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Las diagrammas suivants illustrent la mithode. fc t ; ^ '/ • 3 4 5 6 ^mmmr^'^^^'f^^m ^^^^^"ipi ^•^^■"■BFCHIf^BP^^ip \ i-tpf »■ f «■ *' \ 1 "H . •"«• A . U'Mltp.<,t,- i'liNixli.:! hi.l.H,'i^ii.t xC'.'Jthi.'ri h •:%■!. Lnt.irn . ■IS' .1 4 -m- ♦• 't. w »'• ■^ K ■>J*» "ttC. '^■% J^ \ ,4- ■%Jf^ H ■>■ \- \«*- '?i^- - ■4* V / . ) t "• . * % m 'f ■m ♦ ,v •^• H W 10' #» -► "^r ;.. 0' St^ ♦ • ^. » BAPTAfiT '*» r -r^ Hippah, or Vilif^, buUt on a perf>rated Jto<^ m JVietr Zett/nnd^ •^ . • PUBLISHED BT J.ROBINS * C" ALBIOS POESS, IVY LANE, PATERNOSTER RO«r. #^?*f' *# '■* *^- ^1 i ■ % '^. ** m^-^- ■ ^.' .«r •- ^ *% -¥^ y»:'SBi» i «''»^j .W.- #-^ ''"i*^-: .*►' ■ •';.^. .^ '»«h.. ,,^.> ■♦t- .»;V ^V... • -■ *■ ^^'^i'tfM^^ ' '*^ ■^■^ t **■ ^^■^' i^ hmnn^n*{\) -^ s '•Mt:' %i^ V^. >A '-^•^tt.^ti.- ■4^ mi'ti*' Ht, '«'**»■* \. '*,. \ A.'N ^A\ ♦■.■^■t ^■A- 'S. N *■ fi i ■*- ^ .#,• »»- i V ■g;. >• '*,-. * s *^,"*^ f .*(- ■j(^- * f.y?» ^m^^- ^^^^Lt^gl^^iu^^^gj_. ■^ .Ifc.-. ^■Wpy^HW^a ^ " *"* .- ^; • » T» * #■■ VOYAGES IB©1]JNID WHIB WdDIBILlD ^ h . » PERFORMED BY CAPTAIN JAUES COOK, F.R.S. BT CONTAINING THE WHOLE OF HIS DISCOVERIES '»•" • ti ♦/ si;< IN ..♦ GEOGRAPHY, J^TAVIGATION, ASTRONOMY, ^c. WITH MEMOIRS OF HIS LIFE, ^=^: AMD PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO EIS UNFORTUNATE DEATH. On a far distant, and remorseless shore, Where human fiends their dire libations pour : ' . ) ' Where treachery, hoT'ring o'er the blasted heathy , ' ' . Poises with ghastly smile the darts of death, ; ' Pierc'd by their Tenom'd points, your farorite bleeds, r-. And on his limbs the lust of hunger feeds ! MISS SEWABO'* BLIOy CM OAVTAIM CO<)K< :«, ■ '■ ''■■ ^' mmmwLdiiiQmmisi "WTssm ;as90)Ei^'7its9(S»a« Uonlion: PUBLISHED BY J. ROBINS AND CO. ALBION PRESS, IVY LANE, PATERNOSTER ROW; AND SHERWOOD, NEELY, AND JONES, PATERNOSTER ROW. ■ •■ 1820. '■■2>no ? C-v-A\ h:*i«m,. /o'f ffi. i ^4, r » ^ fl ..^r.>I^O':> ^':Mr;f,i ,f ^^ r ,f ■ r »• ■^ "^T •7'i/;A/>^ »•' ; ,. I '"■ t ) IJ. / ft»^ "-'^ ^>i lyt'. . i S i. • S *. V 'V> .1 .? .s i ■ i -/^ ,1 '\.:a, -iri'.Vi! "f Vt ffT:>'Tt.in^]iw*-.iiifi>W' y H * T.;: i«' i'^ -'^ '...t ^ «l^!|^Mi£r^'>«A. : aJw.'(**»f-viKK«M|iiptr'' V ^P^»*" :•*«.■. >.^^!rwi4' ■^=^-A'V7**^'-- -i U^! t \/,y y ii S A •1 ■^.jyc- li'/. ; ^'.1 "i ,-«> , i» -.; V? i.i' •^-f •'.ijummn" THE .{. ) PREFACE .-'1 ,' i THE great utility and very interesting nature of the important First, Skcond, and Third Voyages and Discoveries of the late Capt. COOK, are acknowledged by all ranks of peo. le ; consequently it might be deemed impertinent here to attempt any encomiums on the arduous _ut exactresearches of this eminent and valuable Navigator, in which discoveries have been made far greater than those of all the other Navigators in the World, from the expedition of Columbus to the present time. Capt. Cook is unquestionably allowed to have been the ablest and most renowned Circumnavigator this or any other country has produced ; and every enlightened nation must deplore his being unfortunately killed by the Savages of the Island of Owhyhee, on the Uth, of February, 1779, when prosecuting his Last Voyage round the Globe. This great man possessed, jn an eminent degree, all the qualifications requisite for his profession and great undertakings. He was cool and deliberate in judging; sagacious in determining ; active in executing ; steady and persevering in enterprizes, vigilant, with unremitting caution ; unsub- dued by labour, difficulties and disappointments; fertile in expeditions ; never wanting presence of mind; always possessing himself of the full use of a sound understanding; mild, just, but exact in discipline. His knowledge, his experience, and his sagacity, rendered him so entirely master of his subject, that the greatest obstacles were surmounted, and the most dangerous navigations becaotc easy, and almost safe, under his direction. He explored the Southern Hemisphere, &c. to a much higher latitude than had ever been reached, and with fewer accidents than frequently befal those who navigate the coasts of Great Britain. By his attention to the welfare of his ship's company, he discovered and introduced a system for the preservation of the health of seamen in long voyages, which has proved wonderfully efficacious : for in his Second Voyage round the World, which continued upwards of three years, he lost only one man by distemper, of one hundred and eighteen persons, of whom his company consisted. The death of this valuable man was a loss to mankind in general ; and particularly to be deplored by every nation that respects useful accomplishments, and honours science. It is still more to be deplored by this country, which may justly boast of having produced a man hitherto unequalled for nautical talents ; and that sorrow is farther aggravated by the reflection, that this country was de- prived of this ornament by the enmity of a people, from whom, indeed, it might have been dreaded, but from whom it was not deserved : for, Capt. Cook frequently interposed, at the hazard of his life, to protect these very people from the sudden resentment of his own injured ship's crew. Let us contemplate, admire, revere, and emulate, this great Navigator; whose skill and labours have enlarged natural philosophy ; have extended nautical science ; and hav disclosed the long con- cealed and admirable arrangements of the Almighty in the formation of this Globe, and at the same time the arrogance of mortals, in presuming to account, by their speculations, for the laws by which he was pleased to create it. It is now discovered, beyond all doubt, that the same great Being who created the universe by his fiat, by the same ordained our earth to keep a just poise, without a cor- responding Southern Continent. The arduous and accurate researches of Capt. Cook have disco- vered Seas unnavigated and unknown before. They have made us acquainted with Islands, people, and productions, of which he had no conception ; and the name of Capt, Cook will be revered. ^i h m PREFACE. while there remains an authentic account of hii three respective Voyages, and as long as Mariners and Geographers shall trace the various courses and discoveries he has made. Among other advantages which must result from the undertakings of this unparallelled Com- mander, it is probable that these Voyages may be the means of spreading, in time, the blessings of civilization amongst the numerous tribes of the South Pacific Ocean, of abolishing their horrid repasts, and their equally horrid rites ; and of laying a foundation for future and more effectual plans, to prepare them for holding aa honourable station amongst the nations of the earth. Other discoveries of new countries have, in general, been with wars, or rather massacres. Nations have no sooner been found out, than they have been extirpated ; ind the horrid cruelties of the conquerors of Mexico and Peru, can never be remembered without blushing for religion and human nature. But when the recesses of the Globe are investigated, not to enlarge private dominion, but to pro- mote general knowledge; when we visit new tribes of our fellow-creatures as ffiends, and wish only to learn that they exist, in order to bring them within the pale of the offices of humanity, and to relieve the wants of their imperfect state of society, by communicating to them our superior attain- ments. Voyages of such discovery, planned with such benevolent views by George the Third, and executed by Capt. Cook, hkve not, we trust, totally failed in this respect. The natives of the South Pacific Ocean comparing themselves with their visitors, cannot but be struck with the deepest conviction of their own inferiority, and be impelled by the strongest motives to strive to emerge from it, and rise nearer to a level with those Britons, who deigned to look upon tbemj and left behind so many specimens of their generous and humane attention. The very introduction of oui useful animals and vegetables, by adding fresh aieans of subsistence, will have added to their com- forts and enjoyments of life. Ij ,) .,. •i ■ : . * SH Ml .- .'-J ii) .: JMi, tl ■J:'!!'!;*** 1. •!•< audi •)hrf)u..i -rui-td !>'•■' 'Jtij :*/«},-: 'M7fr --It: fr ia''>ti-^ '1m ,?nvv:'; t| :it'io t')r-4t ^fi'f •J lilii 7 .r 8i!i->liil ]ft'j!i:^«.n > «isj*'to Iw'i'iq ;^i"*f ot .-ij-f i wl^ % »"»■*: m t t V '•V. ^'■ \1 Ti • ■•<. ./S*W / «•■ N .# f«' ♦ ■#^ :-i- « V.'.'fiX, * 38561 ; it. 1 r If'' 1^ . J^XM ST V •v ^ X)^JA.cilPi. ,^UVttl) ^^clS. — — — — ;— — \ 1 '=*^.T ■ 9 i^ \\ 'i •A \ 1 •' ^'---"' — ii s ^ t^^ > k, ^.- ,0 esse T^^^^^TT/ \ > ■ < 1 ~~~ ..J 1. — - — ^ — M >f^ ^ ^^^ /J r IHA n VJl-.-.-.V*', ^ "'J&' . .^4 —.; - ■ i Z.m..!'™.^. ^ ' //'//rf//y/ //f ^ a///// , f>/- ,//f>f/,t/ o/ /f^/. f/l''^^/ff/f/fM/f4',. :■':» t .s: ^rt*/ .rfO". I f 1.^1 — 1 1 I ■ " y '-"^ I f ♦ FIRST VOYAGE ROUND THB WORLD,'- '-^-sai ' IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP, THE ENDEAVOUR. ;" ! i "... :'.'■''' ",'\.,' ■."■"'. t.V^". ,...,,... .It"*" "i^t'.t f-.Av- ■,Mi:ii ' irfi I-)*? jf '.'I '-.I'vHiittiiii »f?> >• I*-,"'. 7%e Departure of the Endeavour from Plymouth; Her passage to the Island oj Madeira; A description of its natural curiosities and Trade; A particular account of Fnnchiale, the capital of Madeira ; The passage from Madeira to Rio de Janeiro ; An account of this Capital of the Portuguese dominions in South America, and of the circumjacent country { Incidents that happened while the Eudeavow laid in the harbour of Bio de Janeiro. THE Endeavour, a bark of three hun- dred and twenty tons, which had been originally built for the coal trade, was ap- pointed to the service of Capt. Cook's first voyage round the world, having on board ten carriage, and twelve swivel guns. On August 26th 1768, we therefore got under tail, and took our departure from Plymouth. On the 31 st, we saw several of those birds, called by seamen Mother Carey's Chickens, and which they think prognosticate a storm. On the 2nd of Septeniber we saw land be- tween Cape Finisterre, and Cape Ortegal, on the coast of Gallicia in Spam. In this course some marine animals were discover- ed, hitherto unnoticed by naturalists. One of these, described as a new species, is of an. angular form, near three inches in length, and one thick. It has a hollow passage quite through it, and a brown spot at one end. Four of these animals appeared to ad- here together by their sides ; but when put into water, they separated, and swam. about, shining with a< brightness resLmbUng the vivid colour of a gem. We also discovered another animal, exceeding in variety and brightness any thing we had seen ; even in colour and splendour equal to those of an No, h '-•■-• — ^ '■- -.-'- '■ -'■-■'- opal. At the distance of aBout ten leagues- from Cape Finisterre, we caught aipong the rigging of the ship, several bird not descril> ed by Xinnseus. On the 1 2th we discovered Puerto Santo, and Madeira ; andii on the fol- lowing day, moored with the stream anchor in the road of Funchiale. In heaving up the anchor, Mr. Weir, the master's mate« was unfortunately carried overboard and' drowned. Upon approaching theisland of Madeira; from the sea, it appears exceedingly beauti- ful, the sides of the hills being covered with plantations of vines, which are green when all kinds of herbage, except here and there, are burnt up, which was the case at tliis time. On the Idth in the forenoon, the boat came from the officers of health, no one being suf- fered to land from on board a ship without their permission. When this was granted* we landed at Funchiale, the chief town in the island, and proceeded directly to the house of Mr. Cheap, a considerable merchant, and, at that time, the English consul tfiere, who re- ceived us with a brotherly kindness, . and ' treated us with a princely liberality. W* • continued on the i.sland only five days, dm injif. which time the season was the worst ii» ,^?:. M icS vol 4^E T0 T^E SiQV'iH SEAS. i f. 1^ - ih. .1 ' the year for searcmng after natural curiosi- ties *; however, the two gentlemen. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks, pushed th^ir ^Xr cursions about three miles from the town, and collected a few plants in flower, by the^ obli^ng attention oi Dr. Jlieberdenvtlte chi^' physician of the island, i&(n>rothef to Si. Heherden of London. ]M[r. j^anks ti^quif^ after, and found the tree called Laura Inai- e.us, the wood of which he supposes to be what is called the Madeira inahpg^ny, as there is no real mahogany upon the island. The inhabitants of Madeira have no other article of trade than wine, which is made by presising the juice out in a sqiiare wooden vessiel. The size of this is proportioned to the (Quantity of wine ; and the servants hav- ing taken off their stockino;s aiid Jackets* get into it, and with their eTjaows and feet fress out as much of the juice as they can. n like manner the stalks, beiiipg tied toge- ther, are pressed Under a squaire pfece of wood, by a lever vnth a stoae iai^te|i|^d tp the iend of it. . . • During our stay upon this island we saw no wheel-carriages ot any sort, nor have the people any thing that resembles them, ex- cept a hollow Dpai;d, or sledge, upon which those wine vessels are drawnthatare toobig to be carrietl by hand. They have also hor- fics and mules, very proper for their roads, but their wine is, notwithstanding, brought to town from the vine-yards where it is made, in vessels of gdat-skins, which d,re carried by men on their heads. Nature has been very liberal in her gifts to Madeira. Th^ inhabitants are not \vithout ingenuity, but they want industry. The soil is so very rich, and there is such a variety in the climate, that th^re is. scarcely any article cither of t^e necessaries or luxuries of Hfe, which cannot probably be cultivated here. On the hills walnuts, chesnnts, and apples dourish, almost vrithoi,it culture. Pine-ap- ples, mangoes, guanas, and bananas, grow almost spontaneously in the town. They have com which is large grained and fine, nnd it might be produced in plenty ; but for want of bef Jig attended to, all they consume is imported from other countries. Beet, mut- ton, and pork, are remarkably good, and lehe Captain took some of the former on board for his own use. {T^nchiale (which took its name from FoncAo, signifying fennel in the Portuguese language) is situate at the bottom of a bay, smd thupugh it is «]ttensive in proportion to ihe fesi pi th^ i$Kie^d, it is but poorly built, {Lndyie streetward narrow and oadly p^ved. The churches are full of ornaments, with pictures and images of saints ; the first are, for the n^Qst part, wretchedly executed, and the latter are dressed in laced clothes. The taste of the convents, especially of the Fran- cisp^ns^ i|i better ; neatness anu simplicity Being united in most of the designs of the latter. The infirmary also is a piece of good s^rplfiitectvire, ^^ oi^e of the most cpssidera- ble in this pl^e. Jn this oonvent is a^ small c^ape), ^h^ whe. The latter of these is very beau- tlfiil, and would be a great ornament to our gardens. The number of inhabitants iu Madeira 9Jre computed to amount to about eighty thousand ; and the customhouse du- ties produce to the king of Portugal a reve< nue of !^Q,0001 a y^ar, clear of allexpences. But the balance of trade is against the pen- 81e ; for all their money ffoing to Lisbon, le currency of the island is in Spanish. This coin Qonsi^tQth of pistereens, worth about a shilling ; bitts about sixpence, and half bitts worth about.three-pence. I- >>»a- •^'M.mi ^liitZ " AND ROimG THE 1Vt)!lLD. ' h On the 19th of September the EiideaTOur they thte# ont a casting net, iu order to try •sailed from Madeira, and ort the 21st \^e by experiment whether they werp right in saw the islands called the Salvagesj rtofth- theif conjectures. A species of the Medusa ward of the Canaries. The ^ncipal di ttas taken, whith bofe some resemblance to these was abont five leagues to the soifth metallitie Substance greatly heated, and emitted a whitish light ; they caught also Mme crdbi^ wlfich glittered very much ; ani- mals which had not before been taken no- ticc of by Ihfe curious researches into the secf^ts of nature. As proviisions by this time began to grow short, we fes6fved to ^ut into the harbour of Rio de JaCrieito ; and on the 8th of November wesa\V the cbatst of Brazil. Upon speaking #ith the Crew of a Portuguese fishing boat. half west. On the 23rd the pefak of T^ne- riffe bore %test by south half soilth. Its appearance at strtHset was very striking; fot wheit most part of the island appeared of a deep bfeck, the mowntain still reflated' rays, and glowed with, a warmth of colour Which HO pasinting can express. There is no eruf*- tioh of visible fire, but 3 heat issues from the chinks near the top, too strong to be borne by the hand when held near them. Th^ height of this mountain is 16,396 feet, #W tions of the viceroy, remonstrated with him, but the latter would return no other answer, than that the king his master's orders must be obeyed. The Captain, thus repulsed, and much displeased, resolved to go no more on shore, rather tha.n, whenever he did so. to be treated as a prisoner in his own boat ; for the officer, who was so polite as to accom- pany him, constantly attended him, both to and from the shore. Two memorials were now drawn up, and presented to the viceroy, one written by the Captain, and the other by Mr. Banks ; but the answers return- ed were by no means satisfactory. Several papers passed ^between them and the vice- roy to no good purpose, the prohibition still remaining as before ; from whence the Cap- tain thought it necessar", in order to vindicate his own compliance, to urge the viceroy to an act of force in the execution of his orders. For this purpose, he seiit lieutenant Hicks with a i)acket, giving him his order not to admit of a guard in his boat. As this gen- tleman was resolved to obey his Captain's commands, the officer of the guard-boat did not oppose him by force, but acquainted the viceroy with what had happened, on which the lieutenant was sent away with the pack- et unopened. When returned, he found a guard of soldiers placed in the boat, and in- sisted on their quitting it. Whereupon the officer seized the boat's crew, and conducted them under an escort to prison, and the lieu- tenant wa.s seiit back to the ship guarded. "When the Captain was informed of this transaction, he wrote to the . ' eroy to de- mand his boat and her crew, inclosing the memorial which Mr. Hicks his liei^tenant had brought back. These papers he sent by a petty officer, to iivoid continuing the dispute concerning the guard, which must have been kept up by a commissioned offi- An answer was now promised by the cer viceroy ; but before this could arrive, the long-boat, which had four pipes of rum on board, was driven to winavrard, (the rojic # ,..,. i AND ROUND THE WORLD. 01 , -.J, IS •:'!( ;•*« Im on rojie f)reaking that was thrown from the ship,) to- {•ether with a small skiff that was fastened to the boat. Immediate orders were given for manning the j^awl, ;vhich, being dispatched accordingly with proper directions, returned, and brought the people on board the next morning ; from whom Capt. Cook learned, that the long boat having Tilled with water, they had brought her to a granpling, and quitted her, and falling m with a reef of rocks on tlieir return, they were forced to cut the fastening of Mr. lianks's little boat, and send her adrift. The Captain now dis- patched another letter to his excellency, wherein he informed him of the accident, desired he would assist him with a boat to recover his own, and, at the same time, re- newed his demand of the delivery of the pinnace and her crew. The viceroy granted tlie request, but in his answer to the Cap- tain's remonstrance, suggested some doubts that he entertained, whether the Endeavour H as really a king's ship, and also accused the crew of smuggling. Capt. Cook, in his reply, said, that he was willing to shew his (tmimission, adding, if any attempt should be made to carry on a contraband trade, he requested his excellency would order the of- fender to be taken into custody. The dis- pute being thus terminated, Mr.^ Banks at- tempted to elude the vigilance of the guard, which he found means to do, and got safe on shore on the 26th, in the morning. He took care to avoid the town,, and passed the da^ in the fields, where he could best gratify liis curiosity. Mr. Banks found the country people inclined to treat him with civility, and was invited to their habitations. But it was afterwards heard, that search had been making for this gentleman when absent. He and Dr. Solander, therefore, iresolved to run no more risques in ffoing on shore, while they reniained at this place. On the 1st of December, having taking in water and provisions, we got, with leave from the viceroy, a pilot on board, but the wind prevented us from putting to sea. A Spanish packet from Buenos Ayres, bound for Spain, arriving the next day, the Captain of her %vith great politeness offered to take (tiir letters to Europe. The favour was ac- cepted, and Capt. Cook delivered into hb hands a packet tor the secretary of the Admi- ralty, containing copies oi all the papers that had passed between him and the vice- roy, leaving the duplicates with his excel* lency. On the 5th we weighed anchor, and towed down the bay, but were stopped at Santa Cruz, the principal fortification, the order from the viceroy to let us pass, by an unaccountable negligence, not having been sent ; so that it was not till the 7th that we ^ot under sail. When we had passed the fo^t the guard-boat lefl us, anuour pilot was discharged. It was observed, during our stay in this harbour, that the air was filled with butterflies, chiefly of one kind, and the greatest part above our mast-head. Of the town and neighbouring country we shall give the following descnption. Riode Janeiro was probably so called because discovered on the festival of St. Januarius. from whence we may suppose the river Januarius took its nanie, and also the town, which is the capital of the Portu- guese in America. This town is situated on the west side of the river, from which it is extended about three quarters of a mile. The ground whereon it stands is a level plain. It is defended on the north side by a hill, thai extends from the river, having a small plain which contains the suburbs and king's dock. On the south is another hill running towards the mountains which are behind the town. This is neither ill design- ed nor ill built ; the houses in general are of stone, and two stories high ; every house having, after the manner of the Portuguese, a siriall balcony before its windows, and a lattice of wood before the balconyV its cir- cuit is about three miles ; and it appears to be equal in size to the largest country towns in England. The streets are strai^lit, and • of a convenient breadth, intersecting each other at right angles ; the greater part, how- ever, lie in a line with the citadel, called • St. Sebastian, which stands on the top of a hill that commands the town, l^e princi- pal street is near 100 feet in width, and ex- tends from St. Benedict to the foot of Castle-hill. The other streets are common ly twenty or thirty feet wide. The hou stf • A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS. tH !,1 i a^ioiiif&f to the |>rnicipal street are three sto- ries hiffh, but in other places they are very irregular, thott<>h built after the same man- ner as at Lisbon. Water is ccmveyed to a fountain in the great square, from an aaue- duct., raised upon two stories of arches. The wattratthis fountain, however^ is so bad, that we could not drmk it with pleasure. The churehes are richly ornamented, and there is more religio«is parade in this place tiban in any of the popish countries in Eu- rope. Not a day passes without a proces- sion of some parish, with various insignia, splendid and costly in the highest degree. But the inhabitants may ps^ their devo- tions at the shrine of any saint, without wait- ing for a procession ; tor a small cupboard, having- a glass window, and in which is one of these tutelary gods, is pbced before almost everjr house, andf a lamp is kept constantly burning, lest the old proverb should be ve- rified, "Out of sight, out of mind." Before these saints the people pray and sing with such vehemence, that in the night they were distinctly heard by our sailors on board the shioi In this town are four convents, the first is that of the Benedictines, situated near itp northern extremity : the structure affords an agreeable prospect, and contains an ele- gant chapel, ornamented with several va- luable paintingsv The second is that of the Gannefites, which fomis the centre angle of the royal square, and fronts the harbour ; its church was rebuilding in a very elegant manner, with fine fi'ee stone, brought thi- ther from Lisbon. The third is that of »St. Anthony, situated on the top of a hill, on the south side of the town ; before this convent stands a large bason of brown gra- nite, in the form of a parallelogram, which is employed in washing. The fourth is si- tuated at the eastern extremity of the town, and was formerly the Jesuits convent, but is now converted into a military hospital. In the ri^ht angle of the royal square stands the viceroy's palace ; this, with the mint, stables, goal, &c. compose one large building, which has two stories, and is 90 it^t from the water. In passing through t'iie palace, the first ent'tmce is to a large 6 hall or ffnard-room, to which there if an > ascent oAhree or four steps. In the guard- room are stationed the viceroy's body-guards* who are relieved every morning between eight and nine ; and aqjoinin^ to the hall are the stables, the prison being in the back part of the building. Within the guard-, room is a flight of stairs for ascending to the upper story, which divides at a landing-place about half way, and forms two branches, one leading^ to the right and the other to the left. The former leads to a saloon, where there are two officers m constant attend- ance ; the viceroy's aid-de-camp at the ^^ame time waiting in tne anti-chamber to receive messages and deliver orders. The left win^ of the royal square is an irregular building, which consists chiefly of shoi>s, occupied by trading people. In the centre of this square is the founUun, of which we have made mention, as being supplied with water firom a spring at the distance of three milet , from which it is brought by aa aqueduct. The place is continually^ crowded with negroes of^both sexes waiting to fill their jars. At the comer of every street is an altar. The market-jilace extends from the north-east end of the square along the shore, and this situation is very convenient for the fishing-boatsj and those who bring vegetables from the other side of the river to market. Negroes are almost the only peo- ple who sell the different commodities ex- {>osed in the market, and they employ their eisure time in spinning cotton. The form of government is in its constitu- tion mixed, but in fact very despotic ; the viceroy and civil magistkute of the town fre- quently committing persons to prison, or transporting them to Lisbon, at their own pleasure. In order to prevent the people from making excursions into the country, in search after gold and diamonds, certain bounds are prescribed' them, sometimes at a few, and sometimes at many miles distance from the town ; and if a man is taken up by the guard without the boundi^, where they constantly patrole, he is immediately sent to prison. The inhabitants ofRio dfc Janeiro are ex- ceedinp^ numeroosj and conrist of Portnguese» >*f '•W "t" |^» AND ROUND THE WORLD. 4 er ta peo- ;s ex- thcir wtitu- the fre- )n, or own people pntry, jrtain h at a kance )n up they ;ntto recx- iese» Nei?ro€s. and Indians vvhich laj»t were the intervening^ houses. ITiree or four hundred ori{pniil natives of the country. The town- yards within the Jesuits college, stands a ship of Rio is but a small part of the Capi- vei-y high castle, but it is falling to decay. e; yet is said to contain The bishop's palace is about three hundre?! tanea or province ; yet 37,000 white peoplr^ and 629.000 blacks, many of whont ^re free, making togetlier 666,000, in the proportion of 1 7 to 1 . trie military is composed of twelve regi- ments of regular troops, six being Portu» guese, and six Creoles, and twelve regiments of provincial militia. The inhabitants are yards behind the Benedictine convent, and contiguous to it is a magazine of arms, sur- rounded by a ciimpart. The inhabitants of Rio de Janeiro main- tain a whale-fishery, which supplies them with lamp oil. 1'hey import brandy froirt the Azores, and their slaves and East Iii- servilely submissive to the regulars, and it dia goods from their settlements in Africs^, has been said, that 5f any of them should their wine from Madeira, and their Emth omit the compliment of taking oft* his hat, pean goods from Lisbon. The current coin when he meets an oflicer» he would be im- is Portuf^ese, which is struck her^ * the mediately knocked down. But tfie subor- silver, pieces are called petacks, of dif- dination of the officers tp the vicerov is ferent value; and the copper are five and equally mortifying, for they are obligea to ten ree pieces. This place is very "useful wait three times every day to know, or for ships that are in want of refreshment. receive his commands : the answer frc is, " there is nothing new." tio de Janeiro the gentry keep their chaises, which are drawn by mules ; the ladies however use a sedan chair, boarded before and behind, with curtains on each side, which is carried by two negroes on a They water, as we have before observed, at the fountain in the great scjuare, but the water is not good. We landed our casks on a smooth sandy bearh, which is not more than a hundred yards distant fn>m the fountain, and upon application to the viceroy, a centinel is appointed to look poli^coiinectedwiththetopof the cliair by af^r, them. The harbour is safe and com- two rods, coming from unaer its bottom, one modious, and distinguished by a remarka-« on each side, and resting to tibe top. The ble htlK in the shapeof a cone, at the west apothecaries' shops commpniy serve the pur- point of the bay. The entrance is not poses of coftee.houses. as the people meet in ^vide, but it is easy, from the sea-breeze them to drink capillaire, andTplay at back- which |»revails fromt noon to sun-set, for gammon. When the gentry are seen abroad, any ship to enter before the wind. The they are well dressed, though at home but entrance of the narrow part is defended by loosely covered. The shopkeepers have f^vo forts. La Cruz, and Lozia; they are generally short hair, and wear linen jackets about three quarters of a mile from eaoh with sleeves. T\ie women in general, as in otiier. ITie (>ottom being rocky, renders it most of the Portuguese and Spanish settle- dangerous to anchor there, but to avoid it, ments in South America, are more ready ships must keep in the mid-channel. The to grant amorous favours than those of any coast abounds with a varietj' offish, anions other civilized parts of the world. As soon which are dolphins and mackarel. PVovi- as the evening began, females appeared at sions, except wheaten bread and flour, are the windows on every side, who distinguish- easily procured. Yams and cassada are in ed such of the men as best pleased their faji- plenty. Beef, both fresh and jerked, may aes, by throwing down nosegays : and Dr. "e >H»ii«ht at two-pence farthing a pound, Solander and two other gentlemen received bnt it is very lean. The people jerk their so many of these love tokens, that thay beef, by taking out the bones, and cutSntr threw them away by hatfuls. it into hrffe but thin slices. They then Without the Jesuits college on the shore, cwre it with salt, and dry it in the shade IS a village called NeustraSeigniradel Gloria, It eats very well, and if kept dry, will re. which is johied to the town by a very few "™»''* SO"^ along time at sea. Af utton i« 7 «■( VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, scarcely to be procured. Hogs and poul- the soil is loose and sandy, but farther from try are dear. Garden-stuff and fruit are in abundance, but the pumj^in only can be preserved at -sea. Tobacco also is cheap, though not good. Rum, sugar, and nio> lasses are all excellent, and to be had at reasonable prices. The climate of Rio de Janeiro is heal- thy, and free from most of those inconve- nien'cies incident to tropical countries. The air L seldom immoderately hot, as the sea brejze is generally succeeded by a land wind. The seasons are divided into dry and rainy, though their commencement of late has been irregular and uncertain, for the latter had iailed for near four years the river it is a fine black 'mould. It pro- duces all the tropical fruits in great i>Ienty« and without much cultivation; a circum- stance exceedingly agreeable to the inhabi- tants, who are very mdolent. The mines* which lie far up in the country, are very rich. Their situation is carefully concealedL and no. one can view them, except those coneenied in working and guarding them. About twelve months before our arrival, the government had detected several jewellers m carrying on an illicit trade for diamond:^ with slaves in the mines ; and immediately afteiwards a law passed, making it felony to work at the trade, or to have any tools fit preceding our arrival ; but at this time the tor it in possession^ the civel officers having rain Iftwl just began, and fell in heavy show- indiscriminately seized on all that could be ers during our stay : formerly the streets found. Near ^.000 negroes are annually have been overflowed by the rain, and ren- imported to dig in the mines, so pernicious dered impassable vritli canoes. to the human frame are those works. In The adjacent country is mountainous, 1776, 20,000 more were draughted from the and chiefly covered with wood, a small part the town to supply the deficiency of the for< of it (Mily being cultivated Near the town mer number. * "•"',;. » • i t f. .(••(•> A i (I ,-. .7 '■"}■' ' ■ \r Mn I, •i'l - CHAP. II. :f Hi •' '»!;' tj' iV) f('i n-j.i '^n» 'v .•■■V'.i:f|. Tl^e departure of the tSndeavour jrom Rio ae Janeiro ; Her passage to the entrance oj the Streight oJ'LeMaire; The inhabitants of Terra del Puego described ; Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander ^' ascend a mountain in search of plants; An account (^ what happened to them in this excursion; T/ie Endeavour passes through the Streight Le Maire; An account of her passage, and a further description of the inliabitants of Terra del Fuego, and its productions ; Remarks respecting the south east part of Terra del Fuego, and the Streight of Le Maire ; Directions for the passage- westward round this part of America, into tlie South Seas ; The passage of the Endeavour from Cape . Horn to the newly discovered islands; An account of their ^gure and appearance; The "^inhabitants described, with a narrative of the various incidents during the course, and on the JISndeavour*s arrival among them. y i i: I.S, ! ON the 8tli of December, having procu- red all necessary supplies, we took our departure from Rio de Janeiro ; and on the. 9th an aniazing number of atoms were taken out of the sea. These were of a yel- lowish colour, and few of them were more than the fifth ))art of an inch long; nor »x>uld the best microscope on board the En- 8 deavour discover whether they belonged to the vegetable or animal creation. The sea was tinged in such a manner with these equivocal substances, as to exhibit broad streaks of a similar colour, for near the space of a mile in length, and for several hunared yards in breadth. Whence they came, or for what designed, neither Mr. Banks nor Dr, 3e "'"'"nr i/«iii^iii I pwvp-np< K-'iiiPiip AND ROUND THE WORLD. on ■irii. Solander could determine. Perhaps thejr might be the impawn of some marine animal, unknown to either ancient or modem {riii- losophers. , On the 11th we hooked a shark. It proved to be a female. When opened we took six young ones out of it, five of which were alive, and swam u.iskly in a tub of water, but tlie sixtti appeared to have been dead some time. From Uiis time we met witih no material occurrence till the 22nd, wlien we discovered numerous birds of tlie prosillaria kind, in latitude 39 deg. 37 min. south, and longitude 49 deg. 16 min. west : we also discovered great numbers of por- noises of a singular species, about 15 feet in length, and ofan ash colour. On the 23rd we observed an eclipse of the moon ; and about seven o'clock in the morning, a imiall white cloud appeared in the w^ from which a train ofnre issued, extending itself westward : about two minutes after we heard two distinct loud^ explosions, immediately succeeding each other, like those of cannon, after which the cloud disappeared. On the 24th we caught a large loggerhead tortoise, weighing one hundred and fifty pounds. We likewise shot several birds, one an albe- tross, which measured between the tips of its \(^ings nine feet and ^ inch, and finom its beak to the tail two feR one inch and an iialf On the SOth we ran upwards of fifty leagues, through vast numbers of land in- sects, some in the air, and others upon the water ; they appeared to resemble exactlv the flies that are seen in England, though they were thirty leagues from land, and some of these insects are known not to quit it beyond three yards. At this time we judged ourselves to be nearly opposite to the bay called Sans Fond (without bottom) where it is supposed by some writers, that Uie continent of America is divided by a pa»- sage : but it was the ojiinion of our circum- navigators, that there mi' cht be a large river, which probably had occasioned an inun- dation. On the 31st we had much thunder, liehtning and rain. This dav and the thr«e following, we saw several whales j likewise ft number of birds about the size of a pigeon* with white bellies and grey beaks. C On the 3rd of January we saw the appear^ ance of land, in latitude 47 deg. 17 min. south, and longitude 61 deg. 29 min. 45 sea west, which we mistook for Pepv's island. In appearance it SO much resemoled landr that we bore awsnr for it ; and it was near two hours and an tialf before we were con- vinced, that it was one of those decepti^ont which sailors call a Fog-bank. At this time our seamen beginning to cMnplain of cold» thev were furnished with a pair of trx>users, ana a Magellanic Jacket, made of a thick woollen stuff callea Fearnought. On the 11th after having passed Faulkland's Island, we saw the coast of Terra del Fuego, at the distance of about four leagues from the west to south-«ast by south. As we ranged along the shore to the south-east, smoke was per- ceived, made probably by the natives as a agnal, for it was not to be seen after we had passed by. On the 14th we entered the streight of Le Maire, but were afterwards driven out a^ain with such violence, (the tide being against us) that the ship's bow-sprit was frequently under water. At length however, we got anchorage in a small cove, on the east of Cape St. Vincent, the entmnce to which our Captain named St. Vincent's Bay. The weeds which grow here upon rocky ground are very remarkable, they appear above the surface in eight and nine fathoms water. The leaves are four feet in length, and many of the stalks, though not more than an inch and a half in circumference, above one hun* dred. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks went on shore, where having continued four hours, they returned about, nine in the evening, with upwards of an hundred different plan^ and flowers, of which none of the European botanists had taken any notice near this nay. The country in general was flat, and the hot* tom, in particular, was a grassy plain. Here was plenty of wood, water, and fowl; and winter bark was found in gpreat plenty. The trees appeared to be a species of the birch, but neither large nor lofty. The wood was white, and they bore a small leaf. White and red cranberries were found in these parts* Op th« 13tb we «{un6 t» a» aachiH: i* 10 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ■ I ^ U tweWe fathom water, upon coral rocks, be- fore a small cove, at the distance of about a mile from the shore. At this time two of the natives came down upcn the beach, as if they exi)ected that the strangers would land ; but as there was no shelter here, the ship was Sot under sail acrain, and tiie Indians retired isajipointed. The same afternoon about two oxiock, we came into the bay of Good 8uccess, and the vessel coming to an anchor, the Captain went on shore, accompanied by Mr. mnks and Dr. Solander, ni order to ^arch for a watering place, and discourse with the Indians. These ffcntlemen had not proceeded above one hundred yards before the Captain, when two of the Indians that had /leated themselves, rose up and threw away the small sticks which they held in their hands, as a token of amity. They afterwards retufhed to their companions, who had remained at some distance behind them and made signs to their guests to advance, whom they received in a friendly though uncouth manner. In return, for their civility, some ribbands and beads were distributed among them. Thus a sort of mutual confidence was established, and the rest of the English joined the party, the Indians conversing with them in their way, in an amicable manner. Capt. Cook and his friends took three of them to the ship, dressed them in jackets, and gave them bread and other provisions, part of which they carried on shore with them ; but they refrised to drink rum or brandy, making signs that it burned their throats, as their proper drink was water. One of these peo- Ele made several long and loud speecnes, ut no part of them was intelligible to any of us. Another stole the covering of a globe which he concealed under his garment that was made of skin. After having remained on board about two hours, they returned on shore, Mr. Banks accompanying them. He conducted them to their companions, who •eemed no way curious to know what their friends had seen, and the latter were as little disposed to relate as the former were to in- giure. None of these people exceeded five feet ten inches in height, but their bodies appeared large and robust, though tlieir limbs were small. They had broad flai faces, high cheeks, noses inclining to fiat- ness, wide nostrils, small black eyes, iarge months, small, but indifferent teeth, and straight black hair, falling down over their ears and foreheads, the latter being g^enerally smeared with brown and red ' paints, and like all the original natives of America, they were beardless. Their garments were the skin& of seals and guanicoes, which tliey wrapped round their shoulders. The men likewise wore on their heads a bunch of yam, which fell over their foreheads, and was tied behind with the sinews or tendons of some animals. Many of both sexes were painted on different parts of their bodies with red, white, and brown colours, and had also three or four perpendicular lines pricked across their cheeks and noses. .The women had a small string tied round each ancle, and each wore a flap c^skin fastened round the middle. They carried their children upon their backs, and were generally em- ployed in dom&stic labour and drudgery. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, attended by their servants, set out from the ship on the 16th, with a design of going into the counti^ as far as they could that day, and returning in the evening. Having entered a wood, they ascended a hill, through a path 1 ess wilderness till the afternoon. After they iiad reiiched what they took for a plain, they were greatly disappointed to find it a swamp, covered with birch, the bushes in- terwoven, and so inflexible that they could not be divided : however, as they were not above three feet high, they stepped over them, but were up to the ancles m boggy ground. The morning had been very fine, but now the weather became cold and dis- agreeable ; the blasts of wind were very pierc- ing, and the snow fell thick ; nevertheless they pursued their route in hope of finding a better road. Before they had got over the swamp, an accident happened that greatly disconcerted them : Mr. Buchan, one of the draughtsmen, whom Mr. B^^nks had taken with him, fell into a fit. .It wa.s absolutely necessary to stop and kindle a fire, and snoli as were fatigued remained to assist him : but Mr. BankSjDr. Solander, and Mr. Monkhoiisif V>JIP«. NIPF • ■ ' AND IIOITND THE WORLD. n irroceeded, and attained the spot they had in view, where they found a great vari- ety ofjilants that gratified their curiosity and repaid their toil. On retuming to the com- |»any amidst the snow which now fell in great abundance, they found Mr. Buchan much recovered. They had previously sent Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Green back to him and tho^^e that remained with Iiim, in order to brin«? them to a hill which was con. lectured to he in a better track for returnr ing to the wood, and which was accordingly fixed on as a place of rendezvous. They resolved from this hill to pa.ss through the swamp, which this wav did not appear to be more than half a mile in extent, into the covert of the wood, in which they pro- posed building a hut, and kindlinj^ a fire to defend themselves from the severity of the weather. Accordingly, the whole party met at the place appointed, about eight in the evening, whilst it was still day-light, and proceecled towards the next valley. Dr. Solander, having often passed over mountains in cold countries, was sensible, that extreme cold when joined with fatigue, occasions a drowsiness that is not easily re-- fisted ; he therefore intreated his friends to keep in motion, however disagreeable it might be to them. His words were. Who- ever sits down will sleet), and whoever sleeps will wake no more. Every one seemed ac- cordingly armed with resolution ; but, on a sudden, the cold became so very intense as to threaten the most dreadful effects. It was now v€ry remarkable, that the Doctor himself, who had so foFi^cibly admonished and alarmed his party, was the first that in- sisted to be suffered to repose. In spite of the most earnest intreaties of his friends, he lay down amidst the snow, and it was with diflicultv that they kept him awake. One of the black servants also became weak and faint, and was on the point of following this bad example. Mr. Buchan was therefore detached with a party to make a fire at the first commodious spot they could find. Mr. Banks and four more remained with the Doctor and Richmond the black, who with the utmost difficulty were persuaded to come on ; and, when they had traversed the gre^t- ■:^,- '^\ ^ r d ■ >.--^" '■■ - • est part of the swamp, they ex'iiressed their inability of going an^ farther. When the black was told that it he remained there he would soon be frozen to death, his repiv was, ITiat he was so much exhausted witli fatigue, that death would be a relief to him. Dr. Solander said he was not unwilling to go, but that he must first take some sleep, still persisting in acting contrary to the opi- nion which he himself- had delivered to tlie company. Thus resolved, they i3oth sat down, supported by some bushes, and in a short time fell asleep. Intelligence now came from the advanced party, that a fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile far- ther on the way. Mr. Banks then awaken* ed the Doctor who had already almost lost the use of his limbs, though it was but a few minutes since he sat down ; nerveiiheless* he consented to go on, but every meajsure taken to relieve the black proved ineffec- tual. He remained motionless, and they were obliged to leave him to the care of a sailor, and the other black servant, who appeared to be the least hurt by the cold, and they were to be relieved as soon as two others were sufficiently warmed to fill their places. The Doctor, with much difficulty, was got to the fire ; and as to those who were sent to relieve the companions of Richmond, they returned without having been able to find them. What rendered the mortifica- tion still greater was, that a bottle of rum (Ihe whole stock of tlie party) could not be four ., and was judged to have been lefl with one of the three that were missing. A fall of snow continuing for near two hours, there now remained no hopes of seeing the three absent persons again. At t>velve o'clock, however, a great shouting was heard at a disbmce, which gave inex- Sressible satisfaction to every one jjresent. Ir. Banks and four others vy^ent forward and met the ssulor, who had just strength enough left to walk. He was immediately sent to the fire, and they proceeded to seek for the other two. They found Richmond upon his legs, but incapable of moving them; the other black was lying senseless upon the ground. All endeavours to bring them t9 tih^ fire were fruitless ; uor was it posRibl* !■ i» VOTAOE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, i V to kindle one upon tfie spot on account of the snow that had fallen, and was falling, so that there remained no alternative, and thty were compelled to leave the two unfortunate negi'oes to thqr fate, after they had made Uiem a bed ofthe boughs of some trees, and covered them over thick with the same. As all hands had been emploved in endeavour- ing to move these })oor blacks to the fire, and hail been exposed to the cold for near an hour and a half in the attempt, some of them began to be afflicted m the same man- ner as those whom they were to relieve. Briscoe, another servant of Mr. lianks, in 1>articular, began to lose his sensibility. At astthey reached the fire, and passed the niglit in a very disagreeable manner. The party that set out from the ship had consisted of twelve ; two of thes^ were al- ready judged to be dead, it was donbtiiil whether the third would be able to return on board, and Mr. Buchan, a fourth, seemed to be threatened with a return of his fits. Tlie ship they reckoned to be at the distance of a long day's journey, through an unfre- quented wood, in which they might proba- bly be bewildered till ni^ht, and, having been equipped only for a journey of a few hours, they had not a sufficiency of provi- sions left to afford the company a single meal. At day-break on the 17th nothing present- ed itself to the view all around but snow» which covered alike the trees and the ground: and the blasts of wind were so frequent and riolent, that their iourney seemed to be ren- dered impracticable, and they had reason to dread perishing with cold and famine. How- ever, aoout six in the morning, they were flattered with a dawn of hope of being de- livered, by discovering the sun through the clouds, which gradually diminished. Be- fore their setting out, messengers were dis- patched to the unhappy negroes ; but these returned with the melancholy .isws of their death. Though the sky had flattered the hopes of the survivors, the snow continued falling very fast, a circumstance which im- peded their journey, but a breeze springing up about eight o'clock, added to the influ- ence ofthe sun, began to clear th« air, aiul 4 the snow falling in lar^e flakes, from the tree.s, gave tokens of a ftiuw. Huncer pre- vailing over everv oflier ronsideration. in« duced our travellers to divide the small remuindor of their pro!r^ions, and to set (or* ward on their joiuney iil>ont ten in the inoming To their ;;T*:at iistonishment and satisfaction, in ohout tiiree hours they found themselves on the ' hore, and much nearer to the ship than th- ;: ni.ist sanguine exoec- tations could have suggested. When they looked back upon theii* former route from the sea, thev found that instead of ascend- ing the hill in a direct line, they hitd made a circle almost round the country. On their return, these wanderers received such congrn- tulations from those on board, a<; can more easily be imagined than xpressed. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went oo shore again on the 20th of this month, landing in the bottom of the buy, where they collected a number of shells and plant.s, hitherto unknown. After having returned to dinner, they went to visit an Indian town, about two miles up the country, the access to which, on account ofthe mud, was difii* cult. When they approached the town, two ofthe natives came out to meet them, who began to shout in their usual manner. They afterwards conducted Mr. Banks and the Doctor to their town. It was situate on a small hill, over-shaded with wood, and con- sisted of about a dozen huts, constructed without art or regularity. They were com- posed of a few poles, inclining to each other m the shape of a sugar-loaf, which were covered on the weather side with grass and boughs, and on the other side a sjiace was left open, wliich served at once for a fire- place and a door. Iliey were of the same nature ofthe huts that had been seen at St, Vincent's Bay. A little gra'^s served for beds and chairs, and their utensils were a basket for the hand, a satchel to hang upon the back, and a bladder for water, out of which they drank through a hole near the top. This town was inhabited by a tribe of about fifty men, women and children. Their bows and arrows were constructed with neatness and ingenuity, being made of wood highljf polished, aod the point, which was eit|ier hi !^ ^-"i ^ ^j^- "^^^^yr^t y.5 ' ;?>-^; -r^T^r* "■: '^^o'^- •■T^f^. ■:.-^^'%»'-^ ^ ■. „*-V -^'.3 t>' :,iS£^^ ;f* k« ■*•. Si: iy ^?.. ^ .-|t-\' '•'4' _-.^' V*-- ■t«f t-«/articularly visi- ble in providing in diii'erent climates dit- %rent food and nourishment, suitable to his nature, wants, and necessities. On Sunday, Jan. 22nd, having got in our Wood and water, we sailed out of the bay, and continued our course through the Streight; and in passing this, notwithstanding the description which some voyagers have given of Terra del Fuego, we did riot find that it had, agreeable" to their representa- tions, such a forbidding aspect. On the con- trary, we found the sea coasts and the sides of tlie hills clothed with verdure. Indeed the summits of the hills were barren, but the valleys appeared rich, and a brook was gene- rally found sit the foot of almost every hill; and though the water hatl a reddish tinge, yet it was fur from being ill tasted Upon the whole, it was the best we took on board during out voyage. Nine miles westward of Cape St. Diego, the low point that forms the north entrance of the Streiuht of Le Maine, are three hills called the Three Bro- thers ; and on Terra del Fuego is another hill, in the form of a sugar-loaf, which stands on the west side, not far from the sea. We had not thatditticulty mentioned in the his- tory of Lord Anson's voyage, in finding where the streight of Le Maire lies. No ship can well miss the streijjht that keeps Terra del Fuego in sight, for it will then be easily discovered ; and Staten island, which lies on the east side, will be still more plainly jperceived, for there is no land on Terra del Fuego like it. And let it be iuither parti- cularly observed, that the entrance of the sstreight p^^ould be attempted only with a fair wind, when the weather too is moderate, and likewise, uf»on the Iwginningof thetide of flood, which here falls out upon the full ciinl change of the moon, about one or two o'clock ; let it also be remendiered, to keep as near the shore of Terra del Fuego as the winds will permit. The streight of Le Maire is bounded on the west by Terra del Fuego, and on the east by the" west end of Staten island, and is nearly five leagues in length, nor less in breadth. The bay of Good Success is seated about the middle of it, on the side of '^Ferra del Fuego, which presents itself at tlie en- trance of the streight from the northward ; and the south end of it may be distinguished by a land-mark, resembling a road from the sea to the country. It affords good anchor- age, and plenty of wood and water. Staten land did not apjwar to Capt: Cook in tlie same manner as it did to Commodore Anson. That horror and wildness, mentioned by the Commodore, were not observed by our gen- tlemen ; on the contrary, the land appeared to be neither destitute of wood nor verdure, nor was it covered with .snow; and on tlie north side Me saw the appearances of bays and harbours. It is probable, that the .sea- son of the year and other circumstances might concur to occasion such diflTerent represen- tations of a land, which all our circuuinavi- g-ators must own to be unfriendly and dis- agreeably situated. On the west side of the Cape of Good, Success whereby is formeii»Aest, in our opinion, to go round Staten land. In any case, however, we can- not approve of running into the latitude of 61 o.' 62, belore any attempt is made to stand to the westward. March the 1st, we found ourselves, both by observation and the log, in latitude 3g deg. 44 mm. south, and 110 deg. 33 min. west longitude, a concurrence very singular in a run of 660 leagues; and which proved, that no current had effected the .ship in hei course, and it was likewise concluded, that we had not come near land of any considera- ble extent ; for currents are always found at no great distance from the .shore. Mr. Banks killed above sixty birds in one day; also two forest flies, such as had never yet been described ; he also found a cuttle-fish of a species different from those generally knowi? in Europe. This fish had a double row of talons, resembling those of a cat, which it could put forth or withdraw at pleasure. When dressed it made excellent soup. On the 24th, our latitude was 22 deg. 11 min. south, and 127 deg. oo min. west longitude. On the 25th, a young marine about twenty, threw himself overboard, on account of a quarrel about a piece of seal .skin, which he took by way of frolic ; but being charged with it as a theft, he took the accusation so much to heart, that in the dusk of the evening he threw himself into tlte sea, and was drowned. On the 4th of April, about 10 o'clock, A. M. Peter Briscoe, servant to Mr. Banks, discovered land to the south, at the distance of about three or four leagues. Capt. Cook ijnmediately gave orders to haul for it, when we found an island of an ova- form, having a lagoon or lake in the centre, that extended over the j^reater part of it. The surrounding border of land was low and narrow in many places, especially towards the south, where tlie beach consisted of a reef of rocks. Three places on the north side had the same ajv pearance, so that in the whole the land seemed to resemble several woody islands. To tbe west was at large clump of iree», aiuJ 16 V0VAG15 TO THE SOUTH SEAS, 'I hk V m in the centre t^Vo cocoa-nut trees. When within a mile of the north side, though we cast out a line, no bottom could be found at 130 fathom, nor any good anchorai2:e. This island was covered with trees, but we could discern no other species than the palm and the cocoa-nut. Several of the natives were discovered on shore; they appeared to be tall, with heads remarkable large, which probably some bandage might have increas- ed- l"lieir complexion was of the copj)er colour, and their hair was black. Some ()f these people were seen abreast of the ship, holding poles or pikes of tvdce their own height. They ai)peared also naked, but when they retired, on the ship's passing by the islands, they put on a light-coloured covering. Some clumps of palm-trees serv- ed them for habitations, which at a distance appeared like hilly ground, and the view of the groves was a very agreeable one. Our Captain called this place Lagoon Island. It lay in 18 degrees south latitude, and 139 west longitude. In the afternoon we again saw land to the north-west, by sun-set we reached it, when it appeared to be a low island of a circular form, and about a mile in circumference. The land was covered with verdure of various kinds, but no inhabi- tints were visible, nor any cocoa-nut trees. This island is distant from that of Lagoon about seven leagues north, and 62 west, which our gentlemen on board named Thumb Can. On the 5tn, we continued our course with a favourable wind, and about three o'clock discovered land to the westward. It was low, in form resembling a bow, and in cir- cumference seemed to be ten or twelve leagues. Its length is about three or four leagues, and its width about two hundred yaitls. The beach was flat, and seemed to nave no other herbage upon it than sea- weeds. The resemblance of a bow was I)reserved in the arch and cord forming the and, while the intermediate space was taken up by water . The arch, in general. Was covered with trees of various verdure and different heights. This island, from the smoke that was discovered, appeared to be inhabited, and we gave it the name of liuw Island. 8 On the 6th, about noon, we again .saw land to the west, and at three o'clock we came up with it. This land seemed to be divided into two parts, or rather a collection of islands, ( to which we gave the name of the Groups) to the extent of about nine leagues. The two largest were divided Irom the others by a streight, the breadth of which was about half a mile. Some of these islands were ten miles or more in length, but appeared like long narrow string^s of land, not anove a quarter of a mile m breadth, but they produced trees, however, of different kinds, among which was the' cocoa-nut tree. Several of the inhabitants came out in their canoes, and two of them shewed an intention of coming on board ; but these like the rest, stopped at the reef. From the observations made, these people appeared to be about our size, and well made. Their complexion was brown, and they were naked. In general, they had two weapons, one was a long pole^, spear-pointed, and the other resembled a paddle. Several of their canoes were constructed in such a manner as not to carry more than three per- sons ; others were fitted up for six or seven ; and one of these boats hoisted a sail, which was converted intoan awningwhen a shower of rain fell. Captain Cook would not stay for any of them, neither could we deter- mine, whether the signals made were meant for defiance, or for invitation ; one party waving their hats, and another answering by shouting. In this respect it was not judged grudent to try the experiment, in order to e convinced, as the island appeared of no importance, and the crew not beingin want of any thing it could produce, xhis cu- riosity was therefore laid aside, in expecta- tion of soon discovering the island, where we had been directed to make our astrono- mical observations ; the natives of which, it wtis reasonable to conjecture, would make no resistance, having already experienced the danger of opposing an European force. On the 7th, we discovered another island* judged to be m compass .thout five miles, being very low, and Iiaving a piece of water in the centre. It appeared to abound in wood, and to be covered with verdure, but we sav no inhabitants upon it. It was i AND ROUND THE WORLD. 17 aw land ;ame up dividea ction of lame of lut nine divided breadth Some of more in tv strings mile in lowever, was the' labitants of them I board ; tlie reef, e people ind well )wn, and f had two -pointed, Several 1 such a three per- or seven ; lil, which a shower i not stay ve deter- ;re meant le party vering by ot judged order to id of no gin want This cu- expecta- id, where r astrono- which, it dd make )erienced force, r island, ve miles, of water bound in dure, but It was named Bird Island, from the number of birds that were seen flying about. This lies in latitude 17deg. 48 min. south, and 143 deg. 35 min. west longitude; distant ten le.ii^ues, in the tlirection west, half north from the west end of the Groups. islands, of an oval figure, and consisted of coral and sand, with a few clumps of small trees, and in the middle of it was a lagoon. On account of its appearance, it was called Chain Island. On the 10th, after a tempestuous night. On tiie 8tli, in the afternoon, we saw land we came in sight of Osnaburgh Island, call- to the northward, and came abreast of it in ed by the natives Maitea. This Island is the evening at about five miles distance, circular, about four miles in circumference, Tljis land seemed to be a chain of low partly rocky, and partly covered with trees. CHAP. III. 77ie Endeavour arrives at Olaheite, or George the Third's Island; Rules established by Capt. Cook for conducting a trade with the natives; An account of several incidents during his stay in this island; An observatory and fort erected; Excursions into the woods; Visits from several of the chiefs; The music of the natives, and their manner of burying their dead, described. Other excursions and incidmts, both on board and on shore ; First interview with Oberea, the supposed Queen of the island; The fort described ; The quadrant stolen, and the consequences. A visit to Tootahah, ok Indian chiej ; A wrestling match described ; European seeds are sown ; The indians give our people names. o kN the 11th we made Otaheite, or as Capt. Wallis had named it, King George the Third's Island. The calms pre- vented our approaching it till the morning of the r2th, when a breeze sprung up, and several canoes were seen making towards the ship. Few of them, however, would come near, and those who did could not be pe:- suaded to come on board. They had brought with them young plantains and branches of trees, w hich were handed up the ship's side, and by their desire, were struck in conspicuous parts of the rigging, as tokens of i)eace and friendship. We then purchas- ed their commodities, consisting of cocoa- nuts, bananas, bread-fruit, apples and figs, whirii were very acceptable to the crew. On the evening of the same day we opened the north-west point of the isle, to which the Dolphin's people had given the name of Vork Island. We lay off and on all night, and in the morning of the 13th we entered Pyi t Royal Harbour, in the Island of Ota- D heite, and anchored within half a mile of the shore. Many of the natives came off imme- diately in their canoes, and brought with them bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, apples, and some hogs, which they bartered for beads and other trinkets with the ship's company. The tree which bears the breadfruit, is about the size of a horse-chesnut : its leaver are near afoot and a half in length, in shape oblong, and very much resemble those of the lig-tree. The fruit is not unlike the can- taIoui)e melon ; it is inclosed in a thin skin, and its core is as large as a man's thumb. The substance of this fniit is somewhat like that of new bread, and as white as the blanched almond. It must be roasted, and when eaten it has the taste of a slight sweet- ness. Among those who came on board the En- deavour, was an elderly man, named Owhaw, known to Mr. Gore and others who had visited this island with Capt. Wallis. Ow- haw being considered by our gentlemen as a ^ 18 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, i very useful man, tbey studied to please him, and to gratify all his wishes. As our C(m- tinuanoe in George's Island was not likely to be very short, certain rules were drawn up to be observed by every person on board his majesty's bark the Endeavour, for the better establishing' a regular trade with the natives. The substance of these rules were, " That in order to prevent (juarrels and confusion, every one of the ship's crew should endea- vour to treat the inhabitants of Otaheite with humanity, and by all fair means to cul- tivate a friendship with them. That no officer, seamen, or other person, belonging to the ship, excepting such only who were appointed to barter witli the natives, should trade, or offer to trade, for any kinds of pro- vision, fruit, or other produce of* the island, without having express leave so to do. That no person should embezzle, trade, or offer to trade with any part of the ship's stores: and, that no sort of iron, or any thing made of iron, nor any sort of cloth, or other useful articles in the ship, should be given in exchange for any thing but provi- sion." These necessary rules were signed by Capt. Cook, and, being his orders, to the non-observance of them were annexed cer- tain penalties, besides the punishment ac- cording to the usual custom of the navy, Wlien the bark was properly secured, Capt. Cook, Mr. Banks, and Dr, Solander, went on shore, with a party under arms, and their friend the old Indian. They were re- ceived by some hundreds of the natives with awe and reverence, who exchanged the to- kens of peace, and orteied to conduct them to a spot o1" ground, Avliich would he more con- venient lor theui to occupy, than that where they had landed. On tlieir way, the Englisli made the Iu« ^f'ntle- man paid little attention to her; and Toiiiio received an additional mortiticaticm, when Mr. Banks beckoned to a pretty e^irl, who, with some reluctance, came and placed her- self by him. The princess \yas somewhat chagrined at this preference given to her ri- val ; nevertheless she continued her xssidui- tjes to her piiest. This whimsical scene was interrupted by an event of a more serious nature ; Dr. ' Solander havine: missed his opera glass, a complaint was made to the chief, which interrupted the convivial party. The complaint was intbrced by Mr. Bank's starting up and striking the but-end of his musquet against the ground, which struck the Indians with such a panic that all of Ihem ran precipitately out of the house, except the chief and a few others of the su- perit»r class. That no disadvantageous no- tions might be entertained of iliem on account of this circumstance, the chief observed, with an air of great probity, That the place which the Doctor had mentioned on tiiis occasion, was not within his district, but that he would send to the chief of it, and endeavour to recover it, adding, that if this could not be done, he would make the Doc- tor comnensation, by giving him as much new clotli, (of which he produced large quan- tities) as should be thought equal to the value. The case however was brought in a little time, and the glass itself soon after, which deprived us of the merit we should otherwise have had in refusing the cloth which had been offered us. But it afforded an opportunity of convincing the natives of our generosity, by lavishing rewards upon them for an action, to which self-interest had been the motive, rather than any sen- timent of probity : to which from numerous transactions, they appeared to be absolutely strangers. After this adventure was amica- bly terminated, we returned to the ship about six o'clock in the evening. On Satur- day the 15th, in the morning, several of the cJuefs, one of whom was very corpulent, came on board from the other point, brinif. ing with llum hogs, bread-fruit, and other rerrcshiiieiils, in exchange for which they received linen, beads, and other trinkets ; but some oi'them took the liberty of stealings the lightening chain. This day the Captain, attended l)y IMr. Jianks, and some of the other gentlemen, went on shore to lix on a proper spot to erect a fort lor their delence, during their stay on the island, and the ground was accordingly marked out lor that purpose; a great number of the natives look- ing on all the while, and behaving in the most peaceable and friendly manner,' Mr. Banks and his friends having seen few hogs and poultry in their walks, they suspected that they had lieen driven u[> the country ; for which reason they determined to penetratic into the woods, the tent being guarded by a i>etty officer and a party of marines. On tliis excursion several of the natives accompanied the English. While the party were on their march they were alarmed by the discharge of two pieces fired by the guard of the tent. Owhaw havin j now called together the Captain's party, dis- persed all the Indians, except three, who in token of their fidelity broke branches of treea^ according to their custom, and whom it was thought proper to retain. When they return- ed to the tent, they found that an Indian having snatched away one of the centinel's musq^uets, a young midshipman, who com- manded the party, was so imprudent as to g^ve the marines orders to fire, which were obeyed, and many of the natives were wound- ed ; but this did not satisfy them, as the offender had not fallen, they therefore pur- sued him and revenged the theft by his death. This action, which was equally in- consistent with policv and humanity, could not but be very displeasing to Mr. Banks ; but as what had passe(J could not be recall' ed, nothing remained but to endeavour to accommodate matters with the Indians. Accordingly he crossed the river, where he met an old man, through whose mediation several of the natives were prevailed to come over to them, and to give the usual tokens of friendship. The next morning, however, they saw but few of the natives on sHR: ' ■jlj 1 1 \t. r' so VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, the banks, and none came on board, from whence it was concluded that the treatment they had received the former day was not yet forgotten, and the English were confirmed in this opinion by Owhaw's having left them. In consequence of these circumstances, the Captain brought the ship nearer to the shore, and moored her in such a manner as to make her broad-side bear on the spot which they had. marked out for erecting their little fortification. But in the evening the Cap- tain and some of the gentlemen going on shore, the Indians came round them, and traflicked with them as usual. Mr. Banks on the 17th, had the misfor- tune to lose Mr. Buchan. The same day they received a visit from Tubourai Tamai- de, and Tootahah. They brought with them some plantain branches, and till these were received, they would not venture on board. They bartered some bread-fruit and a hog which was ready dressed, for nails, with the English. The fort began to be erected on the 18th. And now some of the company were employ- ed in throwing up intrenchments, whilst others were busied ni cutting fascines and pickets, in which work the Indians assisted them. They fortified three sides of the place, with intrenchments, and pallisadoe.s, and upon the other which « as flanked by a river, where a breast-work was formed by the water-casks. The natives brought down such quantities of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts this day, that it was necessary to refuse them, and to let them know that none would be wanting for two days. Mr. Bunks slept for the first time on shore this night. None of the Indians attempted to ajjproacli his tent, he had however taken the precaution of placing centinels about it, for its defence, m case any attack shoidd be meditated. Tubourai Taniaide visited Mr. Banks at his tent on Wfiduesday the lJ)th, and brought with him his wife and family, w ith the ma- terials for erecting a house, intending to build it near the fort. He afterwards asked that gentleman to accompany him to the woods. On their arrival at a place wliere he sometitnes resided, he i)resented his guests with two yarments, one of which was of red 4 cloth, and the other was made of fine mat ting; having thus clothed Mr. Banks, he conducted him to the ship, and staid to din- ner with his wife and son. They had a dish served up that day, which was preuared bv the attendants of Tubourai Tamaiae, which seemed like wheat flour, and beingmixed with cocoa-nut liquor, it was stirred about till it became a jelly. Its flavour was something like blanc mange. A sort of market was now established without the lines of the fort, which was tolerably well supplied, and Tu- bourai Tamaide was a frequent guest to Mr. Banks, and the other English gentlemen. He was the only native that attempted to use a knife and fork, bein^ fond of adopt- ing European manners. Mr. Monkhouse the surgeon being abroad on his evening walk, reported that he had seen the body of a man who had been shot from the tent, of which he gave the following account. '• The corpse was deposited in a shed, close to the house where the deceased had resided when he was alive, and others were within ten yards of it. It was about fifteen feet in length, and eleven in breadth, and the height was proportionable. The sides and one end w ere inclosed with a sort of wicker work; the other end was entirely open. The body lay on a bier, the frame of which was of wood, sup])orted by posts about five feet high, and was covered with a mat, over which lay a white cloth; by the side of it lay a wooden mace, and towards the Head two cocoa-shells ; towards the feet was a bunch of greeji leaves, and small dried boughs tied together, aiul stuck in the ground, near which >vas a stone about the size of a cocoa- nut ; here were also placed a young plan- tain tree, and a stone axe. A great many palm nuts were hung in strings at the open end of the shed ; and the stem of a palm< tree was stuck up on the outside of it, upon which was placed a cocoa-shell filled %vith water. At the side of one of the posts there hung a little bag with some roasted pieces of bread-fruit." The natives were not pleas- ed at his approaching the body, their jea- lously appearing plainly in their counter nances and gestures. On the 22nd we were entertained by some o f rH Ki AND ROUND THE WORLD. SI le mat* kks, he to din- a dish ired by , which ed with ; till it lething et was :he fort, nd Tu- to Mr. tleinen. jjted to adopt- khouse evening 3ody of tent, of "The to the id when thin ten • feet in md the les and ■ wicker en. The ich was live feet jr which it lay a ;ad two t bunch ghs tied d, near a cocoa- g plan- ,t many le open a palm- it, upon ed >vith ts there pieces ot pleas- leir jea- counte* ysoni€Q the musicians of the country, who perform- ed on an instrument somewhat resemblins a eerman flute, but the performer blew through fiis nostril instead of his mouth, and others accompanied this instrument, singing- only one tune. Some of the Indians brought their axes to grind and repai.r, most of which they had obtained from Cajit. Wallis and his people in the Dolphin; but a French one occasioned a little speculation, and at length upon inquiry, it appeared to have beeii left here by M. de Bougainville. On the 2 1th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solan- der made an excursion into the country, and found it level and fertile along the shore, for about two miles to the east-ward; after which the hills reached quite to the water's edge ; and farther on they ran out into the sea. Having passed these hills, which con- tinued about three miles, we came to an extensive plain, abounding with good habi- tations, and the people seemed to enjoy a considerable share of property. The place was rendered still more agreeable by a wide river issuing from a valley, and which wa^ tered it. We crossed this river, when per- ceiving the coimtry to be barren, we resolved to return. Just as we were al)out so ti> do, we were offered some refreshment by a man, which some writers have expressed to be a mixture of many nations, but different from all, his skin being of a dead white, though some parts of his body were not so w bite as others ; and his hair, -eye-brows, and beard were as white as his skin. His eyes appear- ed like those that are blood-shot, and he seemed as if he was near sighted. Upon onr return, the excessive joy of Tubourai 1'amai- de and his women is not to be expressed. On the 2.5th, in the evening, several of the gentlemen's knives being missed, Mr. Banks, who had lost his among the rest, accused Tubourai Tamaiae of having taken it, which as he was innocent, occasioned him a great deal of unmerited anxiety. He made signs, while the tears started from his eyes, that if he had ever been guilty of such a thefl as was imputed to him, he would suffer his throat to be cut. But though he was inno- cent, it was plain from many instances, that tlie natives of this island were very much addicted to thieving: thoug;h Mr. Bank's servant had mislaid the knife .in question, yet the rest were produced in a rag, by one of the natives. When the guns on the 26th, which were six swivels, had been mounted on the ihit, the Inilians seemed to be in great trouble, and several of the fishermen removed, fear- ing, notwithstanding all the marks of friend- ship that had been shewn to them by our I^eople, they should, within a iew days, be tired at from the tort : yet the next day, bt*- ing the 27th, Tubourai Tamaide came' with three women, and a friend of his, who was a remarkable glutton, into the fort to dine with us, and after dinner returned to his own house in the wood. In a short time af- ter he came back to complain to Mr, Banks, of a butcher, who had threatened to cut lii» wife's throat, because she would not barter a stone hatchet for a nail. It appearing clearly that th(* offender had infringed one of the rules enjoined by the Captain for tra- ding with the natives, he was flogged on board in their sight. When the first stroke had been given, they were humane enougli to interfere, and intreated earnestly that the culprit might be untied ; but when tins fa- vour was denied them, they shewed strong signs of concern, and burst into tears.. On the 28th, Terapo, one of Tabourai Ta maide's female attendants, came down to the fort in the greatest affliction, the tears gush- ing from her eyes. Mr. Banks seeing her l\dl of lamentation and sorrow, insisted upon knowing the cause, but instead of answering, she struck herself several times with a shark's toolli upon her head, til I an effusion of blood followed, while her distress was disregarded l>y several other Indians, who continued laughing and talking with the utmost un- concern. After this she gathered up some i)ie- ces of cloth, which she nad thrown down to catch the blood, and threw them into tlie sea, as if she wished to j^revent the least trace and mark of her absurd behaviour. She then bathed in the river, and with remark- able cheerfulness returned to the tent as if nothing extraordinary had happened. Dur- ing the forenoon of this day the Indian ca- noes were continually coining in, and people St V OYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, of both roxes fillcfl the tents of the fort. Mr. M«>!iiuMix master (>r thvery : to him, as if he had been ju.st on the point of death. But when the na- ture of this dreadful poison was found out, he only ordered him to drink of cocoa-nut milk, which soon restored him to health, and he was as cheerful as before the acci- dent happened. These people seemed in par- ticular instances to be sometimes strangely alHicted from slight causes. On the 1st of May, Capt. Cook having produced an iron adze, which was made iii imitation of the stone ones used by the na- tives, shewed it to Tootabah, as a curiosity. The latter snatched it up and insisted on having it ; and though he was offered the choice of any of the articles in the chests which were opened before him, yet he would not accept of any thing in its stead. A chief dined with us that day, who had been on board some time before, accompanied by some of his women that used to feed him. He now came alone ; and when all things were set ready for dinner, the Captain help- ed him to some victuals, supposing that fie would have dispensed with the ceremony of being fed; but he was deceived; for th« chief never attempted to eat, and would have gone without his dinner, if one of the ser- vants had not fed him. The next morning, May 2nd, we took the astronomical quadrant and some uf the instruments on shore that afternoon; and to our great surprise, when 7 we wante«l to make use of the nundraiit the next day, it was not to be found; a mat- ter which was looked uiMni as the iiu»re ex- traordinary, as a ceiitiiiel had been placed for the whole niitht within a few yards of the place where it was deposited. Our own peo- ple, at first, w ere suspected of being con- cerned in this theft, and, as the instrument had never been taken out of the case, it was suspected that some jierson might have car- ried it off, under the supposition that its con- tents were articles used in tratHc. A strict search was made in and about the fort, and . a c«)n.siderable reward offered in order to ob- tain it again. But all tliis proving fruitless, Mr. Banks, accoijipanied by Mr. Green and some other gentlemen, set out for the woods, where they thought they might probably get some tidings of what was stolen. In their way, they met with Tulionrai Tamaide and .some of the natives. This chief was made to understand by signs, that they had lost the quadrants and that as some of his country- men must have taken it, they insisted upon : being ^hewn the place where it was conceal- ed. Having proceeded a few miles together, after some inquiry, Tubourai Tamaide was informed who the chief was, and it w as found that he was then at a place about four miles distant. As they hatl no arms but a brace of pistols, not caring to trust them- selves so far from the Ibrt, a message was despatched to Capt. Cook, re(iuesting him to«send out a party to supjiort them. The Captain accordingly set out with a party properly armed, after having laid an embar- go upon all the canoes in the bay. In the mean time. Mr. Banks and Mr. Green proceeded on their way, and at the ;>iace which had been mentioned, were met >y one of Tubourai Tamaide's own people, iringing with him part of the quadrant ; the case and the other parts of the instrument were recovered soon alterwards, when it was found that it had received no real illjury^ though it had been taken to pieces. When they returned in the evening, tliey were much surprised to find Tooiahah un- der confinement in the fort, while a crowd of the natives surrounded the gate, discoverini* marks of the greatest auxiety for the futu of \ f ■'j< 24 VOYAGE IT) THE SOUTH SEAS, their chiel'. The occasion of hi» detention ori^:iiiated from the conduct of the Indians: akiriiied at Capt. Cook's having gone u^ the country with an armed party, most ot the natives left the fort that evening, and one of the canuc's attempted to quit the bay. The lieutenant who commanded on board the «hi|), having it in charge not to sutler any canoe to depart, sent a boat to detain her, but slie no sooner approached than the In- ^lians jumped into the sea. Tootahali being of the number, was taken up, and sent bv the lieutenant to the olKcer that coinninnd- ed at the fort, who concluded lie sliouhl do right to detain him prisoner, while the poor €hief thought of nothing but being piit to death, till Capt. Cook caused him to be re- turned, to the great joy of his countrymen. But the natives w«re still inclined to bear this affair in their minds, and as a proof of it, thejj' neglected to supply the niarket with provisions. Mr. Banks walking into the ivoods, heard great murmurings concerning the treatment of Tootahah, who, as thev said, had been ill used and beaten, though Mr. Banks declared he was quite ignorant x)f his having received such treatment. The chief now sent for such hogs to be restored as he had left behind him, at first intending them as a present, which by this time, perhaps, he did not think the English had merited ; but they refused to send them nnJess he would come himself, thinking by an intervi<;w to promote a reconciliation; and this they were the more desirous of, as they were told it would be a fortnight be- fore he would pay them a visit. On the 3rd, jnovisions were extremely scarce, as the markets roHfuHied to be ill supplied on the account already mentioned ; and it was not without some diificulry, that Mr. Banks got a (tw baskets of bread-fruit from Tubourai Tamaide. Tootahah on the 4th sent for an axe and a shirt in return for the hogs, which were accordingly promised to be Hn)ught him the next day. He sent again early in the morning of the 5th, and Mr. Banks and the Docter set out in the pin- nace, taking with them one of Tootahah's peo]>le and soon reached Eparre, where he «e.i;id(^l, w iiich was u few miles to the west- ward. When they arrived there, thejr found a great number of the natives waiting for them on the shore, and were conducted di- rectly to the chief, the people, notwithstand- ing tne offence they had .so lately taken, shouting out in their lan^age, " Tootahah is your triend." He was .sitting under a tree* and some old men were standing about him. Having made signs for them to oe seated, he asked tor the axe, which was then given him by Capt. Cook, as also the shirt that he had demanded, and a broad-cloth garment, which latter he put on, and was well pleased with the present. They ate a mouthful together in the boat, and were afterwards conducted to a large court-yard on one side of the chief's house, where they were to be enter- tained with, wrestling alter the manner ol the country. He himself sat at the up|)er end of the area, having several of his princi- pal men on each side of him, who api>eared as judges of the sport, which was as follow : Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many simple ceremonies of chal- lenging, they engaged, and each endeavour- ed to throw his antagoni^^t by mere strength : thus they seized each other by the h^na, or other parts of the body, grapling, without the least art, till one, by naving a greater hold, or stronger mascufar force, threw his antagonist on his back. The conquest was applauded by the old men with a few words repeated in a kind of tune, and with three huzzas. After one engagement another svic- c ^-"ded : but if the combatants could not throw each other in the space of a minute, they parted, either by consent, or the intfer- vention of their friends. Several women of rank in the country were present, but it was thought they only attended this amusement in compliment to the English gentlemen. A man with a stick, who made way for us when we landed, officiated as master of the cereiAonies, kee[>ing order among the peo- Ele, and those of them who pressed forward e struck with his stick very smartly. Dur- ing these athletic sports, another parhr of men performed a dance, for the space of a min- ute, but neither of these paKies took the least notice of each other, their attention being wholly fixed on their own endeavours ^\ ' J found ting for cted di- thstand- I taken, ootahah r a tree, out him. Bated, he iven him t he had [it, which sed with toffether Dnuucted e of the be enter- lanner of lie uptjer is princi- ap|>eared IS follow : 1 the area, s of chal- ndeavour- strenffth : ; h^nd, or , without a greater threw his luest was 'ew words yith three other suc- could not minute, the iutfer- vomen of but it was jnusement entlemen. ay for us ster of the the peo- forward ;ly. Dur- •ty of men ■of a min- took the attention ideavours AND ROUND THE WORLD. N to pkase and conquer. At the conclusion of lhi;t. Cook into our boat. litre we f hought to have en- an additional opp«nf unity of conferring ob- ioyed our good cheer, and yet we neither ligations on them, by p< rmitting tin; smith, dined on shore nor in the boat, but at the in his leisure hours, to « ouvert the old iron, desire of Tubourai Tainaide, proceeded as which they were suppostti to have procured far as the ship : no small mortification this, from the J)olphin, into dilKerent kinds of as we had to row four miles, while our din- tools. (>l)erea produced as lUMch ol' ^.'ap'. (ic - Ih. e. Cook they named Toote ; Mr. The master thay called Boba, n tian name Robert ; Mr. Gore, Solander, Torano ; Mr. Banks, Tapans, return, he was informed by our two gentle- were significant words in their own lau men, that it was a species of the fig, whose guage ; and we are inclined to this opinion, brandies bending down to the earth ♦inke because Mr. Monkhouse, who coinniHuded fresh root, and thus form a mass of trucks, the party that shot the man for stealing a which beiii_ all unitdd by a common vege- musket, they named Matte, which was not tation, might easily be mistaken for one trunk merely an arbitrary sound, but in their lan< or body. guage it signified dead. E m CHAP. IV. i!'^ 'y ■ An extraordhtary visit; Divine service attended by tie natives «f Otaheite ; An tmeomnion nght ; Tohowai Tamaide found guilty of theft ; A visit paid to Tootuhah; Variotu adventures at thai time, and an extraordinary amusement of the Indians^ A relation of what happened at tie fort, while preparations were making to observe the Transit of Venus ; The observations made with great success; A. particular account and description of an Indian funeral ; An unustuil character among the Indians ; A robbery at the fort ; Specimen of Indian Cookery ; A narrative of various inci- dents; A circumnavigation of the island, and occurrences during this expedition; A burying-place, mnd a Morai, or place of worship described; An inland expedition of Mr. Hanks; Preparations made by the crew of the Endeavour to leave the island of Otaheite ; An account ofth", departure of the Endeavour, and the behaviour oftlie natives, particularly ofTupiaon this occasion. ON the 12th of this month (May) an un- common ceremony was performed by some of the natives. As Mr. Banks was Kitting in his boat, trading with them as usual, some ladies, who were strangers, ad- vanced in procession towards him. The rest of the Indians on each side gave way, and formed a lane for the visitors to pass, who coming up to Mr. Banks, presented him with some parrof s feathers, and various kinds of plants. Tupia, who stooc* by Mr. Banks, acted as his master ot the ceremo- nies, and receiving the branches, which were brought at six different times, laid them down *n the boat. After this some large bandies of cloth were brouglit, consisting of nine pieces, which being divided into three parcels, one of the wome.^, called Oorat^ooa, who appealed to be the principal, stepping upon one of them, pulled up her clothes as high as her waist, and then, with an air of unaffected simplicity, turned round three times. This ceremony she reneated, with i^imilar circumstances, on the otner two par- i2els of cloth ; and the whole being then presented to Mr. Banks, the ladies went and saluted him ; in return for which extraor- dinary favours, he made them such presents as he thought would best please them. In the evening the gentlemen of the fort were visited by Oberea, ai^d Otheorea, her favou- rite female attendant, who was a very agree- able g'rl, and whom we were the nore pleased to see, .)ecKuse it had been report- ed that she was either sick or dead. 2 On the 1.3th Tubourai Tamaide offended Mr. Banks by snatching his gun out of his hand, and firing it in the air ; an action wliich also much surprized that gentleman, as he imagined him totally ignorant of the use of it. And as the ignorance of the peo- ple of those countries in regard to this par- ticular, must always cause them to fear their guests, Mr. Banks therefore made a serious matter of what probably, the other meant only as a joke ; and, not without threats, gave him to understand, that for him but to touch the i)iece was a high insult. Th«; offender made no reply, but set out immedi- ately, with his family for Eparre. Great in- convenience being apprehended from this man, and as in many instances he had been particularly useful, Mr. Banks determined to follow him. He t.et out the same evening fr<»m the fort, accompanied by Mr. Molineux, and found him in the middle of a large cir- cle yf people, the picture of extreme grief, which was also visible in the counteiiances of his attendants. One of the women ex- pressed her trouble in the same manner as feropo had done, upon another occasion. Mr. Banks lost no time in endeavouring to put an end to all animosity. The chief was soothed int^' ontidence, and a double canoe being got readv, they all returned together lo the fort before supper ; and as a pledge of sincere reconciliation, both he and his u ife passed the night in the tent of Mr. Hanks. That very niifjht, notwithstanding iheir presence one of the nativ<;s attempted AND ROUND THE WORLD. a? to scale the barricadoes of the fort ; but be- ing discovered bjr one of our centinels, he ran awav much faster than any of our peo- ple could follow him. The temptation which caused him to attempt what might have cost him his life was, doubtless, the iron, and iron tools, which were in use at the armourer's forge : incitements to theft which none of the Indians could resist. On Sunday the 14th, in the morning di- vine service was performed at the fort. We ihoped to have had the presence of some of the Indians, but before the time fixed on for begining the service, mo. t of them were gone home. Tubourai Tamaide and his wife were present, but though they behaved with much decency, they made no inqui- ries with respect to the ceremonies, and their brethren were as little inquisitive upon their return. The day thus begun with acts of devotion, was concluded with those of lewdness exhibited among the natives by way of entertainment. On monday the lijfh, Tubourai Tamaide was detected in having committed a theft, Mr. Banks had a good opinion of this chief, but when his honesty was put to the test, a basket of nails, left in the comer of the tent proved irresistible. He confessed the fact of having stolen four nails, but when restitution was demanded. Tamaide said the nails were at Eparre. High words passed on the occasion, and in the end, the Indian produced one of the nails, and was to be for- given on restoring the rest ; but his virtue was not equal to the task, and he withdrew himself as usual, when he had committed any offence. At this time our long-boat was so much eaten with worms, that it was found necessary to give her a new bottom. On ex- amining the pinnace, thinking she might be in the same state, we had the satistaction to perceive, that not a worm had touched her. riiis tliiference in the condition of the two boats we attributed to the different ingredi- ents with which their bottoms were paid ; the long-boat had been paid with varnish of f)ine, and the pinnace painted with white ead and oil; which last coating we tliMik to be the most eligible for the bv ttoms ol all boats intended for this part of the world On the 24th, Mr. IJicks was sent to Too- tahah, who had removed from Eparre to a place called Tettahah. The chief havinj^ sent several times to request a visit i'rnm the Captain, promising at the same time, tiuit he would acknowledge the favonr })y a pre- sent of some hogs, the business of Mr. Hicks was to ol.ttain if possible the hogs, upon easier terms than the required visit. He was received in a friendly mu;iner by Tootahah, who, upon his arrival, produced one liog only, but promised three more that were jit a distance the next morning. Mr. Hicks waited patiently till the appointed time ; but when the morning came, he was obliged to depart with the single hog that had been presented to him. On the 25th, Mr. Banks seeing Tubourai Tamaide and.his wife Tomio at the tent for the first time since the former had been de- tected in stealing the nailr,, he endeavoured to persuade him to restore them, but in vain. As our gentlemen treated him with a reserve and coolness which he could not but per- ceive, his stay was short, and he departed in a very abrupt manner; nor could cur surgeon the next morning persuade to affect a reconciliation by bringing doMTi the nailsL On the 27th» Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, CsLpt. Cook, and some others, set out in the pinnace to visit Tootahah, who had again removed to a place called Atahourou, six miles from his last abode: and not being able to go halfway thither in a boat, it was almost evening before we arrived. We found the chief as usual, sitting under a tree with a g;eat crowd about him. Having made our presents in due form, consisting of a yellow stuff petticoat, and other trifling ar- ticles, we were invited to supper, and to pass the night there. Our ])arty consisted of six. only ; but the place was crowded with -i greater number than the houses and c;anoes could contain. Among other guests were Oberea with her train of attendants. Mr. Banks having accepted of a lodging in Obe- lea's canoe, left his compan QMS in order to retire to rest. Obei ea hm\ tlie charge of" liis clotlies; but notwithstandini:- her caio they were stoien, as were also his pisfiws. Ijis powder horn, and several other thini^s out Ml \ ■. I •■!, I I VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS oj as or his waiijcoat pockets. An alarm was given They employed themselves for some time jr to Tootahan mthe next canoe, who went preparing their instruments, and instructing with Obereain search of the thief, leaving those gentlemen who were to go out, in the Mr. Banks with only his breeches ana use of them ; and on Thursday the first of waiscoat on, and his musket uncharged. June, they sent the long-boat with Mr. (ji»»re« They soon returned, but without succesi?. Mr. Monkhou.f;e (the two observers) and Mr. Mr. Banks thought proper to put up witli Sporing, tlie latter of whom was a ftiend of the loss at present, and retired a second tiir,e Mr. Banks, with proper instruments to Enia* to rest; just as he had composed himself to yo. Others were sent to find out a spot that sleep, he was roused by some music, and niight answer the purpose, at a convenient observed lights at a little distance from the distance from their principal station, shore. He then rose to go and find his The party that went towards Eniuyo, after 4'onipanions. As soon as he approached the rowing tha greater part of the ni^ht, having lights, he found the hut where Capt. Cook hailed a canoe, were informed ot a place bj and three others of the gentlemen lay, when the Indians on board, which was judf^ed lie began to relate his misadventure to them -, proper f©r their observatory, where they ac- they told him in return, that they had lost coidingly fixed their te.'its. It was a rock their stockings and jackets. In effect Dr. that rose out of the water about 140 yards Solander, who joined thi^m the next mom- from the shore. ing, was the only one that escaped being Saturday the Sr ^ (the day of the transit) robbed, and he had slept at a house that Mr. Baulrs, ai oov . it was light, left them was a mile distant. This accident, however in order to go :aiu get fresh provisions on did not prevent Capt. Cook, Mr. Banks, and the island. This gentleman had the sati»- the rest that were at the hut from attending faction to see the sun rise without a cloud, to the music which was a sort of concert The king, whose name was Tarrao, came called heiva,* and consisted of drums, flutes, to pay him a visit, as hr was trading with and several voices. They retired a^a'n to the natives, and biought with him Nana his their repose, after this entertainm ht was sister. As it was customary for the people over. in these parte to be seated at their conter- Their clothes and the other things which ences, Mr. Bank's spread his turban of In- had been ntoien, were never heard of after- dian cloth, which he wore as a hat, upon the wards, but Mr. Banks got some clothes from ground, on which they all set down. Then Oberea, in which he made a whimsical ap- a hog and a dog, some cocoa-nuts, and bread- pearance. fruit were brought, being the king's present, On the 28th, we set out for the boat, hav- and Mr. Banks sent for an MJye, a shirt, and ing obtained only one hog, which had been some beads, which wer*" ;'- st ,ited to his intended for our supper the proceeding night; majesty, who received thf v i^^U apparent so that all things considered, we had little satisfaction. Tubourailui; . i*^ .tndxomio, reason to be satisfied with our excursion, who had gone with Mr. BanL ,, «• iriie from On our return to the boat, we had a specimen the observatory, when Tomio, who was said of the agility of the Indian swimmers, some to be related to Tarrao, gave him a long nail, of whom, merely for diversion, swam in a and left a shirt as a present for Nun > Af-' surf where no European boat could have terwards the king his sister, and three beau- lived, and where our best swimmers must tiful young women their attendants, returned have jierished, had they accidentally fallen in with Mr Banks to the observatory, where he with it. shewed them the transit of Venus, when At this time the preparations were made that planet was upon t i; sun, and acquaint- for viewing the transit of Venus, and two ed them, that to view . !> that situation was jiarties were sent out to make observations the cause of his undeilak;jn>, a vovage to from different spots, that in case of fading those remoter parts. According to this gen- place, Uieymiifht succeed in another, gentleman's account, the produce of t.hi<» 4 Oli AND ROUND THE WORLD. 29 time ir ructing in the first of ", (ji<»re« ntl Mr. lend of ;o Eiim* K)t tliat venicnt yn, after , hav'iig >lace by judfifed hey ac- a rock yards transit) eft them lions on le »atis- 1 cloud, o, came ng with ^una his people conter- of In- ipon the Then d bread- present, irt, and to his nparent Tomio, :ie from ^vas said mg nai], I.- Af- e beau- •eturned here he when !qiiaint- ion was lvat?e to |his gen- of thn i«and« nearly the «me with that oiOto- f^««\oJr'J<± In the front of the that island; l"* had s«n many otthem upon j ,^ f ^^ j ^ef. There were un- 'ti^&S ThiVrtes It'^ir^^^^ §er the awning someWce. of cloth, where- iraamg arucies. xneimiii ^^^ ^^^^ on were the tears and blood of the mourners. out to make their observations on , sit, had good success in the undertaking : though they differed rather more than might have ceen expected in their account ot the contact. - -, Mr. Green's account was as follows : Hours. Min. Sec. The fii^t external contact - 9 The first internal contact, or total emersion 9 35 JTie second internal contact, or beginning of the emer- sion - ---- 3 The second external contact, or total emersion - - - - 3 44 14 32 who used to >vound themselves with a shark's tooth upon these occasions. Four temporary houses were erected at a small distance, in one of which ren ained some of the relations of the deceased ; the chief mou-nier resided in another ; and was dressed in a particu- lar manner, in order to perform a certain ceremony. When the corpse is rotten, the bones are buried near the spot, and these places were found to answer the purposes of religious worship, though Capt. Wallis could not perceive the traces of any such worship among them. Concerning the ce- remony we are about to speak of, the follow- ing is the account we have of it, wljich may Latitude of the observatory 17 deg. 29 niin. not be unentertainiiig to the curious reader. 15 sec. south ; longitude, 149 deg. 32 min. It was performed on the 10th, and Mr. Banks 30 sec. west .from Greenwich. was so desirous of being present, that he While the gentlemen and officers were bu- agreed to take a part in it, when he was in lied in viewing the transit, some of the ship's lormed that he could not be a spectator ott company having broke into the store-room, any other condition. He went accordingly took the liber^ of stealing a quantity of in the e- ening, to the place where the body spike-nails. Atter a strict search the thief was deposited, where he was met by the re- was found out; he had however, but few of lations of the deceased, and was afterwards the nails in his possession ; but he was or- joined by several other persons. Tubourai dered to receive two dozen of lashes, by way Tamaide was the principal mourner, whose of example. dress was whimsical, though not altogether On the 4th, thetwoparties sent out to observe ungraceful. Mr. Banks was obliged to quit the transit were absent ; on which account his European dress, and had no otlier cover- we deferred keeping His Majesty's birth-day ing than a small piece of cloth that was to the next day, the 5th, when we celebrat- tied round his middle ; his body was black- ed the same, several of the Indian chiefs ed over with charcoal and water, as were partook of our entertainment, and in turn the bodies of several others, and among them drank His Majesty's health by the name of some females, who were no more covered Kirhiargo, the nearest imitation they could than himself The procession then began, produce of King George. About this time and the chief mourner uttered some words an old female of some distinction dying, which were judged to be a prayer, when he liuve the P^nglish an opportunity of observ- approached the body, and he repeated these ing the ceremonies used by these islanders in disposing of the dead bodies of their peo- ple ; which, as we have observed, they do not directly bury. The reader has already seen the description of the bier, the placing the hread-fruit, &c. which according to Tou- bourat Tamaide's account, was a kind of 5 words as he came wp to his own house. They afterwards went on, by permission, towards the fort. It is usual for the rest of the Indians to shun these processions as much as possible ; they accordingly ran into the woods in great haste, as soon as this came in view. From the fort the uiournfiii "f? • I t 1 ' I '■' 'H i , l! 30 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, proceeded alongp the shore, crossed the river, then entered the woods, passing several houses, which became immediately uninha- bited, ainl during the rest of the procession, Mliich continued for half an hour, not an Indian was visible. Mr. Banks tilled an oiiice that they called Niniveh, and there Mere, two others in the same character. IVhen none of the other natives were to be seen, they approached the chief mourner, saying Iinatata ; then those who had assist- ed at the ceremony bathed in the river, and resumed their former dress. Such was this unconnnbn ceremony, in which Mr. Banks performed a principal |)art, and received .'jpplause from Tubourai Tamaide, the chief juounier. What can have introduced aniong- ihese India -^ "--^ range a custom as that of exposing' then \ above ground, till tlie flesh is consume. .>y putrefaction, and then burying- the bones, it is perhaps impossible to guess ; nor is it less ditficult to determine, why the repositories of their dead should be also places of worship. On the 12th, the Indians having lost some of their bows and arrows, and strings of jilaited hair, a complaint was made to the ('aptain. The affair was inquired into, and the fact being- well attested, the offenders re(;eiVed each two dozen of lashes. The same day Tubourai Tamaide brought his bow and arrows, in order to decide a chal- lenge of shooting between him and Mr. Gore; but it appeared they had mistaken each other, Mr. Gore inteiuling to discharge his arrow at a mark, while the Indian meant only to try who could shoot farthest. The challenge was dropped in consequence of the mistake being discovered ; but Tubourai Tamaide, in order to display his skill, kneel- ing down, shot an arrow, uni'eathered (as they all are) near the sixth part of a mile, chopping the bow the instant thi^ arrow was discharged. Mr. "Banks having this morn- ing met several of the natives, and being in- formed, that a musical entertainment was expected in the evening, he and the rest of the English gentlemen, resolved to be pre- sent at the same. They went accordingly, , and heard a performance on drums and flutes by a kind of itinerant musicians. The 6 drummers sung to the music, and the Eng-> lish were much surprized when they found that they were the subject of their lays. The songs they therelbre concluded to be extemporary enusioiis, the rewards whereof were such necessaries as they required. On the 14th, in the night, an i >n coal rake for tlie oven was stolen ; and many other things havii^ at different times been conveyed away, Capt. Cook judged it of some consequence, to put an end . if* possi- ble to such practices, by making it their common interest to prevent it. He had al- ready given strict orders, that the centinels ^hould not fire upon the Indians, even if they were detected in the fact ; but many repeated depredations determined him tff make repnsals. About twenty-seven of their double canoes with sails were just arrived, containing cargoes of fish ; these the Captain seized, and then gave notice that unless the rake, and all the other things that had been .stolen, »were returned, the vessels should be burnt. The menace pro- duced no other effect than the restitution of the rake, all the other things remaining in their possession. The Captain however thought fit to give up the cargoes, as the innocent natives were in great distress for want of them, and in order to prevent the confusion arising from disputes concerning the property of the different lots of goods which tney had on board. About this time another incident had nearly, notwithstand- ing all our caution, embroiled us with the Indians. The Captain having sent a bo'^t on shore to get ballast, the ofiH;er not meet- ing immediately with what he wanted, be- gan to pull down one of the sepulchral man- sions of the dead ; which sacrilegious act of violence was immediately opposed by the enraged islanders. Intelligence of this dis- pute being received by Mr. Banks, he weait to the place, and a reconciliation >vas joon effected, which put an end to the dispute, by sending the boat's crew to the river-side, where a sufficient quantity of stones were to be had without a possibility of giving offence. This was the only instance m which they offered to o]»pose us ; and (ex- cept the affair of the fort, which has bee» the ling- ley found beir lays, led to be 5 whereof ired. i >ii coal lid many mes been ged it of . if* pussi- >• it their B had al- ceiitinels s, even if mi many i him tO' -seven ot (vere just these the [)tice tliat ler things irned, the nace pro- titution of laining' in I however iSy as the istress for event the onceming of goods his time j'ithstand- with the rit a b€''\t lot meet- nted, be- hral man- US act of V)y the this dis- he weait was soon dispute, iver-side, nes were of giving tance in and (ex- Kus bee» AND ROUND THE WORLD. 91 related) the only insult offered to an mdivi- dual wa?, when Mr. Monkhouse, the sur- geon, took a flower from a tree which grew in one of their sepulchral inclosures. Upon this occasion, an Indian came suddenly be- hind him and struck him ; Mr. Monkhouse laid hold of the assailant, but two ot his countiymen rescued him, and then they ail ran offas fast as they could. On the 19th, in the evening, whde the ca- noes were still detained, Oberea and several of her attendants paid us a visit. She came from Tootahdi's palace, in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread-fruit, and other presents, among which was a dog ; but not a single article of the things that had been stolen : these she said had been taken away by lier favourite Obadee, whom she had beaten and dismissed. She seemed, however, conscious that her stoij did not deserve credit, and appeared at first much terrified ; though she surmounted her fears with great fortitude, and was desirous of sleeping with her attendants in Mr. Banks's tent ; but this being refused, she was oblig- ed to pass the night in her canoe. A whole tribe of Indians would have slept in the ball tent, but were not permitted. The next morning Oberea returned, putting herself wholly in our power, when we accepted of her presents, which she doubtless thought, and justly too, the most effectual means to bring about a reconciliation. Two of her attendants were very assiduous in getting thein<;elves husbands, in which they suc- ceeded, by means of the surgeon and one of the lieutenants : they seemed very agreea- ble till bed-time, and determined to lie in Mr. Banks's tent, which they accordingly did, till the surgeon having some words witn one of them, Mr. Banks thrust her out, and she was followed by the rest, except Otea- Tea, who cried some time, and then he turn- ed her out also. This had like to have be- come a serious affair, a duel being talked of between Mr. Banks and Mr. Monkhouse, but it was happily avoided. We had been informed, that in this island dogs were - teemed more delicate food than pork, as those bred by the natives to he eaten, fed entirely upon vegetables. The experiment was tried. Tupia rnidertosk to kHt and dress the dog, which he did, by makiilg a hole in the ground, and baking it. We all agreed it was a very good dish. On the 21st, we were visited by many of the natives, who brought with them various presents. Among the rest was a chief, nam- ed Oamo, whom we had not yet seen. He had a boy and a young woman with him. The former was carried on. a man's back* which we considered as a piece of state, for he was well able to walk. Oberea and some of the indians went from the fort to meet them, being bare-headed, and uncovered an low as the waist ; circumstances we had no^ ticed before, and judged them marks of res- pect, which was usually shewn to persons of nigh rank. When Oamo entered the tent, the young woman, though seemingly very curious, could not be prevailed upon to ac- conipany him. The youth was introduced by Dr. Solander, but as soon as the indians within saw him, they took care to have him sent out. Our curiosity bein^ raised by these circumstances, we made inquiry con- cerning the strangers, and were informed, that Oamo was the husband of Oberea, but that by mutual consent they had been for a considerable thne separated, and the boy and girl were their children. The former was called Terridiri : he was heir apparent to the sovereignty of the islands, and when he had attained the proper age, was to marry his sister. The present sovereign, Outou, was a minor, and the son of a prince, called Whappai. Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahab, were all brothers ; Whappai was the eldest, and Oamo the second ; wherefore, Whappai haying no child but Outou, Terridiri wa'^ heir to the sovereignty. To us it appeared .singular, that a boy should reign during the life of his father; but in the island of'Ota- heite, a boy succeeds to his father's authority and title as soon as he is born ; but a regent being necessary, that oflice, though elective, generally falls upon the father, wlio holds the reins of government till the chil'l i> of age. The reason that the election had fallen \\\ioi\ Todtahah, was on account of his warlike exploits among his brethren. Oamo was very inquisitive, asking' a number Fft»J!a na VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, i I M of (]uest'i()ns cenc«rning' the English, by which he. appeared to be a man of under - standin!^ aiid penetration. At this time, a •woman!^ named Teetee, who came from the west of the island, presented to the Captain an elegant garment. The ground was a blight yellow, it was bordered with red, and there were several crosses in the middle of it, which they had probably learned from the French. On the 'iSd, in the morning, one of our hands being missing, we inquired for him among the natives, and were fold he was at Eparre, Tootahah's residence m the wood, and one of the Indians offered to fetch him back, which he did that evening. On his return he informed us, that he had been ta- ken from the fort, ami carried to the top of the bay by three men, who forced him mto a caiK>e, after having stripped him^ and con^ ducted him to Eparre, where he received some clothes from Tootahah, who endea- voured to prevail on him to continue there. We had reason to conclude this account true ; for the natives were no sooner ac- (juainted with his return, than they left the fort with precipitation. On June the 26th, early in the morning, Capt. Cook setting out in the pinnace with Mr. Banks, sailed to the eastward with a design of circumnavigating the island. They went on shore in the forenoon, in a district in the government of Ahio, a young chief, who at the tents had frequently been their visitant. And here also they saw several other natives whom they knew. Afterwards they proceeded to the harbour where M. Bougainville's vessel lay, when he came to Otaheite, and were shewn the watering place, and the spot where he pitched his tent. Coming to a large bay, when the English gentlemen mentioned their design of going to the other side , their Indian guide, whose name was Titubaola, said he would not ac- company them, and also endeavoured to dissjiade the Captain and his people from going ; observing " That country was inha- bited by people who were not subject to Tootahah, and who would destroy them all." Notwithstanding, they resolved to put 8 their desi^ into execution, loading their pieces with ball ; and at fast Titubaole ven- tured to go with them. Having rowed till it was dark, they reached a narrow isthmus which severed the island in two parts, and these formed distinct governments. How- ever, as tliey had not .yet got into the hostile part of the country, it was thought proper to go on shore to spend the night where Ooratova, the lady >vho had paid her com- pliments in so extraordinary a manner at the fort, provided them with a supper, and they proceeded for the other government in the morning. They afterwards landed in the district of a chief, called Maraitata, and his father was called Pahairede. The form er of these names signifies the'burying place of men, and the other the stealer of boats. These people gave the Captain a very good reception, sold them a hog for a hatchet, and furnished them with provisions. A crowd of the natives came round the Eng- lish gentlemen, amongst whom however they met only two with whom they wereacquaint- ed ; but they saw several European commo- dities, yet they perceived none tliat came out of the Endeavour. Here they saw two twelve Eound shot, one of which had the king's road arrow upon it, yet the natives said they had them from M. Bouir^ainville. They afte; wards advanced till they reached that district which was under the govern- ment of Waheatua, who had a son : it was not known in whose hands the sovereign power was deposited. There they found a spacious plain with a river, which they were oolis^ed to pass over in a canoe, though the Indians that followed them swam over with- out any difficulty. . They proceeded on their journey for a considerable way along the shore, till at last they were met by the chief, who had with him an agreeable woman, of about twenty-two years of age, who was call- ed Toudidde. Her name was not unknown to the English, who had often heard ofit; and she was supposed to bear the same rank here as Oberea bore in the other part.of the island. The parts through wliicn they now passed, appeared to be better cultivated than any of the rest, and the burial places were more in number. They were neat, and AND ROITND THE WORLD. dd adiiiff iheir ubaole ven- rowed till •ow isthmus t parts, and nts. How- ■> the hostile isfht proper light where d her corn- manner at supper, aiid vernment in s landed in raitata, and The form uryin^ place er of boats, a very good r a hatchet, jvisions. A id the Eng- lowever they ereacquaint- )ean commo- lat came out IV two twelve d the kinsf's natives said our'ainvilie. ley reached the govern- son : it w as le sovereign ley foundfa ch they were though the m over with- ded on their along the, jy the chief, woman, oC I'ho was call- ot unknown heard of it ; e same rank r part.of the en they now Itivated than places were •e neat, and y oniamented with carvings; and in one a cock was seen, which was painted with the various colours of the bird. Though the country was apparently fertile, very little bread-fruit was to be lound here, a nut call- ed Ahee, furnishing the principal subsistence of the inhabitants. IJeing fatigued with their journey, they went on board their boat, and landed in the evening on an island which was called Otooa- reite, to seek for refreshment. Mr. Banks going into the woods for lliis purpose, whta it was dark could discover only one house, wherein he found some of the nuts before mentioned, and a^ little bread-iVuit. There was a good harbour in the southern part of this island, and the surrouiujing country aj)- peared to be extremely fruitful. Landing at about three miles distance they found some of the natives whom they well knew, yet it was not without ditKculty that tliey obtained a few cocoa-nuts before they de- parted. • When they came a little farther to the eastward, they landed again, and here they were met by Mathiabo, the chief, with whom they were not at all acquainted. He supplied them with bread-fruit and cocoa- nuts, and they purchased a hog of him i'or a glass bottle, which he chose in preference to all the other articles presented before him. A turkey-cock and a goose were seen here, which were much .admired by the motives, and were supposed to have been left there by Capt. Wailis's people. They observed in a house near the same place several hu- man jaw-bones, which seemed fresh, and had not lost any of the teeth, and were fas- tened to a board, of a semicircular figure ; but they could not get any information of the cause of this extraordinary appearance. When they left the place, the chief piloted them over the shoals. In the evening they opened the bay on the north-west side of the island, which answered to that on the south-east in such a manner as to intersect it at the isthmus. Several canoes came otY here, and some beautiful women giving to- kens that they should be glad to see them on shore, they readily accepted the invita- tion. They met with a Very friendly recep- tion from the chief whose name was Wiverou No. 3. F who gave directions to some of his people to assist them in dressing their provisinis, which were now very plentiful, and they supped at Wiverou's house in company with Mathiabo. Part of the house was al- lotted for thcin to sleep in, and soon after supper they retireil to rest. Mathiabo hav- ing borrowed a cloak of Mr. Banks, un'. Banks were greatly astonish- ed at this ace ant, and ran to the water-side; but though it >vas a clear star-light morning, no boat was to be seen. Their situation was now extremely disagreeable. The party consisted of no more than four, having with them only one musquet and two pocket pistols, without a spare ball .or, a charge of powder. Alter haying remained some time ill a state of anxiety, arising from these cir* cumstances, of which they feared the In- dians might take advantage, the boat which had been driven away by the tide, returned ; and Mr. Banks and his companions had no sooner breakfasted than they departed. This plaoeis situated on the north side ofTiarra- bou, the south-east peninsula of the island, about live miles east from the isthmus, with a harbour equal to any in those parts. It was fertile and populous, and the inhabi- tants eycvy where behaved with great ci- vility. The last district in Tiarrabou, in which they landed, was governed by a chief named Onioe. He was then building a house, and was very earnest to purchase a hatchet, but the gentlemen had not one left. He would rrot trade for nails, and tliey embarked, the chief, however, following them in his cano« ' 'm ^'i t' M 34 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, with his wife. Tliey were afterwards tfiken on board, but when they had sailed about 9. league, desired to be ])ut on shore. Their request m as complied with, when the Cap- tain met with some of Omoe's people, m no broui^ht with them a very lar^e hog. The chief a2:reed to oxchau?>:ethe hog- for an ji\e and a nail, and to bring' the beast to the fort. As the hojr was a verv iine one, Mr. Banks accejjled the oftlr. 'I'hey saw at this i)lace one «H"the Indian Eatuas, a sort of image, r.uule of M icker-work, which reseml*leil a man in figure ; it Mas near seven feet in height, and was covered with black and ^vhite feathers ; on the head were four i)ro- tabeixinces, called by the natives Tata-ete, that is, little men. Having taken theirleave of Omoe. the gentlemen set out on their return. They went on shore again, after they had rowed a few miles, but saw nothing except a sepulchral building, which was or- namented in an extraordinary manner. The pavement, on which was erected a pyramid, was very neat ; at a small distance there was a stone image, veiy uncouthly carved, but which the natives seemed to hold in high estimation. They passed through the harbour which was the only one lit for ship- ping, on the south of Ojjoureonou, situate about five miles to the westward of the isth- mus, between two small islands, not far from the shore, and within a mile of each other, 'j'hey were now near the district called Paparra, which was that where Oamo and Oberea governed, and where the travellers intended to spend the night. But when Mr. Banks and his conjpany landed, about an hour before it Mas dark, it appeared they were botji set out to pay them a visit at the foit. However, they slept at ()i)erea'.s house, which vva'j neat, though not la./e. and of wli'ch Ihe-^e was no inhabitant l'undation consisted of rock stones; the ste])s m ere of coral, and the upper part Mas of round pelddes, all of the same shape and size. The ro('k and coral-stones were squared with the utmost neatness and regu- larity, and the whole building ajipeared as compact and firm as if it had been erected by the best workmen in Europe. Whatren dered this last circumstance the more extra- ordinary, was the consideration that when this i»ile was raised, the Indians must have been totally destitute of iron tools either to shape their stones, (u* for any other necessary purpose, nor had they mortar to cement them when made fit for use ; so that a structure of such height and magnitude mu.st have been a work of infinite labour and fatigue. In the centre of the summit was the rej>resen- tation of a bird carved in wood ; close to this was the figure of a fish in stone. The pyra(» mid constituted part of one side of a court or square, the sides of which were nearly equal ; and the whole was walled in and paved with flat stones, notwithstanding which pavement, several idantains, and trees which the natives call Etoa, grew with- in the inclosure. At a small distance to the westward of this edifice was another paved square that contained several small stages, called Ewattas by the natives ; which ap- ])eared to be altars, whereon they placed the oflerings to their gods. Mr. Banks af- terwards observed whole hogs j)laced upon these stages or altars. On Friday the iiOth, thev arrived at Ota- horou, where they found tfteir old acquain- tance Tootahali, who received them with great civilty, and ])rovided them a good sufiper and convenient lodiiiug ; and though they had been so shaniefully phmdeted the last time they slept with this chief, they spent the night in tlie greatest <^eeurity, none of their clothes nor any other article being missing the next moriiii»g. They returned to the fort at Port lloyul Harbour twi the AND ROUND THE VTORLD. ar ictiire m nous pile apyra- side. It third as ttt hii^li. L stones ; )per part [le shape mes were lid retju- •eared as I erected rVhat ren •re extra- lat when lUst have either to necessary lent them nicture of lave been igue. In rej)resen- ose to this riie pyrac f a court re nearly in and istanding lins, and rew with- ice to the er paved stages, hich ap- y placed anKs af- ed upon (1 at Ota. acqnain- lem with a good d t hough eied Ihe lief", Ihey rity, none :le being returned r Oil the first of July, havinj? discovered the island, huluding boih ^)fninsulas, to be about 100 miles in cirfMUiiterence. Alter tlieir return from this tour, tliey were very much in wantot bread-lruit none of which they had been able to provide themselveswith, iisthey had seen but little in the coinse of their journey ; but their Indian friends coming round them, soon supplied their want of provisions. On the 3rd, Mr. Banks made an exclusion, in order to trace the river up the valley to its source, and to remark how tiir the coun- try was inhabited along the banks of it. He took some Indian guides with him, and after having seen houses for about six miles, they came to one whi(;h was said to be the last that could be met with. The master presented them with cocoa-nuts and other fruits, and they proceeded on their walk, after a short stay. They often passed through vaults formed by rocky fragments in the course of their journey, in which, as they were told, benighted travellers sometimes took .shelter. Pursuing the course of the river about six miles farther, they found it banked on both sides by rocks almost KM) feet in height, and nearly perpendicnl tr ; away however, might be traced up these preci])ices, along which their Indian guides would have conducted them, but they de- clined the otfer, us there did not a;i[)ear to be any thing at the summit which could re])ay them tor the toil and dangers of as- cending them. IMr. Bai * . sontjhtinvain for minerals among the rocks, which were na- ked almost (m all sides, but no mineral substances were tound. 'J'lie stolies every where exhibited signs «)f having been burnt, which wa'< the case of all the stones that were found while they staid at Otaheite ; and both there and in the neighbouring islands the traces of lire were evident in the clay upon the hills. On the 4th, a great quan- tity of the see\ ith the company of the Indian, who had bteii so dextrous as to steal the (juadrant, as above related. The carjienters being ordered to take down tlie gates and pallisadoe< of the fort, to be converted i'lto tire-woo' rthe Endeavour, one of the natives stole - staple and hook <»f the gate ; he was pursued in vain, but the property was afterwards recovered, and returned to the owners by Tubourai Tamaide. Before their de[)arture, two circumstances happened which gave Capt. Cook some un- easiness. The iirst was, that two foreign .sailors having been abroad, one of them was robbed of his knife, which as he was endea- vouring to recover, he was dangerously hurt with a stone by the natives, and his com panion also received a slight wound in the head. The otienders escaped, and the Cap* tain was not anxious to have them taken, as he did not want to have any disputes with the Indians. Between the 8th, and 9th, two young ma- rines ont night withdrew themselves from the fort, and in the morning were not to be met with. Ts'otice having been given the next day that the ship would sail that or the ensuing day ; us they did not return, Capt. , Cook began to be ai>prehensive that they designed to remain on shore ; but as he was apjirised in such a case, no etlectual means could betaken to recover them without run- ning a risque of (le<=troying the harmony subsistnig between the English and the na* fives, he resolved to wait a day, in hopes of their returniim- of their own accord. But as they were still missing on the tenth in the morning, an inquiry was made after them, when the Indians declared, that tliey did otprojjose to return, having- taken refuge a 1* :u VOYAGE TO I'm: SOUTH SEAS, iunongf the inountains where it was imnossi- Itlc t'urthem to be discovered; and added, that each of them hud taken a wife. In <(>nse(jncnce of this, it was intimated to seve- ral of the chiefs that were in the fort with tlie women, among whom wliere Tidmurai Tamaide, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not be suffered to quit it till the de- serters were ]>roduced. Tliey did not shew any si!»ns of fear or discontent, but assured the Captain that the marines should be sent back. In the mean time Mr. Hicks was dispatched in the pinnace to bring Tootahali on board the ship, and he executed his com- mission without jrivinu: any alarm. Nij^ht comiuj? on, Capt. Cook thoupjht it not pru- dent to let the people, whom he had detain- ed as hostages, remain at the fort ; he there- fore i>ave orders to remove them on board, Avhich greatlv ' trmed them all, especially the iemales who testified the most gloomy apprehensions by floods of tears. Capt. Cook escorted Oberea and others to the ship; but Mr. Banks remained on shore with some Indians, whom he thought it of less importance to detain. In the evening" one of the marines was brought back by some of the natives, who reported tha*; the other, and two of our men who went to recover them would be detained while Tootahah tVas confined. Ui)on this Mr. Hicks was immediately sentofi'in the long boat, with a stroncT body of men to rescue the prison- ers ; at the same time the Captain told Too- tahah, that it was incuml)eiit on him to as- sist them with some of his people, and to i?ive orders in his name, that the uien shou'd be set at liberty ;.for that he would ])e e\- ])ecJed to answer for the event. Tootahah nnmediately complied, and this party releas- ed the men witho >t any opposition. Oil the llth, about seven in the morning" they returned, but without the arms that ha(l been tak«m from them when they were made prisoners ; these, however being" re- stored soon after the chiefs on board were allowed to return, and those who had been detained ^n shore were also set at liberty. On exaainnig the deserters it appeared, that the Indians had told the truth, they having- <:ihosen two girls, with whom they 4 woukl have remained in the island At this time the power of Oberea wa.s not so great as it was when the Dolphin first dis> covered the Island. Tupia, wnose name has been often mentioned in this voyage, had been her prime minister. He was also the chief priest, consequently well acquainted with the relig'ionof the country. He had a knowledge of navigation, and was thorough- ly acquainted vvitli the number, situation, and inhabitants of the adjacent islands. This chief had often expressed a desire to go with us when we continued our voyage. On the 12th, in the morning he came on board with a, boy about twelve years of age, his servant, named Taiyota, and requested the gentlemen on board, to let hira go with him. As we thought he would be useful to us in many particulars, we unanimously agreed to comply with his request. Tupia then- went on shore for the last time to bid farewell to liis friends, to whom he gave se- veral baubles as parting tokens of emem- brance. Mr. Banks, after dinner, being willing to obtain a drawing of the Morai, which Too- tahah had in his possession at Eparre, Capt. Cook nccompanied him thither in the pin- nace, together with Dr. Solander. Iney innnediately upon landing repaired to Too- tahah's house, where they were met by Obe- rea aiul several others. A general good understanding" prevailed. Tupia came back with them, an(l they promised to visit the gentlemen early the next day, as they were told the ship would then sail. On the 13th, these friendly people came very early on board, and the snip was sur- rounded with avast number of canoes, filled witli Indians of the lower sort. Between eleven and twelve we weighed anchor; and notwithstanding all the liltle misunder- itandings between the English and the na- 1 ives, the latter, who possessed a great fund of i^ood nature, and much sensibility, took their leave, weeping in an afiectionate man- ner. As to Tupia he supported himself through this scene with a becoming forti- tude. Tears flowed from his eyes, it is true, but the efJbrt that he made to conceal theia diid him an additional honour. He went tounr] tile, AND ROUND THE WORLD. ;J7 d At not so rst dis- ime has sfe, had ilso the uainted e had a oroiigh- itnation* islands. lesire to voyage, came on 5 of age, jquested go with e useful dniously Tupia e to bid gave se- emem- illing to ch Too- re, Capt. the pin- lliey to l^oo- by Obe- al good me back k^isit the ey wer« 1e came was sur- e«, filled letvveen or; and isunder- tlie na- ;at fund ty, took ;e man- himself g forti- is true, I theiu ,e went with Mr. Banks to the mist head, and wav- try. Thus we departed from Otalieite, after inff his hand, took a last farewell of his coun- a stay of just three months. CHAP. V. An historical and descriptive account of Otaheite ; Of the Island, and its productions ; Of the inha- hitanft; Tlieirdrest; Dwellings ; Matiner of living ; Diversions ; Mamifaclures ; Arts; Sciences, Jjanguage ; Diseases ; Religious ceremonies ; and government. J|ORT Royal bay, in the island of Ota- heite, as settled by Capt. Wallis, we nd to be within half a degree of its real rituation; and point Venus, the northern t«tremity of this island, and the eastern part *irthe bay, lies in 149 Aes;. 30 niin. longitude. A reef of coral rock surrounds the island, forming several excellent bays, among which, and equal to the best of them, is Port Reyal. This bay, called by the natives Matavai, may easily be discovered by a re- nltrkable high mountain in the centre of tite island, bearing due south from i)oint Vinus. To sail into it, either keep the west IK>in-t of the reef that lies before point Venus, close on board, or give it a birth of near half a mile, in order to avoid a small shoal of cOral rocks, whereon there is but two fathom and an half of water. The most proper ground for anchoring is on the eastern side df the bay. The sliore is a fine sandy beach, bcfiiud which runs a river of fresh water, Vjjry convenient for a fleet of ships. The di^Iv wood for firing upon the whole island ii|tliat of fruit trees, which must be purchas- of the natives, or it is impossible to live friendly terms with them. The face of J country is very uneven. It rises in |ges that run up into the middle of the is- fid, where they form mountains which ^y be seen at the distance of sixty miles, itween these ridges and the sea is a border |low land of different breadths in different ts, but not exceeding any where a mile J a half. The soil being watered by a mber of excellent rivulets, is extremely tile, and coyered with various kinds of fruit trees, which form almost one continued wood. Even the tops of the ridges are not without their produce in some parfs. The only parts of tlie island that are inhabited, are the low lands, lying between the foot of the ridpres and the sea. The houses do not form villages, but are ranged along the whole border, at about fifty yards distant from each other. Before them are little groups of the plantain trees, which furnish them with cloth. According to Tupia's account, tliis island could furnish above six (housand fighting men. The i)roduce is bread-fruit, cocoa nuts, bananas, sweet potatoes, yams, jambu, a delicious fruit, sugar-cane, the paper mulberry, several sorts of figs, with many other plants and trees, all which the earth produces spontaneously, or with little culture. But here are no European fruit, garden-stutt', pulse, nor grain of any kind. The tame animals are hogs, dogs, and jjoul- try ; the wild ducks, pigeons, paroquets, and a few otfjer birds. The only rei>- tiles are rats, and not a serpent is to be found. In the sea is a great variety of ex- cellent fish, which constitutes their chief luxury, and to catch them their chief em- ployment. Ihe people in general are of a larger make than the Europeans. The males are mostly tall, robust, and finely shaped ; the women of the higher olass about the size of our English ladies, but those of inferior rank are below our standard, and some of them very short. Their natural complexion is a fine clear olive, or what we call a brunett, their skin delicately smooth and agreeably ,'M \4 S8 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, soft. Their ftices in general are handsome, uiu\ their eyes lull of strisihilily. Tluir tvx'ih siie niiiarlvuhly uliile :iiui retiular, their huir for (he most part hlack, and (heir lireath is entirely iree from any disa^Tfea- ble smell. Ihe nw n, unlike tlie ori'^inal in- hahilaiils cf America, have Ion;;' heards, whieli ihey A\ear in variojis shapes, (.'ir- rnmeision is licnerally )iaetised amoni; them from a motive of elian iness, and they have a term of reproach wit » which they njihraid those who do not ado|)t tiiis custom. Jloth sexes always eradicate tlie hair from their arm-i)its, and they reproached our fientle- men >\ith want of cleanliness; their mo- ti«ms are easy and ji^racefnl, and »heir beha- viour, when nnj)rovoked, alt'ahle and cour- teous. Contrary to the custoni of most ©ther nations, the women of J his country cut their hair short, whereas the men wear it'loni^', sometimes hantfiny," loose upon their shoulders, at other times tied in a knot on the crown of the head in whicli they stick the feathers of binis of various colours. A piece of clotli of the manufacture of JJie country, is frequently tied round the head of both sexes in the manner of a turban, and the women plait very curiously human hair into long' strings, which beinj^ folded into branches, are tied on their foreheads by way of ornament. They have a custoui practised in many liot coiuitries, of anoint- ing* their hair with cocoa-nut oil, the smell of which is not very agreeable, liaving", among' their various inventions no .sorts of oombs, they w(ire infested witli vermin, which tliey cjuivkly got rid of when fur- nished with those convenient instruments. They stain their bodies by indenting" or prickini? the flesh with a small instrument made of bone, cut into short teeth, which indentures they till with a dark blue or blackish mixture, jjrejyued from the smoke of an oily nnt (burnt by them instead of candles) and water I'his oj)eration, called by the natives Tdttao\\ ing-, is exceeding'ly painfid, and haves an indelible mark on the skin. It is usually j>erf«»rmed when they are about ten or twelve years of ag"e, and on ther, ami their hemt coining- through the holes, the long em. hang' before and behind, both- sides beiii, oj)en, by ^>hich means they have the fit use of their arms. The men's dress is very similar, ditTeiii:, only in this instance, that one j>art of tl garment instead of falling' below the kiut IS brought between the legs, lliis dresv \yorn by all ranks of people, the only di?' tinction being- (juantity in the supr ' class. naked, weanng' oidy a i)i tie»;esen (^y sewed to'.'( ior class wi i Ihich is of ('(II several tiiiii Is down to ll u'ee other slid middle of eat; lui their hem tlie lon!^ eiui til- sides bek have the fit Imilar, difTevii liie i>art of ll lowthe kiutj^gj^^,,, 'lias dres. jj^ ,the only 'lii,, the sn|;C appear a'mi' 41. f flothtiial^J faces are sli^ bonnets, nii Itinu-, whicli iii |tes^ 'I'he Hie; kg of human stiings wt»vt; on a .<t seldom, he divides it efjually among hiftvassals. Dogs ami fowis are nmre com- nji^ food. Wicn the bread-fruit is not in cocoa-nuts, bananas, nlantains, &c. sulisliiiited in its stead. Tney bake their d-fr;!if in a manner w]ii<:h renders it ewliat like a mealy |)otatoe. Of this e ilishes are made, by beating- them up 1 l>a'.ana«. |)lanlains, or sour paste, whi(;h lied by them iMahie, ur paste is made by taking bread-fruit horouerhly ripe, and laying it in heaps red with leaves, by which means it fer- Xs. The core is then taken out, and the fniit jmt into a hole lined with !jra'ements, between sun-set and bed-time ; duriu:;;' \vhv;h interval they burn candles made of an r>ily nut, fixing them one above anotlier upon a small stick that i's run through the middle : some jf these eandles will burn ;i long time, jnid aiford a preity good !ii>lit. Among other ivmnse- ments, they have a dance t;alle!( Timorodee, which is generally performed by ten or a tlozen young females, who put themselves into the most wanton attitudes, keeping ti;iie during the perlbrmance with the great- est nicety and exactness. Pregnant women are ex(;!nst(ln it it may 1' taken from the ground without breaking. After this process, it is laid on a smooth board, and beoten with an instrument made for the purpose, of the compact heavy wood called Etoa. The instrument is about four- teen inches long, and about seven in circum- ference ; is of a quadrangular shape, and each of the four sides is marked \yith lon- gitudinal grooves or furrows, diflering in this instance, that there is a regular grada- tion in the width and depth of the grooves on each of the sides ; the coarser side not containing more than ten of these furrows, while the finest is furnished with above fifty. It is with that side of the mailet where the grooves are deepest and widest that ihey begin to beat their cloth, and proceeding regularly, finish with that which lias the greatest number. By this beating, the cloth is extended in a manner similar to the gold that is formed into leaves by the hammer ; and it is also marked with small channels resembling those which are visible on paper, but rather deeper ; it is in gene- ral beat very thin ; when they want it thicker than common, they take two or three jpieces and paste them together with akindof^lue preptired from a root called Pea. This clotn becomes exceedingly white by bleaching, and is dyed of a red, yellow, brown, or Idack colour ; the first is exceed- ing beautiful, and equal, if not suprrior to any in Europe. They make the red colour from a mixture of the juices of two vegeta- bles, neither of which used sefjarately has t his effect : matting of various kinds is ano- ther considerable manufacture in which tfiey excel, in many respects, the Europeans. They make use of the coarser sort to sleep on, and in wet weather they wear the finer. They excel in the basket and wicker-work ; both men and women employ themselves at it, and v^an make a great number of differ- ent patterns. They make ropes and lines of all sizes of the bark of the Poerou, and their nets for fishing are made of these lines ; the fibres of the cocoa-nut they make thread of, such as they use to fasten toge- ther the several parts of their canoes ; the forms of which are various, according to the r«e *f these moons, beginninjf again when they are expired. 2 This proves that they have some idea of the solar year ; but these gentlemen could not discover how they com])nted their months, to make thirteen equal to the year, as they said these months consisted of twen- ty-nine days, one day in which the moon was invisible being included. They how- ever, knew the prevailing weather that was to be expected, as well as the fruits which would be in .season. As to the day, they divide it into twelve equal parts, six of which belong to the day, and the other .six to the night. When they numerate, they reckon from one to ten, making use of their fingers, and changing hands, till they come to tlie number 'which they intended to express ; and joining expressive signs to their words, in the course of their conversation. But they are not so expert in measuring dis- tances, for when they attempt describing the space between one place and another, thef are obliged to express it by the time that would be taken in passing it. With regard to their language, it is soft, as it abounds with vowels," and easy to be pronounced ; but very few oftheir nouns or verbs being declinable, it must consequently be rather imperfect. However, we found means to be mutually understood without much difficulty. The following specimen will possibly enable the reader to form somt notion of the language of these islanders. Aheine, a woman Aihoo, n ganneni Ainao, take care Aree, « chirf Aouna, to-dai/ Aoy, water Eahoo, the nose Eawow, to scold Eei, to eat Eeyo, look you Emoto, to box Epanoo, a drum Epeenei,«« echo Epehe, a song Erowroo, the head Huaheine, a v-if'e Ttopa, <«./a// Kipoo a meemhee, a chamber-pot Mahana, a day Marroowhai, dry Ma tan, t!,? eye$ Matte roah, to die Mayneenee, to lickU Meyoooo, the nails Midee, a child Mutee, a kiss Myty, good Neeheeo, goodnight Oboboa, to-morrow Oowhau, the thighs Ore'dehaiya, a largt nail Ore'eeteea, a small nail Otaowa, yesterday^ lea of could their ! year, ' twen- moon ' how- at was wliich h they ' which to the reckon fingers, to the xpress ; • words, I. But ing dis- jing the Br, the:f me that is soft, jy to be louns or ?qiiently e found witliout pecimen rm somt ders. [to die to tickle [e tmils U ^dvight {ntyrrow thiiihs a larg* a small \erdi*y AND ROUND THE WORLD. Pahie, a ship Parawei, a shirt Poa, a night Poe, car-rings Tane, a husband Tattate Iiommanne maitai a good-na tared person Tea, ivhite 43 Teine, « brother two situations differing in the degrees of Tooaheine, a sister happiness, which they consider as recepta- Tooanahoe, yo« and I cles for different ranks, but not as places of Toonoah, a mole iu the rewards and punishments. Their notion is, skiji Tnmatau, a bonnet WahoAyJire Waow, /. The natives of tliis country are seldom afflicted with any diseases except some- times an accidental fit of the cholic ; but that the chiefs and principal people will have the preference to those of lover ranks. For as to their actions they cannot conceive them to influence their future state, as they believe the deity takes no cognizance of them. The office of priest is hereditaiy ; there are several of them of all ranks ; the chief is respected next to their kings ; and they are in general vsuperior to the natives, they are subject to the erisypelas, attended not only in point of divine knowledge, but with cutaneous eruptions somewhat resemb- also in that of astronomy and navigation, ling the leprosy; and if they have it to any They are not at all concerned with the ce- ' ' ^11 remony of marriage, which is only a simple agreement between the man and the wo- man, and when they choose to separate, the matter is accomplished with as little cere- mony as was thought necessary to bring them together. These jieople do not appear to worship images of anv kind; but they it awe and hu- mcovered to the considerable degree, they s^ie excluded from society a'^d live alone, in a small house in some unfi The managemt priests, whose rally of prayer, repeated till 1 uented part of the island, of the sick belongs to the ^Hjd of cure consists gene- 1 ceremonies which are ._^ . recover or die. If the former happens, it is attributed to their mode enter their Morais with gi of proceecling; if the patient dies, then they mility, their bodies beiny urge that the disease was incurable. waist when they bring then offering to their The religion of these islanders appears to altar. be very mysterious ; and as the language As to tlieiV form of government, there is adapted to it, was different from that which a sort of subordination among them which was spoken on Mier occasions, we were not resembles the early state of all the nations able to gain m. kn(»wledge of it. Tupia < 'Europe when under i lie feudal systen., who gave us all the information that w« which reserved authority to a small num- got in regard to this parti, ular, informed us, ber putting the rest entirely in their power, that his countrymen imagined every 'hing The ranks of the people of this island were in the creation to proceed from the eon- these, Earee Rahie. signifying a king or junction of two persons. One of these tw snnre'me governor ; Earee, answering to the first (being the supreme deity) thev called title of baron; Mannahoonies, to that of "' . - . .t. vassal; and Toutou, vmder which name was included the lowest orders of the people, such as are called villains according to the old law term. The Earee Rahie, of which there are two here, one belonging to eaclj peninsula, had great res])ect shewn them by all ranks. Tlie Earees are lords of one or more of the districts, irf^ which these governments are divided ; h i they sepa- rate their territories into lots, which arip I Taroataihetoonio, and the other 1 apapa ; and the year which they «.'alled Tettowma- tatayo, they suppose to be the daughter of these two. They also imagine an infe' tr sort of deities, known by the name of F luis, two of whom, they say formerly inhal>.icd the earth, and they suppose that the first man and woman descended from them. The Su- preme Being they stile " The causer of earthquakes ;" but more frequently address their prayers to Tane, whom they conceive given among the Manahoonies, who respec- to be a son of the first progenitors of nature, tively cultivate the share that they hold They believe in the existence of the soul in under the baron. But they are only nomi- A separate state, and suppose that there are nal cultivator; thiS) as well as all othcv 3 44 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, Im laibonous vrork, being done by the Toutou, or lower class of the people. The sovereign, or Earee llahie, and the baron, or Earee, are succeeded in titles and honours by their ciiildren, as soon as they are born ; but their estates remain in their possession, and sub- ject to the management of their parents. Every district under the command of an Earee furnishes a proportionate number of fighting men, for the defence of the common cause, in case of a general attack ; and tliey are all subject to the command of the Earee lUthie. Their weapons consist of slings in the use of which they are very dextrous, and of long clubs remarkably hard, with which they fight obstinately and cruelly, giving no quarter to their enemies in time of battle. While we staid at Otalieite there was a good understanding between the Earees of the two peninsulas, though it seems that the Earee of Tearrebau called himself king of the whole island ; this was a mere nomi- nal claim, and was considered as such by the inhabitants. There is not any thing among them substituted for money, or a general medium by which every desirable •bject may be purchased or procured : nei- ther can any permanent good be obtained by force or fraud. The general commerce with women sets aside almost every excite- ment to commit adulterv. In a word, in a government so little polished, though dis- tributive justice cannot be regularly admin- istered ; as, at the same time, there can be but few crimes whereon to exercise it, the want of this justice is not so < verely felt as in more civilized societi''s. Soon after our arrival at lliis island, we were apprised of the natives having the French disease among them. The islanders called it by a name expressive of its effects, observing t*i-^t the hair and naiis of tiiuse who where first infected by it, fell off, and the flesh rotted from the boties, while their countrymen, and even nearest relations, who were unaffected, were so much terrified at its symptoms, that the unhappy sufl^'erer was often forsaken bj^ them, and left to perish in the most horrible conditions. Thus have we given an accurate, full, and complete description of the island in its present state ; we shall only add a few re- marks, which we apprehend may be of use to^ such gentlemen in the navy, who may hereafter have it in their orders to touch at the same. As this island can be useful only by supplying ships with refreshments in their passage through these seas, it might be made to answer fiilly this important end ; European cattle, plants, Garden-stuf}', and the most useful vegetables, would doubtless flourish in so rich a soil. The climate is re- markably fine, the heat is not troublesome, nordo the winds blow constantly from the east. We had frequentlya fresh galefrom the S. W. sometimes, though very seldom from the N. W. We leanit from 1 upia, that soutb westerly winds prevail in October, Novem- ber, and December, and we have no doubt but this is true. At the time the winds are variable, they are always accompanied by a swell from the S. W. or W. S. W. The same swell happens on a calm, and when the atmosphere is loaded with clouds, which shews that the winds are varible, or westerly out at sea ; for with a trade wind the wea- ther is clear. In these parts the trade wind does not extend farther to the south than twenty deurees, beyond which we generally found a gale from the westward. The tides here are perhaps as inconsiderable as in any part of the world. A south or south by west moon makes high water in the harbour of Matavai, and its perpenr westeily the wea- trade wind outh than ffenerally The tides e as in any th by west >arbour of Height sel' CHAP. VI. The Ettdeatour continues her Voyager, Visits the islands in the neighbourhood of Otaheitt; An account of several incidents, and of various particulars relative to the inhabitants j The passage of the Endeavour from Oteroah to New Zealand; Eioents on going ashore, and incidents while the ship lay in Povaty Hay ; Tliis and the adjacent country described; Excursions to Cape Turnagain, and return to Tolaga; The inhabitants descrif>ed, and a narrative of what happened while tre were on that part of the coast ; The range from Tolaga to Mercury Bay; Incidmis that happened on board the Endeavour and as/tore; A description of the country and its fortified villages ; She sails from Mercury Bay lo the Bay of' Islands; A description of the Indians o7i the banks of the river Thames; And of the timber that grows there ; Interviews and skirmishes with the natives on an island, and on dijjerent parts of the coast; Range from the Bay of the Islands round north Cape. ON the 13th, of July, 1768, after leavings the island of Otaheite, we continued our course, with clear weather and a gentle breeze ; and were informed by Tupia, that four islands which he called Haaheine, Ulie- tea, Otaha, and Bolabola, v/ere at the dis tance of about one or two day's sail ; and that hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, very scarce on board, were to be g;ot there in gre^t abundance. He also mentioned an island to the northward, which he called Tethfiroa. It , is situated north half west, eight leagues distant from the northern ex- tremity of Otaheite. It was a small low island, but as Tupia said, without any settled inhabitants. On the 15th, we made but little way, on account of the calms which succeeded the light breezes. Tu^)ia oiten prayed to his god Tane for a wind, and boasted of his success, which indeed he took care to insure, by never appljdng to Tane, till he saw a breeze so near, that ne knew it must reach the ship before his prayer was concluded. On the 16th, we sounded near the north- west part of the island of Huaheine, but found no bottom at 70 fathoms. Several canoes put off; but the Indians seemed fear- ful of coming- near the bark, till the sight of Tupia removed their apprehensions. They then came along side, and the king of the island, with his queen, came on board "Ikbey seemed surprised at whatever was shewn them, but made no inquiries after any thing but what was offered to their notice. After some time they became more familiar ; and the king, whose name was Oree, as a token of amity, proposed exchanging names with Capt. Cook, whicii '.vas readily accepted. We found the people here nearly similar to those ot Otaheite in almost every particular; but, if Tupia might be credited, they are not like them addicted to thieving. Hav- ing anchored in a small, but convenient harbour on the west side of the island, (call- ed by the natives Owparre) we went on shore with Mr. Banks, and some other gentlemen accompanied by the king and Tupia. The moment we landed, Tupia uncovered him- self as low as the waist, and desired Mr. Monkhouse to follow his example. Being seated, he now began a speech, or prayer, which lasted about twenty minutes; the king, who stood opposite to him. answering in what seemed set replies. Duiing this harangue, Tupia delivered, at different times, a handkerclnef, ia black silk neckcloth, some i plantains, and beads, as presents to their ikitua, or deity ; and in return for our Ea- tua, we received a hog, some young plan- tains, and two bunches of feathers, all which were carried on board. These ceremonies were considered as a kind of ratification of a treaty betwtteu us and the king of HuaheiDe. ""^ ' 48 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ! ! (I On the 17tb, w« went again on shore, and made an excursion into tlie country, the productions of which greatly resembled those ofOtaheite; the rocks and clay seemed, in- deed, more burnt; the boat-houses were curious and 'emarkably large. The level part of the country affords the most beauti- ful landscapes thutthe imagination can pos- sibly form an idea of. The soil is exceed- ingly fertile, and the shore is lined with fruit trees of different kinds, particularly the cocoa-nut; however, in some places there were salt swamps and lagoons, which pro- duced neither trees nor plants. On the 18th, we went again on shore, and Tupia being engaged with his friends, we look with us Taiyota, his boy. Mr. Banks proposed taking a more perfect view of a kind of chest, or ark, which he had before observed. The lid of this ark was neatly sewed on, and thatched in a peculiar man- ner with palm-nut leaves. It was placed on two poles, and supported by small carved arches of wood. These poles served to re- move it from one place to anotilier, in the manner of our sedan-chairs. We remarked, that this chest was of a form resembling the ark of the Lord among the Jews; but it is still more remarkable, that, inmiiring of Tu])ia's servant what it was callea, he told us, Ewharre-no-Eatua, the Honse^ of God ; though he could give no account of its mean- ing or use. Our trade with the natives went on slowly; we got, however, eleven pigs, and were not without hopes of obtaining more the next morning. On the 19th, we offered them some hat- rhets, for which we procured three very large hogs. As we intended to sail in the afternoon, king Oree, and others of the na- tives, came on board to take their leave. Capt. Cook presented to Oree a small pew- ter |)late, stamped with this inscription, " His Britannic Majesty's sliip Endeavour, Capt. Cook, commander. July 16, 17Gi)." We gave him also some medals or coun- ters, resembling our English coin, and other trirtes, which he promised to keep in order to remember us. The island of Huaheine lies in 16 deg. 43 niiii. south latitude, and 150 deg. 52 min. west lojigitude ; ab a few new plants, but found a species of the scorpion which he had not before seen. The inhabitants are very lazy, but are stouter and larger made^ than those of Otaheite ; the women very fair, and we thought them liand.some. Both sexes seemed to be less timid and less curious. They made no in- quires when on board the ship, and, when we fired a gun, though a])parently frighted, yet they did not fall down, as our friends at Otaheite constantly did when we came among them ; but it is to be considered, that the former had never experienced its power of di.spen.sing death, ^e now made sail for the island of Ulietea, distant .seven or eight leagues from Huaheine. On the 20tli, l}y the direction of Tupia, we anchored in a bay, formed by a reef, on the north side of the island. Two canoes soon came off from the shore, and the na- tives brought with them two small hogs, which they exchanged for some nails and beads. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and other gentlemen now went on shore, accompanied by Tupia, who introduced them with the same kind of ceremonies Ihat had taken place on their landing at Huaheine ; after which Cant. Co»>k took possession of this and the three neighbouring islands, Hu- aheine, Otaha, and Balabola, in the name of His Britannic Majesty. We then walked to a large Morai, called by the natives Ta- bodeboatea, which we found ditlerent from the sepulchral monuments ofOtaheite, being composed of four walls, about eight or nine feet high, and built of large coral stones, surrounding a court of about 30 feet square. At a small distance we found an altar, or ewhatta, whereupon lay the last oblation, or sacrifice, a hog about eighty pouiui.s weight which had been offered whole, an^VIotli, wc saw ilic meilel of a ^ AND ROUND THE WORLD. 4f I twenty ions are the last ;veral of I onl> a ;s of the re seen, e stouter )taheite ; ht them i> be lesf ide no in- nd, when frighted, friends at we came msidered, enced it» ow made mt seven of Tvipia, a reef, on vo canoes the na- jall hogs, nails and and other |ompanied with th*j ad taken line ; after [)n of this Inds, Hu- the name n walked fives Ta- Irent from ite, being t or nine lal stones, !t square, altar, or Illation, or Is weight land very r or tivo God, to ll. From (?e, wliere icilel of i\ cr.noe, about three feet long, to which where fastened eight human jaw-bones ; we eon- rliuled they were trophies of war ; but Tiipia affirmed they were the jaw-bones of the na- tives of this island. Night now advanced with quick paces, but Mr. Banks and the Doctor contmued their walk along the shore, and saw another Ewharre-no-eatua, also a tree of the fig kind, the trunk of which, (the nature whereof has been already described) was forty-two i>aces in circumference. On the 21st, the master was sent to in- spect the southern part of the island,- and a lieutenant was dispatched in the yawl to sound the harbour where the Endeavour lay; while tiie Captain went in the pin- nace to take a view of that part of the is- land whicli lay to the northward. Mr. Banks and the gentlemen were again on sliore, trading with the natives, and search- ing after the productions and curiosities of the country. They discovered, however, not one particular worthy of notice. The hazy weather and brisk gales pre- vented us from getti; \ under sail, till the 24tli, when we i)ut to sea, and steered north- ward within the leef, towards an opening, at the distance of about five or six leagues, in eflTecting which we were in great danger of striking on a rock, the man who sounded, crying out on a sudden, "Two fathoms," which could not but alarm us greatly ; but either the master was mistaken, or the ship went along the edge of a coral rock, many of which in the neighbourhood of these is- lands are as steep as a wall. The bay where the Endeavour lay at an- chor, called Oopoa, is capacious enough to hold a great number of shipping, and secured from the sea by a reef of rocks. Its situa- tion, is off the eastermostpart of the island. The provisions consist of cocoa-nuts, yams, plantains, and a few, liogs and fowls. The. country round about the place where we landed was not so plentiful as at Otaheite or Huaheine. The southernmost opening in the reef, or channel into the harbour, by • which we entered, is little more than a I cable's length wide; it lies oflf the eastern- J most point of the island, and may be found I by a small woody island, which lies to the south-east of it, called Oatara ; north-west from which are two other islets called Opu- ruru and Tamou. Between these is the channel through which we went out of the harbour, and it is a full quarter of a mile wide. On the 25th, we were within a league or two of^he island of Otoha ; but could not get near enough to land, the wind having proved contrary. In the morning Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went in the long-boat with the master, in order to sound a harbour on the east side of the island, which they found safe and convenient. We then went on shore and purchased a large quantitv of lilantains, and some hogs and fowls. ^The produce of this island was much the same with that of Ulietea, but it seemed to be more barren. We received the same com- l>liment from the Indians here, as was usual for them to ?>ay their own kings, which was by uncovering their shoulders, and wrap- pnig their clothes round their bodies. \Ve made sail to the northward, and at eight o'clock on the 29th, we were under the high peaks of Bolabola. We found the island inaccessible in this part, and likewise that it was iini)ossible to weather the south end of it till late at night. On the 30th, we dis- covered an island which Tupia called Mau- rua, but said it was small, surrounded by a reef, and without and commodious harbour, but inhabited, and yielded nearly the same produce as the adjacent islands. In the middle is a high round hill which may be .seen at eleven or twelve leagues distance. In the afternoon, finding ourselves to wind- w^ardofsome harbour that lay on the west side of Ulietea, we intended to put into one of them, in order to .stop a leak which had sprung in the powder-room, and to take in some, additional ballast. The wind being right against us, we plied on and oW till the afternoon of the first of August, when we came to an anchor in the entrance of the channel, which led into one of the har- bours. On Wednesday the 2nd, in the morning, when the tide turned, we came into a pro- per place for mooring in 28 fathom. Many of the natives came off, and brought hog^^ J I 1 ' ! v> A m.- VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, fowls, iiiid filantaiins, which were mirchased opon very moderate terms. Mr. Banks and l5r. Solander went on shore, and spent th(» day very agreeably ; tlie natives sliewing tliera great respect : bein^" con(hicted to tin; houses of the chiei" peoj>le, thry found those who had ran hastily before them, standing' en each side of a loiiir mat spread upon the ground, and the family sitting^ at the farther end of it. In one house they observed some very young girls tlrtssed in the neatest man- ner, wlio kept their [)laces waiting for the strangers to accost them ; these girls were the most beautiful the gentlemen had ever seen. One of them, about seven or eight years old, was dressed in a red gown, and ner head was decorated with a great quan- tity of idaited hair ; this ornament is called Tamou, and is held in great estimation among them. She was sitting at the upper end of one of their long mats, on which none of the people i>resent j)resumed to set a foot ; and her head was reclined on the arm of a decent looking woman, who appeared to be her nurse ; when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solan- der approache of the itinerant liim' par- lity fioin > a conn- ited hair, ape-jessa- aste, and ! women's iked; the B covered ned close ch breast, of black Thus ap- ?, keeping lie druinst after they ery ^him- lies into a etinies sit- with their J on their fingers at scarcely to however In semen t ot jivionsneps Between fdramatic men, con- ch>Q-; but e of their subject ol >me other [re regular day. The Kere divid- in brown, listinction. Ithem that parts of a |e party in 1 aster hav- it, wlsirli Its : whirii ^dients, ui AND ROITND THE WORLD. 411 endeavourirvg to steal this bp*«k«t, ond tb« brown as many in preveiit-n^ the accom* Elishraent of their desijjfn. Alter some tnne ad been spent in this manner, those to whom the basket was intrusted, layiuff them- selves down on the ground round it, pre- tended to fall asleep ; tlie other party avail- iuL' themselves of this opportunity, stole gently upon them, and carried off their booty, the servants awaking soon after, discovered their loss, but they made no search after the basket, and began to dance with as much alacrity as before. On Saturday the 6th, some hogs and fowls, and several large pieces of cloth, many ot them being fitly or sixty yards in length, together with a quantity of plantains and cocoa-nuts, were sent to Capt. Cook, as a present from the Earee Rahie of the island of Bolabola, accompanied with a message, importing that he was then on the island, and intended waiting on the Captain. On the 6tli, the kin^ of Bolabola did not visit us agreeable to his promise, his absence however, was not in the least regretted, as he sent three young women to demand some- thing in return for his present. After dinner we set out to pay the king a visit on shore, since he did not think proper to come on board. As this man was the Earee Rahie of the Bolabola men, who had conquered this, and were the dread of all the neigh- bouring islands, we were greatly disappoint- ed instead of finding a vigorous enterprising young chief, to see a poor feeble old dotard, half blind, and sinking under the weight of age and infirmities rie received us with- out either that state or ceremony which we had hitherto met with among the other chiefs. On Wednesday the 9th, having stopped a leak, and taken on board a fresh stock of provisions, we sailed out of the harbour. Though we were several leagues distant from the island of Bolabola, Tupia earnestly intreated Capt. Cook, that a shot might be fired towards it ; which to gratify him, the Captain complied with. This was supposed to nave been intended by Tupia as a mark cif his resentment against the inhabitants of that place, as they had formerly taken from H him ]ai^ VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS. if ; 'viij beltind her. Having doubled the point ^here they intended to land, they opened a lar^e bay, and saw another party of the na- tives standing at the end oi it, armed like those whom they haf European com- modities. A single tre^ fo^ned the bottom of their canoes, and the upper part consisted of two planks .sewed together'; these were painted red, representing many uncommon figures, and very curiously wrought. The Indians were armed with bludgeons, made of wood, and of the bone of a large animal : they called themPatoo-Patoo ; and they were well contrived for close fighting. Having finished their traffic, they set ofl^ in such a hurry, that they forgot three of their companions, who remained on board all night. These testified their fears and apprehensions, notwithstanding Tupia took great pains to convince them they were ni no danger ; and abont seven o'clock the next morning a canoe came off, witli four Indians on board. It was at first with difficulty the Indians in the .ship could prevail on tlioso in the canoe to come near them: and not till after the former had assured them, that the English did not eat men. The chicif came on' board, whose face was tattaowed, ■ 'im 4 I AND ROUND TlIE WORLD. 63 we rev \ were es«noe ys, by wit U4 inoin- I'eiiiiiff, , The '»», Kor- fornied the is- '*es, <'a- lepper, »orninjj finding liaving: Toane- m\ the Nick's Iff been Nicho- ere he- fndinn.s il many ^n their D eajxer m coni- bottom nisisted ie were Jininon The made nimal : y were set off liree of board Irs and lia took I'ere m le next [ndians (ity the tho«J<: Ind not ]n, tliat chiiif laowed, with a r»niM*kaV>1e patoo in his hand, and in thif canf»e the tiiree Indians left the shin. Capt. Cook gave the name of Cape Table to a point of IhihI about *even leajnes to ♦he south of Poverty JJay : its i;fi;nre greatly resemblinu^a table; and the ishnid, called by the iratives Tea how ry, he named Port- land fsland, it beint,' very similar to that of the same name in the Hritish Channel. It is joined to the main by", cham of rocks nearly a mile in leng^th, partly svbove water. There aic several shoals, called shambles, about til ree miles to the north-east of Port- land, one of which the Endeavour narrowly escaped ; there is, however a iiassage be- tween them with twenty fathom water. Some parts of Portland Island, as well as the main, were cultivated ; and pumice stone in great quantities lying along the shore, within the bay, indicatetl thaJ; there was a volcano in the island. High ^lalings upon Ihe ridges of hills were also visible in two }>Iaces, which were judged to Le designed or religious purposes. On the 12tn, several Indians came off in a canoe ; they were distigured in a strange , fnanner, danced and sang, and at times fippeared to be peaceably inclined, but at pthers to menace nostilities, Notwithstand- uig Tupia strongly invited them to come on board, none of them would quit the canoe. Whilst the Endeavour was getting^ dear of tlie shambles, five canoes ^11 of Indians made off, and seemed to threaten the people on board, by brandishins^ their lances, and other hostile gestures. A four-pounder load- ed with grape-shot, was tliereff>re ordered to be fired, but not pointed at them. This had the desired effect, and made them drop a stern. Two more canoes came off whilst the Endeav«>ur lay at anchor, but the In- dians on board, behaved very peaceably |imd quiet, and received several presents, but would not come on board. On Friday, tlie I'itli, in the morning, we imade for an :nlet but finding it not shel- ^tered stood out again, and w'ere chased by p canoe filled with Indians, but the Endea* Ivour out-sailed them. ,She pursued her course round the bay, but did not find an ipening. The next naming ^ve had a view 5 of the inland country. It was mountainous, and covered with snow in the interior parts, but the land towards the sea, was flat and nncnltivated. and in many places tl'Of' were groves of high trees. Nine canoes full of Indians came from the shore, and five ot them, after having consulted together, pur- sued the Endeavour, apparently with a hos- tile design. Tupia was desired to acquaint them, that immediate destruction would en- sue if they persevered in their atti inpts ; but words had no influence, and a four-pounder, with grai)e-shot, was fired, to give them some notions of the arms of their oppoiu>nt<}. They were terrified at this kind of reason- ing, and paddled away faster than they came. Tupia then hailed the fugitives, and ac- quainted them that if they came in a peacea- Dle manner, and left their arms behind, no aimoyance would be offered them; one of ' the canjes submitting to the terms, came along side the ship, and received manj pre- sents ; but the other canoes returning» and persisting in the same menacing l)eliaviour, interrupted this friendly intercourse. On the ITith, we were visited by some fishing-boats, the people in which conduct- ed themselves in an ainicuble manner. Though the fish which they had on board had been caught so long that they were not eatable, Capt. Cook purchased them merely for the sake of promoting a trafhc with the natives. In the afternoon a canoe with a number of armed Indians came up, and one of them, who was remarkably clothed with a black skin, found means to defraud the Captain of a piece of red baize, under pre- fence of bartering the skin he had on for it. As soon as he had got the baize into his possesion, in.stead of giving the .skin in re- turn, agreeable to his bargain, he rolled them up together and ordered the canoe to put off from the ship, turning a deaf ear to the repeated remonstrance of the Captain against his unjust behaviour. After a short time, this canoe, together with the fishing- boats which had put off at the same time <3ame back to the ship, and trade was again begnn. During this second traflic with the Indians, one of them nnexi>ectedly seized Tni>ia's little l>oy, Taiyota, and pulling hint '■"m. 64 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA«, into his canoe, instantly put off, and paddled away with the utmost speed ; several nnis- quets weie immediately dis«-'hari?ed at the people in the canoe, and one of them re- ^.'eiving- a wound, they all let go the boy, who before was held down in the bottom of the canoe. Taiyota taking- the advantage of their consternation, immediately jumped into the sea, and swam back towards the Endeavour ; he was titken on board without receiving any harm ; but his strength was so nnich exhausted with the weight of Lis clothes, that it was with great ditiiculty he reached the ship. In consequence ot this attempt to oarry off Taiyota, Capt. Cook called the Cane off which it happened. Cape Kidnappers; lying in latitude 39 deg. 43 min. south, and longitude 182! deg. 24 rain. west and is very distinguishable by the hi{?h cliffs and white rocks that surrounded it. The distance of this cape from Portland Is- land is abeat I'd leagues, and it forms the south point of a bay, which was denominat- ed Hawke's Bay, in honour of Admiral Havvke T&.iyota, having recovered from his fright {)roduced a fish, and informed Tupia that le intended to offer it to his Eatua, or God, in gratitude for his happy escafie ; this be- ing approved of by the other Indian, the iish was cast into the sea. Capt. Cook now passed by a small island, which was r,u]y- posed to* be inhabited only by fishermen, as it seemed to be barren, and Bare Island was the name g-'ven to it, and to a head- land in latitude 4() deg. 34 min. south, and lougitudt 182 deg. 55 min. west, because the Endeavour turned, he gave the name of Cape IVunagain. It was never certainly known whether New Zealand was an island before this vessel touched there ; on this ac- count, the lords of the admirally had in- structetl Capt. Cook to sail along the coasts as far as 40 degrees south, and it the land extended farther, to return to the s orthward agaiiL It was for this reascn that the Cap- tain altered his course, when he arrived at the Cape above ment:=>ned ; the wind hav- ing Iikewi.se veered about to the south, he returned, .sailing along the coast nearly in 1^8 former track. Between this mid. Cane a. Kidnapper's Bay, the land is unequal, and soniewnat re. "^mbles our downs and small villages, and mu'iy inhabitants were observ- ed. The ship came abreast of a peninsula, in Portland Island, named Terakako, on \Fednesday, the 19th. At this time a canoe with five Indians came up to the vessel. There were two chiefs among them, who came on board, and .staid all night. One of these was a very comely person, and had an open and agreeable countenance. They were extremely grateful for the presents which they received, and displayed no small degree of curiosity. They would not eat or drink, but the servants devoured the victuals set before them with a most voracious ajj- petite. We gave the name of Gable End Fore- land to a remarkable head-land, which we f)assed on the 19th. Three canoes appeared lere, and one Indian came on board, to whom we gave small presents before he with- drew. Many of the.se Indians wore pieces of green-stone round their necks which were transparent, and resembled an emerald. These being examined, appeared to be a specie.sof the nephritic stone. Several pie- ces of it were ])rocured by Mr. Banks, and it a npeared that this furnished the islanders >\itn their princiiial ornaments. The form of some of their taces was agreeable ; their noses were rather prominent than fiat. Their dialect was not so guttural as that of others, and their language nearly resembled that of Otaheite. On Friday, the 20th, we anchored in a bay two leagues to the north of the Fox land. To this bay we were invited by tlip natives in canoes, who behaved very amica- bly, and pointed to a place where they said we should find plenty of fresh water. AVt determined here to get some knowledge oi the country, though the harbour was not so good a shelter firom the weather as we expected. Two chiefs, whom we saw in the canoes, came on board ; they were dressed in jackets, the one ornamented with tufts of red feathers, the other with dog's-skin. We presented to them linen and some spikf- nails, but they did not value the last so mudi t.^1 ^^- •quai, and aiul small jre observ- peninsula, akako, on lie a canoe the vessel, hem, who ight. One n, and had noe. They he presents ed no small 1 not eat or the victuals iracious ap- End Fore- l, vv'hich we )es appeared ,n board, to itbre he with* ire pieces of which were an emerald, ired to be a Several pie- Banks, and the islanders }. The form eeable ; their t than iiat. •al as that of ly resembled nchored in a of the Fox vited by the 1 very amica- ;re they said water. AVt nowledge oi jour was not leather as ^\e ve saw in the kvere dressed |d with tnfts Ih dog'^-sUin. . some spike- last so much AND ROUND THE WORLD. A^ o.s the inhabitants of the other islands. The rest of the Indians traded with us without the least imposition, and we directed Tupia to acquaint them of our views in comnig thither -, and promise, that they should re- ceive no injury, rf. they offered none to us. In the afternoon the chiefs returned ; and as they are very plain, renders tfieni in aj)- pearaiice more homely. This kind of ainted ; but stances were scrupulously attentive not to they were daubed with dry red ochre from give offence. We made them several small head to foot, their apparel not excepted presents, and in this agreeable tour round Though in personal cleanliness they wera the bay, we had the pleasure of finding two not equal to our friends at Otaheite, yet in streams of fVesli water. We remained on some jiarliculars they surpassed them, for *hore all night, and the next day Mr. J^anks Tand Dr. Solander discovered .several birds, ■^mong which were quails and large pi- geons. Many stages for drying fi.sli were Observed near where we landed, and some Hiouses with fences. We saw dogs with 'pointed ears, and very ugly. Sweet pota- toes, like those which grow in America, iwere found. The cloth-plant grew sponta- |neous. In the neighbouring valleys, the iiai their (iweliiugs were furnisfied with privies* and they had dunghills, upon which their offals and filth were deposited. Among the females, chastity was lightly esteemed. They resorted frequently to the watering-place, where they freely bestowed every favour that was requested. An officer meeting with an elderly woman, he accompanied her to her house, and having presented her with some cloth and beads, a young girl was 'jands were laid out in regular plantations ; singled out, with whom he was given to un- %nd in the bay we caught plenty of crabs, derstand he iiiight retire. Soon after, an cray-fish, and horse-mackarel, larger than elderly man, with two women, cam^ in as ttiose upon the English coasts. The low visitors, who with much formality saluted lands were planted with cocoas; the hoi- the whole company, after the custom of the lows with gourds ; but as to the woods, they jdace, which is by gently joining the tips were almost impassable, on account of the of their noses together. On his return. number of supple-jacks which grew there. We went into several of the houses belong- ing to the natives, and met with a very civil recei)tion ; and >vithout the least reserve, 'they shewed u.s whatever we desired to see. At times we found them at their meals, Svhich our presence never interrupted. At this season, fish constituted their cnief food ; with which thoy eat. instead of bread, roots , of a kind of fern ; these, when roasted upon 1% fire, are sweet anil clammy ; in taste not ^disagreeable. tJiough rather unpleasant from Jihe number of their fibres. They have doubt- t ess in other seasons of the year, an abun- lance of excellent vcL'-etables. The women of this place paint their faces which was on Saturday, the 21st he was fur- nished with a guide, who, whenever they came to a brook or rivulet, took him on hi!< back, to prevent his being wet. Many of the natives were curiously lattaowed, an old man in particular, was marked r>n the breast with curious figures. One of them had an axe made of the green stone, wlnrh we could noL jMirchase, though sundry things were offere(i in exchange. These Indians at night dance in a very uncouth manner, with antic gestures, lolling out their tongues and making strange grimaces. In their dan- ces, old men as well as the young ones, are capital performers. In the tvening, Mr. Banks, being appre- %nth a mixture of red ochre and oil, whicji, Uensive that wo might Lw left on shore afkr m 60 VOYAGE TO TlIE SOUTH SEAS. Hllii i ( I ill f i H Ji ■) M! it was dark, applied to the Indians for one of their canoes to convey us on board the ship. This they granted with an obliging manner. We were eight in number, and not being used to a vessel that required a nice balance, we overset her in the surf. No one however was drowned, but it was con- cluded, to prevent a similar accident, that half our number should go at one time. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Tupia, and Taiyota, were the first party who embarked again, and arrived safe at the ship, as did the re- mainder of our company, all not a little f>leased with the good nature of our Indian friends, who cheerfully contributed their assistance upon our second trip. During our stay on shore, several of them went out in their canoes, and trafiicked, >vith th^ ship's c>mf)any. At first they preferred the cloth of Otaheite to that of Europe, but in the course of a day it decreased m its value five hundied per cent. These people expressed istrong marks of astonishment, when shewn the bark and her apparatus. This bay, which we now determined to quit, the na- tives call Tegadoo, and it is situated in 38 deg. ]0 min. south latitude. On the 22nd, in the evening, l)eing Sun- day, we weiiarhed anchor and put to sea, but the wind being contrary we stood for ano- ther bay a little to the south, called by the natives Toluga, in order to complete our wood and water, and to extend our corres- pondence with the natives. In this bay we came to an anchor, in about eleven fathom water, with a good sandy bottom, the north point of the bay bearing north by east, and the south point south east. We fmnd a wlatering-place in a small cove a little within the south point of the bay, which bore south by east, distant anout a mile. Several ca- noes with Indians on board, trafficked with us very fairly lor glass bottles. On .'Vlonday the 23rd, in the afternoon, we went on shore accompanied by Afr. Banks, Dr Solander, and the Captain. We examined and found the water extremely good ; also plenty of wood ; and the natives •hewed us as much civility as those from whom we had lately departed. At this vvat«ering place we set up an astronomical quadrant, and took several solar ana iunal^ observations. In the morning of the 24tli, Mr. Gore and the marines were sent on shore to guard the people employed in cut- ting wood and filling the casks with water. Capt. Cook, Mr. Banks, and the Doctor, also went on shore : the latteK were employed in collecting plants. In our walks through the vales, we saw manv houses uninhabited, the natives residing chiefly in sheds, on the ridges of the hills, which are very steep. In a valley between two very high hills, we saw a curious rock that formed a large arcli, opposite the sea. This cavern was in length about seventy feet, in breadth thirty, and near fifty in nei^hth, commanding a view of the bay and hills on the other side, which had a very pleasing effect. Indeed the whole country about the bay is agreeable beyond description, and, if properly cultir vated, would be a most fertile spot. The hills are clothed with beautiful flowerinff shrubs, intermixed with a number of tall, stately palms, which perfume the air, mak- ing it perfectly odoriferous. Mr. Banks and the Doctor, among other trees that yielded a fine transparent gum, discovered the cabbage-tree, the produce whereof, when boiled, was very good. We met with vari- ous kinds of edible herbage in great abun- dance, and many trees that produced fruit fit to eat. llie plant from which the cloth is made, is a kind of Hemerocallis ; its leaves afford a strong glossy flax, equally adapted to clothing, and making of^ ropes. Sweet potatoes and plantains are cultivated neai the houses. On our return we met an old man, who entertained us with the military exercises of the natives, which are performed with the fiatoo-patoo, and the lance. The former las been already mentioned, and is used as a battle-axe : the lat/er is eighteen or twenty feet in length, made of extreme hard wood, and sharpened at each end. A stake Avai substituted for a supposed enemy^ The old warrior first attacked him with his lance, advancing with a most furious aspect. Hav- ing pierced him, the patoo-patoo was 'ised to demolisli his head, at wnich he struck with a force which would'at one blow havt AND rotj:nd the world. /j7 no iunalj f the 24th. e sent on ed in cut- ith water, le Doctor, 5 employed ks through linhabited, eds, on the steep. In 1 hills, we large arch, IS in length thirty, and ing a view side, which [ndeed the s agreeable ►perly culti- spt)t. The il flowering iber of tall, le air, mak- Mr. Banks trees that , discovered lereof, when ; with vari- great abun- oduced fruit I the cloth IS j; its leaves lly adapted •pes. Sweet ivated neai man, who ry exercises led with the The former id is used asi en or twenty hard wood. \, stake was y^ The old th his lance, ip^ct. Hav- 30 WIS Msed he struck blow havi h split any man's skull : from whence we con- cluded no quarter was given by these jieople to their foes in time of action. The natives in this part are not very nu- merous. They are tolerably well shaped, but lean and tall. Their faces resemble those of the Europeans. Their noses are aquiline, their eyes dark coloured, their hair black, V >iicli is tied upon the top of their heads, and the men's beards are of a mo- derate length. Their tattaowing is done very curiously, in various figures, which makes their skin resemble carving ; it is confined to the principal men, the females and ser- vants using only red paint, with which they daul) their faces, that otherwise would not be disagreeable. Their cloth is white, glossy, and very even ; it is worn principally by the men, though it is wrought by the women, wlio indeed, are condemned to all drudgery and labour. On the 25th, we set up the armourer's forge on shore for necessary uses, and got our wood and water without the least mo- .estation from the natives, with whom we exchanged glass bottles and beads for dif- ferent sorts offish. Mr. Banks and Dr. So- lander went again in search of plants ; Tu- pia, who was with them, engaged in a con- versation with one of the priests, and they seemed to agree in their opinions upon the •ubject of religion. Tupia, in the course of this conference, inquired whether the report of their eating men was founded in truth ; to which the priest answered, it was ; but that they eat ntme but declared foes, after they were killed in war. This idea, so savage and barbarous, proved however, that they carried their resentment even beyond death. On the 27th, Capt, Cook and Dr. Solander went to inspect the bay, when the Doctor ; was not a little surprised to find the natives i^in the possession of a bo>'s to]), which they knew how to spin by whipping it, and he purchased it out of curiosity. Mr. Banks jtvas during this time employed in attaining |the summit ofa steep hill, that had previ- lously engaged their attention, and near it ihe found many inhabited houses. There |Were two rows of poles, about fourteen or • k 1 fifteen feet high, covered over with sticks^ which made an avenue of about five feet in width, extending near a hundred yards down the hill, in an irregular line : the intent of this erection was not discovered. When the fentlemen met at the watering place, the ndians sang their war song, which was a strange medley of shouting, sighing, and grimace, at which the womeri assisted? Tlie next day, Capt. Cook and other gentle- men went upon the island at tiie entrance of the bay, and met with a canoe that was 67 feet in length, six in breadth, and four in height ; her bottom, which was sliarp, consisted of three trunks of trees, and the sides and head were curiously carved. We also came to a large unfinished house. The posts which supported it were orna- mented witlli carvings, that did not aj-^pear to be done upon the spot, and as tlie inha- bitants seem to set great value upon works of this kind, future navigators might find their advantage in carrying such articles to trade with. Though the posts of this house were judged to be brought here, the people seemed to have a taste for carving, as their boats, paddles, and tops of walking-sticks evince. Thc'.r favourite figure is a volute, or spiral, which is sometimes single, double, and triple, and is done with great exactness, though the only instruments we saw were an axe made of stone, and a chisel. Their taste, however, is extremely whimsical and extravagant, scarcely ever imitating nature. Their huts are built under trees, their form is an oblong stjuare ; the door low on tlie side, and the windows are at the ends ; reeds covered with thatch compose the walls ; the beams of the eaves, which come to tlie ground, are covered with thatch ; most oi the houses had been deserted, through fear of the Engkish, upon their landing. There are many beautiful parrot« zrd great num- bers of birds of different kinds, particuhirly one whose note resembles the ]'!iuro|)ean black-bird ; but here is no gronn VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, 5 i! n» J) ■ ! - i4 kept the crew upon tlie uatcli in the rain, 'J'upia, at the request oi tlie Cajitaiu, used a number of dissuasive arirninents, to jpre- vent their earryini*: tlieir ap])arent designs into executuni ; but we could only pacify them by the tire of our muskets: they then laid aside their hostile n»tentions, and began to trade ; yet they could not refr.iin from their fraudulent practices ; for after they liad fairly bartered two of their weapons; they would not deliver up a third, for which tliey had received cloth, and onlv laughed at those who demanded an equivalent. The otiender was wounded with small shot; btit his countrymen took not the least notice of Iiiui, and continued to trade without any discomposure. When another canoe was struck for their mal-practices, the natives behaved in the same manner ; but if a rouml was fired over or near them, they all pad- dled away. Thus we found that theft and chicane, were as prevah iit amoMg the inha- bitants of New Zealand, as those of Otaheite. In searching for an anchoring place, the Captain saw a fortified village upon a higli {)oint, and having fixed upfon a proper spot, le returned ; upon which we weighed, run m neaicr to the shore, and cast anchor upon a sandy bottom, in four fathom and a half water. The south point of the bay bore due east, distant one mile, aiid a river which the boats can enter at low water south south- cast, distant a mile and a half. On the 5th, in the morning, the Indians came off to the ship again, who behaved much better than tiiey had done the pre- cedins^ day. An old man in particular nam- ed Tojava, testified his prudence and honesty to whom and a friend with him, the Cajitain presented some nails, and two pieces of En- glish cloth. Tojava informed us, that they were often visited by free-booters from the north, who stripped them of all they could lay their hands on, and at times made cap- tives of their wives and children; and that being ignorant who the English were upon their first arrival, the natives had been much alarmed, but were now satisfied of their good intentions. He added, that for their security against those plunderers, their Jt'iuses were built contiguous to the tops of the rocks, where they could l)etter defend themselves. Probably their poverty and mi- sery may be ascribed to the ravages of those who frenuently stript them of every neces- sary of life. Having dispatched the long- boat and pinnace into the bay to haul aiul dredge for fish, but with little success, the Indians on the banks testifiwl their friend- ship by every possible means. 'J'hey brought us great quantities offish dressed and dried, which though indifferent, we jmrchased, that trade might not be discouraged. J'hey also supplied us with wood and good water. While we were out with our guns, the peo- ple who staid by the boats saw two ot the natives fight. The battle was be'jj'un with their lances ; but some old iiien faking these away, they were obliged to decide the quar- rel, like Englishmen, with their fists. For some time they boxed with great vigour and perseverance, but at lene^th' they all retired behind a little hill, so that our people were prevented from seeing the issue of the com- bat. At this time the Endeavour being very foul, she was heeled, and her bottom scrub- bed in the bay. On the 8th, we were visited by several canoes, in one of which was Tojava, who descrying two canoes, hastened back again to the shore, apprehending they were free- booters ; but finding his mistake, he soon returned ; and the Indians supplied us with as much excellent fish as served the whole ship's company. This day a variety of Slants were collected by Mr. Banks and doctor Solander, who had never observed any of the kind before. They staid on shore till near dark, when they observed how the natives disposed of themselves during the night. They had no shelter but a few shrubs. The men lay nearest the sea in a semicircu- lar form ; and the women and children most distant from it. They had no king whose sovereignty they acknowledged, a ch'cuni- stance not to be paralleled on any other parts of the coast. Early in the morning of the 9th, the In- dians brought in their canoes a prodiirions quantity of mackarel, of which one sort were exactly the same with tl ose caught in Eng- land. They sold then- at a low rate and f AND ROUND THE WORLD. 61 ter ay. The river ap- east side. 5, have no ery indif- iianiented ijiiirehen* 1 by him be found oves that ountry, it ; by a ri- e steered 1(1 which ensive a« 1 Indians Its saiii^ s people ew a vol- away ; their in- ns: use of destrnc- tliey an- on s, inti- coiiie on . Tupia d still coAtinaed in expostulating with them, but to no purpose ; and they soon gave another volley of stones ; but upon a musket being tired at one of their boats, they made a precipitate retreat. We cast anchor m 23 fathom water in the evening, and early the next morning sailed up an inlet. Soon after two canoes came oft', and some of the In- dians came on board: they knew Tojava very well, and called Tupia by his name. Having received from us some presents, they retired peaceably, and apparently highly gratified. , ^ , . On Monday, the 20th, after having run five leagues from the ^ilace where we had anchored the night before, we came to an- ciior in a bay called by the natives Ooaha- ouragee. Capt. Cook, Mr. Banks, Dr. So- lander, and others set ofl'in the pinna(;e to examine the bottom of the bay, and found the inlet end of a river, about nine mile above the ship. We entered into the same with the first of the flood, and before we had proceeded three miles the water was perfectly fresh. Here we saw an Indian town, built upon a small dry sand-bank, and entirelv surrounded by a deep mud ; the inhabitants of which with much cordi- ality invited us to land, and gave us a most friendly reception. We were now fourteen miles up the river, and finding little altera- tion in the face of the country, we landed on the west side to examine the lofty trees which adorned its banks, and were of a kind that we had not seen before. At the en- trance of a wood we met with one ninety- eight feet high from the ground, quite strait, and nineteen feet in circumference ; and as we advanced we found others still larger. The wood of these trees is very heavy, not fit for masts, but would make exceeding fine planks. Our carpenter, wlio was with us, observed, that the timber resembled that of the pit« h pine which is lightened by tap- ping. There were also trees of other kinds, all unknown to us, specimens of which we brought away. We reimbarked about three o'clock with the first of the ebb, and Capt. r^ook gave to the river the name of Thames, it having a resemblance to the river of that name in England. It is not so deep, but it 7 is as broad as the Thames is at Greenwich* and the tide of flood is as stronff. On the evening of the 2lst, we reached tlie ship, all extremely tired, but happy at being on board. On the 22nd, early in the morning, we made sail, and kept plying till the flood obliged us once more to come to an anchor. The Captain and Dr. Solander went on shore to the west, but made no observations worth relating. After these gentlemen de- parted, the ship was surrounded with canoes, which kept Mr. Banks on board, that he might trade with the Indians, who bartered their arms and clothes for paper, taking no unfair advantages. But though they were in general honest in their dealings, one oi them took a fancy to a half minute glass, and being detected in secreting the same, it was resolved to give him a smatch of the cat-o'nine-tails. The Indians interfered to stop the current of justice ; but being op- posed they got their arms from their canoes, and some of the people in them attempted to get on board. Mr. Banks and Tupia now coming upon deck, the Indians applied to Tupia, who informed them of the nature of the offender's intended punishment, and that he had not influence over Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer. They appeared satisfied, and the criminal received not only a dozen, but afterwards a good drubbing from an old man, who was thought to be iiis father. The canoes immediately went off, the Indians saying, they should be afraid to return again on board. Tupia, however, brought them back, but they seemed to have lost that confidence which they before re- posed in us. Their stay was short, and after their departure we saw them not again, though they had promised to return with some fish. On the 23rd, the weather still continuing unfavourable, and the wind contrary, we kept plying down the river, anchoring be- tween tiie tides ; and at the north-west ex* tremity of the Thames, we passed a point oC land which the captain called Point Rod* ney ; and another, at the north-east extre- mity, when we entered the bay, he named Cape Colville. in honour of Lord Colvillo. m VOYAGE TO Tin: SOUTH SK AS, 'r Not heing able to approaeh land, we had but a distant view of trie main for a course of near thirty miles. Under the naiae of the river Thames, the Captain comprehend- ed the whole bay. Cape Colville is to be distincuished by a hif^h rock, and lies in 3(\ del?. 26 inin. of south latitude, 194 deg-. 27 min. west longitude. The Thames runs south by east from the southern point of the caf)e. In some parts it is three leagues over, for about fourteen leagues, after vvhieh it becomes narrower. In some parts of the bay the water is 26 fathoms deep ; the depth diminishes g-radually, and in e>eiie>*5il t'le anchorag-e is good. To some islands that shelter it from the sea, Capt. Cook gave the name of Barrier Islands ; they stretch north-west and south-east ten leag-ues. The country seemed to be thinly inhabited ; the natives are well made, strong", and active ; their bodies are painted with red ochre, and their canoes, which are well constructed, were ornamented with carved work. On the 24th, we continued steer' 'g along the shore between the islands and . le main; and in the evening anchored in an open bay, in about fourteen fathom water. Here we caught a large number of fish of the scienne, or l)reani kind, enough to supply the whole ship's company with provision for two days. From our success Capt. Cook named this place Bream Bay, and the ex- treme points at the north end of the bay he called Bream Head. Several pointed rocks stand in a range upon the top of it, and some small islands which lie before it were called the Hen and Chickens. It is situated in latitude 35 deg. 46 min. seventeen leagnes north-west of Cape Colville. There is an extent of land, of about thirty miles, between Point Rodney and Bream Head, woody and low. No inhabitants were visi- ble : but from the fires perceived at night, we conol'uled it was inhabited. On the 2jth, early in the morning:, we left the bay, and continued our course slowly to the northward ; at noon our latitude was 36 deg. 36 min. south, and we saw some is- lands which we named the Poor Knights, at north-east by north, distant three leagues ; ttie aorthern-most land in sight bore N. N. 8 W. we were now at the distance of two miles from the shore, and had twenty-six fathom water. Upon the islands were a few towns that appeared fortified, and the land round them seemed well inhabited. On the 26th, tojvards night, seven large canoes came od* to' us, with about two hun- dred men. Some of the Indians came on board, and let us know, that they had an account of o\n' arrrival. These were follow- ed by two larger canoes, adorned with carv- ing". The Indians, after bavins? held a con- ference, came a-loui? side of the vessel. They were armed with various weapons, and seemed to be of the higher order. Their )atoo-patoos were made of stone and whale- )one, ornamented with dog's hair, and were leld in high estimation. Their complexion was darker than that of those to the south, and their faces were stained with amoco. They were given to pilfering, of which one of them gfave an instance, pretending to bar- ter a piece of talc, wrought into the shape of an ax, for a piece of cloth ; nor was he disposed to fulfil his agreement, till we com- K el led him to do it, by firing a musket over is head, which brought him back to the ship, and he returned the cloth. At three in the afternoon we passed a remarkable high point of land, bearing" west and it was called Ca])e Brett, in honour of Sir Piercy Brett. At the point of this cape is a rouiul high hillock, and north-east by north, dis- tant about a mile, is a curious arched rock like that which has been already described. This cape, or at least part of it, is called by the natives Motugogo, and lii^ in 35 deg". 10 min. 30 sec. south latitude, and in 185 deg. 23 min. west longitude. To the south- west by west is a bay, in which is many small islands, and ihe point at the north- west entrance the Captain named Point Pococke. There are many villa tain fired his musket, loaded with small shot, which was seconded by Mr. Bank.s's discharging his piece, and two of the men followed his example. This threw the In- dians into confusion, and they retreated, but were rallied again by one of the chiefs, who shouted and waved his patoo-patoo. The Doctor now pointed his musket at this hero, and hit him : this stopped his career, and he took to flight with the other Indians. They retired to an eminence in a collected body, and seemed dubious whe- ther they should return to the charge. They were now at too great a distance for a ball to reach them, but these operations being observed from the ship, she brought her broad-side to bear, and by firing over them, soon dispersed them. The Indians had in their skirmish two of their people wounded, but none killed : peace being thus restored, the gentlemen liegan to gather celery and other herbs, but suspecting that some of the natives were lurking about with ctvil •8 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ' MB ^,! i^ I 'I 4|i designs, they repaired to a cave, wliirh w.is at a nniHil distance. Here they found the chief, who had that day received a present from the Captain ; he came forth with his wife and brother, and solicited their cle- mency. It appeared, tJiat one of the wound- ed Indians was a brother of this chief, who was under great anxiety lest the wound should prove mortal ; but his Rrief was in a great degree alleviated, when he was made acquainted with the different effects of small shot and ball ; he was at the .same time as- fiured, that upon any farther hostilities be- ing committed, ball would be used. This interview terminated very cordially, after some trifling presents were made to the chief and his companions. The prudence of the gentlemen cannot be too much com- mended : for had these 400 Indians boldly rushed in upon them at once with their weapons, the musketry could hare done very little execution ; but supposing twenty or thirty of the Indians had been wounded, as it does not appear their pieces were load- ed with ball, but only small shot, there would have remained a sufficient number to have massacred them, as it appears they do not give any quarter, and none coula have been expected upon this occasion. It is true, when the ship brought her broad- side to bear, slie might have made great iiavock amongst the Indians ; but this would have been too late to save the party on shore. Being in their boats, the English rowed to another part of the same island, when landing, and gaining an eminence, they had a very agreeable and romantic view of a great number of small islands, well inhabited and cultivated. The inha- bitants of an adjacent town approached unarmed, and testified great humdity and submission. Some of the party on shore who had been very violent for having the Indians punished for their fraudulent con- duct, were now guilty of trespasses equally repreliensible, having forced into some of the plantations, and dug up potatoes. The Captain, upon this occasion, shewed strict justice in punishing each of the offenders with twelve lashes : one of them being very a-fractory upon this occasion, and complain- 2 ingof the hardship, thinking an Englishman had a right to nlunder an Indian with im- punity, receivea six additional lashes for his reward . On the 30th, it being a dead calm, two boats were sent to sound the harbour ; when many canoes came up and traded with great probity ; the gentlemen went again on shore, and met with a very civil recep- tion from the natives : and this friendly in- tercourse continued all. the time they re- mained in the bay, which was several days. Ueing upon a visit to the old chief, he shew- ed them the instruments used in tattaowing, which Avere very like those employed at Oteheite upon the like occasion. They saw the man who had been wounded by the ball, when the attempt was made to carry off the shin's buoy ; and though it had gone through tlie tleshy part of his arm, it did not seem to give hnn the least pain or un- easiness. On Tuesday, the 5th of December, in the morning, we weighed anchor, bul were .soon becalmed, and a strong current setting to- wards the .shore, we were driven in with such rapidity, that we expected every mo- ment to be run upon tlie breakers, which appeared above water not more than a • ca- ble's length distance, and we were so near the land, that Tupia, who was totally igno- rant of the danger, held a conversation witli the Indians, who were .standing on the beach. We were happily relieved, however, from this alarming situation by a fresh breeze suddenly .springing up from the shore. The bay which we had left was called the Bay of Islands, on account of the numerous islands it contains ; we caught but few fish while we lay there, but pro- cured great jdenty from the natives, who were extremely exfjert in fishing, and tiis. played great ingenuity in the form of their nets, which were made of a kind of grass; they were two or three hundred fathoms in length, and remarkably strong, and they have them in such plenty that it is scarcely possible to go a hundred yards without meeting with numbers lying in heaps. These people did not appear to be tmder the government of any particular chief or 1 lisliman vith iin- s for his lin, two inrboiir ; lied with [»t ajj^ain I recpp- ndly in- they re- ral days, he shew- taowing, loyed at . They :d by the to carry tiad gone m, it did in or un- er, in the vere soon etting to- in with !very mo- rs, which an a • ca- so near Uy igno- tion wit?i on the lowever, a fresh rom tlie left was [rcount of ve car.g-ht but pro- ives, who and tiis. of their [)f grass ; fathoms and tiiey scarcely without heaps, be nnder chief or AND ROUND THE WORLD. tfr M novereign, and they seemed to live in a \yp.r- feet state of friendship, notwithstanding their villages were fortified. According to tiieir observations upon the tiiles, the Uood conies from the south, and tiiere is a cur- rent from the west. On the 7th, of December, beinuf Thurs- day, .several observations of the sun and moon were made, whereby we found our latitude to be 185 deg. iHi min. west. In the afternoon we were close under t!ie C'a- valles. Several canoes puttttfand folloned the Endeavour, but a light breeze spr'ng- ing up, we did not wait for them. The next morning, being tli'e 8th, at ten o'clock we tacked aiul st(»o v;j)lit the main topsail and the tore inizen-top .sails. Early in the morning of the '4th, we .saw land to the .southward, at the distance of eight or nine leagues; and on the 15th, we tacked and stood to the westward. On the Kith we tliscovered land from the mast head, bear- ing south-south-west. On Sunday the 17tli, we tacked in thirty-five fathom, and fountl we had not gained one inch' to windwaril the liist twenty-four hours. We .saw a point of land, the northern extremity of New Zealand. whi<:h Capt. Coolk iiajned North Cape. It lies in latitude. 34 deg'.' 2'2 min. south, and in 185 ;deg.:5'*'niin. west longi- tude ; we continiited'stinding off and on till the 23rd, when abo^it seVen o'clock we discovered land bearing south half east. On the 24th, we saw the same land south- east by s(uith four leagues distant, which we judged to be the Islands of the ThFee Kings. The chief of the.se is in latitude 34 «leg. 12 min. south, and 187 dej?. 48 mill, west longitude, and distant aboDt 14 and 15 leagues from North Cape. Mr. Ranks went out in the long-boat and shot some birds that nearly resembled geese, and they were very good eating. On Chrisf- mas-ilay, December the 25tlr, we tacketf, and stood to the southward. On "the 2Gth, we had no land in sight, and were twenty leagues to the westward of North Cape. At mid-night we tacked and stood to the northward. On the 27th, it blew a storm from the ea«!t, accompanied with heavy r w \ I w i VOYAGE TO TIIE SOUTH SEAS, sliowcrs of rain, which compelled us to bring the ship to, under her mainsail. The gale continued till Thursday the 3Hth, when it fell about two o'clock in the morning we concluded to be Maria Van Dienieii ; and it corresponded with the account w« had received of it from the Indians. We wore at mid-night, and stood to the south- bnt at ei^ht increased to a hurricane, with east. On the 31st, we tacked at seven in a prodigious sea. At noon the gale some- the evening, and stood to the westward. what abated, but we had still heavy squalls. We were now distant from the nearest land On the 20th, in the evening, we wore and about three leagues, and had somewhat stood to the north-west. On Saturday, the more than forty fathom water. 30th, we saw land bearing north-east, which CHAP VII The Endeavonr continues her voyage, January the 1 5/ 1 770, round North Cape to Queen Char- lotte's Sound ; That part of the coast described ; Transactions in the sound ; IShe sails between two islands, and returns to Cape Turiiagain ; A shocking custom of the inhabitants ; A visit to a Hippah, and other remarkable particulars ; The circum-navigation of this country completed; The coast and Admiralty Bay described; The departure of the Endeavour from New Zealand ^ and other remarkable particulars ; A descriptive account of New Zealand : Its first discovery by T^isman ; Situation and productions ; An account of the inhabitants ; Their dress, ornaments, 4md manner of life; Their canoes, navigation, tillage, weapons, music, governmait, religion and language ; The arguments in favour of a Southern Continent controverted. rANUARY the 1st, on Monday at six it the morning, being New Year's Day, we tacked, and stood to the eastward. At uog- in to fee(\ upon the bfiit are caught in g^reat abundance. In this island are birds of va- rious kinds, and in great numbers, ])articu- larly parrots, wood }>igeons, water hens, liawks, and many difierent singing birds. An herb, a si)ecies of Philadelphus, was used here instead of tea, and a plant called Teegoomme, resembling' ru«jr-cloaks, served the natives for garments. The environs of the cove where the Endeavour lay is covered entirely with wood, and the supple-jacks are so numerous, that it is with difficulty that passengers can pursue their way ; here is a numerous sand-fly, that is very disa- greeable. The tops of many hills were co- vered with fern. The air of the country is very ruoist, and has some qualities that pro- mote putrefaction, as birds that have been shot but a few hours were found with mag- gots in them. The women who accompa- nied the men in their canoes, wore a head dress, which we had no where met with before ; it was composed of black feathers, tied in a bunch on the fop of the head, which greatly increased its height. The manner of their disposing of their dead is very different to what is practised in their .♦^^mlhern islands, they tie a large stone to the body, and throw it into the sea. We saw the body of a woman who had been disposed of this way, but which, by some accident, had disengaged itself from the .stone, and was floating upon the water. The Cai)tain, Mr. Hanks, and the doctor visited ahother cove, about two miles from the ship. There was a family .>f Indians who were greatly alarmed at the approach of these gentleniv^n. all running away except one ; but upon Tupia's conversing with him, the others returned. They found, by the provisions of this family that they were cannabals, here being several human bones that had been lately dressed and i)ickcd, and it appear-^d that a short time before, six of their enemies having fallen into their hands, they had killed four and eaten them, and that the other two were drowned in endeavouring to make their escape. They made no secret of this abominable custom, but answered Tupia, who was desired to ascertain the fa<'t, with great composure, that his conjectures were jnst, that they were the bones of a man, and testified by- signs, that they thought human flesh deli- cious food. Uj)on being asked, Wliy they had not eaten the body of the woman that had been floating uj»on the water? they an- swered. She died of a disonier, and that moreover she was related to them, and they never ate any but their enemies. Upon Mr. Banks still testifying some doubts concern^ ing the fact, one of the Indians drew thfi bone of a man's arm through his mouth, and this gentlemen had the cmiosity to bring it oway with him. There was a wo- man in this family whose arms and legs were cut in a shocking manner, and it ap- peared she had thus wounded herself l)e- canse her husband had lately been killed and eaten by the enemy. Some of the In- dians brought four .skulls one day to sell, which they rated at a very high price. The brains had been taken out, and probably eaten, but the skull and hair remained. They seemed to have been dried by fire, ill order to preserve them from putrefaction. The gentlemen likewise .saw the bail of a canoe, which was made of a human skull. On tiie whole, their ideas were so horrid and brutish, that they seeMied to pride themselves upon their cruelty and barbarity, and took a |)articnlar ideasure in shewing the manner m which tliey killed their ene- mies ; it being r-onsidcred as very meritori- ous to be expert at fijis /|e tmrtion. The method used was to kno< k n >Hn wifli their patoo-patoos, and fhi.h rip up their bellie;*. Great nunabers of birds usually begun their melody about two o'eloek in the morn- ing, and serenaded lis till the time of out 4 If* J AND ROUND THE WORLD. I hey were an bones I })icked, e befor< , into tlieir ten them, avvned in )e. They e cufitoin, lesired to oniposuro, tliat they stifled by flesh deli- Wliy they nmui that ? they inl- and that , and they Upon Mr. s eoncernn drew the liis moutli, iiriosity to was a wo- s and legs and it ap- herself bfc- jeen killed of the In- ay to sell, rice. The probably remained. d by fire, t re faction. bail of a man skull. so horrid to pride barbarity. \ shewing their ene- meritori- ion. The li»un with }\[i their |lly beii'un tlie morn- |m(; Iff our fising. This harmony was very agreeable, as the ship lay at a convenient distance from the shore to hear it. These feathered cho- ristors, like the English nightingales, never sing in the day-time. On the 17th, the .ship was visited by a canoe from the hippah, or village ; it con- tained, among others, the aged Indian, of superior distinction, who had first visited the English ni)on their arrival. In a con- ference which Tupia had with him, he tes- tified his apprehensions, that ilieir enemies would very soon visit them, and repay the compliment, for killing and eating the four men. On the 18tli, we received no visit from the Indians,- but going ont in the pinnace to inspect the bay, we saw a single man in a canoe fishing, in the manner al- ready described. It was remarkable, that this man did not pay the least attention to the people in the pinnace, but continued to pursue his employment, even when we came along -side of him, without once looking at us. Some of the Endeavour's people being on shore, found three human hip-bones, close to an oven ; these were brought on board, as well as the hair of a man's head, ( which was found in a tree. The next day a forge was set up to repair the iron- work ; and some Indians visited the ship with plenty of fish, which they bartered very fairly for nails. On the 20th, in the morning, Mr Banks purchased of the old Indian a man's head, which he. seemed very unwilling to part with ; the skull had been fractured by a blow, and the brains were extracted, ami, like the others, it was preserved tiom pu- trefaction. From the care with which they kept these skulls, and the reluctance with which they liartered any, it was imagined they were considered as trophies of war, and testimonials of their valour. In this day's excursion, we did not meet with a single native ; the ground on every side was quite uncultivated ; but we discovered a very good harbour. The succeeding day, the ship's company were allowed to go on shore for their amusement, and the gentle- men employed themselves in fislnng, in which they were very successful. S^u:e of the company in their excursion met with fortifications that had not the advantage of an elevated situation, but were surrounded by two or three wide ditches, with a draw- bridge, such as, though simple in its struc- ture, was capable of answering every pur- po.se against the arms of the natives. AVithin these ditches is a fence, made with stakes, fixed in the earth. A decisive conquest or victory over the besieged, occasions an en- tire depopulation of that district, as the vanquished, not only those who are killed, but the prisoners likewise, are devoured by the victors. The2-ind,was employed by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, in collecting of plants, whilst Capt. Cook ma partly surrounded with palliyju' les, and it had a fighting .stage, like that ul- ready described. Here we met with a cross, resendiling a crucifix, which was erected as a monument for a ody wjkS disposed of From a conversation tliat Tupia had with these people, a discovery was madcs that an otficer being in a boat near tjiis village, and some canoes coming o\f. made him imagine they had hostile desit'iis, and he firel uj»on them with ball, which made tluin retire with much precipitation, but they could not efl^ect their retreat, beloie one of them was wounded. What made this rash actiou the more to be lamented m m m d i. ■ j i ( : I' im 72, VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS. was, that the Intlians ffave afterwa-.:ls every jiossibie assurance that their intentions ujxMi this occasion were entirely tViendly. On tiie '25il\\, the Captain, Mr Hanks, and 1>. Sohinder, went on shore to jhoot, when they met with a numerous tamily, who were anions tiie creeks catching tim : they be- haved very civilly, and received some trit- linu: presents from the jafentlenien, who were loaded by way of return with the kisses find embraces of both sexes, young and ol distinguish >t with niaiiy lased a small e of our pen. n the nioiii- d)ont twenty ve or six wo- y been made II the ground i' their bodies til sliells, and in testniony ; what made )le, was, that Ti them, paid ut with the e, employed huts. This [repared two orials, beins .he year, tlie [One of theiu ce, with the p; and the arest the sea, and the in- those posts Ir adventurers che islands, named Tovy Poenamoo, whicn signifies *' the water of green talc ;" which might Srobably be the name of a place where the ndians got their green talc, or stone, of which they make their ornaments and cat- ting tools. He also to. J us, there was a third whennua, eastward of the strait, called Eaheinomauwee, of considerable extent ; the circumnavigation of which would take np many moons : lie added, that tlje land on the borders of the strait, contiguous to this inlet, was called Tiera Witte. Having pro- cured this intelligence, and concluded the ceremonies at fixing up the monumental memorial, we returned to the ship. The old man attended us in his canoe, and re- turned home after dinner. Wednesday, the 31st, having taken in our wood and water, we dispatched one party to make brooms, and another to catch ash. Toward the close of the evening we had a strong gale from the north-west, with such heavy showers, that our sweet little warb- lers on shore suspended their wild notes, with which till now they had constantly serenaded us during the night, affording us a pleasure not to be expressetl, and the loss of which we could not at this time refruin frr in regretting. On the 1st, of February, the gale increas- «(1 to a storm, with i heavy- gusts from the main land, which obliged us to let go ano- t'ur anchor. Towards night they became iiore moderate, but the rain poured prietor of the land where wa iiad cut our wood The mother and sou v.-ere sitting upon mafts; the rest of the family ofbocli .'^exe.s, about seventeen in r.\iinbei\ sat round them. They behaved witbilie ;jtmo-< ho.otpitality and courtesy, and eadcavuur*-d 'o prevail with us to stay aU ni,sht ; l)nt expe> tiug th« ship to sail. v»e <-ould not ;icc<>(>t of f heir pifcssmg invdiUiou. 'i'\n> j.uuiiy setnied 4- m :iir 74 VOYAGE Td TH.. SOUTH SEAS, the most intelligent of any Indians wt had hitherto conversed with, which made us regret our late acquaintance with them ; for had we fallen into their company before, we should probably have gained more in- formation from them in one day, than we had been able to acquire during our whole stay upon the coast. Monday, the 6th, in the morning, the Endeavour sailed out of the bay, which, from the savage custom of eating human flesh, we called Cannibal Bay. We bent our course to an opening in the east ; and when in the mouth of the strait, were be- calmed in latitude 310 south, and 184 deg. 45 min. west longitude. The tw^ points that form the entrance, we called Cape Koamaroo, and point Jackson. The land forming the harbour or cove in which we lay, is called by the Indians Totarranue ; the harbour itself, named by the Captain, Ship Cove, is very convenient and safe. It is situated on le west side of the cove, and is the southernmost of the three coves within the island of Motuara, between which and the island of Hamote, or between Afotuara, or western shore, is the entrance. In the last of these inlets are two ledges of rocks, three fathoms under water, which may easily be known by the sea-weed that grows upon them. Attention must also be paid to the tides, which, when there is little wind, flow about nine or ten o'clock, at the full and change of the moon, and rise and fall about seven feet and a half, passing through the strait from the south-east. The land about this sound, which we saw at the distance of twenty leagues, consists entirely of high hills, and deep valleys, well stored with a variety of excellent timber, fit for all pur- poses except masts, for wkich it is too hard and heavy. On the shore we found plenty of shags, and a few other species of wild fowl, that are very acceptable food to those who have lived long upon salt provisions. The number of inhabitants is not greater than four hundred, who are scattered along the coast, and upon any aj)pearence of dan- ger retire to their hip situation we found »ahs, or forts, in which J em. They are poor. und theik canoes without ornaments. The traflic we had with them was wholly; for fish ; but they had some knowledge of iron, which the natives of other parts had not. On our arrival they were much pleased with onr paper ; but when they knew it would be spoded by the wet, they would not have it. English broad-cloth, and red kersey they highly esteemed. Leaving the sound we stood over to the eastward, and were carried by the rapidity of the curre?it very close to one of the two islands that lie off Cape Koamaroo, at the entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound. At this time we were every moment in danger of being dashed to pieces against the rocks, but after having veered out 150 fathoms of cable, the ship was brought up, when the rocks were not more than two cables length from us. Thus we remained, being obliged to wait for the tide's ebbing, which did not take place till after midnight. On the 7th, at eight o'clock in the morn- ing, we weighed anchor, and a fresh breeze with a tide of ebb hurried us through the strait with great swiftness. The narrowest part of this strait lies between Cape Tierra- witte and Cape Koamaroo, the distance be- tween which we judged to be five leagues. The length of the strait we could not de- termine. In passing it, we think it safest to keep to the north-east shore, for on this side we saw notliing to fear. Cape Tierra- witte lies in 41 deg. 44 min. of south lati- tude, and 183 deg. 45 min. of west longi- tude. And Cane Koamaroo is 41 deg. 34 min. south, ana in 113 deg. 30 min. west longitude. About nine leagues from the former cape, and under the same shore north, is a high island, which the cai)tain called Entry Isle. We were now facing a deep bay which we called Cloudy bay. Some of our gentlemen doubting whether Eahie- nomauwee was an island, we steered .south* east, in order to clear up this doubt ; but the wind .shifting we stood eastward, and steered north-east by east all night. The next morning we were off Cape Palliser, and found that the land stretched away to the north-eastward of Cape Turnagain. In the afterno«m, three canoes came off, having several Indians on board. Tliese made ^ AND ROUND THE WORLD. 7« lOlljr for e of iron, had not. ised with it would not have d kersey ;r to the rapidity the two J, at the imd. At n danger he rocks, ithoms of when the es length g obliged h did not ;he morn- sh breeze oiigh the narrowest >e Tierra- [stance be- leagues. not de- it safest or on this le Tierra- outh lati- est longi- deg. 34 nin. west from the ore north, lin called j; a deep y. Some ler Eahie- ed south* •il)t ; but vard, and ht. The Palliser, away to iirain. In iV having made ia food appearance, and were ornamented like those on the nothern coast. There was no dif- ficulty in persuading them to come on board, where they demeaned themselves very civilly, and amutual exchange of presents took place. As they asked for nails it was concluded tliat they heard of the English, by means of the inhabitants of some of the other places at which we had touched. Their dress resembled that of the natives of Hud- sou's JBay. One old man was tataowed in a very particular manner, he had likewise a red streak across his nose ; and his hair and beard were remarkable for their white- ness. The upper garment that he wore was made of flax, and had a wrought bor- der : under this was a sort of petticoat of a cloth called Aooree Waow. Teeth and green stones decorated his ears : he spoke in a soft and low key, and it was concluded, from his deportment, that he was a person of distinguished rank among his country- men, and these people withdrew greatly sa- tisfied with the presents that they had re- ceived. On the 9th, in the morning, we discovered that Eahienomauwee was really an island. About sixty Indians in four double canoes came within a stone's throw of the ship, on the 14th, of February. As they sur- veyed her with surprize, Tupia endeavoured to persuade them to come nearer, but this they could not be prevailed on to do. On this account the island was denominated the Island of Lookers-on. Five leagues distant from the coast of Tovy Poenamoo, we saw an island which was called after Mr. Banks's name ; a few Indians appear- ed on it, and in one place they discovered a smoke, so that it was plain the place was inhabited. Mr. Banks going out in his boat for the purpose of shooting, killed some of the Port Egmont hens, which were like those found on the isle of Fare, and the first tl>at they had seen upon this coast. A point of land was observed on Sunday the i/ith, in latitude 43 deg. 3-3 min. south, to which Capt Cook gave the name of Cape Saunders, in honour of Admiral Saunders. We kept oflffrom the shore, which appeared to be interspersed with trees, and (Covered 3 with green hills, but no inhabitanta were discovejed. On the 4th, of March, several whales and seals were seen ; and on the 9th, we saw a ledge of rocks, and soon after another ledge at three leagues distance from the shore, which we passed in the night to the north- ward, and at day-break observed the others under our bows, which was a fortunate es- cape ; and in consideration of their having been so nearly caught among these, they were denominated the Traps. We called the southernmost point of land, the Soutli Cape, and found it to be the southern ex- tremity of the whole coast. Proceeding northward, the next day we fell in with a barren rock about" fifteen miles i\o\n the main land, .which, was very high, and a[)- peared to be about a mile in circumfer- ence land. and this was named Solander's Is- On the 13th, we discovered a bay con- taining several islands, where we concluded if there was depth of water, shipping might find shelter from the winds. Dusky Bay was the appellation given to it by the Cap- tain, and five high peaked rocks, for which it was remarkable, caused the point to be called Five Fingers. The westermost point of land upon the whole coast, to the south- ward of Dusky Bay, we called West Ca-pe. The next day we passed a small narrow opening, where there seemed to be a good harbour formed by an island, the lam I lie- hind which exhibited a prospect of moun- tains covered with snow. On the 16th, we passed a point which cons' ted of high red cliffs, and received the name of Cascade Point, on account of seve- ral small streams which fell down it. In the morning of the 18th, the valleys were observed covered with snow as well as the mountains, which seemed to have fallen the night before, when we had rain at sea. Thus we passed the whole north-west coast of Tovy Poenamoo, which had nothing worth our observsition but a ridge of naked and barren rocks covered with snow, some of which we conjecturetl might probably have remained there ever since the crea- tion. As far as the eye could reach, the mrr f6 VOYAGE TO Tin: S0[ TH SEAS, i'«i prospects were in general wild, cra^^tfy, and desolate ; scarcely any thinsjf but rooks to be seen, the most of which Dr. Hawkes- worth describes as having' nothing" but a kind of hollows, and dreadful tissures in- stead of valleys between them. From this uncomfortable country we deterniineecn the same that was called Mm-derers Bay, by Tasman, the tirst discoverer of New Zea- land ; but though he named it Staten Is- land, wishing to take possession of it for the States General, yet being attacked here by the Indians he never went on shore to eftect his purpose. This coast, now more accurately examined, is discovered to con- .sist of two islani'r mulberry tree is to be found, but in no ;ibunilauce. ii\ New Zealaiul is oidy one shrub or tree, which i)roiliu,'es fruit, which i^ a kind of berry almost tasteless ; l)ut tliey have a plant which answers all the uses of hemp and tiax. There are two kinds of this plant, the leaves of one of which are yellow, and the other a deep red, and both of them re- .semble the leaves of tiags. Of these leaves they make lines and cordage, and much stronger than any thing of the kin thing else through which they can i)ass a string. The men wear a piece of green talc or whalebone,withtheresemblanceof a man carved on it, hanging to a string round the neck. We saw one man who had the ?j;r)sii(' of his nose perforated, and a feather passed through it, projected over each cheek. These people shew less ingenuity in *l.f structure of tlieir hou.ses, than in any thing else belonging to them ; they ire from ■\wm olours to iiess and liie most le fur of an j)ass a reen tale of a man mnd The le ?i:nstu' jr passed ek. :y in ^hf ny thinsj lire from AND ROUND THE WORLD. 70 1 I Mxteen to twenty-four I'eet lonp:, ten or twelve wide, and six or elffht in height. The frame is of slight sticks of wood, and the walls and roof are made of dry grass pretty tiriiily compacted. Some of them are lined with bark of trees, and the rulge of the house is formed by a pole which runs from one end to the other. The door is only high enough to admit a person crawl- ing on^ hands and knees, and the roof is sloping. Tliere is a square hole near the door, serving both for window and chimney, near which is the tire jjlace. A ulank is placecl over the door, adorned witli a sort of carving, and this they consider as an or- namental piece of furniture. 7'lie side-walls and roof projecting two or three feet beyond the walls at each end form a sort of portico where benches are placed to sit on. The fire is in.ide in the middle of a hollow square in the floor, which is inclosed with wood or stone. They sleej> near the walls, where the ground is covered with straw for their beds. Some who can atford it, whose fa- milies are large?, have three or four houses, inclosed in their court-yard. Their clothes, arms, feathers, some ill made tools, ami a cliest, in which all these are deposited, form all the furniture of the inside of the house. Their haiumeis to beat fern-root, gourds to bold water, and baskets to contain provi- sions, are placed without the house. One house wan found near 40 feet long, 20 wide, and 14 high. Its sides were adorned with carved planks of workmanship superior to the rest ; but the building appeared to have been left unfinished. Though the people sleep warm enough at home, they seem to despise the inclemency of the m cather, when tliey go in search of fij>h or fern-roots. Sometimes, indeed, they place a small de- fence to wind-ward, but trequently sleep undressed with their arms placed round them, witliuut the least shelter whatever. Besides the fern-root, which serves them for bread, they feed on albetrosses, jien- guins, and some other birds. Whatever they eat is either roasted or baked, as they have no vessel in which water can be boil- ed. We saw no plantations of cocoas, po- tatoes, and yam!>» to the southward, ;;houijh 7 there were many in the northerft parts. 'J'he natives drink no other li(|uor than wa- ter, and enjoy perfect and uninterrupted health. When wounded in battle, the wound heals in a very short time without the application of medicine ; and the very ohl people carry no other marks of decay ab ^ Photographic Sciences Corporation as WiST MAIN 51 UEIT WEBSTER, :«'. MSSO (716) S72-4S03 i(p * 80 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, surprising. Tlieir sails are compospd of a kin«l «t milt or netting, which is extiiulel between t\yo upright poles, cue of whi(r!« is iixed on each side. 1 wo ropes, jastentil to the top of each pole, serve instead of sheets. The vessels are steered by two men having each a paddle, and sitting* in the stern ; but they can only sail before the wind, in which direction they move with considerable swift- ness. These Indians use axes, adzes, and chisels, with which hist tliey likewise bore holes. The chisels are made of jasper, or of the bone of a man's arm : their axes and adzes of a hard black stone> They use their small jasper tools till they are blunted, and then throw them awajs having no instrument to sharpen them with. The Indians at Tolaga havina; been presented with a piece of glass, drilled a hole through if, and hung it round the neck. A small bit of jasper was thona:ht to have been the tool thev used in drilling It. Their tillage is excellent, owing to the necessity they are under of cultivating or running the risque of starving. At Tegadoo their crops were just put into the ground, id the surface of tilt field was as smooth rtS a gardeu, the roots were ranged in regu- lar lines, and to every root there remained a hillock. A long narrow stake, sharijened to an edge at bottom, with a piece fixed across a little above it, for the convenience of driving it into the ground with the foot, supplies the place both of plough and spade. The soil being light, their work is not very laborious and with this instrument alone they vvill turn up ground of six or seven acres in extent. The seine, the large net which has been already noticed, is produced by the united labour and is probably the joint property of A whole town. Their fish-hooks are of shell or bone ; and they have baskets of wicker- work to hold the fish. Their warlike wea- pons are spears, darts, battle-axes, auyed, till encouraged by our supposed timidity, they began the war- songand dance, the sure prelude of an attack, >yhich always followed, and sometimes con- tinued, until the firing of small shot repuls. ed them ; but at others, they vented their passion, by throwing a few stones at the ship, in the way of insulting us. The contortions of these savage Indian* are numerous ; their limbs are distorted. ai;d their faces are auilated with strange cnnvtil- sive motions. Their tongues hang out «»f their mouths to an amn/.iiig lenyth, aiul their eye-lids are drawn so as to i'onn a cir- cle round the eye. At fliC sa;net;;!;e thev .shake their dans, !,raiul;sli their .*;pears ANI> ROUND THE WORLD. SI uist make chiefly in id to their i;», that it leir hands, f people of ornament, distinction, il warriors. |uite white, ers, and the they had a shells, and ilitary staff", inction war aged, who ! anioco. us, one Of 5tinj»nishe(!, is their rus ards from a n their seat, nd holilini^' them how too iar from nissile wea- en, and the omaij harre lore, come 11 wit\i our eatened us, rkjtill close rvals, in a g whatever again their on raged by an the war- fan attack, ^times coii- lot repnls. nted their nes at (he i;e Indians Itorted. and lue conval- nig (»ut <»f niitii, anf words in both languages, according to the dialect of the northern and southern is- lands of which New Zealand consists; whence it will appear, that the language of CHaheite does not differ more from that of New Zealand, than the language of the two islands from each other. THE LANGUAGE OF New Zealand. OTAiieiTE. Northern. ,Southem, I'erringa Hetaheyei Terrea Krai Heai E^rai Mafa Hemata Mata Paparinga Hepapaeh Paparew Ahewh Heeih Ahew Hangou- Uegaowai Outou tou Ecouwai Hakaoewai — — Haringaringu Maticara Hermai- gawh Heeapeto Heromai Heica Kooura Taro Cumala Rcma TVlaneow Oboo Peto Harromai Eyea Tooura Taro Cumala Ateraboo Apeto Haromai Heica Kooura Taro Cumala Tuphwhe Tuphwhe Tuphwhe Mannu Mannu Mannu Kaoura Kaoura Onre Tahai — — Tahai Rua Rua Torou . — — Torou Ha — — Hea Rema — — Rem a Ono — Ono Etu — — Hetu Warou — Warou Iva — — Heva Angahourou— — — Ahourou Hennihew Heneaho Nihio Mehow — — JVIattai Amootoo — — Teto Mataketake~- — - Mataitai Eheara — — Heiva Keno Keno Bno Eratott Eratou English. The ear. TheJ'ore- head. The eyes. The cheeks. The nose. The mouth. The chin. The arm. Thejingcr. The belli/. The navel. Come hither. Fish, A lobster.. Cocoas. Potatoes. Yams. Birds. No. One. Two. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Nine, Ten. The teeth. The wind. A thief. To examine. To sing. Bad. Trees. New Zealand. Otaheite. Engliiii. Northern. Southern. Eareete Eareete Earee A chiej. Taata Taata Taata A man. VV'hahin« Whahine Tvahine A woman. Eupo Heaowpo-Eupo The bead. ho Mncanwe Heoo-oo Roourou The hair. 3 Eraou Toubonna Toubouna Toubouna €handfa» ther. SWhat do you cull this or that. Hence it appears evidently that the Ian- Oe of New Zealand and Otaheite, is ra^ ly one and the same. The dialect indeed is different as in England, where tbt AND ROUND THE WOULD. «.3 Bnolisu. riie ear. Vhe/ore- head. The eyes. The cheeks. The nose. The mouth. The chin. The arm. Thejingcr. The belli/. The navel. Comchither, Fish. A lobster^ Cocoas. Potatoes. Yams. Birds. No. One. Tivo. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven, Eight. Ten. The teeth. The wind. A thief. To examine. To sing. ~ad. ^ Trees. andfam ther. What do you cull this or that. Lat the Ian- leite, is rar rhe dialect where tht U'ord is pronounced gate jn Middlesex, and ffcate in Yorkshire ; and as the northern and southern words were taken down by two different persons, one might possibly use more words than the other to express the same sound. Besides, in the southern parts they put the articles he or ko before a noun, as we do those of the or « : it is also com- mon to add the word oeia after another word, as we say certainty, or yes indeed ; and by not attendinty sufficiently to this, our gentlemen sometnnes, judging by the ear only, formed words of an enormous length : for example, one of them asking a native the name of the island, called Matuaro, he replied, with the particle ke prefixed Ke-matuaro; and upon the question being repeated,- the In- du- added oeia, which made the word Ke- matuaro oeia; and upon inspecting the log- book, Capt. Cook found Matuaro trans- formed into Cumettiwarroweia. Now a similar orthographical difference might happen, or a like mistake might be made by a foreigner in writing an English word. Suppose a New Zealander to inquire, when near to ask, What village is this ? The answer might be, It is hackney indeed. The Indian then for the information of his countrymen, had he the use of letters, might record, that he had {)assed through, or been at a placo called )y the English Itishackneyindeed. We were ourselves at first led into many ridiculous mistakes, from not knowing that the article used in the South-Sea Islands, is to or /«, instead of kc or ko. We have supposed, that the original inha- bitants of these islands, and those in the South-Seas, came from the same country; but what (country ihi't is, or where situat(>ons. The ship having come to an anchor, we observed a few huts, in which were some of the natives ; and saw some canoes, in each of which was a man employed in striking Hsh with a kind of spear. We had anchored opposite a village of about eight houses, and observed an old woman and three children I'coine out of a wood, laden with fuel for a fire : they were met by three children, all [of whom, as well as the woman, were quite naked. The old woman fi^uently looked at the ship with the utmost indiAerence, and, as soon as she had made a fire, the fishermen brought their canoes on shore, and they set about dressing iheir dinner witli as much composure, as if a> ship had been no extraordinary sight. Having form- ed a design of landing, we manned the boats, and took Tupia with us, and we had no sooner come near the shore, than two men advanced, as if to dispute our sietting foot on land. They were sach of them armed with different kinds of weapons. They called out aloud in a harsh tone, warra warra wai ! tlie meanins^ of v Inch Tupia did not understand. The Captain threw them beads, nails, and oth ;r trifles, which they took up, and seemed very well {deased with. He then made signals that le wanted water, and used every possible means to convince them that no injury was intended. They made signs to the bftat's crew to land, on which we put the boat in, but we had no sooner done so, than the two Indians came again to oppose us. A mus- ket was now tired betw-een them, on the report of which, one of them dropped a bundle of lances, which he immediately snatched up again in great haste. One of them then threw a stone at the boat, on which the captain ordered a musket loaded with small shot to be fired, which wounding' the eldest of them on the legs, he retired hastily to one of the houses, that stood at some little distance. The people in the boats now landed, imagining that the wound which this man had received would put an end to the contest. In this, however, we were mistaken, for he immediately returned with a kind of shield, of an oval figure, painted white in the middle, with two holes in it to see through. They now advanced with great intrepidity, and both discharged their lances at the boat's crew, but did not wound any of them. Another musket was fired at them, on which they threw another lance, and then took to their heels. We now went up to the huts, in one of which we ff»und the children, who had secreted themselves behind some bark. We looked at them, but left them without its being known m« i-iit A'OYAGE TO THE SOUTH SKAS, had seen tliem, and having tlirown several pieces of cloth, ribbands, beads, and other thin'^s into the hot, we took several of their lances, and then re-embarked in the'bopt. The canoes on this coast were abont 13 feet in leni^th, each made of the bark of a single tree, tied up at the ends, and kept open in the middle by the means of sticks placed across them ; their paddles were very small, and two were used at a time. We nojv sailed to the north point of the bay, and found plenty of fresh water. On lakiiipr a view of the hut where we had seen the children, we had the mortification to find that every Indian was fied, and that they had left all the presents behind them. The Captain now went in the pinnace to in5pe held us. More presents were leftin their huts, and at their sleeping-places,' in hopes of pro* ducing a friendly intercourse. We saw the dung of an animal which fed on grass, and traced the foot-steps of another, which had claws like a dog, and was about the size of a wolf: also the track of a small animal, whose foot was like that of a pole-cat ; and saw one animal alive, about the size of a rabbit. We found some wood that had been felled, and the bark stript off by the natives', and several growing trees, in which steps had been cut, tor the convenience of ascending them. The woods abound witli a vast variety of beautiful birds, among which were cQckatooes,and parroquets,whicli flew in large flocks. The second lieuten- ant, Mr. Gore, having been with a boat in order to drudge for oysters, saw some In- dians, who made signs for him to come tm shore, which he declined : having finished his busines.s, he sent the boat away, aiul went by land with a midshipman, to join the party that was getting water. In their way they met with more than 20 of the na- tives, who followed them so close as to come within a few yards of them ; Mr Gore stopped and faced them, on which the In- dians stopped also, and when he proceedid AND HOUND THE WOULD. 87 alone aixl still reliivil the s(n\i\\ Sutlierlau*! e name of , was buried e left ill tli«-- combs, &c. been taken about the ..variegated sing straight b^OQd. The [loiit cuttini* 5S grows in I other,- and I this excur- j where the shelter, and »ment he be- in their huts, hopes of pro. We saw the m grass, and ', which had t the size of [oall animal, lole-cat; and the size of a )d that had )t off by the ees, in which iivenience of abound with rtrds, among oquets.which end lieuten- a boat ill aw some In- to come on bring finished away, and ■man, to ioiii er. In their 20 of the n»' se as to come Mr. Gore hich the In- le proceeded yu'.t again, they followed him ; but they did not attack him though they had each man a lance. The Indian? coming in sight of the water-casks, stoo«l at the di.stance of a quar- ter of a mile, while Mr Gore and his com- i)anions reacheiaoc tVoiti the large number of plants cul- ectecl by Messrs. Banks and Solander. This country produces two kinds of wood which may be deemed timber, one of which is tall and strait like the pine, and the other is hard, heavy, and dark coloured, like liif- num vitae ; it yields a red ^um, like dragon's blood,, and bears some resemblance to the Eng-lish oak. There are man-groves in abundance, several kinds of palmi and a few shrubs. Among other kinds of birds, crows were found herci exactly like those of England. There is great plenty of water- fowls, among the flats of sand and 'mud ; one of which is shaped like a pelican, is larger than a swan, and has black and white feathers. These banks of mud abound with cockles, muscles, oysters, ami other shell-fish, which greatly contribute to- wards the support of the natives, who sometimes dress them on shore, and at other times in their canoes. They likewise caught many other kinds of fish with hooks and line. While the Captain hour, the English coi. » on shore daily, and the name of the ship, with the date of the year, was carved on a tree near the place where we took in our wat*>r. On Sunday, the 6th of May, at noon, we sailed from Botany Bay, antf at noon, were off a harbour, which was called Port Jack- son, and in the evening, near a bay, to which we gave the name of Broken Bay. The ne^t day at noon, the northernmost land in si^ht projected so as to justify the calling it Cape Three Points. On Wednes- day, the 9th, we .saw two exceeding beauti- ful rainbows, the colours of which were strong and lively, and those of the inner one so bright, as to reflect its shadow on the water. They formed a complete semicircle, and the space between them was much darker than the rest of the sky. On Thurs- day we passed a rocky point, which was named Point Stephens. Next day .saw smoke in several places on shore, and in the evening discovered three remarkable high hills near each other, which the Captain ined in the bar- were displayed named the Three Brothers. They lie in latitude 31 deg. 40 min. and may be seen thirteen or fourteen leagues from the shore. Sunday, the 13th, we saw the smoke of fires, on a point of land, which was there* fore called Cape Smokey. As we proceeded from Botany Bay, northward, the land ap- 1)eared high and well covered with wood. [li the afternoon, we discovered some rocky islands between us and the land, the south- ernmost of which is in latitude 30 deg. 10 min. and the northernmost in 2i) 8 min. On Tuesday morning, by the assist- ance of our glasses, we discerned al)out a score of Indians, each loaded with a bundle, which we imagined to be palm leaves for covering their houses. We traced tjiem for more than an hour, during which time they took not the least notice of the ship ; al length they left the beach, and were lost behind a hill, which they gained by a gentle ascent. At noon, in latitude 28 deg. 37 min. 30 sec. south, and in 206 deg. 30 min. west longitude, the Captain discovered a high point of land, and named -it Cane Byron. We continued to steer along tlie shore with a fresh gale, and in the evening we discovered breakers at a consideral)le distance from the shore, so that we were obliged to tack, and get into deeper water ; which having done, we lay with tne head of the vessel to the land till the next morning, when we were surprised to find ourselves farther to the southward than we had been the preceding evening, notwithstanding we had southerly wind all night. The break- ers lie in latitude 28 deg. 22 min. soutli. In the morning we passed the breakers, near a peaked mountain, which we. named Mount Warning, situated in 28 deg. 22 min. south latitude. The point off* which these shoals lie, Capt* Cook named Point Dan- ger. We pursued our course, and the next day saw more breakers, near a point, which we distinguished by the name of Point Look-out ; to the north of which the shore forms a wide open bay, which we called Moreton's Bay, and the north point thereof Cape Moreton. Near this are thi;ee hills, which we called the Glass Houses, from the very strong resemblance they bore to such buildings. ey lie in r be seen he shore, smoke of vas there- proceeded ! luiui sip- ith >vood. oiiie rocky t]»e south- i> de«-. ;')8 the assist- ed about a i) a bun(ile. leaves for d thein for I time tlifv e sliip ; al I were lost by a t?eiitlp 28 deg. 37 eg. 30 min. iscovered a ed 'it Cane r along tne the evening lonsiderable at we were eper water ; tne head of xt morning, d ourselves ve had been ;tanfliiig we The break- min. south, e breakers, we. named Jeg. 22 min. ^iiich these .'oint Dan- nd the next loint, which of Point Ih the shore li we calletl loint thereof thvee hills, ;es, from the lore to such AND KOIIND THE WORLD. 89 On Friday, the I8th, at two in the morn- ftig, ^^t■ descrii'd a point so im*qnal, that it looked like two *ul>le Island Point. At noon, by the help of glasses, we discovered some sands, which lav n\ patches of several acres. We observed Ihey weie moveable, and that they Iiad not been long in their present situation ; for we saw trees half biiried, and the tops of others still green. At this time two beautiful water-snakes swam by the ship, in every respect resem- bling land snakes, except that (heir tads were flat and broad, probably to serve them insteadof tins in swimming. Saturday, the 19th, at no(m, we saded about four leagues from the land, and at one o'clock saw a point, whereou a number of Indians were assend)lecl, from whence it was called Indian Head. Soon afterwards we saw many more of the natives; also imoke in the'day time, and tires by night. ' The next day we saw a point, wl ich was named Sandy Point, from two larg» tracts of white sand that were on it. Soon after we passed a shoal, which we called Break Sea Spit, because we had now smooth water, ' after having long encountered a high sea. For some days past we had seen the sea birds, called boobies, none of which we had met with before ; and which, from half an hour after, were continually passing the ship in large tbghts : from which it was conjee-^ turecl," that there was an inlet or river of shallow water to the southward, where they went to feed in the day time, returning in the evening to some islands to the north- Ward. Tn lionour of Capt. TIervey we named this bay, Hervey's Bay. On Tuesday, the 22nd, at six in the morn- ing, b)"^ the help of our glasses, when abreast , of the south point of a large bay, in which \ the Captain intended to anchor, we disco- • vered, that the land was covered with i)alm- i nut-trees, none of which we had seen since we had quitted the islands witliin the tropic. On the 23rd, early in the morning, Capt. Cook attended by several gentlemen, and ITupia, went on .shore to examine the coun- Itry. The wind blew so fresh, and we found lit so cold, that being at some distance from tlie shore, we took with us our cloaks. We liiiuled a little within the point of a bay, w hicli led into a large lagoon, by the sides of which grows the true nian-grove, .such as is found in the West-Indie.s, as it does also on some boirs, and swamps of salt-water which we discovered. In these man-groves were many nests of ants of a .singular Uind^ being as green as grass. When the branches were moved, they came forth in great num- bers, and bit the disturber most .severely. These trees likewise atlbrded shelter for im- mense nannbers of green caterpillars, whose botlies were covered with liairs, which, on the touch, occa. ioned a pain similar to the sting of a nettle, but much mpre acute. These insects were ranged side by side on the leaves, thirty or forty together, in a re- gular manner. Among the sand bank.s we saw birds larger than swans, which we ima- gined were pelicans ; and shot a kind of bustard, which weighed seventeen pounds. This bird proved very delicate food, on which account we named this bay Bustard Bay. We likewise shot a duck of a most beautiful plumage, with a white beak. We found an abundance of oysters, of various sorts, and amongthe rest some hammer oysters of a cu- rious kind. The country here is much worse than that about Botany Bay, the soil beings dry and sandy, but the sides of the hills are covered with trees, which grow separately without underwood. We saw the tree that yields a gum like the sam^uis draconis, but the leaves are longer than the same kind of trees in other parts, and' hang down like those of a wee])ing willow. While we were in the woods, several of the natives took a survey of the ship and then departed. We .saw on shore tires in many places, and re- pairing to one of them, found a dozen burn- mg near them. The i)eople were gone, but had left some shells and bones of iis'a they had just eaten. We perceived likewise se- veral pieces of soft bark about the length and breadth of a man, which we judged had been used as beds. The whole was in a thicket of close trees, which atForded good shelter from the wind. This kind of en- campment was in a thicket well defended from the wind. The place seemed to be 90 TOVAGE TO TIIE SOUTH SEAS. m '.. / much trorldeii, and as there was no appear- uiice of a lioDsie, it W8« imagined tliat tiiey iRoeiit their iii^lits, an well un their days in the open air : even Tupia shook his head, and exclaimed, Taata Enos ! " Poor Wretches !" On Thursday, the 24thi we made sail out of the bay, ana on the day foilowinfjr were abreast of a point which bein^ immediately under the tropic, the Captain named Cape Capricorn, on the west side wherjeof we saw an amazing number of large birds resem- bling the pelican, some of wnich were near five feet high. We now anchored in twelve fathoms water, having the main land and barren isltyids in a manner all around us Sunday, the 27th, we stood between the range of almost barren islands, and the main land, which appeared mountainous. We had here very shallow water, and anchored in sixteen feet, which was not more than the ship drew. Mr. Banks tried to fish from the cabin windows, but the water was too shallow. The ground indeed was co- vered with crabs, which greedily seized the bait, and held it till they were above water. These crabs were of two kinds, one of a very fine blue, with a white bellj^ ; and the other marked with blue on the joints, and having three brown spots on the back. On Monday, the 28th, in the morning, we sailed to the northward, and to the nor- thernmost point of land we gave the name of Cape Manifold, from the number of high hills appearing ahove it. Between this cape and the shore is a bay which we called Keppel's, and to several islands, we gave the name of the same admiral. This day being determined to keep the main land close aboard, which continued to tend away to the west, we got among another cluster of islands. Here we were greatly alarmed, having on a sudden but three fathoms water, in a ripling tide ; we immediately put the ship about, and hoisted out the boat in search of deei>er water; after which we stood to tlio west with an easy sail, and in the evening came to the entrance of a bay. lu the afternoon having sounded round tlie ship, and found that there was water Rutlicieut to carry her over the shoal, we .2 weighed, and stood to the westward, havmi; sent a boat a head to sound, and at six in the evenuig we anchored in ten fathoms, with a sandy bottom, at about two miles distant from the main. On Tuesduy, the 29th, we had thoughts of laying the ship ashore, and cleaning her bottom, and therefore landed with the mav ter in search of a convenient place for that . purpoi^e. In this excursion Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks accompanied us ; we found w..lking extremely incommodious, the ground being covered with grass, the seeds of which were sharp and bearded, so that they were continually sticking in our clothes, whence they worked forwards to the flesh by means of the beard. We were also perpetually tormented with thg stings of moscliettos. Several places were found convenient to lay down the ship ashore, but to our great disappointment, we could meet with no fresh water. We proceeded, how- ever, up the country, and in the interior parts, we found gum-trees, on the branches whereof were white ants nests formed of clay, as big as a bushel. On another tree we saw black ants, which i»erforated all the twigs, and aftt-r they had eaten out the pith, fornted their lodging in the hollows which contained it ; yet the trees were in a flourishing condition. We also saw in the air many thousands of butterflies, which ever way we looked ; and every bough was covered with incredible numbers. On the dry ground we discovered, supposed to have been left by fhe tide, a fish anout the size of a minnow, having two strong breast fins, with which it leaped away as nimbly as a frog : it did not aj>|><>ar to be weakened by being out of the water, nor even to prefer that element to ilie land, for when .seen in the water it leaped on shore, and pursued its way. It was likewise remarked, that where tliere were small stones projecting above the water, it cho»;e rather to leap from one stune to another, than to pass tliroui,^h the water. On Wednesday, the .30th, Capt. QooV, and other gentUnien. went ashore, and luiv- ing gained the suu.uiit ol a hill, took a siir> vey of the coast, and the adjaeeut islands, AND ROUND THE WORLD. 9i d, bavins at six in fathonis, wo miles thoughts aniiig her li the mas* e for that 8oIunder we found lious, ttie 5, the seeds d, so that ig in our orwards to We were tht stings vere found ashore, but could meet jeded, how- the interior le branches ( formed of ^nother tree ated all the en out the the hollows IS were in a saw in the flies, which f bough was ers. On the osed to have lOut the size breast fins, nimbly as a veakened by en to prefer 'hen seen in iiid imrsned larked, that s projecting to leap from >ass through Capt. QooV> ore, and Imv- took a siir* iceut islands, which being done, the Captain proceedet with Dr. S«»hinder up lui inlet, that hud been thscovered the preceding day; but the weather proviu'-r nntUv<»ural>le, and from a f<>iir of heitm- l>ewiMered among the shoals in the niyht, tiiev returned to the ship, hav- iiift se(Mi the whole day, only two Indians, who followed the boat a considerable way alonir slioic : but the tide running stronjf, the Captain finnight it not prudent to wait for them. While these gentlemen were tracing the inlet, JMr. Banks, with a party, endeavoured to penetrate into the country, and having met with a piece of swainpy ground, we resolved to pass it; but before we got half way, we found the mud alnio«t knee deep. The bottom was covered witli brancltes of trees, interwoven on the suri'ace of the swamp, on which we sometimes kept our tooting ; sometimes our feet slipt t\ rougli ; and sometimes we were so en- tangled among them, as not to be able to free ourselves "but by groping in the mud and slime with our hands. However, we crossed it in about an hour, and judged it might be about a quarter of a mile over. Having ])erformed this disagreeable task, we came to a spot where had been four small fires, near which were some bones of fish that had been roasted ; also grass laid in heaps, whereon four or five persons pro- bably had slept. Our second lieutenant, Mr. Gore, at another place, saw the track of a lar^e animal, near a gully of water ; he alVo heard the sounds of human voices, but did not see the people. At this place two turtles, some water fowl, and a tew small birds, were seen. As no water was to be found in our different excursions, for several of our crew were also rambling about, the Captain called the mlet where the ship Jay, Thirsty Sound. It lies in latitude 22 deg. 10 min. south, and in 210 deg. 18 min. west longitude, and may be known by a group of islands that lie right before it, between three and four leagues out at sea. We had not a single inducement to stay longer in a placp, where we could not be supplied with fresh water, nor with provision of any kind. We caught neither fish nor wild fowl ; nor eoidd we get a shot at the same kind of water-fowl, which we had seen in Botany Bay. Therefore on the 31st, at six o'eloi u A. M . we weighed anchor, and put to sea. We kept without the islands that lie in. shore, and to the N. W\ of Thirsty Sound, as there appeared to be no safe passage he- tween them and the main, at the .same time we had a number of islands without us, ex- tending as far as we could see. Pier head, the N. W. point of Thirsty Sound, bore S. K. distant six leagues, being half way between the islands which are off the east point of the western inlet, and three small islands that lie directly without them. Having sailed round these last, we came to an anchor in fifteen fathoms water, and the weather-being dark, hazy, and rainy, we re< mained under the lee of them till seven o'clock of the next morning. On the 1st, of June, we ^ot under sail, and our latitude by observation was 21 deg. 29 min. south. We had now quite open the western inlet, which we have distinguished by the name of Broad Sound. A point of land which forms its N. W. entrance, w« named Cape Palmerston, lying in 21 deg. 30 min. S. latitude, and in 210 deg. Miiiin. W. longitude. Between this cape and Cape Townshend is the bav, which we have called the Bay of Inlets. At eight in the evening, we anchored in eleven fathoms, wit!i a sandy bottom, about two leagues from the main land. Saturday, the 2nd, we got under sail, and at noon, in latitude 20 deg. 56 min. we saw a high promontory, which we named Cape Hillsborough. .It bore W. half N. distant seven miles. The land appeared to abound in wood and herbage, and is diversified with hills, plain.s, and valleys. A chain of islands large and small are situated at a distance from the coast and under the land, from some of which we saw smoke ascending in different places. On Sunday, the 3rd, we discovered apoint of land, which we called Cape Conway, and between that and Cape Hillsborough, a bay to which we gave the name of Repulse Bay. The land about Cape Conway, forms a most beautiful landscaj>e, being diverse- fied with hills, dales, woods, and verdaul ;OYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, m i:': lawns. By the help of our glasses \^e dis- covered two men and a woman on one of Uie islands, and a canoe with av'^ outrigger ilike those ot'Otaheite. This day we named the islands Ouml)erland Islands, in honour of the duke; and a passage which we had discovered, was called VV hitsunday passage, from the day on which it was seen. At day-break, on Monday, the 4th, we were abreast of a point, which we called Cape Gloucester. Names were also given this day to three other places, namely, Hol- bourne Isle, Edgcumbe Bay, and Cape Up- start, which last was so called because it rises abruptly from the low lands that sur- round it. Inland are some hills or moun- tains, which like the cape afford but a bar- ren prospect. On Tuesday, the 5th, we were about four leagues from land, and our latitude by observation was 19 deg. 12 min. S. We saw very large columns of smoke rising from the low lands. We continued to steer W. N. W. as the land lay, till noon on the 6th, when our latitude by observation was 19 deg. 1 min. S. at which time we had the moutn of a bay all open, distant two leagues. This we. named Cleveland Bay, and the east J)oint Cape Cleveland. The west, which lad the appearance of an island, we called Magnetical island, because the compass did not traverse well when we were near it: they are both high, as is the main lanf some small islands, which were named FriiiikJjtmi's Isles. At noon we were in the niiddif oi' (lie channel, and by observation ii; latitude Mi {\eii;. 57 min. S. and in longitude '2\4 deg. (i min. W. with twenty fathoms walei'. The point on the main of which we were now abreast Capt. Cook named Cape Grafton. Having hauled round this, we found a bay three miles to the westward, in which we anchored ; and called the island Green Island. Here Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went ashore with the Captain, with a view of procuring water, whicli not being to be had easily, they soon returned aboard, and the next day we ar- rived near Trinity Bay, so called because discovered on Trinity Sunday. Sunday, the lOth, was remarkable for tli« dangerous situation of the Endeavour, jis was Tuesday, the Tith ; for lier preservation and deliverance, as Christians, or only moral philosophers, we ought to add, agreealile to the will of an overruling piovidence, who shut up the sea with jloors, who ap|)(>iutt'(l for it a decreed jilace, and said, liius (iir thou shalt come, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed. As no accident remarkubiy f for the 7\nc\\ ve Aeen this J Halitax lU winds, •east ot a ipe Saiul- s W. and »ay, which nowrang- irdsaclus- lit forty or ere stand, looking at observed noon our eg. 59inin. li point oi lom us W. oundary oi f considera- lied by the lorning, we nds, which At noon we lel, and by 57 niin. S. n. W. with oint on the reast Capt. ving hauled lee miles to bored ; and Here Mr. ashore with luring water, , they soon day we ar- ed. because lable for tlifl Ideavour, '.IS [preservatinn Ironly moral laureealde to Tideuce, ulio lo appointed \l Thus t!ir I) thy prond reiuarKubij AND ROUND TlilE WORLD. »3 unlortunatenal befallen us, daring a uavi- anohorfrom the starboard quarter,and applied gation of more than thirteen hundred nii\es, our \vhole lor«;e to the «,^a|)stau, ni hopes to m»oii a coast every where aboundine: with get the vessel ort, but m vain. Siie now the most dangerous rocks and shoals, no beat so violently against the rock, that the name of distress had hitherto been given crew could scarcely keep on their legs. The toanycai)eor point of land which we had nioou shone bright, by the light of which seen. But we now gave the name of Cape we could see the sheaJhing-boards float from Tribulation, to a point we had just seen the bottom of the vessel, till at length the failhe-^t to the northward, because here mg fuhe ket i followed, so that we expected in- • became acquainted with misfortune. The stant destruction. Our best chance of es- ■ cane lies in latitude 16 deg. 6 min. S. and caping seemed now to be by lightening her; - 214 «leg. 39 min. W. longitude. but having struck at high water, we should This day, Sunday, the 10th, at six in the have been in our present situation alter the evening we shortened sail, and hauled off vessel should draw as much less water as the shore close upon a wind, to avoid the dan- water had sunk ; our anxiety abated a little, ger of some rocks which were seen ahead, on finding that the ship settled on the rocks and to observe whether any islands lay in as the tide ebbed, and we flattered ourselves, • the oHin;, as we were near the latitude of that, if the ship should keep together tjll those islands, said to have been discovered next tide, we might have some chance of bv Quiros. We kept standimr off from 'six floating her. AV e therelore instantly started 'o'clock till near nine, with a tine breeze and the water m the hold, and pumped it up. bright moon. We had got into twenty-one The decayed stores, oil-jars, casks, ballast, fathoms water, when suddenly we fell into si^ g">is and other things, were thrown twelve, ten, and eight fathoms, in a few mi- overboard, ni order to get at the heavier ar- nutes. Every man was instantly ordered to tides ; and in this business we were employ- Tiis station, and we were on point of anchor- cc! till day-break, during all which time not ins», when, on a sudden, we had again deep an oath was sworn, so much were the minds water, so that we thought all danger at an of the sailors impressed with a sense of their ,cnd, concluding we had sailed over the tafl danger. lOf some shoals which we had seen in the On Monday, the 11th, at day-light we 'evening. We had twenty fathoms and up- saw land at eight leagues distance, but not wards "before ten o'clock, and this depth a single island between us and the main, continuing some time, the gentlemen, who on which part of the crew might have been had hitherto been upon duty, retired to rest; landed, while the boat went on shore with but in less than an hour the water shallow- the rest : so that the destruction of the cd at once from twenty to seventeen fathoms, greater part of us would have been inevita- and before soundings could be taken, the ble, had the ship gone to pieces. It hap- ship struck upon a rock, and remained iin- I)ened that the wind died away to a dead moveable. Every one was instantly on calm before noon. As we exjiected high- deck, with countenances fully expressive of water about eleven o'clock, every thing was , the honors of our situation. Knowing we l)repared to make another ertbrt to free the I were not ^'.ear the shore, we concluded that ship, but the tide fell so much short of that „|we weiv upon a rock of coral, the [loints of in the night, that she did not float by IS / 1 which ire sharp, and the surface so rough, inches, though we had thrown over-boaul las to grind away w hatever it rubbed against, near fifty tons weight : we therefore renewed p even uith the gentlest motion. All the sails our toil, and threw over-boanl ev>^ry thing * being immediately taken in, and our boats that could possibly .be spared ; as the tide * hoisted out, we found, that the ship had fell, the water pouretl in so rapidly, that we ^Ml'ten lifted over a ledge of the rock, and lay could scarce keep her free by the constant Win a hollow within it. Finding the water working of two pumps. Our only hnya rtiis deepefe't astern, we carried out the now depended on the midnight tide, and 94 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, preparations were accordingly made for ano- thci- ettbrt to fjfet the ship off. The tide he- fran to rise at five o'clock, when the leak ikewise increased to such a degree, that two pumps more were manned, but only one of them would work ; three, therefore, were kept proin^, till nine o'clock, at which time the ship rigfhted ; but so much water had been admitted by the leak, that we expected she would sink as soon as the wa- ter should bear her off the rock. Our situa- tion was now deplorable, beyond description, almost all hope being at an end. We knew that when the fatal moment should arrive, all authority would be at an end. The boats were incapable of conveyine: all on shore, and we dreaded a contest for the pre- ference, as more shocking than the sliip- wreck itself: yet it was considered, that those who might be left on board, wtuild eventually meet with a milder fate than those who, by gaining the shore, would have no chance but to linger out the remains of life among the rudest savages in the universe, and in a country, where tire-arms would barely enable them to support themselves in a most wretched situation. At twenty minutes after ten the ship floated, and was heaved into deep water, when we were happy to find that she did not admit more water than she had done before : yet as the leak had for a considerable time gained on the pumps, there was now three feet nine inches water in the hold. By this time the men were so worn by fatigue of mind and body, that none of them could pump more than five or six minutes at a time, and then threw themselves, quite spent, on the deck, amidst a stream of water which came froin (he pumps. The succeeding man being fatigued in his turn, threw himself down in the same manner, while the former jumped up and renewed, his.labour^ thus mutually straggling for life, till the tbllowiiig accident had like to have given tFiem up a prey to aosoiute despair, and thereby insured our destruction. Between the inside lining of the ship's bottom, which is called the ciel- ing, and the outside planking, tiiere is a snace of about seventeen or eighteen inches. 1 he man who had hitherto taken the depth a of water at the well, had taken it no fat*, ther than the deling, but being now relieved l)y another person, who took the depth of the outside plank, it appeared by this mis- take, that the leak had suddenly gained upon the pumps, the whole difference be tween the two nlanks. This circumstance deprived us of all hopes, and scarce any out; thought it worth while to labour tor the Ion- ger preservation of a life wbidi must so soon have a period : but the mistake was soon discovered ; and the joy arising from such unexpected good news inspired the men with so much vigour, that before eight o'clock in the morning,they had pumped out considerably more water than they had shipped. We now talked of nothing but getting the ship into some harbour, and set heartily to work to get in the anchors ; one of which, and the cable of another, we lost; but these were now considered as trifles. Having a good breeze from sea, we got \m- der sail at eleven o'clock, and steered for land. As we coidd not discover the exact situation of the leak, we had no prospect ol stopping it within side of the vessel* but on Tuesday the 12th, the following expedient, which one of the midshipmen had formerly seen tried with success, was adopted. We took an old studding-sail, and having mixed a large quantity of oakham and wool, chopped small, it was stitched down in handfuls on the sail, as lightly as possible, the dung of sheep and other filth being spread over it. Thus prepared, the sail Wii!^ hauled under the ship, by ropes, which kej»i it extended till it came under the leak, when the suction carried in the oakham and wool from the surface of the sail. This exneii- ment succeeded so well, that instead oftlini' pumps, the water was easily kept under wifli one. We had hitherto no farther view than Id run the ship into some harbour, and buiKI a vessel from her materials, in which we might reach the East-Indies ; but we now began to think of finding a proper place to . repair her damage, and then to pursue iier voyage on its original plan. At six in the evening we anchored seven leagues from the sho^e : and found that the ship made , AND ROUND THE WORLD. 95 it no fa«'- w relieved * depth ot I this mis- ily gained fereiu'e be [Oiimstanoe •ce any one t<»r the lon- lust so soon e wa!^ soon from snch 1 the ineu efore eight [jumped out i they had nothing but (our, and set nchors; one iier, we lost ; ;d as trifles, we got nn I steered for jr tlie exact o prospect ot 'sselt but on g expedient, lad formerly [lopted. We aving mixed and wool, ed down in as possible, filth being , the sail W!\s s, which ke))! e leak, wli^n am and wool This exneii- stead of thivc pt under witli view than io ar, and bulKl in which >ve but we now oper place to ;o pursue her At six in the lleagues from « ship matlt lo inches water an hour during the night: but as the pumps could clear this quantity, we were not uneasy. At nine in the morn- ing we passed two islands, which were called Hope Islands, because the reaching of them had been the object of our wishes, at the time of the shipwreck. In the afternoon, the muster was sent out with two boats to sound and search for a harbour where the ship might be repaired, and we anchored at sun-set, in four fathoms water, two miles from the shore. One of the mates being sent out in the pinnace, returned at nine o'clock, reporting, that he had found such a harbour as was wanted, at the distance of two leagues. . , , , Wednesday, the 13th, at six o clock, we sailed, having previously sent two boats aheaii, to point out the shoals that we saw in our way. We soon anchored about a mile from the shore, when the Captain went out, and found the channel very narrow, but the harbour was better adapted to our prc.ent purpose, than any place we had seen in the whole course of the voyage. As it blew rery fresh this day and the follow- ing night, we could not venture to run into the harbour, but remained at anchor during the two succeeding days, in the course oi which we observed four Indians od the hills who stopi)ed and made two fires. Our men, by this time, began to be afflict' ed with the scurvy ; and our Indian friend Tupia was so ill with it, that he had livid spots on both his legs Mr. Green, the astronomer, was likewise ill of the same disorder ; so that our being detained from landing was every way disagreeable. The wind continued fresJi till the 17th, and then we resolved to push in for the harbour, and twice ran the ship aground ; the second time she stuck fast, on whioh we took down the bombs, fore-yard, and fore-top-masts, and made a raft on the side of the ship ; and, as the tide happened to be rising, she floated at one o'clock. We soon got her into the harbour, where she was moored along the side of a beach, and the anchors, cables, kc. immediately taken out of hec. CHAP. IX. < The ship is refitted, in Endeavour River ; Transactions during that time ;. The country, it» inhabitants and productions described ; A description of the harbour ^ the adjacent country, and several islands near the roast ; The range Jrom Endeavour River to the northern extremity of the country ; And the dangers of that navigation ; The Endeavour departs from South Wales • That country f its product and people described, with a specimen of the Intiguage. ON Monday, the 18th, in the morning, we erecteti a tent for the sick, who iwere brought on shore as soon as it was rea- ?dy for their reception. We likewise built stage from the ship to the shore, and set p a tent to hold the provisions and stores, hat were landed the same day. The boat us now di into the ixiuntry, to whom he sliewed a plant which served them for greens, and which the inhabitants of the West-Indies call Indian Kale. • Here we saw a trtf AND ROUND THE WORLD. 5)7 J crept so I had not hed him." af'terwarda which we 'ul appear- large as a appreh?\i. li horns, ty of men inch or two n calibages, : and thia ks saw the [lad a lonj? Lind, leaped foot resein- 5 of the ship jen finished ers now ba I bow; and red she iiad hat cp tarter. s whole col. room, thoy which some d ; however ere restored plant \yas Lves of which age ; also a d the size of having been lamson. On iter was en- the men in n the 27tli, ivork at the ship; while lis with the iveen .twenty distributed jO were not this day to [the ai"ter- part jer. On the ;eameii went he shewed a irrecns, and West-Indies saw a tre< notched for climbing : also nests of white plenty of other shell-fish, of which he auts from a few inches to five feet in height, brought a supply to the ship, in his return prints of men's feet, and the tracks of three to which he had landed m a bay whei "" ■ '■ ^ some Indians were at supper; but tljey "' prints of men's feet, and the iracKS oi uirec lu wimn nc nau jauucu m u uaj wnere or four animals were likewise discovered. some Indians were at supper ; but they in- On Friday, the 29th, at two o'clock in the stantly retired, leaving some sea eggs by a mornin«^ Capt. Cook with Mr. Green, ob- fire for dressing them. Tiiis day we made served an emersion of Jupiter's first satellite: another attempt to float the ship, and hap- the time here was 2 hours 18 inin. 53 sec. pily succeeded at high water ; when we which makes the longitude of this place 214 found, that by the position she had laid in, deg 42 min. 30 sec. W. and the latitude one of her planks was sprung, so that it 15 de"-. 26 min. S. At dawn of day the was again necessary to lay her ashore. An boat was sent out to haul for fish, and took alligator swam by her several times at high what made an allowance of one pound and water , ,, a half to each man. One of our mid- Wednesday, the 4th, was employed in ihipmen, this day abroad with his gun, trimming her upon an even keel, warping reported, that he had seen a wolf, re- her- over, and laying her down on a sand- sembling exactly the same species in Ame- bank, on the south side of the river ; and on rica, at which he shot, but — '-' ""* **"- "''-* ''"" *^'' ^^*^^ ^^-^ -^^ — ■" i4»~* -j could not kill it. The next morning, being the 30th, the Captain ascended a hill to take a view of the sea, when he observed innumerable sand banks and shoals, in every direction ; but to the northward there was an appear- ance of a passage, which seemed the only the next day, the 5th, she was again floated, and moored otf the beach, in order to re- ceive the stores on board. This day we crossed the harbour, and found on a sandy beach a great number of fruits, not disco- vered before; among others a cocoa-nut, which Tupia said had been opened by a way to steer clear of the surrounding dan- crab, and was judged to he what the Dutch gers, especially as the wind blows constantly call Beurs Krabbe. The vegetable sub- from the S. E. • Mr. Gore saw this day two stances which Mr. Banks picked up were straw coloured animals of t|ie size of a hare, incrusted with marine productions, and co- shaped like a dog. In the afternoon the vered with barnacles, a proof of their having people returned with such a quantity of fish, been transplanted, probably from Terra that two pounds and a half were distributed del Esperito Santo. This gentleman with a to each man ; and plenty of greens had party having sailed n|> the river on the 6th, been gathered, which when boiled with peas made an excellent mess, and we all to make an excursion up the country, re- turned on the 8th. Having followed the course of the river, they found it at length contracted into a narrow channel, bounded by steep banks, ac^orned with trees of a most beautiful appearance, among which was the bark tree, i'he land was low and covced with grass, and seemed cai)able of being cultivated to great advantage. The night. thought this day's fare an unspeakable re- freshment. On Sunday, the 1st of July, all the crew had permission to go on shore, except one from each mess, part of whom were again sent out with' the seine, and were again equally successful. Soineof our people who went up in the country, gave an account of thou&,h we had made a fire on the banks of their having seen several animals, and a fire the river, was rendered extremely disagree- about a mile up the river. On Tuesday, able by the stings of the moschettos. that cause an almost intolerable torment. Going in pursuit of game, we saw four animals, two of which were chased by Mr. Banks's greyhound, but they greatly outstripped him in speed, by leaping over the long thick the 3rd, the master, wno had been sent m the pinnace, returned, and reported, that he had found a passage out to sea, between shoals which consisted of coral rocks, many whereof were dry at low water. He found some cockles so large, that one of them was more than sufficient for two men : likewise O grass, which incommoded the dog in run- ning. It was observed of the animaLs, that 96 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS. tliey bounded forward on two legs instead of running on four. Having returned to the boat we proceeded up the river, till it con- tracted to a brook of fresh water, but in which the tide rose considerably. Having stopped to pass the night, witd hope of some rest, we saw a smoke at a distance, on which three of us approached it, but the Indians were gone. \Ve saw the ini[>res- sions of feet on the sand, below high-water mark, and found a tire still burning in the hollow of an old tree. At a small distance were several huts, and we observed ovens dug in the ground : the remains of a recent meal were likewise apparent. We now re- tired to our resting-place, and slept on phwi- tain leaves, with a bunch of grass for our pillows, on the side of a sand-bank, under the shelter of a bush. The tide favouring our return in the morning, we lost no time in getting back to the ship. The master, who had been seven leagues at sea, returned soon after Mr. Banks, bringing with him three turtles, which he took with a boat- hook, and which together weighed near e'.ght hundred pounds. He was sent out next morning, and Mr. Banks accompanied him with proper instruments for catching tur- tle ; but not being successful, he would not. go back that night, so that Mr. Banks, after collecting some shells and marine produc- tions, returned in his own small boat. In the morning the second lieutenant was sent to bring the master back, soon after which four Indians, in a small canoe, were within sight. The Captain now determined to take no notice of these peof le, as the most likely way to be noticed by them. This project answerered ; two of them came within musket shot of the vessel, where they con- versed very loud : in return, the people on board shouted, and made signs of nivitation. The Indians gradually approached, with their lances held up ; not in a menacing manner, but as if they meant to intimate that they were capable of defending them- selves. They came almost along-side, when the Captain threw them cloth, nails, paper, &c. which did not seem to attract their n. ■ tice ; at length one of the sailors threw a small fish, which'so pleased tliem, that they their complexion their hair black, not of the woo.My hinted their designs of bringing their com. panions, and immediately rowed for the shore. In the interim, Tupia and some of the crew landed on the opposite shore. The four Indians now came quite along-side tlie ship, and having received farther presents, landed where Tupia and the suitors had gone. They had each two lances, and a stick with which they threw them. Ad- vancing towards the English, IVipia per- suaded them to lay down their arms> and sit by him, which they readily did. Others of the crew now going on shore, the Indians seemed jealous, lest they should get between them and their arms, but care was taken to convince them that no such thing was in- tended, and more trifles were presented to them. The crew staid with them till din- ner-time, and then made signs of invitation for them to go to the ship and eat ; but this they declined, and retired in their canoe. These men were of ihe cojnmon stature, with very small limbs ; ' was of a deep chocolate ; either lank or curled, but kind ; the breasts and upper lip of one of them were painted with streaks of white, which he called carbanda, and some j>art of their bodies had been painted red. Their teeth were white and even, their eyes bright, and their features rather pleasing; their voices musical, and they repeated several English words with great readiness. The next morning, the visit of three of these Indians was renewed, and they brought with them a fourth, whom they called Yaparico, who appeared to be a per- son of some consequence. The bone of a bird, about six incites long, was thrust through the gristle of his nose ; and indeed all the inhabitants of this place had their noses bored, for the reception of such an or- nament. These people being all naked, the Captain gave one of them an old shirt, which he bound round his head like a turban, in< stead of using it to cover any part of his body. They brought a fish to the ship, which was supposed to be in payment for that given them the day before : after stay ing some time with apparent satisfaction, they suddenly leaped into tlieir canoe, asd AND ROUND THE WORLD. 90 leir com. 1 for the 1 some of ore. The g-side the f ►resents, ors had es, and a em. Ad- iVjpia per- med and sit Others of lie Indians et between as taken to iiej was in- esented to m till din- f invitation it ; but this lieir canoe, lon stature, complexion hair black, f the woo.My ) of one of s of white, 5ome iwirt ot red. Their eyes bright, ising ; their ited several ess. of three of and they whom they lo be a per- bone of a was thrust and indeed ; had their such an or- 1 naked, the shirt, which turban, in* part of his lo the ship, lyment for after stay satisfaction, canoe, mm! rowed off, from a Jealousy of some of the gentlemen who were examining it. On the I'ith, of July, three Indians visited Tupia's tent, and after remaining some time, weat for two others, whom they intioduced by name. Some fish was offered them, but they seemed not much to regard it; after eating^ a little, they gave the remainder to Mr. Banks's dog. Some ribbands which had been»given them, to which me'dals were suspended round their necks, were so chang- ed by smoke, that it was difficult to judge what colour they had been, and the smoke had made their skins look darker than their natural colour, from whence it was thought that they had slept close to their fires, as a preventative against the sting of the mos- chettos. lioth the strangers had bones through their.noses, and a piece of bark tied over their foreheads ; and one of them had an ornament of strings round his arm; and an elegant necklace made of shells. Their cnuoe was about ten feet long, and calculat- ed to hold four persons, and when it was in shftUow water they moved it by the help of p(jles. Their lances had only a single point, nnd some of them were barbed with fish- bones. On the 14th, Mr. Gore shot one of the mouse-coloured animals above-men- tioned. It chanced to be a young one, weighing more than 38 pounds ; but when they are full grown, they are as large as a aheep. The skin of this beast which is call- ed Kangaroo, is covered with short fur, and is of a dark mouse colour; the head and ears are somewhat like those of a hare ; this animal was dressed for dinner, and proved fine eating. The ship's crew fed on turtle almost every day, which were finer than those eaten in England, owing to their being killed before their natural fat was wasted, and their juices changed. On the 17th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went with the Captain into the woods, and saw four Indians in a canoe, who went on shore, and walked up without sign of fear. They accef»ted some beads, and departed, intimating that they dH not chose to be fol- lowed. Tlie natives being now become fa- tniliar with the shiv»'s crew, one of them was i desired to throw his lance, which he did 3 with such dexterity ami force, that though it was not above four feet from the ground at the highest, it penetrated deeply into a tr(^ at the distance of fitty yards, 'ihe na- tives now came on board the ship, and were well pleaded with their entertainment. On the 19th, we saw several of the women, who, as well as tlie men, were quite naked. We were this day visited by ten Indians, who seemed resolved to have one of the turtles that was on board, which they re- jieatedly made signs for, and being as re- peatedly refused, they expressed the utmost rage and resentment, one of them in parti- cular, having received a denial from Mr. Banks, he stamped, and pushed him away in a most violent manner. At length they laid hands on two of the turtles, and drew them to the side of the ship where the canoe lay, but the sailors took tnem away. They made several similar attempts, but being equally unsuccessful, they leaped suddenly into their canoe, and rowed off. At this in- stant the Captain, with Mr. Banks, and five or six of the seamen, went on shore, where they arrived before the Indians, and. where many of the crew were already employed. As soon as the Indians landed, one of them snatched a fire brand from under a pitch- kettle, and running to the windward of what effects were left on shore, set fire to the dry grass, which burned rapidly, scorched a pig to death, burned part of the smith's forge, and would have destroyed a tent of Mr. Banks, but that some people came from the ship just in time to get it out of the way of the flames. In the mean while the Indians went to a place where the fishing- nets lay, and a quantity of linen was laid out to dry, and there, again set fire to the grass, in spite of all persuasion, and even of threats. A musket loaded with small shot was fired, and one of them being wounded, they ran away, and this second fire was ex- tinguished ; but the other burned far into the woods. The Indians still continuing in .sight, a musket charged with ball was fired, the re- Eort only.of which sent them out of sight ; ut their voices being h6ard in the woods, the Captain with a few ]>eople went to moat 100 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, Ihein. Botli parties stopped when in sight oi'each other; at which time an old Indian advanced before the rest a little way, but soon lialted. and after having spoke some ■words, which we could not understand, he #etreated to his companions, and they all retired siowly in a bodjr. Having found means to seize some of their darts, we conti- nued following them about a mile, and then tat down upon some rocKs, the Indians sit- ting down also about an hundred yards from us. The old man again came forward, hav- ing a lance without a point in his hand ; he stopped several times at different distances, '(tina spoke, whereupon the Captain made signs of friendship, which they answered. ITie old man now turned, and spoke aloud to his companions, who placed their lances against a tree, and came forward in a friendly manner. When they came up to us. We returned the darts we had taken, and we perceived with great satisfaction, that this rendered the reconciliation complete. In this party were four persons whom we had not seen before, who, as usual, were intro- duced to us by name, but the man who had been wounded in the attempt to burn our nets, was not among them. Having receiv- ed from us some trinkets, they walked ami- cably toward the coast, intimating by signs, that they would not fire the grass again. When we came opposite the ship they sat down, but we could noi prevail with them to go on board. They accepted a few musket balls, the use and effect of which the Captain endeavoured to explain. We then left them, and when arrived at the ship, we saw the woods burning at the dis- tance of two miles. We had no conception of the fnry with which grass will burn in this hot climate, nor of the difficulty of ex- tinguishing it; but we determined, that if it siiould ever again be necessary for us to pitch our tents in such a situation, our first work should be to clear the ground round us. Friday, the 20th, our ship being ready for «ea, the master was sent in search of a pas- sage to the northward, but coiild nor find any ; while the Capt-iiiu sounded and buoy- «ii the bar. Thi)» day we saw not any In- dians ; but the hills for many miles were on fire, which at night made an appearance truly sublime. On the 22nd, we killed a turtle, through both shoulders of which stuck a wooden harpoon, near fifteen inches long, bearded at the end, and about tiie thickness of a man's finger, resembling such as we had seen among the natives. I'he turtle appeared to have been struck a con- siderable time,. for the wound was perfectly healed. On the 24th, one of the sailors, who with others had been sent to gather kale, having strayed from the rest, fell in with four Indians at dinner. He was at first much alarmed, but had prudence enough to conceal his apprehensions ; and sitting down by them gave them his knife, which having examined, they returned. He would then have left them ; but they seemed dis* Eosed to detain him, till, by feeling his ands and face, they were convinced he was made of flesh and blood like themselves. They treated him with great civility, and having kept him about half an hour, they made signs that he might depart. When he left them, not taking the direct way to the ship, they came from the fire, and shew- ed him the nearest way ; from whence we concluded, that they well knew from whence he came. We may here observe, that the language of these people seemed to us more harsh than that of^the islanders in the South- Sea. ITiey were continually repeating the word chercau, a term, as we imagined, of admiration. They also cried out, when they saw any thirtg new, cher, tut, tut, tut, tut! which probably was a similar expression. Mr. Banks having gone on shore in search of plants, found the cloth which had been distributed among the natives, lying in a heap, as useless I timber. Indeed they seem- ed to set very little value upon any thing we had, except our turtle, a commodity we were least inclined and able to siiare. Tuesday, the 24th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander returning from the woods, throuf;:it a deep valley, found lying on the ground, several marking nuts, the An.iraidiura ori- entale ; but they sought in vain for the tree that bore them. On the 26th. as Mr. Banks was again searching the country to enrich ■»'^^, AND ROUND THE WORLD. 101 s( \v«re on [)pearance i killed a of which een inches about tlie bliiig such ives. The ok a coii- s perfectly aifoi's, wh© ither kale, >11 in with as at tiist ice enough and sitting (life, which He would seemed dis* feeling his iced he was themselves, civility, and hour, they »art. When rect way to J, and shew- whence we from whence ve, that the . to us more n the South- epeating the imagined, of [t, when they :ut, tut, tut ! expression, jre in search !h had been ., lying in a 'd they seem- In any thing »mmodity we |si>are. iks and Dr. lods, through the ground, raidi'im ori- j for the tree [as Mr. Banks iry to en rid) hin natural history, he took an animal of the Opossum kind, with two young ones. On the 27th, Mr. Gore shot a Kanguroo, which weiglied eighty-four pounds, though not at its nill growth. When dressed, on the 28th, we found it had a much worse flavour than that we had eaten before. Sunday, the 29th, we got the anchor up, and made all ready to put to sea. A boat was sent out to ascertain what water was upon the bar: when returned, the officer reported, that there was only thirteen feet, vl^hich was six inches less than the ship drew. We therefore this day gave up all hopes of sailing. Monday, the 30th, we bad fresh gales with hai'V weather and rain, till Tuesday, the 31 st, at two in the morn- ing, when the weather became more moder- ate. During all this time the pinnace and yawl continued to ply the net and hook Ivith tolerable good success, bringing in at different times a turtle, ..nd from two to tkree hundred weight offish. .On Wednesday, the 1st of August, the gimps were examined by the carpenter, who una tlieui all in a state of decay, and some <|pite rotten, owin^, as he said, to the sap biiving been left in the wood : but as the libip admitted only an inch of water in an hour, we hoped she was stout enough, and trusted to her soundness. 'On Saturday, the 4th, at seven o'clock in the morning, we once more got under sail, and put to sea. We stood off E. by N. with the pinnace ahead to keep sounding. 'About noon we came to an anchor, when the har- bour from whence we had sailed bore S. 70 W. distant about five leagues. The Cap- tfiin here named the northernmost point of uid in sight. Cape Bedford, and tiie har- pur we had quitted. Endeavour River, fur latitude by observation was now 15 leg. 32 niin. S. Endeavour River is only f^siuaii bar harbour, or creek, which runs a winding channel three or four leagues dand. The deptii of water for shipping, is H: (Hore than a mile within the bar, and \\y on the n»»rth suio. At tiie new and ill (iJtite moon, it is hiuii-water betwet n In ' and tetj o'clock. It must also be re- jaibeied, that this part of the coast is so 5 barricaded with shouls, as to make the hai> hour very difficult of access :. the safest ap* proach is from the southward, keeping the main land close upon the board all the way. Over the south pomt is some high land, but the u^ 'th point is formed by a Iqw sandf beach. The provisions we procured in this harbour, consisted of turtle, oysters of differ* ent sorts, cavalhe or scumber, flat-fish, skate or ray fish, purslain, wild beans, and cal> bage-palms. Of quadrupeds, there are goats, wolves, pole-cats, a spotted animal of the viverra kind, and several kinds of serpents, some of which only are venomous. Dogs are the only tame animals. The land fowls are kites, crows, hawks, loriquets, cockatoos, parrots, pigeons, and smaii birds of various .sorts, the names of which we could not learn. The water fowls are wild geese, curlieus, hens, whistling ducks, that perch on trees, and some few others. The soil of the hills, though stony, produces coarse grass, be- sides wood ; that of the valleys is in general well clothed, and has the appearance of fertility. The trees here are of various sorts, of which the gum-trees are the most com- mon. On each side of the river are man- groves, which in some parts extend a mile within the coast. The country is well wa- tered, and ant-hills are every where in great numbers. On Saturday, the 4th, Capt. Cook went up to the mast-head to look'at some danger- ous shoals, several of which he saw above the water. This day such a (juantity of fish was caught, as allowed a dividend of two pounds to each man. During the six fol- lowing, days, we attempted to sail between the shoals and breakers, by which we were every way surrounded. On the 10th, we were between a hearl-land and three islands, which had been discovered the preceding day. We now entertained hopes of being out of danger , but this not proving to be the case, we called the head-land Cape Flat- tery. Some land was now discovered, and was generally taken for the main ; but in the Captain's opinion, a cluster of islands. Tificn this diversity of sentiments, it was n solved to l)ring ihe ship to aiM'h«)r. This done, the Captain lauded, and from a high 103 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS» point tnok h 9«rv«)f of the sea-coast, by uliirli he was* confirmed in his conjectnre. On the point wlieie he stood were seen the pri^its of human feet, in white sand of an exqni.^ite fineness ; and the \i\;u:e was naineint Lookout. ^I'o the northward of this, tile coast ap|jeared to be shoal and flat, for a considerable distance, which did not en- conraiieour \\o\ie, that the channel we had hitherto found in with the land would con- tinue. On Saturday, the 11th, earlv in the nion»- ing-, Mr. lianksand Capt. Cook went to visit the lari^est of the three islands, and having gained the summit of the hicrhest hill, they l^eheld a reef of rocks, whereon the sea broke in a frightful manner ; but the hazy weather preventing' a perfect view, thty lodged under a bush during' the ni^ht and next day seeintc what had the appearance of a channel between the reets, one of the mates, on the 12tli, was sent out in the pin- nace to examine it ; and at noon returned, hwvinjf found between filteen and twenty- eig^ht fathoms of water ; but it blew so hard, that the mate did not dare to venture into one of the channels, which he said ap|)eared to be very narrow ; but the Captain jud!»ed he had seen them to a disadvantage. While busy in his survey, Mr. Banks was attentive to his favourite pursuit, and collected many plants he had not before .seen. This island, visible at twelve leagues distance, and in f general barren, we found to be about eight eagues in circumierence. There are some «andy bays and low land on the N. W. .side, which is covered with long grass, and trees of the .same kind with those on the main ; lizards of a very large size also abounded, some of which we took. We found also fresh water in two places ; one running stream, close to the sea, was a little brack- ish ; the other was a .stand'ug pool, perfectly sweet. We were surpriset to see, that, not- withstanding the distance jf this island from the main, it was sonie^'ines vi.sited by the fndians from thence ; as was plain from seven or eight frames of their huts which we ^ound. All the.se were built on eminencies, And from their situation, we judged, that the weather iiere, at certain seasons, is inva- 6 riably calm and mild. On our return to the ship, the Captain named thi« place tlig Lizard Island, on account of our having seen no other animals but lizards. When returning, we landetl on a low sandy island, upon whicli were birds of various kinds, We took a nest of young eagles, and thert^ fore called the place Eagle Lsland. Wc found also a nest of some other bird, of a most enorm^'us size : it was made with sticks upon the ground, and was not les.s than twenty- six feet in circumtierence, and two feet eight inches high. We perceived thai this jilace had also been visited by the hh dians. During our absence from the shi|), the master had landed on several low islands, where he had seen great heaps of turtle- shells, and found the fins of them, which the Indians had left hanging on the trees, so fresh, that they were dressed and eaten by the l)oat's crew. On Sunday, the 12th, the officers held i consultation, and we were unanimous in opinion, that it would be best to quit tiie coast altogether, till we could approach it with le.ss danger ; in con.seqnence of which c«mcnrrent oninion. we sailed on Monday, the 1.3th. ana got through one of the chan- nels in the reef, happy at finding oursselvej once more in the open sea, after having been surrounded by dreadful .shoals and rocks for near three months. We had now saild above 1000 miles, during which run we Imd been obliged to keep sounding, without tin intermission of a single minute ; a circniii. stance which, it is supposed, never happened to any ship but the Endeavour. The pas- sage through which we passed into tlie opn sea beyond the reef, is in latitude 14 dej, 32 min. S. and may always be kmtwn by the three high islands within it, which Capt, Cook called the Islands of Direction, because by these a stranger may find & safe chai nel through the reef qnite to the main. Tne channel lies from Lizard Island N. E. hall' N. distant three leagues, and is about one third of a mile broad, and much the same in length. The islands abound in turtle and other fish, and on the beach . we found bamboos, cocoa nuts, pumice-stone, and the seeds of plants, supposed to be wafted tliitlur m AND ROUND THK WORLD. im r return U is place tlie our haviitt; rds. When mdy island, rious kiiuls. , and tliei> slaud. \y< r bird, ot a e with sticki ot less than re, and two erceived that j by the lii- •om tlie ship, d low islands, aps of turtle. them, which on the trees, ed and eaten officers held I unanimous in li e of Wales's ook iina&;iiie) these isiaii(l) ss, and woif he smoke tiiat laces. liled throiigli, of Endeavoiii >s is a mucli herto known, , being lai^er >roved by. the ore than 2000 reduct'd to a e latitude of 33 not mountain' ' that latitude, nd. The hills )y . lawns and s abound witli le, it cannot bt To the nortli nor the trees rts, and almosi trees ((row at thirteen yards where the laiiil red with man lie in land, ini spring tides al there are bogs, 1 plenty of im- soil in general ough there ars tillage luiglil There aw in many di- y, where then r, but there art extent ; yetii 5 the time wliet s reckoned tlii The guin-tret dragons hid mloy, thousands were joined to keep the leaf in its proper situa- tion, which, when they were disturbed in their work, flew back with a force that any one would have imagined to be superior to their united strength ; at the same time they avenged themselves by severely stinging their disturbers. The second species of ants here are black, and live in the inside of the branches, after they have worked out tlie pith. The third sort lodged themselves in the root of a plant that twines round the trunk» of other trees. This tljrey made hollow, ami cut into a great number of passages that ran across each other, yet there \\as no appear- ance of the plants having been injined. They are n'ot above half tlie size of tlie red ants of this country. As to the fourth sort they are like the East-Indian white ants, and h'ad one sort of nests as big as a Indf- peck loaf, which hung from the boughs of trees, and were composed of several minute parts of vegetables, which appeared to be stuck together by the glutinous juice before- mentioned. There was a communication between the cells, and passages to other nests upon the same tree ; they had also a hollow covered lassage to another nest on the ground, at t le root of a ditterent tree. The height of t le ground-nests was found to be of about six feet, and the bieadth nearly the same : and the outside was plais- tered with clay almost two inches tiiick. These had a sul)terraneous passage leading to the roots of the trees near which they were constructed, from whence these crea- tures ascended the trunk and brauches by covered ways, calculated for the purpose. It was concluded, that the ants resorted to these ground-nests during the wet season, as they were water |)roof. Variety offish is supplied by the seas in these parts, amonif w Inch are mullets, cray- fish and crabs. Unon the shoals are fnniid the rock, pearl, and other oysters, as well as the most delicate green turtle, besides those enormous cockles which have been already mentioned. Alligators are found in the ri- vers and sal to creeks. The country does not 1 iiini ,H ^\ !''■!■: lOiJ VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, appear to be inhabited by miinbers any way proportioned to its great extent ; not above thirty being ever seen together but once, which was when those of both sexes and all ages «ot together on a rock o served with the leaves of a tree in their mouths, but whether it had the qualities of either tobacco or beetle could not be known ; but it was observed not to discolour the teeth or lins. From . tne notches that were seen in a great number of trees, for the purpose of climbing them, it was imagined that their method of taking the kanguroo, was by striking it with their lances as it passed un- der the tree. In these likewise, it is proba- ble, that they took birds, while they were roosting, as they seemed too shy to be AND ROUND THE WORLD. 107 ovor+^d ^vilh . The door igh enough ; tiie-places. rned up to. this postupe n four peo- re the >vea- houses was d to what- tiine there : ary use, and ed to other lir stay was ad no other in what the lile the huts id from the towards it : he islands in shing breezft ire furnished ^hmg water, k tied up at ?\nd this is e. On their , of the size which they of the shells s ; the orna- some points paint; and their riches, and several :atch them ; mous kinds icle of their jquently ol> ree in their qualities of : be known ; scolour the seen in a purpose of that thfir oo, was by t passed un- it is proba- they were shy to be othenvise catched. Their method of pro- ducing lire, and extending the tlauies ol n, i^; very siuiiular : havini? wrought one end ofa stick into an obtuse jfcint, they place this point upon a piece of lant not unlike a bulrush, and coni^ists, of several joi'its let int(» each other, and tied together. The points of these lances are s<»metinies made of fish-bone, and souictinies of a hard heavy wood ; they are barbed with other pieces of wood or stone, so that when they have entered any dejMh in the body, they cannot be drawn out without tearing the flesh in a shocking niainier, or leaving splinters behind them. When the natives intend to wound at a considerable distance, they discharge this instrument with a throw- ing stick, but if the object be near them, it IS thrown from the hand only. The throw- mg stick is u piece of smooth, hard, red wood, half an inch Jhick. two inches l;r.!;'.i', and about thrfe leet in leiigih, haviii- ;i ruvs piece near lour inrhes loiig iit one < inl. ; !:(J a small knob at the other. A small holnivy is made in the shaft of the hiiwe, i.tar the point, and in this hollow the knob is lere v- eii, but, on being forced forward, il w ill tjisly slip from it. 'J'he lance being jiluced on lliis throwing stick, the Indian hohis it ov.r his shoulder, shakes it,* and tJ;en throws hoth lance and stick with his utmost pow( ; l)ut as the cross-piece strikes the shouhitr tiie sudden jerk stops the stick, while liie lunce is driven forward with amazing r;)j)it!i^y, and is generally so well aimed, that a ii!;!rk at the distance of fifty yards is more cer- tainly struck with it than by a bullet from a gun. These people make use of shit.hls made of the bark of trees, of about eiglittcn inches broad, and three feet long. Mnny trees were seen from whence the bark liad been taken, and others on uhich the shieltis were cut out but not taken away. In the northern parts of this country, the canoes are formed by hollowing the trunk of a tree, and it was conjectured, that this ojieiation must have been performed by fire, as the natives did not appear to have any instru- ments proper for the purpose. Tlie canoes are in length about fouiteen feet, and so narrow, that they would be frequently over- set, but that they are provided with an out- rigger. The natives row them with jiadtiles, using both hands in that employment. Tlie canoes in the southern parts are formed ely right, and draw very little water, the Indians run them on the'mud banks in search of shell-fish, some of which, it is probable, they broil and eat as soon as they are taken, as it was remarked that in the centre of the^e vessels there was usually a fire burning on a (|uantity of sea-weed. The natives have no tools but a wooden mallet ^sr 'i r 'm 108 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA», New Holland. Melea, oore, ,1 kind of wedge, and an adze, made of stone« wiUi sonie pieces of coral and shells, which uiay possibly be applied to the purposes of Mingoo cuttin'*". They polish the points of their Mocoo, iaiicesT and their throw mft-sticks, with the Morcol, leavesof a tree that appears to be ihe wild Moree, ti<'-, whicii bites witi a sharpness, almost Mootjel, equal to that of a rasp. Four people are JVb-'ere, tiie «'ieatest number that a canoe will con- Nnfeil, tain T and when more than this number were Peegoorg«, to pass a river, three were landed out of the Peete, first iieight, and one man went back for the Poapoa, Pongo, Poona Poorai, Poteea, Putai, Tabugga, Taoal, Te, Tennapuke, rest. The following may serve as a specnnen of their language. English.. The Ariiii. 2'o yawn. A man. The nose. To eat. To drink. A dog. The breast. The neck. A fat her. The thumbs. Thejeel. The croun of the head. That or this. The sun. The eye-brows. The belly. The sky. The nails. To swim. Fire. Togo. The hands. The eyes. 4 New Holland. Aco, Aibudje, lianima, lionjoo, ItooUi, Chucitia, Cotta, Coyor, l>oomboo, Dunjo, Jlboorbalga, Edanial, Eiyarnoae, Eya & ba, (I'alan, (iarbar, (I'ippa, Kere, Kcike, IVJiiilelel. JMaianang, Ma^ra, Aiangal, I^Ieuf, Tocaya, Tumurre, Unjar, Wageegee, Wafloo, Waller, Walboolbool, Wonananio, Wulgar, \embe, Zoocoo, English. 2 he ears,^ To daiice. The back. The throat. 21ie hair of the heeul.^ A woman. The teeth. The little finger. The legs. The forehead. Earth. The knees.^ To sleeps Water. Fish. A turtle. Arty. The chin. A, or the. The hole made in the nostrils for the bon« ornament. Sit down. , , A son., The tongue. The head. The temples. The beard. A butterfly. Asleep. The clouds. The lips. Wood. Though it appeared evident, that the ria- tiv?s of these island'; waged war with each other, by the weapons they possesseti, yet not a wound received i'roni their enemies appeared on any part of tht bodies- or he htetd.^ iger. I, nadc in Ihe or the bona it. e. es. lat the iia. with each ssesseil, yet iv enemies dies- CHAP. X The Endeavour conttnuet her voyage from South Wales to New Guinea; An aecouni of incident* • upon landing there; She proceeds from New Guinea to the island of Savu; Transactions at this ■ isle; Its produce and inhabitants, with a specimen of their language ; Run from Sa^n to Batav>: f Transactions while the Endeavour was refitting at this place. ON the 23rd, of August, 1770, in the after- noon, after leaving Booby Island, we had light airs till five o'clock, when it fell ^ttlm, and we came to an anchor in eight fa- thoms water, with a soft sandv bottom. On Friday, the 24th, soon after the anchor was Weighed, we got under sail, steering N. VV. j|^ii in a few hours one of the boats a-head niade the signal for shoal-water. We in- stantly brought the ship to, vvith all her sails stending, and a survey being taken of the i^ around her, it was found that she had ^et with another narrow escape, as she was i^ost encompassed with shoals, and was likewise so situated between them, that she itoist have struck before the boat's crew had Hpide the signal, if she had been half the ll^gth of a cable on either side. In the af- noOn we made sail with the ebb title, and out of danger before sun-set, when we ilfought to for the night. (On Sunday, the 2fith, it was the Captain's idtention to steer N. VV. but having met with those shoals, we altered our course, and soon got into deep water. On the 27th, we pursued our voyage, shortening sail at night, and tacking till day-break of the 38th, when we steered due N. in search of Kew Guinea. At this time our latitude by l^servation was 8 deg. 52 min. S. We here "wtrved many parts of the sea covered with kind of brown scum, to wliich our sailors ve the name of spawn. It is formed of an iredible number of minute particles, each which, when seen through a microscope, s found to consist of a considerable num- r of tubes, and these tubes were subdi- ed into little cells. The scum being rnt, and yielding no smell like what is luced by animal substances, we ronclud- it was of the vegetable kind. This has in been seen on the coast of Brazil, and erally makes its appearance near the h land. A bird called the Noddy was found this evening among the rigging of the ship. Land having been this day discovered front the mast head, we stood off and on all night, and at day-break we sailed towards it with a brisk gale. Between six and se- ven in the morning we had sight of a small low island, at about a league from the main, in latitude 80 deg. 13 min. S. and in longi- tude 224 deg. 25 min. W. and it has already been distinguished by the names of Bartho- lomew and Whermoysen. It appeared a very level i.sland, clothed with trees, among which is the cocoa-nut; and we judged it to be inhabited, by the smoke of the fires which were seen in different parts of it. The boats were now sent out to sound, as the wa- ter was shallow; but as the ship, in sailing (wo leagues, had found no increase in its depth, signals were made for the boats to return on board. We then stood out to sea till mid-night, tacked, and stood in for land till the morning. On Thursday, the 30th, when about four leagues distant, we had sight of it, and its appearance was still flat and woody. Abun» dance of the brown rcum was still seen on the surface of the sea, and the sailors, con- vinced that it was not spawn, gave it the whimsical name of sea-saw-dust. We now held a northward course, scarcely within sight of land, and as the water was but just deep enough to navigate the vessel, many unsuccessful attempts were mad^ to brings her near enough to get on shore : it was therefore determined to land in one of the boat.^, while the ship kept plying off and on. In consequence of this resolution, On Monday, Sept. the 3rd, Capt. CooU, Mr Banks, and Dr. Solumler, attended by the boat's trew, and Mr. Banks's servant, set off from the ship in the pinnace, being in all twelve persons well aruied. We rowed 110 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ;:'»^ '! ""i3 !M^ rliiectly totlie slir.rc, but when come within two Iminhed yards of it, we found the water so shallow, that we were obhired to leave the boat, in the care of two of ^he sailors, «nd wade to land. We had no sooner reached the shore, than we saw several prints of hnniiin feet on tlie sand, below hi;j:h wa- ter mark, from whence it was evident, that the natives had been there. We conohideil they could be at no jjreat distance, an^m ik even the liinj ir coast, Moiilt to defend tlif'i property had \t been mvaded : consequently many must have fallen a sacrifice on their side, and perhaps some of our own people. •* I should (says Capt. Cook) have regretted rtie necessity of such a measure, if I had ijcenin want of the necessaries of life ; and certainly it would have been highly crimi- nal when nothing was to be obtamed but iyvo or three hundred green cocoa-nuts; which would at most have j)rocured us a mere transient gratification. 1 might indeed liave proceeded farther along the coast to 5ie northward, or westward in search of a place where the ship might have lain so iiear the shore, as to cover the people with jer guns when they lauded ; but this vvould lave obviated only part of the mischief, and tjiongh it might have seemed us, it would probably in the very act have been fatal to the natives. Besides, we had reason to mink that before such a place could have fiieen found, we should have been carried so (fa to the westward as to have been obliged to go to Batavia, on the north side of Java, through the straits of Sunday: the ship tso was so very leaky, that I doubted wlie- er it would not be necessary to heiive her down at Batavia, which was another reason Vfff making the best of our way to that p|ace, es[)ecially as no discoveries could be <5^pecled in seas which had already been navigated, and where every coast had been l^id down by the Dutch geographers." j On Saturday, tiie 8th, we {)assedtwo small Inlands, on one of which Capt. Cook would have landed, but having only ten fathoms water, the ground being also rocky, and the ^j'iiul blowing fresh, we might have endan- ited the safety of the ship. We now sail- I at a moderate rate till next morning at |ree o'clock ; after which we had no ground ith 120 fathoms. Before noon we had >ht of land, which was conjectured to be cHher the Arrou Islands, or Timor Laoet. We were now in latitude 9 deg. 37 min. S. ||d in longitude 233 deg. 54 min. W. We sfeDod off and on during the niurht, and on Wednesday, the 12th, we saw a number of tes and smoke in several places, from lence it was conjectured that the place IS weW peojded. The land near the shore was covered with high trees, not unlike pines ; farther back were cocoa-trees and mangroves ; there were many salt-water creeks, and several spots of ground which appeared to have been cleared by art ; and the whole country rose, by gradual slopes, into hills of a very considerable height. The land and sea breezes being now very slight, we continued in sight of the island for two days, when it was observed thai the hills reached in many places quite to the sea-coast, and where that was tlie case, there were large and noble groves of the cocoa- nut tree, which ran about a mile up the country, at which distance great numbers of houses and plantations were seen ; the plantations were surrounded with fences, and extended nearly to the sunnnits of tlie most lofty hills, yet neither the natives" nor cattle were seen on any of them, which was thought a very extraordinary circumstance. Fine groves of the fan-palm shaded the hou- ses from the rays of the sun. On the 16th, we had sight of the little island called Rotte ; and the same day saw the island Semau, at a distance to the south- ward of Timor. The island of Rotte i« chiefly covered with bnsliy wood without leaves ; but there are a number of fan-palm trees on it, growing near the sandy beaches ; and the whole consists of alternate hills and valleys. The island of Semau is not so hilly as Timor, but resembles it greatly in other respects. At ten o'clock this night a dull reddish light was seen in the air, many parts of which emitted rays of a brighter colo«r, which soon vanished and were succeeded by others of the same kind. This phaenome-* non. which reached about ten decrees above the horizon, bore a considerable resem-» blance to the Aurora Borealis, only that the rays of light which it emitted had no tre- mulous motion : it was surveyed for two hours, during which time its brightness con- tinued undiminished. As the ship was now clear of all the islands which had been laid down in such maps as were on board, we made sail during the night, and were sur- prised the next morning at the sight of an isldnd to the W. S. W. which we flattered ourselves was a new discovery. Before noo'j IP 112 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, we had sight of houses, groves of cocoa-nut trees, and large flocks of sheep. This was a welcome sight to peoj>le whose health was declining" for want of refreshment, and it was instantly resolved to attempt the purchase of what we stood so much in need of The second lieutenant was immediately dispatch- ed in th« pinnace, in search of a landing- place ; and he took with him such things as it was thought might be acceptable to the natives, louring: Mr. Gore's absence, the people on board saw two men on horseback npon the hills, who frequently stopped to take a view of the vessel. The lieutenant soon returned with an account that he had entered a little cove, near which stood a i'ew houses ; that several men advanced and in- vited liim to land ; and that they conversed together as well as they could by signs. He reported that these people were very like the Molays, both in person and dress ; and said they had no other arms but a knife, which each of them wore in his girdle. The lieutenant not being able to find any place in which the ship might come to an- chor, he was dispatched again with money and goods to buy such necessaries as were immediately wanted for the sick. Dr. So- lander attende(] the lientenfnt, and during their absence, the ship stood on and ort'the shore. Soon after the boat had put off, two other horsemen were seen from tlie ship, one of whom had a laced hat oh, and was dressed in a coat a»ul waistcoat of the fashion of Europe. Tliesc men rode about on shore taking little notice oi' the boat, but regard- ing the ship with the utmost atteniion. As soon as the br)at reached the shore, some other persons on horseback, and many on foot hastened to the spot, and it was ol)serv- cd that some cocoa-nuts were put into tlie boat, from whence it was conchided, that a traflic had commenced with the natives. A signal beiuff miide from the boat that the ihi|> miglu :,iichor in a bay at some dis- cance, she immediately bore away for it. "When the lieutenant came on board, he re- ported, that he co\\U\ not purchase any co- coa-nuts, as (he owner of them was absent, and that what he had binjught were given 8 him, in return for which he had pressed fh« natives with some linen. The method by which he learned that there was a harbour in the neighbourhood, was by the natives drawing a kind of rude map on the sand, in which the harbour, and a town near it, was represented ; it was likewise hinted to him, that fruit, fowls, hogs, and sheep might be there obtained in great abundance. He saw several of the principal inhabitants of tlie island, who had chains of gold about tlieir necks, and wore fine linen. The word Poi, tuguese being fretiuently repeated by llie Indians, it was conjectured that some native* of Portugal were in the island, and one of the boat's crew being of that kingdom, lie spoke to the islanders in his own langnagr but soon found that they had only learned a few words, of which they did not know llie meaning. While the natives were endea vouring to represent the .situation ol the town near the harbour, one of iliein, in order to be more particular in direc- tions, informed the English that tliev would see .something which he endeavoiueil to describe by placing his fingers across eacli other; and the Portuguese sailor took it k granted, that he could mean nothing but a cross. When the boat's crew were on llit jmint of returning to the ship, the genlle man, who had l)een seen on horseback intlif drefis of Europe, came down to the beadi but the lieutenant did not think it properlt hoUl a conference with him, because he haii left his commission on board the ship. When the ship liad entered the bay, it the evenini:', according to the directions r? ceived, an Indian town was seen at aili* tance ; upon which a jack was hoisted wi the fore-tojvnia«t head, prescinly afterwan!' three gnus were lired, and Dutch ciddiin were hoisted in the town ; the shi[), howevi: held on hei- way, and came to an anclior; seven in the evening. The colours Ik:;;. seen hoisted on the bead) the ne\t morniL the Captain concluded, that the Diitc li 1:;, a settlement on the island, he theretniodh patched the second lieutenant to a('(|iiiiii;: the governor, or other principal r«;sidtii! who they were„ and that the ship had pu; ^mjt vvj AND ROUND THE VTORLD. lid > had pressed lli« The method by re was a harbour s by the natives i|) on the sand, in town near it, was ise hinted to him, 1 sheep miffht lie iiidance. He saw n habitants of the " goUl about tlieir I. The word l\n. repeated by llie 1 that some native* island, and one (( that kingdom, lie his own langnaof had only learned a r did not know llit itives were endea the situation ol our, one of them, irticnlar in diitc- ,nglish that tliey icii he endeavouieil lingers across eaeli se sailor took it tot lean nothing but a crew were on tlit .e ship, the geullt on horseback intlif own to the beacli )t think it proper t( iim, because he liad )ard the ship, iitered the bay, it o the directions re was seen at a(li> rk was h()isted mi iresent'iy afterward* and Diilch coltmi^ ; the ship, howevi: me to an antiioi ;; The colours Ini.i; •h tlie next moniii. that the l>nt< h li- he theretnio (ii^ itenant to a('(ii!aii: principal r«;si(Kiii the ship had pu; i< in for necessary refreshments. The lieuten- ant having landed, he was received by a kind of guard of something more than twenty Indians, armed with muskets, who after they had taken down tlieir colours from the beach, proceeded without the least military order: and thus escorted him to the town, where the colours had been hoist- ed the preceding evening. The lieutenant was now conducted to the Rfga, or king of the island, to whom, by means of a Portu- .guese interpreter, he made known his busi- ,ness. The Raja said, he was ready to sni>- {>ly the ship with the necessary refreshments, Hit that he could not trade with any other people than the Dutch, with whom lie was in alliance, without having first obtained their consent; he added, however, that he • would make apitlication to the Dutch agent, who was the onl v white man among tnem. To this agent, whose name wa.s Lange, and who proved to be the person that was seen .from the ship in the European dress, a letter was dispatched, and in a few hours he came ,to the town, behaved politely to the lieuten- '.ant, and told him he might buy what he , thought proper of the inhabitants of the , island. This ofTer being freely made, and ' .readily accepted, the Raja and Mr. Lange **intimated their wishes to go on board the f ship, and that two of the boat's crew might ,he left as hostages for their safe return. .The lieutenant gratified 'them in both these requests, and took them on board just before . dinner was served. It was thought that they would have sat down without ceremony ; but now the Raja intimated his doubts, whether being a black, they would permit him to sit dqwn with them. The politeness of the officers soon removed his scruples, and the greatest good humour and festivity pre- vailed among them. As Dr. Solander and another gentleman on board, were tolerable proficients in Dutch, they acted as interpre- ters between Mr. Lange and the officers, while some of the sailors, who understood Portuguese, conversed with such of the Raja's attendants as spoke that language. Our dinner consisted chiefly of mutton, ; which when the Raja had tasted, he re- quested of us an English sheep, and the only one we had lefl was presented to him. Our compliance in this particular, encou- raged the king to ask for an English dog, and Mr. Banks politely gave him his grey- hound. A spying glass was also put, into his hand, Mr. Johan Christopher Lange having intimated, that such a present would be very acceptalde. Our visitors now in- formed us, that the island abounded with burtaloes, sheep, hogs, and fowls, plenty of which should ^e driven down to the shore the next day. This put us all in high spi- rits, and the liquor circulated rather faster than either the Indians or the Saxon could bear ; but they had, however, the resolution to express a desire to depart, before they were quite intoxicated. When they came upon deck, they were received in the same manner as when they came aboard, by the marines under arms ; and the R^ja express- ing a desire to see them exercise, his curio* sity was gratified. They fired three rounds. The king observed them with ^reat atten- tion, and appeared much surprized at the regularity andexpedition of their manceuvres. When they cocked their firelocks, he struck the side oi the ship with his stick, exclaim- ing at the same time violently, " that all the locks made but one click." They were dis- missed with many presents, and on their departure were saluted with nine guns. Mr. Banks with Dr. Solander accompanied them, and when they put off returned our compliments with three cheers. Our gen- tlemen on their arrival at the town, tasted their palm-wine, which was the fresh juice ©rthe trees, unfermented. It had a sweet, but not disagreeable taste, and hopes were entertained, that it might contribute to re- cover our sick from the scurvy. The houses of the natives consisted of only a thatched roof, supported over a boarded floor, by pil- lars about four feet high. Wednesday, the 19th, in the morning, Capt. Cook, attended by several gentlemen, went on shore to return the Raja's visit; but their principal intention was to purchase the cattle and fowls, which they had been assured the preceding day should be driven down to the beach. We -were greatly chag- rined at finding no steps had been taken fa 114 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ^.; .mi fulfil tliis promise : however, we pr'yrseded to the Iiouse of assembly, which, with a few other houses, built by the Dutch East India Company, are distinguished from the rest, l>y having two pieces of wood, resembling a pair of cows' horns, fixed at each end of the roof; and these we concluded to be what the Portuguese sailor construed into crosses, from the Indian having crossed his fingers when he was describing the town. At the house of assembly we saw Mr. Lange and the Raja, whose name was A Madocho Lomi lijara, surrounded by many of tlie principal people; Capt. Cook having in- formed them, that he had loaded his boat with goods, which he wished to exchange for necessary refreshments, permission was given him to land them. We now endea- voured to make an agreement fdr the hogs, sheep, and buffaloes, which were to be paid for in cash ; but this business was no sooner hinted than Mr. Lange took his leave, hav- ing' first told the Captain, that he had re- ceived a letter from tne governor of Concor- dia, in Timor, the contents of which should be disclosed at his return. As the morning was now far advanced, and we had no fresh provisions on board, we reo nested the Raja's permission to buy a small hog and some rice, and to order his people to dress the dinner for us. He very obligingly replied, that if we could eat victuals dressed by his subjects, which he could scarcely suppose, he would do himself the honour of enter- taining us. A dinner being thus procured, ♦he Captain sent off his boat to bring li- quors^ from the ship. It was ready about five o'clock, and after we were seated on mats, which were spread on the floor, it was served in six and thirty baskets. We were then conducted by turns to a hole in the floor, near which stood a man with water in a vessel, made of the leaves of the fan-palm., who assisted us in washing our hands. This done we returned to our places and expect- ed the king. Having waited some time, we inquired the reason of his absence, and were informed that the person who gave the en- tertainment never partook of" it with his guests; but that the Raja was ready to come and taste of what was provided, if we enter- 2 tained a thought that the victuals were poi* soned. We declared that we did not har. bour any such suspicion, and desired that the custom of the country might not be violated on our account. When dinner was ended, the wine passed briskly, and we invited the Raja to drink with us, thinkir.gif he would not eat with us, he might at (east share in the jollity of the bottle ; but he again excused himself, saving, the man who entertained his guests shouid never get drunk with them, and that the surest way to avoid this was to refrain from tastingthe liquor. The prime mi. nister and Mr. Lange were of our party, and we made a most luxurious meal. The pork and rice weie excellent, and the broth not to be despised ; but the spoons, made of leaves, were so small, that few of us hadipa. tience to use them. We did not drink our wine at the place where we had dined ; and the remains of the dinner we left to the seamen and servants, who immediately took our places. They could not dispatch all we had left ; blit the Raja's female servants, who came to take away the utensils, obliged them to carry away what they had not eaten. When we thought the wine had so far ope- rated as to open the heart, we took an op. portunity to inquire after the buffaloes and sheep, of which we had not in all this time heard a syllable, though they were to have been at the beach ear^ in the morning. Mr. Lange, the Saxon Dutchman, now be. gan to communicate to us the contents of the letter, which he pretended to have re- ceived from the governor of Concordia, and wherein he said, instructions were given, that if the ship should touch at this island, and be in want of provisions, she should be supplied ; but he was not to permit her to remain longer than was necessary : nor were any large presents to be made to the natives of low rank, nor to be even left with their superiors to be divided among them afttr the ship had sailed ; but he added, any tilt- ling civilities received from th«» Indians might be acknowledged by a present o\ beads, or other articles of very small value. It is probable that the whole of this story was a fiction ; and that by precluding out liberality to the natives, the Saxon Dutchman ■-f ANJ) IIOFND THE WORLD. lid Is were poi. lid not nar< ired tliat the t be violated was ended, e invited the f if he would t share in the ^ain excused itertained his . with them, d this was to rhe prime mi. ur party, and 1. The pork he broth not ons, made o{ of us hadipa< ot drink our d dined ; and ve left to the lediately took ispatch all we nale servants, ensils, obliged lad not eaten, ad so far ope- took an op. buffaloes and all this tiin« were to have the morning. man, now be- le contents ol to have re- !oncordia, and were given, at this island, she should be permit her to ary : nor were to the natives eft with their ig them afttr dded, any trit- th«^ Indians a present ol ' small value. ! of this story recluding onK lonDutchmshl i J liem. Some fowls however were uougni, a large quantity of a kind of syrup made le juice of the palm-tree. This, though litelv superior to molasses or treacle, hoped more easily to draw all the presents of any value into his own pocket. In the even in? we were informed, that only a few sheep '>ad been brought to th< beach, which had been dri^ren away before our people could procure money from the ship to pay for them. Some fowls however were bought, and of the infinitely super ,r i i sold at a very low price. Vexed at beuig thus disappointed in purchasing the chief articles most wanted, we remonstrated with Mr. Lange,aWho now found another subter- fuge, lie said, had we gone down to the beach ourselves, we might have purchased what we pleased ; but that the natives were afraid of being imposed on by our seamen with counterfeit money. We could not but feel some indignation against a man who had concealed this, being true ; or alledged it, being false ; and Capt. Cook repaired im- mediately to the .beach, but no cattle were to be seen, nor were any at hand to be bought. During his absence, Lange told Mr. Banks, that the Indians were offended at our not having offered them gold for what We had to sell, and without wliich nothing could be bought. Mr. Banks did not think it worth his while to hold farther conversa- tion with a man who had been guilty of such repeated falsities ; but rose up suddenly, and we all returned on board much dissa- tisfied with our fruitless negociations. The Raja had indeed given a more plausible reason for our disappointment : he said, the buffaloes being far up in the coivntry, there had not been time to bring them down to the beach. On Thursday, the 20th, Dr. Solander went again ashore with Capt. Cook, and while the former went up to the town to speak to Lange, the captain remained on the beach with a view of purchasing provisions. Here he met with the old Indian, who, as he ap- peared to have some authority, we had among ourselves distinguished by the name of the Prime Minister. In order to engage this man in our interest, the captain pre- ' sented him with a spying-gla«s ; but only a small buffalo was offered to be sold. The price was five guineas, nearly twice its real value. Three, nowever, were offered, w Inch the dealer thought a good price ; but said, he must acquaint the king with what had been bid before he could strike the bargain. A messenger was immediately dispatched to the Raja, and on his return brought word, that not less than five guineas would be ta> ken for the buffalo. The captain absolutely refused to give the sum demanded, which occasioned the sending away a second mes- senger, and during his absence, Dr. So.lan- was seen coming from the town, followed by above a hundred men, some of whom were armed with mu.skefs, and others witli lan- ces. Upon inquiring into the meaning oj this hostile appearance, the doctor informed us, the purport of a message from the king was, as according to Mr. Lange's interpreta- tion, that the people would not trade with us because we had refused to give them more than half the value for their c*»mmodities ; and that we were not to expect permission to trade upon any terms longer than this day. A native of Timor, whose parents were Portuguese, came down with this party, and delivered to the captain what was pretended to be the order of the Raja, and which was in substance the same that Lange had told Dr. Solander; but it was afterwards disco- vered that this man was a confident of Lange's in the .scheme of extortion. The English gentlemen had at the same time no doubt but that the supposed order of the Raja was a contrivance of these men, and while they were debating how to act in this critical conjuncture, anxious to bring the affair to a speedy issue, the Portuguese be- gan to drive away .such of the natives as had brought palm-syrup and fowls to sell, and others who were now bringing sheep and buffaloes to the market. At this junc- ture C^apt. Cook happening to look at the old man who had been distinguished by the name of prime minister, imagined that he saw in his features a disapprobation of tlie present proceedings ; and, willing to im- prove the advantage, he grasped the Indian's hand, and gave him an old Inroad-sword. This well-timed present produced all the good effects that could be wished ; tho M6 VOYAGE 1 THE SOUTH SEAS. 'i« f •kit: prime minister was enraptured at so honour- able a mark of distinction, and brandishing his sword over the head of the impertinent Portuguese, .le made both him anil a man who commanded the party, sit down behind him on the e'>'n>i"er: the natives ride them with a halter only. The hog's of this country are fed on the husks ot rice and palm-svrup mixed with water, and are remarkaoly fine and fat. The sheep i*^ not unlike a goat, and are therefore called Cabaiitos; their ears, which are long, hang down under their horns, their noses are arched, and their bodies co- vered with hair. The fowls are of the game kind, and though they are rather large, the hen lays a very small egg. The sea coast furnishes the inhabitants with turtle, but not in any great abundance. The people of this ysl'dud are rather belo^* AND ROU?n> THE WORLD. 117 1 in Octo- »s produce ntt maize, rees in the the island tamarinds, corn, rice, A small biid some lie, fennel, ^hich, there particularly aste, and i$ en raw ; its is nearly as oval form, a very light er of seeds Several buf« which were from a pair imal, which \ that some they did not as an ox oi greater part Iry weather: id of a deli- ese animals ew-laps, and nd their ear* other tame 5, cats, pige. , asses, and ibove twelve f mettle, and ms manlier: Ihalter only, fed on the Imixed with ine and fat. lat, and are ears, which their horns; Ir bodies co- of the game ler large, the lie sea coast li turtle, but i-atlier belo>» the middle stature-, their hair m black and ltraight,andpersonsof aUraHks,a» well those that are exposed to the weather, as thosa that are not, have one general complexion, which is the dark brown. The men are well formed and sprightly, and their features ditfer much from each other : the women, OD the contrary, have all one set of features, are very sliort, and broad built. The men have silver pincers hanging by strings round their necks, with which they pluck out the hair of their beards; and both men and women root out the hair that grows under their arms ; the hair of the women's heads is tied in a club behind, while the men wear a kind of turban on their heads, formed of piusliti, cotton, or even with silk handker- iphiets, but the heads of the women have no covering. The dress of the men consists of two pieces of cotton cloth, one of which is bound round the middle, and the lower edge ©fit being drawn pretty tight between the legs, the upper edge is left loose, so as to /brm a kind of pocket, in which they carry knives and other things: the other piece being fiast under the former on the back of tiie wearer, the ends of it are carried over the shoulders, and tucked into the pocket before. X'he women drew the npi)er edge of the pjece round the waist tight, while the lower etige dropping to the knees, make a kind of petticoat: the other piece of cloth is fasten- ed across the breast, and nnder the arms. This cloth, which is manufactured by the natives, is dyed blue while in the yarn ; and as it is of various shades, its look, when it comes to be worn, is very beautiful. Their ornaments are very numerous, and ;#otisist of rings, beads worn round the neck |nd on the wrists, and chains of plaited (old wire, are likewise worn by both sexes ; kut the women hadiikewise girdles of beads Siind their waists, which served to keep up leir petticoats. Both sexes had their ears i>red without a single exception, that we »w, but we never observed an ornament in ly of them. Nor did we perceive either kan or woman in any thing but what ap- feared to be their ordinary dress, except the In?,' and his minister, who in general wore [kind of night-gown of coarse chintz, and the latter once received ns in a black robe« which appeared to be made of prince's stuff. One person, in the way of finery, had asij- ver-headed cane, marked with a kind of cypher, consisting of the Roman letters V. O. C which might have been a present from the Dutch East India Company, whose mark it is. We also saw boys about twelve or fourteen years old, having spiral circle* of thick brass wire ])assed three or four limes round their arms, above the elbow: and upon the same part of the arm, some of the men had riYigs of ivory, ^two inches broad, and about one in tbicki^ess ; these we were informed were the sons of the Raja or chief, whose high births Were distinguished by these cumbrous ornaments. Most of the men had their names marked on their arms, and the women had a p^quare ornament of flourished lines imprinted just under the b^nd of the elbow. On inquiry it was found that this practice had been common among the Indians "long before they were visited by any Europeans ; and m the neighbouring islands, it was said, the inhabitants were marked with cirt^les upon their necks and breasts. We were struck with the similitude between these marks, and those made by tattowing in the South Sea islands ; and M. Bossu-s account of some Indians who dwell on the banks oi Akanza, a river in North America, which falls into the Mississippi, will afford a pro- bable conjecture how the operation is per- formed. " The Alkanzas," says he, " have adopted me, and as a mark of my privilege, have imprinted the figure of a roe-buck upon my thigh, which was done in thjs manner: an Indian having burnt some straw, diluted the ashes with water, and with this mixture, drew the figure upon my skin ; he then retraced it, by pricking the lines with needles, so ^3 at every [mncture just to draw the blood, and the blood mix- ing with the ashes of the straw, forms a figure which can never be effaced." The houses of Savn are all built upon the .same plan, but differ in size, according to the rank and wealth of the proprietors, being from twenty feet to four hundred, and they are fixed on posts of about four or .1 r'l Vr. mu . .Ill 118 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS. five feet from the jp'ound. One end of these is driven into tlu; ground, and upon tiie other is laid a floor of wood, wlncii makes a vacant space of four teet between the floor of the house and tiie ground. On tills floor are raised otiier piUars that sup|)ort a roof of slopiui? sides, which meet in a ridge at the toj», like tliose of our barns ; the eaves of this roof which isthatched with palm leaver, reach within two feet of the floor, and over- iian<^ it as much. The sjMice within is g'e- nerally divided lens^tliways into three equal {>arts ; the middle part, or center, is inclosed )y a partition of four sides, reaching* about six feet above the floor,andone or two small rooms are also sometimes taken ofl'from the sides ; the rest of the space under the roof is open, so as freely to admit the air and the light. The ])articular uses of these apartments we could not, during our short stay, learn, except that the close room in the center was appropriated to the wo- men. As to the food of these people, they eat all the tame animals to be found in the island ; but they prefer the hog to all others; next to this they admire horse-flesh ; to which succeeds the buflalo, then poultry ; and they prefer cats and dogs to goats and sheep. Fish, we believe, is not eaten but by the poor, nor by them, except when their duty or business requires them to be upon the beach, and then each man has a light casting net, which is girt ronnd his body, and with this he takes any small tish which insw come in his way. The most remarkable and useful tree thai; grows on the island is the fan-palm. Its uses are so various, that it requires particu- lar notice. At certain times it is a succeda- neum for all other food both to man and beast. A kind of wine, called toddy, is ex- tracted from this tree, by cutting the buds, and tying under them small baskets, made of the leaves. The juice which trickles into these vessels is collected morning and even- ing, and is the common drink ot all the in- habitants. The natives call this liquor dua or duac, and both the syrup and sugar, gula. The syrup is not unlike treacle, but issonje- what thicker, and has a more agreeable taste. 6 The sngar is of a reddish brown, probably the same with the Jugata sugar upon tlie (Continent of India, and to our taste it Wiu more agreeable tlian any cane Kugar, uni-e< fnied. We at flrst apjMehended that the syrup, «»f which some ot our people eat great rpiantities, would have occasioned fluxes, but what eflect it produced was rather .salii. tary than hurtful. This syrup is used to fatten hogs, dogs, and fowls ; and the inha. bitants themselves have subsisted uiK>n tim alone tor several months, when other crops have failed, and animal food has been scarce, With the leaves of this tree the natives thatch their houses, and make baskets, ci'ps, umbrellas, and tobacco-pipes. They mak» least account of the fruit, and as the budj are wounded for the tuac or toddy, there it very little produced. It is nearly of the size of a full grown turnip ; and the kernels must be eaten before it is ripe, otherwise they are so hard, that the teeth will not penetrate them. As fire-wood is very scarce, the natives, by the following method, make a very little answer the ends of cookery and distillation, A hollow is dug under ground, like a rab- bit burrow, in a horizontal direction, ahout two yards long, with a hole at each end, one of which is large, and the other small. The fire is put in at the large hole, and tiie small one serves for a draught. Circuiaf holes 'are made through the earth whidi covers this cavity, on which are set earthern pots, large in the middle, and smaller to wards the bottom, so that the fire acts upon a large part of the surface. They contain generally about eight or ten gallons eacli. and it is surprising to see with what a small Quantity of fuel they are kept boiling. In this manner they boil all their victuals, anil make all their syrup and sugar. The Pe ruvian Indians have a contrivance oftlie same kind ; and perhaps by the poor in other countries it might be adoi)ted uitli advantage. In this island both sexes are enslaved by the pernicious custom of chewing beetle anil areca, contracted even while they are chil- dren. With the.se they mix a sort of white lime, composed of coral stones and sbclk to whie tity ot'i rendere the sm breath, teeth b( of both •uined, {rums, a OSS oft to the tc but our lime; fa ken,* as hard an fraduall y pow 9e mistal t>ad eflec ing refill 3 nan tity »at lime When tht >Pg beetle Ine mam fli small qi Into one %»g, as t ^a palm ''^re obsei *fThe igl Jfnigrees, IMja. TJ ««eua, Tin •* Seba, a with absol Jjnd thirty, had seen u J« governe tB took ve |e was dir larme, th Nady me >wer witj liversally It abuse ak, that Bsided ov %nd, had ht cordii l> he said AND ROUND THE WORLD. 110 IS eacl), a small 111"-. Ill \a\s, antl The Pe. le oftlie poor 111 ked w'itii laveil by jetle anil ire cliil- I of white d sbells to which \n added frequently a small quan- tity of tobacco, whereby their mouths are rendered disgustful both to the sig-lit and the smell ; tor the tobacco infects their breath, and the beetle and lime make the teeth botli black and rotten. We saw many of both sexes whose fore teeth were con- sumed, irregularly, almost down to tlie {[ums, and corroded like iron by nist. Tiiis OSS of teeth has generally been attributed to the tough stringy coat of the areca nut ; but our gentlemen imputed it wholly to the lime ; for the teeth are not loosened or bro- ken,* as might be the case by chewing of hard and rough substances, but they are gradually wasted, as even metals are •y powerful acids ; and they may not be mistaken who suppose that sugar has a bad effect upon the teeth of Europeans, see- ing refilled su^-ar contains a considerable auantity of lime, and it is well known, bat lime will destroy bone of any kind. When the natives are at any time not chew- Mlg beetle and areca, they then are smoking. the manner of doing this is by rolling up %small quantity of tobacco, and ])utting it eto one end of a tube, about six inches ng, as thick as a goose quill, avd made of a palm-leaf. The women in particular were observed to swallow the smoke. »The igland is divided into five districts eace wjfji his neighbours. This account of the martial l)rowess of the inhabitants of Savu may be true; but during our stay we saw no ap. jiearance of it. Before the town house, in- deed, we saw about one hundred spears and targets, which served to arm those who were sent down to intimidate us at the trading place, but they seemed to be the refuse of old armories, no two being ofthe same make or length, for some were six, others sixteen feet long. Not one lance was among them,an(( though the muskets werecleanon the oitside, within they were eaten by the ru.st into holes; and the people themselves appearec^ to be so little acquainted with military dis- cipline, that they came down like a disop derly rabble, every one having a cock, soma tobacco, or other merchandise, and i'tw or none of their cartouch boxes were furnished with either powder or ball, but a piece of paper was thrust into the holes to save ap- Eearances. We likewise saw before the ouse of assembly a great gun, some swivels, and patararoes : but the great gun lay with the touch-hole to the ground, and the swiv- els and patararoes were not in their carri« ages. The inhabitants of Savu are divided into five ranks, namely, the Rs^as, the land owners, the manufacturers, the servants, and the slaves. The Rajas are chief; the land owners are respected in proportion to their estates, and the number of their slaves, which last ^re bought and sold with their estates ; but a fat hog- is tlie price of oue iJ^ ji ir. \ sir' ^i M 120 purchased separately. NotwithstaTidins? a man may tlius sell his slave, or convey him with his lands, yet his power does not ex- tend farther, as he m.iy not even strike him without the Raja's permission. The estates of these land-holders are of very different fcxtent : some of them not possessing above five slaves, whilst others have 500. When a man of rank ^oes abroad, one of his slaves follows him with a silver hilted sword or hanger, ornamented with horse-hair tassels, and another carries a little bag containiiia- tobacco, beetle, areca, aild lime. This is all the state that even the Rajas themselves take upon them. These people have a jrreat veneration for antiquity. Their principal boast is of a lon«- line of venerable ancestors. Those houses that I'.ave been well tenanted for successive generations, are held in the highest esteem : even »^he stones which are worn smooth by liaving been sat upon for ages, derive a cer- tain value from that circumstance. He whose progenitors have be(|ueathed him any of these stone.s, or whose wealth has enabled liim to purchase them, causes them to ije ranged round his liabitation, for his servants and slaves to sit upon. The Raja causes a large stone to be set up in the chief town o{' €ach district as a monument of his reigu. In the province of Seba, thirteen such .stones were seen, as well a-; t};e remains of .several others which were much worn. These stones were all placed on the top of a hill, and some of them were of such an enormr.i.', «ize, that it was amazing by what means they could have been brought thither , nor could any infjrmation on tliis head be ob- tained from the natives . the.se monuments, however, indicated that for a series of gene- rations, the island had been regularly go- Yernt^d. When a R^ja dies, proclamation is m(!de, that all those who have been his subjects shall hold a solemn festival. ^ On this they proceed to the hill Mhere those stones are erected, and feast for .several werl^s, killing all the animals that suit their purpose, wherever they can be found, in o.- cler to furnish the treat, which is dady serv- eH up on the nionim futal stones. When they have thus exhausted their ^b'^le stock, VOYAGF TO THE SOUTH SEAS, they are compelled to keep a fast ; and when the feast happens to end in the dry .season, when they cannot get vegetables to eat, they have no other subsistence than tlie palm syrup and water, till the few animals which have escaped the general massacre have bred a suthcient number for a fresli supply, except the adjacent district hap. pens to be in a condition to relieve them. The natives of Savu have an instrunicnt with which they clear the cotton of its .seeds; it is about seven inches in height, and four. teen in length. They have also a machine with which they spin by hand, as was the custom before the invention of spinniiii; wheels in Europe. The inhabitants of this island were in ^e neral robust and healthy, and had ever} mark of longevity. The small pox, how. ever, is a distemper with which they are acquainted, and which they dread as mnoli as a pestilejjce. When any person is at- tacked by it, he is carried to a spot at adis tauce from the houses, where his food is conveyed to him by means of a long .stick, as no one dares to venture near him. Abaii doned by all his friends, he is there left to live or die as it may happen, without be- ii:g admitted to any comforts of the conn inunity. The Portuguese very early visited thi.s i< land, on which they established a settle ment, but .soon after they were succeeded by th ; Dutch, who without formally takins possession of the place, sent a number (j trading vessels in order to establish a com merce Vk ith the naf ives. Most of the Diitcii purchases, it is supposed, are confined toa $up[)ly of provisions for the Spice Islai.ik the inhabitants of which breed but a small number of cattle. The Dutch East Iiulia Company made an agreement with tliew' veral Rajas of the islands, that a qna.ntity of rice, maize, and callavances should bi ani:uaPj furnished to their people, who, in return, were to supply the K.ijan with .silk, linen, cutlcy wares, and :.rack. Certain small vessels, each having on board ten In dians, are sent from Timor to biing awaj the niaiz) and callavances, and a ship thm brings tL articles iiiroished by the i)utii B AND ROUND THE WORLD. 121 nt ; nnd when le dry season, ibles to eat, nee than tlie few animals eral massacre r for a frtsli district hap- ilieve them, ^n instrimu'iit an of its se^ils ; uht, and four- Iso a ma^'hiiie d, as was tlie I of spinniiii; md were in ge ind liad every all pox, how. Ai\cn they are dread as nnuii y person is at- I a spot at a dis ere his food ij of a long stick. ear him. A ban I is there left to jn, without b«. ts of the com. y visited this i< lished a settle were succeeded formally taliiiic t a number ol stablish a roiii' )st of the Dutcli e ronfined to a e Spice IslanK ?ed but a small ch East India nt with the* hat a quantity nces should hi leople, who, in .ii.jas with silk, /i-ack. Certain n boanl ten In to biing awaj and a ship thai by thel)utcli, teceivcs the rice on board once a year ; and US there are three bays,^ on this coast, this vessel anchors in each of them in turn. Tlie Dutch articles of commerce are accepted by the li^jas as a present ; and they and tlieir chief attendants drink of the arrack witliont intermission till it is exhausted. It was in the agreement above-mentioned that the Kaias stipulated, that a Dutch re- sident sliouid be constantly on the island. Accordingly this Lange, whom we have mentioned, was sent thither in that capacity, and a sort of assistant with him, whose fa- ther was a Portuguese, and his mother a native of Timor, with one Frederic Craig, whose father was a l>utchman, and his mo- ther an Indian. Mr. Lange visits the Rsya r in state, attended by tilty slaves on horse- ]back, and if the crops are ripe, orders ves- sels to convey them inuuediately to Timor, 80 that they are not even housed upon the island. It is likewise part of his business to persuade the landholders to plant, if he perceive that they are backward in that particular. This resident had been ten years on the island, when the Endeavour touched there, during all which time he had not seen any white persons, except those who came annually in the Dutch vessel, to carry off the rice, as above mentioned. He ivas inarrieJ to a native of Timor, and lived \n the same manner as the natives of Savu, Whose language he spoke better than any other. He ,sat on the ground like tlie In- dians, and chewed beetle, and seemed in ^very thing to resemble th-eni, except in his complexion and the dress of his coun- try. As to Mr. Craig, his assistant, he was em »l<»yed in teaching the natives to write aiK rea<^^ and instructing them in the prin- vCipes of Chri.stianity. Though there was neither clergyman nor chur(rh to bv seen upon the island, yet this Mr. Craig averred, that in the township of Seba only, there were 600 Christians : as to the religion of those who have not embraced Christianity, it is a peculiar species of Paganism, every one having a god of his own, somewhat after the manner of the Ceinies heretofore mentioned. Their morality, however, is much purer than could be expected from R such a people. Robberies are scarcely ever committed. Murder is unknown among them ; and though no man is allowed more than one wife, they are strangers to adu1< tery, and almo.st so to the crime of simple fornication. When any disputes arise be- tween the natives, the determination ofth? Raja is decisive and satisfactory. Some ob- servations were made upon the language of the natives, by the gentlemen, wnile the vessel lay here ; and a kind of vocabulary formed, a sketch of which we have here in* serted : Momonne, Mobunue, Catoo, Row catoo, Matta, Rowna matta, Swanga, Cavaranga, Wodeele, Vaio, Lacoco, Soo.soo, Caboo soosoo, DuUoo, Ass«>o, Tooga, Rooloo, Raibo, Dunceala, Ki.s.sove! yilla, Camacoo, Wulaba, Cabaou, Djara, Vavee, Doomba, Kesavoo, Gnaca, Maio, Mannu, Carow, I'angoutoo, lea, Uigoo, Nieu, • Boacere^ Calella, ' A man. A woman. The head. The hair. The eyes. The eye-lashef» The nose. The cheeks. The ears. I'he tongue. Th.. neck, llie breasts. I'he nipples. The helty. The navel. The thighs. The knees* The legs. The feet. The toes. The armj. The land. A uullalo. A horse. A hog'. A shtep. A goat. A dog. A cat. A fowl, llietaU. The beak. . . A fish. A turtle. A cocoa-nut Fan-palm. Arega. 132 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ' V r I .' '!:«!* Canana, • Beetle. Aou, Lime. Maanadoo, • A fish-hook. Tata, Tatou, or marks on the skin. Xiodo, The sun. Wnrroo, The mobn. Aidassee, The sea. Ailea, Water. Aoci Fire. Maate, Tabudge, To die. To sleep. Tatee too, To rise. TJsse, One. Lhiia, 'J\vo. Tulln, Three. ITppah, Four. Lumme, Five. TJnna, Six. Pedu, Seven. Arru, Fi-ht. 8aou, Nine. Singooroo, Ten. Sinf^unnigusse, - Fleven. Lhiiangoor'^o, 20. Sinj^^assu, 100. Setuppah, 1000. Seiacussa, lO.UOO. Serata, KKKOOO. Sereboo, 1,000,000. M It is here necessary to observe, that this island has not been laid down in any of the charts hitherto published, and as to our account of it, let it be remembered, that ex- cept tht tacts in which we were parties, an* ihe account of the objects which we had an opportunity to examine, the whole is founded merely upon the report of Mr. liange, upon whose authority it must there- fore rest. Of tho islands in the neighbourhood of Savti, the principal is Timor, which is an- nually visited by the Dutch residents on the other islands, in order to make up their ac- counts. Some of the towns on the north side of Timor are in the hands of the Por- tuguese ; but the Dutch possess a far greater liro;)(iriion of the island, on which they have I'ui't a fort, and erecte westward of it, whid) at noon bore S. S. E tlistunt two leagues. At four in the after- noon, in latitude 10 deg. HB niin. S. auri luBfitudc 298 dcg. SB min. W. we discovered AND ROUND THE WORtD. 123 undance of »at «re car- settlements ii^lunds are has a com. kv.»rd ofthe ide, in th« who have N. E. point an harbour Tlie island whose Imsi. ■ange on the ices, besides ither island^ ir, which \$ ition. There to the west w*ncb ■'« the rtc *"" ' "t* ties, as large wo vessels, e Endeavour Kwas wreck- e had been lys, when the instapt, and • part of the e lieutenant reached the ntry of Con- wants wert , returned to isome Dutch- _ them in re ion, and other jed to Con- veral weeks ; le such havoc If their iinni- native conn- vessel could lember, in tne ind bent our rthsideof it 1 lying: to U' 1 bore S. S. L in the after- min. S. auA I'e discoverwl ft small low island. In the evening- of tlie 23rd, we got clear of the islands, and on the 26th, our latitude by observation was 10 deg. 51 min. S. and our longitude 252 deg. 11 min. W. On the 28th, we steered all day N. W. with a view of maki> g tue land of Java, and on the 30th, Capt. Cook took into his possession the log-^ook and jour- nals, at least all he could Ond of the ofhcers, petty officers, and seamen, whom he strictly enjoined secrecy with respect to where they had been. At seven in the evening we had thunder and lightning, and about twelve by the light of the flashes we saw the west end of Java. On Monday, October, the 1st, at six o'cloc'c in the morning, Java Head bore S. E. by E. distant five leagues. Soon after we saw Prince's Island, and at ten CracatoJi, a remarkable high peaked island. At noon jt bore N. 40 E. distant seven leagues. On the 2nd, we were close in with the coast of Java, in fifteen fathoms water, along which we stood. In the forenoon a boat was sent .ashore, in order to procure -some fruit for Tu(>ia, who was at this time extremely Jll Our people returned with four cocoa- Muts, and a small bunch of plantains, for ^hich they had paid a shilling; but some herbage for the cattle the Indians gave our feamen, and assisted them to cut it. The pDuntry had a delightful appearance, being iSvery where covered with trees, which look- •^d like one continued wood. About eleven /clock we saw two Dutch East Indiamen, horn whom we heard with great pleasure, ti: It the Swallow had reached the Englisti nifiunel in safety, having been at Batavia ablaut two years before. We also learnt, that there was stationed here a fly boat or "packet, to carry letters, as was said, from the Di.u h ships, that came hither from Ba- tavia, but the Captain thought it was ap- toointed to examine all ships, that should |iave passed the strait. We had now been jk)ine hours at anchor, but in the evening a l5glit breeze springing up, we erot under sail, ^■■"^ hhviug little wind, and a strong current iinst us, we reached no further by eight the morning, oi the 3rd, than Bantam Point. We now perceived the Dutch (mcket 3 standing after us, but the wind shiflingr to the N. E. she bore away. We were now obliged to anchor ; which we did in twen- ty-two fathoms water, at about two milts from the shore. At six o'clock in the even- ing, the country boats came along side oi us, on board of which was the master ol ihe packet. They brought in them fowls, diK:ks, parrots, turtle, rice, birds, monke>s, ami other articles, with an intention to sell them, but having fixed very high prices on their commodities, and our Savu stock being net yet expended, very few articles were pm- chased. The Captain indeed gave two dol- lars for twenty-hve fowls, and a Spanish dollar for a turtle, which weighed about six and thirty pounds. V/e might also for a dollar have bought two monkeys, or a whole cage of rice-birds. The master of the packet brought with him two books, in one of which he desired of our officers, that one of them Would write down the name of our ship and commander ; the place from whence we came ; to what port bound ; with such other particnhtrs relating to our- selves, as we might think proper, for the information of any of our countrymen who might come after us. In the other book the master himself entered the names cf out ship and its Captain, in order to transmit them to the governor and council ef the In- dies. We perceived, that in the first book many ships, particularly Portuguese, had made entries of the same kind with that tor which it was presented to us. Mr. Hicks, our lieutenant, however, having written the name of the ship, only added, "from Eu- rope." The master of the packet took no- tice of this, but said, that he was satisfied with any thing we thought fit to write, it bein^ intended solely for the information ol our friends. jpridayithe 5th, we made several attempts to sail with a wind that would not stem the current, and as often cam« to an anchor. In the morning a proa, with a Dutch officer, came alon^-side of us^ and sent to Capt. Cook a printed paper in exceeding bad En< friish, duplicates or which he had in other anguages, all regularly signed, in the name of the governor and council of the Indiesi H4 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS. tm J fi . ? 1 '..ip.t by their secretary; the contents whereof were the following inquiries, contained in nine questions. 1 . The ship's name, and to what nation she belonsfed ? 2. If she came from Europe, or any other place ? .*}. Ffum vrhat place she had last depart- ed? 4. Whereunto designed to go ? 5. What and how many ships of the Dutch company by depailnre from the last shore there layed, and tLiir names ? 6. If one or more of these ships, in com- pany with the Endeavour, '■? departed for this or any other place ? 7. If during the voyage any j> alarities is hapiiened, or seen ? 8. If not any ships in sea, or the straits of Sunda, have seen, or hailed in, and which ? 9 If any other news worthy of attention, at the place from whence the ship lastly departed, or during the voyage, is happen- ed? Batavia in the Castle. By order of the Governor General, and the Counsellors of India, J. Brander Bungl. Sec. The officer observing, that the Captain did not choose to answer any of the above questions except the first and fourth, he said tJ)ut the rest were not material, though it was ro.'iiarked that just afterwards he atfirm- v.d he must dispatcJi the paper to Batavia, at which place it would arrive by the next day. This examination was rather extraor- dinary, and the more so, as it does not seem to have been of any long standing. As soon as the Dutch officer departed, the anchor v/as weighed, but in four hours the ^hip was forced to come to an anchor aarain, till a breeze sprang up ; she then held on her course till the next morning, when on account of the rapidity of the current, the ancjior was dropped aarain. At last we weighed on the 8th, and stood clear of a large ledge of rocks, which we had almost ran upon the preceding day. But in the forenoon we were once more obliged to an- chor near a little island that was not laijj down in any chart on board. It was found to be one of those called the Milles Isles. Mr, Banks and Dr. Solander having landed upon it, collected a few plants, and shot a bat which was a yard long, being measured trom the extreme points of the wings ; they also killed a few plovers on this island, the breadth of which does not exceed one hun- dred yards, and the length five hundred; they found a house and a little spot of ciil. tivated ground, and on it grew tne Palina ChristI, from which the West Indians make their castor oil. In a little time after the gentlemen re- turned to the ship* some Malays came along side in a boat, bringing with them pompion^ dried tish, and turtle, for sale; one of the turtles, which weighed near one hundred and fifty pounds, they sold for a dollar, and seemed to expect the same piece of money for their fruit ; but it being hinted to theili that a dollar was too much, they desired that one might be cut, and a piece of jt given to them, but this not being complied with, they at length sold twenty-six pompj. ons for a Portuguese petacka. When they departed, they intimated their wishes, tliat this transaction might not be mentionenrd at Batavia. We now made but little way till nisrlif, when the land-breeze springing up, we sailed to the E. S. E. and on the following day, hy the sxssistance of the sea-breeze, came to an anchor in the road of t'atavia. At this place we found a number of large Diildi vessels, the Harcourt East In(liam:in lioni England, which had lost her f)as.sni!e lo Chma, and two ships belonging to the nri vate trade of our India company. I'lip lui deavour had no sooner anchored, than a ship was observed, with a broad pendant flying, from which a boat was dispntohed to demand the name of the vessel, withlliiil of the commander, &c. To these inquiries Capt. Cook gave such answers as he thondit 1)roper, and the officer who commanded tlie )oat departed. This gentleman, and the crew that attended him, were so worn put with the unhealthincss of the climate, thai it was apparent many deaths would fbllon AND HOUND THE WORLD. 125 was not laiM wasfouiul to es Isles. Mr, aving landed ts, and shot a Bin's measHied e wings ; tliey his island, the ;ceed one hun- five hundred; tie snot of ciil- •ew the Palnia [ Indians make gentlemen re- lays came along them pompipns, sale ; one of the ir one hundred or a dollar, and piece of money tiinted to them :h, they desired id a piere of it t being comithed ventv-six ponipi- ka. When tlity heir wishes, tliat be mentionenrd , way till •^'i?''*' gingup» we sailed following day, by -eeze, came to an ,'atavia. At tins r of large J)iitili t Iiidiaman iVoni r her passaii'e to »nging to the imi- mpany. II'p'" jnchored, tlian a a broad pendant ^t was dispatched e vessel, with that- 'o these inquirie' jversashethoudit lo commanded the ntleman, and the were so worn out fthe climate, thai iths would folltnv a ret at present there was not one invalid on board of our ship, except the Indian Tnpia. Tlie Captain now dispatched an otHcer to the governor of the town, to apologize for the I'ndeavour's not saluting: for he had but .iree guns proper for the purpose, ex- cept swivels, and he was apprehensive that they would not be heard. The ship was so leaky, that she made about nme mches water in an hour, on the average ; part ol the false keel was gone ; one of her pumps was totally useless, and the rest so much de- cayed, that they could not last long. The officers and seamen concurring in opinion .that the ship could not be safely put to sea i«g;ain in thi^ condition, the Captain resolved •to sclicit permission to heave her down ; but as he had learned that this must be '^one in writing, he drew up a petition, and fliad it translated into Dutch. ■%. On Wednesday, October, the 10th, the €a|»tain and the rest of the gentlemen went On shore, and applied to the only English -resident at Batavia ; this gentleman, whose -name was Leith, received his countrymen -in the politest manner, and entertained them mt dinner with great hospitality. Mr. Leith ^formed us, that a public hotel was kept m town, by order of the Dutch governor, at ^hich place merchants and other strangers .'I'ere obliged to lo, her officers and the other gentlemen, might reside where they thought \proper, only asking leave of the governor, .«whose permission would be instantly ob- .tained. Mr. Leith added, that they might |iive cheaper m this way than at the hotel, if they had any person who spoke the Bata- Ivian tongue, whom they could rely on to purchase their provisions, but as there was Jiio such person among the whole ship's crew, Itlie gendemen iininediately bespoke Heds at ■the hotel. In the at'ternoon Capt. Cook at- |teiided the uoveriior gt'urral, who received liin |)olitely, and told hira to wait on the jsoitncil the next morning, when his |>etition ihoukl be laid before tiiea;,, and every thing that he solicited should be granted. Late in the evening of this day, there happened a most terrible storm of thunder and liglit- ning, accompanied with very heavy rain. In this storm the main-mast of a Dutch East Indiaman was split and carried away by the deck; and the main top mast and main-top-gallant mast were torn to pieces ; it is supposed, that the lightning was at- tracted by an iron spindle at the main-top. gallant-mast-head. 1'he Endeavour, which was at a small distance from the Dutch ship, escaped without damage, owing, most pro- bably, to the electrical chain which conduct- ed the lightning over the vessel. A centinel on board the Endeavour, who was charging his musket at the time of the storm, had it shaken out of his hand, and the ram-rod broken to pieces ; the electrical <;hain look- ed like a stream of fire, and the ship sus- tained a very violent shock. On Thursday, the 1 Ith, Capt. Cook wait- ed on the gentlemen of the '^ouncil, who informed him that all his requests should be complied with. In the interim the other gentlemen made a contract with the master of the hotel, to furnish them and their friends with asmuch tea, coffee, pimch and tobacco, as they might have occasion for, and to keep them a separate table, for nine shillings a day English money : but on the conditJGii that every person who should visit tliem, shcmld pay at the rate of four shillings and six-pence for his dinner, and the same snin for his supper and bed, if he chose to sleep at the hotel : they were likewise to pay ib( every servant that attended them tifteen- pence a day. It was soon discovered, that they had been much imposed on ; for these charges were twice as much as could have been demanded at a jirivate house. They appeared to live elegantly, but at the same time were but ill supplied. Their dinner consistefi of fifteen dishes, all served np at once ; and their su[iper of thirteen, but o( these, nine or ten were of the most ordiu.'iry, because the cheaMest, (poultry) that c( old be purchased, an even some of these dishes weieobseivedtof)e ^erved 14) lour times sno cessively : a duck, which \\as hot at diuHer, was brought cold lu the evening, the next 12fc VOYAGE 1 THE SOUTH SEAS, m im m liif «H;. « lawp' :f jiflw-' h Iwi' t wmI'iI i '11 ■i mm ■^f sfiii'l .1 K|p|: day served nw as fricassee, an in hopes of breathing a freer air ; how- ever this could not be done, as she was un- rigged, and preparing to be laid down at the careening-piace ; but on the 28th, Mr. Banks conveyed him to Co >per's Island, or •s it is called here, Kuypor, and, as he ieemed pleased with the spot near which the ship lay, a tent was pitched for him. When the sea and land breezes blew over hiui, he expressed great satisfaction at his situation. On the 30th, Mr. Banks return- ed to town, having, from humanity alone, been two days with Tupia, whose hts of an intermitting fever, now became a regular tertian, and were so violent as to deprive him of his senses while thev lasted, and left him so weak, that he could scarcely crawl from his bed. At the same time Dr. So- lander's fever increased, and Mr. Monk- house, the surgeon, was confined to his bed. On Monday, the 5th, of November, after Ihany nnavoiilable delays, the ship was laid down, and the same day Mr. Monkhouse, pnr siirgeou, fell a sacrifice to this fatal coun- li-y : whose loss was more severely felt, by lis l)eini> a sensible, skilful man, and dying it a time when his abilities were most want- ^. Dr. oolander was just able to attend bis funeral, but Mr. Banks, in his turn, was Confined to his bed. Great, inexpressibly gfreat was our distress at this time ; the pros- pect before us in the highest degree discou- raging ; onr danger such as we could not surmount by any efforts of our own, for cou- rage, diligence, and skill, were all equally ineffectual ; and death was every day mak- ing advances towards us, when we could leither resist nor fly. The power of disease, Vom the pestiferous airof the country, daily gaining strength, f^everal Malay servants /ere hired to attenvery but by removing into the country. In consequence of this advice a house was hired for them, at the distance of about two miles from the town, which belonged to the master of the hotel, who engaged to supply them with provisions, and the use of slaves. As they had already experienced the un- feeling inattention of these fellows to the sick, they bought each of them a ^lalay woman, who, from the tenderness of their sex made them good nurses. While these gentlemen were taking measures for the re- covery of their health, we rece'ved an account of the death of our faithful Tupia, who sunk at once after the loss of his boy, Tayeto, whom he loved with the tenderness of 3 parent. When Tayeto was first seized with the fatal disorder, he seemed sensible ot'liis apj>roaching end, and frequently said to those that were about him Tyau mafe see, " My friends I am dying ;" he was very trac- table, and took any medicines that wei-e of- fered him: they were both buried in th« island of Edam. On the I4th, the bottom of the ship was tJioroughly repaired, and much to Capt. Cook's satisfaction, who bestowed great 138 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, encomiums on the officers and the workmen at the Marine-yard ; in his opinion there is not one in the world, where a ship am \)n laid down with more convenient speed and safety, nor repaired with more diligence and skill. At this place they heave down with iwo masts, a method we do not now ])rnc- tise ; it is, however, nnqnestionably more safe and expeditious to heave down* with two masts tnan one, and the man must want common sense, or be strangely attached to old customs, who will not allow this, after seeing with what facility the Dutch heave down and refit their lararest vessels at On- nist. At this time Capt. Cook was taken ill. Mr. Sporinsf also, and a sailor who at- tended Mr. Banks, were seized with the deadly intermittents, and only ten of tiie ship's company were capable of doing duty. As to Mr. Baid(s and Dr. Solander, they recovered slowly at their country house, which was oj)en to the sea breeze, and situ- ated upon a running stream ; circumstances that contril ited not a little to a free circu- lation of an-. Yet not*vithstanding these perplexing obstacles, though harrassed by a contagious disease, and alarmed by frequent deaths, we proceeded in rigging the ship, and getting water and necessary stores on board : the stores were easily obtained and shipped, but the water we were obliged to f)rocure from Batavia, at the rate of six shil- ings and eight-pence a leager, or one hun- dred and fifty gallons. On the 25th, in the night there fell such a shower of rain, fur the space of four hours, as even all of us had cause ever to remem- ber. The water poured through every part of Mr. Banks's house, and the lower apart- ments admitted a stream sufficient to turn a mill. As this gentleman was now greatly restored in health, he went to Batavia the following day, and was surprised to see that the inhabitants had hung their bedding to dry. About the 3b'th, of this month the westerly monsoon set in ; it blows in the day-time from the N. or N. W. and from tlie S W. during the ni^ht ; previous to this, there had been violent showers of rain for several nights. The moschittos and gnats, whose company had been sufiiciently disa- 8 greeable in dry weather, now b«i^n to swarm in immense numbers, rising from the puddles of water like bees from a hive; they were extremely troublesome during the nin. E. lon- itude from the meridian of Greenwich, is milt on the bank of a large bay, something lore than twenty miles from the Strait of hmda, on the north side of the island of Fava, on a low boggy ground. Several laU rivv.rs> which rise forty miles up the country, in the monntaihs of Blaeuwen Berg, discharge themselves into the sea at this place, having first intersected the town m different directions. There are wide ca. nals of nearly stagnated water in almost every stre€St, and as the banks of the canals are planted with trees, they appear at fast very agreeable ; but these tre«s and canals 130 VOVAGE TO THE SOUTH SHiS, combine to render the air pestilential. Some of the rivers are navigable, more than thirty miles up the country : and, iiideed, tlie Dutch appear to have chosen this spot to build the town on, for the sake of water carriag;e, in which convenience Batavia ex- ceeds every place in the world, except the towns of Holland. A writer who published an account of this place near 50 years ago, makes the number of houses at that time 4,760, viz. V242 Dutch houses, and 1,200 Chinese houses, within the walls ; and 1,066 Dutch houses, and 1,240 Chinese houses, ivithout the walls, with 12 houses for the vending of arrack. The streets of Batavia V)eing wide, and the houses large, it stands on more ground than any place that hpsonly an equal number of houses. In dry ..^athera most horrid stench arises from the'canals, and taints the air to a great decree ; and when the rains have so swelled tlieir canals that they overflow their banks, the ground-floors of the houses, in the lower part of the town, are filled with stinking water, that leaves behind it dirt and slime in amazing quanti- ties. The running streams are sometimes as offensive as the stagnant canals ; for the bodies of dead animals arefrequently lodged on the shallow parts,^ where they are left to putrify and corrupt the air, accept a flood Happens to carry them away ; this was the case of a dead buffalo, while the crew ofthe Endeavour were there, which lay stinking on the shoal of a river, in one of the chief streets for several days. They sometimes clean the canals ; but this business is per- formed in such a manner, as scarcely to make them less a nuisance than before, for the bottom being cleared of its blac k mud, it is left on the side of the canal, till it is hard enough to be taken in boats ; and as there are no houses for necessary retirement in the whole town, the filth is thrown into the canals regularly once aday ; so that this muiece of building, and the dome of it may )e seen far off at sea- This oliurch is illu- minated by chandeliers of the most superb workmunshi]), and has a fine organ : most ofthe other public buildings are ancient, constructed in an ill taste, and gave a very complete idea of Dutch clumsiness. Their method of building their houses seems to have been taught them by the climate. Oti the ground-floor there is no room but a larc-e hall, a corner of which is parted ofl* for tlid transaction of business; the hall has two doors, which are commonly lefl open, and are opposite each other, so that the air pas- ses freely through the room, in the middle of which there is a court, which at once in< creasesthe draught of air,and affords light to the hall ; the stairs, which are at one corner, lead to large and lofty apartments above, The female slaves are not permitted to sit in any place but the alcove formed by the court, and this is the usiual dining place ot the family. Batavia is encompassed by a river of shal« low water, the stream of which is very rapid; within this river, which is of different widthi in various places, is an old stone wall, much decayed in many places, and within the wall is a canal, wider m some places than in others, so that there is no entering the gates of the town but by crossing two draw-bridg. es ; there are but few on the ramparts, and no persons are admitted to walk there. There is a kind of citadel, or castle, in the N. E. corner ofthe town, the walls of which are both broader and higher than they are in other parts ; it is furnished with a num* ber of large guns, which command the land, ing-place. Apartments are provided in this castle for the governor-general, and all the council; and in case of a siege, they have orders to retire thither. In the castle are likewise a number of store-ho ses, in which the efl'ects belonging to the company are deposited, The company have in their possession larg:e < nantities of gun-powder, which is kept in ( ifferent places, that the lightning may not { estroy the whole stock at once ; a great number of cannon are likewise laid up\vitli< in the castle. There are a great many fort* built in different parts ofthe country, seve. ral miles distant from Batavia, most probably erected to keen the natives in submission; and, besides these, there are a number oi lie ancient, ;ave a very less. Tlieir »s seems to iiuiate. On 1 bnt a larp 1 off for tlid ill has two t open, and the air pns< tlie inidditi 1 at once in< fords light to t one corner, nents above, nitted to sit rmed by the ling place ot I river of shal« is very rapid; Iferent widths lewall, much ithin the wall laces than in ;ring the gates 'o draw-brid£. ramparts, and walk there, castle, in the vails of which than they ar« with a num. land the land* in this castle ill the council; (ave orders to ^re likewise a |ich the eftectj ire deposited, jssession lanie jich is kept in (ning may not lonce ; a great _laid up with, [eat many forts country, save. [most probably submission; a number ol AND ROUND THE WORLD. 131 fortified houses, each mounting eight guns, which are so stationed as to command the canals and the roads on the borders. There are houses of this kind in many parts of the island of Java, and the other islands in its neighbourhood, of which the Dutch have obtained possession. The Chinese having rebelled against them in the year 174(), all their principal houses were demolished by the cannon of one of these fortified houses, which is in the town of JJatavia, where, Kkewise, there are a few more of them. The roads of this country are only banks between the ditches and canals, and the for- tified houses being erected among the moras- ses near these roads, nothing is easier than to destroy them, and consequently to prevent an enemy from bringing any heavy artillery near the town : if, indeed, an enemy be only hindered a short time in his approach, he IS effectually rUined ; for the climate will {)reclude the necessity of the use of weapons or his destruction Before the Endeavour had been a week at Batavia, her crew began to feel the ill effects of the climate ; half of them were rendered incapable of doing their duty before the expiration of a month. JThey were informed, that it was a very un- common thing for 5() soldiers out of 100 Wought from Europe, to be alive at the ex- piration of tiie first year, and that of the 50 who might happen to be living, not ten of those would be in sound health, and, pro- bably, not. less than half of them in the hos- pital. In Bntavia all the white inhabitants are soldiers, and at the expiration of five years service, they are bound to hold them- selves in readiness to go to war, if they should be wanted, and the younger inhabi- tants are frequently mustered ; but as they ire neither trained nor exercised after le expiration of the five years before- lentioned, the little they have learned is jon forgotten. The Indians, of what- ever nation, who reside here, and have jcither been made free, or were born so, are called Mardykers; but neither these nor Je Chinese are acquainted with fire-arms ; it, as these people are said to possess great Brsonal bravery, much might be expected 3 from their expert u.ut neither of ihese places is higher than ten yr.rils from the level of the plain. At near 40 miles from the town, the land rises into iiills, and the air is purified in a great «lemee : to this distance the invalids are sent by their physicians, when every other pros- j)ect of their recovery has failed, and the experiment succeeds in almost every in- stance, for the sick are restored to health ; but they no sooner return to the town, than their former disorders revisit them. On these hills, the most opulent of the inhabit- ants have country seats, to which they pay an annui>l visit. Those who reside con- stantly on the hills, enjoy an almost perpe- tual flow of health; and most of the vege- tables of Europe grow as freely there as in tlieii- native ground : the strawberry in par- ticular flourishes greatly, which is a suffi- cient proof of the coolness of the air. In tliis country rice is very plentiful, and, ni order to be brought to perfection, shoulu lie under water more than half the time it is growing : but they have a sort which grows on the sides of the hills, which is un- known in the West-India islands; this sort is [)lanted when the wet season commenrp^, and the croj) is gathert*! in. soon after the rains are over. The maize, whicii grows near Batavia, is gat liercd while young, and 4 roasted in the ear. The land likewise pro jjiices, carrots, celery, parsley, asparr.gus, <»nions, radishes, cabbages, lettuces, cucuni. bers, lentiles, kidney-beans, hyssop, sage, rue, Chinese white radishes, which, when boiled, are not unlike a parsnin, comtudii potatoes, wet and dry yams, millet, and the egg plant, the fruit of which, wIkmj broiled and eaten with salt and pepper, is most ex- quisite food. Ama/ing crops of sugar are produced here, and, while the quantity is beyond comparison greater, the care of ciij. tivatiou is inconceivablv less than in flie West-India islands. White sugar is retailed at two-pence halfpenny the pound : and ar. rack is made of the molasses, with a small addition of rice, and the wine of the cocoa, nut. The inhabitants likewise raise a lit. tie indico for their own use, but do not ex- port it. The fruits of this country are near forly in number, and of some of these there are of several kinds. Pine-apples grcv in such abundance, that they may beir iased,at the first hand, for the value of '^iUglis), farthing; and we bought some vtry lar;je ones for a halfpenny a-piece at th? fruit. .slnijis, and their taste is very excellent, They grow so luxuriantly, that seven or eight suckers have been seen adhciiig to one stem. The sweet oranges of Batavia are good of their kind, but very dear at pm. ticular times. The shaddocks of the West- Indies, called here Pamplenrooses, li.ive iin agreeable flavour. Lemons were very scarce when the Endeavour lay in the fiarbonr, but limes were altogether as plentiful, jiiid sold at little more than two-pence the scks of the West. •ivooses, have ini ! were very scarce in the harbour. as plentiful, and o-pence the scharapada is in alt The jamboo is a fruit that has but little resjjects like the nauca, only that it is not taste, but is of a cooling nature: it is consi- so large. The rambutan contains a fruit <(derably less than a common sized apple, within which is a stone, that is |>erhaps t!ie ^nd those that have grown to their full size, finest acid in the world : this fruit is not un- ire always the best; its shape is oval, and like a chesnut.with its husk on ; audit is Its colour a deep red. - Of the Jambu-eyer, covered with small prickles of a ])a and the ca- liiira are two s;»ecies of nuts, the kernels of which are like iliose of an almond, but so hard, that jt is almost impossible to break tliem. 'i'lie madjacontanisa pulp of a sharp taste, which is eaten widi sugar: this fruit is covered with a Iianl snell. The suntal is a fiiiit scarcely tit to be eaten, being: ai; once astringent, acid, and of a most unpleasant taste, yet it is i)ublicly sold in the streets of Ijatavia: it contains a number of kernels, %vhich are in<}losed in a thick skin. The salack is nearly of the size of a small golden f)ippin, and contains a few kernels of a yei- ow colour, the taste of which is not unlike that of a stiavvberry ; but the covering of this fruit is very remarkable, as it consists of a number of scales, resembling* those of a fish. Tlie chefrema and >he blimbing, a'e two sour fruits, exceedingly well adapted to make sour sauce, Hfxd ^*ickles. The blimbing besse is another fruit of the same kind, but considerably sweeter. Of the fruits not in season when Capt. Cook was at Batavia, are the boa atap, and the kin ''.ip, which he saw preserved in su- gar : aud there are several oi'.er sorts which the Biitavians are fond of, but they are ne- ver eaten by strangers: among tnose are the r.oringa, the guilindina, the killer, and the soccum ; this last has the appearance of the bread-fruit which is produced in the is- land.; of the South Seas, but it is not near so good, though the tree o;i which it grows is almost exactly like the bread-fruit tree. At Batavia vast quantities of fruit are eaten. There are two markets held weekly, at dis- tant places, for the accommodation of those who reside in different parts of the country. Here the fruit-sellers meet the gardeners, and purchase the goods at low rates. We are told it is not uncommon to see fifty or sixty loads of pine-apples carelessly thrown together at those markets. Flowers are strewn by the inhabitants of Batavia and Java, about their houses, and they are con- fctanlly burning aromatic woods and gums, «*bich is supposed to be done by way of 6 purifying the air from the stcnrh that aris. es from the canals and ditches about tite town. In this country sweet-scented flowers ixr.* plentiful, many species of which being ev- tirely unknown, are worth remarking. T!ie com bang N>nquin, and combang carenassi, are particularly /Vagrant flowers, which bear scarcelyanyresemblance to any of those flow- ers with which we are acquainted. 'I'hey ait very small, and seem to be ofthedog's-bane species. The canuuiga which is more like a bunch of leaves than a flower, is •>! a sin. gular smell, but very grateful. 1 he bon tanjong is of a pale yellow cast, and hajsa very agreeable smell : it is about an inch and a half in circumference, and consists oi pointed leaves, which give it the appearance of a star. The chainpacka smells somewihnt like a jonquil, but is rather of a deeper yel- low. A large tree upon the island produces tliis flower. There is also an extraordinary kind of flower called fundal i.^^lam, which .signifies the intriguer of the night. Thii flower has no smell in the day-time, but as night comes on, it has a verv fragrant scent, and is very much like the English tuberos?. These flowers being made into nosegays of different shapes, or strung u]ion thread, are carried through the street for sale on an evening. The gardens of the gentlemen produce several other sorts of flowers be. sides these which we have mentioned, but they are not offered*to sale, because there i» not a sufficient plenty of them. A plant, called the pandan^, is produced here, the leaves of which benig shred small, and mix. ed with other flowers, the natives of both sexes fill their clothes and hair with this mixture, which they likewise sprinkle on their beds, and sUep under this heap nf sweets, a thin piece of chintz being their only covering. Formerly the only spice that grew on the island of Java was pepper. A considerable quantity is brouurht from thence by the Dutch, but very little of it is made use (if in the country. The inhabitants prefer oa}- an pepper, and are fond of cloves and iiiil- me^s, but these first are too dear to be com- monly used. Near the island -of Amboyiia IW.H AND ROUND THE WORLD. 135 irh tliat ari* les about tite ed flowers ivc^ Inch beinif ev- laikins?. T!ie aii!^ carenassi. 2rs, wliJch bear ^ of those flow- ted. They art 'thedog's-bnne li is more like er, is of a sin fill. Ihe bon ast, and ha:f a deeper yel- island produces \ extraordinary hiftlain, which e night. Thii lay-time, but as fragrant sceiit, nglish tuberos*. ito nosegays of pon thread, are for sale on an che gentlemen i of flowers be- mentioned, but )ecause there is lem. A plant, uced here, the small, and nii\< latives of both hair with this se sprinkle on this heap of ntz being their r at grew on tlic A considerable thence by tlie s made use tom of their respective all who do not profess the religion of Maho- countries, while others are emplo}e(l to met, and ill this they include the Portuguese, carry goods by water; and others ajjau But the Portuguese of Batavia are .so only subsist by fishing. The Oranslams, or be- in name ; for they have neither any con- lievers of the faith, feed principally on buil ne'tion vitli, or knowledge of the kingdom ed rice, mixed wifh a .small quantitvol of Portugal, and they have changed the re- dried shrimps and other fish, which areim. ligion of the church of Rome, for that of ported from Clnna., and a little of the Hf 4 Luther; with the manners of the natives, of buffaloes an J chickens; they are fond ol i,*- AND ROUND THE WORLD. 137 nd they com thougii they TuiJt kine(i t« nd others auain •an slams, or be- incipally on lioil mall quLMtitvo! h, which areim. ittle of the ll«li they are fond ol fruit, of which they eat lar«:e quantities, ^nd with the flour of tlie rice they make several torts of pastry. They sometimes make very iuperb eutertaimnents, alter the lashion of their respective countries; but, in general, they are a very temperate people ; ot wine they drink very little, if any, as the religion of Mahomet, which they profess, torbidsthe use of it. AVlien a marriage is to be solem- nized among them, all the gold and silver ornaments that can be procured, are bor- towed to deck out the young couple, who, on these occasions, never fail to make the most splendid appearance ; sumptuous en- tertain nient? are given by those who can afford them, which continue twelve or four- teen days, and frequently more, during all ifi'hich time the women take care that the fcridegroom shall not visit his wife privately, ♦hough the v/edding takes place previous to 4lie festival. All these Indians, though they iQOme from different countries, speak the ICalay language, if it deserves that name. i0n the island of Java there are two or three ilifferent dialects, and there is a language peculiar to every small island ; it is conjec- ilared that the Malay tongue is a corruption lifthe language of Malacca. The hair of ipiese people, which is black without a sin- 4||le exception, grows in great. abunc' ' ^^ ; '|tet the women make use of oils, and . 4llgredients, to increase the quantity of ii ttey fasten it to the crown of the head with s* bodkin, having tirst twisted it into a cir- cle, round which they j)lace an elegaiit •wreathe of flower.s, so that the whole head- dress has a most beautiful appearance*. It M the uliiversal custom bbth with the men (mid women, to bathe in a river once every ly, and sometimes oftner, which not only romotes health, but prevents that contrac- lon of filth, that would be otherwise un- midable in so hot a climate. The teeth of le Oranslams have some particulars in kem well worthy of notice. With a kind 'whetstone they riib the ends of them till ley are quite flat and even ; they then ike a deep groove in the teeth of the up- jrjaw, in the centre between the bottom jeach tooth and the gum, and horizontally th the latter; this groove is v^qual in T depth to a qnarter of the thickness of the teeth; yet none of these people have a rot- ten tooth, though according to the dentists ofEiijiiand and France, such a thing must be unavoidable, as the tooth is pla< ed much deejier than w hat we call the enamel. The teeth .of these i)eople become very black by the cliewing of beetle, yet a slight washing will take off this blackness, and they will then become perfectly ^ivhite ; but they are very seldom washed, as the depth of the colour is very far from being thought dis- agreeable. 3Iost of our readers must have heard of the Mohawks; and these are the people whf> are so denominated, from a cor- ruption of the word amock, which will be explained by the following story and obser- vations. To run amock is to get drunk with opium, and then seizing some offensive wetu pon, to sally forth from the house, kilt the person or persons supposed to have injured the amock, and any other person that at- tempts to impede his passage, till he him* self is taken prisoner or killed on the spot. While Capt. Cook was at Batavia, a per, son whose circumstances in life were in* dependent, being jealous of his brother, in- toxicated himself with opium, and then murdered his brother, and two other men who endeavoured to seize him. This man, contrary to the usual ^n torn, did not leav« iiis own house, but iii ide his resistance fr(»m wit iin it; yet lu had taken such a quantity of the opium, th.t he was delirious, which appeared from his attempting to fire three muskets, neither of ^ liirli had been loaded, nor even primed. Jealousy of the women is the usual < ason of these poor creatures running amock (or a-inuck) and the first object of their vengeance is the person whom they suppose to have injured them. The otficer, whose ' mess it is to apprehend these unhappy wretches, is furnished with a long pair of tonus, in order to take hold of them without coming within the reach of the point of their weapon. Those who may be taken alive, which is not often the case, are generally wounded ; but they are always broken u|)on the wheel; and if the physician, who is appointed to examine their wouiids thinks them likely to bv 138 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ' " , ■; ■» J I,. „ mortal, the punishment is inflicted immedi< ately, and the place of execution is generally the spot where the first murder was com- mitted. A number of absurd customs pre- vailed among these people, and opinions no less ridiculous. They believe that the devil, whom they call Satan, is the author of sick- ness and adversity ; therefore, when sick, or in distress, they offer meat, money, and other thi^igs, as propitiatory sacrifices. Should one amon^ them be restless, or should he dream for two or three niffhts successively, he imagines the devil has laid liis commands upon him, when, upon neg- lect to fulfil, he concludes his punishment will certainly be sickness or death, though such commands may not be revealed with sufficient perspicuity. To interpret his dream, therefore, he strains his wits to the uttermost, and if, by taking it literally or figuratively, directly, or by contraries, he can put no explanation that satisfies him, he applies to the Cawin or priest, who unravels the mysterious suggestions of the night, by u comment, in which it generally appears, that Satan wants victuals or money. These are placed on a little plate of cocoa-nut leaves, and hung upon the branch of a tree near the river, so that it seems not to be the opinion of these people, that in prowling the earth, the devil "walketh through dry pla- ces." Mr. Banks once asked, whether they thought Satan spent the money, or eat the victuals; they said, that as to the money it was considered rather as a mulct upon an offender, than a gift to him who had en- joined it ; and that therefore if it was de- voted by the dreamer, it did not signify into whose hands it came, and they supposed it was generally the prize of some stranger who wandered that way ; but respecting the meat, they were clearly of opinion, that, al- though tiie devil did not eat the gross parts, yet by bringing his mouth near it, he sucked out all its savour without changing its posi- tion, so that afterwards it was as insipid as fi'ater. Another superstitious notion of this peo- ple is still more unaccountable. They ima- gine that women, when delivered of chil- dren, are at the same time delivered of a 3 young crocodile ; and that those aniwiali being received carefully by the midwivo are immediately carried down to the rivei and put into the water. The family ji which such a birth is supposed to have ha|). pened, constantly puts victuals into tlie river for their amphibious relation, especi, ally the twin, who as long as he lives, goe» down to the river at stated times, to fnltij his fraternal duty ; for an omission of whieli, according to the general opinion, he will be visited with sickness or death. We are al a loss to account for an opinion so extrava- gant and absurd, especially as it seems to be unconnected with any religious mystery, and how it should be pretended to happen by those who cannot be deceived into \ belief of it by appearances, nor hpve any apparent interest in the fraud, is a problem still more difficult to solve. The strangj belief of this absurdity, however, is certain, for which we had the concurrent testimony of every Indian who was questioned about it ; and as to its origin, it seems to have taken its rise in the islands of Celebes anil Boutou, at which ])laces, many of the inlia. bitants keepcrocodile;s in their families ; but however that may he, thiso|>iniun hassi)rea(j over all the eastern islands, even to Tiinof and Cream, and westward as far as Java and Sumatra. The crocodile twins aw called Sudaras, and we shall here relate one of the innumerable and incredible storiei ill proof of their existence, as was confr dently affirmed, from ocular demonstrations yet for the credibility of this relation we will not vouch. At Bencoolen was born and bred amont the English a young female slave, who iia^ learnt a little of the language. This girl told Mr. Banks that her fatlier, when on his death bed, informed her that he had a crocodile for his Sudara, and in a soleniD manner charged her to give him meat wlien he should be dead, telling her in what part of the river he was to l)e found, and by vvliai name he was ,o be called up. That iricoi> sequence of her father's injunctions, siiere^ paired to that part of the river he had 4 scribed, and standing upon the bank, called out RadjiA jPouti, " white king ;" whereupon AND ROUND THE WORLD. 199 hose animal 1 je midwivo to the rivei he family ii I to have haj). lals into tlie lation, especi. le lives, goes imes, to fulfil ision of whieli, ion, be will be 1. We are a\ on so extrava- IS it seems to gious mystery, ded ut consider, how earnestly every one de- time for necessary refreshments of food and Ires to tnake others believe what he be- sleep. In manners they are always rather Bv s himself The Bougis, Macassars, and obsequious; andin dress they are remarkably Vtous, are so firmly persuaded that neal^and clean, in whatever rank of life ^^5!^ 40 rOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, \t %^' they are placed. A description of tlieir [»er- Bons or dress is unnecessary, seeing the bet- ter kind of China paper common in £n^;1and, exhibits an exact representation of both, though perhaps with some slip:ht exaggera- tions. With respect to their eating, tlney are easily satisfied ; but the few that aio rich have many savoury dishes. The food of the poor is rice, with a small proportion of flesh or fish ; and they have the advantage of the Mahometan Indians, on account of their religion ; for the Chinese, being under no restraint, eat, besides pork, dogs, cats, frogs, Jizards, serpents, and a great variety of sea animals, which the other inhabitants do not consider as food. They also eat many ve- getables, which an European, except he was perishing with hunger, would not taste. They have a singiilar custom respecting the burying their dead ; for they cannot be pre- vailed upon to open the ground a second trme, where the body* has been deposited. On this account, in the neighbourhood of Batavia, their burying-grounds contain ma- ny hundred acres: and the Dutch, pretend- ing this to be a waste of land, will not sell any for this purpose, unless at an exorbitant price. The Chinese, however, contrive to raise the purchase money, and aflJbrd ano- ther instance of the folly and weakness of hwnau nature, in transferring a regard for the living to the dead, and making that an object of solicitude and expence, which can- hot receive the least benefit from either. Under the influence of this universal preju- dice, they take an uncommon method to preserve the body entire, and to prevent the remains of it from mixing with the earth that surrounds it. To this end they enclose it in a large thick wf/oden cofiin, hollowed out of solid timber like a canoe. This when covered and let down into the i^rave, is surrounded with a coat of mortar, ralletl Chinam, abont eight or ten inches thick, which in a short time cements, and becomes as hard as stone. The relatives of the deceased attend the funeral ceremony, with a considerable nuiriber of female mourners, hired to weep. In Batavia, the law requires, that every mv.n should be in- terred according to his ra):K, which is in no 4 case to be dispensetl with ; so that if the de. ceased has not left suflicient to pay his debts, an otficer takes an inventory of what was in his possession when. he died, and out of the i)roduce buries him in the niai:. ner prescribetl, leaving only the overplus to his creditors. The lowest class of people in this country are the slaves, by whom the Dutch, Portu- guese, and Indians, whatever their rank or situation, are constantly attended. They are bought in Sumatra, Malacca, and a!. most all the Eastern Islands: but the na- tives of Java, very few of whom live in Ba- tavia, are exempted irom slavery, under the sanction of very severe penal laws, seldom we believe violated. These slaves are sold from ten to twenty pounds sterling eacli; but girls, if handsome, will fetch sometimes a hundred. Being of an indolent disposi. tion, they will not do much work, and are therefore content with d little victuals, suhi sisting altogether upon boiled rice, and a small quantitj^ of the cheapest fish. They are natives ot diflerent countries, on w^ich account they differ from each other ex- tremely both in person and temper. The Papua, as they are here called, or the Afri- can negroes are the worst, most of them thieves, and all incorrigible; consequently they may be purchased for the least money. The next class to these are the Bougis and Macassars, both from th^ island of Celebes; who in the highest degree pre lazy, thougli not so much addicted to theft as the ne- groes ; yet they are of a cruel and vindictive spirit, whereby they are rendered exceeding; dangerous, especially as to gratify their re- sentment, they make no scruple of any means, nor of sacrificing life itself Besides these there are Malays and slaves of other denominations: but the best, and of course the dearest, are those brought from the is- land of Bali ; and the most beautiful women from Nias, a small island on the coast of Simiatra ; but being of a tender and deli- cate constitution, they quickly fall a sacri- fice to tlie unwholesome air of Batavia. All these slaves are wholly in the povVer of their masters, who may inflic* "oon them any punishment that does n . take away i liat if the de. to pay his itory of what lie died, and n in tlie iiiau. the overjdus I this country >ntcli, Portu- their rank or nded. They icca, and al. : but the iia« [n live in Ba. ery, under the laws, seldom aves are sold iterliiig: Pacii; tell sometimes lolent disposj. I'ork, and are victuals, subn d rice, and a >t fish. Tliejr ries, on w^^ich ach other ex. temper. The d, or the Afri- most of them consequently e least money, e Bou^is and nd of Celebes; e lazy, though eft as the ne- and vindictive red exceeding •atify their re- runle of any self. IJesides laves of other and of course it from the is- autiful women the coast of jder and deli- y fall a sad- f Batavia. All the power of c* "i)on them . take away :i AND ROUND THE WORLD. 141 life; and should one dl* in consequence of punishment, thousrli his death may be prov- ed not to have been intended, yet the mas- ter is called to a severe account, and geuer- Hlly sentenced to suff'er capitally. For this reason a master seldom corrects a slave with his own hands, but by an officer i-alled a Marineu, one of whom is stationed in every district. The duty of this officer is to quell riots, and to take offenders into custody ; but more particularly to apprehend runaway slaves, and punish them for such crimes as the master has supported by proper evidence; the punishment, however, is not inflicted by trie Marineu in person, but by slaves who are appointed to the business. The punishment is strpes, the number being proportioned to the nature of the offence ; liiid the instruments are rods made of rat- tens, which are split into tender twigs for the purpose, and every stroke draws blood. A common punishment costs the master a lixdollar, and a severe one a ducatoon, about fix shillings and eight-pence. The master U also obliged to allow a slave, as an en- 4K)uragement, three dubbelcheys, equal to ^hoxit seven pence half-penny a week ; this |l also done to prevent his indulging his trong temptations to steal. Respecting the government of this place je can say but little. We observed a re- farkable subordination among the people, j^ery house-keeper has a certain specific 4hink, according to the length of time he iias served the company. The different mnks thus acquired are distinguished by the ornaments of the coaches, and the dres- •acs of the coachmen: some ride in plain JBoaches, some are allowed to paint them •rith different devices, and some to gild ^em. The coachmen also are obliged to Appear in clothes quite jilain, or ornament- IBu in rarious manners and re subordinate ; a.id they were obliged to jpair to Batavia in order to have their ac- Mints passed by him. Should they appear have been criminal, or even neghgent, he tains them during pleasure ; sometimes three years ; for they cannot without lii» permisjaion quit the place. The meinlxjr.s of the council, called by the natives Edele Heeren, and by the English, Idoleers, are next in rank to the governer-general. These assume so much state, that whoever meets them in a carriage, are expected to rise up and bow, and after this compliment, they drive to one side of the road and stop, till the members cf the council are past: their wives and chihlren expect also the same homage, and it is commonly paid them by the inhabitants. Some English Caj)tain$ have thought this a slavish mark of respect, derogatory to their digni^ as servants of his Britannic majesty, and for this i^ason have refused to pay it ; nevertheless, when in a hired coach, nothing but a menace off immediate death could prevent the coach- man from honouring the Dutch grandee, at the expence of their mortification. With respect to the distribution of justice, it ',s administered in Batavia b^ the law- yers, who have peculiar ranks ot distinction among themselves. Their decisions in cri- minal cases seem to be severe with respect to the natives, but lenit ,t iu a partial degree to their own people. A Christian is always indulged with an opportunity of escaping before lie is brought fo trial, whatever may be his offewe, and when convicted, he is seldom punished with death. On the con- trary, the poor Indians are hangS4l, broken upon the wheel, and even impaled alive. As to the Malays and Chinese they liave judicial officers of their own, named cap- tains and lieutenants, who determine in civil cases, subject to an appeal to the Dutch tribunal. The taxes laid upon these peo^ pie by the company are very considerable, among which, that exacted for liberty to wear their hair is not the least. The time of payment is monthly, and to save tlie charge and trouble of collecting them, no- tice is given of this by hoisting a flag upon the top of a house in the middle of the town, and the Chinese find that it is their interest to repair thither when a payment is due without delay. At Batavia the current money consists ot duoarts, valued at one hundred and thirty-twa j Jj ( m I: li r' \i :f h Hi VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA15, lii: ': i,!i f' ,ii< ptivei^: dncatoons eighty stivers; imperial rix-dollars, sixty ; rupees, tliirty ; scheliinffs, tt\x : double cheys, two stivers and a half; «nd 'e, at least, are nominal, like our pourkl sterling. On Thursday, the 27th, of December, early in the morning, we weighed, left the harbour of Batavia, and stood out to sea. On the 29th, after much delay by contrary winds, we weathered Pul6 Pare, and stood for the main. On the same day passed a small i«^aiid between Batavia end Bantam called Maneater's island. On Sunday the 30tli, we weathered Wapping and Pulo Babi islands, and Ihe next day, being the 31st, we stood over to the Sumatra shore. On the morning, of ^his new year's day, being Tuesday, Jiinuary, the 1st, 1771, we steered for the Java shore, and continued our course, as the wind permitted us, till three o'clock in the afternoon of the 5th, when we cast anchor on the south east side of Prince's Island, in eighteen fathoms win- ter, in order to recruit our stores, and pro- cure refreshments for the sick, many of whom were much worse than they were at our departure from Batavia. Mr. Banks and Dr So4ander, accompanied by the Cap- tain and other gentlemen, went ashore. IVe met U|)on the beach some Indians y whom we were conducted to one, who, they said, was their king. Having exchaog- ed a few compliments with this person, ivr entered upon business; but in settling the price of turtle could not agree. Upon this we took leave, the Indians dispersed ; and we proceeded along shore in search of a watering place. We happily succeeded in a very convenient one, and had reason to believe, with care in filling, it would prove agreeaMe to our wishes. On our return, some Indians, who remained with a canoe upon the beach, sold us three turtles, but we were obliged to promise, that we woulj not tell the king. On Sunday, the ()th, Me renewed with better success our traffic for turtle. About noon' the Indians lowertd their demands slowly, insomuch, that be- fore the evening they accejpted our stipulat- ed price, and we had turtle in plenty. In the mean time, the three we had purchased were served to the ship's company, who, till yesterday, had not fed on salt provisions from the time of our arrival at Savu, whicli was now near three months. Mr. Banks, in the evening, paid a visit to the king, by whom he was received very graciously at his palace, in the middle of a rice field, not- withstanding his majesty was busily eni. ployed in dressing his own supper, fht day following, Monday, the 7th, the Indi. ans resorted j the trading place with foujj, fish, monkeys, small deer, and some vege- tables ; but no turtle appeared till next day, Tuesday, the 8tli, after which some werj brought to market every day, while we staid, but the whole quantity together was not equal to that we bought the day after our arrival. Friday, the 11th, Mr. Banks havinnfrfr ceived intelligence from a servant he ha'd hired at Batavia, that the Indians of thii island had a town situated near the shore, to the westward, he determined to "o in search of the same. With this view he set out in the morning, accompanied by tin second lieutenant ; and apprehending ttu visit might not be agreeable to the native^ he told such of them as he met, that he wai in search of plants, which was indeed alse true. Having come to a place v. here then were three or four houses, they met wilt an old maot ot whom they ventured to maki AND ROUND THE WORLD. 143 ! person, wp settling tile Upon tlii>i ipersed ; and search of a succeeded in lad reason to would prove 11 our return, with a canoe e turtles, but hat we would ,y, the 6th, we our traffic lor idians loweied nuch, that be- ed our stipulat- in pler.ty. In had purchased ipany, who, till salt provisions at Savu, which s. Mr. Banks, / to the king, by y gracio«s\y at a rice field, not was busily em. n supper. Thi ; 7th, the Iiidi. place with fowls, and some ve-je. red till next day, lich some wen , while we staid, [ogether was not le day after oat Janks having rfr servant he ha'd Indians of thii near the shore, rmined to go in I this view he set Impanied by tk apprehending Btt tie to the native^ met, that he wai - was indeed al» [place V here then Is, they met wft ventured to nttlu mfew inquiries concerning the town. He .would have persuatled them, that it was at 4 great distance ; but perceiving they p o- ceeded forward,he joined the company, and went on with them. The old man attenipt- ^JBd several times to lend them out of the way, tli(»ugh without success ; but when at length they came within sight of the houses, he entered cordially into their party, and conducted them into the town, the name of which is Samadang. It consists of about for hundred houses, and is divided by a ))rackish river into two parts, one called the old, and the other the new town. When they had entered the former, they were ac- costed by several Indians whom they had geen at the trading place, and one of them undertook to carry them over to the new town, at two-pence per head. The bargain jpeing made, they embarked in two small finoes, placed along-side of each other, and shed together, to prevent their over-setting, hey landed safelv, though not without t^nke difficulty ; and when they came to the iiew town, the people shewed them every lark of a cordial friendship, shewing them )e houses of their king and principal peo- Few of the houses were open at this e, the inhabitants having taken up their idence in the rice-grounds, to defend leir crops against the birds and monkeys, " o without this necessary precaution would ^ (troy them. When their curiosity was p^isfied, they hired a large sailing boat foir two rupees, value four shillings, which (Conveyed . them to the bark time enough tQ dine upon one of the small deer, weigh- ing only forty pounds, which proved to be !^ceeding good and savoury food. In the ;^yening we again went on shore, to see how J|ur people went on, who were employed in ooding and watering, when we were told, lat an ax had been stolen. Application as immediately made to the kmg, who, "er some altercation, promised, that the should be restored in the morning , and was accordingly brought to us by a man, ho pretended, tnat the thief, afraid of a scovery, had left it at his house in the r Sunday, the ISth, having nearly com- 'pleted our wood and water, Mr. Banks, took h-ave of his majesty, to whom he made several tritlinar presents, and at parting gav« him twociuires of paper, which lie graciously accepted. During their conversation, the king inquired, why the English d-d not touch at the island as they had used to do ? Mr. Banks replied, that the reason »vas, he supposed, because they found a deticiency of turtle, of which there not being enouuh to supply one ship, many could not be ex- pected ; and to supply the defect, M|r. jBanks advised his majesty to breed cattle, butialoes,^ and sheep ; but he did not seem disposed to adopt this prudent measure. On Monday, the 14th, we had got on board a good stock of fresh provisions, con- sisting of turtle, fowl, fish, two species ol deer, one about the size of a sheep, the other not bigger than a rabbit ; also cocosfr* nuts, plantains, limes, and other vegetables. The deer, liowever, served for only present use, fop we could seldom keep one of them alive more than twenty-four hours. The trade on our parts, was carried on chiefly with Spanish dollars, the natives seeming not to set value upon any thin< else ; so that our people who had a genertH permission to trade, parted with old shirts and other articles, which they were obliged to substitute for money to great disadvan- tage. On Tuesday, the 15tli, in the morn- ing, we weighed, with a light breeze at N. E. and stood out to sea. We took our de- parture from Java Head, which is in lati- tude 6 deg. 49 min. S. and in longitude 253 deg. 12 min. West. Prince's Island where we were stationed about ten days, in the Malay language, called Pulo Selan, and in that of the inha- bitants, Pulo Paneitan, is a small island, situated in the western mouth of the strait ofSunda. It is woody, a very small part of it having been cleared. We could per- ceive no remarkable hill upon it; but a small eminence, just over the landing place, has been named, by the English, the Pike. Formerly this place was much frequented by India ships belonging to various na- tions, especially from England: but of late they hav« forsaken it, because the water is 144 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS. H ' i ■m ! .i bad, and touch either at North Island, or at New Bay, a few leages distant from prince's Island, at neither of which places any considerable quantity of other provi- sions can be procured; and, upon the u hole, we must give it as our opinion, that Prince's Island is more eligible than either of them; for tliough, as we have already observed, the water is brackish, if filled at tiie lower part of the brook, yet higher up we found it excellent The first, second, and perhaps the third ship, that arrives here in the season, may be well supplied with turtle ; but such as come atlerwards must be content with small ones. What we purchased were of the green kind, and cost us, at an average, about three farthings a pound. Thejj were nei- tlier fat nor well flavoured, which circum- stance we imputed to their being long kept in pens of brackish water, without food. The fowls are large, and we bought a dozen of them for a Spanish dollar, which is about live-pence a piece. The small deer cost us two-pence a piece, and the larger, two only of which were brought to market, a rqpee. The natives sell many kinds offish by hand, and we found them tolerably cheap. Cocoa- nuts, if they were jiicked, we bought at the rate of a hundred for a dollar; and if taken promiscuously, one hundred and thirty. Plantains we found in abundance ; also pine-apples, water-melons, jaccas, and pom- pions, besides rice, yams, and several other vegetables, all which we purchased at rea- sonable rates. In this island the inhabitants are Java- nese, and their Raja is subject to the Sultan of Bantam. In their maimers and customs they resemble the Indians about Batavia ; but they are more jealous of their women, for all the time we were there, we saw not any of them, except one by chance in the woods, as she v, as running away to hide herself. They profess the Mahometan re- ligion ; but not a mosoue did we discover in the whole island. While we were among them, they kept the fast called by the Turks Ramadan, with extreme rigour, not one of them touching a morsel of victuals, nor would they chew their beetle till sun-set 8 Their food is likewise the same with that of the Batavinn Indians, except the addition of the nuts of the palm, by eating of which, upon the coast of New Holland, some oj our people were made sick, and some of oiu hogs poisoned. We inquired by what means these nuts were deprived of their iioxiois deleterious quality, and were informed, thai they first cut into thin slices, and dried tliem in the sun, then steeped them in fresh water for three months, and afterwards, pressing out the water, dried them a second time in the sun ; but after all, we found they arc eaten only in times of scarcity, when tliej mix them with their rice to make it go lur. ther. The houses of these peojde are built upo; jiiles, or pillars, and elevated about fouroi five feet above the ground. Upon these is laid a floor of bamboo canes, at sucli ^ distance from each other, as to leave a fm passage for the air from below. The \vall> also are of bamboo, interwoveii hnrdlewise with small sticks, and fastened perpendi cularly to the beams which form the fraiiit of the building; it has a sloping roof. »< well thatched with palm-leaves, that neitliei the sun, nor rain can find entrance. lt\ ground-plot, upon which the buildin:: ii erected, is an oblong square. On one sidt is the door, and in the space between tliai and the other end of the house, in tlit centre, towards the left hand, is a windoA A partition runs out fi-om each end of tli( house, which continues so far as to leavt an opening opposite the door. Each end of the house therefore, to the right and lei of the door, is divided into two apartinenk all o|}en towards the passage from the dooi to the wall on the opposite side. In thai on the left hand, next to the door, the chil- dren sleep ; that opiwsite to it is for the ii« of strangers ; in the inner room, (.n the left hand, the master and his M'ife sleep; aiid that opiwsite to it is the kitchen. Tlie only difference between the poor and llit . rich, with respect to these houses, consist! in their size : but we must except the rnyal palace, and the house of one Gnndanj the next man in riches and influence Ut\h king ; for those instead of being ^vattle(l i with thnt of tlie addition iiig of which, niid, some \)\ d some of our y what means their noxiois informed, thai ud dried them in Iresh water ards, pressing econd time in jund they art ;y, when tliej make it go far. ; are built upo: I about four ni Upon these mes, at such a to leave a frw ow. The walL veil hurdlewisf tened x)erpen(li form thefraiik sloping' roof, w ves, that neitk entrance. Tht Ithe buildins !« On one sidt between tlia! house, in tlit , is a window ach end oftlit far as to lea\t oor. Each end riglit and left two apartment xe from the dooi side. In that door, thecliil- > it is for the m oom, en the left wife «leep; aiii kitchen. Tht le poor and tlif houses, consist! except the rnjal one Onndan;, influence totlii If being- Avattleil AND ROUND THE WORLD. 145 with sticks and bamboos, are encloiied with ney, living us 240 doiti, ftmnuntinf^ to five These m the j)eo|»Ie have occasional rice tields, at the .season ivlien they are infested with the birds and monkeys. They differ only from tlieir town boards liouses m shillings, for a Span ^h dollar, and ninety- six, amounting to two shillings, for a Ben- gal rupee. The natives of Prince's Island have a Ian- houses, by being raised ten feet instead of guage of their own, yet they all speak th« ibur from the ground. Malay language. 1 heir ow The inhabitants of this island are of a good iiisposition ; and dealt with us very own tongue they call Catta Gunung, the language of the mountains. They say that their tri be origin- honestly ; only like other Indians, and the ally migrated from the mountains of Java retailers of tisli in London, they would ask to New Bay, and then to their present sta- twice, and sometimes thrice as much for their commodities as they would take. As what they brought to market belonged in different i>roportions, to a considerable number of^the natives, they put all that was tion, being driven from their first settlement by lygers, which they found too numerous to subdue. Several lanaruages are spoken by the native Javanese, in diflerent parts of their island ; but the language of these peo- l#ught of one kind, as cocoas or plantains pie is ditterent from that spoken at Saiwa- tagether, and when we had purchased a lot, rang, thou;;!! distant only one day's journey tiley «livided the money that was paid for it from the residence of the Emperor of Java. {Umong the proprietors, in a proportion cor- rfsponding with their contributions. Some- tames, indeed, they would change our mo- Prince's Island. Jalma, Becang, Ofociilatacke, "tolo, [ata, Cbole, Cijitock, BeBtung, Serif, Pimping, Hulfoctoor, Metis. Cucu, muno Langan, English. Javanese. A num. m Gong Lanang, A woman. m Gong W^dong, A child. Lari, The head. Undass, The nose. Erung, The eyes. Moto, The ears. Cuping, The teeth. Untu, The belly. Wuttong, The backside. Celit, The thigh. Poopoo, The knee. Duncul, The leg. Sickil, A nail. Cucu, A hand. Tangan, Ajinger. Jari, The following list contains several corres- Imnding words in the languages of Prince's sland,*Java, and Malacca. Malay. Gran Lacki Laki. I'arainpuan. Anack. Capalla. Edung. Mata. Cupinsr. Ghigi. Prot. Pantat. Paha. Lontour Kauki. Cucu. Tangan. Jaring. [n this specimen the difl^erent parts of the ^uage in Prince's Island, have words, which ay are chosen, because they are easily if not exactly similar to those used in the tamed from those whose language is un- South Sea islands, are manifestly derived own ; and it is worthy of observation, from the same source, as will appear froiw It the Malay, the Javanese, and the Ian- the following list. jth-Sea. Malay. ►ta Mata ^ Macan lU Men urn tte ' Matte / U Javanese. Moto Mangan Gnumbe Matte Prince's Isle. Mata Engush. An eye. The ear. To drink. To J^^^ ' 111 140 South Sea. Outou £uwa Owh« Ell Mannu £yca Tapao " Tooura Eufwhe £tannou Eiianimou Uearu Taro Uta VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SE/VS, Mauy. Coutou • « » Sousou • • • lean ^ mm m Udansr • - Tannam Gnammuck - Garru - - Tallas - - Utan • J Jatanebb. Udan • ■ ■ « Sousou Manny Iwa Tapaan Urang Urve Tandour Garu Talus PriNCB'8 IsUND.ENGLfdH* - - - - A lou«ie^ - Awe - - Mannuck Rain. Bamboo caKfr A beast. A bird. A Hsh. The foot. A lobster. Yams. To bury. A moschitto. To scratch. Cocoa-roots. Inland. But the similitude in these languages is more remarkable in words expressing num- ber, which seems to prove that they have one common root. Mr. Banks, with the as- sistance of a negro slave, born at Madagas- car, and who was on board an English ship at Batavia, drew up the following compa- rative table, from whence it will appear, that the names of numbers, in particular, are in manner common to all these coun< tries: but we must observe, that in the island of Madagascar, the names of numbers, jn some instances, are similar to all these^ yet the fact which is a difficulty not easy to be solved will appear unquestionable from the following list of words, drawn up, asut have observed, by Mr. Banks. South Sea, Malay. Tahie Satou - Rua Dua Torou Tiga Haa Ampat - Reina Lima Wheney Annam Hetu Tudju Waru - Delapau Iva Semoilan Ahoura Sapoulou Javanese. Sigi Lorou Tullu Pappat Limo Nuiinam Petu Wolo - Songo Sapoulon Prince's Islb.Madagascar. Hegie Dua Tollu Opat Liinah Giinnap Tudju Deiapan Salapan Sapuulou Isse Kiiii Tell.Ml Effats Li mi Kne Titou Walon Sivi Tourou English. One. I'wo. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Nine. Ten. From the similitude between the Eastern Tongue and that of the South Sea, many conjectures may be formed concerning the peopling of those countries, which cannot easily be referred to Madagascar. The people of Java and Madagascar appear to be a different race : the Javanese lias long hair, and his complexion is of an olive cast ; whereas a native of Madagascar is black, and his hair woolly ; yet this will not conclude against the opinion of their having had com- i2ion ancestors : andt possibly, the leanuDg of ancient Egyi)t might run in two courw one through Africa, and the other thmiti Asia, disseminating the same words in ead especially terms of number, which mi;;lii thus become part of the language of peopi! who never had any communications wiL each other. In the month of February, we held 03 our course, and made the best of onr mi for the Cape of Good Hope ; but now i fatal seeds of disease, our people had imbibd at Batavia, begun to appear, with the ido^ '*: '"'^.^■;f 'I AND hOUND THE WORLD. 147 LfiM* 1. iiboo canCi east, ird. ish. I foot, obster. ns. bury, (noschitto. scratch, coa-roots. and. all these coun. hat in the island of numbers, in c to all thes«, mlty not eas^ to lestionable from Irawn up, as *t ks. English. One. I'wo. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Nine. Ten. in two coursis ! other throiis'i words in eacti er, which mifili iguage of peopi! lunications wiia le arv, we held 03 best of onr wa; ,^ ; but now till ople had imbiW ir, with the BCft rtariniPj? symptoms, in dysenteries and slow levers. Our situation in a short tune was truly deplorable, and the ship was little better thuu an hospital, in wliicfi those who did duty, were too few to attend those who were oontined to their hanimf#cks. Many of these were in the last stage of the de- structive disorder; and almost every nifflit we committed a body to the sea. Mr. Banks was among the number of the sick, and iov some time we despaired of his lite. In the course of six weeks we buried Mr. Sporing, a gentleman of Mr. Banks's reti- nue, Mr. Parkinson, his natural history painter, Mr. Green the astronomer, the boatswain, the carpenter, and his mate, Mr. Monk house the midshipman, our jolly sail- maker, and tiis assistant, the cook, the cor- poral of the marines, two of the carpenters erew, a midshipman, and nine sailors; in •11 three and twenty persons, besides the peven that we had buried at Batavia. Such SIS the havoc disease made among our ip's company, though we omitted no Boeans, which we conceived miprht be a re- ibedy ; and to prevent the infection from ilpreadiuii-, we puriiied the water taken in %X Prince's Island with lime, and washed I parts of the bark between decks with inejiar. Pv Friday, the l"itli of March, about ten i^clook P. M. we brought the ship to an imclior nlf the Cape of Viood Hope. Capt. Cook repaired immediately to the governor, who cluerfully promised him every reiVesh- rnent the country aflbnied ; on which a house was hired for the sick, and it was ^reed they should be lodged and boarded for two shdlin; '> each man per day. Our run from Java Head to the Cape afforded J. JJbw observations that can be of use to future Navigators, but some occurrences we must not [Mass over in silence. yVt had l^ft Java iHead eleven days before we got the {scneral S. E. trade-wind, during which time, we did not advance above 5 Beg. to the south- fWard, and 3 Ae^. to the W, having an un* holesome air, occasioned probably by the lead of vapours, which the eastern wind, d westerly monsoons, bring into these lati- des, both of which blew in these seas, at the time we happened to be there. Our diseases were certainly aggravated by those poisonous vapours, and unwholesome air» j)arti(Mdarly the tlux, which was not in the least degree checked by any medicine ; so that whoever was seized with it, consider- ed himself as a dead man ; but we no sooner f:ot into the trade wind, than we felt its sa- utary effects. It is true, we buried several of our cvew afterwards, but they were sii.rli as had been taken on board in a state so low and feeble, that there was scarcely a possibility of their recovery. Wesusj^'cted at first, titiat this dreadful disorder might have been generated by the water that we took on board at Prince's Island, or by the turtle we purchased there ; but this suspi- cion we found to be gi'oundless ; because all the ship;^^ that came from Batavia at the same season, suffered in like manner, and some even more severely, though none of them touched at Prince's Island in their way. Not many days af^er our departure from Java we were attended bv the boobies for several nights successively, and as these , birds are Known to roost every ni^ht on shore, we concluded land was not tar dis^ tant ; perhaps it might be the i.sland of Selam, whicn in different chat-ts, is very differently laid down both in name and .si- tuation. After these birds had left us, we were visited by no more, till we goj; nearly a-breast of Madagascar, where in latitude 27 deg. three quarters S. we saw an alba- tross, the number of which increased every day, with others of different kinds, particu- one about ..he size of a duck, of a very dark b.own colour, with a yellowish bill; and ihey became more numerous as we ap- proached the shore. When we got into soundings, we Were visited by gannets, which we continued to see as long as we were upon the bank that stretches off An- guillas to the distance of forty leagues, and extends along shore to the eastward, from Cape False, according to some charts^, one hundred and sixty leagues. The real ex- tent of this bank is not exactly known ; it is however useful as a direction to shipping when to haul in, in order to make the land. if !'.'-^ I mm; I 148 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, At the time the Endeavour laid at the Cape of Good Hope, the Houghton India- iiieii sailed tor Enirland. She had buried near tbrty of her crew, and when she left the Cape, had many of her hauds in a help- less condition, occ^asioned by the scurvy. Other shii)S likewise experienced a propor- tionable loss by sickness ; so that our sutier- inc^s were comparatively light, considering that we had been p.!y.-«.ent near three times as Ions?. We continued at the Cape till the 13th of Ai>ril, in order to recover the sick, procure stores, and to do some necessary work" upon the ship and rig-ging. When this was finished we got all L.e sick on board, several of whom were still in a dan- gerous state ; and on Sunday, the 14th, hair- ing taken leave of the governor, we un- moored, and got ready to sail. T!it; history of Calfraria is well known in Europe, and a description of the Oape of Good Hope has been given by most of our circiunnavigators ; yet we think a particnlat account of this C'»untry will be acceptable to our numerous subscribers; and they will meet with some particulars which fell under our observatior., that have either been wholly omitted or misrepresented in other narra- tives. CatTraria, or Caftreria, is well situated for navigation and commerce, both which ad- vantages are almost wholly neglected. Tlie cnterioi" part of the country is fertile, but ;vants J!?e benefit of cultivation. The inha- bitants are naturally sagacious, but their faculties are absorbed in indolence; thus both the lands and minds of the peo()le re- quire imnrovement ; hut lest cultivation in the firstslinuld mtroclnce!uxury.and informa- tion in the last produce disobedience, neither of these are encouraged by the politic Dutch, *vho possess a great part of the sea coa^'t. The country extends about seven hundred and eighty miles tVom N. to S. th.it is, from Cape Negro to the i'ii\->e of Good Hope, from hence t\nuing \. I], to the mouth of tiie river Spiritu Santo, it runs about six hunthvd and sixty mihs; and proceed i tin" i\[i the country almost to the e<|uinox!al line, it is about one thousand seven hun- dred and forty miles tarther. In some pla- ces it is nine hundred, and in o 'lers not above six hundred broad. CattVan,. is so named from the Catties, its inhabitants; though some authors atiirni, that his nain' is the term of reproach given by the Aviibs to all who have but confused notions of th,. deity, and which the Portug«iese have by mistake applied to these jjeople. The Cape of Good Hope, which is the most southern part of Africa, was tirst djs. covered, A. D. 1493, by Bartholemew Diaz, admiral of a Portuguese fleet, who on ar. count of the boisterous weather he met witli when near it, distinguished it by the name of Cabodos totos Tormentos, or the Cape' it all plagues ; since which, no place in the universe has been more spoken of, tfuiuyli little of the coimtry, except the coast, lias been penetrated or known. The reason why it has so much attracted the attention of mariners of all nations, is, their being uii- der a necessity of frequently calling there for water or other refreshments, and also of doubling it, in their voyages to the East- Indies. But John king of Portugal, not liking the name which his admiral had be- stowed upon this large promontory, changed it to that of Cabode JJona Esperanca, tlie " Cape of Good Hope," which ajipellation it hath ever since retained. Neither Diaz, ner his successor Vasco de Gama, though tJiey saw the Cape, thouj^lit pro|)er to land : but in 1498 the Portugiit^se admiral, Kio del Infanta, was the first who ventured ashore ; and fron: his report, Emanuel, king of Portugal, on account of the eligibility of the situation, determined to establish a colony there ; but the Portu- ffuesr, who are naturally pusillanimous, laving taken it into their heads that the inhabitants of the Cape were cannibals, were too much afraid of being devoured, to obey their swvereign in making the settle- ment he intended : however, some time after, another bmly of these timid adveiitiir- ers made good their landing, under the conduct of" Francis tTAImeyda, a viceroy of Ihasil, when the Portuguese were shame- fully defeateil by the scarce arn?sd, and iin warlike natives. The viceroy and fifty of his men being killed iu the eng^agement, ||' AND ROUND THE WORLD. I'i'J o '^ers not rtVarii. is so inhubit'.mts; at his iiHiiv; y the Aruhs otitms of till t'se have liy e. which is till' was first Wis- ^leniew Diaz, , who on ar. r he met with by the name r tlie Cape' it place in the m of, though he coast, has The reason the attention their bein«i" nn- callins? there ts, and also ot ? to the East- Port nu ah not Imiral had he- jntory, chanued Esperanca, the ch appellation essor Vasco de ;^ape, thonsht the Portngufse the first who n his report, on account of >n, determined jnt the Portu- pnsillanimous, leads that the ere cannibals, g devonretl, to jng- the settle- ^r, some time imid adventnr- ng, under the |la, a viceroy o( . were sham^ •e armed, and ^eroy and tiity e engasemeut, Ihe remainder retired with precipitation to their ships. The Portuguese Avere much disappointed and chasirined at the idea of such martial superi(>rity in a people by them deemetl at once savag'e and despica- ble. They determined to l»e reveut^ed ; but not having- macnanimity enough to shew a becomini? resentment, they contrived a most inhuman and cowardly expedient. About two years after, touchmg- at the cape, they landed with all the api)earance of amity, accompanied with stiong professions of frieii, and under this mask brought witli tll^'m a large cannon loaded with grape shot. The unsuspecting- natives, overjoyed by the giit of so great a treasure, began to drag- i) aw .iy by the means of two long ropes, which had been previously fastened to the muzzle. C«reat jjuuibers laid hold of the ropes, and uniny others went before bv way *>f triumph, when the treacherous I'oi'tu- guese tiring ott* the cannon, a prodigious slaug-hter ensued, as inost of the |)eople $tood within the range of the .shot. Many were killed, several wounded ; and the few who escaped, abandoned with the utmost precipitation the fatal j)resent. About the year 1600, the Dutch began to touch at the Cane, in their way to and limm the East-Indies ; and becoming an- nually more sensible of the iinportance of the place, they efJected a settlement 1 ().>(), wllich since that time hath risen to great I)Ower and opulence, and been of essential service to that nation. M. Van Ricbeeck, a surgeon, in hia return from India, observ- ing the conveniency of the placo f<(" a set- tlenient, and laying before the Dutch East India Company, a plan of its advantages, the scheme was approved, and tlu; projfcctor appointed governor. This Adventurer sail- ing with four ships to the cape, entered into a negotiation with the people, who, in con- sideration of fifty thousand guilders, or four tlwusand three' hundred ar.d seventy-five munds sterling, agreed to yield up to tin; Butch aconsiderai)le tract of country round Ae Cape. Van Ricbeech, in order to se- c«re his new purch ise. immediately erected a strong square fort; laid o\it a large gar- d«n, and planted it W'th a great variety of the productions from Europe, that he might rencfer the place as comnnxi'.ous ami agree- able as possible. Having thus successfully foun«led a settlement, the Dutch Ccunpany propose ■\ ,)| ■I ;i fctined them up to war. Accordingly they took up arms, and, being headed by Do- man, attended by another chief named Ga- rabinga, they committed great depredations. But the Hottentots themselves at length |:rowing tired of the war, one hundred of them, belonging to one nation, came unarm- ed to the Dutch fort, with a present of thir- teen head of fine excellent cattle, in order to sue for peace. This, it may be imagined, was readily granted by the Dutch, who were heartily sick of a contest, in which themselves were such great losers, without leaping any advantages from it. Notwithstanding all that has been said to the contrary, no country we saw during the voyage, makes a more forlorn appearance, or is in reality a more steril desart. Tlie land over the cape, which constitutes the peninsula formed by Table Bay on the N. and False Bay on the S. consists of high mountains, altogether naked and desolate : the land behind these to the E. which may Ibe considered as the Isthmus, is a plain of vast extent, consisting almost wholly of a light kind of sea sand, which produces no- thing but heath, and is utterly incapable of cultivation. All the spots that will admit of improvement, which together bear about the same proportion to the whole as one to one thousand, are laid out in vineyards, or- chards, and kitchen grounds ; and most of these little spots lie at a considerable dis- tance from each other. There is also the greatest reason to believe, that in the inte- rior parts of the country, that which is oa- j)able of cultivation, especially what is situ- "ated at no great distance from the coast, does not bear a greater proportion to that which is barren , for the Dutch told us, that they had settlements eight atul twenty days up the country, a distance eqTial at least to nine hundred miles, from which they bring (irovisioni to the Cape by land ; so that it seems reasonable to conclude, that provisions arr not to be had within a less compass. While we were at the Cape, a farmer came thither from the country, at the distance of fitb en days' journey, and brought his rhiMren with him. We were surprised at this, and asked hiui, if it would 6 not have been better to have left them with his next neighbour. Neighbour ! said the man, I have no neighbour within le.ss than five days' journey of me. Surely the coun- try must be deploral'ly barren in wliieli those who settle only to raise provisions for a market, are dispersed at such distances from each other. That the country is every where destitute of wood is a certain fact; for timber and planks are imported from Batavia, and fuel is almost as dear as food, We saw not a tree, except in plantatioiu near the town, that was six feet high ; an^l the stems, that were not thicker than o man's thumb, and roots as thick as an arm or le§^; such is the influence of the winds hereto the disadvantage of vegetation, without considering the sterility of the soil. Cape Town is the only one the Diittit have built here, and it consists of about a thousand houses neatly built of brick, whii. ed in general on the outside. They are iv vered only with thatch, for the violence ol the S. E. winds would render any otliw roof inconvenient and dangerous. Tlie street^ are broad and commodious, crossing each other at right angles. In the main one is a canal, on each side of which is fdanted a row of oaks, that have grown to erable well, and yield an agreeable shade In another part of the town is also a canal but the slope of the ground in the course of both is so great, that they are fnrnislmi with locks at intervals of little more \\u fifty yards. The houses in general liiut pleasant gardens behind, and neat conr: yards before them. Building, as vvell ;ii tillage, is greatly encouraged here, and l;iiii given for either purpose to those who vhm to accept of it ; but then the governniei;: claims an annual tenth of the value ot tlit former, and produce of the latter, and,. tithe of all purchase money when estate are sold. The town extends from the «ri shore to tlie Company's garden, spreadii; along Table Bay. 'J'he fort is in a valiri at a small distance, its form pentagonal, i: commands the latiding-place, and is f^,'liri soned by two huu(lre. ){t them witb )ur ! said tlie bin less than rely the coun- •en in which provisions for ucli distances »untry is every I certain fact, m ported from s dear as food, in i)lantatioii!s feet high ; airj er than a man's an armor let;; winds here tu ation, without e soil. 3ne the Dntili lists of about a t of brick, uhiu !. They are ^'^^ the violence ol nder any othn anigerous. Tlit odious, crossinii L In the main de of which is liave grown to ip:reeable shade 1 is also a cani id in the conrs y are fufi»ishw ittle more tliaj in general limt and neat cmui ing, as well ai d here, and hi jose who cho(w the governniei' be value ni Hit le latter, and. ley when estate As from the ^i arden, spreailii; 't is in a vallt) 11 pentagmial. 1 ce, and is gilin iers. The trove: 1 it, other offitti' irtiuenis htre, « AND ROUND THE WORLD. 131 well as si« hundred servants: the same number of slaves are lodged in a commodi- ous building in the town, which is divided into two wards, the one for the men, the other for the women; and there is a house of correction for the rsception of dissolute persons of either sex. The hos- pital for sick seamen is of ess ntial use to the Dutch fleets in going to or return- ing from India. The church is a large edifice, elegantly plain ; but the r«iof and steeple are thatched, for the reason already mentioned. Thatching indeed, from the nature of the hurricanes, seems absolutely necessary ; but from the method in which it was formerly done, it appears that it was frequently attended with danger, and we twere informed, there used to be shelving- pent houses erected on both sides the streets, to shelter passengers in rainy weather ; but these brought the inhabitants under such gangers and inconveniencies, that they were ,«]1 pulled down by order of government. Sailors and Hottentots were continually as- ■embling, and smoking their pipes under Jhem, and sometimes, through carelessness ifet them on fire. The* government laid hold >f that occasion to rid the streets of those ilJows that were continually pestering lem, by publishing an order, which is still force, and from time to time republished, lat no Hottentot, or common sailor, shall iHnoke in the street, and that upon presum- ing so to do they should be tied to the whip- ping post and be severely lashed. This has kept the streets clear of all who have no business there ; for it is with creat dif ficulty that either the seamen or Hottentots ■can- iorbear smoking while they areav.ako, if they have tobacco, wiiicli they are seldom iWithout. What is most to be admired at |the Cape is the Company's garden, where phey have introduceinally from Persia, are of a bay or ches- nwt colour, and rather small. The dog's have a very unsightly appearance, and are of little use. Among the wild beasts, the elephant claims the first i»lace. The rhi- noceros is of a dark ash colour, and has a snout like a hog-. A horn projects about two feet from the nose, resembling- in siiape a i)lough-share, and of a grey dingy colour. With this he tears up the ground, pulls up trees by their roots, throws larja:e stones over his head, and rips up the elephant, to whom he is a mortal enemy. Another horn of about six inches long, turns up from his forehead. ' His lejrs are short, his ears small, and his sense of smelling surprisingly acate. When he scents any thing he pursues in a right line, and tears up every thing in his way ; but his eyes being exceeding small and fixed, he can only see straightforward, so that it is easy to avoid him by stepping aside, as he is a long time in turning himself about, and longer still in getting sight again of the ol)ject. He will nf)t attack a man witljout being provoked, or unless he is dressed in scarlet. When he has killed any creature, lie licks the flesh from the bones with his slough tongue, which is like a rasp. He feeds much on herbs, thistles, and a plant resembling juniper, and which, from his fondness of it, is called rlnnoceros-bush. The blood, skin, and horn of this animal, are medicinally used, and said to be very eflicacions in many divsorders. Wine, pour- ed into cups made oFthe horn, bubbles up in a strange kind of fermentation, appear- ing as if boiling. Should a small portion of poison be put into the wine, the cup splits ; but if [)oison only is poured into the cup, it flies into a thousand pieces ; hence cups made of this horn are deemed excet- S lent safeguards, and, on that account, hu]^ pendent of^ their salubrious qualities, are highly valued. At the Cape, wolves are o( two kinds ; the one resembles a sheep do^, and is spotted like a tyger; the other is like ail European wolf; they prowl about, and do great mischief in the night-time, but lie concealed in the day. Lions, tygers, leo. pards, &.C. also abound here, and are so troublesome, that the person who kills one of either sort, is rewarded with twenty-tive florins, or* fifty shillings. The flesh of tiit lion is esteemed equal to venison, and tlic fat h much valued. Here are much larfjer br.flaloe!? than in Europe. They are of 3 brown colour: the horns are short, and curve towards the neck, where they incline to each other. ' Between them is a tnft of hair upon the forehead, which adds to tiie fierceness of the look. The skin is exceed- ing hard, and the flesh rather tough. He is a strong fierce creature, and is enraged at any thing red, like many other aninrais, We saw here elks five feet high, with horiu a foot long. This is a very handsome crea- ture, having a beautiful head and neck, slender legs, and soft smooth hair of an asli colour. Their upper jaw is larger than the under, the tail about a foot in length, and the flesh by the Cape epicures is sad to exceed the best beef. They run swilil, and climb the rocks with great agiljtj, though they usually weigh about four hiin« dred pounds each. Another singular ani- mal 13 that called stink-box, from its otih sive smell both living and dead ; it is al»»iit the size of a common house dog, and made much like a ferret. The goats are of van ous snecies. One, called the blue goat, is of a fine azure colour. The spotted ml is- larger, and beautifully marked with brown, white, and red spots. 'J'he hftiii^ area foot long. The flesh fine eating. Tlie rock-goat is no larger than a kid, but verj mischievous in the plantations. The divin?- ^ goat is much like the tame one, and rereives its name from its method of squatting dnm in the grass to hide itself. We saw anolhet animal called a goat, without any additional appellation, it is of the size of a hart, and extremely beautifal> The hair of the sidei mum AND ROUND THE WORLD. i.yi cconnt, indo, ualities, are volves iiie o| a sheep dog;, ! other is like nbout, and -time, but lie ;, tygers, leo. , aiui are sn k'lio kills one li twenty-tive ; flesli of tilt ison, and the • much larger 'hey are of a re short, and re they incline 11 is a tuft ol h adds to the ikin is exceed. er tough. He d is enraged at jther aninrals, gh, with hornj andsoine crea« ead and neck, liair of an asii arger than tli( in length, and icures is sad ley run swift, great agilitj; >out four liiin' r singular ani. from its ofl'en. ad ; it is about dog, and made ts are of van 'i blue goat, is spotted ml marked with The limm le eating. Tlw kid, but verj ■is. The divitii!- le, and receives iquatting down ^e saw another any additional of a hart, and air of the sidef end back is grry, sireaked with red, and that on tlie belly white. A white streak passes from his foreliead to the ridge of his tail, and three others surround his body in circles. The female hath no horns; but those of the male are three feet in leniith, and the flesh is exceedingly delicate. The horns of the hart do not branch like those of Europe; but the roebuck is in every re- (spect like ours. Wild cats are of several lk>rts. The first the Dutch call the civit /cat, not that it is really the annnal of that jiame, but because of the line scent of the ^kin. The next is called the tyger-cat, from its being very large, and six^tted like a tyger. The third sort is the mountain cat, Svhich, as well as the tame cat resembles ]jiiose of Europe. The fourth species is de- liominated the blue cat, from its colour, Jhaving a tine blue tinge, with a beautiful ted list down its back. There is a species llf mice peculiar to this country, called the kttle-mouse, which is about the size of a juirrel, and makes a rattling noi.se with its 1)1. It is very nimble, lives upon nuts and sorns, and purs like a cat. Among the |ogs with which this cuuntrv abounds, is ^e wild hog, or rather wild boar, which is pry fierce, and harbours in woods ; and the jtrth hog, which is of a red colour, and Bthout teeth : this lodges like a badger in ^>les, and feeds upon ants; these he pro- cures by forcing his long rough tongue into ^ir hills, from whence he draws it with a great number glued thereto. Many jack- alls, some ermines, baboons, monkeys,. &c. fiire found about the Cape ; and frequently do great mischief in the gardens, orchards, and ▼ineyards. The porcupine is very common, and its flesh esteemed delicious. There are two sorts of wild asses in this country, one Sf which is a beautiful creature, called the ebra, and bears a greater affinity in make i' md shape to the horse than the ass. In- ieed the ears are somewhat like those of be latter animal, but in all other respects it lias a much more noble appearance. It is Imirably well made, exceeding lively, and extremely swift, that it throws almost ivery pursuer at a distance. Its legs are |ne; it has a twisted tail, round fleshy haunches, and a smooth skin. The feni;iles are white and black, {?nd the males wliitft and brown. These co'oursare jdaced alter- nately in the most beautiful stri])f>, and are parallel, distinct, and narrow. The whole animal is streaked in this admirable man- ner, so as to appear to a distant beholder i\% if covered with ribbons. Most iiatuialits aflirni, that the zebra never can be tamed. That which was presented to her present majesty aueen Charlotte, and kept several years at tiie stables near Buckingham-gate, continued vicious till its death, though it was brought over young, and every possi- ble means used to render it tractable : it ted upon hay, and the noise it made rather resembled the barking of a inastifl' dog, than the braying of an ass. llie camelo* pardalis, we were informed, has been found in the countries round the Cape. Capt. Carteret having, by order of his present majesty, performed a voyage round the world in the Swallow .sloop of war, men* sions this animal in a letter to the late Dr. Matty, secretary to the Royal Society. " From the scarcity of this creature (says hq) as 1 believe none have been found in Eu* rope, since Julius Ca>sar'stimc (when 1 think there were two of them at Rome) I ima- gine a more certain knowledge of its reality will not be disagreeable to you, as the ex- istence of this fine animal has been doubted by mamr. The present governor of the Cape of^Good Hope has sent out jiarties of men on inland discoveries, some of Wkiicli have been absent from eighteen months to two years, in which traverse they have dis- covered many curiosities. One of these-par- ties crossed many mountains and plains, in one of which they found two of these crea*> tures, but they only caught the young one. This they endeavoured to brin^ alive to Cane town, but unfortunately it died. They took oflf his skin, and it has, as a confirma- tion of this truth, been sent to Holland." The skin here alluded to is now in the ca-> binet of natural history at Leyden. Lin- neeus ranks this unimal among the deer kind. Its head is like thst of » .stag ; the horns are blunt, about six inches long, co- vered with hair, but not branched. The iaii 154 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS. ,1 .ite .|;l Hi neck resembles a earners, only longer, beinjr near seven teet. It has a mane like that of a horse ; feet, ears, and a tongue like those of a cow ; slender legs, the fore ones being roiisiderably longer than the hinder ; the body is but small, covered with white hair, aiur spotted with red ; the tail is^ long, and bushy at the end , the upper jaw contains no fore teeth ; he moves both the fore feet together when he runs, and not one after the other like other animals : he is eighteen feet long from the tail to the top of the head, and is sixteen feet from the ground when he holds up his head. A great variety of birds and fowls are found at the Cape, both wild and tame. Here are three sorts of eagles, namely, 1. The bone breaker, who feeds on tortoises; to obtain the Utah of which it uses this singn^ lar method. Having carried the tortoise aloft in th« air, it drops it upon some hard rock, by which means the shell is broken, and the eagle can easily come at its prey. 2. The dung-eagle, which tears out the en- trail/^ of animals to subsist on, and, though no bigger than a common goose, is exceed- ing strong and voracious. 3. The duck*eagle, so called because it feeds principally on ducks. Here are also wild geese of three sorts. 1. The water goose, which resembles ours. 2. The mountain goose, which is the largest of ^11, having a green head, and green wings. 3. The crop goose, so named from its remarkable large craw, of which bags, pockets, and tobacco-pouches are made. All these kinds of geese are such good eating, BO plentiful, and so easily taken, that tlie people of the Cape do not think the tame goose worth the trouble of breeding. But of all the numerous birds that are to be found here, the flamingo is one of the most singular. It has a long neck, and is larger than a swan : the legs are remarkably long and of an orange tawny, and the feet are like that of a goose : the bill contains blue teeth with black i)oints: the head and neck are entirely white ; the upper part of the wings are of a bright flame colour, and the lower black. Reptiles are very numerous at the Cape, particularly the following serpents, 1 . 1 he tree serpent, so called from resembling tiie branch of a tree, and from being fond of winding itself about trees. 2. The ash ca loured asp, speckled with white and red, which is several yards long. 3. The shoot serpent, so namea from the amazing velocity with which it darts itself at an enemy. Some call it the eve serpent, on account of the numerous white spots resembling eyes, with which its skin is marked. 4. The blind slowworm, a black scaly serpent, spotted with brown, widte, anes itself of the venom, turninj the milk yellow, and so is applied agaii; till by its not sticking, it proves that tlie poison is exhausted. The neighbouring sea afl^ords a plentiful supply of fish to the inhabitants of the Cape. The nieat of the sea cows is miidi admired. The flying fish, which has uings like a bat, is reckoned a great deiicJKy The brown fish is as bit; as an ox, and i^ deemed good food either fresh or saltd, The bennet is near three feet long, ami weighs about seven pounds: the eyes and tail are red ; the fins yellow, and the soale« purple, with gold streaks. The meat is oh crimson colour, ^nd so remains after it is dressed; nevertheless it is delicious eatin:, The gold fish has a streak from head to tail, circles round his eyes of a gold colour; it is eighteen inches long, weighs about a pound, and its flesh of an exquisite tnstf. The bressem is found only about the Cape "W«»^led with gold; the eyes are of a bright red, and sunounded with a silver circle, and the belly is of a pale pink colour, has a shining silver tail, resembles a carp |)oth in shape and taste, and weighs about A |)ound. Of shell-fish, which are innumer- ible, there is a .singular species called Llin-kousen, which has an up(>er and under lell, thick, rough, twisted, and incrusted. [n vinegar the crust will drop ofl^, and the liell exhibits an admirable pearl colour. $ea-suns, and sea-stars, are small round shell- ishes, and receive their denominations from he great variety of prickles, which shoot rom them like rays of light. The fish called lagger has a prickly shell, and is much [readed by the people of the Cape, as a round from one of its protuberances turns a mortification, unless great care is taken prevent it. The sea-spout resembles a fiece of moss sticking fast to the rocks, t is of a green colour, emits water, and within is like a tough piece of flesh. The torptdo, or cramp-ray is a very curious fish. ,The body is circular, the skin soft, smooth ,pnd yellow, marked with large annular ?pots ; the eyes small, and the tail tapering, t isof dilferent sizes, and weighs from five o fifteen pounds. The narcotic or benumb- jni» quality of this tish was known to the ancients, and hath furnished matter of spe- ^culation to the philosophers of all ages. If n person touches it when alive, it instantly deprives him of his arm, and has the same jiffect if he touches it with a stick. Even if me treads upon it with a shoe on, it efl^ects jot only the leg, but the thigh upwards, ley who touch it with l^e feet arc sciascd 3 with a stronger palpitation, than even those who touch it with the hand : this numbness bears no resemblance to that which we feel when a nerve is a long time pressed, and the foot is said to be asleep : it rather ap- pears to be like a sudden vapour, which passing through the pores in an instant, penetrates to the very springs of life, from whence it diflTuses itself all over the body and gives real pain. The nerves are so eflfe cted, that the person struck imagines all the bones of his body, and particularly those of the limb that received the blow, are dri- driven out of joint. All this is accompanied with an universal tremor, a sickness of the stomach, a general convulsion, and a total suspension, of the faculties of the mind. In short, such is the pain, that all the force of our promises and authority could not prevail upon a seaman to unde^ go the shock a second time. It has been observed, that the powers of this fish decline with its strength, and entirely ceases when it expires. This benumbing faculty is of double use to the torpedo : first it enables it to get its prey with great facility; and secondly, it is an admirable defence against its cne« mies, as by numbing a fish of superior for(;e with its touch, it can easilv escape. The narcotic power of the torpedo is greater in the female than the male. According to Appian, it will benumb the fisherman through the whole extent of hook, line^aiicl rod. The flesh of this remarkable fish hav- ing, however, no pernicious quality, is e«ten by the people of the Cape in common with others. The air at the Cape of Good Hope is salutary in a high degree ; so that those who bring diseases from Europe generally recover health in a short time ; but the dis- eases that are brought hither from India are not so certainly cured. The weather at the Cape may be divided into two sea- .sons, namely, the wet monsoon, and the dry monsoon ; the former begins in March, and the latter in September; so that sum- mer commences at the Cape about the time that it concludes with us. The inconveni- ences of the c'imate are excessive heat io the dry season, and heavy rains, thick foga^ 156 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS. ^!i''ifll^3| I •: I ami X. W. winds in the wet season. Thun- der and lii^htnini^ are never known here but in March and September. Water seldom freezes, and when it does, the ice is but thin, and dissolves upon the least appear- ance of the sun. In the hot weather, the people are happy when the wind blows from the S. E. because it keeps otf the sea- weeds which otherwise would float to the shore, and corrupt there. The appearance of two remarkable clouds, which trequently hang' over the summits of the two moun- tains of Table-hill and Devil-hill, commonly enable the inhabitants of this country to prognosticate what weather will happen. The clouds are at Hrst small, but gradually increasing, they at length unite into one cloud, which envelops both mountains, when a terrible hurricane soon ensues. A gentleman, who resided many years at the Cape, says, " The skirts of this cloud are white, but seem much more compact than the matter of common clouds. Ihe upper parts are of a lead colour, owing to the re- fracted rays of light. No rain falls from it, but at times it discovers great humidity, when it is of a darker hue ; and the wind issuing from it is broken, raging by gusts of short continuance. In its usual state, the wind keeps up its first fury, unabated for one, two, or three, or eight days, and sioinetims a whole month. The cloud seems all llie time undiminished, though little fleecesareseen torn from the skirts from time to time, and hurried down the sides of hills, vanishing when they reach the bottom ; so that during the storm the cloud seems to be supplied with new water. When the cloud begins to brighten up, those supplies fail, and the wind proportionably abates. At length the cloud growing transparent, the wind ceases." During the continuance of the S. E. winds, the Table-valley is torn by furious whirlwinds. If they blow warm, they are generally of short duration, and in this case the cloud soon disappears; but when the wind blows cold, it is a sure sign it will last long, except an hour or two at noon, or midnight, when it seems to recover new streuifth, and afterwards renewi its .boisterous rage. Near the Cape the water of the ocean i» of a green colour, owing principally to tl,« coral shrubs, and the weed called tromba. The first while in the water, are green and soft; but when exposed to the air, thej grow hard, and change their colour to white, black, or red. The latter are ten or twelve feet in length, hollow within, and when dry, become firm and strong. They are often framed into trumpets, and the somui they produce is veny agreeable to the ear. 1 he sources ofthe rivers in this country are in the mountains: they glide over a gravelly bottoin, are clear, pleasant, and sa- lubrious; but other streams are dark, mudrJy, and unwholesome. Here are a few bracii. ish springs, whose waters medicinally used, greatly purify the blood ; and several hot baths are very eflicacious in various disor. ders; Upon the whole, the reputation of the Cape waters i" so great, that every Da. nish ship returnin r from India, is obliged to fill a large cask vvith the clear sweet wa- ter that abounds here for the use of Im Danish majesty. The soil in general about the Cape cnn- sists of a clay earth, and is so fat, thut it requires but little manuring. White and red chalk are found in abundance; the former is used by the Dutch, to whitewasli their houses, and the latter by the Hottentot women to paint their faces. Various h tuminous substances of several colours are found in Drakenstoin colony, particularly a kind of oil which trickles from the rocks, and has a verjr rank smell. With re.s|iert to minerals, silver ore has been found in some of the mountains, and also several iron mines. The Namaqua Hottentots, who are situated above three hundred miles from the cape, bring copper to trade vvitli the Dutch. When we speak of agriculture, it is to be observed, that the Europeans of the Ca|)e, and their lands, ar« implied ; for the Hot- tentots in general detest the very idea oi cultivation, and would sooner starve tljan till the ground, so greatly are they addictd to sloth and indolence. The working of the plough here is so laborious from the stifihcsB ofthe soil, thatitfiequently requires if-ii^ ^T^^ff^r the ocean i) ■lally to tli« fled truinba. •e green aixl he air, they lour to white, ;en or twelve 1, and when ;. Tliey are , id the soiiiui I to the ear. > this country glide over a asant, and sa< dark, muddy, a few brack- licinally used, d several hot various disor- reputation of liat every Da- dia, is obliged lear sweet wa- the use of liii the Cape con- iH> fat, thiit it White and Mindance; tlit to whitewasli the Hottentot Various b^ a1 colours are particularly a oin the rocks, With res|)ect >een found in also several |ia Hottentots, hundred miles to trade with ture, it is to be s of the Cape, for the Hot- le very idea ol ler starve tijan e tliey addicted Mie working ol rions from the l«ently require AND ROUND THE WORLD. 157 near twenty oxen to one plougrh. The sow mg season is in July, and the harvest about Christmas. The corn is not thrashed with a flail, but trod out by horses or oxen, on an artificial floor made of cow-dun?, straw, and water, which when mixed together ce- ment, and soon become pert'ectlynard. It is laid iu an oval form. The cattle are con- . fined by halters which run from one to the other, and the driver stands in the middle, where he exercises a lone stick to keep -them continually to a quick face. By this method half a dozen horses will do more in one day, than a dozen men can in a week. A tithe of the corn belongs to the Dutch {Company, and the rest they purchase at a price stipulated between them and the hus- 'pandmen. ^ We have already observed of the inhabi- tants of the Cape, that their number bears a j^reater proportion to the natives and stran- rrs, than those in Batavia ; and have only add, that the women are in general ,tery handsome ; they have fine clear skins, if nd a bloom of colour that indicates a purity pf constitution, and high health. They '' lake the best wives in the world, both as listresses of a family and 'mothers, and ^ere is scarcely a house that does not swarm /ith children. The common method in ^jbich strangers live here, is to lodge and ard with some of the inhabitants, many whose houses are always open for their ,;qi^ception; the rates are from five shillings •m two a day, for which all necessaries are i jfbund. Coaches may be hired at twenty- .^four shillings a day, and horses at six : but jthe country aflbrds very httle temptation to use th-am. There are no public entertain- jnents, and those that are private, all stran- Jpers of the rank of gentlcTien are always ^dmitted. i| We come now to speak of the CaflTres or ' latives of this country, none of whose habi- itions, where they retain their original cus- >ms, are within less than four days' journey ■om Cape Town : those that we saw at the Jape were all servants to Dutch farmers, irhose cattle they take care of, and are em- iloyed in other drudgery of the meanest ind. There ar« fixteeu Hottentot nations, which inhabit this southern promontory ; at least, there are so many that hold a corres^ pondence with the Dutch, though it is pre- sumed, there are many ttiore to the north* waTil. The stature of the Hottentot men is from five to six feet in height, their bodies are proportionable, and well made : they are seldom either too fat or lean and scarce ever any crooked or deformed persons amongst them, any farther than they disfigure their children themselves by flatting and break- ing the gristles of their noses, looking on a flat nose as a beauty.. Their heads as well as their eyes, are rather of the laraest: their lips are naturally thick : their hair black and short like the negroes, and they hava exceeding white teeth : and after they have taken a great deal of pains with grease and soot to darken their natural tawny coni« plexions, resemble the negroes pretty much m colour. The heads of the men are covered with grease and soot mixed together ; and ^oing without any thing else on their heads in the summer-time, the dust sticks to it, and makes them a very filthy cap, which they say cools them, and preserves their heads from the scorching heat of the sun ; and in the winter, they wear flat caps of cat-skin or lamb-skin, half dried, *.^hich they tie with a thong of the same leather under their cliin.H. The men also wear a krosse or mantle, made of sheep skins, or other skins, over their shoulders, which reaches to the middle; and, being fastened with a thong about their neck, is open before. In winter they turn the woolly or hairy sides next their backs, and in summer the other: this serves the man for his bed* at night ; and this is all the winding sheet or coflin he has when he dies. If he be a captain of a village, or chief of his nation, instead of a sheep-skin, his mantle is made of tyger-skins, wild cat- skins, or some ottier skins they set a value upon : but though these mantles reach no lower, generally than their waists, yet there are some nations who wear them as lotv as their legs, and others that have them touch the ground. A Hottentot also hangs about his neck a 158 VOYAGE TO THE SOU! H SEAS, t MB ffreasy pmich, In whicli he keeps his knife, Jiis*|)i|)eaiid tobacco, and some dahka (which intoxicates like tobacco) and a little piece of wood, burnt at botJi ends, as a charm against witchcraft. He wears also three large ivory rinp^s on his left arm, to which he fastens a haz of provision? when he travels. He carries in his right hand two sticks, the first called his kirri, which is about three feet long, and an inch thick, bnt blunt at both ends ; the other, called his rackum-stick, about a foot long, and of the same thickness, but has a sharp point, and is used as a dart, to throw at an enemy or wild beast ; which he seldom misses, if he be within distance. In his left hand he has another stick, aoont a fool long, to which is fastened the tail of a fox or wild cat ; and this serves him as a liandkerohief to wipe off the sweat. They wear a kind of sandals also, made of the raw hide of an ox or elephant, when they are obliged to trnvel through stony countries; and sometimes have buskins, to preserve (heir legs from bushes and briars ; but ordi- narily their legs and thighs have no covering. The women wear caps, the crowns where- <}f are a little raised ; and these are made of half dried skins, and tied under their chins. They scarce ever put them off night or day, winter or summer. They usually wear two krosses or mantles, one upon another, and, as these are only fastened with a thong, about their necks, they a|>pear naked down to the middle : but they have an apron, larger than that of the men to cover them before, and another of still larger dimen- sions tfcat cover their hind parts. About their legs they wra|) thongs of half dried skins, to the thickness of a, jack-boot, which are such a load to them, that they lift up their legs with difficulty, and walk very much like a troofier in jack-boots : this serves both for distinction of their sex, and for ornament. But this is not all their fine- ry : if they are people of any figure, instead of a sheep skin, they wear a tyger skin, or a mantle of wild cat skin. They have also a pouch hanging alwut their necks, in which *hey carry something to eat, whether they are at home or abroad, with their dahka, to- bacco, and pipe. But the principal orna- ments both of men and women are brass or ^lass beads, with little thin plates of glitter, ing brass and mother of pearl, which thty wear in their hair, or about their ears, (jf these glass or brass beads strung, they also inalfLe necklaces, bracelets for the arms, and girdles, wearing several strings of them about their necks, waists, and arms, chosing the smallest beads for their necks: those arc fine.st that have most strings of them, and their ar.iia are sometimes covered with brace. lets from the wrist to the elbow. The larger beads are on the strings about the middle : jn these they affect a variety of colours, all m whiVh the Dutch furnish them with, and take their cattle in return. There is anotlier kind of ornament peculiar to the men, and that j;, the bladder of any wild beast they have kill' ed, which is blown up, and fastened to tlit hair as a trophy of their valour. Both sexei powder themselves with a du.st they call ba. chu ; a. the women spot their faces will) a red earth or stone (as ours do with blaci patche.s) which is thought to add to theii hi auty, by the natives ; but, in the eyes ol Europeans, renders them more frightful and shocliing than they are naturally. But ai part of their dress, we ought to have men- tioned, in the first place, the custom ol daubing their bodies, and the inside of tiieii caps and mantles, with (|:rease and soot Soon after their children are born, theylaj them in the sun, or by the fire, and nil them over with fat or butter, mixed witi s3ot, to render them of a deeper black, itii said ; for they are naturally tawny ; and this they continue to do almost every daynl their lives, after they are grown up, not only to increace their beauty, but to render llieii limbs supple and pliable. As some nations pour oil upon their heads and bodies, so these people make use of melted fat ; you cannot make them a more acceptable pre- sent than the fat or scum of the pot that meat is boiled in. to anoint themselves. Nor are the Hottentots more clf>anlyiii their diet than in their dress : for they choose the guts and entrails of cattle and of some wild beasts (with very little cleansing,) ra- ther than the rest of the flesh, and eat theii meat half boiled or broiled: but tb«ii I are brass o? tes of elitter- , which thiy leir ears. ()[ ing, they also the arms, and ofthcin about , chosing tile ts : those arf of them, and ed with brace. r. The largesf the middle : ji) colours, allot with, and take s another kind m, and thati$, they have kill- 'astened to the r. Both sexe! st they call ba leir faces witk do with blatli to add to theii in the eyes ol re frightful and irally. But ai t to have men- the custom ol inside of llieii ease and soot born, they la fire, and rii , mixed witli per black, iti( tawny ; anil st every dayol vn up, not only to render Iheit s some nations jnd bodies, so elted fat; you acceptable pre- the pot thai emselves. lore cleanly in for they choose e and of some cleansing,) ra- , and eat theit ed: but AND ROUND THE WORLD. 159 principal food consists of roots, herbs, fruits, or milk : they seldom kill any of those cattle, ontessat a festival ; they only feed on such as die of themselves, either of diseases or old age, or on what they take in hunting ; and when they are hard put to it, they will eat the raw leather that is wound •bout the women's legs, and even soles ot ihoes; and as their mantles are always well stocked with lice of an unusual size, they are not ashamed to sit down in the public streets at the cape, pull otf the lice, and eat them. And we ought to have re- membered, that they boil their meat in the blood of beasts when they have any of it. They rather devour their meat than eat it, pulling it to pieces with their teeth and Oandsi discovering a canine appetite and ierceness: they abstain, however, from iwines' flesh, and some other kinds of meat, ind from fish that have no scales, as religi- •usly as ever the Jews did. And here it 'IDay not be improper to say something of flie iniiiiagement of their milk and butter : ^ley never strain their milk, but drink it with all the hairs and nastiness with which i is mixed in the milking by the Hottentot Somen. When they make butter of it, ley put it into some skin made in the form of a soldier's knapsack, the hairy side in- wards ; and then two of them taking hold trif it, one at each end, they whirl and tnrn it round till it is converted into butter, which they put up for anointing themselves, their caps and jnantles with, for they eat no butter ; and the rest they sell to the Dutch, without clearing it from the hairs and dirt U contracts in the knapsack. The Hollan- ders, when they have it indeed, endeavour |o separate the nastiness from it, and sell it the shipping, that arrives there, frequent- r for butter of their own making ; and sme they eat themselves (but surely none nut a Dutchman could eat Hottentot but- ler) and the dregs and dirt that is lelt they ive to their slaves ; which having been >und to create diseases, the governor of the ipe sometimes prohibits their giving their nves thisstutfby publio edict; which is ot, however, much regarded. The butter- iiik, without any manner of cleaning or 7 straining, the Hottentots drink themselves: giving what they have to spare to their lanibs and calves. Their usual drink is cow's milk or water, and the women sometimes drink ewe's milk ; but this the men never touch : and it is observed, that the women are never sufiered to eat with the men, or come near them, during the time of the messes. Since the arrival of the Dutch among them, it appears that the Hottentots are very fond of I wine, brandy, and other spi- rituous liquors : these, and the baubles al- ready t:ientioned, the Hollanders truck for their cattle ; and though a Hottentot will turn the spit for a Dutchman half a day for a draught o*r two of sour wine, yet do the> never attempt to plant vineyards (as they see the Dutch often do) or think of making wine themselves. We shall proceed, in the next place, to give an account of their towns and houses or rather, their camps and tents. Like the Tartars and Arabs, they re- move their dwellings frequently for the conveniency of water and fresh pastui-e: they encamp in a circle formed by twenty or thirty tents, and sometimes twice the number, contiguous to each other ; within the area whereof they keep their lesser cattle in the night, and the larger on the outside of their camp : their tents, or, as some call them, houses, are made with slen- der poles, bent like an arch, and covered with mats or skins, and sometimes both : they are of an oval figure, the middle of the tent being about the height of a man, and decreasing graduallv (the poles being short- er) towards each end, the lowest arch, which is the door or entrance, being about three feet high, as is the opposite arch at the o'^her end ; the longest diameter of the tent being about twelve or fourteen feet, and the short- est ten ; andin the middle of the tent is a shal- low hole about a yard in diameter, in which they make their fire, and round which the whole family, c«msisting of nine or ten peo- ple of all ages and sexes, sit or lie iiisrlit and day in such a smoke (when it is cold, or they are dressinu: of victuals) that it is impossiiile for an European tobear it, there being iis-ta I ly no vent for the smoke but the door, thouub \* t-i ■l 1-.H m I it ''■' 1.3 160 VOVAGK TO THE SOUTH SEAS, some have seen a liole in tlie top of some of tiieir huts, to let out the sinoke, itiut give them iiaht. Sucli a eiide of tents or huts as liavebeen tle.scribeeuns a tonn or village ; but seems to be more piojieily a can»p: for a town consists of nioie substantial builiiin^s, and is seliloni capahleof being' removed from one place to another; whereas these d\vellin(;s consist of itothini; more than small tent-[ioIes, covered with skins or mats, which art? moveable, and carried away upon their bi^gu^a^e oxen when- ever they remove with tlieir herds to a distant pasture. As to the furniture of their tents; triey consist of little more than their mantles which they lie on, some other skins of wild beasts they have killed or purchas- ed, an earthen pot they boil their meat in, their arms, and periiaps some othei' trivial utensils. The only domestic animals they keep, are dogs, as ugly in their kind as tlieir masters, but exceedini? useful to them in driving and defending their cattle. The Hottentots are agreed by all to be the laziest generation under the' sun : they will rather starve, or eat dried skins, or shoe' soles at home, than hunt for their food ; and yet, when they apply themselves to the chace, or any other exercise, no }>eoi>le are more active and dexterous than the Hotten- tots ; «nd they serve tlie Euro|>eans often with the greatest fidelity and application when they contract to serve thera for wages : they are also very generous and liospit^bie ; they will scarce eat a piece of venison, or a dish of tish they have catched, or drink their beloved drams ahme, but call in their nei'^hboiirs to partake with them as far as it will go. Concerning their government, people agree, that every nation has its king or chief, called konquer, whose authority devolves upon him by hereditary succession ; and that they do not pretend to elect their re- spective sovereigns. That this chief has the power of making peace and war, and pre- sides in all their councils and courts of jus- tice: but then his authority is said to be limited ; and that he can determine nothing without the consent ot* the captains of the several kraals, mIio seem to be the Hotteii», tot senate. The captain of every kraal, whose otHce is hereditary also, is their leader in time of war, and chief magistrate of hiii krual in time of i)eace ; and, with the lieud of every liimily, determines all civil and ciiininal causes within the kraal ; only sucli ditiereucesus happen between one kraal and another, niid mutters of state are determined by the king and .senate. The Dutch, sinr« their arrival ut the cajie, have presented tlit king, or chief of every nation ol'the Hotten- tots in alliance with them, with a brasj crown ; and the captains of each kraal with a brass-headed cane, which are now tli« badges of their respective offices; fornitirl; thev were distinguished only by liner skins, and a greater variety of beads and glittering triiles. In their councils their king sits on his heels in the centre, and the captains o| tlie kraals sit in like manner round about him. At his acce.s.sion, it is said, iie proiiiisei to observe their national cii-stoms ; and givtu them an entertainment, killing an ox, and two or three sheep, u|>on the occasion ; on which he feasts his captains, but their wivei are only entertained with the broth ; but then the next day, we are told, her Hotten* tot majesty treats the ladies, and their hus. bands are put off in like manner with the soup. Ihe captain of each kraal also, at his accession, engages to observe the customs ol his kraal, and makes an entertainment k the men, as his lady does the next day tor the women ; and, though these ueople shew their chiefs great respect, they allow iieitlief their king or inferior magistrates any reve- nue ; they subsist, as other families do, upon their stock of cattle, and what lliej take in hunting. Having no notion of writing, or letters, they can have no written laws ; but tiieie are Momtf ancient customs, from which tiie; scarce ever deviate. Murder, adultery and robbery, they constantly punish with death; and, ifa person is siis})ected of any of tliett crimes, the whole kraal join in seizing and securing him ; but the guiltv person sonie< times makes his escape to the mountains, wiiere robbers and criminals like hinuci m AND ROUND TiJE WORLD ICl the Uotteiw every kraal, s their leader istrate of hi) nth the heud ill civil and il ; only sutii une kruul and re deteruiiiied Dutch, sinct presented tli( tt'the Hottei). with a brass ch kraul with are now tht ices ; foriiierlji by liner skins, and glittering r king $its un he captains ol r round about id. he promise) )ins ; and givej nff an ox, and e occasion ; on [but their wiva le broth ; but d, her Hotten< and their hus. inner with the 111 alsOi at liii the customs ol ertainment foi next day to; se i)eo])le sliew allow neither ates any reve- families do, and what lliej ting, or letters iws ; but theit 'om which ttie; !r, adultery and ish with death; of any oftheN in iieizing and person som ..jC mountains, Is liLe himself I •ecnre themselves from instire, and fre- quently plunder the neighbouring country ; tor no other kra;il or nution of Hottentots will entertain a stranger, unless he is known to them, and can give a good reason for leav- ing his own kraal. If the offender is appre- hended, the captain assembles the people of his kraal in a day or two ; who, maknig a ring, and siltinis- down upon their heels, the criminal is ])laced in the centre of them : the witnesses on both sides are heard, and the party suffered to make his defence : after which, the case being considered, the cap- tain collects the suffrages of thejudges ; and if a majority condemn him, the prisoner is ;' executed on the spot. The captain first , strikes him with a truncheon he carries in }h;s hand, and then the rest of the judges '^fall upon him and drub him to death : then jivrapping up the corpse in his krosse or ^antle, it is carried to some place distant vom the kraal, where they bury it. In civil cases also, the cause is determined oy a ma- jority of voices, and satisfaction immediately ordered to the injured person, out of- the l^oods of che person that appears to be in the wrong. There is no appeal to any other .f^urt: the king and his council, consisting ?f the captains of the kraals, never interpose uless in matters that concern the public, IM* where the kraals are at variance. To whici) we may add, that the Hottentot's cattle and personal estate descend to his •Idest son : he cannot disinherit him, or g've his effects to his other children : but, as r property in lands, or any certain real estate, no man has any -, the whole country is but one common, where they feed their cattle promiscuously, moving from place to |>lace, to find water or fresh pasture as neces- sity requires. Even the several nations have lio stated bounds; but use such tracts of land as their ancestors «lid before them ; it .^ true, their respective limit sometimes cre- j|te great differences between the several Rations, and occasion bloody wars ; which brings us now to treat of their arms, and the Irts and stratagems they use in war. The arms of a Hottentot are, 1. His lance th'icU resembles a half-pike, sometimes irovvn, and used as a missive weapon ; and others, serves to push with in close fiijht, the head or spear whereof is poisoned. 2. His bow and arrows, the arrows bearded and poisoned likewise, when they engage an ene- my or wild beast they do not intend for fo4»d.. Their bows are made of iron, or olive-wood ; the string of the sinews or guts of some ani- mal : the quiver is a long narrow case, made of the skin of un elephant, elk, or ok, an«l slung at their backs.'as soldiers sling their knapsacks. S. A dart of a foot long, which they throw exceedisigr true, scarce ever mis- sing the mark they aim at, though it is not above the breadth of half a crown : these also are poisoned, when they engage an ene- my or a wild beast that is not to be eate;i : and lastly, when they have spent the rest of their missive weapons, iiey have recourse to stones, seldom making a discharge in vain ; and, what is most remarkable in their shoot ing or throwing arrows, darts, or stones, they never stand still, but are all the while skip- ping and jumping from one side to the other possibly to avoid the stones and darts of the enemy. They are all foot, and never engage on horseback; but have disciplined bulls or oxen taught to run upon the t:nemy, and to toss and disorder them ; which these crea- tures will do with the utmost fury on iheword of command, not regarding the weapons that are thrown at them • for though the Hotten- tots have numbers oflarge elephants in their country, they huve not yet learned the art oftamingthem,ortrainingthemup to war, as the military men in theEast Indies do. Every able bodied man is a soldier, and possessed of a set of such arms as has beep described; and on the summons of his prince, appears at the rendezvous with all imaginable alacrity and contempt ofdanger, and every man maintains himself while the expedition lasts. As their officers, civil and military, have no pay, se neitherdothe private men expect any ; a sense of honour, and the public good, are the sole motives for hazarding their lives in their country's service. The Hottentots, in war,have very little con- ception of discipline, nor indeed is it possible they should ; tor the only method of raising an army, is for the kraal captains to order the people to follow them ; the only method of maintaining one is by hunting as they mar'vs lii-^. |)articular captain, the chief of his kraal: they observe httle order; neither do fiiey take the precaution of throwing up tren- ches todcfcntl themselves : and what is still more surprising, have no shields to defend themselves aiiainst missive weapons, thotigh sonn,' say they will ward ott'a dart, and even a stone, with a little truncheon about a foot long, \\hich they carry in thfu- hand. The several coinpanies advance to the charge at the couimand of their chief; and, when those in the front hare shut one flight of arrows, 2 they retreat and n.ake room for those in f!;^ rear; and when they have discharged, ihti former advance a^ain, and thus alternpwK they continue till they have spent all tliejf missive weapons, and then they have re- course to stones unless they are tirs* bntkin and dispersed by a trooj) of bulls ; Jor tlic wise chiefs and generals of each side, uc cording to the European practice, remaining' on an eminence in the rear, to obse.'ve tl)o fortune of the day, when they observe tJuii people are hard pressed, give the word oj command to their corps de reserve of bulls, w ho break into the body of ihe enemy, am! generally bring all into confusion; and thai side that preserves their order best, on thi< furious attack of these bulls of Basan, ait sure to be victorious. The skillofthe general seems to be chiefly in managing his liuils; who never engage each other, but spend their whole rage upon the men, who have.ii seems, no dogs of English breed to piay against them, or this stratagem would be o( little service : but we should have observed, that as the battle always begins with horrid cries and ijoise, which perhaps supplies tlit place of drunjs and trumpets ; so the victory insult with no less noise over the conrpicred enemy, killing all that fall into their hautls but they seldom fight more than one hattif, some neigh bourinf:;: power usually inter posing to make up the quarrel, and of Intt the Dutch perform this good office, lietweci such nations as lie near their settlenuiii. Fromtheir wars with each other, we natunlli proceed to their wars >\ ith wild hea^its, wii which their country abounds more than m other ; these pertple, it seems, esteeu) it much greater honour to have killed one fhc-e foes to mankind, than an enemy u their own species. Instances are not wanting of a Hottentofi engaging sinirly with the fiercest wild lieii and killing them ; but usually the wl;.! kraal or village assemble, when a wild i)t;i" is discovered in tfieir neighbourhood, aiiJ, dividing themselves in small parties, eiidea vour to surround him. Having found tlieir enemy, they usually set up a great cry. iil which the frighted aninuii endeavoniN In break through and escape them : if it provt .0. ■I AND ROUND THE WORLD. 163 r lliose ill t};^ ■icharged, tliti IS alternewlj )ent all thvii liey have re- re tirs^ hr of Basan, ait 11 of the general ing his bulls ; itr, but spend 1, who have.il breed to piay m would beoi have observed, ins with horrid )S supplies tlif ; so the victo" the conquered to their haiuls jan one battle, usnally inter. el, and of Intt ortice, betweo" eir settlrnieii!, er, we natiinill; ild beasts, witi more lliau am IS, esteem it e killed one r an enemy u of a Hottentot^ est wild lHi\^ btturhood, anil, parties, eiutea mg fbnnd tlieit I great cryal endeavt»i\i> ti' lem : if it pfJ" to be a rhinoeeros, an «Tk, or elephant, they throw their lances at him, darts and arrows being too weak to pierce through their thick hides : if the beaxt he not killed at the first discharge, they repeat the attack, and load him with their spears ; and, as he runs with all his rage at the |>ersons who wound him, those in his rear follow him close, and ply him with their sjiears; on whom he turns niiain, but is overpowered by liis enemies, who constantly return to the charge, when his back is towards them, and scarce ever fail of bringing the creature down, before he has taken his revenge on any of them. ; low haz- ardous soever such an engagement may appear to an European, these people make it their s])ort ; and hove this advant.'ige, that ihey are exceeding swift of foot, and scarce ,ever miss the mark they aim at with their 45pears : if one of them is hard pressed !,y the ■brute, he is sure toberelieveci i)y his compa- iilons, who never quit the iield till the beast (is killed, or makes his escape : though they Rouietimes dexterously avoid the adversary, they immediately return to the charge, sub- til uing the hercest either by stratage:n or !force. When attacking a lion, or a tyger, .their darts and arrows are of service to them ; ^lul therefore they begin the engagement at |l greater distance, than when they charge an i«lei»hant or rhinoceros ; and the creature has • wood c ' irts and arrows 'ij)on his liack, before he an approach his enemies which jnake him fret and rage and fly at ..;em w ith the greatest fury ; but those he attacks, nim- bly avoid his paws, while others pursue hiiu, and finish the conquest with their spears Sometimes a lion takes to his heels, with abimdance of |toisoned darts and arrows in his flesh : but, Jie poison beginning to ope- rate, he soon falls, and becomes a prey fn those he would have preyed upon. The ele- phant, the rhinoceros, and the elk, are fre- quently taken >n tra|)s and pitfalls without any manner of hazards. The elephants are observed to go in great companies to wafer following in utile one after another, uml u^u ally take the same road till tliey are dis- tmlu'd ; the Hottentots therefore dig pits in . th( ir pill lis, ?ibout eight feet deep, and four ^4and five ovtr ; in \vhich they fix sharp slakes pointed with iron, and then cover the ])it with small sticks and turf, .so as it is not discernable : and as these animals usually keep ill one track frequently one or other of them falls in with his fore feet into ihe i)it, and the stakes pierce his body ; ihe more he strugtrles, the deeper the weight of his monstrous bon him. not siitierir.u the least dust to be lo<.i After which the neitthlMuirs having severally roufxratulatejl |iim cm his advancement to the high honour, they disptrs*', and go fw TO i 164 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH' SEAS, their respective tents. The conqueror, after- wards, fastens the bladder of the furious beast he has killed to his hair, which he eVer after weais as a badge of his knighthood ; anu offish; but this is not often ? and if he is of any handicraft trade, he may work at it two or three hours in a week, and instruct his chil- dren in the art. He also takes upon him to sell his cattle, and purchase tobacco, and strong liquors of the Dutch, with necessary tools, beads and other ornaments for which t!ie Hottentots barter away their cattle: their wives are not permitted to intermeddle in the business of buying and selling, this being the sole prerogative of the man. When a W(»man brings a living son into the world, there is great rejoicing ; but the first thing they do with the child, is to daub it all over with cow-dung; then they lay it before the fire, or in tijcsun, till the dung is dried, at'!er which they rub it off, and wash the riiild with the juice of certain herbs, laying it in the sun, or before the fire again, till the liquor is dried in, after which they anoint the child fVom head to foot with butter, or sheeps fat melted, which is dried in as the juice was; and this custom of anointing llicir bixlies with fat, they retain afterwards as !<; as they live. After the child has been thus smeared and greased, the mother gives it what name she thinks proper, which is usually the name of some wild beast, or domestic animal. When the wonian is well again, and able to leave her hut, she nd)S herself all over with cow-dring ; and this filthy daubing is by these delicate people termed a purifieahon. Heinii thu«! delight- fully perfumed, and elegantlv decorated with sheepsV guts, she is permitted to go abroad, or tr f,ee company at home. If the woman has twins, and they are girls, the »iii n proposes it lo the kraal, that he may expose one of them, either upon pre- teuce of poverty, or that his wife lias not milk for them both ; and this they usually indulge one another iu: they do the same when they have a boy or girl ; but always preserve the boys, though they happen to have two at a birth. The exposed child is carried to a distance from the kraal ; and it tiiey can find a cave or hole in the earth, th;Vi soinewild beast has made, they put the child alive inio it ; and then having stopped iij) the mouth of the den with st6nes or eart]), leave it there to starve : if they cannot meet such a cavity, they tie the infant to llie lower bough of a tree, or leave it in some thicket of bushes, where it is frequently de- stroyed by wild beasts. They do not deal thus, howe\?r, as has been observed, liy their male children : on the birth of a boy, they kill a bullock ; and if they have twins, two bullocks ; and make an entertainment for all the neighbourhood, who congratulate the parents on their good fortune ; and, as witn us, the greatest rtyoicings are on the birth of the first son. The males, at about ten years of age, are always deprived of their left testicle ; tix operation is performed with a dexterity tliat would surprise an European surgeon, and bad consequences are seldom or never known to ensue. A aheep is killed, and great rejoicings are made upon the occasion; but it is to be observed, that the men devour all the meat, and allow the women notliini: but the broth. The reason of this ahsurd custom of mutilating their male youth isniv known ', some of the Hottentots say, it is to make them run .swifli ; but the greate.M ;)art of these people give their general eiison which they use upon all occasions, \vl ,. they are unable to account fur any of t'lf^ir absurd practices ; namely, That it is tlie Hottentot custom ; and has been practiM I by their ancestors time immemorial. M the au:e of eigliteen, the male "H(»l(eiitiit soon have a beard, and many chil- dren ; till it is universally allowed he is a useful man to the nation. A feast concludes the ceremony ; but the youth himself is not Iiermitted to particifiate of any part thereof till all the rest are served. Having been thus admitted into male society, it isexpect- ed thiit he should behave ill to women in general, and to his mother in jiarticular, in order to evince his contempt of every thing femenine. Indeed it is usual tor a youth as soon as ad'iiitted, to go to his mother's hut, and cudgel her hearlily, for which he is highly applauded by the whole kraal ; and f even the sutfering parent herself admires him for his spirit, and protests that the blows do iif)t give her so much pain, as the thoughts of having brought such a Uiettlesome son into the world alford her pleasure. The more ill treatment he gives his mother, the more esteem he obtains: and every time he strikes her she is in the highest raptures, and Mianks providence for having blessed her with such a spirited child. So egregiously will custom comiteract the very dictates of mature, and impose upon t'u; understanding of the ignorant. It may be (iropernow to say somethiuur of those oJiicersMinongst them, whi(;h the Eu- ropeans generally denominate tlieir priests. i Tiiese persons are called fiirri or master, and I ure elected by every kraal : they are the men f who perform there remony of making water " ct ihcir weddings, and other festivals; the furri also is the person who extracts the letl testicle from the young males at eight years of age ; for all which he has no stated reve- nue, but a present no v and then of a calf or a lamb, ami make? 'Ut at all their entert:un- ments. Every kra>^^ also has its physician, as well as its prie who ire persons that have some skill ii physic and surgery, and particularly in 1 le virtues of salutary herbs ; these also are c'losen by a majority of voices and make it tl' jir business to look after the people's healtl : but have no other reward neither for th'^ir pains, than voluntary pre- sents. And s ich is the opinion of the Hot- tentots of V • physicians, that if they can- not effect a cure, they conclude they are certainly bewitched ; as the doctor himself also never fails to give out : whereupon application is made to some pretended con- ji r for relief: and if the patient happens to recover, it gives the cunning man, as we call him, a mighty reputation. The nhy* sician and surgeon, as has been hinted, is the same person ; and though these gentle- men scarce ever saw a body dissected, it is said, they have pretty good notions of ana- tomy : they cup, bleed, make amputations, and restore dislocated limbs with great dex- terity : cholicks and pains in the stomach they relieve by cupping. Their cup is an horn of an ox, the edges cut very smooth : the doctor, having sucked the part where the pain lies, claps on the cup : and after it has remained son time, till he tiiiidvs the part is insensible, he pulls off the horn-cnj), and makes two or three incision^,, half an inch in length, with a common knife, hav- ving no other instrument: after which, he applies the cup again, w hich falls off w hen it is full of blood, but the patient, it is saul, suffers great pain hi the operation. If the pain removes to .iuother part, they rub i( with hot fat; and, if that does not ease the pain, they use the cup again on the part last If cted ; ami, it' the secon tertamment, all the neighbourhood^come and take a formal leave of the old wretch, thus condemned to be starved or devoured by wild beasts : then the unfortunate crea. tare is laid upon one of their carriage oxen, and carried to his last home, attended to the place, where he is to be buried alive by most of his neighbours. The old man heiiii; taken down, and set in the middle of the hut provided for him, the company return to their kraal, and he never sees the face of a human creature afterwards; they never so much as inquire whether he was starved to death, or devoured by wild beasts : he is no more thought of, than if he had never been. In the same manner they deal with a super- annuated mother; only as she has nothing she can call her own, she has not the trouble of assigning her effects to her' son. When- ever the Hottentots are upbraided with this unparallelled piece of baroarity, they reply, it would be a much greater cruelty to suffer an old creature to languish out a miserable life, and to be many years a dying, than to make this quick dispatch with them : and that it is out of their extreme tenderness they put an end to the lives of these old wretches; all the arguments iu the worUl a^^ainst Ik ( I of I CO I ^.be ngs, wlu'n ;; and yet r guilty «)f s, as well when the fectly use- oblii?ed to and every » his eldest s next heir s a tent or a ffood (lis- belonKs to ; uftlie kraal >n of his su. ;s their con- ant hut; to se their con« ippointed to ry tent, the three sheep, feast and be d of the en> nhoodt„coine old wretch, or devoured ptunate crea. arringe oxen, ended to the iliveby most man heini} jleofthe hut ny return to he face of a »ey never so js starved to its: !«e is no never been. with a super- has nothing }t the trouble son. Wlien- led with this y,they reply, lelty to suffer t a miserable ^inff, than to h them : and nderness tliey old wretches; ti a^^ainst tlu AND ROUND THE WORLD. ICO inluimnnity of the custom, can make no iiupressiou on them ; and, indeed as lon^ as the Dutch have resided at the cape, they have not been able to break thern of one «inprle custom, or i)revail with them to alter any part of their conduct, how barbarous or absurd soever : and, it seems the captain ot a kraal is not exempted from seeim? his fu- neral solemnized in this manner, while he is alive, if he happens to become useless. And this leads us to treat of such funerals as are solemnized after the person is really dead. The sick man, having resigned his breath, is immediately bundled up, neck and heels toi^ether, in his sheep-skin mantle, exceeding close, so that no part of the corpse appears : then the captain of the kraal, with some of the seniors, search the neighbouring coun- try for some cavity in a rock, or the den of a wild beast, to bury it in, never digging a grave, if they can find one of these within a moderate distance. After which the whole kriial, men and women, prepare to attend the corpse, seldom permitting it to remain above ground more than six hours. When all things are ready, all the neighbonrhood assemble before the door of the deceased, the men sitting down on their heels in one circle, and resting their elbows on their knees (their usual posture) as the women do i;i another: here they clap their hands, and howl, crying. Bo, bo, bo! (that is father) lamenting their loss. The corpse being then brought out on that side the tent, where the person died, and not at the door, the bearers carry him in their arms to the grave, the men an topics are in- troduced, he generally conceals his senti- ments in silence. S«Mne on this account have doubted whether the Hottentots have any religion at all : but the most intelligent among the Dutch at the Cape jiositively alHrm, that they believe in a Supreme Be- ing, whom they stile (jJounya 'laquoa, or God of gods, and fancy that his place of re- sidence is lieyond the moon. They allow that Ciounya Taquoa is a humane, benevo- lent beiii'j:, yet tiiey have no mode of wor- shippiii'i- him ; for which they give this rea- son, "That he cursed their first parents for having greatly offended him, on w hicli ac- count their jiosterity have never from that 170 rOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA«\ i tiint f);ii(] liiiu adoration." They believe that the iiiooii is iiii iuterior visible God, and the repiestntalive of the hij?h and invisible: that she has the direction of the weather; and therefore they pray to her wiien it is nnseasoiiabh\ They never fail to assemble antl worship this planet at tlie new and full moon, let the weather be never so bad ; and thouyh they distort t'leir bodies, grin and put (»n very frightful looks, eryintr and how- I'uVf^ in a terrible manner, yet they have some expressions that shew their veneration and t/ependance on this inferior deity ; as, " Mut- sch'i At^e, I salute you ; yon are welcome : (.'heraqua kaka ohori Ounqua. grant ns pas- ture for our cattle and plenty of milk." These and other prayers to the moon they repeat, frequently dancing and clapping their hands all the while ; and, at the end of every dance, crying, Ho, ho, ho, ho ! rais- ing and falling their voices, and using abun- dance of odd gestures, that appear ridicu- lous to European spectators ; and which no doubt, made them at tirst, before they knew any thing of then* language, conchule, that this could not be the ett'ect of devotion, especially when the people themselves told them, it was not an act of religion, but only intended for their diversion. They continue thus shouting» singing and dancing, with prostrations on the earth, the whole night, and even part of the next day, with some short intervals, never resting, unless they are quite spent with the violence of the action ; and then they squat down upon their heels, holding their heads between their hands, and resting their elbows on their knees ; and after a little time, they start up again, and falling to singing and danc- ing in a circle as before, with all their might. The Hottentots also adore a fly about the bigness of a hornet, called l)y some the gold beetle: whenever they see this insect p- proach their kraal, they all assemble alj t it, and sing and dance round it while it i mains there, strewing over it the powder of buchu, by botanists called spiraem : which when it is dried and pulverized, they always powder tberasel ves with it at festivals. They strew the same i>owder also over (he tops ol their tents, and over the whole area oJ tl)(» kraal, as a testin>i>n> of their veneralion fur the adored fiy. They sacriOce also tuo sheep as a thankstiiving for the favour shevt n their kraal, believing they shall certainly prosper after suu a tent, they loi,!; upon the owner of it for the future as a saint, and |)ay him more than usual resjM'ct. The best ox of the kraal also is immediately sa, criticed, to testify their gratitude to the littlfl winged deity, and to honour the saint Iiq has been pleased thus to distinguish : to whom the entrails of the beast, the choict^st morsel in their opinion, with the fat and tlie caul is presented ; and the caul being twist- ed like a ro|)e, the saint ever after wears it like a collar about his neck day and niglit, till it putrities and rots off; and the saint only leasts upon the entrails of the beast, while the rest of the kraal feed upon the joints, that are not in so high esteem amon;j them: with the fat of the sacri (ice also the saint anoints his body from time to time, till it is all spent ; and if the hy lights upon a woman she is no less reverenced by the neighbourhood, and entitled to the like pri. vileges. It is scarce possd)le to express the agonies the Hottentots are in, if any Eura |»ean attemftts to take or kill one of these insects, as the Dutch will sometimes seem to attempt, to put them in a fright : they will beg and pray, and fall prostrate on the ground, to procure the liberty of this little creature, if it falls into a Dutchman's hands; they are, on such an occasion, in no less con, sternation than the Indians near Fort St, George, when the kite, with a white head, which they worship, is in danger. If a sol- dier takes one of these alive, and threatens to wring the neck of it off, the Indians will gather in crowds about him, and immedi- ately collect the value of a f^hilling or two, to purchase the liberty of the captive hiid they adore. But to return to the Hottentuts, they imagine if this little deity should he killed, all the cattle w«»uid die of ieces, and stew them in the blood, which is the Hot- tentots favourite dish. An ox also is killed in the same barbarous manner; being thrown upon his back, and Ill's legs extend- ed with cords, he is ripped up, and his guts taken out first ; in which cruel operation the beast is half an hour a dying: they se- parate the parts with great exactness, tlivid- \)ng the flesh, the bones, the membranes, muscles, veins, and arteries, and laying tlicm in several parcels every thing entire. The bones also are taken out of the ilesh, ami laid together in such order, that they miiiht 5e easily .for(ned into an exact skelt{(»ii : ihese tliey Ijoil by themselves, and get the ;aiarrow out of them, with which they anoint their liodies. Of the sheef) skin, as has been observed already, they make a mantle -'fit be large : but if it is small, they cut it into thongs, to adorn their women's legs: and the hide of an ox serves either to cover their tents, or to make girts and straps ot', with which tiiey bind their baguaa;e on their carriage oxei, when they decamp ; and, if liicy iiave no other ujie for tlieir ox-hides. they lay tin in by, and cat them when tlity want other li.od. 'i'liey have another artificer, wlio is l)otl^ felinonger and taylor; that is, he dressc, skins atter their way, and thru makes tliein into maiilles, he takes a sheepskin just tliiy, e«l oft", and, rubbing it well with fat," the slim becomes tough and smooth ; and if it be lor one of his countrymen, he rubs it over also with fresh cow-dung, and lays it in the sun till it is dry: then he rubs it with fat im{ cow dung again ; which he repeats several times, till it becomes perfectly black, and stinks so, that no European can bear it ; and then, with a little shaping and sewing, it n a complete mantle tor a Hottentot; but, i( it be dressed for a Dutchman, he only rnb^ the skin well with fat, which secures the wool from coming off. If he lie to dress an ox's hide, he rubs the hairy side with vviiiid ashes ; then sprinkling it with water, rolls it up, and lays it a day or two in the sun; which expedients effectually bring off the hair; this is then well greased, stretched onf, and dried again, when it is deemed 'j;oo^ leather. Their smiths (\o not only fashion tlitir iron, but melt it from the ore: they lind plenty of iron stones in several parts of their country ; and liaving got a heap of these, they j)ut them into a hole in the groiimi. lieateo is botlr is, lie dressen makes tlieiu ;kinjiist Hiiy. I tat, the skin lid if it be liir )s it over also it in the sun with fat 1111(1 peats several ^ black, and bear it ; and sewing, it w mtot; but, i( he only nibs li seen res the le to dress an le with Wood II water, rolls in the sun; bring ot}" tlie stretched ont, deemed 'j^mi fashion tlitir e: they jind parts ot" their eap of these, the ground, nirpose ; then ?s, which they till the iron another hole, siver, a little s the iron in k it to pieces pieces again :h stones, till ids of lances, uch weapons ver form any ! metal : they rding to Men- n upon it, as notner round r a hammer; lat stone und »pean artificer ey have Mi&e .9U v^^^n' IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ^1^ 1^ 1^ m ■ 2.2 Hf li£ 12.0 Ml i m 1 1.25 1 U 1 1.6 4 6" ^ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation •ili WEST MA»<. STREiT WKBSV^i' '^.Y. M5»0 (716) S72-4503 ,^. S^ 6^ If 2 (D^A^2E ; (» .^'atttfj ^irle. n. AStr> KOCmp TttB WORLD. 178 copper ore too, which they melt in like man- ner; but they make only toys and orna- ments for their dress of this metal : nor in- deed, do they ever work in iron, but when they want weapons. They would never labour, if their necessities did not sometimes compel them to it: but, when they do, no people work harder, or more indefatigably ; for they never leave a piece of work, till they have finished it. The ivory-turner makes the ivory rings that are worn ornamentally about the arms ; and considerinf? that his only tool is a com- mon clasp knife, which he procures from the Dutch, the workmanship has great merit. The potter or maker of earthen vessels is another art ; but this, it seems, they are all dexterous at, every family making the pots and pans they want. For these they use only the earth of ant-hills, clearing them of all sand and gravel ; after which, they work it together with the bruised anteggs, that are said to constitute an extraordinary cement. When they have moulded- these materials into a kind of paste, they t&ke as much of them as will make one of their pots, and fashion it by hand^ upon a flat stone, making it of the form of a Roman urn ; then Ihey smooth it within and without very care- fully, not leaving the least roughness upon tlie surface ; and having dried it in the sun two or three days, they put the pot into a hole in the ground, and burn it, by making a fire over it; aiid when they take it out, it appears perfectly black. Every famil y also make their own mats, with which they cover their tents or huts ; but this is chiefly the business of the women ; they gather the flags and rushes by the river side, or weave or plat them into mats so closely, it is said, that neither the weather or light can pene- trate them. The last artificer we shall mention is the •ro[)e-maker, who has no better materials, than such fla^ and rushes as the mats are made of; and yet Miey appear almost as strong as those made of hemj): the Dutch, at the Cape, buy and u% them in ploughing, and in draught-carnages i\s to the way of travelling here, the na- fives all travel on foot, except the aged and infirm ; and these are carricj on their bag- gage oxen. As there are no inns or places for refreshment, the travelling Hotteiwot calls at the kraals in his way, where he meets with a hearty welcome from his country- men, who endeavour to shew their hospita- lity tostrangers,whetherof their own country or of Euro[)e. Such indeed is the general urbanity of these people, and their strict integrity when any contidence is placed in them, that when the Hollanders travel either on foot or horseback, if they cannot reach an European settlement, they also call at the kraals of the Hottentots, where they are complimented with a hut, and such provi- sion as they have, or they may lie in the area of the kraal, in the open air, if they please, and the weather be good ; and here they are secure both from robbers and wiid beasts ; for the bnshis banditti on the moun- tains are dangerous, as they give no quarter ; but the Hottentot nations in general hold them in abhorrence, and unanimously con- cur in seizing and punishing them upon all occasions. Their language i» very inarticulate and defective ; one word signifies several things, the definitive meaning being determined by the manner of pronouncing ; and the pro- nunciation is so harsh and confused, that they seem to stammer in all they speak. Hence, though they are easily taught to un- derstand other languages, they can seldom be brought to speak thsm with any degree of intelligibility. We shall here subjoin a small Hottentot vocabulary, for the satisfaction of the curi- ous; khauna, signifies a lamb; kgou, a goose; bunqvaa, trees; knomm^ to hear; quaqua, a pheasant; tkaka, a whale; horri, beasts in general : knaboii, a fowling piece ; qua-ara-ho, a wild ox ; ounequa, the arms; quienkha, to fall ; likhanee, aclog; konke- qua, a captain; quas, the- neck; quan, the heart ; kgoyes, a buck or doe ; tiquoa, a god ; komma, a house ; khoau, a cat ; kow* knri, iron ; konkekerey, a hen ; thoukou. a dark night ; tkoume, rice ; ghoudie, a sheep; toya, the wind ; ttkaa, a valley ; tkaono- klua, gunpowder; kamkamma, the earth 174 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, qnaoiiw, thunder; duckatere, a duck; kainina, water ; qnayha, an ass ; naevr, the ears ; kirri, a stick ; nomba, the beard ; ka-a to drink ; duriesa, an ox ; hek-k^a, an ox of burden ; ounvie, butter ; houteo* a sea dog : bikgua, the head ; kamma, a stag : kouquil, a piegon ; anthuri, to-morrow; kou, a tooth ; khainouna, the devil ; kah- qua, a horse ; koo, a son ; kammo, a stream ; tiku, grass ; toqua, a wolf; koanqna, the mouth ; kliou, a peacock ; gona, gois a girl ; kl)oakamraa,a baboon: kerhanehou, a star ; mu, an eye : tquassouw, a tyger. The Hottentots have only ten numerical terms, which they repeat twice to express the multiplication of the first term, and three times to express the re-multiplication of the latter. Their terms are : q'kua, one ; k'kaiii, two ; kouna, three ; kakka, four ; koo, five ; nanni, six ; kounko, seven ; kliissi, eight ; khassi, nine; ghissi, ten. Thus have we given a circumstantial and full account of the Ca|)e, its inhabitants, productions and adjacent country ; from whence the French, at Mauritius, are sup- plied by the Dutch with salted beef, biscuit, flour, and wine : the provisions for which the French contracted this year were five hundred thousand lb. weight of salt beef, four hundred thousand lb. of flour; four hundred thousand lb. of biscuit, and one thousand two hundred leagers of wine. We have only to add to this account a few ob- serva^ons on the bay, and garrison. The former is lar^e, safe, and exceeding conve- nient. It is indeed open to the N. W. winds, biU they seldom blow hard ; yet as they sometimes occasion a great sea, the ships moor. N. E. and S. W. The S. E. winds blow frequently with great fury, but their direction being right out of the bay prevents them from being dangerous. For the con- venience of landing and shipping goods, a wharf of wood is run out near the town, to a proper distance. Water is conveyed in pipes to this wharf, and many large boats and hoys are kept by the company to carry stores iind provisions to and from the ship- ping in the harbonr. This bay is covered by a small fort on the E. side of the town, •ttd elosc to the beach ; and is also defended 6 bv several outworks and batteries extendinj^ along the shore, as well on this side of the town as the other ; nevertheless they are by their situation exposed to the shipping, and in a manner defenceless against an enemy of any force by land. As to the garrison, this consists of eight hundred regular troops, besides militia of the country, in which last is comprehended evei'y man able to bear arms. By signals they ran alarm the coun< try in a very short time, and when these are made, the militia is to repair immediately to their place of revidezvous in the town. Oil Sunday, the 14th of April in the morn, ing, we weighed, stood out of the bay, and anchored at five in the evening under Pen. guin, or Robin Island. Here we laid all night, and being prevented from sailing by the wind, the Captain dispatched a boat to the Island for a few trifling articles, which we had omitted to take' in at th« Ct pe : when our people drew near the shore, they were warnecl by the Dutch not to land at their peril. At the same time six men, armed with muskets, paraded upon the beach. The commanding officer in the boat did not think it prudent to risk the lives of his men, on account of a few cab. bages, and therefore^ returned without them to the ship. To tlii^ Island the Dutch at the Cape banish such criminals as are not thought worthy of death, for a certain num. her of yeaiis, according to the nature of their crimes. They are employed as slavis in digging lime-stone, which though scaroe upon the continent, is here in great abund. ance. A Danish ship touched at this Island having been refused assistance at the Cape, and sending her boat on shore, overpowered the guard, and then took as many of the criminals as were necessary to navigate her home; for she had lost great part of her crew by sickness. To this incident we at« tributed our repulse ; concluding that the Dntch to prevent a similar rescue of their prisoners, had ordered their garrison at this place, not to suffer any boat of foreign na< tions to land the crew, and come ashore. On Thursday the 25th, we put to sea, and about fpur o'clock in the afternoon diedoiir master, Mr. Robert Mollineux a youth of AND ROUND THE WORLD. 17a erie« extending his side of tiie ess they arc by shipping, and Inst an enemy > the garrison, regular troops, , in which last 1 able tu bear larm the coun-i when these are ir immediately in the town, rii in the morn- •f the bay, and ing under Fen- ere we laid all rora sailing by >atched a boat rifling articles, take' in at th< r near the shore, itch not to land time six men, ided upon the officer in the nt to risk the of a few cab- without them e Dutch at the Is as are not a certain num. nature of their d as slav.^!s in though scarce 1 great a bund- d at this Island :e at the Cape, e, overpowered s many of the o navigate her ut part of her icident we at. iding that the •escue o( their arrison at this of foreign na- )me ashore, ut to sea, and noon died our X a youth of |ood ports, but unhappily for his own self- preservation too mucn addicted to intempe- rauce, a habit we would caution all those who undertake long voyages to avoid, if they have any regard to their personal safety. We now contmued our voyage without any other remarkable incident ; and on Monday the 29lh, we crossed our first meridian, hav- ing circumnavigated the globe from E. to W. and consequently lost a day, for which upon correcting our reckoning at Batavia, we made an allowance. On Monday the dst of May, we came to anchor at break of day, before James's fort in the Island of St. Helena, and as we proposed to refresh here, Mr. Banks employed nis time in visiting the most remarkable places, and in survey- ing c-ery object of notice. St. Helena is situatetl in the Atlantic ocean, in six degrees W. longitude, and nixteen 8. latitude, almost in the midway between Africa and America, being twelve hundred miles distant from the former, and eighteen hundred from the latter. It was so named by the Portuguese, who discover- it on St. Helen's day. This Island is 36 miles long, 18 broad, and about 61 in cir- cumference. It is the suiUmit of an im- mense mountain rising out of the sea, and of a depth unfathomable at a small dibiance round it. It may be discerned at sea, at above twenty leagues distance, and looks like a castle in tlie middle of the ocean, whose natural walls are of that height, that Ihere is no scaling them. The small valley called Chapel-valley, in a bay on the east side of it, is defended by a battery of forty or fifty great guns, planted even with the water ; and the waves dnshing perpetually on the shore, make it difficult landing even here. There is also one little creek besides where two or three men mav land at a time; but this is now defended by a batteiy of five or six guns,^ and rendered inaccessible. ^ anchorage is to be found any where •bout the Island, but at Chapel-valley bay, |«nd as the wind always sets from the S, E. If a ship overshoots the Island ever so Httle, [fbe cannot recover «t again. The neat of volcanoes bas been "found to be tiie highest part of tk« countriet in %\^cb th«y-«i« found. Uecla » the highest hill in Iceland ; and the peak of Teiicr^e is known to be the covering of subterraneous fire. I'hese are still burning: but there are other moun- tains which bear evident marks of fire that is now extinct : among these is St. Helena, where the inequalities of the ground, and its external surface, are evidently the etiects of the sinkmg of the earth ; and that this was caused by subterraneous fire, is equally manifest (roni the stones, for some of them, especially those in the bottom ol the valleys, are burnt almost to cinders.- This Island, as the Endeavour approached it on the windward side, appeared like a rude heap of rocks, bounded by precipices of an amazing height, and consisting of a kind of stone, which .shews not the least sign of vegetation : nor is it more promising upon a nearer view. Sailing along shore, we came near the huge cliffs, tliat seemed to overhang the ship. At length we opened Chapel-valley, which resembles a trench, and m this valley we discovered the town. The sides of it are as naked as the cliffs next the sea; but tne bottom is slightly clothed with herbage. In its present culti- vated .state, such appeared tire Island to ns; and the first hills must be passed, before the cwmtry displays its verdure, or any other marks of fertility. In Chapel-valley, a little beyond the landing place, is a tort where the governor resides with the garrison; and the town stands just by the sea-side. The greater part of the houses are ill built. The church which was originally a mean structure, is in ruins ; and the market-place nearly in the same condition. The town consists of about f«rty or fifty buildings, constructed after the English fashion, whifher the people of the Island resort when any shipping appears, as well to assist in the deie».je of the Island, as to entertain the seamen if they are friends; for the governor has always sen- tinels on the>liighest'part of the Island, to the windward, who give notice of the ajv proach of all shif>ping, and guns are there- upon fired, that every man may resort to his post. It is impossible for an enemy to approach by sea in the nieht time, and if I7« VOYAGE I'O THE SOUTH SEAS, discnvered the day before, preparations are speedily made for his reception. Notwithstanding the Island appears a barren rock on every side, yet on the top it is covered with a fine layer of earth, pro- ducing grain, fruits, and herbs of various kinds ; and the country after we ascended the rock, is diversified with rising bills and plains, plantations of fruit trees, and kitch- en gardens, among which the houses of the natives are interspersed, and in the open fields are herds of cattle grazing, some of" which are fatted to supply the shipping, and the rest furnish the dairies witn milk, butfer, and cheese. Hogs goats, turkeys, and all manner of poultry also abound, and the seas are well stored with fish. But amidst all this affluence, the peo- ple have neither bread nor wine of their own growth : for though the soil is proper for wheat, yet the rats that harbour m the rocks, and cannot be destroyed, eat up all the seed, before the grain is well out of the ground ; and though their vines flourish and produce them grapes enough, yet the lati- tude is too hot for making wine. This they have therefore from the Canaries, the Ma- deiraA, or the Cape, as well as their flour and malt. Their very houses are some of them brought from Europe ready framed, there being no timber on the Island, trees not taking deep root here on account of the rock that lies so near the surface : however, they have underwood enough for necessary uses. Besides grapes they have plantains, bananas, figs, lemons, and such other fruits as hot countries usually produce. They .also raise kidney beans, and some other kinds of pulse in their gardens ; and the want of bread they supply with potatoes and yams. In the year 1701, there were upon the Island about two hundred families, most of them English, or descended from English parents. Every family has a house and plantation on the higher part of the Island, where they look after their cattle, fruits, and kitchen garden. They scarce ever coine down to the town, unless it be to church, or when the shipping arrive, when most of the houses in the valley are con- verted into punch-houses, or lodgings for their guests, to whom they sell their poultry, and other commodities; but they are not suffered to purchase any merchandise o( the ships that touch here. Whatever they want of foreign growth or manufacture, they are obliged to buy at the company'^ warehouse, where twice every month, tliey may furnish themselves with brandy. Euro. Kean or Cai)e wines, liatavia arrack, n alt, eer, sugar, tea, ccffee, china, and ja'pan< ware, linen, (rallicoes, chintz, muslins, rjK bands, woollen-cloth and stuffs, and all manner of clothing, for which they are aK lowed six months credit. Among the very few native productions of this Island must be reckoned ebony, though the trees are now nearly extinct. Pieces of this wood are fre. quently found in the vallies of a fine black colour, and a hardness almost equal to iron; these pieces, however, are so short and crooked, that no use can be made of them. There are few insects here, but upon the tops of the highest ridges a, species of snail is found, which has probablv been there since the original creation of their kind. It is indeed very difficult to conceive how any thing not formed here, or brought hitlier by the diligence of man, could find its way to a place so severed from the rest of the world, by seas of immense extent. The Portuguese, who discovered this Is- land in 1502, stored it with hogs, goats and poultry, and used to touch at it for water and fresh provisions in their return from India ; but we do not find they ever planted a colony here; or, if they did, having (l^ sertcd it afterwards, the English East-India Company took possession of the Island A D. HiOO, and held it till 1673. without inter- ruption, when the Dutch took it by surprise. However, the English, commanded hy Capt. Munden, recovered it again within the space of a year, and took three Dntih East India ships that lay in the road at the same time. The Hollanders had fortified the landing place, a -id planted batteries of great guns to prev*i> a descent ; but the English being acquaii .c avoided without going three r four miles about ; so that they seldom want air or ex- ercise, the great preservers of health. As to the genius and temper of these people, they seemed to us the most honest, tlie most inoffensive, and the most hosfntable people we ever met with of English extraction. havin«r scarce any tincture of avarice or ambition. We asked some of them, if they had no curiosity to see the rest of the world, and how they could confine then.selves to so small a spot of earth, separated at such a distance from the rest of mankind ? 1'hey replied, that they enjoyed the necessuriea of life in great plenty: they were neither parched with excessive lieat,^ or ])inched with cold : tliejj^ lived in perfect security ; in no danger of enemies, of robbers, wild beasts, or rigorous seasons ; and were happy in the enjoyment of a continued state of health : that as there were no rich men among them (scarce any planter being worth more than a thousand dollars) so there were no poor in the Island, no man being worth less than four hundred dollars,, and consequently not obliged to undergo more labour than was necessary to keep him in health. Our thoughts were now employed on. returning to our native shore ; and having sufficiently recruited our stores, on Satur- day the 4th of May, weweiuhed, and sailed out of the road in company with the Port- land man of war. and his convoy, consisting of twelve sail of East Indiamen.* With this fleet we continued our course for England until Friday the 10th, when perceiving they out-sailed us, and consequently might make their port, before us, Ca[)t. Cook^ for this reason, made the signal to speak with the Portland, upon which Capt. Elliot came on board the Endeavour ; to whom a letter lor the Admiralty was delivered, with a box, containing the common Jog books of the ship, and the journals of sonie of the officers. We (jlid not lose sight of the fleet till Thurs- day the 23rd, when they parted from us ; and about one o'clock in the afternoon wr «78 VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH S?AS. I I lost our first lieutenant, Mr. Hicks, an active, likilAii, judicious, and nsetnl oiheer. He died of a cr»ni4umption, of which lingering disorder he digcovered some symptoms wlien he left Eiivriand ; so that it may be truly •aid, that he was dying the whole voyage ; end his derline was very gradual till we arrived at Batavia, from whence to the time of his dissolution, the slow consuming dis- ease gained strength daily. The whole ship's company attended the funeral rites, And in the evening we committed his body to the sea with the usual ceremonies. The next day the Captain appointed Mr. Charles Clark, a young man, to act in the room of Mr. Hicks. ^^e now every day drew nearer our de- sired haven ,- but what must be the condition of our once good ship, the Endeavour, may easily be imagined, from a slight recollec- tion of the hardships she had surmounted, •nd the dangers she had providentially escaped. At this time our rigging and sails were so weather-beaten, that every day some- thing was giving way. However, we held on our course, without any material occur- rence that might endanger our safety, till Monday the 10th of June, when, to our great joy, Nicholas Young, the boy who nrst discovered New Zealand, called out ]and from the mast head, which proved to be the Lizard. The next day, being Tues- day, the elevertth, we proceeded up the channel. On Wednesdajr the 12th, with the pleasing hopes of seeing our relatives and friends^ exciting sensations not to be described by the pen of the most able writer, we passed Beachy Head. At noou, to our inexpressible joy we were a breast of Dover ,- and about three o'clock, P. M. we came to an anchor in the Downs. When we landed at Deal, our ship's companv indulged freely that mirth, and sociable jollity, common to all English sailors upon their return from a long voyage, who as readily forget hardships and dangers, as with alacrity iuid bravery they encounter them. We cannot close this book without join- ing in that general censure, which ha§ been Vi^tly bestowed on Dr. Hawkesworth the late compiler of a former aeeonnt of thSi voyage ot the Endeavour. An in6del may imbibe what deistical chimeras may be best adapted to the gloomy temper of his mind; but we cannot but tinnk him highly culpa, ble in forcing them into a work of this kind, for though it may be said, that, with respect to efficient and rinal causes, the opinion of a general and particular Providence will form one and the same conclusion, yet Ve think it ist)f jjreat comfort to all men, par- ticularly ro those who can trace the wonders of an almighty hand in the deep, to be sen. sibleofa merciful interposition, concerned, and ever attentive to their support, pre.ser< vation, and deliverance in times of danger. Besides, this sentiment of a divine Agent superintending, and correctnig the disorders introduced by natural and moral evil, is un* doubtsdiy a scripture doctrine ; and from the deductions of the mere light of nature, it must appear unreasonable to suppose, that the first Great Cause who planned tlif whole grand scheme of creation, should not be allowed to interfere with respect to par. ticular parts, or individuals, as occasion, circumstances, or times may require. And whoever has duly considered the wonderful protection of the Endeavour in cases of dan. ger the most imminent, particularly when encircled in the wide ocean, with rocks ol coral, her sheathing beaten otf, and hei false keel floating by her side, a hole in her bottom, and the men by turns fainting at the pumps, cannot but acknowledge the existence of a particular Providence. Tht history of Joseph can only afford a more striking instance of the interposition of a divine invisible hand. This our country. men experienced ; and we have good autho rity to assert, that our company in the En- deavour do acknowledge, 'notwithstanding; the private opinion of the above mentioned compiler, that the hand of Superior Power was particularly concerned in their protee- tion and deliverance. This omniscient and omnipotent power, it is the incumbent dutv of every cbnstian to believe, confide in, and adore. •| s 'i^ SECOND VOYAGE ROUND THB WORLD, IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS THE RESOLUTION, AND ADVENTURE. INTRODUCTION. THE king1» expectations where not wholly answered by former discove- fies, whicii were so Itij^liiy blazoned boYh at tiome nnd abroad, and therefore his mn- jesty projected this second Voyage of Capt. Cook, and the Navy-board was ordered to equip two snch ships as were most suitable to the service. Accordingly two vessels were purchased of Capt. William Ham- mond, of Hull, beinir about fourteen or six- teen months old. They were both built at Whitby, by the same person who built the jBndeavour. The largest of the two, named the Resolution, burthen four hundred and sixty two tons, was sent to Depiford to be fitted out ; and the Adventure, three hun- dred and thirty six tons, was equipped at Woolwich. On the 28th of November, 1771, Capt. Cook was appointed to the command of the Resolution ; and Tobias Furneaux, who had been second lieutenant with Capt. Wallis, was promoted to the command of the Advttiture. The Resolution had one hundred and twelve hands on board, offi- cers included : ar.d the Adventure eighty one. In the former, James Cook was Ca])- tain, Robert P. Cooper, Charles Clark, and Richard Pickersgill, were appointed lieute- nants. Joseph Gilbert was master ; James Grey, boatswain ; Jaiuef Wallis, carpenter ; 3 Robert Anderson, gunner ; and James Fat* ten, surgeon. John Edgcocabe was lieute. nant of the marines, under whom were one. Serjeant, two corporals, one drummer and fifteen privates. The rest of the crew con- sisted of three master's mates, six midship* men, two sui^con's mates, one captain's clerk, one master at arms, one corporal, one armourer, his mate, one sail-maker, his mate, three boatswain's mates, carpenter's three, gunner's two, four carpenter^ crew* one cook, his mate, six quarter masters, and fort}r-five able seamen. In the Adventure, Tobias Fnrneanx was captain, Joseph Shank, and Arthur Kempe, lieutenants; Peter Fannin was appointed master, EcU ward Johns boatswain, William Otfard car- penter, Andrew Gloag gunner, Thomas Andrews surgeon : of master's mates, mid- shipmen, kc. as a bove, the number was twenty-eight, and thirty-three able bodied seannen. James Scott was lieutenant of the marines, under whose command were one seijeant, one corporal, one drummer, and eight privates. The two ships were ordered to be got in readiness with the utmost expedition, and both the Navy and Victualling boards paid an nncommon attention to their equipment ; even the first lord of Hie Admiralty visitMi im VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE tliein from time to time; in roiisequence of which they were not restrained by ordinary establishments, ever}' extra aticle thought ne- cessary being allowed, in order that they niig^ht be rttted com|)letely, and in every re- spect to the satisfaction of those who were to embark in them. Indeed, Capt. Cook sailed with greater advantage.s in this expedition, than any of his predecessors who had gone out before on discoveries ; and we may ven- ture to say, no future commander will ever liave a commission of a more liberal kind, nor. be furnished with a greater profusion of the very best stores and provisions. He had the frame of a vessel of twenty toils, one for €ach ship, to serve occasionally, or u[)on any emergency, as tenders: he nad on board fishing-nets, lines and hooks of every kind ; he was supplied with innumerable articles of small value, ndapted to the commerce of the tropical Islands : he had on board addi- tional clotliing for the seamen, particularly suited to a cold climate, to all which were added the best instr-" -its for astronomical and nautical observ. s ; in which were included four time-j.c. j on Mr. Harrison's principles, constructed by Messrs. Arnold and Kendal. And that nothing might be wanting to procure information, and that «euld tend to the success of the voyage, a lamlscap^ painter, Mr. William Hodges, was engaged for this important undertaking, accompanied by Mr. (nowDr) John Rein- hold Foster and Son, who were thought the most proper pei"sons for the line of Natural History, to which they were appointed with f parliamentary encouragement. Mr. Wil- iam Wales, and Mr. William Baily, were likewise engaged to make astronomical observations; the former being placed by the board of longitude, in the Resolution, and Mr. Bailey in the Adventure. Nor must we omit to mention the number of medals struck by order of the Lords of the Admiralty, and intended to be left both as presents and testimonies in new discovered countries. ^ The two ships were victualled and pro- vided with all manner of necessaries for a three years* voyage ; among which were the lioUowiDg extra articles: 1. Malt, for sweet 4 wort, designed for those whose babit ef body mi^^ht engender the scurvy, and as a remedy lor such who might be afflicted with that disorder. The quantitjr prescribed for each patient, from ^ne to six pints a day, at the discretion of the surgeon. 2. Sour krout, of which each seaman was to be allow« ed two pounds a week. This is cabbage salt- ed dow ti, and close packed in casks, after having been properly fermented. It is esteemed by our navigators an excellent antiscorbutic. 3. Cabbage cut small and salted down, to which is added juniper berries, and anniseeds, which are likewise put to the sour krout. 4. Portable soup, very nourishing, and of great utility botji for invalids, and those that are in good health, d. Oranges, rob of lemons, and saloiip, for the use of the surgeons, to he administered to the sick and scorbutic only. 6. Marmalade of Carrots, recommended by Baron Storch of Berlin, as a very great antiscorbutic ; but it did not as such aih swer our expectation. This syrup is extracts ed from yellow carrots, by evaporating the finer parts, till it is brougnt to a consistence of treacle, which it much resembles both in taste and colour 7. Juice of wort and beer, in.spissated as the foregoing article, and intended to supply at times the place of beer, by mixing it with water. For this we were indebted to Mr. Pelham, Secretary of the Victualling office ; the commissioners of which ordered thirty-one half barrels of this juice to be prepared fur trial ; nineteen whereof were stowed in the Resolution, and twelve on board the Adventure. Thus all the conveniences necessary for the preser. vation of health during a long voyage, were provided in abundance ; and even some alterations were made in the customary articles of provisions ; wheat being substi* tuted in the room of a quantity of oatmeal, and sugar instead of oil. A proposed voyage attended with such extraordinary preparations, patronized bv parliament, as well as royal bounty, and the execution of which being superintendwl by the first officers of the admiralty, the navy, and by Capt. Cook himself, ne do not hesitate to pronouacc on« of the most AND ROUND THE WORLD. 1^1 iinporfnnl fftat was ever performed in any ranee amidst the y his miyesty, was equal of proceeding ; in short, his conduct tlirough- to the task on which he was embarked, out, which while hte kept every man singly Every thinking person cannot but admire in strict obedience to his duty, he ronoili his skill, his fortitude, his care of his men, ated the affections of all, and secured their his vigilance in attending to the minutest inti- «st«em. mations of former navigators, his perseve- CHAP. L T/ie ResohttioH takes her departure from Deptford; Touches at the Island of St. J ago, one o) the Cape de Verds ; Pursues her voyage to the Cape of Good Hope ; Account of transactions there, and incidents that happened in her passage ; Her departure from the Cape ; Continues her voyage in search of a Southern Continent; Sequel of this search, between the meridian of the Cape of Good Hope, and that of New Zealand; Separatist of the two ships, and t/ie arrival of the Resolution in Dusky Hay, ,m , • t THE Resolution and Adventure being equipped in the most complete man- ner, as already related, the fornaer on the 9th of April, dropped down the river as far as Woolwich, at which place she was detain- ed bv contrary winds; but on the 22nd, sailed from thence to Long Reach, where she was joined by her companion the Ad- venture and both ships took m their marines, guns, and ammunition. May the 10th, we sailed for Plymouth, but before we got out of the river, the Resolution was found to be very crank, on which account we put into hheerness. While some alterations were making in her upper works. Lord Sandwich and Sir Hugh Falliser paid us a visit, in order to see they were executed in a proper manner. The Resolution being again ready for sea, we departed from Sheer- ness. On the 2nd of July we met Lord Sandwich, in the Augusta Yacht, whom we saluted with seven teeen guns, and his lord- ship, accompanied with Sir Hugh Pall'iser, honoured us with their presence on board, which was the last instance of that very great attention they had paid to a variety of particulars that might tend to promote the success of our undertaking. 6 About this time Capt. Cook received from the board of Admiralty his instructions, dated the 25th of June, the tenor and sub- stance of which were, that the Adventure was to be under his command : that the two ships were to proceed to the Island oi Madeira, from thence to the Cape of Good Hope: that having at this place refreshed the ^ips' companies, and supplied them with provisions and other necessaries, they were to make the best of their way to the southward, in search of Cape Circumcision, which by M. Bouvet, is said to be in lati- tude 54 deg. S. and in about 11 deg. 20 min. E. longitude, from the Royal Observa- tonr in the Park at Greenwich ; that if they fell in with this Cape, Capt. Cook was to endeavour, by all means in his power, to discover whether the same was part of the supposed continent, which had so much employed the national attention of different European powers, or only the promontory of an Island : that in either case, the gen- tlemen on board the two ships were dili- gently to explore the same, to the utmost extent possible ; and to make such obser- vations of various kinds, as might corres- pond with the grand object in view^ and be 183 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLR in any respect useful to either navigation or coiunierce ; not omitting at the same time proper remarks on the genius and temper or the inhabitants ; whose friend- ship and alliance they were directed to con- ciliate, by all probable motives, and pru- dential means in their power: that uiey ivere to oroceed on new discoveries to the eastwaru or westward, as the captains might judge most eligible, endeavouring only to run into as high a latitude, and as near the south |>ole as possible : that whatever might be the result of their investigations with respect to Cape Circumcision, tliey were to continue their surveys to the southward, and then to the eastward, either in search of the said continent, should it not have been ascertained, or to make discoveries of cuch Islunds as might be seated in the hitherto unexplored and unknown parts of the southern latitudes: that, havmg cir- cumnavigated the globe, they were to return to Spithead by the way of the Cape of Good Ho|)e : and that to answer the intentions of government in this voyage as fully as possi- ble, when the season of the year rendered it unsafe to continue in high latitudes, they were to repair to some known port to the northward ; and after having refitted, &c. they were to return again, at the proper sea- son to the southward, in prosecution of new discoveries there. It may not be amiss ^ere to observe, that these orders were not intended in any respect to cramp Capt. Cook, who was allowed, in case tlie Resolu- tion should be lost, to continue his voyage in the Adventure : he had to this end assist- ants out of number: his stay was not even liinted at : he was not obliged to return at any limited time ; in short he had ample power, full authority, and, in all unforeseen cases, he was to proceed according to his own discretion, and act entirely as he pleas- ed; We beg leave further to observe, that In the history of this voyage, Greenwich is made our first mendian, and from hence the longitude is reckoned E. and W. to 180 deg. each way. And our readers will also take notice, that whenever the initiail letters, A. M. and P. M. of ante-meridian um, and gost-meridianum, are used, the former signi. es the forenoon, and the latter the attcp* noon of the same day. A. copy of the above instructions we trans. mitted to Captain Fu-neaux, inclosed wiih Capt. Cook's ordeni« in which he appointed, should the two ships be separated, the Is. land of Madeira for the first place of ren< dezvous; Port Praya for the second; tii« Cape of Good Hope for the third ; and New Zealand fbr the fourth. While we remained at Plymouth, our astronomers, Mr. Wales, anfl Mr. IBayley made observations on Drake's Island; when the latitude was found to be 50 dei^. 21 R:>in. 30 sec. N. and the longtitude 4 deg. 20 min. W. of Greenwich ; wherebv the true time for putting the time-pieces ana watches in motion was ascertained. This was dont on the 13th, of July, and they were set a going, in the presence of the two astrono- mers, Capt. Furneaux, Capt. Cook, and tht two first lieutenants of the ships. These had each of them keys of the boxes which contained the watches, and were always to be present at the winding them up, and com* paring the one with the other, unless prevent* ed by indisposition. Thisday,theships'crew8 according to the custom of the navy, received two months' wages in advance. As a fur- ther encouragement, and that the^ might firovide necessaries for the voyage, tney were ikewise paid the wages due to them to th« 28th, of tne preceeding May. On Sunday the 12th, of Jnlsr, the Resolu- tion broke from her moorings in the Sound, and was adrift together with the transport buoy to which she was fastened. All hands were on deck instantly, the cables were cleared, and the sails spread. We passed the Adventure, and came to an anchor, after having escaped the very apparent dan- ger of being dashed against the rocks which are under the fort. This favourable event was looked upon bv our seamen as an omen to the success of the voyage. It was un. doubtedly an instance of the care of Divine Providence exerted for our protection in no critical a moment. Indeed the whole o/ our voyage, equally with this circumstanca .*,! . U^^ *.: »■ ^ il m m M' *■* AND ROUND THE WORLD. im M > ■^ ^ 1 Q >s 9i *S" « t^ Q ^^) ?^ '■Q ^1 1 ^ ,;] !:-! ■ Q .' '^ i .<. ' <„ ti ■'• Q i-i demonstrates, that a divine power was abso- lutely necessary to protect us in times of danger, and to give «s a safe return. On Monday the 13th, at six o'clock, A. M. the two ships sailed from Plymouth Sound, in company, and passed the Eddi- stone, which is a lofty, well contrived tower, of the utmost advantage to navigation and commerce. As we stood off shore, the wind increased, and the billows rolled liigher and higher. Most of the seamen both old and young were affected with sickness. On the 20th, we fell in with Cape Ortegal on the coast ofGalicia. The country appears hilly, and the tops of the hills are covered with wood. The sea now grew perfectly calm, and the prospect which surrounded us was yery delightful. When in sight of Cape Finisterre, bearing W. S. W, seven or eight leagues, we were met by a small French Tartan from Marseilles, freighted with flour from Ferrol and Coruna. We obtained from them a small supply of fresh water, which we much wanted, having been obhged to subsist on bread and our wine. On the 22nd, in the afternoon, we passed two Spanish men of war, one of which fired a shot at the Adventure to bring her to ; but on hailing her, and being told we weqe king's ships, made a proper apology, and very politely took leave, wishing us a good voyage. On Wednesday, the 29th, about nine at night, we anchored in Funchiale road, in the Island of Madeira. After hav- ing saluted the garrison with eleven guns, and they had returned the compliment, we went on shore, accompanied by the two Forsters, and were conducted by Mr. Sills, a gentleman from the vice-consul, to the lioiise of Mr. Lough nans, a considerable Eiigii.'h merchant, who assisted us with every accommodation the Island and his house afforded, during our stay. Here the officers and private men furnished them- selves »vith such stocks of wine as they con hi conveniently purchase. The Madeira, or Madera Islands are only thrte in number ; namely, Madeira properly so called; th.^ Island of Puerto, or Porto Santo ; and Isla Deserta, or the Desolate Isle. Thev are situated to the N. of the 7 Salvages, and in the Atlantic ocean, be- tween thirty-two and thirty-three deg. and seventeen and eighteen deg. W. longitude, two hundred and fifty miles N. by E. from Teneriffe, three hundred and^ sixty from Cape Cantin on the coast of Africa, and three hundred N. of the Island of Farro. They were thus named from the principal of them, which was called by the Portu- ?[ueze Madeira, signifying a wood or forest, i'om its being overgrown with trees. Thejr were first discovered by an English gentle- man, and many years after by the Portugueze ; and as there is something extremely singu- lar in both these occurrences, but more par- ticularly the first, we shall, for the enter- tain inent of our readers relate the circum- stances attending it. J:> the reign ot Edward III. king of Eng- land, a young gentleman, named Robert Machin, conceived a violent passion for Ann D' Arfet, a beautiful and accomplished lady of a noble family. Machin, with re- spect to birth and fortune, was inferior to the lady : but his personal qualifications overcame every scruple on tiiat account, and she rewarded his attachment with a reciprocal affection. Her friends, however beheld the young gentleman in a different light ; they fancied their blood would be contaminated by an alliance with one of a lower rank, and therefore determined to sa- crifice the happiness of the young lady, to the hereditary pride of blood, and their own mercenary and interested motives. In con- sequence of these ideas, a warrant was pro- cured from the king, under the sanction of which, Machin was apprehended^ and kefit in close confinement, tdl the object of his affections was married to a nobleman, whose chief merit lay in his honorar]^ title and large possessions ; and iirmediately after the nuptial ceremony was over, the peer, took his beautiful bride with him to a strong castle which he had in the neighbourhood of Bristol, and then the unfortunate lover was set at liberty. After being released from his cruel con- finement, Alachin was acquainted that his mistress had been compelled to give her hand to another. This rendered him almost 184 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, frantic, and he rowed to revenpre the vio- lence done to the lady, and the iivjiiry which he himself had sustained ; and with this view, imparted his desiij^n to some of ' his friends and companions, who engaged to accompany liim to Bristol, and assist him in whatever enterprise he undertook. Accordingly one of his comrades contrived to get himself hired by the nobleman as a servant, and by that means being introduced into the family, he soon found an op|>ortu- nity to let the lady know tlie sentiments and intentions of her lover ; when she fully •entered into all his projects, and promised to comfdy with whatever he should propose. To facilitate their designs, the lady appear- ed more cheerful than usual, which lulled asleep every suspicion that lier lord might otherwise have entertained ; she also en- treated (permission to ride out dailv to take the air for the benefit of her health, which request her consort easily granted. This point being giiined, she did not fail to take advantage of it, by riding out every morn^ ing accompanied by one servant only, which washer lover's companion, he having been previously pitched upon always to -attend her by her own contrivance. Matters being thus prepared, she one day rode out as usual, when her attendant con- ducted her to his friend, who waited at the sea side to receive her. They all three im- mediately entered a boat, and soon reached ft ship that lay at some distance ready to receive them on board : and Machin, having the object of his wishes on board, immedi- ately, with the assistance of his associates, set sail, intending to proceed to France ; btit all on boiu'd being ii;norant of mariiiiiie afluirs, and the wind blowing a hard gale, tliey missed their V)ort, and the next morn- ing, to their astonisliment, found themselves driven into the main ocean. In this miser* able condition, they abandoned themselves to despair,- and committed their fates to the mercy of the waves. Without a pilot, al- most destitute of provisions, and quite devoid of hope, they were tossed about for the «pace of thirteen days. At length, when the morning of the fourteenth dav began to ort herself under it. She had indeed before continually fed her ^rief, by sad presages of the enterprise's endmg in some fatal catas-^ trophe to all concerned ; but the shock of the late disaster struck her dumb ; so that she expired in three days afterwards, in the most bitter agonies. The death of the lady affected Machin to such a degree, that he survived her but four days, notwithstanding the utmost endeavours of his companions to afford him consolation. Previous to his death, he begged them to place his body in the same grave with her's which they had made at the foot of an altar, erected under the beautiful lofty tree before mentioned. They afterwards placed upon it a large wooden cross ; and near that an imscription, drawn up by Machin himself, containing a succinct account of the whole adventure ; and concluded with a request, that if any Christians should come thither to settle, that they would build and dedicate a church to Jesus Christ ufjon that spot. The re- maining com[)anions of Machin, afW his death, determined to attempt returning to £n!i>:land in the sloop, whicn had been so well secured near the shore, as not to be in the least damaged by the storm which had driven away the ship. But, happening to take the syne course the others had been forced upon, they unfortunately arrived in like manner upon some part of the coast of Morocco, where they met with exactly the same fite, being seized in a similar manner and carried to the same prison. Here they met with several other Christian slaves, be- sides their -own companions ; particularly one John de Morales, a Spaniard of Seville. This man was an excellent sailor, and took a |>eculiar delight in hearing the English Ciiptives rehearse their adveuturesjby which means he learnt the situation and particular marks of this new discovered country, which he took care to retain in hi.s memory. In process of time, John I. king of Por- tugal, having entered into a war with the Moors, passed over into Africa with a formi- dable army ; and in the year 1415 laid siege to and took Ceuta. In this expedition, he was accompanied by his sons, one of whom, prince Henry, took great delight in the study of the inathematice. particularly geography and navigation. Upon this oc- casion, they hiid a great opportunity of con- versing with the Moors and African Jews ; and informing himself, by their means, of the situation of several foreign countries, the seas about them, their coasts, &c. Hence grew an insatiable thirst for making new conquests ; and from this time lie was deter- mined to devote his attention to the disco- very of unknown countries. In consequence of which resolution, he retired, after the reduction of Ceuta, to the Algarves, where he found a liew town within a league of Cape St. Vincent, erected a fort to defend it, and determined to send out ships from tlience upon discoveries. The person IL? intended to employ as chief commander, upon these occasions, was a gentleman of extraordinary abilities, named Juan Gon- salvn Zarco, who became famous not only for his maritime discoveries, but for being tlie first person who introduced the use of artillery on board ships. In 1418 he disco- vered Puerto Santo, one of the Madeiras;. and in 1420 he passed the straits, and surveyed a considerable extent of the coast of Africa. In the mean time, a Spanish prince dying, left by his will a large sum of money for the purpose of redeeming Spanish Christians, who were kept as slaves in Mo- rocco. Terms being agreed upon between the emperor of Morocco and the jcommis- sioners, for the redemption of those captives, a Spanish ship was sent to Morocco to fetch home the redeemed Christians, among whom was John de Morales before mention- ed. On the return of this ship to Spain, it happened to fall in with the squadron com- manded by Juan Gonsalvo Zarco, who was as we have iust noticed, then passing th« 186 VOYAGE TO^rAllDS THE SOUTH POLE, straits to make observations on the coast of Africa. Spain and Portugal being at this time at war, Juan Gonsaivo Zarco made prize of the Spanish ship; but finding it contained only redeemed captives, he was touched with compassion at the miseries they had already suffered during their sla- very, and generously dismissed them, taking out only John de Morales, whom he found to be a very intelligent person, an able sai- lor, and an expert pilot. When Morales was informed of the rea- son of his detention, and the discoveries that the Portuguese were upon, he was mightily rejoiced, and offered voluntarily to enter into the service of prince Henry. He then told the Portuguese commander of the Island which had been lately discovered by the English, related the story of the two unfortunate lovers, and every other circum- stance, which, during his captivity, he had heard from Machin's companions. Gon- saivo was so delighted with his relation, that he tacked about, and returned to the new town which prince H^nry had , built, called Terra Nabal. On his arrival, he in- troduced Morales to the prince, when the Spaniard again repeated all that he had before told to Juan Gonsaivo. The prince thought this worthy of becoming a national affair ; and therefore, communicating the whole to the king his father, and the Por- tuguese ministry, tiiey determined to pursue the discoverv ; and for that purpose fitted out a good snip, well manned ancl provided, and a sloop to go with oars, when occasion required: and Juan Gonsaivo was appoint- ed to the whole coniniand. Some Portu- enese, on the discovery of Puerto Santo a diort time before, had been left by Gonsaivo on that Island ; and judging by the account of Morales, concerning the situation of the Island they were in quest of, that it could wot be far from Puerto Santo, he determined io sail thither ; where when he arrived, the Portuguese whom he had left behind, in- formed him, that they had observed to the north-east a thick impenetrable darkness, which constantly hung upon the sea, and extended itself upward to the heavens. That they never knew it to be diminished ; but a strange noise, which they could not account for, was often heard from thence. John de Morales appeared to be convinc- ed that this was the Island ihey were io search of; and Juan Gonsaivo was inclined to coincide with him ; but all the rest were terrified at the accounts they had heard. It was therefore conolnded to remain at Puerto Santo till the change of the moon, to set what effect that would have noon the shade, or whether the noise would cease. But perceiving no alteration of any kind, the panic increased among the generality of tlie adventurers. Morales however, stood fi rni to his opinion of that being the Island they were looking for; and very sensibly observ- ed, that, according to the accounts he Jiad received from the liinglish, the ground was covered over with lofty shady trees ; it was no wonder, therefore, that it should be ex- ceeding damp> nnd that the humid vapours might exhale from it by the power of the sun, which spreading themselves to the sky, occasioned the darlc clouds tht^y saw ; and with respect to the noise, that might l:>e ooi casioned by certain currents dashing against the rocks on the coast of the Island. Notwithstanding these obstacles, Juan Gonsaivo determined to proceed ; and, set. ting sail the next day, heat length made land ; and the fear of those who liad been all along terrilied now vanished. The first point they saw, they named St, Lawrence's Point: doubling this, they found to the southward, rising land, whither Moralei and others were sent in a sloop to reconnoi- tre the coast ; and came to a bay which seemed t<* answer the description given hy the English. Here they landed ; and find- ing the cross and inscription over the grave of the two lovers, they returned to Juan Gonsaivo with an account of their success; whereupon lie immediately landed, and took possession of the place, in tlie name of John L king of Portugal, and prince Henry his son. Having built an altar near the grave, they searched about the Island in order to discover if it contained any cat- tle ; but not finding any, they coasted wt st- ward, till they came to a place where four fine riv«rs ran into the sea« of the waters oi' AND ROUND THE WORLD. 387 which Juan Gonsalvo filled some boctle;*, to carry as a present to prince ^ Henry, Proceeding farther, they came to a fine val- ley, which was intersected by a beantifnl river, and after that to a pleasant spot co- vered with trees, some of which being fallen down, Juan Gonsalvo ordered a cross to be erected of the timber, and called the place Santa Cruz, or Holy Cross. After this they began to look out for a place proper to fix their residence in while they stayed : and at length found a fine tract of land, not so woody as the rest of the country, but covered over with fennel, which, in the Portuguese language, is called Funcho; from thence the town of Fonchal, or Funchiale, took its name which was afterwards built on the same spot. • Juan Gonsalvo, after having viewed other parts of the Island, and finding daily cause for new admiration of the beauties continu- ally discovered, returned to Portugal and arrived at Lisbon in the end of August 1420, without having lost a single man in the whole enterprise ; and a day of audience being appointed for him to make his report of his voyage, the king gave the name of Madeira to the new discovered Island, on account of the great quantity of excellent wood found upon it. Soon after an order was made for Juan Gonsalvo to return to Madeira in the ensuing spring, with thetitle of captain governor of Madeira, to which title the heir of his family at present adds that of count. He accordingly set sail on his second voyage in May^ 1421, taking with lnm the greatest part of his family, and arriving at Madeira he cast anchor m the road, till then called the English Port; but Gonsalvo, in honour of the first discoverer, then called it Puerto de Machino, from which name it was corrupted to Machico, which it now bears. He then ordered the la.'ge spreading beautiful tree before men- tioned (under which Machin and his com- panions had taken up their residence) to be cut down, and a small church to be erected with the timber ; which, agreeable to Ma- chin's request, he dedicated to Jesus Christ, and intersected the pavement of the choir with the bones of the two unfortunate lovers. He soon aftci laid the foundation of the town of Funchal, which afterwards bec^.me famous ; and the altar of the new Wcoden church was dedicated to St. Catharine, by his wife Coustantia, who was with him. Joiin I. king of Portugal, dyisig, h'r. eldest son and successor Duarte, in consideration of the great sums of money expended in peopling this Island, by prince Heiii-y, his brother gave him the revenues of it for life. He likewise gave the spiiitiiajities of it to the order of Christ, which endowment Alonza XV. afterwards confirmed. The Island of Madeira, properly so called, is cor..posed of one continued hill of a won- derful height, extending from east to west ; the declivity of which, on the south side, is cultivated and interspersed with vineyards : and in the midst of this slope, tiie merchants have fixed their country seats, which help to render the prospect very agreeable. The air is more moderate than that in the Ca- nary Islands, ond the soil more fertile in corn, wine, sugar and fruits. Fine springs abound almost in every part, besides which there are eight good rivers. The great plenty of water first suggested the hint to i.riiice Henry of sending sugar canes to Madeira from Italy, which greatly improved through the increase of heat, and produced more than in their native soil. This Island afibrds plenty of citrons, ba- nanas, peaches, apricots, plumbs, cherries figs and walnuts ; with oranges of all sorts, and lemons of a prodigious size. Fruit-trees from Europe thrive here in perfection ; and the natives are said to make tiie best sweet- meats of any in the world, and jiarticularly greatly excel in preserving citrons and oranges, and in making marmalade and perfumed pastes, which greatly excel those of Genoa. The sugar made here is very fine, and has the smell of violets ; this, in- deed, is said to be the first place in the West where this manufacture was set on foot, and from thence was carried to Ame- rica : but afterwards the sugar plantations at Brazil prospering extremely, the greatest part of the sugar-canes in this Island were pulled up, and vineyards planted in their steadi that produce excellent wiaes> which 183 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, the nnthnr of Lord Anson's voyage observes, seems to be desis?ne«l by Providence to ex- liilenite and coiiilort the inhubitunts of the torrid zon<». The cedar-tree here is very straigrht, tall, and thick, and has a rich scent. Tl I e wood of the nasso tree is of a red rose colour; here are also the mastic and gum- dragon trees ; and besides fruit-trees there are a variety of other trees, which are com- mon both to Europe and Africa. The ever- lasting-flower is a great curiosity ; for when it is plucked it cannot be perceived to fade ; it grows like sage, flowers like camomile, and always appears fresh and blooming. Vines are in abundance ; and 4i«om 'he grapes which they produce, a vast quantity of the most delicious wines are made. In- deed the soil is so well adapted for the cul- tivation of vines, that the grapes exceed the leaves in number, and some of the bimches are sixteen or eighteen inches in length. Here are several sorts of these wines ; one is of the colour of champaign, but is not much valued : another sort is a white wine, much stronger than the former. A third sort is excellent, and resembles malmsey, it being of the same nature with that which grows in Tencriife : and another resembles Alicant wine, but is much inferior to it in -taste, and is never drank alone, but mixed with the other sorts, to which it gives a colour and strength to keep. It is observa- ble of the Madeira wines, that they are greatly improved by the heat of the sun, when exposed to it in the barrel, after the bung is taken out. In the whole Island they annually make about twenty-eight thousand pipes, eight thousand of which are drank there, and the rest exported, the ■greatest part lieing sent to the West-Indies. The wines that are brought directly to En- gland, are not equal in goodness to such as are first carried to the West-Indies ; and their flavour is exceedingly heightened, if they re- niain some time in Barbadoes. The product of each vineyard is usually divided equally between the proprietor, and the person who gathersand presses the granes ; it commonly happens, however, that wliile the merchant IS rich, the gatherer is poor. The people here trade among themselves, or barter. 4 The principal town in the whole tsland is Fonchal, or Funchiale, and is seated in the south part of the Island at the bottom ofa large bay, in latitude ;)2 deg. 33 iniii. 34 sec. N. and in 17 deg. 12 min. W. loncj! tude. We deduced the longitude from In- i»ar observations, and Mr. Wales reduced tlhe same for the town by Mr Kendal's watch, which makes the longitude of Funchiale, 17 de(?. 10 min, 14 sec. W. Towards tlie sea it IS fortified by a high wall, with a bjit. tery of cannon, besides a castle on the Loo, which is a rock standing in the water at a small disti^nce from the shore. This town is the only place of trade, and indeed the only place where it is possible for a boat to land : and even here the beach is covered with large stones, and a violent surf conti. nually beats upon it. The only good time for landing is before the sea-breeze comes on. The town is very populous, out the majority of the inhabitants are not natural bnrii Portuguese; for a ^»-'„'at number of English and French Roman catholics settled tth^re, who live after the Portuguese manner; some English protestants, and a prodigious number of negroes and mulattoes, both free. men and slaves. The streets are straight, and drawn by a line, and their houses are Kretty well built ; their churches are well uilt beautiful structures, enriched with gilding, fine pictures, and plate, and peo- ple are said to meet in them upon business that has little relation to devotion. Those women who have no domestic chapels, never go to church but on Sundays and holidays; when, if there be several daughters, they walk two and two before the mother, each having a large thin vail over her face : but their breasts and shoul- ders are quite bare. By their side walks a venerable old man, with a string of beads in his hand, and armed with a sword and dagger. This town is the see of a bishop, who has the whole Island under his spiri- tual jurisdiction, and issuflragan to thearih- bishop of Lisbon. The governor of the Is- land also resides here. In the Island are two other towns ; one called Manchico, which has a church nam- ed Sunta Cruz, or the Holy Cross and • ; AND ROUND THE WORLD. 1«» k tS roiwent of Bernard! ne*friars; the otb«»r town is named Moncerito. In short, the Island lately contained thirty-six parishes, a college, and a monastery of Jesuits, five other monasteries, eiurhty-two hermitages, and five hospitals. There are several fine seats and castles about the country, in which tlie merechants chiefly reside. The ordinary food of the poorer people, in the time of vintage, is little else than bread and rich grapes ; and were it not for their til)stemiousness, fevers in the hot seasons wonld be frequent ; therefore even the rich, in the hot months are very moderate intheir diet and drinking. The generality of the people affect great gravity in their deport- ment, and usually dress in black ; but they cannot dispense with the spado and dagger, which even servants wear ; so that you may see a footman waiting at table with a sword at least a yard long, and a great basket hilt to it. The houses in general are plain, as the inhabitants put themselves at no great expence in furnishing them. The windows are secured by wooden shutters at night, and instead of being glazed, are latticed. With respect to their marriages, affection is never considered, the principal inquiries are into family descent and circumstances ; the women are prohibited from marrying Eng- lishmen, unless the latter consent to em- brace the Roman catholic religion. Mur- ders are very frequent, on account of the great numbers of places deemed sanctuaries, and the ease with which a murderer can thereby screen himself from justice. But if the criminal is taken before he can reach the sanctuary, the punishment is only either banishment or imprisonment, both which, by a pecuniary composition, may be evaded. Here are a ^reat number of clergy, who are generally rich ; hut none who are de- scended from Moors or Jews are admitted to take orders. The churches are made repositories for the dead, and the corpse is curiously dressed and adorned : yet in the interment, store of lime is used, in order to consume the body as speedily as possible, which usually happens in a fortnight: so that there is then room for another cor{>se. The bodies of protestants are not allowed to be buried, but must be thrown Into the sea ; nevertherless they are permitted to be interred in consecrated ground, prqvided a handsome sum of money is paid to the cleray. Puerto Santo is generally termed one ofthe Madeira Islanrince Henry, son to John I. king of Portu- gal, to double Cape Rajador, in order to make farther discoveries ; but being sur- prised by a violent storm, were driven out to sea, and, when they gave theniselves over for lost, had the happiness to find this I»b land, wliich proving a safe asylum to them, they called it Puerto Santo, or the Holy Port. This Island produces wheat and other corn, just sufficient for the support of the inhabitants: here also are plenty of oxen, wild hogs, and a vast number of rabbits. There are trees which produce the gum call- ed dragon's blood, and likewise a little honey and wax, wliich are extremely good. It has properly no harbour, but there is good mooring in the road which affords a convenient retreat for ships going to Africa, or coming from the Indies ; so that mer* chantmen often stop there, which aflbrds considerable profit to the inhabitants, who are desceiuled from the Portuguese, to whom the l^sland is subject. The inhabi- tants are all Roman catholics, being undei the spiritual jurisdiction of the bishop of Fonchal in Madeira. They would live a very quiet life, were It not for the pirates, who often iwy them troublesome visits. In the year 1617, they landed here, and carried off six hundred and sixty-three prisoners, besides plundering the place. There is a little Island called the Desarf, which produces only orchil la-weed, and some goats are on it : it lies on the east-side of Madeira, at about six leagues distance. On Saturday the 1st of August, having stowed on board a supply of water, win«» 190 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, and otlier necensanes, we set sail, lost sight of Madeira, and stood to tlie southward, with a gentle gale at N. E. On Tuesday the 4th, we saw the pleasant Island of Pal* ma, bearing S. S. W. distant about three or four leagues. This is one of the Canary Isles. It may be seen, on account of its height, twelve or fourteen leagues at sea, andlies in latitude 28 deg. 38 min. N. and in 17 deg. 58 min. W. longitude. On Wed- nesday, tlie 5th, we passed the Isle of Ferro, at the distance of fourteen leagues. The Island of Palma lies about fifty miles to the W. of Teneriffe, and two hundred W. of tlie continent of Africa. It is about thirty miles long, twenty broad, and seventy in circuit. On the. N. E. part of the Island, within land, is a high and spacious mountain, steep on all sides. Tiiis is called La Cal- dera, or the cauldron, from a hollow like thsiton the peak of Teneriffe. The summit " is about two leagues in circumference, and on the inside, the cauldron descends gradu- ally from thence to the bottom, which is a space of about thirty acres. On the decli- vity of the inside spring several rivulets, whidh joining together at the bottom, issue in one stream through a passage to the out- side of the mountain from which this brook descends ; and having run some distance from thence, turns two sugar-milts. The water of tliis stream is unwholesome, on ac- count of its being mixed with some water of a pernicious quality in the cauldron ; all the inside of wnich abounds with herbage, and is covered with palms, pitch-pine, laurel, lignum-rhodium. and retainas; which la.st have in this Island a yellow bark, and grow to the size of large trees; but in the others they are only shrubs. The people here take great care not to let the he-goats feed on the leaves of the retama, on account of their breeding a stone in the bladder, which is mortal. Two rivulets spring on the outside of tlie oauidron ; one of these runs north- ward to the village of St. Andrew, and turns two sugar-mills, and the other runs to the; town of Pahnas, which lies to the eastward. These are the only rivulets or streams of any consequence in the Islantl : on which ^iccount the natives build tanks, or sqaare reservoirs with planks of piteh-pme, which they make tight with caulking. 'Ihese they fill with the torrents of rain-water that in the winter sea.son rush down from the mountains, and preserve it for themselves and cattle : but the sheep, goats, and hogs, in olaces at a distanv« from the rivulets' feed almost all the year round on the root.^ of fern and asphfidil, and theretbre have little or no need of water, there being mois- ture enough in those roots to supply the want of that element. Though the south quarter of the Island is most destitute of water, yet there is a medicinal well of hot water so close to the sea-shore, that the tide flows into it at full sea. At Uguer is a cave, that has a long narrow entrance, sostraight that people pass through it backwards, with their face to the mouth of the cave ; but after they have got through this passage, they enter a spacious grotto, where water distils from between the large flakes of slate stones that hang from the roof; the least blow given to these, resounds with a noise like thunder through the cave. In the district of Tifuya is a mountain, which appears to have been removed by an earthquake from its original situation. The natives have a tradition, that the spot on which it now stands was a plain, and the most fertile spot in the whole Island, till it was destroyed by the burning lava, and the fall of the mountain. Indeed, the effects of vol canoes are to be seen in almost everyi part of the Island ; for the channels where the burning matter, melted ores, and calcin- ed stones and ashes ran, may be easily dis- tinguished by a curious observer. Kuiino de Penna, in his Historical Memoirs, relates, that on the 13th of November 1677, a little after sun-set, the earth shook for thirteen leagues with a dreadful noise, that conti- nued five days, during which it opened in several places ; but the greatest gap was upon the mountain of La Caldera, a mile and a half from the sea, from whence pro- ceeded a great fire, which cast up stones and pieces of rock. The like happened in several places thereabouts, and in Itss than a quarter of an hour were twenty-eight gaps about tb« foot of the mountain, which cait AND ROUND THE WORLD. IDl vliich riiese r that n the selves hojjfs, vulets, : roots i have mois- ►ly tlie soulli tute oi of hot lie tide narrow h rough mouth trough grotto, e large om the esounds le cave, untain, by an The [spot on nd the |1, till it ntl the effects it every, |s where calcin- iilv dis- iJuiino relates a little Itbirtetn it conti- neA in ^ap was a inil€ |nce pro- stones iened in Iss than tht gaps IcU cait forth a1)undnnce of flames and burning stones. The same person add», that on the 30th of November following there was a second eruption of the same mount, from whence came forth stones and fire, with great earthquakes and thunders for several days, so that black cinders were taken up flt seven leagues distance : the adjacent ground was entirely wasted, and tlie inhabi- tants forced to quit their dvvellings. The last volcano that happened in this Island was in 1750, when one of these rivers of fire ran, with great rapidity, from the moun- tains towards the town of Palmas, and dis- charged itself about a mile to the north- ward of the town, but we have not learnt that any considerable eruption hath happen- ed since that time. If we take a view of Palma at the dis- tance of three league? off at sea, the moun- tains seem full of gutters r beds formed by torrents of rain water ; but these only ap- pear little from their height and distance; for we find them to be large vallies, abound- ing with woods, on a nearer apprdach. In many places on the shore of this and the other Islands, is found the black shining sand used to throw upon writing, to prevent its blotting. It appears to have been cast out of voTcanos, for the load'-stone, when held near it, will draw up every grain of it. The air, weather, and winds, are nearly the same as at Teneriffe and Canaria, except that the westerly winds and rain are more frequent at^Palma, on account of its lying more to the wes^'ward and northward, and on that accoun. is not so far within the verge of the N. E. trade winds as those Is- lands ; whence it is particularly exposed to the S. wind, which mostly prevails in the latitudes adjacent to those of the N. E trade- winds, as well as to variable winds from other quarters The climate here, and in. Teneriffe, Ca- naria, and Gomera, differs greatly, accor- ding as a person lives in the mountains, or near the >sea shore. During a calm, the heat seems almost intolerable near the shore, in the months of July, August, and Septem- ber ; but the air is at the same time quite fresh and pleasant on the mountains. In 7 the middle of winter the houses upon these (some of which are near the clouds ) must be extremely cold, and the natives keep fires burning m their habitations all day long: but this is far from being the case near tiie sea, where they use fires only in their kitch* ens. The summits of all the Canary Isles, except Lancerotii and Fnerteventura, arc generally covered with snow for eiuht months in the year. The summit of Pijjma fi)rmerly abounded with trees, but a great drought ill 154.'> destroyed them all ; and though others began to spring np some time aflter, they were destroyed by the rabbits and other animals, which finding no pas- ture below, went up t'-are, and destroyed all the young shrubs and trees, so that the upper part of Uie Island is at pre.'^ent quite bare and desolate. Before the trees and shrubs were destroyed, a great deal of manna fell there, which the natives gather- ed and sent to Spain. The rabbits were first brought to Palma by Don Pedro Fer- nandez jcle Lago, the learned lieutenant ge- neral of*Teneritte, and have since increased in a surprising manner. Palma atTords nearly the same produc- tions as Canaria, but a great quantity of sugar is made here, particularly on the S. W. side of the Island, The principal port is called by the same name, and is situated on the south side of the Island. The road is about a quarter of a mile from the shore, where vessels generally ride in fifteen or twenty fathoms water ; and with good an- chors and cables, notwithstanding the east- erly winds, they may ride with great safety in all the winds that blow in this part oi the worjd. The town is large, containing two parish churches, several convents, with many private buildings, though they are neith'^r so good nor so large as those in the city of Palmas in Canaria, or of the towns in Teneriffe. Near the mole is a castle or battery, mounted with some pieces of can non, for the defence of the ships in the bay, and to prevent the landing of an enemy. There are no other towns of note in Palma ; but many villages, the chief of which is call- ed St. Andrew, where there are four engines lor tbe making of sugar ; but the laud her* W2 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, U Is very poor, so that the inhabitants upplied trom tlie Island of Teneritte MbouU are su. . with (('rain and other necessary articles. For the amusement of uninformed readers, xve shall here add an account of the Island of Ferro, and also a particular description of the present natives of the Islands of Ca- naria, Teneritfe, Pal ma, Gomera, and Ferro, their persons, habit, diet, buildings, manners, customs, &c. The Spaniards call the Island of Ferro, Ilierro, and the French the Isle de Fer, or the Island of Iron : it is the most westerly of all the Canaries, and is about thirty miles long, fifteen broati, and seventy-five in cir- cumference. The French navigators formerly placed in the centre of this Island their first meridian for reckoning the longitude, as the Dutch did theirs at the peak of Tenerifle ; bat at present most geographers re(;kon their fii'?it meridian from the capital of their own country, as the English from London, the French from Paris, &c. It being more eon^cnfent, and conveying a more distinct idea to say, that such a place is so many leagues distant E. or W. from the capital of his own country, than to reckon the lon- gitude frmn a distant land. This Island of Ferro rises on all sides steep and craggy from the sea-shore above a league, so as to render the apcent ex- tremely difficult and fatiguein;^ ; but after travelling thus far, the rest of the Island will be found to be tolerably level and fruitful, abounding with many kinds of trees and shrubs, and producing better grasst herbs, and flowers, than any of the other Islands, whence bees thrive and mul- tiply here in a very extraordinary manner, and excellent honey is made by them. TJjere are but few springs in the whole Is- land ; and on account of the scarcity of wat<*r, the sheep, goats, and swine, do not drink in summer, but quench their thirsts at that season, by digging up and chewing the roots of fern. The great cattle are watered at a place where water distils from the leaves of a tree. Many authors have miide mention of this tree, some of whom repre- sent it as miraculous; while others deny its very existence: but the author of the history of the discovery and conquest of the Canary Islands, gives a particular ac« count of it, which we shall here insert for the satisfaction of the curious. In the cliff or steep rocky ascent by which the whole Island is surrounded, is a narrow gutter which commences at the sea, and is continued to the summit of the clifl', where it joins, or coincides, with a valley terminated by the steep front of a rock, on the top of whicli grows a tree call, ed ill the language of the ancient inhabi- tants gurse, or sacred, which for manv years has been preserved entire, sound, and fresLi. Its leaves constantly distil so great a quaii. tity of water, that it is sufficient to furni.sli drink to every living creature in Hiewo, nature having provided this remedy for the drought of the Island. It is distinct fi'oin other trees, and stands by itself: its trunk is about twelve spans in circumference ; its height from the ground to the top of the liigTiest branch is forty spans, and the cir- cumference of all the branches together is one hundred and twenty feet. Tne bran- ches are thick and extended, and the low- est begin about the height of an ell from the ground. Its fruits resembles an acorn, but tastes like the kr* nel of a pine-apple, only it is softer, and more aromatic ; and the leaves resembles those of the laurel, but are larger, wider, and more curved. These come forth in a perpetual succession, whence the tree always remains green. Near il grows a thorn, which fastens on many of its branches, with which it is interwoven, and some beech trees, bresos, and thorns, are at a small distance from it. On the north side of the trunk are two large tanks or cisterns of rough stone, or ratlier one cis- tern divided ; each half being twenty fee{ square, and sixteen spans deep. On« of these contains water for the drinking »f the inhabitants, and the other that which they use for their cattle, ^washing, and the like purposes. A cloud or mist rises from the sea every morning, which the soutli and easterly winds force against the above mentioned steep clifT; when the cloud having no vent but by the gutter, gradually ascends it^ and AND ROUND THE WORLD. Ida. ie»t o( lar ac' ert for ent by (led, IB at the of the with a nt of a ee call* iuhabi- ly years (J tresli. a quan* furnisti Hiewo, ^ fur the net from ts trunk ence ; its >p of the 1 the cir- »gether is 'he bran- the low- ell from an acorn, ine-apple, [itic; and aurel, but i. Thtse 11, whence Near il any of its )ven, and Jioins, are [the north tanks or it one cis- ieniy feet One of kns «f ^l>^ Ihich they |l the like sea every easterly ^nentioned no vent rnclsit,and advanoes slowly "from thence to the extre- mity of the valley, and then rests upon the wide spreadin(^ branches of the tree, from whence it distils in drops during the re- mainder of the day, in the same manner as water drops from the leaves of trees after a heavy shower of rain. This distillation is not peculiar to the tree, for the bresos which }jrow near it also drop water; but their leaves being only few and narrow, the quan- tity is so trifling, that though the natives save some of it, yet they make little account of -any but what distils from the tree ; which, together with the water of some 8 )rings, is sutfif^jrnt to serve the natives and t leir cattle. It has been remarked; that this tree yields most water in those years when the easterly winds have most prevail- ed ; for by them alone the clouds or mists are drawn hither from the sea. A person lives near the spot on which the tree grows^ who is appointed by the council to take care of it and its water, and is allowed a certain salary, with a house to live in. He (lailjr distributes to each family of the district seven vessels filled with water, be- sides what he gives to the principal persons of the Island. Mr. Glass says, he is unable to determine whether the tree which yields water at pre- sent be the same here described, but justly observes, that it is probable there have been a succession of them. He himself did not see this tree, for this is the only Island of all the Canaries which he did not visit ; but he observet^, that he has sailed with the natives of Hierro, who, when questioned about the existence of this tree, answered in the af* j^nnative ; and takes notice, that trees yield- ing water are not peculiar to this Island, since one of the same kind in the Island of St. Thomas, in the gulf of Guinea, is men- tiokied by some travellers. By reason of a scarcity of water, the soil, in some parts of this Island, is very barren ; but in others it is fertile, and produces all the necessary articles for the support of the inhabitants. The sheep, goats, and hogs, that are brought up in those parts distant from the rivulets, feed almost all the year round on the roots of fern and asphodil, and therefore have little occasion for water, as the want of that element is supplied by the great moisture that is naturally m those roots. There is only one small town in this Is. land, and the most distinguislK>d building in it is a parish church. Many small vil- lages are dispersed about the town, but there are not any of them that deserve a particular description. Small cattle, brandy, honey and orchilla weed, are the chief articles of the trade carried on by the inhabitants of this Island. As to the original natives of the Island of Ferro we are told by travellers, that before it was rendered subject to Siiain they were of a middle stature, and clothed with the skins of beasts. The men wore a cloak of three sheep-skins sewed together, with the woolly side outwards in summer, anurt-yard, which is on the inside, is large or small according to the size of the build- ing, and is usually paved with flags, peb- bles, or other stones. In thv^ centre of the court is a square or circ\i1ar stone- wall about four feet high, filled with earth, in which are commonly planted orange, banana, or other trees common in these parts. The lower stoiyofeach quarter of the house consists entirely of store-rooms, or cellars. Th« stairs leading to the seeond atory usnally begin at the right or left hand corner of tht entrance of the court, and consist of two flights of steps, which lead into the gallery, from which one may enter any room on tlie second story. The principal apartments are generally in that quarter af the house facing the street, which contains a hall with an apartment at each end. These rooms are the whole breadth of the quarter, and the hall is twice the length of any of tht apartments at its extremities, llie win< dows of these rooms are forRjC«! of wooden lattices, curiously wrought ; none of them looking inwards to the court ; but they are all in the outside wall. Some great houses have balconies in the middle of the front, on the outside above the gate, equal with the floor of the second story ; and some have a gallery which runs from one end of the front to the other, but the outside of the house has seldom any. They white-wash all the apartments ; and those at the extre> mities of the great halls, with some of the rest, are lined with fine mats abuut five feet high, and the floor is sometimes covered with the same. The sides of the windows of all the rooms are lined with boards to prevent people's clothes being whitened ; for they commonly sit in the window, thers being benches on each side of it for that purpose ; and when the master of the house intends to shew a stranger respect, he always conducts him to the window, to con- verse with him. The great hall, and the walls of some of the apartments, are hung with paintings, representing the virgin, the tvyelve apostles, saints and martyrs, usually drawn as large as life, and distinguished by some circumstance of their history. Thus St. Pefer is usually represented looking at a cock and weeping, and a ^reat bunch of keys always hangs at his girdle. St. An- tbony preaching to the fishes, is one of their favourite paintings. Their beds have sel- dom any curtains, for these they consider as receptacles for fleas and bugs, which abonud here extremely. They chiefly use mattresses spread on the floor upon fine mats , besides the sheets, there is a blanket and above that a silk quilt. ^^The sbestsi AND ROUND THE WORLD. 107 oftht f two illery, >n tlie inents house I with rooms r. and of tht i win* I'ooden f them covered windows turds to led ; for /, there Tor that e house ct, he to con* nd the e hung ;iii, the usually ihed by Thus ing at iiiich of St. An* of their ive sel* lonsider which fly use jon fine [blanket sbMtSf nillows, and auilt art frequently fringed or pinked, like the shrouds used ibr the dead with us. There is a place in a particular apartment, raised a step higher than the floor, covered with mats or carpets; and there the women generally f>it togeti.er upon cushions, both to receive visits from their own sex, and give dirf^ctions concerning rlieir household aflairs. The houses of the peasants and lower sort of people^ though only one story high, are built of stone and lime, and the roofs are either thatched or tiled. These are generally neat, clean and commodious. Indeed there is tMit little dirt or dust in these Islands to make them uncleanly ; for the ground is mostly rocky, and seldom wet, from the almost continual fine weather. The deportment of the natives is grave, bnt at the same time tempered with great quickness and sensibility ; the women in particular, are remarkable for their spri^ht- liness, and vivacity of their conversation, which is said greatly to exceed that of the English, French, or northern nations. The rreat families in these Islands would ^e highly oflended should any one tell them, they are descended from the Moors, or even from the ancient inhabitants of these Is- lands ; yet it would not perhr^s be difli- cult to prove, that most of their customs have been handed down to- them from those >eople. The gentry boast much of their irtli, and indeed that they are descended from the best families in Spain, there is no reason to doubt. Hiey have the utmost contempt for the employment of a butcher, taylor, millenor porter. It is not indeed very surprising, that they should not have any great esteem for the profession of a butcher, or that the employmentof a taylor should be consider- ed as some what too eflerainate for a man ; but it is difti(Hilt to imaqfine why millers ai?d porters should be despised, especially the former ; but it must be considered, that the millers here are generally esteemed frreat thieves ; and as the master of everv family sends his own corn to be ground, unless it be narrowly watched, the miller will fake too muck tod. It is said when C any criminal is to sufler death, and the tx- ecutioner happens to be out of the way, the oflicers of justice have the power of seizing the first butcher, miller, or porter they can find, and of obliging him to discharge Uiat oflice; such is then* dislike to persons of these occupations. Mr. Glass, once touch- ing at the Island of Gomera to procure fresh water, hired some poor ratjgec^ fishermen to fill the water casks, and bring then> on board ; but some time after, going to the watering place to see what progress they had made, he found the casks full, and all readv for rolling down to the beach, with the fishermen standing by, talking together, as if they had nothing farther t*t do. Ue reprimanded them for their laziness in not dispatching the business in which he had employed them; when one of iiieui, with a disdainful air, replied, " AVhat do you take us tO' he. Sir? Do you imagine we are por- ters? No, Sir, we are seamen." Notwith- standing all his entreaties and uromises of reward, he was unable to prevail upon any of them to roll the cask to the. water side ; but was at last obliged to hire porters, to do the business. But the gentry of these Is- lands, though for the most part poor, yet are extremely polite and well bred, the very peasants and labouring people have a con- siderable share of go»d manners, with little of that surly rusticity which is too common among the lower class of people in England, yet they do not seem to be abashed in the presence of their superiors. A begi^fur asks charity of a gentleman, by sayi..«c, "For the love of God, Sir, please to give me half a rial;" and if the other gives him nothing, he returns, " For the love of God, I beg your worship's pardon," and then departs. The CQ/nmon people and servants here are much addicted to private piircrinur, for which they are usually punished by being discharged the service, beaten, or imprison- ed for a ghort time. Highway robberies are seldom or never known ; but murder is more common than in England : and they have no notion of duels, for they cannot imagine that because a man has the courage to fight, he thereby atones tor the injury dene to another, or that it ought to give him 198 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, a right to do him a greater. When the mur- derer has killed a man, he flies to a church for refuge, till he can find an opportunity to escape to another Island ; and if he had been greatly provoked or injured by the deceased, and did not kill him designedly, every body will be ready to assist him to escape, except the near relations of the per- son who has lost his life; yet quarrels are far from being frequent here, which may be owing to the wsint of taverns and other Imblic houses, their polite behaviour, the ittle intercourse there is between them, and their temperance in drinking. Persons of the lower class never light in public, but if one person puts another into a violent pas- sion, the injured party, if able, takes his revenge in the best manner he can, till he thinks he has had satisfaction, without any regard to the equity of the method he uses for this purpose. The inhabitants of the Canary Islands are in general extremely temperate ; or at least, if they are otherwise, it is in private only ; for nothing can be a greater disgrace there, than to be seen drunk ; and a man who can be proved a drunkard, is not per- mitted to give evidence, or take his oath, in a court of judicature. Hence those that are fond of liquor, intoxicate themselves in their chambers, and then lie down, in order to sleep till they are sober. Those of all ranks m these Islands are extremely amorous ; but their notions of love are pretty singular, which may perhaps be attributed to the want of mnocent freedom between the sexes. However, they do not seem to be inclined to jealously, any more than the English or French. It i; usual for young |>eople here to fall in love at sight ; and if Ihe parties agree to marry, btit find their parents averse to their union, they complain io the curate of the parish, who goes to the house where the girl lives, and endeavours to persuade them to agree to her marriage ; but if thev refuse to consent to their union, he takes her away before their faces, with- out their being able to hinder him, and either places her in a convent, or with some of her relations, where she must remain till they consent to her marriage. We have been informed that a lady will sometimes send a man an ofler of her person in an honourable way ; if he declines it, he keeps the matter secret till death, should ho do otherwise, he would be looked upon by all people in the most despicable ligfit. Young men are not allowed to court the youth of the other sex without an intention to marry thenri ; for if a woman can prove that a man has in any instance, endeavoured to engage her afl^eotions, she can oblige him to marry her. This, like many other good laws, is abused ; for loose women taking advantage of it, frequently lay snares to entrap the simple and unwary ; and .sometimes worth- less young men, form designs upon the for- tunes of ladies, without having the least regard for their persons ; there are not how- ever, many mercenary lovers in this part of the world, their notions in general being too refined and romantic to admit the idea of that passion being made subservient to their ambition or interest-; and vet there are more unhappy marriages here than in the couii' tries where innocent freedom being allowed between the sexes, lovers are not so blinded by their passions, as not to perceive the frailties and imperfections of their mistresses. On the death of a man's wife, it is usual for some of his relations to come to his house, and reside with him for some time, in order to divert his ^rief, and do not leave him till another relation conies to relieve the first, the second is relieved by a third, and thus they succeed each other for the space of a year. Each of the Canary Islands, as well as every town and family, bath a peculiar tute- lary saint for its patron, wb -e day is cele- brated as a festival, by a sc< mon preached in honour of the saint, and a service suited to tlie occasion. Or these days, the str-^et near the churcli is strewed with flowers and leaves, a multitude* of wax candles are ligjit-i ^d, and a considerable number of fire works played off. A kind of fair is generally held on the eve of these festivals, to vvl.ich the people of the adjacent country resort, and spend the great- est part of the night in mirth and dancint; to the sound of the guitar, accompanied \1 AND ROUND THE WORLD. 190 with tlje voices not only of those \yho play on that instrument, but by those of the dan- cers. The dances practised here are sara- bands and folias, which are slow dances; those which are quick are the canario, first used by the Canarians ; the fandango, which is chiefly practised by the vulgar; and the rapetes, which nearly reseaibles our hornpipe. Some of these dancers may be termed dramatic, as the men sing verses to their partners, who answer them in the same manner. Most of tlie natives of these Is- lands can play on the guitar, and. they have in jreneral excellent voices. For the entertainment of the populace^ plays are acted in the streets, at the feasts of the tutelar saints of Teneritfe, Cauaria, and Palma; but the performers cannot be supposed to rise to any degree of perfection, as they are not professed actors, and only some of the inhabitants of the place seein to have a natural turn for acting. The gentry frequently take the air on horseback ; but when the ladies are obliged to travel, they ride on asses, and instead of a saddle, they use a kind of chair, in which they sit very commodiously. The principal roads are paved with pebble-stones,, like those used in the streets of London. There are a few chariots in Canaria, the town of Santa Cruz, and the city of Laguna in Te- neritte; these are all drawn by mules, but they are kept rather for show than use ; for thii roads are not proper for wheel carriages, being steep and rocky.. The lower class of people divert themselves with dancing sing- ing, and playing on the guitar; likewise with throwing.a ball through. a ring placed at a great distance, cards, wrestling, and quoits. The peasants, particularlj^ those of Gomera, have the art of leaping from rock to rock when they travel, which is thus per-' formed : the long staff or pole used on these occasions, has an iron spike at the end of it, and when a man wants to descend from one rock to another, he aims the point of the pole at the place where he intends to alight, and then throws himself towards it, pitching the end of the pole so as to bring it to a per- pendicular, and then slides down it to the rock on which he fixed it. In the convents, children are taught tread- ing, writing, Latin, arithmetic, logic, and other branches of philosophy. The scho- lars read the classics ; but the Greek ia never taught here, and is entirely unknown even to the students in divinity. They are particularly fond of civil law and logic, but the latterjs chiefly preferred. The people belonging to these Islands have a genius for poetry, and compose verses of different measures, which tJiey set to* music. Some of their songs, and other poe- tical pieces, would be greatly esteemed in a country where taste for poetry prevails. Few of those books called profane (to distinguish them from those of a religious kind) are read here, since they cannot be imported into tli& Island without being first examined by the inquisition ; a court which nobody cares to have any concern with. The history of the wars in Granada is in every body's handsj and is read by people of ail ranks ; they have also some plays, most of which are very good. Thomas a Kempis, and the Devout Pilgrim, are in every library, and much admired. But the books most read by the laity are the Lives of the Saints and 3Iartyrs, which may be corisidered as a kind of religious romances, stulfed with legends, and the most absurd and improbable stories. With respect to the civil government of the Islands of Canaria, Tenerifie^ and Pal* ma, which are called the king.'s Islands, it will be proper to observe, in the first place* that the natives, on their submitting to the crown of Spain, were so far from being de- prived of their liberty, that they were put on an equality with their conquf^rors in which the Spaniards shewed great wisdom and policy; but how they came afterwards to act in a quite contrary manner in Ame«- rica, is hard to determine: perhaps they might be apprehensive, that if they proceed- ed with too much rigour against them at first, they might in time be induced to shake off the yoke, and dispossess their tyrannical masters, which we are informed, by late events, has proved to be the case in South America; as the following piece of intelli- gence, published in September 1782, an- nounces : " You have repeatedly heard it 200- VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, reported, that there was a rebellion in Chili and Peru, in 'South America ; and though tiie Spaniards do all they can to keep it a secret, I can assure you, from undoubted authority, that all the mines in Peru and the city of Pez, which is situated in the in- terior part of the countiy, where they lodged their bars of gold and silver, and other valu- ables, are taken from them, and there were one hundred and fitly millions of piastres taken out of the strong chests. Tlie natives will very soon have the whole country in their possession, for they destroy every white man, woman, and child, and even kill every one begot between a Spaniard and a native." But to return. After the conquest of the Canary Islands, the Sfmniards incorporated with tiie natives in such a manner as to be- come one people with them, and in conse- quence of this political union, the king of Spain is able to raise in these Islands more soldiers and seamen than in any other part of his dominions of three times their extent. The alcade, who is a justice of peace, is the lowest officer except the alguazils; there is one of them in every town or village of note. These magistrates are appointed by thero^^al audience of the city ot Palmas, in Canaria : they bold their places only for a certain time, and, in cases of property, can take cognizance of no disputes where the value of what is contended for exceed seven- teen rials, or seven shillings sterling;. Over these magistrates is the alcade major, who is appointed in the same manner as the other, and cannot decide any case relating to property, that exceeds the sum of two hundred dollars. From the decisioii of those magistrates, appeals lie to the tiniente and corregidor : the nrst of whom is a law- yer, and nominated by the royal audience ; but the latter, who is appointed by the king, is not obliged to be a lawyer, yet must have a secretary, clerk, or assistant bred to the law. The corregidor generally holds liis J dace five years, and sometimes longer, ^'ew of the natives enjoy this honourable office, which is commonly filled by Spa- niards. The proceedings of the corregidoi^s cou t, and in that of the tiniente, are the same; these courts seeming to have been 8 originally intended as a check upon eacli other. Appeals are made from the corregi. dor tiniente to the royal audience of Grand Canaria ; a tribunal composed of three oidores, or judges, a regent, and fiscal, who arc usually natives of Spain, and are always appointed by the kin^. The governor-ge. neral is president of this court, though he resides in Tenerifie. In criminal causei there is no appeal from tbeir determination : but appeals are carried to the council or audience of Seville in Spain, in matters re specting property. In the Canary Islands, the standing force* amount only to about an hundred and fifty men ; but there is a militia of which the governor-general of the Island is always commander in chief, and the officers, as colonels, captains, and subalterns, are ap- {pointed by the king. There are also gover- nors of torts and castles, some of which are appointed by the king, and others by the twelve regidors of ^e Islands, called the cavildo ; some of ttie forts belong to the king, and the rest are under the direction of the regidors, or sub-governors, who also take care of the repair of the high-ways pre« ventjiuisances, and the plague from being brought into the Island by shipping; for no man is allowed to land m these Islands from any ship, till the master produces a bill of health from the last port, or till the crew have been examined by the proper officers. The royal revenue arises from the ibilowing articles: a third of the tithes, which scarcely amounts to a 4enth part of them, the clergy appropriating almost the whole to themselves. This ttiird part was given by the pope to tlie kin^ of Spain, in consideration of his maintaining a perpe* tnal war against the infidels, "rhe second branch consists in the monopoly of tobacco and smiff, which the king's officers sell on his account, no other persons being allowed to deal in those articles. Another branch of the revenue arises from the orchil la-weed, all of which in the Islands of Teneriffe, Canaria, and Pal ma, belong to the king, and is part of his revenue ; but the orchiifa of the other Islands belongs to their respec- tive proprietors. The fourth branch consinis AND ROUND THE WORLD. I < 301 of tl»e aclinowledifinent annually paid by Ihe nobility to the kinf»' tor their titles, which amounts to a mere trifle. The fitth branch is a duty of seven per cent, on im- ports and exjiorts: and the sixth duty on the Canary West India commerce. All these branches, the sixth excepted, are said not to brim? into the king's treasury above^ fifty thousand pounds per annum, clear of the expences of government, and all charges relating thereto. Having departed from Madeira on the 1st of August, on the 9th we crossed the Tropic of Cancer, and at nine in the morning came in sight of Bonavista, bearing S. W. by W. about two leagues. This day Capt. Cook made from the inspissated juice of malt three puncheons of beer. The proportion of wa- ter to juice was ten of the former to one of the latter. We had on board nineteen half barrels of inspissated juice, fifteen of which were made from wort that had been hopped before it was inspissated. This you may inix with cold water, in a proportion of one part of juice to eight of water, or one part to twelve ; then stojj it down, and in a ievt days it will be brisk and fit to drink ; but the first sort, after having been mixed as above directed, will require to be fermented with yeast, in the manner a.« is done in making beer; however, we found this not always necessary, as we at first imagined. This juice would be a most valuable article at sea, could it be kept from fermenting, which it did at this time by the heat of the we ither, and the agitation of the ship, that ull our endeavours to stop it were in vain. Oil Monday the 10th. we passed the Is- land of Mayo, on our starboard side, and at two P. M. came to an anchor, eighteen fa- thoms water, in Port Praya, in the fsle of St, Jago one of the Cape de Verds. An offi- cer was sent on shore for leave to procure what refreshments we wanted, which was readdy granted ; and on his return we salute p(l the fort with eleven guns. Here both ships were supplied with plenty of good wa- ter. We also recruited our live stock, suoh as hogs, goats, and poultry, some of which con- tinued alive during the remainder of the voyage , Dd The Ca|)e de Verd Islands are sitnated in 14 deir. 10 min. N latitude and !(> deg. 30 min. W. longitude. They were so called from a cape of the same name opposite to them, and were discovered by Anthony Noel, a Genoese, in the service of Portugal, in the year 1640, and are about twenty in number ; but some of them are only barren uninhabited rocks. The cape took its name from the pernetual verdure m ith which it i. 1 he Portuffuese ^w is covered. nve them the name of Les Ilhas de Verdes, either from the verdure of the Cape, or else fiom an herb called sargasso, which is green and floats on the water all round tiiein. His Portuguese majesty appoints a viceroy to govern them, who constantly resides in the Island of St. Jago. The IJutch call them the Salt Islands^ from the great quantities of that commodity produced in several of them. The principal of these are, 1. May, or Mayo ; 2, San Jago, or Saint James's ; 3. Sal or Salt; 4. Buena, or Bono Vista, or Good Sight ; 6. St. Philips's, otherwise call- ed Fuego, or the Island of Fire ; 6. St. John or San Juan ; 7. St. Nicholas ; 8. St Vin- ceni; 9. St. Anthony; 10. St Lucia; li. Brava. Their soil is very stony and barren ; the climate exceeding hot, and in some of them very nnwliolesome ; however, the principal part of them are fertile, and pro- duce various sorts of grain and tVuits, par- ticularly rice, maize, or Indian wheat, bana- nas, lemons, citrons oranges, pomegranates, cocoa-nuts, and figs. They have also cala- vances, a sort of pulse like French beans, and great quantities of pum[)kins, on which the inhabitants chiefly subsist. They pro- duce also two other fruits of a remarkable nature, viz. the custard apple, and the pa- pah. The former of these is as large as a pomegranate, and nearly of the same colour. The outside husk, shell, or rind, is in sub- stance and thickness between the .shell of a pomegranate, and the peel ofa Seville orange, softer than the former, yet more brittle than the latter. The coat or rind is also remarkable for being covered with small regular knobs or risings ; and the in- side of the fruit is full of a white soft pulp, which in its form, colour and taste, greatiK 203 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, resembles a enttardt from whence it received its name, which was probably first given it by the Europeans. It has in the middle a few .small black stones, but no core, for the whole of it is entire pulp. The tree that bears this fruit is about tne size of a quince- tree, and has long slender branches that spread a considerable way from the trunk. Only some of the branches bear fruit, for though these trees are large, yet in general such trees do not produce above twenty or thirty apples. The fruit grows at the ex- tremity of these branches, upon a stalk about nine or ten inches long. The other fruit, called the papah, is about the size of a musk melon, and resembles it in shape and colour both within and without ; onlv in the middle, instead of flat kernels, which the melons have, these I^ave a quantity of small blackish seeds, about the size of pei)- per-corns, the taste of which is much the same as that spice. The tree on which this fruit grows, is about ten or twelve feet high ; the trunk is thickest at the bottom, from whence it gradually decreases to the top, where it. is very thin and taper. It has not any small branches, but only large leaves, that grow immediately on the stalks from the body. The leaves are of a roundish form, and jagged about the edges, having their stalks or stumps longer or smaller, as they grow nearer or farther from the top : they begin to spring out of the body of the tree at about six or seven feet high from the gronnd, the trunk being below that entirely bare, and the leaves grow thick all the way from thence to the top, where they are very close and broad. The fruit grow only among the leaves, and most plentiful where the leaves are thickest ; so that towards the top of the trie the papahs spring forth from it in clusters. It is, however, to be observed, th"-^^ where they grow so thick, they are but «i.. ,11, being no bigger than ordinary tnr- 1/.^;^; whereas *' se nearer the middle of the . unk, where the leaves are not so thick, grow to the first mentioned size. Various sorts of poultry aboi'nid in these Islands, particularly curlews, Guinea hens, and flamingos, the latter of which are very numerous. The flamingo is a large bird, 2 much like a heron in shape* bnt bi^er^ and of a reddish colour ; they go in flocks but are so shy that it is very difHcult to catch them: they build their nests in shal. low ponds, where there is much mud, wliich they scrape together, making little hillocks, like small Islands, that a})pear about a foot and a half above the surface of the water. They make the foundations of these hillocks broad, bringing them up taper to the tup, where they leave a small hollow pit to lay their eggs in : they never lay more than two eggs, and seldom less. . The young one» cannot fly till they are almost full grown, but they run with surprising swiftness: their tongues are broad and long, having a large lump of fat at the root, which is deli- cious in its taste, and so greatly admirej, that a dish of them will produce a very con« siderable sum of money. Their flesh is lean, and of a dinjjy colour, but it neither tastes fishy, nor any ways unpleasant. JHere are also several other sorts of fowls, as pigeons and turtle doves ; miniotas, a sort of land fowl, as big as crows, of a grey colour, and the flesh well tasted ; crusias, another sort of grey-coloured fowl, almost as large as the former ; these are only seen in the night, and their flesh is said to be exceeding salutary to people in a decline, by whom they are used. They have likewise great plenty of partridges, quails, and other small birds, and rabbits in prodigious num- bers. Many wild animals abound here, particu. larly lions, tigers and camels, the latter of which are remarkably large. There are also ^reat numbers of monkies, baboons, and civet-cats, and various kinds of reptiles. The tame animals are horses, asses, sheep, mules, cows, ^oats and hogs ; and here the European ships bound for the East Indies, usually stop to take in fresh water and pro. visions, with which they are always plentj. fully supplied. Fish of various sorts abound in the sea, particularly dolphins, bonettas, mullets, snappers, silver nsh, &c. and here is such plenty of turtle, that several foreign ships come yearly to catch them. In the wet season the turtles go ashore to lay their eggs AND ROUND THE WORLD. 2m nocks, xmlt to II shaU , wliich lillocks, t a font i water. Iiillocks the tup, t to lay han \yio ,i)g ones I grown, vit'tness ; laving a is (leli- admired, very con- flesh is t neither [\i. Here fowls, as IS, a sort of a grey : crusias, I, almost only seen aid to be ecline, by likewise ind othef ous nuin- , particu. latter of ;'here are baboons.. reptiles. \es, sheep, here the 1st Indies, and pro* |iys plenti- the sea, mullets, le is such ]ign ships the wet iheiT eggs {n the sand, which they leave to be hatched i)y the heat of the sun. The ilesh of the tiu'tles, well cured, is as great a supply to the American |)lantations, as cod-fish is to Europe. The mhabitants go out by night and catch the turtles, by turning them on their hacks with poles ; for they ai-e so large that they cannot do it with their hands. In these Islands are man^ European fa<' mihes, all of whom profess the Roman Catholic religion. The natives are all ne- croes, and much like their African neigh- bours from whom they are supposed to be descended ; though, as they are subject to the Portuguese, ttieir own religion and lan- guage prevail among them. Both men and women are stout, and well limbed, and they are in general of a civil and quiet disposi- tion, ^rheir dress (particularly in the Is- land of St. John) is very trifling, consisting only of a piece of cotton cloth wound round the waist. The women sometimes throw it over the head* and the men across the shoulders. Neither sex wear shoes or stockings, except on certain festivals. The men . are particularly fond of wearing breeches, if they can get them, and are very happy if they have but a waistband and flap before, be they ever so ragged. The Island of Mayo, or May, obtained its name from its being discovered on the first of that month. It is situated in 15 deg. 5 min. N. latitude, near 300 miles from Cape Verd, and is about 17 miles in cir- cumference. The soil is in general very barren, and water scarce; however, here are plenty of cows, goats, and asses ; and also some corn, yams, potatoes and plan- tains. The trees are situated on the sides of the hills, and the natives have some wa- ter-melons and tigs. The sea likewise abounds with wild fowl, fish and turtle. There ^rows on this Island, as well as on most ol the others, a kind of veuretabie stone extremely poreus, of a greyish colour, which boots up ill stems, and forms something ike the head of a cauliflower. On the west side (»f the Island is a sand- hank that runs two or three miles along the shore, within which ii a large salina, or salt- uond^ encompassed by tli« saud-bank, and 3 the hills beyond it. The whole saIt-])oud is about two miles in length, and half a mile wide; but the greater part of it is generally dry. The north end, which is always sup- Klied with water, produces salt from Novem- er till May, those months being the dry season of the year. The waters yield this salt out of the sea, through a hole in the sand-bank, and the quantity that flows into it is in proportion to the height of the tides : in the common course it is very gentle, but when the spring tides arise, it is supplied in, abundance. If there is any salt in the pond, when the flush of water comes in, it soon dissolves ; but in two or three days aAer it begins to congeal, and so continues till a fresh supply of water from the sea comes in again. A considerable trade for salt is car^ ried on by the English, and the armed ships destined to secure the African commerce, afford the vessels thus engaged their pFO^ tection. The inhabitants of the Island are principally employed in this business dur^ mg the season : they rake it together, and wheel it out of the pond in barrows, from whence they convey it to the sea-side on the backsofas.ses, which animals are very nu- merous here. The pond is not above half a mile from the landing-place ; so that they go backwards and forwards many times in the day ; but they restrain themselves to a certain number, which they seldom exceed. There are several sorts of fowl, particu« larly flamingos, curlews, and Guinea hens. Their chief cattle are cows, gual^^ and hogs, which are reckoned the best in u)] the Cape de Verd Inlands. Besides the fruits above mentioned, they have calavances and pump- kins, which are the common food of th« inhabitants. The inhabitants of this fslafid five in three small towns, the principal of which is called Pimont, and contains two churches, with as many priests ; theother is called St John, and has one church; and the third, which has a church also, is called l^gos. The houses are very mean, small, and Tow ; they are built with the wood of the flg-tree(that being the only one fit for the purpose that grows on the Island) and the rafters are made of a sort of wild cane which grows here. ^ot VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLK The Portu£?uese governor of St. Ja«fo grants the patent to the neyro ifovernor of this Island, whose sitnutiun is tolerably ad- vantHgeoiis, as every commander that lades salt here is oblit^ed to coni|>liment him with a present. He spends most of his time ivith the English in the salting season, vvliioh is his harvest, and a very bnsy tiiue with all the natives. These people have not any vessels of their own, nor do any Portngnese ships come iiither, so that the English are the chief on whom they depend^ for trade ; and though they are sni)jects of Portugal, they have a particular esteem for the English nation. Asses are also a great commodity of trade here ; and are so plen- tiful, that several Eiu'opean ships from Bar- badoes and other plantations, come annu- ally to freight with them to carry thither. The Island of St. Jago, or St. James's Is- land, is situated about four leagues to the westward of Mayo, between the 15th and IGth deg. N. lat. and in the 23rd, of VV. long. This Island is the most fruitful and best inhabited of all the Cape de Verd Is- lands, notwithstanding it is very mountain- ous, and iias a great deal of barren land in it. The principal town is called after the name of the Island, and is situated in 15 i\es- N. latitude. It stands against the pides of two mountains, between which there is a deep valley two hundred yards wide, that runs within a small space of the «ea. In that part of the valley next the sea is a straggling street, with houses on each side, and a rivulet of water in the bottom, which empties itself iiito a line cove or sandy bay, where tlie sea is generally very smooth, so that ships ride there with great safety. A small fort stands near the land- ing place from this bay, where a guard is constantly kept, and near it is a battery inoinited with a few small cannon. The town of St. John contains about tliree hundred houses, all built of rough ^tone, and it has one small church and a convent. The inhabitants of the town are in general very poor, havini;*' but little trade. Their chief manu^.^cture is striped cotton eloth, wjiich the Portuguese ships purchase '•f ti)eni, in their way to Brazil, and supply 4 them with several Euro|)ean coinn)odities in return. A tolerable large town is on the east side of the Island called Praya, where there i« a good port, which is seldom without ships, especially in peaceable times. Most of the European ships bound to the East Indies touch at this port to take in water aiul pru- vi.^ions, but they seldom stop here on their return to Europe. The town of Praya does not contain any remarkable building, e\. ce|)t a fort, situated on the top of a hill, which commands the harbour. When the European ships are here, the country peo- ple bringdown their commodities to sell to the seamen and passengers ; these articles generally consist of bullocks, hogs, goats, fowls, eggs, p\antains, and cocoa-nuts, which they exchange for shirts, drawers, handkerchiefs, hats, waistcoats, breeches, and linen of any kind. The port of Praya, a small bay, is situated about ttie middle of the .south side of tlic Island of St. Jago, in the latitude of 14 desr. 53 min. 30 sec. N. and 23 dtg. 30 min. VV. longitude. It is discovered, especially in coming in from the e.ist, by the souther- most hill on the Island, and which lies west from the port. The entrance of the bay is formed by two points, rather low, being W. S. W. and E. N. E. half a league from each other. Near the west point are sunken rocks, whereon the sea continually breaks. The bay lies in N. W. about half a league. We watered at a well, behind the beach, at the head of the bay. The water is scarce, but it is dilHcult to get it aboard, on account of a great surf on the beach. The refresh- ments to be procured here will^ be found in the course of our account of the Islands, Other articles may be purchased of the nsw tives in exchange for old cloths, &c. Bui- locks can only be bought with money ; the price twelve Spanish dollars per head, weighing between 250 fvnd 3 ter in the holes of the rocks, is tltereby turned, and sometimes lies two feet thick. The natives usually go and get a quantity AXD ROUND THE WORLD. 2i)7 ofsaltearly in the mornins^, fish the great- est part of the dtty ; ilrv, split, and salt their fisii in the evening, and having heaj>ed them up let them lie in the salt all night. On the ensuin{^ morning they spread them out to iry in the sun, and they are fit to use when wanted. The baleas, a sort of whale or grampus, is very ooinmon near this Island ; and some aHinn, that ambergris is the sperm of this creature. A great quantity of ambergris was formerly found about this Island, but it is less plentiful at present. Some years befure Capt. Koberts was here, Juan Car- neira, a Portuguese, who was banished from Lisbon for some crime, having procured a little shi|r or shallop, traded aniouGf^ the.se Islands : meeting at length with a piece of ambergris of an uneommon bigness, he not only procured his liberty, and leave to return before the term of his exile was ex- pired, but had sutticient letl, after defrayingr all cljurgcs, to put himself into a comforta- ble way of living ; and a rock near to which he found the ambergris, is called by his name to this day. The natives of this Island do not am lint to above two hundred souls, and are quite black. They are the most ignorant anci su- perstitious of any of the inhabitants of these Isfands. But in their disposition they are simple and harmless, humble, charita- ble, humane, and friendly; pay a particular respect to their equals, reverence their el- ders, are submissive to their superiors, and dutitnl to their parents. People wear in common only a slip of cotton fastened to a $tn\ys before, which passing between the thighs, is lied to the same string behind ; but when full dressed they also wear a piece of cotton cloth, (spun and wove by them- selves) which the men hang over their shoul- ders, and wrap round their waists, while the women put it over their heads, and then wrap it about their bodies ; and wi both of them it extends to the calf of the leg, or lower. They use in fishing, long- canes for rods, cotton liniesj and bent nails for hooks. As to their hunting, the governor having thtsole privilege of killing the wild goats, Done dare hunt without his consent. This 7 was a law made by the Portuguese when thev peopled these Islands from the coast of Africa, in order to prevent the entire loss of the breed. When a general hunt is appointed by tha governor, all the inhabitants are assembled, and the dogs, which are between a beagle and a greyhound, are called. At night, or when the governor thinks proper to put ai> end to the sport, they all meet together, and he parts the f oats flesh between tbeni as he pleases, sending what he thinks proper to his own house, with all the skins; and after he comes home, he sends pieces to tho.sa who are old, or were not out a hunting ; and. the skins he distributes amongst them as he thinks their necessities require, reserving the remainder of them for the lord of the- soil. This is one of the principal privileges enjoyed by the governor ; who is also the only magistrate, and decides the little dif- ferences that sometimes happen among the people. Upon their not submi*^.ing to thii decision, he confines them till they do, in an open place walled round like a pound : but, instead of a gate, they generally lay only a stick across the entrance, and those inno** eent people will stay there without attempt- ing to escape, except when overcome by passion, and then they rush out in a rage ; out these are soon caught again, tied hand and foot, and n eentinel set to watch them, till they agree with their antagonist, ask the governor's pardon for^ breaking out of his prison, and have remained there as long as ne thinks they have deserved. Nay, if one kills another, which hardly happens in an age, the governor can only confine him till he has pacified the relations of the deceased, by the mediation of his friends, who are bound for the criminal's appearance, in case a judge should be ever sent from Portugal< to execute justice ; but imprisonment is hera reckoned such a scandal, that it is as muchi dreaded as Tyburn was by criminals here. About forty-five miles from the Island of Salt is St. Nicholas Island, the N. W. point of which is in 17 deg. 10 min. N. latitude,, and 6 deg. 52 min. W. longitude from Cape de Verd. It is the largest of all the Caj^e de V«Ed. Is]aiuls,.exoept St Jago.. Tbe land ^ 208 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE. i!loy them- selves in sn|i|)lyin!; different parts with that usefnl article with wlii(;h they load asses, and carry it a considerable way at a cheap rate. Water may likewise be obtained in almost any part of the Island, by diu;j;ring a veil. The town of St. place in the Island ; populous, but all the church, are covered Avery, the clebrated pirate, received some offence from the Nicholas is the chief it is close built and houses, and even the with thatch. Capt. once inhabitants. burnt this town ; but it was afterwards re- built, much in the same manner, and to the •ame extent as before. The people are nearly black, with frizzled hair. They s|Mak the Portuguese lan- guage tolerably well, but are thievish and blood thirsty. The women here are more ingenious, and better housewives than in any other of the Cape de Verd Islands. Most families have horses, hogs, and poul- try ; and many of the people of St. Nicnolas understand the art of boat-building, in which the inhabitants of the other Islands are defioient. They likewise make good cloths, and even clothes being tolerable (aylors, manufacture cotton quilts, knit cct- ton stockings, make good shoes, and tan lefither. They are strong Roman Catholics, but their dispositions are so obstinate, that their priests find it very difficult to rule them. I'his Island abounds in oranges, lemons, plantains, bananas, pompions, musk, water-melous, sugar-canes, vmes, gum-dra- gon, iest'oons, maize, &c. The Island of St. Vincent is under 18 (leg. of N. latitude, two leagues to the west of St. Lucia, and about forty-three leagues distant from the Isle of Salt, W. and by N. It is five leagues in length. On the N. W. of it there is a bay a leairne and a half broad At tlie entrance, s&rronnded with high monn- tains, and stretching to tCic middle of the Island. This bay is sheltered from the westerly and north-westerly winds, by the high mountains of the Isle of St. Vincent; so that this is the safest harbour of any in all these Islands ; and yet it is difficult of access, because of the furious winds that blow with the utmost impetuosity from the mountains along the coast. There are se- veral other small bays on the south-side of the Island, where ships may anchor, and thither the Portuguese generally go to load hides. The S. E side of this Island is q sandy shore, but there is not a drop of water on the hills, nor even in any of^ the deep ■valleys, except one, in which fresh water » seen to spout out of the ground on digging a little. St. Anthony is the nost northward of all the Cape de Verd Islands, and lies in 18 deg. N. latitude, seven miles from St. Vin- cent, with a channel between them, which runs from S. W. to N, E. Here are two high mountains on this Island, one of which is nearly as high as the peak of Teneriffe, and seenis always in veloped in clouds. The in- habitants are about five hundred in number, and on the N. W. side of the Island there is a little village, consisting of about twenty houses or cottages, and inhabited by Rear fifty families of negroes and white people, who are all wretchedly poor, and speak the Portuguese language. On the north-side of the Island there is a road for shipping, and a collection of water in a plain lyinn be- tiyeen high mountains, the water running frocn a!l sides in the rainy season ; but in the (h-y season the people are greatly distress- ed for water. The principal people here are a governor, a captain, a priest, and a schoolmaster, all of whom take much upon themselves, so that the people have some jingling verses concerning ^hem, which iin-* ply, that the governor's staff, the beads of the priest, the schoolmaster's rod, and the captain's sword, give them a licence to feasl on the natives who serve as slaves to suppoi' their luxury and grandeur. St Lucia lies in latitude 17 deg. 18 min N. It is high land, full of hills, and is nheui eight or nine leagues long. On the S. E rjul of it r olhcr, () U'liere the a small is good hotti in twenty JsliAKJ of I lirava, o js a 1)011 1 t'ii TItere are iioitl) of it. .S. E. side < niiclior no water. T» let just a I side of tin dioiis road wafer. On Frid.i having got ineiits and put to sea, i (.'upe of Go ill the eve made its a colour, an a descending duration, it its course w low followii herless circl( distance fro and sixty le? tinned to att two followi conitos in th great velocii single one, t them with h poons. We ma a shark, fish we dine rather difficu it was to I era I remarkable tlie Uesolutic of our carpen was drownec the scuttles, he fell. All U'ere in vain AND ROUND THE WORLD. 20f> rnil of it are two small Isles, very near e.ach otlipr. On tl»e E. S. E. oiiit it held for several days, at times blowing in squalls, attended with rain and hot sultry weather. On the 27tli- instant, one of captain Furi>eaux's petty ofHcers died on board the Adventure ; but on board the Resolution, we had not one man sick, although a deal of rain fell, which in such hot climates, is a great pro- moter of sickness. Capt. Cook took every necessary precaution for the preservation of our health, bv airing and dvying thj ship with tires made between decks, and by mak- ing the crew air their bedding, and wash their clothes, at every onportunity. Two men were jmnished on board the Adven- ture ; one a private marine for quarrelling with the quarter-master ; the other a com- mon sailor for theft. Each of them received one dozen. This we mention to shew wliat strict discipline it was necessary to preserve on board, in order to establish a regular and peaceable behaviour in such hazardous voy- ages, when men, unaccustomed to controu^l, are apt to prove mutinous. On Tuesday, September the 8th, we cross- ed the line in longitude 8 (\e^. W. Some of the crew, who had never passed the line before, were obliged to undergo the usnal ceremony of ducking, but some bought tliemselves off, by paying the required for- feit of brandy. Those who submitted to an emersion, found it very salutary, as it can- not well be done too often in warm weathftr^ rOYAGE TOWARDS TFIE SOUTH POLK, 210 nnd a frequent dinnjpe of linen and clotlies is exct't'diiiii- refresliiuff. On the I Jth, a fly- inu: lisli Tell on our deck; uecani^lit several doi|)l(ins; siiw some aquatic birds; and^ at various intervals, observed the sea covered Willi nujuberless animals. On Sunday the 27th. a sail was discovered to the W. stand- inar aflrr us ; she appeared to be a snow, and siietved either Portuyfue«ie colours, or St. fteortre's ensiirn. We ilid not chiise to wait till she approached nearer, or to speak to her. The winds besyan now to be variable, so that we made but little way, and not any thing' reuia-kable happened till October the ] Ith, when weobserved an eclipseofthe moon. jAt twenty-tour minutes, twelve seconds, after six o'clock, by Mr. Kendal's watch, the moon rose about four digits ecli(>sed. On Monday the I 'ith, the weather beinsr calm, we timused ourselves with shooting »ea fowl. VV^c were now accomfianied bv sheerwaters, pintadoes, &c. and by a small ?:rey peterel. This last is less than a pit^eon, las a grey back, whitish belly, and a black stroke across from the tip of one wing to that of the other. These are southern binis, and, we believe, never seen within the tro- llies, oi north of the line. They visited us in great flights ; and about the same time we saw several animals of the moluscakind, nithin our reads, together with a violet- roloured shell, of a remarkai'le thin texture, and thcryfoie seems cakMiIafed to keej) the open sea ; and not to come near rocky places, it being easily broken. Saturday the 17th, we discovere i\eg. "10 nsin. S. and our longi- tude H * pear in such numbers; nor did wescegnniiets, or the black bire. On Thnrsda.v, the 29th, at two o'clock 1*. M. we nnuie the land oftlieCsipc of Good Hope; lor a particular descriiitiun of wlii(*h. and of the adjacent country, see page 14«, &c. of this 'work. The Table Mountain, tiver the Cape Town, bore E. S. E. distant ttvelve or fourteen leagues : hud it not have been obscured by cIoikU, it might from its height, have been seen at a much greater distance. Friday the 3(Mli, we stood into Table B ly, with the Adveii. ture in company, and anchored in tive tii. thoms water. We were now visited by the master-attendant of the fort, some other otli- cers belonging to the company, and IVIr. Brandt. This last gentleman brought ot\ to us many articles that were very accepta- ble ; and the master-attendant, as is custo- mary, took an account of the two ships, in- quiring particularly, if the small-pox was on board, a disorder dreaded above all others by the inhabitants of the Cape ; tor whicii reason a surgeon always attends on these visits. This day Capt. Cook sent an olliter to wait npcn Itaron Flettenberg the govt-r- nor, to inform him of our arrival ; to which lie returned a polite answer ; and on the return of our officer, we saluted the fort witii eleven guns, which compliment wasacknow- ietlged by the sf^.me number. The governor, w'leu the ca|itain accompanied by some of o.M' gentlemen ^vaited ujhin him, told them, that two FreMch ships from the Mauriti.ut eight months uefjre, had discovered laiui, in 48 lies:. S. latitude and in tiic nieri- dian of that Island, along which they sailed lorty miles, till they came to a bay, into whicli when they were aboi^t to enter, tluy were driven oft' and sepanited in a hard gule after having lost some of their people and boat who had l.«en sent out to sound the bay ; but the La Fortune, one of Ihe ships, arrived soon after at Mauritius, t»\. captain of'vhicli WHS sent home to France vvjth an a«;couiit of the discovery. We also learned from the gove«nor, that two other FVench ships fnunM«»»ntius, in March last, touched at the Cajie in their passmge to the Pacific Ocean, tc coveries , Aotouroii ville bro been livii Marion. some of tl up our ah .sidence ot lisli ships, this genth tioiihle, i agreeable liiin with n^easures y with provi without ( were empi nnd the c sides, jcc. and Mr. ]j gnlating tl Tiie result watch had tions, by di place to wi it was obse aiid Dixon At this p after us, fro near five m lost by the i fevers, in al t(Miehed at month t'rnir yet we arriv iier. J)uri uho emploj «iwt of Na* with one A; man who h; Foster imp take him nb willing to eii «nil he wa: who bore I lowed him IIo ^^'-.^'^ which he procured witlu)ut delay, while our men on board were employed in overhauling the rigging, nnrtuned strongly Capt. Cook to take him aboard ; and Mr. Sparman being willing to embark, the Captam consented ; and he was engaged under Mr. Forster, who bore his ex|)ences on board, and al- lowed liiiu a yearly stipend besides. Mr. Ilmlgev also employed himself in taking views of the Cafte, town, and parts adjacent, in oil colours ; all which were letl with Mr. Hrardt» to be forwarded by him to the ad- 3 mirnlty, by the first ship bound for Eng* land. On the 18th of November we ha» poinletl tirst lieutenant, and Mr. Jiuriiey, one of our midshipmen, was made second lieutenant, in the room uf Mr. Kemp. On the 22nd we repaired on board, hav- ing tirst taken leave of the governor, and <>ther otlicers, who in a most ubiiging inan> nci- had atforded us all the necessary assist- ance we required. At thre< o'clock, P. IvI. we weigheit, and saluted the fort with fifteen guns, which compliment was instiMitiy re- turned. >Ve now stood all nigl>t tu the westward, to get clear of the land, during* which time the sea made the .same lumi- nous appearance, whi<'h has been already, in the course of our history, jioticed and de- scribed. As soon as we had cleared the land, we directed our course, as ordered, to Cape Circumcision. We had a nio«leratc gale from tht, N. W. point ■ ntil the 24th, when the wind shifteii io the eastward. This day by observations, at nooij, we found ourselves to be in «*}'> i\e«::. 20 in in. S. lut. and 29 min. W. of the Cape of (wood IIo|»e. As we were now directing our cour<;e towaitl the antarctic circle, and ex|>ected toeiMvuin- ter soon with cold weather, the Captain or- dered a waste of I'resh water to be as luin h as possible prevented ; at the same time h« supplied each man with a fenrnought, jacket, and trow.sers, allowed by tSio 4dn>i- ralty, and also slops to .«.ich who wanted them. Observing a great number of alba- trosses about us, we put out hooks and lines with which we caught several, and the ship's companyi though served with muttoa il fJid 212 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, relished them very much. On the 29th, a heavy storm came from the W. N. W. with few intervals of moderate weather, for nearly a week : the sea ran very high, and fre- quently broke over the ships. On Sunday, December the 6th, we were in latitude. 4Hdeg. 41 min. 8. and in 18 deg. 24 min. E. longitude. The storm continued and the roaring of the waves, together with haii, rain, and a srreat agitation of the ves- sel, were circumstances that rendered our situation extremely disagreeable. A boy in the fore part of our ship hearing a noise of water running among the chests, turned out, and found himself halfway up the leg in water ; upon which all hands worked at the pnmps, but the water increased upon us. This was ai last discovered to come in through a scuttle in the boatswain's store- room. This gale, attended with hail and fain, continued till the 8th, with such fury, that we could carry no sails; and being driven by this means far to the eastward of our intended course, not the least hope re- mained of oc .caching Cape Circumcision. Our distress was augmented by the loss of a great part of our live stock we had brought from the Cape. Every man felt the effects of the sudden transition from warm to ex- treme cold weather; for which reason an addition was made to the men's allowance of brandy in both ships. On the morning of the 7tli, the rising sun gave us a flattering prospect of serene weather ; but our expec- tations soon vanished ; the barometer was unusr 'Jy low; and by one o'clock P. M. the wind, which was at N. W. blew with such violence as obliged us to strike our top- gallant-masts. On the 8th, the gale was somewhat abated ; but the sea ran too high for us to c.trry more than the fore-top-mast stay-sail. . On Wednesday, the 9th, at three A. M. we wore the ship to the southward, showers of snow fell, with squally weather. At eight madc' signal for the Adventure to make sail. On !lie IQth, made another signal for her to lead, and saw an ice-Island to the westward of us, in 50 des, 40 min. 1^' latitude, and 2 deg. E. longitude of the Cape of Good Hope. Tfaie weather being hazy, Capt. Cook by i signal called the Adventure under our sitm\ a fortunate circumstance this; for the fo^ increased so much, that we could not discern an Island of ice, for which VJe were steering, till we were less than a mile from it. The sea broke very high against this Island of ice, which Cantain Furneaux took for land, and therefore liauled off from it, till he was called back by signal. We cannot deter- mine with precision on the heightor circum- ference of this ice-Island; but. in our opi- nion such large bodies must drift ^ery slowly, for, as the greatest nart of them are under water, they can be little affected by either the winds or waves. It being necessary to proceed with great circumspection, we reef- ed our to|)-sails, and upon sounding found no ground with one hundred and fifty tV thoms. Friday, the 11th, in 51 deor. 50 ; latitude, and 21 deg. ti min. E. longitude. saw some white birds, and passed another large Island of ice. The birds were about the size of pigeons, with blackish bills and feet, Capt Cook thought them of the pe- trel kind, and natives of these frozen seas. The '^isnial scene in view, to which we were unaccustomed, was varied as well by these birds, as several whales, which made their appearance among the ice, and afforded us some idea of a southern Greenland. But though the appearance of the ice, with the waves breaking over it, might afford a few moments pleasure to the eye, yet it could not fail filling us with horror, when we re- flected on our danger; for the ship would be dashed to pieces in a moment, were she to get against the weather side of one ot these Islands, when the sea runs hierh. On the 13th, a great variety of ice Is- lands presented themselves to our view, and the number of our attendant birds de- creased. As we were now in tlH; latitude of Cape Circumcision, according to Mr. Bon- vet's discoveries, in the year 1739, yet we were 10 deg^. to the longitude of it; but some people on board were very eager to he first in spying land. In this field of low ice were several Islands, or hills, and some on board thought they saw Jand over the ice ; but this was only owing to the various AND ROUND THE WORLD. 2ia Rppearanees which the ice hills make, when seen in hazy weather. We had smooth wa- ter, and brought to under a ^)oint of ice : here we consulted on places ot retidezvous, m case of separation, and made several re- gidatioiis for the better keeping company. We then made sail al(»ng the ice. On Monday the fourteenth it boat was liuisted out for two prentlemen to make some observations and experiments. While they were thus engaged, the fog- increased so much, that they entirely lost sight of both of the ships. Their situation was truly terrific and alarming", as they were only in a small four oareut wait' forced finally to kill it with a ball ; its hard glossy plumage having constantly turned the snot aside. The plumage of thi.liition, provided they met with no im- pediment, to run as far west as Cape Cir- cumcision, since the sea seemed to be pretty clear of ice, and the distance not more titan eighty leagues. We steered for an Island of ice this day, intending to take some on board, and convert it into fresh water. On this Island we saw a great number of pen- guins. The sight of these birds is said to be a sure indication of the vicinity of land. This may hold good where there are no ice Island, but not so when there are any, for there they find a resting place. We will not determine whether there are any fe. males among them at so great a distance from land, or whether they go on shore to breed. On the 31st, we stood for this Island again, but could not take up any of the loose i«e, for the wind increased so considerably, as to make it dangerous for the ships to re- main among the ice; besides wliich, we discovered an immenj;e field of ice to the north, extending further than the eye could reach. We had no time to deliberate, a» we Were not above two or three miles from it. On the 1st of Jaruary, the gale abated but there fell a good deal of snow and sleet, which froze on the rigging of the ships. The wind continued moderate the next day, and we were favoured with a .sight of the moon, whose face we had not seen since we left the Cape of Good Hope. We were now in 59deg. 12 min. 8 latitude, and in 9 deg, 45 min. E longitude. Several observationi were made of the sun and moon. We were nearly in the longitude assigned by M. Bou. vet to Cape Circumcision : but as the wea- ther was very clear at this time, insomuch that we coivid see at least fifteen leaorues distance from us, it is most probable tliat what he took for laud was no more than mountains of ice, surrounded by loose or packed ice, the appearances of which are so deceptions. From all the observations we could make, we think it highly proba- ble that there is no land under the meridian between the latitude of 55 and 59 deg. We directed our course to the E. S. E. that we might get more to the S. We had a fresh gale and a thick fog, a good deal of snow and sleet, which iroze on the rigging, and evnry rr rent ice. at, but I it really milder f and fhcr One inct that the die the r On Fi fslands, III the e\ « vast qu the TveatI and sent i as they a ed upon casks, fro got watei little salt water whi and gooii taking aw tious meth We observ an immen we took in Some pers« ofnatnral that the ni casks, whei Solve and h packed, thi would take one. In o Cook places temperate i solved, took J his was a ^earsofthis several fine nitiefi of m experiments Us on many took theopp in fresh wa long voyas-es On the I7t antarctic oir sontlierri friQi ''•lators had AND ROUND THE WORLD. 21* every rope was covered witli fine transpa- rent ice. This waft pleasing enough to look at, but made us imagine it was colder than jt really was; for the weather was ranch milder Oiat it had been for many days past, and th<.re was not so much ice in the sea. One inconvenience attended us, which was that tiie men found it very difficult to han- dle the ringing. On Friday the 8th, we passed more ice [slands, which became very familiar to us. [ii the evening we came to one which had s vast quantity of loose i(;e about it, and, as the weather was moderate, we brought to, and sent the boats out to take up an much as they could. Large piles of it were pack- ed upon the quarter-deck, and put into casks, from which, after it was melted, we f[ot water enough for thirty days. A very ittle salt water adhered to the ice, and the water which this produced was very fresh and good. Excepting the melting and taking away the ice, this is a most expedi- tious method of supplying ships with water. We observed here several white whales, of an immense size. In two days afterwards we took in more ice, as did the Adventure. Some persons on board, who were ignorant of natural philosophy, were very much afraid that the unmelted ice, which was kept in casks, when the weather altered, ivould dis- fiolve and burst the casks in which it was packed, thinking that, in its malted state it would take up more room than in its frozen one. In oroci to undeceive them, Capt. Cook placed a little pot of stamped ice in a temperate cabin, which as it gradually dis- solved, took up much less space than before. This was a convincing argument, and their fearsof this sort subsided. As we had now several tine days, we had frequent opportu- nities of making observations, and trying experiments, which were very serviceable to us on many accounts. The people likewise took the opportunity of washing their ch)tlies in lre«h water, which is very necessary in long voyages. On the 17th, before noon, we crossed tl>e antarctic circle ; and a«lvanced into the sontheni frigid zone, which to all tVmuer na- vi!,ators liad remained impenetrable. \Te 7 could see several leagues around ns, as thts weather was tolerably clear. In the after- noon we saw the whole sea covered with ice, from S. E. to S. W. We saw a new species of the petrel, of a brown colour, with a white belly and rump, and a large white spot on the wings ; we saw great flif;hts of them, but never any of them fell into the ships. \Ve called it the Antarctic petrel, as such numbers of them were seen hereabouts. [n the afternoon we saw thirty-eight ice Islands, large and small. This immense tield was composed of different kinds of ice ; such as field-ice, as so called by the Green- landmen, and packed ice. Here we saw several whales playing about the ice, and still large flocks of petrels. Our latitude was now 67 de^^. 15 min. S. We did not think it prudent to persevere in a southern direction, as that kind of sum* mer which this part of the world produces was now half spent ; and it wculd have taken up niuch time to have gone round the ice, supposing it practicable ; we therefore resolved to go directly in search of the land lately discovered by the French. On the 19th, in the evening, we saw a bird, which in Capt. Cook's former voyage was called the Port Egmont hen ; so called, because there are great numbers of them to be seen at Port Egmont in Faulkland Is- lands. They are about the size of a large crow, short and thick, of a chocolate oolour, with a white speck under each wing. Those birds are said never to go far from land ; and we were induced from this circumstance to hope that land was near, but we were disappointed ; the ice Islands had probably brought this bird hither. On the 21st, we saw white albatrosses with black tipped wings. On the 29th, se- veral porpoises passed us with amazing swiftness ; thej^ had a large white spot on their sides, which came almost up to their backs. They went at least three times as fast as our vessels, an<' ve went at the rat^ of sevenlinots and a I alf an hour. On the 31st, we passed a large ice Island, which at the time of our sailing by was tumbling- to pieces. The explosion equalled that of a cannon. 216 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, On the 1st of February, we saw lai^e tjiiantities of sea weed floating by the ships. Ciipt. Furneaux acquainted Capt, Cook, that he had seen a number of divers, which very mucii resembled those in the English sens, and Ukewise a large bed of floating rock-weed. These were certain signs of the vicinity of land ; bui we could not tell %vhether it was to the E. or W. We ima- gined that no land of any extent lay to the W. because the sea ran so hij;h from the N. E. N. N. W. and W. we therefore steered to the E. lay to in the night, and resumed our course in the morning. We saw two or three egg birds, and passed several pieces of rock-weed, but no other signs of land. We steered northward, and made signal for the Adventure to follow, as she was rather thrown astern by her movement to the east- ward. We could not find land in that direc- tion, and we again steered southward. There was an exceeding thick fog on the 4th, on which we lost sight of the Adven- ture. We fired several signals, but were not answered ; on which account we had too much reason to think that a separation had taken place, though we could not well tell what had been the cause of it. Capt. Cook had directed Capt. Furneaux, in case of a separation, to cruize tliree days in tiiat .lUi-ze he last saw the Resolution. Capt. er, which was but a dismal pros- pect, for we were now exposed to the dan- ger of the frozen climate without the com, tiany of our tellow-voyagers, which before lad relieved our .spirits when we considered that we were not entirely alone in case we lost our own vessel. The crew universally regretted the loss of the Adventure; and they seldom looked around the ocean with> out expressing some concern that we were alone on this unexplored expanse. At this time we had an opportunity of seeing what we had never observed before, thee aurora australir, which made a very grand and luminous appearance. Nothing material happened to us, but various changes of the weather and climate, till the 25th of March, when land was seen from the mast-head, which greatly exhilarated the spirits of onr sailors. We steered in for the land with all the sail we could carry, and had the advan. tage of good weather and a fresh gale. The captain mistook the bay before us for Dusky Bay, the Islands that lay at the mouth of it having deceived him. We proceeded for Dusky Bay, in New Zealand, but with much caution as we advanced nearer the lanil. We ))assed several Islands, &c. and two leagues up the bay an ofticer was sent outfo look for anchorage, which he found, and si;>. nified it by signal. Here we anchored in fifty fathoms water, and very ne?T the shore. This joyful circumstance happened on llie 26th of March, after we had been 117 days at sea, and sailed 3660 leagues, witJiout so much as once seeing land. It might be supposed, from the length of time we had been at sea, that the people would have been generally affected by the scurvy ; but the contrary happened, owing to the precautions we used. We had much reason to be thank- ful to divine Providence, that no untoward accident had befallen us, and thai our crew were in good health. CHAP. 11. ■K. ji narrative of what happened in Dusky Bay^ in New Zealand; Interviews with the natives. Tif^^" Resolution sails to Charlotte's Sound; Is there joined by the Adventure ; Transactions in this place, with observations on the inhabitants ; Capt, Fumeaux's narrative ; The two ships proceed in company from New Zealand to the Island of Otaheite; Remarks on some low Islands, supposed to be the same that were discovered by M. de Bougainville ; The Resolution and Adventure arrive at Otaheite ; Are in a critical situation ; An account of several incidents while they lay in Oaiti-piha Bay. THE country appeared beautiful and pleasing. The Islands wepassed, be- fore our entrance into Dusky Bay, were shaded with evergreen, and covered with woods; the various shades of autumnal yel- low, intermixed with the evergreens, exhi- bited a delightful contrast. The rocky shores were enlivened with flocks of aquatic birds, and the whole country resounded witli the wild notes of the feathered song- sters. As soon as we anchored we caught great numbers of fish, which eagerly took the bait laid for them. Our first meal upon iish here was looked upon as the most de- lightful we had ever made. Capt. Cook did not hke the place in which we anchored, and sent lieutenant Pickersgill in search of n better, which he soon found. The cap- tain liked it, and called it Picken^fill har- bour. This we entered on the twenty- seventh of March, b^f a channel which was scarcely twice the width of the ship. Here we determined to stay some time, and exa- mine it thoroughly, as no one had ever en- tered it before, or landed on any of the southern parts of this country. Our situa<* tion was admirable for wood and water. Our yards were locked in the branches of trees, and n(*ar our 9tern ran a delightful stream of fresh water. We made prepara- tions on shore for making all necessary ob- servations, and perform necessary repairs, &c. &c. The live cattle we had left which consisted of a few sheep and goats, would not taste the grass which grew on the shore ; nor were they very fond of the leaves of tender plants which grew here. When we examined these poor creatures, we found their teeth loose, and they had other symp- Ff toms of an inveterate scurvy. We had not hitherto seen any appearance of inhabitants ; but on the twenty-eight some of the othcers went on a shooting party in a small boat, and discovering them, returned to aquaint Capt. Cook therewith. Very shortly a canoe came filled with them, within musket shot of the ship. They stood looking at us for some time, and then returned : we c aid not prevail upon them to come any he&itrr, notwithstanding we shewed them every token of peace and friendship. Capt, Cook, with several officers and gentlemen, went in search of them the same day. We found the canoe hauled upon the shore, where were several huts, with fire-places and fish* ing-nets, but the people had probably retired into the woods. We made but a short stay, and left in the canoe some medals, looking glasses, &c. not chosing to search any fur- ther, or enforce an interview which they wished to avoid ; we returned accordingly to the ship. Two parties went out the next . day, but returned without finding any thing worth noticing. On the 1st, of April we sent to see if any thing we had left in the canoe remained there. It did not appear that any body had been there, and none of the things meddled with. On the 2nd, we again went on shore to Mearch for natural productions. We kill- ed three seals, and found many ducks, wood hens, and wild fowl, several of which we killed. Another party went ashore the same day, and took with them a black dog we had brought from the Cape, who ran into the woods at the first mnsket they fired, and would nOt return. Both particc came back to the ship in the fveDipg. §i '^H^hkI 1 us VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, Oil the sixth, we made a shooting party, fles and a piece of cloth of their own mann> and found a capacious cove, where we nhut facture ; and pointed to a boat clonk, which several dncks ; on which account we called he wished to have. The hint was taken, it Duck Cove. We had an interview ivilh and one was ordered to be made for him of one man and two women, as we returned in red baize. On the^th we paid the native.t t|»e evening, who were natives, and the first another visit, and signified our approach by ttiat discovered themselves ; arid had not hallooiqg to them ; hut they neither met us the man hallooed to us, we sl^ould have on shore, nor answered ns as usual ; the passed without seeing- them. The m|an stood reason of which was. that their time was npon the point of a rock, with a club in hi* fujly occiipied in dressing themselves to re- hand, and the women were behind him with (ieive us. They had their hair combed and spears. As we approached, the man disco- oiled, stuck with white feathers, and tied vered great signs of fear, but stood firm ; upon the crowns of their heads, and had nor would he move to take up some things bunches of feathers stuck in their ears. We that were thrown to him. His fears were were received by them with great courtesy all dissipated by Capt. Cook's going up to in their dr^ss. The man was so well pleased embrace him ; the captain gave him such with t^ie present of the cloak, that he took things as lie had about him. The officers his patta-patoe from his side, and gave it to and seamen followed the Captain, and talk- Capt. Cook. We continued here a little ed some time with them ; though we could time, and took leave, spending the rest of not understand them. In this conversation, the day in surveying the bay. the youngest of the women bore the greatest On ^onday the 12th, this family paid us sliare. A droll fellow of a sailor remarked, a visit iq their canoe, but proceeded with ^hat the women jid not want tongue in aiiy fmrt of the world. We were obliged to eave them on the approach of night ; but before we parted Mrs, Talkative gave us a dance. caution as they approached the ship. We could not by any means persuade them to come on board, but put ashore in a little creek near us, and sat themselves down near ^noM^h to speak to us. Capt. Cook On the 7th, we made them another visit, ordered the bagpipes to play, and tne drum and presented them with several thinjfs ; but they beheld every thing with inditit r- ence, except hatchets and spike nails. We now sawall the man's family, as we supposejd, which consisted of two wives, the young wo- man we mentioned before* a boy about four- siipposed ithat they took such teen years old, and three small children. Excepting one woman (who had a large wen upon her upper lip,) they were well fa- voured ; on account of her disagreeable ap- pearance^ she seemed to be neglected by the man tion. to beat; the latter only they regarded. They conversed very familiarly (though not well understood) with such officers and sea- men as went to them, and paid a much greater regard to some than to others ; we for women. One of the females shewed a remarkable fondness for one man in particular, until she found out his sex ; after which she would not let him approach her. We can- not tell whether she had before taken him We were conducted to their habita- *'/br a female, or whether, in discovering hi m- which consisted of two mean huts, self, he had taken some liberties with^he^. situated near the skirts of a wood. Their Ih the evening the natives of Dusky Bay canoe la^ in a small creek near the huts, took up tlieir quarters very n^r our water- and wa? just large enough to transport th^ ing- place, which was a clear proof that they placed a great defil of coniidenqe in qs. We passed two or hree days in examining the bay an^ making necessary experiments and observjatiQus.' We likewise shot great quan- tities of wild fowl. ^ Oil Momday the 19thj the man «nd bis whole family from place to place. A gen- tleman of our party made sketches of th,ei^, which occasioned their calling hi^n ,Toe-l oe, wTiich, it seems, is a word which signifies marking or pain ti^. On taking leav*?, tljye man preseiited Capt. Cool^ with sotiie trjk- i> ' b e ib: IK '-( t iV m si;,, ,S-' '• ' it 5f' . lH)ar(l oi were fisf u'oiild c side of it some wo a/ter vvlii raine on ruiiM no us. The U'itli app roiild iiul filing for seemed b works of The stren other pan witii sill* pleased \\ Any thing once got I quit then gentlemen tould dise tvhoni the out in two bay; at \ night's lod ed their ducks. V tives, who before, set rent place their turn, i natives did could they, separated tl As they o their obser the natives man appeal river, wavin a token of fr not get neai Mito the wot IS the genti likewise, an cover. The the next nig breakfast ei but saw tw( ANn nolTND TIIK WnHlLD. 219 l.lttghter before mentioned Yentnred on t>oaril our ship, while the reit of the family (vere Hsiiing in the canoe. Ilefore the man wouUi come into the sliip, he strnck the side of it with a green brunch, and mnltered some words, wliich we took for a prayer ; atier which he threw away the branch HUA rame on board. We were at breakfsist, but roiiid not prevail on them to part<(ke with us. They viewed every part of t|le cabrj) u'ith apparent cnriosity and snrprl^e; but v^e rotdu not fix the man s attention to any one tiling for a moment. All we shewed him seemed beyond his comprehension, and the works of nature anro(>m, and went out in two boats to examine the head of th^ bay; at which place they took up fhei,r night's lodging ; the next clay fhev continu'r ed their observations, and fired at some ducks. Upon the report of the gun, the na- tives, who had not discovered themselves before, .set up a most hideous rpar in di/fe- reiU places. The gentlemen hallooed jn their turn, and retreated to their boats. Th^ natives did not follow them, neither indeed ooiild they, because a branch of the river separated tjiem, but still made a great noise. As they continued slM>oting and making; their observations^, they frequently |i'eara the natives in the woods. A man japd wo- man appeared at Ibst on tlie banks of tni^| river, waving something in, their hands as, a token of friendship. The gentlemen could not get near them» and the natives retreated, nito the woods. T\yo qtliers ap|)eared ; but ts the gentlepneii advanceji they retreated likewise, and the Woods aftorded theni thick cover. The capt(>lh aiid hjs party ^ass^d, the next night in the same mace, ana aAi^ breakfast embarked to return.. ^^v board; but saw two men on thie opposite shdre, iiiis uosiuon iney siooq ^ maa^.V^pe^^lb Hlifch t;|ie ntid^rsWtid, bu| returned who lisiliooed to them, and they were in- diioetl to row over to them. C'apt. Cook with two other ffentlemen lamled unarmed, and advanced all together, but the natives retreatftl, nor would they stand still till Capt. Cook went up alone. It was with some dirticulty that he prevailed on one of them to fay down his spear ; at last he did It, aiid ir^ki the captain with a grass plant in his hand, givin'^y CVpt.. Cook one end to hold whilst he himself held the other. In this ppsjtion. they fiiood wliile the natives e captain did r)ot sw^r^ they tl^en saluted each other, and the native took n^s coat from his back, and put it op the captain. The Captain presented each of them with a hatchet and a knife, having nothing else with him. They invit- ed the gentlemen to their habitation, and VKanted them to eat, but the tuh prevented their Accepting .of this invitation. More Pf^o'ple apiVeared in the skirts of the woods, l^iit did not approach any nearer. The twfl* liAtives accompanied the gentlemen to their boats, but seemed very much agitated at the a|)pearances of the muskets, which they lopked upon as instruments of death, on Account of the slaug;hter they had observed among the fowls. It was necessary to >Vatch them, for thev laid their hands on ey^ry thing ej^cept the muskets. They as.. .sLsted the seamen in launching the boat. It did not apnear that they had any boats 01^ canoes wil'ii them, but used two or three togrsofwood tied together, which answered the ^a me purposes; for the navigation of the river, oii the banks of which they Jived, vvas not very difficult, and swarmed with fislV and fowl. We apprehend that all the natives of this bay aid no^ exceed more than, three tamilies. This party took leave of the man about noon ; and ip the evening returned to the ship, when they found that the visitors had .staid on board till nouu ; tjiaf he and his family remained near them tijj^that.day, and went intp the woods, after ^hti^h they were neyer seen : this appears rathelf extraordinary, as they never went ^sf^f^y ^w^hout^so^e present. Several par- ucs wefB msuie iii oirder to catch seali* 220 VOYAGE TOTTARDS THE SOUTH POLE, which were very useful for food, for oil, and their skins were cured for riming. The flesh of them is nearly as good asoeef-steaks, and thfir entrails are eaual to those of a ho^. We likewise took the summit of the uioiiutuins in this bay, and made other re^ On Saturday the 24th, Capt. Cook took five ^eese and a gander, which were all that remained of those brought from the Cape of Good Hope, and carried them to a cove, which on this account he culled gooseK^ove ; this wafl a convenient place, for thev were not likely to be disturbed by the inhabitaats, there was plenty of food for then, and they were likely here to breed and spread the countrv with their species. We had now several days fair weather, which gave us a fine opportunity of making necess&ry pre- parations for departure. On Tuesday the 27th, we found an arm of the sea more convenient than that by which we entered the bay ; we shot several ducks, and were much pleased with the day's expedition. All we now waited for was wind to carry us out of harbour by the new passage we had discovered. The tents iiiui all other articles were got on board. The robbi.sh we had made on shore, which consisted chiefly of pieces of wood, &e. we set on iire, in order to dry the ground, which being done, Capt. Cook sowed the spot with various sorts of garden seeds. Tnis was the best place we con Id find to place them in. We made several efibrts to isail, hut the wind proving contrary we made but little way, ana were obliged to anchor on (he first of May on the north side of Long fsland. Here we found two hnts with fire place.5, which appeared to be lately inhabit- ed. Capt. Cook was detained on board by a cold, and sent a party to explore an arm of the sea, which turns in to the east. This party found a good anchoring place, with plenty of wild fowl, fish and fresh wa- ter. We made several shooting parties jyhen the wind would not permit us to sail. Before we leave Dusky Bay, we think it ne- cessary to give our readers some description of it. There are two entnivces to this Bay, which are by no means dangerous ; and there tr« numerous anchoring places, which are at once safe and commodious ; at Cascade Cave, so called on account of the magnifi. cent cascade near it, ia room for a fleet of ships, and a very good passage in and out. The country is very niountainon.% and the prospect is rude and craggy. The land bor. dering on the sea-coast, and all its lands, arecovered with wood. There are trees of various kinds which are coniniun in otiier countries, the timber of which i* remarka- bly fine. Here are likewise a great number of aromatic plants, and the woods are so over-run with sunle jacks, that it is diflicult to make way tnrough them. The soil it undoubtedly composed of decayed vegeta- bles, which make a deep black mould ; it is very loose, and sinks at every step. This may be the reason why there are so many large trees blown down as we meet with In the woods. Except flax and hemp, there is very little herbage. The bay abounds witB fish, which we caught in great r hers. Seals are the only amphibious anin t be found here, but there are great numiL^crs of them. Various kinds of ducks are to Le found, as well as all other wild fowl. H«re is likewise a bird which we called the wat- tle bird, because it has two wattles under its beak like those of a dunghill cock. Its bill is short and thick, its feathers are dark,, and is abou^ the sixe of an Engiiish black- bird. This we called the poy-bird. on ac count of two little tufts of curled hair whicii hang under its throat, called its poies, whicli is the Otaheitan word foe ear-rings. I'hn feathers of this bird are of a fine mazarine blue, except those of his neck, which are of a silver grey. Thej^eetness of its note is equal to the beant^ 6f its plUmage r its fltsh is likewise luxiinotii food, though it is i great pity to kill thedi. The small black sand flics are here verv numerous and troublesome ; they cause t swelling and intolerable iteming wherever thev bite. Another evil attending this bay is the almost continual rains that fall, but happily our people felt no ill eflects from them. The place must certainly be health- ful, as those of our crew, who were in any rtegffle i (erfed si) The II same wi( land; tl adopt thi divine wl to .separa the rest o probable 0ver this with inha to lead a be in perf On Tne made sail, We ohsi'n the sea, on looked lik another of the clond<< coalition a s|)ont; aevi sanie mam: rery well j causes of tli in examipii spot, whic when the si when the vapours ros were like a the surface ed crossing;- one after n, clouds not f flity. The covered vvi clouds came ahout, and ^^ithin 200 the sea, in ascended in a the clouds ._ some hail' sti gradually taj directly over descending i won united hroke like ot but a flash c ^1- --? AND ROUND THE WORLD. U2l »legree inc1it«P0sed when we came in reco- (erwi speedily. The nihaliitants of Dusky Bav are the game with those in other parts of New Zea- land ; tliey speak the same langnitge and adopt the same customs. It is not easy to divine what could induce these few families to separate themselves fr«m the the rest of their fellow-creatures junction. The oldest mariners on board hnd never been so near water-spouts before, they were therefore very much sdurnied. Had we been drawn into the vortex, it wns generally believed that our masts and yards must have prone to wreck. From the* first appearanc^e, to the last dissolution was three society of quarters of an hour It seems On May the 18th, at five o'clock in the probuble that there are people scatteret in the first appointed place of rendezvous, in tlie sea, in violent agitation ; the water ' * " ' • • • • case such a misfortune should happen. Soon after their separation, the people of' the Adventure heard a gun, the re|)ort'of ' which they judged to be on the larboard ' beam ; upon which they hauled up S. E." directly over the agitated sftot, and seemed and fired a fi^nr pounder every half hour; descending to meet the rising, spiral, and. but receiving no return, nor sight of their companion, they- kept the course tl^y hkd steered before the fog. came on. Itt the evening k began to blow hard. Tbie starm sea, ni (iscended in a spiral form towards the clouds ; the clouds looked black and louring, and some hair stones fell on board. A cloud gradually tapered into a long slender tube 5oon united with it. The last water-spout broke like others, no explosion was heard, but a flash of lightning attended this dis- ^» i n ('.'*'■ n HKi ^^ j^pBp'i 1 H 222 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH I»OLE, tvas attended with a prodigioot fall of rain, every drop of the size of a common pea ; and the sea broke over the ship's bows to the height of the yard arms ; yet, at inter- vals, the weathsr was more clear ; but at tliese favourable opijortunities, they could not see their wished for object, the Resolu- tion, which gave them many moments re- plete with inexpressible uneasin-^ss. They then stood to the west ware*, to cruise in the latitude where tl.^y last saw her, accpriiing to agreement, in case of separation ; but the storm returned with renewed fury, and the weather being again exceeding hazy, they were compelled to bring to, which untoward circumstance prevented them from reaching the intended place ; however, they cruized as near the same as they could for three days, when, after having kept beating about the seas, in the most terrible weather that any ship could possibly endure, and giving all hopes over of joining their lost compa- nion, they bore away for winter-quarters, 1-400 leagues distant frod made sail for Frederick Henry Bay. At three o'clock P. M. Wfc were abreast of the westermost point of a yery deep bay called by Tasman, Stormy Bay. Several Tvl mds from the W. to the £. point of this bay and isome black rocks, we named tlio AND ROUTSD THE WORLD. 233 I and lanu jisco- 1 the ig. S. u be- I. we bear- d 140 iwicli. neven L f "vm. . We jes off ft" Ply. same AboiU ice are mbling [lamed) man in ape, in deg. E. full ol liflieult, tinually such a shore, second at cut- es from 3our or land, iidians y left, cli pro- >ur peo- he soil country on tlie ^H from two or nto tlie of any lie Iwat, y Bay- east of :ep bay Several of tlii» «U the ^ friars- At MTen« being abreast of a fine bay, with little wind, we oame to, and by a good observation found our latitude to be 43 deg- 20 min. S. and our longitude 147 deg. 34. min. E. On Thursday the 11th, at day Ijreak, we found a most commodious harbour, and at seven in the evening, wc anchored in seven fathoms water, nbuut one milp from the shore on each side. Maria's Is- land is about 5 or 6 leagues off. Here we lay five days, and found th^ country exceed" ing pleasant. The soil, though thin, is rich ; and the sides of the hills are covered with large trees, that grow to a great height before they branch off. They differ from any we had hitherto seen. All of them are of the evergreen kind, and the wood being very brittle, is easily split. Of these we found only two sorts. The leaves of one are Jong and narrow, and the seed, shaped like a but< ton, has a very agreeul)le smell. The lieaves of the other resemble those of the bay, and its seed that of the white thorn. Ffom tk?se trees, when cut down, issued, what the surgeons call, gum-lac. They are scorched near the ground^ by the natives Betting fire to the underwood in the most unfrequented places. Of the land birds, are some like a raven, others of the c/ow kind, paroquets, and several sorts of suiall birds. l)ne of our gentlemen shot a large white fowl of the eagle kind, about the size of a kite. The sea fowl are ducks, teal, and the sheldrake. Of beasts we saw only an opos- sum, but observed the dung of others which we pronounced to be of the deer kind. The fish we caught in the bay were mostly sharks, dog fish, and another sort called by the seamen nurses, full of white spots, pnd some small ones not unlike sprats, fn the lagoons are trout, and other sorts cf tish, a few of which we caught with hooks. Dur- injr our stay here, we did not see any of the natives, but perceived the smoke of their fires, eight or ten miles to the northward. It is evident that they come into this bay from their wigwams or huts, which are forjned of boughs, either broken, or split, and tied together with grass : the largest ends are stuck in the ground, and the smaller are brought to a point at the top ; making 7 the whole of a circular form, which is cover- ed with fern or bark in the middle ot which is the fire-place, surrounded with heaps of muscle, pear scallop, and crav-fish shells. In one of their huts we found thr stone they strike fire with, and some tinder made of the bark of a tree. In others of their wig- wams were one of their spears, sharp at on« end, with some bogs and nets made of grass, which contained, we imagine, their provi> sions and other neces.saries. We brought most of those things away, leaving in their room medals, gun-flints, a few nails, and an old iron hooped empty barrel. The huts of these people seemed to be built only for a day, the workmanship being so slender, that they wi>l I ha4;dly keep out a shower ol rain. The inhaJbitants lie on the ground, on dried grass, round their fires. They wander about in small parties, from one place to another in search of food, the chief end of their existence ; and, from what we could J4idge, they are altogether an ignorant wretclted race of mortals, though natives of a cowntry capable of producing every neces- sary of life, and a climate the finest in the world. Waving got on board our wood and water, we sailed out of Adventure Bay, in- tending to coast it, with a view of discover- ing whether Van Diemen's Land is part of New Holland. On Tuesday the 16th, we passed Maria's Islands, and on the 17th, Schouten's, when we hauled in for the main land, and stood off two or three leagues along shore. Here the country appeared well inhabited, and the land level ; but we discovered not any signs of a harbour or bay, wherein a ship Kiight anchor with safety. The land in lat. 40 deg, 5() min. S. trends to the westward, and from. this latitude to that of 39 deg. 50 min. is nothing but Islands and shoals ; the land appearing high, rocky, and biarren. We now stood to the northward, and again made land in 30 deg. but soon after discon- tinued this course, to fall in with the shore, being very dangerous. From Adventure Bay to where we stood away for New Zea- land, the coast lies in the direction S. half W. and N. hah E. and Capt, Furntaux was of opinion, that there are no straits between h. m li'lli' :»4 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, New Holland and Van Diemen's Land, but a very deep bay. The wind blowing^ a strong gale at S. S. E. and seeming likely to shift round to the eastward, be thought it most prudent to leave the coast, and make the best of his way for New Zealand, On the 24th, having left Van Diemen's Land, a very severe squall reduced us to reefed co .<^es. We shipped many waves, one of which stove the large cutter, and with much difficulty we prevented the small one from being washed over board. After this heavy gale, which ^continued twelve hours, we had more temperate weather, accompa- nied with calms. At length we made the coast of New Zealand in 40 deg. 30 min. S. latitude, having run 34 deg. of longitude irem Adventure Bay, in a passage of fifteen days. When we first came in sight of land, it appeared high, forming a confused group of hills and ^nountains. We steered along 8horethe northward, but our course was much retarded by the swell from the N. R ; On Saturday, April the 3rd, at six o'clock, A. M. we descried land, which upon a nearer approach we knew to be that which lies be- tween Rock Point and Cape Farewell, so >named by Capt. Cook, when on his return from his last voyage. Cape Farewell, the cqiith point of the entrance of the west side of the straits, bore E. by N. half N. three or four leagues distant. Sunday, the 4th, we coiitinned our course, and stood to |the east- ward for Charlotte's ^ound. On Monday the 5th, we worked up to windward under Point Jackson. From Stephen's Island to this point, the course is nearly S. E. distance eleven leagues. We fired several guns while fitundins: oif'aiid on, but saw not any inhabi- tants. At half past two P. M. we anchored in -tliirty-nine fathoms water, muddy ground i Point Jucksion being S. E. half E. three leas^iies. At eight we weighed and made sail. Tuesday, the 6th, at eight o'clock A. M. had the Sound open, and worked up under the western shore. At ten came to, close to some white rocks, in thirty-eight fa- tiionis, and on the 7tb, anchored in Ship Cove, in ten fathoms water, and moored the best bower to the'N. N. E. In the night beard the howling of dogs, and people bal- 8 looing on the east shore. Capt, Farneanx now ordered the large cutter to be manned, and sent her, with a proper guard, to exs^ mine, whether there were any signs of the Resolution having arrived at that harbour. The boat returned without the least disco- very, but that of the i)Ost, erected by the Endeavour's people, on the top of a hill, with her name and time ofheraeparture in 1770. Upon this, we instantly prepared to send the tents ashore, for the accommoda- tion of those who were afflicted with the scurvy ; while such who ei\joyed health were very alert in catching fish, which proved of great service in recovering our sick, to whom fresh provisions were both food and physic. On Friday, the 9th, three canroes came along side the Adventure, having fifteen In., dians of both sexes, all armed with battle axes, and with other offensive weapons made of hard wood, in the form of our oflicen spontoons, about four feet in length ; but tney had neither bows nor arrows. A kind of mat was wrapt round their shoulders, and tied about their waists with a girdle made of grass* Both men and women exhi, bited a most savage appearanae, and were very unwilling to venture on board. The Captain made them presents, and by signs invited them to trade. They accepted the presents, and some of them assuniied eon^ rage enough to trust themselves on deck. One of our gentlemen, seeing something wrapt up, had the curiosity to examine what it was, when to his great surprise, he found it to be the head of a man, which, by its bleeding, seemed to be fresh cut off. As Capt. Cook had expressed his abhorrence of such unnatural acts, the Indians were very apprehensive of its being forced from them, and the man, to whom it belonged, trembled for fear of being punished. They therefore, with snrprisinia^ dexterity, in "order to conceal the head, shitted it from one to another, till it was conveyed out of sight : endeavouring, at the same time, to convince us by signs, that no such thing was in their possession. They then left the ship, awl went on shore, not without some visible signs of displeasure. In this visit they often men- tionea the name of Tupia. and apon beinc AND ROUND THE WORLD. 32.1 informed he died at Batavia, some of them ivitli much concern inquired whether we jcilled him, or if he died a natural death. By these questions, we concluded these In- dians were some of the same tribe who had visited the Endeavour's company. They returned in the afternoon, with fish and t^rn roots, which they bartered for nails, to them the most valuable articles ; but the man and woman who had the head were not amongf them. Having a catalogue of words in their lan!,^iiage, we called several things by name, at wliich they seemed much surprised, and offered a quantity of fish for the catalogue. On Saturday the 10th, about eight in the morning, fivfi double canoes came along side the Adventure, with about fiftv Indians, at the head of whom was their chief We purchased of them, for nails, and bottles, their implements of war, stone hatchets, cloth, &c. upon which they set a high price. Several of their head men came on board, nor would they quit the ship by fair means ; but upon presenting a musket with a bayonet fixed, they quickly took leave of us, seemingly in ^reat good humour ; and afterwards they visited us daily, bringing with them fish in abundance, which they exchanged for nails, beads and other trif Tliey behaved quite peaceably, and, haviuf. disposed of their cargoes, departed at all times, seemingly, well pleased. We now p!;iced a guard on a little Island, which, at low '>vater, is joined to Mortuara, called the Hippah, at which place was an old fortified town, that had been abandoned by the na- tives. We took possession of their houses, and hy sinking p fort within side, made them very comfortable. Here our astrono- mer erected his olwervatory ; at the same time we struck our tents on Mortuara ; and liavina: run farther into the cove with the ship, we moored her tor the winter, on the west sjiore, and gave her a winter coat to preserve her hull • then after sending ashore (he spars and lumber of the decks to be caulked, we pitched our tents near the river, at the watering-place. On Tuesday, the 1 Ith, of May, several of oiircrew, whowereatworkon sliore, very sen- vbly kit the shock of an earthquake, from G s which oircumstanoe we think it probable, that there are volcanos in New Zealand, as these phaenomena generally go together. On the 12th, the weather continuing fair, and the Indians friendly, the Captain and officers yvere preparing to go ashore, vvhen about nine, A. M. no less than ten canoes came padling down the Sound. We count- ed one hundred and twenty natives all armed. When along side of the ship, they expressed a desire to be admitted on board ; but Capt. Furneaux, not liking their looks and ges- tures, gave orders, that a few only should be admitted at a time. These behaved so disorderly that the sailors were obliged to turn them out, and it now appeared plainly that the intentions of our visitors were to make themselves masters of the ship: how- ever finding the crew to be upon their guard, tliey became more civil, but not before a great gun was discharged over their heads, which alone intimidated them. Being thus reduced to order, the people on board pro- duced several articles, such as beads, small clasp knives, scissars, cloth, paper, and other trifles, which they bartered for battle axes, spears, weapons of various sorts, fish-hooks, and other curiosities, the manufacture of th« country. Being visibly disappointed in the 'xecution of their grand df.sign, they took to their canoes, all gabbling together in a language, a word of which no one on board could und Tstand : but previous to tlieii de- parture, the Captain and officers made ])re- sents to those among tht m who appeared (o be their chiefs, uliiclt they accepted with great apparent s tisfaction. Three months were now elapsed since the Adventure lost sight of the Resolution ; but on the 17th, she was s...n at Jacknon Point. We immediately se- out boats to her assist* ance, it being calm, to tow her into the Sound. In the evening she anchored about a mile without us, and next morning weigh- ed and warped within us. The pleasure the ship's companies felt at meeting can only he conceived by those who have been in like circumstances, each were as eager to relate, as the others were to hear. Having thus related the progress of the Adventure, we now come to record the transactions of both s'M F'f 'n ;-'^l J2(5 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE. ships after their Junction. It were little more tlian a repetition of the Adventure's ilislr^sses to recapitulate the effects of the Imisieroiis weather that were fdt by the crew of the Resolution ; being sometimes snrrounded with Islands of ice, out of which they could only extricate themselves by the utmost exertion of their skill in seamanship, sometimes ii.>volved in sheets of sleet and snow, and in mists so dark, that a man on the forecastle could not be seen from the quarter deck; sometimes the sea rolling mountains high, while thi Tunninff tackle, made brittle by the severity of the frost, was frequently snapping, and sometimes render- ed immoveable. Amidst the hardships of such a traverse, there is nothing more asto- nishing, than that the crew should continue in perfect health, scarce a man being so ill as to be incapable of duty. Nothing can redound more to the honour of Capt. Cook, than his paying particular attention to the preservation of health among his company. JBy observing the strictest discipline from the highest to the lowest, his commands ivere duly observed, and punctually execut- ed. When the service was hard, he temper- ed the severity thereof by frequently reliev- ing those employed in the performance, and having all hands at command, he was never under the necessity of continuing the labour of any set of men beyond what their strength and their spirits could bear. Another ne- cessary precaution was, that in fine or settle- ed weather, the Captain never suffered any of his men to be idle l)ut constantly employed the armourers, the carpenters, the ])rofe.ssed navigators, foremastmen, &c. in doing some- thing each in his own way, which, tlionifh not immediately wanted, he knew tht re might be a call for before the voyage was completed. Having by this inears left no «pare time for gaming, quarrelling: or riot- ^g, he kept them in action, and punished drunkenness with the utmost severity ; and thus by persevering in a steady line of con- duct, he was enabled to keep the sea till reduced to a very scanty portion of water ; and when he despaired of finding any new land, and had fully satisfied himself of the uon-existence of any continent in the quar- 2 ter he had traversed, he directed his course to Charlotte's Sound, the place appointed for both ships to rendezvous in case of separa- tion, and appeared off the same, (as has been already related) on Tuesday, the 18th of May, 1773, and here we discovered our con- sort the Adventure, by the signals she made to U5, an event every one iu both ships felt with inexpressible satisfaction. The kiext morning after our arrival, bein» Wednesday, the 19th, Capt. Cook went off in the boat, at day-break, to gather scurvy grass, celery, and other vegetables. At breakfast time he returned with a boat load, enough for the crews of both ships ; and knowing their salutary efhcacy in removing scorbutic complaints, he ordered that they should be boiled with wheat and portuKle broth, every morning fbr breakfast, and with pease and broth for dinner, and thusdresseij they are extremely beneficial. It was now the Captain's intention to visit Van Dienien's land, in order to determine whether it made a part of New Holland ; but as Capt» Fur- neaux had cleared up this point, it was re« solved to continue our researches to the east between the latitudes of 4i deg. and 46 deg. In consequence of this determination Capt, Cook ordered out his m«n to assist the crew of the Adventure in preparing her for sea. He was induced more especially to this, be cause he knew refreshments were to be pro*- cured at the Society Isles. On the 20th, we visited the fortifications of the natives where the observatory was fixed. It is only acces. siide in one place, and there by a narrow, sent to Long I<a- J table to the boy, who feared to appear be- i 5 fore his father in the cabin, until brought in by Mr. Forster ; when he told a very la- mentable story against Gourey, the great dog (for so they called all the quadrupeds we had aboard) nor would he be reconcded till his shirt was washed and dried. From this trifling story may be seen how liable we are to mistake these people's meaning, and to- ascribe to them customs they are utter stran* gers to. This day a large double canoe approached, well manned: it came within musket shot, and contained about thirty men. Our friends on board told us they were enemies very earnestly. Among these new visitors, one stood at the head of the canoe, and another at the stern, while the rest kept their seats. One of them held a green bough, the New Zealand flag in his hand, and spoke a i'ew words. The other made a long liarangue, in solemn and well articulated sounds. Being invited aboard, he*: 'ast ventured, and was followed soon bv the rest, who eagerly traded with us. Ihey directly saluted the natives on board, by an application of their nosee, and paid the- same compliment to the gentlemen on the quarter-deck. The chief's name was Teiratu. They all inquired for Tupia, and were much concerned at hearing of his death. These people were taller than any we had hitherto seen in New Zealand, and their dress and ornaments bespoke them superior to the inhabitants of Queen Char- lotte's Sound. Their tools were made with great attention, and were elegantly carved : we obtained a few of these, and also some musical instruments from them. They made but a short stay, and, embarking, they all went over to JVIortuara, where, by the help of our glasses, we discovered four or five ca- noes, and several people on the shore. About noon Capt. Cook, accompanied by several other gentlemen followed them, and were received with every mark of friendship^ The Captain distribute*! several presents, among wliicb were a great number of brass medals inscribed with the kmg's title on one side, and the ship which undertook this voy- age on the other. Teiratn appeared to , be the chief among these people, by the great degree of respect paid him. Capt. Cook S30 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POl.r., coridiicted Teiratu to the garden he had planted, and obtained a promise from him that he would not suffer it to be destroyed. Eiirly in the morning of the 7th of June, yife sailed from this place in company with the Adventure, but had frequent hindrances from contrar>[ winds. On the 22nd of July we were in lat. 32 deg. 30 min^ longi- tude, 133 deg. 40 min. W. And now the weather was so warm, that we were obliged to put on lighter clothes. We did not see a single bird this day, which was rather re- markable, as not one day had hitherto pass- ed since we left the land without seeing se- veral. Capt. Cook having heard that the crew of the Adventure were sickly, went on board the 29th, of July, when he found the cook dead, and twenty men ill with the scurvy and flux. Only three men were on the sick list on board the Resolution, which was certciinly owing to the Captain's abso- Jutely enf«»rcing the eating celery and scurvy grass with the food, though at first the crew did not like it- All hopes ofdiscovering a continent now vanished, as we had got to the northward of Capt. Carteret's tracts, and we only expected to see Islands ^ill our return to the south. Every circumstance considered we were in- duced to believethatthereisno Southern Con- tinent between New Zealand and America; it is very certain that this passage did not produce any sure signs of one. On the 6th of August, Capt. Furneaux came on board the Resolution to dinner, and reported, that his people were much better, that the flux had quite letit them, and that the scurvy was at a stand. The scorbutic people had been well supplied with cyder, which in a great measure contributed to this happy change. Land appeared to the south on the eleventh instant at day break, which we judged to be one of those Islands disco- vered by Mons. Bougainville. We called it Resolution Island, it lies in the latitude of 17 deg. 24 min. longitude 141 deg. 39 min. W. We did not stay to examine it, as it did not appear large enough to supply our wants ; we therefore determined to make the best of our way to Otaheite, where we were sure of a plentiful supply of reiresh- 6 ments. In the evening we saw land again, which in all probability was anotlier of Mons. Bougainville's discoveries. This ue called Doubtful Island. On the moriiiii >wtht irum inlia- parts, ; thej' and it none ] ton b«- |in cor,' lie utv round It there] Boihl gtuosity )f shiii-] break- |«s, am R^solwlio" €ame at three fathoms water, 111(1 sferuck at every fall of the sea, but the Adventure brouurht \\\> under our bow with- out striking. Tiie dreadful surf which broke under onr stern threatened our shipwreck everv moment. At length we found ground A little without the bason, and got the ship afloat by cuttinif away the bower anchor, and tlie tide ceased to act in the same direc- tion. We happily towed off the Resolution, and all the boats were ordered to assist the Adventure. We happily jfot once more safe at sea, after narrowly escaping shipwreck. A number of the natives were on board the ships while we were in this periJous situa- tion, but were totally insensible of any dan- ger, even while we were striking, and when they parted with us they seemed quite un- concerned. We anchored in Oati-piha Bay very near the shore, and were visited by a great number of the natives, who brought roots, fruit, &c. Presents were made to their chiefs, of shirts, axes, aod other articles, in return for which they promised hogs, fowls, &c. but we believe they never intended to keep their promise, Fn the afternoon, Cap- tains Cook and Furneaux landed to sound the disposition of the natives, and to view the watering-place. The natives behaved with great civiliti^, and we had a very con- wnient snppdy of water. We recovered the Resolution's bower an- chor, which we were obliged to leave ; but the Adventure lost three in the time of our extremity, which were never recovered. We were still supplied with fruit and roots, but not in large quantities. A party of men were trading on shore, under the protection of a guard. We could not get any hogs from the natives, though plenty were said to be seen about their habitations, they all said they belonged to Waheatow their chief, whom we had not seen. A man who pre- tended to be a chief came on board with se- veral of his friends, to whom presents were made, but he was detected in handing seve- ral things over the quarter gallery; and as complnints of the same nature were alleilged against those on the deck, the Captain took the liberty to turn them all out of the ship. The Captain was so exasperated at the con- duct of the pretended chitef, thr.*t he fired two muskets over his bead* which terrified him so much, that he quitted his canoe i^nd took to the water. On sending a iwAi. to take M|i the canoe, the people from tUe sUor^ pelted the boat with stones. The captain went hinr^xelf in another boat to protect lier, he likewi&e ordered a cauaon loaded with ball to be fired along th* <;oast, whiicli ter- rified them suf{ieiently,aiid Im brought away the canoes without any opposition. They soon became friends again, and the canoes were returned. Two or three people began to inquire after Tupia, but they were soou satisfied when they heard the cause of his death. Several people asked for Mr. Banks, and other people who wtre at Otaheite with Capt. Cook before. We were informed by these people that there had been a battld fought between the two kingdoms, that Toutaha, the reo'ent of the greater peninsula was slain, and that Otoo reigned in his stead. In this battle Tubourai, Tamaide, and ae-* veral of our old frieixds fell. A peace was now fully established. On the I9th, the two commanders made an excursion along the coast, and were en- tertained by a chief (whom they met) with some excellent fish, &c. to whom in return they made several presents. On the 20th, one of the natives stole a gun from the ])eople on shore. Some of the i'atives pur- sued him of their own accord, v.ho knocked him dov^n, and brought back the musket. We imagine that fear operated more with the.n in this business than any other motive. On the 21st, a chief came to visit us, who brought in a present of fruit, which proved to be some cocoa-nuts that we had drawa the water from, and thrown overboard. He had so artfully tied them up, that we -did not soon discover the deceit. He did not betray the least emotion when we told him of it, and opened two or three of them him- self, as if he knew nothing of the matter; he then pretended to be satisfied that it was really so, and went on shorci from wlience he sent some hananoes and plan- tains. We were informed that Waheatovv was come into the neighbourhood, and wish- ed to see Capt, Cook, who accordingly we:.l >:t ^iRn w ■ 'ip)f m ffl'^J •jpM wi ^it^l^ l^^l 203 VOYAGE TOWAllDS I'HE SOLl'II POLE. I ill compuiiy with Capt. Furneaux and some gentlemen : they were likewise attended by mme natives. About a mile from the land- ing place thej^ mft the chief, advancintr to meet them with a numerous train, mien the prince perceived the company, he halt- ed. He knew Capt. Cook very well, as they had seen each other several times in 1709. He went at that time by the name of Terace, and took his father's name at his death. We found him sitting on a stool ; and as soon as the usual salutation was over, he seated Capt. Cook on the same stool with himself; the rest sat on the ground. He inquired aftfr several who had been on the former voyage, and .seemed sorry when we told him we must sail the next day, offering the Captain that if he would stay he should have hugs in plenty. Capt. Cook made him many presents, and staid with him the whole morning. This party returned on board of ship to dinner, and made this chief another visit in the afternoon, made him more presents, and he gave us two hogs. At the ditferent trading places some others were got, so that a meal's fresh pork served for the crews ot^both ships. Early in the morning of the 24th, we put to sea, tind were accompanied by several canoes, who brought cargoes of frui^for sale ; neither didthey return till they had disposed of them. The sick people on board the Adventure got much relief from these fruits. We left a lieutenant on sliore, in order to bring some hogs, which they promised to i^end by him. He returned on the 25th, and bronght eight pigs with him. We arrived at Matavai Bay in the evening of the 25th, and our decks were crouded with natives before we could get to anchor, almost all of -them were acquainted with Capt. Cook. Otoo their king and a great crowd were got together on the shore. Capt. Cook was going on -ihore to pay him a visit, bat was told that he was gone to Oparee in M fright ; which seemed very extraordinary to the captain, as all others were much pleased to see him. Maritata, a chief, was on boards and advised the Captain to defer his visit till next morning. The Captain let out on the 26th, for Opajee, after having 8 g(iven directions to fetch tent.i for the recep. tion of the sick, &c. Capt. Furneaux, Ma. ritata and his wife, and some others, went with the Captain. They wer« conducted to Otoo as soon as they were land«d, who sut on the ground uncfer a shady tree, with a greal number of people around him. Capt. Cook made him several presents, after tlie usual compliments had passed, being very well persuaded that it was much to his in. terest to establish a friendship with this man. His attendants also had presents made to them, they offered cloth in return, which was refused, being told that what was given was merely out of friendship. Otoo inquired for all the gentlemen who had been there before, as well as for Tupia, and promised to send so4ne hogs on board, but was very backward in saying he would come on board himself, being, as he said, much afraid of the great ^uns. He was certainly the most timid prince, as all hii actions demonstrated. He was a persona- ble well made man, six feet high, and about thirty years of age. His father and all- his subjects were uncovered before him, that is, their heads and shoulders were made bare. On the 27th, the king Otoo came to p.iy us a visit, attended by a numerous tniin'; he sent before him two large fish, a iiog, some fruits, and a large quantity of cluth. After much persuasion he came on board himself, accompanied by his sisters, a younger brother, &c. with many attend- ants, who all received presents ; and when they had breakfasted, carried them home to Oparee. Upon landing, an old lady, the mother of Toutaha, met Capt. Cook, seized him by both hands, and, weeping bitterly, told him that her son and his friend Toutaha were dead. Had not the king taken her from Capt. Cook, he must have joined her lainentations. It was with a good deal of ditHculty that the captain prevailed on the king to let him see her again, when he made her some presents. Capt. Fumeau-x gave the king a male and female goat, which we hope will multiply. A. lieutenant was sent to Attahouroii on the28tb, to purchase hogs, The king, with his sister and some attend' ants, paid us another v\sit soon after suD AND ROUND THE WORLD. 393 n«e rise, anJ broufifht with them a hoff, some on shore, to bring* off any of our people who fiuit, and some more cloth. They likewise miffht be found the e without orders, and went on board the Adventure, and made to discover the occasion of the disturbance. Oupt. Furneanx the same presents. Soon The boat soon returned, with a seaman and after they returned, and broua^ht Capt. Fur- three marines; others were taken, who l)e- ncunx witii them. Capt. Cook made them louifed to the Adventure, and even put a good return for the presents they brought, under close contineineut till the mornins'i aiid dressed out the kmg's sister to the great- when they were severely punished accord- est advantage. The king was carried ajfain ing to their demerits. The people would to Oparee, when his Otaheitan msgesty not confess any tiling, and it did not appear ihouglit proper to depart, and was entertain- that any material injury hiui been done. t'tl as he went with bagpipes and the sea- The disturbance might be occasioned by th« men dancing Some of his people danced also in imitation of the seamen, and per- formed their parts tolerably well. Toutaha's inotiier agam pr«sented herself to Capt. Couk ; but could not look up(>n him with- fellows making too free with the wonjen : notwithstanding this, the alarm was so great* that the natives Hed from their habitations in the night ; and the inhabitants of the whole coast were terrified. The king him- out shedding many tears. The next day self had fled a great way from the place of the king promised to visit us again, but said liis abode ; and when Capt. Cook saw him, we must first wait u|ion him. The lieute- he coinplained to him of the disturbance, nant whom we sent for hogs returned only Capt. Cook presented the king >r!th three with a promise of having some, if he would Cape sheep, as it was his last visit. With go back in a few days, this present he was very well pleased, though On the 29th, the commanders took a trip he had not much reason to be so, as they to Oparee, early in the morning, attended were all weathers ; this he was made ac- hy some officers and gentleman, and made quainted with. The king's fears were now the king such presents as he had not before dissipated, and he presented us with three seen. One of them was a broadsword; at hogs, one of which was very small, which we the sight of which he was very much intimi- took notice of. Soon after a person ctme to dated, and desired it might be taken out of the king, and seemed to speak very perenrip' his sight. With a vast deal of argument he torily about the hogs, and we thought he was prevailed upon to suffer it to be put on was angry with him for giving us so many ; hisside, where it remained a very short time, and more so when he took the little pig We received an invitation to the theatre, away with him ; but we were much raista- where we were entertained with a dramatic ken, for soon after we were gone, another piece, consisting of a comedyanddance. The hog was brought to us, larger than the other subject we could not well nnd out ; though two. The king .seemed much affected whea we heard frequent mention of Capt. Cook's Capt. Cook told him he should leave the name during the performance. The per- Island the next day. They embraced each formers were one woman, which was no less other several times, and departed, a personage than the king's sister, and five On the 1st of September we determined men, and their music consisted of only three to depart, as the sick were nearly recover«d, drums. The whole entertainment was well the necessary repairs of the ship were corn- conducted, and lasted about two hours, pleted, and plenty of water provide?!. Most VVhen this diversion was over, the king de- of the day was employed in unmooring the sired us to depart, and loaded us with fruit ships ; and in the afternoon the lieutenant and fish. The king sent more fruit and fi«h returned, who had been sent for the ho^^s the next morning. promised. With him came Pottatou (the In the evening of the 30th, we were alarm- chief of the district of Attahounou,) with his ed with the cry of murder from the shore, wife, to pay Capt. Cook a visit, and mad^ A boat was immediately armed« and sent bin a. present of two hogs and some fish* ^ . H h i34 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE. The lieutenant got likewise (wo more hogs. As the wind wus westerly, we were oblifjped tii (iihiTiiss onr friends .sooner than they wi8h> ed ; but *!iey were very well satisfied with the reception they met with. A young man, n^tnied Poreo, came on board some hours before we e;nt under sail, and desired to go ivifh us, to which we consented ; and at the tame time he asked tor an axe and a spike nail for his father, who came with him on board. They were accordinf;!y given him, and they parted with great inditterence, v^hich seemed to indicate that they had de- ceived us, and no such consanguinity sub- sisted. Presently a canoe, conducted by two men, came along side, and demanded poreo in the name oi Otoo. We informed them that we would part with him if thev would return the hatchet and spike nail, but they said they were ashore; so the young gentleman sailed along with us, though he wep^ when he saw. the land at our btern. On the 2nd, we steered our course for the Island of Huaheine, and the Reso- lution anchored in twenty-four fathoms water on the 3rd instant, but the Adventure got ashore on the north side of the channel, but she was happily got off again without receiving any damage. The natives received us with the utmost cordiality, several of whom came on board before our command* ers went on shore. Some presents were dis- tributed among them, which were gratefully returned by a plentiful supply o( hogs, fruit, &c. Here we had a tine prospect of being ))lentifull}^ supplied with fresh pork and lowls, which was to us very pleasing. Two trading parties were sent ashore on the 4th instant, which were very well conducted. Capt. Cook was informed that Oree was still alive, and waited to see him. The com- manders, with Mr. Forster, went to the place appointed for the interview, accom- panied by one of the natives. The boat was landed before the chief's house, and we were desired to remain in it till the necessary ceremony was gone through. There stood close to the shore five young plantain trees, which are their emblems of peace: these were, with sorne ceremony, brought on tKMircl separately. Tbe first three were each accompanied by a young pig, whose ears were oniamented with cocoa-nut fibres ; the fourth plantain tree was accompani^'d by a dog. All these had particular names nuj meanings, which we could not understand. The chief had carefiillj^ presenred a piece of pewter, with an inscription on it, which Capt. Cook had presented him with in 17()9, toiarether with a piece of counterfeit English com, which, with a few beads, were all jn the same bag tiie captain made for theiu ; these the chief sent on board. This uart of the ceremony bemg over, we were oesired b}r our guide to decorate three voung plan, tain trees with ub\\% looking-glasses, beuijs, medals, &c. With these in our hands we landed, and were conducted through the multitude. We were directed to sit down a few paces before the chief, and the plan- tains were laid one by one before him. We were told that one wis for God, another for the king, and the third for friendship. This being done, the king came to Capt. Cook, fell on his neck, and kissed him. A great effbsion of tears fell down the venera- ble cheeks of this old man ; and if ever tears spoke the language of the heart, surely these did. Presents were made to all hjg attendants and friends. Capt. Cook re^ard< ed him as a father, and therefore presented him with the most valuable articles he had. He gave the Captain a hog. and a srood deal of cloth, with the promise that all his wants should be supplied. Soon after we returned on board, fourteen hogs were sent us, with fowls and fhiits in abundance. In the mom. in^ of the dth instant we were visited by this good old man, who brought a hog and some fruit ; ipdeed he sent the Captain every day ready dres.sed fruit and roots in great plenty. This morning the lieutenant went on sfiore in search of more hogs, and return- ed in the evening with twenty-eight, and about seventy more were purchased on shore. On Monday the 6th, of September, the trading party went on shore as usual ; it only consisted of three people. Capt. Cook went on shore after breakfast, and learnt that one of the inhabitants had been very insolent and troublefome. This man was thewi liabit, 'i'he ( ceivec hefoff The < was a him, { a gent two II ofevei did hi several made < ther of to GOV ap|)ear her of Hedat some o none .« When I his con his grie rangue ness of his ere them, efthet promi.se m his desired boat, bi his sufel hint fro the gri they us tears, an mo%t dia to theni Captain lie desir ?)erson w his sister spirit eg in searcl venient chief lee and inqi then we rcfreshffl "TMv AND ROUND THE WORLD. 235 ler, the ual ; it >t. Cnok I learnt en very an was tliewu to the ('aptain, equipped in h\n wsr habit, niid lie hud n club in each hand. The Captain took these from him, as he per- ceived hini bent on inischiet', broke them before his face, and obUged him to retire. The Cautain being informed that this man^ wan a onief, became a little suspicious of him, arid sent for a guard. About this time a (rentl?mau had gone out botanizing alone ; two men assaulted him, and stripped him of every thing but his trowsers ; luckily they did him !io harm, though they struck him several times with his own hanger. They made oft' when they had done this, and ano- ther of the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him. This gentleman presently appeared at the trading place, where a num- ber of the natives were assembled, who all fled at seeing him. Capt. Conk iiersnaded some of them to return, assuring them that none siiould suffer who were innocent. VVhen the king heard this complaint, he and his companions wept bitterly ; and as soon as Ids griet was assuaged, he made along ha< rangue to the people, telling them the base- ness of such actions, when the Captain and liis crew had always behaved so well to them. He then took a particular account of the things the gentleman had lost, and promised they should be returned, if it was in his (lower to iind them. After this he desired Capt. Cook to follow him to the boat, but the people being apprehensive of his safety, used #»very argument to dissuade Inm from it. It is impossible to describe the grief they expressed in the intreaties they used ; every face was bedewed with tears, and every mouth was filled with the most dissuasive .'<: rguments. Oree was deaf to them all, and insisted on going with the Captain ; when they both were in the boat, he desired it might be put off The onlr person who did not oppose his going, "ivas i)i<; sister, and she shewed a magnanimity of spirit equal to her brother. We proceeded in search of the robbers, as far as it was con- venient by water, and then landed. The chief led the way, travelled several miles, and inquired after them of all he saw. We then went into a cottage, and had some refreshment. The king wanted to proceed 3 farther, i^nd was with great diflicuUy dis- suaded from it by Capt Cook. When we returned to v'lie boat, we were met by the king's sister, who had travelled over land to that place, accompanied by several other persons. The king insisted on goin:;- into the boat Mith us, as well as his sister. We returned t) the ship, and the king made a very hearty dinner; though his sister, ac- cording to custom, eat notliing. We made them suitable presents for the confidence they had placed in us, and set them ashore amidst the acclamations of multitudes. Peace was now perfectly re-established, pro- visions |)oured in from all quarters, the gen- tleman's hanger and coat were returned, and thus ended these troublesome transac- tions. We went to take our leave of Oree while the ships were unmooring, and presented him with things both valuable and useful. We lefl: him a copper-plate with this inscrip- tion. "Anchored here, his Britannic Ma- jesty's ships Resolution and Adventure, September 1773." After we had traded for such things as we wanted, we took our leave* which was a very afTectionate one. On re- turning to the ships, they were crouded, as on our arrival, with canoes filled with hogs, fowls, &c. Soon after we were on board, the king came, and informed us that the robbers were taken, and desired us to go on shore, that we might behold their exemplary punishment. This we should have been glad to have dorie, as so much pains had been taken to discover them ; but it was out of our p jwer, as the Adventure was out of harbour, and we were under^sail. The ITJod old king staid with us till we were iiear two miles out at sea, and then, af^er taking another affectionate leave, parted* During our stay here, we procured uuwardil of three hundred hc^ besides fowls and Auit in great abundance. While at this Is- land, Capt. Fumeaux engaged a young man, named Omai, a native of Ulietea, who had been dispossessed of his property by the people of Bolabpla, to accompany him on liis voyage. TKis young man has a good understanding, honest principles, and a na> tural good behaviour. But bis hittor/ is s^ fi V&^,i, 'II 'fni mm |B wm ^^llBr « .;^9p W S^wl f36 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE. well known in England, that we will not enlarge upon it. On Wednesday the 8th, we entered the harbour ofOhamaneno ; the natives crouded about us with hog^ and fruit as soon as we were anchored. We refused the hogs, as we had already more than we could man- age; but several of the principal people obliged us to take them whether we would or no. We made a visit on the 9th, to Oreo, who is the chief of this part of the Island of tJlitea. He expressed great satisfaction on seeing Capt. Cook again, and desired him to exchange names with him, which the lai.er agreed to : this is a distinguishing mark of friendship. Here we traded as usual, but the balance of trade was much in our favour. On the 10th, the chief entertain- ed us with a comedy ; a very entertaining part of which was a theft, committed, with amazing dextority, by a man and his accom- plice. Before the thief has time to carry otf the prize, he is discovered, and a scutHe en- sues ; the discoverers are va.i^uished, and the thieves go otl'in triumph. We returned to ("inner atler the piay was over, and as we were walking on shore in the evening, one of the natives informed us that there were nine uninhabited Islands to the westward. Oreo and his son paid us a visit early in the morning of the lUh of September, and Ijronglit as usual, hogs and fruit with them. We tlre«-.sc»i due ^outh in a shirt, and some other articles, of which h& was not a little proud. After staying some hours, they wen.'. ashore ; and so did Capt. Cook soon after, but to another part of the shore When the chief heard he was landed, he went of his own accord, and put a hog and some fruit in the boat, and returned without saying any thing of it to any other person. He after- Wards came with some friends to dinner. After dinn.;r, Po-oorau, who is the most emi- nent chief f»f the Island, made us a visit. He was introduced by Oreo, and brought a present with him ; for which he received a nanution, who spoke the language of the native!! tolerably well. In this Morai, or burying place, was a Tupapow, on which lay a dead body, and some viands. We iirst inquired, if the plantains, &c. before us, were for the Etna, and if they offered to him hoars, dogs, and fowls? They answered in the affirmative. We then, after tu few more introductory questions, asked, if they sacri- ficed any of the human species to the Etna ? They answered. Yes, Taata-eno, that is, bad men, who they first beat till they were dead ; but good men were not sacrificed. We ask- ed him if any Earees were } They replied, that hojfs were given to Etna, and only Taa- ta-eno. All the answers seemed to tend to the sante point, and meant that men for cer- tain crime's were condemned to be sacrificed, l>r(>vi led they had not wherewithal to redeem themselves, and such will generally be found amoni? the lower class of people But, notwithstanding those of whom these in- quiries were made, took some pains to explain the whole of this religious rite, yet we were not sufiiciently acquainted with their lan- guage, to make ourselves complete masters of the subject ; but we have not the least doubt remaining of the certaintv of the fact, having since been informed by Omai, that it is undoubtedly a custom with them to ofier human sacrifices to the Supreme Being. The object, according to his account, or who shall be sacrificed, depends solely on the pleasure of the hi^h-priest, who, on any solemn occasion, retires alone into the tem- ple, and, when he comes from thence, in- forms the people, that he has seen and talk- ed with the Etna: (the high-priest only having this privilege) f that he requires a human sacrifice ; and that such a particular person is the man, whom he names, and who immediately is killed, falling most probably a victim to the priest's resentment. These people have a simple, but, to us, a nauseous manner of preparing the plant called Ava-ava, which we have noticed in the first part of Ibis work. This is pressed from the roots, and not from the leaves, as we first thouglit. The makers of the liquor chew a quantity of the root till it is soft and yulpy : then every one spits the juice be has t pressed out into one and the same platter. When a sufficiency for their use is thus pro- cured, more or less water is mixed with it, ac- cording to the strength required; after which the diluted liouor is strained through some fibrous stuflT like fine shavings. Having undergone this process, it is fit for drinkine, which is always done immediately. It drinks flat and msipid^ but has a pepperisb taste ; and an intoxicatmg quality, the effect of which we saw in one instance ; however, the natives drink it for that reason with freat moderation, and but little at a time, 'he root is sometimes chewed by them as the Europeans do tobacco, and sometimes we have seen them eat the same. Great quantities of this plant are cultivated at Ulietea ; at Otaheite very little ; but we hem lieve there are few Islands in this sea that do not produce more or less of it. We must not omit to remark here, that great injustice has been done the women of the Society Isles, by those who have repre- sented them as a race cf prostitutes without exception, who will sell their favours for pin to any purchaser, which is far frem be- ing true ; for the enjoyment of either the married or unmarried women, of the higher and middling classes, is a favour as diffi- cult to be obtained here, as in any other country whatever, and even many women in the lower class will admit of no such fa- miliarities. That the proportion of prosti- tutes are greater than that of other countries may be true, and most of them were such who frequented our ships and tents on shore. By observing these to mix indiscriminately with women of the first rank, we concluded hastily, that all females were of ti'ie same turn, and that the only difference was in the price ; but the truth is, as we have more than once before observed, the woman who prost'.tutes herself, does not seem, in the fio- pular opinion, to have committed a rrinie, which ought to exclude her from the esteem and society of the community in general. It must be confessed that all the women in this part of the world are complete coquettes, and that few among them fix any hrmnds to their Cf»nversation ; theretbre it is no won- der that they have obtained the character o/ I H ' :^H r^' 1. .jy.'f''i 'tifci '^^% ^B'M '^ '^^1 ra^''tl ll^i SMlp: '1 1^1 l« Ht '^liii BMh,^ ^ Mj^yi ■■m MO VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUIH POLE, women of pleasurp ; yet we would think it very uiijast, if the ladies of England were to be cojulenmed in the lump, from the con- duct of those on board of ships in our naval ports, t)r of those who infest the purlieus of Coven t-!;arden, and Drury-lane. Respecting the geography of these Isles, we tinnk it necessary to add to what has been said in the narrative of our former voy- age, that we found the latitude of the bay of Oaitipiha, in Oiaheite, to be ]7deg. 46. min. 28 sec. 8. and the east longitude from Point Venus, to be deg. 21 min. 25 sec. and an half, or 149 deg. 13. min. 24 sec. W. from Greenwicli. It is highly probable, that the whole Island is of greatei' extent than at first we supposed it to be in 1769, by two miles, and 4 min. 3 quarters respectively. When our astronomers made their observa- tions on Point Venus, they found the lati- tude to be 17 deg. 29 min. 13 .sec. S. which differs by 2 seconds from that determined by Mr. Green and Capt. Cook ; and its longitude, namely, 149 deg. 34 min. 49 see. and an half VV. may be as accurately laid down, for any thing- yet known to the con- trary. After our departure from the Socieljr Isles, and leaving Uiietea, it was our intention to get into the latitudes of the Islands of Mid- dleburgh and Amsterdam, to which end, on Friday the 17th of September, we steered \o the west, inclining to the south, with a view of getting clear of the tracks of former navigators. We proceeded at night with great circumspection, frequently laving to, lest we should pass any land unobserved. On the 21st, and the whole of the 22nd, we had rain, thunder, lightning, a large swell from the Kouth, and the winld blew from the ^. W. for several days ; a sign to us, that in that direction, no laud was near us. This was discovered from the mast-head, on Thursday, the 23rd, stretching from S. by W. to S. W. by S. We hauled up with the wind at S. E. and found it to consist of two or three small Tslots, united by breakers, as are most of the low Isles in the sea ; the whole being in a triangular form, and about six leagues in circuit. This Island ia in la- titude 19 deg. 18 min. S. and in 158, deg. 8 54 min. W. longitude. Each of the small connected Isles are clothed with wood, par- ticularly of the cocoa-nut kind ; but we saw no traces of inhabitants, and had reason to believe there were none. To these Islots we gave the name of Hervey's Island, in ho- nour of Capt. Hervey of the navy, one ot the lords of the Admiralty, and now earl of Bristol. As the landing on this isle would have occasioned a delay, we resumed our course to tlie west, in which we saw some men of war, troj)ic birds, and flying fish. On Saturday., the 25th, we again began to use our stra biscuit, the fruit being all con- sh.ntd ; but of fresh pork each man had every day a necessary allowance. On Wed- nesday, the 20th, in iatitude 21 deg. 26 min. S. we altered our course at noon \V. halfS. On Friday, the 1st, of October, at two o'clock P. M. we made the island of Mid- dleburgh, and the next morning bore up for the west side thereof, nassing between thd same, and a small island that lay off it, where we found a clear cham^el two miles broad. After running aboju two thirds of its length, half a mile from the shore, we observed it assumed another aspect, and offered a prospect both of anchorage and landing. (Jpon this we plied in under the island. We were now visited by two canoes, which came boldly along-side of us, and several of the Indians entered the Resolution without hesitation ; which mark of confi- dence determined us to visit them if possible. After making a few trips, we found good anchorage, and come to in twenty-five fa- thoms water, at three cables length from the shore. We had scarcely anchored, when we were surrounded with Indians, some in canoes, and some swimming, several came on board, and among ttiem a chief, named Tioony, to whom Capt. Cook pre- sented a hatchet, spike-nails, and other ar. tides, with which he was highly pleased. A party of our people, in company with Tioony, went on shore, who were conducted to a little creek formed by the rocks, right abreast of the ships, where landing was very easy, and the boats secure against the surf. litr-ivre weresaluted with loud acclamations, m^% mm ■ ;'p! W := i^;^'^ ff/'^fi:-:. % Mm M ||- ^^ ■ .'ill}'! %X ii,. 4 m M mm ^^"^mmmmfiw^mm^ !•• by an imn ed the ino tiuiis, not a stick, ( They thn with cloth time befon iiig. Mar neiir the h whole bal (liately, wi to get any chief cause left, and n were then c was situat( from the se under some was the pn at anchor. the richest placed beh were seated the natives round on i bag-pipes, < played, and three young- they did wi and a few pi these young circle a sinc^i warded. Th but on the nious. Havi at oiu" own r another plan house, into w nanoes and < and a bowl o sence, of the already relat* presented to the folding of half a pint ea the only perso e/er, the bowl tves, ofwhict ^ook ; but we was never filli drink out of \i AND ROUND THE WORLD. 341 l)y an immense crowd of people, wlio shew- ed the most evident sij^ns ot pacitic inten- tions, not one of them having so much as a stick, or any weapon in their hands. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth, matting, &c. that it was some time before we could make good our land- ing. Many of them, who could not get near the boats, threw over the others' heads, wliole bales of cloth, and retired imme- diately, without either asking, or waiting to get any thing in return. At length the chief caused them to open to the right and left, and make room for us to land. We were then conducted up to his house, which was situated about three hundred yards from the sea, at the end of a fine lawn, and under some shaddock trees- In the front was the prospect of tlie sea and the shjps at anchor. Plantations abounding with the richest productions of nature, were placed behind, and on each side. We were seated on mats, laid on the floor, and the natives placed themselves in a circle round on the outside. Having with us bag-pipes, Capt. Cook ordered them to be played, and in return, the chief directed three young women to sing a song, which they did with an exceeding good grace: and a few presents being distributed among these young women, set all the rest in the circle a singing, who did not sit down unre- warded. Their songs were in no wise harsh, but on the contrary musical and harmo- nious. Having continued here some time, at our own request, we were conducted to another plantation, where the chief had a house, into which we were introduced. Ba- nanoe« and cocoa-nuts were set before us, and a bowl of liquor, prepared in our pre- sence, of the juice of ava, in the manner already related ; the latter of which was presented to each of us in cups made by the folding of green leaves, containing near half a pint each cup: but Capt. Cook was the only person, who tasted the liquor; how- ever, the bowl was soon emptied by the na- tves, of which both men and women par^ took ; but we observed that the same cup was never filled twiqe, nor did two persons drink out of it; each had a fresh cup and --■'•■--.'.. I i fresh liquor. The house we were now ('n-. tertained ui was situated at one angle of ijie. plantation, abounding with fruit and trees^ whose fragrance ditiused a pleasing odour» and the spreadinpf branches made an agree- able shade. Betore the house was an area, on which we were seated. It being now noon, we returned on board to dinner, with the chief Tioony in our company. We had on the table fresh pork, but he eat nothing, which we thought somewhat extraordniary. After dinner we again went on shore, and were received as before. Mr. Forster, with his botanical party, and some other gentle- men, took a walk into the country. Onr two Captains were conducted to the chief's house, where fruit, and some greens were set before us. Having just dined we could not eat much, but Oedidee and Oniai did honour to the desert. We now intimated a desire of seeing the country, and Tioony very readily gratified our wishes. He led us through several plantations, laid out with great judgment, and inclosed with fences made of reeds. Most of them belonged to our hospitable chief, and were all in very good order, and planted with various fruit trees. Hogs and very large fowls, the only domestic animals we saw, were running near the houses, and in the lanes that separated the plantations. Every person was very much pleased with this delightful country, and the friendly reception we met with ; and we much regretted, that the season of the year, and other circumstances, would not permit our longer stay. In the evening we returned on board, and on Saturday the 2nd, of October, the ships were crouded with people the whole day, trafficking in perfect good order. On the 3rd, early in the morn- ing, while the ships were preparing to get under sail. Captains Cook and Furneanx, accompanied by Mr. Forster, went off in the boat, to take leave of our hospitable chief. He met us at the landing-place, and had we not excused ourselves, he would have entertained us at his house. We there- fore spent half an hour with him, seated on the grass, in the midst of a vast croud of the natives, who seemed to vie with each other in doing what they thought would give n.s r- Mr ;i M immm L r fem Ma VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, pleasure. Having made the chief a present, Consisting of various articles, he was given lo understand that we were going away, at which he seemed not at all affected. He went with us into our boat, with two of his friends, intending to accompany us aboard, but when he saw the Resolution under sail, he and his companions went into a canoe, and returned on shore. It is remarkable, that on shore this friendly Indian never made the least exchange ; but now, during his stay in the boat, he bartered fish-hooks for nails, and engrossed the trade in a man- ner wholly to himself. On Sunday, October the 3rd, as soon as Capt. Cook came on board, we de])arted from Middleburgh, and made sail down t6 Amsterdam. When we were about half way between the two isles, we were met by three canoes, and the people made seve- ral attempts to come on board, but without ettect, as the rope we threw out to them broke, and we did not shorten sail. They were likewise unsuccessful in boarding the Adventure. We ran along the south-west coast of Amsterdam, at the distance of half a mile liom the shore, whereon the sea broke in a great surf. By the help of l^lasses, we saw the face of the whole island, which, in every part that came under our ol)ser\'ation, appeared covered with plantations. Along the shore we perceived the natives running in great numbers, and displaying small white flags, tlie emblems of peace, which signals we answered by hoist- ing a St. George's Ensiirn. At this time three of the natives of Middlehurg, who had continued too long on board the Ad- venture to return, quitted her, and swam to the shore, from whence we concluded the^ had no strong inclination to accompany us m our voyage. We had no sooner opened the west side of the isle, than several ca- noes, having four men in each, came boldly along-side, and when tiiey had presented us with some ava root, came on board with- out the least ceremony. Having got into Van Diemen's Road, we anchored in eigh- teen fathoms water, little more than a cable's Jengtii from the breakers ; and our coasting Mtuihor, to keep the ship from tailir»g on the rocks, lay in forty seven fathoms water. Ijy this time we were surrounded with peo|)le, and our seamen were so eager in purchasinfr their curiosities, even at the expence of clothes, that Capt, Cook found it absolutely necessary lo pronibit any farther comuieroe of this sort. The good effect of this order, was, that on the 4th, the natives brought us fowls, pigs, bananoes, and cocoa-nuts jn abundance, for which we exchanged small nails and pieces* of cloth, even old nigs would purchase pigs and fowls. A trading party was now settled, and our commanders went on shore, attended by Mr. Forster und other officers, in company with a chief named Attago, who had attached himself to Capt. Cook, the first moment of his coin- ing aboard, which Wus before the ships came to anchor. This p -rson of some jiofp presented the captain with several articles, and as a greater testimony of friends]ii|) exchanged names with him ; a cusloai, which, as we have observed, is practised nt Otaheite, and the Society Isles. We wciu received on shore with the same demon. strations of joy as at Middleburg, and the gentlemen set out into the country, except the two commanders, who distrihuted Ijresents to such of the natives as Attiigo pointed out, who were afterwards disco- vered to be of superior rank to himself; though at this time, by the attention puid to him, he appeared to be the principal per- I son. Having complained of the heat, At' tago shewed and seated us tuider llie shade of a large tree ; and tlie people, who were ordered to foru) a circle, never attempted to pass the prescribed liounds. and croud upon us, as did those of Otaheite. Alter liavins; been here some time, we hinted our desire to see the country ; whereujxm Attago iin< mediately conducted us alunir a lane that terminated in an open green, on one side ol which we saw a place ol" worship, built on a mount about eighteen feet high. It was an oblong square, incloseci by a stone parapet wall, about three feet in height ; from which the mount, covered with green turf, rose to| the building with a gradual slope. Tliei building was twenty by fourteen feet. When we had advanced within fifty yardJ some mecl which our put in his now they fhe coral ro made that them beinjf inches thick a kind of g that side wl five roads i ^ public, composed tree, of whic 'ovv palm, l)iirts of Ho AND ROUND THE WORLD. 243 if its front, every one sat down on the green. Three elderly men, whom we took for priests, betfiin a prayer, having: their faces to the bouse, which lasted about ten minutes ; and this being ended, they came and seated themselves by us. We made them presents of what we had about us, and then procee^d- ed to view the premises, to which they did not shew the least reluctance. The house ^as built in every respect like their com- mon dwellings, with posts and rafters, cover- ed mth palm thatch. The eaves came down witmn three feet of the ground, and the open space was filled up with strong matting made of palm-leaves as a wall. In tiie front, leading to the top of this, were two stone steps ; and round the house was a gravel walk : the floor also was laid with line gravel, in the centre whereof was an oblong square of blue pebbles, raised six inches higher. In one angle of the build- ing stood an image roughly carved in wood, und another lay on one side. This image WS8 turned over and over by Attago, as he would have done any other log of wood, which convinced us, that they were not con- sidered by the natives as objects of worship. VVe put several questions to Attago concern- ing this matter, but did not understand his answers ; for our readers are to be informed, that, at our first arrival, we hardly could un- derstand a word the people said. We tliought it necessary to leave an ofTering, and therefore laid down upon the platform some medals, nails, and other things, which our friend immediately took up and put in his pocket. We could not conceive how they could cut such large stones out of the coral rocks, with which the walls were made that inclosed the mount, some of them beinc: ten feet by four, a. 'id near six inches thick. The mount, which stood in a kind of grove, was open only to view on that side which fronted the green, and here five roads met, most of which appeared to be public. Among the various trees that composed the grove, we found the Etoa tree, of which are made clubs, and a sort of low palm, very common in the northern parts of Holland. This place of worship, 3 in the language of Amsterdam, is called A-fia-tou-ca. On our return to the waterside, we turnea oft' to a road leading into the country, about sixteen fieet broad, and as level as a bowU ing-n^reen, several other roads intersected it, all inclosed on each side with neat reed- fences and shaded by fruit-trees. The coun- try hereabouts is surprisingly fertile, inso- much, that we might easily have imagined ourselves in the most pleasant situation that Europe could afford. Here are various delightful walks, and not an inch of uncul* tivated ground. Nature assisted by art uq where appears to more advantage than in this fertile spot. The roads, even the high Eublic one, which was about sixteen feet road, occupied no more ispace than was absolutely necessary, nor did the bounda<. ries and fences take up above four inclies each, and in many places of these were planted useful trees and plants. On every side we saw the same appearances ; nor did change of place alter the scene. In this transporting place we met great num- bers of people goin^ to the ships loaden with fruit, and coming from them ; all of whom gave us the road, by either turning to the ri^ntor left hand, sitting down, or sfafid- ing still with their backs to the feisces, till we had passed by them. !n many of the cross roads, were A-fia-tou-cas, wliose mounts were surrounded with pallisadoes. After having walked several miles, we came to a more spacious one, near whicli was a large house, the property of an old chief, who was one of our company. Here we were regaled with fruit ; but our stay was short, and our guides having conducted us down to our boat, we returned wjth Attago to our ship to dinner. When aboard an old man was ushered into the cabin ; we placed him at table, and soon perceived he was a man of consequence, for Attago, the chief bein^ almost blind, eat with his back towards him ; and as soon as the old man returned ashore, which was after he had tasted the fish, and drank two glasses of wine, Attago took his place at the table, finished his dinner, and drank ul.so two lii 241 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, glasses of wine. After dinner we all went ashore n'^ain. We t'uiind the old chief, who, in return for his slender ineal, presented ns with a hog. Before we set out for the country, Capt. Cook went down with Al- tago to the landing-place, where he found Mr. Wales laughing at his perplexing situ- ation. The boats that Ijrought us ashore not having been able to get close in with the landing-place, Mr Wales had pulled off his shoes ami stockings to walk through the water, aiul, when on dry ground, sitting down, he put them between his legs, in order to put them on, when in an instant they were snatched away by a person be- hind him, who immediatelv mixed with the crowd. The man he could not follow bare- footed over the sharp coral rocks ; the boat was put back to the ship, all his compa- nions had made their way through the crowd ; and he was found by the captain in this forlorn condition : but the friendly Attago soon set him at liberty, by finding out the thief, and recovering the shoes and .stockings. We now began our excursion into the country. Having past the first- mentioned Afiatouca, the old chief shewed us a pool of fresh water, though he had not made the I'jast inquiry for any. It is very probable this is the bathing )lace for the king and his nobles, mentioned by Tasman. From hence we were conductec down to the shore (»f Maria IJay, or N. E. side of the Isle, where we were shewn a boat-house, in which was a large donble c;inoe not yet launched. The old chief did not fail to make us sensible it belonged fo him. Night now appmaching, Attago attended us to the boat, and we returned aboard. As to the botanizing and shooting parties, that were out wirfi us the same day, they were all civilly treated, and well entertained by the natives. The party also at the market on shore had a brisk trade, and many advan- tageous bargains. Tli^y procured plenty of bananas, yams, cocoa-nuts, pigs, and fowls, for nails and pieces of cloth. A boat from each ship was employed to bring off their cargoes, by which nieans we obtained cheaper, and with less trouble, a good guan- j tity of refreshments from those of the na tives who had no canoes to carry Iheir commodities off to the ships. On Tuesday the 6th, early in the morn- ing, the Captain's friend, Attago, brought him a hog and some fruit, for which, in re- turn he received a hatchet, a sheet, and some red cloth. The pinnace having been sent on shore to trade, as usual, soon returned, and we were informed that the natives, in many resficts, were exceeding troublesome. The day before they had stole the boat's- grappling, and at this time they were for takmg every thing out of the pinnace. It was therefore judged necessary to have on shore a guard, and accordingly the marines were sent, under the command of Lieiite* nant Edgcumbe. These were soon after fo|. lowed by the two commanders, Attago, and several of the gentlemen. On landing, the old chief presented Capt. Cook with a pig; and then . Hodges, accompanied by the two Captanis, took a walk into the country, in order to make drawings ; after which they all returned with Attago, and two other chiefs on board to dinner, one of which last had sent a hog on board the Ad- venture, some hoTH's before, for Capt. Fiir- neaux, without requesting any return ; a sin- gular instance of generosity this : but At- tago did not omit to put Capt. Cook in mind of the pig the old king gave him in the morning, for which he had in retmn, a chequed shirt, and a piece of red cloth. Uo. desired to put them on, which when doiic, he went upon deck, and shewed himself t« all his countrymen. He had done the same with the sheet the Captain gave him in the morning ; but when we went on shore in the evening the old chief took to hirnseh' every thing Attago and others had got in their possession. This day the different trading parties procined for both ships a good supply of refreshments ; the sailors therefore had leave to pjjrchase any curiosi- lies they might fancy : which opportunity they emt)rSiced with great eagerness ; indeed ■they became quite the ridicide of the na- tives from their thirst after trifles, who jeer- ingly offered them sticks and -stones^ in «xchnnf! g-jsli hoj on the e to everj found m and stol with whi On beinj left the c ofieu as 4 of him, h having ui Other dai landing-p jacket, ail sued and Wednci visited us a hog, aix more. W ed the old noon, and accompani left Capt. from this I old king, a ing. Wh« informed b greater ma come to p said, he ha believed h qiience, by fiim by all wljen tliey faces, and p nor do any Vfyon his ai iher gent leu escorted I where v,'e i\ ii ft'eeted gra' «n ideot, \\ notions, the ,v^'>on Capt '»"», he neit notice of h the tV'atiire*? alteration, ^"n to his telijgent yoi II n t AND ROUND TFIK WORLD. 246 txchnnge for other thinj?s ; and one wncr- gisli hoy took a piece of hunkaii exoreinent on the end of a stick, and otTered it for sale to every one he met. This day a felUtw found means to get into the master's cabin, and stole some books and other articles, with which he was making off in his canoe. On being pursued l)y one of our boats, he left the canoe, and took to the water; but as often as our people attempted to lay hold of him, he dived under the boat, and at last, having unshipped the rudder, got clear otf. Other daring thefts were committed at the landing-place. One man stole a seaman's jacket, and would not part with it till pur- sued and fired at. Wednesday, the 6th, our friend Attago visited us again as usual, brought with him a hog, and assisted us in purchasing many more. We went afterwards on shore, visit- ed the old chief, with whom we stayed till noon, and tl>en returned on board to dinner, accompanied by Attago, who never one day left Capt. Cook. Being about to depart from this Island, a present was made for the old king, and carried on shore in the even- ing. When the Captain landed, he was informed by some of the officers, that a far greater man than any we had yet seen, was come to pay us a visit. Mr. Pickersgill said, he had seen him in the country, and believed he was a man of great conse- 2uence, by the extraordinary respect paid iin by all ranks of people ; some of whom, vi'lien tiiey ajmroached him, fell on their faces, and put their head between their feet ; nor do any ])ass him without permission. Upon his arrival, Mr. Pickersgill and ano- ther gentleman took hold of his arms, and escorted him down to the lantling-place, where we found him seated with such an affected gravity, that we really thought him an ideot, whom, from some siij)erstitious notions, the people were ready to adore. When Capt. Cook sainted and addressed him, he neither answered, nor took the least, notice of him. And as there appeared irT the t'eatiire*! of his countenance not any alteration, the caj)tain was about to leave him to his private cogitations; but an in- telligent youth cleared up all our doubts ; and from his inf )rmation, we were now fully convinced, that what we took for a stupid fool was the princi[)al head man, or king o{ the Island. Therefore the present, intend- ed for the old chief, was presented to liim. ltc(>nsisted of a shirt, an axe, a piece of red cloth, a looking-glass, some nails, medals, and beads ; all of which were put upon, or laid down by his majesty, without his speaking one word, or turning his head either to the right or left. We departed from this living statue, and had not been long on board, before Ije sent ns a present of provisions, consisting of about twenty baskets of roasted bananas, sour bread and yams, and a roasted pig, weighing about twenty pounds. We now no longer qties- tioned the real diunity of this sullen chief When these things were brought down to the water side, Mr. Edgecumbe and his party were coming off to the vessels, and the bearers of the jjresent said it was from the Areeke, (that is king) of the Island, to the Areeke of the ship. On Thursday the 7th of October, early in the mnrning oiir two commanders accom- panied by JVfr. Forster, went ashore, to make a return t.> the Areeke of the Island for his last night's present. They soon found Attago, of whom we learnt, that his majesty's name was Ko-haghee-too-Fallan gon. After some little time he appejired with a very few attendants. IJy Atfiigo's desire we all sat down under a tree, .\m\ the king .seated himself on a rising ground about twelve yards from us- We contiiiued some miiuites facing each other, expecting Attago wotild introduce us to his niMJesty ; but observing no signs of this, the two Va\r- tains went, and having saluted the king sat down by him. They then put on him a white shirt, and laid down before him a few yards of red cloth, a brass kettle, a saw, two larges- spikes, three looking glasses, twelve niedals, and some strings of beads. All this time he behaved in the ni;iimer before related, sitting like a-statue ; his arms seemed immoveable; he spoke not one word, nor did he seem to know what we were about. When we gave him to under- stand by signs and words, that we should mmi >') br ■ if 'WISP! iti^i>^^ •16 VOVAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, soon depart from I»i"< Island, he made not the least reply ; but when wc had took leave, we perceived he conversed with At- tago, and an old woman : and in the conrse of this conversation h«' laufihed lienrtily in spite of his assumed jsfravity ; for it could not be his real disposition, seeing: he was in the prime of life, and these Islanders, like all others we had lately been acquainted wi4h, are much given to levity. We were now introduced by Attago mto another circle of respectable old people of both sexes, among whom were our friend, the aged chief, and the priest, who was gene- rally in his company. We concluded, tiiiit the juice of pepper-root had the same effect that strong liquors have on Europeans, when they drink too much of them ; tor we observed, that the reverend father could walk very well in the morning, but in the evening was generally led home by two friendly supporters. We were a little at a loss how to take leave of the old chief, hay- ing, we feared, almost exhausted all our choicest store on the king ; but having ex- amined our pockets, and Capt. Cook's trea- sury bag, which he always carried with him, we collected together a tolerable good present both for the chief and his friends. This old chief had a natural air of dignity, which the king had not. He was grave, but not sullen ; would talk at tiines in a jocular manner, and when conversing only on indifferent subjects, would endeavour to underjtand us, and be understood himself. The priest in all our visits would repeat a short prayer, which none in the company attended to, and which for our parts we did not understand. Having continued a social conversation with these friends near two hours, we bid them farewel, and repaired to our ship with Attago, and a few of his friends, who after breakfast were dismissed loaded with presents. Attago very strongly importuned us to call again at this isle on our return, and requested of the Captain, more than once, to bring him a suit of clothes like those he then had on, which was his uniform. This friendiv Islander, during our stay, was, on several occasions, very serviceable to us. He daily came on 6 board in the morniuK', soon nrier dawn, and frecpiently stayed with ns till the evening. When on board, or on shore, he performed every kind othce i'or us in his power, the expeuce for his services was trifling, and we thought him a very valuable friend. The supplies which we procured from this Island were about one hundred and fifty pigs, double that number of fowls ; as many bananas, &c. as we could findk rnem for, and, had we continued longer, we might have had more than our wants required. We were now ab^ut to depart, when, in heaving the coasting cable, it broke, by being chafed by the rocks ; by which ac- cident we lost nearly half the cable, togf^ther with the anchor, which lay in forty fathoms water, without any buoy to it ; from whence a judgment may be formed of this anchor* age. At ten o'clock P. M. we got under sail, but our decks being encumbered with fruit, fowls, &c. we kept plying under tiie land till they were cleared. Before we continue the history of this voyage, we shall here ^i\e a particular account of this Island, and its neighbouring one of Middleburgh, a description of which we doubt not will afford an agreeable entertainment to our readers, and very numerous subscribers wlio have favoured this work with a generous encouragement, equal to our most sanguine expectations and wishes. These two islands were first discovered by Capt. Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutchman, in January 1642 — 3, whicli we named Am- sterdam and Middlebiiruh. The former is called by the natives Tonga-ta-bu, and the latter Ea-oo-wee. From observations made on the spot, they are found to be situated be- tween trie latitude of 21 deg. 29inin.and2l deg. 3 inin. S. and between the l<;ngitude of 174 deg. 40 min. and 175 deg. 15. min. W. Middleburgh, the southermost isle, is about ten leagues in circumference, and from its height may be seen twelve leagues at sea. It is bounded by plantations, especially on the S. W. and N. W. sides ; but the interior parts are not go well cultivated ; yet even this neglect gives an additional beauty to the whole island ; for here we see dispersed, tbrming an agreeable variety, groves of cocoa with anil { churiii und ei The is sliai rie, tl league mg- a r the sea the ha I length 1 unfatho fore obs< damage dicationi best. ' plantati< auctions ;iiiled F short, ht tides, pi besides o sfime uia of which assortmei dnce am much the part of th and roac manner, from one We here the housei they are dimension oMier Isla to consist i They havt planted ro Wim AND ROUND THE WORLD. 24T cocoa-nut anit otlier trees, lawiif^ c1o;ttlu>d >vitli thick ((rans with plaiitutioiis, roads, ami paths in every direction, iriakin^ u cliunninff confusion, as greatly improves unii enlivens tlie prospect. The island of Tongatabn, or Amsterdam, in shaped something like an isosceles trian- f;|e, tlie jjongest legs of wlrch i»re seven eu;?iies each, and the shortest four. It lies nearlv in the direction of E. S. E. and W. jy. W. much of an equal height, but ra- ther low, being not more than eighty feet above the level of the sea. Botii this Isle, and that of Middleburgh, are guard-ed by a reef of coral rocks, on which the force of the sea is spent before it reaches the shore. Van Diemen's Road, wherein we anchored, is under the N. W. part of the Island, hav- ing- a reef of rocks without it, over which the sea breaks continually. The extent of the bank is not more than three cables 1en|j:th from the shore : without that is an uiit'uthomahle depth ; and, as we have be- fore observed, the loss of an anchor, and the damage our cables sustained, are plain in- dications that the bottom is none of the best. This island is wholly laid out in plantations, abounding with the richest pro- ductions of nature, as bread-fruit, plantains, SM^ar-cane, and a fruit like a nectarine, ;alled Fighega, and at Otaheite Ahuya ; in sliort, here are to be found most of tli^ ar- ticles, productions of the Society Islands, besides others which they have not. The saaie ujay be said of vegetables, the stock of which we increased by an additional assortment of garden seeds, &c. The pro- duce and cultivation of Middleburgh is Hindi the same as at Amsterdam, only a part of the former is cultivated. The lanes and roads are laid out in so judicious a manner, as to open a free communication from one part of the Island to the other. We here saw no towns or villages, most of the houses being situated in the plantations ; tliey are neatly constructed, but in their dimensions do not exceed those in the other Islands. The only difierence seems to consist in the disposition of the framing. They have small areas before most of them, planted round with trees, or shrubs, whose fragrancy perfumes the very air. The wholt of their fiirnittue is composed of a few wooden platters, coooa-nnt shells, and some neat wooden pillows shaped like stools or forms. Their common clothing sw^rvM them for bedding, with the addition of a mat. We saw two or three earthen vessels among them ; one in the shape of a bomb- shell, with two holes in it, opposite each other ; the others resembled pipkins, cth thi.? and their voices are very harmonious ; and they have a considerable compass on their notes. Among their musical instruments, which came under our knowledge, they have a drum, or rather an hollow log of wood, on the side of which they beat with two drum sticks, whereby is produced a doleful sound, not quite so musical as that of an empty cask. We saw one of these drums five feet and a half long, and thirty inches in girt. It had a slit in it from one end to the other, about three inches wide, by means of which it had been hol- .^owed out. They have also two musical pipes ; one a large flute made of a piece of bamboo, which they fill with breathing: through their noses : they have four stops, whereas those at Oiaheite have only two. The other instrument is composed of ten or eleven small reeds of unequal lengths, bound together side by side, as the Do/ic pipe of the ancients is said to liave been. The open ends of the reeds into which they blow with their mouths are of equal height or in a line. In this country the manner of a salutation is by joining or touching noses, and the displaying a white flag or flags, when stran- gers arrive, is a sure sign of peace. Such were displayed when we first drew near the shore ; but the people who then came on board, brought with flu ni some pepper plant, which they sent before tliein into the ship ; and a stronger sign of friendship we could not wish for. From the friendly recep- tion we exnerienced, and the unsuspicious nunner of behaviour upon our landing, we concluded, tliey are seldom molested either by foreign or domestic enemies ; neverthe- less they are not without very formidable ofiensive and defensive weapons, as bows and arrows ; also clubs qnd spears f^)rMjed of hard wood. The clubs are of various sha|)es, and from three to five feet in length. III ■■'• S:;V i*t HH * ! ^^:! ::i' iV: I lit 050 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, i* m ,- 51, Trie bows and arrows are none of the best, tlie former being very slight, and tlje latter only a slender reed pointed with hard wood. On the inside of the bow is a groove, where- in is placed the arrow. Several of their •pears have many barlw, and must be dan- gerous weapons where they take effect Another singular custom is that of putting every thing you give them to their heads, by way of thanks, as we imagined ; and %vhere things were given to young infants, the mother lifted up the child's hand to its head, so that tlii? manner of paying a compli- ment is taught them from their very inlancy. The same custom they also used in their exchanges with us. It is called by tlie na- tives fagafatie, and has, we Ix lieve, various Aigr.ifications, according as it is applied ; all however complimentary. A still more singular custom prevails among them, though not peculiar to the inhabitants of the Friendly Isles. The greater part of both sexes had lost one or both of their little fingers; and, except some young chil- dren, we found few who had both hands perfect ; but the reason of this mutilation we could not learn. They Iso burn or make incisions in their cheeks, near the cheek bone ; the reason of which was equally unknown to us. However, such i.s the goodness of the climate, that we ob- served neither sick nor lame among them ; all appeared Ijealthy, strong and vigorous. The government of this country is much like that of Otalieite, that is, in a king or prime chief (called Areeke) with otJier subor- dinate chiefs, who are lords of certain dis- tricts, perha|)ssole proprietors, to whom the people seem to pay great obedience. We also perceived a third rank, one of whom was our friend Attago, who seemed to have not a little influence over the common peo- ple. It was the opinion of Capt. Cook, that all the land on Tongatabu is private property, and that here, as at Otaheite, are a set of servants, or slaves, who have no property in land. Indeed, we cannot sup- pose every thing to be in common, in a country so richly cultivated. Few would toil if they did not expect to reap, and 2 enjoy the fruits of their labour as their own. Parties of six, eight, or ten people, would frequently bring fruit down to the lai^Jinfr place ; but we always saw one man, or woman, superintend the sale of the whole, without whose consent no exchanges comIcI be made; and the things they bartered for were always given tluui, all wliicjj plainly shews they were the owners, unj the others only their servants Though the benevolent author of nature has poured forth liberally his bouniies on the Isles : yet the high state of cultivation their lands are in, must have cost them n- defatigable pains and labour ; ()ut this is now amply rewarded by the great produce every where to be seen, and of which ;>ll partake ; for no one wants the common necessaries of life: the poor are nd others to shoot at, not very respectful this to divinity ; and yet we have seen the Portuguese, when their p:;^i^if' AND ROUND THE WORLD. 251 Wisties wore not prratified, treat their tutelar them were covered with green sod, and the saints with inisoh greater familiarity. It grass was very short, l)y being often sat upon, appeared however very plain to us, that and much trodden, which doubtless pre* tliesc Afiatoucas are miVoh frequented for vented its growth, one purpose or other ; for the areas before CHAP. IV. T/ie Resolutioji and Adventure continue their voyage from Amsterdatn ; proceed Jbr Queen Char* lolles Sound; An interview with the inhabituHts ; T^hc final separation of the ttvo ships; TraM$» aciions and incidents in Charlotte's Sound ; l^ie inhabitants discovered to be Cayinibals ; A description of the coast ; The Resolution departs from the Sound, and proceeds in search after hef consort ; Course of the Resolution in search of the supposed continent ; and the methods pursued to explore the Southern Pacific Ocean; Arrives at l^aster J stand ; Transactions there; An expedition into the inland part of the country, with an account of some gigantic statues, and description of the ivhole Island. ON Thursday, the 7th, of October, we made sail to the southward, and our route determined was to make for Queen Charlotte's Sound in New Zealand, there to take in a supply of wood and water, and then to proceed on farther discoveries to the S. and E. On the 8th, we made the Island of Pilstart, distant eitrht leagues, and bear- ing- S. W. by W half W. This was also discovered by Tasman, and lies in latitude 22 (ley:. 26 min. S. and in 17o deg. 69 min. W. longitude, distant 32 leagues from the south end of Mi«ldlebnrgh, in the direction of S. 52 i\eg;. W. Two remarkable liills rise therein of a considerable height, and Jteeuiingly disjoined from each other by a low valley. We now after a tew hours cahn, stretched with a S. W. wind to the S. E. but, on Sunday, the 10th, it veered round to the S. E. and E. S. E. upon Vtliijft we resumed our course to the S.8, W. Oil Thursday the 21 st, at five o'clock, A. M. vvj made the land of New Zealand, ex- tending froir, N. W. by N. to W. S, W. We now ^taod in .shore till we were abreast ofTable Cape and Portland Island, which ii ^vioed to it b^ a ledg« of rocks ; we were gazed at by the natives as we pas.sed : but none of them ventured to come off in their canoes. We advanced to the Black Cape on the 22nd, and now several inhabitants took courage and boarded us, among whom was a chief; he was clothed elegaiitly, and his hair was dressed in the high fashion of the country. We entertained him in the cabin, and his companions sold us some fish. These people were very fond of' nails* and the chief received them with much grea- ter eagerness than when tlie Captain gave him hogs, fowls, seeds, and roots. We ob- tained from him a promise not to kill any; and if he keeps his word, there are enough to stock the whole Island ; the present consisted of two sows, two boars, four hens, and two cocks ; we likewise gave him several useful seeds, and in- structed him in the manner of .setting tijem. These people very well remembered tlie Endeavour having been in their coast. The Adventure was now a good way to ice ward, and as we were ohlige •'"■■I I fit: Ul* i ^ii ip S'iS VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE. i |ff fiii ! 11^' ') ,>!>. p ,.",i^.^ 4 :;, 'fr t '^i f i: ■7. '!(!S: 1 nt^H to make Cape Pallise; , the northern point of Eakeinoniauwe, but we had such a liard gale for two (Jays, that drove us oft' the hind just as we were iu sight of port. Tliis was very mortifying ; hut two favourable cir- cuuistances attended it, for we were in no dauber of a lee-shore, and it was fair over head. In the evening of the twenty-fifth we endeavoured to Hud the Adventure, wliich th(! storm had separated, but without effect, the weather being' so hazy, that we could not see a mile round us. On the Iweuty-eighth we saw the Adventure about five miles to leeward, and we kept company with her till the night of the twenty-ninth, when she disappeared, nor did we see her at day-light. Charlotte Sound was the appointed place of rendezvous; and as we had separated from the Adventure, we were obliged to njake for it, otherwise Cai)t. Cook would have sought a supply of wood and water further south. We stood to the e.istward, in hopes of meeting with the Adventure. On the second of November thft morning was very clear, and we kept a sharp look-out for the Adventure ; but as we could not see lier, we judged she was g'ot into the Sound. We accordingly made tor the shore of Eakeinomauwe. In doing which we discovered an inlet, which the captain had never observed before, on the east side of Cape Teerewhitte. We anchored in twelve fathoms water, at the entrance of this inlet ; and several of the inhabitants came on board, who were extravagantly fond of nails. We ran up into Ship Cove on the third of November, where we expected to nee the Adventure, but were disappointed. Here we were obliged to uidtend the sails, which had been very much damaged in the late storms. Several people came on board, who remembered the Endeavour when on this coast, particularly an old man called Goubiah. The emi)ty casks were ordered on shore, aiul the necessary repairs both to ihem and the ship were ordered to be made. We were unsuccessful in our fishing parties, who caught no fish, but were well supplied by tlje natives with that useful article. On opening the bread casks, we found a great deal of it damaged ; that which remained good we baked over again, in order to preserve it. On Friday ,4ie 5th, one of the natives took an oppor^uriily of stealing one of the sea- men s bags of clothes, which, with some difti- culty, we recovered. This mad« our peojjje more cautious in future. We found one of the sows wliich Capt. Furneaux had put on shore, and were informed that the boar and other sow were taken to another j)art, but not killed. We were mortified very ninch when we heard that old Goubiah had kiliecl the two goats which Captain Cook put on shore, and were concerned to think that our endeavours to stock this country with useful animals were likely to be rendered fruitless, by those very people for whose benefit tliey were designed. But nature had amazingly assisted our intentions in the gardens, where every thing was in a flourishing state, except the potatoes, which were most of them dng up. We j)ut on s!:ore another boar and sow, with two cocks, and four hens. We purchased a large quantity of fish from the natives, who were very much inclined to theft ; we detected them picking our pock- ets very frequently. Several strangers came to visit «s in five canoes, they took up their quarters in a cave near us, and decamped the next morning with six of our small wa- ter casks. All the people whom we found on our arrival likewise went with them. Some of them returned in a day or two, and supplied us with fish. On Monday, the fifteentli, we made a party to the summit of one of th<- hills, in ord«r to look for the Adventure, but were disappointed, and totally at a h>ss to know what was become of her. When we re- turned, the natives were collected round our boat, to whom we nnnle some presents, and went on board. We were very vdl supidied with fish during our stay here. On the 22nd, we took one ixiar an(* three sows, together with some cocks ii\\(\ hens, into the woods, where we left them with provision sufficient for ten or twelve days, with hopes that the natives would not discover them till they had bred. Our officers having visited the dvvelling-pliMrs of several of the natives, found somu liiiin.iu bones, lately bein,'4" a yout Ins h«; the fbi The hf where before Slight n whom 1 his lion it is ill] certain bal.s, wl but froii the ih^s youth li; the nati' how niai qiiiurel. Our CI almost vv hies; an<. butic, noi quitted tj setting to course wt it /n a bo : til re in se All hope vanished, diseoverie paiiy wer Cook's cai fr any I '>n Fi the south December Loudon tu(le.>() ,h <^<-i,'- 4(} in I «f 'Ur old ^fi- We s, loose ice iliscovered «oou embai fi AND ROUND" THE WORLD. 25» ook sea- litti- ople of it on und but nuch Lilled »t on it our iseful itless, t they f.insfly where !xcept in (Ing ir and We m the lied to I' [)0ok. came their ainped II wa. ioiiiid theuu two, vijde a lills, in were know we re- round osenlR, y V cl! here. r a\\^ "iS lino theitt twelve would Our huiii.iii bones, from which the flesh appeared to be lately takn Friday, the 26th, we steered to the .south, and on Monday the 6th, of Decen^ber fimnd ourselves antipodes to our Loudon friends. We were then in S. lati- tude ol) re great j)art of the .sfa be- tween us and our track to the south ; but were obliged to steer north-ea.«ole, as it might po.s.sih|y join some land to whio!» it has been coiiH- guous since the earliest tunes. Should ihei»» bo land to the south behind thi» ice, it % ^W'% i 'J 7 7- t^-j^'t;'' 'i ^51 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, ii tmi certainly c:ni afiord no better retreit for man, beast, or l)iids, than the ice itself, with whieli it must certainly be eoveretl. As we could not go any farther to the south, we thoiiifht it adviseable to tack, and stand back to the north, beinp: at this time in the latitude 71 dey-. 10 min. S. and I0(). dej?. 54 niin. W. liai)pily tor ns we tacketl ni good time; for we had no sooner done it, than a very thick foj; came on ; which woidd have been his[ldy dangerous when we fell in with the ice. On the 1st, of Eebrnrary we were able to take in some more ice, which though it was cold work to collect, served us for present consumption when melted. Capt. Cook was now wtjl satistied that no continent was to he found in this ocean, but that which is totally inaccessible; he therefore determin- ed tt» pass the ensuing winter wit^^^n the tropic, if he met ^vith no other object, worth pursuing. It was determined to steer for the land discovered by Juan Fernandez, or. in failure of this pursuit, to search for Easter Island, or Davis's Land, which we knew very little about. The sailors and all on board acceded to these designs, and were boppy at the thoughts of getting into a war- mer climate. We. had continual gales from the 8th, to the 12(h instant, when it fell a dead calm. The weather varied every day considerably till the 25th, when Capt. Cook was persuaded that the discovory of Juan I'^ernandez, if any such was ever made, coidd be nothing but a small Island, not worth notice. On the 25th, Capt. Cook was taken so ill as to be obliged to kcej) his bed, antl recovered very slowly. It is some- thing very extraordinary, that when he could eat nothing else, he had a mind to a dog of Mr. Forster's which was killed, and he relished both the flesh and the broth made of it. I'his seems a very odd kind of fiKtd tor a jick man : and, in the opinion of many people, would create much greater sicliness than it was likely to be any means ©f removing. On the lith of March, land was seen from the mast-head, which proved to be Easter Island; and on the 13th, we came to an anchor in thirty -six fathoms water, before a the .sandy beach. One of the natives cam»> on board the ship where he staid two nightc, He measured the ieugth of the ship, aiuj called the number by the same natnes as the Otaheiteans do ; but otherwise we coiihl not understand his language. A party ol us went ashore on the 14th, and found a great number of the natives asseudjled, ujio were pacifically inclined, and seemed desir- ous to see us. We made signs for sometliin.f to eat, after we had distributed some trinkets among them ; they brought us some sugar- canes, potatoes, and plantains. We very soon found '"■^t that these gentlemen were as expert thieves as any before met witli ; we could scarce keep any thing in our pocli] ets, and it was with some ditficulty thai we could keep our hats upon our heads. Tiiese people seemed to understand the use of a musket, and to be very much afraid «tl' jt. Here were several plantations of potatms, sugar-canes, and plantains ; but otheiwise the country appeared barren and' without wood. We found a well of brackish wat(r, and saw some fowls. As the natives djj not seem unwilling to part with these arti- cles, and as we were in want of them, we determined to stay a few days, A trade was accordingly opened with the natives, and we got on board a few casks of water. A party of otficers and men were sent up the country in order to ex- amine it ; and Capt. Cook . remained en shore among the natives. An advanta- geous trade for potatoes was opened, but soon put a stop to by the (twners of tlie spot from whence they were dug. It seerns that they had stolen these potatoes ; for tliey all ran away at his approach. From this circumstaiice it is pretty evident that thty are not more strictly honest amongst them- selves than to strangers. This reconnoitring' party were followed by a crow'i ' Mi " I i ! i- t ? ' ; HI CHAP V. TVitf Ilesohition sails from Easter Island to the 3Tarquesas ; Transactions and incidents tvhile she lay in Resolution Bay, in the Island of St. Christina ; Departs from the Marquesas ; Thcae Islands described^ with an account of the inhabitants, their customs, ifc. The Resohition preparet to leave Otaheite ; Another naval review ; A description of the Island ; Her arrival at the Island of Iluaht'ne ; An expedition into the same; Canons incidents related; The ship proceed to Ulietea ; Her reception there ; Incidents during her stay ; Character of Ocdidee ; General obser- vations on the Islands. 9' anu 8 ^N Wednesday, tlie ICtli, of iNIarcli, we took our departure from Easter Isle, and steered for the Marquesas Ishuuls, in- tending to make some stay there if nothing material intervened. On the 6th, of April, we discovered an Island, when we were in latitude 9 deg. 20 min. and lonifitude 138 deg. 14 niin. we were about nine leagues distance from it. We soon discovered ano- ther, more extensive than fhe former, and presently afterwards a third and a fourth ; these were the Marquesas discovered in 1595 by Mendana. After various unsuc- cessful trials to come lo an anchor, we came at last before Mendana's port, and anchored in thirty-four fathoms water, at the entrance of the bay. Several canoes appeared, filled with natives, but it was with some difficulty they were persuaded to come along side; they were at last induced by some spike nails and a hatchet. From these people we got some fish and fruit. Great numbers of them came along-side next morning, and brought with them one pig, some bread-fruit and plantains, for which they received nails, &c. We often detected them in keeping our goods, and making no return ; which practice was not put a stop to till Capt, Cook fired a musket-ball over the head of one man, who had repeatedly served us so. We wanted to get farther into the bay, and accordingly sought after a convenient place to moor tne ship in. When Capt. Cook saw there were too many natives on board, he desired that they miglit be well looked ftfter, or they would certainly commit many thefts. Betore the Cai)tain was well got into the boat, he was told that a canoe, with some men in h^..^ were making oflTwith one 8 of the iron stanchions from the opposite gangway. The captain immediately order- ed them to fire over the canoe, hut not lo kill any body. There was such a noise on board, that his orders were not distinctly heard, and the poor thief was killed at the third shot. The rest that were in the canoe leaped overboard, but got in again just as Capt. Cook came up to them, and threw over board the stanchion. One of the men sat laughing as he laded the blood and water out of the boat, but the other looked very serious and dejected. We afterwards had reason to think, that the fa- ther of the latter had been shot. The na- tives retired with great precipitation at this unhappy accident ; but their fears were in some measure allayed by the captain's fol lowing them into the bay, and making them presents. We found fresh water ashore, which we very much wanted. One would have imagined that the fatalitv attending one poor fellow's thieving, would have discourag'- ed them from making any more attempts of the like nature ; but no sooner was our kedge anchor out, but two men came from the shore, wanting to take away the buoy, not knowing what was fastened to it. Lest they should take away the buoy, a shot was fired, which fell short of them : of this they took not the least notice ; but when another was fired, which went over their heads, they instantly let go the buoy, and returned to the shore. This last shot had a good effect; for by this they saw that they were not safe at any distance, and they were ever afterwards much terrified at the sight of the inusket. However, they still continued to practice their art of thieving : but it waj r nil AND ROUND THE WORLD. ao7 j,„|(;ec! better to put up with it, as we did not inteiul making- a long: stay here. A man who had the appearance of a chief came otl'to ns with a pi^ upon his shoulder ; lie was pre- sented with a hatchet in return, and after- wards i?reat numbers of the natives cuine nlony-side, and carried on sonic traffic. Peace beinufnow estabbshed, another party of men were sent on sliore. The natives received its crvilly, and we i?ot a snp[)Iy of water, as well as some ho^-s and fruit. On the 9th, another party went ashore, and were met by a chief oV some consequence, attended by several of the natives. Presents were made to him ; but we could not pre- vail on him to return with us to dinner. In tlie afternoon another party was made to tlie southern cove, which came to the house that belon;>ed to the man we had killed. His son inherited his substance, which consisted ofiiveorsix pi'^s; but he tied at our approach. \Ve should have been glad to have seen liim, as we wanted to convince him that we lore the nation no ill-will, though we killed his father, and to have made him some pre- $ent^; by way of a small compensation. We collecied a good many pigs and other refresh- ments tliis day, and returned on board in the evening. We also obtained several pigs from the different canoes that came along- side of us cu the lOtli, instant ; and by this lime we hat' a sufficient number to afford the crews a fresh meal. A party was made 01) this da^» which was successful in the piiicliase of several more pigs, and a large quantity of fruit. We had now a fine pros- pect of getting a supply of all manner of refreshments ; but our expectations were (Viistrated, by soniC of our crew having been een a long time at sea, it was determined to remove our quarters, and make sail for Oiaheite, hoping to fall in with .some of those Islands discovereil by the Dutch and other navigators, where our wants might be effectually relieved. We had been nineteen weeks at sea, living the LI whole tim€ upon salt provisions, and tliere-" fore could not but want some refrcslmifiits ; yet we must own, with grateful ackiiuw- ledgments to goodness supreme, that on our arrival here, it could scarcely be said we had one sick man, and but a few who had the least complaint. This Capt. Cook attri- buted to the number of antiscorbutic arti- cles on board, and to the great attention of the surgeon, who was very careful to npidy them in time. On Monday, the Uth, at three o'clock, we weighed from St. Christina, and .stood over for La Dominica, and tlie night was spent in plying between the two Isfes. On the 12tli, we steered to the S. and at five P. M. Resolution Bay bore E. N. E. half E. distant five leagues, and the Island of Magdalena about nine leagues, which was the only view we had of it. But we shall now in our narrative return to the Marquesas. These are five in num- ber, namely, La Magdalena, St. Pedro, La Dominica, Santa Christina, and what we named Hood's Island, which is the nor- thernmost, in latitude 9 deg. 26 min. S. Its breadth is uneciual, and it is about six- teen leagues in circumference. The sur- face is full of rugged hills rising in ridges, which are disjoined by deep valleys clothed with wood, as are the sides of some of the hills : the aspect is, however, barren ; yet it is nevertheless inhabited. St. Pedro is about three leagues in circuit, and lies .south four leagues and a half from the east end oi La Dominica. Christina lies under the same parellel, four leagues more to the west. 1'his Isle is nine miles in length, and about twenty one in circumference. These Islands occupy one degree in latitude, and nearly half a degree in longitude, namely, from 138 de^. 47 min. to 139 deg. 13. min. W. which is the longitude of the west end of Dominica. The port of Madre de Dios, which was named Resolution Bay, is situated not fai from the middle of the west side of St. Christina, under the highest land in the Island. The .south point of the bay is a steep rock, terminating in a peaked hill. The north point is not so high, and rises in a more gentle slope. In the bay are t¥{'o I i\ '(. II ■»'t 't:. 1 ;• I *j: ■mm-^ 'm IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 12.8 lii ^ 1^ ■ 2.2 IIS us ■a 140 I i 2.0 |i.25||U,,.6 < 6" ► 7] V Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WtST VAlf' SaeiT WnSTER.N.V. )>*$S0 (716) •72-4S03 , jecture this was not a production of their Island ; indeed, they saw no fruit but cocoa- nuts, of which they could get by barter, only two dozen. When the master re- turned from sounding in the creek, he reported that there was no passage from thence into the lake ; and that the creek, at its entrance, was fifty fathoms wide, and thirty deep ; farther up thirty wide, and twelve deep ; that the bottom was rocky, and the sides bounded by coral rocks. We were not inclined to run the ship into such a place, and therefore, after having formed some judgment of the natives, we prepared to pro* ceed on new discoveries. The natives call this Island Tiookea, which was discovered and visited by Com* modore Byron. It is of an oval form, about thirty nrifes in circumference, and lies in 14 deg. 27 min. 30. sec. S. latitude, and in 144 deg. 56 min. W. longitude. They, and perhaps all the low Islands, are of a much darker colour than those of the higher ones, and seem more savage in their na- ture. These low Islands are not so fertile as some others ; the inhabitants are much exposed to the sun; they depend upon the sea for their support, by which means they are darker in colour, and more robust ; yet there is do doubt of their beinij of-the same 260 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, nation. A fish is an emblem of their pro- fession, and a figure of one was marked on the bodies of'th.- men, who in general are well made, stout, and fierce. On Monday, the 18th, we saw $uch ano- ther Island as that we had left, to the west- ward, which we.feached by eight o'clock A. M. We ranged the S. E. side at one mile distant from the shore. It lies S. W. by W, two leagues from the west end of , Tiookea, in 14 deg. 37 min. S. latitude, and in';j|45 deg. 10. iiiin. W. longitude. These we apprel^i^nded to be the same, to which Commodore 'E(yron gave the name of George's Islands. We left them on the 19th, and at seven o'clock A. M. discovered another of these halfoyerflowed Islands, which are so common in these southern latitudes. In general they are surrounded with an unfathomable sea, and their interior Earts are covered with lakes, which would e excellent harbours, were they not shut up from the access of shippinp^, which, according to the report of the natives, is the ease with most of them. Of the great num- jKer we ranged, not a passage was to be dis- covered into one of them. We were told, that they abound with fish, particularly turtle, on which the natives subsist, and sometimes exchange with the inhabitants of the higher Islands for cloth, &c. This Island, (by which, while in this part of the ocean, we would be understood to mean a number of little Isles, or Islots, connected together into one by a reef of coral rocks) is about five leagues long, and three broad, and is in 15 de^. 26 min. S. latitude, and in 146 deg. 20 mm- longitude. Near the south end we discovered from the mast head, distant four leagues, another of these low Isles ; soon after a third, bearing S. W. by S. It ex- tends W. N. W. and E. S. E. in which direction its length is twenty-one miles, but its breadth not more than six. It appears, in every respect, like the rest, only it has fewer Islots, and less firm land on the reef which surround the lake. While ranging the north coast, we saw people, huts, canoes, and what appeared to be stages for drying offish. The natives were armed with the A:\me weapons, and seemed to be the same 4 sort, as those in the Island of Tiookea. Approaching now the west end we suvv a fourth Island, bearing N. N. E. It lies sjy; leagues west from the first. These i'our clusters we named Palliser's Isles, in Ikv nour of Sir Hugh Palliser, comptroller of the navy. Ori Wednesday the 20th, at day-breal*. hauling round the west end of the tliird island^ we found a great swe^i njlling in from the S. by which we Knew that we were clear of these low Lsknds; and being not within sight of land, 've made the best of our way for Otaheite having a strong fale at E. attended with showers of rain. t is here necessary to take notice, that tjijs part of the ocean, from the latitude 20 deg. down to 12 deg. and from the meridian oj 138 deg. to 150 deg. W. is so Sirewed with low Isles, that a navigator cannot proceed with too much circumspection ; but wliether these Islej be any of those discovered, and laid down in the charts of the Dutch naviga- tors, cannot be determined with any degree of certainty ; especially when we consider, that their discoveries are not handed down to us with sufiicient accuracy. Thursday, the 1 1 th, we made the high land of Otaheite ■ by sun-set was in with Point Venus, and the next morning, at eight o'clock anchored in Matavai Bay in seven fathoms water. Qnr arrival was no sooner known to the natives, than they paid us a visit, expressed the most lively congratulations, and supplied ns with fish and fruit sufficient for the whole crew. Our first business was to erect tents for the reception of such of our people as were re- quired on shore. Sick we had none, for the refreshments we got at the Marquesas, had been the means of removing every com- plaint of the scorbutic kind, and of preserv- mg the whole crew in good health. We also sent ashore Mr. Wales*s instruments; our chief reason for putting into this place being to afi^ord him an opportunity to ascer, tain the error of the watch by the known longitude, and to determine precisely its rate of going. On Sunday, the f/4th, Otoo and other chiefs, with a train of attendants, brought us t'^R large hogs, besides fruit, which made their visi king's cc and kno^ to keep met him whole of hoard, wh peared bi{ Next day thiuider, 1 a^ain to s( ther prese of refresh we had cc some red f. valuables other thing ing the'n i our stock i without tin cult to havi sary refresi] island, we Mr, Wales vations for 1 and suppo.< better succ« we were he already met we bad mad Oparree, coi fliese two pi iiig, a large i every kind houses, wh< themselves i several hogs other signs o these favours to make a lot repair the sh saoly necess; casks and sai ordered to be overhauled. On Tuesdj comnanied b gentlemen, w >too by npp saw a n urn be uiit were muc AND ROUND THE WORLD. 261 their visit exceedingly agreeable. As the king's coming had been announced to us, anil knowing how much it was our interest to keep titis chief our friend, Capt. Cook met him at the tents and conducted the whole of this retinue, with himseif, on board, where they staid to dinner, and ap- K eared highly pleased with their reception. [ext day, notwithstanding we had much thunder, lightning, and rain, the king came a?ain to see us, and brought with him ano- ther present, consisting of a large quantity of refreshments. When at Amsterdam, we had collected, among other curiosities, some red parrot's feathers. These precious valuables procured us hogs, fruit, and every olher thing he Island afforded. Our hav- ing the>n was a fortunate circumstance ; for our stock in trade being greatly exhausted, without thesf we should have found it ditti- cult to have supplied the ship with neces- sary refreshments. When we put into this island, we intended to stay no longer than Mr, Wales had made the necessary obser- vations for the purposes already mentioned ; and supposing we should meet with no better success than we did the last time we were here. But the reception we had already met with, and the few excursions we had made to the plains of Matavai and Oparree, convinced us of our error ; for at these two places we found built, and build- ing, a large number of canoes and houses of every kifnd : people living in spacious houses, who had not a place to shelter themselves in, eight months before ; also several hogs in every house, with many other signs of a rising state. On account of these favourable circumstances, we resolved to make a longer sta^ at this Island, and to repair the ship, which was now indispen- sably necessary. Accordingly the empty casks and sails were got ashore, the ship was ordered to be caulked, and the rigging to be overhauled. On Tuesday, the 26th, Capt. Cook ac- companied by some of the officers and ffentiemen, went down to Oparree, to visit 0(00 by appointment. When arrived, we saw a number of large canoes in motion, l)ut were much surprised at perceiving more than three hundred ranged' zh-^ng shons, all completely equipped and manned ; besideji a vast number of armed men upon the shore. We landed in the midst of them, and were received by a vast multitude, some under arras, and some not. The cry of the former was Tiyono Towha, and of the latter was Tivo ,no Otoo. Towha, we afterwards learnt, was admiral, or commander of the fleet. Upon our landing we were met by a chief, named Tee, uncle to the king, of whom we inquired for Otoo. Soon after we were met by Towha, who received us in a friendly manner. He took Capt. Cook by the one hand, and Tee by the other, and dragged him, as it were, through the crowd that was divided into two parties, both of which proclaimed themseWes his friends, by crying out Tiyo noTootee. One party wanted him togo to Otoo, and the other to remain with Towha. When come to the usual place of audience. Tee left us to go and bring the king. Towha insisted on the captain's going with him, but 'he would not consent.. Whea Tee peturned, he took hold of his hand in order to con- duct him to the king. Towha was unwil- ling he should sit down, and desired him to go with him ; but this chief being a stranger, he refused to comply. Tee was very desirous of conducting the captain to the king ; Towha opposed, and he was obliged to desire Tee to desist, and to. leave him to the admiral and his party, who con- ducted him down to the neet. Here we found two lines of armed meo drawn up before the admiral's vessel, in order to keep off the crowd, that we might go on board ; and when the captain made an excuse, a man squatted down,, and offered to carry him, but he would not go. At this time Towha quitted us, without our set. .iff which way he went, nor would any one inform us. We were now jostled about in the crowd. We saw Tee, and inquiring of him for the, king, he told us he was gone into the coun- try of Mataou, and he advised us to repair to the boat, which we accordingly did, as soon as we could get collected tegetlier. When in our boat we took our time to reconnoitre the grand fleet. We told £62 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE. nn hundred and sixty large doable oa- noes, equipped, maaned, and armed, but we believe they had not their full com- plement of rowers. The chiefs and all those on the 6ghtin^ stages, were habited in cloth, turbans, breast plates, and hehnets. Some of the latter sfncmed much to incum-" ber the wearer, lie this as it may, the whole of their dress added a grandeur to the prospect, and they were so complaisant as to shew themselvts to the best advantage. Their vessels were full dressed with flags, streamers, &c. so that the whole fleet made such a noble appearance, as we had never before seen in this sea, and what no one could have expected. Their instruments of war were duos, spears, and stones. The vessels were ranged close along side of each other, having their heads to the shore, and their sterns to the sea. The admiral's ves- sel was nearlv in the centre. We counted, exclusive of the vessels of war, an hundred and seventy sail of smaller double canoes, all rigged with mast and sail, which the war canoes had not. These we judged were designed for transports, victuallers, &c. for in the war canoes, were no sorts of provi- sions whatever. We conjectured that in these three hundred and thirty vessels there were no less than seven thousand seven hundred and sixty men, a number incredi- ble, especially as we were told they all be- longed to the districts of Attahourou and Ahopatea. Most of the gentlemen, by their calculations, thought the number of men belonging to the war canoes exceeded this, allowing to each war canoe forty men, and to each of the small canoes eight. Having viewed this fleet, it was our intention to have gone on board, conid we have seen the Admiral. We inquired for him, but to no purpose. At last Tee came, by whom we wfire informed, that Otoo was gone to Mata- vai. This intelligence gave rise to new conjectures. When we got to Matavai, our friends told us, that this fleet was part of the armament intended to go against Eimeo, whose chief had thrown off the yoke of Ota- beite. We were still at a loss to account for the flight of Otoo from Oparree, for we Were informed he neither was nor bad been at Matavai. We therefore went thither again in the aJFternoon, where we found him, and learnt, that the reason of his abscond- ing in the morning was, because some of his people had stole some of the Captain's clothes which were washing at the tents, and he feared restitution would be demand- ed. He repeatedly asked Capt. Cook if he was not angry, nor could he be easy till as- sured, that the pilferers might keep the stolen things. Towha also was alarmed, thinking that Capt. Cook was displeased, and jealous of seeing such a force so near us, without knowing its destination. It happened unluckily that Oedidee was not with us in the morning ; for Tee, who was the only man we could depend on, served rather to increase our perplexity. Thus by mutual misunderstanding, we lost a favoar- able opportunity of scrutinizing the naval force of this Isle, and making ourselves bet- ter acquainted with its manoeuvres. It was commanded by an intelligent and brave chief, who was disposed to have satisfied us in all questions we had thought proper to ask ; and from the nature of the objects, which were before us, we could not well' have misunderstood each other. All mis- takes being now rectified, and presents having passed between Otoo and Capt. Cook, we took leave and returned oii board. On Wednesday, t!ie27th, in the morniny, lowha sent us, by two of his servants, two large hogs, and some fruit. The bearers of this present had orders not to receive any thing in return, nor would they when on^ered them. Some of our gentlemen went with the Captain in his boat down to Oparree, where we found Towha, and the king ; after a short visit, we broueht them both on board, together with 'Hirevatoo, the king's younger brother. When we drew near the ship, the admiral, who had never seen one before, expressed strong signs of surprize, and when on board, he was shewed, and beheld ev^ry part of it with great attention. Wi.-i- Towha re- tired after dinner, he put a iioo: on board without our knowledge, or waiting for a return ; and soon after Otoo and his attend. ants depart< between tJit we could no Towha muc should do tb fore frankly not his frien< chiefs reques rabou, notwi ture at tiiis and they Ivm forces were i reason of thii out: perhaps ing that king, own, as it wsu as Capt. Co( meat, we het Our endeavoi we believe, \ parties ; for n< 28th, Wahea- a present of a a few red featlj sent him. On in?, Otoo, I'oy paid us a visit, onl^ provisioi choice curiositi other returns, v pleased, the Ct the civilities we miral Towha. notice, that tli, the natives was steal a cask froi pemg cauffht ii board, and we i the other chie situation, andC his behalf, req? Jies, that he m he was told by people were pm committed again 'twas but justice W'hich he was de exemplary mann Jjown, he, Otoo ineman, in con Resolution, was AND ROUND THE WORLD. 2G5 ants departed also. There was a jealousy between these two chiefs, on what account we could not leara, nevertheless Otoo paid Towha much respect, and was desirous we should do the same. Otoo had the day be- fore frankly declared, that the admiral was not his friend. When on board, both these chiefs requested our assistance against Tia- rabou, notwithstanding there was no rup- ture at tiiis time between the two states, and they had informed us, that their joint forces were intended against Eimeo. The reason of this duplicity we could not find out : perhaps they were desirous of annex- ing that kingdom, by our alliance, to their own, as it was formerly : be that as it may, as Capt. Cook gave them no encourage- ment, we heard no more on this subject. Our endeavours to maintain a neutrality, we believe, were well received by both parties ; for next day, being Thursday, the §8tli, Wahea-toua, king of Tiarabou sent us a present of a hog, for which he requested a few red feathers, which were accordingly sent him. On the 29th, early in the morn- ing, Otoo, Towha, and several chiefs, again paid us a visit, and brought with them not only provisions, but some of the most choice curiosities of the Island, and among other returns, with which they seemed well pleased, the Captain didnottorget to repay the civilities we had received from the ad- miral Towha. We must not omit taking notice, that the preceding evening, one of the natives was detected in an attempt to steal a cask from the watering place, and being caught in the act, Jie was sent on board, ana we put him in irons. Otoo and the other chiefs saw the culprit in this situation, and Otoo earnestly interceded in his behalf, requestinff with many entrea- ties, that he might be set at liberty ; but lie was told by Capt. Cook, that as our people were punished for the least offence committed a^inst iLhe natives of Otaheite, it was but justice to punish this man also, which he was determined to see done in an exemplary manner ; especially as it was well known, he, Otoo, would not do it himself. The man, in consequence of the Captain's Resolution, was conducted ashore ^ the 7 tents, where a guard was ordered out under arms, and the otlender tied up to a ])ost ; Ofoo, his sister, and many of the natives being spectators. Otoo and his sister h< g- ged hard for the man ; with whom the Cap- tain expostulated, telling Otoo, how nujnst it was in his peo|>le to steal from us who were their friends, and who never took any thinar from them without giving certain articles, which he enumerated, in exchange. The Captain laboured also to convince Otoo, that the punishment he was about to inflict on this man might prove the means of saving the lives of others of his subjects ; for if they continued in such kind of criminal practices, some would cer- tainly, one time or another, be shot dead. We believe he pretty well understood our commander, and seemed satisfied, only he desired the criminal might not be Mattee- rou, (or killed.) The concourse of people was by this time very peat. The Captain therefore drew a line tor them at a proper distance, and then, in the presence ot them all, ordered the fellow two dozen of lashes with a cat-o-nine-tails. This chastisement he received with great finnness, and was then set at liberty. Upon this the natives were going way, apparently not much pleasedf: which Towha perceiving, who all the time had remained silent, though very attentive to every thing going on, he step- ped forward, and harangued them for near half an hour, in short sentences. We un- derstood little of his speech, but from what we could gather, it was a recapitulation of, Capt. Cook's : he mentioned several advan- tages they had received from our people ; and having reprimanded them for tlieir present conduct, he exhorted them to adopt and pursue a 'different one for the future. His action was remarkably graceful, and the profound attention of his audience, proved him to be a masterly speaker. Otoo said not one word. When TuMha had concluded his harangue, the marines were oi^dered to go through their exercise. They fired in vollies witli ball, and being very quick in charging, and in their ma-> noeuvres, is scarcely, possible to describe the astonishment of the natives during the 264 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, whole time, particularly the amazement of those to w hom this sight was quite a novelty. The chiefs with all their retinue, now took leave, we are apt to think not less frighten- ed than pleased at what they had seen. In the evening Mr. Forster and his party re- turned from an excursion they had made to the mountains, where they had spent tlie night. Mr. Forster collected some new plants, and found others which grew in Kew Zealand, He saw the Island of Hua- heine, situated forty leagues to the west- ward ; whereby a judgment may be formed of the height of th^ mountains of Otaheite. On Saturday the 30th, we saw ten war canoes go through part of their paddUng exercise. They were properly equipped for war, and in landing we observed, tiiat the moment the canoe touched the ground, all the warriors leaped out, and with the assistance of a few pieople on shore, dragged the canoe on dry land to its proper place ; which done, every one walked off with his paddle, &c. Such was their expedition, that in five minutes time after putting ashore, no one could tell that any thing of the kind had been going forward. The warriors on the stage encouraged the rowersf to exert themselves, and we observed some youths in the curved stern elevated above the rest, with white wands in their hands, placed there perhaps to look out and give notice of what they saw. The king's bro- ther Tarevatoo, knowing that Mr. Hodges made drawings of every thing curious, inti- mated of his own accord, that he might be sent for ; and thus an opportunity was un- expectedly afforded our , draughtsman, to collect materials for a picture of the Ota- heite fleet, as it appeared when assembled at Oparree. Being present when the war- riors undressed, we could scarcely conceive how it was possible for them to stand under the quantity of cloth with which they were clad, in time of action. Many rounds of this composed a kind of turban or cap> which, in the day of battle, might prevent a broken head, and some by way of orna- ment, had fixed to these caps dried branches of small shrubs, interwoven with white feathers, 8 On Sunday the 1st, of May, several chiefs supplied us with a large quantity of pr(C visions; and the day following our friend Towha sent us a present of a hog, and a boat loaded with various sorts of fruit and roots. We received also another present from Otoo, brought by Tarevatoo. On tlie drd, upon examining into the condition ot oar povisions, we found our biscuit mucli decayed, and that the airing *ve had given it at New Zealand was not of the service we expected : we therefore were now obliged to have it on shore, where it underwent another airing and picking, in doiiig which we found a great part thereof wholly rotten and unfit for use. We attributed this decay of our bread to the ice we frequently took in, which made the hold damp and cold, which, when to the north, was succeeded by a contrary extreme of intense heat ; but whatever was the real cause of our loss, it put us to a scanty allowance of this valu- able article, and we had bad bread to eat besides. On Thursday the dtli, in the afternoon, the botanists made another ex<. cursion up the country, to the mountains ; they returned the evening of the next day, and in their way made some new disco- veries. On Saturday the 7th, in the morn- ing, we found Otoo at the tents, of whom the captain asked leave to cut down some trees for fuel. He took him to some grow- ing near the sea shore, the better to make him comprehend what sort he wanted ; and he seemed much pleased when he under- stood, that no trees should be cut down that bore any kind of fruit. This assurance from us he repeated several times aloud to the people about us. In the afternoon we were honoured, when on board, with a visit from the whole royal family, consist- ing of Otoo, his father, brother, and two sisters ; but this was properl;^ her father's visit, who brought the captain a complete mourning dress, a present we much valued ; for which he had in return whatever he desired, which was not a little ; and to the rest of the comnany were presented red feathers. The wliole were then conducted ashore in the captain's boat. Otoo and bis friends were so well pleased with the reception »ve were gr as many t we pleasec On Sund tions with the neglige tents, who he having s received an from Tee, know that i alarmed tin great appre We therefor and when whole trans; manded the 6ed at our vatoo slipt fr hesides Tee went immedi the way end the people. tance fioni th Oil a sudden turning, sayii inountains, i "ifonn him a question, been asked '^ives. The i;o purpose to itc's advice, "IIS Oedidee ^0 let him knc seeing the ca what was in I musket. Ash, ?' Oedidee, w« '"gr round Poi one belonging i theft, It was ^"r which pwil another ordere canoes was ahet •n/king for the \her, and fo Whom we kne\ S^ojng aboard th( **P^*W. and II t a a a AhD ROUND THE WOULD. ^Oft reception they met with, that, at parting, vve were granted tlje liberty of cutting down us many trees as we wanted, and what sort we pleased. On Sunday the 8th, our friendly connec- tions with the natives were interrupted by the negligence of one of our centinels at the tents, who had his musket carried away, he havi ng slept or quitted his post. We had received an imperfect account of this affair from Tee, but we understood enough to know that something had happened, which alarmed the kin^, who Tee said, was mider great apprehensions of being niatteeroued. We therefore lost no time in going ashore ; and when landed were informed of the whole transaction by the servant who com- manded the party. Most of the natives had fled at our approaching the tents. Tarc- vatoo slipt from is in a moment, and a few besides Tee had courage to remain. We went immediately in search of Otoo, and in tile way endeavoured to allay the fears of the |)eople. Having advanced some dis- tance from the shore into the country. Tee on a sudden stopped, and advised our re- turning, saying, he would proceed to the mountains, whither Otoo had retired, and inform him that we were still his friends ; a question, and if we were angry, that had been asked a number of times by the na- tives. The captain now thought it was to i;o j>urpose to go farther, we therefore took Tec's advice, and returned aboard. After this Oedidee was dispatched to the king, to let him know his fears were groundless, seeing the captain required of him only what was in his power, the return of the mnsket A short time after the departure of Oedidee, we saw six large canoes com- ing round Point Venus. Suspecting that one belonging to these had committed the theft, it was resolved to intercept them, for which purpose a boat was put off, and another ordered to follow. One of the canoes was ahead of the rest, and seemingly making for the ship. We put along-side of her, and found two or three women whom we knew. They said, they were going aboard the ship with a present to the captaijo, and that the other canoes were Mm laden with fruit, hogs, &c. Satisfied with this intelligence, the captain recalled liis orders for intercepting them, thinking they also, as well as this one, were bound for the ship. We therefore left this single canoe within a few yards of it, and proceeded for the shore to speak with Otoo ; but upon landing we found he had not been there. Looking behind us we saw all the canoes, the one we had left near the ship not ex- cepted, making off in the greatest haste. Vexed at being thus deceived, we resolved to pursue them, and as we passed the ship, Capt. Cook gave orders to send out ano- ther boat for the same purpose. We over- took and brought five out of the six along- side, but the one by which we were out- nitted got clear off. This, in which were only a few women, had actually amused us with false stories, while the other, in which were most of their effects, were to have made their escape. In one of the prizes was a friend ot Mr. Forster's, who had hitherto called himself an Earee, also three women, his wife, daughter, and the mother of the late Toutaha. This chief we would have sent to Otoo ; but he made many excuses, saying, he was of a rank too low for such an honourable embassy ; tliat he was no Earee, but a Manahouna ; that an Earee ought to be sent to s|)eak to an Earee : and that as there were none of this high rank but Otoo and the captain, it would be innch more proper for the captain to go. At this time Tee and Oedidee came on board, and assured us, that the man who had stole the musket was from Tiarabou ; and that we might credit their declaration, they desired us to send a boat to Waheatoiia, the king of Tiarabou, offering to go themselves in her, and recover the musket. This story, though not altogether satisfactory, carried with it an air of probability ; and thinking it better to drop the affair altogether, the captain suflTered Mr. Forster's friend to de- Cart with his two canoes. The other three elonged to Maritata, a Tiarabou chief, on. which account it was determined to detain them ; but as Tee and Oedidee both assured us, that Maritata and his people were inno- cent, they were permitted to go off with their 266 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, canoes also ; and the captain desired Tee tu tell Otoo, that he should give himself no farther concern about the musket, being satisfied none of his people had committed the theft. We had now given it up, con- cluding it to be irrecoverably lost, but in the dusk of the eveninp: it was brought to the tents, together with other things we had not missed, by three men, who, as well as some other people present, atiirmed, that it was by one belonging to Maritata, by whom the things hadijeen stolen ; whence we concluded Ijotli Tee and Oedidee had intentionally deceived us. Every one pre- sent at the restoration oftho thiiisjs, and even they who came afterwards, claimed a reward, all pretending to hsne had some hand in recovering theui. Nuno iiarticu- larly, a man of some note, and with whom we were acquainted when here in 176i>, played his part in this farce exceeding well. He came with the most savage fury imagi- nable expressed in his countenance and gestures ; and having a large club in his hand, he laid it about him t violently, in order to convince us, ho\ alone, and to make us sensible in what i»,.,nner he had killed the thief;, when at we all knew that he had and not out of his house the whole time, which shews that human nature, respect- ing her original passions and powers, are the same in every clime, where the same instincts, the same jierceptive faculties and the same self love universally prevail. On Monday the 9th, Tee came again abroad to inform us, that Otoo was at Oparree, and requested of the Captain to send a person, to let him know if he was still his friend. He was asked why he had not done this himself, as he was desir- ed ; lie made a trifling excuse, but we thought he had not seen Otoo. As the natives brought not any thing to market, and a stop was consequently put to our trade with them it was judged time ill spent to send any more fruitless messages ; a party therefore set out, with Tee in our company, and ):iviiile had stolen the musket, and, added the Captain, " If I had them in my power, I would destroy them, or any other belon^I ing- to the district of Tiarabou." We knew this declaration would please them, from the natural aversion the one kingdom has to the other ; and it was enfoiced by pre- sents, which we believe were the strongest urguijients in favour of a reconciliation: for after these weighty reasons, things were soon restored to their former state, by Otoo's promising, on the word of a king, that we should be supplied next day with provi- sions and fruit as usual. Peace and amity being now once more established, we ac- companied him to his proper residence at Oparree, where he obliged us with a view of some of his dock-yards, (for so they may well be called) where we saw several larije canoes, some building, and others lately built, two of which were the largest we had any where seen. Having fully cratN tied our curiosity, we repaired^ on board with Tee in our company, who after lie had dined with us, went to acquaint Huppi, the king's father that all differences >vere brought to a happy conclusion. But we had reason to think this old chief was not satisfied with the terms of the accommoda- tion ; for all the women, and these not a few, were sent for out of the ship, and the next morning, no supplies whatever were brought, and we were obliged for the pre- sent to be contented with some fruit sent us by our friends from Oparree. But in the afternoon, Otoo himself came to the tents with a large supply ; and presently aft^r more fruit was brought us tlian w« knew whstt to rk. and fish with which we were supplied at this Isle, had spoiled our palates for sucb rank food. We were accompanied on board by the king, and Tee, his prime mi- nister, who after dinner took an. affectionate „...., farewel. Otoo had importuned us the bited the various metlifxls of fighting with whole day, and most earnestly requested of turprisifig agility ; parrying oft the blows us, that we would return to Otaheite,. and pushes with great alertness and dexte- When about to depart, he desired of tha ntv. Their arms are clubs and spears. In Captain to permit a youth, whom he took using the club, all blows aimed at the legs, by the hand, to go in the ship to Amster- were evaded by leaping over it, and those dam, in order to collect for hini red feathers, designed tor the head, by couching a little. The youth was very desirous of going, but and leaping on one side. The spear, which as lit could not return, the Captain, with is used at times as a dart, was parried, by the vie>v of satisfving Otoo, promised him, fixing tiie point of a spear in the ground that if any ship should be sent hither from right before them, holding it in an inclined Britain, the important article of red feathers position, more or less elevated, according as should not be torgotten. The Captain, we they saw to what part of the body their believe, was disposed to have obliged the antagonist intended to make a push, or to king ; but it is to be remembered, we had throw his dart at ; and by moving the hand resolved to carry no one from the Isles (ex- alitti 8 to the right or left, either the one or cept Oedidee, if he chose to go) ond the the other was tur.ied oft* with great ease. Captain had just refused Mr. Forster the These combatants had no superfluous dress liberty of taking a boy with him, for rea- upon them. An unnecessary piece of cloth sons already mentioned. But if curiosity or two which they had on when they began excited a desire in the youth of Otaheite to^ the combat, were presently torn oft' by some go with us, the treatment we had met with of the spectators, and given to our gentle* at this place had induced one of our gun- men. This review being over, the fleet de- ner's mates to remain at it. To this end he parted without any order, as fast as they had formed a plan, which he knew was not could be got a-float ; and Otoo conducted to be executecl with success while we lay in us to one of his dock-yards, where the two the bay ; and no sooner were we out, the hrge pahies, or canoes, were building, each sails set, and the boats out, than he took of which was an hundred and eight feet the opportunity, being a good swimmer, to long. They were designed to form one joint slip overboard. He was discovered before double canoe, and were almost ready for he had ^ot <:lear of the ship, and a boat launching. The king begged of the captain being hoisted out, presently returned with a grapnling and rope, to which he added an the runaway. About miJway between us English jack and pendant, and desired the and the shore, a canoe was observed coming' Paliie might be called the Britania. This after us, intended withouf: doubt ta take be readily consented to, and she was imme- (liately so named. When we came to the^ boat, we found in it a hog, and a turtle of about sixty pounds weight : this had been pat in privately by Otoo's order, that the diiefs about him might not be oflended by their being deprived of an entertain- ment lented him up ; for when the people in her saw our boat, they stood oflTat a greater distance. This we found was a preconcerted plan be- tween the man and some of the natives, with which Otoo was acquainted, and had encouraged. The gunners's mate was an Irishman by birth, and we had picked him The king would likewise have pre- up at Batavia, in our first voyage. He had to us a large shark they had pri- neither friends, nor connexions, to confine mh «9Der in a creek (some of bis fins being cut off 5 him to any particular part of the world. 270 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, wliere then could he be so bappy as at one of these Isles ? Here he might enj.y in ease and plenty, not only the necessaries, but the luxuries of life, which leads us, be- fore we leave this celebrated Island of> Ota- iieite, to give some account of its present state, especially as it differs much from what it was even eight months «^o ; imd in order to ^ive our subscribers, and numerous rea- ders a more distant idea of its situation, ^reneral figure, extent, and the character of its inhabitants, we must beg of them to indulge us with the liberty of a recapitulation of several things, which have already ap- peared in the detached parts of this work ; so that the whole may be bronghl into one view, and its distinct heads ranged in their proper order. We have already mentioned the improvements we found in the plains of Oparree and Matavia. The same was observed in every other part that came, under our observation. It seemed to us almost incredible, that so many large canoes and houses could be built in so short a space as ei«2:lit months ; but the iron tools which they had got from the English, and other nations, who have lately touched at the Island, no doubt, had accelerated the work, ajid of hands they cannot be in want. The great increase in the number of their hogs no less excited our admiration ; though, probably, they were not so scarce when we were here before, as we then imagined ; as, not choosing to part with any, they might have conveyed them out of sight. The situation of this isle is perhaps the besl in the world, being exposed to none of those vicissitudes of heat and cold, which tue observed to have so sensible an effect on the health and spirits of those who live in remoter regions. Its exact position is from latitude 17 deg. 28 min. to th«it of 17 nature, if We may be allowed fo call them so, have their use, in prompting men to in- dustry and art, to supply their wants. The figure of the largest |)eninsuih, is nearly circular, being from N. to S. about twenty miles, and from E. to W. about the same. The whole is surrounded with a reef of rocks. The lesser peninsula is rather of an oval form, and from the neck of land on the N. W. side, to the little Isle of Otooareitte on the S. E. is about twelve miles ; but from the mouth of the river Omatea on the south, to that of Owahe on the north, not more than eight. The circumference of the largest peninsula is about sixty uiilos, of the smallest about twent.v four ; but in sailing round both, the line will be extended to nearly ninety. For a particular account of the produce of the Island we are indebted no doubt to the indefatigable industry of Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander; in whose catalogue are the following particulars, namely, bread- fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas of thirteen sorts ; plantains, a fruit not unlike an a|)ple, which when ripe is very pleasant ; sweet potatoes, yams, cocoas, a kind of arum ; a fruit called- by the natives jambu, very delicious ; sugar- cane ; a root of the saloop kind, called pea; a plant called etiiee, a fruit named ajiee, not unlike a kidney bean, and which, when roasted, tastes like chesnuts ; a tree called wharra, producing a truit not unlike a pine apple; a shrub called nono ; the morinda, which also produces fruit ; a species of fern; and a plant called ava, of which the root<4 only are chewed ; all these, which serve the natives for food, the earth produces sponta- neously ; besides which there are a great va- riety of shrubs and plants, which serve f(»r various purposes of building houses, vessels, tools of different kinds, manufactures, dyes, &c. to enumerate which would be tedious. Of four footed animals the Island produces but few, none having been seen by the Europeans on their first landing, but hogs, dogs, and rats, of which last the inhabitants are very fond. Their wild fowl are ducks only, and the birds that haunt the wood, exce[)t small birds, are chiefly pigeons, and paroquets; but with fish the coast aboui \ of which . Poultry is flavoured as it may lie j goats, wh icf when we w€ fair for ans\ were put oi had two fea time ready t the old ewe fives seemed and they to were in exi may therefor circumstance, be spread o* The sheep w time after; bi alive. We al; of cats, not le we left at Uli The natives in size, rather Their food, wli is not such ji their drink, wh to provoke int fercourse with from their yout siness of tishing is the most lal « by them prj fhey who hav( lent, because r [fieir nnnts, hui f-veji their ch houses public e tacriues, their n working tools, t Kle, lire all pr uidiistry. Em pi Jo banish sloth Known to langui ainonsf them, ti »i It the medical «i'/er(,ble progrei and in general hrracefuliiess of 'ver. fo j,.d-e o andOmai, who AND ROUND THE WORLD. 271 of wiiicii the , varieties are nuraberkm. Poultry is not in plenty, nor is it so well flavoured as what we have in Europe. Here it may lie pif»f)er to observe, that the two iroats, which Capt. Fnrneaux sraTe to Otoo, when we were last here, seemed ♦n promise fair for answering the en J for \ i'.uh they were put on sliore. The evrv: . on after Had t>»o female kids, which n^ere at this time ready to propagate their species ; and the old ewe was again with kid. The na- tives seemed to Be very fond of them, and tliey to like their situation ; for they were in exceeding good condition. We may therefore reasonably hope ti-om this circumstance, that, in a few years, they may be spread over all the Isles in this ocean. The sheep which we left, died in a short time after ; but we understood one was yet alive. We also furnished them with a stock of cats, not less than twenty, besides what we left at Ulietea and Huaheine. The natives, particularly the chiefs, are in size, rather above the largest Europeans. Their ibod, which is of the simplest kind, is not such as to promote gluttony, nor their drink, which is chiefly water calculated to provoke intemperance. Their daily in- tercourse with the ocean accustoms thera from their youth to exercise ; and the bu- siness of fishing, which in northern countries is the most laborious of all employments, is by them practised as their amusement. They who have represented them as indo- lent, because nature supplies liberally all tlieir wants, have mistaken their character. Eveu their chiefs are artists, and their houses public edifices, canoes, and manu- factures, their utensils, instruments of war, working tools, thf^r boats, and fishing tac- kle, are all proofh incontestible of their ijitlnstry. Employments of this kind tend to banish sloth ; and no person was ever known to languish with an mcurable disease amonir them, though it does not appear, tint the medical art has yet made any con- siderable progress. Much has been said, anil in general with strict truth, of the eracefulness <»f their persons; yet if we were to .i\.dge of the whole by A.utorou, and Oiaaii, who were brought to England, 7 is not uncommon for ladies of the first rani to single out a handsome well proportionec they might be thought to have little claim to that perfection ; yet their chiefs hav« undoubtedly a comparative dignity ; but that comparison is to be confined at home between prince and peasant, and not ex- tended to European countries, where grace and dignity are leading characters. 'J'lieir women difter from each other in personal charms as in all other countries; but in stature, those of superior rank take special care to preserve the family distinction. It . I youth, to prevent degeneracy, when th« stature of the family is in danger of being reduced ; but they are otherwise scrupulous in nothing so much as in mixing with the canaille, and there is scarcely an instance of their cohabiting indiscriminately with the lower class of people. There is perhaps no nation where the jiride of ancestry is carried to a greater height, and yet they have no means of recording liieir pedigree, but by oral tradition, nor any rule for con- tinuing the line, but what nature has im- pressed wpon the mother. Having no schools, nothing is to be acquired by educa- tion, example is their principal instructor and guide; the pattern set by the father is followed by the son, and what the mother does, that the daughter learns ; but that is not to be understood to perpetuate hus- bandry and arts, as in China, in particular families ; for in Otaheite husbantlry and ai-ts are not imposed as tasks, but are rat.ber amusements to pass away time. None are compelled to work, yet all are employed; their several stations, chance seems to have allotted ; and here is no murmuring against providence for not being more bonijtiful. One precaution observed among the iireat in order to give vigour to their chiefs must not be omitted, and that is, they never suffer an intercourse between the sexes till liotb parties arrive at full maturity. The very reverse of this is practised by the multitude, who in general are »s mucli below the rom- mon standard as their chiefs excee;) it. They are almost all tattowed, women as well as men. Tn this there seems to be something mystical ; the priest performs tlje ^^.Kw UMl^a'^IK- l^tS -fl^ JBh yHS^B^f ' - v : ^Bl 1^ K ,H§L'^Vk |W|ple form a distinct society, in which every woman is common to eveiy man ; and at their meetings, which are distinguished by the name of Arreoy, the sports they practise mn i)i S7i VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, are beyond imagination won ton. We may trace somewhat like this in the history of ttie ancient inhabitants of our own Island. Perhaps it would be no exaggeration to add* thut in the city of London, there are as many men as the whole [slund of Otaheite con- tains, who devote themselves entirely to the pleasures of sensuality, and who attach themselves to no one woman, bnt ei^joy indiscriminately all they may ; and that there are an equal number of women to be met with, who are at ail times ready to gratify their desires. iire.YS, among the ladies of Otaheite, seems to be ns niiiRh studied, as in more civilized nations. However, neither the feet nor legs, even of the (][uality, have any covering, or any defence from the ground, or the scorch- imv heat of the snn, which at some seasons is very intense : but they are very nice in ornamenting their heads, and in shading their faces. That part of their head-dress, ' in which fthey pride themselves most, is threads of human hairi sodelicatelv plaited, that it is not unusual for them to have gar^' lands of this manufacture wound round their he^ds ; the plaits whereof being inter- wove with flowers have a very pretty efiect, and are exceedingly becoming to young laces. In their ears they wear ornaments, tvhroh before the European beads, consisted of bene, tortoiseshell, or any thing shining and shewy. The other part of their dress is very sim*>le; being a piece of cloth 'about a yard and a half wide, and between thrit and four yards long, having a hole cut in the middle, just big enough to let the kefi4 pass easily through ; this flows round Iben j^,. and covers them a little below the waist ; from thence a lar^e q|^oantity of the same cloth is gathered in folds, and tied ronnd them as we tie a cravat round the tie«k, which, being dravrn into a large knot, is again spread out, and flows artlessly down before, nearly as low as the knees, while the greatest quantity of the cloth falls dbwn behind, in appearance not unlike* the dnsss of the Roman orators. This habit is iv jfirom being ungraceful, and there is little difference between that of the sexes, exoejpt that the. 4o\Ver garments of the men at-e 2 nearly of an equal length before and behind. The cloth tht^ wear is of very different textures. What is worn in dry weather is no other than paper made of the riads of trees ; but that which they put on when it rains is more substantial, and is properly a kind of matting incomj>arably plaited. I'he shape of their clothm^, like that of our own, is neorlv the same irom the prince to the peasant, -the only distinctions being the quantity worn, and the colour; the lower class of people wearing only one single garment ; the better sort as many as, were they made of broad cloth, would bur- den them to carry. One thing, however, app^rs singular. When they salute eacii other, they constantly anbare themselves from the waist upwards^ throwing ofi^ their tunics, as we may call them, with the same ease, and for the same purpose, as we pull off^ oar hats. This salutation is common to the womisn as well as the men, and in the universal practice. We have occasion- ally mentioned how fond the peiople oi Otaheite are of red feathers, which they call Oora ; and these are as highly valued here as jewels are in Europe: especially wiiat they oali Oravine, whicii grow on the head of the green paroquet and though all reij feathiers please, none are esteemed equally with thescw They are such good judges as to know very well how to distinguish one sort from another ; and many of our people attempted in vain to deceive them with other feathers dved red. These ornaments o^drtaa are made up in little bunches, con- sisting of eight or ten, and fixed to the end of a sman cord "ibout three or four inches lMig,'Wbich is made of the outside fibres of the cocoa-nut, twisted so hard that it is like a wire, and serves as a handle to the bunch. When composed in this manner, they ore used* as symbols of the Eatuas, or divinities in all' their religious ceremonies. Sonu- times they hold one of these bunches, and at Others only two or three feathers between thtt f«re>-tinger and thumb, and say a prayer, iiot one word of which we coald understand. Whoever makes a voyage to this island, will do well to provide himself with red feathers, the finest and smallest that «ie to be got. He must : hatchets, i glasses, I shirts, wh very dcsin The art be reduce carving, painting. reniarkabl( Island, wl monument pile of sto feet long, base, raised of forty.foi four feet h they end ii near the mi carved in m broken frag This pile m side of a sqi hundred anil and fifty-fon and paved h^ its whole ej rounded wit tvithin it of a distance the i gination can erected could reeorrls of pa structed or c dimensions, i and so nrcely warn, it must with «)dmira exaifiuies all i a mass of mai mer in an !»]« oe found ; ho^ with such exj I?»n, without i'ttle harder wey were ap ♦nornious bloc be raised to th «ose and covei jxcite the wo Voider; but to Atil) KOUND THE WORLD. 2lb He mii^t al^o have a p:co- llier in an Island wherein no quarries are to be found ; how these materials could be cut with such exactness as to form a pile by rain, without cement, and that with tooisi little harder than the substance to which they were applied ; and, lastly^ how these enorntous blocks of stone conia afterwards be raised to the height of ibrty-jfbur ftHi to close and cover in the building, mnst mtrely excite the wonder of every ordinaty b^^ holder; but to mark the symmetqr of the wholfr, so justly proportioned in every part, As to display the most consummate judg- ment, mnst afford a feast to an enlightened mindi of which an ordinary seaman can have no relish. This noble structure, and strong proof of genius, will remain «ise ad- ndiratioii of all who havb the pleasure of seeing it, perhaps, as long as the Island itirelf shall endure ; for being solid, and withotit a cavity, no time, tlrt will not equally affect the Island, can destroy it. Of their carving in stone there are very few specimens to be produced, and indeed, wliea their tools they have to work with are con<* spidered, it is more to be admired, that there ar6 any, than that there are so few ; but we have reason to hope, that now they are made acquainted with the use of iron, and have considerable quantities of that metal among them, that their improvements will speedily b« proportioned to their advan-* tages, and the acuteness of their under* standing. Bat of their carving in wood, we saw not a tool, or ordinary utensil, that did not discover evident proofs of their expertness in this art. Their vess^els for navigation are all adorned with it ; and in some of their performances an excellence is discemable, which, with snch tools as they have to work with, no European carver could exceed. With regard to their ship- building, they are upon a footing with their neighbours, if not at present .superior to them. Their ordinary vessels are well adapted to the seas they have to navigate, and we never heard of a single instance of one of them being cast away. Mast of them are elevated at the head and stern, for the purpose of defending the rowers from the surf, which on these Islands breaks upon the shore with uncommon violence. Those of Otaheite are in form not unlike the punt boaits, with flat bottoms, such as are used by our fishermen on the river Thames, or rather like those used for the same pur- pose on the Severn : they are no where wider than three feet, thouffh some of them are more than sixty feet long ; nor are they an inch deeper in the body, though at the head and stern they rise with a curvature more th^n twelve Iteet A» it would be i'i-h mm 27(5 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLl^ impossible to navigate these vessels, so long, and so narrow without some contrivance to keep them upright, they place two of them as near as cin be of the same dimensions along-siJe of each other, at three, four, or five feet distance, and with strong S[>ars join them together; then raising a mast in each, they hoist a square sail, the yards of which are fastened above and below to the corres- ponding masts, and thus equipped, with a ^abin erected between them to stow their provisions, ihey will keep the sea for several days. In ringing their double canoes, they have a rule tor proportioning the height of the masts to the length of the keel, and of fitting the sail to the height of the mast ; they likewise have a contrivance of sailing in single canoes bv means of out-riggers, which project on the lee-side of the vessel, and prevents their over-setting : to this oui- jiigger one; corner of the sail is 9iade fast. which sail being wide at the bottom, and rounding to a' point at the top, very much resembles what the boatmen cadi asnoukler of Qinttpn sail, frequently seen on the river Thames., To those who have been told, that: the masojn can joint with so much nicety as to be impervious to water, it will not seem strange that their carpenters can do the same with respect to timber ; yet it certainly must require much art, and mcre- dible labour, first to fell the tree, then. to cleave it out into planks, then to hollow it out into the intended shape ; next to smooth and polish it, after that to joint it, and last of all to put it together, and saw it; for they were wholly ignorant of the art of bolt- ing it with wooden bolts, or jointing it together b;^ means of mortices, tdl the Eu- ropeans visited them. It is no wonder, therefore, that they^ dreaded nothing so much as the destruction of their boats, when threatened by the English for any offence, nor that they should be. more careful in covering their boat-houses from the sun and rain, than they are in securing their dwell- ings from the same injury. As the whole art of navigation depends upon their ini- nutely observing the motions of the heavenly bodies, it is astonishing with what exact- ttcss their navigators can describe tHe mo- tions, and changes of those IiuHinftric& There was not a star in the hemisphere, fixed, or erriUic, but Tupia could give a name to, tell when, and where it would appear, and disappear ; and what was still more wonderfhl, be could tell, from the aspect of the heavens, the changes of the wmd, and the alterations of the weather, several days before they happened. B; this intelligence he had been enabled to visit most of the Islands for many degrees round that of which he was a native. By the sun they steer in the day, and by the stars in the night: and by their skill in pr«.Mginff the weather, they can, without danger, lengthen or shorten their voyages as appearances are for or against them. Having no medium wbei:ewith to trade, their voyages seem wholljr calculated foi discovery, or to increase their aoqw\aintance with other nations. Riches they do not seem solicitous to acquire. They certainly interchange their conrituodtcies among them* selves, as well as with strangers ; the fisher- man barters his fish for the planter's bread fi'uit, and so of the rest ; yet every man seems to be a fisherman, and every man a planter : this shews, that we are still stran* gers to their civil economy. It had been good policy to have suffered two or tliree young persons, who were desirous of stay in;^ behind, to have settled among them, espe- cially, as there was reason to believe, tlial the Island would again be visited, if for no other reason than to restore to them tlie natives who had voluntarily unditrtaken a voyage to Europe ; but against this Capt. Cook seems to have been carefully guarded. With respect to the art of painting among these people, to us it appeared to be in a r^de state,, being chien^ confined to the figures represented on their bodies, and the ornaments on their canoes. The fig.ures on their bodies are generally, those of hirds and fishes, sometimes afjter nsiture, and sometimes the efliisions of fancy , but what- ever is represented, the outline is traced with surprizing exactness. This art is solely confine^ to ,the priesthood » and is performed like bs^tism as a rite, without which, aftec a certain age, none are accounted worthy ofMciety. period allot rite, for bef( unable to < sort of paini ers may be < in colouring ?yre-boats, I sometimes w with red. V few remaks canoes, couj Capf. Co ace five days 'k when last at Otaheite conceived rattier an unfit vourable opinion of Oloo's capacity and talents; but the rapid im- provements since- made in the [sland con- viucecl us, that he must be a man of good mrts : and it is certain that he has some uiticious, sensible men about him, who 'rave u great .share in the government ; but we cannot say how far his power extends as king, nor how far he can command the assistar.re of (he other chiefs, or is controuV- aMe by them : this however is certain, that i\\ have contributed towards bringing the l>le to its present flourishing state: yet we found it not without divisions among their great men. The kin^ told us, that Towha, the admiral, and Poatatou, were not bis friends. These being: two leading chiefs, (to must have been jealous of them on account of their great |x*wer; yet on every occasion he seemed to court their interest. We are inclined to think they raised by far tlie greatest number of vessels and men, to gu against Eimeo^ and were to be the two commanders in the expedition, which, according to co«nmon report, was to t^e ]) ace five days after our departure. Wahea- t( ua, king of Tiarabou, was to join this fleet to that of Otoo^ artd that young prince was to be one of the commanders. ^ One would think so small an Island as Eimee* would have endeavoured to settle matters by negotiation rather than resist the united force of those two powerful nations: yet nothing was heard or talked of but fighting. Tnwha said more than once, that he should die in the action. Oedidee thought the battle would be fought at sea ; but we thought it most probable, that the people of Eimeo would remain at home on the defensive, as we were informed they did about five or six ^ears ago, when attacked by the people ol Tiarabou, whom they repulsed. "We were told, that five gene- ral officers were to command in this expe- dition, of which number Otoo was one ;. and, if they named them in order according to the posts they held, Otoo was only the third in command ; which seems probable enough ; for he being but a young man he could not have sufficient experience to be commander in chief, where the greatest skill and judgment seemed to be necessary.. Capt. Cook was disposed to have staid five or six days longer, had he been sure the expedition would have taken place in that, time, but it seemed they wanted us to be ^one first. It was swnetimes reported that it would not be undertaken before ten moons ; as if it was necessary to .have that time to put every thing in order. For seve- ral days before we sailed, Otoo and the other chiefs had ceased to solicit our alli- ance and assistance which they were con- tinually doing at first ; and after Capt» Cook had assured Otoo, that if they ^ot t-heir fleet ready in time he would sail with them down to Eiraeo, we heard no more o£ it. Probably they thought it more political to be without us, knowing it was in our power to bestow the victory on whom we pleased^ Be this as- it may, they undoubt» edly wanted us to be gone before they; undertook any thin^; and thus we were deprived, niueh against our inclination, oft' seeing the whole fleet assembled on thi» occasion, and, perhaps- of being, spectators of a well conducted engagement at sea.. What number of vessels were appointed for this grand expedition we could not learn.. y^e beard of no more than two hundred and ten, besides a number of small canoeis for transports, and the allied fleet of Tiarabou^ the strength of which we eouM not gain the least intelligence: nor conkl we learn the number of men necestoi^> to> man this fleet. Whenever the question was asked» tlie answer was WaroUf-warou, warou te Tata, that is, many, many, men. 4llowin^ forty to each> waroafloe,and four to each i^mi FjKKjBjSW >' mV-'fltl IBRW'ii'i ^m- S' ^'^fiiii jj^iwi t '^W i^KPSBn H.^ mm K,^HI 278 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, of the others/ which is a moderate compu- tation, and the number will amount to nine thousand ; an astonishinq* number, if we consider they were to be raised in only four districts, and one of them, namely* Matavia, did not equip a fourth part of the fleet. That of Tiarabou is not included in this account ; and many other districts might be arminpr which we c^new nothings of; yet we think the whole Island ofOta- heite did oot arm on this occasion, for we saw not any preparations making at Opar- ree. We believe that the chief, or chiefsr of each district, superintended the equip- ping of the flecit belonging to that district ; after which they must pass in review before tlie king, Who by this means knows the state of the whole mtended to go on service. The number of war canoes belonging to AM^hourou and Ahopata is an hundred and sixty; to Tettaha forty; to Matavia ten ; now if we suppose every district in the Island, of which there are forty-three, to raise and equip the same number of war eanoes as Tettaha, according io this esti« niQte, the whole Island can raise and equip one thousand seven hundred and twenty war canoes, and sixty-eight thousand able men, allowing forty to each canoe ; and seeing these cannot amount to above one third part of the number of both sexes, children included, the whole Island cannot contain less than two hundred and four thousand inhabitants. This at first sight exceeded our belief; bnt when, upon a ireview of this calculation, we considered the vast swarms of natives which appeared wherever we went, we were convinced our estimate was not much, if at all too great. There cannot, in our opinion, be a stronger proof of the richness and fertility of Ota- Aeite (not forty leagues, or 130 miles, in circuit) than that of its supporting such a number of warriors and wcnike inhabi- tants, all artists, and possessed of a fleet both their glor^ and defence. Such ii^ the f resent state of the arts in this- celebrated sland, which, had Tnpia lived to have come to England, and to have ret«>rned again to his «>wii country, would, ne> doubt, kave received «tiU m*re rapid improve^ 6 ments ; for he was a man of veal genius, a priest of the tirst order, and an excellent artist. His boy Tayota w«.s the ikriing of the Endeavour's crew, bn'mgi of a mild and docile disposition, ready to do any kind oflice for the meanestiHi the ship; never complainingi but aiways: pleased. They both died much lamented at Batavia, the occasion of which has been related in its proper place. The manufactnresiof Otahcite kre of v^ nous kinds; that of doth is in the highest estimation among* them. The material olr which one sort is made is neither spun, nor woven in a loom, but in every respect is pi«. pared atlter the first simple manner of mak« ing paper before mills were applied to hei- litate tiie labour. The bark is flrat stripped from the tree and laid in the water, as we do flax, to soak ; it is then divested of the rind by scraping, till only the flbres of the inside remain. When properly cleansed, it is placed upon leaves, one layer by the .side of another, till it isofsutficient breadth; atid in the same manner, it is extended to what length the manufacturer chuses, or the ground will admit ; and to strengthen it, and increase its breadth,. one layer is laid over another till it is of the substance requir- ed. This done, it is left to drain, and when juKt drv enough to be raised from the ground, it is placed upon a kind of stage made of smooth boards, and beat with a squctre beat- er about a foot long, and two or three inches broad. On each of the four sides of this beater parallel Fines are cut lengthwise: these lines differ in fineness in a proportion from small twine to a silken thread. They first begin with the coarsest side of the bea^ ter and finiifih with the finest. By the con^ tinuai application of this beater, in which two p€0|)ie are continually employed, who stand opposite to each other, on each side of the stage, and regulate their strokes like smiths on an anvil, the cloth, if cloth it may be called, in its rough state thins apace, and as it thins, it of ooui'se increases in breadth. When- it has undergone this process, it is then spreml out to whiten, whkh when sufficiently done, it is delivered tothe ladiest whose province is to look it carefUlly ov«i aiifl to remt yieted it is nfter which this process henre^ tend to say, We believe not Ion?*-'. The kin^ oi Tiarabon, are a branch of tlie family of Opoureonn ; at present the tAV(> are neariy related,, and we believe the for., mer is in some measure, dependent on the latter. Otoo is styled Earee de hie of the whole Island ; and we were told, that Wa- heatoua^ the kincr of Tiarabou, must uil-^' cover before him, in the same manner as the lowei^t order of his subjects do. This homage is net only paid \a Otoo, but to TarevatoH, his brother, and his second sister to the one as heir, and to the other ias heir appareiit. We have sometimes seen the Kowas and Whannos ' covered before the king, baf whether by corartesy or by viitue ^. i>80 VOYAGE TOWAUJ>S THE SOUTH POLE, of their office, we could not learn. These liien, who are thfe urincipal persons i^bout the king, and form his court, are generally, if not always his relations. Tee, so often mentioned m this narative, was one of them. The Eowas, who hold the first rank, attend in turns, a certain number each day, so that they may be called lords in waiting. We seldom found Tee absent, and his at- tendance was necessary, as being best able •to negotiate matters b«tween Capt. Cook and the chiefs ; on this service he was always employed, and he executed the same, we have reason to believe, to the satisfaction of both parties. The Eowas and Whannos always eat with the king ; nor do we know of any one being excluded from this privilege, but the Toutouai ; for as to the woman, as we have already c^.s«rved, they never eat with the men, let their rank be ever so much elevated. Notwithstand- ing these established orders, there was very Jittle about Otoo's person or court, whereby a stranger could distinguish the king from the sufa)iect. We rarely saw him dressed in any thing but a common piece of cloth wrapped round his loins ; so that he seemed to avoid all ontward pomp, and even to demean himself more than any of his Earees •round him. We have seen his majesty work at a paddle, in coming to and going from the ship, in oooinion with others in the boat ; and even when some of his Ton- tons sat looking on : and such is the uncon- trouled liberty of this happy Isle, that every individual has free excess to him without the least ceremony ; hence it is, that the Barees and other chiefs are more beloved than feared by the bulk of the people. We should think ourselves happy in knowing more of this mild and equal government, than the general out line ; for as to the or- ders of the constituent parts, how con- structed, disposed, and connected, so as to form one body politic, we can say but little. From what we have been able to discover, •nd gather from information, it (Kerns very evidently to be(of the fnedal kind; and a remarkable conformity appears betwreo the Dolitical establishment of Otaheite, nnd that of the ancient Britons which coii- 8 sisfed of several small nations, under several petty princes, or chiefs, who in case.s of Oommon danger united under one head. These chiefs had all of tliem their res])ec. tive families, who multiplying, beeani^ h distinet class from the oommon people, and (preserved by their [lersonal courage, and enitv, a very great influence over them. Of these two classes, added to that of the priesthood, the whole body politic consisted ; so that among them, what one class found necessary to command, the other was ready to execute. Hence it was that industry took place, and arts were invented; and this seems to be the present state of thi Islanders of whom we are now speaking. Laws they had none, but such as arose from the idea of superiority and submission, such as excite parents to correct the faults of their children ; neither have the Otaheiteam any other at this day. There is no crime among them that subjects a man to death, and wlien life is taken away, it is always in the heat of pa.ssion or resentment, and not the effect of tormal accusation and delibe. rate punishment. The contention that arose among the chiefs becaine the qnarrels of the whole community, unU those quarrel; necessarily led the parties ♦.» have r«;course to arms, and in proportion as the conten- tions grew more frequent, the weapons that were contrived tor defience, grew more des- perate. It was not however, till after civili- zation took place, that contentions fur liberty began to spread devastatipn among peopi^ of the same community. In their primary state of subjection, the people never enter- tained a thought that they w^re in slavery; they obeyed as children do their parents, from a pnnciple originating in nature, which induces the weak to submit to the strong, and those of uninformed underst^ndin;; to be gnverned by those whose wisdom and courage they readily acknowledge. Tliisi, in our opinion, is an impartial and just representation of the state of the civil ^o* vernment in Otaheite, wherein none thuik themselves slaves, yet few are free. As to the religion of this people, we are as much at a loss for materials to form an opinion on this subject as former navigators. AND ROUND THE WORLD. 281 flm iiltle iiirormat»an we have hitherto re- pcivVJ is so va^ue and contradictory, that nothing}' with certainty can be said about it. We liave said they have idols, yet they ap- ucur not to be idolaters; that they have places of worship, yet never assemble in uoii'^regalions to pay adoration ; that they uoknowledye deities of several orders but lliat they have no forms of addressing theui ; und that they mutter somewhat like extem- nornry prayers, yet have no oratories, or jbims or devotion, nor any set times for private or public worship. They have prie!, it is set down on the beach ; the priest i euews his i: ■ . ' ;) '- J ■ 'I I .1 J.. :i i ITS'! 2S2 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE. prayers, and takin|[? up some of tlie water )ii Ills huiul, Sprinkles it towarch the body, but not ii|>oii it. It is then carried back forty or fitly yards, and soon after brought a^i^iiin to the beach, where the prayers and spriiiklinq: are reneated. It is thus removed backwards and forwards several times ; and dunii!^ the performance of this ceremony, a linnse has been built, and a small piece of ground railed round, in the centre of wlii<:li a stage is erected whereon they place the bier, and the body is left to putrify, till the flesh is wasted from the bones. As soon as the body is deposited in the Morai, the mourning is renewed. The women now assemble, and are led to the door by the nearest relation, who strikes a shark's tooth several times into the crown of her head ; tlie blood copiously follows, and is carefully received upon pieces of cloth, or linen, wliicli are thrown under the bier. The rest of the women follow this example, and tbe ceremony is repeated at the interval of two or three days, as long as the zeal and sor- row of the parties hold out. The tears also which are shed ujion this occasion are received upon pieces of cloth, and oflTered as oblations to the dead. Some of the younger people cut off their hair, which is likewise thrown under the beir. This cus- tom is founded on the notion, as some of our gentlemen thought, that the soul of the tlie deceased is hovering about the place where the body is deposited; that it ob- st^rves the actions of the survivors, and is giiititied by such testimonies of their affec- tion and grief; but whether this is part of the natives faith is very problematical ; neither, in our opinion, is it certain, that the priest \s an attendant in tlie funeral pro- cession down to the water's eii^e ; for in the funerals at which Mr. Banks was one of the ?arty no mention is made of a priest ; and 'uberai Tumaide, who was chief mourner, ?erforined the whole of the funeral service, 'he natives are all said to fly before these processions, and the reason assigned is, be- cause the chief mourner carries in his hand a long flat stick, the edge of which is set with sharks teeth, atid in a phrensj^, which 6is grief is supposed to have inspired, he 3 runs at all he sees, and if any of them hap. pen to lie overtaken, he strikes them nioNt unmercifully with his indented cudgel, which cannot fail to wound them in a most dangerous manner ; but this reason, though a plausible one, does not, in nai jjudgment, seem to come up to what is suid in the course of the relation, by the compiler of Capt. Cook's voyage, who tells us, tlin( while the corpse is carrying in procession, the people every where fly ant! hide them^! selves in the woods, and that none but ttinsc immediately concerned in it, if they cari avoid it, come in sighf. Were it only for fear of the cudgel tlixc these people fled, they needed not to run so far as the woods, nor to quit their houses (as Mr. Banks ob' served they did when the corpse of an old woman, whose fnneral he attended, came by in procession) to hide themselves in holes; it would have been sufticient for them to have kept out of the reach of the cudgel ; but they must be awed by some secret motive: some superstitious dread of some misfortune happening to them, should they meet the corpse, either in an unlucky place, or in an ominious situation ; as at this day many people in the northen parts of Britain p:et out of the way of a corpse when carrying to the grave, for these or the like reasons. The people of Otaheite, we think, are not intimidated by the appre- hension of being beaten ; but they may have a dread upon them of they know not what : yet it is such a dread as insensibly impels them to keep at a distance, and if they are by accident surprized, and meet 'a corpse at the corner of a street, or the rounding of a hill, they never fail to bless themselves, and turn the way the corpse is carrying, and walk in the same direc- tion for sveral paces to avert the bad etlkts of the unlucky omen, which they always interpret against themselves. In an ac- count of the funeral ceremonies of the Is- landers in the South Seas, the writer, who judged from what he himself saw, and not from what was reported to him, tells us, that the priest, accompanied with two hoys painted black, attend the Moiai, or pltiie where the corpse is deposited, to rersive tlie :•/. - AND ROUND THE WORLD. 2^\3 bogs, fii^li* (^"(1 other provisions, wh' .h on these occasions are offered to the Ethoua, or deity of tlie place, and to lay them upon an altur. This priest is^ also einpioved in itrewins over the bodv of the defunct leaves, and flowers of bamboo ; and for two or three days he occasionally ranges the adja- cent fields and woods, from wliioli every one retires on his approach. Tiie relations, in the mean time, build a temporary house near the Morai, where they assemble, and the females mourn for the deceased, by sinsinif songs of grief, howling, and wound- ing tiieir bodies in different places with Bharks teeth ; after which Ihey bathe their wonnds in the next river or sea, ami again return to howl and cut themselves, wiiich they continue for three days. After the body is corrupted, and the bones are be- come bare, the skeleton is deposited in a sort of stone-pyramid built for that purpose. These Morals are frequented by two birds ga^red to their gods, namely, the grey heron, and a blue and brown king-fisher ; but whether these birds, or the priest and his attendants eat the offerings tluit are made to the presiding deity, or whether they are eaten at all, we are not informed, though we liiive spared no pains in making inqui- ries among our friends and fellow voyagers, concerning this and several other doubtful and questionable particulars. It is agreed, however, that the piety of the natives is in no instance so strongly expressed as in the profusion of covering they bestow upon the remains of their deceased friends, and in the ornaments with wliich they decorate llieir iVIorais, but these Morais are not the receptacles of the ordinary dead, but appro- piiatetl solely to the use of the principal liimilies to which e-vch respectively belongs : linw it fares with the bodies of the common herd we could not learn, whether they are suffered to rot upon the ground, or under it; nor have our principals afforded us information concerning this particular ; in- deed, they seem to have been most intent upon what is striking in high life, without regarding the ordinary occurrences that daily pass among the multitude ; these did not muct attract their notice. We shall i'ust add to what has been said utiiltr tlijt ead, that the ()talreit«ans iavc luillicr physicians nor surireons, by protess-oo, ex- cept the priest, whose relief consists in pray- ers and ceremonies, not in et he was perfectly cured, and never complained of any bud efiects of his wound. One man had his head ;.!most crushed, his face beat in, his nose tlal:ed, and one eye beat out, the hollow of v/hicli would almost admit one's fist ; yet this man, we are told, was cured, and to all appearance felt no remaining Eain. A tlnrd had a stone through his ead with a sling, in the time of action, and yet strange and improbable as it may seem, he like the others, we are informed, appeared to enjoy a good state of health. We will not vouch for the truth of all the circumstances in these relations, which we think are rather of the marvellous kind, yet we may be allowed to infer from the facts themselves, that they are incontestible proofs, that the natives of Otaheite have a knowledge of the virtues of balsitnis, of which we are either not possessed, or arc ignorant of their healing qualities. From this narrative of the Island of Otaheite and its inhabitants, some will be ready to envy them their felicity ; but it must be remem- bered a$ a soil to this, that they do not alwajrs sleep in security : they are frequently surprized bj^ their warlike neighbours, and whole districts are depopulated ; for if in the invasions of one another's territories they happen to prove successful, the victors spare neither man, woman, nor child. But it is time now to return to the ship, which on the 14th, of May we left under sail, and that night she cleared the reef. On Sunday the 15th, we had an open sea* with a fine breeze in our favour, and MiV/^ "f:'Hiii ;;;?'. VOVAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, Eui'siied oiir voyage to the N. W, and N. W. y W. The same night we made the Is- land of Huaheine, and anchored in the north entrance of O'VVharrc harbour. Oree, the chief, and several of the natives Eaid us visits. Oree, among other articles, roiight with him a ho.u- ; and the next day, being the 16th, Capt. Cook returned Oree's visit, presenting to him some red feathers, H^hich he held in his hand, and muttered over them a prayer. This morning the peo- ple began to bnng us fruit. The chief sent us two hogs, which were followed bjj him- self and friends who came to dine with ns. Oree asked for axes and nails, which were readily given him. These he distributed as he pleased, but bestowed the largest share upon a youth who appeared to be his grand- .*5on. After the distribution was over they all returned ashore. Mr. Forster, and a party with him, went up the country to ex- amine its productions ; which he continued fls a daily task during the ship's continuance in this harbour. As a servant of Mr. Forster's was wf»lking along the shore, without a companion, he was beset by se- veral stout fellows, who would have strip- ped him, had not some of our people arrival to his assistance. One of the men made off with a hatchet. This day the number of natives that came about the ship was so great, that it was found necessary to place centinels in the gangways, to preveiit the men from coming on board : but no oppo- sition was madeto the women, so that the ship was crowded with them. On Tuesday the 17th, we found Oree 0nd a great number of the principal people assembled in a house consulting together. We heard (he late robbery inentiin 'd by thrm Severn! times ; but the chief ussurfd us neither himself nor his friends had jmy liatid in the same, anrf desired Capt. VnaU. to kill with his guns those that nad. VVe could not learn where the robb«^rs were p:one, and therefore, at present, took no more notice of (he affair. In t'»e ever-ng a dramatic entertainment was exhibited, 1 he subject of tlie piecH was that of a girl Junning av/ay with us from Otaheite. This Was not wholly a fiction, fOiT a girl had taken her passage with us from Ulretca, and was at th?8 time present when her own adven- tures were represented ; she could hardly refrain from tears while the play was actinjr; and it was with much ditfi^^ulty we pe/ suaded her to stay out the entertainnit'iit, At the conclusion of the piece, the girl's return to her friends was represented ; and the reception she met with was not a fa- vourable one. It is very probable that this part of the comedy was designed to deter others from going away with ns. On Wednesday, the 18th, king Ore? cama and dined on board, and the Captain, at his desire, ordered the great guns to be shot- ted, and fired into the water, by way of salute at his arrival and departure: indeed he had by Oedidee given us to understand that he expected the same honours to be paid to him, as had been shewn to the chiet's of Otaheite. A party of petty officers liav- ing obtained leave to amuse themselves in the country, they took with them some hatchets, nails, &c. in bags, which were carried l)y two natives, who went with them as their guides, to shew the way. These fellows made off with th'e trust repo<;ed in them, and artfully enough effected tlieir escane. The party had with them t^vo muskets; and after it had rained some time, the natives pointed out some birda for them to shoot. One of the gnus went off, and the other misled fire several ti:nes. At this instant, when the fellows saw them- selves secure from both, they took the opportunity to run away, and not one oi the party, being all inticli surprized, h;\(\ presence of mind enough to pursue tlieti). On the 19th, a report was current, that tlit^ natives intended to rise and attack the sliip. TheCapta.n, though he did notthiidi theni serious irj such an attempt, yet was unwil- ling totally to disregard the intimation: he therefore ordered twenty stand of arms to be in readiness, in cnse any commotion should be observed among them ; hut though the rumour increased thiouuhdiit the day, yet no preparations con hi be per- ceived to countenance such are^jort; uiid the king continued his visits as usual, never €oming emj)ly handed. On Frida; lieutenants 01) a shoot niore than took from bed them o with them t lieutenant h of the othe blow. Whe of their mer their fowlin tion came tc he went imr shore and e were twochi he took pos till he hean safe on boan stored to the was so much this, that he we learnt f that a small occasion of itfterfering, crowd, ami c been taken i the tilth, we most of the p steering for IJ firoiiig to visit bonring Ish have customs selves ; and a requires : we Free Masons sent a messai wonid come t met! with hi' chastise the n him twenty-t his memory, j fliese peof)le. an extraordin tain went to t O'Pe inform ♦>^^ie a set tliemselves inl h» rob all they M ere now asse AND ROUND THE WORLD. i!8.J On Friday, tlie 20th, tlie first and second lieutenants with one of tlie mates, being out OH a shooting party, they were beset by more than fifty of the natives, who first took from them their arms, and then rob- bed them of what juticles ihey had carried with tliem to trade. In the scutfle the first lieutenant lost the skirt of his coat, and one of the other gentlemen received a severe blow. When the robbers had stripped them of their merchandizes, they restored to them their fowling? pieces. When this trjiusac- tion came to tlse knowledge of Capt. Cook, he went immediately with a bout's crew on shore and entered a large house wherein were two chiefs. This, with all their etfects, he took possession of, and remained there, till he heard that the gentlemen had got safe on board, and had all their things re- stored to them. Oedidee informed us, Oree was so much aflfected with the relation of this, that he wept much. When on board, we learnt from the officers themselves, that a small insult on thfir part was the occasion of the affray ; but some chiefs interfering, took the officers out of the crowd, and caused every thing which had been taken from them to be restored. On the 2lth, we saw upwards of sixty canoes, most of the people in them being Earef Aes, steering for IJlielea, and we heard they were tjoing to visit their brethren in the neigh- bouring Islands. It seems these people have customs among them peculiar to them- selves ; and assist each other when necessity requires: we may therefore call them the Free Masons of Hnaheine. This day Oree sent a message to Capt. Cook, desiring he would come on shore, and bring twenty-two men with him, in order to search for and chastise the robbers. Oedidee brought with him twenty-two |)ieces of leave.«\ to assist his memory, a custom very common among these people. This message seemed to us ail extraonlinary one, and therefore the cap- tain went to the chief for better information. Oree informed him, that these fellows »>^ie a set of banditti, who had formed themselves into a body, and had resolved tftroball they met, for which purpose they were now asseniljled and armed. These rob- ^ bars Oree wanted us to attack, the Captain said they would fly to the mountains; but he assured us to the contrary, and desired we would destroy both them and their habita- tions, only sparing their canoes. This re- quest seemed extraordinary, but the Captain was resolved to comply with it in part, lest these fellows should make more head, and becouie formidable ; and also with a view of preventing the report from gaining ground in I'lietea, where we intended going, and we were apprehensive anunciations might be formed in like manner, and the people might treat us in the same way, or worse, they being moie numerous. Capt. Cook and his officers made ready to accompany king Oree in the expedition against the robbers; and having ordered fifty marines with some sailors to be well armed, they landed near the palace of the king, and hav. ing required him to conduct them according to his pnjmise, he very readily consented, and they ail set out together in very good order. The party increased as we proceed- ed ; and Oedidee told us, that several of the banditti had joined us, with the view of decoying us into a place, where they might attack us to advantage. As we could place no confidence in any other person, we took his advice, and proceeded with caution. We marched several miles, when Capt. Cook declared he would proceed no farther: besides we were informed that the men had fled to the mountains. At this time we were about to cross a deep valley, with steep rocks on each side, where our »"^^':eat might have been rendered difiicult, by a few men assaulting us with stones. Oedi- dee persisted in his opinion ; and we march- ed back in the same order as we came. As we went a'ong, we observed several people coming down the sides of the h^Hs with clubs, which they immediately hid when they found we saw them. This was some confirmation of Oedidee's suspicions ; but we could not persuade ourselves that the chief had any such intention, whatever miaht be the designs of his people. In our return we halted at a convenient place, agd wanting some refreshments, they were imtiiediately brought us. When we arrived n mk li*lK 386 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, at the landin*? place we discharged several volleys, to crmviiice the natives, that we could support a continual fire : after which we returned on board, and the chief dined with us, liaving brought with him a liui,^ ready dressed. After dinr.r we received a jrreat number of presents as peace-offerin'zs. Two chiefs brouy:ht each of them a pig", a dojf, and some yonniir plantain trees, and with due ceivMUoiiy presented them singly to the captain. Another br'Mi' blood, and said The whole of t with remarkab of Oedidee was and the houses Alter we had < |«hip. In our v ""ages, each two AND ROUND THE WORLD 2^7 liindlegs. The hog was kept in this posi- tion for ten minutes, before lie was dead. 4ii oven, which wa-a close by, was heated. They laid the hoj? on the fire as soon as he >vas dead, and singed filf* his hair ; he was then carried to the sea-side and washed. The carcase was then laid on clean green leaves, that it might be opened. They first took out the lard, and laid it on a green leaf, the entrails were then taken out and tarried away in a basket ; the blood was put into a large leaf. The hog was then washed quite clean, and several hot stones were put into his body ; it was then placed in the oven on his belly, the lard and fat were put in a vessel, with two or three Iiot itones, and placed along-side the hog; the blood was tied up in a leaf, with a hot stone and put into the oven ; they covered tl>e vvliole with leaves, on which were placed the remainder of the hot stones; they after- wards threw a great deal of rubbish in, and covered the whole with earlh. A table was spread with green leaves, while the hog was baking, which took up little more than two hours. We sat down at one end of the table, and the natives, who dined with us, at the other; the fat and blood were placed before them, and the hog before us. We thought the pork exceeding good in- deed, and every part of it was well done. The natives chiefly dined of the fat and blood, and said it was very good victuals. The whole of this cookery was conducted with remarkable cleanliness. This estate of Oedidee was small, but very pleasant ; and the houses formed a pretty village. After we had dined, we returned to the ?hip. In our way we saw four wooden Mnages, each two feet long. They stood on a shelf, had a large piece of cloth round the middle, a turban on their heads, stuck with cock's feathers. They toJd us these were their servant's gods. On Tuesday the J31st, the people hearing that we intended sailing, brought abund-^ ance of fruit on board, which continued on the 1st of June. We were informed that two ships had arrived at Hnaheine. The person who brought the information de- scrilted the persons of Capt. Furneaux and Mr. Banks so well, that we had no donbt of the truth of the assertion; we therefore thought of sending a boat over tiiere, but a man came on board, and der'lared thf whole to be a lye- We could not confront the fellow who brought the intelligence, for he was gone away, and the danger of sending the boat was put a stop to. On Saturday the 4th, of June, the chief and his family came on board to take leave bringing a handsome present with them. These people denied that there were any ships at liuaheine. We were very much importuned to return to this place; when we told them we could not, their grief was bitter, and we believed it to be real. They desired Capt. Cook to acquaint them with his burial place, and satd they would be buried with him. A strong proof of affec- tion and attachment. We left Oedidee here, as we could not promise that more ships would be sent from England to those Islands : he left us with infinite regret, Oedidee did not leave us till we were out of the harbour, and staid to fire some guns, it being his Majesty's birth day. This youth was of a gentle docile, humane dis- position, and would have been a better specimen of the natives than Oiniab. ■■II -P fp ii* CHAP. VI. peparlure cfthe Resolution from Ulietea; Incidents at Savage Island; Instance ^ the ferocity nj the natives; Description of this Island; Passage from hertce to Rotterdam; Remarkable tnaum actions at this place, and the insolence of the natives ; An account of the people in Turtle Jsland • One called by the natives Ambrym, discovered; Transactions while here, and ferocious behaviour of the inhabitants ; A particular description of these people ; The Resolution continues her course from Port Sandwich; Passes Three-hill and Shepherd's Islands; Steers in a direction for Sandwich Island, in order to discover the Southern extremity of the Archipelago ; Hostile behaviour of the natives of Sandwich Isle, and of several Islands, particularly Tanna, and Erro~ mango ; An account of a Volcano ; Citaracter of Paowavg a great chief; A description oj if,( country, ^c; Departure of the Resolution from the Island o/ Tanna: The natives described' Arrives at Errumango; T^ie western coast of the New Hebrides explored ; More new Inlands descovered ; Inhabitants and country about Cape Colnett described ; T'tu: Island of Pines disco- vered, with an account of these and other trees. rilHE day after we left Ulietea we saw land, which proved to be a low Is- land discovered by Capt. Wallis, and called by liim Howe Island. We saw land again on the 16th, which we called Palmerston Island, in honour of lord Palmerston, one of the lords of the Admiralty. On the 20th, we discovered land a<2;ain, and inhabitants appearing upon the shore ; we equipped two boats, and as we approached, the mha- bitants retired into the woods. When we landed, we took post on a high rock, to pre- vent a surprise, and the botanising party began collecting plants, with which the country seemed covered. Capt. Cook took two men with him and entered the woods, but on hearing the inhabitants apprr>ach they returned. We made every friendly sign in our power, but were aa^wercd by menaces ; and one of the natives threw a stone, which struck ope of our party. Two muskets were fired indiscriminately, and they all retreated into the woods. Havina: ftn barked, we proceeded along the coast till we came to a place wliere four canoes lay. In order to prevent being surprised, and to secure a retreat, the men were drawn up upon a rock, from whence they havere vain and delusive; for we only got a small quantity of water, and about half a dozen cocoa-nuts. They parted freely with their arrows, but we could not purchase of thera any bows without a great fleal of tiiffic:tlty, They did not seem to set the least value upon any thing we presented ttieru widi, nor did they like we should nro(x^«d farther than the beach, and seemea very desirotis of mir returning on board : this we did after we had cat down some wood, and they ?.!! retire In th ing a from some ately they I Cook some ' blanci saw a ral pig Mallic PaooiK but wi peoj)le came o us und< ber oi' c their ex ed us, a thievish The and ill- plexion, neads a features baboon : strong ar except a women Their painted round th their chi J)etticoat they gen Here <»n ear-rings hent oir( rings mat "hite stoi the bridg for that p ♦heir heai fokens ot bows, arr« "nJjke al and speak country t\ot reuiar, fi AND ROUND THE WORLD 301 t he fltlOt \i\ to they n, by over eaped come rd the as the ok tor undei' go on •efresh- vant of. ivindred irs, and Capt. retired into diiferent parts of the country, and a bitch, they having none on the Is- In fiie afternoon we observed a man bring* land, and as they seemed very fond of them* in"- along the buoy, tvhich had been taken we doubt not but they will take"- care to from the kedge anchor ; and when we sent preserve them. The harbour is a very good some of our crew ashore for it, he immedi- one, and we named it Port Sandwich. ately delivered it. This was the only thing Contiiniing our course from hence, on tlie they had attempted to take from us. Capt. 2'jHh, of July we discovered several small Cook and Mr. Forster went to exaipine Islands, one of which we came very near, some of their houses, which bore a resera- It is about twelve miles in circumference, blaiice to those on the other Isles. They and has throe high , peaked hills upon it. saw a great number of fine yams, and seve- We therefore named it Three Hill Island, ral pigs and fowls. They called this Fslaud We then passed a group of small Islands, MahfcoliB, another near it Apee, and a third which we called Shepherd's Isles, in honour paoom. We went in search of fresh water, of Dr. Shephenl of Cambridge. We dis- but without success. The curiosity of these ceraed people in every one of these Islands ; people was soon satisfied, for none of them but there were no soundings near them at came on board the ship. When they saw one hundred and eighty tathoms. We found us under sail, they came oif to us in a nuui- the srmthern lands to consist of one large bar of canoes, and gave us many proofs of Island, the extremities of which we could their extreme honesty, which rather surpris- not see. On the north side of this extensive ed us, as we had lately been among a most Island we saw three or more smaller ones, thievish race. One of these we called Montague, anotiiei* The i)eople of this Island are very ugly Hinchinbrook and the largest Sandwich, in and ill-proportioned, dark in their com- honour of the earl of Sandwich, first lord of plexion, and of a diminutive size. Their the admiralty. Several people came down heads are long, their faces flat, and their as we passed Montague Island, and seemed features very much resemble those of a to invite us in a friendly manner on shore, baboon : then' beards are of a dark colour. We saw soMie likewise on Sandwich Island, strong and bushy. The men go quite naked, the surface whereof appeared very del ight- exoepl a wrapper round their waists. The ful, being agreeably diversified with woods women we saw were as ugly as tlie men. and lawns. As we could not approach it Their faces, heads, and shoulders were at this time, we steered more to the west, as painted red- Some of them had a bag there appeared a bay to run up in that round their shouhlers, in which they carry quarter, and a good shelter from the winds, their children ; and they wear a sort of red But as this was not so much our object as petticoat. We saw but few of them, as to discover the southern extreinitv of the they generally kept at a distance when we Archipelago, we steered E. S. E. which was were on shore. They wear bracelets, and the direction of Sandwich Island. ear-rings made of tortoise-shell, hogs tusks On the 1st, of August, we gained the N. bent circular round the right wrist, and W. side of the Island, and saw several inha- rings made of shells. They run a piece of bitants, who invited us ashore by various white stone, an inch and a half long, through signs. Here we should have anchored, but the bridge of their noses, which are pierced the wind obliged us to alter our enetrated the skin. Having returned after this skirmish was ended on board, the Captain ordered the anchor to be weighed, with a view of proceedinir with the ship to the lajidin?- place. While this was doing, several of the natives appeared on a low rocky point, displaying the two oars which they had taken from us in the late scuffle. We thought they were desirous of returning the oarSj and tnat their manner of behaving AND ROUND THE WORLD 2av might be a token of submission : neverthe- less, that they might understand the effect of our great g;uns, we fired a four pound shot lit them, which, thoujfh it fell short terri- fied them so much, that we saw no more of ihem, and when they went away they left th?- two oars standing up against the bushes. By this time our anchor was at the bow, when a breeze sprung up at N. upon which we se» our sails, and plyed out of tiie bay, for hej*e we could not supply our wants with conveniency, and in case a better place could not be found to the S. we had it in our power at any time to return hither. The natives of this Island are of a middle size, regular features, and pretty well made. They are of a different race from those of Malliculae, as well in their persons, as their language. Their complexions are naturallv dark. ; yet they paint their faces, some with black, and some others with red pigment. Their hair is curly, but somewhat woolly. The women were not* very inviting, being rather ugly* Thev wear a |)etticoat made ofa plant like palm leaves; and the men go in a manner naked, having only a belt and wrapper round their waist. 1 hey live in houses covered with thatch, and their plantations are laid out by line, and fenced round. We saw no canoes in any part of the Island. On Thursday the 4th, of August, at two o'clock P. M. we cleared the bay and steer- ed for the south end of the Island. We dis- covered on the S. W. side of the head a pretty deep bay ; its shores low, and the land appeared very fertile, but being expos- d to the S. E. winds, until better known, we think that on the N. W. side preferable. The promontory or peninsula, which dis- joins these two bays, we named Traitor's Head, from the treacherous behaviour of its inhabitants ; it forms the N. E. point of the Island, and is situated in the latitude of 18 (leir. 43 min. S. and in 169 deg. 28 min. E. longitude. It terminates in a saddle hill, which ntay be seen 16 or 18 leagues off at sea. We continued our course to the S. S. £ when the new Island we had before dis- covered, appeared over the S. E. point of one near us, distant about 10 leagues. Leaving the last, we steered for the east end of the tbrmer, beiny- directed by a great light we saw u|)on it On the 5th, at sun rise wa came in sight of an Island, being high table land, beariiii? E. bv S. and also dis- covered another little low Isle which we had passed in the uigiit. Traitor's Head was still in sight, and the Island to the S. extended from S, 7 deg. W. to S. S7 de^. W. distant four miles. The light seen in the night we now found to have been a vol- cano. A rumbling noise was heard, and it threw up great quantities of smoke and fire. We now steered for the Island ; and disco- vered a small inlet \vltich had the appear* ance of a gomJ harbour. Two armed boats, under the command of Lieut. Cooper, were sent off in order to sound, while the ship stood on and off, to be ready to follow or to afford any assistance that iniglit be required. We observed a number of the natives on the east point of the entrance, also several canoes: and when onr boats entered the harbour they launched some, but came not near. At this time Lieut. Cooper made ti;e signal for anchorage, and we stood in with the ship. The wind having left ns when we were within the entrance, we were obliged to dro|) anchor in four fathoms wa- ter. The boats were now sent out to find a better anchorage ; and while we were thus employed, many of the natives rairie in parties to the sea-side all armed, some swam off to us, others came in ciinoes. At first they seemed afraid of us, and lt at a distance, but by degrees waxed bolder, and at length came under our slern, and made some exchanges. Those in one of the first canoes threw towards us some cocoa-nuts. The Captain went out in a boat, picked them up, and in return gave them several articles. Others were induced by this to come along-side, who behaved in a most insolent manner. They attempted to tear our flag from the staffs would have knocked the rintjs from the rudder, and we had no sooner thrown out the buoy^ of the anchor from the boats than they a<»t hold of them. We fired a few muskets in the air, of which fhey took no notice, but a fonr pounder alarmed them so much, that they iwm JMi^BffBylff'', H^P '•-''KJil -'^w^ ^M^ mm mm S0\ VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, «|ni(ted tlieir oanoes and took to the water. Hilt finding themselves unhurt, they got agrain into their canoes, flourished their weapons, hallooed in defiance, and went ;ts;:aii) to the buoys, but u tew niusquetoon shot soon dispersed them. They all retired iii haste to tlie shore, and we sat down to dinner, unmolested. In the interval of those transactions, an old man, who seemed to be umiciibly disposed, came fttveral times ma small canoe between us and the shore, bringing- oif each time cocoa-nuts and yams, for which he took in exchange whatever we offered him. Another was in the gangway when the great geing us cocoa-nuts, &c. for which they ^id ttot require any 6 thingr iti return, though we toi>k care ther shoiild always have something: but their principal intention seemed to foe, to invite ns ashore. The old man beforv mentioned, came off to us several times, and the Can^ tain, with a view of making him understand that he wanted to establish a frieiHlly inter- course, took his weapons that were in tlie canoe, and threw them overboard, and made him a present of a piece of cloth. He nn- derstood the meaning of this, for we saw him frequently in conversation with his countrymen, to whom he made our request known, going first to one party, then to another, nor did we afterwards see liin, with his weapons, or in a warlike tnaniiei. Soon after a canoe in which were three men, came under our stern, one of whom behaved very outrageously brutidishing liis club, and striking with it the ship's siiie, at last he offered to exchange his weapon for a string of beads, and other trifles; these we sent down to him by a line <>i' which he had no sooner got possession, thnn he made off, without delivering his cIhI'. We were not sorry for this, as it afforded m an opportunity of shewing the people on shone the effect of our fire arms. We there- fore, without hesitation, complimented fjiis fellow with the contents of a fowling piece, loaded with small shot, and when tlie others were out of the reach of musket shot, we fired some musquetoons, or wall pieces at them, which made them take to tlit water. But all this seemed to make very little impression on the people ashore, who began to halloo, and seemingly made a joke of it. Having moored the ship, with Irei broad-side to the landing place, and scarcely musket shot off, we planted our artillery in such a manner as to command the whole harbour, and then embarked with a party of seamen, supported by the marines, and rowed to the landing place, where we ha\e before observed the natives were dr;nvii up in two divisions. The intermediate space between thein was about forty yards in which were laid a few pluntains, two or three roots, amd a yam. Between these and the water, fonr small reeds were stuck upright in the sand in a line at rigiii angles to t( cdulJ not ii some days. iiiid two con invited us to decoy, and ] we had like l!l<:t Isliinl. sioiis to retir not the leas inoiiient was tliree old mei these circui iiieunt to attii hut this we tlieiii must I and we could out some dan better to frighi behaviour, an over the party a minute liad soon returnee The ship wa? fire two or thr disnersed then and marked oi left by a line his ground, v Some nf the ni friendly aspect weapons, but We made sign, tlown, and the we must lay t sides stood un we made to tht ence on their to touch what tlie cocoa-nut t iiuts, but they i exchanging on* we always tuQ compensation, name we n«w i woods, and ma e«l to cut down <'>.iy consented, •j' tlie nuiaJbier. {'own some tre boats, and a fc AND ROUND THE WOULD. 206 Antrles to the shorf» for what purpose we Id not learn. Tliey reinuin^d liere tor days. By thewe the old man stood, iiiui two companions, who by various signs invited us to land, but we thoucht these a some a view of lettingr the natives see what we chiefly w.inted. Thus tar matters were pretty well settled ; we returned on board to dinner, and they all dispersed. In the alternoon n fishing party went out. We «leooy, and looked something like the trap loaded the launch with water, and having ^ve had like to have been caught in at the made three hauls with the seine, caught |a«t Islanl. We made signs for the divi- sions to retire back, but to these they paid not the least regard, their number every moment was augmented, and, except two or tliree old men, not one unarmed. From all tjiese circumstances we concluded they meant to attack us as soon as we landed ; iiiit this we wished to avoid, as many of tliein must have been killed or wounded, ami we could not expect to come off with- out some damage. We tliought it therefore ujiwurds uf three hundred pounds of mullet and other flsh. During this lime not above thirty of the natives apjjeared, among whom was our trusty mend Paowang, who made us a |)resent of a pig, the only one we got at this place. Throughout the night the volcano, which was about Ibnr milts to (he west of us, emitted vast quantities ot" liie and smoke, attended by a violent rumbling noise: this was increased by a heavy shower ot' rain, which fell at this time. The noise better to frighten them into a more peaceable was like that of thunder, or the blowing up behaviour, and therefore a musket was tired of mines ; the flames were seen to rise above over the party on our right, which for about the hills: and the air was loaded with ashea a minute had the desired effect, but they with which every thin|r was covt^red. They ' ' ■' ■ ' I- I - ■ -. resembled a kind of fine sand, or "rather stone ground to powder, and the dust was not a little troublesome to the eyes. On Sunday the 7th, the natives began to assemble again, early in the morning, with their wea|K>ns, as before, but not in, such numbers: notwithstanding this, we landed in order to get water, and cut wood. We soon returned to their daring behaviour. The ship was then ordered, by signal, to fire two or three great guns, which presently dispersed them. W^e immediately landed and marked out the limits on the right and left by a line. Our old friend, who stood his ground, we rewarded with a present, Some wf the natives returned, with a more friendly as|)ect. Many came without their found most uf tiie old people disposed to be weapons, but the greatest part with them. *• * • — ■ We made signs that they should lay them down, and they gave us to understand, that we must lay down ours first. Thus both sides stood untler arms, and the presents we made to the old people had little influ- ence on their conduct. Many were afraid to touch what belonged t»i us, and climbing the cocoa-nut trees, they threw us down the our friends, but the younger being daring and insolent, obliged us to stand to our arms. Mr. Edgecumbe, one of the lieuten- ants who commanded the party, fired, and wounded a man with a swan-shot, rafter which the others behaved better, and when our people embarked they all retired in a peaceable manner. W^hile we were at din-* ner an old man came on board, and aftei nuts, but they seemed to have no notion of having examined several parts of the ship, exchanging one thing for another, though returned to his friends on shore. We were we flUvays took care they should have a now on a tolerable footing with such of the compensation, Wetook the old man (whose natives who lived in the neigh bourhood« name we n«w found to be Taowang) to the who only made their appearance, so that a woods, and made him u«d. rstand we want- sergeant's guard was thought sufficient for ed to ctit down some trees, to which he rea- the protection of the wood and water par- «lily consented, provided fruit trees were not ties. Someof our people had left an axeon *>( i\ie nuittber. At the tJame time we cut the beach, or in the woods, which Paowang down some trees, which we ^^ut into our returned to us; also a few other articles boats, and a few vsmal I casks ot water, with which had been lost through negligence* n 296 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, The natives invited some of our people to g:o home with them, ou condition that they would strip themselves naked as they were ; a proof of their not harliourinR- a design of Yobbiug' thera, whatever other they might have. On the 8th, early in the morning, the launch was sent under the protection of a party of marines in another boat, to take in wood, water, and ballast, when the natives seemed pretty well reconciled to ns. On the 9th, our people were employed about the same business, and Capt. Cook was re- ceived very conrtec rsjy by the natives, though armed, insomuch that there was no longer any occasion to mark out the limits by a line, seeing they observed them with- out this precaution. He prevailed on a young man, named Wha-a-gou to accom- pany him on board, but nothing in the ship seemed to engage his attention. The goats, dogs, and cats, he called by the same name, which in his language signifies hogs. He seemed more fond of a dog and bitch than of any other animals, and we presented him with one of each. He sat down to din- ner with us, but would only just taste our .«.alt pork ; however he eat pretty heartily of yam, and drank a glass of wine. Some of this younij man's fhends were probably doubtful ot his safety, and therefore followed him in a canoe, but on hi» speaking to them out of the cabin window, they went on .shore and soon returned with a cock, some cocoa- nuts, and a sugar cane. After dinner he was conducted ashore loaded with presents. Upon landing, some of his friends took Capt. Cook bv the hand, and, as\ye nncler- stood would have led him to their habita- tions, but on the way, they made a sudden stop, and were unwilling he should proceed. The captain was desired to sit down. Du- ring this interval several of our, gentlemen passe(l us, at wliich they expressed great Uneasiness,, and importuned the Captain so much to €trder them back, that he was obliged to comply. Indeed thev were not only jealous of our going up the country, b^it even along the shore of the harbour. While we were waiting here, our friend Paowang brought us a present of frait and roots, by a party of twenty men, though they might all have been carried by two, perhaps this might be done with the vievv of making the present appear the greater; for one had a bunch of plantains, another a yam, a third a cocoa-nut, &c. The Captain paid these porters, though the present was HI return for one lie had made in the morn- ing. Wha-a-gou and his friends were still for detaining us, and seemed to wait with impatience for something to give us in return for the dogs, but night afiproaching we desired to depart ; and they complied with our solicitations. We now learnt, by means of Mr. Forster's inf(niries, that tli'e proper name of this Islsuid is 1'anna. Tlie natives also told us the names of other neighbouring Isles. That we touched al last is called Erromaufio ; the small one which we saw the mornii.g we landed here Immer ; the table Island to the east disco- vered at the same time, Erranan, or Foo. toona : and one that lies to the S. E. Annat- tom ; all which Islands are to be seen from '1 anna. It is a little remarkable that the natives of this Island were more scrupu- lous in taking any thing from th** sailors, than tho.se of any other nation, and never would touch with their bare hands what was given them, but always received it between green leaves, which they after- wards tied up and carried upon the ends of their clubs ; and if any of our seamen touch- ed their skin, they always rubbed the part with a green leaf. When these people nonius Uay, in which they stick their hair pricker, and likewise tneir slings, with which they throw their javelins: and it is astonishing with what dexterity and force some of them will hit a mark. One of them, in the presence of the fr-st lieutenant, .shot a ii.sh as it «v?am along in the sea, at the distance of twenty six yards, with a bow and arrow, which fish the lieutenant carried on board with the arrow sticking in his body, as a proof of what he had seen performed. But notwithstanding their de- licaey and skill as marksmen, they gave us to understand that they eat one anothei''i riiid one dav ^ the bay, hu(l ui ev/)e(lition to ,• thi»se that reju! ;i inan u jioui iiivitiitioii uiir [ iitMJost disgust. iKitioii (HMild b( flesh Ix'sides Im fiKxl ; but we ciistoni of tiles t!ie Island aboi fowls, veufetabb otour |)cople wt for ha I last, tliej from the crevice ilniw tea ; whici (liscovei-y of sonj of the cliti; beh one place the wa was no bearing ti ther they were jn plunge the wh'ol long therein. T\ who had been i complaints at tii] age, went accomj to one of these sin so hot that th^y c without first p!nii garments to keej from touching the waters was fbum relief. On Wednesday comnaniedby.somi for the first time ii With civil treatmer saw m the course < sion, several fine s.'>?ar-canes, &c. ai lives ni our neigh well reconciled to no marks of disp] shooting parties, several days takii they began again t( '"ff every opportii ^"'s at the guarc Jtrained only by t from proceeding t AND uorNi) Tin: \\okld. 201 find one day when the inhalntaiits tihont \\n.' hay, hud marched t'urth, aniicd, oit an e\|)e(htioii to a distant i)ai'tot' the Ishnid, those that leinained invited us to twist u||ou 11 man uhinn they liad hiubi(|ued, \vhi
  • roceeding to extremity. It is more Q g than probable, however, that an act oi vro- lence on the ])art of our iiitn, might, by a wanton use of their fire-arms, have caused their resentnient ; tor in the alteriioon oi this day, a few boys, having thrown two or three stoiu-s at the wood-cutters, tliey were tired at by tlit; petty olhcers present on duty. Having oc«asion for some large tim- ber to repair the decays «»f the ship, orders had been «;i^cn a few days before, to cut down a tree of vast growth ; and for the convenience of getting it ahoard, to saw it into three pieces. This tree so divided, the natives eyed with pleasure, not suspecting our men intended to carry it oft", but to leave it in coniplimenl to them, as it suited exactly their ideas of constructing just dou- ble the number of canoes. To the cutthig down and sawing the trees the natives made no opposition ; but when they saw the sai- lors employed in rolling down the body of the tree to the water's edge, they could not help looking surly ; and one of'^them, pro- bal)ly more interested than the rest, was frequently seen to off'er his .spear at the labourers, but was restrained for fear of the guard : at lensrth he watched his opportu- nity, and starting from behind a bush, wsis levelling an arrow at the commanding oifi- cer, wlieji he was discovered, and shot dead. The ball tore his arm to pieces, and entered his side. His companitms instant'.y carried off tlie body, and laid it in the wood, where the ship's surgeon went to examine it, but found the man totally deprived ot life. Capt. Coplc was much displeased w ith tlie conduct of these officers, and took mea- sures to ])revent a wanton use of fire-arms for the future. The .ship's coinj>any were now permitted to go, a.shore only by turns, for the preservation of their health ; and the Ca^^tain knowing the natives wanted nothuig .so much as an opportunity to re* venaje the death of their companions, strictly eujoined them never to wolk alone ; nor to stray more than an hundicd yards from the guard. On Thursday the 11th, during the nieht, the volcano was very troublesome, and threw out great quantities of fire an(i smoke, with a most tremendous noise ; auti Jim;' it i I m 298 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOCTH POLE, Kometimes we saw great stones thrown into the air. In several parts of the ha^'bour, plii^'es were found from whence a suIphiH- ous smell issued, and the ground about ihese was very hot. Mr. Forster and his '^)otanizing' party, on one side of the harbour, fell in nith our ftiend Paowanj^'s house. Most of the articles he had received from MS were seen hanging- about the bushes, and trees near liis dweHing. On tike 12lh, the volcano was more furious than ever, and we were much molested with the ashes. Sone of our gentlemen attempted to ascend^ a h'll at some distance, with an intent of observing- the volcano more distinctly ; but they were obliged to retreat precipitately, the ground under them being so hot, that they might as well have walked over an oven : the sniel', too of the air was intolera- bly sulphurous, which was occasioned by a smoke that issuv^d troni the fissures of the earth ; yet in this smoke the natives seek a remedy for cutaneous disorders. Mr. For- .ster observing a man holding a child over the smoke, had the curiosity to inquire the reason, who made him understand, by shew- ing the child's eruptions, that it was trou- bled with the itch. The rain that fell this day was' a mixture of water, sand, and earth ; so that we had, properly speakings showers of mire. The natives pretended to be unwilling that we should (h\s day go tar up ihe cormtty by ourselves, and onered tiieir services to conduct us to the mouth of the volcano. We readily accepted their oife>', but instead of shewing us the way to ihe phice, we found ourselves near the nar- boar before we difcoveved the trick. On Saturday the 13th., Paowang came on board to dine with u,'-. We took this op- portunity of sheving him every part of the tihip, arid a variety of trading aniclts, hoping he might see something that he bked, and so a tratfic be carried on with the natives for refreshments, of which, what we had hitherto obtained, were very trifling. Bat Paowang beiield every thing with the greatest niditlerei.ee, except a wooden sand- box, of vvhicli he took some noi'ce. On the 14th, a party of us endeavoured to ge* a nearer view of the volcano, and took our '9 /out by the way of one of those hot places already mentioned. In the way we dug a hole, into which was put a thermometer of Falirenheit's construction. The mercury rose to an hundred degrees ; but the instru- ment remained in the hole near three minutes without its rising or falling, ^t this place the earth was a kind of white clay, and had a sulphurous smell. It was soft and moist under the surface, uver which was a thin dry crust, having upon it some sulphur and a vitriolic substance tasting like alum. The place etfecled most by the heat, and where we nade the expe- riment, was not above eight or ten yards square. Near this was a fig-tree whioj) seemed to like its situation. We proceeded up the hill throujjh a country entirely cover. ed with plants, shrubs, and trees, insomuch that the bread-fruit, and cocoa-nut trees were in a mawner choked up. Here ami there we met with a few people, a house or two, and some plantations in difl^erent .states, one appeari4)g of long standing; anotlier lately cleared ; and several just ready for planting. The clearing a piece of ground must be a work of much time and labour, seeing their wou.ing tools, though the sauie as those used in the Society Isles, are inte, rior to them ; n(iverthel«Ks their method is judicious, and as expeditious as it well can be. They dig under the roots of the large trees, and there burn thr* branches, plants, and spjall :.hrubs. In some parts, the soil is a rich black mould ; in otiiers t) kind of co.m- post formed of decayed vegetables, and the ashes of the volcano. We now came to a plantation, where we saw a man at woik, who offered to be our guide. We had not walked fur before we came to the j miction of two roads, in one of which stood a man with a sling and stone, which he would not lay down till a musket was pointed at him; he seemed however, determined to dispute the road with us, and partly gain^-d his point, for our guide led us anotlit • .vay. The ot*\er man follow«d, hallooing, as we supposed for a reinforcement,, and indeed, we were presently joined by others of the na- tives, among whov i was a young woman with a club inj her hand. These peopk fniiducted in) 1 11 ted to hour. iJii returned U cuiile refii ]Ji;vii;g aj oiher hills winch seen ting out. ' iiiid just a Mere met h hied as we into the coi liiniing, the ed, and by ( of troil.s. \ tliey broiigh we found tht hie, when i duct by jeah to hianie, if oihI ignoran indeed was h considering- ^ this, iiiigiit i "otwiihstand nmie to inva* enter their p oi)\me } Bid superiority o thereibre be j ^ers.? When Jiito their co form nnfavoui i' He consider ''olh among neighbours. *i-me of onrge Hiese jieople'w |>&.ssion, Mr. F plant hag, ha tfmpted: but "'e office of , oflfers thonghtj "inifora worn "lie of our par tiiptaio down usual, we plain wtion and actio considered him wuiG mean*: th t AND UOIM) THE WOULD- rnnducted us to the brow of ji hill, and iKHUted to u road leading- down to the Iiar- jjour. lint not chousing to take this, we returned to that we hud left, and here our fiii«ie refused to go any fartiier with us. l;:vii;g" ascended another ridjLje, we saw utiier hills between us and the volcano, wiuch seemed as far oir as at our tirst set- ting out. We therefore resolved to return, ;iii(i just as we were about so doin^, we V ere met by twenty or thirty people, assem* bled as we tliought to oppose our advancing into the country, for when they saw us re- luming', tliey sutt'ered us to go on unmolest- ed, and by the way regaled us with a variety of' triiits. What wethd not eat on the spot, tliey brought down the hill with us. Thus we toiind these people courteous and hospita- ble, when not prompted to a contrary con- duct by jealousy ; for which they were not to blauie, if we consider their rude state, niul ignorance of our real design. This indeed was to pay them a friendly vis\t, but considering all the circumstances attending this, might they not reasonably suppose, notwithstanding fair ap|iearances, that we came to invade their country ? Did we not enter their ports, without their daring to o|)|)ose ? Did we not effect a landing by a superiority of our aims? Would they not therefore be jealous of such intruding stran- gers? When we endeavoured to advance into their country they might naturally form unfavourable notions of us ; especially it we consider how often they are at war both among themselves and with their neighbours. We must here observe, that itine of our gentlsmen were of opinion, that these people were addicted to an unnatural passion, Mr. Forster's man, who carried his plant bag, having been once or twir-e at- tempted : but as the carrying of bundles is the ortice of the women of this ronntry, others thought, the natives might mistake him for a woman. This man was to day one of our party, and as he follow etl the Captain down the hill, having his bag as usual, we plainly understood by the conver- sation and actions of the natives, that they considered hiui as a female ; and when by lome mean*: they discovered their mistake, 3 they exclaimed, with much surprise, Eira- mange ' Erramange ! It is a man! it is a man ? Every one now ptrceived, and v\as well assured, they had before mistaken bis sex; and hence it is plain, how liable v\e are to form false conjectures and opinions of a j)eople, with whose language we aif not much acquainted : for had we not now been undeceived, it is not to be donbltd but that these people would have l)(<-n charged with the odious practice of wbicli they had through ignorance been suspected. In the evening, a party of us ag- in walk- ed into the country on the other side of the harbour, where we met from the natives, among whom was Paowang, friendly treat- ment. They discovered a readiness to oblige us in every thing in their power. We entered the village we had visited on the 9th, instant, containing about twenty houses, built like the roof of our thatched dwellings in El gland, with the walls taken away, and open at both ends; but others are partly closed with reeds, and all were covered with palm thatch. Some are forty feet long, and sixteen in breadth. Besides these, we saw other mean hovels. One of these was separated from the others by a reed fence, and we understood a corpse was deposited therein. At one end of the hut hung a basket, with a piece of roasted yam, and some leaves quite fresh. We had a strong inclination to see the inside, but the man peremptorily refused our reqii*^'J. lie would neither remove the mats with wlii<;li one end of the hut was closed up, nor saii'er us to do it ; and shewed an unwillingness to permit us to look into the baske . He had two or three locks of human hair tied by a string round his neck, and a woman present had several about her neck. We would have purchased them, but they gave us to nnderstaiid by signs, tlmt they were a part of the hair of the deceased, and on that account they could not part with ihem. This custom is similar to tli t among the natives of Otaheite a u! New Zealand, tlie tbriner make Taman of the hair of their departed friends, and the latter ear-nngs and necklaces of their teelh. Not far from most of the large houses, tbe stems of four li, ' ||f'\ W m •4' t ! ■) 1^!' m) V^OYAGE TOWARDS TIUZ SOUTH POLK, cocoa-iiul trees were fixed upright in llie ground, in a square, about three feet from each other, for the purpose of hanging cocoa- iints to dry. Near most of them is also a large tree or two, whose branches afford an agreeable retreat from the heat of the scorch- ing snn. This part of the Island is well cultivated, abounding with plantains, roots, and fruit trees. One of our people weighed a yam which exceeded fifty nve pounds. Tfie trees too are of an extraordinary size: but a wide circle in the interior part of the Island, discovered nothing to the eye but a dreary waste, covered with cinders, and tainting the air with sulphur. Other sur- rounding Islands looked pleasant to the eye ; but according to the report of the natives of Tanna, abounding in nothing of wkicii they themselves could want. . On Monday the 15t!i, preparations were continued on board to set sail, the ship was smoked above and bolow : the hold fresh stowed ; the ballast shifted ; the woodi.ig and watering were finished ; the rigging .setting up ; and a ie\t hands only were on shore making broon the canes are planted as thick as possible. On tlie 16th, we found our tiller very much damaged, and by neglect, we had not a vpare one aboard. We knew of but one tree in the neighbourhood that would dc for our purpose. The carpenter Mas sent ashore to examine it, and upon his report a piJrty c f men were directed to cut it down, after the consent of the natives }'ad been obtained. They did not make ihe least, objection, and our men went m- 4 stantly to work. Much time was necessary to cut it down, as the tree was large ; and before they had fini?;hed their work, worij was brought to the Captain, that our friend Paowang was not pleast^d. Paowaiig wa? sent for, and om* necessity explained to him. We then made him a present of a piece of cloth and a dog, which readily ob- tained his consent, and the voices of thosi^ who were with him in our favour. Havino thus obtained our point, we conducted our friend on board tu dinner; after whfch we went with him ashore to pay a visit to an old chief, who was said to be the king o the Island ; though as Paowang took little notice of him, we doubted the fact. His name was Geogy. He had a cheerful open countenance, t'.iough he was old, and wore round his waist a broad red and white ci , quered belt. His son was with hmi, y/ criuld not be less than fifty years old. At this time a great concourse of people from distant parts were assembled near the wa- tering place. The behaviour of many was friendly; of otliers daring and insoit-it; whicli we did not thnik prudent to resf in as oiu' str was nearly at an end. ' On Wednesday, the 17th, Old Geon and his son, with several of his friends' dined with us on board the ship, every part of which they viewed with uncommoii at- tention and surprise. They made a hearty dinner on a pudding made of plantains and greens ; but would hardjy taste our salt beef and pork. In the afternoon they were conducted ashore by the Captain, after lie had nresented them with a hatchet, soiiie medals and a spike nail. On the 18th, the Captain and Mr. Forster tried, with Fah- renheit's thermometer, when the tide was out, the heat of one of the hot spring!?, and where the water bubbUd out of the sand from under the rock, at the S. W. corner of the harbour the mercu'y rose to 2V2 de?. It is an opinion with philosophers, that volciinos must be on the summits of the highest hills; yet, this volcano is not on the highest part of the ridge, but on the S. L. side of It ; and some of the hills on this Island ttre more than double the height of that on which the volcano is, and close tc it ^or is it moist weal in its erupl selves with reasoning ( men of m( Jay in this prepared fc ed ; but th< guard and j to bring ofl which we h went with t of the nati ' Jandin^-pla< were distrib » 'ere getting the centry p natives, an* cause, fired the natives h the limits, to upon being o e<'. The tell )' man had h f I lilt he app I'ut this had bravado, to prepared eqi Cook was hij" rash conduct with the utmc off, we observ Captvi« wen «f":; {V>r t. the Pir . iTjs , aiiti .; 1- het hody bj t'e hroken. Whs '•lore affectinj, 'lie bow was t 'lini. The na consternation, liiirniu which i hey all retire hnner, and '^ noon, aruo On Saturday vourable for j for during the' AND ROUND THE WOKLD. vl^H Jifor is it less remafkable, that in wet or inoist weather, the volcano is more violent in its eruptions. We must here content our- seWes with stating facts: the philosophical reasoning on these |)hibnomena, we leave to men of more abilities, whose talents uay lay in this line. On Friday the IJJth, we preoared for sailing, as the tiller was finish- ed; but the wind being unfavourable, the guard and a party of men were sent ashore, to bring off the remainder of the tree from which we had cut the tiller. The Captain went with them, and found a good number of the natives collected together near the landing-place, among whom various articles were distributed. At the time our people \'ere getting S'jme large logs into the boat, the Gentry presented his piece at one of the natives, and, without the least apparent cause, fired at, and killed him. A few of the natives had just before advanced within the limits, to see what we were about, but upon being ordered back, they readily obey- ed. Tlie fellow of a centry p»-etended, that !• man had laid his arrow across his bow, so tiiut he apprehended himself in danger ; liut this had been frequently done, out of a bravado, to shew they were armed, and prepared e(jually with ourselves. Capt. Cook was highly exasperated at this rascal's rash conduct ; and most of tiiC people fled with the utmost precipitation. As they ran otif, we observed one man to fall ; and the Captain went with the surgeon, who was ser: ior h^ the man, whom they found ex- pir lA His left arm was much shattered, aiiti ■; 1' l/ence the ball hiu5 entered his body bj 1' e short ribs, one of which '.vas broiien. VVhat rendered this iiicideut the more affecting was, that the man who bent the bow was n' ♦ shot, but one who stood by him. The natives were thrown into such consternation, that they brought abundance ohrnit, which they laid down at our feel. They all retired when we returned aboard ; linner, and only a few appeared in the i:V»^"noon, among whom were Paowang and Vvb.}-a-gou. On Saturday the 20th, the wind was fa- vourable for getting out of the harbour ; for during the night it had veered round to «> the S. E. At four o'<;!i)ck A. M. we there, fore began to unmoor, and, having weiglied our anchoi, put t9 sea* As we sailed we heard a noise, not unlike fisalm .singing. It was now too late to inquire into the cause; probably the natives were performing some religious acts. We thought that the east l)ointofthe harbour was sacred to leliirion, for some of our people had attempted to go to this point, and were prevented by the natives. They were always jeaious ol our ftroceeding into the country beyond certain iraits: they might be aj)prehensive of an invasion, and that we meant to take tiieir country from them. All we can say is. tijat no part of our cond'ict justified such a con- elusion. We never gave them the least mo- lestation ; nor did we touch any part of their property, not even their wood and water, without having Hrst obtained their consent. Eyi^n the cocoa-nuts hanging over the heads of the workmen, were as safe as those in the middle at' the Island. We caught a large quantity of fish, and were tolerably well supplied by the natives with fi nit and roots; and should certainly have obtained more refre.shments, had we had any thing m board that suited their taste. Our cloth was of no use to tho.se who go naked, and they had not anv knowledge of the utility of iron. Though the people of this Island, after feeling the effects of the European fire-arms, were peaceable, they were not in g^eneral friendly ; nor were they like the Indians in the Society Isles, fond of iron : tfiey wished for .some of the tools with which they saw our seamen cut down wood; but, exce[>t an adze or two, they never attempted to steal any thing. The coopers left their casks during the night unguarded ; nor were they under any appre- hensions about their clothes, which they suffered to lie carele.s.sly here and there while they were at work. These people dis- covered none of that disposition to thievery which it has been said every Indian in- herits naturally. In their course of trade, they totally disregarded beads and baublesi and seemed to prefer Rotterdam fish hooks, and turtle-shell, to every thing else that wa.^ olfered theui. They wouhl not permit the vl f'->jf|I^D ijffl rJ^^H mM .'30> VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, Si«ilors to have any cominnnications with their wives ; nor where they easily persuad- ed to part with their arms on any account. The produce of the Island they freely part- ed with, nor requiring any thins" in return ; but on whatever was bestowed labour in the construction, they set a high value. This Island ofTanna produces abundance of plantains, cocoa-nuts, bread fruit, yams, a kind of potatoe, a fruit like a nectarine, wild Higs, su^ar-cane, and a fruit not unlike an orange, bnt which is never eaten. The bread fruit, cocoa-nuts, and plantains, are neither so plentiful, nor so good, as at Ota- heite ; but sugar-canes, and yams are ^of superior quality, and much larger. We saw here a few fowls, and a great nun.', of hogs, but the latter did not fall toour lo; and we did not see in all our excursions any other domestic animals. We met with some small birds, with a most beautiful plumage, which we had never seen before. Our botanists found many curious plants and trees ; as great a variety as at any Is- land we had visited. The inhabitants api)ear to subsist chiefly on the productions of the land, and are not much indebted to the sea, though there are plenty of fish on the coast. We never found any fishing tackle among them, nor saw any one out a fishing, except on the shoals, or along the shores of the harbour, where they would .strike with a dart such fish as came within their reach, and in this art they were very expert. They were surprized at our method of catching fish with the seine, and, we believe, were not well pleased with our suc- cess. The small Isle of Jmnierwas chiefly inhabited by fishermen, and the canoes we «aw pass to and from the Isle, and the east point of the harbotu', we observed were fishing canoes, I'liese were of unequal sizes, and composed of several pieces of wood clumsily sewed together. The joints are covered on the outside by a thin batten champered oft' at the edges, over which the bandages pass. The sail is latteen, extend- ed to a yard and boom, and hoisted to a short mast. Some of the large canoes have two sails, and all of them out-riggers. They a^e navigated either by paddles or sails. Q These people have little resenihlanfe n affinity lo those of the Friendly IsluiiOs, and those of Mallicollo, except in ijjtir hair which is much like what the people of the latter Island have. The coloms me black and brown, growing to a tolerable length and curly. They part it into snuill locks, which they curl round with the riud of a slender plant, down to about an inch of the ends. Each of these locks is somewhat thicker than the common whip-cord ; and they appear like a parcel of small stiinus hanging down from the crowns of their heads. Then* beards are generally shon, strong and bushy. The women wear tiieir hair cropped, as do the boys, till they «p. roach manhood. We took some pains to discover how far their geographical knowledge extended, and found it not to exceed the limits of their horizon. To Erronan we may ascrihe one of the two languages tliey speak, which is nearly, if not exactly, the same asthatsjjoke at the Friendlv Islands. It is therelore ?robable, that by a long intercourse with 'anna, and the other neighbouring Islands, each hath learnt the other's language, whicli they speak indiscriminately. The other language which the people ofTanna, Erro- mango, and Annatom speak, is properly their own. It is different from any we had before met with, and bears no affinity to that of Mallicollo ; from whence we con- elude, that the natives of these Islands are a distinct nation of themselves. Mallicollo, Apee, &c. were names unknown to them; they even knew nothing of Sandwich Iv land, which is much the nearer. These people are rather slender nidde, and of (lie middle size. They have agreeable coiui- tenances, good features, and are very ac- tive and nimble, like the other tropii al in. habitants. The females are put to all iaho- rious work ; and the men walk unconre: lu i! by their side, when they are loaears fly ; their qnivering motion as they stick in the ground ; the warriors meditating their aim, when they are going to throw; and their shaking them in their liand, or brandishing them, as they advance to the attack, &c." As to the religion and government of these fieople we are little acquainted with the ast, and to the first are ntter strangers. Chiefs they seem to have among them ; at least some were announced to ns as such, but they appeared to have very little autho- rity over the rest of the people. Old Geogy was the only one to whom we saw a parti- cular respect paid ; but whether this was owing to his rank or age, we cannot sar. On many occasions we have seen the old men respected and obeyed. Paowang was so, yet we never heard him called chief, nor could we perceive he had any more jwwer than his neighbours, and we may «ay the same of every other person in our neigh- bourhood. The Resolution being the first ship that ever !?* ?red this harbour, Capt. Cook nam- ed it Port Resolution. It is situated on the north side of the most eastern point of the Island, and about E. N. E. from the vol- cano, in latitude 19 deg. 32 min. 25 sec. and half south, and in Wi) deg. A4 min. 3b sec. east longitude. It is but a small creek, running in S. by W. half W. three quarters of a mile, and is about half that in breadth. The (tenth of water in the harbour is about six to three fathoms, the bottom, sand and mud. The landing place is exceeding con- venient for taking'in wood and water, both of these necessary articles being near the shore. After the water had been a few days on board it stunk, but turned sweet again ; and when at the worst the tin ma- chine would, in a tew hours, recover a whole cask. We now stretched, with a freSh gale, to the eastward, in order to have a nearer vie*i/ of Erronam. Having passed this Is- land at midnight, we tacked, and on Sun- day the *21st, steered S. W. intending togpt to the south of Tanna, and nearer Ann**. tom ; for though the morning was clear, we had made no discovery of any Islands to the east. At noon, in latitude 20 deg. 3S. min. 30 sec. Port Resolution bore liorth, 86 deg. west, distant about 18 miles : Tanna extended from south, 88 deg. W. to N. 64 deg. VV. Traitors Head north 58 deg. \V. distant 60 miles ; the Island of Erronam. north, 86 deg. E. distant 15 miles; and An- natom from S, half E. to S. half W. distant 30 miles. At two o'clock P. M. seeing no more land ahead of us, we bore up round the S. E. end of Tanna, and ran along the south coast at one league from shore. It seemed to be a bold one unguarded by rocks, and the country made a fine appes»rance,' full SRS fertile as that in the vicinity of the harbour. At six o'clock we saw over the west end of Tanna, in the direction of north 16 deg. W . the high land of Erromango. We passed the Island at eight, and shaped our course for Sandwich Isle, in order to complete our observations on that, and of the Isles to the N. W. At tour o'clock P. M. we approached the S. E. end. We found it to trend in the direction of W, N. W. In the middle of this range, very near the shore, we discovered three or four small Isles, behind which appeared a safe anchor- age. We continued our run along the coast to its western extremity and then steered N. N. W. from the S. E. end of Mallicollo, On the 23rd, we came in sight of the Isl lands Pa oom, Apee, and Ambrym. The first of these appeared now to be two Is- lands. We continued our course to within half a league of Mallicollo on the S. W. side, vyhich we ranged at that distance. The direction of the land from the S. E. point is W. by S. for about six leagues, and then N. W. bv W. for three leagues, terminating in a high point or head land, in latitude 16 deg. 29 min. to which the name was given of S. W. Cape. The coast is low, indented with creeks, and projecting^ points ; but, probably, these points might be little Isles under shore. One we know to be such, lying between two and three lengues of the v;%pe. A r elbow in t close to the connected agreeably s forests in JM smoke ascei djcation of cwnjacent I populous, on several canoes put shorten sail shin. The S. W. cape, seemed to t two miles fn tion we foun< rain. SO sec. shewed, that At this time E. and the m which we stee had run the h M. and found more to the n extremity aftj enough to the people, who they had mai hauled round north, and spt passage, being lore sun-set. On Wednesc ed nearly to th the N. W. end ^- oO deg. E steered N. by « coast of the n coast appeared "'as composed . most of them c sonthernmost, v was named St. 7 leagues i„ ci ^ ii-- point of ♦'ontMiued our c toast covered ui chaJk. On the AND ROUND THE WORLD. 30& c;,pe. A. round rock, or tslot, which by an on the north side of the Island, and steered elbow in the coast, forms a fine bay, lies west alons^ the low land under it, for the close io the west side, or point of the cape, bluif-head ; beyond which, at sun-rise, we connected with it by breakers. We were saw an elevated coast, stretching to the agreeably surprised with the beauty of the north, as far as N. W. by. W. Having forests in Mallicollo, from whence we saw doubled the head, we perceived the land to ^inoke ascend in various places, a plain in- trend south, a little easterly, and to form a tlication of their being inhabited : the cir- large deep bay, bounded on the west by the ciunjacent land appeared very fertile and above mentioned coast. It was our opinion populous. VV^e observed troops of nalnves and every thing conspired to make us con- on several parts of the shore ; and two elude, that this was the bay of St. Philip canoes put off to us, but as we did not and St. J ago, discovered by Quiros in I6O0. shorten sail, they could not overtake the In order to determine this point, we fttretch- siiii). The most advanced land from the ed over to the west shore, from which we S. W. cape, bore N. W. by N. at which it were 1 league at noon, and in latitude 14 seemed to terminate. At noon we were deg. STi min. »30 sec. S. and in 167 deg. 3 two miles from the coast, and by observa- min. E. At half past four o'clock P. M. tion we found our latitude to be 16 deg. 22 we were only two miles from the west shore, min. 30 sec. S. and our never fftiling watch to which we had been drove by a N. E. shewed, that we were 26 min. W. of it. swell. Here we saw. large bodies of the At this time the S. W. cape bore S. 26 deg. natives collected together. Some ventured E. and the most advanced point of land for off in canoes ; but they took a sudden fright which we steered, bore N. W. by N. We at something, nor could all our signs of had run the length of it by three o'clock P. friendship induce them to come along-side. M. and found the land trending more and Their nakedness was covered with some more to the north. We reached its utinost flag-grass, fastened to a belt, and which extremity after dark, when we vyere near hung down, nearly as low as their knees: enough to the shore to hear the voices of the this was their only covering. Their com- people, who vere assembled round a fire plexion was very dark, and their hair woolly, they had made on the beach. We now or cut short. 1 he calm continued till near hauled round the point, stood again to the eight o'clock, and in the interval of time, north, and spent the night in Bougainville's we were drove into eighty-five fathoms water, passage, being assured of our situation be- so that we were under the apprehensions of lore sun-set. being obliged to anchor on a lee shore in a On Wednesday, the 24th, we had advanc- great depth, and in a gloomy dark night ; ed nearly to the middle of the passage, and but contrary to our expectations oar fears theN. W. end of Mallicollo extended from were removed ; for a breeze sprung up at S. 30 deg. E. to S. 58 deg. W. We now E. S. E. and wlien we had hardly room to steered N. by E. then north along the east veer, the ship came about; our sails filled coast of the northern land. At first this on the starboard tack ; and we (such wtiSi coast appeared continued, but we found it the kind interposition of an invisible agent) was composed of several low woody Isles, stood off N. E. On the 26th, we wer« most of them of small extent, except the about eight miles from the head of the bay soutliernmost, which in honour to the day, that is terminated by a low beach ; behind was named St. Bartholomew. It is near which is an extensive fiat covered with 7 leagues in circumference, and forms the wood, and bounded on each side by a N. E. point of Bougainville's passage. We ridge of mountains. We found our latitude continued our course N. N. W. along a fine at noon to be 15 deg. 5 min. S. and at one coast covered with woods; in some places o'clock, having a breeze at N. by W. we were white patches which we judged to be steered up'to| within two miles of t!.(e head chalk On the 25th, at day break, we were of the bay, Mr. Cooper and Mr. Gilbert Rf vlij ft* Mk^' 5' 'M ' ' oOii 'Hl^ nffikm ".^'i^'iP' ■ ' > ff^" Bf'P' ^IsB'^ *'^S( il||i ^eI-H yf' fflj^^is Pvljft^v?'!^' MM i ^[^1 ■rai^ipP fi ^^1 KMBlffi| . yc|Ew^Mfl 'IBImHPQ^ iSl^^3 lll^i 'kKI^ M6 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, were sent out to sound and reconnoitre, while we stood oft' and on with the ship. By this, time and opportunity were afforded for three sailing canoes to come up, which had been following us. They would not come along-side but advanced near enough to receive such things as were thrown out to them, fastened to a rope. They appeared to be of the same colour as the inhabitants of Mallicollo, but were stouter made, and taller : their beards were frizzled and their hair woolly : yet several circumstances con- curred to make us think they were of ano- ther nation. The numerals, as far as six, they expressed in the language, Anamocha, and called the adjacent lands by the same names. Some had their hair long, tied U|jon the crown of the head, and ornamented with feathers like the New Zealanders. Others wore a white shell tied on their fore- heads. They wore bracelets on their arms, and a belt round their waists. Some were painted with a bla ^ish pigment. They had prongs with them, which looked like instruments to catch fish, and the only arms we saw among them were gigs and darts. Their canoes were most like those of Tanna, and navigated in much the same manner. They gave us the names of such parts as we pointed to; but the name of the (sland we could not get from them. On the re- turn of the boats we were informed by Mr. Cooper and others, that they had landed at the head of the bay, near a fine stream of fresh water. We steered down the bay, being not in want of any thing, and the wind having shifted to S. S. E. Through- out the fore part of the night, on the west- side of the shore, the country was illuminat- ed with fires, from the sea shore to the summit of the mountains. On Saturday the 27th, at day-break, we found ourselves two thirds down the bay, and at noon we were the length of the N, W. point, which bore N. 82 deg. VV. distant five miles ; and by ol)servation our latitude iViis IL dsg. 39 inin. 30 sec. Some of our gentlemen ware doubtful of this being the bay of iSt. Philiii and St. Jago, because no place answered to the port of Vera Cruz ; but the Captain gave very good reasons for a contrary 2 opinion. A port is a very vague term, like many others in geography ; and what Quires calls the port ot" Vera Cruz, might be the whole havtrn or hrirbour, or the anchorage at the head of the bay, which in some places may extenil farther oft" than where our boats landed. The river was probably one of those mentioned by Quiros, and, if we were not deceived, we saw the other. The bay is every where free from danger, and of an unfathomable depth, except near the shores , which are for the most part low. It hath sixty miles sea coast ; eighteen on the east side, which lies in the direction of S. half VV. and N halfE. six at the head; and thirty-six on the west side, the direction of which is S. by E. and N. by W. from the head down to two thirds of its length, and then N. W. by N. to the N. W. point. The two points which form the entrance of the bay, are in the direction of S. 53. deg. E. and N.53 i\eg. \V. distant from each other thirty miles. The bay, as well as the flat land at the head of it, is bounded by a ridge of hills: one to the west is very high, and extends the whole length of the Island. Upon this appeared a luxuriant vegetation wherever the eye turned. Rich plantations adorned the sides of the hills, forests reared their towered heads ; and every valley was watered with a running stream ; but of all the productions of nature, the cocoa-nut trees were the most conspi- cuous. Capt. Cook named the east point ofthe bay Cape Quiros, in memory of its first discoverer. It is in latitude 14 deg. 56 min. S. and in 167 deg. 1«J min. E. lon- gitude. The N. VV. point he named Cape Cumberland, in honour of his royal high- ness the duke. This lies in latitmlie of 14 deg. 38 min. 45 sec. S. and in longitude 166 deg. 49 min. 30 sec. E. It is t'le N. W. extremity of this Archipelago. On the 28th, and 29th, we took every opportunity when the horizon was clear to look out for more land, but none was seen : it i» probable that there is none nearer liian Queen Charlotte's Island, discovered by Capt. Carteret, about 90 leagues N. N. VV. fl^om Cape Cumberland, and the Cn[)tain thought this to be the same with Quii(i leagues, or 375 miles, in tiit direcHon of N. N. \V. half; W. and S. S. E. half E. We shall describe them for tha sake of perspicuity in the following nnmeri. cal order : I. The Peak of the Etoile, as it was nam- ed by M. de Bougainville. Tliis is tlie most northern Isle, and, according to his reckoning, lies N. by W. eight leagues from Aurora, in latitude 14 deg. 29 min. longi- tude 168 deg. 9 min. II. Tierra del Espiritu Santo, which lies farthest north, and was discovered by Quiros in 1606. This is the most western and largest of all the Hebrides. It lies in the direction of N. N. W. half W. and S. S. E. half E. and is 66 miles long, 36 broad, and 180 in circumference. The land is excieed- ing high and mountainous ; and the hills in many parts rise directly from the sea. Every place, except the cliffs, is beautifully juiorn- ed with woods and regular plant ations. The bay of St. Philip and St. Jago, forms an excellent harbour, and we doubt not of there being (^ood bays along the south and east coasts of other smaller Islands. III. MallicoUo is the next considerable Island, extending N. W. and S. E. In this direction it is 54 miles long. Its greatest breadth is at the S. E. which is 24 miles. The N. W. end is 16 miles broad ; and nearer the middle one third of that breadtli. These unequal measurements, particniarly near the centre, are caused by a wide anil pretty deep bay, on the S. W. side. If we may form a judgment of the whole of lliis Island from what we saw of it, we must conclude it is very fertih; and populous. The hills are in the cei.tre of the Ishind, from which the land descsnds, with an easy slope to the sea coast, where it is ratlier low. IV. St. Bartholomew, situated between the S. E. end of Tierra del Espiritu Santo, and the north end of MallicoUo ; the dis- tance between which latter Island an«l St. Bartholomew is eight miles. The middle of it is in latitude 15 deg. 48. min. Be- tween this Island and that of MallicoUo, IS the passage through which M. de Bou painville 1 very little i V. The Espiritu S( from the fo latter three meridian a« latitude 15 proaohes ne 00 miles in its hounds b of the shore except the anchorage h must here c tide, Ambrj Apee, Thre< lie all under 20 min. E. t 14 deg. 51 n 30 sec. VI. Aurorj by E. in wl kngth : but ii exceeds seven fives have th< hilly and ever vn. Whits a half to the s the same leni and lies in the Except such tivated, and m appeared cons with wood. VIII. Ambi the south end leagues and a Island is aboi rather low, ant equal ascent to ed ii to be wel «( smoke whicf of the woods, ii passed under oi ofitwe did not IX. Paoom, I we saw but lit [ayofthislslan height in the fb lent of this anc AND ROUND THE WORLD. sfv painville went? whose tlescriptions have very little pretensions to accnracy. V. The Isleof Lepers is situated between Espiritu Saiito and Aurora, bein^• distant from the Ibriner ei'^ht leagues, and iVoni the latter three. It lies nearlv under the same nieridian as the S. F* end of Mallicollo, in latitude 15 deg-. 22 niin. Its figure ap- proaches nearest to an oval ; and it is near tK) miles in circumference. We determined its bounds by several bearings ; but the lines of the shore were traced ont by inspection, except the N. E. part, where there is an anchorage half a mde from the land. We must here observe, that Aurora, Whitsun- tide, Ambrym, Paoom, and it neijfhbours Apee, Three-hills, and Sandwich Islands, lie all under the same meridian of 167 deg. 20 min. E. extending from the latitude of 14 deg. 61 min. 30 sec. to 17 deg. 53- min. 30 sec. VI. Aurora Island lies N. by W. and S. by E. in which direction it is 33 miles in length ; but in breadth, we think, it scarcely exceeds seven miles, except where the na- tives have their plantations ; its surface is hilly and every wnere covered with wood. VII. Whitsuntide Island, one league and a half to the south of Aurora, of which it is the same length, but somewhat broader ; and lies in the direction of north and south. Exo^pt such parts that seemed to be cul- tivated, and which are pretty numerous, it a|)peared considerably high, and covered with wood. VIII. Ambrym, from the north side to the south end ot" Whitsuntide Island, is two leagues and a half. In circumference this Island is about 17 leagues. The shore is rather low, and the land rises with an un- equal ascent to a high mountain. We judg- ed il to be well inhabited from the quantity of smoke which we perceived to ascend out of the woods, in such parts of the Island as passed under our observation ; for the whole of it we did not see. IX. Paoom, of this and its neighbourhood we saw but little, and therefore can only say of this Island, that it soars up to a great height in the form of a hay-cock . The ex- tent of this and the adjoining Isle (if tiiey are two) do not exceed three or four leagi.cs in any direction ; for the distance between Ambrym and Apee is scarcely five leagues, and they are situated in this space, and east from Port Sandwich, distant about eight leagues. A. Apee. The direction of this Island is about 24 miles N. W. and S. E. and it is not less than 60 miles in circumference. It has a hilly surface, rising to a considera- ble height, and is diversified with woods and Jawns: we s|jeak here only of the west and south parts, for the others we did not see. XI. Shepherd's Isles, which are a cluster of small ones, of different dimensions, in the direction of S. E. and extending ofl from the S. E. |>oint of Apae, about five lengrues. XII. Three-hills. This Island lies four leagues south from the coast of Apee, and is distant 17 leagues, S. E. half S. from Port Sandwich. A reef of rocks, on which the sea continually beats, lies W. by N, five miles from the west point. XIII. Sandwich Island is situated nine leagues, in the direction of south from Three-hills. To the east and west of whick hne are, XIV. Two- hill's Island. XV. The Monument. XVI. Montagu Islands. XVII. Hinchinbrook. XVIII. Two or three small Isles lyingf between Hinchinbrook and Sandwich Is- land, to which they are connected by breakers. Sandwich Island is 75 miles in circumference, and its greatest extent is 30 miles. It lies in the direction of N. W. by W. and S. E. by E. We viewed the N. W. coast of this Island only at a distance. From the south end of Mallicollo, to the N. W. end of Sandwich Isle, the distance, in the direction of S. S. E. is 22 leagues. XIX. Erramango lies in the same direc* tion ; and is situated 18 leagues from Sand- wich Island. It is about 75 miles in cir- cumference. The middle of it is in latitude 18 deg. 54 min. longitude 169 deg. 19 min. E. From the distance we were off when we first saw it, it appeared of a gogti heig^bt* 19 n't; {'fl^H iii *^ .% illO VOYAGE TOWARHS THE SOUTH POLE, XX. Tann.i. This IsUinJ is situated six Ieaj;ues from the south side of Errunmnao, #"Xtendin;; S. E. by S. and N. W. by N. It IS about 'H miles long in that direction, and every where about mne or twelve miles broad. XXI. Annatom. This is the southernmost Island, and lies in latitude 20 deg. 3 min. lontptude 170 deg. 4 min. and 12 leagues from Port Resolution, south 20 deg. E. Its iiurface is hilly, and of a tolerable height; more we cannot say of it. XXII. Immer, which is in the direction of N. by E. half E. four leagues from Port Resolution in Tanna ; and, XXIII. Erronan, or Footoona, east, lies in the same disection, distant 11 leagues. This Island is the most eastern of all the Hebrides, and appeared to be more than five leagues in circumference. It is high, and on the top flat. A small peak, seem- ingly di least expence. Every ship bound to foreign parls is, or may be, supplied upon easy terms, with a sufficient number of good quadrants, proper for mak- ing the solar or lunar observations; and the difference of the price between a good and bad quadrant, can never be an object with an officer. Tlie most expensive article and what is in some measure wecessary, mi order to arrive at the utmost ae'curacy, is « good watch ; but for common use, p where that strict accuracy is not requi this may be dispensed with ; and it is to w observed, that the ordinary way of finding the longitude by a quadrant, is not so diffi. cult but that any man with proper applica- tion, and a little practice, may soon learn to make observations as well as theastronOi mers. Indeed, not any material difference has seldom occurred, between the observa- tions made by Mr. Wales, and those made by the orticers at the same time. Lunar Observations made by Mr. WALES, For ascertaining the longitude of the He- brides, reduced by the watch to Port Sand- wich in Mallicollo, and Port Resolution in Tanna. I. PORT SANDWICH. Mean of lOsetsof observ. before 167" 56'33"» 2 ditto, dt 168 2.37 20 ditto, ,__ 167 52 57 Mean of these means E. long. 167 57 22 II. PORT RESOLUTION. Mean of 20 sets of observ. before 1 69° 37' 35" 5 ditto, at 169 4S.4H 20 ditto, after 169 47 22} Mean of these means 169 44 35 Sew Cafedor and arts of while expk Coolis oph vpon it ; C Jolk Island lay there. ON Sept( we we more was to course io the o'clock, foun and in 165 d< at eight o'clo which at no( W. hy S. di5 M. we were s sto|)j)ed by a ( wteiided fron rotind by the were %e^\\ in t; mine whethei or a cluster of E. seemed to Jiijrh promont Cohiet, after first discoverec tliree canoes . Jhey had com< nieir sails a iiti 'lieni no more Jlie coast exten tolnet, and roi \y}N. We be nfl^ore an ojjen f>f'agoo(J chanj Jii order to har >')«• an eclipse ♦o happen. Wj wl ooats to som same time we sa "earns. All th inein in motion, J'lt parts; but . «s'nng as W2 im CHAP. VII. Sew Caledonia discovered;' Jncidents; The country described; An account of the customs, mauMttt and arti of the natives ; Observations on the coast and some low Islands; Remarkable inddmlB irhile exploring these; 77u' Caledonia ; This in dipt. Coolis opinion, is the largest Island in the Sbuth Pacific Ocean, except IS ew Zealand; Ranarks vpon it ; Continues her voyage to New Zealand ; Observations respecting the discovery oj Nor- folk Island; She arrives at Queen Charlotte's Sound ; An account oJ incidents tvhile Uie ship lay there. out onv hoats thpy were pretty near us; but upon seeing this, they returned, and our boats followed them. We now were cou- vinced, that what we had taken for open* ings in the coast was low land, all connected^ except the western extremity, which, as we afterwards learnt, was an Island, called Ba- la' •«». The boats having made a signal for a channel, we stood in with the ship. The commanding officer of the boats reported,, that there was good anchorage, and that the natives were very civil and obliging. He gave them some medals, and in return, they presented him with some fish. Havinr got within the reef, we hauled up S. half E. for a small low sandy Isle, lying under the shore, being followed by all the canoes. We proceeded up the bay more than two miles, and at length anchored in five fathoms water, the bottoai a fine sand mixed with mud, and we were well sheltered from the wind and sea. At this time the low sandy Isle bore E. by S. distant three quarters of a mile, and from the shore of the main we were one mile. The Island of Balabea bore N. W. by N. and the channel througb which we came north, distant four miles.. A great number of the natives surrounded us before we had well got to anchor, in sixteen or eighteen canoes, without any sort of weapons, and we prevailed upon one boat to come near enough to receive some presents. In return, they tied two fish to the rope, that stunk intolerably. An in-ter- course being thus opened by mutual ex- changes, two of the natives ventured on board the ship, and presently after she was filled with them. Some dined with us* bni fm ON September the ist. being Thursday, we were out of sight of land, and no more was to be seen. We continued our course to the S. W. and on the 3rd, at five o'clock, found ourselves in 19 deg, 49 min. and in 165 deg. E. longitude. On the 4th, at eight o'clock A. M. we discovered land, which at noon extended from S. S. E. to W. by S. distant six leagues. At five P. M. we were six leagues oft' when we were stopped by a calm. At this time the land extended from S. E. by S. to W. by N. round by the S. W. but as some openings were seen in the west, we could not deter- mine whether it was one connected land, or a cluster of Islands. The coast to the S. E. seemed to terminate to the S, E. in a hiifh promontory, which was named Cape Coinet, after one of our midshipmen, wno Jirst discovered this land. We saw two or three canoes under sail, and we thought liiey had come off to us, but they struck their sails a little before sun-set, and we sp a' Jliem no more. On the 5th, we observed file coast extended to the S. E. of Cape Coinet, and round by the S. W. to N. W, by W. We bore down to N. W. and came before an ojjening, that had the appearance ofa good channel. We desired to enter it, in order to have an opportunity of observ- ing an eclipse of the sun, which was soon to happen. We therefore sent out two arm- ed boats to sound the channel ; and at the same time we saw twelve large sailing canoes near us. All th« morning we had observed them in motion, and coming off from difl^er- ent parts; but some were lying on the reef iisliing as wa iml»gined. When we hoisted \1 312 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, they would not eat our salt beef, pork, or pease soup: we happened to have some yams left which they were very fond of. These they called Oobat, a name not unlike Oofee by which they are called at most of th? Islands, except Mallicollo ; nevertheless we found these people spoke a language to "which we were entire strangers. They were quite naked, except the belt and wrapper, which they used as the inhabuants of the other Islands. They had no knowledge of our dogs, cats, and goats, &c. not having even a name for them, but they shewed a remarkable attachment to pieces of red cloth and spike nails. After dinner time, a Earty of us went ashore with two armed oats, and landed amidst a great number of people, who were induced by curiosity alone to see us, for they had not so much as a stick in their hnnds, and received us with great courtesy. They expressed h natural surprise at seeing men and things so new to vhem as we were. Presents were made to such as a man, (who had atfcached himself to Capf. Cook,) pointed out ; but he would not suller tiie Captain to give the women, who stood beliind, any beads or medals. We saw a chief v hose name was Teabooma, who called for -ilence soon after we i .nded. Every person instantly obeyed him, and listened with extraordinary attention. Wfien he had fiui iied his harangue, another spoke, who was no lessrespectlully attended to. Their speeches were comi)osed of short sentences. \Ve thought ourselves to be the subject of theuj, though we could not under- .stand tlr-^'.:. Having by signs inquired for fresh water, some pointed to the east, others to the west ; but our friend undertook to conduct us to it, and for that purpos" em- barked with us. The ground we passed was beautifully cultivated, laid out in seve- ral plantations, and well watered. We rowed near two miles to the east, where we observed the shore to be mostly covered with mangroves. We entered among these by a narrow creek or river, which brought ds to a little straggling village where we were shewn fresh water. Near this spot the land was riclijy adorned with plantations of ■(ujfar-canes, yams, &c. and watered with 8 little rills, conducted by art from the inntn springs, whose source was in the hills. We saw several cocoa-nut trees which had not much fruit on thera, and heard the crowing of cocks, but saw none. Some roots were baking on a fire, in an earthen jar, which would hold six gallons and we did not doubt, but that this was of their own manu- facture. Mr. Forster shot a duck as it flew over our heads, and explained to the Cap- tain's friend how it was killed. He desired to have the duck, and informed his coun- trymen in what manner it was shot. The tide not permitting us to stay longer in the creek, we took leave of these amicable peo- pie, from whom we had nothing to expect but good nature, and the privilege of visit- ing their countiy without molestation, as it was easy to ste these were all they could bestow. Though this did not satisfy our demands, it gave us much ease and satis- faction, for they certainly excelled ai' the natives we had 1. therto met with in friendly civility. On Tuesday, the 6*th, in the morning, hundreds of the natives came to visit us: some swam, and others came in canoes Before ten o'clock our decks, and other parts of the ship, were quite full of them. The captain's friend brought some fruit and a few roots : the rest had with them only their cliibs and darts, which they exchanged readily for nails, pieces of cloth, and other trifli'ig articles. Texabooma came with them, but went out of the ship impercepti- bly, and by that means lost the present that was intended for him. After breakfast lieutenant Pickersgill was sent with two armed boats in search after fresh water, for what was found the preceding day could not conveniently be got on board. Mr. Wales also, and lieutenant Clerk, went to the little Island, to make preparations for observing the eclipse of the sun, which was expected to be in the afternoon. Mr. Pick- ersgill having succeeded, soon returned. The launch was therefore ordered out to complete our water, and the Captain re|)air- ed to the Isle, to assist in the ob.servation. The eclipse came on about one o'clock P. M, We lost the first contact by interveuins ■J .mas, b :u)(l by < instruinei Mr. Clerl place of deg. 17 n the distan and stars, E. The . 11) in. Ml eclipsed I never befo Ti opinion, micromete if so, it is a valuable ii visited the stream, at ] casks were the creek ti rolled, and boat could water. Nej of excel lent not at preset day, about s our butcher. a fall down 1 night. Wei so useful a h respected am ship. On Wedne to take a vii had landed, t be our guides pretty good p ral people, wl a short tiine Prom the sum the sea. in two ilermine the bi does not exce( ^«y lay betwc and the advan ed a serpentin( ni Is were .sev "^ '«y apjjcan villages, inters streams, and ' "•uch improve AND ROUND THE WORLD. '13 ■J.)uns, bill were more fortunate in the end ; and by observations taken with different instruments, by Capt. Cook, Mr. Wales and Mr. Gierke, the latitude of the Isle, at the place of observation, was found to be 20 deg. 17 min. 39 sec. S. The lon|g:itude by the distance of the sun and moon, and moon and stars, 48 sets, 164 deff. 41 min. 21 sec. E. The same by the watch 163 deg. 58 n)in. Mr. Wales measured the quantity eclipsed by Hadley's quadranc, a method never before thought of. The Captain was ri opinion, that it answers the purpose of a micrometer to a great degree of certainty : if so, it is a great addition to the use of this ynliuible instrument. In the evening we visited the watering place, which was a fine stream, at the head of a small creek. The casks were conveyed by a small boat down the creek to the beach, over which they were rolled, and then put into the launch. The boat could enter the creek only at high water. Near this watering plaee was plenty of excellent wood for fuel, an article we did not at present want. In the evening of this day, about seven o'clock, died Simon Monk, our butcher. His death was occasioned by a fall down the fore hatchway, the preceding night. We could not but lament tne loss of so useful a hand, especially as he was well respected and much esteemed on board the ship. On Wednesday, the 7tli, we made a party to take a view of the country. When we had landed, two of the natives undertook to be our guides. We ascended the hills by a pretty good path ; and in the way met seve- ral people, who accompanied us, so that in a short time our train became numerous. From the summit of one of the hills we saw the sea in two places, whereby we could de- termine the breadth of this country, which does not exceed thirty miles. A large val- ley lay between the ridge we were upon, and the advanced hills, through which glid- ed a ser|)entine river, and on ttie side^ oi the hills were several straggling villages. The valley appeared rather romantic, by the villages, interspersed with woods, winding streams, and beautiful plantations, which much improved the scene. The other parts Ss of the Island were mostly rocky and barren. The little soil that is upon the moniiiiiin.'i and high places is burnt op by (he sun ; yet it is coated with coarse grass and plants, and here and there trees and shrubs. There is a great similitude between thiscooutry and New Holland, under the same paraljel of latitude, obvious to every one who had seen both places. We returned by a different road to that we came by, and passed through some of the plantations in the plains, which were laid oik with great judgment, and ap- peared to be well cultivated. All thenations in these seas recruit their land by letting it lay in fallow, but they seem not to have any idea of nanuring it, except by setting fire to the grass with which it is over-run. Having finished our excursion by noon, we returned on board to dinner, with one of our guides with us, whose attention and fidelity were rewarded at a very trifling exnence. la the afteinoon, the Captain's clerk, being' ashore, purchased a fisn which one of the natives had struck. It had a large, long, ugly head, and bore some resemblance to the suurfish. It was ordered for supper, as we bad no suspicion of its being poisonous. Providentially,' the time the draughtsman took up in portraying this fish, made it too late for us to have it dressed : but the Cap- tain, and the two Messrs. Forsters tasted of the liver and row ; and in the middle of the night, they found themselves seized with a weakness and stupor, which affected their whole frame. The Captain had almost lost his sense of feeling, not being able to distin- guish between light and heavy bodies ; a quart not and a feather seemed the same in tis hand. An emetic, and after that a sweat, were taken bjr these gentlemen^ which proved an efficacious remedy. When they rose in the morning, they found one of the pigs dead, who had eaten the entrails ; and when the natives came on board, ami saw the fish hang up, they expressed their abhorrence, signifying it was not wholesome food. It is a little remarkable they did not do this when the fish was to be sold, nor after it was purchased. On the 8tli in the afternoon, Teabooma, the chief, brought a present to the CaptaiO) consisting of a few UH^ .114 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE >ams, and nuqar canes. Tn return for which among other articles, a dog and bitch was sentiiiin, nearly full grown. The dog was red and white, birt the bitch was the colour of an English fox. This was done with the view of stocking the country with this spe- cies of animals. It was some time before Teabooma couH believe the present was intended for hhn ; but when he was con- vinced of this, he sent them immediately away, and seemed lost in excess of joy. On the 9th, lieutenant Pickersgill and Mr. Gil- bert were dispatched in the launch and cutter to explore the coast to the west, which could not be so well effected by the ship, on account of the reefs. A party of men was also sent ashore to cut brooms; but Capt. Cook and Messrs. Forsters were confined aboard, though much better. On the 10th, Mr. Forster was so well recovered as to ^o into the country in search of plants. On Sunday, the 11th, in the evening, the boats returned, and we were informed by the commanding officers, that bavin"* reach- ed an elevation the morning they had set «ut, they had from thence a view of the coast ; and both Mr. Gilbert and Mr. Pick- ersgill were of opinion, that there was no passage for the ship to the west. From this place, accompanied by two of the na- tives, they went to Balabea. They were received by Teabi, the chief of the Island, and the people who came in great numbers to see tuem, with strong intimations of friendship. Our people, that they might not be crowded, drew a line between them and the natives, who understood and com- 1)1 ied with the restriction. One of these lad a few cocoa-nuts, which a sailor would have bought, but the man being unwilling to part with them, walked off, and, being followed by the sailor, he sat down on the sand, made a circle round him, as he had seen our people do, and signified that the other was not to come with in it, and the in- junction was strictly observed. This excur- sion to Balabea was rather a fruitless one ; for they did not reach the Isle till near sun- set, and left it again before sun-rise, the next morning; and the two following days were spent in getting up to the ship. In going down to the Isle, they saw a great number of turtles, but could not strike any, the wind and sea being rather tempestuous. The cutter sprunk a leak, and suddenly filled with water, so that they were obliged to throw several things r ver-board, to pre. vent her being lost, and by lightening her, to stop the leak. From a fishing canoe they met, they got as much fish as tliey coQld eat. On Monday, the 12th, early in the morn- ing, the carpenter was ordered to repair the cutter. The Captain being desirous of stocking this country with hogs as well as dogs, the formerbeingthemostusefuloftiie two, he took with him in the boat a yoniiff boar and sow, and went up the mangrove creek in search of his friei>d, the chief, in order to give them to him. We were in- formed by the natives, that he lived at some distance but they would send for hitn ; but he not coming as soon as we expected, Capt. Cook, resolved to give them to the first man of consequence he might meet with. In consequence of this determination, they were offered to a grave old man, who shook his head, and made signs for ns to take them into the boat again. On oiir re- fusing to comply, they seemed to ho'd a consultation wnat was to be done. After this, our guide offered to conduct us to \]]% chief, (or Areekee) and he accordingly let! us to a house, where eight or ten middle aged persons were seated in a circle. To these the Captain and his pigs were for- mally introduced. They desired the Ca|i- tain with great courtesy to be seated, who began to expatiate on the merits of his two pigs, explaining to them their nature and use, and how they would multiply : in short he enhanced their value as much as possi- ble, that they might take the more care of them. In return for our present we had six yams brought us, after which we went on board. In the aflernoon we made a trip to the shore, and on a tree near the watering place, an inscription was cut, set. ting forth the ship's name, date, &c, as a memorial and proof that we were the first discoverers of this country. Much the same had been done in other places, we haway, not an inch of ground is lost. Some of the roots are bet- ter tasted than others ; nor are they all of the same colour; but they are all whole- some food. The tops are eaten by the na- tives, and we thought them good greens. The whole family, men, women and children, work in these plantations. Having now fully satisfied our cariosity for the present, we returned on board, when the Captain ordered all the boats to be hoisted in, that v.e might be ready to set sail, and put to sea. Tlie inhabitants of this country are strong, lobust, active, friendly, courteous, ancl not addicted to pilfering, as ail ether nations are in tins sea. They have in general better features than the natives of Tanna, and are a much stouter race ; but in some we saw a resemblance of the negroes, having thick lips, flat noses, and full cheeks. Tiieir hair and beards are black. The former is v€ry rouiih and frizzled ; and frequently wants scratching, for which they have a well con- trived instrument, wearing it always in their rou^h mop heads. It is a kind of comb iratle of sticks of hard wood, from seven to nine inches long, and about the thickness ofa knitting needle. Twenty of these, some- times l^wer, are fastened together at (^tt^. end, parallel to, -and nearly one tenth of an inch from each other. The other ends, that are a little pointed, spread out like the sticks of a fan. Some have their hair tied up in clubs, and others, as well as the wo- men, wear it cropped short. They also wear their beards cropped in the same manner. They are much subiect to swelled and ulcerated legs, particularly the men, as also to a swelling of the scrotum. When they go out in their canoes, and when un- employed, they wear a coarse kind of mat- ting, of their own manufacture, and the men of note have a stiff, cylindrical black cap, which appeared to be a capital orna- ment, and mark of distinction among them. The dress of their women is a short petti- coat, made of the leaves of the plantaia tree, fastened by a cord round their waists. This is at least six inches thick, but not one longer than necessary for the use de- signed. The outer filaments are dyed blacki and the right side is ornamented with pearl oyster-shells. Both sexes are adorned with ear-rings, necklaces, amulets, and bracelet$t made of large shells, which are plac^ above the elbow. Various parts of their bodies are punctured. They appear to be a race b'^tween the natives of 1 anna, and those of .Me Friendly Tslands, and they bear some resemblance to those of ^'ew Zealand ; their language, in some respects, appear to be collected from these ♦hree countries. In honesty and a friend iy disprtsition, they certainly excel all others, 'lowevtr, not- withstanding this, they niusi sunietimes be engaged in war, oth» rwise they would not be so well provided .»s they are, with wea- pons of various sorts. Their clubs are near three feet in length, and iriously formed, some with heads like nawk, others with roundheads. They ai all madevery neatly. Their darts and spears are ornamented with carvings. They take some pains to shape the stones for their slings, which are in the form of an egg, only pointed alifce at both ends. In striking nsh with a dart they are very dextrous, which we believe is the only method they have of catching them, for we saw neither hooks nor line^ ia their possession. Their tools are mucb I .di 316 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, the same as in the other Islands. They build their houses circular, resembling a bee-hive, and full as close and warm ; into which they enter by a square opening, just big enough to admit a man upon his knees. The roof is lofty and brought to a point at top; the side walls are five feet ana a half liigh ; both roof and sides are covered with thatch, made of coar^a long grass. On the top of most of their dwellings is a wooden post, which is generally ornamented either with carving, or shells, or both. Within are platforms for the conveniency of laying any thing on, and in some houses are two floors, one above the other. On the floors dry grass is laid, and mats are spread for the pnncipal people to sleep, or set on. In most of them we found a fire burning, and in some two fire places, but they are very smoky and hot, having no chimney, nor vent for the «pioke but the door ; an atmosphere which to Europeans must be very disagreeable, and as to ourselves we could scarcely endure it a moment ; but with respect to the natives, the smoke is a necessary evil, as it prevents the moschetto from molesting them, and these are very numerous. Their houses are better calculated for a cold than a hot cli- ipate ; and it is owing to their internal heat, that these people are so chilly when in the open air, and without exercise. We often saw them make little fires atdiflferent places, and squat down round them, only to warm themselves. In some particulars their houses are very neat ; for besides the ornaments at top, we saw some with cflrved door-posts. There are not any partitions in them, con- sequently they cannot have any of our ideas that make privacy necessary. They cook their victuals in the open air, without doors ; and the earthen jar, before mentioned, seems to be the only article of their household utensils worth notice. In this they bake their roots and fish. They use three or five stones, in the form of a sugar-loaf, to keep the jars from resting on the fire, and that it may l)urn the better. On these the jars lie inclined on their sides ; and three stones are for one jar, five for two. The stones are fixed in the ground, and their pointed «t)d» are about half a foot above the surface. Water is their only hqnor, and their sub. sistance is on fish, roots, and the bark of a certain tree, which last they roast before they chew it. Some of our people seemed to relish the taste of it, which is sweet and insipid. Their fruit trees do not yield much fruit. Plantains are not in abundance; sugar canes and bread-fruit are very scarce ; and the coco^-nuts are but thinly plantedl Notwithstanding nature has been rather scanty in her favours to the Iskmcl, it is not thinly peopled on the sea coast, and in the valleys that are capable of cultivation. We saw, it is true, great numbers of the natives every day, but we believe they came from all parts on our account. Down the coast, to the west, there are but few inhabitants, but from the east, they came daily in large bodies, over the mountains, to visit us. We must, however, confess, that what parts of this country we saw, are not fit to support many inhabitants, most of these being Dar- ren rocky mountains, the grass growing on which is useless to people who have no cat- tle. The sea, perhaps, may compensate for the sterility of the land. A coat encircled with reefs and shoals, cannot fail of afford- ing a plentiful supply offish. Our botani- cal party did not complain for want of employment. They observed several plants, common to the eastern and northern Is- lands, ; and, among other productions, dis- covered the tree, the bark of which, being easily peeled off, is used in the East-Indies for caulking of ships. The ; bark is soft, white, and nigged ; the wood very hard ; the leaves lon^ and narrow, in colour of a pale dead green, and in smell, a fine aroma- tic. They found also a species of the pas- sion flower, which we are informed has never before been known to grow wild any where but in America. Of the land birds, which are very numerous, we saw several to us unknown, as a kind of turtle doves, very beautiful, many small birds, and one resembling a crow, tho-gh much smaller, and its feathers are tinged with blue. We endeavoured, but in vain, to obtain the name of the whole Island ; but we got the names of several districts, with those of their chiefs Balade was the name of the district we ivere at, is » title most of ( friends, looking glasses, &c. and even a hatchet was not so valuable as a spike nail. Their women here as well as at Tanna, are very chaste, and we never heard, that one of our people ever obtained the least favour from any one of them. Indeed their ladies would sometimes divert themselves by ^oing a little aside with our gentlemen, as if they meant to be kind, and then would in a moment run away laughing at them. These people deposit their dead in the ground. Some of our gentlemen saw a ^rave, resembling one of Roman tumuli, m which, they were informed, lay the remains of a chief slain in battle. Round his gfrave spears, darts, and paddles, were stuck upright in the ground. On Tuesday, the 13th, of^ptember, at sun-rise we weighed, and stood for the sanie diannel we came in by. At half past seven we were in the middle of it, when the Isle of Balabea bore W. N. W. A soon as we were clear of the reef, we bore up along th€ outside of it, . steering N. W. by W. as it trended. At noon the Island of Balabea boreS. by tv. distant about four leagues; and at three o'clock P. M. it bore S. by E, halfE. From this place the reef inclined to the N. and then to N. W. Advancing to N. W. we raised more land, so that Mr. Gilbert was mistaken, and did not see the extremity of the coast. At five this land bore W. by N. half N. distant near seven ieasrues. On the 14th, the reef still trended N. VV. along which we steered, with a light 6 breeze, at E. S. E. At noon we bad lost sight of Balabea, and at three o'clock, we run by a low sandy Isle, the space between which, and thf north-westernmost land was strewed with sljoals. At sun-set, we could but just see the land, which bore S. W. by S. about ten leagues distant. No land wan seen to the westward of this direction ; the reef too trended away W. by N. and from the , mast-head seemed to terminate in a point; so that every appearance flattered our expectations, and induced us to believe^ that we should soon get round the shoals. On the 15th, seeing neither land nor breakers^ we bore away N. W. by W. but the shoals still continuing, we plied up for a clear sea to the S. E. by doing, which, we did but just weather the point of the reef we had passed the preceding evening. To render our situation thf; more dangerous, the wind began to fail us; in the afternoon it fell a calm ; and we were left to the mercy of a great swell, setting directly for the reef, which was not more than a league from us. The pinnace and cutter were hoisted out to tow the ship, but they were of little service. At seven o-cl'ock, a light air at N. N. E. kept her head to the sea ; and on the 16th, at eleven o'clock A. M. we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to S. E. A tide or current had been in our favour all night, and was the cause (under God) of onr getting so unexpectedly clear of the sboalis. On Tuesday the 20th, at noon, Cape Colnet bore N. 78 deg. W. distant six leagues. From hence the land extended round by the S. to E. S. E. till it was lost in the horizon, and the country appeared variegated with many hills and valleys. We stood in shore till sun-set, when we were about three leagues off. Two sma|l Islots I'ay distant from us five miles, and others lay between us and the shore. The country was moun- tainous, and had much the same aspect as about Balabea. On the 21st, we found ourselves about six leagues from the coast. On the 22nd, we stood in for the land, which at noon extended from N, 78 deg. W. to S. 31 deg half E. round by the S. The coast in this last direction seemed to trend more to the S. in a lofty promontory, n % ISlft VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, tvhioli, in lionour of the day, was named Cape Coronation, in latitude 22 deg. 2niin. and in 167 deg. 7 min. 30 sec. E. longitude. On the 23rd, at day-break, a high point appeared in sight, beyond the Cape, which proved to be the S. E. extremity of the coast to wliich we gave the name of Queen Char- lotte's Foreland. It lies in latitude 22 deg. 16 min. S. and in 167 deg. 14 min. E longi- tude. At noon, as we drew near Cape Co- ronation, we saw in a valley to the south a vast number of elevated objects, from .whence a great deal of s;moke kept rising all the day. Capt. Cook was ot opinion these were a singular sort of trees, being as he thought, too numerous to resemble any thing else. Some low land under the Fore- land was entirely covered with them. The wind having veered round to the south, we tacked, and stood off, not thinking it safe to approach the shore in the dark. We stood in again at day-break, on the 24th, and at noon observed in latitude 21 deg. 69 min. 30 sec. Cape Coronation bearing west, southerly, distant seven leagues, and the North Foreland South, 38 deg. W. At sun-set we discovered alow land, lying S. S. E. about seven miles from the Foreland, jsurrounded with shoals and breakers. Sunday the 26th, we stood to S. S. W. with a view of getting rowttd the Foreland, but as we advanced, w« perceived more low Isles, beyond the one already mentioned. "VVe therefore stood to the south, to look for a passa'jre without these. We got a light breeze at seven o'clock, which enabled us to steer out E. S. E. and to spend the night with less anxiety. On the 26th, we stretch- ed to the S. E. for an Island distant six leagues; and on the 27th, we tacked and stood to S. W. with the hopes of weathering it, but we fell two miles short, which oblig- ed us to tack about a noile from the east side of the Island, the extremes l»earing from N. W. by N. to S. W. the hill W. and some low Isles, lying off the 8. E. point, S. by W. These last seemed to be connected with the large Island by breakers. The skirts of this Island were covered with the elevations before mentioned, which had mucii the appearance of tall pines, and 6 therefore the Captain named tlie hh\)i\ from them. The round hill on the S. W side may be seen fourteen leagues otf. Tlijs Isle of Pines is about a mile in cirtMiit, ji, latitude 22 deg. 38. min. S. and in 107 deg. 40 min. E. Having made two altempt, to weather the Island before sun-set, with no better success than before, we stretclied otf till midnight. On the 28th,'at day break we found ourselves several leagues to wind.' ward of the Isle of Pines. The coast froni the S. E. round by the south to the west we saw was strewed with sand banks breakers, and small low Isles. We ranged the outside of these at nearly a league dis, tance, and as we passed some others appear. ed ; so that they seemed to form a chain extending to the Isles that lie off" the Fore, land. In the afternoon we steered N. W. by W. with a fine gale at east, with a view of falling in with the land ; but we discover. ed two low Islots, bearing W. by S. They were connected by breakers, which seemed to join those on our starboard ; on which account we found it necessary to haul off S. W. to get dear of them all. At three o'clock P. M. more breakers appeared^ which from the mast head were seen to ex- tend as far as east south ; and from the smoothness of the sea, we conjectured, that they might also extend to the north-east; so that we were in a manner surrounded with them. Having made a short trip to N. N. E. w€ stood again to the south, and again had the alarming sight of a sea full of shoals, which we coald only clear by returning in the track we came before. We tacked again nearly in the same place, and then anc^iored in a strong gale, in a bottom of fine sand having, a chain 01 breakers to the leeward. We spent the night in making short boards over ths known space we had traversed in the day; but under the uneasy apprehensions of being in the most imminent danger. This was verv evident on the 29th, at day-light which shewed our fears were not ill-fonnd- ed, having had breakers continually nnder our lee, and at a very little distance from us. The people on the forecastle -. 'I lee gangway, saw breakers under the v.. oow, which we s now kept a ship briskl; tial endeav glory to Gc \\/f owed o IJie iiiterpn Capt. Cook dangerous ( first to see \ been tfie si concerning had been ni the discover Vigators. I tant from tli land, mentic instant, we nearest to u! ceived it. wai bonring shoi to anchor t Having haul the reef, we but another a narrow chs rent against less. We tl fathoms wat and having party on she nisti, who fo spruce pines, we were very ter and his ashore, to ci l)est answer c was doing, hearings of tl &o. Thehil 5.9 deg. 30 ml Charlotte's F W. the high low Isles, noi advanced po W. half a FL This point t\u Wuhs's Fori deg. 29 min E. longitude; nor)2on, bv AND ROUND THE WORLD. Qiy ore. ace, in a 01' the the day; of This light una- nder from I lee oo\v» IS whicli we avoided by quickly tacking. We now kept a good look-out and managed the {ihip briskly, but afler all the most pruden- tial endeavours on our part, we must ascribe £,|ory to God, being fblly convinced, that ^vf owed our safety and preservation, to llie interposition of a Diynie Providence. Capt. Cook was now inclined to quit this fli.ngerons coast, but, however he resolved first to see what those trees were, which had been tHe subject of our speculations, and concerning which many contrary opinions had been maintained. Besides, be thought thf discovery mig'ht be useful to future na- vigators. Being now but a few miles dis- tant from the low Islands lying off the Fore- land, mentioned in our journal on the 25th, instant, we bore down to that which was nearest to us. As we approached, we per- ceived it was unconnected with the neigh" bonring shoals, and thought we might get to anchor under its west and lee side. Having hauled therefore round the point of the reef, we attempted to ply to windward ; but another reef to the north, which formed a narrow channel, through which ran a cur- rent against us, rendered this attempt fruit- less. We therefore anchored in thirtj'-tiin^ fathoms water, about a mile from the Island, and having hoisted out the boat, sent a party on shore, accompanied by the bota- nists, who found the trees to be a sort of spruce pines, very proper for spars, of which we were very much in want. The carpen- ter and his crew, after dinner, were sent ashore, to cut down such trees as would best answer our purpose. While this work was doing, Capt. Cook took down the bearings of the several circumjacent lands, &c. The hill on the Isle of Pines bore S. 69 deg. 30 min. E. the low point of Queen Charlotte's Foreland north 14 deg. 30 min. W. the high land above it, seen over two low Isles, north 20 deg. W. and the most advanced point of land to the west, bore W. half a point S. distant se?en leagues. This point the Captain named the Prince of Wales's Foreland. It lies in latitude 22 deg. 29 min . S. and in 166 deg. 57 mirt. E. longitude: when first seen above thie horizon, bv reason of its height, it looks 7 like an Island. The true direction of the eoast from the Foreland to this point, had been ascertained from several bearings. On this small Isle, which is not quite a mile in circumference, grew, besides the pines, a variety of other trees, shrubs, and plants ; and these having sufficiently em- ployed the botanists during our stay, on this account the Captain named the little Island Botany Isle. We saw here several pigeons^ doves, and water-snakes, different from any we had seen ,- likewise a hawk of the same kind as our English fishing hawks. A number of fire-places, and some remains of turtle, were signs of people having lately visited this place. In the sand lay the wreck of a canoe, exactly of the same make as those we had seen at Balade ; and we now were convinced, that of these pines they made their canoes. Some of these trees meas'ired twenty inches in diameter, were s« '.nty feet long, and would have served very well for a foremast, had we wanted one. As trees of so large a size are the produce of so small a spot, it is reasonable to suppose, that larger ones are the growth of the main. This discovery may be valuable to future navigators; for ^xcept New Zealand, we know of no Island in the Pacific ocean, where a ship can be supplied with a mast or yard, where she ever so much distressed for want of one. This was the opinion of our carpenter, who was both mast-maker, and shipwright in Deptford-yard. These trees shoot out their branches smaller and shorter than other jines, so then when wrought for use their cnots disappear. We observed that the argest had ttie shortest branches, and were crowned at the top with a head like a bush. The wood is white, close grained, tough, yet light. Turpentine had oozed out of mo^t of the trees, which the sun had formed into rosin. This was found adhering to the trunks, and laying about the roots.- The seeds are produced in cones. We found here another small tree or -shrub, of the spruce fir kind : also akind o# scurvy-grass, and a plant,-which when boiled', eat like spinnago. The purpose being answered for wHich we landea on this Island^ the !! I ^i i i &:. m-iWmmm If " im m m M 'Uj 320 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, Captain determined not to hazard the ship down to lee-ward, but to try to get to the southward of the shoals. The extent of this S. W. coast had been already pretty well determined ; a more accurate survey might be attended with great risk and many .dan- gers ; it was too late to set up and employ the frame of the little vessel we had on board ; and should the Resolution be hem- med in, we might by that means lose the proper season for getting to the south ; these reasons induced the Captain to make some trips to weather the shoals to the lee-ward of Botaiw Isle. But when this was thought On Friday the 30th, at three o'clock P. M. it fell calm, the swell, assisted by the current, set us fast towards the breakers, %vhich were yet in sight to the S. W. but at ten o'clock a breeze springing up, we steered E. S. E. not ventunng iarth€r south till day light. On Saturday, October the 1st we had a very strong wind at S. S. W. attended by a great sea, so that we had reason to rejoice at having got clear of the shoals before this gale overtook us. We were now obliged 1o stretch to the S, E. and at «oon were out of sight of land. On the 2nd, in the afternoon, we had little ivind, and a great swell ; but* at eleven, a fresh breeze springing up, we stood to the south. We were now in the latitude of 23 deg. 18 min. and in 169 deg. 49 min E. longitude. On the drd, at eight o'clock A. M. we had a strong gale with squalls from the S. W. and the Captain laid aside all thoughts of returning to the land we had left. Nor could such an attempt be thought a pru- dent one, when we consider, that we had a Tast ocean yet to explore to the south ; that the ship was already in want of necessary stores; that summer was approaching very fast, and that any considerable accident mi^ht detain us from pursuing the great object of this voyage another year. Thus necessity compelled us to leave a coast, for the first time, which w« had discovered, but not fully explored. The Cuptain named it New Caledonia^ and in bis opinion, it is, next to New Zealand, the largest Island in the South Pacitic Ocean. The extent is frqm latitude 19 deg. 37 min. to 22 de? 30 min. S. and from longitude 163 del 37 min. to 167 deg. 14 min. E. It lipn nearly N. W. half W. and S. E. half E. and is about 87 leagues long, but its breadth does not any where exceed 10 leagues. It here must be noted, that in the extent given to this Island, is included the broken or unconnected lands to the N. W. On Thursday the 6th, we continued our course to New Zealand, with this view we sailed S. S. E. having a blowing fresh gale, but at noon it fell calm. At this time we found ourselves by observation, in latitude 27 deg. 50 min. S. and in 171 deg. 43 min. E. longitude. During the calm, which coni tinned all this day, the carpenters were employed ia caulking the decks. This was done with varnish of pine, covered with coral sand, as they hadf neither pitch, tar, nor rosin left. The experiment with re^ spect to the cement, far exceeded their ex- pectations. In theafternoon, two albatrosses were shot, which, at this time, we thought equally as good as geese. On the 7th, a breese sprung up, and fixed at S. E. by S. The day following we had a gentle gale, atter. m with fine weather. On the 9th, we were in latitude 28 deg! 25 min. and in 170 deg. 26 min. £. longi^ tude. In the evening, Mr. Cooper struck a porpoise. It was six feet long, and a female, called by naturalists the dolphin of the ancients, and which dilfers from the common porpoise in the head and jaw, which are long and pointed. This had eighty-aight teeth in each jaw. It was first soaked in water, then roasted, broiled and fried. To us who had long subsisted on salt me^t, it was more than palatable ; and we thought the haslet, and lean flesh, a delicious feast. On the 10th, we discovered land, situat- ed in latitude 29 deg. 2 min. 30 sec. S. and in 168 deg. 16 min. E. longitude. Capt. Cook called it Norfolk Island, in honour of the Howard's family, who have the title of the duke of Norfolk. We anchored here I in tweuty-two^ fatnoms water, on a ' I- r <". AND ROUND THE w6n Lw; 321 ti.iiik of corat sand, mixed with broken ^lells. After dinner, a party of ns embark- ed in two boats, and landed on tlie Island behind some lari>e rocks. It was uninha- bited, and we were undoubtedly the first who ever set foot upon it. We observed many trees and plants common to New Zealand, particularly the - ns. hy jumping and dancin^^ in a j'r.uitic maimer; but the men would not sntfer sfune women we saw at a distance to f.ouie near us. We made them presents of iiatchtts and knives, and in return they ^Hve ns a quantity of tish they had just cuuylit. The next morning they brought us more fisli, which they bartered for Ota- heitean c!olh. We asked them on what account they were afraid of us, and also wliat was become of our old friends? To these questions we got no satisfactory an- swers ; but they talked much about killing, which was variously understood by us. On Wednesday the 26th, some of the natives went to the tents, and told our peo- ple, that a ship like ours had lately been lost ; that some of the men landed at Vanna Aroa, near Terrawhitte, on the other side the strait ; that a dispute happened between them and the natives ; that several of ihe latter were shot ; and that the natives got the better of them when they could fire no longer, and both killed and ate them. One of the relaters of this strange tale, said it was twenty or thirty days ago ; but another said it was two moons since, and described, as well as he could, in what manner the ship was beat to pieces. The following day they told the same story to others, which made the Captain, and indeed all of us, very uneasy about the Adventure ; but when the Captain inquired himself, and endeavoured to come at the truth of these reports, the very people *''ho raised them, denied every syllable of what they had said, and seemed wholly ignorant of the matter ; go that we began to think the whole rela- tion had reference only to their own people and boats. On the 28th, we again went on shore, but found no appearance of the hogs and fowls we had left behind. Having been a shooting to the west bay. in our return 2 we got some fish from the natives for a few trifling presents. As we came back, some of the party thought they heard a pig squeak in the woods. We shot this day a good many wild fowl and small birds. On the 31 st, it was somewhat remarkable that all the natives left us. Tuesday, the 1st of November, we were visited by a number of strangers, who canie from up the sound. The principal article of trade Ihey brought with them was green stone, some of which were the largest pieces we had ever seen. On the 3rd, a large black sow was seen by the botanizing party, which we discovered to be the same that Capt. Fumeaux left behind him. Suppose ing it to be a boar, we carried over to Lonjf Island a sow, but seeing our mistake, we brought her back. This incident afforded us some hopes, that this Island in time will be stocked with such useful animals. Lieutenant Pickcrsgill was told the same story by one of the natives, of a ship havinjj been lost, but the man declared though many people were killed, it was not by them. On the 5th, we obtained a seasona- ble and plentiful supply of fish from our old friends. Early in the morning Capt. Cook, accompanied by Mr. Sparrman, and the Messrs. Forsters, embarked in the pin- nace, and proceeded up the sound in order to discover a passage that way out to sea by the S. E. We were met by some fisher- men, who all declared, there was no pas- sage by the bead of the sound; and soon after four men in a canoe concurred in the same opinion, confirming what the others had said, but they gave us to understand, that there was such a passage to the east. We therefore laid aside our first design of going to the head of the sound, and proceed- ed to this arm of the sea, on the S. E. side, which is about five leagues above the Isle of Mortuara. Within the entrance, at a place called Kotieghenooee, we came to a large settlement of the natives. Their chief, Tringo-bohee, and some of his attendants had lately been on board the ship by whom we were received with great civility and these people encouraged us to pursue the object we bad in view. We therefore continued sea, E. N. of several At length \ about a mi tide ran on setting do P. M. this by the flo< and N. W little withii fathoms w; seemed ne< fither to gc having dett fore night, \ necessary ol or strong ho entrance, bu omitted visi made signs f without pa made the beii returned on ing with us which last w of the same i The natives 1 sorts, by thee name for eac On Sunday turned, and t Jents. An ol Capt. Cook { «ve went with a number of hands, in order 3 to catch the sow and put her to boar, but we returned without seeing her. Pedero dined with us, partook heartily of every thing set before him, and drank more wine than any one at table, without being in the least intoxicated. On the 8th, we put a boar, a sow, and two pigs on shore, near Cannibal Cove; so that we hope all our repeated endeavours to stock this country will not prove fruitless. We found a hen's egg a few davs ago, and therefore believt, that some of the cocks and hens we left here are still in being. On the 9th, we un moored, and shifted our station farther out the cove, for the more ready getting to sea ; but at present, the caulkers had not finished the sides of the ship ; and we could not sail till this work was completed. Our friends brought us a large supply of fish and, in return, we gave Pedero a large empt oil jar, with which he seemed highly delig .ted. We never saw any of our pre- sents after they received them, and cannot say whether they gave them away, or what they did with them ; but we observed, every time we visited them, they were as much in want of hatchets, nails, &c. as if we had not bestowed any upon them. Notwith- standing these people are cannibals, they are of a good disposition, and have not a little humanity. We have before observed the inconveniencies attending them for a want of union among themselves; and we are persuaded, though upon the whole very numerous, they are under no form of government. The head of each tribe, or family is respected ; respect inay command obedience ; but we are inclined to think, not one among them has either a right or power to enforce it. Very few, we observed, 5 aid any regard to the words or actions of 'ringo-Dohee, though he was represented to us as a chief of some note. In the after- noon we went into one of the coves ; where, upon landing, we found two families em- ploved in different manners: some were making mats, others were sleeping ; some were roasting fish and roots ; and one girl was employed in heating stones, which she took out ofVthe fire as soon as they were hot, aod gav« tnem to an old woman, whe 324 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, sat in the lint. The old woman placed this operation might be intended as a cnn lliem one upon another, laid over them some for some disorder, to be etiected by {h^ green celery, and over all a coarse mat; steams arising from the green celery, hik] ■he then sqiiatied herself down on the top we perceived the woman , aeemed. very oflheh^ap, and sat very close. Probably sickly. ill <• CHAP. VIII. .,ti. »1 \ IkJi .'/ r 'I Mf, , T/ie Departure of tne Hesotulion from New Zealand; Her passa^te jrom netice to Terra 4t\ Fuego; The run from Cape Deseada to Christmas /Sound; The coast described \ Incidents and transactions in the Sound ; A description of the country ^ and an historical account of the inhabit tants ; The Resolution departs frmn Christmas Sound; Doubles Cape Horn ; Her passage through strait Le Maire, and round Slaten Island ; A harbour in this Isle discovered ; T/te coasts described ; Geographical observations ; llemarks on Islands^ and the animals found \% tJtem, near Staten Land ; Departure from Staten Island ; Nautical observations; The Island 0f Georgia discovered^ and a descriptive account qfthe same. THURSDAY, November 10th, at day- break, we weighed and sailed from Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand, having a fine breeze at W. N. W. All our sails being set, we got round the Two Bro- thers, and stretched for Cape Campbell, at llie S. W. entrance of the strait. W e passed this at four o'clock P. M. distant five leagues, and then steered S. S. E. half E. On the 11th, at seven o'clock P. M. Cape Palliser bore N. half W. distant sixteen leagues, from which Cape, for the third time, we took our departure. Wo. now steered S. by E. in order to g<^t into the la- titude of54or55 deg. Capl. Cook's inten- tion being to cross this vast ocean in these parallels, hoping by this course to pass over those parts, which the preceeding summer, were left unexplored. On the I'ith, A. M. we were in latitude 43 deg. Hi min 30 sec. S. and in 176 deg. 41 min. E. longitude, when we saw an unconinion fish of the whale kind ; and, in the afternoon, the Pintado Peterels began to appear. On the 13th, at seven in the evening, we hauled up towards a fog bank, which we took for land ; after which we steered S. E. by S. and aaw a seal. At noon, by observations 4 i. [(. we found our latitude to be 44 deg. 25 min. S. longitude 177 deg. 31 min. E. On the 14th, we .saw another seal in latitude 45 deg. 54 min. and 17}> deg. 29 n)in E. longi- tude. On the 15th, having passed the great meridian of 180 deg. E. which divides tlie globe into two equal parts, we began to reckon our longitude west of Greenwich. At noon our latitude observed was 49 dejr. 3ii min. longitude, 175 deg. 31 min. W. On Thursday the 17th, we saw a seal, some penguins, and pieces of sea weed. On tlit 19lh, we were in latitude 53 deg. 43 miii. and on the 20th, at noon, in latitude .04 s ^^ On tlie 2Ctli, we wpre in latitude ;>5 detf. 8 tiiiii S. and in 14^ deg. 10 min. W loiiu'itnde. On Sunday, tlie 27tl), ue steered east, liavujj? a steiiHy fresh gale; and at noon Nvere in liitltuJe 55 deg. 6 min. S. and in i;jS -sail broke, whereby the sail was split. The ropes to our square saiU especially, are not of a size and strength sufticjent to wear out the canvass. At noon, we were in latitude 55 deg. 20 min. S. and ii '34 deg. 10 min. W. longitude. On the '20r' the wind abated ; and on the 30th, at A o'clock P. M. the wind veering to N. E. we tacked, and stood to E. S. E. We were now in latitude 55 dec. 22 min. H. and in 128 deg. 45 min. W. longitude. Several albatrosses and pelerels were seen. On Thursday, the 1st of December at three o'clock P. M. it fell a calm, but at about seven, we got a wind at S. E. with which we stood N. E. On the 5th, a fine gale at south, enabled us to steer east, with very little deviation to the north ; and the wind now altering to S. W. and blowing a steady gale, we continued to steer east, in- clining a little to south. At six o'clock in the evening, we were in latitude 53 deg. 8 min. and in 115 deg. 58 min. W. longitude. On (he 0th, we had some snow showers ; and on Wednesday the 7th, a fine pleasant gait, with showers of rain. On the 9th, at noon, we found ourselves by observation, in latitude 53 -deg. 37 min. aiid in 103 deg. 44 min. west longitude. The wind veered now to N. E. and afterwards came insensi- bly round to the south by the E. and S . E. On the 10th; we passed a small bed of sea weed, II d. III latitude 54 deg. longitude 102 de^. 7 min. W. On ti;e lltli, we steered K. half a point N. and on the 12th, at six in the evening, we were in latitude 53 deg. 35 min. longitude })5 deg. 52 min. W. Many and various sorts of albatrosses were hovering about the sl.ip. On Monday, the 12lh, we had a calm which continued till mid-night when a breeze from the south fixing at west we steered east. On the 14th, in the morn- ing, we found the variation of the conipasg to be 13 deg. 2'5 min E. in latitude 53 deg. 25 min. longitude 87 deg. 53 min. W. which increased in such a manner, that on the 15th, in the latitude of 53 deg. 30 min. longitude 82 ihg. 23 min. \V. it was 170 E. This day we saw a penguin ; and on the 10th, a seal, and some diving jielerels. On Saturday the 17tii, the variation increased to 21 deff. 38 min. being in latitude 53 deg. 10 min. S. and in 75 deg. fj njin. west lon- gitude. 4 II this day we steerejl east by north, and cast halfiiorth, under all the sails we could carry, in hopes of seeing the land before T»iglit; but not making it till ten o'clock, we steered east, in order to make suie of falling in with Cape Deseada. At midnight we made the land, extending from N. li by N. to E. by S. about six leagues distant ; upon seeing which we brought to with the ship's head to the south. IdUiving souiuled, we found seventy-five fathoms water, the bottom good. T':e iand before us we concluded to be the west coast of Terra del Fuego, near the west entrance of the straits cf Magliellan. This being the first run nade by Cafit. Cook in a high, southern 'atitude, we have been very parti- cular in noting all the material circumstan- ces we could collect together. In this course the weather had been neither un- usual'y stormy, nor cold. Before we arriv- «*d ill the latitude of 50 deg. the mercury in the thermometer fell gradually from sixty to fifty ; and in the latitude of 55 deg. i*t was generally between forty-.seven and forty- five ; once or twice it fell to forty-three. These observations were made at noon. We had now entirely left the soudjcni Paci6c Ocean, and we trust the worhl will give our Captain some credit for liavijig m 32C VOYAGE TOM AUDS THE SOUTH POLE, well explored the same; nor could, in our opinion, more have been done towards obtaininaf that end, in one voyage, than has been ettected in this. We must not omit to observe, that soon after we left New Zea- land Mr. Wales contrived, and fixed up an instriinient, which measured with great accuracy, the angle the ship rolled in, when sailing large, and in a great sea ; and that in which she lay down, or Iieeled, when sailing upon a wind. The greatest angle he observed the Resolution to roll, the sea at the time not being unusually high was 38 degrees. On Sunday, the I8th, we made sail, anu steered Z. E. by E. along the coast. Near a league from the main is a high ragged Isle, which we called Landfall. At four o'clock. A. M. we were N. and S, of the high land of Cape Deseada, distant nine leagues ; k ut s&w none of the low rocks sy.id to lie cfF it. This cape lies in latitude 53 deg. S. and in 74deg. 40 min. W. longitude. We continued to range the coast, and at eleven o'clock, we passed a frojecting point, having a round surface, and of consi- derable height, to which we gave the name of Cape Gloucester. It has the appearance of an Island, and is situated S. S. E. half £. seventeen leagues from the Isle of Land i\i'!. Be tween these the coast forms two bays, strewed with rocky Islots, rocks, and breakers. The coast appeared unconnected, as if formed of a iuimber of Islands. The land is very inoun :ainous, rocky, and bar- ren, but in some i.laces, covered with tufts of wood, and patches of snow. From Cape Gloucestor, the direction of the coast is nearly S. E. but to Cape Noir, for which we steered, the course is S. S. E. At noon Cape Gloucester bore north, distant eight miles, and the most advanced point of land bore S. E. by S. distant seven leagues. At three o'clock v ° passed Cape Noir, situated ill latitude 54 deg. 30 min. S. and in 73 deg. 33 min. W. longitude. When at a distance, the land of the Cape appeared to be an Island disjoined, but upon a nearer approach we found it connected by a low neck of land. Two rocks lie at (he point of the Cape, the one pointed like a sugar-loaf, the 6 other not so high, with a rounder surface'* and two leagues from the Cape are two rocky Islots, S. by E. After passing these last, we crossed the great bay of St. Barbara, steering E. S. E. The land at the bottom of it, which we just perceived, could not be less than seven leagues ofi. We observ, ed a space in the direction of E. N. E. from Cape Noir, where not any land was to be seen: this may be the channel of St. Bar- bara, which opens into the straits of Mag. hellan, as mentioned by Frazier ; with whose description we found the cape to agree very well. On the']9th, at two o'clock A. M. we passed the S. E. point of the bay of St. Bar- bara, which the Captain caJled Cape Deso- lation, on account of the country near it being the most desolate and burren that ever was seen. It lies in latitude 54 deg. 55 min. U and in 72 deg. 12 min. W. longitude. To the east of the Cape about four leagues, and at the mouth of a deep inlet, is a pretty large Island, and some others less consider* able. In latitude 55 deg. 20 min. S. we were three leagues from an Island, which Capt. Cook named Gilbert Isle, afler his master. Its surface is composed of several unequal peaked rocks, nearly of the same height with the rest of the coast. S, E. of this Isle are breakers, and some smaller Islands. Scarcely any prospect can appear with a more barren and savage aspect, than the whole of this country ; which is com- posed of rocky mountains, without a single trao'e of vegetation to enliven or vary the scene. The mountains of the crfast termi- nate in horrible precipices, whose craggy summits tower to a vast heighi; and those that are inland are covered with snow ; but the former are not. The first wejudged to belong to the main of Terra del Fuego, and the last to be Islands, which to appearance formed a const. Having made a short trip to the south, we stood in for land, the nearest point of which in sight bore east ten leagues. It is a lofty promontory, E. S. E. from Gilbert Isle, in latitude J5 deg. 26 min. S. and in 70 deg. 25 min. W, Ion. gitude. F>ora our present point of view it terminated in two higli tow«rs> and within AND ROUND THE WORLD. ozi them, a hill fsliaped like a sugar loaf. To this rock we gave the name of York Mins- ter. To the westward of this head land, about two leagues, we discovered a lar^e inlet, the west point of which we fetched m with ; and tacked in fortv-one fathoms water, not more than half a league from the shore. To the westward of tnia inlet we saw another, with several Islands at its entrance. . , , On Tuesday the 20th, we perceived the ship to drive off the shore out to sea ; which we attributed to a current ; for by the melt- ing of the snow, the inland waters will occasion a stream to run out of most of these inlets. In the evening, a breeze springing up at E. by 8. we stood in for the land, being' desirous of entering one of the many ports, in order to take a view of the country, and to recruit our stock of wood and water. In standing in for an opening, apparently on the east side of York Minster, we sound- ed in forty and sixty fathoms water. Our last soundings were nearly between the two points that form the entrance to the inlet, which we observed to branch out into two arms. We stood for that to the east, as being clear of Islots ; but upon sounding, foond no bottom with a line of one hun- dred and twenty fathoms. In this disagree- able situation a breeze sprini^ing up, our Captain resolved to stand up the inlet ; but nif?ht approaching, our safety depended on casting anchor, we therefore continued sounding, but always, to our mortification, in an unfathomable depth. We now haul ed nr> under the east-side of the land, and seeing u small cove, sent the boat a-head to sound, while we kept with the ship as near flie shore as possible. The boat soon returned with the information we wished for, and we thought ourselves happy, when we had anchored in thirty fathoms, in a bottom of sand and broken shells. On the '21st, a party was sent out with two hoiits, to look for a more secure station. They foimd a cove above the point under which the ship lay, in which was exceed- ing good anchorage. At the head of it was a stony beach, a valley covered with wood, and a stream of fresh water ; conve- niencies more favourable than we could expect would be found in such, a place. Here also they shot three geese out of four. Orders were now disjnatched by Lieut. Clerke to remove the ship into this place, and we proceeded with Capt. Cook m the other boat farther up the inlet. We now discovered, that the land we were under, which disjoined the two arms, as mentioned before, was an Island, at the north end of which the two channels united. We re- turned on board, and found every thing in readiness to weigh ; which was done, and all the boats sent out to tow the ship round the point ; but a light breeze springing up, we were obliged to drop the anchor again« lest the ship should fall upon the point. However, we soon after gut round this under our stay-sails, and anchored in twenty fathoms water. Wr were now shut in from the sea by the point above men- tioned, which was in one with the extremity of the inlet to the east. Our distance from shore was not more than a third of a mile ; and Islots off the next point above us, co- vered the ship from thv° N. W. from which quarter the wind had the greatest force. All hands were immediately employed ; some to clear u place to fill water ; some to cut wood, and others to pitch a tent, for the reception of a guard, and Mr. Wales could find no better station for his observatory than the top of a rock, not exceeding nine feet over. On Thursday the 22nd, two parties were sent out, one to examine and draw a sketch of the channel, on the other side of the Is- land, and the Captain, attended by the botanists, to survey the northern side of the sound. In our way to this latter place, we landed on the point of a low Isle covered with lierbage, several spots of which had been lately burnt; these, with a hut we discovered, were signs that people were in the neiirhbourhood. From hence we pro- ceeded round the east end of Burnt Island, over to what we supposed to be the main land of T^-rra del Fuego, where we disco* vered a fine harbour, surrounded by high rocks, down which glided many purling streams* and at their feet were some tufir ■;^^■^V•iil|nl it* J ■ ■ 1 wiiiy VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, of lree.% very fit for fuel. Capt, Cook named this harbour the Devil's Bason. It IK divided into two parts, an inner and an (Miter one ; and the communieutiori between them is by a narrow channel five iathoms deep. We found at one time seventeen in the outer biison, and twenty-three in the inner one. This last is shaded from the sun in liis meridian splendor, and, though very secure, is intolerably gloomy. The outer ii.ubour has not so much of this inconve- nience, is equally safe, and rather more omnjodious. It lies about a mile distant from the east end of Burnt Island, in the direction north. We discovered other har- bours to th€ west of this, and found wood for fuel and fresh water, in or near them all. Before one was a stream of frtsh water, ■which came out of a large lake, continually ..^supplied by a falling cascade. The whole country is a barren rock, except the fire wood which grows here, and what we saw of it, affords no other vegetation of any kind. But to compensate for this dreary scene of sterility, about the sea coast, the all-boun- tiful God of nature has scattered many large and small, but fruitful low Islands, the soil of which is a black rotten turf, composed of decayed vegetables. On one of these we saw several huts that had lately been inhabited. Near them was a good deal of celery ; we put as much as we could conveniently stow in our boat, and at seven o'clock in the evening we returned on board. During our absence a fatal accident had befallen one of our marines, who had not been seen since 11 o'clock the preceding night. We supposed he had fallen over- board, and was drowned. In this excur- sion we shot only one duck, three shags, and about the same number of rails or sea- £ies. The other party, among whom were lieutenants, Gierke and Piciv^rsgill, return- ed on board some hours before us. On the west side of the other channel, they disco- yered a large harbour and one smaller, of both which they took sketches. On the 23rd, Lieut. Pickersgill went out to examine the east side of the sound, while the Captain proceeded in the pinnace to the west-side, with a view of going round 8^ the Island under which the ship lay, which he called Shag Island ; and in order to take a survey of the pa.ssage leading to the liar. hours our two lieutenants had disco veitd the day before. If coming from sea it is necessarv to leave all the rocks and Islands, lying orf and within York Minster, on the larboard-side, and the black rock, off tlic south-end of Shag Island, on the starboard. When abreast of the south-end of that Is- land, we hauled over for the west slioie, taking care to avoid the beds of weeds, in- dications of rocks, some of which weru twelve fathoms under water ; but we thoiii>lif it the safest way always to keej) clear of them. The entrance into the large harbour, which we called Port Clerk, is to the north of some low rocks, lying off a point on .Shsg Island. This harbour lies in W. by S. a mile and a half. It hath wood and fresii water, and from twelve to twenty-four fa- thorns deep. To the southward of Port Clerk, seemed lo be another harbour, form- ed by a large Island ; without this, between it and York Minster, the whole sea appear- ed strewed with Islots, rocks, and breakers. At the sputii end of Shag Island the shags breed in vast numbers, in the clifis of the rocks. We shot some of the old Ones, but could not come at the young ones, which are by much the best eating. We likewise brought down three wild geese, a valuable acquisition at this time. We returned and got on board at seven o'clock in the evening. Mr. Pickersgill, who had just before arrived informed us. that the land opposite to our station is an Island; that on another more to the north, he fouiul many terns eggs; and in a cove bttween that and the East Head, he had shot one goose, and got some young goslings. On Saturday the 24th, two sporting' parties went over, one on the N. E. side of the Island above mentioned, which was named Goose Island ; and the other, accom- jmnied by Capt. Cook, went by the S. W. side. When imder the L^land we had plenty of sport, having shot as many geese as served for a Christmas meal for our men, whish proved much more agreeable to them than salt beef and pork. We all AND ROUND THE WORLD. dS9 returned heartily tired ^^by climbing^ ovcf the rocks, when we had landed, in pursuit of our game. In the south of the Island were abundance of geese, it being their moulting season, when most of them come on shore, and are not disposed to Hy. Our party ^ot sixtjj^^-tvvo, and Mr. Pickersgili with his associates fourteen. Plenl; of shags were seen in the cove, but we proceed- ed without spending time or shot upon them. We were informed by our people on board, that a number of natives, m nine canoes, had been along-side, and some of them in the ship : they seemed well acquainted with Eiii'opeanSj and had several of their knives among them. On the 25th, being Christmas day, we hail another visit from them. They appear- ed to be of the same nation, we had formerly seen in Success Bay; and which M. de Buugainville calls Pecharas, because they continually used tins word. They are a diminutive, ugly, half-starved, beardless race almost naked, being only slightly covered with a seal-skin or two joined together, so as to make a cloak, which reached to their knees ; but the greasiest part of them had but one skin, which scarcely covered their shoulders, and all their lower parts were quite naked. The women are clothed no better than the men except tliat they cover their nakedness with a seal skin flap. They are inured from their infancy to cold and hardships, lor we saw two young children at the breast en- tirely naked. They remained all the time ill tlieir canoes, having their bows and ar- rows with them, and har[>0()iis, made of bone, with wliich we imagined, they strike and kill fish. Both they and their clothe^j smelt most intolerably of train oil. We tinew them some biscuit, but they seemed much better pleased with our presents of meilals, knives, &c. Their canoes were made of bark, and on each of them was a fire. They had also large seal hides, which may serve as covering to their huts, on shore in foul weather. They all depart- ed before dinner, nrr ti'd we believe, any one invited them to partake of our Christ- «wis cheer, which consisted of geese, roast V u and boiled, goose-pye, &c. a treat ' little known to us ; and which was heightened by Madeira wine, the only article of our provisions that was mended' by keeping. Perhaps our friends in England did not celebrate Christmas more cheerfully than we did: and, with such fare it would have been a real disappointment to have had our appetites spoiled, by the dirty persons of those filthy people, and by the stench they always carried about them. We called this nlace Christmas Sound, in honour of the day, and the joyful festival we had celebrated here. On the 26th, we were again visited by some of the natives, and as it was very cold in the evening, and they stood shivering on the deck, the Captain from an impulse of humanity, gave them some old canvass and baize for covering. On Tuesday the 27th, every thing on shore was ordered on board. The weather being fine and pleasant a party of us v.ent round by the snoth side of Goose Island, and picked up thirty-one of these kind of birds. On the cast-side of the Island, to the north of the east point, is a good place for ships to lay in that are bound for the west. When we returned on board, we found all the work done, and the launch in, so that we now only waited for a fair wind to put to sea. The entrance of Christmas Sound, which we expected soon to leave, is three leagues wide, and situated in lati- tude 55 deg. 27 min S. and in 70 deg. 16 min. W. longitude ; in the direction of north 37 deg. W. from St. Ildefonso Isles, distant ^en leagues. We think these Isles to be the best land mark for finding the sound. It is adviseable tor no one to anchor very near the shore, for we generally found there a rocky bottom. Tlie refreshments to be procured at this place are wild fowl, very good celery, and plenty of muscles, not large, but well tasted. The geese are smaller than onr English tame ones, but eat as well as the best of them. The gander is air white ; the female spotted with black and white, with a large white spot on each wing. Here is also a kind of duck, whicli our people called the race-horse, on account of its swiftness on the water* for the wings 5.?^« Affile' [' ^'V: fiab VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE. being too>«liort to suppoil: the body in the air, it cannot fly. We believe, from certain circumstancfls, the people do not live here throughout the whole of the winter-season, but retire to parts where the weather is less severe. To appearance, they are the most wretched of all the natives we had seen. They live in an inhospitable clime, and do not seem to have sag^acity enough to provide themselves with the comforts of life, parti- cularly in the article of clothing. Barren as this country is, our botanists found therein many unknown plants. In the woods is the tree which produceth the winter's bark ; also the holly-leaved barberry ; and plenty of berries, which we called cranberry ; with many other sorts common in these straits. On Wednesday the 28tli, we sailed from this sound, with a light breeze at JV. W. At noon Point Nativity, bein^ the east part of the sound, bore N. half W. distant one league and a half We steered S. E. by E. «nd E. S. E. till four o'clock, P. M. when we hauled to the south, for the sake of a nearer view of St. Ildofonso. The coast appeared indented as usual, and at this time we were abreast of an inlet lying E. S. E, At the west point of this are two high peaked hills, and below them, to the east, two round ones, or small Isles, in the direction of N. E. and S. W. from each other. At half past five o'clock, we had a good sight of Ildefonso Isles. These are situated about six leagues from the main, in latitude 55 deg, 53 min. S. and in 69 de^. 41 niin. W. longitude. We now resumed and con- tinued our course to the east. At siin-set the nearest land bore S. E. by E. three fourths E. and the west point of Nassau Bay, discovered by Admiral Ilerinite in 1(524, bore north 80 deg, E. six leagues dis- tant. This point, in some charts, is called False Cape Horn, as being the southern point of Terra del Fuego. It lies in lati- tude 55 deg. 39 min. S. From the above mentioned inlet to this false Cape, the direc- tion of the coast is nearly E. half a point S. distant fourteen or fifteen leagues. On the 29th, at three o'clock A. M. we steered S. E. by S. at four Cape Horn, for wb4i:h we now made sail, bore t^. by S. at 2 a distance it i.^. knr wn by a round high fiil5 over it ; and thougn to the W. N. W. there is a point not unlike this, yet their situntion^ will always be sufficient to distinguish the one from the other. At half past seven we passed this cape, and entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. Two peaked rocks are on the N. W. side of the Cape, resenjblin«' sugar loaves ; also other low straggling rocks to the west, and one south of it. From Christmas Sound to this Cape, the course is E. S. E. one fourth E. distant thirty-one leagues. The rocky point three leagues from Cape Horn, in the direction E. N. E. we called Mistaken Cape. It is the southern point of the easternmost of Hermite Isles. There seemed to be a pas- sage between these two Capes into Nassau Bay. In this passage some Isles were seen, and on the west side, the coast had tlie appearance of forming good bays and har- bours. In some charts Cape Horn is laid down as part of a small Island, which ue had not in our power to confirm or contra- dict, as the hazy weather rendered eveiy object indistinct. From hence we steered E. by N- half N. without the rocks that lie ofl^ Mistaken Cape. Having passed tliese, we steered N. E. half E. and N. E. for Strait le Maire. At eight o'clock in the evening, finding ourselves near the strait, we shorten- ed sail, and hauled the wind. The sugar- loaf on Terra del Fuego bore north 33 dejj. W. the point of Success Bay just 0|)<^n oi the Cape of the same name, bearing north 20 des. E. On the 30th, duriiig the calm, we were driven by the curreql over to Staten Land ; but a light breeze springing up at N. N. W, we stood over for Success Bay. We hoisted our colours, and, having before fired two guns, we perceived a smoke rise out of the woods, made by the natives above the south point of the bay, which was the place where they resided when we were here in 1760. A party was now sent into Success Bay, in order to discover if any traces of the Adventure were to be seen there ; but they returned without having found any. Our ship's name, &c. were written on a card, ana naiied to a tree which stood near th« piftce .iwrjlji would wa J)ut into tl and«d, tl associates clotiied in arms, and people we The brace wrought so and nodou pean. Ace the bay wa we had ol particularly where the \ Having no\ Terra del 1 same by Sta wind veerin stood to S, 1 On Saturt bore u/> for which at hal E. the west e AN0 ROUNP a?HE WORLD. 391 olace ;^)]iere it^'ras likely the Adventure E. distant four leagues. The Island s1ie1ter« would water, should she be behind us, and ed us from the north wind, and Staten Land put iuto this place. AVhen Mr. PicUersgill from the south. The other Isles lny to the land'ed, the natives received him and iiis west, and secured us from the north wind ; associates with great courtesy. They were yet we were not only open to the N. E. ciotii^d in seal skins, had bracelets on their and E. but to theN. W. winds. We might arms, «nd appeared to t)e the siaine kind of have avoided this situation, by anchoring people we had seen in Christmas Sound, more to the west, but the Captain was de- The bracelets were made of silver wire, sirous of being near the Lsland, and of hav« wrought somewhat like the hilt of a sword, ing it in his power to get to sea with any and no doubt, the workmanship of an Euro- wind. In the afternoon a large party of us pean. According to Mr. Pickersgill's report, landed, sorae to kill seals, and others, birds the bay was full of whales and seals, and or fish. Tlie Island was so stocked with we had observed the same in the strait, the former, which made such a continual particularly on the Terra del Fuego side, bleg^ting, that we might .have thought our- where the whales are exceeding numerous, selves in Essex, or any other country where Having now explored the south coast of cows and calves are in abundance. Upon Terra del Fuego, we resolved to do the examination we found these animals dinep» same by Staten Land. Al nine o'clock the ent from seals, though they resembled them wind veering to N. W. we tacked, and in shape and motion. The male having a stood to S. W. great likeness to a lion, we called them on On Saturday the 31st, in the morning, we that account lions. We also found some of bore uji for the east end of Staten Land; the samekind as the New Zealand seals, apd which at half past four bore south 60 deg. these Ave named sea-bears. We shot some E. the west end south 2 deg. E. and Terra of the large ones, not thinking it safe to go del Fuego south 40 deg. W. The weather near them ; though, in general, they were being hazy, we could only now and then so tame, that we knocked some down with get sight of the coast ; but as we advanced our sticks. Here were a few geese and to the east, several Islands were seen of dilcks, and abundance of peiiguins atid unequal extent. We were abreast of the shags ; the Jatter of which had young ones most eastern one at eight o'clock. A. M. almost fledged, consequently just to our when we waited sometime for clear weather: taste. In the evening our party returned but as it did not clear up as we wished, we sufficiently laden with provisions of various hauled round the east end of the Island, sorts. for the sake of anchorage, if ,we should On the 1st, of January, 1775, being Sun- think it necessary. We were now distant day, Mr. Gilbert was sent out to Staten iVom the Isle two miles, and sounding Land, !in search of a good harbour, nothing found only twenty-nine fathoms water. As more being wanting, in the opinion of we continued our course, we saw on this Capt. Cook, to make this place a good Island a great number of seals and birds, a port for ships to touch at for refreshments. strong temptation to our people who were Another party went to bring on board the want of liesh nrovisions ; and in hauling beasts we had killed the preceding day. HI . roui'.d it, we had a strong race ot a current like unbroken water. At length, after fish- iui:;- for the best gronnd, we cast anchor in twenty-one fathoms waier, about a mile from tiie Island, which extended from north IS deg. E. to N. 55 deg. and half W. The The old lions and bears were good for nothing but their blubber, of which we made oil; but the flesh of the young ones we liked very well : even the flesh of the old lionessess was not much amiss ; but that of the males was abominable. Capt. weather having soon after cleared up, we Cook took an observation of the sun's meri- ^ad a sight of Cape St. .John, or the east dian altitude (his height at noon) at the end of Staten Land> bearing south 75 deg, N. £. end of this Island, which dttermined 3 IE: nt ittVl I! „...n.m-i fi PIIIB i^ i^Hw W ||wf:l ' mm' tti«'w%w° ' t^ wttj mm tt^l'^iW H HhISp wk fflHsVS M. HIH 832 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, % »ts latitude at 54 degr. 40 min. 5 sec. S. Havifiy shot a few jjeese, some other birds, and supplied ourselves plentifully with young shacis, we returned on board in the evening'. About ten o'clock the party re- turned from Staten Land, where they found a ^ood port, in the direction of north, a little easterly, from the N. E. end of the !Eastern Island, and distant three leag;ue.s to the westward of Cape St. John. The marks whereby it may be known, are some small Islands lying in the entrance. The channel, which is on the east side of these Islands, iiS half a mile broad. The course is in S. W. by S. turning gradually to W. by S. and W, The harbour is almost two miles long, and near one broad. The bottom is a mixture of mud and sand, and hath in it from ten to fifty fathoms water. Here are several streams of fresh water, with good wood for fuel. On this Island are an innu- merable number of sea-gulls, the air was quite darkened with them, upon being dis- turbed by our people : and when they rose lip, we were almost suffocated with their dung, which they seemed to emit by way of defence; and it stunk worse than what is vulgarly called Devil's-dung. This port was named New- Year's Harbour, from the day on which ft was discovered, and is cer- tainly a very convenient one for shipping, bound to the west, or round Cape Horn. It is true, ships cannot put to sea with an easterly or northerly wiiid ; but these winds are never known to be of long continuance, and those from the south or west quarters are the most prevailing. On Tuesday the 3rd, we weighed and stood for Cape St. John, which in the evening, bore N. by E. distant four miles. This Ca|>e, being the eastern point of Staten Liind, is a rock of considerable height, situated in latitude 54 ^ag. 4(i min S. and in 64deg. 7 min. \V. longitude, having a rocky Islot lying close under the north point of it. .To the westward of the Cape is an inlet, which seemed to communicate with the sea to the south ; and between this and the Cape is a bay. Having dou- bled the Cape, we hauled up along the soufli coast. At noon Cape St. John bore 4 north 20 deg. E. distant about three Teagiies, Capt St. Bartholomew, or the S. W. point of Staten Land, south 83 deg. W. two higli detached rocks north 80 deg. W. By obser- vation our latitude was found to be 54 deg-. 56 min. S. We now judged this land ?<> have been sufficiently explored ; but before we leave it, think it necessary to make a few observations on this and its neigbouring Islands. The S. W. coast of Terra del Fuego, with respect to inlets and Islands, may be com- pared to the coast of Norway; for we he- iieve within the extent of three leagues there is an inlet or harbour, which will re- ceive and shelter the first rate ships ; but, till these are better known, every navigator must, as it were, fish for anchorage : add to this, there are several rocks on the roast; though as none lie far from land, the ap- proach to them may be known by sound- mg, if they cannot he seen ; so that upon the whole, we cannot think this the dangerous coast which has been represented by other voyagers. Staten Land is thirty miles in length, and nearly twelve broad. Its sur- face consists of craggy hills, towering up fo avast height, especially near the west end, and the coast is rocky. The greatest part of the hills, their summits excepted, is covered with trees, shrubs, and herbage. We cannot say any thing, that navigators may depend on, concerning the tides and currents on these coasts ; but we observed that in Strait Le Maire, the southerly tide, or current, begins to act at the new and fnll moon about four o'clock. It may also be of use to our commanders to remark, that if bound round Cape Horn to the west, and not in want of iiny thing that might make it necessary to put into port, in this case, we would advise them not to come near the land ; as by keeping out to sea, they would avoid thecurrents, which, we are convinced, lose their force at twelve leagues from land ; and at a greater distance they would find none to impede the'r course. We would just add to these nautical observations, that all the time of our being upon the coast we had more calms than storms; the winds were variable, nor did we experience any nevere colt thermomet (i<2g. anddu it was gent The Isia may be sa very unlik equal heig or ivrty fee secured by with sword and of gre little hilloc of sea bear retire into paths rende jireeable, fo knees in m is uioist and spot are sea fowls, and ! lion we sav eight or tei of the head, covered witf lion ; the oth liair, like tli both is a dar light dun col the male. 1 shore, and time for eng tlieir young, tliirty temale very desirous self, Ideating tempted to hears are sma larger than a are of an e(j I'lter's, and t iroii-giey. T wolves, and t_ however, diti and North A he called over "f thirds we took them for snow peterels, but they re- semble them only in size and colour. They have a very bad smell, owijig probably to their food being shell-fish and carrion, which they pick n|> along shore. The other sort, almost as big as a heron, resemble nearest curlews. Their plumage is variegated, their bills long and crooked, and their prin- cipal colours arejight grev. All the ani,. mals of this little spot live in perfiMct har- mony, and seem careful not to disturb each other's tranquillity. The sea lions |»osses3 most of the sea- coast ; the bears take up their q^uarters within die Isle: the sliays lodge ju the highest cliffs; the penijuins have their separate abode where there ic S I. 'ii |^:;5-r/ 334 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, the most easy eommunication to and from the sea ; and the other birds have their places of retirement ; yet we have observ- ed them all, with mutual reconcilement, mix together like domestic cattle and poul- try in a farm-yard : nay we have seen the eagles and vullures sittmg tojo^ether among the shags on their hillocks, without the lat- ter, either young or old, being disturbed at their (iresence. It will be remembered, that we left Sta- ten Island on the 3rd, and this day, being Wednesday the 4th, we saw the land again, at three o'clock A. M. and at six o'clock in the afternoon a heavy squall came so suddenly upon us, that it carried away a to})-gal1 ant-mast, a studding-sail boom, and a fore studding-sail. This ended in a heavy shower of rain ; and we now steered S. W. in order to discover the gulph of St. Sebas- tian, if such a coast existed, in which that gulph has been represented, for of this we entertain a doubt; however, this appeared to be the best course to clear it up, and to explore the southern part of this ocean. On the 5tli, by observation, we were in lati- tude 57 deg. 9 min. and 5 deg. 2 min. E. longitude from Cape St. John. On the 6th, at eight o'clock in the evening, we were in latitude 58 deg. 9 min. S. and 53 deg. 14 min. W. the situation nearly assigned for the S. W. point of the gulph of St. Se- bastian ; but seeing no signs of land, we were stijl doubtful of its existence ; and be- ing also fearful that by keeping to the south, we might miss the land said to be discover- ed by La Roche in 1675, and by the ship Lion,; in 1756 ; for these reasons we hauled to the north, in order to get into the parel- lel laid down by Dalrymplf as soon as possible. On the 7th, we were, near mid- night, in the latitude of 56 deg. 4 min. S. longitude 53 deg. 36. min. W. On the 8th, at noon, a bed of sea-weed passed the ship ; and in the afternoon we were in lati- tude 55 deg. 4 rain, longitude 51 deg. 45 rain. On Monday the 9th, we saw a seal, and sea-weed. On the 10th, at two o'clock A. M. we bore away east, and at eight E. N. E. At noon, by observation, we were in latitude 64 deg. 35 min. S. and in 47 deg. 56 min. W. longitude.' We had ttthii time a great number of albatrosses and blue peterels about the ship. We now steered due east: and on the 11th, were in latitude 54 deg. 38 min. longitude 45 deg. 10 min W. On the 12th, being Thursday, we steered east northerly ; andf at noon observ- ed in latitude 54 deg. 28 min. S. and in 42 deg. 8 min. W. longitude, which is near 3 deg. E. of the situation, laid down by Mr. Dalrymple for the N. E. point of the gulph of St. Sebastian ; but we had no other inti. mations of land, than seeing a seal, and a few penguins; and we had a swell from £. S. E. which we think would not have been, had any extensive track of land lay in that direction. On Friday the ISth, we stood to the south till noon, when finding ourselves in latitude 55 deg. 7 min. we stretched to the north. We now saw several penguins, and a snow peterel, which we judged to denote the vicinity of ice. We also found the air much colder'than we had felt it since we left New Zealand. In the night we stood to the N. E, On Saturday the 14th, at two o'clock, P. M. in latitude 53 deg. 56 min. 30 sec. S. and in longitude 39 deg. 24 min. W. we discovered land, in a manner wholly covered with snow. We sounded in one hundred and seventy-five fathoms, muddy bottom. The land bore E. by S. distant twelve leagues. On the 15th, the wind blew in squalls, attended with snow and sleet, and we had a great sea to encounter. At past four P. M. we stood to the S. W. under two courses ; but at mid- night the storm abated, so that we could carry our top-sails double reefed. On the 16th, at four o'clock, A. M. we stood to the east, with a moderate breeze, and at eight saw the land extending from E. bjr N. to N. E. by N. At noon, by observation, we were in latitude 54 deg. 25. min. 30 sec. and in 38 deg. 18 min. ^V. longitude. The land was now about eight leagues distant. It proved to be an Island, and we called it Willis Island, from the name of the person who first discovered it from the mast-head. It is a high rock of no great extent. We bore up to it with a view of eKploring tiie Bortnem c 23 min. W. longitude. Th« other which ])eds. The rocks bordering on the sea were was named Bird Island, a number of ti)wls not covered with snow like the inland parts ; being seen upon the coast, is not so high, and they seemed to contain iron ore. When but more extensive ; aad is near the N. E. the party returned aboard, they brought point of the main land, which Capt. Cook with them a quantity of seals and penguins, named Gape North. We saw several^ Not that^we wanted provisions; but any masses of jmow, or ice, in tiie bottoms of kind of fresh meat was acceptable to the gome bays on the S. E. coast of this land, crew ; and even Capt. Cook acknowledged Jiarticularly in one which lies about three that he was now, for the first time, heartily eagues to the S. S. E. of Bird Isle. On tired of salt diet of every kind ; and that Monday the 16th, having got through the pas- though the flesh of penguins could scarcely sage, we observed the north coast trended E- by be compared to bullock's liver, yet its being*^ N.ferabout three leagues, and then E.and E. fresh was suflicient to make it pnlataible. by S. to Cape Buller, which is eleven miles. The Captain named the buy he had sur- We ranged the coast till i>ear night, at one veyed, Possession Bay ; though according league distance, when OR sounding we found to his account of it, we think it to be. nu' fifty fathoms, and a muddy bottom. On desira,ble appendage to his majesty's new the' I7th, at two o'clock, A. M. we made possessions. It lies in latitude 54 deg. 5. for the land. We now steered along shore min. S. and in 37 deg. 18 min. W. elevem till seven, when, seeing the appearance ot leagues to the east of Cape North. To the an mlef, we hauled in for it. The Captain west of Possession Bay, and between that accompanied by Mr. Forster and othecsr, and Cape Buller, lies the Bay of Isles, so went off in a boat, to reconnoitre the bay called from the number of small Isles lying before and in it. On Tuesday, the 17th, we made sail to the east along the coast : the «lirection of which from Cape Buller, is 7'i deg. ,30 min. E. tor the space of twelve leagues, to a pro- before we ventured in with the ship. They landed in three different places, displayed Our colours, and took possession of the country in his majesty's name. The head^ of the bay was terminated by ice-cliffs of considerable height; pieces of which were jecting point, which was named CapeSaun- continually breaking off, which made a noise like a cannon. Nor were the interior parts of the country less horrible. The savage rocks raised their lofty summits till lost in the clouds, and valleys were cover- ed with seemingly perpetual snow. Not a tree., nor a shrub of any size were to be seen. The only signs of vegetation were a strong bladed grass, growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a plant like moss, seen on the rocks. Sea-bears, or seals, were numerous : the shores swarmed with young cubs. Here were also the largest penguins we had yet seen. Some we brought aboard weighed above thirty pounds. We found the same ders. Beyond this is a pretty large bay, which obtained the name of Cumberland Bay. At the bottom of this, as also in somfe other smaller ones, were vast tracks of frozen ice, or snow, not yet broken loose. Being now just |)ast Cumberland Bay, we hauled off the coast, from whence we were distant about four miles. On tlie 18th, at noon, by observation, we were in latitude 54 deg. 30 min. S. and about three leagues from the coast, which stretched fiom N. 59 deg. W. toS. 13 deg. W. In thi«! direction the land was an Isle, whicl. seemed to be the extremity of the coast to the east. At this time the nearest land was a projertins' Kk . :t:"ft ,€, sea-fowls m at the last Isliind ; also divers, poiut, terminating in a round iiiliock, whiclii 336 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLK, on itccount of tlie day, was called Cape Charlotte ; on the west side of whicli lies a bay, ami it was named Royal Bay, and the west poiivtwe called Cape George. Thisis tlie east point of Cumberland Bay, in the direction ofS. E.byE. from Cape Saunders, distant seven leagues. The Capes Charlotte and George lie in the direction of south STdeg. E. and north 37 deg. W. six leagues dis- tant from each other. The Isle above naen- tioned was named Cooper's after our lieu- tenant. It is in the direction of S. by E. nnd eight leagues from Cape Charlotte. The coast between them forms a large bay, which we named Sandwich Bay. On the 19th, at sun-rise, new land was discovered, which bore S. E. half E. At the first sight it had the appearance of a single hill, in., the form of a sugar-loaf; but soon after, other detached parts were visible above the horizon near the hill. We observed at noon in latitude 54 deg. 42 min. 30 sec. S. A lurking rock that lies off Sandwich Bay, live miles from the land, bore W. half N. (iistaut one mile. In the afternoon we had a view of a ridge of mountains, behind Sand- wich Bay, whose icy tops were elevated high above the clouds. At six o'clock, Cape Charlotte bore north 31 deg. W. and Cooper's Island W. S. W. On Friday the 20th, at two o'clock, A. M . we made sail to tlje S. W. round Cooper's Island, which is one rock considerably high, about five miles in circuit, and one distant from the main. Here the main coast takes a S. W, direction for five leagues to a point, which we called Cape Disappointment, off of which are three small Isles. The most southern one is a league from the Cape, green, low, and flat. From the point as we continued our course S. W. land was seen t > open in the direction of north GO. deg. W. distant beyond it nine leagues. It prov- ed to be an Isle, and was named Pickers- gili [sland. A point of what we had hi- therio supposed to be the main, beyond this Islr.nd, soon after came in sight in the direc- tion of north 55 deg, W. which united the cofist at the very point we had seen, and taken the bearing of, the day we first came Ml with it, and left us not a single doabt. that this land which we had taken for part of a great continent, was no more than an Island, two hundred and ten miles in circuit. We thought it very extraordinary, that an Island between the latitude of 54 and 55 degrees, should in the very heiclit of sanmer, bealmost wholly covered with fro. zen snow, in some places many fathoms deep; but more especially the S.W. coast, Nay,the very sides of the lofty mountains were cased with ice ; butth^ quantify of ice and snow that lay in the valleys is incredible, and tha bottoms of the bays wre bounded with walls of ice ot a 'considerable heiiiht. We are of opinion, that a great deal of tlie ice formed here in winter, is broken off in spring, and floats into the sea ; but we ques tion whethera ten thousandth i)art ofw hat we saw is produced in this Island ; from whence we are led to conclude, that the land we had seen the day before might be. long to a more ■ ensive track ; and we still had hopes of discovering a continent. A$ to our present disappointment, we were not much afiected thereby ; for, were we to judge of the whole bj^ this sample, whatever its extent might be, it would be an acqui- sition scarcely worth notice. This inhospi- table, and dreary land, lies between the latitudes of 53 deg. 57 rain, aiid 54 dee;. 57 min. S. and between 38 deg. 13 min. and 35 deg. 34 min. W. longitude. We named this the Isle of Georgia, in honour of his majesty. It extends S. E. by E. and N. W. by W. and is ninety-three miles long, and about ten broad. Ihe N. E. coast ap- pears to have a number of bays, but the ice must prevent access to them the greatest part of the year ; and at any time tliejr will be dangerous harbours, on account of the continual breaking away of the iceclifls. We are inclined to think, that the interior parts, on account of their elevation, never enjoy heat enough to melt the snow in such quantities as to produce a river ; nor did we find even a stream of fresh water on the whole coast ; and the N. E, side of this, only receives sufficient warmth to melt the snow. We now quitted this coast, and directed our course to the E. S. E. for the land we had seen the preceding day. A AND ROUND THE WORLD. 967 strong; gale^ overtook us, and we thought ourselves very fortunate in havin*,^ got clear of the land oefore this came on. Oil the 'ilst, the stnrui was succeeded by a thick fog, attended with rain ; but hav- jni? ffot a southerly breeze, we stood to the east till three in the afternoon ; and then steered north in search of the land. On the 2'iiid, we tiad thick fotrgy weather; but in tie evening it was so clear, that we couUi see two leagues round us ; and thinking we mi'^lit be to the east of the land, we steered >ve'*t. On the 23rd, a thick fog at six o'clock, A. M- once ntere compelled us to haul th« wind to the south ; but at eleven, we were tavoiired witli a view of three or four rocky Isiots, extending from S. E. to E. N. E. about one league distant ; and this, being the extent of our horizon, might be the reason why we did not see the sugar-loaf peak betbre mentioned. We were well iissmed lliis was the land we had seen be- fi)ip, and which we had now circumnavigat- eil; consisting of only a few detached rocks, the recef)tacles for bircls. Thej are situated in latitude 56 deg. S. twelve leagues from Cooper's Isle, and we named them Clerk's Rocks. Mr. Clerk, one of our lieutenants, having first discovered them. This interval of clear weather was succeeded by as thick a fog as ever, on which we stood to the north. Thus we were continually involved in thick mists, and the shags with frequent sound- ings were our best pilots ; but on the 23rd, we stood a few miles to the north, when we got clear of rocks, out of sounding^s, and saw not any shags. On the 24th, we saw the rocks bearing S. S. W. half W. distant four miles, but we did not still see the sugar-loaf peak. Ai four o'clock P. M. judging ourselves to bethne or four leagues E. and W. of them, we steer- ed south, being quite tired with cruizing in thick fogs, only to have a sight of a few straggling rooks. Having at intervals a clear sky to the west, at seven o'clock w« saw the Isle oi Georgia, bearing W. N. W. distant eight leagues : at eitfht we steered S. E. b> S. and at ten S. E. by E. CHAP. IX The Resolution continues her course ; Newland and Saunder's Isle/, atscovcred ; Conjectures, and some reasons that there may be land about the South Pole ; The Resolution alters her course south to the east ; 'Endeavours to find Cape Circumcision ; Observation on irhat she had done in the voyage ; Proceedings till her arrival at the Cape of Good Hope ; Soils for the Jsie of laynl ; And returns to England; Capt. Furneux's narrative, from the lime the Adrrnlure ivu.$ separated from the Resolution, to her arrival in England, including the report of Liiut. JJur^ ney, concerning thewitimely death of the boat's crew, who were murdered by some oj the nutive$ of Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand. ON Wednesday the 25th, we steered E S. E. We had a fresh gale at N. N. E. but the weather still continued foggy, till towards the evening, at which time it cleared up. On the 26th, we held on our course with a fine gale from the N. N. W. but at day-light, seeing no land to the east, and being in latitude 56 deg. 33 min. S. Xx and in 31 deg. 10 min. W. longitude, we steered south. On the 27th,' at noon, we were in the latitude of 59 deg. 46 miu. S. and had so thick a fog that we could not see a ship's length. We ex|)ected soon to fall in with the ice, and on this ncconnt, it being no longer safe to sail before the wind^ we hauled to the cast with a gentle 938 VOYAGE T0M'4RI>S THE SOUTH POLE, pale at N. N, E, When the foff cleared avvay,.we resumed our courNe to the south : but it'retunied au^aui. which obliged us to haul upon a wind. B> our reckoning we ^ere now in the latitude of 60 deg. S. and unless we discovered some certain sip[ns of soon fulliniyr in with land, the Captain de- termined to make this the limit of his voy- age to the south. Indead it would not have been prudent to have squandered away time in proceeding farther to the south, when there was a great probability of finding a large track of land near Cape Circumcision. Besides it was an irksome task to traverse in high southern latitudes, where nothing was to be discovered but ice. At this time a long hollow swell from the west, indicated that no land was to be ex- pected in such a direction ; and upon the whol€, we may venture to assort, that the •xtensive coast laid down by Mr. Dalryiu- ple, and his Gulph of St. Sebastian, do not exist. The fog liaving receded from us a little, at seven o'clock in the evening, we saw an ice-island, penguins, and snovy pe- terels. In the night, being visited with a ''return of the fog, we were obliged to go ever again that space which we hud, in som*» degree, made ourselves acquainted witl. in the day. I On the 28th, at eight o'clock, A. M. we stood to the east, with a gentle breeze at north. The weather cleared away, and we perceived the sea strewed with larsie and sma'l bocties of ice. Some whales, pen- guins, snow peterels, and other birds were seen. We had now sun-shine, but the air was cold. At noon, by observation, we were in (JO deg. 4 min. S- and in 'J9 deg. 23 niin. W. longitude. At half past l«o fe'cluck, having continued our course to the fast, we suddenly fell ni with a vast num- ber of large ice-islands, and a sea stnwed 5V'th loose ice, and the weather bec<»ining luzy, ni;j(le it dangerous to stand in among tliem. We tlierettuc tacked, and stood back to the west, with the wnid at north. VVe M'tie now surrounded with ice-islaiids, all nearly of an equdl height, with a flat level surtuce , but of various extent. The loo.«e ice, with which the seaapfieared Ktrew ed, had broke frcnn these Isles. On Sunday the 19th. having little wind, we were obliged to traverse in such conr es! as were most likely to carry us clear of them] so that we hardly made any progress, one way or other, throughout the whole day, The weather was fair, but remarkubiy gloomy, and we were visited by pensrnins and whales in abundance. On the 3()t||, we tacked ar.d stood to the N. E. aiul almost throughout the day it was fogi^y, with either sleet or snow, » At noon we were in latitude 59 deg. d() min. S. and in 29 deg. 24 min. W. At two o'clock, na'Jsed one of the largest ice-islands we had seen during our voyage ; and some time after tft'o smaller ones. We now stood to N. E. over a sea strewed with ice. On the 3Ist[ we discovered land a-head, distant ahuiit one league. We hauled the wind to tbe north ; but not being able to weather it, we tacked in one hundred and seventy-five fathoms water, a league fnrni the shore, and about half a one from .soine breakers This land consisted of three rocky Islots of con- siderable height. The iifutost terminated in a lofty peak, like a sugar-loaf, to which we gave the name of Free/eland IVuk, after the man who first discovered it. The latitude is 59 i\*if!;- S. and 27 iies;. W. longi- tude. To the east of this peak, was seen an elevated const, whose snovv-rap'd snni- luita were above the clouds. It extended from N. by E. to E. S E. and we named it Car)e Bristol, in hon(mr of the nolde family of Harvey. Also in latitude 59 t\e'^. ISiriin. 30 sec. S. and in 27 deg. 45 min. W. an- other eh;vated coast appeared in sight, bear ingS. W. by S. at noon, it extended from S. E. to S. S. W. distant from four to eight leagues. This land we called Southern 'i'JMiie, because the most southern that has yet been discovered. Its surface rises high, and is every where covered with snow. '^I'here were those of our company, who thought they saw land in the space between Thule and Cape Bristol. We judged it more than probable that these two lands are cofinected> and the space is a deep bay. vrhich, tl was call t(i weath stood to foar, Fr Iciignes. were left nweU, wli at eight ( we saw C ending in we conh relieved f\ by the sw fiKist in tf)in'se to breeze at On W^i four o'cloc of a new deg. E. ail named it i in latitude deg. 44 mil to the nort in several j concluded We wish it determined pradence v nor to vent which havf ed out. Ot on this coas tice. 'it wa tent both ii sides were waves of th impression, come out frr noon we we part of Cape Feezeland ; bore south fonnd our I III t\ie afte «tanding to t bore north north 40 d. ""agined mo ttst. Cape AND ROUND THE WORLD. SOU which, tlioufirfi theM are mere sup|>nsitionril, at two o'clock A. M.we came in si.«rht oftha land We were searching after, which prov- ed to b« two Isles. On acc3unt oftli^ *dC' f i * *4 \ \ { >if)i 210 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE. il 'J 1911 [^BBB^ jA JtB^HE. jBHnBjHHBpB J ' MWB ISffiM lifl ^^^p IHR ^ffi '- JBMH i^^p^ ^ |VS9 ^M^'''^ ' iJ^HHO ^M ©n nli'u;h tliey were discovered, we called til iti {'andleinas Fsles. They lie in lati- tude 57 (l^!;. II inin. S. and in 27 deg. 6 Kiin. W. If-'Diiitiide. Hetween these we ob- served a small rock ; there may perhaps be others ; lor the wenlher beins^ hazy, occa- sioned us t > lose sight ot the Islands, and we dii^i not see ihem again till noon, at which liin<^ they were three or four leagiies off*. We were now obliged, by reason of the wind haviuii' veered to the south, to stand to t!'e X. E. and at midnight came sud- denly into water niicomn.only white, at which appearance the otKcer on watch was Fo nnioh a'aruted, that he immediately ordered the ship to be put about, and we acroniiniily tiicked instantly. There were various oj)inions aboard concerning this matter ; probably it might be a shoal offish ; but some said it was a shoal of ice ; and others tliousiiit il was shallow water. On Sunday the 4th, ai two o'clock A. M. we resumed our coujse to the e?st, and at six trieil if there were any curreiU, but found none. At this time some whales were play- ing, and nundiers of penguins flying about «s : of the latter we shot a few, different from those on Sfaten Land, and at the Isle of Cieorgia. We had not seen a seal since we left that coast, which is somewhat remarkable. By observation at noon, we found ourselves in latitude 56* deg. 44 min. S. and in longitude 25 (leg. 33 min. W. We now having a breeze at east, stood to the south, intending to regain the coast we had lost ; but the wind at eight o'clock in the evening, obliged us to stand to the east, in which run we saw many ice-islands, and some loose ice. As the formation of ice- islands has not been fully investigated, we will here ofttr a few hints and observations respecting them. We do not think, as some others do, that they are formed by the water at the months of great cataracts, or large rivers, which, when accumulated, break off, owing (o their ponderous weight ; because we never found any of the ice, which we to IH 08 f«< north as 51 dcjor. Others have seen it in a much lo^ver latitude. Let us now suppose there is a SfJutJiern Continent within the polar circle. The question wbicdi readily occurs, will be : Wiiat end can be answer- ed in discovering or explorinix such a coast ? Or what use can the same be either to na- viuation, geoi^raphy, or any other science ? And what benetits can result therefrom to a commercial state ? Consider for a moment, what thick fogs, snow, storms, intense cold, and every thing dangerous to navigation, must be encountered with by eveiy hardy adventurei , behold the horrid aspect oT u country impenetrable by the aniniating heat of the sun's rays ; a country doomed to be immersed in everlasting snow. See the Islands and floats on tlie coast, and the continual falls of the ice clitfs in the ports: these (liiHculties, which might be heighten- ed by others not less lioiild have been in great danger of the ^t'lrvty breaking out among us, and we do not know any good purpose farther dis- coveries would have answered : we there- fore steered for the Cape of Good Hope, intending to look for liuivet's disonveiy. Cape CircumcisJon, and the Isles of Denia and Marseveen. But betbre we continne the narrative of this voyage, it may not be thought imjiroper to collect a few t>l)serva- tions from our most eminent writers, on Terra Magellauica, Patagonia, jiart of which coast lies within the straits, the Islaiul of Terra del Feugo, and Faulkiand's Lslands. Terra Magellanica received its name from Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguese officer ; who likewise gave names to those straits w liich lead from the south to the north >ea, he being the tirst who sailed tlirough them. The appellation of Patagonia was derived irom a principal tribe of its inhahitants, called Patagons. The whole country, which goes niider the name of Patagonia, extends from Chili and Paraguay to the utmost ex- tremity of South America, that is, from »Jr> almost to 54 degrees of south latitude, being seven hundred miles long, and three hun- dred broad where widest. The northern parts contain an almost inexhaustible stock oflarge timber, but in the southern districts there is scarcely a tree io be seen tit for anj' mechanical purpose. The lofty moun- tains, called the Andes, traverse the whole country from north to south. Here are incredible numbers of wild horn- ed cattle and horses, which were tirst brought hither by the Spaniards, and have inciea^^ed aod. Some carce ; but were that the case, we cannot see now the present inhabitants, and such multitudes of cattle could suusish The east coast is chiefly Sow-land, with few or no good liarbours ; that calle«l St. .lulian is one of the best. The inhabitants of Patagonia consist of several Indian tribes, as the Patagons, J*am- 1»as, r!ossar:\s, &c. They are a savage, bar- laroiis people, of a copper colour, like the rest of the Americans, ivith coarse idistk hail, and no beards. They are mightily addicted to painting thenJsilVes, and make streaks on tneir facet and bodies. They ^o >y amazingly; the pasturage also is good. Some writers tell us that fresh water is scarce ; but I I .^..J.f- 342 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, ;. m fi.j: & almost stark Tiak»?d, having only a square ffjinneut, in the form of a blanket., made ol'the skins ot" several animals, and sewed to^'ether, which they sometimes wrapt round tliem in extreme cold weather ; and they li;ive also a cap of the skins of fowls on tijtir iieads. Former voyagers represented theui as monstrous giants of eleven feet hit;l), whereas they are no taller than the other Americans. The women, as in other i»iaccs, are very fond of necklaces and brare- I+^ts, which they make of sea shells. The natives chiefly live on tish and i^ame, and M'hat the earth |)roduces spontaneously. This country abounds w ith an animal call- ed camel-sheep by some authors, but their true name is <;nanacoes. They pa''take of the nature of a camel, though they have no bunch on the back, and they were formerly made use of to carry burdens. Tlie> have also a bird called an ostrich, but not so ]ars>e, and they differ from the African ostriches iu having three toes, whereas those have but two. A great number of Islands, or clusters of Islands, lie on the coasts of P.itn^onia. The Island of Terra del Fengo, or the Laiul of Fires, as it was callcil by the first discoveiers, on account of their having o}>- served some gre«t fires upon it (supposed to be volciinoes) as they passed it in the night, is separated from the continent by tlie Miigellanic Straits; has a rough ap- pei.rance, being very mountainous, but i% intersected with deep narrow vaPeys, and is well 'vatered. The natives of this country are si)'>rt in their persons, not exceeding live i'tet six inclies at most, their heads large, their faces l)road, their cheek bones ifcry prominent, and their noses very flat. They have little brown eyes, without life ; their hair is blacU and lank, hanging about their heals in disnrder. and besfueared with train oil. On the chin they have a few stniuuMiiiir short hairs inslea«l of a beard, and fiDMj their nose there is a constant «lis- cha-ire t»f mucus into their uirlv open ujouth. ^rhe whole asseud)lage of their features forms the most loathso.ue (lieture of misery and wretche»biess to which human nature can possibly be reduced. They had no other clothing than a .small piece of «eal-sktn, whicli hung from their shoulders to the middle of the back, being fa.stened roniKi the neck with a string. The rest of ilifcjr body was |»erfectly naked, not the least re- gard being paid to decency. Their naUirul coloiu' seeurs to be an olive-brown, with n kind of gloss resembling that of copper but many of them disguise themselves vvitli streaks of red paint, and sometimes, tli<)uo|, seldom, with white. Their whole chdracter is the .strongest compound of stupidity, in. differen<,'e, and inactivity. They l)av<' in, other arms than bows and arrows, and tiieji instruments for fishing, a kind of fish <- a us. They live chiefly on seals flesh, and like the fat oily part best. There is no appearance of any subordination among them, and their mode of living approaches nearer to that of brutes, than that of any other nation. The children go naked, and the only wea! j)on of the men is a long stick generallj hooked, and pointed at the eiul like a lance. They live in huts made of boughs, and covered with mud, branches, &c. One side is open, and the fire-place is in the middle- and a whole family herd togetli«r in one of these miserable hovels. The above-mentioned Islands are all very barren and mountainous ; but from what Mr. Forster says, iu his Voyage to the South Sea, the climate would not appear to he so rigorous and tempestuous as it is represent- ed in Anson's Voyage. Upon the lower grounds and Islaiids that were sheltered hy the high mountains, .several sorts of treei and plants, and a variety of birds were found. Among the trees was Winter's hark- tree, and a species of arbulus, Ioafenty of celery. Among the hirdft was a species of durincipal of them Hawkins' Maidenland, in liononrof queen Elizabeth. The prest-nt name Faulkiaiid was probably given them by Capt. Stfonsi', in 1689, and "afttrwards adopted by Halley. The late lord Ejiuiont, first lord of the atlmiralty in 1764, then revived the scheme o;' a settlement in the South Seas , and coujMi'xIore Byron was sent to take imsses- sioii of Faulkland's Islands in tie name of his liiitarniic majesty, and in his journal represents tliem as a valiable acquisition. Oil the other hand, they f;ve represented hy Capt. M Hiide, who in 1766, succeeded that trentlen»;\n, as the outcasts of nature. '' \Ve *onnd (saj.s he) a utap of Inlands and l)rokeii lands, ot which the s<)i\ was nothing hut a boLf, witii no better pro»*pect than that of barren mountains, beaten by storms almost perpetual. Yet this is summer ; and if the winds of winter bold their natural proportion, those who he but two cables* length from the shore, niust pass weeks with- out any communication with it." The herbs and vegetables which were planted hy Mr. Byron's people ; and the fir-tree, a native «f rugged and coUl climates had withered. In the sumancr moidhs, wdd celery and sorrel are the natural luxuries of these I.slands. Goats, sheep, and hogs, that were carried hither, were found to in crease and thrive as in other places. Geese of a fishy taste, snipes, penguins, foxes, and sea lions, are also found here, and plenty of good water. Tiinugln the soil be barren, and the sea tempestuous, an English settlement was made here, of which we were dispossessed l)y the Spaniards in 1770. That violence was, however, disavowed by the Spanish ambi;ss;idoj and .some concessions were made to the court of Great Britain ; but in order to avoid giving umbrage to the court of Spain, fhe settlement was afterwards abandoned. On Tuesday the 7th, we resumed our lourse to the east, mid this day only three 7 ice-islands were .seen. At eight o'clock in the evening, we hauled the wind to the S. E. for the iiight. On the 8th, at day-light, we continued our course to the east, being in latitude 58 deg. 30 min. S. and in 10 deg. 14 min. W. longitude. In the after- noon passed three ice-islands. On the iHh, we had a calm most part of the day ; the weather fair, except at times a snow shower. We .saw several ice-island.s, but not the least intimation that could induce us to think that any land was near us. We stood now to N. E. with a bree/e which sprung up at S. E. On the lOlli, we had showers of sleet and snow ; the weather was piercing cold, in.sumuch that the water on deck was frozen. The ice-islands were continually in .sight. On the 11th, we continued to steer east. In the morning we had heavy shower* of smiw ; but as the day advancfd, we had clear and serene weather. At noon we were in latitude 68 deg. 11 min. and in 7 deg. 55 min. W. longitude. On the Tith, w^ had ice-islands contiimally in sight, but most of them were small and breaking to pieces. On Monday the 13th, we had a heavy fall of snow ; but the sky clearing up, we had a fair night, and so sharp a frost, that the water in all our ve.ssels on deck, was next morning covered with a sheet of ice. On the 14th, we continued to steer east, inclining to the north, and in the afternoon crossed the tirst meridian, or that of Greenwich, ni the latitude of 57de!j'. 50 inin. S. At eight o'clock we had a hard uale at S. S. W. and a high sea from the .same quarter. On the 15tli, we steered E. N. E. till noon, when by observation, we were in latitude 56 deff. 37 min. S. an llu* iioi til. At lliis time tvc had a heavy fall of snow ini(J sleet, which fixed to the masts ami riiiyins^ as it fell, and coated the whole with ice. On the 17lh, we had a great lii^h sea from the south, from whence we concluded no land was near in that direc- tion. At this time were in latitude 54 dea:. 20 min. S. and in 6 dei^. 3>] min. £. lo4i(>'i- tude. On the 18th, the weather was fair niid clear. We now kept a look-oiit for C.'ape Circumcision ; for if the land had ever so little extent in the direction of N and S. we could not miss seeing it, as the northern point is saiil to lie in 54 deg. On the 19th, at eisrht o'clock in the morning, land ap- peared in the direct on E. by S. but it prov- ed a mere fog bank. We now steered E. by S. ajid S. E. till seven o'clock in the evening, when we were in latitude 54 deg. 42 min. S. and in 13 drg. 3 min. E. longi- tude. We now .stood to N. W. having a very strong gale, attended with snow show- ers. On Monday the 20th, we tacked and stretched to N. E. and had a fresh gale attended with snow showers and sleet. At noon we were in latitude 54 deg. 8 min. S. hmgitude 12 deg. 59 min. E. but had not the least sign of land. On the 21st, we were 5 weie n^^v '" latitude 41 «Kg. .'{<) inin. S. lirst vvlio dared to afiront tlif iH. It seems /oniritude 26 deg. 51 min. V.. We had not they had lorinerly met with some n^hiitSs vet seen any si«?ns of land, hut alhatrosses, lor too nuich rre<|uentin^ t'o cooks' apftrt- 'peterels, nnd other sea birds, were our had hitherto >asseu mi joke; visitors^ On the 11th, the wind shitted hut now a veifnhir eomplai was iaid be- siuiiieniy from N. W. to ^». W. which occa- fore the (Captain, of tl .r unwarrantable sioiied the mercury to fail as suddenly from behaviour, and of the d; nger the ujen wei>; (52 to 52 d eg. so different was the state of in of their lives; into v hich complaint the )l)o air between a northerly and southerly Captain was under a n cessity of inq\iirin'. and upon linding- it j' st, of continnis' the •(Mriin. S. longitude 23 deg'. 47min E Offend r^ in irons. W'ilelhey were in this Oil Sunday the 12th, some alhatrosse . situation, the articles . fwar beitii; read, it Olid peterels were shot, which proved an was found that tl « ^' \nce was of such a ricceptable treat. This day we were nearly nature as hardly to oe determined without in the situation, in which the Isles of Denia a reference to a court martial, in order to and iMarseveen are said to lie, and not the which th* two who appeared most culpable, least liojie of lindinii' them remained. On werecontnued prisoners upon parole, ami the b'JtIi, we stood to N. N. W. and it noon liy oli'iiervation, were in latitude 38 . ol iiiin, S which was above tliirty miles more than our lofr trave us; to what this dilfer- eiice nas f)win|4', we could not determine. The watch also shewed that we had beefi set to the east. At this time we were 2de- the third w s cleared. After this Dnsmess had engrossed the ('aptain's attention, he called the ship's crew together, and after reronnling the particulars of the voyage, the hardships they had met with, the fatigues they had undergore, and the cheerlulness they had constantly shewn in the discharge !*:iees north of the |)arallel in which the Isles of their duty, he crave them to understand, are laid down, bat ''i)und not any encou- how much it would still more recommend ra-iernent to persevere in our endeavour's to them to the lords of the admiralty, if they jindlliem. This mi^st have consumed more would preserve a profound silence in the time, we think, in a fruitless srarch ; and ports they had yet to pass and might enter, every one, all having been confined a long with regard to the courses, the discoveries time to stale and salt provisi(nis, was im- (hey had made, and every particular relat've yntient to get into port. \V'e therefore in to this voyage ; and likewis after their ,e- eompliance with the general wish, resolved turn home, till they had their lordshijis* per- fo make the best of f)ur way to the Cape of mission to the contrary ; requiring, at the (looii Hope. We were now in latitude 38 s;Mne time, all those officers who had kept (leu. 38 min. S. and in 23 deg. 37 min. E, journals, to deliver them into his custody, to lo mi; inle. lie sealed up, and not to be opened till de- Oii 'I'hursday the lOth, nt day-break, we livered to their ]ordshi|)s at the proper (leseryed ' i tjie N, W. quarter, standing to office, in the interim they were to be lite westward, two sail, one of which shew- locked up safely in a / Miiarrel arose betwuin three rd^icers, and the ship's CO' ks, which was not reconciled with- oiil seri(Mis <'onse(jucnces. I'hose three gon- t fMien, upon ^ome occasion or other, eiiter- cddie cook-room witli t.4^('d knives, anil with oaths, unbecoming tlieir character, \ y On Friday, the 17th, we observe the bay We lound shi|)s of ditTerent nations, among which was an English East Indiaman, from China, bouneople, to render an act of savage barbarity, that would scarcely admit of aggravation, still more horrible. But, wliich gave us full satisfaction about this matter Capt. Furneaux had left a letter tor our commander, in which he mentions the loss of the boat, and ten of his men, in Qneeii Charlotte's Sound. The day atter our ai- rival at this place, Capt. Cook, accompa- nied by our gentlemen, waited on Baron Plettenberg, the Dutch Governor, by whom, and his principal officers, they were treated with the greatest politeness ; and as at this place refreshments of all kinds may be pro. cured in great abundance, we now, after the numerous fatigues of a long voyage, hegaii to taste, and enjoy the sweets of repose. It is a custom here for all the officers to reside on shore ; in compliance with which, the Captain, the two Forsters, and Mr. Spar- man took up their abode with Mr. Brandt, well known to our countrymen for iijs obliging readiness to serve them. Our people on board were not neglected : and being provided daily with fresh baked bread, fresh meat, greens, wine, &c, they nere soon restored to their usual strength, and as .soon forgot all past harsiiips and dan- gers. All hands were employed now to supply all our defects. Almost every thing except the standing rigging was to be reniami anew; and it is well known the cliart'es here for naval stores are most exorbitant ; for the Dutch both at the Ca|)e and Batavia, take a scandalous advantage of the distress of foreigners. That our casks, rigging, sails, &c, should be in a shattered condition, is easily accounted for. In circumnavigating!; the globe, we mean, from leaving this place to our return to it again, vve had sailed mo less than sixty tlnuisaiid miles, »' atton was therefore ordered to steer N. W. by W» or N. W. till to the northward of Ascension. AV^ith this ship we were in company till the 24th, when we parted. A packet for tlie admiralty was put on board, and she conti- nued her course N. W. On Sunday, the 28th, we made the Island of A^-^ension, and on the evening anchored in i. ,>,.s Ray, on tlie N. W. side, half a mile from the shore, in ten fathoms water. The Cross-hill, so called on account of a tlag statf erected upon it ill fin in of a cross, bore S. ;J8 deg. E. antl the two extreme points of the bay extended from N. E. to S. W. We had several fish- ing iiarties out every niglit, and i^ut aboul lili /If vri 34? VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, in twtiiiy-roiir turtles wemliiat;' between four nud live luindred weiijlit eacli. '^Pliis was our iiriucipal object, though we Miiij;ht have Jiiicl a plentiful sripply of fish in general, We liave no where seen old wives in snch .'tbundiince ; also cuvalies, conger eels, and various ofiier sorts. This island li«s in tlje direction N. W. flr.d S. E. and is ten siiiles b'oad, and five or six long^. Its surface is very barren, and scarcely |)roduces a shrub, plant, or any kind of vegetation, in the space of many miles; instead ofwiiich we saw only stones and sand, or rather flags and ashes: hence from the general appearance of the face of this island, it is nsore than probable, that, at some time, ofwiiich we have no account, it has becM destroyed by a volcano. We met with in our excursions a smooth evien surface in the intervals between the heaps of stones : but as one of our people observed, you maj' as easily walk over broken glass bottles as over the stones; for if you sli|), or make a false step, >ou are sure to be cut or lamed. At the S. E. end of the isle is a h gi» mountain, which seenjs to have bern lei't in its original state , tor it is covered wMth a kind of white marl, prodficinif pur- slain, spurtre, and one or two sorts of grass. On these the goats teed, which are to br found in this part of the isle. Here are good land crabs, and Uie sea abounds with turtle from January to June. They always come on shore (o lay their eggs in the night, when (hey are canght by turnin&r them on their backs, in which positi(»n they are left on the beach till the next morning: u hen the turtk-catchers fetch them away. We are inclined to think, that the turtles come t'» tliis island merely for the purpose of lay- HfU' theireggs, as we found none but females ; wov \i h\ those we caught any food in their s^vcnachs. We saw also near this place aixiudunre of p.fiuaJic iMn!-;, such as tropic birds, men f»f w;ir. boobies. &c. On the N. E- side we found t!i<^ remains <»f a wreck ; vhe seemed to have been a vessel of one iuiudred and i'lCty tons burthen. We were informed, that there is ,i fine spring" in a valley between two hills, on the top of the uiountain above-mentioned ; besides great 4 quantities of fresh water in holes in tht rocks. While the Resolution lay in the road, a sloop belonging to New-Yi)rk aii. chored by her. She had been to the coast of Guinea with a cargo of goods, and came here under a pretence to take in turtle ; hut her real intention was, we believe, to trattic with the othcers of our homeward bound East Indiamen ; for she had lain here near a week, and had got on board only twenty turtles; whereas a slooj) from Bermuda, had sailed butafewdays betore,with onehundred and five on board, which were as n)any as she could take in; but having turned several more on different beaches, they inhumanly ripped open their bellies, for the sake of ihe eggs, and left the carcases to putrify. 'Jl,e centre of this island of Ascension is situated in the latitude of 8 deg S. and 14 deg. 28 min. 3t> sec. W. longitude. On Wednesdaj, the 31st of May, we de- parted from the island of Ascension, and steered, with a fine gale at S. E. by E. for that of Fernando de ^iorhonha, on the coa.st of Bra.sil, in order to determine its longi- tude. In our passage for this place w-e had very good weathe>, and fine moon-light nights, which afforded us many opportuni- ties of making li'iar observations. On the 9th of June wf^ made the Island, uliidi had the appearance of severaldetached hills; the largest of which very much resembled the stee|)le of a church. As we advanced, and drew near it, we lound the sea brol;e in a violent surf on .some sunken rocks, which lay abcuit a league from the shore. We now hoisted English colours, and b((re up round the north end ot the isle, which is a grou|) of little islots ; for we perceived |>lainly that the land was iniconnected, and divided by narrow channels. On one oftlie.se, next the main, are .«everal strong forts, rendered .so by the natiue of their .situation, which • >uch as to command all the anchurins; 01 landing-places about the island. We c(Mi ucd to sail romid the northern point, till the sandy beaches before which is the road for shipping, and the forts v>ere ojun to the westward of the said |)oint. As the Resolution advanced, a gun was fired, and inimedialely the Portuguese colours WMf ■' iUi ;^ii* kM AND ROUND THE WOill.D. i^^y Jispl.iyeii on all the forts; but not intending 5 dei?. 47 inin. N. and in 31 tlei?. W. longi* to st(M> i^cre, we fired u gun to the leeward, tude. After this we had three successive iiiul stood away to the northward, with a calm days, in which we had fair weallur lirsfi breeze at E. S. E. The hill, which and rains alternately; and sometimes the aj)i)c'ius like a church tower, bore S. 27 deg. sky was obscured by dense clouds, which >y. five miles distant ; and from our present broke in very heavy showers of rain. On point of view it appeared to lean, or over- Sunday the 18th, we had a breeze at east, hang to the east. Fernando de Norhonha which fixed at N. E. and we stretched to is ill no part more than six leauues in extent, N. W. As we advanced to the north, the and exhibits an unequal surface, well gale increased. On Wednesday, the 21st, clothed vviih wood and herbage. Its lati- Capt. Cook ordered the still to be set to tudeisOdeg. 53 rnin. S. and its longitude work, with a view of making the greatest rallied on by the watch, from St. Helena, quantity possible of fresh water. To try is "J'i deg. 34 min. W. Don Antonio d'Ulloa, this experiment, the still was fitted to the in liis account of this island, says, " that it largest copper we had, which held about liutli two harbours, capable of receiving sixty-four gallons of salt water. At four shi|»sof the greatest burden ; one is on the o'clock, A. M. tlie fire was lighted, and at nortjj side, and the other on the N. W. The six the still began to run. The operation former is, in every respect, the principal, was continued till six in the evening: at both for shelter and capaciousness, and the which time we had obtained thirty-two gal- goodness of its bottom ; but both are expos- Ions of fresh water, and consumed onebushel ed to the north aiul west, though these and a half of coals. At noon, the mercury winds, particularly the north, are perioflicid, in the thermometer was eighty-four and a and of no long continuance. You anchor half, as high as it is generally found to rise in ihe north harbour (which Capt Cook at sea. Had it been lower more water called a road) in thirteen fat'ionis water, one would have been i()rocured ; for it is well third of a league from the shore, bottom of known, that the colder the air is, the cooler fine sand ; the peaked hills beirinaS. W. the still maybe kept, whereby the steam 3 deg. southerly." This road, or, (as Ulloa will be condensed faster. This invention, terms it) harbour, is very secure for shipping, upon the whole, is a useful one, b»jt it being sheltered from the south and east would not be prudent for a navigalor to winds. A mariner in our ship, had been trust wholly to it ; for though, with jdeiity aboard a Diitch East Indianian, who, on of fuel, and good coppers, as much v^ater acronnt of her crew being sickly, and in may be obtained, as will be necessary to want (tf refreshments, put into this isle. By support life, yet the utmost efix)rts that can liiin we were informed, that the Portuguese be employed in this work, will not procure supplied them with some bufTaloes ; and a sufficiency to support health, especially that they got their water behind one of the in hot climates, where fresh water is inost beaclies, from a small pool, scarcely big wanted; and in the opinion of Capt. Cook, eiidiiirli to dip a bucket in. founded on experience, the best judge of On Sunday, the lllh of June, at three this matter, nothing can contribute more to o'clock P. M. in longitude 32deg. 14 min. the health of seamen than their having we crossed the line. We had squally wea- plenty of sweet fresh water. llit^r from the E. S. E. with showers of rain, On Sunday the 2oth, we were in latitude a r.c'i continued, at times, till the ]2tli,and 16 deg. 12 min. N. and in 37 deg. 20 min. I !i (lie 13th the wind l)ecame variable. At W. longitude. Observing a ship to wiiid- iiooii we were in the latitude of 3 deg. 49 ward, bearing down upon us, we shortened iiiiri. N. and in 31 (\e<^. 47 min. W. longi- sail ; but, on her approaching, we lound by tilde. We had now for most part of the day, her colours she was Dutch; we therefore Jark, cloouiv weather, till the evening of made sail again, and left lit- r to [)ursiie hef the U'ith, at which time we were in latitude course. On the 28th, we observtd iu the 'H it '■. ^;i'J vmM !' -R- -f h "i ''■ II \mi z:a} VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, latitude of 21 tleg. 21 iinn. N. longitude 40 deg. (j mi 11 W. and oni course made good was N. by W. On the 30th, a shin passed us withitihale, but she was presently out of 5tight, and we judged her to be English. Wt were now in the latitude of 24 deg. 20 niin. N. lon;.'tude 40 deg. 47 min. W. In latitude 29 ([eg. JJO min. we saw some sea-plants, cummordy called gulph-weed, because it is supposed to come from the gulph of Florida; it may be so, and yet it certainly vegetates at sea. We continued to see this plant in small pieces, till in the la- titude ot 3ii deg. N. beyond which parallel we saw no more of it. On Wednesday, the 5th of July, the wind veered to the east; and the next day it was a calm. On the 7th, and 8th, we had variable light airs ; but on the Otli, the wind fixed at S. S. W. after which we had a fresh gale, and steered first N. E. and then E. N. E. our intention being to make some of the Azores, or Western Isles. On Tuesday the 11th, we were in latitude 36 deg. 45 min. N. and in 36 deg. 45 inin. W. longitude, when we descried a sail steering to the west ; and on the 12lh, we came in sight of three more. On Thursday the 13th, we made the isle of Fayal, and on the I4th, at day-break, we entered the bay of De Horta, and at eight o'clock anchored in twenty fathoms water, about half a mile from the shore. Our de- sign in touching at this place, was to make observations, from whencemight bedetermin- ed with accuracy the longitude of the Azores. We were directed by the master of the port, who came on board before we cast anchor, to moor N. E. and S. VV. in this station, the S. W. point of the bay bore S. 16 deg. W. and the N. E. point," N. 33 deg. E. The chtsrch at the N. E. end of the town N. 38 deg. W. the west point of St. George's island N. 42 (leg. E. distant eight leagues; and the isle ot Pico extending from N. 74 i\e^. E. to S. 40 deg. E. distant five miles. In the bay we found the Ponrvoyer, a large French frigate, an American slooj), and a brig be- longing to Fayal. C ) the 14th, the Cap- tain sent to th^*? English consul, and noti- fied our arrival to the governor, betrging his G permission to grant Mr. Wales an, opporln. nity to make his observations on shore. Tins was readily granted, and Mr. Dent, who acted as consul, in the absence of Mi' Gathorne, not only procured this permission' but accommodated Mr. Wales with a con, venient place in his garden, to set up jijs instruments; and in several other partinu lars, this gentleman discovered a friendly readiness to oblige us : even his house was always at our command, both night and daj ; and the entertainment we met with there was liberal and hospitable. All the time we staid at this place, the crew of our ship were supplied with plenty of fresh beef, and we purcnased about fifty tons of water, at the rate of about three shillings per ton. To hire shore boats is the most general custom here, though shi|)s are allowed, if they prefer many inconveniencies toa trifl- ing expence, to water with their own boats. Fresh provisions may be got, and hosjs, sheep, and poultry, for sea-stock, at reason. able rates. The sheep are not only syiajj, they are also very poor; but the bullocks and hogs are exceeding good. Here is plenty of wine to be had. Before we proceed with our own observa- tions, made during our abode at Fayal, it may be agreeable to our readers, to gm them a brief account and descripti(»n of all the Azores, or Western Islands. These have by different geographers, been variously deemed parts of America, Africa, and Eu- rope, as they are almost in a central |)()int. but we apprehend they may with more pni- nriety be considered as belonffing to ihe latter. They are a group of islands, sitnated in the Atlantic ocean, between 25 and .']2 deg. of west longitude, and between 37 and 40 north latitude, nine hundred miles west of Portugal, and as many east of New- foundland. They are nine in number, viz. St. Maria, St. Miguel, or St. Michael, 'ler- ceira, St. George, Graciosa, Fayal, Pico. Flores, and Corvo. These islands were first discovered by .some Flemish ships in 1439, and afterwards by the Portuguese in 1447, to whom they now belong. The two westirn most' were named Flores and Corvo, from the abundance AND ROtJND THE WOKLD ddt otnowers on the one, and cniwson tlieotber. Tluy are all fertile, and subject toa^rovernor- geiieral, who resides at Aii^ru in Terceiia, Aviiicli is also the seat of the bisliop, whtise diocese extends over all the Azores, The jiiooine of the latter, which is paid in wheat, aiiioiiiits to about two hundred pounds sterling" a year. On every Island there is a deputy-governor, who directs the police, iniiitia, and revenue, and a juiz, or judge, i» at the head of the law department, from ivlioni lies an appeal to a higher court at Terceira, and from thence to the supreme court at Lisbon. The natives of these islands are said to be very litigious. St. Miguel, the larjfest, is one hundred miles in circumference, contains about twenty-nine thousand inhabitants, and is very fertile in wheat and tlax Its chief town is Panta del Gado. This island was twice ravaf^ed by the English in the time of queen Elizabeth. Terc«iira, is reckoned the chief Island, on account of its having the best harljour ; and its chief l^wn, named An^ra, being the re- sidence ot the governor-general and the bishop. The town contains a cathedral, five other churches, eight convents, several courts of otiic^.St &c, and is defended by two fcrts. The Island o\ Pico, so called from a mountain of vast height, produces excellent wine, cedar, and ^ valuable wood, called teixos. On the so jth of the Island is the principal harbour, called Villa das Lagens. The inhabitants of Flores having been many years ayo inl'^cted with the venereal disease, by the crew of a Spanish man of war, that wap wrecked upon their coast, the evil, it is said, still maintains its ground there, none of the inhabitants being free from it, as in Pern, and some parts of Si- beria. Travellers relate, that no poisonous or venomous animal is ^o be fijund in the Azores, and that if carried tiiith^r, it will expire in a few hours. One tenJii of all their produc- tions belong to the king, and the article of tobacco brings in a considerable sum. The wine, called Fayal wine, is chiefly raised in the island of Pico, which lies opposite to Fayal. Fiom eighteen to twenty thousand pipes of that wiue are made there yearly. All of these islands enjoy a salubrious air, but are exposed to violent earthquakes, from which they have frequently suflered. Villa «le Florta, the chief towti of Fayal, like vdl the towns belonging to the Portu- guese, is crowded with religious buildings; there being no less, n\ this little city, tJian three convents for men, and two for women. Here are also eight churches, including those belonging to the convents, and that In the Jesuits colle^'e. This coihge is a noble structure, and seated on an elevation, in the pleasantest part of the cky. Since tlie ex- pulsion of tjiat order, it has been snfj'ere^l to go to decay, and, in a few years, bj the all- consuming hand of time, may be reduced to a heap of ruins. The principal produce of Fayal is vvheat and Indian corn, with which the inhabitants supply Pico, which, in re- turn, sends them wine more than sufficient for their consumption, great quantities being annually shipped from De Horta, (for at Pico there is no road for shipping) for Ame- rica, whence it has obtained the name of Fayal wine. The Villa de Horta is situated in the bottom of a bay, close to the edge of the sea. It is defended by two castles, one at each end of the town, and a stone work, extending along the sea shore, from the one to the other. But these works serve more tor shew than defence ; but it is a pity they should be sutTered to run to decay ; seeing they heighten greatly the prospect of the «;ity, which is very beautiful from the road ; but, setting aside the religious, houses and churches, we saw not another edifice, that has any thing, either within or without, to recommend it. It is not the custom, in these parts, among the Portuguese or Spa- :aards, to have glass windows, but in this town the churches, and a country-house, lately belonging to the English consul, have their windows glased ; all others latticed, which gave them in our eyes, the appear- anOte of prisons. Before this Villa, at the east end of the island, is the bay or road of Fayal, which faces the west end of Pico, It is a semi-circle about two miles in diamo> ter; aud its depth, or semi-diameter, is mm ;M 1 / " ,v^a- ^^^ \"^ s^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) 1.0 I.I ■ 50 ^^" i^H ■^ 1^ 12.2 ^ U° 12.0 iJ£ |l.25 1 U ,,.6 ^ 6" ► Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 Wl&i NtA. > ' TMKT WliBSTER, N.Y. USSO (716)S72-4S03 '^ « 352 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE ^» three-f«)iirths of a mile. The bottom is $;atidy, and the depth of water from six to twenty fathoms ; bnt, near the shore, parti- cularly at th^ S. W. head, the bottom is rucUy ; as it also is without the line that connects the two points of the bay ; on which account it is not safe to anchor too far nut. The bearings which we have laid down, when moored in this road, are mt- ficient to direct any steersman to the best ground. The winds to which this road lies most exposed are those that blow from be- Iweeti the S. S. W. and S. E. but as you can always i;et to sea with the latter, this is not Ko dangerous as the former ; and we were told, there is a small cove round the S. W. point, cilled Porto Piere, where small ves- sels are htaved down, and wherein a ship may lay tolerably safe. Upon the whole, we hy no means think this road of Fayal a bad one. We were informed, by a Portu- f,niese Captain of the following particulars, which, it true, are not unwortny of notice. However, his accotint may be attended to to by Captains of ships, though not entirely relied n. This Portuguese tbld us, that in the d ection of S. E. abort half a league from the road, and in a line between that and the south side of Pico, lies a con- cealed sunken rock, covered with twenty- two fathfims water, on which the sea breaks from the south. He also gave IIS to nnd'erstand, that of all the shoals about these isles that are laid down in our charts, and pilot books, only one has any existence, which lies between the islands of St. Mary «nd St. Michael, called Hormingan. He further informed us, that the distance be- tween Fayal and the island of Flores, is forty-five leagues; and that there runs a strong tide between Fayal and Pico, the flood setting on the N. E. and the ebb to the S. VV. hut out at sea, the direction is E. and W. By various observations, the true longitude of this bay was found to be 28 de'jf. ;Jf> inin. 18 sec. and an half. On Wedne^lay, the lOtht at four o'clock, A. M we sailed out of the bay, and steered for the west en ourselves not more than one leat^ue from t||« west end. We now proceeded as exiK-din, ously as the wind would permit, for E'tj;, land ; and on Saturday the 29th, we inacFe the land near Plymouth. On the followiii',« day, the 30th, we cast anchor at Spithead, when Capt. Cook, in company with Messrs. Wales, F<»rsters, and llodues, landed at Portsmouth, and from thence set out for London. The whole time of our absence from England was three years and eighteen days; and, owing to the unbounded good, ness of an Almighty Preserver, who induU gently favoured our attempt, and seconded our endeavours, notwithstanding the various changes of climates (and they were as vari- ous as can be experienced) we lost only one man by sickness, and three by other causes. Even the single circumstance of kee|»ing the ship's company in health, by means of the greatest care and attention, will make this voyage remarkable, in the opinion of every humane person; and we trust the grand end of this expedition, and the purposes i'ot which we were sent into the southern hemis. phere, were diligently and suHiciently |tiir< sued. The Resolution made the circuit of the southern ocean, in a high latitude, and Capt. Cook traversed it in such a man. ner, as to leave no room for a mere possihi. lity of there being a continent, unless neap the pole, and consequently out of the reach of navigation. However, by having twice explored the tropical sea, the situation of old discoveries were determined, and a niuii- ber of new ones made; so that, we tloller ourselTes,upon the whole, the intentionot'the voyage has, though not in every respect, yet upon the whole, been sufficiently answered; and by having explored so minutely thesouth* ern hemisphere, a final end may, perliups, he put to searching after a continent, in th.it part of the globe, which has of late yours, and, indeed, at times, for the two lastaiitu- ries, engrossed the attention of some ol" the maritime powers, and been a favourite theory among geographers of all ages. The probability of there being a continent, or large track of land, near the Pole, has been al-rcjidy granted ; and we may have sees iMofit. [ ess Islands, itrength to t prove, that t south ; but, to the north, lantic and Ir assigned sevc the greater d in the souther parallels of I the mercury so low as the latitude 60 d the other oce; of54 deg. tl) to a greater q farther north oceans, than i supposing the near land, of it will be an the land extei benefit can ac should they b to everlasting ble and savag< can describe, in search aftt brave and skill hiip proceed, i nature be his success, nor w of his discover Editors who hi to thf judgm and Complete «Mid Voyage, Jhat judgment however, we w narrative is no gence, that the whole is expref we flatter ourst to our numerou bere take the »»owledging. jhe principal of livered their j( ^apt. Coak ; ar tapt. Furueau g»nq AND ROUND THE WORLD. 353 tt^rtofit. The extreme cold, the number- ess Islands, and the vast floats of ice, give strength to this conjecture, and all tend to prove, that there must be main land to the south ; but, that this must extend larthest to the north, opposite to the southern At- lantic and Indian oceans, we have already assigned severai reasons ; of which one is, the greater degree of cold in these seas than inthe southern PacificOcean,under the same parallels of latitude; for in this last oceqn, the mercury in the thermometer, seldom fell so low as the freezing point, till w« were in latitude 60 deg. and upwards ; whereas, in the other oceans, it fell as low in the latitude of 54 deg. the cause whereof we attributed to a greater quantity of ice, which extended farther north in the Atlantic and Indian oceans, than in the south Pacific Sea ; and supposing the ice to be first for«ned at, or near land, of which we are fully persuaded, it will bean undeniable consequence, that the land extends farther north. But what benefit can accrue from lands thus situated, should they be discovered ? lands doomed to everlasting frigidness ; and whose horri- ble and savage aspect no language or words can describe. Will any one venture farther in search after such a country, than our brave and skilful commander has done ; Let hii;n proceed, and may the God of universal nature be his guide. We heartily wish hiin success, nor will we envy him the honour of his discovery. In behalf of ourselves, the. Editors who have the honour of submitting to thf judgment of the public, this New, and Complete History of Capt. Cook's Se- omd Voyage, we must not say much, as by that judgment we stand or tall; thus much, however, we will venture to say, that this narrative is not defective in point of intelli- gence, that the facts are true, and that the whole is expressed in an easy sytle, which we flatter ourselves will not be displeasing to ournumerous friends, whose favours we here take the opportunity of gratefully ac- knowledging. It has been observed, that the principal officers of tlie Resolution de- hvered their journals into the custody of Capt. Cook ; and, on his arrival in England, Capt. Furueaux also putint> bis bands a Z z narrative of what happened in the Adven- ture after her final Reparation from the Re- solution. But it is here necessary to remark further, that some ofiicers, in both ships reserved their private journals, and ceiiain ingenious memorials, to gratify the curiosity of their friends. From such materials these sheets are composed ; nor have we had re- course to any printed authorities, but from the sole view of correcting errors in some places, and rendering this undertaking, a. tall, comprehensive, and perfect work. Thii premised, we shall now lay before our rea« ders, a complete narrative of Capt Fuf« neaux's proceedings in the Adventure ,<■ to which we shall subjoin the improvements that have been made, respecting the means of preserving the health of our seamen, and particularly those that were used by Capt. Cook in his voyages. An accurate, concise, and complete Ao* count of Capt. Furneaux*s proceedings in the Adventure, from the time lie wa» separated from the Resolutiony to his arrival in England ; wherein is comprise ed a faithful relation respecting the boafs crew, who were murdered, aniit eaten bt/ the Cannibals of Queen Char-m- lotte's Sound in New Zealand. In October, 1773, we made the coast of New Zealand, after a passage of fourteen days, from Amsterdam, and stood along" shore till we reached CapeTurnagain, when- a heavy storm blew us ofi^ the coast for three days successively, in which time we were se- parated fiom our consort, the ResolutioM* and saw her not aftei^ards, in the course of her voyage. On Thursday, the 4th of November, we regained the shore, near to Cape Palliser. Some of the natives brought us m their canoes abundance of cray-hslr and fruit, which they exchanged for our Otaheite cloth, nails, &c. On the 5tli, the storm again returned, and we were driven oflfthe shore a second time by a violent srale of wind, with heavy falls of rain, so that thi* 354 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE. decks began to leak, our beds and bedding were wet, which yave many of our people colds ; and now w^. were most of us com- plaining, and all began to despair of ever getting mto the sound, or, which we had most at heart, or joining the Resolution. We combated the storm till Saturday, the 6th, when, being to the north of the Cape, and having a hard g[ale from S. W. we bore away for some bay, in order to complete our wood and water, of both which articles we were at present in great want. For some days past we had been at the allowance of one quart of water, and it was thought six CNT sev^n days more would deprive us even ef that scanty pittance. On Tuesday, the 9th, in latitudls 38 deg. 21 min. S. and in 178 deg. 37 min. E. longitude, we came abreast of Tolagabay, and in the forenoon anchored in eleven fathoms water, stiff, muddy ground, which lays across the bay for about two miles. This harbour is open from N. N. E. to E. S. E. nevertheless, it affords good riding with a westerly wind ; and, here are regular soundings from five to twerve fathoms. Wood and water are easily procured, except when the vvinds blow hard easterly, aud then, at such times, which are but seldom, they throw in a great sea. The natives about this bay are the same as tho.se at Queen Charlotte's Sound, but more nu- merous, and have regular plantations of sweet potatoes, and other roots. They have plenty offish of all sorts, which we purchas- td with nails, beads, and other trifles. In one of their canoes, we saw the head of a woman lying in state, adorned with feathers, •nd other ornaments. It had all the appear- ance of life, but, upon a nearer view we found it had been dried ; yet, every feature was in due preservation and perfect. We judged it to have been the head of some de- ceased relative, kejtt as a relic. It was at an island in this bay, where the Endeavour's people observed the largest canoe they met with during their whole voyage. It was, according to account, no less vhan sixty>eiglit ftet and a half long, five broad, and three feet six inches high : it had a sharp bottom, consisting of three trunks o( trees hollowed, af which that in the middle was longest: o the side planks were sixty-two feet long, m one piece, and were ornamented with carv» ings, not unlike fillngree work, in spirals of very curious workmanship, the extrenntie« whereof were closed with a figure that funn- ed the head of the vessel, in which were twr* monstrous eyes of mother of pearl, and » large shaped tongue ; and, as it descended, it still retained the figure of a monster, with hands and feet carved upon it ve y neatly, and painted red. It had also a high peaked stern, wrought in fillagree, and adorned with feathers, from the tor^ of which two long streauiers de])ended, made of the same materials, which almost reached the water. From tiiisdescription wemight betemptedto suppose, these canoes to be the vesseb, and this to be the country, lying to the south, of whichQuirosreceivedintelligenceaiTaumaio and where Toabia said they ate men, and had such large shipsas he could not descrihe. On Friday, 12th, having taken, aboard ten tons of water, and some wood, we set sail for the Sound ; but we were scarcely out when the wind beg-an to blow dead hard on the shore, so that, not being able to clear the land, on either tack, we were obliged to return to the bay, where we arrived the next morning, the 13th, and, liaving aii< chored, we rode out a heav> gale of wind, at E. by S, attended with a very great sea. We now began to fear the weather had put it out of our power to join our consort, har- ing reason to believe slie was in Charlotte Sound, the appointed place of rendezvous, and by this time ready for sea. Part oif the crew were now employed in stopping leaks, and repairing our rigging, which was in a most shattered condition. On the 14th, and 15th, we hoisted out out boats, and sent them to increase our stork of wood and water ; but on the last day tiie surf rose so high, that they could not make the land. On Tuesday the 16th, having made the ship as snug as possible, we un- moored at three o'clock, A. M. and before six got under way. From this time, to the twenty-eighth, we had nothing but teinpe.s- tuous weather, in which our rigtriim- Mas almost blown to pieces, and our ujen quite wore down with fatij^ue. On Monday, the AND ROUND THE WORLD. 955 ogtb, onr water being: nearly expended, we were again i-educed to the scanty allowance ofaquarta man per diem. We continued beating backward and forward till the 30th, H'hen the weather became more moderate ; and having got a favourable wind, we were so happy at last as to gain with safety our desired port. After getting through Cook's Straits, we cast anchor at three o'clock, P. M. in Queen Charlotte's Sound. We saw nothing of the Resolution, and began to doubt her safety ; but, upon having landed, we discovered the place where she had pitched her tents ; and, upon further exami- nation, on an old stump of a tree, we read these words, cut out, "Look underneath." Wecompliedin-tantljj with these instructions, and, digging, soon found a bottle, corked and waxed down, wherein was a letter from Capt. Cook, informing us of their ar- rival at tnis place, on the 3rd instant, and departure on the 24th, and that they intend- ed spending a few days in the entrance of the Straits, to look for us. We immediately get about the necessary repairs of the ship, with an intention of getting her to sea as loon as possible. On the 1st of December, (he tents were carried on shore, the armour- er's forge put upland every preparation made for the recovery of the sick. The coopers were dispatched on shore, to mend the casks, and we began to unstow the hold to get at the bread ; but, upon opening the casks we found a great quantity of it entirely spoiled, and most part so damaged, that we were obliged to bake it over again, which unavoidably delayed us some time. At in- tervais, during onr stay here, the natives came on board as usual, with great familia- lity. They generally brought fish, or what- ever they had, to barter with us, and seemed to behave with great civility ; though twice, in one ni^ht, they came to the. tents, with an intention of stealing, but were discovered before they had accomplished their design. A party alsp came down in the night of the 13th, and robbed the astronomer s tent of every thing they could carry away. This they did so quietly, that they were not so ranch as heard, or suspected, till the astro- nomer getting up to make an observation. 3 missed his instruments, an:^ charged the reiitinel with the robbery. Tnis brought on a pretty severe altercation, during which they spied an Indian creeping from the tent, at whom Mr. Bailey fired, and wounded him ; nevertheless he made a shift to retreat into the woods. The report of the gun had alarmed his confederates, who, instead of putting off from the shore, fled into the woods, leaving their canoe, with most of the things that had been stolen, a-ground on the beach. This petty larceny, it is pro- bable, laid the foundation of that dreadful catastrophe which soon after happened. On Friday, the 17th, at which time we were preparing for our departure, we sent out our large cutter, manned with seven seamen, under the command of Mr. John Rowe, the first mate, accompanied liy 3Ir. Woodhouse, midshipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the carpenter's servant. They were to proceed up the Sound to Grass Cove, to gather greens and celery for the ship's company, with or- ders to return that evening ; for the tents had been struck at two in the afternoon* and the ship made ready for sailing the next day. Night coming on, and no cutter appearing, the Captain and others began to express great uneasiness. They sat up all night, in expectation oftheir arrival, but to no purpose. At day-break, therefore, the Captam ordered the launch to be hoisted out. She was double manned, and under the command of our second lieutenant, Mr, Burney, accompanied by Mr. Freeman, master, the corporal of marines, with five private men, all well armed, and havinsf plenty of ammunition, two wall pieces, and three days provision. They were ordered first to look into East Bay, then to proceed to Grass Cove, and, if nothing was to be seen or heard of the cutter there, ' ey wer« to go further up the Cove, and return by the west shore. Mr. Row having lefii the ship an hour before the time proposed for his departure, we thought his curiosity miirhk have carried him into East Bay, none ot our people having ever been there, or that some accident might have happenerl to the bout ; for not the least suspicion was entertained of the. natives, our boats having been higbei 956 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, np, and worse fifovided. Mr. Burne3r re- turned about eleven o'clock the same night, and gave us a pointed description of a most borrible scene indeed ! the substance, and every material particular of whose report, are contained in the foUowingrelation, which includes the remarks of those who attended Mr. Burney. On Saturday the 18th, pursuant to our erders, we left the ship, about nine o'clock in the morning. Having? u light breeze in our favour^ we soon got round Lung Island and Long Point. We continued sailing and rowing for East Bay, keeping close in shore, and examining with our glasses every cove •n the larboard side, till near two o'clock in the afternoon, at which time we stopped at a beach on our left, going u|) East Bay, to dress our dinner. Whi'.e we were cooking we saw an Indian on the opposite shore, vunning along a beach to tiie head of the bay ; and when our meat was just done, we perceived a company of the natives, seem- ingly very busy ; upon seeing which, we got immediately into the boat, put oiF, and rowed quickly to the place wnere the sa- vages were assembled, which was at the liead of this beach ; and here, while ap- proaching, we discerned one of their settle- ments. As we drew near some of the In- dians came down upon the rocks, and waved for us to depart ; but perceiving we disregarded them, they altered their gestures, and wild notes. At this place we observed six large canoes hauled upon the beach, most of them being double ones; but the number of people were in proportion neither to the size of these canoes, nor the number of houses. Our little compan>[, consisting of the corporal, and his five marines, headed by Mr. Burney, now landed, leaving the boat's crew to guard it. Upon our approach, the natives fled with great precipitation. We followed them closely to a little town, which we found deserted ; but while we were employed in searching their huts, the natives returned, making a shew of resist- ance ; but some trifling presents being made to their chiefs, tliey were very soon appeased. However, on our return to the boat, the lavages agaiu followed us, and some of them 4 threw stones. As we came down lo tfie beach, one of the Indians had brought » bundle of Hepatnos, or long spears, but seeing Mr. Burnev looked very earnestly at him, he walked about with seeming uncon. cern. Some of his companions appearing to be terrified, a few trifles were given to each of them. From the place where we now landed, the bay seemed to run a full mile N. N. W. where it ended in a long sandy beach. After dinner we took n view of tho country near the coast, with our glasses, but saw not a canoe, or signs of inhabitants after which we fired the wall-pieces, aj signals to the cutter, if any of the people should happen to be within hearing. We now renewed our search silong the eastsliore- and came to another settlement, where the Indians invited us ashore. We inquired of them about the cutter, but they pretended ignorance. They seemed very friendly, and sold us some fish. At about five o'clock in the afternoon, and within an hour aflter we had left thii place, w« t)pened a small bay adjoining to Grass Cove, and here we saw a large double canoe, just hauled upon the beach, with two men and a dog. The two savages, on see- ing us approach, instantly fled, which made us suspect, it was here we should have some tidings of the cutter. On landing, and ex* amining the canoe, the first thing we saw therein was one of our cutter's rullock ports, and some shoes, one of which, among the latter, was known to belong to Mr. Wood- house. A piece of flesh was found by one of our people, which at first was. thought to be some of the salt meat belonging to the cutter's men, but, upon exammation, we supposed it to be dogs flesh ; a most Iiorrid and undeniable proof soon cleared up our doubts, and convinced us we were anion^ no other than cannibals ; for, advancing further on the beach, we saw about twenty baskets tied up, and a dog eating a piece of broiled flesh, which, upon examinuig, we suspected to be human. We nut open the baskets, some of which were ♦• I of^roasted flesh, and others of fern-root, vhich servei them for bread. Searching others, we found more shoes, and a 'land, which was AND ROUND THE WORLD. 857 immediately known to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of our fore-castle men, it having been tatowed with the initials of his name. We now proceeded a little way :n the woods, but saw nothing else. Our next design was to launch the canoe, in- lending to destroy her ; but seeing a great 5moke ascending over the nearest hill, we made all possible haste to be with them before sun-set. At half after six we opened Grass Cove, where we saw one single, and three double canoes, and a great many natives assembled on the beach, who retreated to a small hill, ^tithin a ship's length of the water-side, where they stood talking to us. On the top of the high land, beyond the woods, was a lar^e fire, from whence all the way down the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a musquetoon was iired at one of the canoes, as we ima- jnned they might be full of men lying down ; tor they were all afloat, but no one was seen in them. Being doubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear, or a desire to decoy us into an ambuscade, we were de- termined not to be surprised, and therefore running close in shore, we dropped the grappling near enough to reach them with our guns ; but at too great a distance to be tinder any apprehensions from their treachery. The savages on the little hill, kept their ground, hallooing, and making si^ns for us to land. At these we now took aim, resolv- inir to kill as man^ of them as our bullets would reach ; yet it was some time before we could dislodge them. The first volley did not seem to afl«ct them much ; but, on the second, they began to scramble away as fast as they could, some howling and others limping. We continued to fire as long as we could see the least glimpse of any of them, [through the bushes. Among these were two very robust men, who maintained their ground without moving an inch, till they found themselves forsaken by all their companions, and then, disdaining to run, they marched ofi", ?with great composure >nd deliberation. One of them, however, eot a fall, and either lay there, or crawled I ^vtay on bis hands and leet ; but the other 6 escaped without any apparent hurt. Mr. Burney now improved their panic, and, sup ported by the marines, leapt on shore, and pursued the fugitives. We had not adva'^'&v ed far from the water-side, on the beach* before we met with two bunches of celery, which had been gathered by the cutter's crew. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes; whereby we were convinced this was the spot where the attack had been made. We now searched all along at the back of the beach, to see if the cutter was there, but, instead of her, the most horrible scene was presented to our view, that was ever beheld by any European ; for here lay the hearts, heads, and lungs, of several ol our people, with hands and limbs, in a mangled condition, some broiled, and some raw ; but no other parts of their bodies* which; made us suspect, that the cannilMiU had feasted upon, and devoured tlie rest. To complete this shocking view of carnage and barbaritjr, at a little distance we saw thedogs gnawing theirentrails. We observed a large body of the natives collected toge- ther on a hill, about two miles off; but, as night drew on a-pace, we could not ad< vance to such a distance ; neither did ws think it sate to attack them, or even to quit the shore, to take an account of the number killed, cur troop being a very small one, and the savages were both numerous, fierce, and much irritated. While we remained almost stupified on the s(>ot, Mr. Fannen said, that he heard the cannibals assembling in the woods ; on which we returned to our boat, and, having hauled alongside the ca- noes, we demolished three of them. Dur- ing this transaction, the fire on tVie top of the hill disappeared, and we could near the .savages in the woods at high words; a uarrelling, perhaps, on account of their iflTerent opinions, whether they should attack us, and try to save their canoes. They were armed with long lances, and weapons, not unlike a Serjeant's halbert in shape, made of hard wood, and mounted with bone instead of iron. We suspected* that the dead bodies of our people had been divided;! among those different parties oi ;,fw'l ivm 858 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, cannibals, who had been concerned m the massacre; and it was not imprubable, that the group we saw at a distance by the fire, were leastinj? ii|>on some of them, as those on shore had been, where the remains were foinul, before they had been disturbed by e that as it may, we could discover no traces of more than four of our friends' bodies, nor corld we find the place where the cutter was concealed. It now grew dark, on which account, we col- lected carefully the remains of our mangled friends, and putting off, made the best of onr way iVoin this j)ci luted place, not with- out a few execrations hestowed on the blood- thirsty inhabitants. When we opened the upper part of the sound, we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete oval, reachmg from the top of a hill down almost to the water side; the middle space being mclosed all round by the fire, like a hedge. Mr. Bur- iiey and Mr. Fannen having consulted to- gether, they were both of opinion, that we could, by an attempt, reap no other advan- tage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. Upon leaving Grass Cove, we had fired a vollev towards where we heard the Indians talking: but by goit)g in and out of the boat, our pieces had got wet, and four of them missed fire. What rendered our situation more critical was, it began to rain, and our ammunition was more than half expended. We, for these reasons, without spending time where nothing could be hoped for but revenge, proceeded for the ship, and arrived safe aboard betbre midnight. Such is the ac- count of this tragical event ; the poor victims were far enough out of hearing, and in all Srobubility every man of them must have een butchered on the spot. It may be proper here to mention, that the whole number of men in the cutter were ten, namely, Mr. Rowe, our first mate, Mr. Woodhouse, a midshipmun, Francis Mur- phy, quarter-master, James Sevilley, the Captain's servant, John Lavenangh, and Thomas ruard ; Milton, belonging to the after -u«.«, William Facey, Thomas Hill, Michael Bell, and Edward Jones, forecastle- 6 men. Most of these were the stoutest and most healthy people in the ship, having beca selected from our best seamen. Mr, Bur, ney's \rnriy brought on board the head o| the Captain's servant, with two hands, one belonging to Mr. Rowe, known by a hurt it had received ; and the other to Thoinai Hill, being marked with T. H. as before mentioned. These, with other mangled remains, were inclosed in a hammock, and with the usual ceremony observed .on board ships, were committed to the sea. ' Not any of their arms were found ; nor any of their clothes, except six shoes, no two of which were fellows, a frock, and a pair of trowsers. We do not tliink this melancholy catastrok phe was the effect of a premeditated plan, formed by the savages ; for two canoes came down, and continued all the forenoon in Ship Cove, and these Mr. Rowe met, and bartered with the natives for some fish. We are rather inclined to believe, that the bloody transaction originated in a quarrel with some of the Indians, which was de- cided on the spot ; or, our people rambling about too secure, and incautious, the fair- nessofthe opportunity might tempt them to commit the bloody deed ; and what might encourage them was, they had found out, that our guns were not infallible ; they had seen them miss fire ; and they knew, that when discharged, they must be loaded be- fore they could again do any execution, which interval of time they could take proper advantage of. From some circum« stances we concluded, that after their suc- cess, there was a general meeting on the east side of the Sound. We knew the Indians of Shag Cove were there, by a long single canoe, which some of our people with Mr. Rowe had seen four days in Shag Cove. Ai\er this shocking affair, we were detained four days in the Sound b) contrary winds, in which time we saw none of the inhabitants. It is a little remarkable, that Capt. Fur- neaux had been several times up Grass Cove with Capt. Cook, where they saw no inha- bitants, and no other signs of any, but s few deserted villages, which appeared as if thev had not been occupied for many years; and yet, in Mr. Burney's opinion, when h« entered the less than fif people. H coming, we tacked him ^ remained of from these would be ill and send a I On Tliuisi de|)arted fro Sound, hear delays we ha our sanguine ward, to cleai effected the baffled for ( winds before this interval c of the ten ra were sold bef( old sea custon till we got inl A( this time m southward, th( W. the weathi sea rnade a eo which was low continual strai were dry eithe latitude of 58 i!)h,fitude, we standing to the /ess. We saw this vast ocean, »t times we ine a seal or two, a On the 10th abreast of Ca fl deg. S: and liser in New Z< hme more than '>* longitude in l^ere continual naving opene< Jotir, we found «>•■ which reaso 'ent to make fc intending first t( «n}(itude of Ca ''»€ eastward of AND ROUND THE WORLD. 300 entered the Mme cove, there could not be winds came more from the north, and not less than fifteen hundred, or two thousand so strong and frequent from the westwariU people. Had they been apprized of his as usual, which brought on thick fowKf doming:, vve doubt not they would have at- weather ; so that for several days together* tacked him ; and seeinor nt>t a probability we were not able to make an observation* reinuined of any of our people being alive, the sun all the time not being visible. This from these considerations, we thought it weather lasted above a month, in whicb would be imprudent to renew tlie search, and send a boat up .i^ain. On Thursday, llie 23rd of December, we departed from, and made sail out of the Sound, lieartiiy vexed at the unavoidable time we were among a great many Islands of ice, which kept us constantly on the look out, for fear of running foul of them. Ouf I>eople now began to complain of colds and (mins in their limbs, on account of whiclt delays we had experienced, so contrary to \ye hauled to the northward, making the la our sanguine wishes. We stood to tiie east- titude jf 64 deg. S. We then steered to th« ward, to clear the straits, which we happily east, with an intention of finding the land effected the same evening, but we were laid down by M. Bouvet. As we advanced baffled for two or three days with light to f he east, the nights began to be dark, and winds before we could clear the coast. In Islands of ice became more numerous and dangerous. On the 3rd of March, we were in the lau titude of liou vet's discovery, and half ■ league to eastward of it ; but not perceiving the least sign of land, either now, or since we obtained this parallel, we gave over a further search after it, and hauled away to the northward. In our last track to the sea iTiu<]e a continual breach over' the ship, southward, we were within a few degrees of wkicli was low and deep laden, and by her the longitude assigned for Bou vet's disco- continual straining, very few of our seamen very, and about 3 deg. to the southward ; if were dry either on deck or in bed. In the therefore there should be any land there- latitude of 58 deg. S. and in 213 deg. E. about, it must be a very inconsiderable Is- I'on-dtude, we fell in with some ice, and land ; or, rather we are inclined to think, at standing to the east, saw every day more or mere deception from the ice ; for, in our less, we saw also the birds common in first setting out, we concluded we had made this interval of time, the chests and effects of the ten men who had been murdered, were sold before the mast, acc;itude of Cape Circumcision. When to returned the full ctompliment, and the Uie eastward ot Cape Horni we found the former, as usual, saluted us with two stun*) 7 I.':'" i s«o VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE. 1«S8. At this place Capt. Furneaux left ingly extending from east to west. These A letter for Capt. Cook ; und here we facts, and the observations made by Capt remained to refit the ship, refresh the peo- Cook, corroborate each other ; and, thoiigh I»le, &c. &c. till the 16tn of April, when we they do not reduce the question to an abso. loisted sail for England ; and on the 14th lute certaint3r, yet the probability is greatly of July, to the great joy of all our sailors, in favour of the sup|M)sed discovery. To anchored at Spithead. conclude these reflections, and to place the From a review of the whole, our readers character of our judicious navigator in the must see, how much this nation is indebted most striking point of view, we need univ to that able circumnavigator Capt. Cook, add, as proposed, an incontested account ot If they only compare the course the Reso- the means, by which, under the divinv lution steered, and the valuable discoveries favour, Capt. Cook, with a company ut'oiii< she made, with that pursued by the Adven- hundred and eighteen men, performed ,t ture, after she parted company, the contrast voyage of three years and eiji^hteen days, wi^l be sufiiciently striking. How merito- throughout all the climates, from 52 deg-. rious also must that person appear in our N. to 71 deg. S. with the loss only of one judgment, who hath not only discovered, man by sickness ; and even this one bepfan but surveyed vast tracks of new coasts ; who so early to complain of a cough, and other has inspelled the illusion of a terra australis consumptive symptoms, which had never incognita, and fixed the bounds of the ha- left him, that his lungs must have been bitable earth, as well as those of the naviga- aflected before he came on board to go the ble ocean, in the southern hemisphere. No voyage. Did any, most conversant in the proposition was ever more clearly demon- bills of mortality, whether in the most healthful climate, and in the best condition of life, ever find so small a list of deaths, among such a number of men within that space ? How agreeable then must our sur- strated, that thare is no ''rntinent undis- covered in the southern herai ;e, between the equator and the dOth • ^ jf southern latitude, in which space all who have con- tended for its existence have included, if prize be, to find, Inr the assiduity and unre<» not the whole, at least the most considera- mitted exertions of a single skilnil navigator, ble part. But, at the same time that we the air of the sea acquitted of all malignity, declare ourselves thus clearly convinced of and.that a voyage round the world.has been the non-existence of a continent within the undertaken with less danger, perhaps, to limits just mentioned, we cannot help ac- health, than a common tour m Europe! knowledging our ready belief, that the land Surely distinguished merit is here conspi' our navigators have discovered, to the S. £. cuous, though praise and glory belong to of Staten Land, is part of a continent, pro- God only ! jecting from the north, in a narrow neck, and expanding to the southward and west- ward, in like manner as the South American Continent takes its rise in the south, and enlarges a» it advances northward, more particularly towards the east. In this be- lief we are strengthened by the strong re- presentation of land seen at a distance by our navigators, in latitude 72 deg. and 252 - - . _ ^-, . deg. longitude, and by the report ofTlieo- hath for its object the saving the lives of dore Gerrards, who, aflier passing the straits men, it will be necessary to say something- of Magellen, being driven by. tempests into on that disorder to which seamen are pecu- the latitude of 64 deg. S. in that height came liarly subject ; and to consider, how many in sight of u mountainous country, covered have perished by marine diseases, before with ^ow« looking like Norway, and seem- any considerable in&provemeats were mad* 8' Rules for preserving the Health of Sea- men in long Voyages ; and tlie Meant employed by Capt. Cook, to that End, during his Voyage Round the World, in his Majesty's Ship the Resolution. Before we en>ter upon this subject, which til the mea cure. Tfi( aarioers, a of which pr it the scun erroneously belongs to i enttrom it. opinion froi *' there are i fsom a scort lailors, and < more particu use a salt an they live in i tre inclined ( jess frequent is another vu the cause of t chip, cleanlin visions woui< the sea-coast, hjtaiits are n tlioiiffh frequi the sea. We si ascribe the sci heheve it to bt whole habit, si siihstance whe heen verified hiitic sick, an hodies after J'litrityingqua mat salted me "1 reality putri l"ng palatable common salt, strongest prese at best, but au larjfe quantify irom impeding motes that proc of opinion, that to mtense cold, and hence, sa distemper of th' iarly of those ar IS partly t»ue; the cause. In tl ^onjr uud sever] destitute of past! AND ROUND THE WORLD. ^61 til the means either of their prevention or cure. The sickness most uestriictive to narinerst and against the dreadful attacks of which preservatives have been contrived, is the scurvy. This is not that distemper fiToneously so called, among landsmen ; but belongfs to a class of diseases totally diflfer- ent from it. So far is the common received opinion from beingr true, which affirms, *' there are tew constitutions altogether free from a scorbutic taint," that, unless among: tailors, and others, circumstanced like them, more particularly with respect to those who use a salt and putrid diet, and especially if they live in foul air and uncleanliness, we are inclined to think there are few disorders less frequent. Nor do we believe, which is another vulgar notion, that the sea-air is the cause of the scurvy ; since, on board a ship, cleanliness, ventilation, and fresh pro- visions would preserve from it, and upon tlie sea-coast, free from marshes, the inha- bitaiits are not liable to that disorder, thoii!;h frequently breathing the air from the sea. We should, for these reasons, rather ascribe the scurvy to other causes ; and we believe it to be a beginning corruption of the whole habit, similar to that of every animal substance when deprived of life. This has been verified by the symptoms in the scor- l)iitic sick, and by the appearances in their bodies after death. With respect to the putrifying quality of sea-salt, we may remark, that salted meats, after some time, become ill reality putrid, though they may continue long: palatable, by means of the salt ; and common salt, supposed to be one of the strongest preservatives from corruption, is, at best, but au iudiiferent one, even in a iar^'e quantitv ; and is a small one, so far from impeding putrefaction, it rather pro- motes that process in the body. Some are of opinion, that the scurvy is much owing to intense cold, which checks perspiration ; and hence, say they, arises the endemic distemper of the northern nations, particu- larly of those around the Baltic. The fact is partly ti ue ; but we are doubtful about the cause. In these countries, by reason of lon^ and severe winters, the cattle, being destitute of pasture, can barely live, aod arc - 3 A therefore unfit for use ; so that the people* for their provisions, during that season, arc obliged to kill them by the end of autumn, and to salt them for above half the year. This putrid diet then, on which thejr must so long^ subsist, seems to 'be the chief sourse from whence the disease originates. And if we consider, that the lowest class of people in the north, have few or no greens nor fruit, in winter, little or no fermented liquors, and oflen live in damp, foul, and ill- aired houses, it is easy to concf'ive, how they should become liable to the same dis- order with seamen ; whereas, others, who live in as high a latitude, but in a difl'erent manner, are free from it. Thus ue are in- formed b> Linn»us, that the Laplanders are unacquainted with thescurvv ; for which no other reason can be assigned, than their never eating salted meats, nor indeed salt with any thing, but their using all the fresh flesh of th'.iii' rein-deer. And this exemption o''the hypeiborean nations from the general d stemper of the north, is the more remark- abie, as they seldom taste vegetables, and bread never. Yet in the very provinces bordering on Lapland, where they use bread, but scarcely any vegetables, and eat salted meats, they are as much troubled with the scurvy as in any other country. But here we may properly observe, that the late improve- ments in agriculture, gardening, and hns« bandry, by extending their salubrious in- fluence to the remotest parts of Europe, and to the lowest class of people, begin sensibly to lessen the frequency of that com.plaint, even in those climates wherein it has been most brief and fatal. Again, it has been asserted, that those who live on shore, of landsmen, will be aflected with the scurvy, though they may have never been confined to salt meats : but of this we have not met with any instances, except among such who have breathed ^ marshy air, or what was otherwise putrid ; or among those who wanted exercise, fruits, and the common vegetables ; under which particular circum- stances we grant, that the humours will cor- rnpt in the same manner, though not in the same degree, with those of seamen. In th« war, when SiuDghurst Castle in Kent, waf ,.,..m .;)! "Hi- p;f^ t V If . 1^, ■ 9^ VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, filled with French prisoners, the scurvy broke out among them, notwithstanding^ they liad never been served with salted vic- tuals in England, but had daily an allow- nnce of fresh meat, and bread in projiortion, fhongh without vegetables*. And besides the want of this necessary suppiv of greens, the wards were crowded and foul, the house damp, by reason of a circumambient moat, and the bounds alUtted fortakingtheair were so small, and in wet weather so swampish, that the men seldom were disfwsed to quit the house. A representation having been made of these denciencies, in consequence thereof the prisoners were supplied with roots and greens for boiling in their broth, the sick were quartered out in a dry situa- tion, where they had the liberty of air and exercise; and by these means they all quickly recovered. We think it probable Uiat the scurvy sooner appeared among these strangers, from their having been talcen at sea. and tiierefore, from tlieir diet, they were ihore disposed to thjB disease. Such is the nature and cause of that sickness most de- structive to sailors. Let us now take a transient view of its i^lreadful ravages ; and by a contrast between the old and present time, we shall see, more evidently, the importance and value of the means proposed, and which have been most successfully employed by Capt. Cook, for its preventaon and cure. In the first Voyaure for the establishment of the East-India Company, a squadron was fitted out, and under the command of Lancaster (who was then stded general) in the year 1601. The equipment consisted of four ships, with four hundred and eighty men on board. Three of those ve.*sels were so weakened by the scurvy, when they hadgotonly 3 deg. beyond the equinoctial line, that the merchants, who had embarked on this adventure, were obliged to do duty as common sailors. At sea, on shore, and at Soldania. .the then place of refreshment on this side tiie Cape of Good Hope, there died in all, nearly a fourth part of their complement, and that before they had proceeded half way to the place of tlieir dfitination. Sir William Haw- Kins, who lived in that age, an intelligent 2 and brave sea-ofiicer, has left it upon record, "ihat in twenty years, during which lie had used the sea, he could give an account of ten thousand mariners who had been con- humed by the scurvy alone." I**thfr. ..i the very infancy ot the naval power of £n«; land, so many were destroyed by that bane of sea' faring men, what must have been the havoc made since that earlv date, while our fleet has been gradually increasing, nevr ports for commerce of>ening, and yet so little advancement made in the nautical part of medicine. And within our own remem- brance, when it might have been expected that whatever tended to aggrandize the naval power of Great Britain, and to extend her conimerct:', would have received the highest improvement: yet, even at thest latter dates, we shall find few measures were adopted to preserve the health of seamen, more than had been known to our unin- formed ancestors. The successful hut mournful expedition of Commodore Anson, afterwards an admiral, and lord, afibrds a melancholy proof of the truth of this asser- tion. After having pased the straits of La- maire, the scurvy began to rage violently in this little squadron ; and by the time the Centurion had advanced but a little way into the South Sea, forty^seven sailors died of it in that ship ; nor were there scarely any on board, who had not, in some degree, been touched with the distemper, though they had not at that time been quite eight months from England. In the ninth month, when abreast of the island of Juan Fer- nandez, the Centurion lost double that num- ber ; and such an amazing swift projiiess did the mortality make in this single ship, that before they landed on that Island she had buried two hundred of her hands; not being able to muster any more in a watch, capable of doing duty, than two quarter masters, and six foremast-men. This was the condition of one of the three ships which reached that Island ; and the other two sutfered in proportion. Nor did the de- stroyer stop here his cruel ravages, but, after a few months respite, renewed his attaclis; for the same disease broke out afresh, mak ing such havoc, that be£6re the Centurion (in which v oftjie three Tinian, the s day, so th years on tin proportion t nal number entered the we apnrehe case ; but tl tality was a distinguishe jail, ur hos| observations Anson's sur acuryy at th putrid fever whether the it, uere the litv in Lord scknowleds. p Dtiier sourcei may now, in by the vario time of that i leads us, in d principal artii thods emplo3 brave comni mention all most useful., stores, shall b I. Sweet w( one to three tion as the only to those toms of the sc judged to be si ways been . Corbutics ; bu air from the inis was thoi voyages, as it the beer, and ence has since the medical jo to the Resolnt »aj?e, which fi of Capt. Cook wort, as being cine yet know s AND ROUND THE WOIIIJ). 369 (in which wfre tlie tvbole surviviiiv: crews ofthe three sliips) hud reaclieil the IkIuiiU of Tiiiian, there dietl sumetiineH ei^ht ur ten in I (iuy, so that when (hey had been only two vfurs on their voyage, tiiey had lost a larger proportion than of tonr in five of their origi- oal number, and all of them after having entered the Sonth Sea, of the scnrvy ; but we apprehended this was not strictly the case ; but that the cause of so great a mor- tality was a pestilential kind of distemfier, distinguished on land by the name of the jail, or hospital fever : and indeed, in the observations made by two of Commodore Anson's surgeons, it is affirmed, that the gctirvy at that time was accompanied with putrid fevers ; however, it is not material, whether the scurvy, or fever combined with it, were the cause of the destructive morta- lity in Lord Anson's fleet, since it must be Rcknowled!.''d both arose from foul air, and other sources of putrefaction ; and which may now, in a great measure, be obviated, by the various means fallen upon since the time of that expedition : and this naturally leads us, in due order, to take a view ofthe principal articles of provision, and other me- thods employed by that ,prudent, as well as brave commander, Capt. Cook. We shall mention all such articles as were found the most useful,; and in tliis list of preservative stores, shall begin with I. Sweet wort. This was distributed, from one to three pints a day, of in such propor< tion as the surgeon judged necessary, not only to those men who had manifest symp- toms ofthe scurvy, but to such also as were judged to be most liable to it. Beer hath always been esteemed one ofthe best antis- corbutics ; but as that 'derived all its fixed air from the malt of which it was made, Jtiis was tliought to be preferable in long voyages, as it would take up less room than the beer, and keep longer sound. Experi- ence has since verified the theory ; and in the medical journal of Mr. Patten, surgeon to the Resolution, we find the following pas. sa(;e, which fully corroborates the testimony of Capt. Cook and others, in favour of sweet wort, as being the best antiscorbutic medi- cine yet known. *' I have foond (observes this gentleman) llie'wort of iiifMitinnst ser- vice in all scorbutic rases during the voyage. As many took it by way of prevention, few cases occurred where it had a fair iriul ; but these, however, I flutter myself, will be suf- ficient to convince every inipartiiil person, it is the best remedy hitherto found out for the cure of tlie sea scurvy ; and I am well convinced, from what 1 have seen the wort perform, and from its mode of operation, that if aided by portable soup, {;onr krcmt, su^ar, sago, and currants, the scurvy, that muritiuie pestilence will seldom, or never make its appoarance among a ship's crew, on the lon^e't voyages ; proper care with regard to cleanliness and provisions being observed." It hath been constantly observed by cnr sea- surgeons, that in long cruizes, or distant voy- ages, the scurvy never make its alarming uiu pearance, so long as the men have their fidl allowance of small beer ; but that when it is all expended, the disorder soon prevails; it were therefore to be wished, that our ships would afford sufficient room for this wliole« some beverage. But, we are informed, tlie Russians both on board, as welt as on land, make the following middle quality between wort and small beer. I'hey take ground malt and rye meal in a certain pro|H>rtion, which they knead into small loaves, and bake in the oven. The.se they ^ infuse occa- sionally in a proper quantity of warm water, which begins so soon to ferment, that in the space of twenty-four hours their brewage is completed, and a small, brisk, acetous liquor produced, to which they iiave given the name of quas. Dr. Mounsey, who Jived long in Russia, in writing to his friends in £ng^ land, observes, that the quas is the common and salutary drink both of the fleets and ar- mies of that empire, and that it was pecu- liarly good. The same gentleman having visited the several prisons in the city of Mus- cow, was surprised to find it full of malefac- tors, but more so when he could discover no fever among them, nor learn that any acute distemper, peculiar to jails, had ever beeii known there. He observed that some of those places for confinement had a yard lor the use ofthe prisoners, but in others without that adfantage* they ;were not sickly : s« 1 m 1 i i'lll "k'Sj W't E!' m & ^ifsm J^] though he availed himself sometimes of the invention, he did not rely on it, finding by experiments, that lie could not obtain by this means near so much as was expected. This was no disappointment to him, since within thesouthepn tropic, in the Pacific Ocean, tte discovered so many Islands, all %vell stored with wholesome springs; and when in the high latitudes, far from a single fountain, he found the hardships and dangers inseparable from the frigid zone, in some de- gree compensated by the singular felicity he -enjoyed, of extracting inexhaustible supplies of fresh water from an ocean strewed with ice. Those very shoals, fields, and floating moun- tains -of ice, among which he steered his •perilous course, and which presented such •terrifying objects of destruction, were the very means of his support, by supplying him abundantly with what he most wanted. That all frozen water would thaw into fresh, was a. paradox that had been asserted, but met with little 'Credit : even Capt. Cook himself •expected no such transmutation ; and there- fore was agreeably surprised to find he had one dilficulty less to encounter^ namely, that of preserving the health of his men so long on salt and putrid provisions, with a scanty allowance of, perhaps, foul water, or only what he could obtain by the use of the still. An ancient writer, of great authority, no less than one of the Pliny's, had assigned, from theory, bad qualities to melted snow ; bu^ 4)ur judicious commander affirms, that melted ice of tlie sea is not only fresh, but soft, and so wholesome as to shew the fallacy of human reason, unsupported by ex|)eriments. And what is vory remarkable, though in the midst ofsleets,' tails of snow, thick fogs, and much iinoist weather, the Resolution enjoyed nearly the same state of health, she had experieuv-'ed ■in the temperate and torrid zones. Indeed, towards the end of the several courses, some •f the mariners began to complain of the ftcurvy, but this disease made littlo |)roi>Tess ; vor were other di:iorders, as colds, diarrhceas, 8 intermittents, and continued fevers, either numerous, alarming, or fatal. Nor, must we omit hert, the remark of a celebrated phy. sician, who justly observes, " that much com< mendation is due to the attention and abili. ties of Mr. Patten, the surgeon of the Reso- lution, forhavingsowellseconded his Captain in the discharge of his dut)r. For it must be allowed, that in despite of the best regula. tions, and the best provisions, tliere will aU ways be, among a numerous crew, during a long voyage, some casualties, more or less productive of sickness, and unless there be an intelligent medical assistant on board, many under the wisest commander, wilj perish, that otherwise might have been saved. We shall observe, once more, IX. That Capt. Cook was not only careful to replenish whenever opportunity permitted, his casks with water ; but he provided his men with all kinds of refreshments, both animal and vegetable, that he could meet with, and b^ every means in his power: the.se, even if^not pleasing to the palate, he obliged his people to use, both by example and authority ; but the benefits arising from refreshments of any kind, soon became so obvious, that be had little occasion to recom- mend the one, or exert the other. Thus did this expert and humane navigator employ all the means and regulations, which the art of man suggested, or the God of nature provided for the most benevolent purpose, even thai of preserving the health and lives of those in- trusted to his care. Here is greater meritthan a discovery of frozen, unknown countries could have claimed ; and which will exist, in the opinion of every benevolent mind, a sub. ject of admiration and praise, when the dis- {)utes about a southern continent, shall no onger engage the attention, or divide the judgment of philosophical inquirers. This is amemorialmorelastingthanthemimicbustor the emblazoned medal ; for this can never perish, but will remain engraven on thebearts ofEitglishmen to their latest posterity. May future navis^'itors spring out of this brit^htex- ar pie, not only to |)erpeluate his justly ac- quired fame, but to imitate hislaboursforthe advancement of natural kuowleitge, the good of society, and the true glory of Great Britaiik '- ' ^-J-■^ • ^f i* J^arth ^oic m * I! mm^mm % "iP"!" ',-r TH Containing^ an natives of a % ■m. IM/'E are n< ■ T br cJis( less than to fij continents that ivliich, thouj^h 5 pearances conn to shew the imi aefe, and to fur subscribers, and Miagnitnde of \ tuliea cursory vi Hliich former em and whereon tl operations were tiilation of the plainly, how mu Jntrepid navai o jno have exteni "le contents of tr nf" ecember, be sailed from Calloa with two for discovery. He sailed eight hundred ships and a tender. Luis Paz de Torres leagues westward from the coast of Peru, wa.s entrusted with the command, and and fell in with certain Islands in the lati- Quiros, from zeal for the success of the im- tude of 11 deg. S. and Capt. Cook inclines dertaking-, was contented to act in the iiife. to the opinion, that they are the cluster rior station of pilot. which comprises what has since been called Quiros, soon after his return, presented a New Britain, &c. Mendamo was also said memorial to Philip II. of Spain, in which to have discovered, in 1575, the Jsland of he enumerates twenty-three Islands that he St. Christoval, and not far from hence, the had discovered, among which was the Is- Archipelago, called the Islands of Solomon, land of the Virgin Mary, and adjoining to it ofwhich great and small he counted thirty three parts of the country called Australia three. del Espiritu Santo, in which land were found In 1577, Sir Francis Drake, who was the the bay of St. Philip and St. Jago. first Englishman that passed the straits of In 1614 Georire Spitzbergen with a stron? Magellan, discovered the Island of Cali- squadron of Dutch ships passed the strails fornia, which he named New Albion. He or Magellan ; and in 1615 Schouten and also discovered other small Islands in his Le Maire, in the Unity of 360 tons, and the route to the 43rd deg. of N. latitude, but as Hoorn of 110 sailed from the Texel, on tha his sole view was to return with his booty, 14th of June professedly for the discovery he paid no regard to objects of less concern, of a 'new passage to the South Sea. The He arrived in England, by the Cape of Hoorn was burnt, in careening, at King's Good Hope, in the year 1580. To him Island, on the coast of Brazil, and the other succeeded Sir Thomas Cavendish, who like- left singly to pursue her voyage. In lati- wise passed the straits of Magellan in 1580, tude 54 deg. 56 min. they came in sight of and returned nearly by the same route point- an opening, to which, (having happily jias^r ed out by his predecessor, touching at the ed it) they gave the name of Strait le Maire. Ladrones, and making some stay at the Having soon after weathered the southern- Philippine Isles, ofwhich, on his return, pave an entertaining description. ' In Lr)95, the Spaniards intent more o he on most point of the American continent, they callecl that promontory Cape Horn, or more properly Hoorn, after the town in Hoi land «'liere tlie itnd two they nam vered seve side of Ne In 1042 viii in the Zee Haan ing' the Soi he made ^ JFfoIland, s Diemun's l; tilde to thi westernmos the greatest were innrde tvhich he g-:; called by oi jotte's SouE with the 1 Middleburg, inq: his cour« eialileen or t 17 deg-. 19 Ml in. to vvhic ^Filliam's Isl From 1 hence New Guinea posed con tin on the 15th In 1681 D Straits, and age on discov to New Holh and the Islan formed a tliii any new disc in this voya!jf( circumnaviga In 1721, th •it the instan( out a respectL that continen thoiisfh believ «tont ships wi provitled for mn^ and 11 harked Uoird mxle.- him cl n;ivinfafor; thf 100 men, of wl AND ROUND TlIE WORLD, ^n rt'here the project was first secretly concerted ; {inii two Islands which they had passed, tl)ey named Bern«ivelt. They also disco- vered i^everal others, and coasted the north side of New Britain. In 1042 Abel Tasman sailed from Bata- yia in the Heeniskirk, accompanied by the Xee Ilaan pink, with a design of discover- inir the Southern Continent. The first land lie made was the eastern point of New Holland, since known b^ the name of Van Dieman's land. Proceeding in a high lati- tude to the eastward, he fell in with the westernmost coast of New Zealand, where the greatest part of the crew of the Zee Haan were murdered by the savages of a bay, to wliich he gave the name of Murderer's Bay, called by our late navigators Queen Char- lotte's Sound. In his passage he fell in with the Isles of Pylstaert, Amsterdam Middleburg, and Rotterdam. Tf en direct- in? his course to the N. W. he discovered eighteen or twenty small Islands, in latitude 17" deg. 19 niin. S. longitude 201 deg, 35 min. to which he gave the name of Prince William's Islands, and Heeraskirk's Banks. From tlience Tasman pursued his course to New Guinea, without discovering the sup- posed continent ; and returned to Batavia on the 15th of June 1643. In 1681 Dampier passed the Magellanic Straits, and in 1699 he made a second voy- age on disc«>verv, which was chiefly confined to New Holland, New Guinea, New Britain, and the Islands adjacent. In 1703, he per- formed a third voyage, but without making any new discoveries. He .was accompanied in this voyage by Mr. Funnel, to whom the circumnavigation of the globe is ascribed. In 1721, the Dutch East-India Company, at the instance of Capt. Roggewein, fitted out a respectable fleet, for the discovery of that continent, which lay hitherto unknown, though believed universally to exist. Three stout ships were appointed, and were well provided for this service; the Eagle of 36 jfnns and 111 men, on board of wliich em- harked Roggewein as commodore, having iiiuler hiui Captain Coster, an experienced navijiator; the Tienhoven of 28 guns, and 100 men, of which Capt, Bowman was com- 3 mander ; and the African Galley, command* ed by Captain Rosenthall. From these ex- perienced navigators every thing was hope^ riiey found the straits of Magellan im|»rac- ticable, anJ entered the Southern Ocean, after having endured a variety of difliculties and hardships, by the strait le Maire. Rog. gewein pursued nearly the same track as Schouten had nointed out, till, veering more to the north, he fell in with the Islands at which commodore Byron first landed, and where some of the wreck of the African Galley, as we have mentioned in the history of his voyage, was actually found. Pursu- ing their course to the westward, they dis- covered a cluster of Islands, ndoubtedly the same now called the Friendly Isles, to which they gave the name of the Labyrinth, because it was with difficulty they could clear them. They continued their course towards New Britain, and New Guinea; and thence by the way of the Moluccas to the East Indies ; and thus ended, like all the former voyages, one of which was ex- Cected at least to have solved the question, ut, in fact determined nothing : yet they who argued from the harmony observable in the works of nature, insisted that some- thing was wanting to give one side of the globe a resemblance to the other; while those who reasoned from experience, pro- nounced the whole system the creature of the fertile brain. In 1738 Lazier Bouvet was sent by the East India Company, upon discovery in the Southern Atlantic Ocean. He sailed from Port rOrient on the 19th of July, on board the Eagle, accompanied by the Mary, and on the 1st of January following, it was thought he had discovered land in latitude 54 deg. south, longitude 11 min. east. But this having been diligently sought for by Capt. Cool;, without eflect, there is g:ooa reason to doubt if any such exists; or, if it does, it is too remote from any known tract to be of use to trade or navigation. In 17^ Commodore Anson traversed the Great Pacific Ocean ; but he made no discoveries within the limits of our review. We come now to that interesting aera, when the spirit of discovery recovered neif 373 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. strength^ under the cherishing influence and munificent enconraKement of his present Majesty, George 111. who havint^ put a Ceriod to thedestructive operations of war, e tnrned his attention to enterpriser more adapted to the season of returning peace. His M^uesty formed the ^rand desij^n of explorinsr the Southern Hemisphere ; and in the prosecution of an object so well adapted to the views of a great conimerical people, one voyage- followed another in close suc- cession. In 1764, Captain, now admiral Byron, having under his command the Dolphin^ and Tamar, passed throuufh the straits of Magellan, into the Pacific Ocean ; " where he discovered several Islands, and returned to England in May, 1766. In the month of August fuilowing, the Dolphin was again sent out under the command of Captain Wallis, with the Swallow sloop, commanded by Capt. Carteret. They proceeded toge- ther till they came to the west end of the ■traits of Magellan, and in sight of the Great South Sea, where they were separated. Capt. Wallis directed his course inore^ west- erly than any navigator had done before in fio high a latitude ; discovered not less than fourteen new Islands ; and returned to Eng- land with the Dolphin, in May 1768. His companion Capt. Cartaret kept a difl^erent route, made other discoveries, among which was the strait between New Britain and New Ireland. He returned with the Swal- low to England, after having encountered innumerable difficulties, in March 1769. lu the same year and month, commodore Bougainville, having ciicumnavigated the globe, arrived in France. In 1769, the Spaniards sent out a ship to trace the discoveries of the English and French ronimanders, which arrived at Ota- heite in 1771. Thisship touched at Easter Island, but whether she returned to New or Old Spain remains undecided. In the same year 1769, the French also fitted out ano- ther ship from the Mauritius, under the command of Capt. Kergulen, who, having discovered a few barren Islands, contented himself with leaving some memorials that were found by Capt, Cook. To this di«- 4 tinguished navigator was reserved the honour of bnng the first, who from a series of the most s.^tisfactory olwirvations, hp^yjn- ing at the west /^ntrance of the strait of Ma. gellan, and carriev' on with unwearied per- severance round Terra del Fuego, through the strait of Le Maire, has constructed a chart of the southern extremity of America from which it will appear, what advantages will now be enjoyed by those who shall hereafter sail round Cape Horn. Captain Cook sailed from Plymouth, in August 1708, and returned home by the Cajie of Good Hope in July 1771. This experienced circumnavigator performed his second voy. age in the Resolution and Adventure. These two ships sailed from England in July 1772, and returned on the 3()th of the same month, in 1775. The general object of this and the preceding voyage round the world, undertaken by tlie command of \m Majesty, was to search for unknown tracts of land that might exist within the bosom of the immense expanse of ocean that occu- pies the whole southern hemisphere ; and, particularly to determine to a certainty, the existence or non-existence of a Southern Continent: and these voyage*; have t'urili. tated the access of ships into tlie Pacitic Ocean, and also greatly enlarged our knovr- led^e of its contents. Our late navigators, besides perfecting many of the discoveries of their predecessors, have added to them a long catalogue of their own. The several lands, of which any account had been given by the Spaniards or Dutch, h-.ive been car«- fully looked for, and most of them Ibund, visited, and accurately surveyed. The boast- ed Tierra Australia del Espiritu Santo of Quiros, as being a part of a southern conti- nent, could not withstand Capt Cook's exa- mination, who sailed ronnd it, and assigned its true position, and moderate bounds, in the Archipelago of the New Hebrides. Bougainville did no more than discover, that the land here was not connected ; but Ca|)t. Cook found it to be composed of Is- lands, and explored the whole group. Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, had each of them contributed towards increasing our know- led^ of tiMj amazing profu&ion of Islands AND ROUND THE WORLD. 373 (bat exiMt in tlift Pacific Ocean, within the limits of the southern tropic: but huw far that orean reached to the west, what hinds bounded it on that side, and the connection of those land** with the discoveries of former ni)vii;ator!«, remained absolutely unknown, till (^ap^* ^^f*^ decided the question, and broiigiit home such ample accounts of them and their inhabitants, as have left little more to he done in that part of the globe. It was a favourite coniectural opinion among geo- jfraphers, that New Zealand was a part of a s<^)iithern continent ; but Capt. Cook's voy- age in the Endeavour lias proved it to be a mere supposition ; for he spent near six months upon its coasts, circumnavigated it completely, and ascertained its extent and divisions into two Islands. Whether New Holland did or did not join to New Guinea was another question, which Capt. Cook decided, by sailing between them through Endeavour strait. He, therefore, in this part of his voyage, has established a fact of essential service to navigation, by opening, if not a new, at least an unfrequented and forgotten communication between the South- ern Pacific and Indian oceans. To Capt. Carteret we are indebted for a new disco- very, in the strictest sena« of the word. St. George's channel, through which his ship found a way, between New Britain and New Ireland, is a much better and shorter pas- sage, whether eastward or westward, than round all the Islands and lands to the north- ward. Thus far, therefore, the late voyages of our own co«mtrymen, to disclose new tracks of navigation, and to reform old de- fects in geography, appear to have been pro- secuted with a satisfactory degree of success. But something was still wanting to com- plete the great plan of discovery. The ut- most accessible extremities of the southern |, hemisphere had been repeatedly visited and surveyed : yet great variety of opinion pre- vailed concerning the navigable boundaries of our own hemisphere; particularly, as to the existence, or at least as to the practica- bility of a northern passage between the At- lantic and Pacific oceans, either by sailing rastwdrd round Asia, or westward round North America ; by which jKiasage, could it d be found, voyages to the East InHieii in ge- neral would be mu<'h shortened, and, conse- quently become more profitable, than by making the tedious circuit of the Cape of Gotul Hope. This favourite object of thft English, as early as the fifteenth century, appeared so certain to the Cubots, that the younger Sebastian made the original attempt to discover a N. W. passaj^e in 14f)7, which ended in the discovery of Newfoundland, and the Labradore coast. He returned by the way of Newfoundland, bringing liome with him two Rsquimeaux. In 1576, SirMartie by the end of October, or be- ginninc^ ot November next, and proceed to the southward in search of some Islancis sail! to have been lately seen by the French, ill the latitude 48 de^-. south, and under, or near the meridian of Mauritius. In case you find those Islands, you are to examine them thoroughly for a ^ood harbour ; and upon discoverinj? one, make the necessary obser- fations to facilitate the finding it again ; as a good port, in that situation, may hereafter f trove very useful, although it should afford ittie or nothing more than shelter, wood, and water. You are not, however, to spend too much time in looking out for those Is- lands, or in the examination of them, if found, but to proceed to Otaheite, or the Society Isles (touching at New Zealand rn your way thither, if you should judge it necessary and convenient) and taking care to arrive there time enough to admit of your giving the sloops companies the refreshment tliey may stand in need of, before you pro- secute the farther object of these instruc- tions. Upon your arrival at Otaheite, or the Society Isles, you are to land Omiah at such of them as he may choose, and to leave him there. " You are to distribute among the chiefs of those Islands such part of the presents with which you have been supplied, as you shall judge proper, reserving the remainder to distribute among the natives of the coun- tries you may discover in the northern he- misphere : and having refreshed the people belonging to the sloops under your com- mand, and taken on board such wood and water as they may respectively stand in need rf, you are to leave those Islands in the be- ginning of February, or sooner if you shall judge it necessary, and then proceed in as direct a course as you can to tlie coast of New Albion, endeavouring to fill in with it in the latitude of 4.'> deg. N. and taking care in your way thither, not to lose any time in search of new lands, or to stop at any you may fall in with, unless you find it necessary to recruit your- wood and water. "You are also in your way thither, strictly enj()ined not to touch upon any part of the Spanish dominions on the west- ern continent of America, unless driven thither by some unavoidable accident ; in which case you are to stay no longer there than shall be absolutely necessary ."^ and to be very careful not to give umbrage or of- fence to any of the inhabitants or subjects of his catholic iT^r-jesty. Aild if, in your farther progress .0 the northward, as here- after directed, you fiiid any subjects of any European prince or .state upon any part of the coast you may think proper to visit, you are not to disturb them, or give them any just cause of olTence, but on the contrary, to treat them with civility and friendship. " Upon your arrival on the coast of New Albion, you are to put into the first conve- nient port to recruit your wood and water, and procure refreshments, and then to pro- ceed northward along the coast, as far as the latitude of 65 deg. or farther, if you are not obstructed by lands or ice ; taking care not to lose any time in exploring rivers or inlets, or upon any other account, until you get into the before-mentioned latitude of 65 cleg, where we could wish to arrive in the month of June next. When you get that length, you are verv carefully to search for, and to explore such rivers, or inlets, as may appear to be of considerable extent, and pomtinjr towards Hudson's, or Baffin's bays, and if, from j^our own observations, or from any information you may receive from the natives (who, there is reason to believe are the same race of people, and speak the same language, of which you are furnished with . a vocabulary, as the Esquimeaux) there shall appear to be a certainty, or even a probability of a water passage into the afore-mentioned bays, or either of therp, you are, in such case, to use your utmost endeavours to puss through with one or I f liJiSi ;Wli ft 14 Wm ir fi'\]L 376 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NOKTH POLE, both of the sloops, unljss you shall be of , opinion that the passage may be effected with more certainty, or with greater proba- bility by smaller vessels ; in which case you are to set up the frames of one or both the small vessels with which you are provid- ed, and, when they are put together, and are properly fitted, stored, and victualled, you are to dispatch one or both of tiiem, under the care of proper officers, with a suf- ficient number of petty officers, men, and boats, in order to attempt the said passage ; with such instructions for rejoining you, if they should fail, or for their farther pro- ceedings, if they should fail, or for their farther proceedings, if they should succeed in the attempt, as you shall judge most proper. But, nevertheless, if you shall find it more eligible to pursue any other mea- sures than those above pointed out, in order to make a discovery of the before-mention- ed passage (if any such there be) you are at liberty ; and we leave it to your discretion, to pursue such measures accordingly. " But, should you be satisfied, that there is no passage through the bays, sufficient for the purposes of navigation, you are, at ' the proper season of the year, to repair to the port of St. Peter and St. Paul in Kami- schatka, or wherever else you shall judge more proper, in order to refresh your peo- ple cind pass the winter ; and in the spring . of the ensuing year, 1778, to proceed from tlience to the northward, as far as in your prudence, you may think proper, in further search of a north-east, or north-west pas- sage, from the Pacific Ocean, into the At- lantic, or north sea : and if, from your own obseivatJon, or any information you may receive, there shall appear to be a probabi- lity of such a passage, you are to proceed as above directed ; aiid having discovered such a passage, or failed in the attempt, make tlie best of your way back to E:igland, b}' such route as you may think bf st for the wnprovement of geography and navigation ; repairing to Spithead with both sloops, where they are to remain till further or- ders. '* And at whatever places you may touch in th« coarse of your voyage> where accurate observations of the nature hereafter mention^ ed have not already been made, you are, m far as your time will allow, very carefully to observe the situation of such places, both in latitude and longitude ; the variation of th« needle ; bearings of head-lands; height, dj, rection, and course of the tides and currents • depths, and soundings of the sea; shoals rocks, &c. and also to survey, make charts' and take views of such bays, harbours, and different parts of the coast, and to make such notations thereon, as may be useful either to navigation or commerje. You arg also carefully to observe the nature of the soil and the produce thereof; the animals and fowls that inhabit or frequent it ; the fishes that are to be foiMid in the rivers or upon tht coasts, and in what plenty ; and in cast there are any peculiar to such places, to de- scribe them minutely, and to make as accu- rate drawings of them as you can : and, if you find any metals, minerals, or valuable stones, or any extraneous fossils, you are to bring home specimens of each ; as also of the seeds of such trees, shrubs, plants, fruits and grains, peculiar to those places, as you may be able to collect, and to transmit them to our secretary, that proper experiments and examination may be made of them. You are likewise to examine the genius, temper, disposition, and number of the na- tives and inhabitants, where you find any; and to endeavour, by all proper means, to cultivate a friendship with them, making them presents of such trinkets as you may have on hoard, and they may like best; inviting them to traffic and shewing them every kind of civility and regard ; but taking care, nevertheless, not to suffer yourself to be surprised by them, but to be always on your guard against any accidents. " Vou are also, with the consent of the natives, to take possession, in the name of the King of Great Britain of convenient situations in such countries as you may dis- cover, that have already not been discovered or visited by any other European power; and to distribute among the inhabitants such things as will remain as traces and te:?timo- nies of your having been there; but if you find the countries so discovered are uninha- AND ROUND THE WORLD. 377 Med, you are to take possession of them for his MiU^^^y> ^y setting: up proper marks and inscriptions, as tirst discoverers and posses- sors. "But forasmuch as, in undertakings of this nature, several emergencies nay arise not to be foreseen, and therefore not particu- larly to be provided for by instructions be- fore-hand ; you are, in such cases, to pro- ceed as you shall judge most advantagcQus to the service on vi'hich you are employed : and you are, by all opportunities, to send to our secretary, for our information, accounts of your proceedings, and copies of the sur- veys and drawings you shall have made ; and upon your arrival in England, you are immediately to repair to this office, in order to lay before us a full account of your pro- ceedings in the whole course of your voyage ; taking care before you leave the sloop, to demand from the officers and petty officers, the log-books and journals they may have kept, and to seal them up for our inspection ; and enjoining them and the whole crew, not to divulge where they have been, until they have permission so to do : and you are to direct Capt. Gierke to do the same, wit h respect to the officers, petty officers, and crew of the Discovery. " Should any accident happen to the *«,e- golution, in the course of the voyage, so as to disable her from proceeding any farther, you are, in such, case to remove yourself and her crew into the Discovery, and to prose- cute your voyage in her; her commander being hereby strictly reqrfired to receive you on board, and to obey your orders, the same, in every respect, as when you were actually on board the Resolution : and, in case of your inability, by sickness or otherwise, to carry these instructions into execution, you are to be careful to leave them with the next officer in command, who is hereby re- quired to execute tUem in the best manner lie can. " The above instructions were given July the 6th, 1776, under the hands of the Earl of Sandwich, Lord C. Spencer, Sir H. Palliser ; and, by command of their Lord- ships, signed Philip Stephens, secretary of the admiralty." 3C In order to carry this noble and extensive plan into execution, on February the 14th, 1776, the Resolution and Discovery, having been completely equipped in the dock at Deptford, were put into commission. Capt. Cook hoii.>ted his pendant on board tne former sloops; and the command of the Discovery, of three hundred tons burthen, which had been purchased into the service, was given to Capt. Clerke, who had beep Capt. Cook's second lieutenant, on board the Resolution, in his second voyage round the world. Both ships were well fitted out, and supplied abundantly with every article necessary for a long voyage: and on the 8th of June, while they lay in long-reach, we had the satisfaction of a visit from the earl of Sandwich, Sir Hugh Palliser, and others of the board of admiralty, to examine whether every thing had been completed pursuant to their orders, and to the conve- nience of those who were to embark. They honoured Capt. Cook with their company to dinner on tnat day ; and were saluted, on their coming on board, and on their going on shore, with seventeen guns and three cheers. To convey some permanent benefit to the inhabitants of Otaheite, and of the other Islands which we might happen to visits his Majesty ordered us a supply of some useful animals, and we took on board a bull, two cows, with their calves, and some sheep ; with hay and corn for their support. We were alr>o furnished with a sufficient quantity of our valuable European garden seeds, which might add fresh supplies of food to the vegetable productions of our newly discovered Islands. We had also an extensive assortment of iron tools and trink- ets, to facilitate a friendly commerce and in- tercourse with the .nhabitants of such new countries as we might discover. With re- spect to our wants, nothing was refused us that might be conducive to health, comfort or convenience. Those at the head of the naval department were equally solicitous to render our voyage of public utility ; to this end we received a variety of astronomical and nautical instruments which the board of longitude intrusted to Capt. Cook and Mr. lyag, bis secon4 lieutenant; they m ^».. ■ ■- i«a ■■■i 378 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. '^^Ying en^ged to supply the place of a pro- fessed observator. The board, likewise, put into their possession the time-keeper «rbich Capt. Cook had carried out in his fyist voyage, and which had performed so well. It was constructed Ir Mr. Kendal, und was a copy of Mr Harrison's. Another tiine> piece, and the same assortment of astronomical and other instruments, were put on board the Discovery, for the use of Mr. William Bailey, who was engaged as 9n observator on board that sloop. Thouurh several young men, among the sea othcers, were capable of being em|)loyed in con- structing charts, drawing plans, and taking views ot the coasts, and head-lands, never- theless, Mr. Webber was engaged to em- bark with Capt. Cook, for tlie purpose of supplying the defects of written accounts; by taking accurate and masterly drawings oi the most memorable scenes of our trans- iictions. Mr. Anderson, likewise, surgeon to Capt. Cook, added to his professional abilities a great proficiency in natural his- tory. He had already visited the South Sea Islands in the same ship, and enabled the Captain to enrich his relation of his voyage witn useful and valuable remarks. The vocabularies of the Friendly and Sandwich Islands, and of the natives of Nootka had been furnished to our commander, by this his most useful associate, Mr. Anderson : und a fourth, in which the language of the Esquimaux is compared with that of tiie American's on the opposite side of the con- tinent, had been prepared by the Captain hiniself. The confessed abilities, and great assiduity of Mr. Anderson, in observing every thing that related either to natural history, or to manners and language, and the desire that Cant. Cook, on all occasions, shewed to have tlie assistance of that gen- tleman, stamped a great value on his col- lections. The Resolution had the same appoint- ment of officers and men which she had in her former voyage,- and the establisliment of the Discovery varied from that of )hf Adventure, in the single instance of her having no marine officer on board. This •rrangment was to be finally completed at it Plymouth ; and on the 9th of July, we re- ceived the party of marines allotted for our voyage. And the su|>ernumerary seamen, occasioned by this reinforcement, bein" turned over into the Ocean man of war^, our several complements of officers, and tli6 respective crews of both ships, remained as expressed in the two underwritten lists. I. A LIST of the OFFICERS, SEAMEN and PRIVATES, on board the ' * RESOLUTION. 1 Captain - - 3 Lieutenants - -James Cook. -John Gore, Janie^ King;, and John Williamson. -William Bii-h. -William Kwiu. -James Cleveiy. -Robert Anderson. -William Anderson. -llobers, &.c, , -Hurge&t, &c. 2 Surgeon's Mates - Samwell and Davis. 2 Captain's Clerks -Alex, lloggand Alex. Dewer, WiHiaiu Colh't ->^^illiaui Ciri.'iiihs -William Hunt. -Williuui Price, -William Widdel. -William jVIarenl, Quia, JaiiH\s, aud Doyle. 3 Cari enter's J///^ -, Barber & .'^Ijiciniosii, 2 Gunner's ditto -Drown ^ Ituuistv. 4 Carpenter's C/rj/;- Carter, ii;c. 1 Cook - - - -Roltert l.r is. I Ditto Mate - - Uieliuid Vuuu:.f, 6 Quarter Masters -^y^^U'KV^j, &^c. 45 Al/le Seamen. blaster - - - Jioatswain Carpenter - - Gunner - - 1 Surgeon - 3 blaster's Mates 6 Midshipmen - 1 J faster at Arms I Corporal - - 1 Armourer - - 1 JJitto .Mate - I Sail Maker - 1 Ditto Mate - 3 lioatswain's Mates MARINES. - Molesworth V UIJK I IJcutenant 1 Serjeant - - 2 Corporals - - 1 l^rummer - - 15 Prirntea. Total of the ship's company 113 men. -Samuel Gibson. -Ledi»id and Thomas -Michel Portman ir. A J Mm 1 Captoi 2 Lieute ATO) ROITND THE WORLD 979 11. A LIST of the OFFICERS, SKA- MEN, aud PRIVATES, on board the DISCOVERY. -Charles Clerke. -Jame Buriiey, Rickinan. - Thomas Edgar. -£neas Atkins. -Peter Reynolds. - William Peckover -John Law I Captain - - — 2ldeutenani8 - -Jame Burney, John 1 Master - - I Boatswain - 1 Carpenter - - i Gunner - - 1 Surgeon - - 2 Master's Mates A Midshipmen - -Alex. Mouat, &c. 2 Surgeon's Mates - Snaggs and Ellis'. 1 Captain's Clerk -Gregory Banthom. 1 Master at Arms. 1 Corporal. I Armourer - - - Dixon 1 Ditto Mate. 1 Sail Maker. \ Ditto Mate. 2 Boatswain's Mates. 2 Carpenter's Ditto. ^ 1 Gunner's Ditto. 4 Carpenter's Crew, I Cook. A Quarter Masters - Cox, &c 33 Able Seamen. MARINES. 1 Serjeant - - - Letant. 1 Corporal. 1 Drummer - — Hollywell. 8 Privates. Total of the ship's company 80 men. To these we may here add Omiah, who, as we were to touch at the Society islands opinion, was not a pVoper sample of the inhabitants of those happy Islands, not hav-r ing an^advantage of birth, or acquired raiik, nor being eminent in shape, figure, or cdm- plexion ; for their people of the tirst rank are much fairer, and, usually, better beljuv- ed, and' more intelligent, than the iiiiddhiig class of people, among whom Omiah is to be ranked. Capt. Cook, however, since his arrival in England, has been convinced of his error ; for, excepting his complexion (which is undoubtedly of a deeper Ime than -Home and Hollingby. titat of the Earees, or gentry, who live, as in other countries, a "more luxurious life, and are less exposed to the heat of the sun) he doubted whether any other of the natives would have given a more general satisfac- tion by his behaviouramong them. " Omiah, he observed, lias certainly a very good un- derstanding, quick parts, and honest prin- ciples : he has a natural good beliaviour, which renders him acceptable to the best company, and a proper degree of pride, which taught him to avoid the society oif inferior rank. He has passions of the same kind as other young men, but has judgment enough not to indulge them in any imjiro- per manner. I do not imagine that he has any dislike to liquor, and if he had fallen into company who drank the most, met with the most approbation, I have no doubt, but that he would have endeavoured to' gain the applause of those with whom he associated ; out, fortunately for him, he perceived that drinking was very little in use but among the inferior people, and as he was very watchful into the manners and conduct of the persons ot rank who ho* noured him with their protection, he wa« and Otaheite, was to take his passage in the sober and modest ; and I never heard that, Resolution, to his native country. Before during the whole time of his stay in Eng-t the Resolution and Adventure quitted the land, which was two years, he ever once small but fertile Island of Huaheine, Capt. was disguised with wine, or even shewed Fumeaux, who had the command of the an inclination to go beyond the strictest rules latter, agreed to receive on board his sliip a of moderation. Soon after his arrival in yonn^ man named Omai, or Omiah, a native London, the earl of Sandwich, the first lord of Uhetea, where he was possesed of some of the admiralty, introduced him to his property, of which he had been deprived msyesty at Kew, when he met with a most oy the people of Bolabola. Capt. Cook gracious reception, and imbibed the strong*, wondered that Capt. Fumeaux would en- est impression of duty and gratitude, which tuoiber himself with this man, who in his I am persuaded he will preserve to the 3 ^'.'U (f\ %• 880 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, latest moment of Lis life. During^ his stay in England he was caressed by many of the J principal nobilit^r, and did nothing to for- eit the esteem of any one of them ; but his principal patrons were the earl of Sandwich, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander: the first probably thought it a duty of his office to protect and contenance an inhabitant of that hospitable country, where the wants and distresses of those in his department had been alleviated and supplied in tlie most ample manner ; the others, as a testi- mony of their gratitude for the generous reception they had met with during their residence in his country. But though Oniiah lived in the midst of amusements during iiis residence inEngland, his return to his native country was always in his tlioughts ; and though he was not impatient to go, now the time of his return approached, he was agi- tated by different passions in turns, and left London with a mixture of regret and satis- fation." In our voyage, wlien we talked about England, and about those, who, dur- ing his stay had honoured him with their protection and friendship, his spirits were sensibly affected, and it was with difficulty he could refrain from tears. But, the in- stant the conversation turned to his own Islands, his eyes began to sparkle with joy. He was deeply impressed with a sense of the good treatment he had met with in England, and entertained the highest ideas of the country and of the ])eople. But the E leasing prospect he now had of returning ome, h»aded with what he well knew would be esteemed invaluable treasures there, and the flattering hope which the posses.siF- "m 'i Ed 382 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLR was withheld' from him that he required, either for trade in his own country, or for curiosity. How he behaved on board, and in what manner he was received on his return home, will be seen in the neqa^j of the history «f our voyage, to which wt now proceed. CHAP. I. :tS:- \. ■ )..': :.'■■ ;i Departure of the Resolution from Plymouth Sound; Her passage to Teneriffe, and reception she met with there ; The road of Santa Cruz described ; Geographical account of the Island and history of the cities of Santa Cruz and Lagtma ; Air, climate, agriculture^ produce, commerte and inhabitants described ; Her departure Jrom Teneriffe for the Cape of Good Hope. Tht Diseovtry follows, and joins company some time after her arrival there; The Resolution in danger near the sunken rocks of Bonavista ; Arrives at the Cape of Good Hope ; Transactions l/tae Account of Mr. Anderson's journey up the country: Both ships leave the Cape, and proceed on their voyage to the southward. J'Nthe morning, of the 11th, of July, 1776, Capt. Cook delivered into the hands of r. Burney, first lieutenant of the Disco- very, Capt. Gierke's sailing orders ; a copy of which he also left with the commanding officer of his msyesty's ships at Plymouth, to be delivered to the Captain on his ar- rival. In the afternoon we weighed with the ebb, and got out beyond all the shipping in the sound. On Friday the 12th, the im- patience of the ship's company, and the notion they had entertained of its bein? a lucky day, as it was the same the Resolu- tion had set sail on in her former voyage, indaced Capt. Cook to comply with their importunities. Accordingly, at eight o'clock, P. M. we stood out of the sound, with Omiah on board, having a gentle breeze at N. W. by W. Capt, Clerke was ordered to foil / us with the Discovery, to St. Jago, -le of the Cape de Verd Islands, and il should the .niss of us to pursue his cour J directly for the Cape of Good Hope. Soon after we came out of the sound, the wind came more westerly, and blew fresh, which obliged us to ply down the channel ; and we were not on the Lizard nil Sunday the 14th, in the evening On Tuesday the 16th, we observed in latitude 6 49 deg. 53 min. 30 sec. N.St. Agnes's light- house bearing at this time N. W. by W. distant about eight miles, and, by our reck- oning, situated in 49 deg. 57 min. 30 sec. N. and in 6 de"-. 20 min. W. longitude. Our readers will be pleased here to observe, that, in this voyage, we reckon our longi- tude from the meridian of Greenwich, and after passing to the east in the South ^t- lantic, it is carried on easterly beyond the great meridian, or 180th deg. to the ut- most extent of the voyage, and back again to the same meri >IW'W' 384 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLli. discerned at one hundred and twenty miles, or forty leagues distance ; and in falling from it, at the distance of one hundred and fifty miles, or fifty leagues, when it resem- bles a thin blue vapour, or smoke, very little darker than the sky. Before we lose sight of this towering mountain, it seems a considerable height above the firmament, though from its distance, and the spherical figure of the earth, the rest of the Island is sunk beneath the horizon, notwithstand- ing its being exceedingly high. There are several high perpendicular rocks near Punto de Nago ; and on the south-east side of the Island, is the harbour of Santa Cruz, the most frequented part in the Canary Islands. The best road for ships is about a mile to the north-ward : between the middle of the town and fort, or castle, ships may lie secure from all winds, though the bay is expos- ed to those which blow from the N. E. coasts and S. E. yet these winds do not blow so hard as to cause any considerable damage above once in the space of fpur or five years. However, we learn from Glass, that some years ago, most of the shipping in the road were driven on shore by one of these gales. Some English ships were then in the iiarbour ; but the crews prudently cutting away their masts, rode out the storm. In the middle of the town, for the convenience of landing, is a mole, built at vast expence. It runs up to the northward, and the uttermost part turns towards the shore. However, in mild weather, goods are landed at a creek among the rocks, at the distance of a stones' cast to the south- ward of the mole, and near the custom-house. In the way from the mole into the town, there is a square fort'ontbe left hand,named St. Philips ; this is the principal one in the bay. To the northward of it are some forts and batteries mounted with guns, the most considerable of which is named Passo Alto. Near it is a steep rocky valley, which begins at the sea shore, and runs a great way within land. There are several batteries at the south end of the town, and beyond them, close to the shore, is a fort called St. Juan. All these forts are mounted with cannon, and joined together by a thick stone wall« 8 which begins near the above rocky v;illey, and continues with little interruption to fort St. Juan. This wall is within only breast high, but it is higher on the outside i'ac'\ite the sea, and from thence to the southward ; the shore being naturally fenced with rocks* is generally inaccessible. Santa Cruz is a large town, and contains several churches, three convents of Friars an hospital, and' the best constructed prjl vate buildings of any to be found in tlie Canary Islands. It is indeed the capital of them all, for though the episcopal see and courts of judicature are in the city of Palmas, in Canaria, the governor-general of the Islands always resides in Santa Cruz, where u great concourse of foreigners con- tinually resort, on account of its being the centre of the trade between the Canary Is- lands with Europe and America. The number of inhabitants are supposed to amount to about five or six thousand. The water drank by them, is conveyed into the town in open wooden troughs, from a spring beyond the above mentioned valley, and there are pits of water, which serve for other purposes, in many houses. Near twelve miles to the southward of Santa Cruz, and close to the sea, there is a cave, with a church, or chapel, called our Lady of Candelaria, in which Is a little image of the Virgin Mary, about three feet high, holding a green can- dle in one hand, and in the other an infant Jesus, who has a gilt bird in each hand. This chapel received its name of Candeld' ria, from its being pretended, that on the eve of the purification of the Holy Virgin, a great number of lights are constantly seen going in procession round the cave, in which the image is placed : and they assert, that in the morning, drops of wax are scattered about the sea shore. This image is held in the highest veneration, on account of the many miracles it is said to have performed, and her chapel is adorned with so many ornaments, that it is the richest place in all the seven Islands. At a certain season of the year, most of the inhabitants of the Island go thither in pilgrimage, when troops of young girls march singing, in an agreea- ble manner, the praises of the Virgin, and AND ROITND THE WORLD. 3S5 the miraculous deeds the image is said to havf performed. North-westward of the Island is the bay of Adexe or, as it is pronounced, .Vdehe, where large ships may anchor. On the N. W. side is a haven called Garrachica, once the best port in the island ; but it was de- stroyed in 1704, which the natives call the year of the earthquakes, and filled up by the rivers of burning lava that flowed into it from a volcanoe ; so that houses are now built where ships formerly lay at anchor ; yet vessels come there in the summer season. The earthquake be^an on the •24th of De- cember ; and in the space of three h(»urs twenty-nine shocks were felt. After this they became so violent as to cause all the houses to shake, and oblige the inhabitants to abandon them. The consternation be- came universal, and the people, with the bishop at their head, made processions and public prayers in the open fields. On the 31st, a great light was observed on Manja, towards the White Mountains, where the earth opening, two volcanoes were formed, that threw up such heaps of stones, as to raise two considerable mountains ; and the combustible matter continually thrown up, kindled in the neighbourhood above fifty tires. Things remained in this situation till the 5th of January, and then the sun was totally obscured with clouds of smoke and flame, which continually increasing, augmented the consternation and terror of the inhabitants. Before night, the whole country, for nine miles round, was in flames by the flowing of the liquid fire, with the rapidity of the torrent, into all quarters, from another volcanoe, which had opened by at least thirty different vents within the compass of half a mile. The horror of this Rcene was greatly increased by. the violence of the shocks, which never once intermitted, but by their force entirely overthrew several houses, and shook others to their very foun- dations : while the wretched inhabitants were agpin driven defenceless and dismayed into the open fields, where they every mo- ment expected to be swallowed up by some new gull. The noise of the volcano was beard at sea at twenty leagues distance, d D where the sea shook with ffleh Tfolen<;e as alarmed the mariners, who at first thought the sliip had struck unon the rock. Mean while a torrent of sulpnur, and melted ores of diilierent kinds, rushed from this last volcano towards Guimar, where the hons* i and public buildings were thrown down by the violence of the accompanying shocks. On the 2nd of February aiiolljer volinno broke out even in the town of Guiujitr, which swii! lowed up a large church. Thus from the 24th of December to the 23rd of February, the people were constantly filarm- ed by continual shocks of earthquakes,, and the terrible volcanoes that burst forth in. ditl'erent parts. The town of Garrachica is still pretty large, and contains several churches, and convents of both sexes. It has a small trade for brandy and wine, which are usually sent from thence in barUs, or large open boats to Santa Cruz, or Port Orotava. Strong and durable .ships are also built there, some of which are upwards of three hundred tons burthen. Six miles to the eastward of this place stands the town of Port Orotava, v\*:iich IS a good harbour in the summer season, but in the winter, ships are often obliged to slip their cables and pnt to sea, for fear of being surprised with a N. W. wind, which throws in a heavy sea upon this coast. This is a place of considerable trade, it having flou- rished greatly since the destruction of the harbour of Garrichica. It contains two churches, two convents of Friars, two of Nuns, and some good private buildin<4s. At each end of the town is a black sandy bay ; and along the northernmost a low stone wall, built to prevent the landing of an enemy: at the other bay is a small castle, or fori, for the same [)urpose, and at the landing-place between them is a battery, of a few cannon : but the surf that continually breaks upon the shore is the be.st defence of this port. About three miles from hence within land is la Villa de Orotava, which is a large tow n, and contains several dnirches, and convents, with a number of stately stone buildings belonging to private per- sons A rivulet which runs through the midsf of it, refreshes their gardens ari4 V' -f (: ii it !<'■? m V'i -'it'' |-,u^ 380 rOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTW POLE. orchards, and supplies- ttie inhabitants with water. The city of St. Christobal de la La^^ona, that is, St. Christopher of the lake, extends four miles within land from Santa Cruz. The road to it from the above town is a pretty steep ascent, till within a small dis- tance of the city, which is seated in the corner of a plain, about four miles in length, and a mile in breadth. This city is the capital of the Island, and contains two parish churches, three convents of Friars, two of Nuns, and three hospitals; two of which are tor the venereal aisease,and theother for foundlings. The Jesuits have also a house here, and, be- tides these public structures, there are many handsome private buildings. The water drank by the inhabitants is conveyed in troughs to the city, from the mountain situated to the southward of the plain. In this city there is not the least shew of busi- ness, it being chiefly inhabited by the gentry of the Island, particularly the officers of justice, with the judge of the Indies, who presides in the India-House, where all affairs relating to the West-India commerce are conducted. Here is likewise an oflice of inouisition subject to the tribunal of the holy office of Grand Canaria ; yet the city appears to a stranger as if desolate and unin- habited ; for seldom any one can be seen in the streets, and grass grows in the most frequented places. There is a lagnina, or lake, behind the city, about half a mile in circumference, from which the city takes its name. It is dry in suinuier, but in winter is full of stagnant water. As this city is situated on a plain, elevated a considerable height above the sea, it is extremely cold in winter, and in all seasons exposed to the wind. The nuad descends from the western extremity of this plain, to La Montan/a de Centejo, a large village in the mid-way between Santa Cruz and Port Orotava, chiefly inhabited bv peasants and labouring people. Some of tne towns are situated at no great distance from the sea, from whence most of them may be seen ; and, indeed, there are no habitations at a greater dis- tance from each other than nine miles. A Iwge town, called Realojo, is situated in the western border, aad La Rambta en the eastern. The towns of Orotava, and Port Orotava, stood between them, with a num- ber of detached inhabitants, scattered about from the sea shore upwards to the clouds, in or bevond which, there are no houses ; yet the clouds are not higher than the middle distance between the sea and the summit ot the peak. The whole Island continues to rise on all sides from the sea till it terminates in tjie peak, which as we have observed, is in the centre. Tiie north side is the most fiitile, and ascends more gradually than the oihei' particularly a space along the shore about three leagues broad, bounded on the sides by high mountains or rather clifls ; but it rises upwards from the sea, like u harigintj garden, till yon come within three miles oi the clouds, without any considerable inter- vention of hills and valleys. All the fertile ground, within a league of the sea, is cover- ed with vines ; corn grows in the next league ; and in the third some corn, woods of chesnuts, and many other ditlerent sorts of trees. Above these woods are the clouds, which in tine weather, generally descend gradually towards the evening, nm\ rest upon these woods till the morning, when they re-asrend about a league, and^ there remain till the succeeding evening. Tliere are several other towns, and many small villagt-s l)esides the towns already mention- ed. This Island is so populous, that, when the last account was taken, it contain- ed no less than ninety six thousand persons, and is supposed to contain as many souls as all the rest of the inhabited Islands. The city of Lagnna, which stands near a lake, abont nine miles from the sea, is the principal place in Tenerifle : it is called by the Spaniards St, Christovalde la Laguna, and is handsomely built, having two parisli churches, and a pnlace for the governor, who resides here. The aldermen of this city pay a price to the king to serve their offices of magistrates ; but this gives them great power over the inhabitants, who are divided into three classes, namely, gentlemen, mer- chants, and husbandmen,^ or as they are termed by the natives, idlemen, busyiuea. AND ROUND THE WORLD 097 and Iabourin(irfneQ. The land on each side of the road, leading to Lagiina, '\%, in (general, rocky, but some spots of corn-land are inter- spersed here and there, and terminated by Rmall vineyards on the sides of the mountains. This city presents the beholder with an aorreeahle pros|)ect, as it stands on the side of a hill, and stretches its skirts on the niain beiMnd ; it is lar^e, coin|)act, and populous; the houses, though not uniform, nave a ()leasant appearance : besides the p^overnor's louse, and the two parish churches, here are two nunneries, four convents, an hospital, and some chapels, besides many gentlemen's houses. The convents are those of St, Fran- cis, 8t. Augustine, St. Dominic, and St. Die«?o. The churches have pretty high square steeples, which top the rest of the buildings. Ti>e streets are not regular, yet they are for the most part spacious, and near the middle of the town is a large parade, which has good buildings about it. There is a strong prison on one side of it, near which is a large conduit of ^ood water that supplies ail the town. The inhabitants have many gardens that are set round with orange, lime, anear-trees,bear twice antinally. The fireynada, temon, and lignar wood, are found here, as are the cot- ton-shrub and coloquintida. The rose blows at Christinas : the carnations are Uurg^e and fine, but tulips will not thrive. The rocks abound with •ainphire, tlie mea- dows are covered with clover, and the beach produces a broad le:ived grass. About foun score ears of wheat spring from one root, the grains of whicrh are as transparent ai the purest yellow amber ; and in a good season one bushel will produce a hundred fold : (he barley and maize are not inferior to the wheat. With respect to the animals, here are plenty of rabbits, hogs, wild goats, &c. Quails and partridges are larger than those in England, and extremely handsome, Wood-pic[eons, turtles, and crows, abound in the spring. Several sorts of wild fowls resort hither in the winter season, atfordinjf plenty of game to the inhabitants of Lagiuia J'he falcons, or rather strong large havvk% which hover over the lake o." Laguna, nre thus described by a gentleman who lately travelled to these Islands: *' 1 cannot t'or-i bear mentioning the haggard falcons that soar every evening about this lake. It is very good diverson to see the negroes fiprbt them with slings : for they often stoop, se- veral at a time ; and besides, they are tite best mettled banks in the wortd,> beiiig of a larger kind than the Barbary falcon. The viceroy being one evening to- see the sport, on the author's commending their strength and mettle, assured him upon his honour, that a falcon bred in that Island, which he had forrtierly sent to the duke of Larma, did atone flight, ( unless she rested on any ship by the way) pass iimn Anda- lusia to TenerifFe, which is two hundred and fifty Spanish leagues, and was taken up half d^ad, having on the vessels and bells belonging to the duke." In this Island fishes are found in great quantities particularly dolphins, sharks, meros, lobsters, mussels, periwinkles, tiiecal- cas, (which is deemed fhebest she!!-fish in the universe) and the cherna, that 'exceeds in relish any we have in England ; here is also another fish which is calleoni then< IhoHijfh not sudden reach. From a su| not stay above oil contract my excuf proposed to visit monntain. To the! the Islands appears! of nijis run towardJ ndges are deep vallf fains or hills that rl fhan the former, fhe sea, are markeoi woes, which makes] •ession of conic hi| '0|r?ed. The high we more nnifortn ii| AND ROUND THE WORLD. im To thi!< accoant we shaU add the following rfanrks of the ingenious Mr. Anderson, lone of oar ship's company, and of whom we have already made mention (on the natnral appearances of Teneriffe, anu its prodnction ; as what he observed himself, or learnt by inroniiution, about the general state of the Island, muy be of use ; seeing our readers inny hereby be enabled to mark some changes that have happened there since the publication of the above geographical ob- servations, which are chietiy extracted from 5Ir. Millar's dennrvedly much admired New and Universal System •/GEOGRA- PHY. The followincr are Mr. Anderson's own words, and narration. " While we were standing in for the land, the weather being pertertly Hear, we had an opportunity ot ^eeinj; the celebrated Peak otlVnpiifferbut I own I was much disap- pointed in my expectation with respect to its tippearance. it is certainly, far from equalling the noble finure of Pico, one of the western Isles wtii
  • osition that we should not stay above one day, 1 was obliged to contract my excursions : otherwise \ had proposed to visit the top of this famous mountain. To the eastward of Santa Cruz, the Islands appears perfectly barren . Ridges of hills run towards the sea ; between which ridges are deep valleys, terminating at moim- tains or hills that run across, and are higher than the former. Those tliat run towards the sea, are marked by impressions on their •ides, which makes them appear as a suc- iession of conic hills, with their tops very rogged. The higher ones that run across •re more aBiform in their appearance. "In the forenoon of the 1st of August, after we had anchored in the road, 1 went on shore, to one of these valleys, with an intention to reach the top of the remoter hills which seemed covered with woods ; but time would not allow me to get further than their foot. After walking about three miles, 1 found no alteration in the appear- ance of the lower hills; which produce great quantities of the Euphorbia Canari- ensis. It is surprising that this large suc- culent plant should thrive on so burnt up a soil. When broken, which is easily done, the quantity of juice is very great ; and it might be supposed that, when dried, it would shrivel to nothing: yet it is a pretty tough, though sotl and light wood. The people here believe its juice to be so caustic, as to corrode the skin ; but I convinced them, though with much difliculty, to the contrary, b)[ thrusting my finger in a plant full of it, without afterwards wiping it off. They brtak down the bushes of the Euphor- bia, and suffering them to dry, carry them home for fuel. I met with nothing else growing there, but two or three small shrubs, and a few fig-trees near the bottom of the valley. The basis of the hills is a heavy compact bluish stone, mixed with son.e shining particles ; and, on the surface, larue masses of red friable earth, or stone, are scattered about. I also found the same substance disposed in a thick strata ; and the little earth strewed here and there, was a blackish mould. There were also some pieces of flag ; one of which, tVom its weight and smooth snrtace, seemed almost wholly met;dline. The moiddering state of these hills is doubtless, owing to the perpetual action of the sun, which calcines their sur- face. This mouldered part being afterwards washed away by the heavy rains, perhaps is the cause of their sides being so uneven, F'or as the different substances of which they are composed, are more or less easily affected by the sun's heat, they will be car- ried away in the like proportions. Hence, perhaps, the tops of the hills, being of the hardest rock, have stood, while the other parts on a declivity have been destroyed. As I have usually obscrredi that the tops of i i '\n n ^s'- v^;*; ].: I'^U..'- i99 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, most niniMitains that are covered with trees rows, or walls, at Bmall distances. Tlie have u more uiiit'orin appearance, I am in- Jlarg« hills that run to the S. W. appeared to clineti to believe that this is owing- to their be pretty well furnished with trees. No. beini; shaded. thing else worthy of notice presented itself " The city of Santa OruK, though not large, during this excursion, except a few aloe is tolerably well built. The churches are plants in flower, near the side of the road not magniificent without ; but within are and tlie cheerfulness of our guides, who decent, and indifferently ornamented. They amused us with songs by the way. Most of are inferior to some of the churches at the laborious work in this Island is per. Madeira: but, I imagine, this rather arises formed by mules, horses being to appear- from the different disposition of the people, ance scarce, and chiefly reserved for the use than from their inability to support them of (he officers. They are of a small size better: for the private houses, and dress but well shaped and spirited. Oxen ari of tl e Spanish iithahitants of Santa Crnz, also employed to drag their casks aion* are f.,r preferable to those of the Portuguese upon a clumsy piece of wood ; and they are at Meileira, who^ f)erhaps, are willing to strip joked by the head, though it doth not seem themselves, that they may adorn their that this has an^ peculiar advantage over chnrolies. our method of hxing the harness on the '•Almost facing the stone pier, at the land- shoulders. In my walks and excursions [ • ing-(»luce is a handsome marble column, saw some hawks, parrots, the tern or sea- lately put uf), ornamented with some human swallow, sea-gulls, partridges, wagtails, figures, that do no discredit to the artist, swallows, martins, blackbirds, and canary-! with an inscription in Spanish, and the birds in large flocks. There are also lizards date, to commemorate the occasion of the of the common, and another sort ; some ereotion. insects and locusts ; and three or four sorts *' Friday the 2nd, in the aftemoon,four of of dragon flies. us hired mules to ride to the city of Laguna, " I had an opportunity of converging with so called from an adjoining lake ; about four a sensible and well informed gentlemiiii miles from Santa Cruz. We arrived there residing here, and whose veracity I have i^bout six in the evening, but found a sight of not the least reason to doubt. From Inm it very unable to compensate for our trouble, I learnt some particulars, which durinyr the as the road was very bad, and the mules but short stay of three days, did not fall within indifferent. The place is, indeeJ, pretty my own observation. He informed nie, extensive, hut scarcely deserves to be dig- that a slirub is >:omuion here, agreeing ex- aifieil xH-ith the name of city. actly v't'* the description given oy Touriu- " The disposition of its streets is very irre- fort and Linneeus, of the tea-shruh, as ftular ; yet some of them are of a tolerable growing in China tnd Japan. It is reckon- breadth, and have some good houses. In ed a weed, and he roots out thousands rf general, however, Laguna is inferior in ap- them every vear, from his vine-yards. The ptarance to Santa Cruz, though the latter, Sfianiards, however, of the Island, some- if compared with th« former, is but small, times use it as tea, and ascribe to it all the The road leadinj.' from Santa Cruz to La- qualities of that imported from China. guna runs up a steep hill, which is v«*ry They also g'we it the name of tea ; but barren ; but lower down, we saw some tip:- what is remarkable, they say it was found trees, and several corn-fields. These las* here when the Island was first discovered. are but small, an J not thrown into ridges. Another botanical curiosity, mentioned by ma is practised ';i England. Nor Joes it him, i«; what they call Pregnada ur im)..eg- appear that they can raise any corn here nated leiuon. It is a. pertect and distinct without great labour, as the ground is so lemon, inclosed within another, differing encumbered with stones, that they are from the outer one mly in being a little obliifed ta ovllect and lay them in broad- more gSobular. The leaves of the tree that 6 AND ROUND THE WORLD. doi uodnces this sort, are hiocIi longer than those of the common one ; sn\d it was repre- sented to me as being cruoked, and not equal in beauty. From him I learnt also, that a certain sort of grape growing here, is reckoned an excellent remedy in phthisicul complaints : and tlie air and climate in ge- neral, are remarkably healthful, and parti- cularly adapted to give relief in such diseases. This he endeavoured to account for, by its being always in our power to procure a different temperature of the air, by residing &t different heights in the Island ; and he ex>'ressfcd his surprise, that the English physicians should never have thonirht of seiaiiiig their consumptive patients to Tene- riiie, instead of Nice or Lisbon. How much the ttus the only considerable article of tlie tbreign commerce o^Teneritfe. " None of the race of the family of tb« Guanches, or ancient inhabitants, found here when the Spaniards discovered the Ca- naries, now remain a distinct people, having: intermarried with the Spanish settlers ; but their descendants are known, from their being remarkably tall, large boned, and strong. The men are, in general, of a tawny colour, and the women have a nale com- plexion, entirely destitute of that bloom which distinguishes out northern beauties. The Spnnish custom of wearing black clothes continues among them; but the men seem more indifferent about this, and in some measure dress like the French. In other respects, we found the inhabitants of Tene- riffe to be a decent and very civil people, retaining that grave cast which distinguishes thoseof their country from other Europetiu nations. Althotigh, concludes Mr. Ander- son, we do not think, that there is a great similarity between our manners and those of the Spaniards, it is worth observ'r:*;, that Omiah did not think there was much dif- ference. He only said, that they seeinf d not so friendly as the English ; and that, in their persons, they approached those of his coun- trymen." We shall now, as prr^osed, proceed to the relation of a journey up the Pet^k of Tene- ritft, undertaken and performed by Mr. Glass, author of that valuable work, ejititled, the Kistory of the Canary Islands. This gentleman begins his narrative with inform- ing us, that, "Early in the m*. th of Sep- tember 1761, at about fo.ir in the afternoon, he set out on hoisflback, in company with the masterof a ship to visit the Peak. They had with them a servant, a muleteert and • mi ill il 1'(V| 392 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, jfiiide ; and aAcr ascending above six miles arrived towards sun-set at the most distant habitation frotn the sea, which is in a hol- low : here finding an aqueduct of open trouffhs that convey water down from the head of the hollow, their servants watered the cattle, and filled some small barrels to serve them in their expedition. " The gentlemen here alighted, and walk- ing into tne hollow, found it very pleasant, as it abounded with many trees of an odori- ferous smell ; and some fields of maiz or Indian corn are near the houses. On their mounting' again, they travelled for some time up a steep road, and reached the woods and clouds 'ji. little before night. They could not miss their way, the road being bounded on both sides with trees or bushes, which were chiefly laurel, savine, and brushwood. Hav- ing travelled about a mile, they came to the upper edge of the wood, above the clouds, where alighting, they made a fire, and sup- ped ; soon after which, they laid down to sleep under the br 'les. About half an hour Sifter ten, the moon shining bright, they iMontited again, travelled slowly two hours ihrouiih an exceeding bad road, resembling -lie ruins of stone buiidinijs scattered over ihe fields, " After they had passed over this road, they came upon small light pumice-slone, like shinyles ; upon which ihey rode at a pretty go«»d pace for near an hour. The air now began to be f)retty sharp and piercing, and the w'"m\ i>Ievv strong from the sonth- vestward. Their guide advised them to alight- here, as the place was convenient, and ^f'^l till aiiout four or five in the morning. To this they agreed, and entered the cuve, the mouth of which was built up to about a man's height, to exclude the cold. Near this place were some fine dry withered retamaf , the only shrub or vegetable near the cave, and with these they made a great fire to warm themselves, and fhen fell asleep ; but were soon awaked by an itching occa- sioned by a cold thin air, want of rest, and sleeping in their cloilres. They here nassed away their time as well as they could , but while they crept near the fire, one side was tthnust scorched, and the other was benumb- ed with cold. At about five in the morninf they mounted again, and travelled slowly about a mile ; for the road was rather too steep for travelling quick on horseback, and their beasts were now fatigued. " At last they came among some great loose rocks, where was a kind of cottajf« built of loose stone, called the English pitclu ing place, probably from some of ilie English resting here, on their way lo visit the Peak ; for none take that journey but foreigners and some poor people who earn their bread by gathering brimstone. There they alighted again, tiie remaintlei oj their way being too steef) lb.- ridinsf, and left one of the servants to look after tlit horses while they proceeded on their ji)iir- ney. They walked hard to i;et themselvt^f warm ; but were soon fuiigued by the sUe ness of the road, which was loose and sanoy On their reaching the top of this hill, they came to a prodigious number of large and loose stones, or rocks, whose surfaces were flat, and each of them about ten feet everj way. " This road wr 5 less r.teep than theothert but they „ ere obliged to travel a consider- able way round, to leap over the rocks, which were not close to each other. Among theui is a cavern, in which is a well, or na- tural reservoir, into which they descended by a ladder placed there by the poor peo|il( for that pnriiose. This cavern is very spa- cious, it being almost ten yards wide, ami twenty in height; but all the bottom excejtt just at the foot of the ladder, is covered with water, which is about two fathoms deep, and was then frozen towards the inner edges of the care ; but when the» attempted to drink of it, its excessive cold- ness prevented them. *' After travelling about a quarter or lialf a mile upon the great stones, they reached ilhe bottom of the real Peak or sugar-loaf. which is exceeding steep, and the difficulty of ascending it increased, and was rendered more fatiguing by the ground beinr loose and giving way under their feet ; forthoniih this eminence is not above half a mite in heiiiht, they were obi^u'ed to stop :umI tiiki; breath near thirty times ; and when they ut last reacl: fatigue tl] to recovei "In th English ] emerging spread ur low, and i the clouds they per( they conje of Madeir by a pock /n the dir '"iffe, but of the Pe neither pe tur& from enough tc could see 1 of Grand i mera, whi< " After r i'> observe about one and one hi hollow, ar From the as it is a forty yard parts of thi and steam; an' ihi-i h they i:\jfi could not t an inch ; . hotter it wj stafi^ and t into a hole seemed thi( about a mi imt to a ^»^ay piece f..'r.nss{:)ne azure blue, "The do a great dis cxtraordina AND ROUND THE WORLD. \inti reached the top, being quite spent with fatigue they lay about a quarter of an hour to recover their breath, and rest themselves. " In the morning, when they left the English pitching place, the sun was jast emerging from the clouds, which were spread under them at a great distai<2e be- low, and appeared like the ocean. Above the clouds, at a vast distance to the north, they perceived something black, which they conjectured to be the top of the Island of Madeira, and, taking the bearyigs of it by a pocket compass, found it to be exactly /n the direction of that Island from Tene- riffe, but before they reached to the tops of the Peak, it disappeared. They could neither perceive Lancerota nor Fuerteven- tur& from this place, they being not high enough to pierce the clouds ; though they could see from hence the tops of the Islands of Grand Canaria, Hieros, i*alma, and Go- mera, which seemed to be quite near. " After resting for some time, they began !'> observe the top of the Peak which is about one hundred and forty yards in length, and one hundred and ten in breadth. It is hollow, and shaped like an inverted bell. From the edges of this bell, or cauldron, as it is called by the natives, it is about forty yards to the bottom, and in many parts of this hollow, they observed smoke and steams of sulphur issuing forth in puffs, an^^ ^^uf heat of the ground in particular f' .i*^ v^is so great, as to penetrate through th «»' ?s of their shoes to their feet. On ob- »vrv.'!( jme spots of earth, or soft clay, they I ivif* the heat with their fingers, but could not thrust them in farther than half an inch ; for the deeper they went, the hotter it was. They then took their guide's staff, and thrust it about three inches deep into a hole or porus place, where the smoke seemed thick«st ; and having held it there about a minute, drew it out, and found it irnt to a charcoal. They gathered here r.»' ny pieces of most curious and beautiful rr.niist nie of all colours, particularly an azure blue, violet, scarlet, green and yellow. "The clouds beneath them, which are at a great distance, made from hence- a very extraordinary appearance : they seemed like a E the ocean, only the surface was not quite so blue and smooth, but had the resemblance of white wool ; and where this cloudy^oceanw as it may be called, touched the mountain, it seemed to foam like billows breaking on the shore. When they ascended through the clouds, it was dark : but when they after-i wards mounted again, between ten and ele- ven o'clock, and the moon shone bright, the clouds were then below them, and about a mile distant. They then mistook them ior the ocean, and wondered at seeing them so near ; nor did they discover their mistake till the sun arose. When they passed through the clouds, in descending from the Peak they appeared as a thick fog or mist, resem- bling those frequently seen in England ? with which all the trees of the wood and theif clothes were wetted, " The air was thin, cold, and piercing on the top of the Peak, like the south-easterly winds felt in the great desert |of Africa, la ascending the sugar loaf, which is very steep, their hearts panted and beat violently, and as hath been already observed, they were obliged to rest above thirty times to take breath ; and this was probably as much owing to the thinness of the air causing a difficulty of respiration, as to the uncommon fatigue they suffered in climbing the hill. Their guidei who was a thin, active old mau was far from being aflfected in the same manner, but climbed up with ease like « goat ; for he was one of the poor men whc earned'their living by gathering brimstone in the cauldron and other volcanoes, the Peak itself being no other, though ithasnotburneci for some years ; for the sygar-loaf is entirely composed of earth mixed with ashes and calcined stones, thrown out of the bowels of the earth, and the great square stones before described, were probably thrown out of the cauldron, or hollow of the Peak, when an eruption happened. "After they had surveyed every thing worthy of notice, they descended to the place where their horses were left, which took them up only half an hour, though they were about two hours andahalf in ascending. It was then about ten in the morning, and the sun shone so exceedingly Lot, as to obligee m g!34 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. them to shelter in the cottage, and being extremely fatigued, they lay down in order to sltep ; but were prevented by the cold', which was so intense in the shade, that they *• vie ohlii?ed to kindle a tire to keep thein- -oives warm. After this, when they had tuUt^ii some repose, they mounted their hniNes about noon, and descending- by the B«tne way they went up, came to some pines, situated about two miles above the clouds. Beiweeu these pines and the Peak, no herb, shrub, tree, or grass can grow, except the before-mentioned ratamas. " At about tive in the evening they arri- ved at Oiotava, not having alighted by the nay to stop, only sometimes to walk wher the road was too steep for riding. The whole distance they rode in the five hours spent in coming down from the English pitching- placeto Orotava, they computed to be about fifteen English miles, traveliiiig at the rate of three miles an hour. "Our author supposes, the perpendicular height of the English pitching pl^ce to be about four English miles, and adding to that a mile of a perpendicular height uom thence to the Peak, observes, that the whole will be about five English miles, and that he is very certain he cannot be mistaken in this calculation above a mile either way." But Mr. Glass may here probably be mis- taken, owing perhaps to his not using any instruments proper for ascertaining the exact altitude of this mountain, which is much higher than either the Alps, or the highest ftart of the Andes, according to this calcu- ation. Dr. T. Heberden .makes its height, above the level of the sea, to be 15,396 English feet ; and says, that this was con- firmed by two subsequent observations by himself, and another made by Mr. Crosse, the consul. The Chejvalier de Borda, com- mander of the French frigate, now lying vrith the Resolution in the road of Santa Cruz, was employed, in conjunction with Mr, Varila, a Spanish g[entleman, in making astronomical observations for ascertaining the going 'of two time-keepers which they had on board their ship. The chevalier measured the height of the Peak, but makes '« tc ^s only 1931 French toises, or 12.340 English feet. If our readers are desirous o| more particulars respecting the above sub^^ jects, they may find them in Sprat's History of the Royal Society, p. 200, &c. History of the Canary Islands by Glass, p. 252 &c» Philosophical Transactions, vol. XLVII. p. 353, &c. and Dr. Forster's Observations during a voyage round the world, p. 32. We proceed now to the history of our voyage. On Sunday, tbe4tk of August, having taken on board our water, and other ne- cessary articles, we wei||[hed anchor, and sailed from the Island ot Teneritie with a tine fresh gale at N. E. between this day u^fi the tenth, our experienced Commantier 'ered his usual attention and parental ci:. respecting both the discipline, nnd health of our company ; for in this interval the mariners were exercised at the great guns and small arms, and the Resolution was twice smoked and cleansed between decks. On Saturday the 10th, at nine o'clock P. M. we descried the Island of Bonavista, bearing S. distant one league; at which time we thought ourselves to have been much farther off. We too soon were made sensible of our mistake ; for after haiuling to the eastward, to clear the sunken rocks that lie near the S. E. point of the Is- land, we found ourselves close upon tliem, and barely weathered the breakers. Our situation was, for a few minutes, so very critical and alarming, that Capt. Cook would not permit us to sound, as by so doing we might have increased the danger* without any possibility of lessening it. Having cleared the rocks, we held on a S. S. W. course till day b^eak on the lltb, when we steered between Bonavista and Mayo, to the westward, with the view of looking into Port Pray a for the Discovery, as Capt. Gierke had been informed of our intention to touch at that |)ort, and we knew not how soon he might follow us. At one o'clock P. M. we came in sight of the rocks S. W. of BonaVista, bearing S. E. distant three leagues,; and on Monday the 12th, at six o'clock, A. M. the Isle of Mayo l>or« S. S. E. distant five leagues. We now sounded, and found ground at sixty fathoms. AND ROUND THE WORLD. 305 At eleven one extreme of Mayo bore E. by fi. aiici the other S. E. by S. In this station two globuldr hills appeared near its N. E. part ; farther on, a large and higher hill ; and about two thirds of its length, a single one that is f "^aked. We were now at the distance of uiree or four miles from this Is- land, at which we saw not the least appear- ance of vegetation ; nor did any other object E resent itself to our view, but that lifeless rown, so common in un wooded countries under the torrid zone. During our conti- nuance among the Cape de Verde Islands, y/e had gentle breezes of wind, varying from the S. E. t« £. and some calms : trom whence we may conclude, that they are cither extensive enough to break the cur- rent of the trade wind, or that they are situated iust beyond its verge, in that space where the variable winds, found on ap- proaching the line, begin. At this time we had suHry and hot weather, attended with rain, and, for the most part the sky was tinged with a thick whiteness, without any transparency, a kind of medium between fogs and clouds. Indeed, the tropical cli- mates seldom have that bright, clear atmos-^ phere, observable where variable winds blow ; nor does the sun shine with its full splendor; if it did, perhaps its rays, being vninterrupted, would occasion an insupport- able heat throughout the day ; as to the nights, they are often remarkably clear and serene. On Tuesday the 13th at nine o'clock, A. M. we were abieast of Port Praya, in the Island of St. Jago, of which in former voya- ges a very particular and full descrption has been given. At this place two Dutch East India shins, and a small brigantine were at anchor ; but the Discovery not being there, and having expended but a small quantity ©four water, in our run from TenerifFe, we did not go in, but stood to the southward. We had lost the "V. E. trade wind, the day after we left the Cape de Verd Islands ; and on Friday the 30tb, tell in with that which blows from the S. E. b«ing then in 2 deg. N. latitude, and in 25 deg. W. longitude. The wind, during this space of time, was mostly m the S. W. quarter. It general I v blew a gentle breeze, but sometimes fresh, and in squalls. We had few calnks, and tliose of short continuance. Between the latitude of 12 deg. and 7 deg. N. the weather was very gloomy, and frequently rainy ; which last circumstance was an advantage to us, as we were enabled to save as much water as filled most of our empty casks. Every bad conse- quence is to be apprehended from these rains, and the close sultry weather with which they are accompanied. Commanders of ships ought therefore carefully to purify the air between decks with fires and smoke, and to oblige the people to change their clothes at every opportunity ; which preservatives ot health, with others mentioned in the two former voyages, were constantly, used by Capt. Cook. On the 14th instant, a firo was made in the well, to air the ship below : on the 15th the spare sails were aired upon deck, and a fire made to air the sail-room : on the 17th cleaned and smoked between decks, and aired the bread room with ures ; on the 21st cleaned and smoked between decks : and on th« 22nd, the men's bedding was spread on the deck to air. We enjoyed the salutary effects of these precautions in a high degree, having fewer sick than on either of Capt. Cook's preceding voyages. Our ship, however, was very leaky in all her uoper works. The sultry weather had open- ed her seams, that had been badly caulked, so wide, that the rainwater passed throngli as it fell. By the water that came in at the sides of the Resolution, the officers in the gun-room were'driven from their cabins, and scarcely a man could lie dry in his bed. The sails in the sail-room also got wet, so that, when the weather became favourable to dry them, we found many much damaged, and a great expence of canvass aid of time betiiuii^ necessary to make them serviceable. Ap soon as we had settled weather, the caulkers were employed to repair these defects ; but the Captain would not trust them over the sides of the ship while we were at s«a ; being always more attentive to tl preservation <>f the health and lives of his company, than to temporary inconveniences and hardships. On Sunday, the 1st of September, in longv tude 27 deg, 38 luin. W. with a fine gale at Jill 996 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, 9. E. by 9. we crossed the equator ; and the afternoon was spent in performing the ridicu- lous ceremony of dockmfc those who had not passed the line before ; a custom we have elsewhere described, and therefore think it sufficient just to mention it in this place. On the 8th we observed in latitude 8 deg. 57 min, S. a little^ to the southward of Cape Augustine, on tfie coast of Brazil ; and con- eluded, that we couid not now be farther off from the continent than thirty leagues at most, and, perhaps not much less, as we had neither soundings, nor any other signs of land. We held on our course without any remarkable occurrence, till the 6th of Octo- ber, being Sunday, when, in latitude 35 de^. 15 min. S. and in 7 deg. 45 min. W. longi- tude, we met with light airs and calms, alter- nately, for three successive days. We had a few days before been visited by albatrosses, pintadoes, and other petrels, and we now saw three penguins ; in consequence of which we s*unded but found no ground with a line of one hundred and fifty rathoms. We shot a few birds, one of which was a black petrel, •bout the size of, and nearly resembling, a crow. On the 8th, in the evening, a bird, which the sailors call a noddy, settled on our rigging, and was taken. It was larger than a common English blackbird, and nearly of the same colour, except the upper part of the head, which is white. It it, web-footed, has black le^jc -xni a long black bill. It is said these birds never venture far from land, yet in our present latitude, we knew of none nearer than Gough's or Richmond Island, which could not. be at a less distance from us than one hundred leagues ; but as the atlantic ocean, southward of this latitude, has been but little frequented, there may possibly be more Islands than we know of. It is here to be observed, that in the night, we frequently saw the appearance of those marine 'lumi- nous animals, mentioned and described in Capt. Cook's first voyage. Many of them were larger than any we had before taken up, andsonumerous sometimes, that hundreds were visible at the same moment. The calm weather was succeeded by a fresh gale from the N. W. which continued t>vo days, after which we bad variable light airs for about 4 twenty-four hours, when the N. W. wind returned with renewed strength. On Thursday the 17th, we came in sight of the Cape of Good Hope ; and on the 18th anchored in Table Bay, in four fa- thoms water. After having received the customary visit from the master attendant and the surgeon, Capt. Cook sent an officer to Baron Plettenberg, the governor, and on his return, we saluted the garrison with thirteen guns, who paid us an equal com- plement. In the bay we found two French East India ships, the one outward, and the other homeward bound. One of the latter, belonging to the same nation, had parted from tier cable, and been stranded about three days before our arrival. The crew were saved, but the ship and cargo were plundered and stolen by the inhabitants; m extenuation of which disgraceful act, the Dutch endeavoured to lay the whole blame on the French Captain, for not applying in time for a guard, a plea which cannot excuU pate them, when considered as a civilized state. The boat was now ordered out, and Capt. Cook, attended by some of his ofliceri went on shore. They waited on the Gover- nor, the Lieatenant-governor or the Fiscal^ and the commander of the troops, by yvhoo} they were received with the greatest civility. Tiie Governor, in particular, promised ut in the most polite terms every assistance that the place afforded. Before Capt, Cooi< returned on board, he ordered bread, meat^ vegetables, &c. to be prcrvided every day for the .ship's company. By this time our numerous subscribers and readers may be anxious to know what is become of our con- sort, the Discovery, whom we left at anchor, on tlie 12th of July, in Plymouth Sound, waiting for the arrival of her commander, Capt. Clerke. We shall therefore, for the information of our friends, make atrip to Plymouth, and attend the Discovery in her run to Table Bay. By the latter end of July, this ship being in readiness^ and ever^ thing necessary got on board, Capt. Clerke gave orders to prepare for sailing ; in conse- quence of whico. On the 1st of August we weighed, with all sails set, to join the Resoliition. While our AND ROtmD THE WORLD. 397 ihip ^ '^ repairing, it was observable, that those 'vho had never been employed on disco- very before, were more impatient to depart, than those who had alreadjr experienced the leverities of a southern navigation near and irithiii the polar circle. It was diverting enough to listen tu the ludicrous remarks of these last, on their fresh water brethren as they called them, whom they ventured to foretel, would, like the Jews in the wilder- ness, be the first to niurmur and cry out for the leeks and the onions of Egypt ; intima- ting thereby, that when these raw sailors came amonf^ the Islands of ice in the frozen regions, to feel the effects of scanty fare and hard duty> they would then be the first to repent their impetuosity, and to sigh for the beef and the beer of the land they were now 10 desirous to leave. We proceeded with a brisk gale till theTth* when in sight of Cape Finisterre the clouds bepan to darken and the ocean to swell, in totlireaten by every appearance an approach- ing tempest. Several ships were then in sii;ht, and we could cleurly discern that they were preparkig as well as ourselves, to meet the storm. For twenty-four hours it blowed and rained incessantly ; but on the 9th a calm succeeded, which however was not of long continuance ; for in the evening of the same day it thundereo, lightned, and the rain poured down in torrents. The drops were iuch as no experienced seaman on board had teen the like. To prevent the effects of the Hghtning, it was thought necessary to let fall the chain from the mast-head : a precaution which Capt. Clerke never omitted when there was«ianiat the irnJe, without dragging her anchors. The etfci^i 400 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, wer«t as sensibly felt on shore ; wiierc the tenU and observatory were destroyeH, and the astronomical quadrant nariowiy escaped irreparable damage. On Sunday the 3rd of November the storm ceased ; and on the 6th, the Hampshire sail- ed for England, in which Capt. Cook sent home an invalid. Captain 1 rimble would have received two or tnree more of our crew, who were troubled with different complaints, but, at this time, we entertained some hopes of their health being re-established. Mon- day the 11th, the Discovery hav.ng anchor- ed, saluted the garrison with thirteen guns, and were answered by the same number ; after which Capt. Cook, with his principal officers^and gentlemen went on board '..^^t ship, to welcome Capt. Clerkeon hisarrival. It being intimated that the Discovery wan- ted caulking, Capt. Cook ordered all our workmen on board her, and lent every other necessary assistance to expedite a supply of water and provisions. The bakers had omit- ted to bake the bread that had been ordered for 'the Discovery, pretending they wanted iltour ; but the truth was, they did not chuse to begin till they saw her moored in the bay. Oh Capt. Clerke's landing this day, he was met by the officers of the garrison, and the gentlemen belonging to the East India Com- pany, who received hi m very politely, and gave him a general invitation to share with them the entertainments of the place. The subordinate otficers were met by another class of inferior uentry, belonging to the same company ; for almost all the otfacers in the pay of the Dutch company, entertain stran- ?:ers, and board them on moderate termj, rom two shillings a day to five. Having by the governor's permission got our cattle on shore, on the night of the Idth, some dogs broke into the pens, and, forcing the sheep out, killed four, and dispersed the rest. The number of our sheep were sixt^<:n, which were penned up, every night, < ectofthe whole country. Its circumfer- ence, I think; must be at least half a mile ; as it took us above half an hour to walk round it, including every allowance for the bad road, and stopping a little. At its high- est part, which is the south end, comparing it with a known object, it seems to equal the dome of St. Paul's Church. It is one unin* terrupted mass of stone, if we except some fissures, or rather impressions, not more than three or four feet deep, and a vein which runs across near its north end. It is of that sort of stone called Saxum conglutinatum, and consists chiefly of pieces of coarse quartz and (climmer, held together by a clayey cement. But the vein which crosses it, though of the jiame materials, is much compacter. This rein is not above a foot broad or thick ; and its surface is cut into little squares or oblongs, disposed obliquely, which makes it look like the remains of soaie artificial work. But I could not observe whether it penetrated far into the large rock, or was only sup«cficial, 2 in «lesrending we found at \tn foot, a fcfy rich bliiek mould : and on the sides of tjjc hills some trees of a considerable size, natives of (lie place, which are a species of the olea." We cannot help thinking, it is stranye, that neither Kolben nor de la Caille shouhl have thought the Tower of Babylon worthy of a particular descripli(U). The former only mentions it as a high mountain: the latter contents himself with telling us, that it is a low hillock, but the very accurate account given of this remarkable rock by Mr. Ander- son, agrees with Mr. S'»nnerat's, who was at the Cape of Good Hope so late as 1781. On the 20th in the morning, the gentlemen set out from the Pearl, and, going a diiferent road, iiassed through an uncultivated coun- try to the Tyger Hills, where (hey saw some good corn fields. About noon tliey stopped in a valley for refreshment, where they were plagued with a vast number of inoscllettos ; and, in the evening, arrived at Ihe Cape- Town, tired sufficiently with tha jolting of the waggon. A very uncommon incident happen; during our stay at the Cape, which might have embroiled us with the government there, had not the delinquent been fonnd out and punished. It was discovered that a number of counterfeit schellings, anddonble keys, had been circulated, and several of our people had taken them in exchange for gold. Complaint was made by our officerj against the inhabitants, f«*r taking the ad- vantage of the^ ignorance of strangers to impose counterfeit money upon them, as it was not to be supp(»sed that they could be judges of the goodness of their country coin. On the other hand, the inhabitants retorted the charge, affirming tliat the bad money proceeded from ns. Each were warm in their allegations, and each were positive in their ojiinions. It was not thought possible, that any of our people could be prepared lo counterfeit Dutch money, and yet there had never been an instance of counterfeit money having been seen at the Cape iietbre the arrival of our shijis at that port. Thus tiie matter rested for sojie lime, till one oi tlio ship's cooks, having obtained leave to tro asibore, made himself drunk, and oferd AND ROUND THE WORI.D. 4on bwe money in pnyment for his liquor. IJe- ing dft.'iincfti. and notice criven to liisi com- mnndinu;^ officer, he caused hiui to be search- ed, when several other pieces of a base coin vere found upon him ; and on examiniup,* his chest, the implements were found art- fully concealed, hy wliitli i»e had l)een enahled to carry ou the fraud. He was in- stantly delivered up to the Dutch (iovernor, to be tried by the laws r«f the country where the offence had been committeil ; but it not beina; clear, wliether the crime of coining was committed on shore, or on board his Britannic Majesty's ship, the Mairistracy very ptditely returned him, to be dealt with as the commander in chief should think uroper; who not being vested with the power of life and death in civil cases, ordered nim to receive the discipline of the ship, and to be sent home in the Hampshire Indiaman. Thus ended a very critical atliiir, of which there is, we believe, no instance upon record. On Saturday, the 23rd of November, we got the observatory, clock, &c. on board. I'roin the result of several calculations and observations, we had reason to conclude, that the watch, or time-piece, had jierformed well all the way from Enjjrland. On the 27tli, orders were given to prepare for sail- inf?; and, fearins;- a second disaster, we got our sheep and cattle on board as fast as pos- sible. The caulkers had tinished their work on board the Discovery, and she had received all her provisions and wnter. Of the former, both ships had a suificient su|>~ ply for two years and upwards. A lari,e quantity of beer was purchased for the com- panies of both ships, at the only brewery that is publicly tolerated within the jurisdic- tion of the town. In short, there is not one necessary article relating to the repairing, providing, and victualling of shipping, that is not to be purchased at the Cape of Good Hope, and inat too at very reasonable prices. The wine at the Cape has been thought dear, because that of the choicest vintage is scarce, and confined to a very small spot. Of the real Constantia, which is the wine so much prized in Europe, the whole planta- tion does not perhans produce more tlian 3 forty pipcsannually, though there may he two or three hundred disposed of under that name. The wine commonly taken on board the shipping tor the othcers, is of a kind not unlike the Madeira, but of an improved HavDur, the vines here being highly sub- limed by the warmth of the .sun, and the dryness of the soil. On Thursday the 28tli, the Governor and principal ofticers belong- ing to the company wereentertaiued on board the Resolution, where they cau»«? to take leave of our Captains, as we expecte«l to sail in a few days, all our live stock being properly .secured on board, and the repairs of both ships being fully completed. On the iiOth, Capt. Cook having given to Capt. Clerke a copy of hi.s instructions, and our letters hav- ing been dispatched to our friends, we ciuit- ted our mooring.s, and next day cuuie to au anchor in eighteen fathoms water. Penguin Island bearing N. by W. six miles; but be- fore we take our final departure, it may not be amiss to observe, that nothing in nature can make a more horrid appearance than the rugged mountains that form Table Bay. One would almost be tempted to think, that the Dutch had made choice of the most bar- ren spot upon earth, to shew what may be effected by slow industry, and continual per- severance ; for besides the craggy cliffs that render the open country almost inaccessiblq, the soil is so sandy and poor, that except •some vineyards, there is scarce a shrub or a tree to be seen within nny walking distance from the place ; insomuch, that the vast profusion of all sorts of provisions, as beef, mutton, poultry, flour, butter, cjjeese, and every other necessary, is brought from four to five and twenty days' journey from Cape Town, where the Governor and Company have their residence. This town, as our readers may recollect, we have fully describ- ed in our history of fornjer voyages, so that little remains to be said, or added in this partof our work. The town is neatly built, and, according to the natural taste and cha- racter of the Dutch, as neatly kept in order. It has the advantage of a small rivulet, by means of which there are conals in all th« principal streets, ou both sides of which are planted rows of stately oaks. The town if vfr fifi: '('' %,1--^ 404 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH PC^LE, situated belo^v tl)e mountains, and when :*een from their summits, appears, with the -gardens and plantations titat run along the shore exceediiigly picturesque : nothing, in- deed, can be more romantic, nor any prospect more pleasintr to the eye. At fivt in the afternoon of this day, a breeze sprung up at S. E. with which, as wc obserted above, we weighed, and stood out of the bay, havinv saluted the fort with eleven guns, which they retursied with an equaJ number: at nine o'clock it fell csihn» aiul we came again to anchor. CHAP II Passage of the Resolution and Discover!/ from the Cape of Good Hope, to Christmas Harbour; ht which Prince Edward's islands are seen, and Kerguclen's land visited ; The two ships arrive at the above harbour ; Description of it, atid an account of occurrences there ; Departure from thena, and explore the coast ; Cape Cumberland Bay^ Point Pr ingle. Hones Foreland, <^c. described The ships in dang-'r from shoals ; Arrive at Port Palliser : Cape George described; Natural history of the animals, plants, soil, SfC of Kerguelen's lord ; Passagefrom hence to Van Dieu^en't fund, in ichieh the Resolution is damaged by a sudden squall ; They arrive in Adventure Bu^/ ; Incidents there ; Various interviews with the natives, and a description of their persons, dress, manners, and customs ; Mr. Andersons remarks ; Course af the Resolution and Discovery t» Queen Churlotte^s Sound m New Zealand, where ice cmchored in our old station. DECEMBER the 1st, 1776, at three o'clock A. Ivi. we weighed and nut to sea, with a ligJjt breeze at S. but diti not get clear of the land till the 3rd in the morn- ing, when with fi fresh gale at W. N. W. we stood to the S. x^. At this time we observed that luminous appearance about our ship, which ditferept navigators have attributed to different causes, but which Dr. Frankliii hijs endeavoured to account for on the principles of electricity. About five in the afternoon, we met with one of tho',e terrible gusts 80 frequently experienced by mariners in doubling: the Cape of Good Hope, in \\!"ich our main-sail was split, but fortunately we received no other damage ; the southern- most land now bore S. by E. distant nine or ten leagues, both ships in company. On Wednesday the 4th, in the morniiisr, it blew a hurricane, and split the jib of the Discovery, and on the 5th, a squall jf wind carrieil away our mizen-t'ju-mast, but having another to re- place it, the loss was not felt. On the 6th, in the evening, being in latitude 39 deg. 14 mip S. and in 23 deg. d6min. E. longitude w# observed several spots of water, of a reddish hue. Upon examining some of this water that was taken up, we perceived a number of small unimals, which the microscope dis- covered to resemble cray-fish. We continu- ed to the S. E. followed by a mountainous sen, which occasioned the ship to roll exceed- ingly, and rendered our cattle troubhsome. Several goats, especially the males, died, and some sheep. On the 8th, the weallier that had been cloudy and boi.-ierous ever since leavintr the Cape, became clear and moderate. In latitude 39 deg. 57 min.S. Mr. King, our second mate, went on board theJDiscovery to compare the time-pieces, an(»sed to be clothed with moss, or perhaps, with such a coarse long grass as is found in joine parts of Falkland's [slandb. On the N. side of each of the Islands is a detached rock ; that near the S. one is shaped like a lower, and seeme(fJ to be at some distance from the shore. These two Islands, and four others more to the east, were discover- ed by the two French navigators, Marion dii Frezne, and Crozet, in January9l772, on their pas'\'ere then order- ed to follow, and himself was the last who entered the boat. They had scarce put oft" when the whole body of natives began their gong of defiance, and discharged their volleys of stones : however, a shot from the ship soon dispersed them, and the company got all safe on board. From this time the natives begun to be troublesome, and made several attemjjts to attack his people by surprize. They formed an attack against the watering i)aity in the night, which, but for the vigi- lance of the guard, would have been fatal to them : after which, they openly attacked the ships in more than a hundred large canoes, full of men, who had cause stiflScient to repent tlieir daring exnidit, having severely felt the destructive etftct of European arms. At length Capt. Crozet, finding it impossible to supply the ships with masts, unless he could drive the enemy from his neighbour- hood, made an attack upon their Ilippah, which they vainly boasted was beyond his power to approa<;li. He (daced the carpen- ters in the front, who, in an instant, levelled tht^ir pallisadoes with the ground ; then cut abrtacli llirough the mound, and levelled the diirh, behind which their warriors were rangf^d in i>;veat numbers on their fighting stages. liito this breach a chief instantly threw liimseir, with his spear in his hand. He was shut (lead by a marksman, and im- jAitiiately another chief occupied his place, 6 stepping on the dead body. He likewise fella victim to his intrepid courage, and in the same manner eight warriors successively defended it, and bravely fell in this post of honour. The rest, seeing their leaders dead, took flight, and the French pursued and kiU led numbers of them. Capt. Crozet offered fiCry jlollars to any person who should take* New Zealander alive, but this was found impracticable. A soldier seized an old man, and began to drag him towards his Captain, b«jt the savage, being disarmed, bit into the fleshy part of his enemy's hand, the exquisitf pain of which so much enraged the soldier, that he ran the fellow through with his bay- onet. In theHi|>pah, that had been stormed, was found great quantities of arms, tools! and clothing, together with store of dried fish and roots, which seemed to be intended for winter provision. Capt. Crozet nowcomple. ted the repairs of his ship without interru|)- tion, and prosecuted his voyage after a stay of sixty four days in the J5ay of Islands from whence, after passing through the wes- tern part of the South Sea, he returned, by the Philippines, to the Isle of France. We cannot help remarking here, that there appears some inconsistency in theabovf r.Mation. It seems improbable, if Marion was murdered in the Hippah, situated vn the prominence of an inaccessible rock, tlia! the boat's crew below, who landed him, should not make their escape : and much more improbalde, that neither the leader »ior his followers should be missed, till the wood- men were massacred by the savages the next day. Upon the whole, we are rather inclin- ed to think, considering the importance of the place, that the loss might be sustaind by fair combat. M. Marion might find it necessary for the safety of his people, to drive the sava'ges from their Hip|)ah or Fort, which is one of the strongest in New Zealand, bi the opinion of Capt. Cook, it is a place of great strength, in which a small number of resolute men may defend themselves against all the force, which a people with no other arms than those that are there in nse, cnnid bring against it. . Ca|»t. Cro/et might, there- fore, think it less dishonourable to attribute the loss of his general and so many meu, to AND ROUND THE WORLD. 407 that bovf riott tliat hiin, inch rnor nod- next olin- e (if intd ul It Irive hioh lu e of i; of linst ther Ollld leie- hute to the treachery, rather than the valour of the ravages ; who, it is acknowledged, defended the place bravely. But to proceed. As the two Islands, between which we passed, have no names in the French chart of the southern hemisphere, Capt. Cook nam- ed them Prince Edwards Island's, and the other four Marion's and Crozet's Islands. We had now for the most part strong gales between the N. and W. and but very inditie- fe\it weather ; not better, indeed, than we generally have in England in the very depth of winter, thouQ;h it was now the middie of mnntner in this hemisphere. In consequence ofthe piercing cold, the Captain ordered the jackets and trowsers to be delivered out, which, with the blankets, and other warm clotliing, provided by 'he Lords ofthe Ad- miralty against the severity of the frozen climates, werefonnd of intioiteuse iu preserv- ing the men in health, who were most exposed to the action of the frost. After leaving Prince Edward's Islands, we shaped our course to the S. E. with a brisk gale at W. S. W. in order to pass to the southward ofthe four olhers ; and to get into the latitude ofthe land discovered by M. de Ke K^rgue- len. Capt. Cook had received instruction to txamiiie this Island, and endeavour to dis- cover a good harbour. On Monday the lOtli, in latitude 48 deg. i) niiu. and in longitude 52 tlea:. E. we saw nuiibuiN of penguins, and rook-weed float- ing in the stn. On the 17th, the fogs came on so thick, that we could but just discern objects at the distance of the ship's length ; oil accodiit of which signals wer*? appointed, and repeated every half hour. As we hourly e\|)ected to fill in with laud, our naviganon was l)oth tedious and dangerous. On the 2bt, we siiw a very lurge seal, and a heavy stonn came on, attendetl with sleet and heavy gusts of ! J ail. On Tuesday the 24tli, at six o'clock, A. M. the fog clearing away n little, we saw laud, bearing S. S. E. which we afterwards found to be an Islatid of con- ^•(IciMhle height, and about three leagues in oir.'nit. We soon alter discovered another of equal magnitude, al)out one league to tii« eastward ; and between these two, some ''laatler odcj. In the direction of S. by E. another high Island was seen. This we did but just weather; it was a high round rock, named Bligh's Cap. Our Commander sup- posed this to be the same that M. de Ker- guelen called the Isle of Rendezvous ; but we know of nothing that can rendezvous upon it but the birds of the air, for it is certainly inaccessible to every other animal. The weather beginning to clear up, we tack- ed, and steered in for the land ; and at noon we determined the latitude of Bligh's Cap to be 48 deg. 29 min. S. longitude 68 deg. 40 min. E. We passed it at three o'clock, with a fresh gale at W. standing to the S. S. E. Presently after we saw the land of which we had a faint view in tlie mornii:g ; and at four o'clock, extending from S. E. half E. and distant four miles. The left extreme, which we judged to be the nor- thern point of this land, in the Frenoli chart of the southern hemisphere, Cape Francois, terminated in a high per|)endicular vo«'k, and the right one in a high indented point, which by its appearance, seemed to be, what is represented on Kerguelen's chart under the name of Cape Aubert. It may be pro- per to observe here, that all that extent of coast lying between Cape Louis and Cape Fra'>'^ois, of which the French saw very litt luring their first visit in 1"72, and may be called the N. W. side of lids land, they had it in 'heir pow«r to trace the posi- tion in 1773, and have as igned names to some ©fits bays, rivers, an<{ promontories. From this point the coast seethed to turn short round to the southward, tor ue could see no land to the westward ofthe direction in which it now bore to us, bat the Islands we had observed in the morning. Kergue- len's Isle de Clugnv, the mo^* southerly of them, lies nearly \t^. from the point, about two or three leagues disf Towanls the middle ofthe land there appeared to be an inlet; but on our approaching it, we saw it was only a bending on the coast : we therefore bore up to go round Cajje Fran- cois. Soon after, land opened off the Cape, in the direction of S. .M deg. E. appearing as a point at a considerable distance ; t^»r the trending ofthe coast from the Cape was k!iore southerly. We also de*<:ii«d rocks :» :m VOYAGE TOWARIKS THE NORTH POLE, •nd Tsland^ to the eastward of the above directions, the most distant of which was ai)out seven leagues from the Cape. Hav- ing got off this, we observed the coast to the southward, much indented by points and bays, and, therefore, fully expected to find a good Ijarbour. We soon discovered one behind the Cape, into which we began to ply ; but it presently fell calm; and we anchored in forty-tivt fathoms water, as the Discovery also did soon after. Mr. Bligh the master, was ordered to sound the har- bour ; who reported it to be safe and com- modious. On Wednesday the 25th, early in the morning, we weighed, and, having wrought into the harbour, anchored in eight fathoms water, bottom a fine dark sand. At two o'clock, P. M. Uie Discovery got in, when Cant. Clerke informed us, that he had with difhcuity escaped being driven on the S. point of the harbour, his anchor having start- ed before he could shorten the cable. They were, therefore, obliged to set sail, and drag the anchor after them, till they had room to heave it up ; when they perceived that one of its palms was broken. Immediately after we had anchored, all the boats were ordered to be hoisted out, and the empty water casks to be got ready. In the mean time Capt. Cook landed, to search for a convenient spot where they might be filled, and to ob- serve what the place atforded. We found ninnbers of pengui'.is, seals, and otlier fowls, on the shore. The seals were not numerous, but so insensible of fear, that we killed as many as we chose, and made use of their fat and blubber to make oil for our lamps, and other purposes. Fresh water was ex- ceedingly plentiful ,- but not a single tree or shrub was to be discovered, and but little herbage of any kind ; though we had flatten- ed ourselves with the hope of meeting wit!i •on)ething considerable here, having observ- ed the sides of some of the hills to be covered with a lively green. Before Capt. Cook returned to the ship, he ascended a ridge of rocks, rising one above another, expecting, by that means, to obtain a view of the coun- try ; but before he had reached the lop, so Jiick a fog- came on, that it was with difficuU ty he could find his way down again. To- wards the evening we hauled the seine at the head of the harbour, but caught no more than half a dozen small fish ; nor had we any better successthenextday, when we tried vvitli hook and line. Our only resource, tlierefori* for fresh provisions, was birds, whi« ii werti innumerable. On Thursday the 2G\h, the surf was rather inconvenient for landinjf, and the weather rather foggy and rairiv • nevertheless, we began to cut grass for our cattle, and to fill water ; we found the for mer near the head of the harbour, and tl;« latter in a brook at the left corner of the beach. The rivulets were swelled to such a ottle contained a j)iere of parchment, with this inscription, " Lndorivo XV. Gain arum regey ct d, (probably a con- traction of the word Domino) de Jioi/]ies regi a Secretisad res maritimas amiis In'i et 1773." From which it is evident, m were not the first Europeans who had liMted this harbour. Capt. Cook supposes it lo have been left by M. de Boisguehennemvho went on shore the 13th of February, 1772, the day that M. de K» giielen discovered this land ; but the Capi.iin appears to be lor once mistaken ; for how could M. inning of 1772, leave an inscription which coramemi>r8teut that at last, on the f>th of January, M. de Rosnevet, Captain of the Oiseau, was able to send his boat on^ shore in this bay, under the com- mand of M. de Rocheguide, one of his offi- cers, " who took possession of that bay, and of all the country, in the name of the king of France, with all the requisite formalities. Hence then we tracf., by the most unexcep- tionable evidence, ilie history of the bottle and the inscription ; the leaving of which was, no doubt, one of the requisite formali- ties observed by M. de Roclieguide on this oc- casion. And though he did not land till the 6th of January, 1774, yet as Kerguelen's ships arrived upon the coast on the 14th of Decem- ber, 1773, and had discovered and looked into this very bay on the I7th of that month, it was with the strictest propriety and truth that 1773 and not 1774 was mentioned as the date of the discovery. We may now fairly conclude from the above particulars, that Capt. Cook's groundless supposition sprung from want of information, that might enable him to make any other. He had no idea that the French had visited this land a second time ; and reduced to the necessity of trying to accommodate what he saw him- selfj to what little he had heard of their pro- ceedings, he confounds a transaction which we, who have been better informed, know for a certainty, belongs to the second voyage, with a si miliar one, which his chart of the Southern Hemisphere has recorded, and which happened in a different year, and at a different place. Nor can a doubt remain, that these Islands we now fell in with, are the same discovered by Kerguelen : but that M. de Kerguelen ever saw a great couuo try, such as he pretends to have seen, in. -or near those Islands, is very problematical. There are, indeed, nuuiberless IsJauds tbioly m f ;S mm . 4-- 1 . 410 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, scattered in this almost ooundless ocean ; but there are none so superior to those alrea- dy discovered in riches and cultivation, as to be worth the search, will scarcely admit a question. We now think it time to return to the history of our voyage. Capt. Cook, as a memorial of our having been in this harbour, wrote on the other side of the parchment these words " Naves Re- solution et Discovert/, de Rege Ma^nee Britannite, Decembns 1776," that is, "The sliips Resolution and Discovery, belonging to the King of Great Britain, in the month of December, A. D. 1776." He then put the parchment a^ain into the bottle, accom- l^anied with a silver two-penny piece of 1772, coverinp: ifs mouth with a leaden cap, nnd placed it the next morning in a pile of stones, erected for that purpose on an emi- nence, near the place where it was first found. Here we displayed the fiiitish flag, and named the place Christmas Harbour, it being on that festival we arrived in it. JX is thi first inlet we meet with on theS. E. side of Cape Francois, which forms the north side of the. harbour, and is the northern point of this land. The situation sufficiently distinguishes it from any of the other inlets ; and which is still more remarkable, its south point terminates in a high rock, perforated <|oite through, and forming an appearance like the arch of a bridge. If there could be the least doubt remaining of the indentity of the Baie de L'Oiseau, and Christmas har- bour^ this particular of the perforated rock, which in tne account of Kergnelen's second Yoyage, is compared to an arched gateway, would amount to a strict demonstration ; and it is very satisfactory to find the two navigators, neither of whom knew any thing of the other's description, adopting the same idea, which both^prnves, that they had the same uncommon object before their eves, and that they made an a cm rate report. The harbour has another mark within, being a single stone or rock, of a vast size, winch lies on the top of a hill, on the south-side, near its bottom ; and opposite this, ^tn the north- tide is another hill, smalifr, but much like it. At the bottom of this is a small beach where we commonly landed : behind it is 2 some gently rising ground, whereon'is a'poo, offresn water. On both sides of the inlet the land is high. The inlet run» in W. and W. N. W. two miles : its breadth, for more than half it.«i length, is one mile and a quarter above which it is only half a mile. The shores are steep. The depth of water, wFiicJi is forty-five fathoms at the entrance, varies from thirty, and if you proceed farther in, to four and five fathoms. The bottom is every where a fine dark sand, except in $oine places near to the shore, where are heds of sea-weed, which always grows on rocky ground. The head of the harbour lies open only to two points of the compass; and even these are covered by Islands in the otliii were at that time covered with snow, thongh answering to our Jnne. It is reasonable to imagine that rain must be very frequent here, as well from the marks of large torrents having rushed down, as from the appearance of the country which even on the hills, was a con- tinued bog or swamp. The rooks consist principally of a dark blue and very hard stone, intermixed with particles of glimmer. Some considerable rocks were also formed here from a brownish brittle stone. These are the remarks of the ingenious Mr. Ander- son, Capt. Cook's surgeon. Having sailed out of Christmas Harbour, we steered S. E- along the coast with a fine breeze and clear weather. This was unex- pected, as, for some time past, fogs had pre- yailed more or less t:very day. Though we kept the line constantly going, we seldona struck grourid with a line of sixty fathoms. At eight o'clock, A. M. we were off a pro- montory, which was named Cape Cumber- land, it lies a league and a half from the Aouth point of Christmas Harbour; between them is a good bay. Otf Cape Cumberland is a small Island, on the summit of which is a rock resembling a sentry box, which name was g^ven to the Island on that account. Some small Islands and rock», with broken ground around them, lie two miles farther to the eastward ; between which aiid sentry- box Island we sailed, the breadth of the channel being full a mile. We found no bottom with forty ' fathoms line. When through this channel, we saw, on the south side of Cape Cumberland, a bay, running in three leagues to the westward. It is formed ? y this Cape to the north, and by a promon- tory to the south, which was named Point Pringle, as a complement from onrCaptain to Sir John Pringle, President of the Royal So- ciety. The bottom of this bay we called Cum- berland Bay.. The coast, to the southward of Point Pringle, forms a fifth bay, which we called White Bay, wherein are several lesser bays orcove«, which seemed to be sheltered from all winds. Otf the south point, several rocks rai'se their heads above water, and probably there are many others that do not Thus tar our course was in a direction paral^ lei to the coast, and not more than Imh miles from it ; and the country had the same sterile and naked aspect as in the neighbour- hood of Christmas Harbour. The land which first opened ofl=*Cape Francois, in the direction of south 53 deg. E. we had keot in our larboard-bow, thinking it was an Is- land, with a passage between that and the main ; but we found it to be a peninsula joined to the rest of the coast by a lowistijuH,/ The bay, formed by this peninsula, we called Repulse Bay ; and the northern point of the fienihsula was named Howe's Foreland, in lOMour of Lord Howe. Drawing near it vve observed some rocks and breakers, not far from the N. W. part, and two Islands to the eastward of it, which, at first, appeared as one. We steered between them and the Foreland, and by noon, were in the middle of the channel. The land of this Foreland or peninsula is of a tolerable height, and ot a hilly and rocky substance. The coast in low ; almost covered with sea-birds ; and we perceived some seals upon the beaches Having cleared the rocks and Islands before mentioned, we aw the whole sea before us to be checquered "with large beds of rock weed, which was fast to the bottom There is often found a great depth of water upon such shoals, and roeks have, as often raised their heads almost to the surface of the water. It is always dangerous to sail over them, especially when there is no sun?e ot the sea to discover the danger. We endea- voured to avoid the rocks, by steering through the wniding channels by which they were separated. Though the lead was continually going, we never struck ground with a line of sjjity fathoms; this increased the danger, as we could nt>t anchor, however urgent the necessity might be. At length we discover- ed d lurking rock, in the middle of one of the beds of weeds, und even with the surface ot the sea. This was sufficiently alarming to make us take every precaution to avoid dan- ger. We were now about eight miles to the AND ROUND THE WOULD. 413 :toathv«rd of Howe's Foreland, across the mouth of a large bay ; in which were several rocks, low Islands and beds of sea-weed ; but there appeared to be winding channels between them. We were so much embar- rassed with these shoals, that we hauled otf to the eastward, in hopes of extricating our- selves from our difficulties ; but this pl.unged us into greater, and we found it absolutely necessary to secure the ships, if possible, before night, especially as the weather was |»azy, and a fog was apprehended. Observ- ing some inlets to the S. W. Capt. Gierke tr^s ordered, (the Discovery drawing less watfer than the Resolution) to lead in for the shore, which was immediately attempt- ed. In standing in we could not avoid running over the edges of some of the shoals, on which was found from ten to twenty fa- thoms water ; but the moment we were clear of them, we had no ground at the depth of fifty fathoms. Having weathered a spit that runs out from an Islnnd on our lee, Capt. Clerke made the signal for having discovered an harbour, in which we anchor- ed in fifteen fathoms water, about five o'clock in the evening, near a mile from the shore. The N. point of the harbour bore N. by E. half E. one mile distant, and the small Islands in the entrance, within which we anchored, extended from E. to S. E. No sooner were the ships secured, than it began to blow so very strong, that we found it necessary to strike toj)-gallant yards. The weather, however contmued fair, and it pre- sently became clear, the wind having dis- persed the fog that had settled on the hills. As soon as we had anchored, Capt. Cook ordered two boats to be hoistecl out ; in one of winch he dispatched Mr. Blicli, the mas- ter, to survey the upper part of the harbour, and look out for wood. He also desired Capt. Clerke to send his master to sound the channel, S. of the small Isles, and that having landed on both shores, he found the soil rocky, without a tree or shrub, or hardly any appearance of verdure. Monday the 30th, both wind and weather favouring us, we weighed anchor, set sail, and put out to sea. To the harbour we had left, the name was given of Port Palliser, in honour of Admiral Sir Hugh Palliser. It lies in the latitude of 49 deg. 3 min. S. longi- tude, 69 deg. 37 min. E. distant five leagues fi"om Howe's Foreland ; and in the direction ofS. 25 deg. E. W^hen standing out, we discovered a round hill, like a sugar loaf, i'l the direction of S. 72 deg. E. distant about nine leagues ; having the appearance of an Island, but we afterwards found it was upon the main land. In getting out to sea^iu 414 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLP., general, we steered through tlie winding channels among the shoals, though we sonne- times ventured to run ov«r them, on which we never found less than eighteen fathoms water ; nor would they have been discovered, had it not been for the sea weed growing upon them. Having got three or four leagues from the coast, we found a clear sea, and steered E. till nine o'clock A. M. at which time the sugar-loaf hill, above men- tioned, which we named Mount Campbell, bore S. E. and a small Island, to the north- ward of it, S. S. E. distant four leagues. We now steered more southerly, in order to get in with the land. At noon we observed in latitude 49 deg. 8 min. S. longitude from Cape Francois eighty miles E. Mount Camp- bell boreS. 47 deg. W. distant four leagues ; and a low point S. E. at the distance of about twenty miles. We were now little more than two leagues from the shore. This part of the coast seems to be what the French saw on the 4th of January 1774. The land, in general, is level. The mountains end about five leagues from the low point, leaving a great extent of low land, whereon Mount Campbell is situated. These mountains seemed to be composed of naked rocks, whose summits are covered with snow : and in the valley sterility only is visible. When we had finished taking our meridian alti- tudes, we discovered more land opening oft* the low point just mentioned, in the direc- tion of S. S. E. and eight miles beyond it. It proved to be the eastern extremity of this land, and we named it Cape Digby. It lies in latitude 49 deg. 23 min. S. and in 70 deg. 34 rain. E. longitude. Between Howe's Foreland and Ca|)e Digby, the shore forms one great bay, extending several leagues to the S. W. A prodigious quantity of sea- weed grows over it, which seemed to be such as Mr, Banks distinguished by the name of fucus giganteus. Though the stem of this weed is not much thicket than a man's thumb, some of it grows to the amazing length, of sixty fathoms. Having run two leagues'upon a S. E. half E. course, at one o'cluck.P. M. we sounded, and had eighteen fathoms water, with a bottom of fine sand. <>bt€rviDg SLsmall.bending in the coast, we steered for it, with an intention to ancnor there; but being disappointed in our views. we pushed forward, in order to see as inticli as possible of the coast before night. Froiti Cape Diffby it trends nearly S. W. by S. ti> a low point, which we named Point Char- lotte, in honour of the Queen. In the dU rection of S. S. W. about six leagues fioin Cape Di^by is a pretty high projecting Eoint, which we called the Prince of Wales* 'oreland : and six leagues bevond that, in latitude 49 deg. 54 min. 8. longitude 70 deg. 13 min. E. is the mo.st southerly point of the whole coast, to which, in honour of his present Majesty, we gave the name of Cape George. Between Point Charlotte, and the Foreland we discovered a deep inlet, which was named Royal Sound, into which, on the S. W. side of the Prince of Wales' FWeland, we saw another inlet; and it then appeared, that the Foreland was the E. ^oint of a large Island lying in the mouth of it. There are several small Islands in this inlet ; and one about a league to the southward of the above mentioned Foreland. On the S. W. side of the Royal Sound, all the land to Cape George consists of elevated hills, gradually rising from the sea to a considerable height, having their summits capt with snow, and appearing at barren, as those we had hitherto seen. Nei- ther inland, nor on the coast, could we dis- cern the smallest vestige of a tree or shruh: but some of the low land about Cape Digby, though for the most part desolate, seemed to be clothed with a green turf. On the sandy beaches penguins and other sea fowls were numerous ; and shags kept continually fiying about the ships. In order to get the length of Cape George, we continued stretch- ing to the S. under all the sail we could carry, till between seven and eight o'clock, yvhen seeing no probability of accomplish- ing our design, we took advantage of the wind, which had .shifted to W. S. W. (the direction, in which we wanted to go) and stood away from the coast. Cape George now bore S. 53 deg W. distant seven leagues. We saw no land to the S. of it, except a small Island that lies oiF the pitch of the Cape ; and a S. W. swell, which we met AND ROUND THE WORI.D. 41d when we brought the Cape to bear in this direction, conlinned ns in the opinion, that there was iio more in that quarter. But to use Capt. Cook's own words, " We have, says he still a stron^u^er proof, that no part ot'tliis land can extend much, it' at all, to the southward of Cape Georjfe ; and that is, Capt. Furneaux's track in Fel)riiary 1773, after his separation from me during my late voyai;e. Ilis log-hook is now lying before iiie ; and I tind from it. that he crossed the meridian of this land only about seventiicn leafi;u»^s to the southward of Cape Geortjer a distance at which it may very well be seen in clear weather. This seems to have l>een the case wlien Capt. Furneaux passed it. For his locr-book makes no mention of fou^s or hazy weather ; on the contrary, it ex- pressly tells us, that, when in this situation, they had it in their power to make observa- tions, both for latitude and longitude, on board his ship ; so that, if this land extends farther S. than Cape George, it wouhl have been scarcely possible that he should have passed without seeing it. From these cir- cumstanoes we are able to determine, within a very few mile.s, the quantity of latitude that this land occupies, wiiich does not much exceed one dejfree and a quarter. As to its extent from E. to VV. that still re- mains undecided. We only know, that no part of it can reach so far to the W. as the meridian of (55 his singular journey round the world. We now took leave of Kerguelen's land ; and Capt Cook, pursuant to his instructions, intended to proceed next to New Zealaixl, to take in wood and water, and provide hay for the cattle ; their number by this time, having been considerably diminished ; for v| WjWr m ?.'■ 4lV VOYAGE T0U'AIM>S THK XOjJTII POLK, vvliile c\|)!ori;i,ir KerpnelenS desolate lany ohservations of the sun anil moon, we foun\ 1777, wc were in latitude 48 deg. 47 min. ». longi- tude 7<> deg". 5() min. E. when we observed quaiitities of sea weed passing to leeward, in a direction contrary to that we bad seen in approaching the last mentioned Islands, which gave reason to suppose, there were other lands at no great distance, and affords some ground for believing, that M. de Ker- guelen mitrht have seen other lands in this latitude. On the 3rd, in latitude 48 deg. 16 min. S. longitiide 85 deg. E. we had the weather tolerably clear, with fresh gales frohi the W. and S. W. but now the. wind veered to the N. and continued in that quarter eight days, during which, though there was at the same time a thick fog, we run u[)wards of three hundred leagnes, chietly in the dark : the sun, indeed, some- times made its appearance, but very rarely, and but for a very shrtrt time. On the 7th, H boat was dispatched with orders to Capt. Clerke, fixing our rendezvous at Adventure IJay in Van 'Diemen's land, should the two ships happen to separate before they arrive|l there; however, we had the good fortune not to lose company with each other. On Sunday the I'ith, the northerly winds were .succeeded by a calm, which was soon fol- lowed by a southerly wind. Our latitude was now 48 deg. 40 min. S. longitude 110 deg. 26 min E. The wind blew from the S. for twenty-four hours, and then veering to the W. and N. W. brought on clear and fair weather. We continued our course eastward, and on Tuesday tlie 14th, a hur- ricane arose, accompanied with so thick a fog, that the ships were every moment in danger of falling foul one of the other. We kept the fog hell constantly ringing, and gurts firing, which were answered by the Dis- covery. On Sunday tlie 19tli, a sudden 8 squall carried away oiw fore-top-mast, and! niain-top-trnllant-mast, which took us up the whole day to clear the wreck, and to fit another fop-mast. Not having a spare main, lof»-gallant-niast on board, the fore-t(in, gallant-mast was converted int8 onie for m, mediate use. On the 20th, Hie weather briuhteneil up, the wind continued westerly, and we had a brisk but moderate gale in the afternoon, when we set all the sail we could, unreefed our top-sails, and run at tlie ratenf seven and eight miles an hour by the log, both ships in company. On the 22nil Mr. King went on board the Discovery to compare the time-pieces. At this time our company were in perfect health, those of the crew only excepted, who had been hurt at the Cape, and even they were fit to do duty. The damages we had received during the blowing weather were not considerable as might have been expected. On Friday the 24th, at three o'clock, A.M. we discovered the coast of Van Diemen's land, bearing N. W. half W. The Mewstone so named by Capt. Furneaux, in 1773 bore N. E. by E. distant three leagues. We made the signal for seeing land, which was answer, ed by the Discovery. Several Islands and high rocks are strewed along thispartof the coa.st, the southermost of which is Mewstone, a round elevated rock, five or six leagues distunt from the S. W. Cape, in the direction of S. iVi (leg. E. Our latitude, at noon, 43 deg. 47 min. S. longitude 147 deg, E. in which situation a round topped hill bore N. 17 deg. W. the S. W. Cape N. 74 deg. W. the Mewstone W, half N. Swilly Isle or Rock S. 49 deg. and the S. E. or S. Cape, N. 40 tlef^. E. distant near three leagues. The land between the S. W. and the S. Capes is broken and hilly, the coa.st winding, with points shooting out from it ; but we were at too great a distar^ce, to be able to judge whether the bays formed by these points were sheltered from the sea winds. The bay which appeared to be the largest and deepest lies to the westward of the elevated peaked hill above mentioned. On the 2oth at six o'clock A. M. we sounded and found ground at sixty fathoms, .sand an(l slielly bottom The South Cape then bore N-. 7o S( a w AND JlOtND THE WOIILiy. Im. W. tit d ]ettglf»« shore, from which we concluded, that, though their consternation had made them leave us rather abruptly the preceding day, they thought we intended them no mischief, and were de- sirous of renewing the intercourse. Of this we were soon convinced ; for we had not been long landed before twenty of them, men and boys, joined us, without expressing the least sign of fear or distrust ; one of whom was distinguished not only by his deformity, but by the drollery of his gesticu- lations, and the seeming humour of his speeches, though we could only guess at their general import, the language spoken here being wholly unintelligible to us. Our Commander thought this to be different from that spoken by the inhabitants of the more northern parts of this country, whom he met with in his first voyage ; which is not extra- ordinary, since those we now saw, and those we then visited, differ in several respects : particularly with regard to the texture of their hair. The natives whom the Captain met with at Endeavour River in 1769, are said, bv hifti, " to have naturally long and black hair, though it be universally cropped short. In general it is strait; but sometimes it has a slight cnrl. We saw none that was not matted and filthy. Their beards w?r« of the same colour with the hair, and busby and thick." At this time Capt. Cook was unwilling to allow that the hair of the na- tives we now saw in Adventure Bay was woolly, fancying that his people, who first observed this, had been deceived, from its being clotted with grease and red ochre. ijiit Lieutenant King prevailed on him afterwards; to examine carefully the hair of the l)oys, which was generally, as well as that of the women, free from this dirt ; and then the Captain owned himself satisfied, that it was naturally woolly. Perhaps this circumstance was the occasion of his being deceived, when he was in Endeavour River, for he sa} s expressly, " they saw none that was not matted and filthy." Some of our present visitors had a slip of'kangoorooskiii round their ancles : aiul others wore round their neck."' t?iree or four folds of small cord, made of the fur of some animal. They seemed not to value iron, but were apparently v; !ii !• t ii?« f If i I :■ 'I ■^^^VP^^H 420 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, If njeaseii witli the medals and strings of beads tliat were given tbeni. They did not seein, even to kno\y the use of tish-hooks, though it is more than probable, that they werq acquainted vyith some method of catching fish, wliich Would naturally be adopted by those who inhabit a sea-coast, and who de- rive no part of their sustenance from the productions of the gr<»und. Tiiey rejected the sort of fish we ottered them, yet it was evident, that shell-fish, at least, made a part of their food, fi'om the heaps of muscle- shells we saw near the shore, and about the usual places of their resort. Their wigwams, or habitations, were small hovels or sKeds, built of sticks, and covered with the bark of a tree. We had good reason to suppose, that they sometimes too4i up tlieir residence in the trunks of jarge trees, hollowed out by fire. In or near their huts, and wher- ever there was a heap of shells, there we )erceived the remains of fire ; an indubita- ble proof that they do not eat their food raw. Vor do they seesnsuch miserable wretches as the natives whom Dam pier mentions to have seen on its western coast. Yet we must here observe, that Dampier's miserable wretches, on the western coast of New Holland, in many instances, bear a striking resemblance to those seen by Capt. Cook at Van Diemen's land : as (1st.) Their soon becominj; familiar with strangers, (•ind ) As to tlieir persons ; being straight ofstritiiie and thin ; their skin thick and black, their hair black, short, and curled, like those of the negroes of Guinea ; with wide mouths, (^dly.) As to their mean condition ; having no houses, no garments, no canoes, no instnnnonts to <.'atch large fish ; feeding on broiled muscles, cookies, and j»eriwinkles ; having no fruils of the earth ; their wea|)ons a straight pole, sharpened and hardened at the end, &c. But the chief pecu- liarities of Dampier's New Hollanders, on accoinit of nhich tiieyare improperly called miserable wretche^;, are, (I st.) Their eye-lids being always half closed, to keep the flies out, Wliich were exceedingly troublesome tijere ; and (2ndiy.) Their wanting the two foie-teelhof ihe n{)per jaw, and having iioiieaids. When llie party with lieutenant King, 4 with whom was Mr. Anderson, Capt. Cook's surgeon, had landed, the naiives appeared divested of their fears, and- issued from the tliickets like lierds oi' deer from a forest. They were armed with lances «^bowt two feej long, terminated with a shark's tooth or piece of bone sharpened to a point, wliick they threw to a great distance, and these were the whole of their armour. Some women and children were introduced to Mr King, to whom he gave presents of such trifles as he had about him. He also offered aH oi them nails, knives, beads, and other toys, to which they paid li.tle or no attention, but were greedy after shreds of red cloth. Mr. Anderson having, with his usual diligence! spent the few days we continued in Adven- ture Bay, in examining the natural produc- tions of the country and its inhabitants, we shall here insert the substar.ce of his remarks; anu we doubt not but that the ob.servation9 of this ingenious gentleman, wiU, by the curious part of our readers, always be thought worth attending to. There is, ob- serves Mr. Anderson, a beautiful sandy beach, about two miles long, at the bottom of Adventure Bay, formed, to all ap|)eai- ance, by the particles which the sea washes from a white sand stone, that in many places bounds the shore. This beach, about tuo miles lorsr, is well adapted for hauling the seine. Behind it is a plain, with a brack- ish lake, out of which we caught, by ano- ling, some whitish bream, and small tioiif, The parts adjoining the bay are mostly hilly ; and both these and the flat are adorned with one continued forest of tall trees, rendered almost iinpassable to stran- gers, bv breaks of fern, shrubs, and fallen trees: but on the sides of some of the liills, where the trees are thin, the only interrup- tion is a coarse grass. Northward of the bay is low land, stretching farther than the eye can reach, covered only wjth wood in certain spots ; but an opportunity was not afforded us of examining in what i)eculiaii- ties it diflered from the hilly country. The soil on the flat land, and on the lower part of the hills is sandy, or consists of a yellow- ish earth, and in some parts of u reddish clay ; but farlhec u,p the hills, it is of a grey loui;li AND ROUND THE WORLD. m cast, and appeared to be very poor. Be- tween tUe hills, the water drains down from tbeir sides, fbrniin<^ at last Ninall brooks, sufficient to supply us with water : yet, upon the whole, this country hears many marks ol' beinj? dry ; and, settini^ aside its wood, mii^ht be compared to Africa, about the Cape of Good Hope, (though that lies ten dcrees farther northward) rather than to ])^evv Zealand, on its other side, in the same latitude, where every valley, however small, is furnished with a considerable stream of water. We foand the heat here excessive ; insoinnch, that birds were seldom killed an hour or two, before they were almost cover- ed with maggots. No mineral bodies, nor stones of any other kind than the white sand stone, were observed by us ; nor could we find any vegetables that afforded the' smallest si'.bsistence for men. The forest trees are all of one kind, and generally straii^ht ; branchina: but little till towards the top. The bark i« white, which makes them appear at a distance, as if they had been peeled. The leaves of this tree are long, narrow, and jminted ; ;iad it tears clusters of white small flowers, whose caps were, at this time, plentifully soii-ttered about tiie j,'round, with a-iotlier sort resembling them somewhat in shape, but innoh larger ; which makes it prohable that there are two species of this tree. The bark of the smaller branches, fruit, and leaves, have an agreea- ble pungent taste, and aromatic smell, not unlike peppermint. The next tree observed was a small one, about ten feet high, brancli- iug pretty much, with narrow leaves, and a large, yellow, cylindrical tiovver, consisting only of a vast number of filaments ; which,- being shed, leave a fruit like a pine-top. IJotli these trees are unknown in Enrope. Of plants, by no means numerous, we found a species of gladiolus, rush, bell-flower, sanipliire, wood-sorrel, milk-wort, cnd- weed, Job's tears, mosses, and several kinds of fern ; but the species are either common, or, at least, found in some other countries, particularly New Zealand. The only quad- ruped we saw distiiictly was a species of opossum, about twice the size of a large rat ; of a dusky colour above, tinged with a brown or rusty cast, g»nd whitish below. About the third of the tail, towards its tip, is white, and bare urnlerneath ; bv\i^hich it probably' bangson the bi^anchesoftree^, as it climbs these, itnd lives on berries. The kangooroo, found further northward in New Holland, m^yalso be supposed 1o inhabit here, a» seme of the natives had pieces of the skin of that animal. From the dung we saw" almost every where, and from the narrotv tracks perceived among the shrubbery, it should seem also, tluit they are in considera- ble numbers. The principal sorts of bird* are brown hawks or eagles, crows, large pigeons, yellowish p.troquets, and a specie* which we called motacilla-cyanea, from the beautiful azure colour of its neck and head. On the shore were several gulls, black oyster- catchers, or sea-pies, and, plovers of a stone colour. These birds are all so scarce and shy, that taey must have been harrassed by tbe natives, who, perhaps, obtain much of their subsistence from them. About the bike behind the beach, a few wild ducka were seen, and some shags used to perch upon the high leafless trees near the shore. We observed in the woods some blackish snakes ; and we killed an uiiknown large lizard, fifteen inches long, and six round, beautifully clouded with black and yellow. The sea affords a much greater plenty, and at least, as great a variety as the land. Among a variety of fish we caught rays, nurses, leather jackets, bream, soles, flound- ers, gurnarde, small spotted mullets, a little fish with a silver band on its side, and ele- phant fishes, which last are the most nume- rous, and, though inferior to many others, •ire very palatable food. The next in nura-1 ber, and .suoerior in gooduess, is a sort none of us recollected to have seen before. It |)artakes of t!ie nature both of a roinid and flat tish, hav-ng the eyes placed very near each other, the forepart ol the body much flattened or depressed, ami the rest rounded. It is of a brownish sandy colour, with rusty spots on the n|)per part, and whitish below. From the quantity of slime it was always covered with, it seems to live after the man- ner of flat fish, at the bottom. On the rocks are plenty of muscles, and other small sheli- 3 i ',1.! ! '■ is '^W-'-iLai : ;i mm •. tr i^t^'ii ' h 1' in VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. fish: also great numbers of sea^stars, small siderably. Their eyes are' of a moderaf* limpets, and large quantities of sponge, one size, and though not very quick or pierrini? «ort of which, that is thrown on the sea-shore, thev give the countenance a frank, cheerful but not very common, has a most delicate and pleasing cast. Their teeth are broad' texture. Upon the beach were found many but not equal, nor well set ; and either from pretty Medusa's-heads ; and the stinking nature, or from dirt, not of so clear a white sea-hare, which, as mentioned by some as is usual among people of a black colour authors, has the property of taking off the Their mouths are rather wide i but this hair by the acrimony of its juice ; but the appearance may be heightened, by wearing Aort we examined, was deficient in this res- their beards long, and clotted with paint pect. The insects, though few, are here in in the same manner as the hair on their considerable variety ; such as grass-hop|)ers, heads. Upon the wtiole, they are well pro- butterflies, and several sorts ofmoths, finely portioned, though the belly is rather pro- variegated. Here are two sorts of «dragon- tuberant. Their favourite attitude is to flies, gad, and camel-flies ; several sorts of stand with o:ie side forward, and one hand spiders ; and some scorpions ; the last are grasping, ac/oss the back, the onposrte arm rare. But the most troublesome, though which, on this occasion, hungs down by the less numerous tribe of insects, are the mos- si Je that projects. What tlie poets tell us of Fawns and Satyrs dwelling in woods and hollow trees, is here realized. Near the shore in the bay we saw some wretched con* structions of sticks, covered with bark which like the wigwams of the Indians* chettoes, and a large black ant, the pain of whose bite is almost intolerable, during the short time it lasts. ^'he inhabitants, with whom we were con- versant, seemed mild and cheerful, with ^ little of that savage appearance, common to seemed to have been only temporary abodes! people in their situation : nor did they dis- Many of their largest trees were eonvprted cover the least reserve, or jealousy, in their into more dufable habitations. The cruniis intercourse with strangers. With respect of these were hollowed out, to the heijfhts to personal activity or genius, they discover- of six or seven feet, by means of fire. That ed little of either : as to the last, they have, they sometimes dwell in them, was evident, to appearance, less than the half-animated froni their having hearths in the middle natives of Terra del Fuego, who have not invention sufficient to make clothing for defending themselves from the rigour of their climate, though furnished with materials. They display, however, some contrivance. in ihe manner of cutting their arms and bodies in lines of different directions, raised above the surface of the skin. Their indi fie- rence for our presents, their general inatten- Fish, fruit, and the natural producfions of tion, and want ofcuriosity, were very remark- f-lie earth, were the only articles of food, able, and testified no aonteness of under- that we saw about their fire-places; but! standing. Their complexion is a dull black, what was still more strange, there was nei- which they sometimes heighten, as we sup- ther canoe nor boat to be seen, tliongh the posed, by smutting their bodies ; for a mark country abounds with such excellent trees. was left behind on any clean substance. One might be apt to think, that these na* made of clay, round which four or five per- sons might sit. These places of shelter are permanent ; for they leave one side of the tree sound, so that it continues growing with great luxuriance. It does not appear that these people are cannibals, or indeed, that they ieeil upon flesh, as no appearance of any such food could be traced among tliein. when they handled it. Their hair is per- fectly woolly, and is clotted with grease and red ochre, like that of the Hottentots. Their noses, th ough not flat, are broad and full, as is the case with most Indians ; and the lower part of the face projects con- 6 fives are a sort of fugitives, who have been driven to subsist here in a state of banish- ment : but that they originate from the same stock with those who inhabit the northern parts of New Holland is highly probable: and though they differ in many respects. AND ROUND THE WORLD. •12a their dissmilarity may be reasonably ac- counted for, from the united considerations of distance of place, length of time, total se- paration, and diversity of climate. These will account for greater differences, both as (0 the persons, and as to the customs of differ- ent people, than reaily exist between our Van l)ieinen*sland natives, and those described by ))iunpier,and in captain Cook's first voyage. This is certain, that the figure of one of those seen in Endeavour river, and represented in a journal of that voyage, (now before us) very mnch resembles our visitors in Adven- ture Bay. That there is not the like resem- blance in their languages, is a circumstance that r»eed not create any difficulty : for thongh the agreement of languages of people living distant from each other, may be iissnnied as a strong argument for their having sprung from one common source, disagreement of language is by no means a proof of the contrary ; and we must have a more intimate acquaintance with the lan- jnages spoken here, and in the more north- ern part of New Holland, before we can be warranted to pronounce that they are totally (hffercnt. Nay, we have good grounds for the contrary opinion ; for we found, that the animal called kangooroo, at Endeavourriver, was known under the same name here ; and we need not observe, that it is scarcely possible to supfmse, that this was not transmitted from one another, but accidentally adoj>ted by two nations, diffe- rini? in language and extraction. Besides, as it seems very improbable, that the inhab- itants of Van Diemen's land shotdd ever have lost the ttse of canoes or sailing vessels, if they had been originally conveyed hither bysea, wemust necessarily admit that they as well as the kangooroo itself, have Ween stragglers by land from the more northern parts of the Country. If there is any weight in this remark of Mr. Anderson's, it will, while it traces the origin or' the people, at the same time, serve to fix another point, (if Cant Cook and Capt. Furneanx have not decided it already) namely, that New Molland is no where totally divided from the sea int !'^ V '. l ' mM i r'i 1 t' i -t i wit vmm 424 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, i continuance on this coast, all hands were employed in wooding, watering, over-haul- fng the ria:ging, and getting every thing in n:adiut the place where we had fixed our little encampment. The facility with which they build their temporary habi- tations, is very remarkable. They have been seen to erect more than twenty of them on a spot of ground, that, not an hour before, was covered with shrubs and plants. They generally briny some part of the materials with them ; the rrst they find upon the premises. Our Ca|)- tain was present when a number of pe.»- people landed, and built one of ttieir vil'^- Tlie cauoes had no suoii«r reached Uhs I .■,.. '■' ' m )■ i if ':■ lli A': i:^^' iHlilw 4'?I5 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, fli I! «horp, tlian the men leaped out, and took possession of a |»iece of firound, by tenrint? up the pl.mts uiid siinibs, ui >hckinu' iipsonie part ut' tl'e framing" of a hut. They then returned lo their canoes, and securtd their weaimns, l>y seltinix tlieni up against a tree, or placing: ttifun in suoh a position, that they could belaid hold of in an instant. While the men were thus employed, the women were not idle. Some were appointed to take care of the canoes ; others to secure the provisions, and the few utensils in their pos- session ; and the rest went to gather dry slicks, (hat a tire might be prepared for dressing their victuals. These huts are suf- ficiently calculated for alfording shelter from tlie rain and wind. The same tribe, or fami- ly, however large, generally associate and build together ; so that we frequently saw a village, as well as their large ti>vviis, divid- ed into ditferent districts, by low pallisadoes, or a similiar method of separation. We received considerable advantage from the natives thu!« coming to take up their resi- dence with us : for every day some of them were employed in catching Hsh, a good share of which we generally procured by exchan- ges. This supply, and what our own nets and lines afforded us, was so ample, that we seldom were in want of fish. Besides which, we had other refreshments in abundance. Celery, scurvy-grass, and portable soup, were boiled with the peas and wheat, for both ships companies, every day, and they had spruce beer for their drink. Such a regimen would soon have removed all seeds of the scurvy from our people, if any of them had contracted it ; but the truth is, on onr arrrival here, we had only two invalids in both ships, on the sick list, and these were on board the Resolution. AVe were occa- sionally visited by other natives, besides tliose who lived close to us. Their articles of tralUc were fish, curiosities, and women ; the two first of which were easily disposed of, but the latter did not come to a good iniirket, car crew having conceived a dislike to them. Capt. Cook observes upon this occa-iion, that he connived at a connection with \v(Mneii, because he could not prevent it ; |)ut that he never encouraged it, because 2 he dreaded tlve consequences. " J know indeed, says the Captam, tliat many men are of opinion, that such an intercourse is one of the greatest securities amongst snva- ges ; and |)erhaps they who, either frosn necessity or choice, are to remain and suttle with them, may ii\u\ it so. But with travel- lers and trancient visitors, such as we wvr^ it is generally otherwise ; and, in our situ- ation, a connection with their women betrays more men than it saves. W^hat else can be reasonably expected, since all their views are selfish, witjjout the least mixture of re- gard or attachment. My own experience at least, which hath been pretty extensive' hath not pointed out to me one instance to the contrary. Among our occasional visitors was a chief called Kahoora, who headed the party that cut off Capt. Fnrneaux's people; and him- self killed Mr. Rowe, the officer who com- manded. He was far from being beloved by his countrymen, some of whom even importuned Capt. Cook to kill hinj, at the same time expressing their disapprobation of him in the severest terms. A striking proof of the divisions that prevail ainon" these people ocxorred to ns ; for the inhabi- tants of eiich viUage, by turns, solicited our Commander to destroy the other. On tlie 15th, \vt; made an excursion, in .search aller grass, and visited a Hij)|)ah, or fortified vil- lage, at the S. W. point of the Tsland ui AJotnara, and the places where our garden had been planted. We found many of tlie plants and roots in a flourishing condition in the spots that had been cultivated by Capt. Furneanx's people, but of tlie seeds sown by Mr. Bailey ni 1773, not the least vestige remained. It is probable they had been ro(»ted out lo make room for bnildint Ions before. Onthel6th, the two ('aptains, accompa- nied by Omiah and several ortioers, set out, in five boats, to collect fodder for the cattle. with whalever the country afforded. But from what Ouiiah was able to learn, Capt. Cook received no satisfaction. It should seem, that in Otal;*- ite there are two dialects spoken, as in almost every other part of the world ; one by the priests, and another by the common people. This was apiiarent here ; fur Tnpia who accompanied Mr. Banks to this place, in Capt. Cook's second voyage round the world, could converse Having proceeded about three leagues up the with the natives fluently, and was in such sound, they landed on the E. side, where esteem with them, that his memory is held they cut a quantity of grass, sufficient to in veneration from one end of the Isl'and to load two launches. On their rettu'n down the other atthis day. Obedee likewise, wlio the sound, they visited Grass Cove, the was of the class of Areoes or gentlemen, and place where Ca|it. Furueaux's people had whoaccompanied Capt.Cook,in his last voy- heen murdered. WInle on this memorable age, from Otaheite to the Hebrides Ts'ewZea- s|utt, curiosity induced them to enquire into the circumstances attending the melancholy fate of our countrymen. Here they met with Capt. Cook's old friend Pedro, who is land, Easter Island, and the Marquisas could converse with the New Zea landers, though Omiah could not, a proof that he was of the inferior class in his own country. While mentioned by him in the history of his second we continued here, he found frequent oppor- voyage. He and another New Zealander tunities to discover his real character, when received them on the beach, armed with the from under the watchful eye of his protector spear and patoo, though not without mani- and friend. He had grog always at his com- fest signs of fear. Their apprehensions, mand, and was sometimes entrusted to give however, were quickly dissipated by a few presents, which brought down to the shore two or three other families. Omiah we are informed was made use of as an interpreter between our people and the natives, his jaiizuage being a dialect of that of New Zealand : but in a journal, belonging to a it out, especially when any extra quantity was to be delivered by the Captain's orders for hard service, or on days of festivity. At those times he was closely watched, and was never known to run into excess ; but when the Captain was abroad for whole days and nights, and he left in charge of liquors, in* gentleman on board the Discovery, thiscir- set no bounds tohisexcess, and would drink, ciiinstance is differently related, and as this, till he wallowed like a swine in his own and the character of Omiah, is contrary to filth. At those times he out-acted the savage that given by the comp.^ny of the Resoluti(m in every kind of sensuality ; and when lie we shall here lay it before our readers, could no longer act the brute, he would often "Omiah, who could scarce make hni self act the drunkard ; storming, roaring, brand- understood, nor indeed could he understand ishing his arms, and by the contortions of the natives so well as many of the common his mouth and face, setting at defiance, after men who had been frequently here before ; the manner of his country, the whole host yet being a favourite with Ciipt Cook, was always preferred when in company, to con- fer with tlie natives, and was desiretl by him, when he met any of them alone, to question Iheui conrernincr the massacre of our people fliat had happened some time atro. and from what cause it took itv rise ; and he hoped to ill ii of his enemies, who were represented by the common sailors, with whom, upon these «>coasions, he was generally surrounded ; and who knew how to practise upon him, as he endeavoured to do upon the poor Zealanders. He was indeed far from bein natured, morose, or vindictive ; but Lt :m'' 'p% :;■>;-' 428 V^OYAnE TOWAHDS Jim NORTH POLE, was !^om(^tiine.s sulky. He wns naturally l)iinU)|e, but had grown proud by habit ; and pride so ill became hiui, that he was always ^lud when he could put it off, and appear among the petty officers with his natural ease. This was the true character «f Omiah, (in the opinion of our journalist,) who nii^ht be said, perhaps, by accident, to have been raised to the liighest pitch of human haiipiness, only to sutier the opposite extreme, by being again reduced to the lowest order of rational beings. Pedro, and the rest who were present of the natives, answered all the questions put by Ouiiah. by Capt. Cook's orders, without reserve, like men who had no concern in the unfortunate transaction at Grass Cove. Their information imported, that while the boat's-crew of the Adventure were at din- ner, some of the natives stole, Of snatched from them, some fish and bread, for which offence they received some blows : a quarrel ensued immediately, and two of the New Zealanders were shot dead, by the only two musquets that were fired, for before a third was discharged the natives rushed furiously upon our people, and, being superior in number, destroyed them all. Pedro, and his couipanions, also pointed out the spot where the quarrel happened, and the place where the boat lay, in which a black servant of Capt. Furneaux had been left to take ■care of it. According to another account, this negro was the occasion of the quarrel ; for one of the natives stealing something out of the boat, the black gave him a violent blow with a stick. His countrymen hear- ing' his cries, at some distance, imagined he was killed, and immediately attacked our people, who before they could reach the boat, or prepare themselves against the unexpected assualt fell a sacrifice to the fury of the exasperated savages. The for- mer of these accounts was corroborated by the testimony of many other natives, who cojjid have no interest in disi^uising the tsuth. The latter account rests upon the authority of the young New Zealander, vvho quitted his country for the sake of going with us, and who, therefore, could not, as we may reasonably suppose, be inclined to 4 deceive us. As they nli agreed, iliat (he aflVay happened while the boat's-crew were at dinner, both the accounts may be true; for it is by no means improbable, tliui while some of the islanders were steuJiuir from the man who had been left to guard the boat, others might take' equal liberties with those who were on shore. It appears, that there was no premeditated pluu oi bloodshed, and that, if these thefts tiad not been rather too hastily resented, all mischiel would have been avoided ; ibr Kahootu's greatest enemies acknowledged, that he had previous no intention of quarrelling. With regard to the boat, some said, that it had been pulled to pieces and burnt; whileotiiers asserted, that it had been carried off by a party of strangers. We have received from a gentleman on board the Discovery some other remarkable particulars, relating to this mysterious affuir,included in the relation of an adventure, u' ;h, though the parties are not of the highest class, oru readers, not- withstanding, may think worth relating. Belonging to the Discovery was a youth, with whom a young Zealander girl, about fourteen years of age, fell desperately jn love, nor was she wholly indifferent to our adventuress. What time he could spare, he generally retired with her, and they spent the day, but oftener the night, in a kind of silent conversation , in which, though words were wanting, their meaning, wa.^ V-^'tVctly understood. Moments fly rapidly on, that are spent in mutual endeavours to please. Slie, on her part, had no wifl but his own, and he, in return, vvas no less attentive to hers. Minds so disposed naturally inciinii to render themselves agreeable. A confor- mity in manners and dress become signi- ficant signs between lovers. ' Thoutjh he appeared amiable in her eyes in the dress of a stranger, yet he wished to render himself more so, by ornamenting his person after the fashion of her country ; accordingly he sub- mitted to be tattowed from head to foot ; nor was she less solicitous to .set off herself to the best advautage. She had fine hair, and hop chief pnde, wasin the dress of her head. The pains she took, and the decorations she used, would have done honour to an Euri*- iier that was at the the men ? I »»t him, hut still morep He tried ev AND ROUND THE WORLD 429 pean beauty, had not one thinj? jflir to rentier it still more plea." been want- iQjT ru rciiuci 11 :«tiii iiiuic pleasing. Gho- nannalie (that was her name) though young, was not so delicate, but that the traits of her country might be traced in her locks. 'i'o remedy this misfortune, and to render it less onensive, she was furnished with conibs, and taught by her lover how to Use tlipiii. 'After being properly prepared, he would by the hour amuse himself with forming her hair into ringlets, which flowed carelessljr round her neck, with a kind of coronet rising from her temples, gave her an air of dignity, that added fresh charms to the brilliancy of her eyes. The dislike arising from colour gradually wore off", and the ardent desire of rendering their senti- ments more and more intelligible to each other, gave rise to a new language, consist- ing of words, looks and gestures, by which pieasureand pain were more forcibly express- ed than by trie most reflned speech. Hav- ing at first acquired* the art of imparting their passions, they very soon improved it to the history of their lives. Love and Jealousy directed her enquires concerning the women in the world from whence he came, wishing atthesame time, that he%vould stay with her, and be a Kakikoo or chief. He made her to understand, that the women in her country were all tatoo, (man killers) and if he stayed with her she would kill bim. She replied no ; she would eh- na- rovv, love him. He said her people would kill him. She replied no, if he did not shoot them. He made her to^ understand, tnat nine or ten of tlie men of this world, had been killed and eaten by her people, fhouffh they did not shoot them« Her nuswer was, that was a great while ago, and the people came from the hills roa, roa, meaning a great way off. This excited his curiosity to know, if any of her relations were among the murderers ; she sighed, and appeared much affected, when he asked her that question. He demanded if she was at the feast when they broiled and eat the men ? She wept, and, looking wishfully at liim, hung down her head. He became still more pressing as she grew more reserved. He tried every winning way that love and 5 curiosity saggested, to learn from her whaf he found she knew, and what she seemed so determined to conceal : but she artfully evaded all his questions. He asked her, why she was so secret ? She pretended not to understand him. He repeated the same question, at the same time closing his eyes and keeping them shut. She continued to weej), but made him no answer. Finding all his persuasions ine^ectunl, he turned from her, seemingly in anger, and threaten- ed to leave her. She caught liiiti round the neck in a violent agitation of mind. He asked her what she nieant, and why she wept? She said, they would kill her if she told. He said, they shoidd not know it. Then he would hnte her, she said. He answered no, but love her more and more, pressing her to his bosom at t!ie same lime; uj[)on which she grew more coui posed, and said she would tell him all she knew. She then mcide him nnderstand, that one Gooboa, a bad man, who had been often at the ship, and had stolen many things, when he came to know that it was preparing to depart, went up into the hill country, to the hippah, and invited the warriors to pome down and kill the strangers. They at first refused, saying, the strangers were stronger than they, and would kill them with their pow- pow, or fire arms. He told them, they need not fear, for he knew where they must come before they departed in order to ^et grass for their goury, or cattle, and that on such occasions they left their pow-pow behind them in the shi(>, or carelessly about the ground, while they were at work. They said, they were no enemies but friends, and they must not kill men with whom they were in friendship. Gooboa said, they were vile enemies ana wicked men, and complained of their chaining him, and beating him, and shewed them the marks and bruises he had received at the ship ; and told them besides, how they miurht silence their pow-pow ; by only throwing water over them, and then they could not hurt them. Gooboa likewise undertook to conduct them in safety to the place where the strangers were to oome, and shewed them where they nii-iht conceal themselves, till he should come a-.id ^ive i' f>it •MIS vM 4.39 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, I liiem n(»tice ; vvliich he did. That when the men were Ihisv about t^ettiri;; grass, uiid not Mp'ireheiidiiiKaiiydangerur harm, llie war- riors ruslied cot upon them, and killed them, and iillteiwards divided their bodies ainony: them. She added, that there were women as We'll as men concerned ; and that the wo- men made the fires, while the warriors cut the dead bodies in pieces. That they did not cat them all al once, but only their liearts and livers ; that the warriors had •the heads, which were esteemed the best, and the rest of the flesh was distributeil aniont,^ the croud. Having by various ques- tions ill the course of several days, extorted tills relation, of which, he said, he had no reason to doubt the truth, he forebore to ask lier, what part her relations and herself bore in this tragedy, as there was reason to believe, they were all equally concerned. He was, however, very solicitous to learn, if any such plot was now in agitation against the people that might be sent upon the same service to Grass Cove, or any other ciMivenient place. Her answer was, no : the warriors were afraid at first, that the ships were come to revenge the death of their friends, and that was the reason why she was forbidden to speak of killing the stranirers, or to own any knowledge of that incident, should she be questioned concerur ing it. She said, she was but a child, not ten years old ; but she rememljered the talk of it, asa gallant action of great at- chievement, and that songs of praise were made upon that occasion. In the course of his conversation with this girl, who seemed to he of the second class, he learned many thiiiirs coiicernins the natural temper of the natives, and their domestic policy. She said, the people of T* Avi-Poenammoo, or the onthern division of the island, were a tierre bloody people, and had a natural liatu'd to the people of Ea-hei-no-mau\ve, and killed tlieni, when found at any Hme ill their country ; but that the people of Ea-hei-no-maii\ve were a good people, aixl friendly to one another, l)nt never snll'ered any of" the j)e'>i)le of T'Avi-PoenaininiiO to setlle ainonit' them, because t!iey were eiieiiiies ; that tlitsetvvo nations, the people 6 of the north part of the sound, ami those of the south, were ever at war, and eat nne another ; but that the people of eiiher country, when they fought, never cat. one another. With respect to their domeslic policy, she said, the fathers had the sole care of the boys as soon as they could wjilk and that the girls were left wholly ut tlinj mother's disposal. She said, it was a crjuie for a mother to correct her son, after l-.e \v;is onre taken under the protection of tin- i;,, ther ; and that it was always resented hy the mother, if the father interfered with the management of the daughters. She sjiid the boys from their infancy, were traiimi to war, and both boys and girls were tain-lit the arts of fishing, weaving their nets. um[ making their hooks and lines ; ihit tlieir canoes came from a far country, and tliev got them in exchange for cloth, wiiich wii, chiefly manufactured by the women : tluit their weapons and working tools descended from father to son, anif that tho.-se who ueic taken in battle supplied the ri.sing genera- tion : that they had no kings among tluiii, but that they had men who converst'd wjili' the dead, who were held in great veneration, and consulted before the people went tn the wars ; that these were the men who addressed strangers that came upon the coast, first in the language of peace, at tlie same time denouncing vengeance against them, if they came with any hostile dtsimi ; that their persons were held sacred, and never killed in the wars, which ever side pre. vailed; that when the warriors of. either nation made prisoners, they were never of the uieaner sort, but of soine chiefs, whom they afterwards killed and eat, but that to the common sort they never gave quarter; that they sometimes tortured an enemy, if they found him lurkingsing y in the wood.s looking upon him as coming upon no good design, but never otherwise ; that they lived chiefly upon fish, which v ere caught in the sound in abundance, during the siun- mer ; but that in the winter they retired to the north, where they sub isted on the frnil.s of the earth, with which the> were supplied for their labour, working in the plantation,*, or assistnjg the builders in fabricating their AND ROFND THE WORLD. 431 ». 1 boats. The intelligence tlnis obtained from down top-gailant-yards, strncU tof^ g^allant- this yonng Zeulander appears to be autlien- inastx, lowered the yards, fjfot in the cables, tic fi(»in many circ(im (loth, wood, and green stones, formed into crease the force ot the wind, Imt alter its iiiHileinents of use, or consisting of raw ma- direction in such a inanuer, tliii' no two blast* tenals ready prepared for fabrication. Their follow each other frojii the -^nme qnarter. oicus appeared to be of a superior class to The gale continuing the >vln(le day, no those who constantly plied in the sound, and Indians came to trsulr. On llie 21st, ii were under proper disciuline ; whereas the tribe or family of about iU) peiso-'.s can»c fishing boats seemed to be the sole property from the npjier part of the sound to visit us, of the occui»iers, no other person claiming whom we had not seen before. T'.eir cliiei any superiority over them. was named roinsUonaeaiiooranur. Jle was Our party belonging to the Resolution about the age of forty-tive, hsivint!: a frnnk, onntinued in Grass Cove till the evening, cheerful conntenaiice ; i»iul the rest of his when having loaded the rest of the boats tribe were, upon the whole, the most hniid- with grass, celery &c. we then embarked some of all the New Zeahin«leis that we toieturn to the ships ; but had scarcely had seen. By this time u[)vvards of twn- lel't the shore, when the wind began to blow thirds of the natives of Queen Charlotte's violently at N. W. so that it was not without Sound had settled near us, numbers of whom great difficulty that we could reach the daily resorted to the ships, and our encanip- ships where some of the boats did not arrive ment on shore; but the latter was lunst till the next morning, and we had but just frequented, during the time when our peo- got aboard, when the gale encreased to a nie were making seal-blubber ; for no Green- perfect storm, attended with heavy rain: landers were ever fonder of train oil, ^han l)ut, in the evening, the wind veering to our friends here seemed to be . rhey relished the east, brought on fair weather. No work even the dregs of the casks, r»iu] sUimmiii^s could go forward on the 17th, but on the of the kettle, and considered the neat stiuk- 18lh our men resumed their different ing oil as a most delicious feast. Having employments, the natives ventured out to got on board a supply of hay and arass, catch fish, and Pedro with his whole family, sufficient for the cattle during our pas- came to reside near us. The proper name of sage to Otaheite ; and having completed tliis chief is Matahouab ; but some of Capt. our wood and water, we struck our tents. Cook's company had given him the appel- and brought every thinn oif from the htion of Pedro in a former voyage. Or* shore. Thursday the 20th, we had anotl>er storm, On the 23d, in the morninc-, the old In- of less duration than the former, bnt much dian, who had harangued tlie Ca|itains more violent ; and we had scarcely men when they aimroached the shore, repaired enough on board to hand the sails. By on board the Discovery, and made a present fen o'clock, A. M. the strong gales drove the to her Captain of a complete stand of their Discovery from her moorings; audit was arms, and some very excellent fish, which owing to providence that, having run foul of were kindly received; and, in return, the Resolution, she did not perish, the surge Capt. Clerke gave him a Iumss patoo patoo, carrying her oflf" instantaneously, with little made exactly in their fashion avul manner, damage to either ship. All hands on board on which were engraven his Majesty's name were thrown into the utiinost confusion. No and ar.Tis, the names of the ship<, tl-.e date of sooner was she clear ihan both ships got their tleoaiture fcoin England, ;.i4ul th« 7 :wm I, , % .t. Cook entertained very high notions of the hon. our as well as the bravery of the New Zea- landers. On Monday the 24th, we weighed anchor, and stood ont of the Cove ; but the wind not being so fair as we cnuld have wished, and knowing the tide of ebb wonid be spent before we could get out of the sound, we cast anchor again a little without theislandof Mo. tuara, to wait for a more favonrable opiwr- tunity of putting into Cook's Strait. While we were getting under sail, the Ciipjaiu gave to Tonuitongeauoorantic two nigs, a boar and a sow ; and to Matahouah two goats, a male an female, after they had promised not to destroy them. Astotiie animals which Capt. Furneanx had left here, we were told they were all dea(l ; but no intelligence could be obtained concern. ing those Capt. Cook had left in West Bay, and in Cannibal Cove, in his former voyi age: however, all the natives we conversed with agreed, that poultry are now to be met with wild in the woods behind Ship Cove; and we were afterwards informed, by tlit' two New Zealand youths, who went away with us that Tiratou, a popular chief, hull in his possession many cocks and hens, besides a sow, W^e had not long been at anchor near Motuara, bel'ore several ca- noes, filled with natives, came towards ns. and we caried on a brisk trade witli thein for en riosities. Fn one of these canoes was Kahoora, whom Omiah pointed out imme- diately to Capt. Cook ; and lie being the leader of the party who had cut off the crew of the Adventure's boat, Omiah solicited our Commander to shoot him. Not satis- fied with this, he addressed himself to that chief, threatening to be his executioner, should he ever presume to visit us again : but this menace had so little influence upon Kahoora, tha't he returned to us the next njorning, accompanied with his whole fami- ly. Onriiah, having obtained Capt. Cook's permi.ssion, introduced him into the cabin, saying, " There is Kahoora, kdl him," but fearing, peihaps, he shouhl be called upon to put his former declaration in execatiiMi, he ins'untly retired- In n «hort time, how- ever, he returned ; and perceiving the chid the hon. few Zea- d anchor, the wind ^e wished, 1 be spent »d, we cast jndof Mo. [)le op]>or- it. While e Capiaiii wo nigs, a louah two they had As to the s: had left dead ; but ;d concern- West Bay, bnner voy- ! conversed w to be met Ship Cove; lied, by tlu' AND ROUND THE WORLD 43S remained unhurt, he remonstrated to the Captain with much earnestness, saying, " Why do you not kill him ? If a man kills another in Eng^land he is hanged ; this man has killed ten, yet you will not kill him.'' These arguments, however plausible, had no weight with our Commander, who desir- ed Omiah to ask the New Zealand Chieft why he had killed Capt. Furneaux's people ? Confounded at this question, Kahoora bung down his head, folded bis arms, and seemed in expectation of immediate death ; but as soon as he was assured of safety, he became cheerful. He appeared, however, still un- willing to answer the question which had been put to him, till after repeated promises, that no violence should be offered him Up- on this, he at last ventured to inform us, that one of the natives having brought a stone hatchet for the purpose of barter^ the person to whom it was offered took it, and refused either to return it, or give any thing in ex- change for the same^ whereupon the owner geized some bread as an equivalent, and tiiis gave rise to the quarrel that ensued. He also said, that he himself during the disturbance had a narrow escape ; for a inosquet was levelled at him,which he found means to avoid by !;ku Iking behind the boat ; but another man, who happened to fitand close to him, was shot dead. As soon aslhe musquet was discharged, he, (Kahoo- ra,) instantly attacked Mr. Kowe, the otticer, coMunander of the party, who defended him- sell' with his hanger, (with which he gave Kahoora a wound in the arm,) till he was dverpoweied by numbers. The remaitider i>l' Kalioora's account ot this unhappy affair, (lidered very little from what we bad before learnt from the rest of liis countrymen. Most of these whom we had conversed with, fxpecttd that Capt. Cook would take ven- (ieance on Kahoora for his concern in the massacre ; and many of them not only wish- ed i', but testified iheir scrprize at the Can- tain's forbearance and moderation. As the chief must have been ^nade acquainted with the sentiments of the natives, it was a matter of astonishment, that he so olten put him- itlt" in our power ; his two last visits, in particular, were made under siitb rircnm- a K .stances, that be could not have flattered himself with a probability uf es( apiijg, had the Captain been inclined to detnin him : and yet, when his tirst fears, on being- q-.es- tioned, had subsided, so iar was lie ironi entertaining unea.sy .sensations, that, on see- ing in the cabin a portrait of a New Z« a- lander, he requested that his own likeness might be taken, and without the .smaliest token of impatience, sat till 31 r. Webber bad finished his portrait. Capt. Cook admir- ed his courage, Tind was pleased with the confidence which he reposed in hjui ; for he placed his whole safety in the unirorin declarations of the Captain ; that lio had always been a friend to tlie natives, and would continue so till they gave him reason to behave otherwise ; that he sliouid tiiink no more of their barbarous treataient ot ou. countrymen^ as that transaction h.-.n] bappenet' long ago ; but that, if they shonid ever vent ire to make a second attei.jpt ot that kind, they might rest assured of feeling the full weight of his resentment. Mr. Burney, whom Capt. Furneatix discatciied with an armed party, in search cf his people who were missing, had, noon discovering the melancholy proofs of tliis catastrophe, fired several vollies among the natives who were still on the spot, and were probably partaking of the horrid banquet of human flesh. It was reasonable to suppose this firing might not be ineU'ectual ; but uf>on inquiry it appeared, that not a single person had been killed, or even wounded, by l!ie shot which Mr. Burney's peo|)!e had dis- charged. We must here observe, that previous lb the ships sailing, the crews ul both were ordered upon deck, as usual, to answer to their names, w In n one, on board the Discov- ery, was missing. This was the lover, (whose episode, having already beguti, we f-lmll now conclude,) wlio pretended sick- ness, in order to facilitate his escnpe fr«MU the shin. With this view, as soon as he hud piiVst (I the surgeon's examination, and the coast w.is clear, he ibesscd hiuiself in the habit of a New Zealamler ; and, being tattowed all over, to say the trnth, the co(>y was nut easily to be di3tinguisheed, a Serjeant's guard of marines to be put on board, and his messmate as a guide to direct them to the place where he was to be found. These orders were instantly carried into execution. It was midnight before the cutter could reach the Ianding-]>lace, and near two in 2 the morning before the marines could find the spot where the lovers used to meet. They surprized him in a profound sleep, when he was dreaming of only kingdoms and diadems ; of living with his Ghowanna- he in royal state; of being the father of a numerous progeny of princes to govern the kingdoms Eakeinommauwe and T' Avi- Poenammoo ; and of being the first founder of a great empire ! but what a sudden tran- sition ! to be waked from the visionary scene of regal grandeur, and to find himself a poor prisoner, to be dragged to punishment for, as he thought, a well laid plan of mo- narchy : and, what was worse, his final separation from his faithful Ghowannahe was a task he had still to undergo. Their parting was tender, and for a British sailor and savage Zealander, was not unaffecting. The scene, however, was short. The ma- rines paid no regard to the copious tears, the cries, and lamentations, of [,the poor deserted girl ; nor did they think it safe to tarry in a place so desolate, where lamen- tations in the night were not unusal to bring numbers together, for the purpose of slaiigli. ter. He was, therefore, hurried to the shore, followed by Ghowannahe, who could hardly be torn from him, when ready to embark. Love, like this, is only to be found in the regions of romance, in those ei\lightene(l countries, where the boasted refinements of sentiment have circumscribed the purity of affection, and narrowed it away to mere conjugal fidelity. He was scarce on board the cutter, when he recollected, that he had left his baggage behind ; all that he had provided for laying the founda- tion of his future grandeur. It was there- fore necessary he should return with the ma- rines to the magazine, where all his stores were depK>sited, and these not a few. JJesides his working im|demenis,he hadapocketcum- pass, of which he had thought on some future occasion to make a proper use lie had also a fowling-piece, which had been conveyed away secretly by Ghowannahe, It would be tedious to recount the nnmerotis articles that our adventurer had provided. Let it suffice, that the marines and hi«i).s£|f were pretty heavily laden in brinijing them I find meet. sleep, ^dums b'anna- er of a rn tlie ;• Avi- ounder n tran- y scene uself a ihnient, of mo- is final innahe, Their h sailor ffecting. he nia- is tears, he poor i it safe ) lamen- to bring f stauglw le shore, hardly embark, in the ghtened uementi< purity away to scarce oUected, kind ; all found;.- ias there- the nia- lis stores Ilesidf^s ckel corn- on some use He ad been ivannalie. lumeroiis [provided, hiinstif ling them AND ROUND THE ^yORLD. 435 {»n board the cutter. It was noon, the next day, before he arrived at the ships, and the captains began to be in some fear for the purly of marines, who were sent to bring liim back. Before he came in sight it had Iteen proposed tr> try him as a deserter ; and theretbre instead of being received in his own ship, he was ordered on board the Kesoliition, wliere he underwent a long t'VHiiiination, and made a full confession of !(ll his views, and of the pains he had taken to brins? them to perfection. He said, the first idea of desertion struck him, when in rtii excursion roinid the bay , in "vhich he attended Capt. Clerke, he was charmed wifli the beauty of the country, and the fertility of the soil ; that seeing the gardens tli:it had been planted on Long Tsland, at Alotiiara, and other places, in so flourishing u condition ; and that there were European sheep and iiogs, and goats, and fowls, sii'licient to stock a large plantation, if collected together from the dinerent places where they had been turned loose, it came into his head, that if he could meet with a U'irl that was to his liking, he could be happy in introducing the arts of European culture into so tine a country, and in laying the foundation of civil government among its inhabitants. This idea improved upon him hourly, and when he happened to meet the girl before mentioned, who had seen him in his tour, and who had followed him to the tents, and had learnt from herself, that love hud brought her there, it inflamed his desire beyond all bounds. And flnding her inclination to meet the wishes of his heart, he no longer hesitated, but became firmly resolved, at all events, to yield to the force of inclination. He had resolved in his mind, he said, the haxanl and the reward ; and had concerted with Ghowan- iiahe the plan for his escape. When Capt. Cook heard jris story, his resentment was onverted iii< > liiii^hfer at the wild extra- va<^'ance of his plan, which he thought truly PMnanlic, an^- ages ; yot his observations made at this time, and the remarks of the ini;enious Mr. Anderson, being the result of accurate examination, n>ay not be considered by our frien extraordinary strength in vegetation is doubtless, grwitly assisted by the agreeable temperature of the climate; for at this time, thoug-h answer- ing to our month of August, the weather was not so warm as to be disagreeable ; nor did it rise the thermometer higher than 66 (\eg. The winter also seems equally mild with respect to cold ; for in the month which corresponds to our December, the mercury was never lower than 48 deg. the trees at the same time retaijiing their verdure, as if in the height of ramujer. It is su-p|>oseS J1!E NORTfl POLE. Lisa fiivowrite with them, would sometimes attract a circl*? about him ; hut they seemed to listen to his speeches, hke persons who neither understood, nor wished to under- stand, what they heard. In general, they are not so well formed, especially about the limbs, as the Europeans, nor do they exceed tliem in stature. Their sitting^ so much on their hams, and being deprived, by the mountainous disposition of the country, of using that kind of exercise which would render the body straight and well-propor- tioned, is probably the occasion of the want of due proportion. Many of them, indeed, are perfectly well formed, and some are very large boned and muscular, but very few among them are very corpulent. Their features are various, some resembling Buropeans, and their colour is of different casts, from a deepish black to an olive or yellowish tinge. In general, however, their faces are round, their lips rather full, and their noses,(though not flat) large towards the point. An aquiline nose was not to be seen among them ; theil* eyes are large, and their teeth are commonly broad, white, and regular. The hair, in general, is black, strong, and straight ; commonly cut short on the hin«!er part, and the rest tied on the crown of the head. Some, indeed, have brown hair, an m execute their bloody purposes, they genej 'v steal oflf again ; but are sometimes pursue*, and attacked by the other party, in their turn. To give quarter, or to take prisoners, makes no part of their military law ; so that the vanquished can only save their lives by flight. This perpetual stato AND ROUND THE WORLD. 441 of \var> and destructive method of conduct- account this was done. They have no ing it. operates so strongly in producing niurais, or other places of public wori^hip : habitual circumspection, that one hardly nor do they ever assemble together with ever tinds a New Zealander off his guard, this view : but they have priests, who alone either by night or by day. Indeed, no other address the gods in |>rayers, for the prospe- nian can have such powerful motives to be rity of their temporal affairs; such as an viijilaut, as the nreservation both of body enterprise against an hostile tribe, a fishing and soul iving the ])atient tlie use of a sort of hot bath, '.vhich they produce by tlie steam of ceitaiii green plants laid over hot stones. T regretted much, that we did not hear of this ship while we were in the sound, as, by means of (hniah. wt might have had full and correct iuf« ritii!.- tion about her from eye-witnesses. For Taweiharooa's account was only ihtv.i what he had been told, and tlicrcTore liable v.) J^SD ROtTND THE WORLD. 449 many mistakes. I liave not the least doubt, however, tiiat l»is testimony may so far be depended upon, as to induce us to beheve, that a ship really had been at Teeiau itte, prior to niy arrival in ihe Endeavour, as It corresponds with what I formerly heard. For in the latter end of 1773, the second time I visited New Zealand, during* my former voyage, when we were rontinuaily fnakiiig inquiries about the Adventure, after our separation, some of the natives informed us of a ship's having been in a port on the coast of Teerawiitte : but, at that time, we thought we must have mis- understood them, and took no notice of the information. We had another piece of intelligence from him, though not contirmed hy our own observations, that there are iinakes and lizards in New Zealand of an enormous size. He described the latter as being eight feet in length, and as big round ns a man's body. He said that they some- times seize and devour men ; that they burrow In the ground ; and that they are killed by making fires at the mouths of the holes. We could not be mistaken as to the animal ; for with his own hand be drew a very good representation of a lizard on a piece of paper , as also of a snake, in order to shew what he meant." In the mornin.>r of Tuesday the 25th, of February, we left the sound. By the mean oftlie re.sults of many astronomical observa- tions, we found the latitude of Ship Cove to be 41 desr. 6 min. S. and the longitude 174 deg. 25 min. 15 sec. E. At ten o'clock, a light breeze springing up at N. W. by W. we njade sail w*hrough Cook's Strait, with the I>iscovery in company. On Tbnrsdjiy the27ih.werlearedCapePalliser, (ind took our ^sails, and pursued our course E. by N. On the 2nd, it shifted to N. W. and afterwards to S. W. between which point and the N. it continued to blow, sometimes very moderate- ly, and at other times a strong gale. With this wind we steered N. E. by E. and E. with all the .sail we could carrv, till Tuesday the 11th, when it veered to N. E. and S. E. at which time we observed at noon in lat. 39 deg. .29 min. long. 196 deg. 4 min. E. on the 15th, being Saturday, it blew a hurri- cane, attended with rain and a high 'sea, which breaking over our bows, cleared the ',!, ' ; ir,|^i«* IM IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 ■SO Ui u ■ 4.0 12.0 m 1 L25 1 U 1 ,.6 ^ 6" ► % M, n / 3> ^^.'>* > Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. USSO (716) •72-4S03 .VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, 'ii4 decks of every thing that was not firmly secured, and split the fore-tcjp-mast stay of the Discovery into a thousand shivers. At nighi we shifted our course and stood N. by E. half E. There were sonie^ on board the Discovery who disapproved of tlie course we had hitherto steered, foreseeing, ttiat by going so fast to the northward, we should fall too suddenly into the trade winds, espe- cially, if we should be met by an easterly wind before we approached the tropic. Among the seamen on board a king's ship, there are always some expert navigators, whose judgment, ripened by experience, is much to be depended upon ; but the mis- fortune is, that these men are never consult- ed, nor do they even dare so much as to whisper their opinion to their superior officer. Like gamesters standing by, they can see the errors of the game, but must not point them out till the game is over. This we find, by the journal before us, was the real casf^ on board the Discovery, some of whose Iieople did not scruple to foretel what would lappen afler we had left the d9th degree of Routhern latitude, while we were yet only in the 196 deg. of "astern longitude. They did not scruple to say that before we altered our latitude to the N. we ought to have stretclied 13 or 14 deg. farther eastward of our intended port ; and in this case when we came to pass the tropic, we £>hould be sure of a fair wind to carry us to it. On Tuesday, the 18th, having continued our ponrse N. N. E. for the last 24 hours, we found ourselves, by observation, in lat. 33 iht;. 8 inin and in loiiyitude 20()tleg. E. that is, more than 12 dejj. to the westward of Otaheite. Here we saw sea weetl in abund- ance, and by a large tree Hoaling by us, we judged that we could not be far from land. The tree appeared to be about thirty feet in girth, and by its freshness seemed to have been no long time in the water. Saturday the 22nd, the heaviest rain began to pour down that the oldest mariner, in eil her of the ships, liad ever experienced. It fell in sheets, and, as the wind increased, Ihe men in haiuiing the sails, were in the utmost 4langer of beiniiwishecl otF the vaids. It continued for six hours incci-sanliy ; how- 4 ever, most seasonably for"onr people in the Resolution, where the number of live stock, as horses, cows, goats, and sheep, had exhausted a large proportion of nnr fresh water, and we were, yet at a great distance from our destined port. Here the wind began to veer to the E. which had been apprehended by many ; who tinding- our longitude not to increase in proportion as our latitude decreased, be^ran to suspect we should not make Otaheite this run. Monday, the 24th, our latitude was deceased to 24 deg. 24 min. and our lonui* tudeonly increased one single degree. Tlie wind wasE. by S. and our course still N. hy E. we made consequently but little way. To add to our vexation, we \yere in an alarming situation, for want of provisiou, and water for the live stock ; insorniicli' that we were obliged to kill part of our sheep and hogs, not having a sufficient quan- tity of water to keep th^m alive. As to the horses, and cows, they were mere skeletons ; having been reduced to the scanty portion offour pounds of hay, and six quarts of water for 24 hours ; and the men were put to the allowance of two quarts of water, for the same space of time. The wind continuing foul, all hope of reaching' Otaheite was laid aside ; and the isles of Amsterdam and Rotterdam, were at this time thought to be our only resource. Hi- therto not a man was ill on board the Discovery, nor was any alteration made in her company's allowance, they not having any more cattle on board, than were neces- sary for the ship's use. Thursday the 27th, we crossed the tropic. The weather ; which for two or three days had been squally, attended with thunder and light- nmg, increased to a storm ; and we now began to be surrounded by our tropical companions. On the 28th, the weather cleared uji, and we were saluted with a find breeze, and attended with numerous shoals of flving fish, bonitos, dolphins, sharks, and whole flocks of tropical sea fowl, which abound near the Islands in the low latitudes, but are seldom seen in the deep Pacitic Ocean. On the 29th, at ten o'clock A. M. as we were standini; to the N. E. the Discovery AND ROUND THE WORLD. 446 Qiade the signal for seeing land, distant {even leagues. We tacked ship and stood for it tin the evening. While day-light remained we saw no signs of inhabitants, but, in the night observed several fires. On Sunday the 30th, at day break we discovered it to be an Island of no great extent, and bore lip on the west-side. We now saw several i»eople wading to the reef, but, obser- ving the siiips leaving them quickly, they remained there. But others, who .soon appeared, followed our course ; and some of tlieiM assembled in small bodies,, making ureat shouts. U jioJi o;ir nearer approach to the shore, we saw many of the natives riin- niii;;' along the beach, aitd, by the assistance of our glasses, could perceive, that they were armed with lon^ spears and clubs, wliicli they brandished in the air with signs uf threatening, or, as some of us su|[)posed, with invitations to land. Most of them were without clothes, except h.'^.viiig a kind of girdle, which was brought n|) between their thighs ; but some of them worcjbout their shoulders pieces of cloth of various colours, white, striped, or checked ; and RJiiiost all of them had about their heads awhile \vrap|)er, in some respects resembling a turban. They were of a tawny complex- ion, well made, robust, and of a middling Mature. A small canoe was now launched from the most distant part of the beach, and a man getting into it, put off, as with a view of reaching the ship ; but his cou- rni^e failing him, he hastily put back. On his return to the beach another man joined him in the canoe, and then both of them paddled towards us. They seemed, how- ever, afraid to approach, till their apprehen- sions were removed by Omiah, who address- ed them ill the language of Otaheite. Thus eiicouiagiid, they came near enough to receive some nails and beads, which, being tied to some wood, were thrown into tiie canoe. 'I'liey, however, put the wood aside without untyiivg the string, which perhaps might have proceeded from super- stition ; lor we were informed by Omiah, that when they observed us otiering presents to them, they requested something tor their K'Uooa. On Omiah's asking thein, whether o they eat human flesh, they rturning to the ships, they all lett ui AND ROUKD THE WORLD. 447 except Mour>ooa,wK found in the woods of T^Tew !^ea1and. The shore on the N. W. pdrt, terminates in a sandy beach, beyond which the land in broken into small chasms, and has a broad border of trees, resembling tall willows. Farther up, on the ascent, the trees were of the deep green above mentioned, which some of us imagined to be the rima, inter- mixed with cocoa-palms, and a few other sorts. Some trees of a higher sort were thinly scattered on the hills, the other parts of which were covered with soii.ewhat like fern, or were bare, and of a reddish colour. 'J'lie Island upon the whole, has a pleasing appearance, and might, by proper cultiva- tion, be made a beautiful spot. The natives up|)earing to be both numerous and well fed, itis highly probable, that such articles of provision as the Island produces are found in great abundanct^. Oui* friend Mourooa informed us, that th^y had no ho-;$ nor dogs, though they had heard of both those animals, but that they had fyfantiins, taro, and bread-fruit. The only lHrd.s we observed, were some terns, noddies, white egg-rbirds, and white herons. The inhabitants of this Island fe«etilb?a those of Otaheite and the Mafqrteitf^s in the beauty of their persons; and their general disf)osition seems also to corresfmnd with that of the first mentioned peofWe ; for they are not only lively and cheerful, but are acquainted with all the lascivforr.5 psticulations practised by tlie Otaiieiteans m their dances. We had likewise reason to suppose, that they have a similar method of living: for though we had not art oppor^ tunity of seeing many of their habitations, we observed one house near the beach which in its mode of construction, differed little from those of Otaheite. It appeared to be seven feet high, an?l thirty in lengtli, with an open end, which represented an ellipsis, or oval, transversely divided. It was pleasantly situated in a ^rove. These people salute strangers byjoining noses, and taking the hand of the person whom they accost, which they rub with some iorce upon their month and nose. It is worthy of* remark, that the inhabitants of the Palaos, New Philippine, or r&ther Caroline 448 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE ^ORTH POLE, islands, tliougli at the distance of near 1500 leaij;uevS from Man^eea, have a similar nietliod of salutation. The language of the natives of Mangeeaisa dialett of that spoken at Otaheite, as will appear by the following list of words, selected by the assistance of Omiah. The agreement between them as to the orthography is very striking ; but their pronunciation in Man- geea, like that of the New Zeahuiders, is father more guttural than that of Ota- heite. A List of words used in Mangeea, and com- pared with others used at Otaheite, taken from Omiifcli by Mr. Anderson. Mangcea. Otaheitr ENGLISH. Kooroo Ooruo Uread-fruit Ewakka £vaa A Canoe. Ereekee Eree A Chief. Puorooliee • . - A Club. Taia, taia Eoute Cloth, or cloth aoutee plant. Eakkaree Area A Cocoa-nut Maheine Maheine A Dau}iftter. Nuoo, moii Friend. £tamagee Tamae« A Fight, or battle. Mata Myty Good. Manna • « w « Great, or pow- erft/l. Ereekee, • • • A Powerful manna chief. Ou Wou J. Ooma — - _ To Kiss. Taata, or Taata A Man, Tangata Aoure Aoure No. Hey hey - . . - A Spear. Euta Euta The Shore Heetaia ina- . . . . The Sun tooa Waheine Waheine A Woman. Oo There. Ehataiee Owytuieeoa What is that f Aee Ai Yes. Having taken our departure from Man- geea, we held on our course northward, till noon of Monday the 3l8t, wbeo the 8 man at the mast-head called out land, which was soon answered by a signal from the Discovery. It lay in the direction of N. E. by N. distant 10 leagues. The next morn- ing, being Tuesday the 1st of April, we were abreast of its north-end, and witliin four leagues of it. It now had the appear- ance of an Island, nearly of the same extent with that which we had left. Another Tsliind, much smaller, was also descried right a-liead. Thor^gh we could soon have reached this, we preferred a larger one, as being most likely to furnish food for our cattle. We therefore made sail for it ; hut there being little wind, and that unfavoura- ble, we were still two leagues to leeward, at eight o'clock the succeeding inornin'^! Soon after three armed boats were dispatched and one from the Discovery, under the com* mand of Lieutenant Gore, in search of a landing place, and good anchoring-groiind. Mean while we plied up under the Island with the ships. As our boats were |niitiii{f off', we saw several canoes coming from the shore, which re|wired first to the Discovery, she being the nearest to it. Not hing affer, three of thfse canites came along-side our ship, I he Resolution. 1'hey are long and narrow, and are supfmrted by out-rig;rer$ ; the head is flat abovr, but prow-like hfjow; and the stern is alxnit fourfeet high. We bestovted on our vis tors sonfe knives, heatls, and other tnties ; and they gave us some cocoa-nuts, in coiisequmre of our liuvin^ asked for them ; but they did not jmrt with tliein by way of exchange, as they seemed to have no idea of I arter or tratlic. One of the natives, after a little persuasion €ame on board ; and two others soon foi.'otv- ed his example. They apireared to he pep fectly at their ease, and free from ail uneitsy apprehensions. After their departure, a man arrived in another canoe, bringing: a bunch of plantains as a present to our Cap- tain, who gave him in return, a piece of red cloth, and an axe. We were afterwards informed by OmiakN that this present had been sent from tht I: igof the Island. Soon after, a double canot, containing twelve of the Islanders, came towards us. On ap- proacJiinfif the ship, they recited some wordf AND ROUND THE WOULD. 449 ;n cor.ccrtj by way of choriiS, one of t!iem first jiiving" tFie word l.tilore each i'e|ielitioii. Having' ^nished this solt^mii cliaunt, they came aloiig-.side, and asked for the chief. As soon as Ca|kt. Cook had made hi.sap2)ear- fince, a pig and .lonie cocoa-nnts were con- veytd into the ship ; and the Captain was also presented v/ith a piece of matting:, by t!je principal person in the canoe, when he and hi:!* companions had got on board. Tiitise new visitants were introdnced into the cabin, and other parts o^ the ship. Tliouiili some objects seemed to surprize tlioiii, nothing could fix their attention. Tiiey were afraid to venture near the cows ttiid'liorses, of whose nature they could form i!0 coiicejitioii. As for the slicep and t?oats, they gave us to understand, that they kne»v them to be birds. It may appear rather in- cmiible, that human ignorance could ever make so ridiculous a mistake, there not being llie smallest resemblance between any wing- ed animal and a sheep or goal. IJut these |)6opIe seemed unacquainted with tiie exist- ence of any other terrestrial animals than liogs, dogs, and birds ; and .seeing our goats and sheep to be very dillerent from the two former, they inferred absurdly, that they inust belong to the latter class, in which they knew there were a great variety of spe- .;ies Tlioi«i;h Capt.Cook bestovve 1 on his iieiv friend what he supposed would be the most acceptable present, .yet he seemed somewhat disappointed. We were after- wards informed , that he eagerly wished to procure a dog, of which kind of animals this Island was destitute, though the natives knew that the race existed in other Islands •if the Pacific Ocean. Capt. CIcrke had received a similar present, with the same vifcw, from another man, who was equally disappointed in his expectations. • The Islanders, whom we had seen in those canoes, were, in general, of the mid- dlint; stature, aud not unlike tiie Man^«>eans. Thetr hair either flowed loosely over their shoulders, or was tied on the crown of the head ; and though in some it was frizzled, yet that, as well as the straight sort, was long. Some of the young men were handsome. Like the inhabitants of Mangeea, they 3 M wore girdles of glazed cloth, or fine mat ling, the ends of which were brought Isetweeu their thighs. Their ears were bored, and they Vtore about their neck.-, jiy way of ornament, a sort of broad grass, stained with red, and strung with berries of tise night-shade. IVLiny of theni were curiou^Jy marked or tatooftd from the middle down- wards, partic'.darly upon their legs ; whicli made them appear as if they wore boots. Their beards were loiig ; and they had a kind of sandals on their iett. 'Iliey were frank and cheerful in thoir deportmen*. very friendly, and good-nafnred. Lieuteji- ant Gore returned from his excursios,, and informed Capt. Cook, that he had exannii- sd the west-side of the Island, witiiout being able to find a place where a ship could ride in safety, or a boat could land, the shore being bounded by a steep coral rock, against which a continual surf broke with extraordinary violence. But as the inhabitaots seemed extremely friendly, and as desirous of our landing as we ourselves were, Mr. Gore was of opinion, that they might be prevailed upon to bring oft' to the boats beyond the surf, such articles as we were most in need of. As we had little or no wind, the delay of a day or two was of no great consequence, and therefore it was resolved to try the exjieriment the next morning : soon after day break .some canoe.9 came towards the shij»s, one of which direct- ed its course to tiie llesolution. There were in it some cocoa-nuts, plantains, aixJ a hog, for which the natives demanded from us a dog, refusing every other thing we otiered by way of exchange. Though one of our gentlemen on board had a dug and bitch, which were great nuisances in the ship, and which might have served to propairate a race of so useful an animal in this Island, yet he could not be prevailed upon to part with them. However, to gratify these people, Omiah gave them a favour- ite dog he had brought with hitn frum England, with which acquisition they were highly pleased. I'hiirHday the 3rd, of April, at ten o'clock A. M. Lieutenant Gore was dispatched with three boats, to make trial of the experimenl •M 450 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. o'clock before we could work up to it. We then perceived our three boats just without the surf, and an amazing number of the Islanders on the shore, abreast of them. Co!icluding from this, that Lieutenant ilfered several trifling things which were in lis pocket ; and on his coniplaiiiir.. ot' this treatment to the chief, he justitied tlieir behaviour. From these circumstances Mr. Anderson began to apprehend, that they designed to detain our party among them. In this situation he asked for something to eat ; u,)on which they brought him some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, .and a sort of sour fmdding ; and when he complained of the leat, occasioned by the multitude of |)eople, the chief himself condescended to tan him. Mr. Burney going to the place where Mr. Anderson was, the latter informed him of his suspicions ; and to try whether they were well founded or not, they both itttempted lo were of a deep black, and their countenances get to the beach ; upon which they were soon expressed a great degree of modesty and complacency. Before these beauteous fe- males had nnished their dunce, a noise was heard as if some horses hud been galloping towards our gentlemen ; and on turning tlitir eyes aside, they saw the people arm- ed with clubs, who had been desired to entertain them, as they supposed, with an exhibition of their manner ol" fighting ; which they did, one party pursuing another, who ran away. At this time Lieutenant Burney and Mr stopped by some of the natives, who said they must return to the place which they had left. On their coming u|> they found Omiah under the same apprehensions ; but he had, as he imagined, an additional motive of terror ; for, having observed, that they had dug a hole in the ground for an oven, which they were now heating, he could a.ssign no other reason for it, than that they intended to roast and devour our people ; he went even so far as to ask them, whe- ther that was their intention ; at which Anderson began to look about for Mr. Gore they were much surprized, asking, in and Omiah, whom they at length perceived return, whether that custom prevailed coating up, liavinj;: been as much incommod- among us. ed by the crowds of people as they them- Thus were Mr. Anderson and the others selves had been, and introduced in the same detaind the greatest part of the day, being manner to the tliree chiefs; the names of sometimes separated, and sometimes toge- wiiom were Otteroo, Taroa, and Fatow weera. ther ; but continually in a crowds w iio duired h 1 I f i I t'l '1,1 ,; 111' u m 119 4oi VOYACii: TOWAllDS THE NOUTri POLK. them frequently to nucovei: i>ai1 of tlieir skiiii tiie si^lit of \viii<.'li si nick tiio Is- landers will) udiniralioii. 'I'iiey at the same time, riMed the |»fMkets of our gentle- incD i and one of ihuiit siiatoherovisions that had been dressed, to be carried to the ships ; soon after which our gentlemen found a canoe prepared to put off to their boats, which the natives did with great caution ; but as they were pushing the canoe into the surf, one of them suatcheu AND ROUND THE WORLD. 459 A bag out of her, which contained a packet pistol helonjfinf? to Mr. Anderson, who cull- ing out to the thief with inar1;s of the hi|2:hest displeasure, he swnin back to the canoe ^ith the bapf. The Islanders then put them on board the boats, with the cocoa-nuts, plantains, and other provisions ; and they rmniediutely rowed back to the ships. The restrained situation of these gentle- men gave them very little opportunity of observing the country ; for they were seldom a hundred yards from the place were they bad been introduced to the chiefs, and, consequently, were confined to a few sur- rounding objects. The first thing that attracted their notice was the number of peoi)le, which must have been at leust two thousand. Except a few, those who had come on board the ships, were all of an interior cUss; for a great nusnber of those tliat our gentlemen met with on shore, had a sn|)erior dignity of demeanour, and their com|»lexion was much whiter. In general, they had their hair, which is lonur and black, tied on the crown of the head Many of the young men were perfect models in sha|>e, and of a delicate complexion. The old men were, many of them, corpulent ; and they, as well as the young, had a remarkable smoothness of skin. Their general dress consisted ofa piece of cloth wrapped about the waist, but some had pieces of mats, most curiously variegated with black and white, formed into a kind of jacket without sleeves ; while others wore conical caps made of the core ofa cocoa- nut, interwoven with beads. In their ears, wliicij were pierced, they bung pieces of the membraneous part of some plant, or stuck there some odoriferous flower. The chiefs, anil other persons of rank, had two little balls, with a common base, made of bone ; whicli they hung round their necks with small cords. Red feathers are considered in this island as a particular mark of dis- tinction ; for none but the chiefs, and the young women who danced^ assumed them. Some of the men were punctured all over their sides and backs, and some of the wo- men had the same ornament (if it deserves Uial name) on their legs. The elderix women had their hair cropped short, and many of them were cut all over the ibr« part of (lie body in oblique lines. The wife ()f a chief appeared with her child* laid in a niece of red cloth, which had been presented to her husband: she suckled the in- fant much after the manner of our women. Another chief introduced his daughter, who was young, beautiful, and modest. No personal del'orinities were observed in either .sex, except a few individuals, who had scars of broad ulcers reuiaining on the face and other parts. Many of the natives were armed with spears and clubs, the latter of which were generally about six leot long, nmde of a hard black wood neatly polished. The spears were formed of the sant^ wood, simply pointed, and were in general twelve feet long ; but some were so short as to seem intended for darts. They preserved their canoes from the sun under the shade of various trees. Mr. Anderson saw eight or ten of them all double ones; that is, two single ones lashed together by rafters laid across. They were about four feet deep, and in length about twenty feet, and the sides were rounded with a plank raised on them. Two of these canoes were curiously stained all over with black, in nund)erless small figures, as triangl.s, squares, &c. and were far superior to any thing of the kind Mr. Anderson had ever seen at any otlier Island in the South ISea. The paddles were almost elliptical, and about four feet long. Most of the trees observed by Mr. Anderson were cocoa-palms, some species of hibiscus; a sort of euphorbia ; and many of the same kind he had seen at Mangeea! The latter are tall and slender resembling a cypress ; and are called by the natives etoa. This gentlemam saw also a spcvies of convolvulus, and some treacle-mustard ; besides whicii there are doubtless other plants and fruit- trees, which he had not an opportunity »)f seeing. The soil, towards the sea, is nothing, more than a bank of coral, generally steep and rugged, which, though it has probably been for many centuries exposed to the weather, has suffered no further change than becoming black on its surface. The reefer rock, with which the shore is lined. Is ! f ' Xr if. I'' 'si 451 VOYAGE TOWAUDS THE NORTH POLE. runs to ililKmit luefMltlis into the sea, were it rcseiuMi-s si lii^fh steep wall : it I' rtf a ixoMuisJi colour, and nearly even with the siir/ace ol" the water ; and thongli its texture is rather porous it is capable of withstandini,^ the washing of the surf, which constantly l)re»ks u|)on it. Tlioug:h this Inland iiad never before been visited by Europeans, there were other stranffers now residing in it ; and it was entirely owing to Onriah's accompanying Mr. Gore, that this remarkable circumstance came to our knowledge. He had scarcely landed on the beach, when he found, among the crowd, three of his own countrymen, natives of the S(»ciety Isles. At the dis- tance of abotit two iiundred leagues from those Islands, ail immense ocean interven- ing, with such miseraJile sea-boats as the inhabitants make use of, such a meeting, at such a place, so accidentally visited by us, may be considered as one of those extraor- dinary and unexpected situations, which strike a curious observer with wonder and amaztment. The mutual surprise and pleasure with vyhich Oniiali and his country- men engaged in conversation, may easily be imagined. All were equally impatient ; they to hear Omiah's adventures, and Omiah to know their's. Their story, as related by themselves, is a very affecting one. They .said, that about twenty persons, male and female, had embarked inacanoeat Otaheite, with an intention of crossing over to Ulietea ; but they were prevented by contrary winds from reaching the latter, or returning to the former Island. A dreadful tempest drove them into the main ocean, and the sea, continuing to run mountains high, washed overboard some of the women and children, who perished before they experi- enced any further distress : that after tliree days, when the storm abated, those who re:iiained found themselves in an unknown ocean, with little more provisions than were necessary to serve them a very short time : that, having no pilot to direct their course, they ooiitinued to go before the wind day after day : and, I heir stock of provisions beiiitf r^xhausi -d, they suffered inconceivable hardships : that, their number gradually diminislu'd, worn out by famine and fatigue: that those who survived h:id nothinir hut sea-weed which they found Hoatiiig ui the sea, and the water which they saved when it rained, to keep them alive : that, ten days having elapsed, rnd no land in si^lif despair took place of hope, and sevend' unable to support the pangs of hunger* jumped overboard in their phrenzy, and perished by an ensier death ; and the groiuii of the dying, and the terrible agonies with which some were affected before death came to their relief, exceeded all description. In this melancholy situation they had existed for thirteen days, and how much longer they could have no recollection, for they were taken up insensible of pain ; and hardly to be distinguished from the emaciated bodiesof the dead, among whom they were found, seemingly without life or motion, till by the friendly care 6{ their deliverers they were restored. When they were recovered, they said, it was like waking from adream : tney knew not where, they were nor how they came upon land : l3ut hein^ told they were taken up at sea, and in wlinl condition, as theirsenses gradually returned, they by degrees recollected all the circum- stances already related : they added, that ever since they were brought to life, they had remained with their deliverers, and were now quite reconciled to their condition^ and happy in the situation in which the Etooa, or good spirit, had placed them, Four men had survived, one of whom had since died ; and the names of the three, now living, areTavee, Otir;:eroa, and Orouoate; the former was born at Hoaheine, the second at Ulietea, and the latter at Otaheite. Omiah, after hearing their relation, with which he was apparently much affected told them, that they might now take the opportunity of returning home with him ; that he would intercede for them, and that he was sure, if they chose it, the chiefs uj the expedition would grant his request. They thanked Omiah for his kindness ; nor had they any reason to suppose, that such an offer would ever be made them ai>iiin ; but they were now determined to end llinr days with the people who had restored 1 ,• ' Jl'l AND ROUND THE WORLD. 45ft \' tlu'in lo r.coml life; and ns their dearest from the shipby tlie nssjstnnceof our i^iitsses, p latioiis ami friends were of the number of a reddish oast on the rising" ^noiinds, Ther« those who perished, the return to their the Ishinders build their houses, for we native country wouhl only renew their c.uld percieve several ot' them which were grift, and instead of affording them pleasure, lotijur and spacious. Its pro(hice is nearly would increase their nielauchoiy. Th» the same with that of Munifeeu, the Island application of this narrative is obvious. It we last quittey Omiah, and equally so by our two containing twenty-four the other six persons. New Zealanders who were on board, men, women, and children, were driven from Though the landing of our gentlem^en was an Island, they called Farroilep, northward, the means of enriching the history *of our to the Lsle of Guam, one of the Ladrones, voyage with the foregoing particulars,yet the or Mariannes: but these had not sailed so principal object in view was partly unat- farastheir countrymen, who reached Samal, tained ; for we procured .scarcely any thing asahove, and they had been at .sea only worth mentionn^g from the Inland. Iiuleea twenty days. There seems to be no reason it appears from the circumstances already to doubt the authenticity of these two mentioned, that Wateeoo can be of little relations. The information contained in use to any ship wanting refreshment, unless thelettersof the Jesuits, about these Islands in the case of the most absolute necessity, now known under the name of the Caro- The natives, Lnovving now the value of lines, and discovered to the Spaniards by some of our commodities, might be induced the arrival of the canoes at Samal and Guam, to bring off fruits and hogs to a ship stand- lias been adopted by all our later writers. ingof or on, or to boats lying off the reef. The natives of this Island call it Wateeoo. as our's did. It is doubtAd, however, if any It is situated in the lat, of '20 deg. 1 min. S. fresh water could be procured. For, though and in the long, of 201 deg. 45 min. E. and some was brought in cocoa-nut shells to the is about six leagues in circumference. It gentlemen, they were told, that it was at a is a beautiful spot, with a surface covered considerable distance ; and, probably, it is wiih verdure, and composed of hills and only to be met with iii some stagnant pnol, plains. The soil, in some parts is light and as no runuins stream was any were to be sandy, but furth(:r up the country, we saw seen, 7 M VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. Cabins and light airs, having alternately prevailed durins the night ci' the 3rd of April, before day-break an easterly swell had carried the Resolution and Discovery some distance from Wateeoo, but having failed of procuring, at that place, the sup- plies we wanted, we left it without regret, and steered for the Island that had been discovered by us three days before. Having a gentle breeze at E. we got np with it by ten o'clock, A. M. on Friday, the 4th, when Capt. Cook immediately dispatched Mr. Gore with two boats, to see if he could land, and get subsistance for our cattle. Though a reef surrounded the land here, as at Wateeoo, and a considerable surf broke against the rocks, our boats no sooner reached the west-side of the Island, but they ventured in, and Mr. Gore and his party ar- rived safe on shore. Capt. Cook seeing from the ship they had so far succeeded sent otf a small boat to know if farther assistance was required. She waited to take in a lading of the produce of the Island, and, therefore, did nut rt'turn till three o' clock in the after- noon. Being cleared, she was sent again for another cargo; at the same time the .jolly boat was also dispatched upon the same business, with orders for Mr. Gore to return with the boats before night, which or- ders were punctually obeyed. The supply obtained here was about two hundred cocoa- nuts for our companies, and for our cattle a quantity of grass, with sofne leaves of the pan- danus. This latter being of a soft, spongy nature, cattle eat even the branches when cut into small pieces, which are very juicy. This Island lies nearly four leagues from Wateeoo, the inhabitants of which call it Otakootaia. It is in the latitude of lOdeg. 15 min. south, and the long, of 201 deg. 37 min. E. and is supposed not to exceed three miles in circuit. It is entirely destitute of water ; and cocoa- p, dins were the only common trees found here, of which there were several clusters. \Vt. saw numbers of the wharra, as it is call- ed at Otaheite, or the pandanus of the East- Indies. We found likewise the calloohiltum, snriana, with a few other shrubs ; also a sort of bindweed, tieacle-mustard, a sneciesof the spurge, and the moriiida citrii'olia, the fruit of which last is sometimes eaten by the na* tives of Otaheite. Omiah, who landed with the parly, dressed some of it for their dinner, but they thought tne mess a very indilierent one. A beautiful cuckoo, ol a chesnut Ijrown, variegated with black, was the only bird seen among the trees ; but, u*)ou (lie shore were a small sort of curlew, blue anil white herons, some egg birds, and great nuiu. bers of noddies. One of the conipiiiiy caught a lizard running up a tree : tlioii<;ii small, it had a most forbidding as|)ert. Many of another sort were also seen. Inri- nite numbers of a kind of moth, elegantly speckled with black, white, and red, fre- queuted the bushes towards the sea. Some other sorts of moths, pretty butterflies, ami a few insects of a difl^erent kind were observed. At this time no fixed inhabitants were seen upon this Island ; but we discovered a few empty huts, which convinced us of its being, at least, inhabited occasionally. Moiin. ments, consisting of .several large stones, were erected under the shade of some trees: we saw also some smaller ones, with whicli several places were inclosed, where we sn]/- posed their dea^ blew, and venturing oi the Island, ! diately cam( men in eacl about a sto stopped, an prevailed on they could selves on !. behaviour d trust, or to, t to steal som boat, and st to prevent t containing stem of that restoie it, tho us to purcha 'Vere about o liaved equa with a sort o they openly things, and a one of our p had a knowji changed som they were e: Jhem goore. AND ROUND THE WORLD. 451 any occasion for washing their clothes, the materials of which they are made, bein^. of a paper kind, will not bear washiiiu:. Saltwater therefore answers tlieii purpose with very little fresh, and adds a relish to their fish ; in which they dip almost every mouthful they eat. This in a great measure accounts for their subsisting: without water. Having hoisted in the boats, we made sail again to the northward, resolving to try our fortune at Harvey's Island, discovered during Capt. Cook's former voyage, in 1773, and named from Mr. Harvey, the first mate of the Endeavour. Sundav, the 6th, at day break, we came in sight of it, at the distance of about three leagues. About eight o'clock >ve observed several canoes coming from the shore towards the ships. We were rather surprized at this circumstance, as no traces or signs of inhabitants were seen when the Island was first discovered : this indeed, might be owing to a brisk wind that then blew, and prevented their canoes from venturing out. As we advanced nearer to the Island, six or seven double canoes imme- diately came near us with from six to three men in each of them. At the distance of about a store's-throw from the ship they stopped, and it was with difficulty Omian prevailed on them to come along-side ; but they could not be induced to trust them- selves on board. Indeed, their disorderly behaviour did not indicate a disposition to trust, or to, treat us well. They attempted to steal some oars out of the Discovery's boat, and struck a man for endeavouring to prevent them. They also cut away a net containing meat, which hung over the stern of that ship, and at first would not restore it, though they afterwards permitted us to purchase it from them. Those who were al>out our ship, the Resolution, be- haved equally disorderly and daring ; for with a sort of hook, made of a lon^ stick, they openly endeavoured to rob us ot several things, and actually got a frock belonsring to one of our people. It appeared that they had a knowledge of bartering, for they ex- changed some fish for smalj nails, of which they were extravagantly fond, and called ihem goore. Pieces of paper, or any other > 3 N trifling article that was tlirowm to them, they caught with the {greatest avidity ; and if what was thrown fell into the sea, they immediately plunged in to swim after it. Though the distance between Harvey's Island and Wateeoo is not very great, th« inhabitants differ from each other, both in person and disp«>sition. The colour of the natives of Harvey's Island is of a deeper cast, and some of them have a fierce savage aspect, like the natives of New Zealand. Their hair is long and black, either hanging loose about their shoulders, or tied in a bunch on the top of the head. Some few, indeed, had it cropped short, and in two or three of them, it was of a red or brownish cast. Their clothing is a narrow piece of mat, bound several times round the lower part of the body, and passing between the thighs. We saw a fine cap of red feathers in one of the canoes, and some of the natives were ornamented with the shell of a pearl- oyster, polished, and hung about the neck. Ihe mode of ornament, so prevalent amonsf the natives of this ocean, of puncturing, or tatooing their bodies, not one of them had adopted ; but, though singular in this res- pect, their being of the same common race IS not to be doubted. Their language more resembles the dialect of Otaheite, than, that of Mangeea or Wateeoo. Like the natives of those Islands, they enquired from whence we came, whither bound, the ship's name, that of our Captain, and the number of men on board. Such questions as we proposed to them, in our torn, they very readily an- swered. They informeil us, among olher narticulars, that they had before seen two large ships, but had not spoken to them as they passed. These were, doubtless, the Resolution and Adventure. They acquaint- ed us, that the name of Jieir Island was Terouggemou Atooa ; and that they were subject to Teerevarooeah, king of Wateeoo. Their food, they said, consisted of cocoa-nuts, fish, and turtle ; being destitute of dogs and hogs, and the Island not producing bread- fruit or plantains. Their canoes (near thirty of which appeared at one time in si^iht) are tolerably large, and well built, and bear some resemblance to those of Wateeoo. wmmm 458 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. About one o'clock, we drew near the N. W. part oi' the Island ; this bein^ tlie only place where we could expect to find a good anchorag-e. Capt. Cook immediately dis- patched lieutenant King', with two armed boats, to sound, and reconnoitre the coast. The boats were no sooner hoisted out, than our new visitors suspended their traffic, pushing" for shore as fast as possible, and came no more near us. The boats returned at three o'clock, and 3Jr. King informed the Captain, that he could find no anchor- age for (lie ships ; ami that the boats could advance no farther than the outer edge of the reef, which was almost a quarter of a miie from the shore. That a number of the natives came upon the reef, armed with clubs and long- pikes, meaning", as he sup- posed, to oppose his landing ; though, at the same time, they threw cocoa-nuts to our people, and requested them to land : yet, notwithstanding this seemingly friendly treatment, the women were very active in bringing down a fresh supply of darts and spears. This report having l)een taken into consideration, it was concluded, that, as we fcould not bring the ships to an anchor, an attempt to procure grass here would be at- tended with delay and danger. Being thus disappointed in all the Islands after our leaving New Zealand, and having from a variety of circumstances, been unavoidably retarded in our progress, it was in vain to think of doing any thing this year in the high latitudes of the northern hemisphere, ^Vom which we were so far distant, though 11 >yas now the seasos) for our o[)erations there. Thus situated, it was necesrci'y to pursue such measures as appeared best calculated to preserve our cattle, and save the stores and provisions of the ships : the better to enable us to prosecute our northern discoveries, which coidd not commence till a year later than was intended. If we could fortunately have procured a supp'7 of water and grass, at any of the Islanh we had lately visited, we intended to hrve stood back to the S. till we had got a westerly wind. But without such a supply, the certain consequence of doing this, would have been the loss of the cattle, before it 2 was possible for ns to reach Otahti(e, mtlu out gaining a single point of advanljige rel specting the grand object of our voyjige. Tlie Captain, therefore, determined to l;ear awjiy for the Friendly Isles, where he knew he could be well supplied with every thiu^' he wanted ; and it being necessary to run night and day, he ordered Capt. Clerke to keep with the Discovery right a-head of us because that shi^) could best claw olf the land, which we might possibly fall in with in our passage. Bearing away, therefore, we steered \V. by S. with a fine breeze. It was proposed to proceed first to Middleburgh, or Eooa thinking we might have provision enou"li for the cattle, to last till we should arrive at that Island. But the next day, about noon, those faint breezes that had so long retarded us, again returned; and we found it necessary to get into the latitude of Pal. inerston's and Savage Islands, which Cant Cook discovered in 1774; that, in case of necessity, recourse might be had to them. The weather continued variable, and liiouijli plenty of rain fell every day, yet it was found adviseable to obtain water by- distillation, to be usid for every purpose for which it was fit. The still was kept at work a whole day ; during which time we procured about fifteen gallons of fresh water. It was apt to discolour the meat in w.hich it was boiled, and to tincture every thing with a disaj?reea' ble blackness ; but our cvews preferred it lo rain-water, on account of the tarry taste communicated by the latter. Li^ht breezes continued till Thursday, the lOth, at which time the wind blew some hours fresh from the N. and N. W. In the afternoon we had some heavy rain, attended with iliinuler snualls. We collected as much rain-water as filled five of our puncheons. When these squalls had blown over, the wind was very unsettled, till the next day at noon, when it was fixed at N. N. W. and blew a fresh breeze. Sunday, the 13th, at day-break, we came in sight of Palmerston's Island, bearing W. by S. at the distance of about five leagues; but did nojt get up with it till the 14th, at eight o'clock, A. M. We now dispatched three boats, and one from the AND ROUND THE WORLD. 459 piscovcry, with a propsr officer in each, to search for a convenient landing place ; ue beinjr, at this time, nnder an absohite neces- tiity *»r procnrint? here some provender for our cattle, or we ninst certainly have lost theai. VVhat is called here Palmerston's Island, consists of a gronp of small islots, about nine or ten in iinmher, connected together by a reef of coral rocks, and lying in a circular direction. The boats first examined the nr.ost south-easterly islot ; and not sncceding there, ran down to the second, where they immediately landed. We now bore down with the ships, till we were abreast of the place, where we kept stiuidinff oft'and on, there beinj? no bottom to Ik? found to anchor upon. This, however, was of no material consequence, as there were no human beings upon the Island, exce|>t the party who had landed from our boats. One ofthese returned at one o'clock, laden with scurvy-grass, and yonng cocoa- trees, which was, at this time, a most excel- lent repast for our ani'.rials on board. A message was brought from Mr. Gore, who commanded the party on this expedition, int'orniing us, that the Island aboundetl with the produce of which he had sent us a sample, and also with the wharra-trte and cocoa-nuts ; in consequeiioe of which the Captain resolved to procure a sufficient supply of these useful articles, before we quitted our station, and accordint»ly he went ashore in a small b )at, accompanied by the Captain -if the Discovery ; where tliey foinid, to their satisfaction, every one hanl iit work. The landina: place of this Islot isa small creek, fonned by the reef, of rather more lliiin a boats lens^th in every direction, and covered from ♦be Vorce of the sea, by rocks piojerting on each side. The islot itself is M'licelya mile in circuit; and not above three feet higher than the level of the sea. It ancears to consist ofa coral sand, with a small mixture of blackish mould, produced from rotten vegetables : yet, this poor soil is oovereil with trees and bushes of the same kind as those we had seen at Otakootaia or VVenooa- ette, though not in .so great a variety. We perceive^ a g»"eat number of 3 ir.nn-of-war-bird^, tropic-hiril.-^, and two sorts of l)(iol)ies, which were now luyinu' their eg',>s, and soexcecdini^iy lame ar; to permit ns to take tlicMM y eirdeavouring from the islot to the leeward, to gel some cocoa-nuts for our people : to this end we kept standing ofT and on all night ; and about nine o'clock in the morn- ing, we went to the west side of the islot, and landed from onr boats, with little 'difficulty. The people immediately were employed in gathering cocoa-nuts, which "We found in the greatest plenty ; but it was a tedious operation to convey them to our boats, being obliged to carry them lialf a mile over the reef, up to the middle in water. Omiah, who accompanied us, pre- «ent]y caught with u scoop-net, as many fish as supplied the party on shore with a dinner, besides sending a quantity to each ship. Men-of-war and tropic birds were found in abundance, so that we fared most sumptuously. In these trips to the uninha- bited Islands, Omiah was of the greatest service to us. He caught the fish, and dressed them, as well as the birt^ we kill- ed, after the fashion of his country, with a dexterity and cheerfulness, that did him honour. Before night, the boats made two trips, and were each time heavy laden, with the last, the Captain returned on board, leaving our third lieutenant Mr. William- ion, to prepare another lading for the boats against the next morning. Accordingly libout seven o'clock, they were dispatched, and returned at noon. No delay was nade n sending them back for another carsro, with orders for all hands to be on board by siuirse-t. Th«se orders being punctually obeved, we hoisted in our boats, and sailed to the westward, with a light breeze from the north. This last islot, «^ hich we now left, is somewhat larger than the other, and almost covered with cocoa-palms. The other productions were the same as at the first islot. On the beach wc found two pieces of board, one of which was rudely carved, and an elliptical paddle. These were, perhaps, a part of the same canoe, the remains of which we had seen on the other beach, the two islots being within halfa mile of each other. There were not so many crabs here as at the last place, but we found some scorpions and insects, and a much greater number offish upon the reefs. Among the rest were some beautiful large spotted eels, which would raise themselves out of the water, and endeavour to bite their pursuers. There are also snappers, parrot- fish, and a brown spotted rock-nsh, not larger than a small haddock, so tame, that it would remain fixed, and gaze at us. If we had been really in want, a sufficient supply might easily have been had, for thousands of the clams stuck upon the reef^ many of which weighed two or three pounds. There were also some other sorts of shell-fish ; and when the tide flowed several sharks came with it, some of which were killed by our people ; but their presence rendered it, nt that time, unsafe to walk in the water. Mr. Williamson and his party, who were left on shore, were much pestered in the night with moschettos. Some of them shot two curlews, and some plovers on the shore: on^ or two cuckoos, like those at Wenooa- ette, were also seen. These islots, compre- hended under the name of Palmerston's Island, may be said to be the summits of a reef of coral rock, covered only with a thin coat of sand ; though cloathed with trees and plants, like the low grounds of Ihe high Islands in this spacious ocean. They are situated in 18 deg. 11 min. S. lat. and 196 deg. E. long, frcm Greenwich. We now steered W. in order to make Annamooka, or, as it is called b^ the Dutch, Rotterdam, who first discovered it. We had variable wincis with squalls, some thunder, and much rain. The showers, being very AND ROUND THE WORLD. »01 copious, we saved a considerable quantity of bartered with us for nails. After tliese water; and as we could procured greater canoes had left us, we were visited by ano supply in one hour, by the rain, than by ther, but night approaching, she did not (listilhition in a month, we laid the still continue long with us. The nearest Island aside, as being attended with more trouble to us was Koniango, five miles distant ; to than advantage. The heat, which had con- which, at four o'clock the next morning, tinued in the extreme for about a month, lieutenant King was dispatched vvith two became much more disagreeable in this boats, in order to procure refreshments. close rainy weather, and we apprehended At five, signal was made to weigh, to it would soon become noxious. It is re- proceed to Annamooka. When day-light niarkable, that there was not then a single appeared, we were visited by six or seven person sick on board either of the ships, canoes, bringing with them two pigs, some On Tuesday the 22n(', we had clear weather, fowls, several large wood-pigeons, small but a great swell from the S. a sure presage rails, and some violet coloured coots, besidec? of an approaching storm ; which soon came fruits, and roots of various kinds, which thef on, and increased to such an alarming height exchanged with us for nails, hatchets, beads, before night, attended with thunder, light- &c. They had other articles of commerce, niug, and rain, with a tremendous sea, that but Capt. Cook gave particular orders that brought the Discovery under bare poles till no curiosities should be purchased, till the morning appeared. She then made sail ships were supplied with provisions, and under close reefed top-sails ; and, about they should have permission from him. eleven at night, narrowly escaped running About noon Mr. King's boat returned with on sliore on lavage Island. The man at the seven hogs, some fowls, a quantity of fruit mast-head called out land, they soon, dark and roots : also some grass tor our animals. it was, got sight of it close on the lee-bow, His party was treated with great civility at as steeling directly for it. They instantly put Komango. The inhabitants did not appear r.A Hr^A o op.in ac a cicrnQl fnr fViP j^ {jg uumerous ; and their huts, which almost touched each other, were but indiffer- ent. Toopoulangee, the chief of the Island, and another, named Taipa, came on board with Mr. King. They brought a hog, as a about, and tired a gun as a signal for the Resolution (then to windward about half a mile) to do tlie same. So narrow an escape made a strong impression on the ship's com- pany, who, thoughtless as seamen are, could ,.. ^. _, ^ ..„^^ „ not help looking up to heaven with thankful present to our Captain, and promised to hearts for so signal a deliverance ? As soon bring a greater number the next day. The as it was light the next morning, we saw boats being aboard, we stood for Annamoo* this execrated Island at the distance of ka ette (or little Annamooka) and the break- about four leagues. Savage Island was ers at the S. E. but on drawing near, we discovered by Capt. Cook in 1774. In the met with very irregular soundings, which night between the 24th, and 25th, we passed obliged us to relinquish the design, and go it; and on Monday, the 28th, about ten to the southward. This carried us to lee- 'ydock A. M. we saw the Islands to the eastward of Annamooka, bearing N. by W. about five leagues distant. We steered to theS. and then hauled up for Annamooka. At the approach of night, the weather being squally, with rain, we anchored ip fifteen fathoms water. Immediately two canoes paddled towards us, and came along side without hesitation. Four men were in one ward, and we found it necessary to spend the night under sail. It was dark and rainy, and we had the wind from every direction. The next morning, Wednesday, the 30th, at day-light, we were farther off than we had been the preceding eveningf, and the wind was now right in our teeth. We continued to ply the whole day, to very little purpose ; and, in the evening, anchor- of the canoes, and three in the other. They ed in thirty-nine fathoms water ; the we.st- brought with them some. sugar-canes, bread point of Annamooka bearing E. N. E. four fruit, plantaios, and cocoa-nuts, which they miles distant. Tgopoulangee and Taipa, Jt. mm 462 VOYAGE TOWARDS 11 IE NORTH POLE, agreeable to tlieir prouwse, broutjlit oirsome 'lou-s ; and we obtained others, by barterins?, ;.oiii the different canoes that followed ns, and a Iars:!:e qnantity offniit. It is remark- able, that those who visited the ships that day, would hardly part with any of their commodities to any one but Capt. Cook. On Thursday May the 1st, a boat was hoisted out, and the master was ordered to sound the S. W. side of Annamooka. When lie returned, he reported, that he had founded between Great and Little Anna- mooka, where he found twelve fathoms depth of water; that the place was very well sheltered from winds; but that fresh water was to be had only at a considerable distance inland ; and that "ven there it was neither pieiiliful nor i;ood. For this a:ood reason, it was resolved to anchor on the north side of the Island, where, in the Captain's former voyatre, he had found a convenient place for watering and landintr. Though not above a league distant, we did not reach it till above five o'oclock in the afternoon, being retarded by the quantity of canoes that crouded round the ships, laden with abundant supplies of the produce of their Island. Several of these canoes, which were double, had a large sail, and carried between forty and fifty men each. Seve- ral women were also in them, incited, peiiiaps, by curiosity to visit ns ; thouah they were as eager as the men in bartering, and used the paddle with equal skill and dexterity. We worked into the road, and cast anchor in eitfhteen fathoms, the Island extending from E. to S. W. three quarters of a mile distant. Thus Capt. Cook resumed the station which he had occupied when he visited Annamooka three years before ; and probably where Tasman, who first dist^overed this Island, anchored in 1643. We had now been just sixty days in a passage, which in a direct course could not have exceeded ten, and had been exposed to *ievere trials, owing to some fatality in pursuing a track which there was not a seaman aboard who did not disapprove. It seemed to have no ob^ject of discovery in view, as we fell nearly into the same which U Cai)t. Cook had formerly naviuated ; nor did we meet with a single Island, wliich one or other of our late v<>yagers had not seen or visited in their ditferent routes. How it happened, is not easy to be accounted for as it was next to a nnracle, that any creature on board the Resolution remained alive to reach our present Jtarbour. Had not the copious rains that fell almost incessantly from the time that we passed the tropic till our arrival here, supplied us with u daily consum])tion of water, not only the aninmls but the men must have (lerished. JIappy were we now, however, in findmg ourselves on a friendly coast. We forgot the dangers we had escaped, and thought onlyof enjoying with inexpresssible pleasure the sweets ol these happy Islands, whose spontanemis productions perfume the air to a considerable distance with a fragrance inconceivably reviving ; and whose plantations exhibit a richness of prospect as we approach iiiein owing to the beautiful intermixture of the va! rious blossoms, v (!h a vivid green leaves of the trees, of which the most animated des. cription can afford but a fain* idea A id to these, the tuited clumps which adorn the jittle rising hills, that appear every \vht;;:e interspersed, delighttui among the verdant lawns, and rich, low, siirroiinding vailevs. Nothing in nature can beniore pleasing to the eye, or more grateful to the sense. \Ve were no sooner moored in the harbour, than we were surrounded with innumerable little boats, or canoes, most curiously constructed and ornamented ; the sides with a polish that surpassed the blackest ebony, and the decks inlaid with mother of pearl and tortoise shell equal to the best cabinet^ o( Euro- pean manufacture. In this kind of work- manship, ihose [slanders seeui to excel. Their weapons of war, their clubs, the pad- dles of their boats, and even their fish-hooks are polished and inlaid with variegated shells, by an infinite accumulation of whicii their shores are margined, ancil among them our naturalists found some*of nuperlative beauty. Ttiese boats generally held three persons, and under their decks, which take up two thirds of their length, they broii{jht the fruits of their plantations, and the m AND ROUND THE WORLD. 463 inannraetnres of their county ,which consisted ofaffieat variety of useful things, and others ornamental. Of the first sort, besides cloth of tlilferent fabrics, were combs, fish-hooks, lines, nets, needles made of bone, thread, purses, calibashes made of reeds, so closely >vr()ni?i't as to be water-tight ; with a variety of other utensils. Among the latter, were bracelets, breast-plates, ornamented with feathers of a vivid glow; masks, mantalets composed of feathers, so artfully and beau- tifully arranged, as even our £nglish ladies would riot disdain to wear. Fridny the 2ntl, during the preparations f)r watering, Capt. Cook went on shore, in ilie forenoon, accompanied by Capt. Clerke, ai:(l others, to fix on a place for setting up the observatorifts, the natives having readily c^ranted us permission. Nor was the civility ot the chiefs confined to their readiness in supplying the ships wilh provisions ; for they complimented the Captain with the «se of a large boat-hou.se, conveniently situ- ated near the beach, and which answered the purpose of a tent : and at the same time presented the otficers with breast- plates, beautifully decorated with feathers, beina; the richest off*erings they had to make. In return, our commander was not wanting in "[enerosity, loading them with hatchets, knives, linen- cloth, glass, and beads, with which they thought themselves amply re- paid. Toobou, the chief of the Island, con- ducted Capt. Cook and Omiah to his house, situated on a plea^jant spot in the centre of his plantation. It was surrounded with a grass-plot, which he said was for the pur- pose of cleaning their feet before they enter- ed his habitaion, such an attention to cleanliness we had never observed before, wherever we had visited in this ocean ; though we afterwards found it to be very common at the Friendly Islands. No car- pet in an English drawing-room could be kept neater, than the mats that covered the floor of Toopou's house. Tents were now carried on shore, the astronomers observa- tory erected ; wooders and waterers appoint- ed ; and all the artificers on board emploj^ed in the re,parations of the ships; not a few being wanting after a voyage of two months, 7 through a tempestuous sea, during which the elements of fire, air, and water, might be said to be in perpetual conflict. While these things were about, we bartered for some hogs and fruit ; the ships were crouded with the natives ; and as very few of them came empty-handed, we were speedily supi)lied with every refreshment. Duringr these transactions the two Captains, ana the chiefs of Annamooka, were contriving to vary the pleasures of their resnective guests, and to entertain • them with new diversions. They were mutually engaged on board and on shore to surprise each other with novelty. On board, the chiefs were entertained with music, dancing, and feasting, after the European manner; and with what seemed more pleasing to them, as they paid more attention thereto, with the various operations of the artificers who were at work on their respective employ- ments. The facility with which the boat, builders performed their work attracted pan ticularly their notice ; when they^ beheld the labour of a year with them, performed in a week, by a less number of hands, tlieir astonishment was beyond conception ; nor were they less amazed to see large timber cut through the middle, and sawed into plank, while they were spectators, which they had no means of etf'ecting in their Island in many days. The chiefs on shore in return, endeavoured to entertain out gentlemen : they feasted them, like tropical kings, with barbicued hogs, fowls, and with the most delicious fruits. After dinner, they introduced their music, and dancers, who were chielly of the theatrical kind, and excelled in agility, and varied attitudes, many of the capital performers in Europe. A sort of pantomine succeeded, in which some prize-fighters displayed their feats of arms ; and this part of the drama concluded with a humorous representation of some laughable story which produced among the chiefs, and their attendants, the most immo- derate mirth. The songsters came last, the melody of whose voices was heightened by a kind of accompaniment, not unusual in the earliest ages, au)ong the politest tiationst as may be learnt from ancient paintings. ;^*^s! f y' 1 li 46i VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, where the singers and dancers are represent- ed H'ith flat dams or shells in their hands, snapping them together, to harmoni/e their tu.ies, and regulate their movements. Though this farcical exhibition was insipid to us, it was not wholly without its use, in marking a similarity of manners among muuliind, at the distance of half the ^lobe, and at a period whcii the arts of civ)i life were in their infancy. Who knows, but that tile seeds of the liberal arts, that have now been sown by European navigators in these happy climes, may, a thousand years hence, be ripened into maturify ; and that the people, who are just emerging from ignorance into science, mav, when the memo- ry of these voyages are forgotten, be found in the zenith of their improvements by other adventurers, who may pride themselves as the first discoverers of new countries, and an unknown people, intinitely superior to those who at that time may inhabit these regions, and who may have lost their boasted arts, as we, at this day see, among the wretch- ed inhabitants of Greece, and the still more miserable slaves of Egyptian bondage. Such are the vicissitudes to which the inha- bitants of this little orp are subject ; and «uch, perhaps, are the vicissitudes which the globe itself must undergo before its final dissolution. To a contemplative mind, these •Islands present a mortifying spectacle of the ruins of a broken and desolated portion of the earth ; for it is impossible to survey so many fragments of rocks, some with inha- bitants and some without, and not conclude ivith the learned Dr. Burnet, that they are the efl*ects of some early convulsion of the earth, of which no memory remains. Capt. Cook having settled every thing to his satisfaction, returned on board in the evening, leaving Mr. King in command upon the Island. Taipa was now become our trusty friend, and, in order to be near oar party, had a house carried on men's ahoulders, a quarter of a mile, and placed by the side of a shed which our party •ecu pied. On Saturday the 3d, our various operations •n shore began. Some were busied in makini^ bay, others in filling oar water- o casks, and a third party iu cutting wood. On this day Mess. King and Baijy begraii to observe equal latitudes of the sun, in order toget the rate of our time-keepers. In the evening, Taipa harangued the natives for «ome time, but we could only guess at the subject, and supposed he was instructing them how to treat us, and advising theni to bring the produce of the Island to market. His eloquence had the desired efl*ect, and occasioned us to receive a plentiful supply of provisions the day following. On the 4th, the Discovery lost her small bower anchor, the cable being cut in two by the rocks. On the 6th, we were vi.sited by a chief from Tongataboo, whose name was Feenou : he was introduced by Taipa in the character and style of king of all the Friendly Isles. Capt. Cook was now in- formed, that, on our arrival, a canoe had been immediately dispatched to Tongataboo with the news, which occasioned his com- ing to Annamooka. We were also informed bv the ofilicers on shore, that, on his arrival, all the natives were ordered out to meet him, who saluted him by bowing their heads as low as his feet, the soles of which they touched with the palm of each hand, aiul afterwards with the back part. A personage received with such extraordinary marks of respect, could not be supposed less than a king. In the afternoon our Captain went to pay a visit to this great man, having first received from him a present of two fish, brought on board by one of his attendants. As soon as the Captain landed, Feenou came up to him. He was tall and thin, and uppeared to be about thirty years of age. His features were more of the European cast than any we had seen here. After the first salutation, Capt. Cook requested to know if he was king ; as he entertamed some doubts on that score, perceiving he was noi the man whom he remembered to have seen in that character during his former voyage. Taipa answered eagerly for him, and menti- oned no less than one hundred and fifty* three Islands, of which, be said, he was the sovereign. Soon after, onr grand visitor, attended by five or six servants, accompa- nied us on board. C$i|>t* Cook made tliem most unm< AND ROUND THE WORLD. 4C6 luitable presents, ftnd entertained them in a such implicit o)3cdience, (hat it was 'bronchi manner which he thought would be most on board before we had finished our dinner. jigreeable to them. Towards the evenmg (he Captain attended them on shore in his boat, into which, by order of the chief, three hogs were conveyed, as a return for the presents he had received. We were We had many opportunities of remarking how expert these people were in thievery. Tlven some of their chiefs were not ashamed of practising; that art. On the 9th one of them was detected carrying out of the ship tiienmformed of an accident, the relation of the bolt belonging to the spun-yarn winch» tvhich will convey some idea of the extent of which he had carefully concealed under the authority exercised here over the inferi- •• • - ~ or sort of people. While Feenou was on board the Resolution, an inferior chief ordered all the natives to retire from the Eost they ocfcupied. Spme of them, however, aviug ventured to return, he beat them most unmercifully with a large stick. One, in particular received, so violent a blow on the side of the face, that the blood gushed from his mouth and nostrils ; and» after lying iiiotiotfless for some time, he was removed from the plar? in convulsions. The savage who gave the blow, on being told, his clothes ; for which offence the Captain sentenced him to receive a dozen lashes, and to be confined till he paid a hog for his' liberty. Though, af^er this circumstance we were troubled with no more thieves of rank, their servants and slaves were con- stantly employed in this dirty business ; and they received a flogging w'th as much seeming indifTerence, as if it had been upon the main-mast. When any of them were caught in the act of thieving, instead of inter- ceding in their behalf, their masters would advise us to kill them : but as we were not that he had certainly killed the man, only disposed to be their judges and executioners laughed at the circumstance, and, indeed, they generally escaped without any kind of it was very evident he did not grieve for punishment : for we thought them to be what he had done. ^ We had afterwards the alike insensible of the shame and torture of satisfaction of bearing, that the poor sufferer corporal chastisement. At length Capt. was out of danger. , On the 7th, being Clerke contrived' a mode of punishment Wednesdsy, the Discovery having found which had some effect Immediately upon her small' Dower anchor, shifted her birth ; detection he ordered their heads to be coni- butnot till after her best bowei* cable had pletely shaved, and thus pointed them out met with the fate of the other. This day as objects of ridicule to their countrymen ; Feenou dined on board the Resolution ; at the same time our people were put upon and also on the next, when he was attended by Taipa, Toobou, and some otlier chiefs. Taipa only, however, was permitted to sit at table with Feenou, or even to eat in his their guard, to deprive them of future oppor- tunities for a repetition of their thefts. Feenou was so fond of our company, that he dined on board every day ; but he did prer' that purpose; which exacted to the dish he attempted to imitate. d o I'll'! J i ^!K^ V fl : 'h. 466 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. Sunday the lltb, we removed from the Afiore, the observatories, iiorses, and n variety of things we had landed, intending to sail as soon as the Discovery should have recovered her best bower anchor. The live stock which had been landed the day after our arrival, on a small Island, about half a mile from the shore to graze, were amazinu^ly recovered : from perfect skeletons, the horses and cows were grown plump, and as playful as colts. On the 12th, the tents were struck, and Mr. Philipson, lieutenant ot- marines, lost all his bedding, by the carelessness of the centinel, who received twelve lashes for neglect of duty. In the morning, the long-boat was found swamped, and all the stern sheets, aid several other articles belonging to.her missing, and never recovered, for which the marine, who had the care of the watch, wa* severely punish- *?d. Feenow, hearing that the Captain meant to proceed to Tongataboo, earnestly entreated him to alter his plan ; expressing as much aversion to it, as if, by diverting him from it, he wished to promote some particular interest of his own. He warmly recommended a group of Islands called Hapaee, lying to the N. E. where he assur- ed us, we could be easily and plentifully supplied with every refreshment ; and even offered to attend us thither in person. In consequence of his advice Hapaee was made choice of; and as it had not been visited by any European vessel, the surveying it be- came an object to Capt. Cook. On 'J'uesday the 13th, Capt, Clerke's anchor was happily recovered ; and on the morning of the ]4thj we made sail, and left Annamooka, with a fine breeze, wind N. E. course W. S. W. Notwithstanding this Island is somewhat higher than the other small Isles that sur- round it, yet it is lower than Mangeea and Wateeo ; and even those are but of a moder- ate heij?ht. The shore where our ships lay, consists of a steep, rugged, coral rock, about nine or ten feet high, except two sandy beaches, which are defended from the sea, by a reef of the same sort of rock. In the centre of the Island is a salt water lake,' ;itH ^id)'>on'U' ?i ••■'■' '!>■ ' (!>Mi>Ml J. f!i!d) '3f(>i(i -ny ! tree upon it. About four o'clock P. M. we steered to the north, leavini^ 'I'otifuu and Kao on our larboard. We intended to have anchored fur the night, but it caVe were told, that Toofoa is but thinly inhabi- ted, but that the water upon it is excellent. On Thursday the 15th, at day-break, we ^ were not far from Kao, which is a larg« " rock of a conic figure ; we steered to th« passage between Footoolia and Hafaiva> with a gentle breeze, at 8. £. About ten o'clock, Feenou came on board, and conti- nued with us all day. He brought with him some fruit and two hogs ; and in th« course of the day, seir ral canoes came to barter quantities of the former article, which were very acceptable to us, as our stock began to be low. At noon we observed in latitude 19 deg. 49 min. 45 sec. S. and we had made seven miles longitud« from Annamooka ; at the same time Toofoa bore N. 88 deg. W. Kao N. 71 deg. W, Footooha N. 89 deg. W. and Hafaiva S. 12 deg. W. i )v ■-)V ,>,..!<.,. llj;' !i>{V){ (li iiC .« }Jh ; ,-,;-]^ i J. '.[ ■> , _ 'V )-=*-^ ; \, /'..■:, '.'. V i .,-•1 '■•■ .>! !.. ' * ii ; ■l.-ii i-ii4 ,?.)ibK/. 'UU ,• uij U) Vj;jT /; "{'! bii! ■.i .'il ' nil '•'"« 1*1111! If jf! '(' !4 i"?'* -'i il r; 1 ^s=^ «.»• i Mr \'/ W CHAP. V. .«0 t)[n.>»lv. ;»,f '(^t r, ;•• ) i; " i •« Atrivat of the Rti»httion anA Discovery at Hapnee ; Friendly reception at that place; Taipa harangues the natives ; Presents^ solemnilies, and cnlerluinmentii on that occasion : Marines exercis- ed ; A dance, Jire-wurks, and nocturnal cnlertaimuents ; The Jslantl of Leefooga descnhed ; Occurrences there ; Jl female oculist discovered ; Sinj^'ular expedients used for shaving the hair • The Resolution and Discovery remove to another station ; A remarkable artificial mount andsiouc] JHoolaiva described; Account oj Po^daho, king of the Friendly Isles f The I fco ships deport from U apace Jslatids, and return to Anuamooka ; Kootoo described ; IViev strike on the rocks, but arrive safe at Tonga taboo ; Meeting of Poulaho and Feenou ; Favourable reception of our people nt I'ongalaboo, to whom the natives resort frtwi all parts ; An excursion to Mareewagee ; A deu cription of the village where the chiefs reside ; A curious work of art ; Process of mmufacturiHwiththenortliernmostof liiUe wind, we found some dimculty, i/i theselsles, where we experienced tlie same keeping clear of them. Wiien we had pas- distress for wantof ancl»ora^e,tliat wedidtlie sed this reef, we hauled up for Neeneeva, a two))reeedingevenings,havinganotIier night small low Isle in the direction of E. N. E. to spend under sail, with land and breakers from Footooha, in hopes of finding an an- ii every direction. Feenou, who had been ou chonige, but were agani disappointed ; tor board all day, went forward to Hiiinaee in notwithstanding we had iandni every direc- the evening, and took Omiah with liiiti in lion, the sea was unfathomable. In the the canoe. He was not unmindful of oui- course of this night, we saw plainly the disagreeable situation, and kept up a good ilames issuing froni a burning mountain fire the whole night, by way of land-mark, npon Toofoa. On Friday the l^th, at day- Saturday, the 17tli, at day-break, beinu break, we held on our course for Mapaee, then close in with Foa, we perceived it which at this time was in .sight ; and we was joined to Maanno, by a reef runiiina: perceived it to be low land, from the trees from one Island to the other, even with tlie only appearing above the water. At nine surface of the sea. A Ixxit was now tlis- o'clock it appeared to form three Islands, putched in search of anchorage ; andajH'o- equal nearly in si/e ; and soon after, a fourtii per place was found, abreast of a reef wifvAi appeared to the southward of these, as hirge joins Lefooga to 'Foa, having twenty-ionr as any of the others. Each of tlie^||i|lrf^s^ iJJ^KyiyjiStjl^'*^^' ^^ water. In this slation ajipeared to be of a similar l>^jK|t^^^||>;%^ point of Ilapaee bore N. IG pect, and about six or seven niffi^^Jtii^fff -s^^n^h^^ southern ])oint of Hanaee, or The most northern of them is dm^fttf^^^^^y^^^l^efid of Hoolaiva, S. 29 deg. W. no, the next Foa, the third Lefoosa, and the and the north end of Lefooga, S. 6odeg. E. lointli Hoolaiva; but they are all four in- Twoledgesof rocks lay without us; the out V 'm t B '1'' i«^:^' M\ W: ':f 'WMW' ">'! Pl^ ^'*^-^ »ii.4 '-^m: ;i;'i «;^i HHIM B| ■KMF mHMVi mi^mmmm %::i N. half J were not from the creek in 1 at fill tin We ha< snrroundi who had who had fowls, bi every kii which th( am' bliu siireds of we offere assumed 1 mooka. laden wit siiaddock and taste, rounder, enormous pounds ei come on Commanc soon accc purpose. to a hut, which was hefoi'e for Hmiah, ai other chk froutintj also seate^ asked hov fi»e days. sit by hin Hereupon nearly to t aflerwards ff\ both oh (V)ok as with them stay amon ;iny thing r-tlier man was expect kc. to th< receive su( exchang-e. AND ROUND THE WORLD. 4(iy bi=^arin^ S 50 deg W. and the other W. by his address to the assembly, Feenoa left ]S'. halt N. distant two or three miles. We theui ; on which Capt. Cook was informed >vere not more than three quarters of a mile hy l^aipa, thjat it was necessary he shouldi from the shore ; and, as we lay before a make a present to Earoupa, the chief of the creek in the reef, it was convenient landing Island. The Captain being not unprepared at fill times. fortius, gave him such articles.as far exceed- \Ve had scarcely moored, before we were ed jiis expectation. This liberality created s\n-rounded with natives from all quarters, isimilai demands from two chiefs of other who had been apprized of our coinnig, and Isles who were present, and even from Tai- ^lio had loaded their canoes with hogs, pa himself. Soon after he had made the fowls, bread-fruit, yams, plantains, and last of these presents, Feenou returned, and every kind of fruit the Islaud produced, .expressed his displeasure to Taipa, for wluch they exchanged for broken glass, red sutiering the Captain to be so lavish of his am' blue beads, hatchets, knives, nails, favours. But this was doubtless a finesse, as shreds of scarlet cloth, or indeed any thing he certainly acted in concert with the others. we ottered them. Here our friend Feenou Feenou, having resumed his seat, ordered assumed the same consequence as at Anna- Earoupa to sit oy him, and harangue the mooka. He brought along-side his canoe peoi>le as Taipa had done, which he di^ ladeu with four large ho^s, bread-fruit, and nearly to the same pur])ort. These ceremo- shiuldocks, a fine odoriterous fruit, in smell nies being over, the chief, at the Captain*s and taste, not unlike a lemon, but larger autl request, conducted him to three stagnant rounder. He brought likewise jf-auis of an pools of what he calletl, fresh water ; fu enormous size, weighing from fifty to sixty one of which the water was indeed tolerable, pounds each. Fetnou and Omiah having and the situation convenient for filling the come on board in order to introduce our casks. When the chief returned to his former station, he found a baked hog and some yams smoking hot, ready to be con- veyed on board for his dinner. He invited Feenou and his friends to partake of llie repast, and tliey embarked for the ship, though none but himselt sat down with us at table. Dinner being over, the Captaiu conducted them ashore ; and, beloje lie 'eturned, received as a present from the and a quantity of yams. We had a pi" tifwl supply of provisions, for, in the course ot the day, }\e Commander to the natives of the Island, he soon accompanied them on shore lor that purpose. The chief conducted the Captain to a hut, situated close to, Vlie sea-beach, uhich was brought thither tut a few minutes before for his reception. In this Feenou, Omiah, and Capt. Cook, were seated. The otlier chiefs and the multitude appeared fronting them on the outside : and they also seated themselves. Capt. Cook being chief, a fine larjje turtle, asked how long he intended to stay, said "^ - "—- ^^t five days. Taipa was therefore ordered to sit by him, and declare this to the people, got by "bartering with the natives, jibout Hereupon lie harangued them in words twenty small hogs, together with a large nearly to the following purport, as we were quantity of fruit and roots. ,,> , , ,. afterwards informed by Omiah. He exhort- Sir day the 18th,, early in' the hiofning, ed both old and young, to look upon Capt. Feenou and Omiah, who ::ow, with the Cook as a friend, who meant to continue chief, slept on shore, came aboard to request with them a few days ; and that, during his Capt Cook's presencie upon the Island. He stay araonjj them, theyjvould not steal accompanied them, and upon landing, was nny thing irom him, or ofiend him in any other manner, He informed them that it was expected they should bring hogs,, fruit, kc. to the ships; for which they would receive such articles as he enumerated in exchange. Sooa after Taifia had deliverei 6 conducted to the place where ^e had been seated the preceding day, »nd where he beheld a large concourse of people already assembled. Though we jmaginea something extraordinary was in agitation, yet we (H)nld not coi\jettiire what, nor could Omiah give in 470 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. \is any information. Soon after we were seated, about ah hundred of the natives Appeared, and advanced, laden with yams, pVilntainst bread-fruit, codoa-nuts, and sugar- t!anes ; their burdens were deposited on our left. A number of others arrived soon after, bearing the samr kitid of articles, which were collected into two piles on oiir right- side. To these were fastened two pigs, and half a dozen fowls, and to those on the left, six pigs, and two turtles. Earoupa scat* ed himself before the articles on our left, and another chief before those on our right ; they being, as we supposed, the two chiefs wlio had procured thein by order of Feenou, ivho was as implicitly obeyed here, as he had been at Annamooka, and who had Srobably laid this tax upon the chiefk of [a|>aec for the present occasion i When this muniflcent collection of provisibns was placed in order, and advantat^eously dispos- ed for public view, the bearers joined the multitude, who formed a circle round the whole. Immediately after, a number of men, armed with clubs, entered this circle or area ; where they paraded about for a (tw minutes, and then one half of them retired to onesidCi and the other half to the other side, seating themselves before the specta- tors. Presently after, they successively enter- tained us with single combats: one champion on one side challenging those of the other side, partly by vvords, but more by expres- sive gestures, to send one of their party to oppose him. The challenge was in gene- ral accepted ; the two combatants placed themselves in proper attitudes ', and th' engagement began, which continued till one of them yielded, or till their weapons ivere broken. At the conclusion of each combat, the victor squatted himself down before the chief, then immediately rose up ettd retired. Some old men, who seemed to presufe as judges, gave their plaudit in a very few words ; but the multitude, especi- ally those on the side of the conqueror, celebrated the glory he had acquired in two or three loud huzzas. In these mock fights, whitch diflfered but little from our cuuget- players in England, the combatants beat Qi\k another pretty jtverely. This cater- tainment was sometimes suspended for a short space, and the intervals of time were filled up with wrestling and boxing uiatclies The first were performed in the method practised at Otaheite, and the second ditfered very little from the English manner. \ couple of stout wenches next stepped fortli. and, without ceremony, be^an boxing widj as much dexterity as the men. This conte t, however, was but of short duration, for, in tLe space of half d minute, one of them gavejt up. The victorious heroine was applauded by the spectators, in the same manner as the successful combatants of the other sex. Though we expressed our disapprobation ofthispartof the entertainment, it did not prevent, however, two other females from entering the lists ; ^vho seemed to be spirited girls, and if two old women had not interpov. ed to part them, would probably have i^jven each other a good drubbing. When tliese sports were exhibited, three thousand spec- tators, at least, were present, and every thing was conducted with the most perfed good humour on all sides, though some of the champions, ofi>oth sexes, received blows which they must have felt the effect of jor some time after. The diversiotis being finished, the cljjef informed Capt. Cook, that the piovisious on our right-hand were a present to Oiiijali; and that those on our left, making about two thirds of the whole quantity, vvere in- tended for him, and that he might suit his own convenience in taking them aboard Four boats were loaded with the iimniti- cence of Feenca, whose fovonrs far exceed- ed any that Capt. Cook had ever received from the sovereigns of finy of the Islands we had visited in the . acific Ocean. He, therefore, embraced the first opportunity of coiivincint? Feenou, that we were not insensible of his liberality, by bestowiiin upon him such commodities as he supposed were most valuable in his estimation. Fee- nou was so highly pleased with the return that was made him, that he left the Captain still indebted to ban, by sofnding him two large hogs, some yams, arid a considerable quantity of cloth. In this manner, and in rangiuST the Island^ botanizing, examininsf V AND ROUND THE WORLD. 471 is so necessary an article in European lions: •• keeping-, is wholly unknown to these tropi"^ cal Islanders. Feenoii having expressed a desire lo see the marines periorni their exercise, Capt. \\\t cariosities, natural and artificial, we employed our time, while the live stock ^ere recruiting their flesh, and the several artificers were completeing' the repairs of the ship. It is not easv lor people, who are totally unacquainted witn the language Cook orderecl them ashore on Tuesday t^i^ of a country, to make themselves masters 20th. They went through their military of the civil policy of the inhabitants. In- manceuvres, surrounded by thousands of deed it is next to impossible in a short resi- the natives, who were frightened at the dence among them. As we observed no first firing, and fled like herds of deer from such medium as monejr, by which the value the report of the guns; but finding no of property is ascertained, it was not easy harm ensue, they took courage, and rallied to discover what else they had substituted at a distance 1 but no persuasions, could ill its room, to facilitate the modes of traffic prevail upon them to come near. After. among themselves. That each had a pro- thev had gone through various evolutionsj, jierty in the plantation he possessed, we and fired several volleys, the chief in hig could plainly discern ; and the chiefs were turn, entertained us with an exhibition, ready enough to point out their possessions, performed with an exactness, and agility, the extent of which gave them consequence, far surpassing what they had seen in our as among other civilized nations ; but no military movements. It was a kind of such thing as circulating property being dance, performed by men, in which one discoverable, by the hoarding up of which, hundred and five persons were engaged, and laying it out occasionally to advantage, each having an instrument in his "hand, one might purchase another's landed or sub- resembling a paddle, two feet and a stantial property : we could not inform our- half long, with a thin blade, and a small selves sufliciently, by what means the handle. With these instruments various fisherman purchased his canoe, or the boat- builder hisr materials, yet there cannot remain a doubt, but that the boat-builder had an interest in his boat after it was built, as well as the chief in his plantation, after lines, and so changed their stations by diffe* flourishes were made, each of which was accompanied with a difl^erent movement, or a different attitude of body. At first, the dancers ranged tliemselves. in three it IS inclosed and cultivated. With us all was carried on by barter, and an imaginary value fixed on every article. A hog was rated at a hatchet, and so many bread-fruit, rot'oa-nuts, and plantains, at a string of rent evolutions, that those who had been in the rear came into the front. At one part of the performance, they extended themy selves in one line ; afterwards they formed theni.selves into a semi-circle, and tlien beads ; and so in like manner througliout ; into two square columns. During the last hut among themselves, we saw no such va- movement, one of them came forward and lue by way of barter. We did not observe performed an antic dance, with which the so much fruit given for so many fish ; nor entertainment ended. The mu!iic that ,so many combs, needles, or useful mate- accompanied the dances wa^ produced hx rials, for a certain proportion of cloth ; yet, two drums, or rather hollow logs of wood^ doubtless, some mode 6f exchange there from which they forced a few varied, notes, must be amon^^ them ; for it is certain there by beating oa them with two sticks. The is no siich thid^ as money, at leasf, none dancers, however, did not appear to bci that we coma discerh : neither rould we much assisted or directed by^tpese sounjl.s^ discover any* disiii^ct property, which one l?ut by a chorus of vocat iiiUsic,, in v^hic^L man claimed niore fh^ti another iti the fo- all the performers joined. Thdir song' wi»9 rests or woods; but that >very ilisiti, like rather thelodious^ and their' corresponcmjg us, cdt what he wanted foi^ us6, and A^'us motions were so i^ilfdlTy txeide, pas^ing^ each «)thpr in the front, and moving progressively till they came to the rl^st. On Which two ad- vanced from each side ; twoof^Vhriin return. ed, but the other two remsliiled ; and to these, from each side, came bttie by' interval, till they had, once more, forhied a circle about the chorus. Daricing t«i a quicker measure now succeedi^d, in whii'li the per- formers made a kind' of half turn' by leaping;; then clapping theii' hands, iind snapping their fingers, repeated some words in unison with the chorus. As they procf^eded in the dance, the rapidity of their inusir inftre.-t ed; their gesture** and attitudes were vstriid with wonderful dexterity and some of !h*ir motions woyld, by an European, be fhoniriil rather indecent ; though, i:>er]iaps, tliey meant only to display the astonishing variety of the movements. This female ballet was succeeded by one performed by fifteen men ; and though .some of them Were old, time seemed to have robbed them of but little nf their a:^ility. They were disposed. in a sort of circle, divided at the front. Sometimes they siirtg slowly, jri concert with the chorus, making >«everiil ff'racefi'I motions with ♦heir haiidfi, l^ftt dUreriag froiA those of th«j women alternat outward of the s ward. ' Ic AND ROUND THE WORLD. 473 women^ at Uie same time inclining the body soothing son;if, accompanied' with motions alternately to either side, by raising one leg of their heads and hands. They also begun outward, and resting on the other; the arm with slow movements, which gradually be- of the same side being also stretched up- came more and more rapid, and closed ward. They then recited sentences, which finally with several very ingenious iransposi- were answered by the chorus ; and occasion- lions of the two circles. The festival of this ally increased the measure of the dance, by clapping the hands and accelerating the motion of the feet. Towards the conclusion, the rapidity of the music and dancing so memorable night concluded with a dance, in which the principal people assisted. In many respects it resem )lea the preceding ones, but they increased their motions to a much increased that the different movements prodigious quickness, s were hard to be distinguished When this dance was finished, and after a considerable interval, twelve other men advanced, placing themselves in double rows, fronting eacn other. On one side was taking their heads from shoulder to shoulder, insomuch that they appeared in danger of dislocating their necKS. This was attended with a clapping of the hands, and a kind of savage shriek. A person on one side, repeated something in stationed a kind of prompter, who repeated a truly musical recitative, and with an air so several sentences, to which responses were graceful, as might put some of our applaud** made by the performers and the chorus, ed performers to the blush. Hewasanswer- Tliey sung and danced slowly; and gra- ed by another, and this was repeated several dually grew quicker, like those whom they times by the whole body on each side ; and liiid succeeded. Next to these, nine women they finished, by singing and dancing, as advanced and sat down opposite the hut they had begun. The two last dances were where the chief hiid placed himself. A man immediately rose and gave tlie first of these women a blow on the back with both his fists joined : he treated the second and third in the same manner ; but when he came to the fourth, he struck her on the approved universally by the spectators. They were perfectly in time, and some of their gestures were so expressive, that it- might justly be said, they spoke the lan~ ( the attendants of Feenon : they sars, saws, and some g^audy stnngs of bea »,tvl.- 474 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, shore, with his rich acquisitioHs. This day Capt. Cook made an excursion into the Island of Lefooga, which, in some respects, >ras found to be superior to Annaniooka, tiie plantations being not only more nume< rous, but also moreexteiisive. Various parts of the country qear the sea are waste, owins" perhaps to the sandiness of the soil : but in the internal parts of the Island, the soil is better; and there the marks of population and of an improved state of cultivation, are very conspicuous. Many of the plantations are enclosed in such a manner, that the fen- ces, running parallel to each other, form spacious public roads. L.nge spots, covered with the paper-mulberry-trees, were observ- ed ; and the plantations, in general, were stocked abundantly with such plants and fruit-trees as the Island produces. To these we made some addition, by sowing the seeds of melons, pumpkins, Indian-corn, &c. At one place was a house, four times as large as the ordinary ones, with an extensive area of grass before it, to which the people probably resort on some public occasions, particularly in the rainy seasons. Near the landing- })Iace we observed a mount, two or three feet ligh, whereon stood four or five little huts, in which the bodies of some persons of dis- tinction had been interred. The Island is but seven miles in length, and its breadth, in some places, is not more than three miles. The east-side has a reef, projecting consi- derably, against which the sea breaks with great violence. It is the continuation of this reef that joins Lefooga to Foa, which is but half a mile distant ; and, at low wa- ter, the natives can walk upon this reef from one Island to the other. The shore is either a sandy beach, or a coral rock. When the Captain returned on board from his excursion, he found a large sailing canoe fastened to our stern. In this cameLatooli- nla, or Kohagee-too Fallangou, (one r erhaps the n^'^e of the person, and the er the deN. iiption of his rank or title,) wiiom the Captain had seen, during his last voyage, at Tongataboo, and who was then supposed by him to be the king of that Island. He could not be prevailed upon to come on board* but continued sitting in bis canoe with an uncommon air of gravity, The Islanders called him Areekee, or king, a title which we had rot heard any of tliein give to Feenoii, however extensive his au- thority over them had appeared to be. Latooliboula rem-.iined under our stern till the evening and tliert departed. Feentiu was on board the Resolution at that time but neither of these chiefs took the smallest notice of each other. On Tlnirsday the 22nd, some of the na- tives having stolen a tarpaulin and other things from off the dtck, the Captain applied to Feenou, desiring him to exert his authority to get them restored ; hut this application was of no eflect. ()n the 23id, as we were preparing to leave tlie I si Mid, Feenou and his prime-ministei Taipacanie alongside in a canoe, and infoiin' ed us, th.»t they were going to Vavaoo, an Island, as they said, situated about two days sail to the northward of Hapaee. Tliey assured us, that the object of their vojajje was to procure for us an additional supply of hogs, besides some red feathered caps for Omiah, to carry with hin« to Otaheite ; and desired us not to sail till their return, uhich would be in four or five days; after wliich Feenou wouki accompany us to Tongata- boo. Capt. Cook consented to wait the return of this chief, who immediately, as he pretended, set out for Vagaoo. On the 24th, a it jiort was industriously spread about by sona uf the Islanders, that a ship resembling onrshiul arrived at Annamooka since we lett it, and was now at anchor there. It was also said, that Toobou, the chief of that Island, was hastoricd thither to receive those new visitors. Upon enquiry, however, it was found, that tins report was totally void of foundation. It Is dilFicnlt to conjec- ture, what purpose the invention of this tale could answer : unless we suppose it was contrivedn.with a view of getting us removed from one Island to another. On the 25th, we went into a house where a woman was dressing the eyes of a child, who .leenied blind. The instruments used by this fe- male oculist were tvv»).slen(ler wooden probes, with which she brushed the eyes so as to make them bleed, in the same house »e AND ROUND THE WORLD. fi^iind auoUier woman shaving a child's head feet high, two and a half thick, and four nitli a shark's tooth, stuck into the end of a stick. Slie fir.st wetted the hair with a rag dipped in water, sind then applying the instrument, took off* the hair as close as if a razor had been used. Capt. Cook soon after tiied upon himself one of these remarkable iiislruments, and found it to be an excellent substitute. The natives of these Islands, iiowever, have a different method of shaving iheir beards* which operation they performed with two shells one of which they place iiiider 4 part of the beard, and with the other applied above, they scrape off' that part: in this manner they can shave very Tliere are among them sonie who seem to iir.ike this a profession ; for it was common 'ir our sailors when ashore, to hiive their Diiirds scraped off', after the mode of llapaee, as it was for their chiefs, when on board, to be shaved by our barbers. Finding at this time, that little or nothing of what the broad, hewn out of coral-rock ; and we were told by the J slanders, that not more than half its length was seen above grouud. They called it Tangata Areekee (Tangata in tneir language signifies man ; Ar*»ekee, king) and said it had been set up, and the mount raised in memory of one of their kings. On the approach of night, the Oap- tain and Mr. Gore returned on board, and Mr. Bligh came back from .sounding the bay, in which he found from fourteen to twenty fathoms water, with a bottom prin- cipally of sand. Leefooga and Hoolaiva are separated from each other by a reef of though the i>rocess is rather tedious, coral rocks, dry at low water. Some of our gentlemen, who landed in the last mention- ed Island, found not the smalle.st mark of cultivation, or habitation upon it, except a single hut, in which a man employed to catch fish and turtle resided. It is remark- able that it should remain in this desolate condition, since it communicates .so imme- Island produced was brought to the ships, diately 'with Lefooga, which is so well Capt. Cook determined to change our station and to wait Feenou's return m some other aiichoring-place, where we might still be supplied with refreshments ; accordingly, On Monday the 26th, in the forenoon, we cultivated. The west side of it has a bend- ing, where there seems to be good anchor- age ; and the east .side has a reef, as well as Lefooga. Uninhabited as Hoolaiva is, an artificial mount has been raised upon made sail to the southward along the reef it,>qual in height to some of the surround- ing trees. On Tuesday the 27th, at day-break, signal was made to weigh, and as we intended to attempt in our run to Tongataboo, a passage to Annamooka, by the S. W. among the S. E. by E. distant a mile and intermediate Isles, Mr. Bligh was sent in a The Discovery did not cast an- boat, to sound before the ships. But before of the Island, and having passed several shoals, hauled into a bay, that lies between tiie north end of Hoolaiva, and the .south of Lefooga and there anchored in seven-. teen fathoms water, the point of Lefooaa hearing " " ' " a half char till sun-set; she having touched on we got under sail, the wind became so va- oiie of the shoals; but backed oft' again riable and unsettled, as to render it unsafe vvi^Jiout receiving the lea.st damage. We to attempt a passage wjth which we were had no sooner cast anchor, than ?/ir. Bligh, so little acquainted : we therefore lay fast, master, was sent to sound the bay, where and made signal for the master to return. we were now stationed ; and Capt. Cook, He, and the master of the Discovery, were af'oonij)anied by Lieutenant Gore, landed afterwards sent, each in a boat to examine oii the southern part of Lefooga, to look for the channels. Towards noon, a large sail- tVesh water, and examine the country. On ing canoe came under our .stern, in which the west-side of the Island they observed was a |)€rson named Poulaho, or Futtafaihe, an artificial mount of considerable antiquity, who was ,ro- ceevithout of a sen or twen( in the < more wil . plenty of which the 'he a{'terno ffeded by course be'ir heal to win northern sii in the evf ni to Lopangi 'ee or N. V l>iit the hot hreakers |y away for AND ROUND THE WOULD 477 lnt hifjhJy valnetrson on board them had perish. ed. This melancholy tale did not gain much credit with us, as vve were by this time sufficiently acquainted with the chu. racter of the relator. The truth perhaps was, that he had been unable to procure at Vavaoo the expected supplies ; or, if he obtained any there, that he had left them at Hapaee, which lay in his way back, and where he must have heard that JPoulalio had come to visit ns ; who therefore, he knew, would, as his superior, reap all the merit and reward of procuring those supplies, without having had any participation of the trouble. The invention, however, of this loss at sea was not ill imagined ; for we had lately, had very stormy weather. On the 7th, Poulaho, and some other chiefs, who had been wind-bound with him arriv- ed ; at which time Capt. Cook happened to be ashore with Feenou, who now appear- ed to be sensible of the impropriety of his conduct, in arrogating a character to which he had no just claim ; for be not only acknowledged Poulaho as sovereign of Tongataboo, and the adjacent Isles, bnt affected to insist much on it. The Captriin left him, and went to pay a visit to the kin;>, whom he found sitting with a few of the natives before him ; but great numbers hastening to pay their respects to him, the circle enlarged very fast. When Feeiion approached, be placed himself amun;> the AND ROUND TJIR WORLD. A7a jeA Jlii'l sat Ijcfure Poiilulio, as attendants Steering by the ilircctiun of onr two pilots, ,,„ Ills niajt'siy. lie at first seemed to be tor the widest space between thase Isles, .^oinewinit oonl'ustd and abashed; but soon we were insensibly drawn upon a lar^e t1at» leoovjMed himself. Avery short conversa- npon which lay innumerable rocks ot coral, lion passed between these two chiefs, which below the surface of the sea. Notwith- mmf. of «>s mult rs!o(id ; nor were we satis- standing onr boats were sounding a-head. I'led with Omiali's interpretation of it; and our utmost attention and care to avoid liowever, from what we observed, we were those rocks, we were unable to prevent th« p\ilii<:ieMtiy undt'ceived as to Feenou's rank. Resolution from striking on one of them : ]{()th the kini^and Feenou accompanied the nor did the Discovery, tliough at our stern, Caplaiii on board t«) dinner ; but Poujaho escape better. Happy for us it was, that we „;ily sat at table. Feenou, after havm{? had day-Hght and fine weather. By clap- Hiiide his obeisance in the usual mode, by ping the sails to the masts, and lightening suhiting" the foot of his .sovereign with his the ship abaft, we swaved her oirt': and it hi'vA and hands, retired from the cabin ; fortunately happened tlirongh the protec- aii' it now appeared, that he coidd neither tion of an over-ruling providence that nei- eat nor drink in the king's presence. tlier of the ships stuck fast,norsustained any On Sunday the 8th, at eight o'clock, A. damage. We now held on our course, and M. we weighed anchor, and set sail for the moment we saw a place where we could Tonsalaboo, or Amsterdam I.>»land, having anchor with any degree of safety, we came a gentle breeze, at N. E. We were accom- to ; and the masters were dispatched with panied by fourteen or tii'teen sailnig vessels, Ihe bouts to sound. Soon after we had belonging to the Islanders, every one of cast anchor, several of tlu natives of Ton- which out-ran the ships. Feenou was to gataboo came to us iu their canoes, assuring have taken his passage in the Resolution ; ns, that we should meet with deep water but preferred his own canoe, and put two further in, free from rocks Hieir intelli- meii on board, as pilots, to conduct ns to gence was true ; for, about four o'clock, the best anchorage. I'he royal canoe was the boats made a signal of having found (listinj^uished from the rest by a small bun- good anchoring ground. We therefore (lie ot grass, of a red colour, fastened to weighed, and stood in till dark, when we the end of a pole, and fixed in the stern, in anchored in nine fathoms water, with a the same manner as our ensign staffs. At clear sandy bottom. During the night, we live in the afternoon we descried two small had some rain ; but early in the morning, Islands, at the distance of four leagues to the wir. ' became southerly, and bringin* the westward. One was called by bur two on fair weather, we weighed again, and pilots HoongaIIai)aee, and the other Hoon- worked towards the shore of Tongataboo. p Tonga. They are situated in the latitude While we continued plying up the harbour, of 20deg. 36 min. S. and about ten leagues the. king frequently sailed round ns in his from the western point of Annanu)oka, in canoe; and at the same time there was a the direction of S. 4() deg. \V. We were great number of small canoes about the told only five men resided on Hoonga Fla- .ships. Two of these not getting out of the paee; and that lloonga Tonga had no way of the king's vessel, he ran quite over inhabitants. We continued a S. W. course them with the greatest unconcern. Among- till two o'clock, A. M. of the })th, when we those who came onboard the Resolution saw several little Islands, beyond which was Otago, who had been .so useful to Capt. appeared Eoea and Tongata]>oo, We now Cook, when he visited Tongataboo in his had twenty-tive fathoms water, with a bot- preceding voyage, and one Toobou, who ti>i!i of broken coral and sand ; and the had, at that time, attached himself to Capt. atalM o. We found the king waiting o»ir arrival ou the beach, who, when we landed, conefore hira. shewed him whatever we had there, lii was struck with admiration at the sight of the cattle ; and the cross-cut saw rivetted his attention. Towards noon Poulahocaine on board, bringing with him his son, who was about twelve years of age. The kiii!,'^ dined with Capt. Cook ; but the son, thoi'cii present, was not permitted to sit down by him. Tl»e Captain fcund it very cc^iveuient to have Poulaho for his guest ; for, when- ever he was present, which frequently liap- pened, every other native was excluded from the table : whereas, if neither he nor Feenou were on board, the chiefs of inferior rank, round which numbers of people were seat- were very importunate to be of the dininj ed. We supposed this to be the great per- party, or to be admitted at that time into the sonage, but were informed by Feenou, that cabin, which became consequently very mnch another who was sitting on a piece of mat, crowded. The king was soon reconcile*! to was Mareewagee. To him we were intro- our cookery, and was fond of our wine. He duced, and he received us very graciously, now resided at the malaee near our tent, This chief, who was also under a tree, was where !ie this evening entertained our people named Toobou, whom wc shall call old with a dance, in which he himself, though Toobou, to distinguish him from his name- so corpulent and unweihiy, engaged, sake, who has already been mentioned as Sunday the 15th, in the morning, Capf. Capt. Fiu'ueaux's frie» d. Both he and Cook received a message from Old Toobou, Mar«ewaa:ee were venerable in their appeir- importing, that he was desirous of seeins^ ance. The latter was slender in his person, iiim^on shore. He and Omiah accordingly and seemed to be near seventy years of age. waited on Hiat chief whom they found sit- Old Toobou, who desired us to sit down by tinar, like one of the ancient patriarcliK, him, was some what corpulent, and aluios;, under tue shade of a tree, having a large blind from a disorder in his eyes. The Cap- piece of cloth, the manufacture of tlie tain, not expecting on this occasion, to meet Island, spread out before him. He desired with two chiefs, had brought on shore a pre- them to place themselves by him : .ifter sent for only Cfi\e : this, therefore, he was whicii he told Omiah, thut the cloth, wit oblige 1 to divide between them ; but, as it happened to be considerable, both of them appea ed tobesiati$fied. Our|yi fine cCoth, with a piece of a coarser kind, seventy-six yards lonjj, and seven and a half broad .spread before them and under them. On oneside was aqiiantity of cocoa-nuts; and^on the other, a lara:e boar. A multitude of peo- ple sat round the cloth, among whom was Marerwagee, with other persons of rank. The Captain was requested to seat himself bv the prince : and then Omiah informed him, that he had been instructed byPouiaho to tell him, that as his majesty and the Captain were friends, he hoped that his son l^attafailie might be comprehended in this union ; and that the Captain as a testimony of liis consent, would accept of the princes present. Our commander readily agreed to this i.roposal, and invited all the chiefs to dine with him on board. Accordingly, the voung prince, old Toobou, Mareewagee, "three or four subordinate chiefs, and two old ladies of high rank, accompanied us to the ship. Mareewagee was dressed in a new piece of cloth, with six patches of i^d feathers on the skirts of it. This dress was probably made on purpose for this visit ; for as soon as he arrived on board, he iMitit off, and presented it to our Captain. When dinner was served up, not one of them would even sit down, or eat a morsel of any thing, as they were all taboo, they said ; which word, though it has a very comprehensive meaning, signifies, generally, that a thmg i* prohibited. Why they were thus restrained at present, was not accounted for. Having made presents to them all, and gratified their curiosity, by shewing them every part of the sliip, the Captain conducted them ashore. When the boat had reached the lanams. Towards evening a num- ber of the Islanders came, and havi ig seated themselves in a circle, sung in concert with t!ie music of bamboo drums, which were placed in the centre. Three of them were long ones, and two were short. With the.se they struck the ground end-wise. There were two others that lay side by side on the ground, one of which was partly split : on these a person continued beating with twt» sticks. They sung three songs during our .stay, and the entertainment lasted, after w« left th» m, till ten o'clcck. For light, they burned the leaves ..i' wharry palm. In th« mean time, Mr. Anderson, witli st.veral other gentlemen, made an excursion into the country, by whom we were furnished with the following observations. Westwaid of the tent, the country for about two miles, i,« entirely uncultivated, though covered with trees and bu^hes growing naturally with the greatest vigour. Beyond this a pretty large plain extend.^ itself, on which ar« cocoa-trees, and some small plantations. Near the creek, which runs west of the tent, the lar J 'i& perl otly flat, and partly over- flowed every tide by the sea. When the waters retire, the surface is seen to consist of coral rock . i nterspersed with holes ofyelJowislt 4BI>^ Voyage towards the north pole, mttd; and near the edges, where it is rftther more firm, are vast numbers of little openings, whence .issue innumerable small ctabs, which swarm upon the spot, but are so very nimble,-^that, when approached, they instantaneously disappear, and bnfile all the dexterity of the natives, who endea- vour to catch them/i' At this place is a work of art, which testifies some detjree of inge- nuity and perseverance. On one side is a narrow causeway, which, gradually increas- ing in breadth, rises with a gentle ascent to the height of ten feet, where its breadth is five paces, the whole length being about seventy-four paces. Adjacent to this is a kind of circus, thirty paces in diameter, about one or two feet higher than the causeway that joins it ; and in the middle of this circus, some trees are planted. On the opp - site side, another causeway descends, which is partly in ruins, and not above forty pares in length. The whole is built of large coral- stones, with earth on the surface, jvergrown with shrubs and low trees. From the marks of decay iu acveral places, it is probably of some antiquity : bat it seems to be of no service at present, whatever may have been its use in former times. All that could be learnt of the natives was, that it was called Ktchee, and belonged to Ponlaho, the king. • Monday the 16th, in the morning, Ca])t. Cook, Mr. Gore, and others, took a walk into the country ; in the course of which we met with an opportunity of seeiiiiy the whole process of making cloth, the princi- pa! yajinufacture of this island, as well as of many others in the South Sea. An ac- count oi t is operation as peitormed at this place, ma/ not improperly be subjoined here. The manufacturers, who are of the female sex, take the slender stalks or trunks of tlie paper mulberry, which rarely grows more than seven feet in height, and about the thickness of four lingers. From these jtaik:» they strip the bark, and scrape otf the txtorior rind ; after which the bark is rolled lip, and macerated for some time in water : it is then b<>aten with a square instrument of wood, full of C'arse grooves, but some- times with a plain one. The operation is vl'lea repea^cM by uuuther person ; or the bark is folded several times, and beat longer^ which is probably intended to close rather than divide its texture. It is then spread out to dry ; the pieces being from four to six or seven feet in length, and about half aa broad. These ryieces are joined by sraear> ing part of them with the glutinous juice of a berry, called tooo ; and after being thus lengthened, they are placed over a large jiiece of wood, with a sort of stamp, composed of a fibrous substance, laid be- neath them. The manufacturers then take a bit of clotii, and having dipped it in a juice expressed from the bark of a tree, call- ed Kokka, rub it briskly over the piece tint is making. This leaves upon the surface .^^ dry gloss, and a dull brown colour ; and the stamp makes, at the same time, a slig^ht impression. Thus they prooe.d, f >;nuig and staining by degrees, till a pi' , , jth, of the reauisite length and breadth, is pro- duced. They generally leave a border, about a foot broad, at the sides, and rather longer at the ends, unstained. If any parti of the onginal pieces have holes, or are t(, thin, they glue spare bits upon them, till t'- }ir thickness equals that of the rest. Whenever they are desirous of producing a black colour, they mix the juice of the Kokka with the soot procured from an oily nut, called dooedooe. They assert, that the black cloth, which is usually most glaz- ed, makes a cold dress ; but the other a warm one. On our return, we met with Feenou, whom we took with us, and ai\u ther young chief, on board to dinnc-, which wiien served up, neither of them Nvould eat a morsel ; saying that they were taboo avy : but when they found, that, in .dressing the pig and some yams, no avy (or water) had been made use of, they both sat down, and eat very heartily : they drank also <)nr wine, on being assured no water was in it ; from whence vve inferred, that they were at this time, for some parlit;"'ar reason, forbidden to use water; or it perhaps, they did not like the water wf; . "^ used, it being taken out of one of the piti- ces wherein the Islanders bathed. Tuesday the 17th, \va,s fixeil upon by Mareewag'^e for giving a grand haiva, oi entertainn invited to of this ch large spac pose. In natives, ca of whom at each er These pol each side < iwo large advantage. ',arions ki Mareewagi Clerke, '\ niadr, the o'clock to i.all Mai. sisted of s( whom were we called d resemble tl of wood, i some of the as a man of They are e end, and o\ inches in bi of the drun the trunk i operation o instrument and having they sit an( two cylindi the wrist, ai >v!iich mean !if)und is pre and occasio their heatini hy inciting t instrument. In the firs fy-fonr men hands a su about two fe sliape an ob strnments, i mado (iiffere them to the »anie instant AND ROUND THE WORLD entertainment, and we were all this day invited to attend. Before the temporary hut of thia chief, and near our land station, a large space had been cleared for that pu r- nose. In tFie morning vast numbers of the pose came in from the comitry, every one of whom bore on his shoulder a long pole, at each end of which a yam was suspended. These poles and yams being deposited on each side of tlie open space, or area, formed t^vo large heaps, piled up to the greatest advantage, and decorated with small fish of '.urioiis kinds. They were a present from Mareewagee to the two Captains Cook and (Merke. The necessary preparations being mad- , the Islanders began about eleven o'clock to exhibit those dances which they i.all 31ai. The band of music, at first, con- sisted of seventy men as a chorus, amidst whom were placed three instruments, which we called drums, though they did not much resemble them. They are cylindrical pieces of wood, from three to four feet in length, some of them, trunks of trees, twice as thick as a man of ordinary size, and some smaller. They are entirely hollow, but close at each end, and open only by a chink, about three inches in breadth, running nearly the length of the drum. By this opening the rest of tlie trunk is hollo ed ; which must be an operation of some difiiculty. This musical instnunent is called by the natives Naffa ; and having the chink turned towards them, they sit and beat vigorously upon it, with two cylindrical pieces of wood, as thick as the wrist, and about a foot in length, bv nliich means a rude, but loud and powerful m\nA is produced. They vary at intervals, .'ind occasionally the strength and rate of their heating, and likewise change the tones, hy beating towards the end or middle of the instnunent. In the first dance were four ranks of twen- ty-four men each. These held in their hands a small thin wooden instrument, about two feet in length, resembling in its shape an oblong paddle. With these in- struments, which are called pagge, they mado different motions; such as pointing them to tlie ground on one side, and, at the »ame iiiJitant, inclining their bodies the same way ; then shifting them to the oppoadto side in the same manner, and with similar inclinations ; passing them with great quickness from one hand to the other, and twirling them about with remarkable dex- terity, and various manoeuvres. Their mo- tions> which were slow at first, quickened as the drums beat faster ; and they re eated sentences the whole time in a musical tone, which were answered by the chorus ; but in a short time they all joined, and ended with a shout. After a cessation of a few minutes, they began as before, and continu* ed with short intervals, upwards of a quari" ter of an hour ; and then the rear rank dividing, moved slowly round each end, met in the front, and formed the first rank ; during which movements the whole number of performers continued to recite sentences. The other rank did successively the same, till that which was foremost became the rear ; and this evolution did r.ot cease till the last rank regained its former situation. A much quicker dance, though slow at first, was then begun, and they sung for ten minutes, when the whole i)ody, in a two- fold direction, retreated, and then advanced, firming nearly a circular figure, which con- cluded the dance ; tlie chorus .etiring, and the drums being removed at the samo time. In the second dance, were forty men as a chorus, with only two drums ; and the dan- cers, or rather actors, consisted of two ranks^ the foremost of which hud seventeen per- sons, and the other fifteen. Feenou was in the middle of the first rank, which is considered, on these occasions, as the prin- cipal i)lace. They danced and repeated sentences, with very short intervals, for half an hour, sometimes slowly, and at otiier times quickly, with the highest degree of exactness and regularity. Towards the close, the rear rank divided, came round,- and occupied the place of the front, which afterwards resumed its former situation' This dance being finished, the drums were taken away, and the chorus retired, as in the preceding dance. Three very large drums were now brought in, and seventy men formed a chorus to the third dance. This consisted of two ranks, of sixteen mon Eli 4^6 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, «ach, having youns^ Toobou at vheir head, the king's brother, another by Feenou, and who was splendidly ornamented with a kind the third by Mareewagee hinself. In the of garment covered with red feathers, fourth and last dance, were forty men as a These performers danced, sung, and twirled chorus, with two drums. The performers the pagge, so as to meet with the continual were sixty men, arranged in three rows, hav- applauses of the s{)ectators, who were par- ing twenty-four in front. Before they began ticularly pleased with one attitude, in which we were entertained with a preliminary they held the face aside, as if ashamed, harangue, in which the whole number made with the pagge before it. The hindmost responses to a speaker solus. They then rank closed before the front one, which recited sentences alternately with the chorus soon after resumed its place, as in the and made with the pagge many quick rnol first and second dances : then beginning tions. They divided into two parties, with again, they formed a triple row, divided, their backs to each other ; formed again ; retreated to each end of the area, and left shifted their ranks, divided, and retreated the ground almost clear. T^'-o men rushing being succeeded by two men, who exercised in at that instant, began to r '-ise their with their clubs, as before, after whom came clubs which they make use battle, two others ; tlie dancers in the mean time They first twirled them in their i jids, and repeating in their turns with the chorus; made circular strokes before them with great they then advanced, and concluded the quickness, managing them with such skill, dance. , that, though they stood close to each other, Tliese amusements continned from eleven they never interfered. They shifted the o'clock till near three. The number oi tlubs, with uncommon dexterity, from one Islanders who attended as spectators, to^e- hand to the other ; and, after some time ther with those who were round the tiiiding kneeled down, and made various motions, placeat thetentorstragglingaboutjjunonnt'- t.ossing up their clubs in the air, and catching ed to at least ten thousand, all within the them as they fell. They then retired as compass of a quarter of a mile. Had we hastily as they entered. Their heads were understood what was spoken in this enter- ornamented with pieces of white cloth, fas- tainment, we might probably have gained tened at the crown, with a wreath of foliaiie much information with respect to they:enins round their foreheads : and, that they might and customs of this people. Though the be free from incumbrance, they had only a spectatorsconstantly applauded the diti'erent very small i)ieee of cloth tied round the motions, when well made, a considerabh' waist. A man armed with a spear now rush- share of the pleasure they received, seemed ed in, and put himself in a menacing atti- to arise from the sentimental part, or, what tude, as if he intended to strike with his the performers recited. However, the mere weapon at one of the people in the crowd ; acting part well deserved our notice, m at the same time bending the knee a little, account of the extensiveness of the plain, and trembling as it were with fury. He the variety of the motions, and the exart continued in this position near a minute, unity, ease, gracefulness, and vivacity, with and then moved to the other side, where, which they were performed. In the evening having stood in the same posture, he hastily we were entertained with the Bomai, or retreated from the area. During all this night dances, on a large area before a teni' time the dancers, who had divided them- porary dwelling place of Feenon. They selves into two parties, continued to repeat continued three hours : during which time something slowly ; and they now advanced, about twelve of them were performed, nearly and joined again, concluding the dance with in the &anie manner ax those at Hapaee. In general applause. This dance, in our opinion twoof them, in which some women hada was con'ndered as a capital performance, as part, a number of men came, and formed a some of the principal people were engaged in circle within their's. In another, which it; one of the drums being beat by FattaGiihe consisted of twenty-four men^ many motions AND ROUND THE WOULD. 487 w«had not seen before, were made with been made by burning. On some occasions, e hands, andmet wilh u:reat n|)|)lause. The they cut this part of the face with an iustrur music was once chan^red in the course of the ment. A gentleman who was op board the erening ; and in one of the dances, Feenou Discovery, has informed the writer of the |)imself appeared at the head of fifty men. history of these voyages, tliat he had an \' was neatly dressed in linen, and some opportunity of discovering the reason of a small pictures were hxxv.v; round his neck. After these diyersions were ended, we were made sensible, that these people had put themselves to many inconveniences on our nccount : for being drawn to;,'ether to this iiiiiiiliabiled part of the Island, numbers of them were ooliged to lie down and sleep under the bushes, or by the side of a tree, or very singular mark, a little above the tem- ples of many of the chiefs. In one of our excursions into the country, says this gentle- man, we perceived the day was kept sacred throughout the whole Island ; that nothing was suffered to be sold ; neither did the people touch any food ; and besides, that several ofournewacquaintances were missing. itcanoe, nay, many lay down in the open air, Enquiring into the cause, we were iold, which, they are not fond of, or spent the rfuiaiiider of the night in walking about. Notwithstanding the whole entertainment was conducted with better order than could reasonably be supposed, yet our utmost care and attention could not prevent our being others, particularly, to those of f)lundered by the natives in the most inso- or Middleburgb, and Appee ent manner: but then it must be acknow* Jedged, that among such a multitude, there must be a number of ill-disposed people, and we hourly experienced their propensity to thieving in every quarter, There was scarcely any thing which they did not en* deavour to steal. In the middle of the day* they once attempted to take an anchor from performed. off the Discovery's bows, but without effect. This day Capt. Cook bestowed some The only violence of wliich they were guilty, presents on Mareewagee, in return for those was, the breaking the shoulder-bone of one which had been received from that chief the of our goats ; in consequence of which she preceding day ; and as the entertainments died son^^ after. then exhibited called upon us to make some On Wednesday the 18th, one of the Is- exhibition in return, he ordered all the landers got out of his canoe into the quarter marines to go through their exercise, on the pallery of the Resolution, and stole from spot where the late dances had been perform^ thence a pewter bason; but being detected .ed, and, in the evening, some fire-works were ht> was pursued, and brought alOng-side the also played off at the same place. Ilie iship. Upon this occasion, three old women king, the principal chiefs, and a vast multi- in the canoe made loud lamentations over tude of people, were present. The platoon the prisoner, beating their, taces aud breasts firing seemed to please them; but when with the palms of their hands, in a very they beheld our water ro'^kets, they were that a woman of quality was dead, and that the chiefs, who were her descendants, stuy-* ed at home to have their temples burnr. This custom is not confined to this Island only, but is likewise common tt) several Ea-oowee, This mark is made on the left-side, • n the death of a mother, and on the right-side when the father dies ; and on the death of a high- priest, the first joint of the little finger is amputated. These people have therefore their religious rites, though we were not: able to discover h,ow, or when they were violent manner. This mode of expressing sorrow occasions the mark which most of these people bear over their cheek-bones ; for the repeated blows inflicted by them on tliis part rub off the skin, and cause some blood to flow out ; and when the wound is ?r«en, it looks ;as ,if a hollow Girck had 7 filled with admiration and even astonish- ment. They did not much regard the fife and drum : no the French horns that were playing duriiii^ the intervals. Poulaho sat oehind every one, no person being permitted to sit behind him : and that his view might receivt no abitruction, none sat iu)niediat«I/ 48S TOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, before him '• a lane was made by the spee- lators from him quite down to the space allotted for playing off the fire-works. While the natives were in expectation of seeing our exhibition, they engaged, for the greatest part of the afternoon, in wrestling and boxing. The first of these exercises :they call foohoo, a'^d the second fangatooa. When a person is desirous of wrestling, he gives a challenge by crossing the ground in a kind of measured pace, and clapping smartly on the elbow joint of one arm, which is bent, and sends forth a hollow sound. If no opponent steps forth, he returns and sits down : though sometimes he stands clapping his hands to provoke some one to accept his challenge. If an antagonist makes his ap- pearance, they meet with marks of the great- est good nature, generally smiling, and de- liberately adjusting the piece of cloth that is fastened round the waist. By this cloth they lay hold of each other, and he who succeeds in drawing his opponent to him, instantly endeavours to lift him upon his breast-, and throw him upon his back ; and if he can turn round with him, in that posi- tion, two or three times, before he throws him, his dexterity procures him numerous plaudits from the spectators. Should they I3e more equally matched, they quickly close, and attempt to throw each other by entwin- ing their legs, or raising each other from the ground ; in which struggles for victory they display an extraordinary exertion of strength and agility. When one of them is thrown, he immediately retires ; while the conqueror sits down for near a minute, then rises, and goes to the place from whence he came, where the victory is proclaimed aloud. After having sat a short time, he rises again, and challenges; and if several antagonists «nter the lists, he has the privilege of choos- ing which of them he pleases to engage with : hemayalso, should he throwhis competitor, challenge again. till he himself isvanquished ; in which case the people of the opposite side chant the song of victory in favour of their champion. It frequently happens, that five or «ix rise from each side, and give clMLlleoges together, so that it is not uncom- non to sees&veral sets engaged on the field 8 at the same time. They preserved great temper in this exercise, and leave the spot without the least displeasure hi their coun- tenances. When they perceive, upon trial, that they are so equally matched, as not to be likely to throw each other, they leave off by mutual consent. Should it not clearly appear which of them has had a superior advantage over the other, both sides pro- claimed the victory, and then they enga"e again ; but no one, who has been vanquisfi- ed, is permitted to engage a second time with nisconqueror. Those who intend to box advance sideways, changing the side at every pace, having one arm stretched ont before, the other behind ; and holding in one hand a j)iece of cord, which they wrap closely about it, when they meet with an opponent. This we think is intended to prevent a dislocation of the hand or fingers. Their blows are dealt out with great quick- ness and activity, and are aimed principally at the head. They strike equally well with either hand. One of their most dextroiw blows is, to turn round on the heel, jnst after they have struck their adversary, and to give him another smart blow witli the other hand backward. In boxing-matches, unless a person strikes his antagonist to the ground, they never sing the «^rig of victory ; which shews, that this diversion is less ap- proved among them than wrestling. Not only boys engage in both these exercises; but it not unfre(uiently happens, that little girls box, for a snort time, with great ob- stinacy. On all these occasions, they do not consider it as any disgrace to be van- quished, and he who is overcome sits down with as much indifference as if he had never entered the lists. Some of our people con- tended with them in both exercises, but were generally worsted ; except in a few instances, where, as Capt. Cook observes, *' it appeared, that the fear they were in of offending us, contributed more to the victor/ than the superiority of the person they engaged." On Thursday the 19th, Capt. Coo^ thought proper to mark ont his intended (presents of animals, which he designed to eave bebiod him. He tiuMrefore assembled AND ROUND THE WORLb. 469 the chiefs before our hou«o, and informed tlieiu oi his proposed distribntion before his departure. To Poulaho, tl»e king, he pre- sented an English. bull and a cow ; to Ma- reewatree a cape ram, and two ewes, and to Keenou a horse and a mare. Omiah was instructed to inform the chiefs, that no such animals existed within several months sail of their Island ; that we had brought them with much trouble and expence, for their use ; that, therefore, they ought to be care- ful, not to kill any of them till they had multiplied considerably ; and, finally, that they and their children ought to remember, that they had received them from the na- tives of Britain. Omiah also explained to tliein their respective uses, as far as his limit- ed knowledge would permit, for he was not well versed in such things. The Captain had intended to give oldf Toobou two or three goats ; but finding that chief, who liad not attended the meeting, though invit- ed, indifferent about them, he added them to the share of Poulaho. As the Captain intended, that the above presents should remain with the other cattle, till we were ready to sail, he desired each of the chiefs to tend a man or two, to look after their respec- tive animals, along with our people, in order tiia they mi^ht be made acquainted with the manner of our treating them. The king and Feenou did so ; but neither Mareewa- gee, nor any other person for him, took the least notice of the sheep afterwards. In- deed, it soon appeared, that some were dissatisfied with our distribution of the ani- mals ; for on the 20th, early in the morning, two of our Turkey-cocks, and one kid were missing. Our Commander being determin- ed to nave them restored, seized on three canoes that were along-side the ships : he then went on s)iore, and having found the king, his brother, Feenou, and some other chiefs, in our house, he immediately placed a guard over them, and intimated to them, that they must remain confined till not only the turkeys and kid, but the other articles of which we had been plundered, at diffe- rent times, were restored to us. On finding themselves prisoners, they concealed their fcelingSj as well a» thev could ; and sat down to drink kava, with an appearance of uncon- cern ; and assured the Captain, that the things in question should all be returned. Soon afterwards an axe, and an iron wedge were brought to us. In the mean time, some armed natives began to assemble be- hind the house, but they dispersed when a part of our guard marched against them ; and the chiefs, by the advice of the Captain, gave orders, that no more should 'appear. Upon being invited to dine with us on board, they readily consented. Some of them having afterwards objected to Poula- lio's going, he rose up immediately, and declared that he would be the first man. We all now repaired aboard, and the chiefs remained in the ships till four o'clock. They were then conducted by the Captain ashore ; and not long after their having- landed, the kid, and one of the ti rkeys were restored to us. On their promisirg that the other turkey should be brought back the next morning, both they and th: ;r canoes were released. The chiefs haviitg left us, we walked out, with Omiah in company, to observe how the natives in our neighbourams the square between the posts ; and fastened sticks across, from one post to another, at the dis- tance of every four feet, to prevent tiie posts from separating, by the weight of the inclos- ed yams, a* d also to ascentl by. As .soon as the yams had reached the summit of the first posts, they continued to fasten others to them, till each pile was thirty teet or more in height. On the top of one of tiie piles, they ijlaced two baked hogs ; and, on the top oi the other, a living one ; and another they tied by the legs half wav up. The facility and dispatch with which these two piles were raised, were very renmrkable. "Had our seamen," observes Capt. Cook, heen ordered to execute such a woik, they would have sworn, that it could not be per- formed without carpentei"s ; and the carpen- ters would have called to their aid a dozen difterent sorts of tools, and have expended, at lexist, a hundred weight of nails ; and, aAer all, it would have employed them as many days, as it did these people hours. Bat seamen, like most other amphibious animals, are always the most helpless on land." Having completed these two piles, *hey pccumulated some other heaps of yams, auu ^iso of bread-fruit, on each side of the area ; to which a turtle, and a great quan- tity of fish w ere added. The whole of tliis, witli some red feathers, a mat and a piece of v^lotb, composed the king's present to 2 Capt. Cook ; and Poulaho .iccmed to ha not a little proud at having exceeded, as h« really du\, Feenou's liberalitj^ at Hapaee. About one o'clock, the Mai, or dances, were begun, The fir-t very nearly resciii- bled*, what was performed on the openiiig- of Mareewagee's entertainment. The se* cond was conducted by youngs Toobou ; and in this four or five women were introduced, who equalled the men in the exactness and regularity of their motions. Near the end, the performers divided, in order to Ifavc room for two champions, who exercised their clubs. In the third dance, which was the last, two other men, with clubs" exhibit- ed their skill and activity. The dances were succeeded by boxing and wrestling ; and one man entered the Fists with a heavy club made of the stem of a cocoa-leaf but could meet with no opponent to engage him in so rou^h a diversion. Towards eveninsr, the bomai, or night dances began, in which the king himself, apparelled ui English manufacture, was a performer : but neither these, nor the dances in the day time, were so capital as those given by Feenou and Mareewagee. The Captain, in order to be present the whole time of tlie entertain- ment, dined on shore. Poulaho sat down by him, but would neither eat nor drijik, which was owing to the presence of a fe- male, who had been admitted, at his request, to the dining party, and who, as we were informed, was ot superior rank to himself This lady had no sooner dined than she walked up to the king, who applied his hands to her feet ; after which she retired. He immediately dipped his fingers into a ghiss of wine, and then all her attendant^ paid him obeisance. At his desire some oil our fire-works were played ofi^ in the even- ing ; but being damaged, they did not an- swer the expectations of the spectators. No more entertainments being expected on either side, most of the natives nad desert- ed us the day after Poulaho's haiva. Siill, however, we had thieves about us, and experienced continual instances oftheis depredations. Mr. Nelson beipg alone, on the hills and rocks, collecting- plants ao4 herbs, and at a cousidcrablf dislMiC| froiv the ships ders, wnc which tl finding h liim, strip which w Capt. Co the offenc be hoys, a of small embroil disputes, we were, make his to take 1( friendly m behaved generosity ships, who interior pai 22nd, in t two days, and necessi sides sever which the r from them^ journey, j wkely to when our p employed Cook, to cc ment they bow the afl^air, and i lay him un( morning, ai sothiit not remaining i tain wasmu Terence, an same. Uuc brine back ceeded in h; that no viol to oblige things. Tl nou came received fav e^< us with i two chiefs, ouMrved to AND ROUND THE WORLD. ' 491 the ships, was attacked by five or six Islan- ders, wiio first be^an by throwing stones, at which thev are very dexterous; and then finding he had no fire-arms, closed in with iiitn, stripped him of his clothes, and bag, which were all that he had about him. Capt. Cook complained to the king; but theoffenders, upon enquiry, being found to be boys, and the clothes, and bag of plants, uf small value, Mr. Nelson, unwilling to embroil the inhabitants in any more disputes, interceded with the Captain, as we were just upon our departure not to insike his loss au object of contention, but to take leave of the chiefs in the most friendly manner, who, upon the whole, had behaved with nncommon kindness and generosity. Some of the officers of both ships, who had made an excursion into the interior parts of the Island, returned on the 22nd, ill thp evening, after an absence of two days. They had taken their muskets and necessary ammunition with them, be- sides several small articles, the whole of which the natives had the dexterity to steal from them, in the course of their short ionrney. Inconvenient consequences were likely to have attended this affair ; for when our plundered travellers returned, they employed Omiah, without consulting Capt. Cook, to complain to the king of the treat- ment they had received. He, not knowing bow the Captain would proceed in this affair, and apprehendingthat he might again lay him under restraint, set oif early the next morning, and Feenou followed his example ; go that not a chief of any authority was now remaining in this neighbourhood. The Cap- tain was much offended at this officious inter- ference, and reprimanded Omiah for the same. Upon this, Omiah endeavoured to brine: hack his friend Feenou, and he suc- ceeded in his negotiation, by assuring him, that no violent measures would be pursued to oblige the natives to return the stolen things. Trusting to this declaration, Fee- nou came back in the evening, and was received favourably. Poulaho also hononr- txi us with his company the next day. The two chiefs, uppii this occasion, very justly observed to u^ that, whenever any of our 3 people wanted to tuke an excursion into the country, they ought to be made acquainted with it, that they might order proper penpl^ to attend them, to prevent such outrages. Though the Captain did not ofteruards endeavour to recover the articles taken iipoa this occasion, the whole of them were return- ed, through the interposition of Feenou, except one musket, and a few other tritles. By this time also, we recovered the tooU and other matters that had been stolen from our workmen. In a journal belonging to a person on board the Discovery, we find the following remark : " During our sta" here, more capital thefts were committe . and more Indians punished than in all iht Friendly Islands besides : one was punished with seventy-two lashes, for stealing only a knife ; another with thirty-six, for endea- vouring to carry off two or three drinking glasses; three were punished with three dozen each, for heaving stones at the wood- ers ; but, what was still more cruel, a man for attempting to carry off an axe, was ordered to have'his arm out to the hone ; which he bore williont complaining. It is not to be wondered, that after such wanton acts of cruelty, the inhabitants si onid grow outrageous ; and, though they did not break out into open acts of hostility, yet they watched every opportunity to be vexatious. This journalist cannot wa think speak 3m his knowledge, and must have been mis-informed ; for, in the first place, we bf g leave to observe, that such severe pntiish- inentsas three and six dozen lashes are very seldom inflicted on board a king's ship, and then only for enormous otJt^nce ; and, in the next place, the whole of the above memorandum contradicts all the most au- thentic accounts of the kind behaviour of the natives of the Friendly Isles, and like- wise the well known humanity of our irener- ous commancler. We think it our duty to give a faithful detail of facts and occurren- ces, from the best authorities ; nor is it less incumbent on us, to correct all errors and mistakes that may come under our observ.i- tion : these two obligations have hitherto been the objects of onr careful attention : and we hope, in the opinion of our fritndi m iffli.llft' fill 4d2 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, and subscribers, we sha.1 be found to have falfiiied them witli a scrupulous punctu- ality. Wednesday the 3dth, two boats that had been sent in search of a commodious chan- nel to sea, returned. Our people reported, that the channel to the north, through which we came in, was imminently dangerous, being full of coral-rocks ; but that there was a good passage to the eastward, though contracted, in one place, by the small Is- lands ; consequently a westerly wind would be necessary to get through it. The ships Seeing now completely stowed, having wood And water as much as they could make room for, with hogs and bread-fruit in abundance, in short;every' thing &^y could contain, or the crews desire, *»raers were given to prepare for sailing ; and we intend- ed to visit the celebrated little Island of Middleburgh, of which former voyagers have gif en a most flattering description : but as an eclipse of the sun was expected to be visible on the fifth of next month, the Captain determined to stay till that time, in order to observe it. Having now some days of leisure before we set sail, a party of us, accompanied by Poulaho, set out the next morning, being Thursday the 'iCth, in a boat for Mooa, a small village, where most of the great chiefs usually reside. Rowing up the inlet, we saw fourteen canoes fishing in company, in one of which was Poulaho's fion ; they had taken some fine mullets, and put a dozen of them into our boat. In each canoe was a triangular net, extended be- tween two poles, at the lo\\ er end whereof was a cod to receive and secure the fish. They shewed us their method oi fishing, which appeared to be an effectual one. A shoal of nsh was supposed to be upon one of the banks, which they instantly enclosed in a long net like our seine. This the fishermen, one getting into the water out of each boat, surrounded with the triangular nets in their hands, with /hich they scooped the fish out of the seine, or caught them as they attempted to leap over it. Taking leave of the prince and his fishing party, we rowed to the bottom of the bay, and landed where we had done before, Iwnen we went to visit Mareewagee. As soon as we land- ed, the king desired Omiah to tell me, that I need be under no apprehension about- thf boat, or any thing in her, for thu' not a single article would be touched, or purloin- ed by any one of his people, which we found atterwards to be true. We were imme- diately conducted to one of Poulaho's hou- ses, which, though tolerably large, seemed to be his private place of residence, and is situated within a plantation. The kino- seated himself at one end of the house, and his visitants sat down in a semi-circle at the other end. A bowl of kava was speedily prepared, and directions were given to bake some yams. While these were getting ready, some of us, together with a few of the king's attendants, and Omiah as interpreter, walk, ed out to take a view of a Fiatooka, op bu- rying-place, at a small distance from the habitation. It belonged to the king, and consisted of three pretty large houses; situated on a rising ground, with a small one not far off, all standing in a line length- wise. The largest of the three was the midr'.le house, which was placed in an ob- long square, twentv-four paces by twenty- eight, and elevated about three feet. lUe other houses were placed on little mounts. On the floors of these houses, as also on the tops of the mounts, were fine loose pebbles; and the whole was enclosed by larsje flat stones of coral-rock. One of the buildings was open on one side, and two wooden busts of meh, rudely carved, >vere within it. We enquired of the natives who follow- ed us (but were not permitted te enter here) what these images were ? Who informed us they were intend^'d tor meinorials of some chiefs who had b'ien buried in that place, and not meant as the representatives of any deity. Such monumental edifices, it is pre- sumed, are seldom raised ; for these appear- ed to have been erected many ages. We were iriformed, that dead bodies had been buried in each of these houses, but no trace* of them were to be seen. The carved head of an» Otaheite canoe, which had been driven'ashore on their coast, was deposited in one of them. At the foot 4f the rising ground was a grass-plot, whereon difJereot AND ROUND THE WORLD. 49Z Urft trees were planted ; among- which were several large ones, called Etoa. They greatly resemble the cypress, and have a solemn effect. A row of low palms was also planted near one of the h«uses. After having refreshed ourselves with some provi- iions, which we had brought from our ships, we took a pretty large circuit into the coun- try, attended by one of the king's ministers, w 10 would not suffer any of the rabble to fo low us, and obliged those whom we met in our excursion, to sit down while we were passing ; a mark of respect shewn only to their sovereigns. In our progress we observ- ed tiie greatest part of the country to be cultivated ; bein^ planted with various kinds of productions, and most of these plantations were enclosed with fiances. It 1$ true, some spots were fJllow ; there were »lso others that remained in a state of na- ture ; and, yet even these last were of pub- lic utility, in affording the natives timber, as they were (generally covered with trees. We saw likewise, in our walk, several large uninhabited Islands (belonging as we were told, to the king) many public roads, and abundance of foot-paths leading to every part of the Island. Hence travelling was rendered easy and pleasant : but it is remark- able, that when we were on the most elevated spots of ground, one hundred feet at least, above the level of the sea, we often met with the same coral rock found on the shore, projecting above the surface ; and having all those inequalities, usually seen in rooks that lie within the wash of the tide ; and yet, those very spots, almost wholly destitute of soil, were covered with luxu- riant vegetation. Our guide conducted us to several little pools, and to some springs of wa-ter ; but in general, thev were either stinking or brackish ; though thought by the natives to be excellent. The former were mostly inland, and the latter near the shore of the bay, and below high water mark ; so that only when the tide was out tolerable water cou4d be taken up fVom them. In the dusk of the evening we returned from our walk, and found our supper ready. It eonsiflted offish, yams, and a baked hog-, in which all the culinary arts had been dis- played. There being nothing to amuse us after supper, we lay doM n to sleep, accord- ing to the custom of th« country, on mats spread upon the floor, and had a covering of cloth. The king, who had made himseu very happy with some of our wine and brandy, slept in the house, as did many others of the natives. Before day-break, they all rose, and entered into conversation by moon-light. As soon as it was day, they dispersed different ways ; but it was not long before they all returned, accompanied by several of their countrymen. While they were preparing a bowl of kava, Capt. Cook went to pay a visit to Toobou, Capt. Furneaux's friend, who had a house not far distant, which, for sizo and neatness was hardly exceeded in the place. Here also we found a company preparing a morning: draught. The chief made a present to tlis Captain of a live hog, and one that was baked ; also a quantity of yams, and a large niece of cloth. When we returned to the king, we found him and his attendants drinking the second bowl of kava. That bein^ emptied, he informed Oiniah, that he was immediately going to perform a nloum- ing ceremonv, called Tooge, in memory of a son who had been dead some time, and desired us to accompany him. Naturally^ expecting to see somewhat new and curious, we readily complied with his request. The first thing the king did, was to step out of the house, attended by two old women, and put on a new cloathing, over whicli was placed an old ragged mat, that might have served his great grandfather upon a similar occasion. His attendants were habited in the same manner, excepting that, in point of antiquity, none of their mats could vie with that of their master. Thus equipped, we inarched off, preceded by eight or ten persons in the same uniform, each of them having likewise a green bough about his neck. Poulaho held his bougti in bis hand till he approached the place of rendezvous, when he also put it round his neck. We now entered a small inclosure, wherein was a neat house, and a man sitting before it. As the company entered, they took the ,1 m IP. 404 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, branches from their necks, and threw them nway. The kiiitf Kcated himself, and the rest of his people sat before him in th"? usual manner. By the arrival of other |Hjrsons, the circle increased to upwards of nn hundred, principally old men, all dressed in the manner above described. The com- |mii^ bein^ assembled, a large root of kava was produced by one of the king's servants, from whence was extracted liquor sufficient to fill a capacious bowl, that would con- tain, at least, five gallons. Many persons DOW beoran to chew the root, and the bowl Mas filled up to the brim. Others were employed in making drinking-cups of plantain leaves. The first cup that was filled, being presented to the king, he ordered it to be given to another person : the second was also brought to him, and he drank it ; the third was offered to Capt. Cook. Afterwards several cups were given to others, till the whole of the liquor was exhausted; and, though not half the compa- ny purtouk of it, no one appeared in the least dissatisfied. Each cup as it was emp- tied, was thrown upon the ground, whence it was taken up, and carried to be filled again. All this time the chief, and his whole circle, sat with a great deal of gravity, seldom speaking a word to each other. All this while we were in expectation of seeing the mourning ceremony begin, when, to our great surprize, as soon as the kava was drank ojit, they all rose up and dispersed ; Poulaho, at the same time, informed us, he was ready to attend us to the ships. The kava is a species of pepper, branching considerably, with large heart-shaped leaves and jointed stalks. The natives esteem it a valuable article, taking great care to defend the young plants from injury, which they generally set about their houses. They do not often exceed, when full grown, the height of a man, though we have seen some much higher. The root is the only part used at these Islands, from whence their favourite potati'm is e?ttracted. The quantity put into each cup is a'bout a quar- ter of a pint. It has nu perceptible effect on these people who use it so frepuently ; but ton some of ours it opperated like our spirits, occasioning intoxication, or rather stupefaction. The mourning ceremony Ue- ing over, to our no siiiall ciisappointment, wi: 'eft Mooa, 2. id set out on our return to th'^ ships, liowing down the inlet vve met witli two canoes ret.*v«iing from fishing. Poulaho ordered them to anproach liimj and took from then* every fish and sliejl*. He afterwards stopped two other canoes, searched them, and found nothinv:. lie gave us some of the fish, and the rest were sold by his servant on board the sliip. Proceeding down the inlet, we overtook a large sailii.;;^ canoe, when every person on board her sat down till we had passed ; even the man who steered, though lie could not possibly manage the helm, but in a stand. ing posture. Having been informed hy Puii- laho and others, tbat there was some good water at Onevy, a small Island, about a league from the mouth of the inlet, we laud- ed there, but found it extremely brackish. The Island is quite in its natural only frequented as a fishing-pl nearly the same productions ston's Island. When we reac^v. and got on board, we were infori.ntd, tijat every thing had continued quiet dUrittg our absence ; not a single theft having been committed ; of which Feenou, and Fultalai- he, the king's brother, who hud und r- taken the management of his countryn en, during our absence, boasted not a little. This evinces what power the chiefs have, when they . are disposed to execute it; which is not often to be expected ; for what- ever was stolen from us, was generally conveyed to them. But the good conduct of the natives was of short duration, for, Satuday the 28th, six of them assaulted some of our people, who were sawing planks; inconsequence of which, they were fired at by ourrentry : one of them was supposed to be wounded, and three were made prisoners. The latter were confined till night, when they were punished, and set at liberty. After this their behaviour was very , / AND ROUND THE WORLD. 4Qb were not mistaken in onr conjecture, for Mr. with a knife made of split bamboo. Tliough Kin^ .>ihI Mr. Anderson, in an excursion tliey the weight was at least, nearly .suven stont^, took idtothe country, met with the very man, the whole was placed before them ; when aiil loimd indubitable marks of his having they took a small part, and desired the bt<'a wounded with a musket ball. Nothing rest might be distributed among the peopU worthy of notice hanpened at the ships for sitting round. Futtataihe could hardly be two diiys , we shall therefor(? till up that prevailed upon to eat a morsel. Dinner interval with an account of Mr. Anderson's being endea, we went with him, and his excursion into the country, just mentioned, attendants, to the spot where Poulaho's On Monday the 30th, Mr. King and Mr. mourning ceremony was performed. They Anderson accompanied Futtafaihe as vi- saw nothing but a kind of continuation of sitors to his house, which is not fur from the same solemn rites, by way of condo- that of his brother Poulaho, at Mooa. Soon lence. Upon enquiring into the reason of after they arrived a good sized hog was kill- this transaction, they were informed, that if ed, which was etfected by repeated strokes was in memory of a chief who had loi'^- upim the head. The hair was then curiously since died at Vavaoo ; that they liad prao- sor.iped off with the sharp edge of pieces tised it ever since, and .should continue to of biunboo, and the entrails taken out by do so for a considerable length of time to the same simple instrument. Previous to come. In the evening, they were eu'tertain- this an oven had been prepared, which was ed with a pig for supper, dressed like the a large hole dug in the earth, the bottom of hog, and, as that, acompanied with yams which was covered with stones, about the and cocoa-nuts. When .supper was over, a size of a man's tist, and made red liot by large quantity of cloth was brought for them kindling a fire over them : they then wraii- to sleep on ; but they were disturbed in ned some of those stones in leaves of the their repose, by a singular piece of luxury, Dread-fruit tree, with which they filled the with which men of consequence in this hog's belly ; stuffing in a quantity of leaves. Island indulge themselves, namely, that of ana a plug of the same kind, to prevent being thumped or patted, till and while they their falling out. This being done, the are asleep. Two women, who sat by Futta- carcase was placed upon some sticks laid faihe, performed this office, which they call across the stones, and covered with plantain- tooce tooge, by striking his body and legs leaves. The earth was afterwards dug up Avith both fists, till he fell asleep, and with all round ; and the oven being thus eltec- some intervals, continued it the whole night. tually closed, the operation of baking re- If the person is asleep, they abate a little of quired no farther aid. While this was doing, the strength and briskness of the beating : our gentlemen amused themselves by walk- but if they observe the least appearance of ing. about the country, but saw nothing his awaking, they resume it. In the morn- remarkable, except a I" iatooki, about thirty ing they were informed that Futtafaihe's 'eet high. At a small distance therefrom, women relieved each other, and went alter- were several Etooa-trees, whereon they saw nately to sleep. Such a practice as this, in a great number of Ternate-bats, making a any other country, would be supposed to be snost disagreeable noize. Not having their m. 'Ihp boogo, a species of the tig, with i.arrow pointed leaves, is the largest sized tree upon the Island ; and the most common bushes, and small trees, especially toward the sea, are the pandamus, the faitanoo, several sorts of the hibiscus, and a few otl^ers. A coral rock aojicars to be the basis of tiie Island, whicn is the only kind of soil that presents itself on the shore ; nor did we see the least appearance of any other stone, exce[)t a few siccs, the coral projects above the cnt sorts; bread-fruit, two kinds of frnit surface, the soil is, in most parts, of a con- found at Otaheit^, and known there undet sitierable depth. In those that are unculti" vated, it is, commonly, of a loose black colour ; produced, seeminffly, from rotten vpJietables : underneath which, mtiy be a clayey stratum ; for a soil of that kind is the names of jambu and eevee ; the latter a kind of phiml? ; and vast numbers of shad- docks, which, however, are found as often in a natural state, as planted. The roots are yams, of which are two sorts ; one black* often seen both in the low, and in the rising and so large, that it often weighs twenty or grounds ; but especially in several places thirty pounds ; the other white and long, towards the shore, where it is of any height ; seldom weighing a pound. Here is a large and when broken off, appears sometinies root, called kappe ; one, not unlike our of a reddish, though oftener of a brownish white potatoes, called mawhaha ; the talo, yellow colour, and of a pretty stiff consist- or coccos of other places : and another ence. Where the shore is low, the soil is named jeejee. Besides vast numbers of commonly sandy, or rather composed of cocoa-nut trees, here are three other sorts of coral dust ; which however yields bushes palms, two of which are very scarce. One growini? with great luxuriance; and is of them is called beeoo ; which grows almost sometines planted, not unsuccessfully, by as high as the cocoa tree, has very large the natives. The climate of Tongataboo, leaves plaited like a fan, and clusters or from the situation towards the tropic, is hunches of globular nuts, not larger than a mere variable, than in countries nearer to small pistol ball, growing amongst the the line, though, perhaps, that might be branches, with a very hard kernel, whioh is owing to 'ihe season of the year, whicli was sometimes eaten< The other is a kind of now the winter solstice. The winds are^ cabbage tree, not distinguishable from the for the most part, from some point between S. and E. and, when moderate, are com- monly attended with fine weather. When they blow fresher, the weather is often cloudy, though open ; and in such cases, there is frequently rain. The w-'d some- times veers to the N. E. N. N. 1.. >' even N. N. W. but never lasts long, nor blows strong from thence, though it is commonh cocoa, but by being rather thicker, arid by having its leaves more ragged. It bias a cabbage three or four feet long ; at the top of which are the leaves, and at the bottom the fruit, which is scarcely two inches long, resemblinu: an oblong cocoa-nut, with an insipid tenacious kernel, called by the latives, neeoogoola, or red c(/coa-nut, as it assumes a reddish cast when rijie. The accompanied by heavy rain, and close sultry third sort i-- called ongo, and much conuno weather. The quick succession of vegeta- bles has been already mentioned ; but it is not certain that the changes of weather, by which it is brou'2fht about, are considerable enough to make them perceptible to the natives as to their method of life, or rather that they should be very sensible of the dif- eat. In tin fe^'nt seasons. This, perhaps, may be suerar-cnn' er, being generally found planted about the Fiatookas. It t Idom grows higher than five feet, thougtt sometimes to eight ; and has a vast number of oval compressed nuts, as large rsa pippin, sticking immediately to the trunk, among the leaves, which are not Island is plenty of excellent which is cultivated ; gourds. interred from the state of their vegetable bamboo, itrmeric, and a species of fig, productions, which are never so much affect- about the size of a sinitll chevry, called matte, ed, with respect to the foliaee, as to shed which though wild is sometimes eaten, tljatall at once ; for every leaf is succeeded The catalogue of uncultivated plants is too by another, as fast a< it fa'ds ; which causes large to be enumerated. Besides the pem- tlint appearance of universal and continual phis, decaspernum, mallococca, maha« and spring found here. some other new genera, there are a few more The principal of the cultivated fruits are that escaped Dr Forster's curious eye : but, plantains, of which they hmye fifteen differ* perbap»» the different seasons of the year<» s Will I ■>i* i'l ' . 1 600 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, and his short stay, did not give him an o|rj>artunity to notice them : in onr longer stay here, not more than a fourth part of the trees and plants were in flower ; a cir- cumstance absolutely necessary, to enable one to distinguish the various kinds. In this Island are no otiier qnadrnpcds but ho^'s, some dogs, and a i'ew rats. Fowls, which are of a large breed, are domesticated here. Of the birds are parrots, somewhat smaller than the common arrey ones, having an indifferent green on the back and wing^i the tail blneisli, and the rest of a sooty or chocolate brown ; parroquets not larger than a sparrow, of a fine yellowish green, with bright azure on the crown of the head, and the throat and belly red ; besides ano- Slier sort as large as a dove, with a blue crown and thiglis, the throat and under part of the head crimson, as also part of the belly, and the rest a beautiful green. Here are owls, about the size of our common ones, but of a much finer plumage ; cuckoos mentioned at Palmerston's Isle ; king-fishers, about the size of a thrush, of a greenish blue, with a white ring about the neck ; and a bird of the thrush kind, abnost as big, of a dull green colour, with two yellow wattles at the base of the bill, which is the only singing one we herad at this place ; but it compen- sates a good deal for the want of our songsters by the strength and rnelody of its notes, which filfthe woods at dawn, in the evening, and at the breaking up of bad weather. The other land-birds are rails, as large as a pigeon, of a variegated grey colour, with a rusty neck ; a black sort with red eyes, not larger than a lark ; voilet-coloured coots, with bald red crowns two sortsoffly^^atchers ; a very small swallow ; and three sorts of pigeons; one of which is the size of the co'.nmoi^ sort, of a light green on the back and wings, wjili a red forehead ; and ano- ther, somewhat less, of a purple brown, but whitish underneath. Of water-fowl, and such as frequent the sea, are the ducks seen at Annainookrt, thted it, but returned the glass. Hav- ing been on board little more than an hour, he was desirous of taking leave, and pointed to a Little Island, to which he gave the Captain a very pressing invitation to accom- pany him, but as he had other entertain- ments in view, on shore, that could not be complied with. This venerable person was about si< feet, three inches high, finely l)ioportioned, and had a commanding air, that was both affable and grarefnl. We were not favoured with a visit, nor did this ureat man come at any time on board the Resolution. Though we were now ready to sail, we had not snfficient day-light to * .1 through the narrows; the morning flodd falling out too early, and the evening flood too late. We were therefore under a i!e('es?iiy of waiting two or three days, un- loss wc should be fortnnate enough to have a leading wind. This delay 'jaye us an apportiinity to be present at a public solem- iiity, to whirh the king had invited ns, who taid it wo\i!d be performed in a day or t^uj. Accordingly, he and all the people of consequence, repaired tliis day to Mooa, where the solemnity was to be ex- hibited. On Tuesday the 8th, a party of us follow- ed them. Poulaho now informed us, that his son was to be initiated into certain pri» vileges ; one of which was, that of eating with his father; an honour hehad not hither- to enjoyed. About eight o'clock in the morning, we arrived at Mooa, where we found the king, with a number of attend- ants .sitting^ before him, within a small dirty enclosure. They were, as usual, busied in preparing a bowl of kava. As this was not liqour for us, we went. to pay a visit to some of our friends, and to observe what preparations were making for the ceremony, which was soon expected to begin. About ten o'clock, the people assembled in a large area before the malaee, or great house. At the end of a road, opening into this area, stood several men with spears and clubs, reciting incessantly short sentences, in mournful accents, which conveyed an idea of distress. This was continued about an hour ; during which time, many people came down the road, each having a yam tied to the middle of a pole, which they laid down before those who continued re- peating the sentences. At length, the kiwg- and prince arrived, and seated themsel.ves upon the area ; and we were requested to sit dovyn by them, to take off our hats, and to untie our hair. The bearers of the yams having all entered, eacjj pole was taken up between two men, who carried it over tlieir shonldeis. They then formed themselve.$ into companies, of ten or fwt.lve each, and marched across the place, with a rapid pace, each company headed by a man who had a club or s|)ear, anoi*tunity of carryim^ his design into execution, in order to shake on these three fellows, he returned to the Malaee, where he had pavted from the king, and afterwards made a second elope- ment , but he instantly met with the same men, who had doubtless received instruc- tions to watch him. However, the Captain paid no attention to them, but piH)eeedc(l onward till he came within sight of the king's principal Fiatooka, or Morai ; before whicli a great number of people were sitting, bein<) those whom he had just seen before pass by the Morai, from whence this was but a little distant. Perceiving, while he was consider- ing what he should do, that he could ob- serve the proceeding of this company from the king's plantation, he repaired thither, accompanied by several of his people. The number of persons at the Fiatooka continu- ed increasing for som.e time ; and at length, they quitted their sitting posture, and march- ed off in procession, lliey walked in pairs, every pair carrying between them, one of the small poles on their shoulders. We were informed, that the small pieces of sticks, fastened to the poles, were yams , it is therefore probable, that they were meant to represent that root emblematically. The hindmost man of each couple placed one of his hands to the middle of the pole, as if it were not strong enough to cairy tlie weight that hung upon it, and under which they all seemed to oend as they proceeded. This procession consisted of one hundred and eight pairs, chiefly men of rank. Hav- ing seen them all pass, we repaiied to Pou* laho's house, and saw him going out. We were not permitted to follow him ; but were immediately conducted to the place allotted to us, behind a fence adjoining to the area of the Fiatooka, where the yams had been deposited in the morning. When arrived at our station, we saw two or three hundred persons sitting on the graiSi near the end of the a ope&icg ioto AND ROUND THE WORLD. 503 the area of the Morai ; and others were continually joining them. At length, arrived a few men, each carrying some small poles and branches,'or loaves of the cocoa-nut tree. As soon as tliey appeared, an old man seated himself in the road ; and pronounced a long oration in a serious majestic tone. He then retired, and the others advanced to tlirt middle of the area, began to erect a small shed or hut ; employing, for that pur- pose, the materials already mentioned. Their work being finished, they all squatted down for a moment before it, then rose up, aiid joined the rest of the company. Poula- lio's son arrived soon after, preceded by lour or five male attendants. After them appeared about twelve or fourteen women otthe first rank, advancing slowly in piiirs, each pair carrying between them a narrow piece of white cloth, about two or three yards in length. They approached the prince, squatted down before him, and wr'^r*- ped some of the pieces of cloth round nsc body ; they then rose up, and retired in the same order, to some distance on his left, where they seated themselves. Poulaho now made his appearance, preceded by four men, walking two and two abreast, and sat down on his son's left hand, at a small dis- tance from him. The young prince then quitted his first position, and seated himself nnder the shed, with his attendants ; many others placing themselves on the grass be- fore this royal canopy. The prince sat facing the people, with his back to the Mo- ria. Three companies of about ten or a dozen men in each, started up from among the crowd, soon after each other, and, run- ning hastily to the 0[)posite side, sat down tor a few seconds; and then returned, in the satne manner, to their former stations. To them succeeded two men, each having a small green branch in his lumd, who rose and advanced' towards the prince, sitting down for a few minutes, three different times, as they approached ; and retired in the lame manner, inclining their branches to each other as they sat. Afterwards two others repeated the same ceremony. The grand procession, which marched from the other Morai, now began to con»e in. As 7 they entered the area, they proceeded to the right of the shed, and, havin-g prostrated themselves on the grass, deposited their pre* tended heavy burdens, (the poles) and faced round to the prince. They then rose up, and retired in the same order, closing their hands with the most serious aspect, and seated themselves along the front of the area. While this numerous band were en- tering, and depositing their poles, three men, who sat with . the prince, continued Ijronouncing separate sentences, in a mourn- ful melancholy tone. A profound silence now ensued for a short time, after which a man who sat in the front of the urea, began a kind of oration, during which, at several different times, he broke ojie of the poles which had been brouyht in. Having, con- cluded his oration, the people sitting beiore the shed, separated, to make a lane, through which the prince and his attendants passedi and the assembly closed. Satisfied with what we had already seen, someof our party now returned to the ships; but Capt. Cook, and some more of the officers, remained at JVlooa, to see the con- clusion of the solemnity, which was not to be till the day following. The small poles, which had been brought by those who walked in procession, being left on the ground, after the crowd had dispersed, the Captain examined, and found that, to the middle of each, two or three small sticks were tied, as has been related. They were probably intended as only artificial repre- sentations of small yams. Our supper, con- sisting offish and yams, wasgotieady about seven o'clock. The king supped with us, and drank so freely of brand> and water, that he retired to bed with a sufiicient dose. We continued the whole night in the same house with him and his attendants. About one or two o'clock in the morning, on Wed- nesday, the 9th, they waked, conversed for about an hour, and then went to sleep again. All except Poulaho, rose at break of day ; soon after which, a woman, one of those who generally attended upon the king, came in, and sitting down by him, immediately began the sameoperntion that had been prac- tised upon Futtafaihe, tapping, or beating / * ':, ' «. ^^^# MM 604 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, gently, ivith her clenched fists, on his thighs : but this, instead of promoting repose, had the contrary effect, and he awoke. Capt. Cook and Omiah paid now a visit to (he prince, who had parted from us early in the preceding evening : for he did not lodge with the king, but in apartments of his own, at some distance from his father's house. We found him with a circle of youths, about his own age, sitting before nim ; also an old man and woman. There were otherc, of both sexes, employed about their necessary affairs, who probably belong- ed to his household. We now returned to the king, who had a crowded I^-vee before h'iTtf, consisting principally of eld men. While a bowl of kava was preparing, a baked hog and yams, smoking hot, were introduced ; the greatest part of which fell to our share ; for these people, especially the kava drinkers, eat very liftle in the morn- ing. We afterwards walked out, and visit- ed several other chiefs, all of whom were taking their morning draught, or had alrea- dy taken it. Rt^turning to the king, we found him Hsleep in a retired hut, with two women patting hitn. About e'even o'clock he made his appearance among us, partook of some fish ami yams, and again lay down to sleep. We now left him, and waited on the pruice, with a present ot'cloth, beads and nther articles. There was a sufiicieiit quan- tity of cloth to make him a complete suit, and he was immediately clad in his ne.w habiliments. Proud of his dress, he first went to exhibit himself to his father, and then conducte07 here fore, abandoned the design lie had formed, of cnniinft" to anchor, when we >veie through the narrows, and afterwards of inaiiing" an excursion to see tlie funeral. He ratlier chose to be absent from that ceremony, than to leave the ships in so dangerous a sit\iation. We fdied to wind- ward, between the two tides, till it was near hii?h water, without either ^ainini? or losinj? an inch, when we si;ddenly got into the influence of the eastern tide, where we expected the ebb to run strongly in our favour. It proved, however, very inconsi- derable : at any other time it would not liave been noticed ; but by this circumstauce we were led to conclude, that most oftlje water, which flows into the lagoon, comes from theN. W. and returns the same way. Convinced that we could uut get to sea before it was dark, we cast anchor under the shore of Tongatalmo, in forty-five fathoms water. The Discovery dropped her anchor under onr stern ; but drove off the bank before the anchor took hold, and did not recover it till near midnight. On Friday, the lltli, near noon, we weisjhed and plied to the eastward. At ten o'clock P. M. we wea- thered the east end of the Island, and stretch- ed away for Middleburgh, which the inha- hitants call Eooa, or Ea-oowhe. We anchor- nboiit eight o'clock A. M. of the 12th, on the S. W. side of the Island, in forty fathoms water, over a bottom of sand, interspersed with coral rocks; the extremes of the Island, extending from N. 40 deg. E. to S. 22 deg. W. the high land of Eooa, S. 45 de^. E, and Tongataboo, from N. 70 ileis. W. to N. 19 deg. W. distant about half a mile from the shore ; being nearly the same place where Capt. Cook took his station in 1773, angs upon it, at present, it seemed to be a fitter place for feeding sheep than Tongataboo. While we lay at anchor, the Island of Eooa, or Middleburgh, had a very different aspect from any one that we had lately seen, and and formed a most beautii'ul landscape m 508 vovvr.r: TOWAuns THE Noiixri pole, It is the higlio^t of any uc lind seen siiire we we had left New Zealand, and from its .sutn- init, which appears to he almost ilat, de(;lines vnadually towards the sea. The other Isles, >\ hitii form this cluster, being lt;vel, the eye cannot discover any thing except the trees that cover them : but here the land, rising jfently upwards, presents an extensive pros- pect, where groves, in beautiful disorder, are interspersed at irregular distances. Near tlie shore, it is quite shad;' with a variety of trees, among which are placed the habita- tions of the natives, and to the ri^ht of our station, was one of the most extensive groves ofcocoa-palms that we had ever seen. Sunday, the 13th, a party of us, in the afternoon, ascended to the liighest part of the Island, a little to the right of our ships, to have a perfect view of the country. Hav- ving advanced about halfway up, we crossed a deep valley, the bottom and sides of which were covered with trees. We found plenty of coral till we approached the sum- mits of the highest hills: the soil near the top, is in general, a. reddish clay, which in many places is very deep. On the most elevated part of the Island, we saw a reund platform, supported by a wall of coral stones, bur guides informed us, that this mount had been erected by command of their chief ; and the principal people sometimes resort- ed there to drink kava. They called it Etchee, by which name an erection was distinguished which we had seeii at Tongataboo. At a small distance fl'om it, was a spring of most excellent water; and, about a mile lower down, a stream, which we were told, ran into the sea, when the rains are copious. We also discovered water in several small holes, and suppose that plenty might be found by digging. From this elevation we had a complete view of the whole Island, except a small part to the south. The S. E. side, from which the liills we were now u|>on are not far distant, rises with great inequalities, immediately from the sea ; so that the plains and meadows lie all on the N' W. side ; which being adorned with tufts of trees, intermixed with plantations, form a most delightful landscape in every point of view. While the Captain was snrveyJHp; this enrhanling prospect, he enjoyed the pleasin<4' idea, that some hitiire navigators nii^ht, troin the sau^o eminence behold those nuadows st«»nked with tattle, brought by the ships of Eiighind ; anective places. At length the remainder of the clothes were brought in, but navmg been torn olf'the man's back by pieces, they were not thought worth carrying on board. Taoofa shared ftie present he had received, with three or four other chiefs, reserving only a small part for himself. This donation so far exceeded their expectation, that a venerable old man told the Captain, they were not deserving of it, considering how little he had received' from them, and the ill treatment Mr. Collet had met with. Capt. Cook continued with them, till they had emptied their bowl of kava ; and then, after paying for the hou, which he had takeu the day before, returned on board, in company with Taoofa, and one ofPoulaho's servants, by whom he .sent a piece of bar iron, as a parting uruk of I I. />■ ' I It::!! T ■ - 610 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, rsteem for that chief. This was as valuable a prfs<>iit as any the Captain could make. Orclci s had been given the proceeding day tnr sailing, and Otaheite Was appointed our place of rendezvous, in case of separation. U'e had now been more than two months iuijiroving our live stock, wooding, watering, repairing- our sliips, and laying in fresh pro- visions from these Friendly Islands. The crews of both sliips received these orders with alacrity ; for though they wanted for nothinu:, yet they longed to be at Otaheite, where some of them had formed conneclions that were dear to them, and where those, who hud tain had sent oi] his j)iesent by Poulaho's servant, we weigherovisions to last us in our passage to Otahei>i>\ Besides Taoofa's present we received a largt quantity of yams, &c. at Eooa, in exchange for nails ; and added considerably to our supply oi hogs. Finding we were determined not to return, these people left us in the eveninrmeelago. We now sferdam, which is the ciipital, and seat of iiiocfed with our proposed observations. government. From the b^jst information we 1 tie hestarticlesfor traffic in these Islands, could obtain, this cluster of islands is very are iron and iron tools. Axes, hatchets, nails extensive. One ofthe natives enumerated one ;illsizes, knives, rasps, and tiles, are much liiuidred and fifty Islands; and Mr. Anderson „,..„.ided. Red cloth, white and coloured procured the names of all of them; from ijiieii. looking-glasses and beads, are also in their communications the following list was ffieal estimation, but ofthe latter, those that made. They wereenuuieratedbytheinhabit- aie blue, ihe natives prefer to others, particu- ants of AnnainooUa, Ilapaee, and Tongafa- arly to the white ones. A hog might, at any bru) : and may serveasa ground-work ft)r the (Iciiiai \'avaoo (joot'oo y the Natives as Large Ones. Kovooeea Kopao<) Taknunove Oloo Loubatta l*ij|)[>ataia Leshainiia Manooka Tootooeela Kogoopoloo eiai- voo Konagi Kofbona Kolaiva Komoarra Koniotte Kotoobort Kongaiarahoi Oowaia Feejee Neuafo liiiit, are inferior in (juality to the same Tafeedoowaia Ilavaeeke articles at Otaheite. The productions and Kongaireekee supplies of these Islands are yams, bread- A LIST of the Smaller Friendly Isles. fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, sugar-canes, hogs, lowls, fish, and, in general, all such as are Latte to be met with at Otaheite, or any of the Ro'oa Society Islands. But good water, which Tattahoi Mafanna Koliooa Tabanna Motoolia Looakabba is true, be found in all of them, but not to Loogoobahau-Looamoggo serve the purposes of navigators ; for either ga ships in long voyages stand much in need ot, Tcofagga is scarce at the' Friendly Isles. It may, it Fonooalaiee Gowakka Vainiou, that they must be all larger than that we heard of in this neigbboui hood, an- Annamooka, (or Rotterdam) which those Hamoa, Vavaoo, and Feejee ; each of vvhicli from whom we had our information, ranked is larger than Tongataboo ; hut it (loes among the smailerlslands in the second list, not appear that any European has ever \et Some, or indeed, several of the latter are seen one of them. Hamoa lies two days mere spots, without inhaliitants. But it sail N. AV. from Vavaoo. It is said to be nuist be left to future navigators, to intro- the largest of all their Islands; affords liai- duce into the ciiarts of this part of the great hours, with good water, and produces, in Southern Pacific Ocean, the exact situation abundance, all the refreshments that are and size of near one hundreil more Island, in found at the places we visited. Poulaho this neighbourhood, according to the testi- frequently resides upon this Island; audits mony ofour friends, which we had not an natives are in high estimation at Tongataboo. opportunity to explore. Tasman saw eigh- According to the united testimony of all our teen or twenty of these small Islands, every friends at this place, Vavaoo exceeds tlie size one of which was encircled with sands, of their own Island, and has high nK)unted the least doubt, that Prince William's the Captain, by repKesenting it to be very Islands, discovered, and so named by Tas- inconsiderable, and without a single good man, are included in the foregoing list : for harbour: but Poulaho, the king, gave us to while we lay at Hapaee, one of the natives understand afterward, that it isalarge Island, ^ told us, that three or foiu* days sail from and not only produces evt^ry thing in common thence to the N. W. there is a cluster of with Tongataboo, but has peculiar advantages Islands, consisiing of more than forty; and ofposjiessingseveralstreamsoffresh water,and this situation corresponds very well with also an excellent harbour. Poulaho offered that assigned, in the accounts of Tasman's to attend the Captain to Vavaoo, saying, that V'>yage, to his Prince William's Islands, if hedid not find every thing aareeingwith his Ceppel's and Boscaweu's Isles, discovered representation, he might kill him. We gav« 8 AND ROUND THE WORLD. 5/0 lar- in are alio )d its JOO. OtU" size lins. Voiii aged very ooil IS to and, mon tages full credit to iTie truth of liis jiitelligence, and were satisfied that Feenou, from some private view, endeavoured to impose upon us B fiction. Feejee lies in th« direction of N. W. by W. about three days sail, from Tongataboo, The natives in this part of the world have no other method of discovering the distance from Island to Island, but by ^nfjitioning: the time required for the voyage in one of their canoes. In order to ascertain this with some precision, Captiun Cook sailed in one of tbeir caaoes, and by repeated trials with the log, found that she went close hauled, in a gentle gale, seven miles an hour. He suppos- ed from this experiment, that they w«uld sail, with such breezes as generally blow on their seas, seven or eight miles an hour on an average. Each day, however, is not to be reckoned at twenty-four hoars ; for when they talk of one day's sail, they mean no more than from morning to the evening, or twelve hours at most. From the morning of the first day till the evening of the secondiis, with them, two days sail. In the day, they are guided by the sun ; and, in the night by the stars. When these are obscured, they can only have recourse to the points from whence the winds and waves come upon the vessel. If, at that time, the winds and the waves should shift, they are quite bewildered, often missing their ihtended port, and being never heard of more. The story of Oniiah's countrymen, who were driven to Wateeoo, convinces us, however, that those who are not heard of, are not always lost. Feejee abounds with hogs, dogs, and fowls, and such fruits iind roots as are to be found in any of the other Islands, and is much larger than Tongataboo, but not subject to its dominion. Feejee and Tongataboo engage in war against each other ; and the inhabi-> tants of the latter are often so much afraid ot this enemy, that they bend the body forward and cover the face with their hands, to express the sense of their own inferiority to the Feejee men. This, indeed, is no matter of surprise, for those of Feejee have rendered themselves formidable, by their dexterity in ihe use of bows and slings ; but moie so, by their savage practice of eating 3V such of their enemies as they kill in battle. It has been insisted on, that extreme hunger first occasioned men to feed on huniiin flesh ; but where could be the inducement fur the Feejee men to continue the practice, and remain cannibals, in the midst of plenty? It is held in detestation by the inhabitants ot Tongataboo, who seem to cultivate the friendship of their savage neighbours througb fear, though they sometimes venture to skirmish with them on their own ground, and carry off large quantities of red featliers as trophies. When a profound peace reigns between them, they have frequent intercourse together ; though, it is probable they have not long been known to each other, other- wise it mi^ht be supposed that Tongataboo, and its neighbouring Islands, would, before this time, have been supplied with a breed of dogs, which are numerous at Feejee, and, as we have observed, were introduced at Ton- gatabo, when Capt. Cook first visited it in 1773. The colour of the natives of Feejee is, at least, a shade darker than that of the inha- bitants of the other Friend 1;^ Islands. We saw one of the natives of Feejee, who had his ear slit, which was the left, and the lobe so stretched, that it almost extended to his shoulder; which singularitv had been observ- ed by Capt. Cook, at other Islands of the South Sea, during his second voyage. The Feejee people are much revered here, not (»nly on account of their power and cruelty in war, but also for their ingenuity ; for they much excel the inhabitants of Tongataboo in workmanship. Specimens were shewn us of their clubs and spears, which were \ery ingeniously carved. We were also shewn some of their cloth most beautifully checker- ed, mats richly variegated, curious earthen pots, and other articles, all of which display- ed a superiority in the execution. The harbour and anchoring places are by fur preferable to any we discoved among these Islands ; both on account of their capacity, and great security. The danger we were in of being wrecked, by entering it from the north, will remain a caution to every future commander, not to attempt that passage with a ship of burden. The eastern channel ii much more eaiy and safe. To ■i; «;:*15!''n hi V ')' m 514 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, t sail into this, steer for the N, E. point of the Island, »nd keep along the north shore, ttvitli the sinall Isles on yeiir starboard, till yon are the length of the east point of the entrance into the lagoon ; then edge over the reef of the small Isles, and, following its direction, you will get through between Makkahaaa and Monooafai, which lay off the west point of the lagoon. Or you may go between the third and fourth Islands, that is, between Pangimodoo and Monooa- fai ; but this channel is much narrower than the other. When you are through either of these channels, haul in for the shore of Tongataboo, and cast anchor between that and Pangimodoo, before a creek leading in-to the lagoon ; into which, at half flood, you may go with boats. Though the har- bour of Tongataboo has the perference, its water is exceeded in goodness by that of Annamooka; and yet even this can scarcely be called good. Indifferent water may, nevertheless, be procured, by digging holes near the side of the pond. JBesides, Anna- mooka, being nearly in the centr« of the whole group, is best situated for procuring refreshments from the others. There ii^' s; creek in the reef on the north side of the Island, wherein two or three ships may lie securely. We liave already given an account of the Hapaee Islands ; and shall only add, that they extend S. W. by S. and N. E. by N- about 19 miles. The north end lies in lati- tude 19 deg. S. and 33 deg. of longitude to the east of Annamooka. Between them are small Islands, sand banks, and breakers. Lafooga, off which we anchored, among alt the Isles of those that are called Hapaee, is the most fertile, and the best inhabited. Those who may be desirous of having a more particular description of the Friendly Islands, must have recourse to the list and chart. What may have here been omitted concerning their geography, will be found in our history of Captain Cook's former voyage, to which our readers are referred for such particulars as he liad then observed. At present, we shall only relate such interesting oircuiuttances, as either were omitted in that ..... 2 account, or were imperfectly and incorrectly represented. After living among the natives of the Friendly Islands between two and three months, it is reasonable to expect, that we should be able to clear up every difficulty, and to give a satisfactory account of their manners, ousloms, and institutions, civil jxi well as religious : especially, as we had a Iterson with us, who, by unJerstanding their anguage as well as our own,, might be thought capable of actinsas onr interpreter. But Omiah was not qualified for that fa^k. Unless we had before us an object or thirg concernvny which we wanted information, we found it difficult to obtain a competent knowledge about it, from his information and explanations. Omiah was certainly more liable to make mistakes than we were ; for having no curiosity, he never troubled himself with making remarks ; and when be attempted to explain any particular matters to us, his ideas were so limited, and differed so much from ours' that bis confused ac- counts, instead of instructing, often only perplexed, and ied us into numberless mistakes. Besides, we could seldom find a person, among the native?, who had both the ability and inclination to give us the information we required: and many of them, we perceived, appeared offended at being a.sked, what they, perhaps deemed frivolous questions. At Tongataboo, where we conti- nued the longest, our situation was likewise unfavourable ; being in a part of the country, where, except fishers, there were few inhabi- tants. With our visitors, as well as with those we visited, it was always holiday ; so that we could not observe, what was really the domestic way of living among the na. tives. That we could not, thcefore, thus circumstanced, bring away satisfactory ac- counts of many things, is not to be won- dered lit. Some of us, indeed, endeavoured to remedy these disadvantages; and to the ingenious Mr. Anderson we are most indebt- ed for a considerable share of our observati- ons respecting the Friendly Islands. The inhabitants of these, (though som« here, at Tongataboo, w^re aJbfoye six /eet AND ROUND THE WORLD, 515 Iiiglfl exceed the common stature, and are strong and well proportioned. Their should- ers are, in general brond ; we saw several who were really handsome ; though their muscular disposition rather conveyed the idea of strength Hian of beauty. Their features are so various, that, unless it be by a fulness «t the point of the nose, which is commoft, it is impossible to fix any general likeness by which to chaiacterize them. On th« other hand, many genuine Roman noses, and true European laces, were seen among them. They have good eyes and teeth ; but the latter are neither so well set, nor so remarkably white, as among the Indian nations. Few of them, however, have that remarkable thickness about the lips, so frequent in other Islands. The wo- men are less distinguished from the men by their features, than by their general form, which seems destitute of that strong firmness that appears in the latter. Though the fea- tures of some are verj^ delicate, and a true index of their sex, laying claim to a consider- able share of beauty and expression, yet the rule is not, by any means, so general as in many other conn'ries. Their shapes are usually well proportioned ; and some are absolutely perfect models of a beautiful fi- gure ; but the extraordinary smallness and delicacy of their fingers, which may be put in competition with any in Europe, seems ito be the most striking female distinction. The genral colour of these people is a cast deeper than that of the copper brown ; but several of both sexes have a true olive com- nlexion. Some of the women are much lilihter, owing, perhaps, to their being less exposed to the sun. As a tendency to cor- pulence, in some of the principal people, seems to be the effect of a more indolent life, 9 softer and clearer skin is most commonly to be seen among them ; but the skin of the greatest part of these people, is of a dull hue, with a degree of roughness, particularly those Earts that arc- uncovered, occasioned, proba- ly, by some cutaneous disease. We .saw a man at Hapaee perfectly white, and a child equally .so at Annamoi>ka. In all countries containing black people, such pheenomena HI e found, but tbey are caused, we imagine, a by a disease. Upon the whole, however, few natural defects, or deformities are to be seen among them ; though we observed two or three wiih their feet bent ii}wards> Neither are they exempt from, some diseases. Numbers are aflected with the tetter or ring-worm, which leaves whitish serpentine marks behind it. They have another disease of a more mischievous nature, which is also very frequent, and appears on every part ol the bod^', in large broad ulcers, discharg- ing a thin clear pus, some of which hud a very virulent appearance, particularly on the face. There were those, however, who appeared to be cured of it, and others mending; but it was generally at- tended with the loss of the nose, or a con- siderable part of it. Two other diseases are also common among them ; one of which i» a firm swelling, affecting chiefly the legs and arms ; the other is a tumour in the tes- ticles, which sometimes exceed the size of two fists. In other respects they are remark- ably healthy, not a single person having, during our stay, been confined to ^he house by any kind of sickness. Their strenglh and activity are in every respect, answera- ble to their muscular appearance ; and they exert both, in such a manner, as to prove, tliat they are as yet, little debilitated by the numerous diseases that are the natural conse- quence of indolence. The graceful mien, and firmness of step, with which they walk, are obvious proofs of their personal acconi- plishments. They consider thi» vs a things soneceuaryto be acquired, that their laugh- ter was excited when they saw us frequently stumbling upon the roots of trees, or other inequalities, in walking. The roildnes.sand good nature which they abundantly possess, are depicted on their countenances, totally free from that savage keenness, that always mark nations .in a barbarous state. W« might almost be induced to suppose, that they had been reared under the severest restrictions, .seeing they have acquired so settled an aspect, such a command of their passions, and such a steadiness of c< nduct. At the same time, they are Ojpeti, cl.eerful, and good humoured ; though in the presence of their cbieiii. tbey sometimet ftf^ume » VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, 516 dep^ree of r«s«nre, which has the appearance of gra-fity. Their pacific disposition is thoroughly evinced, from their friendly reception of all strangers. Instead of at- tacking them openlv, or clandestinely, they have never appeared, in the smallest degree, hostile : but like the most civilized nations, have even courted an intercourse with their visitors, by bartering; a medium which unites all nations in a degree of friendship. So perfectly do they understand barter, that, at first, we supposed they had acquired the knowledgeof it by trading with the neigh- bouring Islands ; but it afterwards appeared, that they had hardly any trafiic, except with Feejee. No nation, perhaps, in the world, displayed, in their traffic, more hones- ty and less distrust. We permitted them safely to examine our goods, and they had the same implicit confidence in us. Ifeither party seemed dissatisfied with his bargain, a re-exchange was made with mutual consent and satis&ction. Upon the whole, they seem to possess many of the most excellent qualities that adorn the human mind. A propensity to thieving is the only defect that seems to sully their fair charac- ter. Those of all ages, and both sexes, were addicted to it in an uncommon degree. It should be considered, however, that this exceptionable part of their conduct existed merely with respect to us ; for in their gene- ral intercourse with each other, thefts are not more irequent than in other countries, where the dishonest practices of individuals will not authorise an indiscriminate censure nn the people at large. Allowances should be made for the foibles of these poor Island- ers, whose minds . we oveiTJowered with the ^lareofffiew and captivating objects. Steal- ing among civilized nations, denotes a cha- racter deeply stained with moral turpitude : but at the Friendly Islands, and others which we visited, the thetls committed by the. natives, > may have been occasioned by less culpable motives: they mifpht be stimu- lated solely by cnrio5ity ; a d«sire to possess somewhat new-, and the property of people very difierent fiyjm themselves. Were a set of beings, seemingly di superior t# o^, as we appeared io tlieir eyes, to make their ap- pearance among us, it niight be possible that our natural regard to justice would not he able to restrain many from being guilty of the same erroneous practices. However, the thieving disposition of these Islanders, was tlie means of affording us «n insight into their ingenuity and quickness of intei lects : for their petty thefts were ma- naged with much dexterity ; and those of greater consequence, with asettled plan or scheme, adapted to the importance of the objects. The hair of these people is, in gene- ral, thick, straight, and strong, thous;h some have it bushy or frizzled. The natural colour appears to be black, but many of the men, and some of the women, stain it of a brown or purple colour ; and a few give it an orange cast. The first of these colours is produced by applying a sort of plaister ot burnt coral mixed with water ; the second by the raspings of a reddish wood mixed into a poultice, and laid over the hair ; and the third is said to be the effect of turmeric root. They are so whimsical in the fashions of wearing their hair, that it is difficult to say which 18 most in vogue. Some have none on one side of the head, while it remains long on the other : some have only a part of it cut short : others but a single lock on one side. There are again those who permit it to grow to its fiill length, without any such mutila- tions. The women usually wear it short: thjs beards of the men are usually cut in the same manner ; and both sexes strip the hair from their arm-pits. The men are stained with a deep blue colour from the middle of the belly to halfway down the thighs. This is effect- ed with a flat bone instrument, full of fine teeth, which by a troke of a bit of stick intro- duces the dooe dooe into the skin, whereby indelible marks are inade. Lines and figures are thus traced, which, in some, are very elegant. The women have only small lines thas imprinted on the inside of the hands. As a mark of distinction, their kings are exempted from this cu5tom. The men are circumcised in a partial manner. The operation consists in cutting off only a piece of the fore-skin at the upper part, whereby it ii rendered incapable of ever covering lb< or a nnuf ( AND ROUn D THE WORLD ai7 ahviis. This praefiee, af present, is founded only on a notion of cleanliness ^ The dress of both sexes is the same ; consisting of a piece of clotli or matting, about two yards in breadth, and a half in length. It is double before, and, like a petticoat, hangs down to the middle of the leg. That part of the jrarment which is above the girdle, is plaited in several folds, and this, when extended, is suiticient to draw up and wrap round the shoulders. As to form, it is the general fashion ; but the fine matting, and long pieces of cloth, are worn only by the superi- or class of people. The inferior sort are contented with small pieces, and, very often, )iave only a covering made of the leaves of plants, or the maro, a narrow piece of cloth, or matting, like a sash. Tnis they pass between the thighs and round the waist. It is seldom used by the men. In their haivas, or grnind entertainments, theirdresses,though the same in form, are various, embellisli- ed, more or less, with red feathers. Both men and women defend their faces occasi- onally fromthe-sun with little bonnets made of various sorts of materials. The orna- ments, worn by those of either sex, are the same. The most common are necklaces made of the fruit of pandanus, and various sweet smelling flowers, known by the gene- ral name of Kakulla, Others consist of small shells, sharks teeth, the wing and leg bones of small birds, &c. all which are pen- dant on the breast. In this manner they also wear a polished mother of pearl shell, or a ring* on the upper part of the arm: rings of tortoise-shell on the fingers ; and several of these joined together form brace- lets for the wrists. Two holes are perforated in the lobes of the ears, wherein they put cy- lindrical bits of ivory, of the length of three inches, introduced at one hole, and drawn outof the other ; or bits of reed filled with yellow pigment, This appears to be a fine powder of turmeric, \vhicn their women rub all over their bodies,' in the same manner as the European ladies use their dry rouge upon their cheeks. Personal cleanliness is their study and delight. To maintain which they bathe [frequently in the ponds, oreferring them to the sea, though the water has an intolerable stench ; when they are obliged to bathe in the sea, from a notion that salt water injures the skin, they v/ill have fresh water poured over them to wash off its bad effects. They are extravigantly fond of cocoa-nut oil ; a great quantity of which they pour upon their head and should- ers, and rub the body all over with a small- er quantity. The domestic life of these people is neither so laborous as to be disa- greeable, nor so free from emyioyment as to suffer them to degenerate into indolence. Their country has been so fa- voured by nature, that the first can scarcely occur ; and their active disposition seems to be a sufficient bar to the last. By this for- tunate concurrence of circumstances, their necessary labour yields, in its turn, to their amusements and recreations, which are never interrupted by the thoughts of being obliged to recur to bnsine3S, till they are induced by satiety to wish for that transition. The employment of the women is not fatiguing, and is generally such as they can withnu^t difficulty execute in the house. The makings of cloth is entirely entrusted to their care; the process of which manufacture has been already described. Their cloth is of different degrees of fineness; the coarsor kind does not receive the impression of any pattern*, but of the finer sorts, they have various patterns^ difierently coloured. The cloth, in general, is able to resist water for some time i but that which has the strongest glaze, is least liable to be penetrated thereby^ Another manufacture, consigned also to the women, is that of their mats, which excel those of most other couutriesy both with respect to their texture and beauty. Oi these there are seven or eight different sorts^ used either for their dress, or to sleep upon ; but many are merely ornamental. Ihese last are made chiefly from the tough, mem-< braneous part of the .stock of the plantain- tree ; those that they wear, are generally composed of the paodaniis; and the coarser kind, whereon they sleep, are formed from at plant calleif Evarra. We observed several other articles that employ their female, ai combs, of which they make gr«at quantities .* * '. '(4 5 ' I. ' ^ft'lJ. 518 VOYAGE TOWAKDS THE NOIITFI POLE, tunvxW baskets made of the sainesiibRtance as the m;its : and others, of the fibrous husk of tlie cocoa-nut, either interwoven with beads or plain ; all which are tinished with extra- (»r<(inary neatness and taste. The province of tiie men is, as ini<^ht reasonably be expected, far more laborious and extensive than that of the other sex. Architecture boat-building, agriculture, and fishing, constitute their principal occupations, and are the main objects of their at- tention As cnltivatedf roots and fruits form their chief subsistence, they find it iiece«:sary to practice husbandrv, which, by their industry, they have brought to a degree cf perfection. In managing yams and plan- tains, they dig small holes for their reception, and afterwards root up the surrounding grass. The instruments used for this pur- pose, are called hoo, and are nothing more than stakes of various lengths flattened and sharpened to an edge at one end ; and the largest have a short piece fixed trans- versely, by means of which they press the implement into the ground with the foot. When they plant the two above mentioned vegetables, they observe such particular exactness, that, which ever way you turn your eyes, the rows present themselves com- plete and regular. The bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, are dispersed about, without any order ; and when they have arrived at a certain height, give tbpm little or no trouble. The same may be said of another large tree, producing a roundish compressed nut, called ceefee ; and of a smaller one, hearing an oval nut, with two or three triangular kernels. The kappe is, in general, planted regularly, and in large spots ; but the Mawhaha is nterspersed ananng other things, as are also the yams and jeejee. Sugar cane is usuallv in small spots, closely crowded. The mul- berry, of which the cloth is made, is kept yery clean, and hasagoodspaoeallowedfor its growth. The fiandanus is commonly plant- ed in rows, cUwe together, at the sides of the fields. These people display very little taste or ingenuity in the construction of their houses. Those belonging to the common people are wretched huts, scarcely sttflici«ut to shelter 6 them from the inclemency of the weather, Those of the better sort are larger, as well as more commodious and comfortable. ^ house of the middling size is of the following dimensions, namely, about twelve feet in height, twenty in breadth, and thirty in length. Their hou«:es are, properly sneaking, thatched roofs or shwls, supported by raf- ters and posts. The floor is raised with earth smoothed, and covered with thick mattin$(. Some habitations are open all round ; bqt the mtgor part of them are enclosed on the weather side with strong mats, or with branches of the tocoii-nut tree, plaited, or interwoven with each other. A thick mat, about three feet l)r()ad, bent into a semicir- cular form, and placed edgeways, with the ends touching the side of the house, encloses a sufhcient sparre for tJie master and mistress to sleep in. The rest of the family sleep upon any part of the floor, the nnmarriecl men and women lying apart from each otiier. If the family is large, they have little hnts adjoining, in which the servants sleep. The whole of their furniture consists of some wooden stools, which serve them for pillows; baskets of different sizes, in which they put their combs, fish-hooks, and t«»ols ; two or three wooden bowls, in which they make kava ; some cocoa nut shells, a few gourds, and a bundle of cloth. But they are very skilful in building their canoes, which, indeed, are the most perfect of their mecha- nical productions. Tlie double ones are very large, sufficiently so to carry about fifty persons, and they sail at a great rale. They fix upon them generally a hut or shed, for the reception of the master and his family. These are made of the bread-fruit tree, and the workmanship is txtremely neat. They appear on the out-side as if they were com- posed of one solid piece ; but upon closer inspection, they are found to consist of a great number of planks, fitting each other exactly, and by means of a ledge on the inside, are secured together with cocoa-line. The single canoes are furnished with an out-rigger. The only tools w hich they makt use of in the cnnstrudtion of these boats, are hatchets, or adzes, of a smooth black stone ; auffurs, made of sbarkff teeth : and rasps, AND ROUND THE WORLD, 519 composed of the rough skin of a fish, fasten- ivory. They likewise inlay with ivory the edon flat pieces of wood. The same tools handles of fly-flaps; and, with a shark's figures of men* are all they have for other work, except tooth, shape bones into shells, which serve them for knives. Their birds, &c. cordai?e is made of the fibres of the cocoa- Their vegetable diet consists principally of nut husk, which, though not more than plantains, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and yams ; ten inches long, they plait about the size of and their chief articles af animal food are a qiiil'i to whatever leni?th may be required, hogs, fish and fowls ; but the common people and roll it up into balls ; and by twisting frequently eat rats. Hogs, fowls, and turtle, several of these together, they form their however, seem to be only occasionaly dain- ropes of a larger size. Their fishing lines ties, reserved for pet sons of rank. Their areas strong and even as our best cord, food is dressed by baking, as atOtaheite; Their small hooks consist entirely of pearl- and they make, from different sorts of fruit, shell ; but the large ones are only covered several dishes, which are very good. They with it on the back ; and the points of both sometimes boil their fish in the green leaves are, in general, of tortoise-shell. With the of the plantain-tree, which serve as a bag to large hooks they catch albicores, and bonet- hold both fish and water : having tied tnem tos, by putting them to a bamboo-rod, about up, they wrap them again in three or four twelve feet long, with a line of the same other leaves, and place them upon stones length. They have also a number of small heated for the purpose : when sufficiently seines, some of which are of the most delicate done, they not only eat the fish, but drink texture the liquor or soup. They are not very clean- Their musical reeds or pipes, resembling ly either in their cookery, or their ^meals, or thesyrinxof the antients, have eight or ten manner of eating. Their usual drink is water, piece's placed parallel to each other, most of or cocoa-nut milk, the kava being only their which are of unequal lengths. Their flutes morning beverage. The food tlrat is served are made of a joint of bamboo, about eigl>- up to the chiefs is generally laid upon plan- teen inches long, and are closed at both ends, tain-leaves. The king, at his meals, was having a hole near each end, and four others ; commonly attended upon by three or four of two of which, and only one of the first, are the natives, one of whom cut large pieces of used by theiu in playing. They close the the fish, or of the joint ; another afterwards jet't nostril with the thumb of the left-hand divided it into mouthtuls, and the rest stood and blow into the hole at one end with the by the cocoa-nuts, and whatever else he other nostril. The fore-finger of the right- might happen to -want. We never saw a hand is ap|)lied to the lowest hole on the large company sit down to a sociable mea), right, and the middle finger of the left, to the by eating from the same dish. The women first hole on that side. In this manner, with are not excluded from taking their daily only three notes, they produce a pleasing, repast in company with the men ; but there though simple harmony. Their nafFa, or are certain ranks that are not allowed either driiiii, has been described already. Their to eat or drink together. This distintioti wavlilie weapons are clubs curiously orna- begins with his majesty, but where it ends W0 meuted, spears, and dfcrts. They make know not. These people rise at day-break. hows and arrows, but these are intended for amusement, and n^t for the purposes of war. Their .stools or rather pillows, are about two feet long, but only four or five inches in height, and near four in breadth, and retire to rest as soon as it becomes dark. They, for the mos,t part, sleep also in the day-time, when the weather is very hot. They are fond of associating together : ia consequence of which, it is not uncommon to inclining downwards towards the middle, find several houses empty, and the possessors with four strong legs and circular feet ; the of them assembled in some other house, or whole copipo?ed of brown or black wood, upon some convenient spot in the neigbour* neatly polishedi and sumetimes inlaid with hood, where they relax themselves by 7 !(i I' t|*f|..; r '^ I l;f .;■ • i m 520 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLK, conversation and other amuseroe ts. Their private diversions ch-iefly consis f dancing, sin;j(ing, and inuaic. When two or three wutiieii snap their ting^ers, and sing in con- cert, it is called oobai ; but when there are more, th«y form several parties, each of >vhich sings in a different key ; whereby an •;?reeable melody is made, termed heeva, or haiva. The songs are generally acconipa- nied with the music of their nutes. The dances both of the men and women, are performed with an ease and grace not easily to be described. We could not determine with precision, whether their marriages were rendered durable by any kind of solemn tfoutract : it is certain, however, that the uiiijorpartof the peonlecontented themselves with one Wife. The chiefs, indeed, have commonly several woraen» though there was only one (as we thought) who was cun- sidered in the light of mistress of the family: a circumstance remarked among all nations where concubinage and polygamy were allowed. Though female chastity seemed to be held in little estimation, not a single breach of cor\jugal fidelity happened, to our knowledge, during the whole time of our continuance at these Islands ; nor were the unmarried women of rank more liberal of their favours : but numbers were of a differ- ent character ; yet most, if not all of them, of the lowest class of people ; and such of those who permitted familiarities to our crews, were prostitutes by profession. The concern shewn by these Islanders for the dead, is a strong proofof their humanity. Besidef the Tooge, of which mention has been made before, and burnt circles, and f cars, they strike a shark ^s tooth into their 1ieads> till the blood flows plentifully, beat their teeth with stones, and thrust spears not only throu^''h their cheeks into their mouths, but also into the inner part of their thighs, and into their sides ; so that, to use a common expression, tlieii mourning may be sa'd to be not in words but deeds. And such a rigorous discipline mast, one would think, require an uncommon degree of affection, or the mo^ gross superstititm, to exact. It is liighl^ probable the last has a share in it ; Cir maigr could not have any knowledge af the person for whom their eoncern wa§ >x« pressed. We saw the people of ToiisfntaLuo deploring the death of a chief at Vivaoo • andother similar instances occurred dnrni'' our stay. The more painful onerations^ however, are i)racticed only wnen tliey mourn the deaifi of those most nearly con- nected with them. When u person dies, he is wrapped up in mats, m clotli, or both, and then interred. The Fiatookas seem to be appropriated to the chiefs, and other persons of di.siinction, but inferior people have no particular spot set apart for their burial. Jt IS ancertuin what mourning ceremonies follow the general one; bat we are well assured of there being others which continoe a long time ; the funeral of Mareewa^ce's wife was attended with ceremonies ot five davs duration. These people seem to con- sider death as a great evil, to aver^ which they have a very singular custom. When Capt. '^'>ok, during his former voyage, visited these k lands, he observed tliat many of the natives had one or both of their little fmgers cut off* ; of the reason nf which mntilatiun he could not then obtain a satisfactory account, But he was now informed, that they perform. ed this operation when they are afflicted with some dangerous disorder, which they imagine may bring them to the grave. They suppose, that the little finger will i)e accepted of by the deity, as a kind of propitiatory sacrifice, sufficiently efficacious to procure their recovery. In cutting it off, they make use of a stone hatchet. We saw scarcely one person in ten who was not thus muti- lated ; and they sometimes cut so close, as to encroach upon that bone of the hand which joins the amputated finger. It is also com- mon for the lower class of people to cut oil a joint of their little finger, on account of the sickness of the chiefs to whom they respectively belong. When this rigid strict- ness with which they perform their mourn- ing and religious ceremonies is considered, it might be expected, that they endeavoured thereby to secure to themselves eternal hap> piness ; but their principal olyect regarof things merely temporal ; for they have apparently little conception of future pn- nisamcnt for mos comiiuttcd in the present AND ROUND THE WORLD 021 Tife. Tliey believe, however, that they i.ect with just punishment in the present *;ijite ; and, tnerefbre, put every method in practice to render their divinities propitious. 'l'|,ey admit a plurality of deities, all of them inferior to Kallafootonga, who, they say, is a (emale, and the suprenfie authoress of nature, residing above, and directing the wind, rain, tliiind«r, &c. They are of oitinion, that when she is much displeased with them, the productions of the earth are blasted, many tilings consumed by lightning, and them- selves afflicted with sickness and death ; but fiiat when her anger abates, every thing is immediately restored to its former state. Among thevr subordinate deities, they men- tion Fnttafailie, or Footafooa, who has the administration of the sea, and its produc- tions ; Toofona-boolootoo, god of the clouds and fogs ; Talieteboo, Mattaba, Tareeava, and others. The same system of piinoiples does not extend all over the Friendly Islands ; the supreme deity of JHapaee, for instance, being called Alo Alo. They fntertain very absurd opinions relative to the power and various attributes of their i;od«, who, they suppose, have no farther concern with them after death. They have, however, juster sentiments respecting the immortality of the soul, which they call life, the living principal, or an Otooa, that is a divinity. They imagine that, immediately after death, the souls of their chiefs are separated from their bodies, and go to a de- li;^htful region called Boolootoo, the god of which is stiled Gooleho, by whom they pro- bably personify death. His country, accorr dingf to their mythology, is the general reposi- tory of the dead ; and they who are once con- veyed thither die no more, and feast on all the favourite productions of their native soil, with which this blissful abode is supposed by them to be ulentitully furnished. The souls of those in the lowest rank of the people are said to suffer a kind of transmigration ; or are eaten up, they think, by a bird, called Jiftota, which walks over the graves with that intent. They do not worship any visible part of the creation, or any thing made with their own hands : nor do they niaUe any offerings of dogs, hogs, and fruit 3X (as is the custom at Otahcite) nnless embte- mati4;ally : but there is no reason to doubt of their offering up human sacrifices. Their Fiatookas or Morais, are in general, burying grounds and places of worship : some of them, however, appeared to be appropriated oniy to the former purpose ; but these were small, and very inferior to the rest. We are acquainted only with the c^eneral outlinesof their fjovernment. A subordina- tion, resembling the feudal system of our ancestors in Europe, is established among them ; but of its subdivisions', and the consti- tuent parts, we are ignorant. By some of ttie natives we were informed, that the king's power is unlimited, and that he has the absolute disposal of the lives and |)»"oper- ties of his subjects ; yet the few circum- stances that fell under our observation* contradicted, rather then confirmed, the idea ofa despotic sway. Mareewagee, Feenon, and Old Toobou, acted esich the part ofa petty sovereign, and not unfrequcntly coun- teracted the measures of the king. Nor was the court of Poulaho superior in splendor to those of Old Toobou and Mareewagee, who, next to his niiijesty, were the most potent chiefs in these Islands ; and after them Feenou appeared to stand highest in rank and authority. li>it, howevrr independent of the king the principal men may be, the inferior people are totally subject to the will ofthe chiefs to whom they severally belong. The Island of Tongataboo is divided into numerous districts, each of which has its peculiar chief, who distributes justice, and decides disputes within his own territory. Mostof tliese chieftains have estates in other Islands, whence they procure supplies. The king, at stated times, receives the productions of his distant domains, at longataboo, which is not ortly the usual place of his residence, but the abode of most persons of distinction among these Islands. Its inha- bitants call it frequently the Land of Chiefs, and stigmatize the subordinate Isles with the appellation of Lands of Servants. The chiefs are stiled by the people, Lords of the Earth, and also of the sun and sky. The noyal family assume the name ot Fata--^ iaihe, from the god distinguislied by that V I'it mmm i> A*i2 TO^AGB TOTTARDS THE NORTH POLR, i iii .bJ; is probably considered by them on the contrary, come under his fret. Tlic ilelary natron. The kings title. wli»> . . asiljpjr tutelary patron. The kings pecu- method of dnin;; homage to* him ,j»n«i fm. liar titif is simply To«»e Toni,'a. The order other chiefs, is as follows : the person who ij iiiid iltcoruni observed in his presence, and to pay oheisaiice squats down biioie the likewisr ill tiKit of the other chiefs, are truely great oersonage, and iiuws (he head down to adiiiiuibje. Whenever he sits down, all the the sole of his foot, w Inch he taps or lonches attendants seat tl^emselves before him, form- with the upper and underside of (he tinkers ing a spuiicircle, and leaving a suflicient of each hand; then risiut? up, he retires. i>pace l)etwe«'n them and him, into which no We had reason to think, that his majesty one, unless he hus particular business, pre- ('jniKit reluse jjny one who is desirous of wunes, to enter ; nor is anyone suffered to paying hiui tliis honinge, called by the natives r.it, or pass behind him, or even near him, moe nioea ; for the pen, for the females, that gentleman says, thn^ applied, become in some cases useless a always sit with both their legs thrown a short time; for till these are washed they Jittle on one side. To speak to the king mustnot touch food of any kind. Thisprohi- htinding, would here be «;onsidered as a bition, in a country where water is far from ulariny: mark of rudeness. No.u of the niosit being plentiful, would be attended with an rivilized nations hav« ever exceeded these incimvenience, if a piece of any juicy plant. Islanders in the great order and regularity which they can immediately procure, being maintained on every occasion, in ready and rubbed over the hands, did not serve for submissive compliance with the command of the purpose of purification. When thus their su|)eri(»rs, and in the perfect harmony circumstanced, they term their situation that subsists among all ranks. Such a he- taboo rema ; the former word generally haviour manifests itself in a remarkable signifying forbidden, and the latter implyin;? manner, whenever their chiefs harangue a hand. When the taboo is incurred, by doing body of them assembled together, which homage to a person of rank, it may thus be frequently happens. The greatest attention easily washed off ; but in several other and most profound silence are observed cases, it must continue for a certain period, during the harangue; and whatever might We have often seen women who have be«n be the purport of the oration we never saw a taboo rema, fed by others. The interdicted single instance, when any one of those who person, after the limited time is elapsed^ were present, shewed signs of being dis- washes herself in one of their 4>aths, which pleased, or seemed in the least inclined to are, in general, dirty ponds of br^kish water. dis|>ute the declared will of the speaker. It She then waits upon the king, and, after is a peculiar privilege annexed to the person having paid the customary obeisance, ttiM of the king, not to be punctured* nor cir- hold of tiis fopt, which ri^« applies to her cumcised, as all his subjects are. Whenever shouliders, breast, and «Aher parts ; Ke then he walks out, all who meet him must sit embraces her on b<>th sbouiders, and she down till he has passed. No person is irapoediately retires,; {Miriffed from her un- fuffered to be over his bead; but all muft, cleanntss. If it be always necessary tu AND ROJND THE WOULD. 1^9 htve reeoorse to hit majesty for this purpose (of which we are not certain, though Omiah issured us it was) it may be one reason for Ills travelling so very frequently from one Island to another. The word taboo, as we have before observed, has a very extensive sii^nification. They call human snorifices, tan^ata taboo; and when any purtioulxr filing is prohibited to he eaten, or made use of, they sny it is taboo. We were told by tlieui, that if the king should go into a lioiise belonging to one of his subjects, that JjoMse would become taboo, and could never I)e;v,^ain inhabited by the owner of it ; so Ihat, wherever his majesty travels, there are houses p^ouliarly assigned for his aceom- tnodutioii. At (his time Old To(>bou presid- ed over th'^ l:!!)'»o ; that is, if Omiah did not misnndersland those who gave him the intelligence, he, nnd his deputies, had the inspection of ail the produce of the Island, taking care that each individual should cidtivuteand plant his nuotv, and directing what should and what should not be eaten. By so prudent a regulation, they take effec- tual precautions against a famine ; sulHcieut ground is employed in raising provisions ; »«i(l every article is secured from unnecessary consumption. By another good regulation, an officer of rank is appointed to superintend th(? police. This department was adminis- tered, while we continued among them, by Feenon, whose business (as we were inform- ed) it was to punish all delinquents : he was also generalissimo, or commander in chief of llie forces of the Islands, Poulaho himself fleclared to us, that, if he should become a kid man, Feenou would dethrone, and kill liiin ; by which he doubtless meant, that if lie neglected the duties of his high station, or govern in a manner that would prove prejudicial to the public welf&re, Feenou wou\d be desired by the other chiefs, or by the collective body of the people, to depose him from th« supreme command, and pat him to deat!i. A king thas subject to con- trnul and pnnishment lor abuse of power, cannot justW be deemed a despotic prince. When *ve take into consideration the num- Ucr of Islands of which this state consists, uiid the distance of wbicli some of them are removed from the seat of goverment, at- tempts to throw olf the yoke of stil>jt'ctior,' niiglit be apprehended. Hut they inibrmed us, timt this rirciinistance never happens. One reason of Ihcir not being thus embroil- ed in donieslic connnotions may be this ; that all the priuiipal chiefs take up their residence at fongalaboo. 'i'liey also , secure the dependence of the other Ir.lcs, by the decisive celerity of their operations: for if a seditions and popular knun shoiiid sUnt up in any of then., reen',n, or wliof ver hap- pens to bold his ollice, is imine/Jiately dis- patched thither to put him to death ; by which means the^' exIingu'sU an insuri/ctioii while it is yet m embryo. 'J'jie different classes of their chiefs seeinetl to be nearly as numerous as amcij^fus; but there are few, comparatively speaking, that are lords of extensive districts of territory. It is said, that when a person of property dies, all hia possessions devolve on the sovereign ; but that it is customary to give them to the eldest son of the decea«^ed, with this condition an- nexed, that he should pro\ ide, out of th« estate, for the other children. The crown is hereditary ; and we know, from a par- ticular circumstance, tlial the Futtafi'jhes, of which vamily is Poulaho, isave reigned, in a direct line, for the space of at least one hundret! and thirty-five years, which have elapsed lietween our present visit to these Islands, and Tasman's discovery of them. Upon our nujuiring, whether any tradition- al account of the arrival of I'asman's ships had been preserved among thenj, till this time, we tound, that the history had been delivered down tothern with great accuracy : for they said, that his two sjiips resendiled ours; and also mentioned the place where they had lain at anchor ; their havmg con- tinued but a few days ; and their qnittiii!^ that station to go to Annamooka ; and, for the purpose of informing us how long ago this affair happened, they commuHieated to ns the name of the FuTtafaihe who reigned at that time, and those who succeeded him in the sovereignty down to Poulaho, who is the fifth monarch since that period. It 'night he imsigitied, that the present reiy^ning .'sove- reign OT tfae Friendly Isles had the highe.t i ' ? t '■ i;i' ■■ ' I {. rHjJ. ■.,,•1; Yj ; 1 |: "life* iV24 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLK, rank in his dominions ; but we found it otherwise ; for Latoolibooloo, whom we have ah'eady noticed, and three ladies of rank, are superior to Ponlaho himself These great personages, are distinguished by the title of Tatnmaha, which denotes a chief. Whenweniade enquiry concerning them, we were informed that the late kint?, father of Poilaho, left behind him a sister of equal rank, and older than himself; that, by a native of Feejee, she had a son and two daughters ; and that these three persons, as well as their mother, are of hij^her rank than the kinor. The mother, and one of her dauaihters, named Tooeela-kaipa, resided at Vav.ioo: the other daughter, called Moun- goula-kaipa, and Latoolibooloo, the son, dwell at Tongataboo. Moungoula-kaipa, is the lady of quality whom we mentioned as having dined with Capt. Cook on the 21st of June. Latoolibooloo is thought by his countrymen to be out of his senses. At Middleburgh, they shewed us a considerable quantity of land, said t^ be his property ; and, at the same place, we saw a son of bis, a child, who was honoured with the same respect title, and homage as his father : and the natives much humoured and caresfdd this little Tammaha. The language of these Tslands bears, a great resemblance to that of Otaheite, as will appear from the following small colleo- tioTi of words, which we have endeavoured to make as correct as possible. A TABLE, contain»i\g" a short specimen of the Language of the Friendly Islands, with corresponding words of the same sig- nification, as used in Otaheite. Friendly Isles. Otaheite. English. Fiiendly Isles Otaheite English Tjond A Lance or Spear A Man A Parent Hain Red The Sun Sleep teou^ Servant, or one of mean rank The sea Thunder The Ton^-nc To holdfast Jo utpe, or cleanse The Wind Water A Woman What in that i Warm I You, Yes No Ten To rise up To shed Tears To eat Foi ooa Fenooa 1 a<> 'iao Tangata Taa(a Motooa Madooa Ooha Eooa Goola Oora oora Elaa Eraa Mohe Moe Tooa Toutou or Tahee Tape Fatoore Pateere Elelo Erero Amou Mou Horo Horoee Matangee Mataee Avy Evy Vetaine Waheine Kohaeea Yahaeea Mafanna Mahanna Ou Wou Koe Oe Ai Ai Kaee Aee Ongolooroo Ahooroo Etoo A loo Tangee Taee {•-Uy Ey Koonioo Wakka Oole A ho Tareenga Eafoi Taheine Fooroo Ooma Evaa En Aou Tareea Eahoi Toonea Eroroo The Bread A Boat or- canoe , Black The Dawn The Ear Fire A Girl The Hair 4 We must here observe, that vocabularies of this kind connot be entirely free troiii errors. These will unavoidably spring up from various causes. It will be difficult to fix the objects of enquiry, when the concep- tions of those from whom we are to learn the words, so widely dilFer from our own ; nor could much be obtained from a pre- ceptor who knew very few words of any language that his pupil was conversant with : but. what led us frequently into mistakes, was, the impossibility of catching the true sound of a word, to which our ears hud never been accustomed, from persons, whose pronunciation seemed to us, in general, so in- distinct, that two of us writing down the same.word from the same mouth, nuulc use, AND ROUND THE WORLD, &2*> not only of difterent vowels, but even differ- exactly the same. T!ie laivj:n;ii;e sj.oUen by ent consonants, the soands of which are the Friend lylslaiids, is sufilcienii.v copious on into jeast bable to ambiguity. Besides, bom the to expressall their ideas ; and, besides being natives endeavonrinj? to imitate ns, (»r from harmonions in common conversation, i's easi- r having misunderstood them, we were led. ly adapted to the purposes of music, of strange c(»rrnpti(ms of words : thus, for which we had many proofs. As far as we example ; cheeto, though totally diifereut could judge, from our short intercourse with from the real word, in the limgnage of Ton- the natives, its component parts are not gatahoo, was always used by us to ex[)ress a numerous ; and in some of its rules it agrees thief. This mistake took its rise from one, with other known languages : indeed it has into vvhicli we had fallen when at New Zea- none of theintlections of nouns and verbs, land. For though the word that signifies as in the Latin tongue ; but we could dis- thief there, is the very same in the Friendly cern easily the several degrees of comparison. Islands (being Kaeehaa :.,t both places) yet by Among hundreds of words we were able to some blunder -.ve had used tie word teeie, collect, we found terms to exprcs numbers first at New Zealand, and afterwards at as far as a hundred thousand, beyond which Tongataboo ; the natives whereof, endea- they either would not, or could not reckon : vnuring So imitate ns as nearly as they for having got thus far, they commonly used could, fabricated the word cheeto ; and a word expressing an indefinite number, this, by a complication of mistakes was At these Islands the tides are more consi- ii(l<»p^ed by us as our own. derable, than at any other of Capt. Cook's The language of the Friendly Islands discoveries in this ocean, that are situated bears a striking resemblance to that of New within either of the tropics. In the chan-» Zealand, of Otaheite, and all the Society nels between the Islands, it flows near tide Isles. Many of their words are also the and half fide; and it is only here and in a name with those used by the inhabitants of few places near the shores, that the tide is Cocos Island, as may be seen by consulting a perceptible ; so that we could guess only at vocabulary made there by Le Maire and the quarter from whence the flood comes. In Scliouten. And yet, though Tasman's peo- the road of Annamooka it sets W. S. W. and pie used the words of that vocabulary, in the ebb the contrary, but it falls into the gpeaking to the natives of Tongatabt.o, (his harbour of 1 ongataboo from the N. M\ Amsterdam) we are told, in the accounts of passes through the two guts on each "^ide of his voyage, that they did rot understood one iloolaiva, where it runs rapidly, and then jinotiier ;^ a cironmstain'e worthy of notice; spends itself in the Lagoon. The ebb re- as it shews how cautious we ought to be, turns the same way with rather greater force, npon the scanty evidence atlbrdeortunities of making astronomi- Friendly Isles differs, indeed, In many in- cal and nautical observations ; whereby we stances, from that both of Otaheite and New ascertained the tlifference of loiisitu'le be- Zeuland ; nevertheless a great number of tween Annamou\ca and Tongataboo with A Olds, are either very little changed, or inor« exactness than was done in V?aj)t V- '«( I.,/'- &■■*■ h :fe ) ■.Ihjy.tVSi &2ff VOYAGE TOWARDS HIE XOKTII l»OLE, Cook's second voyacre. The latitude of the former i^ 20 de^v. 15 min. S. and its lonfi;!- tiide 185 dejf. 11 min. 18 ^ec. E. The observatory was placed on the west side of this Island : and in the middle of the north side of the Island of Tongataboo, the latitude of which; according^ to the most accurate observation, we found to be 21 de|». 8 min. 19 sec. S. and its long:ittide 184 desr. 55 min. 18 see. E. Havinq: uow roncluded our remarks on the Friendly Islan(ls, and the natives, we shall take a tinal leave of them, and resume in the next chapter, the prosecution of the history of our voyage. Wtta CHAP. VII. TTie Resolution u-i.. Discover i^ dit^ct their Covrsefor Otaheite and the Sotiety Jilts ; Heavy squalls and blowing toeather ; An Jiclipse oj the Moon observed ; They discover the Island of Toabinm ; Its Situation Extent, and Produce ; A Description of the persons. Dress, and Canacs, of tMf Inhabitants ; The two ships arrive in Oheitepea Harbour at Otaheite; Omiah's lier.cptiou • His imprudent Conduct ; An Account of two Spanish Ships, which had twice visited the Jslunxl • Great Demand for red Feathers ; Capt. Cook visits a chief, said by Omiah to be the Oiia, or God iff Bolabola ; Account of a House erected by the Spaniards ; InsC/iptions ; The Captains Iniei- view with Waheiadooa ; Description of a Toopnpaoo ; An Erithxisiast ; The Ships anchor in Matavai Say ; Interview with Otoo, King of Otaheite ; Omiah's imprudent Behaviour ; Ani- mals landed, aud Occupations onshore ; Visit from a Nrtliie who had been at Lima ; ParticvJum relating; to Oedidee ; A Rcocllion in Eimeo^ A council of Chief s called, who declare for War ; A human Sacrifice offered fot ihe Success of their Arms ; An Account of the Ceremouies at the great Morai, and the Behaviour of the Natives ; Other particular Customs among the Otaheiteans. ON Thursday, the 17th of July, wben steering for our intended port, tlie body of Eaoo, at eig^ht o'clock in the eveiiiiijf, bore N. E. by N. distant three leagues. The wind blew a fresh Kale at east ; and we stood with it to the south, till after six o'clock the next niorniriBT, when, in latitude 22 detr, 24 min. S a sudden squall took our ships aback, and before they could be trimmed on tlie other tack, the main sail and top-gallant sails were much torn. On the 16th, the wind kept between theS.W. and SE and the next day veered to the E. N. E. and N. In the iiicLt jjtelween the 20th and 21st, an eclipse of tlie uioon was observed, when we found f ^r ship to he in latitude 22 deg. 57 men. tV) sec. nndin longitude 180 deg. 57 min. tH) %iM\ We continued to stretch to the E. S. R. wilb- out meeting with any thing remarkable till Tuesday the 29lh, wheji, in latitude 2H deg. 6 min. S. and in lougitude 189 deu. 2'j una. Q E. Jhe weather became tempestuou.s, anfl « sudden squall carried away the main-top, and top gallant-mast of the Discovery. She had also her jib carried away, and her main- sail split. It is astonishing to ste with what spirit and alacrity English sajlors exert tliemselves on such occasions. Amidst a storm, when it would have been almost im- possible fur a iands-mnn to have trusted hinv- self tipon deck, the sailors mounted aloft, and with incredible rapidity cleared away the wreck, by which they preserved theslnp. Nothing equal to this with us, asi xvhen the lafter cleared up, and the former well as to soiind tor anchora.c^c, we shortened •gttU'd in the N. W quarter. This day we sail ; and, at the distance of halfa mile from were visitefl by some pint^ulo birds, which the reef, we found from 40 to »35 faUion?!* wft.e the t:rst we had seen since we left land, vater. The canoes having: advanced within At noon, oftlhe J31st, Capt. Clerke made a pistol-sliot of the ships suddenly stopped. signal to speak with us ; and by the n turn We desired Otiiiiih, as was usual on such otoiir boat we were int'onned, that the head occasions, to endeavour to prevail ujion the5ti ofthe Discovery's ujain-mast had sprung in to come nearm England, having an Island taturr', and was connected, fornnng one and the same tattowed from head to fool ; their language Island. VVe made directly for it, with a fine different from any we were ytt acquauited irale, and at seven o'clock, p. M. it extended with; their dress not unlike that of the iVom N. by E. to N. N. E. distant fourleagues Amsterdammers ; their complexion darker ; On the 9th, at day-break we steered for the their heads ornamejited with shells, feathers* N. W. or Jee side of the Island ; and as we and flowers; and their canoes neatly con- stood round its S. W. part, we saw it guard" structed and elegantly carved. Of their tdl»y a reef of coral-rock, extending in some manners we could form little or no judge- places, at least, a mile frtun the land, and a nient. They apjiearetl extremely timid; liigh surf breaking over it. As we drew but, by their waving green bouglis, and exhj. iitar, we saw people walking or running biting other signs of peace, they gave u* along shore, on several parts of the coast, reason to believe that they were fricndVyV ind, in i short time after, when we had reach- They exchanged some small fish and cocoa- ed the lee side of the Island, we saw two uuts ibr lift ' and ]\|,4^(^kU^vgh i;lo.th. la f ff P ■!i. ' ■■I. '■ \ K mmm i 1, ^ 1 1 In J ; t'^k m ' i d^>S VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, in oar approach to Toobouai, some of our j^entlemen, on b» ..rd the Resolution, made the few following" remarks. The greatest extent of this Island, in any direction, is not above five or six miles : but the above gentleman, belonging; to the Dis- covery, says, " Its greatest length is about twelve miles, and its breadth about four." Small, however, as it appeared to us, there are hills in it of a considerable elevation ; at the foot of which is a narrow border of flat iand, extending almost all round it ; bor- dered with a white sand beach, except a few rocky cliti's in one part, with patches of trees interspersed to their summits. This Island, ais we were informed by the men in the eanoes, is plentifully stocked with hogs and fowls; and produces the several kinds of fruits and trees that are to be met with in this neighbourhood. We discovered also, that the inhabitants of Toobouai speak the lan- g^uage of 'Jtaheite ; an indubitable proof that they are of the same nation. Those whom we, on board the Resolution, saw, were a stout copper coloured people ; some of whom wore their hair (which was straight and black) flowing about the shoulders, and others had it tied in a bunch on the crown of the head. Their faces were roundish and full, but the features flat ; and their coun- tenances ex|)ressed a degree of natural fero- city. Their covermg was a piece of narrow stufl' wrapped round the waist, and passing between the thighs ; but some of those wljom we beheld u|)on the beach, were completely clothed in white. Same of our visitors, in the canoes, had their necks ornamented with pearl shells ; and one of them continued blowing a large conch-shell, to which a reed, of about two feet long, was flxed. He began in a long tone, without any variation, and afterwards converted it into a kind of musical instrument. Whether the blowing of the conch was with any particular view, or what it portended, we cannot say, but we never found it to be the messenger of peace. As to their canoes, they appeared to be about thirty feet long and they rose about two feet above the surface of the water, as they floated. I'iie fore-part projected a little ; the atler- !>art rose to the height of two or thre« feet, 8 with a gradual curve, and, like the nppti- part of tie sides, was carved all over. J'l)^ rest of the sides were ornamented with flat white shells curiously disposed. They were con'lno'tid with small paddles whose blades were almost circular ; and they sometimes paddled with the two opposite sides, so close together, that they appeared to b« but one boat ; the rowers occasionally turning their faces to the stern, and pulling towards it without turning the canoes round. Seemi' we were determined to leave them, tli»'> stood up, and reneated something lo-id ; but vvtknew not whether they were expres- sing hostile intentions, or friendship. It js certain, however, that they had not any wea- pons with them ; nor could we with our glasses discover, that those on shore were armed. Leav.ng this Island, we proceeded, wiih an easy breeze, to the north, and on Tuesday the l*2th, at day break, we came in si<,Hit of the Island of Maitea. Soon after the niaii at the masthead called out land, wliioli proved to be the Island oj Otaheite, of whicli we were in search : the point of Oiaite Peh;), or Oheitepeha Bay, hearing west, four leagues distant. For this bay we steered, in- tending to anchor there, in order to procure some refreshments from the S. E. part of the Island, before we shifted to Matavai, wliere we expected our principal supply. We had afresh gale till two o'clock P. M. when at above a league from the bay, the wind sud- denly died away. About two hours after, we had sudden squalls, with rain, from Ik- east; so that, after having in vain atteiujited to gain the anchoring place, we were obliged to stand out, and sftend the night at sea. As we a|)[»roaclied the Island, we were attended by several canoes, each containing two or three men: but l)eing of the lower class Oiniah took no particularnotic'Ui them, nor they of him. They did not know that he was one of their countrymen, t' „i.^h they had conversed with him for soni'- ♦ime. At length a chief, whom Capt. Cook liiid known before, named Ootee, and Oiuiah's brother-in-law, who happened to he i;t this time, at this corner of the Island, {jiree or four others, all of whom knew Oanah, iipptr h flat y were blades etimes close ut one ; their ards it 1, till') : io'.ul ; expres- ). It is iiy wea- itl'j our (re were ed, with ruer.day sight of the uiaii 1. which of which ite Pebrt, est, ibi\r :?ere(l,in- ) procure lit of the lai, where AVe had when at lind sud- irs after, from the ltteiii|ited leo bh'''ed sea. at Iwe were ]ntainiiig' he lower low 4l theiiis that ,1. iw^ 'niie. k had Oiniah's [<>o ;t til IS tlilVP 01 Oaiiuh, A^P ROCfND THE WOlttP. 6S^ before l»e etnbarked with Capt. Furaes^nx, Mine on board : yet there was nothing in the least tentJer or striking in their meeting, but oil the contrary, a perfect indifi«renee on both sides, till Omiali, conductiuir his brother iito tl»e cabin » opened a drawer, and gave hiiQ a few red feathers : this circumstance being soon communioated to the rest of the nativesondeck, Ootee who before wonldhard- ly speak to him, now begs^jed, that they might be Tayos (friends) and exchange names. Omiah readily accepted of the honour, and a present of red feathers ratified the agreement. JBy way of return, Ootee sent ashore for a hog. It was evident, tiowever, to all of us present, that it was not the man, but hi? property, that they esteemed. Had he no; displayed liis treasure of red feathers, a com- modity of great estimation in the Island, it if; a matter ot doubt whether they wouW have bestowed a single cocoa-nut uj)on him. Such was Omiah's first reception among liis countrymen ; and though we did not expect it would bfi otherwise, yet still we hoped, that the valuable stock of presents, with which he had been possessed l)y the liber- ality of his friends in England, would be the certain means of raising him into conse- quence among the first persons of rank throuirhout the Society Islands. Tins, indeed, must have been the case, had he conducted himself with any degree of pru- dence; but he paid little attention to the repeated advice of his best friends, and laid himself open to every imposition. Through his means we were informed by the natives who cameoflT to us, that since Capt. Cook last visited this Island in 1774, tivo ships had been twice in this bay, and had left animals there, resembling those we had on hoard : but on a minute enquiry into nartiruiars, we found them to consist only of h')u:s, dogs, goats, a bull, atid the male of another animal, which they so imperfectly devnribed, that we could not conjecture wiiat it was. TIjesf; !»tii{)>J, they said, had come from a place, called ll^^eaia, which we suj)- posed to be Lima, the capital of Peru, and that these lute vi^it^trw were coiisetiuently Spaniards, They also told us, thai the first lime lisey arrived, ihev built a house, and left behind them two priests, a Uoy or servant, and a fourth person, whom th^y callea Mateema, much spoken of at this time ; taking away with them, when they sailed, four of the iia»' .s : that about ten month,* afterwards, the MUie ships returned, brinv^in^ i)ack only two < the natives, the other two having died :,t Lima ; and that, after a short stay, t ley took away the people they had left, bii that the house they had erected was now st (uling. On Wedn sday, the \iith, we were surround-: ed with, a, I incredible number of canoeiii, crowded rith people, who brought with them "^lei / of hogs and fruit : for the agree- able news of red feathers being on board the two ships, had been propagated by Omiah and his friends. A quantity of feathers* which might be taken from theGodyof a m-tit, would, early in the morning, have purchased a hog of forty or fifty pounds weight : but as the whole ships crew were! possessed of some of this precious article ol. trade, it decreased above five hundred per cent in its value, in a few hours: however, the balance, even then, was in our ii[ivour considerably ; and red feathers still preserv- ed a superiority over every other community. Some of the natives would not dispose of a hog, without receiving an axe in exchange ; as to nails, beads, and many other trinkets^ which during our former voyages, were held in high estimation at this Island, they were now so much dt pised, that tew would even deign to look at them. Having had little wind all this morning, it was nine o^clock before we could get into the bay, where we moored with two bowers. Soon after, Outjah'sb sister came on board, to congratulate hitn on his arrival. It was pleasing to observe, thai, to the honoiw of both of these relations, their meeting was marked with tjie expres- sions of the teuderest artection, more easily conceived than dt^scribed. When this afiV'C ting scene was closed, and the ship prof>er!y moored, Omiah attended C'apt. C<»ok on shore. The Captains firsti visit was paid to a personage, whom Oniiah rej)re!«^nted as a very extraordinary ono indeed, nothing ie "s, as he aKinumil, tht^u the^ god lioiubola. Ihey found kiim M-dti4 '< i i t .J : ." . -- ; ||; . 1 1 (.' t !,■.: » :| upon all occasions, mentioned them with the strongest terms of respect, and esteem, and even veneration. On this wcv sion, the Captain met with no chief of ;iny considerable note, excepting the aged peisen above described. Waheiadooa, kin^r ef Tiaraboo, (as this part of the Island is called by the natives) was now absent ; and \re were afterwards informed, that, thoug^h liii name was the same, he was not the same person as the chief whom Capt. Cook had seen here in 1774 ; but his brother, a youth of ten years of age, who had succeeded the elder Waheiadooa. AVe also discovered, that the celebrated Oberea was dead ; but that Otoo, and all onr other friends were alive. On the Captain's return from the house erected by the Spaniards, he found Omiah haranguing a very large company ; and with difficulty could disengage him to accompany him aboard, where he had thefollowinu; ini- portant matter to settle with the ships com- panies. Knowing that Otaheite, and the neighbouring Islands, could sup[)jy us plen- tifully with cocoa-nuts, the liquor ofwjiich is a most excel lent beverage, he wished tGi prevail upon those under his command to consent to be abridged, for a short time, of their allowance of spirits to mix with water. But as this, without assigning some power- ful reason, might have occasioned a general murmnr, he assembled our sbii>'s company, to couimunicate to them the intent of tiie voyage, and tiie extent of our future opt ra- tions. He took notice of the generoii- rewards offered, by parliament, to snch AND ROUND THE WORLD. 531 who ghould first t^iscover a cominiinicatian between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, in the NortUern Iltiinisphere, as well as to those who shall first penetrate beyond the- 89th deg. of northern latitude. lie said, he did not entertain a doubt, that he should find tlicin ready to co-operate with him in at- tempting to one, or both these rewards ; but, it would be necessary to be strictly econotnical in the expenditure of our stores and provisions, aj we had not a chance of getting a supply after our departure from fliese Islands. The Captain further observ- ed, that the duration of our voyaze would exceed by a year, at least, what Tiad been orig^inally supposed, by ouv having lost the oppoitunity ot proceeding to the north this sammei*. He begged them to consider the various pbstructions, and aggravated hard- ihips , they must yet labour under, if neces- sity should oblige us to be put to a short allowance, of any kinds of provisions, in a cold climate. He therefore submitted to them, whether it would not be most advi- leabletobe prudent in time, rather than run the risk of having their spirits exhausted, when they might be most wanted, to consent tu be without their grog at present, when we could supply its place with so excellent a liauor as that from the cocoa-nuts. He added, nevertheless, that he v/ould Leave the determination entirely to their own choice^ l^iis proposal did not remain a moment under consideration, and our o-^mmander had the satisfaction to find, that it was unanimously approved of. Upon this, he ordered Capt. Gierke to make a similar pro- posal to his people, which they also readily agreed to. The servinj; of grog was therefore immediately stojipfd, except on Saturday nights, when all tlie men had a full allow- ance of it, to gratify them with drinking the healths of their female lasses in England ; lestauiidst the pretty girls of Otaheite, they should be totally forgotten. Thnrsdiiy the 14th, we began some necessa- ry operations.siich as inspectingthe provisions in the main and forehold ; getting the casks of beet, pork, &c. out of the ground tier, and putting a quantity of ballast in their place. The ship \ya9 ordered \9 be caulked ^ which she stooU in much need of; having, at times, n>ade a considerable deal of water in our passage from the Friendly Isles, We also, put our cattle on shore, and afipointed two of our hands to look after them, while 8.raz- in^ ; not intending to leave any t these people are no stranj^ers This d^y some of our gentlemen, i^ their to the policy of accommodating themselves iValks, discovered, as they Ihou^it, a Uoman to present circumstances. The young chief, Catholic Chapel. They descnbcd the altar, at length, was directed to embrace Capt. which, they said, they had seen, and every Cook; and, as a confirmation of this tiieaty other constituent part of snch a place oj; of friendship, they e.vchanged names. After this ceremoRy was over, he and his friends accompanied the Captain, to dine with him on board. HereOmiah prepared, as a pre- sent for Otoo, the king of the whole Island, worship, yet, at the same time, they intima- ted, that two persons, who had the care of it, would not permit them to go in; on whidj account the Captain had the curiosity to survey it liim^elf The supposed chapel amaro, composed of red and yellow feathers ; proved to be a Toopapoo, wherein the bo^ly and, consideringthe place we were at, it was a of the late Waheiadooa was deposited, in i\ present of great value. The Captain endea- kind of state. It lay in a pretty large house, voured to prevail on him not to produce it enclosed with a low pallisadoe. I'he Toopa. now, wishing him to wait till he might have poo was remarkably neat, and resembled an opportunity of presenting it to Otoo with his own hands. But he entertained too good an opinion of liis countrymen, to be guided by his advice, he was determined to carry it ashore, and to entrust it with Wahe- iadooa, to be forwarded by him to Otoo, and yards, appeai'ed conspicftotts 'artvort^ otlid' added to the royal maro. By this manage- drnaments, which probably had b^nrecteiv- ment he weakly imagined, he should oblige edasa present from the SpaBTards. lliis both chiefs: on the contrary, he highly cloth, and some tassels of fearheris, sng'gesf^dl disobliged him, whose favour was of the to our gentlemen the idea of a ^'apel ; Arid most consequence at this part of the Island, their imagination supplied wlnatever tht without obtaining any reward from the was wanting to create a resembtan^ ; hfeai?- other. The Captain was prophetic on this ing that the Spaniards had visJted thiifeplSCe occasion ; for Waheiadooa, as he expected, migfit also oiiernte on their minch npon kept the maro for himself, and only sent to this occasion, and add to the probability o: poo was remarkably neat, and one of those little awnings over their larjre canoes. It was hung and covered with mats and cloths of a variety of cotouts, wbrcli had a beautiful effect. One p'l^ct trf Sc«rM broad-cloth of the length of f&th oi* fiVe Otoo about a twentieth part of what compos- ed the magnificent present, Tuestlay the 19th, it blew a hard gale, and we were obliged to veer out twenty fathom more of our best bowercable, as we rOde hard at our moorings. Most of the fresh its being a chapel. Some small offeringVoF fruits and roots seemed to be made daily ait this shrine, several pieces being now frased ictatorf!. h tlieir Roinaii lie altar, id evfiy place of ' intima- ftreof it, >n whids iosity to d chapel the bfkly ted, in a rjje house, he Toopa. resemV)led heir lar?:e with mats its, which )htfr oV fiVe fcft$ oihrt ^n tecteiv- rds. T^iis I'a^l ; fttid itever tht |it« : iTfeaif- thife place linds open hability of |)fFering's ot le daily at now frfesh. of altar, les ; within tfr. Two night iand |a(;e, as to When we ppendages )'s request, order, but imselves in informed, hs. ,. i\^\ the live e pi*epqred K » ' I AND nOtJND THE WORLD «3S fbr sea- Tlie next day, while the ships were unmooring, Omiah, Capt. Cook, and other gentlemen, landed, in order to lake leave of the youni? chief. While we were conversing with him. one of those persons they call fiatooas, from a persuasion that they {mssess the spirit of the divinity, presented himself before us. He had all the appearance of insanity ; and his only covering was a quan- tity of plantain leaves wrapped round his waist. He uttered what he had to say in a low squeaking voice, so as hardly to be un- derstood : but Omiah said he perfectly com- prehended him, and that he was advisiu!:? young Waheiadooa not to accompany Capt. Cook to Matavai, an expedition we did not know he intended, nor had the Captain ever made such a proposal to him. The Eatooa also predicted, that the ships won hi not arrive that day at Matavai. In this, how- ever, he was mistaken, though appearances, we confess, favoured his assertion, as, at the time, there was not a single breath of wind in any direction. While he was delivering his prophecy, a heavy sho'W'er of rain came on, which occasioned all to run for shelter, pxnept himself, who affected to despise it. Ilecontinued squeaking aljout half an hour, ami then retired. Little attention was paid to what he uttered ; and some of the natives l:ui?lied at him. The Captain asked the chief whether the enthusiast was an Earee, or a Tow-tow ; he answered, that he was a had man : and yet, notwithstiUJding this re;)lv, and the little notice taken of the mad prophet, superstition so far i»oveins the na- tives, that they absolutely believe such per- sons to be tilled with the spirit of the Eatooa. Omiah seemed to be well instrncled cnncerii- iiiuMhcm. He said, that jlnring the fits, with which they are seized, they know not any pel-son,' and that if any one of the inspired natives is a man of property, he will then iiive away every movearbie he possesses, if ills friends do not put them out of his reach ; and, when hererovers, beseems not to have tlie least re/me^braiifcfe of what he bad dotife (luring the tiitie oftlfe frtfiizy, or fit. We now returned on bdafd, atid soon t»ft>^r, hh^Mi breeze spri\J^ing op at ^ast, We got uttdeir sail, and the same evening anchored in Matavai Bay ; but the Discovery did not get in till the next morning ; consequtntly the man's prophecy was half fulfilled. In a jimrnal belonging to one on board the Dis- covery, we find this account of her setting; sail, and arrival at Matavai. " On the 23d, about nine o'clock, A. M. we weighed, and sailed, accompanied with several canoes, though the wind blew a storm, and we sail- ♦'d under double-reefed top-sails. In the evening the Kesolntion took her old station in Matavai Bay; but the wind suddenly shifting, and the breeze coming full from the land, we were driven three leagues to the leeward of the bay, by which we were reduced to the necessity of working all night to windward, amidst thunder, light- ning, and rain, and among reefs of coral rocks, on which we every moment expected to perish. We burnt false fires, and fired several guns of dist-ress ; but no answer from the Resolution, nor could we see any object to direct us, during this perilous night. In the morning of the 24th, the weather cleared up, and we could see the Resolution about three leagues to the windward of us, when a shift of wind happened in our favour, we took advantage of it, and by twelve at noon were safely moored within a cable's length of the Resolution." It is impossible to give an adequate ideaot the joy, which the natives expressed on om' arrival. The shores every where resound*- ed with the name of Cook : not a child that could lisp Toote was silent. The manner whereby these people express their joy is so different from our sensations, that were we to see persons stabbing themselves with sharks teeth, till their bodies were besmeared with blood, we should think they were pierced with the most frantic despair, and that it would be almost impossible to assuage their grief; whereas, beating their breasts, tearing- their hair, and wounding their heads and their bodies, are the mostsignificant signs of their gladness to see their friends. But, at ■the same time, they are ready to overwhelm •you with kiindness, and would grve ytm, for (he nioiireivt, dfll they have in the wOihj. y-et !■: kt •'im. tS»4 VOYAdE TOWARDS tm, I^OITFII POLE, m Iff m m M lii'. ?*■ !l -the very next hour, they will crave all back Bcain, and, like children, teaze you for every ;?ot"the whole Island, accompanied by a great number of the na- tives, 'n their canoes, came from Oparree, liis pla. e of residence, and having landed on Matavai point, sent a messenger on board, intimating his desire to see Capt. Cook there. The Captain accordingly went ashore, at- tended by Omiah ; and some of the officers. We found a vast multitude of fieople assem- bled on this occasion, in the midst of whom was the king, with his father, his two bro- thers, and three sisters. The Captain salut- ed him, and was followed by Omiah, who kneeled and embraced his legs. Though Omiah had prepared himself for ceremony by dressing himself in his best apparel, and be- haved wilh great respect and modesty, yet very little notice was taken of him. He tiiade the king a present of two yards of gold cloth, and a large tassel of red feathers ; and the Captain gave him a gold laced hat, a suit of fine linen, some tools, a quantity of red feathers, and one of the bonnets worn at the Friendly Islands. This visit heing over, the king, and all the royal family, accompanied Capt. Coftk on board, followed by several canoes, plentifully laden with all kinds of provisions. Each family owned a part, so that the Captain had a present from every one of them ; and each received from hi U! a separate present in return. Not long after the king's mother came on board, bringing with her some provisions and cloth, which she divided between the Cap- tain and Omiah. Though the latter was but little noticed at first by his countrymen, they no sooner gained information of his wealth, than they began to court his friend- ship. Capt. Cook encouraged this as far as laid in his power, being desirous of fixing him with Otoo. Intendinsr to leave all our European animals at this Island, we thought Omiah would be able to give the natives sotne instruction with regard to their use aneacock and hen, a turkey cock and hen, three geest,- and a gander, one duck luid a drake. All these we left at Oparree, in the possession of Otoo; and the geese and ducks betfan to breed before we .sailed. WefoiiBtl there a ifander, that Captain Wallishud»iv. en to Oberea ten years before ; we also met with several goats, and the Spanish hull, a fine animal of his kind, whom they kept tied to a tree, near the habitation of Otoo. He now belonged to Etary, and had been con. veyed from Oheitepeha, to this place, in order to be shipped for Bolabola. On Monday, the 25th, we sent to this bull> the three cows we had on board; also our English hull; but the horse, mare, and sheep, were put ashore at Matavai. Having thus disposed of these animals, we were now, to our great satisfaction, eased of the extraordinary trou- ble and vexation that had attended the bringing- this living cargo to such ;» dis- tanre. We shall here, for the entertainment of our readers, give an aceonnt of the reception the ships met with, on their arrival at this Island, together with some other particulars and transactions, all which we have taken from an original manuscript, .sent us by a gentleman on board the Discovery. A few hours after we were moored in the hay ot Otaite Peha, Omiah took an airing on horse- back, to the great astonisliment of the inlm- bitants, many hundreds of whom followed him with loud acclamations. Omiah, to ex- cite their admiration the more, was dresKied ^ f r AND ROUND THE tTORLD, ^- 63S Uft\i u: i iiiipm- ! fViend- :)ns"Klera- led Will' '%, whost» mid if wc have leU This c OpaiTf*', ustinf? uf a i and lien, iucU and a rree, in the ; and ducks We foiiwl llishad<4iv- we also met lUsh hnU, a ley Uept tied Otoo. He Vjeen con- ace, in ordef n Monday. e three oows ;ng'lish hid); ip, were put lins disposed to our great dinary trou- itteuded the such a dis- crtpa-pee in a suit of armour, and was mount- ed mid caparisoned with his swoni and pike, hke St. George going to kill the dragon, whuiu he very nearly represented, only that Oiniah had pistols in his holsters, of which the bold saint knew not the use. Oiniah, however, made good use of his arms; for when the crowd became clamorous and tron- hlesoine he every now and then pulled out a pistol, and fired it among them, which never tai'ed to send them scampering away. The ships were no sooner secured, than the sailors began strioping them of every foot of riff<4ing they had left ; for certainly no ships were in a more shattered condition. Our voyage from New Zealand, if not from the (Jape, might be said to be one continued se- ries of tempestuous weather, suspended only by a few intervals of sunshine ; and the em- ployment of our artificers at sea and on shore, a laborious exertion of their faculties to keep IIS above water. Here it was not only ne- cessary to strip the main-mast of the Disco- very, but to take it out, and carry it on shore, to be pro|>erly secured. This was a work of no small difficulty. Hete too we found it necessary to unship our stores of every kind ; Jo air and repack our powder ; new bake thit part of the bread that had contracted any dampness ; to erect the forge on shore ; in sl.ort, to set all hands at work lo refit the ships for the further prosecution of the voy- age. A uu'ssenger was dispatched from Captain Cook t» king Otoo, to acquaint him with our arrival, and to desire his permission to send tlie cattle he had brought from Eng- land, to feed in the pastures of Oparree. The king evoressed his joy on the return of Captain Cook, and readily gave his consent. He, at the same time, ordered one of his principal officers to accompany the iRessen- feer, in liis return, and to take wiw* him pre- sents of fjrsb provisions for the commanders of both sliips, 5ind to invite them t-o dine with him tlu ixex' day. Tliis invitation was ac- cepted, a id it was agreed between the two Captains, ihut their visit should be made witii as much state, as their present, circum- stances would admit. The marines and music were thjsrefore prdfired-to be in readi- 7 ness at an appointed hour, and all the rowers to be clean dressed. We were now in Ma- tavai harbour; and, on the 25th, jiN>ut noon, the commanders, with the principal officers and gentlemen, embarked «)n board the pinnaces, which, on this occasion, wtie decked in all the magnificence that silken streamers, embroidered ensigns, and other gorgeous decorations, could display. On»iah» to surprise the more, was dressed in a ('up- tain's uniform, and could hardly be distin- guished from a British ollicer. r rom M;\ta- vai to Oparree is about six miles, and we arrived at the landing-place at one o'clock,. where we were received by the marines al- ready under arms; and as soon as the com- pany/ were disembarked, the whole hand ut music struck up a grand military ninrcli,, and the procession began. The road fioiu. the beach to the entrance of the palace (about half a mile) was lined on both side» with natives from all parts, expecting to see Omiah on horseback, as the account of hi.% appearance on the other side of the Island,, as before related, had already reached the inhabitants on this. As he appeared ta them in disguise, he was not known ; they were not, however, wholly disappointed, as the grandeur of the procession exceeded, every thing of the kind they had ever seen. The whole court were likewise assembled* and the king, with his sisters, on the ap- ()roach of Captain Cook, came forth to meet, )im. As he was perfectly known to them*- their first salutations were frank and friendly, according to the known custom, of the Ota- Iieiteans ; and when these were over, proper attention was paid to every gentleman in. company, and that too with a politeness,, quite unexpected to those who had never been on this Lsland. As soon as tlie com- pany had entered the palace,, and were seat- ed, some discourse passed between the king and Captain Cook ; after which, Omiah was presented to his majesty, and paid him the usual homage of a subject to a sovereign of that country, which consists of little more than being uncovered before him, and then eiitered into a familiar conversation on the subject of his travels. The Jlarees, or kings of this cowjitry, are not above discouisinat '^V: I' ft ■r'\ k> JV f- rm IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 |50 ^^" ■■■ ■^ Uii |22 M 12.0 U|| ) 1 1.25 1 u lllllM: M 6" — ► '# "> /jr ■^'s ^j»*' Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 \:iC:i MAIN STRilT WnSTIR.N.Y. M5S0 (716) S72-4503 ^ <^ o^ ^r ^ mm &a6 VOYAGE TOW AMDS THE NORTHPOLE, with (he meanest of their subjects ; but Omiah, by beinsr a favourite of the Elareesof the ships, was now considered as a person of some rank. The kinju^, impatient to hear his utory, asked hitn ti Inindred questions, before Ii6 firave him time to answer one. He en- Suired about the E:iree-da-haf, or Great jng of Pretanne ; his place of residence ; his court ; his attendants ; his warriors ; his ■hips of war'; his niorai ; the extent of his possessions ; &i.c. Omiah did not fail to magw nify the grandeur of the Great King. He represented the splendooi* of his court, by the brilliancy of the stars in tlie firmament; the extent of his dominions, by the vast ex- panse of heaven ; the greatness of his power, by the thunder that shakes the earth. He said, the Great King of Pretanne had three hundred thousand warriors every day at his command, cloathed like those who now at- tended the Earees of the ships ; and more than double that number of sailors, who tra- versed the globe, from the rising of the sun, to his setting ; that his ships of war exceeiled those at Matavai in magnitude, in the same proportion, as those exceeded the small ca- ne at Oparree. His majesty appeared all aslonishment, and could not help interrupt- ing hiui. He asked, if what he said was true, where the Great King could find people to navigate so many ships as covered the ocean ^ and if he could have men, where he could find provisions for so large a multitude? Oiniah assured him, that in one city only, on the banks of u river, far removed from the .sea, there were more people, than were con- tained in the whole group of Islands with which his majesty was acquainted ; that the country was full of large populous cities; notwithstanding which, provisions were so ^f'.entiful, that for a ff'w pieces of yellow me- tal, like those of which he had seen many, (meaningr the medals given by Captain Cook to the chiefs) the Great King could purchase as liiiioh provisions as would maintain a sai- lor for a whole year. That jn the country of the Great King there are more than a hun- dred different kinds of (bur-footeil animals, from the size of a rat, to that of a stage erect- ed on an ordinary eanoe; and that all thes0 ••rituals are uumerous in their several kindst and propagate very ftist. Omkh hairing, hj this relation, obviated Otoo^sdouMs, advert- ed to his first questions. He said, the shipt of war, in Pretanne, were furnished with poo-poos, (guns) each of which would receive the largest poo-poo his ms^esty had yet seen, within it ; that some carried a hundred and more of those poo-poos, with suitable ac- commodations for a thousand fighting men, and stowage for aVi sorts of cordage, and warlike stores ; besides provisions and water for a thousand or two thousand days ; that they were sometimes abroad as long, fight, ing with the enemies of the Great King, that they carried with them frequently, in these expeditions, |>oo-poos that would hold a . tuvt AND ROUND T«1E WORLD ' ' '■ M \^^e% .w^re< the sole per forme n. Between tlie act9 same feats of arms were exbibiteci, by combatants with lances and clubs. One made the attack, the other stood upon the (tefeosiye. He who made the attack brand* islted his lance, and either threw, pushed, or ximi it ill aid of his club. He who was upon tlie defensive, stuck the point of his lance in the ground, in an oblique direction, so that tliK upper part rose above his head ; and by ol).s<;rving the eye of his enemy, parried his Mows, or his strokes, by the motion of his lance, and it was rare that he «vas hurt by the club. If his antagonist struck . at his legs, lie shewed his agility by jumping over the club ; and if at his head, he was no less nim- ble in crouching under it. Their dexterity consisted chiefly in the defence, otherwise the conibat.might have been fMal, which always ended in good humour. These entertain- ments, which generally last about four hours, are really diverting. In the horn-pipe they excel the Europeans, their masters, for they iiiid contortions of the face and muscles to the nimbleness of the foot that are inimita^ hie, and would^ in spite of our gravity, pro- voke laughter ; their country dances are well regulated ; and they have others of their own, that are equal to those of onr best theatres ; their comedy seems to consist of some simple story, made laughable by the manner of delivery, somewhat in the style of the merry-andrews formerly at Bartholo- mew fair. Had Omiah been of a theatrical cast, he doubtless might have very much im<^ proved their stage, for their performers ap- Iiear inferior to none in the powers of imita- tion. The play being over, and night approaching, our commanders took their leave, after inviting the king and his attend- ants to dine on board the Resolution. We vrere conducted to the water-side in the same manner as we approached the palace, and were attended by the kin^r and royal family. The next morning Omiah's mother, and se- veral of his relation'' arrived. Their meeting was too unnatural to be plensing. We could not Kee a woman frantically striking her face aud anus with shark's teeth, till she was all over besmeared with blood, without being hurt : .ion by their own servants. After dinner the king and his nobles were pressed to drink wine ; but most of them, having felt its power, declined tasting it ; one or two drank a glass, but refused a se> cond one. When the tables were cleared, the ladies joined the company, and then horn-pipes and country dances, after the English manner, commenced, in which they joined with great good humour. What con- tributed not a little to increase the pleasurn of the king, was a ppesent made him by Captain Cook of a quantity of the choicest red feathers that could be purchased at Am- sterdam. Red feathers, (as has been already obaervedi) are held in the highest estimaiioa mm '»' ^i:< ^ VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NOHTH POLE, in Otalieite, and in all the Society Islands, but more particularly by the chiefs of the former [slaiid, by whom they are used as amulets, or rather us propitiations to make their prHyer>i acceptable to the s:ood spirit, whom they invoke with tufts of those fea- thers in their hands, made up in a peculiar manner, and held up in a certain position with much solemnity. The ordinary sets of red feathers were collected by our oHicers and men all over the Friend Ty Islands: but those that were now presented to Otoo, were of a superior kind, in value as much above the ordinary red feathers, as real pearls are in value above French paste. They were taken from the heads of the paroquets of Tongataboo and Ea-oo-whe, which are of superlative beauty, and precious in propor- tion to their tineness, and the vivid glow of their precious colours. Here we learnt, that Captain Cook, in his former voyage, being in great distress for provisions, and having been plentifully supplied with them by Otoo, promised, that if ever he should return to Otaheite, he would make his majesty richer in ouravine, (precious feathers) than all the princes in the neighbouring Isies. This gave rise to an opinion, that it was to fiiltil this promise, that we were led so far out of our way, as we have remarked in its pro|>er place ; but there i9 much more reason to con- clude, that the strong easterly winds, which prevailed when we approached the southern tropic, made our direct course to Olaheite impracticable. Had the Captain regarded this promise to Otoo as inviolable, be would most certainly have shaped his course from New Zealand to the Friendly Islands, the nearest way, which would have shortened onr voyage several months ; unless we can suppose, that he had forgotten his promise, and that when he came within a tew days sail of his destined port, be recollected him- lelf, and then changed his direction to enable him to keep his word. To which of these causes it was owing we must leave to futu- rity ; for to us, who were not in the secret* it is to this day a mystery. We were ad- ▼anced some degrees to the eastward ot Hervey's Isles, which lie in latitude 19 deg. 18 uiin, S, and in 201 deg.^E. longitude. before we altered our course to the westward to make tur Amsterdam, which lies in 21 deg. 16. min. S. and I85dei<. K. longiinde whereas the Island of L lietea, of which Orni! ah was a native, lay in latitiuie 10. tle.vr, 4.5 min. and longitude 208 deg 35 niiii. Why our course to the former was preferred to ijie latter, involves the mystery. Though all public trade was prohihited as was usual, till the ships should he fur' nislied with fresh provision^, it wiis not ensy torestrain the men on y'nore from travere contiiiuijUy enticing them to de>ert. The liidies oi pleasure, in London, have n(»t halt' the winning ways that are practised by the Ote, heitean misi^es, to allure their giillunis. With the seeming innoceney of doves, iliey mingle the witness of serpents. 1'hey have, however, one quality peculiar to theuiselvcs, that is constancy. When once they have made *heir choice, it must he owning to the sailor nimself, if his mistress |)roves false to him. No women on earth are more ttuliit'ul. J'hey will eii-ieavour to gam all their lovers possess; but they will sntfer no one else to invade their property, nor will they einliez- zlejuiy part of it themselves, witluMjt hiivini,' first obtained <'onsent ; but that consent is not easily withhejd ; for they are incessant in their unportunities, and will never cease asking, while the sailor has a rag to bestow. During our stay at this Island, we hnd hardly a sailor, who liad not miule a very near connection with one or other of the feinale inhabitants ; nor, indeed, m^ny officers who were proof against the allure- ments of tiie better sort, who were no less amorous and artful, though more reserved, than the inferior order. The temperature of the climate, the plenty of tresh provisions. fish, fowl, pork, bread-fruit, vams (a kind ot sweet potatoes, which they nave the art oi stewing with their pork in a very savoury manner,) added to the delicious fruits of the Island, contributed not a little to make our Stay here even desirable; nor did idleness get possession of those who were most in- dolently inclined: we had not a vacant hour between business and pleasure that was un- employed : we wanted no colTee- bouses to kiU AND ROUND THE WORLD, 530 time; nor Vauxhalls for our evening enter- tainments. Every nightly assembly, in the )lantations of this happy Isle, is furnished, )y beneficent nature, with a more luxurious east thun all the dainties of the most sninp- tnous chamnetre, though lavished wilii un- limited profiision, and emblazoned with the most expensive decorations of art. Ten thousand lamps, combined and ranged in the most advantageous order, by the hands of the best artist, appear faint, when compared with the brilliant stars of heaven that unite their splendor, to illuminate the groves, the lawus, and streams of Oparree." In these f jysian fields, immortality alone is wanting to the enjoyment of all those pleasures which the poe»'s fancy has conferred on the shades of dap: .ed heroes, as the highest reward of heroic virtue. But amidst so many delights, it was not for human nature to subsist long without satiety. Our officers began to be imnctilious, and our seamen to be licentious. Several of the latter were punished severely for indecency, in surpassin;.? the natives by the shameless manner ofindulging their sen- sual appetites ; and two of the former went iishore to terminate an afiair of honour by the decision of their pistols. It happened, that neither of them were dextrous marks- men ; they vented their rage by the fury with which they began the attack ; and, haviug discharged three balls each, they re- turned on board without any hurt, except spoiling a hat, a ball having: pierced it, and grazed upon the head oi' him who wore it. It was, however, remarked, that these gen- tlemen were better friends than ever, during the remainder of the voyage. Thus far we have copied this journulist ; and now pro- ceed with our own history. On Tuesday, the 26th, as the Captain intended to continue here some time, we set up our two observatories on Matavai Point : and adjoining to them two tents were pitched, for the reception of a guard, and of such fieople as might be left on shore, in difllVrent departments. The command, at this station, vt'as entrusted to Mr. King, who likewise attended the astronomical observations. While we remained here, the crews of both thips were occupied in inany necessary opera- 3 tions. The Discovery's main-mast, that was shattered in the head, and carried ashore to be repaired, was rendered more firm than ever : the sails that had been split, and were otherwise rendered unfit for service, were replaced, the cordage carefully examined ; the mast new rigged ; the water casks repair- ed ; both ships new caulked; the bread inspected : in short, the whole repairs com- pleted, with more celerity and strength, than could have been expected in a place, where many convenien<:es were wanted, to fit us out for that part of our voyage which still remained to be performed. T!>iis day a piice of ground was cleared for a garden and plaiUed with several articles, few of which, will probably be looked after by the natives. Some potatoes, melons, and pine-apple plants, were in a fair way of succeeding be- fore we quitted the place. We had brought from the Friendly Islands several shaddock trees, which we planted here ; and they will in all probability succeed, unless their growth should be checked by the rame idle curiosity which destroyed a vine planted at Oheitepe- ha by the Spaniards. Akinyofthe natives assembled to ta^te the first fruit it nroduced, but the grapes being still sour, they consi- dered it as little better than poison, and trod it under foot. In that state, Omiah acci- dentally found it, and was rejoiced at the discovery ; for he was confident, that if he had but grapes, he could easily make wine. Accordingly, he had several slips cut oif from the tree, with an intention of carrying them away with him ; and we pruned, and )ut in order, the remains of it. Before w« lad been two days at anchor in Matavai bay, we were visited by all our old friends, whose names are mentioned in the narrative of Captain Cook's former voyage. Not one of them came with empty hands ; so that we had an amazing quantity o. provisions, with- out any apprehensions of exhausting the Island, which presented to our eyes every mark of the most exuberant fertility and abundance. Soon after we had arrived here, one of the Islanders, whom the Spaniards had carried with them to Lima, paid us a visit ; but, in bis exterior appearanct^, he was not dtftinguisbabU from tue rest of th« •40 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, countrymen. He &iill remeinfiered some Spanish words, among which the most fre- quent were Si Sennor. ^ \Vc also found here the youngs man whom 'we had called Oedi- dee, but whose real name is Heete-heete. Captain Cook had carried him from Ulietea, oil board his ship, in 1773, and brout^ht him buck in the year fuliowin!^, after he had vi- sit>?d the Friendly Islands, New Z«^aland, JBaster Island, and the Marriuesas. Me li;ul romefrom Rolaboia, of which he was a lui- tive, toOtaheite, about three months before, lii'wbabiy with tiiesole vie*voffjiatifyinsr his euriosity. He preferred the modes, and even dress of his countrymen to our's; for, thoiii^h Captain Cook gave him some clothes, which our Hoard of Admiraltv had thought pro- per to send for his use, arter a few anish ships had anchored in that bay the preceding night : and, to confirm this intelligence, he prmluced some coarse blue cloth, which, he said, he had got out of one of the ships. He further said, that Mateema was with the people, and that the two ships would be at Matavai in two or three days. These, and some other circumstances, which he mentioned, gave the story so much the appearance of truth, that our Commodore dispatched Lieutenant Williamson in a boat, to look into Oheitepeha bay ; and, in the ine.^n time, both ships were put into a proper posture of defence : for though Eng- land iiiid Sj»ain were at peace when we left England, we did not know but that a dif- fsrent scene mijjht, by this time, have been opened. U|)on enquiry, however, we bad reascm to imagine, that the relator of the story had impor.ed U|JK>n us ; and this was 4 put beyond all doubt, when Mr. Williamsoa returned the day following, who uuuie hii re|>ort, that he ha usto quit the Island, and thus de- Drive the inhabitantsof Otaheite-nooe of the advantages they might otherwise reap from otir s!ii(»s remaining there ; the natives of the two parts of the* Island being inveterHte enemies to each other. Since we arrived at Matiivai, the weather had been very unset- tled tdl the 29tli, on account of which, lie- fore this time we were unable to get equal allitiuies of the sun, for ascertaining the going of the time-keeper. In 1 ^ e evening f4 tJiis day, the Islanders niaoth from our land staticm, and from on board the ships. We conjectured that thir arose from their knowing some theft had been committed, and apprehending pu- nishment on that account. At length, wc became acquainted with the whole aftair. One of the surgeon's mates had made an ex- cursion into the country, to purchase curi- osities, and liad taken with him four hatchets for the purpose of exchange. He having; been so imprndenl as to employ a native to carry them, the fellow took an opportiuiity of running off with so valuable a prize. This was the reason of thesudt!)o, and chief of the district of Tettaha, and who had been comniaiider in chief ot the armament sent against Eimeo in 1774, ha. opened not to l)e at Matavai at this time, and therefore was not present at the consul- tations. It appeared, however, that he was no stranger to what had happened, and that he entered into the transactions with great eagerness and spirit ; for on the rumour of a war, it was computed, that near three hun- dred canoes were mustered in Matavai fiay, with stages to each, whereon sat from three to six chiefs in their warlike dresses; which seemed calculated for shew rather than use in battle. On their heads were large turbans wound round in many folds ; over that a monstrous helmet ; and on their bodies, in- stead of the light airy dress worn in com- mon, they were ii>cumbered by many gar- ments of tlieir own cloth, which added indeed to their stature, but which must disable them to exert their strength in the day of battle. Men of fertile imagination, fond of tracing the analogy of ancient customs, among the difTerent nations of the world, might possibly discover some similarity between these cum- brous dresses, and those of the knights of ancient chivalry, who fought in armour, It is certain that the Otaheitean >who fights on foot, must feel the same incumbrance from his heavy war-dress, as the ancient knight, who fought on hor^'back must have dbne, Ln'l 1 i '1 i vl 'HI 643 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, from his unweildy armoar : and there is no doubt but the former will, one time or other, be laid aside in the tropical Isles, as much as the latter is now in every other part of the world. On 'Monday the 1st of September, a mes- senger arrived from Towha, to acquaint Oton, that he had killed a man to be sacrificed to the Eatooa, with the view of implorine' the assistance of the deity against Eimeo. This solemn oblation was to be olfered at the great Morai, at Attahooroo, and Otoo's pre- senc.e was necessary on the occasion. 1 hat such kind of sacrifices constitute a part of the religious ceremonies of the Otaheiteans, had been asserted by Mons. Bougainville, on the testimony of the native whom he took to FVauce. In our last visit to Otaheite, we had satisHed ourselves, that such a practice, however inconsistent with the general hu- manity of the people, was here adopted. But this was one of those uncommon facts, con- cerning the truth of which many wfll not be convinced, umless the relator himself has had ocular proof to support his assertion ; for this reason, Capt. Cook requested of Otoo, that he might be allowed to accompany him, and being present at the solemnity, mi^ht obtain the highest evidence of its certainty. To this the king readily assented, and we im- mediately set out in the Captain's boat, ac- companied by our old friend Potatou, Mr* Anderson and Mr. Webber ; Omiah follow- ing us in his canoe. We landed in our way, on a small Island, lying off Tettaha^ where we found Towha and his attendants. After a little conversation between the two chiefs, on the subject of the war, Towha addressed himself to the Captain, soliciting his assist- ance. When the latter excused himself, Tuwha seemed displeased, thinking it rather extraordinary, that one who had ronstantiv declared himself the friend uf their Island, should now refuse to fi(>'ht against its ene- mies. Before we separated, Towha gave to Otoo two or three red feathers, tied up in a tuft, and a half-starved dog was put into a canoe that was tu accumpany us. Our party now reimbarked, taking with us a priest, who was to assist at the offering of the hu- lUau sacrifice. About two o'clock, we land- 6 ed at Attahooroo, when Otoo desired tlmt the sailors might be ordered to continue in the boat; and thatCafit. Cook, Mr. Ander- son, and Mr. Webber, would take off their hats as soon as they should come to the nio- rai. To this we immediately proceeded followed by numliers of men, and some* boys ; but not one woman was present. We fourid four priests with their assistants waiting for us ; and on />ur arrival the cerel monies commenced. The dead body nr sacrifice was in a small canoe, that lay on the beach, fronting the morai. Two of (he priests, with several of their attendants, were sitting by the ranoe that lay on the beacli ; the others at the morai. Our comnaiij stopped at the distance of twenty or thirty naces from the priests. Here Otoo placed himself; our gentlemen, atul a few others, standing by hun, while the bulk of the peol pie were removed at a greater distance. One of the assistants of the priests now brought a young plantain tree, and laid it down before the king. Another approach- ed, bearing a small tuft of red feathers, twisted on some fibres of the cocoa-nut husk, with which he touched one of Otoo's fett, and afterwards retired with it to his compa- nions. One of the priests who were seated at the niorai, now began a long prayer, and, at particular times, sent down young plan- tain trees, which were placed upon the sacri- fice. During this prayer, one of the natives, who stood by the officiating priest, held in his hands two bundles, in one of which, as we afterwards found, was the royal maro ; and the other, if we may be allowed the ex- pression, was the ark of the Eatooa. The prayer being finished, the priests at the morai, witii their assistants, went and sat down by those who were upon the beach, carrying the two bundles with them. Tliey here renewed their prayers ; during which, the plantain leaves were taken, one by one, at various times, from off the dead body ; which, being wrapped u|> in cocoa-leaves and small branches, was now taken out of the canoe, and laid upon the beach. The priests placed themselves round it; Some staodiof:, and others sitting ; and4ne«iur,inpreoftlieirN repeated sentences for nbout ten oiinutsro ♦"1 «ff«* »'' ■ #4 .T'"*Mv /V*^ ^v ^^' f? '.;« ■» ? f Ji ■« ■■♦ .# *. >. » !=tiJ in we and 011 e, otly - and t'lhe 3«"*. ,^-' W -4 •v.- •«' 'V^ *£■ -■S^^ ■.^^ >v H, *f:^. ^'.W-. ^ /^ ■•* riie body mid branc sca-sliore. nf the feel piiiyer, in by others, I feathers in repeating, of the inU mn tftken o;*inagre who, howe ta the man ttift of red fromTowli were takei this the ki feathers, nf, a kin t:irningr to Eutooa ;" i fiivourable carried a lit near which neatly carv placed on a ofred featli dead body, themselves mitted to gi seemed to i a quarter o and gestun tulate with ing; several demands, a himself, or him to grai he desired its chief, th nf the Islai indeed, the He then pr niiig tone, the prayer them piucti of the cor bundles. [ holding in ceived fror gave (hep AND ROUND THE WORLD. MS The body was noTf' stripped of Ihe leaves mid branches, and pluced parallel with the sea-shore. Then one of the prie&ts standing at the feet of the corpse, pronounced a loni; IM'iiyer, in which he was joined occasionally by others, each of them holding a tuft of red feathers in his hand. While this prayer was repeating, some hair was pulled ofTthe head of the intended sacrifice, and the left eye was taken out; both which being wrapped v.\i ill a green leaf, were presented to the king, w'lio, however, did not touch them, but gave to the man who brought them to him, the ttiH: of red feathers which he had received fromTowha. This, with the eye and hair, were taken to the priests. Not long after this the king sent them another bunch of feathers. In the course of this last ceremo* \]f, a king-fisher making a noise, Otoo, turning to Capt. Conk, said," That is the Eutooa ;" and he seemed to consider it as a favourable prognostic. The corpse was then CDiried a little way, and laid under a tree, near which were fixed three pieces of wood neatly carved. The bundles of cloth were placed on a part of the Morai ; and the tufts ufred feathers were laid at the feet of the dead body, round which the priests stationed theiiiselves ; and we were at this time per- mitted to go as near us we pleased. He, who seemed to be the chief priest, spoke for about a quarter of an hour, with different tones and gestures; sometimes appearing to expos- tulate with the deceased ; at other times, ask- ing; several questions ; then making various demands, as if the dead person had power himself, or interest Vi'ith the deity, to engage hiDi to grant such renuests; among which, he desired him to deliver Eimeo, Maheine its chief, the women, hogs, and other things of the Island into their hands; which was, indeed, the express object of the sacrifice. He then prayed near half an hour, in a whi- ning tone, and two other priests joined in the prayer, in the course of which, one of them plucked some more hair from the head nf the corpse, and put it upon one of the bundles. The high-priest now prayed alone, Itohling in his hand the feathers he had re^ ceived from Towha. Having finished, he gave (hepi to another priest^ who prayed in like manner; then all the lufts offcather* were pliifed. upon the bundles of cloth, which coiichided the ceremony at this place. The <-'^ that had been lately offered up. The priests and their attendants now gave a shout, and this proclaimed the ceremonies ended for the present. The evening being arrived, we were conducted to a house belonging in Po~ tatou, where we were entertained andlodired for the night. Having been informed, that the religious rites were to be renewed die next day, we wo\ild not e^xiit the place while any thing remained to be seen. Early in th*i morning of Tuesday th« 2nd« I'fi'f K t .1 ':■; , h- ill <>lf VOYAGE TOWARDS THE? NORTH POLE. we repaired to the scene of action : and soon ufterwatds a pig was sacrificed, and laid up- on ihe same scaA'oIJ with the others. About eight, Otuo took our party to the morai, where the priests, and a grea( multitude of people were by this time assembled. The two bundles occupied the place where they had been deposited the preceding evening: tlie two drums were in the front of the mo- rui, and (he priests were stationed beyond them. The] king placed himself between the drums, and desired the Captain to stand by him. The ceremony commenced iwith b^in^ing a young pfantam tree, and laying it at the king's feet. A prayer was then re- pented by the priests, holding in their harids several tufts of red, and a plume of ostrich feathers; which the Commodore had pre- sented to Otoo on his first arrival. When the priests had ended the prayer, they chang- ed their station, and placed themselves be- tween our gentlemen and the morai. One of them, the same who had performed the principal part the preceding day, began ano- ther prayer, which continued near half an hour. During this prayer, the tufts of red feathers were put, one by one, upon the ark of the Eutooa. Not long after, four pigs were produced, one of which was killed im- mediately, and the three others were taken to a neighbouring sty. One of the bundles was now untied ; and it contained the maro, with which the Otaheiteuns invest their kings. When taken out of the cloth, it was spread on the ground, at full length, before the priests. It is a girdle about fifteen feet in leni;lh, and one foot and a quarter in breadth, and is probably put on in the same manner as the common maro, used by these Islanders to wrap round the waist. It was ornamented with yellow and red fea" thers ; but principally with the former. One end of it was bordered with eight pieces, about the size and fi.sfure of a horse-shoe, whose edges were frinj^ed with blapk feathers, tlje other end was forked, having the points of vaiii)us lengths. The feathers were rang- ed ill two n»\vs, in square compartments, and j^rodiiced u pleasing eftect. They had been fust f'xt^d upon some of the cloth of the Island^ and then sewed to the upper end of 8 the pendant, which Capt. Wallis had Kft flying at Matavai. The priests pronounced a long prayer, relative to this part of (he ce- remony ; and after it was ended, the badge of royalty was folded up with great care and put into the cloth. The other bundle, which we have already mentioned, under the name of the ark, was next opened at one end ; but we were not permitted to approach near enough to examine its mysterious contents. The intelligence we obtained respectincr its contents, was, that the Eatooa ^or rather, what is supposed to represent him) was con. cealed therein. This sacred rejiository is composed o( the twisted, fibres of the husk of the cocoa-nut, and its figure is nearly cirrn- lar, with one end considerably thicker than the other. The pig that had been killed was by this time cleaned, and its entrails taken out. These happened to have many of these convulsive motions which frequently appear in different parts, when an animal is killed ; and this was considered as a very favourable omen to the intended expedition. After havinjT been exi)osed for some time, the entrails were carried and laid down be- fore the priests, one of whom closely inspect- ed them, turrrhig them for (his purpose g:ently with a stick. Having been sufhciently ex- amined, they were thrown into the fire. The sacrificed pig, and its liver, heart, &c. were now put upon the scaflTold where thp dog had been deposited ; and then all the fea- thers, except the ostrich plume, being en. closed in the ark, an end was put to (he whole solemnity. Four double canoes remained upon the beach, all the morning, before the place of sacrifice. A small platform, covered with palm-leaves, fastened in mysterious knot!?, was fixed on the fore-part of each of these canoes : and (his also is called a morai. Bome plantains, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, fish, and other articles, lay upon each of these naval morals. The natives said, •that they belonged to the Eatooa, and that they were to attend the fleet that was to be sent cmt a^inst Eimeo. The unfortunate victim onered on this occasion, was, to appearance a middle-aged man, and was one of the towettclass of the people. But it did uot t i AND ROUND THE WORLD 645 appear that thry bod fijrtfd upon him on a^ small atones rai!«ed in Tarious parts of the cuiint of his having committed any par- pavenieHt, some with hits of cloth fasti^ned tc'ilar crime, that desorrved death. It is round them, others entirely cnverod with it '; certain, however, that .hey usually select and, upon the side of the I'uiijre pile, fronting suchguiltv persons for their sacrinccs, or the area, are a great number ol fiieces of else, vagabondis, whohave no visible w:iy id' carved wood, in which their jrods are syjipos- procuring an honest liveliliood. Our ^ron- ed to reside occasionally. There is a heap tlemen naving examined the appearance of stones, at one end of the larye scaffidd, of the body of the unhappy sufferer, now with a sort of platform on one side. On this offered up to the object of these peoplt-''** they - ed. This horrid practice, though no consi- wise of his family, and some other persons of deration whatever can make it cease to be distinguished rank. It differs little, except detestable^ might, perhaps, be thought less in extent, from the common morais. Its detrimental, in some respects, if it contribut- principal part is a large oblong pile of stones, ed to impress any awe for the deity, nr about thirteen feet in height, and contracted veneration for relig'on, upon the minds of towards the top, with a quadrangular area the spectators. But this was so far from onea<'h side, joocely paved with pebbles, being the case on the late occasion, that under which the bones of the chiefs are though a vast multitude of people had as- (lepn«ited. Not far from the end nearest the sembled at the morai, they shewed very little sea, is the place of sacrifice, where is a< very reverence for what was transacting. And larije whatta.or scaffold, on which the oflen- €llniah happening to arrive, aftertheceremo* in;r>j 7 li i i;i r»Ti ,,M' i\ CHAP. VIII. lif'f^)if»}rk f:r Malavai ; Conference with Towha respecting the hwnan Sacrijice ; Description oj {he fh-eiiiit ; Dinner given by Omiah ; Exhibition oJ Fire-norlcs ; Remarkable Method oj mai*iug a Preaeni of Cloth ; Manner qf'presermng , for many Months, the dead Body of a Chief ; Ana- I her human Sacrijice offered ; Riding on Horseback, Matter of great Astonishment to the no- lives; Otoos's, great Attention to prevent Thefts, ^'c, Animals given to him by Capt. Cook; Audience given to Etary, 8fc. Manner of fighting two War Cannes ; Naval Power, &c. A T the close of the very extraordinary ..oL scene, exhibited at the morai, and par- ticularly described in the last chapter, onr party embarked about twelve o'clock, in order to return to Matavai ; and, in their way, paid a visit to Towha, who had conti- nued in the little Island, where they met him the preceding" day. ^onie conversation on public atiairs passed between Otoo and him ; and the latter entreated Capt. Cook, once more, to join them as an ally, in their war against Eimeo. By his positive refusal he entirely lost the good opinion of this chief. Before they separated, he interrogated our trentlemen concerning the solemnity, at which they had been present ; and asked, particularly, if it answered theirexpectalions; what opinion they entertaineiJ of its efficacy ; and whether such acts of worships were fre- quent in their own comitry ? They had been silent during the celebration of the horrid ceremony ; but, as soon as it was comph ted, freely expressed their sentiments upon the subject , to Otoo, and his attendants ; conse- 3uently Capt. Cook did not conceal bis etestation of it, in this conversation with Imvha. Exclusive of the barbarity of the Wuddy custom, he nrgert- ed his arguments with such spirit, that the chief appeared to be extremely angry ; espe- cially, on being informed, that if he had ta- ken away the life ofaman in England, as he had done here, his rank would nut have protected him from nn ignomious death. Upon this, he exclaimed, maeno ! maeno > (vile ! vile !) and would not hear a syllable more about it. Many of the natives were present at this debate ; particularly the at- tendants and servants of Towha ; and when Omiah mentioned the |iunislinientthat would in England be inflicted upon the greatest man, if he dared to kill the meanest servant, they listened very attentively ; and perhaps, on this subject, they thongiit ditierently from their master. Leaving Towha, our gentlemen proceed- ed to Oparre, where Otoo solicited them to pass the night They landed in the evening ; and, on their waj^ to his habitation, had an opportunity of observing how these peo- ple amuse themselves, in their private lieevas. They saw about a hundred of them sitting in a house in the midst of whom vere two wo- men, and an old man behind each of them, beating gently upon a drum ; and the women, at intervals, singing with great softness and delicacy. The assembly were ve;y atten- tive, and seemed, as it were, absorbed in the pleasun' the music gave them ; few of theni taking any notice of the strangers, and the pel-formers never once ceasing. U'lini the party urrived at Otoo's house, it \>ms almost ^m 548 rOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. dark. * Here they were entertained with one of their piiiiiic heevas, or plays, in which his) three sisters presented the principal cha- racters. Tiiis they call a heeva raa, and no person i^ sutTered to enter the house or area, where it is exhibited. This is always The case, when the royal sisters are the per- formers. Tiieir dress, on this occasion, was truly elegant and picturesque, and they ac- quitted themselves in a very distinguished manner ; though some comic interludes, wherein four men were the performers, seem- ed to afford greater entertainment to the audience, which was numerous. The Cap- tain and his companions proceeded the next morning, to Matavai, leaving Otoo at Opar- re ; bat his mother, sisters, and many other women, atteiTded the Captain on board, and Otoo followed a short time after. While Otoo and Capt. Cook had been absent from the ships, they had been sparing- ly snpplierl with fruit, and had not many visitors. After their return, we had abund- ance of company and provisions. On the 4th, a party of us, among whom was Otoo, dined ashone with Omiah, who provided excellent fare, consisting offish, fowls, pork, and puddings. Dinner being over, Capt. Cook accompanied Otoo back to his dwel- ling, where he found all his servants busy, in getting a quantity of provisions ready for him. Amongst other articles, there was a large hog* which they killed in his presence. There was also a large pudding ; the whole .Process in making which the Captain saw. It wascomposed of bread-fruit, plantains, taro, und palm or pandunus nuts, tacii rasped, .scraped, or beat up fine, and baked by itself. A quantity of the juice of cocoa-nut kernels, was put into a kind of wooden tray. The other articles hot from the oven, were put into this vessel ; together with some hot stones, in order to make the contents simmer. Three or four persons were employed in stirring up the several ingredients, till they were perfectly incorporated, and the juice of the cocoa-nut was turned to oil ; and ^h« whole mass, at last, was nearly of the con js- tency of a hasty -pudding. The hog being baked, and the pudding being m%ide, they, together with two living hogs, some bread- fruit, and cocoa-nuts, were sent on board (]»e Captain's ship in a canoe, followed by him ancl all the royal family. A young ram, of the Ca»e-breed, that had lieen lambed, and carefully brought up on board Capt. Cook's ship, was killed by a dog the following day. This was the more to be regretted, as it was the only one of that breed that we had ; and only one of the English breed was now remaining. On the 7th, in the evening, we exhibited some tire-works before a vast concourse of people, some of wliom were highly entertain- ed, but the greater number were niuch terrified with the exhibition ; insomuch, that they could hardly be prevailed on to keep together, to see the whole of the entertain. ment. What concluded the business, was a table-rocket. It flew off the table, ami dis- pensed the whole crowd in an instant ; even the most resolute amongst them now fled with precipitation. A party of us dined, the next day, witli Oedidee, on fish and pork. The hog, wliith weighed about thirty pounds, was alive, dressed, an«l upon the table, within the hour. Some time after we had dined, Otoo appear^ ed, and enquired of Capt. Cook, if his beliy was full ? who answered in the affirmative. " Then come along with me," said Otoo. The Captain accordingly attended him to his father's, where he saw several people employed in dressing two girls, with fine cloth, after a very singular fashion. There were several pieces of cloth, and the one end of each piece was held over the heads of tlie girls, while the remainder was wrapped round their bodies, under the arm-pits. The upper ends were then suffered to fall down, and hang in folds to the ground, over the other. Round the outside of all, were then wrapped several pieces of cloth of various co- lours, which considerably increased the size; it being five or six yards in circuit ; and the weight of this singular attire, was as much as the poor girls could well support. To each were hung, two tnanu s, or breast-plate, in order to embellish the whole, and gave it a picturesque appearance. Thus equipped, thev were taken on board the ship, toj^elher with several hojfs, and a" quaulify of fruit, -♦-^ ^il^,.-: -liefa,. ^i. ■W" ^5 .■V**9««b1W»i*««^: :♦*-;•■ »A. •=*• ,-■■ .iSv:;^.. J, rf.. .••*^-T-^ •Av'ii-W-- %^' <■'*'■, *i< :'#• ,r^ "^ ■•St^ *■ =9. * ¥* ■»**■" :>;;.■ p:-^>: .«, ;^ WSfi ■•> 11 .^n|: ■%^ 4^%#'- ■* ;iJ * ^lA -L^^jaM _ .-jikiiu&.t -fe ji^.. ._ * . j-^i.-^.-^. *^^--'",-' ' # ■ftff which, sent tc Those ^ called perform cloth a practise both Ca preseate tiie (lay, Ca hogs, an liog-, and Other pr Great qi can^ht hi sdccessivf board (he Otoo w wants, am tbelOth, 1 with a [)l£ formers, ai gant, muel any of th( The prii Captain he was to sei residence o to be the t weliknew, it was ]y\ all respects ! which the posited, eover, with up in cloth, son who ha and placed ipcifect vi< ted within t paoo. Tlie ted, he orna cloths, disp( ducea pleas in every par lytpbe be! wnell proce^ •fthe hottt above four n • shrinking' AND ROUND THE WORLD * V > 549 which, toffetlier with this clotlj, was a pre- sent to Oapt. Cook from Otoo's faUier. Those who are dressed in this manner, are called atee ,• but, this ceremony is never performed, except where large presents of cloth are to be made. We never saw it practised xnton any other occasion ; but both CapK Cook and Capt Gierke liati cloth preseoted to them afterwards, wrapped round the be^«^^rs in the same manner. The next day, Capt./lJook received a present of five hogs, and some frnit, from Otoo ; and one liojf, and some fruit from each of his sisters. Other provisions were also in great plenty. Great quantities of mackarei had been canght here by the natives, for two or three successive days; some of which were sold on board the ships. Otoo was equally attentive to supply our wants, and contribute to our amusement. On the 10th, he treated a party of us at Oj)arre, with a play. His three sisters were the per- formers, and their dresses were new and ele- gant, mueh more so than we had met with in any of these Islands. The principal objects, however, that the Captain had now in view, iit goini? to Oparre, was to see an embalmed corpse, near the residence of Otoo. On enquiry, he found it to be the remains of Tee, a chief whom he well knew, when he last visited this Island. It was lyin^ in an eleg'ant toopapaoo, in all respects similar to that at Oheitepahe, in which the remains of Waheiadooa are de- posited. We found the body was under fover, within the toopapaoo, and wrapped up in cloth. At the Captain's desire, the per- son who had the care of it, brought it out, and placed it on a kind of bier, so as to give L |;tifect view of it ; b\it we were not admit- ted within the pales that enclosed the toopa- paoo. Tlie corpse having been thus exhibi- ted, he ornamented the place with mats and cloths, disposed in such a manner as to pro- duce a pleasing etfect. The body was entire in every part ; and putrefaction seemed hard- ly tp be begun, nor the least disagreeable smell proceeding from it ; though this is one of the hottest climates, and Tee had been above four months dead. There was, indeed, a shrinking of the muscular parts and eyes , 5 a very considerab they are exhibitet wards, the interva but the hair and nails were in their originaV state, and the several joints were pliable. On enquiry into their method of preserving their dead bodies, we were informed, ihut, soon after they are dead, they are disembowelled, by drawing th«? inteslmes, and other viscera, out at tlie anus, and the whole cavity is stuffed with cloth ; that when any moisture appeared, it was immediately dried up, and the bodies ribbed all over with perfumed cocoa-nuit-Oi>l ; which, frequently repeated* preserved them several months; a*ter which they moulded away gradually. Omiali in- formed us, that the bodies of all their great men, who die A natural death, are thus pre- served ; and are exposed to public view for ' e time after. At first, every fine day ; after- s become greater and greater ; and, at last, they are very seldom to be seen. We quitted Oparre in the evening, leav- ing Otoo, and ail the royal family. The Captain saw none of them till the 12th ; when all, except the chief himself, honoured him with a visit. He was gone, they said, to Attahooroo, to assist at anotlter human sa- crifice, sent by the chief of Tiaralioo to he oftered up at the morai. This second in- stance, within so short a i»eriod, wasa melan- choly firoof^ that the victims of this bloody superstition are very numerous amongst this humane people. The Cajitain would have been present at this sacrifice also, had he been earlier informed of it,* but n(»w it was too late. For the same reason, he omitted being present at a public transaction, at Oparre, the preceding day, when Otoo, willi great solemnity, restored to the adherents of the late king Tootaha, the lands and posses- sions, of wliiV^h, after his death, they had been deprived. Otoo returned the next evening, from exer- cising the most disagreeable of his royal duties; and, the next day, being honoured with his company, the Ca|)tains Cook und Clerke, mounted on horseback, and rode round the plain of Matavai, to the sisfonish- ment of a vast train of spectators. Once oi twice, before this, Omiah had, iiulee~^^>oni ]^)lal)o1a, and begged he would act (Mil !>:Miy him thither. The Captaio readily coif^sni'd. expecting to meet with something di;t't vMii; his notice. Accordingly, they set out rm i!t«- Kiili, attendey Mr. Anderson. >J«.t|tinir liow-ever, occurred, that was inter- tsfiim or curious, Etary and his followers i)iesc!ited same coarse cloth and hogs to 6 Otoo, with some ceremony, and a setspeecli, After this, a consultation was held between them and some other chiefs, about their expedition to Eimeo. Etary, at first, disap. I)roved of it ; but his objections were at ength over-ruled. It appeared, indeed, tlie next day, that it was too late to deliberate upon this business ; for, in the evening, a messenger arrived with intelligence, tliat there had been some skirmishes, butlhat tlie loss or advantage, on either side» was incon- siderable. Capt. Cook, Mr. Anderson, and Oniai, in the morning of the 18th, went again to Oparre, accompanied by Otoo ; takiiig with them the sheep which the Captain intemleil fOtoo, by one nf his nRitisters ; and then the dispute with Eimeo .was f'ormifrly discussed. The deputies of this chief were advocates for prosecuting the war \vith ri- gour, advising Otoo to offer a human sacri- fice on the oeoasion. A chief, wlio con- slantly attended tlie person of Otoo, opposed it, seeminarly with great strength ot argu- ment. Tiie Captain was now convinced that he never entered heartily into the spirit' of this war. Havinir dined with Otoo, our party returned to Matavai, leaving him at Oparree. On Friday, the 19th, we were very spa- ringly supplied with fruit, as we had been the day betore. Otoo being informed of this, he, and his brother, who had particularly attached himself to Capt. Clerke, came from Ojmrree, with a large supply for both ships. ]Vext day, the 20tli, all the royal family came with presents, so tiiat now we had more provisions than we could consume. Oin* water and wood having been already taken on board, nothing remained but to strike the tents, and bring off the things belonging to the oHicers and men who were stationed on shore ; and the Commodore 6e?au to think of quitting the Island, that he might have sutncient time for visiting others in the neighbourhood. We therefore removed our observatories and instruments from the shore, and bent the sails. Several of the sailors being very desirous to stay at Otaheite, Otoo interested himself in their hehalf, and endeavoured to prevail on Capt. Cook to grant their request ; but he rejected peremptorily every application of that kind, though often repeated ; nor would he suffer any of the natives to enter on board, .though many would gladly have accompanied us wherever we intended to sail, and that too alter they were assured, that we never in- tended to visit their country any more. Some of the women also would have followed their Ehoonoas.or Pretanne husband;, could they have been permitted ; but our Commander was equally averse to the taking any of the natives away, as to the leaving any of our own people behind. He was sensible, that when once cloyed with enjoyment, they would reciprocally pine for home, to which it would not be in their power to return ; and that for a little present gratification, they would risk the' happiness of the remaining part of tlieir Ivres. The king, when he found he could not obtain his wishes in this respect, applied to Capt. Cook for another favour, which was to allow our carpenters to make him a chest, or press, to secure the treasures he had accumulated in preSents ; he even begged, that a bed might be placed in it, where he intended to sleep. This re- quest the Captain readily granted ; and while the workmen were employed, in mak- - ing this uncommon piece of furniture, they were plentifully supplied with baibicued hogs, and snch dainties as the country afford- ed, and were so carefully attended and pro- tected, that they did not loose so much as a single nail. It was some of these work- men that Otoo was so desirous to retain ; but they were of too much conseqnenr'e on board to be parted with, had there been no other motive for bringing them awaj ; nor was Otoo much concerned about the depar- ture of the rest. While he U'as constant in attending the operations of our carpenters, Omiah had frequent conferences with him, on the subject of his travels. He astonished him more by the relation he gave of the magnificence of the Morais in Pretanne* than by all the wonders with which he had before surprised him. When he told him that the king's Morai was open to all comers, and tliiit the persons of the deceased kings were to be seen as perfect to appearance as when in the vigour of }[outh, he seemed to lament, that his date of existence was to be limited with his Ufe ; and that his remains were to perish, while his Morai preserved no memorial, that he had ever had a being. Omiah endeavoured to impress him with an idea of the magnificence of the tombs of the dead that were to be seen in the Morais of Pre- tanne ; but having nothing to compare them to, he was unable to make himself sufficiently understood ; nor was he more successful in de- scribing the solemn grandeur of the places of publJc worship, where the people as$.em- bled every seventh day, and at other stated times, to offer up their prayers to the good Spirit. Of the splendour of the theatres, he VOYAGE lOWAlitis' THE NORtti POLE, 5&2 could speak more invttUisi'jiy. When Omiah. tuld Otoo of 'the naagnitiide of tit? palaces, aud houses, in Pretanne ; of their liecoration and furniture ; of the extent of their plantations ; and the multitude of liv- ing aniinah with which they were stocked ; he listened to him with peculiar attention, as not doubting; the truth of his relation ; 'but: when he attempted to 'describe the roads, and the rapidity with whtch people travel in carriages, drawn by four footed animals, he seemed all amazement: no child could ever express greater surprize at Gulliver's travel- ling to the moon on ganzas, than Otoo, when Omiah assured him, they could traverse an extent of ground equal to the whole Island «f Otaheite, in a single day. On Sunday the 21st, Otoo came on board, to infonn us, thnt the war canoes of Matavai, find of three other districts, were going to join those belonging to Oparree, and that part of the Island, where there would be a general review. The squadron of Matavai was soon in motion, and after parading for some time about the bay, assembled ashore, near the middle of it. Capt. Cook now went in his boat to take a survey of it. What they call their war canoes, which are those •with stages whereon they tight amount to about sixty in number ; and there are nearly as many more of a smaller size The Captain was ready to have attended theni to Oparree, but the chiefs resolved that they would not move till the next day. This happened to be a fortunate delay; as it afforded him an opportunity of getting some insight into their manner of fighting. He therefore de- sired Otoo to give orders, that some of them sfaouhJ go through the necessary manoeuvres. Accordingly two of them were ordered out into the bay ; in one of which Otoo, Capt. Cook, and Mr. King embarked, and Omiah went on board the other. As soon as they hars on the stages flourished their weapons, au'l played a variety of antic tricks, witich could answer no other purpose than that of nmslng their passions, to lire- pare them for the onset. Otoo stood by the sid« of one stage, giving the necessary orders wlien to advance, and when to retreat. Grot judgment, and a very quick eye seems to be requisite in this department, to seize every advantage, and to avoid every disad- vantage. At length the two canoes closed stage to stage ; and after a severe, though short conflict, all the troops on Otoo's staf^e were supposed to be killed, and Omiah nnd his associates boarded them ; when inslainjy Otoo, and the paddlersin his canoe, leaptd into the sea, as if reduced to the necessity of preserving their lives by swimming. But, according to Omiuh's representation, tlieir naval engagements are not always conducted in this manner : for they sometimes lash the two vessels together head to head, and fi«fht till all the warriors on one side or the other are killed ; yet this close combat is never practised, except when the contending par- ties are determmed to conquer, or die. In- deed, in this instance, one or the other must infallibly happen ; for they never give quar- ter, unless it be to reserve tlieir prisoners for a more cruel death the day following All the power and strength of the Society Islands lie solely in the navies. A general enga<«e- ment on land we never heard of; and all their decisive actions are on the water. When the time and place of battle are fixed by both parties, the preceding day and niirht are spent in feasting and diversions. When the day dawns, they launch the canoes, uiake every necessary preparation, and \Aitli the day begir. the battle; the fate of which, in general, decides the dispute. The v.mqiiish. ed endeavour to save themselves by a preci- pitate flight ; and those who reach the shore, fly, with their friends, to the mountains ; for the victors, before their fury ubates, spare neither the aged, women, nor children. They assemble the next day, at the Morai, to re« turn thanks to the Eatooa for (he victory, and offer there the slain and the prisoners, as sacrifices. A treaty is then set on foot; and the conquerors obtain usually their own terms ; whereby large districts of land, and even whole Kslands, sometimes change their proprietors and masters. Omiah said he was once taken prisoner by the men of IV- labola, and conducted to that Island, where AND ROUND THE WORLD 653 fte, fln«} many otiinrfi wmild have suffered deafli the next day, had they not been for- tuoata emmi^h to escape in the night. Wiien the mock-^i;$ht was concluded, Oiniah put on his 9uit of armour, mounted n stage in one oftiie canoes, and thus equip- ped, was paddled all alont; thesiioreOt* the bay, tliat every one miirht have a perfect view of him. His coat of mail, however, did not engagr^) the attention of the multitude so much as was expected ; the novelty beings in a great decree lofit upon some of them, who .had seen it before; and there were others, who had conceive(i such a dislike to Omiali, from his folly and imprudence at this place, that they would hardly look at any thinq; that was exhibited by him however singular and new. Tliis day notice had been p:iven to Otoo of our intention to sail with the first fair wind; inconsequence of which on the 22nd, in the morninz, became on board, de- siring to know when we proposed to depart, and, at the same time expressing great con- cern at our sudden resolution. He brought with hirq hogs, fruit, and other valuable pro- ductions of me Island. No people on earth could express their gratitude with more seeming sincerity and cordiality, than the king and his chiefs, for the presents they had received, nor were onr commander and offi- cers wanting in suitable returns. The Cap- tain having heard of there being a good har- bour at Eimeo, had informed Otoo and his party, that he would visit that Island in his passage to Huaheine; and they proposed now to accompany him, and (hat thejr fleet should sail, at the same time, to reinforce Towha. Being ready to take our departure, the Captain submitted to them the appoint- ment of the day. The Wednesday following was fixed upon, when he was to receive on board Otoo, his father, mother, and the whole family. Tliese jMjints settled, Captain Cook proposed setting out immediately for Oparree, where all the flet^t was to assemble this day, in order to be reviewed. But us he was getting into his boat, news arrived, that a treaty had been concluded between Towha and Maheine, and that Tovvha's fleet return- ed to Attahooroo. From this unexpected event, th« war canoes, instead of rendezvous- 4 B ing at Oparree, wert ordered to their respec- tive districts. Captain Cook, however, fol- lowed Otoo to Oparree, accompanied by Mr. King and Omiab. Soon after their arrival, a messenger from Eimeo made known the conditions of the peace, or rather truce, it being only for a limited time. The terms being disadvantageous to Otaheite, Otoo was censured severely, whose delay, it was sijiid in sending reinforcements, had obliged Towha to submit to a disgraceful accommodation. It was at the same time, currently renorted, that Towha resenting the treatment he hiEid received, had declared, that immediately af- ter our departure, he would join his forces to those of Tiaraboo, and attack Otoo. This called upon the Captain ^o declare, that he was determined to espouse the interest of his friend ; and that whoever presumed to attack him, by any combination of |)arlies, should experience the weight of his displeasure, when he returned ,to that Island. This de- claration, probably, had the desired effect : for, if Towha did entertain any such hostile intention at first, we heard no more of the report. Whnppai, the father of Otoo, highly disafiproved of the peace, and censured Tow- ha for concluding. This old chief wisely considered, that Capt. Cook's goin^ with them to Eimeo, might have been of singular service to their cause, though he should not tak'- an active part in the quarrel. He there- fort, concluded, that Otoo had acted pru- dently in waiting for the Captain, though it prevented his giving that early assistance to Towha which he expected. While we were discoursing on this subject, a messenger ar- rived from Towha, desiring the attendance of Otoo the next day, at the Morai in Attab» hooroo, to return thanks to the Eatooa for the peace he had concluded. Capt. Cook's company was requested, but being much out of order, chose to decline attending them. Desirr IS, however, of knowing what cere- mony :night be exhibited on such an occa- sion, he sent Mr. King and Omiah to observ* the particulars, and returned on board, at- tended by Otoo's mother, his three .sisters^ and several other women. At first, the Captain imagined that this nuniv^ious train came into his boat, in order to g^eta i>assaga ?• ■>!' I^f if.'; ;t' ■-«»!■ If,, .>..4. tftj-i \ OVAGE TOWARDS TflEiNSmTH POLE, to IMatavai. Vttit tli*:*^' ussnreil liim, they in- temJed passing Hip ui^lit on hoanl, for Hie purpose ofctiriMCf the disorder he complained of, which was a rheumatic i)ain, extending from the hip to the foot, lie accented tlie friendly offer, had a bed prepared for them npon the cabin floor, and sunmitted himself to their diractions. He was firnt desired to lie down amongst them, when all tho<$e who roil Id cfet near him, began to squeeze him with both hands all over the body, but more particularly on the parts complained of, till they made his bones crack, and his flesh be- came almost a mummy. In short, after suf- fering this severe discipline about a quarter of an hour, he was ha|»py to gel away from them. The operation, however, gave him iuimediate relief, and encouragejl him to un- dergo a repetition of the same discipline, bo- fore he retired to bed ; and it was so effectual, that he found himself pretty easy the whole night after. His female physicians very obligingly repeated their prescription the next morning, beiore they left him, and again in the evening, when they returned-; after which, the cure being fierfected, tfiey took their leave of the Captain the following morning. This is called by the natives ro- mee, an operation far exceeding that of the flesh-brush, or any external friction. It is universally practised among these Isiynder-. Capt. Wallis, and his first lieutenant, had the same operation performed upon them. If at any time a |>erson ap{>rars languid and tired, and sits down by any of tliem, fliey practice the romee upon his Icigs, ami it al- ways has an exceeding trood efieot. On Thursday the 2oth, Otoo, Mr. Kinff, and Omiah, returned fiom Attahooroo ; and Mr. King favoured ns with a narrative of what he hud seen to the following purport. " At sun set, we embarked in a canoe, an I answered no ; that he was his taio ; and that I was ordered to repair to Attahool roo, to let him know it. Omiah then enter- ed into a long conversation with this chief, but I could not gather any information from him. On my returning to Otoo, he desired that I would go to eat, and then to sleep ; in consequence of which Omiah and I left him. On my questioning Omiah on that head, he said, lowha was lame, and there- fore could not stir; but that he and Otoo would soon converse in private. This was probably true; for those we I'eft with ()t<,o came to us in a little time, and about (en minutes after, Otoo himself arrived, wUtn we all went to sleep in his canoe. The next morning the ava was in great plenty. One man drank to such excess that he lost Uh senses, and appeared to be convulsed. He was held by two men, who busied them- selves in plucking off his hair by the ro(»is, I left this spectacle to see a more affeding one; it was the meeting of Touha and liU >vife, with a young girl who was said lo l)t' his daughter. After the ceremony ot tuf- ting their heads, and discharging plenty of blood and tears, they washed, emlMaced the chief, and ofipeared perfectly unconcerned, IJut the young girl's suflerings were not yei coiieiiMJed, Terridiri (Ol-erea's son) arri\fvi; and .«;lie, with great cofn|)osure, repealed those reienionies to hini, which she had just perforiiied on uteeting her father. I'ouliii hiiving brought in a war canoe from Kiineo, I inquired if he had killed the people be- longing toiler, and was informed, that there was not a single person in her when she whs captured. About ten o'clock we left Tcf- taha, and landed close to the Morai of At- tahooroo, early in the afternoon. Thife canoes lay hauled upon the beach, oppo.«iie the Morai, having tliree hogs in each. We expected the solemnity would have beeu performed the same afternoon, but nolhiiiK was done, as neither Towha uor Potatou bad i.C ANiJ HOimjO THE WORLD. 555 jniitptl us. A chief cdirie from Eimeb wiib a small pi|r. and a plantain tree, Which he pI'.K.'^d at Otoo's feet They conversed some titue toire^her, and the Eimeo chief often fe- priUing: the words warry, warry, "false," ()lnnf\vas ]lrob:ibly relating to him what he had heard, and the other contradicted it. The next day, Towha and Potatou, with jteven or eigiit larg^e canoes, arrived and land- ed near the Morai. Several plantain trees were l»ron«}ht toOloo, on behalf of different chiefs. T(»\vha remained in his canoe. The ceremony commenced, by the principal priest lirinu'in? out the maro, wrapped np, and a btjiulle of a conic shape. These were placed nt the head of what I supposed to be a grave. Tlien ihree priests sat down at the other end nt'the grave, having with them a plantain tree, a branch of some other kind of tree, and the sheath of the flower of the cocoa-nut. Tlie priests separately repeated sentences ; Rnd at inttTvals, two, sometimes three, chanted a melancholy lay, very little attend- ed to by the natives. This kind of recitative continued near an hour. Then, after a short prayer, the chief priest uncovered the maro, and Otoo rose up, wrapping it about him, andholdingin his hand a bonnet, composed of the red feathers of the tropic bird, mixed with other blackish feathers. He stood op- posite the three priests, who continued their prayers for about ten minutes ; when a man rising suddenly from the crowd, said some- thing ending with heiva, and the people echoed back to him three times earee! The company then repaired to the opposite side ofa large pile of stones, where is the king's Morai, which is not much unlike a large grave. Here the same ceremony was again performed, and ended with three cheers. The maro was now wrapped up, and orna- mented by the addition ofa small piece of red feathers. The people proceedetl to a large hut near the Morai, where they seated themselves in solemn order. An oration was made by a man of Tiaraboo, which end- ed in about ten minutes. He was followed by another of Attahooroo : Potatou spoke next, and with much more jfluency and yracfe than any of them. Tooteo, Otoo's irator exhibited after him, an4 *,U«»n a man 3 from Eimeo. Some other speeches were made, but not attended to. Omiah said thin the substance of their speeches recomnend- ed friendship, and not nghtingf: but as many of the spfiikers ex|M'essed themselves with great warmth, there were, perhaps, some re- criminations and protestations oMheir future good intentions. In the midst of their ha- rangues, a nmn of Attahooroo rose up, having a sting fastened to his wuist, and a large stone upon !iis shoulder. After parading for about fifteen minutes in the open space, and chanting a few short sentences, he threw the stone down. This stone, together with a plantain tree that lay at Otoo's feet, were at the conclusion of the speeches, carried t« the Morai, one of the priests, and Otoo with him, saying something on the occasion. Returning to Oparree, the sea breeze having set in, we were obliged to land, and had a pleasant walk from Teltaha to O^tauree. A tree, with two large bundles ot dried leaves suspended upon it, pointed out the boundary of the two districts. We were ac- companied by the man who had pertormed the ceremony of the stone and sling. With him Otoo's iather held a long conversation^ and appeared extremely angry. He wan enraged, as I understood, at the part which Touha ha(t taken in the Eimeo business." From what can be judged of this solem- nity, as related from 3Ir. King, it had been only a thanksgiving, as Omiah told us, but rather a connrmation of thf treaty. The grave, mentioned by Mr. King, appear to be the very spot where the celebration of the rites began.when the human sacrifice was of- fered, at which Captain Cook was present, and before which the victim was laid. It ia here also that they first invest their kings with the maro. Omiah, who had seen the ceremony when Otoo was made king, describ- ed the whole solemnity when we uere here; which is nearly the same as that now relat- ed by Mr. King, though perhaps upon a very diflTerent occasion. The plantain-tree is always the first thing introduced iti all their religious ceremonies^ as well as in all their public and private debuies, and probably on manv other occasions. While Towha was,, at Eimeo, he sent one or more messengers to m % m tm "■'1. !ii '.C It. J m 558 VOYAGE T0WAllt)8 T«E NORTH POLE. Otoo every day. Kvery meMenfi^er, at n\\ fimes, carried a vnung plantain-tree in his band, which he fuid at the feet of OtOo be- fqre he mentioned his errand, nOer which he seated hitnseN'before him and related pnrticn- lavs. When ttvo men are in such high dis- pnte that blows are expected to eosue, if one should lay a plantain tree before the other, they both become cool, and proceed in the argument without farther animosity, tt is indeed the olive branch of these people upon all occasions. On Friday, the 20tli, all the women were ordered to be put on shore ; a task not easily effected, most of them beinar very unwilling to deimrt : nor was it of much consequence, as they found means to follow ns afterwards to Huaheine, Ulietea, and the other Society Isles ; nor did they leave us till our tinal departure to our northern discoveries, never more to return. Our friends knowing, by this, we were upon the point of sailing, they all paid us a visit, and brought more hogs than we wanted ; for we had sufficient for our present u^e, and had no salt left to pre- serve any. On the27tli, Capt. Cook accom- panied Otoo to Oparree ; and before he left it, took a survjy of the cattle and i)oultry which he had consigned to his frientl's care. Every thing was in a promising way, and properly attended to. Two of the geese, and two of the ducks were sitting ; but the pea-hen ami turkey-hen had neither of them began to lay. lie took four goats from Otoo, two of which he intended to leave at Ulietea^ and to reserve two for the use of any other Islands he might toiw^h at in his pas- sage to the north. On the 28th, Otoo came on board, and informed Capt. Cook that he had a canoe, which he desjred lie would take with him as a j)resent from the Earee of Otaheiteto the Eareerahie no Pretanne. The Captain was highly pleased with Otoo for tiiis mark of his gratitude. At first, the Captain Rnp|K)sed it to have been a model of one of their vessels of war, but it proved to be a snuiU ivahali, about 10 feet lonir- It was double, and |)robably hatl been built for the purposf, and was decorated with carved work, like their canoes in general. It b<;ing too large to take on board, the Cap- taio eonid only thank him for his good in, tehtion, but 'Jie king would have been nmrh better fileased if his present could have been accepted. The following circumstance, cnu. cernmg Otoo. will shew that the people of this Island are capable of mitc-h address and art to accomplish their purposes. Amonr other things which the Captain had at (iit> ferent times given to this chief, was u spying. glass: having been two or three davs po!*. sessed of it, he |)erhaps yrew tirecf of his glass, or discovered that it could not he of any use to him ; he therefore carried it pri- vately to Capt. Clerke, telling him, that lie had got a present for him, in return for his friendship, which he supposed would be agreeable ; " but (says Otoo) Toote must not be informed of this, becau.se he wantod it, and I refused to let him have it." Ac- cordmgly, he put the glass into Captain Clerke's hands, assuring him, at the suine time, that he came honestly by it. Captain Clerke, at first, wished to be excused from accepting it ; but Otoo in.sisted that he should, and left it with him. A few days after, he reminded Captain Clerke of the ^lass ; who, though he did not wish to have it, was yet desirous of obliging Otoo ; and thinking a few axes would he most accep- table, produced four, and ofJered them iu exchange. Otoo' immediately exclaimed •• Tooto offered me five for it." Well, says Captain Clerke, if that be the case, yoa shall not be a loser by your friendship lui me: there are six axes for you. He readily accepted them, but again desired that Capt. Cook might not be made acquainted with the transaction. By calms, and gentle breezes from the west, we were detained here some time lon- ger than we exr>ected, during which the ships were crowded with our friends, and surrounded with canoes, for none of thera would quit the place till we departed. At length, on Monday the 29th, at three o'clock P. M. the wiiifl cjvmeat east, and we weigh- ed anchor. When the Resohition and Dis- covery were under sail, to oblige Otoo, ;>nd to gratify the curiosity of his people, we fired several guns ; after which all our friends, except Ids majesty, and two or three 'L^' AND ftOI^ND T0£ WimhV 657 jioi^, took )«tvtt of IIS tiitb such lively Ufiai'koi ot* sorrow and afteetion, a:* sufficiently testified tiow much th«y re^retteil our depar- ture. Otoo lieincr desirous of seeiuM' the Resolution sail, she made a stretch out to MSI, and then in again iinniediiitely, when the king' took his last farewell, and went ashore in his canoe. It was strictly enjoin- ed ti> the Captain by Otoo, to request, in liin name the Kareerahie no Pretanne, to send him hy the neNt ship some red fea- thers, and the birds which produce them, also axes, half a do/en muskets, powder and shot, and by no means to forget horses. When these people nmke us a present, it is customary for them to let us know what they e\|>ect in return ; and we find it convenient to gratify them, by which means our pre- sents come dearer to us than what we obtain by barter. But being sometimes pressed by occasional scarcity, we could have recourse to our friends fur a supply, as a present, when we could not get it liy any other me- thod. Upon the whole, therefore, this way of trafiic was full as advnntat^eous to us as to the natives. In general, we paid for each lot or separate article as we received them, except in our intercourse with Otoo. His presents were so numerous, that no account was kept between him and the Captain. Whatever the chief desired, if it could be spared, was never denied him, and the Cap- tain always found him moderate in his de^ mands. If the Captain could have prevailed on Oaiiah to Mx Lis residence at Otaheite, we •hoidd not have (piitted this Island so snon as we did : for there was not even a prol>abi- lity uf our being better supplied with provi- sions elsewhere, than we continued to be here, even at the time of our leaving it. Besides, such a friendshin and confidence subsisted between us and the inhabitants, as could hardly be expected at any other place ; and it was rather extraordinary, had never once been interrupted or suspended by any a(N!ident or misunderstanding, nor had there been a theft committed worthy of notice. It is piobable, however, that tiieir regularity of conduct resulted fVom their fear ol i|^ercu|>tiQf: a tra^c which might procure them a gretiter share o| our commodities than they could obtain by plihi- der or pilfering. This pfunt, indeed, wai settled, in some degree, at the first intenrifiv with their chiefs, after our al*rival : for th« C'ommodore declared then to the natives, in the niost decisive terms, that he would not suffer them to rob us, as they had formerly done. Oniiah was singularly useful iti tb(s business, being instructed by the Captain to point out to them the happy consequences of their honest cmiduct, and the fatal mischiefs that must attend a deviation from it. But the chiefs have it not always in their pc^er to prevent thefts; they are often robbed themselves, and complam of it as the worst of evils. The most valuable things that Otoo received from us, were left in the Captain's possession till the day before we sailed, the king declaring that they could be no where so safe. From the acquisition of new riches, the inducements to pilfering must certainty have increased, and the chiefs are sensible of this, from their being so extremely desirous of having chests. The few that the Spani- ards left among them are highly prized, and they are continually asking us for some. We have already mentioned one having been made for Otoo, at his request, the dimensions of which were eight feet in length, five in breadth, and about three in depth. Locks and bolts are not considered as a sufficient .security, but it must be targe enough for two people to steep upon, and consequently guard it in the night. It may ap|)ear extraordinary, that we contd not get any distinct account of the time wlien the Spaniards arrived, the time they staid, and wlien they departed. The more we made enquiry into this matter, the more we were convinced of tlie incapability of most of these peeple to remember, calculate, or note the time, when past erents happenecU espe* cialty, if for a longer period than eighteen or twenty months. It however appeared, from the inscriptiqn upon the cross, and l)y the information o^ the natives, that two ships came to Oheiteiieha Bay, in 1774, not long after Capt. Cook left Matavai, which was in May the siame year. The live stock they left here» consiBted of one bull, some goahii Pf .1. i 1 I '-.m i^M it n- ?} hi ■>■'■■ 6^ VOYACJP XOW^RPS atriV NORTH POLE, hosfs, amJ dogs, ano tbe male qf anfttlifir ^i;- ipal^ \vliicli we vveiearterwsirds informibi wgs a nVin, at, tliifl tinie at ^o|r»bx)la. The hqgs, IwiuW \atge, have aij-J^^atfy much improved the breed originally found by us upon the Island ; and on onr arrival, were very nuihe- nms. Goats are also in plenty, there being jiard ly a chief without them. The dogs that the S}>aniards put ashore are of two or three sorts; had tbey all been hanged, instead of being- left upon the Island, it would have been better for the natives. A youngp ram we had Ml a victim to one of these animals. Four Spaniards remained on shore when their ships left the Island, two of whom were priests, one a servant, and the other was nnicli caressed among the natives, who dis- tinguish liim by the name of Mateema. He seems to have so tar studied their language, as to have been able to speak it; and to have been indefatigable in impressing in the minds of tlie Ofaheileans exalted ideas of the great- ness of the Spanish nation, and inducing them to ihink meanly of that of the English. He even assured them, that we no longer existed as an independent nation ; that Pre- tanne was but a small Island, which they had entirely destroyed : and as to Captain Cook, they had met with him at sea, and with a few shot had sent his ship, and every soul in her to the bottom, so that his visiting OtAheite was, of course, at this time, very unexpected. Many other improbabilities were propagated by this Spaniard, and be- lieved by the inhabitants ; but Capt. Cook's returning to Otaheite was considered as a complete refutation of all that Mateema had advanced. With what views the priests re- mained, cannot easily be conceived. If it was their intention to convert the natives to (he Catholic faith, they certainly have not succeeded in a single instance. It does not appear, indeed, that they ever attempted it ; for the natives say, they never conversed with them, either on this, or any other su^ect. The priests resided the whole time at Ohei- tei>eha ; but Mateema roved about continu- ally, visiting many parts of the Island. After h» t:id his companions had staid ten .nonths, two ships arriving at Otaheite, took them aboard, and sailed in five days. Whatever design the Spaniards mighthftv^ hatJ-it^h^n this jL^iaiKJL tfieir hasty departure shewii'tliey have now laid it aiside. They end eavniu^ to make the natives believe.-that they intend- ed to return, and would brilig \vith thern houses,, all kinds of animals; and> ihien auij women who were to settle on the Ishuwi. Otoo, when he mentioned this to CaptlCouk. added, that if the Spaniards ahould>retnrn, he would not permit them to enter Mataval fort, vfhicli, he said, was ours*. The idea pleased him ; but he did not consider that an attempt to complete it v.'C'j'.d deprive hiih of his kingdom, and his peopie ot' their ji. berty. Though this shews how easily a settlement might be effected at Otaheite, it is hoped, that such an event might never take place. Our occasional visits may have been of service to its inhabitants, but (con- sidering how most European establishments among Indian nations are conducted) a per- manent settlement at this Island would, probably, give them just cause to lament that our ships had ever discovered it. Indeed, a :neasure of this kind ran hardly ever be se- riously thought of, as it can neither answer the purposes of public ambition, nor of pri- vate avarice. We have already observed, that Captain Cook received a visit from one of the two natives of this Island who had been taken to Lima by the Spaniards. It is vsomewhat re- markable that we never saw him afterwords, especially as the Captain received him uif.fi uncommon civility. It was supposed that Omiah, from motives of jealousy, ha ROUND TtiE VtORUh. 7n 650 KiigUnd, that if he Ahuuid sink into bi» ol^ grjual state of indolence, Ke has only himsdf to blame tor it ; and we are inclined to think this will be the consequence of bis indiscreet behaviour. Honie time before, the Captain, hii unchangeable friend and patroQ, had made tip a suit of colours for him, but he con- sidered them too valuable to be used at this tiiiie, auil tlierefore patched up a parcel of ila<;s and pendants, to the number of ten or a do/en, wliii'li he spread on dilferent parts of" his canoe. This, as might be expected, tlievv u Hfreat number of people to look at her. lie had completely stocked himself with clolli av'i coc(»a-niit oil, which are better and niDK:' plentiful at Otahcite than at any of the Siriet.v Isles, insomuch, that they are con- siiUred as articles of trade. Omiah would nut have behaved so inconsistently, as he did in iiiuiiy instances, had it not been for his sister and brother-in-law, who together with a few select companions, engrossed him to themselves, in order to strip him of every ar- ticle lie possessed : and they would certainly have succeeded, if Cap:ain Cook had not taken the most useful articles of his property into his possession. However, Otniah wouM not have been saved from rnin, if tlieCaptau) had permitted these relations and friends of his to have accompanied him to bis intend- ed place of settlement at Uuiihf ..je. This, intlfed, was their iiiteution, but onr Com- iiiotioie disappointed their farther views of iiluniier. by Ibrbidding them to a|)pear at Hiiaheine, while he continued at the Society Islands, and they^knew him well enough not to comply. On Tuesday, thCf'iOth, having sailed from Otaheite, we continued our course uniler doubled reefed topsails, and stood for the north end of the island of Eimeo. Omiah, in his canoe, arrived there before us, and en- deavoured, by taking some necessary mea-, siires, to shew us the best anchoring place. We were not however, without pilots, hav- ing; several natives of Otaheite on board, and among them not a few women. Unwilling to relw wholly on these guides, two boats were sent to examine the harbour, when, observ- ing the si^rnal made for safe anchorage, we stood in with both the 9hii>s close up to the 7 head of the inlet, where we cast anchor in ten fethoois water, over a bottom of soft mnd, and moored with a hawser fast to the shore. The name of this harbour is Taloo. It is .situated on the north side of the island, and in the district of Oboonohoo,or Poonohoo, apd runs above two miles between the hills, S. or 8. by £. It is not inferior to any harbour that we have met with in this ocean, both for security and goodness of bottom. It has also this singular advantage, that a ship can ail in and out with the reigning trading wind. Several rivers fall into it, one of which is so considerable, as to admit boats a quarter of & mile up, where the water is perfectly fresh. The banks, on the sides of this stream, are covered with what the natives call the Poo- roo-tree, on which they set no value, as it serves only for firing: so that wood and water may be procured nere with great facility. The harbour of Parowroah, on the same side of the Island, is about two miles to the east* ward, and is much larger within than that of Taloo ; but the opening in the reef lies to lee- ward of the harbour, and is considerably nar- rower. There are two or three more har- bours on the south side of the Island, but they are not so considerable as those we have already menti4>ned. We were received by the natives of Eimeo with every mark of hos- j}itality, great numbers of whom came aboard llie ships, bnt from mere motives cf curiosity for they brought nothing with them for tlie purposes of barter. On Wednesday the 1st of October, our live stock was landed, onr carpenters sent out to rut wood, and our purveyors to r.^lect hogs. Here we fomul Oiniah, who, on his arrival, had been diverting himself and the natives with his feats of arms and had raised their curiosity to a very high degree, bjf acquaint- ing tl^iem V ith our intention of paying tnern a visit, as no European ship had ever '>nchored at their Island before. The next day, being the 2nd, several canoes arrived, from distant parts, bringing with them a copious supply of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a few hogs, which were exchanged for beads, nails and hatchets: red feathers being not so much de- niicmded here as at Otaheite. This day, in the morningj Captain Cook received a \hit I- ff'fi '; &l:l: ^-.'wm 560 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, from Mahefne, (he chief of the Island. He approached the xhip with as great caution and deliberation, as if he apprehended mis- chief from us, knowing ns to be friendi; of the Otadieiteans ; for^ these people have no idea that we can be in friendship with any one without adoptinpT his cnuse against his ene- mies. This ciiief was accompanied by his wife, wlio, we are told, is sister to Oamo, of Otaheite. whose death we heard of while we remained at this Island. Captain Cook made them presents of such articles as seem- ed most to strike their fancy ; nnd after stay- ing about half an hour, theyvvent on shore ; soon after they returne ■'.'.' • A| TUB \rORLi> 9or after, it, (U»Te^«5H^ way?; /or tji^y ail ©«- lass search, and return ta.Uis* boat. Capt. deavonred to persuade us, tiiat it must Uave Cook now laiuentcti that iie Wad proceeded strayed injto the woods.; not ptif^ of them sq far in the busiiiuss, 8eeii)s? he could not iVdiniUins that it was stolen, ,We. were, letreat with credit, nor witlmut j?ivin«jrl esi- however, cpnvincecf of the Contrary, when conra^ement to other Isiamiers t<»; r«h us we found, not (j^ne of the pufsuers returned : with impunity. Upon CMHsultin^, vrMlW tlieir iiiteiUiotl being only to amnse us, till Omiah, and the two old men, th«y advised ilieir priz^ was safely deposited; and night us, without hesitation, to advance up the coiniuR; on prev^nteq all farther searcw. At country with a party of men, and shoot every (his instant, the boat returned with itie other person they should meet with. The Captain £foat, and one of the persons who had pur- did not approve of the bloody part of tiiis joined it. The next morning, being Wed- counsel ; nevertheless, early the next inom^ Mesday the 8th, most of the natives were ing, being the 0th, he set out with thirty^ moved off. They had carried with tliem a five of our people, accompanied by OnTiah, corpse that lay on a toopapoo, opposite the one of the old men, and thiee attendants, sliip; and Maheine, we were informed, had Lieutenant Williamson was also ordered retired, to the remotest part of the Island, round the western part of the Island, with It now plainly appeared, that a regular plan three armed boats, to meet us. We had no had been pr«*jectea to steal what the Com- sooner landed, than the few remaininur na- modore had refused to give ; and that, hav- tives fled before us. The first person we met ing restored one, they were determined not with on our march, was in a kind of periUnis to part with the other, which was a female, situation ; for Omiah, the instant he beheld and with kid; and the Commodore was him, asked Capt. Cook if he should shout equally resolved to have it back again : he him ; so fully was he persuaded, that tlie ad- therefore applied to the two elderly men, vice given us was immediately to be rarried wlio had been instrumental in recovering into execution ; but the Captain gave orders thetirst, who informed him that this had both to him and our guide, to let it be n>a(!e been taken to a place on the south side of known, thatitwas not our intention todestroy the Island, called Watea, by Hamoa, who a single native. These joyful tidings soon was the chief of that district ; but that it circulated, and prevented the flight of the would* be delivered up, if we sent and de- inhabitants. Ascending the ridge of hills, manded it. They shewed a willingness to on our road to Watea, we were informed conduct some of our people to the spot ; but that the goat had been carried the same finding that a boat might ^o and return in wav and could hardly have passed tlie ene day, one was immediately dispatched hilfs : we therefore marched up in great with two of our officers, Mr.Roberts, and Mr. silence, expecting to surprise the (jarty who Shnttleworth ; one to remain with the boat, were bearing off the prise ; but, when we if she could not get to the place, while the arrived at the upnermost plantation, vvc other went with the guides, accompanied by were told, that the animal we were in- some of our people. The boat returned in search of, had, indeed, been kept there ihc tlie evening, when we were informed by the first night, but, the next morning, was con-' officers, that, after proceedinir ih the boat as veyed to Watea. We made no furCher feople there defiied that and that it would soon be produced. But a« they had ever seen it, or knew any thirtg it did not arrive, and nierht approaching. Mr. about it. Ilavnoa himself appeared, and Shuttleworth resolved to give over the fruits expKssed himself to the same effcr.t. On 4 C h.\ 'm» immi ■ l.-.S,f ! ' ' s'lp^ . f'i 062 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE -NORTH POLE, •nr ftr^t comirrg to Watea, several men were «een, running to and fro in the woodf), with fJubs and darts in their hands ; and Omiah who had ran towards them, was assaulted with stones: hence it appeared, that they intended to oppose any attempt that we might be induced to make ; but on seeing the strength of our party, had given up the design: we were confirmed in this opuiion, by observing, that all their houses were empty. After having collected a few of the natives together, Omiah was directed tn expostulate with them on the absurdity of their conduct, and to let them know, we Irad received sufficient information that the goat was in their possession ; and that, if it was not without delay delivered up, we should burn all their houses and canoes; yet not> wiXhstandingthisexpostulation, they persist- ed in their denial of having any knowledge of it: in consequence of which we set tire to eight of their houses, and thr^e war canoes, all which were presently consumed. We afterwards marched off to join the boats, at that time eight miles from us ; and, in our route, burnt six other war canoes, without any opposition ; on the contrary, many of the natives assisted us, perhaps, more from fear than any other motive. Omiah, who was at some distance before us, came back with information that a number of men were assembled to attack us. We prepared to re- ceive them ; but instead of enemies, they were petitioners, with plantain trees in their hands, v^ich they laia down before us, en- treating the Commodore to spare a canoe that lay upon the spot, which he readily complied with. About four o'clock, in the afternoon, we arrived at Wharrarade, where our boat^were waiting for us. This district belongs to Tiarataboonoue ; but this chief, together with the other principal people of the place, had fled to the hills ; though we made no attack on their property, ;the9r be- ing in amity with Otoo. Here we remained about an hour, in order to rest ourselves, and afterwards set out for the ships, where we arrived at eight o'clock in the evening ; but no tidings of the goat had, at that time, been received ; and, of course the operations iif the day had been ineffectual. ' On Friday the 10th, in the morning a messenger was sent off to Maheine, char|;ed with this peremptory resolution of the Cap. tain,' that if he persisted in his refusal tode* liver up the goat, a single canoe shonld not he left upon the Island : and tht^t" hostilitie?; should never cease, while the stolen animal remained in his possession. TImt the mes- senger might perceive the Captain was in earnest, he ordered the carpenter, in his pre- isenceto breakup three canoes that lay at the head of the harbour ; aind, by his order the planks were taken on board, to serve a^ materials to build a house for Omiah, a^ the place where he intended to fix his residence. From hence, our Commander, properly atten. ded, went to the next harbour, where* he de- stroyed eight more canoes, and returned on board about seven in the evening. On ]m arrival, he was informed, that the goat had been returned half an hour before ; and itap. fteared from gowl intelligence, that it came i*om the very place, where the inhabitants, tlie day before, declared they knew nothinij about it ; but, from the message delivered to the chief in the morning, he perceived, that the Captain was not to be trifled with. Thus ended this troublesome and unfortunate busi- ness, equally to be regretted by the natives, and by Capl. Cook . He was grieved to reflect, that, al^er refusing to assist his friends at Ota. heite, in the invasion of this Island, lie should so soon be obliged to engage in liostilj. ties against its inhabitants ; which, perha|i ROUND THE WORLD. jjce»e otf iJ^solatipp, that no inj ury ye received framtbc; piltVr^nif uispositiuii of the inlUabi- tautscnulaJi^Htiry-, The peo))t«|'liad brnu$i;ht us every tkioi? their TsiaiiU aKorded.and had leftitto the generosity of the purchasers to give, ill return, whatever tbey pleased : but unfortunaMy a ?oat from our live slock was missin;^. It ttad been secretly conveyed away in the night, from the pastures in which they were placed to feed, notwithstanding the viuilance of the guard appointed to look after tnem. With the loss of this animal, (no doubt a great prize to the thief^) the Eareti of the Island was made acquainted by Captain Couk, and a peremptory requisition made to have it restored, on pain of having his conn- try laid waste, his shipping destroyed, and himself personally punished tor the crime of his subject^. The king promised his assist- ance, and required time far enquiry ; but as soon as he was set at liberty, he absconded, and was no more seen. The goat being still ntissing, and no nit^ans used for recovering and restoring it, a party from both ships, \rith the marines in a body, were ordered imU to carry the threats of our Commander into execution For three days, successively, thev continued their devastations, burning and destroying two hundred of the best houses of the inhabitants, and as many of their large war canoes; at the s<»me time, catting down their fruit trees, and destroying their plantations. The natives who lived at a distance* hearing of the havoc that was made near the bay, tilled their canoes with stones and sunk them, with a view to their preservation; but that availed them nothing: for the Captain ordered boats to be manned and artned ; the canoes that were sunk to be weighed u p and destroyed ; in short, a general desolation to be carried through the whole Island, should the goat be still withheld. Add tothifs, tiiat two young natives of qua- Sty bein^ found on board our ship, were made prisoners, and told they were to be |)Ut to death, if the goat should not be re- utored within a certain time. The youths I'lotestt^d their own innocence, and disclaim- ed all l^aQw2«dg«: of the guilty persons ; not- wiihstaifding which, f very preparation was appare^ll^ wadft for puUang tnem both to death. Large copes were carried upon the rnain deck, and made fast fore and aft ; axes^ chains, &c. were placied u|A>n th« quarter deck, in sight of tlie young ra^iv whose ter- rors were increased by the iivforroation of Omiah, who gave them to understand that» by all these solemn preparations, their doom was tinally determined. Under these gloomv apprehensions, the poor youths remained till the 9tli, when, about three in the afternoon a body of between fifty and sixty natives were seen from the ship hastening to the harbour, who, when they came iK^ar, held up the goat in their arms, in raptures thut tliey had found it, and that it was still alive. The joy of the imprisoned yoimg men is not to be expressed ; and when they were released, instead of shewing any signs (U resentment, they were ready to fall down and worship their deliverers. It can scarce be credited, when the devastation ceased, how soon the ii\jury they had sutFeted was forgotten, and provisions again brought to market, as if no violence had ever been com- mitted by us ; only the Earee of the Isbnd never made his appearance. All this while numbers of tl»e inhabitants of Otaheite, were witnesses of the severity with which this theft was punished ;. but it seetned to make no untavourahl« im(>ression upon them ; for they continued their good oflicea as long as we remained in the Society Isles/* On Saturday the 1 1 th, our intercourse with the natives was renewed ; several canoe» bringing bread frnit and cocoa-nuts to the ships; whence qnr Commander concluded, they were conscious of having merited the treatment they had received ; and that the cause of his displeasure being now removed, they apprehended no further mischief. Be- ing now about to take our departure fronv Bimeo, we shall first just remark, that there is very little difiference between the produce of this island, and that of Qtaheite ; but the difference in their women is reinarkabh^. Those of Eimeo have a dark hue, are loiir in stature, and have forbidding features. We woid'4 observe farther, the appearance of Eimeo hears not the least resemblance to Ibat of Otaheite. The latter being a hilly country, has little low land, exctpt some tr iUB ii m Vr. M4 VOYAGE T&WAnm THE !fOR*PH POLE deep vnlley;;, nnd a flat border that almost sfirrouncis it near the sea. Eimeo has steep |!Hfi;«:e(i hills, runninff in different directions, leavin*? large valleys and gently rising gromiiis about their sides. The hills, though rocky, are generally covered with trees al- most to the tops. At the bottom of the har- bour of Taloo, the ground generally rises to the foot of the hills : but the tiat border on the sides, becomes quite steep at a small dis^ tance from the sea. This produces a pros- pect superior to any thing we sa\v at Ota- leite. In the low grounds, the soil is a yel- owish stiflT mould ; on the lower hills it is >lacker, and more loose ; and the stone which composes the hills, is of a bluish co- lotir, interspersed with some particles of glimmer. Near the place where our ships were stationed, are two large stones, con- cerning which some superstitious notions are entertained by the natives. They consider I hem as brother and sister; that they are Eatooas, or divinities ; and that they came from Ulietea, by some supernatural means. Having procured, at this Island, a large quantity of fire-wood, an article we could not supply ourselves with at Matavai, there being not a tree but what is useful to the in- habitants, and likewise a number of hogs^ bread-fruit, and cocoa-nwts, at nine o'clock A. M. we weighed, having a fine breeze down the harbour ; but it was so faint and variable, that we were not out at sea before noon, at which time we directed our course to Huaheine, Omiah having previously set sail before us. In the night, the weather being hazy, he lost sight of the ships and fired his gun, which was answered by th« Resolution. On Sunday ilie 12th, we came in sight of Huaheine, and at noon, anchored at the northern entrance of Owharre Har- bour, situated on the west side of the Island. Omiah, in his eanoe, entered the harbour ju^t before us, but did not land ; and though 0):' y of his countrymen crowded to see him, h vd not take p^-'^h notice of them. Great nuri ers also cbuie off to the ships, inso- much that we were greatly incommoded by them. Our passentrers immediately inform- ed them of our transactions at Eim«o, [ra»l- tipJyingt. by. tei9 times at least, the numbeF of 4 canoes and houses that we h^d destroyed. Capt. Cook was not much displeased at their giving: this exaggerated account as he found that it made a considerable impression upon all who heard it ; so that he had hopes it would induce the natives of this Island fo treat him in a better manner than they liad done in his former visit. The next morning', which was the 13th, all the principal peoj/fe of the Island came to our ships. This was just what our Commodore wished, as it was now high time to settle Omiah, and he sup- posed that the presence of these chiefs would enable him to effect it in a satisfactory man- ner. But Omiah now seemed inclined to establish himself at Ulietea; and if he and Capt. Cook could have agreed with respect to the mode of accomplishing that desiijn, the latter would have consented to adopt it. His father- had been deprived by the inha- bitants of Bolabola, when they subdued Ulietea, of some land in that Island ; and the Captain hoped he should be able to pet it restored to the son without diificulty. For this purpose, it was necessary that Omiah should be upon friendly terms with those who had become masters of the Island ; but he, would not listen to any such proposal, and was vain enough to imagine that the Captain would make use of force to reinstate him in his forfeited lands. This prepossession preventing his being fixed at Ulietea, the Captain began to consider Huaheine as the more proper place, and therefore determined to avail himself of the presence of the rhief men of that Island, and propose the affair to them. The ships were no less crowded with hogs, than with chiefs, the former being poured in npon us faster than the butchers and salters could dispatch them. Indeed, for several days after our arrival, some hundreds, great and small, were brought on board ; and, if any were refused, they were thrown into the boats, and left behind. Bread-fruit, bana- nas, plantains, eocoa-nuts, and yam«, were brought in the samn plentiful proportions, and nnrchosed for trifles. At Otaheite we ha4 heard, that our old friend Oree was n* longer the chief of Hnaheine, and that at thi» time be reiided at ¥lietea. Indeed h<^ •^kcM AND ROUND THE WORLD 666 leMroyed. leased at int as he inpression \\i\(\ hopes Island to they had t mornin«f, pal peojjle This was , as it was [id he sup- iiiefs would ctory man- inclined to if he and v\t\\ respect hat desi!,];n, to adopt it. y the inha- ;y subdned [sland ; and > able to set ficulty. For that Omiah , with those [sland ; but ih ])roposal, ne that the * to reinstate (repossession Ulietea, the eine as the deterrainfti of the ohief Ise the affair aever had teeen more than regent durins: (he and after that, several other tufts of red fca- minority of Taireetafeea, the present Enree thera were presented. The different articles rahie; but he died, Vaslied with vinegar, and smo.ked. While tlijs last 0|)eration was performing, the lower poil- holes were lell o|>en, for the rats to make their escape ; in short, a thorough revision was directed to be made of every thing on board, as well to cleanse the furniture from vermin, as to remove the danger of infection from putrid air, generated by a perpetual succession of multitudes of people, between decks* ever since our arrival at Otaheite. The sick were, at the same time, landed lor the benefit of the air, and every means used to recover, and to preserve them in health when recovered. Among thesicK uasCapt, Cook himself, for whose recovery the crews of both ships were under much concern, as the success of the vcyage was thought in a great measure to depend u|H)n his care and conduct, liy the doctor's advice, he was prevailed upon to sleep on shore ; wliere lie was assiduously attended, night and day, bj^ the surgeons of both ships, who watched with him alternately, till he was out of dan- ger. As soon as he was able, he rode out every day with Omiah on horseback, fcjlow- ed by the natives, who, attracted by the no- velty of the sight, flocked from the remotest parts of the Island to be sfiectators. We also during our stay in this harbour, carried the bread on shore to clear it of vermin. I'he number of cock-roaches that infested the ship at this time is almost incredible, IMie damage we sustained by them was very considerable ; and every attempt to destroy them proved fruitless. If any kind of food was exposed for a few minutes, it was covered with these noxious insects, who soon pierced it full of holes, so that it resembled a ho- neycomb. They proved particulaiiy destruc- tive to birds which ha THJ5 WORLD ^07. preserved books ft'OQi their ravages, waf the a very singular situation, Jhat of the pnF)r closeness of their binding, which prevented rich man in the kingdom and community ot these voracious destroyers from insinuating which he was to be a member ; and heinjj^ themselves between the leaves. According masterof an accumulated quantity of a spe-» to Mr. Andprson, they were of two sorts, tlie cies of treasure, which his countrymen could blatltt orienialif, and ffermaniea. The not create by dny art or industry of their own, former had been carried home in the lleso- it was natural, therefore, to imagine, that liition, in her last voyage, where they with- while all were desirous of sharing this envied stood the severity though she was in latter had only ma our leaving New Zealand ; but had increased advised him to distributesome of his mnve- sofast, that they now got even into our rig- ables among two or three of the principal ging ; so that when a sail was loosened thou- chiefs ; who on being thus gratitied, might bo sanus of them fell upon the decks. Though induced to favour him with their patronage, the orientalis were in infinite numbers, they and shield him from the injuries of others, seldom came out but in the night, when they Omiah promised to follow this advice, iuxi made a particular noise in crawling about : we heard before we sailed this prudent step and, besides their disagreeable appearance, had been taken. The €a|)tain however, not they did great mischief to our bread, which confiding wholly in the operations ofgrati- dainty feeders would have lU-relished, being tude, had recourse to the more forcit)le and so bespattered with their excrement. effectual motive of intimidation, taking every The (;ar|)enters and caulkers had no soon- opportunity of notifying to the iniiabitants, er completed tlieiir business an board, than that it was his intention to make another visit they were ordered on shore to erect a house to their Islard, after having been absent the for Omiah, wherein he might secure the vari- usual time ; and that if he did not find his ous European commodities that he had in his friend in the s&me state of security in which he >ossession : at the same time, others of our should leave him at present, all those who had )eople were employed in makiaig a garden been his enemies might expect to became the br (lis use, planting vines, ^hadclocks, mc- objects of his resentment. This menacing ons, pine-apples, and the setc's of various declaration will, probably, have some effect ; dnds of veg^abls ; all which were in flon- for our successive visits of lafe years have rishing state before our departure from the induced these Islanders to believe, that our Island. Ouliah began now to pay n serious ships are to return at certain periods; and attention it itisown affairs, and heartily re- while the> continue to entertain such a no- penled of his ill-judged prodig'aiity at Ota- tion, which the Captain thought a fair sXva^ heite. Here he found a brother, a sister, and tagem to confirm, Omiah has some prospect a brother-in-law, the sister having been of being suffered to thrive upon his new plaftr mairied : these did not plunder him, as his tation. ,. , , other relations had larely done ; it r.ppeared, Oii Wednesday, the 22nd, the intercoiirse however, that thougli they hfid toe much of trade and friendly offices, between us and honesty and good-nature to do him any injury the inhabitants of Iiuaheine, was internipt* yef, they were of too little consequence in the ed ; for, in the evening, one of t!:e latter Island, to do him any real services, having found means to get into Mr..jBayley's obser« neither authority nor influence to protect ^l^' valory, and carry ofi' a sextant, unobserved, property or his person. Thus circumstanced Capt. Cook was no sooner informed of tfiis he ran great risk of being stripped of every theft than he went ashore, and de-sir^ii Omiah rtiing he had received from his sj^enerous be- to apply to the chiefs, to procure re<^titntion« nefactors, as soon as he should cease to be He accordingly made application to them, witiiiu the reach of our powerful protection, but they took no steps towards recovering He was now oa the point of being placed in the instrauient, being more afteutive to a '•, !■ f r^k ^ ■ft'; tm VOYAGE fFaW^RPt IWWdiPWH POLE. ]mv9.» that w^5t)ieii,?xiab|tiag, till the Cap- tain Qt'^ei(f4 tbcipttrfprtners to desist. Being now, convinced lie was in earnest* they be- gan to make wiue enquiry af^r tlie aeiin- qpent, wbp was sitting in the midst of them, wiih such marks of unconcern, thpt the Captain was in great doubt of his being gMilty, particularly as he denied it. Omiah assuting bim this was the person, he was stent on b'o^rd the Resolution, and put in irons. This raised an universal ferment among the Islanders, and the whole body tied wilh precipitation. The prisoner being examined by Omiah, was with some difti- ciilty brought to confess where he had cori- cealed the sextant, and it was brought back unhurt the next morning. After this, the natives recovered from their consternation, and began to gather about us a^ usual. As the thief appeared to be a shameless villain, the Commodore punished him with greater severity than he had ever done any formei culprit ; for, besides having his head and beard shaved, he ordered both his ears to be cut oft; and his eye-brows to be flayed, than which no punishment could have sub- jected him to greater disgrace. In this bleeding condition he was sent on shore, and exposed as a spectacle to intimidate the people from meddling with what was not their own. The natives looked with horror lyipoii the man, and it was easy to perceive that this act gave them general disgust: even Omiah was affected, though he endea- voured to justify it, by telling his friends, that if such a crime had been connnittedin the country where he had been, the thief would have been sentenced to lose his life. But, how well soever he raightcarry offthe matter, he dreaded the con»>equences to himself, which, in part, appeared in a few days, and were probably more severely felt by him, soon after we were gone. Saturday, the 25tb, a general alarm was spread, occasioned by a report,..tli^t onp of our goats had been stolen by ' tiie ^bove- luentioned thief; and thon(;h,.up,on. exami- nation, we found every thing; safe in that Quarter, yet it appeared, that he h^d destroy- ed and carried off ifrom Omii|^'s, grounds, Mverai vin'*^ and cabbage pl^^^-^^ ^^^ ^^ UM^ {P^et nm^tphwihpusp, 4^ spoa as ws sI^Qttldquit this placcj. TpRrev^'ntJiiRdoinir any further mischief, the Captain ordered him tol^e seized, and.contined again on board the ship,, with a yipwof carrying hiin ort'the Island; and this intention seemed, to give general satisfaction to all the ichieifs. iJe was a native of Bolabola ; but there were too many of the people here , ready to ro- operate with him in all his, designs. \Vo have, indeed, always met with raore.trouMe., some people in Iluaheine, than in any other of the adjacent Islands ; and it was on!; from fear, and the want of proper opportr- nities, that induced them to behave better now. Anarchy and confusion tieemcd to prevail among them. Their £arf;e rahie, as we have already observed, was but a rhild • and we did not observe, that there was one individual, or any set of men, who held tl/a reins of government for him; so that whenever any misnnderstanding occurred between us we never knew, with sufficient precision, to whom it was necessary to apply, in order to effect an accommodation, or procure redress, On Thursday, the 30th, early in the inorninp, our prisoner, the Bolabola-man, faond means to escape from his confinement, out of the ship, carrying with him the shackle f)f the bilboo-bolt that had been put about liis leg, which was taken frr>ra him ^ soon a^ he arrived on shore, by one of the cinets, and given to Omiah, who quickly; came on board, to inform the Captain, that his mortal enemy was again let loose upon him. \Ve found, upon enquiry, that the sentry placed over the prisoner, and even the whole watcK in that part of the ship where he was con- fined, inaving fallen asleep, he seized the la- yoorable opportunity, took the key of tlje irons out of the drawer into which he liud seen it put, and set himself at liberty. This escape convinced the Commodore, that liis people had been very remiss in their night- duty ; which rendered it necessary to chas- tise those who were now in fault, and to, establish some new regulations that jiiii.ifht prevent similar neglj^^ence in ftiture! Wt were pleased at hearing, afterwards, that thi fellow who escaped, had gone pve^tiotJiicftt AND ROUND THE WORLD. but it was thought bv »ot»«, he only intend- ed to rooceal himself till our departure, when he would revenge the indignity we had treat- eA him with, by open or secret attacks upon Omiah. The house of this great man being now nearly finished, many of his moveables were carried ashore. Among other articles was a box of tovs, which greatly pleased the g-azinf^ multitnde; but as to his plates, dish- es, dnnking mngs, i^lnsses, and the whole train of househofd apparatus, scarce one of bis countrymen would even look at them. Omiah himself began to think, that they would be of no service to hiui ; that a baked hog; was more savoury than a boiled one ; that a plaintain leaf made as good a dish or plate as pewter ; and that a cocoa-nut shell was as convenient a goblet as one of our mujrs. He therefore disposed of most of these articles of English furniture among the crew of our ships ; and received from them, in return, hatchets, and other iron implements, which had a more intrinsic value in this part of the world. Among the ninnerous presents bestowed upon him in England, fireworks had not been omitted ; someof which were exhibited in the evening of the 28th, before a p^reat number of peoide, who beheld them with a mixture of plea- lure and fear. Those that remained were put in order, and left with Omiah, pursuant to their original destination. We now began to make preparations for our departure from Huaheine, and got every thing oflT from the shore this evening, ex- cept a goat big with kid, a horse and a mare, which were left in the possession of Omiah, who was now to be finally separated from us. We gave him also a boar, and two sows, of the English breed ; and he had !(ot two sows of his own. The horse had covered the mare during our continuance at Otaheite ; so that the introduction of a breed of horses into these Islands, has probably succeeded, by this valuable present. Witii refjard to Omiah's domestic establishment, ke had procured at Otaheite, four or five (outous or people of the lower class ; the two young New Zealanders remained with hiin ; and his brother, with some others, join- pel him : so that his family now consisted of 4D ten or eleven persons : if that can be justlj denominated a family, to which not one fe- male belonged. The house which our peo- ide erected fov him was twenty-four feet by eighteen, and ten ftet high : it was compos* edof boards, which were the spoils of our military operations at Kinieo, and in the construction of it, as few nails as possible were used, lest an inducement should arise, from a desire of iron, to ptdl it down. It was agreed upon, that, immediately after our depu/ture, he should erect a spacious house, after the fashion of his own country ; one end of which was to lie brought over that we had built, so as entirely to enclose it for greater security. In this work some of the chiefs of the Island promised to con- tribute their assistance ; and if the intended building should cover the ground which was marked out for it, few of the houses in Huaheine will exceed it in ni:»s?nitude. Omiah's European weapons consisted of a fowling piece, two pair of pistols, several swords, cutlasses, a musket, bavonet, and a cartnufh box. After he had got on shore whatever belonged to him, lie invited seve- ral times the two Captains, and most of the officers of both ships to dine with him ; on which occasions his table was plentifully spread v**ith the best provisions that the Is- land could afibrd. Omiah, thus powerfully supported, went through the fatigues of the day better than could have been expected from the despondency that appeared in his countenance, when first the company begaa to assemble. Perhaps his awkard situation, between half English and half Indian pre- parations, might contribute not a little to embarrass him ; for having never before made an entertainment himself, though he had been a partaker at many both in Eng- land and in these Islands, he was yet at a loss to conduct himself properly to so many guests, all of them superior to himself in Eoint of rank, thcutgh he might be said to e superior, in point of fortune, to most oif the chiefs present. Nothing however waf wanting to impress the inhabitants with an opinion of Omiah's consequence. The drums, trumpets, bag pjpes, baut-boys, fiuteib. violins, in short, the wkole band of ooasic r.\; '•. ''^^¥y i :'. ■ t «.', LI- ". '..ar'l ftTO VOYAGR TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, uttended, and fook it by (urns to,|>lav wIiIIq (Jiniier was gettiii;;' ready ; and when the company wtre seated, t!ie whuU; band join- ed in lull concert, (o the fldniiration ot' crowdc of the inhabitants, who were assem- bled ronnd the liouse on this oe(.'asion. The dinner consisted, as nsual, of the vaiious f product ions of the Island, barbicned hop;s^ owls dressed, some after the manner of the country, and others after the Enersfd, without the least disorder. Before we sei sail, the Commodore caused the fol- lowinir inscription to be cut in the front of Omiah's liouse. tn^eorgius iertius, Rex. 2 Novrmhrift. 1777. v«.,«. S liefiolntion, Jnc. (moIi, t*r. i\aies ^ Diacw^rif Car, Vlcrkt, Pr. November 2nd, on Stinday, at four o'clock P. M. we took the advanta^^e of an easterly breeze, and sailed out cf Owharre harbour. While here, we had procured more than four hundred hogs, n»ariy of them large. Though it had l)een in former voyages, that most of them which were carried to sea alive refused to eat, and consequently were soon killed, yet we resolved to make one experi- ment more; and by procuring large quanti- ties of yams, and other roots, on which I hey "Were accustomed to feed on shore, we ven- tured to take a few in each ship ; and for this purpose our carpenters had prepared styes for their reception in those parts where they might remain cool. Most of our friends, Datives of Hualieine, continued on board till our vessels were under sail ; when the Captain, to gratify their curiosity, ordered iive of the great guns to be fired. Then they all ]{'f^ '!s, except Omiah, who remained till we wt-re out at sea. We had come to sail by a hawser fastened to the shore, which in oasfing: the ship, parted, being- cnt by tli« rocks, and its outer ei>d was left behind ; I't therefore became necessary to dispatqh a txtat \o bring it on shore. Tnthis boat Omiah went ashore^ and took a very affectionate and final leave of the Captain, never to ^o* bim more. He had eodetroured to previiil on Capt, Cook to let him rettirn toEni^lanti^ which made bis parting with him and nur ofhcers the more affectin^r* If teais cmtld have prevailed on our Conimander to let iiim r«turn, Omiah's eyes were never dry ; niid jf the tenderest supplications of a dutiful Kon to an obdurate tuther could have made any impression, Omiah hung round his neck in all the seeming agony of a child tryinu' to melt the heart «f a reluctant parent. [Je twined his arms round him with the ardniir of inviolable friendship, till Capt. Cook, unable any lunger to contain himself, l)roke from him, and retired to his cabin, toi;,(lii|g(> that natural sympathy which he coulil nut resist, leavii:g Omiah to dry up his tears iiiid compose himself on the quarter deck. On his return, he reasoned with his friend, upon the impropriety of his request ; remiudintj- him of his anxieties while in England, lest he should never more have been permitted to return home ; and now that he had bpeo . restored to his friends and country, at a srfat expence to his royal master, it was childish to entertain a notion of being carried hack. Omiah renewed his tears and said, he liad indeed wished to see his country and friends; but having seen tliem he was contetited, and would never Inng for home agnin. Capt. Cook assured him of his best wishes, hnt kis instructions must be obeyed, which were to leave him with hisfri»:!,!s Such wastlie parting scene between Oiui.ih and his pa- tron ; nor were the two New Zealand hovs nii huve gone along wilh the .ships, ard cried bitterly when they under- stood they Were to be lefjr behind. Tiienro arosea new scene between O niah and his ser- vants, that, had not the officers on the (|iiar- ter deck interposed, might have ended m.^ fortunately for the former ; for they refiistf! to quit the ship, till they were compelifd hi doit by force, which would have been uorasy matter, the eldest, near sixteen, being of m athletic make ; and the youngest, about ele- ven, a giant of his f^'e« -,■ They were botii > Ail? AND ROUND THE WORLl> t^\ tractalle luul obliffiiir, till they found they wprf iu be Ifftut Huuheiiie, but knowing tins at rir d(fi>iirtiire from that place, they ^rew (K'sperate till Rubdued. They discovert d jlispositions the very reverse of the Islanders, Hnioni? whom th^y were destined to abide riiirin^' the rentuinder of their lives; aiid> instead of u mean, liiiiiil submission, they shewed a manly determined resolution not to he subdued, thoui?h overcome ; and ready, if there had been a possibilitv to succeed, to have made a second or even third attempt to liav*^ rp'^ained their liberty. We could never learn Oapt. Cook's reason, for refusing'to take on l><)urd some of those gallant youths from New Zealand, who, no doubt, would have n>aiJe useful hands in the hi^^b latitudes we were about to explore, and would besides liiive be«n Jiving^ exhibitions of a people, whose portraits have been imperfectly de- jiicted even by our best draughtsmen. There is a dauntless fierceness in the eyes and ciMinfenance of a New Zealand warrior, which the pencil of the most eminent artist 'iinnuf imitate ; and we lament the nonim^- ))f>rtation of a native from every climate, where nature had marked a visible distinc- tion in the characters of |)ersor« and mind. Having bid farewel to Omiab, lie was ac- comiMinied by Mr. King in the boat, who informed us, he had wept all the time he was going ashore. Though we had now, to our great sntisfac- tioQ, brought Omiah safe back to the very spot from whence he was taken, it is proba- ble we left him in a situation less desirable than that which he was in before his connec- tion with us: not that, having tasted the com- forts of civilized life, he mu*.';. become more wretched fro;n being obliged to relinquish all thoughts of Cf>ntinuing them, but merely be- oanse the advantages he received from us, have placed him in a more hazardous situa- tmn, with respefct to his personal safety. From being greatly caressed in England, he had lost sight of his primary condition, and did not consider in what manner his acquisi- tions, either of knowledge, or of wealth, would be estimated by his countrymen, at his return : which were tne only things whereby he could r(H?oniinend himself to them now. more than before, and on which he could lay the foundation either of his future gnui- ness or happiness, lie appeared to have, in some measure, forgotten their cusl'jnjsin this respect, and f vej) to have mistaken their ge- nius ; otherwise le must iiave been coiivir.c- edof the extreme dithrultv hi would li ml ia getting himself admiiud a.s a man of r.iiik, where there is scarcely a single instniice o*' a perdon's being raised from an i(if<>rior sta- tion even by the greatest merit. Rank seems to be the foundation ofall power and distinc- tion here,und is so pertinaciously adhered to, that, unless a person has rsome degree uf it, he will be contemned and huted, if he pretends to exercise any authority. This uusreallv the case, in some degree with Oniinh ; tliougn his countrymen were rather cautious in ex- pressing their sentiments while we continued among them. Nevertheless, had he made a f)roper use of the presents he brought with iim from Great Britain, this, with the know- ledge he had gained by travelling, might have enabled him to have formed the ntost advantageous connections : but he exhibited too many proofs of a weak inattention to this obvious means of promoting his interest. Ue had formed schemes of a higher nature, perhaps, with niore truth, it may be said, meaner ; for revenge, rather tha« a desire of greatness, appeared to influence him from the beginning. His father was certaiidy, a man of considerable property in IJIietea, when that Island was subdued by the inhabitants of Bolaboia, and with many others, fled for refuge to Huaheine, where he died, and left Omiah, with several other children, who thus became entirely dependent. In this situa- tion, Captain Furneanx took him up, and brought him to England. Whether he ex- pected, from the treatment he there met with, that any assistance would be afforded him against the enemies of his father and his country ; or whether he had the vanity to suppose, that his own superioritv of know- ledge, and personal courage, would be sufli- cient to dis{)ossess the conquerors, of Ulietea, is uncertain ; but, from the very commence- ment of the vovage, this was his constant topic. He would not pay any attention to our remokstrances on such an inronsideratf If ¥' H . ";5v.ii)«!M iS^ TOYAGB TOWARDS IMfliE NOBTH POLE, ll«terfnination» but wa» displeased, whenet ei^ more reasonable couaseh were proposed for his benelit. Nay, be was so ridiculously at- tnched to his favourite scheme, that he af- fected to believe the Bolabolans would cer- tainly quit the conquered Island, as soon as they should have intelligence of his arrival io Otaheite. As we proceeded, however, on our vayaye, he began to perceive his error; and, by the time of ourarrtval at the Friendly [>Ik) honoured him while in that kingdont, with their friendship and protection. Though he had a tolerable share of understamJiiig-, he shewed little application and perseverauve in exerting it, so that he had but a general and imperfect knowledge of things. H^ was not a man much nsed to observation ; otherwise, he might have c> lerview, njr havr they hitherto injitated us } Lti in very few respects. It must not, there- fore, be expected, that Omiah will be ahle to introduce among them many arts and customs, or much improve those ut which ?hey have been familiarized by long habit. We trust, however, that he will exert his endeavours to bring to perfection the various fruits and vegetables that were planted by us, which will be no small acquisition. But the principal advantage these I.sjeite, and the Society Isles, will equal any place in the knowii worldt :^ U>*;AND ROITFD THE WORLB^ ^ yo* &ttf tvith rft^p€ct to provisifms. Omiah's retiitn, and the substantia) proofs he had displayed of British liberality, encourai^ed many to offer themselines as volanteers to accompany ns to Pretanne ; but our Commodore took erery opportnnity of expressing tiis fixed determination to reject all applications of that kiiKl : and Omiah, who was ambitious of remaininf the only great traveller amon^ them, beings afraid the Commodore might be prevailed upon to place others in the same situation, as rivats, frequently reminded hini of the declaration of the Earl of Sand- fvich, that no others of his countrymen were to be carried to England. When the Cap- tain was abmit to bid farewcl to Omiah, he g;ave him his last lessons of instruction how to act; directing him at the same time to gend his boat over to Ulietea, his native Is- land, to let him know how the ciriefs behaved to liiin in the absence of the ships. If well, he was to send by the messenger three white beads : if they seized upon his stock, or brokeinupon his plantations, three red beads; orif things remained just as we left them, he was to send ihree spotted beads. As soon as the boat, in which Omiah was oonveyed ashore, had returned, with the re- mainder of the hawser, to the ship we hoist- ed lier in, and stood over for Ulietea without ieiay. The next morning, being the 3rd, we made sail round the southern end of that Islaad, for the harbour of Ohamaneno. We met with light airs and calms alternately, 80 that at twelve o'clock we were still at tliie distance of a league from the mouth of the harbour; and while we were thus detained, Oreo, the chief of the Island, with his son and son-in-law, came off t(» pay us a vi.-.it. All the Jjoats were now hoisted out, and sent a-head to tow, being assisted by a slight southerly breeze. This soon failing, and being sticceeded by on easterly one, which blew right out of the harbour, we were obliged to anchor at its entrance, about two •'clock P. M. and to warp in, which em- ploved ns till night. We were no sooner within the harbour, than our ships were surrounded with canoes, filled with the na- tives who brought asupply of fruit and hogs, which they exchanged tor our commodities. The followitig day, ttie Kcsoliitim irnn mooN ed close to the northern shore, at liie ^^la trance of the harbonr, «nd the J>rsoover]r along side the southern shore. Ii» the mean time, Capt. Cook returned Oreo's visit, and firesented that chief with a red feathered cap from Tongataboo, a shirt, a linen gown, and a few other thmgs of less value. Oreo, and some of his f.'iends, then accompanied him on board to dinner. On Thursday the 6th, we landed the re-> mainder of our live stock, set up the obser* vatories, and carried the necessary instru- ments on shore. The two 'ucceeding days, Capt. Cook, Mr. King, and Mr. Bayley, observed the sun's azimuths, both on shore and aboard, with all the compasse.^ in order to di&cover the variation. Nothing remark- able happened, till very early in the morn- ing of Thursday, the 13th, when a sentinel, at the observatory, named John Harrison, v4eserted, taking with him his musket and accoutrements. As soon as we had gained intelligence which way he was gone, a party was d«^taehed in search of him ; but they returned in the evening without success. Tlte next day the Captain applied to the chief concerning this affair, who promised to send a party of the Islanders after the fugitive, and gave us hopes that he should be brought back in the course of that day. This, however, did not happen ; and we I ad reason to imagine, thai the chief had taken no .steps to find him. At this time a con- siderable number of the natives were about the ships, and several thci'cs committed, the consequences of which being anprehtnded by them, very few came to visit us the next morning. Oreo himself caui^ht the alarm, and fled with his whole family . Capt. Cook considered this as a good opportanity to in- sist upon their delivering up the deserter; and having heard ho was at a place called Hamoa, situate on the other side of the Is'* land, he repaired thither with two armed boats, attended by a native. In our way, we met v/ith the cnief, who embarked with ns. The Cp4>triin, w th a few of his men, landing aboiit a mile aiSd a half from the spot* marched up to it with great expedition, let* the sight of the boali^^ should give the i 1 ' 1 ; u-v,; 674 '/* J'.if-v.;!? J^rj vol ACiiE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, ^r »Ianil,'»iid«Ho^ the offaKle* sufficient time J»Mtucl'nyns delivered bjf CaptaiH Jamet the lUotiiitHins. This precaii-^ Cook, to Captain Charles Cierke, Com-. mander of his Mqjeatu's ship, the Jljis, cover jf, Wednesday, i/ie 19th of Nooem- ^,1777. ,i;ii '<' ' ■>'(' rj J. •* WHEREAS ihe passage fr6m the S Ofh to escape to tfon proved unfi«ces««»ry; for the native* of ijiat part of the Island havini; obtained in- foi'ination of the Captain's approach, were prepared to deliver the deserter. He was found ivith his musket lyinjr before him, _ , seated between two women> who, the instant ety Islands, to the northern coast of America that the Captain entered the house, rose up is ofconsiderable length, both in distance and to t)lead in his vindication. As such pro- in time, and as a part of it must be performed oeedin;!:s deserved to be discouraged, the in the very depth of winter, when gales of Captain with astern look, bid tnem be windand bad weather must be expected, aad gone ; i;pon which they burst into tears, and may possibly occasion a separation, you are retired. Paha, the chief of that district, to take all possible care to prevent this, fiut n^^vv came with a sucking pig, and a plan- if notwithstanding all our care to keep com- tai J-tree, which he was on the point of pre- pany you should be separated from iq^ you seniing to Capt. Cook, as a peace-offbring, are nrst to look for me where you last saw roe. who rejectee? it; and having ordered the Not seeing me in five days, you are to proceed chief to quit his presence, embarked with (as directed by the instructions of thuir hx^U Harrison in one of the boats, and returned ships, a copy of which you hsve a?\vi«^, ,.. to the ships. After this, harmony was spec- ceived) for the coast of New Albion , nJi^d,*. dily restored. The delinquent made no ouring to fall in with it in the latitude ot 45 other excuse for his conduct, than that the deg. In which, and at a convenient distance nativei^ had enticed him away ; which per- from land, you are to cruize for me ten days, haps « as in r ^^reat measure true, as Paha, Not seeing me in that time, you are to put and the two women above-mentioned, had into the tirst convenient port, in, or to the been at the ship the day before his desertion, north of tbrl latitude, to recruit your wood As he had remained upon his post till with- and ,vater, and to procure refreshments, •in a few minutes of time in which he was to During your stay in port, vou are constantly have been relieved by another, the punish- to keep a good look-out ror me. It will be inent be received wasnot very severe. About necessary, therefore, to make choice of a sta- a fortnight after we had arrived at Ulietea, tion, situated as near the sea coast as possj- Omiah dispatched two of his people in a ca- ble, the better to enable you to see me, when Aoe, with intelligence, that he continued un- I may appear in the offing. Should I not disturbed by the inhabitants of Huaheine, join you before the 1st of next April, you are and i\y''* everyr thing succeeded with hi in, to put to sea, and to proceed northward to except ilisii his goat had died in kidding, the latitude of 56 deg. in which, and at aeon- This information was accompanied with a venient distance from the coast, never ex- request, that Capt. Cook would send him ceeding fifteen leagues, you are to cruize fur another goat, and also two axes. Pleased me till the 10th of May. Not seeing me at with this additional opprrtunity of serving that time, you are to proceed northward, and his friend, the Captain seut back the nies- endeavour to find a passage into the Atlantic ■enger to Huaheine, on the 18th, with the Ocean, through Hudson's or Baffin'is Bays, as axes, and a male and female kid. On Wed- directed by the above-mentioned instruc- nesdHv, the 19th, our Commander of ihis tions." Mi\jest'y's ship, the Resolution, delivered to '* But if you should fail in finding a pas. Captain Cierke his instructions bow to pro* sage through either of the said Bays, or b ceed in case of separation, after quitting any other way, as the season of the year mity these Isliiuds, of whieh the following it, we render it unsafe for you to remain in hiiiii (u bclievet, a true copy. t, :-, h.i -^ tni.. • tilude.f, you ara to repair to the harbour yl 9 r St. Pt order winfei canho at t\H where before an ace be del the sp to repi endejn May, ( ceive r as to ji sures t fore m( Cb'edin* are als< said in: nnd ar( in case otheiwi tion«i of are ro next ofl qnired i he can.' On ^ Mr.M- mate, t missing, with tw precedii »7)dof.t So'iety [p :i be { N..if )TJt tjvo arm fines, sei re!iiini''l Finn ill "I' -'(liHi egged he would not kill thenv. He pro- rines, set out in quest of the fugitives, Imt tested he would not, that the mouient tii» reiuine'l in the evening without success, people were brought hiwk, they should be Fifjn the behaviour of the Islanders, he was released. This however, did not remov* oi ijiinion, that they intended to conceal the their nneasy apprehensions, and they be^- (lesvriers; and, with this view had deceived wailed their expected fate in silent sorrow. him with false information, directing him to The chief being with (^apt. Cook whert be netk forthem where tliey could not be found, received inteIHgenoe of this afl^air, mention-^ He was not mistaken ; for, the next morn- edit immediately to him, imagining that iiir. intelligence was brought, that the two this step had been taken without his know- runaways were in the Isle of Otaha, with k ledge and Approbation. The Captain iti- vi«vrt6 co^ntinue their coarse to Otaheite, as stantly undeceived him; and tlieii he 'im m d70 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, began to entertain a fear with respect to his own fiersonal safety, and his countenance indicated the greatest |>ertiirbatien of mind ; but the Captain soon quieted his teai:8, by telling him, that he was at liberty to quit tlie ship whenever he chose, and to take such steps towards the recovery of our two men, as he should jadge best calculated fur that purpose ; and that if he should meet with success, his friends, on 'board the Discovery, should be released from their cunfiiienieitt : if not that they should be carried awuy with us. The Captain added, that'the chiefs conduct, as well as that of many of his countrymen, in not only assist- ing these two men in making their escape, but in endeavouring, at this very time, to prevail upon others to follow them > /'-'d jus- tify any measure that should servt. t a stop to such proceedings. All this wai^ . ne, as we have already hi;ited, to interest the people of the Island in the pursuit after the fugitives, and, to this end, the Captain pro- mised a reward of large axes, and other va- luable articles, to any of the natives who should be instrumental in apprehending and bringing them back. The confinement of part of the royal family might seem hard nsage, yet it had its etlect, and without this steady resolute proceeding, the deserters would never have been recovered. The boats of the Discovery went day after day to a 1 the adjoining Islands, without being able to learn the least trace of them ; and this they continued, till having searched every Island within th£ distance of two days sail, they were obliged to give over any farther searcli, as fruitless. The explanation of the motives upon which Capt. Cook acted, seeuied to remove, in a great degree, that general consternation into which Oi'eo, and his people present, were at first thrown. But, though relieved from ail apprehensions with regard to their own safety, they were still under the deepest concern for the pri- Buntrs in the Discovery. Numbers of them went under the stern of the ship, in canoes, end lamented their captivity with long and }ouii exclamations. The name of Poedooa ^which was that of Oreo's daughter) resound- ed from every quarter ; and tne women not only made amost dismal howling, but strtie^ thesv bosoms, and cut their heads with sharks teeth, which occasioned 'a considerable etfii.. sion of blood. The chief now dispatched a canoe to Bo- labola, with a message to Opoony, king of that Island, informing him of what hadhai). pened, and requesting him to seize the tw* deserters, and send them back. The mes- senger, who was the father of Oreo's son- in-law Pootoe, came to receive the Captain's commands before his departure; who strictly enjoined him not to return without the fu- gitives, and to tell Opoony, from him, thai, if they had left tire Isle of Bolabola, he must send canoes in pursuit of them. But the impatient natives, not thinking proper to trust to the return of our peojtle for the release of the prisoners,. were induced to me- ditate an attempt, which, if it had not been prevented, might have involved them in still greater distress. Between five and six o'clock, Capt. Cook, who was then on shore, abreast of the ship, observed all their canoes, in and about the harbour, began to move off. He enquired, in vain, for the cause «f this ; till some of our people, calling to us from the Discovery, ir.ibrmed us, that a body of the Islanders had seiieed Capt. Clerke atid Mr. Gore, as they were walking at a smsill distance from the ships. The Commodore, struck with the boldness of this scheme of retaliation, which seemed to counteract him in his ovvn way, instantly commanded his people to arm ; and, in a few minutes, a strong party, under the conduct of Mr. King:, were sent to the rescue of the two gentle- men. At the same time two armed boats, and a party, under Mr. Williamson, were dispatched, to intercept the flying canoes in their retreat to the shore. These de^ tachments had scarcely gone out of sight, when intelligence arrived, which convinced us that we bad been misinformed ; and they were immediately, in consequence of this, called in. However, it appeared from several corroborating particulars, that the nativsi had actually formed the design of seizing; Capt. Clerke ; and they even made no secret in speaking of it the following day. But the priocipal part of the plan af their oi)erati ivi , , AND ROUND \»'as lo l»nve secured the person of Onptain Codk. He wos accnstomed to bati^ every evening" in the fresh '.vaier ; on whioh occa- sioiif* l>«i frequently went alone, and was un- armed. Kxpectino: him to arc this eveninjr, as.nsi' '1, they had resolved upon seizing hiin, ."nd Capt. Cierke likewise, if he had accompanied him. lint our Commandei*, after confinini? the chief's family, had taken care to avoid putting himself in their power ; and had cautioned Capt. Cierke and the officers, not to go to any considerable dis- tance from the ships. Oreo, in the course of the afternoon, risked our Commodore, three or four times, if he would not go to the bathing place i. till at length finding that the Captain could not be prevailed upon, he retired, with his people, notwithstanding all our intrealies to the contrary. Having no suspicion, at this time, of their design, Capt. Cook imagined, that a sudden panic had seized them, which would be soon over. Being disappointed with respect to him, they fixed upon those whom they thought more in tiieir power. It was a fortunate circum- stance that they did not succeed in their de- sign, aisd that no mischief was done on the occasion: no muskets being fired, except two or three to stop the canoes ; to which firing, perhaps Capt. Cierke and Mr. Gore owed their safety; but Mr. King ascribes this to the Captain's walking with a pistol in liis hand, which, he says, he once fired ; at which time a party of the Fslatiders, arm- ed with clubs, were marching towards them, but olispersea on hearing the report of the muskets. This conspiracy wus first disco- vered by a girl, who had been brought from Huaheine by one of our officers. Happen- ing to overhear some of the IJIietcans say, that they would seize Capt. Cierke and \Jr. Gore, she immediately ran to acquaint the first of our i>eople that she met with the de- 5ia:n. Those who had been intrusted with the execution of the plan, threatened to put her to deatkJ, as soon as we should quit Uli- f'ten, for disappointing them. Being aware of this, we contrived that the girl's friends shonid come a day or two afterwards, and take her out of the ship, to convey her to a ulace where she might remain concealedK 4 E THE WORLD. - « 577 till an opportunity should ofTer for her es-^ caping to Huaheine. On 'Jimrsday the 27th, the tents were struck, the observatories took down, which* with the live stock, were brought on board the ships. We then unmoored, and moved a little way down the harbour, where we an- chored again. In ihr oSnrnoon, the natives gathered round, and came on board our shijjs, as usual. One parvy acquainted Capt. Cook, that the fugitives were ionnd, and that in a few days they would be broug-ht back, requesting at the same time the re- lease of the prisoners. But the Captnin paid no regard to either their information or pe- tition ; on the coiiUary, he renewed his threatenings, which he declared he would put in execution, if the men were not deli- vered up. In the sucree^ o'clock A. M. we weighed and made .sail with a light breeze at the north-east point. During the preceding week, we had nc^M visited by persons from all quarfers of tlu- Isl iiid, who afibrded us a plentiful sud- ]}ly <>r hogs and green plantains, so that t(ie time we remained wind-bound in the har- bour was not totally lost ; for green ()lan- tains are an excellen! succedaneuin for bread, anti will keep good for two or three weeks. Besides being Awnished with these p«ovi- siuiis, we also took in plenty of wood and water. The Ulieteans appeared to be in tre- nend smaller, and bh;! ker than the natives of the adjacent Ishmd.t, and seemed also le»s orderly, >vh cli may, perhaps be owing to their having berome subjects to the inha- bitants of Bidabola. Oreo, their chief, is only a kind (►f deputy to the Bolabolan monarch ; and the conci^uest seems to have diininished thenufnberof subordinate chiefs resident amoui^i them : they are, therefore less iwider the immediate eye of those whose in- terest it is ro infbrce a proper obedience. Though Ulietea, is now reduced to this AND ROUND THE WOULD. 670 usiues$ hwiiic done, and the Captain re- turned on iKv.ird, we hoisted in our boats, and made sail to the north. Winle we were; tlms enij)loye«l, we were visited by some of the natives, who came off in three or four canoes to see the ships. They brought with them one pi^, and a few cocoa-nuts. Had We reniuiiied at this Island till the next day, we should probably have been supplied with plenty of provisions; and the natives would, douljiless, be disappointed when they found we were }ione ; but having already a pood stock of hogs and fruit on board, and not many articles left to purchase more, we had no inducement left to defer the prosecution of our voyage. Oteavanooa, the harbour of Bolabola, si- tuated on the west side of the Island, is very capacious; and, though we did not enter it, Capt. Cook had the satisfaction of being in- formed by those employed tor the purpose, that it is a very proper place for the reception of ships. Towards the middle of this Island is a lofty doubl -peaked mountain, which appeared to be barren on the east side, but on the west side has some trees and bushes. The lower grounds towards the sea, like the other Islands of this ocean, are covered with cocoa-palms and bread-fruit trees. There are many little Islots that surround it, which add to the number of its inhabitants, and to the amount of its vegetable prodnclions. Considering the small extent of Bolabola, being" only twenty-four miles in circumfer- ence, it is remarkable that its people should have been able to conquer Ulietea and Ota- ha ; the former being alone more than dou- ble its size. In each of Captain Cook's three voyages, the war that produced this great revolution was frequently mentioned ; and .)s the history thereof may be an agreeable entertainnieiU to our subscribers, we shall hftie give it as related by themselves. Ulietea and Otaha had long been friends ; or, as the natives express it emphatically, they were considered as two brothers, whose views and itderests were the same. The Is- land of Huaheine was al chieved before Capt. Cook was there in 1769; hut it was very apparent that peace had not l)een long resJored, as marks of recent hos- tilities having been committed were then to be seen. Ry p.(tending to the age of Tee- re»'tareea, the present chief of Huaheine, some additiimal collateral proof may be ga- thered. He did not appear to be more than ten or twelve years of age, and his father, we were informed, had been killed in one of the engagements. Since the conquest of Ulieiea and Otaha, the Bolobola men aVe considered as invincible ; and their fame is so tar extended, that, even at Otalieile, if not dreaded, they are respected for their val- our. It is ass'^rted, they never fly from an enemy, and that they are victorious against an equal number of the other Islanders. These ascribe ranch to the superiority of their 2["d, who, they believed, detained us hy contrary winds at Ulietea. The estima- tion in which the Bolabola men are held at Otaiieite, may be gathered from M. de Bou- pinville's anchor having been sent to their soveteic^n. The intention of transporting the Sjiaiiish bull to their Island, must be asciib- ed to the same cause. They also had a third European curiosity, brought to Ota- iieite by the Spaniards. This animal had been so imperfectly described by the natives, that we had been mtijh puzzled to conjec- ture what It could be. Somegood> however, gtnerally springs up out of evil. Whe» 5 Capt. Clerke's deserters were brojight back from Bolabola, they told us the aninml had been shewn to them, and that it was a ram. Had our men not deserted, it is probable we should never have known more about it. In consequence of this intelligence, the Captain, when he landed to meet Opoony, tooK an ewe with him in the boat, of tlie Cape of Good Hope breed, whereby a foun- dation is laid for a breed of sheep at Bola- bola. He also left with Oreo, at Ulietea. two goats, and an English boar and sovv : so that the race of hogs will be considerably iniurov- ed, in a few years, at Otaheite, and all the neighbouring Islands; and they will, per- haps be stocked with many vabjaJble Euro- pean animals. When this is really the case, these Islands will be unrivalled in abund- ance and variety of refreshments for tb* sup- ply of future navigators. Even in their pre- sent state, they are hardly to be excelled^ When the inhabitants are not distjirbed by intestine broils, which has been the case f >r several years past, their productions are nu-s merous and plentiful. Had we been possessed of a greater assort- ment of goods, and a proper quantity of salt, we might have salted as much pork as wouhl have been sufficient to last both ships almost a year: but we quite exhausted our trading commodities at the Frien a cask, and covered with pici^le. It remained in this situation four or five days, when it was taken out, and carefully examined ; and if any of it appeared to be in the least tainted, which sometimes happened, it was sopai'ated from the rest» which wa& repacked, headed ; I* ■ n;i>l; W^f- li'V 392 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLK. up. aiu} filJeil with good j)ickle. It was again exaiuined in about eij^ht or ten days lime, but tliere appeared no necessity for it, as it was generally found to be »\\ perfectly cured. Bay and white suit mixed together answers the best, though either of theui will do alone. Great care was taken that none of the large blood-vessels remained in the meat ; and that not too much should be packed together at the first sal tins^', lest those |iieces which are in the middle should heat, and hinder the salt from jienetrating them. In tropical climates, meat ought not to be waited in rainy sultry weather. Europesins liaving; of late so frequently visited these Is- landers, they may, on that account, have been induced to breed a larger stock of hogs ; knowing that, whenever we come, thev may be certam of receiving what they ..^leem a valuable consideration for them. They daily expect the Spaniards at Otaheite, and in two or three years time, they will doubtless expect the English there, as well as at the other Islands. It is useless to assure them tiiat you will not return, for they suppose vou cannot avoid it ; though none of them know or enquire the reason of your coming. It would, nerhaps, have been better for the people to nave been ignorant of our superi- ority in the accommodations and arts that make life comfortable, than, after once knowing it, to be abandoned to their origi- nal incapacity of improvement. They can- not be, indeed restored to their former happy mediocrity, should the intercourse between us be discontinued. It is in a manner in- cumbent on the Europeans to pay them oc- casional visits (once in three or four years) to supply them with those articles, which we, by introducing, have ^iven them a predilec- tion for. The want ot such supplies may be severely felt, when it is too late to return to their old imperfect contrivances, which they have now discarded, and despise. When the iron tools with which we furnished them are worn out, their own tvill be almost for- gotten. A stone hatchet i > now as great a curiosity among them; as an iron one was seven or eight years ago ; and a chissel made of bone, or stone, is no where to be seen. Spike^ nails have been substituted in the 6 room of the latter articles, and Ihey an.' weali eii«Hgh to imagine that their store of fhein is inexhaustible, for they are no hm^-er sought atter. Knives happened at this tiiiw to be in high estimation at I'liclea; ami axes and hatchets bore unrivalled sway at all the Islands. Respecting articles nieiply ornamental, these Islanders are as capriciotK as the most polished European nations ; for an article which may be prized to-»lay will be rejected to-morrow, as fashion or wliim may alter. But our iron imphinents are so evidently useful, that they must continue to be high in their estimation. They would indeed be miserable, if they should cease to receive supplies of what appears necessary to their comfortable existence, as they are destitute of the materials, and ignoraiM o| the art of fabricating them. Much has already been related resjiectinij Otaheite ; which though not comprehended in the number of what we have denominated the Society Islands, yet, being inhabited by the same race of men, agreeing in the snme leading features of character and manners, it was fortunate that we happened to discover this prircipal Island before the others, as the hospitable reception we there met with, led ii"* to make it the principal place of resort, in our successive voyages to this part of the Paci/ic Ocean. By our repeated visits, we have jiad better opportunity of knowing somelhim' about it and its inhabitants, than about (lie other similiar, but less considerable Islands in its vicinity. Of these latter, however, we have seen enoug'i to satisfy us, that all we have observed of Otaheite may, with triflin;' alterations, be applied to them. During out continuance at these Islands, we lost no op- portunity of makin;; astronomical and nau- tical observations. At Otaheite and Ulieten we particularly remarked the tide, with a view of ascertaining its grandest rise at the former place. Also, by the mean of 14:3 sets of observations, we determined the latitude and longitude of the three following plates Matavai Point, at Otaheite I7» 29' 15' S. lat. 218° 22" 28' Owbarre barbour, at Hueheine 16 42 45 i!Oa 52 24 Ohamaneno ditto, at Ulietea IS 45 3u 20» as 22 £, lus. It may be thought by some, the Island of Otaheite has been already and so often ACCUl turns amp! er vo but, I of thi stitut f is its stood lowin to the iJiiiy t pictur a I read our U) by tht have g vniir "To (says JV success Bou gai first si| tiling ; con Id n what hi ever, fa will vei aocuratt the mos has l)eei tain Cof /hat in made, w be ', we im/iortai these pe frequent us had more we properly to the sa attendin language C'oiilii re niards hj monnt tl hai than any superior have h now. AND ROtiictiiie, the outlines of which have been already given, will be highly acceptable to our nnnierous friends and subscribers, who, by their kind encoura''''l m\ VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, lightning. It is rolled Etna, and often »«c- ceedii the Toeroii ; an does also the Farooa, which is still more southerly; and, from its violence, blows down hoiisis and trees, espe- cially the cocoa-palms, from their loftiness ; but it is of short duration. The natives seem not to have a very accurate knowledije of these changes, and yet pretend to have drawn some (i^eneral conclusions from their eiTects ; for when the sea has a hollow sound, and (lushes slowly on the reef, they say it |>or- tends good weather; but if it has a sharp sound, and the waves succeed each other fast, that the reverse will happen. " There is, perhaps, scarcely a spot in the nniverse, that aitords a more luxuriant |)ros- pect than the S. E. part of the Island of Otaheite. The hills are high and steep and in many places, craggy : but they are co- vered fo the very summits, with tites and shrubs, so that a spectator cannot help think- ing, fliat the very rocks possess the property of producing and supporting their verdant clothing. The flat land which bounds those hills toward the sea, and the interjacent val- leys, also teem with various productions that grow with the most exuberant vigour; and, at once, till the mind of the beholder with the idea, that no place on the earth can ex- cel this, in the strength and beauty of vege- tation. Nature has been no less liberal in distributing riv.ulets, which are found in every valley ; and as they afiproach the sea, often divide into two or three branrhes, fer- tilizinsr the flat lands through wiiicii ttiey run. The habitations of the natives are scattered without order, upon these flats ; and many of them appearing toward the shore, presented a delightful scene, viewed from our ships; especially as the sea, within the reef, which bounds the coast, is perfectly still, and aflbrds a safe navigation, at all times, for the inhabitants, who are often seen paddling in theii canoes indolently along, in passing from place to place, or in going to fish. On viewmg these delightful scenes, I have often regretted my inability to trans- mit to those who have had no opportunity ol seeing them, such a description as might, in some measure, convey an impression si- utilar to what must be felt by every one, who has been fortunate enough to be on the sjiot." •' It it, doubtless, the natural fertility of the country, combined with the mildness and sjpreniiy of the climate, that renders the na- tives so careless in their cultivation, that in many places, though abounding with the richest productions, the smallest traces of it cannot bo observed. The cloth-plant which is raised from seeds brought from the mountains, and the ava, or intoxicating pepper, which they defend from the sun when very young by covering them with the leaves of the bread- fruit tree, are almost the only things to which they setm to pay any attention ; and these they keep very clean. I have inquired very carefully into their manner of cultivat ing the bread-lVuit-tree ; but was always answered, that they never planted it. This indeed, must be evident to every one who will examine the places Avhere the young trees come up. It will be always observed, that they spring from the roots of the old ones ; which run near the surfa'^-* of the ground : so that the bread-fruit s may be reckoned those that would nati cover the plains, supposing that the Island w^s not inhabited, in the same manner that the white-barked-trees, found at Van Diemcn's Land, constitute the forests there. And from this we may observe, that an inhabitant of Otaheite, instead of being obliged to plant his bread, will rather be under a necessity of preventing its progress ; which, I suppose, is sometimes done, to give room for trees ot another sort, to afford him a variety in his food. The chief of these are the cocoa-nut and plantain ; the first of which can give no trouble, after it has raised itself a foot or two above the ground ; but the plaintain requires a little more care: for after it is planted, it shoots up, and, in about three months, begins to bear fruit ; during which Inne it gives j^ounjr shoots, which supply a succession of fruit ; for the old stocks are cut down as the fruit is taken oflT. The products of the Island however, are not so remarkable for their variety, as great abundance ; and curiosities of any kind are not nnuieroiis. Among these we may reckon a pond or lake of fresh water, at the top of one of thti i lo- AND ROUND lUK VVOULVi; o &80 %ji |)i^!lAlit mounfaind, to ^o to, and return from wliii.'li, talies three or four days. It is re- markable for its deptii ; nud has eels of an eiioi'uiuus size in it; which are sonietimcs cuufrlit by the natives, who go upon this MUter in little flouts of two or three wild plantain-trees fastened together. This is e>teeuied one of the jjreutest natural curiosi- tits of the country ; insomuch, that travel- |e!'<, who couie fiom the other Islands, are conituonly asked among the first questions, |>y (heir friends, at their return, if they have M en it ? There is also a sort of water, of^which llif le is only one small pond upon the Island, as tar distant as the lake, and to appearance vt^iy good, with a yellow sediment at the Ixtttoni ; but it has a bad taste : and proves fiita! to those who drink any quantity of it, ur makes them break into blotches, if they batiie in it. " Nothing made a stronger impression, at first sight, on our arrival here, than the con- trast between the robust make, and dark co- jour of the people of Tongataboo, and a sort ofdelicac}; and whiteness, which distinguish the inhabitants of Otaheite. It was even some time before that difference cou|d pre- ponderate in favour of the Otaheiteans ; and ^hen only, perhaps, because we became ac- customed to them, the marks which recom- mended the others began to be forgotten. Their women, however, struck us as superior ill every respect ; and as possessing all those delicate characteristics, which distinguish them from the other sex in many countries. The beard, which the rae» here wear lon^, and the hair which is not cut so short, as is the fashion at Tongataboo, made aho a great (Iitfer«>uc6 ; and we could not help thinking, that on every occasion, they shewed a great- er degree of timidity and fickleness. The muscular appearance, so common among the Friendly Islanders, and which seems a con- sequence of their being accustomed to much action, is lost here, where the superior ferti- lity i)i their country enables the inhabitants to lead a more indolent life ; and its place is supplied by a plumpness and smoothness of the skin; which, though perhaps more CMif^rMiant with our ideas of beauty, is no real adyants^e ; as it seems to be attended 4 F with a kind of lungour in all their motions, , nut observable in the others. This reuiark, is fully verified in their boxing and wrest- ling, which iiiuy be called little better than the feeble ellorls of Hiildren, if compared to the viffour with whiwh they are performed ^| the Friendly Islands. '* Amon^ these people, personal endow- ments are in i;real esteem, aiul they have re- course to srverulniethods of in) proving them accordiiv^ to their notions of beauty. It is a practice, in partieidar, especially among the Erreoes, or unmarried men of some con- sequence, to undergo a kind of physical ope- ration to render them fair. J his is done by remaining a month or two in the house; during which time they wear a quantity of clothes, eat nothing but bread-fruit, to which they ascribe a reumrkable property in whit- ening them. They also speak, us if their corpulence and colour, at other tin.ies, de- pended on their food, as they are obliged', irom the change of seasons, to use different sorts at different times. Their comnton diet is made up of, at least, nine tenths of veue- table food ; and I believe, more particularly, the Mahee, or fermented bread-fruit, which is a part of almost every meal, has a remark- able effect on them, preventing a costive habit, and producing a very sensible cool- ness abont them, which could not be per* ceived in ns who ieiX on anin>al food, and it is, perhaps, owing to this temperate course of lile, that they have so tew diseases among them. They reckon only five or six, w hicli might be called chronic, or national disor- ders ; among which are the dropsy, and 1h« fesai, or indolent swellings, frequent at Ton. gataboo. 13ut this was before the arrival of the Europeans ; for we have added to this short catalogue a disease which abun • iiiteiTourse with tlienatives,while we nowre- vers. We know that wounds will heal over in;iii;{'d there." (lu our history of Capt. leaden bullets ; and sometimes thojiuli rait ly Conk's furmer voyage, we have given to the over other extraneous boilies. Biit whiit j)i:l)lio very odjmous specimens of the lau- makts me entertain some doubt of the trutli uiiiii^o of Otaheite, New Zealand, &c. which of so extraordinary skill, as in the aliove- v,e liittter ourselves will be thought sufficient mentioned instance, is that in ol her cases for tlieir information, amusement, and every that fell under my own observation, they useful ;nupo.se.) " It abounds with beautiful are far from being so dextrous. I have seen ;md {i"j;nrative expressions, which were it the stump of an arm which was taken off, jxifeclly known, would, 1 make no doubt, after being shattered by a fall froai a tree, |)iit it upon a level with many of the langna- that bore no marks of skilful opfnitit.n, pes tliat are most in esteem for their warm though some allowance he made (or tjiv^ir •M)d bold images. For instance ; theOtahei- defective instiuments : and I nsot uitii a niau leiiiis express their notions of death very em- going aboat u ith a dislocated shonlder, some ])!:;!tically, by saying, " That the soul goes mouths alter tlie aecideut, iVom their being into darkness 5 or rather into night." And if ignorant of tlie !*:ethod to reduce it ; tliougii vol! seem to entertain any doid)t, in asking this be considered as one of the simplest ilio question, " If such a person is their mo- oj)erations of our ji>urgoiy. They Know frao- ther?" they immediately reply, with surprize, tnres or luxations of llie spine are mortal. 'Yes, the mother that bore me." They have but not fractures of the skull ; and they like- one expression, that corresponds exaeSly wise know, from experience, in what part with the phraseology of the scriptures, where of the body, wounds prove fatal. They liave \\s read of the " yearning of the bowels." sometimes pointed out those intlicted by They use it on all occasions, when the pas- spears, which if made in the direction tiiey sions give them uneasiness ; as they con- mentioned, would certainly have bellt of hogs. The king then «>i,iers s,>,i' of them to be killed, on whirh ror y fea^^t ; i,,(| after that, every one returns hoiije >yu:, |j^ berty to kill what Uf |)tea*jes for his (,uii nsfe. Such a prohibition was acfually in for,>(j ,,„ our last arrival here: ai least, in all :liuse districts their own other respects, has evident traces ofthepre- victuals ; for they would certainly starve, be- valence of humane and tender feelings. fore any grown man would do them such a When an erreoe woman is delivered of a service. In .his, as well as in some other child, a piece of cloth dipped in water, is customs relative to their eating, there is a applied to the inouth and nose, which suf- inysterious conduct, which Me coul lever focates it. As in such a life, their women thorotighly comprehend. When we . i •; lir- must contribute a vtry large share of its hap- ed into the reasons of it, we could get no piness, it is rath«i>r ^uprising besides the hu- other answer, but that it is right and neces- m iiating restraints they are laid under with sory it should be so. In other customs, re- regarl to food to liuthing, how- the father of the girl such things as are ne- ever is more common, than to see the men cessary in common life, as hogs, cloth, and beat them without mercy; and unless this canoes, in proportion to the time they are treatment is the ffect of jealousy, which together; and if he thinks that he has not both sexes, nt ' ast, pretend to be .sometimes been sufficiently |)aid for his daughter, he infected with il will be ditlicult to account makes no scruple of forcing her to leave her for it. It will be less difficult to admit this iVieud, and to cohabit with another person as the motive, as I have seen several instan- wlio may be more liberal. The man, on ces where the women have preferred personal his ])art, is always at liberty to make a new beauty to interest ; though I must own, that choice; but shonld his consort become preg- even in these cases, they seem scarcely sus- nant, he may kill the child ; and after that, ceptible of those delicate sentiments, that !iv ; «, i i? .¥\ 500 VOYAGE TOWAllDS THE NOIM II POLE, are the result of mntnal affection ; and, I believe that ihere is less platonic love in Otaheite, than in any other country. " Their religious system is extensive, anil, in many instances, singular ; but few of the eoniinon people have a perfect knowledge of it ; that being confined chietly to their priests, who are pretty numerous. They d<» not seem to pay respect to one god as posses- sing pre-eminence; but believe in a plurality of divinities, who are all very powerful ; and in this case, as different parts of the Island, and the other Islands in the iieitrhbourhood, have different «mes, the inhabitants of each, no doubt, think that they have chosen the most eminent, or, at least, one who is invest- ed with power sufficient to protect them, and to supply all their wonts. If he should not answer their expectations, lliey think it no impiety to change ; as has very lately hap- |)ened atTiaraboo, where, in the room of two clivinities fomerly honoured, Olla, god of Bo labola, has been adopted, I should stippose, because he is the protector of a people who have been victorious in war; and as, since they have made this change, they have been very successful themselves against the inha- bitants of Otaheite-nooe, they impute it en- tirely to Olla, who as they literally say, fights their battles. Their assidinty in serv- ing their gods is remarkably conspicuous. Not only the whattas, or ofiering places of the morais, are commonly loaded with fruits and animals ; but there are few houses where you do not meet with a small place of the same sort near them. Many of them are so rigidly scrupulous, that they will not begin a meal, without first laying aside a morsel for the eJatooa ; and we had an op|)artuni!y during this voyage, of seeing their supersti- tious zeal carried to a pernicious heiglit, in the instance of human sacrifices, the occa- sions of offering which, I doubt, are too fre- quent. Perhaps, they have recourse to them when misfortunes occur; for they usktd, if one of our men, who happened to be confin- ed, when we were detained by a contrary wind, was taboo ? Their nrayers are also very frequent, which they cnant much after the manner, of the songs in their festive en- tertainments. And the woraen^ as in other a cases, are also obliged to shew their inferii. rity in religious observances ; Jiorit isref|ui)- ed of them, that they should p^ntly un.-'ovt r themselves, as they pass the morais ; ny tjike a considerable circuit to avoid them. Thoimij they have no notion that their god mt;st aU ways be conferring benefits, without some- times forgetting them, or suf'tring evil fo befal them, they seem to regard this less than the attempts of some more inauspicious being t , hurt them. They tell us, that eteu is an evil spirit, who sometimes does us niiv- cliief, and to wliom, as well 3s to their ;.vo()(| beinsr, they make oflerings. But the Uiis- chiefs they apprehend from any superior in- visible agents, .^re confine*! to things merely temporal. They believe the soul to be hoth immaterial and inimortal. They say, tjuit it keeps fluttering about the lips duinig M:e pangs of death ; and that tlicMi it asoeiuls, and niixes witii, or, as they express it. j^ eaten by the deity. Isi this slate it remains for some time; after which, it lieparts to a certain j)lace destined for the reception ol the souls of men, where it exists in eternal night ; or, as they sometimes say in twiliuht or dawn. They have no idea of any [vr- mnnent punishment after death, for crimes they have committed on earth ; for the souls of good and bad men are eat indiscriminateiy by the deity ; but they certainly consider this coalition with him as a kind of piniii- calion necessary to be undergone, before they enter into a state of bliss; for accord in:? to their doctrine, if a man refrain from all connection with women some months before {leath, he passes immediately into his eternal mansion, without such a previous union, as if alrea !y, by this id)stiuence, he were pure eiiougli ( ) be exem|)ted from the general lot. Til.' y ore, however, far from entertain- ing such su!)lime conceptions of happiness, which our religion, and, indeed reason gives us room to expect hereafter. The only great privilege they seem to think they shaJI ac- quire by death, is immortality, for tliey speak of spirits beinir, in some measure, not t>tally divested of those passions which ac- tuated them when combined with maferiai vehicles. Thus if souls, who were fornnlly enemies, should meet, they have many ATSD uoum; i i i 'i V OllLD. 591 "-111 t;,. conflicts ; though it should seem, to no pur- reliyions oflioes pi'oc::i\ s lliem every temi)o- pose, as they are accounted imnlneriibie in ral blessinff. And a'« I iiey believe, that the this invisilife sJate. There is a similar rea- ouimaling' and {JON^erfnl intlnence of the sonii)^' \\i»h rei^ard f(» a man and his wife deify is «very whoe antly absurd. They believe, that he is sinus of ghosts, at the sight of a churcli- sul)ject to the power of those very spirits to yard; and they have an equal confidence whom he has given existence ; and that, in in drearis, which they suppose to be com- their turn, they frequently eat or devour municadons either from their god, or from him, thouiih he possess the power of reereat- the spirits of their departed friends, enabling in? himself. They doulitless, use this mode those favoured with them to foretel future of expression, as they seem incapable of events; but this kind of knowledge is con- conversing about immaterial things, without iined to particular people, Omiah pretend- constantly referring to material objects to ed to have this gift. He told us, that the convey their meaning. And in this manner soul of his father intimated to him in a dream, they continue the account, by saying, that on the 26th of July, 1776, that he should go in the Tourooa, the deity enquires, if they on shore, at some place, within three days ; intend, or not, to destroy Inm ? And that he but he was unfortunate in this first attempt he is not able to alter their determination, to persuade us that he was a prophet; for it This is known to the inhabitants on earth, was the 1st of August before we got into Te- as well as to lli«^ spirits ; for when the moon neriffe. Among them, however, the dreani- isin its wane, it is said, that they are then ers possess a reputation little inferior to that devonrini? their eatooa : and that, as it in- of their inspired priests and |)riestesses, creases, he is renewing himself. And to whose predictions they implicity believe, and this accident, not only the inferior, but the are determined by them in all undertakings most eminent gods are liable. They also of consequence. The [)riestess who persuad- lielif ve, that there are other places for the ed Opoony to invade Ulietea, is much re- leception of souls after death. Thus, those spected by him ; and he never goes to war \vho are drowned in the sea, remain there ; without consulting her. They also, in some where they think that there is a fine coun- degree, maintain our old doctrine of j-jla- try 'oases, and every thing that can make netary influence; at least, they are s«>metinies tiieiii hai)py. But wjiat is more singular, regulated, in their public counsels, by cer- Ihey maintain, that not oidy all other ani- tain appearances of the moon ; particularly mais, but trees, fruit, and even stones, have when lying horizontally, or much inclined souls, which at death, or upon being con- on the convex part, on its first appearance Slimed, or broken, ascend to the divinity, after the change, they are encouraged to eu- with whom they first mix, and afterwards gage in war, with confidence of success, pass into the mansion allotted to each. They "They have traditions concerning the imagine, that their punctual performance of creation, which as mis;ht be expected, are '•t' -A Pfi m 592 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, complev, and clouded with obscurity. 1 hey \ay, that a ffO(ldesur- int? Islands. They have also notions of an universal creation,' and of lands, of whit!) they have now no other knowledge thnn what IS mentioned in their traditions. Their most remote account reaches to Ta- tooma and Tapuppa, male and female stones or rocks, who support the mass of (; nd and U'ater <»r our globe underneath. Ti)e> «;, and thrusting them into .iects of mahef , desired one of the Taheeai to open his monlli' On which, one of these pieces wso droppe*se''oi M ANb .^OUND THE \MmLD. 593 Knaheine, a J?reat number of his kinsmen to it, is set up somewhere near, to wlijcli were slain. But one of liis relations liad af- they pay the same honours. His brothers tervvard, an opportunity of revenging him- are also intitled to the first part of the cere- self, when the Bolabola men were worsted ill their turn, and cutting a piece out of the tliigh of one of his enemies, he broiled and eat it. I have also frequently considered the ottering of the person's eye, who is sacri- ficed, and ottered to the chief, as a vestige of ii custom which once really existed to a ;r|-eater extent, and is still commemorated by this emblematical ceremony." " The being invested with the niaro, and the presiding at human sacrifices, seem to be peculiar characteristics of the sovereign. To these, perhaps may be added the blow- mony ; but the women only uncover to the females of the royal family: in short, they seem even superstitious in their respect to him, and esteem his person little less than sacred. And it is, perhaps, to these circum- stances, that he owes the quiet possession oi his dominions. For even the people of Ti- araboo allow him the same honours as his right ; though at the same time, they look upon their own chiefs as more powerful ; and say, that he would succeed to the go.- vernment of the whole Island, should the present reigning family become extinct. iiig a conch-shell, which produces a very This is the inor^ likely, as Waheiadooa not V)U(I sound. On hearing it, aJI his subjects only possesses 'J'iaraboo, but many districts are obliged to bring food of every sort to his of Opooreano. His territories, therefore, are royal residence, in proportion to their abi- almost equal, in extent, to those ofOtoo; lilies- On some occasions, tliey carry their and he has, besides, the advantage of a more veneration for his very name, to an extrava- populous and fertile part of the Island. gaiit and very destni.Mive pitch. For if, on bis accession to the maro, any words in their language be found to have a resem- blance to it in sound, they are changed for others; and if any man be bold enough not tocomplVi and continue to use those words, not only lie, but all his relations, are imnie< diately put to death. The same severity is exercised toward those who shall presume to apply this sacred name to any animal. And, agreeably to this cusionn of his conn- Mis subjects, also have given proofs of their >Mperiority ; by frequent victories over those of Otaheite-nooe, wlnnn they att'ect to speak of as contemptible warriors, easily to be worsted, if at any time, their chief should wish to put it to the test." *' The ranks of people, besides the eree de hoi, and his famdy, are the erees, or pow- erful chiefs ; the manahoone, or vassals ; and the teou or toutou, servants, or rather slaves. The men of each of these, accord- tryinen, Omiah u being; skiodf AND ROUND THE WOULD. 5D6 fislies. At the same lime, they are ornn- Otalieit'* are acquaifitc<1 willi a low uulnha- r.icnteii with polished pearl-shells, which l»itiil Isliuul, which they mune Mopf t^lwi, lUsiUe a prodigious glittering: in the stm ; and s«etus to he Hoove's Island, lai.i down and they have a very large one that covers fo llie westward arJs of this ocean, 'io this the iithahi- Uat Otaheite is remarkable for produinnt? tan^s oi* the most leeward IslandsMouictMnes great quantities of that delicious fruit we f,T'>. 'J it fie are also several low Islands \q called apples, which are found in one of the horth-eastward «»(' Otaheite, which they the other Islands, except Euneo. It has have sometimes visited, hut not constantly ; also the advantage of producing an odorile- and are said to be only at the di<:tance of rous wood, called Eahoi, which is highly two days sail with a fi;ir wind. They are valued at the other Isles, where there is thus named Mataeeva, Oanaa or Oannah, none ; nor in the south-east peninsula, or Taboohoe, Awehee, Kaoora, Orootooa, and Tiaraboo, though joining it. Huaheine and Otavaoo, where are large pearls. Kinieo again, are remarkable for producing " The inhabitants of these Islands come ureater quantities of yams than the other frequently to Otaheite and the other nei^h- [slands. And at Mourona there is a parti- bouring high Islands, from whose natives cidar bird, found upon the hills, much they ditfer in being of a darker colouf, with esteemed for its white feathers; at which a tiercer aspect, and differently punctured, place there is also said to be some of the an- I was informed, thatat Mataeeva, and oilier's pies, though it is the most remote of the of them, it is the custom for the nun to give hociety Islands from Otaheite and Oimeo, their daughters to strangers who arrive where they are produced. among them ; but the pairs must be five "Though the religion of all the Islands nights lying near each other, without pre- is the same, each of them has its particular suming to proceed farther. On the sixth or tutelar god, whose names, according to evening, the father of the young woman the best information I could obtain, are enu* treats his guest with food, aitd informs his inerated in the following list. Gods of the Isles, Taime - - - - Huaheine Ooro ----- Ulietea Tanne - - - - Otaha Olla ----- Bolabola Otoo, ee weiahoo - Mourooa Tamouee - - - Toobaee CTabooymanoo, or jSauuder's Island, 'subject toHuaheine. Eimeo 50taheite and ^Otaheite nooe i Tiaraboo 5 !VIataia or ^Osnaburgh Island Taioa - - - Oroo hadoo Ooroo - - - Opoonooo and Whatooteree Too boo, toobooai ? and Ry maraiva S m (The low Islands east Tammaree - - " J^ard. . . ter, they carried them on board a canoe, in, "Besides the cluster of high Islands from which they made their escape; and, atter Mataia to Motirooa inclasive, the people of passing Mataia, at which they would r.ol daughter, that she must that night receive him as her husband. The stranger, how- ever, must not offer to express the least dis- like, though the bed-fellow allotted hi x he ever so disagreeable ; for this is considered as an unpardonable affront, and is pnnisled with death. Forty men o*' Boiabola, \\ ho, incited by curiosity, had roamed as far as Mataeeva in a canoe, were treated in this manner; one of them having incautiousiy mentioned his dislike of the woman uIiq fell to his lot, in the hearing of a boy who informed her father. In consequence of this, the Mataeevans fell upon them ; but these warlike people killed three times their own number, though with the loss of all their party, except five. Those hid them- selves in the woods, and took an opportu- nity, when the others were Uurying their dead, to enter some houses, where, having provided themselves with victuals and wa- ^^4M •IV ■ l^v' ■ tdii \k P-Y^-m, *?! 6r)o VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, toieli, nt Inst nrrived safe at Eiineo. The 11«>1 jhoians, however, were sensible enoii«:h th-it their travellers hnd been to blame ; ior a caii'?e from Mateeva arriving some time after at Bolabola, so far were they from rtftaliatiniT ujion them for the death of their countrymen, thiit they acknowledged they \f&ii deserv«d (heir fate, and treated their vii«itors with mnch hospitality. These low Isl«s are, donhiless the farthest navi(>:ation, which thititntes a grand division of this vast con- they coin seven hundred thousand marks tinent, and of which we propose now to into pieces of eight, quarter pieces, rials^ treat, is separated from the southern part by and half-pieces, the latter being about three- the isthmus of Darien, and extends from pence sterling value. The trade of Spanish that isthmus to within a few degrees of the America has been carried on for some years north pole. In the {leriod of more than two past by vessels, called register ships; and centuries and a half, geographers were not the chief commodities of this country are able to ascertain the limits of the northern ijcold, silver, exquisite marble» porphyry, extremity ; this was a task to be performed jasper, precious stones, pearls, amber, gin- by Capt. Cook in his third and last voyage, ger, tobacco, hides, tallow, salt, dying woods, Old Mexico, or New Spain, a rich and drugs, balsams, honey, feathers, chocolate, extensive country, was once a mighty em- cochineal, silk, sugar, cotton^ wool, &c. pile, ruled by its own monarci.s, till the The inhabitants are, at present, a mixed Spaniards, by whom it was at first discover- people, consisting of Indians, Spaniards, ed in 1598, afterwards conquered it, under and other Europeans ; the Creoles, mesti- tlie command of Fernando Cortez. It lies cboes, or issue of the Spaniards by Ameri- betvveen 7 deg. 30 min. and 30 deg. 40 min. cans, the mestiches, or the issue of sucli north latitude, is two thousand miles long, issue ; the terceroons dez Indies, or the six hundred broad where widest, has the children of the last, married to Spaniards ; isthmus of Darien on the south, New Mex- and the quarteroons dez Indies, whose de- ico on the north, the gulp of Mexico on the scendants are allowed the same priviieues east, and the Pacific Ocean on the west, as true Spaniards. The ne^^roes are like' It is divided into the audiences of Guadala- wise pretty numerous, being imported from jara, Mexico, and Guatimala, and is go- the coast of Africa for various purposes, and veined by a viceroy. Mexico, considering many of them admitted to their freedom, its situation in the torrid zone, enjoys a The issue of an European and a negro con- temperate air. No country under heaven stitufes another distinction, called mulatto ; abounds more with grain, delicions fruits, besides all which there is a mixed breed of roots, and vegetables. On the western coast, negroes and Indians, which is generally near the Pacific Ocean, are some high deemed the lowest rank. mountains, most of which are said to be vol- The principal places are (1) Mexico, whicb canoes. Several rivers rise in these moun- stands in the middle of a great lake of its tains, and fall, some into the gulp of Mex- own name, about one hundred and seventy ico, an(l son>e into the South Sea, on both miles west of the gulph of Mexico. I'he winch there are several capes and bays. In number of inhabitants is computed at three (lie rocky, barren parts of the country, are hundred thousand; most of them live be- the gold and silver mines. There are, it is yond their fortunes, and terminate a life 5aitl, several of the former, and no fewer of profusion in the most wretched indigence. 5 % i '' If m i 9^ .ill 508 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, A pro(ljtfiofi]s quantity of jeweln, (fold aiic) silver plate, and toys tog'etii*^r with the ino<(t valuable commodities of Europe and Asia, ure exported to sale in the striets. California, a peninsula, is the most nor- thern ot all the Spanish dominions on the continent of America. It extends from the north coasts into the Pacitic Ocean, ei^ht liundred miles from Cape Sebastian, in 43 de^. 30 inin. north latitude, towards the soiitli-eust as for as Cape St. Litcar, in 2*2 de;;-. 3'i min. north lr';tU(K The eastern coast lies nearly parallel with that of Mex- ico opposite to it, and the sea I.etween is called the lake or gulp of Calitbrnia. Its breadth is very nnequal ; towards the north it is near two hundred miles, but at the isouth extremity it tapers away, and is scaicely fifty miles over. The more south- «ni part was known to the Spaniards soon afttr the discovery of Mexico ; for Cortez discovered it in 153'>, but they did not till Jately penetrate far into it, con tentinjf them- selves with the pearl fishery there. Several kinds of fruit are produced here; there are two species of deer peculiar to this country ; also a particular breed of sheep, buffaloes, beavers, or animals much resembbng them ; a peculiar species of wild hogs, lions, wild oats, and many other wild beasts. The horses, mules, oxen, and other quadrupeds, that have been imported hither from Spain and Mexico, multiply exceedingly- Of the two species of deer peculiar to California, titat called taye by the natives is greatly esteemed, and its flesh as well tasted as veni- son. The coast is plentifully stocked with birds, and there is a great variety of fish in the gulp of California, the Pacific Ocean, and the rivers. Though insects swarm here, as in most hot countries, yet on account of the dryness of the soil and climate, they are neither noxious nor troublesome. There is one of the richest pearl fisheries in the world, on the coast, and there are supposed to be mi>ne8 in the country. Here are two consi- derable rivers, namely Rio Collorado, and Rio du Garmel, with several smaller streams^ and fine ports, creeks, and roads, both on thfi cast and west side, which is the reason of its having been so much frequented by 6 English privateers. There are in tlie heart of the country plains of salt quite firm, and char as crystal. A great variety of savage tribes inhabit California. Those who live on the east side of the peninsula are {•reat enemies to the Spaniards ; but in other parts, they seem to be very hospitable to ajj sfranj^ers. The inland country, espfcially towards the north, is populous. The In- dians resemble those described in other parts of America. Siberia, a part of Russian, Tartary is bounded by the Frozen Ocean on the noWli; by China, and the Pacific Ocean, on the east ; by Tibet, Usbeck Tartary, the Caspian Sea, and Astracan Tartary, on tlie south ; and by European Russia, on the west; aiui is situate between sixty and one hiiiuhed and thirty degrees of eastern longitude, and between forty and seventy-two degrees of north latitude, being upwards of two thou- sand miles in length, and one thousand live hundred in breadth. The Tobel and Irtis are the chief cities of Siberia, which running fioin nortli to fquII,', join the Oby, the united stream tailing into the Frozen Ocean, and dividing Asia from Europe: the Lena and Jenissa, whicli run from north to south, fall also into the Frozen Ocean : the Yainonr and Argun whioli di- vide the Russian from the Chinese domi- nions, whose miited streams fall into the biiy of Corea. There are also a great many \i\r mountains having the malachites, in the form of stalactites and stataguites, in their cavities, very beautiful, and capable of beinj; polished. There is great choice of timber for a vari- ety of uses in Kamtschatka, as well as abun- dance of shrubs of divers kinds, they have also several excellent medicinal plants. Barley oats, peas, turnips, &c. grow like- wise here. The grass springs u|x so fast, that they have three harvests; and the blados arv» frequently five feet in height. This cojintry abounds with tame and wild fowls. Ihe wild animals are, black and white bears, wolves, lynxes, boars, elks, and a kind of stag very much like the fal- low-deer. The bear never attacks a man, unless they find him asleep, when they tear the scalp off the back part of the head, and sometimes entirely destroy him. Foxes are also very numerous, some are white some reddish-yellow ; some grey, with a black streak on the bark, and are much valued ; the white ones, however, are also valued, as being scarcer. There are also black-ches- nnt and blue breasted foxes ; and they arc in general too crafty lor their pursuers, their sagacity exceeding that of the other species. The opulence of the country consists in its sabiCiS and ermines ; the sables which are so'.d at a higfi price, excel those found in ?ay other part of the globe : the natives eat the flesh, and esteem it very fine food. Here is also found the gulo, or glutton ; likewise other kinds of beaver, as the atis,^ rein-deer, and sayga. The natives collect themselves in companies to hunt these ani- mals ; they go at the close of the winter from the month of March to the end of April, taking provisions with them. The glutton, which, hath a verjf fine fur^ Is a terrible ewemy to the deer: it will dart iisel^ * .. I; V !i • m|' ^^!, 000 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, :'»-;i'- J' from a tree upon a deer's back, and, fixing between tlie creature's horns, tear out his eyes : the tiffliotecl animal, with excess of ao^ony, Calh to the ground, wiien the glutton strips his tlesli from his bones. Dogs are very numerous in this country : they resemble the European, and live much upon mice and fish ; they scratch up the ground for the former, and seize the others fVom their streams. These dogs are ex- fremcly serviceable to th*^ natives, in drawing tlieir sledge-* over the snow : in the most dreadful weather, they scarce ever lose their way. Several sorts of amphibious animals are also rn Kamtschatka. One is the -ea-cow, obout thirty feet in length, and weighing BIX or seven thousand pounds, the sUin of which is so hard, that scarce a!« hatch:,! or axe will penetrate it. The ilesh of a young sea-cow, when properly boiled, has a good taste ; the lean part is somewhat like ♦ eal, and the fat part like pork. The method of catching this animal is, by an iron hook struck into it by some men in a small vessel, then by a rope held by people on shore, the sea-cow is drawn gradually to the land, while those in the r-essel cut the creature with instruments in several parts of the body, till it expires. It is not very diflicult to take the sea-cow from its elements, for it seldom raises it? head above the surface of the water, thoug'i its sides and back are often seen. Sea-horvesand sea-cats are also met with here*-. tljela\ter have lonv; hairs standing out on each sid'j of their mouths like those of" cat, and they weigh from five to eight thou- sand pounds: their eyes are as large as a bull's and they will fly at people in boats ; even if they are blinded by stones thrown at them they will not retire, but gnaw the very stones that are thrown ; however, when once deprived of sight, there it no great danger to be appre)jended from them. The male and female diii'v^rbolh in form and disposition; so much in form, that they might be taken for iliffei-ent animals ; and as to disposition, the female is mild, inolTensive, ond timid, as a proof of this when an attempt is made to 8 e/e a young sea-cat, and the iiiale, by vig- 8 ourously defending it, affords the female on opportunity of taking it off in its mo ith ; it; in this case, the female should happen u^^drop it, the male abandons its adversary, and ily. ing directly at the female, seizes lier with all imaginable fury ; when the latter, by licking his paws, and shewing every kind ot submis- sion, endeavours to mitigate his rage. Tlie seas aho abound with seals, which are caught by ditterent methods, sometimes they ure taken in the water, and at other times tliev are killed while sleeping nn the rocks. Here are whales from seven to fifteen fathunis long. Amongst a variety offish, here is the ster- let, which is so much like the sturgeon, that there is scarce any difference, except that it is smaller and more delicate ; it is so fat that it may be fried without oil. Some of the birds ot Kamtscatka are, ea- gles, hawks, pelicans, swans, geese, widgreons ducks, cuckoos, magpies, snipes, partridfjes, &c. A bird called the red neck diver is very ourious ; it has a beautiful spot on the lower ^art of its neck ; beneath this spot, thereare feathers of a bruvVki colour in the middle, and edtred all round with white ; the breast, belly and legs, ar^; of a very beautiful white. Sea-fowls are very numerous on the coast of the eastern ocean, as peacocks, sea-pies, green shanks, puffins, &e. Here too are the cormorant, sea-raven, and nrile. Clouds of dragon-flies, locusts, and gnats, are sometimes seen in this country. Tlie latter are so troublesome, that the inliahi- tants are obliged to vail their faces, to avoid them. The dragon-flies, forming columns, fly with incredible svvilhiess. The natives of Kamtsch-itka inhai^t the southern part of the peninsula ; the northern partis inhabited by the Koreki, and the south- ern by the Kuriles ; but Hie Russians call the whole country Kamtschatka, though it has several names given it from i)articul!ir circumstances. The Kamtschaciales are short in stature, and resemble most of the other inhabitants of Siberia, except that their faces are somewhat shorter, titeir mouths larger, and their cheeks fuller; they have dark hair, hollow eyes, sharp noses and tawny coinplexion« ; the latter is s;iid AND ROUND THE WOKLD. 601 Ui be principally owing to tlie influence of ^he sun reflected from the snow in the gprinjar-season, when the snow lies thick on tlie ground. Some of the natives, who are ohiiged to be in the woods, cover their faces witH a kind of netting, (o prevent the effects of the sun-beams darting on the snow ; for the eyfe-sight suffers by this refraction, as well as'the complexion. These people dress in deer-skins, with the fur outward ; they use also, fur this purpose, the skins of dogs and other animals. They often wear two coats, the sleeves of the outer coat reaching down to the knees ; they have a hood to it, which in bad weather serves to cover the head ; and they adorn the back part with shreads of skins, and sometimes of silks of different colours. The women wear the same sort of garments as the men, though Iheir coat, or rather waistcoat, sits closer to their bodies, and is decorated with slips of red, blue, and yellow cloth, and sometimes ribband, or woollen list. To this waistcoat is joined a sort of petticoat coming about halfway down the leg. The men wear a leather belt round them, and their legs are covered with different coloured skins ; they wear seal-skin caps or hats, and sometimes a cap or hat of birch bark; some have caps of brass plaited. The women let their hair grow much longer than the tnen ; they plait it, and hang brass trinkets to it : they have fur caps, that are black without, and white within. The men plait their hair, as well as the women. They never wash themselves, but live in a most beastly manner : they neither cut their nails, nor comb their hair. Tliey eat raw flesh, carrion, stale-fish, or any thing they can get, how filthy soever it i)e. They live in huts under-ground, cover- ed with grass or earth, and sometimes with the skins of the animals they have killed in tlie field, undressed, and yielding a noisome sttMich. They place benches in their hovels, with a fire-place in one comer, and on these benches they repose themselves. Some of the huts are covered and lined with mats. These are their winter dwellings ; nor are (linir summer retreats much more elegant, except that they are built on the surl'ice of Uie earth, and with rather more legnlarity. 4U Tliese, it is true, are built hiffh on pillows, with beams thrown across them, on which a floor is fixed, with a roof rising from each side to a centrical |)oint ; and, indeed it i.s necessary that their summer habitations should be thus high, else the inhabitants wojild be in continual danger from the wild beasts. They eat out of bowls, or troughs, with their dogs, and never wash them aiter- wards. We shall now take notice of their marria- ges. When a man hath met with a young woman that he likes, he engages into the service of her parents, and, after the expira- tion of a limited time of servitude, obtains either permission to marry her, or is dismis- sed with a requital for his service. If lie has leave to marry, the nuptials commence immediately, and the whole ceremony con- sists in .stripping the bride naked, whose clothes however, are so fast bound by straps and girdles, that he finds it no easy task to accomplish his purpose ; at this crisis seve- ral women shelter and protect her from him ; who, however, seeking an opportunity to find her less guarded, makes fresh efforts to undress her: but if slie cries out, and her exclamations bring assistance, the women who come, fail upon the man, scratching his face, tearing his hair, and otherwise roughly treating him ; till the bride, shew- ing some concern for his situation, and the women becoming less violent in their as- saults, the man at length succeeds, and then retires from her, who however calls hint back, and acknowledges in a soft i)laintire tone, that he has corfquered her. Tlius the ceremony ends, and the next day the happy couple repair to tiie hut of the husband. In about a week afterwards they make a visit to the wife's parents, w here they cele- brate the marriage feast with the relations of both parties. Some of the men marry three wives, who in general live friendly to- gether, and are never jealous. It is deemed a very capital ofience in a woman to procure abortion, yet if twins are born, one of tluin must be destroyed. The women put their infants in a basket fastened to an elastic pole, which is easily moved with the foot. to fock them. As soon as they can stand '■ I'i M r 1 i -i VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NOIMH POLE, on their legs, tlieir mothers leave them to themselves, sntftiiu^ them to roll on the ground any where ; they are most commonly half naked, and beel- led to it ; but steal privately to their huts and treat them most barbarously, cuttin* them to pieces, and even tearing out tliei^ entrails : these cruelties are exerci.sed with triumph and shouts of joy. Whenever they hear of.a foe advancing towards them, they retire to some mountain, and fortify it as strongly as possible : if there be a probabi- lity of the enemv getting the better of them, they immediately cut the throats of their wives and children, and then meet their '-ssailants with a frantic rage, .sellinir their lives as dear as possible. Their weapons are bows and arrows, and spears. The religious notions of the Kanitschfi. dales are pretty .singular. They erect a sort ot pillar on some plain, and cover it with a parcel of rags. Whenever they pass by this pillar, they thovv at it some fish or'fleMi, and avoid killing any bird or beast near ir. They think that woods and burning nionii- tains are inhabited by evil .spirits, whom they live ^u great fear of, and make them otferings; some of them have idols in ihcir huts. They have a very imperfect ijlea u( a supreme Being, and think he can iieitlier dispense happiness nor misery: the naiiu, which they have tor the deity, is Kiif( h,!. They reverence .some particular aniina! ana The the fit ward I ofinou with middle the var he view ideas, fire. ' of smol year 17 many pounds the fort which h O(fol)er kbbijig- AND ROUND THE WORLD. COS jimnetiines offer fires at the holes of toxes ; they imjilore wolves not to hurt them, and i>e»eecli amphibious iinimuls not to overset their boats. Many of them, liowever adopt the Russian manners, and contemu the cus- toms of their country; they have bei^n in- structed by Russian missionaries m the Christian rebgion ; and schools have been erected for their chihlren. They strictly observe the law of retaliation ; it one man kills another, the relations ef the person killed destroy the murderer. Thev punish theft, by burning the tingers of the thief. JJefore the Russians conquered them, they had such frequent intestine broils, that a year rarely passed without some village be- ing ruined. (ireat havoc is made in this country by tlie small-pox. The scurvy, with the irre- gularities of parents, bring a variety of dis- eases upon their otfspring, to cure which, Ihey apply roots, herbs, &c. The manner in which these people live in their huts, and their exi.-ess of debauchery, contribute to make the venereal disease very frequent among them. They have a disorder called the sushutoh, which is a sart of scab, to which they apply the raw skin of a hare to cause a suppuration. They are likewise subject to the palsy, jaundice, boils, cancers, and other disorders.' There are three volcanoes in Kamtschatka, the first is that of Awatcha, to the north- ward of the bay of that name ; it is a chain of mountains, the base of which is covered with trees, and extends to the bay. The middle forms a kind of amphitheatre, and the various summits which are spiral cannot be viewed without exciting the most awful ideas. They always emit smoke, but rarely fire. There was indeed a terrible cru|)tion of smoke and cinders in the summer of the year 1737, but it only continued one day; many of the cinders weiged almost two pounds avoirdwi)oise. This eruption was the forerunner of a terrible earthquake, which happened on the sixth of the ensuing ()(tol)er, and in a quarter of an hour over- liiiiit'd all the tents and huts of the Kaint- scliiuiales, being acc<»nipanied by a jiiiigular fcbbiua and klowins' of tiie sta, which at lint rose to the Vieight of twenty feet, then sunk, antl retired to an unusual distance; it soon after rose higher than at first, and suddenly sinking again, retired so astonishingly far from the common low-water mark, that it. was for a consi.ks of the river of that name. It is environed by a cluster of lesser mountains, and the bead is rent into long crevices on every .si«lf. Its greatest eruption began September 25th, 1737, and continued a week, which, with an earthquake that followed, did Vc;ry con- siderable damage. In the southern extre- mity of Kamtschatka there are hot si)rings : they form rivulets, and run abnost the lengtli of the river Ozernaya which issues from the lake Kurilsky, and then join that stream ; the waters, however, have no very considerable degree of heat in them. There is a mountain near the river Pan- dia, from whose summit a prodigious cata- ract of boiling waters run to a considerable distance; and continue boiling up to the '(t)eig;ht of a foot, till they lose tliemseives in several lakes, which contain a great num^- ber of Islands. From this mountain lli-i inhabitants obtain some beautiful stone.'<, on which they set a great value, on account of their admirable variegated colours, which are merely the effects of the different pow- ers of heat, humidity, and friction ; fortheso stones are washed from the mountams. and ;«re polished by the above mentioned hut and iuipetuo'as waters. During the winter, a great quantity o^ m" l'l#!^' lis m r,:,'V r "i I 0-04 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, fish harbour in the river of "Kamtschatka. In the spring when the ice lueaks they at- tempt to pet to the sea ; but the natives watch the heads of the rivers, and take a great number of them in a kind of net ; some they dry in the summer, and lay by for I heir winter food ; and from others they extract the fat, or oil, by means of red hot stones, which they carefully reserve for a great variety of uses. New Albion. This vast tract of land, and all the N. W. parts of America, are put down by all our geographers, m tlieir maps and charts, as Terra incognita, or parts en- tirely unknown. Sir Francis Drake, indeed, discovered a port in nearly 40 deg. N. lati- tude, which he entered, and where he re- mained five weeks. In 1603'Martin AgiiL lar entered a strait in latitude 45 deg^.'^N. and another was discovered by Juan de Fuca in 1592. All the other parts of the coast, except Cape Elias in latitude 60 dee. and some land discovered by the Spaniards, have remained objects of investigation, to be explored and accurately marked by our gallant Commander, Capt. Cook, whose discoveries in these parts, as high as Cape Prince of Wales, near the Artie Circle ; to- f ether with an account of his death at an sland, called Owhyhee, near Kamtscliatka, will be the subjects of some of the following chapters, in the continuation of this iiistMiy of his third and list voyage, to which we shall now proceed. CHAP. X. I^he Resolution and Discovert/, after their departure jrom the Society Isles, prosecute their voijao-c • Christmas Island discovered, where they are supplied jdenlifully with Jish and turtle ; A Sulnr Eclipse observed; Two mariners lose their way on shore; A singular method o/re/h'shiv:^ LiinsUj practiced by one of the stragglers ; An inscription left in a bottle ; A description oj ('hrishiius Jsiuud- Three Islands described ; Others discovered ; Their names ; The tcho/e group dcnomi ua led Staid. wich Islands ; A complete account of their soil, productions, inhabitants, djc. Customs of ihc ndiitm agree with those of Tongataboo and Otaheite • Extent of this nation throughout the Pacifie Onun ; and remarks on the usefd situation of Sandwich Islands ; The Resolution and Discorcri/ jiroccai lo the northward ; Nautical observations made at Sandwich Islands ; Progess of (he voi/'aie ; Ar- rival of the itvo ships on the coast of America j Description of tlie country ,* Di^cullus of Capt Poulweather ; Stormy , and unfavourable tvinds ; Strictures on Martin d' Aiiuilars River and fal- lacy of Juan de Fuca s pretended strait ; The Resolution and Discovery anchor in an inlet in ILnie Jiay, where they are visited by numbers of the natives ; An account of their be/taviour ; Tfie two ships enter the sound, and moor in a commodious harbour ; Various incidents and transactions duriii'r our intercourse tvilh the natives ; Their behaviour at their villages, while we made a proIIIV.II 1^ ^ V....»..^. after day-break, we descried land, bearing leading into it, but fit only for boats ; the N. E. by E. We perceived upon a nearer water in the lagoon itself is likewise very approach, it was one of those low Islands, shallow. In the n^orniugof the 26th, Capt. so frt^quently met with in this ocean between Gierke was ordered to send out a boat, the tropics ; tJiat is, a narrow bank of land, with an otncer, to the south-east part of the inclosing a sea or lake within. Id two or lagoon, in quest of turtle ; and Capt. Cook three places we saw some cocoa-nu i trees ; but the land in general has a very sterile aspect. It extended, at noon from N. E. by E. to S. by E. half E. and distant about four miles. On the western side we found ilr some of from each ship, to examine more accurately the officers of the Discovery, who had been whether it was practicable to land ; and, at ashore to the southward of the channel lead- tlie same time, two others were ordered out, ing into the lagoon, had more success, and to fish at a grappling near the shore. These caught many. The next morning, being last returned about eight o'clock, A. M. Saturday, the 26th, the cutter and pinnace with as many fish as weighed upwards of were dispatched under the command of Mr. two hundred weight. Encouraged by this King, to the south-east part of the Isbuid, success, they were dispatched again after breakfast, and the Captain himself went in nnother boat to view the coast, and attempt landing, which, however he found to be im- practicable. The two boats that had been sent on the same search, returned about within the lagoon, to catcli turtle; anil at the same time the small cutter was sent towards th«^ north for the same purpose. Some of Captain Clerke's people having been on shore all night, had been so fortu- nate as to turn upwards of forty turtles on noon ; and the master belonging to the Re- the sand, which were this day brought on solution, reported to Capt. Cook, that about board ; and, in the course of the afternoon, fotir or five miles to the northward, he had the party detached to the northward return- discovered a break in the land, and a chan- ed with half a <'ozen, and being sent back nel into a lagoon, consequently there was a again, continued there till v.e quitted the proper place for landing ; and that he had Island, having, upon the whole. i>reuy eood found otf this entrance the same soundings success. Sunday, the 2Htlj, Ciqit. Cook, , -IIH !i".''l 11- I I I f \. '1. ,- f ^h^' I- (J06 VOYAGE TOWAKDS THE NORTH POLE, accompanied by Mr. Bailey, landed on the Island situate i»etween the two channels into the laffoon, to prepare the telescopes for observing the solar eclipse that was expec?t- ed to be visible on the 30th. Towards noon, Mr. King returned with one boat, and eij.'-ht turtles ; seven were left behind to be brought by the other boat, whose people were em- ployed in catching more ; and in the even- ing the same boat conveyed them provisions and water. The next day the two boats, laden with turtles, were sent back to the ship by Williamson, who, at the same time, in a message to Capt. Cook, requested, that the boats might be ordered round by sea, as he had discovered a laixling place on the south-east side of the Island, where the greatest number of turtle were caiight; so Ihat, by dispatciiing 'oats thither, the trou- ble of carrying them over the land, as we had hitherto done, to the inside of the lagoon, would be saved, Tuesday the 30th, two gentlemen belong- ing to the Discovery returned, who, accom- panied by Simon Woodroti^", the gunner's mate, and ten seamen, hah they had fruitlessly expend- ed during the night in making signals of distress, and ruirniaged their cases to mus- ter up a single charge. This in some mea- sure, had the desired effect. The report was heard by one of the seamen who were in Sursuit of them (as will be seen hereafter,) oth of whom had been struggling with equal difficulties, and toiling under greater incumbrances, without the least prospect of succeeding in their search. These men were now bewildered tiiemselves, and hal- looed to each other, as well for the sake carried aliout them. 'J'hat scheme therefore appeared too romantic. They next thought of climbing the highest tree, to try if they could discover any hill or eminence, from whence they might take a view of the country, in order to be certain whether it was inhabited or not. This was approved by both, and Trecher mounted the loftiest tree within his reach, from whence, he said, he could discern, towards theS. W. a mountain of considerable height, and as that was the point that led t(. tiie ships, thither he proposed that they should go ; but Loreman rather chose to de|tend upon Providence, and endeavour to regain the shore, as he judged by arepori of a gnn, which he thought lie heard the day before, that it must lie in the direction from whence the sound proceeded, and thither he was endeavouring to make his way, till his eye- sight failed him, and he lost all sense of ac- tion. His companion, hu said, who was at some distance farther in the thicket, and who did not hear the report of the gun, did not believe what he said ; whereupon they agreed to part. What course rrecher to(di, he could not tell, but he believed to the S. W. Loreman was judged in too dangerous a way to admit of any delay : he was there- fore sent otf in a boat, and being put under the care of the surgeon, soon recovered. After this detail it was debated, \\hether to resign Trecher to his fate, or to continue the search. The humanity of the ofliirer who had the command of the party prevail- ed. In consequence of this, the whole party, in the morning, about ten o'clock, after tak- ing some refreshment, set out to scour the thickets, and, by hallooing, beating of druni!-> and pursuing different courses, determint^ ;■ ; [:,.: |:>:i I IV ..>, •Ktt:'tl G\0 VOYAG'i: TO\VAIU)S THE NORTH POJ.E, he slioiiltl hear tljem if he were alive. It was no easy task to penetrate a trackless rover, overgrown with underwodd, and ahuiitidin!;' with insects, ot" which the nnis- qnitoes were the least tronblesoine. But luiinhers make that easy, which, to indivi^ duals would be impracticable. They went on (.heerlully at first ; but before a few hours were elapsed, even the gentlemen, who were inspirited by their success in killin,i»- game, began to be tired, arul it was thouuht advi- .seable to rest and refresli theni^eives during the intense mid-day heat, and to renew the {)ur.>uit after they had dined. As yet they lad not been able to discover any trace or track of the man they were pursuing, thnugli it jjad been agreed between Trechcr and liis rom|)anion, to cut l)oughs from the tresis, as they ()assed along, by way of nnuk or guide to each other, in case of separation. This was no small discouragement ; and few had any relish to renew a lab«»ur attend- ed with so much fatigue, and so little pros- {)ect of success. The officers alone were )ent on the pursuit. The men, though they were no less willing, were not erpially able to endure the fatigue, and some of them ■were even ready to drop, before their dmner and grog had revived their spirits. The only expedient, that now remained to be tried, was, ihat which Trecher had hit upon, namely, to climb the highest tree that ap- jjeared in view, in order to look for the mountain, to which it was thought probable that he might direct his course. This was iH) sooner proposed than executed, and the iiigli land seemed at no great distance from the place where the party had dined. It was now agreed to make the best of their way to the eminence, but this proved not so easy a task as it at first appeared to be. When they thought themselves just ready to mount, they met with a lagoon, that in- terrupted their progress ; and coasting it along, they discovered the skeleton of a creature that, by its length, appeared to be an alligator. In viewing this narrowly, something like the track of a large animal was observed to have passed it, and the higii Ij^rass on the n^argin of the lagoon to have been fresh trodden. This excited the curio- sity of the whole party, who imagined that some monster inhabited the lagoon, agair.sl which it was prudent for them to be on their guard. The waters of the lagoon were salt as brine, and every where skirted with a kind of reed and sedge, that reached as high as a man's head, and could not be penetrat- ed without danger from scorpions, or other venomous reptiles, several of which had been seen in the bushes. All attemi>ts there- fore of sncceeiling by this course appeared to be laliour lost, and as no other were thouglit 'riore probable, it was resolveii (o re]in({uish the pursuit, and to return to the boats ; but the day being already too far spent to make their return practicable be- fore the morning, it was agreed to coast it along the lake, to endeavour to find accesr* to the opposite hills ; and this was the more easily effected, as between the sedgy hordei and the thicket, there was an open space of unequal breadth, only somet'ims inier- secled with patches of brambles that joined the lake, it of no great extent. 'J liro;!:;!! these they iiiade their way with littie oppo- sition till the lake appeared to deepen, iiud a most stubborn woody copse seemeil to biti defiance to their further progress. This difiicuity, however, was with much lahom surmounted, and it was no sooner piissed, than the lake was found to terminate, ami the ground to rise. The country now be- {pan to put on a new face. The pro:«pect which had hitherto presented nothing l)tit a wild and almost impenetrable thicket, as they ascended the rising ground, became delightful ; and when they had attained the tnmmit of the eminence, was exceed inii;!y picturesque. Here they determined to pass the night within a pleasant grove, whidi seemed to be designed by nature for a niare of rest. The whole party now asseninh^d, and orders were given by the commandiiig officers to erect temporary tents to shelter them from the evening damps. Tlu>e tents were only boughs and leaves of trcti set up tent fashion. In this service some were employed in cutting down and |)repar- ing materials, while others were liiisied in disposing and putting them together: some were ordered to collect fuelj and others l« AND UOUND THE WORLD. nil II, iUi'i to hill Tim laltom' passed, te, uml ow be- ro^pecl s; l)iit a ket, as became neil the ediugly to iiass N\ liii'h a iilaoe jandiiii; slieUer Tli(i.>e if treei |)repai> hsied in |r: mollis blhers U carry it to an adjoininsf liill, in order to be Uindled at the close of day, and kept burn- ing during the night, by way of sis^nal, to let the boats know that the party were safe, and that they had not yet relinquished the search. Add to these orders, that a sentinel was to attend the tire in the nif^ht, and a watch to be regularly set, and relieved, to uiiard the tents. In the mean time, the jjeiiliemen amused theiiiselves by taking' a view of the lai^oon from the hills, and ob- servini? its extent. It is bounded on three sides by a ridge of hills, anil open only to tlje N. \V. from which quarter they had ap- l»rciched it. They also observed an opeu (I nvu to trend towards the shore, by which the low grounds were divided, and hence they concluded, that their return would be much shortened. Before night set in, the tents were comjdeted, and the orders that liad been given were carried punctually into execution ; the tire was lighted ; the senti- nel at his station ; the watch set ; and the party all retired to rest. About midniiiht the sentinel, who attended the fire, was sur- prized by a four-footed ujonsler, that had stole upon him with a slow and solemn pace, and was just ready to seize him, when he started suddenly from it, and 'tlcw down to the tents to apprfze the watch. The officer on duty waspresently made acquainted with- the impending- danger, who immediately called to their assistance the serjeant of ma- rines, the second mate, and the armourer, the stoutest men of tiie party. With this reinforcement they marched up tlie hill in form, Mr. Uollingsby anil Mr. Dixon in front, the serjeant and the sentinel in the next line, and two sailors in the rear. As Ihey approached the tire, the sentinel, pee|> ing from behind the armourer, beheld the monster through the smoke, as tall a!j;ain as lie appeared before, and desired the front line to kneel and tire ; but the. armourer, fearing neither devil nor monster, determin- ed to face the enemy. Me therefore advanc- ed boldly, and looking sharply, took the monster 'tbr a man, and called to him to epeuU, in the usual phrase of a seaman. But what was their astonishment, when they be- btlii the very identical Thomas Trecher, 3 of whom they had been in searrh so long, crawling upon all fonrs, lor l>i:> r«''it were so blistered that he could not futand, and his throat so parched that he coidd not s|)eak. It is hard to say which was predoiiiMinnt, their surprize or joy. No time, howt v»r, was lost in administering rebel'. Sotn«j i.in to the tents to tell the news> and to bring some refreshment, while the rest strove to ease him, by supporting him in their orms. In a few minutes, he was surrounded by the whole party, some eager to lie;n- his story, and all U> give him relief '1 lie otlict is brought him conlials, which they adminis- terel sparingly rill he was broiiirht to hiii s|)eecb. lie was a most aHectiim s}*ertacle, blistered from head to foot by poisonous in- sects, whose veuMinous stings had caused snch an intolerable itching, that hia very blood was inflamed by constant rubbing. By anointing him with oil, the acrimony in same degree abated, and by frequently giv- ing him small quantities oV tea mixed with a little brandy, they brought him to hia speech ; but it was some days before he re- covered the perfect nse of his seniles. As soon as they had recovered him so far, by proper retVeshments, as to entertain hopes of saving I;is life, they carried him to bed, and ordered one of his mess-mates to attend him. In the morning his fever was abated ; but there arose a difficulty, how he was to be conveyed more than twelve nrnles, through a country, such as has been described, in his weak condition. To English sailors nothing that is not impossible, is impracti- c;d)le. One of them remembered, that when he was a bov, his school-fellows nsed to di- vert themselves with making sedan chairs of rushes, and he thought it an ea.sy matter to fVujue such a one from the materials in the thicket, that would answer the purpose. This was no sooner proposed than executedr and a machine contrived, in which thejr took it by turns to carry him through al- most insurmountable obstructions. Tlie gentlemen, had indeed, discovered a less encumbered passage than that, through which they had made their way th- day Ge- fore ; but it reached very little farther than they could see with the naked eye ; ail tht 61 tf VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, i <' low efroHpd beyond was swampy and reedy, and abou uiingr with insects of various kinds. In the evening, inexpressibly fatigued, they reached the beach, where the Discovery's cutter was grounded, and where likewise the Kesohjtion's boat, that had been waiting all the day before on the opposite side of the peninsniii, was arrived. Atler some slight refreshment, eaoh party repaired to their own ship ; and Trecher, being com- mitted to the surgeon's care, recovered gra- dually, but it was some weeks before he was fit to do duty. Considering what strange people the generality of sailors are while on shore, we might, instead of being much sur- prized, that the two seamen should lose their way, rather wonder that no more of them were missing. This day, (Tuesday, the 30th) Capt. Cook, and Messrs. King and Huiley, repaired in the morning to the sirmll Island, to observe the eclipse of the sun. The sky was over- cast at times ; but it was clear when the eclipse ended. Having some yams and co- coa-nuts on board, in a state of vegetation, we planted them on this spot, and some seeds of melons were sown in another place. Tiie Captain also left on this lillle Isle a bottle, having this inscription Georgius Tertius, 31 DccembrhyMll. *,. S Jiesolution, Jac. Cook, Pr ^\av€s^ X)iscovery, Car. Gierke, Pr. On Thursday the 1st of January, 1778, our boats were sent o\\\. to bring on board our «iitrerent parties employed on shore, who, in the course of a week, had taken more than a hundred turtle, from one hun- dred and fifty to three hundr of fresh water, we met with stveral salt ponds, which, as they liad no coimiui.. nication with the sea, were prol)a))ly filied by the water filtrating through the sain! dining the time of high tides. One of ihe men who lost their way found some salt on the south-eastern part of the Island. We could not discover the smallest traces of any human creature having ever been liere belbre us ; and, indeed should any one lio accidentally driven on the Island, or led there, he would hardly be able to proloiii; his existence: for though there are birds anrl fish in abundance, there are no visible means of allaying thirst, nor any vegetnhle that would serve as a substitute for bread, or correct the bad effects of animal diet. On the \'g\v cocoa-nut trees upon the Is!;in{l| we found very little fruit, and that lilt!.' not good. A few low trees were observeil in some parts, besides several small slinils and plants, which ffrew in a very lanmiid manner. We found a sort of pnrslaiii, ;i species of sida, or Indian mallow, and aiio^ ther plant that seemed, from its leaves, to be a me sembrianthemum ; with two soils of grass. Under the low trees sat va^t mini- bers of a new species of tern, or egg-bird, black above, and white below, haviufr i white arch on the forehead. TJiese birii AND ROUND THE WORLD. Gl'ii are somewhat larger tlian the common ragine degree, as no ntan on hoard liad noddy; their et?i;s are hlut'jsli, and speckled ever known the like. Fortunately, it was ^villi black. Tliere were likewise many but of short continuance ^ bnt in that little common boobies r, a sort greatly resembling time, the sea broke over <)ur cinsirter, and a fl:annet ; and u chocolate-coloured species, cleared the decks of every thing that was with a white belly. Men-of-war birds, loose. After this we had a penile breeze curlews, plovers, and'tropic birds, are to be at E. and E. S. E. which continued till we found here. We saw numbers of land-crabs, arrived in the latitude of 7 deg. ^'j min. N. small lizards, and several rats smaller than and in 205 deg. east longitude, where we oius. This Island is sujiposed by Capt. had one day of perfect calm. A N. E. by Cook to b(* between fifteen and twenty E. wind then succeeded, which blew faintly leagues in circuil. Its form is semicircular ; at first, but freshened as we firoceeded north' or like tlie moon in her dast quarter, the ward. We dail' observed tropic birds, two horns being the north and south points, boobies, &c. and between the latitude of 10 The west side, or the small Island situate and 11 deg. N. we saw several turtles. at the entrance into the lagoon, lies in 202 Though all these are considered as signs oi deg. 30 mm. east loiigiiude, and in the lati- the proximity of land, we discovered non« tiirle of I deg. 59 niiii. north. Like most of till early in the morning of Sunday, th« tjie other Isles in this ocean, Christmas Is- I8tb, when an Islan(' appeared bearing N. laud is surrounded by u reef of coral rock, E. by E. Not long after more land was extending but a little way from the shore ; seen, which bore N. and was totally detach-> and (urlher out than this reef, on the wes- ed from the former. At noon, the first wa» tern side, is a bank of sand, which extends supposed to be eight or nine leagues dis-. a mile into the sea. There is good anchor- taut. Our longitude at this time, was 200 age on this bank, in any depth between eichfeen and thirty fathoms. During our continuance here, the wind generally blew a fresh gale at E. by S. E. and we had con- de\y. 41 min. K. and our latitude 21 deg. 12 min. N. The next day, at sun-fise, the Island first seen bore E. distant seven leagues. Not being able to reach, this, w« stantly a great swell from the northward, shaped our course for the other ; aiul sooii which broke on the reef in a very violent after, observed a third Island, bearing W. manner. N. W. Friday, the 2nout a mile and a half from the shore. The janoes left us when we made sail ; but others came off, as we proceeded along the coast, and brought with them pigs and some excellent potatoes, which they exchanged for whatever we offered to them ; and seve- ral small pigs were purchased by us for a Kix-penny nail each. We passed divers vil- lages: some of which were situated near the sea, and others further up the country. The inhabitants of all of them came in crowds to the shore, and assembled on the elevated places to take a view of the ships. On this Hide of the Island the land rises in a gentle acclivity from the sea to the bottom of the mountains, which occupy the central part of {he country, ixcept at one place near the tastcrr end, there they rise immediately from the sea : they seemed to be comj)osed (i of stone, or rocks lying in an horizor.fal strata. We observed a tew trees about fhe villages ; near which we could also discern several plantations of sugar-canes and plan- tains. We continued to sound, but did not strike ground with a line of fifty fathoius till we came abreast of a low point, near the N. W. extremity of the Island, where we found from twelve to fourteen fatlioins over a rocky bottom. Having p;>sse.'ith any of our commodities, ex- cept iron. This metal, however, they had in all probability only lieard of, or had per- fcaps known it in some inconsiderable qnan. tity, brought to them at a remote period. They asked for it by the appellation of ha-! maite, referring probablj^ to some instru- ment, in making whieh iron could be ser- viceably employed ; for they applied tlat name to the blade of a knife, though thty ha(l no idea of that particular instrnirienr, which they could not even handle |;n»|)erlv'. The> also frequently called iron by the name of toe, which signifies a hatchet, or adze. On our sliewing them some beads they first asked what they were ; and theii whether they were to be eaten. Pnt on their being informed, that they were to he hung in their ears, they rejected th^i: as useless. They were equally indifler nt tvilh regard to a looking-glass that we oiiered them, and returned it for a similar ipa-vn. China cups, plates of earthen wait lod AND ROUND THE WORLD. 015 ut Ve itli na- orne on we were ly oilier islieU as . Tlieir one ob- of tlieir lieir per- ry tiling d to us, nt time, been ac- ties, ex- liey had »ad jier- ile quail- i period. II of lia- iiistru- be ser- iied tiat igli they truineiit, other tliing^s o-f tl»st kind, were so new to iheia, tha> they asked whether they were made <>t wood. They were in many respects naMirailv pdite ; or, ut least, cautious of givin;:' otf'enoe. Some of them just before they veiitured aboard, repeated a long prayer; and others, afterwarfls sane:, and made va- rious motions with llieir hands. On their first eoteriiifv the ship, they attemptehieh others of the assembly j;)iiied 8 occasionally. The Captain signified his ac- ceptrmce of their proffered friendship, by bestowing on them, in return, such presents as he had brought ashore. This introduc- tory business being ended, he stationed a guard upon the beach, and was then cor;. ducted by some of the natives to the water, which was extremely good, and so consider- able a collection, that it might be dennmi-. nated a lake. After this, he returned on board, and gave orders, that preparations should be made for filling our water casks in the morning, at which time we went ashore w ith some of our people, having a I»arty of marines for our guard. We had no sooner, landed, tlian a trade was entered into for potatoes and hogs, which the Islan- ders bartered for nails and piec« s of iron. Ear from giving any obstruction to our men, who were occupied in watering, tliey even assiste«l them in rolling the casks to and from the pool, and performed with alacrity whatever was required of thein. Leaving the command of this station to Mr. AVilliamson, who landed with us, we made an excursion up the country, into the valley, arconif)anied by Messrs. Anderson and Webber, and by a numerous train of natives, one of whom, v ho had been very active in keeping the others in order, the Captain made choice of as our guide. This maij, from time to time, proclaiming theapproaoli oV our gentlemen, every person who met them fell i)rostrate on the ground, and re- mained in that position till we had passed. This, as we were afterwards informed, is the method of shewing respect to their o\>!i chiefs. At every village, as the ships ran;,^- ed along the coast, we had descried one or more elevated white objects, reseniblin? obelisks ; one of which, suppo.«ed to l»e nt least fifty feet high, was very conspiv uor.s from our anchoring place, and seemed to be at a small distance up this valley. '1 < love a nearer view of it was the principal motive of our walk ; but it happened to be in sucii a situation that we could not get at if, the pool of water separating it from us. How- ever, as there was another of the same kin Mr. we made he valley, ;rson and of natives, active in Captain his mah, approach who met and re- ,d passed. ,ed, is tlie their on>!i lips rang- ieri one ov fsenildiiifl; to !i(' at inspi> uor.s n»evlii(h was an exact model of the larger one this was the grave of seven chiefs, and was ue had seen from the ships. It was about called heneene. We had already met with twenty feet in height, and four feet square so many instances of resemblance, between at the base. Its four sides were formed of the morai we were now visiting, and those small poles, interwoven with twigs and of the Islands we had lately visited, that branches, thus compos ng an indifferent we entertained little doubt in our own minds wicker-work, hollow within, from the top of the similarity in their rites, and particn- to the bottom. It appeared to be in a ruin- larly in the horrid oblation of human sacri- ous state, and had been originally covered fices. Our suspicions were soon confirmed ; with a thin greyish cl.)th. On each side of tor on one side of the entrance into the he- it were long pieces of wicker-work, termed manaa we observed a small square phice, liereanee, in a condition equally ruinous, and another still smaller; and on askinj^ with two poles inclining towards each other what these were, we were informed by our at one corner, on which some plantains conductor, that in one of them was interred were placed on a board, fixed at the height a man, and in the other a hog, both which of about six feet. This the Islanders call had been offered up to the deity. At no lierairemy, and they said the fruit was offer- great distance from thc^se were three other ed to their deity. Before the henananoo square inclosed places, with tw«> pitces of were several pieces of wood, carved in sotnie carved wood at each of them, and a heap of resemblance of human figures. There ws»s fern upon them. These were the graves of also a stone near two fieet in height, covered three chiefs, and before them was an inclos- with cloth. Adjoining to this, on the out- ed space of an oblong figure, called Tanga- side of the inofai, was a small shed, which tataboo, by our guide,\vho declared to us, tliey call hareenahoo ; and before it was a that three human sacrifices, one at the fu- {jrave, where the remains of a woman had neral of eacu chief, had been buried there, been deposited. On the further side of the Indeed, every appearance induced us to be- jtrea of the morai was a house, or shed, lieve, that this inhuman practice was very called hemanaa, about forty feet in length, general. In many spots within this bniy- teii in breadth, but narrower at each end : ing-ground, were planted trees of the mo- tliough considerably longer, it was lower rinda eitrifolia, and cordia sebastina, be- liian their common habitations. Opposite sides several plants of the Etee, with the tlie entrance into this house stood two ima- leaves of which the hemanaa was thatched. ges, near three feet high, cut out of one Our journey to and from this morai, lay piece of wood, with pedestals: they were through the plantations. VTe observed said to be Eatooa no Veheina, or representa- most of the ground was perfectly flat, with lions of goddesses, and were not very iiidif- ditches intersecting ditferent parts, and I I lit either in design or execution On the roads that seemed to have been raised to li«(idofone of them was a cylindrical cap, some height by art. The intervening spa- not unlikt the head-dress at Otaheite, called ces. in general, were planted with taro, lou'ou ; and on that of the other, a carved which grew with great vigour. There were liehnot, somewhat re.sembling those of the several spots where the cloth mulberry was mtwnt vvarriois, and both of them had planted, in rc^^..',ar rows; this also grew 4K f:^i . f 619 VOYAGE TOiVAHDS THE NORTH POLE, :,i:-t,'Ti i) ;,:"' m\r \ vigGi'onsly. The co«oa-tre«s were in a less thr ving condition, and were all Jew ; but the plantain*trees itn^ae a pretty good ap- pearance. Upon the whole, the trees that are most numerons around this village, are the cordia sebastina. The jrreatest part of the villa-^^e is near the beach, and consists of upwards of sixty honsf s there, and we «aw near forty more scattered about towards the morai. After we had carefidly examin- ed v/hatever was worthy of notice about the moral, we returned by a different rout. We found a multitude collected at th« beach, and a brisk trade for fowls, pigs, and veg'e- tables, going on, with the greatest order and decorum : at noon Capt. Cook went on board to dinner, afid then sent Mr. King to take the command of the party oii shore. During the afternoon hte landed again, ac- companied by Capt. Gierke, intending to make another excursion up the oeuntry ; bnt before he«Culd execute this design the day was too far spent ; he therefore reliti- quished his intention for the pj^sent, and no opportunity afterwards occurred. Towards sun-set, the Captain and our peo- ple returned on board, after having procur- ed, in the course of this day, nine twis ot water, and (principally by exchanging nails, and pieces of iron) seventy pigs, some fowls, plantains, potatoes, and taro roots. In tMs commercial intercourse, the Islanders de- served our best commendations, making no attempts to cheat us, either along side our ships, or oti shore. Some of them, indeed, AS we have already related, betrayed at first a pilfering disposition, or perhaps, they imagined that they had a right to all they could lay their hands on ; but they quickly desisted from a conduct, which we convinc- ed them, could not be persevered in with im- punity. Among the various articles -j^'hich they brought to barter this day, we were particularly pleased with a sort of cloak and ^ap, which, even in more polished coun- tries, might be esteemed elegant. These cloaks are nearly of the shape and size of the short ones worn Ijy the men in Spain, and by the women in Lng'Iand, tied loosely before, and reaching to the middle of the back. J'he ground of them is a net work, with the most beautiful red and yellow fe;,. thers so closely lived upon it, that the surface both in poin', of smoothness and glossness' resembles th'.' richest velvet. The methods of varying the mixture are very different some oc thtm having triangular spaces ©f yellow and red altexnately ; others a sort of crescent ; while some were entirely red, ex- cept that they had a broad yellow border" The brilliant colour of the feathers, in those cloaks mat were new, had a very fine effect The natives, at first, refused to part with one of these cloaks for any thing we ofliied in exchange, demanding no less price than one of our muskets. They afterwards, how- ever, parted with some of them for very large nails. Those of the best sort were scarce; and it is probable, that they are used only on particular occasions. The caps are made in the form of a helmet, with the middle part or crest, frequently of a hand's breadth. They sit very close upon the head, and have notches io admit the ears. I'hey consist of twigs and osiers, co- vered with net-v/ork, into which feathers are wrought, as upon the cloaks, but some- what closer, and less diversified ; the ni:ijor part being red w th some yellow, greei),' or pliidi stripes, on the sides. These caps', in Mi probability, complete the dress, with the cloaks ; for the Islanders appeared some- times in both together. We could not con- jecture from whence they obtained such a quantity of these beautiful feathers; but we soon procured intelligence respecting one sort ; for they afterwards brought for >;ale great numbers of skins of a siriall red spe- cies of birds, frequently tied up in hunc les of twenty or upwards, or having a woo( en skewer run through them. At first, those that were purchased consisted only of the skin from behind the wings forwuld ; hut we afterwards obtained many witlj tiie hiiul part, including the feet and tail. The former instantly suggested to us the origin of the fable of the birds of paradise heir destitute of legs, and .-sufficiently explained that particular. The reason assigned in the inhabitants of Atooi for tlie custom ' t" cutting ofV the fe( t of these birds, is, tliot by tliis practipe they can preserve lliein the AND ROUND THE WOULD. o\y t '■ I-' I' '■' ■■ II more easily, without losing any part which tliey consider as more vuliiahle, Accordinjf to Mr. Anderson, the red bird of this Isiund is fi s|»ecies of inerops, ubout as large as a sparrow ; its colon (• a beantiCul scarlet, witli the tails and wings black ; a bill arched, '^iid twice as long as the head, which, with tlifei feet, is of a reddish line. The uontenis of t'iie heads were taken out, as in the birds of paradise ; but we did not tind that they practiced any other mode of preserving them, than that of simple drying. On Thursday the 22nd, we had almost continual rain tor the whole morning. The wind was at 8. E. 8. 8. E. and 8. and the surf broke so high upon the shore, that our boats were prevented from landing. We were not in a very secure situation, there being breakers within the length of little more than two cables from the Resolution's stern. The natives, notwithstanding the sorf, ventured out in their canoes, bringing otf to us hogs and vegetables, which they exchanged, as before, for our commodities. One ot their number, who otiered some fisli-hooks for sale, was observed to have a very small parcel, fastened to the string of one of them, which he carefully separated, and reserved for himself, when he had dis- posed of the hook. Upon being asked what it was, he pointed to his belly ; saying, at ilie same time, it was bad. He was request- ed to^open the parcel, which he did with great reluctance, and we tbund that it contained a small thin piece of flesh, which had, to all appearance, been dried, but was at pre- sent wet with salt water. Imagining that it might be human flesh, we put the ques- tion to the producer of it, wlio answered, lliat the flesh was part of a man. Another of th^ Islanders who stood near him was 'lien asked, whether it was a custom among ihem to eat their enemies who had been slain in battle ; and he immediately replied in the affirmative. In the afternoon we had some intervals of fair weather. The wind then changed to the £. and N. E. but, towards the evening, it veered back again to S. 8. E. The ryin also returning, con- tinued the whole night, but was not attend- ed with much wind. On the 23rd, at seven a o'clock A. M. a north-easterly breeze spring, ina: u|), our anchors were ordered to be taken up, with a view of removing the Resolution further out. As soon as the last aucljor was n|>, the wind veering to the east, rendered" it necessary to mak • all the sail we could» for tlie |)ur|>ose o ' 'blearing the shore ; so (hat before we had w jd sea-room, we were driven considerid',, to leeward. We endea- voured to regiii I the road, but having a strong current against us, and very little wind, we could not accomplish that design. OurCoinniodr ethereforcidispatched Messrs. King and W 'lianison ashore, with three boats, to prrcure water and refreshments, sending at tl «• same time, an order to Capt. Clerke, t. ', ^ to sea after him, if he should find that the Resolution was unable to reco- ver the road. Having hopes of finding nerhaps a harbour, at the west end of the Island, we were the less anxious of regain- ing our former station; but boats having been sent thither, we kept as much as possi^ ble to windward, notwithstanding which, at noon, our ship was throe leagues to leeward. As we approached the west end, we found that the coast jounded gradually, to the N. E. without' forming a cove, or creek, wherein a vessel might be sheltered from the violence of the swell, which rolling in from the northward, broke against the shore in an amazing surf: all hopes, therefore, of meet- ing with a harbour here soon vanished. Many of the natives, in their canoes, followed us as we stood out to sea, bartering various ar- ticles. As we were extremely unwilling, notwithstanding the suspicious circnmstan- ees of the preceding day, to believe that these people were cannibals, we now made some further enquiries on this subject. A small instrument of wood, beset with shark's teeth, had been purchased, which, as it re- sembled the saw or knife made use of by the savages of New Zealand, to dissect the bodies of their enemies, was suspected by us to be employed here for the same purpose. One of the Islanders being questioned on this point, informed us, that the instrument above mentioned served the puruose of cut- ting out the fleshy part of the nelly, when an.v person was slain. This explained and "m '!' \ 1 1 ?«iii^ lit a G20 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, ranfiimed tlie circumstance before related, Discovery. We remained several days beat oi' the man's pointing to his belly. The ing up, but in vain, to regain our former native, however, from whom we now receiv- birth ; and by the morning of Thursday ei\ this intelligence, being usked whether the 29th, the currents had carried us to th« liis countrymen eat the part thus cut out, westward, within nine miles of Oneeheow strongly denied it ; but when tlje question Weary with plying so unsuccesshdly, ^ve was repeated, he shewed some degree of laid aside all tlioughts of returning to Atooi apprehension, and swam otF to his canoe, and resumed our intention of paying a visit An elderly man, who sat foremost in the to Oneeheow. With this view the master canoe, was then asked whether they eat was dispatched in a boat to sound along the the flesh, and he answered in the alHrma- coast, and search for a landing place, and tive. The question being i)ut to him a afterwards fresh water. In the mean time second time, he again affirmed the fact; the ships followed under an easy sail. Tlje adding that it was savoury food. In the master, at his return reported, that there evening, about seven o'clock, the imats re- vvas tolerable anchorage all along the coast turned with a few hogs, some roots, plan- and that he had landed in one place, but tains, and two tons of water. Mr. King could not find any fresh water: but bein" reported to our Commodore, that the Islan- informed by some of the natives, who had ders were very numerous at the watering come off to the ships, that fresh water niight place, and had bronglit great numbers of he obtained at a village in sight, we r;ui hogs to barter; but our people had not down and cast anchor before it, about six commodities with them suthcient to pur- furlongs from the shore, the depth of water chase them all. He also mentioned, tliat being twenty-six fathoms. The Discovery the surf had run so very high, that it was anchored at a greater distance from tlie with extreme difficulty our men landed, shore, in twenty-three fathoms. The soutli- and afterwards got back into the boats. eastern point of Oneeheow bore south Go ()n Saturday, the 24th, at day-break, we deg. E. about one league distant; and ano- found that our ship had been carried by ther Island which we had discovered the the currents to the N. W. and N. so that preceding night, named Tahoora, bore S. t!>e ivestern extremity of Atooi, bore E. at 61 deg;. W distant seven leagues. \hc distance of one league. A northerly Before we anchored, several canoes had breeze sprung up soon after, and, expecting come off to us, bringing potatoes, yams that this would bring the Discovery to sea, small pigs, and mats, 'i'he people tesein- we steeretain's intention was to have follow- ed soon afterwariU ; and he went from the s'lip \iitl» that design: but the surf had so ■•rently increased by this time, that he was iippr; hensivo, if he got ashore, he should tint he able to make his way back again. This circumstance really hai)pened to our I eople who had landed with Mr. Gore ; for the communication, between them and the s!ii|)S, by our own boats, was quickly stop- ped. They made a signal in the evening, t«r the boats, which were accordingly sent ; and in a short lime afterwards returned with some good salt, and a few yams. A consi- derable quantity of both these articles had been obtained in the course of the day ; but the surf was so exceedingly, high that the greatest part of both had been lost in bring- ing them off to the boats. The officer and twenty men, .not venturing to run the risque of coming otij remained alt night on shore* by which unfortunate circumstance, the very thing happened, which Capt. Cook, as we have already related, so eagerly wished to prevent, and imagined he had guarded effectually against. However, the violence of the surf did not deter the natives from coming off in canoes to our ships. They brought with them some refreshments, for which we gave them in exchange, some nails, and pieces of iron hoops ; and we distributed among the women in the canoes, buttons, bracelets, and many pieces of rib- bon. Some of the men had representations of human figures punctured upon tlieir breasts, and one of them had a lizard repre- sented. These visitants told us no cWwi was over this Island, but that it was subject to one of the chiefs of Atooi, whose name was Teneooneoo. Among other articles which they now brought off to us, was a small drum, that had a great resemblance to those of Otaheite. Between ten and eleven o'clock at night, the wind became southerly, and the sky seemed to indicate an approaciiinu' ■ storm. In consequence of these threatening appearances, orders were given for the anchors to he taken up ; and the ships being carried into forty fathoms water, came to again in a more secure statir)n : yet this proved an unnecessary |)re- caution ; for the wind, not long after, veer- ing to the N. N. E. blew a fresh gale, wi.h squalls, and violent showers of rain. This weather continued for the whole succeeding day, during which, the sea ran so high, that all comnumication with our parly on siiore, was totally intercepted, and the Ish.iulcrs themselves would not venture f)nt to tlia ships in their canoes. Towards the e\ eiiin;:i , the Commodore sent the master in a 'oat to the S. E. point of the Island, to try whe. ther he could land in that nnarter. Ha m ¥tm ': i' fim\ t»l VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, W' 'HU defamed vrith a favourable report ; but it tl'as no«? too late to send for our party, so ^hat they were obliged to stay another night On shore. On Sunday the 1st of February, on the Appearance of day-light, a boat was dis- patched to the S. E. |joint, with orders to jLieutenant Gore, that, if he could not em- bark his people from the spot where they ^t present were, he should march them up to the point. The boat being prevented from getting to the beach, one ot the crew 6wam to the shore, and communicated the instructions. On tlie return of our boat, Cant.^ Cook went himself with the lainich and pinnace up to the point, in order to bring off our party from the land. We there, nor are the inhalHtants less in- genious or civilized. It is worthy of obser- vation, that the Islands in the Pacific Or'^an, which have been discovered in the course of our late voyages, have been gene- rally found situate in groups ; the single intermediate Isles, hitherto met with, being lew in proportion to the rest; though, in all probability, there are many more of them yet unknown, which serve as gradations or steps between the several clusters. Of what nitntber this new-discoveied archipelago is composed, must be left to the decision of future navigators. We observed five of them, whose names are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneelieow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. This last is a small elevated Island, at the dis- tance of four or five kagnes from the S, E. point of Oneeheow. We were 1 old, that it aliomids with birds its iSole inhabitants. We also gained intcllijrence of the existence of a low iniinhabited Island in the neig-hbour- hood, named Tammata-pappa. Besides these six, we were told that there were some other Islands both (o the eastward and westward. I'here seems to be a remarka- ble conformity (observes one of our gentle- men) between these Islands and those of the opposite hemisphere, not only in their situation, but in their number, and in their manners, customs, arts, and manufactures of the inhabitants; yet, it can scarcely be imagined, that they could ever have any communication, as the globe is now consti- tuted, being more than two thousand miles distant one from the other: but frotn this ffeneral conformity among the tropical Is- anders, some have been led to believe, that the whole midiUe region of the earth, was once one entire continent, and that what is now the Great South Pacific Ocean, was, in the beginning, the Paradise of the World. With respect to Woahoo, the most east- erly of these Islands, seen by us, we could get no other information than that it is high land, and inhabited Bnt as to Onee- heow, concerning which some particulars have been already mentioned, this lies seven leagues to the westward of onr anchoring- rdace at Atooi, and does not exceed fifteei* eagues, or forty-five miles, in circumference. Yams are its principal vegetable production. We procured some salt here, called by the natives patai, which is produced in salt ponds. With it they cure both fish and pork ; and some salt fish, which we pur- chased from them were kept very well, and extremely good. This Island i« chiefly low land, except the part opposite Atooi, which rises immediately from the sea to a consi- derable height ; as does also \tn S. E, point, which terminates in a round hill. We know no other particulars concerning Oneeheow : and of Oreelmua we can only say, that it is a small elevated Island, lying close to the north side of Oneeheow. Atooi was the principal scene of our ope- rations, and the largest Island we saw. From our observations, we think it io be at least thirty miles in length from E. to W. from whence its circumference may nearly be de- termined, though it appears to be imiob broader at the E. than at the W. point. 1'he road, or iinchoring- place, which our vcs^sels occupied, is on tli* i^. W. aide of liielslan^l* f| ifti'a J^'f ■M €'■ ■ '».: ^ ^4 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, . » ( about two leagues from the west end, be- fore a village, named Wymoa. As tar as we soiintled, we found the banks free from rocks ; except to the eastward of the village, where there projects a shoal, on which are some rocks and breakers. This road is somewiiat exposed to the trade wind ; not- withstanding which, it is far from being a bad station, and greatly superior to those which necessity continually obliges ships io use, in countries where the winds are not more variable, but more boisterous ; as at Madeira, Teneriffe, the Azores, &c. The landing too, is not so diiiicult as at most of those places ; and, unless in foul weather, is always practicable. The water in the neighbourhood is excellent, and may be conveyed with ease to the boats. But no wood can be cut at any convenient distance, unless the Islanders could be prevailed upon to part with the etooa trees, (for that is the name they give to the cordia sebastina) that prow about their villages, or a specips called dooe dooe, which grows farther up the coun- try. The land does not ia the least resem- ble, in its general appearance, any of the Islands we have visited within the tropic of Capricorn ; if we except its hills near the centre, which are high, I»ut slope gradually towards the sea, or lower lands. Though it presents not to the view the delightful bor- ders ofOtaheite, or the luxuriant plains of Tongataboo, covered with trees, which at once afinrd a shelter from the scorching rajs of the sun, a beautiful prospect to the eye, and food for the natives ; yet its pos- sessing a greater portion of gently rising land, renders it, in some degree, superior to the above-mentioned favourite Islands, as beinar more capable of improvement. The height of the land within, and the clouds which we saw, during the whole time of tiur continuance, hanging over it, and not unfrequently on the other parts, seem to in- dicate that there is a sufficient supply of ivater, and that there are some running streams which we had not an opportunity of seeing, particularly in the deep vallies, at the entrance of \«hicli, the villages are, in gene- ral, situated. The ground, from the woody l^t to Ute sea> is covered with an excellent 8 kind of gr;is'5, aliout two feet in Iiciglif, wlu'eJi SDmetinies grow in tufts, and appeart^l ci, pable of liting converted into abundant crops of fine hay. But on this extensive snace not even a shrub grows naturally. Jp the narrow valley leading to the Moral, tlio soil is of a dark brown colour, rather loose but on the high ground, it is of a redtlisll brown, more stitf and clayey. It is proba- bly the same all over the cultivated parts' for what adhered to most of the potatoes that we purchased, which, doubtless, came from very different spots, was of this sort. Its quality, however, may be better estimat- ed from its productions, than from its ap- pearance : for the vale, or moist ground produces taro, much larger than any we had ever seen ; and the more elevated ground furnishes sweet potatoes, that seldom weijh less than two or three pounds, and frequently weigh ten, and sometimes fourteen pounds. Were we to judge of the climate from our experience, it misht be said to be very varj. able ; for according to the general opinion, it was, at this time, the season of the year when the weather is supposed to be most settled, the sun being at his greatest annual distance. The heat was now very medt- rate; and few of those inconveniences to which many of the countries lying witiijn the tropics are subject, either from heat, or mcnsture, seem to be experienced here. Nor did we (ind any dews of consequence : a circumstance which may partly be account- ed for, by the lower f)art ot the country jje- ing destitute of trees. The rock that con- stitutes the sides of the valley, is a dark grey ponderojis stone ; but honey-combed, wiili some spots of a rusty colour, and some very minute shining particles interspersed. It i? of an immense depth, and seems to be divid* ed into strata, though nothiuu: is interposed for the large pieces always broke off to 9 determinate thickness, and did not appear to have adhered to those that were belo\f them. Other stones arr, in all probability, muci) more various than in the southern Is lands. For during the shgrt time we rf- mained here, besides the lapis lydius, we found a species ofeream-coloured whet-stonr. sometimes variegated with whiter or blacko iii^:m AND HOUND TIIK WOULD. G2.5 vein^ ^i'^e marble; and coniinon writing- f^liile, iis well as soiiio of a coarser sort ; ai'd tlie natives broufflit us some |)ieces of a coarse wlutish pumice stone. We also procured a hrown sort ot liaematiles, which Iroin its he- iimstroiiylyatlracied l>y the mai^uet \^iiat we saw ofthis was cut artilicially, as were ulso the slates and whetstones. Of vegetables, birds, tish, and tame ani- nials, we saw various kinds. Besides the ve- getables purchased by us as retVeslunents, unioni? which were, at least, live or six varie- ties of plantains, the Island produces bread- fruit, and the sugar-cane : the former seems to be scarce, as we only saw one tree of that species; but the latter appears to be indi- genous to thfc::'^ Islands, and rare in those on the other side of the line. There are also liere a few cocoa- palms; some yams; the Uappe of the Friendly Isles, or Virginian aruin ; the elooa tree, and o^'oriferous gar- denia, or Cape Jasmine. We saw several trees of the dooe dooe, that btar the oily lints, which are stuck upon a kind of skewer, iind made use of as candles. They are used in the same manner at Oneeheow. We were not ashore at Atooi except in the day- time, and then we observed the Islanders wearing these uuts, hung on strings, round llieir necks. There is a species of sida, or Indian mallow ; also ibe morinda citrifolia, wiiich is here called none; a species of con- volvulus ; the ava, or intoxicating pepper, besides great quantities of gourds. These last ifrow to a very lar^e size, and are re- markable iitr their variety of shapes, the effect, i>erha|)s, of art. Upon the dry sand, about the village grows a |>Iant, that had never been seen by us in this ocean, of the size of a common thistle, and prickly ; but bearing a fine flower, greatly resembling a wliite poppy. The scarlet birds, brought for sale, were never met with alive; bwt we saw a small one, about the size of a canary bird, of a df -p crimson colour. Y7v also «aw a larg4 owl, two brown hawks, or kites, and awifddncU. We heard from the na- tives the nai; tes nf some other birds ; among which were the otoo, or bluish heron, and liie torata. assort of whimbrel. It is proba- ble that the species of birds are numerous* if ue may judge by the quHiitity of fine yel- low, green, and small velvet-like blackish feathers, used upon the cloaks, and other oriianuMits worn by these people. Fish and other productions of the sea, were, to ap- pearance, not various; for, besides the small inackarel, we only saw conimuix iiiullet*<; a species of aclialUy colour ; a small brown- ish rock-tish, adorned with blue spots ; a turtle, which vvas penned up in a pond : and three or four sorts of tish salted, 'i'lie few shell-fish seen by us, were chiefly con- verted into ornaments, though they wore destitute of the recommendatifui either of beauty or novelty. The only tame or «lo- inestic animals that we found here were hogs, dogs, and fowls, which were all of the same kind that we met with at the Islands of the South Pacific. There are also small lizards ; anearance, few natural deformities of any kind. Their skin is not very soft, nor shi- ning; but their eyes and teeth are, for thf most part, pretty good. Their hair in gene- ral, is straight; and though its natural co- lour is usually black, they stain it, as nt tli« Friendly and other Islands. VVe perceived M iy j^>i ^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. 1.0 I.I |28 ^n^ 1^1^ ■ 2.2 ^ 1^ 12.0 u i 11-25 il.4 ^ /» HiotDgrapMc Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) •72-4503 \ ^ iV ;\ ^ \ <^ i\ '^ ■^ 4r CZ6 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, but few in«5tances of corpnience, and these more fniqneilly amony- tlie women tlian the lut n ; bul if. was principally among ihe latter lliat personal defects were observed ; tl)oirf?h U any of them can lay claim to a share of beauty, it appeared to be most con- spic'uous among the young men. They are acrivi^, viiforous, and most expert swimmers; Jtaviiit; their canoes upon tlie most frivolous occrsioii ; askets to contain various articles ; also a few wooden bowls, and trenchers of various sizes. From what we saw growing, and from what was brought to market, we have no doubt, that sweet potatoes, taro, and plantains, consti^" tute the principal part of their vegetable diet ; and that yams and bread-fruit are ra- ther to be considered as rarities. Of animal food, they appear to be in no want, having great numbers of hogs, which run, without restraint, about the houses ; and, if they eat dogs, which is not improbable, their stock of these seemed very considerable. 1 he Quantities of fishing hooks found among them, indicates that they procure a tolera- ble supply of animal food from the sea. They have a custom of saltinsr fish, and likewise pork, which they preserve in gourd- shells. The salt used for this purpose is of a reddish colour, but not very course, and seems to be nearly the same with what our stragglers found at Christmas Island, Its colour is doubtless derived from a mixture of mud, at the bottom of the place where it is found ; for some of it, which had adhered in lumps, was of a tolerable whiteness. They bake their vegetable articles of food with heated stones ; and, from the great quan- tity which we saw dressed at one time, ue imagined, that all the inhabitants of a vi|. lage, or at least a considerable number of people* joined ia Ibc use of a common oven. I 'I D28 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, We did not perceive them dress any animal food at this Island. The only artificial dish we saw them dress was a laro puddingr, ^vr\ich, tiioMgh very sour, was devoured with avidity by the natives. They edtotFa sort of u'oodeii trenchers ; and, as far as we were eiiJilded to jndge from one instance, the women, if restrained from feeding on the same dish with the men, as is tlie custom at Oiaheite, are at least allowed to t^nt in the same place near them. The amusements of these people are va- rious. We did not see the dances at which they use the feathered cloaks and caps ; but from the motions they made with their bands, on other occasions, when they sung, we judged that they were similar to those we met with at the southern Islands, though not so skilfully performed. They had not amongst them either flutes or reeds, and the only two musical instruments seen by us, were of an exceeding rude kind. One of them does not produce a melody superior to that of a child's rattle. It consists of what may be denominated a conic cap inverted, but very little hollowed at the base, made of a sedge-like plant ; the upper part, of which, and likewise the edges, are embellished with beautiful red feathers; and to the point, or lower part, is fixed a gourd-shell. Into this they put something to rattle, which is done by holding the instrument by the small part, and shaking it briskly before the face, at the same time striking the breast with the other hand. The other instrument was a hollow vessel of wood, not unlike a platter, accompanied with two sticks, whereon one of our gentlemen saw a man performing. He held one of the sticks, about two feet in length, with one hand, in the same manner as we hold a violin, and struck it with the other, which was smaller, and resembled a drum-stick, in a quicker or slower measure, beating with his foot, at the same time, upon the hollow vessel, that \ay upon the ground inverted, and thus producing a tone, that was not disagreeable. This music was aecompanied by the vocal performance of some women, whose song had a pleading eflect. They have great numbers of small polished rods, of the length of between four 4 and five feci, rather thicker than the raip. mcr of a musket, with a tufl of long do^'n hair fixed on the small end. These tliey probably make use of in their diversions. We saw a native take one of them in liji hand, and holding it up, gave a smart stroke, till it was brought into an horizontal posi. tion, striking the ground with his foot, on the same side, and beating his breast with hjs other hand. They play at bowls with f>ieces of the whet-stone, shaped somevvliat ike a cheese, but rosnded at the edges and sides, which are very neatly polished. Tliev have other bowli made of a reddish-hrown clay, glazed over with a composition of tlie saiue colour, or of a dark grey coarse slate. They also use as quoits, small, flat, round- ish pieces of writing slate, scarcely a quar- ter of an inch thick. As to the manufactures of these people, they discover an extraordinary degree of ingenuity and neatness. Their cloth is made from the morus papyrifera. and amang them, and which they possessed before our arrival, were a piece of iron hoop, aboat the length of two inches, fitted into a wooden handle ; and another edge-tool, which we supposed to have been made of the point of a broad sword. Their having the actual possession of these, and their being well acquainted with the use of this metal, inclin- ed some of our people to imagine, that we were not the first European visitors of these Islands. But the very great surprise which they testified on seeing our ships, and their perfect ignorance of the use of lire-arms, cannot be reccmciled with such an opinion. There are several means, by which such people may obtain pieces of iron, oracquire* the knowledge of the existence of that metal, without having had an immediate connec- tion with those nations that use it. We doubt not, that it was unknown to all the inhabitants of the Pacific Ocean, till Magel- lan led the way into it ; for no navigator, immediately after his voyage, found any of this metal in their possessicm ; though, in the course of onr late voyages, it has been remarked, that the use of it was known at several Islands, which no former European vessels had ever, to our knowledge, visited. At all the places where Magellan touched, during his two voyages, some of it must have been left ; and this would, doubtless, extend the knowledge of it to all the vari- ous Islanils, \\ith which the people, whom he visited, had any immediate intercourse. It might even have been carried farther, and' where specimens of this valuable article could not be met with, descriptions might,, in some degree, serve to make it known* afterwards, when seen. The next voyage to the southward of the equator, in which any intercourse was had with the people who inhabit the Islands of this ocean, was that of Quiros, wl • landed at Sagittaria, the Island of handsome people, and at Tierra d^l Espiritu Santo, at all which e laces, as well as at those with which they ad any communication, it must undoubtedly have been made known. To him sucieed- ed, in this navigation, Le Maire, and Sni intermediate Islands, situ- ated between them and the Ladrons, which the Spaniards have frequented almosi ever since the period of Magellan's voyage. Or, if the distant western position of the La- drones, should detract trom the probability e of this solution, is there not the America continent to windward, where the Spaniards have been settled for upwards of two centn- ries and a half, during which long spare of time, shipwrecks must frequently have hiip. pened on its |coasts ? It cannot be deenjed surprising, that part of such wrecks, con- taining iron, should, by the easterly trade winds, be occasionally cast upon some ot those Islands, that are scattered about this immense ocean. The distance of Atooi from America is no argument against this sn|)|)o. sition ; and eveis if it were, it would destroy it. This ocean is annually traversed by Spanish vessels, and it is highly probable that, besides the accident of losing a mast and its ap|)eiidages, casks with iron hoops, and many other things that contain iron, may fall, or be thrown overboard, during so long a passage, and thus find their way to land. These are not mere conjectures, for one of Capt. Cooks's people actual ly saw some wood in a house at Wymoa, which he supposed to be fir: it was worm-eaten, and the natives informed him, that it had been driven ashore by the waves ; and we had their own express authority, that they had obtained, from some place to the eastward, the specimens of iron found among them. From this digression (if it can justly be call- ed one) let us return to the observations maii;;i'(i'ei)U'!3t ; hut it slioulil be consi- dered!, (hat the iiutiveii of Otaheite, t'roiu their iVcquent connections with the English, hutl leurned, in some measure, to adupt themselves to our imperfect knowledge of tlieir luuguuge, by using the most coiiinion and even corrupted expressions in conversa- tioii with us; whereas when they talked with each other, and used the several parts necessary to propriety of speech, they were hardly at all understood by those among us, who had made the greatest progress in the knowledge of their tongue. Had the Sandwich Islands been discover- ed at an early period, by the Spaniards, they^ would doubtless have availed themselves of go excellent a situation, and have made use of Atooi, or some other Islands, as a place of refreshment for the ships that sail an- nually lietween Manilla and Acapulco. They lie almost mid-way between the last mentioned place and Guam, one of the La- drones, which is at present their only port in traversing this vast ocean ; and to touch at them would not be a week's sail out of their ordinary route. An acquaintance with the Sandwich Isles would also have been equally favourable to our Buccaneers, who have soipetimes passed from the coast of America to the Lad rones, with a stock of provisions and water scarcely adequate to the support of life. Here they might always have met with a plentiful supply, and have been within a month's sail of the very part ofCalifornia, which the Manilla ships are obliged to make. How happy woulu Lord Anson have been, and what drtiiculties would he have avoided, had he known that there was a cluster of Islands half way be- tween America and Tinian where all his yiants might have been effectually relieved ! At these Islands, the tides are so inconsi^ derable, that with a great surf bre.aking against the shore, it was difficult, at all times to determine whether we had high or low water, or whether it ebbed or flowed. On the south side of Atooi, a current gene- rally set to the .westward, or uorth-west- ward : but when we wertt at anchor off Onee- heow, we found a current setting neariy N. W. and §• £• six hours each way. This 4M . was doubtless a regular tide, and the flood ap^ieared to come from the N. W. The jongitnde of Sandwich Islands, was determined by seventy-two sets of lunar ol)- servations ; some of whicJi wereniii< e while we were at anchor, in the road of Wy moa; others, before we arrived, and after we had left it, and reduced to it, bv the watch, or time-keeper. By the mean result of the observations, the longitude of the road is 200 deg. 13 mill. E. and the latitude, by the mean of two meridian observations ot the sun 21 deg. 56 niiii. lo sec. N. We now return to the progress of our voyage. On Monday, the 2iid of February, the Discovery having joined us, we stood away to the northward, with a gentle gale froni the E. On the 7th, we were in the latitude of 29 deg. N. longitude 200 deg. E. the wind having veered to the S. E. which enabled us to steer N. E. and E. This course we con- tinued till the 12lli, when the wind huviug changed, we tacked, and stood to the north- ward, in latitude ;)(> d< g. >J. longitude 206 deg. 15 min. E. In this advanced latitude, and even in the winter season, we had only begun to feel a sensation of cold in the mornings and evenings ; a proof of the equal and durable influence of the heat of tJie sun, at all times, to 30 degrees on each side the line. After that, the disproportion is known to be very great. This must he at-, tributed principally to the direction of the sun's rays, indepenaent of the bare distance, which is not equal to the effect. On Thurs- day the 19th, being in latitude 37 deg. N. longitude 206 deg. E the wind veered to the S. E. and we were again enabled to steer ta the E. inclining to the N. On he 25lh, we reached the latitude of 42 deg. 30 min. longi- tude 219 deg. when we be^an to meet with the rock-weed, mentioned in Lord Anson'f voyage, by ihe name of the sea-leek, whicli is generally seen by the Manilla ships. Since we Left Sandwich Islands, we had scarcely be^ \\e\d a bird, or aqy other oceanic animaj.;. On Sunday, the 1st of March, in latitude 44 deg. 49 min. N. and in longitude 228 deg. £. we had moderate and mild weather, which appeared to us veiy extraordinary ». when we were so Ikr N. and jso near ai)! n i '•' im C31 VOYAGE TOWARDS Tllh INUKTH POLE. extensive continent, at this time of the year. Another singfiilar circnnistance is, that we thoiild meet with so few birds, compared to those we suw in the same latitudes, to the 8. of the line. Ilence we may conolnde, that, in the southern hemisphere, beyond 40 deg. tiic species are much more nnmerons and llie Ishinds more plentilnlly scattered, than any where near that hilitnde, between the coast of California and Jajian. On the morning of the 2nd, during a calm, part of the sea ap|)eared to be covered with a kind of slime, and small sea animals. When they swam about, which they did with ease in various directions, they emitted the bright- est colours of the most valuable gems, ac- cording to their position, respecting the light. Some of them were taken up and put into a glass of salt water, when, at one lime, they appeared pellucid, at another displaying the various tints of blue, from a pale saphirine to a voilet, mixed with a kind of ruby, and glowing with suflicient strength to illumi- nate tiie glass of water. When the vessel was held to the strongest light, the tints ap- peared most vivid ; but almost vanished when the anir ^^ubsided to the bottom, and they had .. a brownish appearance. By candle-lighf, ttie colour was, princij)ally, a beautiful pale green, with a kind ot bur- nished gloss : and, in the dark, it fuintly exhibited a glowing fire. They are a new species of oniscus, called by Mr. Anderson, onificus fulgenSt and supposed to be an animal which contributes to that lucid ap- pearance often observed at sea in the night. On Frid.iy the 6th, at noon, in latitude 44 deg. N. longitude 234 deg. aO min. E. we saw two seals, and several whales ; and on the 7th, early in the morning, the long ex- pected coast of New Albion, so named by Sir Francis Drake, was descried, at the dis- tance of ten leagues, extending from N. E. to S. E. At noon we were in latitude 44 deg. 33 min. N. longitude 2;)5 deg. 20 min. E. and the land about eight leagues distant. This formed a point at the northern extreme, which our Commodore named Cape Foul- weather, from the exceeding bad weather we afterwards met with. After several attempts attended with many difficulties, on Monday the 9th, we tacked, and stood in again for th« land : but the wind continually shifting, and blowing in squalls, with hail and sleet, obliged us to stand of}' and on, without see- ing the least sign of a harbour. The land which we nnprouclied on our different tacks, is moderately high, but in many places it rises alill higher within. It is diversified with hills and rising grounds, nnuiy of which are covered with tall straight trees; and others, not so high, grew in spots, like clumps, but the spaces between, and the sides of the rising grounds were clear. Such a prospect in summer might be very agreea* ble, but at this season, it h.id an uncomfort< able appearance, the bare grounds along the coast being covered with snow, which seemed to lie in abundance between the hills and rising grounds, and in many places, towards the se», had at a distance, the ap^ pearance of white cliffs. On the rising gronnds, the snow was thinner spread ; and farther inland, there seemed to be none at all. Hence it might perhaps, be concluded, that the snow which we had seen towards the sea, had fallen the preceding night; which was, indeed, the coldest we had ex- perienced since our arrival on this coast ; a kind of sleet fell sometimes; and the weather became very unsettled. The coast appeared almost straight in every part, not having any opening or inlet, and terminated in a kind of sandy beach ; though it wasimngiri* ed by some on board, that such appearance was owing to the snow. Euch extreme oj the land shot out into a point; the northern one was that which we had seen on tiie 7th, and tiierefore the Captain calletl it Cape Perpetua. Its latitude is 44 Ae^. min.N, and its longitude 235 r(' they were moorad. The Resolution was now become very leaky in her upper works on which account the carpenters were order- ed to caulk her, and to repair any other defects they might discover. In the course of this day, the news of our arrival brouirjn vast numbers of the natives about our ships At one time we counted above a hundred canoes, each of which, on an average, had five people on board ; fe\v containing less than three; many having seven, eight, or nine and one was manned with seventeen. Many of these were new visitors, which we discoverfl by their orations and ceremonies. If thev at first, had ap()rehended that we meant to be hostile, their fears were now removed • for they ventured on board the ships, and mixed with our people with the utmost free- dom and familiarity. We discovered, how- ever, by this intercourse, that they were as fond of pilfering as any we had met ujth during our voyage : and they were much more mischievous than any of the other thieves we had found ; for, having sharp instruments in their possession, they could, the instant that our backs were turned, cut a hook from a tackle, or a piece of iron from a rope. They stripped our boats of every piece of iron that was worth taking away, though some of our men were always left in them as a guard. They were, indeed so dextrous in effecting their purposes, that one fellow would contrive to amuse our peo- ple at one end of the boat, while his ooufe-. derate was forcing off the iron work at the other. If an article that had been stolen, was immediately missed, the thief was easily detected, as they were Vond of impeacliin;,' each other: but the prize was always reluct'- antly given up by the guilty person ; and sometimes compulsive means were obliged to be used in order to regain it. Wednesday, April the 1st, having safely moored our ships, we proceeded to otiier necessary business. The observatories were taken ashore, and placed on a rock, nn one side of the cove. A party of nmmenced ; in the course of which several people in canoes passed between the two parties, and sonae debates ensued. At length the matter in dispute appeared to be adjusted ; but the strangers were not permitted to approach oar ships. Itisinost likely we were the priri- 5 cipal occasion of the miarrci ; the strangers, perhaps, insisting on Having a right of Mbur- mg in the advantages of a trade with ns ; and our first friends resolving to engross us entirely to tliemselves. We were convinced of this on many other occasions ; uay, even among those who lived in the sound, the weaker were often obliged to submit to the stronger party, and were plundered of every thing, without even attempting to make any resistance. Sundav, the 5th, the carpenter discovered the cheeks of the toremast to be rotten, and began to supply it u ith new ones. It was for« tunatc that these defects should be discover- ed, when we were so commodiously situated, as to be able to procure the materials that were requisite. On the 7th, while tlie fore- mast was repairing, the Captain ordered a new set of main-rigging to be fitted. From our putting into the sound to this day, the weather had been remarkably fine ; but in the morning of the 8th we had rain with a fresh gale, and in the evening it blew ex- tremely hard : but though these tempestu- ous blasts succeeded each other auickly, they were of short duration : yet we liad the misfortune to have our mizen-mast give way at the head. About eight o'clock, the gale abated, but the rain continued, almost without intermission. During these soualls the natives frequently brought us small cod, small bream, or sardine, and a supply of other fish. Sunday the 12th, in the even- ing, we received a visit from a tribe of na- tives, whom we had not seen before, and who, in general, made a better appearance than otH' old friends. When conducted into the cabin, thc^re was not an object that fixed their attention ; all our novelties were look- ed on with indiflference, except by a very (ew, who shewed a certain degree of curi- soity. On Thursday the 16tlK when our carpenters had made a considerable progress on the mizen-mast, they discovered that the tree on which they were at work, was wound* ed, owing, it was imagined, to some ac- cident in cutting it down. It therefore be- came neccessary to procure aiu^ther tree out of the woods, on which work all hands were employod alioutbalfa day. During , >,;: ,1 ^*^ ■ 1 638 VOYAGE TOWAUDS TUK NORTH POLE. Uiis operation, many of the natives were giizin^ oil with an inexpressible surprise, tvhioii, from their general inattention, we did not expect. On Satrrday, the 18th, a party of strangers, in seven or eight canoes, came into the cove, and after looking at us for some tinier retired. We concluded, that otir old friends would not suffer them to have any dealings with us. It was evident, indeed, that the neighbouring inhabitants engrossed us entirely to themselves ; and that they carried on a tratttc with more dis^ tant tribes, in those articles they had re- ceived from us : for they frequently disa|)- peared four or five days, together, and returned with fresh cargoes of curiosities and skins. Such of them as visited ns daily, after having disposed of their trides, employ- ed themselves in fishing, and we always partook of what they caught ; we also pro- cured from them a considerable quantity of ^ood animal oil, which they brought to us in bladders. Some indeed, attempted to cheat ns, by mixing water with oil ; and once or twice they so far imposed npon us, as to fill their bladders with water only. In exchange f«t>ing now finished. Captain Cook set out f lie next morning to survey the sound. Pro- oct'dJMg" tirst to the west |)oint, we discover- ed a large village, and, before it a very snug haiboiir, with from nine to four fathoms wa- fer. I'he inhabitants of this village, who were nMinerous, and to many of whom the Com- lUodftre was no stranger, received him with great courtesy, every one pressing him to en- ter his apartment ; for several families have Jiabitations under the same roof. He ao- 6 cepte«l politely the invitations, and the hos- pitable trientlM whom we visited, teslitie,| every rnark of civility and respect. In UMUiy of these habitations women were em- ployed, iij making dresses of the bark or )lant already mentioned, and executed iheir )usiness much like the natives of New Zen- and : others were busy in opening sardines; arge shoals of which we have seen brouglit on shore, and measured out to several peo- ple,^ who carried them home, where they performed the operation of curing them : this is clone by stnoke-drying. They are hung upon small rods ; at first, about a foot over the fire ; they are then removed higher and higher, to make room for others. When dried, they are closely packed in bales, anU the baleig covered with mats. Thus they are preserved till wanted, and are not unpleasant food. Tbey also cure cod, and other large fish in the same manner; but these are sometimes dried in the open air. Leaving thi,s village, we proceeded up the west side «»t the sound. For near three miles we saw several small Islands, so situated ns to form some convenient harbours, the t\e\t\U% bring from thirty to seven fathoms. About two leagues within the sound, on the same side, an arm runs in the direction of N.N, W. and another in the same direction about two miles farther. About a mile above the second arm we found the ruins of a village. The framings of the houses remained stand- ing, but the boards or roofs were taken away. Behind this deserted village is a small plain, covered with the largest pine- trees we had ever seen. This was singular, as most of the elevated ground on this .side the sound appeared rather naked. Passiuiy: from lience to the east side, we observed nlint we had before imagined, that it was an Is- land, under which the ships lay; and tlvit many smaller ones lay scattered about on tlie west side of it. Upon the main land, opposite the north end of our I&iland, we saw a village, and landed there, but our Commodore uas not so politely received by the inhabitants, as by those of the other village be had visited. This cold reception was occasioned by one surly chief, who would not suffer him to en- ter their houses, making expressive sign% i1 age. nd- aken is a >ine- iilar, side sing Is- tWtt I the osite lage. was Is, as [ited. one en- |igi)5, AND ROUND THK UORLD. 039 lliathewas impatient for iiiiii to be gone. lihei-ally pniil the first pretendtil proprietors, Capt. Cook endeavoured m vain to sooth that fresh demands were made from others, him with presents ; these he did not re- so that every single bhide of grass might fuse, though he continned the same kind of Iiave had a separate owner ; and so many behaviour. But notwithstanding this treat- of tiiem were to be satisfied, that his pucketa nient from the inhospitable chief, some of presently became empty. When they were the young women expediti«>nsly apparelled convinced of this last striking' circnmstancci lliemselves in their best habiliments, assem- they ceased to be importunate, and we were hied in a body, and, joining in an agreeable permitted to cut where we thought proper, sing, gave us a hearty welcome. JiLvening as much as we pleased. Here it is worthy now drawing on, Capt. Cook proposed re- of observation, that we never met with any liuniug, and we proceeded for the ships, uncivilized nation, or tribe, who possessed rotnul the north end ot the Island. When such strict notions of their having a i exclu- letnrned aboard, we were informed that in sive property in the produce of their roun- onr absence, some strangers from the S. E. try, as the inhabitants of this sound. They Um\ visited our people in the ships, who even wanted our people to pay for the wood purchased of them two silver table spoons, and water that were carried aboard. Mad that appeared to be of Spanish manufacture. Capt. Cook been present wlieiv these de- They were worn round the neck of one of mands were made, he would doubtless have those visitors by way of ornament. complied with them; but our workmen Wednesday, the2'2nd, about eight o'clock thought ditt'erently, and paid little or no at- A. M. we were visited by a number of stran- tention to such claims. The natives tliijik- g[trs from the southward. After their depar- ing we were determined not to pay the least tiire the two Captains, Cook, and Clerke, consideration, at length ceased to apply, for went in their own boats to the village at the the same: but they frequently took occa- west point, where our Commodore had been sion to remind us, that their esteem for us two days before, and had observed that plen- had induced then> to make us a present of tyof grass was to be had near it ; and it was wood and water. Having completed all necessary to get a supniy of this, for the few our operations at this village, the natives remaining goats and sneepthat were still on and the two Captains took a friendly leave board. We received the same welcome re- of each other, and we returned to the ships, ception as before, and onr Commodore or- in the afternoon. (lered some of the people to begin cutting: 'I'he '2'3rd, '24tb, and 'i'jth, were employed not imagining the natives w.>uld object to in preparing for sea ; the sails were bent; our furnishing ourselves with what couhl not the observatories and other articles were re« be of any use to them, though essenti.'dly moved from the shore; and both ships put uecessary for us. In this, however, we were into a proper condition for sailing. On mistaken, for as soon as our men began Snntlay the 26th, the Commodore intended cutting the grass, some of the inhabitants to have set sail, but having both wind and would not permit them to proceed, saying, tide against ns, we were under a necessity "Makook," signifying, that we must buy of waiting till noon, when the tide turning ihem first. During this event, Capt. Cook in our favour, the ships were towed out of was in one of the houses, but, hearing of it, the cove. At four o'clock P. M. the mer- ne repaired immediately to the field, where cury in the barometer sunk nncommonly he found about ns, a dozen claimants of low, and we had every appearance of an ap^ drfferent parts cf the grass, that grew on the proching storm from the southward; but premises. The Commodore treated with the Captain's anxiety to prosecute the voy- them for it, and having complied with the age, and the fear of loosing^ so good an ojior- tenns of his purchase, thought we had now tunity of getting out of the sound, opperated full liberty to cut whatever we pleased, more strongly upon his mind than the ap^ Uer^ Ue was again mistaken ; for he had so prehension of dcmger, and he resolved Ut m «'' 'F-i'l- 1.. ii.-Fv mr, 640 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, put to sea . Wc were attended by the natires till we were almost out of the sound ; some III t4)eir cunoes, and others on board the shifis. One of the chiefs who had particu- iariy attached himself to Ca|it Cook, was among the last who parted ironi us. The Captain a little time before we got under way, made him a small present ; for which lie received, in return, a beaver skin of much superior value. For this reason the -Ca[>tain inadi; un addition to his present, which pleased the chief so highly, that he presented to the Commodore the beaver- skin cloak which he then wore, and of which lie was particularly fond. Struck with this \n- stance of generosity, and wishing him not to be a sufferer by his gratitude, Capt. Cook insisted upon his acceptance of a new broad* sword, with a brass hilt, with which he ap- peared greatly delighted. We were ear- nestly importuned by the chief, and many of his countrymen, to pay them another visit ; who, by way of inducement, promised to procure a large stock of skins. Before we Continue the progress of our voyage, we think it may . be no small entertainment to our readers, to comprise in the remainder of this chapter further particulars relative to the country and its inhabitants. The inlet in which our ships were moor- ed is called by the natives Nootka, but Capt. Cook gave it the name of King George's Sound. The entrance is in the east corner of Hope Bay, in latitude 49 deg. 33 min. N. longitude 233 deg. 12 min. E. The east coast is covered by a chain of sunken rocks, and, near the sound, are some Islands and r.. ks above water. We entered the sound between two rocky points, lying E. S. E. and W. N. W. from each other, distant four miles. The sound widens within these points, and extends to the nortUwar^ at least four leagues. In the middle of i$ are a number of Islands of various sizes. The depth of water, not only in the r^id^le of the sound, but also close to some parts of the shore, is from forty-seven to ninety fathoiiis or more. Within its circuit, t^ har|f|oiirs and (anchor- ing places are numerous. The CQ,ve, where our ships anchored, is on th« etist side of the ■ouad« wad also on the e^t qf t|ie largest o Island. Its principal recommendation U that of being covered from the sea ; for it is exposed to the S. E. winds, which some- times blow with great violence. Unon the se4 coast, the land is tolerably high ; buf, within the sound, it rises into steep hills' which have a uniform appeiirance, encilnn- in roundish tops, with sharp ridges on thei7- sides. Many of these hills are high ; all of them are covered to their summits ujtii the thickest woods. The soil upon them is produced from rotten mosses and trees, ol the depth of about two feet. Their founda- tions are nothing more than stupendous rocks; of a grey or whitish cast when ex- posed to the weather ; but, when broken are of a bluish grey colour. The rocky shores consist entirely of this; and the beaches of the little coves in the sound are comiiosed of fragments of it. The climate appears to be infinitely mild. er than that on the east coast of America under the same {parallel of latitude. We Eerceived no frost in any of the low ground; ut, on the contrary, vegetation jiroceeded very briskly ; for, at this time, we saw grass upwards of a foot long. The trees of w-lijoii the woods are composed are the Canadian pine, white cypress, and two or three other sorts of pine. The two first are in the great- est abundance. At a distance they resem- ble each other ; but they are easily distin- guished on a nearer view, the cypress being of a paler green than the other. In general, the trees grow here with great vigour, and' are of a Targe size. About the rocks and borders of the woods, we saw some straw- berry plants, rasberry, currant, and goose- berry bushes, all in a flourishing state. We found alsoa f^w black alder trees ; a species of sow-thistle ; some cow's-foot with a fine crimson flower, and two sorts of antheri- cum. We met with some wild rose-busheit, just budding : some young leeks ; a small sort of grass, and some water-cresses ; be- sides a great abundance of andromeda. The season of the year did not permit us to acquire much knowledge of the vegetables of this country; and being in a cove, or an Island, all the animals that we saw alive wei'e two or tbret; racoons» martins, squirrels: AND ROUND THE WOULD. y fv •V cnfl some of our people who landed on tlie continent, on the south-east side of the found, observed the prints of a bear's feet, not far from the shore ; but we could only judge of the quadrupeds from the skins pur- chased of the inhabitants, and these were sometimes so multilated, that we could not «ven guess to whatspecdes of animals they belonged, though others were so perfect as not to admit a doubt about them. The most common of these last sorts were bears, deer, foxes, and wolves. Bear-skins are in abundance, but not very large; their co- lour is generally a shining black. The deer-skins are not so plentiful, and appear to belong to what the mhabitants of North- Carolina in America, call the fallow-deer ; but Mr. Millar, in his New System of Na- tural History distinguishes it by the name of Virginian deer, and thinks it quite a ditrer" ent species from oar's. The sea animals seen off the coast were ^viiales, porpoises and seals ; the last of these seem only of the common sort. Though sea-otters are amphibious, yet we may con- sider them as belonging to this class, as liv- ingr principally in the water. The fur of these animals, as mentioned in the Russian accounts, is certainly softer and finer than that of any other animals known by the Europeans ; consequently the discovery of this i)art of the continent of North-America, where so valuable an article of commerce may be met with, cannot be a matter of in- ditterence. Mr. Coxe, in his Russian dis- coveries, on the authority of Mr. Pallas, says, that the old and middle ag«d sea-otters skins are sold at Kiatchta by the Russians, to the Chinese, from 80 to 100 rubles a skin, that is from 161. to 201. each. The birds that frequent the waters and the sho-es are for from being numerous: they are very shy, owing perhaps, to their beiiii!: continnally harrassed by the natives, either to eat, or for their feathers to he worn IS ornaments. We met with humming biriis, ditierent in some respects from the va- rions sorts already known of this delicate little animal, ^hags and gulls are also fre- quent in the sound. Some swans too were er which is worn a small cloak of the same substance, fringed at the bottom, and reaching to the waist. They wear a cap,in the shape of a flower-pot, made of very Ane matting, ornamented with a bunch of leathern tassels, and having a string passing under the chin, to prevent its bjowing off. Besides the above dress, which is common to both sexes, the men throw frequently over their other garments the skin of a bear, wolf, or .sea-otter, with the hair outward. and ti^ it af a cloak, near the uppn pai^ wearing it sometimes trefore, and soinetiuies belnnd. Was thi» dress kept clean, it would by no' means be inelegant ; but as tltev are continually rnbbmg their bodies over with a red paint, mixed with oil, their gar. ments become greasy, and contract a ran- cid offensive smell. The appearance, in- deed* of these people is both wretched and filthy, and their beads and garments swarm with lice. So lost are they to every idea of cleanliness, that we frequently saw tlieni pick off these vermin, and eat them with the greatest composure. Their faces are or- namented with a variety of colours; a black a bright red, or a white colour ; the last of these gives them a ghastly appearance' Oyer the paint they strew the brown martial mica, which causes it to glitter. Many of their ears are perforated in the lobe, where they make a large hole, and two smaller oiie« higher up on the outer edge. In these holes are hung bits of bone, quills fastened upon a leathern thong, shells, bunches of tassels or thin pieces of copper. In some, the seii' turn of the nose is also perforated, and a piece of cord drawn through it. Otj^ers >venr at the same place, pieces of copper, brass or iron, shaped somewhat like a horse-shoe' the narrow opening receiving the septum' so that it may be pinched gently by the two points, and thus the ornament hangs over the upper lip. Their bracelets, which thiy wear about their wrists, are bunches of wljife bugle beads, or thongs with tassels, or a black, broad, homy, shining substance. Round their ancles they wear frequently lea* them thongs, or the sinews of animak curi- ously twisted. Besides these, their ordinary dresses, they have some that are used only when going forth to war, and exhib'''''ic» themselves to strangers in ceremonial visits. Among these are the skins of bears or wolves, tied on like their other garments, but edged with broad borders of fur, ornamented inge- niously with various figures. They are worn separately, or over their common clothing. The most usual head-dress, on these occa- sions, is a quantity of withe, wrapped about the head, with large feathers, |»urtioa!uiiy those of eagles stuck in it^ or entirely cuvcrek VISIIS. olves, edged in^e- e worn thing. ocoa- i about »!uily ffftSk ainail wkite feat)i«rs. At the same tim)^ the taoe is variopsly^paintedii the upper Anil 'iower port!} being oi, f>pppsite colours, pnid the strokes having the appearance of large gashes ; or it i[s l>esmeareu with a kind 'y)t',fat or tallow, mixed with paint, formed into a great variety of figures, somewhat like carved work. The hair, sometimes, is AND nomO TH^j \mPW,>/ v/>v (^^ quiet, phlegfmatic disposition ; though defi- cient in viv£^ity;iip'i^ndei' themselves agree- able in Society! They 'di'e* rdtlier reset ved tl^an loquacious ; b»t thf^if gravity setms constitutional, and iiot th'.' result of any par- ticular mode of education : for the orations' made by them on puhlic occasions, are little more than short stintences, or only single separated- into small parcels, and tied, at in- words forcibly reneaked in one tone of voice, tervals, with thread : others tie it behind, accompanied with a sinofle gesture at every after the English fashion. Thus equipped, sentence. Fronr tlieir ottering' human skulls rtiey have a truly savage and ridiculous ap- and bdnes to sale, there is not the least reason pearance, which is much heightened when .odoubtoftheir treating their enemies with u they assume their monstrous decorations, savage cruelty ; butas this circumstance va- These consists of a great varietv of wooden ther marks a general agreement of cljafacter ftiasks;! applied to the face, forehead, or up-* among almost every uncivilized tribe, in per part of the head. Some of the visors re- every age and country, they are not to be semble human faces, having hair, beards, and reproached with any charge of peculiar in- eye-bi-ows ; others represent the heads of humanity. We liacf not ariy reason to judge birds, and various animals, such as deer, unfavourable of their disposition in this porpoises, wolves, &c. Such kind of repre- tespect: they appear to be docile, coiir- sentations exceed generally the natural size, teous, and good-natured; but, notwith- and they are trequently strewed with pieces standing their phlegmatic temper, they are of the nnca, which makes them glitter, and q^uick in resenting injuries ; yet, like all i)as« augments their deformity. In these imagi-* .<>ionate people, they forget them quickly, nary decorations, they sometimes run into Itmustbe admitted that they are not wholly greater t'xccss, and nx large pieces of carv- unsusceptible of the tender passions, wliicfi ed work upon the head, projecting to a con- is evident from their being fond of music siderabte distance, and resembling the prow and that too of the pathetic kind, of a canoe. Whether these extravagant Their songs are generally slow and so- masquerade ornaments are used onanyreli- lemn. Sonnets were song by single per- [viousocrasiontor in any kind of diversion, or fonners, keeping time by striking the whether they are intended to intimidate by hand against the thigh. A rattle, and a iheir monstrous appearance, or as decoys small whistle, are the only instruments of when hunting animals, is uncertain. One of music which we saw among them. The the dresses seems peculiarly adapted to war: rattle is used when they siii^; ; but upon It is a thick tanned leathern mantle, double, what occasions the whistle is employed, wei nndappearstobethe skin of an elk, or butfalo. knovif not, unless it be when they assume the Tliis IS fastened on in the ordinary manner, figures of particutar.animals, and endeavour iind is«o contrived as to coverthe breast quite to imitate their howl or cry. We once saw np to the throat ; part of it, at the same one of these people dressed in the skin of a time, falling down to their heels. This gar- wolf, with the head covering his own, striv- ment is curiously painted, and is strong ing to imitate that animal, by making a enough, as we understood from them, to re- squeakingnoise with a whistle he had inJiis nst even spears ; so that it may be consider- mouth. The rattles are generally in the ed as their completest defeiibive armour, shape of a bird, with the small pebbles in Though we cannot view these people with- the belly, and the tail is the handle. We out a kind of horror, when they are thus observed another sort, ^hich resembles a «trangely apparelled, yet when divested of child*s rattle. \ o,i' - ; these extravagant dresses, and beheld in In trafficing with us, some of them dis- iheir common habit, they seem to be of a |)la^;ed a j disposition i© kDavtry; lakinff •si ■"'■•i^rBS id ■.:l >v- \m 6U H VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NOKTII POLE, away our goods without raakin(^ any return. IJut th6 lri»faii*de!» of this were rare, and Ave had abundant rela«on to approve the inte-' grity of (heir conduct. However, their eaeer- iieils to iiossessiron/ brass, or any kind of metal, was so great, that when an opportu- nity presented itsell^, few of them could re- sist the temptation to steal it. The inhabi- tants of the South-xea Islands in their petty larcenies wer^ actuated by a childish dispo- sition, rather than a thievish one. The no- irelty of the object excited their curiosity, ;md was a sufficient inducement for them to get possession of it by any means ; but the natives of Nootka, wno made free with our ?roperty, are entitled to no such aiwloipry. 'he appftllation of thieves iscertainl* appli- cable to Ihein ; for they well knew that 3;hat they pilfered from us would be subser- vient to the private purposes of utility : and jt was fortunate for us, that metals were the pnly articles opon which they set any value ; but thefts are very common among them- selves, producing continually quarrels, of w4)ich we saw several instances. The two villages we visited are- probably the only inhabited parts of the sound. The number of inhabitants may be computed /mm the canoes that visited our sliifis the second day after our arrival They consist- ed of about a hundred, which upon an ave- rage, contained, at least, five persons each ; but as there were very few women, children, or young men among them, we may reason- mbly suppose, that the number of souls in (he two villages, rrudd not be less than four limes the numberof our visitors, being in the whole two thousand. The village, situated at the entrance of the sound, stands on the sule of a pretty steep ascent, extendinp^from the beach to the wood. There are holes, or windows, in the sides of the Iumisps to look out at, havin(; bits of mat hung before them, to prevent (he rain getting in. Their hou<;es, in the inside, may, with propriety, be com- pared to a long English stable with a double range of stalls, and a board passage in the middle ; for the different families are sepa- rated oiily by a piece of plank. Close to the sides, in each of these parts, is a bench of boards, raised five or six feet higher than 4 the rest of the floor, ^nd covered with mats whereon the family nit and sleep. These benches are commonly seven or eight feel long, and four or fifve broad. In the middle of the floor, between them, is the fire-place, Ivhich has neither hearth nor chimnev. This fiart appeared common to them all. The nastiness and stench of their houses itre at least equal to the confusion within; for, as they dry their fish within doors, they alxo gut them there, which, wifh their lx»nee(oiue troublesome^ from their size, to walk over them. In a word, their houses are as fifthy as hog-sties ; every thing in, and alwmt them stinking of fish, train oil and smoke. Their furniture consists chiefly of chests and boxes of various sizes, piled upon each other, at the sides or «nds of each house, wherein they deposit all their valuables, s«eh as skins, garments, masks, &c. Many of these boxes are pairtod black, and studded with the teeth of animals or rudely decorit led with figures of birds carved. To complete the scene of confusion, in different parts of their habitations are hung up implements of fish- ing, and other articles. Among these we may leckon their images, which are nothing more than the trunks of large trees, of the height of about four feet, placed at the up- per end of the apartment, with a human face carved on the front, and the hands and arms upon the sides. These figures are variously painted, and make, upon the whole, a ridi- culous appearance. They are called gene- rally Klumma. A sort of curtain, made of mat, usually hnn-z before the images, which the natives were j;oi;' f'nies nnwillingto re- iiiove ; and when the} did consent to unveil them, they seemed to express themselves in a very mysterious manner ; and yet they were neld in no very extraordinary degree of estimation, seeine. with a small quantity of brass or iron, all the idols in tlw place might have been purchased. Mr. Webber, when drawing a view of the inside of a house, wherein those figures were placed, was interrupted in his work by one of the N i^ AND !r6tND' THE WbRiki? \ i-o 0-- 64f i' Inhabitants. VK Webber, thinking a bribe aflbrding fish, muscles, jitoailersliell-fisb,.' vvuuld have a proper effect, prei'sented to hfm and .^ea Uniit; ails. Among[ the first are her- ainetut-butldntVoni his coat, which iinrnedi- rings, sardines, two species of hreain, and utely otieiated us was intended : soon after some small cod. The herrings and surdin^ lie was' again interrupted by the same man, not only serve to be eaten fresh in their sea^ who held a mat before the hgures: our gen- son, but to be dried and smoaked as storey tieman therefore grave him another button. The roes of these also, strewed np'Mi fhd niid was again suffered to proceed. The man branches of the Canadian pine, <1r prefiarcd then renewed liis former tricks, till Mr, upon a long sea grass, afford them another \Vebber had parted wiiii every single but- grand resource for food. They also eat the ton ; after which he received not any tUrther roe of some other large fish, that has a very molestation, rancid smell and taste. 'J'he large muscles Astoth:i domestic life of these people, arc found in great abundance in the sound, the men seem to be chiefly employed in lish- After having roasted them in their shells, in!? and killing animals, for the sustenance they are stuck upon long wooden skewers, of their lamilies, few of them being engaged and taken off'as they are wanted to be eaten. ill any household business ; but the women They require no other preparation, though were employed in manufacturing their car- they are sometimes dipped in oil, as sauce, inents ; and in cuiing sardines, which tliey The porpoise is a food more common among also carry from the canoes to their houses, them, than that of any other animal in their Tiiey also go in small canoes, to gather sea; the ffesh and rind of which they cul muscles, and other shell-ffsh. Tn the la* into large pieces, dry them as they do her- bonr of the padd^e they are as dextrous as rings, and eat them without farther prepa- tlie tncn, who shew them very little respect ration. They also make a sort of broth or {attention on this, of any other occasion, from the porpoise, when fresh, in a very sio- But the young men are remarkably indo- gular manner. They put some (lieces of it lent, sitting generally about in scattered into a wooden vessel, containing a sutlicient companrts.Dasking in the sun, or wallowing quantity of water, into which they throw in the sand upon the beach, like so many heated stones. This operation is repeated hogs, wittiout any kind of covering. Tliis till the contents are supposed to be stewed disregard of deceticy was, however, conffned enough. This is a conimon dish among solely to ih^ males for the females were ihem, and seems to be a strong nourishing always clothed, and behaved with great food. They likewise feed probably n|)on mopriety, itteriting justly commendation whales, seals, and sea-otters, the skins of toramod^t bashtulness, so becoming- that the two latter being common among them, sex. in the women of this place, it is the and fhey are furnished with imi)lenienls of more meritorious, as the men have not the all Sorts for their destruction, though perhaps iVast sense of shame. Both sexes pass much they may not be able, at all seasons, to catch of tlieir time in their canoes, especially in them in great plenty. However, from these, the summer: in which they eat, sleep, and other sea animals, they procure oil in and frequently lie to bask themselves in the great abundance, which they use, mixed sun; for these purposes they ar« sufficiently with other food, as sauce ; and often sip it spacious, and are, in rainy "weather, more alone with a kind of horn-scoop. Their fomfortab'.e habitations than their filthy fresh skins, dt this time, were Very scarce ; houses. as were the land animals; for we saw no Though their food, strictly speaking may flesh belonging to the latter ; and, though be said to c'onsist of every thing animal or their skins Were to be had tit plenty, they vegetable that they can procure, yet the might perhaps, have been procured from quantity of the latter bears an exceeding other tribes. Fr6m these, and other ciroum- ismall proportion to that of the former. Their stances, it plahjty appeared to us, (hut these ireatest reliance for food is upon the sea, as people are finrriished with the prinoiiia! j)art !;■ '■ M m ■MM ' i"! :•■ :i n<:\ .:, f fs. 04 fixed in the mouth so as to representa tonojie of a great magnitude. To heighten the "re- semblance, human hair is also fixed to it. This weapon is called taaweesh ; and tliejr have another made of stone, which tliey call seeaik, about ten or twelve inches long, having a square point, From the number of their weapons it may he reasonably con- cluded, that they engage frequently in close combat ; and we had very disagreeable C roofs of their wars being both frequent and loody, from the quantity of human skulls that were offered to us for sale. With res|>ect to the design and execntJQn of their manufiictures, and mechanic 'ari>, they are more extensive and ingenibus thaii could possibly be expected from the natural disposition of the people, and the little pro- gress they have made in civilization. The fiaxen and woollen garments engage their first care, as being the most material of those that may be classed under the head of ma- nufactures. The former are fabricated from the bark of the pine-tree, beat into a niHss resembling hemp. After having been pre- pared in a proper manner, it is spread u[)or a stick, fastened to two others in an erect pn- sition. The manufacturer, who sits on lier hams at this simple machine, knots it across at the distance of about half an inch from each other, with small plaited threads. Though it cannot, by this method, be ren- dered so close and firm as cloth that in woven, it is sufficiently impervious te tlic air, aodi is likewise softer and more pliablo. AND ROUND TI|E,WQHLD. VAf Their woollen garments have much the ap- ]teoranro of woven clotli ; hut the supposi- tion of. their being wrought in a loom ih destroyed, by t))e vavlnus figures that are ingeniously inserted in them ; it being very imftrobable that these people should be •ble to produce such a complex work, ex- cept immediately by their hands. They ore of different qualities J some resembling our coarsest sort of blankets; and others not much inferior to our finest sort, and certainly botli softer and warmer. The wool of which they are manufactured, seems to be procured from difierent animals, particularly the fox siui bro^vn lynx. That from the lynx is the finest, and nearly resembles our coarser wools in colour ; but the h:tir, which also (rrovvs upon the animni, being intermixed with it, causes the appearance to be some- what different when wrought. The orna- mental figures in these garments are dispos- ed with great taste, ana are generally of a difTerent colour, being usually dyed either of a deep brown, or a yellow ; the latter of which, when new, equals in brightness, the niost vivid in our best carpets. Their taste for carving on all their wooden articles, corresponds with that of working fif^nres upon their garments. Nothing is to be seen without a kind of freeze-uork, or a renresentation of some animal upon it ; but the most common one is that of the human face. The general design of these f 4-ures conveys a suihcient knowledge of the ob- jects they are intended to represent ; and in the execution of many of the masks and heads, they prove themselves to be inge- nious sculptors. They preserve, with the^ greatest exactness, the general character of their own faces, and finish the more minute parts with great accuracy and neatness. Thai these people have a fondness for works of this sort is observable in a variety of par- ticulars. Representations of human figures, birds, beasts, fish, and models of house-bold utensils, were found among them in a very great abundance. To their skill in the imi- tative arts, we may add their drawing them in colonrs. The whole process of their whale-fishery has been represented, in this Kitmner, on the caps they wear. The exe- 7 cution was indeed rude, but herel>y we were convinced, that though they have not the knowledgeof lettersamongst them, they havtt a notion of representing actions in a fasting way, exclusive of recording them in theii songs and traditions. The structure of their canoes is simple, yet they ore well calculated for every useful puri>ose The largest sort, which in each one will contain upwards of tweitty people, are formed of a sinxle tree. The length o( many of them is foi fy i'eet, the l>readth seven, and the depth three. They become gradu- ally narrower from the middle towards the end, the stern endino: perpendicularlyi with a knob at the top. The fore-part stretches forwards and upwards, and ends in a point, or prow, much higher than the sides of fhe canoe, which are nearly straight. I'he greatest part of them are witliout any orna- ment ; but some have a little carving, and are studded with seals teeth on the surface. They have neither seats, nor any other sup-* porters, on the inside, except some small round sticks, about the size of a walking cane, placed across, about half the depth of a canoe. They are very light, and, on ac- count of their breadth and flatness, swim firmlv, without an out-rigger, of which they all destitute. Their paddles, which are are small and light, resemble a small leaf ip shane, being pointed at the bottom, broad in the niiddje, and gradually becoming nar- rower in the .shaft ; the whole length being above five feet. By constant practice, they have acquired great dexterity in the man- agement of these paddles ; but they never make use of any sails. In their employment of fishing and hunt- ing, their instruments are ingeniously con- trived, and completely made. They con- sist of nets, hooks, lines, harpoon.s, gigs, and an instrument resembling an oar. The last is about twenty feet in length, four or five inches in breadth, and of the thickness of half an inch. The edges for about two thirds of its length, are set with sharp bone- teeth ; the other third serving for a liandle. With this instrument they strike herrings, sardines, and other fish that come in shoals, which ar«< taken either upon or in tlie tceth» MM i#-ii. :^. ■' i ;li ^J,. ni8 XOVAr.i: TOWAIiDS IIIE NOIlTll TOLn Tlicir liookji, iiKi(eared gi%atly contiMuid( d. Our explft* AND ROUND THE WORFJ), • 1 • ' - k (m natidli of tb« pitce, together with the nature of its opieration, with the aid of shot and ball, struck them so forcibly, as to convince us of their having no previous ideas on this matter. Tiiough some account of a voyage to this coast, by the Spaniards, in 1774, or 1776, had arrived in England before we sailed, the circumstances just mentioned, prove, that these ships had never been at Kootka. It is also evident, that iron could not h^lve been in so many hands, nor would the use of it have been so well known, if they had so lately obtained the first know- ledge of it. From their {general ivse of tliis iiielal, it probably comes from some C4mstant source, in the way of traffic, and they have perhaiM been long sunplied with it : for tiiey use their tools vyitn as much dexterity as the longed practice can aequire. The most nattu'ol conjecture therefore, is, that they trade fdr their iron with other Indian tribes, who hiay have some communication with European settlements upon that con- tinent, or receive it through seveial interme- diate nations. ' By the same means they probably obtain their brass and copper. Not only the rude materials, but some ina- nufactared articles seem to have found their way hither. The' brass ornaments for noses are made in so masterty a manner, that the Indians cannot be supposed capable of fa- bricating them. We are certain, that the materials are European, as all the American tribes are ignorant of the method of making brass ; but copper has been frequently met with, and, fi*om its ductility, might be easily fashioned into any shape, and polished. If such articles are not used by our traders to Hudson's Bay and Canada, in their traffic with the natives, they must have been intro- doced at Nootka from Mexico ; whence, it is probable, the two silver table spoons were oriafinally derived. With respect to the religious and political in<^titutions established among these people. we cannot be supposed to have acquired imidi knowledge. However, -we discover- ed, I hat there W€lre such men as chiefs, dis- tinguished by the title of acweek, to 'whom the others are, in some degree, subordinate. • 4 0" ■ •••• But the autlinrity of each of (he.sc great nion: seems to extend no rarllier tiian to his o\vt) family, who arknuwiedije him as their htud. Nothing that we saw could give us an in- ' sight into their notions of religion, exrcpt the fi^Mires already mentioned, called Uliini- ma. These, perhaps, were idols; hut ms the word acweek was frequently mentioned when they spoke of them, we suppose they may be the images of some of their ances- tors, whose memories they venerate. Tliis however is all conjecture ; for we could re- ceive no information concerning them, as we knew little more of their language than to enable us to ask the names of things, nud being incapable of holding any conversa- tion with the natives relative to their tnuU- tions, or their relij^ious institutions. The word wakash was frequently in their mouths. It seemed to express approbation, applnnset and friendship. Whenever they appearerogenitors to have belonged to the same tribe, when they emigrated into those places where we now find their descendants. Their language is, by no means, harsh or disagreeable, further than their pronouncing the k and h with a stronger aspiration, or more force than we do. 'J'hey have one sound, which is very frequent, and not used by us. It is formed in a particular manner by clashing the tongue partly against the roof of the moutli. It is diOicult to represent this sound by any composition of onr letters, unless from IszthI ; which is generally used as a termination. The next is composed of tl ; and many words end with z and ss. A specimen or two of each of these is here put down. OpulszthI - - TheSvn OnnlszthI - - The Moon . " • Kahsheeti - - - Dmd Teesheheetl - - To throw a sfove '■"■''• Koomifz - - - /I hxnnan skxiU '*'<■'' Quahmiss - - Fishrot • 1 li f 11 '1 * i ,1 I '« ^ t ,u. ^ M "■ U ' MSiiiSr §: \ th ,-|i'' •' \' ''H| 659 VOVAGB TOTf AUD8 THE NORTH POLE. ■ t ^UMMUU T.iawaclc - — - Akkia Katsitsa - - - Mo, or Moo - - Sochah - - - - Notpo - - - - Atslepoo - - - Atlaquolthl - - Tsawaquuithl — Haeeoo - - - - (fillf/ ,»li< Jf. .u ili • .,A.'«' •• ).<.• One »'■ U ..- Two Three /' ' Four Five Six Seven Eight Nitie Ten With respect to the composition of their languaji^e we can say ver^ little, having been scarcely able to distinguish the several parts of speech. We can onlv infer from their manner of speaking, which is very slow and distinct, that it has very few preposi- tions or conjunctions ; and, as far as we could discover, is destitute of even a single interjection, to express admiration or sur- prize. From having few conjunctions, it mav be conceived, that each single word, with them, will comprehend a great number of single ideas ; which seems to be the case ; but, for the same reason, the language will be defective in other respects, not having words to distinguish or express differences which really exist ; and hence not suffici- ently copious. This was observed to be the case, in many instances, particularly with res|>ect to the names of animals. The rela- tion or affinity it may bear to other langua- ges, either on this, or the Asiatic continent, we have not been able sufficiently to trace, for want of proper specimens to compare it with, except those of the Equimaux, and Indians about Hudson's Bay ; to neither of which it has the least resemblance. On the other -hand, from the few Mexican words we have been able to procure, there is the most obvious disagreement in the termina- tions of words. In Nootka Sound it is high water, in the days of the new and full moon, at twenty minutes after twelve : the perpendicular rise and fall being eight feet, nine inches ; which is to be understood of the day tides, and those which happen two or three days after the fuU and new moon. The night tides, at this time, rise near two feet liifjfher. Some circumstances that occurred daily, relating to this, deserve pai'ticniar notice. In the cove where we gut wood and water, was a great deal of drift-wood cast ashore, a part of which we had to remove, to come at the water. Now it frequently happened, thai large pieces of trees, that we had removed in the day, out of the reach of the then high water, were found by us floated again in our way the next morning ; and all our spouts for conveying water, thrown ont of their places, which were immoveable during the day-tides. We found likewise wood, which we had split up for fuel, and had placed beyond the reach of the day-tide, noated away daring the night. Some of these ciri cumstances occurred every night and morn- ing, for three or four days in the 'leight of the spring tides. To render our account of the transactions in Nootka Sound complete we must add, that by a variety of astrono- uical and nautical observations, we found its latitude to be 49deg. 36 min. 6 sec. North, and its longitude 233 deg. 17 min. 14 sec. East. It has been already related, that we put to sea on the 26th of April, in the evening, with manifest indications of an approaching ftorm ; and by these signs, we w^re not de- ceived, for we had scarce sailed out of ^he Sound, when the wind shifted from N. £. to S. £. bv E. and blew a strong gale, with s CHAP. XI. ProgriSi of the Resolution and Discovery' along the north-west coast of America ; They anchor n-ar Cape tilnchinbrook ; Behaviour qf the natives ; Progress up the sound, and departure Jrjin thence i Montague Island; Inhabitants of Prince William* t Sound described ; The twohps proceed along the coast ; Several capes named; Cook's river discovered; Lieu tnant King take possession oj the country ; His reception by the natives ; Departure qf the ships from Cook's river ; Pass St. Hermogenes, and several Capes and Islands ; Conjectures concerning a Russian letter brought on board the Discovery ; A providential escape ; The ships arrive at Oonalashka ; Description qf the harbour of Samganoodha ; Prosecution qf the voyage to the north ; Mr, Williamson lands at Cape Newenham ; his report; Bristol Bay; Extent of it ; The ships obliged to leturn by reason of the shoals ; Point Upright ; Death and character of Mr. Anderson. ] ON Friday the 1st of May, not seeing land, we steered to the N. E. having a fresh breeze at the S. S. E. attended with •quails, showers of hail and rain. About wven o'clock, P. M. we descried land, distant twelve leagues. At four o'clock the niixt morning the coast was seen S. E. to N. by W. the nearest part distant five leaofues. At the same time, the northern |x»int of an inlet, or at least what appeared 1o be one, bor^ E. by S. from whence to •■ ■ ■.,.-- li . - 3 ■ .■:■-. the northward along the coast, there seem- ed to be many bays and haibours. At six, approaching nearer to the land, we pursued the direction of it, steering N. W. by N. and between eleven and twelve we passed a cluster of small Isles, situated near the continent, to the northward of the southern eoint of an extensive bay. An arm of this av seemed to reach towards the north, betiind a round lofty mountain, that stands between it and the sea. To this emin^ucc S'} ,» i .ir* , i, ' ■;':iV 659 VOYAGE TOITARDS THE NORTH POLE, Capt. Cook tfave the name of Mount Ed^* cambe ; and the point of land projecting from it, was called Cape Edgecumbe. The Cape lies m latitude 57 deg. 3 min. N. and in long. 224 deg. E. The land, except what is contiguous to the sea. is of consi- derable height, abounding with hills. Mount Edgecumbe, which far out-tops all the rest, was entirely covered with snow, as Wx^re also the other elevated hills; but the lower ones, and the spots rising near the sea, were covered with wood. Pursuing our course to the northward, we found the coast to trend to the N. and N. E. for six or seven leagues, and there formed a spacious bay. Some Islands being in the entrance of it, we gave it the name of the Bay of Islands. On Sunday the 3rd, at half an honr past four, P. M. Mount Edgecumbe bore sonth 64 deg. E. a large inlet, N. 60 deg. E. and the most advanced point of land towards the N. W. lying under a very \oiiy mountain, which was called Mount Fair-Weather, bore N. 32 deg. west. The inlet was nam- ed Cross Sound, it being first observed on the day so marl^ed in our calendar. An eastern promontory forms the south-eastern point of this sound ; this we distinguished hy the name of Cross-Cape. Under the above-mentioned peaked mountain is a point, which was named Cape Fair-Weather. At noon, this cape was distant thirteen leagues. Having for several days l^ght breezes, we steered S. W. and W. S. W. till the morning of the fourth, when we tacked, and stood towards the shore. At noon Mount Fair- Weather bore north, 63 deg. E. This mount is the highest of a chain or ridgd of mountains, that rise at the north-western of Cross Sound, and extend towards the N. W. paraHdi with the coast. They are co- vered with snow, from the highest summit down to the sea-coast, except in a few places, where we could discern trees that seemed to rise, as it were fro.n the sea. About five o'clock, P. M« the top of a high monntain appeared above the horizon, bearing N. 26 deg. W. forty leagues d.stant. This we supposed to be the mount Elias of Commo- dore Beering. In the course of the da^.ws observed a brownish duck, with adark iiidigo head and neck; likewise several whales; por> poises, seals, &c. Having light winds.'with occasional calms, we made but little way. On Wednesday the 6th, the nearest land be- ing distant eisrht leagness, we perceived, in a north-easterly diicction, the appearance of a bay, and an Island, by its southern point covered with wood. This is probably the place where Heering anchored : Capt. Cook, therefore, in honour of the first discoverer' named it Beeriip/s bay ; southward of whicli the ridge of mountains is interrupted by a plaiti of several leagues in extent, beyond which the sight was unbounded. On I he seventh, at n«»«n, we were five leagues dis- tant from the shore ; from which station we observed a bay under the high land, with low woodland on each side of it. We now perceived, that the coast trended considerably to the west. On the ninth, at noon, Mount Elias bore N. 30 deg, E. distant 19 leagues. This stands twelve leagues inland, lat. 60 deg. 27 min. N. long. 219. deg. E. Sunday, the lOtli, we observed in lat, 59 deg. 61 min. and in long. 215 deg. 56 min. being only three leagues distant from the coast of the continent, which extended from E. half N. to N. W. h^lf W. as far as the eye. could reach. To the westward of the latter direction we saw an Island, distant SIX leagues A point, which the Commo- dore named Cape Suckling, projects towards the north-eastern end of the island : Within this cape stands a hill of considerable height, divided from the second range of mountains by low land ; so that the cape, at a distance, has Ihe appearance of an Island. A bay is seated on the north side of Cape Suckling, seemingjy extensive, and sheltered from most winds. Before night, we had ap- firoached near enough to the cape to see some ow land projecting fr6m it to the N. W. w« also observed some small Islands in the bay, and several elevated rocks between the cape and the north-eastern extremity of the Is- land. Earlv the next morning the wind shifted from N. E. toN. which being against us, the Commodore relinquished his design of going into the bay, and bore up for the west end of the Island. Havipg a calm Wm I'j ij K 1 rI,^ 1 i" '» ij v';|{ :«; ' ''' / i?:: il Mi' ,;.HtJ ^■s^; 4' ■ "V; i;?^ ^;; ;i^- #' ,t # f In ■^pfj i .•'Hk', 1 W :.^^pl '•^41 mi M mi t heside bas a tlie slii fowls the pri shags, ^uebra ( 'AND ROUND THE WOHLD. . » / mB Ijjmit fch o'clock, we embarked in a boat, 011(1 landed on tlie Island, with a view of seeing witat lay on the other side ; but find- u\g the hills to be at a greater distance than was expected, we laid aside that intentaon. 0(1 a small eminence near the shore, the (Ja|>tain left, at the foot of a tree> a bottle Containing a paper, on which' the names of oar sliips, and the date of our discovery were described : he inclosed also two silver two-penny pieces of English coin, which, with many others, had been furnished him by Dr. Kaye, now dean of Lincoln ; and in testimony of his esteem for that gentleman, Capt. Cook called the Island Kaye's Island. It does not exceed thirty-six miles in length, and its breadth is not above lour miles in any part. The S. W. point is a naked rock, ell VHted considerably. Its lat. is 59 deg. ^ nun. north, long. 216 deg. 58 min. east. Towards the sea, the Ivsland tenninates in bure sloping cliffs, with a beach consisting of large pebbles, intermixed in some places with a clayey sand. Some parts of the shore are interrupted by small valleys and gullies, in each of which a rivulet or torrent rushes down with a considerable degree of impetuosity ; lasting perhaps no longer than tlie whole of the snow is dissolved. The valleys are tilled with pine-trees ; and these, indeed, abound'.in other parts of the kland, which is covered asit were with a broadgirdle of wood. The trees, however, are far from being of an extraordinary growth : on which account, they would be of no great service for shipping, except as materials for making top-gallant masts and other small things. Neither Canadian, nor Cypress pines, are to be seen among them, but we saw some cur- rant, and hawberry bushes, a yellow flower- ed violet, and the leaves of other plants not yet in flower. A crow was seen flying about the wood : two or three white-headed eagles, like those of Nootka, were als(j observed ; besides another species, equally large, which has a white breast. In our passage from the ship to the shore, we saw a number of towls sitting on the water, or flying about ; the principal of which were gulls, burres, sha{i;s, ducks, or laHge petrels, divers, and quebrantahuesses. There was alsoajiingle bird uying about apparently of tl;e ruII kind, wliose colour was a snowy white, with some black aU»ng part of the upper sides of its wings. We saw one fo^ near a wood ; also two or three small seals were seen on the shore ; but not any traces of inhabitants could be found. In the afternoon Capt. Cool-, with those who accompanied him, returned on board ; after which we set sail, and, with a li^ht breeze from the east, we steered for the sonth-west side of the Island, which we got round by eight o'clock in the evening ; we stood for the westernmost land, now in sight. At the north-east end of Kaye's Island sliinds another, extendinsr N. W. and S. E. about nine miles, to within the same distance of the north-western boundary, to which the name of Comptroller's Bay was given. The next morning, beina;- Tuesday the Tiih, Kaye's Islandf was still in sii>ht, bearing E. by S. At noon, when in lat. 01 deg. 11 min. the eastern point of a spacious inlet bore west-north-west three leagues >iistunt. From Comptroller's Bay to this point, vvhicK the Commodore named Cape riinchinbrook, the direction of the coast is nearly K. and W. Beyond this it appeared to incliiic tovv- ards the south ; a direction very liiUlrent from that marked out in the nioiitru i v, is, founded on the late discoveries of tl.e Rus- sians ; insomuch, that we had some rcitson to expect, that we should tind, tliroi;;. Ii the inlet before us, a |)assage !o the >I anu that the land to the W, and.^). W. was a firotipe of Islands. We had no sooner r ached the in- let, than the weather became exceeding foggy ; it was therefore tho»;iiht necessary that the ships should be secured during the continuance of the fog. With this view we hauled close under Cape Hinchinbrook, and cast anchor in eight fathoms wafer, at the distance of about two furlongs from the shore. Soon after the boats w ere hoist- ed out, some to fish, and others to sound. At intervals, the fog cleared av» ay, and uave us a prospect of the neighbouring *and. The cape was one league distant ; the west;- ern point of the inlet five leagues ; and the land on that side extended lo W. hy N. Between this point and N. W. by W. we 'i '1 •' )M^^ i^-i .. . M.r \l ' • '('■■ ■' '" i, iV. ■', !" ■ \ "njijii 054 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLB, could discern no land. The mo«t westerly point we had in view on the north shore, was at the distance of two leafrnes. Betwixt this point, and the shore under which our fthips now lay at anchor, is a bay about three leagues deep, an the south-eastern side of which are several coves ; and in the middle are placed some rocky Islands. To these Mr. Gore was dispatched in a boat, in order to shoot some birds. He had scarcely reached them, when about twenty natives appeared in two large canoes ; upon which he returned to the ship, and they fol~ lowed Inm. They were unwilling, however, to venture along-side, but kept at a littl« distance, shouting aloud, and clasping and extending their arms alternately. They then began a song, much after the manner of King George's, or Nootka Sound. Their heads were strewed with feathers, and one of them held out a white garment, which we supposed was intended as a token of friendship ; while another, for near a quar-' ter of an hour stood up in the canoe, entirely naked, with his arms extended like a cross, and motionless. Their canoes were con- struci:ed upon a different plan from those of Nootka. The frame consisted of different ]aths, and the outside was formed of the skins of seals, or other animals of a similar kind. Though some of our people repeated the most common words of the language of Nootka, they did not appear to understand them. After they had received some pre- sents that were thrown to them, they retired towards the shore, intimating by signs, that they would pay us another visit the next morning. Two of them came off to us in the nignt, each in a small canoe, hoping, perhaps, they might have an opportunity of pilfering ; ror they went away as soon as they perceived themselves discovered. The wind, during the night, blew hard in squalls, with rain, and thick hazy weather. On Wednesday the 13th, at ten o'clock, A> M. the wind becoming more moderate, ^e got up our anchors, and made sail, in order to search for some convenient place where we might stop the leak, as our pre- sent situation was too much exposed for that purpose. We at first intended to have gone up the bay before which our sliips bad anchored ; but, b;^ the deafness of liie weather, we were afterwards indm^ed to steer towards the north, further up the great inlet. Having passed the N. W. point of the above- mentioned bay, we found that the coast, on that side, inclined to the eastward : we did not follow it, but proceeded on our course to the northward, for a point of land which we observed in that direction. In the after, noon, before two o'clock the foul weather returned, with so thick a fog, that we could discern no other land but the point just mentioned, off which we arrived between four and five o'clock, and found it to be a little Island, situate at the distance of about two miles from the neighbouring coast, be- ing a point of land on the eastern side of which we discovered an excellent bay, or rather harbour : to this we plied up, while the wind blew in very hard squalls, accom- panied with rnin. In passing the Island, we found a muddy bottom, at the depth of twenty-six fathoms. At length, about eight o'clock, wc were obliged, by the violence of the squalls, to cast anchor in thirteen fu- thoms water, before we had , proceeded so far into the bay as the Commodore intend- ed ; but we thought ourselves fortunate enough in having the ships already secured, for the night was exceedingly tempestuous. But, notwithstanding the weather was so turbulent, the natives were noi deterred from paying us a visit. Three of them came off in two canoes : two of them in one, and one in the other, being the number that each canoe could carry ; for they were construct- ed nearly in the same manner with those of the Esquimaux, except that in one of them were two holes for two persons to sit in, and in the other but one. The men had each a slick, about three feet long, with liie large feathers, or wintrs of birds, fastened to it, which they probably held up to us as tokens of peace. The treatment these three received, induced many others to visit us, between one and two o'clock the following morning, in both great and small canoes. Some of them ventured on board the Reso- lution, though not before some of our peo- ple had stepped iBto their boats. AmoDt; 3 r AND ROUND THE WORLD. ' the steer inlet. bove- it, (in 3 did onrse /vhich after- eather could t just 'tween » be a ' about ist, be- side of lay, or , while artHi)ute ^secured, estuous. was so ed from came off and one at each mstruct- those of of them sit in, nen had with the itened to to us as ese three visit us, olio wing canoes. e lleso- lur l>eo- th ? ;i:'*«i'?;'i ;' ■■' 1^': ^.^1 ■P \n 656 VOTAGp TOWAJlDSr VUmnOWPU i^OLE, p' m ^ opoprtnni^y of getifing higher oj> presented itself, t)ie Conunodore was determined t« Iieel the ship in our present, station ; and, with that view caused her to be moored with a ked^eancjior and hawser. One of She sailors, in heaving the anoiior out of the )>oat, was carried over-board by the buoy- rope, and accompanied the anchor to the bottom. In this hazardous situation he had presence of mind sufficient to disengage him- self, and came tip to the surface of the water, where he was immediately taken up, with a dangerous fracture in one of his legs. On Friday the 15th, at day-break, we eave our ship a good heel to port, in order to stop the leak, which, on ripping off the sheathing) was found to be in the seams. While the carpenters were employed in this liusiness, others of our people filled the wa- ter-casks at a stream not far from our sta- tion. On the 16th, towards the evening, the weather cleared up, and we then found our- selves encompi)s>sed with land. Our station was on the eastern side of the sound, in a §lace distinguished by the appellation of nug-corner Bay. The Captain, accompa- nied by some of his officers, went to take a survey oi' the head of it, and they found it to be sheltered from all winds, having a muddy bottom at the depth of seven to three fathoms. The land near the shore is low, partly woody, and partly clear : the clear ground was covered with snow, but very little remained in the woods. The summits of the hills, in the neig:hbourhood, were covered with wood ; but those that were at a greater distance inland had the appearance of naked rocks, covered with snow. Our leak being at length stopped, on the 17th, at four o'clock, A. M. we weighed anchor, and steered a N. W. course with a gentle breeze at E. N. E. Soon after we had made sail, the Americans visited ns again. When we had reached the north- western point of the arm wherein we had anchored, we observed that the flood tide came ir' the inlet, by the same channel through which we had entered. This cir- cumstance did not much contribute to the probability of a passage to the north through the inletj though it did not iual(e entirely 8 against it. Hiving past the paint iust men. tioned, w« met with much foul ground, und many sunken rocks: the wind failed us, so that we had some difficulty in extri4!!ating ourselves from the danger with which we were threatened ; however, about two o'clock P. M. we cast anchor under the eastern shore in thirteen fathoms, and four leaijues distant from our last station. The weather soon after cleared up, and we had a distinct view of all the surrounding land, particularly towards the north, where it apl peared to close. This gave us but little hope of meeting with a passage that way ; but, in order to form a right judgment. Lien. tenant Gore was sent out with two armed boats to examine the northern arm ; and, a1 the same time, the master was dispatched with two other boats, to survey another arm that seemed to incline towards* the east. Both returned at night. By the master we were informed, that the arm, to which he had been sent, communicated with that we had last quitted, and that one side of it was formed by a cluster of IslaiMls. Mr. Gore reported, '' that he had seen the entrance ot' an arm, which, he was of opinion,' extended a long way to the N. E. and that probably by it a passage might be found/' On the other hand, Mr. Roberts, one of the mateA, who had been sent with Mr» Gore to sketch out the parts they had examined, was of opinion that they saw the head of this arm. " The disagreement of these twa opinions (observes Capt. Cook) and the ciroumstHn" ces of the flood-tide entering the Sountd from the south, rendered the existence of a pas- sage this way very doubtful. And, as the wind in the morning had become favourable for getting out to sea, the Captain told iic, he resolved to spend no more time in search- ing for a passage in a p!.ce that prnniisfd so little success. Besides, if the land en the west should prove to be Islands, agreeable to the late Russian Discoveries, we could not fail of getting far enough to the nurih, and that in good time; provided we did not lose the season in searching piaoes where a pa^^sage was not only doublful, hut improbable. We were now upward of five hundred and twenty leagues westward of AND ROUND THB WORLD. 66t nen* it ml s, so iting 1 we two r the four The i had lattd, itap- i little way ; , Lieu- armed ; and, latched ler arm e east, iter we hiich he that we f it was r. Gore 'ance ot' xlended irobaMy On the f mates, » sketch was of [lis arm. tmiolis itistan- [lid from if a \m- as the durable told MS . searck- froniised Id on tl.e greeahle e could e north, we did places, Itul, h«t Id t»f tive ward of Any part of BufRn's, or of Hudson's Bay, and whatever paKsa^e there may be, it must be, or at l«ast part of it must lie to the nortb of latitude 72 deg. Who could expect to find a passage or strait of such extent T Notwithstanding the plausibility in the face of this reasoniniJ^, our readers will see, it is little more than mere conjecture ; and might we haziird our opinion against the judgment of so able a navigator, we must confess, that the latter is not coincident with his usual precision ; nor can we think his con- duct, in the above search, corresponds in all particulars with his usual assiduity. This is certain, the arm near Cape Ilinchinbrook, above alluded to, and the northern part of Hudson's Bay, lie between the same parel- lels of latitude ; and it has been the united opinion of all our most skilful navigators and geographers, that if a N. W. passage does exist, it must be through Hudson's or Baffin's ba^. As to the Russian* Discoveries, or those ot any other monopolizing, trading companies, they have been of little service hitherto to navigation, and, with respect to their credit, of very small value. It were therefore to be wished, that the report of so able an officer as Mr. Gore had been more particularly attended to ; for we think, if the desirable passage can be found, it must he in a lower latitude than 72 deg. and through some arm or strait. This is our own private opinion, and we do not wish to infringe upon the judgment of others, we wish this sacred privilege always to rennain inviolate, with every member of civil society. On Blonday, the 18th, about three o'clock A.. M. we weighed, and made sail to the {southward, down the inlet, with a light northerly breeze. We were enabled to shorten our run out to sea, by discovering another passage into this inlet, to the S. W. of that by which we entered. It is separat- ed from the other, by an Island that extends eighteen leagues in the direction of S. W. and N. E. to which our Commodore gave the name of Montague Island. In this Nouth-western channel are several Islands. Those rituated in the entrance next the open sea, are elevated and rocky. Those that lie u'ithin are low; and as they were totally 4 P free from snow, they iwere. for this reason, called Green Islands. At tw(» o'rhick, P. M. the wind veered to the S. W. by S. which put us under the necessity of plying. We first stretched over to within the distance of two miles of the eastern shore, and tuck- ed in fiflty-three fathoms. When we stood back to Montague Island, we discovered a ledge of rocks, some under water, and others above the surface. We afterwards met with some others towards the middle of the chan- nel* These rocks rendering it dang.rous to ply during the night, we spent it in standing otf and on, under Montague Island ; for the depth of water is so great, that we could not cast anchor. The next morning, at break of day, we steered for the channel between the Green Island and Montague Island, which is between two and three leagues in breadth. About eight in the evening, we had a perfect calm ; when we let go our an- chors at the depth of twenty-one fathoms, over a muddy bottom, distant about two miles from Montague Island. After the calm had continued till ten o'clock the suc- ceeding morning, a slight breeze sprung up from the north, with which we again weigh- ed and made sail. Having got out into the open sea, by six in the evening, we discovered that the coast trended W. by S. as far as the eye could reach. To the place we had just left the Commodore gave the name of Prince WiU liam's Sound. It seems to occupy, at least, one degree and a half of latitude, and two degrees of longitude, exclusive of the branches or arms, with whose extent we are unacquainted. The natives, in general, are of a middling stature, though many of them are under it. They are square, or strong chested, with short, thick necks, and large broad visages, which are, for the most part, rather flat. The most dispro portioned part of their body appeared to be their heads, which were of great magnitude. Their teeth were of a to14lvble whiteness, broad, weH set, and equal in, size. Their noses had full, round points, turned up at the tip ; and their eyes, thongli not small, were scarcely proportioned to the largeness of their fares, They have black hair, strong, straight, and ^■■t ■'■'■• :*'^ ■ GoS VOYAGE TOWAllDS THE NORTfl POLE, tliick. Their beards, were in general thin, or deficient ; but the hairs growing about the lips of thos0r who have them, were bristly or stitf, and often of a brownish co- lour. Some of the elderlv men had large, thick, straight beards. The variety of their features is considerable. Very few, however, can be said to be handsome, though their countenance usually indicates frankness, vivacity, and good nature ; and yet some of them shewed a reserve and sullenness in their aspect. The faces of some of the wo- men are agreeable ; and many of them, but principally the younger ones, may easily bti distinguished from the other sex, by the superior softness of their features. The com- plexion of some of the females, and of the children, is white, without any mixture of red. Many of the men, whom we saw nak^d, had rather a swarthy cast, which was scarcely the effect of any stain, it not being 9 custom among them to paint their bodies. Both sexes, young and old, of this sound, are all clothed in the same manner. Their ordinary dress is a sort of close frock, or rather robe, which sometimes reaches only to the knees, but generally down to the ancles. It has, at the upper part a hole just sufficient to admit the bead, with sleeves reaching to the wrist. These frocks are composed of the skins of various animals, and they are commonly worn with the hairy side outwards. Some of the natives have their frocks made of the skins of fowls, with only the down left on them, which they glue upon other substances. The seams, where Vhe different skins are sewed together, are usually adoni«d with fringes or tassels of narrow thongs, out out of the same skins. A few have a sort of cape or collar, and some have a hood ; but the other is the most customary form, and appears to con- stitute the whole of their dress in fair wea- ther. When it is rainy, they put over this jinother frock, made with some degree of iugiuuity from the intestines of whales, or some oJlier large animal, prepared wilh snch RkilLas lo tesf-mble, in ^reat measure, our {>ed, in a great measure like a dagger, with a ridge towards ihe middle. These they wear in sheaths of skin, hung by a thong round their necks, under their robe or frock. It is probable, that they use them only as weapons, and that their other knives are applied to differ- ent purposes. Whatever they have, is as well made as if theyM'ere provided with a complete chest of tools ; and their plaiting of sinews, sewing, and small-work on their little bags, may be found to vie with the neatest manufuctures in any part of the globe. Uii(>n the whole, considering the iin<^ivi1ii^ed state of the natives of this i^und. their northerly situation, amidst n country almost continually covered with snow, and the comparative wretched materials they have to work with, it appears, that with re- spect to their skill and invention, in all ma- nual operations, they are at least upon a footing with any other people in the Islands of the great Pacific Ocean. The animal food, we saw them eat, u as either roasted, or broiled : they feed also on dried fish. Some of the former that was purchased, had the appearance of bear's flesh. They likewise eat a larger sort oj fern-root, either baked, or dressed in some oilier method. Some of our company ob- served them to eat freely of a substance, which we imagined was the interior part of the pine bark. Their drink, in all proba- bility, is water ; for, in their canoes, they brought snow in their wooden vessels, which they swallowed by mouthfuls. Their man- ner of eating is decent and cleanly, for they constantly took care to remove any diit that might adhere to their food: and (hoiioh they would sometimes eat the raw fat of a sea animal, yet, they did not fail to cut it carefully into mouthfuls. To all appear- ance, their persons were always free from filth ; and their utensils, in general, were kept in excellent order, as were also their boats. The language of these people seemed diffi. cult to be understood ; this, perhaps, was not owing to any confusion, or indistinctnefit ill their sounds, but to the various significa- tions which their words bear: for they fre- quently made use of the same word on dit- fierent occasions ; though, probably, if we. could have had a longer intercourse with them, this might have proved a mistake on our part. On Wednesday the 20th of May, having took our departure from Prince Willianr's Sound, we directed our course to the S. W. with a gentle breeze. This was succeeded by a calm* at four o'chvck, the next morn- ing, which was soon f«ll»\vfd by a bref/e from the S. W. This veering to the N. W we continued to stretch to 8.' W uiul paswd a lof^y promontory, in tlie latitude of .',0 deg. 10 e, till two o'clock, A M. of the ^jtli, when a breeze springing up, we steer- ed along the coast, and perceived that the land of Cape St. Henoongeiies was an Is- land, about six leagues in circumference, 5 separated from the coast by a channel, one league in breadth. Some rocks are to be sffen above water to the north of this Island ; and on the N. E. side of the rocks, we had from thirty to twenty fttthoms water. At noon, St. Hermongcnes bore S. E. distant eitiht leagues ; the land to the N. W. ex- tending from S. half W. to near W. In this last direction, it ended in a low point, •earned Point Banks. The ship was, at this time, ill latitude 58 deg. 41 mm- longitude 207 deg. 44 min. In this station the lirtid was in sight bearing N. W. which, it Was thoutfht, co^nnected Cape Elizabeth with this S. W. land. When we approached it, we observed it was an unconnected group oi high Islands and rocks ; and from the nakedncFS of their appearance, the Captaiti named them the Barren Isles: they are si- tuated in latitude 59 d<>g. three leagues dis- tant from Cape Elizabeth, and tive fl'orh Point Banks. It was our intention to have passed through oneo^'thechannels'by which these Islands are divided ; but a strong cur- rent setting against us, we went to leeward of them all. The weather, which had been thick and hazy, cleared up towards the evening, when we perceived a very lofty promontory, whose elevated summit appear- ed above tlie clouds, forming two exceeding high mountains. Capt. Cook named this firomontory Cape Douglas, in honour of his friend Dr. Douglas, canon of Windsor. It is situated twelve leagues from Point Banks, and ten tothe westward of the Barren Isles; in latitude 58 deg. 56 min. and longitude 206 deg. 10 mill. Between this point and Cape Douglas is a large deep bay, which, from our observing some smoke upon Point Banks, received the name of Smoky Bay. At day break on the 26th, being to the north- ward of the Barren Isles, we discovered more land, extending from Cape Douglas to the north. It consisted of a chaiiri of very high mountains; one of which, being much more conspicnous than the rest, obtained the name of Mount St. Augustine. Having a flesh gale we stood to the N. W. till eight, when we found, that what we had supp«>sed to be Ii^iands were summits of mountains, connected by the loWei^ land, This was : M ■it •■ i. f :' "AH m VOYAGE TOU AHJJS ilir: NOIITII POLK, covered wholly with snow* from the tops nt' the luuiintains clown to the kea-beach ; and had ill every other respect, the appeuraitce ot'u great continent. Capt. Cook was now fnjly convinced, that no passage could he discovered by this inlet ; and his continuing to explore it was more to satisfy others, than to confirm his own opinion. At this time Mount St. Augustine bore N. W. distant three leagues. It is of a conical figure, and rises tu a prodigious height ; but wliether it be an Island, or part of the continent, is not yet ascertained. Perceiving that nothing «vas to be done to the west, we stood over to Cape Elizabeth, under wliich we fetched at about five in the afternoon. Between Cape Elizabeth and a lofly promontory, which was named Cape Bede, is a bay, wlierein we might have anchored ; but, the Captain having no such intention, we tack- «d and stood to the westward, with a very strong gale, accompanied with rain and liazy weather. Next morning the gale abat- ed, and about three o'clock in the afternoon, the weather cleared up ; Cape Douglas bearing S. W. by W. and the depth of water being forty fathoms, over a rocky bottom. From Cape Bede the coast trend- ed N. £■ by E. with a chain of mountains inland, in the same direction. We had now the mortification to discover low land in the middle of the inlet, extending from N. N. E. to N. E. by E. but as it was sup- posed to be an Island, we were not much discouraged. On Thursday, the 28th, A. M. having imt little wind, the ship drove to the southward, and in order to stop her, we dropped a Uedge-anclior, with an eight inch hawser. But, in bringing the ship up, we lost both that and the anchor. However, we brought the ship up, with one of the bowers, and .spent a considerable part of the day in sweep- ing for them, but without etTect. We were r.ow in the latitude of 59 deg. 51 min. the low land extended from N. E. to S. E. the nearest part distant two leagues ; and the land on the western shore about seven leagues. A strung tide set to the southward, out of the inlet ; it was the ebb, and ran almost four knots in an hour. At ten o'clock it was low water. Though ||,( water had become fhick, and resembled that in rivers^, we were encouraged to proceed, by finding it as salt as in the ocean, even at low wpter. Three kn«»ls was the strengil) of the flood tide ; and the stream conlinupd to run up till four in the anernocm. At eight o'clock in the evening we stood up the inlet, to the north. Soon after the wind veered to this quarter, and blew in squalls, attended with rain ; but this did not hinder us from plying np while the flood continued, which was till llie next morning at near five o'clock, when we anchored sbont twu leagues from the eastern shore ; and onr la- titude was 60 (leg. 8 min. Some low land, which we su|>posed to be an Island, lay under the western shore, distant between three and four leagues. The weather clear- ing up, a ridge of mountains appeared ; and two columns of smoke were visible on the eastern shore. At one o'clock A- M. we weighed, and plied up under double reefed top-sails, having a strong gale at N. E. On Saturday the dOth, the gale havini; much abated, we plied up from two o'clock A. M. till near seven, and then anchored under the shore to the eastward, in nineteen fathoms water. At noon two canoes, with a man in each, came off' to the ship, nearly from that part where we had seen the smoke the day before. They resembled stronply those we had seen in Prince William's Sound, both in dress and person: their ca- noes were also constructed m the same man- ner ; and one of them had a large heard, and a countenance like the common sort ot people in the Sound. When the flood made, we weighed, stood over to the western shore, and fetched under a bluflf point to the N. W. This, with the point on the oppo- site shore, contracted the breadth ot the channel to about four leagues, through which a prodigious tide ran. It had a ter- rible appearance, and we were ignorant whether the water was thus agitated by tlie stream, or by the dashing of the waves against sands or rocks. We kept the wes- tern shore aboard, that appearing to he the safest. In the evening, about eight o'clock, we anchored under a point of land» beams AND UOUM) Till'. Vt ORLD. CO'i 1^. E- distant about three leugnes, ami' lay ttiei'u diirini^ llie ehl). Till we arrived at tills station, tite water retained an equal deforce of saltness, both at hig^ti and low water, and was as salt as that which is in the ocean : but now the appearances of a river evidently displaced themselves. The water, taken up at this ebb, was much fresher than any we had tasted ; whence we concluded that we were in a large river, and nut in a strait, which had a communication with the northern seas : but, having proceed- ed thus far, Capt. Cook was anxious to have stronger proofs ; therefore, on the 31 sf, in the morning, we weighed with the flood, and drovtt up with the tide, having but little wind. Near eight o'clock, many of the na- tives, in one large ranoe, and several small ones, paid us a visit. The latter had only one person on board each ; but the larger ones contained men, women, and children. We bartered with them for some of their fur dresses, made of the skins of animals, par- ticularly those of sea-otters, martins, and hares, also salmon, halibut, and a few of their darts; for wliicli, in return, we gave them old clothes, hends, and pieces of iron. These last they cull guone ; but in general, their language is nearly the same as that used in Prince William's Sound. At nine o'clock, we anchored in sixteen fathoms water, almost two leaitrues from the western shore, the eidt being nlready began. It ran hut three Knots an hour at its greatest itrensih, and fell, after we had anchored, twenly-one feet u\Mn a perpendicular. In order to determine the direction, and other purlieu !ars respecting the inlet, Capt. Cook dis|)utclied two bo: ts, and vvhen the flood tide made, fullowetl them with the two ships; but after driving about ten miles, we anchored, having a dead calm, and strong tide against us. At the lowest of the ebb, the water at and near the surface, was per- fectly fresh, though retaining a considerable degree of saltness, if taken above a foot below it. Besides this, we had other con- vincing proofs of its being a river, such as thick mud^y water, low shores, trees, and rubbish of various kinds, floating backward ««d forward with the tide. "In the afternoon we received another visit from the native% who bartered largely with our people, with- out so much as attempting one dishonest action. On Monday the 1st, of June, at two o'clock, A. m. the master, who commanled the two boats, returned, informing us that he found the inlet or river contracted to one league in breadth, and that it took a nor- therly course through low land on each .side. He advanced about three leagues through this narrow part, which he found from twenty to seventeen fathoms deep. While the stream ran down the water w as perfectly fresh, hut it become brackish when it ran up, and more so near high water. Three leagues to the northward of this search, the master discovered another separation in the eastern chain of mountains, through which he supposed it probable, the river ran in a direction N. E. but this was thought by the Captain to be only another branch, and that the main channel continued in a nor- thern directicm between the two chains oi mountains. The pleasing hopes of finding a passage were no longer entertained ; but as the ebb was spent, we took tlie advantage of the next tide to get a closer view of the eastern branch : in order to determine whe- ther the low land on the east was an Island ornot. For this purpose we weighed with the first of the flood, and stood over for the eastern shore. At eight o'clock a breeze sprang up in a direction opposite to our course, so that we despaired of reaching the entrance of the river. By reason of this un* toward circumstance, two boats were dis- patched, under the command of Lieutenant King, to make such observations as might enable us to furm some tolerable idea of the nature and course of the river. About ten o'clock, th? Resolution and Discovery anchored in nine fathoms water. The Com- modore obnerving the strength of the tide to be so powerful, that the boats could not make head against it, made a signal for them to return, before they had proceeded halfway to ilie entrance of the river. J'he only knowledge concerning the grand ques- tion, obtained by this tide's work, was, that s^ll the low land, which we bad imagined f, .1,1 s> 00a VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NOllTII POLE. fo bo }\n Island , was one contirued tract from tlie great river to the foot of the moun- liiins, terminating at the south entrance of this eastern brunch, which the Commodore denominated the river Tnrnagain. The low land begins aa^ain en the north feide of this river, and extends from the foot of the mountains^ to the bank of the g[reat river, fortninju: before the river Turnagain a large bay. Having entered this, the dood set very strong into the river, the water fall- ing twenty-feet upon a perpendicular, from ^hich circumstances it was evident, that a passage was not to be expected by this side the river,any more than by the main branch : "but, as the water at ebb, though much fresher, retained a conlied down the river with a gentle AND ROPND THR WORLD. eak' Itreeze at south ; when, by the inattention of the man at the lead, our ahip strnck upon a ppearance, are scattered alonjj the coast between here and Point Banks. At eight in the evening, St. Hermogenes extended from S. half E. toS. S. E. und tlie rocUs lK»re S E. distant three miles. Abi nt midi iij;-ht we pas.sed the rocks, and brre i)|> to the southward i and ou the 7th, aj nno^ ^ -1 • % JL 0«35 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, St. HermogenesboFcN. distant four !eap:ues. The sonthernniost point of llie main land lay N. half W. five leagues distant. The latitude of tfiis promontory is 58 de^. 15 inin. and its longitude 274 deg'. 21 loiu. It was named after tlie day in ou. calendar, Cape Whitsunday ; and a iarge bay to the west of it was called Whitsuntide IJay. At midnight we stood in for the land, and at seven in the niominy- of the 8th, we were within four miles of it, and less than two miles from sojne sunken rocks, beariui^f W. S. W. Here we anchored in tliiity-iivo fa- thoms water. To the Mesl of the bay are some small Islands. To the soutiivvard the sea coast is low, with projecting rocky points, having small inlets between them. We vere now in the latitude of 57 deg. 52 min. 34 sec. Tl»eland here forming a point, it was named Cape Greville, in lat. 57 deg. 33 min. long- 207 deg. 15 min. distant frojn St. Hermogenes fifteen leagues. On the iHh, 10th, and 11th, we continued plying up the coast. On ^riday the 12th, in the evening the fog clearing up, we descried land twelve leagues distant, bearing W. and we stood in tor it early the next morning. At no i an elevated point, which we called Cape JJarnabas, in lat 57 deg. 13 min. bore N. N. E. distant ten miles. The point to the S. W. had an elevated summit, which termi- nated in two round hills, and was therefore railed Two-headed Point. At six in the evening, being about midway between Cape Barnabas and Two-headed Point, a point of land was observed bearing 8.69 deg. W. On t!ie fourteenth, at noon, we observed in lat- 56 deg. 49 min. The land seen the pre- ceding evening, now appeared like two Is- lands. We were 'ip with the southern part of it the next morning, and pv°rceived it to be an Island, which we nameu Trinity Is- land. It lies in lat. 56 deg. 33 min. long. '205 deg. distant from the continent three leagues, between whi< h, rocks and Islands are inters[)eised. In the evening, at eight, we were within a leaj^ue of the small Is- lands. The westernmost point of the con- tinent, now in view, we called Cape Trinity, it being u low point facing Trinity Island. 2 Having reason at this time to expect foggy weather, we stretched out to sea, and pass- ed t\vf» or three rocky Islots near the «ra«t end ot Trinity Island. This we weatherrd, and isi tiM jf'ttrnoon steered west-southerly, with a sale at S. S. E. No land app^Hrntg on Monday the 15tli, at noon, and the gal« and fog increasing, we stet-red W N. \V, under such sail as we ctuild haul the wU.ii withf; sensible ot ihe dansrer of running \,e^ fore a strong u'ale, in the vicinity of an un-* known coast and in n ijuck fog It was hovi over become necessary to run some ri»k, wheii the wijnl was favourable to us ; as w« were convincid that clear weather was ge- nerally accompanied with westerly v*inds. On Tuesday, the 16th, at tour o'lock. A. M. the fog being now dispersed, we found ourselves, in a manner, surrounded with land. The extreme of th: m. at N. £. was a point of land we h? . . through the fog, Jand was therefore named Fogffy Cape. It is situated in latitude 56 deg ;U min. About nine o'clock, we discovered the land to be an Ishind, nine miles in cir- cumference, in lat 56 deg. 10 min. lon^. 202 deg. 45 min. we named it Foggy IslaiK?: and we supposed, from its situation, that it is the Island on which Reering had bestow- ed the same appellation. Three or four Is- lands bore N. by W. A point, with pinna- cle rocks upon it, bore N. W. by W. called Pinnacle Point; and a cluster of Islots, S. S. E. about nine leagues from the coast. On the 17th, at noon, tiie continent ex^'jul- ed from S. W. to N. by E ; the neait ■ •; t distant seven leagues: at the same ('!. !ii». from the continent, a group of Islands v t seen to the j\. W. On the ISth, we hiiu clear, [deasant weather, and it was a calm the greatest part of the day. One of our people, on board a boat dispatched to the I}iscovery, shot a most beautiful bird. It is smaller than a duck, and the colour is black, except that the fore- part of the head h white : behind each eye, an elegartt yellow- ish-white crest arises: the bill f^d feet are of a reddish colour. The firs. >'' these birds were seen to the southward uf <.\'ij)e St. Ilermogenes ; after which we saw them daily, and fre ed these Islands, to be delivered to any oi his countrymen wh(» should arrive ; and that the natives supposing us to be Russians, had brought off the note. In consequence of this opinion, the Captr in ordered sail to be made, and we steered westward. At midnight, we beheld a vast flame ascend from a burning mountain, and observed se- veral fires within land. On Saturday, the 20th, at two o'clock A. M. some breakers were seen, distant two miles ; others appeared a head ; On our larboard side they were innumerable ; and also between us and the land. We cleared them, though with difficulty, by holding a southern course. These breakers were produ- ced by rocks, many of which were above wa- ter : they are very dangerous, and extend seven leagues from land. We got on th« outside of them about noon, when we ob- served in latitude 54 deg. 44 min. longitude 1 98 derr. The nearest land was an elevated bluff point, which we called Rock Point. It bore N. distant eisrht leagues ; and a hiirh round hill, called Halibut Head, bore S W. distant thirteen leagues. On the 2Ist# :-|A m ''i(*:i"i 668 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, Halibut Island extended from N. by E. lo N. W. This Island is seven leas^ues in circumference, and except the head, is very low and barren. We were kept at such a distance from the continent, by the rocks and breakers, that we had but a very im- perfect view of the coast between Halibut Island and Rock Point. We could how- ever, perceive the main land covered with snow ; particularly some hills, whose elevat- ed tops towered above the clouds to a most stupendous hei(;ht. A volcano was seen on the most south-westerly orthe.<;e hills, which perpetually threw up immense columns of black smoke: it is at no great distance from the coast, annis water, about four miles distant from the shore; during which time, we were visited by a man in a small canoe, who came from a large Island- When he drew iifar to the ship, he uncovered his head and bowed, as the other had done the preceding day, when he came off to the Discovery. It appeared very plain to us, that the Rus- sintis had some communication with these people, not only from their politeness, but from an additional proof that we now were favoured with : for our new visitor had on a |)air of green cloth breeches, and a Jacket t)f black cloth, under the frock of his own country. He had with him a grey fox skin, and some fishing implements : also a blad- der, wherein was some liquid, which we supposed to be oil : he opened it, drank a mouthful, and then closed it up again. His canoe was smaller than any one of those we bad seen before, though of the same con- struction : like others who bad visited the Discovery, he used the double- bJaded pad- dle. His features resembled those of the natives of Print.e William's Sound, but he was perfectly free from any kind of paint: and his lip had been perforated in an ob- lique direction, but at this visit he had nat any kind of ornament in it. Many of the words frequently used by the natives of the Sound, were repeated to him, but he did not seeni to understand any of them, owinji either to his ignorance of the dialect, or our erroneous pronunciation. On M(»nday the 22nd, the wind shifted to the S. E. and, as usual, was attended with thick rainy wea- ther. In the evening, fearing we might lull in with land, we hauled to the southuard, till two the next morning, and then bore away west ; yet we made but little way. At five o'clock P. M. we had an interval dj sun-shine, when we saw land bearing N. oj) deg. W. On Wednesday, the 24th, at six o'clock A. M. we saw the continent ; and at nine it extended from N. by E. to S. W. by W. the nearest part distant four lea^Mies. The next morning we had clear weather, insomuch, that we clearly saw the volcano, the other moiratains, and all the main land under them. A large opening was likewise seen between several Islands and a point oi the land. We now steered to the southward; when, having got without all the land in sight, we steered west, the Islands lying in that direction. By eight o'clock we had passed three of them, all of a good heip[lit ; and more were now observed to the west- ward. In the afternoon, the weather be- came gloomy, and afterwards turned to a mist, the wind blowing fresh at east ; we therefore hauled the wind to the s(>uth\vard till day break, on Friday the 26th, when we resumed our course to the west. We de- rived but little advantage from day-Ii^iit, the weather being so thick that we could not discover objects at the distance of a hundred yards ; but as the wind was mode- rate, we ventured to run. About half an hour after four, the sound of breakers alarmed us on our larboard bow. . We brought the ship to, and anchored in twenty- five fathoms water. The Discovery who was not far distant anchored also. Some AND ROUND THE WORLD. aco iionrs after, llie fop: beinj? a little dispersed, we discovered the imminent danger we Ir.ul escaped. We were three quarters of a mile from the N. E. side of an Island : twoelevat- eA rocks were about half a leatfne from ns, and from each other. Several breakers also appeared about them ; and yet Providence had safely conducted the ships throuuh in the dark, between those roc'ks, whicii we should not have attempted to have done in !i clear day ; and to so commodituis an an- chorins-place, which, on account of our miraculous escape, received the name of Providence Bay, During the night, the wind blew fresh at south, but in tbe morning was more moderate, and the fog, in a great measure dispersed. At seven o'clock, we weighed, and steered between the Island near which we iiad anchored, and a small one not far from it. The breadth of the channel does not exceed a mile, and the wind failed before we could pas^ through it. We were therefore glad to anchor in »31 fathoms water. Land now presented itself in every direction. That to the south ex- tended, in a ridp:e of mouutuns, to the 8. W. which we afterwards found to be an Is- land, called Oonalashka. Between this, and the land to the north, wliich we supposed to be a group of Islands,^ there appeared to he a channel in a N. W. direction. On a point, west from the ships, and at a distance ot three quarters of a mile, we perceived several natives and their habitations. To this place we saw two whales towed in, u!;- h we supposed had just been killed. A few of the inhabitants came otf, at different times, to the ships, and engaged in a little Irartic with our people, l)nt never continued with us above a quarter of an hour at a time. They seemed, indeed, remarkably s!iy ; though we could readily discover they wt'ie not unacquainted with vessels, similar, in some degree to ours. Their address ex- pressed a degree of politeness which we had never experienced among any of the savage tiit)es. Being favoured, about one o'clock, P. M. with a lijfht breeze, and the tide of tloml, we weiyihetl, and «kirt, made of the gut of a whale, or some otliei- large sea- anitnal. V ler this he had an<«tlier of the same form, made of the skins ol birds with the feathers tui, curiously seweci l(Ji;ctlier ; the feathered side placed next the skin* C70 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, It was [>a(cl:e. E. distant five leagues. As we advanced we discovered a connected chain of land. At noon we perceived that it extended from r^. S. W. to E. the part nearest to us being' nt the distance of five leagues. We nnw ob- served in lat. 55 deg. 21 min. long, 195 dct;. 18 min. E. At six o'clock A. M. vvesniiiul- ed and found a bottom of black sand, at llie depth of forty-eight fathoms. xM iUla time AND ROUND THE WORLD* 071 tve wpre four lefigues from the land, and its eastern part in sight was in the direction of E. S. E. to ajjjieai ance an elevated round hillock. Oh Saturday \he 4lh, at eight o'clock, A. M. we saw the coast from S. S. \\\ and E. I)y S. and at intervals we could discern liiuh liMui behind it, covered with snow. Sixui ai'tt'r we Inul a calm, when all hands were employed in fishing ; and as our peo- ple were now put on two thirds allowance, wli.it < aril cutched he might eat or sell. Foilnnrite for theuj, thty caught some tons of'tiJie tish, which proved a most seasonable siif'ply ; for the slri|>'s provisions, were with siilt au(i maggots eating into the beef and potk, and the ratsiutd the weavils devouring the heart of the bread, the one was little better than putrid flesh, and the other, upon breaking, would crumble into dust. Among the tish we caught with hook and line, were a trreat number of excellent cod. At noon we had an easterly breeze and clear weather, when we were about six leagues from the land, which extended from S. by W. to E. S. and the hillock, seen the preceding evening, bore S. W. by S. nine leagues dis- tant. A great hollow swell convinced us, tliiit there was no nuiin land westward near us. At six o'clock, P M. we steered a north- pi'ly course, when the wind veering to the S. E. enabled us to steer E. N. E. Tlie coast liiy in this direction, and the next day, at ii()(»n, was four leagues distant. On the 6th, and 7fh, we made but little way, the wind being northerly. On Wednesday, the 8th, tlie coast extended from S. S. W. to E. by N. and '-was all low land, and it is not im- probable that this extends to a considerable distance towards the S. W. and that those idaces which we sometimes supposed to be iiilels or bays, are nothing more than val- leys between the mountains. This day we hooked plenty of fine cod. On Thursday the 9th, in the morning, liiivin? a breeze at N. W. we steered E. by N. in order to make a nearer approach to Hie coast. At noon we observed in latitude h' deg. 49 min. long. 201 deg. 33 min. E. at tlie distance of two leagues from land, which was observed to extend from S. by E. to N. E. being all a low coasi, with points jivo- jecting in several places. In advancing towards the N. E. we had found that the depth of water gradually decreased, and the coast trended more and more northerly ; but we observed the ridge of mountains be- hind it continued to lie in the same direc> tion as those that were more westerly ; so that the extent of the low land between th« coast and the foot of the mountains insensi- bly increased. Both the low and high grounds, were totally destitute of wood ; but apparently covered with a green turf, the mountains excepted, which were covered with snow. As we proceeded along the coast, with a light westerly breeze, the water shoaled gradually from fifteen to ten fa- tiioms, though we were eight or ten miles distant from the shore. About eight o'clock in the evening a loftj^ mountain, "which had been some lime within sight, bore S. E. by E. distant t\yenty-one leagues. Several other mountains, forming thn same chain, and much farther distant, boj- E. 3 deg. N. The ^oast was seen to extend as far as N. E. half N. where it seemed to terminate in a point, beyond which it was both our hope and expectation that it would assume a more easterly direction. But not l(mg after- ward we perceived low land, that extended' from behind this point, as far as N. W. by W. where it was lost in the horizon ; and behind it we discerned high land, appearing in hills detached from fach other. Thus the fine prospect we hnd of getting to the northward, vanished in an instant. Wa stood on till nine o'clock, and then the point before-mentioned was one league distant, bearing N. E. half E. Behind the point is a river, which, at its entrance, seemed to b& a mile in breadth. The water appeared somewhat discohmred, as upon shoal ; but a calm would have^iven it a similar aspect. It seemed to take a winding direction, through the extensive flat which lies be-> tween the chain of mountains towards the S. E. and the hills to the north-westward. It abounds, we apprehend, with salmon, as many of those fish were seen leaping before the entrance. 'J'he mouth of this river, which we distinguished by the name of 6TS VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NOllTH POLE, Bristol River, lies in Int. 58 deg. 27 min. and in lonsj. 201 dep. 55 min. E. On the 10th, at day-break we made sail to the W. S. VV. with a light breeze at N. E. At eleven u'ciock A. M. thinking^ that the coast towards the N. W. terminated in a point, bearing N. W. by W. we steered ior that 'point, having orderen the Discovery to keep a-head ; but before that vessel had run a mile, she made a signal for sh<»al water. At that very time we had the depth of seven fathoms, yet before we could get the head of our ship the other way, we had less than five; but the Discovery's soundings were less than four fathoms. W"e now stood back three miles to the N. E. but observing a strong tide setting to the W. S. W. in a di- rection to the shoal, we brought the ships to anchor in ten fathoms, over a sandy bot- tom. Two hours after the water fell up- wards of two feet, which proved that it was the tide of ebb that came from Bristol River. In the afternoon, the wind having shifted to the S W. we weighed at four o'clock, and made suil towards the S. having several boats a-head employed in sounding. When we had passed over the south end of the shoal, in six fathoms water, we afterwards got into fifteen fathoms, in which we let go our anchors again between eight and nine in the evening ; some part of the chain of niountuins on the soutn-eastern shore being in sight, and bearing S. E. half 8. and the most westerly land on the other shore 'bear- ing N. W. In the course of this day we had descried high land which bore N. 60 deg. W. On Saturday the 11th, at two o'clock A. M. we weighed anchor, with a gentle breeze at S. W. by W. and plied to wind- ward till nine, when judging the flood tide to be against us, we anchored in twenty-four fathoms. At one o'clock P. M. the fog, that had this morning prevailed, dispersing, and the tide becoming favourable, we weigh- ed and plied to the soiith-westward. To- wards the evening we had some thunder. We had heard none before from the time of our arrival on this coast, and what we now heard was at a great distance. In the morn- ing of the 13th, we steered a N. W. course, 8 and at ten o'chick saw the continent. At noun it extended from N. E by N. to N. N. W. quarter W. and an elevated hill appear- ed in the direction of N. N. W. distant ten leagues. .This we found to be an Island, to which, on account of its figure. Cant. Cook gave the name of Round Island. It is situ- ated in the latitude of 58 deg. 37 min, and in longitude 200 deg. 6 min. E. distant from the continent seven miles. At nine in the evening, having steered a northerly course to vyithin three leagues of the shore, we tack- ed in fourteen fathoms; the extremities of the coast bearing S. E. half E. and W. We stretched along shore till two the next morn- ing, when we suddenly got into six fatlioms water, being at the same time two leagues from shore. After we had edged off a little, our depth of water gradually increased, aiirl at no«)n we sounded in twenty fathoms Round Island at this time bore N. 5 des?. E. and the western extreme of the coast N. 10 deg. W. It is an elevated point, and hav- ing calm weather while we were off it, for this reason it was named Calm Point. On the 14th, and 15th, having little wind, we advanced but slowly. At times a very thick fog came on. Our soundings were from twenty-six to fourteen fathoms. We had pretty good success in Hshing, for we canglit plenty of cod and some flat fish. On Thursday the 16th, at five o'clock A. M. the fog clearing up, we found our- selves nearer the shore than we expected. Calm Point bore N. 72 deip. E. and a fioint about eight leagues from it, in a westerly direction, bore N, 3 f\eg. E. only three miles distant. Between these two points the coast forms a bay, in several parts of which the land could scarcely be seen from the mast- head. Another bay is on the north-western side of the last-mentioned point, between it and a high promontory, which now bore N. 30 deg. W. at the distance of sixteen miles. Al)Out nine o'clock the Commodore dispatch, ed Lieutenant Williamson to this promon- tory, with orders to go ashore and ol)serve what direction the coast took beyond it, and' what might be the produce of the country , which, when viewed from the ships, had but a sterile appearance. We here found I: AND ROUND THE WORLD. 673 the flood-tide settinof strongly towardi the N. \V. along the coast. At noon it was high Wiiter, and we cast anchor at the distance of twelve miles from the »hore, in twenty- four fathoms Abont live in the atliernoon, the tide betjfinninQ: to niakt? in our t'uvonr, we weighed, and drove with it, there being no wiuil. When Mr. WilUanison returneo, lie re|K»rled that he had landed on the point, nnd having ascended tiie most elevated hill, found that the most distant part of the coast ill sight was nearly in a northerly direction. He took possession of the country in the name of his Britannic Majesty, and left on the hill a bottle containing a paper, on which tJie names of our ships and of their com- niunders, and the date of the discovery, wtrc inscribed. The promontory, which he named Cape Newefdiam, is a rocky point, of consi- derable height, and is seated in latitude 58 deg. 42 Riin. and in longitude 197 deg. 36 inin. E. Over, or within it, two lot\y hills arise one behind another, of which the in- nermost, or easternmost, is the higliest. The country, as far as Mr. Williamson could discern, produces not a single tree or shrub. The hills were naked, but on the lower frounds there grew grass and plants of vari- 0US kinds, very fnw of which were at this tine m flower. The Lieutenant met with no other animals tlmn a doe with her fawn, mid a dead sea-horse or cow that lay on the beach : of the latter animals we had seen a I (tiisit (arable numl>er from the ships. Cape Newenhain is the northern bo-undarjr of the I'xtciixive gulph or bay, situated before the rver Bristol, whieh, in honour of the Admi- ral, Earl of Bristol, received from the Com- modore the rlislinction of Bristol Bay. Cape Ouneemak forms the southern limit of this lny, and is eighty-two leagues distant, in file direction of S. S. W. from Cape Newen- liiin. At eight o'clock in the evening, v»e steered to the N. W. and N. N. W. ronnd the ca|>e, which at no- ened to seventeen fathoms, Ca[>e Neweiibani was twelve leajrues distant, bearing S. J) i\eQ. E. the north-eastern extremity of the land in stght, bore N. 66 deg. E. and the distance of the nearest shore was four leagues. ')ur Intitude was 59 deg. IG inin. N. Befor* e o'clock the )>oats a-head displayed the ^- nal for shoal-water. They had only two fathoms ; but at the same time the ships were in six. By haiding more to the north, we continued nearly in the same depth till between five and six o'clock, when our boats finding less and less water, Capt. Cook mmie the signal to the Discovery, which was then a-head, to cast anchor, and both ships soon came to. In bringing up the Resolution, her cable parted at the clinch, so that we were obliged to make use of the other an- chor. We rode in six fathoms water, over a bottom of sand, at the distance of about five leagues from the continent. Cape New- enham now bore 8. distant sixteen leagues. The farthest hills we could perceive towanis the north, bore N. E. by E. and low land stretched out from the in'lH'ii- sive, that, if we continued llns course, we sii()iil() tiieet with less water, we hauled to the siMilh. I'his course Urou^ht us gradu- ally into eif^hteeii fathouis water; upon which we ventured to steir a little westerly, and afterward* due west, when went length found twenty-six fathoniR. At noon, Uy ob- servation, we were in lat. 6S deg. 7 niiu. lonar. lf)4 dej?. 22 min. east. We now steer- e^day the 30th, at four o'clock P M, Pomt Upright bore N. W. by N. distant six leagues. A lip;ht breeze now springing up at N. N. W. \v« steered to the north-east- 3 ward (ill foiir \hc iu\f inorpiiitr, whrn the wind veered to the east ; we then tacked, and stood to the N. W. The wind, not long after, shifting to S. E. we steered N. K. by N. and continued this course with soundings, from Ihirty-tive to twenty fathoms, till noon the following day. {Saturday, August the 1st, we observed in lat. G(| ileg. 58 min. long. 191 deg. east. The wind now becoming north-easterly, we first made a stretch of about ten leagues to- wards the N. W. and then, as we observed no land in that direct-on, we stood back to the E. for the space of fourteen or fifteen leagues, and met with a considerable quan- tity of drift-wood. On the 2nd, we hud va- riable light winds, with showers of ram the whole day. In the morning of Monday, the .*Jrd, we resumed our northward courae. At noon, by observation, our lat. was (»2 deg. 34 min. long. 192 deg. E, Between three and four o'clock this afternoon, Mr. Anderson, Capt. Cook's surgeon of the Reso- lu^on, expired, after he had lingered under a consumption upwards of a twelvemonth. He was a sensible, intelligent young man ; an agreeabje companion ; ha(i great skill in his profession ; and had acquired a consi- derable portion of knowledge in other branches of science. Our readers will doubt- less have observed, how useful an assistant he had proved in the course of this voyage ; and had it pleased God to have prolonged his life to a later period, the public might have received from him such communica- tions on the various parts of natural history o( the several places he visited, as would have abundantly shewn he was worthy of a higher commendation than we have here given him. His funeral was performed with the usual ceremonies at sea ; after which Mr. Law, surgeon of the Discovery, was re- moved into the Resolution, and Mr. Samwell, the surgeon's first mate of the Resolution, was appointed to succeed Mr. ^Law as sub- geon of the Di^scove^y. n. t 1 »'.^< ; •. '? •!■ Wf.t U » . ' I ; 1 1 . f CHAP. XII. An Island named to the memoty of the ingenious Mr. Anderson, Capl. Cook's late surgeon, deg. 5 min. N. the longitude 191 deg. 10 min. E. our soundings wt^re twenty-eight fathoms; and our position .nearly in the middle i^^'^hc channel, between ^ V < , it I 678 VOYAGE TOVVAilDS THE NOIITH POLE, M- thf two c'oasts, each being at the distance of snow, and apparently destitnte of vood about seven leagrues. From this station we We now larked, and boie away N. W. by steered to the eastwaid, in order to make a W. but, in a short tin.e afterwards, 'Ijjcj; A •^.. . w weather, with rain, cemina: on, and the wiiH increasing, we hauled more to tlie westward. Saturday the 15th, at two o'clock A. M, the wind veered to S. W. by S, and blew a strong" gale, which abated towards noon. We now stood to the N. E. till six the next morning, when we steered rather more east- The nearest part of erly : in this run, we met with several sea- W. twelve leagues horses, and great numbers of birds ; some of nearer approach to the American coast. In this course, the water gradually shoaled ; and tliere being very little wind, and all our en- defi;. 41 min. E. The time-keeper, for the peared, which we supposed was a continu- ation of the continent. It extended from E. by S. to E. by N. and, not long afterwards, we descried more land, uearing N. by IC. Coming rather suddenly into thirteen fa- thoms watir, at two in the afternoon, we made a trip off till four, when we again stood in for the land ; winch, soon after, we saw, extending from N. to S. E. the nearest part being at the distance of three or four leagues.* The coast here forms a point, nam- wards, the sight of an enormous mass of i "c, ed by us Point Mulgrave, which is situated in the latitude of 67 deg. 45 min. N. and in same tnne, gave 198 deg. In the forenoon, we perceived a brightness in the northern horizon, like that reflected from ice, usually called the blink. Little notice was taken of it, from a supposition that it was impro- bable we should so soon meet with ice. 1'lie sharpness of the air, however, and gloominess of the weather, fvr the two or three preceding days, seemed to indicale some sudden change. About an hour after- the longitude of 194 deg. 51 min. E. The land seemed to be very low near the sea, but a little farther it rises into hills of a mo- left us no longer in any doubt respectiajti; the cause of the brightnessof the horizon. Be> tween two and three o'clock, we ticked close to the edge of the ice, in twenty-twi> fathoms water, being then in the latitude of derate height; th« whole was free from 70 deg. 41 min. north, and unable to stand AND ROUND THE WORLD. 079 on any farther, for the ice was perfectly im- the south westward. After making a short penetrable, and extended from W. by S. to board to the north, Capt. Cook made a sig- El, by N, as far as the eye could reach, nal for the Discovery to tack and his ship Here we met with great numbers of sea- tacked at tlie same time. The wind proved Jiorses, some of which were in the water, but in some measure favourable, so that we lay far more upon the ice. The Commodore up S. W. and S. W. by W. had thoughts of hoisting out the boats to Wednesday the 19th, at eight in the kill some of these animals; but, the wind morning, the wind veering to west, we tack- freshening, he gave up the design ; and we ed to the northward; and at twelve, the (.oiitinued to ply towards the south, or rather latitude was 70 deg. 6 min. north, and the towards the west, for the wind came from longitude 190 deg. 42 min east. In this si- tliat quarter. We made no progress ; for, tuation, we had a considerable quantity of at twelve on the 18th, our latitude was 70 drift ice about our sitips, and the main ice (leg. 44 min. north, and we were almost five was about two leagues to the north. Be- leagues farther to iU-d east. We were, at tween one and two, we got in with the edge present, close to the edge of the ice, which of it. It was less compact than that which was as compact as a wall, and appeared to we had observed towards tlie north ; but it be at least ten or twelve feet in height : but, was too close, and in too large pieces to farther northward, it seemed to be much attempt forcing the ships through it. We higher. Its surface was exceedingly rugged, saw an amazing number of sea-horses on and, in several places, we saw po«»ls of wa- the ice, and as we were in want of fresh pro- ter upon it. We now stood to the south, visions, the boats from each ship were dis- and, after running six leagues, shoaled the patched to procure some of them. By seven water to seven fathoms ; but it soon increas- in the evening, we had received, on board ed to the depth of nine fathoms. At this the Resolution, nine of these animals ; which time, the weather, which had been hazy, till this time, we had supposed to be sea- becoming clearer, we saw land extending cows ; so that we were greatly disappointed, from S. to S. E. by E. at the distance of particularly some of the sailors, who, on ac- three or four miles. The eastern extremity count of the novelty of the thing, had been iornis a point, which v/as greatly encumber- feasting their eyes for some days past. Nor ed with ice, on which account it was distin- would they now have been disappointed, gtiished by the name of Icy Cape. Its nor have known the difference, if there had latitude is 70 deg. 29 min. north, and its not been two or three men on board, who longitude 198 deg. 20 min. east. The other had been iii Greenland, and declared what extreme of the !and was lost in the horizon ; aninvals these were, and that no person ever aiid we had no doubt of its being a continu- eat of them. Notwithstanding this, we made ationof the continent of America. The Dis- them serve us for provisions, and there were covery being about a mile astern, and to few of our people who did not prefer them leeivard, met with less depth of water than to our salt meat. The fat of these animals we did ; and tacking on that account, the is, at first, us sweet as marrow ; but, in a Commodo'e was obliged to tack atso, to pre- few days, it becomes rancid, unless it is vent separation. Our present situation was salted, in which state it will I . ep much very critical. We were upon a lee-shore longer. The lean flesh is coarse and black- in shoal water ; and the main body of the ish, and has a strong taste; but the heart is ice to windward, was driving down upon us. almost as well tasted as that oi" a bullock. It was evident, that if we C(uitinued mnrh The fat, when melted, affords a goodquan- lonjter between it and the land, it would tity of oil, which burns very well in lamps ; force us ashore, unless it should chance to and their hides, which are of great thickness, take the ground before us. It appeared al- were extremely useful about our rigging, most to join the land to leeward, and the The teeth, or tusks, of most of them were, only direction tliat was free from it was to at this time of a very sinall size ; even some, I ,^^ M / f 680 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, of th« Inrcrest nixl nidest of tliese animals, ifind tliem notexceedincr half afoot in lrti{;th. Hence we conolnded, that Ihey had lately shed Iheir ohl teeth. They lie upon the ice in herds of many hundreds, huddling like swine, one over the other; and they roar very U)ud ; so that in the nigiit, or when the weal her was fotrgy, they gave ns notice of t\ e vicinity of the ice, hefore we conid dis- cern it. We never found the whole herd sleeping, some of them being constantly upon the watch. These, on the approach of the Imat would awake those that were next to them ; and the alarm being thus gradually communicated, the whole herd would presently be awake. However, they were seldom in a hurry to get away, before they had been once fired at. Then they would fall into the sea, one oyer the other in the utmost confusion ; and, if we did not happen, at the first discharge, to kill those we tired at, we generally lost them, though mortally wounded. They did not appear to IIS to be so dangerous as some authors h&:ve represented them, not even when they were attacked. They are, indeed, more so, in appearance, than in reality. Vast multi- tudes of them would follow, and come close up to the boats ; but the flash of a musket in the pan, or even the mere pointing of one at them, would send them down in a mo- ment. The female will defend her young^ one to the very lust, even at the ex|)ence of her own life, whether upon the ice or in the water. Nor will the young one quit the dam, though she should have been killed ; •o that, if yon destroy one, you are sure of the other. The dam, when in the water, l)oldv h» r yoniiff one between her fore fins. Mr. Pennant, in hisSynopiss of Quadrupeds, has given a very good description of this animal umier the name of the Arctic Wal- rus. Why it should be called a sea-horse, is difficult lo determine, unless the word be a corrupticm of tbe Russian name Morse ; for they do not in the least resemble a horse. It is, doubtless, the same animal that is ^nnd in the Gulph of St. Lawrence, and tbcrt called a sea-row. It is certainly more likeaeuw than a horse; but this resemblance Mntists in nothing but the Rnunt. In short 8 it is an animal not unlike a seal, but incoin. parably larger. The length of one of them, which was none of the largest, was nine feet four inches from the snout to the tail • the circumference of its body at the shoulder! was seven feet ten inches ; its circumference near the hinder fins was five feet six incli-es and the weight of the carcase, without the head, skin, or entrails, was eight hundred and fifty-four pounds. The head weitrhcd forty-one poimds ai»d a half, and the skin two hundred and five pounds. It may not be improper to remark, that, for some days before this time, we had often seen Hocks of ducks tlying to the south. They were of two species, the one much larger than the other. The larger sort was of a brown co- loiM- ; and of the small sort, either the duck or drake wns black and white, and the other brown. Some of our people said that they also saw geese. This seems to indicate, that there must be land to the northward, where these birds, in the proper season, find shelter for breedJDg, and whence they were now on their return to a warmer climate. After we had got our sea-horses on hoard, we were, in a manner, surrounded with the ice ; and had no means of clearing it, h«t by steering to the southward, which we did till three o'clock the next morning, with a light westerly breeze, and, w general, tliirk. f«ggy weather. Our soundiii^s were (Voui twelve to fifteen fathoms. We ih: n taikcl and stood to the northward till ten o'clock, when the wind shifting to the N. we stodii to the W. S. W. and W. At two in iJin afternoon, we fell in with the main ice, and kept along the edge of it, being partly direct. ed by the roaring of the sea-horses, for \v( had an exceeding thick g. Thus we con. tinned sailing till near midnight, when we got in among the loose pieces of ice 'J'lie wind being easterly, and the fog very thick, we now hauled to the southward ; and, at ten the next morning, the weather clearins up, we saw the American continent, extend- ing from S. by E. to E. by S. and, at noon, from S. W. half S. to E. the distance of the nearest part being five leagues. We were at present in the latitude of m deg. 32 min. N. and in^the longitude of 195 i\tg. 48 njin, AND ROUND THE WORLD. 681 K at;(l, as t!ir main i.e was not far from us, it is evident, tliul it now covered a part of the fn"A ; which, a few days before, had been free from it ; and that it extended farther towards the S. than wliere we first fell in with it. During the afternoon we had but little wind ; and the master was sent in a boat to observe whether there was any cur- rent, but he found none. We continued to steer for the American land till eight o'clock, in order to obtain a nearer view of it, and to search for a harbour ; but seeing nothing that had the appearance of one, we again siood to the N. with a gentle westerly breeze. At this time, the coast extended from S. W. to ii. the nearest part being at the distance of four or tive leagues. Ihe southern ex- trt'me seemed to form a point, to which the name of Cape Lisburne was given. It is situate in the latitude of G9 deg. 5 min. N. and in the longitude of 194 de|^. 42 min. E. and appeared to be tolerably high land, even down to the sea ; but there may be low land citder it, which we might not then see, being not less than ten leagues distant from it. In almost every other part, as we advanced to the north, we had found a low coast, from which the land rises to a moderate height. The coast now befcire us was free from snow, except in one or two places, and had a green- ish hue. But we could not disr^rn any wood u|)on it. Saturday the 22nd, the wind was southerly, auid the weather for the most part fofrary, with some intervals of sunshine. At tight in the evening, we had a calm, which con tiaued till midnight, when we heard the surtfe of the sea dashing against the ice, and liad many loose pieces about us. A light breeze now arose at N. £. and the fog being very thick, we steered to the S. to get clear of the ice. At eight the next morning, the foe: dispersed, and we hauled towards the \V. for the Commodore finding we could Dot get to the N. near the coast, by reason of the ice, resolved to try what could be done at a distance from it ; and as the wind seemed to be fixed at N. he considered it as a favourable opportunity. In our progress to the westward, the water gradually deep- tnetl to twenty»eight fatUoms. With the 4 S northerly wind ihe air was sharp and cold ; and we had foiss, sun- shine, showers of snow and sleet alternately. On the 26fh, at ten in the morning, we fell in with the ice. At twelve, it extended from N. W. to E. by N. and seemed to be thick and compact. We were now, by observation, in the latitude of()J)deg. 30 min N. and in the longitude <»f 184 deg. E and it appeared that we had no better prf>sjH-<'t of getting to the N. here, than nearer the shore. VVe continued steer- ing to the W. til! five in the afternoon, when we were, in some dei?ree, embayed by the ice, which was very close in the N. W. and N. E. qnaiters, with a great quantify of loose ice about the edge iti' the main body. At this lime, we had baffling light airs, but the wind soon settled at S. and increased to a fresh gale, accompanied with showers of rain. We got the tack aboard, and stretch- ed to the E. as this was the only direction in which the sea was free from ice. Thursday the 27th, at four o'clock, A. M. we tacked and stood to the westward, and at seven o'clock in the evening, we were rli>se ifl with the edge of the ice, which lay E. N. E. and W. S. W. as far in each of those di- rections as the eye could reach. Tliere be- ing but little wind, Capt. Cook went with the boats, to examine the state of the ice. He found it consisting of loose pit c< s, of va- rious extents, and so close together, lii f he could scarcely enter the rmed at sea. For, not to insist on the improbability of such prodiuious masses floating out of rivers, none of me productions of the land were foniui v;(»rporated, or mixed with it; which would certainly have been tlie case, if it had been formed in rivers, either great or small. The pieces of ice that formed the outer ed -e of the main body, were from forty to fin yards in extent, to four or five ; and the Captain judged, that the larger pieces reach- ed thirty feet or more, under the surface of I: m ■ ■!'■;■■! I ■■ 082 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. the water. He also thought it highly im- probable, that this ice could have been the production of the preceding winter alone. He was rather inclihed to suppose it to have been the production of many winters. It was equally improbable, in his opinion, that the Httle that now remained of the summer, could destroy even the tenth part of what now exsisted of this great mass ; for the fiun had already exerted upon it the ful! force and influence of his rays. The sun, indeed, according to his judgment, contri- butes very little towards reducing these enor- mous masses. For though that luminary is above the horizon a considerable while, it seldom shines out for more than a few hours at a time, and frequently is not seen for se- veral •successive days. It is the wind, or rather the waves raised by the wind, that brings down the the bulk of these prodi- gious masses, by grinding one piece against another, and by undermining and washing away those parts which are exposed to the surge of the sea. This was manifest, from the Captain's observing, that the upper sur- face of many pieces had been partly washed away, while the base, or under part, conti- nued firm for several fathoms round that which appeared above water, like a shoal round a hiijh rock. He measured the depth of water upon one, and found that it was fif- teen feet, so that the ships might have sailed over it. If he had not measured this depth, he would have been unwilling to believe, that there was a sufficient weight of ice above the surface, to have sunk the other so much below it. It may thus happen, that more ice is destroyed in one tempestu- ous season, than is formed in several winters, and an endless accumulation of it is prevent- ed. But that there is constantly a remaining store, will be acknowledged by every one who lias been upon the spo,. A thick fog, which came on while ihe Commodore was thus employed with tlie boats, hastened him aboard sooner than he could have wish- ed, with one sea-horse to each ship. Oiir party had killed many, but could not wait to bring them off. The number of these animals, on all the ice that we had seen^ is really astonishing. We spent the night o standing olf and on, among the drift ice, and at nine o'clock the next morning, the fog having in some degree dispersed, boats from each of the ships were dispatched for sea-horses ; for our people by this time be- gan to relish them, and those we had before furnished ourselves with, were all consum- ed. At noon, our latitude was 69 deg. 17 min. N. our longitude 183 deg. E. and our depth of water was 25 fathoms. At two in the afternoon, having got on board as many sea-horses as were deemed sufficient, and the wind freshening ,at S. S. E. we hoisted in the boats, and steered to the S. W. Jjut beings unable to weather the ice upon tliis tack, or to go through it, we made a board to the eastward, till about eight o'clock, then resumed our course to the S. W. and were obliged before midnight to tack again, on account of the ice. Not long afier, llie wind veering to the N. W. and blowiny;' a stiff gale, we stretched to the S. W. close hauled. Friday the 29th, in the morning, we saw the main ice towards the N. and soon after, perceived land bearing S. W. by W. In a short time after ^his, more land was seen, bearing W. It shewed itself into two hill!--, resembling Islands, but soon the whole ap- peared connected. As we made a nearer approach to the land, the depth of water decreased very fast, so that, at twelve o'(;lock when we tacked, we found only eight fa- thoms ; being three miles from the coast, which extended from S. 30 deg. E. to N. CO deg. W. the latter extremity terminating' in a bluff point, being one of the hills men- tioned before. The weather was now very liazy, with drizzling rain ; but, soon after- wards it cleared up, particularly to the southward, westward and northward. This enabled us to have a tolerable view of the coast ; which resembles, in every respect, the opposite coast of America ; that is, low land next the sea, with higher land farther back. It was totally destitute of wood, and even of snow ; but was, probably, covered with a mossy siiijstance, that gave it a brownish hue. Til the low ground that lay between the sea .sud the hiyh land, was a lake, ex- tending to the soiith eastward firther than ^h AND ROUND THE WORLD. fiRS , we saw 3n after, V. In a vas seen, wo liills, hole ap- ii nearer of water e o'clock eight la- le roast, to N. 60 lating ill Us men- now very on after- to the •d. This vv ot the 5|)ect, the low land ler back. (I even of J with a brownish ht'tweeii lake, ex- her than we conld see. As we stood off, the most Vvesterly of the two hills above incntione? deg. 45 min. N. al)Out three leagues from the conti- nent ; and is distinguished in the chart by the appellation of Barney's Island. The inland country rhout this part abounds with hills, some of which are of a considerable elevation. The land in general was covered with snow, except a few spots on the coast, which still continued to be low, but some- what less so than farther towards the W. During the two preceding days, the mean hei&:ht of the mercury in the thermometer had been frequently below the freezing point, and in general, very little above it ; insomuch, that the water in the vessels upon deck was often covered with a sheet of ic*i. i m. AM ; ! : '} ■ ■ ■1^ 1, m i. i t'i'V \M ;f i III; |! f- 684 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORFH POLE, We continued to steer S. S. E. almost in the the opposite coast of America. The preak si direction of the coast, till five o'clock in the depth we met wiMi, as we ranged along ir afternoon, when we saw land bearing S. 50 was twenty-three fathoms. During the de^gy weather, the sound- of the coast. We hauled up for it without ings are no bad ^uide to th(»se who sail ulon- delay ; and at ten in the evening, being either of these coasts. On the 2nd, at eiy l" a-breast of the eastern land, and doubtful of in the morninjr, the mo'^t advanced lamJ to weathering it, we tacked, and made a board the south-eastwavd, boie S. 25 deg. E. aiul, towards the W. till after one o'clock the from this partionlar pi»int of view, had an next morning. insular appearance. IJut the thick sho»veis Tuesday, the Ist of September we again of snow that fell in quick succession, and made sail to the E. The wind was now settled on t!ie land, concealed from our si<^iit very unsettled, continually varying from N. at this time a great part of the coast. In a to N. E. Between eisiht and nine, the east- short time after, the sun, which we had not ern extremity of the huid was at ihe distance seen for near five days, broke out diirin (i'T (i« c-. 3 min. N. an«t ti.u ,'licre ; and this is likewise the case on the Tschukotskoi Nosi; : niy in the lat. i.i AND ROUND THE WORLD. eattst >ng it, £ the lound- along- [ eij^lii uitl to I. uiul, lad an liovvers n, and ir sight . In a ad uut iii'Z the which 36 freed sight of inected. air .\vas (lometer s some- t twelve S. Ca|)e I leagues he tnost J in our igs were ce of the out two fan" and long the ves aud 75 deg. N. and extends it somewhat to the eastward of this cape. But Capt. Cook was of opinion that he had no good authority for so doingf. Indeed his own, or rather Desh- neiTs account of the distance between the river Anadir and the Noss, cannot well be reconciled with so northerly a position. For he says, that with the most favourable wind, a person may go by sea from the Noss to the river Anadir in three whole days, and thatthe journey by land is very little loiit|ei'. But Capt. Cook, having hopes of visiting these parts again, deferred the discussion of this point to another opportunity. In the mean time, however, he concluded, as Beer- ii)g had done before him, that this was the easternmost pointof all Asia. It is a penin- sula of considerable elevation, joined to the continent by a very low and apparently narrow isthmus. It has next the sea, a steep rocky cliff, and oft' the very point are several rocks resembling spires. It stands in the long, of 190 deg. '22 niin. E, ;.d in the lat. of 66 deg. 6 min. N. and is thirteen leagues distant, in the direction of N. 53 deg. W. from Cape Prince of Wales, on the coast of America. The land about this nro- inontory consists of valleys and hills. The former terminate at the sen in low shores, and the latter in steep rocky points. The hills appeared like naked rocks ; l)ut the valleys, though destitute of tree or shrub, were of a greenish hue. Having passed the Cape, we steered S. W. half W. towards the northern fioint of St. Lawrence's Bay, in which our ships had anchored on the' iOth, of August. We reached it by eight o'clock the following morning, and saw some of the natives at the place where v.e had before seen them, as well as others on the opposite side of the bay. Not one of them, however, came off to us, which was rather remarkable, as the weather was. suliicienlly favourable, and as those whom we had lately visited had no reason to be displeased with ns. These people are certainly the Tscliut.ski, whom the Kussians had not hitherto subdued; though it is manifest that they must carry on a traffic with the latter, either dire-tly, or by the interposition of some neighbouring nation ; as their being in possession of tite spontoon« we saw among them, cannot otherwise be accounted for. The Bay of St. Lawrence is, at the entrance, at least five leagues in breadth, and about four leagues deep, growing; narrower towards the bottom, where it seemed to be pretty well sheltered from the sea winds, provided there is a com- petent depth of water for ships. The Com- modore did not wait to examine it, though he was extremelj^ desirous of finding a con- venient harbour in those parts, to which he might resort in the succeeding spring. Bui he wi.shed to meet witli one where wood might be obtained, and he knew that none could be found here. From the southern point of this bay, which is situated in the late, of 65 deg. 30 min. N. the coast trends W. by S, for tnespaceof altout nine leagues, and there seems to form a deep bay or river ; or else the land in that part is so low that we could not discern it. In the afternoon, about one o'clock, we saw what was first supposed to be a rock, but it was found to be a dead whale, which some Asiatics had killed, and were then towing ashore. They seemed to endeavour to conceal themselves behind the tish, in order to avoid being seen by us. This, however, was unnecessary, for we proceeded on our course without taking notice of them. On the 4th, at break of day we hauled to the north-westward, for the purpose of gaining a nearer view of the inlet .seen the day before ; but the wind, not long after, veering to that direction, the design was abandoned ; and steering towards the S. along the coast, we passed two bay.s, each about six miles deep. The n»<)st northerly one is situate before a hill, which is rounder than any other we had observed upon the coast. There is an Island lying before the other bay. It is a matter of doubt whether there is a sufficient depth of water for ships in either of these bays, as when we etlsed in for the shore, we constantly nitt will' shoal water. This part of the c<»untry i.s extremely naked and hiliy. In scv« raj places on the lower grounds, next tlie sea. were the habitations of the natives, weuv ail of which were erected stages of lioius. like those before-mentioned, i'his day, ai iiooiw ■m '■''■ '■.. ■ C86 VOYAGE JOWAKDS THE NOimi POLE. our at. wasC4ldep. 38min,N. and ourloiif?. tliat aitirle, of which we began to stand in 188 deff. 15 inin. E. the nearest part' of the great need. With this view he steered over shore was at the distance of three or four for the coast of America ; and the next day, leiijroes ; and the most sonthern point of the abont five o'clock in the afternoon, land was continent in si^'ht, bore S. 48 de^^ W. IJy seen bearina: S. three <|uarters E. which we this time the wind had veered to the N. and imagined was Anderson's Island, or some iilew a lifflit breeze ; the weather was clear, other laud near it. On Sunday, the (jtli, ;it and the air sharp. The Commodore did fonr in the mornini?, we Iiad a sight ol" Ww not think proper, to follow the direction of American coast, near Sledi^e Island ; iin,| the coast, as he perceived that it inclined at six in the evenini? of the same day, tliat westward towards the gnl|)h of Anadir, into Island was at the distance of abont ten which he had no motive for going. He leagues, bearing N. (> deg. E. and the most tlierefore steered a southerly course, that he easterly land in view bore N. 49 deg. E. If might have a sight ef the isle of St. Law- any part of what ('apt. Cook had conjt (- rence, uhich haroach ; but they re- reconcile his observations with Mr. Staehhn's sisted all our tokens of amity, and kept at map of the New Northern Archi|)elago ; the distance of a quarter of a mile. We and he could find no other method of ac- therefore left them, and proceeded along tJie counting for so iniMortant a difference, than coast. The next morning at one o'clock, by riU|)posing that he had mistaken some observing that the water shoaled pretty fast, l)art of wliat Mr. St-dehlin denominates the we anchored in ten fathoms, and remained Island of Alaschka for the continent of in that situation till day-light came on. America, and had missed the channel by We then weighed, and pursued our course which they are separated. But even on along the coast, which trended E. and E. that supposition there would still have been half S. At seven o'clock in the evening we a considerable variation. The Captai„i con- were abreast of a point, situated in the long, sidered it as an affair of some consequence of 197 deg. E. and in the laf. of 64 deg. 21 to clear up this poipt during the present min. N. beyond which the coast assumes a season, that he might have only one object more northerly direction. At eight tiiis in view in the following one. And as these point, which received the appellation of northerly Islands were said to abound with Cape Darby, bore S. 62 deg. W. the most wood, he had some hopes if he should find northern land we had in vie'v, bore N. 02 fbeiN, of procuring a competent supply of deg. £. and the distance of the nearest part 6 AND ROUND THE WORLD. (W: i^ 111(1 ill i over :t (lay, id was cli we some (>tli, lit or llu' ; i\\u\ y, that Mit ten e most E. It coiijcc- I) I'onti- Alascli- icli (;ase IWfen it lids the st fallen no loss r\\\\i up t o'clock Uproaoh 85 I'U"^, and the (te^-. E. .r K. N. I) shore, 111, came order to they re- kept at le. We donf? the o'clock, etty last, •eiiiaiueci laiiie on. nr course . and E. eiiin}? we the long. 4 deg. 21 ssumes a i«»lit this ation of the most re N. 32 uest part of the sliore was one league. In this situa- tion we let p:o onr anchorsiii thirteen fa^.hom»« over a inu(idy bottom. On Wednesday the 9th, at break of day we weighed, and made sail along the ccast. We now saw land, which we supposed to be tvvo Islands ; the one bearing E. the other 8, 70 deg. E. Not long afterwards wt i'onnd ourselves near a coast covered with \v( od ; a pleasing sight, to which we had not been lately accustomed. As we advanc- ed northward, land was seen in the direction of N. E. half N. which proved a continua- tion of the coast, upon which we now were ; we likewise perceived high land over the islands, apparently, at a considerable dis- tance beyond them. This was imagined to he (he continent, and the other land the isle of Alaschka ; but it was already a matter of doubt, whether we should discover a pas- sage between them, for the water gradually shoaled, as we proceeded further toward the N. In consequence of this, two boats were dis|)atched a-head to sound ; and the Com- modore ordered the Discovery, as she drew the least water, to lead, keeping nearly in the middle channel, between the coast and the most northerly Island. In this man- ner we continued our course, till three o'clock in the afternoon, when, having pass- ed the Island, our soundings did not exceed three fathoms and a half, and the Resolu- tion once brought the mud up from the bot- tom. In no part of the channel could a •^neater depth of water be found, though v;e liad sounded it from one side to the other ; we tlierefore deemed it high time to return. At this time a head-land on the w*?stern shore, to which the name of Bald-head was given, was about one league distant, bearing N. by W. The coa^t extended beyond it as far as N. E. by N. where it appeared to terminate in a point ; behind which the coast of the high land that was seen over the Islands stretched itself. The shore on the western side of Bald-head, forms a bay, in the bot«»ii» of which is a beach, where we perceived many huts of the natives. We continued to ply back during the whole ni[>ht, and by day-br*eak on the 10th, had deepened our water six fathoms. At nine o'clock, when we were about thre«i miles from the W. shore, C-apt. Cook, accompa- nied by Mr. King, went with two boats in search of wood and water. Tliey landed in that part, where the coast projects into a blutl'head, composed of perpendicular strata of a dark blue rock, intermixed with glim- mer and auartz. Adjoining to the beucli is a narrow border of land, which was at Ibis time covered with long grass, and where they observed .some angelica. The ground beyond this, rises with some abruptness ; towards the top of this elevation they found an heath, that abounded with berries of va- rious kinds : further onward the conntry was rather level, and thinly covered witli small spruce trees, birch, and willows. Tliey saw the tracks of foxes and deer upon tbt' beach, in many parts of which, there was a great abundance of drift-wood : there was also no want of fresh water. Onr gentkujen an(l their attendants having returned on board, the Commodore had thoughts of bringing the ships to an anchor here ; but the wind then shifting to N. E. and blowing latht i on this shore, he stretched over to the op- posite one, expecting to find wood there likewise. At eight in the evening, we an- chored near the southern end of the most northerly island, for such we then imagined it to be. The next morning, however, ue found that it was a peninsula, coniucted with the cfMitinent by a low isfhnins, on each side of which u bay is formed by the coast. We plied into the southernmost of these bays, and cast anchor again about twelve o'clock, in five fathoms water, over a muddy bottom ; the point of the peninsula, to whi(^ the name of Cape Denbigh was given, being one league distant, in the direc- tion of N. G8deg. W. We observed on ihe peninsula, several of the natives, and one of them came off in a small canoe. Capt Cook gave this man a knive and some beads, with which he appeared to be well pleased ; we made signs to him to bring us some provisions, upon which he instantly ?uitted us, and paddled towards the shore, fappening to meet another man coming offi who had two dried salmon, he got thein from him; and when he returned tu our '■n. ': il ff; N t" ('It Rili G88 VOYAGE TO;v AKDS THE NORTH POLE, t ►?!:■?> 5hi[» he refused to give them to any body except C3apt. Cook. Some of our people fancied, that he asked for him under the name of Capitane ; but in this thev were j)erhaps mistaken- Others of the inhabitants came oft* soon afterwards, and gave us a (ew dried fish, in exchange for such trifles as we h:id to barter with them. They shewed no dislike for tobacco, but they were roost de- sirous of knives. In the afternoon, Mr. Gore was dispatched to the peninsula, to procure wood and water ; of the former of which articles we observed great plenty lipou the beach. At the same time a boat from each of the ships was sent to sound round the bay ; and at three o'clock, the wind freshening at N. E. we weighed an- chor, and endeavoured to work further in, but that was quickly found to be impracti- cable, by reason of the shoals which extend* ed entirely round the bay, to the distance of upwards of two miles from the shore, as the officers who had been sent out for the pur- pose of sounding reported. We therefore stood oft* and on with the ships, waiting for Lieutenant Gore, who returned about eight o'clock in the evening, with the launch load- ed with wood. He informed the Commo- dore, that he had found but little fresh- water, and that the wood could not be procured without difficul.y, on account of the boats urounding at some distance from the beach. As this was the case, we stood back to the other shore, and the next morn- ing at eight, all the boats and a detachment of men witlr an officer, were sent to get wood from the place where Capt. Cook had land- ed on the 10th. After having continued for some time to stand off and on with the ships, we at length cast anchor in less than i^ve fathoms, at the distance of half a league from the coast, whose southern point bore S. 26 dee;. W. Cape Denbigh was about twenty-six miles distant, bearing S. 72 deg. E. Bald-head was nine leagues off, in the direct on of N. (>0 deg. E. and the Island near the eastern shore, S. of Cape Denbigh, nanifd by Capt. Cook. Besborough Island, was fittten ler.gues distant, bearing S. 52 deg. E. This being a very open road, and therefore not a secure station tor the ships, 8 the Commodore resolved not to wait tiij our stock of water was completed, as that would take up some time ; but only to furnish both ships with wood, and afterwards to seek a more commodious place for the former article. Our people carried off the (irift. wood that lay on the beach, and perfornif(( that business with great expedition ; for, m the wind blew, along the shore, the boats were enabled to sail both ways. In tli« afternoon Capt. Cook went on shore, and took a walk into the country, which in those parts where there was no wood, abounded with heath, and other plants, several ot which had plenty of berries, all ripe. Scarce a single plant was in flower. The under- wood, su'^h as birch, alders, and willows, occasioned walking to bt^ very troublesome among the trees, which were all spruce, and none of which exceeded seven or eight inches in diameter ; but some were observ€d lying (ui the beach, that were above twice that size. All the drift-wood that we saw in these northern parts was fir. Sunday the l?th, a family of the natives came near the spot where our people were occupied in taking oft* wood. The Captain saw only the husband and wife, and their child, besides a fourth person, who was the most deformed cripple he had ever seen. The husband was nearly blind« and neither he, nor his wife, were such Well-looking people as many of those whom we had met with on this coast. Both of them had their lower bps perforated ; and they were ni pos- session of some glass-beads, resembling those we had seen before among their neighhoitrs. Iron was the article that pleased them most. For four knives which had been formed out of an old iron-hoop, the Captain obtained from them near four hundred pounds weiudit offish, that had been lately cjugiit by them. Some of these were trout, and others were, with respect to size and taste, somewhat between a herring and a mullet. The Cap- tain give a few beads to the child, who wag a female; upon which the mother immedi- ately burst into tears, then the father, next after him the cripple, and at last, to add the finishing stroke to the concert, the child her- self. This music, however, was not of long le natives iple were Captain and their was the ir seen. neither il-looking I had met Ihail their re ui pos. ||ing those ighiiuiirs. lein most, rntetl out obtained ids weitiht by tliein. eis were, loni^'what I'J'he Cap- whn was iniin^'di- her, next o add the child her- t of long A^-n noiJNi) Tin: world. r.8j) ,'Mration. ^fr. Kinpf had on the preceding ilay been in company uilli the same family. Ilis account of titis inlcrview is to the follow- ini? purport : While hf attended the wood- ier party, a canoe iilkd with natives ap- ptouclied, out of which an elderly man and vvoinan (the husband and wife above-nien- (inufd) canje ashore. Mr. King presented » sn:' Before night, on Sunday the 131 1^, we had amply furnished the ships with wood, and had conveytd on hoard about a dozen tons of water to each. Oji the-Hth.a party was detached on shore to cut brooms, and like- wise the branches of spruce-trees for brew- inig beer. About twelve o'clock all our peo- ple were taken on board, for the wind fresh- ening had raised .so heavy u surf on the beach, that our boats could not continue to land without extreme difficulty ani the boat. In consequence of this. Mr. Kini,', and two gentlemen who were with him, were obliged to lay hold of the oars; and they landed, a little after three o'clock, be- tween liald-Head and a point that projects to the eastward. Mr. King, upon his land- ing, ascended the heights, from which he could see the two coasts join, and that the inlet terminated in a small creek or river, before which there wei*e banks of sand or mud, and in every part siioa! water. The land, for some distance towards the north, was low and swampy ; then it rose in iiilis ; and the perfect junction of thone, on each side of the inlet, was traced without the least difficulty. From the elevated situation in B wa9 Some to the t Willi ) tieat- . Tl»e peuin- (listant his sea [Itmus ; be kept wood, It was tui here rvus not m. - ex pe- nt;, lie , on the without neii) the set their Inch the Ui-Uead. L'k, again wo in the ot Hald- uiiJ. At )elongini|; re so op- that Mr. them put They, at s to drop kottoni ot Mr. King, Hill him, oars; and ['lock, be- pro jects his land- which he d that the or river, of sand or ■iter. The he iiortli, le in iiills; ■ie, on each t tlie least tnalicn i» AND ROUND TriF \\ OIILD. 601 wMJi Mr. Iviiiu^ took his survey of the soniici, he conid discern many snacions val- leys, with rivers flowing through them, »*'ell wooded, and hounded hy hills of a moderate height. One of the rivers towards the N. W. .seemed to be considerable ; and he was ^n - dined to suppose, from its direction that i< discharged itself into the sea at the head ot of these northern countries. lie at lenj^th concluded, that no situation was so conve- nient for our purpose as the Sandwich Is- lands. To them, therefore, he formed a les ilutioii of repairing. But a supply of water beinif necessary before he could exe* cute that design, he determined, with a view of procuring this essential article, to search the bav. Some of his people, penetrpting the coast of America for a harbour, by pro- beyond this into the country, found the trees ceedin^^ along it to the southward. If he to be of a larger si/.e the further they pro- should not meet with success in that searclu ceeded. To this inlet Capt. Cook gave the his intention was to reach Samganoodha, name of Norton's Sound, in honour of Sir which was appointed for our olace of ren- Fletcher Norton, now Lord Grantly ; a near dezvous, in case the ships should happen to relation of Mr. King. It extends northward separate. as far as the latitude of G4deg. 55 min. N. On Thursday, the 17th, in the morning Tlie ba)[, wherein our ships were now at we weighed anchor with a light easterly anchor, is situated on the south-eastern si I ml: 1 O.'l-i- VOVAGE TOWARDS THE NQRTH POLE, j R w til ;ii ji(,t!ie co;v.)try. 11 forms a point, opposite tl). i.si;)Uil, vAiicii wa.s disJiii;;uishe7 deg. 41 snin. E. Some ,jfiuent, and nine to the W. of Stuart's Is'ani'i. We saw no land to the jiouthwa.'d «f Point Shullow Water, which Capt. Cook judged to lie in tie latitude'ol Gti f six or stvta leagues. From this point of view, it resem- bled a duiiter of Islands ; but it was found AND KOIM) TiJE WOUL0. ^93 ide ol Je and isl i:a9 ocessi- Is ; or, p;reater inie to he sea id with nd dis« any of tely an-. 1 a con- in this i;ot into lie vvest- srly, for 5th, of )th, bore [)r eleven lie at N. id snow, id before lation of > latitude nitude of f)e an Is- hich are ground, a group IS a little laving on e prenter iiihahit- loi'U, we rke's Is- its coast he niiiiit. stood in o'lt? it in k:U, wIh n we left it liscovertd ii'jX a frvsli lowers of lipear.uiK'i Ix or stvfii it resein- was Ibuiid (G be only one/of about .thirty miles in ex- tent, in thetiirectioii of N. VV. and S. E. the south-eastern extremity beini?C/a|)e Upright, which we have mentioned before. Tlie Is- land is narrow, particularly at the low necks of land by whicli the hills are con- nected. Capt. Cook afterwards found, that it nvas entirely unknown to the Russians, and therefore, considering it as a discovery ot our own he named it Gore's Island. It it] peared to be barren and destitute of inha- bitants, at least we saw none. Nor did we idiserve such a nnnjl)tr of birds about it, as we had seen whtn we first discovered it. IJut we perceived some sea-otters, an ani- mal which we had not found to the N. of this latitude. About twelve miles from Tape Upright, in the direction of S. 72 deg. \V. stands a small Island, whose lofty sum- mit terminates in several pinnacle rocks, for which reason it obtained the name of Pin- nacle Island. At two o'clock P. M. after we had passed Cape Upright, we steered S. K. by S. for Samganoodha, with a gentle hreeze at N. N. VV. being resolved to lose i!o more time in searching for an harbour among Islands, which we now began to siisjiect hale, by turns, had permission to go a-shore and gather them. Considerable quantities of them were also brought to us by the t . w C94 VOYAGB WtTARDS THE NORTH POLK inhabitants. If there were any seeds of the scurvy, among the peop\e of either ship, these berries, and the use of spruce beer, which they were allowed to drink every other day, etfectually eradicated them. We likewise procured abundance of tish ; at first, chiefly salmon, both fresh and dried, which the natives brought us. Some of the fresh salmon was in the highest perfection ; but there was one sort, which from the tiffure of its head, we called hook-nosed, that was but indifferent. Drawing the seine several times, at the head of the bay, we caught many salmon-trout, and a halibut that weighed two hundred and fifty-four pounds. We afterwards had recourse to liooksand lines. A boat was sent out every morning, whidi seldom returned without flight or ten halibuts, a quantity more than sufficient to serve all our people. These fish were excellent, and there were few who did not prefer them to salmon.^ Thus we not only obtained a supply of fish for present consumption, but had some to carry with us to sea. On the 8th, Capt. Cook received, by the hands of a native of Oona- iashka, named Derramoushk, a very singu- lar present, considering the place we were in. It was a rye loaf, or rather a pye in the form of a loaf, as it enclosed some sal- mon, well seasoned with pepper. This man had brought a similar present for Captain Clerke, and a note for each of the Captains, written in a character which none of us un- derstood. It was natural to imagine, that these two presents were from some Russians now in our neighbourhood, and therefore the Captains sent, by the same messenger, to these unknown friends, a few bottles of rum, wine and porter, which they supftosed would be highly acceptable. Capt. Cook also sent, in company with Derramoushk, Curporul Lediard, of the marines, an intelli- j;ent man, for ihe purpose of gaining farther inf<»rniation ; with orders, that if he met with any Russians, he should endeavour to make them understand, that we were Kng- lishmen, the friends and allies of their nation. Saturday the 10th, Corporal Ledierd I'e- turued with three Russian seamen, or fur- 6 Hers, who with several others resided at Egoochshac, where they had some stor«?- houses, a dwelling-house, and a sloofj ot about Uiirty tons burthen. One of these Russians was either master or mate of this vessel. They were all three intelligent well- behaved men, and extremely ready to giv»; us all the information we could desire, lim for want of an interpreter, we found it very difficult to understand each other. Tln^y appeared to have a perfect knowledge of the attempts which their countrymen had made to navigate the Frozen Ocean, and of the discoveries that had been made from Kamtschatkn, by Beering, Tscherikoft; and Spangenberg. But they had not the least idea to what part of the world Mr. Stsehlin's map referred, when it was laid before them. When Capt. Cook pointed out Kamtschatka! and some other places u|>on this map, they asked him whether he had seen the Islands there represented ; and, on his answering in the negative, one of them pot his fingei upon a part of the map, where a number o( Islands are laid down, and said that he had cruised there ^in search of land, btit could never meet with any. The Captain then shewed them his own chart, and found that they were strangers to every part of the coast of America, except that which lies opposite this Island. One of these men said, that he had been with Beering in his Ameriran voyage ; but he must then have been very young; for even ijow, at the distance of thirty-seven years, he had not the appear- ance of being aged. Never was greater respect paid to the memory of any eminent person, than by these men to that of Beerin?. J'he t'ade in which they are engaged is veiy advantageous, and its being undertaken aiil extended to the eastward of Kamtschatk,;, was the immediate result of the second vd}- age of that distinguished navigator, whose misfortunes proved the source of much pri- vate benefit to individuals, and of (uiblic utility to the Russian empire. And yet, it' his distresses had not accidentally currid him to the Island which bears his name, where he ended his life, and from whence the remainder of his ship's crew brought back si)eciraens of its valuable furs. iii( ; ( AND ROUND THE WORLD. 0:7j ded at stort- oop of t" these of tins irt wtll- to jjive e. But it very They ledge ol n«n liad t, and oi ide from kol^', and the leasl Stselilin'ii tire tiietn. ktschatkfl, nap, they le Islands swering in his tinge( lumber ot tiat he had bHt could ptain then found that )f the coast ss opposite said, that Aoierican been very distance of he appear- vas greater ny eminent of Beeriii?. aged is very irtakeii and imtschalki;, secuud vity- ator, whose unu'li |»n- ,d of |>iiljli<' And yet, It' ally carried •s his na»'e- roui whence tw brought le furs, ill* Hussinnf; would probably have undertaken very vrell acquainted wttk Che geography of no future voyages, which could lead them to those uaits, and with all the discoveries jnake discoveries in this sea, towards the which nad been made in this quarter by the American coast. Indeed, after hi» time, Russians. On seeing the modern niiips, hf their ministry s'^em to have paid less atten- instantly pointed out their errors: he said tion to this ohjttct ; and for what discoveries he had accompanied Lieutenant Syndo, ur have been since made, we are principally (as he called him) Synd, in bis iiittth^^rn ex- indebted to the enterprizing spirit of private pedition ; and, according if* (ik account, merchants, encouraged, however, by the they did n«t proceed fartiier than the T'.chu- siiperin tending care oi ihe court of Peters- kotsko? Noss, or rather than St. LawK-uce's burg. The three Russians having remained liny, for he pointed on our chart to the all night with the Commodore, visited Cant, very place where'Capt. Cook landed. From Clerke the followinj^ morning, and then de- thence he .said they went to an Island in the parted, perfectljf satisfied with the reception lat. of ()3 cleg. N. upon which they d d not they had met with. They promised to re- land. He did not recollect tin;' name ot turn in a few days, and bring with them a that Island ; but the Captain conjectured, chart of the Islands situate between Kamt- that it was ttie same with that io which the schatka and Oonulashka. In the evening npi»ellatio4i of Clerke's Island hud been of the 14th, while Capt. Cook and Mr. given. I'o what place Synd repaired after- Webber were at a village, not far from wards, or in what particular manner he em- Samganoodha, a Russian landed there, who ployed the two years, during which, accord- proved to be the principal person among ing to Ismylofl', his researches^ lasted, he wtis his countrymen in this and the adjacent either unable or unwilling to inform u.«. isles. Hrs nam« was Erasim Gregorioff Sin Perhaps he did not comprehend our enqui- Ismyloff. He arrived in a canoe that car- ries on this point ; and yet, in almost every ried three persons, attended by twenty or thirty smaller canoes, each conducted by one man. Immediately after landing, they constructed a small tent for Ismyloff, of materials which they had brought with them, and they afterwards nnide others for tliemselves, ot their canoes and paddles, which they covered with grass. Ismylotl' having invited the Captain and Mr. Webber into his tent, sei before them some dried salmon and berries. He ap|)eared to be a man of sense ; and the Captain felt no small mortification in not being aWe to converse with him, except by signs, with the assis- tance of figures, and other charactevs. The other thing, v(^e found nteans to make him understand us. This inclined us to suspect, that he had not really been in this expedi- tion, notwithstanding what he had asserted. Not only Ismyloff, but also the others affirm- ed that they were totally unacquainted with the American continent to the northward ; and that neither Lietitenant Synd, nor any other Russian, had seen it of late years. They called it by the same name which Mr. Staelilin has affixed to his large Island,, that is Alaschka. According to the information we obtained from Lsmyloffand his country- men, the Russians have made several at temnts to gain a footing upon that part of Captain re'quested him to favour him with the North American continent, ti^at lies con- his company on board the next day, and tiguotrsto Oonalashka and the adjacent Is- acoordingly he came with all his attendants, lands,' but have constantly been repulse^' l^'v He had indeed moved into the neighbour* the inhabitants, whom they represent as a ln.o(l of our station, for the e\pr*»ss purpose very treacherous peo|He. They made nicMi- of waiting upon us. The Commodore wae tion of two or three Captains, or chie( men, in hopes of receiving from him the chart who bad been murdered by them; and which his three countrymen had promised, some of the Russians shewed us wonntis, Itiit he was disappointed. However Ismy- which they declared they had received there, lulf assured him he should have it, and he Ismyloff also informed us, that in the year Kept his word. The Captain found him 1773, an expedition had been undertaken I .1 . !%■ h' i 1, !'f;" 't- \ u 1. 1 ■,li|| Tit'. * |-|l{ '$• 'ibt';^ 1. iSfi* ^- 606 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLK, into the FroEen Ocean in sledges, over the ice, to three large Islands that are situate opposite the month of the river Kovyma. But a voyage uiiich he said he himself had l)errormed, entrained our attention more than any other, lie told us that on the 12th, of IMiiy, 1771, he saiJed from Bolcheretzk, in Kamtschatka, in- a Russian vessel to Maree- kan, one of the Kurile Islands, where there is an harbour, and a Russian settlement. From this Island he proceeded to Japan, where his continuance appears to have been but short ; for, as soon as the Japanese knew that he and his companions professed the t)hristian faith, they made signs for them to depart ; but did not, so far as we could understand him, oft'er any insult or violence. From Japan he repau-ed to Canton, in China ; and from thence, in a French ship to France. He then travelled to Peters- burgh, and was afterwards sent out again to Kamtschatka. We could not learn what became of the vessel in which he first em- barked, nor what was the principal inten- tion of the voyage. Hrs being unable to speak one word of the French lanf;uage, rendered th>s story rather suspicious ; he seemed clear, however, as to the times of 1ms arrival at the different places, and of his departure from them, which he pul down in writing. The next morning, (Friday the 16th,) he offered Capt. Cook a sea-otter skin, whicn he said was worth eighty roubles at Kamtschatka. The Captain, however, thought proper to decline the otFer ; but arccepted of some dried fish, and several baskets of the lily, or saranne root. In the afternoon, Jsmylotf, after having dined with Capt. Clerke, left us with all his retinue, but promised to return in a few days. Ac- cordingly on the 19th, he paid us another visit, bringing with him the charts aliove- mentioned, which he permitted Capt. Co(»k to cony, and the contents of which are the foundation of the folli#\ving remarks. These charts were two in number, they were both manuscripts, and bore everv mark of authenticity. One of them compriMiendtfd the Penshinskian sea ; the coast ot Tartary, as low as the lat. of II deg. TM. the Kurile Islands, and the peninsula of Kamtschatka. 8 ' Since this chart had been made, Wawseelee IrkeecholF, a naval captain, explored, in the year 1758, the coast of Tartary, from Okotsk, and the river Amur, to Japan, or 41 deg. of nortiiern latitude. We were informed hy Mr. Ismylofl', that a great part of ti.e sea- coast of Kamtschatka had been corrected l)v liimself; and he described the instrament used by him for that purpose, which umlsI have been a theodolite. He also told ns, that there were only two harbours proper for shipping, on all the eastern coast of Kamt- schatka, (viz ) the bay of Awatska, and the river Olutara, in th« bottom of the gulph ot the same name ; that there was not oue harbour on its western coast; and that Yamsk was vhe only one, except Okotsk, on all the western side of the Penshinskian sea, till we come to the river Amur. The Kurile Islands contain but one harbour, ami that is on the N. E. side of Mareekan ; where, as we have already mentioned, tlie Russians have a settlement. The otiier chart comprehended all the discoveries that the Russians had made to the eastward ot Kamtschatka, towards America, That part of the American coast, with which Tscheri- kotf fell in, is laid down in this chart be- tween the lat. of 58 deg. and 58 and an half deg. N. and 75 deg. of eastern lona:. from Okotsk, or 218 and a half deg. from Greenwich ; and the place where Beeriii^ an?hored in 59 and an half deg. of lat. ;uid C)3 and an half deg. of long, from <)kofsk,or 207 deg. from Greenwich. To say 001111112; of the longitude, which may from sevtnd causes be erroneous, tlie latitude of the coast discovered by Beering and Ts<;lu li- kotl^', particularly that part of it which wiis discovered by the latter, differs considerulily from Mr. Mailer's chart. Whether ths chart now produced by Ismylotf, or tliat «{ Muller, be most errone«»us in this resptrt, it may be difficult to determine. Acconlinjr to IsmylofPs account, neither the iiunilier nor the situation of the Islands, which sue dis|>ersed between 52 deg. and 55 ur, and reek an ; i\ed, ihe e other ries that tward ot f hat part Tscheri- Ibart he- II akered (he .sihiation of others, which lie said was necessary ; from the observations which he himself had made ; and there was no reason to entertain a doubt about this. As these Islands are nearly under the same parallel, ditlerent navigators, misled by their different reckonings, might easily mis- take one Island, or cluster of Islands for another : and imagine they had made a new discovery, when they had only found old ones ; in a position somewhat diflTerent from that which their former visitors had assigned to them. The Isles of St. T!i co- ore, St. Stephen, St. Abraham, St. Maca- hus, Seduction Island, and several others, which are represented in Mr. Muller's chart, were not to be found in this now produced to us ; nay, Ismyloff and the other Rus- sians assured Capt. Cook, that they had heen freauently sought for without effect. Nevertheless, it is diificult to believe that Mr. Muller couJd place them in his chart without some authority. Capt. Cook, how> ever, confiding in tlie testimony of these peo- ple, whom he thoup;ht competent witnesses, omitted them in bis chart ; and made such corrections respectinflr the other Islands, as he had reason to think were necessary. . We shall now proceed t<» give some ac- count of the Islands, beginning with those which are nearest to Kamtschatka, and com- fating the longitude from the harbour of 'etropaulowska, in the hay of Awatska. The first is Beering's Island, in 55 deg. of northern lat. and 6 deg. of eastern long. At \he distance often leagues from the southern extremity of this, in the direction of E. by S. or E. S. E. stands Maidenoi Ostroff, or the Copper Island. The next Island is Atakou, in the lat of 52 deg. 45 min. and in the loner, of 15 deg. or 16 deg. The ex- tent of this Island is about eighteen leagues in the direction of E. and W. and it is ))erhai>s the same land which Beering fell in v\itn, and to which he gave the name of Mount St. John. We next come to a cluster of six or more Islands ; two of which, Am- luk and Atghka, are of considerable extent, and each of them has a good harbonr. Tfit^ middle of this group lies in the lat. of 52 dcj?. 30 min. and 28 deg. of long, from the 4 U bay of Auatska, and its extent is about 4 deg. in the direction of E. and W. These are the Isles that Ismyloff said were to be removed 4 d-'g. to the eastward. In the situation they have in Capt. Cook's chart, was a group, comprehending ten iittle Is- lands, which we were informed were entirely to be struck out; and also two Islands, situate between them and the group to u hich Oonalashka appertains. In the place of these two, an Island, named Amoghta, was introduced. The situation of many of these Islands may, perhaps, be erroneously laid down. But the position of the largest group, of which Oonalashka is one of the most consi- derable Islands, is free from such errors. Moj^t of the Islands that compose this clus- ter, were seen by us ; their long, and lat, were therefore determined with tolerable accuracy ; particularly the harbour of Sam- ganoodha, in Oonalashka, which must be considered as a fixed point. This group may be said to extend us far as Halibut Isles, which are forty leairues distant from Oonalashka, towards the £. N. £. Within these Isles, a passage, communicating with Bristol Bay, was marked-in IsmylofTs chart, which converts about fifteen leagues of the coast, that Capt. Cook had supposed to be part of the continent, into an Island, named Ooneemak. This passage might easily escape us, being, as we were informed, ex- tremely narrow, shallow, and only to be na- vigated through with boats, or vessels of very small burthen. From the chart, as well as from the testimony of Ismylojf and his countrymen, it appears, that this is as far as the Russians have made an)r disco- veries, or have extended themselves, since the time of Beering. They all affirmed, that no persons of that nation had settled themf»e)ves so far to the eastward, as the place where the natives gave the note to Capt. Ctetke ; which being delivered to Ismyloff for his (>erusal, he said, that it had been written at Oomannk. From him we procured the name of Kodiak, the largest oi Schumagin's Islands ; for it had no name assigned to it upon the chart v/hich he produced. It may not be improper to mention, that no naipee iJ IP 1^ >,. tained from these people, respecting the geography of this part of the globe; and perijaps this was all the information they were able to give. For tliey repeatedly as- sured Capt. Cook, that they knew of no other Islands, besides those which were re- presenled upon this chart, and that no Rus- sian had ever visited any |Jart of the Ame- rican continent to the northward, except tiiat which is opposite the country of the Tscliutskis. If Mr. Stoehlin was not greatly imfiosed upon, what could induce him to publisli a map so singularly erroneous as liis ujap of the New Northern Archipelago, in nhich many of these Islands are jumbled together without the least regard to truth ? Nevertheless he himself styles it *' a very ac- " curate little map." Ismylotf continued with us till the evening of the 21st, when he took his final leave. (!apt. Cook entrusted to his care a letter ft> the Lords of the Admiralty, enclosing a chart of all the northern coasts we had visit- ed. Ismylott'said there would be an oppor- tunity of transmitting it to Kamts( hatka, or Okotsk, in the course of the succeeding spring; and that it would be at Petersburg the following winter. He gave the Captain a letter to Major Behm, Governor of Kamts- chatka, who resides at Bolcheretsk, in that peninsula; and another to the commanding officer at Petropaulowska. This gentleman seemed to possess abilities that might entitle Itim to a higher station than that in which xve found him. He had considerable know- ledge in astronomy, and in the most useful branches of the mathematics. Capt. Cook made him a present of an Had ley's octant ; and though, perhaps, it was the first he had iever seen, he very quickly made himself ac- 2 guainted with most of the uses to which that instrument can be applied. Thursday the 22nd, in the morning, we made an attempt to get out to sea, with the wind at S. E. but did not succeed. In tiie afternoon of the 23rd, we were visited by one Jacob Ivanovitch Soposnicolf, a Russian, who commanded a small vessel at Ooma- nak. This man seemed very modest, and would drink no strong liquor, of which the other Russians, whom we had met willi here, were extremely fond. He appeared to know what supplies could be obtained at the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, and the price of the various articles, more accu- rately than Mr. Ismylof}*. Rut by all ac- counts, every thing we should have occasion to purchase at that |)iace, was very scarcr, and bore a high price. This man informed us, that he was to be at Petropaulowska in the ensuing May ; and, as we understood, was- to have the charge of Cajjt. Cook's let- ter. He seemed very desirous of having some token from the Captarn to carry to Major Behm ; and to gratify him, the Cap- tain sent a small spying-glass. After we had contracted an acquaintance with these Russians, several of our gentlemen, at differ- ent times, visited their settlement on tlie Island, where they always met with very friendly treatment. It consisted of a dwell- ing-house and two store-i.oiuses. Besi(l«s the Russians, there was a number of the Kamtschadales, and of the Oonalashkans, as servants to the former. Some other natives of this Island, who appeared to be indenei.- dent of the Russians, lived at the same place. Such of them as belonged to the Russians, were all of the male sex ; and they are either taken or purchased from their parents when young. There were at present about twenty of these, who could be considered in no other light than as children. They all reside in the same house, the Russians at the upper end, the Kamtschadales in the middle, and the Oonalashkans, at the loutr end, where is fixed n capacious boiler i'or |)reparing their food, which principally con- sists of lish, with the addition of wild roois and berries. There is no great diii.-rence between the first and last table, except lH^^l|l)L«ip»lll I lltli^pippi>i.,.il di that ing, we vitli tlie In the litetl by lussiai), Ooma- ?st, and lich tlic let with ppeareci ained at )ul, and re accu- all ac< occasion 1 scarcf, informed >wska in Jerstood, tok's let- f having carry to the Cap- A.l"ter we ith these at diifer- t on the with very 'a dwell- Besichs er of the hkaiis, as er nativts indenei- ine plact'. Russians, they art; ir parents 2nt about sidered in They all jssians at es in the the h>wtr boiler t'ur pally con- (Vild roois (liii^'^rente ie, except h^J^ ilPFM I rrwifrwvf ■juwinni KIP"| m> - II w ... jjp upor hvee file cipa skin.< theji long" lasli if n ( flip ibis f'inii 0K„ .4,s land, .■il)|p, point from lifive 'iW;>in to Jje AND ROUND THE WORLD. COO \\\ii\{ is produced bj[ cookery, by which the Ilnssians can make indifferent things pahtt- lilc. 'I'h'ey dress whale's flesh in such a in;iiin< r as to niakr it very good eating:; and ihty luive a kind of |)an-(>ndding of salmon- rue, hfalen np fine and fried, which is a tolerable substitnJe Inr bread. They may, ()prhaps, occasionally lasie real bread, or have a dish in which floor is one of (he in- prcdienls. If we exeards. Their hair«is lonff, black, and straight : the men wear it loose behind, and cut before ; but the women generally tie it up in a bunch. Tlie dress of both sexes is the same with re- spect to fashion, the only difference is in the materials. The frock worn by the •.Bo- rneo is made of the skins of seals ; an«l that of the men, of the skins of birds ; both reach below the knees. 'J'his constitutes the w hole dress of the females. Rut, over the f'rork, the men wear another composed of gut, which water cannot penetrate ; it has a hood to it, which is drawn over the head. Some of them wear boots ; and all of them wear a sort of oval snouted ca|), njade of wood with a rim that admits tfte head. They i\ye these caps with green atid other colours; and round the upper part of the rim they fix the long bristles of some sea animal, on which glass beads are strnnu: ; and on the front is a small intage or tvo formed of bone. They do not make use of paint; but the women puncture their faces slightly, and both sexes perforate the lower lip, in which they fix pieces of bone. But it is as Hncommon here to see a man with this ornanient, as to ob-erve a wonwin with- out it. Some fix beads to the upjicr lip under the nostrils; and the^ all suspend or- naments in their ears. ■ <■* ^'■» ill. m mj t. i m Wi' 700 VOYAGE TOWAIIDS THE NORTH POLE, The inhnbitants of Ooiia1a«ka bury tlieir dead on thu summitti of hills, and raise a lilUe hillock over their graves. There was one of these receptacles of the dead by the side of the road leading from the harbour to tiie villu{i(e, over which was raised a heap of stones. It was observed that every one who puivsed it added one to it. In the country, we saw several stone hillocks, that seemed to have been raised by art ; and many of tlieiu .were apparently of great antiquity. 'i hese people are remarkably cheerful and friendly among each other ; and always be- Ituved with great civility to us. The Rus- sians told us, that they never had any con- nections with their women, because they were uot Christians. Our people were not so scrupulous; and some of them had rea- siu to repent that the feuiales of Oonalash- ka encon raged their addresses without any re .< rve ; for their health suffered by a dis- teiUjt^r that is not unknown here lu these parts the tides are not very consi- derable, except in Cook's River. The flood comes from the 8. or S. £. following the di- rection of the coast to the N. W. Between Cape Prince of Wales and Norton Sound, we found a current setting towards the N. W. particularly off that Cajie, and within Sledge Island. Th^s current, however, ex- tended but a little way from the coast, and was neither constant nor uniform. To the N. of Cape Prince of Wales, we observed neither tiae nor current, either on the enast of America, or that of Asia. This circum- stance gave rise to an opinion, which some of our people entertained, that the two coasts were connected either by land or ice ; and that opinion received some degree of strenitth, from our never having any hollow waves from the northward, and from our seenig ice almost the whole way across. From the several observations made during our oon» tinuance in the harbour of Samganooiiha, its latitude is 53 deg. 5 min. N. and its lun- git Q 193 deg. 29 min. 45 sec. £. CHAP. XIIL if The Resolution and Discovery take their departure from Samganoodha Harlour, in the Island of Oonalashka; Sandivich Islands the appointed place of rendezvous ; Puss the Island of Amog Ida; The strait between Oonalashka and Onella repassed ; Hun to the South : One man killed, and others wounded, on board the Discover!/ ; Mowee, one of the Sandwich Islands described ; A visit from a chief, named Terreeoboo ; Anotlier Island, called Owyhee, discovered ; The crew refuse to drink sugar-cane liquor ; T/ie cordage in the navy a7id merchant's service compared; Favourable account of the natives of Owyhee; The Resolution gels to the windward of the Js-> land; Is joined by the Discovery ; The two ships anchor in Karukakooa Hay, after it had been examined by Bligh ; In the interim, muliiludes of the Islanders are seen, and visits received Jrom ma y of them; Observatories erected; The ground on which they are placed tabooed. 9' when ^N Monday,' the 26th, of October, we sailed from Samganoodha harbour, wHen the wind being southerly, we stood to the westward. The Commodore's inten- tion was to proceed to Sandwich Islands, in order to pass a few of the winter months there, if we should meet with the necessary refreshments, and then direct our course to Kamtschatka, so as to endeavour to arrive i there by the middle of May, in the ensnins^ year. This being determined on, the Com. modore delivered into the hands of Capt. Clerke instructions how to proceed in case of separation. Sandwich Islands bein pointed fur the first place of rendezvous; and for the sticond, Petropaulowska, in Kamtschatka. Having got out of the l)ar-> hour, the wind veered to the S. E. witb AND UOUND THE WORLD. 701 n ilooi) he di- tween :»oui)d, he N. within ir, ex- It, aiut To the jstrved e vnast nicmn- :h sume o coasts ;e ; and trensrth, ' waves ^J ensuins; he Coirt- of Capt. d in case jeiuj? ap- dezvous ; wska, in the har- E. with which we were cnrried to the we.stf>rn part of Oonalashka, by the evening'. We lind here the wind »t 8. and stretched to the west- ward. On Tuesday the 27th, at seven o'ctuck A. M . we wore, and stood to the £. 'I'iie M'iiid had now so greatly increased, a!i to reduce us to our three courses. It blew in heavy squalls, accornf>anied with snow, hnil, nnd rain. On the 28lh, in the morn- injir, Oonalashka bore S. E. four leagues distant. We now stood to the westward ; hut, towards evening, the wind, after it had for a short time abated, got insensibly to the N. E. increasing to a very hard gale, ac<;om- panied with rain : we therefore steered T^^st to the southward, and then, as the wind in- clined to the N. and N. W. more westerly. On Thursday the 2({th, at half-past six, A. M. land was descried, supposed to be tlie Island ofAinoghta. At eight, finding it not in our power to weather the Island, we gave over plying, and bore tiway, with the view of going to the N. of Oonalashka, not prusuMiing in so hard a gale of wind to attempt a passage to the S. E of it. When we i>oie away, the land extended from £. by S. Iialf S. to S. S. W. distant four leagues. Our lat. was 53 detr. 38 min. and our long. 11)1 deg. 17 iniu. whicli gives a very differ- ent situation to this Islund from that assign- ee! to it upon tlie Russian map ; and Capt. Cook was at a loss to determine whether it was Ainoghta or not ; but on the chart, Krenitzen's and L.«vasheff's voyage in 1768 and 17^, an Island called Amnckt.i is laid down, not very far from the place here as- signed to Amoghta by Capt. Cook. As we were steering to the N. E. at eleven o'clock we discovered a rock, elevated like a tower, bearing N. N. E. about four leagues distant, and situated in lat. 53 deg. 57 min. long. 191 iieg. 2 min. This rock is not marked in the Russian map produced by Ismyloff; yet it has a place in the chart of Krenitzen's and Levasheff's voyage. That chart also agrees with Capt. Cook's as to the general jjosition of this group of Islands. The singu- larly indented shores of the Island of Oona- lashka, are represented in both charts nearly alike- These circumstances are worthy of notice, as the more modern Russian maps 6 of this Archipelago are so exceedingly erro- neous. At three in the afternoon, we had in view Oonalashka ; upon which we short- ened sail, and hauled the wind, being unable to run through the passage before night. Friday the 20th, we had a very hard gale at W. N. W. with heavy squalls, and snow, in- somuch that we were compelled to bear away under courses, and close-reeted top- sails. At noon we were about the midcne of the strait, between Oonalashka and Oonel* la, the harbour of Samganoodha, bearing S. S. E. one league distant. At three o'clock^ P. M. we were through the strait, and clear of the Isles, Cape Providence bearing W. S. W. distant three leagues. On Sunday, the 1st of November, thft wind was favourable, and we st^od to sea. The weather was fairer than it had been at any time since we cleared Samganoodha Harbour, as it is called by the Russians, or Providence Bay, as it was named by Capt, Cook. On the 2nd, the wind was at S» and, in the evening, blew a violent storm>^ which occasioned us to bring to. Several guns were fired by the Discovery, which we immediately answe>red. We lost sight oi her at eight o'clock ; nor did she join us till ten the next morning, being the 3rd. On. Saturday the 7th, in lat. 42 deg. 12 min. long. 201 deg. 26 min. E a shag or cormo- rant, dew often round the ship. As it is r^ot common for these kind of birds to go far from land, we concluded there might be some at no great distance, though we did not discover any. Having but little wind, Capt. Clerke came on board with some me- lancholy intelligence. He informed us, that the second night after we had departed from Providence Bay, or Samganoodha, the main-tack of the Discovery gave way, by which accident John Mackintosh, seaman, was 'struck dead, and the boatswain, with three other mariners, much wounded. He udded, that on the 3rd, his ship having sprung a leak and the rigging received con- siderable damage, he fired some guns as a signal for the Resolution to bring to. On the 8th, we were favoured with a gentle breeze at N. attended with clear weather. On the 9th, we had eight hours calm ; te ■•' » h m ^ ■ 1 ^K f w ■ff: ,4 -i ro2 VO^ AfiE TOWARDS TiTSi NORTH POLE, which sncceedetl a wijul from thf S, accom- imnied with (air weather. 8m'h ot'oiir peo- ple Jis cotihl handle a ncecUe, were now t>w\)\oyei\ to ie|);tii' the sails ; nth! the car- lieiileiR wpre tliierted to fnit the b tuts in oaler. 'riinrsflay, the l*2lh, we ohservetl in lat. ;i8 {1««:. 14 iwin. ionir UOG (leg. 17 mill. 'I'he \sm<\ reliiriied back to the noilhward ; and on Snnday the 15th, in lat. 33 des". 30 mill, it veered to the E. We ikav saw a tropic biri'e(li>.csVenow perceived people on many parts of the shore ; also several hou'-^es and plantations. The couht try appeared to be well supplied with wood and water, and running streams were seen in various places, falling int« the sea. It l>eing of the utmost importance to procure a It f»jpi>iy of provisions at these Islands, whicli ronhi not be ac(;omplished, should a free trade with the natives be |irruiitted ; for (his reason, the Cummodore (u'lblished an order, prohibiting all persons on board the ships (roiii trading, except those that should be appointed by himself and Capt. Clerke ; and even these were under limitations oi (railing only (or provisions and refreshments. Injunctions were also laid against admitting women into the ships niuler certain restric- tions ; but the evil intended to have been prevented by this regulation, had already got sinioiigst them. At noon, the coast ex- tended (rom S. 81 i\eix. E. (o N. 5 'J deg. W. A low i]a(, like an isthmus, bore S. "42 de;;, W. the nearest shore being four miles di.-'- tant. Onv lat. was now 20 dvis. 59 min. oui long. 203 detr. 50 min. E. Some canoes came otf, anil when along-side, many n( tbose who were in them, entered the ship wihont hesitation. We soon perceived that they were of the same nation as those Island- ers more to the leeward, whom we had al- ready visited ; and, as we understood, they were no strangers to our having been in these parts betore It was indeed t(>o evi- dent; these people having got the venereal diseaxse among (htn., which they prohahjy contracted by an intercourse with their neicrhbonrs, after we had left them. Our visitors .nipplied us with a quantity of cut- tie-tisb, in exchange for nails anrf iron. They brought but a small quantity of fruit or roots, but sai lU>UiNi> HIE WORLD. 708 (1is])ns(Ml of Jill tlieirn.'iru'oes, niul not express- itif; (iny iiK'liiKitioM to fetcli more, we imme- diiitel.v riNule siiil. On IMomly. the 30tli, in the afternoon, heini? otVthe N. E. end of the Island, some more canoes cabu? oft*. M'ist of these l»e- |oni;eil to Terreeoboo, a chief, who came in one of them. lie made the Commodore a |)U!scnt of three pips •, and we i)rocnred a iiltte fruit by bi'.rterin^ with his people. In abont two hours they all left us, except •ieven persons wlio chose to remain on hoard. Soon after, a double sailing? o;)noe nir?veil to attend upon them, which wr tow- ed a-stero the whole nij^rht. In theeveuini?, nnolhcr Islo'id \vas seen to the windward, called by the natives, Owhyhee. That wliioli we liad been oiY for some days, was c;illcd Mowee. On 'J'=U'>day, the 1st of December, at fii^hL o'c!o(,'l; A. iM. Owlivhoe extended from S. 22 dtfj. E. in S 12 deii'. \V. and M()\vci; from N. 41 deic. lo N. 81 deg. W. Peicieviuif we could fetch Owhyhee, we stood for it, when our visitors from Mowee llioiifrht prop?^r to emltarU m their canoes, iiiid Wi iit jviborc. We spent the niiilit sfand- iiiU' off and on the north side of Owhyhee. On the 2nd, in the mornini;', to our great surprise, we saw the sun^mits of the moun- tains covered with snow, TLough they were r.ot of an extraordinary lieijjfht, the snow, ill some places, appeared to be of a (ousiderable de()th, and to have remained there some time. As we drew near the slnre some of the natives approached us, u'lio appeared a little shy at tirst ; but we pifvailed on some of them to come on lioird ; and at length prevailed on them to icliirii to the Island to brin|>' us such refrcsh- liieiits as we wanted. After these had reacli- i;! (lie shore, we had plenty of conipany, \v!i() brouiilit us a trderable supply <>f P'JA*', iiiiit, and roots. We traded with them till SIX in the evenini;, when we stood oil', in order to ply to windward round tiie Island. Ill the eveninj? of the 4th, an eclipse of the moon was observed. Mr. Kinji' used, for the purpose of observation, a liitrht-teles- co|ie, with a circular aperture at the object fiid, T!ie Commodore observed with the telescope of one of Ramsden'.s sextants. The mean of their observations mate our loniifitude to be 204 deg. 35 min. E. Sun- day, the (Jth, in the eveniniii', being near the shore, and five leagues farther up the coast, we aijain traded with the natives ; but re- ceiving' only a triflinur supply, we stood in the next morninK-, when tlie number of our visitors was considerable. We had now procured |)ork, fruit, and root;*, sufticient to servo us four or five days ; we llicreforc made sail, and still plied to the windward. Aunm^ other stores the Cominoii )re liad procured a great (juantity of sugar cane ; and having, upon trial, discovucd that a decoctKMi of it made very paliitable liquor, he ordered some of it to li^? brewed for our ships's service out on broa(;hing a cask there- of, not one of the crew would even taste it. Caj)t. Cook having no other motive in pre- paring this beverage, than that of preserving our spirits for a colder climate, neither ex- erted his authority, nor had recourse lo per- suasion, to induce them to drink it, well knowing, that, so long as we could be plen- tifully sup|)lied with other vegetables, there was no danger of the scijrvy. But that he might not iiave his intentioi: frustrated, he ordered that no grog sho!:ld be served in either of the two ships, The Coininoc'ore an and when in iiossession of these, past hard- ships are instantly foviyotten ; even those whom the srnrvy had attacked, and render- ed almost lifeless, brightened up on this oc- casion, and for the moment ap|)eared alert. We must here observe, that innovations, of whatever kind on board a shi|), are sure to meet with the disapprobation of the seamen, though even to their advantage. Our port- able soup and sour kront were condemned, at first, as improper food for human beings. Few commanders have introduced more useful varieties of food and drink into their ships than Capt. Cook has done : few others, indeed, have had the opportunities, or have been driven to the necessity of tryinir such experiments. It was nevertheless, owing to certain deviations from established customs and practice, that he was enabled, in a great degree, to preserve his people from the scurvy, a distemprr that has often made more havock in peaceful voyages, than the enemy in military expeditions. Sunday, the 13th, having hitherto kept at some distance from the coast, we now stood in, six leagues more to the windward ; and, after trading with such of the natives as came oft" to us, returned to sea. On the ]5th, it was our intention to approach the shore again, with the view of procuring a fresh supply of fruit and roots ; but the wind being then at S. E. by S. and S. S. E. we embraced the opportunity of stretching to the eastward, in order to get round the S. E. end of the Island. The wind continued at S. E. the greatest part of the I6th ; it was variable on the 17th, and on Friday ihe 18th, it was continually veering. Sometimes it blew in hard squalls; and at other times, it was calm, with thunder, lightning, and rain. In the afternoon it was westerly fur a few hours, but it shifted, in the evening to E. by S. The S. E. point of tb* Island now b<)re S. W. by S. five leagues distant. We expected to have weathered it, but on Saturday, the lyth, at one o'clock, A. M. we were left wholly at the mercy of a north- easterly swell, which drove us fast towards 8 the land ; so that long before day-break, huhts were seen upon the shore, which was then distant about a league. It was a dark night, with thunder, lightning, and rain, i'lie cjilm was succeeded by a breeze from the 8. E. by E. blowing in fiquallswith rain. We stood to the N. E. thinking it the best tack to clear the coast ; but had it been day-light, we should have chosen the other. At day-break, the coast extended from N. by W. to S. W. by W. about half a league distant ; a most dreadful surf breaking upon the shore. We had certainly been in must imminent danirer ; from which we were not secure, the wind veering more easterly ; so that for a considerable time, %ve were but jt»st able to keep our distance from ttie coast. Our situation was rendered more alarming, by the leach-rope of the main-to()- sail giving way, in consequence of which the sail was rent in two ; ana the top-gallant- sails gave way in the same manner, though not half worn out. We soon, however, got others to the yards, and left the land a-stern. The Discovery was at some distance to the north, entirely clear from the land ; nor did she appear in sight till eight o'clock. Capt. Cook here remarks, that the bolt ropes to our sails are extremely deficient in strength or substance. This, at , till within about four miles of the land, \\]]f\\ a number of canoes came off, hulen uiili ;:)rv»visions. The people continued tra- diii!; vith us till four o'clock in the afternoon, ' miich time having obtaim^^ a good sup- jdy, we made sail, str»ilcnlng off to the 1101 111 ward. In our intercourse with the icoile of this Island, we met with less i^r 1 4 X serve and suspicion, than we had ever ex:- j)erienced aujong any of the Indian tribes. They frequently sent up into the ship, the articles they meant to barter, and afterwards came in themselves, to tratlicon the quartei deck. The inhabitants of Otaheite, whom we so often visited, had not that confidence in our integrity. It is but justice to ob- serve, that the natives of Owhyhee never attempted to over-reach ns in exchanyes, nor to commit a single theft. They perfectly understood trading, and clearly compreliend- ed the reason of our plying upon the coast : for though ihey brought off plenty of pigs, and other provisions, they were particular in keeping up the price, and rather fhaii dispose of them at what they thought under the value, they would carry thenron shore again. Tuesday, the 22nd, at eight o'clock A. M. we talked to the southward. At noon, in lat. 20 deg. 28 min. 30 sec. the snowy peak bote S. W. half S. The preceding day we had a good view of it, and the quantity of snow seemed to have increased, and to exte;jd lower down the hill. We stood to the S. E. till midnight, when we tacked till four, ^^e had hopes of weathering the Is- land, and should have succeeded, if a calm had not ensued, arul left us to the n>ercy of a swell, wljich impelled us towards the land, from which we were not above the distance of two leagues. Some light putls of viind, however, lonk us cut of danger. As v,e lay in this situation, some Islanders came oif with hog.s, fowls, and truit. From one of the canoes ne got a goose, little larger than a Muscovy duck. The colour of itw plumaue wasadark grey; the bill and legs were blr.nk. Having purchasrd what the natives had brought oil', «e made sail, and .streiched to (he noith. At midnight we tacked and stood to the S. E. in order to examine the weathermost side of the Island, where, we were told, there was a safe harbour. In this attempt the Discovery had her ma'n-to|>- mast stay-sail split, and by continuing standing to the north, she lost sight of our shi|), the Uesolution. Heavy complaints again pievailc(J among her company. Thd weather ^^n|iuuiw^ tempestuous, th«W i is 1 ; i: roG VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NOUTII POLE, pi' ^-■i m •sF. yf sntTeriiifl^s on this account, from incessant labour, and s.\Tuty of provisions, were grown cortfessedly srrievons. Their grog', that had been stopfx^d at our arrival on the coast, was n(»\v dealt lo them as usual, and it was only liy the kindest treatment from their officers, that the men could be kept to their duly. On Thursday the 24th, at day-light, she was not in sight, but, at this time, the weather being liazy, we thought she might be follow- ing us. At noon we observed in lat. 19 deg. 5') min. and in long. 205 deg. 3 min. Ihe S. Fi. point of the Island bearing S. by E, six If agufs distant ; the other extreme bore N. (){) (leg. V\^ when we were two leagues from the nearest shore. In the evening at six o'clock, the soulliernmost part of the Island bore S. AV. the nearest shore being seven miles distant. We had, therefore, now suc- ceeded in our endeavours, in getting to the windward of the Island. The Discovery was not yet in sight, but as the wind was fa- vourable for her to follow us, we expected she would shortly join ns. We therefore, kept cruising off this point of the Island, till Caf)t. Clerke was no longer expected here. It was at length conjectured, that he was gone to leeward, m order to meet us that way, not having been able lo weather the N. I'2. part of the Island. Keeping gene- rally at the distance of from five to ten leauiies from the land, one canoe only <*ame off to ns till the 2Htli, when ahont a dozen appeared, bringing, as usual, the produce of the Island. VVe were concerned that the people had been at the trouble of coming, as we could not possibly trade with them, not having yet consumed our former stock ; and we were convinced by expfrience, that the hogs could not be ke[)t alive, nor the roots be many days preserved from putrefac- tion. It was our intention, however, not to leave this part of the Island before we had procured a good supply, knowing we could not easily return to it, if it should hereafter be founi luafed on this point, many of whose inhalji tants thronged otl'fo the ship with hogs and women. The latter could not [tossibly Ik; prevented from couiing on board • and llif.v were less reserved than any females we had ever seen. Indeed, they seemed to have AND ROUND THE WOULD. 707 visited ns uitli no other view than to make a t<^iuler of their persons. Having obtained a quantity of salt, we purchased only such hogs as were larjye enough for salting; refus- ing all those that were under size : and we could seldom procure any that exceeded tite weigiit of sixty pounds. Happi«ly for us, we had ptill some vegetables remainiui;, as we were now supplied with but few of those productions. Indeed, from the appearance of this part of the country, it seemed incapa- ble of affording them. Evident marks pre- sented themselves of its having been laid waste by the explosion of a volcano ; and though we had not seen any thing of the kind, yet the devastation it had made, in the neighbourhood, was very visible. The na- tives having liOW left us, we ran a few miles down the coast in the evening, and passed the night in standing off and on. The next morninp, being Thursday the 7tb, we were again visited by the natives. Being not far from the shore, Capt. Cook sent Mr. Bligh in a boat, in order to sound the coast, and also to go ashore, in search of fresh water. On his return, he reported, that within two cables length of the shore, he ."ound no soundings with a line of one hundred and sixty fathoms; that, on the land, he could discover no stream or spring ; that there was some rain-water in holes, upon the rocks, wliich the spray of the sea had ren- dered brackish ; and, that the whole coun- try was composed of flags and ashes, inter- spersed with a few plants. Between ten and eleven, to our great satisfaction, the Discovery made her appearance, coming round the south point of the Island, and joined us about one. Capt. Clerke came on board, and acquainted us, that having cruis- ed four or five days where we were separated, !ie plied round the east side of the Island ; where meeting with tempestuous weather, lie had been driven from the coast. He had one of the Islanders on board all this time, wlio liad refused to leave the ship, though )|)p()rtunities had been in his favour. At noon we dhserved in lat. 19 deg. I min. J'Hig. 203 dtg. 2{» min. the nearest part of tjjn coast being two leagues distant. On II) J, 81 h, at day-break, we perceived, that while we were i)!ying in the night, the cur- rent had ciiiiied us hack considerably to the windivard ; and that we were now off the S. Ar. point of llie Island, where we brought to. in order to enable the inhabitants to trade with us. We spent the night in standing oil" and on. Four men and ten women, wlio came on board the preceding day, were with us still. The Commodore not liking the company of the latter, we stood in shore oa the 9th, about noon, solely with the view of getting rid of our guests ; when some canoes coming off, we embraced the opportunity of sending them away. On Sunday the lOth, in the morning, we had light airs from the N. W. and calms ; at eleven, the wind fresherved at N. N. W. which so greatly retarded us, that, in the evening, at t ight o'clock, the south snowy hill bore 1 deir. 30 min. E. On the 1 1th, at four o'clock, A. 31. the wind being at W. we made for the land, in expectation of get- ting some refreshments. The natives seeing us so near them, began to come off, and we continued trading with them the whole day : though we |)rocured but a very scanty sup- ply, many of those who came off in their canoes, not having a single thing to barter. From this circumstance, it appeared, that this part of the Island was extremely poor, and had already furnished us with every thing they could spare. Tuesday the 12!h, was employed in plying off and on, with a fresh gale at west. A mile from the shore we found ground, at the depth of tifty-tive fathoms. At five o'clock P. M. we stood to the southward, and at midnight we had u calm. On the 13lh, we had a .small breeze at S. S. E. and steered for the land. A few canoes came olf to us with some hogs ; but they brought no vegetables, which we now much wanted. In the evening, we had got the length of the S. \V. point of the Island, biit, by the veering of the wind, we lost in the night all that we had gained in the d.iy. Being in the same situation on the 14th, in the tnorning some more canoes att^ndrd nc ; Ijut they brought not ai.y articles we srood in need of. We were now (lestitiitc of fr: * and roots, and therefore ol)liij;f«l to have recourse to our sea pinvisions. Several fly s"ll If -i\ H t 708 VOVAGE i'OWUlD.S TllE NOKTIl VOLE, tfanoe-?, at this jiinctjire, orrived from llie Dortlnvnnl, fV; .a whencti we were snpi)lieil Willi si.iiie ljoi?s jukI rools. On Friday, the i5th, we iiiui variable light airs till five in tlie alteriKKMi, \\i\e\\ a hreeze sprung up at E. N. E. au;»!)sitiun. One of them made off 1 w ith a boat's rudder, and was not detected till it -.vas too late to recover it. The C»)ui- modcrc imagined this to be a proper oppor, tunity to shew these Islanders the use of our tire ar,ns. Two or three musquets, and as many four pounders, were by his orders, fired over the canoe which went away with the rudder: but it not being our intentiorj, that the shot sh(uild take effect, the sin- rounding multitude were more surpri/ed than terrified. At the approach of night, the most considerable jiart of our visitors retired to the shore ; but many, at their own earnest request, were permitted to sleep on board : but we had good reason to think, that curiosity, at least with some of them, was not llie only motive ; for the next morn, ing several articles were missing, in conse- queni'ie of which, orders were given not to permit so many to stay with us on any future night. On Sunday, the 17th, by eleven o'clock, A. M. we were safely moored, in ccunpany with the Discovery, in eighteen fathoms water. The bay were we lay in anchor, called by the natives Karakakooa, is a convenient hari)our; and having suffer- ed nsncli in our masts and rigging, we were happy at last to find so i)roper a place to redt. We cast anchor within a quarter of ;i mile of the N. K. shore ; the south point o! the bay bearinu' S. by W. and the norlli point W. half N. After we were moored, the ships continued to be much crowded with the natives, and surrounded by a vast multitude of them, besides hundreds that, like iish, were swimming about the two ships. We were struck with the singularity of this scene, and particularly pleased witii enriching our voyage, with this im|)ortant new discovery, owing to 'the opportunity of thus revisiting Sandwich Islands, and i, consequence of not having succeeded in finD THE WOIUJX 709 dtlocled 'lie Com- er oppor- jse of our i, aiui as is orders, way witlj intentioii, the sui- surpri/.ed of ni|;ht, ur visitors their own o slet^p on to thiidc, ! of them, next morn. ill conse- /en not to as on any 17lh, by ?ly moored, n eitrhteeii we hiy i\\ arakakooa, ,'inu' snit'er- 0-, we were a place to arter of ?. I point III the north moored, crowded jy a vast reds that, the two ingnlarity ■ased with important nrtnnity f'i s, and i. :ct'eded in ward. Ig r <'Mt on .nai'inc, ,d)serva- \ich means )nrties, '<;! prote(!t- ■nient spot jtre of the village, I'areea offered to exercise his power in our behalf, ami proposed that some houses should be taken, that our observa- tions might \ot be obstructed. This friendly offer, however, was declined, and we made clioice of a potatoe field adjoining to the Morai, which was readily granted, and to prevent the intrusion of t e natives, the place was consecrated by the priests, who placed their wands round the wall which eiMdosed it. This interdiction the natives call taboo, a term frequently repeated by these Islanders, and seemed to be a word of extensive meaning. In this instance, it pro- cured us more privacy than we could have wished. Not anj canoes attempted to land near us; the natives only sat on the Mall, not daring to come within the tabooed space, without permission from us. The men indeed, at our request, would bring pro- visions into the field ; but our utmost endea- vours were ineffectual to induce the women to give us their company. Presents were tried, but without success. We endeavour ed to prevail on Pareea and Koah to bring them : '.he Ivitooa and Terreeoboo they said would kill them if they did. This circum- 'tiince afforded great amusement to those on board, x^hit' . ; multitudes of people, women particularly flocked in shoals, insomucli that t!;ty ere frecjuenily obliged to clear lite vessel .n order to make room to perform tlieir lie cssary duties. Two or three hun- dred w linen were sometimes obliged to throw t'.ei5iselves into the water, where they coiitin ed to swim and play, till tlu;y could lie re- (Imillt'd. On the 1 Dili, Pareea and Knah !eit us, in oi^*v^ CHAP. XIV, Society of priests discovered by (irvidcnt ; Our reception by them; Moan art ifJfc of Koah ; Arrival of Terreeoboo^ kiuic of the if.lund ; I'tte Hay tabooed oh that occasion ; I'lte inhidulanls d/oni;/,} to obedience ; A remarkaldc ceremony ; Visit from the Icing ; Itelnrnedhy Capt. i.ook ; 'J he civility of the natives, who arc much addicted to thieving ; Their readiness in candncting onv of our parties np thi'. country ; A boxing malcii described ; Death of William Watman, a seaman ; Jh'liaviour of the priests at his firnenil ; The ratling and images on the Moral purchased ; ''I he natives inquisitive about our departure; and iheir opinion rapccting the object, of our roya<^e ; Pnscnts Jrom the lung to Capt. Cook i The Uesolution and Discovery nff subsisted, lie wrapped a piece of red cloth round tiie shoulders of Capt, Cook, and in the usual form, presented him with a pig'. lie was then seated next the king, and Kai- reekeea and their attendants, beu^an their vocal ceremonies, Kaoo and thechiets assist- inj? in the responses, in the person of this kinjf, we weresurprized to recoifnize the sanie emaciated old man, who catne on board the Resolution, from the N. E. sitle '*f the !s- lan«l ol Movvee ; and we perceived that se- veral of his attendants were the some persons, who at that time continued with ns the whole night. Among these were the kin;;'s two youngest sons, the elder about the ace of sixteen ; and Maiha-Maiha, his nephew, whom we could not immediately recollect, having had his hair plastered over with a dirty paste and powder, which was no small improvement to the most savage counte- nance we iiad ever seen. The formalities of this meeting being en i.e )n boaru lur is talent for ,sed. About other gentle- o the coun- ural curiosi- nt of whicli afford Kaoo bis civility, sition in our informed of lan he sent >f provisions, ion and as- hem by the inhabitants of lliose districts throngli wbich they shau\d pass. His civility on this oc- casion Yvas so delicate and disinterested, that even the people he employed were not permitted to accept of the smallest present. At the end of six days the p'entlemcn re- turned, without havin;^ been able to pene- trate farther than twenty miles into the Is- land, owing partly to improper ^nidos. and partly to the natnre of tbe county, wbich occasioned this expedition to be attended with no small fatigue, and some dans^j^r. Mr. Nelson, bowever, collected a curious assortment of indii^enons plants, and some natural curiosities. During their absence, every thing remained quiet at tbe tents, and the natives supplied the ships with such quantities of provisions, of all kinds, that orders were again given to purchase no more hogs in one day, than could be killed, salt- ed, and stowed away the next day. This order was in consequence of a former one, to purchase all that could be procured for sea stock, by which so many of them were brought on board, that several of them died beforp hey could be properly disposed of. On ^Tednesday, the 27th, in the morning, the rudder of our ship was unhung, and sent on shore, in order to undergo a thorough repair. The carpenters at the same time were sent into the country, under the pro- tection and guidance of some of Kaoo's people, to get planks for the head rail work, which was become rotten and decayed. In a visit, on the 'iSth, from Terreeoboo to Capt. Gierke, the latter received a present of thirty large hogs, and such a quantity ot vegetables as could not be consumed by his crew in less than a week. This being an unexpected visit, made it the more extraor- dinary. Not having seen any of the sports or exercises of the natives, at our particular request, they entertained us in the evening v^ith a boxing match. A vast concourse of people assembled on a level spot of ground, not far distant from our tents. In the cen- tre, a long vacant space was left for them, at the upper end of which the arbitrators presided, under the standards. Slips ot cloth of various colours, were pendant from tliese standards; as were the skins of two 4 Y wild geese, some suinll birds, ami a fi w bunches of feathers. 'J'be sports beiiip. rtiuiy to begin, the judges gav«- tbe siffiul, niul two combatants appeared in view. They an the soil's. As tliL-y came forward, they sjir- veyed each other frequently from bend to foot, with an air ofconlemjit, looking archly at the spectators, distorting their featnresj and practising a variety of unnatural ges- tures. When they were advanced within the reach of each other, they held both arms straight out bt fore their laces, at which part thev always aimed their lilows. TheyslrucU with a full swing of the arm, which to ns had a very aukward appearance. They did not attempt to parry ; but endeavoured to elude their adversary's attack, by stooping or retreating. The battle was decided ex- peditiously ; for if either of them fell, whe- ther by accident, or from a blow, he was deemed vanquished ; and the victor ex press- ed his triumph by a variety of strange ges- tures, which usually excited a loud laugli among the spectators, for which purpose it seemed to be calculated. The successtiil combatant waited for a second antagonist ; and, if again victorious, for a third ; and so on, till at last he was defeated. In these combats it was very singular, that, when any two are preparing to attack each other, a third may advance, and make choice of either of them for his antagonist, when the other is under the necessity of withdrawing. If the combat proved lon^ and tedious, or appeared unequal, a chief generally inter- fered, and concluded it by putting a stick between the combatants. As this exhibition was at our desire, it was universally expect- ed, that some of us would have engaged with the natives ; but, though our people received pressing invitations to bear a p^rt, they did not hearken to the challenges, not having forgot the blows they received at the Friendly Islands. This day, died William Watman, a mari- ner of the gunner's crew. This event we mention particularly, seeing death had hitherto been uncommon among us. He was a man in years, and much respected by . 1 '•t O §■ h,i i ^ ■':. 714 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, Ira If * Capt. Cook. He Fiad served twenty-oneyears us :i iiiaiiiif, and then entered asn seamen in ITT'i, on board the Resolution, and served with the Commodore in his voyaire towards tile South Pole. On their rt turn he got ad- mittance into Greenwich Hospital, at the same time with hiniself; and anxious to follow the fortunes of hi.s benefactor, he also quitted it with him, on the Commo- dore's appointment to the command of the present expedition. Watman had oflen been subject to sliirht fevers in the course of the voyage, and was very intirm when we arrived in the bay, where, having been sent a few daysn shore, bethought himself per- fe(;tly restored, and requested to return on board. His request was complied with. The day following he had a stroke of the palsy, which in two day afterwards put an end to his life. At the request of Terreeo- boo, the remains of this faithful seaman were buried in the Morai ; the ceremony being performed with great solemnity. Kaoo and his brethren were present at the funeral, who behaved with great decorum, and paid due attention while the service was perform- ing. On our beginning to fill up the grave, they approached it with great awe, and threw in a dead pig, togeHier with some cocoa-nuts and plantains. For three suc- cessive nights they surrounded it, sacrificing hogs, and reciting prayers and hymns till morning. At the head of the grave, we erected a post, and nailed thereto a piece of board, whereon was inscribed the name and age of the deceased, and the day of his de- parture from this life. These memorials we were assured they would not remove, and, ,t is probable, they will be permitted to re- main, so long as such frail materials can endure. Being much in want of fuel, Capt. Cook desired Mr. King to treat with the priest, for the purchase of the railing belonging to the Morai. Mr. King had his doubts re- specting the decency of this overture, and apprehended the proposal might be deemed impious ; but in this he was much mistaken : for an application being made for the same, they expressed no kind of surprize, and the wood wa delivered without the least stipu- 3 lation. While our people were taking il away, Mr. King saw one of them with a carved image ; and, upon enquiry, he was informed, that the whole semicircle (as men. tioned in the description of the Morai) had been carried to the boats. Though the na- tives were spectators of this business, tliey did not seem to resent it ; but on the con- trary, had even assisted in the removal. Mr. King thought proper to mention the particulars to Kaoo ; who seemed exceed- ingly indiflferent about the matter, begging him only to restore the centre image ; which was immediately done, and it was conveyed to one of the priest's houses. For some time, the king, and his chiefs, had been very importunate to know the time of our departure. From this circum- stance, Mr. King's curiosity was excited to know the opinion these people had enter- tained of us, and what they supposed to be the object of our voyage. He took consi- derable pains to satisfy himself respecting these points ; but the only information lie could get, was that they supposed we had left our native country on account of the scantiness of pr<»visions, and that we had visited them for the sole purpose of fillin<: our bellies. This conclusion was natural enough, considering the meagre appearance of some of our crew ; the voracity with which we devoured their fresh provisions; and our anxiety to purchase as much of it as we were able. It was a matter of enter- tainment to see the natives patting the bel- lies of the sailors (who were much improved in sleekness since their arrival at the bay,) and telling them, in the best manner they could, that it was time for them to depart; but if they would return the next bread- fruit season, they should be better able to su|)ply them. We had now continued sixteen days in the bay, during which time our consumption of hogs and vegetables, had been so enormous, that we need not be surprized at their wishing to see us take our leave. But Terreeoboo had, perhaps no other view in his enquiries, than a desire of having sufiicient notice, to |)repare suitable jiresents for us at our departure ; for when we informtd him of our intentijou to quit rfl AND ROUND Till: NVOULD. J.-k taUins \l m with a !, he was e ^as men- ^orai) had h the iia- ness, they 1 the coii- renioval. ention the d exteed- r, besting ge ; which s conveyed his chiefs, know the lis circucu- excited to had enter- )Osed to he took consi- i respecting irmation he ;ed we had ount of the lat we had 56 of fining ivas natural afipearance iracity with provisions; much of it er of enter- 11}? the bel- ch improved at the bay,) anner they , to depart; next bread- tter able to continued which time vej^etables, need not be us take our perhaps no n a desire of are suitable ; for wheAi tiou to quit Ihe Ishtnd in two days, a kind of proclama- tion was made, re<|nirini; the natives to brinu: in their hogs, and vegetai)les, for Terreeoboo to present to the Orono. VVe were this day much entertained, al tlie bea«'h. with the builonneries of one <»f the natives. He held in his hand an instru- ment of mnsic, such as ue liave already described : bits of sea-ueed were fastened round bis neck ; and, round <.Mi;h lec^, souie strong nettni!? ; whereon wtre tixed rows of dope's teeth, hanging loose, llisdancinjr was accompanied WKth sirange grimaces, and un< n.itural di,stortions of the features, which were sometimes hit;hly ridiculous, and, ujumi the whole without meanint^ or expressicu). J3ut the wrestlinu: and boxing matches af- forded II > good diversion for the even.ug; and, in refui.i, we exhibited the few tire- works we had remaining. Nothing could more effectually excite the admiration of these Islanders, or strike them with more exalted ideas of our sn[)eriority, than such a representation ; notwithstanding this was, in every respect, much iLfnrior to that exhi- bited at llapaee, yet th^ u.^tonishment of these people was equally great. The carpenters who bad been sent up the country to cut planks for the head rail-work ot our ship, the Resolution, had now been ^one three days, and not having heard from them, We began to be alarmed for their safety We expressed our apprehensions to Kaoo, who appeared equally concerned with ourselves ; but while we were planning measures with him, for sending proper per- sons after them, they all safely arrived. Our people had gone farther into the coun- try than they expected, before they found any trees suitable for their purpose. This cwcumstance, together with the badness of the roads, and Ihe difficulty of conveying timber to the ships, had so long detained them. 'J'hey bestowed high commendations Oil iheW guides, who not only supplied them \ ith piovisions, bur faithfully protected tbeir lorls. Havinff fixed on Thursday the 4ti{ of F. bruarv, for our departure, Terreeo- boomvit*d Capt. Ci* »k, and Mr. King, to attend h m on the Srtl, to Kaoo's residence. On our arrival there, we saw large qnanti- 3 tios of cloth scattered on the '(round ; alxitiil- ano of red and yellow feulhers tiisliMud to the fibres of cocoa-nut husks; and pKnty of hatcliets and iron ware, whir-h bad liVcii receiveil from us in barter. Not far from these was de|»osited an immense quanlily of various kinds of vegetables ; and ;it a little distance, a large herd of hog-:. We supposed at first, that the whole was in- tended a a present for us; but we weie in- formed by Kaireekeea, that it was a tribute to the king, from the inhabitants of that district. \Vt'. were no sooner seated than the bundles were brought, and laid severally at Terreeoboo's feet ; and the cloth, feathers, and iron, were displayed before him. 'ihe king was perfectly satisfied with this mark of tiuly from his pe(»ple ; and having select- ed about one third of the iron utensils, one> third of the feathers, and some pieces of cloth, he ordered these to be set aside by themselves ; and the remainder of the cloth, hogs, vegetables, &c. were afterwards pre- sented to Capt. Cook and Mr. King. 'J'he value and magnitude of this present, far ex- ceeded any thing that we had before receiv- ed. The whole was immediately conveyee on board. From the inhabitants in general, he exf)erienced great kindness; but the friend- ship shewn by the priests was constant and unbounded. On the other hand, Mr. Ki"S ''l!li' I r '1^ ^^w IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 M^^A |25 ■^ Li 12.2 ^ 1^ 12.0 I.I — 6" Photographic Sciences Corporation 13 WrST MAIN STREIT (716) 872-4503 'V ^ ■s \ \ 716 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. was anxious to conciliate (heir esteem ; in which he m happily sncceeded, that: when they were made acquainted with the time of our departure, h". was urged to remain be- hind, atid received overtures of the most liatterinGT kind. When he endeavoured to excMise himself, by alledging, that the Com- niodnie would not permit it, they proposed to conduct him to tlie mountains, and there conceal him till the departure of the ships. On Mr. King's assuring them that the ships would not sail without him, the king and Kaoo repaired to Capt. Cook, (whom they supposed to be his father) requesting for- mally, thatiie might be suffered to remain behind. The Commodore, unwilling to give a positive refusal, to a proposal so generously intended, assured them, that he could not part with him at present, but he should re- turn (hither the next year, when he would endeavour to oblige them. On Thursday, the 4th, of February, early in the morning, having unmoored, the Reso- lution and Discovery set sail, and cleared the harbour, attended by avast number of canoes. We proposed to shape our course for Mowee ; as we ' id been informed, that in the Island there ..as a tine harbour, aiid excellent wa- ter, but Capt Cook intended to finish first the survey of Owhyhee, before he went tititlter, hoping to meet with a road more shellered than Karakakooa Bay. We had not been long under sail, when the king, who had omitted to take his leave of Capt. Clerke, as not expecting our departure to be so sudden, came after the ships, accompa- nied by the young prince, in a sailing canoe, bringing with them ten large hogs, a great number of fowls, and a small turtle, (a great rarity) with bread-fruit in abundance. They aUo brought with them great quantities ot <>ocoa-nuto, plantains, and sugar-cane^. Be- sides other persons of distinction, who ac- companied the king, there was an old priest, who had always shewn a particular attach- ment to Capt. Clerke, »nd who had not been unrewarded for his civility. It being rather late when they reached the Discovery, they st-aid on board but a few hours, and then all departed, except the old priest, and souie girlS) who bad the king's jiermission 4 to remain on board, till they should arrive at some of the neigrhbouring Isles. We were now steering with a fine breeze, but just at the close of evening, to our great mortification, the wind died away, and a great swell succeeding, with a strong cur- rent setting right in tor shore, we were in the utmost danger, particularly the Disco- very, of being driven upon the rocks. At this time the old prie.st, who had been sent to sleep in the great cabin, leaped over- board unseen with a large piece of Russian silk, Capt. Clerke's property, and swam to shore. On Friday the 5th, we had calm weather, and made but little wav. Seeing a large canoe between us and the shore, we hove to for her coming up, and to our great sur- Erize perceived tlie old king, w!th several of is chiefs, having with them the priest wtui had stolen the silk, bound hand and foot, whom the king delivered to Capt. Clerkp, at the same^ time requesting that his fault niight be forgiven. The king being told his request was granted, unbound him, and set him at liberty ; telling the Captain, that seeing him with the silk, he judged it was not h!s own, therefore ordered him to he apprehended ; and had taken this methori of exposing him, for having injured h\v friend. This was a singular instance of jn<;- tice, which we did not expect to see among these people. As soon as they hud deliver^ ed the silk, which the king refused to ac- cept, they departed. Haying a light breeze in the night, we made a little progress to the northward. On Saturday the 6th, in the morning, we were a-breast of a deep bay, railed by the natives Toe-yah-yah. We flattered our- selves with finding a commoflious harbour here ; for we saw some fine ^^treunis of water to the N. E. and the whole ap|)eared to be well sheltered. These observations seeming to tally with the accounts given by Koah, who was now on board the Resolution, the master was sent in (he pinnace, with Koah as his guide, to examine the bay ; but, be- fore they set off, Koah altered his name, out of compliment to us, totbat of Britan- nee. In the afternoon, the ^ti^eattiir became AND ROUND THE WORLD. > ■ » 17 |iloon>y, onti siicli violent gusts of wind blew oiKthe land, that we were obliged to take in all the sails, and bring to, under the m)zen-sta}-SHil. Soon after the gale began, all the canoes left us; and Mi. Bligb, on his return, preserved an old woman and two men from drowning, whose canoe had been overset in the storm. We had several wo< men remaining on board, whom the natives, in their hurry to depart, had left to shift for themselves. Mr. Bligh reported, that he had landed at a village on the north side of the bay, where he was shewn some wells of water, that would not, by any means answer our purpose ; that he proceeded farther into the bay ; where, instead of finding good an- chorage, he observed the shores to be low, »)!d a flat bed of coral rocks extended along ihe coast, and upwards of a mile from the land ', the depth of water, on the outside, being twenty fathoms. Dnring this survey Britannee had contrived to slip away. His information having proved erroneous, be might, perhaps, be afraid of returning. In the evening the weather hecai^^e more mo- derate, when we again made sail ; but it blew so violently about midnight, as to split the fore and main-top sails. On Sunday the Tth, in the morning, we hent fresh sails. Being now about four or five leagues from the shore, and the weather very unsettled, the canoes would not venture oft' so that our female guests were under the ntroessity of remaining with us, though, at i\i\s time, much against their inclination ; for they were all exceedingly sea-sick, and many of (hem had left their infants on shore. The weather continued squally, yet we stood in for land, in the afternoon ; and being within three leagues of it, we saw two men paddling towards us. We conjectured, that they had been driven off the shore,' by the late boisterous weather ; and therefore stof)- ned the ship's wav, in ord«r to take them in. T«iese poor wretches were so exhausted by fiili{;ue, tiiat had n*"! strung ajipre- support ount oi ae kind .sit, the ive ha?- receiv. aw the to part price, he was and we, quf^nce Both tremely elusion whose iiiiper- owever, we have se with these strangers, are obliged to steer their course in tne midst of uncertainties, when the most serious consequences may be ex- pected by only imaginarj^ ofTcnces. How- ever true or false our conjectures may be, it is certain this day, the 12th, things went on in their usual quiet course. On Saturday the l;3th, at the approach of evening:, the ofticer who cunimanded the watering party of the Discovery, came to in- form Mr. King, that several chiefs were assembled near the beach, and were driving away the natives, who assisted the sailors in rolling the casks to the shore ; declaring, at the same time, that their behaviour seemed to be very suspicious, and he imagined they would give him some farther disturbance. Mr. King, agreeable to liis request, sent a marine w^b him, but permitted him to take only his side arms. The officer, in a short time returned, and informed Mr. King, that the inhabitant had armed themselves with stones and were become very tumultuous. Mr. King therefore went himself to the wa- tering place, attended by a marine with his musket. Seeing them approach, the Islan- ders threw away their stones, and, on Mr. King's application to some of the chiefs, the mob was dispersed. Every thing being now quiet, Mr. King went to meet Capt. Cook, who was coming on shore in the pinnace. He related to the Commodore all that had recently happened, and receive-d orders to fire ball ai the ot}«nders, should they again behave insolently, and in rase of their be- ginning to throw stones. In consequence of these orders, Mr. King commanded the corporal to give directions, that the sentinel's pieces should be loaded with ball, instead of shot. On our return to the tents, we heard a continued fire of muskets from the Discovery, which we observed to be di- rected at a canoe, that we saw paddling towards the shore, in great haste, and pur- sued by one of our small boats. We imuie diately concluded, that the firing was in consequence of some theft, and Capt. Cook ordered Mr. King to follow him with a marine armed, and to endeavour to seize the people as they came on shore. Accord* ingiy, we ran towards the place where we imagined the canoe would land, but were too late; the people having quitted it, and made their escape into the country before our arrival. We^vere at this time ignorant, that the goods had been already restored ; and thinking it probable, from the circum«* stances we had at first observed, that they might be of importance, for this reason, we were unwilling to relinquish our hopes of recovering them. Having therefore enquir-A ed of the natives which way the fugitives had gone, we followed them, till it was near dark, when judging ourselves to be three miles from the tents, and suspecting' that the natives, who frequently encouraged us in tht pursuit, were amusing us with false inform ition, we thought it in vain to con- tinue our search any longer, and therefore returned to the beach. During our absence a difi'erence of a more serious nature had happened. The officer who liad been dis- patched in the small boat after the thieves-, and who was returning on board with the goods that had been restored, seeingp CapK Cook and Mr. King engaged in the pursuit of the offenders, seized a canoe which was drawn upon the shore. This canoe belongs ed to Pareea, our friend, who at that instan^, arriving from on board the Discovery, claim* ed his property, and protested his innocence.' However, the officer persisted in detaining if, in which he was encouraged by the crew of the pinnace, then waiting for theCommo- dore. The consequence of tiiis imprudent conduct was, what might have been expect-^ ed : a sciifUe ensued ; and Pareea unfortu^ nately was knocked "ook, at a con9i-t> derable distance from the mi e. The pin- nace was plundered immediately by th« natives, and would have been entirely de- molished, had n*>t Pareea interposed; who had not only re*'«vereil from his blow, bni had also forgot it at the same instunt. lie ordered the crowd to di»|)er«e, nud b«rKiM«- ed to our people to come and take pos<$esMOrt ^ 5' m ft 'if n m 720 VOYAGE TOWAllDS THE NOUTH POLE, ofthe piiniarc; mid tfr^erwards assured tlietn, titiit he would use iiis iuflueiice to net the tliiu'^s resfoi'fid which hiui been taken out of it. Alter their departure, he t'olhnved them in iiis cuiioe, carrjiiig^ tiienia inidsitip- Uian's cap, and some other urlioles ; and ex- pressing much concern al what had happen- ed, bagged to know, if the Orono would kill hiili ? and whether he might be permit- ted to go on board tlie next day ? He was assured that he would be well received ; upon which he joined noses with the officers (their usual token of amity) and paddled over to Kowrowa. When these particulars were related to Capt. Cook, he was exceed- ingly concerned ; and when the Captain and Mr. King were returning on board, the former expressed his fears, that these Is- landers would oblige him, though much sigainst his mclination. to use violent mea< sures with them ; addmg, they must not be permitted to suppose that they had gained an advantage over us. It was too late to lake any steps this evening, the Commodore therefore only gave<>rders, that every native should be immediately turned out of the ships. This order having been executed, Mr. King returned to his station on shore ; and the events of the day having much abat- ed our former confidence in the natives, we posted a double guard on the Morai, with orders to send to Mr. King and let him know> if any ofthe natives were seen lurk- ing about tlie beach. At eleven o'clock, live ofthe natives were seen creeping round tlie bottom of the Morai : they approached silently with great caution, but, perceiving they were discovered, immediately retired out of sight. At midnight, one of them ventured very near the observatory, when one of the ceuiiuels fired over him ; where- upon, he, with some others, fled with great precipitation, and we hud no farther moles- tation during the remainder of the night. The temper of these Islanders was now totally changed ; and l(>r sonr.e days past, as may be st^n from our journal, they became more and more troiiblesoine. In the oourse of this day several parties of them were bnsy in rolling stones from the edire of the hill* with a view, as we supposed to annoy 8 the ships,; but these were at too g; cat a distance to receive an;f^ daroagq ; bowt Vit, the Commodore looking upon this as mi insult, ordered some of our great guns to be fired among them, and, in less than ten minutes, not an Indian was to be seen near the place. In the afternoon, Terieeohoo came on board, and complained of our hay. iiig killed two of his people, intimating, at the same time, that they had not the least intention of hurting us. He continued on board near two hours, amusing himselt' with seeing our armourers work, and re- quested that they might be permitted to make him a puhooa, (an instruinent used in battle, when they come to close quarters) whicii was immediately done. Sunday, the 14lh, of February^ 177f>. This is that memorable day, in which are comprized the afiecting inci«lents, and nielan> clioly particulars, that concluded with the ussassiiiution of our beloved and hoi;oured Commodore. Very early in the morning, a party of the islanders were perceived who made a great lamentation, and moved slowly along to the beating of a drumt that gave scarcely a stroke in a minute. From thii circumstance our people supposed, they were burying the dead who hud been killed the preceding day. At day break, Mr. King repaired on board the Resolution, in order to examine the time>keeper. In his way thither, he was hailed by the Discovery, und received the alarming information, thnt theii^ cutter had been stolen, in some time of the night, from the buoy, where it was moored. The boat's painter had beeen cut two fathoms from the buoy, and the re- mainder of the rope was gone with the boat. This gave cause sufficient to suH>ect that some villany was hatching by the Islanders, and that ill consequences would follow such a daring theft. With these thoughts Mr. King hastened op board the Resolution, whose whole company were by this time in motion. On his arrival, he found ihe ma* rines arming, the crew preparing to warp the ship nearer to the shore, aid Capt. Cook loading his double barren ^ ^n. lie began with a relation of what had happened in tbe night at the Morai, when the Commodore ■: ' vt AND ROUND THE WORi.D. * 7^1 ifiteiTupled him with 8om(? eagerness, and from every direotion ; and tliat tJiey assnm- infbrmed him of the loss of the Discovery's ed a very ditterent countenance to what •utter, and of the preparations he was mak- they usually wore uj)()n all former occa- inir to recover it ; addinpr, that- he< was re- sions ; he therefore, when arrived at his solved to seize Terreeoboo, and- to. confine station on shore, issued strict yrders to the him on board till the boat.shonid be'return- niarines, tu continue within the tent, to ed. It had been Capt. Cook's usual practice, charge their niuskets with ball, and not, on in all the Islands of the Pacific Ocean he any. consideruiion, to quit tlieir arms. 'Jhis iiad visited, whenever any thina: of^conse- done, he waited upon old Kaoo, juid the quence had been stolen by the natives, to priests, at their respective huts, and explain. get their kinff, or some of the principal ed to them, as well -as he was able, the rea- eaiees on hoard*' where he de'tained them as son of the hostile preparations, which had )n.joners, till the property that had been so exceedingly alarmed them, lie found osl was restored; and this method having they were no strangers to our loss of the cut- litherto proved successful, he meant to pur- ter, and assured them, that though tiiu sue it on the present occasion. In conse- Couiino.Tlie Commodore perceiving that his of the Wariiorsof Owhyhee were clqthed i^ain design '^vas not suspected, the next in tjieir^lhilitary mats, though without anns ; step he took',. was to enquire for the king, that they n^ere gathering together in a body and the jwo boys, his sons, who had been 4 Z IrR.'. u ']''•> V'' ti'i • ii''p •r ,i- '22 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. his constant ^ests on board the Resolution. Ill a short time the bovs returned, with some of the natives who had been sent in searcli of them ; and conducted Capt. Cook to the habitation where Terreeoboo had slept. The old king had just awoke, and the Captain addressed him in the mildest terms; assurini; him, that no violence was' intended against his person, or any of his people ; but only against those who had been guilty of a most unprecedented act of robbery, by cutting from h^r mooring, one of the ship's boats, without which, they could neither conveniently water, nor carry on the necessary ^communication with the shore ; requiring of the king at the same time, to give orders for the cutter to be re- stored without delay ; and requesting his company with him on board, till his orders should be carried into execution. Terree- olioo, in reply, protested his total ignorance of the theft ; said he was very ready to as- sist in discovering the author of it, and i^hould lie glad to see him punished ; but he shewed great unwillingness to trust his per- son with those whohadso lately exercised un- usual severities against his people. He was told, that the tumultuous appearance oi' his people, and their repeated depredations, made some uncommon severities necessary ; bi>t that not the least hurt should be done to the meanest inhabitant of his Island by any person belonging to the ships ; and all that was necessary for the continuance of peace, was, to pledge himseH for the honesty of his people. With that view, and that only, he came to re'qiiest the king to place eonfidence in him, and to make the Resolu- tion his home, as the most eflectual means ot putting a stop to the robberies that were daily and hourly committed by his people, both at the tents, and on board the ships, and which were now so daring as to become insufferable. The king upon this remon- strance, arose and accepted the invitation. In about half an hour, -Terreeoboo set out with Capt. Cook, to attend him on board ; and everv thing had a prosperous' appear- ance. 1 he two boys were already in the pinnace, and the rest of the party were ap- proaching the water-side ; when a woman, 2 named Kanee-kabereea. the mother of the boys, and one of Terreeoboo's favourite wives, followed him, and with many tears and entreaties besought him nut to venture on board. At the same time, two warriors who came along with her, laid hold of the king, insisting he should proceed no fartlter, and obliged him to sit down. A large body of the Islanders had by this time got toge- ther,' who had probably been alarmed hy the discharging of the great guns, and the hostile appearances in the bay. They now began to behave outrageously, and to insult tb« guard. Thus situated, Mr. Philips, Lieutenant of the marines, perceiving that his men were huddled togsther in the crowd, consequently unable to use their arms, should there be a necessity for so doing, proposed to the Commodore to draw them up along the rocks, close to the edge of the water ; upon which the Lieu tenant received orders to march, and, if any one opposed, to fire upon, or instantly dispatch him ; but the natives readily making way for them to f»ass, Mr. Philips drew them up in one ine, within about thirty yards of the place where Terreeoboo was sitting. The old king continued all this time on the ground. His eyes diffused gloomy discontent; his head drooped, and his whole countenance was iinpressed with every mark of terror and dejection ; as if he was possessed with a foreboding consciousness of the catastrophe, in the bloody tragedy that was now about to be acted. Capt. Cook, unwilling tu abandon the object which occasioned him to come on shore, urged him most earnestly to proceed : but, on the other hand, if the king appeared inclined to attend him, the surrounding chiefs interposed : at first they had recourse to entreaties; but afterwards to force and violence, and even insi&ted on his remaining on shore ; and the word was given, that Tootee was about to carry off their king, and to kill him. Capt. Cook, at length, finding that the alarm had spread too generally, and bieinc; sensible that there was not a probability nf getting Terreeoboo off without inuch blomi- shed, thought it most prudent to give up the point; obierving to Mr. Philips, that i^ * .» ^- i .e- > ^- '* % ■f**!*ww»'v- Ji»j y » + * «• Rii -f •.*". • f ^ 'm^^' Q 1^1 U Q 4» :r^' .*^y' *'4 #^ •A ^» ■"*»■ ■«*--»■ AND ROUND THR WOnLD. TJfJ *'il:. woulcl be impossible; to compel the kinff to go on boardi without running' the risk of killing a great number of tiie inli;)bit;«nts. Tiiuf) the enterprise was uhnndtnucl l>y Cap- tiiin Cook ; nor did it appesir, thut his per- son was in the least de^n^'e of dans^er, till an accident happened, the rei>ort of which brou|^ht forth in an instant a number of warriors from the crowd, and occasioned a fatal turn to the whole at^air. I'he boats stationed across the bay, haviniif tired at some war ( anoes, for attem|>tin;; to get out, had unfortunately killed one of their princi- pal chiefs. Intelligence of his death arriv- ed at the spot where the Commodore then was, just as he had parted from the king, and was walking slowly towards the shore. The k'-erment it occasioned was immediately too conspicuous ; the women and children were immediately sent away, and tbe men .soon put on their war mats, ,.a fi tfjarmed themselves with spears and ston^^^ne of the natives having provided himself with two of these missive weapons, advanced towards Capt. Cook, flourishing a long iron spike, or pahooa, in defiance, and threaten- ing to throw the stone. The Captain made signs for him to desist, but the man persist- ing in bis insolence, and repeating his me- naces with strange grimaces, he was provok- ed to tire a charge of small shot at him ; but the warrior being defended by his mat, which the shot could not penetrate, this served only to irritate and tncou-age the Is- landers, whose fighting men now pushed forward, throwing whole vollies of stones at the marines. One of the chiefs attempted to stab Mr. Phillips with his pahooa, (some say the very same that was made by our armourers, at the request of the king, the day before,) but not succeeding in his at- tempt, he received from him a blow with the butt end of his musket. A general at- tack with stones succeeded, and the quarrel became general. On our side, the guns from the ships began to pour in their tire upon the multitude of natives, as did like- wise the marine guard, and those from the boats; nevertheless,' though the slaughter among the' Islanders was great, yet, enraged as diey were, they stood an incessant fire with astonishing intrepidity; and, wifhrmt giving time for the marines to charge »;4ain, they rushed in upon thetn with horrid shouts and yells. What folh>wed was a scene of horror and confusion, which can more easily be conceived than related. Four of the marines, corporal Thomas, and three pri- vates, namely, Hinks, Allen, and Fad^'-et, retreated among the rocks, and fell victims to the fury of the enemy. Three others were dangerously wounded ; and the Lieutenant, who had received a stab between the shoul- ders with a pahooa, having fortunately re- served his fire, shot the man who had wound* ed him, just as he was going to repeat his blow. The last time our Commodore was distinctly seen, he was standing at the wa- ter's edge, ordering the boats to cease firing, and pull in ; when a base assassin, coming behind him, and striking him on the head with his club, felled him to the ground, in such a direction, that he lay with his face prone in the water. A general shout was set up by the Islanders on seeing the Cap- tain tall, and his body was dragged on shore, w here he was surrounded by the enemy, who, snatching the dagger from each other's hands, displayed a savage eacferness to join in his destruction. It should seem that vengeance was directed chiefly atence of a South- ern continent, about which the learned of all nations were in doubt ; settled the boun- daries of the earth and sea ; and demonstrat- ed the impracticability of a N. W. passage from the Atlantic to the great Southern Ocean, for which our ablest geographers had contended, and in pursuit of which vast sums had been spent in vain, and many valuable mariners had miserably perished. His death was doubtless premature; yet he i i W ! ii ' .' I' ,1- I Vi ,1.1 '■ M ' mm' Iw 724 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLl^ lived to accomplifili the ^reat iindertakinqr for wliioli tie seemed |mrticulariy designed. How sincerely his loss was lamented, {we speak herein the lanB:nag:e of his panegyrist) by those who owed their stcnrity to his skill and conduct, and every consolation to his tenderness and humanity, it is impossihle to describe; and the task would be equally difficult to represent the horror, dejection, and dismay, which followed so dreadful and unexpected a catastrophe. Let us therefore turn from so mournfuf a scene, to the pleits. ing contemplation of his virtues, character, and public services, the hisiory of whieli our readers will find in the subsequent chapter. ' .<« - v . i .. Ss CHAP. XV. . 1;. Memoirs of the life and puhl'tc services of Captain James Cook ; His birth and parentage ; Edacn tion and early situation in life ; His inclination for the sea, and first emptopuenl in the merchant's service; Tries his fortnne in his Majesty's ship, the Eagle ; Js made a Lieutenant ; His bchn. viour under Sir William JJarnahy, and when engaged in the active scenes of the war in America; His appointments, by the recommendations of Lord Cottiiltt xtnd Sir Hugh Palliser ; His Jirsl voyage to the South Seas ; His second, to complete the discovery of the Southern Hemisphere ; . His third and last voyage, in order to discover a North West passage ; An account ofhisjamily^ and their pensions ; Observations on his character and death ; Particulars which happened subsc- tjuent to his death; Jiravcry of Lieut ;nant Philips ; The Islanders forced to retire; Situation oj' our party at the Morai ; Annoyed by stmies ; An attempt to storm the Morai ; Quitted by our people; A short truce, and pacific meisures adopted; Mr. King sent to obtain a conjiertncc uilk some of the chiefs of Ovhyhee; His interview with Koah ; Canlcmp/uovs behaviour of the nc- lives, and precautions taken on our side; Apart of Captain Cook's body brought; Farther pro- ■ vocations from the natives ; Our watering parties harrassed with stoves • The village of Kakooa burned; Instance of bravery in ime of the natives ; A procession headed hy Kaireekeea ; The hones of Captain Coak brought on board ; They are committed to the deep with the usvalfunerd ceremonies. , ' ••; 'r* <'«i»'i ■'> •'i*'" J,i liy.ii'iii > HAVING related the untimely Tate of our excellent Comniiinder, Captain Cook, we now proceed to ^\\e our readers jiome new and authentic particulars of the life of this great navigator ; the whole, v. e will venture to affirm, niakiui? a more cor- rect and complete historical narrative, on so interesting a subject, than has hitherto ap- peared in any edition whatever of Captain Cook's voyages, under whatever authority published, or however pompously set forth. The late Captain James Cook, the subject of these memoirs, was born at Marton, in the North Hiding of Yorkshire, on Febru- ary t4ie 3rd, 1728. In this particular, we jjiay contradict the ignorant assertions foist- ed on the public by editors of publications 4 of the like kind with this ; but we rest niir credibility on the authc>rity of the Rev. JVIr. Cireenside, whose certificate, taken frotn the register of births in his parish, is now in the possession of our publisher. 'J'he fallit;r of Capt. Cook was a day labourer to ii farmer, and lived in a small village surroinxi' ed with mud walls ; who afterwards removed to Great Ayton ; where he was employed as a peasant by the late Thomas Scuttovve^ Esq. with whom he was assisted by yonngCook, his son, in the dilfereut branches of husban- dry. At the age of thirteen, this youth was put under tlie tuition of Mr. PuHen, a w^iioul- master of Ayton, by whom he was instructed in the arts of writing, common book-keffi- ing i<,u. and he is said^ to have sh. \ u ao AND ROUND THE WORLD. lui uncommon genWiit in his application to the several rules of vulprar arithmetic. In Juiiunry, ]74o, at the a^e of seventeen, his father bound him apprentice, to learn llie <;rucc -ry and haberdashery business, at Snaith : but his natural inclination not having been consulted on this occasion, he soaskin ; in which vessel lie continued al! that year, in the ]3nltic trade. In 1753, lie entered on boarti his majesty's ship the Eagle ; " havinpf a mind," as he expressed himself, " to try his fortune that way." Some lime after, the Eayle sailed with another friuate on a cruise, in which they were very successful. In the 3>ear 1758, we find this risin;^' mari- ner, master of the Northumberland, the tlag ship of Lord Ccdville, who had then the com- mand of a squadron stationed on the coast of America. It was here, as he hasot'len been heard to say, that durini^ a hard winter, he lirst read JEuolid, and applied himself lo the study of the mathematics and astronomy, 'tvithont any assistance than what a few books, and bis own industry aflbrded. At the same time, that he thus found means to cultivate his understanding, improve his mind, and supply thedeficiencesof an early education, he was engaged in most of the busy and active scenes of the war in Ame- rica. At the siege of Quebec, Sir Charles Saunders committed to his charge, the exe- cution of services of the first importance in the naval department. He piloted the boats to the attack of Montmorency; conducted the embarkation to the heights of Abraham, examined the passage;, and laid buoys for the security of the large ships in prorredlng: up the liver. The crnirup^e and adilrcss wiili whieli he acquitted himseit'in these strviees, gained him the warm friendship of Sir Charles Snunders and X.ord Colville. who continued to patronize him during the rest of their lives, with the greatest zeal and affec- tion. On the 1st, of April, 17(10, he received a commission as a lieutenant, anil soon at'tei a specimen of those abilities, which recoin- nieiuied him to the commands, in the exe- cution whereof he so highly dis|)layed iVis merit, that his name will be handed down to posterity, as one of the mostsUilfiil navi- ators which this country has produced. In t'fJ.j, he was with Sir Williain Barnaby, on the Jamaica station ; and behaved in such a manner as gained him the approbation of the ;uiiniral. At the conclusion of the war, he was appointed, through the recommenda- tion of Lord Colville, and Sir Hugh Palliser, to survey the Gulph of St. Lawrence, and the coasts of Newfoundland. In this em- ployment he continued till the year 17G7, when the Royal Society resolved, that it would be proper to send a navigator into the South Seas, to observe the transit of tl>e planet Venus over the sun's disk : and Otaheite being fixed upon, the Endeavour, a ship built for the coal trade, was put into commission, and the command of her given to Lieutenant, the late Capt. Cook, who was appointed with Mr. Charles Green, to observe the transit. In this voyage he was accompanid by Joseph Banks, Esq. since Sir Joseph, and Dr. Solander, and other in- genious artists. The transit of Venus was observed in different parts of the Island, and the Captain returned, after having been ab- sent almost three years, in which period he had madediscoTeries equal to all the naviga- tors of his country, from the time of Colum- bus to the present. From this period, as his services increased in usefulness to the public, so his reputation advanced to a height too great for our encomiums to reach. Perhaps no science ever received greater ad- ditions from the labours of a single man, than geography has done from those of Capt. Cook ; who, in his first voyage to m' 'i 1 i I,- 4f. ml mi ;li.':-- 720 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NdRTH POLE, the South Seas discovered the Society Isles ; determined the insularity of New Zealand ;' discovered (he straits which separate the two Islands, called after his name ; and made a complete survey of both. He after- wards explored the eastern coast of New Holland, hitherto unknown ; an extent of 27 deg'. of iat. or upwards of two thousand miles. Soon after the Captain's retut n to England, it was resolved to equip two siiips to com- plete the discovery of the Southern hemis- phere. It had long* been a prevailing idea, that the unexplored part contained another continent. To ascertain the fact was the principal object of this expedition ; and that nothinur might 6e omitted that could tend to facilitate the enterprize, two ships were pro- vided ; the one, the Keso!ution, under the command of Capt. Cook ; the other, the Adventure, commanded by Capt. Furneaux. In this second expedition round the world, Capt. Cook resolved the great problem of a Southern Continent ; having so completely 3raversed that hemisphere, as not to leave a possibility of its existence, unless so near the pole, as to be beyond the reach of navi- gation. In this voyage, New Calednoia, the largest Island in the Southern Pacific Ocean, except New Zealand, was discovered ; as was also the Island of Georgia ; and an un- known coast, which the Captain named Sandwich land ; and having twice visited the tropical seas, he settled the situations of the old discoveries, and made several new ones. The want of success which attended Capt. Cook'sattempt to discover a Southern Conti- nent, did not set aside another plan which had been recommended some time before. This was no other than the finding out a N. W. passage, which the fancy of some chimerical projectors had conceived to be a practicable scheme. His services were re- quired for this arduous undertaking, and he offered them without hesitation. This third and last voyage is distinguished by the ex- tent and importance of its discoveries. Not to mention several smaller Islands in the Southern Pacitic, Capt. Cook discjovered the group, north of the equinoxiui line, called 6 Sandwich Islands; which, on account of their situation and productions, may perhaps become an object of more consequence, thnu any other discovery in the South Sea. He explored what had !remained before un- known of the western coast of America, an exter.t of thirty-seven hundred miles ; ascer- tained the nroximity of the two continents of Asia ana America ; sailed through the straits between them, and surveyed the coasts on each side, so far as to be satisfied of the impracticability of a passage 'in that hemisphere from the Atlantic into the Paci- fic Ocean, by an eastern or western coast. in short, he completed the hydography of the. habitable globe, if we except the Japa- nese Archipe.lago, and the sea of Amur, which are still known imperfectly by Euro* peans. Throughout this voyage it must be confessed, that his services as a navi(>;ator, are important and meritorious. The me- thods which he invented, and so successfully put in practice, of preserving the heaitli, (and con^ecjuently the lives) of seamen, will transmit his name to future ao^es, as a friend and benefactor of mankind. It is well known among those who are conversant in naval history, that the advantages which have been sought, through the medium of long sea voyages, have always been purchas- ed at a dear rate. That dreadful disorder which is peculiar to this service, must, with- out exercising an unwarrantable degree of tyranny over our seamen, have been an in- superable obstacle to our enterprizes. It was reserved for Capf. Cook to convince the world, that voyages might be protracted 14 three, or even four years, in unknown regions, and under every change of climate, without affecting the health, in the smallest degree, and even without diminishing the probability of life. A few months after his departure from England, notwithstanding he was then absent, the Royal Society voted h'lm Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal, as a reward for the account, which he had trans- mitted to that body, of the method taken to preserve the health of the crew of his ship. Capt. Cook was a married man, and left several children behind him. On each of these his majesty has settled a pension of AND ROUND THE WORLD. TVf un- twenty-five pounds p year, and two hundred pounds per annum, on his widow. The constitution of this great and unparal- lelled navigator, was robust both by nature and habit ; his body having been inured to labour, and rendered capable of undergoing the severest hardships. His stomach bore, without complaining, the most coarse and ungrateful food. Indeed, he submitted with an easy self-denial, to wants of every kind, which he endured with remarkable indiffer- ence. The qualities of his mind were of the same hardy vigorous kind with those of his body. Ills uuderstaiidiug was strong and (jnick-siglited : his judgment, in whatever related lo the services he was engaged in, (idick and sure: his designs were bold and liaring, yet manly and discreet. His cou- rage was cool and determined, and accom- panied with an admiral presence of mind, m the moment of danger. His manners were plain and unaffected. Some have censured his temperas subject tu hastiness and passion ; but let it be con- sidered, that these were counteracted, and frequently disarmed, by a disposition bene- volent and humane. There are those who have blamed Capt. Cook for his severity to the natives of different Islands which we visited ; but it was not to these alone he was severe in his discipline. He never suffered any fault in his own people, though ever so trivial, to escape unpunished. If they were charged with insulting a native, or injuring liim in his property, if the fact was proved, the offender seldom escaped unpunished. By this impartial distribution of .qual jus- tice, the natives themselves conceived so liiirh an idea of his wisdom, and his power too, that they paid him the honours bestow> ed on their Eatooa, or good spirit. This is ctrtain, that a most distinguishing feature in Capt. Cook's character, was that unreuntting perseverance in the pursuit of his object, which was not only superior to ilie opposition of dangers, and the pressure of hardships, but even exempt from the M'ant of ordinary relaxation. During the tiiree long voyages in which he was engaged, hi$ !. ugerness and activity were never in the least abated. No incidental .temptation 7 could detain him for a moment ; even those intervals of recreation, which sometimes oc- curred unavoidably, and were looked fur by us with a longing which persons who have ex- perienced the fatigues of .service will readily excuse, were submitted to by him with a certain impatience, whenever they could not be employed in making further provisions for the prosecution of his designs. In the course of this work, we have faithfully enu- merated all the particular instances in which these qualities were displayed, durinjr the great and important tnterprizes in which he was engaged: and we have likewise stated the result of those services, under the two principal heads to which they may be refer- red, those of geography and navigation, eoch of which we have placed in a separate and distinct point of view. We cannot close these memoirs, without taking a slight retrospective view of the tragi- cal end of this truly great and worthy sea officer. It was imagined by some of those who were present, that the njarines and those who were in the boats, fired without Capt. Cook's orders, and that he was anxious to prevent the farther effusion of blood ; it is therefore probable, that on this occasion, his humanity proved fatal to him ; for it was observed, that while he faced the natives, no violence had been ottered him ; but when he turned about to give directions to the boats, he imuiediately received the fatal blow. Whether this was mortal or not, it is impossible for any one todeteiinine ; but we were informed by a gentleman ou board the Discovery, whose veracity is un- questionable, that there was time sufiicient to have secured the body of our brave Com- mander, had a certain lieutenant, who com- manded a b.oat of the same ship, pulled in, instead of making off. We do not mention his name, but if our information is an unde- niable fact, the dh.stardly officer merits justly that contempt and poverty, to which it is said he is at present reduced. We beg leave further to observe, that the natives had certairhr no intention at first of destroy- ing Capt. Cook, or any of his party. The cause first origius'ted in the death of the Ereey who was shot by one of our people in m '.4- t mi 1 1 HI m 7«8 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, the boat : it was this circumstance winch alarmed them, and, in consequence of this it was that they armed themselves. At this period Cu[)t. Cook mis:ht have returned on board with safety ; but he was unfortunate in missing the man who behaved insolf nt to him, and shooting another; he was unfor- tunate in the tiring of the marines ; and equally so in the tiring of the people in the launch ; all which happened in the space of a few minutes. In short, all the causes that brought on the death of this much lamented Circumuavigator, were prole for some time kepi up a constant fire from most of the boats, (which, during the whole transaction, were at no greater distance from the land than twenty yards,) in order to afford their unfor- tunate companions, if any of them should still remain alive, an opportunity of efiecting their escape. These efforts, seconded by a few guns, that were, at the same time, fired from the Resolution, having at length com- pelled the enemy to retire, a small boat, manned by five midshipmen, pulled to<- 8 wards the shore, where thy perceived the bodies lying on the ground without any signs of life. However, they judged it dan- gerous to attempt to bring them off with so inconsiderable a force ; and their ammunt- tion being nearly consumed, they returned to the ships, leaving tlie bodies in possession of the natives, together with ten stands of arms. Afifer the general consternation, which the news of this misfortune had diffused through), out the whole company of both ships, had in souie degree subsided, their attention was called to the party at the morai, where the mast and sails were on shore, guarded l)y only six marines. It is difficult to describe the emotions that agitated the minds of Mr. King and his attendants, at this station, during the time in which these occurrences had happened, at the other side of the hay. Being at the distance only of a mile from the village of Kowrowa, they could distinctly perceive a vast multitude of people collected on the spot where Capt. Cook had just l)e- fore landed. They heard the filing of the muskets, and observed an uncommon bustle and agitation among the crowd. They after- wards saw the Islanders retreating, the boats retiring from the shore, and passing and re- passing, with great stillness, between the ships. Mr. King's heart soon mis-gave him on this occasion. Where so valuable a life was concerned, he could not avoic. being alarmed by such new and threatening a\h- pearances. Besides this, he knew that Capt. Cook, from a long series of success, in his transactions with the natives of this ocean, had acquired a degree of confidence, which might, in seme ill-fated moment, put him too much of}' his guard ; and Mr, King now saw all the dangers to which that confidence might lead, without deriving much consola- tion from the consideration of the experience which had given rise to it. His first care, on hearing the report of the muskets, was to assure the Islanders, considerable num- bers of whom were assembled round the wall of our consecrated field, and .seemed at a loss how to account fur what they had beard and seen, that they should meet with ;d the i any t dan- ith so innni- turnecl session nds ot' id) the iroug'ii- IS, had ion was ere the ded by lescribe s of Mr. station, irrences he bay. lie from istinctly loUected just he- y of the in bustle ley after- he boats and re- een the jave him e a hfe o being ning aj)- lat Capt. s, in his ,s ocean, e, which )>ut him jnp now ntidence consola- cperience rst care, .ets, \va!4 )le nura- 3und the eerned at hey l>ad neet with AND KOUNI) THE WORLD. TJD no molestation ; and tliat, at all events, he was inclined to continue on peaceable terms with them. In thisvsiination, Mr. Kini?and his attend- ants remained till thf* boats had returned on board, when Capt. Gierke, perceiving by means of his telescope, that our party was surrounded by the natives, who, he thought, designed to attack them, ordered two four- pounders to be fired at the Islanders. These guns, though well aimed, did no mischief; but they gave the natives a convincing proof of their powerful effects. A rocoa-nut tret, under which some of them were sitting, was broken in the middle by one of the balls ; and the other shivered a rock, which stood m an exact line with them. As Mr. King had, just before, given them the .strongest assurances of their safety, he was extremely mortified at this act of hostility, and, to pre- vent its being repeated, instantly dispatched a boat to inform Capt. Gierke, that he was, at present, on the most amicable terms with (he Istrmders, and that, if any future occa- sion should arise for changing his conduct towards them, he would hoist a jack, as a signal for Capt. Gierke to afford him his assistance. Mr. King waited for the return ofthti boat with the greatest impatience; nnd after remaining for the space of a quarter of an hour, under the utmost anxiety and suspence, his fears were at length confirm- ed, by the arrival of Mr. Bligh, with orders to strike the tents immediately, and to send on board the sails, thai were repairing. At the same instant, Kaireekeea having also re- ceived information of the death o^ Capt. Cook, from a native who had arrived from the other side of the bay, approached Mr. King, with great dejection and sorrow in iiis countenance, enquiring whether it was true. At this time the situation of the party 'was highly critical and important. Not only their own lives, but the issue of the expedi- tion, and the return of at least one of the tships, were involved in the same common danger. They had the mast of the Resolu- tion, and the greater part of the sails, on shore, protected by only half a dozen mi- rint's. The loss of these would have been h're'>ai'able : and though the Islanders bad 6 A not as yet testified the smallest disposition to molest the uarty, it was difhcult to answer for the alteration, which the intelli- gence of the transaction at Kowrowa might produce. Mr. King therefore thought pro- per to dissemble his belief of the death of Capt. Cook, and to desire Kaireekeea to discourage the report ; apprehending that either the fear of our resentment, or the suc- cessful example of their countrymen, miprht perl);ips lead them to seize the favourable opportunity, which at this time presented itself, of giving us a second blow. He, at the same tim^, advised him to bring old Kaoo, and the other priests, into a large house adjoining to the inorai, partly from a regard to their safety, in case it should hav« been found necessary to have recourse to violent measures ; and partly from a desire of having him near our people, in order to rnake use of his authority with the natives if it could be instrumental in maintaining I eace. Having stationeJ the marines on the top of the inorai, whi'^li formed a strong and advantageous post, he intrusted the com- mand to Mr. Bligh, who received the most positive directions to art solely on the defen- sive ; and he then went on board the Disco- very, in order to confer with Capt. Gierke, on the dangerous situation of our affairs. He had no sooner left the spot, than the Is-* landers began to annoy our yieople with stones ; and just after he had reached thi shi|), he heard the firing of the marine^ He therefore hastily returned on shor<»» where he found affairs growing every mo- ment more alarming. The natives werf providing arms, and putting on their mats ; and their numbers augmented very fast, H« also observed several large bodies advancing towards our i)arty along the cliff', by whicb the village of Kakooa, is separated from the north side of the bay where Kowrowa is situate. At first they attacked our people with stones from behind the walls of their inclosures, and meeting with no resistance, they soon became more daring. A few cou< rageous fellows, having crept along the beach, under cover of the rocks, suddenly prcisented th«mselve»at the foot of the inorai, id U l\-\ 't! 'if liirl 'I' it m^' 'if. li' 1 1 :o VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, will) an intention of storming it on the side iitxt ilie sfa, wbic'li was its only accessible pait ; ami they wtre not dislodtired before liiey Imd stood a considerable qnaatity of shot, and had seen one of their nnniher fall. I'lic aa«;iz:ng' coiirajfe of one of these assail- aists deserves to be recorded. Having re- turned with a view of carrying oft* his com- fKinion, amidst the fire of our whole party, he rtct>ived a wound, which obliged hira to quit the body, and retire ; but, a few ininntes afterwards, he again mode his ap- pearance, and receiving another wound, was nndi^r the necessity of retreating a second time. At that moment, Mr. King arrived ot the niorai, and saw this man return a third time, faint from the loss of blood and fatigue. Being informed of what had hap- pened, he forbad tlie soldiers to lire ; and the Islander was sulf'ered to carry off his friend, which he was just able to acccom- Eiish ; anViuch atJording Mr. King access to the f)rie>ts, he sent one of them to exert his en- deavours to bring his countrymen to some terms, and to propose to them, that if they v.ixiid oat, hold- Cautionary severity is ever invidious, and ing in his liand a white flag; the meaning ' rigour of a preventive measure, when it of which, from an universal shout of joy is the most successful, leaves iis expediency from the natives, he had the satisfaction to the least apparent. find was inmiediately understood. The wo- During these deliberations, and while we men instantly returned from the side of the were thus engaged in concerting .some plan hill, whither they had retired ; the men for our future operations, a very numerous threw off their mats, and all seated them- coucourseof the natives still kept possession selves together by the sea-side, extending^ of the shores and some of them coming off their arms, and inviting Mr. King to land, in canoes, approached within pistol-shot of Notwithstanding such behaviour seemed the ships, and insulted us by various marks expressive of a fri«>ndly disposition, Mr. of defiance and contempt. It was extremely King could not avoid entertaining suspicions difficult to restrain the seamen fiom the nie of its sincerity. But wh«n h« saw Koab '4 m M m m iii: m m- m w I I ■ 73i VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLK. ♦litli extraordinary boldi>ess and assurance, swiintnin^? offto'vards the boat, with a v hite il.y^ in h»s hand, lie thouifht proper to return this mark of confidence, and accordingly reciMved him into the boat, though he was armed ; a circumstance which did not con- tribute to lessen Mr. King's suspicions. He had indeed lonij harboured an unfavourable opinion of Koah. The priests had always represented him as a person of a malicious temper, and no frienil to us; and the re|)eated dctpoiions of his fraud and treachery, bad convinced us of the truth of their assertions. Besiiies the melancholy transactions of the morning;, in which he was seen performing a principal part, inspired Mr. King with tfie uimost horror at findin?; himselfpo near him; and as he approached him with feigned tears, and embraced him, ]Mr. King was so distrust- ful of his intentions, that he took hold of the point of the pahooa, which the chief held in his hand, and turned it from him. He in- formed the Islajider that he had come to demand the body of Capt. Cook, and to de- clare war against the natives, unless it was restored without delay. Koah assured him that this should be done as soon as possible, and that he would ffo himself for that pur- Kose ; and after requesting a piece of iron of Ir. King, with marks of great assurance, he lea|)ed into the water, and swam ashore, calling out to his countrymen, that we were all friends again. Otir people waited with great anxiety near an hour for his return. J)uring this interval, the other boats had approached so near the shore, e requisite in returning on shore. They tur- ther told us, that the chiefs were eatver lo take revenge on us for the death of their countrymen ; and particularly cautioned ipeared from the few nu n might have lieen severely felt by inforujation <»f these nun, that seventeen of us, ilurinj; the remainder of our voyage: their eonntrymen were slain in the first whereas, the delaying to put onr menaces notion, at the villaije of Kowrowa, five of into execution, thun<<:li on the one hand, it whom were chiefs ; and that Kaneena and diminished their opinion of our valour, had his brother, onr particular friends, were of the effect of occasioning them to dispei»e ou that number. Eight, they said, had lost the other. For this day, about twelve o'clock, their lives at the observatory ; three of upon findinuf that we'persisted in our inac- whom likewise were persons of the first dis- tivity, great bodies of tliem, after blowing tiiiction. At eleven o'clock the two natives their conchs, and using every method of de- li ft ns, and took the precaution to desire fiance, marched off, over the hills, and never that one of onr guard-boats might attend made their appearance afterwards. Those, them, till they had passed the Discovery, liowever, who remained, were not the less lest tliey should again be fired upon, which, daring and presumptnoi? . One of them hy alarming their countrymen on shore, had the insolence to come within musket- might expose them to the danger of detec- shot a-head of the Resolution, and alter tion. This request was readily complied throwing several stones at us, waved over with, and we had the satisfaction to find, bis head the hat which had belonged to tiiat they reached the hind safe and nndis- Capt. Cook,^ while bis countrymen ashors covered. During the remainder of this were exulting and encouraging his audacity, night, we heard the same loud lamentations, Our people were highly enraged at this, in- as in tlie preceding one. Early the following suit, and, coniing in a body on the quarter- niornini;, we received a visit from Koah. deck, begged they might no longer be Mr. King was piqued at finding, that not- obliged to put up with such rriterated pro- •.vilhstanding the most glaring marks of vocations, an«l requesied Mr. King to endea- treacheiy in his conduct, and the positive vour to obtain permission for tliein, from declaration of our friends the priests, he Capt. Clerke, to take advantage of the first should still be suffered to carry on the same fair occasion of avenging the death of their lurce, and to make ns at lea-^t appear the mii ii lamented Conimandtr. On Mr. dupes of his hypocrisy. Our situation was King's acquainting the Captain with what intleed become extremely awkward and un- was passing, he ordered some great guns to promising; none of the purposes for which be firetl at the Islanders on shore ; and pro- this pacific (dan of proceeding had been mised the crew, that, if they should be adopted, having hitherto been in any respectj molested at 'the watering-place, the next promoted by it. No satisfactory answer had day, they should then he peripitted to chas- heen given to our demands; we did not tise them. Before we could bring our guns seem to have made any progress towards a to bear, the natives had suspected ourinten- reconciliation with the natives; they still tions, from the bustle and agitation they remained on the shore in hostile postures, as observed in the ship ; and had retired behind if determined to oppose any endeavours we their houses and walls. We were conse- might make to go ashore ; and yet it was quentl v obliged to fire, in some degree, at hecome absolutely necessary to attempt random ; notwithstanding which, our shot lauding, as the completing our stock of wa- produced all the effects we could- desire: ter would not admit of any longer delay, for, in a short time afterwards, we perceived However, in justice to the conduct of Capt. Koah paddling towards us, with the great- Cterke, we must remark, that it was highly est haste ; and when he arrived, we learned prohable, from the great numbers of the Is- that some people had lost their lives,. and landers, and from the resolution with which amoos the rest Maiha-maiha^ a principal •il t '\ \V iU 73G VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTn POLE. Eree, nearly related to Terreeoboo. Not lonar after Koah's arrival, two boys swam off* from ttie Moral towards our vessels, each Hrmed with a long spear ; and atler they had approached pretty near, they began in a very solemn manner to chant a song ; the f object of which, from their frequently men- tinning the word Orono, and pointing to the village where Capt. Cook had been slain, vre concluded to be the late calamitous oc- currence. Having sung for near a riuarter of an hour in a plaintive strain, during all vi'hich time they continued in the water, they repaired on board the Discovery, and delivered up their spears ; and after remain- ing there a short time, returned on shore. We could never learn who sent them, or what was the object of this ceremony. Dur- ing the night, we took the usual precautions for the security of the ships ; and, as soon as it was dark, the two natives, who had visited us the preceding evening, came off* to us'again. They assured us, that though the effects of our great guns this afternoon, had greatly alarmed the chiefs, they had by no means relinquished their hostile intentions, and they advised us to be on our guard. On Wednesday, the 17th, the boats of both ships were dispat{:hed ashore to pro- cure water ; and the Discovery was warped close to the beach, in order to protect the persons employed in that service. We soon found that the intelligence whirli had been sent us by the priests, was not destitute of foundation, and that the Islanders were de- termined to neglect no opportunity of an- noying us, when it could be done without much hazard. The villages, throughout this whole cluster of Islands, are for the most part, situated near the sea ; and the adjacent ground is enclosed with stone walls, of the height of about three feet. These, we at first supposed, were designed for the division of property ; but we now discovered that they served for a defence against invasion, for which purpose they were, perliaps, chiefly intended. They con- aift of loose stones, and the natives are very dextrous^in Shifting them, with great quick- ness, to such particular situations, as the direction of the attack may occasionally require. In the sides rf the monntain thot stands near the bay, they have likewise holes, or caves, of considerable de|>tli, whose entrance is secured by a fence of a similar kind. From behind both these stations, the Islanders perpetually harrassed our water- ing party witn stones ; nor could the incon- siderable force we had on shore, with the advantage of muskets, compel them to retreat. Thus opposed, our people were so occupied in attending to their own safety, that, during the whole forenoon, they filled only one ton of water. It being therefore impossible for them to perform this service, till their assailants were driven to a greater distance, the Discovery was ordered fb dis. loflge the enemy with her great guns; which being accomplished by means of a few discharges, the men landed without molestation. The natives, however, made their appearance again soon afterwards, in their usual method of attack ; and it was now deemed absolutely necessary to burn down some straggling huts, near the wall behind which they had sheltered themselves. In executing the orders that were given for that purpose, our people were hurried into acts of unnecessary devastation and crnehy. Some allowance ought certainly to be made for their resentment of the repeated insults, and contemptuous behaviour of the Island- ers, and for their natural desire of revenging the death of their beloved and respected Commander. But, at the same time, their conduct strongly evinced, that the greatest precaution is requisite in trusting, even foi a moment, the discretionary use of arms in the hands of private soldiers, or seamen, on such occasions. The strictness of discipline, and the habits of obedience^ by which their force is kept directed to suitable objects, lead them to conceive, that whenever they have the power, they have likewise a right to perform. Actual disobedience being almost the only crime for which they expect to receive^ punishment, they are apt to consider it as the .sole measure of right and wrong ; and hence they are too ready to conclude, that what they can do with impu- nity, they may also do consistentiv with honour and jottice; so that the feeliRgs of AND HOUND THK WORL]). ' ii rapT I that tewise whose liinilar ns, the water- incon- ith the em to k^ere so safptv, ^ filled ieretore service, greater fb dis. t guns; ms of a withont r, made 'ards, in [ it was to burn the wall jmselves. fiven for ried into cruelty. )e made insults, Isl^nd- eveny:ing respected ne, their greatest even foi arms in amen, on iscipline, ch their objects, ever they a right :e being ey expect apt to of right ready to th impa- tly with liRgs of u humanity, and thnt generosity towards an tuunderstan<\, that he might depart in safety, nnresisling enemy, which ut other times, is lie shewcti ns that he was not deficient in a striking distinction of brave men, become gratitude, as he not only often returned but feeble restraints to the exercise of vio- afterwards with presents of provisions, but lence, when set in opposition to the desire also did us oth.cr services. they naturally have of shewing' their own Soon after the destruction of the village, power and independence. vve saw, ctnning down the hill, a man acconi- We have before oliserved, tljat directions panied by iifteen or twenty boys, who held had been given to burn only u few straggling; in their bunds pieces of white cloth, plan- houses, which utibrded shelter to the Islunii- lains, green l)i)ut>:hs, &cc. It ha|)pened that ers. We were therefore greatly surprised this pnciiic einbassy, as soon as they were on perceiving the whole village in flauies ; within read), received the fire of a party of and before a boat, that was sent to stop the our men. 'J'his, however, did not deter tiieni irogress of the mischief, could reach the from continuing their procession, and tlie and, the habitations of our old and constant officer on duty came up, in time, to prevent Viends, the priests, were all on fire. Air. a second discharge. As they made a nearer ^ing had, therefore, great reason to lament approach, the principal person proved to ha the illness that confined him on board this our friend Kaireekeea, who had ffid when day. The priests had always been under our people first set fire to the village, and his protection ; and unfortunately, the iifa- had now returned, and expressed his desire cers then on duty having seldom tieen on of being sent on board the liesolution. On shore at the morai, were but little acquaint- his arrival we found hiui extremely thought* ed with the circumstances of the place, fu I and grave. We endeavoured to convince Had he been present himself, he might, in hiiii of the necessity there was of setting fire all probability, have been the means of pre- to the village, by which this house and those serving their little society from destruction, of his brelhren were unintentionally destroy- In escaping from the flames, several of the ed. He expostulated with us on our ingra- inhabitants were shot ; and our people cut titude and want of friendship ; and, indeed, u(i' the heads of two of them, and brought it was not till the present moment, that we them on board. The fate of one unhappy knew the whole extent of the injury that native was much lamented by all of us. As had been done them. He informed us, thai he was repairing to the well for water, he confiding in the promises Mr. King had was shot at by one of the marines. The made them, and as well as in the assurances ImII happened to strike his calibash, which they had received from the men, who had lie instantly threw from him, and ran off. brought us someofCapt. Cook's remains, lie was pursued into one of the caves above- they had rxjt removed their effects back into mentioned « '•''nd no lion could have defended the country, as the other inhabitants had Ills den witli {(li'eater bravery and fierceness; done, but bad put every valuable article of till at length, after he had found means to their own, as well as what they had collect- keep two of our people at bay for a consi- ed from us, into a house adjoining to tlm derahle time, he expired, covered with morai, where they had the morlilication tm wounds. This accident first brought us ac- see it all set on (ire by our people, lie had, quainted with the use to which these caverns on coming on board, perceived the heads of are a|)piied. About this time a man, ad- his two countrymen lying on deck, at which vanced in years, was taken prisoner, bound, he was greatly shocked, and earnestly desiiv and conveyed on board the liesolution, in ed that they might be throwii ovei-lmanU the same boat, with the heads of his two This re(|nesl, by the directions of Capt, countrymen. We never observed horror so Clerke, was iinniediately complied with, strongly portrayed, as in the face of this per- In the evening our watering party retiinied son, nor so vioh^nt a transition to iininode- on board, having sustained no farther iiiier-» Rte loy. as when he was untied, and given niption. We passed a disagreeable wighti 3 U fi m [;!' ! n p. 1!^" 758 V^OVAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. ciif trirs and lamentations we heard from the sliore lieinu* (';ir more dreadful than ever. Our only ronstdation on thisocrasion, arose lr() informed ns, by dilferent I'kms ; and he also told ns, thai 'lerreeoboo was using every means to reco- ver them. The next morninu:, being the I21st, of February, Kapim, and the king's son, came on board, and i>roni;ht with them not only the remainint;- bones of Gapt. Gook, but likewise the barrels oi his gnu, his shoes, and some other trifles which l»>ad belonged to him. Eappo assured us, that Terreeo-. boo, Maiha-niaiha, and himself, were ex* tremely desirous of peace ; that they had given us the most convincing proofs of it; and that they had been prevented from gir- ing it sooner by the otiier chiefs, many of whom were still disafl*ected to us. He la- mented,^ with the most lively sorrow, the death of six chiefs, who had been killed by our peojde ; some of whom, he sai 1 • 1 CHAP. XVL The tuOoo laid on U.e hay taken off, and the ships surrounded with canoes ; Orders for the Resolu^ tionand Discovert) I:) be vii moored ; They weigh anchor and take their daparturejrom Karakukooa btttf ; SaH ill (juesl of a harbour ou the south-east side of Moicee ; Driven to leeward by the current and strong- eiisterfy viuds ; Pass Tohoorowa ; South-west side of 31owee described; Proceed to Wouhoo ; Its north coast described ; Disajrpoinled in attempting to icatcr ; Sail to Atooi ; and anchor in W ymoa ban ; The natives noi so friendly as before; Their insolence in demanding « hatchet Jor every cask of water ; Treat our people with contempt; Steal Lieutenant King's hanger; Their insolence at the water side ; Are fired at by two marines ; One of them wounded; A visit from the contending chiefs; The ships anchor off Onceheow ; A joiiniey up the country ; A partictdar description of the word laboa ; A remarkable instance (f jealousy. O'N the 22nd, of February, 1779, during the morning", not a canoe came near the bay ; the taboo, which Kappo, at our re- quest, had laid on it the pi'eceding day, having not yet been taken oti*. At leni^th, 4he chief came on board ; when we assured him that we were now perfectly satisfied ; and that, as the Orono was buried, all re- membrance of the late unhappy transac- tions was buried with him. We afterwards requested hi;:< to take oft' the taboo, and to make it known, that the Islanders might l)riiig provisions to us as usual. The ships were soon surrounded with canoes, and inany of the Erees came on board, express- ing- their grief at what had happened, and their satisfaction at our reconciliation. Se- \ eral of our friends, who did not favour us with a visit, sent presents of large hogs, and other provisions. Among the rest, the old tieacherous Koah came oft* to us, but we refused him admittance. We were now pre- paring to put to sea, and Capt. Clerke ima- liiniiiti, that, if the intelligence of our pro- ceedings should reach the Islands to leeward ?)ef(ire ns, it might have a bad effect, gave orders, that the ships should be unmoored. Ab lut «ight in the evening., we dismissed all the natives ; and Eanno, and thefrientlly Kiireekeea, took their leave of us in a very a.lVerioiiiite manner. We immediately \vei.ii;(^(l uiH'hor, and stood out of Karaka- tooa hay. The Islanders were assr,mbled in ^^reat ninnbers on the sho'e ; and, as we jiussed along, received our last farewells, H;ith every mark of good-will and affection. 4 About ten o'clock P. M. having cleared the land, we stood to the northward, with a view of searching for a harbour, which the natives had often mentioned, on the south- east side of ?Iowee. We found ourselves, the next morning, driven to leeward, by a swell from the N. E. and a fresh gale, from the same quarter, drove ns still farther to the westward. At midnight we tacked and stood four hours to the S. to keep clear of the land ; and, at day-break, on the 24th, we were standing towards a small barren Island, named Tahoorowa, about seven miles S. W. of IMowee. Having now no prospect of making a closer examination of the S. E. parts of Mowee, we bore away, and kept along the S. E. side of Tahoo- rowa. Steering close round its western extremity, in onler to fetch the W. side of Mowee, we suddenly shoaled our water, and saw the sea breaking on same rocks almost right a-head. We then kept away about a league and a half, and again steered to the northward ; when we stooil for a passage between Mowee, and an Island named Ranai. In the afternoon, the weather w.:d un-^et- kiil poss- IwiJlioiit lit forms lis seen vovem- td by a the appearance of two separate Islands, about a league off the sliore, and near the This deceptive appearance continued, till middle of the N. £. side of the Island, we were within about ten leagues of the The coast to the northward, consists of coast, which bending- a great way inward, detached hills, ascend intf perpendicularly formed a capacious bay. The westernmost from the sea ; the sides beinu' covered with point, off which the shoal runs, that w« wood, and the valleys, between them, ap- liave just now mentionetl, is rendered re- pearing to be fertile, anranchinucket, and forcibly took away his bag. Their principal aim, however, was to possess themselves of the muskets of the marines, who were conti- nually (complaining of tlieir attempts to force thtm from their hands. Though they, in general, preserved a kind of deference and respect for Mr. King, yet they obliged him to contribute his shure towards their slock of plunder. One of them approached him, in a familar manner, and diverted his atten- tion, whilst anothtr seized his hanger, which he held carelessly in his hand, and ran away with it. Such inscdence was not to be re- pelled by force. Prudence dictated that we must patiently submit to it ; at the same time, guarding against its effects as well as we were able, Mr. King was, however some- what alarmed, on being soon after informed by the Serjeant of marines, that, turning suddenly round, he saw a man behind him, armed with a dagger, in the position of striking. Though he might, perhaps, be mistaken, in this particular, our situation was truly critical and alarming; and the smallest error or mistake, on our part, might have been of fatal consequences. Our people being separated into three small parties ; one tilling casks at the lake ; another rolling them to the shore ; and a third purchasing ^jrovisions ; Mr. King had some intentions of collecting them together, in order to protect the performance of one duty at a time. But, on due reflection, he thought it more adviseable to let them pro- ceed as they had begun. If a real attack had been made, even our whole force could have made but a |)oor resistance. He thought, on the other hand, that such a stop might operate to. our disadvantage, as being an evident token of our fears. Besides, in the present case, the crowd was kept divided, and many of ihem wholly occupied in bar- tering. Perhaps, the principal cause of their not attacking us was, their dread of the effects of our arms ; and, as we appeared to place so much confidence in this advantage, as to oppose only five marines to such a multitude of people, their ideas of om ^uip-- riority must have been greatly e\a I tto. ]l was our business to cherish this opiijiou; and, it must ever be acknowledged to the honour of the whole party, that it was im- possible for any men to behave better, in order to strengthen these inipressioru . Whatever could be considered as a jest, ttiey received with patience and good-nature ; but, if they were interrupted by any serious attempt, they opposed it with resolute looks and menaces. At length, we so far succeed- ed, as to get all our casks to the sea-side, w ithout any accident of consequence : but, while our people were getting the casks into the launch, the inhabitants, thinking they should have no farther opportunity of plun- dering, grew more daring and insolent. The Serjeant of marines luckily suggested to jMr. Kinc, the advantage of sending off his party first into the boats, by which means the muskets would be taken out of their reach ; which, as above related, were the grand objects the Islanders had in view: and, if they should ha[>pen to attack us, the marines could more eiitctually defend us, than if they were onshore. Every thing was now in the boats, and only JMr. King, Mr. Anderson, tlie gunner, and a seaman of the boat's crew remained on shore, 'i'he pinnace laying beyond tlu^ siirf, which we were under a necessity of swimming through, Mr. King ordered the otiier two to make the i)est of their way to it, and told them he would follow them. They both refused to comply with this order, and it became a matter of contest, who should be the last on shore. Some hasty expression, it seems, Mr. King had just before made use of to the saih)r, which he considered as a reflection on his courage, and excited his resentment ; and the old gunner, as a point of honour was now started, conceived it to be his duty to take a part in it. In this whimsical situation, they, perhaps, might have long remained, had not the dispute been settletl by the stones, which began to fly plentjtnlly about us, and by the exclamations of the people from the boats, begging us to be expeditious; as the natives were armed with clubs and spears, and pursuing us into the A':^l 'ii' '■ M ■■ ■( ' 1 t;, I It I' m 71 1 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTFI POLE, water. Mr. Kin«r arrived first at the pin- nace, and, perceiving Mr. Anderson was so i\ir heliind, as not to be entirely ont of dan- ger, he ordered me ransket tone fired ; but, in the hurry of executing his orders, the ma- rines fired two. The natives immediateiy ran away, leaving only one man and woman on the beach. The man attempted to rise several times» bnt was not able, havini^ been wounded in the groin. The Islanders, in a shf;rt time, returned ; and, surrounding the wounded man, brandished their spears at lis, with an air of defiance ; but, by the time we reached the ships, some persons arrived, which we supposed to be the chiefs, by whom they were all driven from the shore. During our ulisence, Capt. Clerke liad been under terril)le apprehensions for our safety ; whicli had been considerably increased by his misunderstanding some of the natives, with whom he had conversed on board. The name of Capt. Cook being fre- quently mentioned, accompanied with cir- cumstantial descriptions of his death and destruction, he concluded, that they had re- ceived intelligence of the unfortunate events at Owhyhee, to which they alluded. But they were only endeavouring to make him understand, \\ li;»t wars had arisen on account of the goats, \*liich Capt. Cook had left at Oneeheow, an;! that the poor goats had been sidughtered, during the contest for the property of them. Capt. Clerke, applying these slocking representations to our mis- fortunes at Owhyhee, and to an indication of revenge, fixed his telescope upon us the whole time ; and as soon as he saw the smoke of the muskets, ordered the boats to be put off to our assistance. On Tuesday, the 2nd, of March, in the morning, Mr. King was again ordered on sbcTe, with the watering party. As we had so narrowly escaped the preceding y came liein had ; but, as ! the rest, lentment. kvaterinpr, returning it several ad apolo- miry men, iir to the \\e ])rinci- hich had ition. At was dis- Id the sn- the pre- Teavee. le grand- oo ; who eheow to ted ahout Dneehp«»w ;d by To- ndency ft( sistinui: on s prepar- d a baltte erein Tofh at his coming and olining a little to the south. iromg awa^ ; treated him and all the natives on board with tliat respect which is usually paid to persbns of his rank. It was somewhat remarkable, that a man, who was 5€ The hills rose with a gradual ascent, which brought them to sorie extensive plantations, consisting of the taro or eddy root, and sweet potatoes with plants of the cloth-tree. Both tbn 'r. f* fii >if>^1 11^ M,;! 746 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. taro and the sweel potatoes are here planted at the (Ji.slijnce of four feet from each other. The potatoes are earthed up almost to the top of file stalk, with a proper quantity of iight niuuld. The taro is left b^lre to the root, and the mould round it is put in the form of a bason, for the purpose of holding the rain-water ; this root requiring a certain degree of moisture. At the Friendly and Society Isles, the taro was constantly plant- ed in low and moist situations, and generally in those places where there was the conve- niency of a rivulet to flood it. This mode of culture was considered as absolutely ne- cessary ; but we now found that this root, with the precaution before-mentioned, suc- ceeds equally well in a more dry situation. It was, indeed, remarked by all of us, that the taro of the Sandwich Islands was the best we had ever tasted. The walls, by Avhich these plantations are sefiarated from each other, are composed of the loose burnt stones, which are met with in clearing the ground ; and being totally concealed by sugar-canes, that are planted close on each side, form the most beautiful fences that can be imagined. Our party stopped for the night at the second hut they observed among the plantations, where they supposed them- selves to be six or seven miles distant from our ships. The prospect from this spot was described by them as very delightful : they had a v^ew of our vessels in the bay before them ; tu the left, they saw a continued range of villages, interspersed with groves of cocoa-nut-trees, -jMcading alonti' the shore ; a thick wojid extending itself behind them ; and, to the right, a very considera- ble extent of ground, laid out with great regularity in well-cultivated plantations, dis- played itself to their view. Near this s|)ot, the natives pointed out to them, at a dis- tance from every other dwelling, the resi- dence fa hermit, who, they said, had, in the ( uer part of his life, been a great chief and N "ior, but hi .one: ago retired from the sea-iLoast of the Island, and now never quitted the environs of his cottage. As they approached him, they prostrated themselves, and afterwards presentecl him with some provisions His behaviour was easy, frank, and cheerful. He testified little astonish. ment at the sight of our people, and though pressed to accept of some European curiosi. ties, he thought proper to decline the nflPer, and soon retired to his cottage. Our party represented him as by far the most aged Cerson they had ever seen ; judging him to e, at a moderate computatibn, upwards of a hundred years of age. As they had sup- posed that the mountain was not more than ten or a dozen miles distant from the bay, and consequently expected to reach it with ease early the following morning, they were now greatly surprized to find th&.distance scarce perceivably diminished. This cir- cumstance, with the uninhabited state of the country which they were ^on the point of entering, rendering it necessary to pro- vide a supply of provisions, they dispatched one of their conductors back to the village for that purpose. Whilst they waited his return, they were joined by several of Kaoo's servants, whom that generous old man had sent after them, loaded with refreshments, and fully authorized, as their rout lay through his grounds, to demand, and take away with them whatever they might want. Our travellers were surprized on finding the cold here so intense. But, as they had no thermometer with them, they could only form their judgment of it from their feelings; which, from the warm atmosphere they had quitted, must have been a very fallacious method of judging. They found it, how- ever, so cold, that they could scarce get any sleep, and the Islanders could not sleep at all : both parties being disturbed, during the whole night, by continual couehing. As they, at this time, could not be at any very great height, their distance from the sea l)eing no more than six or seven miles, and part of the road on a very moderate ascent, this uncommon degree of cold must be attributed to the easterly wind blowintjf fresh over the snowy mountains. Early the next morning, thej^ proceeded on their jour- ney, and filled their calibashes at a well of excellent water, situate about half a mile from their hut. After they had passed the plantations they arrived at a thick wood, which they entered by a path that had been •>■:•'■ i; AND ROUND THE WORLD. '47 istonisli-- I though curiosi- ihe offer, iiir party nost aged g him to )\vards of had sup- iiore than I the bay, !h it with they were lejdistance This cir- J state of the point iry to pro- dispatched the village waited his al of Kaoo's J man had jfreshments, ir rout lay i, and take [night want, finding the liey had no could only leir feelings; re they had ;y fallacious ind it, how- larce get any |not sleep at bed, during il couffhina;. ot he at any ice from ll>e .seven miles ry moderate ►fcold must ind blowint? . Early llie in their jdur- at a well oi half a mile d passed the thick wood, hat had been nvado for the convenience of the Islanders, who frequently repair thither for the pur- pose of eatcliing birds, as well as procuring tlie wild or horse-plantain. Their progress now became extremely slow, and was at- tended with great labour; for the ground was best information they could possibly obtain with regard to the direction of tlieir road, the party, who were now nine in number, marched for about half a dozen miles, along the skirts of the wood, and then entered it again by u path leading towards the E. either swampy, or covered with large stones ; They passed, for the first three miles, through the path narrow, and often interrnpted by a forest of lofty spice-trees, which grew on trees lying across it, which they were obliged a rich loam. At the back of these trees to climb over, as the thickness of the under- they met with an equal extent of low wood, on each side, rendered it impractica- shrubby trees, together with a considerable ble to pass round them. The^ saw, in these quantity of thick under-wood, upon a bot- woods, pieces of white cloth fixed on poles, torn of loose burnt stones. This led them at small distances, which they imagined to another forest of spice-tr^es, and the were land marks for the division of property, as the^ only observed them where the wild plantains gre'v. The trees were of the same kind with the spice tree of New Holland; they were straight and lofty, and their cir- cumference was from two to four feet. Hav- same rich brownish soil, which was again succeeded by a barren ridge of a similar kind with the former. These ridges, as far as they could be seen, appeared to run parallel with the sea shore, and to have Monna Roa for their centre. In passing through ing advanced Tiine or ten miles in the wood, the woods, they found many unfinished ca- they had the mortification of finding them* noes, and Iwits in several places; but they selves, suddenly, within sight of the sea, saw none of the inhabitants. After they had and not very far from it ; the path having penetrated almost three miles into the second turned off imperceptibly to the S. and car- wood, they arrived at two huts, where they ried them to the right of the mountain, which stopped, being greatly fatigued with the it was their intention to reach. Their dis- day's journey, in the course of which they appointment was considerably heightened had walked, according to their own cumpu- by the uncertainty under which they now tation, at least twenty miles. Having found were with respect to its true bearings as no springs from the time they quitted the they could not at present gain a view of it plantations, they had greatly suffered from from the top of the highest trees. They the violence of their tliirst ; in consequence therefore thought proper to walk back six of which they were obliged, before the or seven miles to an unoccupied hnt, where evening came on, to separate into small they had left two of their own people, and parties, and go in quest of water. They, at three of the natives, with the small remnant' last, met with some that had been left by of their provisions. Here they passed the rain in the bottom of a half-finished canoe; second night, during which the air was so which, though of a reddish colour, was by no extremely sharp, that, by the morning their means unwelcome to them. Throughout guides were all gone off, except one. the night, the cold was more intense than Being at this time in want of provisions, before; and though they had taken care to which laid them under a necessity of re- wrap themselves up in mats and clothes of turning to some of the cultivated parts of the country, and to keep a large fire between tlie Island, they lefl the wood by the same the two huts, they could get but very little path by which tliey had entered it. When s\ee\h and were under the necessity of vvalk- they arrived at the plantations, they were eng about for the greatest part of the night, surrounded by the Islanders from whom Their elevation was now. in all probability, they purchased a fresh supply of necessaries ; pretty considerable, as the ground, over and prevailed upon two of them to accom- which their journey lay, had been generally pany them as guides, in the room of those on the ascent. On the next morning, which who had gone away. Having procured the wai the 29th> they set oat earH^y with an 3 ji'j.? .:♦ M. K: '. V- I, •iP 748 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, It intention of making their last and greatest effort to reach the snowy mountain ; bnt their spirits were considerably depressed, on finding that the miserable pittance of wa- ter, which they had discovered the preceding night, was exnended. The path, which reached no farther than where canoes had been built, being now terminated, they -were obliged to make their way as well as they could ; frequently climbing up into the most lofty trees to explore the surrounding country. They arrived, about eleven o'clock, ut a ridge of burnt stones, from the top of which they had a prospect of the Mouna Koa, which then appeared to be at the dis- tance of between twelve and fourteen miles from them. They now entered into a co - .Miltation, whether they should proceed any further, or rest contented with the view be- fore them of the snowy mountain. Since the path had ceased, their road had become highly fatiguing, and was growing still more so, every step they advanced. The ground was almost every where broken into deep fissures, which, being slightly covered with moss, made them stumble almost continually ; and the intervening space consisted of a sur- face of loose burnt stones, which broke nn- i\er their feet. Into some of these fissures they ihrew stones, which seemed from the noise they made, to fall to a considerable «lepth ; and the ground sounded hollow as they walked upon it. Jlesides these circum- stances, which discouraged them from pro- ceeding, they found their conductors so averse to going on, that they had reason to think they wonid not be prevailed on to re- main out another night. They, therefore, at length came to a determination of ieturn- ing to the ships, after taking a survey of the country from the highest trees they could find. From this elevation, they perceived themselves surrounded with wood towards the sea ; they were unable to distinguish, in llie horison, the sky from the water ; and betwixt them and the snowy mountain, was a valley of about eight miles in breadth. I'hey passed this night at a hut in the second forest ; and the followinqf day, before noon, they had passed the first wood, and found themselves nine or ten miles to the N. E. of the ships, towards which they marched through the plantations. As they walked along, they did not observe a spot of ground, that was susceptible of improvement, left nn|>lanted ; and, indeed, the country, from their account, could scarcely be cultivated to greater advantage for the purposes of the natives. Thev were surprised at seeing seve- ral fields of hay ; and, upon their enquiry, to what particniar use it was applied, they were informed, that it was intended to cover the grounds where the young taro grew, in order to preserve them from-being scorched by the rays of the sun. They observed, among the plantations, a few huts scattered about, which aflTorded occasional shelter to the labourers : but they did not see any vi|. lages at a greater distance from the sea than four or five miles. Near one of them, which was situated about four miles from the bay, they discovered a cave, forty fathoms m length, three in breadth, and of the same height. It was open at each end; its sides were fluted, as if wrought with a ckisssel ; and the surface was elazed over, perhaps by the action of fire. Having thus related the principal circumstances that occurred in the expedition to the snowy mountain at Owhy. hee, we proceed. Here an explanation of the word Taboo may not be improperly introduced. On asking the reasons of the intercourse being interdicted, between us and the Islanders, the day preceding Terreeoboo's arrival, we were informed, that the bay was tabooed. The same interdiction took place, by our desire, when we interred tiie remams of Capt. Cook. The most implicit obedience, in these two instances, was rendered by the natives ; but whether on religions principles, or in deference to civil authority, we cannot pretend to determine. The ground whereon our observatories were fixed, and the place whereon our masts were deposited, were tabooed, and the operation was equally effi- cacious. This consecration was performed by the priests only ; and yet, at our requtst, the men ventured on the spot which was tabooed ; wheiice it shonid seem they enter- tained no religious apprehensions, their obe- dience being limitea merely to our refusal* AND ROUND THE WORLD. /-: JO relied alked onnd, t, left from ivated of tlie g seve- »quiry, d, they o cover Ml landers, rival, we tabooed. by our inains of jedience, by the irinciples, ve cannot whereon the place ted, were ually effi- performed requtst, jvhici! was hey enter- their obe- ur refusal* ir No inducements could brinjf the women near wa ; on account, it is presumed, of the Morai ncljoining' ; which they are, at all times, prohibited from approaching ; not only here, but in all the Islands of the south seas. Women, it has been observed, are al- ways tabooed, or forbidden to eat certain articles of food. We have seen many of them, at their muals, have their meat put into their mouths by others; and, on our requesting to know the reason of it, we were informed, that ihey were tabooed, and not permitted to feed themselves. This prohibi- tion was always the consequence of assisting at any fuiieraj,, touching a dead body, and many other occasions. The word taboo, is indifferpntly applied, either to persons or things ; as the natives are tabooed, the bay is tabooed, &c. This word is also expressive of any tiling sacred, devoted, or eminent. The king of Owhyhce is called Eree-taboo, and a human victim, tangata-taboo ; and, among the Friendly Islanders, Tonga, where the king resides, is called Tunga-taboo. Willi respect to their marriages, very little can be said, except that such a compact seems to exist among them. It has already been mentioned, that when Terreeoboo had left his quet-n Rora-rora, at Mo wee, another woman co-habited with him, by whom he had children, and seemed particularly at- tached to her ; but whether polygamy is allowed, or whether it is mixed with concu- binage, either among the principal or infe- rior orders, we saw too little of, io warrant any conclusions. From what we bb'^erved of the domestic concerns of the lower class of people, cne man and one woman seemed to have the direction of tb« house, and the children were subordinate to them, as in civilized countries. The following is the only instance of any thing like jealousy, which we have seen among them, and which shews, that, among married women of rank, not only fidelity, but even a degree of re- seive, is required. At one of their boxing' matches, Omeah rose two or three times from his pincie, and approaching his wife, with s'trong mai'ks of displeasure, command- ed her, as we supposed, to withdraw. Whe- ther he thoHsht her beauty engaged too much of our attention, or whatever might be his motives, there certainly existed no real vause of jealousy. She, however, continued in her place, and, at the conclusion of the entertainment, joined our party, and even solicited some trifling presents. She was informed that we had not any about us, but that, if she would accompany us to the tent, she should be welcome to make choice ot what she liked. She was, accordingly, pro- ceeding with us ; which being observed by Omeah, he followed in a great rage, seized her by the hair, and, with his fists, began to inflict severe corporal punishment. Having been the innocent cause of this extraordinary treatment, we were exceedingly concerned at it ; though we understood it would be highly improper for us to interfere between husband and wife of such superior rank. The natives, however, at length interposed, and. the next day, we had the satisfaction of meeting them together, perfectly satistied with each other; besides, what was ex- tremely singular, the lady would not permit us to rally the husband on his behaviour, which we had inclination to do ; plainly telling us, that he had acted very properly. VJ l I!. .! t. -,'.■■ i. .; ; Jl ■u\ i -J •/ ! ''.it "i.i •::i,-;> '.. • ! . ■ . 'V . i i. ■ "■•■til 'i . ' . !».;•. • ■ ■■ ' i . ■•■ ■ i::'l' ii.l !,..'(• . . > •::' :'.} ■■>' ) \ y ■ 'w.^i:* i't ■■■ ,_■ . « .1 <■ ) *■« v *ln -I i %^^ I- ^i' i CHAP. XVII. The Resolution and Discovery ^ having weighed anchor^ quit Oneefieow ; Enlcr the bay of Anuiskt^.' Descry the town of St. Peter and St. Paul ; Party sent on shore ; Their reception by the Cum- mander of the frt ; Anot/ter party dispatched to Jiolcheretsk, provisions, and stores being ex- tremely scarce at St. Peter and St. Paul; Proceed up the river Awatska ; Civility and hospilu. iity from the inhabitants of the town of Karatchin ; A journey on sledges ; Curious account of that mode of travelling ; Arrival at Natcheeldn • Jtimbark on the Bolchoireka Itiver ; Formal procession into the capital ; Hospitality and generosity of Major Jiehm, Commander oj the gar- rison ,• Holcheretsk described ; Affecting departure from that place ; Return to the ships ; Re~ markable instance of generjsity in the sailors ; Major Behm carries dispatcher to Pelersimrga ; His departure and extru< r Unary character ; Transactions at PelropaulowiLaf The Russian Hospital put under the cure of our Surgeons ; Difficulties in sailing out oJ the ■ §lf ' Steer to the northward; Appearance of the country ; Cheeponnslcoi Noss ; Kronots/ci ^oss K mlschulskoi Noss ; Olutorskoi Noss ; And St. Thadeu's Noss^ passed, and the errors oj the Mtusian Charlt pointed out. " ', ' ' ON Monday, the lofli, of Marcli 1779, we weighed anchor, on«! passing to tlie N. ot'Tahoora, stood to the S. W. in ex- pectation of falling in with the Island of Modoopapappa ; the natives haviii!^ assured us, that it lay in (hat direction, within tive hours sail of Tahoora. The next day at tive o'clock P. M. we made a signal for the Dis- covery to >ine under our stern, havinp: given over all hopes of seeing Modoopapappa. On Wednesday, the 17Jh, we steered W. Capt. Clarke intending to keep in the same parallel uf latitude, till we made the longi- tude of Awatska Bay ; and then to steer N. for the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, which was also fixed on as our rendezvous, if we should happen to separate. This track was chosen, because we supposed it to he yet unexplored, and we might probably meet with some new Islands in our passage. On Tuesday, the 30th, the winds and un- settled state of the weather, induced Capt. Clf>rke to alter his plan, and, at six in the evening, we began to steer N. W. which we contmned till Tuesday, the 6th, of April, at which time we lost the trade wind. Sunday, the 2dth, we were favoui'ed with a transient glance of the entrance of Awat- ska Bay ; but in the present state, of the weiither, we could not presume to venture into it. For this reason we again stood off, 6 when we lost sight of the Discovery ; but this gave us little concern, beiiis: now so near the place of rendezvous. Wednesday, the 28th, in the morning, the feather clear* ed up, and we had a fine day, when our men were employed in taking the iee from the rigging, sails. &c. that in case of a thaw, which was now expected, it might not full on our heads. At noon, in latitude 52 deg. 44 min. longitude 159 deg. the entrance of Awatska Bav, bore N. W. The mouth of it opens in the direction of N. N. W. On the S. side, the land is moderately high, rising to the northward into a blutf-head. Three remarkable mcks lie in the chatind between them, not far from the N. E. side; and, on the opposite side, a single rock n( considerable size. At three o'clock, P. M. we stood into the bay, with a fair wiixi from the southward, having from twenty- two to seven fathoms soundings. There is a look-out house on the north-head, used as a light-house, when any of the Russian sfaipt are expected upon the coast. It had a flag-statf, but we could not perceive any person there. Having passed the mouth of the bay, which extencls about -four miles in length, a circular bason presented itself oi about twenty-five miles in circumference ; in this we anchored about four o'clock ; fearinf; to run foul of a shoal mentioned liy T AND ROUND THE WORLD. 751 ry ; but now so (hiesday, ler cleai- i\\en our ice from f a thaw, not tall Itranoe of lOUtll of W. On ■ly higlj, uft-bead. chauutl E. side; rock of [k, P. M. fair wiml twenty- There is , used US Russian It had jeive any mouth of miles in itself oi ifereive ; o'chirk ; lioned hy Muller to lie in th« channel. Great quanti- ties of loose ICC drifted with the tide in the middle of the ba^, but the shores were blocked up with it. Plenty of wild fowl, of various kinds, were seen ; also large nights of Greenland piffeons, together with ravens and eagles. We examined every eorner of the bay, with our glasses, in order to discern the town of St. Peter and St. Paul, which, from the accounts we had re- ceived at Oonalashka, we supposed to be a place of strength and consequence. At length we discovered, to tite N. £. some miserable log-houses, and a few conical huts amounting in the whole, to about thirty, which, from their situation, notwithstaiulini all the respect we wished to entertain for a Russian Oslrog, or town, we concluded to be Petropaulowska". In justice, however, to the hospitable treatment we found here, it may not be amiss to anticipate the reader's curiosity, by assuring him that our disap- pointment proved, in the end, a matter of entertainment 'to us. In this wretched ex- tremity of the earth, beyond conception bar- barous and inhospitable, out of the reach of civilization, bound and barricaded with ice, and covered with summer snow, we expe- rienced the tenderest feelings of humanity, joined to a nobleness of mind, and elevation (•f sentiment, which would have done honour to any clime and nation. On Sunday the 29th, in the morning, at day-light, Capt. Kmj? was sent with the boats to examine the bay, and to present the letters to the Russian Commander, which tie bad brought from Onalashka. Having pioceeded as far as we were able with the boats, we got upon the ice, which extended near half a mile from the shore. The inba- hitauts had not yet seen either the ship, or \\\e boats ; for even after we had got upon tlio ice, we could not perceive Qny signs of a living creature in the town. We sunk at every step almost knee deep in the snow, and though we found tolerable footing at the bottom, yet the weak parts of the ice not being discoverable, we were constantly ex- postd t(« the danger of breaking through it. riiis ac< ident at last, actually happened to Ca{)t. Kn)g ; who stepping on quickly over a suspicious spot,,in order to press with less weight upon it, he came upon a second be- fore he could 'stop himself, which broke under him, and in hle. I t routs, J growse J with due sportsniei o^t'diuL'ly On sj morning, standing ately disf was moor Resolutioi two sledge into the v shore, to l< •d from II The distan and St. Pa, ^•m'ish nii off in a sled at noon, a'u this niornii journey of 'n 'ittle trn J or the pre der's answei tner belongi fast to the J CO very 's lau which soon on the 4th, 1 »y the wini set at liberti t^st damage.*] sledges havil a Ijoat Was I •liose who wl [Utiu proved! Jioicheretsk,! and theotht drspatches fj ofKamtscha] a/ 'he edge of themagnitui "red yards o] AND ROUND THE WORLD. To;l {lie bay. Several of our nffirers waited upon alarmed; and before they ventured to «'in- tlie ^eijeant, who received them with great bark, stipulated that two of our bout's civility ; and Capt. Clerke sent him a pre- crew should remain on shore, b» hostages tor Rent of two bottles of mm, thinking he iheir safety. It afterwards appeared, for rould not send him any tltinsj^ more accept- what reasons we could not conceive, that aUle. In return, he received twenty tine Ismyloff, in his letter to the Commander, trouts, and some excellent fowls of the had mentioned our ships as two small Irad- growsc kind. Though the bay swarmed ing vessels ; and that the serjeant having with ducks and Greenland pigeons, our seen them at a distance only, had not recti- sportsmen had no success ; for, being ex- fied the mistake. When they had arrived ceedinu;ly shy, they could not kill any. on board, we perceived, by their timid be- On Siiturday, the 1st, of May, in the haviour, that they entertained some very morning, we saw our consort the Discovery, extraordinarv apprehensions. However, an standing into the bay ; a boat was immedi- uncommon degree of satisfaction was vis^ible ately dispatched to her assistance, and she in their countenances, when the German was moored in the afternoon close by the found a person among ns, with whom he Resolution. On the 3rd, in the morning, could enter into conversation. Mr. Webber two sledges having been observed to drive spoke that language fluently, and convinced into the village, Mr. King was ordered on them, though not without diiRculty, that we shore, to learn whether an answer was arriv- were Englishmen and friends. Mr. Port eit from the Commander of Kamtschatka. was introduced to Capt. Clerke, to whom The distance iroin Boleheretsk to St. Peter he delivered the Commander's letter. Ik and St. Paul's is one hundred and thirty-five was written in the German language, and English miljs. The dispatches were sent merely complimental, giving him and his off in a sledge, drawn by dogs, on the 29th, ofhcers an invitation to Boleheretsk. Mr. at noon, a'nd returned with an answer early Port, at the same time, acquainted him, this morning ; so that they performed a that the Major had conceived a very wrong journey of two hundred and seventy miles idea of the size of the ships, and of the ser- m little more than three days and a half, vice they were engaged in ; Ismyloff, in his For the present, the return of the Comman- letter, having represented them as two small der's answer was concealed from us. While backet-boats, and cautioned him to be on Mr. King was on shore, his boat, and ano- nis guard, insinuating, that he suspected us ther belonging to the Discovery, were bound to be no better than pirates. In conse- fast to the ice. In this situation, the Dis- quence of this letter, he said, there had been covery's launch was sent to their assistance, various conjectures formed about us at Bol- which soon partook of the same fate ; but cheretsk. We were much diverted with the on the 4th, tne floating ice was drifted away, feafs and apprehensions of these people; by the wind changing, and the boats were and especially with an account given by Mr. set at liberty, without sustaining the small- Port, of the Serjeant's extreme caution the est damage. At ten o'clock, A. M. several day before. On seeing Mr. King and some sledges having arrived at the edge of the ice, other gentlemen come on shore, he conceal- a boat was sent from the ship to conduct ed him and the Russian merchant in the Miose who were in them on board. One of kitchen, to give them an opportunity of lis- tiiem proved to be a Russian merchant from tening to our conversation with each other, Boleheretsk, whose name was Fedositch ; in order to discover whether we were Eng- and the other a German, named Port, with lishmen or not. i disnatches from Major Behm, Commander Being now enabled, by the aid of an in- of Kamtschatka, to Capt. Clerke. Arriving terpreter, to converse with the Russians, our at the edge of the ice, and seeing distinctly first enquiries were directed to the means the magnitude of the ships, within two hun- of procuring a supply of fresh provisions dred yards of them, they were exceedingly and naval stores ; particularly the latter, for 6 D ♦l %h P i it 764 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, the wnnt of whidi we had been in great dii- stress. On enquiry, it appeared, that the whole slock of live cattle, which the country Huovit the buy could furnish, amounted only to two heifers ; and these the Serjeant very readily promised to secure for us. Our next npplicutions were made to the merchant, whose terms for serviog us were so exorbi- tant, that Capt. Clerke thoup:ht it expedient to send an express to the Commander, to learn the price of stores at Bolcheretsk. This determination being communicated to Mr. Port, he dispatched a messenger to the Comnanderat Bolcheretsk, to acquaint him with our intentions, and to remove the sus- picions that had been entertained respect- ing the purposes of our voyage. For the above service, Mr. King was fixed upon, and ordered to prepare for setting oat the next day, together with Air. Weblier, who was to accompany him as interpreter. That day, and the next, however, the weather proved too stormy for beginning a journey through so desolate and wild a country : but on Fri- day, the 7th, of May, the weather became more favourable, and we set out in the ship's boats, early in the morning, in order to reach the entrance of the Awatska at high-water, on account of the shoals at the tn:}uth of that river. The country boats were to meet us herc; to roundnct us up the stream. Capt. Goivj was also avkled to our party, and ve were likewise accompanied by Mr. Port and the Russian merchant, with two Cossacks, having been previously fnrt\ished with warm furred clothing; a very necessary precaution, as it began to snow briskly immediately aftes' our setting Out. About eight o'clock, we were stopped by shoal water^ within a mile of the mouth of the, river; when soijie KamtschadaK^s took us and oir baggage, in some small ca- noes, and conveyed us over a bank of sand, which the rapidity of the river had thrown up, and which we were informed, was con- tinually shifting. Having passed this shoal, the water again deepened, and we Mere fur- nished with a commodious boat, resembling a Norway yawl, to convey us up the river, togelhtr \*ilh canoes for the reception of our Oajfgvige^ The breadth of the mouth o/thft •i ^walska is about a quarter uf a niili\ but it gradually narrowed as Nve advanced. Having proceeded a few miles, we passed several branches, many of which, we were told, emptied themselves into other parts of the bay ; and that some of those on the left ran into the Paratounca river. For the (irst ten miles, the general direction of the river from the bay^ is to the N. and afterwards it turns to the westward. Except this bend, it chiefly preserves a straight course ; and tiows throu<^h u low flat country, to the dis- tence of thirty miles irom the sea, which is subject to frequent inundations. Six men were employed in pushing us on with long poles, three of them being at each end of the boat ; and proceeded against the stream, at the rate of about three mdes an hour. Our conductors endured this severe labour for ten hours ; stopping only once, and that for a short space of time, to take a little re- freshment. Having been informed, at our first setting out, that wc could easriy reach Karatchin that night, we were greatly disap. pointed to find ourselves fifteen miles from that place at sun-set. This was attributed to the delay in passing the shoals, both at the entrance of the river, and in many (ither places. Oiirmen being exceedingly fatigued, and as the difficulty of navigating the river would have increased by the darkness of the night, we declined all thoughts of prorefd- ing on our jonrney that evening ; we there- lore fixed nii'iu a place that was tolerably well sheltered, and, clearing it of the snow, erccti»d a small mar(|nee, which we had providentially t;.ken with us; and, with the assistance of a good fire, and some exc llent punch, passed the ni}?ht agreeably. Our principal inconvenience was, the being oblig- ed to keep at a considerable distance from the fire ; for as soon as it was lighted, it thawed every part round it into an absolute puddle. The Knmtschadales were extremely aiertand expeditious in erecting our marquee, and cooking our provisions ; but v? vere much surprized at binding they bar. urought with them their nten^Us for making tea, considsring it as a most intolerable hardship if they cannot, two or three times a day, regale themselves* with drinking tea. When AND ROUND THE WORLD. :.v; dviy-li^'ht appeared, we proceeded on our jouruey, and, before we had made much pro- gress, we were met by the Toion, or chief of Karatchin, who, being apprized of our com- ing, had provided canoes that were better accommodated for navigating Ihe higher farts of the river. A commodious vessel, (made by lashing two canoes togetiier) fur- nished with fur cloakes, and lined with bear-skins was also procured for us. We now proceeded rapidly, the Toion's people being remarkably expert in this kind of .bu- siness. At ten we arrived at the Ostrog, named Karatchin, and the seat of his com- mand, where we were received by the Kamts- chadale men and women, and some Russian servants belonging to the merchant, Fedos- itch. They were all attired in their best habiliments; those of the women being gay and pleasing, and consisting of a loose robe of white nankeen, gathered close round the neck, and fastened with a silk collar. A sliort jacket,'without sleeves, was worn over this, consisting of different coloured nan- keens ; and they had petticoats made of a slight Chinese silk. Their shifts, which were also made of «ilk, had sleeves extend- ing to the wrists ; and their heads were bound with coloured silk handkerchiefs, which entirely concealed the hair of the married women ; but the unmarried ones placed the k&ndkerchief under the hair, permitting it to flow loosely down the slioulders. The Ostrog of Karatchin is pleasantly situated on the side of the river, and com- posed of three lo^-houses, nineteen balgans, or summer habitations, and three jourts, which are houses under ground. The J'oion, to whose dwelling we were then conducted, was a pla*:i decent man, sprung from a Rus- sian mother, and a Kamtschadale father. His house, like all others in this count rv, consisted of only two ;out three feet in diameter, is formed by together. Mr. King was attended by a good the main spring; besides which, there are natured Cossack, who was so imperfect in his several lesser springs, of equal heat, in the business, that hewascontinuaily overturning, adjacent ground; by which means the whole which affordedgrealentertiinnienttohiscom- spot, consisting of about an acre, was so panions. The narty consisted of ten sledges very hot that we could not remain two in the whole. That v, hich conducted Capt. minutes in the same place. The water issn- Gore, was formed of two lashed together, ing from these sjirings, supplies a small and was plentifully furnisiied with furs and bathing pond, and afterwards a little rivulet, bear-skins. It was drawn by ten dogs, which conducts it into the river, at the dis- yoked fcur abreast ; and those which were tance of about one hundred and fifty yards, laden with heavy baggage, were drawn by Great cures, they informed us, had been ef- the same number. We had not proceeded fected by this bath, in rheumatisms, scorbu- more than four miles^on our jonrney, when tic ulcers, swelled and contracted joints, and it began to rain, which, together with the many other disorders. Where these springs darkness of the night, threw us into some flow, the ground is on a gentle asr >nt ; hav- confusion. It was, after some little consul- ing a green hill of a moderate size behind it. tation, agreed, that we should continue Some plants seemed to thrive here with where we were, till day-light ; we therefore great luxuriance, among which we observed aecured our sledges, wrapped ourselves up the wild garlick. in furs, and waited patiently for the morning. Monday, the 10th, in the morning, we em- At three o'clock we were siHumoned to pro- barked on the Bolchoiieeka ; and going ceed ; our guides expressing their apprehen- with the stream, expected to arrive at our sions, that if we waited any longer, the thaw journey's «nd the following day. Though would perhaps stop us, and prevent our ad- JJolcheretsk is eighty miles from Natohee- vancnig or returning. Tliough we had many ditficulties to encounter, owing prin- cipally to the bad condition of the road, we got safe to an ojtrog about two in the after- noon. It is called Natcheekin, and is situ- ated on a small stream, which falls into the Bol.choireka, at some distance below the town. It is twenty-tive miles from Karat- chin ; which, by their account, we could have cornpas.sed in four hou?'s, had the frost C'Mitinued ; bat the snow was so soft that t')e poor at'.irnals sunk up to their bi^llies at almost ever>' step ; and it was indeed sur- prizing that they should be able to support tiuinselves under so fatiguing a journey. This inconsiderable ostrog consists of one log-house, the residence of the Toion, one kin, we were infornitid, that, in the summer, when the nieltijigof snow on the mountains has rendered the river full and rapid, the canoes have offen gone there in a single day : but now they told us we should be much longer, the ice having borkeu up only three days before our arrival, and our's being the tirst boat that had attempted to pass. There was but too much truth in this intel- ligence ; ^fbr we were greatly impeded by the siiallows ; and, though the stream was rapid in many places, we frequently hml rip|)lings and shoals and were under thu necessity of hauling the boats over them. On each side of the river the coin:try wai romantic, but not di isified ; the course of U being between craggy mountains, of a iourt, and live balayans. We were received inost dreary and barren aspect; with nothing 5 '4 I ' I k I 758 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, to vary the scence, except now and then the wight of a bear, or a flock of wild-fowl. Tliis, and the following night, we slept under i-jur marquee, on the banks of the river, and suffered greatly from the severity of the weather. Wednesday the 12th, at day-light, we had pas«;ed the mountains, and were proceeding through a low extensive plain, on which vVere a number of shrubby trees. Atninein the morning, we reached an ostrog, called Opatchin, of about the same magnitude as Karatchin, and supposed to be tifty miles from Natcheekin. A Serjeant and four Rus- 8iiin soldiers had been here two days, waiting for our arrival ; who instantly dispatched a light boat to Bolcheretsk to give intelligence of our approach. A magnifitent canoe, j)lentifuily furnished with skins and furs, was prepared for our reception, and we were very commodiously equipped ; but our fel- low-travellers w«re excluded. It gave us some concern to be separated from our old companion Mr. Port, who daily grew iKore shy and distant, as we drew nearer to the completion of our journey. He acknow- ledged, indeed, before we set out, that he was not entitled to the respect we had shewn liim ; but, finding him discreet, and not pre- suming, we had insisted on his taring as we did, throughout the journey. We performed the ''.-.'iainder of our passage, with the ut- most cuse and expedition ; for as we descend- ed, the river grew more rapid, and had very iiiw obstructions. On our approaching Kamtschatka, we judged, from an appear- rance of great stir and busde, that our re- ception Was to be in form. Thiscircumstance was ("' had long travelling blai^e of the nittdes of India, Europe, and K'init!;chatka. To make a parade through llie metropolis in this motley trim, we tliou.!,iii: would appear ridiculous; and, as we observed a crowd of people collected on the banks of (lie river, and were informed titat tlie Commander would receive us at the v\ater-si*!e, we stopfied at the house of a soldier, about a quarter of a mile before we came to the town. Here W« dispatched ealile to us, as decent clothing >* been scarce among us ; and our habits formed a strange assem- Mr. Port with a message to his excellency, .acquainting him, that as soon as we had put ofl^ our travelling dresses, we would at- tend him at his own house to pay our res. pects to him ; and entreated him not to think of waiting to conduct us. He persist- ed, however, in his resolution of paying us this compliment, and we immediately pro- ceeded to join him at the entrance of the capital. We were all remarkably awkard and defective, in making our first salutations ; not having been accustomed to bowing and scraping, fo- at least two years and an half. The Commander received us in a most en- gaging manner ; but we had the mortifica- tmn to discover, that he had almost wholly forgot the French languap^e ; so that only Mr. Webber had the satisfaction of convers- ing with him, as he spoke the German, which was his native tongue. Major fiehtn was accompanied by Capt. Shmalei^V' the next in command, and another oflicer ; the whole body of merchants attended also. We were conducted U* the commander's house, where we were politely and respect- fully received by his lady ; who had prepar- ed tea and other refreshments. The first compliments being over, Capt. Gore d'esired Mr. Webber to acquaint the M.jor, that we were distressed for want of naval stores, fresh provisions, flour and other necf usuries; and that we were convinced we could not receive much assistance from him, in the country about Awatska Bay, from what we had already seen and heard ; that the impose sibility of conveying heavy stores over the peninsula, at that season, we were but too sensible of, from the difficulties we had en- countered in our journey ; and that we could not delay the prosecution of our voyage, to wait for any material change. Here the Major interrupted Mr. Webber by observing, that we knew not what they were capable of doing; that he should not bestow a tho&ght upon the difficulties of supplying our wants: he only wished to know \%hat articles we stood in need of, and the time he could be allowed for procuring them. After expressing our acknowledgments for his obliging condescension we presented him aa account of thfe naval stores^ cattle, and AND ftOUND THE WORLD. zr.iy e had lid at- ir res- not to )er si st- ing us y j)ro- of tlie iwkard ations -, ng ami n half, lost en- srtifica- wholly rat only jonvers- jerman, »r Behm cer ; the ed also, iiiander's respect- 1 prepar- Phe tiist e d'esired , that we stores, .-.suries; ould not 1, in the what we le impos- over the e but too had en- we could lyage, to iere the bserving, B capable jestow a upplying ow what the time g them, nients for nted him ittle, and flour, we were directed to purchase ; and in- formed him, that we intended to prosecute our voyage about the dth, of June. After this, \hfld conversation became more general^ and it might naturally be supposed, that we were anxious to obtain some information respecting our native country. Having been three years absent, we entertained the most flattering expectations, of receiving some interesting intelligence from Major Behm: but we were greatly disappointed, when he assured us, that he could not com- municate any intelligence of a much later date than that of our quilting England. The Commander, supposing we might be fatigued, and desirous of repttse, begged leave [o conduct us to our lodgings, at about seven o\lock. It was useless to protest against a compliment, to which we had no other title than that of being strangers. That alone, with this generous Livonian, was suificient to counteFbaiance every otiier consideration. In going along, we passed two guard-houses, where the men were nn- iler arms, in compliment to Cupt. Gore, and were conducted to a neat decent house, which the Major had appointed for our re- KJdeuce, while we continued at Kamtschatka. We had two sentinels posted at our door, and a sergeant's guard in an adjoining house, liaving disposed of us in our apartments, the Major took his leave, promising to visit lis the next day. We were now at leisure to discover the conveniences which he had \vii)[i\y provided for us. Our fellow-traveller, Mr. Port, and a soldier, of a rank between that of a Serjeant and a corporal, (called a piil|)ropersckuck) we fixed upon to be our male domestics. We had also a housekeeper, aiul a cook, who were ordered to obey Mr. Port's directions in dressing us a supper, after the English mode of cookery. In the course of the evening, we were favoured with i» number of civil messages, from the princi- pal inhabitants of the town, politely observ- ing', that their attending to pay their res- jiects to us at that time, would add to our fatigues, but they would do themselves that honour the next morning. Such attention and politeness, in so uncultivated apd desor late a country, formed a contrast highly in favour of its inhabitants : and, in addition tv) their civility, at sun-set, the serjeant brought the report of his guard to Capt. Gore. In the morning of the 13th, compliniejits were sent us by the Major, Capt. ShmaletK, and the most respectable people of the town, from all whom we were honoured with visits soon after. The two former having, after we had retired to rest, enquired of Mr Port what articles we stood in the greatest need of on board the ships; they insisted on our sharing with their garrison, in the small stock of provisions they had then remaining ; lamenting, at the same, time that our arrival should happen to be in that season of the year, when scarcity reigned universally among them; the sloops from Okotsk not being yet arrived with their annual suj)ply. We thankfully accepted t.he liberal offer of these hospitable strangers ; on condition, however, that we should be made acquainted with the price of the articles we received from them, that Capt. Clerke might ;.''aw upon the Victualling Office, in London, for the amount. This was refused iu the most positive terms ; and, though repeatedly urged, the Major ulways stopped us short, by saying, that his mistress would be highly gratified al his ren'deriu!? evt-ry assisilance in his power to the English, who sue lier good friends and allies; and that it would give her a peculiar satisfaction to find, that in such remote regions, her dominions had aflbrded any relief to vessehengag'ed in such important services. He added, that he could not, therefore, act so contrary to the princi- ples of his Empress, as to think of receiving any bills ; but, if we insisted on it, we might give him a bare certificate of the articles he might supply us witi), which he would transmit to the court of Russia, as an evidence of having performed his duty. All farther acknowledgments, continued he, must be submitted to the two courts, but you must excuse me from acceding to your proposal. This matter being adjusted, he reqntsted to be informed respecting our private wants, saying he should consider it as ofi'ering hiiiv an affront, if we applied to any of the mer- chants, or hud dealings with any other per* son except himself. i I I. .. • |i. !* c; i 560 VOYAGE TOWAIIDS THE NORTH POLE, ■^v.% 5 Not having it in our ])Ower to make an ndeqiiate return for such sing^ular generosity, he had only our thanks and admiration. At this moment, Mr. King recollected, that Cu|)t. Clerke had sent by him a set of the cng^ravings to Capt. Cook's second voyage, ilesirinij;- liim to present it, in his name, to the CDuunander. Nothing could have been inure acceptable to him than this present, the Major being an enthusiast in all matters relative to discoveries. Capt. Clerke had also given Mr. King a discretionary power, of permitting the Commander to see a chart of the discoveries made in the present voy- age ; and, judging from his situation a-^d disposition of mind, that he would be high'y gratified by such a communication ; though, from motives of delicacy, he had only asked M few general questions on the subject, Mr. King reposed in him that coittidence, which his whole conduct so justly merited He felt this compliment as it uas iniended lie should, and was struck at beholding, in oiie view, the whole oft' at coast on the side of Asiu and America, which his countrymen had been su long employed in acquiring an imperfect knowledge of. Except this mark of confidence, and the set of copper-plates already mentioned, we had nothing with us deserving of his acceptance; for it was hardly worth noticing, that Mr. King pre- vaded on his son (who was quite a youth) to accept of a silver watch ; and contributed to his little daughter's happiness, by pre- senting her with two pair of ear-rings, of French paste. He also gave Capt. Shmalelt' the thermometer which we had used on his journey, when he engaged to keep a regis- ter of the temoerature of the air for one whole year, ancl to transmit it to Mr. Mul- ler, with whom he was acquainted. This day we dined at the Commander's, who, ever studious to grat fy our curiosity, had prepared a variety of dishes dressed after the liussian and Kamtschadale manner, besides a number of others in the English style. In the afternoon, we took a survey of the town, anil the Re- from llifc khedirec« /hich ha!t and ven- ndatioMs. town, \ii breadth e distanc*' itself into apable of corn, of art of the 1 us, that had been as covered I free from )cUs. We s, and the ;s. These, tame ani- :reat nuiu- only such in strensfth ole of the rned loose, ; and are will even s are all in gs of wood, bouse is, t, and has pered ; but dows, pave ippearance. igs, in rows .connected the whole itchen and le dwelling re are also and Cos- ourt-rooni ; number of inhabitants A hand- >ythe Ma- ^ere invited both sexes. i^ bi [a bi u c u i (P. hi 1 < ;■■ h;i I' 5 ■t; < 'l; i t ^^ '■i.lH^.MWWl .>fii(iu|)licutioii Co Fedositch, the luerohant, in order to pur- chase some tobacco ; the sailors having' been without that favourite commodity lor up- wards ot a year. This however, bUe other sinii'iar transactions, came immediately to the knowledge of the Commander ; and, in a very short time, after we were surprised to find four bags of tobacco in our house, each containing unwinds of one hundred pounds ; whicls the Alajor requested might be pre- sented to our sailors, in his name, and that of the garrison under his command. By the same conveyance we received twenty loaves of sugar, and as manj;[ pounds df tea, which they requested the officers to accept of; as they understood that we were almost destitute of those articles. A present was also sent by Madame Behm, for Capt. Clerke, which consisted of honey, butter, figs, rice, and other articles: accompanied with her best wishes, that, in his infirm state, they might prove serviceable to him. We strenuously endeavoured to oppose this profusion of bounty, and were extremely anxious to restrain it ; fully convinced that iliey were giving us almost the whole stock of their garrison. But the answer we re- cti \ed tVom the Major, on these occasions, generally was, thfit he had been in dis- tress himself, and he was sensible that we must now be in that situation. The length of time, indeed, since we had touched at any known port, appeared to them almost incredible, and seemed to require the evi- dence of our maps, and other concurrent circumstances, to obtain their credit. Among tlie latter, we shall mention a curious fact, which Major Behm related to us this morn- ing, and whicli he said he should not have known how to account for, but for our ar- rival. Amojig tlfe people of the north of Asia, it is well kriown, that the Tschutski oiilv have maintained their independence, aiul resisted all the efforts of the Russians to reduce them. The last attempts were in IT'W, and after variety of tem|)orary advan- tasre on each side, the llussian forces re- treated, after having lost their commanding nijicer. The Russians afterwards removed their frontier fortress, from the Anadyr tq 6 £ the Ingiga, a river which runs into tin. northern extrejuity of the sea of OkotsU. iuul gives its name to a gulph, west of thatPen- shink. On the day of our arrival at BoU cheretsU,the Major had received dispatches from this fort, acquainting him, that a |aring for ed to take ir pa'-'^^ge wit' n- P' ' 1 t we na' ere much which foi- ls, we saw le garrison the other, 'tlie town, Muiy of the )ng, wliich to sing on e marched er's house, ^ic belong- •e received by seve- )kes, lined fling a most lartook of proviiled n er-side, at- \ with the nd, havin;;" after assur- isnitalily of jle in C7"r hearts, we were too much aiTected not to hasten into the hoats. At putting off, we received three cheers, which we immediately returned ; and, on doubling a point, where we last beheld our friendly entertainers, they still added to our feelings, by a farewel cheer ! On our return, the stream was so exceedingly rapid, that notwithstanding the utmost exertions of our conductors, we did not arrive at the first village, Opatchin, till the 17th, in the evening, which did not ex- ceed the rate of twenty miles a day. On the 19th, we reached Natcheekin, and crossed the plain to Karatcliin on the 2()tli. The road was in much better order than when we passed it before, as it froze smartly in the night of the lyth. We proceeded down the Awatska river on Friday, the 21st, and passed over the shoals, at the entrance of the bay, before it was dark. ]Jurii)g the whole of our journey, we were highly pleas- ed with the willingness and alacrity, with which the Toions and their Kamtsohadales assisted us at the ditierent Ostrogs. On s e- ing the Mayor, joy a|)peared in every coun- tenance ; and they were much afFected upon being informed that he would shortly leave them. A messenger had t)een dis|)atched from Bolcheretsk to Ca|)t. Clerke, acquaint- ing him with the nature of our reception ; and that the Major intended to accompany us on our return ; apprizing him, at the same time, of the day he might expect us. W^e observed, with pleasure, as we approach- eossessed of the princi- pal facts cf our voyage. It wa^ farther resolved, thfit a smaller packet should be dispatched from Okotsk, which the Major supposed would reach Petersburgh by JJe- «eml)er ; and that he expected to arrive there himself in February or March. The Major was entertained alternately in the tv/o ships, as well as we were able, the three f6llo;ving days. Vn\ Thursday, the 25th, he departed, and was sainted vv'ith ihirteen guns ; the sailors, at their own request, expressing their regard for him by three cher rs. Mr. King and Mr. Webber attended him, the next morning, some few miles up the Awat- ska river, where the Russian priest and his family were waiting to bid a last adieu to ilieir Cr>mniander. When taking our leave of the Major, it is ditficnlt to say, whether tlie worthy priest ard his family or ourselves wt^ve most atlected. Though our acquaint- aiK.e had been of short «luriitiun,- his beiia- viour had inspired us with the highest esteem for him ; and we could not part (perhaps for ever; with one, to whoiw we were under such infinite obligations, .villiout indulging the most tender feelings. Exclu- sive of the stores which might probably he carried lo a public account, the value of the private presents bestowed on us, must have anrounted to upwardsof two hundred pounds. B'jt, however extraordinary this generosity may appear, it was exceeded by his delicacy in conierring favours, and his ingenious eit- dcavoursto prevent our feeling the weight ot obligUtions, which he knew we were unable to requite. In supporting a public cliarat- ter, and maintaining the honour of his sove- reign, he is still more entitled to our admi- ration, as he was actuated by sentiments tlie most noble and enlarged. The service in which we were engaged, he told us, was for the general benefit of mankind ; and en. titled us to the offices of humanity, and the privileges of citizens, in whatever country we might be driven. That, by afJbiJing us such relief as vis in his power, he was cer- tain that he was acting agreeably to the wishes of his empress; and tliat he could not so entirely forget her character, or his own honour, as to barter fortiie performanre of a duty. Among other things he said, Iw made a particular point of setting a good example to (he Kamtschadales, w!io tvere just emerging from a state of barbarism ; that '.hey considered the Russians as their t patterns, . in every respect ; and that he lOped they would, in future, think it a duty incumbent on them to render strangers every assistance in their power, and believe it to be the universal practice of all polished and civilized nations. The Major having, so far as he was capable, relieved our present distresses, he was. not unmindftd of our fu- ture wants ; and, imagining we should not be able to discover the passage we weie in search of, and that we should return tu Kamtschatka ; he procured from Captain Clerke, the particulars of what Hour and cordage he should want, |iromising to send them from Okotsk, to wait odr arrival. He al.so presented the Ca|)tain with a written paper, en joining every Russian subject io AND ROUND THE WORLD. ,)•» ot part ioi\i we ,vilh()i»t Exclii- ably l)e e of the ist bave , pounds. iiierosity delicacy ious en- weight ot re unable : cbara<'- his sove- nr aduii- ments the service in Lis, was for and en- y, and the ;r country foiiing us ; was eer- ily to the t be could ter, or his ^rforuiante le said, Iw ing a good who were rarbarisui ; \s as iheii jd that he i it a duty ngers every lieve it to bsbed aiid having, so our present of our lu- sboidu u<'t we weie iu i return to )m Captain .t flour and ■int; to send arrival. He lb a written subject t» assisl us to the utmost of their abilities, so that it frequently lianpened, that we Havinj? thus given a narrative of the journey could not take into the ships tho |)resents of our party to, and their return from I^ol- which were sent us. They generally eoii- cheretsk, their reception there, and the de- sisted of herrings, trout, flat fish, and cod. jKirture of Major Behm, we shall now recount The former, which were in their highest the transactions which passed at Petropau- perfection, and of a delicious flavour, were lowsva durinif our absence. in extreme plenty in this buy. The people On Friday, the 7th, of May, not long" after of the Discovery, at one time, surrounded we had t]uitted the bay of Awatska, a great such an amazing quantity in their seine, p ece of ice drove 'against the Resohitiun that they were obliged to throw out a very and brotight home the small bower, anchor ; considerable number, lest the net siiould be in consequence of which, the other anchor broken to pieces; and the cargo they land- was weighed, and the ship was moored ed was still .so abundant, that, besides hav- again. The carpenters, who were occupied ing a sufiicient stock for immediate use, in stopping the leak, were under the neces- they filled as many casks as they could con- tily of taking oft* great part of the sheathing veniently spare for salting: and, after send- from the bows ; and many of the trunnels ing on board the Resolution a tolerable were found to be so loose and rotten, that quantity for the same purpose, they left they were drawn out easily with the Angers, behind several bushels upon the beach. On Tuesday the 11th, heavy gales blew from The ice and snow now began rapidly to the N. E. which obliged both vessels to disappear, and plenty of nettle-tops, celery, strike their yards and top-masts ; but the and wild garlick, were gathered for the weather becoming more moderate in the use of the crews ; which being boiled with afternoon, and the ice having drifted away portable soup and wheat, furnished them as far as the mouth of the harbour of Petro- with an excellent and salutary breakfast; paulovvska, they warped close to the shore and with this they were every morning sup- ior the greater convenience of procuring plied. The birch-trees were also tapped, wood and water, and again moored, as be- and the sweet juice, of which they produced fore; the mouth of the bay shut in by the great quantities, was constantly mixed with most southerly point of Rakowina harbour, the brandy allowed to the men. On the bearing S. and the town N. tu.lf W. at tKe 10th, a small bullock was killed, which distance of half a mile. On the r2th, a the serjeaut had procured for the ship's riarty was detached to cut wood, but made com|)anies. Its weight was two hundred ittle progress in that service, on account of and seventy-two pounds. It was serve a J or ploy, in our service, all the Kamtscadales ; r his cumpanions. Watnjau \v;i., si-pi-o-eil o.v I i. t 766 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, us to be about sixty years old; and Roberts, and Mr. Anderson, from the decline which had manifestly commenced before our de- parture from England, most probably could not, under any circumstances, have lived to a later period than they did. Captain Clerk's health continuing daily to decline, notwithstanding the salutary change of diet which Kamtschatka afford- ed him, the p'I'stof Paratounca, as soon as he was informed of the >weak state he was in, supplied him every day with milk, bread, fowls, and fresh butter, though his habitation was sixteen miles fronr the har- bour where our ships were stationed. On our arrival, the Russian hospital, near the town of St. Peter and St. Paul, was in a very deplorable state. All the soldiers were, in a greater or less degree, afflicted with the scurvy, many being in the last stage of that disorder.. The rest of the Russian inliabi- tants were likewise in a similar condition ; and we observed, that our friend the serjeant, by drinking too freely of the spirits he had received from us, he brought on himself, in the course of a few days, several of the most alarming symptoms of that disease. Capt. Gierke, desirous of relieving them from this lamentable state, put them all under the care of our surgeons, and gave orders, that a supply of sour krout, and malt, for wort, should be furnished for their use. A surprising alteration soon took place in the figures of most of them ; and their speedy recovery was chiefly attributed to the effects of the sweet wort. On Tuesday, the 1st, of June, two hundred and fifty poods, or nine thousand pounds weight of rye flour, were brought on board the Resolution ; and the Discovery received a proportional quantity. We were supplied with this flour from the stores of Petropan- lowska. The men were now put on their full allowance of bread, which from the time of our leaving the Cape of Good Hope, they had not been indulged in. The same day, we completed our stock of water, sixty-five tons having been conveyed on board. Fri- day the 4th, we had fresh breezes, and heavy rains, so that we were disappointed in our design of dressing the sliips, and obliged to content ourselves with firing tyyenty-one gunS, in honour of His Majesty's birth-day, and celebrating it, in other resl pects, in the best manner we could. Port, who, on account of his skill in languages,' yas left with us, partook, as well as the Ser- jeant, (in the capacity of commandant of the place) of the ente tainment of the day. The worthy priest of Paratounca, having been informed that it was the anniversary of our sovereign's birth, gave likewise a sumptuous feast, at which several of our gentlemen were present, who were highly j)leased with their entertainment, of which dancing formed a part. On the 6th, twenty liead of cattle arrived, iiaving been sent us, by the directions of the commander, from the Verchnei Ostrog, which stands on the river Kamtschatka, at the distance of almost a hundred miles from this place. These cat- tle were of a moderate size ; and, though the Kamtschadales had been seventeen days in driving them down to the harbour, were in good condition when they arrived. The four succv^edingdays were employed in mak- ing preparations for putting to sea ; and on Friday, the liih, about two o'clock in the morning, we began to unmoor. Before, however, we had got up one anchor, so vio- lent a gale sprung up from the N. E. that we thought proper to moor again, supposing, from the position of the entrance of tht' b; the passage on the eastern two hours after, a thick fo^ coming on, we shore, we were driven very near the three were under the necessity ot bringing to, our needle rocks, situated on that side of the soundings not affording us a sufficient direc- entrance and ^ o under the necessity of tion for steering betwixt several sunken hoisting out i boats, for the purpose of rocks, situated on each side of the passage towing the ships clear of them. At twelve we were to make. The next morning, the o'clock, we were at the distance of six miles fog ip some degree dispersing, we weighed from the land ; and our de^ptli of water wa» as soon as the tide began to ebb ; and, there forty-three fatiioms, over a bottom of small being little wind, the boats were sent a-head stones, of the same kind with those which to tow ; but, about ten o'clock, both the had fallen upon our decks, after the late wind and tide set in so strong from the sea, eruption of the volcano. The country had 7 (»f the sky, and the snl|»hnreous smell of the air, produced a very .iwful and trrmemlous dis» Mice from the foot of the li 768 VOVAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, now a very diiTerent appearance from what it had on our first arrival. The snow, ex- cept what remained on the suinmits of some very lofty mountains, had vanished ; and the sides of the hills, wliich abounded with ivood in many parts, were covered with a beautiful verdure. As our Coujmander in- tended to keep in sis^ht of the coast of Kamtschatka, as much as the weather would allow, in order to ascertain its position, we continued to steer towards the N N. E. with, variable light winds, till Friday the 18th. The volcano was still observed to throw np immense volumes of smoke ; and we did not strike a:round with an hundred and fifty fathoms of line, at the distance of twelve miles from the shore. This day the wind blew fresh from the S. and the weather be- came so thick and hazy, that it was impru- dent to make any further attempts at present to keep in sight of the land. However, that •xe might be ready, whenever the fog should clear up, to resume our survey, We ran on in the direction of the coast, (as represented in the Russian charts) and fired signal guns for the Discovery to proceed on the same course. At eleven o'clock, just before we lost sight of land, Cheepoonskoi Noss, so denomiu'ated by the Russians, .was at the distance of seven or eight leagues, bearing N. N. E. On the 20th, at three o'clock in the morning, the weather becoming clearer, we stood in towards the land ; and, in the space of an hour afterwards, saw it a-head extending from N. W. to N. N. E. at the distance of about five leagues. The north- ern part we conjectured to be Kronotskoi Noss ; its position in the Russian charts, nearly agreeing with our reckoning in res- pect to its latitude, which was 54 deg. 42 min. N. though, in point of longitude, we differed considerably from them ; for tliey place it 1 deg. 48 min. E. of Awatka; whereas our computation makes it 3 rep:. JJ4 min. E. of that place, or 162 deg. 17 min. E. of Greenwich. The land about this c.ipe is very elevated, and the inland moun- tains, were at this time, covered with snow. There in no appearance of inlets or bays in the coast ; and the shore breaks off in steep cliffs. We had not long been gratitied with 8 this view of the land, when the wind fresh- ened from the S. W. bringiiigon a thick fog, which obliged us to standoff in the direction of N. E. by E. The fog dispersing about noon, we again steered for the land, expect- ing to fall in with Kamtschatskoi Noss, and gained a sight of it at day-break on the21sr. The S. W. wind being soon atter ^ncneeded by a light breeze that blew off the land, we were prevented from approaching the coast sufHciently near to determine its direction, or describe its aspect. At noon, our long, was 163 deg. 50 min. andourlat. 55 deg. 52 min. the extremes of the land bore N, W. by W. three quarters W. and N. by W. three quarters W. and the nearest part was at the distance of about twenty-four miles. At nine in the evening, when we had ap- proached about six miles nearer the coast, it appeared to form a projecting peninsula, and to extend eleven or twelve leagues in the direction nearly of N. and S. It is level, and of a moderate elevation ; the southern extreme terminates in a low sloping point ; that to the northward forms a steep bluff head : and Iwtween them, ten or twelve miles to the S. of the northern cape, there is a considerable break in the land. On both sides of this break, the land is low. A re- markable hill, resembling a saddle, rises beyond the opening; and a chain of lofty mountains, capped with snow, extends along the back of the whole peninsula. As the coast runs in an even direction, we were uncertain with respect to the position of Kamtschatskoi Noss, which, according to Mr. Mnller, forms a projecting point towards the middle of the peninsula ; but we after- wards found, that, in a late Russian map, that appellation is given to the southern cape. The latitude of this, from several accurate observations, was 56 deg. 3 min. and its longitude, 16.'5 deg. 20 min. To the S. of this peninsula, the great river Kamt- schatka runs into the sea. The .season being too far advanced fur ns to make an accurate survey of the roast of Kamtschatka, if was the design of Capt. CK rke, on our course to Beering's Straights, t » ascertain chiefly the respective situations < ' the prf>jecting points of the coast. We therefore steered across a AND ROUND THE WORLD. 3 J fresli- »ick fo'^, lirectioii g about expect- oss, and the 21 St. icneetled and, we tlie coast lirection, )ur long. 55 deg. 1 bore N. ^. by W. part was »ur miles. '. had ap- the coast, peninsula, j(uesin the t is level, > southern ng point; iteep bluff or twelve )e, there is On both w. A re- ddle, rises lin of lofty extends [isula. As n, we were )ositi«n of wording to nt towards we after- ssian map, southern m several eg. 3 min. n. Tollie ver Kamt- eason being n accurate ka, it was ir course to chietly the ling points :d across 3 .'pacious bay* laid. down between Kamtschat- ^koi Noss and Olutorskoi Noss, with a view (f making the latter; which is represented I y the Russian geographer:), as terminating the peninsula of Kamtschatka. and as being the southern limit of the country of the Koriacs. On Tuesday, the 22nd, we passed a dead whale, which emitted a most horrible smell, perceivable at the distance of three or four miles. It was covered with a very consider- able number of ^ulls, petrels, and other oceanic birds, which were regaling them- selves upon it. On the 24th, the wind, which had shifted about during the three preceding days, settled at S. W. bringing on clear weather, with which we proceeded towards the II. E. by N. across the bay, hav- ing no land in sight In the course of this day, we observed a great number of gulls, and were disgusted with the indelicate man- ner of feeding of the arctic gull, which has procured it tne appellation of the parasite. This bird, which is rather larger than the common gull, pursues the latter species whenever it meets them ; the gull, after fly- ing about for some time, with loud screams, and manifest indications of extreme terror, drops its excrements, which its pursuer in- stantly darts at, and catches in its beak be- fore it falls into the sea. On Friday, the25lh, atone o'clock, P. M. when in the latitude of 59 deg. 12 min. and in the longitude of 168 deg. 35 min. a very thick fog came on, about the time we ex- pected to obtain a view of Olutorskoi Noss, which (if Muller's position of it, in the lati- tude of 59 deg. 30 min. and in the longitude of 167 deg. 36 min. is right) could then have been only twelve leagues from us ; at which distance, we might easily have discerned land of a moderate height. Our depth of water, it preesnt, was so great, that we had no ground with an hundred and sixty fathoms of line. The fog still continuing, prevented us from making a nearer approach to the land, and we steered E. by N. at five o'clock, whicii is a little more easterly than the Rus- sian charts represent the trending of the coast from Olutorskoi Noss. The next day, a fresh, icale blew from the S. W. which lasted till noon on the-27tlr, when the wea*. ther clearing up, we steered to the N. with an intention oi making the land. Our la-* titude, at this time, was 59 deg. 49 min. and our longitude 175 deg. 43 min. Though we saw some shags in the morning, which are imagined never to fly far from the land, yet there was no appearance of it during the whole day. However, the next morning, about six o'clock, we had sight of it to- wards the N. W. The coast appeared in hills of a moderate elevation ; but inland, others were observed considerably higher. The snow lying in patches, and no wood being perceived, the land had a very barren aspect. At nine o'clock, we were ten or eleven miles from the shore, the southern extreme bearing W. by S. about six leagues, distant, beyond which the coast seemed to incline to the W. This point being in the longitude, of 174 deg. 48 min. avid in the latitude of 61 deg. 48 min. is situated ac- cording to the Russian charts, near the mouth of the river Opuka. The northern extremity, at the same time, bore N. by W. between which, and a hill bearing N. W. by W. quarter W. the coast appeared to bend towards the W. and form a deep bay. At the distance of about eight miles from the land we observed a strong rippling ; and being under apprehensions of meeting with foul ground, we made sail to the N. E. along the coast. On heaving the lead, we fonnt*^ the depth of water to be twenty- four fathoms, over a bottom of gravel. We therefore concluded, that the appearance above-mentioned, was occasioned by a tide, then running to the southward. At noon, the extremes of the land bearing W. S. W. and N. N. E. we were abreast of the low land, which, we now observed, joined the two points, where we had before expected to discover a deep bay. The coast bends a little towards the W. and has a small inlet, which is, perhaps, the mouth of some in- considerable river. Our longitude was now 175 deg. 43 min. and our latitude 61 deg. 56 min. During the afternoon, we con- tinued our course along the coast, which exhibited an appearance of sterility, and the hills rose to a considerable elevation 11 ^^ 1 770 VOl^itGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. inland, but \he clouds on their tops pre- renied Us. from determining their height. About eight o'clock in the evenine:, some of uur people thought they saw land to the E. by N^. upon which we stood to the south- ward of 'E. but it proved to be nothing more tiian a fog bank. At midnight, the extreme point bearing N. E. quarter E. we conjectured that it was St. Thadeus's Noss ; to the S. of which the land inclines towards the \V. forming a deep bight, wherein the river Katirka, according to the charts pub- lished by the Russians, is situate. On Tuesday' the !29th, the weather was unset- tled,, with the wind at the N. E. point. On the 30th, at noon, we observed in loii- gitude 180 deg. and latitude 61 deg. 4i^ min. At this lime, St. Thadeus's Noss bore N. N. W. at the distance of twenty-three leagues ; and beyond it we perceived, the coast extending almost directly N. The easternmost point «)f the Noss is in the lati. tude of 62 <\e?. 50 niin. and in the longi- tude of 179 deg. The land about it, froiu its being discerned at so great a distance, may justly be supposed to be of a consider- able height. During this and the preccil- ing day, we saw numbers of sea-horses, whales, and seals ; also alba.trosses, gulls> sea-parrots, guillemots, and other birds. CHAP. XVIII. Thd Resolution and Discovery continue their course to the north ; Tschuhotskoi Noss descried ; Jsles of St. Lawfence ; Sight of the two coasts oj Asia and America at the same instant ; Ob- structions from the ice ; Fruitless attempts to discover a passage on the American side. The plan qfCapt. Clerke, tvith respect to our future designs; Attempt, in vain, to pass the ice to ike norlh-west ; Critical situation of the Discover]/ ; The damages sustained, after having again been obstructed by the ice; Capt. Clcrhe resolves, to the great joy of the ship's crew, to return to the southward; Pass Serdze Kamen ; Proceed through jBcering's Straits, ^c. ON Thursday, the 1st of July, 1779, at noon, Mr. Biigh, master of the Reso- lution, found by experiment, t,hat the ship made a course to the N. E. at the rate of about half a mile in an hour: this he attri- buted to the effect of a southerly swell, rather than to that of any current. The wind to. wards the evening, freshening from the S. E. we steered to the N. E. by E. for the point that Beering calls Tschukotskoi Noss, which we had observed on the 4th, of September the preceding year, at. the same time that we perceived towards the S. E. the Isle of St. Lawrence. Thfs cape, and St. Thadeus's Noss, from the north-eastern and south- western extremes of the extensivrt Gulph of Anadir, into the bottom of which the river of that name discharges itself, separating,- as 'A passes, the Coufitry of the Tschutski from thai ol tht Koriacs. On the 3rd. at noon, 8 we observed in latitude 63 deg. 33 min. lon- gitude 186 deg. 4-3 min. Between twelve and one, we drscried the i'schukotskoi Noss. bearing N. half VV\ at the distance ;il" thirteen or fourteen leagues. At five in the afternoon, we saw the Island of St. Law- rence, in the direction of E. three-quarters N. and also another Island, which we ima- gined was between St. Lawrence and An- derson's Island, about eighteen Guiles E. 8. E. of the former. As we had no cerJain knowledge of this Island, Capt. Clerke, was inclined to have a nearer view of it juul im- mediately hauled the wind towards il: hut it unfortunately happened, that we Were un- able to weather the Isle of St. Lawrence, and were therefore obliged to bear op again, and pass them all to the leeward. The lati- tude of the Island of St. Lawrence ^ocord- ing \q the most accurate observatic . . is fIS n AND liOtND THE WORLD. ^:i leg. 4K OSS bore ty-three ved flie *J. TUe .lie lati. le lofii^i- it, from iislnuce, Hinsider- prect'tl- a-horses, es, gulls> )irds. stance ;ir Vt five in f St. Law. e-qnarteis we nwd- and An- uiles E. S. no certain 'lerke, wos it and im- rdsil: l)ut ^e Were nn-- Lawrenc<», r t»p again* f Thelati- ice Tccord- tio . . is f3 ikg. 47 miu. and itii loni^itnde is 1^ deg. snow, and the beacli en con.- passed with ire.' 15 inin. This Island, if its boundaries were W« were now convinced uf our iiaving been at present witkin our view, is about three under the influence of a strong current set- hagues in circumference. The northern ting to the northward, which had occasion- part of it may be discerned at the distance ed an error of twenty miles in our com puta- of ten or a dozen leagues. As it has some tion of the latitude at noon. At the time of low land tathe S.'E. the extent of which we our passing this Strait the last year, we had could not perceive, some of us supposed, experienced a similar effect. Having now that it might perhaps be joined to the land ascertained our position, we steered N. by to the eastward of it : we were, however, E. At ten o'clock in the evening, the wea- jn-evented by the haziness of the weather, ther clearing up, we saw, at the same in- from ascertaining this circumstance. These stant, the remarkable peaked hill near Cape Islands, as well as the land adjoining to the Prince of Wales, on the North American 'Ji'schukotskoi Noss, were covered with snow, coast, and the East Cape of Asia, with the and presented a most dismal aspect. About two Islands of St. Diomede between them, midnight, the Isle of St. Lawrence was five In the course of this day, we saw several or i^ix miles distant, bearing S. S. E and our large'white gulls, and great numbers of very soundings were eighteen fatnoms. We were small birds of the hawk kind. The beak accompanied with sea-fowl of various sorts, of the latter was compressed, and large in and observed some guillemots and small proportion to the body of the bird ; the co- crested hawks. The weather continuing to lour was dark brown, or rather black, the thicken, we lost sight of land till Monday breast whitish, and towards the abdomen a the 5th, when we had a view of it both to reddish brown hue was visible. On the6th> the N. E. and N. W. Our longitude at this a-' i'velve o'clock, our latitude was 67 deg. time, was 189 deg. 14 min. ana our latitude and our longitude 191 deg. 6 min. Having ^deg. 24 min. As the Islands of St. Di- already passed many large masses of ice» omede, which are situated in Beering's and observed that it adhered, in several Strait, between the two continents of Asia places, to the shore of the Asiatic continent, and America, were determined by us the we were not greatly surprised when we fell preceding year to be in the latitude of 65 in. about three o'clock, with an extensive deg. 48 min. we were at a loss how to re- body of it, stretching towards the W. This concile the land towards the N. £. with the appearance considerably discouraged our position of those Islands. We therefore hopes of proceeding much further to the N. stood for the land till three o'clock in the this year, than we had done the preceding, afternoon, when we were within the distance There being little wind in the afternoon, the of four miles from it, and discovering it to boats were hoisted out in |)uisuit of the sea- be two Islands, were pretty well convinced horses, great numbers of which were seen of their being the same ; but the haziness on the detached pieces of ice ; but they re- ef the weather still continuing, we, in order turned without success: these animah being to be certain with, respect to our situation, extremejy shy, and, before our people could stood over to the Asiatic coast, till about come within gun-shot of them, always re- seven o'clock in the evening ; at which time treated into the water. At seven o'clock we had approached within two or three P. M. having hoisted in the boats, we stood leagues of the eastern Cape of that continent, on to the north-eastward; with a fresh south- The Cape is an elevated round head of land, erly breeze, intending to explore the Ame- and extends about five miles from N. to S. rican continent, between the latitudes of 68 It torms a peninsula, which is connected deg. and 69 deg. which, on account of the with the continent by a narrow isthmus of foggy weather, we had not an opportunity lowland. It hasp, bold shore; and three of examining the last year. In this attempt lofty, detached, spiral rocks, are seen oft' its we were partly disappointed again : for, on N. |»ari. It was at present covered with the 7th, about six o'clock in the morning, I.J 3iM I I il> 7T VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, we were stopped by. a large body of ice, stretching fr6m N. W. to S. E. but, not lone afterwards, the horizon becoming clear, we nad a view of tlie American coast, at the distance of about ten leagues, extending from N. E. by E. to E. and lying between 68 deg. and 69 deg. 28 min. of northern la- titude. The ice not being high, we were enabled by the clearness of the weather to see over a great extent of it. The whole exhibited a compact solid surface, not in the least thawed ; and seemed also to adhere to the land. Soon after, the weather bec«m- ing hazy, we lost sight of the land ; and it being impossible to approach nearer to it, we steered to the N. N. W. keeping the ice close on board ; and having, by noon, got round its western extremity, we found that it trended nearly N. Our longitude, at this time, was 192 deg. 34 min. and our latitude 68 d'eg. 22 min. We proceeded along the edge of the ice, to the N. N. E. during the remainder of the day, passing through many loose pieces which had been separated from the main body, anfi against which our ves- sels were driven with great violence, not- withstanding our utmost caution. About eight in the evening, we passed some drift- wood : at midnight the wind veered to the N, W. and there were continued showers of snow and sleet. The tliermometer hud now fallen from 38 deg. to 31 dei^. On Thurs- day, the 8th, at five o'clock, the wind shift- ing more to the northward, we could con- tinue no longer on the same tack, l)y reason of the ice, but were under the necessity of .standing towards the W. Our depth of water, at this time, was nineteen fathoms ; from which, upon comparing it with our re- marks on the soundings in the preceding year, we inferred, that our present distance from the coast of America did not exceed six or seven leagues; but our view was cir- onmsoribed within a much narrower compass by a heavy fall of snow. Our latitude, at no(Mi, was 69 deg. 21 min. and our lon<>itude 192 (lej?. 42 min. At two o'clock P M. the weather became clearer, and we found our- selves close to an expanse of ice, which, from the mast-head, was discovered to con- .sist of very large compact bodies ; united 4 towards the exterior edge, but, in the inte- rior parts, some pieces were observed floatiii;^ in vacant spaces of the water: it extended from W. S. W. to N. E. by N. We bore away towards the 8. along the edge of it, en- deavouring to get into clearer water ; for the strong northerly winds had drifted down such numbers of loose pieces, that we had been encompassed with them for some time, and were unable to prevent the ships from striking against several of them. On the9tli, a fresh gale blew from the N. N. W. accom- panied with violent showers of snow and sleet. We steered W. S. W. and kept as near the main body of ice as we could ; but had the misfortune to damage the cut-water against the drift pieces, and rub off some ui the sheathing from the bows. The shocks, indeed, which our ships received, were fre- quently very severe, and were attended with considerable hazard. Our latitnile, at noon, was 69 deg. 12 min. and our longitude 188 deg. 5 min. We had row sailed almost forty leagues to the W. along the edge of the ice, without perceiving any opening, or a clear sea he- yond it towards the N. no prospect therefore remained of making further progress to the northward at present. For this reason Capt, Gierke determined to bear away to S. by JE. the only quarter whiv.h was clear, and to wait till the season wtis somewhat more ad- vanced before he made any further attempts to penetrate through the ice. He proposed to employ the intermediate time in survey- ing the bay of St. Lawrence, and the coast situate to the S. of it ; as it w-iuld be a great satisfaction to have a harbour so near, in case of future damage from the quantity of ice in these parts. We were also desirous of pay- ing another visit to the J'schutski ; and more particularly since the accounts we had heard jf them from Major Hehni, In con- sequence of this determination, we made sail to the southward, till the KUh, at noon, when we passed considerable quantities of drift ice, and a perfect calm ensued. The latitude, at this time, was 68 dear. 1 nnn. and the longitude 188 dei;. tiO min. This morning we saw several whales ; and in ihd. afternoon, there being great numbers AND ROUND THE V/ORLD. rra le inte- (iuatiiit( Ktendeii Ve bore jf it, en- ; for the d down we bad ine time, lips from » the9tli, \ accDui- iiow and kept as 11 Id ; but 3nt-\vatei' f some (il e shocks, were fie- lded with ■, at noon, ■itnde 188 in survey- the coast be a great H-ar, in case y of ice in ns of pay- ski ; and jts we had In con- made sail at i»oon, lantities of ;ued. The ear. 1 niin. nio. This and in th«' unibers sea-horses on the (tieces of ice that surround- ed us, we hoisted out the boats, and dispatoh- ed them in pursuit of those animals. Our people had Mnore success on this occasion, than they had on the 6th : for they returned with three lar^^e ones, and a young one, he- sides having killed or wounded some others. They were witnesses of several striking in- stances of parental affection in these animals. All of tlienr, on the approach of the boats towards the ice, took (heir young ones under their fins, and attempted to escape with them into the sea. Some, whose cubs were killed or wounded, and lelt fhtating upon the sur- face of the water, rose again, and carried them down, sometimes just as our men were on the point of taking them into tiie boat ; and could be traced bearing them to a con- siderable distance through the water, which was stained with their blood. They were afterwards observed bringing them, at inter- vals, above the surface, as if for air, and again plunging under it, with a horrid bel- lowing. The female, in particular, whose young one had been killed, and taken into the boat, beoame so furious, that she even struck her two tusks. through the bottom of the cutter. About eight o'clock in the even- ing, an easterly breeze sprung up, with which we continued to steer to the south- ward ; and, at midniijht, fell in with many extensive bodies of ice. We attempted to push throngh theui under an easy sail, that the ships might sustain no damage; and when we bad proceeded a little further to- wards the S. nothing was visible bnt a very large and compact mass of ice, extending to the N. E. S. W. and S. E. as far as the eye could reach. This formidable obstacle prevented our visiting the Tschutski ; for no space remained open, except back again to the northward. We therefore tacked, at three o'clock in th^ morning of the 11th, and stood to that quart£r. The lat. at noon, was ()7 (leg. 40 min. and the long. 188 deg. 47 niin. On Monday, the ISth, we had liiilit winds and hazy weatlier. On examin- i\ig the current, we found it set towards the IV! W. at tlie rate of half a mile an hour. We continued our northerly course, with a breeze from the S, and fair weather, till 5 ten o'clock in the morning of the 13th, when we again tound ourselves close in with a solid mass of ice, to which we could per<;eive no limits from the mast-head. This was »n effectual discouragement to all our hopes of penetrating further ; which had been gYeatly raised, by our having now ad- vanced almost ten leagues, throngli a space, which, on the 9th, had been found to be occupied by impenetrable ice. Our situa- tion, at this time, was nearly in tlie middle of the channel, betwixt the two continents ; ouv lat. was 69 Ae^. 37 min. and the main body of the ice extended from W . S. W. to E. N. E. In that part of the sea where we now were, there was no probability of getting further to the north. Capt. Clerke therefore determined to make a tinal attempt on the coast of America, for Baffin's Bay, since we had found it practicable to advance the furthest on this side, in the preceding year. We accordingly, during the remainder of the day worked to the windward, with a fresh breeze from the E. We observed se- veral fulmars, and artic gulls, and passed trees, both of which seemed to have the water. The larger ten or eleven feet, and about three, without either the bark or branches. We continued our course to the eastward on the 14th, with thick foggy weather. The next day, the wind blowing fresh from the west, and hav- ing, in some measu!*e, dispersed the fog, we immediately steered to the north, in order i) have a nearer view of the ice ; and we were soon close in with it. It extended from N. N. W. to N. E. and was solid and coin pact : the exterior parts were ragged, and of various heights ; the inner surface was even ; and, as we supposed, from eight to ten feet above the level of the sea. The weather becoming moderate during the rest of the day, we shaped our course according to the trending of the ice, which jn several places, formed deep bays. On Friday, the 16th, the wind freshened, in the morning, and was accompanied with frequent and thick showers of snow. At eight o'clock in the forenoon^ W€ had a strong gale from two lain one was, in length, in circumference a long time in •I- ; 774' VOYAGK TOWx\Rl)S TIIK NORTH-POL^ the W. S. W. wliicli brought us under dou- ble reefed tup-sails; when, the weather in some deforce clearing up, we found ourselves, as it were embayed ; the ice having' suddenly taken A (urn to the south eastward, and en- compassing: us in one compact body, on all sides but the south. In consequence of this, we hauled our wind to the southward, being, at that time, in twenty-six fathoms water, and in the lut. of 70 deg. 8 min. N. and, as we imagined, at the distance of about twenty- five leagues from the American coast. At ,four in the afternoon, the gale increasing, we got the top-gallant-yards down upon the decK, furled the mizen top-sail, and close- reefed the fore and Miain-top-sails. About ei^ht o'clock, finding that our soundinp^s had decreased to twenty-two fathoms, which we considered as an indication of our near ap- proach to the coast of America, we tacked and steered to the northward. In the night we had boisterous weather, attended with snow : but the next morning it was clear and moderate ; and, at eight o'clock, we got the top-gallant-yards across, and bore away, wilh the wind still at W. S. W. Our lat. at nrmn, was 69 deg. 55 min. aod our long. 1P4 deg. 30 min. The vwind slackened in the evening, and, about midnight, we had a calm. A Tight breeze arising from the E. N. E. at five in the morning of the x8lh, we continued our progress towards the N. with a view of regauiing the ice as soon as possible VV^e saw nu-mbcrs of sea-parrots, and small ice-birds, and also many whales; and paNsed several logs of drift wood. The lat. at twelve o'clock, was 70 deg. 26 rain, and the lon^. 194 deg. 54 min. Our sound- ings, at the same time, were twenty-three fathi>n]S ; and the ire extended from N. to E. N. E. being about one league distant. At one o'clock tn the afternoon, observing that we were close in with a firm imited mass of ioe, stretching from E. to W, N. W. we tacUed, and, the wind vteiing to the west- ward, stood to the E. along the edge of it, till eleven in the evenintr. A very thick fog then comiu'.; on, and the depth of water de- creasing to nineteen fathoms, we hauled our wind to the southward. About nine o'clock in the evening, a white bear swam dose by 6 the Discovery ; it afterwards went towards the ice, on which were likewise two others. The weather clearing up, at one in the morn- ing of Monday, the 19th, we bore away to the N. E, till two o'clock, when we were again so completely embayed by the ice, that no opening remained, except to the south- ward ; to which quarter we therefore direct- ed our course, and returned through a very smooth water, with favourable weather, by the same way we had come in. We were unable to penetrate further towards the N. than at this time, when our lat. was 70 ilefs, 33 min which was about five leagues short of the point to which we had advanced the preceding summer. We stood to the S. S. W. with light winds from the N. W. near the edge of the main body of ice, which was situated on our left-hand, extending be- tween us and the American coast. At noon our lat. was 70 deg. 11 min. and our lon^. 196 deg, 15 min. and our soundings were sixteen fatlioms. AVe supposed, from this circumstance, that the ley Cape was at the distance of only seven or eiglit leagues from us : but though the weather was in general pretty clear, there was, at the same time, a haziness in the horizon ; so that we could not expect to have an opportunity of seeing the Cape. During ihe afternoon, two white bears appearing in the water, some of our people immediately pursued them in the jolly-boat, and were so fortunate as to kill them both. The larger one, which was, in all probability, the datii of the younger, be- ing shot first, the other would not leave it, though it might have escaped with ease on the ice, while the men were re-loading their muskets; but continued swimming about, till after having been several times fired upon, it was shot dead. The length of the larger one, from the snout to the end of the tail, was seven feet two inches ; in its cir- cumference, near the fore legs, was four feet ten inches ; the height of the shoulder was four feet three inches ; and the breadth ot the fore-paw was ten inches. The weij^lit of its four quarters was four hundred ami thirty six pounds. The four quarters of the smallest weighed two hundred and fifty-six pounds. These animals furnished us with AND HOUND THE WORLD. 775 >ward9 others. morn- bvay to e were :e, that south- ! dircct- a very [her, by ^e were the N. 70 dep:. es short ice in the water, we tried the current, and tound at noon, our lat. was 69 deg. 80 min. and our it set to the E N. E. at the rate of a mile an long. 187 deg. 30 min. In the afternoon^ hour: we therefore resolved to steer before we again came up with the ice, which ex- the wind, during the night, in order to stem tending to the N. W. and S. W. obliged us it, and oppoNu the large pieces of loose ice, to proceed to the southward, in order to which were .stlting us on towards the coast, weather it. It may not here be improper Our soundings, at midnight, were twenty to remark, that, since the 8th, of July, we fathoms. The next morning, at eight had twice traversed this sea ; in lines almost o'clock, the wind freshening, and the fog j)arrellel with the run we had just now dispersing, we again liad sight of the coast made ; that we were unable in the first of of America to the south-eastward, at the dis- those traverses, to penetrate so tar N. by tance of nine or ten leasues, and hauled in eight or ten leagues, as in the second : and for it; but the ice in a sljott time effectually that in the last we had again met with a stopped our finrlier |>ro:;res^ on that side, connected mass of ice, generally about five and we were obliged to bear away towards leagues to the southward of its position in the W. alonu' (he edge of it. Our lat. at the preceding run. This makes it evident, twelve, was 69 deg. 34 min. onr long, was that the large compact fields of -ice, observed 193 deg. and our soundings were twenty- by us, were moveable, or diminishing ; but, four fathoms. A connected solid field of at the same time, it does not authorise any ice, thus balBing all our eflfbrts to make a expectation of advancing much farther, even nearer approach to the land, and (as we had in the most favourable seasons. About 7 I'll If. 770 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE. seven o'clcek in the evening, the weather being hazy, and no ice visible, we made sail to the westward ; bnt, between eig^ht and nine, ihe iiaze dispersing;, we f<*und ourselves in the midst uf loose ice, and very near the main bod}^ *, we therefore stood upon a wind, which was still easterly, and continued to beat to windward durint; the nii^ht, hoping to weather the loose pieces, which the wind drove down «ipon us in such quantities, that we %vere in great danprer of beii ;ence of three years with a delight and sutisfuction, as fully enjoyed, as if we had 5 G been already in sight of the land^s end. On Wednesday, the 2Hih, we walked to vind- wurd, with a fresh breeze tVoiii the .S. E. being still in sight of the coast of Asmi. At four in the morning, Cape Serdze Kamen bore S. S. W . distant seven leagues. On the 2Dth, the wuxi continuing untavourable, we made hvX slow progress to the southwaMl. We had no land in view till seven in the evening of the 3(Mh, when the fog dispersing, we saw Cape Prince of Wales bearing S. by E. distant six le.igues; and the Island of 8t. Diomede S. W. by W. We now stood to the W. and at eiuht made the East Cape, which al; midnight, was four leagues distant, bearing W. by N. On Saturday, the 31st, at four o'clock A. M. the East Cape l)ore N. N. E and the N. E. part of the Bay of St. Lawrence, W. by S, distant twelve miles. At noon, we observed in latitude 65 deg. 0. min. longiJude 189 deg. We had now passed Beering's Straits, and taken a tinal leave of the N. E. coast of A-^ia ; and here we shall state our reasons for adopting two general conclusions relative to its extent, in opposition to the sentiment of Mr. Muller. The first is, that the promon- tory, called East Cape, is actually the most easterly point of that quarter of the glolte ; or in other words, that no part of that ronti- nent extends in longitude beyond 190 dear. 22 min. E. The second is, that the latitude of the north-easternmost extreme is some- what to the southward of70 deg. N. \\\\\\ regard to the former, ifv:-acli land really ex- ists, it must certainly be tc the N. of the C9lh, deg. of latitude, where the discoveries made in op.r present voyage terminate. 1 i CHAP. XIX. JBistory oflhe voyage continued ; Pass the Islands of St. Laurence and Mednoi ; Our Cemmodorc, Cctpt. Clerke, co/t/ined to his sick bed, without hopes of recovery ; His death, and public services ; The Resolution and Discovery return to St Peter and St. Paul ; Promotions among the oncers, in consequence of the Commodore's death; Funeral of Capt. Clerke, and the solemnities attevdtug it ; A supply ojjlour, and a reinforcement of Russian soldiers ; An account of a remarkable ixtic; }icar hunting and fishing parties ; Particular description of the former diversion; 7'he king's coronation celebrated ; A visit from the Commander ; Discipline of the military among the Ruy. sians ; Manner of hunting tlu oears ; A supply of cattle received ; Entertainments in honour oj the Empress's birth-day ; Present from the Commander ; The Resolution and Discovery irvrk out of Awatska liity ; Plan of future operations; Tlie Resolution and Discovery, on quit I mg the Hay of Aicatsku, sail along the coast ; A violent storm ; Proceed for the Island of Japan; Description of a Japanese vessel ; Prosecution of the voyage to China, in tvhich three Islands are discovered ; I'ruitless search Jor the liashee Islands ; The Grand Ladrone Island; Journals, and othci papers relating to the history of the voyage, delivered tip ; IVie ships approach Macao; Copt, King dispatched to visit the Portuguese Governor ; They anchor in the Typa ; Great demand Jor the sea-otter skins, and its ej/'ecis on our teamen. ON Sunday, the 1st, of August, 1779, we observed in lat. 64 dtg-. 23 min. long'. 189 deg. 1 deg. 37 min. Friday, the 13th, we dis- patched a boat to the Discovery, iVr the pur- pose of comparing time, and she c.nrricd the dis^agreeable intelligence, that Capt. Clerke AND KOUND THE WOLRD. 77& modurc, wrrices ; oncers, tteiiding ')le txiic ; t€ king's the liuy. 0710111' oj ^ry uork I qnilling f JupcoL ; $lanils are rnais, aiid ao; C'tqit. emundjor we like- nce of 11 land that from llie )iily sight ice to l)y f St. Law- y E. lialf bleAvimls, nt of the. ernoon, a tve steered igbt cf St. at noon, mill. lony. IS a dead both ships caught a .seventeen listributed this place of Good 16 breeze tood to S. e eastward tention to esday, the in lat. f»() h, we diss- t r the iinr- •firried t\ie pt. Clerlie had been enyen orer oy the surgeon. The which he retained even to the last hour, and weather falling? calm, we hove to, in order a cheerful resignation to the decree of hea- to get sorne tish for the sick: and distaibut- ven, furnished tijem with some consolation, ed accordini?ly. It was impossible not to fee' an uncommon On Tuesday, the 17th, at five o'clock, degree of compassion for a gentleman, who A. M. the man at the niast-head called out had experienced a series of those diihculties land to the N. W. This we imagined to and hardships, which must be the inevit- be the Island of Mednoi, which, in the Rus- able lot ol every seaman, and under which sian charts, is placed to the S. E. of i5eer- he at last sunk. He was bred to the navy ing's Island. It is elevated land, and was from his youth, and had been in many en- at this time apparently free from snow. By gagements during the war which commenc- our reckoning, it lies in lat. 54 deg. 28 min. ed in 1756. In the action between the long. 167 de^. 52 min. Capt. Clerke, now Bellona and Couras^tnx, he was stationed perceiving his end drawing near, signified in the mizen-top, and was carried over- his desire, that the officers would receive board with the mast; but was taken up their orders from Mr. King ; and directed, without having received the least injury, for the last time, that we should repair, with He was midshipman on board the Dolphin, all convenient speed, to the Bay of Aw at- commanded by Commodore Byron, when sica. The wind continuing westerly, we she first sailed round the world ; and was held on a southerly,course, till Thursday, afterviards on the American station. In the tli-e 19th, when, after, a i'ew hours conti- year 17(>8, he engaged in a second voyage nuance of rain, early in the morning, it round the world, in the situation of master's blev/ from the E. and became a strong gale, mate of the Endeavour ; and, during that We made the most of it, by standing to- expedition, succeeded to a lieutenancy. In wards the W. with all the sail we could the Resolution he made a third voyage carry. On the 20th, the wind varying to round the world, in the capacity of second the S. W. we steered a W. N. W. course, lieutenant; and, in a short time after his At noon, we observed in lat. 53 deg. 7 min. return, he was appointed master and com- long. 162 deg. 49 min. On Saturday, the mander. In the present expedition, he 21st, between five and six o'clock, A. M. was appointed Captain of the Discovery, we descried a very lofty peaked mountain, and to accompany Capt. Cook. By the on the coast of Kamtschatka, known by the calamitous death of the latter, he sticreed- name of Chepoonskoi mountain, hearing ed of course, as we have already related, to N. \y . by N. and distant near thirty leagues, the chief command. It would savour of in- At noon, the coast was observed to extend justice and ingratitude, not to mention, that, from N. by E. to W . with a very great ha- during the short time he was Commodore, vjness upon it, and distant about twelve we always observed him to be remarkably leagues. zealous for the success of the expedition. On Sunday the 22nA, at nine Vclock, When the princinal command devolved \. M. a boat was sent off to the Discovery, u[)on him, his health began rapidly to de- to announce to Capt. Gore, the death of our cline ; and he was unequal, in every respect,! Commodore, Capt. .Charles Clerke, who to encounter the severity of a high northern^ paid the debt ot nature when in the 38th, climate. The vigour of his mind, however,] year of his age. His death was occasioned was not in the least impaired by the decay, by a consumption, which had manifestly of his body : and though he was perfectly commenced before his departure from Eng- sensible, that his delaying to return to a land, and of which he had lingered during warmer region, was depriving himself of the whole continuance of the voyage. His the only chance of recovery ; yet, so atten- very gradual decay had for a long time tive was he to his duty, that he wa^ deter- rendered him a melancholy object to his mined not to suffer his own .situation lo bias* friends; but the firmness and equanimity his judgment, to the |)rejudice of the service; with wliich he bore the slow approaches of he therefore persevered in the search of a •leatli the constant flow of good spiriti passage, till every officer in both ships. 780 VOYAGE TOWARDS:.THE NORTH POLE, declared tliey were of opinion it was im- priictical)le, and that any farther attempts wuuld be equally hazardous and ineffectual. The messenger who was sent to the Disco- very with the melancholy news of our Com- modore's death, brought a letter ftom Capt. Gore, containing an order for Mr. King to ext?rt his utmost endeavours to keep in com- pany with the Discovery, and, if a separa- tion should happen, to repair as soon as possible, tc St. Peter and St. Paul. At noon, we were by observation in lat. 53 deg. 8 min. long 160 deg. 40 min. E. Chee- poonskoi Noss bearing W. On the 23rd, w« steered for the entrance of Awatska Bay, which we saw in the evening, at the distance of five leauues. At eight o'clock, the light- iiouse, which now furnished a good light, bore W. N. by W. three miles distant. It was now a perfect calm, but, the tide being favourable, our boats were sent a-head, which towed us beyond the narrow parts of the mouth of the harbour. On the 24th, at one o'clock A. M. we dropped anchor, the ebb tide setting against ns. At nine, we weighed, and before three P. IM. we anchor- ed in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul ; having up our ensign half statJ*, ns the body of our late Captain was in the vessel ; and the Discovery followed us in a very short time. Both ships were moored in four fathoms water, muddy bottom. From the time we had set sail out of this bay, till the f)resent time of our return we had been in no larbour to retit, and had been driven from Island to Island, and from one continent to the other, till our ships had in a manner lost their sheathing, and were otherwise in a miserable condition ; we therefore thought ourselves exceeding happy in arriving at port. Soon after we had anchored, we were visited by our old friend theserjeant, still the commanding otiicer, who brought with him a present of ^berries, intended for our late Counnodore. He was much affected at hearing of his death, and seeing the coffin that contained his remains. As the deceased had particularly requested to be buried on shore, and gave the preference to the church at Paratounca, we consulted the serjeant about the necessary steps to be taken on this occasion, who referred us to the priest, as kein*^ the person best qualified to give ns iii- 4 formation on this subject. At the same tima he signified his intention of sending an ex« press to the Commander cff Bolcheretsk, Ivith an account of our arrival ; when Com- modore Gore begged to avail himself of that opportunity of conveying a letter to him, wherein he requested that sixteen head of black cattle might be sent with all possible dispatch. At this time, we received intelli- gence of Soposnicotf's arrival from Oona- lashka, who took charge of the packet sent by Capt. Cook to the Admiralty, and which v/3 had the pleasure to find, had been fur- ivarded. Wednesday, the 25th, in the morning, Capt. Gore, in consequence of the death of our late Commodore, made out the new commissions. He himself succeeded to the chief command in the Resolution ; and our lieutenant, Mr. King, was appointed Captain of the Discovery. Mr. Lanyan, master's mate of the Resolution, and who had been in that capacity, in a former voyage, on board the Adventure, was appointed to the vacant lieutenancy. In consequence of these arrangements, the following promotions took place. Lieutenants Burney and Rickman (from the Discovery) were appointed first and second lieutenants of the Resolution: and lieutenant Williamson first lieutenarit of the Discovery. Capt. King, by the per- mission of the Commodore, took in four mid- shi(>men, who had rt'ndered themselves useful to him in astronomical calculations; and whose assistance was become the more necessary, as we had not an epheineris for the present year. And that astronomical obser- vations might not be neglected to be made in either ship, Mr. Bayly took Capt. King's place in the Resolution, for these purposes. This day we were attended by the Pope Romanoff Vereshagen, the worthy priest of Paratounca. His expressions of sorrow for the death of Capt. Clerke did honour to his feelings ; but the good old gentleman, tliough much concerned, started several difficulties, and appeared rather unwilling to comply with the request of the deceased. He ur<>ed, among the other objections, that the Church was soon to be pulled down ; that every winter it was three feet deep in water; and that in a few years no veslige of it would remain, as the ntwChnreh wv^ I ^ND ROUND THE WORLD. etima in ex* iietsk, Com- of that liim, lead of •ossible intelli- Oona- Lct sent which en t'or- lorninfj, leath of he new 1 to the and our Captain master's ad been ^age, on ed to the ! of these ions took [lick man ted first solution: eutenarit the per- biir mid- 'Mnselves Illations; the more ris for the ;al obser- e made in t. King's purposes, he Pope priest of )rrow for ion our to jntlenian, d several unwilling deceased, ions, that ed down ; t deep in no veslige lunch NVit» rsi to be erected near the Ostrog of Awatska, immense quantities, and we found them of ■»ipon a drier and more convenient spot, most excellent quality. After the wants of lie therefore advised, that the remains of both ships were suniciently supplied, we our late Commodore should be deposited daily salted down almost a hogshead. We at the foot of a tree, the scite of which, was had four invalids, who were employed in to br ii.oUided in the body^ of the new gathering greens, and cooking for those who Choich where the bones of tlie Captain were ashore. We also landed our powder, mil;]*! pvububly rest for ages undisturbed: in order to have it dried ; and the blubber houovei, he submitted the choice of either of the seahorses, with which both ships had place entirely toCapt. Gore. Ii.ese rea- completely furnished themselves, in onr pas- sons, whether real or ficitious, the officers sage to the north, was now boiled down for who had ch-arge of the funeral could not oil, and was become a very necessary article* disprove, and therefore some of onr people having long since expended all our candles, had orders to dig the grave where the priest The cooper was also employed in his depart- should direct. ment. Both ship's companies were thus en- Ihe Discovery having suffered great in- gaged till Satnnlay, the 28th, in the after- jury from the ice, especially on the 23rd, of noon, which was allowed to every man July, and continued exceeding leaky ever (except the carpenters) lo wash their linen» since, it was apprehended that some of her and get their clothes in tolerable order, that timbers might have started: our carpenters on Sunday they might make a decent ap- were therefore sent to assist those of the pearance. Discovery in repairing her. To accommo- On Sunday, the 29th, we performed the date those who were to be employed on shore, last affecting offices at the interment ot a tent was erected, and a party was sent Capt. Clerke, onr late much respected Com- into the country, north of the harbour, to modore ; and to make the funeral the fell timber. The observatories were placed more solemn, every officer was desired to ot the west ertd of the village, near which appear in his uniform ; the marines were or- svas erected a tent, as an abode for the Com- dered to be drawn up under arms ; and the modore and Capt. King. When the carpen- common men to be dressed as nearly alike as ters began to rip the damaged sheathing possible, in order to attend the corpse from from the larboad bow, it was discovered, the water-side to the grave. All the Rus- that three feet of the third strake were staved, siaMs in the garrison assembled on the occa- and the timbers started : and as they pro- sion, assisting respectfnlly in tho solemnity, ceeded, the decayed state of the ship's hull and the worthy pastor of Paratonnca joined became more and more apparent. The sea- in the procession, walking with the gentle- son being now far advanced, Cajit. King man wlio read the service. The ships, at was nnwdling that any hindrance or delay the same time tired minute guns, and the should happen through him, to Capt. Gore's drums, mnffled as usual, beat the dead further views «»f discovery, and theretbre inarch. When the corpse arrived at the ordered the car|)enters to rip oft'no more of giave, it was deposited under a triple dis- the slieathing, than should be absolutely charge of three vollies, fired by the marines, necessary for repairing the damages occa- which concluded the burial service. When sioned by the ice. He was apprehensive of the grave was covered, it was thought proper their meeting with more decayed planks, to fence it in by piles driven deep in the which he thought had better remain in that uround, and afterwards to fill up the space stiite. than have their plates supplied with inclosed with stones and earth, to preserve green birch, even supposing it could be the body from beintr devoured in the winter procured. AH hands were now fully em- by bears, or other wild beasts, who are re- ployed in their separate ileparlments, that markable for their sagatity in seeming out we might be perfectly ready for sea, by the the bodies of dead passengers, when any time the CiKpen*ers had completed their happen to perish, and are buried near the husiness. Vnnr men were set apart to haiil roads. "in Friday^ the lOtb, in the mnrnine, the 5 I IE • tf !'vhen we di-^covered^ that he bad so totally forffottrn the French and German languages, as not to be able to speak a single sentence, nor to comprehend readily any thing hat was said to him in either of those languages. Thus were we deprived unfor- tunate!>, of what we expected would have furnished a favourable opportunity of ac- quiring farther information resueciir>n: this country. We now set out on our hunting party, directing our course to the northward, to- ward a pool of water, that lies near the mouth of the river Paratounca, and which was a known haunt of the bears. We had scarco landed, when imfortunately the wind changed to the eastward, and destroyed all hopes of coming up with our game ; for the Kamtschadales assured us, that it was in vain to expect to meet with bears, when to the windward of them ; owing to their being possessed of an uncommon acuteness, in scenting their pursuers, which enabled them under such circumstances, to avoid the dan- ger, though at a very great distance from them. We returned therefore to the boat^ and passed the night on the beach, having brought a tent with us for that purpose. The next morning, being the 18th, we crossed the bay, and pursued our course on foot along a plain abounding with berries, on which the bears feed : but though seve- ral of these animals were seen at a distance, we could never contrive, the weather being showery autain came so opportunely to take a share in the festi- vity of the day ; and also, because ne were lately informed, that the effects of a late ill- ness had rendered him unequal to the journey. We had the satisfaction to hear this had been merely an excuse ; and that, knowing we were distressed for tea and sugar, &c. he was hurt at the idea of coming empty handed, and therefore had deferred his setting out, waiting impatiently for the arrival of a sloop from Okotsk ; but hearing no intelligence of her, and fearing we should sail before he had visited us, he was resolvr. ed to prosecute the journey, though lie had nothing to present to us but apologies for the poverty of I5ok'heretsk. At the same time he informed us, that the reason of our 784 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, not having' received tlie black cattle, was, that the heavy rains at Verchnei, had pre- vented their setting out. So much generosity and politeness demanded the best answer we were canable of making ; and on coming on board the next day, we saluted him with eleven guns. Friday, the 24th, he was en- tertained on board the Discovery ; and the day following, being the 26th, he returned to Bolcheretsk. No intreaties could prevail on him to extend his visit, having, as he assured us, some expectations that the sub- governor-general wouhl arrive in the sloop expected from Okotsk, he being on a tour through all the provinces of the governor- general of Jakutsk. Without any applica- tion from us, he reinstated the serjeant in his command, before his departure, having resolved to take the Put-parouchick with him. We also understood, that he was much oflended vvith him for punisiiing the Serjeant, as tiiere did not appear to be the slightest grounds for inflicting such chas- tisement. Encouraged by the Ca|)tain's great readiness to oblige us, we ventured to request a small favour for another inhabitant of Knmtsehatka. It was to requite an ho- nest old soldier, who kept a kind of ordinary for the inferior oflicers, and who had done a thousand good offices both for them and the whole crew The Captain obligingly com- plied with our wishes, and dubbed him in- stantly a ci)r|>oral, telling him, at the same time, to thank the English officers for his very great promotion. It may not here be wnnecesstuy to remark, that the lower class of officers in the Russian army, have a greater pre-eminence above the private men, than those in the British service can possi- bly conceive. It was, indeed, a matter of astonishment to us, to see a serjeant assume all the state, and exact as much homage from those beneath him, as though he had been a field-officer. Besides there are seve- ral gradations of rank among them, of which other countries are wholly itrnorant ; there being no less than four intermediate steps between a serjeant and a private soldier. But the discipline of the Russian army, though so extremely remote from the seat of government, is remarkable for its strictness and severity ; not exempting even 8 the commissioned officers. Imprisonment, and bread and water diet, is the punishment of the latter for inconsiderable offences. A good friend ©four's, an ensign in this place, informed us, that the punishment he receiv- ed for having been concerned in a drunken frolic, was ihree months imprisonment in the black hole, with a daily allowance only of bread and water for his subsistence , which so affected his whole nervous system, that he has never since enjoyed a sufficient flow of spirits to qualify him for a convivial meeting. Monday, the 27th, was spent by another party in the diversion of bear-hunting; when Capt. King submitted himself to the direc- tions of the parish-clerk, who had acquired great reputation as a bear hunter. About sun-set they arrived at one of the larger lakes, where it was deemed necessary to con- ceal themselves ; and this was effected easily among some long grass, and brush-wood, ot which we saw great plenty near the water's edge We had not been long under our covert, before our ears were agreeably salut- ed with the growling of bears, in almost every quarter round about us; and we soon had the pleasure of beholding one of them in the water, swimming in a direct course to where we lay concealed. At this time the moon shone, so as to afibrd a consider- able light ; and as the bear advanced to- ward us, three of us fired at it, almost at Mie same instant. Iiniinediately the animal turned short upon one side, and set up a most horrible noise, which was neither yell- ing, growling, nor roaring, but a very extra- ordinary mixture of the whole three. We could easily perceive, that the beast was wounded severely, and that it reached the bank with difficulty ; whence it retreated to some thick bushes not far distant, still con- tinuing to make a hideous noise. The Kamtschadales supposed it to be mortally wounded ; but judged it an act of impru- dence to attempt to rouse it again immedi- ately. It was then nine o'clock ; and as the night became overcast, andachanue of weather was to be apprehended, we thon<;])t it adviseable to return home, and wait till morning for the gratification of ouroiriosity, when wc accordingly repaired to the spot, ser AND ROUND THE WORLD. •P^j and fonnd the bear dead from the wounds it had received. It was a female, and larger than the ordinary size. On Tuesday, the 28th, Capt. King return- ed from his excursion to the ships, not a lit- tle pleased, as it had afforded him an oppor- tunity of seeing a part of the country, and of observing the manners and behaviour of the people, when under no restraint, evi- dently not the case when they were in com- pany with the Russians. On the 30th, our Commodore went to Paratounca ; but, before Ills departure, ordered Capt. King to get the ships out of the harbour, that they might be'in readiness to sail. On Friday, the 1st of October, we had a violent gale of wind, which continued the whole day; but, on the 2nd, both ships warped out of the harbour, and anchored in seven fathoms water, about a quarter of a mile from the Ostrog. Fortunately for us, the day before we quitted the harbour, the cattle from Verchnei arrived ; and that the men might have the full enjoyment of this seasonable supply, by eating it whilst it was fresh, the Commodore determined to stay in our present station five or six days longer. This time, however, was far from being misapplied ; for the pumps., sails, and rigging of each ship, received an additional repair, Capt. King having obtained per- mission to use the copper belonging to the Resolution, and being supplied with mo- lasses from Capt. Gore, he was enabled to brew a sufficient quantity of beer, to last the crew a fortnight, and to make ten additional puncheons of strong spruce essence. This supply was the more acceptable, as our last cask of spirits was now serving out, except a small nuantity reserved for cases of emer- gency. The 3rd, beinc: the birth-day of the Empress of Russia, we were cordially dis- posed to shew it every possible respect. The pastor of Paratounca, Ivaskin, and the Serjeant, were invited to dine with ns ; and an entertainment was prepared for the two Toions of Paratounca, and St. Peter and St. Paul ; as well as for the inferior officers of t'le ifarrison, and the most respectable of the i.ihabitants. All the other natives were in- vited to partake in common with the ships roiii panics ; a pound of excellent beef being served out to every man, and the remainder 5 H of our spirits was made into grog, and dis- tributed among them. Tweuty-oue g«in<* were fired upon the occasion ; am) consider- ing we were in a very remote part of the Empress's dominions, the whole festival was conducted in a manner not unworthy so iilus* trious a character. On Tuesday, the 5th, we received a fresh supply of tea, sugar, and tobacco, from Bolcheretsk. Capt. Shnialetf having met this present oh his return, he transmitted a letter with it, informing us, that the sloop from Okotsk had arrived in his absence, and that Madame Shmaletf had instantly dispatched a courier with these few articles, requesting our acceptance of them. On the two following days we were prevented from unmooring, by reason of fout weather; but on Friday the 8th, all the boats were hoisted in, and we sailed towards the mouth of the bay; when the wind, veer- ing to the S. obliged us to drop anchor, the Ostrog, bearing N. distant half a league. On the 9th, at four o'clock, P. M. we again unmoored ; but as we v»ere raising our last anchor, we were informed that the drummer of the marines had tied from the boat of the Discovery, which had just left the village* and that he had lately been seen with a Kamtschadale woman, to whom he was known to be much attached, and who had importuned him frequently to stay behind. This man was entirely useless in the service, being lamed by a swelling in his knee; and on that very account Capt. King was the more unwilling to leave him behind, lest he should become a miserable burthen to him- self and the Russians. He therefore applied to the Serjeant to send parties of his men after him ; and, in the mean time some sail- ors visited a well known haunt of his in the neighbourhood, where the drummer and his woman were founc^ together. On his return the Discovery weighed ancheri and followed the Resolution. In the instructions for the regulation of the present voyage, the Lords of the Admi- ralty had intrusted the commanding officer of the expedition, with adiscretionary power, in case of not succeeding iri the discovery of a passage from the Pacific Ocean into the Atlantic, to make choice, in his return to England, of whatever route he should judge 0roper ; the Commodore therefore desired. l»- r TS(5 >(>^ AGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, that the prinoipal oificerR would deliver their sentiments, in writing', relative tu the mode in which these instrnttions migiit most eti'ectualjy be carried into execntion. l^e resnit of their opinions, whieh, to his great satisfaction, lie tonnd nnanimous, and perfectly agreeini? with his own, was, that the condition of the ships, their sails, cord- ag-e, &c. rendered it hazardous and unsafe to make any attempt, as the winter was now approaching, to navijsfate the sea between Asia and Japan, which would otherwise have opened to us the most copious field for discovery ; that it was therefore n>ost pru- dent to steer to the eastward of that Island, and in our way thither, to sail along the Kuriles, and examine particularly those Is- lands that are situated nearest to the north- ern coast of Japan, which are said to be of considerable extent, and not subject to the Kussians or Japanese. Should we have the good fortune to meet with some secure and commodious harbours in any of these Isr lands, we supposed they might prove of considerable importance, as con venient places of shelter for subsequent navigators, who might be employed in exploring the seas, or as the means of producing a commercial intercourse among the adjacent dominions of the two above-mentioned empires. Our next object was to take a survey of the Ja- panese Isles ; after which we tiesigned to make the coast of China as far to the N. as might be in our power, and then to proceed to Macao. This plan being adopted, Capt. King received orders, in case the two ships should separate, to repair, without delay to Macao. . On Saturday, the 9th, of, October, at six o'clock P. M. having cleareil tiie entrance of the Bay of Awatska, we made sail to the ?^. E. At midnight we had a dead calm, which continued till noon of the following day. A breeze s[>riuging tip from the W. about three o'clock, P. M. we steered to the S. along the coast. A head-land now opened with Cape Gavareea, in the direc- tion of S. by W. situated nearly twenty miles beyond it. On Monday, the 11th, at noon, we observed in lat. 52 deg. 4 min. long. 158 deg. 31 min. Cape Gavareea bearing N. by W. one quarter W. and the .southern extremity S, W. half \V. We were now at the distance of nine or ten miles from the nearest part of tlie coast, and perceived the whole inland country covered with snow; A point of land to- wards the S. formed .the northern side of a deep bay, distinguished by the name of Achachinskoi, to the southward of which, the land did not exhibit '.such a rugged and barren aspect, as was observable in that part of the country which we had before passed. On Tuesday, the I'ith, at six o'clock P. M. we discerntd, from the mast- head. Cape Lopalka, which is the most southern extreme of KamtschatUa. Tliis, by accurate observations, we found to be in lat. 51 deg. and in the long, of 156 deg. 45 min. We perceived, to tlie N. W. of it, a very lofty mountain, whose summit was lost in the clouds. y\t the same instant, the first of the Kurile Islands, named Slmoin- ska, made its a|)pearaHce, in the direction of W. half S. On Wednesday, the 13th, at da3'^-break, ue descried the second of the Kurile Islands, named Paramonsir, by tlie Russians, extending tVoin W. halfS. to N. W. by W. This land was exceedingly high, and almost covered with snow. The island is the largest of the Kuriles ; and its soutl> ern extremity staiu!,«, accoiom- direction e 13th, al >ntl of the ir, by the fS. to N. inglyhigli, 'he island i its sowtli* o our coni- le north era 46 min. During , blowing teer to the evented ns uriles. Ou 45 tleg. 27 nany lunar ediw?^" ^liiys variation 4 n, Ave were or preteinl- I's; not one lioIj to meet laving veer- thward, \\e e course ot albatrosses, ,f gulls : Nve 'd grampns- le rather in- .uee of those el;.-, that ihi y were the kasatUa, or sword-iish. Sunday, the 17th, we observed in lat. 45 deg. 7 rain, long. 154 deg. On the IfJth, at two o'clock, A. M. we hauled our wind, and stood to the southward till iive, at which time a violent storm reduced us to our courses. Sistei-s, in their proper situation, and have totally omitted the rest. >V hen we consider the manner ni whirh flie Russians have muh^plied tlie Ihlandsof the northein Archi- pelago, not only from the want of accuracy in ascertaining their real position, but like- Though from the unfavourable state of the wise from the desire, natural to mankind, of weather, there was but little probability of propagating new discoveries, we shall not our making the land, our attention was still he surprized, that the same causes should anxiously directed to this object ; and on the produce similar eilects. It is thus that the appearance of day-light, we ventured to islands of Jeso, which appear, as well from steer W. by S. We proceeded on the same the earliest Iraditions among the Russians, course till ten o'clock, when the wind sud- as from the accounts of the .Japanese, U* be denly veered round to the S. W. attended no other than the Knrile Islands, have been with fair weather. Scarce had we availed ourselves of this, by letting out our reefs, and setting the top-sails, when it began to blow with such vehemence, that we were under the necessity of close reefing again ; and, about noon, the wind shifting more to the W. we were prevented from continuing imagined to be distinct from the latter, De Gaina's land is next on record ; and this was originally represented as being nearly the same in situation with those we have just mentioned ; but it was afterwards re- moved, in order to make room for Slaten's Island, and the Company's land ; and as any longeron this tack: we therefore put Jeso, and the most southerly of the Kuriles, about, and stood towards the S. We were had likewise possession of this spare, that now in lat. 44 de^. 12 min. long. 150 deg. nothing might be lost, the former had a 40 min. so that, after all our exertions, we place provided for it westward, and the lat- had the mortification of finding ourselves, ter towards the E. As, according to the according to the Russian charts, upon the Russian charts, the Isles of Knnaskir and same meridian with Nadeegsda, which they Zellanv, were still to the S. we entertained represent as the most southerly of all the some hopes of being able to make them. Kiirile Islands. Though the violent and adverse winds that we had met with for six days past, had deprived us of an opportu- nity of getting in with these Islands, yet the course on which we had been obliged to proceed, did not prove altogether desti- tute of geographical advantages : for the group of Islands, comprehending Zellany, Kunashir, and the Three Sisters, which, in the maps of M. D'Anville, are laid down in the track we had just crossed, are, by this means, demonstrably removed from that ])osition ; and thus an additional jjroof is obtained of their heing situated to the W. where Capt. Spanberg has placed them, between the longitudes of 142 and 147 deg and, with this view, ke|)t the head of the Resolution towards the W. as much as the wind would permit. On Wednesday, the 20tli, al noon, we observed in lat. 43 deg. 47 min. long. 150 detr. 30 min. We were then standing to the W. by S with a gentle breeze from the S. E. but about three o'clock, P. M. the wind, shifting to the N. W. point, begap to blow with such violence, that we were brought under our mizen stay- sail, and fore-sail. For the following twenty- four hours we had heavy rain, and vehe- ment squalls; and as the wind continued to blow from the N. W, our attempts to make the land were rendered abortive ; and we were at length obliged to relinquish all But this space being occupied, in the French ftnther thoughts of discovery to the north- cliarts, by Staten Island, and part of the ward of Japan. To this disappointment supposed land cf Jeso, the opinion of Muller we submitted with the greater reluctance, hecomes highly probable, that they are all as our curiosity had been considerably ex- the same lands ; and, as we have no reason cited by the accounts that are given of the to call in question the accuracy of Span- natives of these Islands. On the 2ist, in herg, we have, in our general chart, rein- the afternoon, an accident befel our ship, slated Kunashir, Zellany, and the Three the Resolution ; for the leach-rope of her a "I 788 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, fore-top-sail gave way and split the sail. This having frequently happened during the life of Capt. Cook, he had, on such occasions, ordered the foot and leach-ropes of the top-sails to be taken out, and larger ones to be fixed in their room ; and these likewise proving incapable of sup|K>rting the strain that was on them, gave him good reason to observe to us, that the just pro- portion of strength between the sail and those ropes, is extremely miscalculated in our service. On the 22nd, in the morning, we let out the reefs of our top-sails, and car- ried more sail. At noon, we found ourselves to be in lat. 40 deg. 58 niin. Jong. 148 deg. 17 min. variation of the needle 3 deg. E. This day, some birds afforded us clear indi- cations that we were not at any consider- able distance from land: with this hope we steered to the VV. N VV. in which direction were situated, at the distance of about fifty leagues, the southernmost Islands, seen by Capt. Spanberg, and said to be inhabited by liairy men. At eight o'clock, the follow- ing morning, a fresn breeze springing up, with which we continued our course till the evening, when we had violent squally gales, accompanied with rain ; and as we had, in the course of this day, passed some Eatches of green grass, and observed anum- er of small land birds, a shag, and many flocks of gulls, we did not think it consist- ent with prudence, having all these signs of the vicinity of land, to sfand on for the whole night : about midnight therefore we tacked, and for the space of a (ew hours steered S. E. Sunday, the 24th, we again bore away to the W. N. W. and carried a press of sail till seven o'clock, P. M. when the wind veered round to the N. and blew a fresh gale. At this time our lat. was 40 deg. 67 min. long. 14'> deg. 20 min. This second disappointment in our attempts to get to the N. W. the tempestuous weather with which we had been harrassed, and the small pro- bability, at this season of the year, of its becoming more favourable to our designs, were the motives that now induced Capt. Gore to abandon finally all further search for the Islands situate to the northward of Japan, and to direct our course to the W. S. VV. for the northern part of that Island. On the 26tli, at noon, we were in lat. 40 deg. 18 min. and in long. 144 deg. Flights of wild ducks were this day observed by us ; a pigeon lighted upon our riirgiuur;* quJ many small birds, reseudiling linnets, Hew about our ships, with a degree of vigour, tliaf gave us reason to imagine they had nol been long on the wing. We also passed a piece either of bauit>oo or sugar-cane, and several patches of long grass. Tiitse indi- cations of our being at no great distauce from land, determined us to try for sound- ings ; but w' could not reach the bottom with ninety fathoms of line. On the ap- proach of eveninsr, the wind gradually ve.r ed round to the S. with which we continued our course to the VV. S. VV. On Tuesday, the 26th, at day-break, we had the satisjuc- tion of perceiving high-land towards the VV. which proved to be Japan. At eight c'chirk, it was at the distance often or twelve miles and extended from S. by VV. to N. VV. A low flat Cape, which apparently constituted the southern | t of the entrance of a bay, bore N. VV. three quarters VV. Near the S. extremity, a hill of a conic figure appeared, bearing S. by VV. three quarters VV. To the N. of this hill, there seemed to be an inlet of very considerable depth, the northern side of whose entrance is formed by a low Koint of land ; and, as well as we wereeiia- led to judge by the assistance of our glasses, has a small Island near it towards the S. Having stood on till nine o'clock, we had, by that time, approached within five or six miles of the land, which bore VV. three quarters S. We now tacked, and stood off, but as the wind failed us, we had proceeded, at noon, to no greater distance than three leagues , from the shore. This part of the coast extended from N. VV. by N. to S. half E. and was principally bold and cliffy. The low cape above mentioned, was about six leagues distant, bearing N. VV. by \V, and the northern point of the inlet was in the direction of S. three quarters W^. Our lat. by okservation, was 40 de^. 5 min. and our long. 142 deg. 28 min. The mosi north- erly land in view, was supposed by us to Iw the northern extreme of Japan. It is some- what lower than the other parts; and from the range of the elevated lands that wete discerned over it frcu) the mast-head, the AND ROUND THE WORLD. 789 lat. 40 by us ; s, ttew iir, that aii ixii sissed a tie, and se indi- distance souud'- bottom the a|)" d»y ve.r lontinued Tuesday, ; satislat- dslbe VV. l»t o'clock, .\ve miles »i. W, A lonstitated of a bay, ear the S. appeared, V^. To the )e an inkt e northern [d by a low i were ena- jour glasses, lards the S. ;U, we had, five or six W. three , stood off , proceedfti, than tliree ,art of the to S. hall and clitly. was about , W. by W. iinlet was in s W. Our 5 inin. and most north- lay UR to l>€ It is some- s; and from Ids that wet'e isl-head, the coast manifestly appeared to trend to the four hours ; but our deptti of water was su westward. The northern point of the inlet great, that we did not find ground with an was imagined by us to be Cape Nambu ; hundred and sixty fathoms of line, and we conjectured, that the town, which On Thursday, the 28th, at six o'clock Jansen calls Nabo, stood in a break of the A. M. we a<^ain saw land, twelve leagues to high land, towards which the inlet apparently the southward of that we had seen the day directed itself. The neighbouring country is before, and extended from W. by N. to \W of a moderate elevation, and has a double S. W. At ten o'clock we saw more land in range of niountaiits. It is well furnished the same direction. At noon, the northern with wood, and exinbitsa variety of pleasing extremity of the land in view bore N. W. by bills and dales. We perceived the smoke N. and a peaked hill, over a steep head-land, arising from several villages or towns, and was fifteen or sixteen miles distant, bearing saw many houses in delightful und cultivated W. by N. By observation, our lat. was SS situations, at a small distan(;e from the shore, deg. 16 min. and our long. 14*2 deg. !> min. While the calm continued, that we might During the remainder of the day, we conti- loose no time, we put our fishing lines over- nuea our course to the S. W. and at mid- board, in ten fathoms water, but had no night, found our depth of water to be 70 success. This being the only diversion which fathoms, over a bottom of fine brown sar. 1. our present circumstances would permit us We therefore hauled up towards the E. till to enjoy, we very sensibly felt our disap- the next morning, when we again had sight pointment ; and looked back with regret to of land, 11 leagues to the 8. of that we had " ■ " seen the preceding day. The ground was the cod-banks of the disaiai regions we had lately quitted, which had turnished us with so many salutary meals, and by the amuse- ment they had afforded, given a variety to the tedious recurrence of astronomical ob- low towards the sea, but gradually swelled into hills of a moderate elevation. At nine o'clock, the sky being overcast, anin the mast-head. We proceeded towards According to the most probable conjectures tlie coast till eis^ht in the evenifitr, when our we were enabled to form, the vessel was of di'^tancc from it was about dve lea«rues, and the burthen of 40 tons ; and there seemed bavins shortened s;»i' !'oi the night, we steer- to ht six men ot» board her. Si\o. had only ed in a souUierly dueciion, sounding every ouemast, whereon washoisttilaq(»adr^sel was lower in the middle than at each end ; and from her fiijure we supposed, that she could not sail otherwise than large. At noon, the wind blew fresh, accompanied with miicii ruin. Hy three o'clock it had increased in so g-reat a degree, that we were reduced to our courses. The sea, at the same time, ran as high as any of our people ever remember to have seen it About eight o'clock, in the eveninjr, the gale, without the smallest diminution of violence, shifted to the W. and by |m>ducing a sudden swell, in a direction contrary to that which had before prevailed, caused our ships to labour and strain exceeilinsly. During the storm, we had several of our sails split. 1'hey had, indeed, been bent for so long a time, and were worn so thin, that this accident had happened lately in both vessels almost daily ; jarticularly when the sails were stiff, and leavy with rain, in which case they became ess capable of bearing the shocks of the )oisterous and variable winds we experienc- ed occasionally. On Saturday, the 30th, at noon, we observed in lat.36deg.41 min. long. 142 deg. 6 min. In the afternoon, the wind shifting to the N. E. we stood to the S. at the distance of 18 leagues from the shore. On the 3lst, at two o'clock A. M. the wind veered round to the W. and blew in violent squalls, accompanied with lightning and rain. Monday, November the 1st, the wind shifted to the S. E. and was attended with fair weather ; in consequence of which, we obtained, with four different quadrants, 42 sets of distances of the moon, from the sun and stars, each set comprehending six obser- vations. These nearly coinciding with each other, we determined, at noon, by observa- tion, our lat. to be ilo deg. 17 min. and our long, with great accuracy, to be 141 deg. 32 min. At two o'clock, we asrain made land towards the W. distant 13 leagues. A hummock to the northward, which had an insular appearance bore N. N. W. half VV. We steered for the land till between five and six, when we hauled our wind to the 8. At this time we descried to the westward a mountain of extraoniinary height, wilh a round summit, rising far inland. In its neighbourhood, the coast is of a moderate elevation ; but, to the S. of the hnnimuck Island, there appeared at a considerable dis- tance up the country, a ridge of hills, ex- tending towards the mountain, and which might perhaps join it. As the weather, in the morning of the 2nd, liad a very threat- ening appearance, and the wind was at S. S. E. we thought it adviseable to quit the neighbourhood of the shore, and stand off towards the £. that the ships might not be entangled with the land. We were not deceived in our prognostications; for not long afterwards, a heavy gale began to blow, which continued till the next day, and was attended with rainy and hazy weather. On Wednesday the 3d, in the morning, we found ourselves by our reckoning, upwards of fifty leagues from the coast; which cir- cumstance, united to the consideration of the verv uncommon effect of currents we had .already experienced, the advanced period of the year, the variable and uncer- tain state of the weather, and the small prospect we bad of any alteration for the better, induced Captain (iore to form the resolution of leaving Japan, and j)roseculing our voyage to China: to which facts may be added ; that the coast of Jaj>an, accord- ing to Kaempser's descrifitioii of it, is the most dangerous in all the known world ; that it would have been exceedingly hazard- ous, in case of distress, to have run into any of the harbours of that country : where, it we may credit the most authentic writers, the aversion of the natives to a communica- tion with strangers, has prompted them to the commission of the most flagrant acts of barbarity; that our vessels were in a leaky condition : that the rigging was so rotten its to require continual repairs; and that tite sails were almost entirely worn out, and in- caf»able of withstanding the vehemence of a gale of wind. As the violent currents, which set along the eastern coast of Japan, may perhaps be attended with dangerous conse- quences to those navigators, who are not acquainted with their extreme rapidity, we will here subjoin a summary account of their direction and force, as remarked by us from the 1st, to the 8tb, of November. On the AND ROUX?^ THE WORLD. 701 with a In its noderote nmmock Able dis- tills, ex- id wbion ather, in y threat- lI was at o quit the stand on ht not be were not ,; for not xn to blow, y and was ather. On )rniug, we g, upwards which cir- iileration ot currents we ,e advanced . and unccr- il the small ^tion for the to form the \ prosecuting h facts may jnan.accord- of it, is the lown world ; inglv hazard- ! run into any y ; where, it entic writers, communica- pted them to ^jrrant acts of re in a leaky IS so rotten as and that the 1 out, and in- shemence pt a urrents, winch Japan, tnaV igerous oonsf- , who are not e rapidity, vve '.ccountol their ed by m* irom ,ber. Oa the Istj at Ihi tint* when we 'vere about 18 our approach to the point. The Uesolntion leagues to the IL of White Point, the cur- having |)a.ssed nearer the land, several of rent set at tlie rate of 3 miles in .an hour, to our oHicers thought they discerned steams the N. E. and by N. On the 2nd, as we proceeding from tht; top of the hill. These made a nearer a[)proach to the shore, we circumstances induced the ('ommodore to observed, that it continued in a similar di- bestow on this discoverv, the name of Sul- rection, but was augmented in its rapidity phur Islaiul. On !•' riday, the 2(>th, at six to 5 miles an hour. As we receded from o'clock A. M. the wind having considerably the coast, it again became more moderate, abated, we set our top-sails, let out the reef;*, and inclined towards the E. On the ;3rd, and bore away to the westward. At noon, at the distance of 60 leai^ues from the shore, we observed in lat. til deg. 12 min. long 120 it set, at the rate of ii miles an hour, to the deg. 25 min. In the course of this day, we Vj. N. E. On the two following days, it saw many tropic birds, and a flock of ducks ; turned to the southward, and at 120 leagues also porpoises and dolphins ; and continued fiom the coast, its direction was S. E. and to pass many pumice stones. We spent tins its rate did not exceed one mile and a half night on our tacks ; and en the 27th, at six an hour. It again, on the 6th, and 7th, o'clock A. M. we again made sail to the shifted to the N. E. and its force diminished W. in search of the J* .shee Isles. On the gradually till the Hth, at which time we 28th, at four o'clock, A. M. we had sight oi could not perceive any current. the Island of Prata. At noon, our l.it. was . During the 4tli: and 5th of November, we 20 deg. 39 min. long. 1 IG de^. 45 min. The proceeded to the south-eastward, with very extent of the Prata shoal is considerable ; unsettled weather, having much lightening for it is about 6 leagues from N. to S. and and rain. On Saturday, the (>th, we chang- extends 4 leagues to the E. of the Island : ed our course to theS. S, W. but about its limits to the westward, we had ^lot an eight o'clock, in the evening, we were oblig- opportunity of ascertaining. We carried a ed to stand towards the S. E. On the 9th, press of sail during the remainder of the day, at noon, we observed in lat. 31 dig. 46 min. and kept the wind, which now ble'v from long. 146 ih'i;. 20 min. Friday, the 12th, the N. E. by N. in order to secure okv,- pas- a most violent gale arose, which reduced us sage to Macao. to the mizen-stay-sail and foro-sail. At On Monday the 29erceived by us in immediately laying hold of the wheel, b £an r 7 t^-m 792 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, 1u order the sails to be trimmed. This gave rise *o a violent uSteredtioii, which was at I en 'til compromised, by iitfreeing to divide the money between them. In obedience to the instructions from the Lords of the Ad- miralty, it now became necessary to demand of the officers and men, belonging to both ships, their journals, and what other papers they might have iu tiieir possession, relative to the history of the voyage. At the same time Capt. King gave the Discovery's people to understand, that whatever papers they wished should not be sent to the Lords of the Admiralty, he would seal up in their presence, and preserve in his custody till the intentions of their Lordships, respecting the publication of the history of the voyage, were accomplished, after which, he said they should be faithfully restored to them. The Captain observes upon this occasion, that it is hut doing justice to- his company to de- clare, that, as to the crew, they were the best disposed, and the most obedient men he ever knew, though the greatest part of them were very young, and had never served before in a ship of war. The same propo- sals were made to the people of the Resolu- tion, and instantly complied with. We continued working to windward, by the direction of our pilot, till about six o'clock P. M when we let go our anchors, he being of opinion, that the tide was now setting against us. During the afternoon, we stood on our tacks, between the Grand Ladrone and the Island of Potoe, having passed to the east of the latter. At nine o'clock we again cast anchor in six fathoms water; the town of Macao being at the dis- tance of 9 or 10 miles, in a N.W. direction ; and the Jsland of Potoe bearing S. half W seven milts distant. On the 2nd, of December, in the morning, one of the Chinese contractors, called Com- pradors, came on board, and sold us as much beef as weighed 2(K) weight, together with a considerable quantity of greens, oranges, and egsfs. In the evening, Capt. Gore sent Capt. King on shore to visit the PortugUfcjse Ijovernor, and to request his assistance iu procuring refreshmeniS, which he. thought might be done on more reason- able terms than the Comprador would un- dertake to furnish them ; with whoDi we 8 had ngref'vl for a daily supply ; for which, however, he insisted on our paying him be- fore-hand. Upon Capt. King's arrival at the citadel, the i'ort-Major informed him that the governor v as sick, and not aWe to see company. Having acquainted the Major with his desire of proceeding immediately to Canton, the former told him, that they could not presume to provide a boat, till, permission had been obtained from the Hoppo, or officer of the customs ; and that it was necessary to apply, for this purpose, to the Chinese government at Canton. When the Captain was returning, the Por- tuguese officer asked him, if he did not mean to visit the English gentlemen at Macao t This question gave him inexpres- sible pleasure. He proceeded immediately to the bouse of qne of his counti'y men ; from whom he received information of the Frencli war, and of the continuance of the Ameri- can war; and that five sail of En polish ships were now at Wampu, near Canton, in China. The intelligence we had gained concerning the state of" affairs, in Europe, rendered us the more anxious to accelerate our de|)ar- ture as much as we possibly could. The first thing th{«t claimed the attention of the Coknmodore, was to provide as well as lif could for the general safety of the people under his command, on their return home. The news of a French war, without Ietlint>' us know the order issued by the king ot France in our favour, gave us much con- cern. Our ships were ill fitted for war: the decks, fore and aft, being finished flush, iiad no covering for men or officers ; it wna therefore thought necessary to raise a kind .)f parapet, musket-proof, on both decks; and likewise to strengthen the cabins as much as possible in case of action. On Thursday, the 9th, we received an answer from the English super-cargoes at Canton, in which they promised to exert their most strenuous endeavours in procuring the siij)- plies of which we were in want, with all possible dispatch ; and that a passport should be sent for one of our officers. Fri- day, the 10th, an Kngligh merchant, from one of our East-India" settlements, mmU' application to Capt Gore, for the assistance of a few of his people, to navigate as far us Canton, a vesiel which he had purchased at AND ROUND THE WORLD. ri« or whicb, g him be- rival at the 1 him that iWe to see the Major iimediately , that thev i boat, till, from the ; and that liis purpose, at Canton. ig, the Por- he tlid not jutlenien at im inexpres- imuiediately lymen ; tVom Df the French f the Amevi- English ships ton, in China, ed concerning J, rendered us te our denar- f could. ll»e tention of the as well as be of the people return homo, rithout letting »y the king ot us much con- itted for war : finished flush, fficers; it was o raise a kind n both decks; the cabins as ,f action. On ,ved an answer es at Canton, in ert their most curing the sup- want, with all lat a passnort r officers, rn- inerchant, from tleinents, made r the assistance rigaie as far as ad purchased at Macao. The Comnioflore considering this the 2(>th, and, on the following day, the as a i>oosaih>rs. desired ('apt. Kiuy to take with him about Accordingly, they quillt.fnuiking our and received SOO u»ander being eny.iged to hujg ago worn out, or r(*j)aired and paldi- Itring our party from (auton, and to de- ed up uith skins, and the ;* hottoui con- AU. We CO UK Ol- io loot; he situated 114 del at four oc hirk N. W. by W. and distant about 4 leairues. on the Sumatra ■'bore ; IMonnpin Mill bear- Ilavinjr passed this Island, we stood to the iii<>- N. 54 dei;. W . and our hil. Iiein;^ 2 deg. westward; and on the 20th, made the Httle 22 niiii. S. loiif?. 105 de^i. ;i8 miii. E. At jfroup of Islands known by the name of three in the afternooM \\f weii^hed, and con- Pulo Condore, :'t one of which we anclior- tinned our rf)nrsH thronsh tiie straits witli a ed in six fathoms water. The harbour where jjentie l)reeze. In |)assiny these srraits, ships we now moored, has its entrance from the n»ay make a nearer appr<»ach t(j the coast ot" N. W. and affords the best shelter during the Sumatra than to that of Banca, On Sunday. N. E. monsoon. Its entrance bore V/. N. tjie 6th, in the mornitm', we passeJ t() the W. W. quarter W. and N. by W. the openint? at the upper end bore S. E. by E. three auarters JE. and vve were about 2 furlontrs istant from the shore. On the 2lst, early of Lusepara ; ann of S. hy W. half W. At seven we cast anchor three leaifues to the nortliwaid (»f those Island><. in the morning, parties were sent out to cut On the 7th, at five o'clock, A. M. we weiiih- wood, the Commodore's principal motive lor ed, and in three hoi-.rs atterwards we were in touching at this Island bei'.ig to supply the siijht of the Sisters, 'i'hese are two Islamls ships with that article. of very small extent, plentilnlly stock* il with Ou Friday, ti»e 28fJi, we unmoored, and wood, and situated \\\ 50 pearance in thedirec- the Dutchman; and on the lOlli, in the tion of S. W. by W. distant 7 leagues. On morning, 3Ir, Williamson went on board t ' 3r iniii. I .. The whole circnmference of the Isliind does not exceed 9 miles. The Island of S mibf.ii- ricon or Tamarin, which sta.ids 1*2 iniles to J lie northward of Cracatoa, may easily be mistaken for the latter, since it has a iiill of neai ly the same (ij;nre and diinensi<>us, situ- ate likewise near its south end. The lat. of the road where we cast anchor, is 8 deg. 6 niin. S. long, by observation, lOo deg. 3ii min. E. It is high water on the full aniarch, we had a regular trade wind from I he S. E. to E. by S. accom- panied with l\ut weather; nnd as we sailed in an old beaiep, track, no incident worthy (»f notice occurred. It Inid hitherto been ('apt. (lore's intention to jiroceed directly to St. Heleoa, witlnnit stop/iing at the Cape ; Init our rudder having been for some tinte com|)laininu, and, on being examined, re- ported t«» be in a dangerous state, he resoli- ed to steer dnecfly for the Cape, as the most eligible place, both for the recovery of tl;e sick, and for procuring a new main piece for the rudder. Monday, the 10th, of April, a snow was seen bearing dow n, which |)roved to he an English East liniia packet, that had left Table Bay three days before and was cruizing with orders for the China fleet, and o*^'»r India ships. She told us, that, about three weeks before, Mons, Trongollar's squadron consisting of six ships, had sailed from Ui" Cape, and was tfone to cruize ofl" St. Hehi..!, for the English East Indiamen. 'i'lte i.cxt morning we sto.ul into Simon's Bay. At eijfht <»'clock, we came to anchor, at the >t shore; the S. E. pomt of the bay beari:i;r ''^ •T AND ROUND TIIF. WORLD. m) villi some dilh- J place : it may. o give a particn- n, tortile benefit riie peaked liill ly N. iVorn it. A (»\vs on a coral d from the adja- the north of it ; ass, may be seen will indi<;ate the larcres itself into :S as well as that in lienerai salt, jt 60 yards hiprher , the fresh water hills, is in great eaves, and ninst by clearing them ichorin(?-place at G mill. 16 sec. S. [iin. 30 see. E. \ve wi'ie attacked led with thnnder, From the 26th, e had a regnlar E. by S, act he bay beaiinyr '*•• by E. ami Ta!>ie Mountain N. E. half N. Simon's Bay, the only commodious station The Nassau and Southampton East India- for shif>ping to lie in. To the N. N. east- jncM were here, in expectation of a convoy ward of this bay, there are some others, from tVoni Europe. We saluted the fort with 11 which, however, it mav with ease be distin- gnn«, anfKhor, Mr. Brandt, the governor of this object. 'I'he anch' .ng place in Simon's j'l'.ict', favoured us with a visit. This gentle- Bay, is situated in So lat.of fJ4deg. 20min. ciiin had the highest regard for Capt. Cook, S. and its long, is '.H deg. 29 min. E. In \vh') had been his constant guest, whenever steering tor the I a Dour, along the western he had touched attlie Cape ; and though he shore, there is a small flat rocic, known by hasi, .some lime before, received intelligence the name of Noah's Ark ; and abont a mile of his untimely fate, he was extremely affect- to the N. eastw ird of it, are others denomi- t d at the sight of our vessels returning with- nated the Ron an Rocks. The.se are a mile out their old Commander. He was greatly and a half di,st.nt from the anchoring place; surfirised at seeing most of our people in so and either to ♦he northward of them, or be- healthva state, as the Dulch ship which had tween them ^ere is a .safe passage into the rpiittedi Mocao, at the time of our arrival bay. Wb... the N. westerly gales are .set in, there, and had afterwards slopped at the tlie navigator, by the foilouiiig bearings. Cape, reported, that we weie in a most wretched condition, there being only 15 hands left on board the Resolution, and 7 •II the Discovery. Il is dilhcult to conceive what could have induced these people to propagate so infan>ous a falsehood M ill be uirected to a .secure and convmient station: Noah's Ark S. .'>1 dt:.?. E. and the center of the hospital S. -')ii deg. W. in 7 fathoms water. But if the S, tas.L.ly winds should not have ceased blowing, it is mote adviseable to remain farther out in 8 or i) On Saturday the 15th, Capt. King accom- fathoms water. The bottom consists of sand, panied our Commodore to Cape Town ; and and the anchors, before ihey get hold, settle the next day, in the morning, they waited on considerably. About two leagues to the Baron Plettenberg, the Governor, who re- ea.stward of Noah's Ark, stands St^al I !»land, reived them with every possible indication m hose southern part is said to be dangerous, of civility ai»d politeness. He entertained a and not to be approached with safety, nearer great |)ersonal esteem for Capt. Cook, and than in 22 fathoms water, professed the highest admiration of his cha- On Tuesday the f)th, of May, signid was racter, and on hearing the recital of his made for unmoorinij', and abont noon, we alFecting catastropiie, broke forth into many took our departure iProm Simon's Bay. We expressions of nnatiected sorrow. In one of liad now provisions, live stock, water, and the principal apartments of the Baron's na\al stores, aboard in great plenty : also house, he shewed our gentlemen two pic- ht althy crews, in hiuh spirits, wishing for tures, one of De Ruyter, the other of Van nothing but a fair wind to shorten our pa.«;- Tromp, with a vacant space left bet\\een sa^e home. On the 14th, we got into the them, which he said, he intended to /Ml up S. E. trade wind, and stood to the W. o^ 'vith the portrait of Capt. Cook ; anJ for the Islands of Ascension and St Helena, .jis purpose he requested that they would ^V edne.«;df«y, theSlsN we were in hit. 12 deg. f'udeavour to procure one for him on their '18 min. S. long. 15 deg. 40 min. \V. On arrival in Great Britain, at any price. Dur- Saturday the 10th, of June, the Di.scovciv'-* ing our continuance attlie Cape, we met boat brought ns word, that in exercising tier with the most friendly treatment, not only great guns, the carpenter's mate had his liono \i)e Governor, but also from the other arm shattered in a shocking manner, ly principal person.s of the place, as well Afri- ])art of the wat'ding bting left in after a .!!• V . > E'.ropenns. former di.scharge ; anolher man wassbsib.tly False Bay lies to the eastward of the wounded at the sanu' time. On the I'Jth. Cape ; and at the distance of about 12 miles it began to Mow v« ly hard ; nnd contiuoMi Irowi the latter, on the western side is so till the nei.t duy, vvh, « we crosstd (!'< 798 VOYAGE TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, r line to the northward, for the fourth time duriner our voyage, in the long, of 26 deg. 16min. W. On Saturday the 12th, of August, we descried the western coast of Ireland, and endeavoured in vain to get in to Port Gal way, but were compelled by violent southerly winds, to stand to the N. The wind conti- nuing in the same quarter we made the Is- land of Lewis. On Tuesday, the 22nd, about eleven o'clock A. M. both ships came to anchor at Stromness in Scotland : from whence the Commodore sent Cant. King to inform the Lords of the Admiralty of our arrival. On the 30tli, we arrived otf Yarmoth. in comoiuiy with his Majesty's sloops of war the Fly and Alderney. Our boats were hn* mediately sent on shore for provisions, and for a spare oable for our small bower, that we had being nearly worn out. On the 4th, of October, 1780, the Resolu- tion and Discovery reached the Nore in safety; and, on the Gth, dropped anchors ai IVpt- ford ; having been absent 4 years. 3 moiuhs, and 2 days. It is very extraordinary, that m so long and hazardous a voyage, the two ships never lost sight of each other for a day together, except twice ; the first time, owing to an a<- cideul that happened to the Discovery off the coast of Owhyhec ; the second, to llie fogs they i.:*'t with at the entrance of Awal- ska Bay ; a striking proof of the sUill and vigilance of the subaltern officers. Another circumstance, no less remarkable, is, the uncommon healthiness of the companies ot both ships. When Capt. King quitted the Discovery at Stromuess, he had the satisfac- tion of leaving the whole crew in perfect health ; and, at the same ti