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VOYAGE li I OK CAPTAIN ROSS. «vA| PMiviiD nv ,1. mini, if,, nt e M(intm(iiiisn(». »» /v^n I NARRATIVE A SECOND VOYAGE* IN SEAaCU OF A m NORTHWEST PASSAGE AND OF A RESIDENCE IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS DURING THE YEARS 1829, 1830, 1831, 1832, 1833, BY SIB JOHN ROSS, C.B., K.S.A., K.CS., 4 captaiv i\ the ROVAL NAVY; inCLDOING c. THE REPORTS OP CAPT. J. C. ROSS, R N . F.tt.S. F. L. S., ^c. AND TUB DISCOVERY OF THE NORTHERN MAGNETIC POLE. PARIS, BAUDRYS EUROPEAN LIHRARY. nu» DO co(j, MPAn tub louvub. T,ri"::r:;ri" :;;-:.'."'"'':■ •"'"■'""»» HUK VIVIKNNE. 1835^ « Examination i tended to ti Discoveriea Attempts to M 'races of E( H.-irhniir. ♦ CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. The Project of (he Expedition and its Outfit CHAPTER II. Leave the River— Detention at the Isle nf M=n a • . g.neer-LandingatPortLogan-\rrtallShli^^^^^ '"• '^' ^"- John Tender. . . , •""^^"" ^"C" Ryan— Meeting of the CHAPTER III. CHAPTER IV. ""o&rArss.Sff. rr«*is t »■■;- '^— sigh, CHAPTER V. partnre from Holsteinborg . . "'^ "' '"^ Rookwood— De- CHAPTER VI. ""''^'oi^'nlii^ltZrr:^^^^ furthest intended on the fomer Discovery ofthfs Spot .^^"'*''/''« Sonnd^Remark" CHAPTER VII. Progress down Lancaster Sound— Siirh* ^r r^^u ■ tains-Pass Cane York and" teerfoJprL.eR ""'»'"." ^'i^abeth Moun- and Elwin Bay-The Comnasses rpf/.? /*^^^"' ' *"'^'--Cape Elwin Bay-Approach\o Fury BeSflpirst sL .? n?r^'~^'^ •'.ne Of the Wreck-The Victory nioore,!^ '^' ^'"' •'"'^^ ^'^ «' ♦"« * ' • ■ • , CHAPTER VIII. I>.-ver.es n,ade and "a-a-ObSfbTtie^^^il^i-S;^ CHAPTER IX. Attempts to Work along Shore-nu^ov-r- - "-- - f races 01 Ksqnimaux-Labourine^anion'^ lho\"'' f^^ean-Lai.d there- Harhnur. "^ """»"« *"e Ice— Discovery of Elizabeth Pagf 20 33 41 62 71 70 Si) CONTENTS. CHAPTER X. Attempt to quit Elizabeth Harbour — Slow Progress along Shore— Critical Position of the Ship among the Ice, and Escape through Perilous Passage Discovery of Ed ipse Harbour— Further Discoveries — Cape St. Ca- therine and Lax Harbour. . . . , CHAPTER XI. A heavy Gale : Succession of Tempestuous Weather, with snow— Partial clearing of the Ice, and extrication from it — Discover the Island of An- drew Ross, Capo Margaret, Best Harbour, and Martin Islands— A new Bay End of September— General Remarks on the progress of the Ship and the mode of navigating among Ice CHAPTER Xn. Remarks on the present condition of the Ship— and preparations to reduce the encumbrance of the Engine— Unrigging of the Ship— A successful # Bear Hunt— Ascertain that we are truly frozen in for the Winter— A Powder Magazine erected on shore— Provisions examined — The Guns and^ parts of the Engine hoisted out CHAPTER XIII. Remarks on the actual Tempcratuie and on that of Sensation— Pro -leed in lightening the Ship— The Engine finally landed, and the Krubonstern secured— Roofing of the Ship completed — Remarks on the Temperature — Abolition of the use of Spirits on Board — Contrivances for Warming and \'cntilating the Vapour between Decks — Description of the several ar- ran"emcnts made for Wintering, as relating both to the Ship and the Crew. CHAPTER XIV. The Month commences Stormy and Cold— Improvement in its progress Remarks on the Thermometer and Barometer — Occurrence of a splendid Aurora Borealis — Summary of the Month. .... CHVPTER XV. Repeated occurrence of Aurora Borealis — Christmas-day— Summary of the Month— Remarks at the termination of the Year 1829 CHAPTER XVI. Commencement of the Year 1830— First meeting with the Esquimaux on this Coast—Description of their Village, and of their Society and Manners— They are entertained on Board — Communicate some Geographical In- formation, and promise more CHAPTER XVII. Receive more Geographical Information from one of the Natives called Ik- mallik — Continue our Communications with them — Pure Mercury freezes at length, at minus 39" — The first Sunrise of the Year— Death of the Armourer — End of the Month, and Summary Page luu 108 123 132 144 109 Pilfering CHAPTER XVIII. on th'.'. jwrt of th; N.itives— The first fall of Snow of this Year — Native Dance — Summary of the Month of February 170 I Hit s Page liiu lOS 123 132 144 16» 170 ih:< CONTENTS. iii CHAPTER XIX. *'"*' Purchase of Dogs from the Natives— Commander Ross departs on an Expe- dition to the Nctive Huts, for information— Process of building Snow Huts— Summary of the Month of March 189 CHAPTER XX. Proceedings to the Tenth of April, 1830— Journey and Narrative of Com- mander Ross IQg CHAPTER XXI. Narrative of Commander Ross jijg CHAPTER XXII. Proceedings in the Ship, and with the Natives . . . . - . . .^o^ CHAPTER XXIII. Commander Ross's Second Journey and Narrative .^ijj CHAPTER XXIV. Departure of Commander Ross on a Tiiird Expedition— Tlirealeniiii' of a Rupture with the Natives— Commander Ross's Return. . ^ . 216 CHAPTER XXV. Narrative of Commander Ross ^ 219 CHAPTER XXVI. Repetition of heavy Snow— Another Expedition by Commander Ross— Another Expedition under my own charge— Summary of the Month jf ^P"' 210 CHAPTER XXVH. Expedition commenced-Narrativc of our Journey-Return to the Ship -Observations made to obtain the difference of the Elevation of the uetfc Fore" '"" ^""^-The Dip of the Needle, and intensity of Mag- a4ft CHAPTER XXVIII. '' Relurir ^^ '" ^^^ ^^'^ '^'°'" '^^ *''■** at June, 1830-Coramander Ross's ••••••..... 257 CHAPTER XXIX. Commander Ross's Narrative . otu . 2IJB CHAPTER XXX. Continuation of th' Journal-Summary of the Month. . . . . 280 CHAPTER XXXI. ^^'^mvseSiid"..'H'''''x'''"' ^r" '""''.'y °' ^■''"^ •■"•■ •»■« Crew, uuder.akt-u by myseu and pirly— Narrative and Relurii. . . . . .^85 iv CONTENTts. CHAPTER XXXII. CHAPTER XXXni. Harbour for the Wi.Uer-Sut^a'/oS.erab ' '^"'"""^ '" """ ' "*'^ ' * • • • CHAPTER XXXIV. ■ t"; of Sil!l;:°"^'' '•'^. ^"-«««°'- «-<' ^- «"" Winter-Su.. ' * » 1 I , , CHAPTER XXXV. CHAPTER XXXVI. Transactions on Board the Shin in Janmrv lum u Month-February: with its Su'm'ar^-Eh!^;;::;!:;? "' """J CHAPTER XXXVll. ^'.'iV onTe Monr'"'"" "-•-'"'^--Account of thi. J„urncy~Ham- CHAPTER XXXVIII. May, 1831— Commander Ross's Journey. • • • , CHAPTER XXXIX. Narrative of Conmander Ross. • * • • ■ t CHAPTER XL. Jounu.1 of May. 1831-A Journey in company ^.i,h the N«,lv.. CHAPTER XLI. '' mS" '" •'"""' '«»'-««'"- Of Commander « ...,„ „„ ^x- CHAPTER XLII. Commander Ross's Narrative— His Im, e North MaKnelir Polr-Obse a Z fr lb;''!:''"'"'''*''*' "'" f''^"''"' "he Plaee, and Deductions from thosl" '"""' '" ""'«'""« *"• CHAPTER XLIII f>i.uari.8 on Che Assignment of the Magnetic Pole CHAPTER \|,|v. TrHnsutions diirinu ihe r..,n:.....j,.,. ... ,,,.,. ,„,, _, ^>(lmra«^y of July. ' '' '"«'— Thi- Jouinai (iimI |hc Page 292 299 306 311 »2» 329 9i6 840 360 3fli4 SfiA •M\> f 4 Proceet of th Journal tempt Harbc mary .'ournal the en The Jou April, 18: and Pr ation June, 18!: Beach- August, 1 Dillicul ber — B; — SI u mil Attempt t( Return I —Land Speciiue. Continualii Fury Be; Muminar; cember The Jounia 'ive 8umi ^ I'll I, IH»:<. Joiifnrys • heseadvj •'"U «rrivi ft: artions Tecfiial a new nif« 292 290 -Sum- 306 ;dingR ' that "tum- 311 9Si) •i-M »35 3!<(> MO Ex- llir llN 350 3hl 2W Uie SW CONTENTS. CHAPTER XLV. Proceedings in July, AupMst, and September iR'ii ,.,;u .i. o of those respective Moi.thg . "^P'^™"^'^' »831, with the Summaries CHAPTER XLVI CHy»PTER XLVII •'The :'^S'o??hrY;a;'''-^'^^•'''-->« «^ November and December, and CHAPTER XLVIII. The Journals of January, February, and March, 1832. CHAPTER XLIX. April, 1832— Commence the operation of carrvina f«-. . « and Provisions, with the viow of Abandon ir"?lT''''' S"'"""' ^^'^''^e". ation of the same work-TheVhipt "bandlilielT f '"''7^''^-^°"""^'- CHAPTER L CHAPTER LI. 'T^^P^Z:J:ZI::^:I^^Z '^ ^--'^e.en.lon and her-BaHIcd in our attrmZTo .lorr.rRT^'""''''''""^ -Summary of September I'^weed-Return towards Fury Bcacli. CHAPTER LII. „ . CHAPTER LIU. t ontinualioii of our Trainiiir. , o .. i;..ry "-'.-KsiiuS::;^,^::-:::;,!" «;;<•'-•. .Ha^-Roum ,„ H..mmary of this M„„th_journa ,n.i T ""'""" '"'' "•<• Winter- •'i"'l'«'r •'°"""" ""'I Nummary of Novnnb.r and Dc- spec- ,,,. , CHAPTER Liv . CHAPTER r,V Apnl,,H33-the Journal ..„„ K„.. ,._,. ; .M.iirnr>fi i.i(,„,ip,j „„ „ ^. ' • •'«•'.> . Iti, <..,„n„i„,„„.„| ,„ ,|,p •hPse advanriuK .loumevs- .K lhr''h ?'"''"'"' ' ""' '"".!.. J , i . •■as aurnce!! so nn.ch n^^\:Z.TiTZ^f::^'"Tf:'^''''''^''''^'^^^ ..I I1.C i.anativp, all Uiosp inaia^N «•;,,. l'*^ l'l-";r.l at the <;oi..inr,„rn....u -ial arra.,gen.,.,us under whicl A 'i«; ?■!'''' "V*^'"^^^ »»«"•'• 'i'm" <'ni.e ship, anear 1,70. ' "■'' ^'" "'•""'• ''>' ""'<"'.« "I' « voyage from that iHlaud ' "•'«;;.;.... Cahot sailed, and .„ado „„ uu.uca..M voyage .„ the ,a,ne quarter ••'«• .hey L,c\ u;:.'hu r i:r :: '!!!::;'^''«- "• "^'-"-.i. a„d «,r.rn. "Spar and ts.vualislaiuls, l>,v Ihcni •"tfolliur willH he strait which iir-j Htr.rovrrfil tilt' sir was railed Aniau, 1! fl " INTRODUCTION. and tlfey .liscol^ere/tU Gulf S L^wr:!^:''"'' Spain .lerived l.er treasure. 15-24 Estcvari Gomez wi.s employed bvSMrfnn.hn _ cessful ; having only reached LabradT ""' '""''^'"' »"" ""^ ""«»^- la42 Mendoza Coronadatripd infiii/i *!,„ to satisfy him re4)ecli"g1ts exincc '^''°'''' '"""" "''^'"^"' ^"'''^^ """"ing lo27 Robert Thome, of Bristol, is said in Trikl.,vr<.r„n .• . ^ the discovery of the North Pole 1 ,.t .hpr» • ^ Collection, to have sailed for 1553 Sir Hugh Willoughby sailed .VomSani' Z f- """^ ,°1 *"? '''''^'• N-Z.nh.a; but, o.f his -.r^^ar; '^^l! ^ ^.;J^-S a north-east passage, which mheobtctnl "^ "' ''"t^'t»'«"t effro,ti„g a 15:6 Martin Frob^her made 1 s Hrs vovSp . "■■>.^'g^'?''« ''»<' '" virvv. Ins name, which was a onTtir rn„- , ^'T''''"',"« '''*' **"" which bears «r old Greenlandr burtirexpcctnirvvl 1'''''' '^7""-''' "'' '^"' ««■" »'»'''''>" while it is now conclude that uSali^frvl!"^'''''''' P'"?*^ *" '"' '"''"««'»"«- ■ K,:;'^^ "'' "'•' ""r"'^* - '•>e;rrr'of''sv;rTt'*^"^ "°"""^ "•"■'^ ••''Vetura;d;fXr''siiThT^^^ appear that he made any a IvTce towaS .t T'^'*'''" "*"'*' •*"» '^ ^°'''' ""' 1578 In this year he made V hird voya" « Sh '"""'''^ of a passage. two brothers of the same name saile^f ',„ '""' unsuccessful. After this. they never returned, nor is trro .„v . • '™''*"' '' n»«h-we8t passage, but 1579 Edward Fenlon sai ed to scove/n nT.h'""' '""''"'•'""8 '•""' '"''t^- Pacific; but he returned wihnJfli .""'"'-*^^»' Pa«»age I'y the way of the 'Zrl^P^^ .0 penetrate through VewfouTir """"*• '"•^""'"^ *° •"-"-'• »he north-west passage, sailed ,o "''nime" ""on threi^emslSoT&^r' '"*^"^'^'^" '"^ «'-" -'-" ""« '- discoveredand nSwhat hasma^'.?^-'' '" rP.'''"""''^ ♦'''••"^•' » "^''^i^ »>« on the western 8hrrMou5rSiS?rp''[v''^^^^^^^ ''^JasrrtrtS^'^f'rS;;^''"'' Perirer-Seaman examined the tudcofeaji. nortil «»''"* between Cumberland island ami the lati- '''\o;;gtrd"at's^^^^^^^^ »•"« navigator made a third examined the coast which hn h?J J , r^ degree of latitude. In this, he places, but made noadvancetwarl thn'.'T'^:''""' «rl"« "^'"«'' '« ""-"^ ««»""• in Vic;. The iLTotS ho™ ''•f?,'"'"'" °f not his name be slijhtly passed over In Sho'b"^ TH "Z"""""'- ^' and it is iBnoranco nrobnlilv r^ii.l .i. i ■ . •"" "°' ^ad many rivals : for the d/bts o'^^- H'';;^X''i;vi;rst;rer'j;^'-''''"''''' "■'"^•' ^«"« ♦» ^"-^ -"" dUed^;Tor;'?u "Srin n'arr «^-l'r---'. -<• - utteny discre- the .ake orih2 o wL J,av live h.,^rn •*'"' ''•"•"""'"gifa' ""t- it is but for which it has Zlv rerervrd ZvT ?^^'^ T"''"'' ••"• "»* "^ <•»« criticisms to have done. "°* ""^ *"'»' " ^as that he asserlea himself »,i u „..;-.LT:- ." ' '^P*"* """' "« 'lincovered an openine. uu which hp ».■>». NorrhSea- whci?nmliwir/^^^ '''' """'"ed into the sea , When rmduig it (o he so wide for 30 or 10 leagues within the strait Ilip purpose ofex- ■ived her treasure, e, but was uiisiio- 1, but saw nothing; to have sailed for a is voyage. I have discovered Lapland, with all oyagps, ill wbiili tithout effecting a lad in \\pw. trait which bears •cut off a portion 1 to be fallacious, ibly nothing inore )unt Warwick, (o ; but it dors nol passage. sful. After this. vest passage, hut eirfate. y the way of tlie wards the objert niards, by whom enetrate throut;li >assage, sailed (o which bears his med a strait, he Desolation, and, eter Sound, and an examined the Id and the lati- itor made a thinl ide. In this, he fi to some other m which he had urse of his three » more than any I indebted. Let lad many rivals : lils to thank him utterly discre- list, it is but for of the criticisms passage to which isserteu himself in. By his own !> which he M.jij. entered into the within (he strait INTRODUCTION. Ill as to make him suppose that it really would afford that passage of whi.h h was ^.njearch. he coi^eived that he had discharged his ZTamlrhertfoS 1591-1596 William Barentz, in comoanv with three n«j.»™ ™..i *u the last of which he and ha7h"8cTew perished h"t^h^« '^ ''"^''^''■' '" directed to the north-east pnssace an,7hP «rv.„ i ♦^^''^^ ^"^age* were all straie. and the north-^^st Ind of No^a Zembla ''" "° '""'''' '"''" ^«'S'"^ ; thpf! a^dXrlrSeSiSa. '^''^ '^^^^ "» '-'-^^ higher ''"'6S,rt'?ji;rriscov?rr"' "'"^ '"° '''''' '''' •'"-^^'^ ">« '-«^ «P ^^ 1000 John Knight sailed to discover that same north-west passace whirh «»» . mrki"„dTtii;'tTmeTnT,°' •''''' ^"^ "avigatingtud'SLti'^'p i!^^ S rol;iy"J;a:Ud Jjr^ k^offi^^^^^^^^^ ZXrneT T ^^''^''T '^^^ ""^ 1007 Henry Hudson's first voyte was ^^^^^^^ mnZof 5f ♦••« way of sjafberg" H'^Trl iS "' ^'""'^"''' '""^ •'•' two other voyages. He therSv^re I .•,pLi"!I''r '''^''' ««''>'' '»aJ;;:ted"t?73.Tofu,''' '"^" •""""'«^' -•» "« •-' ^- H^e. aaer he had '''"" n DaVi?s™:tS.'Thich was ZTs;^?t "^"''t' ''•^'»'' •'«8-« o^atitude made down to that pSd ^ 'PP'"""'' *" *''^ ^"'^ '^at had been 1012 James Hall sailed on Tfourth vova^e for L T^** '^'" T^"" P"»>'i8hed. Hage. He reached RamelsS. in XSa. 5 h T7o7„d u^ T''T?/ r' '"''.Kth? to^sS l: a^rk^'a^Kfla't^t' ^ ?«s^/«" -^"^'^'^ '" mained five months; after whicrcoSni. 'a*'t»«'e of 57", where he re- derable damage, he^eturnStoClaniS*" "''"''''• ^'' »»' without consi- "aid SllTh^L'^re^f^rs r S"'- '"''.H^'"^ «'"«" -^^^ - »-e -'-^ north, examining the coasTof SvKtraraST"'" ^if"'*' " '"" «« ^S' James Lancaster's sound, in at. 74.^0^ The „»n- ^•'i^.^a^ named Sir imperfect, ivhile there is a reference to a IZ "l^a."?" «f '»>'« voyage is very nnd as ftir as I now knoV is'fot lo h« .^ ^^'•'''' '" "•" S'^*"* ''>' Pu'chas. however, which proba% give tffse discotrlVnT''"*' J''^'^ "'e charts they were laid down by Baffin: but as iZJu.^ "'^ '".'""=' ""anner in which length at the end of this In roduc io^ t i. rL„„ i"',^'"'" *° ''•'"""■'' «' "orae tndes, though sufficiently tr "e She laS Xs vtl^.^^^ '" '»"' '""g- former error are of such importance as to hav^ini f •=<'".''«"iuences of the ibm"? *''" •>"««"»" "f ">*« geography *° '""'' '"'' '"« ""» " •'"'ailed criticism w JKS. ""'"' '' "''"'"' '■°" '""^ -"-very of a north-west passage, hnt |"'^;!urSSt£':iJS'°"'" '•'^' '" ♦»"« ^•'. «" ret .cd unsuciossrul. ^' "* "* "*'*''"' """""6 '»> '^"'"'er discoverers ' an.l P! ii ir INTRODUCTION. Ii.iil James sa,lo.l Ironi Hnstol, amf asserto.l that he discovercl (hat now wvK- know, .slan.l to which he gave his nn.nn. Since my own voyai i IsVh (here have l,con .lonhts respecting this " James's island ;" an.l the su hiect is so ro.narka,lo, not less than complicate,!, that I mnst refer it to he 3 of his hUrodnrfon, where I have attempted to elucidate this somewhat tro.hlesome pu-,e of geography, and, as I trust, with som. success. ';:;::■ ;^j"ur ";^:;r"''" ^■^'"^ '" '"^'^ ''*^^" ^'"''--'^•^^^ «' ^""^"-i^-^- '"■*^ri'^'«r''r'''''"'T''/''K\'"''' •■'"'' «»»>er rivers i« the north of Europe votigls. ' ' "^ ''"' '"' •""""•^ '" ChuiThill's collection 'ol 1010 licruarda, a Spaniard, airirms va Zembin and >t in this weari- le speculations, C8, and, as all by land, which tempt to reach , the more so, on his name. James Gierke), npted to disco- red in Augnsi, in latitude 70° impenetrable, ! coast of Asia, ;h islands, and ativcB. pt in the same 70» aS' N, in Captain Cook, for Labrador, ! purpose: he iig any further (.IS (he pliniHc le returned to INTRODUCTION. V KS'J Ak'xaiiilcr Ulaokeii/.ii', aCtcrwni.ls Lii;,.i,i,. i r .... by a land journey, and t 'ic.^ ,o t^'S;zi;rrr'1|-^ '■^•^'•'• journey has been read by every one co ve s^n " m ' '*^^'''.«"«'>-«'i«fii 1700 Mr. Duncan examined Chest ' Hieli^M i i- ^' '^".^"^''' "'"' ^'''^^-'«- in con.sc,,uence, without 'ui^e.sl ' '"" ''''" ™""""-'''' ""'' '"^ ••<^<"™ed, 1815-1818 Lieutenant Kotzchuc, in a vessel mme,! •"- JS:il-l8^2 IMrry, in his secon;; v ,g f S ovSl^hT,'''';'?'^ T"''"''^""'- *'''ivSS;Se; a:ui'i^,nack^:;:i:!;^«:;h!^r^' "''^"""-^ >-— ■• , for this purpose, surveyed the Jn^^t »..;/;„ .''""' «^'l""-«'i"g 'Vom him mi-lHo^ [.!,,,.;, i,,',,.,, thi'rd voj^^'e 1 . ^^^^^ ,'•""'"?, i""' ^'"ckenzic rivers. far as latitude 7i«30' in loSle 9 » W ?' T" * '■*"™ '^''fit"t'« i"let as «» Ins part seems to havrfe do the ,. ■■ sr'''*'- • "'*' '•"** »'' •'"^■^« statemen s «orre,l in every thing ;wl^Sin.apne,,r.'''''"'''''''" "'•" ''« "■''« *^ ''''^^ "-w and false. Hence was . ames's ishn I ''"''/'""^ "as asserted to be incorrect n-arkcd in a forin.V no fon n't^^;' f^.'S^ '^^"'" our charts, as 1 ha^e -c IToperly. (he bay which had so C^n. o i^.T'T ""^•''r:"^""^ "« ^^'^^" •'« *"- ohiiterated : as if this arcat nwl ° m.l" , " •'"'^'^^^ '"•""•• '"« ""'no, was enuali/ "ot thus that men wil be tern, edio 1 r «r," •""*'""« '""' ''""•^^ "«"''"(,'• "is tunes, and their lives, in 'KJv!";::;^;!;:;;:^::;': ':!;;?> .l'-"' ™'"<'"'S .heir L" >'-Om.d or vvillilaid bv any one vilin .„ i.i<. . ..(it ii lamc must b^naficr be -en Of ability and cM^rpl^sc wiiMraw ^.nS'X -l''''" ""'r .?'' " i*""«'^' "'-' ''"«•- ("»' ^^? ?"**' '" *"« westward, and to the eastward maVbTe'sSrd^MKTs.'"" ""' '"' *=""' ^^^" ''^ ^'' ^'^''^ ^'''^' ^^''"^ hJn.'lT-^^T*"'"'"''^" that the question of "a north-west passage," which ™»^i»:. u? Scoresby, a highly gifted and talented navigator, who then com- ™f the Ch..rS„?F'''.^T""'"^ ^''^''^' ''"* "°^ « respectable and useftil raeX Sr Joseph R«nl /''"''' f ^^t^^'- ^^'' g^'ntJeraan, in a well penned letter to seasons i^hp' .';i"'««f »«'» . »>»»» «« great a change had taken place in the bablv".rrivl^^..P°'lK"", *"^ ^^^-'"^ '" **"^ ^""•^ ««&*«"«; *»«'»' "'e time had pro- baoly arrived when the long-agitated problem might he solved. hofi'^.h" ^^"^ "''*' u"° *'.°V''*' ^•nployment on this arduous service, that as he had been the proposer he might share in the glory of the enterprise. Why his services hTvl Sted "rnrs-.^T"' '^"'. J »>«- h- own authorit/forsayingThJ; he would HeJnnThr.JZT^T •'" ''^^J^P'"'"'''" ^hich a gentleman could hold." Wteraots whiPrri'K ^ '^^»"r"^ ""^'^^ "•"" "^ *"''"g *»"« P^n'o'er «f »" the menda i„^ „r h- ^*", """'^ ""''^ *•"" *''^«- ^'^ J^^eph Banks's high recom- wrHf.„?„ r ' ?"•«?»«">♦» the Government was attended to. and a circular was ™h^ K-""^' what officer of the navy had served most among ice. In The Tfore Iwa, TIT^ purchased, and were not only in a great state of forwardness The nilrlr nni *"' ^" S*'"""^'"' *'*T' ''"' ^" 'he junior officers were appointed. n,anlrii.7h in*"'^ '^ "" '"'-^"^ ?"? J^''""' ^here an officer was appointed to com- Thlos he L. tf T"f \'^r^}»' '"''.'"S ''«^" •=°"«""^<» »8 '« the qualities of the lindon I Li r"**""* ', *!"* .^'*'' "^ " ^"^ ""* ♦••« •"'«^^' »"•' when I arrived in w^re totall^nnfiTrn^V" "^''""^^^ *^* '^^ '^^' ^^^ *'''" "« •">"" An^hed), wfrtold that^f f r7 f ,.' '^""^' '•"' "y remonstrances vn. re too late, and I Ts I had lS.L nl^ not choose to accept the command someone else would; and rlLi.t I Driver, it was the only chance I had for promotion. I must here ihZb ^K*"''*'' "•.*' ^ ^•"■"^ "" «"«™« «n 'h- late Admiralty on this account ! Sr a ^; 7nn, / P^'^P^ '?"' ''"P" *° '«" "■■ strengthen, and the temptation of gainng or700 /., was sufficient to turn the scale, and I alone, who had the 2f demoTtS"!'' T. '°°'"''* •"' ""' '''' ^"ff"'"'- The truth of my assertTo. i^ fully demonstrated in the narrative of ray first vf yage, and in the emplovment ^tTr"^',"*^ '^'P' "'■» *"'«"y •lifl'erent class. The 'officers were aTcerSy, rZi?W«h?"'' "»^'.6'''°'«. well qualified, but none had ever wintered, or had "1$ considerable experience among ice; the service was entirely new to them, and for m'!.fc?hl '"^ masters and mates were appointed, whose opinions of course had Znd ♦hnr'*k''"^''V- ''"i V ^"^ ^"'^ "«'«=«" »<■ -"y own selection, I could have IhorlL combined those qiwlities with experience among ice, even more of .^v fLT' "^V T"''' .""'''"'y •'^^^ employed Mr. Scoresby.^ A^ the results ^IZ^it "P«'J'J"'".'>ave been long before the public, and as it has been alluded luent vovZ« V H "'""'r'' ^ T'"^ °"'y '•«'"'"•'* t*"** "' ■'«' well as the sub- n?.f h.^^Kr^^!. ^^'"^ Pf^'^'^l "y '''^'' P'""^*'* how ranch, or rather how entirely w thfuournn^irT"'''' ''"''^".1 «" .^^ "« ^^rovidence, which has wisely put less whirr I h.» !••''" ? "u^ ''"'^'' •""•' ""^ "avigation. Ad.led to the disadvantages Which I have mentioned, there were othera whTrh v^""- i.ov„n,i -.j- -on'-"' ■»•!-••- Se.'ia''f«iwr'^''!"fv.*''^ success of the enterprise, end the disappoinrment created a feeling towards the commander, sgainst which nothing but a conscousness ist it Was !)y my 1 late ekpeditioii nd peninsula or im, and the truej I or a north-west legent's inlet, op ' important and nee and natural 1 and Alexander e or coast fully to the eastward •d Parry, which )as8agc," which \ 1817, revived who then com- uscfiil member )enned letter to n place in the ! time had pro' that as he had hy his services I that he would n could hold." )tcr of ail the 3's high recom- a circular was ig ice. In the of forwardness 'ere appointed. ig the only in- ointed to com' lualities of the in I arrived in half finished), too late, and I se would ; and I must here this account ; I to give them I temptation of who had the ly assertion is ! employment, ! all, certainly, d, or had any them, and for )f course had , I could have :e, even more \s the results I been alluded II as the sub- ' how entirely isely put less lisadvantages 8a))pointment ^oiisc.ousness INTRODUCTION'. that he had always doue his duty, could have supported him • and whirh i, ■ confesses made him anx ous toorovp th»t honr..^!! «!.„ . Vi. ' i"'".y*n'cn lie now a!! the abuse which has been so unspariiLw a^dJp ™1 i n" ^" "^ ""'''■*"•* ''^^"ng his name. The expeditions subrmiPnt^ L T , ™"«S'"*H «nj"8«y, attached to with the view of co"rectinrerror?from wb^Lp^ were closely watched by myself, discovered that the «hipsl"rhSU^e'3o^^^^^^^^^^ "'»'/«'- large; for while they carried proviflions n„iv in #^ '' '^^ '^^^" ^^^ ""> ciws, as a vessel half the sizrdoestXrrrpi^L ^ "arae proportions to their of water, viz., eighteL fLt LS of p^M ?'. ""'^ ''f^'" '"?•" "" increased depth more un^fe, as in the i Snce of the fS' ^h °h'*v "" "«^ g^^ion in ,hem much depth was greater than that of thl pp ;^7' '^"''', ^'"P "^^^ damaged because her hoVe doxv,?and durLg thi proces tClp'''" f '"'^'f ^"'^ *° ^^ ""'»«''«1 a«d whereas the Victory was alaTv laid n„ thp '^'"' r^"'^} '^^^^' ^^^ ^"^ ^'•'^«K««1 ; the tide fell she was ry (?o3£et on J X°„""r''',r"' J'L"^"" «''"•''«' '•"^•^'>«n Like the Fury, she carried two and^ TU! '^'f*^' ^"''. ''^'" '^'"' *"« «*<*?«'«» actually Wierf round it^ha we we%irLipTh?t„„^^^^^ and it was not 4„til we •seamed on in the shape of a joS whiSf «^/ •« ^ which «h.p was fitted out in a mannPr far si'Jrinr ,„''"'' ^""^n "-y myself daily. The .mprovement which had previously heen'^made aml'^hp ''"'' ? ■ "'" ™'"'''"'''» ^^^-^y best quality; and although the feelinewara^tin..* l P''7'.«'»"» w^'-e of the very the lamentable 'ailureof U.e mVchKy /he nr„vp^^ ?"l'i"*'' '" consequence of was ever employed on such a 8orv"ce Thp fnT '"/'^^'''^ ^^^y best vessel that transit was 36 inches, and the theodoSefl^ iTTr,"^ j'"''^"^^^ instruments were lent by the Admiraltv and Tn nn" '« '"^''y •^""«* ' »"'' ««^''»-«« ost, excepting a dipping neeX now ?n thP ^^^•'''"'''"y' «''»'' which were belonging to the Admiralty^two if thVchronnn"'*'"" ""^ ^"P*"'" ^- «• Ross, Perty of Messrs. Parkinson 'aKodsham and T.^p".'',''''' V ''^"' ""« *''« P'o' of these performed well, but four o fhpm !1 ^^? belonged to Mr. Murray : all now Captain J. C. Ross who was second Tn^f* '"'".''["' ^''^ """'P- Commander ".e charge of the transiVrSX h~in/XhP A '''^•''"""S '''^ "•""« »i™« ^^th a fi.xty-six inch telescope of TtloS^ '""'''' *"'' "' «"'» observations must, with the Natural riis.orv tTu 't^"^'"^ *« ""'i •>»' these Pemlix, which wil be published SratPfr^^ fh ^^ *"'"' '^"™ " V^ot an ap- abstracts, which would conS the «nplir^ ?' narrative, in which are only the drawings were made were take^ bv Mr Rollfpf • '' /'l^ ""''•=''"« ''"'"' ^^^^^ ^^e »nd therefore m„,t be true delin'L7io„? tS,P '"Jil""'' k P^^Pftive instrument, redrawn l.v „a:ding and Rowbothrm and Pnt, ' ""'"^'' ""'^ ''»^« ^cen partly whose n;. . ..nrvT . "",^f """"«'?. • HI one (lircctiou or in another, I had never, mvseir Lnid n„v J 1^ ,1 "P"'':'-' • to listen to all, and desirous, rather than o he S ,0 eav pvp^^^^^^ ^" "l'^ Scuee of his own sp.culalions or fancies "'"''"''' '" '^^^'^ ^"^"y °"^ »« the mdui- 'Jeme w i, ^ , ' . ^i.^^' ^ T et the result, though it was n t o f'.il i^ n" r'" *; *'"'^' ""' •=•'•"•• wiN show : liigldy interesting; while it was very til i^i i t^' " P';°''''''n«'ieal opening, is without more temper than the even? iust nJ ^ .'•' '"':"'' '■" ' ''•^""ynay s ,y •nortily ing to lalio.ir hard a.S S Ceh u, Zt '" ""^ "'^ '^onifyin^- U is ever on some anticipated brink of the d cj^erythieh Tho.n f'^ '"^'!' °"f' <« '"^ hose toils, and place th, crown of success on o^rh '*' ","'e'nni' 'usurmount- reality, nearly within reach 071,76^30°^^^^^^^^^ '^"t "ave been, ?„ ever, as if mountains had intervened •" ' ^*' ■"" ^^^ '"''•"" ^it^inrng it.'for sej-^iSi KiS^i^^t^itt^: nSr^ea'SV"^ ^'-' °^ '-" -•"«" place of our investigations, is not only verZarrmv b?,^^'""^''' ^'««l«'ard, at the by which the ength of the land itself S sen" J^tes .^ T^"^ "^"'^''"^ ''^ '"^es, '" opposition They have a test, 3^7 y^vhi^hUeirn .1 -.'"",""."' '''''''''''""•^'^ -"> Probability, of this nature ; aAj thai bar^t 5 taZ . ^ 1. v'd U'r «•' ^'^^ ''""^ '" *^''«''' suited by all. On what terms could «;.,h„. . ! * ' '* / ""«*-ho<'8e, to be con- mium, even umler the ^vrraldfcir^l 7 S U t^^^^ ;:r T„d'e'r%:;;sStrore^"irit^^^;'r^^^ lue' of the entire 5 S ca'rio wo dd° nvStt' .'" r"'!"'""' '"''' '»'»'« ^«- bold ami liberal as they are or nouef I f, '' "." ""* 'ia''<"«., i '"I ""«' undertaken, throwing continue under his new era of risi m 1 ^h Ih'""" "17 T •''""'"«ted. May it so this wouUl have been w^.ued '1 §£, "' lir^ obrained. ' **""• ' """> ''«"««'. would never have been beSy'Ste'd frmt;;s'tr.o;';':,t''7'.,'''V''''"'""- • "-«"-. -y riou, remarks made as S'rgavf'^r ,„\tm 7^.^"^ ""*.' 'T/"- g^Ki; since the conclusions ,vL this aJ^l^r l.ro^'ll^lJ^^^^'ll^'S •o.J^S'^^r^^^.sii^.r^iEK^^^^^^ vigafors, who have already etTecte.l so m ■ . i. ( 1'' l' '" "ritani, could its na- tion and survey of the nortLmshlsoTIme^^l^^^^^^ liable, as a desired object whe i h irfn?h.nl ./ <• "" """'" '""y ••"« ''« » J""'- world owe, nearly S thitl' y t V n^w ' ,Si ^ iri^^'''^^^ """''? •"»' "'« piece of geofe,-aphy. Hurelv also it i« r/„hf i •*> " ' ■ """^ "'"""""•' ■"»'' <'""«"'t want of the^e^an of exertion 1 ,tt' I mil' l''^'^^ spirit should not flag for dormant, or cease to be cul ivate, if.r »«1 f "'"' "M'm'ioncc and science lie and cf occupations i^ich m" yTem nerto^^ T"'"""' can Im, when inducements are held om to the In ""'""'" •'"•'"«''v^'« ^^''''t me.. Where economy is put into the balance auaiiiNt all iliin ii i. _ my ndeed; too inuch as Hnrh f»l.« «;!!..„.- i ' " '* " <^o"l''mpfible econo- has rendered our once iber.l and sDhSliTu '''''':"'" ""' """ "'" «" '"«« «''"■'' .ban it once was. ^^S;n:ntj:SoiiX'::X.ZTf; .;„t"!!'7; ''"''"' »tat the, »., he .,„„ ., r„ .,„'.,, „ h„ I.! L"C ,"""''•' '' ■"'«"""">•» j,;,„e „r ,h.'y.n:i'yr're e"L:;'' ri";: •„:":;„.".:„',"■',""•, ""- h.n.,y also .n ,.int orrigJi.^^'^^d'^irS;:.?:;;;.;;;::!:::-::".:- «;i:i iS;:^*..^;^;;;;; '"' '""-'"" ''•^ «♦•"'*' • "«*« -"..iK".d .„ the t^„„;y;g ;; ^h; I have n„f, in th.sr mlHcrlimuous rrma.l,, ■ ,,,„„„„, „,„ ■• „„,„,.„,„j p,,. irc iN'TROmJCTlON, ^^ sage " given such sketches of ray geographical discoveries as 1 oueht perhans to condense, msome lorm, in th.s Introduction, since >o opportunity for t has offered al, with the preceding Uiscoveries.''mar,ym"Krdl7 uct^^^^^^^ "' "'"^^ It IS impossible, indeed, to do this in words almio o..j .„;.!; /. chart, to a picture of facts'which savL Ln^.trdr and als^nresL^frT *" " what no length or detail of language evercan do I et ihl LT »*^ '" **'® ^^^ ;.at ^art. as it is here given. a^nd,^with its^^i^l^a feJ^^ SSt^t E I be marked as commencing a^'tlTig pS If noi ver„ "'.L'"-^ "'^" discover^ may covered, as not less by the very hort8easo„«^-.V^ I wa« almost eternally !l«, terminating at the place to which IhivJu '''*' '""K'*"''*''*''^''*''"'' Hence it extended th^S this lorSn of^he NEr^Ar""' °' '''"^' ^"'"''""• to give a correct draught of the interkir l-ind »itl w i^-^"''''''" «on»'nent, 60 aa conduce to that geiraliem ?o S^^ ".'" '"''"' ■""""" "'^''«' '"sroverio. "north-west pasfS-haKen nU,chS n " i'"'?!:'''"' "•"*' »' ^''"'^ *» '»"» "f • ofthcNorthern American rnL^iftfrnLR if'''' '"' ' ""'l''«-'i«" "f «he coast line been determined by Sever" S-it^^^l^""'^'' '*T *." ""'""'' ''"y- "« " »«»'» recent as more remote voyages "*'^'«''*""' «'niP'"y«d on this inquiry, under the morti ..onii\t ?evtaVcii:,!;nt"!:S' luiirnerr''""^'"^'"';'"""-"""' ' »•-« -"- the coasts which had t-^cn mLreTx?c„X l '|."xl'i J^^ u'' *^'" ""•"•'• "^ tie, by those who had preceded themTnS„7(vrr„ Tk ' '^ ^^^T" ""'' ^■«'"'"- Btrait, an J^ees Of ^ngitude in those "othern^:;;.S:CSS:;- ™';^£tt:S ..«Hr;:;:s::;,:stir;;;.r.e'::?:.:!:rr'''' ""-- ofneechy, theco.st 'ar from minute, while also not Iw^vs l.nw r"'""'^'' ""'y- ""'' 'ho^e „f course Hack of Krankli ,. Her; an „Vtr aV.t m "1"^ ""?'""''y' t»"""'^" «" P""" dtacovry nf that travellr;. it is ag n laii down t RiE""'': 1^ ' '"'"« '*" ""'' per-rofno river, b.inK ilearne -, sJe , Ur„Jll- '^.V^ '''''^'"''"J"''''' "'''' "''«»"' Cop- "gain, lie the lii^overles J^Va'k^ J^'^Xr iJl "'"l ^'"""•" '" '•"'"♦ '^"■•"■ jar as Point .lahe Krnnklln. Iher" U .' ..."?' „'',''J±- '".""' •."'."P'"" -«*'^*«>-d as '-^He.o.rknowiedgr!!ft;s^;z:;^;rr:iirt^;;;i;;-';i^ ill! *" INTRODUCTION. iweou the Baiikss laiiil of Parrv and Rnndiii i,viiv ti ,. .1 would Ihiis have l.'lt iif.tl.i;i,, l^n r f liave coiniiloled tins eonnexioii, which .■iii«'"s riit hui h n^^^^^^^^^ lorfiiur examination hetvvccM. this point and l!rh- £ iu dc 1 the ifL!;!?v'''^ ""■'''> '"""''»"'='!« «hich leave for all ^y>^rtnre,^ undertaken to correct. """'^"""■^ ""'C' 'ic has made, and which I have here Having (irst determined this, and (hence assmiiin.. .1.^. .i, i- . Iiini in his short passage across the b-.v s cnr!Z *^ . ^' '''^'''''^e estimated by • bore have committed an erC o ai. Ltibin ' "'""" ''" ""' '™ ''°^ ^e eonl.l seen all that land to the r "ol ile il^c is k| ^ZTl e " 7V'f''' "'•■" ''« '-■■"' , ^ve have supposed to have been irsV lisSv itn^- ""' "' ' "^^ '*"''''"> ^^''"*^'' The consequence of this Uecmn^lcr^^^'^Jl "'"" ''''^''' "avigators. and new charts. The strait of the llCci , ."i T i- ' '"".' !"'^l'f «""" "'' our present proves to be the RalTiifs s rai 1 hi. vi ^ or wliile'T. '"'.'' ''r^" "^ ""'"'y' "'"^ "s as lying 'o the .-as.^ard of Prina^ Kr i.d ^^^ ""' ""'' '''''' •'°«" ''^ island, as m. .ed by James. Further that |a. .1 /.^ i "'".'"'" ?"' '" ''^" •''""'■«« which wo iiave traced the eas c coas | nt o vlM **•"'*'«•"•'' "" '^i^ island, o( inlets, «lionWbethe'MhrecislanlsCrn In •. \''".''' "^ ''•''Vf "ot examined the IS to be hnped that future, x Sntil ^ V I- ''l"^"'''''^''^ "'"'«= *< ^roun,ls,ournarrow's tai wil ; ler^ '"' f**^'"'""^- <>" 'he same North Somerset, thus name F rr win"' ."".""' f """'"• ">" "'"■ •'"•'•si "< IViuce Williams land. Tlf,^ op ., sAl sho e ,b ' ni' '" '"' ' "^^^''i''' ««"i» termed Devon, will equally Ih". the « "'J' Tmc o Xn;,^, s Jl^ "''"'' ""'^ '""'" ''^''" ^•'^•'' Let It now be supp„sed that these view" arc i.S 1 , ...a ... „ .. .•onse,,uences which will fol|„u ; as these if I .,?st .V, ' •„"'" ^'''■" '"'•' >'"= •insms which I am here making T|, , ^i, h 1 iii s '^.m .'! I "'".*=»"«'■'" 'he cri- eastsiileofhisbay, which he has nl-..>,n,Lr ""«'""''' "^ mrorrect on the it l."s be..n fonn.l, on he wcs J ';!?''■' "^"I"' '.'ffe'-'ees too far to the eastward, modern navigators at I at nhce wl lb ? r •.•"'"^"••'"t "ilh the observations o oaster soundman., hav'l'^h.i;^;:..::.!;' l^ZS'ori^tJ'u ""''r^^ "^''"- :M:e;!:~,tr^,ir ""•'^^"'- -'^ "-- ^ :s.r'is:;;i;;; a.iri;L^T.:£irTir:;i.!;;;;'3!:S:'ii';rv" "'^«"'^-'- - -y voyagen •i.ni to the vveslcrn portion of the no tZr '2nw '"^In;'';'' " ^'"'"'^' ' ".'"^'""^ P.i//.bng and obscure account of Hern r^ ml ,'. / ";'> <''>"'pare the really 'Aaniiuations, or discoveries, as th(>v I. ve 1; •'••"' "•'■• «el|.inerited ami 'i-'-iii^ii's^risrr^rrs^isrriT;'^;"'^' ""^'•^-^ •'">••'•- ""■ '-"«i<-" I""""''' ""^ '"'"•'• This is "■■-..ly, tliat Jteriiarda had s ' I Vo r I t , ^'"•■'' ''"^' '""'i^l-'Toduction. 'I"re ascculed a land. no. lar frr hn^i 1 T' '" -T^"^" '""Hit"<''-. .'"-I La. n.iiclndcd, on good gr.'.i.nds. s i " n ,1 me t'hl '", ""'"'.''^ '"'•^ ' ^^'"'■'' ' ''^'ve •"^"pposing now that my views o the rvrs^f ''■.''"'''' "l" '■"""""•* "'Hoolhia '■< I'laiM Ihey had Imig ago elic.t,., I , s.'m' """' '"*'' "''^'K''''"-" «i'o cn.re.t, i. "'-•M have jiis; ;;i,^T' " ""■ •*"'•" ^'"'•" "-y -i.-its ti;;:"^!;;;,;:: Thi ■» «"il'j obscure in i(,cir, while th < novTllN orihistrilieiNin. %\f INTRODUCTION. added to (hat obscurity, is such as to render all verbal explanations iiisufllcient that I have coiislnicted a chart, here appended, for the purpose of rendering it more intelligible. It will require some attention, even to consult and understand that chart ; but the following explanation will, I hope, render it intelligible to every reader, and at the same time adeffuate to the appreciation of this piece of geogra- phical criticism. It will be -een that it also serves to illustrate those remarks on Ballln which I have just made ; while having nothing of the same nature to discuss respeciing Bernarda and De Fuca, I must entirely trust to this chart, and the follow ing explanations of it, ice: an.-ition» iiiauRlcieiK, rpose of pendering it iisult and understand t intelligible to every this piece of geogra- Jte those remarks on ime nature to discuss ;hiirt, and the follow EXPLANATION OF SEX AM) TECHNICAL TERMS L'SED IN ICY SEAS. Me J, an insulated n.ounlaiu of ioo. • iuguiHhed. "'"-.d. ...hie H,.,.. I,ul ,|„. extent of which can be dis- A .Iran,, i ,„m|,er ornieoc,„r.>;^f,; ,'''""« ?"'' '""''"6 <■•* olhjr. i».uo^,Sa,:ri;°f.""'"" °' '" « ■ """"» ■"»'*»• « ™a,„. . ,mp ,« i..lfc:c;r ""»*"»•''■'•»»" .». «... .r «., ., .„«„. ,.. jf'.'a5r?iar:,r„.^t:?,s.'r"'"'™"""-. ..iteir-"' -" "•« '■■■-"-.'. ".. ... ,«. ., a.™, a oJ:„ „ Z'ztT' " """^ »".' . rail ri*' ■•■■ ..■ttKJSir'"-'--^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^ 6'yA^ a bay in a floo of ice. » -;• " •»""- 1— « .... .i. ,o„. , ,„ „ „,,^^ ^ W,< ,00 blink. Deculia, u,t:,. ,„--,-. - . ™"'* X W JuS''',T '."•'• "" "' "'" ^'^ '" "'" '"'°«"°" of the xvi EXPLANATION OF SKA AND TECfIN[CAL TRUMS \Vat,r si;/, a dark appearance of the ■nky iiulieatiiig cloar water in tliaf di- reotioii. Ydiing ice, ice which has been fornieil during the day or nigiil. Drift ice, pieces of ice less than (loos of various shapes and sizes. Ilummockij in', ice so uneven and rongli as to he inipassahh; or nearly so on Coot. Fresh-walci- ice, ice formed on a iali'r, holes tliroii-li the side or gunwale to let water out. Jii/ijer mn.tf, a small mast at the stern, with a sail reseiiihling a lug sail, KrrDKj, the body of a w hale after the Iilubher is taken off. * A^'TER reach Ih^ of (he A the plan been con more eas for reaso %vhom Ihi navigable northerly sailing ve favour, V small drat power ca fresh and ■peded : ^ moved, w ijlively eas; iplaces of ! This pr that the p( *rince Kt «nd the qu »age by tl design, wi I tlieief( Sheriff |{o( and spirit I mentary n Os a iiorth- , deemed, b :uMs water ill tli;il ili- # Mi' (ir nearly so I which is (rails ater lo cxlingiiish SECOND VOYAGE. CHAPTER I. the Project of (he Expedition and its Outflt. the plaa of the voyage wbich I am now abo J,„ reh, " ^ ildT ' heen convinced .hat ll,c navigation of (he arcic Tea would n°^ »hon, .„i» navi«l„r,"'fa™itr'whc " I iriZr o'^,,"" "" .avigahe, i. i, cither calm, „,. ,|,e wind i, idvc J S, "„ ■ T northerly winds that this stale of thin™ is owi„,°'. " „ , , power can' also S e ,1^^ t7„ ,", bav"','.?'''',''''™"''''''' "'""• fresh and favourable breL i'S I "'.'^"' "™P' '" » pcdcd: while to aJdlo,n ,1 r,?''"P ,"■""''' he entirely im- ...oved, vvi.;,o,,rwtnd, or I'l'^r ;'^ » :^ »■'';«'■ I'-y -" ho i>nd (he question. the,;fortf as "ra reLtn '^' *"", "'^''■^'^«' •age by this strait, be set at tp / i t /" " "orlli-west pas- deHignf without IkrngsLTrL^^ ""' /r'""''"' '"^ I therefore ln.I .ho c.i x , , .' '" another manner. and spirit f was wHI.r '?'!""!' '''''"^' ^•'^'' ^^^''^ 'iberalily mental rJa 7of 2) 000/ ■ '^n.T' ,"/ ""^ "'"«' '''« P^-^'i^- „f 7/''waia 01 ^0,000/. was still held nnt «n .1... j:..-'. deemed, bv o LT « 1 ''«'^''"«'^ ^'"barking in what might be i «»u, oy otuers, a mere mercantile speculation. IS SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY In 1828, I again submitted my plan to the Admiralty, with some improvements ; but the answer which I received was that government did not intend to send out any more expeditions on this enquiry. I was then persuaded to apply to Mr. Thornton, of Old Swan a well-known London merchant : pointing out to him, as a temp- tation, the value of ihe promised reward, and that of the Fury's stores, which I could not fail to reach. My answer was delayed lor three months ; and, at the end of that time, it was a refusal Soon after, it was with some surprise I heard that a bill had been brought into parliament and passed; of which, while abolish- ing the board of Longitude, the effect also was to repeal that which had held out the above-named reward for the discovery of a north- west passage. Whatever else might be my thoughts on this subject, it had the advantage of at least removing the scruples of Mr. Sheriff Booth- and I accordingly received from him, in the most liberal and dis- interested manner, entire power to provide, on his account, all that 1 deemed necessary for the expedition. After examining various steam ships that were advertised for sale, 1 purchased, at Liverpool, the Victory, which had been once employed as a packet between that port and the Isle of Man, and replaced (he old paddles by the superior ones of Mr. Robertson's construction ; arriving with her in London, on the second of INovember. Here she was put into the hands of Mr. Fearnall, to be raised on, and to be strengthened in the usual manner, which I need not describe. Her original tonnage was 85; but by raising five feet and a hall on her, she became capable of carrying a hundred and lilty tons, including the engine, with the necessary complement of provisions. The engine was made by Braithwaite and Erickson, being a patent contrivance ; and (he paddle wheels were so constructed that (hey could be hoisted out of the water in a minute. There was no Jlue; instead of which, the fires were kept in action by bellows, and It was, of course, a high pressure engine, the boilers of which wore heated by pipes passing through them, in a manner now sulhciently familiar. The stores of provision and fuel were for a thousand days : the former being of the best quality, and containing a proportion ol preserved meats : while all the usual necessaries which experience had taught us to provider for such voyages as this, were supplied in the same liberal manner. With instruments we were well furnished : having every thioK 'hat could hp nonii.. ...«j.i I p -i-^ , ■ " „ •' '' -uai wuw oe .v„..jr Waaicu. btsiaos iwo cnronomelers oi my own, dmiralty, with ived was, that expeditions on , of Old Swan, >m, as a temp- t of the Fury's r was delayed was a refusal, hat a bill had while abolish- )eal that which ery of a north- ject, it had the Sheriff Booth : beral and dis- s account, all advertised for had been once ! of Man, and r. Robertson's the second of , to be raised ich I need not ising five feet hundred and omplement of (son, being a 10 constructed e. There was )n by bellows, ilers of which manner now nd days : the proportion of ch experience vere supplied 5 every thing •s of my own, TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,g (here was one lent by Messrs. Parkinson and Frodsham »nA a were entrusted to us by Mr Murrav F tlVo * •?'• "'^ ^^^^^ of three feet radius, a tCdS^/ „i„'et,^^^^^ telescope by T.,„ey ;,., fa five sextants, t^o alt Uude instr'ur;^' K'e^^^ftiir '"^^ -' ^-^' whi^Td TeLi •: t under me, came from many quarters pvpi, fr^^ m ®^P^/'o» ..w„ rank, .„.e of who^yr^'^aTb 7 al^ tZ As my second in command, I had chosen mv n»„Ko f> mandcrRoss, who had been on every one of thPnL,?' ^°'"- while my former Purser in the Isaber Mr Ti.n f" ''''^^^''^' third; both of these office J u„Sking T^^^^^^^^ slewa,'■«' """i pravteions for 'seveni S . °I'',!?,T_°™ '""-Se », nneVal, i. had been :' P"*vrhar;Mi;r^^^^^^^^^ 20 SECOND VOY/VGE OF DISCOVERY I ■ thougl.t necessary, she might also fish by the way, and further bruig away some of the stores of the Fury ; so as to compensate, to the hberal fitter-out of this expedition, for such additional expense as might be mcurred. '^ A whaler, built of teak, and in every way adapted to such a service, was therefore purchased at Greenock ; by name the John, manned w.th a crew of fifty-four men, and commanded by the master, Coombe, under whom she had formerly sailed in the whale lishery. Her appointed rendezvous was Loch Uyan, and she was under the charge of iVIr. Thorn. The event of this arrangement, which proved a failure, will appear but too soon in the following journal. ° It being also thought expedient to have a secondary vessel of as large a tonnage as our own could conveniently manage, we ob- taincd, by the kindness of the Admiralty, the decked vessel of six- teen tons burden which had accompanied a former expedition mtended for the Pole ; giving her the name of Krusenstern : and we were provided with two boats which had been used by Captain Franklin. ' ^ In March, 1829, 1 addressed letters to the several learned socie- ties, signify mg my intentions, and requesting to know iu what man- ner I could aid them in their several objects of pursuit , receiving trom each such answers as they thought proper. My last application was to the different foreign ambassadors with a request to be considered neutral in case of war ; on which passports were readily granted : while the Treasury issued an order tor the remission of duties on such articles embarked in the vessel as were subject to impost. I may end by saying, that the ship was visited before our de- parture by the Lords of the Admiralty, and several persons of rank and science; and that I had the honour of receiving the best wishes of his present Majesty for the success of my enterprise. CHAPTER 11. Leave (he River-Dotoation at the Fsle of Mai.-Accidont to the Engineer- Landing at Port Logan-Arrival in Loch Rjau-Meotingof the John Tender The 23d of May, 1829, having been at length fixed on for our departure, i atienued at ijie Admiralty, and took my leave : the oflicii not p intern Byam board of Or) Duke Ift tion to what ] while maay our ch conseq The si part ol progre while, placed. Rec( us by t been m Gunnei Eurydii day, an leading custom< good CO ing a \s to the A they we been giv 4 At thi I hisneph I tention c i our boal f thelowe I Mr. and I rived at to stay tl our execi The rivei we weigl through 1 gate und( ay, and fiulher, ) compensate, to ditional expense ipted to such a name the John, timanded by the led in the whale m, and she was s arrangement, in the following ary vessel of as lanage, we ob- d vessel of six- nier expedition jsenstern : and ised by Captain [ learned socie- V iu what man- suif , receiving ambassadors, ar ; on which ssued an order A in the vessel )efore our de- ersons of rank iving the best !ntcrprise. (hfi Engineer- John Tender. ?d on for our ly leave : the TO THE AllCTIC REGIONS. ,, oflicial engagements of Lord Melville and Sir George Cockburn not pernnttmg them to pay a final visit to the ship, Is had bee^ intended. Arnvmg at Woolwich, I found my excellent Sd SiJ Byam Martm, Comptroller of the Navy, and Sir John FrankUn on board : and we were afterwards honoured by the visit of the Duke of Orleans (h,s present Majesty of France), attended by the rthen ) Duke of Chartres and a numerous suite ^ ^ ^ Jlih '"«P«f i«n of the arrangements was a source of gratifica- tion to our yis.tors, my friends were as little satisfied as mSelf ^4?h what had long anticipated, if not to so great an extent -and wbll while a was to be a cause of hourly torment and v x" ion fo utS maay weeks, was at length to lead to the abandonment o one of placed, so as to be an a«'ditional source of delay us hv il!I'^ *'"'' ^''' '"^^"'■'-^ «f th« boats which had been lent "s by thegove-nment, together with a spare forevard whlh b,i leadmg man on two former expeditions and ThnT»?^ , ^^" Mr. and Mrs. FearnaTl hwLZ u ' ^.^'"."'^''y hydrographer, with rived at fC'o ^ ', ^'^^ b*^*^'" '^'^ 'ast to quit us. We &v~ "sta; h^\r:"nd\S at eleven Llock, anrorL^ ourexecrarLchmerv S '•' «' ^f ''''" '^' constructors of The river pTorbeir I «'i 7' '^'T' ^^«''« ^^^^ ^••i««t and proceed- swell, we soon he evils of our iquire the con- is would prove eryapt to fol- red in the Isa- i degree, in the [1 in Shetland, solation to find as any ship in head, with the 1 accompanied ling. At mid- had increased nslern, in con- ng our plunges ; to secure her however, wc 89 again reached smooth water under the Bolthead, where she was effectually secured. The wind continuing in the same quarter, but being more mo- derate, we passed close to the Lizard, cleared the Rundlestone a hltle before daybreak, and hauled up for the Longships, the wind being now directly against us. These last days had been emploved by the engineer in examining the machinery, and it was thus dis- covered that one of the guide wheels of the piston rod on the star- board side was so much worn, as to require a piece to be brazed to It, to restore its thickness, while the connecting keys of the main Shalt were also found to be loose. It was plain that these defects were or ought to have been known to the manufacturer, who had nevertheless omitted to inform us of them, and his concealing his neghgence m not supplying spare keys, or any mode of remedvinK the impending ev.l, of which he must or ought to have been fully aware, was in my opinion most unjustifiable fy.."w if^ °1' ^V ^H '^'^' passed between the Longships and the Wolf rock, and standing to the westward, observed the htitrde at noon in 50<> 24' N. On the 29lh, anoth r observa ion a he same hour gave us 50» 21' N : and as we were nearly !n the same loi^itude, we found that during the last twenty-four hVurs, we h^d lost three miles m beating against a steady foul wind. The engine being however supposed capable of being again used, wc put on the bl thetv^nnh ° ^7'f^!''^'^^«^«'-'itwasrepeatediystopped, ISl ' .1 .■ ' "* ""e" "m™ been expected, Rave wavTerv being 5r43 and In f •'''/ ^° ^^'°'"'" ««'™5 «"'' '^^i^ude 7 degrees. longitude, west, by the chronometer, motTato7hrfirIiT.°T T\^'^' ^''"^ ready, and the weather buteactiftSror:,;^^^^^^^^^^^ obiiKeU to give up our hopes froms-uciie^p^dieni;, wuHir^X: " m «• SECOND VOYAOK OF DIHCOVEIIY allerapls at repairing the evil in our |)reM.nt situation. Indepen- dently of this, the performance of the ongine was most unsatisfac- tory Even w.th a pressure of forly~livo pounds on the inch, we could never obtain more than fifteen Mvokv, in the minute; and it thence followed, that the outer edge of the paddles had no greater velocity than five miles in the hour, (j.at (,f the vessel could not possibly exceed three. The boiler*, also ooiKiniied to leak, thoui-h we had put dung and potatoes in thoin, by Mr. Krickson's direclior>. The men were moreover so fhtig.uul by (ho work required at the extra pump, for the supply of (he boiler, (hat 1 contrived to get it wrought from the lower deck; though even with this alteration, the labour continued too severe to be endured. This however did not include the whole of our nearly fruitless attempts to remedy the evil inllicled ou ii,s by the discreditable con- duct of our engine manufacturers. Finding, further, (hat the con- densing apparatus was defective, inaHmuch an (he air pump ahvavs drew a quantity of water, and the fending pump was insuflicient to supply (he boiler, we disconnected (ho whole apparatus, except the latter, which we proceeded to supply by « rook ; and having led the steam from the eduction pipe, by (uboH and hose to the upper deck, we put the engine in motion, and Hum by n.oans .)f a pressure of lorty-sevcn pounds on the inch, obtained a vidocity of sixteen strokes m the mmute ; being one more than when the condensing apparatus was m action. It was thus shown llmt power had been wasted, partly m this part of (he conlrivaneo, und partly through (he va- cuum pump ; but wl.atever our correction whm, it could have availed us nothing at sea, from the great Iomh of water to which it gave rise In addition to these unproductive corrections, wo next tried the effect of disengaging the great bellown; yet though we saved con- siderable power in this manner, wo found that it did not last, and that the small one was quite incapable of maintaining the reciuisite beat: while it was now also pluii at they were wearing so last as to threaten to become utterly useleHs in no long time. Kverv thing in fact was imperfect; since oven the eyIinderH wore too small to pcrlorm the duties required of them : «o that, if I had not been salis- icd ol It beUire, I was now convinced HmI wo had little to expect Irom the assistance ol an engine whieli, at il,« |,r«(, ouhl, if acting alone, scarcely move our ship (h.ee iiiiloH in the hour, and was therelorc utterly inadequate to aid uh in taking in tow our consort the John, as had been contemplated in planning this expedition : or could not at least have towed her laKlcr than her own boats. In blaming the execution and workmiuiship of (his engine, I must however do justice to the principle, which wan iudi.iou.s, and, under ft canlul execution, might havu rondmi'.l iMm ..,,.,.1.:. r,,..^..., nervjcc (u im on many of the orcni.ionH whirl, ocrurred in^'oiH -f$ ■m lion. Indepen- most unsatisfao- on the inch, we 3 minute; and it I had no greater 'essel could not to leak, thoiigli ison's direction, required at the ntrived to get it 5 alteration, the nearly fruitless ioreditable con- ir, that the con- r pump always s insufficient to iitus, except the having led the llie upper deck, f a pressure ol 'sixteen strokes ising apparatus i been wasted, nough the va- Id have availed ch it gave rise. next tried the we saved con- ] not Inst, and ig the requisite [iring so last as Kvery thing •c too small to not been sa(is- itde to expect ;oul((, il acting lour, and was w our consort nxpedition ; or boats. engine, I uuisl UH, and, under V •■■ r,''— iirred iti our TO THE ARCTIC UEGlONS. ,5 voyag?. The diminutions of weight, and the removal of inconve- nience, caused by the omission of a funnel, constituted a manifest advantage; and a still greater one was the reduced consumption of uel involved m the plan of this newly contrived engine. And while the plan of lifting the paddles out of the water, and thus out of L'nTnf. '!"'"?'/'"• 'T '''^^ suggested, so was the exe^ cutionofthis part of the machinery correcl, .,ven to superfluity since we were enabled to take away the counterpoises and guid^ rods, and thus to diminish both the weight and the trouble. The pieces of timber placed to keep out .he sea, above and below t.c shaft, suicceeded perfectly : but finding that the scuppers on the lower deck would not let out the water from that 1,^ from t Ic pumps, without also letting in U.e sea,' we were obliged toTven^ wareasif^kent it"^ T^'''''^' ''"'^ ""^ ^'''^' ^''' ^'^^h and ^as easily kept clear by one pump; but the engine, I need not nojv say, being perfectly useless, we were compelled to trust to our sails under which we had the mortification (o (ind, not onlv a ead.ly adverse breeze, but that we were beaten by everv vesL^ that we saw, so .11 did we sail upon a wind. Our^assage thus promised to be as tedious as it was irksome, but, on The '>d June, we saw the Small's light, found oiMselves off Viklow on two days- vet losing nnii "f*"' "^'»"- ^e were here detained IVom llo'L t !wL t^^^^^^ ^*" '^'''"'r^ ^'"'^^ '^ *'««^^' « '*^«''n enabled lay ^aupv o'ltf ''■"';: ''•' '''. ""'•« ^'"'^ "'»« As we 1,1,1 I ^1 ' P^ '^^'^' vegetables, and water. tl.erefore purcl Ld ' Mne .n "' '*' I'' '""^*i ""Provement. I -place Cl.o^q. : L eK^l r.^;^^^ "''• ^""" '■''"^-' '" also receiving the vi. . If T^ Hi.nngour voyage; here less in.erc .L liem ll "''^ '""''''' "'"' ^'""■'■^' "" """« "•' eompletedo L V i",'L"^:,^ "-« '-"« ».„„,i.„„ ..11 »vcmng (11(1,0 .Kh, we wailed for n i-banir,. ,j- l^iwiilimorl^'"'''';?'^ '""'' P'"*^" ^'"' " -^''"^ ol-wind on th^ "vv.ng morning; enabling us to weigh our anchor at .ix o'clock, 26 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY With a breeze from the north-east. We stood towards the Calf ol Mann; but, the wind falling light, made little progress, though workmg the engine, as we had attempted to do before, without the condensing apparatus. Yet, even thus, succeeding in obtain- nmg only fifteen strokes in the minute, and being unable to make some mtended repairs while the engine was at work, we had once more to depend on our sails alone, and against a wind which was DOW adverse. On Sunday, 7th, we were off the harbour of Peel, when by taking advantage of the tides, and carrying a press of sail, we made con- siderable progress, and soon saw the Mull of Galloway to wind- ward. Early on Monday morning, the engine being once more ready, such as it was, we let down the lee paddle wheel, keeping the weather one out of water, with the expectation of advantages in which we were not disappointed, Instead of fifteen, we now lound that we could easily make eighteen strokes in the minute, and that we could thus beat to windward as well as any of the vessels in company; even gaining on them, very shortly, as much as they had gained on us before. Thus were we flattered with the hopes of soon reaching Loch llyan ; but an accident, as miserable as it was unforeseen, soon occurred to destroy the pleasure resulting from this new and unex- pected success. We had just tacked close to the Mull of Galloway, alter having made about thirty miles during the night, and were getting fast to windward, with the tide in our favour, when, at ten in the morning, our principal stoker William Hardy, came up from the engine room on the deck, unassisted, and alone, and though without complaint or exclamation, presenting his left arm, shattered, and nearly severed, above the elbow. It appeared on enquiry, tliat his loot had slipped in consequence of the motion of the vessel, while examining a part of the machinery near the piston rod; thus causing him to fall in such a manner as to entangle his arm be- tween the guide wheels and the frame, so that it was crushed, dur- ing the back stroke, in the horrible manner which it now exhi- bited Ihe bone being splintered as well as fractured, and the muscles and skin so bruised and torn that the two parts of the limb scarcely hdd together, there could be no hesitation in determin- ing th;.( It demanded amputation, and as far as my opportunities ol suijiical reading had extended, that no time ought to be lost in perlorming this operation. Unfortunately, our surgeon, Mv. M IJiurmid had not yet joined iis, being on board (ho John, our in- tended consort; so that it becnme my duty to apply to this unh.r tunatc case such knowledge as the sight of nmpulalions in my naval service, added to niv limited i« .|»est.on of our success, and (hat we should not, in the end, ove a day too ate. I therefore expressed my (rust that they mild return to the.r duties, and not proceed in a mode of conduct hich would bring disgrace both on themselves and their native h On this, a pause took place, when, after some interchange of Jgnilicant looks and whisperings bctucen the mates and (he men, tf.e boatswam stepped forward, and after calling on some others id |Dui him observed, that as the season was so far advanced, they tvrro not willing to go without a fresh agreement : a resolution \n Z^^^^TV'^^'' majority of the crew. On inquiring into the nature of (his now demand, I was answered (hat they '5? 3(1 SECOND VOYAGE 07 DISCOVERY would not go, unless I would ensure them, in writing, the same shares as if they had returned with a full ship. It would not have been easy to frame a much more unreasonable request, when sucli a promise wjuld necessarily deprive them of all inducement to exert themselves in fishing. 1 could not hesitate, therefore, in answering to so absurd a proposal, that I would ensure finding them fish in abundance, but that to take them and fill the ship, must be their own business. I was answered, however, that nothing less would satisfy them than an absolute promise o( 200 tons of oil, with a further guarantee, in writing, that they were not tobs detained on the expedition, but„returned home in the usual time. * I now, therefore, began to suspect that the real motive of their present conduct was the fear of being detained beyond the sum- mer ; but I was soon convinced that their fears wore even deeper than this, since it was in vain that I represented to .iiem the egre- gious folly I should commit in taking them out with only six months' provisions, had I intended to keep them out longer, or even did I foresee the possibility of such an event as their deten- tion. The best policy, therefore, now seemed to be that of short- ening the stay of the Victory at Port Logan as much as possible ; while I hoped that when we should join, and they were made to compreher.d the advantages arising from the presence of a sleaiii ship to aid the John in towing, this feeling would subside, and thcj would return to their duties under our agreement. I returned, therefore, to Port Logan without loss of time ; and the remainder of this day, June 9, was employed in landing (lie small boiler, together with the apparatus intended for cutting tlie ice, which, it was now evJent, exceeded the power of the engine to work. We thus got rid of six or seven tons of what was now mere lumber ; replacing it by three tons of water. On the follow- ing day I was visited by my friend. Colonel M'Douall, accompanied by othcr.s relations and friends ; nor did he part with us without a substantial present to furnish our next Christmas dinner, in the * shape of one of the best Gallov.ay cattle from his own estate. Ai six in the evening we cast off from the pier ; and, with the assist- ance of the coastguard, were towed roiuid the point of Logan, under a light air from the south-east. At eight it fell calm, and we were obliged to stop the tide oft' Port Kale, under our kedge ; and though weighing again the following morning at six, with a light breeze from the north-east, we were unable to round Corswall pomt, so that wo were again compelled to slop the tide in the same manner. Tbcao delays allowed us (o examine into the nature ol" llie damage already mentioned as having been indicated in onr boilrrs; |nien ofth( I ;vriting, the same It would not have jqiiest, when such ill inducement to ate, therefore, in Id ensure finding lem and fill the iwered, however, solute promise o( vriting, that they returned home in il motive of their beyond the sum- tvere even deeper to liiem the egre- •ut with only six a out longer, or it as their deten- be th-'it of shorf- luch as possible ; ey were made to sence of a steam subside, and thc} OSS of time ; and )d in landing the (d for cutting the ver of the engine jf what was now . On the follow- all, accompanied t with us without . las dinntr, in the own estate. Al I, with the assist- t of Logan, under ?ll calm, and we our kedge ; and six, with a lighl round Corewall tide in the same 5 nature of the fd in oiir boilers; TO TflE ARCTIC REGIONS. 3, when we found that the failure consisted chiefly in that of the iron eement which had been used in securing some of the joints" while the engmeer had neither been informed of this, nor provided with the materials for replacing it in case of need. The small JjeUows, with the machinery belonging to it, was also In need of a trough repair , as was the large one more partially ; but I must Je excused from dwelling on this endless and provoking subjec |t present, further than to say, that every day Convinced us stiJ more that we must consider ourselves, in future, as dependent on Zke ^'''^'''' ^' '^ '^°"''^ ^' *'"'' good fortune to We now weighed anchor once more at half-past five in the •fternoon, rounaed the point of Corswall, and bore up for Loch Ryan; but, as It fell calm, were obliged to come to anchor until Sowing tide, we ran alongside the John, having taken Mr. Thorn *n board the evening before, on making the Loch iJ^ y^'lr^^ ^f "f "^."^ ^'^"S''*^° °f ^'^^ •^«'^n' and her crew janged on the deck I again went on board. When the hands were •ailed, I explained at considerable length the advantages thev tould obtain, and that I did not entertain an intention olkeeS !ffr.?f T.AA ^ "^T"^ y"*'"- ^"^ ''"'"« ^'^^^ *" ' «aid A^as without Tit mpn nfT i7 *''"' "'"''' ^y r™a'-»'i«g that such cowards Sin .u ^® ^*'" "^^'^ "''^ ^°''^*'y to accompany such gallant fellows as themselves, even to the edge of the ice. Yet as^t was tiredT?n'^' t"" P-- «P-'tiveact of disobedie ce Jesiied Mr Coombe, the master, to order his crew to assist ours in jemoving the coke. This was refused at once by the men who at Jc same time called on those of the Victory to ToL tl7cm .n ^standing up for seamen's rights," as they expressed" " uuhe ippcal, as I expected was received by my own people with ind g! ia Uon ; upon wluch I returned on board,' and after praTsinVS « they we I merited, both for this and all their other good conducT .oposed that we should sail b. ourselves, and leaveTe cowardly phn to her own proceedings. This proposal was received with iordtan;orM"'L''''^"r'"^ tKeUtineers, To hadt- ovm that I could not do without their assistance, and that thev Bight therelore make any terms they pleased. ^ ^ 1 1 \vas still necessary, however, that [ should muster the John's t^iZZ^tT V I ""TV^ y '"^'""«^- '* commenced n K 1 [1 '"^'*'' ^^""•'"'«d, who declared :hat he would not ab.dc by h, agreement, nor go on the voyage, without a!n"l?r« len onheU*"'!r1 .^",\''""^«diato return of .he ship: a sp^eci: 'len 01 the rest, at which I was exceedingly surprised, as he was 32 SECOND VOYAGE OK DISCOVERY the son of the worthy commander of the Larkins whaler, from whom I had lormerly received both kindness and services The answers of (he second mate, Robb, were the same; and it was not difficuh to see that the master was kept in awe by these two men Ihe boatswam and the harpooners being next asked if they would assist m weighmg the anchor, joined in refusing, while some added to their relusal, impertmence ; and this example was followed by the whole crevy, with the exception of the cook, the cooper, and two men, the latter of whom both entered with us afterwards for the expedition. A disgraceful scene of confusion soon followed, in the attempts ot the discontented men to leave the ship; that being opposed bv the master, whether from a wish to conciliate my favour by a pretence, or from real repentance for his conduct, I could not be sure. Be that as it may, he proposed to lower down the boats and tow them on sjiore, that he might deprive the men of the means ol quitting the vessel; but no sooner was this done, than several of Ihem were taken possession of by the mutineers, who at the same lime removed their chests from the ahip, with the most insulting language, attended by the hisses of the Victory's crew and the reproaches of the coastguard, and a crowd of spectators who had collected to witness this scene. It was completed, as far as we cou d see of their proceedings, by their beginning to sell their clothes, to get drunk, and to light, as soon as they were landed- thus proving that their mutinous conduct was but a part of a general character from which we could have expected no good Ihe number which thus left the John in the course of the day amounted to thirty-eight; those who remained, including the master, some officers, and the apprentices, being eleven. In the course of these scuffles two boats had been stove, and one man had fallen overboard; but no lives were lost nor any known injury sustained. *• ^ This drama having thus terminated, including an attempt (o seduce four of the Victory's men by inviting them on board the John to make them drunk, which however failed, it remained for me to make a legal call on the master to perform his contract, and to leave him a written order to sail before the first of July, if he could reman the ship ; failing which, he was to proceed to Greenock and deliver her over to the agent, Mr. Oughterson. It became necessary also for me to write an account of these proceedings to Mr. Booth, to which I added letters on the same subject to Sir Byam Martin, Capimn Beaufort, and the Honourable Hugh Lindsav in case any false reports, injurious to myself and my officers, or to the expedition, should be circulated, after my departure, by I 1***" "• "•»..-i'ir' xrt tilt; virxtxi. June 1 icr niuti. ifcvv weri lad been ■Occupied iiig, all b( ft'om the s and stHilei receiving ilcnance ai J of the pr |«aiin, and ins whaler, from id services. The e ; and it was not >y these two men. ked if they would ivMe some added was followed by the cooper, and IS afterwards for in the attempts being opposed by my favour by a t, I could not be wn ihe boats and en of the means !, than several of who at the same le most insulting s crew and the ctators who had d, as far as we ing to sell their jy were landed ; but a part of a pected no good, jrse of the day, I, including the J eleven. In the ind one man had ly known injury : an attempt to m on board the it remained for is contract, and st of July, if he eed to Greenock son. It became ; proceedings (o D subject to Sir eHugh Lindsay, my officers, or { departure, by i TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. I cannot now, however, transcribe this narrative from ,n„ • nal, w.thout communicating to my readers wrJt only c'meV;:: knovvledge, after my return from this long banishmenL Whatever else It may prove, to those who are but too readv to nmn on that justice which it becomes no mortal tidtlibutreveTn imagination, it served to sadsfv us tbiJ ^vp ho i , ,"""/^' ®ven in defection of our intended tr^iX'^pSL:"" '^ ^ greater evils than those which ultimately Si usMeach n?/"' ,4hat the events, which in our shortsightedne we at 'o T view as evils, are full often intended ts blesSg; " "^' '" It was but in the following vpar thif fl.o i^i j n^aster and officers, and wl, trsame ' j L"' ""'^^'- *^^ ««"^« exceptions, sailed to Baffin's av onTuhIr ' ''""•'"S «"« <>' t»'o causJs which have nev^ro n J ^n r\ "'''' ^"P"'''"^"' ^'^"^ i.oard, at.endedby.hTde tl o theS;.r'.'"^.!^ P'^^^ "" jums,a„cos .I.icl/have no^[^i::^'^t;f^:l^tl ^'" I can understand. Tiie mate with a hnJ. ^-^Pl^'ned, as far as the same time; and hav!ng ne^cT nee be n .7^ T' '''P'"'^^ '' io have perished in the Ipp tZ ''"''*',r '^^'''' *'^' "'"« supposed i>f the Snikesoneer wa afterr H .^' '" ?"' ""'^^'- ^'"^ •^««'«'«"«J «ost of he crew w^o dtwnTd t. r p'" '^a '''!.''"' «««-^^' >^^'«" .Whaler which ^^^^s^a^c den^^^^^^^ '^'"« ^^^ ^^ '^ (■HAPTER III. iLeave I •occupied the best part o . it 11 ?"'"'' ""^ ^'"'"''^'''P- This i..bS all being reT / cL oST";'' ' 'J' ' '"'^' «^ '''' '" '''« ^^^en- froin the south-wes ; h^v or V en h l"'^ 1 T '"f ^ "«''^ ^^'^^^ and s..t(iod respecting roTm 1 ? "" "' '" T ^''""^' «» '^^^^'^^ receiving (he cheers o In, i''"'"^''"'^"^ of our patient Hardy /enance and aid had i„ K;"'/^^^^^^ ^"Z' '"^ '"^"' -'^-^ -- |«f the preceding .L ^^. f''^^ ''''?'^ *«. "« ^^ring the troubles icalm, and at uoonThe Mnlh^ rr'"\"' '^""'^"1' '4'''' «' ^vas f mm ol Cantyre bore north, the Craig of "M m 34 SRCUND VOYAGE OF DISCOVEUV Ailsa bearing east ; wlicn a I'l csli hioezo Irom the soutli-west, willi a lavourable t'ule, carried iis rapiilly (hrougli the north Channel. It was at (lie lirsl moment Ihal we found ourselves seKled and ;*( peace after the disturbances ol'lhc preceding days, that I took th« opportunity oi' expressing to my officers and crew the gratitude I felt for the support which all had afforded me, and of declaring my entire confidence in them through the future voyage, whatever troubles we might be destined to contend with. Assembling them for this purpose, and also thanking them for the conlidence which they had placed in me, it became further my duiy to state to them that the defection of the John must now, as they could not fail to bo sensible, affect their pecuniary interests ; since no prize allowances, under the term of oil money, could now accrue to them, as there could jc no fishery carried on by ourselves alone, for want ol stowage. As it was therefore no less just than necessary for us (o commence under a right mutual understanding on the subject o! wages, I proposed that their pay should be settled according to theii rating, as had been done in the former voyages of discovery. Tiiis was agreed to without hesitation, and with expressions of perfect satisfaction ; the surgeon leaving it to myself to settle the corapen- iiation due to him on this score. While our experience on the voyage to Loch Ryan had itsell convinced me that our crew was deficient in the requisite number, the defection of the John rendered it still more imperious on me to increase our strength. For this purpose, after having taken an Irish labourer from Logan as a fire stoker, to replace the loss ol Hardy, I also enlisted a third man from the John's crew, in addition to the two formerly mentioned; thus giving us an increase of three men, all volunteers, and immediately coalescing in haimony with the remainder of our people. We had no sooner passed the island of Uachlin, than we found a heavy swell setting in from the north-west; the apparent conse- quence of the long seriHr'of gales from that quarter which had re- cently occurred. Thus at least we at first thought: but we wore soon undeceived, since it proved the forerunner of a storm still more severe than any which had yet occurred. It assailed us in a moment, when we were in hopes that we had at length overcome all our difiiculties ; and as the gale continued to increase rapidly, we were obliged to reduce our canvass without delay. The topsail had just been reefed, and there were two seamen on the topgallant yard, furling its sail, when the head of the foremast gave way with a terrible crash. Fortunately, however, the topmast did not fall immediately into the sea, but hung suspended by the rigging in a diagonal position ; thus giving the two men time to escape from their perilous place, and to us, the opportunity of taking steps loi s.-^ving to the r it seem to seoui Havi cudon, tinuing irive to pc; the ifore we i On Tu^ indcr the lonsideraf to which d Irish coast •hortly aft meters, w( /Observed j ibicd (n ad( Itoade little soutli-west, Willi loi'th ("hannel. ves settled and id IS, that I took tlif V the gratitude I I of declaring my oyage, whatever Assembhng them confidence which r to state to them )u]d not fail to be prize allowances, to them, as there one, for want ol 3cessary for us to )n the subject ol iccording to their discovery. This essions of perfect 3ttle the corapen- Rvan had itself •equisite number, iperious on me to having taken nn jplace the loss ol crew, in addition increase of three in hat.iiony with a, than we found apparent consc- ir which had re- ht: but we were of a storm still t assailed us in a length overcome rease rapidly, we ay. The topsail on the topgallaiil st gave way wiili mast did not fall the rigging ii) .'i to escape from ' taking steps lo: TO TUf: ARCTIC REGIONS. U5 s..ymg the sa.l.s and rigging. We found the mast broken so clo.o o the r.ggmg, that it was only held m its place by the splinte s v m a seemed possible to frapp the shrouds and stay^ in such a v.Va to secure it from going overboard. ^ ^ Having determined on this, no time was lost in putting it into evP cution, so as to preserve both the mast and riggin.. witho , din linuingour voyage; while substituting .uch sf Rs we ^o ^ot nve to cany on the crippled mast. INor could any thing exceed he exertions and the enthusiasrr: of our men, whom if it is but jusS to pra.se without exception, so must I especially notice 1 eSve and energe 10 conduct of my nephew. Commander Hoss It v as highly gratifying to me, at this early stage of our career in f\J Ihem all tie true spiri; of seamen,'since' it taugh m? i. t I coulS depend on them in any emergencies ; ready obedience, ch 1 look! and a general etfort m every man to distinguish himself amonri.i J messmates and cqmpanions in this undertaking ^ '"' ^ Before the night had quite closed in, the storm sails were consP quently ah set, and the Kruser.tern was secured hv\Tlirr ^ rope At midnight, the lights on Inst'Sot'^ . ' £ ol the Rinns of Isla nearly east ; showinjr that our ^onuU^t} i «ured in the middle of this channel. The . ale now spp /f jnoderate a little; but it was only to retui„\;i l^^r, Toll/; hough more from the westward ; while the sea was o heaw . ' inus did It continue to bow on Monday vpf„,;( I. ,^ more moderate; during one of ^hTorS'j:!^ ,o Vro '' if topsail yard for a foreyard, setting on L.pS f . r ^^^ foresail: our situation among the lio^bl/l ^^'"' ^''' ' tendering it necessary to set al the a possib c t"^^'"^';!/^«««l' f e were constantly obliged to wear ^leE u^H ?' '"'""^''' f nsequenoe of our having thed ste i ^'''''' '^'^^"^ '" Ob.scrved at noon being ^fj' LTni ^i ' '''''^' ^'"^ '«^'^"^« ^lo^ (n .AA iv - r i § ''' T^ ^- '» the evening we wn.^ en- 3« SECOND VOYAGE OF niSCOVERY i ' , in consequence of the wind having backed to the west ; but in the morning of the 17lh it became northerly, and we again wore. Al seven we saw the Bishops isles, together with Tirey at a great distance to the north-east. The gale had gradually decreased; but the swell continued, and Ihe ship'laboured so much s to prevent us from taking any steps, about our crippled mast. At middight it fell calm; and the swell luaving abated on the 18tli, we contrived to secure the rigging on the foremast head somewhat better. The topmast, which had been broken off above the lid bole, and thus reduced in length, was pointed up; and the heel being secured by a lashing to the lower mast about six feet below the rigging, there was sufficient iengtli remaining to set the topgallant sail as a topsail. ISo sail could how- ever be set on the pole, which was sprung about halfway up. Al noon Malin head was in sight to the south-east, and the observed latitude was 55" 57' 14" IN, the longitude by the chronometer being 7" 40' W. On this day the carpenters were employed in making a trunk to carry the water from the pumps to the scuppers, owing to the circumstances "stated in the account of our passage down the river. It was satisfactory to iind that one pump had been suflicienl to keep the ship clear, during the whole of this gale, though we were obliged to have that one constantly going; but as this laboiii became less imperious as the wind moderated, we were convinced that the principal leak must be somewhere above the water line. On the lOtli the wind was still adverse; and as we had every prospect of a long passage, I began to entertain serious thoughts ol putting in to Loch Svvilly, which was now in view, and which we could just fetch, in order to take in an additional supply of water and provisions, and either to get a new foremast, or to cause the olii one to be stepped on the lower deck, and to procure a new mast head to be fitted on it. With this intention I >-iood to the soulli ward, and at noon we were within 18 miles from the enlrano being in latitude 55° 32', longitude 7" 55' W, with Malin head i sight. A boat now came off which we believed to be a pilot vessel hut it proved to be a Dublin fishing boat, from which we obtainc; a good supply of fresh fish. The wind, which was now variablf died away entirely at i-.m , when we were ten miles from tin entrance of the loch ; but at nine, a fresh breeze unexpecfcillj springing up from the south-south-west, we changed our plan, ami bore up under all sail to continue our voyage. As it was now evident that we had not water and hay enough, in feed both the Imllocks in our possession as far as the edge of tin ice, one was killed. At midnight the breeze \im\ increased, and ilit sea had also . \',',\h hvfv.'iwv:- looked by every one, thai (he fislij Ihivmirofall (hose animals i- TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 39 p a piece of drift vas preserved by else) ; as were af- "Mnria piiffinus) at midnight; and strange schooner s having been at ', and found to bo » work to connect saving the trouble vorking this ma- be repaired and icd. ) all our sails set. the soiUh-west. about the ship, the latter. Oni '' N, and the \on- 's company was ind was now va- jvening, the little otii. We therc- ^ new topmast in f the fragment ol eel about ten feet high (o allow iis was accordingly used as a topsail lan a line bree/e I. We had shdi •w determined t(i s bad reputation, increase our r«- ght trust in case III excellent, even kery for meat dl ot even be forced more, would al i.H remark for llir I been, whatcNti g want, may liini I |l fiia Itik4«l) J tt Ji|'- • *»f^ ••• ^ft ^•-* • ihcbo animals >- confined to the fat; the whole of which also is lodged immediately under the skin, and is chiefly situated on the haunches. The muscles are always free of any oily, or rancid, or (ishv taste; so that nothing more is requisite than to skin the animals, and especiallv on the back, to render them undistinguishable from a land bird". In this way even the cormorant and the puffin, strongtasted as they are, can be cooked in any manner, without the possibility of bemg recognised for seafowl. In fact this is equally true of many land buds ; and in Sweden, where the cock of the wood and the black cock feed on juniper and (ir, especially in winter, they arc olten scarcely eatable, from the flavour of turpentine; while that IS entirely removed by the same mode of trealm3nt, so as to render them a very acceptable game for the table. \ believe, however that I must except the mollemoke (fv/mar p.?ferrl) ; since in this b.r I the (at is so mixed with the muscles that no contrivance can rid ihem ol their detestable flavour. It being daylight soon after three in the morning of the 2!Uh a light air came Irom the eastward, and we >.et all our sails. We had seen an Iceland hawk last night, and now observed two linners running to the north-east. The carpenters were again .el to work on itie skiff, It being !\Ionday, and were also employed in making a Jigger-mast. W e had made but twenty miles in the last twentv- lour hours, being the worst run we had had since quitting the Irihb coast ; but, in the evening, a breeze came from the eastward, which coul.nued during the night, and served to help us on considerably At sunset there wa.s a shower of rain ; after which we saw an iceblink bearing north-north-west, the coast of (ucenland being computed <. IH- about 2i;( mi es off in tha^ direaion. We also'saw ^ I i "m; ".any o the birds called boatswains, besides our former at! IciKlanIs llie shearwaters and moilemokcs Ou li.e ;{()lh we had fresh breezes an,l cloudy weather, xvllh the . vjMKl lrs going !; ;..:!..''.'"*' :"' ''":"• ''"■:".'« "^«'y ««t«h, in Sine weather and -^U..Ary^H^^uou wner. ii i.iew haro, were the next day di.Movered to be the I'H.ducc of (hi ee treenail holes .Ml the larboard side, al uenst 4(1 .SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY lit tit of he engine room. The largest of these, which was about three lee below the water line, was easily slopped, and this gave imme- d.ate rehef to the pump The other two, though less in size, were situated near the iloor-la>ads, so that we could not get at them till an opportunity shonid offer for laying the ship aground : it was however, satislactory to have found out the real nature of these two leaks, winch also, in point of effect, were of little consequence. Hie landbhrik was now very perceptible ; and in the evening wc discerned the land itself, which we conceived to be Cape Farewell 1 lie latitude and longitude of this point are 59" 38' N, and 42" 45 iV.,: Z T *"''"' ''*^ ""^ *'"'^ ^''«t w*' saw '^ w«^'"e 58^ 8', and 44 .iO ; so that presuming these several things to be coi.cct, our distance from it must have been about 31 leagues. During thi. day (he temperature of the air and of the sea fell three degrees • the air being 40 > and the water 47", at sunset. ' On this day we began to keep our regular register of the ther- mometer every two hours, though unfortunately losing one at the very lirst tr/a!, through (lie unliandiness of the mate. The wind %vas Horn the eastward, but (here were evident signs of a change abou to happen be'ore no long time should be past. .)„|y 2.— VVc had completed a fortnight of fair wind, and, with It, our run Iroin the point of our last departure. Loch Swilly, to Cape larewell. loxxards (he evening, as we had foreseen, the wind veered to the northward, and our vessel could no longer lie ler coiirsc. VVe now passed the spot where (he llecia and (iriper in(bt'H.,r r\V '' "*'"""' .'^'•^' after having left Fair islLl on the 19 h ol May ; ,„,d as we had taken our own depardire from Loch .Svviliy on (he 18ih of June, it followed that we had gained eleven days on that expedition, in nearly the same run of 1300 We had served out (o the men, on the 1st ofj.ilv, an allowanc'^ clolhes cal..ulated lor the climate we were now to encounter. 1 hs consisted <> a blue jacket and trousers, a llannel shirt, a com- fortable, a pair ol wa.lmal hose, a pair of llannel drawers, a Welsh wig a pair ol sea boots, ..„d another of carpet boots. The jacket, ol the oH.cers and petty oflicers were slightly distinguished, so that oiireqmpage had;.ltogetli(«r a very iinilonn and ..r.lc.lv apprarauc... Ihese dolhe- , with exception of the boots, were a present to the men; and a reserve set for each was kept in store, in ease of need. .Inly f.-Our new jigger-mast ha.l been got rea.ly on the second (yesterday), (ogeth.-r with two beams at the stern to .support it and theout-ngger; and, after examining our run, we found ,t to he nmely-six m.les but unfortunately on only a south-west course. niUH, on (Ills d.iy, we loun 57" 47, and in .ongauwr vy account, in 5.1 . The tenipcratnre ol (he air at mid- •Mtmk- ;* 1 was about three I this gave imiric- less in size, were 3t get at them till aground : it wat*, il nature of these iitle consequence, in the evening wc )e Cape Farewel!. 8' N, and 42" 45 were 58^ 8', ami be coiicct, our les. During this II three degrees; ister of Ihc ther- hising one at the nale. The wind iigns of a change t. wind, and, with Loch Swilly, to ad foreseen, the lid no longer lie lecla and (iriper g left Fair island 1 departure from t we had gained mc run of 1300 ly, an ailowanc )w to encounter, nel shirt, a com- •awers, a Welsh Dts. Thcjackols guishod, so thai I'lly appearance, a present (o (he in case of need. y on the second o hupporl it and e foinid it lo lie ill-west ciuuse. •">/" 17 , and in i (lie air at nild- TO THE AltCTIC REGIONS. 41 night had been 41", and that of the sea 43". After making a board lo the f^outh-west, we tacked at 8 v. m., and stood all night (o the northward; so that at noon on the next day, we found ourselves mladlude, by observation, 57" 59', and longitude 47" 31' The weather was hazy, and the winds light and variable. CHAPTER IV. taiu rallcl 01.1 Wo,„a„s Hood-ASaUt -mt;.'.;.:;"" «'— -..-Moua- m/'nin^'^Innfl'^' Y7 ■ •■ ', '' '^•'^'^ ^•^''" ^''"-'"S 'he whole •P w ^ H ^^''f-|'"^^^ ^'\ "'P's company was mustered, as je uere I hen pist enlermg Davis's strails, being ofrCapeFareNell The weather hemg cold, a.d the men in thei? warm dresses, we Md in Its holiest period; scarcely even thinking of the contrast J the ;r "^T"'""^;' '^'''' ''^ '"' •'•"'''•'■ ^^I'i^h ^vas passing h ; c ve'edl dZ" f '"' ""'" ' ''-'' ''"" «»" t'-eenairi.oles' piles an hoar, and our rale increased during ihe night so ranidiv S^H:'K;^::n^:.^t "f"^'"' '^ ^r-^ ^^'^ «»-" - aS w 111., iMusenslein, whieh we could not convenienllv tow ilonir * d" ;;£ Z' """'^r''': '"''''y- ^'" "- «'i" i-t r^a^2 s, m ' '"'''""''' '" '"' ^ •''1"^ '''"'•'^^^♦'". "'«>"t •»'i'«y long, es js.a..<. and near it a number of icebergs, bearing nor.h-oast by .July (I.-Tj.e breeze .•onliniiing favourable, wr had a prospocl of ■aku K ourselves a.uends for ihe fo.iner (wo laming ay 1 .ow Li' I,. It I ■''''•;''?■'■ •'^*" •'»• ''' "'"' ^vo found (hat wc #ow no land in J I, "^ ' ^'"" ^'"' "^ '"" ^ '■ « ' ' ««^ 'i'^'« wa. 4-2 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY mi July 7.— The breeze still conlinuetl till three in the afternoon ol this day; and we found by the log, at noon, that we had run l;{S miles since 'he preceding one; but as the haziness of the weather prevented •» from taking any observations for the chronometer, we could not form a more accurate computation. As the latitude, however, which was Gl" 33', gave four miles more of northing on a north-west course, we attributed this increase of westing to a swell from the south-south-east. In consequence of this sw 'il we were obliged, in the evening, to shorten sail, by taking in the mainsail, gafT topsail, and topgallant sail. We however set the latter again at daylight on the next day; replacing the mainsail also by the stud- ding sails on eaJ^x side. At nine this morning we had altered the course to north-wcsl half north, true meridian ; iiaving found this to be north-east hy north according to our compasses, which, including the variation and the deviation, differed, on this course, four points and a hall from the true bearings. Some shearwaters were still seen, and the mollemokes incrca.sed in numbers, as did the pieces of floating drill wood. After three, this fair breeze gradually fell off; and at mid night we were not making more than two miles and a half in llio hour, with the weather still somewhat hazy. July 8.— On the whole of this day there were light airs witli intervals of calm, and with cat's paws coming gradually to tlio north-east. We accordingly wore, and stood to the eastward. A little before noon we picked up a tree which measured twenty-one feet in length and three feet in circumference near the root. Ii was without branches or bark, and proved to be larch, perfeclK sound. The root fortunately contained a natural knee exacllv suited to one of our wants, which was that of a boat's davit: and il was accordingly converted into one, as was a part of the other end; so that with these two, when completed, we found that we should be enabled to carry another boat over tlie quarter. Some shear waler.s were shot, and a small lish taken ; a drawing of which wib made for our collection of natural history, while the specimen it^ell was preserved in spirit of wine. At midnight the temperature dl the air was 30°, and that of the water 12". On the Jlth, having observed for (he latitude, we found it to Ik Vi'2' 3(J , and the longitude by the chronomeler 5 I" 3 1 . The wImiIi day was passed between light airs anu calms; but as the swell sci from the southward, we contrived to keep steerage way on the slii|) A quantity of shearwaters and boatswains were shot byCouunandei Hess, who kepi the best for specimens, the rest being' added to our usual conuMons: and we also found that a gjiiuu»t pie was prefeiK I to llir best piece of corned beef which wt- ronjil pmiliicf, ronlirn ing Ihe remark I have already made. l>lany n'lorc shearwater TO THE ARCTIC KE(iION«. 43 II the aftct'iiuun ol it we had run I ;{S ess of the weather the chronometer, . As the latitude, ore of northing on f westing to a swell his sw 'il we werr ig in the mainsail, ict the latter again il also by tiie stud- irse to nortli-wesi ► be north-east l)y ding the variation • points and a hall still seen, and the ces of floating drill I off; and at mid- I and a half in ilio re light airs wilii gradually to the the eastward. A isurcd twonty-oiic near the roo(. Ii be larch, porfeclK ural knee exarilv oat's davif: and ii I of the other oiid; nd that we should 5r. Some shcii' ling of which \v.l^ he specimen ilM'll lie lempcratiiro u\ we found it lo In "M. ThowlMil, lit us the swell sti c way on the hhip. lol byCoiiiinandei icing added to our pic was |H'efcriT'i l>rUi|llij(>. ijiillf!! !!> iiorc slicurwati'i> were afterwards seen, so that 1 might safely call their numbers im- mense. Two (inners also camo alongside; and one of th«m was struck in the shoulder by a musket ball, without however being killed, as far as we could discover. July 10.— This day was perfectly calm during the whole twenty- four hours, with the exception of some cat's paws that lasted only a few minutes. The ship's head was generally to the uorth and north-east, and I now had occasion lo regret that the engine was not so ready for use as I had anticipated a few days before. The gear of the forcing pump had taken much more time than was expected, though the engineers and armourer had been steadily at work. The carpenters, however, !« liswi'st U'A\iir *{*"- afid the higiient l.r: whence we toiuludcd that we had again ap- Ma 41 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY proached some ice. At eight in the evening we fell into a stron- rippling current, which made the ship very uneasy, and seemed to indicate the set of a stream out of Davis's Strait. The temperature ol the water was then 39" and 40", but it afterwards rose to 41", though we were nearest to the eastern land, and, as we computed, not more than fifty miles from it, July 1 3.— We had stood first to the eastward last night, and then to the westward after midnight, the wind gradually decreasing; and on this day it fell calm at noon. We had tacked at three in the morning, when we found ourselves in the ripple, and as it cleared up about ten, we concluded that we were within fifteen leagues of the land near the exit of Baal's river; discovering then also the lirst iceberg which we had seen since entering the straits. We could not help noticing it as a remarkable coincidence, if it was no more, that this berg was nearly in the same latitude and longitude as the second one which we had seen from the Isabella eleven years before. It is indeed not to be conceived that it could be the same; yet, having in my possession a correct drawing of that one, it was even more remarkable that the resemblance between the forms ol the two should have been so great as we found it. We sent a boat to it for the purpose of procuring ice which might furnish us with water, and she returned in three hours with two tons on board. The oflicei- reported that he saw several whales, and many seals near this iceberg, which was covered with birds; and he found no dilliculty in landing. The brig which we had seen on Sunday morning was also in sight, nine miles to the north of us; and when the breeze sprung up about five, we saw her steer for Haal's river, whence we concluded that she was a Danish vessel. We saw more birds to-day, including dovekies, than we remem- bered to have ever seen together before, as well as a quantity ol seaweed, from which many small fishes and oilier marine animals were procured, and preserved »>j ' inmander Hoss. Of these, I may say once for all, that they nave been reserved for the Appendi\ on Natural History which this ofTicer has furnished; since descrip- tions of them would not only interrupt the narrative of our pro- ceedings, L'lt be of less distinctness and utilify to the reader, than as (hey now stand in a regular approximation. Another large piece of useful American cedar was also picked np to-day; and (he carpenters were employed in lidiug an oak mast- head (o (he foremast, (hat we might l)e ready to fix it on at the lirsi convenient <)ppor(uui(y. The engineer having also finished Ins work, corisis(ing in (he repairs and iuiprovemenis of (he engine which we had planned, it was tried so far as to ascertain how (he feeding pump vould ac(, and whether (he l)Oilcr could now be (rus(- 1 lie {oinif-r wiij^ ionuil, or ihoiighi to iiave bet ii, a suctcsslui ..,1 I iM ! fell into a strong jy, and seemed to The temperature /ards rose to 41 ", as we computed, d last night, and lually decreasing; ced at three in the and as it c'eared lifteen leagues of ]g then also the the straits. We ence, if it was no ide and longitude bella eleven years )uld be the same; f that one, it was een the forms o! luring ice which Ihree hours witli .V several whales, ered with birds; ? which wo ha(l liles to the north we saw her steer a Danish vessel, lian we remem- as a quantity ol' marine animals js. Of these, 1 "or the Appendix i ; since descrip- ive of our pro- be reader, than IS also picked up ig an oak mast- it on at the first Iso finished his i of (he engine certain iiow (he Id now be (rust- en, a siiftchslui TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. '15 pi«ce of work ; but though the principal leak of the latter was stop- ped, the small one at the foremost end was not cured. The engine was not, however, set going, because the springing up of a breeze rendered it unnecessary. On the same evening we were abreast of Baal's river, and shaped ©ur course to the north-north-west, that we might gain a little more offing, as the wind was to the south-west. The weather remained «loudy all day ; and, judging by the land, we thought ourselves car- ried by a current to the northward. This indeed was made mani- fest by our observations, which gave us d'^" 30' of latitude, or a- feout nine miles mo:e than the latitude by account. The breeze %cnt on increasing, so that at midnight we were going three knots. On Tuesday, 14th, at daylight, whicli was now about two o'clock Ml the morning, the weather was foggy, and continued so till eight, tvhen it cleared away ; and the breeze at the same time began to fall off, so as to subside into a calm at six in the evening. IVevertheless, we were able to keep steerage way on the s^hip, as there was a swell from the southward. We had a good observation at noon, by which w'e found ourselves in latitude 01" 4S' , and in longitude 53" 45'. We obtained on this day a Hue view of the remarkable moun- tain Sukkertop (the sugar loaf), of which I was enabled to make fiR'o drawings; the one bearing east-north-east and the other due «ist. It appeared to be about twelve leagues distant, and far over- topped all the surrounding mountains. The carpenters continued to be employed upon the new mast- head; and as we had replenished our water, we served out an al- lowance for washing, together with a quantity of soap to each man Some ram fell about six in the evening, and the swell increased so much as to be very troublesome; while a breeze also sprung up from the north-east by north, our,'true course being north by west. '^t nme it cleared away, when wo had another view of the magnifi- cent mountains near Cockin Sound, and saw the land as high as p^ueen Anne's Capo. Hut one iceb(!rg was seen to-dav, and that. I very small one ; and we continued to meet with birds, seaweed, #n(l drift wood. During the calm, the ship's head being to (he eastward, we found that we had nearcd the land consideral)ly but jKer the wind was up, we found ourselves within about twelve leagnes (,f it, the Kin of Wael bearing cast by north, and Sukkertop •outh-east by east-half-east. ' July 15.— Tlie swell continued all night, and this prevented us Irom using the engine, which, as far as our yesterday's trial had gone, seemed at last .eady for use. The ice which we had seen in he morning had been left behimi, and wo saw no more this dav, but, as usual. Unsspd in.Tnv hii.lc n„.l i^^.....-. ,«..:r- I !- I * I clear at noon we succeeded in getting an observation, by which wo •10 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERV round ourselves in latitude Gr>° 20, and longitude 54" 20'. In iJn. morning, at eight, the temperature of the air and water were at \K and it rose to 49° at noon, in the evening, the wind advanced ii! the north-west; and, at half-past ten, we tacked and stood to tlif eastward. We, on this day, crossed the track of the Isabella on the 30lh of June, 1818, and were as far north as the Hecia and Griper had been on the 2d of July, 1824 ; and in the evening had j line view of the striking range of mountains on this coast; Queen Anne's Cape bearing east-north-east at ten o'clock, and the lam! being seen to a great distance. The carpenters had been fiilh employed the whole of the day in forwarding their work. July 16.— The wind was against us all this day, and attende.: by so much swell that we could neither attempt to employ lln engine nor make any progress by our sails. At noon we were in latitude (35" 34', and in longitude, by the chronometer, 55° 21 We stood to the eastward till four in the morning, and found «)urselves nine leagues from the land ; standing to the westwan after this till four in the afternoon, when we again wore. Wt soon lost sight of the land, in consequence of a fog which canio on about six; but it cleared away about ten, after which we saw no more land, nor any ice. The temperature both of the air an, water was 40°. We saw a few loons and shearwaters; but \vt believed that we had yesterday eaten the last allowance we should get of the latter, as we had always found that they ceased to he quent the sea further north. July 17. — The wind was more moderate this day, and tin swell so much abated that we set the lee paddle of the engine li work. W^e found that it made seventeen revolutions in (In minute, and assisted us very much in plying to windward, h fact we could now keep the ship one point nearer the wind, will a velocity also of three and a half miles, instead of two and a hall and without making more than the half of our former leeway In the morning watch, a good many whales and seals were seen with numerous llocks of shearwaters asleep on the surface of \h .sea. Land was also seen a little to the northward of that whicli we had noted yesterday, yet only for a few minutes between seven and eight o'clock; while a fog that attended us cleared away. .\\ eleven in the morning, the engine not having been at work mon than three hours, one of the boilers began to leak. The fire was therefore immediately put out in it, when the other was found not to have suflicieni power to keep the wheel going. Kven thing was therefore slopped, and the fires extinguished, that wi might endeavour once more to get the damage repaired. (»ii rxnmination. it vv.as found (Imi ilm lanmi^i >nA lU^ i»..t... i ..:.., • ." '.' ' — n — * ' ''*' a^t Tj'.Tairi yiy^~ which are placed within the boiler, had been pressed Hat, aii no bottom current, I the north, en the land as very re- on it, quite e mountain among the )int in our in the ra- the visibJe as we bad land, that the temp- ned not to ut, would r some of TO THE ARCTH! KE(JIO\S. 51 TH AFTER V. Visit of the Dani.sli Governnr nF »i./» c„.ji ■4 July 23 We continued this morning in exn c< ',<>„ ,f . wh.ch made her appearance about one olio '2 "' ^°"'' ^t"?";:* of the island with thel^Jn^Bd' '"?'!; -^"^ ^« signify that she had discovered a harbour wffr 'r ^ 'l'"^' *^ for It under all sail, as the wini h»T "^^ ^^^''^fore bore up approaching the higuLt w ttd'itrarrcl"t"'l\^' was a strong breeze still in the offin J 117 f . ' *''*'"»'» ^^^ere niander Ross came on bird Hiflpni f ^^ l^° '^ ^'^'^'^ Com- vered a cove at the east side of S« hlZ T' .*''"* ^« ^^'^ <'i«co- perfectly safe, and ^itf^t^^^^^^^^ to be bemg at the same time so small th«MA,Vuf "®'" ^'«'» water; the ship both head and stern Admlrtf, ^u ""'"'''''y *« '"«0'' another fathom, there wmild be sS Z, K r''' ^^*"'' ""'^^^t ebb -ate a draught as ou., s^tKl^^d t^t^t iH^ hand of the island. Se appeared t^hp' '""i'f ^« '^' '"'Sht ever, on each side of it; a JsSni on Ar''' ''^'""•''' *^«w- island, we found it to he about two K. a i' "^^ aPP''cached the was between this and the^trntL'dtaToJnnt^ 'l '.T''- '' lay, which was thus defended from ?he n'^h Hv ,1" *^ ^.^'^^"^ and the islands near, as, to the Touth T ^ ^^* "«'" 'a^^^ olhers. situated at viriosdisiancesThr. '"'''"'* ^^ "'^"y round, and we entered from the soith 1 * ?°" *°^«*^ "« each bow and quarter. ^outh^ mooring by ropes from It was during this attempt that we first «»«, iU had quitted the coast of Scotland In ho 14th nA '"°°"r«« ^e sequence was, that we had been nnnhL / '^•^""^- ^^'^ con- observation during the whole passaL It ^'''"''' " ^'"«'« '""ar i^:2n^--?«p?^of!^^ 52 SECOND VOYAGE OF DIHCOVEHY all their dislinclness ihroiigli an aUTi()H|>lioic which seemed as ifit hivl never known a vapour. At five o'clock the tide had ohhed eonsiderably, so as to leave U3 only twelve feet water. We found no inhabitants on the beacon island ; but the presence of three KNiiuimaiix dogs assured us that \ve were not far from some seitlemenl. Ascending to the beacon, 1 gamed a view of two mdgniHcent inlets, surroimded by mountains ol a very striking character; far more striking now tlian they had •ippearcd on entering the harbour, m (ho view which I obtained was more extensive. Being entirely clear of snow, while broken m(() precipices, and shooting npwarcN (heir sharp and rugged peaks, their aspect was very dilleient imleetli to the north fight passage, or >od fortune than ower of making, i-mer experience given us reason lively manner of nth before, and I. Kvery prac- whicli was not verdure ; while u riant blossom, ed to find what and cold snow. I had given the /ell as OL'T'selves I denomination It tiitu.ition was he long absence id rocks which, I lay all ar«)und It*. Nor was it le, the especial varnis, of iuom- n greater than ics. TO THE ARCTIC UEGIONS. 53 1 eturn.ng on board at eight o'clock, 1 found that the water had continued to fall, so that we had but a few inches between our keel and he ground. There were in fact but eight feet six inch" at low water though ,t was somewhat deeper astern : but as there was no swell, nor any prospect of one,, we were satisfied to rcma u as we were. n-mum The approach of any boat f.om the inlet could not here be sec, Irmn tne pos.t.on of the island; so that we were taken by su r , •' j" the arrival of a Danish Hag, shortly after I had returned u board accompanied by a multitude of canoes. They we^^edon' side almost as soon as they were seen ; and we weL p ea j ^^ fmd Iha there were two Europeans in the crowd, whid at fhl seme, to consist of Esquimaux alone; being dies ed Tthe i u clothmg of he natives. They introduced each ot "ei as (lu governor and clergyman of the district of Holsleinborg s^v that they had come to know who we were, and whether ;« we : .n want ol any assistance. They hao not seen us ente b'l tT d ci-eek "'''''' '"''' "'' '^''P '•^'^ «^«'' »>-'«» «een il. this We found this governor, named Kail, a person of verv nreno. -.• of i.einy:i'^i: uL^S';:?^sn£r^^^")^i'^ de.-gyman, named Kijer, seemed to bJabou tl ^i o^uTe ^^j,,/, ';: uanners and language of a well educated and inSl t^ iKul^been resident during the same O^J^^'^Z^^^, iZ Is; r 1 Th,-: ,,;:r w*" ", ''""•; r ''""r "» >-" »l.« ij,. I. II , "*" l">\ver. Wc learned i-oiii iheiii thai H"- ?l .1 al .':,;;':'"'''■; '''*"""^^"'' '?-''• '--Kcmse- H.. ...... -,'"'' '!''V"'K ''"■ •«"«aiii.lcr under the u/u........ V ' ""urmcd (hem of tho nature and objJd ol our enlcip..se. and »4 SECOND VOYAGE OF Dlf^COVERY mn . requefeled permission to purchase such provisions and stores with spars or whatever els3 might be needful and suitable to us, of those which reinaiced under his custody from the wreck. To this he readily consented; assuring Fis that he took much interest in the suc- cess of our undertaking, and also repeating his offer of furnishing us from his own stores with whatever else we might want. It occur- red to me immediately, among other things, that the mizen mast ol the Rookwood, which had once been the Hattler sloop of war must be about the size oJ our foremast, and that by taking it instead ot tongumg our own, weehould not only save much time, but geta lar more secure and suitable mast. In reality, this mast was already proved to have been two feet too'short ; and the projected repair to which we had been driven, would increase this deficiency to three lect and a half. The governor having, on my announcing my consequent desire to see the wreck, kindly offered tpa a passage in his boat, I embarked together with Commander Ross, that we might inspect the mast in question and determine on our proceedings respecting it. In the way, these gentlemen, who spoke English, communicated to us the names of the several islands, rocks, mountains, and inlets which we saw in passing, as I shall have occasion to notice in the place appro- priated to thos? circumstances. To this useful information was add- ed the most agreeable news which we had heard since wo had left home confirming what we had already been led to believe from the absence of ice, and the more gratifying that it still more completely justified us in having determined to prosecute our expedition this summer, notwithstanding all the untoward circumstances by which it had been obstructed and delaytid. We were assured that the present season was th*^ mildest which had been known during the memory of the oldest person in this settlement, and that the preceding one had also been unusually mild. With this, they declared their conviction, that if ever the north-west passage was discovered, it would be in the present summer. In detail, they stated that there >ero only three days dur- ing all the latter part ol ,e preceding year, in which the harbour might not have been crossed by a boat, that the thermometer had had only been for one day as low as minus 18", and that since that time II had never stood beneath U ' below zero |(both) of Reaumi r. This was a great contrast to (he five preceding 'years, during which It had oHon, and for a considerable time, been as low as 32" below zero of the same scale. They also added, that although there had been a good deal of snow during the winter, there had been ver\ lUlle frost in comparison with the usual course of things; ever\ iiarfictilar rotifSi'inin r ilm »<■•><.. .^i ...„«i.i:__ ecn sent home to f^^ repaired The Church is capable of containing two hunred per- Hons, and is well attended; the sermon and prayers boing in tl •.«q".m«..x and in the Danish language on tllc a tomato Sundavi •nood..ots«yjh«t,he Danish form is the Lutheran ; nor noJd i ;n"«l (lie praise so well deserved, and so often l,estowed tUr ■-.:::.:: ,.ov,.rnrHeul !,»• Ihoir aitentum to the spiritual welfare ol "'<• (..cenl«ndcr«; and as little need I notice the well-known :><> SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY success, which has attended the labours of the worthy clerirvmcn who have undertaken this office, under such a banishment and such privations. The storehouse at the landing-place is the receptacle of all heavy articles; and at the other, higher up, some of the people reside Ihere is no view of the sea from the town, the harbour alone being visible. It is defended from the east by high rocks, and also from the west by others, so as to be well sheltered; while it is covered Tl!t '?l'/hir^*'"^K^'.f S'^^'^'' ^''^'*"««' ^y the h:.ge mountain called the Old Woman's Hood, and has also a prospect of a range ol lolly hills fronting the harbour. It is thus a really interestin!', and almost a romantic spot, being nevertheless scarcely endmable as a residence, were even a tolerable portion of the year such as it chanced to be at our visit. From an eminence a little way beyond it, we obtained a line view of the sea and its countless islands; form- ing an interesting maritime landscape, out of the power of our pen- cils at least, if not of better one's than ours; and, from the same point, we could also discern our own floating home, lying snug in her .(tie cove. The Esquimaux name of this town is Tiriemalc l^iKffif, meaning, as we understood, the " foxes' holes." Proceeding, after our return, to examine the Hookwood, I soon lound that some of her stores would be a valuable acquisition to us so that besides the pleasures which we were here enjoying, in i\w only day of comfort which we had met with since our departun rom Woolwich, we had also fallen on what was as good, to us at least, considering our few wants, as an English dockyard. Tlu m.zen mast suited us as well as if it had been made on purpose for our loremast; and the provisions which remained unsold, weir suflicient to make our own up again, to our ncci'ful complement t thus gave great satisfaction to our hospitable friends to find thai I should lose no time in bringing the Victory into their harbour; and having promised to dine with the Governor on Uie following day, we took one of his pilots on board in his boat. On my return, I found that Mr. Thom, whom I had lell on board to superintend the necessary operations, had already got out thc loremast, and was in (he act of doing the same for the mizcn mast. Ihese things being (iHishcd, I prepared to run up the harbour, by hoisting a topsail upon (he sheers which had been set up, the wind being fortunately <|iii(e (air, and by the aid of warps; under which we .soon roache.I the (ouii, and made fast to rings on the rocks, l.v "ueans ol whah' lines; our situation being within a hundred yard's Iroiii the shore on the cast side. We iimiudiat.-ly pro,;«'ede.l to get the luizcn mast out of llic KooKwodd ; aiul about hauled aloiigsido ol t| t. ttiu name cvcuUjk, m* ict ory W.ii ic wreck, ii being then hijjli water. Tin e worthy clergymen banishment and sucli jceptacle of all heavy af the people reside. harbour alone being [•ocks, and also from ; while it is covered y the huge mountain prospeci of a range a really interesting, 5 scarcely endi!)ablt' f the year such as i( a little way beyond [itless islands ; forni- e power of our pen- md, from the same liome, lying snug in town is TiricniuL s' holes." 5 Rookwood, I soon Ic acquisition to us; ere enjoying, in the since our departure as as good, to us al >h dockyard. TIk ade on purpose for lined unsold, were !C('ful complement, friends to find that Pto their harbour; »r on Uie followin;,' •at. I had leil on board ilrcady got out tiic or the mizcn innst, up the harbour, by 'Xi set up, the wind arps ; under whidi gs OH the rocks, Ity n a hundred yards n mast out of iIk ^, iiu; Viciory w.i. iiiijii water. Till' TO THK ARCTIC REGIONS. 57 mast was soon hoisted out by means of our own mainmast; when we again hauled to our moorings, and the carpenters were set to work; the men bemg sent to take their four hours' rest at one ©clock. On the 24th they were employed in getting up the fore- mast and foretopmast; and Mr. Thorn went on shore to take an account of the provisions, which were shipped off in the Krusen- itein, together with some other stores that we had selected i In the meantime, I proceeded, in company with Commander Ross and the Surgeon, to an eminence on the shore near to the •h>p, which commanded a complete view of the rocks, shoals, and fiitrance of his place ; wnen sights were taken for the chronometers together with a mer.dmn altitude of the sun by the artificial hori^ ton. A series of ang es wore further observed, for the purpose of ieterminmg the positions of several places in ;iew; buf under an annoyance from the mosquhoes, which far exceeded the persecution if the former day, and under which my nephew suffered in a mos tSlit'ofr"" f^-- ^^ '' '^ ''•"' "^"«'« A««'bi Tor hi« eteTna ^1 c ?n the eVl ;'"^' h..M.n'.A /rom these pestilent animals, »l..ch, in these climates, render every moment a tormeM, so as to TtS : r t T "'?"' T' ""''' '^ ^''""^^ - irnpossiLleto a I It of ^^21 A T ''\ '^" «''P'"'''"«nt' not of a whole summer, I tni fl / '" ^^^*'''''"' *"• *'^*'" ''«'«^ in Greenland ; and I an irT}u 'f/*;'y ^" ""'^"'""■y ''•« 'iceumulated complaints of al ^ tra e lersthat ever annoyed their readers with the records of wW lliey had endured from this most incredible, and never to be for- f otten, generation of worse than vipers ^.i!armTof"nI^f ''7 "^'^'''^ ""'' «»>-^«'vations, in despite of us army of ruthless devils, we proceeds to dine with the Governor • reeling also the clergyman and his amiable wife, and Icing regXd .th fare and wines that would have done crcdi to a v3im rent li. tlio Mpcanlimo, li.e l;„,„i,„„„, „„„ , had ..*,1b,1 . at;;;;'";, ' ■ :'',ir "r '"""•• r ■'"'"« »"> "'!■- -" *ct f...»aM:r:',:r»'^j:::;-;;.rtr:/i:;f::".!;!-!:,: "' "'"" " '1 ■■ "'"' •""•. »■''>' I'"'' i"..P"..-d a iMirV.i'iumi,;;;;; ill % SECOND VOVAGii OF DISCOVERY gloves lo Mr. Thorn, preferred an old handkerchief to either a sh!. ling or a sovereign, which were successively tendered \o hlvi i exchange. After dinner I proceeded <»n board to superinter 1 the >">!m , aivi Mr. Thorn, by raoans of the Krusenstern, continuei- to ship tha pro- visions, sails, and cordage which we had riirchased. Comuiundei Ross, with Mr. M'Diarmid, tool a walk tc collect speoimens ol plants, or whatever else miglif ojfcr itself; alter which we all mel at supper at the Governor's house. At table, we v'^re entertained with an account of the manner in v tiich they if eat their time ; thf pt incipal ocrupations i icing hunting wild animals fo( thph" fekins, and <;otfihiiig ws.al< .«, seals, and fish, as the seasons chanced lo per^Tiit, V\'e uudeiT'oo.l thatihe annual number of reindeer ^kins exi;'OruJ lo Dtnmar. v; i? ih, r?, tboiifjaad, and that the quantity of whale and seul o'A, which varu-d nrnicii according to the seasons, might he estimal'^d from tl e capture of the former ranging between two and twelve. U Wilt, iu the mildest seasons that the least number was taker.. We further understood that Mr. Kijer had the pastoral charge of the districts of Holsteinborg and Sukkertop, under ihe esta blish(d church, and that he visited the latter during the spring, baptizinf and confirming the natives as they were born and as thej grew up to years of discretion.' He further informed us, that a regular account of the population is transmitted to the Danisli Government. If I myself witnessed nothing but the most perfeci good order during our short stay here, so I was informed that there were very few instances of immorality, and that the general clia racier of the Greenlanders was so mild and pacific as to afford no instances even of common fighting ; as, in no case, were they the agj.^. V :sors when contests took place between them and the Danisk settlers or other Europeans. I have placed in the Appendix correct accounts of the popula- tion of the settlements which were kindly furnished lo me by Mr Kijer. No one expects to hear that there were trees in the Governor's garden, when even the Shetland islands are reputed to contain bui one ; but we found it cultivated, with salad, radishes, and turnips Here, as in Lapland, the wild angelica abounds, as do C e well known scurvygrass and sorrel, so useful to a people > r umin; such quantities of the grossest animal food. The winter nitd the healthiest season : ^nd it is in summer that th^'r oh.'. istusoii, being pulmonary or ^ 'rrhal, prevail. W'hethes t' ; re lobe amended by physic c M, it was for our surgeor -ot I '•• me, lo^ doiermine ; but the patients cannot at least suffer r»! ' from tiif iRY chief to either a s!j;!. tendered '.o htui -.^ inte>'..Uhe v}fk ^a(v/ nuec to ship the pro- based. Comutundei collect specimens ot er which we all mei we •"■f.rc entertained -..peal their time; thf Is ior thf!.' iicins, anc IS chanced to per !f>!t. iideer ikins exjiorieJ [uantity of whale and ; seasons, might be ing between two and le least Dumber wan TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. the pastoral charge 3p, under >he esta- ^ during the spring ; ere born and us they informed us, that a lilted to the Danisli but the most perfeci i informed that there hat the general clia- icific as to afford no case, were they the hem and the Danisli )unts of the popuia- ished to me by Mr 5S in the Governor'i puted to contain bui ndishes, and turnips ids, as do tl^e i^ell a people i r uminj he winter tultil th«^'r oh' 'istJiisfs !the; i" re to lif [001 .'(rt 10.' me, I" itlcr T^^ .' from im dfcine, Siicft the nearest medical person is two hundred miles oflf atiiaal's vivir ; and even there, his piactice is not extensive enough io flfford hsm 'ae means of doing much harm. The sf '{ivviag of the foremast was finished this evening, and the ctfv were allowed six hours' rest, after a day of very hard labour Inlrulh, with all that had happened to us and all that had occurred tc» lease and provoke them, besides the real hard work which they hiD m 'ergo 3, mine was a crew whose duties had been as little of « sirn <.:tre as will easily be found, either in the naval or the S^siiav/t service ; while if they had had a right to expect a far ^v r and better passage, and a voyage of no more than the usual aiteMUme toils and troubles up to this point, so, in having been thus unexpectedly harassed and disappointed, they were sensible m.i what might have been their comparative holiday was now at aa end, and that henceforward nothing but labour and risk was 'o be expected. Yet there was neither murmur nor regret. Their em was unwearied, and their enthusiasm as lively as ever j while l#)uid not too much praise their steadiness and sobriety, nor be ^erwise than pleased at the amicable and good-tempered manner 2" ^'"*^" ^"®y conducted themselves towards the natives. I do "^m but bare justice to praise them, even now : with but little leption, and that proceeding from the most unexpected and ^re sufferings and disappointments, I found far more reason to J«nire them m the coming years which none of us could then have IWeseen. #uly 25.— When I came on deck this morning at six, the crew Jng still asleep, I found a poor Esquimaux waiting in his canoe -fc»..gside, with an oar which had been lost from one of the boats, J which he had picked up. He was of course handsomely re- Irded for his honesty ; showing at the same time that he had no ectalion ot the present by which he was so delighted. I know how far the exertions of the worthy clergyman deserve to share :.e merit of this and the other good conduct which we witnessed ; be this as It may, I do but justice to the natural character of race, almost every where within our experience, to say that ly are among the most worthy of all the rude tribes vet known ^ur voyagers, in whatever part of the world, lere, also, I must not forget to notice, we procured six Esqui- lux dogs ; a portion of our moving force that we were likely to if!!? V ^'"'«'-. '«^' '*'"» "••''ived, and might not obtain when tdtsi ed. Eventually, they proved of essential use to us. The rnent lo,; the articles which we had procured was of a some- al comphoated aatum. hii* Kv (l.« l:„j„ i -i J< It very |,gh,. „,. ^o„,j ,^|^^. „^ ,,^j,,,,,^ ,,^^. ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^ ^,. ^..( he had furnished, the dogs being also his present : and as far GO SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY '-fit W 'JuLT'^'l^^f^: '"'•«•" 'J'^^vreck of Ihe Hookwood were concerned Aftei; breakfast we went on shore to renew our operations f.., latSl"?eto?rV'r'."\«' Holsteinborg, anS f^nd £ latitude to e 66" 58 N, and the longitude 53" 54' W, by the mean of five chronometers. The governor and the clergyman's p^" dmed with us, and gave us an opportunity of showlnrthem^ o o^r ^T^''"^°^ ^^eether ^llh those which Te'shour "r! T .i'-*^"P' '" '^' ^"'"•'^' «d'''"S ^« t'"« whatever else migh gratify their cunosiiy about an expedition in which they seemeT shown by our own countrymen. Our ship was still, however in great conlus.on, as could not fail to be the case ; and t wrrt't proc^Sd!'' evening that we could expect to be in rradiness ll Taking the boat, I therefore landed on the small spot called Lmes island whu^h afforded the best view of this settlement makin it w, h 1. /"^?^'"\"'r'"^^"^ ««'•««» «f -"o^^tains by wh Ind whth I ' "" ^^r^.l'' ^»«^'"» written the last letters^to Eg' and wh ch I was now likely to write for many a day i ioind te whole party at the governor's house at ni„i tha weS take our probable farewell, and, according equally to norS and maritime custom, shake hands over a " part ng gbss " T Ip was every appearance of a favourable chang'et thetind, and s up that had on board the master and crew of the Hookwoo.l tlu^ whom we could be sure of their being carried ^11^ July 26.--This day, being Sunday, it was quite calm in the ag ound, we could have no prospect of sailing before two o'clorl I therefore attended the church with the governor, and slio I have been surprised at the singing of the Esquimaux 'female I not long known of their musical talents, and (he great facility w which they learn to sing even the more refined sa"red m, 7o 1' c^f rLa^tX :n7otrs.' ''"'^^^^" ''-''^ -'^'^^ ^"- ly Ifnn'v^h"''^''' J"".""''''!? '"y ''I''"'"" «"'^ c^Nperience are, equal 'oelne n. I nr'^"*^'' ^'" '"^'' ^^'^'' ^'"•^'' ' «^"'nrnunica(r,[ •JV rn. ' ? ""''"t-rent to music, or insensible to it, as we .h<,nHh, I he authority ol such a musician as (he one whom I l.avr n.nrnr.J .3 paranioiini : aud when the ftloraviaii missionaries in Labrador under rapidi] violin, no one the fac well kri ject as enligliti jIn relig lible ui exis(. fis far a but wha Jsame tu iJMoravia liiiore nil The ( slEsquims |j"ay (ak< The tra The br I' -^ai y to tall ■i single d£ and so nil and that i «oiiipelled and we im which we RY ood were cpncerncti, Mellisb, with a re- ! our operations for >rg, and found the i4' W, by the means i clergyman's parly showing them oui hich we should be whatever else miglii ich they seemed to d not less than ''jat j still, however, in and it was not till )e in readiness (o small spot called settlement, making lountains by which last letters to Eng- ny a day, j joind ne, that we migln jually io northern ing glass." Thei, the wind, and tin arge of the Danihli )f the Rookwood ug carried on k TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. GI (uite calm in tin lore for coals, w;i^ efore two o'clock, (•nor, and should laux females, had great facility will icred music of llit widely cultivated , under the diroc I'ience are, equal , that both in llib I comrnunicalpd it, as we thonglil rii I jiavc nanic'J. rics in Labradui,; i under h.s charge, have found not only that their converts could be rapidly lafight, m addition to their accurate singing, to plav on the violm, and not only this, but to construct their own instrument no one can question the inherent musical talents of this race, though the faculty may not belong to every tribe. I persume it to be prettv well known that these worthy missionaries have not treated this s. h jeci as a mere matter of amusement or curiosity, but that, .jn iheh" enlightened practice, ,t has been rendered a powerful ^uxiarv In religious mstructiou and civilization, as far as civiliza.:on is pos- lible under s,|ch circumstances as those under which these ti^bes *x.s<. The phrenologists may here seek to confirm their theory |sar at least as the existence of this single faculty can assist them ' Jut whatever th.s, and the parallel case of the Hottento^und^X |ame tuition, may prove, it must not at least be forgotten thit he #Iorav,ans have been the instructors in each case, and that"possibIv I nore merit ,s due to the instructor than the pupil. ' ^ ^' I The clergyman afterwards presented me with a hymn in the f-squ.maux language, which [ subjoin for the sake of the fow who f J>.ay take an inferest in this wide-spread tongue. ' KONGIVTINIK. Krin. — NalluHahau tuhoviksara. Amerdiarsorsoangortikit Atatak ! Kongiin udloce ! Tamasa pillfee attatikit I'aralugo kotsinguerme Tiissirkit tiiksiaiitiviit Sajmaugiiiglo kongerput ! 2. Tcnnitarpin opernaransek ArHiifigpinarliuk TamiUigiidlo sajmarsiisek llligut na"lluiif)eli,ik TusHarkln— ftl Kciiutivnt Sajmaugiiiglo Kongerput ! The translation will be found in the Appendix. I ^a. y to take our departure, as we could not now afford to lose cTen .'I single day nay, scarcely an hour ; so far was the season adJLced I d th7r fT"^''^ ^''^'^'''' '^' 'etween our present Zee I and ^e iilrr . Ji?l"l^ - - »^oard, ivvliu.1. «,« I '■ '~~ '"t.!it7r uituura sauue iroiii (he fort j «l"ch we ol course returned. They attended us to the entrance 63 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY iru- i. with final and conlial adieus on If.' \ of the inlet, and we tho'" €ach side. Whether the tv ;.. kind i^ui ^v.rthy men with whom we had tl,«. parted and whoa, w„ were little likely to see again, may ever this testimony d gratitude to them, i/ unknown to me! but la happy m the opportunity of recording their benevolence. To the dismterpsted generosity we could not find the means of making an return, beyond the simple keepsake. ' , were willing Z u '.' """^ """'y '^""» '" '^' "«'"••« «f remuneration Fnl >*' ''^' 'ncumbenton me, as an officer in the Kingol Engbnd s Herv.ce, to wnte a letter of thanks to the governor, whic I acco..pan.ed by one to the Danish Court: a simple testimony iavour r f one to whom no recommendation from me, could be o( any sen ice m that quarter. ( HAPTEH VI. "'Zth ''«'!~^?"'^''" "'! '''!:'' "'■ Aogi'st-Reach our furthest intende.l Poin, The pilot having quitted us, Commander Ross continued to tale the angles necessary lor determining the positions of the surround- ing islands, of which he had given us the names, ;.. well as those ot the several mountains and p.-omonlori, . We understood from him, that Lieutenant laf hrw' set out „ a very interesting e\ ped.tion to East Greenla:iJ, and that Captain Holboll had removed to the district of Baal's river. Having finished our angles, the breeze contmued to Ireshr;- ' our favour, and we pae d throu«l. an cMcollent channel inside, .he Reef islands, holding our course lo the northward between them and Wiroe. The HoUteinLor mountains were soon out of sight; but we ;; aed a view of other' not less grand though much less rom.^ic in picturesque character We .hen shaped our course for Di.-, .la- I, and thus wer. , , dually carried to a considerable dista- fr. ihe land. July 27.~Jt being no longer necessary to call at Whale ish. ul, thM intention was abandoned; and as I had no desire to mee. e ';Ulv °r/"lf°f *i''*T^^ f ? l^"*^""' supposing, as was not verv .ikely, that she had sailed, I held on oi . course in pursuit of oiil Riain object. The wind continued to favour us all Mondav. and at n»anigat It nau lucivased lo a smart gale, which made us regrei that w< cargo. seen at remarki of whic tare of Wee force of broke, v Blanky, violent s . to her s into her, to heave I under th P lurch, w , iiig been I topsail 111 I soon con ^ we had, we once and the h As we bergs inci in a more We passe leagues tc our chron this was lained in ( fish island especially the tempei lower thai peripnced On the """ l^le,', none of any kind (o bf 1™ ,„T-, '"'° ""^ '"''P"'''' ""'™ «» elapsed .WeVdi::ert^e;:n^' ebet"" A o'd'T l'°T ''"' jecuofdiselim '■"'• """"'"""«■"» f«™i.h them wi.h sub- In the night we n-isa^il n k«r.,. l... .. birds named Xeme wiiirh 1 LaT ''"'^V^^^'e ^^^re many of the ^eme, which I had discovered in my former voyage, 5 C6 SECOND VOYAGE ill-' DISCOVERY i I- m logellier with some other s. Terap«raliiro of the sea had been 1 2 at noon, and the latitude 73' 5«', with a longitude of 66". August 1 .—We commenced a new montli with a clear morning and nothing m sight buta solitary iceborg, Wc woUld gladly have sen! to It lor some water of which we were beginning to bein want, but the swell was too great to permit our landing on it. At noon the lati- tude was 73° 53 , and the longitude «5" 50', the temperature of the sea and the air being equally 40" ; ann»M'd that we were not called on to use it, md thus took the opportunity of repairing it. August 2.— The wind freshening in the same direction, we stood toward the nortu, with one iceberg in sight ; and as Sunday rose on us. It proved a beautiful day, with a uUy of the utmost serenity the atmosphere transparenl, and the Nea nn smooth, as almost 't,; leave us without motion. Hut lor one iceberg that was in sight, wr might have imagined ourselves in the Hummer seas of England tliough the air was only at 15' n« the waler was at 43". The lali' tude at noon was 71" 18, and ihe longitude 00' 4:)' There wa. not an hour during the whole day (hut we could not see twenty leagues all round us. Divine servire was performed, and the re mainder of it was made what we always wished, a i)eriod of re.st On tins day a large spot was seen near the centre of the sun; and t wo bottles were thrown overboard containing our description with the latitude and longitude. Aug. 3.— Like the preceding, >his was a summer's day; and a^ there was a gentle breeze (rom the ,u,rth, wo were er ihled to make home progress to the westward. n.,l|. ,|,n new topmasts were now idded; and s^. warm did the weather feel to the seamen, thai they were glad to throw oil their jackets and work in their shi.ts During this delay, which prevented us lor twelve hours from usiiiu our sa. 8, the engine was kept at work; being only slopped at laM, partly to repair the leeding pump, and partly because the brer/u began to freshen. Our latitude being 71' 11, and longihidfl (W 13, being ll,. lurlhesl north that we were liki-ly to he, a bottle was thrown ovn boyd to commemorate the day, and I prepared letters for Kngland, nnder the possd.ili(y ..flailing in Aith «,„„e whaler. At noon iIk - air was 11' and t^he sea L>"; while both subsidnl to 10' at mid night ; a midnig.it as lovely as the day bad been, and winch in j m 3 sea Lad been \2 ie of 66 ". Ih a cleai morning, Uld gladly have seiil : lo bejn want, but t. At noon the lati- temperature of the nued unchanged at r day; the sea and cctcd in the Medi- The wind at length away, so that the se, however, as a le boilers appeared ve were not called airing it. lireclion, we stood id as Sunday rose J utmost serenity ; looth, as almost to nl was in sight, wo seas of England. at 43". The lali ' J5)' There wa^ d not see twenty •rwed, and the re I, a period of rcsl •e ol the sun; and ir description willi mcr'sday; and a- 3 cr ihlcd to make ipmasts were now the seamen, thai rk in their shirb hoiMs from usin^ ly stopped at lasl, coause the breivr *' 13', being tin was thrown ovci ttcrs for Knglarid, er. At noon (he 1 il to 40' ut niid- n, and wliich iir TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^^ who desires to know whal an arctic night can be, should take u voyage to Baflm s bay to enjoy. Aug. 4.-Had we bt-en in the West Indies, I could but h,ve found he men as d.d th.s morning at six, scrubbing th dS without shoes or stockmgs. The pump of the engine was co n pleted before nme but the starboard boiler began fo leak agai^^^^^ soon after .t had been set going, tha. we were obliged to mak "u e of he other by .Iself; so that we could only obtain ten revolutions m the mmute and that with but one wheel. Thus, altlZh i was a dead calm, we could make but a mile and a ., .arte n |e hour; yet th.s was better than nothing at all, though our debt o • he engme was assuredly as small us il well could be Though the sea was smooth, the sky was cloudy, so that we could obtam no observation ; and the temperature o the liavvls one degree h.gher tl an that of the air, whiih was 40 '. We pas ed l^tween two icebergs, but did not choose, under the pro en nrcums ances, to deviate from our course for the nurposc o IT- t.ng water from them. The never-ending engine was aK.in se o work as soon as we had stopped the leak'in the bo^^n' ^ ,1 ^il .veo clock we contrived to make somewhat more than a mile and hall u, the hour, by the aid of both boilers, but wioTonlv one paddle, of which we could thus command nearly fourteen "eUu m repam.^ the forehold to receive some more stores and one 1 tt?p r '""' "'^'^•■'r"'^'^'''^ by inhaling some sul.llo,s gas at the furnac: ir.outh. A few mollemokc.s were shcl foi X' clogs, and vc found some shrimps of a species new to us Aboul nriK^u:;;:"^'^""" r'>-«^'-'^ (-rnmanc^Hios^ iH^ngsolong w.tllit the ^oa^'f ..^^!;^' .'^ -';:^t^ - s^ays met abundance oflidd ice in our forL^- v.,y gcT Jbm it .fjh^bo^;;^^ res were put out after the engine had b^eu lolVi^gTte '• 1 1 leak r' r, "'"'^•. ,''?V''" P'''»^'"^ t'"' l^oile.^^ L giv.nf over action abet t'^Sve ll!!^ .iL?:..!^?:^-": "'-^T' «!"' ^"1^^ '" __ J, .,^. ,j,j5gj.3j j,j.j-,yjj ^yj,|jj^ wiiich 5 • OH SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY si- i*^ **"' J; 3«.. It had yet worked without accident or interruption. The weather was clear and pleasant, and the wind varying more to the north- ward. At noon the latitude was 7-{" 43 , and the longitude 73' 30 : and at six, we had increased this to 74% being about sixlv miles to the east of Cape Byam Martin. We saw the land loom- ing, but the view was not such as to enable us to recognise ii At eight a fog came on, but the temperature of the air and sea con tinned at 40°, just as it had been at noon. The carpenters having finished the platform for the new capstan between the main and fore hatchway, it was shipped into its place Two icebergs were in sight before the fog set in, but we soon lost sight ol them and of every thing else. Some advantageous changes were made in the machinery, in consequence of which we made fully thirteen revolutions in a minute, with a velocity of more than a mile and a half in the hour. The fog thickened" much al mid- Dight, but, as the temperature was 43", it did not freeze on out '■'gK'ng* •''s had happened in the former voyage. Aug. «.— Being nearly calm to-day, the topgallant sail wa^ liirledat one, and the topsail lowered; but we could not make more than a mile an hour with the engine. At three the foi- suddenly cleared away, and the land became at once visible, as il burstingout of the clouds; (-ape Hyam Martin being distinguished Irom (he rest by the grandeur of its form. All the high lands, and this among the rest, were covered with snow, with but little exception; and we attributed this difference between the present coast and that which we had uuitted, to the circumstance of (he former being exposed to (he north-east. Possession bay bore dne west, about fourteen leagues distant. A light breeze now came from the westward, so as to oblige us to stand north; but we still kept the steam on, while the engine had conducted itself so far beyond all its lormer doings as to have been at work for twenty four hours. Towards noon the land wan covered by a haze, and we saw no more of it at this time. The latitude was 73 33, being nearly that of Posset^ion hay, and (he longitude 7 1 12 , biing about (hir(een leagues to (he eastward of this part of(ho((>ns(. Three iceberg* appeared, one of a very remarkable appear anoe, sinct' it resembled a bridge with a casde perched on i(s sutnmi(. The other (w(t seemed in a crazy s(a(c, and we after- wards saw one of (hem fall (o pieces. Some of (he krang of a «4ialc had beeii seen in the morning; «iul, in (he evening, thai of a very large lish came near us, so (hat wo 8en( out the boat and procured a supply (or (he dogs. A piece of ship (imber was alsi> picked up, with a few shellfish adhering (o it. In the rveoing the i|.f||; n. The weathoi ore to the north Ihe longitude 73' eing about sixly v the land loom- 5 to recognise i(. air and sea con- the new capstan Jd into its place, btit we soon losi itageous changes which we made ity of more than !d much at mid- t freeze on oiii allant sail was could not make t three the (oj; ice visible, as il )g distinguished the high lands, , with but little een the present umstance of the >n bay bore due as (o oblige us hilc the engine ings as to have n the land was his time. The 1 Hay, and the • the east want kable appear perched on its and we afler- (hc krang of a evening, that it the boat and mber was also le evening (he TO THE AIU TIC UEGIONs 69 wmd was directly against us, and the engine was stopped; as it was then of i.ttle use, and as the feeding pun.p had again gone wrong Ihe temperature of the air and sea was 40". On entering Lancaster sound, I was naturally reminded ol the same period m my former voyage, and being now near the spot at winch we had decided to return, under the firm belief that we could penetrate no further westward in this direction, I could not he p making m my journal the remarks which I now transcribe from t a entry; though 1 have carefully reviewed this subjec , i„ tTe .ketch of the whole senes of attempts to discover a north-west pas s^ge, which I have given in the introductory chapter to the preset 'Sir Edward »»arry remarks that Laacaster sound had "obtained a degree of notoriety beyond what it might otherwise have been I r u7a '" r''''' '•'"•" ^''« ^^--y «PP«^ite opinions wh^ch have g^^^afli;' XV' V T •'"^""'^^ ^ -meZ; all^ I guous, at least; aud either from this cause, or other;^, it has bepn , inferred by some of tho.so persons who .oJk an intere t n tl e d' coveries and proceedings of that voyage, that Sir Edward' opj^ion: was opposed to mine, when we were employed logel n on ha hrsi expedition. Under such a conclusion, the same oc m^ also to have perceived, that as a matter of course, he must it* hen expressed that difference of opinion tome, .since this va^ J uty as my associated though junior officer; and thence .rZr they will have further determined, that, in actinia as I d Si ' ceeded u. opposition to his declared opinion ^ "'' ' ^''"^ unde e 1 f ft hrdiJ'n^t"^!? !''' 'T ''""""^ «''-'•' ^^ known to ,„;, andT;!;;!,::;^,^ et^:;':::,:irj,.::tr'"" rn^f t "'^rtrLir -''' '"«" -t'^^^^'^^^^^^ ,' »'" ,'"' "'"y to have communicated. Nor is lhpr« n «;„„! r..:srrc Jo jiHlgiiiuiitH OUCe foil «lic(od; but I fan heic, on Ihe lined, and so long iinconlr.i very upol itself, wIk-i«- ovory 70 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY I recollection seems but that of yesterday, reassert with the most perfect confidence, that no officer then expressed any belief that to that effect So far from this, I was led to infer, by the general remarks on board of my own ship, and by th^ expressions of those w^'T'?';f i''^^ '^''y ^^^ "•«'•« ''P^^'^^^h « 'ight to be con- sulted, that I had, according to their opinions, already proceeded, not merely far enough, but too far. j p cu, ' It is further true, and I must repeat it in this place, that even I the opinion of my second in command had been, what by many It has been supposed, the reverse of my own, which it was not, I was perfecly justified, by my instructions, and by the circumstances in which the expedition found itself, in acting as I did. Those orders were clear and decisive : not only was the season passed for penetralmg further through the ice, but it was my imperative duty as It IS with every officer in command, even if I had not received the orders to which I have referred, to attend to the preservation of the ships and their gallant crews. ' It is unquestioned at the same time, that the whole space to the westward of the ship, at that period, was filled with ice, so that we oou d have penetrated but a few miles further, even had wo made the attempt. Nor do I think it in the least probable, from he appearance of the distant land, as it is at this moment lyine helore me, that my judgment respecting the nature of this openinK would have been d.ffnent from what .t was at the time L re- solved to give up this pursuit, even had I then approached nea.n L I inH ^' ?. '^" '""• '^ '" ^^''" '^"«^^'" '^^' '^' appearance „l Lnlf I '!! ""r'"'" ''""^" very deceptive; and when Cook hinseir had (orined wrongjudgmenls of it,on more than one occa sion, It IS a sufficient proof that the difficulty of judging truly mu>( ollen be very great, if not insuperable. But. in .eality, the whole Itistory ol navigation abounds with similar errors of lahe eonclii mm»; they might be collected in hun.lieds by any one who choose, to search lor this puipose. He must be little conversant, indee-l, in this kind of readiUK, whoeaunot recollect instances in abundance even w.thout the trouble of a search; and instance, of course, Where the erroi- hai been only detected by the better fortune ... greater success of subsecjuent navigators. I. !i iTi?'!l ''T '""' "" ""** '°">^ ««"' «"^ • «'""'•' »''»ve dones... had I lelt that I was in justice called oa for a delenre of my oi.l mons and pnH^ecduigs. Knowing myself lo be right. I adopted tl,;.i course which, altho-igh the most d.llkuk, is ever the best. No, ■iistorv oi iiiiiiw Liiiu' .Ml..' K,,' )!...i it— > >■ • I., ( '^ f ii ""'"" H^'*»*H thai ihc spur iTcsii a liVelv rrr< ! lul-ono» (he v.um„, irsing em,»lien!., (rf which it hn» bf e» 4.- I * TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. iert with the most ied any belief that en suggested a hint Per, by the general xpressions of those a right to be con- iheady proceeded, is place, that even sn, what by many hich it was not, I the circumstances as I did. Those season passed for y imperative duty, had not received ) the preservation le whole space to d with ice, so tliat ler, even had we st probable, from his moment lying re of this openini,' the time wo re- pproachcd ncan i le appearance ol and when Cook ■e than one occa udging truly miir.( •eality, the who!) of false eonclii one who choose- iversant, indeed cesinabiindano' anccs, of course, better fortune or lid liavi- done mi, Icnre of my opi lit, I adopted (li i! or the bust. i\„,c. IcH ai the ti.ne of .he WrccLThe l^c.:; Ai;r. 7.-The ship made about four miles of northing in the mo.n- u.g after which .t ell quite calm, with the vessel's head t o I e northward, heveral .cebergg were in sight, and a boat was sc, t ^r another load o.ce, with which she rerurned about one o'clock ihe boders were then lilled; and the engine being clean and .TadT was set on about three We only obfained ten .evolutions tn^a mmu e, p..opelhng the ship against a light air, at the rate of a .nilo iuLV^"T'' "\ T '"""■' ""' •*«*"8 '•'''^ t» ••«!«« the press..,e of (he steam beyond thirty pounds on the inch At noon w^e were in latitude 73" 50', having made twenty miles noHhing; and we estimated the h,ngit„de to b^he sainTa L er- •iay, as we had no sights for the ch,onomete,s. Mo.-e k.lg wT.h .ome blubber, was picked up for the dogs. The land wa "?;„ on .ah «,de ol Lancaster sound, and our co..,se was about mZTy hetween the two coasts. The day was cloudy, and a few ZpTol ..uu lell , the empe,atu.c being K, .,both at noou and midnigirCo 'lH'a,r,and the water alike. It was so warm, that althoug we ncmed none ol the heat Iron, the steam cngin; into ,he oa n' we I.Mmd It agreeable to dine without a (iro, and with the skylL IhaH ".upeiat.ue lor Kngland; yet. to our Hcnsati.,n.s Ihe weather was ..s .mid as It would have seemed there, with « heat of . xtyXg.r M my mollcnokes had been seen du.ing th.s an.l the prece^l ng hv ■ollcdcd. doubtless, by the fragments of the whale ifTl^J^Zli: un no^^ weary of repcaim^j Eleven ,e^olu.,ol.^, which ue.c all ■% n SECOND VOYAGE OP DISC iy VERY that we could produce, gave us a mile and a hall in the hour. As it was cloudy at noon, we did not obtain a meridian altitude, nor did we see the land until after a very early hour in the mornii/g, and then but indistinctly. In the forenoon, we procured a boat's load of ice, and cleared the Krusenstern of twenty-eight bags ot coals and some timber. The air was at 40", and the water 39' but the latter became 40° also at midnight, though, for a short time in the evening, it had been at 36", in consequence probably of the vicinity of some icebergs. The forehold was restowed, and made ready for receiving addi- tional provisions, and we also obtained some more water in tht evening. As the sun declined to the northward, there was an ap- pearance of wind in the clouds; and, at ten, a light air arose, so ^ to mduce us to set all our canvass. The remains of whaler were still seen, in various directions, covered with mollemokes, and wc also observed a flock of ducks, and some of the ivory gulls. The water seemed crowded with minute marine animals, and affordod us some specimens by means of the gauze nets. During all the last week the utmost anxiety was expressed by all on board for a fair wind ; and our impatience to prolit bv the line weatner made the miserable performance of the engine more grievous. That it was a frequent subject of execrations, I might guess, .f I did not hear it; and if the constructor received his share also, no one could have expressed much surprise. It required constant and .ninutc attention to persuade it to work at all ; as even with all the goodwill of the workmen, my presence was for ever required in the engine room, insomuch that I was scarcely allowed to sleep. It may well then be believed fhat the appearance of a breeze Irom the eastward was looked for with the utmost solicitude. Every hand was held up to feci if a wind was coming, every cloud and fog- bank watched, and all prophesied according to their hopes or fears, till they were fairly driven off the deck by the necessity of turning in to sleep. Had we been less anxious ourselves, we might havi been more amused by observing how the characters of the men in- lluenced their conduct on (his occasion. Those of an eager dispo- sition were continually watching tho easterp sky, to discover in ilu changes ol the clouds, or whatever else might occur, the first pro mise ol a lair wind, while the desponding characters occupied the bows, looking lu gloomy silence at the dark sea and sky before them, and marking, even without a word, (heir despair of our ultimaie success, or tlieir fears that our voyage was about to come to an end, at oven (his early day. At midnight, however, every symptom ." .* !^^'?'!i'''""' "*.*'..*'"'*' '»'«»" ♦" »*"»w i(self; (he despairing, 'ew ic- ' Y^er^ix Uiviv r.piiils, and ihi! sutiBJaciion oi' the hopeful was ai Irnijlh diffuKcd throughout (he si Au, incre£ o'cloc Thev men b vine s ffitiide Bight ; ^^ttto re peen r hvas he directl; eveninj , the ten luidnig of the ( served though we sho ' Aug. sides ol < mornini we lost at noon prime . eleven ' ■ Warret * two mil( to the s shore. At fiv off, whi and, wli I embayei I We sou ;, hour it s I then but I much in lo be ni( motion o into thro I comforta I carried I irable. Ill) P ill in the hour. As ridian altitude, nor ur in the morning, } procured a boat's /enty- eight bags ol and the water 39"; jh, for a short time tice probably of the for receiving addi- nnore water in tht , there was an ap- ght air arose, so j- lins of whale? were lolleraokes, and we ivory gulls. The malj, and affordoci as expi'essed by all t) profit by the fine the engine more itecrations, I might received his share prise. It required /ork at all ; as even ience was for ever scarcely allowed to larance of a breeze it solicitude. Every I'ery cloud and fog- leir hopes or fears, ecessity of turniiif( CH, we might hav< ers of the men in- of an eager dispo- , to discover in iht cur, the first pro icters occupied the id sky before them, iir of our ultimate loiil to come to an er, every symptom ^ despairing, !cw re- J le honefui was at * TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 73 Aug. 0— This welcome wind, which had at last arrived, gradually ujcreased : all sad was set, and the engine kept in action till three o dock, though by considerable exertions of the men at the bellows. The weather st.U felt m. d, though the wind was east; and as the men had undergone much fatigue, they were sent to rest after di- vine service. The latitude was observed at 74' 1', and the lon- g,«.de by the chronometer was 77". No ice of any kind was in sight; but the snowy tops of the mountains, and particularly of the wo remarkable ones formerly named Catharine and Elizabeth, were ^een nsmg above the clouds. The course steered by the compass twas here north-north-east, which, under a variation of 1 14", led us directly up the sound ; making thus a course nearly west. In the eyeamg, Cape Liverpool was also seen above the clouds. At noon ^the temperature of the air, and the sea equally, were at 40° and a^ uudnight U subsided but one degree. That the present ch;eless of the crew might want nothing that we could add to it, they were served w.lh a d.nner of fresh beef from our GallowaV bullJck . A,t in n"? P'T'^^ *^« remainder in this state. sides of ihe'IlTr " "'^^S^^^t '^^ "«'-^hern and southern MUes ot the sound were m sight, though obscurely; but as the rTo7silTon '" "'f '■"'^"^'' '^' '^ »^-«-' - 'hU tLa Tt noon "Sj .;^^» «;»' «nd were unable to obtain any observations P i r e ;erS "tr' ^"'V7' '"' '^' chronometer being near the elernTe ad„r .r^'^nu T' P-'^^y ^«"» ascertained. At .eleven we had passed Cape Charles Yorke on one side and Cane |^^arrendrince Regent's inlet. Accordingly, at two in the afternoon, we made (he land be(weeii Cape Seppings and Elwin bay : bearing up, and sailing along .shore, as soon as we had approached it within three leagues. The wind, which had been gradually increasing for some time, became so hard a gale at four o'clock, as to reduce us to a close-reeled topsail under which we were now compelled to scud. The sea, whicli had been comparatively smooth an.ong the ice, rose also as higli as we had ^eeu it during any part of the voyage; and as (he wind, being now fr«>sn ihc north -north-cast, blew directly down (he inlel, the land allbided us no shelter. We (heiefoie prepared our storui sails, and made ready to lie to under them lor the night. When about ten milch to the north of llie place where the I'm v wa» wrecked, and near Eiwiii bay, we obiained some good oitM i lieavy, t Jxtreme The If weather ince of inablcd t liouis, le f cellent m I Aug. 1 ^vent of -^•'(•lock in < ealed ri( iliree cali lie ticiiic the old quailei, he steam up in an rendered it unne- emperature of the p a good look out : and activity of the hich we had been •oom, and we thus with a fine breeze to the northward uflicieni offing (o the land to the [ north-north-east, ed that a quantity and that both the ning and ordering by midnight the ;gy, was not such and at six, while id by Commandci' but found a good ssed, through (lie rst. \t the saiiic able us to see our I ; when we found i'. After this, we e able to make a ; inlet. the laud behvccii tiling along shore, igues. The wind, ';, became so hard ISC-reefed topsail The sea, whicli rose also as higli and as (he wind, ly down the inlel, •epaied our storui I night. :e where the I'lin sonic good ob^rr ■i TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 75 valions. In running down, we perceived some of the land ice still fast in the bays; but, except a small iceberg, there were no out- standing masses on the shore. At nine we passed Batty bay after which we met ice of a very different character from that in Baffin's bay, being much more uneven, and, generally, thicker; and from Its appearance we concluded, that not only this, but most of what #e had just passed, was the produce of the previous year, and had teen now broken off from the shores north of Prince Begent's #ilet. As soon as tve had passed the streams of ice already no- Iced, the temperature of the water at the surface rose from 31" to ^3 ', giving us hopes that we should now see no more of this kind • x^h.le, although we had the prospect of being obliged to lie to for moderate weather, we considered this gale to be much in our Uavoiir. t/f!J running under very little sail till midnight, at which time me had fetched from the furthest point of our progress in 1818 to «he head of Pnnce Begent s inlet, in thirty-six hours, we brought go under the storm tra^sail and storm fore-staysail; the topLil laying been previously handed, and the topgallant yard down L. 1" 7r ""P"''^^"^ '*^ ••f'"^'''^' «« another subject, that while we j«ve,e off Cape Yorke, and when the motion of the vessel became «.dciable, our compasses ceased to be of any use. Pope's, rO.lberts, and Alexander's, each of which had been used on the voyage, all ceased to traverse about the same time; and we were ieaZrJ V 'Tr^ '" !^P' ""'■ T'-'"' ^y "'«*"« of astronomical 4)ea,i„gs, deduced from the sun in the manner which 1 had practised ^1 my hrst voyage. Thus, wli^n we had ascertained the hlaZgof any objex ahead, we steered for it without regard to the now use- Jess needle; though when the weather became thick, and the Sea .eavy, this mode of proceeding either became difficu t or required k'xtreinc caution. i^-qmitu The ice soon appeared to leeward in detached pieces, and the Kveather became thicker .uW midnight, but there was no appe^- lThl.1 .Tl '"^'''' '" '^''i ^'»'««'«»de'- Koss and myself we"-e ' enabled to take some rest, after the fatigues of the last forty-S ftE Lxyinkf ''^^ '' '- -^-' ^« -^ -p-^-^ -^ -- :<.Hoo ,„ the morning a hea.y pack of ice, which had been con H • c'all^Mfn"^/'" > ^"'y'""'r "'''' ''^ appearanc^^t:^ y -ot cables length uuder our Ice, being then on y recognised bv ^iIm «= though we were nSf ^t '"'" '°."'*^ "«' ^'^<^«'''' ^^e ship, about five miKlcewa r.X :,^S oTr''" '""?"' ' 1»''l' time the wind and weather hid h„l! "X P"'°'' °' "'"''* cient water to pass within inus.kct-shot of the land. ine shore here was at first sln„i„„. u... j-. .-■ - ,- .. ward, we found that .he land r.»;Cm. 'ht'st; 'irperprnS;;, Iblilfs from tained thai of a horizo gical oppo oaine dowi bs; but it d f'he weath fe steam v Aug. 13. piatour su| fltice we cc 0liided that |e the birtli fJted the fJi Jamed Adel Ijpad selected At two o' |ie tide had #6 were fiv iiside of son *^hile that o lore we sav some pla. 'utting on ar ore fantasti Irock in othei intersected bj #ie marks of I At seven tl |ie tide, whi< |ff the ice wh •pen passage his direction, ibove a quar 'gainst us, anc y aground. in the mean e cast off a s t'ble action ( %hich we coul |o«ld make bu ^e therefore ^ On further jowever fount j^iieen minutes M TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 77 ling (o hoist (lie ■n kept in readi- 3ar of a piece of hock on the lar- I the right way d of the pack oi 'caking- over i(, ry, and at last Idenly the most ne that was as ►uld venture to sheltered from ling in size and floating near it uring to set the land. In hall eked, with the cern the ship, he was distin- , we conld not erly current or '. A thick fog the ice we had earer weathei, found that vvc steam at four Diit of order, it cached a point oint, at whicli nmander Ross nchorage, and sail both, into vards proved, he coast. He d us securil) me that there Ji-east, in the I clear lins ol ;round. We had just HiiHi" io the noiiii :)crpendicula! clilfs from two to three hundred feet in heifflw W« i tained that they consisted of li,„esto„e S ntinJTheT'^ '^'^'- Of a horizontal stratification ; but as to any o he detaiU ^^^'^'^'r gical opportunities extended no further A If i '' ""''Seolo- oame down to the beach, as if to ^ra i'fv tlP -'^^ '''''''« *'««•• bs; but it did not follow Ions nor ro^ / T '""?"'y •"^specting f he weather soon becrme ^uite eal CZr'^'[ '^ '^' '^'^P A. stea. we were carried al th: "^of^, ^J ^ 1^^^% -d |e the birthday of the Duchess ofCllTno \u u *^" ^^'^^'-^^^'^ 'o *ifed the first point of o^r d scover el in ?bl '^' ''^'^^ ''^'''• fi^^i^^!t zt i^ct :^ :^-.g that t.hile that on the'^ut^rra etti:g ttTtle^so T ^^ ^^^^^ fore we saw of this coast, the higher the cb^^ "'?''"?• '^^''^ j^ some places projecting into £«„!,, fr'' ^"""^' ^'^i'« futtingon anaspectofwdl castles r^^ shelves, and at others We fantastical,^s is nri^mt^n solTt J^^ '^'''' ^^^^^ rock m other parts of the world A/Inn» . f *^T"'' *^'^ 'his Intersected by 5eep ravinesTcinveying st ^"^^^^^^^^^^^ '''' \y --« fre marks of former torrents ^ '^^'^'*' *»" showing * e'tid:::h!SE cAzrritr' 'r ^.'^--'-rd; and * m the ice which obstrtt^dXe'ifprCedr '7h " ," ^^ ^'^"^^ open passage to the northward Thp lln j V "' '^^^'"^ an |;is direction, and we acco'dingly lade "n-Zb T" '" '''''^ '° Ibove aquartcrofa mile, whenX wmd ani tbp ""' P'^''^'^^'* Jgamst us, and we were obliged to make fast fn f '"r°* "^'"^ ' •y aground. ^ " '"^'^^ *«»' ^o » P'ece of ice whicli J» the meantime the steam was RotuD.arH»K« • j. • we cast off a second time, but m. de i X' ^ '^'°'' ^^'"^ ^'SK iifr-ble action of the engine and tt H.f f'^^T' .^^'"& ^« '^^ %l.ioh we could not her?take t me « ^^2 "/'r 'T'T' ^r^' ejuld make but eight revolutions, g vinTu bu . '. '^'' ^^^'^ >^e therefore were obliffed affain to m.^ . ."* '"•'^ «" hour. i On further examination of he CkTni^o'f r' '^^"^- , lowever found -hat it w«« no«;M^?' ^"'^ ^''^ ^"S'ne, [ now '^een minutes as would keep the engin^-ili'S^ ^E :Xi:i rMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 j50 "'"^S ^ us, 12.5 20 U 11 1.6 <^ ^ /} Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ 4.' S\ ■^ s \ 4^ 93 WIST MAIN STRUT WIBSTIR.N.Y 149»0 (716) 873-4303 ^.^' ^ Ui ^ :,. y mm WW 78 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY period, and with thirteen or fourteen revohitions of the wheels; I therefore adopted a new plan for converting it to some use. \ whale line was carried out as a warp about two cables' lenglh ahead; when the engine being stopped so as to allow the steam lu accumulate, the vessel was warped on by it; and this being done the steam was again set on. Thus, alternately steaming am! warping, we proceeded along shore against the wind and tlio current; though sometimes compelled by the ice to haul in so close, that we were within a pistol-shot of the beach, wilh only a few inches water to spare beyond our draught of seven feet si\ inches. During all (his period of extraordinary and laborious exertion lasting from six in the morning till two in the afternoon, llii utmost anxiety prevailed among the men throughout the space il five miles, and especially whenever we expected to turn the sue cessive points which one after the other obstructed our view aloiij; the shore. Every one that could be spared from the work below was at the mast-head as soon as he could get (here ; and endles. were the conjectures respec(ing the wreck of the Fury (or whicli we were searching. At three, Commander Ross, who had tli^n been her lieutenant, recognised a high projecting precipice, asbeinj one which was about three miles to the north vaid of her place; and as we advanced, we saw, at four, the tents themselves. One only seemed entire and the rest, being common camp tents, dis « played only their poles and ropes, with a few tattered remainrl dangling from their tops. Commander Ros;- was then detached wilh a boat to seek for a safe anchorage, and soon returned with the welcome intelligenct of an excellent harbour formed by a large iceberg and two small bones, situated about a quarter of a mile to the southward of iho mound where the stores had been deposited. We (hcrefore la- boured wi(h fresh spiri( and energy, in spi(e of a new difficul(\j which obliged us (o keep ou(sido of (he ice that was aground oiil Fury point. The water was so shallow within it as to bo qiiiif insufficient for us; the stones appearing above it within hall llif breath of the ship, so as to show that there was a wall of rod here, by the side of which we were obliged to creep within a lew yards, lest wo should be swept away by the current, which, bii( i few fathoms further out, ran vei-y strong against us. Here wc wen also much perplexed by the floating pieces of ice which it Wib impossible to avoid. Kut this also served at last to show -.is llif peculiar advantage of (ho con8(ruc(ion devised for our paddles. Ii\ turning off (he ice (hoy escaped all damage; and, at half alWr eight, (he ship was moored in the ice harbour, which had sixlccn J feci at low water. — it /ERY lions of the wheels ; I ig it to some use. A lit two cables' lengiii to allow the steam in ; and this being done, pnately steaming and St the wind and the he ice to haul in so he beach, wilh only a light of seven feet si\ id laborious exertion. n the afternoon, (Ik roughout the space ol Jcted to turn the sue ructcd our view aloiif; from the work below et there; and endl<'s> »f the Fury (or which Ross, who had tlici) ing precipice, asbeinj th yard of her place;! ints themselves. One I imnn camp tents, disl few tattered remain> I a boat to seek for a welcome intelligence :eberg and two small * the southward of (lie I. We therefore la-J e of a new difficulu that was aground on hin it as to be qiiiirl 3ve it within hall (lie was a wall of rod creep within a lew urrent, which, but a nst us. Here we were 1 of ice which it \va> last to sliow lis tlif I for our paddles. I!} 9 ; and, at half nflfi ir, which had sixteen TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 79 CHAPTER VIII. i n„,l name^-Obslructid bTthVkra'i^rm^^^^^^^^^^^ "'~"- •"»*•« The Victory being now securely moored in a good ice harbour w.thm a quarter of a mile of the place where the FWrstS I were landed, we were anxious to examine the spot; and having ordered the men a good meal, with the rest to whiih they were so well entitled, I anded at nine with Commander Ross, MiXm and the surgeon. We found the coast almost lined with coal; and U was with no common interest that we proceeded to the onk tent which remained entire. This had been L mess tent of the Fu y's off.cers; but .t was too evident that the bears had been avii7it .equent visits Tl^ere had been a pocket near the dooTSre tom,na„der Ross had left his memorandum book and specTmeJs ol birds ; but It was torn down, without leaving a fragme^fof wl.a it contained. The sides of the tent were also in many X^esZn f out o the ground , but it was in other respects entire^ ^ \\ here the preserved meats and vegetables had been deposited we found every thing entire. The canisters had been pHed ud in Uvo heaps: but though quite exposed to all the chai es oHIe ; ...la e or four years, they had not sufiered in the slightest degree Ihcre had been no water to rust them, and the securitv nfilw lioin.ngs had prevented the bears from sm'elling t e r contel I aS l.oy known what was within, not much of thi« provision wo dd I .ave come to our share, and they would have had nZ rea on 'an wc to be thankful for .Mr. Donkin's patent. On examine 'lie contents, they were not found frozen, Eor did the tastn" he several articles appear to have been in Ihe least degree alerld ..swas indeed no small satisfaction; as it was not ourl.mi ybi r very exis ence and the prospect of success, which wc e^m bi. ad, flour, and cocoa, were in equally good c;«„.S fr^m 7""" """'' «ii 1 ' ., 80 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY f ( * -II We proceeded now to the beach where the Fury had been abandoned, but not a trace of her hull was to be seen. There wpi p many opinions; but ail were equally at liberty to conjecture wlia had become of the wreck. Having often seen, however, what (li. moving masses of ice could do on this coast, it was not difficult Ui guess in general what we could not explain in detail. She had been carried bodily off, or had been ground to atoms and floated away to add to the drift timber of these seas. At any rate, she wa* not to be found ; we had seen no appearance of her during the ten miles that we had coasted within pistol-shot of the shore to tlip southward of this place, and we now examined it for two miles lo the northward with no better success. We therefore relumed on board, and made preparations foi embarking a sufficiency of stores and provisions to complete our equipment for two years and three months; being what we expected to want on the one hand, and to obtain on the other. I need no! say that it was an occurrence not less novel than interesting, to find in this abandoned region of solitude and ice, and rocks, a read^ market where we could supply all our wants, and, collected in oiii spot, all the materials for which we should have searched the waip- houses of Wapping or Rotherhithe: all ready to be shipped when we chose, and all free of cost; since it was the certainty of this, supply, and a well-grounded one it proved, that had formed tlie foundation of the present expedition. A list of our wants was accordingly made out by Mr. Thorn, who remained on board to receive the stores, toge vith the leadinj; mate and a few hands. On shore, the rest .», .rew were read; with the boats to receive and transport whatever was to be taken ; and the steward together with the surgeon were employed in select- ing whatever appeared to be of the best quality. Yet all that we could possibly stow away seemed scarcely to diminish the piles oli canisters, of which we embarked whatever we could, together willi| such flour, cocoa, and sugar, as wc wanted; all that we took being' in excellent condition. Aug. 14.— We continued our embarkations this day, includiiifi ten tons of coals ; and, after allowing the men some rest, we con- trived to get these, together with all the provisions and a part of (Ik stQres, on board before dinner time. We had found the spare mi/en lop-mast of the Fury ; and this was selected by the carpenter lor a new boom, in place of the one that we had lost. We also goi some anchors and hawsers, together with some boatswain's and carpenter's stores to make up our deficiencies. Some of the best of the sails were taken to make housings ; having found that beloni' ing to the Fury damaged from having been ill mado u", and f flm_= having lain in a situation which prevented (he melted 'snow froni^ '■'iliiil ^ERY ! the Fury had been be seen. There wore ty to conjecture wlia I, however, what tin' it was not diflioull to n in detail. She had to alonas and floated At any rate, she was of her during the ten t of the shore to the ed it for two miles to ade preparations for ions to complete oui ing what we expected be other. I need not an interesting, to find ;, and rocks, a read\ and, collected in one ."e searched the ware- y to be shipped when the certainty of this " that bad formed the It by Mr. Thorn, who vith the leadini, ^rew were ready vet was to be taken ; e employed in select- ty. Yet ail that we diminish the piles ol J could, together with} ill that we took beingi IS this day, including 1 some rest, wo con- onsand a part of I lie bund the spare mizen by the carpenter lor lost. W'c also goi onic boatswain's and Some of the best ol _^ 5 found that bcloiu' | melted snow fioni TO THE ARCTIC REGIdNS. running off. A skreen lined with fearnouffht was alsn fn..„j • ^ tolerable condition; b«t the bears had overseftLLrnes" ckl^^ devourednearly the wholeof the contents. Wefound that someoV the candle boxes had been entered, either by ermines or miceTone d' .hem being mit.rely emptied, and the (Jhers partially. Thourf^ Jb^^ached. and especially on the upper side, as I alrea«^ reSfd were lust as thev had bppn !of# ti,., j ° »«'gmiy rusteu penecuy ary. We selected from it what we thonffbf n/. ci,«. u r^un-e , .„d .h.a, in compliance „Uh S?, Edward ffrry' .S thus far greedy, havmg ,n view but the execution of our v\J J\ found txvVv: 'i-Sc'iif r-r ^; !'■^«'■T7r"• "" which had beoo iSid doV„ LZ oha , A„d rf,'""'" 'T '}"" «J„,,,d...ce«ai.edratrri^^^^^^^^^^ The tides were found to be very irrejtular- hm „ .« a« i iiisi oignt, the tide rose seven feet thf (lon/i i.o;„ n .i . !. n.™ .be northward , hn. ,he rXwin'/.^rtcrfbrce' ^ctt " »c, wu landed above bj^h waler-mark, and Iwo botllei u 82 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ■J Ht mmi were left in il, containing an account of our proceedings up to thai date. The boats were then hoisted up and secured, as was the Krusenstern in the usual manner; and casting oflfthe ship from thr ice we made sail for Cape Garry. It is (rue that the opening which we had seen leading to the westward held out the appearance ofn passage, but it was less clear of ice, and had a much more feeble current than that to the southward. It was this also which seemed likely to lead us soonest to the American continent; while, in addi- tion to all these reasons, we had the temptation of a fair wind in this direction. Aug. 15. — At midnight the weather became thick, and soon after it rained in torrents, when we lost sight of land. As I formerlv remarked, our compasses had ceased to traverse whenever the ship had any motion; and, as we had no means therefore of ascertaining the true course, we steered by the wind, the direction of which we had observed before it became thick, and by the bearing of a stream of ice which we had noted : under which guidance, and using the pieces of ice as marks, we contrived to make Cape Garry very well. It was about four miles from us at eight o'clock in the morning; r.nd, at nine, we sounded at about a quarter of a mile, in twelve fathoms water. The land here was comparatively low, but apparently of the same limestone; and, as this was the furthest extremity of the coast which had yet been discovered, our voyage now began to acquire its pe- culiar interest, since as yet we had seen nothing that was not more or less known. It had also been conjectured that there was an open sea between this point and the American continent : but this we soon found to be erroneous; since, after turning a little to the westward, the land, as far as we could judge, extended in a south boulh-west direction, and appeared to be continuous. At a qi'arter of a mile from the beach we found bottom from ten (o twelve fathoms, and continued to run in this depth, and at the same distance from the shore, at the rate of three miles and a hall in the hour, passing through many pieces of heavy ice, which, while they kept the sea smooth, assured us that the water con- tinued sufficiently deep for our ship. The greatest danger therefore which we had to apprehend, was that < f being suddenly embayed; ;nid we therefore kept ourselves in readiness to haul oft' or to anchor as might prove to be necessary. Though the risk too was con- siderable, we could not aflord to lose the fair wind while the sea was sufficiently open. At ten we came to a line bay; and, sailing round it, found it lo be about a mile in length and in breath; and as, by a singular coinf^idence, this prnypd to be the birthday of imv worth*' hiilMiM. Mr, Foarnall, I conferred his name on it, and those of two members EBY roc«edings up to that secured, as was the off the ship from thr at the opening which the appearance of a a much more feeble is also which seemed lent; while, in addi- ion of a fair wind in thick, and soon after and. As I formerly e whenever the ship ■efore of ascertaining rection of which we 5 bearing of a stream ance, and using the ipe Garry very well. )ck in the morning; of a mite, in twelve parently of the same y of the coast which m to acquire its po- ; that was not more I that there was an continent : but thi^ irning a little to the xtcnded in a south - nuous. nd bottom from ten s depth, and at the ee miles and a hall heavy ice, which, lat the water con- *t danger therefore suddenly embayed; auloffoi" to anchor risk too was con- tvind while the sea [)imd it, found it lo a»i, by n singular 111* ti>j\i«ili\i KiiiLLtt '"V ■ se of two members TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 83 ol a family to whose kindness when fitting onf «,^ of (his bay, that, which at a distance flnnp»nn!i «« u , "°"°"' ,to be limestone; and fragments of thp.«m. b ^^ '^?*^' P''°^«*' P by sounding: The Stlfhtl S Sl^T ''" 'T^''^ I At eleven we passed the southern po?nt ant a lit IpkT '°^ ''"• iame to the entrance of a river disrhrr^in. '. iu ^^^""'^ °**°°' If channels; exhibiting aVe^^Tit'ifSl'X^,^ ts feff"'^ riend of Woolwich yard who hl^o^ ^1"^ hSj^ ""' 'rioTetrwarf ^^t^t^^t'^' ^ '^^ -^a";^^^^^^^ nuchsmallerstream and twomi^^f '^ ' similar, but 'ill, which I name^Mount X™ '?;' ^Th ' ''"'^'^^^}' Peaked ill be found in the chart ' ^^ ''^^^' "^""'^ ^^ ^^is part .b'ut'':LTch^rrc'iiS Tumbf r'T '^ ''^ -'--'^. sating tile presence o a hoai e^^Z 'u^''^' "S''^""'^' '"^i .arrow inl^t opened to the no ^^^^^^^^^^^ off; and a rull of ice, and was probably shairw-b^^^^ u ''^ ^P^^^''^ ^« be there were but ten fathomTi^t ' rthe St"'^^^^^^^ '''' sonfirmed by finding that there wa^ll?^ Ihis opinion wa* i^urrent, eithL into or out o inhoui ^ "^ appearance of any |unning outside. I namedlis' inWa a ^inl" " '''' ^'"'^''^ ^"« I Round this point we found a very smal isl«„I' . u- . t Ihe name of Ditchburn, and to treYand w th in it Bno.r''''t ' '"'' [he distance of a mile, and apneariL n h ?'"^' ''^"'S «' general direction already visible hnVrn ^"""""o^s '« the ^hile the ice became thiclr and heavier tLalT"'^- ''["' ,'"^' 'oon, the fog cleared away, and SeL 2 '!" ^'^^ "''«''- 'I mountains rising beyond the hnH f. f T T '''^^ « ••«n8« .^hich we now saw^leaTy to be rlo^f a'ld'n i".' 'f'" '°'''^«^ astward with this elevated v^.iL T ""''."^^ ''act, continuous h'upted plain buf of a serierof'.'"'^ "°"'''"''^' "°' ^^ ''^ "«i"- ^hich we Luldburill discern wl^^^^ ^'""l''' '^'"^ '«'«'«' ^'"ong onnected by an irthltrth tt^o" ' ""' '^'^"'^ ^"'^ ^'^^ -' ^ Sit;:; t: T;:::::fz.fr '° t.-^^'^-^-^ - fat they had no experieZTtirLl ^ ^'^' ^°*^ '* ^^'''^ P'-oved fere the whalers mi^ht ^d an « ty p trul? cTuM^b"''^"';''"^ m- them to make the trial, and such trial's LVu! ^ ""P*"^'""^ ^ours. The u.ainland iow aDoeLl nn.l'^Jr.l!^ he as successful pvu 10 bnghien, bemg as clear of snu^'.^T T "'"^ ^""^ *'""- '-u,„, „„. „„„„„ Jo^.s:,zzz'!:.;zi^;r:: S-l SECOND \ OYAGE OF DISCOVERY and subsequently a low from of which several stretched out, appearing to cover a large bay formed in the high blue land, and full of close-packed ice. A low tract was also visible to the southward of this; beyond which tlip mountain range extended, as far as the eye could reach, in a south- south-east direction as far as we could judge. We could not here, however, approach nearer, on account of a tract of closely-packed ice, which formed a crescent extending from the shore round to the east and north-east. This was the first time that our progress had been entirely obstructed; and it was onlj now we found that we were still too early in the season to explore this passage ; a discovery that consoled us for all our delays, in spite of which we were now convinced that we had made a grealei progress than we could originally have expected in a single season, as we should also have gained nothing by being earlier. At eight in the evening the wind came fresh from the north-wosi which gave us an opportunity of examining more minutely ilit possibility of penetrating further; but no opening was to be fouml, neither was there any clear water visible over the ice, in any di reclion south of the east or west. We were therefore obliged i(, haul off and beat the whole night among the drift ice, which \sih streaming from the north-west, out of the different bays and creeks Our estimated distance was about thirty miles south of Cape Garry. Aug. 1 6. — The wind continued about north-west, and we licy\ on beating to gain the weather shore, near the last point we had passed, which now bore north-west by west. At two in the morniiijj^ we got near to the land, and made fast to an iceberg about musketl shot from the beach, in three and a half fathoms water, being ,ii| the common entrance of two beautiful little harbours. By the imi we were secured and the sails furled, it was too late for the usiiall church service ; and as the men had undergone great fatigue, tlicjl were allowed the hours for rest. I went on shore with all llief officers, to take formal possession of the new-discovered land; and at one o'clock, being a few minutes after seven in London, the colours were displayed with the usual ceremony, and the healili of the King drunk, together with that of the founder of our expe- dition, after whom the land was named. On exploring this spot it was found to be the southern extreruin of the low land that we traced, and that it joined the hill traci by an isthmus. Though formed of limestone, it was covered by j scattered blocks of granite, indicating the probable nature of lli«| mountainous country beyond. On the east side the rock was quilt bare, but the west displayed some vegetation, with plants in ttowcr! collected lor the hortux siccus. An old Esniiirnanni Esqi ! end of which several cover a large bay ie-packed ice. A low is; beyond which the uld reach, ia e south- !arer, on account of a escent extending from rhis was the first time :ted; and it was only the season to explore for all our delays, in r'e had made a greater ted in a single season, ing earlier. » from the north- wesi g more minutely tlir aing was to be found, 'er the ice, in any di- B therefore obliged to e drift ice, which wa^ erent bays and creeks niles south of Cape th-west, and we kcpi the last point we had At two in the morning J ceberg about musket- ^f thorns water, being ait| irbours. By the time | too late for the usiinlj Je great fatigue, llicjL on shore with all tliel -discovered land; and'^ }ven in London, the nony, and the healtli bunder of our expe- be southern extrctuiiv joined the hill traci ^ le, it was covered bv -S 'obable nature of (lif^ de the rock was quilt^ with plants in flower. « An old Esquimatm TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^ grave proved that it had been visited by some of this wanderioK tr.be; and we lound the bones of foxes, and teeth of the mZk ox. A bird resembhng a sand lark was the only living animaUvc . From the highest part of this land, which was upwards of a ^hundred feet above the level of the sea, we obtained a good ^ew ^f he bay and the awning shores, and had the satidactij^, ^ tfind that the .ce was m motion and fast clearing awav. We there lore resoN^ed to wait patiently till we could see an opening and proceeded to the northern quarter of this spot to make some obser vations on the d.p of the magnetic needle' Here we found wo Nuimauxhuts, but empty, together with a fox-trap, containing jsomeo theb.aes of this animal; we went afterwards on boa d to > survey the northernmost harbour, which was found to have sufi- •.nt water for us. and to be sheltered from both wind and curC looon 1 hough the Wind was unaltered, the clouds contiuued to cover the sun so as to prevent any observition. The sea abounded .i.,^?'^'~P-® ^"? appearing for the first time this morninff ■glits were obtamed for the chronometers and the varialioT The Ob ervafons here made on the dip of the magnetic needle gave 8 )". being the greatest that had yet been observed, and arincreale of one degree since we left the Fury's beach. As the variation a so was westerly we expected that we should find, or pass o^e |l.c^n^gnet.c pole, which, under such a dip, could noTbeTr wo'tt'l"?'; ""^ ''^1 ' ^''^''' "'^^ «^ '»'« '«"d' ^>»« point which ^^c had next to pass being due south of our present anchora.^^ selTSe^nr,"^ '^'^^ ^" observe that th'e ^^"tircJniS rougl t TheSnt ''k'' '""r^'^y ""'' ^'" '»P^'"g ^« work We had here left a bottle containing an account of our proceodincs m U nTrr M '"'' """ ^''^ *^*'"««^ ^« «««^ off «"^' Icl go our Jiitnor m ton Inilwuriu <>»>/>..< * -n- > • .. i^» ^v* um the islan.l »ho„T"f ■ "mr" '"" ""^""-"^ '*^"S'n "farer the point of ■sland than before. The steam was .hen got ready; and, there 86 HK<;UNb VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY .1 I' r< being a light air of win*], we took advantage of this and of the tide weighed, and stood uut for the opening thp.t seemsd to lead to the southern point, w'jich was ten or twelve leagues distant. It soon however, fell cftJm, and the engine acting very badly, we made little progress. At six we were to the eastward of a large rock which seemed to be part of a reef extending between the points of the inlet in view to the westward, and which was full of ice. Near this rock there were many whales, apparently feeding and enjoying themselves in perfect . 'ruj, pnd one large one came very near the ship. When- ever also the paddles were in motion, thj seals were roused up, and seemed to be very abundant. At eight o'clock a breeze sprung up from the northward, ena- blmg us to approach the land, which was tolerably clear of ice till midnight; but the engine working to little purpose, it was stopped, and the paddle hoisted up. Unfortunately, the weather became thick at ten, so that wo could only shape our course by the wind a hazardous guide, as it might shift, without our being able to per- ceive it, for want of marks or compass, and thus lead us into peril. Still It was a risk worth venturing; since it was by working to the soulhwarj, that wo might get hold of the land which we presumed to be tho American continent. Aug. 18.— We continued to run at the rate of three and a hall miles in the hour, among pieces of heavy ice, against some of which we could not avoid striking; receiving many hard blows, but no damage. At four, however, it became so thick, and the ice so close, that we could penetrate no further, and therefore made fast to a floe which we supposed to be near the point in question, since we had run about twenty miles. The depth of water was at first twenty- two fathoms; but wo soon increased it to thirty-three by drifting. There were sufficient indications that the wind had continued true north, and therefore that we had steered south and a little easterly. About ten the weather cleared, so as to enable us to see our way to the westward ; and we cast off" from the floe to which we had made fast when we had first stopped, since it still continued drifting to the north-east. We then stood to the westward through ice which was often so thick as entirely to stop our progress; and, after much labour bv warping, got within sight of the land, which was low and encum- bered by a continuation of the reef of rocks which we had pre- viously seen. As it was, however, possible that there might be a deep channel near the land, I determined to cross this reef, which we accordingly attempted in a depth of four fathoms, at first, which gradually shoaled into two, thus leaving us little mure water than we could vcndini (o May in, Here we made fast to a Hoe, and sen. l«o gi ^ERY if this and of the tide, deemed to lead to the lies distant. It soon, ^ badly, we made little rock which seemed to ts pnhe inlet in view Near this rock there njoying themselves in lear the ship. When- eals were roused up, the northward, ena- erably clear of ice till pose, it was stopped, the weather became course by the wind : >ur being able to per- hus lead us into peril. /as by working to the I which we presumed [e of three and a hall igainst some of whicii y hard blows, but no I :, and the ice so close, | refore made fast to a | in question, since we i ter was at first twenty- rty-three by drifting, id had continued true li and a little easterly. 5 us to see our way to ) which we had made continued drifting to e which was often so after much labour by was low and encum- which we had pie- that there might be a cross this reef, which tlioms, at first, which ttle more water than Jst to a floe, and sen*. "* TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ithe boat (orw^d ^ sound; thus discovering that there was no „as ^ We werefavoured in this by the wind shiftin- a little more to #e westwanl, and were enabled to reach the deep waJe^blsK .^ clock. We could not, however, discover how far we had oro teeded since yesierday, since we had no observations TnlZ hodmg on nevertheless, we forced our way thro^h "l danes of j^ater and the loose ice before us ; receivingmany othe sovo e rubs Aug, 19.--We continued to stand to the southward withoiw i.. Ind fhT^ r u^' """''^ ^"'^- This was done at' KWcToo and he weather becoming clear a little befi.re eight wo foumi .h„; ^he land bore from north-north-west to south bv Ts an^ t. jearese poin,. ,,hich was about three miles off, Lst by noi^^ ^here were now forty-five fathoms water; but we we^^l chfsclv he M by the ice, which, as it was drifting down on the Zr« iflv i" k were fastened, carried this on the'ext^ ?"eward 'VirK,':;'' lirelv extS.;i„?'t'"'i"!'"'^'.^? '' '« «!'' "« '»'« "•«««« of en ^cross the stern. i^ot long after, some fresh masses of ice lifted I'^j f 88 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY the Krusenslern nearly out of the water, and turned our own head to the shore; but after this we lay quiet all night, in depths varying from fifty-five to thirty-two fathoms; while, by the marks on the land, we could see that we were drifting southward with the whole body pf ice. At midnight the temperature of the air was 36% and that of the water 30"; the nearest land being about four miles off. Aug. 20.--The weather was more clear this morning than it had been since Sunday, and we had a good view of this newly-dis- covered land, which extended from north 25" west to south 20 east. We had been drifted so close to the low point nearest iis, iliat carrying the characters of the preceding in our eye, we could see that this consisted of the same limestone. It was a smooth tract, as far as it was visible, which was over an extent of ten miles, without either depressions or rising grounds. That behind it offered, as it had done before, a complete contrast of character; having the luggedness and irregularity of surface which marks the granite or analogous rocks, and the atmospheric colouring making it appear of a dark blue. The coast was broken and hollow vd into little bays, aud skirted by rocks and small islands; one of which appeared about a mile in length, elevated at the western side, and terminating in a low point to the eastward ; whence we concluded that such was the general elevation and tendency of the limestone, flat as it might have ap- peared to us when seen in a different direction. The latitude ob- served here at noon was 70" 59', and the longitude 93° 2'. The ice still continued closely packed and drifting, with several lanes of water among it. Many whales were seen, together with some seals; but we could not contrive to take any of the latter. The soundings exhibited fragments of granite and limestone; and the temperature of the air and water were, rer^„„tively,39''and 32". We aired the small sails and the people's clothes ; and several !^ matters were done in the ship in the carpenter's department, and in | that of the engineer; esp3cially in clearing the pipes of the coke ; dust by which they were choked. The wind was variable during the day; and, by the marks on the shore, we could see that we drifted, sometimes to the northward and at others to the southward, as the ice moved ; invariably deep- ening the water in the latter direction, and finding it vary from' 42 to 69 fathoms, with a calcareous muddy bottom and stones. The motion and state of the ice formed an anxious subject, to those especially to whom this region was new : we, who were expe- rienced, were easily consoled for such detention as this, by recol- lectinrf how much further we had already penetrated than former expeditions, though under the many disadvanlaires by which we i had been attended. There was not, indeed, any immediate prospect 5RY urned our own head tit, in depths varying iy the marks on the ward with the whole the air was 36°, and out four miles olF. morning than it had V of this newly-dis- i" west to south 20 L>w point nearest us, n our eye, we could t was a smooth tract, extent of ten miles, 'hut behind it offered, haracter; having the narks the granite or ng making it appear tie bays, aud skirted ared about a mile in lating in a low point ich was the general s it might have ap- I. The latitude ob- tude 93" 2'. rifting, with several seen, together with e any of the latter, and limestone-, and ..lively, 39" and 32". lothes ; and several } department, and in e pipes of the coke by the marks on the IS to the northward ed ; invariably deep- inding it vary from ' bottom and stones. )us subject, to those e, who were exp^ n as this, by recol- etrated than former tages by which wc immediate prospect TO THE ABCflC UEG10N8. 60 tr a release; and even we who had acquired experience from other ioyages m these regions, were somewhat disconcerted by findinc ftat a formation of new ice was commencing on the holes near |e ships side; the thermometer, for the first time, falling as low il 29" m the water, while the air was only 30". Still we thought lat the clear water near the land was increasing in dimensions, and le great packs of ice becoming slacker. CHAPTER IX. Htcmptsto Work along Shore-Discovery of Port Logan-Land Jhere-tracP« nf . Esquimaux-Labouring among the Ice-Discovery of Elfzabeth SJur I. J?';'^' ^! "7^° ^^'^ ''"y ^he«"e was a great and sudden change of m^pr^"""^ temperature It was again, to the feelings, hke a jmmer day in England, and the thermometer rose to 38» as that f the sea d.d to 3I»; this change having commenced, a° fou o'clock .the morning. Much of the new ice dissolved, therefore, mo e a appeared open, and we had an excellent view of the land ; the Itmosphere being as clear as the air was caln . 1 heshore still displayed the same flat features, forming a crescent about sixteen miles in extent, and to the north of the point wS e sKrn ^' '\'' f^'''. " ^"'^" '^'^"'^ ^^« disceJuible! anS he si ore still seemed skirted by small rocky islands, which an- eared o form niany harbours and creeks, wiwere nit more thTn bin- rndes from the beach; but could not by the telescope d scover lonTn^'Tr"? '"'"P"^" large whales' At noon the obse^va- lons showed that we were a mile and a half further south than on te day preceding, but we had no sights for the longitude. S Ihe ship continued beset, and went on drifting with the ice in II directions, as the wind chanced to vary, while the denth of ih^ ater increased to 87 fathoms. The men';errempIoyed'.t^^^^^^^^ Sr a Jd trt ' ''""' ''k' ^'^«"« ^"-^ '^' «"Sine, a'nd'in fining iack n« of - time. ^ ^ luunei .We were, fortunate nevertheless, in having secured ourselves to i.s immovable rock of .ce ; since, as the evening came on, the #ole pack which we had quitted began to drift with great vdo- ly to the northward showing us what our own fate would have len had we remamed with it. The ice to which we were fast as aground m seven fathoms ; and after this the water rose above [ur feet: the t.de tegmning here to the southward, while that in le offing was running in the contrary direction. The weather mg cloudy, no observations were made, but aPSi^ht ,e air was at 32" and the water at 30". Ma'ny seals we^tfn Id he lead brought up limestone. Our , %ion was in th^ luthl'rd." '" ''"'*' ""' "" '^' '''''' '" ''- '^'-d "« !he Aug. 25.-We had fully resolved to trv the steam, but the wind or/ ihi'^"7! I' '''^°'' '°"^' '' '^' '^'^^ cogree, hough no lore, that would have rendered it useless, feeble as was aU the )wer It could exert. On no occasion was this wanrof power lore provoking; since if it could but have forced us two mSes an lew, which was about sixteen miles off. We tried what we co . d % but to nopurpose ; so that we were obliged to conso?o oursel el being at least q«.et and in a better place than the oneTatwc .hill!,; "" m" ^'^ ""^ ^"^''^ "'""y ""'«« to tfae northward .^l^^fV^X^'^^ ^"/'' ""'' ^'''^ •"«" ^'t'' "« this day, the current I steadily to the northward ; in consequence of which there was ) returning .ce to annoy us. All that we wanted wa a air w^nd the passage along the land was clear; yr even this wani as probably m our favour as matte, a weie situated -since bv Cl^woddrbT ''' *^"«^'^^ '« whidl't'^ierSe irected, ,t would probably g.ve us a still clearer sea in no long Though the wind increased considerably towards eveninir tbn rather became much warmer, and, to our grearioy Ihe e ^ame .r mtffr morT;! ^\ """" V'^ ""^'"'''^ '«'"" ^^ ^«« 7(? 54' soahvLnipV"'! '^""'" 7^'' '^•""'' •^'' "•"• '««< observation aud : ,^ ';;^"^iP--'' '^''c^"-"-. At noon the air was at i-ontin.jr;i:^;.rs:;..t::rL?'^^^^^ n.-Al ».x o Clock this morning it became quite calm, and i... n SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY i *, the ice being sufficiently open to the southward, the water smootli, and no current, the engine was put in action, but performed so badly that we made no more than one mile in the hour, not being able to obtain more than seven revolulious in a minute. We passed the low point near which we were moored, in seven fathoms water, at the distance of two miles from the beach, and then gradually dropped into eighteen, when we opened the entrance of a spacious bay exposed to the south-east. At the bottom of this there appeared to be a stream, and the land that we were approacbin; was more rugged and lofty ; consisting, in that part, of what agaio seemed to he granite, while, below, it appeared to be limestone, as before, with many loose fragments. Within a mile of the sliorf the water deepened to fifty fathoms ; but even here we found thai the large icebergs were aground, touching the rocks in mnii) places. About four o'clock a fog came on, but we were able to keep tin land in sight by sailing within a quarter of a mile of it. At sevcc Commander Ross was sent to look for a harbour in the bay, m he was fortunate in finding a very good one, which I named Wn- Logan. We entered it at eight, the water being shoaler, and the icebtii: grounded at such a distance from the shore as to give us an excrl lent pier harbour within them, with twelve feet at low water, an our stern not above fifty fathoms from the rocks. This was, however, a safe position, notwithstanding that pi'o\ imity and the small depth of water, since the icebergs were imiiioi able. We landed at nine to take possession, and walked tlirci miles, up a valley of a much more pleasing character than lli' general aspect of the country had led us to expect. It was travnsft by a river, through the channel of which a small stream was no> running, but which bore the marks of being a considerable toriTi during the melting of the snows. This river was named the Ma( ] doiial. We saw here the recent marks of deer and of the ruiiN ox, and also shot a white hare. Aug. 27. — This day was a continued calm, and though (of,i in the morning, sights were obtained for the chronometers, ascended with Commander Hoss to the precipice at which the stnj was fast, which seemed about 200 feet high, but our view was nh structcd by much higher land to the southward and westward. W saw no animals ; hut the traces of hears, deer, and ptarmigan wpp visible in many places. This hill was of granite, so ns to coiirirn our eonjeciures respecting the higher lands at a greater dislanr* and was intersected by veins of quartz; and, at its foot, with gnimiij h-agiiienis, there wore also masses of whitish liinesionc, with si lid, the water staooili, on, but performed so a. the hour, not being a minute. We passed I seven fathoms water, I, and then gradually entrance of a spacious bottom of this there we were approaching at part, of what agaio red to be limestone, m n a mile of the shore en here we found tl»i g the rocks in mw were able to keep tin I mile of it. At sevcc rbour in the bay, an« , which I named Per oaler, and the iccbci|! IS to give us an excel feet at low water, an; )cks. ithstanding that pro; icebergs were irniiiov ion, and walked tlire! ig character than tin :pcct. It was travnsft small stream was not a considerable torra ^ was named the 'Mao deer and of the tuu» Itn, and though (of.i the chronometers, ipicc at which the slui , hut our view was o\> n\ and westward. V r, and ptarmigan wcf initc, so ns lu coiiliro at a greater di»(anc( ; nt ils foot, with granikj limestone, witli bhrn ^J TO THE AKCTIC REGIONS. gg fnbedded in the slaty strata that accompanied it. There was very |ttle vegetation, but the margins of two small lakes on the summit fere surrounded by lichens and mosses. , This, and all the adjoining land, was entirely clear of snow ; and »e water of the lakes stood at 30", while the air was to-day as'high f 42'. Obtaining here a meridian altitude of the sun , we found ie latitude to be 70" 48', and the longitude 93° 19', giving 92" 48' then corrected by that of Fury point. The dip of the magnetic fiedie was 89o 46 west. After these needful observations, we >ok possession of this continuation of our discoveries, according to ic usual forms, selecting another elevated spot for this purpose It that part of this coast the land was undulated into hills and illeys; most of the latter containing lakes abounding in small fish )out three mches long, not unlike trout described among the other rticles m natural history, hereafter. We obtained some dozens [y means of our net; but it was too large in the meshes to secure •" many as we might otherwise have taken. We hence proceeded to a hill about 300 feet high, live miles irther to the southward, from the top of which we had a most itislactory view. The land appeared to extend in a south-westerly nection from the island, and, to the eastward of south, all was k'aier for a space of thirty miles ; the ice being such as to give us very prospect of getting through whenever the wind should be- come lair, since it was vain to reckon on the assistance of the engine |ny longer. We here fell in with a covey of ptarmigan, and killed \nZT r "^w^'r '>' ^^"^ only other bird we saw, a snow untmg I-rom the furthermost point of the bay in which we lay, nd at the distance of six miles, there appeared an inlet, or bay bout two miles deep: the point which was to the southward of it htcnding considerably to the eastward, while off its northern one liei-e was an island which seemed, on its north side, to have a good arbour about half a mile in circumference, which 1 named Moltke >::y, giving the name of Bjornstjerna to the inlet itself. 1 he narrow and low island lying to the eastward of this, appeared fot more ban a quarter of a mile long and twenty yards wide beinK barcely elevated above the water, and seeming to offer a passagS etween ,t and the shore. It was named ^tosea Island. From Z 'I'thern extremity the land trends to the south-south-east, present- H a succession ol points and harbours which we had occasi2d as bearing souUi 14" K land appeared to trend more to the westward; and we were jow sure that the furthest point we saw was the same ibn. hnr. ^miu oi US wMcn lying at the floe on that .'uy. >^c returned at nine, after au inters .M walk, but which had 94 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY r;* -^i« rjff n^^ ''''?"°",' "'""S the shore, in consequence of the fra. .han ever 10 regret Ihe ill performa»ee of This wre.cS Irhit' since we migh. easily have made Ihirt, mile,/wrl„e ofThe 'o I .noderate power. A. mid„igh. ,he weLher ^as .hick aad fo^r^' Aug, ^8._0ur hopes of proceeding on this Hav xv^^Ja- pointed by the wind cling to'the eastward onrth^ohat^Z .ng the night the ice was set in upon the land, and among ha ifl and heavy floe which impeded a!l passage The tS wea^i?' which accompanied this change would indeed have been inTelf complete jmpedinjent, since, for want of the compass. allnavS on •s m.poss.ble under such circumstances. At one me the'ce an pea.ed to be floating against the wind, which was hgr and tiward^ tt%Tut;a';r^ ^''^ ^'-^^^^ ^"-^-^' ^-eturneMSt The sails were however loosed, and warps laid out, in expectation that the weather might so lar clear up as^o enable us l«7disco .r some channel : but the fog continued so dense the whole da Ta at e ght we gave up ail hopes, and furled the sails. The wind n deed now freshened so much, that we thought orseves foJunlte' ... not havmg started as we at first wished. We found it exTS Kr tSC3.:;.:r '•^^- '" -^- --^^^^^^^ Jttocigs slioull Jloat and carry us Imther up the bav amonir M,p dangerous rocks and shoals which wo had there seen iZt 1 rose three leef, the high water being exactly at noon and the ebb at ..x: he temperature of the air being Si^Ldthat of tt. wato 32 . INeverlhelcss the ,ce seemed to be dissolving fast around i^ UH.,gh some heavy Hoes were drifted into the mo I of Z bar ^^iSTicZgs.""^*"^'"- - -« -- -» P.o,e<::JVZ: As wo would not venture on shore to-day, for fear of a chango ilt !) A. feet six jione, it Itlie irr( [of antic jiitances Ithat the [rise higl Thei ^lown, causes si still thin lie motii tas in tj jlo ihe SOI At foi H't-med a >eon driv li'om the >'i reach i |i'e\\ard s lierefore -ached a Before |»' the ice i V' seen. \oi back ( hade no p I ft also on pcedy pre »'«*, howev \y ascendii .Seeing i RY qnence of the frag- ''oggy; and towards ;th-west. The tide ore full moon; but velocity. ve had found about c, situated between vere of such recent Wch they had been ndeer's horns and the natives. which were once ire reason to-day vretched machine, th one of the most thick and foggy. i day were disap- >rth: so that, dur- , among it, a large he thick weather ve been in itself a ass, all navigation e time the ice ap- liglit, and towards ed and floated to »ut, in expectation )le us to discover s whole day, that I. The wind in- irselves fortunate ound it expwd'eiit secure the ship iiorth; and as i' m to fear lest the bay, among the been. The tide oon and the ebb hat of the water ? fast around us, uuth of the bay; lolectcd by the TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. „ ^, ill our favour, it was employed in examining and preserving *t, specimens m natural history that had been colllot^a il?f l^- ^^^ , A ready method of cleansing the seal skTns wt fo„n^ K^ ''''^''"• I them overboard, where they were rlderedTee of p ^ ^"""1^ f of flesh and blubber by the shrimnr inTh. i r^^^'^ P^''''«'« had the good fortune to recover a riflp v^hloh u^a r ii ^® J.e .„o(,„„ „o, alway. greate. ,„»„..* .irsoS when 'the S 'wte".°„Tic'krrhl° f™ ';r' '"'"' ""' "»'-"-™'- »'"<""-' ,,, S , ''"'""' «»»»!''«""' »"«lves forcnale i , ..S 1 n^ "»;;:, ^Tari''"'''™"'"'' '" »" "■'«'■' '■° ■" ^ progress. Hamini^ now once more, while it blew hn.,! N howev oK' no.clear water could he seen from the ship. ..TJZ'^lTf.r^"!^^ « considerable tract m the olIinL "- " ■•' '^'c "ifc-iirr groiiiitl uii the "' - ear of a change m ^^eing now that (her was no chance of proceeding (ill (he wind 96 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY )'il '¥. C* lU changed, an additional hawser was carried out to a rock for further seciirity, in the evening; and another in themornjng, after we had found that the tide had risen so high as to float the icebergs ; lest we should be altogether drifted out, or at least be carried further up the bay. At sunset, however, the weather had a more settled ap- pearance: yet this was of short duration. It Soon afterwards be- came cloudy, with the wind from the east; and at midnight we had our first fall of snow. The gales became then very strong from the north-east, and the ice was packed close round the outside of the bay ; but the icebergs still defended us from its pressure. The tern perature of the air was 34", and that oFthe water 32". Aug. 30.— During the night it blew a strong gale, but the tido rose only five feet six inches; and as the icebergs did not move, tlie ship lay in perfect security. . As it was high water half an hour earlier than on the preceding night, we had additional proof in tbe irregularity of the tides in this strait^ caused, unquestionably, by (he complicated action of the winds and the drifting ice. In the moi n ing the hills were covered with snow ; a sight which was very fai from agreeable, though we had no reason to expect aught else. Ye( we had no much reason to complain, though we should eventualiv have been stopped here; since we had already penetrated further, by a hundred and twenty miles, even during this very short summer of ours, than any previous expedition had done in two years. This being Sunday, was made a day of rest. The gale continued from the north-east the whole day, accorii panied by snow and sleet, the temperature of the air being at U and that of the sea at 32". Both the ebb and the flood had so diminished, that the difference was scarcely two feet : and we could now see that out little harbour was the only secure place on (lie coast, all the rest being closely beset by ice. But we still expected that the wind would remove these fragments,, and that we slionlc be able to make some miles of progress before the winter should lairly set in. Aug. 31.— This morning the land was entirely covered by snow, and there was no more of the usual blue colour to be seen. Oncf more the tide rose five feet and a half, and the ice was closelj packed all round. As the day advanced the snow turned to sleel, and at length to a steady rain; the temperature of the air risiiii,' afterwards to 37". With this, the snow on the hills began Co mell and disappear. Going on shore, a lane of water was found to have made its appearance in the south, and another in the east, while ilic ice began also to slacken both to the northward and southward ol our harbour. The rivers were found much swollen, but no aiiiuuil^ were seen. \ This day the water only rose two feet and a hall. Sept. J.— At four in the morning, u» there appeared a possibi ERY to a rock for further lornjog, after we had )at the icebergs ; lest be carried further up id a more settled ap- fioon afterwards be- I at midnight we bad very strong from the id the outside of the pressure. The tem- ter 32°. ig gale, but the tide gs did not move, the water half an hour Iditional proof in the iqucstionably, by tlie g ice. In the moin- which was very far pect aught else. Yet /e should eventually f penetrated further, i very short summer in two years. This whole day, accom- the air being at 'Si d the flood had so ' feet : and we could secure place on (he Hut we still expected and that we should B the" winter should ly covered by snow, V (0 be seen. Onco the ice was closclj low turned to sleet. 'e of (he air risiiii! i hills began lo niell r was found to have n the cast, while ilic I and southward ol •lien, but no nnitii.ii>> ;et and a hall, jppeared a possibi TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. or lity of working the shin into clear she hauled i, we contrive * water iceberg, and, by the aid of a north-north- wesi wind, we contrive ^ to steer along the land in a south-east by south cou? e We "pa d outside the low island, and then bore up for the outermost E wealfer'anS^fr?'"'^ of our position,%rom the thicknes o^the weather and he frequent changes of course we were obliged o make m working through the ice. But it cleared at seven o as to .show us the land, bearing from south 88" east to soulh 'a„d a| o from south to sonth-south-west. It was the island whfch we had Zn Vr"'"'*'' ''"' ''' ^'^'^"'^^ P''«^'^"ncl ... a northerly direction toiethpn '^^r'''"^ '"'' "''^^^««" ""'^^ tude, during 'the th^rLu ft ^rt taf H° ""f- J" '°"^'- , the ice. ^°'^" ^^ "ad been driving with dis;tn:!rti;:lr:!:i;iS ^-r^^-^ •>- . a greater destined not to quit. FofcinL tL «^ \'k''^^^^ ;ve at last cleare'd the wl o e^ck. wL'en [h7' 7t ''''''' '«''' iiltle, we made up all the wav th^I iT'i . "^""^ favouring us a got hold of the land, mad^flsr at t M ' f"'^ '''^^'"^ «g«'» aground in f,ve fathoms and abm.fr u "" 'J^^' ^° «" '««'>«''S «hore. It rained hard U H midnil? I I'' ^"""^''^ y""'^' '"''«'» 'he hvo whales on this eveni„rS '/"* T' ?'"'"'>' *'"'"'• ^e saw clear between the pack S 7^Zt l"f'' '""^ '^' ^^^^-^ ^«« by large icebergs. the shore, while we were surrounded weaX';7tiL'^tclTd"tm''" ^ "r '^"^^'«^' -"'--"y olivine service we Jem on shore7n^p E ?" ^"^ P''««««'^'"g- After as our present place was a verv "" ^ * - '"'' '''"'" ''"'''""'• ^he boat, aboiL q'^'e'rf JmrlT- *^"'«'-'"fe'«» 'nlet with fathoms; and, foIlLrg it fo ™ mi^ ' T 'T^'^ '" ^'f**'^" spacious harbour, having twentvf«r' '"''/""'"^ '^ *^P«° '"»« « ing gradually to the siief We'herl ?'"' '" *''^•«'d^'«' «nd «hoai: ''ad taken for an island the n^.h^K f ^''''^^^"^^ ^^^t what we '•arbour was named El'izlbetiri^ o V ^"^ " P^"'''^"'^- The patron of our expedition ' •^•""'''""^"t '^-a sister of the vvetVaretrn^ ?T''«' — ^ling what ' ient distance to makTus wast « [""^^'f P"^^«^ «' « «"«" as we proceede: rascend the h 7*" ^^ •"'' '" ''"'"'"" "'' 'lad a perfect vIpu, JTl V *° ^''^ southward. Hence we '•eforeE iTdt'e ttZll^Jr'^' '^ ^^^ ^ ^''^ -"'" 'ent or nature. The purs^t of «n ? ^ J"^' estimate of its ex- "ot, however, tempt us to „.oln ^^''' ""'^''^ ^« «««'' did -ver that the'ieeTas "d^iL^gT^rur ' '"" ^"^ ^'^"''^ '^'■•^- 7» 100 JilKCOND VOYAOE OF DISCOVERY '*' I CIIAPTEK X. AUompt (o quit Eliztibotli Iliirlmiir— Slow Progress along Shore— Critical Position of the Ship ainoiig W.r lee, niid Escape through Perilous Passage— Discovery oi Eclipse llarliour— Furllier Discoveries— Cape St. Catherine and Lax Harbour. Havini; returned on board by two o'clock, we made sail there- lore frotn the icol)orf?, and entering into the harbour, moored the ship to a small one in seven fathoms, not lar from the beach. A boat was then dispatched to see -if there was any exit on the southern or eastern side ; ^ut the result was, that we had entered by the only opening, as it was also found that it was separated from the strait without, by a narrow range of limestone about three miles long, level and straight. The boundary to the westward was of high land, antl that to the north consisted of lower hills inter- spersed with lakes containing fish : the rocky point and peninsula where we had first taken possession forming its eastern side. The granite here presented many varieties, and was studded with garnets, probably in the veins, which we did not take suiiicientcarc to distinguish at tho time. 1 now indeed suspect, that on this and other occasions, what I have termed granite was gneiss ; a mistake which is often easily made by those who are not practised mine- ralogists; butaslccnid notcoii-" pecimens at every place that was visited, and as i could not bring home even all those which were collected, for future examination, this very unimportant error. if such it be, nuist remain. In the evening, landing at the north side, and ascending the heights in that (|uarter, we obtained a still better view of thi« splendid harbour, in wKich the whole British navy might safely ride. Except at tho ed',es, it was clear of ice, though a few ice- bergs seemed, like ourselves, to have taken refpge here ; but we saw no marks of any shoals or rocks within it. In many parts there were five fatboms^water close to rocks on the shore, wbere vessels might lie as at a pier, and where they might also heave down and repair damages ; and, from marks on the margin, we judged ibaf there were eight feet of rise at spring tides : the present, which was neap, rising ' at four. Sept. 7. — In the evening it blew hard from the northward, bringing the ice past the place which we had left, and packing up the whole channel to the southward. But we were safe, and quiet; ever, 10 SB", ^ nished^ a Thegi re — Critical Position »8sage — Discovery oi and Lax Harbour. made sail there- aur, moored the tn the beach. A any exit on the , we had entered it was separated stone about three le westward was ower hills inter- nt and peninsula astern side. The as studded with ike sufiicientcare that on this and gneiss ; a mistake practised mine- every place that I all those which limportant error, nd ascending the Iter view of this avy might safely hough a few ice- je here ; but we many parts there re, where vessels heave down and , we judged thai B present, which 3 1 the norlhwanl, , and packing up % B safe, and quiet : TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,(,, With the security that if this ice should clear away, we could easily jrel out by aid ol the tide, and take advantage of the opening The temperature of the air was from 34" to 35", and that of the water :i2\ At midnight there was rain, the wind continuing fresh It rained heavily all the morning, and a good deal ofs'uail ice drifted into the harbour, proving that there was a considerable quantity moving along the strait with the current. We therefore proceeded in the boat, to examine into the condition of things out- side, more particularly, and landed on the northern isthmus We thus saw, that at the back of the great isthmus, the quantitvof ice was much dimmished since the preceding day, while there was ■» bay to the eastward quite clear ; but, near the mainland, it was slill closely packed. The west side of the southern islands, how ever, were also clear of ice. In this exc-sion we nw son.e lem-dcer, and shot three white hares. The air felt warm • but on board, the thermometer was only 36", the weather being calm' with a thick fog. ' Sept. 8. — Though things remained in the same state till noon we expected a wind, and therefore left the harbour by means of the ebb and ol towing; making fast to an iceberg at the entrance that we might be ready. But the wind coming now from the south south-east, we could proceed no further, and I therefore sent a parly (oexamme the state of things along shore, in the whale boat, which was, however, obliged to stop after proceeding two miles. Ueinu then hauled up, the party p-oceeded by land along the isthmus, and ihus saw that the ice was closed up to a rock at its termination so as to prevent all further passage in this direction. Two rocky is- lands and a good harbour were also seen in this quarter ; as it wus fur- ther ascertained, that while the chore was covered with heavy ice the channel of moving ice and water lay between it and the heavy pack which was about three miles off. The evening being calm, and the ice stationary, Commander Ross went on shore to take angles, and in his way found a dead deer which we had wounded on our lirst landing. It was so large that they could only bring on board the head and horns, Icavimr it for the next day to remove a carcase too valuable to bo lost. IMon were also sent to erect a cairn of stones to mark the entrance of the har- bour, otherwise difficult to fmd, in case we should bo obliged to return to it. Landing, myself, afterwards, I obtained a good view rom the north side, of the several places that we had passed kil- ling also two hares. At eight the wind was light, and southerly, with clear weather in the night, the temperature of the air from 34" to 36", and that of the water 32". Our fresh water was rcnle- The geological structure of this f.art of the coast exactly rcsem- nis 10-2 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY bled wlia' we had loimely examined, willi perhaps more varieties ol" granite, or gneiss; the whitish shale of the hmestone containing shells as before. The soundings were in clay so tough as to require great force to extract tin; lead from it. Some sandstone was also observed here; and in many of the small bays there were accumu- lations of white sand, which, however, might equally have been furnished by the granite. There was no wood : a heath, with stems about an inch thick, being the largest plant growing. Near the sea the land was generally bare; but, inland, there were plains and val- leys of considerable extent, covered with vegetation; each of the latter containing a lake, of which the largest seemed about two miles long, as many of them were but large pools. These, as beforr, were full of fish, which we then had no means of taking. Many hares, far from shy, were concealed among the rocks, and tracks of reindeer were seen near tjie shore. On the north side the re- mains of Esquimaux summer habitations were numerous, together with fox-traps and bones of whales; but all of so old a date as to show that it was long since this part of the shore had been inhabited. Sept. 9. — It was quite calm all this day, with an occasional light air from the southward, sufficient, with the current, to pre- vent us from making any progress. Notwithstanding this, we hauled still further out, *'■> be in readiness in case of a favourable change. It froze so hard in the previous night, that the harbour was covered with bay ice; insomuch that the whale boat which had been sent for the deer could scarcely make her way througli it. Towards evening, however, it was ail dis.solved, as was that which had been formed in the lakes. £ven at three o'clock it was like a summer's day in England; and, though close to the iceberg, the temperature on board was 38", while on shore it was 41°. This, indeed, had an unfortunate effect on our deer, which, though but three days killed, was only fit for the dogs. We here built a cairn on the highest hill on the north side of the harbour. Sept. 10. — A slight breeze coming from thp v;orlfr-west at day- light, we left the iceberg <♦ half-past three, au«i stood )ut among the loose ice under all sail; steering throu;.,< ?.' ..i. anes and openings which led towards the south-east, ijisi at two o'clock the wind came directly against us ; and it was with much difficulty we reached an iceberg which was aground about half a mile east- ward of the islands described on the second of September, and about eight miles from our last station. After two hours, how- f • r, tJK ice set in with such rapidity, that we were obliged to ■ast oit, when a more favourable breeze enabled us to reach a nau harbour i'- the passage between the islands and the main, V, lie ice we we; j able to warp into a situation for the night. Thus we vere enabled to land on the islands; and, having I It ' ps more varielies estone containing tough as to require andstone \vas also re were accumu- qually have been heath, with stems ig. Near the sea re plains and val- ition; each of the seemed about two These, as before , Df taking. Many rocks, and tracks lorth side the re- merous, together I old a date as to id been inhabited, ith an occasional ; current, to pre- tandiog this, we e of a favourable that the harbour 'hale boat which her way through lived, as was that •ee o'clock it was se to the iceberg, jhore it was 41°. ur deer, which, dogs. We here of the harbour. )r!J' -west at day- stood out among ' .1. fines and i at ivvo o'clock h much difficulty half a mile east- September, and wo hours, how- were obliged to ed us to reach a Is and the main, the night, ds; and, having TO THE ARCTIC JirGION.S. ,03 ascended the highest summit near us, we had a good viewoftho state ot the ice, which was such as to make us resolve to attemot a passage between the rocky islands and the point, so as to get hold of the mamland The ship was therefore warped, with much 0.1 and hazard, through a narrow and rocky sound leading to the channel, and made fast to an iceberg, and to the rocks, from wh.chiho w.. not more than half her length distant, in three fa ho.j.s water. It was not, however, a good place; since the ice set both ways, alternately, with great rap.dity, so as to be in con- iiiah2 t'lOtion. Angleswere here taken from a cairn which we erected on the TSffl.t*'""^ f °"t '\''' ^""'*'-«** f««'' «"^ ^•'^t^hes made The lurthest projectmg land was an island bearing south-east at a considerable distance from the point of the mainland 't1^ ln"„!Td n '. 'fr^' T ^^'"'' ^^ ^^••^ «««™«d ^bout a mile long, and the land formed a great bay, in which we counted nine islands and some clusters of islets; together with two inlets, and some openings that seemed to constitute three good harbours Here we also concluded that our best chance of proceeding ap-' peared to be by the channel within these islands, and close to the raainlanc ; as the ice was all broken up, though thick and heavy and was likely to move with the first favourable wind The islands on which we now were, turned out to consist of gneiss, I presume, disposed in inclined beds with vertical fissures • and m two hit le valleys there was some vegetation, though the greater part of the surface was quite bare. The%spect of desolation was indeed extreme ; nor did we see the trace of any living creature. The temperature of (he air was 34', and that of the water 31" «,..?■ V ". '??'^''^ "°**®^ '^'* °'S*»t at half-past twelve ; but Zk« i!l'"'''^^'^^f,?.T''"°S''' ^°^^^^^' ^'th ourselves, to the rocks withm a small bight on the side of the stream; while, as it drej more water than the ship, it kept us from grounding; allowing iatnou.a water After a foggy morning, there appeared, at one some chance of moving, as there was a fresh breeze from the north- hn. r u altfmpt, however, was made in vain; and, after three shin''',..?*!" ''"''' Yr '^^y'** "^''^^'' P''°«««'^' "O"- e'^t^cate the snip, so that we were obliged to submit ourselves to the ice, which was now closely packed in the whole channel which it occupied, u was in vafn that we attempted to disengage ourselves, even when 't got mo motion; labouring hard for this purpose till ten o'clock: and eas °"*'"" '"^ *^ midnight, we became comparatively tranquil Sent. 19! \r„..-_a.«i— :. . . ranJ '" v.^"'""'"^« " was a cniicaS p-sition, bes. the ■•ipia cur.ent ol a rocky channel, at the spring tides of the auiu.unaJ 1U4 SECOND VOYAGE OF UIHUUVEHV »^ equinox; and, as the tide rose, tlie heavy nmsHOS of ico which wore set alloat increased our danger, its action I'orcing them on us. We therefore thought ourselves lucky in {polling hold of a grounded iceberg; though the points of rocks were H|)|»nnring all around, and close by our ship. I'nloi Innately, howovor, Ik*'. i of ico which wore ii'cing them on ns. hold of a grounded ing uli around, and wind springing up ml quantity of ice, o; when the whole hll'ul rapidity, car- lot a collision and nicks, which was I ourselves near to some time doubtful 3 might not rather in all sides, some ?ood fortune pre- rnmost and widest d, and therefore, oiu> success, such us to extricate the iiich, making her [i» near (he point selves thus secure ig our way to this nometimes heeled H once thrown out liny injury. W(! !U(uro of this kind !«i in the case oi in but too certain, mu, setting to (he I wo were carried t under water, at MO might succeed seemed to be still ing u small creek > r loourity. This, iving boon turned were oblij^cd (o infusion wilhonl. irselves t(» a mas.«. n Mtt*£»t%ti 1 :..^ ecu unduring. TO TiiE ARCTIC REGIONS. length 105 I We wers thus at length extricated, „.,. „„ heavy pressure; our iceberg carrying us to the westward "even agamsi a strong wind. The tide, however, diminished in force as we proceeded ; and as the smaller pieces of ice now sailing with us did not drilt so fast as that to which we were attached, the whole became at length so slack that we were able to make sail before noon, and at last got into clear water. The dang-er however, was not yet over; since we were subject to be carried back by the next tide, unless we could get out of its influence before the change. Hut the wind was right against us, and we could expect to make little progress with our sails, and sucli a vessel, by plying to windward; while, to anchor in a tideway like his, was out of the question. Thus we soon found that we were losing ground ; but at four o'clock we began to gain considerably, when It fell suddenly calm. A harbour now appearing not far off in the nearest land, we contrived to warp into it by means of the boats, and found good shelter behind a reef of rocks, lined by .cebepgs, withm a cable's length of the shore ; making fa.4 to two ol these masses which were aground in four fathoms water. Wore than I among us had witnessed similar scenes, and, in some manner or other, we had been extricated : but, with all this, we could not but feel astonishment, as well as gratitude, at our having escaped here without material damage. For readers, it is unfor- tunate that no descripE.on can convey an idea of a scene of this nature: and, as to the pencil, it cannot represent motion, or noise. And to those who have not seen a northern ocean in vvinter-who have not seen it, I should say, in a winter's storm-lhe term ice, InH ? t"' ''" ••««o"«ct.on of what they only know at rest, in an inland lake or canal, conveys no ideas of what it is the fate of an arctic navigator to witness and to feel. But let them remember that ice IS stone ; a lloatmg rock in the stream, a promontory or an Th?„ 7 a "^'■"""^'- "''' 'r?^"'^ '^'»» •'■'^ ^^^'^ '^ '«"d of granite. huZJ)l T '""***'"*'' '^ ^^''y '""' ^^'^'^ n««"ntains of crystal hu ed through a narrow strait by a rapid tide ; meeting, as moun- tains in motion would meet, with the noiso of thunder, breaking a nder, till, losing their former equilibrium, they fall over headlong. 11a 0?^.;''"^ '"r''"t'''*' ""-^ "•'"""« '^ '» ^•^•^i-^ -'"' lorU h! , " ''"'/r''^ ««»'"«' »''«^« '"assfs. or against the , u L n„ V "".' """^ ,'*'" '^'■'^^'"' •■''« '^"^ «'■ '"'« »*«« ti" H»«y 'all ose wh r'u ?'/'''^'"« *° "'' ''"««'*»^^"''«blo commotion\«,l noise which attend these occurences. :l''..!"'A'' "III"'' '"P' t» l^""^ and to feel <.,„• utter helplessness in 1 1. vHSc5. Th«3re i» ijoj what will happen in the next : thei a uiomcni in which it can be conjectured «' IS not one w hich may not be tf ic 106 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY lasl ; and yet that next moment may bring rescue and safely. It js a strange, as it is an anxious position; and, il' fearful, often giving no time for fear, so nnexpected is every event, and so quick the transitions. If the noise, and the motion, and the hurry in every thmg around, are distracting, if the attention is troubled to fix on anythmg amid such confusion, still must it be alive, that it may seize on the single moment of help or escape which may occur. Yet with all this, and i( is the hardest lask of all, there is nothing to be acted, no effort to be made : and though the very sigtit of the move- ment around inclines the seaman to be himself busy, while we can scarcely repress the instinct that directs us to help ourselves in cases of danger, he must be patient, as if he were unconcerned or careless; waiting as he best can for the fate, be it what it may, which he cannot influence or avoid. But I must not here forget the debts we owed to our ship on this as on other occasions before and afterwards. Her light draught of walerwasof the greatest advantage; and still more the ad- mirable manner in which she had been strengthened. It is plam that either of the ships employed on the former expeditions must have been here lost, from their mere draught of water, since they would have struck on the rocks over which we were hurried by the ice; while, however fortified, they would have been crushed like a nutshell, in consequence of their shape. Our position, after this adventure, was on the mainland, seven miles from the cairn which we had erected on the tenth; being not far from two harbours, one on each side of us; which 1 named. The night was clear, and it began to freeze at eleven. At mid- night there was a visible eclipse of the moon, but the weather did not permit of any observations. I named the place Eclipse har- bour; and we found high water, with a rise of seven feet, at a quarter before three, at full moon. Sept. 13. — Early in the morning I ascended the high land near the shore, by which I found that il was possible to proceed a few miles along the coast : and, after building a cairn and taking some angles, I returned on board, and we got under way at nine with a westerly breeze. We steered to the southward through new ice which offered little resistance; and, as wc proceeded, the heavy masses became more slack. Passing a rugged point, with icebergs aground, it received the name of Cape Allingt(»n, being the boundary here of the spacious harbour just mentioned by the name of Eclipse Harbour. We very soon rounded a cluster of islets, which, as equally new, t nameij uracc , and, ptiMing iheui, we saw a round isinnd, now also named Louisa. Within these, such channel as there seemed, ■; :ry uc and safely. It j^ earlul, often giving It, and so quick tho the hurry in every s troubled to fix on e alive, that it may ich may occur. Yel lere is nothing to he ' sight of the move- self busy, while we [0 help ourselves in ere unconcerned or what it may, which wed to our ship on Her light draught still more the ad- ihcned. It is plam former expedition.-< draught of water, ver which we were , they would have of their shape, on the mainland, cted on the tenth; 1 side of us ; which it eleven. At niid- ut the weather did place Eclipse bar- of seven feet, at a the high land near le to proceed a few 'n and taking somn way at nine with a •d through new ice ceeded, the heavy gged point, with /\l!ington, being the itiont:d by the name ich, as equally new, round island, now 2I as there sccnicd, TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 107 was full of ice; and iherefon « u A \ :i' "■■" :"V^'""'» passing to the eastward, wc ait- proached, at three o clock, a smooth rocky island about two m is ■ n crcumference. It being calm, we attempted to tow the hip between .t and the preceding ones; when the tide changed, and wS were glad to secure ourselves for the night to an iceberg hat wis rr^rin^icl: '^-^^ ^ ^-^ '-'-^ ^^^'^ - '^'- ^^^ .he^extSttrf'thtT i^r^r '^^''r »'»'hour,and seven from tie extremity ol the land to the southward. On inspection we obseived Iragments of limestone and of yellow sandstone Here rrne"an3theI'tr'''"P'''l ^" "'"'^'^^^^^ fastened the ^ hat uoin til """.^ ""«*"' '"''y "^ «'««•' «f the ice as far uld hLp?v 7 T""^^ '*'^^" "'"''« «•' n small bay to the north of .b„ rn„„ '^^iZSdi: Sl^T ^'"•"-— "•' l'«vingg;;ncon «hore. tnacu lUc hill on (ho point, wc saw that (he ice was still 108 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY i' !» I J i! P] ■I J iiioie open than it had been the day bel'ore, that the land trended more to the southward, and that the outermost portion was but an island, six or seven miles from the mainland. Many fine harbours were also visible, and the shore was intersected by inlets in every direction. Having taken the usual formal possession of this cape, since even ^hat which is nugatory or absurd must be done where custom dictates, a cairn and a beacon were erected, with the ship's name, and the date, on a plate of copper, as before. This cape was named Verner, and the harbour Joanna. The geology was here nearly w hat it had all along been : but one of the masses of granite formed a pyramid alike striking from its form and its dimensions, while we also perceived some coarse argillaceous schist. As the point on the north side of the harbour was the innst con- venient for observation, we erected a cairn here also, lor deter- | mining angles and laying down positions ^ though it was not likely to prove of much use hereafter in verifying the accuracy of the dis- coverers. Just before dark, the channel between the shore and a small island was cleared of ice by the rapidity of the ebb : but too late to allow us to attempt our way through it. The temperature of the air was from 35" to 36", and that of tile sea from 31" to 33" all this day; and the tide rose two feet less than it had done in ibc | night preceding. No animals nor any tracas of Esquimaux were seen. CHAPTER XI. A heavy Oalc: SiiccfirtRJoii orTei.ipestuoiiH WpntluT, with snow— Partial rU.'ariii(; or thr Ice, and cxtricntion from it — Disi;ovt>i' the iHlaiul of Andrew Kosh, Cape Margaret, Best Harbour, and Martin iHlandM— A new Hay — Enil oC Sejiteniher- (icncral Remarks oh the progress of the Ship nnd the mode ol' navigatiii); among Ice. SEPr.15. — The sky had. worn a very unsettled aspect on the preceding evening; and the wind, rising, increased to a storm dur- ing the night. Having also veered round to the northward, it brought around us a great quantity of heavy ice; .so that, at day- light, we found ourselves completely locked in, to our no sninll vexation, which was much augmented by strung clear water within a (juarter ol a mile. Kvery exertion was made to warp out, or to estriciiie ourseives in some manner: nut a whole forenoon of ban! labour gained ns scarcciv more than four times the length of om RY at the land trended portion was but an Many fine harbours ed by inlets in every session of this cape, nust be done where cted, with the ship's before. This cape The geology was le of the masses of m its form and its coarse argillaceous I- was the mn^t con- ere also, for deter- igh it was not likel) accuracy of the dis- een the shore and a of the ebb : but too The temperature ol ilrom 31 "to 32' all M I it had done in the of Esquimaux were TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. lOB ftfi 1 snow— I'artial clcariiii; I of Andrrw Ross, Cape ay — End ol' St'iitrnihi-r- thr mode of navigalint; ttlcd aspect on tlir jscd to a storm diir- o the northward, it ice; so that, at day- in, to our no small H clear water within le to warp out, or (o [)ie forenoon ol haii' C8 the length of om ship. At length the ice accumulated to such a degree that wo were obliged to abandon the attempt. ' j In the meantime the storm increased, with squalls of snow so as to render our situation both critical and uncomfortable ; since' we could not regain the harbour which we had so prematurelv left Thus exposed to the storm, the pressure of the ice was also to be feared, as the icebergs were accumulating on the shores of the cape which they -.ere too deep (o pass. At length the one to winch we were moored went afloat, giving us much trouble: while the largest one near us split into six pieces, with a noise like thun- der ; falling over and throwing up the water all around. One of these fragments gave our ship a violent shock ; and another, risiuR up beneath the Krusenstern, lifted her out of (he water on the ice sliled. '" "" "^ '"''"• ^^«'''""«^«'y "« damage was The night tide was further diminished, and we continued, after this last adventure, to be not far from the point of the cape behind which was the clear water: while we were obliged to wait w patience for some favourable change of the wind. The thermo meter was at 34^ and the snow was so heavy as to cover the moTm- tains. A party was sent to the cairo, to examine into (he state of he ice, and, having returned, they reported it to be quite closed (o he sou hward, with exception of a narrow lane of water along the and, which nowappeared totrend more tothe southward. 8hortlv rising. The latitude of this cape was found to be 70' 2*' and ihr. longitude 92" 15', which, with "the correction, isp'obabMl" Jul ^^•~:^^^ •Y'"'^ y'^" somewhat more moderate this day, nnd the weather milder; but the ice was quite close every where excepting for a smal space on the south side of (he cape. We went on shore to survey the channel through which we hid intended to ass ; when we saw that there were two reefs of rocks in the middle 11 -r', * ''°" *** *'"'' impatience; as it was one amouR 2vZ7 ! r"'""^ '" r**'' ^"'y"^"' '^^'«"'«"''' •« teach us that ■ ppa ent misfortunes are often benefits. Had we been but ten m.nutes sooner, we should have made the attempt; and, without a miracle, the consequences nius. have been fatal. Of This we could entertain no doubt, when we saw that their depth would then 'ave been six leet, enough to conceal (hem from u., while on c c^'dinJ' '"""'',"" ^''Z'*' '""♦' ''''" overwhelmed' by tied ending masses ol ice. Thus was our disappointment converted (oa source of enjoyment, and of self grat.ilation: with the same knowledge on the day before, we should havr thnuKht our icy |Mi»on a paradise. \ li'tle l>efore noon, the wind shifted suddenly to the 8on(h-ea8(, liO SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ff'' W and blew a gale; while we had in the mean time moored to tlip largest floe in the passage, thatwe might be ready in case of anv favourable chance. In consequence of this reversal of the wind, the ice began lo move in the opposite direction to what we had ex- pected: so that we were glad to regain our position in the bav. though this was not effected without several hours of warping. Going on shore in the evening, we had the satisfaction of seeing that the ice was fast leaving the land, and that it would probablv allow us to try again in the morning, with the probabilrty of making ten or fifteen miles. We here found that the (ine harbour to the south of thecupe had an entrance from a bay to the southward, and also another from one to the northward, rendering the cape itseil an island. The channel was narrow and crooked, and singularly intersected* by the projections of hilly points on both sides, with in- lets branching in every direction. The harbour was clear of ice, and contained three inlets. We here saw three hares. The observations at noon confirmed yesterday's latitude. The thermometer in the twenty-four hours varied from 30" to 34°, the water being at 29"; and there was new ice in the pools among the rocks on shore. Various bearings were taken; and we thought that the land trended less to the east than we had formerly sup- posed; rendering it a matter of hope, rather than of aught else, that we had now arrived at the south-eastern extremity of this land. At ten at night the wind suddenly changed to the north- wes(, and blew with increased violence ; when, once more, the ice which had not yet cleared the bay, closed in upon our protecting icebergs, forcing us to carry out additional ropes, both to them and the shore. The Krusenstern was transported to a place of safety in the inner- most harbour; and, during the night, it blew extremely hard, with squalls of snow ; the thermometer falling to 21" in the air, and 23" in the water. We had therefore, once more, great reason to be thankful that we had not been able io get out of this haven, where the heavy tr ises of ice around us afforded very tolerable security, since they were aground on all sides, and exerted no pressure against us. Sept. 1 7. — The gale continued with undiminished fury from the northward quarter, accompanied by heavy squalls of snow; and the sea froze as it \vashed over our decks and the adjoining icebergs. The outer edge of the ice to windward was but a mile from us ; and, on this as well os the islands, the sea broke in a tremendous manner, producing a considerable s" ell, even where we lay, though sheltered by a point of land and this extensive tract of ice. The thermometer in the air fell to 21", and the water to about 28" i and (hough the t le rose high, the icebergs did not float. In the even- RY :ime moored to the iady in case of any ^ersal of the wind, to what we had ex- )Osition in the bay, urs of warping, atisfaction of seeing t it would probably ■obabilrty of making fine harbour to the the southward, and ring the cape itseil ked, and singularly both sides, with in- jr was clear of ice, hares. ay's latitude. The •om 30" io 34% the le pools among the ; and we thought had formerly sup- than of aught else, n extremity of thiii to the north- west, lore, the ice which irotecting icebergs, hem and the shore, safety in the inner- iremely hard, with in the air, and 23" great reason to be this haven, where tolerable security, erted no pressure shed fury from the s of snow; and the adjoining icebergs. It a mile from us ; ! in a tremendous ere we lay, though tract of ice. The to Jibout 28"; and )nl. In the even- TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ing the ico broke up so much as to bring the or 111 I — water a quarter . nearer to us; and, m no lon^r time, the wind became u.ore moderate : wh.le some masses of ic were seen floating through the clerwatt.'" " P'"'^'' ''^''^ "^''P^'y'^ « »«°d deal d Sept IS.-The moderating of the wind on the preceding even in-' was but a delusive prom.se. In the night, the gale increased oncS more: and to a degree of violence exceeding all that we had ye' felt, accompanied, as before, by snow. As some of the iceberl began to move, three large masses ca.ae a.ross our bov^V threaf enmg to break the two cables which he had made fast to t e X and obhgmg us to carry out a third. The ice on the outside of u was soon broken up by the swell, and at daybreak the waves reache" wthrn a quarter ot a mile of the ship : while the motion of the solid masses around produced such an agitation in her as to compeTus to carry out steadymg ropes and fenders. ^ In consequence of the tide now rising to an unusual height manv icebergs drove near to the shore; but as that fell, tiS became TCZf/r"': ^'""^'^ '^' ''^'' ^^^'-^^'^^ of the ice, 3r all the present violence, gave us great alarm lest we should lose he protection which had hitherto sheltered us so well. At ten „ tl^ morning, therefore, we went on shore, in hopesof obta nfng " be ter view of the circumstances in which we were now eng Ld he wind having once more moderated. We thus discove edfhat' here was nothing to obstruct our passage as soon as we should be released from our present durance, and that although the e .nd^L^T '*"'?'''"«'^ o"-- '■«'''»«•■ Observations for the latitude - o2«? tT'"''";/'''v"' also did the thermometer, from 21 ■' irifted'nff ™°"'d'"K «f *f« collected round the sides of the ship drifted off m consequence, during the course of the day, as d^ tl e .ccles which had been formed on the icebergs. It still, however blew hard: the sea continued to draw nearer to us and the aT aiion was scarcely less; so that the motion of the ship ;L extremelv" wlaTout';. ^r «'^-^'-.'.»- '^— - haza'rdouslTw^ ^ere about to seek a new position, close to the rocks ; when sud ^vh.ch, by live o'clock, took their stations at the outer edge of tTo now njrrow field, and in a very short time, all was q^ieL '" ?»ncn IS the ice, and such the compensation it offers for the in« ^ar'Ttrtt'^'h""^'"' ''' ''' obstrucuons ';^rciu: I ij.„. :. I . . : -— n ••; ' ■iti6'" ""I wu wrong in saying. i.i.a. .. w m„„h of.,„erbee;;™„:f;s7i;:„.,re"„?:;' We 112 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Wv I .K> ! could not, indeed, command the icebergs to tow us along, to ar- range themselves about us so as to give us smooth water in the midst of a raging sea, nor, when we were in want of a harbour, (o come to our assistance and surround us with piers of crystal, ex- ecuting, in a few minutes, works as effectual as the breakwaters of Plymouth or Cherbourg. But they were commanded by Him who commands all things, and (hey obeyed. Sept. 19. — The gale continued, though with somewhat less violence ; nor, even towards night, was there any announcement of a change. We were safe within the large pack which had accu- mulated, and could now see additional masses of blue ice attached to its outer edge ; the sea breaking high over them, in a tremendous manner. I therefore went on shore, and, having a good place for such a record, caused the ship's name and the date to be painted on the pyramidal rock formerly described : ascertaining the latitude at 70" 23', and the longitude at 91". No immediate hope of a removal was held out by the state of the ice as we now- saw it from the land; but there was very little snow on the ground, after all that appeared to have fallen, and the temperature was from 25" to 27". How much of the disappearance of this snow, on this, as on many subsequent occasions, arose from the mere sweeping force oi the wind, we could not determine; but we had often, in this region, abundant proof of the great evaporation which it undergoes, even at very low temperatures ; confirming a fact respecting the pro- duction of vapour, which has long been known to meteorology. In no other way indeed could we account for the small thickness ol snow which generally remained to be converted into water, by tho common process of thawing, at the approach of spring; since its hard frozen surface very widely prevented the gales from dispers- ing it in the form of drift, while we were quite sure that a much larger quantity had accumulated during the winter than that which remained when the thaw commenced. On the utility of this ar- M rangement in diminishing the great flow of water which would other- wise take place at that period, I need make no remarks. Sept. 20. — It was comparatively moderate during the night, with the same wind, but no snow. At daylight a large pack of ice was seen approaching the bay, when it divided : one portion passing to the eastward of us, while the rest closed in, so as, in a few hours, to block us up more completely than we had ever yet been. After divine service, the crew were allowed such relaxation on shore as they could contrive in such a place: and the view hence still showed some clear water to the southward; attainable, if wp could but obtain a westerly wind. The thermomeier was at 27', but there was no new ice in the harbour, although (he land pools were frozen over, in the evening the swell subsided every wheie, us. V us along, to ar- aoth water in tlio it of a harbour, lo ers of crystal, px- i the breakwaters ntnanded by Him th somewhat less ' announcement of : which had accu- r blue ice attached 0, in a tremendous g a good place for date to be painted Gaining the latitude nediatc hope of a ^e now saw it from ) ground, after all •e was from 25" to ow, on this, as on sweeping force ol' ten, in this region, t undergoes, even specting the pro- > meteorology. In small thickness ol into water, by tlip F spring; since its ales from disper> sure that a much T than that whicli utility of this ar- hich would other- emarks. during the nighl, 1 large pack of 'wc ne portion passint; so as, in a frw ad ever yet been, iich relaxation on nd the view hence atlainnble, if \m' iieler was at 21 . i;li (he land pooU ided every when", TO THE ARCTIC KEGIONS. 113 ll,e brcczo becoming westerly at nine oVIocT »n tj '"'■ ""' work, and conlinued oceupU I ,e wi k ■'''°''' ™':'^ '«' '» masses which had been cemented bviL.>^ separaling the .IS the only ehanee of geS e ear '^ Thi( h> 'T ""'' """'^"^ the ship's h..ad in th'e bes't poriUoot^Sgt.'' rnV'aX" this^she was .„„„ s„,...„„„ded b, new ice. "ihe Kom'eter' b*g Sept. 22.— A strong breeze arose daring the m^ht ■ .»a , a l.ght we found that, with theexceptiJof twfiiC't h^." carried away all the ice ' not completed till the evening. At thL trra'tl^'ma ^IT eastward of us broke away, promising to ^ail nff . a . ** "'*^ "s, when, unfortunately \UnTh! / ""f ^'"'' '" ^''^^''''B and, still more vexa, lus'^y^tt opt^^^^^^ ""^^^^ were attempting to clear. ^ ^^ ^""^ *'^*""«' ''^''^^ « e Thus we were obliged to make a new attemot at inn^Kn • , nppeahng again to that patience, and rxertinTlnrP " "J'*'''!' ' termination not to be foiled vuLoh f ^ '"^''^ ^^«t de situation in life, are n^fe ' mte t Ted%^^^^^^^^^ work his way through the never end ng, ev r reLwedth'.'""' iions of an icy sea. By the time it Jl= ^!T '^^"f^^' ^''^t"'*^- succeeded, an'd had once' Ir Tl" Sctn oHl '?' '""^'r'^ .n clear water ; when we hove out hToTZ ."^f'"*^'"& o^'-^e'ves fast for the night to that iheZZh'^eZ^lu-^^^^^^^ ^"1^^^ <•!• a pier. Soon after this it be^an to bbw hl^H f '^T'"'''^""" ward, and the ice which had passed b'.^stl rTtur t/""" •liicmg, once more, a new enigma to be solved I/;' ^ ' ^'''' ns again with a repetition of X we had been so 2^'?"' long undergoing. It became necessary therefore to Jl *? ''' 'hat we might the better understand hoVlttrs werf likpl I"? with us now; since our nositinn in «i,« u- "^"^^ ^^^^ ''kely to be ..-ding ,0 ;ilow oTXZZ: ew,''T;r '£d°^,T- .Mbef„rern-n«,-;w;ea^;e7rnrmXatr^t.rrar^ s tH SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY i"i!!: seen some new ice, Ihc thermometer being at 22", and thence to 26^ By the time, however, that we had returned to the ship, the wind fortunately rose from the very quarter that we desired, being that which was best adapted for carrying away the ice ; while, blowing with sufliciont force to remove it, we were enabled to go to our repose under some hopes for the following day. Sept. 23. — These hopes were quashed by the appearance of the morning. It had snowed hard since midnight, and every thing, land, rocks, ice, our deck, was deeply covered ; while our intend- ed passage outwards was blocked up by large pieces of floes and bergs; two more having detached themselves from the laud to aid in the obstruction. The wind, indeed, had it been more modeiatc, would have been suincienlly favourable: and thence were we in- duced to renew onr labours, in spite of the storm and evci-y other discouraging circumstance. So successful also were they, 'hat the passage was cleared by eight o'clock ; at which time the gale began to abate, and the fall of snow to diminish ; so as to hold oui some better prospects than the early morning had promised. We therefore undertook another survey from the shore, when we found that the north entrance of the harbour was still blocVed up, but that there was much clear water to the southward. This induced us to go oil' in the whale boat, that we might survey the very intricate channel before us ; leaving it to those on board to warp the ship out and get her under sail in tlie meantime. Thus we investigated the pilotage ; and, returnuig at ten o'clock, we succeeded in carrying our vessel through, without any accident, in spite of a rapid tide and the numerous sunken rocks in the passage. The whole of this expedition, successful, if of little exte'U, was terminated in an hour. It was our intention to have entered the harbour ; but, on stand- ing towards its entrance, we thought it probable that we might reach a few miles further, the current being strll in our favour, though the wind was against us. We continued, therefore, to work along shore, and having passed the harbour at noon, reached the furthest point that we had seen from our last station. Hence, the land trended nearly due south, being more bold and rocky, and also more elevated than what we had hitherto seen : and bore also we discovered an inlet some miles to the south, with high land on each side of it, which, on a nearer approach, proved to be full of ice. Near it there was somt m land, which was conjectured to be an island, and, more towards the south-east, a decided one, which was the most distant land we had yet seen. At four o'clock, being opposite the bay, we were obliged to foree through two streams of ice, and, by seven, closed in with the island. when, having a favourable wind and .curroni, we a((euip(ed (o whic! ingn at hi^ exxm on wj 1.8'jn dayli^ .'ast cl wherii made chaiii lociiy bour, soond oblige* and nc As , again, denly, vent it that it ground means any da enablin waited Bute wilhgn we a I (a found t( 22% and thence (o lurned to (he ship, r that we desired, kvay the ice; while, vere enabled to go ng day. appearance of the , and every thing, ; while our intend- )ieces of floes and om the land to aid en more moJeiatc, lence were we iu- m and evci-y other /ere they, 'hat the ime the j?a!e began 5 to hold oui some raised. the shore, when [• was still blocked southward. This might survey the those on board to meantime. Thii» it ten o'clock, we ut any accident, in cks in the passage. little exte'?t, was ur ; but, on stand- ble that we might >trll in our favour, lied, therefore, to r at noon, reached t station. Hence, bold and rocky, (o seen : and here ith, with high land , pro^'ed to be full h was conjecluied 1st, a decided one, re obliged to foice in with the island: we aKempted lo TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 1 1.') work up to the mainland. The coming on of niffht nrcven.,.,? ,) and we were compelled to run round a point on the'^ LTand It ' we secured ourselves to some heavy ice about nfvvSr T" shore, and in four fathoms water. V was fa in^^d ImT ''" a safe place, and, in an easterly wind, would h Jo bol: ^..^^y" ousone: but, after much examination, we could find lih^ ter, and were obliged to be content. The sntj oontin pH^ t whole day, but was not such as to prevent us from ZlZf ^ ^6^320%--^'- '"^'- lh-Lperat:^l7L:>r;fl- I A ' ^ u ^«''«™'^ter fell half an inch. By our reckoning we had made about fourteen miles: an unexpected pnirsfS rf":::htr,"^'^'''^'^' ^-•^ -^'^ - a-iousVZ'r:tn which we were fast received so ^y' ^ '^0"^ \^1T^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^ng masses that we began to suspect .t would i.se f Ca 'i j Jfr at h.ga water. Aa alarm (0 this effect was indeed given bit 1 ex^auon we found that it was the vessel which had ;hei;ed on which she was moored to the rocks. The wind whielf t ^ .e.n gradually changing during the night, became somhej'at daylight ; and we could then see from L island, ih^ e Ice wa I .at closing on us : .„ as to give us timely warninff to Quit a nil! . wher,. It was impossible to remain long with safe "^ \^e i.erE 1 made sail; and passing to the eastward of thejsland found « channel through which th^ tide was running with a moderate ve oc,:y VX-c then sent the boats to examine into this apparen ha, bour and to select a place where we could make fast -but it tl« soon discovered that there was only a reef of rocks so that w« J obliged to moor to a large iceberg, within a few yirds of Urslmrp' and not far from a shallow entrance opening to (he-8o,U eas ' As soon as the men had breakfasted, we prepared remove again, when the boat should have found a belter'^Jositiin 'sud en J. however the ice turned round; and. before'w °couId pre-" ^nt It, the ship's bow was carried on the rocks with such violpnl that It was raised eighteen inches. But as, at h L me u! ' grounded again, no further assault was made on le? 'a d Z means of hawsers she was soon got off. without having 'suslalnl; any damage. The breeze then freshening, the si Is were I enabhngus to stand out with the intention of lying whl wo waited the report of the boat. ' *' "® ''^^ «i,?."* °"f f.'j^'^T '''f ^*^'"y «'n«"5 since after running half a mile , 7-7 •' -"^ '"^ ""t o^m wiinoHt raucii tui and htiimit »,„. iound to be little better than that which we had St. Ittd bul ll(-> Hl-rONl) VOYAHF, OF DISCOVERY t ., 4 H leu feet water; and we saw lliat we should not be able to liaiil out of the stream before (he siiip had arrived within hei- own breadth of some rocks that rose above the water ; while her stem lay close to others that were not six feet beneath the surface. We therefore proceeded in the whale boat to seek for a belter place, for which the now increasing wind made us more anxious; and thus succeeded in finding an excellent deep-water channel between the mainland and the first range of islands. The entrance, however, seemed ex- tremely hazardous; being scarcely wider than the ship hersell, with a tongue of ice, having only seven feet water on it, extending across, from side to side. There was, however, neither a choice to make nor time to be spared in resolving. We therefore dropped the ship down by hawsers, grazing the rocks with our keel. How to carry her over the tongue was another problem, seeing that her draught exceeded its depth ; but, while considering this, the tide swept her on it, and she stuck fast; it having proved, contrary to our reckoning, that ii was now ebb. The hawsers were then carried Out again, and we contrived to heave through ; yet not without sawing off some projecting points on the two opposite icebergs, so narrow was the passage. We did not, however, extricate ourselves from this perilous si- tuation, without passing two other icebergs, one higher than our masl-head, and so close that the vessel had only half her breadth to spare. But, this achievement over, we had no further difficulty in sailing two miles through the channel, when we reached a place of security, and made fast to two large icebergs, out of the stream, and near the entrance of a good harbour. In this position there was a large island on each side, and before us , the mainland. This mainland was what we had seen the day before, and dis played a high range of mountains close to the coast, extending in a north and south direction ; while it seemed to trend in a more fa- vourable manner than formerly, and no land was visible beyond the cape. We proceeded to examine and sound the harbour near us, together with the several entrances to it : but these latter were all blocked up, with the exception of the one to which we were op- posite. Thus, after all, the place which we had first chosen proved the most convenient; and we therefoie remained satisfied with the result of our day's work, and not thankless for our escapes through so hazardous a navigation. There was a little snow, and no bay ice was seen; the air and water both at 29", and the wind, in the evening, coming from the north-east. We were here obliged to fill our casks with ice, as there was no fresh water to be procured. The land near us consisted, as usual, of graoite. Sept. 25.— The wind came to the northward during the nighl, TO TJiE AllCTIC ut:t;io> s. 11? e able (o liaiil out her own breadth icr slern lay close e. We therefore ace, for which the nd thus succeeded reen the mainland ivever, seemed e\- the ship hersell. sr on it, extending ie nor lime to be he ship down by to carry her over draught exceeded /ept her on it, and reckoning, that it but again, and we sawing off some narrow was the n this perilous si- B higher than our y half her breadth o further difficulty ve reached a place out of the stream, this position there the mainland. ly before, and dis- last, extending in a rend in a more fa- jvas visible beyond d the harbour neai it these latter were vhich we were op- first chosen proved d satisfied with the ur escapes through snow, and no bay id the wind, in the ;re here obliged to ter to be procured d during the niglil, caubing such a rise oi the tide that all (he icebergs, wtic set iu mo- tion. Ill consequence, they were shortly all carried off, except one which was kept in its place by our ropes. In the morning it was clear, and we saw, from he mast-head, a good deal of open water to the southward, forming the receptacle of the ice which was sail- ing out of this narrow channel. Thus we at first thought that it would clear itself, so that we might perhaps proceed by noon : but the unlucky arrival of a large pack of ice at the northern entrance, not only filled it up once more, but produced a general stoppage which compelled us to remove the ship further within the harbour. In the afternoon we landed and took formal possession of the is- land to which we were now moored, giving it the name of Andrew Ross, being that of my son. From the cairn which we built, we obtained a very extensive view, and saw land bearing south of Ub at a distance of eighteen or twenty miles; yet not so as to ascertain whether it consisted of islands, or was a continuation of the land near us, and the American continent. Much clear water was also seen in the same direction; giving some prospect of a further pro- gress, in case the wind should come to the northward, and enable us to clear the channel by which we were imprisoned. A sketch being taken, the islands were named. The last night's gale had so blown away the snow, lodging it in the ravines and hollows, that the land seemed comparatively clear, and the island on which we stood was so bare as to show its clean granite, without a mark of vegetation. A slight fogginess iu the direction of the newly-seen islands continued to render the view of them indistinct; and, in the evening, the weather was quite mode- rate, with a temperature of 24°, though without the formation of any new ice. The harbour having been at length quite surveyed, was found to have fifteen feet at low water, with an even muddy bottom, to be free of currents, except in the main cRannel, and se- cure from every wind. Where the current did run, it was, indeed, very powerful ; carrying the ice through it with fearful velocity and (leinendous collision. Except a glaucous gull, we here saw no animal. Sept. 26.—- Though calm and clear after midnight, and the Ihei- uiometer not more than 27°, no new ice was formed in the still water, and the tide carried away the greater part of that which had occupied the channel. But, at nine, it began to come in at the northerly opening; which, with a north-easterly breeze and A heavy fall of snow, put an end to all prospect of advancing for this day. Soon after dark, the temperature fell to 25°, and the snow continued to fall ; but, under the iulluence of the tides, the ice began to clear away in both directions. An increase of wind US SECOND VOYAGIi OF DIHUOVliUY MjiHij forced us to carry oiil additional ropos, uiid the Krusenstern wais also moored in a place of security. Sept. 27. — During the night it blew ii v«i*y hard gale from the northward, and the tide rising high in conKOquoncc, all the icebergij were set in motion. Our strongest hawser Hiipped off the mck to which it was fastened, and obliged us to lot go an anchor, as it was dark : but when daylight came, we transl'orrod the former to another rock, and got the anchor up again. It wam then »een that the channel was closed with ice at both endH; and thuH it continued the whole day, though having some clear wtttor in the middle, as its widest part. A good deal of heavy ice eamo to the entrance of this little harbour, but did not reach our own clear water, on which no new ice was formed, in consequence, probably, of the gale. After muster and prayers, part of the crow was sent on shore for exercise, and the remainder in the evening. Hcing with this last party, we saw that in spite of some open Meo, there was no chance of our being released from our present Hiluation without a change of wind. We had time to walk over (hiit iitland, which is the largest of the group, but found no vegelation, nor any animal ; though, on the following morning, we killed a Ncal and a glaucous gull. The temperature of the air and water, equally, was 29". and it came on to blow hard from the norlh-weitt (toon after we got on hoard. Sept. 28. — Though the wind veered to the west during the night, it did not release us, as wo had hoped. The ice, indeed, bad drifted a considerable way olV the couHt, but our channel was still locked up. Besides this, there wau much heavy ico driving up and down, with great velocity, before the tide, which, even could we have got out, it would not have been prudent to en- counter. Some of these masses, indeed, entered the channel, sweeping it clear from side to side for a. lime, nit some of them blocked up the entrance of our harbour. A Hurvey by the boat, however, showed at last that we might get out at the southern entrance, if wc cculd release oursolveH from the prison that now enclosed us. Though it was moderate all day, the harnmeter fell an inch, prognosticating wiiat socm occurred. Accordingly, we were visited by a very heavy gale, in the evening, fnnn the nf)rlh-north-we8t, with a snow-storm, wiiich obliged us to carry a cable to the rocks-, and another to the next iceberg, for the Hake of ki'oping it between us and the shore, in case any shift of wind tthould drive us on the rocks from which we were not nuiny yard* oil. riie thermometer was at one time 22", and roue to 28". >\e exannned the island to inc aoui'n oi iie> io-tluy, hiil fuuiid nuihiiii} on li to aitruci out aitrniinn. TO THE AUCTIC RE(}IONS. Ill) rusenstern wa^j Sept. 29.— The snow-storm continued without intermission a!} night ; but, in the morning, it had so far cleared away the ice as to render the passage navigable. The state of the weather would not, however, permit us to get under way, since no canvass could have stood against the gale. Towards noon, and in the evening, the wind was in squalls, and the snow ceased to fall; when such was f the islands that wi' I Kihcr with some laud ^obably the American letermincd, any ni»»if[ tinuotion of that on I what the state ol tlit'j it we saw gave us u"\ It A Stand. W'! Iiad| ;oiiid not be very "i-- I, be surprised that ill TO THE .\ncT\C UFOIONS. had arrived. Yet we had been bus, point, and our perpetual eHorts had IIS IV i-2.5 :> ""!' •'^'^"^'«' "P t<> the present ., .iiivi ...ii p»i|m;ih,ii euoris liau, as s nsinl :» iwv. , -n tlnnkins of the HUnre, from s^oi^ U^t ^^ '^.^Id not (or ever be protracted, was drawing nearer every hou that vvas commg every m.nute, that it was come; thus nouS ^ t| blind hope, which even in the face of inevitable dau'^rrnr r^ ...in, even on the bed of death itself, is the resuU of offoi 3 "'" sistance; that hope which ceases only with 1^1,110^1 ".1 -t It was supported, when the helpless slip falls asXl r'^^^^ and the sun fades before the eyes of the dying man ' . J^:^=:;:j:rc:;n;;£l:j;:>::':r^ ^ - now that long and dreary months, the 'l^^-Z^I.'^JT^S:^'!^:^ of our inevitable detention among this immVveable ic rose 5 1 om' view. The prison door was shut upon us for the i\Zt\J.l » feehng that if wc were helpless as hWloss cantives .7 .\atnre could now relieve or aid us Sr manv T. ' T* *'''^" month to come, it was impossi He h, ZSiP ""^ and weary .honght«which,ifthey folC pl^^ ''^ those heavily, under that subsidence «f felin7which fo low n T T'" check to that exertion by which lu.pe Ls utpo "^ Shol ^'^ have done better, been further advanced 1.1, ^j/, , "^^ difliculties, and more,shorw tv'!^^^^^^^ *»'««« where we wished, forming a iunetLrwl b^H "''•''''''"'^^ westward, had th^ engine'not7sappoi„T.i „ Lt 'r^' 1 *''' as we ought to have been, a month T "v weeks soonePw''"'; the badness of our vessel, a complication of defects not to h-^"^'' loreseen, which had prevented I from comp etg he oull n/nl' ■America, from ascertaining the "north-wpJ nnl„ » • *'' season? This was the thought thattorl^Llr !^^ •" a single rally, when we recollected all that tl ^d e„durH II"'' "","f "" and disappointments. But, like tint ISf e well knovtm,. „„7 "■•■■■■•■.■''""r'' '•*'''"» 120 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY r' the weather has become truly cold ; proving that it is, at least, not tlir effiect of temperature, as it is assuredly a prospective arrangement for meeting the cold of winter. The track of a bear was also found; and in the interior, we could see, even through the snow, that the plains were covered with vegetation ; while the protruding rocks consisted of red granite, accompanied by fragments of limestone neartheshore; indicating a continuity of the same geological structure that we had traced ever since entering this strait. There were many Esquimaux traps, with a great number of those cairns, or stones, resembling men when at a distance, which these people erect for the purpose ol frightening the deer within their reach. In this space, amounting to five miles, which we had traversed, there were two large lakes. Oct. 3.— During your yesterday's excursion, the men nearly de- molished the iceberg which chiefly obstructed our possible exit, so that it was hove out into the tideway before five o'clock : but as ii continued calm, with a temperature of 20", there was little chance of proceeping, even after this impediment was surmonted ; since in this state of things, the new ice could not fail to set us fast. Tliis morning the temperature promised even worse, being only 1 ;>° : but, during the day, it rose to 21», the weather being clear and nni- dcrate. Landing again, we reached the summit of the highest ac- cessible hill at noon : but the sight of the horizon from it was im- perfect, and we could decide on nothing, though what we did sec was by no means of a promising nature. The ascent of a second hill disclosed nothing hut a vast extent of land from the north-casi to the sout-west, with no space of water but that where we lav, and which resembled the bottom of a great bay. We again saw the tracks of hares, and that of a white bear, together with those of ermines and foxes; picking up, moreover, the horus of a rein- deer. The state of the ice wa«, however, the important consideration ; while knowing too well how diflicult it is here to judge of the nature and connexions of the land, I was fully aware that we could not form any decisive conclusions from w hat we had yet seen. The former appeared nearly in the same state ; and we had now even more reason to believe that the great pack was so firmly cemented for the winter, that it would separate no more. Of the land I was determined to acquire more knowledge, if that should be possible, by travelling as far as it should prove accessible. Our ship was not absolutely frozen in ; but she was placed in the most desirable po- sition that could be found, in case of that event occurring; as we had now so uuich reason to expect. As to the nature of the land thus traversed, it differed little from what we had already examined; though more uneven and ruggour success good will, c iipicuous un During t\ east, with di were concer not severe. curing the r engine: wh 'n the cabin feeen able to of the door ; •^'"t uau no i keep off dan TO THE ARCTIC REOIONH. mind is paralyzed, ceasing to care or thi l-^!» nk. ^- ^! , might, did it occur but o°nce, o las Zonl H "''''' -'- \ -js irovelty ; for it is but the 4w of IZ f^' "^'""'"*« "« «^v death. Even a poetical ima^inatTon wou d ?'? "".1 ""'"'«« «" J J matter of description fVom th^^^ro^^^ .^"'"''r'' '« -^•"^''^ had been enabled to do in our first Iflln '^ ? *^*"*" ''"'•» ^e tion and on comparing tharwithl;"'^^^^^^ ""''«'' '»>" obstruc- m.sadventures, the view now taken wa.Tr."' ""P''^''^«"t« «nd graffying. We could not forget the dav« ^ ''"'T^'^^ ^^an thought ourselves fortunate though we ^Ld'".'^" '''^"'^ ^«^« «owen m this season, and thoulfp Za f m . '?"'y '^«''''«d Port wreck and the stores if the FurTflu^^ I" '"'*'"'"» ^« '^^ d'sp ayed before u. we saw that we Jad nof I'''"? "^'^ '' '«"8''^ great point in our vovaee h„t\7I T\ '^^'"^^ reached this srxty-sixgeographica Ss and werff ''^ ' by a hundred and that harbour where we had 'exjectrd « ^M ■5""^'^? ^""''^'^ ^»»«n attained that spot. Nor was TipJ! r r^"^ "P' '^ ^« ^ad even numerous dan^e,. wlTh Jehad escapedlr'"^- '' ''^''' «" '^^ truly mtrica:. and perilous under JK' "f Rating passages so -d through the Jwhich hadtentniS '^"^ 7' ^'"^ ''^'^'^ our master. Thus comparing and ^n. 7 *""" '''*'''' ''"'''«'• ^^an araple time and much rSn to do " '^'""'^' ""^ T »">'' «' '«°«th conclusion that we were now h-n "^'"V'' '*•« tranquillizing family; all equally zTalous and . T ^ '"'" ""'^^^J «nd «ettff rtheuiieorspiritii )ur between Decks g, an relating both \ It blew fresli rmometer was , had not been I it is vulgarly, I the immediate statement. But wnile some of lifficiilt to per- plain the appa- and on that of , are often not ce for all, what ihe same colli- and (he reader lure statements rrtng to what I al state of the t this is not so ne knows that or of heat. Yol reverse condi- aporation from ). Combining strength of iho oy of this ques- » atmosphere is [| always, pro- it produce this becking the ra- il nil iri|uivai6rii I ; while it also TO THE RCTIC REGIONS. ,3, ;ra;.':,:trt;fSr' ^"^""*'^'— ' ^y«»-k.ngtheeva- But the state of the body itself is scarcely of less moment than all this, m any attempts to explain these apparent contradictions a .t eomphcates the whole question in a far higher degree ECerv one knows that the sense of cold can exist in certain fevers even under the burnmg sun of Africa; and the same internarsen;aUon as of a low temperature, is of frequent occurrence from other Z- «ases and moreover from derangements of health so slight as to be undehnable. It .s far more remarkable, that the feeling of e» treme cold can be present, under fever, when the temp^f tu e of the body .s many degrees above the natural standard, an^vvhen to the touch of hers, the patient is burning hot ; as, in the Ipace oJ a very few mmutes it may appear tae same tJ himsilf, thournu change of the actual temperature has taken place. """6»"»" Thus also, if the circumstances differ, does exercise, or the want ,"xtl7. " ''T'-"'' '^ ^^-P-ature. when the e s noting external to cause them ; and the case is similar under want, or ,^ vei^ly, under abundance, of food. These are things whi h aflfe^ the power that generates aniu.al heat; as the greater or le s enerJl this power .s perhaps the chief cause of all the facts which arj ten.perature. That energy, too, is not the mere produce of food or exerc.se ; there are cases, in which no allowance of food a^ no exertion of the muscular powers, w.ll suftice to preserve a \Tl temperature m the human body. In reality, though it is litJe "f marked, and, as far as I know, is not even observed by the wrUer. different mdmduals, and is as much a portion of the original con « .tufon, as are the mu.scular or the meital energies. Any one who phases may observe this in common life ; it was always Sng to us, m circumstances where the application of the .-st was so oL« extreme ; so that, after a little p!-icticc, it was ersy To antliolt^ who would suffer from degrees of cold vihich othm lluld dS;' In mentionrngthis, I «„. also, in justice to the chief sufferers inTur crew bound to observe, that I have myself been noted by a ohv rir k'^ ^'"■•"^""" reputation, asVossessing, in a vL fe tST ^rV' f r'''^'"» ^'"''' ^ »'«»«« '^oX he infirs that ^difference to cold of which I was always conscious; togelher con Hequently, with the very limited con.parative suffering fh« I ex,^ nenced dur.ng that long protracted winter, as I mayMil ,,K" Which n..:„p.ed four of the wmters of England, yet such wfn t Knglan^ never saw and will never conjecture.' Lether Jit L- ":::»»:.„, Ol wriicli every one would, in thatcountiv b** At^moA -vere beyond the severity of its own Januunes and .l'b,tnr1 dk 134 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY must leave it to the reader to judge how far this constitution may have influenced my reports on the temperature of sensation, on many occasions ; it is certain that I could not judge what others felt; but I could not have described what I did not myself feel. These remarks are not mere matters of philosophical speculation, nor are they questions of amusement or curiosity alone. They offer useful hints to those who may hereafter engage in similar expedi- tions ; since they deserve some among the fust attentions in the selection of a crew. Other circumstances of apparent health and strength being equal, it is he wl.o seems the readiest generator of heat who ought to be the selected individual ; for no one will know, until ho has suffered from it, what disappointments and vexations and labours, and restraints to the service, follow from the suscepti- bihty of cold in the individuals who may form the crew of a ship, on a service like this; to say nothing of the accidents, in mortifications and death, and in scurvy too, I liave little doubt, which follow from the same cause. 1 know not, however, that I can give rules that will not produ( disappointment, where the test of facts would be the really desirable guide. But this at least seems certain, that men of the lari.est appetites and most perfect digestion produce the nM)!ii heat ; as feeble stomachs, whether dyspeptic, as it is termed, or merely unable to receive much food, are subject to suffer the most from cold ; never generating heat enough to rejist its impressions. Physicians nnist determine whether the strong digestive power and the heat-generating one are but parts of one original constitu- tion, or whether the larje use of food is not a cause of the production of heat ; hut what follows is at least practically true, as the reasons seem abundantly plain. He who is well-fed n'sists cold better than the man who is stinted ; while the starvation from cold follows bii( too soon a starvation in food. This, gr«Huuls on whirh their (jrders ought to have been regulated. If the allowance ol the 1', I r. „ I M ....„„:!. lo ,i:iio....i.....u ..r ..!■■. min i>i* Inluiiii' SaWJJ Jt.T TriJIIirit, IIJlt:rt ntl j-t,'.-r!T?!T- •!■»!■..-_ rr-- - — . ... ofsorvie©, technically •.(•eaking, has been fixed, and uniform, impiv I TO THE ARCTIC KEGIONS. j^j ing ciro.iaistances, and involving consequences respecting wliich I dare not here take room to speak, so, in the case immediatclv be- lore me, have we been accustomed to fix the allowance of food to restrict it, I may fairly say, through an experience founded on' far other circumstances, or under a system calculated from vervdiffprent data. J - 11 The conclusion therefore in which I wish to rest, willing! v as I would have extended these remarks, and perhaps then extendinK them so as to produce the greater conviction, is this; namelv that in every expedition of voyage to a polar region, at least if a winter residence is contemplated, the quantity of food should be increased 1 l!? f?K '"''^"^^"'.^t ^« it may. It would be very desirable' indeed if the men could acquire the taste for Greenland food ; since all experience has shown that the large use of oil and fat meat is the true secret of life in these frozan countries, and that the natives cannot subsist without it ; becoming diseased, and dying under a more meagre diet. N,.,. J,> I know that this is impossible; since i" IS notonous that ^,c the patients in English hospitals have been treated with (., or the cure of rheumatism, they not only soon 17 n nil I'^'f '.^'f ^*''''^' '' ^^'""K^'^t «"ni i-«/-«»v,oi.p.i ct, iuasiiiucii }r which the hat the same id displaying I offers itself ; occupations d to the ori- ess than the ts and hopcb, e also knows be attacks ol be of use to expedient in npressionsof pquiie detail, iting energy, ;t expedient, elf, produce means of a lie expedient nometer fell 8 boilers. I nd obtaining inuous frofn laud, though be sure that ], and inter ig the shore, in the inlet; n Hecia and 1, were now lisappeared. le following •. A single vn that this should not ; the ther- t fell till ii ' very much nduy found I ritfiwittvr'ii n i i TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,3, (ill evening, when there waJ T\ZT- « . ^ ' *' «ont'n"ed calm distances ti the amount of a hf.n/""; V' "«"'" "'^**'°«^ '""'»'• alftudes of the sun andV/e^e^a^s i T''' "'^^ •"^"^'«» lor the transit observations was In ^^'ronometer, intended the evening, the frame be;n^!nrtnr''" '""'• ^" '^' ^""•'^^ «f I believe the men l™t that Z7 ^\^ '"?'"'' ^«''« ««t »>»t : and lu agree that the cold wea he. J. n '"^"^ '"'""«' «nd we began tolerable thus far. I„The eou, *^'l '^- H '"r'^' ""^ '*' ^"« '''y ^ «' night, fell again to minurgTrh^^^^^^^^^^ pl-:-; but. out : may I not sav that tU.Z ' '"*' ^^''^'ne was hoisted ^ thisevenf w^Z^^ '''*^7"^ If ^"^ "'" "« who did not hai. without recoil it: fat .tl?ht to .""' T" '"'^*^ '^^ ^'•««'"-»« '0 be; nor without reflect ons and tbo ^ ^^'i'"'* ^^''' '' P'"«^«** when we .^men.bered thnXs ^Vl 'll"'' '"""'^ "" 'J^T'^^'"' patience which it had ca,. J,l 7)!f <^ver recurnng trials of our in its reparation tle^^^^^^^^ labour of the men " had bee ^e fen , "cLs X' '^'""^^^f "«' » fear, of which -"IJ in reality be d ml t^^^- "" '" '" "'"'' '' "P' ''''^"8'' '^ ••Heeling, which rebe a jain^far''; ""''" I' "*^^ '"''"" ^^'^^ h'^it, 'ii'tcst fragment. wisned to see even its mi- :." -'0™ ™Je1u''„z":tr"vri''i >T"'-'- »■"'• " "«'". ".1 /while fox L, W« iLT ',""■'■ "" ''"I' *"» •■""'"■""ced, 138 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY and olaced in the centre of the men's berths, that the heat from the lire might be more equally distributed. A tank of plate iron was, further, placed on the upper deck, over the coppers ; and, by this contrivance, the steam, which is a constant annoyance at these low temperatures, was secured and condensed. Another raven was seen; and our fishery of whelks, though never very productive, was con- tinued daily. Oct. 23.— A fresh breeze rendered the cold very sensible to-day; but its effect was, nevertheless, to raise the thermometer from minus 6° to plus 8- in the course of the day. This wind continued on tiio following day, with drift snow ; the thermometer falling to minus 3 , and then rising again as high as plus 1 5". This is a sure indication of snow in these climates -, and accordingly a heavy fall came on al midnight. Some other useful alternations were this day made in the ship; and, among the rest, a pipe was carried from the upper decli to the fire, by means of which that was easily regulated. These things being done, it was found that a very small quantity of fuel was sufficient to keep the lower deck, where the crew lived, dry and comfortable, and to maintain a medium heat of about 55", beinj what I judged the most advantageous one. Oct. 25. — The snow continuing in the morning, the thermometei roso to 18", but began to fall at noon, and, in the evening, was at minus 6". Prayers, and exercise on shore, occupied, as usual, their portions of the present Sunday. We had set a fox-trap yesterday, and to-day it was found robbed by the dogs. Oct. 26.— Though the temperature was not materially ditferciii this day, a smart gale made the cold very severe. We therefore hastened to complete the roofing, which was done by means of tlie spare sails procured from the Hookwood's and the Fury's stoies; and we immodiatc'ly found the advantage of this additional security against the cold Other needful arrangements on the part of tlie carpenters and tngni. (!rs, under us in-door employment, when ii was especially unsafe for inexperienced men to work out of the ship, lest they should be frost-bitten. Oct. 27.— After continuing to blow a storm all day, the w itul leli at six o'clock, and the weather cleared : after which the snow ceased, and it became calii. We were thus enabled to make considerable progress for a time in our snow fortification; but in the evening ii blew as hard as ever, and the thermometer fell to minus 1 1". Thus it continued tilt six on the following morning, when it setlletl and cleared. In the course of tins day the temperature sunk to niinu* ia% being the lowest that had yet occurred. The ship, however, being now completely housed in, we found ourselves in a very com foi tabic piisiilon. Oct. 5^0. —In the course of the preceding ni^jht the thermouietfi I'OES to phi have just r in consider great that v tin the tern here; but I occasion, tl was taken i Oct. 31. to minus 1 second thai There was the mountai but the cont served to re The poor fo: a fate whii though we ( We had, ment in this to compare and to mak< important of I may firs way, the dej latitude. TJ table which p| and those wl ife| island. Igloo! I rate compari I observed on of three dcgr experience sli These are Victory's posi -Melville islam Winter island 'Rloolik . . ilWt Boweu heat from ihe plate iron was, i ; and, by this e at these low raven was seen; !tive, was con- iensible to-day; eter from minus }ntinued on tiip ng to minus 3 ', sure indication fall came on al ilay made in the the upper deck ;ulated. Thesf [uantity of fuel V lived, dry and jout 55", being lie thermometer ;veninK, was ai I, as usual, their ■trap yesterday, terially differeiii We therefore by means of tlie ! Fury's stores; ditional securitj tlie part of tlie yment, when ii ; out of the sliip. ly, the wind It'li he snow ceascil. ike consideralilr in the evening i: inus II". TliiK en it settled aiul r sunk to mini!- J ship, how«'N 5; is; "i 1 Wednesday I5i 4 4 n\ Thursday . If A? 13; Friday. . . Zts It 4t 13w 1 4i Saturday . 1 2 ^ 4 4^ i-H Sunday , . Monday . , Tuesday . . 63 64i 6 4i 4i S isl 13; iJ, If Wednesday Thursday . 2;' I7 Ji J '- m is; 1 Friday . . . \h\ 4f 1-' ^r-f 13^ Saturday , 211 If 4j \v. 44 Total . 126 145i 6 9 59| 15| 3H 6 15; 108 40I40] 1 T" Ij li T 1 besides this, vinegar was served as it was required ; but, more I nirely, preserved soups, as it was thought best (o reserve them lor I the coldest weather, or for particular occasions. There were also lemons and tamarinds for those who might be unwell. This portion of the ship's duty appertained to Mr. Thorn, who had also the charge of the log, as masl'ir not less than purser- together with that of the barometer, - id its attached thermometer' \ the chronometers were now under the chanre of Command/... n,... '. «iio also took a joint duty with myself in the navigation and the 144 SECO^fD VOYAGE OV DISCOVERY different classes of .observation ; with the further undivided oommaiij over the department of natural history. CHAPTER XIV. The Month commences Stormy and Cold— Improvement in its progress— Rp. marks on the Thermometer and Barometer — Occnrrence of 'a splendid Aurora Borealis — Summary of the Month. ]^ov. I . — The most severe storm that v had yet experienced came on this day; bursting suddenly from the north, with a heavy fall of snow, and the thermometer under zero. Sunday was spent as usual, except that it was impossible to take exercise on shore, There was an aurora at night, but not brilliant. The gale then subsided, and was followed by a fine day : when, although the toiii perature was at minus 14", the cold was by no means disagreeable. Though the distant horizon was not very clear, we could see thai the ice was partially broken up by the storm ; some clear water ap- pearing in the south-eastern quarter. In the evening of this ila\ the wind came to the westward, and there was another aurora, of short duration. Nov. 3. — There was no material change of wind or weather this day, the thermometer being at minus 9°. Vv o found traces of foxes during our walk on shore. More was done towards completing our snow fortification ; and 1 believe most readers n»»w know, that the frozen snow is cut into masses re.sembling squared htoaes, and ap- plied in the same manner, as the cement is formed of water. On the fourth, there was snow again, during the whole day : the ther- mometer rose to zero ; falling again, in the night, to minus 10. We had now ceased to take the shell fish for some days. IVov. 5. — The morning was fine, and, as is then unusual, the temperature got up to minus 1°. Four willow partridges were killed. On the following day the wind was fresh from the norlh- ward, but not so cold as to impede the necessary work. An exami- nation of the condensers proved that they collected, jointly, a bushel of ice in the day, as I noticed in the summary of last month to be the expected quantity : and we could not but be highly pleased at re- flecting, that had it not been for the collection and condensation ol this bushel, we should have been ourselves the condensers, and been involved in vapour and internal rain, to an equivalent amount, all ]ei|oomniaiiil TO THE ARCTIC IIEGIONS. j^- those sPflrJnT^k """'''' '"^ ^" ^^^'■'* of «hips, especially in aii-K?! f ? '*""'" '"*'""' '"^^^'^'^ sudden and violent .ale" tl'e omissbn nf r r "^"«ff " to other cii-cumstances, or for lected ha? i„ SS ""^^'^ "'"«- «^ «««' «« must it bi recol^ . '«ise one, popiilarlv rooted as it is, that the exception proves ll 10 146 SECOND VOYAOF, 01' HIMCOVfilfV rule ; Uic slightest exertion ol coiiiinon sflltsfi flfaould show, thai nothiiig can b.c a law in philosophy il' it (idniitN but of one excep tion. Nov. 8. — On the preceding evening, the winjl blew hard from the north-west; but the morning of Sunday was beautiful, with a bril- liant sky, without a cloud. Divine Hnrvi«!(i wiin performed, and the exercise on shore was enforced aH on (ormor occasions ; this beiiiu intended as a standing order for every Sunday on which it niiglii be practicable. All were well, except tlicf armourer, whose cc-i- stitution could not bear the climate, lie ought not, indeed, to have been with us ; having been declined for oun consort, the .lohn, as the armourer of that ship was intended for the Victory. Un- luckily, that man was one of those who joiiuul the mutineers; and though I had intended to send the prettiint ailing and feeble person home by the first whaler that we should moot, not one had fallen in our way. Nov. 9. — The fine weather continued, with the thermometer ai minus 10°. A shooting pa'* a matter which we had no means of dincovoring, as there were now but three hours of daylii'ht. Hut il was likely ; for the wind coming from the north-easi to the south-east in the evening, there was an unusual high tide, a- d the ice near us bui'Ht o]h,u with a tremendous noise, admitting the water above it. The thurmonuter at midnight was as high as 20° plus. Nov. 13. — The temperature did not bi'nin to fall till after noon on thisd ', and then very gradually. Thin wan a huig duration of wliii may bo called a high heat at this seaHon of the year; since it hail been abf>ve 24° plus, for about eighteen hout'H : but the more remark able ^ct is, thai there wm4 a north-eanlerly wind all the lime; con- firming the obsorvatitnis I have just made reNperling the ohseuir •causes by v Mdi temperature is regula((<(l. A<'coi'ding to gci mi cxperientM) . .hose regions, the cold ought to have been severe. ^' to the then of their ac the intlueiK had been ii 'h find the sp that fell, tin Nov. 14. of the sun h had so oftei land than I more remot admirable tl hefore. It presented al ally seen in ( i dark, calm aerial tints a or exceeding splendid w iti In reality, tli It is not surj !)its but the a leasoii to bel open sea to 1 space of aboil Ittgethcr with Nov. 15.- ihennometer very little snc idready quite i^roiiiid in gen iit'ie and iher IVaees of foxc "11 shore; but ^"11 had not \isihle (his dn liowever, it fc day. On Monday "I « '^now .^^sujt^jSrE^^ had so often visited, gave me TmL. If ' ''^'"" ''" *''<^ ''"' v<; land than I had ever yet obTahied T T '"'"' ^''"^ «'" "'^ distant ...e remote than thor:S;l'te^^^ «f-."ntains admirable this day, as it had been lor ^^df. f }'P '^•^'«'"'nR was before, h was not only ]hat 'he 1?h ^ J?."'' '" ''"^ «''^«'"«on ,-onted all those rich sultrlh,^': t^n f^bL^ '" ''' ^^^"^'' iilljseen in our own coiiiili-v onH fl,n„ , ""'"« ""I"* are occasion- i .l».;k. oalm p„rple of .1,0 i;"! 'I, 'Z 1°"""'"'^, 1?:^'- *ep. , acnal l,n(, and roHoclions o," ll,r sow ?,?,'„ ' "''''"'"" '" "'<■ ; »!■ cvcecling ,l,oso on (l,e do ids Z I.N ' "'»""''■'"». cn.„l„,i„g splendid wilh prismnii, „„|*™;' *« ''^ n™'' ' j» son wore often ■t IS not surpnsing, tl,o,-efore, ll,ne il, wl,2 , ,"""" »"" ^ "nd ..«„ ,o wiovo, f,,,„, .1,0 oX, If jxv.r,"''''*''- ' '-'■ "l-ady c^uite filled, nstUeCl^^l^jty^r'^ '-vi"os were pound in general was covered Sv'^aolil" '.'"V""' *''' ""^ "^'"•'• ^.-reand there, wherever the ^Ya^ S Tra.y Hu- parties MM. had not been seen vestr..L 7 -^^ 'P'^"^ "' "«""•• The v-^''^ this day: th^X t ; " rlv'a"' 'u "7 '"""" ^^ ;-ver,it.,uomi„ns4^and::;;:;^,r;t•;be^;r:^^^ ':•" "»«'•••• which tl.; rav« .hiy ;'"•;'• "'^'^ ^«« H.nToun,l,Hl bv a *'•'•• sembiance of a .star of the",u'der of".l!'''n' fl ""',';"? "' '" f^'^'" " 10 > 14H SECUNU VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY or any Dtlicr knighthooil, to any ot us, the secret was kept; foilu iiatcly for the prognosticator, who might have lost his f^me by trust- ing to a fallacious omen ; though, by a very singular coinciilpncp, it bus been accomplished on the very day that the correction of thi. sheet, in passing through the press, enables me to add iis fuHilmPiil. Nov. 18.— It was still mild; but, from the force of the Avind, thnc was enough drift, on the hills, to prevent shpoting: the thermometer reached plus 7" at midnight. Our school was completely organized, for instruction in reading, writing, arithmetic, mathematics, and navigation; and the men being divided into classes, the necessary materii^ls and books were distributed. 0\it of the eighteen, three had not learned to read and write; but the want of arithmetic w;»> very general: the three mates were capable of commencing wiili astronomy mid navigation. No compulsion was here necessary; all were voluntpers; smi\ the school hours always terminated by readint; two chapters fiou, ihc hiblc, together with the evening psalms. Nov. 20.--Thpre had heen neither sun, moon, nor stars to be seen the two last d^ys, and (he weather still continued gioqmy, w ith lidle wind and les . snow. TIte thermometer reached ', and averaged Tf during the twenty-f(mr hours. A w hite hare was shot. The loi lowing morning was ccpmlly tlull and dark, with occasional snow ; though the moon made her' appearance, once or twice, for a very short time. At midnight the temperature fell to minus I". A female fox was taken in the trap to-day, and w as brought on board lor tlie purpose of being tamed. A very faint aurora was seen in the sout h eastern horizon. Nov. 22.~Sunday was calm and clear, with the lliermometer ib low us minus II". In the coui-se of their walk after service, the men found thp track*, of reindeer, but nothing more. On I\londay the thermometer continue*! falling till it reached minus 1 «". Intending to pursue the tracks of yesterday'' reindeer, Commander Uoss pid cccded for a i.'ertain distance ahjug shore, and thus found, for tie lirst time, that the south-west point of the nearest land was in hul'Ued fi« u the main by a channel lea.ling to the westward, hm without hi .ug able to awiertaiu how far it penetrated. The wiml shifted to t|Be their way, was completed ; and a thermometer, on- kept; furlii me by trust- incidence, it ction of thi>> (s fullilment. ! wind, there bermometer ly organized, ?»Tiaties, and lie necessary [hteen, three ithinetic \var« lencing with L'cessary; all ^d by read i II t; )sahns. irs to be seen ly, with little .nd averapcil )t. The lol sional suow; B, Cor a very 1". A femali' board for tlic 1 in the soul h jrmometer .b vice, the men ]>Uinday lln' '. Intendiiif; ler Hoss pro ound, lor (li ■ and was in Histward, Itiii 1. Tlic wind in extricating irtially buricil B water a IVw r to rise a lew ^ was enongli rk ol" the <•» ' iiredieanienl lor tnose w tii> loinetcr, o" 10 TUB ARCTIC HliOIONS. ij^ sii noted purpo^ily for us, was fixed on it. There wa= a brilliant aurora to iiib south-west, extending its ked radiance as far as the zenith. 1 he \i ind vacillated on t!ie followin}.' day, and thefe Was a stdl more brdlunt one in (he evening, increasing in splendour till midnight, and persisting till the followitig morning. It constituted a bright arch, the extremities of which seemed to rest on two op- posed lulls, while its colour was that of the full moon, and itself soenied not less luuiihous ; though the dark arid somewhat blue sky by which It was backed, was a chief tause, [ have no doubt of Ihe splendour of its eflcct. ' We can conjecture what the appfeafdneo of Saturn's ilng must . be to the inhabitants of that planet; but here the conjecture was per- haps vended; se exactly was the form and light of thit> arch what xve must conceive of that sphmd id planetary appendag'i when seen crossing the haturnian heavctls. It varied, however, at length, .o i.iiich as to eflect this fancied rrserablaiice ; yet with an inci-ease ol brilliancy and ipteresl. While the mass, or density, ol the Iumiuo«.s matter WLS such as to obsoure the constellation Taurus, it prdcceded to send lorth rays in groups, forming sudi angular points as are rc- presenled in the stars of jewellery, and illuminating the objects on land by their coruscations. Two bright nebuhe, of the same matter alterwards appeared beneath the arch ; sending forth similar rays.and lormii g a slill stronger coutfasl with the dark sky htar the horizon About one o clock it began to break up into fragments and nebula lie coruscations becoming more IVequent and irregular until it snd denly vanished at four. ■ i ^'"\- 27.- U being now the spring tides, the water llowed iliiough the fire-hole, as it is termed (being an aperture made foi |"<><;mins water in case o( the occurrence oi fire on board), and •overed the ice near tiic ship in s^ch a iwanner, that we were obliged to make a Iresh eu-bankment round it, to prevent this in convenience. The tiiermometer fe!-, -n the evenin. to minus 27" and jet ll.e air did not feel very cold. According to our latitude' lie sun shou d have disappeared for the winter, yesterday; but, un' imkily, lor tho last threr days, there wrts a cloudy hoi izon which preventwl us Irom seeing it. it was hot, indeed, certain that we iniKht not see it once or twice mole, from the cllect of refracti.m llietwenty-»'ighth was, however, tl.- clearer than tl preceding wyd, but the thermomeler rose to 2h, minus. !\„v. 29.- It fell again however to 2T , and the cloudy horizon «t noon ont^e more pi-evented a sight of the sun. Kvery thing pio- '•TdeIond«y till t e even .«^ Hl.on It became moderate and clear; the thermoLle- fill^^ f *^' 111 nils l*Jo».» 9'io Ti '"«' '"ermomeier lalling Irom "I he observations that we w ished ^ "'^ Dec H —Tl-i -! „ • not lb naVi J -i*''' , '^•'^"'«' ^«'' ^•"ccccdcd by a brpcze from ihc no.ll.-o«l. and (he thermomelc.. rose t inus Hi", f )„ (he fdloli^ -i SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVEllY ing da) (here wore light winils and hazy weather. The observatory being Jinislied, we obtained some occultations of slais by vhe niooa. T);e temperature fels to 2fi" minus, in the evening, atv' ueve was an insigninc.vrit aurora. On the tenth there was i\ halo round the moon, sending out r.^ys to a great uistance, in th, lorm of a oross. This was repeated 4>n the followitjij day, and th'' thermometer during the three days ranged betwtea minus ^6° and ^,7". A transit of ^Ulebaran was obtained. There was Httle to aoie this day : the temperature a.i'd weather liaving httle changed, -^nd the men's enn *oymc5;ils reraainiaji, ;i usual. The following wat fient in ihc tssuid ma mer fixed for Him day. It is reaiafkable, that through the la' t ts f;fik, the state ..f ttie other- quicksilver which we h»d on board did not froeze. Tllbrc was another beautiful aurot-a this day. The ice rour^d (lie ship tvas much rent by (he tide, but not so as to allow the water to overllow. l)ec. 18. — Therfc had been a short calm, which \l'as succeeded by another easterly breeze; and the thermometer then rose to mi nus 28". Clouds obsdUt-ed the aurora of yesterday, though it was still partially visible, as if occupying (he whole space from east (n west. t)n the lOth the thermometer went on rising till it reached 17"; but it was far colder, as there was a smart breeze, until allei noon, when it became calm and idoasant. Then was no success in shouting: all animals seemed to have nearly - fried this pari of the coast. Our carpen(er being a musician, ht already to Imvo said t': ■ the men were permitted '• da., .in the Satui'day nights;, hoi ' ' of (his nature having ai. v ; .n!nO, iUii] ,\u ,o ;tagri>ur> ; Vvliiic it \vas r.' . . iivi holidav On found accept ...ssariiy, u Svii TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. l5:i e (>bsepvatOi'y by ^y^e moo a. >n«' o ere was lalo I'oimd the nil of a oross. tliermoirieter :i7°. A transit 5 affi weather remaining ;>^ Use*? for .Sun he stale .fOie It liom's every lid the dbgree wing day, t!ie and we were e weather was the following e inootl. lint the men from to minus 2 1". lempei-ature. the nth, the 3n followed bv gth fell to 37" T from being uated, we had probdblc, as id not froeze. ice roufid the i\ the water to I'as succeeded eh rose to mi though it was I from cast to : till it reachetl ?zc, until aflci vas no success M'ted this part 'it already U» I the .Saturday loiind accept •I- - _-! I uniji a rjfiiu-. •. i pfec. 20.-The aurora still continued; and, in wfnl oi other variety, It afforded us amuseiiient amid this wearisome uniformitv Theie wds much snow drift; and the wind rendered it so cold that ue could not expose ourselves in any manner beyond a fe^ nii- iiutes; the thermometer being at minus 20». After the aui-ora had ceased, It recommenced at night in a more brilliant form, with l)right lashes amid Its other varieties, disappearing a little after ■nidnight. The clearness of the sky over head was such, that wc could see perfectly well in the cabin at midddy, eVeii through the double skylight, though it was covered by snow. Outside the shin, the smallest prmt could be read distinctly. Sunday ^as occupied in the usual manner. ^ Dec. 21. -The wtealliter continued bright ; and though tlic wind changed from the north-west to the north-east, it became calni. The air telt mild, as is generally the case in those circumstances; the thermdmeter being at minus 1 6°. The horizon was so clear that every hlrig oh ,t \vas Visible; ahd thus we sdw all around, more perfectly thart ever, all the land that we had seen several times before. On the next day it was the same, and wo obtained, from the lulls above, a complete view of the horizon, particularly to the southward : where the colouring of the sky xVas most various and splendid ; being a fitter subjetl of painting thari of description, if il was indeted withm thfe limits of art. Much of the show was blown away from the summits of the hills, so as to leave the brown and bare roicks Visible. Dec. 23.— The morning commenced with an oVercast sky and a breeze, but it soon became calm, and was followed by an auro-a of short dutation The same wcdthcr Continued the next day, and the clea. ncss of the sky allowed uh to see stars of ti.e fust magnitude Junng the blightfst part of the tivcnly-four hours, including, ot course, the hour of noon. Venus was also seen in the southern quarter, displaying a bright golden colour. There was again an •"iiora: another to add to a succession of these appearances more regular and durdble thdtt any which had been experienced in llife former voyage to this fclinlale. . I.^*''^ ,~^-7^' was Cht-istmas day. There are few places on the milized earth in which that day is not, perhaps, tW most noted of be year; to all, it is at least H holiday; and there are many to whom 1 IS somewhat more. The elements themselves seemed to have |U; erm.ned that it should be a l.olod day \o us, for il commenced Nvit I a most beaunrul ami splbndid aurora, occupying the whole vault above. A( (,rsf. and for many hours, it displayed a succession ;|l arches, gradually increasing in altitude as (hey advanced from =" aai and p.ocetUcd towards tlic wcslcin side ol (he horizon- «l"lo (he succession of changes was not less brilliant than any that 154 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVEIIY we had formerly witnessed. The church service alloUed for tins pecuUar day was adopted; but, as is the etiquette of tlie naval ser- vice, the holiday was also kept by an unusually liberal dinner, of which, roast beef from our Galloway ox, not yet expended, formed the essential and orthodox portion. I need not say ihat the rule against grog was rescinded for this day, since, without that, it would not have been the holiday expected by a seaman. The stores ol the Fury rendered us, here, even more than the reasonable service we might have claimed ; since they included minced pies, and, what would have been more appropriate elsewhere, though abundantiv natural here, iced cherry brandy with its fruit ; matters, however, of amusement, when we recollected that we were rioting in the luxu- ries of a hot London June, without the heat of a ' dl in Grosvenoi Square to give them value, and really without any especial desire for sweetmeats of so cooling a nature. I believe that it was a happy day for all the crew : and happy days had a moral value with us, little suspected by those whose lives, of uniformity, and of uniform ease, peace, and luxury, one or all, render them as insensible to (hose hr.id-won enjoyments, as unobservant of their effects on the minds of men. To display all our flags was a mailer of course ; and the brilliancy of Venus was a spectacle which was naturally con- templated as in harmony with the rest of the day. Christmas day was followed by a calm and clear morning, with the thermometer ranging from minus 18" to 22". A" few observa- tions by the transit instrument were taken, and there was anothei aurora. This continued till eight on the following morning, and the thermometer sank to minus 32°. Being Sunday, no work was done. There was little change, and nothing new, on the following day; except that the temperature rose several deg eos. On tli? twenty-ninth, it went down as low as 37° minus, so that the su.s pected mercury froze again; but, being calm weather, the cold was not felt to be very severe. Dec. 30. — On this day we saw one hare, having seen two yesterday; so that all the animals had not disappeared. There was very good light during the day, f-ora ten till half after three; and, in the course of it, the temperature rose to minus 20°. There was also a faint aurora ; and some transits of stars were observed. On the following morning the sky was overcast; but the weather felt mild, and the thermometer rose twelve degrees. We found, on shore, the footpiints of a wolf, which seemed to be travelling northward, having passed the ship at no great distance. Our chase of it ended in tracking it two miles, when we lost its traces Thus ended the month of neccmboc, and the year 182'>. Thr temperature had maintained, like the preceding one, where tin' gcngrai results are labulalcd, a medium ratio .ynong those appci m taiuiog to tli temperature short period different yea years differ, llie latitudes island, and >'ictory at F with the m( thereby a gi with a populi The obsen plan than th commodious, dense on the much larger < been perfecti} respect, hpwe tunate month. always obscur usual lunar di be more favoi for the obsen aurora boreal be made, fiom those times. I do not her also mentionec dix and a table inspection, anc ralurcs, the wi work was e following i. On tli« it the su.s- c cold was seen two There was ihree; and, There was ;rved. On I'cather loll found, oil I travcllini; ince. Our t its traces Sn Tho whore (lit; iosc appci TO THE AIICTIC REGIONS. 153 taiuing to the former voyages in tho same month. Uncertain as , temperature here, as elsewhere, must be, when examined under short periods, uncertam as even the monthly means should be, in different years, when we know how the general characters of those I years differ, it ,s a remarkable circumstance, that the means of all the latitudes and longitudes of Melville island, Igloolik, Winter jsland, and Port Bowen, give nearly the actual situation of the I \ .do y at Fehx Harbour, while the temperature there also agrees with the mean temperature of these four positions; indicating thereby a gradual relation of temperature, which is at variancf with a popular theory on that subject Jnal''Z!°l'f '""'' ''''^ '■''""'''^' ^^^ »'""' «" « ™"'=h belter plan than that of former years. Being larger, as well as more commodious, he breath of the observers was not so ready (o^on dense on the mstruments. Our transit instrument was also on a much larger scale bemg of thirty-six inches; whils its position had been peHectly venf.ed by observations on circumpolar Lrs. With respect, hgweveis to observations in general, it had not been a for- tunate month. During its northern declination, the moon had been always obscured by clouds, and thus .lisabled us from obtaining the be more favourable, as we were in an excellent state of preLration for the observations that we were desirous of making On the aurora boreahs which we had so often seen, no experiments could tbTe'tlmer'" ''''' ^'"'^"' '"^ '^'' forc^of the winds at 1 do not iiere note the state of the barometer; as I have seldom Iso mentioned it m the ournal. It is a filter subject for an appen .X and a table; where the whole can be seen togither, on a simp e P ct.on, and where it can also be comparated with the temp^i- almes, the winds and (he weather, at the same time : circumstances vU U. ^^?^'^'^^'r' "'''" "'« ^'^''' P«''t <'f ll'^"' value. VV I, hese ,t will be found in approximation, in the tables on this subject. I need only here say, that this instrument was regularly Xtr'Tl .. r'T'' '° •'^*:^»*'"ty-four hours; being, with some he ha which was used in former voyages, and fu.nished by y. 1 11 - "'^;^''"';'''"y- '^''^ ""'-^'^^ arrangements fur- nislied nothing worthy of record. .ceidillf '?T' '^ '""^'';s''*y f ti^factory to find that not the slightest ceiden .ad occurred from the frost; as, with equal care, we hoped soZcl '"i'^"'"''' '^T»^ 1"''« aware that all care was r^.r;i""'V "^' ■" "" ^''" "'"' '"'"'"8 "»' «" «"Sle after a P % ess through an .•, usive temperature, might instantaneously 'xpose us to an unlor- been blast, to sr.mo m=.!'-i "i c-jis! t '""«', Nv.lh an effect so sudden as to be unavoidable; while'tire V' '"V-^lWll^^ l&ii HECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY sufferer lilnwif ''i-'- tfse only one who does not know what has ha^ pcne(],ati(', s^ i,lii«, ? therefore be Urelrtediably frozen. Willi this g( -, liU %Qf<' ^v.ie of health, it wds painful to see that the pooi anno at'i' wufc approaching to his end ; being, howteVbr, equall\ cdnsL'ioliB bf the ihevilahie event, and prepared lo meet \^hit lie lidd for sdrhe time expected. But it wAs a desliny that he coii!j not k)ng havo prolk'actod, though he had reiiidined ^t home; and we had no rdusun ttJ think that If h,'"' been accelerated by the voyage or the climate. The trial of another month continued lo satisfy lis of thfe gdodnes> of our internal arrangements ; nothing had failcil, JEkbd there \vas hblhing to alter. We Werfe especially plfeased With the Success dl the apparatus for condensing Ihe vapour from wlthiti : thfe principle of which, it lacvldctit, is similar to that of the fcondeiisbr in Wall';, (engine, different afl tile circUtn^lances are. The proof of its cificac\ had been ample : but I must now note, in correction of the fihst statement respecting the qilAntity of ice fcollbcled weekly iri the three cbndchsor^, that it wdd subject tO coQsidferable vdri^tiond. I oiKjirially hlated It rti about a bushel in the day, for the \Vhole: that being the rei^ilt of our firdt trials, before we hdd fully iegu lated the prudiiotion rttid the average of the heat be'Yeeh decks. Biit iii the course of thesb attempts at discovering diia iriaiiitaiiiing the best temperature, it was found to vacillate ; the produce being, in borae wooks, scai-ccly *'our bushels : while we easily ascertained that ttx' quantity incrcused with augmentation of the internal heat, and remarkably so on the days when the washed linen was dried; as a littlt! cunsidoration will show to have been a necessary couse quencc. In thin i«croaHe of the heat there was no advantage ; and as the tomporuturo (irnt adopted wa.':> found unnecessarily high foi comfort f>r use, It was red ced to an average of 45", while Ihc ioc then prt ':;ced \\ . jkly, am. inted to a mean of foiir bushels or less It is not all, tli£kt the men were thus mitde comfortable, aud the interior, with itK vrtriOus materials, kept dry. All necessity foi placing f its efficacv of the flist jekly iii the ^ri^tiond. I the \Vhole: i fully l-egu Yeteh decks. Lrlaihtdining educe being, y ascertained [iteinal heal, I was dried; ;s3ary conse 'aniage; and irily high foi V'hile the ioc shels or lesb ib!e, and llie nccessitj foi d ; and wliilc ince, and not Icrially dimi aged (he at ; and il was, had been the tie o\[H-iisive oint out tlii< the northeri verc il not as r description TO THE AHCTIC HEGIONH. ' ,_„ The school had continued to engage the men's aflrcclions- and iheir cpntmued inpprovement both in knowledg(; and in reliKious and mpral feelings, was evident. It would hj^vo been valuable oven though it had foupd uo more than an occnpnlic.n- and in some maimer or other, we contrived to be s^\wnyn occupied The piuspilflf game was indeed an unproductive one, but it was still exercise, and it was variety ; while )ve amused ourselves with hope in defect oi hares: often traced, seldom seen, and so seldom shot' that our sporting book was nearly a blank. In some manner or other, however, the last three months, constituting the whole period of our durance iip to this point, had passed away without weariness and had indeed been almost unfelt; while, I may add, that we had hcen under no necessity of inventing any idle omusements for the pinpose cl killing time. Those amor the men who were am- bitious, thought, I believe, that it had passed too quickly; since thev foresaw that the dyties of the summer days would render it ne cessaiy to interrupt the school, before they had made the progress ol which they were so desirous. " The retrospect of the past year presented a mixed picture of good and ( il: as il indeed, this is not the historv of human life at J^irge. The expedition itself was at one time a fliing almost beyond h( ;.«; It had been fitted and despatched by the spirited and liberal "i don merchant," whose name can never bo forgotten. Unex- pected, and afterwards unavoidable and incorrigible misarrange- ments, d vexed, detained, and disappointed us, had Hllcd the (lespo ;.u; with fears and forebodings, and had not left even the luoie cpnfidenf ithout anxiety. Yet the end was far better than we had hoped was better than any one could have expected - since we had outstripped in distance ou. predocossors through the same strait, notwithstanding all the advantages, in time and in all else, which they had possessed over us. We had been in frequent and imminent peril, and had been rescued : yet not by cIToris of our own: and thus we hoped for the futui. protection which we should still more labour to deserve. If, ihiih far too, wo had pursued the " chimera of a north-west passage," as it has been termed, there were hopes before us, of following it out to a much further result- ol ascertaining, at last, this unknown portion of the American geography, which, I j. esume, has been long tho limit of the hopes ol all sensible men on this subject. We were in an advanced posi- tion, with a new summer about to give its earlii-st notices in no long time ; apd when the period should come to set u» free, every new step would be a new discovery. If our reflections also turned to Kugland, it was not to regret an — r — "" ~»: iiiigiii j.-un.-.::::; r.urn v, 7 ine now year; but we w ere disappointed that we had found no means of sending an \bH SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY account of ourselves since our departure from the Danish seltlemeiu at Holstciuborg, in July. We had met no whalers ; but, considering what our course and the season had been, these ships could easily inform our friends, that not to have met with us was no reason for doubling (>i our security; while all knew that we were provided with a winter home, with all indeed that our own homes could have furnished, in the wreck and the stores of the Fury. ABSTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. Comiiiciiceinent — Dcscriptioi lertaiiicd on niisc more. OCTOBER, 1820. 57 3 2 N.150. NbW.99. W.68. 27 S. 41 E. 0. 1 2 WhS.lO. 2 2 SbKiiO. 28 EbNril7. fi3 NNW.ni. 8 W'SW.46. SSE" 0. I) ENE. 0. 2 1) 2^1 U NWbN.I29. NW085 3 5 "SW.115 I 6 "SE. 18. 0_ NE.O, SVV'bWo. 0_ SEbE. 0. NEbE. 0. NWbW.20. _1 (i_ SWbS. M. "SEbE7 0, I 2 NEbN'. W. 3 5_ WNW.73. 1 8_ SSW. 27. 4 "ESE. 20. 20 NNE. 77. I 2 WbN.M. 0_ SbW.O. 0_ EbS. 0. NbETO. Higbesf , lowest, ana mean ) +24—16-7 'I44. temperature . . f ' Total force of the Wind . . — Total. (JOO hour*. 45 do. calm. 744^31 days. jjean force of the Wind ISTfi (074 NOVEMBER, 1829. 03 N.302. 4 W.I6. 11 S. 34. E, 0. 2 NbW'.4. WbS.O. _0 ShETo EEnTo. 24 NNW.BO. 8 WSVV.IO. "SSEi 0. 4 eNl.4. NWbN.O. _ 0_ SWliW.O. 0_ 'SEbS. 0. _22 NEbE". 43. 4 I NW.142. NWbW.O. 32. SW.45. 2_ SE.4. 54 "nk: i3fl. _ _ SWbS. 0. SEbE. 0. I OX NEbN. 227- 22 WNW. 49. IJ "SSW. 13. __9 ESE. 26. 1 3 4 NNE. 3m. U \VbN.O. SbW.O. 0_ EbS. 0. 20 NbRm Total. 590 hours. 121 do. calm. Highest, lowest, and mean 1 +26— 37— J W temperature . . f Total force of the Wind . . 1649 720^30 days. mean force of the Wind 51.90 DECEMBER, 1829. 7_3 N.I58. 4 2 W,102. a. 159. 32 _0_ 6 5 () NbW.O. SSW.203. NWI)N'.31. 0_ WbS.O. WSW.O. SWbVr.O. 8 SbE. 0. SSE." 28. 'SEbS. 0. 8 3 NVV.2C7. NWbW.O. 50 SW7l39, SWbS. 0. 3_ _0 SE. 9. SEbE. 0. 1 9 1 2_ WNW. 54. 39 _ SSW. 116. 5 ESE. 7. 49 _ WbN.O SbWTo. 0__ EbS.O. 24 E.44.' EbN.O. ENE.O. NEbE.O. NE,76. NEhN.O. NNE. 132. \bE 89 Total. .')79 hours. 165 do calm. Highest, lowest, and mean \ temperature . ) Total force of the Wind . 744.31 day«. Mean force of (he Wind -«-37-23.08 . 1614 . bT07 NWy,-4f.l IIG SWy SEy. NEy. = CO m rm NWy.MSj SWy ^ •■ SEy. = h NEy, - Jll 5!fl NWj .W SWy :l.1l SEy. .^« NEy. -124 j\. B.— TA< numtralor signifies hours. 57 Ex. N."lr,o ■ 57 hotiri, Korth vthcity tfthf V/ind 16". J.AN. 1, I8J (iful weather minus 16°, fi the beautiful from anythini liills on the h purple sky ah analogous twi of the Christri . lliemenjwhc quality as Ihei liarmonious p our climate; a what matters liappy ? At 1 into.xicated ; t estimation of Froissarl, that ourselves "bie resiilL Jan. 2.— La within a few h( lemarkable hal was found to bi nearly three T: e loose pieces ha (here attached, and the cold m lower than 19" leinperafure bei 'I was Sunday, Jan. 4, — Thf "vercast sky ; a TO THE arctk; regions. 151) jh seltlemeiu , considering could easily o reason for re provided s could have 2 NWy.-.WI )N.14. I) SWy.rllii IVTO. )_ SEy. - m iS. 0. ) NEy. ^ ft) lE.'O. — fpi.K) ) NWy-l5i iN.O. • SWy ^ ■: v.o. L_ SEy. = h S. 0. 0_ NEy. ^Jll E 125 — NWj .?.« NO. I SWy t13I v:o. I SEy. = 95 s.o. 4 NEy. ^121 EM — 579 flHtwindi^O: CHAPTER XYl rominciiceincnt of the Ye,-ir iH^n i?-« . -Description of he^^l' | L' Tl d „ Zr'^ "'I'' "''. L^'»""'"»"^ «" ""« Coa«t ■ niise more. "^ Geographical Informal ion, and pro- IiilUon the horizon beinj? of a np-irlv test heat minus 1". Tlio IhicKness of the weather, in creasing in the evening, turned out provokin}^; but did not finally prpvent us from getting an occuUation (»f Vldebaran by the moon, together wit)i one of Capel'a, and Homo others of inr'porlance. Ii happened that the hares appeared in numbers to-day, ,ind one \va>. shot, a cipcumstancp wortli noticing, beenuHC, in the former ex|if ditions, they ha(| never been found ho ioto in the season as January 'f'he fabrication of & snow staircaxe, with n wall, found useful cm nloyment as well as amusement for the men, who hau icarned (> firide themselves in the beauty and porfccti at llic same period of the year in former voyages, while the raiisc was, probably, the greater shallowneM of ilie water. Another «tli scnre aurora made its appearonce in the/enith. On the follosvini; day, the 17th, a brilliant sky at Ion ki the morning presented an entirely new aspect; the space nliove the netting moon being ol i lich golden colour, and that near the ttun's place displaying i Iright silvery tint ; both of them tho rovcrno ol what is the uMiai rule in other climates. .jail H. — The wind increafied, with a Know drift ; hut a line ni) meter was at minus W" .Again, many of the rocks on (he liill^ v\ere cleai ployed to- preparator exit of our Jan. 9.- I'ormed me reeded acci Esquimaux a mile fron perceived n out of their with one m ting in a si niander Hos to keep at a a hundred j knife, but sa Knowing Tinin fhna, by a general called in froi ne .idvanced with the cry learned it, o threw their I (liming the s also iiere wi \\v Klvanced, "*'■■'••■ g dow th.j Cs.ali;;sh« great delight, and .strange g( blished in the Commande informed that •hey were mc the eldest, cal twcen forty an tlie number b( with the old ii them having other having dretiscd, in exc •ind enoirolinir "•iddle of the" TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. tliat all the preseBting, itencd by (lie to conceive, |)iclure9«iiip, Such it is. and, abov( ay be a pool ; > him; unless . Whaiovei ipted in tlii.< othing- to tli • liich the face the meridian lark, thoiii,'li ing minus 8 . wcathei, in id not finally )y the mooii, x'llanco. Ii and one wa^ i'oj'mer cxpr n as January d useful em 10 icarned (c icy archilec !i'y cold; luii t variety. \ 1 our ronnn iir thick; 1)11! d been Ion ' iiilo the caiisf Another oli the following presented an m beinn ol ;i di.splayin(( i . is the uMKii It a fine ni| on the hill* 161 by the were cleared of their snow l.loyed to-dr.y as well as yesterday in bringing gravel"to7h^ "'" preparatory to the cutting of a canal which we [ntendid t 7' exit of our ship when the time should arrive ^^'^ Jan. 9.— Going on shore this morning nno nf «l.n lormed me that strangers were seen fZuhe obs rv 0'?"? "" ooeded accordingly in the direction pointed ourand soon -i f ''"' Lsquimaux near a small icebertr inf «v„> fn^ .1 . , ^"^ '^"'' a mile from the ship. rCTe^rea ed bib V f '""^' ""'^ "^""^ mander Hoss to n me toirp(iin..„Mii. "v •^""panion lor Com- i-a anil hnixmii. u'bich to their c<|ii"'^«''- S several for ne v^^y'^'e '"J '^ '^'"""'''^"IT.' . ''«'^'^'^'' f''«'» '^e •ecognised thertHe'S so?" fh?' ^'' '«'"'' '*'* '»'«y '°«'«ntly glasses, as usual, were however li ."' T" '""'"• '^''^ '««»''«»- a., especially, wari' JX of /hi' t'^ "''"''' "' asion.shment, Scarcely le/s sHrpH^ wa exci 1^''!,'' ? *'"'" ''"'^^•^^ •»i'''"0'-- s(ioks; but thernever o^e ZL Z^**'" '""P *"'' *»'»' ««ndle- of anything; 7e ".Ving n ^r^ 7,^1^ '''" '^ ^T^" '''""^^'ves '».ank(„lnes..h«tco2notTelistk n"^^^^^^^ IT ^^ preserved meal- but nnnJ^ 7 .^ *'"' °«' ^'''t our matter of oM L'ncc al. ^ ' " ""''""'^ '''""''^ '« ^« it as . -ng cross ;ero:;d i! :'^r2,:r.i r;-"?' r *a» not true; on which, «|| the rej 1 - " ''•' "'row away ^vhat they had taken But* Z "^ pi-mns^ion , "llered some oil, drank it wi h m/.^K • ^^'*"•"« '"an, on being was reallv uood iT. a l?^ «al'sfaction, admitting, that it adapted to Zw e^mZ^'^rfi' "7 ^ '««'*"« «f «" 'h-e trt ii,„,„ «„d Ignorance; "while if (hey "had li* ItU SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCO VEKY been imlucetl to partake, it could liavc been only under tbo impulse of starvation. In succession, three more were treated in the same manner, while the first set proceeded to amuse the rest witii what they had seen. A sliort race was also run between one of them and an officer ol our party; but with so much and such equal politeness on both sides, that there was no victor to be declared. The violin beiii^ afterwards produced, they joined our men in dancing; and thus seemed, whether it was the fact or not, to have a much greater relish for music than had generally been found among the olhei tribes by our predecessors. \t being now necessary to separate, we proposed to accompany them part of the way to their huts, the duection «)f which they pointed out ; making us understand that their wives, children, dogs, and sledges, were all at home, and that they had abundant . of provisions. During our walk we met a seal hole on the ice, ami they showed us the use of the spear in enlarging it for the recep- tion of a twig of ash or birch, together with their method of throw ing that weapon. But we could not make out by such inquiries, what was of chief importance to us, namely, the direction of any open sea. They, indeed, pointed to the north as being the phuo in question ; but not being able to understand from them what lay to the soulhward and westward, we were obliged to defer furlhei questions to another day. Having proceeded about two miles, we now made a mark on tl»e ice as the pi ice of rendezvous on tlu- following day, when they were made to understand that we should visit their huts : a proposal which was received with the highest satisfaction. We parted under the same ceremonies which had atteoded our meeting. This was a most satisfactory day, for we had given up alt expecla tions of meeting inhabitants in this place; while we knew that it was to the natives that we must look for such geographical infomatimi as would assist us in extricating ourselves from our difficulties and in pursuing our course. It was for philosophers to interest them8clvi>s in speculating on a horde so small, and so secluded , occupying so apparently hopeless a country, so barren, so wild, and so repulsive; and yet enjoying the most perf«»c! vigour, the most weM-fed health. and all else that here constitutes, not merely wealcfa, l»ut the opu lence of hixurj; since they were as ampiv fMrni«l»«d with provi worn, am with ev«ry other tbinif ihat could be necetwiry lu then wants. Knd if the wwalist is inclined to »peoulate on the Baturf and distribution of bajipmess in this world, on the admirablr adaption found, here it* ekfiwhere, between the desire* an I (Ih- ___4;i'. %UI sol tcr"?! ibfi Haqi]. which, um spreads for Jan. 10. held unusui (lie thermo at the app( to be a leat up his arms away our gi warlike ins with the us was now i through the Tlic villaf at the bottoi half from (I and were p crooked app which were We were sc presents of j drove away pearance. The passf principal apa diameter wh ten where it of snow, occi two feet and skins ; I'ormi At the end c lamp, which, lliese regions M) that the a was the cook seals, with oil • liing else, dr( unspcakaMc c class of their It was muc disorder (here lind Ihm (ish, plies w iutii W( 'ifortunti ijiut I'l o.pf»,f of a • TO THE ARCTIC liKfilONS. ,„j wluch undcM- the most apparently hopeless ci.ani.stances th... spreads for His creatures, a table in the wildorness Jan. 10. —After divine service, which, for that purpose wr- held nnusnaJly early, we proceeded to perform our promise though (he thermometer had fallen to minus 57". We iLnd tl^ na^i'e at the appomted place, and, on approaching, one. lo ^ppS fo be a leader or chief, came a hundred yards in advlnce Zld nf up h,s arms to show that he had no weapons. We therefore Sew away our guns; on which all the rest, in the rear, t r"w thn> warh e mstrmncnts into the air, as they had done before a^d uUh the usual exclamations, waited our approach. The nmnll; uas now mcreased by about twenty children, and L wm fhrough the usual forms of salutation. ""wewuii The villagesoon appeared, consisting of twelvesnow huts, erected at the bottom of a hltle bight on the shore, about two mi k Su half from the sh.p. They had the appearance of inverted basins and were placed ^without any order 'each of tln^m hav „g a E crooked appendage, in which was the passage, at tl e emLnce „! which were the women, wi.h the female ch Idren and mf fntf V\c were soon mv.led to vinit thes., for who.n we ha3 „ et^^^^^ .resents of g ass bead, and needle.; a distributiun of vv£?Zr1 The passage, always long, and generally crool-ed. led to lh« ).nnc.pal apartment, which was a circular do.ne, betng ten fc" t in .hameter when mtcnded for one family, an.l an oval Sf i^ 'en " ten where ,t lodged two. Opposite the doorway tl'e e t ' a bank of snow, occupying nearly a third of the breadth of the a ; . ITut wo fee and a half high, level at the top. and oo e d y Cap^:. . n whiH. b ' r "'" """";*'*•' "^ "'« '"»"^*'' «l'P««iic to tin: .' np. which, being of moss and oil, as is the univoi'sd custom il 1 ese regions, gave a sufficient flame to supply bu.h l.gh, rd ^ " .othal the apartment was perfeclly ooml'ortahle. ()l t e lal' .islmWir"'' """' '"^"•''•'^•'"K '•» - <" find, that among thi- .Mmler here were some fresh salmon ; since, when they ro Id '« Him fish, we were sure that it would also fura«,h „s ^^LZT Pip wh.c!, we could not too much multiply. (I„ mq„i, v w' ^T- ifforiued that il.»., .j^....- -t. . . . '. ^ " ""i"" ♦< we Wflr« I--P- . ol a new nmu,,ement, as well a, of a vauiaWrnM.k;/': «« 106 SECOND VOYAGr v F DISCOVERY l>rrv. t the mere price of our labour. They now offered us, in return (or our presents, anything which we might choose; and we accord- ingly selected some spears, and some bows with their arrows; together with an ear ornament of iron ore, being a ball attached to a string, and some specimens for our collection of natural history; the former object being rendered more ornamental by some foxes' teeth that were attached to it, with a fringe of sinews in addition. Some more needles, which we now added to our former gifts, served to gain their unreserved confidence and friendship. Of these huts, built entirely of snow, I must add, that they were all lighted by a large oval piece of clear ice, 'ixed about halfway up on the eastern side of the roof; while the variations among^he different ones that we inspected were trifling. But we also saw afterwards, what had escaped us before where was fii- little light to discern anything, that about the middle of each passage was an antechamber leading into a recess for the dogs. It was obvious, ioo, that the externa' aperture could be turned at any time, so as to be always on the lee side, and thus prevent the wind from entering. We found that these huts had been but just erected : they were scarcely a day old ; so that the architectural processes of this country did not occupy much time. It was also ascertained that their winter stock of seal and reindeer was buried in the snow, that this store was laid up in the summer, and that they returned to it in the winter. Hitherto, this practice had not been foimd among the natives of these countries; whether overlooked or not, we could not decide. The females were certainly not beautiful; but they were, at least, not inferior to their husbands, and were not less well behaved All above thirteen years of age seemed to be married ; and there appeared three or four such in every house, whether belonging to one establishment or not, we were not sure, but app«^aring to be the young wives in a house where there was one old one. Theii stature was short, and they were much inferior in dress and neat- ness to the men -, their hair especially being in a matted and dis- ordered state. Their features were mild, and their cheeks, like those of the men, ruddy ; one girl of thirteen was even considered to have a pretty face. All were tattooed to a greater or less extent, chiefly on (he brow, and on each side of the mouth and chin ; this ornament con.si.-.ling in lines alone, without any peculiar figures, an!•!><> dav§. They, however, told us that one of their party was a much better geographer than t This philosophies that eighteen of tl too cold for the v till dinner time wil seemed to recogni of the persons mi had we known '"«■ ''°'"'i"B -en ,1,0.^ 1 . *^' 'earned, have contrived to cet rid n( ^0^=1.^ II ^ ""^ *"^ P'^'^'^ a mere sinecure; so universallv sue it ?f !: T' r" °" '''''' ^''^ '^ -^ '^''^ the tr ub" o puisuejt It IS almost a proverb, that there is no roval road Z arable to\r' " I'^'^'u^^ ^^y^'^y -"^'^ have desS ; ho ? S^e of Cwtn '*' ^'' '''''' ^'^""'^ '^y ^hose to v^^hom tl^ IhSes exert thim^' "'"" '" '^ "'^'^"^ -''«"-- ^'-y «- sciL'ceTn'tS'll'i.T rrlJ'''.-^"'' "'^^ quests, there was no penny . wa abso e a, th. n '.i'"-^*' '' '"'^''^^^^ ^^''^ '^''^' admirLion^ iLr tS on. h « '^'^r ^^^^nf-yf^en had been the day be- n he ribhren ' f 'f "' ''^^i "^ ^'>^''' '«"«''«"«« ^'«« displayed Cdtorpi.T "* P'""* P'"Jdi"g' with which we had vainly themZlu h!^ A C ^"^ ''**"^""''' ^^^ *««*« ^'"ch has, m ru nioK oursTthe sS t '^t'T'"^^'^" ^''^h^'-- ^'"^•■i^^n neigh? dronl n! '^"'''^^f^- If' however, these tribes must final y .ni„a^::r •;'lL'L!^.l';^:_««."' ••"'"V^ha" that they should be exter- -ce .hero ,. a, l.„., ,„,„. p,,„,„,,,, ^„^^ ^ ., ,^ ,: , »!• ™»J-I. it t ' no SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY while lliei'e itt a\no a voluntary, if slow suicide, in excbange for murder and misery. Is it not the fate of the savage and the ud civilized on thiit earth to give way to! the more cunning and the better informed, to knowledge and civilisation? It is the order ol the world, and the right one ai»nv',ed with gold. Let no mt«n imagine that he knows what a p» ev«irn is worth, till he has found what happiness can be produced by '« iine bead, a yellow button, a needle, or a piece of an old iee.n l-rtop. A ¥«ry cold breeze prevented us from escorting them on their journey, as wo had intended. We did nothing else on this day, but remove some small stores out of the way, lest they should tempt these hitherto honest people, and thus make us guilty of teaching them a vice to which they appeared strangers ; a vice common among all savages, and too much so, even in some of this race, as we are assured by the experience of many navigators. CHAPTEH XVll. Hcceive roorft (ioograpliical Inrorinatioii from one of the Natives calliul Ikmalliii-' Conlinuc oiir Cominuiiications with them — Pure Mercury freezes at length, al iniiiUH 30"— Tho llrnt Hiinrise of the Year— Death of the Armourer — End of llie Month, and Nummnry. JAN. Ii, — t KK proiiiiscd uyiiroKrapuSr, ikmsisia, came to us 'hi'? morning, accompanied by Tiagasliu, and they were taken into ihr cabin ; six others wi of the men. The (ii had killed several method being, as n; them by the spear placed in the hole breathe. Thus is t overmatch for the our friends of this < to be ranked in the Some paper cont twecn Repulse bay ; them, with the nami at once recognised ; to prolong the sket very considerab!'^ sp this, he prolonged i the north, as the latt west, in a direction however, insert the i it was estimated fron bay ; but he drew V also several other rii our ship could sail t mation we were oblij We showed our i had been known and which had been dii nances at the same tin both of them express( between those persoi they were inclined to Ikmallik, was a stron being the paragon ol man of unusual powe all home, happy and i Jan. 13.- A therm day ; but the wind wa Iheir village, imarmed told that we meant to springing up against nnnc!/1/>>.«Ll_ . > "-■•■''^■^lauiv : un wn notice whenever it wa TO THE ARCTIC REWIONH. „j cabin; six others who attended them beinir turned nv«.. .« .1 of the rnen. The first information wl'lSe et^^^^^^^^^ Zl had killed several seals on the day before at th/HpTl K«l f^ niethod being, as many reader. peVapral'r: dy know to trl's t ( e,n by the spear, when the agitation of the signal tw^Sas placed m the ho e of the ice shnn/c «l,„» ^ ^N^ >s\ [V 33 WEST MAIN &TREIT WI9STER,N Y 14580 (716) 872-4303 ci^ rri SECOND VOYAGE OK dUsCOVEUY our faces that were in danger of suffering, that we might rub tlicm for restoring the circulation. The women had lost much of their timidiiy, on this our second visit : and finding that the seal-hunting party was absent, we en- tered Tnlhiahiu's hut, where we met a kind reception from his mother, wife, daughter, and two young children, forming his appa- rent family. A complete female dress had been made ready as a present fjr me ; being of the materials and construction already described, with an appearance of unusual cure in adjusting the symmetry of the skins, so that the coloais should correspond on each side ; while there was a fringe below , and a border of wiiilc ro nd the Imod and the openings for the arms. I had no duulit that it was a lirst-rate specimen of mantua-making ; and it was my business to estimate it as a London lady would have done the loflicst production of the highest dress-maker in the calendar ol fashion. In return, I presented this generous lady with a !»ilk handkerchief; being the article, of all that I had shown her, which attracted her chief admiration. I soon lound too, that this per- sonage, woman though she was, did not want a knowledge ol geography, and that, also, of a different nature from what hlie might have acquired in an English boarding-school, through the question book and " the use of the globes." Tiriksiu, for that \va> her name, perfectly comprehended the chart; and being furnished with the means, drew one of her own, very much resembling it, but with many morn islands : adding also .the places where we must sleep in our future progress, and ihose where food was to he obtained. On these points, at least, it was an emendation of the knowledge we had attained before. The hunting party now returned, with a large white seal : wliili' the rest of our crew also joined us, having experienced the sanif kind treatment wherever they had been, and having seen, among the people, large quantities of venison and lish which had evidently been buried in the srow. The politeness of the natives, as it must be esteemed, caused a party to accompany our men on their way, in apparent return for the same civility before shown by us ; hut, after a time, they asked leave to depart, and we separated with the usual noisy forms. It was settled at the same time, that Tulluahiii should come for his wooden leg the next day, while the rest wrif to resume their seal hunting. It was exceedingly cold on our way back to the ship, and I did not escape without losing some .'•kin from one cheek. We had seen thiee ptarmigans in the morning, but it was in vain that we tried to start them again on urn return. Jsf? 14 — The «brrfnom#{(?r M\ »rom ifs station of sninss^ "W* l;!^! eveniog.to^lK*; and as the breeze made it very cold, I doubted it om patient wo acoompani with an el party. Th ihsre accc the mate, the length man for w lowing da} pppvious ii there was if there wa one. That th( because th together w both to the houses of tl while we c( we inferred bay, Ihougl of life and t Desiring from below prevailed oi and arrang( her appeara lions. Thii these tribes a stock of ct to each of tl; of far less ui Ian. 15.- This was th( meter by wh were satisfle al'ter'vards I wn her, which that this pei- knowledgc of from what slio )l, through till' iu, for that \va> icing furnitihcd senibling it, but A'here we must lod was to hf ?ndation of the lite seal : while jnced the samp ig seen, auioni; :h had evidently lives, as it niiiiil on their way, >wn by us ; i)ui. arated with tlio that Tulluahiii B the rest weir :()ld on our way ising some skin iu the morninf!, again on om I doubted il (>ii> TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,., I III patient would keep his appointment. He came, however, by noon accompanied by h-. fr.end Otookiu, whose wife Kuanga togeE with an dderly woman, four men, and two boys, completed Iho party. The three principals were taken into the cabin, as we could sre accommodate no more, and the rest were left n charge of he mate The wooden leg was then fitted, to ascertain whetl.er the length was correct; and as it had, after this, to be finished the man for whom it had been made was desired to return on the d! lowing day A re-examination of the chart added little to our previous information ; but what wc could conclude was tha .here was a great bay between Akullee and this place, and ha .f^there was any opening to the westward, it must be a very narrow That they knew what it was to delineate land, was evident because they drew the lakes near llepulse bay v;ry accu atelv oget her with the places of several inlets and ilers L tl cS both to the southward and westward. They had heard of the S houses of the other Esquimaux, but had nots'een them; and I ence while we concluded that they had never been on the ^ast coas " so we ,n erred that this Jribe does not travel out of the hmi so 'this ay though we could not yet be sure of the nature of Zr mode ol hie and migrations. moae Deling to go at one o'clock, the rest of the party were called from below : and wo ^yero entertained to find hat ^ro mate Ld prevailed on the elderly dame to have her hair cut, and combed and arranged; the result making such an advantageorcCS her appearance, that all of them desired to undergo fheameoperr Ee trib r "''l "" '""""' ''f'y '^*' «"'^"-" -d tasTe among hese tribes ; making me regret that 1 had not provided myself wi"h s ock combs, as presents ; but the string of beads wh h Jave Ian. 1 5 -We tried some mercury, known to be pure, and it froze This was the test of a temperature of 3JI« minus ; and as he ti.ermo meter by which wc were now observing stood a the same marl T: were satisfied with its accuracy, as far as this point atTa. thfrS alter.;ards to 4-, being, hitherto, our lowest degree. Tho Iri .onal horizon was less clear than usual, so that we derived much less advantage Irom the sun's noondaj t vilight. TlioTrtTn "f yesterday camo alone; it wa« understood that he r "t liad ZZ t «nt for seals. The promised leg. being now con pete, 2s JUt S t^iF!:^:::!:!!^y^^!^'^^^^"\ "^-.-^ «»- cabin i::!z;z 174 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY sui^ery of this case lay indeed with the carpenter ; not the worst operator, I believe, in this compound profession ; but I doubt if anv effort of surgery ever gave more satisfaction than we had thus con- ferred, in reproducing a man fully serviceable once more to himsell and his community. The gratitude, however , in this case, took a very amusing course; yet, though somewhat ludicrous to us, it was natural in them, whu had no reasons to doubt their own medicinal knowledge ; while tlie only medical superiority that we had yet di!>played, consisting in a greater command of timber and tools chiefly, was not such as to render them suspicious of their own powers. But whatever llie vanity might be, the good will was unquestionable. The poor armourer, they saw, was worn to a skeleton ; and as Otookiu was an Angekok, or conjuror, and physician in one, they proposed (o apply their charms towards the cure of our fast-wasting patient. It is true enough, that diseases can be conjured out of a man's body, or mind, as is more likely ; and that were it not for the power of conjuration, physic would want its right hand, even in London, abounding in other successful Angekoks than the several bold quacks, who, each in his own department, heals all the diseases of his own peculiar set of gulls. But our poor man's case was too serious to permit our countenancing such trifling as this; and the proposition was therefore passed by, till it was forgotten amid the other objects of attraction by which the attention of our new friends was so fully occupied. The leg was inscribed with the name of the ship, and packed up in the sledge, as it was not yet suflicienlly familiar for a ' -nny of two miles through ice and snow. That wc parted b( i-iends than ever, cannot be doubted We learned to-day that . iiluahui had a brother who was engaged with a parly further north, whom he intended shortly to join for the purpose of hunting the musk ox ; that there was cxcellimt salmon fishing in spring and summer, and there weroalso large fish in the lakes ; whil:; he further informed us, that they wore to continue for the present in this place, as they had taken many seals the day before. We regretted to have ascertuiiid, that under the same language, their dialect ditlercd much from the vocabularies in the books, and also from the Danish diclionaiy of the Esquimaux tongue which we |>088essed. We had there- fore an interest in studying it seriously, since it was likely to be our chief future source of information : and, in this pur- [Huit, Commander Boss, very naturally, proved the most api scholar. Jan. 16. — Three natives came on board to-day, reporting thai they had killed six seals the day before. Tiagashii, the son of thr old nian of the tribe, was amongst the most intelligent that we li»l conversed v added any! amused, as • we made ol wooden-leg! ceived tin ca aach ; and c us that they thermometei inconspicuoi Jan. 17.- temperature divine servici was over, th I need not sa were preserv character, as formed us of week's hunt tliough they i were repeate two of the m the bands of t perature, ma two were wil (hey all depai Jan. 18.—' the wind of sequently so which we ha< S2» in the cou 9". It was a was much le •he north-we nbouts. It did not, t ceding one ha arriving early after which th fraud attemptc pardonable on hiishand, as W( of this scheme which we exG the men was lOt the worst doubt if anv ad thus con- re to himsell using course; n them, who je; while the )nsisting id a )t such as to whatever llie The poor Otookiu was proposed to iliag patient. 1 man's body, the power of in London, several bold e diseases of case was too liis; and thr Iten amid the rnew friends id packed up a •' "ney of be j'iends iht . iilualiui north, whom he musk ox ; summer, and ' informed iis, >, as they iiad J ascertained, uch from the dictionary of ! had there- vas hkciy to in this pur- he most apt oporting thai le son of thr t that we had TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,,., conversed «-iih ; but neither of them, after inspecting ihe chart added anythmg new to our previous mformation. They were amused as these people had always been, with the sketches^S we made of U.em, and laughed heartily at the portraits of he wooden-legged man and his Companion. Those i had not Ip ceivedtmcamsters before, as presents, were now reated with on; 3ach; and on partmg, if we understood them rightly thev i2m«J us that they had lately seen some of the people foS gSd^Thl thermometer fell to 42" minus, in the evening, and there was an inconspicuous aurora. ^ ^" Jan. 17. -After having been at 43" miiKus in the morning th« temperature rose a few degrees in the course of the dTy. Du'r „^ d.v.ne service, f.veof the Esquimauxoame totheship ; and af erZ was over, they were admitted. That Sunday is un^known 'o them I need not say The features of an elderly man, Holishaktoo whid; rLT"'''f rrf "'*' ^'^^'^'^ considerably from the 'ene a haracter, as .f he had belonged to a different tribe They j^^^ formed us of the capture of five more seals ; makin/up the 11" diough they should even lake no mJre at this time. t£ presets Z onr''''' f ^*'^°'''' '^ '^'''' ^''^ ^^^ °ot received an^ and two of the number were pleased to Ket rid of thpir Koon^^ ' T the bands of ti.e mate, /he Hsing'^f'a l„7art'w nd ^^ perature, made us invite them to remain for 'henighJ; bu thoS sequently so thick at noon, that we could not' see the sun o"n which we had calculated. The thermometer, however ro"; ^o 82- m the course of the day, and, at nine at night, was bu m!nis 9 . It was a day of absolute imprisonment, of co. rse. The wL was much less severe on the followinfr dav having hptn 7 .he^oorth-westward. with the baroLtt^'af "^i"fo 'orther It did not. therefore, prevent the visit of our friends as th« nm cedmgonehad unquestionably done , three mrand wo fov^ a nvrng early .n the forenoon, and remaining with us a few ho3 tlat^ ?7 '^'^''''^ ^'"' '*'— ' g?atif!catrs. The "; Ira.id attempted on us occurred to^lay, but it wa^ a nnmnJo^n par o„ab,e„„ A boy bogged a caniLrlbr hrmoth r 'who J hu. band, as we found, ha:tt she had the figure of a globe standing on two pins ; but black piercing eyes, added to ruddy cheeks and youth, produced a pretty face, where our standard ol beauty had ceased to be fixed at a very high soil, nepho\ wedding da squabbles, fi tln'relore, w doubt if it c( village : as i atlach to u ri self, and u n furred poopi iinportani th. -Morning Von had enabled pliy of our y a more littin loot was in p 't on the folh They dopa people's (iiiio llie professioi Rinall circle, i It would have parent or hn Jcsert island, 'lie same »m\ ^ TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,„ ..alono wife i,e,|„iva|„„i lo any XnlnlmkJS h "™'?"' .11 iiuiii(t i„„i („ ,1, |,„, walking on snow, and ''"«l«'n., and scparalcd from all tl c\vL Id 1 if: 178 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ol'llic inevilnl)le evcnl ha«l blunted those leelingsand wearied tlioso rellcotions. The task, however, was executed in silence, at least: and it was not for any of us to inquire of the feelings of those who were employed in this painful oflice. The sun was really brilliant at noon, and considerably elevated : it was a regaling sight ; while it also gave a promise that could not be broken, the promise of increasing in brightness and duration every day. This is indeed a sunrise, though more in promise than performance, to which all the splendour of morning sans in a southern climate is as nothing. It is an ever welcome luminary, undoubtedly, when it first announces day, to all at least whom an artilicial life has not corrupted ; it is welcome even to them, should chance afford them the means of seeing the morning's rise. Hut it is a far other morning to those who have been deprived of the sight of the glorious sun fur weeks, who have seen little more than a prolonged evening for months, lis rise seems a new life; ami though it has here finished its almost momentary career before \vc can well say, it is here, there is the certainty of a better to-morrow, the assurance that summer is to come, and that it is now truly ap- proaching. The 22d of January was the finest day that we had seen for a long time ; and though the temperature was at minus 35", it was so calm that the cold was little felt. The owner of the new leg came to us, with a large party, including a flock of boys from five to thirteen years of age : and the new foot, being ready, promised so well, that we could scarcely prevent him from returning imme- diately, that he might try its powers. The magnitude of the be- nefit seemed indeed to overwhelm both himself and his friends : and we felt, of course, carpenter and all, the aill triumph of su- perior civilization; and the people themselves evidently admitted that we were a more cunning race then they, though we could not equally harpoon seals at an ice hole, nor eat walrus flesh slewed in train oil. Thus much for the useful arts. Navigators have often missed that acknowledgment of superiority which they expected in the esti- mation of savage nations, by furnishing them with objects of pure luxury ; and when, finding their error or not, they have desired to do better, they have forgotten that new wants cannot be formed iii a moment, nor old habits broken in half a day, by a bottle of porter and a beefsteak, or an uncomfortable pair of breeches : that custom hIouc, were vanity of no account, causes the savage to estimate Iiis own clothing, or the want of any, at a much higher rale than ail which even a Stulz could produce, to value and cling to his own modes of life, and his own food, repulsive as it may be to ourselves far beyond all that can be oHered in exchange. A wiser politician would measure tl beneficence or imj this in improvers errors of well-m< on this subject; I wooden leg, raise all the wonders w than the superiot they could not apf It was not politi our acquaintance: a further display, 1 now produced, ex phrases, a strong more than inconi] of being reputed a had acquired the one for them, in must bo hoped, th Esquimaux. In the mcantimi my nephew ; we h{ with him, being as of our weapons. 1 minutely; and the; and operation of ti contrived to evade live measurement < them, and they wei was one who measii were five feet eighi more, to our usual projects. Jan. 23. We ha former was from K maux features. Tli nine days' journey ol and fifty miles. Th shown this day. T produced also great warded us with one was now also at ieng wssary for them to own. Jan. 24.— From ii TO THE ARCTIC RE(JIONS. ,^ would measure the mind first, and, lo that, adapt his attemots at beneficeDce or improvement. But it i, very unreasonable oex^S th.s m .mprovers and inventors. I Mill not, therefore! noL The errors of well-meanrng men, to .vhose plan^ I need o^raHude on this subject; but I am sure that the simple contrivance of his wooden Jeg. raued us higher in the estimation of this people than a I the wonders we had shown them, and. undoubtedlyrfar higher ban ine superior attainments of all kinds, belonging to ul which they could not appreciate. ^ » '" "»> wnicn It was not politic to exhibit all our wonders at the beffinninir of our acquamtance; and having therefore reserved soStf a further display, the apparatus for instantaneous light, wSw" now produced, excited, in the phraseology of ou'r day c^ c!S plirases a strong sensation. The interior of a watch seemed more than incomprehensible; and we seemed in great danTer emg reputed among the conjurors; our betters irplilosopl had acquired the same reputation, but too often a very Su, one lor hem, m ages not far removed, and amid moIZt 't Simaur ' "" "■™'"''' '^' mental climate of a tX' of lu the meantime three willow partridges were brought in by my nephew; we had not chosen that any of the natives should go viih him, being as yet unwilling that they should know the effec of our weapons. The game was however examined by them very minutely; and they expressed a great desire to know the naS and operation of the guns; questions which, for the present wo contrived to evade by unintelligible explanations. The comp'. 1- iv. measui-ement of their statures excited much intere afnong .hem, and they were exceedingly clamorous at finding thaf here was one who measured but four feet ten inches, since two of I em were live feci eight inches high. Their departure left us,on^ S' "'"' "'" «*^'^"P«"«»« forourown\omfort and future Jan. 23. We had another visit of men and boys. One of the former was from Neitchillee, and had Indian rather than E n i! maux features. This place, to the south-west, they estimated at nme days journey of a sledge: we supposed it might be a hu. Ired hown this day. The exhibition of snapdragon, as it is called rochiced also great surprise ; especially i„ the conjuror, who ro-' arded us with one of his conjuring songs. The use of a pistol was now also at length shown; since it was, sooner or Jerne Ijossary for them to know that our arms were superior to t'heir Jan. 24.-From minus 35^ josterday, (he (emperatiire rose to M 1«0 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 20°. Wc had settled that the armo'irer's funeral should takt; * place before the church service; and li was accordingly perforinfc;« with the usual forms and solemnity; an appropriate sermon beiri|> afterwards selected for that of the day. Fortunately, the natives offered us no interruption by their visit; but, after noon, they ar- rived, to the amount of fourteen, including five children. The man with the wooden leg had walked the whole distance, being two miles and a half, and was therefore quite master of his im- plement. Among them was a stranger from another tribe, with his hair in a different fashion ; but we could not make out the place of his residence. The tame fox unfortunately died, from having got access to a specimen o.' t?'e willow partridge, in the prepara- tion of which arsenic had been used ; thus causing ^s a double loss. Jan. 25. — Another |)arty came on board, and among them, a woman with an infant at her back. She was hideously tattooed all over the face ; and her portrait, like that of many others, was drawn. Her husband was a stranger, belonging to some southern tribe, and knew the names for copper and brass ; whereas, witli the present people, the name for iron applied to all. The presents which we made to the«c also, did not prevent the disappearanee of a pair of snuffers ; though we could not ascertain who the culprit was. Jan. 20. — Fiftec'i of the Esquimaux arrived to-day, with soirio clothing to sell ; and t! hunilog. Jan. »H.— The some power this chiding five won \m\ ngnin, ofcou wondoi'M and mal loction of portrai of extroino starv meal was produc in Iho Nnmo cond iinfortimato soliti litui boon a comp liavo boon snare tinuliirod with p* ^nisflry might not Jan. ««.~^Proc woodon-loggod m sent of an arrov Olookiu was sich WAS settled that I lemedicB. We i fhmM\ Hunio snu minus i\{\\ and sr •Ian. HI This village arrived w Olookiii, with the Ills Hiedieinos, an( till wo should ha^ iin>st of tlicm hai^ IVom whom wo pii Wo found, from departed, under (raiioe into the sh iiiconvoniont, wo m at onu limo we Wc learned tin had killed it with they promised to I iMoii of their cunni to have a wooden I It wan easily expla sore log; which of Wo had now ic liiul nassod away li liitd been greainr i 'i'Kgging on in a I was TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,„, Jan. SW.-Tho toinpcraturo i'os«, and the sun was felt to have so,n. power ih.s day. Fourteen K«q„imaux came alongs de 'I! cl»d.«K |lvo women who had not neon the ship before : and' w^e i.«d «K«m, of coui^e, to go through all the ceremonial of showing wondern and makmg presents : thus, however, increasing our co|- leotKU. of portraits A female f.x wa., taken in a trap,1n a state luriSd" it '"'''"?'"« corresponding vor'acit/wten in. u was produced. It served to replace the former. Another ... 1.0 Ha.no condition, 'was caught on the following day : and the |.n lorfmale solitary raven. appix,aching the ship,\aJ shot It Jinotnred witK poetry "or I'^S;;! HZti X^ S^ I?.? Z^\T' ''*^.« '^""«^«'^ «» ««t «o sacrilegious Jan. 30.~I»roceeding to the Ksquimaux village, we met the l777:tT ''TVr '"wards thes^i^, Tth a pi " sent 01 an arrow, and with the intention of informiuK us that w rsmiTtir •;« T'/r' ''"».^'^»' « «weiied7ci;:„d ; ZeX W« -'"VllJ come to the ship, on the next day, for .2^^^^^ Inr'^"*' ''y '^' women.and pur- iZ .W 1 ? ";■"''•• ^''° '»'«''«o'neter*this day was at iiiiniiH m, and some transits were ohtained. .Jan. .n --This month ended with a very fine day. Half the SoTiu'Xh:''''".,"? r".""«"««'' '" -^ chlh sertiie wo h Id I hit " ri T ?? '*•'"''« '« ••«'"»'° wi'h the rest nlrof m1.„r •'•^"«'"*'«'^- />« ««"»'"« out. we found that S wli LI '^T" "V7' ".'"' ^•^ "•«" ^'^'^i^^^d some others, wTlSrr' "if "'t'^ '''"''""''■•''*'"« w»''«'' they had brought £ut3 LnZ". ''° ""■'"■'"*'" ."*''"'"''^' that the women had n CO ;« U , '" «"PP««" »n that they should be refused en- . rvo Ln VJ^^^ «H these perpetual cr^ -% were really ixa on (?.: "".'' ^^^'^ oppo'ttinily of scttlin , umt only five or SIX at Olio titiio were to come in future. I.»cmi^nr'*.!'":i '-'7 •'"'^ •"""'' " '"""N torpid in its ^Jen, and ad killed I with their knives. Wo oflcrt. d to buy it of them and nvl ".'""1"'^' '" ""' who, haviug a sore on his leg, begged as e 2"^'"m'*T'^I" "7""l'"« ''•"« '" «"'" « piece of tim'ber. Ire Zr^irrP r''^' '''"^ ^''^ "•■«' ^^-^htion was, to cut off the soioiog, which ol course put nn en observed, nor any Feb. '2.— It did and there was not ciently common w more skins, which suspect that this p now something ni( show that they we we had at first sup savages have prov( for these races, fr( been the subject ol objects stolen cou though, in fact, ev to be of much scrvi purposes. A large reading- reason, o»j considi candle having gom been exhibiting its i by bis unwillingnei the village. I thei produced by the m confession immedij it back on (he lo.loi other cheek would accordingly, togetli TO TIIK ARCTIC KKfilONS IHS ( IIAPTiaj will. r.llciiiiK on tho pari <>( Hip N:,tiv.«s. -The lirHt lull „f Hi.ow ..I this YtM.-V ,„v,- DHnce— Hummary of iIh; Month of Kcbruary. . ''■"r ' •"'^'"^■"'' ^■«*' «'»<>«»ier aiiival oC Ksquimaux, on tlin Cnst .lay o» this new month, wilh wives and children; and we hoiidit from Ihem three skin dresses; but the bear continued to be pro- iiiised. llie man with the swelled face was better, and brought a how that he had proposed to give lis. One of the women had an ornament on her head, consisting of the head of an owl, with some crmRie skins. The temperature was niiniis 25 ', and the day so cloudy that none of the expected occultations in Taurus could bo observed, nor any of the moon-culminating stars. Feb. 2.— It did not become clear till the moon had passed Taurus and there was nothing more to he observed; a mortincation sufii- ciently common with astronomers. The Esquimaux brought some more skins, which we bought; but not the bear: we had reason to suspect that this promise was not about to be kept. Kut we had now something more to discuss with them: and the eveni was to show that they were not those examples of absolute honesty, which we had at lirst supposed, if much less inclined to stealing than most savages have proved. And whatever excuses navigators have made Or these races, from the strength of the temptation when iron has been the subject of theft, they do not, I lear, apply here, where the objects stolen could be of no use, if indeed I except the snuffers • though in fact, even these, iron as they might be, were not likely to be ol much service, though the hammer might be applied to some purposes. A large reading-lens had disappeared for some days ; and I had reason, on consideration, to suspect the conjuror Otookiu ; the candle having gone out, for some time, in the cabin, after I had been exhibiting its effects to him. This was conlirmed afterwards, by his unwiilingness to admit me into his house at my last visit to the village. I therefore told him that the sv elled face had been produced by the magical glass, and that it must be returned. His conlession immediately followed, together with a promise to bring It back on the (o.lowing day: without which, i assured him that his other cheek would swel! in the s.^-me v.Mxnncr. It was brought h-c-k accordingly, together with a haaimer which had disappeared; while 184 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY the snuffers were admitted to be in the possession ol one oi l\w women, together with a glass out of n&y spectacles, which one ol the children had found, on its having dropped out. The terror ol the conjuror was indeed so great, that he brought Luck a hook and a harpojn head which I had given him in exchange for a bow ; on =vhich, to preserve this probably useful impression of terror, I agreed to a re-exchange, Feb, 3.— On the preceding day we observed a tronuit of llie moon, and had many observations of stars on this one; the woathci being unusually clear. The thermometer was first us low as 38' minur., and it afterwards fell to 40*. The Esquimaux bi-ought nothing but a part of the bear's skin ; but we purchased a roindcci skin from them. The spectacle glass was returned, and the boarer rewarded with a tin canister, as this had not been a true theft. The snuffers also weie produced; and it was then explained, that ii anything should hereafter be lost, none of the natives would bo siiffered to come on board any more. Nor would wo ndmif niiy of them at this time, that we might give a tangible proof of our resolution, and of our firmness in adhering to it. Feb. 4.- The temperature sank to minus 42*, but the day was clear and calm, so that the cold was not severe on shore. Souk- natives came, and sold us some dresses, together with the ornamnnl Hiade ol (Dcth. Eight seals had been taken by them in the Inst two days. Tbey brought a small part of the bear, saying that they could get no more. A few returned on the following (lay, and, among (he rest, a woman with a nursling, whom she took out ol her bag, and exposed naked to the air, at the breast, with the ihci uiometer at minus 4G°. It rose to 32* to-day, the weather continuing ealm and lino. The whole thirty-one Esquimaux came; and as two h.i»it litem till (heytdio •Im) a knife, having t a fair way lo get flic hea( fell to mi 'laps produ<'cd eaol alive. We also hoi Feb. 2fi.~ Tile \s lliprmometer did n( TO THE ARCTIC .tEG.ONS. ,g, with MS, and thus, I doubt not, giving them a more rational idea of our supenonty. The snow did not last a sefcond day, and the weather was cloudy and n,ild. A female fox was taken in the trap and we had thus the means of procuring a breed, if wc chose W Esquimaux arrived; and it was lucky for our denunciations: tha those who had restored the stolen property had been successfu m the sea huntmg. But their families were so much in wan (L they could not spare us any of their capture. Feb. 21.— This was the finest and the warmest day that had vet occurred s.nce November. It was calm, and the thermometer cJn .nued nsmg t.ll ,t reached zero at midnight. It may surprise an inglish reader to hear of a warm day at a temperature of 32" under he freezmg pomt ; but the temperature of sensation is more re- lative than .s .magmed, and the body soon contrives to find a new and much lower scale of comfortable or endurable heat. The na- |ves arrived at length, and with a seal of middling size, for whid. they received the promised reward of a woman's knife. This is the usual kmfeof the leather-cutters, being a semicircular blade; ad -t .8 used by them lor the same purposes as a butcher's knife is' with us: the reserved duty of culling up the seals being the privilege or service, be it whichever it may, of the fair sex. They were pu under charge of the watch during divine service; as we wcro de- termined that this should never be inlerrupted while wc had the moans of performing it. We had now learned to part, without llie usual noisy and troublesome ceremonies. Feb. 22.— The temperalure, to-day, ranged between minus 1 1 " t,i '' i'" J'. '■ ''*''P«<^*»' •* was mild. Many hares were seen : but they had been so often chased, that they were now unapproach- able. Hiome more skin dresses were bought to-day. On the fol- lowing, with a cloudy sky, the thermometer rose to one degree pint and rested at minus 5". Among olhcr articles bought this day, wai he skm of a glutton ; and as it had been taken in a trap the day More, wc proceeded to construct one, in hopes of a similar prov A seal was also br.,ught in the evening, and a ptarmigan was killed." I his was the first day, for a long time, that «o had both brcakfasled mid dined by daylighl. Feb. 24.-11 was a line day, though overcast, wilh a lempera- ui.! Keneral y about minus 5". A line hare was shot, and the new 'lap linished and set. More skins were purchased ; so (hat we were ma lair way lo get an ample supply of clothing for a long lime 'hrheal lell K. minus HJ" on (he following day. The Iwo fox- '••aps prochued each a Icmnlo prisoner, one of wliicli was reserved .r . y:^ '\T' •"•"«''< «"'»•' sealskin ja.kels from ihc natives rcn. i-o.-rii,. weather was much colder, (hough (he fall of (he .hermomrler did not exrced five degrees. The natives brought .i'ti 188 SECOND VOYAGE OF WSCOVERY another skin of a gluUon, caught also but the day before, with three more sealskin jackets. A knife was the established price of all such articles. Whether there was any holiday among them, or whether it was to be taken as a tribute of gratitude, Ikmallik, the geogra- pher, had brought a party for the purpose of treating us with a dance. There was not less than twenty. The dance was more like an exhibition of bears than aught else ; though a Savoyard bear, at least, must be admitted to be the better dancer. The dance was followed by a vocal concert, the women ranging them- selves in a semicircle, shutting their eyes, and opening their mouths, while vociferating Amnn Aija with all the power of their throats and lungs. 1 fear that we were not musicians enough to analyze and estimate the peculiarities and merits of this national music. The ICsquiraaux of Greenland, whom we had heard, had very different conceptions of this art. It remains to be tried by some one else, whether these people also, here and elsewhere along this coast, have the faculty of music, waiting only to be brought forward by education, by hearing what they had never yet heard. Wc should be as unjust in ^wssing on them an unlimited condemnation, as the early travellers in Southern Africa had proved themselves in the case of the Hottentots ; who, under Moravian instruction, have surprised their teachers, and even produced, as their reports sav, a rival of Catalaai. I must add, that Ikmallik, being the Cory phanis I presume, continued dancing in the centre of the semicircle, Feb. 27. — This day was very fine, but not so warm. The natives brought some trifles for sale, and the officers saw a glutton and a hare during their excursion. On the Sunday it became once more cold, the thermometer falling to 31°. A fresh breeze made it severely felt during some attempts at observation in the evening. An entire seal, well adapted for a specimen, was brought by one ol the natives, who conlirmcd also some of the geographical reports of the foiiucr man. They departed ao early as not to interfere with our clrurch service. The ending of this month leaves little to be said in the way ol summary. It was a very cold one; and I now bciiove that tlio thermometer must have reached to minus 50". The average of the (ii-st fourteen days was certainly not less than 40", and might have been more; but, in the latter part of the month, the mean did not exceed 28" ; the whole corresponding, once more, to those for- merly noted as found in former voyages. The oscillations of the barometer were remarkable, as has been noted in the daily journal, but the mean was 30" 1 1 . A sununary of the success of the natives in hunting during (his niODlh, uivca two white; licar»i, (hroe ulultuns^ a dozea u! i'oxos. and fifty seals : and as wc had also, ourselves, killed or taken live foxfc, TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,g^, Will, some hares ptarmigans, and willow partridKcs this i. , country not so dest.tutc of game, even at this'lime of t he tar as has been generally supposed; while it is thus proved that U.ev do not migrate to the south in winter, ^ In our internal comforts and the satisfaction of the men there was no alteration: a I bad gone on well. Some valuabirobserva l.ons had been added to our astronomical collection, and ,na„v experiments on sound made. Of our communicatiois wilMhJ natives, have nothing more to remark ; except that we hid come 10 a perfec understanding respecting the prL of elh aHicle of ope, were at an end : but it was certain that they considered these ^acts no vast crime, since the detection gener:fly7odt:d ( HAPTKR XIX. ll.<- Month of March ' """"'* of building Snow Iluts-sinnmary ..( March. I .— [i was an extremely cold mornintr hut m t l.o fn ,!• ■nore than to the thermometer. tL of the na^t a ivi g I ti'^ panied tl.ctn in a walk, where they pointed out a beltc, ptccr. J rap to ca.oh the glutton ; it being in a pass which tho^ u e in Znl he norihwj,rd One of them was persuaded to sell one o?" ct dogs : which was warranted for keeping at bay aZr or a misk ox or hnd.ng seal holes, and for dlawing a iledgo W ,h Jl^'f -•T:^"*'"'*^'' J"K ^«s bought this day, to complete our can, : I could not venture to buy more at present, lest we shmZ ; be able to leed tlicm They brought us an account of^he do ' ho old man whom wc had romarke.i at our li.st meeting We t"trh.'''""rr'''''"yr "•''• •^" inquiry when « The ^l! »en pointed ouf, as we ascertained; while tlicic was one shut im riic solution of whatever mystery t| • ' ■ ' ^ «as necessarily deferred. — o lit Ko :.. ii.:.. . ,. -rv III m:3 iiiaucr, 180 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVEUY March 3. — The natives brought us a fine reindeer skin, and promised another seal. Hazy weather continuing, prevented ail observations. The following day was colder, because there was more wind; but including both, the temperature range between minus 24" and 38". A bear-skin was brought; and we understood that two parties were about to be detached, one to the northward, and the other eastward on the ice, fop ■ the purpose of catching seals, but that they would soon return to watch for the animals which were then expected to be migrating from the southwai*d. March 5. — There was little change in the weather. Two women came to inform us that the rest had all gone to build sor.ie huts further to the eastward, on the ice, near the island that was in sight, and that they were to join them in the evening. The dis- tance, therefore, could not be great. The dead man was said to be not yet buried : and when some of our ofiicers afterwards visited the village, they found nothing altered, except that some of the entrances were demolished, and the ice windows removed. IMarch 6. — The sun had power enough, while :t lasted, to raise the temperature from 38" to 18" minus, but it then fell to 24". The huts were revisited by the same party, who found the corpse of Illicto, in one of them, in the posture in which he seemed to have died. An incision in the abdomen had been evidently made after death ; and as they had not removed him, we supposed that they considered his present place a sufficient tomb ; at this season of the year, perhaps the best, or only one. A hole was cut in the ice, and a tide pole inserted ; by which we found a rise of four feet and a half. An unlucky cloud robbed us of a very promising obser- vation. March 7. — No Esquimaux interfered with the present Sunday. The weather was fine, and the temperature not very different. We could now observe the tides, which were very irregular; but the extreme rise was nearly six feet. On the Monday, it was but one foot eight inches in the morning, but was five feet three in the even- ing. Two old females came, and informed us that five seals had been taken : and we killed a fox. March 9.— It was fine and calm weather, with a full moon. The irregularity in the ebbs and Hows, and in the heights of the tides, was extreme. Two of our officers walked to the new town on ihe ice, which proved to be abcit seven miles olT. They found live families, that had been very successful, having taken a great many seals. The rest had gone about fifteen miles to the northward. ( -ommaudcr Hoss went in the sledge, about the same distance, lo the south-weslwai'd ; and though he could see land all round, lie could not determine whether or not it was continuous : aUh()n!!li the coast seemed entirely sKirled with islands. Some natives came in n slodgo, salmon. March JO.-— Tl of the day ; and I tiie natives arrive( ing 118 a good do shoes and other a dinner. Two of I consented to reina morning. They \ with provisions. dinner ; but when hed for each, one suspicion or cerem to surprise thoni e IMarch 1 1 .—Tli being colder than very One. Wo fo morning, both ou (heir suspioionn w or six pounds of «ci we had judged as ii (astes, by our own sary, if wo wore to Talleyrand would * pared a dinner for politics or diploini bref.kfast, they com the neatnoHu of Ihe since, excluding poi sufficiently transpni At ten, (>omnian< team of six good do| A parly of our own Irigonometrical ope away (ho other mar up a loaded gun, v mischief, but givinfj loiich a gun again l\ March 1 2.— The 1 flionghlholaKercoi "finces; nod'vento t •nvslery (here might solution. The («m; •"kIi(, and did not e; TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,g, IZon. " "'"''**"' ""'' '•"""«'•' "^ ''""' ^^'•y ^^•'^P'^ble smoked March :0.~-The temperature rose to minus 12' in the course of the day ; and the tides were as irregular as usual. Two se oi" .he natives arnvod from their different new establishment! br n« -ng us a good dog and two seals, which we bought wi'thZl «hoes and other articles, treating them, in addition, wSa Tod dinner Two of them built us a snow hit for our instrument, 2i consented to remain all night, if wewould eturn w H^eL ^the .norn»,g. They had killed thirteen seals, and wire a" p^ "« ml w.th provisions. A good supper for them followed 22 mner ; bu when it was time for rest, although theTe was a food Led lor each, one walked while the other slept Whetir thisTas suspicion or ceremony, we could not discover. Our scool seemed to surprise horn even as much as the kaleidoscope. " being 'i!o!deri.Tt hiTr'"'/'' ''"'^i'^'^"' '4" «o 32» minus, y llne^ \^^^^^ some days; but the weather wa ^ely line. Wo lound that when it had become very late in ibp morning, both our visitors had consented to fS alleeV perh ds iheir suspicions wore quieted. Their breakfast, consistinrof hJp TeTaSludtf;'"' '"'■' T'"^^ ' '^'^'''y satisfadory S t em' I bfor l;"?" '""^'y in measuring their appetites as th" lasies, by oui own; but a special larder was admitted to be n^ces- SliZT'V!'^'''"^'"'"'' ?«••"««• The nine cooks oJSe Tal eyrand would scarcely, with all their art and means, ha4 pe- so''' dioi "'' "'"' ^''i"""""'' ''P'"^'' «f influencing t'^^^er ho nt .;il7l ? '7' "'" 'r^ *^"' f«'' «"'• observatory : while mo ntatnoss ol the workmanship was the least part of the meri* s.nee. excluding perfectly the annoyance of wind or old aii- iT was sulliiently transparent to allow us to read off the instrument 'earn Ifs'ix ST''"'' """ ^^^"^ "^'^^ '" «'»• ^^^'«^^ ^rawn by a Arinf? '"*^''' •" company with Ikmallik, the geographer. rriZoml^ 'r" '""" ''''' ^*'"'«"' '« «••««' «>ore cairns foJou wav Z "•""•«'i"r- ^''"'' «'■ '^' "«^'v«« ^'-''ived to fetch way the other man, Nuhingiak, who, on coming upon deck took Ld. n? I » '""' ^'r'' ^*'"' ^^'^ '" '"■'« hands; luckily S g no 'O'icli a gun again lor some time. ' ' '"'Kh the l«((or continued; since, thus far, they had led to no info- ZT. .?''''''' ••««l'««'inK"'i««»»'Jccl, we had to wait for the ""IllllOn. IhO tflHinnrnliitii. c...U..:J-J „_ I ..- .j-- . iiiirl.i „.. 1 I 1 V "' rT,if}-,„efl aa unv as minus iKT', lU Uie exceed IK" in (ho day. In the morning, two of 193 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY the dogs, which escaped from the sledge, returned to the ship, and a third was brought back by a native, its former master, lo whose new hut it had found its way. He well deserved the reward he re- ceived for his honesty; and we also bought from him, notwithstand- ing our former resolutions, another, which was distinguished as a bear hunter. In no long fime. Commander Ross returned from his expedition, accompanied by some natives bringing a seal. He had found their huts on the ice, about twelve miles to the north- eastward, amounting to ten, and bad been kindly treated ; his supper being from a young seal, of which he made a favourable report. Their success had been considerable. March 1 3. — The cold increased, with a breeze, but did not pre- vent the natives from bringinga young seal which they had promised, and part of a musk ox. Resides the price of their art^icles, they were treated with a dinner, and departed well pleased. The week was concluded with the usual work and proceedings of Saturday and Saturday night. March 14. — The cold went on increasing, and the thermomelei fell to minus 40*. The mercury can freeze in the bulb of this in- strument without breaking it. Whatever expansion it may under- go on crystallization, if indeed that which has been supposed be true, the increase of bulk is not adequate to this effect. It is more likely that if it does not contract, like silver and bismuth, and many other metals, it does not at least vary its dimensions considerably. I had fully ascertained that it must have often thus frozen, without having destroyed the bulb, by having broken one of the instruments, at a temperature which had frequently occurred without injury, and having found it in a solid state. Some natives came to-day from the northern party ; bringing two seals, with a dog in place ol one that we had returned. A dinner, which, after such journeys, had become a sort of indispensable civility, sent thcui home very happy. A disagreeable accident happened on board, to one of the child- ren of this party. Being in the habit of licking their dishes and other utensils, as well as each other's faces, the creature applied liis tongue lo the iron hoop on a cask, and was not released witiioiii leaving the skin behind. We found the meat of the musk ox to be very good beef, and without the musky flavour, which may possibly occur only at a particular season. With seven dogs accustomed lo this chase, we had thus a prospect of being able hereafter to supply our crew willi a proportion of fresh provisions. March 15. — Tlie weather became so much milder, that the tiier mometer rose to minus 15°. A large party of natives came on board, and nine of them remained to dinner. A better dog wa^ brought, in iieuofonc (hat had been returned ; and we found that liun TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,„3 had takeu five seak The temperature fell again to minus HH," on .he following day, and we received another visit from a parly wj-c brought us a .mall .eal, a siedj-e made of the hones and skin of (h. musk ox, and some bo<,ls and gloves. We hoard also that there Te'south^'' ''''^"''""" ^'^"^ ^"'^ '''' i^"" "«y ^-- - '" March 17.-The men under Commander Ross had heen em- ployed for some t.me ,n measuring a base for the trigonometrical operations, and tins work was still going on, in spite of the cold which to-day was mmus aO". Some of the natives arrived, with he boy Kawalua, an orphan, and the nephew of the geographer kma l.k. It was he that I had marked oLt as the most fitting ,o iVtr""" f T 'r^ instructed; and he therefore remained.%n .he return of the others, commencing his attendance at the scl oo on the same evening. '"-■•"ui ^Jr''^ \^'~[^ ^^'"l^ * ^'"^ *^^y' Commander Ross took a iournev .a the sledge about thirty miles to the southward, returning in the evening; and having taken the Esquimaux boy with him, he received to ^eitch.llee and ,t was not, therefore, so far off as we had ima- wh^flp I !.^' information respecting places agreed so well with what we had heard belore, as to assure us of his accuracy. He also described a place where they were obliged to cross, in their canoes, a slreani of salt water that was always flowing to the east- ward, and which could never be passed in any other manner. As oonTrlr? ""i" '''•" ''«y«:J«"'-"«y' by his account, we hoped soon to be abte o explore ,l, and ascertain the nature of this strait and current. He saw in this excursion, the tracks of a glutton and of a reindeer but no living animal. In the course of the day, « nr Znd tD'''r "r'^"' '''^ Tf ''^ >"""« one. In my ow„^;alk, Hound the tracks of hares and foxes in much greater number thaii lonnerly; and two ravens from the northward Hew over the ship. llowed the boy to go back with them, under a promise of his re^ u7blts" ^'' V'"7'"?,- They brought us then L.e more glomes and boots with a fine dog; as we were now making up a second manner, at least as we" as their original masters. Mr. Thorn and the surgeon set out to walk to a rock which was determined by the and did not arrive till very late, nearly exhausted, after having given us some alarm. Nothing of moment was seen from the noiiu ' Zllr ''',f .-^^•- -- '-y- • «i'<>^ two ptarmigtr"" -Udrcn 41. — I Ills was ;i diivi>rinn^l «>'!'«iinn and a worn OH board. The mean was about March 30.— Iiigheit degree i Itrought some sk felt warm; the ti iulliog below 4° i «ompri8ing fiftee iialfa mile to the drawn, each, bj We went after tl and were aiirpris liii roof within fo than a house in h The whole pro Joined, by the roc it Hufflciently dei wooden shovel, Jc (liree feet thick. circle, which is ten blocks are cut ou OHierpart; then t «fled upwards unt niinate in a perfect before it is quite d «»6 meantime the »now, and the bo •apf the snow t window, complete added, as it is aft «'nalIor huts for st wore auing their pi whose hand had L »"»'Kflon; and we •rouble of thawing The BumtQary of «ent much variety f . tlie highest plu ««>«reo greater than Pa«^d. Theicewai «' Jho ship, and the , Our trade with tl ">«; and skins ; and *fip uNeieis, we had TO THE AUCTIr REGIONS. mnn and a womau camo ■ hut i. • • - board. ThetieZi "^T^^^^ "K'aM was about zero. ^'"* '^ «* "ood, and the l.i«he7deg?e7i?'td'l!uSr{!'' ''°'* *^ '«° ?'"«• being i|,e l-mhi «ome ski„s.''CS Jl7"y '"•^"*''^- A« Esquimaux lallmg below 4- plu,. f^ (ho evening /^ f ^^^ ^^'"''' ^"^^ "'^'^ fomprising fifteen person. paZdrif; l°r^'»''ies of the natives, 'alf« mile to the Bouthwl TThel LIT '"T' "^^ ''"'««bont ilr;awn, each, by two or three d2-\ *'""' ^^"^ '''''° "^'^^^S^^' We went after tLm to mo h« n ^'' ''"/ P-'oceeded very slowly and were .urprisod^uCtxSr t'"'''^'^^ -ol C^ I'iroo wiu,i„forty.f,veinlnmJrA't;„? '""° ^^'^'^S closed iu llian a house is he4 built "' '* '*'*''<^«'y P'^ched sooner i» -umdently deep and Jid;2'"''^^''' v-hether tie s^ow wooden shovel. loivinAenll - '^ T' *^« '"'^^^^^^ spot by a «t'7 feet thick. CoZeneT' henl'n T'' '' ^°°" "«^ '-« ^b«^ «'rcle, which is ten feet or Sin 1 1/^ S^'" °^ '*>« '"^^"ded blocks are cut out, abouUwo fc« i '*'"' '^'"^^''^"^ w^'Jge-shape.I «»Jirpart5 (hen trmS hi „ *"'*'. "'''' ^ ^^'^^ thick at the «««d upwards until rhroo'uL?rZ^^:'^.^''°'^^' *»>«yP-- nnnate n a perfect dome. T^o doo? b^fi^ "f''"'"? '""^"^'^i *«•- bofure .t is quite dosed, serves to sunn ^..'"' ^"' ^'•^'" *»>« '«side, tbe meantime the worain arTelW^*''" "PP^'" materials. I„ fnow, and the boys in oo„.tru^tf^^l*^ '" '/"*"» ^«>in<« with laying the snow sofa w7 .k," ' Ind^'li''* ^'^ '^' ^°fi^- The wmdow, complete the work thi Z '*' T^'"''*»" «'" ^be ice added, as it is after the hou«e is «« ^/"'y ''"'"^'"'"g to be smaller huts for stores. £0?,^ pm "'«^"'"'' ^^''^ some «f e aping their parents in a tov J\ .''"''^''^"' '° *be meantime whose r.and had been b tten bvl^ Ti'''''"'\of their own. o"e i'Tgepn, and we supplied them wSh '"'V'^'" ^" ''"^-'d *« the fouble of thawing for LmsK ^'''•'' ^° ^^^« ^''e'" the f. the highest pi«2S';rranbeT"'""o'^«'^ ''-" ^-^ degree greater than that o tLTl„ "« '"'""^ 20", and thus one Pa|;j.d. The ice was dissot ng/Tourh'^rT' ^^ ''""'^'-'y -"- «f '«^ »h,p, and the rooks were birA "''"'^l ^° '''« «o»A side . Our trade with the nativlh^ ! /'^^'^ ^y '^^ *"«• '»««Dd skin,, «nd hav**i:?..H.P'?''"«««J.« good stock of d«ti. *"" "««!«-. we had purcha^d 7glU Col^.r 1'°?^' "'"'"^ «•»"« new ones, thushavmgagood li" tm sEcrmn voyage of discovery learn often. Tlio information arquirpd respecting Neitchillee led us to think that a passage westward imi^t exist there ; the more detailed account of the natives being, that (here is really a strait lo Uii! northward of it, nontJinunicating with a sea to the westwaid, and presenting a strong easterly current. In this channel also they riiefilioned some islands, called !»•» them Shag-a-voke, signifying strong Mreani ; further saying, that the waves in this place often broke very high. Besides all this, they described another channel to the northward, by which the ship could go belter into an opeh sea where no land was to be seen. Though now on terms of entire confidence, the intended pupil had not been persuaded to remain, nor could we obtain any substitute. He had not returned after his first departure on what we had believed a mere holiday or leave of absence. The lane of gravel on the ice, intended, through the action of the sun on it, to thaw a channel for us before it would naturally break up, had been Hnished; and the dogs and sledges were in good training and order. All our internal arrangements continued satisfactory, and all were in perfect health. Game had been very scarce ; the four foxes constituted our chief captures. The highest tide had been six feet ; the mean of the barometer 80 inches. The triangulation had proceeded : but the observations in this month, respeoiing occultations by the moon, were not more suc- cessful thd^t^wncrly. It was alwayr^ cloudy at those times. Some transit* ^qb^Jonar distances werp ,1 value. It is lastly worthy of remark, be It explained as it may, if indeed it be a steady fact, which we do not yet know, that all the coldest days occurred near the time of the full moon, and a little after, and that the temperature v/as highest immediately after the change. CHAPTER XX. Proceedings to the Tenth of April, 1830— .Journey and Narrative at CoDimiiailc Ross. Ai'RiL 1 . — There was» show, with a much lower temperature aL ' a cold breeze. THe' natives came to us from all their quar- torb, -^r-fl Awack, the future guide to Neitchillee, was especially weitMSir. . The i^«:arest p.iMv had been unsuccessful in seal hun- tlntj. '?. :« R'i^-i day was like the summer to the feelings, and the (liermometer r< cessfut, and b( Seeing the sext sirous to know was suilicient U everywhere flo\ April 3.— A there was still a nal heat on out condensers, thi.'.> colder than yea snow wall roun (0 protect It .Oc! April 4.— Su quailcTS; but w ties. Among the came with tluiir information was ney had been co them were read April 5.— Th( which, being froi Commander Hos maux, departed i but the thermonr their departure snow began to ft of wind, which \ lation was, that enced and activ therefore be houi brought us a fin< assistance to Tiaj April 6.— It c the noithwa.-d t( 21° at noon : wh bluT Sifi'ht was ho the aiiip's place U little. April?.— This ing snow; but, i same signals we would have re .cl beg food : and as them with some su yi '-.i'r-i TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,^7 (hermomeJer rose (o plus 2'4 . The Esquimaux were still unsuc- cessful, and began to fear they should be short of provisions becmg the sextant in use for an observation, ihcy were vu, v de' sirous to know if it related to seals, and if we saw any 'The sun was sufficient to dry the washed clothes, and the melted snow was everywhere flowing in water down the rocks. April 3.-A seal was brought, and exchanged for a file; but there was still a failure of this hunt. In proof of the effect of exter- nal heat on our anangements within, the quantity of ice in the condensers, th.,. w..k, ^.as but two bushels. It was a few degrees colder thn.) ycdterdaj ; but it now became necessary to build a snow wall rounf^ the pillar to which the thermometer was attached to protect It .♦Vcu the reflected heat of the surrounding snow. Apr.l 4.— i5unday did not prevent the natives coming from all quadus; but we did not allow them to impede us in our usual du- ties. Among then,, Awack and Ooblooria, the two promised guides, came with tlieir sledges, dogs, and provisions; and all the former information was confirmed. Our own preparation for the lour- ney had been eompJeted and the officers that were to accompany them were ready. 1 he thermometer fell to minus 8" at night April o.-The weather was cloudy, with a moderate breeze, which, being f^i-om (he north-eastward, was favourable for tiavelling Commander Ross, with the chief mate, Blanky, and the twoEsqul- inaux, departed a: ten on two sledges, with ten days' provisions : but the thermometer falling to minus 4°, we were concerned that their departure had not been delayed. Still more unfortunatelv, snow began to fall at one o'clock, and by evening, there was a gaie of wind, which we feared would arrest them entirely. Our conso- lation was, that our two officers had with them the most experi- enced and active of the Esquimaux guides, and that they would therefore behoused in good time. The natives from the eastward brought us a fine seal, and we were thus enabled to afford some assistance to Tiagashu's family, which seemed to be in want April 6.-It continued to blow fresh, with snow, shifting from the northward to the eastward ; yet the thermometer became plus t! ^' uT ' ■ '" ® evening, it went round to the south. A blu' !irM was lioisted, and a signal rocket thrown up, to indicate lhe^.u.p s place to the travellers. At night, the wind moderated a April 7.— This morning was again stormy, with drrft and fall- ing snow ; but, towards evening, it became calm and clear. The same signals were then repeated, though we hoped the party wou d have re .ched Neilchillee. Some of our neighbours came to them with some seal's flesh.' The next day was still snowy, but calm I OS SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY at first, lollowed by variable winds in the course of the afternoon. Nine Esquimaux came for meat, of which we fortunately bad some Htill reinammg; and they were so hungry thai they devoured the KaVa nesh raw; not, however, forgetting to lake some home to their lamihes. The men were now making various prenarationu ou board tor the summer : the signals were repeated at night. April 9.- The snow was still worse, and the drift obscured every thing; the wind finally settling in a heavy galo from the south-westward. The rocket was repeated at night, and at the hour agreed on, namely ten o'clock'; attention to the ship 's place being tlrst secured by a blue light : since, by this method, tho lon- gitude of the expedition could be ascertained through the chrono- meter. The Esquimaux came, but brought nothing. One of our loxes escaped, and probably fell into their hands. The thermo- meter sank to minus 1 3". April 10.— The gale decreased, and it became moderate by nine At five m the evening our party returned, after a very laborious journey, and much suffering from the cold, but without any oe- rious accident. They had seen the sea to the westward, and were confident that we were now on the coast of America. The channel of which we had heard as leading to the sea, was still, however uncertain; there being two inlets a little to the northward of our harbour, with apparently equal claims as yet, while it might also exist m what had been termed Cresswell bay, in latitude 72" «0. But the narrative of Commander Uoss must be given In \m own words. CHAPTEK XXI. Narrative of Commander Rohh. Aphh. fr.— The morning was far from proving favourable for our journey, as it snowed hard, and there was a fresh northerly wind : my guides, indeed, disliked the look of the weather so much that they were very desirous of deferring the expedition to onother day. I still hoped, however, that it would imprtjve; and as I wad anxious to reach the spot which we had been looking to with so nHich desire and interest, we at length prevailed on them, and set oil at six in the morning. Our nartv nnnainittA nf Anmot nn.i rk..Li :_ ; j.. . ■ With IWr. Blanky, the chief mate, and myself, (hir own bnggiigc TO THE AHCTIC HEUIONS. jg^ was lashed on two sledges, drawn by dogs; and being inucli hea- vier than that of our companions, we were ranch troubled to keen up With them, especially as ( houndly; and might not have awoke very soon, had it not been lor n mutiny and rebellion which br(»ke out among the dogs. Tlicy had rid themselves of their traces and got loose; while, never being over fed, and at that linie, doubtless, tolerably hungry, they li.td Httacked the sledge of Awack for the purpose of devouring the frozen tish of which it was eonslructed, unless, indeed, (hey preferred the hides of (he musk ox by which these were bound together. The owner soon ran to the rescue; and as the damage was only com- menced, the repairs were neither very diflicult nor tedious. We had, indeed, but too much time on our hands for this work ; as the inclemency of the weather rendered it impossible to proceed. This leisure enabled us to have a good deal of conversation wilh our new friends who being now at their tiuse, and free from the apprehensions which they had at first entertained, began (o improve very much in our estimation : displaying, in parlicidar, far more acutcnesH and intelligence (ban wo could have expected to find under countenances so heavy, and physiognomies so dull. VMiai was oi most unportunce, however, to us, was the inlormalion wliiil' TO THE ARCTIC RECJONS. Wl tlioy aHoidfd retipecting the nature of the coast, and the ocean Uf ihe westward ; the latter of which they represented to be of great extent. For the first time, also, thfey now spoke of an island, whicli they called Oo-geoo-lik and where, in the summer, as they informed us, we should see great numbers of Esquimaux ; naming particularly, among those, a man who was described as lame, and a woman called Kablalla, who was spoken of as a personage of great importance among them: and giving me, in addition, the name of her husband and children, together with those of many more of her kindred. They described the place termed Oo-geoo-lik as very distant; saying also that it required many days' journey across the salt water, to reach it. This confirmed their previous account of the extent of the sea to the westward; but I could not at this time contrive to make ihem understand my wishes to go there. I was therefore obli^,- to content myself with listening to the anecdotes which they related about their people, and to answer, as well as I could, the several questions which ihey asked me about the Esquimaux whom 1 had seen at Igloolik, in whose concerns they seemed to take a very lively interest. Their principal questions, however, related to the manner of liunfing among (hose people, to their amusements, and to their singing; and they were also curious to know whether 1 had seen the "angekoks," and witnessed (heir tricks. With all this 1 had formerly been familiar; having been on many excursions with those people, after the seal and (he walrus, and having seen also enough of the operations of (he conjurors. I was to say also whether I had heard "Torn-gah," the spirit, and to repeat what he had said ; all of which questions f answered as well as i could, so that there was amusement at least, if not employment, for (his day of deten- tion. I was also obliged to repeat frequently (he names of the "angekoks," with some of their wives and children, as it was their desire to remember those, for which (hey laboured by frequent re- pedtion. They seemed gready amused to hear tha( so many of (hem had two wives; adding also, that (hey knew a man to (he westward who was thus doubly provided, having brought them Irom llepulse bay. From this I should have concluded that the practice of bigamy was very rare among the present tribe; but we afterwards found abundant reason to recal (his conclusion. We wer«? much more in(erested, however, in hearing them relate the circumstances which had brought (hem (o this part of the coast, and (o our inmiedia(ert(Mtfliboiirbo(»d. Two of their people hud been lishing do (he northward, at a place called <)w-wee(-(ec-week, and its ' M9 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY there gaw the ship besel by the ice and carried past to the south- ward ; this being, as well as 1 could conjecture, on the second or third of September. Being much alarmed in consequence, they immediately set off to join the main body of their tribe at Nei-(yel-le, where they remained till the arrival of a woman called Ka-ke-kag-iu! This person had a sister who was one among the party that had been with us at Wi-ter island, in the former voyage to this part of the world; and from her, they received so enticing an account of the reception which the latter had met with from us. on that oc- casion, that they came to the resolution of going to seek us, wher- ever the Victory might chance to have been brought up. This they accordingly did; and our companions now described to us their sensations at the first sight of our footmarks in the snow, their astonishment at the size of the prints, and the consultation which was held, to determine whether they should proceed or not. The eloquence of Ka-ke-kag-iu, however, overcame all their fears; and they now repeated to us the delight which they had felt vhen, after drawing up in a line to receive us, they had seen us throw away onr arms. During all this time their oratory did not interrupt their eating; for this is an occupation never neglected, as long as there is any thing to eat ; nor could all our experience among this gluttonous race diminish the perpetually recurring surprise that ve felt at the persistence of their appetites, the capacity of their stomachs, and the energy of their digestive powers. To say that they ate thus from hunger, or even from appetite, cannot be true : no human being, governed by the instinct of appetite alone, could feel such wants, in whatever way nature contrives to dispose of the enormous superfluity. No animal, however carnivorous and voracious, acts thus : the very glutton itself, in spite of its reputation, or of the truth of its name, if truth it be, fills itself and is satisfied. Mm alone eats from pure wantonness; ihat he may gratify his taste, not fcalisfy his hunger; if, indeed, this i. not also the frequent effect of the principle of avarice or appropriation. This it is, to be a rational being ; but, as in many other cases, and worse ones, it is to use that reason, not to control the evil passions, but to aid them; to make man, whenever he chooses so to be, the most evil animal in creation. The provisions in question were, however, consumed sooner than they would have desired; for thesr stock was small, in consequence of the division which they too made of them among their friends, before we came away from the ship. It was therefore fortunate, yet for other and better reasons, that the weithor soon began to Clear, »uii tnu5 gave our giiiUus a apveUy prospect of replacing tlieir TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 2„3 tended survey. ^ ' °'' ^•'' *^* ^°8'«» ''«q"ir«d for my in- The latitude of our present position was 6fl» 44' 9n" « j u longitude 0° 44' 6" west of th^ =klL rrT . ^ ^" ' ""*' '^'« soulh shore of an inlet aboiUt!.^?" ?"/'"' ^^ ''"'" °" '''•^ m jreneral I fn .„5 a ^ °^ ^"'* situation and of the coast Ipryedi^ otit^^^^^^^^^^^ ^r^^ -'J Ooblooria busJfy displeased ioSZuZfj"' ""'^ ^'* ^•^"""y «"''P''i««d and that we had le^to obtai/arri ^''T"? '" '""'"'*" ^° '*•« P'««« oially of provis ons, s n e thev tn^'P'? "^ ''''^ '^'""^ """^ «' ?«' maged their sledge and broken ^St''" ''^c^'V ^'''°»' ^a- .epairin, it : whilf;itrout the^,^^^^^^ iTt f '^' P"''Pr "^ curing provisions ' ^*'''y ''"'^ °" ""^^n^ of pro- was not Ury eas^t^ ptdut «-" ^^r""«"''' ""^ «»• in truth, it raents as these. ^AqSesfion of 2"'^ reasons against such argu- liaveweighed withtheTwLnn?* •'7''" H«<'«'-aphy would not olseul and a drink of oH- Id hJ '"'f/rP'"''*'" with a dinner ofthiskind, wS mL ' n K '°"''^ '/"P"*^' *''«*°"'* P"-^"'*" .othem, and Srtrha ' ^t''T'"''''^""'''"^ purposeless .0 persons of ve^y dlKenUnrrL;?^ '"""" ''^'''^ ''!.' ™P«'"'«"«« when put into the ba anr „l» 71 "^"i'. T''*' *" '"""«'"'« ^hem, «f their own ? ' *«^^'°'^ ^'•^ "''S^'t^^t wishes or caprices Jon Thile7lr'£l' '^7'^^ '"'««8«'' '»'«'» «P«rt in conver- Wl 1 'Issi^:'^^^^^^^^^ "T "i:/'^« best'piecesof sealV 'hen informed thmnlrfT n "™ "P '? " P'*«« «*" """vass. I 'hem,tha ley wouTd 1,0. .f ^''"'"'^. "^ ^^''^^^'-'^ ^'^^out moreover plStrofllM. '" P'"'*""''"^ ''^^'"•''' «"'* <»««♦» h-d n ,"»«" pieaiy oi meat m mv DusaegsiQn a- «»- u m SliCOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY After crossing a neck of land, about three miles broad, and oc- cupied by two small lakes, which, as we were informed, were well stocked with fish, we again descended upon the salt-water iee, which the guides described as belonging to the head of a maritime inlet lo which they gave the nam^ of Tar-rio-nit-yoke. The meaning ol this phrase, however, is, " not salt water :" so that it is probably a place into which there runs a river, or rivers, so considerable as lo justify this nama Thus it is that its exit, ur mouth, is also termed by them Shag-a-voke, which means " it runs fast ;" there being probably some great accumulation from the interior fresh waters and snow during the thaw ; so as to cause a rush through a narrow opening, at one part of the year, sufficient to have given rise to thisi descriptive appellation. We halted on a small islet in the north-west corner of this bay, where we found Tul-lo-ack's canoe covered with stones, having been buried in this manner to preserve the timbers from rotting; while the skin covering had also been taken off, for the same reason. The wood itself, they had procured, as they informed us, very fai to the westward, in the neighbourhood of Oo-geoo-lik. From this place we now continued our course directly inland; ascending the bed of a river, and passing several narrow lakes; travelling through deep snow for the space of four or five miles. Our progress was necessarily, therefore, very slow, until we reached the banks of the furthest one, to which they gave the name of Ty- shag-ge-wuck, and which they describedasaboundingin three kinds of trout. 1 here shot two grouse which had allowed me to approach them sufficiently near to render my aim certain : lo the equal sur- prise and delight of our guides, who had never before witnessed the effect of fire-arms. April 7. — The wind now increased, and blew over the suow so keenly, carrying with it a perfect (orrent of drill snow, that we were no longer able lo face it; so that we were at last, at seven in tlie evening, obliged to betake ourselves lo the shelter of a snow hul, which our guides built at the west end of the lake where we were now engaged in r cold and laborious journey. Our friends had noticed and recollected Ihe inconvenience llial we had experienced from the smallness of the hut which they had constructed on the preceding occasion, and the present one was therfiore made considerably larger. The Esquimaux, as every one knows, are very short, though thickly made; and thence, cal- culating for themselves, and forgetting uur much greater staturr and longer limbs, that which they had made before was so confined, that we could not stretch ourselves out, wi '.out opening the doorway A0M niiHinir jkiii* looi ikii/i loiru Koir/kiul il - ««rli id^li in uiii^li a (o{X! — y-— '"jj ■—-•- -- — -^ «».... ...^.. .,,.,.,;,.. ,. . rrittr**; ••• —••-•-• peraturc at that of this country, was by no means agreeable. We wore now very th which had diHcov( liteness, which ha April 8.— In th guides Ihcrefore f might travel the i tyel-le, and aflerw have selected n m much interest; bn characters of (hcs( In any event, I shf way to It ; so as to lure day, under in We accordingly two small narrow by which thoy we descent at the pi "journey's end." at first, doubt whe Awack having cas hole, and thus nllo' of some hummock; question at res! ; n essential fact rrsp had thus made. Keeping on our passed an island wl the particular cod, during the «ummet informed us, in gre south, and, after thi lake where I procti ing a low shore of tyel-le at one o'elot The east shore o hills, and the guid winter hnU which I left his canon hero search of it, while reaching the hanks form some estimate so heavy hh entirel than a mile in any Wfl found the ca in the river; and, a tpni TO THE ARCTIC Rl-GlONS. gflV, were now very thankful, even for the small portion of observation which hnd diHcovered this fact, and for the goodnature, or po- liteness, which had laboured to find the remedy. April 8.- In the morning it was foggy, .uh much snow. Oui guides thoroforr proposed to leave the baggage behind, that we might travel the more quickly, and thus be enabled to reach Nei- tyel-le, mid aherwards return to sleep at the hut. I could not have selected a more unfavourable day for a visit to a place of so much interest ; but as I well knew the 'capricious and chauReab'e characters oi these people, I was unwilling to make any objections In any event, I should thus have seen the place and ascertained the way to It; so as to enable me to reach and examine it at some fu- ture day, under more favourable circumstances We accordingly set off at nine in the morning"; and after passinir two small narrow lakes, called Kung-uck from the hilly country by which they were bounded, we arrived bv a short and steep descent at the place named Pad-le-ak ; a' word which means "jo«rnoy«ei,d.'' The total absence of any tide-mark made me, at first, doubt whether we had really reached the sea; but the man Awack haying cast off his dogs, one of them soon found a seal hole, and thus allowed me to taste the salt water. The occurrence of some humtnocky sea ice, shortly after, would alone have set this question at rest; as it completed my satisfaction by ensurin- this essential (act respecting our geography and the journey which we had thus made. Keeping on our course to the south-west until eleven o'clock we passed an island which the guides called 0-wuk-she-o-wik because the particular cod, termed by them 0-wuk is caught near this place during the mimmer and the autumn; frequenting its shores, as they miormed U8, in great abundance. From this we turned toward the south, and, alter that, to the south-east; when, passing first a small lake whore I procured a meridian altitude of the sun, and travers- ing a low ahorool limestone, we arrived at the great lake ofNei- tyel-le at one o'clock. The cast shore of this piece of water presented a ridge of granite hills, and the guides pointed out on the faces of these several winter hnti which they called 0-ka-u-eet. The guide Awack had left Ills canoo here ; and he therefore separated from us to go in search ol it, while we pursued our course to the southward, soon reaching the banks of a river. F attempted in vain, at this time, to form some estimate of the size of this lake; for the snow drift was so heavy as entirely to prevent this, since I could never see more xv** I" " .'" ""y t'lrcction, during the time that we were near it Wo found the canoe belonging to the other suide "n p. ^n',^\\ i=.!cf in the river; and, at this point, we estimated the stream to behalf a ? .fj ) a ■i'U :h 20(> SECOND VOYAGE OF D1S«.0VERY mile in breadth; while, as the ice on it was of very considerable thickness, I was inclined to believe that the water was deep. From the information of the guide Ooblooria it runs into the sea in a di rection to the south-west of this islet, flowing out of the south" , eastern end of the lake which we had passed. The banks were ot limestone; and, from some fragments of this rock, with the as sistance of Mr. Blanky, I erected a cairn, and we went through the usual ceremony of taking possession. At three o'clock we had fi- nished all that we could now do in this quarter, and prepared for our return. ^ ^ In no long tuae we found the canoe, which Awack had left for us to pick up, while he went forward to melt some snow to be readv on our arrival at the hut At six we reached the sea once more and the river of Pad-le-ak at seven ; at which time the weather had fcecorae settled and clear. I therefore ascended an elevated ground with Ooblooria, and thus obtained a very perfect view of this ot tensive inlet. He here informed me, that to the quarter he pointed, extending from north-west to south-west, there was a continuous open sea, o a sea free of all ice, during the summer, and that a short distance beyond a high and bold cape, which terminated the north-east shore of the inlet, no land could be seen to the westward. But, from the south-west to the south-east, there was a tract of land connecl- mg the ground on which we stood with Ac-cool-le and the shores ol Kepulse bay, while there was no way into this sea from the south; so that if our ship desired to reach Ney-tyel-le from her present position, she must go round a long way to the northward From this evidence which appeared to be as accurate as he was clear and oonsistent in giving it, I concluded that we were now looking OD (he great western ocean, of which these people had so frequently spoken to us, that the land on which we stood was part of the great continent of America, and that if there was any pasLe to westward m this quarter, it must be sought to the nbrthward ^rJin P^^l'T' f ^° *•?" '"P* '° 1"««»'°" ' gave the name ^vered ^^ *"'*^''' **" ^^""^ ^'^^^^"y '* ^«* •^'*- The guide Ooblooria now pointing to the south-west, said that the way to Oo-geoo-hk lay in this direction; on which I endeavoured to persuade him to accompany me there in the coming spring. }n this, however, I could not succeed by any offers or promises that I could make; his objections seeming to arise from the great dis- tance, and from the difficulty of procuring food; the last being a reason far too solid to be removed by aught but the complete de- monstration of a sufficient and well-secured supply. In the course 01 tniS dlSCIIfifllon. Ha infnt>tnaA ^^ iU-i _r .1 ... ... , — — .,.„,„ „,^ j„„j suHtc oi me irioe wniCD TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 20, inhabits that place had brought their people drift-wood from it but that none of them had ever been there; so that their communU cat.on was very htnited, and their knowledge, of course, buTim- Del I6CI« We reached our hut at nine in the evening, and found that Awack had, as we had expected, arrived before us. He bad dis- played h.s newly acquired learning, or his ingenuity, in a rather unexpected manner; having succeeded in procuring a li^ht bv means of the oxymuriatic matches which he had seen us ifse for that purpose; and he had thus provided us with an ample supply of water; a refreshment of which we were much in need, and the rn,r.r'"'^ ""["^'^'^ •' ^^r^^ ^^^^^^-^^ely tantalizing in a country of snow and .ce; seeing that we are living among water «^lkmg on water, and eternally annoyed by waterfin one aS fitsforms, and always forgetting that the snow and ice of thfs rozen land .s a far other thing thaa that of our own winters, and of heat ' '"'^ " '''^''^"' «'■""* '"*'°'»'' «"•* «4«nse Being now on our way home, we for the first time afforded our- selves a warm mess of grouse soup, while we also boiled some seal's flesh for our companions. Ooblooria was completely tired, from his great exert.ons dunng the day. His partner was suffering from snow blmdness; and thus it fell on him to lead the way. as it WM unknown to ourselves. Thus labouring through snow which wSs often very deep w.th the drift in his face, and at a very quick rite a the head of the sledge, he had gone at least forty miles, so tha; his fatigue was no cause of surprise. All slept soundly and bv ten^o^clock the following morning, we resumed^. Journey home- hu^TTi,' "u'""''^*^ ^''•'^!'^ ''*^''"^*' °««'' ^^^ «««t end of the great lake ol Thy-shug-ge-wuck and found it to be 69'^ 38' 53' Here Awack left us, but rejoined us again, within four hours, at Tar-rio- mt-yoke ; bnngmg with him the paunch of a deer, which they esteem great delicacy together with some fish that he had concealed b he summer We arrived at our hut on the inlet of Too-nood-lead a lour m the afternooi,, and Justin time to escape a most violent gale of wind from the northward, accompanied by a very heavy drift, which continued without intermission during the whole night and made us doubly thankful for the shelter which our little nesla/- tSus'ie" ""'' '"'^^•^"^ *^«'d too; for the thermometer fell April lO.-Towards nine this morning the gale began to abate; nd as we were anxious to reach the ship, we set out at noon, when the wind gradually subsided, and the remainder of the iiurney r"ve« veryagreeaDie, a» the weather at ieuKth hecaine. niiln. i I as ■208 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY possible. The guide Ooblooria was, however, in a very larueiii- uble condition ; sufTering from snow blindness, and his knees bcint^ ulcerated from the friction of his frozen trousers. The Esquimaux sledge was occupied by the three canoes wliirh formed the principal object of their journey, so that there was in, room in it for this unlucky man, who could scarcely see his way, in consequence of the streaming of tears from his inflamed eye». I therefore desired him to seat himself in ours: and was mucli pleased at the difficulty which I had in prevailing on him;aslii^ politeness or goodnature did not choose that we should walk lot his accommodation. This, however, proved of no inconvenience, either to Mr, Blanky or myself, who were fresh, and had not la- boured jnore than was necessary to keep us warm. Knowing now also the ground, we took on ourselves the office of guides, walking at the head of the sledges alternately, to point out the best wav through the rough ice and hummocks, it was, finally, the onh good day and the only agreeable journey which we had ev pcrienced since quitting the ship; while it also permitted me l<« make all the observations necessary for the future survey of tli ., lineof coast; and thus we at length reached the Victory at six in the evening. CHAPTER XXH. Proceedings in the Ship, an, expedien prive ourselves of i absoiulely noiiessarj they should fall to n purchasing \< hat w£ April 14. -A V inasmuch as we foi Tho weather, both li'An(|uil : and we re now united into one Tho vessel had heeh side, that it was n (hat part of the dec Mnow-hank round tli u» work for the fo those three days vac bfiingpl»s2». Ont the party had remoi lion. April 17.— Comm "lodge. The natives 'panfcd by one, whi TO Tll» ABCTrC UEOIONS. . „, (he Ihermoraeter, 'lie olber being inundaled witli wato.. i mconi, wilh anolher of. pair of glomVlhe male f„ liL"''', " borrowed pair which U>o Sog. hSd e.. ^ They 1 ived "h ir siXThV-iKrhi-trdT "'h F^^ |l«| .he, wire eaugh. io^etrofXLtl.^e"'' VdtSoL' n.Lr!^ r ""' r^V'"P'"'i wilh a solmion fo, ,hi» fac( «ho.n, uh'uU rrivet'Z' "i'"?' '" ""'' '"' ' ''»"»^- i«li't;eV:'s (hZhrhlda';?:.'""'''^ "^' n'''^''"°'^ lZ;™.!?i i°,°T',"°°" ""»'Pri»e niee familios ia S E £Vi of .h7deTT' '" '""•"1 "'» -««!'. of snow from «^.nrlS ;i»;j.fi;v.dri"^:t-.7i!,::r;b^^^^^^ '™.™ », one, while ,„.ki„g „b.crva.ion,, ■„ sh™" hin.'Xe u (ill-.i. S>0 SECOND VOVAOE OF DISCOVERY the seals luiglit be found. To gel rid of tiira, I pointed to a placo, at hazard; and, in the event, acquired the reputation of a conjuror, inasmnch as ihey afterwards caught three. Prognostication was, nowever, a trade far too dangerous to our reputation, to be in- dulged in; and I hoped that the opportunities would not often bo forced on us in this manner. One of the seals was very gratefully bronglit to me, as an acknowledgment; but the bearer was never- theless rewarded with a file. The first snow buntings of the season were seen this day. Commander lloss returned in the evenini^ from the newly erected northern huts, about six miles off: and having explored the reported inlet, determined that there was no passage in that direction. Thus was one of our projects extermi nated ; but there were two still remaining. April 18. — This Sunday was a calm one; but the temperature did not rise beyond 1 1 " plus. After church, one of the men brought back the iron door of the fox-trap which his brother had stolen after he had built it. There seemed more temptation to steal, than desire to retain; for they never had any reluctance in returning what had been stolen. Their opinion seemed to be, that although it was wrong to steal, no harm was done if the owner did not miss the property : an argument not uncommon, I am sorry to say, among their betters in our own country, but noi the more defensible because it has an apologist in Shakspeare, Makin" no concealment from their friends, these did not fail to inform : while, not denying when accused, they seemed to consider the whole matter, the reproach of thief, and all else, as a " good joke." Yet they sometimes brought peace offerings; as they did on this day, in a small seal. 1 also recovered the trough of the arti- ficial horizon, which had been missed for two days, together with a dog which had been detained : the culprit, who was going to Neitchillee, being appfwently very penitent, and desirous of making friends with us before his departure.' All of them were about to remove; and it is probable that we were more sorry than they, at a parting, after which, as we then thought, we were not likely to meet again. April 10. — It blew fresh, with thick drift snow, but it did not prevent many of the natives from coming to us, to take a second farewell. Each received some present; and at ten, they drove off to the southward, leaving their former habitations empty, They were evidently sorry at parting, though expecting to see ns at Neitchillee; and their final adieu was a universal shout of thanks and goodluck, in their own, now tolerably intelligible, tongue. April 20. — There was a cold breeze till evening, when it be- came calm.. A seal was brought to us from the northern village; and fkraaiiik's sou proposed to be a guide to Shag-a-voke, the sia tion near Neitcl strong current of the morning, wb( reward being a fi of the season, on could not persua promised to retui the boilers, to ob iron had been ori iness. The then April 2 1. —Co with their guide a clear, and the wi brought a seal-skii not accepted. Ot they were informe had stolen; an ai respecting some, c April 22.— On for a month; the brought a large sa informed us, at th< present station for cers returned from exhausted, with his to the south of our In spite of the cc that there was a cr( wide, at the new se length, and lay at tl lo the westward, ic was the same whii before they came tc they had ascertaim capes which bound ship, as was the con towards AkuUee in of Commander Ross TO THE ARCTIt REGIONS. g„ tion near Neitchillee, where we were desirn.i« nf o strong current of the tide. Ho was a ord ; y kep oTZZ'rU the morning, when the expedition was to fakp nh7p • .t ^'" ... Tas^atI1l-:;xl^-'°■'■•'-^- respecting some, of which we did not know. '''"'^''' for i' monirt?^ It' '^«"^y-««««"d, it was colder than it had been lor a month; the thermometer faiHng to minus (\<> Th» .• of Commander R«,iXlow„*wo* "■"" «'™ ""^ °'"-"'™ «•■ *i" 14' Sl« SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY CHAPTER XXIII. Commander Ross's Second Journey and Narrntlvn. ' We had already ascertained that it was tlie western ocean which we had formerly seen across the narrow isthmuH oi' that tract nl land which we afterwards named Boothia; and coupling this knowledge with the account which the £sqiiimanx had given us of the place which they called Shag-a-voke, and whoro they de- scribed a strong current running from the westward, through a narrow strait, we conceived the not unnatural hope that wo might there find some passage into the western sea. The nntivcH, indeed, gave us no encouragement ; assuring us thai the land was here continuous from north to south within the whole range of their knowledge, and aflirming positively that there was no (xissagp where we fancied that one might possibly exist. Hut wn did not think ourselves at all justified in taking this on their showing : they might not be correct ; and, at any rate, wo wore sure that we should leave a source of repentance for ourselves, and probnhly a ground for reproach from our countrymen, should wn ho satis- fied with anything short of ocular demonstration; above all, when we had come so far for such an object, and had the moans of absolutely satisfying ourselves, in our power. April 31. — Hut as Awack and Ooblooria continued to sufler from their exertions during the last journey, and were unable to accompany us, Noak-wush-yuk, a lad of sixteen or sevonteen, offered to act as my guide, and we accordingly began our journey on the twenty-first of April, at an early hour in iIh) morning. The day commenced, unluckily, with ha/e and iinow; and thorn was too much wind to allow us to travel with contlort or expe- dition; especially as that brought with it the usual snow drill, which is the almost invariable attendant of a winter gulu in theRR regions. We nevertheless held on toward the south-west, along the land, until we reached the inlet leading to >Shag-a-voke ; getting Night of its entrance, and landing on one of the tli-..'!e iHletii which lie ofl' the cape, which they term Ac-cood-le-ruk-luk, n( (our in the nflernoon. Here the guide endeavoured to porkuade ine that this was the place called Sliag-a-voke; but it dill'ered ho iiuirh I trill iixc utrsvx ipiitrli vriiit-ii r titxvs iTrvT-tTTrtt ti\;tti •? rt?rr?--:rT in tirrsTi •••• my poin(in({ up the inlet, lie immediately miid Sliii((-loo-ooAiiK»t TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. fl} "I have told a story," and begged to be allowed to build a hut : saying that he was so much fatigued that he could go no further. By this time the wind ha4 subsided, and the weather, which •lad before been so disagreeable , was succeeded by a beautiful evening. Unwilling, therefore, to lose the advantage afforded by weather as rare as it was fine, the boy was put on the sledge, and we proceeded along the north-west shore of Ac-cood-le-ruk- tuk, in a west-south- westerly direction, during which little journey I had an opportunity of ascr ruining its general ap- pearance. *^ The entrance of this inlet is formed by Cape Tad-le-achua on the south-east, and the low point of Ac-cood-le-ruk-tuk on the lorth- west; the^ two points being,.about live miles asunder. Both the shores are composed of r<>d granite; and there are some islets lying off each of these points, in such a manner as to occupy a large portion of the entrance. In proceeding upwards into it, the shores gradually approximate; and, at the distance of about four miles from the entrance, where they take a remarkably tortuous course, (he breadth of the inlet was only a hundred and twenty feet; that place forming its narrowest portion. Narrow too as this channel 18, It IS still further contracted by some rocks within it, which rise above the water, on which, at this time, much heavy ice was grounded. I'^om all these particulars, I doubted whether even a boat could be carried into the upper part of this arm of the sea; as ij certainly would not afford a passage to any ship. But being now desirous to make a more accurate examination Uian I could do while wc were in motion, I selected a spot for a hut; and declaring my intention to halt, set Noak-wush-yuk to work to build us the usual snow house : departing alone oo lliis pursuit. That I might proceed the more lightly, I left my gun behind, whicli I had soon occasion to regret ; as, within an hour's time, I perceived two animals trotting behind me. It being dusk, I mistook them for wolves, and though those were not the most agreeable companions lor an unarmed man, I was infinitely more mortified at the want ol my gnn, on finding them to be two line deer, which passed wKhin ten yards of me. They were the first which had been seen this season, I here saw, that above the narrow strait just mentioned, the inlet expanded again to a breadth varying from one quarter to thre« quarters of a mile; and after about three hours' of quick walking, I arrived at its further extremity, and landed on the small islet where we had found Tulloack's ounoc buried. I had liuia com- I'ioicd the examination of tiie only inlet to the smith through which, wo could have hoped to find a passage to the western sou. t ♦ ■ It f «: 1 Ml tl« SECOND VOVAOE OF DISCOVERY This inlet, Shag-a-voke, derives its name fiom the rqpidity with which, in the sumnier time, the stream rushes out through the contracted and narrow channel which it .nust pass in its way to the sea ; and I formerly remarked, .that the name is expressive ol this fact : since the literal interpretation of that is — " it runs fast." — Respecting the cause of this current there can be no difficuhv; since the mass of water by which it is produced is evidently derived from the melting of the snow on the upper lands ; the whole ol which finds its way in numerous torrents, as we had afterwaid.s occasion to see, through the valleys which tend down to the head and the sides of this inlet. Hence the great rush of water in the early part, at least, of the summer ; that being also the time in which this place is chiefly frequented by the natives, as it is the season of the fishery, when the salmon are labouring to .work their way upwards from the sea. It was midnight when I returned to the hut, which had been erected for some time; after n much longer journey than I had intended, but which 1 could not prevail on myself to shorten when I found myself led on gradually from point to point, lost I should leave this investigation incomplete. I must confess that I was ex- tremely fatigued; as I had travelled fifty miles during this day, and had reason, on this account, to blame the stupidity of the guide in not having built a larger hut. We had great difficulty in forcing ourselves into it, by all our ingenuity and perseverance; and when there, it would not hold the three! which formed our party, in any but a posture between sitting and lying; but it was, for that reason, the warmer, and we contrived to get some ef the sleep which fatigue brings, in return for ils grievances. April 22. — It was not, however, that sleep which the restless envy, and wlwoh all would gladly prolong. We wore much more glad to rise than wo had been to lie down ; if such a term can be applied to a posture as like to that in the parish stocks as aught else, or the word bed to a " form" which even a hare could not have occupied, and which would have required all the flexibility (tj a fox or a rabbit. Luckily it was a very line morning; and after having shook ourselves, like the bears, I proceeded to finish my observations, which being completed, wo set out for the ship. As we proceeded down the inlet, the dogs got a sight of three deer which were passing over to the opposite slioro; and before wo could stop them, or were well aware of the matter, they sft off in full chase, with the sledge n( their heels. At every bound which this carriage made over the rough ice, some part of our baggugo fJHW out, to llie great amusement oi our guide, who shouted with joy at the " fun." The whole was soon out of sight ; TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. Stft and we had nothing to do bat to follow, and to pick up our in- struments and other matters, as fast and as well as we could; till, after three hours hard walking, we overtook the machine, hard wedged between two pieces of ice, and the dogs so fatigued that they were scarcely able to move. No harm was however done, but (hat of prolonging our journey, as the course of the deer was very different from ours; so that it was eight o'clock before we reached the ship, sufficiently tired. We were obliged, however, to leave our guide some miles in the rear, since he was incapable of keeping up with us, and was in fact completely exhausted. IJut he had found a parly of his friends to receive him, and was therefore very well taken care of. In the morning he came to the ship ; yet not with the same con- fidence as usual, and with a somewhat different reputation from that which he had carried out with him. The fact of his having attempted to deceive us by a falsehood, had been made known to his countrymen, and he was now called " Shug-loo," the liar. He himself was evidently ashamed ; though whether of his conduct or his nickname, we could only at first conjecture : but it was pro- bable that his conscience was the cause, since he did not apply to me for the file which I had promised him as the reward of his services ; and, still more did this ap|)ear to be the reason, because, when I afterwards asked him why he had forgotten it, his answer was that he was not entitled to it, because he had not told the •ruth. Up, after that, related the whole affair to the people of his own party who had come to the ship with hitn ; without any feeling offence, and with perfect apparent simplicity. What sort of disapprobation is here attached to falsehood, it was not very easy to discover; since it was more often a matter of jest with those people, than of actual censure. If that which is termed a " white lie" is only a matter of joke in this country, our fricndb here did not differ much from ourselves on the subject of veracity ; but there seemed reason to believe that the merit or demerit of a real one, intended to deceive, depended on its success or failure ; that, as in the case of theft, whether in Sparta or among itji follow savages of the .South sea, the unsuccessful rogue was the only one deserving blame or ridicule ; as the very fact thu our friend was laughed at rather than blamed, conliriiis this notion. There havu been two hypotheses, and two enors, among travellers who have visited the rude and savage tribes of the world. The one sees virtue every where, and even finds it disguised under the garl. of vice : the other is the direct reverse. I cannot help sometime*! sus- pecting that we ourselves had been somewhal too much inclined io look Ht our Lsijuiinttux frioudi through a sunny coloured glass ; • Is .. *r^ 216 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY but, at any rate, that is the most comfortable view which preserves ourselves in the best humour. The farce, however, ended at last by a promise from the " liar" to commit (his sin no more : on which the iile was given to him : and he trotted off to join his friends, with a light heart, and, doubt- less, with a conscience no longer aching. CHAPTER XXIV. Departure of Commander Ross on a Third Expedition— Threatening of a Rupture with the Natives^Coramander Ross's Return. It had now, therefore, been completely ascertained that there was no passage into the western sea to the south of the 70lh degree ; and it therefore became unnecessary to lay plans for proceeding iii this direction with the ship. The more minute examination to the northward, was therefore the object to which our attention was next to be directed. Thus also did we find reason to be thankful that we had made no further progress ; Title as we foresaw, at one lime, that we should have come to such a determination as this. Had that been the case, we should have been entangled still deeper in a bay encumbered with peculiarly heavy ice, and, after all, been obliged to retrace our steps to the northward ; while under inli- nitely greater difficulties in extricating ourselves, and perhaps not to have rescued our ship from the ice during the whole summer. It was not an unimportant part of the report of this journey, to find that reindeer had been seen only twelve miles to the south of onr place, with innumerable tracks of the same animal, attended by the •races of their enemies, the wolves. April 23.— Being St. George's day, the usual ceremony of a royal salute, and the display of Hags was adopted. There was no one, indeed, to witness this customary loyalty^ but it was right to maintain the etiquette of the service. The better part of the dav. after this, was occupied in cutting out the rudder, which had re- ceived some dimnge fiom the ice ; but there was still a holiday left for the crew. Some of the natives arrived ; and the guide boy parsed on Ms way home. April al. —The morning began lino, but ended with snow fi oiii (he noi'lhwui'il. IMnkinir an <>vitiii'i;i<»i tt\ tUa 1<>» ..I' '""'*' '^y ^''"^h ^« ««"'d Bel round or Lht thlt w« T "'''• -"''''l '' '^'''' '"f«>'"'« coi him to suspend his laid hold of his upli flection. The result of tha defence ; though we unexpected enemies Vhere I had left my Abernethy had no a selves in vain conje that we had parted j The ferocious oh now, by both bis S( though he strove ha party seemed to be which he might mal jpinion among them was plain from the ( still hope for some ] now began to talk a manner as to be rcai and we not choosing who were closing in pause, and a still sh( began to close in, b to their usual custon finding that further I gun to my shoulder, that the threat alone little loss of time, th evident alarm, and r open passage in the But as I could noi swer my questions, \ state of suspense am courage or conlidenc just as I was again advancing up to our mark of fear. • From her, we sooi absurd as it was, mij probably have been adopted sons, a fine linevv, had been kille stone on his head. ' TO Ih . ARCTIC REGIONS. sei cause of all (his. commotron. But the sun, dazzling him, caused him to suspend his arm for an instant; when on^ of his sons laid hold of his uplifted hand, and gave us a moment's time for re- flection. The result of that was, of course, an immediate preparation for defence; though we could have done little against such oods as our unexpected enemies displayed. We therefore retired to the sledge, where I had left my gun ; and not daring again to quit it, as Mr.' Abernethy had no arcis, waited for the result, while losing our- selves in vain conjectures respecting the cause of offence, seeing that we had parted good friends on the preceding day. The ferocious old man Pow-weet-yah was still held fast, and now, by both his sons, who had pinioned his arms behind him; though he strove hard to disengage himself ; while the rest of the party seemed to be standing in readiness to sefiond any attempt ivhich he might make on us. That there was some difference of jpinion among tliem, howe\'er, and that all were not equally hostile, (vas plain from (he conduct of these young men ; so that we could still hope Ibr some parley before matters came to extremity. They now began to talk among themselves, and then separated in such a manner as to be ready to surround us, which having nearly effected, and we not choosing to be so cut off from the ship, I warned those who were closing in on the rear, to desist. This produced a short pause, and a still shorter conference ; but they immediately again began to close in, brandishing their knives in defiance, according to their usual custom, and had nearly gained their object, when finding that further forbearance would be hazardous, I placed the gun to my shoulder, and was about to fire, when I fortunately saw that the threat alone was sufficient to give them a check. With little loss of time, those who had advanced nearest broke off, in evident alarm, and retreated towards their huts; thus leaving us an open passage in the rear. But as I could not induce any of them to approach, or to an- swer my questions, we continued for nearly half an hour in this stale of suspense and perplexity, when we were relieved by the courage or confidence of one of the women, who came out of a hut just as I was again raising my gun, and called to me not to fire, advancing up to our party immediately, without showing the least mark of fear. • From her, we soon learned the cause of ail this hubbub, which, absurd as it was, might have had a fatal termination, as we should' probably have been the chief sufferers. One of Pow-weet-yah's adopted sons, a fine boy of seven or eight jears of age, whom we knew, had been killed on the preceding night, by the falling of a stone on his head. This they had ascribed to our agency, through ■n •* iiZ SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY the supernatural powers which we were believed to possess; while the father, not very unnaturally under this conviction, had meditated revenge in the manner which we had experienced. I had much difficulty in persuading the good woman that wc were totally ignorant of this catastrophe, and that we were very sorry for the misfortune ; she however repeated all that I had said to two of the men who had not taken any share in the business ol the attack, and who now approached us unarmed, in token of peace. Their object was to persuade us to go back to the ship, and to return in three days, w'len they offered to be our guides to the desired place. But many reasons opposed this scheme ; of which the chief was, that as this was the first misrnderstanding that had occurred between us, it was essential to come to an understanding, and to renew our friendship, without any delay, lest the oppor- tunity should not again occur; as they might go away in the mean timfl, whether from fear of our returning in greater numbers, oi for iny other reason, and thus, not only cause a lasting estrange- ment as to themselves, but a general hostility or desertion on the part of all the natives within their connexions or reach ; thus ren> deriug the whole land our enemies. . I therefore objected to tim proposal, and declared that I would not go back till we were all once more good friends : when perceiving that the hostile party was gradually approaching our groupe, though, probably, but to hear the conversation that was passing, I drew a line on the snow, and declared that none of them should cross it without putting away their knives, which they still continued to grasp in their righi hands, with their arms folded across the breast. After some con- versation among themselves, their grim visages began to relax, the knives were put up ; and, becoming at last apparently convinced that we had no concern in the death of this boy, they seemed now very anxious to remove the unfavourable impression which theii' conduct, as they must needs conclude, had made on us. But they still urged us to retutn to the ship, because, as they said, it was impossible for them to make use of their dogs till three dayt had passed away after the death of any one belonging to a family. Though in all probability this was really a funereal v:sage, or a settled period of mourning, I was unwilling to yield this point, could 1 poo- sibly carry it ; as the loss of even three days at this season was un important consideration. I therefore produced a large file, offering it to any one of thi> party who would go with me, and assuring them at the same time, that il they all refused I should go alone, and they would thus lotie the reward. On this, a.consul(ation of some minutes took place, in coinpani«d by my name: which being ended, the man called Poo y«t-ta}i seemed t( company mc, provii Ok levcntecn, to be TU'id I of course uieful than one ; ai pure for the journc; fcotly re-established mtwded round, soti bttliaviour, and put was their habitual c If I have dwelt c tliJM wat* iha only o< fettliiigs towards us neighbourhood. I (if having brought llie coolness and sel conducive to a tern rity or incaution mi It was at ten o'cl (he north-west corn ciatnaisons ofour fr M'Dinrmid went bji what had happened <)rlivflday8,asfAra M) that our party cot maux. Hie baggage ant drawn by six doga ; i tiio smooth ice of th miles, the guide Po wns going to a seal loft hand. As I con and return to the hi consented without a After we had wal lound, and, striking when remarking als liind, he placed Im s IIS well as he, and h( (Staled, his bag knil hole, he lay down, ai »»y which it was co> mm days. As thei (O till! ulaAama amA /. TO THE AIICTIC REGIONS. •in yet-tall Beemed U yield to hiti wife's entreaties, and offered to ac- company me, provided I would allow Il-lik-tah, a fine lad of sixteen ot levonteen, to be associatpd with him, Thij I of course agreed to, as two companions would be mere uietui than one; and they accordingly went off to the huts to pre- ))ure for the journey. That the peace was now considered as per- frclly re-established, thoro could no longer be any doubt ; since thev crowded round, sotin reuuming their usual friendly and confidential btilittviour and putting on that cheerfulness of countenance which was Ihcu- habitual expression. If I have dwelt on this adventure at some length, it is because tliiM was tha only occasion on which they ever showed any hostile felings towards us, during all tho years which we passed in their neighbourhood. I must not, however, take to myself all the merit (il having brought our little party out of this adventure in safety Ihi coolness and self.poisosiion of my two companions were mainly conducive to a termination of that, in which the least act of teme' rily or incaution might have cost the whole of us our lives. It was at ten o'clock that wo commenced our journey towards (be north-west corner of tho bay, and we were followed by the ac- c^malsoM of our friends at long as we were within hearing. Mr V IT", i ^^"* ''"'''''' "* ^•'" ""^^^^^^ *« '»f«'''» Captain Koss of What had happened, and to say that we expected to be absent four or hvfl days, as far os I couldjudge from the calculation of the guide: M)tliot our party consisted now but of four, including the two Esqui- 1 ae baggage and provisions were placed on two sledges, each drawn by six dogs; and, by their aid, we travelled very quickly over tho smooth ice of the bay. After having thus made ten or twelve miles, the guide Poo-yet-tali stopped his sledge, and said that he was going to a seal hole that he knew of, at some distance on our lolt hand. As I could not help »ii«pecting that he might leave us «n«l return to the huts, I proposed to accompany him; to which he consented without any hesitation. After we had walked some time, he, being in advance, turned round, and, striking mo on the breast, said that I was " Rood •" when remarking also for the first time, that 1 had left my gun be'- limd, he placed his spoor in my hand, saying that I should be armed «» wo I as he, and he drew from his dress, where it had been con- fiiflled, his long knife, for his own arm. On arriving at tho seal I'He, he lay down, and, putting his note to the slight coating of snow by which It was covered, said that tho animal had deserted it for lomo days. As there was thus nothing to be gained, we returned „ --.-I, ,n«csi UH« jwuiucy; eacn, oy luros, unduiv ; r ^ ^^P' M4 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY taking to lead on foot, and then, in rotation, taking bis seat in the vehicle. At two in the afternoon we entered an inlet which the guide called An-ne-reak-to, running in a north-north- west direction, aud being about a mile wide at the entrance. The eastern cape of the opening was named by him Ne-ak-kog-e-nek ; an appellation de- rived from a rock projecting through the shingle, which bore a fancied resemblance to a human head. The western point, termed Neck-ler-rid-yeoo, forms the termination of Ac-cood-le-ruk-tuk; a name which they seem to apply to all pieces of land, or penin- sulas, which are nearly surrounded by water, be that fresh or salt. We continued, hence, to journey along the western shore of this inlet, till we entered the mouth of a river, about a mile and a hall from its entrance, turning off to the wr>st-north-west, and leaving to our right the termination of An-ne-reak-to. This part of the river iscalled Ac-cood-le-it-pang-ut, and though covered with fresh- water ice, bore evident marks of a rise and fall of the tide on its shores. At three o'clock we arrived at a point where the stream was contracted, so as to produce a rapid, or fall of about twenty yards in length ; but hence our journey became exceedingly labo- rious, as the whole valley wao so filled with loose snow that we could no longer pursue the windings of the river as we had hitherto done. Thus far, the right bank of the stream consisted of blocks of limestone, through which masses of gneiss could be seen pro- jecting in different places, while the left side ascended from the water in a gentle slope, so as to attain an elevation of a hundred feet at the distance of a mile. At six we came to a small lake, which is the source of this river, surrounded by high, rugged, or precipitous shores, the ravines of which were filled with closely-packed drift snow, by which the summits of the hills in the distance were also covered. From this place we then turned more to the northward, crossing a high ridgo for the purpose of reaching another lake, and undergoing great labour during an ascent of an hour and a half, from the steepm v, of the ground and tlie depth of the snow. It was not till ten i night that we arrived at our halting place, and finished this days journey; men, and dogs too, all equally tired with a laborious strug- gle against a high wind and driving snow, during a space of thirty miles which we computed that we had travelled. The two Esquimaux soon erected an excellent snow hut, and, after our supper of frozen meat, we betook ourselves to rest; heing all so fatigued that we could not converse, even on the events ol the morning, on which I should otherwise have entered, for the purpose of understandinff better the nature of their funereal usages, as well TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^ih as that 1 might convince myself of the entire removal of all their fan- cies respecting our supernatural and mischievous agency. April 28. — The night was extremely tempestuous; and, in the mornmg, it blew very hard from the north, with a heavy driviti- snow, so that we could not quit our hut till nine. From this cause we made very little way till towards noon, when the wind moderated a good deal, after which the day became beautiful. The latitude by a meridional observation, was 70° 25' 19", and at this time, beink noon, we passed a great number of Esquimaux marks placed on an islet m a large lake. This, as our guides informed us, was a fishing station much frequented in the summer and autumn; the lake abounding with salmon daring these seasons, which was the time durmg which they f.ricended from the sea, through a river which linds Its exit from the north-eastern corner of this piece of water The station itself was called Nap-pur-re-uk-ta-lig. This place is entirely surrounded by granite hills, and the islets consist of the same rock. The lake Itself is of a very irregular shape, and of con- siderable extent from the north-east to the south-west. Leaving this spot, we crossed this piece of water in a north- westerly direction, but found the travelling very laborious, from the great depth of the snow, which was also loose, and occupied the course of the river and lake : being unfortunately the direction- most convenient for us. This, like all similar places in this country they called It-tib-lin-ne-ak. Though the road was as bad as could well be, throughout the whole of this hollow, or watercourse, there was one place which far outdid all the rest. This was a frozen rapid m the river, where, in addition to fhr irregularity and rough- ness of the ice, which also projected i .iippery masses through the loose snow, the declivity was so considerable that the sledges ran down It with fearful rapidity, getting before the dogs, which they dragged along, and endangering tiie vehicles themselves, with all which they carried. We found a safer, though .. more rugged path for ourselves, and halted at five o'clock to make the necessary observations for the longitude. It was not v^iy wonderful that the sight of the instru- ments revived in the mind of the guide the belief in our powers of conjuration. And as the idea of eating is ever predominant in the mind of an Esquimaux, while hunting and fishing are almost the only occupation of (heir lives, his inquiries took this very natural turn. Should we find any mu§k oxen by means of this inexplicable brasswork, or see them among the hills, while looking so intensely through these tubes and glasses? In fact, we were in the parts frequented by those animals ; and it was a .very natural conclusion that Wft hfld nnma iU,,^ fn» ~«J i„I,„~ -II 4U„ .^^ ti f ,. . «»i.3 jnsj auu lEttcu «is ;;;iS iroubic, for that 15 I 2>ti SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY most important of all purposes, a dinner or a feast. Poot-jet-(ali had yel to learn that civilized Europeans must gain thoir dinners by '"oeralions much more circuitous than killing and eating them : an*d would have been puzzled to understand a HyMtcm which had brought so many men in a large ship, all tho way from England to his shores, that they might command tho moans of present and future dinners by measuring angles and looking at the moon. I was by no means desirous, however, of passing for a conjuror. We had found ourselves in a sufficiently 'awkward predicament already, in consequence of this, to us, unenviable reputation ; and I therefore declared my total ignorance of all musk oxen and thcii ways. At this he seemed greatly disappointed, and then proposed that we should build a hut in this place to watch for thorn ; hut on my expressing my desire to go still further thin day, lip quickly again put on his good-tempered face, and we proceeded ac cordingly. In less than half an hour his sharp eyes observed the tracks ol several cf these animals on the face of the steep hill, at the fool ol which our road lay. On examining them, ho found that (lie animals had passed many days before: b(St makinj: a further »c«rtli, he soon found the traces of two which he asserted to have been at this spot on this very evening. We therefore went back to tlic sledges ; and after selecting a spot to build a hut, and leaving the work to be executed by tho boy, he took his bow and ar rows and set ofl ; leading two of his dogs in couploH, and de- siring me to follow, with ray gun and favourite dog Tup-(o ach-ua. On regaining the tracks, ho immediately lot Hlip the dogs. and I followed his example with mine. They went olTat lull speed, and were very soon out of sight ; r.s tho nature of llir surface did not allow us a very distant view of the ground. His politeness, however, induced him to think mo too inmih futigiipd 10 accompany him in search of the dogs and the game ; and he therefore slackened his pace, refusing to leave mo behind, Ihongli I urged him to do so lest we should lose our expecleil prey, iind assuring me that the dogs would take good care of their own business. Wo went on, therefore; laboriously enough, for two hour^, over a very rugged country and through deep snow ; when finding lliai ihe footsteps of the dogs no longer followed that of (he oxen, he concluded that they had got up with the animnU, and were probabiy holding one or both of them at bay. We soon found this to be the fact, on lurnuig the angle of a bill *, when TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS ^^^ the sight of a Tine ox, at bay before the three dogs, cured our latigue in an instant, and we went ofF ourselves at full speed to the rescue. * Poo-yet-tah, however, kept the lead, a.id was in the act of di«<- ohargmg his second arrow when I came up. We saw that it had struck on a rib since it fell out without even diverting the attention ol the animal from the dogs, which continued barking arid dodginir round It, seizing it by the heels whenever they had an opportunitv ')!• when It turned to escape, and then retreating as it faced them' In the meantime, it was trembling with rage, and labouring to reach its active assailants, but unable fo touch them, experienced as ihey were in this service. It was easy to see that my companion's weapons were of little value m this warfare, or that the victory vvould not at least have been gained under many hours ; as he continued to shoot wilhonl apparent effect, finding his opportunities for an aim with much diffi- cul V, and losing much time, afterwards, in recovering his arrows J was pleased, therefore, inuependently of the value of the expected same, to hnd an opportunity of showing him the superiority of our arms, and I therelore fired at the animal with two balls, at the distance ol about fifteen yards. They took effect, and it fell • but rising again, made a sudden dart at us, standing close together as we were. We avoided the attack, by dodging behind a large stone which was luckily near us ; on which, rushing with all its force, it struck Its head so violently, that it fell to the ground with such a .Tash that the hard ground around us fairly echoed to the sound ->ly guide, on this, attempted to stab it with his knife ; but failing in this, he sought shelter behind the dogs, which now again came for- ward to the attack. At this time it was bleeding so profusely that the long hair on its .sides were matted with blood ; yet its rage and strength seemed undiminished, as it continued to advance and butt with the same ferocity as before. In the meantime I had reloaded my gun behind the »tone, and was advancing for another shot, when the creature rushed towards .neas before, to the great alarm of Poo-yet-tah, who calle.l to m.' 10 return to the same sheKor. Hut I had time for a cool aim : and It immediately lell, on the discharge of both barrelH, but not (ill >t was within live yards f me. The sight of his fallen enemy made my companion scream and dance with joy, and on his coming up 't vva.s dead ; one ball having passed through the heart, and the "ther having shattered to pieces the shoulder joint. Ho was lost in astonishment at (he effect of (he fire-arms ; first carefully oxaminiug the holes which (he balls had made, and uointin- i^'.-.t i.-. sne that ^ome of them had passed quite (hrough the animal. Hutll wa^' ilie slate of the broken shoulder which most surprised him ; nor 1B» ! r ! I* IP ' /. 2-28 SE(X»M) VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY would it be easy (o forget his look of horror and amazement, when he looked up in my face and exclaimed " IVow-ek-poke ! " (it is broken.) We had now been eighteen hours without any refreshment, and I naturally, therefore, expected that my friend would have lost no time in extracling a dinner out of the ox. I had however done him' injustice : his prudence was more powerful than his stomach. He was content with mixing some of the warm blood with snow, thus dissolving as much as he required to quench his thirst, and then immediately proceeded to skin the animal ; know- ing very well, what I might have recollected, that the operation would shortly become impossible, in consequence of the severity of the cold, which would soon freeze (he whole into £..5 imprac- ticable mass. For the same rcoson, he divided (he carcase into lour parts; afterwards disposing of the paunch and intestines in (he same manner, their con(cnts being previously separated. I did not before know, that they did not eat these as well as the ana- logous mailers of the reindeer; and could only conjecture, that a( (his season of the yeai-, the plants on which the musk ox feeds were disagreeable to (heir taste. In the reindeer, the matters found in their stomachs ar" considered a great delicacy ; and however our own might revolt at a vegetable dish cooked in this manner, this forms a very useful and salutary ingredient among (heir gross animal diet, since it is scarcely possible for them 10 collect any ea(able vegetables by their own exertions. As we were iinablc to carry off our prize, we were obliged (0 build a snow hui over i(, alUr which, setting up marks to enable us to find i( again, we set out on our return to the place where we had left our companions. In the way, we discovered another o\ about a qiiarlor of a mile off, under the face of a precipice, biil were far too fatigued (o think of pursuing it. The guide, however, assured me that this was of no consequence, since it would re- main there for some time, and wo might easily go after it in the morning. We reached the hu( that had been built, at five in the morning of the twenty-ninth, h>mgry and fatigued enough (o find a verv serious cnjoyiiiftnt in a hot supper and rest. We had brought away Bomo of the beef, and found it cxcoedirigly good, not having, a( this season of (he year, the least flavour of musk. In August, nl Melville island, on a former occacion, this (aste was very offensive : and it is only consonant (o other experience in many animals, to •uppoue that this effect takes place in the rutting season. My obser- vations hero, made the latitude 70' 85' 49", and (he longitude O" 8M .HS west ol the ship. W*' had not been asleep more than four or five hours, when wfl TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 28» were awoke by 'he shouts of Poo-vet-lah and the barking of the (logs in full cry. On inquiring of the boy, he informed me thai our guide and huntsman had crept out of the hut silently, about an hour before, and was gone in pursuit of the ox which we had seen on the preceding day. In a short time he reiurned and told us that he had lound the animal grazing on the top of the hill, that he had advanced upon it by the only accessible road, keeping h=m- belf in the middle of his dogs, and that he had done this with so much rapidity, that the creature, finding no other mode of escape, had thrown itself over the precipice. On going to the spot, we accordingly found the carcase in the place which he had mentioned, exceedingly mangled by the fall, which had exceeded thirty feet, while (he place which it had struck was an irregular block of granite. As far as use was concerned, it was however no worse than if it had been uninjured: and the same operations wer« therefore repeated : the whole day being alterwards occupied in this work, and in bringing the meat to our hut. This, however, left leisure for my observations; and the morning proving iine , successful in making them. Among olher things, 1 thus a . ..aed that our present place was about lorty miles Irom the ship, in a direction north 19" west. In the afternoon, there arost; a strong breeze with drifting snow; so that we were glad to have recourse to the shelter of our hut, and thus also made our dinner at a much earlier hour than usual : getting into our fur bags shortly after, that we might ensure a good night's rest. April 30.— It blew so hard a gale from the north during the whole day, that wo were unable to leave the hut; which gave us an opportunity of some conversation with our guides and com- panions, and which I made use of in endeavouring to extract from them a fuller history of the event which had led to our dissensions, and of their feelings and proceedings in consequence. Hoo-yet-tah himself was equally anxious to explain : so that it was scarcely necessary for me to name the subject. Having com- menced, ho proceeded in his tale with so much rapidity and vehe- mence, that it at first seemed tome as if he had re-excited his anger on this subject, and that we were now likely to renew a quarrel which had been suspended, not settled. 1 soon found, however, that ail this energy was the result of his anxiety to convince me that his friends were not in reality to blame, that they had acted under what they believed a conviction of our treachery, or wicked interfe. '•ice, and that we ought now (o br perfectly reconciled, Since w« ad ejiuulpMiiHl 'ld be obliged to travel over high hills, where the sledges could not go, we must leave all our baggage al the hut, and that we might (hen proceed to Aw-wuk-too-teak and return to sleep. We accordingly set out at half-pmt seven, taking with ii«« otir arms and three of the dogs, in case of our falling in with any more of the musk oxen, and leaving Mr. Abernethy and the boy in chargr !»f the bnggngc. Travelling over a very rugged country covered with deep it.iow, du lakd which ihey call the chart. This piece of wat from north-east by c appeared about foui as it ia bounded by I an equal number oi courccs, siiipplying t stream is broad, an( to be a rapid one, northward. The names of ihi distinguishing them lake: namely, that north-west ll-low-ni west-south-west Tal* Poo-yet-tah fnrthei different kinds of lis that it was of grea eastward, called Ov our ship in the Sepli also abundance of fif Leaving the watei north-oaul side, call lummit, which we 1 see the high rugged i north-east by east. ourviewtoadistnnc to a8t;ertain the depti be formed by the se{ remnrkabh? ciape thai our way to the lonth ! had no difficulty in This was the placi the way open to the i had spoken of to us imagined, as it was n on this subject, Thf that (he opening at tl Hay, and (hat we mi we could find a passi mo suppose, as I havi f^ni ikrrow's strait. inlet, eince i( was (III TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. W33 with deep n.iow, dufing two hours, we at length descended on the lak^ which Ihey call Aw-wok-too-teak, and which will be found in the chart. This piece of water extends, according to its longest dimensions, from north-east by east to south-west by west, and, in this direction, appeared about four miles in length. In shape, it is very irregular, as it is bounded by five distinct hills, separated from each other by an equal number of ravines, which, during the thaw, arc water- cources, sispplying the lake. Where it empties itself, the issuing stream is broad, and appeared to be shallow; but its source seemed to be a rapid one, and its termination was in the sea to the northward. The names of these hills as given by the guide are as follow, distinguishing them l^y their true boarings, from the centre of the lake : namely, that to the west is called Pood-le-ra-nuk, to the north-west IMow-nuk, to the north-east Ac-cood-le-ruk-tuk, to the west-south-west Tak-ke-noo-ra-Iig, and to the south Il-low-na-lig. Poo-yet-tnh further informed me that the lake contained three different kinds of lish, which remain in it throughout the winter, lliat it was of great depth, and that in the smaller lake to the eastward, called ()w-weet-te-week, where the party that first saw our ship in the September of 1829, had been encamped, there was also abundance of fish of a large size. Leavirjg the waler-sido, we now ascended the high hill on the north-eaHt side, called Accood-Ie-ruk-tuk; and, on reaching its summit, which we had surmounted soon after ten o'clock, I could see the high rugged ice Oxtj \ esG SECOND VOYAGE OF DI8C0\'ERY We therefore pursued our journey, and arrived at the hiit m seven in the evening; being just in time to save ourselves from iho commencement of one of the most stormy nights we had ever «x perienccd. The wind blew during the whole of it, in the nioii violent gusts that can be imagined ; descending from the hills around with such squalls of driving snow, that they threatened as much to demolish our litlle structure as to overwhelm and bury us in a hill of their own making. This indeed they nearly did before the gale moderated : such was the aocumulatiun of snow that was blown up into deep ridges around and above our hut, which was, however, too strong and solid to give wnv to the force of the wind. We were afterwards surprised to find how very confined this storm was, since there was nothing more than a moderate breeze at the hki|), though only forty miles distant. May 2. — Having been well recruited by a night's rest, I had hopes of inducing Poo-yet-tah to make another excursion to the sea; but we had first to encounter the task of digging ourselven out of the snow. This occupied four hours, since it had attained a depth of six feet above us; and when we were at last freed, we found it still blowing hard, and the air filled with haze, and with snow drift from the surrounding hills. The appearant which it is endeavoured to quench : so that the natives prefer en- during the utmost extremity of this feeling, rather than attempt to remove it by the eating of snow. I am not sufficiently acquainted with medical philosophy to explain this, nor am I aware that it has been explained ; and it is, perhaps, as unfounded, as it is, in me, presuming, to suggest that the extreme cold of the material fhus swallowed, when the body is heated aud exhausted by fatigue, may bring on some intlammalory state of the stomach, so as to cause the suffering in question. i> : : 4I.- i-l._ r .1 4L- j„ 1l:„„. itUBiiluiiiQ uui' jusirii;;y at.:tt;33 tiir satic, \vu tuuiiu itic iruvcliiiig much improved by the late gales; and, soon after midnight, wc arrived at the hut, it was an exceeding the door with whic filled with snow, digging into it, tire hour, we contrived our bags at two in May 3.— When departing, the weati from the north ; w: and annoyance cans from the faces of tl labours of the prece rejoin the ship and our other shipmates We found the tra by far, was a space separated the next 1 cost us from nine in it without making I bring forward all On the lake, how winds had swept it at a run all the waj in our rear, which vt had been laid equall was still slippery, so of a few falls in the this nature. In the evening, b panded portion whi Edward Stanley ; a inlet called An-ne-i river, from the lake miles, while its greai of a mile. We hai salmon in the sumn this, in the remains places where the nai 'heir winter stock of We were now apj venture had occurre( of their feelings, or u •'"!' aijsencc, I vvas oould effect this ; th( TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. •iM arrived at the hut, truly exhausted by fatigue. In this condition, il was an exceeding mortification to find that a wolf had torn ofl ibe door with which we had secured its entrance, and that it was filled with snow. We were therefore compelled to commence digging into it, tired as we were ; when, after an hour's hard la- bour, we contrived to make it habitable for the night, and got into our bags at two in the morning. May 3. — When we awoke, and began to bethink ourselves of departing, the weather wAs very unsettled and blowing in squalls from the north ; while fresh falling snow added to the obscurity and annoyance caused by that which was drifting before the wind from the faces of the hills. The dogs too were so tired, by the labours of the preceding day, that nothing but irv Treat anxiety to rejoin the ship and relieve the probable fears -1 Cap-a Ross and our other shipmates, would have induced mc -o procae.i. We found the travelling extremely bad : b jf; t' e wors> part of it, by far, was a space of about a mile, crossing tu i high ■ Jge which separated the next lake from that which we hait jil. This alone cost us from nine in the morning until two ; nor did we accomplish il without making three separate trips with the sledge, so as to bring forward all our matters to the same point. On the lake, however, the ice was as smooth as glass, for the winds had swept it clean ; so that we crossed it very quickly, and at a run all the way, having the additional advantage of a breeze in our rear, which very much diminished our exertions. The river had been laid equally bare ; and, though comparatively rough, it was still slippery, so that we got over it easily, with the exception of a few falls in the snow holes which are generally found in ice of (bis nature. In the evening, by seven o'clock, we had arrived at that ex- panded portion which I had formerly namsd after the Rev. Edward Stanley ; and at nine reached the western point of the inlet called An-ne-re-ak-to. The whole length of the Stanley river, fi-om the lake to the sea, I thus found not to exceed ten miles, while its greatest breadth appeared to be about a quarte- of a mile. We had been informed that it abounded with fir salmon in the summer ; and we could now see the evidences of this, in the remains of huts scattered about its banks, being the places where the natives are accustomed io secure and conceal Iheir winter stock offish. We were now approaching the huts where our threatening ad- venture had occurred at our first setting out ; and being doubtful of their feelings, or uncertain of what might have occurred during •Hsr absence, ! was desirous of passing lliem unobserved, if I Lould effect this ; the more so, as we were now alone, and the 'mmmmmmmm. t40 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVEIIY absence of our guides might have been a »oiu'co of new sus- picions, or the cause of a renewal of hostility, Uut m bouh as we had reached the level ice of the bay, we saw Ib-lu-slie coming towards us, though evidently approaching with much caution, as if not quite secure of hi** reception. If thii« proved the existence of very different feelings from that of houtility, the fact that he was unarmed sufficed to remove all doublv, nnd I therefore greeted him in our usual kind manner, to Ihk iuiinite delight, Explaining then to him the proceedings and objects of the guides that we had left behind, the chief of whom wuH liiH brother, for whom he had at first expressed considerable anxiety, ho became quite satisfied, and went off' to communicate the news to his party at the huts. In no long time we gained sight of our uhip, after having now travelled eighteen hours, without rest or refre»hmunt. Unluckily, at this moment, one of the runners of tho sledge sank into a deep crack, and stuck so fast that we were unaltlo to extricate liit machine by all the force that we could apply. Wo were therefore obliged to throw off the load, which we did with much difficulty, as we were both seized with a giddiness that tlireutened fainting ; to have undergone which at this temperature, and with no aid at hand, would probably have been fatal to us. This, however, being effected, and our stores left behind, to be brought on the next day by our comrades of the ship, we got into the sludge, and arrived on board tl>e Victory at four in the morning of tho 'jth of May ex- ceedingly fatigued, but otherwise in good health. CHAPTER XXVI. Itepetltion of heavy Snow— Anothor ExpiMlition hy (lomiiijmtlfr UoM—Anothfi Ekpcdition uiidar iny own charge — Hummury ot (b« IVlo"lU til April. May 5. — It was colder on this day than on the preceding, and there was a fresh breeze. We were visited by u large pailydl natives frr i the northward, bringing sonie good skins foi wle There come afterwards from the westward, the two who had been Commander Uoss's guides on Ihe last journey : hut they hud not been abl« o bring in the other musk ox, and had not seen uny inOiT. On the following day, another parly caJne if Oai UiS SOl''" ward, bringing s <^e seal, and some skins; and, afterwards, an <>*d TC THE AIICTIC REGIONS. 24 ( man whom we had not seen before, but who was father «o two of (he boys whom we knew. His wife, it seemed, had left her last husband, of three, to live with him ; and, as far as we could make out, this was law, or usage equivalent to law. Tikatagin also ar nving, on his way southward, I engaged him to remain, that he might accompany me in^ lour on the following day. May 7— A heavy fall of snow rendered this journey impracti- cable : It would at least have been u.-eK-ss. The guide himself was much more pleased (o remair^ on board than to travel in such weather. li was equally useless to proceed the next day, as every thing was buried in snow ; but the guide went away by himself to letch his canoe. In (he evening we received a visit from the stranger old man, his wife, and two children. The wife was a vounr CUP ; but we found that he had another, while the two voudk men had hut one between them ; the whole party living together There was also an old woman with two husbands, uniting to form this strange polygamous family ; and we were assured ihat matters went on with perfect harmony, ^f course, it required more inti- macy than we had yet attained with these tribes, to understand thoroughly their system of matrimonial arrangements ; but what we thus already knew, suHiced to render it probable that the history which LiBsar has given of our British ancestors on this subject is not so untrue as it has been sometimes thought. ' May 9.— A northerly wind, as usual, brought the thermometer from zero up to 18". Sunday service being performed, the man who had gone for his canoe returned with the frame on his back having brought it from Shag-a-voke. lie was promis d a new hoop lor It, if he would bring us a seal; and, preferring to travel at night, set off at ten o'clock. A fox was taken in one of the traps. May 10.-— The weather ron(inuod cold; but when the snow ceased, it was dear. A pai ly went to the great lake to measure the ice, which they found (o be eight feet thick, and (he water seven- teen fathoms deep. They saw no lish, but baited .ind set some lines. The temperature continued again far lower than was to ho expected at this season ; giving us some disagreeable anticipations. Some natives brought a skin. The traces of reindeer and hares wore seen, and eight snow buntings killed. At the end of our base Ime, soundings were obtained in 1»0 fathoms May 12.— All the power of (he sun, with a clear sky, could not raise (he temperature bejwud II". No lish were found at the lines, but a ptarmigan was shot. Two of our chief friends among tlic natives arriving, arrangements were made for a new journey. -«?ne snOre came from the lioiiiji, on ihe following day, hut brought "o»hing; they went on to the northern huts; and, Tinding that this tfl 242 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Tl lie if parly was gone on an expedition, relurned to sleep on board, thermometer ranged between 1" aaid 15". ]V[tjy 14, — Nearly the whole of the northern party came to us, and brought the head and skin of the second musk ox ; but as it had lost the hind legs, it was spoiled as a specimen. They also brought the remaining quarter, or rather haunch, which weighed forty-three pounds, together with some skins, and a specimen of a greenstone chisel. Our only success in sporting was a single grouse. We had stipulated for a seal, for our dogs ; but they did not arrive on the next day : having probably been unsuccessful. Every thing was arranged for the contemplated journey on Monday. The fitting of the ship went on ; but the condensing tanks were now removed, asbeikig no longer necessary. May 16. — Church being held as usual, a large party came from the northward, and another from the southern village ; but they brougl' no seal, nor aught else. The last set informed us that they were to break up the next day, and to divide into two parties ; one for hunting the musk o\en, and the other for fishing in the lake. Each promised to bring us supplies before they took leave. The thermometer was about \0". May 17. — The men and the leading mate went on with the sledge and the boat, for the purpose of transporting them a stage of ten mile J, when the men who were not intended to proceed were to return. This they did in the evening ; on whicn, Commander Ross and the surgeon proceeded in the small sledge, to join the mate and the advanced party. No supplies arrived from the na- tives, nor did we see any of them. On the following day it became so much warmer that the thermometer rose to 30% and small pools of water appeared on tht> rocks, under the influence of the siin. The eye* of the men who had constituted the party of the last ex- pedition had been inflamed by their journey, and they were taken care of accordingly. May 19.— The surgeon returned, \ th the mate, from the detached party, which he had left about twenty miles off, under the care of two Esquimaux; bringing back their sledge and dogs, The mate's eyes re so much affected, that he could not proceed. They had purchased food for the dogs, from the Esquimaux ; and their stock of provisions was increased by the return of our two officers. Wo were pleased to find, on the following day, that tlio weather continued to favour their expcditicm. The different pa lionts were bolter, and we proceeded to lay gravel naind the ship and over the Kruseubtern. May 21 — The sun could not raise the iherinomeler beyond 10 , thick ; the ice of the lake iti«ll l.,.l.. ana On t;"i''B found covered with ice six inches 10 THE ARCTIC REGIONS. .,,-, b«ng seven feef and a half. The baits were untouched ; and oui- other search after g^rne was unsuccessful. On the following Z we ftscertamed that the ice near us had not increased in thickness (liough there were four inches formed in the hole. The Mack of .^ musk ox was seen on che ice not far from us. \ summer t<^.t was made, and some saiis repaired. May 23.— This Sunday was the anniversary of our departure from Eng and. The musk ox furnished „s with fresh boileS and roast meat for the whole crew. U had no more taste of mu'k than .h! ' ' ^T\ ^^'u^ ^r •'^"Ser kept, was more teuder. During the.r walk after church,, the men tracked a while ear, as wel 4 some hares and grouse I„ the evening, Ikmallik. the geographer lenuoa of attendmg Commander Ross on his expeditiin, and wire much d.sappomted to faid that he had been so long gone I* a'! Tvr We'^'' ?'' miscalculated the day, eountin'g ?en Instead '^f hve. We therefore engaged them to follow or mee him wi:h pro- visions, w.th.n a week; at which the- were much pleased. We a so Z7J ^.t' 'r'" 't'^™' '' ""'' ««« *«••« «» absent, in case we should meet the bear ihat had been marked. They had been u^ successful m seal hunting, but had discovered some holes! andlled hm;tly to bring us an a.imal for the dogs. Each ^f theTn received a f-.h-hook as a present ; and the wife a pincushion One of the men gave proof of his parental affection, by giving his stock- Efooted "Z.:"' '-' '''^'^'' ""« « ^-^ ^'--tc^nd toing JVIay 24._The canvas roof was to-day taken off as f^r as the Diu iT n ft "; '" •""' ?' '"'^"'8'''' ""' ^i'^n-ometer was kt P u. II . Hoth days were cleir and fine : the m^rU went on • a pta. .n,ga„ was killed and the tracks of deer and wolves seen. We n d a r„,,t ^o conclude that the former wer. migrating to th. noru' will the.r enemies hanging on their rear. It was the highest tide we had yet witnessed ; rising to nearly eight feet May 2«.-The first fog we had seen this year came on this mornmg, and was followed by . fine day, the t him ome^r .^ach- ing ^.» I ho snow was reported to be ineltina fast • and n l.nl« being cut in the ice, in a pla'co which had heenM^gi^-dly l.S rJ . 'f- ^^^ «e'"P««ature continued rising o„ ,he following day, yet slowly; and the mean, being the highest we had •"•rent running a milo an hour to the eastward, will. ...n r...i.....„ »ai«r, which was tesi salt than that near the ship. i" ^ fortimaiU 10" ., r. I, iii SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY of daer continued lo tantalize us : it was diflicuU to guess how they contrived to pass in this manner, so long, without being seen. May 28. — The weather became so much warmer as to ave rage 25", rising to near the freezing point. I ascertained, from a measured base, that the height of the highest hill near us was 400 feet : that of the island close to us was forty. 1 obtained five sets of lunar distances, and made some trials with the dippinj^ needle. A brace of ptarmigans was killed. The thermometer rose next day to 34", and I obtained more lunar distances : pre- paring also for ny intended journey on Monday. May 30. — After divine service, we wailed in vain for our pro raised guides, v\ hose appointment had been fixed for this day. I knew that it would take a longer time to convey the provisions to the appointed place without their assistance, and thertiiore de termined to go by ourselves, in advance. The sledge was there fore loaded with five days' provisions for Commander Ross's party, and eight for my own, with the addition of a summer tent; and 1 departed at seven, with the surgeon, two mates, and one of the lire teasers. An additional party was taken to draw our sledgo ten mil'--, when they returned; leaving us at one in (he morning. Tiiat I may not interrupt the narrative of this journey, I shall here give the summary of the present month. The anxiety which r<»turally attended Commander Uoss's ab- sence during the expedition which he had undertaken, terminaU'd in congratulations on account of his safety and success. His guide had conducted him to the narrow channel leading between (lie two seas, and he had determined its latitude to be such us to give forty-live miles to the north of our position ; being in one of thoso inleli) which could not be explored, on account of the ice, situated a little to the northward of F''lizabeth harbour. Hence it was pro- bable that Cape IManson would be found to form the north-east point of America, supposing the sea to be continuous to Cape Turn •gain. The exploring of the coast to the northward of Pad-le-ak bov, together with that to the westward of it, had further been the work of the same oOicer, as had Ne'tchillee. In his journal, will be found what I need not here repeat, lespecting the cotnrm'tncemeiil of this expedition, and the little obstruotious which i; experienced at the outset. And if i need not notice these and some other natters relating lo tho oudit, so is it unnecessary lo give any ■ummary of our transactions with tho natives, during this month, since they included nothing important in addition to the delaiU already given. " il4> lLu3, -The tteatber was foggy during the jOHrnev of this «ay, .0 that i opt.:.e.i no good viewsif any part of the land exceo auK=k resem..:r. the |3ass island oflf the Firth of FoJth We ^aw -u.r gt^lls a ,d aa owl; and proceeded along a rooky coast t! th^ .ou,h-wesjward, skirled with large islands, v!ry ...Xresem- bhng .mne ul the shores of Sweden, between Goiunburg and Stromstad. We passed within them all, in a clear channel, wide enongh for large ships, and clear of icebergs. At seven „ he mornmg we arr.ved at the huts, seventeen miles from ou. vessd all tak.ng an equal sharef officers and men, in the heavy work o bfe"as"^l.' ^n'^'' "''"!'^ ['' '^'' '««' ''-''""-' wasconTdera ble, as the snow was m.d-leg deep. The men were much fa- JtPd ;? ^^%'"«^«' ^'^"•'y. could go no further. But having f (! n n/l'" l' '""''' '^'"^ '""^''^ •'•^y '^^'^ «"«»>led to proceed m.r Ihip ^ ' ''"'""'"^ '^'' '•"'«' '' '^«"ty-two mile'^ from Accordingly, at eight, we set forward; and, the fog having cleared away, I obtained some views of the laLd. We arrived us with water, but had no meat remaining. As we calculated on fablZ""'T ^ ' ^«- ""'- '■-'»- at least, to a st ou labours, we p.tchcd our tent to make our meal, being breakfa" anddmnerconjomed. We soon, however, discovered that lie were gomg immediately i„ the same direction as oursdve . an. were thus to be so heavily laden that they could give us „ 'assis fancejMnce.t would lake themselves two days to get t, "■ «l plane at which they could expect food. They deparVed at Zy, « one o c lork. I procured some observalions a. noon, <' - .mining Urn lat.lt.de, among , ..,, thb^ . m OH :,!». «n.; , , 5,»,!» .*! At Ave, an o >. »neof01dG riy feet above the level of the sea ; following the bed of the river to it, as that was still frozen over. It was only three- quarters of a mile wide, and about two hundred yards in breadth ; being surrounded by precipitous cliffs. Following up- wardu from it, we came to another of similar dimensions, a hundred feel higher, which discharges itself into the one below. Thence proceeding in 'he same direction till we had attained thirty feel more of elevation, we descended about ninety feet to the «oa of the gulf of Shag-a-voke, and about seven miles from its entrance. Hy means of a seal-hole, we fotirfd the water to be salt, and crossed (liin part of the bay near an island where the natives deposit their canooHund winter stores. The land here changed its character, though the rocks were the same; the whole surface being covered with fragments of granite and limestone, and thus presenting a raodt dreary and barren appearance. Reaching the land, we stilt punned a south-westerly direction, up the channel of a river, and about a mile onwards, at an elevation of about fifty feet; and at length arrived at a small lake, part of which wascovored, above the ice, by water. Here we met the old woman returning with her dogs, having deposited her load. On being questioned about the axe, she confesMd that she was of the party that had stolen it, and that it "5i in poriHi-nniuu ol iwo of the men at the eastern huts. Having passed this lake, we then held our way over another of 846 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY the same size aud aspect, bounded by lower land, which was, how ever, equally covered by huge blocks of stone, some of.them in verv hnta«tic shapes. This was about twenty feet higher than the tormerj and, following the windings of the hills lor a mile we came to the north-eastern end of the great lake, which seemed eleven or twelve miles in length. We soon found the huts of the fcsqu.maux who had left us on the preceding day for the purpose of coramg here to fish: they were still built of snow, as before, but were now covered with skins. The people denied all knowledge ot t he axe, and said it was in possession of the old woman Pio- ceedmg on the lake, after this, we found a ridge of icebergs on i( differing much in aspect from those of the sea: but here we wore obliged to stop for rest and refreshment, some of the party beiiiR much latigued. '^ •' '^ We set forward again at half-past live, and, soon after eight arrived at an island in the middle of the lake. The men, however were so much tired, from the sinking of the sledge into the soit snow-, that we were obliged to stop ; lighting our lire and cooking our dinner, without pitching our tent. The time required in melt- ing snow for drink, detained us so long, that we did not move again till ten clock ; the weather being clear, with a gentle breeze. We eaw some reindeer, as we had done at our first resting-place on the day before, but had no opportunity of liring at Ihem, from the distance at which they passed us. Hy midnight, ue had reached the end ol the lake, not without much labour, as the way was very We now travelled south-eastward for a mile, and gained what we judged the higiiest elevation on our track, which 1 conjectured to be three hundred feet above the level of the sea. Theroe we •oon came to a narrow lake tending in the same direction, .vhich brought us in sight of the western sea at Padliak, arriving at it after a descent of a mile. Here we fortnj one of the Esquimaux packing up to proceed to the summer huts about two aiiies off. I halted to take angles and make observations, while I also measured the height of the lake above the level of the sea: thus, too, allowing the men that rest, of which they were much in need. The land about this bay was very rugged, and generally bare of snow; while nu- merous stones were set up in several places, as if to represent men; Ollen presenting very grotesque resemblances. Thus for we had followed the marks of Commander Hoss's sledge Of this we were sure, knowing that, as the natives had none ol their own, having eaten those which were made of lisb, and having used the bones of the others to make rafters for their tents. These sledge marks, however, now turned off to. the nnvtU S^cstward, towards the cape forming (he noi thern boundary of this liUle to Ihc south TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. «^,j bay : but it was our business to steer eastward for the island where we had agreed tp deposit the provisions, and which was visible about three miles off. In our way, we met two of our Esquimaux Inends, going in the opposite direction, with three dogs drawing a skin; and, bemg much tired, I offered them a knife if they would assist us with their animals and show as where to catch fish This being agreed to, we proceeded to arrange matters, when I found that, among others things, the skin bag contained a fine haunch of venison, which we purchased for a file, without diflicultv Hungry men soon revive, even at the prospe^^t of a good dinner; and, in ball an hour, we were at the appointed island. It was a verysjnall islet, about two hundred feet long, and of half that breadtn; being a mile from the shore where the native houses were built. We loimd It to consist of granite, covered with fragments of limestone, and with large blocks of both kinds of rock ; but were better pleased at its offering a very convenient place for our tent which was pitdied without delay. The employment of cooking our venison furnished us with those pleasures of anticipation which hey alone fee , who have no fears of any sinister chances between he cup and the lip;" while it was satisfactory to find that the seller, with his file seemed fully as happy as we who were regaling on the dmner which it had furnished. We were informed that (^ommander Ross had gone toward the north; and they drew, on the ice, the shape of the land to the northward of the cape, called by them, Kingaruick ; which I copied, noting all their names of places. This cape had been previously named Isabella, by Commander Ross. The man, Tiagashu, an old riend soon came, and gave us permission to fish in the hole that he had made in the ice, about two hundred yards from us. Another of them went off m the night, and made another hole, which I bought from him for two books: and here we afterwards caught (wo dozen of small lish, supposed to be cod, in three fathoms water; the native name being Irriktu. This was named Spence uay, in compliment to my relation of that name. June 2.— We allowed our people to sleep till six in the morning, t-xcept rayselt, every one was suffering from sore eyes, and thev were tnerefore kept within the tent; while my work was to fish, cook, draw, and make observations. Our dinner being of fish soup, was an acceptable novelty, since we had not seen such fare lor many months The weather was warm enough to melt snow, on the rocks, for drinking, without the labour of artificial thawing 1 here made .'^•aie observatior:, on the dip of the magnetic needle.' J Ins bay ,s ten m.los wide "lis part, and is full of small islets, ■lecin ^ue morning „ ,...iy ai lived and pitched their tents a liUle to the south of us; promising to bring us fish, in which, how- f '• 230 SECOND VOYAGE OF UISCOVEKY ever they disappointed us, having been unsuccessful. In the even .ng I repeated the observations on the dip of the magnetic needle and the intensity of ,. ((./.> ' The 3d of Ju'„: war. a ..17 fine day, and we were employed in fishmg. W ^^UJ. n; . u-: en of fish ; which were carelessly den,, Ivn.'" T'T '"'l''^?'^ ^^^'^ ^y ^hich they were, very natura ly. devoured Iwo of the men were unable to see at all, from & effect of the snow. The chief mate was better. The tide. In a ho lurnished with a measuring line, rose only fourteen inches; and wo remarked that we caught no fish r ; -.g the bright Lnslj;; It IS to be suspected, that in lh.se frozen seas and lakes, they are in ^ torpid state during the extreme cold : and that they are roused like the dormouse, on the occasional occurrence of heat. 1 he men being blind for the present, from the effects of infi'^m- r>- loa, and the native not having brought the promised dogs. I W.S compelled to remain. I caused a hole to be made in the ice and found it seven feet and a quarter thick; being very nearly' what It was at the ship when we came away : but there being on! s|x fee water in depth, we had a proof of the great irregularity he bottom. There was nothing left for me to do during this .Ir tention, except to make observations and catch fish; but the oc currence of gloomy weather was e jually hostile to both. June 4.— I went with the ,urgeon to the tents, and fou. .: .!iat the natives had been unsuccessful in their seal hunting, orfishinjf which hsf IS perhaps the more appropriate term. One of them entreated rnc, with tears, to tdl him where he should find on,- how were the) to suppose that men so superior to themselves in a hundred thmgs, did not know whatever concerned them most ? I pointed to a place at hazard, ^hat I might give them hope, at lea to occupy their time and .lay «heir hunger but it was not a vcrv prolound jest, to say that they would certainly take some if the would wait till ' ? animal ; came. ^ We now lean. .1 that the breacii of engagement, by another im tive, respecting a dog, arose from the circumstance of the animal having been bitten by » glutton : and the lamen^-ss of the creature proved this to be L ue. Finding, hov.*^ver, that luey had iwo otlwr dogs. It was agreed that we should have (hem harne«',cd to ly sledge, with a guide, to proceed to N -hillee. This too ^ould be advantageous to the ailing m-n, wi.o would thus have a longer rest, and might be well enc to ,' lurn to the ship by the lime I had finished my short expe.' u. he surgeon was well eoougli to go with me, but I t:iought igh. ■ leave him, to fake care of th>i rest. We set out accordingly, at seven o'clock, accompanied by aiwilher native, who was to deposit some Wubber at Neitchillee. "Protoed- TO THE AHCTIC REGIONS. ^bt ing .0 ll.e southward, w« passed (he mouth of a river named Ke teoaia and ah.o Iwo «(alioD« called Owhyahriu and Oaheushiek 8.x miles f„r her, wo came to a line clear spring of wate, called Am.t.oke riHmg through «and, and much waVmeftha^ the thawed j«ow ofcour.e; .yhilc we found that it had consideraWy over llo.ed the .urroundmg land during the winter : a sufficient proof "I "H b.gh temperature, which, unluckily, I had no means of ZTZr-f ."f •"« ^^"^ "•« "^«'- '» ^hich we now were the S Z;d ?o oil f/T''" '^"''?'"''' "'**^'- '^'Sh land, whence dirSion! ^ . ' ^°""''' '"'^'"8, after this, a south-west Proct.,ding now down the Amitioke. which was still frozen and a hundred yards w.do. we arrived at its entrance into the Slake ol rSeUchiilee ; beyond which, at the distance of Lalf a mile L the .•x,t of the nver that leave* this lake; the cou..e of which w; could race ma south-east direction, as far as the eye co^ld discern a„v f' .^" '^'' T' 'i' '''«'•« ^^«« « P'«in ; hit on the eastern one i runuZk.""'' "'' ''' '"" •"^"•'^^'^ mountains of SS:: \A?\ZZ ^t"'''"'" '•«'l"'»"y S'^«" l« ^»'« l«n^. the river, the £:Z f" 'i"T' "'* ""'«™«nts, of the natives There ;ere trios ofl » „«: fa ^^'^ ?""".""' ''«"'««' ««»'« of ^hich had irfilos 01 8u 8 nearly three feet high, forming a group of thirtv . largest ol ^' .«e wa«an oval of fourteen feft by twSve The ll.e Il^tn'^Si";;; ^^^ ^'^ "°"'^"^'*«^ - Either, to ascend Je.n£XrJp^^ • i to (he joy of ihe gaid,, »ho w.. afraid it mi.ht have c«r3 „«!l, r!?' . ' ""'' ■' "■"«' extensile view. The teimi- 1 1 r„v"S'''tr" "'"'^^ '''^°-''' "Moward "he »u^^^ rll ''°»,'"''» ^'"1 "".l II wa» bounded by Hal land on each side n *l„eh I eonid eouni Imndred. of reindeer. To Ihe northward' In it ^"'r ° r '7 '7 ' '<■"» »P»™ '«-■'■■* i°» «o™ "! Ilii .„ '*',»"">!l|t III" di.lanl moimlains. The land in Ihat «""/ r„! '' °'.'«'" '■""no, formed . caseade, whieh. pre- :Cw:;lri::'l;:V?:'T!'«'''^ r"-'- -neide, i„.,ea5 of v».o„n,e.. mj * ;^iiv;;;^s::^;„„^;^-"" °' "■« I 1 'I 2b'i SECOND VOYAGE OF DI8C0VERV Al'tci- descending, I nieasnied the breadth of the river oppoMip to the huts, and found it to be two hundred feet, with a depth ol thirty. I was informed that there were many rapids and waloi falls between the lake and (he eastern sea, and that a canoe coiiltl not ascend. The guide said that there was also a river at the other end, which, he believed, was not navigable, and which ran into the western sea : but that it was very far off. The alternate effpct of the sunshine and the cold on the 'face and hands, blistered (ho skin while I was here employed in sketching the land. Having linally taken a meridian observation, I quitted Neitchillee at ow, o'clock. Wo saw many cranes and plovers ; but having unfortunately lost luy slock of percussion caps after shooting a snipe, I could lire no more; to the great surprise of the natives, to whom I could only excuse myself by pretending snow blindness; not wishing them to suppose that our lii e-arms could ever be disabled or useless. Tliis loss proved still more vexatious on the passage of a doe and hei fawn, which came williin twenty yards of the sledge; at the sight of which temptadon, greater perhaps to them than even to a deer- stalker of my own counfry, they encouraged me to lire, with loud vociferations. This, unforlunately, was impossible ; and the dogs breaking the restraint in which they were held, set off in chace, with the sledge at their heels, but were soon stopped by its becoming entangled among il.e stones. Having arrived at our tent at five o'clock, the guide was paid; on which he departed, after being informed that we would call on them in our way homewards. It was satisfactory to find that the people were nearly recovered, and that we had still provisions until Sunday. Another note for Commander Ross was now depo- sited under a cairn which we erected : informing the natives that it was a mark for the ship, which would hereafter be useful io them as well as to ourselves, and receiving their promise not to pull it down. At nine o'clock we struck our lent in a thick fog; and, departing at eleven, called at the huts according to promise. We found two pairs of the inmates, each a man and his wife, in their respective beds, with a trough of boiled fish and oil between them, on whicli they were feeding, much like swine, their faces and hands being bedaubed with this odorous compound. Another native then ar- rived with a seal : and as it was he whom I had directed where (o find those animals, he seemed to think that I should claim a share. but was soon relieved of this feai- by my refusal, which produced vociferous thanks. To turn thia gratitude to some acconnt, I desired him to deliver ft note to Conamander Koss, which I accordingly wrote; infornning TO THE ARCTIC HEOrONS. •iriJI 1.11.1, lor the third lime, of the place of the ..revisions left for hint and .)! other matters- promisinj? also to the Esquimaux, that the .lehvery ol ihis leKci wonlJ he rewarded i)v a lish-hook. We then parted, on the must friendly terms, alter 'l had presented each of the women wilh a sixpence to hang round their necks; one of them giving us a complimentary convoy along shore, for about two miles We had here found the native who had been ill of a sore 'hroit some months before ; and the phial of medidne he had received was lianKing Irom his neck, surrounded by oilier ornaments It did not soem to have been opened, and had probably been kept as a jharm. la return lor it seeing that the surgeon was sufTering from toothach and swelled lace, he proceeded instantly to his own .node of cure, by tapping the cheek (h.ee times, and blowing as ollen m the patient's face. That the doctor shortly .-ecovered is certain ; and i .t was by means of the charm, it is not the lirst time that toothach has been cured in the same manner. June S.—The men being now quite .ecovered, we continued our journey w.lh spirit .n hne and clear wea^he,-. At seven, we reached the north-east end of the great lake called Teijgriak, and pitched our tent ; the sun he.ng very powerful at eight o'clock in the morning Our bieakfas was called supper, because we had inverted th^ usual order of things by going to bed at nine. The snow had been deep as we came but it was now just enough frozen at the surface to pi-event our light sledge from bieaking through it. This great lake, which is ten miles long, appears to be only a m.e wide m some places, because it includes a chain of islands- but, in other parts, it seems three or four miles in breadth, and ,naJ mdeed be u.ore The icebe.gs on it had probably been colIeSed .nto the ndge wh.ch crossed from side to side, by the storms n the early part of the winter. The ilattisb lands round it were s(iM much covered by snow. « ci t, sun We departed once more, at seven in the afternoon, having made what was termed our breakfast : the weather being fine and clear Having crossed two lakes, we arrived at the gnlf of Shag-a-voke wh.ch .s the upper end of an arm of the eastern sea, extending mward about e.ght miles. Thus the isthmus is reduced to seven- teen or eighteen miles in bieadth; while twelve of these a.e fresh water : so that^ there are in reality but five miles of land between lae eastern and tlie western seas. As the gull, inlets, and strait of Shag--voke had not yet been regularly exammed, I now changed our .ourse to the south-east ward; and, after travelling two miles throusi. a very S 'ot we cau»e to the strait which separates the gulf, or uppL paf t, from the sound. Here, on each side. »he.n »..» ,..^^\^-.^^...c^J,'. hundred lee, hi«fc, .he g..erai breadrhji'.ting rh^-'^aT,: yM. m SECOND VOYAGE OF DIHCOVERY of a mile; while a flat boggy tract, under the northern ohff re duces the breadth of the water, in that part, to lew than two lu.n dred feet. "" June 6.— We could not make this Sunday a day of rest; and I contmued ray examination of this inlet. About (ho middle, it was half a mile wide, and bounded by high raountaina. Our proirres, was rendered very tedious and laborious by the depth of the snow '"'•^if T.K T'f ''^^*f^^'^'""'* stroit, which separates the middle ot (he rn let from the lower part, or bay, till three o'clock A point of land here projecting from the north »idc, seems to block out the sea; looking like an island, but connected with the shore U an isthmus, and leaving the breadth of the water, in this place, abou a hundred feet. There were many rocks in the middle of it : and the ice being now partially broken up, the tide wa» running up at the rate of lour miles an hour; while we calculated, from the old high water-mark, that it would still flow for two hours. This would be five o clock, and it was the day of full moon Below (his peninsula, ihe channel of (hii itrait bends to (he southward, and a part of it runs into a gulf formed by a second peninsula resembling (he hrst, but projecting at vaiious points, so as to produce a very intrica(o passage. At thi» division of (he water, there is a reel of large stones, resembling o mill-dam, bein. placed diagonally, and probably a work of (ho ntt(ive» for the pur- pose of directing the water (o (hesou(hern «horo, where ((,« prin- cipal <^«nnel lies, while, on ihe opposite «ide, (hat forms a spa- cious bay backed by high land. The is(hmu» wa. covered wilh circles ol s(ones, being (h? remains of native houKim; and we saw a lingular square mound, smooth and covered with vegetation, re- sembling the two faces of a bastion, which proved, on examina(ion, (0 be an alluvium deposited at tlie meeting of two streams. How olten such deposits have been mistaken for Koman and other en- catiipments, in our own country, k well known. The f^reat inlet near this place measured about two thousand feet at the narrowest part; and from (his posidci, wo naw (he endance of (he bay, (hree nules off, boiug (he oiKer part of Shng-a-voke Ihc north Hide of (his opening descended gradually (o a low point projecdng eastward; the southern one continuing four miles more m the same direction, and then trending to the »ou(h-ea»t This side appeared clear of rocks and i8lc(s; bu( olFthe other, (here was a rock, very remarkable which, with (wo o(hor ..lands, wore namoJ af(er my friend, T. Tilson, Ks.,., and hi. d«Mgh(cr., as seen in the pla(e; while, furd.er nor(h, there were three isle(s, (akinK an easterly dirocdon, which seem nearly joined to (he main at low water. We arrived a((he soi.(hernmos( of these iilandu a( seven in the morning; and at tl rendered travelling the night ; whence of rest and sl^ep. men allowed to res (ions for the latitti lude to a future < nometer had nrjet v migans were killed, At five in the a with our package, t of the journey was sledge over hummo at every step, and o This piece occupiec very clear, and sno June 7— At half we hoisted our colo resuming our journ well, making a dra\ giving it the name lilaiy to the crest ol flag flying, and thu sent io search of us Thom, who, fearing some to be deposite found them. We linving husbanded ( saw, about the pro iiierouh seals in the At seven, we arri Jays and found evei 1)11' juslice to (ho mi utmost, they deserve of obedience and se •hank no spirits, an (lamed eyes, I reprc; (liereforo proposed showing further that parly, I bore fatigue 'fl(ioH in acquiescing pflndently of (he sun always considered (li •'I •night back a!! of ihi •lay. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. morning; and at this time the action of the sun nn *».„ rendered travelling very difficult : the proper tiL I reZ^h ^'^ (be n.ght ; whence our inversion of day and n 2 for thJj' ""^ rnotedtLtJid^rUne^r^^"^^ tions for the latitude, bu^alt'^C?^^^^^^^^^^ tude to a future compar son with the shin'« ,.uZ ,^ nometer had met with'an accident A ha e^nd a bra'ce ?f ' '™- of the journey wU very severe as le wp J k '!!"' '" '^'' P**"' -sledge iver hummocky L for eight mles inking' /' '"r '''^ well, making a drawing of that rock which relemblesl^. R "'"l gmngitthe name ofAdoIphus narvmulp r!nT Jf ? ?.^''' ^"^ 1.^.7 to the crest of that family. Two mU; A.rH i-"*^'^' '"°'- % flying, and thus knew thL ap^r^lZ^^^^^^^^^^ ' sent m search of us Arrivinir n« w ^ "-om the ship had been Tho™, Who, fe.ri„; ,h'::e°L° ,";:„ ';ri.* jn'r ":; some to be denositpd m » ..la..- • ,. "\P'^"^"*'on8, had caused ro.»d „,e„,. ^"r .: nVt;prxt:er;'"i'~"'^°«'' of obedience and self devolednem A. I V., .? "'"""'"' """pl^y ;]«vn„ ,pinu, ,„d wri„r „„t ':r w,:tr° "'•'• "cJ e,e., I re,,re,en,ed Ih.t ,l,e ,.,oXrw* H, .1, '°. diereforo proposed Dial llicv ■li...,J.l / ^ "*"'"" ™">e. and mi, I l.or. faliKue ..ellc,- lll.an 1 of I ™ Trow::' "', "" 'aiton in aniuiescinir • and ihn ,„„.., , ' "♦"^e * «s no hwi. r^deaiiy „,'„,„"Z;.:i;l' : jnV'LThir^r- '\'- al.™,. oo„.id.,rnd ,l,i, M,e ehief par "l heir" „t'' T? ''"' mought bark all afti'- - i- -l -> • - _ ' ""PP'-f^' Thus we day. " "'^'' "^""^ "*" "*** "een consumed ihe first 2,10 SECOND VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY It is difficult to persuade men, even though they should not be habitual drinkers of spirits, that the use of these liquors is debi- litating instead of the reverse. The immediate stimulus gives a temporary courage, and its effect is mistaken lor an infusion ol new strength. But the slightest attention will show how exaclK the result is the reverse. It is sufficient to give men, under hard and steady labour, a draught of the usual grog, or a dram, fn perceive, that, often in a few minutes, they become languid, and, as they generally term it, faint , losing their strength, in reality, while they attribute that to the continuance of the fatiguing exer- tions. He who will make the corresponding experiments on two equal boats' crews, rowing in a heavy sea, will soon be convinced that the water drinkers will far outdo the others : while no bettor testimony to this is required than the experience of tM men who work in the iron foundries. That is the hardest work wliicli falls to a man to do : and so well do the labourers in this de- partment know that they cannot perform it, if they drink even beer. that their sole beverage durfbg all the hours of this hot and heavj labour, is water. If London draymen and coalheavera are of ii dilTerent opiffion, every one knows the result ; as the self- indulgmei' which leads to this luxurious and profligate practice is not le«i> known. It is not that I am declaring myself an advocate for tempeianic societies, whatever may f)e llieir advantages, nor that I am de- sirous of copying a practice lately introduced into some sliips, under wli^Uever motives : but were it in my power, as coni- mauding a vessel, I would exclude the use of grog, on tiie niore grounds of its debilitating effects, and independently of any ultrrim injury which it may do : reserving it for those cases alone in which its use may l»e deemed medicinal, or, for any special rea>-ons, useful. Such is the account of (his journey : but as it contains no regisle of the proceedings at the ship for so many days, I must resunu; (lini ODcemorc from the 1st of June, the records having been made, in my absence, by I\Ir. Thorn. Proceedings in the iih acquired ilieir TO TriE ARCTIC REGIONS. S67 CHAPTER XXVIII. ProceedingB in the .hip fom .he Fim of June. 1830-Com.nan..er RosVs Return The (her- JiiNE 1.— The men were at work at the leeboard^ mometerat 27", with a fog. 'eeboaids. Oil the following day the caulking proceeded md th. a a (liprmomcter was JfT" at iiiidniLrhf ti.« '■*"" «eparted. J he I™ i'r IS,'"' P'"P»se »' l«i- «» dial w., concerned. *" S„ "il M.e';';:.,.:';:f\t:t'!;:i"-"-"«-' "->• --< ■'■• . kZ" l".l •'" °'';''"°" 1° "'" f""'"' "f '""• """■■■ work, wo cm *cqu.r^ tbcr summer plumat^e «„d coaling. Th. ..r b.r«m« 258 SECOND VOYAOE OK DISCOVERY more and more covered with wale" daily ; though the tbermo- meter had rather sunk for the las* 'i.i-ee days. June 12. — The canvass roof was entirely removed this day, and a summer awning spread. It was cloudy ; and the first rain of this season fell in the evening. The torrents were seen running down the hills, and numbers of ducks and brent geese made, their ap- pearance for the first time. The several kinds of animals, I need scarcely now say, form a calendar of the year in this country, as the llowering of plants does in our own ; where the migrations ot birds, if I except the swallow, nightingale, and cuckoo, are litt!*; noticed in comparison. June 1 3. — On Sunday, a heavy fall of snow came on, e&rly in the morning; and, lasting till niglit, the ground was once more covered. At eight p. m., Commander Ross and his parly returned, all in good liealth. They had travelled along the coast that led westward, a hundred miles west of Neitchillee; establishing the continuity of the continent as far as the 99" of longitude, and in latitude 70 ; bciiij/ about a hundred and fifty miles to the westward of our present position. They had also travelled along the coast about twenty miles to the westward, north of tjie inlet which enters on the west- ward of the isthmus. In returning, they found that my deposit of provisions for liicm had been partly eaten and partly destroyed by the natives; but they still found as much as they required, visiting (he south-west river of iVeilchillee before returning homeward. The country which they traversed was barren, and formed of lime- stone; they saw no deer nor any other animal except the willow partridge. But they found that the ice in the small lakes at Padliak had given way, and that the same was the case in the bay of Shag- a-voke. i must however now, as I liave done before, refer to Coramaader Ross's own narrative. CHAPTER XXIX. ('ominamler Rom'h Narrative. Ma\ 17. — On the present expedition I was accompanied by Mr !Vlacdiarmid as far as (arnham's Valley : (he object of his attendance being (ho( I might point out to him a spot to which provisionii migiii be carried to await us on our n'tnrn. I'oliowing t'^ie track ^».^l' To THE ARCTIC REGIONS. . 259 l."'l been so affecVd bv^rals oo„ :LT T^ '^'' *'^" '^'^''"^ were obliged (o carry him ."'^^^le boatl r'' ''"?k'"'' "'^^ ^'^^ '^^^ do (his; Ihe additional o^dth, n^^^^^ «o of one hand out of thel mall numhpn r ' '"^"'^'"' ^''^ '^' '««« making «ny further progress Some 'f ^h""^ ^''"'''''^ '''^'" '"^o*" from inflammation of T^L Z r i m*""" ^'''" ^'«« ^^^^''ing ticular, was espeLliy affected ''^ "'"^'' '''«--'« «'anky, i„ par? «dK^~^ra7rLZ^^^^^^ P--^"' at noon, that, resume *»- plan W t^at^r ^^ ^ '• iTtZ ^^^^ '"^^'^^''^^ (l.« present day's journey at three in /iJV^'^''^ commenced wnnm soft that 4 were Up T! '» the afternoon ; but the snow whence Blanky' Tncrlased inHammlr '" ''''^'"« Too-nood-leed, cmling for Jo or thr^e ho s CaTCH^' ^ '^"" P^^" ^olfavohim behind under the ca^ofthefi^^^^^^^^^ convenient such a loss was to our small nar,^' ^'°'^®''^'' "»" to procure a sledKe from .hi F««^ P 'y- ^' '' ^as also easy 4> Thus «l«o wl^tt ttdy^r; ^nlLr[7c''" '^^V^ '^« goon to the intended spot- since UwL n! ^^'P "'* '''« «"'- return with a man whose fuure e v^cp^'''"'^^' ^' '^'^^'^ l-ard, and hence, unable no vtrSa^orthe T '" vmions which we had intended to make at P^H T L I'P^^ ""^ P*""" il«l«r„i„„, L proceeded „rl,?'' ?f P™^'^""' '■> ease of 'iglit dog n a ,e'™"i fe,lL "1"''',' ""'' "'°"«'' "'»i»"»l by ' '••«"'i''''^^2^^J:::^::^:i:'^'^'^-r i«.l.i.men(. and dolhes, and a ,ki„ 6^« P™"'^'""'. b^"!" "•«"; Mflrtly devou ej L itVnn '^'.r' '*""« «''«••' ^''^ ani™al a Mreoe afternoon fdlow-i-'a; ,''''" "" '=""""F«« 'or rest. But ernoon tallowed ; and, recommeacing our exertions at !7« 2(i0 SECOND VOYAGE OF D18C0VEUY six ill the evening, we arrived in sight of the sea at eleven o'ctocL Here, a view from the hill on our right enabled me to determine our future route ; and hence I could discern the low land of the opposite shore, stretching across the bay from Nei-tyel-le to within lifteen or twenty degrees of Cape Isabella. To this cape I then determined to proceed, because I could there obtain a more com- manding view of the inlet, on account of its greater elevation. The party which I had thus quitted for a sho't time, had an- nounced their arrival on the shores of the western sea by three cheers: it was to me, as well as to them, and still more indeed to the leader than to his followers, a moment of interest well deserv- ing the usual " hail" of a seaman; for it was the ocean that we had pursued, the object of our hopes and exertions; the free space which, as we once had hoped, was to have carried us round the American continent, which ought to have given us the triumph for which we and all our predecessors had laboured io long and so hard. It would have done all this, had not nature forbiddeu; it might have done all this had our chain of lakes been an inlet, had this valley formed a free communication between the eastern and western seas; but we had at least ascertained the impossibility; the desired sea was at our feet, we were soon to be travelling along its surface; and, in our final disappointment, we had at least the consolation of having removed all doubts and quenched all anxiety, of feeling that where God had said No, it was for man to submit, and to be thankful for what had been granted. It was a solemn moment, never to be forgotten; and never was the cheering ot a seaman so impressive, breaking as it did on the stillness of the night, amid this dreary waste of ice and snow, where there was not an object to remind us of life, and not a sound seemed ever to have been heard. At midnight we proceeded over the level of the sea ice, and, passing some hummocks, arrived at the desired cape, at six in the morning of the SOth. Our encampment here was of a novel na- tui-c ; being formed by excavating, in a ridge of snow, a burrow, large enough to contain the party, which was then roofed by the skin boat; securing afterwards its sides to the surface, by means oi the snow that had been removed. An opening being made on (he lee side, it was stopped up by a block of snow for u door, and, by means of the blanket bags, wc contrived to make our beds bolii warm and soft. A spirit lamp served to melt sufficient snow Ibi drink; while thus, for many subse(]uent nights, we enjoyed a sounder sleep Mian we had often done under circumstances far more comfortable and promising. Cape Isabella rises abruptly, and often precipitously, to ahoiil five nwiidn^i fe^t above the level of the sea, and is formed of pnv TO THE AltCJIC REGIONS. ,3, granite presenting patches of vegetation, which, for this rlim.tP seemed to have been unusually luxuriant in the p st «nmme t '; tracks of grouse, hares, and foxc , vere the only indi^U^ns ^ animal life ihat were seen. ^ """duons ol From the accounts of the Esquimaux, I had cxnected (o ^o. narrow entrance to this inlet, beyond the cape, tc S , lo; . given he name of Ik-ke-rush^yuk; a. they lad also dlcX U. be formed by a low point to 'the westward, and some shnd But instead of this, the land on which I stood, still prX vedt westerry trending, while the opposite shore diverged; and tinco concluded that the reported inlet was on the side opposed (omv present place, where several small islands skirtedTe rioHhe ,^ ZJil' I" "'\-"^'r"^' ^'"'''' ''-- -cumstanc co„ i dered that my best plan was to continue along this coat is f^. 1 the entrance of the inlet; the boundary of whfch vou d bo de e. m.aed by the huminocky ice of the ocean. The needful obe,vl ns or this cape were then made; but, in returning to the plrty I had the misfortune to break my only compass by I fall ; an ace!: ent which prevented me from making any further^obse 'at!ons . the variation of the needle, and thus causes a blank which I mu regret, pervading the remainder of this journey Our labour hitherto had exceeded our strength ; and it was therefore regulated thenceforward, that wc should rise at fouH. le afternoon; and, after our meal, with the necessary stowar" and arrangements, proceed on our daily, or rather nightly, jouTnev between six and seven : limiting the length of it to ten hours The labour of encamping, the evening (being truly a morning) meal' epairs of clothes, and other matters, then occupied three o. four Hours so that the seven or eight remaining were left for sleep Under this new arrangement we set out at six in the evening • pursuing our route close along shore, under the projecting point of imestone which skirts Cape Isabella, and extends ilongK o ! for some miles, wW it is broken into capes and inlets by moans of long ridges of that roci. The direction, here, of the c -f'l-x I? - . - . — a J.. j.;»,(jj,,, ,.„!i,ng siniiuQ vi iiiC iLsquinuiUX i Bfi we TO THE AHCTIC REGIONS. gg, Ihc party came i„ ,i„h, „„, .^e b„,L^ „T,|, °"le, and beTn.'!!- " «oon began (o trend In ^jj. 7 w t-M I 1 • moragrapiiic Sciences Corpordtion 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY 14S80 (716) •7a-4503 V ^^ A \ 1.N 4^ ^;* ^ cs. ;\ S^ 4 VM V WJ'.. ^^ m^.- C/j i ^ iM SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY two miles oH', witli a great extent of ocean, terminating in heavy packed ice. Here, also, seeing that the land to the south-west was low, and apparently broken into islands, I resolved to keep along the north shore of Matty island, where the hummocky ice assured me that we were on the boundary of the great northern ocean. We therefore pursued our journey at the usual time, but found the way extremely laborious among this rough ice ; while our toils were much increased by a thick fog, whicli froze on our clothes so as to render us nearly incapable of moving under their weight and stiffness. It was even with great difiicuity, so much were the men exhausted, that we could form our encampment at six in the morninf;. V. iCn we halted. The place we chose was under the west point ol Matty island, formed, like the Beverly islets, of small ridges ol limestone, rising to a considerable height, which have a west-somli- westerly direction. We had coasted along it about twelve milc.^; but all else that we had seen consisted in a few tracks of partridges, together with some footsteps of bears, hares, and foxes, which ap- peared quite recent. May 24.— Wo were in a miserable plight, from the fatigues oi this day, and passed a comfo-lless uighl. To resume our hard and frozen dresses, was also a most diflicult and painful operation ; but the evening proved line, and a little courage and cxertio-, soon put us in motion once more. From the place which we, thus, shortly attained, the opposed shore of the island which ue had left, ap- peared divided info niiuiprous islets; while the ridge of hummocky ice which we had crossed on the day before, was elevated abmc the heavy pack that Tilled the inlet, and strelchcd out in an unbroken line as far as the eye could reach, in a direction toward the north-north-west. After three hours of hard labour, we succeeded in crossing from Matty island to a low point of the mainland, to which I gavt' Mr, Abernethy, our mate's name; conferring that of (ape Hfibine on a cape to the north- wo:,l whiili we shortly afterwards rounded. Wc thence found the coast tren«ling directly to the westward ; and lieiv linding level ice as well as line weather, we made n rapid progress niong the shore ; hailing at six on the morning of the 2blU of M.iy, after a smart day's journey of twenty miles, and imeumping, or biurowing, on a point which I named Vafo Young, alter the member lor Tynemouth. A reef extending from this point norlh-wesfwnrd, for two miles and a hall, no as to meet the north point of Temurnt island, prolecis un excellent harbour, could such a harbour ever be of any nsi' ; and its entrance, which is two mih s wide, is divitled iii i\w middle di^MirfiMaMk TO THE ARCTIC UECilONS. ^^^ by ail islet that would eHeclually cover it from dm Inv.c- . heavy ice. As the island was named affer il Fmi 1 n ""^ "^ so has this, by the title of Port Emerson ^''^ ^'"^'^''" 1^""«"'. Setlmg out at eight o'clock, we passod alontr (he rrpf ..a i .. north-west till we came to th" kst point'o? "'^f '' '''' .^^''^^- bay, to which was given the name K "'"" '"''^' °'' to the member for Aberdeen To .1 .r'"""" ' '" '■"'^P'i"'«»t .ask, and occupied us t ree K"o„,.!" r^ '" ^"' ' '"'^ ,'''^'"'*'«"^ and hummocky, and .1 r«,ve,ed ; f I ^'"^' """'T^^^ '"^'^^ deep among the crevices Af ^n .r •""? 'r^''' ''''''^'' '">' ^'^''y lixed into rock^, while 'e "3 k 1 '"" "'*'" '^ '"•'^^''•' "P ""<' irJn^ieiti;"^^^^^^^^^^^^ X colo . it is n' rr "*"''^ ""discriminated, as well hy sh„p^ be extremely siuiple. ' '*''»''^'''' '" ^^°*"'^^' »« At any rate, I could not satisfy mvself in m.n . ninoli more case and ranidiiv li..< ;., .i l"^*"^""" >Mtli iliiiN rjMisent to be «iill ,.„...,r sah'st rpsoluiion; and '"U VriWi Hic heavy loud that m 206 SECOND VOVAGE OF DISCOVERY much augmented our labours, and so disadvantageousfy contracted our time. And, indeed, diminished as the weight was by the consumption which our provisions had already undergone, that load was not only still a heavy one, but was, relatively to our strength, even more troubbsome than it had hitherto been. The dogs had be- come worse than useless, from the continued labour which tliey had exerled,and which we could not diminish by giving them an oc- casional rest for a day or two, since we could not afford to hazard the loss of that fine weather, of which the term was fast ap- proaching. Lest readers may have forgotten it, I ought perhaps to say that the height of summer in these climates renders traveliinL' as impracticable as does the depth of winter. It is not that the heat is more intolerable than the cold, though it is sufficieiiiiy tormenting and hurtful, but that the frozen surface becomes at hrst so loose and wet as to be nearly impassable; while, as ilie ground is laid bare on shore, and the water opens at sea, it becomes utterly impossible to travel either by land or water,' or rather, as 1 might safely say, by that which is both or neither Latterly, mdeed, we had but two.of these animals in a serviceable state, and one of tJie poor creatures died at our present encanip- nieut. "^ 1 here contrived to shoot two partridges, which not only gave us what was now rare, a warm meal, but enabled us to save our pro- visions ; a most important matter, as we were now situated. No one will be surprised to hear how often during all these years we had formed the idle wish that men could live without food ; a wish, idle and nonsensical as we felt it, that was ever in g, since the necessity of eating was the ever-recurring obsti , o all oui endeavours. Three low islands, situated about ten miles (o tnc northward of our present position, were named Beaufort islands, aUer the well- known hydrographer to the Admiralty. A dense haze prevenid us Irom moving till nine o'clock on (his evening, when, continiiins' our journey, we arrived at the eastern point of aa extensive bay, and held along down its eastern shore, in a south-westerly diiec tion, for two hours. From different places, I obtained a couinleic view ol It, and afterwards rejoined the parly on the opposite side. The western side being steep, we had great difficulty in dragginB our sledges up (he bank ; but, having surmounted it, proceeded across the country in a north-west direction, till we were rnni- pelled, by a (hick fog, to halt on the margin of an exiensive lake, ai »ix in the evening of (ho 27th. We hud g«ined but eight mdes, owing to the time expended in examining (he bay just mentioned, to TO THE ARCTIC ULGIONS. ^ which I gave the appellation of Pairv. in Kratilude ,,. . «• whose name is here a sufficient distinction. ^ '" '" ''"'^«'' The projecting point in the centre of this bay was named Sf.nl from him who is sufficiently known bv his tr/vpL ;» r i a^^' we here found several stone hn.c „ K- i f '" ^""^^^"^ ' "'"^ cupied by the natives not ,o„gbef:o"'' ''''^""' '' ''^^^ ''''' - ..elg St^Stw^;:^ Jt '"^^ f'T'' ''-' --' «•'" desirous to continue or o'n^nev' "!, '^"'' f''' ''''''^'^ ' ^^'^ for future investigators Will Th A '? ".""""« ''^"'ai^ing an attempt, it was necessary to make a cilll f.,...i „ i . the allowance of provisions- LdTLl '^'V '"'^''f 'eduction in oui' course alonir «lio ..«a.i • '" *" J'"^^''"- ^« then continf^d « I'oin., at two o'clock o„ | e ^HiU m'"' I '"""^ ''"•^'""^ » an cxiensivi. h^v, t-i " '^y- ^^ •"*-''' '«''»ed one side ^^^'^TaZalLi ". WHB named af.er I),-. Hichardsou ; anj "i our enci.:!;'::;;::.'"'''^^"^ '"■" '^ '*'*'""•''''" ""••-'-- «»• i-« M«v 29.— Wi. iU..-f„,.„ i„'ii fr8r]» Cape Felix, free from all appearance of land, served to raise oiil expectations as to the further success of the ensuing season, when we might hope, now that we knew what was before us, lo succeed entirely in eomplelin;^ the survey of the north shore oi America, since we could now make our arranjcmenls accurately to meet what was still to be done and endured. Additionally desirous, therefore, to be quite sure of (he facts as far as they could here be ascertained, and that I was not deceived by some large indentation of the coast, I devoted (he day to a tiii'l more accurate examination of the circumstances. How exg was much faligued however bvX ZrJ TT'°» "' ">» 3 1 «, »er, Iheless, 1,L slackened oJdeST ^'t'f "L"""''' °°'' °«™'- «f proCisioiB lef, ' ^''''''''^' '» "'" '""' °»"'i"« i» 'l-e shape tbis,we arrived a' PobYo.nK? '^ ""finished; and, after second. A brae! 0?!!,"" ? ? ?' '" '" 't*' '"^•'"'''S «f ^^e found many circles of stonP, '1^°'' ^^e here shot; and we sidences of ?he Esquimau? ''"'^'^'"^ '^'' ^""'""'^ ^»«""'"- ^«- .p^..tos--^s^^ .t S/o^e o'fZS 7''^-"^''--'-'y direction along nuinland;erm nVlr ,t:^7r't^^^ .^0 40 ■, and the Ion Jtude 9^26''^^^^^ ''"'"'' '"^^ "^^ «»" nineoVlirr ''•'°"S .^««!e'-'y breeze prevented our departure till c-tto't^tTililir^^^^^^ -niles during tirnlhf V^I' "^ "•«%« journey of ut nine much weakened so tLt It /"''T r' ^'"P' ^^'^ ^''^ P*''y ""^ For some time past IdLd . . r ""f T'*^'" *" ^''«^«' '^^^e-"- "0 be arered rrr """' ' ''u ''''•^ ^''' ""^ '^' arrangement couTd , altered, though we could not succeed in surmounting mo e i or twelve miles in the dav. W« »-- 1 1*0 a 1 1 1 1 '" tri5iity uiiics 'iVl SECOND VOYAGE CV DISCOVERY IVoin the sliip, and (he remaining provisions amoiinled only *■> \\\e day's consuin|)(icn; wliilc we wore by no means sure that vje ^i '"""' °'^''"'" "'^ '''''«»ds ventures during our ab.ent .' "vhicif :J'"^''r ""^ '^''^' «^n ad- .ng that they were indulging ome S I! '""'^ ""' '^^'P ''"agin- ..rsts of laughter which fdlo3 r ""'■.""P«»^«' ^'om the 'I'mgwasingood lnunour;Torctfc h"'l'^'^- ^""' «verv i'ed by the union of (his mirti S 7 ^'''?''^'^« ''^^^ The-length of our beards «! i '''^"" ^'"^««ss towards .u 'he Victory, was, ™' o ". .^^^^ »>-" «'-ved since ' It ".ent; while one of thorn! ang "';;,'? r''^^«'' 8'««t amuse -e arnongthis tribe, claimed co^L ' ti? I •,? ''^ was of „„„,„^, This man, called Ow-wen-yoo-ah ^T- ^ "'°" that ground, and a g,.eat traveller. He told me that he 171 "'*'^"'^«"* Person, with Kan-ny-yoke, and immedi^lv rl! *i P"''"^ the winteJ '"'.n which I had found at The m?iro w'?f " f ''^'^^ ^^ '^^^'''^ informed me that Oo-rr^on i;t ^-wul-ta island. He al.o that place; there b i g f^t ^ .l^'n T"^ ''^'^ i'^'^^y "eyoLd were three days' jourJev on laki ^' '"^"''"'^' •'»^'«'' ^hich there passed whieh,'the;„g:-rrivS; s^w ,""' 'T '«"^' '-'-K travel many days Jlong the sea coast Hi' /"'^'''•^ «^''ff«'^ to packmg up their tent; and on our ,tl- f "^'^^ ^'"^ '«" ^^^e now informing us that we should f"i h ^^ V^^'"^ ^" ^«P--'<^d day havmg been very fine, I obt J„pT f ^"'-.'''^-''''-Mer Th« the name of which is^^mik-shtl'v «^™"«»« at 'this plaet were tokens of gratit^iV "rfonntrf! "'"'''"' ^f'^- P-ese '"the hopes of a reward, I dSed /."p "''' «'' ^^''^ b'-ought or them. Notwithstand „g |, .j ^'" ""V*' '"•'*''« «"y rot.u-n fuel, which seemed thS ml ' 7°'"'? ^^'^ ^'^^ brought I " •"^n it would be to hZ ZVetl T^' '"'"'•'"«'' "« wha c every three hours, we JJce ed ff ^P'^' ^^ *''"« '" rota on which proved :t,u;Im,h ^ t !f "* '^.'"' '^'^ '''«™ « ftcsh stock' -ished abundanti;,";r« •r.^.^r^^-^; J'^e «^h were^S ^^^--^= -„ our two dogs were nill^S^lS ;!^S IS" SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY led twice a day, while they took care to keep off their own, lest they should interfere with those which were most in want. For all this we offered nothing in return, nor did they seem once to expeoi it ; so that whatever avarice or keenness in dealing we might have suspected them of on other occasions, we had here ample proof o! their hospitality, if not of aught st refined as gratitude ; on the want of which virtue, however, our limited acquaintance with them could never have enabled us to pronounce. Anxious to ascertain where the river which I had discovered on the 8th of April discharged its waters into the sea, I prevailed on tlie native called Atayaraktak to take me to the entrance of the in- let. He informed me that he had been there some days before, for the purpose of making a fishing hole in the ice ; that he wouhl willingly conduct me thus far, but that if I chose to proceed further, he must remain behind tc fish : a reason which seemed abundant!) solid, since I could not but perceive that our consumption had ma terially reduced their store. Leaving the party, therefore, to work at such repairs of various articles as were now wanted, I set out with this man, and after tra veiling about five miles to the south-south-westward, we arrived at the entrance of an inlet somewhat less than a quarter of a mile in breadth, but enlarging considerably in its progress. This strait lie called lk-ke-rush-yuk,a name derived from ihe rapidity with which the water rushes out in the summer ; the stream being fresh and good for drinking, as he said, though at this point, where I tasted it, I found it very salt. I obtained my sounding here in six fathoms, which was the length of my companion's line. June 1).-— While he remained to fish, I proceeded along the left shore of the inlet, about four or five miles; and ascending an ele vated ground, gained a commanding view of the inlet, though I could not bo quite sure of the continuity of the opposed and remolc shore. My conclusion, however, from the report of the Ksipii maux, was, that the west branch of the river in question must laJI into the sea somewhere to the southward of Point Scott. The shore on which I stood had gradually changed its trendinn from south to south-east by east; and at two or three miles beyond. the inlet appeared to be not more than half a mile broad, whcnci' it turned more to the north-east: and here I could see the spot I had visited on my iirst journey to this place. Hut as I could pursue the present examination no further, 1 returned to my lishing (ricnd, whoso patience was nearly exhausted. Ho had caught about tliiitv fish, and was ready to go back (o his party. We reached K-nook sha-ligalsix in the morning; iMm;h exhausted, in consequence ol ii^a li-l^npjiiiia WiijLinir thrOliiCh illC ¥()ll SHOW: Mr. Abernothv here informed me that during our absence iIm' TO THE ARCTIC IIE(JI0NS. 277 natives had given them a feast; each family having cooked a keltic lul ol hsh. They were consequently first iifvited tS one of the tent where the contents of the kettle having been drsLtrhp? I ' family treated them in the same u.anl.a "d soTn fn ot'aUon'm they had run thi. sort of eating g„„„,|oi ,|„.ough the\vhot of the lhUo'h« ", ■"' ";P''''^'"« i "'"y ""•« "^« '""«h more t an th ought to have done It was a featmo of somewhat refined no ite .•Spaniard than an Esquimaux, that during the whole time of thk r Kn ""'l''''^" ';^'^"y ^''"^ ''"«•« Continued haning hem them : being desirous to put ofl' till tlit! verv last w «« VZ J \ .0 j,-e, .hat we ,„igl,. „lva all ,,„„ZZl ,t "bjec "'"' lieing now much recruited bv a dav'n ntsi ,m,i ..ii .1 • j 1 we set out at ten in the night I," Z ?0, T " .me^'Zit' '2' since we could ,now entertain no doubt of their realg'Sile d ' 1 Ks however, was fully returned to m in an ample supply oE" which, m addition to the blubber that had becnVorved in suner' to aS „?r 1 "''*' «c«omp«„icd us as far as l>ad-le-ak, to assist us in dragging our sledge, and to point out to us where he.r ten s would be pitched in the summor. On finally sc'pa,!^iinl hey continued to cheer and thank us an long as we weTw bS They had desired us to follow the tracks of a party ^vhich Ind preceded ; and this nstruction proved of essentinl slrlice i pite o my endeavours to find a shorter road lor myself by nede'ii^t^." wS won d akr''"f?;/'"' ''"y r'' «'""« '" 'i' "a some' Which would take us off the most direct road, and therefore Quitted Zl,2 1 .V r a " ^''"'' ''"w«vor, I was completely bnHled by lie great depth of the snow and water on that lino, wherever at^ empted to diverge into it ; so that I was a( length ^M ahndo emin. t oMl!" """^' '" «"■•'•""''•""•». my own <.,,inion, and c^ scnt.ng to follow my yet unseen guides. A dense log, indeed Jn ^ „ vumpasa, wc SDOUiU nave beuiicoin- .il 278 SECOND VOYAGE OF DK«COVEItV pelled to halt in the middle of otieol the lakes, witlioiil being cxacdy cnrlain where we were, or what was to be done next. We arrived at Tar-rio-nit-yoke in latitude 69° 41' 0', and longi- tude 92" 54' 21 ", at eight in (he morning of the 1 1th, and encamped on the south side of the stream which carries the waters of this chain of lakes to the sea. The party of Ow- wen-yoo-ha was hero seen on the opposite shore; and as soon as (hey perceived our ar- rival, one of them waded across the stream, which was between four and ve feet deep, to bring us some fuel. This man was our acquaintance Ow-wen-yoo-ah and he told me that they intended to remain there fishing, for some time. He expressed himself much disappointed at the absence of a large party which he had expected to lind Ijere; informing us also that he haJ gone, the day preced- ing, in pnr.uiitof some reindeer with their fawns, which had been seen in the neighbourhood of Shagh-a-voke, but without success. When we rose in the evening, to pursue our journey, the whole of Ow-won-yoo-ah's family came over to us. His present wife and children belonged to another man who was his partir dar friend, and an angekok, to whom he had, in the preceding autumn, lent his own two wives; a loan which is here considered a peculiar mark of friendship, and, it nnist be admitted, not very unreasonably. He had expected the restoration of this pair of spouses at this lime and place; but the borrower Shoong-ug-u-wuk had taken them with iiim on the expedition after deer, and this breach of agreement seemed to be the chief cause of our friend's vexation and disap- pointment. If we once supposed that this practice, for which these people may plead the authority of ancient Home, was limited to the natives of Repulse bay, we had subsequent occasion to believe that it was universal among this tribe ; the inhabitants of Boothia, as we must now term this country. Others may analyze the morality of this fashion ; but one thing at least appeared certain, namely, that tho women had no voice in the matter, and were therefore considered merely as property or furniture, conformably to the high au- thority already quoted, and to the practice of some other nations in states d" civilization rather more resembling, it must be owned, that of Koothia than of the Alistress of the world. At this place the thaw was proceeding with such extraordinary rapidity, that the stream w hich we had crossed in the morning with the greatest case, was now impassable. The torrent of water thus discharged from the lakes had also covered the ice which was to he traversed, to the depth of several feet. Not a dry spot remained any where ; for there being no tide powerful enough to break up (ho frozen barrier towardti (he sea. ihiM il'tMnaaiit^vui^i»piuuiL\ liml •0 ri«a a-'d !'is!l o TO THE ARCTJ-: C'^GTONS. 379 1,0 passage to it, except through a few seal holes which were ouito incompetent to drain it off. ' Had we not already known that such must be the case at this season of the year we should have had ample proof of the neces- sity ol condensing the expedition from which we were ftow return- ing, withm the very limits to which it had been fixed. It is true that our coulmed stock of provisions formed the actual restraint on our further advance, and that our return was, as I have already shown compulsory, from this cause. Yet in thus restricting that allow- ance, and, with ,t, the time of our absence, we had not acted im- prudently as the facts now proved ; whether or not we are to be allowed the credit of having shown prudence and foresight in our calculation. And however impossible it was then, and even now IS, to suppress the constantly returning regret that we did not reach (ape lurnagain,! cannot see how we could have completed that survey and returned in safety, or perhaps returned at all. even Ihougl, we had been amply provided for a longer journey. At any .ate. It was plain that the arrangements for such an expedition ruult be very different from what ours had been ; and that if it was to be ..ndertaken in the following season, a new calculation must be made and very different expedients adopted, together with much moie' lorce, to ensure any chance of success. LInder the present obstructions we were recommended 'hv Ow- wen-yoo-ah to go round by Shag-a-vokc, since he considered that the water was too deep for us to cross. This however would have ma erially increased oi.rdistance from theship ; and, as lalso knew nat the ice was very bad at the entrance of the inlet which we should lus be obliged to traverse, I determined to attempt the wading of lie bav at this pace since the distance was not much more than Iwo miles. I therefore caused all the holes in the skin boat to be repaired; and having stowed the luggage in if, we proceeded on Ins amphibious portion ol our jo.irney at ten o'clock. The water 'lid not inally prove more than knee deep, and was barely suffi- cient to float our boat: but we found no difficulty in reaching the opposite shore by midnight. We should not indeed have been iiispleased had this watery tract extended much further ; since we ound It a very laborious task to get over the high craggy ridtfo of land that intervened between it and Too-nood-leed bay, which was now bare of snow. In this bay, to compensate for that difficulty, the (ravelling was among the easiest that we had found. The water, which had here also over lowed the surface, had dissolved (he snow, an^« ^'""" •»'" «h,p. On ,he next da"y, the ^^^^f ' 2S« SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY weather was foggy (ill the evening, under a north-east wind; wlioii it becanoe clear. The larboard leeboard was fixed, and the prepa- rations for the travelling party completed, should the weather perinit of moving on the following day. Jime 23. — It proved fine. The sledge and the skin boat were got ready, and the provisions stowed away in them after breakCasl. The chief mate, with ten men, went o(T to draw it ten miles in ad- vance, returning at eight in the evening. At nine, Commander Hoss and four men left the ship, with the dogs : with the intention of proceeding as soon as they had reached the deposited sledge. The returned party had killed some ducks, and seen reindf.er. These animals had been gradually passing in increased numbers; since we had latterly seen many, though, for so long a time, we bad found nothing but their tracks. The morning of the 24th was fine, but there were rain' and snow about noon, continuing till midnight : it was not, certainly, a mid- summer day in effect, whatever it might be In the calendar; ond even if the usages of St. John's day had penetrated to these lands, there was as little temptation to light bonfires as there was an utter deaith of materials for constructing them. In consequence, however, of the thaAv, a considerable quantity of water flowed from the decks into the hold, being produced from the snow which still remained on the sides of the ship ; and this we were obliged to drive out by the forcing pump, as the others were not yet clear of ice. Tiie surgeon, who had escorted the party, returned early in the morn- ing with a brentgoose; and the first swan of the season was seen. At this time flights of ducks began to pass, in considerable numbers. The snow still fell, occasionally, though it was mild ; and the day ended in a fine evening. The men were employed in cutting the ice on the larboard side of the ship, to allow licr to right her- self; in consequence of which, she rose fourteen iuches. The thermometer at night was 34". On the 26 ih at noon, it was ()2"; such were the extremes of day and night in this climate, and at midsummer; as, to confirm this, it fell again to (he freezing point at night. It is the alternate reign of the sun and of the accumulated ice. Whaifiver the former effects, cannot last, and it ceases as soon as the great source of hea* becomes depressed in its career. I took an opportunity of setting the net where a stream entered the near- est lake, but caught no fish; we did not even see any. An egg ol a goose was found ; proving that they breed here ; and many ol these birds were seen, while one was killed. The ship was, al length, nearly upright. .hino 27. — Nuthina vvorthv of note occurred on Sunday. Tlic uieu, however, alter the service and a diver. June 28. — It v temperature sanl^ we finished ourp ing. In the morn irig at noon, a pj sledge, a boat, ar for six days, and seven, I followed, oflhe party returr He had been sent idog: they had a being a mile shoit spot. But this did] being io catch fish necessary material June 30 To c say that it snowed at night, and a fre summary, thst I m ft is scarcely nee inonlh to our prosp^ At Port Uowen, tw< rain as early as th( pured here till the Irost and snow, so j lion as in the earlit ice had become mi compact. The weather had, I pities. Commande iravclling, and his i '''ings, the limits of 1 1*)' (he result of (his Our intercourse w I sequence of their reii I ipims of greater conf I fill in hunting, and h mes; but whenever (1 |«ilhfood, we did so; [and thankfulness. | |Ci)iisenMon[ on iUr >- ^itrds fully rectified a TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 2„^ iiieu, however, were not forbidden (o ^hnnt in ,\ ■ alter the service of this day and Thpi . ? :. l^"' "'"«' ^^''^"^ and a diver. ^ ' ""* ^''"' 'P^""' '^•'«"ght us five d.r<:ks 4-fl~^lnr;re7;^ - ^3"-''^' '^^^'^e ni.ht we finished our preparations 7; r?h« ^ ,^ '^ '"'""'^ ^'^ "'« ^«y He haJ beL sent ba'ckt ^neTl t"' t^tll t'"° '"''«"■ a dog: they had not «ueceededTn reaihinrfulp^h '' "''"•?"'* being a mile short of the northern hur^bfnb/i^.r "" ^'*'' ^pol. But this did not prevenrour nrt. 5 ""^ ^^^ appointed being to catch fish forwhll wl proceedmg: our principal object neceiary materials ^'^ P''^^'^^'^ °"''««'^«* ^ith the It is scarcely neelrjo al tZ i l' .T""* "^ *^"'' J""'''^y- month to our pros^ds of lllol.r f '^*'". '^ ""^'^ ""favourable A. .Port IW^tw^tndK e7fu: hT;;^^^^^^^^^ 'V"; ^'^"^• ra.n as early as the seventh of the Zl Z^TwJ^'''' pured here till the nineteenth, andWas fo'lhr^ i """^ ^" Irost and snow, so as to M.rn\^ h! T 'o' «wed, moreover, by 'ion as in the aHier ia of it IP """' 1° "'' ''""' ««"'^' - had become mu^hlinl'^rbut' tZ^fevl^i' '"t I lompact. ^^' *"" very thick and a.S;Tlmal\. tZd "^^T/— '''^ f- t»- exploring m.g«, the limits of our hit ,e endeavo^J ""''' T""^ "^''•"• ^y the result of .his cxpcSn '"'^'"^^"'^ ^'«''« '""«'• "arrowed 4!^cro7E^:i^br'r '^^ "•"•^'^ '^^^-«^' - -- ;-s of greaterrnS ; I n^ rTllTX'' "'^ ""^ "' 'fj'in hunting, and had therefo,rbecn ulabTe o h ""'"''''"" plies; but whenever thev wn.n n ? , . " *"''"ff "*' '^"y s"p- |«ill. food, weTd L ?.Lr "•' ''"^ ^^ *'«"'*^ nnnish them J-.1 thankflln s' ,;;reS'witl?"""T^ --Uf gratitude The |consen.,P,w n„ ,i.„ u J'^Tl' with exception of the adventum i 284 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ciently pardonable and not very serious pilfering, we found every reason to be pleased with the character and conduct of this tribe, not only to us, but towards each other. I have given several in stances of their kindness, in their dragging the iielpless on sledges, and the care of their children; and if they seemed an alTeclionalc and good-tempered people, so did they appear to live together in perfect harmony, and to be free of selfishness, even on the subjeci of that great article, food, which constitutes the whole, it may almost be said, of a savage's enjoyments. I had no reason to suppose that I had prematurely formed this favourable opinion, though it is so much' at variance with what has been reported ol other tribes of the same people. It remained for time to deter- mine what the exact truth was. The alterations and fittings in the ship had made so much pro- gress, that it was plain we should be ready long before it could serve any purpose. Though the health of the crew was generally good, three or four continued to show such a proneness to scurvy. that we were obliged to regulate their diet and treatment accord- ingly. They had been much harassed and fatigued during this period, but bore their toils cheerfully. The observations and surveys had been going on, including many on the dip and variation of the needle. The highest tem- perature of the month had been 02* plus, and the lowest 20' : the mean was 36", 76" : I need not repeal the comparisons with those of the other expeditions in the same month. Our sport was but indifferent : yet some good specimens of animals were procured. The perpetual hunting of the natives seemed to prevent the deer, together with the animals of prey which followed on their traces, from resting for any time iii this neighbourhood ; while the same cause, doubtless, drove the must oxen, and possibly also the hares, from this vicinity, to places where they could find greater security in the solitude of these deserts. All Expedition to Fis June 20.— Hai had been appoint* before we had re: loaded with small is not a safe anim; men returning wit boat where the an We then proceed< holes. June 30.— Earl; entrance of the inle in which we had ] tent, as it began to in a sheltered spot, and go to rest. ^ sonae reindeer. 1 and divested of all dangerously thin, cracks. After dinner, at which turned to tl miles, till it divided west, and the othei mile, and arrived moimtain, where w easterly direction, j northward, from wl distant. We saw no riven 'here was only a s remains of snow h proved somewhat al as it generally had I dui'ks nnil iriillo oil , _,..,,-., ,5,, J «as for the most pai TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 385 CHAPTER XXXf. » no. a safe animal .„ fJoVe IZZXf^t "ler' h"' ,l.e we ,he„ p^cee^eO over .he i., w&rtrfuSXSra m which we had proposed to fi^h • K„f ,,7 ^"« estuary ot the nver ««,U™a.d. ,,.„,„ „.,,hi.vi,iMeen.,e„„Lo.tS;£l'!i: ".■main, of "Iv I u , (t'.s L„T T"'' °" '" '""'■«'" »»"» fovea ,„,„„»,,». aZ^dan? , ^t n';,. ':rr'':V' " "''• ;;:2t,;!;!::l"!;i !-:",i» '• -.^. -■ »P«^;';":i"r,,T:: _ji.i- Wl™^ ■l;l 'im SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ing the other inlet was, like those we had ascended, rugged and bare. and there was a narrow channel of water along its shore, extending all the way up, excepting where two points projfected. Many showers of rain fell during this walk, and the weather at length became so thick and misty, that all further view of the interior land was unat- tainable. July 1 . — We returned about two in the morning, for the purpose of resting till six, during which time it blew a gale from the north- ward. After this, I set off, \vith the surgeon and one man, to examine the coast to the west, in search of a river; and passing along the shore, came to an island in the south of the inlet, and, afterwards, to two points, the bays near which received nothing larger than a small rivulet. We then passed two more points on the right, and three islets on the left ; finally arriving at the arm of the sea and that mouth of a river which were formerly examined by Commander Hoss. Finding it still frozen, we proceeded to the north shore, as- cending the rising ground as we went on; and at length, at the dis- tance of three miles, meeting two small lakes. Thence I ascended a mile, leaving my companions, lest I sliould fatigue them ; and, crossing a lake, proceeded to the summit ol the highest mountain. Hence I saw the termination of the northern branch of the inlet which I had observed yesterday, and beyond it a neck ol land dividing it from the one further to the northward, which was also distinctly seen, about seven miles distant. 1 re- turned after two hours, and, joining my companions, we arrived at our tent. While resting near it, a man was perceived crossing the bay, on wiiich we fired a shot, to attract his attention. He seemed at first alarmed, but at last stood still to look at u- when the surgeon went to meet him, throwing away his gun, as tin ignal of friendship. On this he also threw away his bow and arrows and spear, when, ap- proaching with the usual salutation, he was discovered to be our friend Awack. I then persuaded him to accompany us to our tent ; giving him the gun to carry, in hopes of t\ius better establishing confidence among us. We had walked thir'dcn hours, and were glad to find a dinner, in which we made our f iend partake. He informed us that his uncle Ikmallik's party were at a river that entered the bay about ton miles off; and thither we determined to go, to his great satis- fuctiun. ()ur tent and baggage were immediately packed on the sledge with the little boat and the net, and we set off with fresh spirit, passing several islands and points, till we came to one of those allu- vial mounds which I formerly described ; on rounding which, we saw the river, and the huis of the natives about a mile away on the north bank. At our guide's desire, we announced our approach by TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. firing a gun whi.J, produced a general acclamation. Leaving ih. sledge belnnd 1 was soon at the village, and was received wkhonen arms by our old friend Ikmallik. *'P*'" He informed us that the season for fishing in the river was ph^. i and that they were about to set oflF for the lakes hnf S! 1 ' would stay another day, if we would remain ^ilf them Ou;2^^^^^ then arriving, we erected our tent, and thev becan fnrpr.iV*?-' which had been taken down; the nuler ofTnSie?hP f'"''' They were highly del.ghted 'when I ^^ay^d'r L/^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ malhk s tent instead of our own. We wpi-p ih^» J. V j . . fish includingtwo fine saMn, whi^h^pl^e^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ cookmg apparatus : a process that excited great attention fmm T jjnckness with which it boiled one of thes'e fishT'nT'f^r the' They had proposed to dine with us. and of course we cou'd r,nt re use; though perplexed to know how to cook for^o large a nlitv with our limited kitchen. The whole twelvP up.-p vZ ^ *.P^^y' into the tent; and with our own pa y^f fiv?i w.s lT?h'""'f i ripnflv fillo/i XT^'^ i""y "• "VL, i[ was more than suf- iicientiy iiiied. We were soon re ievrd fmm oii „ . «"-ui cooW n„<,i„g.,,ae .Ley f^eferJ^SJlZ. 0„ wSntr Iherefore, made a parallel progress ; i„ lime, l,o«evcr n^ifn ' had dev.,red ^o e^h. ^£1::^^^!::::^:^-:^!^ a luncheon after all, or a superfluouTmral tr 2" feTf o J ,'o"' ceiy. Nor is it wonderful that they so often suffer n^,nf2;;: under a more economical division of their food, with a Zle consi deration for to-morrow, the same district might main .t Inf 1 1 ,? number, and -th scarcely the hazard of w^L it "^^^^^^^^^^^ scandalized as it may be by its name, might even be deemed ' creature of moderate appetite in the comparison : with theirTl reason in addition, these people, could tj.ey alway comma 7" .eans,^would doubtless outrival a glntton^nri^oTrLlcil:: Whether Captain Cochrane's extravagant accounts be true or not^ the voracity of the northern savages, on both conUnenu sufTiceut y known. But it is a question tha't has roUeen exambed as it ought ; and my medical knowledge is far too smalTto T\\Z .JiT]:j)e ; m) tha same price. Ha( 'lave ventured to twenty fish, aver a (on weight of .« "0 more than sev< We had tl.us meat was most i those who were ( itnances for tian.' TO Tin: ARCTIC REiilONs lo reUirn Iroja U.p.sc remarks, we were .io( -, iw.i ■i'c fasluonablo usage, of the tabrhere lllT T'"'^ ^''*'' bone being laken „fr from two «sh thl «, ^*"''? «"'' ^ack- ivvo equal parts, dividinir nJl^r lu <■ ^ longiliHlinally into TbeyLre'Ihen'ro d .p S cy int of r"'"'l'"^" ^-« -«- when putting one er.d imoTeToJhlr "" '"'^'' '" ^'^'»«*«'N ofT by tl. knife .0 dos^s to Tdl'g tt l^f'tL'^' '' "^^ «"' party then i,«:uiing 'i.e reinaindpr tn hfc • ll *^« "ose ; the they pro, .edo-l (i|| 1, whXlck o? fib °"^'''''"''- *" ^'"^^ ^ay ll.cn., al-orwards eating t e L^us on nnf T' 'T'"'"''*^- ^ne of chanced to be .s(,mc lemon iuTceTnaX ''f *""'' ^'"1*^^' ^'^^^^ there n.. n^ .nd laughter o Te e T' ManJI'V^'^''^' «™"«e- k. .as been termed, oven where he 1^0?!,' '""^'^'"^ «"™«J. «« '" his inferiors of four legs approaches as nearly as he can we caught none, we .slmuld paSk^rthrt "^^^'^jfS ^hat if -as correet ; for, in three Its we tooE ^ ul'lf, I^''' ^'^^P^'^y called Kanayoke, while the last ZoulZ ^l\ [ *'°'^" ''"«" "^h produced great laughter ; buUf it dTd^lL '^ !u*''^" '*«"«• This of our dexterity in this art o it bid t/'7 '^'"^ " ^'''^ ^P'"^^" them from covLng our net R t^bl f ^^^^^n^age of preventing «shi«g, waseompifnslltedly our httit'LTb"'^'^^ '^^^ '''' '" a wdd goose ; and. by DresLfL^h ^' ? l^^ "^'"S' » gull and '•i.ds that we hi;rZr«r Jol;^^^^^^^^^ ^"^.--^ ^^^er '«enty-nve hours of wakefulness and ZZ \ '"''««,^'"g- After ^' sent ho in the south. "PPo.ntmg a meeting when the sun should not le«s than forty ^ahl' ;,?e"ed ," a 1 rff^ """^^'"'^^ which was readily acceptor He a^ a! v^ t'^' \' ^''^ ^^«'«. tented of these deale., while wJ n.K /'.'"^" '^« most con- e>-.)e, -that the oth^tttntf?;;;]^^^^^^^ ^ '"'" ^^'^ same price. Had I knn«»,« »i,„ 7 ""e»ea me their stores at the a Ion weiRlu of saLin of wCh ,h ' "^ """''^'^™ P™ducing Ihose who wor« lhn.a„.„„,i » i,l, !! .,f _""" r"' .«l>«ially for """"^ ""■ '""•""■■""^ ^' lo-i :,;■;;,'•;: ■;•;:•£ r nl "at 10 ■ !• -f-H-:- MO SECOND VOYAGE OK DISCOVERY skin beds were made inio two bags, and, with one more lent by Ikmallik, we succeeded in packing up two hundred and ten of these fishes, keeping the rest fur present use. The ofl'er of two pieces of wood to make a spear and a paddle, produced us, further, the loan of four dogs, with the assistance of three natives, to aid us on oiu- journey home, and to bring back the animals, together with their reward. Having all dined together, as before, we were ready to depart, when they said that they would show us their method of killing seals ; pointing to a large one half a mile off, on the ice. Eight of them consequently set out along the shore nearest to it, and then approached the animal slowly until it raised i(s head, when those in front stopped, and shouted as loud as they could ; on which throe others ran up with incredible swiftness, but as the leader raised his spear to strike, the creature suddenly plunged into a ci'ack on the ice, and disappeared. We did liot retaliate their laughter at our want of success in the fishery, as we were really disappointed. They afterwar -i manner, that had I not been first, it .voiild have gone down through the crack and ducking. No we had still s( brought us wi after much dil obliging us to fragments, vvt answered by tl minutes before well on board, There is lii The river whii and is only fift had made it tw fiom six to te the current rur left it. There preventing its n out of a Iarg« distance. To our comi they endeavour again the (hami lo fake place w to repeat (h(Nr v If the meeting li offish, which w now also found selling it to us th and thirty more, take them away three wolfwhcli .'nly I.- The "larked by little expeditions, a-id lliermoineler at i llie men were r< Commander lios with snow and r 'lorne tlio fish tin TO TIIK ARCTIC HF.filONs ^, we had%tili seven 'niriM^S^ '" """' ^''"'« brought us within siL^l.t I f I . . pciseveranoe at len^(h artc/n.uchS;cuIt 1 1 "^^^^^ '"''- f ^-- ; whliu, obliging us to unload and «p v separation of the ice, fragments, we g^„e^lo3^ "l^^^^ '''' '^^' '«««« answered by those o To.n^^r i /""; '"'^"'''*' '''"'^ ^■«'«' minMtes before u^ from si u ' i: (M •"'' ^'''" '"' "'^^ ^'•'"'^'^'^ '"«nv well on board ' '"'""« •"'l'^'''»i"n. We found all and is only nftecn miles f.Z,f^ ^7 ""^ "«^'^'«'' 'I'^t^'^k^ bad made ft twentyt us ? is b 'l' '""?'' "^ •^"'""''^"^ '^^''''^^ from six to ten doen th'e bo, ^' i .T' ''""J''«'J ''"♦^l wide, and .ho current rmming LV t' " tst ';' ^'^''''^^ "'"g-nite, and left it. There was a Ini; ' '"""""«'"%' before we had preventinguH^^^ai. 7:^.^^;;,; X::;; -''- ^'^ ^'^^ ^^--' o^^of^a large .a.e wh.eh J:..S^^^ .b':x=;":::s.r!::i:.;;:;!;^:j:-^ -'^^ ^^^' ^"»^ -Rain (ho drama of our firs- n.erH.V ^?"7 ' '"'^""J^' '*^*''- .0 take pla.-e . h... J I;:! ,: S: K^-Hloe ' O "''!^' "" (o ropoaf (heir words was ..l«n « u . ;""miloe. Our attempts If the meeting Ld tr^i .a. I'!'""' ?""'"' ""'"^''-nent (o them. ofnsh,whicifw" SCtwin;:^ now also found (hat (his ,h bZ. ^'' ^T' *'* '^''^ ''>'•''•' ' solliugitto us (he V( yea Z^J^rVl^ ^""' ^''" '"^""^i"" "f and (hi.,y .nore, bu( < u" ve e .f ^i^ ^'^ '"IT"'"''' '"'"d-'' take (hem awav I on.'!,, U / ' ' '""''' " '^ •'••ntrive (o three wolf v:^;:ips a^s,;!:: i;.;" ""■"""" """ «" '-"^''^ '-" «'-" ■naS'b; 1^;: ;:;•;::"' t;;;;:ix;' '""r rr ""^^"^•' '"^^ •- «pedi(ions, «M.I ,r , .i V<, i, ,1 "",""'"'""' 'r" '«'""' i" their 'hLome,;.. a, ^^I^ 'S"''''( r^h ri!,' 'f;'" T''' '^'^ the men were reo<.vei iii,r Tl -i i "^'' " ''"' ""^ '"'7' «"'^ with snow and rain^ , '^I'^ ^''i T '!'' 'T '" """ "-"'"K. •'ome the fish (hat had beeu || I- ^„ ''"'"''"''' " '"'"'y '" ''""» lU' in SECOND VOYAQE OF DISCOVERY CHAPTER XXXH. Journal of the Month of July, 183(1 — Summary of the Month— Transactions during August, ami its Summary. July 4. — On Sunday, after church service, the men who had been sent for the palmon returned : and part of Monday was occupied in cleaning them and packing them in the tanks, with ice. The snow- had nearly left the land ; and, this night, the nocturnal temperature rose to 48°. There was little to note on the two subsequent days: the necessary work for fitting out the ship was going on. The tem- perature fell, however, so much on the 7th, that it froze hard. The men were now ordered to receive three pounds of the fresh fish every other day. July 8.— It was less cold, yet at midnight the thermometer was but 37°. On the following day it rained hard for twelve hours, and the effect on the remaining snow was considerable. A native arrived with an offer of more fish, which we agreed to purchase when brought, and we undertook to send for it while he pitched his tent near us, with his family. In taking a walk to-day, 1 found (lie ice not more than a foot thick in many places, and so brittle, that our weight broke through it.' Our projected canal had melted away two feet, in depth of ice, at the surface. Some ducks and other birds were killed. July 11. — In the course of this Sunday our party rctinncd with the fish for which they had been sent. It was foggy in the morning?, and some rain came on at night, lasting till the following day. Thus it continued on the 1 3th; so that the snow on the land was almost entirely dissolved, and the ice covered by water. The several works went on in the mean time; and our sportsmen shot, among otlior things, some small birds that we did not know. July 1 4.— It did not clear up till the evening of this day, when it became fine, continuing so on the following day. At this time a piece of ice came tip to the stnface from beneath the ship, so for- cibly as (() lift her up on one side and cause her to heel, to (he tcni- porary alarm of those who were below. On shore, the mos(|uitops had just conunenced their most tuiwelcome .summer visit, and werr in iiWurrtiS. The thormomrtrr was 42' ai midnight. July 16.— This day was fine, with a strong northerly breeze; ami arJ as troubl TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 2^3 our sportsmen were very successful in shooting several birds It still blew hard on the following, with some heavy rain. The outer part the canal was now open. Sunday's muster, after service found the men much improved, in consequence of the change of diet' The ice round the ship was now broken in pieces, and the snow had entirely left the hills ; but no clear water wL seen at sea. on boL^ ;r:^ T*^ ''?' "^'^^^^^ ^''^''^^^ ^^^ mosquitoes even on board the sh.p, where they were very troublesome. On this and Uje following day the thermometer was as high as 42» at midnight On the twenty-first, the ice was so broken up about the^hip thai we could have hauled her out to the end of the canal. The severa chief sails had now been bent; and most of the painting, caulking and other repairs and alterations, were nearly finished July 22.— The weather was really hot, as well as calm, the ther- mometer nsing to 70». The swarms of mosquitoes were as great ar.H as troublesome as in the West Indies. There seemed to be dif- .ere.ll species ; and a large kind was the most venomous. The same cahaand warm weather continued on the following two days, brinR- lag us to the end of the week; but with as little variety of occurrence as during the preceding. We had work, indeed, to employ us, but .t was nevertheless dull. We were prisoners no^, equa^lyf by and and water; for the former was unlit for travelling, in its present condition, and as to clear water at sea, there was, as yet none Lven our sporting was impracticable, except at midnight ; such was the annoyance from the mosquitoes. July 25.— A south wind drove some of the ice to the northward but still we saw no clear sea from the top of the highest hill : the whole visible surface was a compact mass of ice. Iking Sunday, no work was done ; but on Monday, the Krusenstern was cleared out, and launched offthe ice to the beach, that she might be repaired and caulked ; and as the ice was now in motion around us, it became necessary to moor to the rocks, on each side. This was a dav of hard ram, for the most part. - ' July 27.— The rain continued, with a fresh breeze and a lower temperature, by which we got rid of the mosquitoes for a time The Krusenstcrn's and other work went on, on this and the following day, part ol which was expended in reshipping such parts of the en- gine as might be convertible to the general ums of the ship. Amona these was the main shaft: the cylinders were to be cut up for the purpose of examining their materials. Hut as the boilers and their irames could be of no use, and were not worth the transport, in any Mate, they wci-c left on shore ; with the natisfartory reflection at [oast, Uiat they would prove a valuable iron mine for our friends the '' MjliiiijaiiX. ^f i^i^n^^wc Mm' fi04 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY July 29. — Some trout had been observed in the lake yesterday ; but being late in going with the boat and the net, we had only one haul, and took but lour. This day we set out again, and had the luck to take above a hundred, averaging a pound each. It was the best sport that yve had had for some time, while it also furnished two days' full allowance to the crew. On the next, there were only seven taken. Some rain fell in the evening, and also on the follow- ing morning. This day, more than a hundred trout were taken by the net and the rod ; amounting to upwards of seventy pounds. The various works had been going on as usual ; and Saturday night brought them to a close for the week, bringing with it, also, the ciul of the month of July. Although it had been a warmer and a better one than June, it had not compensated for the lateness of the season in the two pre- ceding ones. The first of August was arrived, and we had not yet seen any clear sea, nor had any of the ice on it appeared to move. Still it was probable that the lirst southerly gale would break it up, could that last but for forty-eight hours: so that we might still feed on hope. The mouth had been uniform, and therefore comparatively dull to us ; but we had not at least been wearied for wont of occupation. Tiie ship had been completely refitted; and the new painting, while useful, had also improved her appearance. She w as o little leak) now, as not to make more than live or six inches or water in the twenty-four hours. I^ee boai«*s had been applied to her, and we trusted that these would improve her sailing: of the disposal of the several parts of the rejected engine, I have just spoken. The health of the men had so far improved, on their amended diet, that even the suspicious ones were now quite well. This great sup- ply of (Isli was a mattei- of congratulation, and somewhat balanced our other disappointments. They who, in reading thisjotunal, may read of nu'at and eating, must add something to the common id.-as usually associated in their niiuds w itu this uubjeet. At home, a good or a bad dinner is but a matter of content or the reverse ; and the first salmon of the season no UKue than a luxury. The bad dinner of yesterday will also be com|)ensaled l)y a belter one to-nmrrow; and he who cannot get salmon \\ ill easily find an equivalent. Hut, to us, good diet or bad, salt provisions or fresh, sufliced to turn the Bcule between activity and weakness, health and sickness, and, as well might happen, as used to happen hut too often in former duy.s, between life and death. And the first salmon of the sunnner were n mrdi( ine which all the «liugs in the ship (duld not replace: while, Ihongh they had «louc no more than diminish the wearisomene.s.'. wWhU men \\v\ (Voin being confined (o the eternal sanu'ness of a TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^ ship's provisions tlioy would have had a vah.e to u., greater than Otuconimunications with the natives had continued to confirm our good opinion o them : while, if we had attained to more know ledge ol their pecuhan.ics. and had witnessed many things repuK r^lt"'" ''"'''' '"' ^''""^"' ' ""^^ '-^^^^^^ ^hese ft ZZ Having frequently spoken of the K.uusenstein, I have now to ob- serve, hat when the ico had overllowed, it had sunk her, canW her with .t to the bottom. On the thaw she was at last ,e eved and brought on shore ; but she had sustained more daml^e ftom the pressure than we had suspected. iMany of her timbers we " broken; but these and all other defects had be^, at last r^paTred and she was noxv.n a better condition for towing than she had originally been. The other boats had also been put in order lie collection of natural history had been increased, and the spoiling had on the whole been successful. In addition to our I v- .ng foxes, we had tamed a hare so as to stay in the cabin with ^s iNot many observations had been ir.ade this month, as all travel- ling by and v as impracticable. It was time, too, for taking dow'i and embaikuig our observatory ; while we had no; but eighf week" before us of that short summer which, under our purposes was in reality the only one; after which we should again'^i^compeUed o settle ourselves lor another winter (.f ten months w , 7^' I "*'' ^'"'i ^.^'"IPerature, it remains to add, that the Nighest 4 T 57 pill"!' ' "' ^" ^'"'*' '^' '"*-"'" *■"'■ -""'y ''«ving been 1 ;^"f' '•— '^''^«'' J^''i"c''i vve found that a strong noifherlv breeze l'a.l a ength put the i.e in motion to the eastwai.l ; and it now as Tl!r» ir!;'''r'"'7' ^'"""T'^' interspersed with pools of water. tJ^!i norllfbay. ' "^'''''''''^' 'n'O'-'o.l that it had broken open in Aug. 2. -The thermometer was at Sil" at midnight. ( )n the next nothing seemed wanting but a south wind to disperse the broken thcenectofthe norlhevly .mes was to pack it together, loose a" t xvas. About seventy trout were tak.u in the net: and, on the fol- 13:^ l!;:'"'^''^ '''' "^"''y "« ^"--'"'- '^'^ --ther'c!:. It was still line weather, but the fishery failed ; excepting that we ami a hall Tlir evening o. the 5tli produced a smart shower of ^' ' •'""■' "'^'S"'»D "tany nvepuuiids, was taken, with ■ f 1 ♦ '; .> ■ f - ^ " ii ■ I 'I t im SECOND VOYAGE 01' DISCO\'ERY about twenty others of the ordinary size. Tlie Krusenstern was launched and brought alongside, Aug. 7. — At live in the afternoon, a breeze sprang up and blew fresh from the south-westward for ten hours. This, setting the ice in motion, carried away one of our hawsers, and the ship was forced against the rocks near her; but was soon got off again, and secured, without any damage. This was a sort of return of our labours oi the preceding autumn, but of a very different nature, as we now hoped; since it was the probable commencement of our liberation, as the other was of our imprisonment. This moving ice, however, soon stopped near the shore: further out, it continued in motion lo the northward till two in the afternoon, when the tide carried it back, having now, at this spring, a rise of live feet and a half. Aug. 8.— It was a foggy and rainy day, with variable w inds. Tlic men, in their walk after church, reported that there was much clear water in the large bay, but that there was a ridge between Fury and Hecla islands, and the point. The weather differed little on tlic following day, and on the 1 0th the rain was much heavier. It served to prevent all fishing, nor had our success been very great on tlie preceding ones. The wind was to the north-westward, and became very strong, so as to pack the ice as close as possible. Many seals were seen, and some water taken on board. Aug. 11.— The weather improved : some fish were taken; and a southerly wind caused the ice to move. By the next day, under the same breeze, much more cleared away, so that an extent of two miles of clear water was seen to the northward. A good deal was, however, afterwards brought back by the wind shifting lo the north : nor mdeed .vould the tide have admitted of making an attempt to get out. For many days now, the midnight temperature had been about 38°. Aug. 13. — The observatory was taken on board : the day beiiin calm, and no change in tSie ice. Nor was there any on the 1 Itli. The fishermen were now supplying us with enough for our daily consumption. It - is a memorable day, inasmuch as it was the an- niversary of our first visit to Fury Heach, The thermometer fell (o 34« at night. There was reason, indeed, why the niglit should he- come colder, as the sun was now situated ; but there was less subsi- dence by much, than when it had been far higher, because (he ground was then all covered with snow, and was now clear; tlms retaining some of the heat which it had ac(|uiica during tlie day. Aug. 1 5. — The morning of Sunday had a fa\ ourable aspect, as a westerly breeze had moved the ice from ihe roast ; but it soon changed to the north-east, and all became as it had been before. The first star that welmd yet seen for the summer, ^'apella, WRs visihl- at midnight. The i.iidnight temperature fell to i't". TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ' ^.j^ Aug. 16. — Altera tranquil morning of westerly airs the ui„rl "rH^'"'"^' became a strong breez .rom the^sout h-^^.t b '; as he fde was very low, and the ice aground, there wa no n otio^ the sea, it is well known, makes even the flight of a gull or the risimr ofa porpoise an important event. Whether the va uum of w ie spread lee and snow, when the ship is itself a prilo^er nteld of :renl\T"burr^ ftr^.^ ''^y^^'^^ ^^ ^^t: L derh of ?ht ..'nl V r "'' P'^^'^^'y ^' '^'"''^ »'«'• considering t present lit "'"'^ '"' " ^'"^''^' ^''^ '^P-^-' — ncos of Aug. 19. — A line day, with a northerly breeze, was but a conH Tl^U I '^^P'"'"'' ""^ '"'"« "sh, and the occurrence of rain n.ght, scarcely varied the sameness of the following dav Tl e ^Ist closed another week; and thus did the third week of \,Jut watt ut^ll S ir"r"' "" ^""^j^y' *•'«"«»' t»'e afternoon was mer than it had been for a considerable time. There was an rranae b .t in * V^^' P"'"' ""''''• ^" -^'^"^J^y 'here was change . but in the night the wind increased to a fresh gale from (1.0 northern quarter, and, at daylight next day, the ice wa ' een .^ apid motion to the southward, and packing into the boUomTtI e bay. The inner part of the harbour was thus cleared as tTe coast «^s lor about two miles to the southward ; but .-^ftei wa^lla nTck u .r/l/h: r '";' •=«""»"'%' to blow from the norlh-east- \^a,d, the ice continued to accumulate so on us, U.at a vcv small i" hirtltr''"" '^— "--od-ate in th.mo.ni ^^S Hys\' et :ii:?:,r'r"^"" "" '^'""«^- »»''> "'o subsequent iS™lS"^;n M ""^7?'' ^"'"^ "oHciuK, beyond Lie >"m<..nit success n |„1m„h an.l .shoolmg, iiidndin^ the takiuu nf ;. ■■'■r. .\n„({„rwrrk uasgone; and the nighl (hciniomtt.M hadlii.lr dianged, varying between tW and :i8« '""""^"'^l' ' "'«' "'I"' i»r SOB SECOND VOYAGE OK DISCOVERY Aug. iJ.— Sunday piouuhed something new ; the wind becoming a gale Ironi the north-westward. ThuH the ice began to move witli considerable rapidity, and the Itarbour was once more cleared We tried to console ourselves by recollecting, that on the same day last year, the ground was covered with snow, and the temperature ten degrees lower. Aug. 30. — The ice continued moving to the southward till foui o clock, when it stopped, and, remained stationary the whole day On the lollowuig, there was no change in the weather till eveniiiR when it rained from the westward, with a fresh breeze. We made ready for hauling the ship out into a pool to the northward of us that we might be more in the way of extricating ourselves when the ice should fairly open. And with this was summed up the month ot August. The end of that month also left us eleven months fixed to one spot. Whatever value voyages of discovery may have in these countries, they are certainly purchased at a high price in time, though there were nothing else. We might have circumnavigated the globe m the same period : and I imagine no one was very sanguine about future north-west passages, even should we contrive to make one ourselves. That this was a month of daily and hourly anxiety, of hopes and tears, promise, and non-performance, 1 need not say ; while no record ot feelings could give a picture of them. There were but our weeks of this never assured summer to come; and, really the hope of Its speedy arrival was hy no means great. On many 'past days we had more than hoped, we had almost, expected, that the next day, or the following, or some other not far distant, would re- lease us; and they who reflected most, were perhaps the least easy under tins constantly recurring disappointment. It was my business, at any rate, to keep up the hopes of the men, and, where that might be difhcult, to find them occupations to prevent them from thinking too much of the future. In this, the permission to shoot and fish gave much aid ; while the variety of diet this procured them was also advantageous. Of thoir health, indeed, there was no reason to com- plain. The commencing temperature of this month was promising; but the northerly winds of the latter poi-tion were extremely adverse, since It was the effect of these to pack the ice upon us as fast as it broke up. One conclusion seemed obvious, namely, that the winter in that quarter had been particularly severe ; though we had once thought oihorwisc, when observing how often the temperature rose when the wind blew from this point of (he compass. This was an unfavoiiralile view of things : but there wjis no remcdv. ! need only add, (hat the higliest and lowest unsteady, between tl becoming slack, the advantage of any op( appeared in the ever TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ' g^, rutting some ice at our bows, that we might have no obstruction to our next a tempt. The following day was without change of i ue. est except that more ,ce was cut, and the ship hove a few feet aS' Every thmg, l^jwever, was got on board and stowed. The uevi dav d.d not advance us even a foot. The lakes on shore had no yet frozen, though there was ice on the pools. Sept. 11.— The wind came to the southward, but was not sufficient to move the heavy .ce. The pool between the island and the ma"n was covered w.th thin bay ice, having a very prognosticat „g evi" aspec.; and vhe temperature fell with the setting sua fo 21*^ We St. I went on cutting the .ce, and the ship was hove a little further abead The cold weather seemed really coming on, a. the her mometer by nndnight was 18»; and the shooting of du'ck was now r her a vexa >o„ than otherwise, since we could see that thev wer^ returning to the southward. • JiT it^T'^'*^ '''*"^^' ""^ temperature to-day were very unex- pected: (he thermometer ranging from 16^ to 41» between foui in he monnag and noon. The men who went on shore after church found he wate. nevertheless, completely covered with bay ice ' sept. Id.— 1 here was some damp snow on Monday, and, though t e wnd was southerly, it was light, and had no effect on theTce ! ffh t IK "'^'^1.' 'l^'^ '"' ^•^'P ^^« '^^^^ «bout ten feet ahead f fh. i ? T ^'^ ^" '"* '^""S^ ^«« °«^ f'-^^^n to the union of the separate fragments. The next day was fine; but this was not favourable weather for us who were in want o a gale? Td thM gale, tc o to be of our ov, « choosing. The midday hea Tas h same. The sight of a hare that had been shot was by no means gratifymg, for it had now acquired its winter dress. Sept. 15.— The wind having freshened in the night from the southward tlje ice began to move north, about thefime of h gh water, and, after daylight, it was very loose, and full of lanes and pools. The night tide allowed us to heave some space ahead and day one brought us into live fathoms water, though not two hips length from our position of yesterday. What remained on hore,of iron-work, anchors, and other things, were now, therefore got on board; but that furnished us occupation for the ^hole day' We were consequently ready to start by evening; but the breeze mle'Ialn^ ' '' '"' '"" ^"^''""^ "^ ""'^ dow/ before theUde! Sept. 16.— That wind was of little service to-day, being Ikht and unsteady, between the south and west; but as the^ceTe! us was becoming slack, the ship was hove out two cables' length "oMke aLtf•''.r'^*'P^""^^^ -'g^t— Some la" es 'of water appeared m thf ovan.nn^ ■^]^-'sf *i u- . i , """i rr ip, ciOiig iiir shutx' to the northward. The B^H I : mi- i' ' ;!f (, " •M-i SECONO VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY thermometer was 40° in the day, and 29* at midnight. It fell to 25 before the following morning, and there was an aurora borealis. At daylight we could see that the ice had drifted off the land, but there was still a complete ridge between the ship and a lane of water which led to a point three miles to the northward. About two in the afternoon, however, it seemed to be breaking up; when we immediately cast off, warped through the bay ice around us, and in half an hour, our ship was, at length, once more in clear water, and under sail. Under sail — we scarcely knew how we felt, or whether we quite believed it. He must be a seaman, to feel that the vessel which bounds beneath him, which listens to and obeys the smallest move- ment of his hand, which seems to move but under his will, is a thing of life, a mind conforming to his wishes; not an inert bodv, the sport of winds and waves. But what seaman could feel this as we did, when this creature, which used to carry us buoyantly over the ocean, had been during an entire year immovable as the ice and the rocks around it, helpless, disobedient, dead. It seemed to have revived again to a new life; it once more obeyed us, did whatever we desired; and in addition to all, we too were free. It was the first burst of enjoyment on the recovery of our liberty ; but we were not long in finding, as other pursuers of other liberty have loiind, that it was a freedom which was to bring us no happiness. Thus freed at last, we advanced about three miles; but then finding a ridge of ice, we were obliged to make fast near the point which was at that distance of the north of us; and, in a sufficiently commodious harbour between two icebergs, we passed the night. We shot some grouse on shore, to pass the time, and saw many seals. The thermometer at midnight was 30°. Sept. 18. — In the meantime, the wind came round, unfortunately, to the southward, and, by morning, our passage was blocked up; so that we were compelled to remain. In the offing, it wasswjopins! up and down before the tide ; and, in the evening, as the wind be- came northerly, it went away rapidly once more to the southward. There was much snow to-day, and the land was entirely covered. Four hares that were shot did not much comfort us under this de- tentiou, however they might vary our dinners. Sept. U). — A gale had come on suddenly last night, and, con- tinuing till high water, this forenoon, as it served to raise that tide considerably, our bergs floated, but did not change their po.sition .so much as to destroy our harbour: while the arrival of a l.'.rge floe protected us from a pressure that was now threatening to be con- siderable. Every space was indeed filled by the ice : but as tlio wind eeased, it did not fix, being kept in alternate motion by the tides. TO THE AIICTIC REGIONS. was at as- at niidniKl,? «f ^""day. The Ihermomttor ^^^rJSeJ!:Z^:'Zlf:!' -der a westeny b-ee^e, ice, we were obliged toTut 'aron^H .r "I''' '''^''" ''°""^' ''X "ew more perfectly asl-cd he L7dav bv « P\.^"'' ^f^'^"^'''" ^-«« morning, bringing the ioo in" pon nl' /rf ««"th.easterly one in the settled in the no.ih-north west and t "".""^ '^^"^''^ '' «^ '««f being thus set in rapid mo i^ camTin , ^ ^'"7 ««'«• ^he ice protected us, and LrcoX;, Td ;" T ??''''''''" '^^'-^'^ ^ s.er„ was within twenty yaXot"^^^^^ till onr at the same time forced out of the water K ^''•'.'^'""'^enslern was icebergs which covered us we e nr. • ''''" '^"''^•"^te that the have gone with then int^tj^e Ivt'Tl'^ 'T^' *^'^^^ ''' ^^""'d rocks; each o( then, hut !■ zaX"tE ' "^ r''" ^'''"•^" «" ^''« 'cmperalure fell to IH" and thn 1 '^ ''"'' • ' "^^ ^^'"'■«''- The Sept. 2o.__,t ,,,,,amZVn,l '"^^ '"'^'* ^'''« S«'«- bay seen.ed partial ^'C'/" J^ "^^^ --"-!^^ yet the ice in the harder, we were worse bockcdn H ' r' '"""'"^ '« '^''^^^ ^ven ^'ill a lane of water i./tL' b"v /I 'f " ''^"'''. ^'^""^'^ ^''«'« ^'«« viable: all else was a olid wLrnf '^''7 '^'' T^^ ^'^•'^'' ^-«t«'' •""Oh n.ore n.oderate. I ^ f't"rc, however, no more than l-i' all oi.. {'? ^" '" ''^^ "'«''^' '-""' ^'« islands that were next „, ' j, ut[^''' ''[''''''' T''''' •'^•^^" ^'^' '^^ - that, ha.l we not ^.Zuu^^^^ "::^' '"l l^':: '"""^-'"S d^.v ^ progress u. the norlh««rd '"'""'''' '^« ""S»'t have made some ye5l;t;;r:;:ir^^^^^^ il^' ^'S -^ ^" y-^ wa,er or ^vcre also ccu.enled (OKclhc, h. c I s'-'-roi'idrng hummocks s'orm could separate ll^ n""t '' '"?"?' "''^^ ""''''"f? h"t a 'ore last passing awa .d 1\^T' "^ " '"''''^'"'" ^^^•o there- 7- -> as to a(,ain a Lu:b , , ' « "'' ri] "''' '"^ '"' ^'"""kI' the 'he better part of an . ! J, T '"'^t *" ^'''''' '''"' '^""'« f"'' "•'J a« there were also n /.^ L-.- !:!"' '''''."' *" ^'^ '-• ''->' 'J^ick ; -■') -...r p.ec.« m tie uay, our progress '.{04 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY was necessarily very slow, and the labour hard. I'here was ikh wind enough to prevent the formation of bay ice, Sept. 30. — I nder the continuance of the same low temperadiro, (he whole sea was now covered with ice. There was no lonffci , therefore, occasion either to hope or fear: and there was an end lo all anxiety at least. The agitation under which we had so hui^ laboured had subsided into the repose of absolute certainty. Oui winter prison was before us ; and all that we had now to do, was to reach it, sot up our amphibious house, and, with one foot on sea and one on shore, " take patience to ourselves." Though we had done much, we still, however, found it very liaid work to cut through the remainder of this ice, which, though hui newly formed, was already sixteen inches thick, independently of ilip broken pieces from the former winter that were mixed with it, Thence, what we had cut off was to be lifted to the suriace, as ii could not be sunk under the field ; and, in consequence, we only made eighteen feet way in this and the preceding day ; a slow navi- gation, though, fortunately, our harbour was not very far off. It seemed almost a fated period for us; as it was the very annivers;ii'\ of the day which had iixed us not three miles from the spot wliirh we were now seeking to occupy ; while we were perhaps afzaiii captives — and who could conjecture?— for another year. It wn- the end of September; but the summary of September, 1830, is orn of the least agreeable that I have yet to record. It was now winter, without dispute. Theoretically, it ouglil ii' liave been such ; and that it was practically so, we had long Imtii sure, whatever efforts might have been made to flatter the nu'ii, m ourselves, that it was otherwise. It had been a busy and a laborioib month; but it was busy idleness, as far as any result had followcil, and all the labour had produced no return. It was, in even sense, a wasted nu)nth, and it had been an amply provoking otio: there was not one in all the preceding year in which we had imi done something useful, ur at least made preparations for it; tliih binding occupation (hat satisfied us; while there was not one wliidi had not held out, what was even lielter, hopes, and those iiio!-! lively when the cham-e of release was most distant. We had now to hope ngaiii, for nearly another year; to count months, wt-rko. even days, yet w itii less confidence than we had done during (he lii-i winter. lie who can hope a second lime as he diir conlentedness, or rather re- flignntion, exceeded what i had an(icipiitpd. It wris my business li> TO THE ARCTIC HEOIONR Ma show them the brighter hide of (liis ni,.h,..,. i • . success in discovery, the eve,- h- , d .' ^ ''''^T!'"'"!'"^ «"'' rortable home whid. we hU w h a w "' T"' f?' ^'"^ ^'«'"- .ockofprovisio„s,our,oodhoiX-ra^^:^^^^ which we slioiild now secure, as it wim ,.,.o ni T i ' "" prove nmch rm>re easy to o^iZl:^^^:^' Brtl" bngh side of hfe is not easily seen through (he da k one ' and F I. T therefore, to trust to time and iiahii ,.. .J i "** , ""'^' ^"^ I had, own resources and the eon^„ u ;„ ' ',; V'"ZV^'' "^"'' ""'" we expected to be bv them S C "'^ "«''^^«' «"Pplied, as with the power of rl„ w ";,; I'^^S^^^ before long, pass on, a^d the present evils i^^^^^^^^^^^^^ "^^ '^"'^' ^'^ — '<' tember; and thus, being an eaX wbfe/nl P'""'^',"^ '*^'^''- worse one. The highest and tin .1 \x '" ^ommd to be a r>" plus, and the » 'can ^T^Stn/s^ :,'.'; " ^'''''!' ^^''^ ^^ ' «"'' l.een 50' and 8» plus and the Lli "'"'""!;''''?'*" ^''''^^ ''«*^ of 1829, there weW several lb! f .'''""■ *" ^'"^ September cleared the coU^l^^t!^ tr; 'f -f"-' -"^h, which but in the present one, ther^C no 1. n . fu'' ^' T'^^'''^ ' as the rocks themselves. ** "'" *-"'"'"« *«««""» I need not in this summary, g<, back to any general record of th*. I w :iu.i SKrOND VOYAGE OF DrSCOVKIiY CHAPTER XXXIV. LnhoiiP in Cutting througli the Ice — Beeoine fixed for tlie Winter— Summnry oi the IMontii. Oct. 1 . — This month commenced with clear weailier, and, in ihr (;oiii'se of the day, a stronj; hreczc from tin; westward bioke up so much of the bay ice to the north-east as to disphiy a hllle^ar water It made no impression, liowcver, on the tough ice whicli *vas ill tached to the land; and one of the hergs near us having split miilcr our quarter, we received a violent concussion. The laboiu" of cultiii; our way was renewed, and w itii ralher r>ctter siuicess. The tlu^nmi meter was 12" at nigiit. On Saturday there was little change, except that our labour was harder; and in this position wo endnl another week. Oct. U. — \Vg were obliged to persevere in the same tedious (oil, and the whole gain was but sixteen feel, which, however, releascil us from the pressure of the icebergs. This had been. very iiicoii- venieiU, if not more; siiu;e they rose above her gunwale, and alsd lifted her up in such a manniT as to sus|)end her three or four foci higher than the water which she Ihc northward, so as again to show some clear water. The ship \vit> cut in as jar as twenty feet more; being thus much nearer (o oiii intended pcsition lor the w inter. lU'ing calm and clear at night, iIk' temperature fell lo 10 . Oct. 7. — VVc advanced lifty feet this day, itut had only six IW'i water at the ebb: though we were now at length ileal- of (ho heaw ice. Towards the following morning, the thermometer fell to 5; and, at daylight, there was notanatom of water to be seen inati\«li- r(H;ti()n. All was ice; and it is remarkable (hat (his day was tin aiiniverHnry of (he same event in the preceding year. We liowcvi i TO TMI-: ARCTIC UEGIOSS. ^°; iHu ti.e ..ai.n- wa::;;,;;!3'"iv <••• IkxI «;.-iutoiy uc.co.a;i;.i, "l^;';;;^n ^Vl^T' "'"''^ " ^^- l'l.»o« u here slio rould llo-.f ,v f . "'"'"''' ''^ '"'■"'"^''•J '«> ' '■^'1'" ^J.»y; ami I round, .hen on . bo Jil n ' '"■'""f"'/'^"- '''"' "I"'" (Ik> rocks, Ihonal (|,(> n . . ' "" '"" ""'''*^'' ''"' ^""w «r.N u iih snow, nul^ . 1^ l^''^"""'" ^'"7 ^^'^ ^ Kah- (Von. .h.- •'^ '"i«J>"f;i.<. lo o nb "'7""'""^"''' '" • •■^'> and at la.t to ^J -""«. clear water. Tl ^sbi , u . *^ ^'^m'" "''' '*' ^^ "''^''«'^v li"ty-livo on ibc lollo m.k U f.^rT'''^;' ''"> '^''^' ^'''-'"v, and ''!'« weather ^^a. v«.i?b |e ,„ , .1 ""' ^'^ ''"•'' ^»' ''^'^ ^^'»'«'-- ^,^^,^, .able, and .be tberu.on.eter did >..l w.alenaljy 'l'«t (be clear water ', ib^ .. 2r ^. 1'"".' "." "'" ^'""*'">' ^'"'1 «"W I ""HI 1,1 IIH" iiorinward bad <>ii 'ii-.r<.,i ti r n . ''•'> '^"'" l>'<'ii»v.s was thirty; while be ice w I * '"' '^^ 1"^^ "'K ^™::M'^r:,;:;.':,;;;i:!';;!- ''■';i".;^-"s,f^i:;; .^■.};i- *.,,.,, :i;;,,:,; r::::;;:;^:, ■•■ "••■ --. «„. '"■Hnaiitu; :;;'i:i;;;;i';;:';.':';.;;,;"i' *■'" - "•■Kain.,, .,,:,,, iiii> I'll lie follow A a» forty feet, and wo bad eiKirelv I ii Oiig .Hair, with lost ki.rj.l ,.r '"« 'Horning ;bu(, in (I 10 fV "iiiow, ini|i»'ded ibis v\(Hi C'"»K, wo gained fonrtoeii Co, on ^» •io» 3()S SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY whioh enabled us very nearly to float at low water. On (lie next day \vc^ r,ained as many more. During these four days the weather had varied much, and the temperature changed with it ; but it was ge- nerally higher than it had lately been, and was this night at 21°. Oct. — 24. It was necessary again to occupy Sunday, as before; and the work was harder than usual, since the ice was about sixteen feet thick. It was too heavy, therefore, to lift, even when it was cut. nor could we sink it : so that we were obliged to cut a space for the fragments in the thinner surrounding field, that we might lodge them on it, and thus make room to pass by. What was done, was not, however, finished in time to enable us to heave the ship any furthei in advance. Oct. 25. — Tliis was a fine clear day, oiit the thermometer fell just below zero. Our apparently endless work was resumed ; and on the following day the heavy piece in our way was removed, and the place for its reception was cut, so as to allow us to advance forl\ feel. On the next we gained fifty, and were at length afloat at low water. Wc had seen a good many hares, foxes, and birds, for sonic days past, during our walks on the shore, but had shot littlf or nothing. Oct. 28. — The wer-her seemed to have seriously changed this day ; the temperatiire, from zero, in ihe morning, went down to minus 10' at night. The snow on shore was knee deep, and made walking very laborious. We gained but thirt-^en feet; the ice beini,' very thick, and freezing again as fast as it was cut. On the next we advanced fourteen more, so as to have eleven feet at low water. I'here was some at night, and the temperature rose to 6 " plus. Oct. 30. — We now cut six feet further; it was not much, and there were two hundred yards remaining before we could obtain deeper water or a better po&ition, being work for a hundred more days, at the same rate. But the ice was daily becoming so nuicli thicker, that we could not hope to make any impression on it during that time, at all proportional to what we had already affected; and as our place was at least not very unsafe, nemmed in as we were all round by ice, we concluded on putting an end to our labours and renuiining as we were. We could, therefore, at length make Snn- day a day of prayer and rest, nor was that less acceptobic than ne- cessary. The summary of October can be little but the abstract of our la- bours. Since the whole month had been employed in making a worse than tortoise progress, theentire amount of which, after all our toils, was but eight hundred and fifty feet. We had not even, with all this, reached the place that we had intended; we were, iiowevcr, not VIM y far from it, arid vvcn- ronipclini to hr- a. content s~ '■?<" could. I believe that some of uscould not help calculating the munbei Salt beef liS44 lb. snlt V"«mi(y ot migar, Mioi TO THE ARCTIC HEGIONs. .^„g been found to ''write it " ^ ^' ' ''"'^' •"*^'''^' *^"« '"«» '^«ve thickness of the ice aAdoA iTT^ c, S'^dually-incieasinK not be sunk n 1 1 i ^ necessity of heaving up what could rendered thialt^^^^^^^^^^^ ^"' '' l!" «^'^" --- --^'-N seemed to c?llfo.rtSaa,^^^^^^^^ "''' P*"''**'^' '^'' ^-' man Nr. «»o' i . ""'^ display the perseverance of eveiv for general rerdeis-TtTfi./"*'!^^^ ''^^« ""'« '"Merest I Andrew^, lour, 0,,j,^.„,„^i,,. 'turys flour 8 cankH, containing Bet-chy'sHuet 3011,. FnryH.lo. 180=1080 Mr f Bedweli'H raisin, 700, bread l300==Zol Salt beer 8844 lb. salt pork 5350 lb. =8194 Preserved meals .,,.„ ^"KtirShdH. and 3104 1U2 f Pro. for 2 years for 83 nie',i=19,.'tl | . - Keinainingon board 17,301 [ f-ess than lor 2 years. . 2150 |Bi-t with ;, allow anre for waste will only last to June 1, 1832. Proportionofsalt beer, pork, Jind preserved meat roi'27 ' 1 2,(10 1 — Heniaining on board 13,2.00 lb. „ K..ry 21 I,: Hi4i/r "'"'^''"' ""■' "'• ,,,, ! •'••"■•"-••i"" •'•'• 'i Noars i. Molasses 1 cask , ' * **''•' ll81)NiirplMN lb. „,. I „ elndiojj waste Mr ^ itrmaiiiing on lioird. V"an.i,y „, s,.g«r. short of 2 years. fr„.„ October 1, IH30 2828 2738 W less ;!lo SECOND VOYAGE OF DlSCO\E[iY Cocoa c;iscs, (ciiiied Bcdwell, 505 ; Fu"y 2^ h.-n'i'cls, 014^1'20'J lb. Pl'opoiiKiii for i years 1371 II). Diff. Ki'i lb. less than "i year's projjortioii. But the 102 short for *i years made {;ood by tea i elicsl, 82 lb. j ditto, 1 1 II which V ill complete tea and cocoa I'lr two years. I'eas, nilit, 7^ cask, 18 bush. (5 gall. ; round, do, 1 bag, 3 busli. gall. =22 biisl, I gall. Proportion for two years, 32 bush. 1 gall. = short of tw o years, 10 Imsli, Spirifs, rum, liO gall.; Uicc, 230 lb. ; Lemon-jiui?c fur one year at the i»resuii allowance. Pickles 4 small casks; sliced lemon 2 cases ; Mustard 2 boxes; Barley 2 casks and 5 jars. This is exclusive of preserved soups, of which we have 100 gall , which, togclln i with a cask of wine, are reserved for the sick. Finding, therefore, that we should have provisions at the allowance just sutVicient to support nature in this climate, uii- 111 the perioi! in 1S32, when we must have either re;iched the Fury's store groinnl where there are .si ill some provisions left, or must abandon the shij) (o save our lives, wo "<; ihcnnoiiifttcr W 'lie only iioiitcablt TO Tllli AitCTIC UHGIONS. 3il (vHAPTEFt X.WV. Transaction. i„ Novcn.bcr, 1830-.S.,m..ary of tha, Mo.nl-Vroc.cd;,,, ,., n, «^cuil,cr, will, a SuHiiiiary. •"it«-Uiii(,s in De- not work ■™'id"''r,;' h" ''"'■'' '" ']'" '■""'"""• "'■^' 'I'" "«'° •=""W ll,» 'W, ll,^v t^^ ;• ""■«,":»» l'l™'> "I work in ll,» l,„|,|. ()„ . I Pi„; t ^'''} '""''' '"*^« '"'•^^» •^<>""' ••"l^i'l'-' yo.s(o,clay. b,„ tli,Ml!r; .I.^''~f ' Ti; " "'•'•"' '""' ''•'"' ^"»^'''V, but coU\ enough a^ lii iuoimdfi icil It) iiiiun-i yyj, ^ j,, «J only uoiittablc cvem. Tiwy i,atl be IB"' aiaor.i boicalis \va.- tn rail' oi abMiK (or a long Itf ii> if if 1 m 312 SKCOND V(>YA(ai OF DlSCOVIiUY time. A fiie-liole was cut in the ice on Monday, and the em- bankment went on. An overcast sky on the next day caused the llierniometcr to rise live or six degrees, but tliere was otherwise no change, either in the weather or our proceedings. Nov. 17. — Things were only varied this day by a little snow, and by our men being employed in preparations lor tlie observatory, which they were occupied in constructing during the following day and the next, when it became cold enough to depress the thermo- meter to minus 30°. On the 20th the labour of observation re- commenced, and some transits were noted. IT the journal of a week is thus meagre, there is nothing new to be remarked respecting Sundav. Nov. 22.— The chief variety of this day was the taking of a black fox in the trap; being the first that we had seen this season. It was young and starved ; and immediately devoured what was offered ; we gave it the place which had been rendered vacant by the death of a former white one. A pillar for the thermometer was erected on the following day. The ordinary works went on as usual ; the weather gradually becoming colder, though clear ; and thus several transists were obtained. Nov. 25.— The thermometer was at IW* minus, and the mercury froze for the first time. It has been thought that mercury expanded on cooling, like many other metals, and would therefore break the bulb of a thermometer. This does not happen; and therefore it contracts instead of expanding, like lead, tin, and many more. The sun did not rise above the southern hills to-day; and was therefore not seen from the ship, though visible from the higher grounds on shore ; it was the first warning of a very long night to come. Nov. 26.— The two last days of this week were without interest or variety. The weather was alternately gloomy and clear, now and then threatening snow, and the thermometer rose to minus lfl». On Sunday it it was 1 !•, and the history of the rest of that day is as usual. On the preceding, the work of embarking, and other mat- ters, had been going on. Nov. 29.— The morning being mild and fine, I walked to the place where the ship had wintered during the last season. I fouwl that our old harbour was much more hampered with heavy ice than it had then been: as was the case equally, with the bay. 1 cer- tainly thought our present one preferable, independently of the fact of its being so much further to the north, which was our intended direction. It, indeed, seems trifling to talk of two or three miles as a great space gained ; but when it is recollected that we were a month navigating scarcely three hundred ynrds, and (hat the luckv chance of being present when and where the ice opens, be that but TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 3,3 for an hour or two, ^uay turn the balance between a free escape and a winters .mpnsonment in this -thick-ribbed ice." even tZ^t^ were a subject of congratulation. I now thought it advisable to set up some direction posts for the nat.ves,as .t was probable they would come here before bng to seek lor the sh.p. These marks simply pointed to her present diIpp an that was sufficient We migU even have conolu'ded tf heC would seek for us l.Il they found us. since their interest in the matter was greater than ours as far as opinions went, at least tholh ours was not small, when we expected to obtain fresh prov 2s IL thTLl'k ' "" '''•"• ' "" "^'^^«'- -'-'' «- '--"one; Nov. 30.-Yesterday and this day the men lodged the powder in a magazme. which they had constructed on shofe. Itwara ttne day and we went to the mountains to look for the sun, but a fog- tthif to"a1d trf'"''- ""'rr ^ «*«-'«ff was'erected To was from I ^ to 18" m^' '" ^'"'^'"S the ship. The temperature was irom i i to 18" m.nus. It was the end of another month but Its summary .s not such as to present any variety or interest ' In point of temperature, .t had promised favourably as far as the tenth ; but, after that, the weather became very severe, thouRh recovering a little towards the end. The mean was 4X e s thfa in the las corresponding month. The mercury froze also on the twenty-fifth ; and though some bad mercury had frozen wUh us on the seventeenth of December, when the Impe Ire wa b" 39 TaTtor °"^"" "- ;?-*^^°''' «f •»-"-' 'hat it reached 39 , 80 as to freeze that which was pure. The period of the real l;TJ^;lTZlt'^'- ''- ^- — ' ^'^-^ 'herXe „.f*h'',rr''^'''^V''^ meteorological tables to an appendix,! have not hMherto introduced any such record into the journal of our ransactions ; but as many readers will never cdnsu t those, I here r^'m^ir^hl^te^ ill I SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVKKY Af,strocl nl the n,:;,Uter of the ThcmwmeU;- , Inlen hoitrhi h,j the ndrr ,.) //, n atch, mill compared with IH'it), on the Ice. is:jo ToNi -10°.5f)!)l To iMitliiiglu— 10°.«)716 To Noon — '-" "^ Mivn r.clu» Zero. MranufMii. Mnn of Min. Mean o( Mm — 10='.774305 0°.'IOO IS^SSS (ToMidnigl iglK— ()<'.1277 ^ 0^.050600 I'-.SHS IP. 133 l)i(T. ofTcmp. ) ,__ 1829-30. J-l'-'J'A' C15 4°.7-23,015 5 .016 4^200 JO^WHi ■l°.60H;i Temperature uf Uic llarutnetir aiiii Clironometcr n„.,.„ -.1 A.M. 3'J.OS] o« no ( '^^'^ ™*'''"' 3" 0''^2«3 } 1830 mean 40. 1-',, !•• 6 ». M. 30.03663) at .5 p. m. 41.80 J Ikiiii; lower in 1831) than 1829, by 4 degrees and 7, &c ill 9 A. M. 30.00753) ii' 5 r. M. 30.03663 ) Tk Tcniperalnre of the lower deck was 15 '—of my cabin 34^— and of the caltiii 50 We haJ no occasion to alter our opinion of our harbour, as to good or evil. Our vessel was out of the stream of the diilt ice, whenever it should move, and that was a most iuinortaiil coHsidcralion. Tlio whole month had been occupied in housing the ship, build ing the embankments, and levelling the hummocks of ice near us ; and liaving now had more practice, we had done our work betioi than in the preceding year. The lower deck had been rendereti lighter and more comfortable by a coat of white paint. The observatory had been erected on a rock as near to the ship as possible, and its construction had been much imj)roved, by snow walls, and a snow passage with double doors, llie transit instrument had given a few observations. Our sporting had proved as little successful as possible, being limited to the cu (rapped fo.x. The rcgidarity of the school had been grievously interrupted U\ our laibours ;^ but the uiost backward were kept to their lessons anti I iiad reason to believe that the perfect health of the men was not a little owing to the incessant exercise which kept both tho mind and body fully occupied. Dec. 1. — It was a mild commencement of December to the fccl- jngs; but the thermometer ranged between minus 12" and 22". The ice on the lake was two feet and a half thick. We pursued in vain two willow partridges ; but the time for sporting was now vciy much contracted, even had there been game, since it became ''"•'' '•««'''e"c<'' to know the actual fall of ami's, o?::j;r" ''""•'"' ■"'^"'"^ "'"^^ "'^^'''^••" -^^-^ '|;|t if ..udcr a vague o.Umatc from merAccollcctions or obscr- watni;!! T'l ' ''' had r.u.i.h..od thi. a cou„lr^ in winch much The n",.' i..,/. .'. '^"•V'*^,""".^ >*■■;*' ^^^' "iight nor be very wrong ^"♦' r*»^. icg.slry. which is but the usual notmg of weather, gives 316 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY many days of snow or rain. Future observer, if future observer should ever have such opportunities, must try to determine whal the Jactis; but whatever tl^at may prove, the rain that falls here is 01 Jiltle use, smce it has no duty to perform for vegetation; and if the snow protects anything, it is a soil without plants to derive benefit, or rocks which are alike indifferent to rain or droucht, heit or cold. ° ' Our tanks had now once more come into full use, since the Cleaning thenri on Saturday night produced three bushels and a hal ol ice. That was a proof that we were warm enough between decks,|^ and the comfort was disputed by no one. I formerlv described the nature of this contrivance, when I suggested also the principle on which it acted ; comparing it to the condenser of Die usual steam engine. But I ought then to have said what I may do now, namely, that by this very simple expedient, all necessity lor the operose means formerly adopted for preserving the comfoii 01 the nien between decks has been superseded. It is well remem- bered that none of the expensive contrivances in cork linings, oi Whatever else, prevented that condensation of steam from the human and other evaporation within the ship, which caused a per- petual dripping of water, and rendered the situation of the people most uncomfortable, particularly in their sleeping places. I do not wish to pass any censure on those who suggested those contri- vances, and am the less entitled to do this, when my own ship in the voyage ol 1818 was not free from the evil in question, and When the present scheme had not occurred to me. But having now been fully tried, and with the most perfect success, I may salely recommend it among those fittings which should be applied ^'^^''y ship undertaking a voyage in those northern regions. liec. o— The week was ended in the usual manner ; and the day 01 rest and religion was kept in the way from which we made it a rule never to deviate when it could be avoided. The 6th produced no change worth ivcording: too many ol these records, indeed, are but registries of labour, of which the Identity is tiresome, of weather which has not very often much interest, and of temperature which would have as little, were it not interesting to know the state and trace the changes of such a cli- mate as this, which does not seem exceeded in badness by any other yet recorded, whatever rivals it may have. Man is a strange animal when he can live in so many different countries, in climates 80 opposed, and on food so diverse. He would be a still stranger one, it, having ever«known another country (I need not say a better, when there cannot be a worse), he had made a voluntary S^^'A® . ^''^^merica of Prince Regent's inlet. But he has con- Wasidvf hither, wheucever he might have come; if lie TO TUB AROTIC HEGIONS. evwIdiowbnnniiM, lieliasleamedlopieferfisl.nil 1,.. j , . ...b..,„,e i;,r b.„,bo„., a„J blubber I t°ealport''°"" al»olbalaMo|.«kin is a moie fiuinR dress Ibannfr, ' """« and I ,a. snow „,a, be ,„bsli,„,ed f"f wS a Jstoae " bif'''"""' forgelling 10 brinn will, him (ire, and whal is belier »■ I' ""' n.ng as 1,0 c.„ conyer, ,„ use, be has made hiS aT Z"± ™"; I. so at home, Iba. he would envy no man o( a"v clnlnv 1' ""'' co.m.ry of any man, even .h„/gh he knew wha TevLre '"'. wbal bey possessed. Is not the animal as vaTn of himsE A".'' s"::n'e°\rj ^;t\r"r:e"tat":h' °*''??''^» '-- isnora,,. people i. co^^l^rl'llZwTlfJ::^''^ was a glorious golden meridian orfniligi. and sun T ll he crimson clouds were brilliant with cml rarely seen ?n/h/'* favoured climate of our own country ^ " ^^^ ™°''« varied between Wan,] 10" ».• "'^^J^^^g^s ol the thermometer .»o.her:7ero°f ir.XTho'wt zro/^d^;'™'"^'"- °f ■Lelerm Sheriffs harbour not^misappUed """' >"""'' "■»"«'" ..w rhe IrtbXtttn" "tnTvTkfs'",™"'*"''""'-- dear, and there waS Tiro™ ft gtaf nt^' Tn Tu" ^ here w«. little eh.nge in the now unavoidable samene°o?ou'li rapations and our amusements. On this and m,nl, „f^ \, "'' .racked animal, and did not see them? ^ar^wTL and d? *! lire; watched for the invisible sun that we mighfat £ ll °° ™, still in existence, and were not sorry when (? eann". sav^h'^ «av wasdonft. whoi.i.,.ii„„. ":~L'^ t - « (," cannot say the mother of our own' ia'ys byVoin^'.o w!""" "' "■""" " ''""' '='"' 3t» .SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Dec.l5.— AsUoiig breeze, with snow, formed a soil of vanety jns! now; but it imprisoned the men, and (hat wasan evil. Noone is mm It «he belter for thinking: (hose who had nothing very <;iieprini,M. lliinkof,wcreaKvays (he worse. They vvhoeomman.iedhad howrvoi no great right to believe themselves of a more hopeful and huov.iiii character, than those wiiose business it was to ohey ; whalevi i the fact miglit have been as io either party. They had an olmct in view which the others could scarcely keep in sight : and amhitinn or vanity, or whatever else, looked forward (o a gratilication whi,ii under any success, could be little to those who had only to follow as they were directed: participating the labour, yet, if not the fame so also, be it remarked, free of all anxiety, and subject to no re- sponsibility. Dec. H).— There was little to note this day hut a slender auron The weather and the temperature scarcely diOered so nmch from what they had generally been for some time, as to require nolir.- for any other object than that of a register. The present work (u the men was to cover the boats with snow, for the purpose of pi, tecting them from the weather. A strong gale interrupted this, Imi, did not last beyond (he day. Yet it began again on (he follow iiii., though soon moderating, and giviuj-, us the lemainder of Satuid ^ for our several works, now not requiring notice. On shore, llii' effect was to harden the snow so that it could generally bear om weight, and to bare ilie rocks in sucli \ manner as io alter (he an pearance of the land. Sunday was passed as it ought to bo : as we had always pas.«,ed it whenever it was in our power. Dec.SO.—lflliisday was without aiaik, it was onein which we com pared the tides that we had observed. Nothing buta tide-table, whi. h 1 need not give, wmiMmaketheirsisigularirregularitysuiricienlly con- spicuous. I noticed I he same facts last year, and they were even more remarkable in the present. Every thing was out of rule : whatever (he moon might ell'cc(, the counteracting causes, in winds, currents, icc, and perhaps more, set all calculadons at delianc.', It was a high or alow tide whenever it chose to be; and that wa> nearly all we know of the matter. Dec. 21.— In the calendar, this was the shortest day; (hat w.b tolerably mdiffereut to us, who had no day at all ; bii'l as the sun attained i(s greatest elongations at midnight, (his and the following were, (o us, ol eipial lengths. The teinpera(uro was as low as 2? minus, and rose (o •>!• (m the succeeding, which was stormy. To condrm what 1 have just said of the tides, that of to-day rose, in the forenoon, Imt one inch. Deo. aa.— The gale blew hard till night, but ceased so as Io leave m a line morning. It was even calm and pleasant; and this gale. «>y slill lui t.icr !)ai ing tlu- rocks and iiliing ihu raviuru wiih snow . TO TIIR AUCTIC HEGIONH. whicl. had aflcrwaids liardoiip.) ii.,wh...n i 'I'an ever, and almost agreoale T .u ""'" ?"''"« '"«''« '^^Y shore, (o amuse us: foM.s, a ,, j .r^M ''7'J'^^^'«^«'''«" nso, and that was all. It , lik 1 U 1 T '"*' f'""^'^ «''«'- .ask and a labour rathe- tl^u foau o Ztl, ''' ^''""^'''^ '^"'^ '"^ more for them than us. Tho n d. t n.: '"''' "^'^^^^a'T, and • Dec. 25.-_A violent sto.m nrl^^ t« "poraturo was minus I8» Christmas day, b t al 111 " ^J 'eir'' ""' ^"''' '''^ P^-^^e ol immediately following, gave ^803^/^^? '" '"'^''"'- Sunday, Jay the usual works tefe resurS Tl^ ''''."'' ' '"^ "" ^^"•'- 'l-ing these three days the av at .old T'' !'" ""P'*^^^^'' «"«> '•'Sing to 0" with snow and then dS.;'' "'fi^.^as minus 20", ^.-ones. Thorewasiittio,oma:::ij;:s:/;r:;:;;^ TlK f'-o«tinthe,a„k to 1^^^^^^^ once more, 'ound the largest quanti 71 ' , " ''t^'' 'T', ^^''"' ^^« '-' rangements in good order uil i^. I » ''^ '"'' ^"^ «"'• ar- a( N\hich to ro.nlue t T.\i'll ' r '•'''''^"n«blo temperature Tl.e month ami to en.- t^^rL'ti" "^ "?'! "'*^" ''''^-'•«" ''^r " ^vas the highest tide ^at H LZ ''' ""/'''•"> '^^"''^ ^^^-^ff'^'- and a half. '^ ''' ''''^ >•-'' *•''''«. ''♦-'"'g «iearly eight feel "'<' year, if is hi ^.^ wI^hZ^ ''TT^'^'' '-"sactioL of -.' although thesid:;;;l;t'i:;'!;''*'''^['-d'-- are ol great importance, since Ih- -^ « " KC.graph.c.W space, (hey '"vesligaticm as to render in, IV • T'T''^ "'^' ''"'i'-^ '>' ''""c, inasinglesc.son ... ' i . .'""'''' "'''«' '"*''"ains to he "- would oti.:^';:i;ari.::.r!; •- «•'"-'"" -<> -pen^: -'Perior ...xperienoe ofV^,.n.n,« il f " '" y'"^''' '•> 'l'- «nd the more cspeciallv becaul bo 7 '".""','*""' "I navigation; *i'i' ti'i« great inle. he e"' I e '"r""'"'' ^^''^^ «''-'l"«'"f<'' IJ^'ilo.-^.l.an laborious, ul^ni, III;'','" /I'T"!'"^ '"" '-'' ''•••nnel w(.»ld clear aw-u ... " ''""'" "'''*' "'" '^-^ '•• H.o ,.roat a progres. or Zl '"."" ?"' '" ''""*''«' "« «•> "'ake a" "-'"-s HsL Thti^ ";•::;• '-^ "'" ""'"« •'«'«• -«» -i,i „ . ^Ir^"' ^vhelher we u gh, ' Iv; ''"" T'."^' """ ''^'""^ '""» """•'• Pla.., will neve, i;rL.:;;.'7 ''"'^*' "'""'•'''•''«•' '-y "••opting the i he ah 'P appeared to have HttflTerrd Home damage by being RO iiii SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY long nnd so ofien aground, since she was again leaky. But oui winter accommodations were perfect, and the men seemed as healthy as possible; having apparently profited by our new system of diet. If the regular exercise contributed to this, that was condu- cive to another good end ; since the men would thus be well trained for travelling by the time the season should arrive. Though the weather had been often very cold, the temperature was very changeable ; nor was the mean so low as that in the last December, by four degrees. That mean is minus 20.24 ; the highest temperature was plus 6°, and the lov. ^st, being on the last day of the month, was 47" minus. ftfl »2 N. I« NCWfil. 49 5 w.iao. Wbs.s ■JO 3 s.'ss. SbE. 3. 1 3 feJ3. EbN.O. 7 NI 3 I I "ss n Toll fn hng 00 do 720^30 ABSTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. JANUARY, 1830. 1 3J N.age. 30 W.W. 4 I 7 e.i. no NbW.WS. WbSTo. SblTO. RbWO. I 06 NNW.I87 wswo I 6 S8B. ». eNE.'lO NWbN.O. SWbW.O. 0_ "Stabs. 0. "NMETo. 3 J NW.fiS. 1 1 9 5W.2M. _5 seTii. ne:o. NWbW.O. "SWbS' _ SSbB. 0. NEbN. 0. WNW.O. 66 "sswrijo _ ISE. 0. "NNE71 WbN.O. sbWro. tbS70. mETo NWy=», SWy. ^230 SEy ^ f.'.i NEy. =« Total (iW buiira. H7 do. calm. 744^31 UKjt Hi<(heal, Inweit, and mean t _5_4!V— 37.3A timpprHfiire / Total force of tue Wind . . . 16M Hean force of the Wind. A3.41 FEBRUARY, 1830. «C W:'847. 17 W.n. OB NbW.O. _0 WESTu 3 NK^.8. 7 WiW.l5. 'ssb: «. t) NWbW.O. SWbW.O. "feEbS' 0. ffyvr R7 8w:i&3. a "iro. 30 NWbW.O. IWbSo. _ 8EbB. 4 H WTiw:o. in 8SW"0» TB8g~0 7 3 Wbf^.O. SbVTo I UHTa t3 KbS"l» BNTCm NBbB.O. "Wii "NEbN: 145. "NNCIB6. NEffO." NWy=liil SWy J II SEy -W NEy_=IM 4«l Total 491 houra 13 do wind yble 100 do. r.alni WiaM dayi lUlthrit, Inwdit, and mean \ u. | ' 47—39 9 tPinitrrafiir** . . f ' Total force of the Wind . . lOH Hean force of the Wind »M MARCH, l«3«. Ill 44 w:8s. 93 ITM I 4 XTM 8 Nh^.« r WbSO 1EI~o ItbH.O nnWoo. I 3 W8W.JS. 4 SdB. 4 4 ftNC4 Total MO hour*. 10< d» ralm. jJWbfTo SWbW.O. "HKbiTO. HkbCTt. 44 KV/m 7 I iW(7 4 iir4 4 .1 HW.vr. rJWbW.o 4 swsr 4. ~Ve:bE~ 0, I TnB)B:* I "MW~47 « E8i5~0. 4 I T1NK"9» « WbJJO. 8 «6w:8 l'bi7o no:*. NWy-Jli BWy ^l« SEy. .SI NBy :!*■■ ID HlnhMt, Inweil, and mean I '4-n-4t'jei temperature I Total force of tbr Wind . . . M ^Jt i N,I46. NbW'M 49 Vt'.IIS. WbTo »_« S.79 'SbE" 13 «9 2 E I9», tebjTs. 7 I NN\ 24 wsv "SSE ENI .^Total. 700 hoiin 44 do. ci 74r-3l di N. IM 82 iubw 40 n NNW WJ77 ]8 WbH. » W8W. 3 8.48 ShE. A SSE. 1 ft ri4 rthff 1 1 « enk: 7,l "•17 hnura JJ do wind IW do. ralm »«4ljl daya TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. nsi ^« it 49 5 w.iao. WBs~5 ■JO S.M 13 3 SbE. 3. EEro. ?< NNW.H8. mVbTTo 3 4 WSW.150 SVVbW.O J s SSE ENE.O 68 Total. WO honri. Mdocalm 720^30 day. U "SEbS feNbE"o 0. APHIL, 1830. JJ ^^■m. NWbw.o .'-9 SW 218. 'SWbS '2 SE. 22 sEbE." A 6 3 (, ^E. 188. -TTJEbN; 9, 20 WNIV7« 29 SSW.~Tfi ~ESE. «. I I !, ■^ne:308 u WbNA 4 SbW'l9 EbS."o JfiiE « Total force of the Wind . . n«) ■""an force of tlie Wind . . . sJJ SWy =»() SEt. - 6.1 NEy. -191 D7* SJt 8 N 146 NbW'M 49 ^•i'.llS. WbTo \6 6 S. 79 "SbE" 13 1? E 19} 2 febN. 7 I NNWIM 24 WSW70. 6 "SSE, 7 S ENfi.o. .^Total. 700 hour* 44 do. calm. 74r-3l day,. Nt, lowest anrim...) Total force of the Wind . . mg WbSTo. I 6 SbW.27 BbS~0 NbE.O. MEy NBy 4* .114 MeanforcBoftheWlml I ■» I 4 3 W.n I A S" 18 H K U I I NhW4l. U Wb«:o 5 SbE ft IbKTo. *4 n NNW.»6. KWBff.o. *CLV, 1830. > asB 3 4 BNir.A «WbWo "8EhS~o SffhS"o 36 NW«3. »l aw 42. 96 S% 31 3 4 NK.ia, .;_Tot«i M7 hoiiri , JJ "'" wjml »hl«. •W do. rilm f*ilsi day, mvswii. "IWSIo. 2 SKhE" 2 4 NBbE 4 tvNvro » I "*HW~29 "BSR I I 7 9 WbN.O SbW.O _ &bS NNE.-J*. iJjhK.O "ttrl'ir""'' "■'''''} -^7«4-a2+44„ ■ olal force of the Wini< ■ ' . J.T03 M.01 NWT.3W SWy , M SEy ^M NKy r-m m Mean force of the Wind u ' »k- m f m 1 ^s^*^ SM SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY .\IJGUST, 1830. 1 4 1 30 134 15 3 4 C 3 7 NW) N.365. NbW 17. NNW.B36 NW1)N.S4. NW 298. NWbW 6 WNW.IO. WbN.39 4 \ 1 4 4 17 1 8 2 SWy WM. WbS:2 WSW 13 S\VbW.8 "5W.:t2 SWbS. SSW. 38 SbW.8 S 1 7 15 SEy IS. 81. SbE SSE. 12. "SEbS. SE: le. SEhE. ESE. EbS 8 E 6 4 1 1 6 9 NEy E. 8. EbN.O. ENE. 1. NEbE.O. ftW.m. NEbN. 3 NNE. .59. *"^E. 3S Total 699 houra 16 do. wind > 39 do. r.alm. HiRheat, loweat, and nean ,,. temperature ''"^- Total force of the Wind \ 4-584..114-40.87 1996 744 11 days Mean force of the W ind . 64T SEPTEMBEIl, 1830 97 6 8 6 9 14 44 3 2 9. 17 N 494 NbW.432. NNW.IOI NWbN.C3. mv.l59. NWbW.5. WN\V.79 WbN,:« 4ft 17 35 7 1 9 9 • 14 11 Wm. WbS.'38 W.SW7!). SWhW.23 SW.73 SWhS 23 "SSW. 45 SbW 26 87 5 8 5 1 s:i5« SbE? 17 S8ET22 sEbsTfl 'Ste. 11 sebe: ESE EbS. 2. 3 1 8 4 6 2 6 4 2 « 3 gfi. EbN'77. ENE. 12. NEbE 23. NE:76 NEbN. 16. \NE7113 Kbtt 11 Total. ij96 bours 7 Ho. wind 17 do. calm HiKlieat, lowest, nudmeaii .,.i„ temuerature . ''"* Total force of llip Wind. + 43+5+27 42 . . 2033 ■msn dayn Mean force of the Wind . . W76 -JW -r m m SWy. ^3«ii SWy. .-IW SEy NEy . Illh 4 1) N.205. NbW'.O. ■) a W.!»2. I 2 I WbS.O. 9 S.220. SbE: 49 I 8 "r35 EhNio. 1 621 I 4 I 119(1 74T ri':«iSiirtions on B( Kelir I 4 4 ITSS. SfbW.82. 9 II \y.ififl. WbS'4l. 5_5 I 5 8 lOe. 861733. 5 « ITITO EhN"n. 3 2 4 NNW.IIH. NWbN.IO 4 a 1 W8W.I92 SWbW.J. 1 U _ SSE in SEbS 1 u IfjfB'. 2. NKbE'O. OCTOBER I8M. 9 3 1 5 1 2lt NWy._211 1. NW.205. NWbW.4n WNW.lOO WbN;87. 6 7 1 1 2 4 SWv. 244 sWTasB. SWbS 27. SSW. 39. SbWTs. 3 1 6 SEy. Ill) ^. 95. "SEbEr 0. ESE~0 EhS. 13. 2 4 3 2 NEy 107 Nir7H. 'NkhN. 13. NNE. 124. iffilTs. — Total 1K14 bourn. 1 do. wind vhle 49 do. calm. 744-31 dayi Hinheal. loweat, and mean \ +24-124-1096 tcmueraliiri' . i _ „ Total force of the Wind .2135 Mean forcf» of the W Iml . ^ . 01 S NOVEMBKH. I8M. 1 5 1 N'489. 7 fi W"8."> 04 s:87. 2 1 rn. f) NbW » Wbs.n. a libEr* 3 11 KNW"H. WS\T'fl 1 1 SSE 15 3 1 l> 5 9 Sfe.63 SEbCHS 2 9 4 "Vtl'E.4 NB. 16. NEhN.15 1 9 W'NW 25 1 9 .1SW 41. 3 "BSK. 14 "NNE 8. II WbN.n. SbW.O EbS. NliBIo Tnlal 598 houra 14 dn. wind Ilia lilt rnlm , Hllheal Inwi'nl.niid menn , , umiM-tHlurr '''•'■ rftlnlTiirroofthe Wind ■f 24-41- 1 45 l,e, passed was the vacillation '>o eoiijecluri'd, as ''.t in the evenin^r. ■*" hour, (ailing "ag •10 N.20D. NbW'.O. r. 2 W.'J2. VVbS.O 12 1 y S. 220. ShE. 49 J S 1^ 3' EhNlO. TO THE ARCTIC KEOIONS UECEMBEH, WM. O-.i g NNVV.392, NWbNfiS. 25 Ws\v.:i(i 25 SSE. .T), ENE 0. U SWI)W.(). 9 SEh.S"!) >'EI)E,0. 5 j N\V.87. 4 I SVV 01. n I sr::iio II NE n. (I NWbW.o, _0 SWbs. _ SEbE, ()__ NEbN. n I WNW.2!) 28 sswrci. _ I) ESE. 29. 4 NNE. 12. Total. WMmurs. '**'""''. '""csl, mid mean > , ,■ ,. 4 do. w|„i| uilc .^leinperftturp '} +fi-47-2«.24 lI9do cahn ^o'al fi'rce i,(||,e wi,',,, ' ^^^^ I) WbN 4 SUW.i 7 EbS.'2rj. (I NbE 744 31 diivn. Meanfmr. nfllifMI,,,! an NWy. SVVy SEy. ■NEy -211 2.T>t i' *m !MK ♦HAPTKK WXM. loNi-s were hoisl 1, ami llic ,hii, .l,..,...! „ , '"'"'■ ""' ''- -o Star, could be see,, ,1,„.,„„ ,;,„,. ho ,'!„!: '" ?i"' " '''> ""' Ihe meridian („iliBl,f. • Qn sSnZ .Ch' ™" ','" I'"""'' "^ Sa-, bu. eve, ,l,e„', ,1,„ " , ,Wo lid tT''""''.'' "'I '" '"'""" vice did not complai,, ™ °" "'"'"' "''«'' '"'vine ser- «;:.. bu. i. lei, „,:i'„:'::he„ z:iz irr-r'",;:':,""-";'^ ;;;«ad„V..ee.wi,,,;,;-ri::^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ vi in L .....„:„? :' J^';™ ;""'• "•'L'^^""'ly <''l'n and clear. A, tit* 324 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY There was a faint aurora, both in the morn- and then froze again, ing and the evening. Jan. 10, 1 1 , & 12.— A gloomy sky raised it next day to 23" for a short time. The ice on the lake, being examined, was toUnd to be three feet and a half thick. On the 13th, the sky presented a beautiful display of colours, as it had formerly done at the same season ; and the land was much elevated by refraction. On the 14th, there was a gale with snow, raising the thermometer to 10'; and on the following, it reached minus 4", making a considerable range within this month. The sun was not yet visible. ' .Ian. 10.— There was a little snow on Sunday, and the tempe- rature reached minus 2". There was no material change on Monday ; but, on Tuesday, it blew a gale with much drift snow. On Wednesday, the sun was seen for the Urst time ; being one day sooner than we had seen it last year. It was a welcome sight, even HOW ; though it was long yet before we should derive much ad- vantage from it, in respect to heat at least. Jan. 20, 21, & 22.— The two first of the following days were without remark ; the Saturday was distinguished by a large and beautiful halo round the moon, with four paraseleme, occurring at eight in the evening, when her altitude was 32 degrees. The latter occupied a horizontal position ; and there was also a bright arch all round the heavens, parallel to the horizon, and of the same al- titude as the moon. The radius of the halo was 25 degrees -, and where these two crossed, the prismatic colours were displayed, while there was occasionally an additional halo of five degrees, equally coloured. The whole appearance lasted an hour -, when the weather became hazy, with snow. Jan. 23, 24, & 25.— There was a fresh breeze, with more snow, on Sunday. Monday wae clear, with the thermometer at minus 1 1' ; and, rising to 7" on the i exi, ••'at also proved a very mild day. On the 26th, the sun reached the ship for the first time, and shone bright. The land was very clear, and much elevated bv refraction. Commander Uoss was employed in measuring a base. Jan. 27 —A remarkable halo occurred to-day, about the sun, being, of course, somewhat more than a semicircle : the lower ends being red passing to yellow, and becoming white in the uppert part of the sky. There was little change of weather or occupation ; but some willow partridges were shot, and many ravens, hares, and grf.use were seen, while on Saturday, a fox was taken. Jan. 30.— The temperature of Sunday was 19" minus. After church, the men walked six miles to the islands where the natives had been resident last year, but found nothing except the descried huts and traps. The last day of the month was marked by a strong TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS.' . 335 In spite of occasionally severe davs, the mean nf «)ii« ,««„*i. IC tweUX'"'"' " " '^ "' "^""^ P""^' °' ''" '" '•^^ "-" cIe!J'"tut we' '"Tr *«"P«''«'r'' '^ ^^^ ««'™' «"^ beautifully fhn «'^ ^ "''^ '"^''^ "'^ observations with the instruments on those days, ..nee it was as impossible to touch the metal as if k had been red hot. After the s'sth, we procured some good on s r There were many gales, as the journal has shown; and on all those days, the barometer fell and the temperature C' Zfi was an .„var,able .-emark, that, when the gale was f^m the north whP„' f" ^""""r ^'" '''^' «"^ '^' thermometer rose more 1 1' when ,t was from any other quarter; as this was To Is^ stnkmg when the wind was from the Southward. The au orx cWt? "''^^"^P--^' '^^ ^^^ J^a'oes were of a ..I: stri'ki;; Though the sun was first seen on the 19th, some foIlowin« davs thick weather preven ed us from obtaining a second sTh? 0? i clock ; and thus we had abundant time for work and exercfse V. e had been disappointed in not receiving the expected v.^t from weatrer' ^""^ ^""''"'«** '"^^^ «bsence%o the^badnel^f th^ Feb. l.-The month began with a strong northerly gale and 6- hpin??i" h'Tf '"' ''" '" '^' evening, when it readied plus 6 ; be.ng the highest temperature ever observed in these reK^ons so early ,n the year. It rose to plus 1I» on the fiwinTZ ctallvTno''''" r'r""' f '^' '*'«"''"•'»' but ended i^an'ofhe'; equally strong gale from the same quarter. Thus it continued on the 3d, ,1 near noon; the thermometer falling to cTc butnsmgahttle m the evening, to recover the same' degree aJ Feb. 4.— It was an overcast day with snow • fbp «/in^ „„ round to the south; and, in •conforltio" Tn.yhL7"LZ e tei^rature fell to minus 1 5". The men hid employr. in niiildinrt an ohsfipvaini'u fr... «,.«:„. f_— .:-_. . .. T'"y"'eui in n(h«..o "^«« f I ~i ".' "."". "s ^"tax:uvas, ana in repuirinK thr others; one of which had been shaken from the foundation i^ MO SECOND VOYAGE OP DISCOVKRY i consequence Ji its connexion with the ice near us that had bioiien during one of the past gales. Saturday ended with the thermo- meter at minus 24". On Sunday it went down to 32". Many willow partridges were seen by the men during their walk after divine service. Feb. 7 & 8. — The cold weather continued through the two follow ing days, in which there was nothing remarkable but a slight aurora. iVor was there much change on the next; the only notable occur- rence was the taking of an unfortunate fox, which had lost its tongue through the frost, in biting at the iroil bars of the trap. On the 10th, the temperature reached 42* minus, and it was very cold. Another fox was taken. I attcmp'-^d, a second time, to make observations on the diurnal variation, but the needle would not traverse. Feb. 1 1 . —There being a still' breeze, with a thermometer at ^9° minus, the men found it impossible to walk on shore ; and it was the same on Satuiday. The tanks having produced five bushels of ice this week, conrirmed the remarks already made. Sunday passed as usual, and the weather was unchanged. In (he evening of IMonday, the temperature was down at 45", and another fox was taken : as was a second on ilie following day. In compensation, one of our own escaped on the next, carrying off with it the chain. The thermometer went down one degree more. The sea ice was cut through, and found to measure about four feet and a half. Two more foxes were taken, of which one had lost its tongue in the same manner as a former. The escaped one was forgetful enough to enter one of the traps, and was retaken on Saturday. During these days, the temperature vacillated a little about the low standard it had held for some time ; it was 45" when midniglit closed the week. Vvh. 20. — Foxes seemed now abundant, Sunday morning having found another in the trap. A very lew grouse and hares had been seen latterly. On Monday, there was again a fox taken. The weather was much the same an in the preceding week ; but, with a cloudy sky, it rose to 31" minus on Tuesday, when again the trap produced a fox. Had our former neighbours been at their old post, not much of this game would have fallen to our shai-e. Feb. 23. — A fall of snow raised the thermometer to 22 degrees; and this w;eather continued till the following day, when it became clear, as was tile next, on which two gA)u.se and a hare were killed. Alter sonic variable winds, and many changes from cloudy^ cleai- weather, with correspondent variations (»f temperature, Saturday night closed at minii-<< 40 '. Feb. 27. the temperj to 42°. S( more on th than a scho through an before. Tl The sumi been a ver proved to h temperature ing material averaged 42 The obsei as i have rei retained thei Not havin of their joinii absence. Our sport cessful. No had a family bound to kecj which were i March 1.- aurora, whici been often o means of a k thermometer. change; but o meter fell to A fox was tal March 6.- rising in the night, and a h were little not same weather there was a bi March 10.- taken by the d minus 40», anc unbroken. A of this week v Saturday's mid March 13 & TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. gg, Feb. 27. -On this day, the sun had just power euo... to raise he temperature from mmus 43" to m^ ; and, after that,1t subs did fu""^ ^'T' T'"^ '""" '^"""S '•'^ Sunday's walk and more on he Monday ; but nothing was shot. It was litt e more than a schoo boy's experiment, to fire a ball of frozen mer^urv through an mch plank : but this had, possibly, not be^ don^ before. The month closed with the thermometer at 43° minus 1 he summary of this month is more barren than usu^l. It had been a very cold one, particularly towards the end. The mean proved to have been minus 3lo. Yet there was an unusually S temperature .n the early part, since it once reached plus ««; affect- .ng matena lly the total mean, but not that of the latler hal , whTch averaged 42°. The lowest fall was about 49" The observations experienced much obstruction from the cold as i have remarked above; but a few were registered. The men retamed the.r health, and, I believe, their contentedness, JNot havmg yet seen the Esquimaux, we now gave up the hone of the.r^jo.nmg us till May, though not well able toLeoun^t for the^r Our sport, if it be sport to snare foxes, had been unusually suc- cessful Nor must we be accused of wantonness in this ; since we had a family of dogs to maintain. It was the stud that we we^e bound to keep in as good condition as we could afford, for services which were now not far distant. strvices March 1 .-.The weather continued the same. There was a bright aurora wh;ch agitated the magnetic needle in the manner that has been often observed. Such light as I could collect from it by means of a large reading lens, had no eflfect on the difTerential hermometer. The three following days scarcely presented any change; but on Saturday it was squally for a time, and the thermo meter fell to 40», having begun this month with its lowest at 38* A fox was taken, and a hare killed. March 6.— Sunday was somewhat warmer; the temperature mmg m the day to 28», for two hours. It was 40«> on Monday n.ght, and a hare was killed on that day. The two following days were little noticeable for anything but a general continuance of the same weather and temperature : except that, on the last of those there was a bright aurora. ' March 10.— A fox, coming to the ship, narrowly escaped being aken by the dogs. We fro.e oil of almond, in a shot-mould a1 minus 40°, and f.rcd .1 against a target; which it split, rebounding unl.roken. A similar ball of ice had no cllect. The two last days 01 this week were as uniform in character as the preceding : the Saturday s midnight temperature being S.'k". March la & 14.— Sunday was unaltered iu weather. Monday ^ I' j^Bl ik ■ ^]il^' It ^ , m SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY produced aoother fox ; and the men commenced moving gravel for makmg a canal on the ice. It was already seen that the sun could melt snow on some of the rocks. In the afternoon of Tuesday a change took place in the weather, and it blew hard, with drift snow: which continued till noon on the following day. On the 17th it was alternately clear and gloomy, but the thermometer held last about 36". It was exceedingly cold to the feelings on Friday at the same temperature ; and, on Saturday, that fell to 44°. The tanks produced live and a half bushels of ice this week ; being the greatest evaporation from between decks that we had experienced Bincc this apparatus was satisfactorily arranged. March SO.— The continuance and degree of the cold at this period of the present month began seriously to attract our attention; and even to the reader, the registry which has now been repeated to weanness will not be uninteresting. The thermometer sank on this day, Sunday, to minus 52° ; and the average of the twenty-four hours was but 49°. At four on the Monday morning, thesun crossed the equator at this exceedingly low temperature ; an occurrence which had no parallel in the preceding voyages. Therewas no change in this respect on the two following days • though the barometer rose and fell several times. There was a difl'erence of a few degrees, for the better, on the next, when the mean rose to 30°, and the heat in the day to 26" minus. Friday and Saturday presented no material change's ; and the thermometer on this last night was at 35°. March 27, 28, & 29.— Sunday and the following two days were almost equally without note. There was variable weather, gloomy and clear alternately, with occasional showers of snow, arid, lat- terly, a fresh breeze. The lowest temperature of the three days lav from 35°to 28% gradually rising. ' fiiL.^V''® ^^^^' * decided and a very pleasing change took place. 1 he thermometer reached 1 1" minus, and the day was so mild (o our sensations that the men were] congratulating each other on the " line warm day," even when it had sunk to 20°. There could be no doubt that it did really feel warm ; such is the effect of con- trast in this case. At forty degrees above this, it would have been \^'?i7 '^^^^ seldom known in England, and we all knew what we should have felt there, even with this enormous difference. It was still warmer on the following, since it rose to 8" in the day, and did not fall below 17» in the night. Another month was ended. The great coldness of this month must already have been re- marked. It had much exceeded that of the former corresponding ones in the voyages of the preceding navigators. The mean was •*!!• "_'""*' ^^'"^ "°^ '''^^ '''"" seventeen degrees lower than the SiHii.ar means during those, and it was eleven degrees lower than (he April, 1831— A,, Exp( TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. » g.^.j lowest of iheiii. The {liuhcst wa« Ko ,»;». i ■ . »«a mas,„f,ce and snow, o'n one occaaior oX the |!h exposed, a„d7: eSts'ro IS'dra.r TCeX f'? A I there was no appearance of scui vy sj™ p.a..,ga„s ; b„. „r„„,. ,a„,d a.^^.s^^llXtLrnS tkin dresses as not to wish for more We «;ll Ia„i1j ? T their visits with hope. ''"'''*'' '»"™f<' I" CHAPTER .\.\XVII. portrn"^ •• '" ''"'"'""^ '" ^''« <^''»P^'.a.urc were unim- Ap.il 5.-This was (ho day on which our traveling had com- 330 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY nienced last year. The condition oC things was now very different, besides which, we could not well manage without the aid of the natives and the assistance of their dogs. The thermometer fell to minus 17" on the night of the 6th, thus giving us a tem- perature 34° lower than on the corresponding day in the last year. April 7. — A succession of heavy squalls with drift snow blew to-day, but ceased before the following, which was fine yet cold, with the night thermometer at 20". Nor was it at all warmer on the Saturday. Where the sun acted on the snow it was glazed, but there was no flow of water, and no appparent clearing. It was colder by two degrees on Sunday, which passed as usual. April 1 1 . — On Monday it approacl»ed zero, at noon, being a greai improvement. We were employed in preparations for a projected journey. This favourable change did not, 'owever, last, since it fell to 23" on the following day. Last year, at the same time, there were many pools near the ship and along the shore ; at present, all was solid ice. On the two next, the temperature gra- dually improved, and reached near to zero at noon. It came to plus 4" on Friday ; and settled, on Saturday, with 2° as its maximum, Preparations for travelling continued. April 17. — The first snow bunting of the season waf seen tiiis morning. On Monday the preparations for our journey were com- plete, and we waited only for weather. A change seemed promised the next day, as the thermometer rose to plus 8°, and the weather felt warm in spite of a breeze. A walking party was sent away two miles with the sledge, that they might be ready to start very early in the morning, if the weather permitted. April 20. — This being the case, the party set off early, and by noon the convoying portion returned, leaving Commander lloss and five men to pursue their journey. Another sledge and cooking ap- paratus were in preparation on board. On the 21st the tempera- ture increased so much as to reach 31" plus, and we were agreeably surprised by a visit from three of the natives, Neytaknag, Powey- tak, and Noyenak. They came over the western hills with their dogs, and stopped about a quarter of a mile off, holding up their hands to show they were unarmed, and calling out the usual all hail, " ManUf tomi;) ;" on which we proceeded to join them. It was the party which had wintered at Awalutyak, consisting of three families; and they were now at their station near the entrance of the inlet leading to that place. They had been met by Commander Koss, from whom 1 re- ceived a nolo, informing me that he had purchased two stores of salmon for two knives. This was welcome news, and we arranged to fetch this acceptable supply the next morning. We welcomed them to dinner and to sleep, and received from them the follow Neitchillee, exec party had killed expecting m boti was soon to go to present abode, who had been or was also a peoulii had been at one maintain them all had little (o sell, a at the end, he wai him with the otiiei been especially ki lor very trifling a: of two which they maux, he at least t'ould not learn th liad not been at ha iHir medicines. April 22.— VVitI ihe ship at four in !iiid our Escjuimai >iokhunagriu, at o lent on the 28th of ol'fish, weighing, jt slipuiated price. which they finishc looking a warm mi '•ixteen miles (hro iiowever, good bey [lis convoy; which forgotten their blani ! iiaturcd friend,s. At noon, two of md six dogs, tofclol i'C at a lake far aw and it was well woi fwmined thnr hut ''"•eo families, being ''fcayed as to slunv peiidd in the winler. I ind loinul an old o I'l'i'Kcon adininis(erc< 'i^bands; and nUa t '«'0 THE ARCTIC REGIONS. gg, them the following inrormalinn aii .i. • r • , Neitclulleo, excepi TiaZT„ "i, u J^.^'". '^"^"^^ *«''e well at party had kill ^'Urdoer' and tat'n '"'iV^u' ''''"''''■ ^hi. expecting .. both at Alat^aTandt' itSee On^^oH^^^ was soon to Ko to this Ifl«f niL„ •« i^eucniiiee. Une ol the men present abode. We t2t ,' 17°"^^ T'^ '^' "«^« «f «"«■ who had been onrof tiSto 1 '^^"^ '[T ^"'^^ Tiagashu, was also a peculiarly Koodch.pl' "S u^ '^' S««S'-«Phy. He aiuie eno, lie was ni'psnn«p«l » ;(k „ n > .<^ . "'""^^' » ""h him with the others- a hm.„,v u r ^"'^ " ''"'^*^' '"^ equalizing been cspeoialk S tcf us iTh ",7^''^' t' ^ ^'''^ ^^^' ' ^»^ ^'^^^^ <-cr;trini4:;;f„t;;:; ^^^i:::^^^™ ^^ of two which they had taken wEL k ^ ^^*'' ''"^ "laux, he at least dnd an nm- ^^'^^T'" '''* "■' " "^ «" ^o Esqui- could not leanrthe cause r.;? ^k^ «" ^xemplary man. We I'ad not been a d i^ce t mi.t' ' "l^ ^''^ 'Z '''''' '^'' ^« '•"r medicines. '"'^''' ^^''*' ''^^^ ^^'^hin the power of =^"d our Es.,uim nx .r^ « ^A^'''' ^'? '!"'«««"' ^^''ee seamen, -ent on thf 38 h of lasUune ' W. f *^^^: '^-"^ -« ^ad pitched our oHish, weighi 1 oin V but' i«n / "'"' ''•^''^^ ^^*^ P^^^^W ^lipulatod price •'tj/; but 180 pounds; we nevertheless paid the ^ :::f mr;^.;r!;. t'^ - very^ice^^b^x^:^?:^ fi« convey"; vvhlcru'vlt^gi^^^^^ lorgotten their blankets, we were slnlS^ J' , u ""'" '^^^'"S naturcd hiends, supphed with skms by our goor' -^^^TMT:\-:\fl%fT P^^^' -^'^^heir sledge l.eat a lake a nl T ^ "' '''^.' ''^''^ we understood to fvamined ilT,^ I '"'^ ^'^ '''"' '^"'^ «"<^'^ a supply. We 'l-o'£i| 'b i: J ;;; -- /-^-hich was largc'ISLghi: •ieeaved as to S f. ' ?!.! I k" '^''•"'''!"' ^"t it was so much li'ciodinthewin xtlr been occupied from a very early ind lound an ;„, ir" "V '^'^"^ '^^^ived by the women, >«.p.adm::^l;;;':-:t.i,:irtr;^^ ^'"^band.; and she ropaye.l her physic by the s^n^wSl^ 'I i ; 332 SECOND VOYAGE Of DISCOy'ERY in striking fire, which was, in reality, a valuable present to make, on her part. They offered us water, which is a scarce article at this season, as it requires much oil to melt any quantity of snow; together with salmon, which we took, that we might not offend them \ returning some trifling presents. Inquiries about families and new-born children were repaid by questions respecting our own people; one of the children had been named Aglugga, in compliment apparently to Commander Ross. whose Esquimaux patronymic it was. The presence of fifty seal- skins proved (hat their hunting had been successful ; and, besides the flesh visible in the hut, there were depots in the snow. They had further killed two musk oxen and two bears, hoping that we might come to purchase the former; in defect of which, they had been eaten. Of the bear-skins they had made dresses; but they had nothing of this nature to sell at present. The rising of a breeze in the evening made ojr hut so cold that we were obliged to construct a crooked passage for it; and, after all, it was but at 25" minus, at night, while our messengers had not returned with the fish. We were obliged to amuse ourselves with playing at the Esquimaux game of bear and dogs, with the children, to the very great delight of all t!.e party. At midnight the two young men returned with the fish, which were very fine, and weighed, altogether, a hundred and fifty pounds The promised knife gave great satisfaction. Their own appear- ance, and that of their dogs, showed that they had travelled a long way, as they had also been absent fourteen hours, which we com- puted to be equivalent to thirty-six miles. We sent them to bed; and, at four, our men rose to prepare a meal before our departure, and to get ready the sledge. Returning from (he pursuit of some grouse, I found that our fish had been plundered by (he dogs, and that including what had been consumed by ourselves and the Esquimaux, we had now but two hundred and fifty pounds. T'lis, however, together with our own stores, was more than our men, not very strong, were able to trans- port; so that.1 bargained '- ith one of the two natives \o aid us w 'h three dogs, for which service, and a spear which he had made, he was to receive a file. We set out accordingly, after presenting the women with <\ needle each. It wa a fine day, though the breeze was strong; fortunately, however, being with us, it was not inconvenient. Alter four miles. we arrived at a high cape called Neokouak, and then crossed the inlet by a r. irer and belter way than we had taken in coming, thus also saving n mile. Halting about half way on our journey, for ^ome rest and re '>shmcn(, we were obliged to dispense wiii Wflicr. for want i ime to thaw the snow. We were glad to lind that the whole salmon fisherie: at least, thejoi By three o'cloc It was a valual sions: which, b juice, which wj It being the h hibilion which the men had exi One of the nali some of the aff had immediateh children. The 1 land, it is certaii source of mtich needs not be sai of price, a great happiness instea begin to be servi more than them step-children, jr usage, it is on th which is a matt country. Whenever this and legislation, selves, there will will advertise in house, and they idle, till the day j a Utopian state ol wives, and can ta Utopian, when p( really will labour, always can, or n must depend on I liCt (he wise of wis from the savages raw. Of another pori with approbation : when coupled witi system of lesklstiic. law is a bud one. TO THE ARCTIC REOfONS. 3.53 that the vvhole bottom of this extensive inlet, which contain, ih. salffion fisheries, was covered with jrood !<•.■ «/, ihl, r ^''^"V*."'^ "'e at least, the journey would bo Zv ,h fa,'Lrth^r ^^ % three o'dU w/had arrive^f tl si i w h' ou.CS' It was a valuable one, because it containprl iLnL ^ ? ^'^'®- sions : which, bein, fr^l, allowed n^atro^ : ^iL ^h^e C^ ju.ce which was the scarcest artido in our stores '"""" .he men had extra a owa"^ an to .r "f;"/'""''^ ' ^''"« One of the natives, being hviJed ill' "?'"''''.'"i? '« '^"^'o"'- some of the affairs of hi! J^j T "'" ?*''"' ;°^''"«'' "« «f had immediately obta ned a new In. .' T'^^T ""^ '''" '^^^'^ •»'^" children. The bU^wouM not t^ '? ' ''^^ «''« h«d five land, it is certain ; the Idynrdl L ''".1 '''"=^"" '" '^"«- source of nA.ch comfort ; a, d |fat i ^ " t" at I '" l^ '^''" « needs not be said. But I ere, tl c ' v .1 ill " ^''*'"^'''« P''>Pe'ty ofprice, a,reat «brtu,e. a^o^rL ' S'S^^^^ArTf '^ happmess instead of vexation <....l »,...,.' ^'*'*' ""^ "'^ .h,c,,^. a ,„..,e,. orc„„„e. ^'..cr/rrp'ot^ai:; 7^ «lly will labour, ^nd when .1,,, C If : I^w d! "X,",^ mml depend on him lill (Ivv can n,.,l 3f T r " *''" system of lrtiri«lo(w.„ i„ _: _ ,1 1"""'"'" vve must not pull a i.w„a.aj»ri.x:L^j;-z;:;';::^,;::::::^ ■« k*.i.'b •A'Xl SECOND VOYAGE OF !)ISCOVEIlY looked at ui all its bearings, beibre we presume to decide \\hat is right : that is generally right which is most fitting. It is the cus torn to interchange wives. If the Komans did the same, under verv other civilization, 1 fear that their reasons are indefensible, thoiiL'l, I need not here inquire what those were. In this country the views ol the citizens may bo physiologically philosophical, for a'uHu that I know to the contrary, though it remained to discover whether they proved sound in practice. The people thus considered tin they should have more children : it is a good thing to have gooa reasons for doing what may not be very right. April 24.— Our absence had occupied the two last days oft!!,. week, and brought back Sunday. It was clear and very cold- tli«. thermometer being at plus 8" in (he day, but falling to minus j'^^ at night. It was a more acceptable day of icst than usual hw having removed the snow from the deck, we were less comfortabl. below. Our Ksquima^x guide returned; promising to send birl his Iriend with a seal, and some blubber which we had lost April 25. -- lie came with the seal accordingly, and had )biin,l the hlubher also; r ^naming all night. A breeze made it verv cold though the (heiiucmeter was plus {)' m the day, and not more th ,i,' minus 10 ■ at night. It is probable that we were already beginnin to iind, Ml our persons, a new scale of agreeable (cmperatniv though the exlre.tie cold had not very long ceased. Physiciaih" ought to explain these matters. Is it that the body generates more heat in cold weather, and the more as it is colder ? If it did .jot how could we be as warm a' minus :')(>' as at plus 10' or "^O"' putting out of the question all casualties from winds or an exposure to them. Hut, be this explained as it mav, whv does the body change lis standard, iis opinions I may sav, in Mich a manner;' I hat which was not disagreeable a month since, was now intoler- able : could a cold of minus 52 occur in " ,ly, with a day (e.upeni- ture ol ?(.'■ plus, it is not ea>,y to conceive uhat the li^eliims would be. April 2«.-- All r n night temperature of minus 10", the dav reached to plus l(, , and the suu, vxvn at this very low poii-t of il.i positive scale, had a powerful eHect on the snow," which was iiieil mg during tour hours. At night the thermometer was ai zero I here was a ^(ronK gale with snou drift on the hUowing day, aii.l at midnight nl wasal piusO'. On the subsequent night it was a,(ain minus l«"; the gale and snow having conlinucd all ilie dav Th. two last days «l thi.s tnonth exhibited many changes of weather an.l ol trmperalare. and it ended on midnigJit'of the ihirliell., ,alm .umI clear, at minus »'. The summary ofAuril is soon loM Tl.o (nm.^/.,.,(,„.(. .^.^ ... la»ta morelavoiirableliiin than had been expected, and thcuuMii TO THE AI5CT1C UEGIONS .,.,5 .1... .he surface had been IL Jeel o ""dTrZw""'":'' au efiicieat state. We had if Inn.^i. r 1 ^ . . ^'" "'^'" '" Rii. 20. — It was a matter to be regretted that we could now no longer obtain the aid of the Esquimaux, who had formerly been of such essential service to us, by means of their sledges aiad dogs. and by the great ease and expedition with v/hich they raised our temporary encampment.s. We had nevertheless gained some ex- perience; and the middle of .\pril made us a^xious to visit Aw- wuk-too-teak once more, as my former sight of it was very imper feet, and an accurate knowledge of this spot was essential to oiii' future operations. We left the ship, therefore, at three in the morning of the 20lli of April; forming a party of live, with a temporary convoy from the surgeon and some other men, who quitted us at 8 o'clock. In a short time I perceived recent tracer of tlie Esquimaux ; and as it was important to obtain their guidance to Aw-wuk-too-teak if pos sible, 1 followed the footsteps, while my party proceeded along the land. I thus reached N'eak-kog-nak, where I saw through my spy- glass a snow hut, whence there came out three men, who advancrd quickly with their knive.'*, which however they tnrew away as soon as they saw me lay down my gun, then giving me the usual wel- come. One of them was the old man Pow-veet-yah, the death t no great di; sirous to exami oil them, in com .'•liould set out liiiished oui pre <'» of the new "III, and with am nifin were very sf 'Imi we were con **iii' position was "'I the usual mear '•"ce of the part' "'»''K«'«i to rest du was 70' air lo; , April 23. -The '•III' nninituti;^.^^ ._._ '""■|»K the day. \ TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS '•«'ndeer; and were mudZ\'orLT «b'«ndance of salmon an vented us from makinj way t'^' ft' ,k''"^,'«'.'^ '^'^^ ^''« ice ^ "'atlhere had been much e" trauv' ^'T'^' '''"''' "^ We learned (hat ihev ha^ ^L '/* v-weet-te-week. a place on the wesleS ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ '^^^ «" their way ,., '"tended to travel across the " u„trv K " '"^"^'r' ""'^ ^''^^ ^''^^v 'f- sea, to the northward of New" el' le^ ' ''"'" '^^'^'^ '*^«d'"K '<' '>;• '''em, in consequence'^To let „t '"'^ '""''^ ^"""^- ' P'^vai ed ;^'ouId set out fl E' lee wlT'"''''?^ '''^'" ^''«"«ver thev '■n-hcdou. present jourrnjti Z"" T^ '.^ '"' ^« '-' |-,o»ld not prevail on ihem to attend me nT l*" '^' '^''''^' »"" ' ««' ^h.ch was to serve as a bill ^<>^'^''eT^^^ four in the morning that wo aver«etogotothevSr^iflwrf 7r'^^ «« '''«y woT- were much impend bj^is dense IW iTT^^ «- «'«t atten.; « ;;"d we continued our journey .^ fi .''V'VT'^ '' beoan.e clear, tl'ence along Uie vallev of 7e Stall '^":»«-'«-«l< to, and north bank of the lake at its head ^' ""*^«'"P'"» «» '^st on the •'y ioTlmf;7ow:;inrr";i.:: '''' '"-":"« -- «««!» delved -parates the tw'o lakes al thirpherrr'.^ '''f'' "'^^ -''^ '''fh the new s„ow. At h?e^ m hi T "'"''' '""' '"''«'" 'he '"". «"d with such cirect on I e whi e 'T"/ '''*' ^"" «''ono "'en were very shortly seized witlT?!? ^''"""''' ""*' ""^'»« oHhe «^ we were compelled .|,;«'i;"tr'''"" '" • ^^'^ «y««' «" ";• Po^'tion was L the no, -^L 'L k JiiToTl'"'' '''« '"«^"- •'" th.' usual means of ohecki.J ye therefore s( Oi" a dense fog, < af one in (he mc and found our p ice, though the s much drift, comj on ihe southern violent gale, attei lasting till the no April 28._It , (he afternoon; n snow burrow, wl a hard day's vvorl eight, but (he eve which had been I /aces. We woul visions had been sequence of the d( to proceed, and tl "f the 29th. April 29.-Onc nitten in the foot, usual remedies th( consequent sufferi 'ion till (he 30th a a sledge and proce easy ; but, on rout 'ce was fonnd vei [ieaped up in a co "eight of 30 feet. we could see (he I encouraged us to proved to be five o and fadgue, such ai succeeded in crnswi *>"«• disabled compa ure TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ."-.r., and the eastern one the atter 'tT. ''^' '''^P'^^'"^' ^'^« b-i a level of smooth ice 7thfve;.e otth'rV''''^''^'^ ^^^'- 'Hs Si, .re more accurately than we l5S '"''I' f' ''^ '^ ^'''vey >Ve therefore set out a hal „ "fT P^^'^^'^^y been able to do of a dense fog, contr led t £0:'-,'° '^'fy '^T''"^ «"^ '" «Pit« a' one in the morning^we reaZd i»n till the 30lh al noon ^iTli ■ ^'"' ''"''^ '"'' ^''-^- .-ledge and P-ocelZwirt K/n" Tr mP'^*'^ ^'" ^^" °" easy ; but, on rounding Tnon'fL '^^ '"' ''"' !''*^'«"ins was ;ce was found very ?„«£ LV n *"'»"^r'^"' '*>*' ""''^ ^^e -M "P in a con'fulir: .i ed bErlr^'f '*'' »''''"« beight of 30 feel. From tl.P < »f r u " ''«acliing to the we could see the lev iTco at X r ."' "' ''l.^^^/idge^, however, encouraged us To „ ,. . /i ''""'^ "' « '^^^^ '"i'^s, which proved ?obe nv or Tie i'nbrTr ^'' '^^ "»'^^-"'<>" ^ «nd fatigue, such a we h« „L ' '^ ' T^' ''^ '^'"^ of exertions succeeded in crnr„!l'''l"'^^''^ ^t' '""^" "'"' ^''P'^'ienced. wo »"•• disabled coa,panTon'*from'''tL" """'"'" "'"'^'' «""«'•'''» '^ uipanion, Irom the concussions which the slrdgc mo SECOND VOYAGE OF DIKCOVEIIY underwent. This portion alone of our journey occupied us twelve hours. May i. — Threeof the party had been thus completely exhausted, so that we were compelled to halt at two in the morning of the first of May, about tiiree miles to tlie southward of Andrew Ross island. But as our provi.^ions were now nearly expended, and as it was necessary that the disabled man should {^et medical assis- tance as soon as possible, while in addition, tlie seamen could not proceed for some hours, I set out alone for the ship, that I might send some relief to the party as soon us possible. The distance was only twenty miles, but the road being bad, I did not arrive on board till eleven in the morning. All '- ' o were able for the journey were then dchpnlched to their shipmates, and soon after midnight the whole were safe on board. Taylor, who had been the frost-bitten man, had sufTered much from his conveyance ; but the care of our surgeon soon relieved him from the most painful effects of his injury. Of the rest, Richard Wall was ill for some days, in consequence of fatigue, but experienced no ultimate bad eilects. CHAPTKU XL. Journal of May, 1831 — A Journey in company with tlie Native*. May 2. — Two of the natives had arrived yesterday with the pro- mised supply of a seal, which weighed 1 73 pounds, bringing also live large fishes called by them erkalook-ait-loo ; when, informing us that they had another store of fish fo'' sale, they were sent to fetch it. The weather was cold to-day, with the thermometer about zero. On Tuesday the natives returned with a seal, but only with a small supply of fish, as they had not been able to find their hoard : there were but sixty-five pounds. May 4.— The temperature rose to plus 2(1", and the mean was 4". The two men left us, with a promise to bring us more salmon, and a seal in three days. They were to fish here in the autumn, and at Ncitchillec in the winter. Our new cooking apparatus proved effective : its advantage being, that it would rcfl|uirc no fuel but tallow or oil. The ice near us, being cut through, was five feet and a half thick : the temperature at night, zero. On Saturday a pa left behind to week. May 8.— Af milies. One ( the lakes, in el had remained ( lo return in fo ceeding, was t was gradually May 1J._T which settled i (nrned, but hat rations for trav( provisions for t The weather pr fieezing point a May 15.— Mi their Sunday w the Slimmer. ^ thing for ourjou with the pontooi the same quantii set out to explor the peninsula, a Tliese parties wt natives. Calcuh days, our design Ross should conl for a supply of ] former by the s\u from the natives supplies of provis May l(j.-We being fine, but C( IVoolaknag; precc tent. Our promi informed us that wolf. We had f< spar, some iroj. 1 they had been eiti but our disagreeaf lery solved. The overboard o maki TO THE AFICTIC UEGIONS the lake, in eight day^r, -^tS o\^e"aVor Att"^^' ^^ l.ad remained on board, went home on r hn fnlli /^""'^er, who to return in four days. l\e U C o^H '!;^ ''^y' P''«"''«'»g oeeding, was there iich Sge • tL T L" ''^y^' "^'' »'- «"- was gradually increasing ^ ^ ^^^ mean temperature w.S^sllu;;,';t:^Sh.S:f^ft £ ''•^'^Tr' ^'^'^'^^^' tmned, but had nothing to ell exre„ « '^""^7'"-/ ^ ''« "ative re- . atioas for travelling w' e m 'o'Ts »-« clotlnng. The prepa- p.ovisions for twelve men di.Z^^ ' ^"'''«'»on8' other things, The weather promscVbttJls'tle 7 ^''^' ''"' ^^'^^^ ^'^^l- f-eezing point'at noon, bei„;'l£^ ^^Z^''''''"' "«^^ ^'^^ '« ^he May lo— Many tracks of reindeer'wcre seen hv >'- overboard omakp- "'tides that we had formorlv ihJ».,. - .0 make ..urn, anu (Ley had been found by those people' 34i SkCOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVtUY I asccijded a hill ab..>ut Ss.Hl hn nigh, to examine the country; and, by evening, our , ;des wli i; ready, punctual to their promises. Our march iiau a very nomadic and new appearance, as the line of it also v/nj somewhat picturesque. The mother of the two uicn led the way in advance, with a staff in her hand; my sledge following, with tijc dogs, holding one of their children and some of their goods, and guided by a v,;'" . ' child at her back. Another native sledge followed in ..le same manner; i.ext to which was (ommander Ross's, and lastly the other Esquimaux sledge: (he roar being brought up by a native drawing two skins of oil! and, at a distance, ourselves with one of the little boys. Manv baits were made, as our burdens were heavy, the snow deep, and (he i. e rough. May 18.— We had with difiiculty persuaded our guides to per- i^iiii, when we at last pitched our tent, and the natives erected their snow huts. It then came on to blow hard, with snow, till noon. Wc had now passed across the bottom of the spacious bay and the mouth of ihe great river, named after Lord Lindsay, being the Imon last year; and being place where we had obtained the s thus about three miles from the main, and close within a rang, rooky islands lying in a north and south direction. On each hand the land was high, and the mountain Kakoloklok before us. Oui cuurse had hitherto been as nearls as possible to the southward, und the distance v. hich we had travelled was fourteen miles. In the evening, all was again ready, and Commander Ross dp- parted for the moimtain just nnmed, to take angles, while the march was renewed. As v a advanced, the inlet became nar- rower, and many more islets appearr 1, indicating shallow water. We soon reached > small n'ver, or each side of which was ,i rocky hill, five or s. iuindrod feet higii, as there was also a chan- nel to the east of the island, leading along the main, by which tlu- distance to the ship co-ild be materially shortened in returning. The «uow and ice r ..dted the travfi'ing diflPicuL. and v.e pro- ceeded very slowly. At uine we passsd the mouih of another smal! liver, called Sokinnohunuting, and arri' J at length at that oi the river Saumarez. This was on the 19th, and 5 We were surprised at finding tl: Ir.-irn lliat it had been in this sta running in a considerable stream. that there were many springs in the lake above, which was a mile olf. Wc now hauled the sledges over a ridge, and obtained a vi. \ of il, lying, as it .seemed, in a south-west direction. At one place, (he river was conliucd by precipices eighty feet high, through whii li ' we joined Commander Ro*?. ve pen, but were more so to ill I winter, while it was now On further inquiry, • < found ii forced its w£ we could jump an! it suppliet procure any wl The ice on tl on the sea, bu along the west descended, and the river, close spile u!" all our fiozen to , and ' ney ; he had c( good : the simil; he had given tin The natives v heavy stores, of much lightened. ice; the shape I these, fasten d t goods, an r1 could though vt 1 V hea\ It was . till when we coulinu still leading th; varying from ou At eleven we re£ pilous on the soi vered with circle; the present party return. We we catching the lake far, in consequen strait of the river While our men a hole in the ice li lind it only five i and in only six fee been thicker than although we could The temperature ( was attempted to of a current here season; l)iit as tlit not very .vdisfaclo method of catching ' TO THE AKCTIC REGIONS. 3^3 procure a.;'';:'e"e else ' '""'' "'^'^'^ ^^^ «^'" ^^y ^'^-.11 to' onTi;: serb!!;\l:,:r i"i.'7'j ^t'' ^'"^ -«- - ^'-t along the ^est side t, "h"; a ht( '.'f '""' r'Y P'"^'^^^^"' descended, and pinhed oZtlt ., . ^ ,P' ^^^'P'^e, of the mountain the nver, close to the hu ' !< L ^^'.«/'«'ri ^^""''^'^ """^^ 'rom spite of ;il our caution aldt^^e o"„p nf T/'" ^''' P^*''''^^' "^- '" Tiozen to , and was of lim. T a ""[^^'^ ""^^ '"«^^'"«^^ ^om a ney ; he had" corded th i ." y^sT^ tS^'"'" f /^^ J^"- good: the simila- irridpm -J •• m ^ '^^ ^^^ *'^"''^ <^o ''tt'e he had give^tel^oS 1^Z^:r "'^ ^^^^'^ ^^™^^^^^' ^ he^;::^:;F;^;!:i;s;S3t'" ^:^^ '^^^^^ ^^ ^^p-'^ ^»>-- much lightened. '^SvaLoljp Tr ""^ "^^ this we were ice; the shape beinrtha of ? ? T" 'n^^'^ ""^ '^' fresh-water tliese, faster.^ d to<^etLr ronf. 1 '"'^ '^''^^ ^^«'"- ^wo of goods, an,i coul Wv ;ne or Z ' ^«"^'^^^^?'« ^"-"ti'y of their whl^;::eon.nlr.i;.^Th:^'sS^ -f' r--^^ ^tiU leading th ay • fbdinriL f i . ''" ^^^''^^'^ old woman varying frL, oue tVtt^mHe "a d"i s't^f ''''''''''' *^"^^'^ At eleven we reache ' s.^i A \ u ''•'*^'=*'<>n "^ore westerly. Pitous on the Ztl Tnd hl^g 'on til "i? ^"'^i "'^^-l vered with circles of stone. These had ieen ''' ^ """ P"'°' '^- catching thelak^'^ro 'buulat h Tem TI'^' •^'^^'«" ^- far, in consequence of he stXth of the «''"^. "o^ ««cend .0 strait of the river just described^ '"''"'°' '" '^' »*"o^ a iSn r ^rt":;^r^ ^"'r- ^^'^ "^''- -<>« find it only f.ve incl el K h T ^^ '^'"''^ ^"''P'''««^'l tt» and in only^ix fcerdep ho '-'t ^'''^'V'° y"''*^^ «*" '^' '^^ove, been thickL than n tl 'nf.re of tL^L^^^^^ '"^''! '' ''^^ of a current her. Horn we t to e^sf'Tf' '^ '"^P"^'"» ^^« "^^ "'"« season ; l>„t as ti j e Is 1 Lnaen? , " '""^ 'f ^ P'.''^°*^ «' ^''^ not very -alisfactorv ?^;;. .'fP^'^'l"' '^r'^"'' ^'"^«o'"tioa was method of calching ("hem" A 'h^U nf\^, ="''''"' ^^ ""■ '«ast saw the b "lem. .\ ball of iv,m y or bone, with four small w -'-.ft r :r -f < W nu .SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVEKY pieces attached (o ,i, .s lastened to (he end of a string attached to a slick, and (he hsherinan holds this in his leCl hand, a few leot below the ice, keeping these balls in constant motion to attract the lish which IS then speared by the barbed machine lormerlv described. ' May 20.— After an hour's rest we proceeded abni? the lake which was now found to contain many inlets or bays, and several islands, till we arrived at another strait, which was also a fishing station, and some time after, at a third, near an island, where there were the remains of many huts for the same purpose Here we pitched our tent, and the native who accompanied us built his house. There were tracks of reindeer, and we saw a wolf At eight m the evening we resumed our journey, and came to some low land, of a different character, consisting of flat limestone; the preceding rocks having been of granite. The snow was very deep and the thermometer at night fell below zero. ' Here some of the natives in our company became unwilling to travel at night, and they consequently halted, and set about build- ing a hut, promising to overtake us the next day, while one of them with his wife, consented to go on with us. After eight miles we thus came to an island where we found the remains of an Esqui maux teat, and here ono of (he natives remained. We proceeded on the 21st, through a very desolate tract, guided by some stones which the natives had set up for that purpose passing several small islands, and finallv reaching the end of this great lake at six o'clock, after a journey, on it, of three days We encamped, and saw many reindeer, with two wolves ; but thev were all too cautious to allow us to approach (hem. It blew hard from the north-eastward, with snow, and was very cold, though the hermometer was not below 20^ This great lake was named after the justly celebrated Admiral Von Krusenstern. May 22.— The gale did not allow us to move; nor would the Esquimaux have consented. The thermometer sank to 3° The next morning the wind abated, but still these people would'not go till their companions had joined them, which they could not have done during the bad weather of the preceding dav. Nothing was o be seen but a vast expanse of snow, covering a flat country, so low near the water that we could not discover where the boundary was. We learned from one of the men, that there was a third Cham ol lakes to the westward, emptying themselves into the east- ern sea by the great river. At four, the two men who had remained behind came up, and built a hut; informing ^s that there was another lake to the east- ward, having the same name as the one which we were next to seach, VIZ. Iishagriahiu, which ! named after ...y friend (laptain "T'' THE ARCTIC KEGlON.S. 3,^ .lekyll, |{, IV W'.iiii y means of a river which uniip/l ^^''^at d'«'ance, to another, to constitute a gencrdXpliv^ fT "^^''^ '" ^'"'^ ««''««' «<> as named after I>r!!lW Man '^ r'"^- /hose two were journey, after hnvinK rave led" ijn '"^''m ''" ""'^^^^ ^'''« ^ay's at last, about ten o'clock it ''^ ""'''' P'^^'""^' «'"■ t«"<« "avelled was, «ncn mc^c ' f . nn f T"" ^^*"^'' '"' ''^^ thus passed in thi; journey was theer '^" r'' ''^'''^ ^« '"ad latitude of our pli,irn\vr6^"5' 30''"ndT'', "''" ^'- t was soon necessary, however la '2 *^'^'""«'^»'^e mV. natives whom wo had left ZhZ • ^ ^^^'"5 *^'o o'the «very place whorrwe had opoeT^h^""^ "'■ ."'''^ «« «^ await them on their retnl T^.V^^y deposited a store, to 'hat one of the n couM h J T/ '''''^ """^'* ^i^^ -'ty believe he woul^ not have don?"f !,^ '" ^''''''^ ^»"«h » 'he promised reward wlsaw !'. '^ '? ""' '"^^''^^ '« 'ose raven and an owl a wolf 1]^" ""'t'^. '"^''^^'' ^'^'' « without success. The temJi *'''" '"'^^ «*' ''«''o''« this, May 25.- We betn m.T "'' "' "i''^"'^^'^ ^^^ '4° plus % aL a frerwTely'TrfezrV^' '^'-^ '"'' ^^^ a clo'udy arrived at a ridtfo «p, «.L .1 ^''o^smg a small lake, we '-ing the gi'Jlar K uTensle'S t'?' ^'^^^ ^^ passed 'affe^ narrow lake, and then into the iLnner.f'"^- '""'V'" " ^^-^y a larger one two miles off Hlh", . '' r '®'' *^«* '^^ into proceeded, at live and p^I. ■ "^. ^^'^ ^°'' «'' '^our, we arrived a the gl^ l.kp f^ '"^.'''''' '"'^g'^ ^^^ f^"^' r^nl west, and socm?d n'tlellLrh' mi'' '^'"^ '^^ ^^^ -^' ;',^.»"-eadth to be as^t.-Sd 7h" I !" '"'^ ''' "«* «"«- '^'- and there wore sev;ra,;^triti.^rea:r'^^^ 34 (> SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVl-RY was said to abound in fish ; the salmon entering it from the western sea^ through a great river. Hence, after walking twclvo hoars, and havmg travelled over a distance of eighteen miles we pitched our tents at its northern side. It snowed heavilj all this day, and the thermometer was at 30° at noon. . May 26.— We started at one in the morning, and keepin- a westerly direction, reached the end of the lake in two hours" when, passing a ridge of land again, we came to a river called alter the Crown Princess of Sweden, and having crossed i( arrived at the channel of the great river. After a needful hah' we came to its mouth, which was at the bottom of an inki three miles long. It was that which had been formerly surveyed by Commander Ross. The land was here rugged and precipitous and, as was here rare, it was somewhat romantic: the place where we first stopped was called Padliak; and the entrance oi the inlet had been ascerlained to be thirty-five miles froir It, west by north. At this place we saw a herd of twelve reindeer. aiay 27.— Here we also found three families of our acquaiu lance, in two hutrf; but were vexed to learn ihat Kablala had departed some time ago, that Ikmallik's party was beyond Neit- cljillee, and that we had no chance of seeing either. We \v"ro glad to find, however, that they had been very successful in killing deer last winter; and we bought a deer-skin and a pair ol trousers, with a skin of oil for fuel, as our own was nearly expended. At ten at night we again started : the plan bei.,„ that Commander Uoss should explore the coast to the westward and mysclltlmt to the eastward, returning by Padliak. As the former had fifteen days' provisions, I settled that ihey would be able to travel outwards during at least six of those. But as I then took leave of them, so must I now defer any account i ' their proceedings till the time arrives for giving their own report of (heirjourney and its results. After parting, we proceeded onward ourselves ; first passing an inlet formerly examined, after thai a valley with a river, and then, lastly, Cape Isabella, where we arrived at midnight, through very thick and foggy weather. IVIay 28.— We pitched about the middle of Padliak bay; but (lie «u» being obscured, could not well make out our course. Nevei- Ihcless we started at eight, though the men complained much oi their eyes; guessing our route ns well as we could, amid li.e darkness And conlusion which was pro'luccd by the density of Ihr og At midnight we arrived at an opening resembling that wlii. Ii cads from Padliak to (he p.eat lake; where, finding no natives I de(crmuu,''ver it was ; limn the rm.gh ice of 1 1 oT:' r rT n'''"'^^' for travelling Ihrongh. uad^;„rsntlMatt ."''iltr: ll'S^'-^" ^''TT' getting upon a more agroeahl.. ryu\Tni ■ i '"*^'^*'«'^*'d in proceeded alons its so, .!> n » •', '^"'^ " '"'K^'' be called, we huntings i«rcole 'r':i ^T '"'^"^ "^"^^ fhesc harbingers of th,. m in ,T ' ":'',";«" P'^ased lo meet with indeed, of Xh the u i ? "7'. ""' ^'""-y '•'"'^- ^ «P'inP. which insti^f:^ v^vz zl ' rr ""i ^^« «^^- ---"^ is dee.> winter Whv .1 ?.! ^K'"""' « "'« only sign, since all else ll.an t.; me, tee we X ?„«::" "t thi ""?" '"""" /" "'^'"^'''-^ Ihev found I.ci, food .^1 ",^ ""^♦^'"■'y reason discover where Jheir 'i hts an « 1.. ' . " '"''' '^""*" *« "™ ^^''o directs provid;d';:"M:;i^^e^lXhiMr 'T-'t'r ^^^-^^'^ that the :al,! which He Or- I ' ''' "'"''''''''''' "'<''" 'o seek, Her which it became so tbiik..^ "avdled fourteen miles: however started ag^^ a, ,!,'.. 7 '""''^ ""^ '""""^d- ^^'o valley which led TsC^^'^'^^r '""'"■""^' ''""'' ^''^' and t^^o hares; but couhl go ^ oUe vmbnT.r""" ''''";^''"'' ".ore fortunate afterwards k. .ho ,71.^ '^ '''f '""• ' ^''"' here repeated, once more, .1 i o n v3, rwb.'T l";' ". '''"''■ ' "Mde for the second timo o„ t ^1(1 rof I '."'' «o recently •'oiug very desirous (o know wlmf » , ! r "r^"^ ""'* ^^''''^ al.«vc the level of the sea. U w« . t^^T "^ "'" ''"'' ^"^ •nay at (irs. appear, muco this vTa. 1^ v" ' f ^lll' "i""'"'''' """ :'. which formed the mont brief null ..!!i5':'!..\''''*^y ' "''} •«'."" comiiiiinirnijQn !w£j>n ihf fasten ^lam; tin iUHt WtRfttlii hc «i» and in a very different ,| «»*. whicli, in oti "••••«•, mighi, ,„„j,., ,)„, „„, ,,| ler nr<'um nrl. 3 " penenced many severe (alls, adding ,., „,„ delay. I blew a ko when arr.ved, an only 0. I he p« ly who wan qu.t« well. Thus ended a journov win. l>«nng thi. walk, I had a further opportunity of rompanng tl.r 11155. . .. -, _,.,.,„,„ :,t.ticar waif. Hiuiig the shore, while it li;i.l sue ■om ihc 1 been abundat to be seen on occupied theii scarcely say, ( only relate to which these a bad and proti America. The journal the weather, a the absent and same; and the The suininai I heen a great c The sun had s water had yet plus net", the It mander IJoss's passage into th( 'he southward ( one for the mat( foot ; and the re recovered in foi is therefore an scurvy, and to tl liad essentially ci My own jour (his part of the weather, which Pleven. Game, ii more iNteresling our amusement c niigrating to tht wt'ie the calenda indeed we had n «now, that it was TO THE ARCTJC REPIONs. been abundant last vear Tf »l.« .„ . . 10 be seen on tl. prfc ^.^ '2^ tn'^ " "'' ' ^'"^'''' '^"'^ -- occupied tlunv breeding places and we. o 1 "V''" ''"''"^'' ^'*«y ''^^ scarcely say, of a u inter- in severity and dr'"' ' ^ "^^^J^' ' "eed only relate to the climate in Ththi "'"'"' '''^'^^ does not wliioh these animals mtg ate • thusldi"'? ^T' ''"' ^" ^''^^ f''"'" -and p..ot.eted col^^eJ^ ^^IrKj^- 1;)'--^: '««••■ water had yet been seen S [^'^oa on the snow, and no plusSeo, J lowest m nus 1^« 17,"""* temperature had been rnander IJoss's Hrst journey hid 1! '"«?" !''"« '«"• Com- passage into the western sea aidTi'^r\'^T '^'"'' ^^«« "o 'he southward of 7- This JoL^nP ^^'.^ ""^ ''" ''"''^•^ """« to ooe for the mate Taylor, who wa ex. w . f "! ' '"'y "«'«'-'"«ate foot; and the rest were so much fa iS , V^' '"" "'"''" ''^'"^ -ecovered in fourteen days. tL reporf of \7 7'"'. '''''''^y 's therefore an unpleasant one but "^U ""'* '^"•' *'"'' -"""'h scurvy, and to this, the supres of «b "^T ""^^'ening of l.ad essentially coniributed^ ' ^''''''''^ ^'^"^ '''« "Olives, weather, which had nls^ pro on^L f ^"'"f P*"*^^"*-'^"' ''y ^lie eleven. Game, it mayZ remaSf ' T"^'"^ «'»''^ '»"/« to .nore interesting ma.tlr L reTated fo' T '" '"'"^ ' *""' '''''' -«« « ouramusement oroursm p s The so .,7''"' •''"'! "^ '^^"•^«''"^'" n-igrating to the norlhv!! d buVirn? ! ""'T^ WHO the calendar of tSi," ? ?, »'''^'''' ?'''"^»«''«5 «»d they iuJeed we had notl 1^^/; „ T "'''^^'^y ---''ed. ff "now, that it was not yet arrived «"''round.og waste of 'JbU SEC:OND VOYAGE OF DISOOVERV CHAPTER XLI/ Transactions in Jnne, 1831-Return of Commander Ross from his Expedition June l.-^-The weather was cold on this day and the following and on (he latter it was stormy. The sledge was brought in from the place where it had been left. The lowest point to which (ho thermometer sank was 19». We should not have occasion, it w.t, now hoped, to register its negative scale, Ibr some time to come. It was a bad commencement of this month, to find that it had becom;e necessary to amputate part of (he foot of the male Taylor which was mortified. This was accordingly performed by the siu-- geon, with credit to both parties; that of suffering well, to the patient. The other frost-bitten men seemed likely to escape for a trifling sore or two. Outhis I mu»t be allowed to make a remark: it is not intepdcj for the purpose of praising my own management, but that future travellers m northern climates, not less than navigators like our- selves may see what a very little care and attention can effect. It IS very certain, that no travellers, under any circunis(ances, nor any navigators, among all (hose who have wintered in northern climates have ever encountered (he winters of a country more severe in ils temperature and i(s storms, nor in the duration'of such low (empo- ratures, and the Irecpiency of such storms. Thus was it also our lot to paw, not one winter or one year, far less one or a few month-* as most of those who have experienced the cold of these climates have done, but a long succession of years, of which I may saiely say, (hat nearly the whok is one long winter; while, with lidle exception, as the records of our long de(en(iou in the ice shows, those years were, even in (his very wintry clim«(e, seasons of un- common severi(y. Nor were we sparing of our toils out of doors, as my joiirMl hm every where proved. Our men. like ourselves, (ravdh-d as mmh as was rc(iuisi(e, and laboured m (he open air, without restnctMin or fear, on every object and for ev^ry purpoMr that om- dutieii de- manded, even as if we had been m Kogland. No service was ever shunned or eountermandej, from frur. of tb* weather, exiept un.h;r those very peculiar circum-^taBras wiiw* I have always pointed out whenever thoy occurred. Ho* (nilv ikis " ' r — r- irr— ;; rnotj CoaitJ srr gathered froi statement frc nevertheless not my desiri What (hen tiires, during unparalleled lias seen then file freezing | zero was the ' and (hat if we thirty even (o Had we stoi in (heir severa in a house of (00 by want o been seen tha what all know on the body. (Iiese privation space of four j fered the loss o own ina((en(ior men cannot be ] of circumstance sufficed, and (h <^rew which I b snfTiced or not. Tlie 3d and The Sunday wa piepared, on th every thing was In the evenin sledge, seven mi ey had heard, or whetC (hey co^Drp^^^''7• '^'^"^''^ ^^ ^^ha we were not far enough ad a„Ld Tn (t .'^ "' »"''P"^«' «!"^« attempt as this. ^ -'o^anced m their language for such an Jc::itZt eXt ^or^r- ' "^'''- «P-^ - a fa. 0' savage nations ; stiS ess beSe" T "" '' '\' P«^^-''^''''y power can ingraft a reasonable fndeffil. TPP*?'' '''a' ^ny human have never exerted their reason vvl'"i T''^'^" "" '"^n vvh(, on which a rational faiti 'as ^.p ''! ''' ^^^t"' '" ^^^''y ^'''"H founded, and who, I may afeV sal ft I ««"°d P'-actice, can b";: b"t what is found in those w ho aoLo -) ''' '" '''"" ""'' "^^ '"«» an.mal nature. Yet even there God . '"'^^^ "f^-'y to the pure a witness, strange as Z Z ' ^"''^.''^s not left himself withour ^lorethaithis^h'oweJe stTatl f^M.'^ ^^"« ^^y «^ " 'hat I had no the mea; Sit '?"''' have desired to see, bu «"y thing of all thatTattmited to'rt- ^''' '''^y -'"P-l-" P««t things in the simplest n'^anne? ..S'". f^^l^'"'"^^ ''- -- "ot conjecture. Should I have a-.L^ ^''^ ''^^''«- * couhl flood their language P I have m^?r ™°''^ ''^'^ ' '^''t'^^'- ""der- I'ave a moral lavv of somee.tTnt '' w ?" ^° l^"'''- ^hat thev «ot douLt (and I have^ll si "Lei; T '" "'" '^^«"'" * ««"''' heu- conduct show: but beyond This ..'/' "''"'''•«"'' ^''^'ts of •h.ng, nor did these efforts and J. '; "'"^ '"''^'y "'y^^"" «f no- ;"';e aught worth recording ^espeS T-'' '"'-^'^ '"« '« <^«"J«'^- "al po nts from which I m gh Ce Vr'"" "''i"'""' '" "'^ *-''''"- was obliged at present to abfnlnl'l.T"'"'^ "" « "^"k'^"- ' to despair. *^ '"**''*^^" 'he attempt, and I was inclined :;^'"^^P^'J^^ Hoss returned '•'•'•• return to Neitchillee to lisl f^^^ ' ''%"^ '"«^ took leave, on f tractofthenan-ativeof hiJel' .^Lr- k' '*'"'" ""' '"«'<« ""y "' "'at oflicer himse/f «Pt'd'<'on, but give it in the words *l S54 SECOND VOYAGE OF DlSCOVEltV CHAFTKH XLII. Commander Ross's Narrative-His Journey for aHrorlaining the Place of the Xoril, JSo.m^IJm'^iio!;:^'' '"' '"■ "" ''"•'""''*-■ "•■ '"""«"'"« "" P"'^*'' «"•» 1>^' Having given to the Royal Society a {)uper on the subject of ihe North Magnetic Pole, which they have done me the honour to prim I need not here repeal the prehminary or other general remark^ which It contains, but confine this narrative, as I have done uiv former ones, to the facts and relleclions which occurred during our voyage and our travelling : thus conforming to the journal character ol the volume in whiclt I have borne the share assigned to me If there are scientific readers who desire to see what I have wriUeii on this subject since my return, thoy will find it in (he Philosophirai Iransaclions for 1834. It must be known to many more readers than (hose, that (ho subject here in question had engaged the attention of our prede- cessors, Parry and Franklin, during their several voyages and travels in these regions for those purposes of geographical discovei v which are now so familiar to every one. If all general praise ol these conspicuous men is now superfluous, 1 must here however remark, (hat the numerous and accurate observations -,n the subject of magnetism, made by (houi and (ho ollicers under their commaii.l fiave proved of great value towards (he advancement of magneli(' science m general, if more pailicularly to the assignment of ihv laws by which that of the globe, as it regards the needle, is re- gulated. The geographical restrictions, however, to which these discoveri.s had been subjec(ed, were such as to prevent them from extending their observations over so large a space as was (o be desired. Tlu>\ had at diflerent (inies made nearer approximations to the expecfril place ol the North magnetic pole (ban had ever before been dfTecleil but the spot where it ought to exist had been a sealed place to them " more than once tantalizing with hopes which, it was destined, won- not then to be fulfilled. Observations were still wanting at olher and nearer points to this desired and almost mysterioua spot; (liai its place might be at least assigned with ixill more security and pre- cision than it had been from (hose nlready made; (hat, if possible, (he ubserv«r might even asHinc bimKAll ibrii (.<. l.„.i ..»,.f.u„,i -., !,_j placed his ne^ assignable, at the centre of These hop drawing near we had conjee observations a made, and wi( we stood, (oge fast seemed ce should triumph on the North i and observatio lender the d us, (he place o a degree of pr( could have beei 'and, it was pr in 98^30'ofvv( ofniylandjouri I had been with t'elix : but, as I 'nen(s, I could d mortification of on the point of a^ We had now, •n our ship, not 1 former year, and 'his spot more efl <:arried on a seriej ade, and with our now acoled'^n 1'^ '^'^ ^'"^ ^^^'^ Jet beo, we stood, together with ZToZerZttf- ^'i^f '^^^ «« -S last secned certain that this problem l^T^''^ ^'J'' '^"^ '« "«' •' at should triumphover all difficuEs and IL ITr^r^ f"'' "^' ^''«' we on the North magnetic pole, on he &- ''^ ''^'•'^"''^"'^''"'^ and observations, Keystone of all these labours Under the determinations of (I.p ... • "s, the place of this implant so fVf''^'-^ T^^ ''^^ P'^-^^'^ed a degree of precision, as it after^l S: ^'" f'^ «"d with could have been expected. At h^ (11^^^^'^/' ^^'' greater than land, It was presumed in hi , . . ' ^^'^ departure from En-r ;» »8. 3o^„rrverCg\rde'' ^s .;":?: "!,T'' '^"'"™»s "f my land j„„r„ey ,„ ,he westward iL iK •,""' "' ""' ™'">« I tiad been Kilhin ten miles oltiZ, ■ '"" P™"")"!!! year (1830) 'nents, I could do nothimr tna^-wi r ^''® necessary instr u- mortillcation of being X7totr''"^ "^^ '^^'' ^"'l had he on thepointof accom'phsS^i, :^7'.:y'-°/'-«. as I believed! We had now, however bppn V ^ wished-/or object. '" our ship, not far f on the pLe ?b '' ''r' «"°^''«'- -inter ormer year, and I thus hoped^ hat ulu\ ^''' «-"P'-' '" the fhis spot more eiJectually ii the com .1 ^' ^'^'^ '« investigate •;arned on a series of magnetic obTe^vr? "^"'"l^- ^^'"^ ''^i^ view I 'hns at length succeeded in a ' ^nt .''"' ^"""^ ^'"^ ^^i^^^*-' and -hich I believed to be Ich S ^ P'r/^:/*^'^ ^ '-ad previously been supposed The 1 ? u ^''"° '^' one which of observation exceeded 8{^' and it uT i ^' ''''^^' «^ '''« P'ace '-.^ofour dlptTu^e' ::;;;rshiror""""^' ^'" -^'''- « ^-v •e. taken for (his sole purpose '1 ^' "" ^ J""'ney which was «n- ;'.- f th of May, accoi^S byte ?r "" ^^T' ^''P^^'^'- " '"« direction, as far as the sho. i ofT "'' ''"'^ '"^ P^'-'y ""der ^'•Paraled from ns for the n "IL , '''''"'" "''"""' when thev ^vay of Nctchillee. ^"' P""" ^'^ '•^^'""in? to the ship by (ho ^tTi^::Z::; :^^- ^-- . very un.vo„. -^ ^*- ve.at.ous «'-e of ihin^-^.^.'^'X:^,:?-- - 23' «MJ SECOND VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY w hole of our journey across llie coiinli-y. We were, nevertlielesg, ol)liged and might thei iipot at that tin ^ay- Instead i lime of want oi our ease in all >ny investigatio the absolute an hably have beei towards Cape 1 «amped at eight iceu miles. We were noi of the magnetic me to do or end Jong wished-for the greater part wards nothing ra other accidents i cumstances, stil Ihe high gratifica i"g this most desi We commence cumbered as we we reached the a of June. Ibelie> of mind with whi tliis great object ( accompiislied eve TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 3^ ;id iXlra,:LrJ" r -^ i^-' -^ ^t*: party alZgaN he wiL/"r'™°'P''"'''' ""' '» '"ad (lic covered, as far as the eve co nU T . '"'•'^' '^^"'''' ''^'^ n«w oHevel ice, replacing the hum i^"^ ^ '." ""'''''*'^*'" '"•■^«^'« ^een packed intoTth^^ I pZ , Ln -regular masses that had June of (he precedirvea ^ Thk f ^^ "'" ^I'P?'^^ ^'^^''^ '" t^'*' part, at least, of thlt sumL. i '^ u^T^ '''^^' '" ''"^ '^^'e' and might tleahavlbepT! '•''"'' ^f ^'"^ ^''^ f'"'" i'^c, ^potat"thattia"e Zv^'crl^ ir'^'^^^i^ ^' ''•'"'" '"^ '^« «.ay. Instead of a lloo:' ^IkX^h ''"'.' need scarcely iuneofwantorstarvation we Sm. I '*'■*'' ^' ^^^ ««'"^ our ease in all respect whilr 1 n'^ ^''" comparatively at "'y investigations in P;..^v ' ™'S'^V'"" "°^ "'''y ^'«^« P"'S"cd tl/eabsolufeaS3 exact pSof^fh'''"'^"'''-*" ^ ''^ '"^« «'«^6««d bably have been en?blP,I ..^ <. "f^"'^" P"'''' ^"' «''ould pro- towalids Cape Tu^a Jain tl.an '> " ^^^'t'" ^^'^''^ "'"^'^ ^^''^^^'e'- camped ateS^htintSf^^oluVofT^^^ '"'". ^««"- ieen miles. "'^^ming oi the dUt, having completed thir- ofI^:aT„e^pot'"an'^'''^" '"^'^ V^' calculated position me to do of endu'^^e aivS^^."\lr"r'^' u^'lt''^ ^'^ "«' P«'"'it Jong wished-forspot^ ' f.lv !i • ""'^^' ^^'^^ '"^ «^"^«' «* ^''e tl.e greater pa. t o7 our baltf an'.""''^"'"''' '' ^'''' ""'^'^^^ wards nothing more than w?f«f n P'ov.s.ons, and to take on- other accidems si Jld bp ./ "i ^ "fT''''^^ ^''' ^^'^ ^««ther or cumstances s il r'l «*^''«'l/« delay, or lest unforeseen cir- 'hehigh's.iSioTwrhirudtTbtut'^L'r '"^ ^"^'-'^•''' ing this most desired objeoi ^'"'^ ^"^ '" accomplish- vve reached the calcuVed place at eXb'T "'' '" 'T f"«'"' «' June. I believe I must leave ifto n/L - • """'"'"« "'^ ^''« ' '' of mind with which we fm nd n ^ ' *•" ""^'S'"' ^''« '^'at'o" ^his great object o1"^:rJ:il?':tT"T^'' '"/'' ^"''^'^^'^ «' accomphshed every thing that^o had'^Lr^ tr^!^ ::^::! IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V. /. W^ :/. (A 1.0 I.I 1.25 «- IIIM 1: 1^ !M IIM 1.8 14. 111.6 6" — rilUiU^ajilUU Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STRUT WEBSTER, NY. )4SaO (716) •73-4303 V ^^ o rv <^^^^ "•t"!*. V ^ 6^ ,Si Ua 3o« SECOND VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY ilo ; as il our voyage and all its labours were at an end, and that notlimg now remained for us but to return home and be liappv for .c rest of our days. They were after-thoughts which told us .at we had much yet to endure and much to perform, and they were thoughts which did not then intrude ; could they have done so, we should, have cast them aside, under our present ex- citement : we were happy, and desired to remain so as long as we The land at this place is very low near Ihii coast, but it rises mto ridges of filty or sixty feet high about a mile inland. We could Have w .bed that n place so important had possessed more of mark or noie. It was scarcely censurable to regret that there was not a mountain to indicate a spot to which so much of interest must ever be attached ; and I could even have pardoned any one amoDR us who had been so romantic or absurd as to expect that the mal nctic polewasan object as conspicuous and mysterious as tt labled .nountain of Sinbad, that it even was a mountain of iron or a magnet as large as IVfont Blanc. But Nature had here ♦Mt'cteu no monument to denote the spot which she had chosen as the centre of one of her great and dark powers ; and where we could do little ourselves towards this end, it was our business to submit, and to be content in nothing by mathematical numbers and signs, as with things of far more importance in the terres- trial system, what we could but illuistinguish in any other manner V\e were, however, fortunate inhere finding some huts of Ks- .|uimaux that had not long been abandoned. Unconscious of ihr value which not only we, but all the civilized world, attached (o (o this place. It would have been a vain attempt on our part to ar- rount to I hem for our delight !iad they been present. It was batter lor us that they were not ; since we thus took possession of theii works, and were thence enabled to establish our observations w^tli I u! greater ease ; encamping at six in the evening on a point of land Mhout half a mile to the westward of those abandoned snow houses. I he necessary observations were immediately commenced, and ihey were continued throughout this and the greater part of (lie ollowing day. Of these, the details for the purposes of science have been since communicated to the Hoyal Society ; as a paper .ontaining all that philosophers require on the subjecl has now also been printed in their Transactions. I need not therefore repeat them here, even had il not been the plan on the whole of this volume to reh.r every scientilic matter which had occurred It. ' ( nptain \{oss and myself, to a separate work, under the name of an appendix. But it will gratify general ciiriositj to state the moul conspicuous I" "»" i"i"i>«i iriaRnpr. iho piaofi of Iho «fa»cr- valoi-y was I possessed indicated b; one minute pole, if not Jirmed by tl horizontal n in the most showed the it was place of readers centre of atti any. As soon as known to th« and it was ti British Hag o Pole and its j King Willian building, in tl we therefore buried a canii regretting tha more importa saults of time large as that oi more than sati Jay. The lat 16 15 west. This suject i permit the omii part of this qiu I'urtailing thcsi down all tho c 'he point of the determined by o I lie power of n roturn, that the one where tlies< lieen protracted ''>«*" particulars •»' (he limits whi '" his pnprr, wli •Mir arrival in Ti One further i TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. .150 35(1 & r sr :^Sr ' 't,t '-'-' r- -^'«»' .ndicaledbymy dipping need .was 89- 59™^"' ° ^ ^'P' «" one minulo cf the veriical • wHIIp^L ! ""^ \^^'"S thus within pole if not its actual exi^et t^^^^^^ '' '^t '' '''' '"•'ned by the action, or rather bv thp 71 1 V"^^' f"''^^'' «°»- horizontal needles then in m7po4 s^n " Z "' '^' ''''''^ m the most delicate manner Lssbthn/ fJ "^^'^ suspended showed the slightest effor Tatl' f 1'^ ''''' "^' °"« ^^'''ch 't was placed : a fac , wh ch even H *" *''" P,'^^'^'*'" '" ^^ich of reaciers must no v kioVto be 00? » "".'^'^^'^'y '■"'''^'•™«'* --rattractionliesata:^tmZ,;:t::;!;arSn;J^^ I'ole and L adjoining terrUorv„T'""" °' r'V^ ^"'"^'^ ^^'««"«'i' King William the Fou h ^'V!, r"*!* '^'^^''^Z' «ntainand ;H..ding in the fragmentof Z^Z tttv^odlet: t' '^' :^:^?:irt^s;i -e magniS:t5:;'S ^ regretting thrt w^ ia3 n't the "Z „f '^' !"'""""« ''"•^' ^ -"'y •nore importance. ZolVnZltj:^^^^^^^ «auhsof timeand of the Esquii^Jl'f ^''', ^"''''^'"^ "^« «»- largeasthalofCheops/lamnTni ' 1u ^''" " Py«""'J «« 'noie than satisfy our ^nbiZ untrhV^f " ''?"'^ ^''''^^'^^ day. The latitude of MsO ^S^^^r ^""^ ?' /''«' ^'"^ '»'"« ^fi 15 west. P ^" ** ' ^ ' «"^ 't^ longitude Ofi" part of this ."estil 'd^iro-ntrCe'le:^^ ^^"'"''«« ••urtaihng these. During o. r absm. "p r «f 'as^^ng over or down all tho curves of L^.I . ' ' ''°'«««0'' »«rlow had laid •he point of theircon ur X -ZZa 7''" " ^^ ^^^^^ i' determined by observatb7"ro:.ldsrifnK P"'"'' "' ^•«""«' '« »»« >l.e power of navigato s I va, .0 . 7." •'"" ""? '«" ^''»''" return, that the pifce wl id I had t uX '"' '?« " '•"^' «° «'"• '•no where these curve7X.Wu''.?'""'^ was precisely that •"•en IHotracteTo'h rnt: fi ':rarT'""'^rV'; ^^""'''^' •""' "'«V •t«e., particulars in a n3.TllH ' ."r'' '' ' *<"""< »'«'re state "'the limits whicM iZd all? '""""'.r' '"''""^'' *' '» »'«''«•"'•' '".r arrival in rnglnml "y"' '^""""y "'" '""""'« hefore "-'- the., remark I must y.t bo permuted .o„,,e:. nee. '.'i liUO SECOND VOYAGE 01' DISCOVEIIY relating what lias been doue, it would leave an important question imperfect did I not also note what remains to be effected. It has been seen, that as far as our instruments can be trusted, we had placed ourselves within one minute of the magnetic pole, but had not lixed on the precise spot ; presuming that this precise point could be determined by such instruments as it is now within the power of mechanics to construct. The scientific reader has been long aware of this : if popular conversation gives to this voyage the credit of having placed its flag on the very point, on thesuminii of that mysterious pole which it perhaps views as a visible and tangible reality, it can now correct itself as it may please ; but in such a case, while a little laxity is of no moment, the very nonsense of the belief gives an interest to the subject which the sober truth could not have done. To determine that point, with greater, or with absolute precision (ii indeed such precision be attainable), it would be necessary to have the co-operation ofdifferent observers, at different distances, and in different directions, from the calculated place ; while, to obtain all the interesting results which these must be expected to furnish, such labours should also be carried on for a considerable time. What these several expectations Are, I need not here say, since the subject is, in this view, somewhat too abstruse for popular readers ; though I may barely allude to the diurnal and annual motions of the needle, and to the variations in the place of the polo itself, with the consequent deductions that might be made as to the future in this respect : all of them being of the highest importance in the theory of magnetism. Having thus therefore stated, however briefly, what yet r^. lor future observation, having pointed out what, I may fearlessly say, is still w?nting, and which, as such, claims the attention of those who have the power of promoting a work of this nature, I can only ex- press my wishes, if I dare not indulge in hopes, that the same nation which has already carried its discoveries so far, (hat our own Bri- tain which has already established its supremacy in scientilic and geographical researches, will not now abandon them, and leave to «»lhers to reap the crop of which it has in this case sown the seeds. That the place for the needful observations is now far more acces- sible than it was once suppp4M, has been proved by our own voyage and its results; so that the main difficulty is at least levelled, and the rcadiestexcusethatcould have beenoffered is no longer of any wcighl. The chief object of our present expedition having thus boon ac- complished in a manner even more satisfactory than we could have CHppcted, and in a shorter time also than we had iiiiich right to an- ticipate, I birame desirous to c.vlcnd our knowledge of the country JS Itlliril lllI'llll'P Ilk lli.i n/>i>ll.>.w>...l „^ ll... .1..!.. ..r 4! ■ I — ,,.,. „,-!«iirt«tM aa tiic Diaiv ul UUI" IIUlCi aUll Ul our finances, I'nluckily, d day to this ofc with the raci similar natui part could ha was a wish tl, of this nature I therefore care of Blanl our day-like northward. in the mornin] elevation. V signed : but h north to the d eluded that it as Cape Wall stones, to marl and, returning morning. In our absei pose of examii eight inches. quarter of an somewhat less We had no( the southward, thermometer r longer annoyei I more torinentii perature and t grecable niannt more moderate (lie ship. I'or this hast without any thi 'oiild reach the Ijoping all the m "0 equally hunfj Ihat store on wh iiistij. We rea( •liird, at seven o Tlio gale had w iiii so much dr TO Tlia AUCTIC IlEGIONS. 3^,, .lay to this objecr I con o,"lv w hTl "I' '" t'T "'"'"^ '^'«" "°« with the meins of ZKn^ '^bn as on Z Y' '''° '^*"''* ''""'"^ eluded that it nicseivnd in nil .... V l i'V"''V """"' * ""'" "'^^ <^on. as Cape WalK7«tiV74rT,-"''''iy' ^^« ^^•"^ "^''-ection as far stones, to mark the ntrriimll f ^"^^ erected a cairn of n.ermo,nete rose rr ttiL'''"'^^^ t' ' '""^' «" ^^f"«'' ^^e longer annoved us 1 ,1 r '^ »'"""• ^^"^ ""''*' *''«'*«» «« '"ore moderate ahoutXo o'Hnr 1 ^ ''^"' f' ""*' ''•''^«™« ihe ship. " "'"'''*' ^« co""uenced our return to •ould reach the Icowl :.L„ I 7. .' 'f'"?^ ^upperless, until we no equally 1« V and m """" ."'"»''*' '"''''^ *»'"' »'^ ^car, o,' 'ha.lreo which un «"7"»'«''^i"K native, had disoove ed last.. We Poa td^^^^ 'a T r "' f ""..""""y '*"PP«"«"d •"»»>' break- TIh' gulc had now rcni-wcd iiMidl't an,! u „. i„„...i. m_ , »iUi 6o much dniiiiiif w..-..., ii . ;■ ' "Hf^u. u.cw a storm, nucu uniting ««ow Ihut .t was impossible t<» think of pro' i , i' i ' ^M - 1- ■ ill 863 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ceeding lor the present. About one in the morning of the 4lh, ji however moderated so far as to permit us to move ; and as we had i'xamined all (he shore on this route, in our progress forward, we now met with no cause to interfere with such rapidity as we could exert. Thus we reached the place of our former encampment at ten in the morning of the fifth. June 5. — There was now less than ever to delay us, as we had seen all that this line of coast could offer, and had done every thing that was to be effected. Our walk was, therefore, as much without note as without interruption, during the two days ; nor was I sorry that I had not to record occurrences and remarks which had long ceased to interest myself, as they must often have appeared (iresurnn to the readers, equally of my journal, and of that of Captain Hoss, indispensable as their relation has been. But I must nevertheless note, that on the 6lh, in the morning, we encamped on the spot where we had formerly been detained by the blindness of some of our party, already noticed, and that 1 hore repeated the magnetic observations which I had made in the sauif place during our progress forward, confirming by them that ac- curacy of w hich it was so important to be assured. Here also I had an opporl unity of cxaminmg my chronomet :r ; and was gratified to find that it had preserved a steady rate, since it was the watch by which 1 had determined the longitude on the coast which we had now quitted. At nine in the evening we crossed over to the south-east point of the inlet ; but the ice being very nigged, and some of the parly lame, we did not reach it till seven in the morning of the Vth. Al two on this morning the thermometer was al only four degrees above zero: that being a severity of temperature which we had never before experienced at the same period of the year. On the evening of this day, al seven, we set forward once nu)rr towards the now well-known Neitchillee, having chosen this road lor returning to the ship. During this route, and early on the fol- lowing morning, we arrived at a place where we found a large party of (he natives assembled ; the silualion in question being ahoiii three miles westward of Cape Isabella. They were busily occu pied in fishing; and their prey consisted of the two species of cod, described in the Appendix of Natural History, by the names Cadiis ^Iwchica, and Callarias. These they took through some holes whi<;h they had made in the ice for that purpose; and we discoverrd (roni (hem, that this fishery was a very prodm live one. Our ap plication (or a supply was readily granted, and it proved a vnv welcome one to all of us, limited, both in (iuantity and quali(\, ib we had now been for some days. ironi this, after rrsiing about two hours, wr proceeded onward- lo Cape Isab dense fog nc \ory uncerlal endured as m morning; wh( practicable, at iifljiossible to i ^increased dens June 9.— B mist, bad enou such obslrucli( llicre is no gui •'iaiit weather. power, that wt nliicli ran fron lliem : a far mi conceive, as it ilie first natura lliough it now aught that can i»f liiis most a ttlial it isi. If I here also lore done at Ca| "laller for the lan be consult( "lielher in mete I which it has beer I'lent : but as fa I'itper in the Tn ilioady alluded, I iii'iy be interested "I'l of this nam iliat they who an IS lor this simple "f l*adliak at ten I ol'lcn described, a ''liore till nine in t\ I point of a small in !•'' deer under pun ^t 'en in the c ^antageoiisly ti. n( I'K'i'h-east coriier I Whs .'iiiu iilixt.. ...1.: ''^■•'* it discharge TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 3^3 ...orning; when, at stfl'l'^^s ouV'E /" '" '^"^^^'"^ practicable, and encamped neVPal i.^ h! '^ f 'T ^' ^^^ uiT'ossible 10 travel anv f..wE!p Tfu ' ^^'""^' '^"""'^ '' "«erly f i^eased density of tlH^l;'' '' '^'' *""^' '" ««n«eqnence of the >n'Chl!'J.^l!Zfu^^^^^^ it cleared away; and this horrible such obstruction 7s le7u2.T \' ^"' '""'''^'^^y ^«'-«« «•"'ci'- Is l ,ere "f .1,1, m„s, ai^ii Is r7Z"f''rr'^"'' ""'"■■• iilialilis, """'™ '">. ' know not »(.|| n^.ybeinteretedinthMS I r '?''"" '' '^^ '^''' ^^- ".".I of this narra ive tL oat of Ih' ^r'"''' '''''^'^ '" '^^ "■a< .hey who are ISi , Ty ee Vt lU ^^ 'T''"^ > lor tills simple ioiirnil fn 3 n . ^ *^*'"*"''*' '•^'^"''s- '< «ll'<"c till nine in .he nZS iho^ .?! '""?? ".'""« "^ •^""""'^" point of a sn.all inlf ZltTn^l ' """ ''"""'' "" ^''^ "«''^''«''" '" .leer under p^Sl IT' » "' ''^"""' ""' ^^"'"^ « ""•"^>«'- ^a"ligo:;virSdrf:rr7f '" r "'""" p'-- -'-»• "^j- w«K ...... „^,." . • .' '"" '"'^*'' •" «•'<'«''• to ascertain whether .1...... TOnimiinitaJed ■"* ( > discharge (his (.ollrcdon of .Jelween it and its neighbour, waters into the sea. Thus if li 'i^ i nil i i f-f" SUl SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY proved, and we thence ascertained that to be a I'acl which had loi merly been only a matter of conjecture. At three in the morning of the 1 1th, we arrived, in this om homeward progress, at another place, now familiar from its havinir been a spot of rest during more than one of our former journey's; but it presented at this time a very different appearance ironi whai It had done on the corresponding day in the preceding year. \[ the same place, during that journey, we had been obliged (o wade knee-deep in water for nearly two miles, in crossing to the head o| the inlet of Shag-a-voke. At present all was solid ice, there was not a drop of water any where to be seen, nor was there the slightest mark to indicate the commencement of a thaw. Can it be believed that there were but ten days to Midsummer, that all was slill hard winter, and that winter in the middle, 1 may almost say, ol summer : a season such as the January of our own native laiul ■seldom sees. It was no small satisfaction for hard-worked men and hungi v stomachs, to find on the opposite shore of this inlet, some provisions which had been deposited for us by Captain Ross; and, lakini^ possession of them, we crossed the two next lakes and encamped, at six in the evening, near the head of the bay into which their water finds its exit. Here we were detained by a heavy storm from the south-west until noon on the 12th of June, when it began to moderate, and templed us to proceed on our now last day of labour; the ship being at length within our reach. But our attempt proved vain. The gale was soon renewed with increased vijlence, and ihe snow drifted so densely as to entirely blind us to our way, so (hat we were compelled, in spite of all our efforts and wishes, to halt and encamp at nine on the following morning. It was an unusual disappointment. If we had on many former occasions been as wearied, as hungry, and as anxious to reach our companions and our home, we Lad now more interesting news to relate than had ever occurred ta us before; but we were to exert our patience, al least this once more, and exerted it was. But this trial of our tempers was not destined to be very durable. The gale at length moderated so far, that wo could contrive to sec aud lU our way; and having but ten miles remaining, we bestirred ourselves in proportion, even till midnight ; when, after as much hard labour as we could well manage, and might not have endured if not under such a stimulus, wo ncared our home ; still labouring with all our power tilt we found ourselves at Icnulh, and once more, on board the Victory, at five in the morning olllie I3(h of June. We had been absent twenty-eight days. II we were fatigued unU extenuated, who could be surprised i' but cx- Oh^ervo Til DATE. u the T 1831. Feb. 15. \oo 28. 1 P. March i. 2 p. It. Noo 15. 1 p. 21. ti p. 22. 4 p. 23. 3 P. 2i. 2 P. 25. 3 P. 30. 3 P. April 1. 2 P. 4 p May 28. 8 A. 2 P. June 1. Noor 3.P. B 5 P. 1 7 P., 2. 9 A., llA.i a. 8 A, » 8. 9 A.M 9. 8 i.M 17. 2 P. M 5 p. If July 13. 2 P. H Aug. 12. 1 p. M 20. IVoon. Oct. 21. 10 A. u 22. J A.U 25. Noon. Nov. 21. Noon. 22. '. p. M. 23. i I P. 11. Dec. 24. i Oa.m. i p. M. 1832. 1 Jan. 21. 1 Voon. Feb. 16. 1 p. M 18. i p. u. March 17. |3 p. H. 27. 2 p. M. April 13. . 15. . tcpling pclly grievances, wc wore all in good hcullh TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. :!liha(l for in (his OKI I its having 'joiiincy's; ti'om what : year, ^i ed to wado llie head ol ire was not slightest be hehcved 1 was still osl say, ol lalivc laiul nd hiingi'v provisions ind, taking; encampiMl, vhich their soutli-wost orate, and '; the ship ovcd vain. I, and the uy, so that 168, to iialt in unusual ns been as anions ami than hatl alienee, at ry durahle. rive to see lining, we rhen, after might not lur honie ; at length, tiing of the IH. If we i* but cx- 3i)5 Ob.'.rratiovs on the Dip of the Mar,netio Needle. DATE. 1831. Fel). 15. 28. March 1. k. 15. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 30. April 1. May 28. June 1. Time III' the Dav I'olesof the N.idh (liietf. I'lileinf iheNielle reversed. iVoon. 1 p. M. 2 p. II. Noon. 1 p. M. k P. U. k P. M. 3 p. M. 2 p. M. 3 p. H. 3 p. H. 2 P M. 4 P M. 9. 17. July 13. Aug. 12. 20. Oct. 21. 23. 23. Nov. 21. 22. 23. Dec. 2i. 1832. Jan. 21. Feb. 16. 18. March 17, 27. April 13. 15. 8 A.M. 2 p. H. Noon. 5 p. M, 7 p. M. 9 A. u. II A.M. 8 A, M. 88 49 -53 89 29-72 89 22 80 89 13 8 89 6-15 88 23-14 88 47-7 88 51-42 89 1-27 88 43-65 88 43-36 88 53 27 88 48 04 89 48-87 89 55 71 90 2 75 90 0-71 90 1-79 90 12-25 90 4-62 89 54-08 89 42-38 Observed Liip. 89 3-42 88 35-51 88 35 88 51 25 88 56-55 88 57-97 89 11-59 88 47-29 89 4 89 8-42 89 12-0 89 5-27 89 2-04 89 34-2 89 28-83 89 54-29 89 54-71 89 50-15 89 5b -67 HEMAKKS. 88 .10-47 89 2-61 88 58- 89 2-52] 89 l-35[ 88 40-56\ 88 59 15 88 49-36/ 89 2-64 f 88 56 04 88 57 68 88 59-27 88 55 04' Mean observed dip al She- rill s Uay m lat. 70''1'N and long. 91" 54' W Va' nation 96» 12' • 3 w previous to niy journey towards. he magnetic pole -88»57'04Nr(1831) 89 59-14 89 58 17 89 37-54 8 A.H, 2 p. u. 5 p. M, 2 p. M. 1 p. M Noon, 10 A. U 9 A.M, Noon. Noon. 1 p. M. 1 P. H. 10 A.M. 1 P. M. 89 30-58 89 14-04 89 21 03 89 13 33 89 34-8 88 33 65 89 14-57 88 53 89 20 40 88 49-04 89 20-35 88 44*37 89 4-53 88 58-47 Noon. 1 p. M 1 p. u. 3 p. H, 2 P.M. 89 7-40 89 24-12 88 56 67 89 17-98 89 21-5 89 11 89 16 97 89 10-07 89 29-32 89 40 0.1 89 6-2 89 2 98 89 15 1 89 7 89 21 -52 88 42-31 88 35 03 88 53 93 88 22-47 88 24-65 88 34 88 88 44 88 38-48 88 339 83 30-22 88 49-45 88 9 3 88 33-2 88 31-62 88 34-12 89 41-53 (89»41';9N.Variation57"15' 89 5852 89o58'-lirf.A«umeddireet i „°' "'*"''- S. 75«W.fTruc \ 89 55-97|89"'59'-465N.DittoN 6o"w- 90 2 96 1 ^'t. 70O5' 17' Nj loJl' on . o J 96° 'IS' 48' W. ^" 89 56:?2P^:f'^-..A""r'^ direction ij I of meridian N. l5o \y Same position as on the 28th ol May. At Cape Isabella. Lat. 69o26' ./°';'o"K-93»51'W. At Padleafc. Lat.69«30' 1' • 4-22) '""g- »3' 27' 52' W. ' 3. 79 ^Observed dip at Sheriff Bav Ix'lk) on my return from the magnetic pole 89'> 3 '•32 N (1831.) ^^' 89 40-19 89 22 33 89 17-18 89 89 89 89 89 2'36i i5o; 88 54-86 88 59-57 88 55.30 88 50-22 88 53-07 88 52.92 89 0-49 88 54-27 89 1-61J 89 5-31 88 57 82 88 36.14 88 54-15 88 49-31 88 ,57.82/ Observed dip at Victory Har- bour 88° 54 '86 N. Varia- tion 101o32'.03 W lit 70°9'l8'N;longyio3o 33' W. • h ''^ <>^ % 366 SECOND \'OYAGE OF DISCOVERY CHAPTER XLIir. Keinarks on tie Assignment of the Magnetic Pole. I HAVE not hilherlo thought it necessary to add any of my own remarks to the several journals ol' Coinmandijr Ross : if I do that on the present occasion, it is because I have reserved all my own magnetic observations for 'he Appendix, so that no opportunity of noticing the important question of the Magnetic Pole has occurred in ray own journal. It might thus have even appeared to the readers of our joint narratives, as if I had taken no personal interest in this investiga- tion : it might possibly be supposed, that in deputing to my acttve and intelligent nephew, iha entire charge of the zoology and bolanv of this region, I had equally referred to his guidance and labours, every matter of science, and contented myself with the management alone of the ship and 'ts crew. A popular feeling, alluded to in his journal, which supposes some profound mysteries to belong to the magnetic pole, aiid some singular miracle, or peculiar good fortune, or marveiious depth of science concerneJ in its discovery, as if we had unexpectedly found a mountain of adamant or some other wonder never witnessed, has thus also tended to make this product of our voyage a subject of discussions which are entirely misplaced, and can only be corrected by a clearer and simpler view of the subject. Thflt the voyage of the Victory has assigned I'he place of this particular magnetic pole within at least a very small distance, has Men seen; nor should I be surprised if it shall hereafter prove, that my energetic and philosophical officer had placed his foot on tlie very spot, notwithstanding his own doubts; since every man ol science, acquainted with the practical difficulties of this subject, whether arising from the imperfection of instruments, or auglil else, iTiust know how doubtful or uncertain a truly exact determina- tion of this nature must be; and how easily he may have been right, even when doubting of this himself. As his narrative has already observed, the supposed place had been long since indicated by many experiments on the dip and tiie variation of the needle, and, most of all, through those performed by (he personal attention or under the diieclion of Sir Edward of my own if I do that all my own Jortunity of »s occurred )f our joint 3 iavestiga- ray active and botany id labours, anagemcnl i supposes , and some lis depth of [ediy found lessed, has I subject of ! corrected ce of this stance, has )rove, that }ot on tlic 'y man of is subject, , or aught letermina- )een right, place had p and the lerformed r Kdward TO TFTE ARCTIC REGIONS. 867 S K Sr tS ' °" ""T "■"»»■«" 'i>«< we lomJenit m^i'lolt^ty'l' ""Ji"' ™ "•«"<« Itose which we had pro- ZTZl J rr'' "' " f'""»' "'■ie*' should eoable „8 S Behli """'''"f "■« norlhem shores of America, eve" („ S l'r„ o'/«aX"S " Z IT" '"'" '" ^'"^ ^""^ '^ On the several occasions also of our excursioim inlan,! iu- .Ue'^Lt::: '" tl'"' "ta.evero'i,r:rd'rd!S'pt;„":: iv?, J?hl ■' '":,';':' '"'™ '"'™ ""-lerlaken; and if i„ ihe narra Iread „r ""■'^"T »° °°'i« »f "-is subject has beca observed n„i..in„ „ ""servations, and because no resuU adrr Sng or tp which TrS '^^'^^'J^^^^arrated, when the successfi I evem an account o'fTr'T' ^'^ '' '^"?'' ^^'""''^'^ '^^ means of s'S given termtnafon of our labours as has just been progress in the approximation to the magnetic pole even cm.W Z .hich was 'sZTziTJr:::^" ™''" """"''"""""• S''di:t;rartrr.„'"r;%v*"A.-v'Vired i„ r: previous labours laidbrihe ^^i^Z^S;:!^ tZ vfl «■? iV S' 3(M SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Blanky and Abeincthy, under the immediate orders of my successl'iil nephew, heaven forbid that I should attempt to rob them of such honours as they are entitled to on this ground, or to claim the ei edit of having planted the British flag on this long desired spot with my own hand. Let this last closing act of my labours on this subiecl, as of theirs, confer such honour on this party as they may claim or deserve : I can say, like others, though in a quotation rather hack- neyed, " Palmam qui meruit ferat," and if 1 myself consent to award that palm to him who commanded this successful party, as is (he usage, it mdst not be forgotten that in this I surrender those per- sonal claims which are never abandoned by the commander of that flag-ship which so often gains the victory through the energy, intelligence, and bravery of the men and officers whom he directs and orders, or by the captain-general who carries a town through the courage and activity of the sergeant who leads the " forlorn hope." But if I have done this, I should not be justified in thus surren- dering the rights of the brave, and patient, and enduring crew ol the Victory, nor perhaps those of him, the noble-n..nded and ge- nerous, who sent the Victory and her crew to the Polar regions. It must be hereafter remembered in history, and will be so recorded, that it was the ship Victory, under the command of Captain John Ross, which assigned the north-west Magnetic Pole, in the year 1831, and that this vessel was fitted out by him whom I can now call Sir Felix Booth ; a name to be honoured, had it even remained without such a distinction, as long as British generosity and spirit shall be recorded as a characteristic of the merchants ol Britain. In this way and no other, let the discovery of the Magnetic Pole be now viewed ; that in doing justice to any, it may be - - held from none. Surely every man of this hard-used ship, from the highest to the lowest, deserves to share in the praise wliicli the public may award for whatever it was our good fortune to effect. It is but a small reward, after all, for what every one endured; and sweet as it may be, it requires much forgetfulness of our past sufferings not to feel that it was dearly purchased, while it would be hard indeed were this tribute withheld from such enterprise, such patient endurance, such toils and sufferings so long continued, and such a spirit of hope and energy, amid circumstances capable of sinking almost any heart into the depths of despair. Transactions (lur a'O THE Ammc REGIONS. 369 CHAPTER xrjv. Transactions during the Peraain.ler of Jr.ne IS-JI Ti.„ r or July "'"" ""•' "'" S" miliary «r,'„',7'MTf!'''°:-^^»"?'''eK«u.d Ihatno land could be seen, nor was he rean ^^ , '"■ ""'"^^-• or a single p„„l visible. The tZZJlZl , °f '■•'""■•8 -vater tbe firsl time. Some ,rou^ LSTT' ''»»"'™'-. ■»»» lo 40- for ^«. on tbe followT/re oTtb ', 6^' l'^ """ ""» -""y- ""d sbone afterwords, and (here IT, TJ It "?";''• J"' "«' »"" »l.ip. Tbat water W™ raVS'lLrC" 7'' ^ "'"' "^ noon, when some impression was m'^le ir,l' ''. "" "f*" «" Monday the dafw7.t;rrm'ard':.'''"r''' """"» P''*™»d. On Flocks 'of d„cks\nd7C;«e t"lt'™T''™ r f'-"-"™'' srouse were killed. ■""*' '" "'" """'l ""d some 4:L!.'i''tre,tir.ETr' r^-"* "- ■--- yet fallen, nor had the thpZnmJ ' ^,°°' ^ ''''«P «'^-ain I.ad four ho„; without reactnrtSrt"""' ™"'^' '^^ ''^""'^ «<" ^^«"tv- of this day, the f. r'ain fd lif "f ^T' '^"^ '" '^^ <^^»^^ -o^^^t[2^:Zn^^^:J:T}}r ''''''^'''' ^" •^'- night alongside of the ship. On Z 9^4fh ll . ^'""^Tfy ^^'^ ^' ;he thermometer was at lo» in the nornL r/,"^ '^^"'^"'' ^'"^'^^ freezing point till nine. On tho fl r^'f' '^"* ""^ ''«««'' «»'e point aUtLtwentv-foifr hoi rsihKtr'"^ '' ^«^«' ^h« f^<^-'^H A good many bird, cZs isS'- f f '"f ""'"^ •'^«'»'-d^y «g«i» had been kilL wilhiTSrp'asf d%T' '"^'^' ^""•^^' «»^ P''^"' 'l.e.rwafr;in; tt et;[frl'J °^''''^"" '^'^«"^^' ' «» J»I«»^day selves with wate" flth "sho e "YeHh '/"T f '^^^ «"PP'y -- 29lh, the thermometer falling to% I ! ' '? r^'' '^'•■"" *^" *'"^ 'he twenty-four hou.-s.^', but sl' ' tU7 '^' ^^'''' '^'' '"^«»^ '>' «™o the wea.herU„drt-^;L'j— f :;- t;:ft„: 'S 21 , I i, I 1 'I-' 370 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY passed the solstice, and were still to see nightly frosts, with little compensation in the day. A winter solstice in Enj^land is ver\ rarely indeed what the summer one was in this most miserable regioii anu most abominable climate. Such, nevertheless, is the climate in which man contrives to live. and, as we had no right to dispute, happily. He cannot drink water at Midsummer, it is true, till he has boiled his snow; and had he not wit enough to produce lire, he would have nothing to drink lor nine months of the year. He smells at no flowers, for there are none to smell at; but he prefers the odour of train oil. He has no carrots or " small herbs," for his soup or his seasoning ; but his soup and his seasoning are, alike, oil, and he can find a sallad, when his hiok is particularly great, in the stomach of a reindeer; and that sallad too, cooked in a heat of which the advantages have never been dis- puted. If he never saw that utterly inconceivable thing called a tree, what matters it, when he can construct coaches of lish, and splinter bars of bones? and if he can make his lodging, not merely " on ilic cold grouiul," but on the cold snow, his fare at least is not " hard ;' and why, if he thinks so, is he not as well lodged as the princes ol the earth, the marble of whose palaces does not approach in purit\ to the materials of his architecture, while his own marble house is erected in an hour, and can be renewed, like that of Aladdin, al everv hour of the day, in any place that he wills? Man must be a uolile animal, that is certain, be he even under the ligure and bcai-ing of a IJoothian Esquimaux: is there another beast on earth (hat could do all this, endure all this, contrive all this, conform to all this, to all this and more, and still be happy : happy if he is in Naples, happy loo in Uoothia Felix? Hut tluvt climate which suited those who know not another or a better, had a very different effect on our feelings, independently ol the actual sullerings and privations of which it was the cause. Where all the happiness was based upon the abundance of eatinfi;, and where there was nothing to prevent that steady supply of (lie materials of this happiness, which these specimens of man partook with the animal tribes to whom it constitutes the almost sole enjoy- ment and purpose of liiC, all that the severity or badness of llie climate could effect was nothing; nor, caring little for a hani wuiler or a long one, had they any reasons to anticipate a season, bad or good, to hope or to fear. The present state of things was very dif- ferent to US; whoso misery it was to lear, or to hope (e'•'""" coiUnniod ialliag toT • 1 / r'''.'^ "'" '"""^'"« ''»y' "'" t«''"Per«ture »« J I and the an lee|,n„ rxlrmnely cold. There was nnovv 91 • 'ir 'i1% SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY at nine, and it moderated. Commander Ross went out shooting with a party, and met a collection of five native families, all strangers to us except one, who had been once on board during th.« former summer. They pitched their tents for the night, and live of the men came tc even as it di( the feudal sy this theory, i equally read feelings of d produced th approach to partaking of now under n an aristocrac leave it to ot pahny stale o tend to show solution of th the other sex, July 4. — 1 some clothing promise to ret both on this c freezing point informing us t where we pro engaged to ac( July fi. _ I. arrived at the party was gon account fort hi one of ihe mat ''hoi the old fei I'elix there is ti liaving sufficiei birds, wore sh'. •lay ; which las TO THE ARCTIC HEGIONS. 3.3 for .h». idolat . Iw J:™^^':':'"' t" '■"» i "■»"■ i' "0 leisure of admiraliou ora,, «,e„?^'^f,"™" '' ''^' ">«". as obje..s, either while it is also tn.P Tu, !. ' , ""'.' ™''''' "" ""»' """U starve- carry «■» men out of't'lt,". ^ .alTr'ts^f Iw ^""r' '." Dutcli coasis, where also anv infn! ^ ^ r , "'^^ 1 rench and the men, would be Lilted h^ '"'^^•"^^•^'"«"t "f ^I'^^e on the part ol knows how to use ^ "'^ ''""P''" ^'•'•^'' '»'« ^''^^ 'o well this theory, „ the rere.L manner ]" ^'"'^^k republics in proof of equally ready to ami t e Tn U.d"!'' '" ''l^T ""^' ^''^' '« "«^ produced that negle'cl, at L t^^K : t 'TvhiV"" '^""'^' ""'' appioach to oppression is cc^,,\A I .■' ^. '" '*=' "*-'*'" «» partakingof Eilfope a" i do" ' '^ ^^^ '" " -""'17 - *-• now under review, this theory doe ,0 '0^^^ ^''^'"''^ an aristocracy, as there is in S\Z '^^^' ""^ *''*'•"'' "* ""^^ even leave it to others to 0^; tl.i ?', ""^ f^"^?"'"'^"^ ' «" ^''«^ ' '""^t palmystateo the fai nortio/^f 7 = ^^'"^ this history of the tend [0 show tLat no ^P^'^^^X^n^^"' '^'^^ ^^> «'^" solution of the creat aJLul i .''^'^^'^ "* competent to the the^other sex, ifs'rurrLTdt ''' '"'""'"^ ^'^ « ^^ some clfihin Jt^d Sles'i::;.'";!;'^; 77''"' ''' P'«'"'-' •'••'"fi-K promise to rc'u^n w ^^i^^ s t aid ' T^ "^^ '^"•^"' -''"' " both on this day and he mpv, T ""."' '"^•- ^*'^''« ^'«« «now. ••■•eezing point at "tht ui." ^'"'>''«''"<'-"«ter still fell to the where we procured tJ.e tUI. I? '.'"' '*'"'''"'<' ''>' the liver engaged to'lcc-rplny tht ^"•' = "' "'"^'' *-'""-"'-• Kos, ar;ISt";i.riu:^,:;r tirfi"^ '""."''«" "-• «>"'-- ^ad party was KoncT 2 di;:^ t? ^Se S^ll^' 't" '"^^"' "7l '''« account for (his chanK." of nian A lin -^ ' '"*'''*' """'*'*• '" -e of the .uates, whli'l^d't ed ^ ' 1 1^ tS™ f ^'^''^^'^^ '^^ shot the old female and bro.ml.r, . 1 ^""■^•'' f^'*""^ ""*' »'elix there is not « Ht 3 ^ ^ '" '^'"'^ •^'"'"^- '" »^"<>'hi« having snmcie,:^!' ;..! :^ A Cir^'du V'""'^ ''"^ '7"' birds. wciP «l.,./ Ti. ;. . ^^""> *hicks, and sonu; other •lay : whirh >^^r.„^:.r;i::;^,i::zz:^' '"" """' 371 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVEUY July 10. — There was a fresh northerly breeze to-day; and it was very cold. On the following day, it was more squally, and the maxiniiuii of the thermometer was but 37". On the 1 2th, tliere was tlie highest tide that we had ever seen ; since it rose to more than eighteen feel, being4he third day after the moon's change. Our sport was very successful ; and we found among other birds, the Lapland linch m ilh its nest of eggs. The thermometer rose to 40°, but fell again on the next day, which was very cold, with sleet and rain and an eastcrlv wind, so that the evening ended at 33°. I contrived to take several llsh, on these days, by means of the spear which the natives use for this purpose. July 15.— This morning displayed a mixture and succession ol rain, snow, mist, and clouds; any where else, it would have been a bad 1 5th of November instead of a 15th of July, and it nearly froze at night. Two of the natives came w ith thirty pounds of salmon, in- forming Jis that (hey had many more; on which it was settled that Commander Ross should go with a party to fetch them; ajourni v that would occupy four days. On the 1 6th, thermometer reached W", being the finest day we had yet see" during this year; and (/ommander Uoss, with the surgeon and eight men, accompanied by the natives, departed. Why did we not believe it a fine and wanii July day? It could have been but 84" in England, and when our (Christmas heat was but eighty degrees under that of our own country, why should we not nave thought a difference of no more than forty a precious boon? July 17. — It continued still line in the day-time, but the thermo- meter sank (0 34" at night, and it froze oi: Monday morning, thongli the heat of the day was again 44°. It could scarcely indeed \w otherwise , surrounded as we were by snow and ice, on which all that a nocturnal sun could do was without effect. It did not mate- rially change on the lOlh, and, in the absence of the rest of niv companions, .uy time was passed in taking angles and observations, and in shooting, while (he men on board were busy in caulkini,'. Our boats were sunk in the waler, fo preveiK them from splitlint;. July 20.— The mate and live of the men arriveor(ion bf'longed to a store <;." the former year, and was not, therefore, in very good condition; thirty-seven, taken in the present (»tu«, weighed 12!> pounds. After rest and n freslunenl, the nuui set out again at nine in the evening, with (luce days' unnc provisions, the pontoon, a net, and three dogs, to join (-ouiuiandci Hoss, whoremainetl fishing, with the natives, at the place where lie had appointed them. July 21. -Theweadier was the same; llierc was a warm du\ with a eoid niglil. J shot a hare in ith simuner coal ; and the i ptarmigans before. I n^ birds here tl day wereun the young, a was some r season. Tin teen bund re purpose of b These arrivei day was full ways ; amou} of those four sand pounds July 24.— sence of neai of snow bunt rear them up on Monday, n the sledge fiv them. Mr. 1 they had restc cleaned and ' these found ei July 20.—^ had been renj hundred, whi( Coninmnder li at one haul. found they coi even had the !!ow, and no y back on the sai deposited. July 28.— ( pardes were oi were as many all, five thousa thousand of tlu pelling (hem to having left (he rest could brinj with three hum «'!zed with epi •U TUB AUCTIC REGIONS. a;., £:'"n^(!;Stur' ^'-^H-^^"- ?•"-«« sou. Uaie birdTlere iTn r I " ' »"" V^"" '""'^'^ greater variety of small biruh here than wo had Mipposed last year : many that I saw thU day were unk.mwu to im : hut 1 „.et with L nest of Landn pe, wUh was'sZ: "in 'a "'^"'" "" ^'^ '""•^"•"^ '^^y- 0" that'r 'tEe .^a on Tl n '■"'■" ■"''!'^ "'^ y«'' •" ^'"« extremely backward purpose of bringing l.ltr'hSr^d wSlvrrtltl'^ Jiv w s i ~^'!"':'^'y' f -iJnight ; and the whole of the net ways, among wl.ieh, HO\m were preserved in vinegar. The weiirhf id'Zmr 'rl"'' "'T "."/'^^« ^P'^-^'"-' -oeedldVZt I ,P o ? u '''*'* " «''*'"^ addition to our stock. sence of t";;]! dl n I"* ^T^l ^'""g'-egation to-day, from the ab- nf?nn K '^ ^'". '"'"'•'*'' ''"^''^ ^«« "« '^f^'-vice. I found a nest ol snow buntmgs ready t(» lly, which I brought on board honinrto rear them „p ta.ne. Five of the men from L second paVZ^t^^^ tl e Jle Vr'uS':^^^^^ • '''"^y ''^^^ '"«^ '•-"• -y> an/had left t erf Mr ThZ I I ''"''"«' .^^'T improperly, no officer with pI L , ' -/r'" • "'1 '•'«' «'«'maining men returned with them after hey had rested, and at «ix, (hey brought back live hundred lih eanod and we.ghmg IfMM) p«,„,ds. The curing and packing of these found employnunit for every one. ^ ^ July 20.— The jMirty again set off for more fish, after the sledffe had been renaued, and on the next day, they .eturned with two .t oT ha .1 T ; ^ ''''"'' '""''"''' '•'«* '''«y •'«'» ta''"" 3378 fish q.lj;ou& ...i;i^ 5?8._(:omn.«nd.!r Him arrived, reporting that both his aH.es were on the.r way, wi;h live hundred fish : and that the e wnr. as .nany more .,» bring from the island. They had taken in a , J.ve honsand an.! HiMy..even, hut were <,bliged to leave tl.'reo .sand of t u.n to the native- , the breaking up of the ice " m! .. ll.ng hen. to ,put their poni.ion. At five, the first party returne" I iv.nglet the sledge two milen off. One of tlu-m L k a d tl e ■est could br.ng ., „o fnrlho... The seeo.ul pa.ty came in at oigla, 111. ol all the noilheni .shores where salmon abound. By acc(.mpanyiug us in our fishery, the natives hail now, h»r llu hist time, seen (he use of a net, and what is mil always the case TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS S77 Ihe maceriab l„ wliichhevareliS ''*?,"''' 2^'" ^'"'^ whether oate any .hat conld 'be Su^eT ^ iS tCd V'™ '" ■■"""- the fact, then had we taueht thnm o ",""^,^''""'^' however, prove present ol knowledge wS to L J '"''r f 'J" '"^'^'"S them a in this too, improving hSond Hon' ''^'^' ^''^ importance ; the useful tools and ma erials wS, Tf'T '^'^''"^ ^*'«" ^y all One consolation ^ as ^t had dV^ °'«''^" '' ^^em' tion with them ofa morP Z K .^"^^"^ ^'""^ our conimunica- all theadvantagt!^^ ir we td ^"V«''«''^'>'« remembrance than We had sold tl.en '1 1^1^^'""" '''^'" '" ^''« ^"^y «f ^rade. them, nor had ^in anvSn?. '"'•'u^"^*^^ "« ^'«^«««« ^^ong jure their hea hhs %o .t„£llT ^^^^^ to corrupt morals or in' we had found then No. LS k '1 '"'"?"' «'" '^«« ''«PPy than make them discmiTented wUh H ^ '"'"''' '"y^'''"^ f'"^ "«' to condition. On'hrcmuiarv^ ""^ ^''^^^^ inevitable happy as we had fou'^T.V v V'^ '''" '^'P^^ *« '«'^^« 'hem as would hereafter so roro ) hv n ' '"'"f " '" ^^''"^^^' ^'>^t they knowledge and ingenui v wl irl^ T' TT^^'^ ^"'^ ^y ^''« ^'"'P'^ys of the various ulfT " 1' ^1'^ they had seen with us, as well as by augu.enttheiroti^SuirvaX:!^''"''^'."r"^ "•^'"' ^ ^' comlitio^of lile as ^r^S ts": ^ V" ;^;Zr^^ ^'^^'^ •nga task which was Tenderid i !^' «"'seivesfor not undertak- oloureommuLtion and their^'r'^'' ^^ '^'' '""''^'^ °«ture licieney in their lang";! we at lea? ""/ T'T""' •^" ""•• <*«" power: by endeavour'^! ioTnstrio one of L' ""'^ ''1'""^' '" «"•' •I'is failed, I have Ibrmerly s "ol W» ^"' y^"''"'' *^"^ *'°^ I'ave committed so mml ev? . f'"' ""^igators in general Lave visited, even tl "ittve co^"^ '^^ '"'^^ '''^'' ^'"'^^' *hey Uilation : while we can now ?r I '^ ^''' " '"*"«'• of «elf-congra- people no mo i. Reflect ^h'nlel^'"'' ""1 ^''^" ^« «'>«» ««« these Iven on wha twx d j ind.d2 ? "" '"'!"' ^'^ "^"'^^^^ ^« ^o, and should theylr^gat'be t^a\:« V""'' '" ^^'^ '^"«'"' '»'«^ '"ory may he hande< down n . i- ^ ? ^"'<^V'<^^ People, our me- '")-^<'riou^ a fame ttr: errdstV'"'"'^'r".;^'''P""'^'y' «^ Tlio chief observation^ m„X • . "^ """'*' "' ^^«"«o (^apac. Uial refra..ti.,n tl oi7 l/;' i;," ''!''" '"""^^^ ''^'^'e *« "'« terres- was practicable. ^ , o 'cti "J " "T ^'?r. ^^""^'""^''^ ^^ »•"" '''^^ tm-nted. o"e,4,oni, ,n natural history had been aug- ■h m i:. jnM ^f"'^M '-'< ^^^^^H ;-ii '^H h'i 378 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCO V EH V oHing " hard and fast : » in the preceding year, at the same tisnc it was all m motion, and the bay presented a wide extent of don- water. 1 think it proper to state here the mode in which onr new sni) phes of lish were managed and disposed of. Account of the Supply of Salmon obtained at the River, nnd revmml in Jul,j,Wi\ Seven casks of salmon pickled in hot vinegar, in N" 1378 One cask pickled and dried 144 Siigiuly salted on the rocks .... 177 Fresh split and dried on the rocks . . ' '. |;(| In jars pickled with vinegar ..... ft(( Used for the ship ......'. ui) Kept for present use . . . . . 27 Specimens ■-....._ 07 Received in bags afterwards . . , . \ 302 2h:iu Three himdred were afterwards brought to the whip, but oiiK thirty-six were lit for use : the rest were given to tiie tlogs. CHAPTER XL VI. .lournal of August 1831-Thc Victory moved out of her Ilarhour-Attompts „. proceed a ong the Hiore-the Ship forced hy the Ice into another llarbour-Snni mary of the Month— Journal of September, and its Summary, I ^H\ *'~*' ^^* ''"^^ weather : a party went for (he reinaiijder ol the hsh and relurned to dinner. The ship had long been heeling (0 starboard very inconveniently; but she was now cut round, and came upright. The refraction was very extraordinary on the followintv day; and the 3d was (rue summer weather. On (his dav (lie icr gave way near the ship, so that she advanced half her length. It rained heavily on the ne.\(, and she was moored by n hawser to a large iceberg outside of us. Aug. 5.— 1( was cold again. The gunpowder was brought 011 board, and the whale boat repaired. On (be (l(h, a paity on slioir observed the ice in motion to the north-eastward, for (lu; (irst tiiiio. There was one large pool ; and the separation appeared (o cxteiul Irom (he i.slands (o (he back of (he soiKhern hill. Ou Sunday, it had enlarged considerably, and was s(ill increasing on Motidav, wnen liic ice was al.so visibly in niodon, though i( did no( o|ioi) much. OnTu obliging us to Aug. 10.- I'ur(her chanj The following further, and g no change ; bi original friend (wo days off, lor sale. Thi and were (real Aug. \'A.~' amount of t,v€ lish and fat, ^ (0 their tents ;. of variety or ai Is there anj utter deslitutioi or amusement, converse of oiu elernal weariso and (ides, and i verse of these { language we co believe, more tli ■it all. Let no ^ months, first, ar 1 iiave passed i t^vils of cold, an did not die nor we had to shan sickness which j iliey make but a a much smaller < not also undergo iiigsof disappoin all, those longing from which who IHends has ever il could not but lliose friends am all (his; and (ha( want of oc(iipa(i( iiieiKal extnijon, Hi') for want ofs TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. g^^ uiucli. Oa Tuesday, tlie liii'ireif(>l»Pi-,r o 1.^ i c i. i„^!r L^gl'Tt'' ;m t",','' "'■'■"'•.'■;" "■»^'= "» "^ Tio f ,, . b^ '" "'C ice. the weather proved fosKv and rainv rhe followmg day was little different ; but wo hove Vut a Ittf; further, and got the KrusensternaloHRsde Oniho]l,hn no change ; but a party of the natives an'ivedinr.dn" '^^ original friends and six strangers ThevwP.'.^/?. ""' ""^ *'"'' ..:s :f,-2;c'rSi"5u's~-r ';'•*• ol variety or amusement. ""' piesent dearth It all. Let no one suppose that we hid nnt f«i. oii *i • f .f'*' we had to share with the rest of the world, those evils „f nettv sickness which are sufficiently grievous vvl.io To. !!< i ^ 7 II, (Lose lo„g,„gs a|,e,. „„, la,-Ji„a„, r,.ie„J»'a„ci our mtvelln rom ,v „cl, who thai l,a., voyaged far |V„,„ ,ha, hoL a^d £ r,dd ZT: ^°,'»""»1>' '• '^"'1 vvl.0 ,„„r, ,l,an wo "„ Jhl :i::' 'firi^ ': '1 To„Te™'' vt; ::: r ™«"' -™ '»^-i» - fi ii;i»; «"d .,.at ^rieiir^eido'nrrervoT":™;:'^:^ ai')i^.wa.„r.„e4:"'V;r's::;a:^.:K;'z!'!,^^ ':,, iiS, L .. 1:;; 880 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY day, she would be to-morrow: while if there was no variety, as no hope of better, is it wonderful that even the visits of barbarians were welcome, or can anything more strongly show the nature of our pleasures, than the confession that these were delightful ; even as the society of London might be amid the business of London ? In the night which succeeded to this day, the thermometer fell to 36«, and it was therefore far from warm : of course, the ice re- mained unaltered, as may be easily conjectured. It is difficult to convey to my readers the impression produced by this sleepy aad stationary condition of a sea thus impracticably frozen. When the winter as once in reality set in, our minds become made up on the subject; like the doimouse (though we may not sleep, which would be the most desirable condition by much), we wrap our- selves up in a sort of furry contentment, since better cannot be, and wait (or the times to come : it was a far other thing, to be ever awake, waiting to rise and become active, yet ever to find that all nature was still asleep, and that we had nothing more to do than to wish, and groan, and — hope as we best might. In this visit to the tents, we found that the wooden leg was once more ailing, in some manner of which I did not particularly in- quire, since the carpenter-doctor was at hand to examine into the grievance, and was ready to repair it as he best knew how. If, in this matter, he had always displayed abundance of good nature, I believe this to be a praise which was amply deserved by our crew in general, in all our communications with these people. I do not say that any of our men were not raally kind in i ir dispositions ; but certain it is, that good nature is not less contagious than the several evil passions, and that as one peevish or irascible person rende-s irascible or peevish a nature otherwise kind and gentle, or finds him to be of morose conduct who n another person or an- other society esteems as among the agreeable and the mild, so do gentleness and smoothness of dispositio i and conduct, on the other hand, produce the same character evf j where it may not actually exist; or, at the least, ensure the display of good nature, where an opposite temper may be the more natural one, and when morose or peevish conduct would have called that into its worst activity. Let the married, at least, profit by a remark to which the gentle tempers of our Esquimaux have given rise. They were not only kind, bul as Faistaff says of wit, they were the cause of kindness in those around them, including ourselves ; and perhaps, among ourselves, m one or two, who, with a different people, would have displayed a lar other character than they did. Aug. 14.— The natives were not permitted to come on board (ill alter church, when the boat was sent for them. The wooden leg Lad been bound with copper, and was better than ever. We f'-W TO THE ARC'TU; REGIONS. Toot"' '"■•"'•■ "»- » "«' '"«''^"^°v™harhi:;r?oi;:i ten of (hem came on boarri rhJi I '"o^ns- inconsequence, which had b..okenrooL"^ltt^l:e^:fcfi^ ^'^f '^^- amma s had been punished accordingly, and soZvLmoo ^T This always appeared to us (he greLeLt derTin ?h '^ '""r 'y- meslic conduct of this neoDle- and i.i!! T n^ general do- Ibe remarks and censure, nf 'nf. ^''" ^^"^"^ ^ «"»>ject for these races. xLy d "ve ^L sPrJ'^'T" 'f.'^''^^^^^^ a-nong appear to love them 5^3- Xa-Tril^ ^^^ '^^-^ fed: they would bo treated far r;i ^ "''''' ^"*^ ^"''se their indispensable uihty I mi' ftl 1" ''''' ^''^' f^--^ '^ "«' ''«'• race is not he.e of an amiable it , '" '''T' '^^' '*'" '^^^"'ne characterisonly^LL^h of fll T I"' ^''' ' ^^"«P«<^t that this domesticated and trea^d wiU, . ^1'' 'r '"'"'.:?'^ "'^^ ^^-^^ »hey among ourselves, 1 eyfvoT Id b as at"a?e7^';J^-^y ^"P^'''^"''' companions as our own are Ypt ' ^ . "* '^u'"" '""^'^''^ ^^^ W England doesrtf;:ati,]Kram^^^^^^^^^ and the comparison too between a pack of Brkish fn k' '"?""'*' a team of Esquimaux dogs would nnM» ""^'"'V ''"^''""^' «"«^ the part of our own cou„tVvmen Th '""'^ ''^ ''*'«^' «*" «" seal for their dinre^-s and^.T^L ^^'' '"'" T'" "■''^^«'' *« 'he after having previous.; ::ntTdi;;ro'I;Su'l-^'^^^ ^^-^l' s'^c:^r ::3"f -h. dis^::;,i::;r^: it became cabf/,re;;lrnrt';: /""''"'^^^'r^^ ''^'"' ^"^ weather miH.t return' inrroi-nn^^ U ^1^^ d'o^^ tt ^^'"'^ but no aheration took nhro in H,^ ■ a ■ , ^ ^'^ 'he next { 'I'e 20(h, a souh^-K b eeze mil' h '"^ *''"'" ''"-^^ ^^^'- «" coming round toX weTwa.d II e JT '"'7 " ^''^ ««^"^' »>"'• floating masses ceased on^rmoi-enoTll'V v'" ^''''' ^''^^ «»' ^i^^^le^pc .^peare^r S^i,r^^^^ which, a con- '"-t;^thet;;on^t^-it^::^^^^^^^ ■1 ; 'h ;i82 SECOND VOYAGE OF DItM OVERY Ptyon ihc new winter was alieady commencing. It was cold and fogj^^ „, Tuesday, but mild on llic lollowing day, and every thing remained •» it had been. The shooting oFano- her seal was the only vaiiely. Aug. 25. — The weather was miicii he same, but the ice near us was in iiM)lion, The whale boat was thus jammed between tin; ship's side and a large piece of these never-ending rocks, which, float away as they might, only departed to be succeeded by as badi or worse, since the storehouse which supplied them was inexhaus- tible. " Till the rocks melt with the sun" is held that impossible event, in one of the songs of my native land, to which some swain compares the durability of his alfection for his beloved; and I boiicvo we began at last to think that it would never melt those rooks, which, even at this late period of the year, continued to beset us in every shape which their beautiful, yet hateful crystal could assume. Oh! for a Ore to melt these refractory masses, was our hourly wish, even though it had burnt up all the- surrounding region. The injury which had thus been sustained by the boat was sucli that she could no longer be repaired so as to carry six oars, Wp therefore determined to construct a smaller one out of her, and sli(> was accordingl)^ taken on board. Another seal was shot. TIip thermometer was 38" at midnight. Aug. 26.--It fell to 34° the next nigl.i ; and the wind being from the south in the evening, the ice began to move, so as to show sonit' clear water. The tide was high on the next day, and floated oil so much oiit as to open a line of water, a mile in length, to tlip northward. Ducks of different kinds, with other birds, weie siiot with'.n these past days; and we had now a living menagerie on lioard, consisting of four foxes, three hares, and twelve nortlieiii mice. The wind blew strong from the westward on the 27th, and the ice began to drift out of the bay, to the eastward. But it was even- ing ijefore a passage was practicable. The ship was then warped a quarter of a mile to the south-west, into a convenicul place for taking advantage of the first opening. As soon as this was done. we got under sail, but, unfortunately carrying away the niiv;, i boom, could not weather a piece of ice. She was thus on;?!.! about by it, and equally failed in weathering a large iceberg on the other tack, which was grounded; by which means she took the grour.f! h(!rself. We soon, however, hove her off by hawsers (o tne she ^ ; aad though her bottom did not prove to be damaged, the lower ru. v. ;>.„ i,vas broken, so that there was an end to our progress T.; \is Jav Aug. i;3. - t si'iy iH the morning the rudder was repaired, and the wind reinait jd steady am- irongat west, with occasional snow. It was th^ very ■•\mii (hat w. wanted; and, after much doubt aihi inxiely, we I not yet free, reeled topsai loose ice. ( to the north- eastward of 1 squall, it bro therefore obli assistance fro north-west, a miles. Wel.Tu^ pi one, a heavy a our wind, and nearly laid us threaten for a (0 a rock on them, we were After this, how during which i be secure from out of the slrea currents. We therefor small river enlc two hawsers, violent gale car which compelle ice passing to t] occasion to be y feeling, the hard forgotten. Aug. 30.— It vas but 2-^:\ 1 ' gain, car yi|,g I inore, the passat Ross island, but" 'itude of this har further, I found proached within , tiipied by a chair Tliis cape was the uothingwasvisibh I'P into hummock I ("Stely blocking ii tidtoggyoa ; remained ily variety. ice near us clween (he 'ks, vvliich, by as bad, inexliaiis- impossible oine swain id I holie\ e ose I'ocks, beset us in Id assume, mily wish, )eing from *!A- TO TEIE ARCTIC REGIONS. .^^^ inxiety, we felt that we werp m la^< lu . j ... not yei free. We casU H H.p f ''"I- •' ^'^^'^^^^^ however, .eeled topsail, led fo ' L rnX't'l^^ ^""' '^'^ -'"' - loose ice. Unluckily, when a£m w ?b'^ ' '"''"' "P''''''^ '^ '>« to the north-west, and w" t.lL';:^^ -^''^ ^'"'^ '^^'n" eastward of them; after wh.rsSr^/!'" ''"''l'" ^ '"''^ '" 'he squall, it brought he .c-lC; a oijL VT^' with a snow therefore oblige! to pij k Lv"1 ?'•" '''^'■'^- ^^« ^^ere assistance from o.r n'^w eboa^c^ AM.i' "l'''. '''. '^''^"^ '""^-h • ;o,-west,an.we..res^etiil=;lS^^^^^ on^h:l;:£e;:^^:;;:;::;^^;-j^^ .ocks, when, .. o..r wind, and stand in for a Et' ^ ^^'^''^ obliged to haul nearly Jaid us on the roeks a'd tt^' '"f' \^''^"""" '''•^^^e threaten for a storm. Iboa't was erer'^"' ''^"'"^ ^*^»«" '» to a rock on shore; but sHpp.^r olF^T ''"' ''"' '^"^' ^^'-^--P^' them, we were ob]ig;d to let io the ll ^ ''''' ''''^""nfe^ «" After this, howeverf we weXtn-n'H T''^^ '■^^^'''"^^• during which we were awfto examine ,S ''l T'^'^^'' ^'"^'■«' be secure from all points o the eomol i ?,■ ""^'"'^ ^^ ^«"»d to out of the stream of ice wt„ that vva ,„''''' i' '"^ ^^«'P'«'«'v currents. ""^^ '"^^^ '"«^'"ff "»der the tides and We therefore warped to the h^ad nf d.;. „ u . -all river entered, a'nd immedialeiy mat ^aJtotr'? "'"\« iwo hawsers. No sooner, however had !^fi the shore with violent gale came on from (Hp «« Vk u'^^'^''"*' ''*'«' than a which cLpelled usTocan; Z Z^oCL^ ''^l^' '^^^^"-' icepassmgto the south-west with considSp ^.^.^^^''^^^^ 'he occasion to be very thankful thTt we ^^1 '^^'^'^^^ «"^ ^^^ eeling, the hard labour whi h everv one had' "T"- '^"^^'' '^'« forgotten. ^ '^"^ ''^^ undergone was soon 'nore, the passage wasTecn To be 11 1l , "'""'^ ''™» 'h" Ross islanj; bu.ihe wi^d Cs rfj ."ilf r"' w/?^ "/"."T" liludo oflhis harbour (o be 70« IS r I " j ^<^ '""id Ihe la- pioachedivUbinam!ieor,.s whl b^^ I '"' P""*"?" »P- c"l>ied by a .bain of ,„rSJ,'" a i,™:truf ™V™' °"- J im. h™„„eks::t?dtroi';;:"2:r:!:r-[^-;!;-« Pleteiy biockuig ub our late harhn.... h ""• ••'.■ -"O com- .^ b F our laie narboui . It seemed therefore as if we "hM ! if. fl , SS4 SECOND VOYAGE OF DIS(;OVERY gP( had just got out of it in time, whether it should be our fate to any further or not. Aug. 31. —The wind fell, and we went on shore to examine the, state of things in the strait; when we found every thing blocked up with ice : it was impassable. We shot two hares, and found them already in their winter dress. Round the ship, the bay ice was Ircublesome, but no heavy |)ieces came in. The wind "then came to Uio south-west, and we hauled further out, in case of a fa- vourable change. The month of August was ended, and we had sailed four miles. It had been as unpromising a month as it had been an anxious one. The mean temperature was lower than in the preceding August.; the snow remained longer on the ground, and fewer of the animals which, in these countries, migrate to the north, had appeared. The ice was not so much decayed as it had been last year at the same period, and there had been much less modoii among it. If the last days were the only good ones for our pnrpo.se, lliev had brought us four miles, (o the place I liad named IVIundy har- bour in \S29. And here we were prisiiners : yet the prospect was not absolulely bad, since we could have got out of it last year. as late as the 4ih of October, and such might be the case again ,v an earlier period. It was an unpleasing circumstance to know, that although we had no men absolutely sick, and there had been no scurvy, the health o( our crew in general was not what it had been ; as tlicy had also proved that they were incapable of bearing latigue, anil especially the travelling among ice. That it had been a dull month, on the whole, to us, I ncod scarcely say. I fear that this meagre journal bears but too evidtni marks of it, and on more occasions than the present. Hut what can the journalist do, more than the navigator 1' If this was a durance of few events, and those of little variety, even these liad no longer aught to mark a dilference among them, nolhini? lo attract attention or excite thought. The unmeness of every tliint; weighed on the spirit*, and the mind itself flagged under the \vaii( »>f excitemenl ; while oven such as there was, proved but a wean some iteration of what had often occurred before. ( In no occa- sion, even when all was new, had there been much to interest ; far less was there, now that we had so long been imprisoneil to alinoM one spot : and. with as little to see as to reflect on, ihei-e were nol materials from which any thought, keeping clear of the equal lia ^ards ol Inl.sity or nunafice, could have cinBtrurted an inlercslini; narrative. On the land there \va» nothing of pielurcMpie to admit of ig blocked and found lie bay ice wind Ihcn ;ase of a la- nd we had an anxious preceding d fewer of north, had I been lasl BS9 nio(ioi) pose, they undy har- J prospect i liisl year, le again at though we curvv, the I ; ns tlicy ligiio, and 19, I need 10 evidciii Hut whai liis was M these hail nolhiu.i; lo very tliMiu ■ I he waiii I n wean no occa ei-esl ; far Id iiliiioM B were noi equal ha nlereslinf,' c to (idinjl ocks were ithout beamy. Vegetation none: while, had thoro evofi ..xiMed'/h:? T T^'' ^^^'^- ^^'^ h.ng was suffocated and d d .r nl , T'^^ «' «*^*'"«''y. every l-art-si„king, nnilorrn .1 U,"'; \l ''^, *'"^'«^««' ^veLisorne! there was „o variety ; ib, 1,1 , , ,, fr '""^- ^" '''« «^^ greater part of the y'ear, arid i wrt 'X/'inJ'/'' "^" '^"''"^ '''e far and what knd. Harol y j | , I , ['""''''^'fferent what was water ^earth of beauty and ylio | ' ."'^al I T'''' \ ^^P'-« '»"« display were wanting, a„d wIi«m 1' , . '"^^"' ""^ P'cUiresque what was it but the ,L ,|h o ,h . 17'"'' ^" "'^ •""'«' P-'"''-'. were too li.nited to inter it C '„T '?"'"'''*' P««""a'ities J'austed at almost the llr I rUt 5^ UV'"'" '^'''' "^^'^ ^^- materials as these, sh„|| . „ ,"2;.... 'r' rf""'^ *» «"«'• amusement? It is wc.r.e .1, , , ,. '! ^ " ^"'' "' '"'«'■««* «"'' without straw." ' ""•'e'"nafion lo " make bricks warping lines, oblong 1 to'h7JI'ihr.'' '*"''''' ^^^ ""*" «f ""'• the ship was secured withi, ,w l,^" !n '"Ti ""f''"'" ' ''•'■'«'' ^^ich «l ice grounded betwee rrnC ''"I ''''^ '^''"'•^' «'"h a piece hand to which we might m r (" ,. L^f Vh"' "'" """'''• «' snow on the l>d, and the pa.mJ . .! ^^ J^"'^ '^'"'^ 'ain and fempt it till the mornXi ,; X ''''^^. '>'-t we could not '••om thehorlh ; and. in the ,y , ,i„ ZT"\u'" "'"'"' ^" '''^^ •t impassable. At night tl L , «ra J I ".I" ^^' "'•"" '""^ "'«d*' . INolhing could be Ineo. Sun lay" ;;.'''''' f""^- '" a compact mass , so that it wa^ 7/ J "" '^'"'"^ "»' ^"^ '^o^'" pie continued on the ^^iMuZu "uP ''"'' " ''"^ ''^' '■«^'- ^he snow, so that we could not 1 I 'tat / ,r,r"'''''t'^ '^ « '«" «' '"nd was quite covered on .1., ' T *'"' "^^ '" "'C strait. The ■y>d ebb together brought .1 re mt^Mtf T"'"'! ^'"'^ •'•« "''"'^ "•at the ship could not bo w« . " I ^"^ ^'"' '^"'^'' '^Pi^ity. obliged to take to one J th^ «„."'■ '" '"T' ''"^ ^« ^^^-^^ raniedonthe rocks, lien w/ ," " "T"' '^'' '^«'- "'' being M..e, and were lifted up two |L( w ,1 TT' ""'*''' ''«"^y P'-^s- ;^^^"s obliged to ren.ain lln" g V" ll t*; .Jr ^'f^^^ ' ^-"K The ,ce afterwards .eoeding; w. w -r 'n .r''^"''* P"'''^'""- >l.(..e under cover of a .luay („!... M 1 ''*' '" ^'*''P "P '« the There were showers JlZ V^ ' '"'«'' Pi«««« -ind. the ice in .he -.-n the ^>n<'WH.«.w..h vSiim«';j:h:s;id w:;;:::: "^'•1 k ,1 386 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY and the larger lakes were almost entirely frozen over, whereas the small ones had escaped. The harbour was covered with ice in the evening, and the thermometer fell to 22". Sept. 10. — It was even more completely sheeted with bay ice on Saturday ; and, in the ofHng, all was motionless. Nature did not permit Sunday to be other than a day of rest, even had we been inclined to transgress its laws. On IMonday it blew hard from the northward, and the ice was worse packed than ever, if that could be. After four hours of variable wind, it settled in the north on the next day, an(i in the evening blew a gale, with clear weather : the temperature, for the first time this month, being under 20'. The ice remained unaltered. Sept. 14. — The new ice was thick enough to skate on; but it was an amusement that we would gladly have dispensed with. Hyde Park is doubtless a great regale to those who can exhibit their attitudes to the fair crowds who Hock to see that which the sex is reputed to admire : and it is a regale, in a better sense, when the power of flying along the surface of the glassy ice, as the fishes glide through the water, and the birds float in the air, with a velo- city that requires no exertion, is of an occurrence so rare, and is confined to so short a season. In another way, is this altrost supernatural mode of motion delightful not less than useful, when the milk-maids of Holland can thus sail with their commodities to a market, the rivals, not of steam- boats and mail-coaches, but of the birds and the fishes. \ et more than delightful is i(, to see the ice holidays of Sweden and Russia, when^ll the world is in moliuu, as well by land as by water, yet where land and water are but one clement ; when all the chivalry of each sex, all thoughtless of any thing beyond the present moment, is absorbed in the minutes that pass, as if the whole world had no other occupation than to fly from all care and thought, to leave every thing behind them, even as the lightning flashes through the regions of space, heedless of all that exists beneath its buiniug career. But w hat had we to do with all this ? To us, the sight of ice was a plague, a vexation, a torment, an evil, a matter of despair. C^oiild we have skated the country over, it would nut have been an anuiMv ment; for (here was no object to gain, no tiociety to contend with in the race of fame, no one to admire us, no rivalry, no encounigc- ment, no object. We had exercise enough without this addition; and worst of all, the ice which bound us and our ship in fetters oi worse than iron, which surrounded us, obstructed us, itnprisoned us, annoyed us in every possible manner, and thus liauuted and vexed us for (en months of the year, had long l>ecome so odious to our sight, that I doubt if all the occupation which (he skating on it could have ttiiurd«(l us, would not ialhei- iiuve beeo u grieVunce liiati an enjoyment. thing (hat Is there now, that I The thougl hot July (Jj is " refreshi are the froz of a rising ( they are not they are a!s( to which th varieties. 1 (hat the ;r scrambieu ai whilo the eai I. the fearies tains, yea, e\ ice beautiful, Thus, too hailed the fal and pelt euci lossus t»f sno> 'ocrat, before and innocenc admiration ol all this, that i confounding t too, more and ns a motley pj gradations anc her summer i landscapes. There arc t experience of more than hall 'he gale is a g shines but to gl 'lie breath of t 'he dress, (he i chambers, our fixternal air get stream" in whi with a lamp of -V.-JE-Cift'S^aiv.- _ r, whereas ed with ice ith bay ice Nature did en had we blew hard lan ever, if u!ed in the , with clear inth, being on ; but it 1 with, can exhibit which the ense, when iS the (Ishc^ /ith a vclo- ^are, and is this alu'ost sefiil, when tnodities to hcs, but of I see the ice motion, as re but one Lless of any linutes that to lly fi'om even as the of all tliat I of ice was lir. (-'oil Id an amuse- n(end with jncoui'iige- s addition; [1 fetters ol imprisoned unled and ions toonr on it could cv ihrm an TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS 387 s^r'b:^Stt^;^rr^'-^i-e^^^^ Is there any one who loves the si^htnr'"^ T^ '*' ^^^ '^«'«'""' now, thatl always doubted thtTL '? ^"'^ '"^'^ ^ i imagine, The thought of iLmayTolbrsur.f''"''''"!:^ "^ '' «* P''«'ent hot July day; the sighl rfT Sw ssTa^^ ^•'°^«^'«"« - h .s » refreshing" I doubt not. This also? '•'? *''^ '^""^ ^««'her, are the frozen summits of the A nTntl P:*='"'"«f1"e, I admit, as of a rising or a setting sun The^e^' « dtll""'" .!'" "-'^y ^'"'^ tliey are not the less beautiful tha th^y areT ' ""' ''''"*''^^' ^"'^ they are also characteristic, and are nnrHn ' r^'"''' '""''^'^'^ ^^hile to which they give a new an/n' f'^""'''^''' »""«'•«' 'andscape varieties. l/the presenTdavs K '!; T''1^ ''' '^^^ ^^<^ 'o^'s that the ;r veller can 1 ^^' I "" " ""'^ '" P^«'«e of ice scrambleuacrols a glacier 'ihave'ILJ'tt'^' Switzerland, I hive' whilo rhc earth belot wL b illTn 12 *!?"" '"'*'" ^^""^ '^'«»«' I, the fearless and enterorisin^ U ' 'f ^^ ^'*'^«"^«d 'N »> even tain^ea, even wiZ l^^:;^^^^^^^^^^ f father of moun- .ce beautiful, regaling, accep"abfe ^ "'^ '" ^''''- '^^«" ^hus is haSs;eth;s:et S^: tToTr ■ ''- - - «" and pelt each ofher, and ^S a stahiP n b °'T '"''''"' '*""^halls lossus of snow, to melt away iCeDa?!i''nr "^""^^'^ ^''"' « «"- tocrat, before the sun. h it' not too^U . '" «?^^ '"«'"«'« »"- and innocence, and might nrm, eh '"^^ «"','''«'" f virgin purity admiration of snow? 1 1 L an ev^ hr'' ^^ ''"' '" P'«'«« «"d all this, that it deforms alMandscL??"'' '".^'«"«« "f^'^'n^t -nfoundmg distances, and wi"hZ\^^^^^^^^^^^^^ «" " "^-Ping," by too, more and worse than all el e Lj'J' '^ f ' f "^ ""^^ 'hat, "s a motley patchwork of blacK^^^^ gradations and combination of oil r'". P'"'" "'"'"•"« «^«et her summer mood, even Smidt.e 1,7 Tt ""''T P''"'^'"^««' '- landscapes. ''^ "•"'' deformed and harsh of '"ore than half the year, III Icctmer^^ ""."'■'' ""'""' ''"'• 'he gale is a gale of .now the 1? « fn f" '""'' '^ ^"«^' «'hen shines but to glitter on tr^now wh.cl^ '.T' ^''^" ^^-^ «"" 'ho breath of the month is snow it ' ^'' ^''? ""' '«"' ^hen "'c dress, the eyelashes. whLTnow f^ir"'' 'T' '" '^'^ »"»'••• 1 .-hambers. our beds, our dill Ihn^l """'^ "" ''"^ ''"'* <»'"• I external air get «cc;r to tT^ft .X'^' wf '^"^^''""'^ "'« I stream" in which wo must nuench n .1 r . ^'^ ''"' " '^^y»»'»' I with « lamp «f ml „,I.'"I! .l"^"'.'* "'"^ "»••»* '8 a ketde of ./naw P ■ ' ™^ ""'^ ^"^«« "* «« snow, and our ho.mei .^ MS SECOND VOYAGE OF DrSCO\ RKY olsnow : when snow was our decks, snow our awnings, snowoni observatoru's, snow onr lardei-s, snow oiiv sail; and, when all (ho odier uses of snow should be at last of no more avail, our cofliiis and onr graves were to fc ^ graves and coflins ol' snow. Is this not more than enough of snow than suflices for admira- tion i* is it not worse, that during ten of the months in a year, the ground is snow, and ice, and " slush;" that during the whole year its tormenting, chilling, odious presence is ever before t!io eye? Who more than I has admired the glaciers of the extreme north; who more has loved to contemplate the icebergs sailing from the Pole before the tide and the gale, floating along the ocean, through calm and through storm, like castles and towers and mountains, gorgeous in colouring, and magnilicen-t, if often capricious, in forin; and have I too not sought amid the crashing and the splitting and the thundering roarings of a sea of moving mountains, for the sub lime, and felt that nature could do no more? In all this there has been beauty, horror, danger, every thing that could excite; liicy would have excited a poet even to the verge of madness. Hut lo see, to have seen, ice and snow, to have felt snow and ice for ever, and nothing for ever but snow and ice, during all the months of a year, to have seen and felt but uninterrupted and unceasing ice and snow during all the months of four years, this it is that has made the sight of those most chilling and wearisome objects an evil wliirli is still one in recollection, as if the remembrance would never cense Sept K). — There was now no open water to be seen from (he hill. The general temperature w as 32", but it did not freeze in tlip «uu; a petty consolation, indeed. The record of the IHth was ndl better, and Saturday left us as it had found us. It is little to nolirc, but much where there was nothing else to remark, that a greal many grouse had been killed in the last week. In such a life as ours, even the capture of an artic mouse was an event : and if it is the custom, now, for navigators to tell every thing, to write withonl materials, what coidd we do hut follow the fashion, and conform to the established usages? Sept. 18 & 1 9.-r- Sunday exempts me f'om any record. Mon- day docs not furnish one, if it be not that we were employed in sawing the bay ice about the ship, in case the outer masses shonM set it in motion and annoy us. This it did in spite of our precan tions; since the heavy ice from the outside pressed upon it during (he following day, yet without doing us any harm. Sept. 21. —It blew fresh, with the wind (othe northward; in con sequence of which the ice drifted, but still remained stationary al the harbour's mouth, so (hat wo gained nolhiiig. On the next morning, (he old ice quided (he bay, but (he new remaineiM ilie sea outsid nable mal condition Sept. 2 of the out( might fa VI was (lie ut was all. additional piescnj, w peeled any do this, he Sept. 2fi make, was speculation left for conj day of cleai possibly be ing A gtti of things : b we could sc had ranged nothing; am condition, w I may in( expect any f ter as that \ was mot to h however, ws never be exti her, wi»hall Hut I belie under the us I believe, im selves into (I soberer judgn these should I driacal), is ( which we imn 'hing, we neii 'he evil, as wi hope, an(icipfl i'«'c(; relief, c( land, and a i had sulloro*!, ym-nmmsm^i br admir.'i- a year, the whole year e the eye',* Brae north; ig from the m, through mountains, IS, in form; slitting and or thesiib- s there lias xcite; tliev is. Hilt to :e for ever, lonths of a Ing (ce and I has made evil whrcii ever cease 1 from (he 'cezc in (he ill was no( G to nodre, laf a j,'rea( li a life as and if it is ite without ;onforni to d. IMoii- iipluyed ill ses should ir preeaii- I it during •d; in con- itioiiary al the iiexi itinoiK (he TO Tllli ARCTJC IIEGIONS, ^^^ bea outside was cuvlm'piI u/iil. i nable materials, ad, ,^ i' ''""r^ '''''''' ?{/''« '^'^^ 'ntermi- condition than ^ver. '"''' "'''''■ ^^ ^'^^re in a worse nmUt favour JT'^' "S; VdToT 1"'^'" ^^''^--^^'av was the usual hope, if winhe 1 L u A'^T'' '^ ^«- ^'-er^ was all. 0„ SuKday (h ro le o t p ^ ''"•' "'™'' ^"'^ '^at additional trouble, h.U lher^^s^^. ,"''!: T' ^"^" "«««'"« preseni, we wero •' ha, a„d Zi."7r^ ? ^t."'*^ '*• ^^^'^ l''^ pected anything bette ,« , low I" "'^^ ^^'"^»«w who ex- uo this, hewas disappointed "' ""' ^"*^ ^'"^ «"«"sh to speculations: there wn Shin j ^^J'''^''^^ ^"^ ^""« '» ''opes or left for conjecture. W , I atCl '''"'. ""'' ""'^""S ^^'^ «««' day of clear weather H. . ' certainty, on the following iog- A gale of wind oinl « iK, n ? '" """"''^'^^ ^'^^ ^OP" of Uiings : but wh cv ! wl tl^'S thf ''''%T'''' »'- ^^'e we could see nothing 1^1..,? i ' f. '"^ '^'''^^^^ ^"•^*' '''^»t liad ranged bctwee I (^ n ( '^^ '" '''-•"-•-^e'-, at night, nothing; and the eii.l of / In^i fonnT '"^'"r"^^^''^ «^ condition, with our d.om. '. i ^ "^ ^^'^^"y '" '''« »«'»« ln.ay indee;:;;^'' ^yt Tt^IedT"'"' Ic- every day. expect any further iiroirreNH m I x ' "^'^ 'mpossible to tc'as tij which'si;::!!;:?j :;:^-j-- -1 -;f't »^-n- was -not to have been |.xneii..d 'H „ . "'"ch better one, .1 . however, was the d.tan ', ' t s ed ilk ,rth. !' /'\P'-I-" never be extricated and (I .Vx.l i m \ ^ "'''' ""^ '*'"P ^^0"''» I-.-, with all that wa'lilllr ""'''' -"Pelled to abandon I believe, iu.agiue that T L i... ^ 'T'T'' •^^'•''"'^' "'• '•«^>'«'-. selves into the beli Ith, , ' ""'* '^'*" ^'■«"*' «'' '""^ «"'- ■soberer iudg„i,t'''V''''';^' '''^^y ''^'''pon, wile oui .hese shliuid he ho I ^ :;;:;;: • «- «- "'"•■«'"« (-i-^ 'Inacal), is that the ',''''''''> 'N'auing or the hypochon whichweL^Ji:,; ; '7 ''' r"'''^^°"'' ""^''- -' .lie fiii. as w ive r„ ;ir 7 r'"' ^v" '^.^''•'^•'"*^ "« ^'•-» I'ope, antieinato ill d , i ^ . '^"'■'*- ^ ''"' '^"' ^« '««'' «»d iM- ( . r, "ie cs 1 ' '. ""!' "'"" ^"l"^ipatea far other nros- land! a.;;[':;:;Z:: ^';":'"''':' 'f- l'"-- luour .>wn home .uImik- had sufllcrod, what 'HiiJr.i (?i wh.(i «(; had illeniptrd, what wi vvc Had leauul, what we had aciiievcd 300 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ng was out ol the common e ship, at peace. It was The uniformity of our journal give month, a tranquil appearance; as if n( order, and as if we had been all, lik ...^, „. ^ ., „„^ a very different thing, however, as our minds were concerned ; but what is a journal of hourly hopes and fears, of fears indeed more than hopes, to those who cannot feel them ; of regrets un- der which we could not, on examination, blame ourselves, and o( that anxiety which has no repose? Do men write, on such occasions, what they think and what they feel ? I should desire other proof of this than any which I have yet seen. The every-day work, and, above all, when that every-day work is to e^ert ourselves for the preservation of life, were there even not the heavier, the ever down-weighing duly oi preserving the lives of others, leaves little time for any reflections but those which the circumstances demand. I am much mistaken ifthe time of action is that also of reflection, of other thoughts at least than are imperious for the ends in view. We act, because we must, and, for the most part, I hope, rightly: a time comes, when we can think of what we did, and when, I suspect, we only imagine what we then thought: but it matters little: historians imagine what other men thought two thousand years since, and surely we have as much right to believe that what we think now was what we ourselves thought a year before. On the men, the effect was tangible, because it was simple. When we first moved from our late harbour, every man looked forward to his three years' wages, his return to England, and his meeting with friends and family; the depression of their spirits was now proportionate. They were not less in haste perhaps lo relate their adventures, most of them having kept journals; bu(, at present, it was better not to dwell on these matters, by any premature discussions: the time of resolving what was to be done, and of labouring to effet u, was to come ere long. Compared to the preceding Septembers in point of temperature the present stands tlius to that of 1829 and to that of IS.'IO, namely, having a mean of (J degrees less than the lirst, and of I degrees less tuan the last: ant' in the three, the extremes stand thus: IHHO I Ha I highest 40° plus, do. 43 pluH, , with the same effects: I so that we c were, as lal been genera and that hu ward, the h There was n every where Our situa was out of til not know of therefore loo we from the filled with iit there were h the already t much too sa hazard of inji sonry on dry The first c still more in health of the be; and the might seem i included. V progress ; wh plete in the I remaining sto strait, should should either (Greenland. 1 followed: the continued to « Journal of Octobt ' nrv. i.-T was litle dilfei- i TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 391 SO that we could have sailed from the position in which we now were, as fate as the fifth of October. But the present month had been generally a iraaquil one; there having been but one Rale and that hie; while, as the chief winds had been from the east- ward, the blockade of the land and (he sea proved complete Ihere was not an atom of water to be seen, and the ground was every where deep with snow. Our situation presented the usual mixture of good and evil It was out of the track of animals, there were no rivers, and we did not know of any hsh in the small lakes near us. If we could not therefore look for any supplies from those sources, neither could we from the natives, as the interval between them and us was illed with impassable ice. If our aspect was a southern one, vet there were high hills to the southward, which much shortened the already too short visits of the sun. The harbour was safe- much too safe indeed; since, for all motion, not less than for hazard of injury, we might as well have been walled in with ma- sonry on dry land. The lirst of the future objects was to economize in provisions, still more in fuel; and, of course, to take all possible care of the health of the men. Their spirits were to be kept up as might best be; and the topics of consolation could be found, whatever ihey might seem to the several different characters which our crew included. We were really on our return, and had made some progress; while there was no reason why that should not be com- plete in the following year. There was still before us the Fury's remaining store; and there were boats, to carry us into Davis's strait should we be obliged to abandon the ship; where we should either meet a whaler, or reach the Danish settlements in Greenland. II more was said than Ihere i-cpeat, the usual result followed: the hopeful did not hope more, and the despondent continued to despair. ^ ■1 , ': ;. CHAPTER XL VII. .lournal of October, 1831-Thc Journals of November and December, and the end of the Year, '^1 'i' ';^^"*' weuiher was foggy and calm on Saturday, and was liile ditlcient on /Sunday. Ou the following day the ice in the 3»-2 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY ofling was iri motion; and, on llie next, the vessel was cut into a better berth, in ten fathoms water, while the rudder was unshipped. It came to blow on the 5th, and the outward ice began to move and drift to the northward, showing some open water at daylight about a mile from the ship. We therefore cut channels in the new ice, that we might be prepared should it open more; but it became calm in the evening, and all remained as beiore. ,tP" I'^.i'^''^® '^*' ^'*y* ^* ^^^ "^^^^ '^'« lemperaturo was between 10' and ISO; the weather being variable, with a northerly breeze on Saturday, which caused a lane and a pool of water in the ofting ; but this was all that occurred to mark (he first week ol October, Oct. 9.— Sunday was only noticeable by the thermometer falling to 8", and by the disappearance of the little open water of the pre- ceding day. On Monday we began to unbend the sails and dismantle the ship. It would have been keeping up the farce of hope mucii too Idly to have delayed this longer. An observatory on shore was therelore commenced : we were at home for ihe remainder ol another year; such home as it was. The weather was little noticeable on the following days. The unrigging and stowing on shore went on, and a chain was passed twice round the vessel " a midships." It was our intention to sink the vessel or rather, as she must sink in no long time, in conse- qnence of her leaks, to provide the means of raising her again, should any vessel hereafter return to the place where she \\n< thus deposited, in safety equally from winds, waves, ice, and l'.squimaux. Of the wisdom of this provision for the future, for a lutiire as unlikely to occur as that ol a season of spring and roses in lioothia Felix, I have not much to say; but it is probably oiii nursery education, as it may be something else, which induces us to do all that we can in prevention of waste, or, like our grand- mothers, to preserve old rags, or what not, because their turn ol service will come round at some indefinite future, should we live on to that problematical period; which does not, I believe, very often arrive. Having edected this operalion, ihe aiichoi;, were carried on shore, and the boats turned bottom upwards on the ice. i'ait ol the housing was also set up, and the week ended with the thcrnio- iiieter at 10". A lane of clear water was again seen on the 15th lo llie northward, but this had now become a mailer of indilTcrence. ( Icar water or ice, all was now the same : it was very certain thai we had now settled ourselves lor the winter, In other days and other navigations such a sight was even more than hope : it was now long ftincf i{ had been biil (he water of Tiinlaliis : yrl even less than tl paralyzed al torment us. I'uptable cha There W£ !>eason, thouj lure went oi ^ i night, and v II part of the si '* ? with snow. nients served was work to despair? Oct. 21.— very low ten former years. temperature \ minus 23"; m liares and gr track of a glui cnpation was complete our( our work is m want of time. There was tear into rag« ihrough a Ion horn the great north, the win when we couh hnow. It conl with a tempers found full empi Oct. 30.— T meter fell to lakes, somewh inarkable that I*' plus. The summa (tl as little mon sjpking the ship under our piojt '•I the Fury's stc mHiiipt^nlsble lb e M' i U TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. •-.>■, paialyzed all hope, that we had not even the pains of anxietv to torment us. All was now indifferent : we were locked nnhvi! ruptable chains, and had ceased equally to hope or to feir '^ ^^ '" 1 here was variable weather on the 1 7th, but it was fine for the season, though attended by occasional falls of snow. The tern, era ..re went on gradually subsiding till it reached zero on ThSay" n.ght. and was once at minus 2- being the f.rst fall as yeUo this part of the scale. At this time there was a strong noithJrly wind w.th snow. The usual work of the ship and it! winter arrwe n.ents served to occupy these days, and it was fort.maTe hat £' «rk to do; what else on earth could have preserved ..l tm Oct. 21.— The maximum of this day was minus 2°: and it was n very low temperature for this month; compared 1o S oFthe former years. On the following the lowest was minus 4" The tempei-ature was but little higher this day • and on Y^nL .' r .i - .ninus 23»; making the whot fall 5o''^ £ tTr 'e'^day? " A "ew .a.es and g.-ouse had been seen, and some were shot.^ while the (rack of a glutton had been also observed. Part of or mvn Ic cupation was to continue the s.iivey of the rnesen .1. I ?" complete our chart, and to take th/alti,S; S^^^^^^^^ wantTtime"'"^""'^ '' ^^^" '' •"'"•"^' '* -« - '^^ '-st'^^ There was a storm on the 25(h, and it blew so violently as to when we could look out, we found that it had cleStS.'ills o :v^rati' «'"'^r«^-''i«ble during the remainde of the w ek w.th a temperature about zero ; and the reconstruction of a housin.; lound full employment for the people. "^ lelc. lell to /" minus. Two leindcer had been seen on the lakes, jomewhat unexpectedly ; and, on l>londay. it w.s e n..kablc that the temperature ranged between I'i" \r^:i Z ... I!^ntti:zs' iif ;r tu:r %r' '- '-^''^ ^"^. '^ ^P^ing the ship insprin^ad bec^l:::;:; as 'ZeK^r;^^- I'lSIOH!: n^nloble I or nur n,H-, had been iajulrd ; and ij.e (wo boats had 304 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY been placed in such a position as to admit of the construction of sledges under them. The temperature had ranged from 22" plus io 23° minus ; the mean had been 8" plus, and the extremes 29° plus and 23" minus. The thickness of the sea ice was found to be nineteen inches on the last day of the month; and, of that on the lake, twenty-two. On the health of the crew there is nothing new to observe. The first Cve days ofNovember exhibited no remarkable changes, and there was work enough for the men, in banking up the ship with snow, in building observatories, and in other arrangements similar to those formerly recorded. The highest range of the thermometer was plus 20°, and the lowest minus 2°. On the (Jth it fell to 16* minus in the evening, and to 17° at midnight. The weather, consequently, was cold. We had not yet been sufficiently trailed to the new winter. Of this training to temperatures which men undergo, I have spoken before ; and every season of our long experience in this country served to convince me still more of the truth of our con- clusions on this subject. It is not my business to explain (be fact or assign the reasons ; why do not the physiologists, who know every thing, tell us the cause, give us at least a wordy theory, if they caa do more ? I have seen the same under all temperatures, in the West Indies and the East ; in Sweden, and here in the extreme north of America, under the equinoctial line, and beyond the arctic circle. Yet I know not how to believe that those who remigrate from India, west or east, to England, endure the first winter better than the second, that they have been so thoroughly heated, as they imagine, by a few years' residence in the tropical regions, as to require a year's cooling to make them sensible of a lower tempe- rature. But words perform greater wonders than this : it has been once so said, they have heard it, and they believe, as men believe in ghosts and much more, because their nurses have so taught them. Nov. 7 to 12. — The week that followed proceeded in a very uni- form and uninteresting manner. The weath^ was, on the whole, mild, compared with Sunday, and though variable, was, for the most part, line. Yet the thermometer reached minus 1 9" on Mon- day. After this, it went on rising till the tenth, when it came up to plus 1 7° at midnight, ending on Saturday night at 7 ', alter having fallen to minus 2" at mid-day. The usual'labour, observations, fl|- ercise, and shooting, went on, and we were in need of them all. Nov. 13 to 19. — There is not a novelty to mark the days on- wards from Sunday till the following Saturday. The Iharactcr of the weath very bad. ( midnight thei high as plus manner, for which was n( Nov. 20 to and the prece floitherly brei having never minus. The served at this remarks. Every readi (litions have h the crews ofs have been des (0 Lord Aus'> peculiar seven climates, and wintered on si Dutch crew so For this lat -ccount to med It is true that tl been adopted i lime of Cook, were placed in our attentions ( for so long a pei Notwithstand the first real apj lecord of this v( after four years almost call one shows that it nei without exceplio That this was far the effect is d become me to saj myself, or the gt Ii'iust be seen, in one of the best kii icme«» ^'«« o^-^ remarks. " "^ °" '^'^ «"*'J«^< ' ««» boun^ to offer a few ditiorhVvTt^lK: r^l't'o?^^- ?^^rr ^^"^-' -P- the crews of shi.s have not merp?! K ''""'^^ '^'f "^•"' '^^^^ "'"'«" , have been destroyed bv it kT/f^ been rendered ineffective, but io Lord A»sonrvova!^e I?! i" "^^''^ '' T"'*^ ^"*«« ^« •'«f«'' I peculiar seventy i^tie crews of v"'''? ''"'• ^'^'^ '' ''^^ ''^S^d ^^'^h ^ climates, and not ol Tmen a se« hT'^'*'"^ ^^^ "^'•^^«''" ^nntered on shore; as " ZltTc ^k T""^ those who had Dutch crew so oftt 1 narrate?^ ' ^^ '^^ « P^'''''^"'^-- l^een adopted in both 2 '»'''"''' ' '''"'''' ""'^''^ ^^^^ unpossible, from the attention paid to the Sundays, and from the nature of the weather, they were couunanded to walk, for a certain number of hours, on the shore, or, if this was impracticable, on oui well-roofed and sheltered deck. Further than all this, and I may name it as the last precaution, their minds were never suffered to brood over evils or to sink inli. despair, as far as it was in our power (o prevent this: while I miu say, that on the whole, our efforts were highly successful. Vet li I stdl add, the restriction at first in the use of spirits, and at lengtli the final abandonment of this false and pernicious slinuilus, 1 Iiavo little doubt that I thus cut off one of the causes, which, if it may not absolutely generate scurvy, materially assists otiiers in the mo' duclion of (hat disease. 8uch is what I have thought il useful (o state on (iiis snbjecl . il they were not the true causes of our exemption, they arc all that now occur to me; but though I should have made any mistake m this uialtcr, I can still appeal to the result. Wc'were aimo-! entirely free IVoui (his disease for a very long period; we sudcrca but litdc, even at the worst ; and I brought back to England a cm a which, as it male, has nc i( braved, or Nov. 27t( liesh breeze, Monday i( U day. the If the freezing calm, the mei The thicknesi nine inches. With (he « sky being vei now well knc is sufficient d abundant exp while we kne possess respe( and cloudy oi our own dear covered us (w by knowing, a ceptions whici warm. The mean higher than th same month \t. either of them We had im| a layer of gra the heat below by experience. Our allowai was that of sal the use of spru which, howevf despondency se Very few ce quence of the others had pro( fhan we had i partridges. Dee. I.— Th< perature of 41" A( six on (he i liav( TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. j,^^ i. ..raved or .he ^."""v. my diu not Uiuer. A( six on (he morning of the 3d it blew a heavy g,^e from (1 le 3Ir. Kuri much more or llde, liav nophis or Ci over potted joyed in wr of him who may yet be, of Boothia I of the Fury dinners cook Happy indet Felix, and h reserved. Dec. 26 to days, but the could not be dence. The dull, and it it had not bei its thickness f in the lake. This montl but a change ( we experienci we had never lemperadire, the drift was ^ flour. The men w \icen ke|)t in < « complication The com par preceding year IN30 Ditlo. ISUI Ditto, which' was worse, Willi lid see any the valleys ; of the fol- I ascended »s surprised lisappeared een it since traordinary also raised ag intercsl- iH quarters eiiig on the herly gale, cold. On s calm and )wing hard and clear between "i" , the tem- 1 at night, while tijat he twcnty- itinucd till stween 21" I the cabin )eef which with some lich it was « secured, is now, in ic marker, Icrnity in htcst allc- things a% I for ever, 1' Often orl's con- 's are Ui»' I J TO TIIK AltCTIC HEGIONS. g.^g real discoverers), been known in ii^n. u • Herculaneum o • IWi me of C ' '^^"'^ ^^« ''^ve dug out of dishes of NasidiennsXVft"aL,f«"^P^'^ of Lucullus or the :^^=£ r,S ~ -"- ss over potted da „ ties' of {17 "^ '" '^'^f'^'^^' *'«^« -"^g^'^d joyed L writi„7bo"k ^ 'L';rrtr^^^^^^^ T' ''^^^ of him who was drowned i,Hl.n»„ ?: i ^^^P''*''''^ '*'"8«' o^" may yet be, sometZ i' ; ie"',., !," ^'''''^' !''»^ ^'"« of Boothia Felix may pre^.lv (he ,1 lo 'r'"'"'"'^ '^^'^^^ of the Fury, and tlui del v^r ow^'o^ ?'''■< '"'"^' '^'''"'^^^^^^ dinners cooked \n LomUm dZLT ^r'^"'"'" posterity the Happy indeed w"lUu h « l ^bn f '''f." '^^''"'^' '^'' ^'«"'-^h ? Fel.x.^nd happy the nioth^towli;'; '''^ ?" v'"'*'''*'^ "'' "'^"""'» reserved. "^ ""''"'' '"'''' discoveries shall be da^^rb^ti::^;;?;;^;;';;."^ m the next three could not be replaced, a, w r Sfo, m n ?!" T" "? ' ''"'' '''"^ donee. The remainder ' Tl . ' ' ^''^ """' '"'"'« ^'Tcn- dull, and it ended wilr '""""'/^'''^ equally uniform 'and it had not beenmor',''7;r''"'"' •'»:,''•= '" ">« ^«'"' ''^^ its thickness proved to o rVo^^^ ' K^ "f «" "" '"^ '^y- in the lake. "^ ^^"' ""^ six inches more • h31 Dilto. -f — 47 — ltd. 24 — a — 4< — ttH.ue <„,. , U 'I 4 V 1 2 U NEy = ?.' t. ti feUN ENE.'O. NEbE.O. Ne:4. NEbT5. 0. NNE.MO. NbE.'O. Total. f>l5 bourn. 12 <)o. wind \ 127 do. calm. Highe.st, lowest, and mean \ aj' —Mi 1,1. Irmiiemlure ) " ""^ Total force of the Wind . •25.43 1057 ori 744^31 days Mean force of tbe Wind. . • • 53.45 t FEBRUARY, 1831. 47 N".'144 4 NbWC) 3 NNW.I3!». NWbN.O. 10 1 N\V.205. NWbW.fl. 7 WNW.18 3 WbN.C. NWy, rllH 42 4 2 to: 39 SWy :2I2 \V62. WI.S. 4, VVSWf.3 SWbWo. SW.2I9 liWIiS. "SSW. M SbW: 10 t 1 2 a 30 7 SEy rIM .S:244. SbE~0. sse; ir> iSEbS 0. ~SE. 55. SEbE.' ESE. 7. Eb>i. 3 4 4 3 NEy. - U R H EbN" 0. NEbE 4 IV'EbE 0. im.H. KEbN:o. NNE. 10 Nbtfo 571 57S iioiirn Hinliest, loweit, ami mean ^ -f 9^ -49-33.46 12 do wind vblp ^lemprralure . . > ' • 82 do rain Total force of the Wind ... 1333 1 1 8 23 N.449. NbH 67 \v:ic6. wbs; 24 1734. ■SbET I 1 E. .19 Ebsr l>72 2H day* Mean force of the Wind «.« MARCH, 1831 N4I e I W^83. I I 3 S.T78. I n n NhW.O 4 WliS. 37 SbE. 3 EbN. 8 3 I) NNW.79. 2 5 WSWSfi I 3 SSE 20 5 ENB. 10 NWbN'.l.l SWbWO. I "SEbS."S. NEbEro. 7 9 NW.81, 8 I "SW lao. I 3 "SB 24 I 5 Ne:33. 2 NWbW.O 8WbS~0 SEbE n NlbEi 0. 2 WNWT7I. 1 "8SW"44 . 5 _ "ESE. 30. 3 "NNr7, Total 5.39 hnum. 33 do. wind\1>lr. 173 do calni. 744~3I dayi. U WbV.O. I 2 SbW. .10. 3 EliS.2 NbEfo Hintii'iit, lowett, and mean \ teiiiprrature I TotiiMorceoftbe Wipd . Mean force of tlie Wind -51-34.74 . MM NWy.-IM SWy. =m SEy. ,14? NBy - 41 53) «« 1 1 N.I8S. 35 NhW.33. WTioo. 49 WbSTo. 1 9 SVllfl ee K 102 SbE" 33. I EbN.t. 071 31 4< I 5^ 10 354 '-£ w iiw OJI 8 NH 3 14M t .NbWlO. Wb»:i6. t SbE 10 EliN I I 3 NNW.48I. I WIWll I "8SE:37 'ENK. 14 3S NWbW III I) SWbW. _ 3 SEbS 4 NBbE 0. AI'HIL, 1831. I 3^ NW.375. 43 SW 09 1 I HK 17 > diva I \8T0 Nhro Hlnhral. lowrit, and menu < leniurrninrp i Tulairorcroflbp Wind .tli'Kn Aver of the Wind ■t 3(1. '.•'1-044 1005 NW» -3* SWy ilr SEy 1 1H NEy -71 m TO THE ARCTIC HEorONS. 401 ij^ as N.449. NbW.49 6 7 u \V.IC5. WbTe, 2 4 "§734. SbE"o. n E. .to El)iv:(». 7=*- 12 WNW.300 NWbN.49. V/HW.30. SWbVV:i5. .2'^ SSE. 32. SlbT"!). -S- . 5 ENE.23. NEblTfl. MAY, 1S.1I, NW.I63. NWbW.as. 40 SVV. 88. 3 4 SE. ,')2. 3 5 Total. 059 liouM. 15 da. wind vble. '« do. calm. 744^31 davd. "swbs: 0. "slbETo NEbN: 0. 23 WnW.42 4 SSW. 4. — '-" ESE. fil. nne:ii4. 2 WbN:4. ShVV'O. n EhSTo. 2 NbE. 4. lemperalure . "l +36-16 -^16.02 Total forre of tbe Wind ! . jg^g Mpan force of the Wind . . . bJTw NWy SWy. SE>. NEy. :32« =13;-. = K =109 fLVI N. 122. « I W:23l. 7J S. I.W. ii 17. Jl'NE, 1831. 3 NbW4. WbS 0. 4 SbE. 8. 'feblf.'o. 28 NNW.6I. 34 WSW.64. I I SSE. 25 _ ENE.O NWbN.Sfi. 7 SWbW.3» 2 SEbS.'O n NEblTo. I fl NW.253. 1 3 2 ^W.387. J 9 SET 23. 7 >je:9. ... Total. M7 houn. 8 do. wind \ hip lis do. calm «0-.30 dayii. NWbW.n. 4 swb5:8. _ SEhJE. NEbN: 0. r. 2 4 wivwrifio. WbN:i3 '52. .25 ssw: 4 ESE~18 2 NNE~7; STavTo ■febS, 0. "SbE^n, "l^n;,tl.';r''«"''-""}+^2+H^.3..5« Total forcp of the Win.! . ,,,5 Mean force of th« Wind . . . isTn NWy.,2;« SWy. =283 SEy. -Ill NEy. = |» cj; NWy, = IM .0. SWy : m 3U. SEy. in 2 NBy. - 41 ■«. »w «8 N.I88 35 w:ioo. «g R 103. I I NbW33. WbS"0. I 9 ■Sbir32. I EbN.J. iVLY. 1831. .10 NFfW.19. n WSW.19 29 SSE: 65. I 5 ENE. W. NMfblf.l7 sWbW.o. SEbS. 0. NftbE. 0. 40 NW.124. 20 SW74. 3 8 SE.fll. 8s >JE, !»!». WO noiira. » do. wind vhli-, 46 do. calm. WT-SI davii NWbW.JD. swiS "SEbE" 4 NiEbN. 0. 19. WNW.I09 I "Sswri. - ' 3_ BSE. 20. 58 'NNEriBJ. n wbV;o. Shwro. 7 TBbisril. 2 3 NbTETiai. Hlithett, lowf It, and mpMn ) 1 .« . „ ,^t«mperature '""""'>"> i •4-50+33+37.M Total force of tbe Wind ■—. Mean force of the Wind . . jj^ NWt.=30S SWy. = «| SEy. =186 NEy. =395 en NWy J*I M SWy ilii- SEy ■J III n NEy 71 II rp'i-i H4 w:37i 57 W.»l. 58 8ril7. 67 «"l77. NbW.4 8 Wb8.4.3. 3 SblTa l5bS:o 48 ,7 NNW.ia7. NWfW:4« 3 3 2 W8W.100. SWFWllo. 13 « TISE. 34. -»EbS~0. 3 3 J ENl.81. NElETftJ AltOUST, l«lt 50 |> mv.137. mvfiw.7. 35 8W73. 30 "Sit. 38. 46 _Total. liR7 hottri. 14 do. winrt vble 43doralni «t II davii "SWbl" 'SEbBT It NirsNro. sr WVW.I4I 6 89W~7. I 8 B8E 07. I 7 ID WbNOS. I 3 Sbwrao IBhJo. u RMTo Hliheit, lowett, aiKl niaan ) _>.•.■ , .. . „««>mm.r«lnre * ™*" j +MfJ4+.i|iB, Total fnrrworihe Wind . £». Mean ftirre of the Wind (^jjj NWy.^MI SWy. SBy. 134 110 NBy. =in 409 SECOND VOYAGE OP DISCOVERY SEPTEMBER, IS31 *1 N. 4CR. 96 Wise. 40 "5782 93 - E 38. 32 NbW.lM WbS.O. "SbETo 4 EbN"l8. I 4 8 NNW.780 I 8 WS\V38, 8 SSET 8. 4 "ENE. 17. 4 i NWbN 80 SWbW.O. _ _ SEbS. 0. _ NEbE. 0. 24 NW.64. •9 SW53. 2 I ?1E. 26. I 4 NIT 33. NWbW 22 1 "SWbS. 2 SEb"!" J NEbN.O I 2 WNW.23. 1 9_ SSW. 35 1 4 ESE.~4« 24 NNE."64. wwro I 8 SbWei. 9 EbS. 19. 37 NbE. 241 SW,. _m SEy -101 ^101 Total. 661 hours. 25 do. wind vhle 34 do. calm. 72r=3n days. Hijtheat, lowest, and mean \ leraperature / Total force of the Wind NEy ^105 m 4 36.1 Mean force of the Wind 6-fe3.4 Ml OCTOBEH, IN3I. 1 4_4 N.526. 24 '-£ S 136 3 1 98 83 RbW'.U'i: NNW.306. NWiTnIo. WbSU. ^¥e"o. EbNro. I 4 wsw.as 28 SSE! 31. 3 ENE. 4. I) swiiW.o, I o_ SEbS. 21. 0_ NEbE n. 7 NW.15. 3 5 SW.70. 2 2 SET*. I JL NE.30 I) NWbW.fl SWbS.O, SEbE: NEhN 2 WNW.2 34 SSWr70. I 6_ ESE. 22 I 8 NNE. 60. WbN.O. 8 sbw; 'a, 0_ EhS. 0. n_ N'bE.'O Total. 6f>4 hours, 24 (lo. wind vhle 56 do. calm. TiTsi days HighesI, lowest, and mean I -f 91). 534. 832 temperatiirr . . I Total force of the Wind NWy ;3M SWy.-ll5 SEy. -152 NEy 65 C61 Mean force of the Wind 2044 firs NOVEMBEK, 1831 1 20 3 3 3 6 4 3 3 NW NT89. NbW.IOH. NI?^W.14*. NWhN.O. NW.S3. NWbW.O WNM'.ati . WijN".0. 93 4 8 1 7 2 .SWv Vir.ta. AVbSlO. WS\V.9. SWbW.O. SW.I3. swhs. n. SSW. 73. SbWTs. amy 75 ■rr4 18 66 Sber42 SSE. 123. 2 SEbS. 2 8 1 n SBTHO. SEbE. 0. 4 ESE. 4 2 EbS. 2 •SEy. 13 IT 39. U 2 EbiTo. KNB.e NEbB.n 2 NE.4. NEb'N.O. TvNe. 0. 11 Nl.K"ll NEy 1 Totikl. 564 houn. 15 do. wind V 141 do. calm HiRhcst , lowest, and mean 1.1. ifinprrHliire ""^ Total fon-e of the Wind -f 20-42- 1 23 1449 7in~30 days. Mea n force of the Wind • 48.3 -•W, w 'M DKCKMBEH, IDJI. "^428. 1 4 W:i4 so r4s 64 161 15 1 11 9 II 7 1 n NhWm. MNWim MWhNo NW3»7. NWIiW n 11 7 11 Wb8.9. WSW 1 8>VbW« BW 2(1 SWbS.O 13 n .1 n SbB BSli' 14 'RBbS HB. 61 SEbE. 1) 7 EbN • ■fcNKn NEbE Wr7 NEbNO WNW.O 9 aiW~o 4 fesr 4 WhNO SbW EbS • n mK9 Tola! U6 hoiiri 30 do wind I53du. ralni Htfibest, Inweil, and ineiin ,1.1. leinperafiiro '"" TolalTorreoriheWlnd } -2-42- NWy V\ SWv. - -fl BEy ; m NKy. -13 m 7U=V da* 5 .Mean force uftlie Wind 73 4r, Jan. 1 T for the pu A very br splitting in mometer [( s-ising agai was a briJIi star. I lef tial thermo Jan. 6 to calm, it wi resumed oi aurora was TJie invalid Jan. 9 to t'anquil, an( '2» On tl, fall of snow another wee! whenever it grave for oui Jan. 15 to count of the was selected tfirmenl took fl«ys were in 'liree last of (I meter from 2( Jan. 21 („ "'b'lit, and con lowing. ()„ 'I «ver in the o\ "'is day, but || •'" 'he noon < file last two (h tpr endoti on H ro THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 403 SWy -101 SEy ,101 NEy =105 ti«l NWy-JM 8Wy,-ll5 SEy. -IS2 NEy «3 Ml NWy .S3', SWy M SEy. 34S NEy. - V 'M I NWy v\ 1 •Wy. "'" 1 SEy '"*' 1 NKy. .Id 1 AM 1 ^•"'•'o..r„„,M,rj„„..„,v.Febn.nry,an.l March, 183.. forte iu.VL7l'S?„,':';^,i';;\- P our «,i„ing ,oo.s A very brilliant motoor, «."£ ' ^f 2"'''''"'"' ^"'^ «"'' ^^^'-^^^ splitting nto sDflrlia ,.n4'n ** ^ '"® moon, was sepn fin,ii momei fell r»«^„rr, ™;:;r''"f ''-r'-"'^ "iCxiie *:' ! ™i»« "gain h„i ,„ ;;l" ?;'">'• ""'' '» «• on Ihe following dal. » ai-. I ,cpc.-,(cd lire nnnn Z^ ™lo,ir passmg Ihrough Ihe north caim/it was„o;;':,;'':;;:r.';^---"«^ to 45., hut, ..m, resumed our winfo^^M, Lnlor.r''^" ''^" "'«'. -« ^ad nTw -.•ora was again noon i s ^ Tr^Ts '", ''"^"''J^'^'- ^ho Ti.e invalid Dixon wan c^onHide cd ' n. n"\^^^ P^'''^ «« "'^"al- Jan. 9 (0 11. __ Till ,1,0 £,h. ^11^ ''"'^"•'"S ^vorse. 'f nqud, and often c«lu, Tl p . . ''"''^'"' ^'^^ ^^'•i«'>'e, but '2°. On tho tonlh ;i'„ ' '"PT''"''«'«««'''-0'n45-asfar^^^^ fall of snow, wi \/l ;V'''"''^'»^« Dixon died. A £'„ another week to « chic "'^o tit n""r'7?'^'^^^' ^'-S whenever it wan |.o«HibI.. on M . .'^''*' ''^^ heen employed »ravc for our patient ' "" ""' '"""^' ''"^^ also preparKe cout" ol the 'l.a7i?erTr;Tral^^^ '"''''"' *'" '■""«^«' - «- was selected for (bin Sunday ()„ LTr''''''" ^'^ *''« «"'>J«c' terment took pbuo will, ,», „,, "/''V"''".'^'"« "'"'"'"K the in- ;^'«y« were mibi, „„., J ^'7 ir'^"?^- ''''^ »-o "oxt tlireo last of ilu, „,„.k ,bfl ZI.! '"""*'' ^^"' on. On the meter from 2H' to ifif' " ^"''^'"' *«« variable, and the thermo- nigH amJ oonJIIIu;:/ ViZlir!"''*':/" 'll"^ ''"'^^h on Saturday 'owing. (),. Tuenday^ f;tt IT^ "" /'"' '^'^ ""^ ^'- ^ '' ever in the evening I, ..f, ' """"' *^"* ^^s as violent as 'I the noon of tli« folIoZ! 1 " T ^" '"' ""^ '"^ "o' «"»>sido Ihe la.t two days o( ,b« ul?..:'!^'.^'^'^" " w"" clear and ,alm. ■^'t- ended on Naiu.d.y nigi,,;, 3^'," •""^^'ate. nod the (|„.,,„,„„e. M* 401 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Jan. 29 to 31. ^On the Sunday and Monday iho wind was north, and it was very cold, with a thermometer at 30". It varied httle on the following; and the month ended with a tcmperaiure of 26". Little or nothing could be done out of the ship on most of the past days, and or.r exercise was equally restricted to the deck. During three weeks of (his month there was windy or stormy weather, which made the cold severe, though the mean tempera- ture was only two degrees lower than it had been in the preceding January. That mean is 27" minus, and the highest and lowest are minus 8" and minus 47". We tried to find some consolation in anticipating that BafTm's bay would be cleared of ice by these north winds. The weather interfered so nmch with our observations, that they amount to nothing ; besides which we had not a nautical almanac for the present year. Of the aurora which is noted above, I may remark that it affected the magnetic needle U, an un- usual degree. Our medical report now begins to be very different from what it had hitherto been. All were much enfeebled ; and there was a good deal of ailment without any marked diseases. An old wound in my own side had broken out, with bleeding; and 1 knew too well that this was one of the indications of scurvy. That all were in a very anxious state, needs not be said : and he on whom all the responsibility fell was not least the victim of anxiety. But men must be thus situated before they can appreciate the feelings of any of us. Feb. 1 to 4. — The month began with a furious storm, which continued for two days, and subsided on the third; t!ie thermome- ter rising from 24" to 18". l.ie ice was cut through, and ils thickness found to be five feet and upwards. The lake, at the same depth, was frozen to the bottom. We were sufficiently pri- soners by the hopeless slate of the ship; but it seemed destined that she should be really our prison, as the stormy and cold wea- ther rendered it seldom possible to show ourselves beyond the roof or deck. It is not wonderful if we were dull. Feb. 5 to II. — A strong breeze, from the endless northward, on Sunday, hecante a gale, lasting during the two next days and not breaking till Wednesday; when, at night, it at length fell calm, and the thcrmometeler sank to 35". Hence on till Saturday, il was sufficiently line to allow the men to work at the tunnel, and (he sportsmen to take their walks, (hough without any success. Feb 12 to 18. — Hut a gale sprung up once more in the nigli(, and blew all Sunday, so as again to keep us prisoners. It abated on iVIonday, and (he people could continue (o work till Thursday >(iiT biH'zu oij Friday oiice nil ing. ptii .saa TO Tire ARCTIC UliGlONH. 405 \voik foi- ihe rest of the week; aud, on Saturday night, alter seven tiays ot variable weatlier, the temperature was 41". Feb. 19tV 20.— Sunday was stormy and cold, and Monday was much worse. In the morning, a glutton came on board and began to devour t.ie dogs meat. It was an inhospitable reception to kill (he poor starving wretch, but it was the first specimen of this creature which we had been able to obtain. Are the life and happmess of an animal to be compared with our own pleasure in seemg.ts skm stuffed with straw and exhibited in a glass case? Atter the ^Ist the men were able to work outside till the end of I'riday; but Saturday was once more stormy, and we we were all fZi?sTto 'J'^^^ '""'''''^ temperatures during the week had varied . r*'''".*? ^r 2«>--The three first days following were uncertain, but not bad; and on the two working days some out of door work was done. On Saturday the ice was measured, and found rather more than six feet thick. It had increased sixteen inches m this month, which ended with the thermometer at 38°. This last month was severe. If the thermometer did not range so much as during the same one in preceding years, the tempera^ ture was more unilormly low, while the fre(|U(-iit storms rendered It also bitterly felt. The mean was -Tl- minus, and the extremes minus 12" and minus 4r». The thickness of the ice round the ship was such as to prevent all hopes of her liberation, even though we should continue with ler which was inipossible, from the slate of our provisions and tha ol the health o the crew. The seaman. Buck, who had unex- pectedly sudered the recurrence of his epilepsy with an unusual degree of violence, had become blind. The carpenter had nearly finished the sledges for the boats and was about to make some more for carrying the provisions. ' It is a bnel summary,lor this month : and others must try to imagine v.'liat we Icit, and what they can never see. ^larch I to lO.-The 1st day of Vlarchwas mild, though with no great change ol temperature. Thus it continued till Saturday when the ice on the lake was found to be seven feel thick; and the thermometer at \2'. The Ith, oth, and f5(h were little differ- ent, and the men couhl work outside on the two last, though the thermometer fell to -IS-. Some work was done also on the next two days; but, on the JKh there was a Ircsh breeze, subsiding again on .Saturday, when we ended not vry bad week of variable weather. A hare and some ptarmigans were shot March II (,» 17.^ The men, walking alter church, saw (he . , :, " ,,' '• ^■'■'i' 'i«. Hence tothel6lh we wereall i„.n,., he Satl^pf ""' north-westerly winds, and it was not fine agZt , March l1 Zlt s'' ;'" *'--«-«'-• «t 20- during the n.^ ' iwarch 1» to 24.~SuDday was an indifferent day, bnt did n„t prevent the usual walk after church, when the tracb o a white bear we.;e seen, amongst other animals. The rough wealherand our conhnemeot returned on Monday, and lasted tir.Sa u X Avluch became a f.ne day before it was finished. Noll, ng of course, could be done outside. The thermometer diiZall th? t.me ranged between 31' and 37", ending at 35"; and the takit of a fox was the only event of a most ti.esome we;k. ^ rate tin Monf f,""'^ ^''^ tf '^ "" '^""^^y- ""^^ <"'' ""^ modc- late ,11 Monday afternoon. The whale boai, which could now din IT' ^'«!,^''«''? "P- The weather was becoming gT dually m.lder, and, on the twenty-eighth, the thermometer^asT nuuus, wuh a httle snow. The men wire not p eventedXm at "nkhfw.?w'5«r''r''' "••^*^^'^^,^«d«y' "'«"ffl' tl«e thermometer atrnglitwasat 16^ There was abundant employment now in prepanng skm bags for bedding, in working at the sledResand in oUier matters intended for travelling. The sea ico w^s Zt breet^^"rti^..e'/ f"'"^ \1^''^ "^^V''« «pot, Ic^a^rn" fnnn7i I "'"'Pf ^'^le to work Otherwise, and it was month llV'" *''''J'''^' ''^^'"^ «>'«"« «" increasing in S month, and haymg gamed nine inches on the former. The temne rature on the last night of March was 20\ ^ In this month, the average temperature of the first half was louer ban .t had yet been in the same on the former yem h s 1^! was42» under zero It beca.ne gradually milder towardsUeenJ so that the mean of the whole was nearly the same, being mi n^ R„ril'rr' ""''• '''S''^«^ ^^--^ •"'""« 4:- and minus 4^ . But, hkc lebruary, it was a very cold month to the IbelinJs in consequence of the frequent winds; while it is cc .inly 1 »' true, that ou,- compa.ative weakness, and the altera ion in ou diet, made us feel it mo.e seve.ely ""e.auon in out ine wo.k on the sledges; but we had been busy on boa.d in arranging and concent.ating our seve.al travelling neocssZs.^ n.l.on, and tool^ we had fuel to car.y, had it ovn. been but to fc.r'.T. ['' •''•'"■*'"«' ''«-^- in^^'uments and all le tht^ - .vMB^u ,u u.ii pcsonai accommodations. In our was still 1 which the no one w prudent c to be, to I ingly don The ma of little V and amor observatio by demons rocks, not as to prodi presence c so delicate true resuli There h the hills w could not t almost noi AI I3U "^7796, S «4 i F.». 33 NbW.ia*, ■Vvb?. 0. SbE.o. Ebiv; 0. u N.3i. « 12 S. M. 90 a NbW. M. "Wbl.0. m>eT •. "TKjr. 0. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^ prudent conduct as it concerned' this stafe^of things, nJJie^el InslyaoT''' ^''' "'^'^ '' ^"" «"'^-"-' -<» 'his Z TccoTd of mtrvTp'7^''T''*'"' ^'*^ proceeded ; but are likely to be observations of d; M^r i ru'"'^ '^^'^ ^'■'^'"•^"y ^'•«^"' 'he roct>, noi less ,ba„ (he basallic ones, or, the magnetic needle si rre°eronro:tt'r'''n"''' "' "^"^^ -hicK oUnr "ot'.he £SpoSr;:r"'x;rr£Toi^ Zost'n'o^inr"" '"""'™- ^'"^ '"""^^ '" «'™° '■•" K ABiTRACT OF THE METEOROLOGICAL JOUBNAL. 130 s W.V3. STux 1 JANUARY, 1832. 33 NbW.lis. ^bff. 0. SbE.o. Eblv;o. 2 1 .5 NNW."iso9. WSW. 0. 30 "SSE.'ia?. " ENE. 0. NWbfTi 6. SWbW. 0. « " SEbS. 0. NEbE7o. Total. 614 hours. 30 do. wind vbk'. 100 do. calm. 7<<=31 d«y«. 17 "n»v. m. 13 SW.M. 11 SE. 73. * NE.S. NWbW, 0. SWbsTo. » _ SEbE. 3. NEbN.O. 48 _ "ssw.aia. E4E. 0. 4 NNE. 14. HiislicBt, lowest, and uisiin \ lemiwratiire . . j — Total force of the Wind . Mean force of the Wind . "Wb>fro.' ^0 SbWTo. EbS. 0. NbE. 0. : •8-47- ST.M 9tit NW,.-^40i) SWy. ^ n ®Ky. _ 131 NEy.^ la «I4 FEBRUARY, 1832. '• ' ■ f u N.M. « w:io. 36 S. M. ao fr«i, - " . < I » ao NbVV. 4«. ffmV.S3«8. "NWbNTo. NW:77. - ". ,) 4 Wb». 0. "wswTo sVvbWro. sW. 16. ^" J2' 40 SbE. (I. »SE. 18. SEIS. 0. sTTes. _0 ,, ESN. 0. ENE. 4. "ReBeTo, rfETs. Total. MM hnnn, 13 an. wind rfaic. 70 do. calm. NffbWTo. "SWb", 0. sfch'STo. "STOTo. WNW.o. -^bST-u. — ',_ ssw. aj. sbWTo. 3 ESE. .1. E'liS. 0. 4 ff^E. 0. NbE. 8, tMl^waaya, MlgliBst, lowest, and mean ) , trmiwraluro , } — IS— 44'|— m,m I otal force of the Wind , ' , .'mi Mean force of the Wind . . , ^^ NWy.=4H ' ' ^^1 SEy. ^ »a i^Ky- = J» ^^^^^^^H 114 .; ^^1 '^^^^1 'f'^^M iiJm 4(Hi SECOND VOYAGE OF UISGOVEUY 7 vTij. ■li S. 44. .17 t. 43. MAHgH, 1832. NbW. 0. "WbS. 0. a "sbi:. 0. 'IMS. 0. 37 I NNW.lasj. WSW. 0. 33 _ u NH bN, 0. u SWb\V7u. fillbs. 0. nKEI; . 0. Toui. 588 hours. •^3 ilo. wind vblc. 133 do. ralni, 744-31 days. 34 N\V. 59. 3 SW. 3. 3J SF.:43. _n NE. 13. NHbWTo. _ SWbS. u. _ SEbETo. _ "NEbN. 0. 1 WNV\\'i. _ 21 SSW. 7(,. "ESE. !i. 1_ NNE~). MbN. 0. SbVv;o. EbS. 0. _o. NbE. 0. HiKlicst.lottpst, and mean (_.- .^ ,, t(?liiperatiirf> . . ( ••— lej— j Toial force of ilic Wind . . . jj,,,, -31. .,7 N«y. =.||,] SWy. ^ ,•„, SEy. ^ ai NEy. = 49 i*lean force of Die Wind . 7.1.84 CHAPTER XLIA. April, 1832— Coiuineiice the operation of carrviiie forward R,.,<.. wi i visions, with the view of abandoning the Shii^Mrv p *• ' ^''^S^«' a"** «''" work-The Ship is abandoned. ^ Ship-May-Cont.iu.ation of the same April I to 7. - It blew so hard that the men were imprisoned alter dtvme service. On Monday it was more moderate, and "he for? fnT''. ""P^"'* '" ''""'"S round the Krusenstern, prepara- tory to hauhng her up The third, fourth, and fifth became gradualy milder; thought the thermometer did not rise abo^e mmus 14-, and sank to 30- at night; but on Friday it was agan verycold On Saturday the thermometer rose ou a suddeT o plus r ; not having passed zero before, for 136 davs. I do not .ri\ n ''^ *'!"'^'.' ""^'^ *^«''*«'«'y' ia \,ciit on. On the 18th, the cold TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,,,, ^^^tZ'Zt^^^^^^ the next day, •J'ey were found to answer a S ""f S^' '''^°'''' lake, where ready to start on the XwiL bit ^^ ^^^ '''^''''^- ^'« ^^-^e railing thick, wi.h a tern^e of S*'' ^'"''"''^ ^^ '^' «««w were therefore obliged to end rb! T "'""'' ^'^'^ «' "oo«. and »>ometer at minus 1 8% when o^ Z "' ^5 ^''"'' ^'^^^ '^' ^h^'- plus 30". ' ^" ''" ''^'^ same day in last year it was 'norning. and never rose beyonr^-n?" ^f «' '"'"»« 30^'" the present object was to proceed to 1 Z ! ?"'' ""P'^''^ '^^' «"'• provisions and the boa^and t It n i ° *^"'f '" ^''^ « "'o^l^ of of advancing more ca i;l t^^/^/^^'^ '''^^^^^^ vessel had long ceased to be aZZ e u "^^n^onment of the now was to proceed to iLy bea ''rlVT^'""' T^ '^' ^''j^^t possession of the boats there failLV^^ *''" '"PP''''^' ^"^ 'oget v'hich h d already been Varied LZ' '"'f '"^ ''^^ "^^''^^^ »>««^ "'ilea from the ship- after wbrh, ' T'"^''"" '«^' ^^out foui' «tore of provision? wh h^ts Two T ^7 '? ^''^ "'^^'^ »>"^^ «»d were then divided euual v «nH I ™'''f '^"''''^^''- ^he weights difficulty, through iSeTtTb^r'"^'^ ^'^^ ^^««^ ^«»'«"'-'«J carry on but one at a ti ne ieturnl? "T V'"^'^ ^^''^'^^ *« consequence of which we Sid n^*^^ ''' ^^^ ""^^^^ alternately; in hours' work. uZn be J' ."1,^"" T' '^"" ^ '"''«' "f^^^ "ve we were obliged to haU an3 hl^ '" ^u'^' ^"'''' ^'''^' «"o^-. '^at with c«nvas, and by means of thp d "'^ ^'t /'^^«« ^^ ^^^vered apparatus, the wboi pa ' of ?.. r*'"'"" ^'^'^ ""'^ ""'' «««l« readers; who have not lived in lands hkebf '"''' '' P°^"*''"'««« *" 'hos^ thirty may catch the eye wi h'n. ml '".r''*'^"' '^'^^ "'""her -^ty degrees under th Jfrel „rpo?„f "?» ^^^^^«^«••« f««» 'hat it is occasion, was forty-seven decrees mH ^J''f '^^P'^S ^^om, on this continue to sleep, how can mon 1 ■ ""l * P"'"'" "«^ did we ;^ what I have ti'dre" iro„I'" '" ' '^™P«''^'"'-« ? This bad success, I fear, s nee h. hi," '*^7,^'' «««««io«s, yet with very -oheat,orc.mt;rretef;Sn^ ■i>.ni;an-inl„ra,td|ili,si„|„gjsis "'■■" 'no.ci musi leave rnl ?l.-W..,„.„,,e,W »„.,„,r,e, „„„„, „,„, „,„ ^^,^„„_ ^^^,_ I' < ;> ! 410 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY through the same kind of ice, and, after four hours, reached the sea-sl,ore, wliere we found a terrace of ice formed by the spring tides, so as to produce a level way within the hummocks on each side. Here the travelling was comparatively easy, and, by six, we were about seven miles from North point, where we left the boat and returned to our quarters of the preceding night. April 25.— We began our march early, this day, with the se- cond boat, and with the provision sledge, alternately, in spite of a very annoying wind, with snow-drift; reaching the advanced boat ol yeslerday, and (hen carrying the whole a little way further, lill eight, when we were obliged to house ourselves as on the first day o» this journey. Our meat was so hard frozen that we were obliged to cut It with a saw, and could only afford to thaw it by putting it into our warm cocoa : we could not spare fuel for both purposes A strong gale with a snow drift nearly covered our hut in a short time, and we had the greater mortification of finding ourselves ob- structed by a ridge of rocks jutting into the sea, on which the ice had accumulated to the height of fifty feet. Men have smiled at the narratives of eating in "old Homer," and critics have defended him. " Dormitavit" it may be, on many things, but on this subject at least, he never slept; yet the "good man need not have been very anxious about the dinners and sup- pers of Ins heroes, since they were never in want of a cow or a goat, to carve with their swords, and broil on their embers as they best might. If some of us have been wearied of these suppers, and much more wearied when we were least hungry, there are not many, lull or fasting, who have not been interested in the dinners or breakfasts in Gil Bias or Don Quixote, possibly too in the eatings 01 Jscott who, like his predecessors, knew full well how deeply this prime object of human nalu.e interests all who belong to humanity, as to the whole animal race. Mailers of (his kind were to us, however, far from being things ol amusement or romance; they were of much too serious moment lor a poetical or a jesting narrative ; we might have had suppers to cook, or breakfasts to eat ; but (here was little inclination for a wantonness of record on things of bitter necessity, or to tell tales ot a hungry stomach and short commons for the entertainment of readers. The scanty allowances of yesterday or to-day, the equal prospect ol as scanty an allowance to-morrow, formed no matter lor aught but serious thoughts, and even anxious care ; it was not a question aione whether we should attain our object and execute our plans, but whether we should live or die. It is said that there IS no jesting with a hungry stomach : there was assuredly none in our I^ASP. on tine #l«>/-oci#\n rt«J „ »^M« ' 1 1 -_- X _ 1^ J piSy'iOiiS s::ii sUOscqUuni OliCa. a we should not merely have failed in our endeavours, but we might April 26. but it gave j we attempted difficult that i hours. Heac (he shore, th( lis to go roun gain in direct advanced two fape, which, I over such ice Nothing the ^^^ attempt to fine VVith great lali we thus at last enough to ass within an islam 'September of 1 I'ur rest. We could nc ^another gale; £ V" securing the i behind us, and < '•reached the hut 1 30lb, having co at the former ph The total result «nd ten miles, i ft'liile it would b( ••efore every thii «'iich was destir 'e direct one wj ' deem it iinne ''" the past detail Tl.« « s«orm ; we alteuipted to make wayTve, hi « ' . ^" "'^^Tlh, early -fficult that we did not gain more h^r ""tV^"' ''^^^ ^«« «« hours, teaching howefe " a Jas th. p'"'' f''"^ ^''^' '" ^^« 'he shore, the way became como^l'J ! '''' ?' ''^ ^'''^^ skirted "s.to go round every poTnt ofTnT and^ '''^' 't'"^^ '* •=«'"P«"«d fc'a.n m direct distance\erv small Th 'T^ ^'^' ''""^'"^^ '^^ we thus at last passed th,^ehms on h T 'f ""'^ «"« «^ « ti'^e. «"ough to assist us, and reacheS iT. '' "f*-^ «'«« ^ozen snow w"hi„ an island near the cane -bp "'''^ ^" ^"^^ '" >'i«w, reached the huts that ZZa ?."''f ""f-^d with little hazard. We \ . 30 ^^^ ""«d, w.th the thermometer between 2' and 'J;; I »V* ■ il 4Ii SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY We were employed in preparing provisions for the advance ; ami the salt meat and other stores which we could not carry were got out in readiness to be deposited in the Krusenstern on shore, as a last resource in case of our return. This and other work occupied the following day : when, although the thermometer was plus 2(}* in the day, it fell to zero at night. May 3. — Two sledges were taken to the sea ice, four miles ofl' the men returning at seven o'clock. On the 4th we commenced our second journey : the party consisting of myself and Commander Ross, with ten men, being the whole of our effective crew, dra"^ ging one heavy-loaded sledge. After finding that which had been deposited yesterday, we had good ice for five miles, and thus car- ried on the two sledges, until one was broken in attempting to pass some hummocks in our way ; arriving at the first of our stations in the night, with one of them only. May 5.— All was found safe from the expected intrusions of the glutton : and after eight hours' rest, tho men went back with (he broken sledge for repair, and to bring on the two others which were yet to come up. The day was spent in this alternating labour. and after twelve hours, we had brought one sledge, by midnight to a distance of eighteen miles from the ship. May 0.— The second was brought up on the following day, ami the broken one repaired ; when, the loads being equalized, we set out for the next station, which wc did not reach till eight at nighi. in consequence of a fall of snow which rendered the way iiiiirh worse than before. Then unloading the sledges, wc returned \o our last night's quarters, alter a journey of fo'uteen milea. Thi ther-mometer was at zero. May 7.— We set out with the remaining provisions and bcddiuH and reached the second station of eighteen miles, at throe in (he afternoon; haying succeeded at last in bringing hither two boah and five weeks' provisions, besides a present supply for ton days more. Our labour was much loo serious and anxious to allow "o( anyjesting; yet we could not help feeling that our travelling resem bled that of the person in the algebraic equation, whose business il IS to convey eggs to a point by one at a time. Here, ropairinK the sledges that had sull'ered, we advanced another step of seven miles with two of them, and of five more with a single one; having thus made a day's journey of sixteen miles, and sleeping again a( our hut. ' May 8.— A severe fall of snow imprisoned us all day; but if il gave us rest, il alarmed us for (he slate of our road. The night lliernut meter rose to plus IK". The following was much worse, willi am easterly gale ; yt'l the ihouuliiless .sailors sjopt and cnjovcd iheu! selves as if there was nothing else lor ihem i(» (l(», ' leaving ihr was at zero. Much ofl lers and the and on a ch contrived, a sailor, as it has a chara( that whioh tl it is to any p( display itself respects it is detail, but tli water in doul or the riggin shore in a st their orders, no landsman sound as if Our own mei (o have acqi they .sometin ought not to feeling for ev new to be pro it might have business," no be denied ; y which he do€ May 1 1 .— of the snow h cumbered will of our posilio rclurned to ou day nearly suh May la.— y the extra week drift snow, an <»nce more to i had been left I rite next day )ur miles oil', commenced Commander crew, drag- ch bad been nd thus car- pting (0 pass ir stations in jsions ol" tlie ick with (lie thers which ating labour, by midnight, ing day, and di/ed, we scl ;lit ut nighl, ; way iniicii returned to miles. The and bedding three in (he er two boal> for ten days i s to allow ol oiling reseni ic business it { c, repairing ep ol' seven one; having | ping again all hut ililgaxcj ight ihernio rse, with an I liiivi'il ijii'in TO THE AltCTIC REGIONS. .4,3 On ' STolh 'T '''"'*'«"-"«•" '" '•'•" ^'ho held all the responsibilitv t7^Lt "'""'«"^' ''^'^'^'^ ^''« ««•« fell, Ste'jhermom::; Much of land-jesting thorn hag been, in the prose of the Fop IVi;i that wS then. d I .7": '''".' '' ''''^'''' ' ^"' " '« «« '"«'• from 2nlav .ir u r" T'' ^'"•^'' '"""«" "«'"'•« «« situated ian 1™ i^^*? '"'T ""•' ;«l''»«W''. »■• even the vS „„ ate "d"n «j ■ w, r r,:", '"'I'l''' ""('""'iWlily 01. Iii. pan, it cannot ivliicli he docs uul ulwuy, ,i(|„i„ ;. . P""" ofrhe''J^w~bl™TI "'''ir' ""':« "" »'<"■«»• »nd boat, ont ine »now More wo conid iiripeocd. Our road was murli en ^rnrl^::;:; :;''■"";'*• ''■'"" "'"«»'«• '■"' ™«xls: ; 01 oui posilions in about m hoMrn, nt nn island near the main and o«y neaiysnh,, led ,,,!,„ |„„,„„|„,„,, "»■! "™ l'l"« IH'.l night. the e«r,t™i' ""'",*"•"""" '"'I- >l'o othc- boat. conlaininK 1 eextia neck. p,,n,.,„„. , „„,,, ,„ ,„ f ,. K w been left rone":;™/, r^.'j;';:;:.^!','''!..."!:.'!:!**^ »'-'■ .be ne„d,y w„,e„,|doy„d in onrryini.l.rrwai.diCr.Mg..,'':,"!; 414 SEC^OND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY the tents, beddmg, and provisions, in spite of a gale which, .isi,,. when we were about halfway, gave us much trouble ; as di< 1^ dehcency of two of the men, who had become snow bhnd \\l arrived late, and built huts for the night. _May 15.— The journey was deferred till the evening, on account of the mens eyes; and it became thus necessary that we shou d hereafter turn day into night. We passed across a narrow ne k ol land, and continued our route to Echpse harbour; but were at last entirely stopped at the point, on its southern side, bv the fo, midable nature ol the ice. Here, however we found that this bai was divided from the sea to the northward by only a narrow neck of land, and that, beyond this, the ice was not bad Ou the Ifith we passed over Eclipse harbour, through muoi, snovv, and crossed the neck just mer.tioned, which wasonlyfive hnndml yard.s wide, and not above fifty feet in elevation. VVo thus descended to the sea on the other side, which proved to be a spacious harbour, containing one island ; boi:nded to the north bv a point so ugh, that the sea could not be seen over it. The boat was St mile's "* '"^inla»d;,and we returned, after an advance of On the 1 7th «Avo sledg s were taken on to the same point, and the remainder of the provisions were transported on the IbllowinR each load thus costing us a sixteen mile walk. On the 1 9'h we set out with the remainder of our equipage, and arrived at the next advanced post at eleven. The snow was so deep amd .he rond 80 bad on the following day, that we could barely draw the tvv., hghl sledges i but, in spite of this, we arrived at length at four in the moniing, at the station, which was twelve miles from tl.o 6hip; after which we took the empty sledges and reached the erminat.on ol the bay, on our return to her, about four miles from iier plact!. .n.MP ^i" "•*"'''''''"* ,""^"'"'*'' «''""' noon, we found another month s ifl-oviMons ready, which was nearly all that remained; b... we ascerlflined that it would require a week to repair the sledges ••uid put the n.en in a condition to draw thein. We had time. hn t'T \V''"r7 '"' ^" ''"•^ lal.ly done; and the result «as tha wo hMl .ravelled three hundred and twenty-nine miles to gain •hoiit (hir y in « .Inert Ime; carrying the (wo boa.s with full al- lowance ol provisions for five weeks ; and expending, in this labour. \i J J "■'''' '"'^■••^•''■' "'« ^vorst part of the road. ^>lay 22 iV 2;{.— The two days nKer our arrival were so bad, lom a northerly gale and drill snow, that we were well plea^d to be on board; but, n» ii u,oder«ted on the next, a party went oH u.th (be sledge, eonla.ning b mon.h's provision at lu.lf allowance. " """"■""' " '"«■ twelve mile »iHiion. We were bii-iied in ry .-iiirti Ai They had fc was, in con: May 27.- the men W( plus at midi May 28.- parture. T could be sp place that i mast, sails, men carried as the (bird licles. May 29.- lould be of I not, would p ' fore hoisted j p pool ship, ai my own adie was the first having servei It was like th the point wh( sketch of (his solitary, aban movable ice, May 30 — , road improve we did not arr I following mo '■ ward more th not gain the n ended the moi meter at night I may now Iftkeu. Thiswa provisions for i and half (ho p other half, (ill ^ ' hght party o| This month miles more (o I • rry inUiiTereni vliich, rising ; as did the blind. \V(. ( on account t we should laiTow neck >ut were at by the for- iiat this bay arrow neck augh mu(;ii as only five ition. We ved to be a north by a 10 boat was advance of point, and following: 9'h we set it the next the road w the two at four in from the laehed the [iiiles from 1 another lined; but le sledges had time, •esult was es to gain h full al- ls labour, TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. They had found &?J t £ ETdT ''' '"'''r,"™"''' ™. inconsequence, entircTy cZged' "''"'"' °"'"' '*"'' Plu. a. ™d„i,K and .,ad Z. J^^ il^rZr "" °°" ''" Mhlhc firsl vessel Ihal I lia.l ever been obliged I,, V>.,!i r rtiay dO —.48 we proceeded, we found the snow Inidpr l\. i roau imDroved • vpi dm 1.-, , i j ,"*""* "»'fpr, and our riP ,i; P . ^^'? ' y«' V'« "Ciivy loads made our proRrcss slow n..,l jed.dnotarnveallhetwelvrmile huts till noon U one on' ^onow.ng n.orn.„K.we proceeded, but could not loni ea r^lo ward more than two sledges at once, up the hills • ho tb« L 2 ^ This month had bronithl n^ m 7ft' o\ i,.. . i i ^ ^*'"^'''- ™il« more to Kli U 1 1' 1 ! .l^„i ..'"''"'"' '•'«^'"« "« "'"^^o" Very iiiUiiierent condition f iliz«b(!lh harbour ; and ihouirb /nil* tit*nt' ■-r m a r<'«- work, all, even the blind man and 110 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY the lame, were obliged to exert themselves in some manner, under which, with a revival of hope, they contrived to keep up their spirits. ^ ^ ' The slate ^ the ice at this period, and it was now a late one, was incredibly ba.). The sea was every where one solid mass of the Jieaviest pieces, as far as the eye could reach, in every direction • and even the cracks which we had lately noticed in the marginal terraces, were again filled up to the same state of soliditv with all else. All was rock : it seemed as if there was never to be water again: but whenever this might happen, it was now but too plain that the result could not be to liberate the ship which we had left withm the present year. It was at least satisfactory to find thai there was no ra»nness in our proceedings, and that nolhinK biii what we were doing could have been done. CHAPTER L. .I..HP, 1832-Oiir Journey with the Sle.lgen and Boats-Arrival at Fury Be«rl,- iransactions and Detentions (luring July. June 1 —At eight in the evening, we set off with three sledges, and lound the snoxv hard ; but there was no water any where, so that we were still obliged to thaw it for drinking. At seven in the morning, we arrived at the third station, eight miles fuHlier in ad- vance; and, as usual, the remainder of the day was allotted to rest. June .1— We reached the next huts this day with the remainder ol our provisions. The men seemed then much fatigued, and (he mate HIanky, being deputed by them, intimated their desire to abandon the boats and spare provisions at this place, and proceed direct tor lury point. I had already suspected something of this nature; but as wo should thus leave our resources in a place to which It was impossible to return, I no' only expressed my refusal, but ordered Che party to proceed, in a manner not easily misundcr- st-oou, and by an argument too peremptory to be disputed, after reprimanding the ambassador for the exireme impropriety of his comliict. It was the first symptom approaching to mutiny which had yet occurred. . ' I am no( now willing to say more respecliug things which I (hen "^"^ ""' luumiL-t: iiit-innnnan a-ac nafgabaiV lor (he mUlMV VH5\ n inner, under eep up iheir aie one, was mass of the y direction ; he marginal litv with ail to be water 3ut too plain !ve had left, .0 find thai nothing but Fury Besch— i-ee sledges, J where, so even in the '•her in ad- tted to rest. I remainder cd, and the r desire to nd proceed ling ol'thi^ a place to my refusal, ■ misundcr- (uled, after ■iety of his itiny whifli hich I then r ilie saietj P la 1 i To THE AKCTIC UEGIONS. 4,, of the whole party, and l.a.l declined rnenlioning on our return to '^ngland. I havo ever been more desirous (o praise "haLtotZe ZIJ\\ ' '"'"* ""^ "'''^ remember, more than I oan helo what there w«« to cennure, with somewhat more of severltv as of June 4.--0„ the ridge of Eclipse harbour, this day, we found hat there had been H(,me pools of water, which were agafn (Vozen hree .nche. thick. «„d woarrived atourhutsat six wfl ereusei he summer tenl«; and though the temperature wasat free ing ihov XurtnT'"'"''"'''^'' ""^'"^ '^''^ "^^^-g'^t - the reSnde; in r Sn;Sr;^ V" -^'^-d,^-- J«-neys, we proceeded n me evening with the sledge and one boat, and at midniJ.t crossed the ndge which bounds Kli^abeth harbour on thesouth^ Un the following day wo reached the extreme entrance; deposit- ng o... loadH and returning to the tents for the remaind;r ^ We lort tl^I^r^W ""■" T.'^''^ ^^^'^'' ^''^' -mewhat ou «"««' height, to be covered whhJanvasVnT?" ^''''- ""\^"^° f««^ '" erected, while we ended t"snot;ddaVS'rr '''' ''""^ ""^ from the stores which had been itft ? a h.xurious supper selves from this deposit '^'"" ^« "''^^ ^"PPhed our- freSg! tlou^^^^^^^^^ thermometer at there blew a strong gale from th^lL^ V "?' "" ^*"'' morning, peded our work as th«Vir '*?f,*tward; which somewhat ini- had overeatla theois les bufl? V*" '""^^ *^'" '^« "«" ^ho the dispersed boarto a ^r'op teTl"? '"P'^^'.' '" '"'"^'^^ Julv 4 — Tho fi„.« "F'"Fe' place lor bemg repa red. being^te w^eb 1atMhan1.;d ': '"' '/f ^^'" '^'^ ^'"^ ^«y' house was finished and Jl ifi. ^'^^'" y^'' ''«*^" recorded. The this tract land Cfnrbee'n n ' "" "'"T,"^^°^ house; It snowed on the 5th and thi ^'TT'^^ ?"'^ ^""''^ Son.erset. cold, that the rai^ which had fell f'^'^'f*" "^''^f^e'-ly gale, so thethermometerLngbutao a r^ "^^ '^' ^'^^^^^ ^'^ree of again all the night, h! land w^H T' ^ ' ^^"'- ^« '^ snowed .owing .orning^s'^tttTLr^^^^^^^^ ^ ^^^ ^«'- whltere:c^f^hlrtb^"^^^^^^^^^^^ p'- ^o- two bulk heads and wo strott^^^^^^ strengthened by means of whole with shoulder of Lmtton!! V^^ r"'""'''^^ ^" "^ ^he Commander Uoss preLTnj a sn 'f' f n' *'"' ^^'^ ' •^"' one of them in his own wiv TI.pT ''' T"'. """^^^'^ *« ™^«g« to occupy, was ,Z::Zo tw 'Zroie' f? Z^'''''''''' another, containinc four smflllTI- r ' , ^ ^'^^ the men, and the cook's department wa Tt nt ?'he ■ '^' '"^'''^ ' '' P^-^^^'' the regular account of provisions '^"'''"" P''"*^'^*^^'^ *" 'ake wait L";;;ylX tf :f „'^?''' ^"^ "- - - the omng degrees undeKreezTn^ On Sunfa ; "'"?'' T"' ^^•"« '-' service recomme«ced,1ifte;m«r'2J!;'.!rL':^«"^ •'uiy 9to l5.~I\othintf of i,<,r;nT""T""' ""^"■"pt'""s- "^ 01 nolo occurred on many following days, 4ii SECOND VOYAGE OK DISCOVERV unless it be that the temperature rose once to 50% but was at the freezing point at night, on most days. It blew hard on the tweilih, but moderated on the following day : nor is there any thing to record during the whole of this week, on to Sunday, except that the work on the boats was in progress. July 16 to 21. — The weather was variable during the three first days of the following week, and there was a little rain on Thursday. The snow was slowly disappearing, but the night temperature never rose beyond the freezing point.* On one of these days I was able to ascend the highest hill, about a thousand feet high, whence I could perceive that the whole sea was a solid mass of ice, without motion, as far as the eye could reach. Some deep ravines, carrying no water but (hat from fhe melting of the snow, were, for this country, rather picturesque. July 22 to 3J. — Of the remainder of this month I need not give a detailed journal. The weather proceeded in the same manner, calm, windy, clear, hazy, and rainy, in rotation ; with a temperature at night gradually rising to 40°. Our work was uniform, consisting in the preparation of the boats and provisions : the occasional shooting of some dovekies and other sea birds formed but a small variety in this monotonous life. A slight disruption of the ice on the twenty-ninth, must not, however, pass without remark ; and it went on increas'ng on the following ones. In putting in order the Fury's three boats, one of which had been exceedingly damaged, I had at first to regret that we had been obliged to leave our own behind, as they would probably have been ready sooner than the others, which might possibly detain us after the water was open. But as it turned out, all was ready together, and we were in a state of preparation for our voyage. The general temperature of this July shows a mean of plus 35" with the two extremes of plus 50° and plus 22°. There had been rain but six times, and the first at a very late period ; but there had been a good deal of snow. Vegetation was therefore very back- ward. The men having been now on full allowance, had improved in health. . Calm. ]. Light a ii. Light 111 3. Gentle 1 4. Moderai 5. Fresh b 6. Strong I 7. Moderat 8. Fresh ga 9. Strong g 10 . A wholi and foresail. 11 . A storn 12. A hurri T/ie following in nn explanation of the Meteorological Tables formed at the end uj' the years 1930 anrf 1831. The direction of the wind is expressed fractionally, thus trtivs : that is, 4 Iioiiis at NNW ; the [luimrator expressing the number of hours, and the denominator the direction. When the figure occurs, it signifies that the wind was not in the direction expressed by the denominator, during the month. The sum placed to the right ef the denominator, gives the total force of the wind in the same direction ; Ihis will be given in fidl in the tables of the Appendix, denoted by figures in the fu1Ia>ving niuiinui' : TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 0. Calm. 1. Light air, or just 2. Light hreeze 3. Gentle breeze 4. Moderate breeze 5. Fresh breeze 6. Strong breeze 423 sufficient to give steerage way J or that in which a man-of-war, > with all sail set, and clean full, •J would go in smooth water. 7. Moderate gale 8. Fresh gale 9. Strong gale 10. A whole gale, or and foresail. 11 . A storm, or that 12. A hurricane, or 1 to 2 knots, j 3 to 4 knots. ? 5 to 6 knots. Royals. Single -reefed topsails and topgallant-sails. Double-reefed topsails. Triple-reefed topsails. Close-reefed topsails and that which scarcely could bear the closT-reefed main-topsail t^L'"'*!.^?"''* '■^•'"•'^ ''«''t° «*'"•"' staysails, that which no canvas could withstand. !or that which a well-conditioned man-of-war would carry in chase , full and by. CHAPTER LI. ""r tt' Cot-l:Jrr;rStiTra^ Boats-Ocention and Ditficulties attempts to Proceed-Re^turtST^yTeS-SuSSX^^^^^^^ ""^ wateTatd 2lhphtt "P' ''^' "']" '^"^^ ''""' "^^''^^Me clear water, and as the boats were also ready, we prepared to deoart with tlZ^^ ''''"^ "''^ '' ^"'^ '^'' '''^^' «°d reacreaffS Lay be fore the departure of the whaling vessels. The boats were stoi^d otLt reSThin'' '";^^ i ""''^'''^ '^'^'^^ thfbXfand otnei needlul things; and each carried seven men, with an officer Uve^lntreof^r^'t' "'^'^T' copies of our charts and narr" lives .n case of separation ; and a bottle was buried in the house containing a short account of our proceedings. ' nekin hp ^^^'^ ^' l""! '" '•'" afternoon, but found the chan- nels in the ice very crooked, and much impeded by floating nieces so ti at It was with difficulty we could use our oars.^ OurYog^^^^^^^^ wa much r;'"^' '"' '^^""S ^''''' '^' ■•--«' off whi^h tC Tyreci J rjl '''\rj'''' «t«PPed at nine o'clock under the very precipice where the Fury was wrecked. It beine low water hat iUvS'sr '■' r "° '''''' ''' «««^'"^' ateleven, itVare:ide ; as quickly as possible, and hauled up on the beach. down^'andTvvo l!"'""'' ^^'^ '°°"' ''"'" ^^' '''' i«""ediately came uown, and two lloes ne.Tr nc «,n,.o i..w.L'-r <- -■ ■■ ■ • CVllHh «n au <„ f "i "" /'. ••^'^" I" i'-'VVVS, vviin a Violent ctash, so as to form a ridge ol hummocks close to the shore. The ii' ^^,. 484 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY distance which we had tlius made was eight miles; and it was a singular coincidence that we experienced this narrow escape, not only where the Fury was wrecked, but on the same day that she was lost, eight years before. *ug. 2.— We hoped that the flood would have caused the ice to open and shift in the night; but it became so much worse that we were obliged to haul still higher, and to cut a dock for the heals in a large hummock : a position and a delay which gave the carpenters the opportunity of finishing some work that had been left incomplete. Some rain in the course of the day loosened stones from the precipices, one of which, struck a boat's mast ; and vye found, from the fragments below, that the vicinity of this pre- cipice, which was four hundred and seventy feet high, was a place of danger. This seems but a cool remark to make, where such a cliff, rising to such an altitude, impended over our heads, and when we knew, what all know, the effects of a thaw in throwing down those rocks which the previous ice has split. In reality, it was a position of the utmost danger : we might all have been overwhelmed, without notice, in half a minute, as the stale of the beach below testified, or the brains of any individual among us might have been " knocked out" before he could have suspected any such accident. But I be- lieve that we were fully fried by hazards, and had become somewhat careless ; though a little reflection soon taught us that we need not add this unnecessary one to all that we had passed through and all that was still before us. Aug. 3.— It was a most intolerable day of rain and sleet, with the thermometer at the freezing point during the night ; nor did it clear till the following evening, while we were constantly annoyed by '^;e falling of stones from the cliff. The wind continued from the noi lli east, but the ice was once more fixed, especially to the northward, and the temperature a degree lower. Aug. 6.— It being at length fine, I walked to the northward, and saw a probability of our reaching a safer beach two or three miles off, where a stream entered the sea ; since there was considerable fear lest some of us should be killed, in our present position, by the incessant falling of the stones under the effects of the thaw, which was general in the day. We reached it at noon, with considerable difficulty; and some water shortly afterwards opening, we passed more precipices, and succeeded in getting a few miles further along the shore. We then found the water to the northward to bo a solid mass of ice, and were obliged to haul up the boats, once more, on a beach where we were almost as much annoyed by falling stones as we had been in our last position. Aug. 7.~-Thc ihermometer was at Mi" in the night, and did not m' ' TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ,.^5 rise beyond40" in the day : during which the outer ice moved a little Foxes tnnr"^/f ' T^' but without any useful resu ts to s' toxes, gulls, and doveii.es were numerous; but we dared nnHJn!" while we had barely room for our lente under -.e .re o „, The aTexcellet hferr^.r^''''*""'' f^i'""?"-- U'e lenlsand soneTbv !;l' r'j":^' ""!. ''."'"J O" "■« ' 2* «" were impri- soued by snow and w,nd, and by the absolute closure of the ice'^ with a blfil^F , vT Tr t'"'" '"-^'y- "'• ™«ni was sent oneo^ar, n n 7j ' 'V^'" '™''"' provisions : there being us iTmI^ 'I'^l .^s ol finding some passage ; but it continued to lead m o'lt of our coursi , till it joined (o Leopard's island, so as to embay us : and ns (he wind was again increasing, it was with great ilinicnhy we wea- (hered it, so as to r uin the land about a mile nordi ol Cape Scp- pings, yet without l»eing able to get to the beach, which was every where blocked up by heavy ice. There was snow, and (he range of the thermomed n the (wenty-four hours was from 'M\° to 'M\ Aug. .'10. — Wo were obliged (« sleep in our boats, in no coni- forlable position ; and as o place was not tenable, wc re-emb irked at bix ill (he in ""»» Iv wind. We soon met wi(h the ice pa pose, as t the shore, I ing up the a view oft gunwales ( Aug. 31 to the groi f^ "Jnd here and as we i place was i main by a broad, and the ice had of the seasci pletely full under (he ii August h of hopes ar On quitting every advau us with |he ] and then ol making a pa ever, that w detained so we should si Here was house, built i afforded thei for the chanf detention rec as unnecessai place; since to the people pound of brc supper, whici ling permitiec urious allowa amounted bu( of ducks. All month. The boats pr«; . ed so jma' ;,^^^ afforded them «Vm. „ ~^^ lus, and that the mean was 31« plus, which relatively lo our former Augusts in this country, gives the follow - mg comparisun : 1H30 Highest, lowest, auJ mean temperature isai Diuo ... 1833 Ditto ...."■■ -h 58 -f 33 4- 40.H7 -f 54 4- 24 4- 30.51 -K 40 + iO -t- 31 2;< CHAl»TEK LII. li tlini it lka<>a>»<. ....... 1....11 ii^. ,1 .■ " r- — riTT.v p. jtuti.Tiiy t siiurr, the ihrrmoint-lfi (ailing to winds, 1 when the look place Sept. 9 ceding, wi the hill on 'ow's strai C'pting a > lands. Tf form. Sept. 1(5 •■'«ing to ih "'gilt. It \\ .snow walls lendered tli •he land, u «.Hain on th ptarmigans; 'n the begi "le fox bnd Sept. M). and not ri.sir '•" ' ^^'^ ''«d though Sept. !».-ft ';/ i ;:?d,rT.rf ''■'' '^ ""^ «"-- --' «"d not rising above 2^ b j a 'tl e i '''^'"'"'"^'f '«'""« to 18», •>" "'« 20lh, wo embark >d our htl I "^^"'''^ '" '"' '"»««"'"» l''«^-«edings in a tin case ben It 1 f!:. T^'-"" "*^'^«""' ^^ «"'' reached the pack edge «f the ice .HT ' "'''"V'"""' "«''"' ^^« and J^rince HcKent's inlo. in r '"^ J""'^""" of narrow's s rait ^•."'- which l.Xen t, tmed'"V"^ 7 ''T''^'' "-•''of """0"s solid mass, giving no bin. of » T '^"""'^ '" '''' « «-«"- •;ent season, advan ' d at uIZII'T'Z 7 'i"'"^' "" P^« blocked up by heavy ice- so tbn.T .v '''"'' ^^'«« <''P'al^ we ha.l corned though Lot ^2^T "^''f^ '" •"''•"'•" ^^''^^ne" and not landing a m'LeloC\?'f,:'.''"'"^ 'n-ch dimculty. -Own on (be shore with Kr^tZc; ' / "' """»«Ji»t«'y fame "'rough this great obstaclelil .. '"'^ ""' ''"' ''«P«' «« K^t 'rial, thou,h'it sLtirlli;;:;;!';^ '" ""' ''"•^ '" ''• '"•"-■ ^^e^e:z:!;:f!,:;:;:^t 'z S^^j;; ""-'^•"^ --'- that nil hope was at an cnd.nd b < '' '"""y """ «K.red •eturn to [.'.Iry beach. ( ). 2 ^ Iv tb?^^ T'""'""'' ^"'* "" '•> able, an.! the in-sbore ire i n IV ^ V'"*' ''"*' "'<"0 favour- «"n'«po Seppin ' w, 'h ;?'""' " '""« ^vater being „|«o seen buried in the same »l. re 1 I"' '""'""'*''' '" ♦•'"'>«••«'; '':^ » iu.ention,. u,;,l"'Vi!':%" ''«•*' ««^«CMm» of „,„. proceeding. „„.! ~^-"" of our discoveries. 430 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY At noon, we sailed with a fresh breeze for our return " lioine ; and, arriving at the Cape, found a clear, but very narrow passage, between the main ice and that on shore, just allowing the boats to pass singly : after which, standing on through water which sheatlied them two inches thick with ice, we arrived at our former position, near Elwin bay, by six o'clock. We could not, however, ap- proach the shore, and were at last obliged to sleep in the boats, in a creek not far from it, during a very raw, disagreeable niglit of snow. Sept. 26. — Attempting to cross Elwin bay the next morning, we were much beset and stopped by the tloes, and were finally obligeil, at midday, to haul into a cove in the ice, when we pitched our le.ni on it. By six on the following morning, the thermometer bad fallen to zero, though it rose to 20° in the day; and we remained prisoners: gaining somewhat towards a dinner, in a fox and hvo gulls. The ice became more loose on the next day, and we de- parted, making a very slow progress through heavy bay ice ; wlion a gale coming on at ten in the morning, increased so fast that wo could carry no oail by mid-day, and were obliged to put ashore on the land ice. We were, unfortunately, under the most terrific precipice dial we had yet seen, two miles f.om the norlh cape of Hatty bay having but six feet of beach beneath cliffs which rose live hundred feet above us. .4 speedy removal was therefore absolutely neces- sary ; but an easterly wind bringing the bay ice on us, wc were de- tained l! {) next day : our only consolation, in the meantime, being the shooting of three foxes, with some ducks and gulls. We were now reduced to half allowance of provisions, having lonj^ been on two-thirds. 8ept. 30.— A motion in the ice allowed us to pass the norlh cape of this bay : but we soon found that (he southern one was com- pletely blocked by heavy and solid masses; while, after miuli labour, we could do no more than reach a iloe extending a mile from the shore on the southern side of this indentation. The bcacli being here found promising, the boats were hauled up on the ice, and we proceeded to land the stores. Anxious as the preceding months had been, owing to (he im- pending prospect of our deliverance from that miserable country in which we had been so long imprisoned, and to the diflicullies which had beset our attempts to extricate ourselves, the present one had passe """*' n«t .ni happen, to'ls^ ^;^::r;;s jijr ^" '-^ ^"^-''''"''- "Iways diJIiciilt progreMH Vyiihlu ^ ' f^''" ^""'"•'- «"«! Commander l^,s Z, . . d to I ! 'f ' '^"^'^ "'' ''•" "•«"'l'. "- escape; ^^.d I' !u ttn i";h"l'rusr'''f '''''''''' whatever regret, I be«„n mvlelf . \ \ T'^'' '"y^ ^'"l* M.cceed in pLi, « t o'^r S "f ' ,' r''"" '''''"'''• ^« "''""''^ •hero cy»uld be „o rLuire f, . I ' ''"T" ' '" '^''"'''' «««''• year, I shouM hav o^ fIvK .' ?""'''"'' ^^""^''' «»«'!"'•' ;i.e n.rtnne of a,;;^;.nr,o'Si::'t; ^i,^':..^ .«-^ !>« "iree last. " af.v-,.it. auc-n yrarastri« il ml': (■ 482 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY If it was tlie Iruiiless altempl to cross the strait on tlie tweniipih whicii had biou^ht my mind to ihis slate of feeling, the effect was not to he itnlnlged; rior did my opinions tend in any degree to alter my resohition as to our condiiiU, or rather afi to r.v own re- specting the men under my charfco. While ther« was die remotest chance for ns, it was my duty t > persevere, as far a>\ as loiv. at least asl should be justified by ihe state of our ^rovisiont: ; iince^i if we should be obliged to leave our boais at ilu- furthest poini where wo could succeed in placing them, we should ho obligefj to travel back, eighty miles, over a roai? so rugg/ J that it would necessarily occupy a very long time, and, with thaL iuOuco a great conHJmpliou of our stores ; which we could riot afford to have incioascU !h yond what we iiad actually (aken, from the great laljoni o\ '^nn^Vi );i and oar very limited means of car- riage. HaviOf^, as I alro\.N Moified, left the chest of minerals nvo" a no- table calm, as beinir ici heavy foi' us to carry further , 1 rai.sl here point out its latiiuiie as 73' 51'; Jhat having been deduced from two meridian latitudes io the sun. The mountain, therefore, wJiich I formerly mentioned as being situated at this place, lies between the latitudes of 73" o.'V and 74" north ; and as its longitude is 90" west, it occupies the place at which 1 had marked Croker's mountain, in 1818. I cai) therefore have no doubt that the land on which I now stood was the same that I had seen in my first voyage, and which I had been able to observe very distinctly from the vicinity of the ni.Mjntain to which I then gave the name of Hope's monument. Since that period, it has been considered as belonging to what havv been termed licopold's islands ; thus receiving a new name which I cannot admit. I must therefore restore to it that one which I originally conferred, and in assuming a right granted to all dijjcoverers, reclaim, of course, the right also of discovery over a land of which I then took possession. Since this spot is also a portion of the mainland, and not that island whicli iias been asserted, in ihe more recent voyage to which I have thus referred, it is equally my duty to point out that the discovery of the north-east cape of the American continent thus belongs to myself, and to tiie original voyage which I made to these northern seas. Finally, m thus restoring the original designation of this spot, 1 must equally assert my right to establish every thing else connected with it, s t stands in niy own charts, and therefore to replace the names wis .f 1 then conferred on several objects in its vicinity. In thus speaking on bject, I must not be accu. i* o him \ The csrc '.o prove ai and on the indeed, wai have been I had assei incapable o over; as ha It was nc preceding v into a solid precisely wl from the sta detention, tl: while there , to penetrate experienced, If the asi wotrue, so a this strait in be. It had weather for r of the winds are indebted gress they c while we wei this was from ice instead of if not to have off Lancaster to the northw, Jvou!d , iiH^iicn a I'l a f ford to I, from the ns of cai- ineo"a no- [ raiisl here d frum two re, wliicli I etweori tlie s 90" west, ountaiu, in liicli I nuv and W'liich nity of the lument. ig to wliat new name one wliieli led to all ry over a it is also a n asserted, rred, it is noi'th-easi If, and lo i. I'inally, list equally illi it, s ♦ inesvvJ -.! -^ : .0. 1 M»*3 '.•86 ■ P.i'i nlead- | mo. ^:*re- B TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS negict, and torpidity oTthe wor 5 f "?'""""'? ^^ ^^^^ 'S»«'-ance, not followed : an'd though there^^sUfmodeZ? '" '' • ^'"""'^^' bear the most remote parallel to L?« ! . d'scoveries cannot the fame "^everyltn, We smdl \T' Tu^' ^"''««"«° '^^^ it i^, hi,,.self, not le s p, ecLs Thl' l'^"'"^ ^'^'''s''*' ^"'^ ^^'^t '3 - hi., who holds atf^r^^slit J L^Cfd-fir^^^ '^^^' p^sr=:::rSyT;i5S^^ have been far better for L at nresPnt T f ^^ «[ W^s : it would , I had asserted to have been t en true bain ''''" ^^'^^ ^'"«»' incapable of freezing, had it neve, hp!" ^ a ^"'°^^' '^'^''^ been over;ashad been L:!^,^:^^'^^^^^^^^^^^^ .r^S;-:^^^;,^;:::^^::^^ bee„ ., dnnng the into a solid sea, from Admirakylllet 'to rT^r"" T '^ '^''' ''^'^ precisely what I found it to be in 1818 ^ '" f ' ""'^ ''''« '« from the state of things wUh u durin!' .1 ^^ '^"""? ""'« ^^^^^ detention, that this had blen s condlnV ^'T ''{''"' P''«««"t while there are even proofs nhk '^7"^ ''^® ^''^'^ P^'iod ; to penetrate into urseraVdl^^^ experienced. ' " '^^ '"''"''«s which they -l^^^o^rJietinlterirt t^ ^^"^^r^^^'' '« ^^«-^ro this strait in is/s L^s rS^^^L'tTth^^ ''' ^""''^'^" «f be. It had been a calm \lZn I , «epresented it to weather for navt4tfnguLsers;nce7- ''", T' ""''^vourable of the winds that'the .ce c^n re o ' ^d 'ndT^ '\'"'^' '^' ^^'^^ are indebted to the northerly ga^ of s.m.merr''''r ""''««*«••« gress they can make In lUut ^"™'"«'^ '^o'' whatever pro- while we^were on ' s pa"t o he cZ""l '^T "" """' «"« »«'« this was from the soul ."^^o the no-T N T? '^" ^'^' ' ^"'^ «' ice instead of dispersinR it so a^f ' ' u '"'*' '" '^'•*»« "P f pnivisions. There was great reason to dread their hea already si remediabi A revie Septembe the perma whick sur sea which month ha( was there whole lane covered wi thing bore Having i leave at iV( we had ma spot to Ca{ might have put me onci have draw country. \ lection a.Ti the Append natural hist Continuation of — Establish oi — Journal aw Oct. 1.—' the thermoni breeze made whole sea, g!v It was the wc boats, and V mark. Oct. 2.— J ; in our at- u! whether h, or even t remained )ly critical, ire, should It ten days' el enough r our con- iirn out to this point, ! whicl. jl II increase •eatesl suf- I unable to iS9, so that when we JS not now ly keeping our hopes lat energy laintained. { passions, i to every ly may not )9 may not t ought to ng charge and hopes ms whirl) , we were 3 lormerly whatever larly was jclore us, Rss indeed le convic- it was, III proourini; )ur whole ng of real "-«'y thing bore the aspect of deeptimer ''''''"""" '^'^' ^""' ^-'^ leav::uCreaJ,?;:i^^^^^^^ "Tll^ ^''''^'^ ^-P^'"^^ -to we had madt I m y^'Za V ifafrS 5' """^^^'^ -»•-•• spot to Captain Humphreys of ttlsablr'wt.rT'*'^ '"' *^'^ might have reached that S e „ the sti-^'^'' '^' *>«?« '''«t he put me once more into po sessirnof ' t"? f ""l"""' ^"^ ''^"'^ have drawn up an LcountJ'^'^^^^^ countrv. While th"s slle.l g«o»«S'cal structure of this lection'a.rived bui rir. T^'"'?'^'''*''^ P''^^^' ^'^^^ ««>- the Appendix amot the n.h^ ^' .^' * """ ''"'"P^"^'^ '« '«''«'• to natural histm-y^ '""'"' '""'"^''^ «PPe. u t way. Sundi^y morning found us a few ho -s miuie of similar work; and this be:ng over, we reached our house, Somerset house ll; e o'clock; our labours at an end, and ourselves once more at home. But we had left the tents at the last stage, to accommodate the m.n that remained behind, who were to return as soon as possible for the clothing and oI'ht matters which could not be broujrht for ward at this time. fi We 1 escape. hungry t men wer did not p to have fi Thefo the sledg heavy gal our hous ice outsid of bay ice of water ( This st piepared derably ft beyond \i ice which On the momeler f ice to the seen to th( might hav( might oblit Oct. 13. after prow the canvas sion to our culty in kee had the go( beginning t We had rence in th l(!th, till nc outside, in ( ging. On set off with some of our Oct. 18 t was notliinf mander Kosi which had l^ other stove, Oct. 22.~ .1 TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 43, li>'ngr< IhancoU biZlriZlTl ' ""'' "' ™ ""•'= "»» ''^ men were IreatedwUhaLln ,""''.. '? r'^"' " '"■'•''I'"*', "-e .« Uve L. u.e. and rra^btXp^yTnUn' LZ "'"' '°""'' heavy gale renderad , „!,' 'fj"""'''"- 1''"™'^ On ll,e lOlh, I ««.. L™« r.i Bret dan^,.''°°,';r;\'"l''''°f '''''''''• ""'' "^ of bay ice ;,.„. nrlaVlT S TL' iT ^d a faT' ""'"' »l wa(er opened to ll.e noilh-easi ' ^e space P^'^^dra^roTevte 'aid";""'? ""' '"""r' °°' ^" derablv from th, onU \ . . P'^^™*'"'^. we suffered consi- :re:.orw--Sn{r^-^^^^ nnel,. have a*d™ ho, ''!,' T' ,"™ "'''"''•■ " ■"<'°"' '''f°™ "■ af>e/p™twn?;o hTllr '^''*""»" '" '''- >»»'' ""con.mon slorm : bad (he good K et lak? br A™*'"'"? '•''""'' ""= ^'O'" ^ ••"' beginnin .0 be „ z^:^::::::^^^'' ■■ ' ™"- »»" some olou/stltad b:„X-:'d'^™"'^""™ ""'" ""f' ""^^ "~ ^"■'^ ^"^ OpuHca, now . iusuu ihe bay, as was ^i 43S SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY foreseen, and tlie iheimoraeter fell to minus 10". The additional stove, however, now kept our house even warmer than we wished, since we could raise it to 51". A snow wall, four feet thick, was built round it ; and further j)ars and ropes were applied to support the roof, for the purpose of covering it with snow. A continuance of storms on three following days rendered all work impracticable. On the last days of this week it was milder, and we were able to continue our operations. Oct. 28. — Divine service was renewed on this day, after a longer cessation than was agreeable to our feelings, and after a much long- er one than was right : but for this there was no help; it were well if those who neglect this duty at home could find excuses as availing. After this, the men had their last dinner on full allowance, as it now became necessary to retrench. We found a roasted fox to be a very good dish. Thus at least we then thought: I imagine that hungry men do not much attend to flavour, or, as the moralists have told us, that hunger flavours all meats. I have had reason to doubt, since ray return to the beef and mutton of England, and to the dinners of "Grocers' Hall," whether I might not have overrated the flavour of fox; and I suspect, too, that even Barney Laughy, though educated on porridge ao'l potatoes, has made the same dis- covery. It blew hard on the 29th, and increased to a heavy gale on the three following days, so th.it the month of October ended as se- verely as was well possible. We however now found the advantage of the snow wall, and had no reason to complain within doors, though the thermometer went down to minus 18°. JMuch clear walfer was opened in the offing once more, during this last storm. The month of October in this year surpassed all others for cold and stormy weather; there being only six days moderate. Our journey from Batty bay, which was accomplished in four days, was exceedingly laborious, and, from the nature of the weather, very trying to all the men; but had we been obliged to walk all the way from our furthest position, the journey would have been fatal to some, if not to all of us, since we should have been overtaken by the storm of the 9th. We therefore felt very thankful that we had been so mercifully permitted to reach even this cold and drearv spot in safety. Having constructed our house previously was also a very' pro- vidential circumstance ; for, defective as it was, it could not have been nearly so well done at this season; and indeed before it could have been done at all, we must have suffered severely; but what we had most reason to be thankful for, is the store of provisions still left, now sufficient to last and n;ain(ain us for another -oason; and \^hea we exerted i our huml First, 1 the stores crew, for Fury bea( have got i boats, aft( having be teriai dani mer to wl Mr. Th provisions pickles, an gretted to more than season, tog same on T With It ternately, f the stores ( furnish to t flour and this compu since it was since our n indeed, was rations shoi The stori Hegent's inl of great ser Laughy, aw regular wat Nov. 1 to not intermit the snow-di could venlui storm, and ti comparative Nov. 5 & west wind, ( walls, and p pervious to nus ; and a i 'W^ TO THE AilCTIC REGIONS. 439 v^hen we reflect on the various circumstances which have as it were exerted themselves ,0 prolong our lives, we cannot but offerun our humble acknowledgments to the Great Disposer of events ^ first, I may enumerate the loss of the Fu.y, by which acccident hZl , f u ^' '^'^ ^"^'"^ ^'^''^•■S' without which we mi«ht LT so /o far that we could not have returned: fourthly, treF^S boats, after having been carried off in the storms of^ he wint Jr havmg been cast onshore near the same place, without arma- 1 to wTfh '■ """^ '"'^'y' '^' ^^'•^'••"^^'o" of a habitation in Lm- mer to which we were now mercifully permitted to return. Ml. Ihom now inspected and took an account of the remains of provisions ; namely, of the flour, sugar, soups, peas veT tab es Te te \:1 rTar^f^^"'''^' ""^ '" ^""'^^^^ though' we re-' ino 1 thin wou'li .1 " •""'''"' P'"''"""^ "'""''' '^''' ^'«« "«' more than would suffice for our voyage in the boats durin« the next With respect to the present rations, the men were allowed al- erna tely, pea-soup, with one made of carrots and turnips Tout of urn? h?'' 't ''"'"y- '"^'^^^^ ^f '"'««<'' ^vhich wecould not low floui an? ' ^f •^'^"S*"'/^"'. ^hey were provided with dumpUngsTf CVn 7'^"' "u"*^ ^'^^y ^«^ "« '■««'«» to be dissatisfied with his compulsory substitute. They were, indeed, sufficientlvTd W ir^u "'Tolr'' T' '^^^■^'"^ '" '"-^' »>e"e-ond'iU;n ^deed wifr ^ \P'T- ^"'" P'-^^*-"' allowance in meat, rations should begin on the first of November. ReS's'i^ret li^'f •"'"'''' ^ ^'■^^'""S "P ^he ice in Prince XeatVe V ' h Z'^'^' '' ^"'''" '^^^'"'=* ^'^'y- °'"«t ^ave been LauThv ai J J w';li ""' *«™P«''«'"''« ^as against us. Taylor, i-auguy, and J. Wood, were on the sick lis(. We began to Len ™C rts' "'lunf ir "" ":'r'"''"- -^'j 'w« Tol'"'' not ialermu uilThl sl ^ ' ?t '^'■°'" "«' "»"l™«', and II e Ihennomelei^ foil lo 18- ,„s. Oq Sumlav ic «... i 1 ' if m 440 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY snow at night, wLich continuing on the next day, lasted all the fol lowing; the ice driving to the southward, and opening much clear water to the north. Nov. 11.— Sunday was calm and cold. On Monday it blew hard, with drift snow ; still moving the ice and opening more water. Nor did it change on the next day, while the thermometer fell to 37" minus. The sun was in the horizon on the 14lh, and was seen for the last time on the 15th. There was nc change in the weather, except an unexpected rise of the thermometer to minus 10*. Nov. 1 6. — The gale became worse than ever, and there was now clear water as far as we could see to the north-eastward, which, on the next day, was entirely frozen over and covered with snow. On these days of confinement there had been abundanl work within, in litling up the bed places, and in constructing and supplying a ventilator. The good effect of this contrivance was im- mediately felt, in its carrying off the vapour. On Sunday the weather had moderated, but it was hazy on Monday, becoming calm on the next day. Thus it continued till a wind rose from (lie eastward, but not so as to render the work of the men, out of doors, in constructing a snow passage, impracticable. We saw a second wolf on the 22d, which was fired at, but not killed, since it was afterwards seen, wounded, but still able to escape. The men were mjprisoned till Saturday night, and the thermometer was then at 13" minus. Nov. 25 to 30. — Sunday did not admit of walking after divir.c service. During all the remainder of this month, the ice continued m motion, under a west wind, and moderate weather. The men finished their work, and the thermometer at the end of November was minus 32". The first part of (he abstract of this month, whicli I .shall give, relates to the temperature. The extremes were 8" ad 37" minus, and the mean is 20:" minus, being 15^" less than that at l>ort Uowcn m the corresponding month of l«21. This month had been still more remarkable than the preceding, for the constant succession of storms by which it had been disliii guished, and for being (he only November on record in which (he thermonuler never rose above zero. The maximum was I" minus, and the mean (omperature no( less (liau IU;» below (hat of (lie November in the last year; while it was 8" lower than that of (lie year before, and I5;«» lower than in the November of IS24, at Poi( Bowen. It was, however, higher than at Melville island, in 18lil ; though it must be remarked that this is in 2;'" of la(i(ude furdiei nor(h. I he open water had been seen (o a great ex(en( during (ho g.ile> of ihii, mi»nili, it wus with much diftkuitv (hut wo succceUcd ui finishin^i given. I)uri;i wi{hstan length SI that the closing VI were oui bo((om, blanke( e Our sy whatever and (hen and Thoi biightenci all in end advantage Dec. I 1 except thii mercury fi at (he san cession of and the ice of open vvj till it settle Dec. I. ( storm after fell calm; than we ha pieces of ici same now t and he we< week cnde«l Dec. HI I :jtrviee; an( rate, end u ter fell to I lienced. T rent times. Dec. 23 t aji to prcvcii tHKeu, j.|V( Inll allowaiH thi^rij uau iw worthy of nt TO THE AllCTIC REGIONS. ^^j nn^ingou.. habUatio.., a de.onption of which has beenahcady length succeeded in 3;, «,r. '". ' '" u?'" ^'•' ' **"' ^^ «^ that the tempera u,^ Z^ c V« „ Tnrl"'''''^'^ •'''"^^'•'^'^'^' '^^ closing wall«%Lri T«« T. «''«"' ^If- ^''cepUng near the on- were our cab nT 'iCi^^^^^^^ ^'"^^^'"^ P«'"^5 «« bottom, and a thru, ,^d " !u 1 , ^*''^ &' ^'^'' " ««"^«« blanket each, we w " "hi <^ I ^ ' 'V"'" '" •''^'^'""» ^o a Our svstep, of ^ ■ . . '""''^ "'«*' «^ '^^"^ber coverings. whateven^eZ, £f :ri'^" K '\'^^^"^"^'^' ^"'' ^^"^ «f --"«« and there w „ rn'on fc '• ^V^'^ "'Z^'^ ""^ ^^^'" ^« «"ff«'- and Thon,a«. th^ ««!«(..,'' "' ''"' ^"^1"'' *''« '«'"« '"^'^ b.ightened b^t ea3n ' ' frP«'^t.»''d ""'' '"'^«^''' ^««« all in ondnraMo ■;';';' ,;,T''^rf '." '^'' "'^^"''^ ' ''"^ ^^« ^'«^« advantages which' w.'lj:;',;'" ""^"''^"' ^^'^^^ '^«"'«"ted with the mercury froze on" L . '„? " "7^ '!*^''"'>' ^'y^ «"^ '''«t the at the same daU M 1 ""? '';!"■ ^T '"'"' "''" '» '''^ '««t year cession of stom w ' r^ «?. " "'"'"^ "L«'"' '^''' '''' ' '"«" and (he ice .till m». "."^ ""''' '""^ ' ^^^ ^'"^ «'ten shifting till .Settled at! v»V '"""""''''''« thermometer gradually rose stornTafler V.'*T/f r"* ""' ''^'1""'''" ''^""^"J'' '"" became a perfect 'ell <^I^ I. .. 'i:'«Zr1' '""-''«r '^'" '2th,>rhenU than we had yet .0 JK bavmg produced more open water Dieces of ie.. Zt ' . '' '^'"' ""^e'theless covered with floating 'arn^n^w to b" 3'^^^^^^^^ "bceted with a now formation ofZ week end..d w 0. n „ " f ' ^■''^' '''\ « «'»'« «" 'he Mth, the .ervice;« 1 tt JZ^^^^^ v.«lk on Sunday, after .ate, <,nd unm rke ' '"'^'''K become clear, continued mode- (er f..|| to r '"' '■*''" "' ""• ^^•'«»'; w'""' the thermomo- veut times. " !"*"" ''"'* ^•'''" '»'^'^" '" «»»' ""P at d,L ^^^^^^^^t^l^'Z!:'^' '''' the Sunday and Monday, ., '«Krn ervel Wo V ''"'"f """ ^"' " ''"" '"'vin/boeu 448 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY om did anything occur among ourselves (o make one day diffi another, or diminish the weariness of that uniformity to whiuii wo were now tied. The month and the year ended sufficiently cold smce it was again at the freezing point of mercury. In the couf se of tliis month it blew hard during most days, and always from the north and north-west; in consequence of whicii the ice was kept in violent motion. Open water was seen through all the month; and, on the last day of the year, it was visible from the beach as lar as the eye could trace to the north-north-east. The mean temperatur« f the month had been ]• below any on record; and the cold was very severely felt by us in our frozen habitation; but by increasing the mass of snow and ice on the milside, and by flooring the house, we made it more comfortable, Haifa dozen foxes were taken, and afforded us an excellent meal on Sundays and on Christmas-day ; which was the iirst that we had spent without tasting spirits or wine: these luxuries having been now utterly exhausted, as they had long beei set apart for those periods of regale, which a seaman does not easily resign and ought not to be allowed to forget. Thomas, the carpenter! was now the only person on the s.ck list, and it was a matter of considerable regret to me, not less on his account than for the in- terests of all of us, and the credit of our medical treatment, that the scurvy under which he now at length suHered, did not yield to our great specilic, lime-juice, which reallv seemed as if it had lost Its anti-scorbutic virtues, ti>out;h the fault probably lay in the increase of the causes of this disease. The aurora borealis had been seen but seldom, and was incon- spicuous, while its position uas generally «)ppoHed to (hat of the sun. Hill ((I end with t!ie summary of this month, the weather, variable and severe as it had been, became calm and clear, ihougli cold, and thus did we terminate the month of Dtceuiber, • and thi year IH'22. nUI'TKH MV Tbi' JounwU ut J«mi,n7, Fehruary, anil Murcli, IHW, with their rPHhcrtivr Hum- iimrieB--I)f;ilh hihI Kiiiienil i>l the Carpuiiti-r .!*>. I to «.- Onr new-yeur'n feaiit w«s like that of <:hriHlmas a«jf. The roinMiiiilvr of liie week was linn, and the petiple were able to tal 33° and 3 Jan. t) ( and the s it inoderai thermoiiiel ''ose a littl Friday aiK motion; ai to 2ii^. Jan. 1 3 I it moderatt om3s, so till week ; the t ^>P«ng then t Jan. ^0 t contiiuiod t\ The weatht bret'zes and ioi the first this week pi Jan. 27 t that we colli upper limb « three-(|uarte half after oi seventy-lour •he month w y^n hhort sf T hisi.iont ihat it pronii> about the ni while the exi • ur hubitatioi warm ouisel\ wore othorwii or other uccu door.-*. The i ailing: but ol I'Vh. 1 t(» J( I'ebruary; but meter Xm '?' '^"^^ "" ^''*' ^♦"™«'"*»«'- »'' ^he bemg then at 3 1 r ' ^"'' ""' ^''" ^'^'y '«^ '» comparison, ^o!Z^V!;n^^2:'^'1 rj'V «"'^ «°^ *^''ft «"»-' >-hieh The wp. Iw '""*''^'"« ''«y' ""d lelt the ice in motion on Tuesday 'or the Ct .i?l \ '^«'»'dtty the sun shouhl have Ikjcu visible very »!,„,., .pae^ *'"' " "' * ' '""••' ' H™' «l«>»g« ..Ihin . .!«" '^,::;;;,';;!;.,^;r,:•. ;;;;:',,;;;r:;:' '•"■ -t ''?v»' -"■ '"■" -my about .l,e midJir „ ,„, 1,^' T"'- " ""P'"«»l. I™wv.r, l(t 44" " "'^''' "'^ tnftriiioiiwnur ijten faiimg 444 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY Feb. 10 to 16. — The carpenter being now in a hopeless state, an appropriate sermon was read on the present Sunday. On Saturday morning he died. This was the coldest week which we had seen, the thermometer having ranged between 44° and 55° : the weather had also been variable, but not rqarked in this respect, after what we had .so often experienced. Feb. 17 to 2'i. — During the whole of the subsequent week the weather was moderate, but cold; and on the 22d, the carpenter, Chimham Thomas, was interred with the usual solemnity. It was not easy, nevertheless, to read the service out of doors, the thermo- meter being at 45°, while the ground was so hard that we had great difficulty in making a grave. This poor man had been three months, ill, and hip case had long been esteemed hopeless; as he was suffering from scurvy, in addition to a worn-out constitution. It was the lirsl of our losses, however, which could, in any fairness, be attributed to the climate and our peculiar situation : the lirst man who died could scarcely have lived longer at home ; nor was the death of the other one that could have been delayed long any where. Feb. 24 to 28. — The temperature rose suddenly from minus 36° to 6", and then remlml zero, falling agam Jo 23", till the end of the month. The fii>»( change gave us some hopes, but these did not last. In the weather, which was variable but moderate, there was nothing to remark. There is nothing surprising, as there i's no noveUy, in the re- trospect of February. It «;ould not have been much better, and it was satisfactory that it had not l>e«;n worse, bad as it was. What the weather had proved, I need not repeat: but as the temperature is not discoverable from the narrative, it is necessary to say that tin- mean was 32.87° minus; as that in the preceding Februaries were, respectively, for the years, minus 29.1)°, 32% and 33.09°. Tlic e.vtremi s were plus ()°, and minus 55°. The chief event was tiuit of the death of the carpenter, Tliomas, which, apart from any regret for a worthy and useful man, the more painful when we looked round on all, saw the de* uled illness of some, and could not easily avoid anticipatmg what our own late might be, was a very serious loss ; since his assistance could scarwiy fail to be reipiired hereafter, in the reparation of the boats, asd mi such other mallei^ as belonged to his profeaiion. Kespt>ctmg him- self, I need only note the ex« ellout charaeter he had ae^iiinMl, in tb«' mivy, before he joined us: fu:' ' oiuprDMte anv paiii that might have been felt under llic m.} that thi^ pxpedilum had hem fatal to him. we knew that hi> cur(»tiiu(trm had Immmi tiiiich impairni by l«mg service, especially on tin- Am. ; ike> uiid iii the HiniicM war. His age was (oity-cighl .ok' , 'iiiH- ot lib-, a seaman who has ! worn out, My owi troiiblcsor in no othei ing. I hfi be iiltimal which cas( might not prese.it to felt o'l my The Stat end of i\m h was so our inisera an Esquim these are f poetry nor can listen, March b( could not SI and, on tin ceeding till of this gah' extent. Tv very early i peralure wji March \{ the thcrmoii >t Iributcd to died could the other minus IW' end of tlic id not hist. us nothinu in the re- ter, and it *. Whaf pcraturc is ly that tilt- iries were, 0«». The , Tlionirts, I, the more iUneHh ot own late Id 8carr»»lv Its, aad n cting hiiM Ftd, in tii< tliut niiitii! had h('«'ii h impaired le liirm<- llZl K "" •'■"'"' '\'t '""^^ >' ^^'''' '''•' '•""•mometer at season *«« »e(«. leiuhng at a crack in the ice. During all the .einamder of iU,n week the weather was suHic.ently go Jfo enHble •be men ,„ ,ake exerei«|. daily out of doors. ^ Un-b 21. -There wn. « bard storm with .Irift snow to com- I" - .• th... •bMl, laH,..d ,he lirst three .lays of the present w^- Hid *« w.re v«..y eold, «. ,he thermometer went down to "{4^ It' ,.^e,..lo.HbeV7d,.u.dtl.^ i" n w '^"'"' '**" *"""""' ^'^'"« ^^•''•y ^■'•««*« ''♦'n'lv covered with >;now Tl... I 'Ml the H^f . .^i„ .iay« .,;- MnrrU were uniisuallv severe : the change .mi »aii great .,nd ...ddeu, b.ii did" not pr«»ve durnhle. 446 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY The mean temperatare thus became 20', as ih" extremes had been from minus 45" to phis 5*. The gales were exceedmgly severe, and the last, which was just before the equinox, continued during four days. The men had, therefore, as in the preceding month, been ex- tremely confined ; and thus the impossibility of taking exercise, added to a waut of sufficient employment, short allowance of food, and the jixivitable lowness of spirits produced by the unbroken sight of this dull, melancholy, uniform, waste of snow and ice, comliined to reduce us all to a state of very indifferent health. Mr. Thorn was ill, my old wounds were very troublesome, and two of the seamen were so far gone in the scurvy, that we were afraid they would nol recover. On this account more than any other, we had reason to lament our ill success in shooting ; as it was long, too, ere we could hope for the arrival of the summer birds, to allow us to add some iresh meal to our diet. We had taken but three foxes and two hares in flu whole month ; which, as food, amounted to nothing. At the end of it, after all the changes that hud taken place under the gales, the ice was so rough that it was impassable on sledges. and even on foot. No aurora borealis had been seen; and, indeed, we had scarcely__noticed one the whole winter. We were indeed all very weary of this miserable home. It had been a welcome one when we lirst reached it ; because if was a con- trast to what had been much worse. It had received us, fatigued, shelterless, and half-starved, and it at least promised us comparative pence and rest. But the novelty of this feeling luid long been worn out; and, for a long time now, the d^ys hatl been almost withoni variation or mark; each duller than its predeces.sor, and (he night returning only to tell us (hat another such dav would come (n- morrow. Even the storms were without variety, amid this eternal sameness of snow and ice : there was nothing to see out of doors, even when we could fare (he sky; and, within, if was fo look, •qually, lor variety and employment, and to find neither. If thow of the least active minds dozed away (heir time m the waking stupe- laction which such a state of things produces, ihey were the nnihi fortuna(e of the p.Trfy. Those among us, who had the enviable talent of sleeping at all times, whether they were anxious or not, fared h«'s(. That many wishes were turned towards our own Knglish home, cAnnot be diiuhlod : but it w as unreasonable to indulge regret where there was nolhiugof which we could accuse ourselves; and tli"v who iMiMMi lorward, could feel (hat (here was enough of exertion neforc WMI to dptiijtnd nil llii>ii- ir,iiii>ii nt.A .It lo.iut !.<>...» .n........U 4.. _._!..:.. -,„..... , j„- --...~ii-^i. itr Slim.T!;: tbMC spirKs till (lie time shoidd come (o bring them into aefiou. TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^.j^ Anodier month would n:»ss in al : and, in the evening, another of the former appro'»chiii{; the house, was killed. It had been al our flagstaff, which it had pulled down; and having found and eaten some bread, this was discovered on opening its stomach, which contained nothing else. TO THE ARCTIC REGii^ v^ 410 lirse dep,,,, and u,t .ha'„d"'r„:et f r'™' "' '""" '•> "'^ jo,.™';' l'„;;ael;„:;tr„'f U^;""-! »" ">e8»'l..a„o.„e,. ihe boals. On (he 30111.1,.! P'Ws.ons a( ll,e place of -^no..,: a„d;ir;,!XT.o~e^i:dr Zn^t The last month was, on the wIioIp n,:M u ■ -'«" minus, no,, higher ihan 9"'*' and'lhr" """ ''"' ""■" wa. min„, 4-, being /onr degree/at™ That a. pf," .rP"'"'"™ »-. above .ha. a. Vio.„.Aa,.hon J„%tLl';:'n.tec £ were thus eight miles, or a quarter of hn!?. ^'^T^^^-^ ^"'^ wards the place of the boats Tn^ttvblv ThTt'' "^'T''^ ''- them onwards to that depot was calcula^pH ( k ^'"«f Portat.on of the next month, because the pSs woJw b. T!.'' '"^"^h for ^ame ground eight times so as to ^li ''^,.*^°"'P«"«d to travel the The fat of the bearTXh Te ,1 r , .' ^"''"'' ^^^ ™''««- moment to our fuePas f^^.e skins h,dn^^'^ '""' "'! '^^^'^'^'^ ^^ ^«^"«^ had been killed ; but no a snow hl^l .''7" ''"'"''• *^'^« S'«"«e '^'^ "»"«•• power that wc^ad'aUoSard ' xl"^^^^^^^^^ ::!'""'" ^'^ ""'^ the surphis that might lemiin wifh ..! *''^,J"^*'«^"^ arrangements, short time would Zj^Tl n\ ^'^^ '' "^''''^'■^^«' «"d ^ whereas, had this la^L^M^ x^or 'itrXeTlr ^^ ^•^;' ^ Kcnerally, uniSri:^, -llXS ^^ t nti t:'^ ' ^^^ he otherwise to a reader. was so : it cannot drift, onihe tLec?2;i„Kl .'.'Z.!;"''''''''' T"'*' """"• »»'l June 9.— The weather continued bef^pp n„ \t , came to the hut, and began to deJo^- somf s'kin! " i^u" '■' ' '''''' the one lormerly shot • when \t »^ ""'c sk'ns wjth the carcass of •■iii ■ t) : I W IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 |50 '""^^ •S" il^ II '^ i^ III 1.4 1.6 (9 "W ^> 3 ^:^* ■> r«1_ nil i: Sciences Corporation 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WIBSTIR.N.Y. MSSO (716) S73-4303 ^ \5 ,\ v ^\ :\ « ^ •««)" ^. fc Lcedy embarkation, and (tf an uiiimato escape from the miserable abode < in all V Som since n me, on (he tini' »ne, an officers, for the ! inclinati wards ti was a fa be sacrll forward existence plishmen as I hav( liave res( nursed a cumbran destined regarded may hav( when the those ver when the by those «o far ha' which ma to the bitt neighbour minds, th( such incor did risk, i experience it was pre eumstancei British olli man ought such a les lluenre tlio or who an men; in tli The win TO THE ARCTIC UUGIONS. .,-,.{ .in^r™'' ^'^l''" numerous persons with whom I have conversed Mnce my return, on the history of our voyage, have surestT ! ".e on this sulyect, a remark which I, assL'd y, d^S notmake It .e tune and should not have made now. It eeiinly nevU struck me, and am sure it did not enter into the thoughtsVone o mv officers, that we had ever done, or were now doing, aught loll for tj.e s.ck men of our crew than was our duty, and notles. o.^h •nchnation. Undoubtedly, it was a very heavy Zur to ea.S Z wards these sick and enfeebled men, encumlLed as we wefe i"t was a far more ser.ous matter, when even the lives of the able miKl forvyard the prov.s.ons and accomn.odations necessary to our own existence, and what is still mo.e, were indispensable to the accom phslunent of our ultimate hopes, a return to England It wlaZ as I have smce been told, a great sacrifice of our own coXts to have reserved our best and most delicate food for the sick To hi vo nnrsed and tended those who had ceased to be aught but' In en cumbrance, and of whom, some, as we full well knew, wore no destmcd to survive. That may be very !rue: 1 believi U at a rega^lcd ourselres we did wro^g ; it is^ible tha sS no?i,n: may have occurred to me for a moment or two since my retun, wh n the mgratitude and obloquy which I have experieniit^ .' U.ose very persons m particular has vexed me ; and I believe a Tv I t "'7 f *'" T'^ "' '^'' '^''^'^^ »'- been reSd o ne by those friends, I may have sometimes wondered why we shouW HO ar ,.,,, d.frered; little willing as 1 am to renu-^be^ any th ng which may make human nature appear in an evil lit',, JinlTi ^te bitter feeling which Englanll' too on:^::::^::: Z^:t neighbour. But m spite of all that might then have o -curred o o r nnnds, though I cannot recollect that it did once occur mliuo of «lul risk, and n spitc „( the ingratitude, which I much fear I have lycperienced where I ought not, 1 imagine that I did no m r l' ,t .t was proper to do, and which I should do again in the sai e d cunstances: yet is this not boasting, since I'nm sure th eve v British officer would do the same, as I know that every (l.r sUan man ought, ,„ a„y situation. If it is true that I'rance rea I ^^^ "," m^nce those ",-ho have not in their hearts the inclination to M) VOYAGE <»K DlSC(tVKUV ol July, but geneiully cold, with snow and sleet, while the ihcmio- ineter at iiiglit scarcely ever rose above the freezing point. Our preserved meat was expended ; and we liad lierc, now, no other fresh animal food than what we could procure by our guns; which was not much as yet, since i( consisted but of a few ducks and dovekies. Some spare grates were made for the house, and the roof was repaired and strengthened, in case we should be obliged to return to it for the ensuing winter; though somewhat ut a loss to ' know how we were to subsist under such an unfortunate event. A quantity of flannel cartridges were given to the ituni for re- pairing their clothes before encountering the journey to Hatty bay. An avalanche of ice from tlie cliffs, intermixed with rocks and water, was a novel sight, and, in this dearth of events, would iiave been inleresfing, even had it been far less splendid as a spectacle. Tailing into the sea, it carried all before it ; breaking the fhu ice to a great distance, and showing us, had that been now necessary, the manner in which the icebergs are sometimes found to be covered with fragments of rocli and layers of earth. So many of my countrymen have now seen the avalanches of the Alps, and so many more have read of tho.se, in prose .tnd in poetry, as there arc some who can never forget the splendid picture of Loutherbourg on this subject, that any attempt on my part Ut «lescribe such an occurrence as this must be superllm)us, as it can- not fail to be feeble. Yet there was a variety in this, which, could I adequately describe it, in even the nest prose, or represent it in the meanesi drawing, would nc to strike even those who liave w itnessed what Switzerland can snow. It was not the snow ball, gigantic as that maybe, detaching itself from the mountain summit, gaining in magnitude as in velocity during its progress, and then thundering down an irregular declivity, sliding, b(uinding, and breaking, till it had safrly lodged itself in the valley below, or in the lietl of a t«_)mmt; there perchance to obstriujt a stream, be scattered over a plain, or, if e\cu overwhelming a cottage to fall into repose >mong the ice that had received it. Here, all was as inslantaneous as It was unexpected. The icy mountain that had towered over our heads so lonu,, was gone before we could say. Heboid, l)e aware : the instant of its motion was that of its descent, and before it seemed lo have <()mmcnced that descent, it had plunged into thv .sea : no, nol into a sea of water, but a sea of ice; breaking up thos(» ghissy fields which had so long biiund us in, as if inde«!d they were but a feeble mirror; scattering their fragments far and wide, with a noi.ie exceeoing thunder, and pndouged even like the reverberations of (he thunderbolt, until all .settled again info (he dead ami icy .stillness of Its formei- repo.se ; yet to leave that new mountain in' the waves, a record ol this culuslropjie, as long us record coid«l f»o of those TO THE AIICTIC HECIONS. l.>.) «.ounlaiflswhicli the sun would eie long melt, and ihc wind. Hoal oil to other and far distant regions. July 6.-The shooting of fifty dovekies this day gave the men a good Sundays dinner; and the last divine service we trusted ever to attend .n this house was performed. It was the commencement o» a larewel whicli all hoped would he eternal ; but every one must answer or the lee lings under which he, for the expected last time, repeated the Lords prayer, and heard himself dismissed in thos.- words which pronuse, to those who deserve it, that peace which passes all understanding. I trust there were few who did not re- collect to return their own private thanksgiving for so long a pre- servation amid such dangers and privations, and who did not put u„ their own prayers for help in the great undertaking now impending, on the success or failure of which must (urn the event of life or death to all. July 8.— On Monday, every thing was ready, and we too weir as prepared as we were anxious to quit this dreary place, as w" hoped, for ever. Yet, with those hopes, there were mingled manv lears ; enough to render it still but too doubtful in all our mind"s whether we might not yet be compelled to return ; (o return once more to despair, and, perhaps, to return but to die. To have been able, con( lently, to say, Adieu for ever! would have been indeed to render this a delightful parting ; when even the shellcr which we had received was insufficient to balance all the miseries winch we had suffered; miseries to have extinguished every sense of regret that we could have felt in pronouncing those two words which. It IS said, have never yet, under any circumstances, been pro- nounced without pain. This may be true ; I almost believe that it would have been (rue even in our case, though in parting from our miserable winter house of timber and snow, we left nothing behind us but misery and the recollection of misery ; since, in the comparison with what might have been, it was, heaven knows, a shelter from evils far greater, from death itself; and, such home as It was, a Home ; that strange entity from which man never parts bad as It may be, without reluctance, and never leaves but with some' strange longing to see it again. But true as may be the pain of an adieu, or the fancy of leaving for ever a home, or true as may be, reversely, the pleasure of quitting for ever the scene of past niiseries neither the pleasure nor the pain was ours. Scarcely the feeling of a farewell, for hope or regret, for pain or for pleasure was in any mind, when we coldly departed in (he evening wi(h our tiree sledges, to encounter such fate as Providcnpe might have in store lor us. The sick, who fonucd our great diiiicnlly, hore the first ioiirne' well, and we reached our first station before mid-day. It was u 25G SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY . P 8 ^f :, [n the afternoon, at three, we proceeded aga n, will, .nfin.te toil through nearly impassable ways which wore re doro mored.fncult to us by the eare which the sick required: and s £ was the labour that even here, and at night, L were oh ged o July 1 0.— We recommenced with all the baggage, labouring throuKh ways as bad, or worse, under a sun that was occasionally very hot • and at nme, reached the third position, at the cascade, which was now pourmgdownahundantly into apool filled with kitti wakes; where H^ procured some sorrel. We found that the bears had upset a cask full of skms which we had left he-, but they could not con- trive to open it. «J"'^V"~;^" '*''' "'''^* ^«y ^e brought forward the sick, whom we could not move together with the baggage, and then proceeded Lr ^'"•'^P:'''^'""' i*''^'- a yc'7 fatiguing journey, backwards and forwards ol twenty-four miles. We had lately' ohluincd a good supply of dovek.es, and could now afford every one a good asm'o ?nV.r "^ """'r' '"''. T'^'^'y ^''*'" ««''^*«'^We, emaciated labour. In the afternoon, the road on the shore bcina bctttcr we contrived to take most of our stores, the sick included : but it 'was not, mally, till alter many dilficulties in avoiding and traversing bad " wit" Vr ?:f '^u ""'''' •" ^'''y •'^y' '' «'«ht in the morning We found that the bears and foxes had committed considerable depiedations on our stores, by destroying a cask of bread, some oil, and some sugar and also all the leather shoes and boots they could we kil^ r^'^'r"" '''^ '''^ """' ""^ '•'" '^"^^'''"^ »»«'"» numerous, er was now 48 : ,t was a great revolution in the weather, and it had been a sudden one; unexpected, but not undue. Two light sledges pJvoL n"""? ; T "" '"'^. ''""«" *'"'^'' ^•^ '»«'' been obliged to 'eave at the last place, together with some sorrel for the sick ; while we obtamed thirty dovekies. July It —Sunday was made a day of rest. They who walked found the land quite destitute , f vegetation, and a considerabro Hve running into the head of the bay. On the folh.wing day the ice wa examined from the hills, but was not yet breaking in tin, ofli.^Mhe wea her being calm and line, but sometimes foggy The men were employed m repairing the boats, and in preparations f Aug. 27. — On conversing with Captain Humphreys this morn- ing, I found that he had taken twenty-seven iish, which was but two-tliirdsof a cargo, and thht he purposed yet to remain out for some time. The Isabella had gone up Prince Regent's inlet, as far as Mount Sherrar, followed by the William Lee, which was the vessel that we had seen, and was now insight; while we intended to send on board of her a part of our crew. He had made a bold attempt to cross Prince Regent's inlet to Leopold's islands, in hopes of finding some traces of us, rather than ourselves ; but had been stopped at about two-thirds of the way, by a field of ice. He had run along the edge of this on the day before we crossed, and it was in this manner that we had missed him ; while it was on his return that we met, after he had examined the eastern shore for us in vain. Tiiat he had not noticed our boats, though he had seen them, arose from his having mistaken them for those of the William Lee. Being desirous to leave, at Possession bay, a notice to any vessel which might land there in search of us, as also to verify my chro- nometer, I was landed for these purposes; and, after burying a bottle, with a state of the facts, at the same cairn which we had built in 1818, wo returned on board and bore up. Before noon, keeping on the outside of the land ice, we had rounded Cape Craham Moore ; and, after some considerable dillicuUics among the lloating pieces and the icebergs, attained a place of safely, though continuing beset. On Sunday, divine service was performed ; giving us a now arture — Arrival TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ... 465 public opportunilv ol' offflrln./ n.... o m o, i, vis"l '^' "''' of whalers on tho welcome us ; and Zso ,nTl '| ", T''" 'r' «" ''««''J '« brought us prcsen Jnl' ,' i< ;. il'^"^ '" •"^''*'"'-' and as thankfully received ""*^'*' '^'"«f' were very acceptable, •ny voyage in 1818 TZn" ^I^P!!"^'"'' ^'■«'" '*'««''«'•'« of by an obs'ervod dlibrc.ue . lil'ud ""'f m'I ?1^ '^'^^'^"' «"^' former observation^ 1^„. . 1 ? ^, ^' l''''f ^''^ ^''^ ""tb «f my lain Humphreys and n .t ?. "r '^ t '''''^ tbc judgment ofCap- I resurveyed the'coas, « h ' ^V^?l' '''^''''^' ^' ««"«'-J«d '"e, the intention of pS h'inJ ''''"* 'V^' 1?*^^ '^"^ '"'«^«5 ^vitl important by ^ISS,';:? n':).^.?"' ''""' '' ' ^"-« '-"--d so longer'in those seaHTh^^C^^^^^ "'• '•"""'" '""«'" Long Hope Tom \;.|,:)k" T' ''"""r*^ "" ^''^ two' next a the "umbero^n the 18tl^^ ami n. '';•". '''^''"'•' ^^'« ••«««hed the .steam.boat. ' ""'' '""'•^•''''^'' '" """ '» ";"'!« »f •- we arrived on tho MM, H*....' I , . ' '^"'"'on, where Ibe Secretary of the Ad,„i J """"-''"," "'y '•^P0'<«*« myself to n^solf to be ;res;^;e;^tH''C :: {^X: :---«; --' mission Co ilfilii-alc ,,,v i„i,r„„l ,. 7" ' i«iving pcr- wiiii»m>i,„i.- ;, z,,';';;;;;|,.,';;,.'i;:,;''"'' "■ «*' "- -".oof ig us a now On 111 •o repai at the l'< I'ole. I i always 1 jierniissi on my c of tlie Ij lettpr ( a of the U ralty, wi The V( and men with regj Cahinet; Majesty't to l^ost ( Mr. M'Di rccompei liberality ha "■•""^'lia'-'ly granted mo on my ehart at the Magnetic Po and comm\m>n i"'''" ,"' V^'"" ^^'^"''>- ''"^ *'"*^''". of the Royal Family and the reil^ , ^ fi "' ■ '^ P''"^^" '"''"""^ '' ""e names letter ( app'ended ) vfa^ re d at 'KZiX^^ Majesty's Government eo si 1. ri iV.i ^ •'' "'"'"* '"I'mated to me, that "His .0 t-ost^-aptai'. the pStn TVr M "•'■"y -q-hew from Commander Mr.M'Diarmid to Surgeoranr/he n-.vm.n* T k° "'^ ^•'"''P"«. the promotion of recompense tome, and thai no h ,«.nri,.i [^^ ''"S'' ^^ "■<• ^rew, a snllidenl liberality of Government i "3X1 2 "'•'''' *''"'"" "^ '"^■- " "''I'eudingontho had been proposed Ibr \l e rcm^^at on of mv^l ""^ "'"^ .""'"'•■■■iptions' which had been s..bscribed at I'ymomh was ?rithr,7 ^T^f'T^ "" «'"«''«'"" "''i«-h relatives of th.Mnen who S L n^p "^t ,/' " '^e widows and no alternative but to apply to P^H a me^ • a/.^ Z l'«''-' "!' "'" ^"y"''"'' > ^ad the House of Comn.o.ls .,y the K LhtHo,; •.y,';','''""'^ '"^'" '"'""S'" •"'•■'"•« the 17th of March, when, for the i st '. m ' '■'•g''s«""- "as discussed on undertaking this enlerpri e w^s to recover a l^', IZ'Tr^'"' l'. "■■"' "'"''''"'""' '">' ..a.ely for me, submitted to a Sdect Comn.it ee nr"^^ "'u" '^'^ »««« «««. fortn- had before this high tribunal »,Z^nL, I 7 "^ "'*' ""'""' "< Commons, and I Industriously circLlJte /""„:" J' r"";^,^'''''''!''^ ^""""""'^ -hioh had bein conduct on the former exSt orh.d bee,, n "^ ''r'""'"''"'^ ''^"'''"'••^ 'hat my appear by the following exfract'l" I't'S Tonh C om.: i;;;"'"'^""^ ' '^ -'' for a court-martial on my c m.lu ni wa J^.^'T'^/'m"?"'"""""^ ' «PI'"-'' reivf.l my promotion, a,ul the o,^ ,'.„", ;r„a,^' ^"^ '^'''''""' ">"' ' had re- f will rea.l : '" ' '""" ''"'"•' '^'"■'^"l«' *" Proof of that fact, which " ' I entertain no doubt whatever frnni ii.. „«„. 1 • from reference (o the .lates o lounrrn imMo';ir'''"r?:""""'y "lind , and Caplain, and to your employment ,K,^,^'^^^^ «•"' "^ .n ISIH was in n.use.iue.lceolTorrrse . /r.''"'.:'"' '>'' ^,"'"' •^"'"-"'""i"" nn commander of the Isabella hi,«.,.„ '■"'''•''' hand, if your conduct a.s^ed,y y.. won.,1 no, i^iv'^'b!::; .;z,;drr'!n::.^'..'!":,^:'s^"^'^ ^' •\h:th js rMi.ittcil Ironi 1 4KH ADDENDA. The Select Committee consisted of- Mr. Ciitlar Fcrgussoii Sir lloliert Peel Sir Kobcrt Inglis Sir James Graham Mr. Hutt Mr. Agiionby Mr. Chapman Sir Henry Hardinge Sir Edward Codrington Mr- William Gladiiloiic Mr. Ewart Mr. Baiinermanu Sir Andrew Agitcvv Mr. Edward Stewart Mr. George Robinson Mr. Warburton Lord Dudley Stuart Mr. Stuart Mackenzie Mr. Pon Talbot Mr, Hrothcrlon Mr. KmiTMon Teniieni Mr. (J. V. Young Mr. Hughes Hughes Lord Viscdiuit .Sandon Mr. Ijaboucbcrj Mr. O'Connell .iM'"trfll2r:^;rb':'^^z;:;/" ""•' •' •'''"«"'•• ''""«'•" " «-"-•«' -• ItEPOUT. Your Commmee have not Celt themselves either talit-.l ii|.<.n by their order nl reference or competent to give a.i opinion on the precise nieriJ. or e»(ent "nie ■scoveries ma.le durnig the c.spcdition commanded hy llaptain John Rtw« wl e I her in a geographical or scientilic point of view ; they have Iherrlbre coiiBned themselves to sucL a general investigation into the facts, as may .nllirr lb? a de- cis.on on the main .,uestion committed to their han.te, whether a„y reward should be allotted from the public pi-rse, and to whom that rcwar.l in dlio ,(imalSd'bv'"!:!;."'i .'•":« '".'•'"''"^ '^'^ '""1 •'*'''' '" ""' >«"'• •"•-^'.'^•■'Ptnin Ross, slimulated by the desire o( securing to (!.is country the honour oCspttlinc the long-ag.tated ,,ue.st.o« o a North-wes. Passage,, proposed first to I i S^y's Ooverumen , and, on their .leclining to undertake it, to his (Wend' Mr Felix Booh, to ht out an expedition lor that purpose; that in the follow! g year Sr Bootl,, Imding that the Act l,y which a parliamentary reward was held o it Ibr iiSMo,-' ^"'"'-r' 'T"'^*""*' l'-«»''«--P-"l'".""d thatno susdcion of inte e.ted uiotives could any longer rest upon the undertaking, " h viL no other ol.jec in v.ew than the advanco.nenl of the ho r <.f his co in.ry atid th • 0fSnMin1,r'-'''''' •"'",'" KH-tify the feelings of a friemi, •- iinn.ediately agreed Caplaiii I OSS s proposition, on condition that his coi xion with Ihc .^iter- .'wo't-n:ui.ir:\ '-■.'""'' ^rw "v" -:-"'""«'y. wi«i.th.M.cep,ioi; if 1,,, two tuousaml po. .ids ex|.e.ided by Captain Ross. Mr. Booth did actually bear .dl the charges ol the ..xpedition, (o the amount of belwcei. si've ' ei, i eigheen thousand pounds .that Captain Ross, being lell by Mr. Booth at lib tu '.lonT'sciS':"' "••''''•'""■'' "' ^":''""l'-"'y •»"•• r^.<.i..d\Tntuilous o'Cs 'f m ^' ^^ '""' ■""'"'"'"•^'•. "• '<".V capacity, (n hose diminuuislied 01 leers. Captains Back and Hop, r. ...fers c',iialiV credital o ( ' , ,^11 ss an.l to the spint ol those v>ho made them; nut (Inally selected i? m.Icw miiits, who had been employed i!i every previous expeditmn lo the Arctic Seas ami having engajjed Mr. Thorn as purser, who. as 'well as Coininai le • Ro s' agreed to go without pay, ; Mr M'Diainiid as surgeon, CoKelI.er «th« '"ru o nineteen men, saihd Iron. Kngland in May, IH«.. : Fhal ins,., I 'mi in s ««;•;:„:' »''•"'•'• "'•"'' ''r' '•••••" ;">^^'«"'' •" -•• i •'..". wi.h pro' visions, t .iptaii Ross persevered, in leliamT on lindiiig the Niiimlies uhich •)l hulltnng^, ,i| dangers ami discoveries, for ,i sHuimary of vvlii.b vour Com Sr;.ro,b'''B ''•'', "rr; "• l'^ ""'""*"^ I.Hcr,.ddre Ihv hi toX necrpl.iry nl the Board ol Admiralty ADDENDA. Iti'CordM, and I 46» loabellaofHull, Bajfiris Bay, September, 1833. Sir , **" '•"•"J 'he IsabeUa ol 1 lull, Bairui's Bay Knnu/inr, I I . ncptcmlier 1833. ./r7he« a':rv:„S£ "i^. t:ii;if ssr i' •""' ^'"-'"•♦^ «- '--.. .ue.a oC geography, I have to aejuain you t^ .hi mUmUv\y i„ ,he improve- ^ilups, that the expedition, the maTohrect of whl^ °'^'^°^"'' ''^•''•- I-"^^^ question of a North-west Passage rromti.il.^V''^'^*^'' "" P«''«i'>»e the l^'ry l.y Prince Regent's Inletr mil wh -h ailP.V *''« P»«fi« <>'ean, particn- commenced, and keeping the westeTshorp I ^' '*''*"'''' ""'" "^^ «liscoveries as. VV. cour.se. in from ten to tw n ,y tthom ." r, '^■Y'''. '''" *'''^" "'« «°««' i" li' north in longitude 9Jo west h"rc we Zn!/ '*^'''■"' P""**''' »•»« 'a^tuJe ol vyestvvard, the Ixamination of Nvl ch occuTed '1^^,"'"'"'"^ "'"^ '^^^'"""e '« ««« first seriously ohstructed hy ice, hich wa«l ?"' '■" '•»" P'="^« ^e were (> of the inlet, in a solid ma .roi,w\^^^^^ from the South tins circumstance, the shallown;.s of ,hc wafer thn T^- T' "J ^ ^- ^- "^'"S '« pestuous weather, the irregularity of he ro4t,,wl.?'''^ "' "^ *"'*•'' "'«' t^'"" for which It is remarkal.Ie, our proLress w^« ' ^ the numerous inlets aiwl rocks, we succeeded in penetrating eloT^e S,r, '^'!.''''"«r''"'''' "'»" "^<"""''' >'« where the Im.d, after havinj cari"^| S, as far 1 iS?''^ 'I' '""Sit-'e 9-Zo west, direction, while land at the distance of fowvnfii ' '*^' ' "**'' *• ''''••='«''•'' westerlj; ••■■•St and west. At this extreme r.hito.r'"-^^^^^^ '« southv^ard, was seen trending """npenetrahle harrier of ice. X hoL' ' ??' T ••"•'••^'"•^'' "■' l«t October by vvb.ch we named Felix Harbour ' '^^""'* *" ^'^•=*"'«^'" wintering port, .oS^!u;''a'StSr^;:ujts:!:K'" •""«-• ""'' was connected to the Miuth V < o r dJew h;\K\^"''J'''.>*'^''' "'<' ""^ «»« land •" laking into account a rhain of fresl X, .. '♦^'' '1'\'* '"^ ""'''' "' '"••■adlh ; l>t: woen (he dry |a„d, which a. "vr Connnander Ross pr„cee,l.-d ,ni„u • ly to.^i^'T''^^ "'""'' ^y '">•«•"■. «'"■" o 1.0 is.hn.ns leading to (he S... "l vv lilch , '' "'" "l"".' '" '*"' «"»""vard 'J'Jlh degrei!, or lo ilo miles „,■,.".;.'"'"''.'"••""•"■*'<'«■'" in tracing to ih(- 'he land, after leading li. .,,' i,TT"' "'" ..'■"'•^""*'"'. '"which .Ji ',"ast or that to ,|„, „„,, ,„■ ,1,,. is, 1 ,! V '' ,•*" I'"''''* "'■ "'" adjacent Ins veasou «as,v ye,| in Lacing th.,.r . '"■■■'""" a gulf. The rest ol T! ill.". -.l!;r.!ii , !l for iwvigatiun, md r.'; in.i! ,if Isis position. wiiiled with ..n\i.(y („r th„ ,| our objed liimg mow lo (ri 'fMi.liliilly liui, l,ul . v( iiNnijilMin ol (he • iimly inn,i\oui,iM( it nioif iiniihrrn lalltiide, we 'Mir utmost '" I'lil in vain, and 470 ADDENDA. wal'^ot nntiUhl 'r\ ri"'T^ "' '?*"•='"» ""■■ "^'^P* """•" "'"" '■""'• '»"^'''. «'"» " was not until the middle ol November, that we succeeded in cutting the venscl into a place oi security, which we named « Sheriffs Harbour." I may here mention lir.u'^lu ^^^ "e^v'y tl's«;overed continent, to the southward, " Hoothia," as also the isthmus, the peninsula to the north, and the eastern sea, alter my worlhy iriend, telix Booth, Esq., the truly patriotic citizen of London, who, in the most uisinterested manner, enabled me to equip this expedition in a superior style. I he last winter was in temperature nearly equal to the means of what had been experienced on the four preceding voyages, hut the winters of ISUO and 1S3I set in with a degree of violence hitherto beyord record, the thermometer sank to 92* below the Ireezing point, and the aver.".ge of the year was !()• below the prc- cerling ; but notwithstanding the severity of the summer, we travelled across the country to the West Sea, by a chain of lakes, 30 miles north of the islhinus. ^ .1" i;?"'w ^ ^,'' I*"'" ^"•■*"''*''*'' '" surveying 50 miles more of the const lead iim to the N. U . and, by tracing the shore to the northward of our position, it was also lully proved that there could be no passage below the 71st degree. Ihis autumn we succeeded in getting the vessel only 14 miles to the northward, and as we had not doubled the Eastern Cape, all hopes of saving the ship was at an end, and put quite beyond possibility by another ve,y severe winter, and liavini; «nly provisions to last us to June I, 1832, dispositions were accordingly made to leave the ship in her present port, which (after her) was named " Victory Harbour "• ^rVttioT't^ '""*'.,'"'' u^' '''"■"'''' '■"'^^^'•'' "' tl'e spring, we left the ship on May vu, I83i for Fury Beach, being the only chance left of saving our lives' Owin^ to the vory rugged nature of the ice, we were obliged to keep either upon or close 10 tiie land, making the circuit of every bay, thus increasing oiir distance of 200 Zt\^ 11 """ !•?""• "'"• " ^^^ ""* ""t'l •'"'y 1 *hat we reached the beach, completely exhausted by hunger and fatigue. «fl*.!'"'i.'*'''^''''^'"'''^ eonstructed, and the boats, three of which liad been washed on me ijeach, but providentially driven on shore again, were repaired during inis month; but the unusual heavy appearance of the ice alU.rded us nocheering prospect until August 1, when in three boats we reached the ill-fated spot where To *"'y ^^'"1 ."'^' ''"^•■" "" sho'"'^. an„ ^f .i ■ , merits of Commander Ross, who was "Loml ^n II v ^ ■^''"' l'0''''«''ips to the The labours of this officer, who Ld the departmel nfT'/"" °^'^''' '^P^'^Mon. tory, and Surveying, will speak for themS, Tim' "1 'i''""'"^' ^'■""'■'■'' •"»- ray pen, but they will be duly app LiS bV heir "t?.?? r^^^ ^''"'•y "I" bodies of which he is a member, and who are alreadJ' w.ii ''*' '"•' ""' "^"'•"'"' acquirements. «-"" -re already well actiuainted with hlfi My steady and faithftjl friend, Mr. William Tliom nc fi.o o . », formerly with me in the Isabella, besides hr.hl.v.^'.hLi ""^" ^"^^^ ^^o was of the Meteorological Journal ; the distrib i io 'an c^no.'".: of oro" •'••"''"' '''''^" his judicious plans and suMestions must be attr ...fn?! ?I " ""^ Pi^o^'sions, and to health which our crew enjo^d ; an^T 1 on mL h '''''°'!''"''" '^'^"'^ "'' and a half years, were cut o'f early i.i the voyage l it er'n^^ '7' ""' '"'"• climate, only one man can he said to have peHshed '""'"'""' '° ""' _ Mr. M'Diarmid, the surgeon, who had been several vova„o» »„ .i, justice to the high recommen.lation I received of SiK. "'^'^ ''.^eious, did amputation and operation which he perfome ( LnTwo llr ii'"'"''!''"' '" '^^"y raent of the sick; and I have no heCn in «d.MnJ.f' f""^ '" '" '•'^ *''«'•''«- ivent to His Majesty's service. ''*'""'"°" '" '"'•''"8. ole. The importance, especially to a maritime nation, of this discovery, and ol' thp observations connected with magnetic science, arising thereout, is most highly esti- mated by the scientific witnesses who have been examined, anri is further attested by the zeal with VThich this branch of science has been of late pursued by eminent men m every country, and by the expense which several foreign governments have of late years incurred for the same object. Under these circumstances your Committee ran have no hesitation in reportine that a great public service has been performed. IndependenUy of the demonstra- tion that one passage, which had been considered by preceding navigators to be one of the most likely to lead from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, does not exist, thus narrowing the field for future expeditions, if such should ever be undertaken • in- dependently of the addition of between six and seven hundred miles of coast to'oui geographical knowledge, and of the valuable additions to magnetic science and meteorology, which this expedition will supply, your Committee cannot overlook the public service which is rendered lo a maritime country, especially in time ol peace, by deeds of daring entcrjirise and patient endurance of hardship, which excite the public sympathy and enlist the general feeling in favour of maritime adventure Of this result they have strong evidence in the national subscription which furnished the funds for the expedition of Captain Back, in search of Captain Ross and hi" gallant party, to which the Government also contributed 2000/. To the importance of these considerations, your Committee are happy to have to report that His Majesty's Government has not been insensible. Although Captain Ross's expedition was undertaken entirely on private risk, and the Board of Ad rairalty could not therefore be held responsible for any liabilities incurred, or be called upon in strictness to notice in any way the services of the individuals en- gaged in It, yet, as far as the power of the Admiralty extends, none of these services has gone unnoticed or unrewarded. It appears from a memorandum delivered in to your Committee liy the \ or five Ibouiand pounds be voted to Captaiu and yourCom^ittee beg to ~nSa' i ' ..Vu" Si^^^^^^^ Oovernraent, after due inveslisalio,, „C tl.e lactH, may iem lit ' " '^^'^'''^ " ^'''■''' *^^'- I'O"^ VISCOUNT SANDON, C/S«.,„,„„ J may here mention that «o subscription has ever been received by me for my own APPENDIX, No. I. Copy of a Letter from Captain John Bo.,, R. N., to Captain lAe Ho Elhot, C. B. dated October 'i'i, 1833. George „. _, Portland Hotel, Oct. 22, 1833. .ub..rn,„, whereby 1 ™isbL.aic\hr;;v:„rrr"wX:v^^^^^^ I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient Servant, (%««(/) JOHN ROSS, Capt. R.N. 81 474 ADDENDA. APPENDIX, No. 2. Copynfn Letter from Mr. Barrow to Captain John Rons, H. N., dated Admiralty, October 25, 1833. Admiralty, Oct. 25, 1833. Sir, — 1 have received and laid before my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty your letter, dated on board the Isabella, of Hull, in Baffin's Bay, in September last, and I am commanded to express their Lordships' satisfaction at the providential deliverance of yourself and companions from a perilous situation, unequalled in the records of navigation, and their congratulations at your safe return. 1 am, &c. (Signed) J. BARROW. APPENDIX, No. 3. Copij of a Letter from Captain John Boss, R, N,, to Mr. Barrow, dated October 26. 1833. Portland Hotel, Oct. 26, 1833. Sir, — In consequence of a verbal communication with Sir Thomas Hardy, I have the honour to transmit for the consideration of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, a List ( see No. 5 ) of the oflTicers and men employed on the late expedi- tion to the Arctic Seas, showing the pay due to each on the principle that I should have felt it ray duty to act upon towards them, li^ul the discharge of those claims rested with myself, instead of being taken up l)y their Lordships, on the grounds of the public nature of the service to which the object of the expedition was directed; and I have reason to know that the ofTicers and men will consider themselves fully recompensed by the proposed scale' =' Alwrnelhie t;^imhain Thomas George Taylor . . AleianrterBriinlon Barnry tachey I David Wood . ' I James Dixon George liaxlor . ' APPENDIX. No. 5. h Aamiralty Order", Octob^," 2G, I833. REMARKS. ^ __l^_^_2_y^^^raHy Order, Octobe - Siii'Roon . . M/iht , . \ '"''iman . D.llo . . • • •^•■'■"iKllSiigiiicor; Ariiititirrr, '<«imi«n . ' ' nitio . • Ditto . . I • t'aiPfntfrS Mate (mik ... Mull' . , . " '''H'ticnlpr. ,' ' Mine , _ _ ■ j-'ii'sl Ungllipor ." Miiilniait , , Noniiiim , . * Iiindmnn . . ' OiUo . ' t' *• rf 818 18 3 172 14 8 3^5 9 4 171 10 1V7 9 lOa 18 8 afi 18 126 17 125 17 US 7 lt6 9 ICS 2 „ 329 14 8 2U6 10 8, 329 9 4 017 IJ 121 ;a , 121 11 . 89 8 I 121 11 5680 12 5^1 ^ost Ills eye-sight. S!''»™«ft"l"s friends. Oied on the viiyage. Made Gunner H.N Ditto. BelMntd to his friend). Died soon alter his return. DL"d"o?tt''474"''"""^""-r"'n. "e'l^raedlohislamily. Coast Guard Service. Kelurned to his friends. JJied on the voyage. Hetnrned to his friends. {Skned) .1. T. BRIGG& Translation ^ th. Es,ui„,au. Hym,,, ,,,, ,1. 0^' OUR KING. TiiM.-^Nwllunakau tohovihsara. 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