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In Two Vols., post Svoy price 21s., MY DIAKY NOETH AND SOUTH. OH, PERSONAL EXPERIENCES OF THE CIVIL WAR IN AMERICA. " The latter part of Mr. Russell's Diary is probably droller than any- thing which onr theatrical wits will produce this Christmas. We regret especially that we have no space for the story respecting the President, on page 372 of the second volume. The United States have been a vast burlesque on the functions of national existence, and it was Mr. Russell's fate to behold their transformation scene, and to see the first tumbles of th"ir clowns and pantaloons. It was time for hira to come away, though the shame of his retirement was tlieirs. He did his duty while he wa.s with them, and he has left them a legacy in this ' Diary.' " — Times. A TFTI CANADA; ITS DEFENCES, CONDITION, AND EESOUKCES. BEING A TFIIRD ANTD CONCLUDING VOLUME OF "MY DIARY, NORTH AND SOUTH." I' J AMEUIOA. iller than any- is. We regret i President, on i?e been a vast is Mr. RusselTs [irst tumbles of B away, though y while he was ''—Times. BY W. HOWARD RUSSELL, LL.D., LONDON: BRADBURY AND EVANS, 11, BOUVERIE STREET. 1865. [TAe Right of Translation is reserved."] Fc/ LONDON BRA DtlUY ANP KVASS, I'UINTKRS, WHIl KKllI.I Hft. J PREFACE. I BEGAN to write this book by way of sequel to '' My Diary North and South," with the intention of describ- ing Canada as I saw it at the close of my visit to North America, but the subject grew upon me as I went on, and at last I discarded much personal detail, and set to work with the view of calling attention to the capa- bilities of the vast regions belonging to the British Crown on the American Continent, and of pointing out the magnificent heritage which is open to our redundant population. But the subject was too great for the compass of one volume, because connected with it, too intimately to be over-looked, were the questions of the defence and of the future of countries, which the estab- lishment of a Monarchical principle on an imperfect basis, and their dependence on the Crown, exposed to the hostility of a great Repubiic. I was, therefore, obliged to contract my own experiences, small as they were, and to omit many topics included in the original scope of my writing. The book was nearly finished when suddenly, as it seemed, the whole of the Pro- VI niEFACB. vinces, yicldinf^ to a common sentiment of duup:cr, scpt tiioir delegates to consider the policy and pcssihility of a great Confederation, which had been strongly recom- mended in the pages already written. The idea of siicii a Confederation was an old one; but the prompt re- solve to carry it into practical effect, ami the words spoken and acts done in conseqnence, rendered it necessary to cancel the work of many hours, as much of what I had written would have been anticipated by what has been printed. There are many dangers inhe- rent in the nature of the proposed Confederation ; there are many obstacles to its harmonious and suc- cessful working ; but on the whole some such scheme appears to be the only practical mode of saving the British Provinces from the aggression of the North American Republicans. What is to become of the existing Governments of Provinces? How regulate the contentions which may arise between Provincial Parliaments and Provincial Ministers and Provincial Governors bv the action of the Federal Parliament and of the representative of the Crown at the seat of Government? The ditficulties we foresee may never come to pass, and others far greater, of which we have no foresight, may arise ; but for all this the Confederation presents the only means now available, as far as we can perceive, for securing to the Provinces present independence and a future political life distinct from the turbulent existence of the United States. A glance at the map will reveal the extent of 4 PRKFACR. Vll sihilitv ot » V recoin- ::i ot" suci) onipt re- lic words kIchmI it as much pated by ijcrs inhe- deration ; and suc- cli scheme lavini; the ;he North iiments of vliich mav ProviMcijtl action of ttive of the iculties we 'ar greater, but for all neans no^v ing to the ire political the United e extent of I tlu Empire which rcsls upon the jjakes with one arm on the Atlantic and the other on the Pacific, whilst its face is wrapped in a mantle of eternal snow; but it tells us no more. No reasoning man can maintain that the people whom a few years will behold as numerous as the inhabitants of these islands, will be content to live perinanently under the system of the Colonial OfHce. That system is probablj'the only one our Con- stitution permits us to adopt ; but it is nevertheless the policy, if not the duty, of this State to foster the youth and early life of the colonies we have founded, and to l)rotect them, as far as may be, from the evils which shall come upon them in consequence of their present connection with (jlreat Britain. Despised, neglected, and abandoned, the Provinces would feel less irritation against their conquerors than against their betrayers, and Etigland might regret with unavailing sorrow the indifterence which left her without a foot of land or a friend in the New World. Generosity not inconsistent with justice may yet lay the foundations of an enduring alliance where once there was only cold fealtv and unsympathising command. A powerful State may arise whose greatest citizens shall be proud to receive such honours as the Monarch of England can bestow, whose people shall vie with us in the friendly contests of couimerce, and stand side bv side with us in battle. And when the inevitable hour of separation comes, the parting will not then be in anger. A Constitutional Republic, in which Monarchy would have been pos- I II Mil I'llEFACK. II sible ])ut for tlie priulonco of the mother-country, may exist without nnv hatred of jSIoujircliv or of Euj'IjuhI : nudthe people, boru with equal rights to pursue liberty and happiness, would love the land from which flowed the sources of so nuinv substantial blessinjjrs. I hope that my apprehensions may prove ill-founded, and that the danji^ers to which our North American ])ossessions now, and England herself and the jieace of tiie world hereafter, are in my opinion exposed, may be for ever averted. WILLIAM HOWARD IlUtSSELL. Templk, January, 18()0. I" 'I CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAOB Introductory— Canada and tlic Mason and Slidell case — Threats of annexation — Defence of Canada — Reasons for visiting the Britiiih I'rovinces — lUness at Now York — Hostility di.sphiyed there — Monotony of Now Yorlc — Hotel life — *' Birds of a feather " — Nationality absorbed — Start for Canada- Railway Companions— rublic credulit)--A victory in the papers -History of "A liiK Fiijht " — Geueral rumpkia and Jetfersou lirick . . . . CHAPTER II. To the Station — Stars and Stripes— Crowd at Station — Train impeded by Snow — Classic ground — " Manhattan " — " Yonkers" — Fellow- travellers and their ways — ** Beauties of the Hudson " — West Point : their education, &c. — Large Towns on the banks of the Hudson — Arrive at K.ist Albany — Delavan House— Beds at a [)remium — Aspect of Albany not impressive — Sights — The Legis- lature ........... 17 CHAPTER III. Unpleasant journey to Niagara — Mr. Seward — The Union and its dangers — Pass Buffalo —Arrival at Niagara — A "Touter"— Bad weather — The Road- -Climate compared — Desolate appearance of houses — The St. Lawrence viewed from above — One hundred years ago — Canada the great object of the Americans — The Welland Canal — Effect of the Falls from a distance — Gradual approach — Less volume of waier in winter— Different effect and dangers in X CONTENTS. PAGE winter— Icicles — Roliind the Cataract— Photofrrnplis and Bazaar — Visit tlie " Lions " generally — Brock — American and Canadian sides contracted — Goat Island — A whisper heard— Mills and Manufactories .......... 28 CHAPTER IV. Leave Niagara -Suspension Bridge -In British territory — Hamilton City — Buildings — Pmceed eastward — Toronto — Dine at Mess — Pay visits — Public edifices — feuiglis— Amusement of the boys — Camaraderie in tl.j army — Kindly feeling displayed — Journey resumed towards Quebec —Intense cold — Snow I^ndscajie — Morning in the train — Hunger and lesser troubles -Kingston, its rise and military position — Harbour, dockyards — Its C(Uinection with the Prince of Wales' Tour — The Upper St. Lawrence — Canada as to Defence ........... 53 CHAPTER Y. Arrive at Cornwall— The St. Lawrence— Gossip on India — Aspect of the country— Montreal — The St. Lawrence Hull Hotel — Story of a Guardsman — Bnrnside— Dinner — Refuse a banquet — Flags — Climate — h character — Montreal and New York — The Kink— Sir F. Williams — Influence of the Northerners .......... 71 CHAPTER VI. Visit the "lions" of Montreal — The 47th Regiment — The city open to attack — Quay 3, public buildings — French colonisation — Rise of Montreal — Stone— A Frenci. -Anglicised city-Loyalty of Canadians — Arrival of Troops— Facings — British and American Army com- pared — Experience needed by latter — Slavery .... .S7 CHAPTER Vir. First view of Quebec — Passage of the St. Lawrence — Novel and rather alarming sit , tion — Russell's Hotel — The Falls of Montmorency, and the "Cone "—Aspect of the city— The Point— " Tarbogyining " ""■*; 'f PAOE Bazaar — Canadian AiWs and 28 -Hamilton it Mess — he boys — — Journey — Moruing 3 rise and with the lada as to -Aspect of )tel— Story ; — Flags— d English -Uneasy —Montreal lice of the 53 ity open to — Rise of Canadians Army com- CONTENTS. Description of the "Cone" — Audacity of one of my companions A Canadian dinner — Call on the Governor — Visit the Citadel — Its position — Capabilities fur defence — View from parapet — The armoury — Old muskets — Red-tape tlioughtfulness — French and English occupation of Quebec— Strength of Quebec CHAPTER VIII. XI PAOB 100 Lower Canada and Ancient France — Soldiers in Garrison at Quebec — Canadian Volunteers— The Governor-General Viscount Monck — Uniform in the United States — A Sleighing Party— Dinner and Calico Ball 121 CHAPTER IX. Canadian view of the American Struggle — English Officers in the States — My own position in the States and in Canada — The Ursu- lines in Quebec — General Montcalm — French Canadians — Imperial honours — Celts and Saxons — Salmon fishing— Early Government of Canada — I'ast and future ....... 128 CHAPTER X. 87 Canadian Hospitality — Muffins— Departure for the States — Desertions - Montreal again — Southerners in Montreal — Drill and Snow Shoes — Winter Campaigning — Snow Drifts— Military Discontent . . 148 CHAPTER XI. Extent of Canada — The Lakes— Canadian Wealth — Early History — La Salle — Border Conflicts — Early Expeditious— Invasions from New Elngland — Louisburgh and Tioonderoga — The Colonial In- surrection — Pivrtition of Canada — Progress of Upper Canada — France ami Canada — The American Invasion — Winter Campaign — New Orleans and Plaltsburgh — Peace of Ghent — Political Con- troversies — Winter Communication — Sentiments or Hon. Joseph Howe — General view of Imperial and Colonial relations . , 158 and rather ntmorency, boggiuing " CHAPTER XII. The Militia— American Intentions— Instability of the Volunteer Prin- ciple—The Drilling of Militia— The Commission of 1862— The Duke of Newcastle's Views — Militia Schemes — Volunteer Force — Apathy of the French Canadians — The first Summons .... 200 Xll CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIII. PAGE Possible clangers — Tlie future clanger — Open to attack — Canals and railways — Prolalile lines of invasion — Lines of attack and defence — London — Toronto — Defences of Kingston — Defences of Quebec . 222 CHAPTER XIV. Ra])id Increase of Population — Mineral Wealth — Cereals — Imports and Exports — Climate — Agriculture — A Settler's Life — Reciprocity Treaty— Report of the Committee of the Executive Council — Jlr. Gait — Senator Douglas — A Zollverein — Terms of the Convention — Free Trade, and what is meant by it — Mr. Gait's opinion on the subject — Canadian Imports and Exports . . . . .241 CHAPTER XV. Reciprocal Rights — American ideas of Ricijtrocity — The Ad Valorem Sysiteni — Commercial Iinprovements— Trade with America — The Ottawa Route— The Saskatchewan — Fertility of the country— Water communication — The Maritime Provinces — Area and Population . 259 li CHAPTER XVI. The " Ashburton Capitulation" — Boundaries of Quebec — Arbitration in 1831 — Lord Ashburton's Mission— The questions in dispute — "The Sea" v. "The Atlantic" — American Diplomatists — Franklin's Red Line — Compromise — The Maps— Maine — Damage to Canada — Mr. Websl.-r's Defence — His Opinion of the Road — Value of the Heights — ^Our Share of Equiv;il nts— Strategic Milue of Rouse's Point — Mr. Webster on the Inva.sion of Canada — Vermont — New Hampshire 288 CHAPTER XVir. The Acadian Confederation— Union is Strenptli— The Provinces— New Brunswick — The Ttmperature — Trade of St. John — Climate and agriculture of Nova Scotia — Newfoundland — Prince Edward Island — The Red River District— Assiniboia— The Red River Valley — Minnf'sota and the West— Tlie Hudson's l>:iy Company — Their Territory — The North-West Regions— Climate of Winnipeg Basin— The area of Winnipeg B&k'.h — Finances of the Onnfcderation — Imports, exports, and tonnage — Proposed Federal Constitution — Lessons from the American struggle . . . . • .310 PAGE anals and defence — lebec . 222 n ports and leciprocity lucil — Mr. ivention — ion on the 241 .d Viilorern eiiea — The ry — Water lukition . 259 J« \rl>itration dispute — oinatists — -Damage to )ad— Value ; ^^v1ue of — Vermont 283 nces — New limato and k'ard Island r Valley — my— Their >eg Basin — .'deration — istitution — I fi 310 ■, I '-;■/■■ p=S' N^ k CANADA: ITS DEFENCES, CONDITION, AND EESOUECES. A! CHAPTER I. Introductory — Cauada and the Mason and Slidell case — Threats of annexation — Defence of Canada — Reasons for visiting the British Provinces — Illness at New York — Hostility displayed there — Monotony of New York — Hotel life — "Birds of a Either" — Nationality absorbed — Start for Canada — Railway Companions — Public credulity — A victory in the papers — History of " A Big Fight" — General Pumpkin and Jefferson Brick. I DO not pretend to offer any new observations on the climate, soil, or capabilities of Canada, nor can I venture to call these pages a " work " on that great province. I have nothing novel to advance in the hope of attracting an immigration to its widespread territo- ries, and any statistical facts and figures I may use are accessible to all interested in the commerce or in the past, present, Jind future of the land. Nor do I write with any particular theory in view, or with any crotchet on the subject of colonies, outlying provinces, and dependencies, and their value or detri- .ment to the dominant commercial and imperial power. I My actual acquaintance with the country and the people is only such as I acquired in a few weeks' travelling B \ Snitv^ yy i'""i*gajiiij|^ri« [juiitoiiliif 7 ' utL l^iihn I. "ii.ilfu,LLa X., Wiiiit [jM . jfr^;*v^ ■©■• ^'™-' ^^^^%^/ ■ ^^^S^/v ;^ i^Ml^^jl^ - 1 ^^,Q'i- ' M.w4^ A[ffl A^W fiiijijjf... wT .•J? ■? V ' / ^ (, ' /•■ Viur ■'lv». O .X* 4^ % W(V7 _ ""iihytimit. '^'mifkf f>(Tytie (hyiii Hirfi. StifittSf, .(Hjiulii/7>~i>'*" ,VTB'- f^VHtfU'Jll^ ''DKlTTAlBll n/<(h pfoii 'ttlhhU ' J//l;/,i» ifi >,\ Id; T!»i,K^?*-rv— ' /^ \ V*',lr X dX/. J^f ^-^-^ ■■'■■■ H v iFAi^'STWl A His A'^'-S^ '"J foSTON I' KO 75 Loriddu: BnuJbuiv !t Fi\a)is,il Bouverie SipftTt,. 75 w air wi\ ia\ / ^ i i/i/VAB ^ *. J /; yi.i J ':%i *»wasJi I Ihimt L. IV i' 't^^iWS/''*^ '"''" l/''?""K.'^ \ ■ Jli- i;;ri''« AlHV''"'' .K"tf'.-' (i< Don y^u-iHiiitL '"■'&" ^.-^'""^ tilfdGi. '.s'r-Lf'fJi |fi.A((.i,<]\ T" i — '"' /^ ' 4r /ijv -^'•^- ,hiii\i J ,-7'^^"'"'T^^^=^^lkol^\^ K\ \ Jiiiiiler/tiKirt.' "fflf ■ ' \ "^yL _»-o niiir ( '" MjiHHachi Boston Biw w. A. ("ai)«' ' «"' 3^'i' ■ *^ '"' TtWi" ■••■ '"""' piunilli rl ^ Bii_y M^Vinmi"" Htiriiinr ^■hi'lliitni BtiHxnir Shiiiinii'V ff7./?j!'»i(^ii) L-«t''W''''''4^i7-'i''?«"«Kr L^'f'>^^^^^^^p«%£/^r^.,,;U /*''y"N^1KftSlTi**S?P^ -.vv.., .-^^/---i?^ /.•> 70 lu: Br CANADA. Ill:; t in the depth of winter; and su('^> cort of knowledge as I gathered wouhl certainly affo, no great excuse in itself for intruding my remarks, r oj)inions on the public when so many excellent boo!;s on Canada already exist. But it happened that my visit took place at a very remarkable period of Canadian and American history, and at a time, too, when certain doctrines, broached not for the first time, but urged with more than usual ability, as to the' relations between what for con- venience I call the mother-country and her colonies, were exciting great attention across the Atlantic. When I left Washington in the winter, a great crisis had been peacefully but not willingly averted by a con- cession on the part of the Federal Government to what the sentiment of the American people considered an exhibition of brute force. The first year of the war had closed over the Federals in gloom. Their arms were not wielded with credit at home — if credit ever can attach to arms wielded in a civil war — and the foreign power which it had been their wont to treat with some- thing as near akin to disrespect as diplomatic decency would permit, aroused by an act which outraged the laws of nations and provoked the censure of every European power with business on the waters, had made prepara- tions which coidd only imply that she would have recourse to hostility if her demands for satisfaction were refused. It was under these circumstances that England obtained the reparation for which she sought, and in the eyes of Americans filched a triumph over their flag and took an insolent advantage over their weakened power " to do as they pleased." General McClellan, 'g THE llEVENQE OF THE FUTURE. 8 c as B in the cady very story, Liclicd usual con- lonies, t crisis acon- ;o wliat jred an var bad as were vcr eau foreign h some- decency the laws uropean prepara- ild have ion were playing the part of Fabius, perhaps bccans^^ he knew not how to j>hiy any other part, had fallen sick and was nigh at death's door in the malarious winter at Wash- ington. Tiic great Union army, like a hybernating eel in the mud, lay motionless, between the Potomac and the clever imposture of the Confederate lines and wooden batteries at iManassas. But haughty aiul hopeful as ever, in tone if not in heart, the Americans raved about vengeance for their own just concessions. They boasted that the seizure of Canada would be one of the measures of retaliation to which they intended promptly to resort, as the indemnity to their injured vanity and as compensation for the surrender of Messrs. Mason and Slidell. Meanwhile the small force of British troops stationed in Canada was reinlorced by the speedy dispatch of some picked regiments from England, which did not raise it much beyond its regular strength, and tardy steps were taken to organise an efficient militia in the province. The volciiiteer movement had extended its influence across the ocean, and a commendable activity all over the British Colonics and Canada falsified the complacent statements of the American papers that the people were not loyal to the Crown nor careful of the connection, which, it was alleged, they would gladly substitute for the protection of the standard of the Northern Republic. All these necessary precautions against the conse- quences of the refusal of the American Government to yield the passengers taken from under our flag, were watched angrily and jealously in the States. The British reinforcements were ridiculed ; their tedious passages, their cheerless marches, were jeeringly chronicled. ' B 2 'M 4 CANADA. Whole ships were reported to have p;one down with living cftrgoes. Those v/lio hindcd were represented as being l)orne on sleiglis l)y HufVeranee routes, wliieh wouhl be impraeticable in war. The Canadians were abused — and so Mere the Proviueialists. Tlie volun- teers were assailed with the weapons whieh the Ameriean press knows so well how to use. But that was false poliey. It gave a stimulus to the loyal feeling of tlie subjects of the Oown. Ti»e Canadian press retorted, and, exulting in the triuni{)h of the Home Government over the Uepubliean Admi- nistration, uttered the taunts which Americans least brook to hear. It was assumed that the task of vengeance and con- quest would be light. I received letters in whieh it was maintained that Canada could not be defended, and that she was not worth defending ; others merely urged that if the Canadians would not take a prominent part in aid of imperial measures for their protection, they must be handed over to the invading Americans ; that their •country cost more than it was worth, and that it was a mistake to keep any connection with the wrong side of the ledger, no matter what the results of rupturing it might be. Americans told me " General Scott declares the Canadian frontier is not capable of defence." True, Americans had told me some months ago that General Scott, now mis en retraite in New York, after a hasty return from Europe — not, as was asserted, with diplo- matic authority or with the view of invading Canada, but to save his pension in ease of foreign war — would be in Richmond about July 22nd or 24tli, 18151. I heard some views of the same kind from our own officers, AMKUICA AND ENGLAND. wlu) expressed doubts rcspectin{^ the possibility of a sucecssfiil resistance to American invasion. Now it' that were so, it struck me that the troops we had in tl»e count y couUl prove but of little use, and that at the same time tlie relative condition of strength between the United States and Great Britain had undergone a vital change mi face of the very agencies which ought to have estal)lishcd more solidly the results obtained in the last trial of force and resources be- tween them on Canadian ground. It was worth while trving to ascertain the truth and to resolve these questions. The United States, dreading a foreign war whicli might interfere with their invasion of the Southern States, had ungraciously made a concession, in revenge for making which their press declared they would on the first convenient occasion make war on the Power they had offended, in a country which they had invaded M'ith all their united power— when Great l^ritain, steam- less and remote, was engaged in European conflicts and destitute of maritime allies — only to meet with defeat, or with success of a nature to prove their incompetency to conquer. Was the power of this distracted republic, con- tending furiously with rebellious members, then, become so great ? If so, with what motive was Great Britain hurrying across the sea the elite of her troops — too few to save these vast domains, too many to lose, and far too many to return as paroled prisoners? Why try to defend on such terras what was worthless and indefensible ? Canada, if not susceptible of defence, would be certainly unsuitable as a base for oflfeusive operations against the States. Obviously the matter 6 CANADA. stood thus : that the military question depended on the temper and spirit of the people themselves. The whole force of the Canadians, sustained by Great Britain, might, apparently, defy all the offensive power of the United States j and I desired to ascertain in what condition were their temper and defences. At this time British officers were endeavouring to prepare the possessions of the Crown against threatened invasion. The Americans on their side were busy forti- fying some important points on the lakes. General Totten, an officer of the United States Engi- neers, well known for his ability, was understood to be engaged on a very elaborate plan of works along the frontier. Colonel Gordon, whose name will be for ever associated with the left attack at the siege of Sebas- topol, aided by an experienced staff, was employed on our side, studying the capabilities of the frontier, and maturing a plan for the consideration of the Government in case of an American war. There were reasons, too, of a personal character for my visiting Canada. I had a fever, which was con- tracted at Washington and laid me prostrate at New York. It was of the low typhoid type, which proved fatal to so many in the Federal army at the same time, and its effects made me weaker for the time than I ever remember to have been. There was no promise what- ever of military operations, and I read every day of the arrival of friends and acquaintances in Canada, whose faces it would be pleasant to see, after the endurance of so many hostile glances and such public exhibition of illw-ill. I do not wish to dwell on private annoyances, but as an instance of the feeling displayed towards me in New THE NEW YORK CLUB. York I may mention one circumstance. On my arrival in 1861 I was elected an honorary member of the club which derives its name from the state or city, and was indebted to its members for many acts of courtesy and for more than one entertainment. Returning to the city from Washington earl}'^ this year, I was invited to dine at the same cUib by one or two of my friends. Certain members, as I afterwards heard, took umbrage at my presence, and fastened a quarrel on my enter- tainers. A day or two subsequently the people of New York were called on, by the notorious journalist who I had honoured me with his animositv ever since I refused the dishonour of his acquaintance, to express their indignation at the conduct of the club ; and the members received a characteristic reprimand for their presumption in lettii^g me into the club, from which they had kept their censor and his clientelle carefully out. My offence was rank; and public opinion — or what is called so — perhaps was in favour of the ostracism at that moment; for, as far as I know, the people must have believed I was the sole cause of the Federal defeat and flight at Bull Run. There was some novelty in the idea of starting for Canada in the midst of the bitter winter wind and the dazzling snow ; but I would have gone to Nova Zembla at the time to have escaped the monotony of New York, which the effects of recent illness rendered more irk- some. New York is among cities, what one of the lower order of molluscous animals, with a single intes- tinal canal, is to a creature of a higher development, with various organs, and full of veins and arteries. Up and down the Broadway passes the stream of life 1 w h K 8 CANADA. M^ to and from the heart in Wall-street. In the narrow space from water to water on either side of this dry canal there is comparatively little animation, and nothing at all to reward the researches of a stranger. Johnson's remark about Fleet-street would apply with truth to the gawky thoroughfare of the Atlantic Tyre. In tlie Broadway or its '' west-end^' extensions are to be found all the hotels, which are the ganglia of the feverish nervous system so incessantly agitated by the operations of the journalistic insects living in secret cysts nigh at hand. All day the great tidevray is rolling in, headed by a noisy crest of little boys, with extras under their arms, and heralded by a confused surfy murmur of voices telling "lies" for cents, and enunciating "Another Great Union Victory !" in one great bore; or it is rush- ing out again with a dismal leaden current, laden with doubts and fears, as the news of some disaster breaks through the locks of government reservoirs and floods the press. • In my hotel, where I was fain to seclude myself in my illness, and to follow the very un-American prac- tice of living in a suite of private rooms, there was but little conflict of opinion on any great event, real or fictitious, which turned up from day to day. The guests and visitors were well-nigh all of one way of thinking. They were of the old consei-vative party, so oddly denominated Democrats, who believed in States Rights : in the right of states to create and maintain their domestic institutions — to secede, if they pleased, from the Union — to resist the attempts of the General Government of the other states to coerce them by force of arms. Some of these gentlemen were satisfied the South NEW YORK DEMOCKATS. 9 would not be coerced ; 5ome hoped the South would resist successfully. None, I fear, were "loyal" to President Lincoln and Mr. Seward, and I am sure none would have said so much for either of them or their friends as I would. The majority principle forces people who hold similar views to meet togetlier, and to select the same hotels to live in. This is unfortunate for a stranger who desires to hear the views of both sides. In the New York, from the highly artistic and skilful operator who flashed out cocktails at the bar, up to the highest authority, there was no man who would like to sav that he was on good terms with Mr. Sumner, or that he did not think Mr. Seward the representative of evil principles. The rule was proved by the exceptions : two I suspect there were — stout Irish waiters, who did not approve of the attempts to destroy "our glorious Union," but who did not find the atmosphere of the place quite favour- able to the free expression of the opinion they mildly hinted at to mvself. The sameness of ideas, of expressions, of faces, became unbearable. I could tell quite well by the look of men's faces what news thev had heard, and what they were saying or going to say about it. Here were crafty politicals and practical men of business, and persons of a philosophical and reflective tem- perament, as well as the foolish, the mere pleasure- hunters, and the unthinking mass of an hotel world, ail looking forward to a near to-morrow to end the woes of the state, always waiting for a "decisive" battle or "an indignant uprising of the people " to drive the Repub- licans out of power and office. Not one of them could or would see that the contest. h-^ lio CANADA. when terminated, would give birth to others — that the vast bodies of diverse interests, prejudices, hatreds, and wrongs set in motion by war over so enormous a surface, where they had been kept suspended and inert by the powers of compromise, could never be recon- solidated and restored to the same state as before, and that it would be the work of time, the labour of many years, ere thoy could settle to rest in any shape what- ever. I am told respectable Americans do not use the word " Britisher,'^ but I am bound to say I heard Americans who looked very respectable using the word at the time of which I speak, when there was still irritation on both sides in consequence of the surrender of Mason and Slidell — in the minds of the friends of the South, because tliey were balked in their anticipation of a foreign war ; in the Federal mind, because, after much threatening and menaces, they had seen the captives surrendered to the British by the President, or, more properly speaking, by Mr. Seward. Hence it was, perhaps, that Canada was always men- tioned in such a tone of contempt, as though the speakers sought to relieve their feelings by abuse of a British dependency. " Goin' to Canada !" exclaimed the faithful Milesian who had been my attendant — in fact, my substitute for a nurse. " Lord help us ! That's a poor place, any- how. I thought you'd be contint wid the snow weVe got here. It's plinty, anyhow. But Canada \" The man had never been there in his life, but he spoke as if it were beyond the bounds of civilisation. He had served in a British regiment for many years ; many of his brothers had been, I think he told me, in the service, CHANGE OF FEELING. 11 but now they were all in the States, and to his notion thriving like himself. In no country on earth is an old nationality so soon absorbed as in America. I am inclined to think the regard professed for England by American literary men is sentimental, and is produced by education and study rather than by any feeling transmitted in families or by society. The emigrant, it is remarked, speedily forgets — in the hurry of his new life the ways of the old slip out of his memory. One day I said to my man, as a regiment of volunteers was marching down Broadway, *^ Those fellows are not quite as well set np as the 41st, Pat." "Well, indeed, and that's thrue; but they'd fight as well I b'lieve, and better maybe, if they'd the officers, poor craychures ! Anyhow," continued he with great gravity, " they can't be flogged for notliin' or for any- thing." "Were you ever flogged?" "No, sirir — not a lash ever touched my back, but Pve known flne sogers spiled by it." It is likely enough that he had never thought on the subject till he came to the States — a short time before and he would have resented deeply the idea that any regiment on earth could stand before Her Majesty's 41st. It was now near the end of January, and as a gleam of fine weather might thaw the glorious Union army of the Potomac, and induce them to advance on the inglorious army of the Confederacy, I resolved to make the best of my way northwards forthwith. My companions were a young British officer, distinguished in the Crimea, in India, and in China, who represented a borough in Parliament, and had come out to see the great contest which m CANADA. was raging in the United States ; and an English gentleman, who happened to be at New York, and ■was anxious to have a look at Niagara, even in its winter dress. On the 27 th January we were all packed to start by the 5. '30 P.M. train bv Albany to Niagara, and thence to Toronto. The landlord made me up a small assort- ment of provisions, as in snow-time trains are not always certain of anything but irregularity. I was regarded as one who was about to make myself needlessly miserable when he might continue in much happiness. " You had better stay, sir, for a few days. I have certain intelligence, let me whisper you, that the Abolitionists will be whipped at the end of this week, and old Abe driven out of Washington." The little bc/s still shout out, "Another great Union victory." The last, by-the-bye, was of General Thomas, at Somerset, which has gradually sublimed into uncertainty, though he handled his men well, and is not bad at a despatch. The credulity of the American mind is beyond belief. Populus vult decipi — and certainly its wishes are com- plied with to the fullest extent. The process of a Union victory, from its birth in the first telegram down to its dissolution in the last despatch, is curious enough. Out comes an extra of the New York Herald — " Glorious Union Victory off Little Bear Creek, Mo. ! — Five Tiiousand Rebels Disposed of! — Grand Ske- daddle ! — General Pumpkin's Brilliant Charge ! — He Out-MuratsMurat ! — Sanguinary E ncounters ! — Cassius Mudd's Invincibles ! — Doom of the Confederacy ! — Jeflf Davis gone to Texas ! " and so on, with a display of (( UNION VICTORY. 13 inglisli k, and in its tart bv thence assort- alwavs irded as Lserable "You certain tionists )ld Abe r great jeneral iblimed ell, and [ belief, e com- s of a ilegram urious ^rald — Mo.! Ske- !— He !!assius I! —Jeff [play of large type, in double-headed Hues, and a profusion of notes of admiration. There is excitement in the bar-rooms. The Demo- crats look down-hearted. The AVar Christians are jubilant. Fiery eyes devour the columns, which con- tain but an elaboration of the heading — swelled perhaps with a biographical sketch of Brigadier- General Cyrus Washington Pumpkin, " who was educated at West Point, where he graduated with Generals Beauregard and McDowell, and eventually subsided into pork-packing at Cincinnati, where he was captain of a fine company till the war broke out, when he tendered his sword," &c. Cassius Mudd's biography is of course reprinted for the twentietli time, and there is a list of the names of all the officers in the regiments near the presumed scene of action. Then comes the action: — "An intelligent gentleman has just arrived at Chicago, and has seen Dr. Bray, to whom he has given full particulars of the fight. It was commenced by Lieutenant Epaminondas Bellows ("son of our respected fellow-citizen, the President of the Bellowstown and Bellona Railway" — here follows a biography of Bellows), who was out scouting with ten more of our boys when they fell into an ambuscade, which opened on them with masked batteries, uttering unearthly yells. With Spartan courage the little band returned the fire, and kept the Seceshers, who were at least 500 strong, at bay till their ammunition was exhausted. Bellows, his form dilated with patriotism, his mellow tones ringing above the storm of battle, was urged to fly by a tempter, whose name Ave suppress. The heroic youth struck the coAvardly traitor to the earth, and indignantly invited the enemy to come on. ')' 1% 14 CANADA. ■^'^i They did so at last. The lieutenant, resisting desperately, then fell, and our men carried his body to the camp, to the skirts of which they were followed by the Secesh cavalry and four guns. Our loss was only two more — the enemy are calculated to have lost 85. The farmers at Munchausen say they were busy all day carrying away their dead in carts. " On reaching the camp, General Pumpkin thought it right to drive back the dastardly polluters of our country's flag. He disposed his troops in platoons, according to the celebrated disposition made by Mil- tiades at Marathon, covering his wings M'ith squadrons of artillery in columns of sub-divisions, with a reserve of cavalry in echelon ; but he improved upon the idea by adding the combination of solid squares and skir- mishers in the third line, by which Alexander the Great decided the Battle of Granicus. " In this order, then, the Union troops advanced till they came to Little Bear Creek. Here, to their great astonishment, they found the enemy under General Jefferson Brick in person (Brick will be remembered by many here as the intelHgent clerk in our advertise- ment department, but he was deeply tainted with Secesh sentiments, and on the unfurling of our flag manifested them in such a manner that we were obliged to dispense with his services). The infamous destroyer of his country's happiness had posted his men so that we could not see them. Thev were at least three to one — mustering some 7,000, with guns, caissons, bag- gage waggons, and standards in proportion — and were arranged in an obtuse angle, of which the smaller end was composed of a mass of veterans, in the order adopted by Napoleon with the Old Guard at Waterloo : THE BATTLE OF LITTLE BEAR CHKEK. 15 the larger, consisting of the "VVhoop-owl Bushwackera and the Squash River Legion in potencc, threatened us with destruction if we advanced on the other wing, whilst we were equally exposed to danger if we remained where we were. " General Pumpkin's conduct is, at this most critical moment, generally described as being worthy of the best days of Roman story. He simply gave the Avord ' Charge.' ' What, General ? ' exclaimed our informant. * Charge ! Sir,* said the general, with a sternness which permitted no further question. With a yell our gallant fellows dashed at the enemy, but the water was too deep in the creek, and they retired with terrific loss. The enemy then dashed at them in turn. They drove our right for three miles ; we drove their left for three-and-a- quarter miles. Their centre drove our left, and our right drove their centre again. They took five of our guns ; we took six of theirs and a bread - cart. "Night put an end to this dreadful struggle, in which American troops set an example to the war- seamed soldiers of antiquity. Next morning General Pumpkin pushed across to Pugstown, and occupied it in force. Union sentiment is rife all through Missouri. We demand that General Pumpkin be at once placed at the head of the Army of the Potomac. '* Now all this — in no degree exaggerated — and the like of which I have read over and over again, affords infinite comfort or causes great depression to New York for an hour or so, coupled with an " editorial," in which the energy and enterprise of the Scarron are duly eulogised, old Greeley's hat and breeches and umbrella handled with charming wit and eloquence, and the inevitable IT' ,i^' i IC CANADA. I'> I II flight of the Richmond Government to Texas elearly demonstrated. !Next day some little doubt is ex- pressed as to the exact locality of the fight — " Pump- kin's force was at Big Bear, 180 miles west of the place indicated. We doubt not, liowever, the account is substantially correct, and that the Sccesh forces have been pretty badly whipped." Next day the casualties are reduced from 200 killed and 310 wounded to DC killed and none Avounded ; and scrutinising eyes notice a statement, in small type, that the " father of Lieutenant Bellows has written to us to state his son was not engaged on the occasion in question, but was at home on furlough." And by the time "Another Great Union Victory!'' is ready, the fact oozes out, but is by no means considered worth a thought, that General Pumpkin has had an encounter with the Confederates in which he suffered a defeat, and that he has gone into winter quarters. I do not suppose for a moment that these deceitful agencies are exercised only in the North, but am per- suaded, from what I know, that the Southern people are at ^east as anxious for news, and as liable to be led away by suppressions of truth or distorted narratives, as those of the Free States. If we had had a telegraphic system and a newspaper press during the Wars of the Roses, or the struggle of 1045, it is probable our parti- sans, on both sides, would have been as open to impos- ture; but I do not think they would have continued long in the faith that the ever-detected impostor was still worthy of credence. CHAPTER II. To the Station— Stars and Stripes — Crowd at Station — Train impeded by Suow — Classic ground — "Manhattan" — " Yonkcrs"— Follow- travellers and their ways — "Beauties of the Hudson" — West Point: their education, &c. — Large Towns on the banks of the Hudson — Arrive at East Albany — Dolaraa House — Bads at a premium — Aspect of Albany not impressive — Sights — The Legis- lature. As we drove over the execrable snow-lieaps to the station, the streets seemed to me unusually dreary. The vast Union flags which flapped in the cold air, now dulled and dim, showed but their great bars of blood, and the stars had faded out into dark- ness. Apropos of the stripes and stars, I may say I never could meet any one in the States able to account for the insignia, though it has been suggested that they are an amplification of the heraldic bearing of George Washington. Strange indeed if the family blazon of an English squire should have become the flaunting flag of the Great Republic, which with all its faults has done so much for the world, and may yet, purged of its vanity, arrogance^ and aggressive tendency, do so much more for mankind ! Not excepting our own, it is the most widely-spread flag on the seas ; for whilst it floats by the side of the British ensign in every haunt of our commerce, it has almost undisputed 18 CANADA. possession of vast tracts of sea in tlie Pacific and South Atlantic. At lust \\c got to the end of our very unpleasant journey, and approached the York and Albany Ter- minus, over an alpine concrete of snow-heaps, snow- holes, and street-rails. At the station my coach-driver affectionately seized my hand, and bade mc good-bye with a cordiality which might have arisen from the sensitiveness of touch in his palm as much as from personal affection. The terminus was crowded with citizens (eating apples, lemon-drops, and gingerbread- nuts, and reading newspapers) and a few men in soldier's uniform, going north — only one or two of what one calls in Europe gentlemen or ladies, but all well dressed and well behaved, if they would only spare the hissing stoves and the feelings of prejudiced foreigners. The train, with more punctuality than we usually observe in such matters, started to the minute, but only went ten yards or so, and then halted Tor nearly half an hour — no one knew why, and no one seemed to care, except a gentleman who was going, he said, to get his friend, " the Honourable Something llaymond, to do something for him at Albany," and was rather in a hurry. "When the engine renewed the active exercise of its powers, the pace was slow and the motion was jerking and uneven, owing to snow on the rails, and the obstacles increased as the train left the shelter of the low long-stretching suburb which clings to it, and is dragged, as it were, out of the city with it along the bank of the Hudson. But even IS 1st and ISSnd streets abandoned their attempts to keep up with the rail ; and all that could be seen of civilisation were sundry chimneys and walls and uncouth dark masses CLASSIC OUOUND. lU of wood or brick rising above the snow. The lights in the wooden stations shone ont frostily through the dimmed windows as we struggled on. We were passing through at night what is to Americans classic ground, in spite of odd names: for liere is "Man- hattan" (associated in my mind for ever with a man who, unfortunately for himself and me, had a wooden leg, as he planted the iron ferule of tliat insensible member on the only weak point of my weaker foot) — and next is " Yonkers," where a lady once lived M-ith whom Wash- ington M'as once in love, and several " fights" took place all around, in which the Americans were more often beaten than victorious ; — " Dobb's Ferry " "Tarrytown" (poor Andre! let those who wish to know all that can be known of the "spy'' read Mr. Sargent's life of him, published in Philadelphia), which is " nigh on toe Sleepy Hollow," where Mr. Diedrieh Knickerbocker had such a remarkable interview with the ancient Hollander ; — " Sing Sing," where many gentlemen, not so well known to fame, have interviews of a less agreeable character with modern American authorities. We are passing, too, by Sunnyside, where Washington Irving lived. I would rather have seen him than all the remarkable politicians in the States — old Faneuil, or Bunker's Hill, or all the wonders of the great nation ; though I am told he was unbearably prosy and sleepy of late days. Cold and colder it becomes as wc creep on, and slower creaks the train with its motley freight. The men round the stoves " fire up " till the iron glo ws and gives out the heated air to those who can stand it, and an unsavoury odour, as of baked second-hand clothing, and a hissing noise to those beyond the torrid 2 •20 CANADA. i |.:fl circle. The slamming of the door never ceases. Some- times it is a conductor, sometimes it is not. But no matter who makes the disturbance, he has a right to do so. No one can sleep on account of that abominable noise, even if he could court slumber in a seat which is provided with a rim to hurt his back if he reclines, and a ridge to smite his face if he leans forward. Apples and water and somebody's lemon-drops are in demand ; and vendors of vegetable ivory furtively deposit speci- mens of ingenious manufacture but inscrutable purpose in the lap of the unoffending stranger, who in his sleepy state often falls a victim to these artifices, and finds himself called on to pay several dollars for quaint products of the carver, which he has unduly detained in his unconsciousness. The train arrives at Poughkeepsie, seventy -five miles from New York, an hour and a half late. "We hear that, instead of reaching Albany at 10.30 or 11 P.M., we shall not be in till 1 or 1.30 a.m., and will " lose communications ;" therefore we eat in despera- tion at refreshment-rooms large oysters boiled in milk out of small basins. In the night once mt re. We have passed West Point long since, and an enthusiastic child of nature, who has been pointing cut to me the "beauties of the Hudson," which is flowing down under its mail of ice close to our left, has gone to sleep among the fire-worshippers at the stove. Now, the fact is, that scenery under snow is, I may safely affirm, very like beauty under a mask, or a fine figure in a waterproof blanket. The hills were mere snow-mounds, and the lines of all objects were fluffy and indistinct ; and I was glad my eulogistic friend slept at last. West Point I longed to see ; for thougl yet nc excelle ofiicers have p live ge seen JVJ and M( inquiry Above someth Americ It is Europe of the few ex( time at country difteren elsewhe by any he has t as a mi the mil miHtia c There civilians academi There ai of State ing, but But t laboured AMERICAN GENERALS. "1 though its success in turning out great generals has as yet not been very remarkable, I had met too many excellent specimens of its handiwork in making good officers and pleasant gentlemen not to feel a desire to have purview of the institution. Had I not heard a live general sing " Benny Haven, ho ! *" — had I not seen Mordecai sitting at the gate of Pelissier in vain, and McClellan and Delalield engaged in a geological inquiry on the remains of the siege of Sebastopol? Above all, does not West Point promise to become something like a military academy, in a country such as America is likely to be after the war? It is a mistake rather common in England, and in Europe, to suppose that a majority, or even a minority, of the American generals are civilians. With very few exceptions indeed, they have either been some time at West Point, or have graduated there. In a country which has no established lines to mark the difference of classes, which nevertheless exists there as elsewhere, there is a positive social elevation acquired by any man who has graduated at West Point ; and if he has taken a high degree, he is regarded in his State as a man of mark, whose services must be secured for the military organisation and public service in the militia or volunteers. There is no country in the world where so many civilians have received their education in military academies without any view to a military career. There are of course many "^ generals " and " colonels " of States troops who have had no professional train- ings but ]^t nearly so many as might be imagined. But the great defect under which American officers laboured until tliis unhappy war broke out, was the m m \v- '■'■ f CANADA. purely empirical and theoretical state of tlieir know- ledge. They had no practical experience. The best of them had only such knowledge as they could have gleaned in the ^Mexican war. A man whose head was full of Jomini was sent off to command a detachment in a frontier fort, and to watch marauding Indians, for long years of his life, and never saw a regiment in the field. As to working the three arms together credit- ably in the field, i doubt if there is an officer in the whole army who could do it anything like so well as the Duke of Cambridge, or as an Aldershot or Curragh brigadier. It would be hard for any Englishman to be indiffe- rent to the advantages of military training in a country where every village around could have told tales of the helpless, hopeless blundering which characterised the operations of the British generals hereabouts in the War of Independence. Reflecting thus, too, I felt less inclined to wonder at the mistakes made by the Federals, and by the Confederates. Had the British generals proved more lucky and skilful, should we now have been passing the towns which cluster on the banks of the Hudson, or would " monarchy " have impeded the march of life, commerce, and civilisation out here ? Towns of 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, and even of 30,000 inhabitants rise on the margin of the fine ri'/er, which in summer presents, I am assured, a scene of charming variety and animation, and in autumn is fringed by the most beautiful of all beautiful American landscapes, surcharged with the glorious colours of that lovely sf^ason. Through the darkness by the bright starlight we could see the steamboats locked fast in the ice, like them fr was ! the trai o'clock at East The river; a called til sengers. made a^T on runr machine down b^ • had pier 1 mg scru the river We had than one now roll river, am tests of t as if it M to rise u Then, aft an-hour ] suppose- ping, an( the othe deserted State of open to : citizens EAST ALBANY. 23 ice, like knights in proof, awaiting the signal to set them free for the charge. But, ah me ! how weary it was ! — how horrible the stoves ! At last and at last the train stopped, and finally deposited us at three o^clock in the morning on the left bank of the Hudson, at East Albany. The city proper lies on the opposite shore of the river ; and I got, as I was directed, into a long low box called the omnibus, which was soon crowded with pas- sengers. In a few minutes we were off. Then I was made aware that the ^bus was a sleigh, and that it was on runners and Just at that moment the machine made a headlong plunge, like a ship going down by the bows at sea, and in an instant more had pierced the depths of darkness, and with a crash- ing scrunching bump touched the bottom. "We're on the river now, I guess," quoth one. And so it was. We had shot down the bank, which must be higher than one would like to leap, even on snow, and were now rolling, squeaking, and jerking over the frozen river, amid the groans and shrieks and grumbling pro- tests of the ice, which seemed in some places to give way as if it were going to let us down bodily, and in others to rise up in strong ridges to baffle the horses' eflforts. Then, after a most disagreeable drive, which seemed half- an-hour long — and about thrice as long as it really was, I suppose — a prodigious effort of horse muscle and whip- ping, and of manual labour, accomplished the ascent of the other bank, and the vehicle passed through the deserted streets of Albany — the capital of the great State of New York — to the Delavan House, which was open to receive but not to entertain us. A rush of citizens was made to "the office" of the hotel. More *'> 1 [i I 24 CANADA. citizens followed out of fast-arriving vehicles from the train — for there was no means of getting on till the fore- noon — and all went perforce to the Delavan House. The hotel office consisted of a counter with a raised desk, enclosing a man with a gold chain, a diamond stuck in the front of a dress shirt — not as pin to a scarf or as a stud, but as a diamond per se, after the fashion of those people and of railway conductors in the land — his hat cocked over one eye, a toothpick even at that hour in his mouth, a black dress suit of clothes, a dyed moustache and beard a la Rowdv Americain, and an air of sovereign contempt for his customers. The crowd pressed aroimd and hurled volleys of questions — " Can we have beds, sir? " &c. But the man of Delavan House replied not. To all their entreaties he returned not a word. But he did take out a great book and spread it on the counter, and putting a pen in the ink he handed it to the citizen nearest, who signed himself and his State, and asked meekly " if he could have a bed at once, as he was so " &c. To him the man of Delavan House deigned no reply. The pen was handed to another, who signed, and so on — the arbiter of our destinies watching each inscription with the air of an attorney's clerk who takes signatures to an attestation. There were at least fifty people to sign before me, and I heard from a waiter there were only ten beds — which on the most ample allowance would only accommodate some thirty people — vacant. Were the Britishers to be beaten ? Never ! Leaving oi r luggage, we dashed out into the snow. And lo ! a house nigh at hand, with lights and open doors. A black waiter sallied out at the tramp of feet in the hall. He told us, " De rooms all tuk, sar." He was told to be less indiscreet in his invadin< wards t ing ope beds em room's was dra aided bj I hac my hat- the bool pleasure bled ws propriet was sho( his leav but I d( them SI grateful. !^ AVer tion of I could Hon. — havehea against and repi golden s No ra shall rep like a p! did not of the S utterly THE STATE CAriTOL. 25 .\.;i in his assertions, and all the time of colloquy the invading Celts and Saxons pushed on wan s and up- wards to the first landing. Here were doors stand- ing open. We entered one. Three small rooms — beds empty ! no luggage ! This will do. " Massa, dis room's all " " You be quiet ! " And the luggage was dragged over by our own right hands, eventually aided by the Ethiop. I had the satisfaction, as I was gliding away with my hat-box, to hear the man of Delavan House readinj^ the book of fate, and selecting his victims at his grim pleasure. In fact, the house on which we had stum- bled was a sort of succursal to the hotel ; and the proprietor, afraid of offending so mi^'Uty a potentate, was shocked at the idea of letting in any one without his leave. What became of the victims I know not, but I do know that the beds — though we went to them supperless — of the humble L elry were very grateful. !^ went to bed about 4 a.m., with the fixed inten- tion of getting up early and visiting the capitol, when I could have seen with these eyes the glories of the Hon. — Raymond as Speaker in the State Hall, and have heard something more of the interesting proceedings against a New York alderman, who accused senators and representatives of being accessible as Danae to the golden shower, and even to greenbacks. No man can see the real merits of a city in snow. I shall repeat the remark no more; therefore if I say I don't like a place, Iqt the snow bear the blame : but Albany did not impress me when I did get up, and the sight of the State Capitol at the top of a steep street was so utterly depressing, that I abandoned ray resolve, and 26 CANADA. sought less classic ground. What have not these Greeks to answer for in this new land ? There was a comforting contrast to the hideous domes and mock porticoes, and generally to the ugliness of the public buildings, in the solid unpretentious look of the old Dutch-built houses of private citizens. Though there is an aspect of decadence about Albany, it seems more, far more respectable and gentlemanly than its smug, smirking, meretricious but overwhelming rival, New York. I was informed by an American that it was called after the second name in the title of James the Second, before he ascended the throne. " Bad as the Stuarts were to you, they A\ere a great deal better for the colonies/' said he, " than your Hanover House, and perhaps if you hadn't changed them you might not have lost us." It was curious to hear an American saying a good word for the luckless house, though I am by no means of the opinion that England could ever have ruled colonies which were saturated with the principles of self-government. It was too cold at such a season as this for philo- sophical research in a sleigh, and too slippery for sauntering; and we were whirled out of the State capital without seeing much of it, except church steeples, and some decent streets, and the ice-bound river studded with hard-set steamers. There are, however, in summer time, as I hear, and can well imagine, many fine sights to be seen. There is the Fall of Cohoes, where the Mohawk Kiver, a stream of greater body than the Thames at Richmond, leaps full seventy feet down into a gulf, whence it col- lects itself to pursue its course to the Hudson. There are Shal " isms ' there are customs rule of lords in c by the si The Li investiga York aid passed h extra- offi only be i Speaker in spite c of the C high offic Americai learned 1 in any cc of the senator, ; he favoui vote agai THE LEGISLATURE. m are Shaker settlements, and many communities of "isms" and astounding congregations of ^^ists;" and there are clean Dutch streets, and Dutch tenures and customs to this lay. With the tenures, however, the rule of the majority has made rough work; and the lords in capite, or padroons, have suffered pauperisation by the simple process of nonpayment of their rents. The Legislature is now in solemn conclave. They are investigating charges implied in the speech of a New York alderman, who declared he could get any measure passed he liked, by paying the members — of course extra-officially, because the payment, pei' se, could only be an agreeable addition to their income. The Speaker is Mr Raymond, of the New Yoi'k Times, who, in spite of or perhaps in consequence of the opposition of the Caledonian Cleon, his rival, was elected to that high office. It was in course of conversation witli an American gentleman respecting the election, that I learned there was no more certain way of succeeding in any contest in the State, than to obtain the abuse of the organ under that person's control. Be it senator, mayor, or common-councilman, the candidate he favours is lost, for all respectable people instinctively vote against him. /: s I» ! »■ I CHAPTER III. Unpleasant journey to Niagara — Mr, Seward — The Union and its dangers— Pass BuflFalo— Arrival at Niagara— A ' Toutcr '— Bad weatlier— Tlie Road — Climate compared — Desolate appearance of houses — The St. Lawrence viewed from above — One hundred years ago — Canada the great object of the Americans — The Welland Canal — Effect of the Falls from a distance — Gradual approach — Less volume of water in winter — DiEferent effect and dangers in winter — Icicles — Behind the Cataract — Photographs and Bazaar— Visit the " Lions" generally — Brock — American and Canadian sides contrasted — Goat Island — A whisper heard — Mills and Manufactories. It was past noon ere the train once more began its contest with the snow — now conquering, now stubbornly resisted, and brought to a standstill: — the pace ex- ceedingly slow, the scenery that of undulating white tablecloths, the society dull. The journey to Niagara Avas as unpleasant as very bad travelling and absence of anything to see could make it. The train contained many soldiers or volun- teers going back, to their people, who discussed the conduct of the war with earnestness and acuteness; but though we were so far north, I could not hear any of them very anxious about the negro. Well-dressed men and women got in and out at all the stations, nor did I see persons in the whole line of the cars who seemed to have rubbed elbows with adversity. Shenectady ! Utica ! Syracuse ! Auburn ! Here be MR. SEWARD. 29 coraminglings ! — the Indian, the Phocno-Nuraidian, the Greek- Sicilian, the Anglo-Irish, all reviving here in fair towns, full of wealth, commerce, and life. The last-named is, I believe, the birthplace, and is certainlv what auctioneers call the residential abode, of Mr. Seward. I remember his Excellenc}^ relating how, after the Battle of Bull Kun — when he was threatened by certain people from Baltimore with hanging, as the reward of his misdeeds in plunging the country into civil war — he resolved to visit his fellow-citizens and neighbours, to ascertain whether there was any change of feeling amongst them. He was received with every demonstration of kindness and respect, and then, said he, " I felt my head was quite safe on my shoulders." It is but just to say, Mr. Seward altogether disclaims the intention of seizing on Canada, which has been attributed to him in England ; although he certainly is of opinion, that the province cannot continue long to be a dependency of the English Crown. How long does he think California will be content to receive orders from a government at Washington ? The danger which menaces the Union will become far greater after the success of the Unionists than it was during the war, because the extinction of the principle of States Rights will naturally tend to centralise the power of the Federal Government. They cannot restore that which they have pulled down. In virtue of their own principles, they must maintain a strict watch and supreme control over the State Governments and Legislatures. Endless disputes and jealousies will arise. The Democrats, at once the wealthiest and the ablest party in each State, will take 30 CANADA. every opportunity of opposing the centralised Govern- ment ; and although the Republicans may raise armies to fight for the Union, they will not be able to prevent the slow and certain action of the State Legislatures, which will tend to detach the States more and more from any federation in which their interests are not engaged, and to form them into groups, ])ound together by community of commerce, manufacture, feeling, and destinv. Canada must of course accept its fate with the rest ; but Englishmen, at least, will not yield it to the menaces or violence of the Northern Americans, as long as the people of the province prefer being our fellow-subjects to an incorporation in the Great Re- public, or any section of it that may be desirous of the abstraction. I fear we mostly look at Mr. Seward's conduct and language from a point which causes erroneous inferences. It should be remembered that he is an American minister — that he has not only the interests but the passions and prejudices of the American people to consult, and that, like Lord Palmerston, he is not the minister of any country but his own. His son, the Under-Secretary of State, is the proprietor and editor of a journal here, which is conducted with the moderation and tact to be expected from the amiable character of the gentleman alluded to. There was little to be seen of the towns at which we halted, and our journey was continued from one to the other monotonously enough. The weary creeping of the train, the foul atmosphere, the delays, however inevitable and unavoidable, rather spoiled one's interest in the black smoky-looking cities on the white plains <( A NIAGARA TOUTER. 31 through wliich we passed; and night found us still and occasionally stopping and digging Thus we passed by Rochester and the Genessee ** scrooging on/' out. Falls, which seem extensively used up in mill-working, and arrived at Buffalo (278 miles) a little before mid- night. There we branched off to Niagara, which is 22 miles further on. Up to this time we had been minded to go to the Clifton House, which is on the Canadian side of the river, though it is kept by Americans, and of which we had agreeable memories in the summer, when it was the headquarters of many pleasant Southerners. There were only three or four men in our car, one of whom was, even under such hopeless circumstances, doing a little touting for an hotel at the American side. After a while he threw a fly over us and landed the whole basket. All the large hotels, he said, were shut up on both sides of the Falls, but he could take us to a very nice quiet and comfortable place, where we would meet with every attention, and it was the only house we would find open. This exposition left us no choice. AVe surrendered ourselves therefore to the tout, who was a very different being from the type of his class in England ; a tall, pleasant-faced man, with a keen eye and bronzed face, ending in an American Vandyke beard, a fur collar round his neck, a heavy travelling coat — from which peered out the rujQfles of a white shirt and a glittering watch-chain — rings on his fingers, and unexceptionable shoeing, lie smoked his cigar with an air, and talked as if he were conferring a favour. " And I tell you what ! V\\ show you all over the Falls to-morrow. Yes, sir ! " Why, we were ■1 sz CANADA. under eternal obligations to such a guide, and inter- nally thanking our stars for the treasure-trove at once accepted him. At the gloomy deserted station we were now shot out, on a sheet of slippery dccj) snow, an hour after midnight. "VVe followed our guide to an hostelry of the humbler sort, where the attention was not at first very marked or the comfort at all decided. The night was very dark, and a thaw had set in under the influence of a warm rain. The thunder of the Falls could not be heard through the thick air, but when we were in the house a quiet little quivering rattle of the window-panes spoke of its influence. The bar-room was closed — in the tawdry foul-odoured eating-room swung a feeble lamp : it was quite unreasonable to suppose any one could be hungry at such an hour, and we went to bed with the nourishment supplied by an anticipation of feasting on scenery. All through the night the door and window-frames kept up the drum- like roll to the grand music far away. We woke up early. What evil fortune ! Rain ! fog I thaw ! — the snow melting fast in the dark air. But were we not "bound" to see the Falls? So after breakfast, and ample supplies of coarse food, we started in a vehicle driven by the trapper of the night before. He turned out to be a very intelligent, shrewd American, who had knocked about a good deal in the States, and knew men and manners in a larger field than Ulysses ever wandered over. The aspect of the American city in winter time is decidedly quite the reverse of attractive, but there was a far larger fixed population than we expected to have seen, and the fame of our arrival had gone THE NEQU0E3 AND THE IKISH. 33 abroad, so that there was a small assemblage round the stove in the bar-room and in the passage to see us start. I don't mean to see us in particular, but to stare at any three strangers who turned up so sus- piciously and unexpectedly at this season. The walls of the room in tiic hotel were covered with placards, offering large bounties and liberal inducements to recruits for the local regiment of volunteers; and I was told that a great number of men had gone for the war after the season had concluded — but Abolition is by no means popular in Niagara. It was resolved that we should drive round to the British side by the Suspension Bridge, a couple of miles below, as the best way of inducting ray companions into the wonders of the Falls; and I prepared myself for a great surprise in the difference between the character of the scene in .vinter and in summer. For some time the road runs on a low level below the river bank, and does not permit of a sight of the cataract. The wooden huts of the Irish squatters looked more squalid and miserable than they were when I saw tli^m last year — wonderful combinations of old plank, tarpaulin, tinplate, and stove pipes. " It's wonderful the settlement doesn't catch fire ! " "But it does catch fire. It's burned down often enough. Nobody cares : and the Irish grin, and build it up again, and beat a few of the niggers, whom they accuse of having blazed 'em up. They've a purty hard time of it now, I think." There are too many free negroes and too many Irish located in the immediate neighbourhood of the American town, to cause the doctrines of the Abolitionists to be received with much favour by CANADA. the American population ; and the Irish of course are opposed to free negroes, where they are attracted by paperraills, hotel service, bricklaying, plastering, housebuilding, and the like — the Americans mono- polising the higher branches of labour and money- making, including the guide business. At a bend in t' 3 road we caught a glimpse of the Falls, and I was concerned tc observe they appeared diminished in form, in beauty, and in efiPect. The cataract appeared of an ochreish hue, like bog-water, as patches of it came into sight through breaks in the thick screen of trees which line the banks. The eflfect was partly due "^o the rain, perhaps, but was cer- tainly developed by the white setting ot snow through which it rushtd. The expression on my friends' faces i idicated that they considered Niagara an imposition. " The Falls are like one of our great statesmen," quoth the guide, "just now. There's nothing par- ticular about them when you first catch a view of them ; but when you get close and know them better, then the power comes out, and you feel small as potatoes." , As we splashed on through the snow, I began to consider the disadvantages to which the poor emigrant who chooses a land exposed to the rigours of a six montlis' winter, must be exposed ; and I wondered in my self that the early settlers did not fly, if they had a chance, when they first experienced the efi'ects of bitter cold. But I recollected how much better were soil, climate, and communications than thev are in the sunny South, where, for seven months, the heat is far more intolerable than the cold of Canada — where the fever revels, where noxious reptiles and insects vex hui whel pro( El • • IS 11 scare banld VallJ futui why than THE ST. LAWRENCE. 35 course ttracted istering, I raono- money- e of the ippeared ;t. The ivater, as s in the he effect was cer- through ds' faces josition. esmen/' ng par- view of better, mall as human life, and the blood is poisoned by malaria, and where wheat refuses to grow, and bread is a foreign product. Even in Illinois the winter is, as a rule, as severe as it is in Canada, the heat as great in summer — water is scarce, roads bad. It is better to be a dweller on the banks of the St. Lawrence than a resident in the Valley of the Mississippi, even if a tithe of its fabled future should ever come to pass. There is no reason why the Canadas should be regarded with less favour than the Western States, although the winters are long enough : in the prairie there is a want of wholesome water in summer, and a scarcity of fuel for cold weather, which tend to restore the balance in favour of the provinces. The country, which I remembered so riant and rich, now was cold and desolate. At the station, near the beautiful Suspension Bridge — which one cannot praise too much, and which I hope may last for ever, though it does not look like it — the houses had closed windows, and half of them seemed empty, but the German proprietors no doubt could have been found in the lagerbeer saloons and billiard-rooms. The toll-takers and revenue officers on the bridge showed the usual apathy of their genus. No novelty moves them. Had the King of Oude appeared with all his court on elephants, they would have merely been puzzled how to assess the animals. They were not in the least discon- certed at a group of travellers visiting the St. Iiawrence in winter time. The sight of the St. Lawrence as we crossed over, roaring and foaming more than a hundred feet below us, and rushing between the precipitous banks on which D 2 CANADA. the bridge rests, gave one a sort of '^frisson ." it looked like some stream of the Inferno — the waters, black and cold, lashed into pyramids of white foam, and seeming by their very violence to impede their own escape. Some distance below the bridge, indeed, they rise up in a visible ridge, crested with high plumes of tossing spray ; but it is related as a fact that the steamer " ]\Iaid of the Mist,^' which was wont to ply as a ferry-boat below the Falls, was let down this awful sluice by a daring captain, who sought to save her from the grip of certain legal functionaries, and that she got through with the loss of her chimney, after a fierce contest with the waters, in which she was whirled round and buffeted almost to foundering. At that moment the men on board would no doubt have surrendered to the feeblest of bailiffs for the chance of smooth water. About one hundred years ago, the spot where we now stood was the scene of continual struggles between the Red man, still strong enough to strike a blow for his heritage, and the British. It was on the 14th September, 1764, that the Indians routed a detach- ment at Niagara, and killed and wounded upwards of two hundred men ; and their organisation seemed so formidable that Amherst was glad to make a treaty with the tribes through the instrumentality of Sir W. Johnston. The colonists then left on us the main burden of any difficulty arising from their great cupidity and indifference to the rights of the natives. In ten years afterwards they were engaged in pre- paring for the grand revolt which gave birth to the United States and to the greatest development of self- government ever seen in the world. As they were setting about the work of wresting kings OUR COLONIl^S. 37 legal 3SS of ;reaty ir W. self. ;stini the New "World from the grasp of the monarchical system, Cook was exploring the shores of the other vast continent in the Soutliern Sea, where the spirit of British institutions, with the widest extension of constitutional liberty, may yet successfully vindicate the attachment of a great Anglo-Saxon race to the Crown. There are many in America who think the colonies would never have revolted if the French had retained possession of Canada, and, indeed, it is likely enough the Anglo-Saxons would have held to the connection if the Latin race had been sitting upon them north- wards; but the political accidents and the military results which expelled the fleur-de-lys from Canada, doubtless created an unnatural bond of union between the absolutist Court of St. Germains and the pre- cursors of Anacharsis Clootz in the colonies. To the seer there might have been something ominous in the coalition. The men who were battling for the divine right of kings in Europe could scarce fight for the divine right of man in America without danger. The kiss which was imprinted at Versailles on Franklin's cheek, by the lips of a royal lady, must have had the smack of the guillotine in it. Anyway, we must allow, the French - Canadians, who stood by us shoulder to shoulder and beat back the American battalions, whoi,3 power to invade was mainly derived from foreign support, showed they had a surprising instinct for true liberty. No doubt they would have fought at least as stoutly, had the arro- gant colonists been aided by red-coats, for the sake of the white banner and the fleur-de-lys; but in tlie time 38 CANAP V. of trouble and danger they stood loyally by the Crown and connection of England, and their services in that day should not be lightly forgotten. It is above all things noteworthy, perhaps, that the Americans in all their wars with the mother-country have sought to strike swift hard blows in Canada, and that hitherto, with every advantage and after con- siderable successes, they have been driven, weather- beaten back, and bootless home. It was ar:. 'allv on the land shaken by the roar of these falling floods that battles have been fought, and that the air has listened in doubt to the voice of cannon mingling with the eternal chorus of th^ ataract. There are here two points at which Canada lies open to the invader. The first lies above the Rapids — the latter is below them, where the St. Lawrence flows into the lake. Three considerable actions and various small engagements have taken place on the Canadian side of the river, all of which were characterised by great obstinacy and much bloodshed. Let us con- sider them, and see what can or ought to be done in order to guard the tempting bank which ofi'ers such an excellent base of operations for future hostile occupation. An inspection of the map will show the Welland Canal, running from Port Maitland, Dunnville, and Port Colborne, on Lake Erie, to Lake Ontario at Port Dalhousie. The command of this canal would be of the very greatest importance to an invading army, as it would establish a communication inside the Falls of Niagara; but it would be very difficult to obtain such a command so as to prevent the destruction of the canal in case of necessity,. It is obvious, however, that -1 I 'I DEFENCE OF NIAGARA. 89 the line of it should be defended, and that garrisons should be stationed to hold points inside the line, sach as Eric and Chippewa, to render it unsafe for the enemy to move down inside them. At Fort Erie there is a very insignificant work, but, with that exception, the line of the Welland Canul may be considered as perfectly open and defenceless — not by any means as utterly indefensible. The river is not broad enough to prevent the dwellers on the banks from indulging in hostilities if they pleased ; but no practical advantage would be gained in a campaign by any operation which did not settle the fate of the Welland Canal. The locks will permit vessels 142 feet long, with 26 feet beam, and drawing 10 feet of water, to pass between Erie and Ontario ; and from the latter lake to the sea, or vice versa, the}' can pass by the St. Lawrence Canal, draw- ing one foot less water. It would be above all things important to prevent an enemy getting possession of this Welland Canal. It would not suffice for us to de- stroy it by injuring a lock or the like, as such an act would militate against our own lines of communication, — more important to us, who have an inferior power of transport on the lakes, than it would be to the Americans. In addition to a well-devised system of field-works, it is desirable that permanent fortifications should be con- structed to cover the termini of the canal and the feeder above Port Maitland. At present, the defensive means of Fort Erie, at the entrance of the river above the Rapids, are very poor, and quite inadequate to resist modern artillery. However, this subject will be best discussed when I come to speak of the general defence of Canada. t m CANADA. This yawning gap is barrier enough between the two countries should they ever, unhappily, become belli- gerent, but the banks can be commanded by either; and in case of war the bridge would no doubt be sacri- ficed by one or other, as well as the grander stiucture at Montreal would be, without some special covenant. When still a mile and a half away, a whirling pillar of a leaden gray colour, with wreaths of a lighter silvery hue playing round it, which rose to the height of several hundred feet in the air, indicated the position of the Falls. The vapour was more solid and gloomy-looking than the cloudlike mantle which shrouds the cataract oftentimes in the summer. I doubt if there is a very satisfactory solution of its existence at all. Of course the cloud is caused by particles of water thrown up into the atmosphere by the violent impact of the water on the surface, and by the spray thrown oflF in the descent of the toil-ent ; but why those particles remain floating about, instead of falling at once like rain, is beyond my poor comprehension. Sure enough, a cer- tain portion does descend like a thick Scotch mist : why not all ? As one of my companions, with much gravity and an air of profound wisdom, remarked last summer, "It's probable electricity has something to do with it ! " Can any one say more ? Assuredly, this ever-rolling mighty cloud draping and overhanging the Falls adds much to their weird and wonderful beauty. Its variety of form is infinite, changing with every current of air, and altering from day to day in height and volume ; but I never looked at it without fancying I could trace in the outlines the indistinct shape of a woman, with flowing hair and drooping arms, veiled in drapery — now crouching on AT THE FALLS. 41 tlie very surface of the flood, again towering along and tossing up her hands to heaven, or sinking down and bending low to the edge of the cataract as though to drink its waters. With the aid of an active fancy, one might deem it to be the guardian spirit of the wondrous place. The wind was unfavourable, and the noise of the cataract was not heard in all its majestic violence ; but as we came nearer, we looked at each other and said nothing. It grew on us like the tumult of an approaching battle. There is this in the noise of the Falls : produced by a monotonous and invariable cause, it nevertheless varies incessantly in tone and expression. As you listen, the thunder peals loudly, then dies away into a hoarse grumble, rolls on again as if swelled by minor storms, clangs in the ear, and after a while, like a river of sound welling over and irrepressible, drowns the sense in one vast rush of inexpressible grandeur — then melts away till you are almost startled at the silence and look up to see the Falls, like a green mountaiu-side streaked with fresh snowdrifts, slide and shimmer over the precipice. It may well be conceived with what awe and super- stitious dread honest Jesuit Hennepin, following his Indian guides through the gloom of the forest primaeval, gazed on the dreadful flood, which had then no garniture of trimmed banks, cleared fields, snug hotels, and cockney gazabos to alleviate the natural terror with which man must gaze on a spectacle which conjures up such solemn images of death, time, and eternity. No words can describe the Falls ; and Church's pic- ture, very truthful and wonderful as to form, cannot 41 CANADA. convey an idea of the life of the scene — of the motion and noise and shifting colour which abound there in sky and water. I doubt, indeed, if any man can de- scribe his own sensations very accurately, for they undergo constant change ; and for my own part I would say that the eflPect increases daily, and that one leaves tlic scene with more vivid impressions of its grandeur and beauty than is produced by the first coup-d'oeil. A gradual approach does not at all diminish the power of the cataract, and the mind is rather unduly excited by the aspect of the Styx-like flood — black, foara-crcsted, and of great volume, with every indica- tion of profound depth — which hurries on so swiftly and so furiously below the road on which you are travelling, between banks cut down through grim, dark rock, 80 sheer that the tops of the upper trees which take root in the strata can be nearly touched by the traveller's stick. The idea that the whole of the great river beneath you has just leaped over a barrier of rock prepares one's conception for the greatness of the cataract itself. In summer time there were wild ducks flying about, and terns darted up and down the stream. Now it was deserted and desolate, looking of more inky hue in contrast with the snow. Close to the boiling cataract the fishermen's tiny barks might then be seen rocking up and down, or the angler sought the bass which loves those turbulent depths ; but no such signs of human life and industry are visible in winter. Before Niagara was, odd creatures enough lived about here, which can now be detected fossilised in the THE FALLS IN WINTER. 43 8 motion there in can de- fer they 1 part I that one IS of its the first nish the ■ unduly 1 — black, Y indica- iftly and avelling, rk rock, ich take by the be great of rock of the flying stream. >f more to the it then sought but no ible in about bn the magnesian limestone. How many myriads of years it has been eating away its dear heart and gnawing the rock let Sir Charles Lyell or Sir Roderick Murchison calculate ; but T am persuaded that since 1 saw it some montlis ago there has been a change in the aspect of the Horseshoe Fall, and that it has become more deeply curved. The residents, however, though admitting the occurrence of changes, say tliey are very slow, and that no very rapid alteration has taken place since the fall of a great part of Table Rock some years ago : but masses of stone may be washed away every day without their knowing il. One very natural consequence of a visit in the winter was undeniable — that the Falls were visibly less : they did not extend so far, and they rolled with diminished volume. The water did not look so pure, and incredible icicles and hanging glaciers obscured the outlines of the rocks and even intruded on the water- course ; whilst the trees above, laden with snow, stood up like inverted icicles again, and rendered it difficult to define the boundary between earth, air, and water. A noiseless drive brought us to the village. Clifton House was deserted — the windows closed, the doors fastened. No gay groups disported on the pro- menade; but the bird-stuffer's, the Jew's museum, the photographer's shed, the Prince's triumphal arch, were still extant; and the bazaars, where they sell views, seashells, Indian beadwork and feathers, mocca- sins, stufl'ed birds, and the like, were open and anxious for customers. Our party was a godsend ; but the worthy Israelite, who has collected such an odd museum here — one, under all the circumstances, most creditable to his industry and perseverance as well as 44 CANADA. liberality — said tliat travellers came pretty often in fine winter weather to loci at the cataract. "We walked in our moccasins to ' '. Table Hock, and thence to the verge of the Falls, and gazed in silence on the struggling fury of the terrible Rapids, which seem as if they wrestled with each other like strong men con- tending against death, and fighting to the last till the fatal leap must be made. The hateful little wooden staircases, which like black slugs crawl up the precipice from the foot of the Falls, caught the eyes of my companions; and when they were informed that they could go down in safety and get some way behind the Fall itself, the place was invested with a new charm, and ice, rheumatism, and the like, were set at defiance. I knew what it was in summer, and the winter journey did not seem very tempting; but there was no alternative, and the party returned to the mnseum to prepare for the descent. Whilst we were waiting for our waterproof dresses to go under the Falls, we had an opportunity of surveying the changes produced by winter, and I was the more persuaded that the effect is not so favourable as that of summer. The islands are covered with snow — that which divides the sweep of the cataract looking unusually large; the volume of water, diminished in the front, is also de- prived of much of its impressive force by a decrease in the sound produced by its fall. The edges of the bank, covered with glistening slabs of ice, were not tempting to the foot, and could not be approached with the confidence with which they are trod by one of steady nerves when the actual brink is visible. There were some peculiarities, however, worthy of note; and in a brighter day, possibly the effect of the INSIDE THE FALLS. 15 summer. light on the vast ranges of icicles, and on the fantastic shapes into which the snow is cut on the rocks at the margin of the waters, might be very beautiful. Tliese rocks now looked like a Hock of polar bears, twined in fantastic attitudes, or extended singly and in groups by the brink as if watching for their prey. Aljove them rose the bank, now smooth and polished, with a fringe of icicles — some large as church steeples ; above them, again, the lines of the pine-trees, draped in white, and looking like church steeples too. At one side, near Table Eock, the icicles were enormous, and now and then one fell with a hissing noise, and was dashed on the rock into a thousand gliding ice arrows, or plunged into the gulf. By this time our toilette-room was ready, and each man, taking oflf his overcoat, was encased in a tarpaulin suit with a sou-wester. In this guise we descended the spiral staircase, which is carried in a perpendicular wooden column down the face of the bank near Table Rock, or what remains of it, to the rugged margin, formed of boulders now more slippery than glass. Our guide, a strapping specimen of negro or mulatto, in thick solid ungainly boots, planted his splay feet on them with certainty, and led us by the treacherous path down towards the verge of the torrent, which now seemed as though it were rushing from the very heavens. On our left boiled the dreadful caldron from which the gushing bubbles, as if overjoyed to escape, leaped up, and with glad effervescence rushed from the abyss which plummet never sounded. On our right towered the sheer precipice of rock, now overhanging us, and garnished with rows of giant teeth-like icicles. 40 CANADA. After a slow cautious advance along this doubtful path, yfc perceived that the thin edge of the cataract towards which we were advancing shot out from the rock, and left a space between its inner surface aud a bh\ck shining wall which it was quite possible to enter. There was no wind, the day was dull and raw, but the downright rush of the water created a wliirling current of air close to it which almost whisked away the breath ; and a vapour of snow, fine sleet, and w atery particles careered round the entrance to the recess, which no water kelpie would be venturesome or lonesome enough to select, except in the height of the season. On we thus went more and more slowly and cautiously, over the polished ice and rock, till at last we had fairly got behind the cataract, and enjoyed the pleasure of seeing the solid wall of water falling, falling, falling, with the grand monotony of eternity, so nigh that one fancied he could almost touch it with his hand. When last I was here, it was possible to have got as far as a ledge called Termination Rock ; but the ice had accumulated to such an extent that the guide declared the attempt to do so would be impracticable or dangerous, and indeed where we stood was not particularly safe at the moment. As I was in the cave, gazing at the downpoured ruin of waters with a sense of security as great as that of a trout in a mill-race, an icicle from the clifif above cracked on the rocks outside, and threw its fragments inside the passage. I own the desire I had to get on still further and pierce in behind the cataract, where its volume was denser, was greater than the gratification I derived from getting so far. But we had reached our ultima thule, and, with many a lingering look, retraced our steps — now and then 1 the fa I If the! more am in WhJ therefc minatij frost, tl one ha so ther path 01 going- and th we em a photo Poor in win making omittec feather raeme selectei needed re mem a with< matter office > As Ameri overco under It can u I'HOTOGIIAI'HS AND BAZA A U. 47 then halting to contend the better with tlie gusts from the fulls, which threaten to sweep one from the ledge. If the foot once slipped, I cannot conceive a death more rapid : life would die out with the thought, " I am in the abyss ! " ere a cry could escape. Whilst returning, another icicle fell near at hand; therefore it is my humble opinion that going to Ter- mination Rock in winter is not safe except in hard frost, the safer plan being not to go at all. And yet no one has ever been swept or has slipped in, I believe, and so there is a new sensation to be had very easily. The path on our return seemed worse than it was on our going — a very small slippery ridge indeed between us and the gulf; but danger there can be but little. As we emerged from the wooden pillar we submitted to a photographer for our portraits in waterproof. Poor man ! In summer he has a harvest, perhaps ; in winter he gleans his corn with toil and sorrow, making scenes for stereoscopes. I am not aware that we omitted anything proper to be done ; for we purchased feather fans — the griffs did — and beadwork and other "mementoes of the Falls," which are certainly not selected for any apposite quality. As if the Falls needed a bunch of feathers and beads to keep them in remembrance ! Well, many a time has a lock of hair, a withered flower, the feeblest little atom of substantial matter, been given as memento ere now, and done its office well. As I passed by Clifton House on my return to the American side, I observed a solitary figure in a Jjlue overcoat and brass buttons, pacing rapidly up and down under cover of the verandah. Who on earth could it be ? It can't be — yes it is — it is, indeed, our excellent guardian 48 CANADA. of British customs rights and revenues — good Mr. . The kindly old Scotchman stares in surprise when he hears his name from an unknown passer-by, but in a moment he remembers our brief acquaintance in sum- mer time. Every one who knows him would, I am sure, be glad, with me, to hear that some better post were got for Mr. in his old age than that of watching smugglers on the waters of the St. Lawrence, below Niagara. After a brief interview, we proceeded on our way, and continued our explorations. Due honour was paid to the Rapids, Bath Island, Goat Island, the Cave of the Winds, Prospect Tower, and all the water lions of the place, though rain and sleet fell at intervals all the time when there was no snow. When the Prince was here he laid the last stone of the obelisk which marks the place where Brock was killed, in the successful action against the Americans at Queens- town in 1812. The present monument to that general is certainly in as good taste as most British designs of the sort, and seems but little open to the censure I have heard directed against it. Its predecessor was so atro- ciously bad, that some gentleman of fine feelings in art, who was probably an American and a Canadian patriot as well, blew it up some years ago. There are not wanting at the present time many men in Canada of the same stuff as Brock and his men. It is astonishing to find the easy and universal con- viction prevailing in the minds of Americans, contrary to their experience, that the conquest of Canada would be one of the most natural and facile feats in the world. Except in their first war, when they displayed energy and skill in the attack on Quebec, the active operations AMERICAN SIDE OF THE PALLS. 49 VIr. . when he , but in a I in sum- . am sure, [)ost were watcliing ce, below way, and 3 paid to ve of the ns of the s all the )ne of the killed, in Queens- eneral is us of the e I have so atro- s in art, a patriot le many nis men. sal con- ontrary a would e world, energy eratious of the Republicans in Canada were not marked by any military excellence, notwithstanding the very hard, fights which took place, but they showed them- selves most formidable opponents when they were attacked in position. The Canadian side of the Falls boasts of charming scenery. Even in the snow, the neat cottages and houses — the plantations, gardens, and shrubberies — evince a degree of taste and comfort which were not so observable on the American side, notwithstanding the superior activity of the population. Our observations on our return to the right bank of the river confirmed my impression concerning the diminished volume and effect of the cataract. The ice, formed by spray, hung over the torrent, >vhich, always more broken and less ponderous than that on the other side, is ir summer very beautiful, by reason of the immense variety of form and colour in the jets and cas- cades, and of the ease with which you can stand, as it were, amid the very waters of Niagara. The town half populated ; the monster hotel closed ; the swimming-baths, in which one could take a plunge into the active rapids safely enclosed in a perforated room, now fastened up for winter, — presented a great contrast to the noise and bustle of the American Niagara in the season. This is the time when the Indians enable the shopkeepers to accumulate their stores of bead and feather work; and a iew squaws, dressed in a curious compromise between the garments of the civilised female and the simpler robes of the " untutored savage," flitted through the snow from one dealer to another with their work. In some houses they are regularly employed all day, and come in from 50 CANADA. their village in the morning and go home at night when their work is done. The view of the Rapids from the upper end of Goat Island is not, to my mind, as fine as that obtained from the island on the British side higher up. The sight of that tortured flood, loaded with its charging lines of "sea horses,'* — its surging glistening foam- heaps streaking the wide expanse which rolled towards us from a dull leaden horizon, — was inexpressibly grand and gloomy, and struck me more forcibly than the aspect of the Rapids had done in August, when I be- held them in a setting of rich green landscape and forest. On the whole, I would much rather, were I going to Niagara for the first time, select the Canadian side for my first view. It would be well never to look at the Falls, if that were possible, till the traveller could open his eyes from the remnant of the Table Rock on the Great Horseshoe; but curiosity will probably defeat any purpose of that kind. Still, the Horseshoe is grand enough to grow on the spectator day after day, even if there be some disappointment in the first aspect. The noise, though it shake the earth and air, is not of the violent overwhelming character which raight have been expected from its effect on window-panes and shuttcsrs. As the voice of a man can be heard in the din of battle by those around him, so can even the low tones of a clear speaker be distinguished most readily close to the brink of a cataract, the roar of which at times is very audible, nevertheless, from twelve to fif- teen miles away. The only drawback to a sojourn on the Canadian side is, perhaps, the feeling of irritatiou or unrest pro- duced become slum be powerf affectcc the grc terrible mspirir latter had nig mendoi column it plung foaming minute, and me dron, w for eve: really n triangle feet wt green, ^ light er portion It w any on cannot immens the Ho which i were re grand i leap en PICTURESQUENESS OF THE FALL3. 51 (liiced by the ceaseless jar and tumult of the Falls, which become well nigh unbearable at night, and vex one's slumbers with unquiet dreams, in which water plays a powerful part. The American side is not so much affected in that way. The Horseshoe presents by far the greatest mass of -water; its rush is grander — the terrible fathomless gulf into which it falls is more awe- inspiring than anything on the American side; but the latter offers to the visitor greater variety of colour — I had nigh said of substance — in the water. At its first tre- mendous blow on the seething surface of the basin, the column of wt'ier seems to make a great cavern, into which it plunges bodily, only to come up in myriad millions of foaming particles, very small '• -ght, and distinct, like minute, highly-polished shot. These gradually expand and melt into each other after a wild darce in the cal- dron, which boils .:.nd bubbles with its awful hell-broth for ever. In the centre of the Horseshoe, which is really more the form of two sides of an obtuse-angled triangle, the water, being of great depth — at least thirty feet where it falls over the precipice — is of an azure green, which contrasts well with the yellow, white, and light emerald colours of the shallower and more broken portions nearer the sides. It would be considered rather presumptuous in any one to think of improving upon Niagara, but I cannot help thinking that the effect would be increased immensely if the island which divides the cataract into the Horseshoe and the American Falls, and the rock which juts up in the latter and subdivides it unequally, were removed or did not exist ; then the river, in one grand front of over one thousand yards, would make its leap en masse. The American Falls are destitute of the 6E CANADA. beauty given by the curve of the leap to the Horseshoe ; they descend perpendicularly, and are lost in a sea of foam, not in an abyss of water, but in the wild con- fusion of the vast rocks which are piled up below. But they are still beautiful exceedingly, and there is more variety of scene in the islands, in the passage over the bridges to Goat Island and to the stone tower, which has been built amid the very waters of the cataract, so that one can stand on the outside gallery and look down upon the Falls beneath. Goat Island is happily intersected with good drives and walks, laid out with sufficiently fair taste through the natural forest, and seats are placed ;tt intervals for the accommodation of visitors. It is no dispa- ragement to the manner in which the grounds have been ornamented to say that a good English landscape gardener would convert the island into the gem of the world. The ornamentation need not be overdone ; it should be congruous and in keeping with the Falls, which nature has embellished with such infinity of colouring. As it is, the island is much visited. Strange enough, the softest whispered vows can be heard amid the thunder of Niagara, and it is believed that many marriages owe their happy inspiration to inadvertent walking and talking in these secluded yet much- haunted groves. Sawmills, papermills, and manufac- tories delight the utilitarian as he gazes on the Rapids which have so long been wasting their precious water- power, and it is not unlikely that a thriving town may grow up to distressing dimensions on the American side of the stream, at all events. CHAPTER IV. licavo Niagara — Suspension Bridge — In British territory — Hamilton City — Buildings— Proceed eastward— Toronto — Dine at Mess — Pay visits — Public edifices — Sleighs — Amusement of the boys — Oamaraderie in the army — Kindly feeling displayed — Journey resumed towards Quebec — Intense cold- -now landscape — Morn- ing in the train — Hunger and lesser troubles — Kingston, its rise and military position — Harbour, dockyards — Its connection with the Prince of Wales' Tour — The Upper Si. Lawrence — Canada as to defence. We left the Falls with regret— the "city of the Falls" without any painful emrUon. The people at the hotel were perfectly civil and obliging, though they bore no particular goodwill, perhaps, to one whom they had been taught to regard as the bitter enemy and tra- ducer of their country and their cause. Our guide seemed to pity us for our folly in going to such a place as Canada, when we could, if we liked, staj'^ in an American hotel in the States. He assured us it was "only fit for Irish, French- men, and free niggers." The true American of this type is perhaps the most prejudiced man in the world, not even excepting the old type of the British farmer, or men of the Sibthorp epoch. His conviction of his immense superiority is founded on the readiness with which others flock to serve him. By their service he becomes a sort of aristocrat in regard to all immigrants, m CANADA. and can live without having recourse to any menial oflBce or duty. I presume our hairy friend never brushed his boots in his life, and would sooner wear them dirty for ever than stoop to the unwonted task. At last came our time to depart. Our sleighs glided smoothly down to the railway station at the Clifton, where the train was waiting to take us over the Suspension Bridge. That structure is, I fear, too beautiful to last. It requires a good deal of coolness and custom to look down from it on the fearful flood of the river rolling below, and mark the vibration as a heavy train passes over it. Then, too, there is the influence of cold on iron to be con- sidered, the eff'ects of tension, and the like : all have been duly provided for ; and yet the bridge looks very light and very graceful, and let us hope it may be very strong and very lasting. In five minutes we were in British territory. The first palpable and outward sign of the fact was an examination of our luggage by the customs officers at a station a few miles from the frontier, during which, or by which, one of the party lost a hat and its guardian box. The exami- nation was rendered as little irksome as possible by the civility of the officials ; and it made me quite happy to see the crowns on their brass buttons, degraded British subject as I was. One burly fellow congra- tulated me on " escaping alive out of the hands of the Yankees — he would not have given a cent for my life for the last six months." Our journey was not so much impeded by snow as we expected. It is forty -three miles from Niagara to the rising city of Hamilton, and we were little more than one hour and a quarter in doing the distance. All HAMILTON. 55 ' menial d never ler wear ed task. railway liting to tructure a good )m it on id mark Then, be con- all have )ks very be very ?he first liuation a a few ich, one exami- ible bv » 3 happy ^graded congra- I of the my life y snow S^iagara le more le. All I am aware of is that on our w e passed through vast snow-fields, by the mineral wa )f St. Catherine's, the frozen canal, and that we cai at glimpses on our right of the blue expanse of Lp^ Ontario. The first sight of Hamilton .lused a rapid change in my mind respecting the condition of Canada, and a most agreeable feeling of surprise. It was evident the Ameri- cans were not justified in their affected depreciation of the provinces, if they contained such towns as these. Despite the unfavourable circumstances under which it was visited, the city presented an appearance of comfort and prosperity which even a democratic people might envy, and which scarcely justified the corporation in refusing, as I hear they do, to rely on local sources for liquidation of certain claims against then. Fine-looking streets, a forest of spires, important public buildings, did no discredit to the old standard whicu floated over the Custom-house near the station. And yet it was not possible to help remarking that the passengers in the train were reading American not Canadian newspapers. They were enjoying the fruits of American piracy in their more serious studies. The literary thefts of the sanctimonious Harpers, who play for ever on the moods and tenses of the verb to steal — were in the hands of all the people who were reading books. Not alone the British flag did we see at Hamil- ton, but the British soldier; for at the doorway of the hotel were two well-known faces. A bat- talion of the Rifle Brigade was expected every moment, and two officers had been sent on to provide for their reception, as there were no barracks to receive the force, and they were hunting up house-owners to 66 CANADA. let their premises on the instant. It may be imagined that house-owners take a favourable view for them- selves of the value of property thus suddenly in requcr*^^; and the officers were proportionately indignant with those griping Canadians, as if they would have met diflferent treatment from English colonists anywhere. Hamilton is a city of some 20,000 inhabitants. It is on a baj' (H'irlington), which runs in at the west of Lake O "r-rio north of the peninsula formed by the lake, by it v 3i Lawrence, by Lake Erie, and by the river falling into J'« e at Maitland. It is on the rail between the west from Detroit and London, the south- east from the States, and the east from Toronto, Mon- treal, and Quebec. In event of war it is exposed to an attack by any American gunboat from the harbours on the south shore of Lake Ontario, and yet, to the best of my belief, it is utterly destitute of defence, and has not even a martello tower for its protection. The name is not fifty years old, and twenty j^ears ago Hamilton had less than 4000 inhabitants. Its growth bears no comparison with that of some American cities, but it is still very remarkable, and its wealth, importance, and defencelessness are quite sufficient to make it an object of attack. The houses are built of stone. Banks, hotels, manufactories, churches — well constructed and handsome — give proof of the prosperity of the community ; and the residence there of Sir Alan MacNab, who lived somewhere in the vicinity in a bran new mediaeval castle, should be some guarantee for their loyalty. Indeed, I was told that in no place had the Prince a more gratifying or enthusiastic reception. But men without discipline, organisation, or defensive works can do but little against gunboats. It is true nagined r thera- lit with Lve met rhere. its. It west of by the by the !ihe rail ; south- , Mon- d to an )urs on best of las not r years Its lerican n^ealth, ient to uilt of — well perity r Alan 1 bran ee for e had ption. ensive s true TORONTO. 57 that Hamilton would not be of much service to tho enemy, as it would not command the communications ; but its possession by them would be very embarrassing, and its destruction, for lack of means to defend it, woukl be very discreditable. The population ought to yield at least 4000 able-bodied men for local service ; and a casemated work, armed with powerful guns, could keep a mere mischief-seeking gunboat at proper dis- tance, and save the place from destruction or injury. Our halt at Hamilton was brief, and soon we were on our way eastwards once more, skirting the shor^^ of the lake, fenced in by a monotonous line of snow- id( a fir trees and palings. The people who got in a' d owh at the stations were of a different race from the Americans — stouter and ruddier of hue, and mary of them spoke with a Scotch or Irish accent, the former predominating. They did not talk much about diything but the weather, and did not give themselves concern about anything except the winter and its prospects, having made up their minds long ago that there was to be no fight between England and the United States. Just as itr became dusk we reached Toronto, having accomplished the thirty-eight miles in two hours, but late as it was we could make out the picturesque out- lines of a large city. Close to the station a line of sleighs, and a mass of well-dressed people drawn up by the margin of a sheet of ice, on which a skated crowd were whirling about, gave an air of gaiety to the place. A sharp smart sleigh drive, and we were at the com- fortable hotel, called Rossin House, where an invitation from the officers of Her Majesty's 30th to dinner was awaiting us. They were quartered in a substantial 58 CANADA. old-fashioned barrack on the shore of lake Ontario, some distance outside the city. The barracks are surrounded by an earthen parapet, provided with traverses and embrasures, and there is a very quaint and fantastic earthen redoubt on the beach, but any ordinary vessel of war could lay the whole establish- ment in ruins with perfect impunity in half-an-hour. Tlie mess table was surrounded bv an unusual number of old Crimean officers, and 1 vvas glad to find the fears I had entertained that the inducements offered by the Americans to soldiers to desert, had not as yet given any considerable increase to the tendency in that direction, wliich causes such anxiety to regi- ii.ental officers stationed near the frontier. Whilst I remained at Toronto, I dined daily at the same hos- pitable board. A snapping fierce wind, laden with icy arrows, set in the day after our arrival. In the afternoon, however, I sleighed out and visited the bishop, one of the most lively, agreeable men conceivable, of the age of ninety or thereabouts ; Mr. Brown, who is one of the powers of the State, and the editor and owner of the ablest paper in West Canada ; the mayor, and other Torontians of eminence. The city is so very surprising in the extent and excellence of its public edifices, that I was fain to write to an American friend at New York to come up and admire what had been done in architecture under a monarchy, if he wished to appreciate the horrible state of that branch of the fine arts under his democracy. Churches, cathedrals, market, post office, colleges, schools, mechanics' institute, rise in imperial dignity over the city j but there was a visible deterioration in TARBOGGININO. 59 the beer and billiard saloons, and the drinking ex- changes. The shops are large, and well furnished with goods, and trade even now is brisk enough, considering the time of the year. All this is within an enemy's grasp, and more than this, the command of the railway cast and west. In this winter time the streets are filled with sleighs, and the air is gay with the caroling of their bells. Some of these vehicles are exceedingly elegant in form and finish, and are provided with very expensive furs, not only for the use of the occupants, but for mere display. The horses are small spirited animals, of no great pretension to beauty or breeding. The people in the streets were well-dressed, comfortable-looking, well-to-do — not so tall as the people in New York, but stouter and more sturdy-looking. Their winter brings no discomfort ; for fuel is abundant and not dear, and when the wind is not blowing high, the weather is very agreeable. Here, again, I observed that the young people have a curious custom of going about with small sleighs, which are, to the best of my belief, called " tar- boggins," though I did not see them indulge in the practice by which the youth of New York vex and fret the drivers of all vehicles in sleighing-time. I have been amused by observing the urchins in the Empire City prowling about with these primitive sleighs, watch- ing for an opportunity to exercise their talents. For- tunate it is for the British coachman that the youth of these islands are not acquainted with this pleasing mode of locomotion. Our omnibuses, having a con- ductor behind, would be better defended than the American vehicles, which have no such protection j but (50 CANADA. * the four-wlieclcd cabs would fall a helpless prey into their Itaiids. The sport is carried on in this wise: the youths take their tarbogj^in or sleij^h — a flat piece of board four feet lon{^, with or without runnerM, will do; tlirouj^h a hole at one end is attached a piece of cord. The boys watch their opportunity, and when a vehicle passes, noiselessly on the snow they run out, slip the cord over the iron or any projection of the carriage behind, and, holding the end fast, throw themselves down on their sleigh, which is dragged along by the vehicle ; and if cabby should arise in his wrath, in an instant the end of the cord is let go, and the young navigator, starting to his feet, runs off with his instru- ment of torture in search of a new victim. It adds much to this entertainment for one bov to catch hold of the leg or the sleigh of another boy, so that a string of four or five youths may be seen in full enjoyment of the recreation. Bless them ! If I had not seen them following this sport, I should have fairly doubted if there were any boys in the United States. If there was not all the cordiality which could be desired between the natives and the military, no fault could be found with the full measure of hospi- tality dealt out to their own countrymen by the officers of the garrison. Removed from the stiffness of home stations, the genial, kindly character of our young soldiers expatiates, in despite of middling cookery and colonial wines, and keeps open house for friends on foreign service. When sleighing for the day is over, and the skating party has come to an end, it is hard indeed for poor Jones to think of anything more than his dinner ; but if he made the most of his opportunities, THE FIIENCII AND THE ENGLISH SERVICE. Gl he might write a book in the solitude of his burrack, as those famous prisoners have dojie whose brains have conceived and brouj;ht forth such brilHant works in tlie darkness of the Tower. The snows are well nigh as binding and environ- ing for a third of the year in bad seasons, and no doubt something would come of it all, but that the officer has his duties to 'attend to, and cannot escape from Private lOOO's stoppages, grievances, or failings. Now, it is no easy matter indeed for IJritish officers to he very great friends in the same regiment. Of course you will find Pyladcs and Orestes there, but you may be sure if you do they are men who have no clashing interests, no contest of p"rses, no conflicting views about leave or steps. It is to me quite wonderful, all things considered, how bravely the natural kindliness of our officers contends against a system which, with all its advantages, creates a source of rivalry and jealousy not known in other services. In a promotion-by-seniority service there can of course be no feeling against a man on the part of his juniors because he happens to be older; but no one can well brook the greater fortune which depends on the comn.and of money, — though he may be willing to seize on it, if he can, by the same means, — in the case of his own juniors. I do not speak without some small knowledge when I say that there is a much larger amount of camaraderie in our service than ought to be found in it, but that there is much less than exists in some other armies. The French officer is jealous oi the man promoted by merit, for the declara- tion of that superiority is a tacit censure on himself, 62 CANADA. and he is also prone to take umbrage at the good fortune of the immortels of the Etat major; but he nas little ground for antipathy to any of his own set, as regards social position or military rank in the corps. Our strong love of field-sports also tends to create small difficulties when at home, from which spring other causes of estrangement. One man, for instance, wants to get to the spring-meeting when another is burning for the spring-fishing — shooting leaves and hunting-leaves clash together, though in no army in the world is there such a liberal system of furlough as in our own. These causes do not operate in Canada, where there is now, in fact, bul little sport of any kind within easy distances. Moose shooting in snow is slow work, and for other game the sportsman must wander far and wide. But when the table is set, and the full tide of conversation flows, what a cheery group of warriors, young and old, may be seen in Canadian quarters ! They have had sleighing parties and skating adventures, and altogether have got over the day somehow, and are prepared to look pleasantly on the world, albeit the snow is two feet deep over it. As to the position afforded by the buildings in these particular old barracks in Toronto, no more uncomfort- able place could well be imagined in face of an enemy. The defences are so ludicrous, that a Chinese engi- neer would despise them. Certainly, we have no right to laugh at Americans, or to hold their works in petto, if we take one glance at the fortifications of Toronto ; and yet, as will be seen, it is a place of the very greatest importance. My stay here would have been longer, perhaps, but that I was informed of a very kindly intention on ;he good but he own set, le corps. create 1 spring n stance, other is ves and army in furlough srate in le sport oting in ortsman table is ^vhat a seen in parties ot over asantlj over it. in these omfort- eneln3^ engi- lo right n petto, pronto ; greatest erhaps, tion on DEPARTURE FROM TORONTO. 63 the part of the people which I did not desire to have carried out, at all events under the existing circum- stances — being in hopes that a future opportunity would occur of proving that I was not indifferent to the good leeling and very flattering sentiments of the gentlemen Avho had commenced the movement towards myself: and so, in the sure hope that I would be back in Toronto ere I left America, I bade my good friends good-bye, never, as it proves, in all likelihood, to see them again, and, in the midst of a snow-fall, resumed my journey with my companions towards Quebec. After undergoing a year of obloquy, ill-looks, slander, and popular disfavour in a great country, it was very pleasant to meet with such marks of goodwill and kindness from one's countrymen and fellow-subjects on the same continent j and it was quite as gratifying to know that such fedings were entertained by them, as it would have been to receive the outward token of their existence, which alone would have contented mv friends. The evening on which I left Toronto was intensely cold. Never for a moment had the snow and frost relented, and a wind of piercing keenness swept up the frozen dust in thick clouds, which penetrated every chink. The railway officials did their best for us, and the stove in the carriage was poked up to exces* ive energy ; but the heat of these calorifiers is worse than cold itself. Our way lay through a snow-field bordered by snow-hills, or by the stiflf cones of snow -covered firs. Our fellow-passengers were big men in fur-coats and thick boots, who were given to silence and sleep. Slowly the train creaked through the soft barrier which so gently yet stiffly, opposed the tramp of the iron 64 CANADA. horse. The landscape was simply nothing to see. It looked as if one were going for ever through a vast array of newly-washed siieets spread over the whole country. Darkness fell suddenly out of the skies on the whiteness, but still could not darken it. The whiteness shone through the depths of night, and flashed out in streaks of dazzling light, as the flare of the engine-fires and of the lamps shot out over the surface. And so it came to pass that at last we went to sleep, gathering up rug and greatcoat and wrapper into vast mounds, from which issued many a spiriiua asper and susurrous sounds for the livelong night. On waking up it seemed as though day had just dawned, but the watch said it was nearly eight o'clock. A cold white light, filled with rime, bat- tled through the frost on the windows of the car- riage, which was spread over the glass like beautiful damascened white tablecloths. Scraping away a " lovely trellis pattern with my nail, I opened a space of clear transparent ocean in the ice-sea, and was rewarded for my pains by a view of a cloud of snow which had been falling all night, and now rested deep on the ground, and turned the pines and firs bounding the line of rail into ragged white tumuli. The train still creaked and bumped now and then over the snow, squeaked, puff'ed, and grated, and at last came to a standstill, again went on, and again halted. At last we reached a station. Seven hours behind time ! A sensation of hunger by no means slight fell upon us. Frost is an appetizi r of undoubted merit. We had neglected laying in a viaticum. More pru- dent and accustomed travellers produced flasks and brown-paper parcels, and all the wonderful things which not be men w unseem fast. My car, ree bodies lions, closed b stoves, c end, he who ore iron sur frowstv, deposit c And wat handful my face my seat part oft] delicious cigars, w It wa: that we of the a place cially, a there foi Fates or knowled in the steeples KINGSTON. 05 see. It I a vast e whole ikies on . The ht, and flare of ver the ve went wrapper spiriius tit. ay had y eight le, bat- he car- eaiitiful I way a space nd was snow d deep unding "w over at last lalted. Dchind cht fell merit, •e pru- cs and things which Americans consume on the voyage. Let me not be fastidious, however ; for after a time I envied men who were discussing pleasant]^ fragments of unseemly cakes, spice-nuts, and branay -balls for break- fast. My companions prowled up and down the horrid car, reeking with the stove-drawn odours of many bodies during the night — they sought food like young lions. Pah ! what an atmosphere it was ! — all windows closed bv reason of cold intense outside, the hateful stoves, one in the centre of the car, and one at each end, heated almost to redness, surrounded by men who crowded up, and chewed tobacco, and smote the iron surface with hissing burnt-sienna-coloured jets! — frowsty, fusty, and muggy exceedingly. There was a deposit of train-oil, — a hot humanised dew all over us. And water, there was none to wash with. So I applied a handful of snow gathered on the carr je platform to my fane Piud hands in lieu thereof, and got back to my seat just as A n returned from some distant part of the train with hands full of apples. They were delicious, and with three or four of them, and a few cigars, we managed to construct a charming breakfast. It was so dark when the train reached Kingston, that we could see nothing; more than the outlines of the station. 1 was exceedingly anxious to visit a place of so much importr nee historically, commer- cially, and strategically, and fully intended to remain there for some days on my return to Toronto ; but tiie Fates ordained that it was not to be, and all ray personal knowledge of Kingston was derived from that glimpse iu the dark of the railway terminus, and certain steeples and spires rising above the snow. But the it Gi) CANADA. positic of tl'o city confers upon it a very bigb piaoe ou the list of military posts tv. r the defence of Car.ii'Jfi, pad some considerations connected with it will be discussed liereafter. Politically Kingston Has become a dead body since 184i, when its short-lived career as the capital and seat of governme' t was cut short. The military genius of the French occupants in early days, in seizing on the best positions for the defence and maintenance of their conquest, is shown still, by the fact that our forts occupy the sites of those which were originally constructed bv the.n. More than a hundred vcars before there was any trace of a city at Kingston, or any building save the wigwam of the Indian or the log-huts of the soldiery, the Count de Frontenac built a fort in communication with the great system, from the St. Lawrence to the Ohio, of the Fioncli strongholds, which was destined to extend to the Mississippi, and to enclose the troublesome English Colonies within stringent limits. When this fort was captured by Colonel Bradstreet in 1756, the Frearh had only established a kind of military colony and a very insignificant trading-post round the fort. In little more than twenty years sul ; eouently, the present town was founded; and in the var with America the place became of very great consequence. It is a fact curious enough, and worthy of some con- sideration, that the great war in the middle of the last century, which ended in the loss to France of her hopes of Indian influence and of empire, and in the seizure of her American Colonies by Great Britain, should have, according to the best of American statesmen and philosophical reasoncrs, led also to the establishment of i ;]» 1 Un^e oil muda^ and ; discussed body since apital and B military , in seizing [tintenance t that our originally Ired years ngston, or ian or the Frontenac at system, p Fionch d to the e English s fort was 'reurh had ,nd a very In little sent town the place some con- )f the last her hopes seizure of )uld have, men and shment of THE HAIIBOUE, ETC. 67 the United States, and the foundation of the greatest Republic the world has ever seen. Kingston commands the entrance to the Rideau Canal, one of the principal means of communication betweeri Lake Ontario and the interior of the country, forming an admirable connection between the Ottawa River and Lake Ontario : it is, in fact, the most important means of inland intercourse, because the difficulties in the way of an enemy are very considerable, either in a direct attack upon Kingston, if properly fortified, or in a flank movement against it from the interior. The canal is brought into working order with the Grand Trunk Railway ; so that if the American?^ our only possible enemy, were to make demonstrations against our frontier and our lines, with a view of intercepting our supplies and internal relations between the east and west of the province, it would be easy to disembark men and munitions at Kingston Mills and forward them by railway. Kingston, again, is an excel- lent point of observation, and with proper defences and aggressive resources, ought to command Lake Ontario and the entrance from the St. Lawrence. An adequate force stationed there, with a proper flotilla, could effectually keep in check any hostile demonstration from Cape Vincent, Sacket^s Harbour, or the other posts from Oswego to the western extremity of Lake Ontario, The harbour is said to be excellent ; there is a uockyard, which could be rendered capable of doing most of the work required for our light gunboats ; and with the additions pointed out and urged by our en- gineer officers to the existing fortifications, Kingston could be made a position of as much military f2 1 1' 08 CANADA. strength as it undoubtedly now is of strategical im- portance. Between Toronto and Kingston there are, however, Port Hope, Coburg, and Belville on tlie line of railway, all of which present facilities for the landing of an enemy : at any one of these points a hostile occupation would cut the regular communications at once; and indeed it is very much to be regretted, in a military point of view, that engineering, commercial, or other considerations caused the makers of the Grand Trunk Railway to run the line close to the shores of a great inland sea, the opposite side of which belongs to a foreign country which has from time to time fin- nounced (if not through the lips of statesmen, by the popular voice) that the conquest of Canada is a fixed principle in its policy. The Americans, whether by accident or design, have constructed the New York Central, which runs along the south coast, at a distance of many miles from Lake Ontario, but cross-lines c nnect it with the principal port& upon the lake, from Buffalo to Sandusky ; their line vans tolerablv close to the shore of Lake Erie higher up, but thf;re is no position on that lake which has to fear the aggression of such a force as could be collectea ut Kingston. Perhaps to the generality of people in England, Kingston was first made known by the unpleasant incidence which compelled the Prince of Wales to pass it unvisited, or rather to remain on board the steamer. No doubt the Orangemen are now very sorry for what t^iey 4jd, oud, in fact, feel that they were led by the fanaticif m ?vi* the desire for notoriety of some small local leaders to make themselves very ridiculous and offcns no d( of Iriii their ThJ their tical, such religio being t ical im- lowcver, niihvay, g of an pupation ce; and military or other d Trunk '68 of a longs to time an- 1, bv the s a fixed gn, have IS along »m Lake principal V ; their like Erie e Avhich ould be Ingland, [pleasant to pass steamer. For what by the |e small )us and THE RAILWAY LINES. 69 offensive. The zeal of these Defenders of the Faith was no doubt stimulated by the presence of a large number of Irish Roman Catholics, Avho are at least as violent as their opponents. The French-Canadians, with just as much fidelity to tlieir faith, do not enter into the violent polemical, poli- tical, and miscalled religious controversies which led to such an unseemly result at Kingston ; and certainly, it is much to be regretted that the peculiar influence of American institutions, which checks any attempt of religious parties to disturb the public peace or social relations for their own purposes and for the gratification of pride or lust of power, cannot be extended to the provinces and to the British Possessions, where they work such prodigious mischief. From Kingston the line winds along the shore of the great lake-like river, studded with a thousand islands. Here, again, the Americans would possess considerable advantage in case of war, as their main-line is far inland, but branch-lines from it lead to Cape Vincent and Ogdensburgh, at right-angles to our line of commu- nication. The American water-boundary, I believe, passes outside a considerable number of the more important islands ; but the power which possesses naval supremacy on Lake Ontario will probably find the means of commanding the Upper St. Lawrence, no matter which belligerent establishes himself on the islands. The Canadians with whom I conversed in the tj ■ in declared they were quite ready to defend their country in case of invasion, but did not understand, tlicy said, being taken away to distant points to tight for the homes of others. It seemed quite clear to them that 1 j» » ' § : ^ 1 1 t 70 CANADA. the United States would only invade Canada to hu- miliate and weaken the mother-country, and that the general defence of the province ought to devolve on the power whose policy had led to the war ; whilst the inhabitants should be ready to give the imperial troops every assistance in the localities where they are actually resident. to hu- hat the olve on lilst the I troops actually CHAPTER V. Arrive Jit Cornwall — Tho St. Lawrence- Oossip on India — Aspect of the country — Montreal — The St. Lawrence Hall Hotel — Story of a Guardsman — Burnside — Dinner — Refuse a banquet — Flags —Climate — Salon-iX-manijer — Contrast of Americans and English —Sleighs— The "Driving Club"— Tho Victoria Bridge— Uneasy feeling — Monument to Irish emigrants — Irish character — Montreal and New York — The Rink — Sir F. Williaius — Influence of the Northernere. It was noon ere we reached Cornwall, a place some seventy miles from Montreal, where a rough restaurant at the station enabled us to make a supplement to the deficiencies of our simple repast. The people who poured in and out of the train here were fine rough-looking fellows, with big, broad, sallow faces and large beards, wrapped up in furs, wearing great long boots, — men of a new type. Several of them were speaking in French ; but the literature which travelled along with us was American, mostly New York, in the matter of periodicals : it was of course English, and pirated, in the more substantial forms. The frost still clung to the outside of the windows ] inside, the foliage and broad tracery of leaves, and cathedral aisles, and plumes of knight and lady, tumbled down in big drops, and by degrees the nun cleared away the crust on one side, so that we could look out on the flat expanse of snow-covered forest. n CANADA. On our right, now and then glimpses could be caught of a pale blue riband-like streak across the dazzling white plain. "That's the St. Lawrence you see there. Pitty it's friz up so long. We wouldn't envy the Yankees anything they've got to bliow us if we had a port open all the year," quoth an honest Canadian beside nie. For the first time 1 ))cgan to feel sym- pathy for a country that "can't get out" for five mortal months, and that breathes through another man's nostrils and mouth. A horrible semi-suffocated sort of existence. No wonder the Canadians look longingly over at that ])it of land which Lord Ashburton yielded to the United States and the State of Maine. A n and I, by way of counteracting the influence of the atmosphere and external scenery, talked of India. Some poor creatures half the Avorld's girth away, whom we were speaking of at that moment, would have given a good deal for some of the despised ice and snow around us, groaning no doubt under that sun which even in February knows no coolness in Cential India in mid-day. How oddly things turn up ! I had ever firmly believed that a young soldier friend of mine had slain many enemies in that great rebeliicn, and had, Aehillos-like, sent many souls of sepoys to Hades, and so in that faith speaking, suddenly 1 was interrupted by A n. "What are you talking of? He kill so 7nany budmashes at Nulla-Nullah \ Why, I don't believe he ever fired a shot or made a cut at a nigger in his life." Mij fierce little friend had done both, and many a time and oft. And so, as he knew, away went a reputation, within thirty miles of Montreal; thermometer 10°. V MONTREAL. 73 caught lazzliiig e there, ivy the i had a :iuadiau el syn- for five another (ibcated IS look I Lord c State ifluence Iked of h awav. Id have cc and at sun entxal I had ' mine n, and ladcs, rupted kill so don't ligger both, way treal ; Hereabouts were seen many snug homesteads rising up through tlie snow, with farmhouses, and outhouses — all clad in the same livery. The country looked well cleared and settled ; sleighs glided over the surface, and were drawn lip at the stations to carry passengers and luggage. Anon we came upon a great frozen river, and crossed it by a series of arches too great for a bridge; but this was nevertheless the Ottawa itself rolling away under its ice coat, as the blood flows through an artery, to rush unseen into the cold em- brace of tlie St. Lawrence. These two great l)ridges must be worth visiting when they can be seen in the full exercise of their functions. The river forms au island here whieli the ice now continentalises. About four o'clock, very much as land looms up in the ocean, we saw the dark mass of Montreal rising up in contrast to the whitened mountain at the foot of which it lies; the masts of vessels frozen in, and funnels of steamers, mingled with steeples and domes ; and as the sun struck th'5 windows a thousand flashes of glowing red darted bad: upon us. Then the train ran past a ''marine factory,'' whatever that may be, and a suburb of stone and wooden houses inter- mixed, and a population of children whose faces looked preternaturally pale, perhaps from the reflection of the snow, and of women in pork-pie hats with thick veils over their faces, and of men, mostly smoking, in great fur coats and boots ; and at last the train reached the terminus, where a great concourse of sleigh-drivers, who spoke as though they hui that moment left Kings- town jetty, Ireland, claimed our body and property. These were promptly routed by the stafl* of the St. Lawrence Hall, who carried oflf our party to an omnibus IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET {MT-3) 1.0 I.I U£|2^ 12.5 ■ 50 ■^" ■■■ 1^ III 2.0 us Ui lis 1.8 1.25 1.4 III 1.6 ^ 6" ► V] (^ j^ m A ^ ^■r -?^ %%^,. '>> *>.!»^' /^ V ^ o^ Photograpmc Sciences Corporation mj i\ ,v •SJ \\ V 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 873-4503 ^4 /. ^ J'^. 4., ^ ^^ ifi v^o 1^'^ w 74 CANADA. f\ ■0 ithout wheels, which finally bore us off to the hotel so called. The soldiers about the streets were all comfortably clad in dark oveiooats, fur caps with flaps for the ears, and long boots ; but the dress takes from their height, and does not conduce to a smart soldier-like appearance. The streets through which we passed were lined with well-built lofty houses. It might scarce be fancy which made me think that Montreal was better built than American cities of the same size. In the great cold hall of the hotel there was excessive activity : befurred officers of the regiments sent to Canada during the Trent difficulty, before Mr. Seward had made up his mind and persuaded the Presi- dent tG give up the Southern envoys, were coming in, going out, or were congregated in the passage. Orderlies went to and fro with despatches and office papers. In fact the general-in-chief. Sir Eenwick "Williams of Kars, and staff, the commanding officer of the Guards, Lord G. Paulet, and staff, were quartered here, and carried on their office business ; and the Commissary- General, Power, and the Principal Medical Officer, Dr. Muir, were also lodging in the hotel, with a host of combatant officers of inferior grade. There was no rush to the table-dliote, after the American fashion, but the dinner itself was very much in the American style. I was much amused at the distress of a Guardsman who made his appearance at the doorway during dinner, with a letter in his hand for one of the officers. He halted stiffly at the threshold, and stood staring at the brilliancy of the splendid ormolu ornaments, and the array of lac- table-d'hote. 75 the hotel nfartably 5 for the ora their Idier-like ;re lined carce be as better In the excessive sent to '. Seward le Presi-' 1 coming passage, nd office Fenwick officer of uartered and the Medical , with a fter the ry much at the pearance in his Y at the of the of lac- quered chandeliers and covers. In vain the waiters pointed out to him the officer he sought ; he would not intrude on the gorgeous scene, nor would he trust his missive to another hand. At last, after gazing in a desperate manner on space, and balancing from one leg to another, he took a maddening resolve, put his hand to his cap, held the other out with the letter in it as his dumb apology and in mitigation of punish- ment, and marching straight to his mark, trampling crowds of waiters in his way, only halted when he came up to the table he sought, where, with eyeballs starting, he put the missive to the level of the captain's nose, saluted, and ejaculated, " By order of Colonel Jones, sir." "All right.'' With a wheel round and a salute, the perturbed warrior countermarched and escaped into the prosaic outward world. A Frenchman would have come in with the most perieot self-posses- sion, and possibly with some little grace. An American would probably have turned his chew, have addressed some remarks to the waiters on his way, have given the captain a tap on the back or a nudge of the elbow, and would rather have expected a drink. And which of the three, after all, is to be preferred ? I met a whole regiment of men I knew, and after dinner adjourned with some of them to my rooms. They all growled of course, found fault with Canada and abused the Government, and seemed to think it ought not to snow in winter. I received a most interesting letter from a friend of mine with the Burnside expedition, which revealed as large an amount of bad management as could well be conceived. Burnside, personally, has enough ingenuity, but is quite wanting in self-reliance, presence of mind, 76 CANADA. and vigour. The expedition from which so much was expected did more than might have been thought pos- sible at one time under the circumstances. A telegram from Toronto informed me that it was in contemplation to invite me to a public banquet, and desired me to state my wishes. Very much as I appreciated such an honour from my countrymen and fellow-subjects, it was inconsistent, as I conceived, with my position, as it certainly was with my sense of the merits attributed to rae, to accept the very great compliment offered to me. It came all tl 3 more agreeably as it was in such contrast to the manner in which I had been received in the United States for the last few months; and it touched me very sensibly, more than my friends at Toronto could have imagined. A n came in rather wroth about a matter of flags. He had been to see some Frenchmen, whether real or true Zouaves of the Crimea I know not, who gave out on tremendous posters that they were the identical children of the Beni Zoug Zoug, who had acted before us all in that theatre on the Woronzow Road once so charming and well filled ; and he had been seized with indignation because they, in that Canadian city, under the British flag, had dared to perform under the folds of the tricolor, and the stars and stripes of the United States. I explained that the British flag was metaphorically and properly supposed to float above both ; all which much comforted him, and so to bed — cold enough, in despite of stoves and open fire. The servants here are Irish men and women, with a sprink- ling of free negroes. Next day the weather was not at all warmer. In winter time the cold is bv no means unbearable in this ENGLISH AND AMERICANS. 77 Canadian clime, when one is well furred and clad ; to the poor it must be very trying, for furs and fuel are dear, and even clothing of an ordinary kind is not cheap. The emigrant, in his rude log hut open in many chinks, must shrink and shiver and suffer in the blast. What do they, who follow, not owe to the hardy explorer who has opened up wood and mountain, and laid down paths on the sea for them ? A thick haze had now settled down on all things, a cold freezing rime, which clung and crept to one, and almost sat down on the very hearth. Descending the stairs, which were in a transition state and in the hands of carpenters, to the long " salon-k-manger," I found the tables well filled by guardsmen, riflemen, and members of the staff, military and civil, who gave the place the air of a mess-room under disorderly cir- cumstances. I had before this seen many such rooms in American hotels in cities filled with soldiery, and I am bound to say the difference between the two sets of men was remarkable. The noise, gaiety, and life of these grave English were exuberant when compared to the silence ' f American gatherings of the same kind, which are, indeed, disturbed by the clatter of plates and dishes, and the hoir^ble squeaking of chair legs over the polished floors, but otherwise are quiet enough. Here, men laughed out, talked loud, shouted to the waiters, aired their lungs in occasional scoldings and objurga- tions, having reference to chops and steaks and tardy- coming dishes ; " old-fellowed '* their friends ; asked or told the news. I don't know that the Englishmen were better looking, taller, or in any physical way had the advantage of the men of the continent, except in 78 CA^'ADA. ruddier cheeks perhaps, and in frames better provided with cellular tissue ; but the distinction of style and manner was marked. The Americans usualh'- came into the salon singly ; each man, with a bundle of newspapers under his arm, took a seat at a vacant table, ordered a pro- digious repast, which he gobbled in haste, as though he was afraid, of losing a train, and then rushed off to the bar or smoked in the passages, never sitting for a moment after his breakfast. The Englishmen came in little knots or groups, exhibited no great anxiety about newspapers, ordered simple and substantial feasts, en- joyed them at their ease, chattered much, and were in no particular hurry to leave the table. The taciturnity of the American was not well-bred, nor was the good humour of the Briton vulgar. It may be said the comparison is not just, because the Americans were engaged in a fearful war, which engrossed all their thoughts; whilst the English officer was merely sent out on a tour of duty. But in the bar-room, restaurants, or streets, the American did not maintain the same aspect : he put on what is called a swaggering air, and was not at all disposed to let his shoulder-straps or his sword escape notice. The good people at home would have been greatly surprised to hear the way in which the officers spoke of their exile to the snows of Canada ; but though they growled and grumbled when breakfast was over, pro- bably till dinner time, they would have fought all the better for it. Indeed there was not much else to do. The streets were piled with snow ; and at the front of the hotel, sleighs, driven by Irishmen, such as are seen managing the Dublin hacks, wrapped up in fur and SLEIGHING AND DRIVING. 79 sheepskins, were drawn up waiting for fares, to the constant jingle of tlie bells, which enlivened the air. It was too early and too raw and cold for many of the ladies of Montreal to trust their complexions to the cruelties of the climate, thickly veiled though they might be ; but now and then a sleigh slid by with a bright-eyed freight half-buried in fourrures, and some handsome private vehicles of this description reached in their way as high a point of richness and elegance as could well be conceived. The horses were rarely of corresponding quality. The guardsmen and other soldiers, "red" and "green," strode about in cold lefiant boots, and seemed to like the town and climate better than their officers. Mr. Blackwell, the amiable and accomplished chief of the Grand Trunk Railway, called for me, and drove me out to an early dinner. It was a matter of some ceremony to set forth : a fur cap with flaps secured over the ears and under the chin, a large fur cloak, and a pair of moccasins for the feet, had to be put on ; and then we clomb the sides of the boat- like sleigh, and started off at a rapid pace, which pro- duced a sea-sick sensation — at least what I am told is like it — in very rough places where the runners of the sleighs have cut into the snow. On our way we were rejoiced by the sight of the " Driving Club " going out for an excursion. Sir Fenwick Williams leading. All one could* see, however, was a certain looming up of dark forms through the drift gliding along to the music of the bells, which followed one after the other, and were lost in the hazy yet glittering clouds tossed up by the horses' hoofs from the "snow. In the after- noon the rime passed off, and the day became clearer, but no warmer. I » ■' 80 CANADA. »• ■! *\ .;*'h «■ At about three o'clock, we sleighed over by rough roads to the terminus of the railway, close to the Victoria Bridge, where a party of the directors and some officers — Colonel Mackcnsie, Colonel Wetherall, Colonels Ellison and Earle of the Guards, and others recently arrived — were assembled to view the great work which would stamp the impress of English greatness on Canada, if her power were to be rooted out to-morrow. The royal carriage — a prettily decorated long open waggon, with the Prince of Wales's coat of arms, plume, and initials still shining brightly — was in readiness ; and as cold makes one active, or very lazy, as the case may be, we lost no time in starting to explore the bridge, which threw its massive weight in easy stretches across the vast frozen highway ofihe St. Lawrence— so light, so strong, so graceful, for all its rigid lines, that I can compare the impression of the thing to nothing so much as to that of the bounds of a tiger. The entrance, in the limestone rock, is grandly simple ; but ere we could well admire its proportions the car ran into the darkness of the great tube. The light admitted by the neatly designed windows in the ii'on sides of the aerial tunnel was not enough to enable us to pierce through the smoke and the fog which clung to the interior. The car proceeded to the end, the thermometer markii^g 6°. Statistics, though I have them all by me, I am not about to give, as the history of the bridge is well known ; but Mr. Blackwell showed me a table which indicated that the monster suffers or rejoices like a living-thing, and contracts and expands and swells out his lines wondrously, just in proportion as the temperature alters. BRIDGE ACROSS TilE ST. LAWRENCE. 81 by rougli 3 to the directors Colonel Guards, to view ipress of ere to be I prettily ■ Wales's 'ightly— B, or very arting to veiglit in f the St. )r all its )n of the lounds of grandly )portions ae. The vs in the ;o enable Lch clung end, the L I have e history 1 showed uft'ers or expands oportion From this end of the magnificent bridge one could see, nearly a hundred feet below him, the rugged surface of the ice, beneath which was rolling the St. Lawrence. It was distinguished from the snowy expanse covering the land by the bluish glint of the ice, and by the torn glacier-like aspect of the course of the stream, where the frozen masses had b(3en contend- ing fiercely with the current and with each other till the frost-king had clutched them and bound them in the midst of the conflict. You could trace the likeness of spires, pinnacles, castles, battlements, and alpine peaks in the wild confusion of those serried heaps, which were tilted up and forced together; but the haze did not permit us to follow the course of the stream for any great distance. It was too cold for enthusiastic enjoy- ment, and we got into the car and backed into the darkness till we reached the centre of the bridge. I confess, when it occurred to me that great cold makes iron brittle, the uneasy feeling I experienced of suspense, malgre moi, in passing over any of these great engineering triumphs, was aggravated so far that it required a good deal of faith in the charming diagram of the effects of temperature on the bridge, to make me quite at ease. I suppose it is only an engineer who can be quite above the thought, " Suppose, after all, the bridge does go at this particular moment." And then the iron did crackle and bang and shriek most unmistakeably and demonstratively. At the centre of the bridge we got out, and had another look at the river, some sixty feet below. Re- marked the thinness of the iron ; was informed it was on purpose, every plate being made specially for its place. Examined carefully a bolt driven in by the 82 CANADA. Prince of Wales ; rfither liked its appearance, as it was well hammered and seemed sound. Then the v^.ar received us, and wc were drawn through this ghastly cold gallery once more, and were divulged at the rail- way station among a crowd of furred citizens. Thence through the city over the rough road in our carrioles and sleighs. On our way I remarked a stone obelisk standing out of the snow close to the railway, in a low patch of ground near the river. "That," said my companion, "is a memorial to six thousand Irish emigrants who died here of ship fever." What a history in tliose few words — a tale of sori'ow and woe unutterable — I hope, not of neglect and indif- ference too ! The railway engineers have thoughtfully erected the monument of the nameless dead, and so far rescued their fate from oblivion. I am not so philosophic as to witness the desolating emigrations whicli leave the homea of a country waste, and fill the lands of future kingdoms and possible rivals with an alienated population, without regret. Above all, I pity the fate of the poor pioneers whose hapless lot it is to labour unthanked and despised, to build up the stranger^s cities, to clear his forests, and make his roads, to found his power and greatness, and then to sit at his gate waiting for alms when the hour Cometh that no man can work. It is most strange, indeed, and yet too true, that a race which, above all others, ought to seek the material advantages and the substantial results of hard work, should be the most readily led astray by windy agitators and by political disputes and passions. Here we are driving through the streets of Montreal, which owes much of its existence to Irish labour, and MONTllEAL AND NKW YORK. S3 as it was the oar is ghastly t the rail- • I road in marked a sc to the ;he river, ial to six ip fever.'' of sorrow and indif- )ughtfully d, and so iesolating trv waste, ible rivals Above 36 hapless to build md make and then the hour rue, that seek the results of astray by passions. Montreal, hour, and the labourer lives in filth and degradation, in the back slums of the city, intensely interested in elections and clerical discussions, little better cared for or regarded than the dogs thereof till his vote is reqiured. The city is now in its winter mantle, but it shows fair proportions. The Roman Catholic chapels arc well placed and handsome, and excel in size and numbers the Protestant churches. The Quarter-master-General, who has had to hire one of the Catholic colleges to serve as barracks for the troops, says the priests are remark- ably keen practitioners at a bargain : good Churchmen always were in old times. The metal-covered domes and spires, the roofs of houses sheeted with tin, now began to glisten in the sun, and gave a bright look to the place which did not make it all the warmer. Montreal is a much finer- looking place than I had expected. The irregularity of the streets pleased the eye, wearied by straight lines and regular frontage. The houses of stone with double windows have plain bare fronts, and do not present so good an appearance as the best of New York ; but the character of the residences as a whole is better, and the effect of the city, to compare small things with great, very much more interesting and picturesque. Our destination in this drive was the Rink, or covered skating-ground, which is the fashionable sport- ing resort of Montrealese in the winter time. The crowd of sleighs and sleigh- drivers around the doors of a building which looked like a Methodist chapel, announced that the skaters were already assembled. Anything but a Methodist-looking place inside. The room, which was like a large public bath-room, was crowded with women, young and old, skating fc 2 84 CANADA. ■■iii or preparing to skate, for husbands, and spread in maiden rays over the glistening area of ice, gliding, swooping, revolving on legs of every description, Mhich were generally revealed to mortal gaze in proportion to their goodness, and therefore were displayed on a ))rineiple so far unobjectionable. The room was lighted with gas, which, with the heat of the crowd, made the ice rather sloppy; but the skating of tlie natives Avas admirable, and some hardened campaigners of foreign origin had by long practice learned to emulate the graces and skill of the inhabitants. It was a mighty pretty sight. The spectators sat or stood on the raised ledge round the ice parallelogram like swallows on a cliff, and now and then dashed off and swept away as if on the uing over the surface, in couples or alone, executing quadrilles, mazurkas, ■waltzes, and tours de force, that made one conceive the laws of gravitation must be suspended in the Rink, and that the outside edge is the most stable place for the human foot and figure. Mercy, what a crash ! There is a fine stout young lady sprawling on the ice, tripped up by Dontstop of the Guards, who is making a first attempt, to the detriment of the lieges. How delighicd the ladies are, and pretend not to be ; for the fallen fair one is the best contortionist in the place ! She is on her legs again — has shaken the powdered ice and splash off her dandy jacket and neat little breeches, — yes, they wear breeches, a good many of them, — and is zigzagging about once more like a pretty noiseless firework. The little children skate, so do most portentous mammas. A line of recently arrived officers, in fur caps and coats, look on, all sucking their canes, and re- 8115 FENWICK WILLIAMS. 58 'f?» solving to take private lessons early in the morning. Some, in the goose-step stage, perform awful first lines with their skates, and leave me in doubt as to whether they will split np or dash out their brains. The young ladies pretend to avoid them with unanimity, but sail round them still as seagulls sweep by a drowning man. And if a fellow should fall — and be saved by a lady ? Well ! It nmv end in an introduetion, and a condition of "rauflinage." And what that is we must tell you hereafter. I can't answer your question as to whether the women were pretty ; eyes dark generally, and good complexions. The Rink is a bad place to judge of that point. I paid my respects to Sir Fenwiek Williams, who has his quarters in the hotel. The general has plenty of work to do at present, and did not seem quite so well as when I saw him after his return from Kars. There is a general impression that the Fcdcrids will keep their armies in good liumour at the end of the war, by annexing Canada, if they can. No one asks what thev will do with them when that work has been accomplished. Dined at the house of the Hon. John Rose, member for Montreal, and formerly a member of the Government. He had, after his hospitable wont, some young officers to dine also ; and, after an agree- able evening, I slid home in a bitter snow drift to the hotel, and so to bed. Here is a page from my diary. February 6. — The severe cold makes the head ache, and stupefies me ultra modum. I \vrote to Mr. Hope, stating ray reasons for declining the great compliment of a public dinner intended for me at Toronto. As I move about here, T feel that society is much under the influence of the unruly fellow, our next neighbour. y 86 CANADA. There is no great love for him; but his prodigious kicks and blows, his threats, his bad language, his size and insolence, frighten them up here. There is great anxiety for the American news; and 1 am bound to say, the Northern Americans must have done some- thins; to make the Canadians dislike thera, as there is little love for them even where little is felt for England. I saw a great many of the principal personages to-day. Called on the Bishop, whose sweet, benevolent face is an index of his mind. He spoke in high terms of hia Roman Catholic coadjutor ; indeed, it would be difficult to quarrel with Dr. Mountain. In education, they work harmoniously together. Mr. D'Arcy M'Ghie called on me. He is now a member of the Canadian Parliament, and is giving his support to the authority of the British Crown. His loyalty is, of course, stig- matised by some as treason to what they call the cause of Ireland ; but I believe the atmosphere of Canada is found to have a vapour-dispelling, febrifuge character about it which w^orks well on the mind of the Irish immigrant. A most entertaining, witty, well-informed barrister, also an Irishman, paid me a visit, and gave some admirable sketches of Canadian society, of the bar, of the working of parties, as w^U as his own ideas on all points, in a peculiarly terse and pleasant way. CHAPTER VI. Visit the "lions" of Montreal — The 47th Regiment — The city open to attack — Quays, public buildings — French colonisation — Rise of Montreal — Stone — A French-Anglicised city — Loyalty of Cana- dians — Arrival of Troops — Facings — British and American Army compared — Experience needed by latter — Slavery. I REMAINED sGveral days at Montreal, examining the lions, and making the most of my brief stay. Here are living a knot of Southern families in a sort of American Siberia, at a very comfortable hotel, who nurse their wrath against the Yankee to keep it warm and sustain each other's spirits. They form a nucleus for sympathising society to cluster around, and so germinate into innocent little balls, sleigh-parties, and occasional matrimonial engagements. " Waiting for his regiment," too, was old General Bell — the veteran who saw his first shot fired in the Peninsula, and his last, forty-four years afterwards, before Sebastopol. There were parades of the 47th Regiment and inspection-drills on the St. Lawrence in snow-shoes ; and Penn marched out his Armstrongs in beautiful order, on their sleighs, for all to see. The position of this fine city leaves it open to attack from the American frontier, which is so near that the blue tops of the mountain ridges of the bordering States can be seen on a clean day. The rail from the / B8 CANADA. centre of New York runs direct to it, through the arsenal and fort of Rouse's Point on Lake Champlain ; and there are two other lines converging on it, so that an enormous force could be swiftly sent against it. The frontier is here a mere line on the map, so drawn as to leave the head of Lake Champlain and Rouse's Point in the hands of the Americans. Its importance, its beauty, and the feeling of the inhabitants ,'ould render it tempting to the Northern armies; and the fierce, relentless, and destructive spirit which has been evoked in their civil war, might lead them to destroy all that is valuable and handsome in a city ■which stands in strong contrast to the hideousness of American towns, if they were, ab of old, obhged to abandon the city. The quays of Montreal are of imperial beauty, and would reflect credit on any city in Europe. They pre- sent a continuous line of cut-stone from the Lachine Canal along the river-front before the city, leaving a fine broad mall or esplanade between the water's edge and the houses. The public buildings, built of solid stone, in wliich a handsome limestone predominates, are of very great merit. Churches, courthouses, banks, markets, hospitals, colleges, all are worthy of a capital ; and these would present a very diff'erent appearance to an invader from that which was ofi*ered by the poverty- stricken and insignificant Montreal of 1812. There are a few guns mounted on a work on the left bank of the river above the city, but for military purposes the place may be considered perfectly open. There are more than 90,000 people in the city, but it is said not to be a fighting population ; and there are many foreigners and emigrants of an inferior class, who taint the place ough the lamplain ; it, so that Lgainst it. so drawn i Rouse's iportance. Its >,-ould and the ^hich has them to in a citv )usness of ibliged to |auty, and rhey pre- Lachine leaving a ;er's edge of solid )mi nates, ■s, banks, L capital ; irance to poverty- the left purposes here are id not to reigners lie place FOUNDATION- OP MONTREAL. 89 with rowdyism. The British element was active in volunteering when I was there, and figures in uniform were frequently to be seen in the streets ; but the time was unfavourable for any public displays, and I never saw any of the volunteers working en masse. Here, as elsewhere, the jealousies of claimants for command, local and personal rivalry, have impeded the good work; but such obstacles would vanish in the presence of danger. National feeling has tended to make the organisation of corps too expensive, and the question of drafting for the militia has also interfered with the full development of the movement. It would be unjustifiable to assert that the enterprise of the French people, and their capacity for colonisa- tion, have been diminished by republican institutions ; but, unquestionably, the great convulsions which have agitated society since the fall of the monarchy appear to have concentrated the energies of the race upon objects nearer home, even though they have annexed Algeria, established a protectorate over Tahiti, and are engaged in war with the Cambodians. Where is the enterprise which, more than 200 years ago, originated a company of merchant adventurers, who pushed out settlements into this wilderness, and founded factories among the Iroquois and the Mohawks ? In those days, indeed, the zeal of Jesuits and other Roman Catholic missionaries preceded the march and directed the course of commerce. Montreal owes its existence to a certain Monsieur Maisonneuve, the factor of the Commercial Associa- tion in 1642. More than 100 years afterwards it was nearly destroyed by fire ; and ten years after the con- flagration the troops of the insurgent colonies took ! ' I**: 90 CANADA. possession of the town, which was a favourite object of attack in the two American wars. In spite of many misfortunes — fire, hostile occu- pation, insurrection, riot — Montreal has flourished ex- ceedingly, and the energy of its population has been displayed in securing for it a principal share of the trade between England and the Upper Provinces. Its railway communications have been pushed with great energy, and the canals and quays are in imperial grandeur ; but still, in case of war with the States, the only outlet in winter (by rail to Portland) would be effectually blocked up. The city contains nearly 100,000 inhabitants, of whom 60,000 arc Roman Catholics — representing a great variety of nationalities, with a predominance, however, of French-Canadians and Irish. An abundance of fine stone, found near the town, has enabled the inhabitants to build substantial houses in lieu of the wooden edi- fices from which they were driven by two great con- flagrations; but the material is of a dull cold grey colour, and the streets, seen in Trinter-time, have in consequence a gloomy and melancholy aspect. Many of the cupolas and spires and the roofs of many of the houses are covered with metal plates, which shine out in the sun, and give the city a bright appearance from a distance, which is not altogether maintained on a nearer approach. The mental activity of the population, displayed in a large crop of newspapers, doubtless indicates a close intimacy with the United States ; but Montreal is, after all, French Anglicised, and, notwithstanding the disaffection of which it gave symptoms in the rebellion, the sympathies of its people are very far removed PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS. 91 from the bald republicanism of the New England States. Nuns and priests seem, to a Protestant eye, to be rather too numerous for the good of the people; but having seen the schools of the Christian Brothers, and having heard the testimony of all classes to the ser- vices rendered to morals and religion, to charity and to Christianity, by the various religious orders, I am forced to believe that Montreal is much indebted to their labours. The number of hospitals, schools, scientific institutions — the libraries, reading-rooms, universities, are remark- able. They are worthy of a highly-civilised, wealthy, and prosperous community ; but, in fact, the economy with which they are managed is not one of the least remarkable features about the Montreal institutions. Party animosities have now been softened : but there is no doubt of the satisfaction with which the Liberal Canadian points to the fact that those who were impri- soned and persecuted by the Government, for rebellious acts or tendencies, have since been called to office, and have served the Crown in high official positions. The people of Canada are learning a useful piece of knowledge or two from what is passing so close to them. The annexation party are heard no more : in their room stand the people of Canada, loyal to the Crown and to the connexion, prepared to defend their homes and altars against invasion. So far as I have gone, in no place in the Queen's dominions is there greater attach- ment to her person and authority. The Canadians see with sorrow the ills which afflict their neighbours, in spite of all the ill-advised menaces of the Northern Press ; but they felt naturally indignant \\ I m CANADA. at being spoken of as if they were a mere chattel, which could be taken away by the United States from Great Britain in order to spite her. With such turbulent and dangerous elements at work close to them, they will no doubt eagerly assist the authorities in their efforts to sejure their oorders and their country, by putting the militia on a proper footing. The patriotism of the Legislature can be relied on to do this. England will do the rest, and give her best blood, if need be, to aid this magnificent dependency of the same Crown as that to which she is herself subject, in maintaining the present situation. It was most agreeable to hear praise instead of grumb- ling, and to know that amid no ordinary difficulties the troops were landed and conveyed across the snows of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in the month of January without casualty or mishap worth mentioning, and that the arrangements were worthy of every com- mendation. It made us feel proud of our army when we saw the cheerfulness, soldierly look, cleanliness, and deportment of the men, and learnt that they had con- ducted themselves in the most exemplary manner, though exposed to great temptation by the hospitality of the New-Brunswickers and the cheapness of intoxi- cating liquors. And what wonderful vicissitudes of service those offi- cers and men have seen ! Here is a face yet burned by the suns of India, encircled in fur-cap, and peering into the railway carriage to welcome some well-known friend from China or Aldershot. There marches a sturdj Guardsman, one of the fe v who remain of the men of Alma and Inkerman, with that small ladder of glory on his breast. Here is one of the old Riflemen \: i OLD CRIMEAN TRIENDS. 93 attel, which from Great rbulent and them, they es in their country, by B patriotism England if need be, lame Crown naintaining i of grumb- iculties the the snows month of nentioning, every com- army when iliness, and y had con- y manner, hospitality 3 of intoxi- 5 those offi- burned bv eering into -veil-known marches a lain of the 11 ladder of d Riflemen — alas, most gracious Queen ! they feel proud in sad- ness of their name now — one of " the Prince Consort's Own Eifle Brigade," who heard, that bright evening when our good ship was gliding through the blue waters of the Dardanelles, the rich chorus of those manly voices, most of which are silenced for ever :— " Soldiers, merrily march away ! Soldier's glory lives in story, His laurels are green when his locks are grey, Then hurrah for the life of a soldier ! " Firm and clean and straight as of yore, under all his load of greatcoat, furs, and boots, struts the soldier of the 47th, mindful of De Lacy Evans, " little Inkerman,^' and of the greater in which it was eclipsed. Will he be fis trim and neat, I wonder, if they take away his white facings ? Of the old " fours " — the second brigade of the division which with the light divided the "general" fighting — the 41st and 47 th, though perhaps no better, always looked better than the 49th, because of their facings. The influence of facings, indeed, goes much further than that in general society. The hotel in which I live (a very attentive host is doing his best to complete the resemblance by extensive dilapidations) is as like a barracks as can be. The " St. Lawrence Hall " is in a military occupation. The obstacles in way of "alterations'' are bestridden by Guardsmen, Riflemen, and Engineers, on their way to breakfast and dinner, as if they were getting through breaches. In the hall abundance of soldiers, anxious orderlies with the quaint quartoes full of orders, and military idlers smoking as much as you like, but, I am glad to say, not chewing — nor, as a New York paper calls the 94 CANADA. Republican Senators, " tobacco-expectorant." To appreciate this boon properly, pray be prepared to limit the suffrage immensely. In the passages more orderlies and soldier-servants, who now and then do a little of what is called flirting with the passing clemou selles de service ; tubs outside in the passage ; doors of rooms open a la caserne ; military chests and charts on the table. It would have given those who admit that war is necessary sometimes, as the sole means of redressing national grievances, considerable satisfaction to have seen the difference presented by the regular troops of Great Britain in Canada and the vast masses of volun- teers assembled on the Potomac bv the United States. It is not that the British are one whit finer men : taking even the Guards, there are some few regiments there which in height and every constituent of physique, except gross weight, cannot be excelled. As a whole, perhaps, the average of intelligence, taken there to mean reading and writing, may be higher among the United States volunteers than among the British regulars ; — not much, however. The Sani- tary Commission of New York, a very patriotic and thoroughly American body, did not attempt to claim more than three-fifths of the United States armies as of American birth. The immediate descendants of Irish and German parents are thus included among native-born Americans, though they are in all respects except birth Irish and Germans still. Very probably they have not partaken to the full, or to any great extent, of the advantages of public education. But, taking the statement of the Commissioners — which, by-the-bye, is a very serious reflection on the ARMY EDUCATION AND DISCIPLINE. 95 int." To 3reparecl to sages more d then do a sing demoi- e ; doors of d charts on ;hat war is ' redressing on to have \r troops of js of volun- ited States, finer men : V regiments )f physique, ntelligence, g, may be ;han among The Sani- triotic and )t to claim armies as endants of led among all respects y probably any great 1. issioners — on on the patriotism of the Northern populations — it may be doubted wL other in reading, writing, and arithmetic there is any great superiority on the part of the United States troons over the British. I admit that in some regiments of the New England States there is a higher average of such knowledge as may enable a man to argue on the orders of his officers, and of such intelli- gence as may induce him to believe he is competent to criticise the cc duct of a campaign. There is an immense amount of newspaper reading and letter-writing, the former taste predominating ; but our own mailbags are ample enough to satisfy any one that the same preponderance Mfhich is main- tained by London over New York in correspond- ence is to be found in the English army over the American. Many Irish and Germans here have no inducements to write letters, but there are few who are unable to read their newspapers. What is it, then, one may reasonably ask, which would satisfy the grumbler, who finds fault with the expenditure of standing armies, that he has got value for his money when he contrasts the British troops here with the battalions on the Potomac ? It is the efficiency produced by obedience, which is the very life of discipline : the latter is obedience incorporated, and, in motion or at rest, acting by fixed rules, with something approaching to certainty in its results. The small army in Canada could be massed tog'i' ii^r. with its artillery and transport, in a very short time, ui'l directed with precision to any one poi^it, though it is a series of detachments on garrison duty rather than a corps d'armee, and it has neither cavalry nor baggage animals. With all the liberal (if not occasionally ex- „!' 'M 90 CANADA. •■\ travag^-^t) outlay, and the cost of transporting it, the force 1- few weeks would be far less expensive than an American corps of the same strength; and it is no disparagement to the latter to say they would be less cflficient than the British. I do not speak of actual fighting ; for our battlefields in Canada tell how despe- rate may be the encounters between the armies. Our force would be under the orders of experienced officers. The staff would consist of men who have seen service in the Russian war, in Asia, in India, and in China, and who have witnessed the operations of great Europefin armies. The United States is laboriously seeking to acquire experience, at a cost which may be ruinous to its national finances, and a delay which may be fatal to its cause ; but it cannot galvanise the inert mass with the fire of military efficiency, though it burns, we are told, with hidden volcanic energies, and is pregnant with patriotic life. The use of an army in war is to fight, to be able to move to and after its enemy, to beat and to pursue him. It is not greatly to be wondered at if the work, which Great Britain has only partially accomplished, notwithstanding the greatness of its progress, should be only begun in the United States. The aptitude of a large mass of the inhabitants for arms, whether they be foreign or native-born, is marred by many things. There is the principle of equality intruding itself in military duty, confounding civil rights with the relations between superior and inferior — between officer and rank- and-file. There is the difficulty of getting men to follow officers who have no special fitness for their post. A soldier may be made in a year ; a company officer cannot be made in three years. There are many TRAINING OF OFFICERS. 97 officers in the American army of great theoretical and some practical knowledge ; there are many in tlie British army lazy and indifferent ; — but no one would think for a moment of comparing the acquirements, in a military sense, of the officers of the two nations. In the Crimean war, when our army was enlarged at a time that severe losses had much diminished the num- ber of officers, we saw that our standard was consider- ably lowered by the precipitate infusion of new men. No wonder, then, that the United States had and has great difficulty in procuring officers of the least value for a levy of more than half-a-million of volunteers. But the system itself is a most formidable barrier to success. Under no circumstances can it reach a mode- rate degree of efficiency, unless the test of subsequent examination be rigidly enforced. There is no supe- riority of rank, of military knowledge, of personal character, of social position, to create an emulation in the mind of the private to be the obedient but daring equal of the officer in the time of danger. To such general remarks there are many and brilliant exceptions. In the course of time, the personal qualities and the reputation for bravery and skill of officers would stand in the Republican armies in lieu of those influences which move the British soldier. No one is fooHsh enough to think or say that the private follows his officer because the latter has paid so much money for his commission or has so much a year. The gradual rise from one rank to another is a guarantee of sbme military knowledge — at all events, of acquaintance with drill. Social position counts for much. Men w^ho are equal before the law are very unequal in the drill-book. It would be lamentable to see so much faith in a :» £ CANADA. i I causC; such devotion, zeal, boundless c.\i)cnditurc, and splendid material comparatively lost — to behold the petted Republic wasting away under this influence, and the vis inertia of the force it has called into being, were it not that the spectacle is a lesson for the nations. It has not yet come to its end. If standing armies there must be, let them be as complete in organisation as possible. If an empire must rely on volunteers as its main defence, let care be taken that they arc organised and ofhcered so as to be effective, and regulated on such principles of economy that they may not overwhelm with debt the country they are engaged in protecting by their arras. It is quite true that the Confederates suffer from the same disadvantages as those which affect the Federals, but in a far less degree. Mr. Davis, early in the war, got hold of the army and subjected it to discipline. It was not so difficult to do so in the South as in the North, owing to the difference in the people. The officers were appointed by him. The men were ani- mated, as they are now, by an intense hatred of their enemy. Their armies were in a defensive attitude ; a large number, comprising some of the best, of the United States officers sided with them. They are operating besides on the inner lines. ' - But, after all, if the possession of the seaboard, the use of navies, the vast preponderance of population, the ability to get artillery and arms, and the occupation of the heads of the great river communications be not utterly thrown away, the North must overrun tlie South, if only the Northerners can fight as well as the Southerners, and if the North can raise money to maintain the struggle. Lcl The in tli<| patcd slaves obedil get aJ SLAVEUY. 0t liturc, and cliold the icnco, and cing, were c nations. icm be as ipirc must 3 be taken B effective, that tliey they are ' from the Federals, 1 the war, plinc. It as in the Die. The were ani- of their itude; a , of the hey are Let us leave out of view the slave element for oucc. The Abolitionists assert that the most formidable weapon in the United States armoury is the use of the emanci- pated slave ; but it is rather diilicult to see how the slaves could assist the North as long as they remain obedient and quiet in the South, or how the North can get at them by a mere verbal declaration till it has con- quered the Slavf States. Above all, it is not clear that it would benefit the penniless exchequer of the North . to have 4,000,000 black paupers suddenly thrown on it for support. Slavery is to me truly detestable ; the more I saw \ of it the less I liked it. It is painful, to one who has seen the system at work and its results, to read ill English journals philosophical — pscudo-philosopliical treatises on the subject, and dissertations on the '* ethics and aesthetics " of the curse, from which we shook our- selves free years ago with the approbation of our own consciences and of the world. Before I speak of the defence of Montreal in con- nection with the general military position of the Canadian frontier, I shall continue my bi uarralive of my tour through Canada. oard, the ition, the cupation s be not run the well as aoney to H 2 ■ v \ \ •f ' .1 CHAPTER VII. First view of Quebec — Passage of tlie St. Lawrence — Novel and rather alarming situation — Russell's Hotel — The Falls of Montmorenci, and the " Cone"— Aspect of the City— The PoTht— " Tarboggiuing " — Description of the " Cone " — Audacity of one of my companions — A Canadian dinner— Call on the Governor — Visit the Citadel — Its position — Capabilities for defence — View from parapet — The aimoury — Old muskets — Red-tape thoughtfulness — French and English occupation of Quebec — Strength of Quebec. It was early in the morning when the train from Montreal arrived at Point Levi on the right bank of the St. Lawrence, a little above Quebec. The impres- sion produced on us by the heights of Abraham, by the fro^vning citadel, by the picturesque old city glistening in the sun's rays, and by the great river battling its way through the fields of ice and the countless minia- ture bergs, which it hustled upwards with full-tide power, can never be effaced. It required some faith to enable one to believe the pas- sage could be made by mortal boat of that vast flood from which the crash of ice sounded endlessly, as floes and bergs floating full speed were dashed against each other — flying fast as clouds in a wintry sky up the river, the banks of which resembled the sheen sides of an Alpine crevasse. The force of the stream is so great as to rend through and rupture the coat of ice which is thickened daily, and the masses thus broken, tossed into all sorts of singular shapes, jagged and quaint, are borne up and down by the flood till they are melted THE ST. LAWKENCE. 101 by the increasing warmth of spring. An ice bridge is occasionally formed by the concentration of the ice in such masses as to resist the action of the water, and then sleigh horses cross by a path which is marked out by poles or twigs stuck in the snow, but it more usually happens that the river opposite Quebec remains unfrozen, and offers the singidar spectacle of the ice rushing up and down every day as the tide rises and falls, to the great interest and excitement of strangers who have to cross from one side to the other. At first the attempt seems impracticable. The deep blue of the St. Lawrence can be only seen here and there through the bergs and floes, like the veins beneath a snowy skin, but those glints are for ever varying as the ice passes on. The clear spaces are no sooner caught by the eye than they are filled up again, and every instant there are fresh refts made in the shifting surface, which is at once as solid as a glacier and as yielding as water. In this race the bergs are carried with astonishing force and rapidity, and a grating noise ; and a grinding, crashing sound continually rises from the water. At the station there was a goodly crowd of men in ragged fur coats and caps, pea jackets, and long boots, of an amphibious sort, who did not quite look like sailors, and who yet were not landsmen. These were clamouring for passengers, and touting with energy in a mixture of French and English. " Prenez notr* bateau, M^sieu' — La Belle Alliance ! Good boat, Sar ! Jean Baptiste, M'sieu' : I well known boat- man. Sir." " The blue boat, Sir, gentleman's boat, Mon Espoir," " L'Hirondelle," and so on at the top of their voices. And su^'e enough there, drawn up on the 102 CANADA. snow near the station, was a range of stout whale boats, double planked on the sides, and provided with re- markably broad keels. We selected, after a critical inspection, the captain of one of these — a merry-eyed, swarthy fellow, with a big beard and brawny shoulders — as our Charon, and fol- lowing his directions we were stowed away in a sort of well between the steersman and the stroke oar, where we sat down with our legs stretched out very com- fortably, and were then covered up to the chin with old skips, furs, and great coats. When all was ready, a horse was brought forward with a sling bar, to which a rope was attached from the bow, and we glided for- ward along the road towards the most favourable point for crossing at that stage of the tide. The boat was steadied and guided by the crew, who ran alongside with their hands on the gunwales. Houses by the road side snowed up — shop windows with French names — sallow-faced, lean people looking out of the grimy win- dows — some large ships on the stocks, roughly placed on the river bank — these met the eye as we passed over the snow road towards the point opposite the city now looming nearer. With cheap timber and labour it is not surprising that the ship-building trade of Quebec flourishes. For more than a mile and a half the boat careered eastwards, in active emulation with several other boats which were in our track, and the citadel on the opposite shore already lay behind us, before the horse was de- tached at the side of a deep incline leading to the river, and in another moment the boat was gliding down the bank and rushing for a blue rent in the midst of the heavy surface, into which we splashed as unerringly as a \^ bo\| eigl the! in BOAT ADVENTURE. 103 le river. a wild duck drops into a moss hole. The moment the bow touched the water, all the crew, some seven or eight in number, leaped in and seized their oars, which they worked with a will, whilst the skipper, standing in the bow, directed the course of the steersman. "We were now in a basin of clear water surrounded quite by ice, which only left the tops of the small bergs and the high banks on each side visible to us seated low down in the boat ; and as we looked the floes were rapidly closing in upon us ; but the skipper saw where the frozen wall was about opening, and forced the boat to the point of the advancing and narrowing circle, in which suddenly a tiny canal was cleft by the parting of the bergs, and the opportunity was instantly seized by the boatmen. The ice was already closing and gripping the timbers as soon as we had fairly entered, and in an instant out leaped the crew on the treacherous surface, which here and there sank till they were knee-deep, and by main force they slid the boat up on a floe, and rocking her from side to side as a kite flutters before it makes a swoop, they roused her along on the surface of the ice, which was floating up towards the city very rapidly. With loud cries to a sort of chorus, the crew forced the craft across the floe till they floundered in some half-frozen snow, through which the boat dropped into the water. Then in they leaped, like so many Newfoundland dogs coming to land, all wet and furry, took the oars again, and rowed across and against the tide-set as hard as they could. Now in the water, then hanging on by the gunwales, this moment rowing, in another tugging at the boat ropes, clambering over small ice rocks, running across floes, sinking suddenly 104 CANADA. h I to the waist in the cold torrent, the men battled with the current, and by degrees the shore grew nearer, and the picturesque outlines of the city became more distinct in the morning sun. What with the extraordinary combinations and forms of the ice drifts, the inimitably fantastic outlines of the miniature ice architecture, and the novelty of the scene, one's attention was entirely fixed on what was passing around, and it was not till we had nearly touched land that we had time to admire the fine efiect of the streets and citadel, which, rising from the icy wall of the river-bank, towered aloft over us like the old town of Edinburgh suddenly transplanted to the sea. We found an opening in the blue cold water-rocks near the Custom-house landing-wharf, at which place there was a shelving bank ; a stout horse was at- tached to the boat by a rope, on which the crew threw themselves with enthusiasm ; and in a few seconds more we were on the quay, and thence pro- ceeded to RusselFs Hotel, which was recommended to us as the best in the place. One may find fault with AmerTcan hostelries; but assuredly they are better than the imitations of them which one finds in Canada, combining all the bad qualities of hotels in the States and in Europe, and destitute of any of the good ones. The master of the hotel was an American, and he had struggled hard ** under the depressing influences of the British aristocracy^' to establish an American hotel, and he only succeeded in introducing the least agreeable features of the institution ; but the attendants were civil and obliging, and there was no extravagant pressure on the resources of the place, so that we fared better than if we had been down south of the frontier. Even the tOWJ myse The THE FALLS OP MONTMORENCL 105 attled with learer, and arae more itions and ic outlines novelty of I on what aad nearly le effect of le icv wall e the old the sea. ater-rocks jich place 3 was at- the crew in a few mce pro- ended to aiilt with ■e better Canada, le States >d ones, i he had 3s of the otel, and greeable its were pressure d better Even the landlord, though not particularly well disposed towards one so unpopular among his countrymen as myself, yielded so far to the genius loci as to be civil. The rooms were small, and not particularly clean ; but as painting and papering were going on, those who follow me may be better provided for. A short rest was very welcome ; but what fate is like that which drives the sightseer ever onwards, and forces him, with the lage of all the furies, from repose ? " The Falls of Montmorenci were but -a drive awav, and the * Cone ' was in great perfection." " What is ' the Cone 1' " The effect of our ignorance on the waiter was so touching — he was so astonished by the profound barbarism of our condition — that we felt it necessary for our own character to proceed at once to a spot which forms the delight of Quebec in the winter season, and to which the bourgeoisie were repairing in hot haste for the afternoon's pleasure. A sleigh was brought round, and in it, ensconced in furs, we started off for the Falls, which are about eight miles distant. It was delightful to see anything so old on this continent as the tortuous streets of the city, which bear marks of their French origin, after such a long contact as I had endured with the raw youth of American cities in general, but it was impossible to deny that the antiquity before us had a certain air of dreary staleness about it also. The double-windowed flat-faced houses had a lanky, compressed air, as if they had been starved in early life, and the citizens had the appearance of people who had no particular object in being there, and set no remarkable value on time. A considerable sprinkling of priests was perhaps the most remarkable feature in the scene, and occasiouallv knots of ruddv-faced rifle- w 106 CANADA. men, in all the glory of winter fur caps and great coats, disputed the narrow pavement, alternating with the " red " soldiers of the line. The city is built on very irregular ground, and some of the streets are so steep that it is desirable for new comers to have steel spikes screwed into the foot-gear to combat the inclination to proneness on the part of the wearers. Emerging through a postern in the ancient battlemented wall we came out in an uninteresting suburb of small houses, from which a descent led to the margin of the water. Far as the eye could reach a vast snow plain extended, with surface broken into ridges, mounds, and long dark lines, and dotted with opaque blocks from which the church steeples sprung aloft, indicating the sites of villages. The ridges were the hills over the St. Lawrence, the mounds its islands, and the lines its banks, which expand widely on the left to embrace the sweep of the St. Charles Lake, on which stands the projecting ledge of the eastern part of the city. As we approached the Lake, over which our route lay, black specks, which were resolved into sleighs, or men and women on foot, were visible making their way over the ice, which was marked by lines of bushes and branches of trees dressed up in the snow so as to indi- cate the route, and far away similar black specks could be made out crossing the St. Lawrence below, which has now become the great highway. But not a very smooth road. The surface is far from being level, and consists indeed of a succession of undulations in which the profound cavities sometimes give one a sense of inse- cure travelling. On the whole, however, the expedition was much to be I not ii all its difFere] keepin| or on his slel portioi On rugged polar 1 Lawrei over \\ village] wards which point its fall, the gre At t imbedc planksj looking we saw which parent bars tl us anc latter, gress, of the prone the d THE CONE. 107 great coats, J with the J and some le for new ibot-gearto 3art of the he ancient interesting ent led to lid reach a roken into lotted with les sprung idges were its islands, sly on the Lake, on irn part of ;S route lay, I, or men their way ushes and LS to indi- cks could )w, which ot a very evel, and in which eofinse- as much to be enjoyed, the air was bracing, and the cold not intense, and the scene " slid into the soul " with all its deep tranquillity. Doubtless it produced a very different effect on the red-nosed Britons who were keeping watch and ward on the ramparts of the citadel, or on the poor " habitant " trudging patiently beside his sleigh-load of woud, and knowing that snow is his portion for the next five months. On our right a continuous movement of white rugged masses, to all appearance like a stream of polar bears, betokened the course of the unfrozen St. Lawrence ; on our left rose the high bank of the lake over which we were travelling, and cottages of the villagers; before us the sleighs were streaming to- wards a point which ran out into the river and beyond which there seemed to be a shallow bay. This was the point at which the Montmorenci river, recovering from its fall, expanded into a broad sheet at its junction with the greater river. Here we arrived in about an hour. At the Point there were a few houses, some vessels imbedded in the snow, and piles of sawn timber and deal planks, and a great concourse of sleighs ; and beyond it, looking up to the left, at the distance of some half-mile, we saw a glistening sugarloaf bf snow, on the summit of which the creaming, yellow-tinged mass of the Falls ap- parently precipitated itself from the high precipice which bars the course of the stream. On the snow between us and the sugarloaf, and up the white sides of the latter, little black objects were toiling with small pro- gress, but at intervals one of them, gliding from the top of the cone like a falling star in the Inferno, rushed prone to the base, and thence carried by the impetus of the descent skimmed over the ice towards us for 108 CANADA. hundreds of yards, like a round shot till its force was spent. Of the crowd gathered at the Point nearly every one had the small hand-sleigh, something like a tiny truck with iron runners, under the arm, known in the verna- cular as a " tarboggin/^ of the derivation of which it is better to confess ignorance. A few were provided with sleighs of ampler proportions, and all the visitors were bent on tarbogginiug it, either from a shoulder of the Cone or from the summit of the mass itself. As we approached over the snow the natives, men and women, flew past us on their way after a rush down the Cone, shouting to the bystanders to t^ke care. Sometimes two were together, the lady ssated on the front pjirt of the machine, the man behind lying on his face with his feet stretched out so as to guide the sleigh by the smallest touch against the ice. At a distance the pleasure-seekers looked like some hideous insects impelled towards us with incredible velocity. As they came near and flew past, the expression of their coun- tenances by no means indicated serene enjoyment. Near the Cone itself a crowd of " tarboggin " hirers and guides beset us and guaranteed a safe descent, but it seemed a doubtful pleasure at best, and there was some chance of breaking limb, as we were told happened frequently during the season. We ascended to the lower shoulder of the Cone by steps in the snow and gazed on the scene with some curiosity. Not only were the people launching themselves from the Cone, but more adventurous still there were who, climbing up the steep side of the precipice, tarboggin under arm, at last reached some vantage snow, by the side of the Fall, where thev threw themselves flat on the THE FALLS. 109 11 its force sleigli, and then came rushing down with a force which carried them clear up the side of the lower ledge of the Cone and over it, so that they were once more plunged downwards and were borne off to- wards the St. Lawrence. It could now be very plainly seen that the Falls fell behind the Cone into a boiling turbulent basin, which fretted the edge of the ice and repelled its advances. Although much diminished in volume the body of water, which makes a leap of 250 feet down a sheer rock face into the caldron, was sufficiently large to present all the finest characteristics of a waterfall, but it was at times enveloped in a mist of snow, or rather of frozen spray, which blew into eyes, mouth, ears, and clothes, and penetrated to the very marrow of one's bones. And it is of this ever-falling frozen rain the Cone is built, and as the winter lengthens on the Cone grows higher and higher, till in favourable seasons it reaches an altitude of 120 feet. It is as regular as the work of an architect, and, I need not say, much more beautiful. At present it had not attained its full growth, and was only 80 feet in height — but its svmmetrv was of Nature's own handiwork. The Falls are in a narrow concave cup of rock crested with pine forests, and its sides now forbid the ascent, which is prac- ticable in summer time by a series of natural steps in the strata. The waters cover this young cone with wings of spray and foam, and flittering, tremulous, and unsub- stantial as they are, it is nevertheless from their aerial vapours that the solid and sturdy ice mountain grows up. Of its substantial nature we had an excellent proof — of a human, practical kind : for, obeying many invita- tions, we walked along a snow path which led to a portal 110 CANADA. cut in the solid oxide of hydrogen, and entering found ourselves in a hot and stuffy apartment ex(;avated from the body of tlie Cone, in which there was an Ameri- canised bar, with drinks suited to the locality, and as much want of air as one would find in a house in the Fifth Avenue of New York. It was full of people, who drank whiskey and other strong waters. I know not by what seduction overcome, but, some- how, so it happened, that one of my companions, on our return to the outer air and light, was led to sacrifice himself on a tarboggin, and yielded to a demon guide. I watched him toiling on, with painful steps and slow, doggedly up the path towards the slippery sum- mit, and, when he had gained it, I slid down below to observe the result of the experiment, and judge whether it looked pleasant or not. He was but an item among many, but I knew he was among the braves des braves, and had received a baptism of fire in the trenches of Sebastopol, which had rained a very font of glory in India, and scarcely paled in China. I watched him assuming the penal attitude to which the young tarbogginer is condemned, and after a balance for a moment on the giddy height, his guide gave a kick to the snow, and down like a plunging bomb flew the ice-winged Icarus. He passed me close ; I could see and mark him well. Never, to judge from facial expression, could man have been in deadlier fear. With hard set mouth, staring and rigid eyes, and aspect quite antipathetic to pleasure, he careered like one who is falling from a house top, and his countenance had scarce assumed its wonted placid look when I met him gasping and half faint. And yet he had the astounding audacity to say, " It was delicious. Never CANADIAN PEELING. Ill had a more deliglitful moment/' when he came back pale and panting from his fli^Mit. Wc returned from the Fails by a hilly, rough road over the bank of the Lake, and arrived at our hotel in time to dress for dinner, to which I was invited at the house of ;i Canadian gentleman, I think an Englishman by birth, who entertained us right hospitably. There is a wonderful calm in the conversation of the Canadians, perhaps a little too much so, but it is a relief from the ambitious restlessness of the common American. The Canadian mind suffers as the mind of every country which is not a nationality must suffer, and caution assumes the place of enterprise. If the Americans knew the business of diplomacy a little better, and could but restrain the democratic vice of boastful threatening and arrogant menace, they could have alienated Canada from our cold rule long ago, even though Canada would have lost by the change many privileges and a cheap protection to her industry, commerce, and social expansion. February lOM. — To-day I paid my respects to His Excellency the Governor, Viscount Monek, and pro- ceeded to visit the citadel, which is now occupied by a battalion of the 60th Rifles under Colonel Hawley. Independently of the historical associations which attach to this commanding-looking work, I was attracted to it by the consideration that it has twice saved Canada to Great Britain. I am bound to say that, in my poor opinion, it will never do so again, if left in its present condition. The works, once strong, have lost much of their importance since the intro- duction of long-range artillery, and the armament is in a very imperfect condition, consisting of old- w 112 CANADA. fashioned pieces of small calibre, wliich could furnish no reply to a battery established on the heights across the St. Lawrence. The citadel itself has in its construction sornc of the points of a regular fortress after Vauban, and on the river side the parapets tower aloft from a steep rock, which puts one in mind of the site of the plat- form at Berne; but on the cast side it is hampered by houses and by the suburbs of the city ; and it could be approached without much difficulty from the other side, as soon as a lodgment could be effected on the heights of Abraham. The fosses and ditches were partially filled with snow, which obscured the ground and the adjacent country, if such whiteness can obscure anything. Colonel Ilawley was good enough to show us over the works and point out the objects of interest as far as they could be discerned. Among them were some ancient iron gms on which Great Britain ought not to rely for very effective service in the delence of the place. But some new heavy guns have recently been mounted, others are to follow, and as the ordnance stores in Canada will soon be replenished with the best description of pieces, there then need be no appre- hension for Quebec on the score of weak artillery : or for a position that is the key of Quebec, which is most emphatically the master-key of Canada. The outworks of the citadel itself, however, are not by any means in a satisfactory condition ; even the high parapet overlooking the lower town might be crumbled away and expose the interior of the place ; in one par- ticular part of this work the guns are masked by blocks of houses, the windows of which actually look into the TUE ARMOURY. 113 interior of the citadel, and the fire of the place could be so impeded, and the defence so cramped by the existing enceinte, that I very much doubt whe- ther it would not be better to remove the latter altogether. We trudged patiently around the long lines of parapet in the snow, now looking down upon the river clamorous with its burden of ice, and on the tortuous streets of the old-fashioned town. In siun- mer and in the open months the St. Lawrence is thickly studded with ships ; and dense forests of masts line the course of its banks ; but now the only speci- men of commercial enterprise on its bosom consisted of a few canoes struggling backwards and forwards through ice and water with their scanty freights. Inside the citadel, cherry-cheeked riflemen were play- ing like schoolboys in the snow. In spite of tempta- tion the regiment was in good condition ; and although in modern days some objection might be taken to the closeness of their quarters in summer, the British soldiers who served under Wolfe would have been greatly astonished if they could have seen the comforts enjoyed by, and the cares bestowed on, their de- scendants. Even those much-neglected, injured Pene- lopes, the soldiers* wives, are tolerably well off in their quarters, somewhat too crowded, it is true, but still more comfortable than at Aldershot or the Tower. After a long march along the parapet, in which I stumbled across more rotting gun-carriages^ useless mortars, and bad platforms thau I care to mention, we visited the Armoury, which is near the parade- ground of the citadel. The stock of firearms is arranged with great taste, and the cleanliness and Ill CANADA. effectiver r-ss of all the material reflected credit on the storekeeper. Some of the contents consisted of very interest- ing rifles of renowned makers in former days, with carved stocks, flint locks, and harrels encrusted with gold, intended as presents to Indian chiefs and war- riors of tribes sufficiently strong to cause us injury by their hostility or render us service by their alliance. Old flint-lock muskets of inferior quality, with barrels like so many feet of cast-iron piping, intended for the indiscriminate destruction of friend or foej horse- pistols of the fashion in vogue one hundred years ago, and the like, were to be found in the same spacious apartment, which contained specimens of the most recent improvements in firearms. Formerly flint pistols were served out to the frontier patrols, but of course percussion locks have, for many years, been given to all those employed in the service of the Crown in a military capacity. Some worthy official at home, however, still continues to send out barrels of flints with laudable punctuality, as he has not been relieved by superior order from the necessity of keeping up the supply of these articles. We have all heard of the forethought evinced by the home authorities, when they sent out water-tanks for our lake flotilla, forgetting that they were borne on an element quite fit for drinking. But I heard in the citadel of a still more remarkable instance of thought- fulness. A ship arrived at Quebec some time ago with an enormous spar reaching from her bowsprit to her taff'rail consigned to the storekeeper. It had been the plague of the ship's company, it had been in every- edit on the •y interest- days, with usted with i and war- US injury jir alliance. tHIo. barrels ded for the 3e ; horse- dred years the same lens of the rmerly flint )atrols, but my years, he service ne worthy 3 send out as he has e necessity We have the home :s for our ne on an ird in the F thought- 3 with an it to her been the in every- RED-TAPE THOUGHTFULNESSi 115 body's way, and had nearly caused the loss of the vessel in some gales of wind. The whole resources of the quarter-master-generaPs department were taxed to get it safely on shore, and transport it to the heights. And what was it ? A flag-staff for the citadel. And what was it made of? A stout Canadian pine, which had probably been sent from the St. Lawrence in a timber ship to the government officials at home ; who, having duly shaped and pruned it into a flag-staff, returned it to the land of its birth at some considerable expense to John Bull. The citadel is of no mean extent, but covers about forty acres of ground, and necessarily requires a very strong garrison ; if they were exposed to shell or vertical fire from the opposite side of the river, or from the western side of the place, as there is no defence provided, they would certainly suffer great loss. It is obvious that a permanent work must be built at Point Levi, to sweep the approaches and prevent the establishment of hostile batteries on the river. A regular bastion with outworks should be constructed on the heights above the point, in order to make Quebec safe. There are also dangers to be apprehended from the occupation of the railway terminus at Riviere du Loup which do not affect Quebec immediately, but are, nevertheless, to be carefully guarded against. In the event of war appearing imminent, a temporary work to cover the terminus on the land side, and sweep the river, would be necessary. There exist the remains of some outworks in advance of the citadel, which are so well placed that it would be very desirable to reconstruct defences on their sites. X 2 116 CANADA. They are called the French works, and their position does credit to the skill of the engineer who chose it. The British flag has waved for just 102 years from Cape Diamond, but the Fleur-de-lys had fluttered on the same point for 220 years, with the exception of the three years from 1629 to 1632, when Sir David Kirke placed Quebec in our hands. Nothing proves the inaccuracy of artillery in those days more strikingly than the inability of the French, on Cape Diamond, to prevent the British transports landing their men at Point Levi, although the St. Lawrence is little more than 1000 yards broad opposite the citadel. By our bombardment, however, we nearly laid Quebec in the dust before the action. On account of the very natural remembrance of the glory of Wolfe's attack, his death and victory, it has almost been forgotten that our first attempt to land at Montmorenci was repulsed by Montcalm with the loss of 500 men ; and it was only when the original scheme failed, that Wolfe conceived the plan of re- embarking his troops, and landing above the town. He had 8000 regular troops; the French had 10,000 men, but of these only five battalions were regular French soldiers. Montcalm believed no doubt that he could drive the British into the river, or force them to sur- render, and he threw the force of his attack on the British right, which rested on the river. The French right, consisting of Indians and Canadians, was easily routed ; the French left, deprived of the services of its general and of his second in command, was ultimately broken, and fled towards the town, covered in some degree by the centre battalions, which fell back steadily ; nor was it till five davs after the battle that Quebec fell Frei WOLFE — MURRAY — ARNOLD. 117 3ir position chose it. years from uttered on tion of the avid Kirke ry in those he French, transports jh the St. id opposite , we nearly nee of the ory, it has bt to land I with the le original Ian of re- own. He ,000 men, ar French he could oa to sur- 3k on the le French was easily ices of its iltimately in some : steadily ; uebec fell into our hands. The fire must have been exceedingly close and desperate ; and its effects speak well for the efficiency of old Brown Bess at close quarters, for out of the force engaged, the British lost over 630, and the French 1500, of whom 1000 were wounded or taken prisoners. There was little artillery engaged ; for we had but one, and the French but two or three pieces on the heights. A very few months afterwards we had nigh lost that which we had so gallantly and fortunately gained. On the 28th April next year, General Murray, fol- lowing the example of Montcalm, and depriving himself of the advantages which a position inside the walls of Quebec would have given him, moved out on the heights of Abraham, with 3000 men and twenty guns, to oppose the French under the Chevalier de Levi, who were moving down upon the city. In an ill-conceived attack on the enemy, Murray lost no less than 1000 men and all his guns, and had to retreat to the city. He was only relieved by the arrival of a British squadron in the river, which compelled the French to retire with the loss of all their artillery. Looking down upon the narrow path below the parapet, one must do credit to the daring of Arnold, Montgomery, and the Americans in their disastrous attempt to carry the citadel by an escalade. Arnold, after his astonishing march and desperate perils by the Kennebeck and Chaudiere — which has been well styled by General Carmichael Smyth one of the most won- derful instances of perseverance and spirit of enterprise upon record — followed the course pursued by Wolfe ; and embarking at Point Levi, occupied the heights of Abraham, but when Montgomery joined him from B I- '^' 118 CANADA. Montreal, it was found they had no heavy artillery. Thus they were forced either to march back again, or to try to carry the place by storm. Two columns, led by Arnold and Montgomery, endeavoured to push through the street at the foot of the citadel, one from the east and another from the west. The Canadians say, that after Montgomery carried the entrenchment, which extended from the foot of the cliff to the river, he rushed at the head of his column, followed by a group of officers, towards a second work, on which was mounted a small field-piece. The Americans were just within twenty yards when a Canadian fired the gun, which was loaded with grape. Montgomery and the ofiicers who followed him were swept down in a heap of killed and wounded, and the column at once fled in confusion. Arnold, who had forced his way into the houses under the citadel, was carried back wounded soon after his gallant advance : and the Canadians again claim for one of their own countrymen, named Dambourges, the honour of having led the sort'e from the citadel which charged the Americans, and forced those who were not slain to surren 3r. Certainly the Canadians showed upon that occasion, as no doubt they would again, a strong indisposition to fraternise with the American apostles of liberty, equality, and fraternity; they harassed their com- munications, and, under their seigneurs, cut off several detachments. The attempt on Quebec was never repeated; and the Americans fared but ill in both their Canadian campaigns. • ! A well-organised expedition made in winter-time would now be attended with far greater danger than it was in former days, and if the snow remained in good war on t these the whic work the resist and STRENGTH OP QUEBEC. 119 good condition, artillery, provisions, and munitions of war could be transpoi od with greater facility than on the ordinary country roads. Quebec would, under these circumstances, be deprived of the co-operation of the fleet ; but with the improvement in the defence which would be effected by the erection of a regular work at Point Levi, and by the alterations indicated in the citadel itself, Quebec would be in a position to resist any force the Americans might direct against it, and would have nothing to fear except from regular siege operations, which there was no chance of inter- rupting or raising. It would be most important to have the feeling? of the inhabitants enlisted on our side. I fear thtro is reason to believe that they are antagonistic to the Americans, rather than violently enamoured of ourselves. Having enjo 1 a view from the Flag-staff Tower, 350 feet above the river, which in summer must be one of the grandest in the world, and which even now was full of interest, my visit to the Citadel was terminated by lunch in the mess-room, and I returned homewards through the city. I was encircled with people enjoying the keen bright air, though the thermometer was twenty degrees below freezing point. Not the least interesting to me of the people were the habitans in their long robes gathered in round the waist by scarlet or bright-coloured sashes, with long boots, and fur caps, and French faces, chatting in their Old-World French ; and the monks, or regular clergy, who moved as beings of another age and world through the more modern types of civilisation — such as fast officers in fast sleighs, and the Anglicised families in their wheelless caleches. I had the honour of an invitation to dine at 120 CANADA. the club called Stadacona, which is a corruption or modification of Indian words signifying "the site of a strait," where I met a number of the citizens of Quebec at an excellent substantial dinner, which had far more of English tastes than of French cookery about it. The conversation did not disclose any symptoms of the tendency towards Americanisation which the Northern journals are so fond of attributing to the people of Canada ; but it was perceptible that a war with America was regarded as an evil which could only fall on Canada because of her connection with Great Britain, and that Great Britain ought therefore to take a main part in it. The Canadians are proud of the part borne by De Salaberry and others in the former war; but. greatly as the country has advanced, I doubt if there is now such a population of ready, hardy fighting men as then existed : for most of the hunters, lumberers, and nomad half-castes, who cannot be called settlers, have been absorbed in cultivated lands and settled habits. The appointment of British oflBcers to orga- nise and command the volunteers has given offence ; and I think it would be advisable, if not necessary, in case of actual war, to let the volunteers choose their officers within certain limits, and to give the authorities corresponding to our lords-lieutenant of counties power to name the commanding officers of corps, under the sanction of the Governor-General. CHAPTER VIII. Lower Canada and Ancient France — Soldiers in QaiTiaon at Quebec — Canadian Volunteers — The Governor-General Viscount Monck — Uniform in tbe United States — A Sleighing Party — Dinner and Calico Ball. I AM afraid that in this Lower Canada just now we do but occupy the position of a garrison. The aspect and the habit of the popular mind are foreign, but they are not French any more — at least modern French ; rather are they of an Old- World France — of a France when there was an ancient faith and a son of St. Louis ; Avhen there was a white flag blazoned with fleur-de-lys, and a priesthood dominant — a France loyal, chivalrous, and bigoted, without knowledge and without railways, content to stand on ancient paths, and hating reform and active mutation. What a change has occurred since the old Bourbon struck the medal with its inscription, "Francia in Novo Orbe Victrix, Kebeca Liberata. 1690." There may be many in Canada who cannot forget their origin and their race, kept alive in their memories by a common tongue, ancient traditions, and antipathy to a foreign rule exercised from a far-off land, and sometimes manifested by rude, rough instruments, and by a mechanism of force ; but it would be well for them to remember that, whilst France has passed through many convulsions, Canada has been saved from external and 122 CANADA. 1 'I m internal foes, with the exception of the American in- vasion in 1812, and the troubles caused by her own dis- affected people at a later period, whilst as an appanage of France she must have undergone incessant anxieties and assaults. She has been spared the agonies of the Revolution, the exhaustive glories and collapse of the Empire, the reaction of the " Desired one" — the consequences of the convulsions of 1830, of 1848, of 1852. Great Britain, too, is bound to remember that she is dealing with a brave and ancient race/delivered to her rule under treaty, who have, on the whole, resisted many temptations, and preserved a firm attachment to her government in the face of an aggressive and pro- sperous Republic. Our soldiers must be taught to respect the people of Canada as their equals and fellow- subjects — a hard lesson perhaps for imperious islanders, but not the less necessary to learn, if we would pre- serve their attachment and our territories. In justice to them I must say that the 60th Rifles gave no occasion to the people to complain, though Quebec is not destitute of its *' rough" fellows, and of provocations; and that during my stay in Canada I only heard of one instance in which officers or men could be accused of indiscretion or want of respect for the people. Whiskey is shockingly cheap and atro- ciously bad, and public-houses are only too numerous, so that the base upon which the evils which afflict the soldier rest is not wanting here any more than at home. A garrison rule must be very galling unless the officers and men are minded to behave themselves, and it would cause me regret if my observations of some regrettable circumstances in that relation were confil DINNER AT LORD MONCK S. 123 confirmed by larger experience. Of course the peasants are provoking; they are heavy and coarse, relying on their vis inertia, and aggressively passive. The other day, for instance, when Lord Monck was leading his sleigh party, several country carts came down from the opposite direction in the deep track, and it was with the utmost difficulty the driver of our party avoided collision with them, as the habitans would not get out of the way. Still one does not like to see young Greenhorn of the Invincibles flicking up the bourgeoisie with his whip as he whisks round a corner, for not getting out of the way. A gallant captain of volunteer artillery complained greatly of matters of this kind, but he also expressed very unrea- sonable jealousy respecting the appointment of English officers to superintend, and organise, and command the force. February llth. — Still more snow falling, and the cold sharper than ever. Visited the Parliament Houses and Library, of which more hereafter; saw the Ursuline Chapel; called on Mr. Cartier, Mr. Macdonald, Mr. Cauchon, and Mr. Gait, members of the Ministry, to whom I had introductions. In the evening dined with the Governor- General and Lady Monck at Government House. Although His Excellency has been but a short time in the country, and succeeded an able, energetic man, he has already gained the confidence of men diffi- cult to win, and gives fair promise of administering the affairs of the provinces with sagacity and vigour. It occurred to me, considering the position of Canada, that, to escape from the consequences of divided views and command, it would be desirable to have the military and civil administration in one hand at critical junc- m I V ii 124 CANADA. tures, or to send out a soldier as Governor- General. To be a good soldier one must be gifted with the faculties which constitute a good ruler, and the civilian can only possess those same qualities minus the special knowledge of the professional military man. Lord Monckj however, has applied himself with ability and zeal to the consideration of the provincial defences. The table of the Canadian Viceroy was elegant and hospitable ; and it was a relief to the eye to catch such semblance of state as was afforded by the scarlet uniforms and gold lace of the aides-de-camp, military secretary, and others of His Excellency's household, who were at dinner, after the long monotony of American black. Not but that now and then uniform was creeping in at private dinner-tables in the States also, principally on the persons of foreign-born officers. But it is, or rather it was, opposed to the custom of the country. I remember Mr. Seward telling me one day, when we met in Washington, that it was contrary to eti- quette for a foreigner to wear the livery of his royal master or mistress in the United States. Soon after- wards I saw at table a colonel in full uniform of the French infantry; but, on inquiry, I learned he waa in command of a New York regiment composed of his exiled compatriots ; and a very gallant regiment — in spite of its Anglophobia, loudly expressed during the Trent affair — it proved itself. Even here let me tell a story. When the colonel in question, who had been for many years a journalist in New York, ap- peared in Washington, after getting his commission, he repaired to the house of an astute and witty diplomatist, with whom he had an ancient intimacy. " Ah ! my A SLEIGHINa PARTY. 125 or-General. i with the the civilian the special an. Lord ability and ^fences, ilegant and catch such :he scarlet p, military household, notony of 3n uniform the States rn oflBcers. custom of day, when ry to eti- his roval oon after- rm of the he waa oposed of giment — ;d during re let me who had i^ork, ap- ission, he jlomatist. Ah ! my \ dear colonel," exclaimed the Minister^ " by accepting the command of your regiment, you have cut short the friendship of ten years." " How is that. Excellence?" " Why, how can we ever meet again as of yore ? I cannot dine with you ; for how dare I present myself in your camp ? " '* Why not, Excellence ? " " Why, my dear friend, do you think I could ever get my hair dressed well enough to please the five hundred French coiffeurs in your regiment ? " " But, at all events, my dear Minister, I can come and dine with you 1 " " Impossible, my friend ! How could I venture to ask a mjin to dinner who has under his orders five hundred French cooks ! " More snow. The landlord is rather impressed with the news that the Union army is positively about to march on Richmond at once; and, indeed, it is only the sceptical mind, with some knowledge of facts, that can resist the effect of the constant iteration of false- hoods in the American papers, which never loses its influence on the American mind. February 12th. — Notwithstanding a slight fall of white rain. Lord Monck had a sleighing party to Lorette, an Indian village, where we repaired in great force, ladies and gentlemen, furred and muffed, and enjoyed ourselves greatly, lunching in a very pleasant rustic sort of auberge, half- buried in the snow. These sleighing parties render a Canadian winter tolerable, and there is a certain degree of " chance of being lost" which commends them to the adventurous and forms a theme for many small stories-. On our coming home, we had nigh experienced one of these mild adventures, for the snow fell again and ob- scured the face of the country — a very white and 126 CANADA. well-washed face indeed, with no remarkable features in it, — and it was by chance we got on the track at a certain turn in the road, which was only marked out by the summits of the submerged fences and hedges peering over the drift, and looking uncommonly like each other all over the country. This little ex- perience of travel rather dispelled notions I had of the great practicability of a winter campaign, for it would be quite impossible to move guns and troops with certainty in a country where all movements depended on the snow not falling, in opposition to the probability that it would do so. The officers of the COth Rifles entertained His Excellency at dinner in the evening, and I had the honour of being invited to meet him. The entertain- ment took place in the mess-room of the citadel. Little more than a century ago, M. de Montcalm may have been dining on the same spot with the regiment of Musketeers of Guienne. Who may dine there in 1963 ? The evening was ended at a " calico " ball for the benefit of the poor of the city, which was attended by the townspeople only, the ladies being dressed in calico, which was afterwards, I beUeve, with the receipts, dis- tributed to the indigent. February 13th. — Accompanied Mr. Bernard, who kindly placed his knowledge and good offices at my disposal, to see some of the lions of the city ; and, thus ably conducted, I visited the Parliament Houses, the Library, the Ursuline Convent, the Rink, and many other places ; I dined in the evening with Mr. Gait, the Finance Minister, whom I had the pleasure of meeting at "Washington some time before. Mr. Cartier, the head of the Administration, and nearly all the Ministers, DINNER AND BALL. 127 were present. Afterwards attended a hall at Mr. Cauchon^s, one of Mr. Gait's colleagues, which was an asserahlage of the elite of the old French society of the place. My companions left me to-day for', *';',«jnd, where one was anxious to take his seat on tl >',ning of Parliament, and the other went with him, I suppose, for companionship's sake. A CHAPTER IX. Canadian "viev of the American Struggle — English OBScers in the States — My own position in the States and in Canada — The Ursulines in Quebec — General Montcalm — French Canadians — Imperial Honours — Celts and Saxons — Salmon Fishing — Parly Government of Canada — Past and Future. Whilst I was in Quebec the American papers ceased not to record great Union successes, impending expe- ditions, and, as is their wont, to throw out hints of some inscrutable woe conceived by the head of Stan- ton, and to be wrought by the arm of McClellan on the South. " Jeff. Davis going to Texas or Mexico — The neck of the rebeUion broken — Our young Napoleon preparing for the last grand campaign." Many of our officers were very anxious to visit the Federal armies, but the tone of the Northern press was so exceedingly virulent and insulting toward Englishmen, that tiie authorities, mistaking their license for the real opinion of Americans, discouraged applications for leave as much as possible. This was to be regretted; the more so that those officers who went from Canada to the States were not provided with any official letters, and were, indeed, in some instances, misguided so far as to con- ceal their military character. It could not but have been most useful to our officers to have been enabled to take fair measure of the svstem and capabilitv of an American army, North or South ; to have formed an estimate of their generals and of the value of their BRITISH COMMISSIONERS. 129 GBcera in the Canada — The Canadians — ishing — garly )ers ceased iing expe- it hints of i of Stan- [^lellan on Mexico — Napoleon iny of our al armies, ceedingly that the il opinion as much re so that le States nd were, s to con- but have enabled ibilitv of } formed of their several arras — cavalry, artillery, and infantry, each of which presented conspicuous examples of what to avoid, more especially the first, whilst the second had peculiar features worthy of study, and the third was a very wonderful illustration of the volunteer prin- ciple. When I represented the importance of sending officers to the armies for the special purpose of exa- mining and reporting on their condition, I was met by the reply that it would be a violation of neutrality to dispatch commissioners to the Federal army, unless similar officers were sent to the Confederate head- quarters ; and tlhat it would not be possible to adopt the latter step, as the Washington Government would not grant them leave to go through the lines, and would resent the proposal. When some officers were at last dispatched with an official sanction to the army at Yorktown, they made their appearance in a forlorn, destitute, and helpless condition, which made their companions in arras blush for thera. For myself, 1 had every reason to believe that no ob- jection would be made to my accompanying the array under General McClellan. Several senators who had given me their good wishes, were most desirous that I should be able to set off an account of a victory against the narrative of the retreat from Bull Run. Although I had been recovering a little from the effects of the ludicrous and malignant falsehoods cir- culated against me up to the Trent affair, I was tres mat vu in some quarters in Washington, and of course I was included in the general outburst against all British subjects with which the surrender of Mason and Slidell was accompanied. i s M 130 CANADA. In Canada I had recovered health and cpirits ; nay, more — some small shreds of popularity in the States. The secretaries of literary institutions renewed their requests for lectures, the autograph hunters sought the post-office once more with their flattering though ill- spelt missives ; but there was no inducement to return to the States till the army of McClellan was actually about to take the field. The exploits of the army of the West had, indeed, attracted my eyes in that direc- tion. The capture of Fort Henry and Fort Donelson promised well for its future career, but if I travelled so far out of my way I should have lost my chance of seeing the most brilHant and important campaign. The chief interest was certainlv concentrated on the m Potomac, and in the operations against Richmond. The West was far away, and it would have been a chance against my letters reaching home so as to anti- cipate the exaggerated illusions of the New York journals. And so I quietly waited and watched till the news from the States became so triumphant and decided that it behoved me to return, lest some im- portant movement should take place on the Potomac. As I could not be with more than one army, I then resolved to follow the . fortunes of McClellan's great host, which indeed was regarded by Americans them- selves with the greatest anxiety. And so, after a few days, I set about leaving cards and paying farewell visits to those who had so kindly entreated me in the City of the Strait. The learned institutions, the libraries, the machinery of education, the various literary and scientific asso- ciations, and the admirable seminaries of Quebec, are most creditable to the community ; they would place THE URSULINES. 131 »irits; nay, :he States. ewed their sought the though ill- t to return as actually le army of that direc- b Donelson I travelled chance of campaign. ted on the Richmond. ive been a as to anti- S'ew York atched till Dhant and some im- Potomac. ny, I then an's great ans them- 'ter a few iwell visits he City of nachinery ific asso- aebec, are uld place that city on a level with some of the most learned of European cities of far greater antiquity ; and the public spirit and intelligence of its citizens have been fully evinced in the aid and support they have rendered to institutions designed for the spread of knowledge. The public buildings have also the stamp of re- spectable antiquity upon them ; none of them possess any considerable architectural merits, but several are exceedingly interesting. Constant fires have proved nearly ruinous to the buildings erected by the original settlers ; and those which have been subse- quently built are not remarkable for beauty — indeed, I may say that the Laval University is one of the plainesc buildings it has ever been my lot to behold. On all sides it is admitted that the nuns of the Ursuline Convent have conferred the greatest benefit upon the city by their unceasing devotion to the task of education. Many people of respectability — Protestants as well as Catholics — send their children to be educated by these excellent women, representing the system inaugurated more than 200 years ago by Madeleine de Chauvigny, who, moved by grief for the loss of her husband to devote herself to Heaven, and to the spread of the Christian faith, sailed forth from France, and, landing at Quebec, established schools for the Indian girls to learn the faith of the white race, which was destined to destroy their own. The Ursuline Convent is a massive building, ugly as most convents of modern date are, standing amidst the houses of the city. The day I visited it there were no means of seeing the schools, and I was obliged to be content with a sight of the chapel instead. On ringing the bell by the side of a massive iron-bound door, I K 2 m^ 132 CANADA. :M was admitted to the front of a grille, through which I conveyed my wishes to *he unseen lady who demanded the purport of my visit ; and, after a short delay, the clergyman attached to the service of the church was ready, and an old Swiss or porteress conducted me to the entrance of the chapel, which is of large size, of no pretensions to architectural beauty, and of little interest to me for anvthirfic but the fact that within its walls lie the bones of ]\' ntcalra. The Ursulines, however, are of opinion that they have got a collection oi paintings of merit, and I was calle upon to admire some extraordinary specimens of art /ery nearly approaching the class denominated daubs, which were not recommended even bv antiquity. Although the priest bore a pure Irish patronymic, he had never been in the British isles, having been edu- cated in France, where he was born, whence he came out to Canada in the course of his ministry. He was an agreeable, intelligent, gentlemanly man, but he had evidently no faith in the pictures, and probably not much greater in some other remarkable decorations exhibited within the holy walls. The altar-piece and two or three subjects belonging probably to the old convent, rescued the collection from entire condemna- tion. On the wall of the chapel, on the left-hand side from the entrance, there is a marble slab, on which are engraved the following words : " Honneur a Montcalm ! Le destin en lui derobant la victoire I'a recompense par une mort glorieuse ! " The graceful words are due to Lord Aylmer. Montcalm received his death-wound from a ball fired by the only piece of artillery which we could get up the heights; but like his great rival MONTCALM. 133 a •which I iemanded ielay, the urch was ted me to ;e size, of i of little at within that they ind I was specimens 3ominated antiquity. nyraic. he been edu- he came He was ut he had jably not ecorations piece and the old ondemna- side from vhich are ontcalm ! pense par re due to th- wound ry which eat rival and conqueror he was wounded in the fight by a musket-shot at a comparatively jarly stage of the battle. Like Wolfe, too, Montcalm loved literature: " egalement propre aux batailles et aux academies, son desir etait d'unir aux lauriers de Mars les palmes de Minerve." The following is a translation of the inscription and epitaph written by the Academy of Inscriptions and Belles Lettres of Paris in 1701, and inscribed on a monument which that bodv had designed to erect in Quebec, but which never reached that city, the vessel on which it had been embarked having been lost at sea : "Herb Lieth In either hemisphere to live for ever, LEWIS JOSEPH DE MONTCALM a0Z0N,J Marquis of St. Vdran, Baron of Qabriac, Commander of the Order of St. Lewis, Lieuteuant-General of the French army ; not less an excellent citizen than soldier, ' who knew no desire but that of TRUE qlort; Happy in a natural genius, improved by literature ; Having gone through the several steps of military honours with an uninterrupted lustre ; skilled in all the arts of war, the juncture of tha times and the crisis of danger; In Italy, in Bohemia, in Qermany, an indefatigable general : He so discharged his important trusts, that he seemed always equal to still greater. At length, grown bright with perils, sent to secure the province of Canada, with a handful of men, he mci-e than once repulsed the enemy's forces, and made himself master uf their forts, replete with troops and nmmuuition. Inured to cold, hunger, watching and labours, unmindful of himself, r I ■l 134. CANADA. he had no sensation but for his soldiers : An enemy with the fiercest impetuosity ; a victor with the tenderest humanity ; adverse fortune he compensated with valour; the want of strength with skill and activity; and, with his counsel ani' support, for four years protracted the impending fate of the colony. Having, with various artifices, long baffled a great army, headed by an expert and intrepid commander, and a fleet furnished with all warlike stores, compelled at length to an engagement, he fell — in the first rank — in the first onset, warm with those hopes of religion which he had always cherished ; to the inexpressible loss of his own army, and not without the regret of the enemy's, XIV September, A.D. MDCCLIX. Of his age, XLVIII. Hia weeping countrymen deposited the remains of their excellent General in a grave which a fallen bomb in bursting had excavated for him, recommending them to the generous faith of their enemies." Had his counsel been taken by de Vaudreuil, we never could have occupied Point Levi, and in all pro- bability the expedition to Quebec would have failed. There is something exceedingly touching in the death of the two generals in the same battle. My guide, however, was more interested in calling my attention to the ornaments of the altar, and to a skull, which he assured me was that of Montcalm. lect ofF ♦*chie tesy " Through each lack-lustre eyeless hole, The gay recess of wisdom and of wit. And passion's host that never brook'd control," was seen filled with dust, and the priest held in his hand, like a cricket-ball, the home of the subtle Intel- jrave im, nies." eiiil, we tail pro- ailed • in the le. My ing my a skull, THE FRENCH CANADIANS.. 135 in his le intel- lect of the man who raised to such a height the power of France in the western world. When the old Indian "chief told Montcalm — "Tu es petit ! mais je vois dans tes yeux la hauteur du chene et la vivacitd des yeux des aigles/^ how little the politic, gallant Frenchman ever thought his skull would be kept in a box in a priest's cupboard, and shown as a curiosity to strangers from that barbarous Britain. I cannot say that the priest succeeded in pointing out anything as interesting among the pictures as even the skull of the Marquis de Montcalm. So far as I can ascertain, no Canadian- painter has yet been inspired by the faith and devotion which wrought such miracles and wonders in mediaeval Europe, to concentrate his talents on church pictures. There is not much good fellowship between the French Roman Catholics and their Irish co-religionists ; and I was told that few of the latter ever entered the chapel of the Ursulines, though they constitute an appreciable proportion of the population. The Cana- dians, indeed, retain a good deal of the old French sentiment, and regard the Irish very much as their ancestors, under St. Ruth, looked on the poor vassals of the Irish Jacobins. The Irish are, however, more energetic and restless, and do not lose by comparison with the unenterprising inhabitants. The feelings and faith of the French Canadian tend to keep up all that is French in his nature. Small wonder that it should be so. But it may be doubted whether he has much sympathy with the Empire, though he is proud of the glory and renown attained by the parent stock under the " Great Gaul " who founded it. 136 ca:^ada. In visiting the beautiful and well-ordered Library of the Houses of Parliament, the state of which does honour to the excellent curator, I observed several very liandsome volumes of the most cosilv works marked with the French imperial cipher. They had, it ap- peared, been presented to the Canadian Parliament by the Emperor Louis Napoleon, and they were pointed out to me with much pride and pleasure ; but I looked in vain for any such outward and visible sign of favour and policy on the part of the reigning House in Eng- land. The conduct of France towards Canada in former times, if not alwiys just to the settlers, was indeed exceedingly liberal to the landed interest ; on one occasion some sixteen country gentlemen were raised to the French peerage. The most a Canadian can hope for now is a barren baronetcy or the honours of the Bath. By conferring on our colonies, depen- dencies, and provinces very liberal democratic forms of government institutions, and at the same time refusing to give the counterpoise which an extension of the aristocratic system to them would bestow, we hasten the coming of the day when separation becomes in- evitable. When separation takes place, the difference of institutions begets opposition of views and of policy, distrust, and, finally, collision. One of my New York acquaintances, who professed to be somewhat of a philosopher, said, one day, he was quite sure the colonies never would have revolted, no matter how high tea was taxed, if the king had made a few of the leading Americans peers of the realm. The dream of an Imperial Senate with representatives from all the portions of the wide-spread territories of Great Britain may excite the imagination, but it is IMPERIAL HONOURS. 137 not likely to be ever realised. The honours which have been conferred on such men as Sir Etienne Tachc and Sir Narcisse Belleau, are highly prized, and a more liberal bestowal of the cheap defence of nations would do much to gratify the reasonable ambition of the Canadians. That there should be some — and not a little — jealousy of foreign interference and usurpation of places, profits, and honours, by the English families, is not unnatural. I am not persuaded that it was right to hand over the whole direction of the volunteer and militia organisation to British officers, who are by the many often identified with the last noisy ensign who has been playing pranks in the Rue de Montague. The remembrances of the old rebellion have not altogether died out, but it appeared to me that the Canadians are a mild, trac- table race, fond of justice, a little too fond of law, and quite content to live under any rule which secured them equal rights, and gave them facility for moderate litigation and religious exercises. While I was in Quebec some foolish young men stormed a house under a misapprehension as to its cha- racter. The same thing might have happened in Great Britain ; it would have excited no feeling — the perpe- trators might have compounded for their folly, or have suffered the penalty. Here the matter was hushed up, and some of the Canadians were vexed and angry. Provincials must necessarily be jealous of the smallest appearance of disrespect or show of distinctive justice between the two races. There are very few persons in England acquainted with the many ancient and glorious memories which endear Quebec to the French Canadians. Jacques • i 138 CANADA. Cartier is to them a greater discoverer and navigator than Captain '' ok is to us, and a long list of names thorouf^hly ^r^:l -h illustrate the early history of the city. De Frontenac, Le Chevalier de Levi, Dambourges and others are not known to those who are well ac- quainted with Wolfe and Montcalm. Quebec, though doubtless the oldest city existing on the continent, is in a very different condition from that in which it w^as for many a year after it was founded by Champlain, more than two centuries and a half ago. It is quite delightful, after a sojourn in the United States, to ramble through the tortuous streets, lined by tall narrow-windowed houses with irregular gables, even though an air of something like decay has settled upon the place. There is no trace in Quebec of the feverish activit3'' of American cities — no great hotels nor eager multitudes thronging the pavements ; but in summer the quays present a most animated appearance, for the noble waters of the St. Lawrence are then laden with stately ships, and traffic is carried on extensively in the exchange of the exhaustless forest-produce of the back country for the manufactures of Europe. The Indian squaws and their people have well-nigh vanished from the scene, and it would almost seem as though they were unfit to learn the doctrines of Chris- tianity — it is certain they had not qualities to permit of their flourishing in the midst of Christians. Other coloured races brought in contact with the white man have saved themselves from extermination bv service : but the individual Indian is feudatory to no man — he says " Ich Dien " to no created being. The result is, that, slowly and surely, he is driven further and further out into the waste, or is caught up in the waters of CELTIC AND SAXON CANADIANS. 139 civilisation, and held, like tho fly in amber, as a curious instance of the incompatibility of one substance with the surrounding particles of another. He will never again play a part in any contest whicli may take place between the British and Americans; notwithstanding the eflbrts made by the Confederates to use the Southern Indians in the })rescnt war, no adequate results have been obtained for the trouble. In the War of Independence the Indians served on both sides, but the odium of employing them in the first instance against the colonists must undoubtedly rest on the British ministry of the dav. Although the distance from Montreal to Quebec, taking the course of the river, is but 1(S0 miles, there is considerable difference in climate. The scenery around the capital of the Lower Province, and the present seat of Government, is more elevated and picturesque ; but the quality of the soil is not so favourable to agriculture. The habitant is a very different being from the Scotch or English farmer; he regards with aversion agricultural implements of the new school, and woos the earth to yield its fruits with the most simple appliances ; he is stubborn in his attachment to antique customs, and if he has most of the virtues, he assuredly has some of the faults of a purely rural agricultural population. The events of the rebelHori induced us, perhaps, to underrate the military capacity of the French Canadians, but they may point with pride to the deeds of their ancestors in defence of their soil against American invasion, and they would, no doubt, main- tain in the field the reputation of the race from which they spring. The great defect of the native is, perhaps. 140 CANADA. his want of enterprise. Pie rarely emigrates to new scenes of hibour, and even the inhabitant of the town shrinks from an encounter with the active American or Anglo-Saxon. Thus it is, at the present moment, tliat nearly all the agricultural and industrial enterprises of Lower Canada have originated with or boen developed by persons of a diflerent stock. Want of capital is the great evil which afflicts the inhabitants of both Cana- das, and even the oil-wells and gold mines have, to a large extent, fallen into the hands of the solid men of Boston, and of the hard men of New England ; but the Canadians would behave in the face of an enemy with the spirit, courage, and conduct which they have exhibited on their own limited battle-fields. It woiilu be of little value, within the limits of this volume, to attempt a recapitulation of the principal events of Canadian history, either in connection with its early founders or with the English government ; but surely the materials are not wanting for an interesting record of the struggles of the enterprising Europeans who contended so fiercely with barbarous races and an inclement clime to found what already promises to be a great nation. The savage has died out, or he has been civilised into a degraded creature for whom no place seems left at the great table of nature, and the civilised man his successor has learned to control and mollify the influences of climate, and to extort from the soil fruits in abundance. But Canada is bv no means as cold as it has been painted, or rather, it would be more proper to say, the cold there is not so intolerable as we think. It would astonish many people in this country to learn that the Northern States of America suffer more from cold than does the vast frontier region i-. tes to new f the town Lincrican or 3racnt, that terpriscs of I developed pital is the both Cana- ; have, to a jlid men of ;hind ; but an enemy I they have lits of this J principal action with ment ; but interesting Europeans races and romises to or he has whom no 3, and the >ntrol and from the no means would be itolerable e in this America er region SALMON FISHING. 141 of Canada which borders on the Lakes. In Iowa, for instance, tiie cold is more intense than at ^Montreal. Grapes and peaches ripen on the Canadian shores of the great lakes; plums, melons, tomatos, and apples thrive and grow to j)erfection in the provinces. As cultivation advances the rigour of M'intcr is appre- ciably diminished, although the farmers, with that cus- tomarv want of submission to the will of Providence which characterises all people who live in dependence on the seasons, complain that the frost is not as severe as it was in the good old times, and that they are deprived of the advantages of long-enduring snow and rigid winters. What glorious visions of shooting now and of fishing in spring had opened before me, if the Federal army would only stay quiet ! Not, indeed, that there is much sport for the rifle or fowling-piece now left in this part of Canada in winter, except moose, for which I did not care much, but that such strange scenes could be visited and described. In open weather there is a little shooting of quails, partridges, and ground game; before winter sets in there is plenty of wild tate, they 'ith Upper n but pity to better Western Id her by ights and al depen- 3 of war; ent works ts d'appui er, should ! imperial must be ntry from s can be points of emselves ry should Let them conduct [ites bear them no good will j and as the only power from which Canada has anything to fear, the Americans would be just as likely to make war against the Province as against the Empire, and trust to their own impreg- nability, except at sea, as a guarantee against any dan- gerous consequences. The future is beyond our ken. There are prophets who long ago predicted the amalgamation of the Upper Province with the West, and who now find greater hope for the realisation of their soothsayings in the ap- proaching dissolution of the Federal States. Others there are who see u. no distant time the re-establish- ment of a French dependency on the northern portion of the Anglo-Saxon States, already hemmed in on the slave border by the shadowy outlines of an empire under French protection. When we see what has taken place on that continent within the last hundred years, it is not to be said that combinations and occur- rences much more wonderful will not come to pass before the present century closes. The policy of a State, as the duty of an individual, is to do what is right and leave the future to work out its destiny. L 2 CHAPTER X. Canadian Hospitality — MuflBns — Departure for the States — Desertions — Montreal again — Southerners in Montreal— Drill and Snow Shoes — Winter Campaigning — Snow Drifts — Military Discontent. Although ray residence in Quebec was very short, I left the city with regret. Compared with the cities of the States, its antiquity is venerable and its ways are peace; but from what I heard of public amuse- ment in summer time I should say that life here would be found dull, as compared with existence in a European capital, or in a city so vainly gay and pro- fitably festive as New York. There is no great wealth among the people, but a moderate competency is largely enjoyed, and neither wealth nor poverty attains undue dimensions. I found at Quebec a very agreeable society, the tone of feeling which prevails in a capital, the utmost hos- pitality. Had I had a hundred mouths they would here all have been kept busy. Invitations came in scores, and were to be resisted with difficulty. Know- ing all this I am the more astonished at the recent statements which I have heard, that the Canadians have not extended any civilities to our officers. If so, a great change must have taken place. I am not now DEP.\ 'RE FOR THE STATES. UO — Desertions I Snow Shoes ntent. y short, I the cities 1 its ways ic amuse- life here ence in a and pro- at wealth is largely ns undue the tone most hos- ey would came in Know- le recent Canadians 3. If so, not now talking of slcigl parties, but of the hospitality of the inner house lie fair Canadians may have been too kind in accc) iig the name and position of " muf- fins " from thr oung Britishry j but the latter can- not say they Viive suffered much in consequence. A muffin is simply a lady who sits beside the male occu- pant of the sleigh — Sola cum solo, " and all the rest is leather and prunella.'' The social system is intended rather for the comfort of the inner life, and for tho development of domestic happiness, than for such external glare and glitter as Broadway delights in, or for such unsound social rela- tions as mark the America of hotels. The great artists who adorn the drama or the lyric stage can rarely be bribed sufficiently high to visit these northern regions ; but I doubt whether there is not a better taste in art among the people of Quebec than there is to be found in most cities of the same size in the United States. On a gloomy winter evening I was once more battling with the ice on the St. Lawrence ; and, after a long passage, left Point Levi for Montreal. A weary life-long night it seemed, and a still wearier day in the train. It was close upon twenty-one hours of stuffy, foodless travel, ere we arrived at Montreal. Nor can I remember anything worth recording of all that linked weariness, long drawn out, except that, halting at a roadside station in the night, I came on a detachment of the Scots Fusilier Gujirds, who had come up from Riviere du Loup, after their passage in sleighs over the snows of New Brunswick, and were in high spirits, looking very red in the face, and bulky in comparison with the lean habitans. " Misthress," quoth one of them to the woman at the bar, " wad ye gi'e me a dhrap av I %1^ 150 CANADA. [ \ whuskie ? " The Hebe complied with this request, and for some very srr^all pecuniary consideration tilled him out nearly a tumblerful of the dreadful preparation known in the States as " Fortyrod." The soldier tasted it, blinked his eyeS;, squeezed them close, pursed up his lips, smacked them, gave a short watery cough, smelt the mixture, and, looking at his comrades, exclaimed, " My Gude ! Hech ! Td jist as soon face a charge of \ laynets." After that proem I was prepared to see the j'iprdy warrior eject the fluid, but he proceeded to a most in -oj- sequent act: for, nodding his head, he said, ''Sae, hert'd t'ye, my lads," and tossed down the fire-water incontinent. There were several companies of H.M.'s 63rd Regiment in the train, also going up to Montreal. It did not escape me that at the station pickets were looking sharply out for intending deserters, who might have cut away in the darkness; and I was told, and felt inclined to believe it might be worth their while, that there were Yankee crimps lying in wait at all the stations to help the deserters across the frontier, if they could induce them to leave their colours. The anxiety and annoyance caused by desertion, and by the chance of it, add to the dissatisfaction which is now expressed in our army in Canada; but I must say I cannot quite sympathise with the violence and exagge- ration in which that dislike finds vent. Captains of companies suffer losses, but in many instances they have only themselves to blame. The men, seduced by high pay, either in the States or as farm-labourers in Canada, are seized with an irre- sistible desire to quit the service abruptly, "without leave/' and resort to ingenious artifices to escape. quest, and tilled him •reparation [Her tasted sed up his ugh, smelt exclaimed, charge of to see the to a most aid, ''Sae, fire-water [/s 63rd treal. It iets were ho might , and felt hile, that all the 3utier, if rs. The td by the is now ist sav I SOUTHERNERS IN MONTREAL. 151 exagge- n many e. The es or as ^n irre- without escape. Sometimes a whole guard will march off bodily, non- commissioned officers and all; occasionally one of the number will submit to be handcuffed, and will be marched by his comrades through the post rs a deserter, or a man will put on a sergeant's jacket or sew chevrons on his coat sleeve, and march off his party as if they were going out on picket or patrol duty. Such artifices cannot always be successfully encountered, but they are to be met to some extent by increased vigilance. I need not say that it was with satisfaction I exchanged my railway van for a comfortable room in the house of Mr. Rose at Montreal. The ne -t '^f an immediate advance of the army of the Potomac vbich had been received from New York turned out to be untrue ; no immediate hurry was there need for to go down to the seat of war. I dined at the club, where we had a very agreeable party, enlivenec by the fervent conver- sation of some Southern gentlemen of the little colony of refugees which finds shelter in Montreal under tiie British flag. There is some work of Nemesis in the condition of these gentlemen. Here are Charleston people, who claimed the right to imprison British sub- jects because they had dark skins, now taking refuge under the British flag, from the exercise of the very power which enabled them to maintain their claim, and apologising to Englishmen for the peculiar institu- tion on the ground that they treated their niggers better than the Yankees do. The snow again falling, and the day cold. On the Sun- day after my arrival, I walked into town in moccasins, and attended service in Christchurch, wliere the ritual was in close imitation of the cathedral formula at home. I saw a party of the Guards marched to church, 152 CANADA. who had an air of profound discontent on their manly features. Some Canadians near me evidently regarded them as hardened lieretics going to a place of punish- ment, and at the same time deserving it as foreign mercenaries : but the Guards certainly did not seem to care one farthing for their opinion, if they under- stood the expression of it. The building is very hand- some ; but, in spite of the cold outside, I found the atmosphere unbearable, owing to the stoves, iron pipes, or some other undesirable calorific apparatus. The ser- mon was respectable and frigid. I spent the next day visiting the remarkable places and persons passed over in Montreal on my last brief visit. In the evening I dined with Colonel Kelly and H.M.'s 47th Regiment, who entertained Sir Fenwick Wil- liams and the officers of the Guards then in garrison, and on the following morning at 9 o'clock I drove over to the Barracks to see a drill of the regiment on the St. Lawrence in snow shoes. Sir Fenwick Williams and some staff officers were on the ground. The regiment was admirably handled by Colonel Kelly, and the scene was very novel and amusing. The regiment was in excellent condition : the men seemed rather to like the fun with the snow shoes, and when skirmishers were thrown out or called in at the double, there was certainty of a fall or two from unlucky privates tripping up in their shoes and tumbling in the snow, which flew like puflfs of musketry. Fresh from parades of volunteers I felt the force of Lord Clyde's maxim — " The first duty of a soldier is to obey " — as I looked at the measured tread even at the quickest, and the alert, agile formations of the men to whom discipline was the whole scope of military intell macll movil Unit! for til rcgiii WINTER CAMPAIGNING. 153 intellect. There was, I thought, in that complex machine of many parts, but of only one animating, moving power, what would be cheaply bouglit by the United States l)y many hundreds of thousands of dollars for the purposes of war, though man toman one of their regiments might be more intelligent, and quite as capable of deeds of valour as the old ITth, of whom indeed not many had the Crimean medal, though the campaign is now but a few years old. In the evening I dined with the Commander-in- Chief, Sir Fenwick Williams, and met Mr. Cartier, Mr. Gait, and Mr. Rose. The letters from England which came by every mail showed that the position was not much understood, as it was believed there would be a speedy movement of the army of the Potomac, which I knew to be buried in mud. The American papers of course deluded their readers by constant assurances that McClellan was about to move next week. It would seem, after all, that in new countries the practice of going into winter quarters, which prevailed among sixteenth and seventeenth century generals, was founded on good reason; but that as the land became better drained, and the roads were improved by civilisation and popu- lations, the necessity for inaction was diminished. Napoleon astonished Europe by some wonderful escapades in the field ; but even in the Peninsula the British suffered greatly in winter movements. In the old French war, operations in Canada were usually over in August or early in September ; but the Americans, in their bold and skilful campaign of 1775, commenced their invasion or dash late in the year — managed so well that they broke in almost simultaneously at Mon- \u CANADA. treal and Quebec, on tlie British, who had only one regular regiment in the Provinces, in November — and it was on the last day of the year that Montgomery and Arnold made their brilliant and unsuccessful attempt to carry the citadel by escalade. Again, in 1812, it was as late as October before the Americans opened their campaign on the Niagara frontier ; and it was about the middle of November when they directed their ill-managed and abortive de- monstration against Montreal. They again moved in January, 1813, and several actions took place in the early months of the year, nor did the approach of winter drive the contending parties from the field ; and a good deal of sharp fighting took place in December. In the following year the Americans began the oflfensive at a later period, though the corps intended to operate against the Montreal district was in motion in the first week of March. Our defeat at Plattsburg occurred on September 11th. The Americans make much of it — with great justice. They defeated the best regiments of an army which had proved itself, in face of the picked troops of Napoleon, the first in Europe. When winter is well established in these high latitudes, perhaps it is, under ordinary circumstances, more favourable to military operations than it is in lower latitudes, where tremendous rains alternate with heavy snow storms, which do not form permanent deposits over which to move men or guns. On the following day I dined with Mr. Chamberlain, of the "Montreal Gazette,'' Mr. Rose, Mr. Ryland, IMajor Penn, and a number of gentlemen connected with the Canadian press, at a famous old-fashioned Englisli tavern, kept by an old-fashioned John Bull cook, who would and di fashioij world I, unud out to| sleigh- dens, off a 1 moon, only li whiten As I sleigh- vehicle pant, : was th hospitii efforts The great connec compe wards outer young favour diffusi compc directi range, wards the I J only one niber — and ^ornery luid ful attempt SN()V7 DRIFTS. 155 ' before tlie le Niagara November bortive de- moved in nee in the pproach of the field; place in lans began s intended in motion Mattsburir ans make d the best f, in face II Europe, latitudes, es, more in lower ith heavy deposits crlain, of d, j\Iajor with the English 3ok, who would have fainted outright at the sight of a vol-au-vent and died of an omelette ylacce, where we had much old- fashioned English talk. On our issuing into the outer world there was a snow-fall going on, the like of which I, unaccustomed, had never seen before; and my voyage out to Mr. Rose's was diversified by attempts of the sleigh-driver to get over boundary-walls j'nd into gar- dens, till we came to a dead .-.top just as the fall cleared off a little, and p'^rmitted us to get a glimpse of the moon. But the moon gave no assistance, for its rays only lighted up great snow mounds and a universal whiteness, and the road seemed as doubtful as ever. As I was deliberating what was best to be done, a sleigh-bell was heard jingling in th? distance, and the vehicle gradually approached us. We hailed the occu- pant, and I heard a well-known voice in answer : it was that of Colonel Lysons, an inmate of the same hospitable abode as that I occupied. Our united efforts at hist discovered the mansion. The snow-storm continued next day : the fall was so great that Lysons, who was bound to Quebec on duty connected with the Militia Bill, and started early, was compelled to return re infecta in the morning. To- wards the afternoon the storm ceased, and left a thick outer garment over the body of the country. The younger people of the house considered the occasion favourable for snow-balling, and I was included in some diffusive arrangements, very unfavourable to literary composition, for the spread of the white artillery, directed by willing hands and unrelenting aim at short range. I dined with the artillery mess — went after- wards to a ball given by H.M.^s ICth Regiment at the Donegana, which is the head-quarters of Seces- 156 CANADA. sioiidom — and finished the evening by a visit to the house of Mr. Judah, who gave a dance which was attended by Lord F. Paulet and a number of soldiers, and, above all, by a lovely American, who created a strong current in favour of the Union, of which she was a staunch advocate. As already hinted, I have lieard of complaints from officers of the Guards and other regiments that the Canadians during the period in question did not treat them with the hospitality for which they were once cele- brated. Of that point I am not well able to judge; but I must say, that during the whole period of my stay in Canada, I never was in any society in which I did not see British officers, and never knew of their having had reason to complain of neglect till lately. If there was any want of hospitable civility, 1 must think the officers were in some measure to blame for it : for among those stationed any length of time in Canada, or who knew the country in former years, I always heard unreserved praise of those Canadians who had the means of entertaining visitors. It must be remembered that there are few Canadians who are wealthy enough to give set dinners, and that the reserve which guards the family of the Frenchman existed in the times from which his descendants in Canada take their traditions and manners. Many people in Montreal, well inclined to show every attention in their power to the officers quartered among them, were deterred by the very prestige of the Guards' social position from ofi'ering them ordinary civility ; and l)y degrees in mfiny cases an estrangement grew up. I saw nothing to account for the discontent of officers who were quartered at Montreal, save and excel thevl frier groi< on MILITARY DISCONTENT. 157 . visit to the e which was r of soldiers, bo created a tf which she phiiiits from its that the lid not treat re once ccle- judge; but I f my stay in 211 1 did not having had [f there was V tlie officers unong those r wlio knew unreserved means of ibered that enough to guards tlie iraes from r traditions ell inclined the officers the very m offering nany cases except the fact that they were on foreign service, that they were not in England or London among their friends, and that they did not like the people, — all grounds which they might unfortunately allege against any other part of the world in which the British army is forced to serve. The subject is only important, in so far as it exercises an influence over the relations of the two countries ; a common expression of dislike on the part of men who exercise a great influence among the most powerful classes in this country must increase any tendency to regard with indifference the possession of the great territory which it is my belief we should seek to attach to the Crown by every possible legitimate means, Professor Goldwin Smith and the political economists of his school notwithstanding. After a stay of some days in Montreal, I received intellige-"ce which rendered it necessary for me to de- part at once for the United States, and I returned to New York by House's Point, t welling night r*ud day. I had seen enough of Canada to inspire me with a real regard for the people, and a sincere interest in the fortunes of such a magnificent dependency of the Crown, and I resolved, as far as in me lay, to attract the attention of the home country to a region which offers so many advantages to her children, and promises one day to be the seat of fioirishing communities, if not of a vast and independent empire. content of save and CHAPTER XL m Extent of Canada — The Lakes— Canadian Wealth— Early History- Jacques Cartier — English and French Colonists — Colonial and Acadian Troubles — La Salle— Border Conflicts — Early Expeditions — Invasions from New England — Louisburgh and Tioonderoga — The Colonial Insurrection — Partition of Canada — Progress of Upper Canada — France and Canada — The American Invasion — Winter Campaign — New Orleans and Platt.>-bvirg — Peace of Ghent — Political Controverhies — Winter Communication — Senti- ments of Hon. Joseph Howe — General View of Imperial and Colonial relations. A VICTORY won not a century ago gratified the animosities of the American colonies, and added to the countries ruled by the Sovereign of Great Britain a tract of territory thrice the size of his kingdom. From Labrador to the western limit of Lake Superior, a line drawn east and west within the boundaries of Canada, is 1600 miles long; but the breadth of the rountry from its Southern frontiers to the ill-defined boundary on the North, is but 225 miles. This vast region is divided into Upper and Lower Canada. The former lies between long. 40° and 49° N., and lat. 74° and 117° W. The latter lies between 45° and 50° North and 57" and 80° W. The three hundred and forty thousand square miles thus bounded present every variety of scenery and of soil. The climate is mainly influenced by the relations of the land to the enormous inland seas and great rivers \ liich occupy such a space in the map of British North America. From LLke Superior, which is larger than all Ireland, flows the mighty stream which feeds Lake Huron by the River St. Marv. Huron arly History — —Colonial and rly Expeditions Tioouderoga — i — Progress of can Invasion — rg — Peace of liciition — Senti- Imperial and ratified the d added to at Britain a dom. From erior, a line of Canada, e rountry boundary st region is lie former 4" and 117° th and 57" thousand variety of influenced nland seus n the map ior, which ty stream V. Huron THE LAKES. 159 is nearly 250 miles long and 221 miles broad. From Lake Huron the river and lake of St. Clair lead the flood into Lake Eri*; which is 280 miles long and 63 miles broad. From Lako Erie the current runs with quickening pace, till it rushes in ceaseless flight into the fathomless depths of Niagara, and whirls on- ward to melt into the waters of Lake Ontario. The last and smallest of these seas, Ontario, is 180 miles long and 50 miles broad. The St. Lawrence, winding through many islands, emerges from its eastern extremity and commences its uninterrupted career of 700 miles to the Atlantic. The land of this northern continent in fact reverses the part of Ocean, and enfolds sea after sea within its arms. 'The water blesses the laud for its protection ; it yields an easy way to the progress of civilisation ; transports the produce of the settler's labour to distant markets, and lays open to his enterprise the wide-sprea iing forests and plains which, but for them, would still be the heritage of the Indian and of his prey. Among the greatest proofs of entt;r- prise in the world are the canals by which the people living on the shores of the lakes have re idered naviga- tion practicable from the sea to Lake Superior. The display of the natural and artificial products of the far- reac'v'ng lands watered by the giant St. Lawrence at the Great Exhibition of 1862, came to the eyes of most of us with a sort of shock. It was surprising indeed to behold such evidences of wealth given by a dependency which was associated in the popular mind with frost and snow, with Niagara, Labrador, and French insur- rection — Moose, moccasins, and Indians. There we saw an exuberance and excellence of growth in timber and in cereals — in all kinds of agricultural produce, com- IGO CANADA. billed with prodigious mineral nches. Sir William Logan, assi ted by the zealous, skilfil, and indefatigable stafl' of Canadian geologists, showed what a future Canada may expect when capital and population com- bine to disinter the treasures which now lie hid within its rocky ribs. Ac arding to Jesuit Hennepin, the name of Canada furnishes a proof of an ignorance and deficient ap- preciation of the true value of the country that still mark the workings of the European mind in refer- ence to the resources of Canada. According to him, the W3rd Canada was derived from a corruption of the Spaniiih words Capo da Nada, or Cape of Nothing, which they gave to the scene of their early discoveries when, under a conviction of its utter barrenness and in- utility, they were about abandoning h in disgust. The derivation may be well doubted, but the implication may be true enough. The mainspring of Spanish, and indeed of all European enterprise in tht)sc days, was the hope of gold, and although there is reason to know that the pre- cious metal is associated with others scarcely less valu- able in Canada, of course it was not found lying in heaps and blocks on the sea-shore, and therefore the Spaniards concluded iLi * -d did not exist. It has been conjectured, with greater appearance of probability, that Canada is a modification of the Spanish word signifying "a passage;" because the Spaniards thought they could find a passage to India through Canada ; as others, with greater reason, believe there may yet be found a permanent practicable way to the shores of the Pacific through its wide expanse of lake and moun- tain. The accounts of the first discovery of Canada, meagre as til likell Althj the newll estalJ Carti estab Cabo Carti JACQUES CARTIEU. 161 as they are, possess a romantic interest whicli is never likely to assume any very precise or substantial form. Although Cabot, who discovered Labrador and Hudson's Bay, was the first person who suggested or projected the establishment of colonies or settlements in these newly-found regions, and English merchants actually established some small colonies there, it is to Jacques Cartier, of St. Malo, that the credit of the first real establishment of Europeans in Canada must be assigned. Cabot discovered the Gulf of St. Lawrence : it was Cartier who found tiiat the Gulf was but the mouth of a vast river; and who urged his little craft among its unknown dangers till he came to the site of Quebec. It was no ordinary man who, having accomplished thus much, pressed onwards till he reached Hochelaga, the site of Montreal. He was impelled by the love of gold and precious stones, and believed that here he had found them, but they were indeed only Lagenian mines. Cartier, and many another gallant saiior, found glitter- ing mica and crystals on the shores of their new found lands, which in theii innocent faith they believed to be gold and diamonds, and so filled ship and were off to sea again. The failure of these earlv adventures en .i' Canada into disfavour with those who led tlio enter- prise of the East. Whilst the English merchants and navigators were, with uncertain steps, seeking some solid resting-place on the easiern shores of America below the St. Lawrence, Canada was left in the pos- session of the Indians — not a peaceable possession, because the great Tribes were as irreclaimably belli- gerent as the Highland Clans or the Irish Septs. It is curious to reflect on the fact, indeed, that little more than two hundred years ago the vviiole of the vast 102 CANADA. region between ]\rassachusetts and Hudson's Bay was in the hands of the lied Man. But he was then yielding ground rapidly before the imperious strangers who had seized his shore farther south. The mer- chants of Bristol and of London turned their attention to Virginia before the French of St. Malo had well established themselves on the shores of the St. Law- rence. Both English and French alike were encou- raged and stimulated in these early efforts by the Crown. About the time that James the First was granting charters and framing corporations for colonies in Virginia, Champlain was establishing French settle- ments at Tadousac and Quebec, in Nouvelle France. The early dealings of English and French with the natives are discreditable to both nations; both fomented or availed themselves of dissensions among the Tribes, and when hostilities broke out, threw their weight on one side or the other. Whilst the New England Puritans were encouraging themselves in the work of destroying the Red Man by quoting passages from the Old Testament, which clearly showed how they the chosen people of God were called upon to slay the Caaaanite, Champlain, with his Roman Catholic priests, was quite as busy in rooting out Iroquois in the name of Heaven and of the Church. Of the two invading races, indeed, the French were the least exclusive, for thev neither burned nor banished Dissenters. So great was the liberality of France in those days, that Pro- testant and Roman Catholic emigrants shared in the same enterprise, and abode in the same settlements. But the Brethren of New Plymouth took a very limited view of Christian fraternisation, and at the very outset the colonists of the Northern and of the Southern >^^^-^. 's Bay was was then >s strangers The mer- ir attention had well le St. Law- ere encou- rts by the First was for colonies ench settle- lie France. 1 with the h fomented the Tribes, ^eir weight w England le work of 38 from the they the slav the ic priests, the name invading elusive, for So great that Pro- •ed in the ttleraents. ry limited erv outset Southern COLONIAL AND ACADIAN TllOUBLES. IC.'i States were animated by principles so opposed that even in the grub state they bit and stung each other. English and French colonists were alike under- going the spasmodic influences of the jealousy and intrigue which usually preside over the birthplace of colonies, when the operations of the war which broke out between France and England in 1628, were ex- tended to those distant regions. The growing power of England at sea enabled her to strike a tremendous blow at New Frruce. Champlain, with all his garri- son, was starved into capitulation by Sir David Kirke ; but on the restoration of peace and of the colony to France, in 1633, he returned to Canada, where he died two years afterwards. Champlain, with all his faults, was undoubtedly a man noteworthy, politic, and valuable in his time and generation, and his name will ever be associated with the early history of the con- tinent. Priests and nuns and missionaries after his death swooped down on the Indians, who began to hate each other worse than ever they had done before, Avhilst at the same time thev learned to entertain a savage dislike for the race which they had welcomed to their shores so courteously and gently. Thou- sands of Indians were indeed converted, as it was called, to Christianity ; but it was only that they might rage with greater cruelty and fierceness against their brethren. Massacres of Christians and of con- verts by furious savages fanned these unholy flames. Little is left of either the Indians or of tiiciir Christianity now. A common animosity to the aborigines brought about the first " rapprochement " between the French and British colonists. The New English and the New French first met in America to consider the pro- JI 2 1G4 CANADA. priety of an alliance against their Indian cucmieSy wliieli should not be broken by war between the parent countries, but the status of the two offshoots of the great European rivals was very different. The French in Canada at one time displayed a wonderful amount of enterprise, energy, and perseverance in their dealings with the savages, whieli can only be appreciated by those who have studied their early records, but it contrasts strongly with the quiescence and politicnl folly of their descendants. Their early explorations were characterised by a spirit worthy of the countrymen of Cartier. Among these, the voyage of La Salle from Niagara deserves to be mentioned, as indicative of the highest qualities of a traveller. In a little craft of some sixty tons, he ascended the rapid river above the Falls of Niagara, amidst difficulties which we can but little understand, and gained the broad expanse of Lake Erie; thence boldly steering westward, he came upon the narrow river or strait of Detroit, crossed the lucid Avaters of Lake St. Clair, and was at last rewarded by the grand discovery of Lake Huron. Still boldly pursuing his course westward, La Salle at last came to Lake Michigan, whence in company with Father Hennepin, his Jesuit historian, he undertook the feat of penetrating to the head waters of the Mississippi. Nor did he stop when he reached the mysfic stream ; he trusted himself to the mighty flood, and never turned round or bated breath till he floated out, 2000 miles below, on the turbid waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Whilst the hierarchy of France were busy found- ing bishoprics, building churches, and establishing seminaries, the English, distracted by internal con- vulsions, left their American colonies pretty much to L enemies, the parent lots of the L'he French amount of ir dealings ed by those it contrasts »lly of tlieir laracterised of Cartier. m Niagara tlie highest some sixty le Falls of but little je of Lake i3arae upon the lucid rewarded till boldlv st came to h Father the feat of ippi. Nor ;ream ; he vcr turned iUOO miles f Mexico. sy found- stablishing ;rnal con- ' much to LA SALLK. 1G5 themselves. France sent out governors, councillors, and bishops to New France; England dispatched her Puritans, adventurers, younger sons. Catholic cavaliers, and Nonconformists ; but the natives were sure to suffer, no matter in what form the colony was ruled, or of what Europeans it was composed. Terrible diseases, although known in Europe for two hundred years pre- viously, according to contemporary writers, appeared suddenly, and without European communication, among the indigenes, and ravaged the miserable tribes, already decimated by intestine war and ruin. Christians were naturally held accountabl*' for all the evil; and for a large part indeed they were. Whilst James the Second was making a last stand for his Crown against the victorious Dutchman, La Salle, with a patent of Governor, was sailing from La Rochelle, for the dependency of Louisiana, which now completed the vast semicircle over which the King of France claimed authority, and which enclosing the British settlements in a belt from Newfoundland through the lakes, swept thence by the Ohio down to the Gulf of Mexico, far away to the terra incognita under the set- ting sun. The superior trading resources of the Indians of the South, the favourable conditions for the expan- sion of trade possessed by the British on the Hudson over the French, who had to struggle with longer frost, and the wintry storms of the St. Lawrence, and the greater •commercial enterprise of the English colonists, nullified that vast territorial superiority. The French governors thought, ])y displays of vigour and violence towards the natives, to alter the course of trade ; but they could not <;ompete with their neighbours, and quarrels and petty wars vexed the life of botli colonial systems. In 1C90, IGG CANADA. M. (le Frontenac launched tliree little corps of invuding savages, aided and led by French troops, against the Bri- tish settlements in the New England Colonics. Schenec- tady in New York, Salmon Falls in New liam})shire, Casco in Maine, were surprised and burned, and the colonists were given to the sword and the scalping- knife. For a time the survivors of the n\'\s8acrc had something else to do besides persecuting each other to death for witchcraft or torturing their heretics. They set to work to avenge their slaughtered saints. Sir William Phipps, a native of Massachusetts, led his Puritan hosts to Port Royal in Nova Scotia, but was obliged to retreat ingloriously from an :ittenii)t against Montreal. Ilis rival, Do Frontenac, had no better fortune in a projected attack by land and sea against New York. The war which raged between the colo- nists was terminated by the Peace of llyswick ; but peace did not last long, and the declaration of war by Great Britain against France and Spain re\ived the bloody contests between the borderers. The British Government sent out Marlborough's veterans, and those sailors who had swept the seas of every enemy, to aid the colonists. An immense expedition, which seemed capable of destroying any trrce of French rule in Canada, sailed from Boston in 1710, ugainst Quebec, but failed miserably at sea and in the St. Lawrence ere it readied the city. The Peace of Utrecht, in 17 13, brou^lit about a cessation of hostilities, but not of jealousies, or of Indian wars and massacres. By that time the pre- dominance of the white man was well estabhshed, and the faces of the Indians were turned steadily towards the setting sun, and their footsteps followed his course towards the forests of the west. Fort after fort en- LOUISBUliOII, (JAl'L BRETON. 1G7 of invading tist the ]}ri- . Schcnec- lliira})8hire, d, and the 5 scalping- 'ssacrc had jli other to ics. Tliey aiiits. Sir ts, led his i, but was ipt against 110 better jca against the colo- uiek ; but of war by .nived tlie e British and those ny, to aid h seemed n Canada, but failed it reached gilt about sies, or of the pre- shed, and ^ towards is course fort en- croached on their decreasing domain, and Englishman and Frenchman, each after his kind, sought to repro- duce in the New World those features of the mother country which he loved or admired or respected most. In the period which elapsed between the Treaty of Utrecht and the declaration of war in 1745, both the Colonies and Canada i)rospered, but the increase of the former was to that of the latter as the increase of grain compared with that of moss. The people of Massachu- setts, led by their colonial chief, Pepperell, with contin- gents from Rhode Island, Vermont, and Connecti* ut, were joined by the British fleet under Warren, and s< t out on their darling project of reducing Louisburg, the great French arsenal and station at Cape Breton. On the 17th of August, 1746, after a siege of two months, the place surrendered with all its stores to the victorious Colo- nists. It was with dilficultv that France could commu- iiieate with her menaced dependency, for the sea was nearly controlled by the British fleets, but her pride was aroustd, and great armaments were prepared and dis- patched to Canada. Affiavit Deus et hostes dissipantur. Two expeditions were nigh lost altogether on the waves. A third was destroyed by the fleet under Warren and Anson. The Peace of Rochclle put an end to the passionate efforts of France to retrieve her disasters, but the rivalries and excesses of the British and French fur-traders continued the strife between the Colonies and New France. The latter claiming the whole course of the Ohio, as ^'^ appears with some reason, forbade our traders to resort there. Forts were built to enable the French to exercise their jurisdiction and authority on ground which was regarded by the British Colonists as their own, and it is a remarkable fact, that Georgr ■.%, ,.>^, ^-"^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 145 m m IB I US I u •i i. ■Utato 2.0 110 1.8 ; 1.25 1.4 m < 6" — ► % ^ /2 7 a Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^^^ ^f^ <^ ^ ^V^ '*.■ "S %i ^ I- * I .-J 1G8 CANADA. Washington's first military service was in command of an expedition of Virginians to capture the works erected hv the French, and that he was 'compelled to lay down his arms by De Villiers, after a brief and inglorious — not to say very badly-managed campaign. Although Great Britain made considerable efforts to aid the colonists in their wars, she could not verv well continue to do so when she was at peace with France, if her distant subjects chose to carry on hostilities on their own account. The King's Government gave advice to the Colonies to unite for self-defence, which led in 1754 to the assemblage of a convention at Albany, at which Massachusetts, Khode Island, New Hamp- shire, Connecticut, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and New York were represented. The delegates drew up a plan for what was in effect a Federal Union, but the plan fell to the ground. The Home Government refused to adopt it, because of certain encroachments which it contained on the prerogatives of the Crown ; and the colonial assemblies, which had already exhibited a sturdy self-reliance and independence worthy of atten- tion at home, were equally dissatisfied with the pro- posal. But the seed had been sown — the idea of Federal Union, of self-taxation, of levying troops and regulating trade, was busy in men^s minds. In the same year the Colonists were preparing for their great attack on Canada — an attack which was made, not because France was the enemy of England, but because Frenchmen in Canada were rivals of the American colonists. The lines of invasion of French Canada marked out by the American subjects of the British Crown, were very much the same as those of the American rebels agail war (I sing) Croj stat^ BORDER CONFLICTS. 1G9 command of the works iompelled to a brief and i campaign. J efforts to ot very well itli France, ostilities on iment gave 3 nee, which I at Albany, e\v Hamp- , and New V up a plan ut the plan refused to which it j and the diibited a 7 of atten- the pro- idea of Toops and In the ;heir great nade, not it because American arked out 3wn, were an rebels against the Crown, when some twenty odd years after- wards they prepared to invade British Canada. It is singular that tho men who, under the authority of the Crown of England, or using at least the pretext of a state of war between the home countries, waged war against the subjects of France in Canada, should have been foremost in the rebellion against England, and that, in the invasion of Canada, which was one of their first undertakings in pursuance of their rebellion, they should have found neither sympathy nor aid amongst the French Canadians, whose allegiance had been so recently transferred to the King of Eng- land. More singular still is it that France, which had received so many tremendous blows from these very colonists, and which suffered so much in her efforts to defend her Canadian dependencies from these in- veterate assailants, should have been mainly instru- mental in establishing their independence, and in lead- ing their great revolution to a successful issue. The condition of the Scottish borders in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries furnishes but a very poor parallel to the state of the debateable land which spread from the banks of the Ohio, by the great lakes, down to the Atlantic. Constant aggressions took place from one side or the other by trading parties, bands of Indians, or by armed parties with larger purposes of occupation or vengeance. Whilst the English colonies were enjoying the full fruit of the principles on which they had been founded, Canada, regarded as a mere dependency of the French Crown, vexed with the com- plicated and inconsistent form of government, was daily losing ground. The ill-paid governors were cor- rupt, or at all events exacting : the Intendants ground l.v ■ 170 CANADA. the province to powder to make tlie most of their office, and beneath each of these officers was an army of eccle- siastics, bent on appropriating, for that incarnation of the Church which appeared in their proper persons, the best of the land and the great tithes of all trade and commerce. Of the many encounters which took place on the borders, there are few authentic records: it is sufficient to know that neither the French nor the English suc- ceeded at the period in effecting a permanent lodgment within the frontiers of the enemy. The Governors of Canada commemorated their victory, " Rebellibus Nova Anglioe Incolis" on medals and brasses, and Great Britain rewarded by various honours the colonial generals and governors who were supposed to have attained advantages over their Canadian neighbours. In 1756 war was again declared by Great Britain against France. Montcalm, availing himself of the utter imbecility of Lord Loudon, who commanded the British troops, speedily fell upon the important post of Oswego, on Lake Ontario, and captured it Avith its garrison, guns, flotilla, and stores. He followed up that great success in the following year, by the capture of Fort Edward, which surrendered, with its garrison of 8000 men under Monroe, who were massacred bv the Indian auxiliaries. The officers who were sent from England to command the troops, and their continer^'al allies at this period, must have inspired the American continentals with a feeling of profound contempt : but Lord Chatham, perceiving that the Colonists must be the mainstay of military operations, aroused the various New England settlements, by spirited despatches and promises of help, to make strenuous eftbrts against the enemy. Once more a British fleet under Admiral LUUISBUROH AND TICONDEROGA. 171 of their office, Lrmy of eccle- b incarnation oper persons, all trade and took place on it is sufficient English suc- nt lodgment Governors of )ellibus NovcB . and Great the colonial ►sed to have neighbours, reat Britain tiself of the imanded the rtant post of it Avith its followed up the capture its garrison assacred bv re sent from continer^al e American tempt: but its must be the various )atches and against the ir Admiral Boscawen appeared upon the scene, and a force of 14,000 men, under Lord Amherst, was covered by its guns in the operations which led to the surrender of Louisburgh on the 26th of July, 1756. This success was tarnished by the defeat of a powerful army under Abercrombie, in an ill-judged assault against Ticonde- roga, where 16,000 men were beaten back by the French garrison, which numbered only .*3000 ; but Kingston, on Lake Ontario, surrendered to the British- American troops, and Fort du Quesne — in the advance against which Braddock lost his life in the former war — was abandoned without a blow by its French garrison, who would be somewhat astounded, if, revisiting the glimpses of the moon, they could gaze upon the Pitts- burgh of the present day on the site of their ancient post. In July, 1759, three great expeditions were directed against Canada. The Ministry resolved at any cost to trample under foot every trace of French dominion on the American continent, and in that resolution they were mainly sustained by the passion and animosity of the New England colonists. A powerful corps under ijord Amberst was directed against Ticonderoga. Another corps, under Sir William Johnson, mainly composed of continentals and Indians, advanced against Fort Niagara, whilst an army commanded by General Wolfe, covered by the fleet, made an attack from the St. Lawrence against Quebec. Ticonderoga and Crown Point were aban- doned by the French, and Fort Niagara was taken after an engagement with the enemy. How Wolfe fared all the world knows : an elaborate account of the great victory which gave Canada to the Crown would be out of place in this volume, but elsewhere I have made a 11 «! r .: 172 CANADA. few remarks concerning tlie events of that memorable battle. On the l8th of September the British standard floated from the citadel of Quebec. Ever since that time the country, handed over four years afterwards by the Treaty of Paris to the British, has remained under the protection of England, acquiring year by year a greater measure of freedom and self-government, till, at this moment, it may be considered as attached to the Empire solely by what Mr. O'Connell called "the golden link of the Crown." The whole population of the country then ceded was under 70,000. The population of the British colonies in America was at least twenty times as numerous. The American Colonists were at last gratified by a conquest which relieved them from a dangerous neighbour, who was backed by the power of France, and which opened to their enterprise not only the lakes and rivers of Canada, but Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, the St. Lawrence, and all the valuable fisheries of the sea-board. It was un- fortunate that no attempt was made to define the exact boundary line between the Colonies and the new terri- tory, although the Proclamation of 17G3 no doubt was supposed at the time to be sufficiently accurate ; but we shall see hereafter that the neglect proved very damaging to the interests of Canada. The Americans, perhaps, would have resented any attempt to define very nicely the frontier between the new conquest of England and the territories of the colonists who had contributed to some extent in effecting it ; and there were not many who foresaw the rupture which divided the mother-country and her dependencies for €ver. For fifteen years Canada, content with the preser- vati( of re fectll from morj her the Freil THE COLONIAL INSUIlltECTlON. 173 bat memorable ritisli standard vcr since that afterwards by mained under 3ar by year a nment, till, at ttached to the called ''the le population fO,000. The ti erica was at le American nquest which )ur, who was Jh opened to rs of Canada, awrence, and It was un- ne the exact le new terri- 10 doubt was curate; but proved very Americans, ; to define conquest of Its who had and there fcure which dencies for the preser- vation of her ecclesiastical establishments, of freedom of religion, and of the " Custom of Paris," seemed per- fectly indifferent to the transfer of her allegiance from one king to another, the change, perhaps, being more in the language of her rulers, and the blazon of her standard, than in the mode of government. In fact the British military governors were singularly like the ^French military governors ; but it was felt at home, as soon as the difficulties with the colonics began, that Canada could not continue to be like a mere military division of a conquered country. In 1771', the Quebec Act was passed, which created a council to aid in the administration of the province, guaranteed the freedom of the Roman Catholic Church, and abrogjitcd the Royal Proclamation of 1763. In lieu of the administration of a military pro-consulate, there was established a settled government, with some show of a representative basis. The American colonists were then upon the verge of the great rebellion, and as a proof of the spirit in which they acted, it may be remarked that the Continental Congress made a most violent remonstrance against the toleration of Roman Catholicism in Canada, guaranteed by the Quebec Act. The very next year the rebellious colonists captured Ticonderoga and Crown Point, and Montreal; and had their enterprise against Quebec succeeded, Canada might have become included in the territory which eventually became portion of the United States. So bent were the colonists on in- cluding Canada in the scope of their great design, that in 1776, immediately after their unsuccessful invasion, Franklin, who was one of the main movers of Wolfe's expedition, and two gentlemen, were sent by Congress to offer the Canadians a free press and State \i.^ 171 CANADA. rights, and the free exercise of the faith which but two years before they had so l)itterly denounced the British Government for guaranteeing, if they would but join in the revolt against Great Britain. In the war which followed between the British and tlie American colonists, Canada was made the base of operations against the colonies, which generally terminated in disasters, such as that of Burgoyne, though, in pitched battles, the British were almost invariably victorious. The habitans took little or no part in the contest, but on the Declaration of Independence, a number of Royalists emigrated from the States and settled in the country, in very much the same way as the Southern Americans are now taking refuge in Canada from the perse- cution of their Northern neighbours. The wish to give, in their new country, these devoted men some equi- valent for that which they had lost, suggested a course which has been condemned by subsequent events. The ■ilome Government resolved upon the unfortunate step of dividing the province into Upper and Lower Canada, with a governor-in-chief in Lower, and a lieutenant- governor in Upper Canada, so that the Royalists might not be quite swamped by the French element. The governors selected were often men without par- ticular aptitude for administration, certainly destitute of the ability needed in dealing with the very peculiar state of society, trade, and interests prevailing in the provinces. . , Although the legislative council and assembly of Upper Canada had equal privileges with that of Lower Canada, the condition of the people was very different, principally owing to the paucity of population. Go- vernor Simcoe, to whom the care of Upper Canada was THE PARTITION OF CANADA. 175 t'hich but two 3d the Britisli )uld but join he war wliich can colonists, against the isasters, such battles, tlie The habitans but on the of Royalists the country, a Americans the perse- 'he wish to a some equi- fced a course vents. The 'tunate step ver Canada, lieutenant- Royalists :h element, thout par- y destitute ry peculiar Ing in the sembly of ; of Lower different, ion. Go- mada was first confided, ruled over a wilderness, in which a few clearings around the trading stations on the lakes and rivers, and some huts ^^athcred about the military posts, were the sole vestiges of the white man and civilisation. As the English colonists gained the upper hand in the constant strife which raged during the latter period of the French occupation, the habitans of the remoter settlements had gradually withdrawn towards Lower Canada, and had concentrated in the neighbourhood of the towns on the St. Lawrence, where they could find safety in case of danger, and transport should their friends be unable to protect them. It was not surprising that the whole French popu- lation flocked into the lower province; for under a foreign rule they gained confidence and ease by the contempla- tion of their numbers and the concentration of their masses. Although many American Royalists came into the lake country so abandoned, they were not equal in number to the population that fled. It required no small amount of courage and pciseverance in Governor Simcoe to conduct the affairs of his little government, from the site which his sagacity pointed out to him as the most favourable for the development of his pro- vince. The Red Man's wigwam scill clung to the border of the British posts, and the few intrepid men who ventured to fix their homes along the shore of the Upper St. Lawrence, found themselves amidst an uncongenial population of half-breeds and Indians, accustomed indeed to the chase, and to the rude barter which represented the only trade of those vast regions, but utterly averse to settled life and agricultural labour; obnoxious also to handicraft- men, mechanics, and the followers of the peaceful, regular pursuits which are 170 CANADA. the hanclrnaidciis of civilisation. Under these circum- stances the advance of Upper Canada, slow as it was for some years, is surprising, and the rapidity of her subsequent progress is certainly worthy of admiration. In 179'3 the revenue of Upper Canada was less than 1000/. a-year ; and although the machinery of carrying on government aiul law existed, it was but imper- fectly, if at all, worked. In theory the English law prevailed, and one cannot but admit, if we are to judge by its fruits, th.at it was far better calculated to pro- mote the security and prosperity of the country ; than the Custom of Paris, to which the French Cana- dians clung in virtue of the capitulation of Quebec. Even thus early the militia occupied the attention of the legislature, although they were obliged to do battle against the denizens of the forest, and to encourage the hunter by rewards for the destruction of bears and wolves. The regulation of trade between the provinces and the United States — the establishment of ports of entry — the adjustment of land titles, and other useful matters of the kind, were not neglected by the earliest Parliaments. Unhappily religious questions arose soon after the close of the last century in Lower Canada. The national feeling became associated with the ancient religion in opposition to the aims of the British Govern- ment and of the Protestant clergy. Whilst Dissenters and Presbyteriauci and other schismatics from the Church of England were allowed free scope in Upper Canada, the Government set itself to work to give to the Protestant Church in Lower Canada the prestige which belonged to the Catholic Church . The Canadians raised the cry — Nos institutions! notre lanyue! et noslois! When hostilities with America seemed imminent in FllANCE AND CANAi V. 177 licse circuni- )w as it was liditv of her admiration. [IS less than of carryinj^ but imper- English law are to judge ited to pro- e country ; Tuch Cana- of Quebec, attention of to do battle ) encourage )f bears and provinces of ports of her useful ;he earliest arose soon er Canada, he ancient h Govern- Dissenters from the in Upper give to e prestige Canadians etnoslois! minent in 1807, tlio militia nevertheless responded to the call with enthusiasm in Lower Canada, and Acts were passed in l^pper Canada for raising, training and billeting the force in case of need. Although the lan- guage for Avhich the Lower Canadians cried out was that of France Acadianised, the institutions and the laws in which they took pride belonged only to a France of the past. The Republic had placed between Canada and France a barrier which the priesthood declared to be impassable. What had they to do with the Goddess of Reason and a calendar without a saint ? What had a people steeped in feudalism, or the Custom of Paris, to do with the Code Napoleon ? Nevertheless the rulers of Canada suspected the habitans of treason, whilst the habitans suspected the rulers of designs upon their faith ; and so it was that want of confidence, one of the most formidable impediments to the good understanding between governor and governed which can exist, took root and grew apace. The second war with the United States was at hand. The animosity of the Americans of the Southern and Middle States against England was much augmented by the discovery of a project of the Canadian Secretary, Ryland, to detach the New England States from the Union, and to annex them to Canada. The bitter feelings which the old New England Colonists had entertained towards their French neighbours had been mitigated by the influence of a common language and the congenial religion and laws of the English rulers of Canada. Cer- tain it is that the New England delegates opposed the war which was declared against Great Britain by the Government of Washington by every means in their power, though they were by no means complimentary 17S CANADA. to Cnnndn, which tho}' supposed it to he one of the objects of the wsir i)arty in America to annex. On the dechiratioii of war in lsl2, the Canadians, with the exception of the in]ial)itant8 of one parish, tnrncd out witii tlie greatest alacrity, and in considerable force, to defend their countrv. (jcncral Hall, the American Governor of Michigan, seized upon Sandwich in July in tlie same year; but he was soon very glad to cross over to Detroit again, where he very ingloriously capi- tulated soon afterwards to General Brock, with 2500 men and 33 pieces of cannon, thus surrendering the whole State of Michigan to Great Britain. The Americans, elated by their naval successes how- ever, resolved to conquer Canada, although Massachu- setts, Connecticut, and New York opposed the war with so much determination, that it seemed very probable the Union would be broken up by the persistence of the Southern statesmen in their policy. A corps under Colonel Van Bensellaer attacked the British and the Colonists under Brock at Queenstown, near Niagara, and although that gallant, intrepid, and able officer fell at the head of the 4'9th regiment, the British, aided by Canadians and Indians, captured or slew nearly the whole of the American invading force, U"4ier the eyes of a large number of American militia, at the other side of the river, who refused to cross to the aid of their countrymen. The Americans demanded an armistice, which was most injudiciously granted by General Sheaffe. The American General Dearborn, meantime, with a force varying, it is said, from 8000 to 10,000 men, invaded Lower Canada, but after some unsuccessful skirmishes retreated to Plattsburg. A few days afterwards the American General Smith made THE AMKUICAN IXVASIOX. 179 ; oucj of tlic lex. On the IS, with the , turned out iible force, to le American vich in July ghi(i to cross jriously capi- k, witli 2500 endcring the icccsses how- h Massachu- the war with ery probable ersistence of . corps under tisli and the ear Niagara, e officer fell h, aided by nearly the er the eyes it the other the aid of Handed an granted by Dearborn, from 8000 after some ;sburg. A mith made an attack on Fort Erie, which was characterised by ])usillaninnty, and ended in disj^racoful failure. When the campaign opened in January, IsL'i, it was not auspicious for the invading Americans, (reneral Win- chester's force was defeated by Colonel I'roctor, near Frenchtown ; Ogdensburg was taken ; but the Ameri- cans, nevertheless, continued tlie war with characteristic perseverance and foresight, and set to work to use the water communications which we liad neglected, and thus gained an assured advantage. General Sheaffe was driven out of Toronto by an expedition which landed under the guns of a newly-created American lake fleet, commanded by an experienced and brave sailor. Commodore Chancey. The capture of Fort George followed; but an attempt to overrun Lower Canada ended in utter defeat, I'revost, however, being beaten back in an attack upon Saekett's Harbour, and Proctor being repulsed in an assault on Sanduskey, so as to moderate anv undue exultation on the side of the British on account of their success. This war excited little attention in England, where men thought only of their great naval victories, in which their ships captured, sunk, or dispersed whole fleets of the enemy, or of the grand operations in Spain, where Wellington was worsting in succession the best generals of the Empire. All the strength of the United States was put forth in their war against Canjida, and it is only astonishing that the Americans did so little with the means at their disposal. In July a British expedition, covered by two sloops of war, tlcstroyed stores, barracks, and property at Plattsburg, Burlington, and Svvanton, Avhilst the Americans burned the British stores at York. It must be remembered that the Americans N 2 t 180 CANADA. '•- 'Jvdft w had every facility in tlie command of the lakes, and in the command of the waters. The connection between Lower and Upper Canada was carried on by rapid and dangerous rivers, and by lakes which were constantly patrolled by the Americans, the roads being simply tracks through a forest, or causeways of a most rudiment?, vy character. For some time both sides contended for the supremacy of the Lakes. On the 31st of July the British, under Sir J. Yeo, captured two of Commodore Chancey^s squadron, which was further reduced by the loss of two gun-boats, which capsized in trying to escape from the victorious English. But Chancey repaired damages in Sackett's Harbour, and on the 28th of September attacked the British flotilla^ which eventually retreated under the guns of Burlington Heights. For the time,- therefore, the Americans were masters of Lake Ontario, and they used their advantages in capturing British stores and reinforcements. On the 10th of September the British lost the command of Lake Erie also. An American squadron of nine vessels under Perry, far superior in size, number of men, and in calibre ^.f guns, defeated a British sauadron of six vessels under Barclay. Tiie result of this defeat was that the British under Proctor had to evacuate Detroit and Amherstburg, and fall back to open communication with their base of supplies. On the river Thames the pursuit became so severe, that Proctor turned to bav, but he was overwhelmed by the Americaiis under Harrison, who numbered 3500, whilst the British did not exceed a third of that strength. Michigan was lost to us, and the only port retained by the British west of Burlington was Michil- imacinac, which they had taken early in the war. THE WINTER CAMPAIGN. 181 the lakes, e connection irried on bv which were the roads aseways of a ! time both Lakes. On eo, captured whicli was Doats, which 3 victorious in Sackett^s attacked the 1 under the e, therefore, |io, and they stores and the British n American superior in IS, defeated relay. TJie der Proctor lid fall back of suppHes. so severe, rerwhelmed numbered lird of that e only port vas Michil- the war. Nothing less than the conquest of Lower Canada would now satisfy the Americans. A force of 12,000 men was assembled to operate against Montreal. O the 20th of September, Colonel de Salaberry, a Canadian in command of a post of militia, and a few Indians, checked the advance of the enemv, and fell back to Chateaugay, where in a most creditable and gallant action he defeated an American column under Hampton, which was intended to co-operate with an expedition down the St. Lawrence, against Montreal. Another portion of the force was defeated at Chrystler's Farm, with some loss, by a body of British regulars, Canadian militia, and Indians. The attack on Montreal was pre- cipitately abandoned, and the Canadians, who had done so well, were sent back to their homes. But winter did not put an end to the war. The British determined to drive the enemy out of Canada, and the Americans re- tired before them. On the 10th of December the enemy abandoned and burned the town of Newark. On the 18th of December the British surprised Fort Niagara with all its garrison, and gave Lewiston and Man- chester to the flames. Buffalo and Black Hock were captured and destroyed by the British under lliall, and the whole country-side was laid Avaste in retaliation for the burning of Newark. Sir George Prevost was able to meet the Canadian Parliament with pride, and to congratulate it on the conduct of the provincial militia in the field, and the loyalty of the people. Before the coming of spring had loosed the lakes and rivers, the Americans returned to the attack on Canada, and in March, 1814, Macomb crossed Lake Champlain; but a part of his force was repulsed in an attack on LacoUe, and he retired to Plattsburg. In ]May, Sir J. Yeo 182 CANADA. fitted out an expedition from Kingston, which sailed on the 4th of May, captured Oswego, and destroyed some military stores, but did not succeed in a similar attempt against Sackett's Harbour. On the 3rd of July a strong force of Americans landed near Chip- pewa, and defeated a body of British, Canadians, and Indians, of inferior numbers, under Riall. A very bloody and determined contest ensued on the 25th, near the same place, in which the Americans made repeated efforts to break the British, but were repulsed, and finally retired to their camp, whence they retreated towards Fort Erie, destroying their baggage and stores. The British followed, and were beaten in a desperate attack to storm the fort. Whilst these small yet sanguinary actions were breaking out sporadi- cally along the Canadian frontier, the Government at home made use of a part of the forces liberated by the peace with France, and resolved on giving the Ame- ricans a little diversion from their pursuit of glory and conquest in Canada. A British force under Ross defeated the American army at the Races of Bladens- burg, captured Washington, and destroyed public buildings and property of all kinus. A demonstration against Baltimore did not succeed because the fleet could not co-operate, although the British troops routed the American covering army with the utmost ease, and at New Orleans our troops endured a humiliating re- pulse. The war aid not languish in Canada. The British took Prairie du Chien in the west, and seized on all the country between the river Penobscot and New Brunswick. The most important part of the State of Maine thus fell into British possession, and a provisional government was established over it till the end ol State! flotill-J and at tli(| Macoj The THE PI- ACE OF GHENT. 1S3 ch sailed on :royed some I a similar the 3rd of near Chip- Canadians, Riall. A led on the Americans , but were hence thev 4' jir baggage e beaten in hilst these lut sporadi- Jrnment at ted by the the Ame- glory and tider Ross Bladens- ed public onstration the fleet )ps routed ease, and iating re- he British ed on all and New ;he State , and a t till the end of the war, when ]\Iaine was restored to the United States, To compensate for these successes, the British flotilla was beaten by the Americans under McDonough, and Sir Georcre Prevost sustained a discreditable defeat at the hands of a very inferior force under General Macomb, on the 8th of September, at Plattsburgh. The Americans, however, abandoned Fort Erie on the 5th of November, which was the last vestige of their great plans for the conquest of Canada. The Peace of Ghent put an end to a contest in which the United States would have soon found itself opposed to the whole power of Great Britain. The conditions of that Treaty were disastrous for Canada, as they shut her out from any seaport for several months of the year. In fact. Admiral Gambler, Mr. Goulburn, and Mr. Adams, knew nothing at all about their business, and exercised neither diligence, research, nor caution, in examining the stipulations of the treaty. They accepted all the American conditions and statements without inquiry or hesitation. They never bestowed a thought on the efi^ect of such observations as "the high lands lying- due north from the source of the river St. Croix, and ti^e head of the Connecticut riv^r not having been ascertained ;" " part of the boundary between the two powers not having been surveyed," and the like, which many years after became essential and powerful arguments in the discussion. In the war the Canadians had displayed courage and spirit, and the best American generals and statesmen were very speedily satisfied that they could effect very little in the way of conquest. They were but too glad to make peace. The war had not only damaged their resources, but threatened the very existence of the 184 CANADA. Wi. Union. The northern delegates at the Hartford Con- vention had not merely objected to the proceedings of the Federal Government, but had entered upon the discussion of fundamental changes in. the consti- tution. In the Treaty of Ghent no concession was made on any of the points on which tlie declaration of war was made. In some respects the contest with tlie United States proved of decided benefit to Canada,; the money spent by the army enriched tjie country, and the incidents of the campaign tended to raise the reputation of the Canadians in England, and elevated the sentiment of self-respect among the people. Roads w^ere made or projected for military purposes. Canals were discussed and planned, and steam began to contend with currents and rapids. The revenue exceeded the expenditure, although nearly 27,000/. figured as an item for militia services the first year after the vvar. Had it not been for political and civil complica- tions, the progress of Canada would have been still more rapid ; but truth to say, progress encountered a considerable obstacle in the character of the people of Lower Canada. Probably not less than 35,000 of the whole population were of French descent, strongly attached to their institutions, and therefore indisposed to change — influenced by traditions of a most conser- vative character, and by territorial arrangements which perpetuated the very essence of feudalism. Neverthe- less, emigration was encouraged, free passages were given to some immigrants, food to others, one hundred acres of land to all. Banks were established; but through all the extent of the upper province in 1817, there were not quite seven persons to the square mile. In some POLITICAL CONTROVERSIES. 1S5 rtford Con- )ceedings of d upon the the consti- :ession was declaration ontest with to Canada; le country, I to raise land, and the people. purposes. !am began 3 revenue ' 27,000/. first year eoraplica- been still >untered a le people 35,000 of , stronorlv Qdisposed 5t conser- its which ■iTeverthe- ?es were hundred through ere were In some instances injudicious governors exercised their power to counteract the good disposition of the House of Parlia- ment, and occasionally Parliament marred the excellent intentions of the representatives of the Crown. Im- peachment of judges, imprisonment of journalists, ques- tions of privilege and the like arose, which interrupted the good feeling so necessary to the progress of colonial life. Constant fears of sedition, privy conspiracy, and rebellion, haunted the minds of governors, whilst the colonists and the habitans struggled for greater freedom of action. Although the Canadians had resisted the Americans with the greatest energy, they were sus- pected of a desire to coalesce with, or to imitate the institutions of, the enemy. England at this time was agitated by aspirations for reform, and those who led the masses certainly justified the suspicion with which their designs were regarded, by intemperance of lan- guage. Among the emigrants who flocked to Canada were men who were tinged deeply with the dye of dan- gerous democratic doctrine, and notwithstanding the great gulf fixed between the new comers and the French habitans, it was feared that the two parties Avould unite in founding a government which could not be congenial to one or the other. When Lord Dal- housie came out in 1820, he found however a tolerably prosperous community. The dissensions respecting the civil list which had occurred for several years previously, inaugurated Lord Dalhousie's administration. The Assembly would not grant a permanent civil list, and took the extraordinary step of appointing an agent, who was a member of the British Parliament, to repre- sent them in England. The impolicy of dividing the country into two provinces became more apparent as 18G CANADA. questions connected with revenue arose, and the dis- cussion of these questions was embittered by deficient harvests and commercial distress. Now it was seen how injuriously the want of a port open all the year aflfected the interests of Canada, which for five or six months was denied all access to the se^i, unless through the United States. The union of ^he two provinces was agitated, but the French population did not support the project. Tliey b lieved they would lose by amalgamation; that they would forfeit their privi- leges, and be deprived of the advantages they enjoyed in the free import of American produce. When it became known that the Government really had a pro- ject for the union of the provinces, Mr. Papineau, the Speaker of the Assembly, was dispatched to Eng- land with a petition against the proposed amalgama- tion, and it was deferred for a time. Financial diffi- culties increased the ill-temper of the governed, and the harshness and resolution of the Government widened the breach between them. Squabbles and ill-blood sprang up with greater vehemence and animosity every day, and the seeds of the evil which came to maturity in 1837, if not then first planted, were certainly in- vigorated. The energies of the English, Scotch, and Irish emigrants who flocked into the north were not to be repressed by these malign influences. The citizens of the old world pushed their way into Upper Canada, and finding lakes and rivers unfit for naviga- tion, projected and carried out canals, and already grasped the probability of landing cargoes of Canadian wheat in Liverpool, from vessels loaded at Kingston and Montreal. The Imperial negotiators who renounced all the NEGLECT OF CANADIAN INTERESTS. 187 and the dis- by deficient it was seen all the year f five or six less thvongh 'o provinces »p did not would lose their privi- hey enjoyed . When it had a pro- Papinean, ed to Eng- amalgama- ancial diffi- ed, and the it widened ill-blood osity every 3 maturity rtainly in- Jotch, and were not ces. The ito Upper 3r naviga- 1 already Canadian Kingston I all the claims which they miglit have preferred in behalf of Canada on the peace of 1815, would probably have failed to secure for the province a port on the sea, although the British, who held so large a portion of the State of Maine, might have fairly sought some equiva- lent for it. At all events no strenuous effort was made to obtain such an advantage — nor was there any attempt on our part to ascertain what the precise boundaries were which tlie Americans claimed. We will just see how a British negotiator many years later consented to draw a line which placed the land communications of the mother country with the pro- vinces in war time at the mercy of an enemy for many miles of its course — Canadian interests and Imperial considerations being alike neglected — peace and war alike hampered, by want of foresight, prudence, or statesmanlike consideration. The increasing prosperity of Canada forced her to enter into closer relations with the United States, and to accede to arrangements with the Federal Government, which were of course regulated by Imperial agency, and which were not always characterised by wisdom. But there was no alternative — at least not one which could then be adopted. The idea of a great confederation of the British Provinces, which would enable Canada to avail herself of the ports of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, if it presented itself at all, was seen to be sur- rounded by embarrassing obstacles and conflicting sentiments. The skill in the conception, and the energy displayed in the execution, of the canal system, which is the grandest and most extensive in the world, have made a practicable passage of more than 2000 miles from Anticosti up to Superior City; and works 188 CANADA. proposed or in progress by land and water attest the enterprise and resolution with which the Canadians contended against the only impedimenta in the way of their prosperity and greatness. The claims of Canada to Imperial aid against invasion are strengthened by concessions made by the Imperial agents, which clear away the path of the invaders. Although all the border States had their representatives and champions, the voice of Canada was not heard in the deliberations of the Commission. It Avas British territory which was in debate — there are some Avho hold that Canada is alone called upon to defend it. Although the land may be invaded because it belongs to Great Britain, so far that Great Britain is actually attacked by aggression upon it, Canada, involved in war because of its de- pendency on the British Crown, must bear the brunt of defending that which British diplomacy has rendered peculiarly liable to invasion. It is plain that those who Insist on leaving Canada to defend herself, are advocating a policy which tends to separate Canada from the British Crown. The provinces are ruled by a British viceroy, and are under the British flag, which would be the cause of an American attack. Canada can do nothing to provoke hostility, but the English may be struck with effect as long as the provinces are ruled by the Crown, and contain a company of British soldiers. It would be interesting to inquire whether the Canadians would be better off by themselves than they are at present, supposing always that the new theories are likely to prevail, in case of war. Notwithstanding the violence and exaggerated language of the American press, it is only right to conclude that Canada is far less liable to insult and aggression under British pro- tectil can not Brit] alonl pro the depi left who of stoo thai THE VALUE OP THE PKOTECTIOX. 189 r attest the J Canadians 1 the way of I of Canada gthened by whicli clear gh all the champions, eliberations Y which was Canada is h the land Britain, so aggression of its de- le brunt of s Tendered that those lerself, are te Canada ruled by which anada can ish may be i ruled by h soldiers, sther the than they V theories istandinjT A.merican ida is far tish pro- lac tection than she would be witliout it. ]Jut that remprk can only hold good in cases where the Americans do not feel more than usual irritation against Great Britain. The Canadians must feel that if they stood alone, pretexts would not long be wanting to treat the provinces as Texas was served, Canada has at present the power of England at her back, and the threat to deprive her of it by no means implies tliat she will be left to fight single-handed in the day of need. On the whole, balancing the chances of aggression on account of England against the chances of aggression if she stood alone, it is certain that Canada gains more than she loses by her present connection. The growth of great states along her frontier, and the excessive weakness of a water boundary in face of a maritime power, have caused us at home to insist on the engineering impossibility of defending the whole of the land and lake boundaries, but it by no means follows that the conquest of the country would be equally easy. With the full command of the sea and all its advantages — with commerce free — with a won- derful unanimity in the object of the war — with im- mense exaltation of spirit, and unparalleled expenditure of money, the Northern Americans have not yet subdued the Southern States, though they have more than tested the quality of their inner armour. Canada, with its narrow belt of inhabited territory, flanked by inland seas and vast rivers, offers no resemblance, it is true, to the South, but aided by Great Britain and her army, lier fleet, and her purse, she might defy subjugation if she could not escape invasion. It must be noted that the Americans frequently dwell on ideas for a long time ere they attempt to carry them out, but that generally 190 CANADA. A a'i they do make an eflbrt to give 'U'uctical effect to tliosc theories which have taken L* of the popular mind. For many years ])efore the aiiujxation of Texas and tlie war with Mexico took ph\ce, the people were prepared for both by the constant inculcation of their necessity. It is only justice to the Government of the United States to declare that their action has been generally restrictive, and that it has acted as a drag on the w^heels of the popular chariot. There is in fact a great people standing between the fringe of the noisy democracy and the highlands of Federal authority, which breaks the force of the popular wave, and hears unmovedly the beatings of the turbulent press, and raging voices of the Cleons of the hour. Shame it is indeed to them that they so often permit the worth, and sense, and honour of the nation to be represented by the worthless, foolish, degraded scum that simmers in its noisy ebullitions on the surface of the social system. We cannot be sure how far the Americans are actuated by the feelings which find expression in the most scandalous public paper of New York, but we do know that the paper in question is largely read, and that its favourite topic, when there is a lack of subjects for abuse or menace, is the forthcoming doom of Canada, " when this weary war is over.*' In ease of an invasion caused by any quarrel with Great Britain, or by any policy for which the Canadians are not responsible, what ought they to expect from us ? Everything but impossibilities. Among the greatest of impossibilities would be protection of the whole of the frontier, with all the aid they could give us. The greatest would be the defence of their territories with- out all the aid they could afford. The Canadians tell MUTUAL DUTIKS. 101 il effect to klio popular on of Texas people were oil of their aeiit of the 1 has been s a drag on s ia faet a f the noisy authority, and liears press, and hame it is the worth, epresented \t simmers the social A.mericans ression in •k, but we read, and f subjects doom of irrel with Canadians from us ? reatest of )le of the us. Tiie ies with- lians tell us that in tlie hour of dan;:;cr they "will ho ready, but as yet they hr.ve fallen short of that decree of preparation which we Lave a right to expect. If the blow falls at all it will come swift and strong, but if they do their duty to us there can be no fear of our failing them iu the time of peril. The Honourable Joseph Howe has vindicated the claims of tlie colonies to the care, protection, and assis- tance of the mother country. He has pointed out the defects in our system, from which the inevitable neces- sity arises, that the colony shall become detached from the mother country, to become its rival, or probably its enemy at some future stage of its existence. Though California — 3000 miles away — is represented at Wash- ington ; " though Algeria is represented at Paris ; " the provinces of North America have no representation in London. " Our columns of gold,'^ he exclaims, " and our pyra- mids of timber, may rise in your Crystal Palaces, but our statesmen in the great council of the empire never. Saxony or Wirtemberg are treated with a deference never accorded to Canada, though they are peopled by foreign- ers. The war of 1812-15 was neither sought nor pro- voked by the British xVmericans. It grew out of the continental wars, with which Ave certainly had as little to do. Whether a Bourbon or a Bonaparte sat upon the throne of France, was ;i matter of perfect indiffer- ence to us. We were pursuing our lawful avocations — clearing up our country, opening roads into the wilderness, bridging the streams, and organising so- ciety as we best could, trading with our neighbours, and wishing them no harm. In the meantime British cruisers were visiting and searching American vessels 192 CANADA. on the sea. Then shots were fired, and, before we liud time to recall our vessels engaged in foreign conimeree, or to make the slightest i)rL'paratioii for defence, our coasts were infested by American crui- sers and privateers, and our whole frontier was in a blaze. " You count the cost of war by the array and navy estimates, but who can ever count the cost of that war to us? A war, let it be borne in mind, into which we were precipitated without our knowledge or eon- sent. Let the coasts of England be invaded by power- ful armies for three summers in succession; let the whole Channel from Falmouth to the Nore be menaced, let Southampton be taken and burnt, let the South- downs be swept from the Hampshire hills, and the rich pastures of Devonshire supply fat beeves to the enemy encamped in the western counties, or marching on Manchester and London ; let the youth of England be drawn from profitable labour to defend these great centres of industry, the extremities of the island being given up to rapine and to plunder; fancy the women of England living for three years with the sound of artillery occasionally in their ears, and the thoughts of something worse than death ever present to their ima- ginations ; fancy the children of England, with wonder and alarm on their pretty faces, asking for three years when their fathers would come home; fancy, in fact, the wars of the Roses or the civil wars back again, and then you can understand what we suffered from 1812 to 1815. Talk of the cost of war at a distance; let your country be made its theatre, and then you will understand how unfair is your mode of calculation when you charge us with the array estimates, and give TIIK EFFECT OF WAR ON CANADA. lO.'i , before wc ill foreign )arntioi; for Drieun crui- ;r was iii a ly and navy est of that , iato which I go or cou- i by power- in; let the »e menaced, the South- md the rich i the enemy arching on England be ;liese great dand being the women 3 sound of houghts of their ima- ith wonder three years 3y, in fact, again, and from 1812 stance; let 1 you will [calculation , and give us no credit for what we have done and suffered in your wars. " Though involved in the war of 1S12 by no inte- rest or fault of our own ; though our population was scattered, and our coasts and frontiers almost defence- less ; the moment it came, we prepared for combat without a murmur. I am just old enough to remember that war. The commerce of the Maritime Provinces was not a twentieth part of what it is now, but what we had was almost annihilated. Our mariners, de- barred from lawful trade, took to privateering, and made reprisals on the enemy. Our Liverpool ' clip- pers* fought some gallant actions, and did some service in those days. The war expenditure gave to Halifax an unhealthy excitement, but improvement was stopped in all other parts of the province; and, when peace came, the collapse was fearful even in that city. Ten years elapsed before it recovered from the derangement of industry, and the extravagant habits fostered by the war. " A few regiments were raised in the Maritime Pro- vinces, their militia was organised, and some drafts from the interior were brought in to defend Halifax, whence the expeditions against the French Islands and the State of Maine were fitted out. Canada alone was invaded in force. " General Smith describes the conduct of the Cana- dian militia in the few but weighty words that become a sagacious military chieftain pronouncing a jua^ment on the facts of history. "In 1812 the Republicans attacked Canada with two corps, amounting in the whole to 13,300 men. The British troops in the Province were but 4500, of which o 19^ CANADA. 3000 were in garrison at Quebec and Montreal. But 1500 could be spared for the defence of Upper Canada. From the capture of Michilimacinac, the first blow of the campaign, down to its close, the Canadian Militia took their share in every military operation. French and English vied with each other in loyalty, steadiness, and discipline. " Of the force that captured Detroit, defended by 2500 men, but a few hundreds were regular troops. Brock had but 1200 men to oppose 6300 on the Niagara frontier. Half Ijis force were Canadian Militia, yet he confronted the enemy, and, in the gallant action in which he lost his life, left an im- perishable record of the steady discipline with which Canadians can defend their country. "The invading army of yeomen sent to attack Montreal were as stoutly opposed by a single brigade of British troops, aided by the militia. In the only action which took place the Canadians alone were engaged. The enemy was beaten back, and went into winter quarters. "In 1813, Canada was menaced by three separate corps. The Niagara district was for a time overrun, and York, the capital of the Upper Province, was taken and burnt. The handful of British troops that could ' be spared from England's European wars, were inade- quate to its defence ; but in every struggle of the cam- paign, disastrous or triumphant, the Canadian Militia had their share. The French fought with equal gal- lantry in the Lower Province. At Chateaugay, Colonel de Salaberry showed what could be done with those poor, undisciplined colonists, who, it is now the fashion to tell us, can only be made good for anything by IMPERIAL APATHY. 195 treal. But jer Canada, irst blow of iian Militia n. French steadiness, efended by liar troops. 100 on the ) Canadian ind, in the left an im- with which to attack gle brigade [n the only alone were d went into ee separate le overrun, !, was taken that could were iiiade- of the cam- ian Militia equal gal- ay, Colonel with those the fashion nything by withdrawing them from their farms and turning them into regular soldiers. The American general had a force of 7000 infantry, 10 field pieces, and 250 cavalry. De Salaberry disputed their passage into the country he loved, with 1000 bayonets, beat them back, and has left behind a record of more value in this argument than a dozen pamphlets or ill-natured speeches in parliament." " When the independence of the United States was established in 1783, they were left with one half of the continent, and you with the other. You had much accumulated wealth and an overflowing population. They were three millions of people, poor, in debt, with their country ravaged and their commerce disorganised. By the slightest effort of statesmanship you could have planted your surplus population in your own provinces, and, in five years, the stream of emigration would have been flowing the right way. In twenty years the British and Republican forces would have been equalised. But you did nothing, or often worse than nothing. From 1784 to 1841, we were ruled by little paternal despotisms established in this country. We could not change an ofl&cer, reJuce a salary, or impose a duty, without the permission of Downing Street. For all that dreary period of sixty years, the Repub- licans governed themselves, and you governed us. Thev had uniform duties and free trade with each other. We always had separate tariff's, and have them to this tlay. They controlled their foreign relations — yon controlled ours. They had their ministers and consuls all over the world, to open new markets, and secure commercial advantages. Your ministers and consuls knew little of British America, and rar'^ly con- 2 196 CANADA. I suited its interests. Till the advent of Huskisson, our commerce was cramped by all the vices of the old colonial system. The Republicans could open mines in any part of their country. Our mines were locked up, until seven years ago, by a close monopoly held in this country by the creditors of the Duke of York. How few of the hundreds of thousands of Englishmen, who gazed at Nova Scotia's marvellous column of coal in the Exhibition, this summer, but would have blushed had they known that for half a century the Nova Scotians could not dig a ton of their own coal without asking permission of half a dozen English capitalists in the city of London. How few Englishmen now reflect, when riding over the rich and populous states of Illinois, Michigan, Missouri, and Arkansas, that had they not locked up their great west, and turned it into a hunting ground, which it is now, we might have had behind Canada, three or four magnificent provinces, enlivened by the industry of millions of British sub- jects, toasting the Queen's health on their holidays, and making the vexed question of the defence of our frontiers one of very easy solution. " When the Trent affair aroused the indignant feel- ing of the empire last autumn, we were — as we were in 1812 — utterly unprepared. The war again was none of our seeking. " Nova Scotia and New Brunswick had thousands of vessels] upon the sea, scattered all over the world. Canada had her thousand miles of frontier unprotected. Had war come, we knew that our money losses would have been fearful, and the scenes upon our sea-coasts and our frontiers, sternly painted as they must occur, without any stretch of the imagination, might well bid CANADA DURINQ THE TRENT AFFAIR. 197 kisson, our )f the old pen mines ere locked oly held in ; of York. Qglishmen, nn of cOfil ve blushed the Nova )al without capitalists iraen now dous states s, that had ned it into t have had provinces, ritish sub- holidavs, ice of our nant feel- l«'e were in was none thousands the world, iprotected. sses would sea-coasts ust occur^ it well bid the ' boldest hold his breath for a time/ But, did a single man in all those noble provinces falter ? No ! Every man, ay, every woman accepted the necessity, and prepared for war. "Again it was a question of honour, and not of interest. In a week we could have arranged, by negociation, for peace with the United States, and have kept out of the quarrel. But who thought of such a thing ? Your homesteads were safe ; ours peril. A British — not a colonial ship — had been in boarded : but what then ? The old flag that had floated over our fathers' heads, and droops over their graves, had been insulted ; and our British blood was stirred — without our ever thinking of our pockets. The spirit and unanimity of the provinces, no less than the fine troops and war material shipped from this country, worked like a charm at Washington. Presi- dent Lincoln, like Governor Fairfield, saw clearly that he was to be confronted not only by the finest soldiers in the world, but by a united and high-spirited popula- tion. The eflbct was sedative ; the captives were given up. And the provincials — as is their habit, when there is no danger to confront — returned to their peaceful avocations." It may be necessary to make some allowance for the tinge of colonial patriotism in this passage, but after all the Hon. J. Howe is a transplanted Englishman. He speaks with the voice of some millions of people, and we must listen to it, or be prepared for a good deal of lukewarmness or " disloyalty." I have avoided any reference to the disputes which broke out into rebellion in 1837, because no useful end would be gained by an account of an unfortunate schism which was produced 198 CANADA. by want of judgment on the part of the Government at home, and by the extreme fanaticism of a party in the province. But the fanaticism has in no small degree been justified by what has since taken place. When " rebels " are pardoned, it may be a proof that the government which pardons is strong and generous. When " rebels " are not only restored to civic rights, but are invested TFith office, it is almost a demonstra- tion that the government which permits them to exercise important functions under it, was in error in the contest which drove these men to resistance. The rebellion in Canada had, however, nothing to do with the great question we are now discussing. We are approaching the larger subject, which is opened by the consideration of the arguments which are used by Imperialists and Colonists in their controversy respect- ing the magnitude and relation of the empire and the colony in war. It becomes of high practical value to consider what Canada can do, and what Canada has done in the direction of self-defence, should she be threatened with war, either from imperial or colonial causes. It can be no satisfaction to Canada to become a fief of the new Federal gwasi-republic because Great Britain failed in her duty; and all the references to the patriotism and exertions of valour of Canadians in past times, would reflect all the greater discredit on them noWi when they enjoy rights and privileges unknown to their hardy ancestors. Let us first see what her resources and defensive powers are, and then cast a glance at what Canada and the British Provinces in North America have got to defend. The only military force Canada can employ is the militia. Her THE FUTUBE. 199 vernment party in no small en place, iroof that generous, dc rights, jmonstra- them to a error in ice. The o do with We are ed by the used by Y respect- e and the present proud position should induce the people of Canada to make every effort to preserve the conditions under which they enjoy so much liberty, happiness, and prosperity; but she has in the future a heritage of priceless value, which she holds in trust for the great nation that must yet sit enthroned on the Lakes and the St. Lawrence, and rule from Labrador to Columbia. ider what le in the breatened il causes, me a fief se Great irences to adians in credit on privileges first see and then Provinces The only tia. Her # CHAPTER XIL The Militia — American Intentions — Instability of the Volunteer Prin- ciple—The Drilling of Militia— The Commission of 1862— The Duke of Newcastle's Views — Militia Schemes — Volunteer Force — Apathy of the French Canadians — The First Summons. \S In a country situated as Canada is, without well- defined obligations as regards the sovereign power, there can be but two kinds of military force avaikible for defence — a militia and an organisation of volunteers. The first is essentially the proper constitutional force on which Canada must mainly rely in case of invasion. The second, notwithstanding its enormous importance and value, is but accidental. Unless Canada assumed towards us the relations of a protected state, like India, and raised an army officered by the British such as was that of Oude, or as that, to a certain extent, of some states at the present day, her volunteers could have no fixed and adequate value in a general scheme of defence. The Canadian militia must constitute the chief strength of Canada in operations on her territory. It would be impossible for Great Britain to do more than provide officers, money, arms, artillery, and ammu- nition — perhaps the head and backbone of the force AMERICAN INTENTIONS. 201 unteer Prin- 1862— The teer Force — tout well- iver, there ihible for ^lunteers. iial force invasion, aportance assumed ke India, such as jxtent, of ers could il scheme itute the territory. do more d ammu- the force which would be needed for a large system of campaigns. The only enemy Canada has to ?ear is the Northern Republic. I am quite willing to do every justice to the moderation of Mr. Seward, and to the pacific policy of Mr. Lincoln, but it cannot be disputed that the strength of the central Government will be much diminished on the cessation of the present conflict, and that whatever way it ends the Cabinet of Washington will be little able to oppose the passions of the people in the crisis which peace, whether it be one of humilia- tion or of triumph, will bring with it. Passion, the passion wrought of pride, love of dominion, national feeling, and the like, is far stronger than the silken bond of commerce. There is danger of war with Great Britain as soon as this war in America is over ; and the question is, how far Canada will be able to aid herself? Because if she does not contribute largely to her own defence, it seems certain that British statesmen will not strive very strenuously to avert her doom. At the moment I write there is not, in a state of organised efficiency, one regiment of militia in the length, which is great, and the breadth, which is small, of Canada. Party violence has set at nought all warnings and all solicitations. The Canadians appear to rely on the traditions of the past, and on the result of the small cam- paigns in the war with America, without any apprecia- tion of the vast changes which have taken place since. Northern Americans, reaching their boundaries with pain and many a toilsome march, filtered small corps upon their soil — far inferior in numbers and equipment to those which now represent the quota of the smallest state in the Union. In my letters from America I called attention to the significant fact that the northernmost 202 CANADA. point of the territory claimed by the Southern Con- federacy was within 120 miles of the lake which forms the southern boundary of Canada. It may not be likely that the Confederacy will ever make good its claim to Western Virginia, and fix its standard in un- disturbed supremacy at Wheeling, but it is nevertheless true that a strong passionate instinct urges the people of the North to consolidate the states of the West and those of the East by the absorption of Canada, which, with its lakes and its St. Lawrence, would be ample recompense for the loss of the South ; and, with the South in the Union, would be the consummation of the dream of empire in which Americans wide-awake pass their busy restless lives. The Americans are well aware of the vast advantage of striking a sudden blow. The whole subject of Canadian invasion lies developed in well-considered papers in the bureau drawers of Washington. At the time of the Trent affair I was assured by an officer high in rank in the government that General Winfield Scott had come back from France solely to give the State the benefit of his counsels and experience in conducting an invasion of Canada; and I cannot think it doubtful that the Federal Government would, in four or five weeks after a declaration of war with England, be prepared to pour 120,000 or 150,000 men across the British frontier. What has Canada done to meet the danger ? In May, 1862, the Honourable John Macdonald proposed that a minimum of 30,000 men or a maximum of 50,000 men should be enrolled and drilled for one month every year for three or for five years, but it was considered that Canada could not spare so large a number of men from the pursuits of trade, and above all of agriculture, during INSTABILITY OF THE VOLUNTEER PRINCIPLE. 203 em Con- ich forms y not be good its •d in un- vertheless he people West and la, which, be ample with the mation of ide-awake is are well den blow, developed rawers of air I was )vernment lack from fit of his ivasion of that the eeks after 3d to pour frontier. In May, sed that a 3,000 men every year iered that men from ire, during the open season when drill would be practicable. The measure was rejected. Mr. Sandfield Macdonald, after the failure of this proposal, introduced and carried a measure which gave the Government a permissive power to call out the unmarried militiamen for six days' drill in every year, and which provided that militia officers might be attached to the regular regiments serving in Canada for two months every year in order to learn their duties. By the fundamental law of Canada the Government has the power of calling out in time of war, first, all eligible unmarried men be- tween 18 and 45 years of age; secondly, married men between 18 and 45; and finally, those males fit to carry arms between 45 and 60 years of age. Under these laws Canada should have a force of 470,000 men avail- able for service, and of these there are actually on the muster rolls of the militia 197,000 unmarried men between 18 and 31 years of age, whose service would be compulsory in case of need. The Canadian Parlia- ment voted half a million of dollars in each of the years 1863 and 1864 for military purposes, but the greater proportion of these sums was expended on the volunteers and on the staff of the militia. There has been no adequate return for the heavy drain such a sum causes on the Provincial exchequer. The best commentary on the voluntary system in militia drills is to be found in the fact that less than 10,000 men have been in attendance on them. With the experience we have had of the unstable character of volunteer forces in the field, it is not prudent for Canada to rely on her volunteers so much as she does. They have within their very body the 201 CANADA. seeds of dissolution. Some corps can decree their dis- bandraent at two months', others at six months' notice — in other words, they may melt away at the very crisis of the war. Does American volunteering teach us no- thing? In all human probability the South would have been struck to the earth at the first Battle of Bull Run, if the Pennsylvania volunteers had not presented to the world the extraordinary and disgraceful spectacle of whoie battalions under arms marching off from the field, as their unfortunate General McDowell expressed it, "to the sound of the enemy's guns." That was no isolated case. The desertion, at the same time, of other volunteer battalions under the equally unfor- tunate General Patterson in the Shenandoah Valley, left him unable to prevent the Confederate General Johnston marching with all his men to the aid of Beauregard. Over and over again the Federal leaders have been paralysed by similar defections, and it was not till they became strong enough to hold the volun- teers by force, as Meade did before he made his attempt against Richmond, that the evil was cured. Had the Federals gained Bull Run, they were ready to have marched on Richmond at once — they would have found the city defenceless, and the South disorganised. Such a proof of Federal power as a decisive victory would, 1 believe, from what I saw in the South, have crushed the Secession party, and have strength- ened the adherents of the Union, who were then numerous in many of the States. It might not have stopped the civil war, but it would have certainly given the most enormous preponderance to the North. The defeat mainly caused by McDowell's weakness in men, and the reinforcements received by the enemy in con- PROPORTIONS OF URBAN AND RURAL MILITIA. 205 their dis- uha* notice very crisis acli us no- nth would tie of Bull presented 1 spectacle f from the I expressed That 'vas mme time, ally unfor- )ah Valley, te General the aid of ral leaders and it was the volun- his attempt Had the iy to have ould have sorganised. ive victory he South, strength- were then not have ainly given orth. The ss in men, tny in con- sequence of Patterson's inability to hinder their arrival, which was caused bv the wholesale disbandnient of volunteers, gave such an impetus to the Confederates, that their principle was carried triumphantly over the States, and crnshed all opposition. We have seen what that defeat has cost the Federals since. In Canada the volunteers belong almost exclusively to the urban population — only a fifth come from rural Hstricts ; und as the towns in Canada arc very small, it is plain that the volunteer system would operate very injuriously on the trade of the cities, and would in all likelihood break down, without any imputation on the courage and patriotism of the townsmen. It is, of course, be- yond the power of Canada to cope with the people of the United States single-handed, but the agencies which England could bring to bear against the enemy on the American seaboard, and on all the seas fur- rowed by her ships, would damp the ardour which the Northerners would exhibit at the first onslaught. It would be, no doubt, a very deplorable and a very dis- graceful contest, but Great Britain would not be responsible for the beginning of hostilities. Just in proportion to the celerity and magnitude of their first successes would be the efforts of the Ameri- cans to secure their conquest. It is far easier to repel than to expel. A handful of militia, ill-drilled, supported by a similar force of volunteers of similar inefficiency, could oflPer no resistance to the swarms of invaders, and would but increase the stress to which the little army of Queen's troops in garrison here and there would be subjected at the outbreak of war. To all argument and entreaty, to insinuations and menace, Canada opposes the grand simplicity of her non 206 CANADA. po8siimti8. She is burthoncd with debt, and even without any expenditure for the militia her outlay is considcral)ly more than her income. A party in Canada called for a regular agreement with the Govern- ment at home to regulate the amount to be paid by Canada, and the troops to be furnished by her, as a part of the British Empire. These troops were to con- sist of militia of the first class, to be drilled by detach- ments in each succeeding year, till the whole number, whether it Mere 50,000 or 100,000, should be properly disciplined. It was proposed by some advocates of this scheme that each body of militia should be called out for six months ; and that when that period expired the men sliould be entitled to immunity from further drills till war broke out, when they would become liable for ten years' service, after which they would go into a reserve only to be used in great emergencies. Many modes of raising, maintaining, and drilling this force have been suggested ; but as the principle was not adopted they are scarcely worth discussing. Drills for short periods are certainly of little or no avail ; and if money cannot be borrowed to put 100,000 men in a state of readiness, the organisation of 50,000 men to be drilled for three months in each year in bodies of 12,000 or 15,000 does not seem at all un- reasonable. The rate of wages in Canada is very high, and the lowest estimate for the support, pay, and cloth- ing of a militiaman for six months comes to about £20 per man. It is, therefore, a simple sura in multiplica- tion to arrive at the ultimate figure of Canadian possu- mus in regard to the paying power of the Provinces. It is not true that if one man can be kept for £20 for six months two men can be kept for the same sum for three RELATIONS OP CANADA TO GREAT BRITAIN. 207 and even er outlay is L party in the Govern- be paid by ty her, as a /^crc to con- ])y detacli- ile number, be properly latcs of this I called out expired the irther drills e liable for . go into a i. nd drilling le principle discussing, ittle or no )ut 100,000 of 50,000 ch year in at all un- very high, , and cloth- about £20 multiplica- iian possu- Provinces. £20 for six n for three months. The levy of 50,000 militiamen for six months would cost Canada, if she were alone, one million sterling. Mr. Cartwright has pointed out that Canada could discipline 100,000 militia, with half a year's in- struction each, for as much as would support a standing army of 2,000 men for the same period. We may be very angry with the Canadians for their happy security. It is not so very long ago since the Duke's letters to Sir John Burgoyne startled us out of a similar insouci- ance. We may feel that the sudden development of the United States has placed us in a very doubtful military position. It is not so easy to shake off' the ob- ligations incurred by conquest and by emigration under the flag of Great Britain. In the face of very frigid warnings from the press, and very lukewarm enuncia- tions of policy from her best friends, Canada had some reason to fear that there is a secret desire " to let her slide," and that nothing would please England so much as a happy chance which placed the Provinces beyond our care without humiliation or war. The duty of Canadians to their own country is very plain indeed if the people of England refuse to give them distinct guarantees that under certain conditions they will give them the whole aid of money, men, and ships that is required ; but these guarantees are implied in the very fact of suzerainty of the Crown. It must, however, be made known — if it be not plain to every Englishman — that the abandonment of Canada implies a surrender of British Columbia, of Now Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward's, Newfoundland, if not also the West India Islands. Manv bitter words written and spoken here rankle in the breasts of the Canadians, and I have quoted the words in which a Canadian 208 CANADA. statesman has placed before Englishmen the terrible con- sequences which Canada may suffer from war, because she is a part of the British empire, engaged in a quarrel on imperial grounds with the Government of the United States. We do undoubtedly owe something to Canada, from the bare fact that for many years she resisted temptation, and remained under our flag unmoved by the blandishments and threats of the United States. In mj'^ poor judgment the abandonment of Canada would be the most signal triumph of the principle of democracy, and the most pregnant sign of the deca- dence of the British empire which could be desired by our enemies. No matter by what sophistry or by what expediency justified, the truth would crop out through the fact itself that we were retiring as the Romans did from Britain, Gaul, and Dacia, but that the retreat would be made in the face of united and civilised enemies, and that the sound of our recall would animate every nation in the world to come forth and despoil us. As yet there is no reason for such a pusillanimous policy. The Commission of 1862 laid it down as their opinion that an active force of 50,000, with a reserve of the same number, would be required for Canada; but as the bill founded on their report did not become law, the Canadian Government had no power to borrow arms from the home Government for the whole num- ber, as would have been the case had they passed the bill. Lord Monck, however, procured from the home Government a considerable augmentation of the sup- plies in store of artillery, small arms, ammunition and accoutrements. But the rejection of the Militia Bill errible con- rar, because in a quarrel the United to Canada, he resisted mmoved by ited States, of Canada principle of f the deca- i desired by stry or by Id crop out ring as the ia, but that ; of united nd of our rid to come isillanimous leir opinion 3rve of the ida; but as ►ecome law, to borrow ivhole num- passed the n the home of the sup- inition and Militia Bill THE DUIvE OF NEWCASTLE S VIEWS. 200 of 18(52 filled the home Government with apprehension. The Duke of Newcastle, on the 20th of August of that year, wrote as follows : — " If I urge upon you the importance of speedily re- suming measures for some better military organisation of the inhabitants of Canada than that which now exists, it must not be supposed that Her Majesty's Government is influenced by any particular apprehen- sion of an attack on the Colony at the present moment, but undoubtedly the necessity for preparation which has from time to time been urged by successive Secre- taries of State is greatly increased by the presence, for the first time on the American Continent, of a large standing army, and the unsettled condition of the neighbouring States. Moreover, the growing impor- tance of the Colony, and its attachment to free insti- tutions, make it every day more essential that it should possess in itself that without which no free institutions can be secure — adequate means of self-defence. The adequacy of those means is materially influenced by the peculiar position of the country. Its extent of frontier is such that it can be safe only when its popu- lation capable of bearing arms is ready and competent to fight. That the population is ready, no one will venture to dcubt ; that it cannot be competent, is no less certain, until it has received that organisation, and acquired that habit of discipline which constitute the difference between a trained force and an armed mob. The drill required in the regular army, or even in the best volunteer battalion, is not necessary, nor would it be possible, in a country like Canada, for so large a body of men as ought to be prepared for any emer- ' gency ; but the Government should be able to avail I 210 CANADA. . f itself of the services of the strong and healthy portion of the male adult population at short notice, if the dangers of invasion by an already organised army are to be provided against. " We have the opinions of the best military authori- ties, that no body of troops which England could send would be able to make Canada safe without the efficient aid of the Canadian people. Not only is it impossible to send sufficient troops, but if there were four times the numbers which we are now maintaining in British North America, they could not secure the whole of the frontier. The main dependence of such a country must be upon its own people. The irregular forces which can be formed from the population, know the passes of the woods, are well acquainted with the country, its roads, its rivers, its defiles: and for defensive warfare (for aggression they will never be wanted), would be far more available than regular soldiers. " It is not therefore the unwillingness, or the in- ability of Her Maj(^sty's Government to furnish suffi- cient troops, but the uselessness of such troops without an adequate militia force, that I wish to impress upon you. "In your despatch of the 17th May last, you in- formed me that there were then 14,760 volunteers enrolled, besides others who had been more or less drilled. It is far, indeed, from my intention to dis- credit either the zeal or the efficiency of these volun- teers, who have, I hope, greatly increased in number since the date of your despatch ; but they constitute a force which cannot suffice for Canada in the event of war. They might form an admirable small contingent ; but what would be required, would be a large army. THE DUKE OF NEWCASTLE S VIEWS. 311 Jiy portion :ice, if the i army are ry authori- could send ;he efficient impossible four times r in British ^hole of the (untry must s which can isses of the y, its roads, rarfare (for ould be far or the in- rnish suffi- ops without ipress upon st, you in- volunteers ore or less ion to dis- hese volun- in number lonstitute a le event of ;ontingeut j arge army. They might form a force stronger than is necessary in time of peace to secure internal tranquillity, but would be inadequate to repel external attack in time of war. Past experience shows that no reasonable amount of encouragement can raise the number of volunteers to the required extent. " It appears to me that the smallest number of men partially drilled which it would be essential to provide within a given time, is 50,000. The remainder of the militia would of course be liable to be called upon in an emergency. Perhaps the best course would be, to drill every year one or more companies of each battalion of the sedentary militia. In this manner the training of a large number of men might be effected, and all com- panies so drilled should, once at least in two years, if not in each year, be exercised in battalion drill, so as to keep up their training. " I put forward these suggestions for the considera- tion of the Canadian Government and Parliament, but Her Majesty's Government have no desire to dictate as to details, or to interfere with the internal govern- ment of the Colony. Their only object is so to assist and guide its action in the matter of the militia as to make that force efil jient at the least possible cost to the Province and to the mother country. " The Canadian Government will doubtless be fully alive to the important fact that a well organised system of militia will contribute much towards sustaining the high position with reference to pecuniary credit, which, in spite of its large debt, and its deficient revenue for the past few years, the Colony has hitherto held in the money markets of Europe. A. country which, however unjustly, is suspected of inability or indisposition to v2 ; 010 CANADA. X^rovide for its own defence, does not, in the present circumstances of America, offer a tempting field for investment in public funds or the outlay of private capital. Men question the stable condition of affairs in a land which is not competent to protect itself. " It may, no doubt, be argued on the other hand, that the increased charge of a militia would diminish rather than enlarge the credit of the Colony. I am convinced that such would not be the case, if steps were taken for securing a basis of taxation sounder in itself than the almost exclusive reliance on Customs duties. It is my belief that a step in this direction would not only supply funds for the militia, but would remove all apprehension which exists as to the resources of the Colony. ' " Whatever other steps may be taken for the im- proved organisation of the militia, it appears to Her Majesty's Government to be of essential importance that its administration, and the supply of funds for its support, should be exempt from the disturbing action of ordinary politics. Unless this be done there can be no confidence that, in the appointment of officers, and in other matters of a purely military character, no other object than the efficiency of the force is kept in view. Were it not that it might fairly be considered too great an interference with the privileges of the representatives of the people, I should be inclined to suggest that the charge for the militia, or a certain fixed portion of it, should be defrayed from the conso- lidated fund of Canada, or voted for a period of three or five vears. " It has further occurred to me, that the whole of the British Provinces on the continent of North Ame- THE DUKE OF NEWCASTLE S VIEWS. 213 le present nr field for of private of affairs tself. :lier hand, i diminish ay. I am e, if steps sounder in n Customs 3 direction but would e resources Dr the im- ars to Her importance mds for its »ing action lere can be fficers, and iracter, no is kept in considered ges of the nclined to a certain the conso- d of three e whole of orth Ame- rica have, in this matter of defence, common interests and common duties. Is it impossible that, with the free consent of each of these Colonies, one uniform system of militia training and organisation should be introduced into all of them ? The numbers of men to be raised and trained in each would have to be fixed, and the expenses of the whole would be defrayed from a common fund, contributed in fair proportion by each of the Colonies. If the Governor-General of Canada were Commander-in-Chief of the whole, the Lieutenant- Governors of the other Colonies would act as Generals of Division under him ; but it would be essential that an Adjutant-General of the whole force, approved by Her Majesty's Government, should mov<' to and fro, as occasion might require, so as to gi»e uniformity to the training of the whole, and cohesion to the force itself. ; " As such a scheme would affect ore than one Colony, it must, of course, emanate from the Secretary of State, but Her Majesty's Government would not entertain it unless they were convinced that it would be acceptable both to the people of Canada and to the other Colonies ; and they desire to know, in the first instance, in what light any such plan would be viewed by the members of your Executive Council. I under- stand that the Lieutenant-Governors of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, availing themselves of the leave of absence lately accorded to them, intend to meet you in Quebec in the course of the ensuing month. Tliis visit will afford you a good opportunity for consulting them upon this important question. " The political union of the North American Colonies has often been discussed. The merits of that measure, 214 CANADA. and the difficulties in the way of its accomplishment, have been well considered ; but none of the objections which oppose it seem to impede a union for defence. This matter is one in which all the Colonies have inte- rests common with eacli other, and identical with the policy of England.'* The Government of the day presented a scheme which was rightly characterised by Lord Monck as containing no principle calculated to produce effective results, and to be entirely illusory and nugatory as far as the enrolment of the militia was concerned. Lord Monck enclosed the heads of a plan for the reorganisa- tion and increase of the active militia, based mainly en the voluntary principle, with rules for the' erection of armouries, drill-sheds and rifle-ranges, and the appoint- ment of brigade-majors and sergeants, &c., and other means of a perfect organisation. The scheme was to raise an active battalion for each territorial division of the country corresponding with the regimental district of the sedentary militia, to be increased in number as needed, each active battalion to be taken from the sub- division of the district. Mr. Macdonald thought no Government could exist which Avould venture to recom- mend the raising of 50,000 partially trained militia, although the cost, spread over five years, would scarcely exceed the annual appropriations. In fact, at the root of all these various schemes and plans lay the evil of uncertainty. Canada did not know how far England would go in her defence, and seemed fearful of granting anything, lest it might be an obligation which the mother country would have otherwise incurred, whilst England, by withholding any definite promise, or indulging only in vague remonstrances, sought to THE MILITIA SCHEMES. 2J5 iplishmeut, objections 3r defence, have inte- il with the a scheme Monck as ce eflfective \tory as far led. Lord reorganisa- mainly on erection of le appoint- and other ime was to division of tal district number as n the sub- hought no ! to recom- ed miUtia, Id scarcely at the root he evil of r England f granting which the red, whilst omise, or ionght to make the Canadians show their hands. Each Avas anxious for an answer to the question, " How much will you give us?" The Military Commissioners reported that Cana'^a ought to provide 150,000 men, including the reserves, which force, large as it is, would be less than that furnished by states of smaller popu- lation in the Northern Union ; but Canada is very poor, and not unnaturally makes the most of the argu- ment that she can have no war of her own, and that her defence should be our affair. No one, I appre- hend, will allow himself to be beaten to death because there is no policeman by. In February, 3 8G3, a report of the state of the militia of the Province was prepared by Lieutenant-Colonel de Salaberry and Lieutenant-Colonel Powell, of the Adjutant-General'c of Militia Department in Lower and Upper Canada, respectively, from which it appears that there were then 25,000 volunteers organised, of whom 10,230 belonged to Lower, and 14,780 belonged to Upper Canada. Of these there were proportionately 33 for every 1000 in the cities, and 7-3 for every 1000 in the counties ; those in the upper section contributing less than those in the lower section, and Upper Canada contributing a larger number on the 1000 than Lower Canada. In the enumeration of the various companies — field batteries, troops of horse, companies of artillery, engineers, rifles, infantry, naval and marine companies — it is to be observed that only one naval company appears as having performed twelve days' drill. Some steps should be taken to develop naval and marine companies in the passes along the shores of the lakes. The importance of having trained sailors and gunners stationed just where they are wanted cannot be exag- 21G CAXADA. ■^ i gerated, but it is not very likely that Brigade-Majors ■will look after such a force. It must be remembered that the national force of Canada consists of two different organisations — the volunteer militia and the regular militia. Canada is divided into twenty-one military districts, eleven in Lower and ten in Upper Canada. In each district there is a Brigade-Major to superintend the drill and instruction of all volunteer companies, furnish monthly reports thereon, and by inspections and active organisation to promote the effi- ciency of the volunteer service as far as possible. The ap- pointment of these officers has been attended with very good results in this branch of the Militia StaflF. In August, 1862, forty-six non-commissioned officers were sent out by Government, and paid by the Canadian Parliament, to drill volunteers ; and sixty-eight ser- geants were subsequently applied for to meet the increasing demand for instruction. The report of the Deputy Adjutant- Generals of Militia, presented to Lord Monck in 1863, stated— " Taking population as a basis, these Volunteer Corps are distributed as follows : — ''Population all Canada (census 1861), 2,506,752,— present Volunteer force, 25,010, or say 10 Volunteers for each 1,000 inhabitants. " Population — Lower Canada. 1,110,664 Volunteers, 10,230,— or say 9^ for each 1,000. Upper Canada. 1,396,088 Volunteers, 14,780,— or Bay 10§ for each 1,000. 2,506,752 25,010 (C Population all Canada, showing proportion of Volunteers in cities and counties. ;ade-Majors cmembered its of two An and the twenty-one I in Upper ie-Major to 1 volunteer Dn, and by )te the effi- le. The ap- d with very Staflf. In fficers were ; Canadian '^-eight ser- meet the port of the Bsented to iteer Corps 506,752,— Volunteers 00. )00. Dortion of Cities, 257,273 Uural, 2,249,479 VOLUNTEER FORCE. 217 Voliinteera 8, .'525,— or aay .33 for each 1,000. „ 16,485,— or aay 7^ for each 1,000. 2,506,752 25,010 " Population of Cities. Lower Canada, 153,389 Volunteers, 5,500, or say 36 for each 1,000. Upper Canada, 103,88't „ 3,025, or say 29 for each 1,000. 257,273 8,525 " Population of Rural Parts. Lower Canada, 957,275 Volunteers, 4,730, or say 5 for each 1,000. Upper Canada, 1,292,204 „ 11,755, or say 9 for each 1,000. 2,249,479 16,485 " It will thus be seen that in the cities of Canada, those in the Upper Section of the Province contribute less, in proportion to their population, than do those in the Lower Section ; while in the rural parts. Upper Canada contributes a larger number for each 1,000 inhabitants than does Lower Canada. " The volunteering, thus far, has been the free-will offering of the people, and it is gratifying to observe that in the counties of Upper Canada; with the excep- tion of three, nearly every one has furnished its quota of the 25,000 now organised, while in many instances they are considerably beyond the proportionate number. " In Lower Canada, until of late, volunteer corps have been chiefly organised in the cities, but within the last six months a considerable number of volunteers have been organised in the rural parts, and now evi- dences are not wanting that ere long applications will be received at this department for permission to increase this number considerably. "The present volunteer force comprises field bat- teries, troops of cavalry, foot companies of artillerv. engmeer companies. rifle companies, companies of • 1 rl' I 1 I 218 CANADA. infantry, and naval and marine companies, and is divided properly into three classes, viz. : Class A, and two divisions of Class B. " Corps in Class A are those who have furnished their own uniforms, and who have been paid ^6.00, for each man uniformed, for 12 days* drill performed in 1862. " First corps in Class B who have furnished their own uniforms, and who have been paid $6.00 in lieu of clothing, after 12 days' drill performed in 1802. " Second corps in Class B who have been organised upon the understanding that they receive no pay for the ] 2 days* drill, but that the Government will pro- vide tliem with uniforms and drill instruction. " Of the corps in Class A, 6 field batteries, 11 troops of cavalry, 2 companies of foot artillery, and 33 rifle companies have certified to the performance of 12 days* drill in accordance with the General Order of the 4me, and how ipancy of this bur hundred roads, and ^anada is not itural advau- is are never J are easy — the Atlantic }e no longer the load of md the States lying on the left banks of the lakes and of the St. Lawrence will be enriched by the demands of America for her produce, in proportion as the waste lands are occupied, and the Union is filled with a tax-paying swarming population. It is astonishing how soon a man liberates himself from the traditions and allegiance of his native country in the land of his adoption, when his interests and his pride are touched. The attitude of our immediate colonies in face of the transportation question will at once satisfy us that the mother country has little to expect from old associations, whenever her interests are made to appe-ir antagonistic to those of her colonies. Canada has the most liberal institutions in the world — her municipal freedom is without parallel — education is wileiy disseminated — religious toleration restrains the violence of factions. The cold is by no means as great as that which is borne by the inha- bitants of the greater part of northern Europe, and is far less dangerous to health than the more temperate climates of lower latitudes, where rain and tempest are substituted for snow and hard frosts. The frontier of Canada is assailable at all points. In some places it is constituted by a line only visible on a map, in others it is a navigable inland sea, in others a line drawn in water, in others the bank of a river or the shore of a lake. Coincident with it runs the frontier of the United States. The best guarantee against invasion would be, complete naval supremacy on the lakes and rivers, because they constitute the most accessible roads for the invaders, and the most serviceable barriers for defenders if they have the proper means of defence. To give any chance of successful resistance, some equality of naval force 228 CANADA. on the part of the invaded is almost indispensable. The question arises, who shall provide this naval force? Canada cannot. She is prevented by Imperial treaties, by want of means, and even if she had them, she is forbidden to use the means, by the principle which for- bids a dependency equipping ships of war in times of peace. Great Britain has no doubt a powerful fleet, but the far inferior navy of the United States, close at hand, contains more vessels suitable for warlike opera- tions in inland waters and canals than we possess, 4000 miles away. In fact we ought to have a very great preponderance of small vessels to give us a fair start, and even then it would be difficult to begin hostilities on equal terms. Lake Michigan, with the enormous resources of Chicago, is entirely American, and the possession of such a base is an advantage which is by no means counterbalanced by our position on Lake Huron. To prevent the enemy clearing all before them on the lakes, by an energetic naval sortie from their ports, it would be necessary to have the means of furnishing a flotilla as soon as hostilities became immi- nent, and to watch every point, particularly such as that of Sorel, where communication from Richelieu to the St. Lawrence might be interrupted. But it is thought we cannot hope to cope with the Americans on equal terms in all the lakes, and that we must be content with concentrating our strength on Lake Ontario and in the St. Lawrence. All our water- ways are very much exposed. Whilst Great Britain retains her supremacy, the St. Lawrence is open during the summer, and can be kept free by iron-plated vessels as far up as Montreal. The day of wooden gunboats has passed, and it becomes requisite for the Government to ensable. The naval force ? perial treaties, them, she is pie which for- ir in times of )owerful fleet, )tates, close at warlike opera- possess, 4000 a very great is a fair start, }gin hostilities the enormous can, and the e which is by tion on Lake ng all before \l sortie from ) the means of became immi- ilarly such as I Richelieu to I. But it is he Americans b we must be jth on Lake II our water- Great Britain s open during -plated vessels gunboats has rovernment to CANALS AND RAILWAYS. 229 take immediate steps to secure an adequate supply of armoured vessels on the spot as soon as hostilities become probable. It is gratifying to know that the Canadian Legislature is about to fortify the harbour and arsenal at Kingston, so as to cover the infant naval force. Under any circumstances, it is not pos- sible to defend a canal by guarding the locks, or by placing forts at particular places, and yet the canals are of vital importance to us. The Beauharnais Canal runs on the right bank of the St. Lawrence, and is pecu- liarly unfortunate in its military position. The Wel- land Canal is of consequence, but it would be better to destroy it than permit an enemy to hold it. The Rideau Canal, which runs from Lake Huron to Kingston, is a very valuable communication, but it needs to be deepened and enlarged at the Rapids. All the canals require to be enlarged and improved, but they are far better placed, bad as their state and position are, than the roads and railways. The Grand Trunk Railway is open to attack for many miles at different parts of its course, and in some places trains could be fired upon from American territory ! Our reinforcements last winter were sent through New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, in sleighs, along a route which for miles could be cut across at any time by the enemy from Maine, and it would be necessary, to make all safe, for us to follow the Metapodliac road, or to construct the intercolonial railway. The harbours of Halifax and of St. John's are not closed in Avinter, and the mode which was adopted of sending troops into Canada by those points would no doubt be reverted to till some better means shall be provided. From St. Andrew's, in New Brunswick, 230 CANADA. M there is a railroad to Woodstock, which lies near the state boundary of Maine. Here the route from St. John's meets the St. Andrew road, and united the line follows the course of the St. John River, and may be divided into four days' marches — to Florenceville, 1 ; to Tobique, 2 ; to Grand Falls, 3 ; to Little Falls, 4. All this route lies close to the American frontier, and is therefore quite unfit for the march of troops in detach- ments. The St. John's route also takes four days to Woodstock. Even with the advantages afforded by the line of railroad, it must be remembered that the snows of winter may often mar all combinations; — rur first detachments suffered considerably from cold in the railway carriages, and it may be readily conceived that the course of an army in sleighs to Riviere du Loup on the St. Lawrence, where the Grand Trunk Railway begins or terminates, might be rendered very unsafe by no more formidable agencies than violent snow storms alone. Our military authorities do not, it is said, fear a winter campaign, but the Americans have already shown that they are not to be deterred by frost and snow from moving troops into Canada. To ensure moderate security the Metis road, notwithstanding its greater length, should be improved and adapted for military purposes, and the railway should be constructed to complete the work. In considering the three modes of invasion of which I shall speak, it may be inferred that Montreal will be the most likely point of attack, and that Quebec will be comparatively safe at first, but it would not be wise to act on the hypothesis as if it were an abso- lute certainty. In the State of New York, at its capital of Albany, PROBABLE LINES OF INVASION, 231 lies near the lite from St. lited the line and may be iceville, 1 ; to Falls, 4. All )ntier, and is ps in detacli- four days to brded bv the at the snows s; — our first cold in the •nceived that I du Loup on ink Railway verv unsafe dolent snow fear a winter shown that from moving security the ngth, should )ses, and the e the work. )n of which ontreal will ;hat Quebec would not ere an abso- of Albany, the Americans possess an admirable base of operations against us. Except in winter, the Hudson is an open highway between Albany and New York, and the sea and railways connect it with the shores of the lakes and with the vast centres of American resource and industry. Albany is specially capable of serving as a base against the very places most likely to be assailed, Montreal and Quebec. There is no necessity for any argument to show that the loss of these places would be equiva- lent to the overthrow of the British in Canada. From the Hudson there is a canal to Lake Champlain, on the upper extremity of which, and almost on the railroad connecting Montreal with New York, is situated a case- mated work popularly known as Rouse's Point, about two days' march from the commercial capital of Canada. Rouse's Point would serve as an immediate base for the collection of supplies and the concentration of an army, whilst Albany would become the great depot for the war. It is probable that the Americans would try to strike several blows at once. They might direct one expe- ditionary force from Rouse's Point against Montreal, and others from Albany and Rouse's Point against Quebec. They might also menace, or actually attack, the frontier at Detroit or at Niagara. As a war with Great Britain would be popular, and no lack of men would be found, it would also be practicable for them to direct from either of those points an expedition to attack Ottawa, or the towns west of the river Ottawa. Kingston would also be a point of attack, as much from its importance to us as from its value to the enemy, who would, by the possession of it, command the Rideau Ciinfil, which connects the river Ottawa with Lake Ontario. It is plain that if the points liable to i I 232 CANADA. attack were left in their present state, there would he little hope of our ability to defend tiie^r, by fighting in the open field. United, the Americnv;^ are to the Canadians as about eight to one. Tiie State of New York alone is as populous, and is richer, than the Canadas. Great Britain, tliousands of miles away, could not hope, by any expenditure of money, or by any dis- play of military skill, to equalise the conditions of the assailants and the defenders of her sovereignty. The engineers are right, therefore, in the argument, that the only way of enabling the Canadians and their British allies to make way against the Kepublicans, is to establish fortified works supported by or supporting a naval force. The Americans have an idea that it is possible to carry on operations during winter. Our engineers start with the assumption that it is impossible to do so on any large scale, and that it is out of the question for some five months of the year in Canada. The obstructions to siege operations might not be so serious, but they would be so considerable as to render the undertaking of them exceedingly hazardous, and little likely to succeed. The question, then, presents itself whether Canada can be defended for the time in each year during which operations are practicable, and if so. in what manner the defence is to be conducted. Our military authorities are of opinion that Canada can be defended. The Americans, as far as I could judge from their remarks on the subject, and from conversa- tions with several of their officers, conceive that Canada lies at their mercy whenever they choose to attack it. As a chain of great frontier fortresses could not be esta- blished or maintained, the means suggested for the purposes of defence are principally of a provisional LINES OF ATTACK AND DEFENCE. 233 c would be ' fighting ill are to the ate of New I", than the awav, could by any dis- ions of the gnty. The umcut, that I and their ublicans, is ' supporting a that it is inter. Our 5 impossible out of the in Canada. not be so to render dous, and n, presents le time in icable, and conducted. anada can mid judge conversa- at Canada attack it. Dt be esta- for the )rovisional .s character. To meet the flood of invasion, it is proposed to cover the approaches to the vulnerable points. Ot- tawa, Montreal, and Quebec would be defended by forces posted in cartiiworks, and covered by entrenched camps at Prescott and Richmond, and other suitable places. If we examine the modes of proceeding to which the enemy would probably resort, we shall find them classified under five heads. First, a naval descent on Godcrich. Second, the descent of a force between Detroit and London. Thirdly, the descent of a force on Niagara. Fourthly, the passage of a force between the St. Lawrence and Ogdensburg. Fifthly, an attack by several columns converging in concert on a point between Derby and Huntingdon, with a view of con- centrating on Montreal, and cutting the communi- cations with Kingston as well as with Quebec. Let us take a glance at the present state of the principal points, and consider what is needed to improve their con- dition. If we look at the map of Upper Canada, the position of Paris at once attracts the eye as a favourable site for the main body of the defensive force ; whilst Stratford and London, being points of railway junction, would naturally be held as long as possible. Guelph would serve as a point of concentration for troops obliged to fall back from London or from Stratford, according to the direction from which the enemy came. Toronto would become the natural point of concentration for troops obliged to retire from Guelph, and under the conditions necessitating such a retreat the force defending the Niagara frontier would be obliged to fall back upon Hamilton to the entrenched position covering that 231 CANADA. town. If the Americans attack the western settlements near Georgian Bay, it seems impossible to oppose them with assured advantage. A calm consideration of the subject has led the best authorities to the conclusion that we cannot hope at present to establish a naval force on citlicr Lake Huron or Luke Eric. The Wel- land C;inal is, in its present state, unsuited to the purposes of modern naval warfare, and a canal is at all times, and under the most favourable circumstances, very little to be depended upon. AVith the aid of forti- fied harbours there is, however, no reason to fear for our naval supremacy on Lake Ontario, and it is to that object our best efforts should be ("rected. It would of course be impolitic to leave Toronto and Hamilton open to naval demonstrations, but the iniacipal efforts of the authorities should be directed to establish permanent works to protect Ottawa, Montreal, Kingston, and Quebec, and to prepare positions for entrenched camps and earthworks on the points most likely to be as- sailed. It is plain that a navy alone can prevent descents on the land line of such extensive waters, and that the possession of Rouse's Point enables the Americans to turn the line of the Richelieu and threaten Montreal. Let us run rapidly over the positions, beginning with the west. If works were thrown up at Goderich and Sydenham on points there which are suitable for defen- sive positions, it might be possible to check any adven- turous force intent on speedy victory and conquest ; but no fortifications could be maintained on those remote points for permanent occupation, as the enemy could operate on the flanks and rear and turn them from Huron or Georgian Bay. LONDON — TORONTO. 23: settlements pposc them ition of the conclusion ish a naval The Wel- ited to the ,nal is at all [jumstances, aid of forti- i to fear for it is to that It would of railton open ftbrts of the permanent gston, and ched camps to be as- nt descents nd that the oaericans to Montreal, nning with derich and e for defen- any adven- 1 quest ; but ose remote lemy could them from A permanent work on Point Edward Sarnia, to com- mand the St. Clair River, has been suggested, and it has been recommended that the defences of Fort Maldon and Bar Island should be mudc permanent works, but other engineers have considered it unwise to erect fortifications at Sarnia or Anihcrstburg, and contend tliut the Niagara and Detroit frontiers are too much exposed to be tenable by any works. Guelpli should also be rendered worthy of its important posi- tion. London, being a railway station, is, in event ot a war, an important point to hold for the carriage of troops; and although there is no ground close at iiand admitting of tenacious grip, there is a tolerably good line of defence at Konoska, which the spade could convert into a fair position. When we come to consider the condition of the Toronto district it becomes apparent that two points require especial attention — Fort Dalhousie and Port Colborne. It is unwise to leave these places without defences to cover the garrisons, and to enable them to protect the shore against desultory operations and isolated detachments. Domville and Maitland are open to predatory attacks which might be prevented by ordi- nary fortifications or earthworks on eligible sites. It is impossible to defend a canal ; but much good might be done by enlisting the employes on the Welland as a sort of guard, whose local knowledge would be avail- able in time of danger. Although, as 1 have said, strong reasons are urged against any outlay for the defence of the Niagara frontier, on the ground of its exposure, there are distinguished authorities who insist that a permanent work is required at Fort Erie ; and who contend that another fort should be erected at •i r 236 CANADA. Niagara, in support of an entrenched camp, which would exercise a most powerful influence over the movements of an invading force, particularly if there were gunboats placed on the Chippewa. One of the painful necessities of war between the United States and Great Britain would be the destruction of the suspension bridges over the river. Hamilton is generally considered as incapable of defence, but it lies in a dis- trict which presents two lines of hills capable of being adapted to defensive purposes, and earthworks there might bs stiffly held, in case of attack, by the troops of the district, to enable the forces to concentrate and retire along routes previously determined. Toronto itself may be regarded as an open place equally in- capable of defence by ordinary works ; but it should not be left open to such a coup by a single cruiser, as might be obviated by the erection of a fort on the site of the new barracks : and it would be necessary to con- struct a strong entrenched camp to cover it and protect the troops retiring before the enemy. A chain of earthworks might be placed on the elevated ridges which run from the Don River towards Humber Bav. A casemated fort on the island is also most desirable. Toronto has something more than its mere strategical importance to recommend it. It has special claims to consideration as an important centre of civilised life, commerce,, enterprise, and learning. The defences of Kingston are more worthy of its ancient importance. In fact, the only works in Canada suited to modern warfare are those at Kingston and Quebec. The latter are capable of much im- provement, as has been already pointed out. Both need to be strengthened, and to be extended. If the mp, which ! over the \y if there )ne of the ted States ion of the s generally ss in a dis- le of being orks there the troops intrate and . Toronto equally in- it should cruiser, as on the site ary to con- kud protect chain of ;ed ridges mber Bay. desirable, strategical claims to ilised life, thy of its in Canada Kingston much im- ut. Both i. If the l^EFENCES OP KINGSTON. 237 Americans have beaten us by treaty, why should we not at all events have iron-plated vessels sent up the St. Lawrence as far as treaty will allow them to go, and prepare naval establishments and encourage naval volunteers for times of danger at Kingston? Fort Henry, Fort Frederick, an earthen work, and the Market Battery, are in good condition, but much must be done before the place can be regarded as being in a satisfactory state. The Shoal Tower, the Cedar Island Tower, and the Murney Tower, constructed of stone, are placed on points covering the water ap- proaches to Kingston. But all the guns in these works, with one exception, are en barbette, and to render Kingston safe it would be necessary to erect strong works to resist the advance of an enemy landing either above or below the town. It is estimated that £390,0 >0 would be sufl&cient for the purpose of erect- ing the permanent forts absolutely indispensable for the safety of the harbour and dockyard establishment. The position of these works should be chosen with a due regard to all possible conditions of attack. Wolfe Island, Abraham's Head, Snake Island^ Simcoe Island, and Garden Island, should be provided vith adequate forts to support the new scheme of defence. The Navy Yard should be removed, and the points now open to attack at once fortified. Belleville and Prescott both afford admirable ground for works of great importance : the former possesses a most advantageous site for tem- porary works and for a line of defence ; and the latter has such a commanding situation that a permanent work, with casemates, should be constructed there to guard what is, according to some of our engineers, one of the most valuable positions in the province. :J38 CANADA. ^ ^ n When we come to consider the actual state of Mon- treal, its importance, its liability to attack and the difficulty of offering an adequate defence, the best means to adopt are not very obvious. The best method of defence would doubtless be to construct an entrenched position, consisting of a parapet strengthened by re- doubts, to cover the approach from the south side. A tSte de pont should be built to cover the approaches now so open and exposed to attack. The enlargement of the Ottawa and Rideau canals is of obvious importance, and outlying works might be traced which could be used in case of invasion to hold the enemy in check j but still, as a precautionary mea- sure, it would be desirable to remove the more important stores at Montreal to Quebec and Ottawa, if it is in contemplation to make this valuable position subsidiary to any other place in Canada. Permanent works might be erected at St. John's, the Isle aux Noix and St. Helen's Island, where forts should be reconstructed on improved principles. But the most obvious measure, in the opinion of some engi- neers, the fortification of the hill over the city, and the erection of a Citadel upon it, which would render the mere occupation of the town below valueless to an enemy, is not approved of by more recent authori- ties. Gunboats on Lake St. Louis would prove most valua- ble in defending the works at Yaudrueuil. Quebec is however the key of Canada; and that key can be wrested from our own grasp at any moment by a determined enemy, unless the recommendations so strongly urged from time to time by all military authorities meet with consideration. The old enceinte DEFENCES OP QUEBEC. 239 te of Mon- k and the , the best est method entrenched aed by re- h side. A approaches lean canals s might be ion to hold mary mea- ( important if it is in , subsidiary 3t. John's, inhere forts jles. But some engi- y, and the render the ess to an authori- lost valua- i that key loment by Jations so I military i enceinte should be removed, and the French works restored, according to the suggestions of scientific oflficers, and of the ablest engineers we possess. An entrenched camp might be marked out to the west of the Citadel,, with a line of parapet and redoubts extending from the St. Lawrence to the St. Charles river. In order to cover the city from an attack on the south side, it would be necessary to occupy Point Levi, and to con- struct a strong entrenched line, with redoubts at such a distance as would prevent the enemy from coming near the river to shell the city and citadel. But it is evident that thev are 7iil ad rem, unless behind these works, and in support of them in the open, can be assembled a force of sufficient strer^^^h to prevent an investment, or to attack the inves..iug armies, and at the same time to hold front against them in the field. It is estimated that 150,000 men might hold the whole of the Canadas, East and West, against twice that number of the enemy. If we are to judge by what has passed, it is not probable the United States will be inclined or able for such an effort. Quebec might be held with 10,000 men against all comers. From 25,000 to 30,000 men would make Montreal safe. Kingston would require 20,000 men, and Ottawa would need 5000. The greater part, if not all of them, might be composed of militia, and volunteers trained to gun- nery and the nse of small arms. For the protection of the open country, and to meet the enemy in the field, an army of from 25,000 to 35,000 men would be needed from Lake Ontario to Quebec. The western district on Lake Erie could not be protected by less than 60,000 men. Thus, in case of a great invasion from the United 210 CANADA. States, Canada, with any assistance Great Britain could afford her, must have 150,000 men ready for ac- tion. What prospect there is of this, may best be learned from a consideration, not so much of the resources of Canada, as of the willingness of the people to use them. :M'j- '■4\ 'A eat Britain eady for ac- st be learned resources of ople to use CHAPTER XIV. Bapid Increase of Population — Mineral Wealth — Cereals — Imports and Exports — Climate — Agriculture — A Settler's Life — Reciprocity Treaty — Report of the Committee of the Ez&cutive Council — Mr. Qalt — Senator Douglas — A Zollverein — Terms of le Convention — Free Trade, and what is meant by it — Mr. Qalt's opinion on the subject — Canadian Imports and Exports. The rapid increase of population and settlements in Canada, and the growth of cities and towns, are among 'he great marvels of the last and of the present century, so rich in wonders of the kina. It is not too much to say, that any approximation to a similar rate of increase will make British North America a great power in the world. The direction of emigration has not been favourable. The Germans and the Irish have rather sought the United States, The emigrating powers of Scotland are rapidly decreasing, and the few English who emigrate prefer Australia, New Zealand, even the States of the Union, to a country which sufl'ers from the early neglect of the home government, the studied aspersions and misrepresentations of powerful agencies, and the ignorance of the poorer classes who seek to improve their condition by going forth in search of new homes. Mr. Sheridan Hogan, the writer of a prize essay on R 24^ CANADA. &^ Canada of no ordinary excellence, has devoted some of his pages to show that the growth of Canada in popula- tion has been overlooked in the scope of the wondering gaze which Europe has fixed on the development of the United States, although, in fact, the increase of Cana- dians in the land has been quite as astonishing as that of Americans south of the St. Lawrence. In 1800, he says the population of the United States was 5,305,925. In 1850 it was 20,250,000. The increase was therefore 300 percent, nearly. In 1811 the population of Upper Canada was 77,000, and in 1851 it was 952,000, an in- crease of over 1100 per cent, in forty years. Within the decade up to 1855 the rate of increase in the United States was 13*20 per cent. In Upper Canada it was 104 per cent, from 1841 to 1851. Upper Canada ex- hibited in forty years nearly four times the increase of the United States in fifty years. Even the population of Lower Canada increa-^ed 90 per cent, from 1829 to 1854. In a table in the same work it appears that the Irish in Lower Canada were more than double the English and Scotch together, and that they equalled both in Upper Canada. The writer says : — " The ' World's Progress,' published by Putnam, of New York, — a reliable authority, — gives tlie population and increase of the principal cities in the United States. Boston, between 1840 and 1850, increased forty-five per cent. Toronto, within the same period, increased ninety-five per cent. New York, the great emporium of the United States, and regarded as the most pros- perous city in the world, increased, in the same time, sixty-six per cent., about thirty less than Toronto. " The cities of St. Louis and Cincinnati, which have also experienced extraordinary prosperity, do not coui- ti RAPID INCREASE OF POPULATI' 243 )ted some of a in popula- e wondering ment of the se of Cana- ag as that of 800, he says I 5,305,925. '^as therefore on of Upper ^000, an in- Within the the United lada it was Canada ex- ; increase of 5 population •om 1829 to ars that the double the ley equalled Putnam, of 3 population ited States, d forty-five i, increased t emporium most pros- same time, ronto. which have lo not com- pare with Canada any better. In the th years pre- ceding 1850, the population of St. L increased fifteen times. In the thirty-three years jceding the same year, Toronto increased eighteen t'v s. And Cin- cinnati increased, in the same period g >en to St, Louis, but twelve times. '' Hamilton, a beautiful Canadian city at the head of Lake Ontario, and founded much more recently than Toronto, has also had almost unexampled prosperity. In 1836 its population was but 2,846, in 1854 it v. as upwards of 20,000. *' London, still farther west in Upper Canada, and a yet more recently-founded city than Hamilton, being surveyed as a wilderness little more than twenty-five years ago, has now upwards of ten thousand inhabitants. " The City of Ottawa, recently called after the magni- ficent river of that name, and upon which it is situated, has now above 10,000 inhabitants, although in 1830 it had but 140 houses, including mere sheds and shanties ; and the property upon which it is built was purchased, not many years before, for eighty pounds. " The Town of Bradford, situated between Hamilton and London, and whose site was an absolute wilder- ness twenty-five years ago, has now a population of 6,000, and has increased, in ten years, upwards of three hundred per cent.; and this without any other stimulant or cause save the business arising from the settlement of a fine country adjacent to it. " The Towns of Belleville, Cobourg, Woodstock, Gode- rich, St. Catherine's, Paris, Stratford, Port Hope, and Dundas, in Upper Canada, show similar prosperity, some of them having increased in a ratio even greater than that of Toronto, and all of them but so many n 2 wmsii' M 244 CANADA. evidences of the improvement of the country, and the growth of business and population around them. " Tliat some of the smaller towns in the United States have enjoyed equal prosperity I can readily believe, from the circumstance of a large population suddenly filling up the country contiguous to them. Buffalo and Chicago, too, as cities, are magnificent and unparalleled examples of the business, the energy, and the progress, of the United S<^atcs, But that Toronto should have quietly and uuc .o . a> > • • o o o a JZi CO a J >q HH eo «{ 4J t- o o O d o O o d O Hi ci 03 00 o u a, d o e» i>^ bo 3 C0 d 1 60 < • a )— 1 >» o • 35 3 o « C*H OQ 5 3 a •V o -s -i CO • CO "■^ 1 eo r-i d d < d ^ a d 1— t o eo -4 hi o o o 1-4 • a -«! 'i* 03 -^ t , ' ^j2 Jt- ^ CO U o o • \a J • o d u c4 a 1-^ w i eo i?3 t-H o eo CO Mean M< fa d t— t CO o S ^ o eo" d rt »-9 d O OO r-5 © OJ o o> '•f iCi -♦< W5 00 00 00 00 rH ^ 1-4 — < 2o0 CANADA. The Rev. Mr. Hope, who has been indefatigable in his eflforts to promote the interest of his adopted countiv, quotes the following passage from the Toronto Globe of September 21st, 1860, to show that people at home are much mistaken in considering Canada a region of frost and snow. *' The display of fruit, in quantity and quality, sur- passed what has been shown at any previous Exhibition. The results in this department were very satisfactory, proving that the climate of Canada admirably adapts it for the raising of many of the most valuable kinds of fruit. One of tlie principal exhibitors was Mr. Beadle of St. Catharine's nurseries. On one side of the central stand in the Crystal Palace, he had 115 plates of apples, pears, peaches, &c., and 30 jars of cherries, currants, raspberries, blackberries, &c. Mr. Beadle exhibited ten varieties of peaches grown in the open air. Several of these varieties were of very large dimensions, and were much admired for the delicate richness of their tints. He exhibited also numerous varieties of apples; 41 in one collection of three of each sort, and 20 in another collection of six of each sort. He had also a large show of pears, comprising a large number of varieties. Among the varieties of open-air grapes shown by IMr. Beadle, were the Blood- blacks, the Delaware, the Diana, the Northern Musca- dine, the Perkins, Sage's Mammoth, and the "Wild Pox.'' In 1828, when the whole population of Upper Canada amounted to 185,500 inhabitants, the number of acres under agricultural improvement was 570,000, or about 3-fV for each individual; in 1851 the average for each inhabitant was very nearly four acres. The PKOGRESS OP CULTIVATION. 251 ifatigable in his adopted the Toronto it people at ; Canada a :]uality, sur- Exhibition. satisfactory, dy adapts it .ble kinds of Mr. Beadle side of the I 115 plates of cherries, Mr. Beadle in the open very large the delicate numerous of three of six of each omprising a varieties of the Blood- lern Musca- the Wild of Upper the number ras 570,000, the average acres. The comparative progress of Upper and Lower Canada, in bringing the forest-clad wilderness into cultivation, may be inferred from the following table : — LOWER CANADA. UPPER CANADA. Year. 1831 1844 1851 No. acres cultivated. 2,065,913 2,802,317 3,605,376 No. acres cultivated 818,432 2,166,101 3,695,763 • Hence, in a period of twenty years. Lower Canada in- creased her cultivated acres by '75, and Upper Canada by 3*5. Before proceeding to describe in detail the progress of agriculture in Upper Canada, it will be advisable to glance at the efforts made by societies and the Government of the Province to elevate the condition of husbandry in all its departments, and to induce the people at large to join hand in hand in the march of improvement. The Board of Agriculture for Lower Canada took decisive steps during the year 1862 to secure *ae proper disbursements of the provincial grant, and to d8\ote liberal awards of public money to the pro- motion of agricultural industry in all its important branches. The Lower Canadian Provincial Shows had previously partaken more of the character of an agricultural festival than of a meeting for the pur- pose of securing the progress of the Science and Art of Agriculture by fair and open competitiou and peace- ful rivalry. In this respect they diflfered materially from the same annual expositions in Upper Canada, where astonishing advances in the proper direction had been made. The Board determined to establish an Agricultural Museum, and to give assistance to 252 CANADA. county societies towards the importation of improved breeds of horses, cattle and sheep. The Board is willing to advance to any society funds for the purchase of ctock, retaining one-third of the annual govern- ment allowance for three successive years to discharge the debt thus incurred. If this new spirit of enter- prise should continue, the progress of agriculture in Lower Canada will be much {iccelerated. Although it must be acknowledged that in the face of many diffi- culties, national prejudices, and peculiarities of character, a very marked improvement has taken place in many departments of husbandry, and in many parts of the Lower Province, much, very much, remains to be done. The influence exercised by the Agricultural School at St. Anne is already favourably folt, and this establishment appears likely to work a beneficial change in Lower Canadian husbandry. Tiie details of its operations show its great utility. The indirect assistance given by the Imperial Govern- ment to Agricdlture in Upper Canada dates from a much earlier period than the encouragement given to Agricultural Societies by the Provincial Government ; for we find among the donations of George III. to the U. E. Loyalists the old English plough. It consisted of a small piece of iron fixed to the coulter, having the shape of the letter L, the shank of which went through the wooden beam, the foot forming the point, which was sharpened for use. One handle, and a plank split from a curved piece of timber, which did the duty of a mold-board, completed the rude imjlement. At that time the traces and leading lines were made of the bark of the elm or bass-wood, which was manufactured by the eai'ly settlers into a strong rope. About the Df improved te Board is he purchase ual govern- to discharge it of cnter- riculture in Although it ' many diffi- of character, ice in many aarts of the L lains to be Agricultural ily felt, and a beneficial The details rial Govern- ates from a mt given to rovcrnment ; III. to the ; consisted of ', having the cut through point, which I plank split le duty of a it. At that made of the anufactured About the ' AGRICULTUKE. 253 year 1808 the '* hog-plough " was imported from the Unite 1 States; and in 1815 a plough with a cast iron share and mold-board, all iii one piece, was o^e of the first implements, requiring more than an ordinary degree of mechanical skill, Avhich was injinufacturcd in the province. Tlie seeds of improvement were then sown, and while in the address of the President at the Ffontenac Cattle Show in 1833, we observe atten- tion called to the necessity for further improvement in the ploughs common throughout the country, we witness, in 1855, splendid fruit at the Paris Exhibition. In a notice of the trial of ploughs at Trappos, the Jourval (VAgricuUitre Pratiqite makes the following reference to a Canadian plough : " The ploughing tests were brought to a close by a trial of two ploughs equally remarkable — to wit, the plough of Ilansome and Sims, of Suffolk, England, and that of Bingham, of Norwich, Upper Canada. The first is of wood and iron, li. all the English ploughs, and the results which it produced secined most satisfactory, but it appeared to require a little more draught than the Howard plough. Bingham's plough very much resembles the English plough ; it is very fine and light in its build ; the handles are longer than ordiuciry, which makes the plough much more easy to manage. The opinion of the French labourers and workmen who were there, appeared, on the whole, very favourable to this plough." The following extracts from Mr. Hogan's book arc as truthful as they are eloquent : — " Great as has been the prosperity of America, and of the settlements which mark the magnificent country just described, yet nature has not been wooed in them without trials, nor have her treasures been won without 251 • CANADA. m a striggle wovthy of tlieir wor h. Those who have irten in the liabit of passing earli/ cleariufjs in Upper Canada roust have been struck witli the cheerless and lonely, even desolate appearance f the first settler's little log hut. In the midst of a dense forest, and with a 'patch of clearing' scarce!'^ large enough to let the sun shine in upon him, he looks not unlike a person struggling for existence on a single plank in the middle of an ocean. For weeks, often for months, he sees not the face of a stranger. The same still, and wild, and boundless forest every morning rises up to his view ; and his only hope against its shutting him in for life rests in the axe upon his shoulder. A few blades of com, peeping up betwen stumps whose very roots interlace, they are so close together, are his sole safe- guards against want ; whilst the few potato plants, in little far-between ' hills/ and which struggle for exist- ence against the briar bush and luxuriant underwood, are to form the seeds of his future plenty. Tall pine trees, girdled and blackened by the fires, stand out aa grim monuments of the prevailing loneliness, whilst the forest itself, like an immense w;\^1 round a fortress, seems to say to the settler, — '^ • can poverty ever expect to escape from such a priso .>.>use.' " That little clearing — for I describe a reality — which to others might afford such slender guarantee for bare subsistence, was nevertheless a source of bright and cheering dreams to that lonely settler. He looked at it, and instead of thinking of its littleness, it was the foundation of great hopes of a large farm and rich cornfields to him. And this very dream, or poetry, or what you will, cheered him at his lonely toil, and made \ur>. contented with his rude fire-side. The A SETTLERS LIFE. 255 J who liave 8 in Upper leerless and ittler'a little and with a I to let the te a person the middle he sees not id wild, and his view ; 1 in for life w blades of very roots is sole safe- o plants, in e for exist- iinderwood, Tall pine tand out ais s, whilst the a fortress, overty ever lity — which tee for bare bright and He looked less, it was pm and rich r poetry, or y toil, and -side. The bhides of corn, which you might regard as convey- ing but a tantalising idea of human comforts, were associated by him with large stacks and full granaries ; and the very thought nerved his arm, and made him happy. " Seven years afterwards I passed that same settler's cottage— it was in the valley of the Grand River in Upper Canada, not far from the present village of Caledonia. The little log hut was used as a back kitchen to a neat two story frame house, painted white. A large barn stood near by, with stock of '^very descrip- tion in its yard. The stumps, round which the blades of corn, when I last saw the place, had so much diffi- culty in springing up, had nearly all disappeared. Luxuriant Indian corn had sole possession of the place where the potatoes had so hard a struggle against the briar bushes and the underwood. The forest — dense, impenetrable though it seemed — had been pushed far back by the energetic arm of man. A garden, bright Avith flowers, and enclosed in a neat picket fence, fronted the house ; a young orchard spread out in rear. I met a farmer as I was quitting the scene, returning from church with his wife and familv. It was on a Sunday, and there was nothing in their appearance, save perhaps a healthy brown colour in their faces, to distinguish them from persons of wealth in cities. The waggon they were in, their horses, harness, dresses, everythip<^ about them, in short, indicated comfort and easy circumstances. I enquired of the man — who was the owner of the property I have just been describing? * It is mine, sir/ he replied ; ' I settled on it nine years ago, and have, thank God, had tolerable success.* "There is, perhaps, no class in the world who live 256 CANADA. better — I mean who have a greater abundance of the comforts of life — than men having cleared farms, and who know how to make a proper use of them, in Upper Canada. The imports of the country show that they dress not only well, but in many things expensively. You go into a church or meeting-house in any part of the province which has been settled for fifteen or twenty years, and you are struck at once with the fabrics, as well as the style of the dresses worn by both sexes, but especially by the young. The same shawls, and bonnets, and gowns which you see in cities, are worn by the women, whilst the coats of the men are undistinguishable from those worn by professional men and merchants in towns. A circumstimce which I witnessed some years ago, in travelling from Simcoe to Brantford — two towns in the interior of the province — will serve to convev an idea of the taste as well as the means of enjoyment of these people. At an ordinary Methodist meeting-house, in thp centre of a rural settlement, iid ten miles from a village or town, there were twenty-three pleasure carriages, double and single, standing in waiting. The occasion was a quarterly meeting, and these were the conveyances of tlie farmers who came to art-md it. Yet twenty years before, and this was a wilderness ; twenty years before, and many of these people were working as labourers, and were not possessed of a pair of oxen ; twenty years before, and these tilings exceeded even their brightest dreams of pros];) city. "The settler who nobly pushes back the giant wilderness, and hc.vs out for himself a home upon the conquered territory, has necessarily but a bony hand and a rough visage to present to advancing civilisation. THE CANADIAN 8KTTLKU. !57 dance of the d farms, and sm, in Upper )w that they expensively. any part of >r fifteen or ice with the rorn by both same shawls^ in cities, are the men are essional men nee which I >m Simcoe to le province — ,s well as the : an ordinary J of a rurjil r town, there e and single, a quarterly f the farmers s before, and re, and many rs, and were years before, htest dreams k the giant me upon the a bony hand 5 civilisation. His children, too, are timid, and M'ild, and uncouth. But a stranger comes in ; buys the little improvement on the next lot to him ; has cliildren who are educated, and a wife with refined tastes, — for such people mark, in greater or less numbers, every settlement in Upper Canada. The necessities of the new comer soon bring about an acquaintance with the old pioneer. Their families meet — timid and awkward enough at first, perhaps; but chiUlren know not the conventionalities of society, and, happily, are governed by their innocence in their friendships. So they play together, go to school in company; and thus, imperceptibly to them- selves, are the tastes and manners of the educated im- parted to the rude, and the energy and fortitude of the latter are infused into their more effeminate com- panions. Manly but ill-tutored success is thus taught how to enjoy its gains, Avhilst respectable poverty is instructed how to better its condition. That pride occasionally puts itself to inconvenience to prevent these pleasant results, my experience of Canada forces me to admit ; and that the jealousy and vanity of mere success sometimes views with unkindness the manner and habit of reduced respectability — never perhaps more exacting than when it is poorest — I must also acknowledge. But that the great law of progress, and the influence of free institutions, break down these exceptional feelings and prejudices, is patent to every close observer of Canadian society. Wiiere the edu- cated and refined undergo the changes incident to laborious occupations — for the constant use of the axe and the plough alters men's feelings as well as their appearances, — and where rude industry is also changed by the success which gives it the benefit of education, '' 25S CANADA. it is impossible for the two classes not to meet. As the one goes down — at least in its occupations, — it meets the other coming up by reason of its successes, and both eventually occupy the same pedestal. I have seen this social problem worked out over and over again in Upper Canada, and have never hnown the result different. Pride, in America, must 'stoop to con- quer;' rude industry rises always. " The manner of living of the Upper Canadian fanner may be summed up in few words. He has plenty, and he enjoys it. The native Canadians almost universally, and a large proportion of the old country people, sit at the same table with their servants or labourers. They eat meat twice, and many of them thrice a day : it being apparently more a matter of taste than of economy as to the number of times. Pork is what they chiefly consume. There being a great abundance of fruit, scarcely a cleared farm is without an orchard ; and it is to be found preserved in various ways on every farmer's table. Milk is in great abundance, even in the early settler's houses, for where there is little pastu? there are sure to be large woods, and ' brouse,' or the tops ,.f the branches of trees, supply the place of hay. The sweetest bread I have eaten in America I have eaten in the farmers' houses of Upper Canada. They usually grind the ' shorts ' with the flour for home consumption, and as their wheat is among the finest in the world, the bread is at once wholesome and exceedingly delicious. Were I asked what is the characteristic of Canadian farmers, I would unhesi- tatingly answer ' Plenty ! ' " et. As the \, — it meets ;cesses, and I have seen fer again in the result lop to con- idian farmer plenty, and universally, eople, sit at rers. They 3 a day : it te than of rk is Tvhat abundance m orchard; lys on every ce, even in 3re is little id ' brouse,' the place of , America I )er Canada, le flour for among the :)lesome and hat is the uld unhesi- CHAPTER XV. Reciprocal Rights — American Ideas of Reciprocity — The Ad Yalorom System — Commercial Improvements — Trade with America— The Ottawa Route — The Saskatchewan — Fertility of the Country — Water Communication — The Maritime Provinces — Area and Population. The absaiiec of a winter port is an evil to Canada, for which no energy and no advantages can compensate. Although Halifax has a magnificent harbour, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia ofl'er but small facilities for winter navigation ; and the day seems distant when the great railroad of which so much has been spoken and written shall open the communication between England and the remotest portions of the vast empire which reaches from the Atlantic to the Pacific. The position of Canada threw her into close relations with the United States, and the result of her geogra- phical condition was the Reciprocity Treaty, which has caused so much discussion and discontent on both sides of the St. Lawrence, and which the Government of the Federal States has now given notice to terminate. In March, 1862, the report of the Committee of the Executive Council, to which an able paper of Mr. Gait, then Finance Minister, had been referred, advised that the views and suggestions therein expressed by Mr. Gait should be adopted, and that report was approved by Lord Monck. Mr. Gulfs Report was founded on a reference made to him of the report of 8» 200 CANADA. I the Committee on Commerce of the House of Tlepre- sentativcs at Washington respeeting the Reciprocity Treaty, and of a memorial from tlie Chamber of Com- merce of Minnesota. Tlie House of Representatives reported in favour of a system resembling that of the "Zollvcrein" as the only means of securing the benefits of reciprocal trade, and recommended as desirable a uniform system of lighthouses, copyrights, postage, patents, telegraphs, •weights and measures, and coinage. This was a favourite scheme of the late Senator Douglas; and if the American Oovcrnment had ex- hibited any desire to diminish the rigours of Morrill Tariffs and of State protective enactments, we mi;]^ht applaud the liberality of their views and the noble candour of their conclusions. Thc^ believed that " free commercial intercourse between the United States and the British North-American Provinces, developing the natural, geographical, and other advantages of each for the good of all, is conducive to Jhe pr(;sent interests of each, and is the proper basis of our intercourse for all time to come " — sentiments certainly noble, if somewhat vaguely expressed. We will see presently how Mr. Gait deals with the practical rendering of them by the Federal Government . The Reciprocity Treaty, ne- gotiated between Lord Elgin and Mr. Marcey in June, 1854, was entered into to avoid further mis- understanding in regard to the extent of the right of fishing on the coasts of British North America, and to regulate the commerce and navigation between the respective territories and people in such a manner as to render the same reciprocally beneficial and satis- factory. ; of Rcprc- Rcciprocity >cr of Com- n favour of 5iii" as the rocal trade, system of telegraphs, ite Senator lit had ex- j of Morrill , we might 1 the noble I that " free [ States and '^eloping the } of eaeh for interests of ourse for all if somewh.'it y how Mr. of them bv Treaty, ne- Marcey in urther mis- the right of jrica, and to letween the \ manner as and satis- RECIPROCAL RIGHTS. 261 The Convention secured to Araorican fishermen the liberty of taking, curing, and drying fish on the British North-American coast generally ; tlie Treaty extended to them the liberty to take fish of every kind (except shell- fish) along the coast of Canada, New Brunswick, Prince Edward's Island, &c., with permission to land, to dry nets, and cure lish, Avithout any restrictions as to dis- tance from shore — reserving only the right of private property and the salmon and shad-fishings in the rivers ; and the same rights were conceded to British subjects on the eastern sea-coasts of the United States north of the SOth parallel of latitude. It provided that the following articles should be admitted duty-free reciprocally : — Grain, flour and breadstufts, animals, fresh and salt meat, cotton seed and vegetables, fruit, fish, poultry, hides and skins, butter, cheese, tallow, lard, horns, manure, ores, coal, stone, slate, pitch, tur- pentine, timber and lumber, plants, firs, gypsum, grind- stones, dye-stuffs, flax, rags, and unmanufactured tobacco. It gave to Americans the right to navigate the St. Lawrence and the Canadian canals, subject to the tolls, and it gave to British subjects the right to navigate Lake Michigan; but it reserved to the British Government the right of suspending, on due notice, the privileges of Canadian navigation, in which event the right of British subjects to navigate Lake Michigan should also^ cease and determine, and tlie United States should have the right of suspending the free import and OKport of the articles specified. But here, it will be observed, there was a one dded reciprocity. The Americans received, absolutely, the right of using all the canals in Canada from the British Government; the Government of the United States conferred no ,.*:». "T^^yi^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1^ 12.8 u liii 2.5 2.2 i ^ IIIIIM 1.8 1.25 lA. ||l.6 ^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ \ iV :\ \ V M cF 6^ .> V 262 CANADA. m \ I'^t.. ' K'f such privilege reciprocally on British subjects. All they did — perhaps all they could do in consonance with the doctrine of States Rights they are so busily engaged at present in desf-^oying — was to engage to urge on the State Governments to secure to the sub- jects of Her Britannic Majesty the use of the several ship-canals on terras of equality with the inhabitants of the United States. It was also provided that '^ Ame- rican lumber floated down to St. John and shipped to the United States from New Brunswick should be free of duty.'^ This treaty was to remain in force for ten years from the date at which it came into operation, and further until the expiration of twelve months after either of the contracting parties gave notice to the other of its wish to terminate the same — each of them being at liberty to give notice at the end of the ten years, or at any time afterwards. This treaty expired on the 11th September, 1804, since which time the United States and Great Britain have been free to give notice of the termination of its provisions, to take effect in twelve months after the date of the notice. Of this power, as already stated, the United States Government has availed itself. An exception to the operation of the treaty is made in the ca^e of New- foundland, in respect to which its provisions hold good till December 12th, 1865. The State of New York, by its Legislature, urged Congress to protect the United States from what they denounced as an " unequal and unjust system of commerce." They asserted that nearly all the articles which Canada has to sell are admitted into the United States free of duty, whilst heavy duties are imposed on many articles of c American manufacture, with the intention of excluding jects. All consonance e so busily engage to the sub- the several abitants of hat "Ame- shipped to )uld be free rce for ten 1 operation, lonths after >tice to the ch of them of the ten ;aty expired h time the free to give ms, to take the notice, lited States tion to the ze of New- s hold good )W York, by the United L "unequal fv asserted has to sell e of duty, articles of f excluding AMERICAN IDEAS OF RECIPROCITY. 263 them from the Canadian market; and that discrimi- nating tolls and duties, in favour of an isolating and exclusive policy against American merchants and for- warders, to destroy the effect of the treaty and in opposition to its spirit, have been adopted by Canada ; and on these grounds they demanded a change in the system of commerce now existing, to protect the inte- rests of the United States in the manner intended bv the treaty. The Canadian Minister, in reply, observed that the treaty made no mention whatever of the matters com- plained of, and, in a very lucid argument, charges against the Legislature of the United States the very same grounds of complaint as the Committee alleged against Canada. No accusation of an infraction of the treaty is made, and therefore the subjects treated of in the Report affect the commercial relations and not the good faith of the contracting parties. 1'ho Committee accuse Canada of violating the spirit and intent of the treaty, by an increase of duties on manu- factured articles, by a change in the mode of levying duties, and by abolishing tolls on the St. Lawrence canals and river; but Mr. Gait contends that the treaty had nothing to do with manufactures, but was expressly limited to the growth and produce of the two countries mentioned in the schedule. Those arti- cles not enumerated in it are necessarily excluded from its operations, and must be made the subject of special legislation between the two States before any act of either respecting the mode of their admission can be made ground of remonstrance. As a proof of the narrow spirit in which these fine declaimers about " liberty of commerce and reciprocity 264 CANADA. \m of trading advantages " have dealt with the treaty, it may be mentioned that they imposed duties on planks in part planed, tongued, or grooved, and. on flour ground in Canada from American wheat, and on lumber made in Canada out of American logs. The Canadian Government, however, have maintained, both against the Americans and the mother country, their right to decide for themselves both as to the mode and the extent to which taxation should be imposed. Declamations against a policy of Protection come in- deed with a bad grace from the United States; and Mr. Gait, in suppressed sarcasm aud irony, shows that their doctrine of Free Trade with Canada really means an exclusive protection for themselves against the manufactures of Great Britain. If the gentlemen who composed the elaborate Report, bristling all over with generous sentiments and with the expression of the most enlightened and liberal doc- trines, could blush, they might well perform that interesting operation when reading Mr. Gait's reply. Canada admits the registration of foreign vessels without charge ; the United States do not. Canada has sought admission to the great lakes for coasters ; the United States refuse. Canada allows American vessels to pass free through her canals j not a Canadian vessel is allowed, even on payment of toll, to enter an American canal. The promise in the treaty, that the Government of Washington would urge on the States* the concession of a right to navigate their canals on equal terms with American subjects, has not been kept ; at least, there is no trace of any effort having been made to induce the State Legislatures to relax their present extreme policy, which is in strong contrast with the professions ! rCi!: THE AD VALOREM SYSTEM. 265 e treaty, it 3 on planks d on flour c, and on logs. The ained, both intry, their the mode e imposed. 1 come in- tates ; and shows that ally means gainst the ite Report, id with the beral doc- •form that alt's reply, els without has sought he United els to pass vessel is American overnment concession erms with 3ast, there 1 to induce it extreme )rofessions of their Committee-men. Canada permits foreign goods bought in the United States to be imported on the payment of duty on the original invoice ; the United States will not permit similar purchases to be made in Canada. Tea imported from Canada is weighted with duty of ten per cent., while the duties under the Canadian tariff arc very much lower than those levied in America. The permission to pass goods under bond through the States conferred an obvious advantage on American railroads; but, indeed, the Committee were fain to admit that the United States had not established a fair reciprocity, inasmuch as they recommend that reciprocity should be made complete. Duties have been imposed in the United States for purposes of Protection, and they can scarcely bring accusations against Canada until they have established a system of duties as low as those of Canada. The ad valorem system of Canada, against which the Committee protest, is the system of the United States ; for tea and sugar there is a discriminating duty in favour of American vessels of twenty per cent. Duty is levied in Canada solely for purposes of revenue : and though this policy, wh: jh has led the late Minister and his predecessors to reduce tolls and customs-dues to a minimum, has alarr\ed the canal and ship-owners and railway-directors of Tncw York, it is viewed with appro- bation by the great Western States. " It is," says Mr. Gait, '* a singular charge to make of discrimination on our part against them, that we do not permit one section of our public works to be used for purposes exclusively beneficial to them, when they absolutely, and contrary to the eugagements of the treaty, debar any Canadian vessel from entering their 26Q CANADA. 1 I 1 : waters, if we exceft Lake Michigan, specially men- tioned in the treaty. Surely Canada does enough for them when she places them precisely on the same footing as she does her own vessels ; and it is a novel doctrine that because the whole St. Lawrence is made free, therefore an injury is done to the New York route. The remedy is simple, and in their own hands : let them do as Canada has done — repeal the tolls on their canals, and admit Canadian vessels to ply upon them — and then the desired state of ' fair competition' will have arisen. .But the Committee must have formed but a low estimate of the intelligence of their own people in the West, when they make it a subject of complaint against Canada that she has opened the St. Lawrence freely to their trade. The undersigned apprehends that the inhabitants of those great States will be much more likely to demand from their own Government an equitable application of their own customs-laws, so as to permit them to import direct via the St. Lawrence, and to buy in the Canadian market, rather than to join with the Committee in requiring a return to a system by which the entire West has hitherto been held in vassalage to the State of New York." Mr. Gait argues that an increase of customs-duties does not, necessarily, injuriously affect foreign trade within certain limits, and that those limits have not been exceeded in Canada. Formerly the cost of British goods in Canada was much enhanced, owing to natural causes, whilst Canadian producers obtained a mini- mum price for their exports. The duty was then generally 2^ per cent., but the price was enormous ; and the Canadian suffered, pro tanto, in his means to purchase them. Suppose the duties, increased five per COMMERCIAL IMPROVEMENTS. 207 iciaily men- enough for a the same it is a novel nee is made York route, is : let them ;heir canals, 1 — and then have arisen, but a low jople in the aint against rence freely ds that the much more rnment an •laws, so as . Lawrence, than to join ;o a system Jen held in toms-duties reign trade ;s have not it of British * to natural ed a mini- was then enormous ; s means to sed five per cent., were to produce a reduction of ten per cent, on other charges, "the benefit," says Mr. Gait, "would accrue equally to the British manufacturer and to the consumer ; the consumer would pay five per cent, more to the Government, but ten per cent, less to the mer- chant and forwarder." As Mr. Gait considers the principle of Canadian finance and customs to be misap- prehended in England as well as in the United States, it may be as well to give his own words : — " The Government has increased the duties for the purpose of enabling them to meet the interest on the public works necessary to reduce all the various charges upon the imports and exports of the country. Light- houses have been built, and steamships subsidised, to reduce the charges for freight and insurance; the St. Lawrence has been deepened, and the canals con- structed, to reduce the cost of inland navigation to a minimum ; railways have been assisted, to give speed, safety, and permanency to trade interrupted by the severity of winter. All these improvements have been undertaken with the twofold object of diminishing the cost to the consumer of what he imports, and of in- creasing the net result of the labour of the country when finally realised in Great Britain. These great improvements could not be effected without large out- lays ; and the burthen necessarily had to be put either through direct taxation, or by customs-duties on the goods imported, or upon the trade by excessive tolls corresponding with the rates previously charged. Direct taxation was the medium employed, through the local municipalities, for the construction of all minor local works — roads, court-houses and gaols, education, and the vast variety of objects required in a newly-settled Il 2CS CANADA. country ; and this source of taxation has thus been used to the full extent which is believed practicable without producing serious discontent. No one can, for a moment, argue that, in an enlightened age, any Government could adopt such a clumsy mode of raising money as to maintain excessive rates of tolls ; nor would it have attained the object, as American chan- nels of trade were created simultaneously, that would then have defied competition. The only eficct, there- fore, of attempting such course would have been to give the United States the complete control of our markets, and virtually to exclude British goods. The only other course was therefore adopted, and the pro- ducer has been required to pay, through increased customs-duties, for the vastly greater deductions he secured through the improvements referred to. What, then, has been the result to the British manufacturer ? His goods are, it is true, in many cases subjected to 20 per cent, instead of 2| per cent., but the cost to the consumer has been diminished in a very much greater degree; and the aggregate of cost, original price, duty, freight, and charges are now very much less than when the duty was 2^ per cent., and conse- quently the legitimate protection to the home-manufac- turer is to this extent diminished. Nor is this all : the interest of the British manufacturer is not merely that he shall be able to lay down his goods at the least cost to the consumer, but equally is he interested in the ability of the consumer to buy. Now, this latter point is attained precisely through the same means which have cheapened the goods. The produce of Canada is now increased in value exactly in proportion to the saving on the cost of delivering it in the market of consumption. i( TRADE WITH AMEKICA. 2()D ; thus been practicable o one can, cd age, any le of raising tolls ; nor rican chan- that would ffcct, there- Lve been to Ltrol of our ;oods. The id the pro- increased [actions he to. What, nufacturer ? ubjected to the cost to very much st, original very much and conse- le-manufac- :his all : the nerely that e least cost sted in the latter point which have lada is now le saving on nsuraption. " If the aggregate of cost to the consumer rem.aned the same now as it was before the era of canals and railroads in Canada, what possible difference would it make to the British manufacturers whether the excess over the cost in Great Britain were paid to the Govern- ment or to mcrcliants and forwarders? It would certainly not in any Avay affect the question of the protection to home-manufacturers : but when it can be clearly shown that by the action of the Govern- ment, in raising funds through increased customs- duties, the cost to the consumer is now verv much less, upon what ground can the British manufacturer complain that these duties have been restrictive on his trade ? " The undersigned might truly point to the rapid increase in the population and wealth of Canada, arising from its policy of improvement, whereby its ability of consumption has been so largely increased. He might also show that these improvements have, in a great degree, .Iso tended to the rapid advance of the Western States, and to their increased ability to pur- chase British goods. He might point to the fact that the grain supplied from the Western States and Canada keeps down prices in Great Britain, and there- fore enables the British manufacturer to produce still cheaper. But he prefers resting his case, as to the propriety of imposing increased customs-duties, solely on the one point, that through that increase the cost of British manufactured goods, including duty, has been reduced to the Canadian consumer, and that con- sequently the increase has in its results, viewing the whole trade, tended to an augmentation of the market for British goods." 270 CANADA. '■ ( In a tabular stutcnicut it is shown tliat the avernjrc amount of duty levied on imports from the United States in 18G1 is the same as the average of the pre- vious twelve years, that the variations have been very slight, and that the rate per cent, was less than lialf what it liad been a few years before, whilst American trade has been steadily increasing. Under the ope- ration of the treaty, the imports from the United States, in ISGl, were nearly trebled, and the exports from Canada to the United States were nearly quadrupled ; the whole amount of trade in 1851 being, in round numbers, 12,500,000 dollars, which was increased to 24,000,000 dollars in 1854, and to 35,500,000 dollars in 1861. These advantages may be still further extended without injury to either nation or to the just claims of Great Britain to an equality in the Canadian market ; and Mr. Gait professed himself quite ready for the abolition of the coasting law3 on inland waters — of all discrimination as to nationality in respect of vessels — the free import of wooden wares, agricultural imple- ments, machinery, and books — the assimilation of the patent-laws : but he totally opposes the project of aZoll- verein, on the ground that it would be inconsistent with the maintenance of connexion with Great Britain, inasmuch as Canada would be called upon to tax goods of British manufacture, while she admitted those of the United States free. " Great Britain is,'' he observes, " the market for Canadian produce to a far greater extent than the United States." The United States would necessarily impose her views on the Zollverein, and '' the result would be," says Mr. Gait, "a tariff not, as now, based on the simple wants of Canada, but upon those THE OTTAWA KOUTE. 271 the average the United of the pre- I been very i than half i American r the ope- ited States, ports from uadrupled ; in round creased to ) dollars in r extended t claims of a market ; iy for the waters — of of vessels iral imple- ion of the tof aZoll- iconsistent at Britain, tax goods lose of the larket for than the lecessarily ihe result as now, pon those of a country engaged in a colossal war." It must be regretted, notwithstanding Mr. Gait's arguments, that the Canadian tariff' is so high ; but if she be called upon to incur a fresh debt for the purposes of defence, it is more likely that it will be increased rather than diminished. In connection with the relations of Canada and the West to the United States, the opening of new water-ways and roads becomes of paramount interest and importance. In March, 18G3, a Select Committee was appointed by the Legislative Assembly to investigate the subject of a navigable line between Montreal and Lake Huron, by the Ottawa and Matawan Rivers, Lake Nipissing, and French River. That Committee reported that there were no engineering difficulties to interfere with the opening of this route for vessels of every class up to the draught of twelve feet, and that it would shorten the line to Chicago 350 miles, the exact dif- ference in favour of the Ottawa communication from Montreal to Mackinaw being G8 miles. In point of time there would be a reduction of 47 hours. The trade between the Western States and the sea has increased to such an extent during the last four years, that 120,000,000 of bushels of wheat and grain stood in need of transport, according to the last calculation ; and even with its present communications, Montreal is second only to New York as a grain-exporting port, the quantity shipped last year from it being over 15,000,000 of bushels. The Ottawa route would ac- tually be the shortest line of communication between the ports on Lake Michigan and New York itself by 150 miles, when the Champlain Canal shall have been made, and the Northern Canal enlarged. 7.1 CANADA. The tract throuj;li uhicli the proposed linn would pass, exeeediijfj; in area the mIioIc of tlie live New Enghind States, is covered with a wealtli of timber sur- passinji; belief; and the forestless prairies would fumisli n market valuable as gold itself to the lumberer. Vessels j^oinj? down and dischargiuj^ their car{]joes would return with car{:joes of timber, the demarul for which in the West is so j,'reat, that the city of Chicago consumes alone 100,000/. worth in the year. Canadian pines wouhl be in demand to construct the new cities winch are rising in the Prairie State, and to keep the Ijcarth fires alight through their rigid winters. The effect of such a line in developing local traffic, agricul- tural improvement, commercial enterprise, and the spread of civilisation, cannot be over-esti.nated. In reference to the military advantages to be derived from its construc- tion, the Committee makes but a meagre reference ; but it is obvious that by securing such a route, far removed from a foreign frontier, between the sea and the western lakes, the means of defence and of transport in war would be very much strengthened and improved. The St. Lawrence canals can be destroyed, as Mr. Chamley observes, by the Americans, without their being obliged to land a m^'n in Canada; whilst by the Ottawa route gunboats could proceed from the St. Lawrence to Lake Huron in less time than they would now require to get to Lake Erie. It is not to be over- looked, however, that the higher latitudes through which the canal would run, expose the waters to a longer frost and necessary cessation of traffic. The advantages of the route to New York and to other North-Eastern States of America, can only be gained by completing the proposed Cooknawoogo Canal, between lino would ic live New timber sur- ould i'lirnisli c lura})ercr. icir earji^oes dcmarul for ■ of Chicajifo , Canadian ic new cities to keep the nters. The fFic, agricul- id the spread reference to ts construc- erence; but far removed the western port in war 'oved. ^ed, as Mr. thout their whilst by rom the St. they would to be over- es through raters to a raffic. The id to other e gained by al, between TilE SASKATCHEWAN. 27 IJ the St. Lawrence and Lake Champlain, and it is doubtful whether the jealousy of the Americans would not pre- vent their furthering a project which would confer great benefits on tiie Provinces, even though their refusing to do so might deprive them of certain advan- tages. This line would, in fact, give us or the Cana- dians an admirable interior communication, and at the same time confer military, political, and commercial benefits on the Provinces, the extent of which cannot be easily foreseen. Mr. Gait admits that there may be jealousies, though he protests there should not be, and calls to mind the opposition of Mohawk Dutchmen, the Frenchmen of Detroit, and others, to the Erie Canal. If the plans for improving the communications which have been suggested should ever be developed, the valley of Red River would be reached without much difficulty, and land as good as that in the unsettled portions of Iowa and Minnesota would be opened to the British emigrant. In the valleys of the Saskatchewan and Assiniboine, Canada possesses a vast north-west of her own, enjoying a mild climate, which contains, according to one of the witnesses whose opinion is cited by the Committee, 500,000 square miles of fertile land, capable of sustain- ing a population of nearly 30,000,000 of people. It has been ascertained beyond doubt, that the tract between the North and South Saskatchewan on the east is exceedingly fertile, and that no intense cold prevails throughout an enormous region of rich prairies on cre- taceous and tertiary deposits. It is scarcely possible for us to conceive what an enormous expanse of fertile land lies to the east of the Rocky Mountains, about 274 CANADA. the sources of those rivers ; but there are too many wituesses of unmistakeable veracity to render us scep- tical concerning the beauty and capabilities of these regions. Could the poor emigrant be carried lo these fertile districts, instead of sinking into the rowdyism of American cities, or beating down the rate of wages by cop^ petition, he would find at least a comfortable sub- sistence, even if he were unable at once to obtain a profitable market for liis labours. Father de Sraet, the missionary, a man whose name is a tower of strength and faith, describes a district which makes us wonder that poverty should ever be known in Europe, and corroborates the glowing picture of Sir George Simpson: — a soil and climate better suited for agriculture than that of Toronto — a region abound- ing in game of all kinds, rivers and lakes swjirming with fish, plains covered with buffaloes — seams of coal — delicious wild fruits — forests of pine, cypress, poplar, and aspen. Even at Edmonton, potatoes, wheat and barley, corn and beans, are produced in abundance. " Are these vast and innumerable fields of hay," asks Father de Smet, " for ev^r destined to be consumed by fire, or perish in wintry snows ? How long shall these superb forests be the haunts of wild beasts ? Are these abundant mines of coal, lead, sulphur, iron, copper, and saltpetre doomed to remain for ever valueless ? No ; the day must come when the hand of labour shall give them value, and stirring and enterprising people arc destined ere long to fill this void ; the wild beasts will give place to domestic animals j flocks and herds will graze on the beautiful meadows, and the mountain- sides and valleys will swarm with life.*' Before this picture, however, be realised, some com- at 3 too many der us seep- ies of these ed Lu these rowdyism of )f wages by )rtable sub- to obtain a whose name 3 a district uld ever be ving picture Detter suited ion abound- s swarming )ms of coal ress, poplar, wheat and abundance, f hay/' asks ansumed by ■ shall these Are these copper, and less ? No ; ir shall give people are I beasts will herds will mountain- some com- FERTILITY OP THE COUNTRY. 275 munication must be opened east or west between the community and the outer world: and if the British Government docs not take some steps to secure a aettlement of these regions by it own subjects, the irresistible agency of American emigration will erase mere lines upon the map, and determine the question of nationality beyond the power of appeal or alteration. It is agreeable to admit that the inhabitants of the State of Minnesota have not hitherto evinced auv design of raising difficulties as to jurisdiction, or of dis- turbing the relations between the two Governments. In fact, the St. Paul Chamber of Commerce, in 186;^, presented a strong memorial against the proposal to suspend or abrogate the provisions of the lleciprocity Treaty. This memorial says : — " Central British America, including an inhabitable area of 300,000 square miles, and extending north-west of Minnesota to the- Rocky Mountains, will probably be organised as a crown colony of England, with the \ seat of government at Selkirk. There is good reason to believe that a bill for this purpose will become an Act of Parliament at the session now impending. British Columbia, on the Pacific coast, having received a similar organisation in 1S58, the establishment of the province of Central British America will go far to realise the hope so gracefully expressed three years since from the throne of England: *That her Majesty's domi- nions in North America may ultimately be peopled in an unbroken chain from the Atlantic to the Pacific, by a loyal and industrious population of subjects of the British crown.' " Minnesota, with the co-operation of the Government at Washington, has relied with confidence upon the 27G CANADA. .a i probability of such a colonisation of the fertile valleys which stretch beyond the international boundary, from the lakes of Superior and Winnepeg, or the western limits of Canada, to the Pacific colony of British Columbia. Our mails, our trains of regular transporta- tion, and our steam-vessels on the Red River of the North, are already provided as important links of inter- national communication from Toronto to St. Paul, and thence to Fort Garry. The projected railroads of Min- nesota, with extensive grants of land from Congress in behalf of their construction, harmonise in a north- western trend to the valleys of the Red River of the North, and the still more remote Saskatchewan. Our whole commercial future has been projected '. a concert with the victories of peace, even more renowned than war, of which we still hope to witness the achievement in north-west America, irrespective of the imaginary line of an international frontier. " Animated by these expectations, which the march of events has hitherto justified, we invoke the ' sober second thought ' of the country upon the subject of our continental pob'^^y. With the suppression of the Southern rebellion ; with dispassionate discussions by all the parties interested; with the happy accord of minds like Cobden in England and Chase in America upon the best methods of revenue ; and lastly, with the lessons and suggestions of the next three years, a treaty, eminently deserving the designation of a reciprocity treaty, will probably be submitted to the Congress of 1864." When the Committee o^' Commerce, to which the Legislature of New York referred its petition against the Reciprocity Treaty, made their report, they gave ex- WATER COMMUNICATION. 277 tile valleys dary, from le western of British ransporta- ver of the ts of inter- Paul, and ds of Min- ongress in L a north - ver of the ivan. Our in concert •wned than jhievement imaginary the march the 'sober subject of don of the lussions bv accord of in America y, with the rs, a treaty, reciprocity ZJongress of which the against the J gave ex- pression to very different sentiments; and enlarged on the magnitude of the present possessions of the British Crown on the American continent, and the pro- bable grandeur of their future, in a manner which indi- cated certainly the existence of a feeling not far re- moved from jealousy. With great truth they say, that the value of the British North- American possessions is seldom appreciated : stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific, they contain an area of at least 3,478,380 miles. The isothermal line of 60 degrees for summer rises on the interior plains of this continent as high as the 61st parallel, — its average position in Europe. And a favourable comparison may also be traced for winter and other seasons in the year. Then, elevated by the subject, and warming by degrees, the Committee draw a glowing picture of this enormous empire. " Spring opens simultaneously," they say, " on the plains, which stretch for 1200 miles, from St. Paul's to the McKenzie River. Westward are countries of still milder climate, now scarcelv inhabited, but of incalculable value in the future. Eastward are the small settlements, yet distant from the other abodes of civilisation, enjoying the rich iands and pleasant climate of the Red River." It may well surprise the inhabitants of these isles, who have not got 100 miles of natural navigable rivers in the three kingdoms, to learn that this same Red River is capable of steamboat navigation for 400 miles. The following extract from this Report gives perhaps the best idea of the British Possessions in a few words which can be presented to the reader : " It is asserted by those who add personal knowledge of the subject to scientific investigation, that the habitable but undeveloped area of the British Posses- 278 CANADA. sions westerly from Lake Superior and Hudson's Bay, comprises suificient territory to make twenty-five States equal in size to Illinois. Bold as this assertion is, it meets with confirmation in the isothermal charts of Blodgett, the testimony of Richardson, Simpson, Mac- kenzie, the maps published by the Government of Canada, and the recent explorations of Professor Hind, of Toronto. " North of a line drawn from the northern limit of Lake Superior to the coast at the southern limit of Labrador exists a vast region, possessing in its best parts a climate barely endurable, and reaching into the Arctic regions. This country, even more cold, desolate, and barren on the Atlantic coast than in the interior latitudes, becoming Arst known to travellers, has given character in public estimation to the whole north. "Another line, drawn from the northern limit of Minnesota to that of Maine, includes nearly all the inhabited portion of Canada, a province extending opposite the Territory of Dakota and States of Minne- sota, Wisconsin, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York, Vermont, New Ha.:^pshire, and Maine, pos- sessing a climate identical with that of our Northern States. " The ' Maritime Provinces ' on the Atlantic coast include New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward's Island, and Newfoundland. Geographically they may be regarded as a north-easterly prolongation of the New England system. Unitedly they include an area of at least 86,000 square miles, and are capable of sup- porting a larger population than that at present existing in the United States or Great Britain. They are equal .^^^w ^^H THE MARITIME PKOVINCES. 270 son's Bay, five States rtion is, it charts of )son, Mac- rnment of ssor Hind, 'n limit of n limit of n its best g into the , desolate, le interior jllers, has ;he whole n limit of ly all the extending of Minne- inia. New line, pos- Northern Qtic coast Edward's they may in of the e an area le of sup- t existing are equal in extent to the united territory of Holland, Greece, Belgium, Portugal, and Switzerland. "New Brunswick is 190 miles in length and 150 in breadth. Its interests are inseparably connected with those of the adjacent State of Maine. It has an area of 22,000,000 acres, and a seacoast 400 miles in extent, and abounding in harbours. Its population some years ago numbered 210,000, whose chief occupations are connected with shipbuilding, the fisheries, and the tynber trade. Commissioners appointed by the Govern- ment of Great Britain afi&rm that it is impossible to speak too highly of its climate, soil, and capabilities. Few countries are so well'wooded and watered. On its unreclaimed surface is an abundant stock of the finest timber ; beneath are coal fields. The rivers, lakes, and seacoast abound with fish. "Nova Scotia, a- long peninsula, united to the American continent by an isthmus only fifteen miles wide, is 280 miles in length. The numerous indenta- tions on its coast form harbours unsurpassed in any part of the world. Including Cape Breton, it has an area of 12,000,000 acres. "Wheat, and the usual cereals and fruits of the Northern States, flourish in many parts of it. Its population in 1851 was declared by the census to be 276,117. Besides possessing pro- ductive fisheries and agricultural resources, it is rich in mineral wealth, having beneath its surface coal, iron, manganese, gypsum, and gold. " The province of Prince Edward's Island is separated from New Brunswick and Nova Scotia by straits only nine miles in width. It is crescent-shaped, 130 miles in length, and at its broadest part is 31- miles wide. It is a level region, of a more moderate temperature than 280 CANADA. that of Lower Canada, and well adapted to agricultural purposes. Its population in ISIS was 02,678. "The island of Newfoundland has a seacoast 1000 miles in extent. It has an area of 23,040,000 acres, of which only a small portion is cultivated. Its spring is late, its summer short, but the fro?i; of winter is less severe than in many par'.s of our o'.rn Northern States and Territories. It is only 10G5 miles distant from Ireland. It possesses a large trade with various countries, including Spain, Portugal, Italy, the We§t Indies, and the Brazils. "The chief wealth of Newfoundland and of the Labrador coast is to be fou\id in their extensive and inexhaustible fisheries, in which the other Provinces also partake. The future products of these, when pro- perly developed by human ingenuity and industry, defy human calculation. The Gulf Stream is met near the shores of Newfoundland by a current from the Polar basin, vast deposits are formed by the meeting of the opposing waters, the great submarine islands, known as ' The Banks/ are formed ; and the rich pastures created in Ireland by the warm and humid influences of the Gulf Stream are compensated by the ' rich sea- pastures of Newfoundland.' The fishes of warm or tropical waters, inferior in quality and scarcely capable of preservation, cannot form an article of commerce like those produced in inexhaustible quantities in these cold and shallow seas. The abundance of these marine resources is unequalled in any portion of the globe. "Canada, rather a nation than a province in any common acceptation of the term, includes not less than 346,863 square miles of territory, independently of its North-western Possessions not yet open for settlement. AKEA AND POPULATION. 281 gricultural 8. Lcoast 1000 )U acres, of s spring is nter is less lern States stant from th various the We§t nd of the ensive and Provinces when pro- ^stry, defy st near the the Polar ;ing of the ds, known 1 pastures influences ' rich sea- warm or ly capable commerce ;s in these !se marine globe. ■Q in any less than itly of its ittlement. It is tliree times as large as Great Britain and Ireland, and more than three times as large as Prussia. It intervenes between the Great North-west and the Maritime Provinces, and consists chiefly of a vast terri- torial projection into the territory of the United States, although it possesses a coast of nearly 1000 miles on the river and gulf of the St. Lawrence, where fisheries of cod, herring, mackerel, and salmon are carried on successfully. Valuable fisheries exist also in its lakes. It is rich in metallic ore and in the resources of its forests. Large portions of its territory are peculiarly favourable to the growth of wheat, barley, and the other cereals of the north. During the life of the present generation, or the last quarter of a century, its population has increased more than fourfold, or from 582,000 to 2,500,000. "The population of all the provinces may be fairly estimated as numbering 3,500,000. Many of the in- habitants are of French extraction, and a few German settlements exist ; but two-thirds of the people of the provinces owe their origin either to the United States or to the British Islands, whose language we speak, and who ' people the world with men industrious and free.' " The climate and soil of these Provinces and Pos- sessions, seemingly less indulgent than those of tropical regions, are precisely those by which the skill, energy, and virtues of the human race are best developed. Nature there demands thought and labour from man as conditions of his existence, but yields abundant rewards to wise industry. Those causes which; in our age of the world, determine the wealth of nations are those which render man most active ; and it cannot be ^1 283 CANADA. too often or too closely remembered in discussing sub- jects so vast as these, where the human raind may be misled if it attempts to comprehend them in their boundless variety of detail, that sure and safe guides in the application of political economy, and to our own prosperity, are to be found in the simple principles of morality and justice, because they alone are true alike in minute and great affairs, at all times and in every place." iissing sub- ind may be m in their fe guides in ;o our own rinciples of } true alike nd in every CHAPTER XVI. Tlio " Ashburton Capitulation" — Boundaries of Quebec — Arbitration in 1831 — Lord Ashburton's Mission — The Questions in Dispute — "The Sea" v. "The Atlantic"— American Diplomatists— Franklin's Red Line — Compromise — The 'ups — Maine — Damage to Canada — Mr. Webster's Defence — His Opinion of the Road — Value of the Heights — Our Share of Equivalents — Value of Rouse's Point — Vermont — New Hampshire. It was by the celebrated Treaty of Washington, August 9th, 1842, that the boundary line between the British possessions in Canada and the State of Maine in the territories of the United States, was settled and determined. That treaty has beeii sometimes spoken of as the " Ashburton Capitulation." The story of the two maps which played so distinguished a part in the negotiations, is tolerably well known, and has formed a subject of many discussions which have now settled down into fixed convictions. By many, if not by most Americans, acquainted with the subject, it is believed that Mr. Webster did a vefy smart thing. Englishmen, similarly instructed, believe their country to have been cheated by the great American elocutionist. Canadians are of opinion that they have suflfered an irreparable injury at the hands of, or through the weakness of, those appointed to guard their interests by the Imperial Government. The Treaty of Paris, in 1783, did not define the north-eastern boundary of the United States ; it merely declared that the boundary was 2S4. CANADA. :' ^■■•"f drawn along the liighlnnds wliich divide the rivers that empty themselves intu ^ river St. Lawrence from those which fall into the AtL. cic Ocean. If we had had at that time the knowledge of geography and geology, with respect to the basin of the St. Lawrence, which, thanks to the labours of the United States' engineers and of Sir William Logan, we now possess, there would not have been much difficulty in fixing on tlie real line, as there could not well be any dispute respecting the exact line of highlands from which the rivers flowing into the St. Lawrence came, and from the other side of which the water-shed was towards the Atlantic Ocean. Tons of pamphlets, years of controversy, and thousands of pounds might have been spared, not to speak of much national animosity. It may be remarked here, that the difficulty of recon- ciling States' rights with Imperial Federal policy was fore-shadowed in the original disputes Avhich took place at the time of the treaty adjustment. The Treaty speaks of the *' boundaries between the possessions of Her Britannic Majesty in North America and the terri- tories of the United States ;" but the State of Maine in its vehement protest against the line of the King of the Netherlands, assumed the language and the port of an independent Power. Mr. Thomas CoUey Grattan, in his M'ork, " Civilised America," has collected an immense amount of information, and has drawn up an argument on the subject, which prove beyond a doubt, even without collateral aid, that the line vielded bv Lord Ashburton was not that which was meant by the framers of the Treatv of 1783. Let us consider how the case stood. In 1763 the French possessions in North America e rivers that e from those had had at ad geology, dice, which, s' engineers there would ;he real line, specting the vers flowing B other side the Atlantic roversy, and ared, not to Ity of recon- ,1 policy was ih took place The Treaty ossessions of nd the terri- ite of Maine the King of md the port Hey Grattan, collected an drawn up an Dnd a doubt, 3 yielded by neant by the ;onsider how )rth America THE BOUNDARIES OP QUEBEC. 2S5 were ceded to Great Britain, and in the October of that year a royal proclamation defined the boundaries of the government of Quebec, "bounded on the Labrador coast by the river St. John, which falls into the mouth of the St, Lawrence, and from there by a line drawn from the head of that river through the Lake of St. John to the south end of the Lake Nip- issing, from whence the said line, crossing the river St. Lawrence and Lake Charaplain in 45 degrees of north latitude, passes along the highlands which divide the rivers that empty themselves into the said river St. Lawrence from those which fall into the sea, and also along the north coast of the Bay of Chaleurs and the coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence to Cape Rosiere, and from thence crossing the mouth of the river St. Lawrence by the west end of the island of Anticosti, terminates in the aforesaid Lake of St. John." It is fortunate enough that v/e have no neighbours to raise any question about " the line drawn through the Lake of St. John to the south end of the Lake Nip- issing." Previous to the Treaty of Independence only one Act was passed bearing upon the southern boundary of Canada. The Quebec Act of 1774 draws its boundaries between the province of Quebec and the colonies of Nova Scotia and Massachusetts, in words nearly the same as those of the Proclamation of 1763. When the State of Massachusetts and the State of Maine were acknowledged to be "free, sovereign, and independent," by the Treaty of 1783, the contracting parties appeared to have defined the boundary-line with tolerable exactitude. They wished to prevent disputes between the United States and 286 CANADA. 1 i the colonics, and therefore the ])oundarie8 were con- stituted " from the north-west angle of Nova Scotia, — viz., that angle whi(3h is formed by a line drawn due north from the source of the St. Croix river to the highlands, along the said highlands which divide those rivers that empty themselves into the St. Lawrence from those whicli fall into the Atlantic Ocean, — to the north-westernmost head of Connecticut river east, by a line to be drawn along the middle of the river St. Croix from its mouth in the Bay of Fundy to its source, and from its source directly north to the aforesaid high- lands which divide the rivers which fall into the Atlantic Ocean from those which fall into the river St. Lawrence, comprehending all highlands within twenty leagues of any Imrbour of the United States, and lying between lines to be drawn due east from the points where the aforesaid boundaries between Nova Scotia on the one part, and East Florida on the other, shall respectively touch the Bay of Fundy and the Atlantic Ocean, except such highlands as now are, or heretofore have been, within the limits of the said province of Nova Scotia." The north-west angle of Nova Scotia thus be- comes a point of consequence — upon the determina- tion of it rests the true line. The British maintain that the angle is contained at the point " where the line due north from the river St. Croix touches the highlands at a point about 100 miles south of the point claimed by the United States." The Americans argue that the north-west angle was " considerably nearer to the St. Lawrence, at a spot 145 miles north of the source of the St. Croix." In 1794 Commissioners were appointed to determine " where a line drawn due north ARBITRATION IN 1831. 2S7 I were con- va Scotia, — drawn due iver to the divide those :. Lawrence an, — to the ('cr cast, bv ;hc river St. its source, resaid high- 1 into tlic he river St. thin twenty s, and lying 1 the points S^ova Scotia other, shall he Atlantic r heretofore province of thus be- determina- h maintain where the ouches the of the point icans argue y nearer to orth of the ioners were [1 due north from the St. Croix would intersect a line of highlands corresponding with those mentioned in the Treaty of 1783." The umpire called in by the Commissioners fixed on the most northern point of the river as tlic place from wiiich the line to the hij;hland.s was to be drawn, and the result was that the line so drawn did not strike the highlands which we held to be those meant by the treaty, but passing them at a distance of twenty niile«» on the west, came to an isolated moun- tain called MiXTA Hill, from which the Americans desired to prolong it northwards beyond the river St. John to the highlands above the source of the lleste- gouche J but the British Commissioners insisted that the line should not proceed further north, and that the highlands which ran west from near that point to the head of the Connecticut river should form the next boundary-line. Events of greater importance for a time prevented any attempt to adjust a question, which promised, however, no slight difficulty in time to come. Then war broke out between the United States and Great Britain; but the Peace of 1814 rendered it neces- sary to renew the attempt to define the bounda- ries of the two States. The Commissioners appointed by the Treaty of Ghent were not more fortunate than their predecessors ; and it was thirteen years after the signing of that treaty before the Governments of the two countries arranged a convention, to carry out the provi- sion made by an article in the Treaty for the appointment of a referee in case of disagreement. The King of the Netherlands, who accepted the office of arbiter in 1831, delivered his award, which, taking the line drawn north from the St. Croix to Mars Hill, passed beyond it to 288 CANADA. ijS the river St. John, whence it took the course of the river westward, inside the line claimed by the United States to the head of the Connecticut River. This compro- mise was identical with the actual line established by the Treaty of 1842, except on the western side, where the line fixed by the King and that claimed by the United States are the same. The King's line approximates much more closely to the United States' line than it does to that which we claim : however, the Americans refused to accept it, on the grounds that the King had no right to go beyond the matter referred to him of deter- mining which of the two lines Avas right, and that he had exceeded his province in proposing a line which had not been referred to him by either of the parties. Eleven years passed in unavailing endeavours to adjust a question which rose into the highest rank of diplomatic difficulties. Lord Ashburton, the head of the commercial house of Baring, whose relations with American commerce were supposed to be likely to recommend him to American statesmen, was dispatched in 1842 to determine the boundary, in concert with Mr. Webster. These gentlemen were assisted by seven Commissioners from Maine and Massachusetts. The author of a pamphlet of very great ability, quoted by Mr, Grattan, arrived at the conclusion that the line designated in the Proclamation of 1763, is identical with that claimed by the United States, and that the line indicated in the treaty of 1783 is almost the game as that claimed by Great Britain. He argued that it was clearly intended to create a new boundary, because Mr. Townsend said so, and Lord North re- peated the statement in Parliament. He maintained that the variations in the wording of the treaty from THE QUESTION IN DISPUTE. 289 I of the river lited States his compro- ished by the ;, where the the United pproximates line than it s Americans King had no lim of deter- md that he L line which he parties, ideavours to hest rank of the head of ;lations with 3e hicely to s dispatched ioncert with ted by seven asetts. The lity, quoted ;hat the line is identical tnd that the almost the He argued w boundary, d North re- maintained treaty from that of the proclamation, were specially introduced to show that a new boundary was intended, and that if it had not been so, the description in the treaty would have been the same as it was in the proclamation ; and he then proceeded further to contend, with greater force of reasoning, that the proclamation boundary, although it might have adequately defined tlie limits of a province, would have been obviously unsuitable as between two independent nations, because it would cut off communi- cation between two portions of the territory of one of the Powers, and give it to another independent State. He further asserted, that all negotiations and projects for peace on the part of the United States were based on the supposition that England would demand a new line, and that Congress never contemplated an adherence to the Proclamation of 1763. All the reasoning of the pamphleteer in support of these pro- positions is distinguished by acuteness, and inclines the mind to accept them with confidence ; and he is not less happy in his argument that the Madawaska river is distinct from the river St. John — that it is a tributary, not a branch, of that stream. The question as to the range of highlands meant by the treaties can only be settled by analytical reasoning, which, in relation to matters of fact of the kind under dispute, is satisfactory only to those who direct their own course of argument. There are two ranges of highlands dividing the rivers which flow into the St. Lawrence and those which empty themselves into the Atlantic; the first, running from the sources of the Connecticut towards the Bay of Chaleurs, cer- tainly separates rivers emptying into the St. Lawrence from those emptying into the aev ; but the second line 290 CANADA. ■ :i starting from the same mountainous germ at the sources of the Connecticut, branching off from the first range at a point about eighty miles from its com- mencement, takes a southern course towards the head of the St. Croix, and divides the rivers which empty themselves into the St. Lawrence from those which flow into the Atlantic Ocean. It is contended on one side, with much force of reasoning and probability, that the highlands specified in the Treaty of 1783 are those of the southern range. It was necessary of course to fix upon some great natural features in a district vast in extent and unknown to all but the Red men and the hunter. Rivers and the summit level between two great watersheds would be obviously selected. It was the object of England to secure free communication between all parts of her American ter- ritory, and, of course, between Canada and Nova Scotia. The Americans proposed the line of the St. John, which was at once rejected. That being the case, it is difficult to conceive how they could go back and propose, as a line more likely to meet the views of England, the highlands of the northern range close to the St. Lawrence, which would throw the greatest diffi- culties in the way of the communication which it was a vital point for England to secure. It will have been observed that the words " the Sea" and the " Atlantic Ocean " are used in the treaties, and it certainly is not easy to comprehend how the Americans can maintain that these terms have an identical meaning, if the description of the maps which they had before them at the time is correct. The Connecticut, the Penob- scot, and the Eennebeck, can be considered as flowing into the Atlantic Ocean from one range of highlands THE SEA VEESUS THE ATLANTIC. 291 •m at the f from the im its com- ds the head hich empty hose which led on one probabiHty, .f 1783 are ecessary of atures in a )ut the Red immit level 3 obviously secure free nerican ter- and Nova of the St. being the uld go back tie views of ige close to eatest diffi- hich it was have been e "Atlantic ainly is not m maintain ling, if the )efore them the Penob- i as flowing f highlands only, and it is equally plain that the other, or northern, range was that whicli was meant as the highlands from which rivers flowed into the " sea." It has been urged, ingeniously and truly, that the words " The Sea," give a larger range of boundary than the words " The Atlantic ; " and that therefore the boundary which depended on a reference to the Atlantic, was intended to have a smaller extent than that which was made to depend upon the Sea. The Atlantic Avas certainly substituted for the Sea, not only in the treaty, but in the Commissions of the Governors of Quebec, showing an alteratior. of the boundary of their jurisdic- tion, whilst no change was made in the Commissions of the Governors of New Brunsv»'ick, because the boundary of their province depended upon that of Quebec. The highlands separating rivers that empty into the Atlantic Ocean, are by no means identical with the highlands separating the rivers that empty into the Sea. The Americans have urged that the northern range divides the rivers of the St. Lawrence from the Atlantic rivers, but it certainly does not separate the Penobscot branches north and east which flow into the Atlantic from the southern range ; and the term " The rivers," of course means all the rivers, because, other- wise, such a considerable stream as the Penobscot would have been excepted specially. The southern range separated all the rivers which flow into the Atlantic, from all the rivers which flow into the St. Lawrence. Had the Commissioners drawn the due north line from the western branch of the St. Croix, which formed the ancient boundary of Nova Scotia, instead of from the northern branch, the whole of the complicated and vexatious questions might have been evaded, and u 2 I !;■ 292 CANADA. ^■| ' tlie claim urged by the United States might never have been heard. It was the doctrine of State rights alone which justified the rejection of the Netherlands com- promise. The tract in dispute was indeed but seven milHon acres of river, mountain, and forest, but the northern boundary of this tract overlooked the course of the St. Lawrence, and carried American territory within a day's march of its stream, whilst the direct roads and communications between the Provinces east and west, would be placed inside American territory. To the Maine lumberers, however, this tract was not uninviting, and it became a debateable land, in which British colonists from New Brunswick, and American squatters, carried on a series of inroads and fcfc'cible settlements, v/hich were fortunately unattended by actual bloodshed. Lord Palmerston, who in 1835 notified the refusal of the British Government to accept the Netherlands compromise, appointed Commissioners in 1839 to inquire into the state of the question upon the spot, and their report, which was handed to the United States Government in 1840, in the most abso- lute terms laid it down that the southern range was that intended by the treaty of 1783. Mr. Grattan, who was by no means unduly disposed to favour American pretensions, describes with terse propriety the disputes which now arose. " All on our side,^' he says, " was supercilious pride; on that of the United States, aggres- sive coarseness." To Sir Robert Peel is due the praise of having taken a decided step to settle the north-eastern boundary. Lord Ashburton, received with considerable enthusiasm in the United States, was at once accepted by President Tyler, and for the better adjustment of the difficulty. \^\r.d li} never have iglits alone lands com- but seven st, but the the course n territory the direct )vinces east territory, ct was not 1, in which American nd f(*rcible tended by in 1835 it to accept amissioners 3stion upon ded to the most abso- range was rattan, who • American ae disputes says, " was tes, aggres- Lving taken boundary. Bnthusiasm y President 3 difficulty, AMERICAN DIPLOMATISTS. 203 it was arranged that he should be met by Mr. Webster in a spirit of perfect candour ; tliat memoranda and despatches were to be dispensed with, and that every honest, straightforward exertion should be made on both sides to come to a satisfactory settlement of the vexed question. Lord Ashburtou had, however, to encounter not only the Secretary of State, but the Commissioners of Maine and INIassachusetts, among whom were Mr. Abbott Lawrence and Mr. Preble. Mr. Grattan, who was actually invited to assist at the negotiations by the American Commissioners, and went to Washington as amicus curia', gives a most minute and interesting account of the whole of the proceedings, and states positively that Mr. Webster sent a confidential agent to the Commissioners, pro- posing a line far south of the St. John's River, before they had got further than New York, which gave great oflfence to Mr. Preble, by whose influence it was rejected. His pertinacity and the pomposity of Law- rence, with which we are well acquainted in England, were obstacles in the way of a calm discussion of adverse claims, but the other Commissioners are described as exceedingly forbearing, unassuming, and well- behaved. At first Lord Ashburton seemed to make wav with Mr. Webster, and to be on the point of obtaining a more favourable line than that proposed by the Netherlands compromise, but the British Commissioner had no special proof or absolute document to show that the highlands south of St. John indicated the boundary meant by the treaty of 1783. It was known that Dr. Franklin sent from Paris to Washington, at the time of 294 CANADA. m 1 bl i^i making the treaty, a map on which was drawn a red ink line to show the boundary to Mr. Jeflferson. It is strange enough that, in the state of confusion caused by conflicting statements and contradictory documents, it should not have occurred to Lord Ashburton or to Mr. Grattan, who records his own anxious searches after Dr. Franklin's map, that a coun- terpart might have been readily found in Paris in the archives of the Foreign Office ; but the fact was, Frank- lin's map could nowhere be found in the State Paper Department of Washington. The production of that map with the red ink line must have placed the boundary question beyond the reach of controversy ; in fact, the map of De Vergennes could have been consulted at Paris, and the same red line might have been seen on it as that which was seen in Franklin's. Lord Aberdeen had for some inscrutable reason resolved that the boundary should be drawn so as to include the settlement of Madawaska on the St, John, within the British possessions, whilst the Com- missioners were equdly resolute not to except an inch south of the St. John itself; and the arrangement proposed by a small European monarch was regarded by the Americans as a proof that they were entitled to all that they had asked, and that the compromise was suggested to propitiate England. The expectations which had been entertained of an immediate adjustment were followed by a renewal of angry feeling and political commotion. Lord Ash- burton, after an unequal struggle with Webster and the Commissioners, in a controversial correspondence on which he had not very wisely entered, yielded in a spirit of honourable concession the claim of ilrawn a red son. f confusion >ntradictory to Lord ds his own hat a coun- Paris in the kvas, Frank- Jtate Paper d ink line beyond the Vergennes e same red h was seen inscrutable e drawn so I on the St. the Com- pt an inch [•rangement LS regarded entitled to romise was lined of an renewal of Lord Ash- ebster and sspondence 3d, yielded claim of FRANKLINS RED LINE. 295 Great Britain to the southern line of highlands. Ho was impressed soiuevvhat, no doubt, by the vehemence and force of unanimous public opinion in America respecting the justice of their claim, the strong and general conviction felt that the country was in the right. Extended and accessible on every side, his mind could not resist the constant pressure of the audacious and penetrating weight of Webster's intellect, and he gradually gave way like a crumbling wall to the flood- tide of intense determination by which he was assailed. The middle of the St. John was accepted as the boun- dary, but instead of following the highlands overlooking the valley of the St. Lawrence, a line was determined upon sixty miles more to the south, which thus removes the United States frontier to a tolerable distance from the navigation of the river and the military control of the banks. On both sides of the Atlantic this compromise was received with expressions of disgust and anger. The Americans, knowing themselves very well and English- men very little, declared that Daniel Webster had been bought. In the land of liberty it is the custom of the repre- sentatives of the people to conduct their debates in secret whenever any question of public interest arises, and the Senate ratified the treaty by a large majority, after a long debate carried on with closed doors for several days. Some time after the treaty had been signed, it turned out that Mr. Webster had all the time possessed a map on which Franklin's red line, tracing the boun- dary of 1783 south of the St. John, was distinctly marked. ; 1: 2&G CANADA. m \ The map in question was an authentic copy of one which was given to De Vergcnnes by Dr. Franklin him- self when the treaty was made. Its existence had been made known to the President, to the Senate, and to all the Americans engaged in the negotiation. This map was no doubt the same as that which had disappeared from the State Department. Its existence was known to many people. It appears that Mr. Jared Sparkes, of Boston, found in the archives at Paris the following letter. " Paissey, Deer. Gth, 1782. '* Sir, — I have the honour of returning herewith the map your Excellency sent me yesterday. I have marked with a strong red line, according to your desire, the limits of the United States as settled in the prelimina- ries between the British and American Plenipoten- tiaries. " With great respect, " I am, &c., "B. Franklin." This letter was addressed to the Count De Yergennes, the French Minister. Mr. Sparkes, in fact, discovered the actual map of North America of 1746, and on it was drawn a strong red line throughout the entire boundary of the United States, answering exactly to Franklin's description. "Imagine," says Mr. Sparkes, "my sur- prise on discovering that this line runs wholly south of the St. John's, and between the head waters of that river and those of the Penobscot and Kennebec; in short, it is exactly the line contended for by Great Britain, except that it concedes more than is claimed." lish the arg bv of THE MAPS. 297 copy of one aiiklin liirr- cc had been 3, and to all This map disappeared was known id Sparkes, B following th, 1782. 3rewith the ave marked desire, the preliraina- lenipoten- ii NKLIN. /"ergennes, discovered 1 on it was i boundary Franklin's " my sur- y south of rs of that Lennebec; by Great than is When the secret debates of the Senate were pub- lished, it was seen that Mr. Rives, the Chairman of the Committee on Foreign Affairs, had fortified his argument against the rejection of this Ashburton line by quoting the existence of this map, and warning them of the risk and danger of a further search into the archives of Europe. In the debate that followed, Mr. Benton, eager to overthrow the value of Mr. Sparkes' discovery and of ]Mr. Rives's argument, produced a map from the Jefterson collection in the library of Congress, which contained a dotted line marking the boundary of the Government of Quebec under the proclamation of 1763, but strange to say, he overlooked the fact which was at once visible to every eye, that a strong red line, indicating the limits of the United States according to the Treaty of Peace, was traced across it, which coin- cided minutely and exactly with the boundary on Mr. Sparkes' map. Those who wish for the most minute details respect- ing this map, may be referred to Mr. Grattan's work. The map of Baron Steiben, and that of Faden, coincide in a most remarkable manner in marking the limits of the United States. It is worthy of note that Mr. Buchanan, the last President of the United States, did his very best to maintain the propriety of the deceit. Mr. Calhoun is supposed to have appreciated the importance of the discoveries, and to have felt the injury to American diplomacy which Mr. Webster's suppressions of truth might .create on future occasions. The Americans actually made use of the weakness of the English Minister as an argument that they had been cheated themselves, and Mr. Webster's ability in concealing ' I 298 CANADA. pii.^ the truth was considered evidence that he had not gone far enough in the same hue, and his reputation as a skilful and successful negotiator was considered not to stand very high. The action of Sir Robert Peel, however, prevented any endeavour to obtain the legitimate advantages which the discovery of these maps ought to have produced. , The decision arrived at affected the State of Maine and the pretensions of its people, but it had little to do with the prosperity or military strength of the whole of the Union : whilst it weakened C?.nada in its weak- est point, and conferred most signal advantage on the only enemy it had to fbar : it bit in to the substance of the Provinces, and at the same time cut the vein of communication with the sea for five long winter months. Strange that a line drawn upon a piece of paper by the hand of a man gathered to his fathers for so many years, should for a time at least decide so much of a nation's happiness and prosperity — for a time only, because it must soon be that the increasing power or failing resources of the United States, or of Canada, will cause a modification of the present frontier, more in accordance with the commercial and military exi- gencies of the two States. The Canadians feel that Imperial diplomacy has done them a great wrong, pos- sibly very much as France feels in respect to her E-henish boundary ; but in a military point of view, perhaps the cession of Rouse's Point has been the most serious of all the circumstances affecting the relations for aggres- sive piirposes of the United States with the Pro- vinces. In order that we may appreciate the importance of Mr. Webster's achievement, let us quote his own MR. Webster's opinion. 299 he had not s reputation considered Sir Robert ) obtain the ry of these ite of Maine had little to of the whole in its weak- tage on the substance of the vein of long winter •n a piece of is fathers for cide so much a time only, Qg power or ' of Canada, 'ontier, more nilitary exi- ns feel that wrong, pos- her Rhenish perhaps the st serious of 5 for aggres- h the Pro- iportance of te his own description of it in the great debate which took place in the Senate on the Washington Treaty. Mr. Webster, in noticing some of the many charges made against hina in reference to the treaty, dealt with ilu question of military concession in the following manner : — ({ Lord Palmerston (if he be the author of certain pub- lications ascribed to him) snys that all the important points were given up by Lord Ashburton to the United States. I might here state, too, that Lord Palmerston called the Avhole treaty * the Ashburton capitulation/ declaring that it yielded everything that was of import- ance to Great Britain, and that all its stipulations were to the advantage of the United States, and to the sacrifice of the interests of England. But it is not on such general, and, I may add, such unjust statements, nor on any off-hand expressions used in debate, though in the roundest terms, that this question must turn. He speaks of this military road, but he entirely mis- 1 places it. The road which runs from New Brunswick to Canada follows the north side of the St. John to the mouth of the Madawaska, and then, turning north- west, follows that stream to Lake Temiscoata, and thence proceeds over a depressed part of the highlands till it strikes the St. Lawrence 117 miles below Quebec. This is the road which has been always used, and there is no other. " I admit that it is very convenient for the British Government to possess territory through which they may enjoy a road ; it is of great value as an avenue of communication in time of peace; but as a military communication it is of no value at all. What business can an army ever have there ? Besides, it is no gorge. 300 CANADA. no pass, no narrow defile, to l)o defended by a fort. If a fort should be built there, an army could, at pleasure, make a deioiir so as to keep out of the reach of its j^uns. It is very useful, I admit, in time of peace. But docs not everybody know, military man or not, that unless there is a defile, or some narrow place through which troops must pass, and which a fortifica- tion will command, that a mere open road must, in time of war, be in the power of the strongest? If we retained by treaty the territory over which the road is to be constructed, and war came, would not the English take possession of it if they could? Would they be restrained by a regard to the treaty of Washington ? I have never yet heard a reason adduced why this com- munication should be regarded as of the slightest j)ossible advantage in a military point of view. " But the circumstance to which I allude is, tha^, by a map published with the speech of the liontMrable member from Missouri, made in the Senate, on the question of ratifying the treaty, this well-known and long-used road is laid down, probably from the same source of error which misled Lord Palmerston, as following the St. John, on its south side, to the mouth of the St. Francis ; thence along that river to its source, and thence, by a single bound, over the highlands to the St. Lawrence, near Quebec. This is all imagina- tion. It is called the ' Valley Road.' Valley Road, indeed ! Why, Sir, it is represented as running over the very ridge of the most inaccessible part of the highlands ! It is made to cross abrupt and broken precipices, 2000 feet high ! It is, at diflferent points of its imaginary course, from fifty to a hundred miles distant from the real road. VALUE OF THE IIEIOHTS. 301 y fi fort. If , at i)l(.'asuro, rcjioh of its ic of peace, nail or not, arrow place h a fortifica- lid must, in est? If we 1 tlic road is the English lid thev be hington ? I ly this corn- he slightest !W. is, tha*^^, by a honourable late, on the •known and tn the same nerston, as 3 the mouth ;o its source, iighlands to dl imagina- 'alley Road, unning over 3art of the and broken nt points of idred miles " So much, Mr. President, for the great boon of military communication conceded to England. It is nothing more nor less than a common road, along streams and lakes, and over a country in great part rather flat. It then passes the heights to the St. Lawrence. If war breaks out, we shall take it if we can, and if we need it, of which there is not the slightest probability. It will never be protected by fortifications, and never can be. It will be just as easy to take it from England, in case of war, as it would be to keep possession of it, if it were our own. " In regard to the defence of the heights, I shall dis- pose of that subject in a few words. There is a ridge of highlands which does approach the river St. Law- rence, although it is not true that it overlooks Quebec ; on the contrary, the ridge is at the distance of thirty or forty miles. " It is very natural that military men in England, or indeed in any part of Europe, should have attached great importance to these mountains. The great mili- tary authority of England, perhaps the highest living military authority, had served in India and on the European continent, nnd it was natural enough that he should apply European ideas of military defences to America. But they are quite inapplicable. High- lands such as these are not ordinarily found on the great battle-fields of Europe. They are neither Alps nor Pyrenees ; they have no passes through them, nor roads over them, and never will have. " Then there was another cause of misconception on tliis subject in England. In 1830 an ex parte survey was made, as I have said, by Colonel Mudge and Mr. Featherstonhaugh, if survey it could be called, of the W>: 302 CANADA. region in the North cMVf aine, for the use of the British Government. I d^re "say Colonel Mudge is an intelli- gent and respectable officer ; how much personal atten- tion he gave the subject I do not know. As to Mr. Peatherstonhaugh, he has been in our service, and his authority is not worth a straw. These two persons made a report, containing this very singular statement : That in the ridge of highlands nearest to the St. Law- rence, there was a great hiatus in one particular place, a gap of thirty or forty miles, in which the elevation did not exceed fifty feet. This is certainly the strangest statement that ever was made. Their whole report gave but one measurement by the barometer, and that measurement stated the height of 1200 feet. A survey and map were made the following year by cur own commissioners, Messrs. Graham and Talcott, of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, and Professor Renwick, of Columbia College. On this map, the very spot where this gap was said to be situated is dotted over thickly with figures, showing heights varying from ]200 to 2000 feet, and forming one rough and lofty ridge, marked by abrupt and almost perpendicular precipices. When this map and report of Messrs. Mudge and Featherstonhaugh were published, the British authorities saw that this alleged gap was laid down as an indefensible point, and it was probably on that ground alone that they desired a line east of that ridge, in order that they might guard against access of a hostile power from the United States. But in truth there is no such gap ; cur engineers proved this, and we quite well understood it when agreeing to the boundary. Any man of common sense, military or not, must therefore now see, that nothing can be more OUR SHARE OF EQUIVALENTS. 303 of the British 5 is an intelli- srsonal atten- As to Mr. rvice, and his two persons ar statement : the St. Law- 'ticular place, the elevation the strangest whole report iter, and that t. A survey by our own Icott, of the id Professor aap, the very ted is dotted varying from ?h and lofty lerpendicular : of Messrs. blished, the ^ap was laid probably on ! east of that nst access of But in truth '■ed this, and sing to the military or can be more imaginary or unfounded than the idea that any import- ance attaches to the possession of these heights. " Sir, there are two old and well-known roads to Canada ; one by way of Lake Champlain and the Richelieu, to Montreal — this is the route which armies have traversed so often, in different periods of our history. The other leads from the Kennebec river to the sources of the Chaudiure and the Du Loup, and so to Quebec — this last was the track of Arnold's march. East of this, there is no practicable communication for troops between Maine and Canada, till we get to the Madawaska. We had before us a report from General Wool, while this treaty was under negotiation, in which that intelligent officer declares that it is perfectly idle to think of fortifying any point east of this road. East of Arnold's track it is a mountain region, through which no army can possibly pass into Canada. With General Wool was associ- ated, in this examination. Major Graham, whom I have already mentioned. His report to General Wool, made in the year 1838, clearly points out the Ken- nebec and Chaudiere road as the only practicable route for an army between Maine and Quebec. He was subsequently employed as a commissioner in the ex 'parte surveys of the United States. Being an engineer officer of high character for military know- ledge and scientific accuracy, his opinion had the weight it ought to have, and which will be readily given to it by all who know him. His subsequent and still more thorough acquaintance with this mountain range, in its whole extent, has only confirmed the judgment which he had previously formed. And, Sir, this avenue to Canada, this practicable avenue, and 304 CANADA. '.i'^- \ ) -±A only practicable avenue east of that by way of Lake Champlain, is left now just as it was found by the treaty. The treaty does not touch it, nor in any manner affect it. " But I must go further. I said that the treaty of Washington was a treaty of equivalents, in which it was expected that each party should give something and receive something. I am now willing to meet any gentleman, be he a military man or not, who will make the assertion, that, in a military point of view, the greatest advantages derived from that treaty are on the side of Great Britain. It was on this point that I wished to say something in reply to an honourable member from New York, who will have it that in this treaty England supposes that she got the advantage of us. Sir, I do not think the military advantages she obtained by it are worth a rush. But even if they were, if she had obtained advantages of the greatest value, would it not have been fair in the mrmber from New jfork to state, nevertheless, whether there were not equivalent military advantages obtained on our side, in other parts of the line ? Would it not have been candid and proper in him, when adverting to the military advantages obtained by England, in a commu- nication between New Brunswick and Canada, if such advantages there were, to have stated, on the other hand, and at the same time, our reco\ery of Rouse's Point, at the outlet of Lake Champlain ? an advantage which overbalanced all others, forty times told. I must be allowed to say, that I certainly never expected that a member from New York, above all other men, should speak of this treaty as conferring military advantages on Great Britain without full equivalents. STRATEGIC VALUE OP ROUSE S POINT. 305 way of Lake ound by the nor in any :lie treaty of in which it ^e somethinnj r to meet anv > •> ho will make of view, the ty are on the point that I L honourable t that in this le advantage Wantages she even if thev the greatest nrmber from r there were ined on our it not have erting to the in a commu- iada, if such )n the other of Rouse^s in advantage aes told. I ver expected other men, ing military equivalents. I listened to it, I confess, with utter astonishment. A distinguished senator from that State saw at the time, very clearly, the advantage gained by this treaty to the United States and to New York. He voted willingly for its ratification, and he never will say that Great Britain obtained a balance of advantages in a military point of view. " Why, how is the State of New York affected by this treaty? Sir, is not Kouse^s Point perfectly well- known, and admitted, by every military man, to be the key of Lake Champlain ? It commands every vessel passing up or down the lake, between New York and Canada. It had always been supposed that this point lay some distance south of the parallel of 45*^, which was our boundary line with Canada, and there- fore was within the United States; and, under this supposition, the United States purchased the land, and commenced the erection of a strong fortress. But a more accurate survey having been made in 1818, by astronomers on both sides, it was found that the parallel of 45° ran south of this fortress, and thus Rouse's Point, with the fort upon it, was found to be in the British dominions. This discovery created, as well It might, a great sensation here. None knows this better than the honourable member from South. Carolina, who was then at the head of the Depart- ment of War. As Rouse's Point was no longer ours, we sent our engineers to examine the shores of the lake, to find some other place or places which we might fortify. They made a report on their return, saying that there were two other points some distance south of Rouse's Point, one called Windmill Point, on the east side of the lake, and the other called Stony 306 CANADA. Point, on the west side, which it became necessary now to fortify, and they gave an estimate of the probable expense. When this treaty was in process of nego- tiation, we called for the opinion of military men respecting the value of Rouse's Point, in order to see whether it was highly desirable to obtain it. We had their report before us, in which it was stated that the natural and best point for the defence of the outlet of Lake Champlain was Rouse's Point. In fact, anybody might see that this was the case who would look at the map. The point projects into the narrowest passage by which the waters of the lake pass into the Riche- lieu. Any vessel passing into or out of the lake, must come within point-blank range of the guns of a fortress erected on this point ; and it ran out so far that any such vessel must approach the fort, head on, for several miles, so as to be exposed to a raking fire from the battery, before she could possibly bring her broadside to bear upon the fort at all. It was very different with the points farther south. Between them the passage was much wider ; so much so, indeed, that a vessel might pass directly between the two, aiid not be in reach of point-blank shot from either." Mr. Dickinson, of New York, here interposed, to ask whether the Dutch line did not give us Rouse's Point. " Certainly not. It gave us a semicircular line, run- ning round the fort, but not including What we had possessed before. And besides, we had rejected the Dutch line, and the whole point now clearly belonged to England. It was all within the British territory. " I was saying that a vessel might pass between Wind- mill Point and Stony Point, and be without the range MR. WEBSTER ON THE INVASION OF CANADA. 307 cessary now ;he probable ;ss of nego- lilitary men order to see t. We had ed that the ;he outlet of ct, anybody . look at the est passage the Riche- lake, must of a fortress far that any , for several re from the 3r broadside I'y different them the eed, that a ai^d not be erposed, to as Rouse's T line, run- hat we had ejected the ly belonged erritory. reen Wind- t the range of both, till her broadside could be brought to bear upon either of them. The forts would be entirely independent of each other, and, having no communica- tion, could not render each other the least assistance in case of attack. But the military men told us there was no sort of question that Rouse's Point was ex- tremely desirable as a point of military defence. This is plain enough, and I need not spend time to prove it. Of one thing I am certain, that the true road to Canada is by the way of Lake Champlain. That is the old path. I take to myself the credit of having said here, thirty years ago, speaking of the mode of takir.g Canada, that, when an American woodsman undertf.kes to fell a tree, he does not begin by lopping off the branches, but strikes his axe at once into the trunk. The trunk, in relation to Canada, is Montreal, and the River St. Lawrence dowT to Quebec; and so we found in the last war. It is not my purpose to scan the propriety of military measures then adopted, but I suppose it to have been rather accidental and unfor- tunate that we began the attack in Upper Canada. It would have been better military policy, as I suppose, to have pushed our whole force by the way of Lake Champlain, and made a direct movement on Montreal ; and though we might thereby have lost the glories of the battles of the Thames and of Lundy's Lane, and of the sortie from Fort Erie, yet we should have won other laurels of equal, and perhaps frreater value, at Montreal. Once successful in this movement, the whole country above would have fallen into our power. Is not this evident to every gentleman ? " Rouse's Point is the best means of defending both the ingress into the lake, and the exit from it. And I X 2 308 CANADA. say now, that on the whole frontier of the State of New York, with the single exception of the Narrows below the city, there is not a point of equal importance. I hope this government will last for ever; but if it does not, and if, in the judgment of Heaven, so great a calamity shall befall us as the rupture of this Union, and the State of New York shall thereby be thrown upon her own defences, I ask, is there a single point, except the Narrows, the possession of which she will so much desire ? No, there is not one. And how did we obtain this advantage for lier ? The parallel of 45° north was establishec^ by the treaty of 1783 as our boundary with Canada in that part of the line. But, as I have stated, that line was found to run south of Rouse's Point. And how did we get back this pre- cious possession ? By running a semicircle like that of the King of the Netherlands ? No ; we went back to the old line, which had always been supposed to be the true line, and the establishment of which gave us not only Rouse^s Point, but a strip of land containing some thirty or forty thousand acres between the paral- lel of 45° and the old line. " The same arrangement gave us a similar advantage in Vermont ; and I have never heard that the con- stituents of my friend near me made any complaint of the treaty. That State got about sixty or seventy thousand acres, including several villages, which would otherwise have been left on the British side of the line. We received Rouse's Point, and this additional land, as one of the equivalents for the cession of territory made in Maine. And what did we do for New Hampshire? There was an ancient dispute as to which was the north- westernmost head of the Connec- VERMONT — NEW HAMPSIIIUE. 309 le State of lie Narrows importance. ; but if it en, 80 great this Union, be thrown ingle point, ich she will nd how did rallel of 45° 783 as our line. But, un south of V this pre- ie like that ) went back posed to be ch gave us containing 1 the paral- ' advantage it the con- complaint or seventy hich would of the line, ional laud, •f territory for New )ute as to le Connec- ticut River. Several streams were found, either of which might be insisted on as the true boundary. But we claimed that which is called HalFs Stream. This had not formerly been allowed ; the Dutch award did not give to New Hampshire what she claimed ; and Mr. Van Ness, our commissioner, appointed under the Treaty of Ghent, after examining the ground, came to the conclusion that we were not entitled to HalFs Stream. I thought that we were so entitled, although I admit that Hall's Stream does not join the Connecticut River till after it has passed the parallel of 45°. By the Treaty of Washington this demand was agreed to, and it gave New Hampshire 100,000 acres of land. I do not say that we obtained this wrongfully ; but I do say that we got that which Mr. Van Ness had doubted oui* right to. I thought the claim just, however, and the line was established accordingly. And here let me say, once for all, that, if we had gone for arbitration, we should inevitably have lost what the treaty gave to Vermont and New York ; because all that was clear matter of cession, and not adjustment of doubtful boundary." Unfortunately Mr. Webster but too well described our share of the advantages obtained by this " treaty of equivalents." The consequences to us in a war might be more disastrous than those he indicated. CHAPTER XVII. Tho Acadian Confederation — Union ia Strength — The Provinces — New Brunswick — The Temperature — Trade of St John — Climate and Agriculture of Nova Scotia — Prince Edward Island — New- foundland — The Red River District — Assiniboia — Tho Red River Valley — Minnesota and the "West — Tho Hudson's Bay Company — Thoir Territory — Tlie North- West Regions — Climate of Winnipeg Basin — ■ Its Area — Finances of the Confederation — Imports, Exports, and Tonnage — Proposed Federal Constitution — Lessons from the American Struggle. We have now seen the clangers which threaten Canada, we have to some extent examined the means of resisting them, and have followed the process by which a severe injury was inflicted on her powers of defence. Mr. Webster was a grand specimen of unscrupulous intelligence — he was a colossal " Yankee." It will be observed that he regarded the acquisitions so dex- terously made — quocunque modo rem — as valuable on account of their military capabilities — that he took the highest point accessible to the American mind when he showed that his work could be made available for the annoyance and injury of Great Britain. In so far he betrayed — if indeed there is any deception in the matter — the animating principle of American political life. Let any public man prove that he has hurt the English power or aflronted it — that he has damnified its commerce and lowered its prestige, and the popular sentiment will applaud him, no matter the agency by which his purpose was effected. Recent events have greatly inflamed the spirit which always burned against UNION IS STRENGTH. 311 he Provinces — John — Climate i Island — New- -Tho Red River 3ay Company — ite of Winnipeg ;ion — Imports, iution — Lessons ch threaten he means of !ss by which of defence, nscrupulous It will be ns so dex- r^aluable on he took the nd when he able for the n so far he ion in the !an political las hurt the s damnified the popular agency by vents have aed against us. The very events which have broken up the Union may resolve its fragments into a new combination more formidable and more aggressive. The course open to Canada, which may feel once more the force of that permanent principle in the American mind, is plain. Great Britain may be too far off. She may be too much engaged to be able to aid Canada efficiently and fully. But on the borders of Canada there are provinces with great resources and a great future, which have hitherto been prevented by various considerations from welding themselves into a Confederation. The time has come now in the white heat of American strife for the adoption of the process. The Confederation of States with divers interests under a weak executive has fallen to pieces. All the more reason fpr a Confederation of States with common interests and with one governing principle. If we accept the common governing principle of all the Colonies and Provinces to be their attachment to Monarchical institutions, any pressure from the influ- ences of Uepublican institutions can but consolidate their union. Under the circumstances in which the various dis- tinct dependencies of the British Crown in the Con- tinent of North America find themselves placed, it is not surprising that the idea of a Confederation for the purposes of common defence and military corroboration should have arisen. It is surprising that it should have floated about so long, and have stirred men to action so feebly. I think it is the first notion that occurs to a stranger visiting Canada and casting about for a something to put in place of the strength which distant England cannot, and Canadians will not, aff'ord. 312 CANADA. At least, there is no sign as yet that the Canadians will quite arouse from a sleep which no fears disturb, although they liear the noise of robbers. They will not prepare for war, because they wish for peace, and it is plain enough that if war should come instead of peace, England would be too late to save them, because she would be too far. Now, let it not be supposed that any confederation of the Canadas and British North American provinces would yield such an increase of force as would enable the collective or several mem- bers of it to resist the force of the Republic of the Northern American United States — at least, not just now. But in the very conflict in which the Northern and Southern Confederations are engaged, we see the vast energy and resources of a union of States in war time as compared with the action of States not so joined : — France, Great Britain, Turkey, and Sardinia were associated in the war with Russia, but their power would have been much greater had they acted under a common head. There is in everv association of the States the danger of ultimate convulsions, and of death itself, whenever the Constitution and ideas of one State differ from those of another : for the diflference of con- stitution and ideas is sure to produce soon a conflict of interests and opinions which the bond of Federation cannot compress. In the two Canadas there are certaip. opposing principles at work which have interfered with harmonious action at times. These might receive greater vitality and power on each side if the cohesion of the British dependencies were not complete. The religious questions which now are mixed with questions of race would perhaps acquire development, and become more active and more mischievous. But the actual poj W( th^ tol mi 80^ lai THE PROVINCES. 313 'anadians will liars disturb, They will not ice, and it is ead of peace, , because she )sed that any ritish North L increase of everal mera- ublic of the 3ast, not just he Northern , we see the tates in war ates not so nd Sardinia their power ;ted under a tion of the nd of death )f one State nee of con- i conflict of Federation ! are certaiji rfered with jht receive le cohesion •lete. The h questions md become the actual positive visible dangers of non-Confederation are more weighty than those which may come by-aud-by from the adoption of a common central government subject to the Crown. Setting out with the principle of sub- mission to the Throne — with the recognition of the sovereignty of the monarch of Great Britain and Ire- land — witli the full acknowledgment of the rights and prerogatives pertaining to the Crown — with the charters of their several and collective liberties in their posses- sion, the only great schism to be apprehended is one which might arise from the exercise of Parliamentary control over the action of the Confederation, because colonists will never admit that the Parliament can stand in the place of the Crown. Let us take a glance at the vast area, and consider the importance of the various colonies which own now no bond of connection, except a common obedience to the Queen, in order that we may appreciate their strength as a Confederation. The Province of New Brunswick contains just 28,000 square miles ; it lies between 45° and 48° lat. (north), and 63° 45' and 67° 50' long, (west), washed on the east by the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and on the south by those of the Bay of Fundy. It has a very extensive seaboard, not less than two-thirds being maritime ; whilst on the west it is bounded by the frontier of the State of Maine, and on the north by Lower Canada. The population in 1851 was 193,000, and it probably is not less, now than 225,000 souls. The boastfulness of the Americans, and more especially of New Englanders, in all that relates to their country, causes us to overlook the progress of our own colo- nies; and we shall be surprised to find the increase of 314 CANADA. people in New Brunswick has been greater tl) ^n that of Vermont, Maine, or New Hampshire, by an average of 10 per cent, within the decade up to 1851. The Government is vice-monarchical and parliamentary ; the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province being Commander- in-Chief, Admiral, and Chancellor. His ministers are the Executive Council, consisting of nine members, whose tenure of office depends on the will of the people, inasmuch as they must retire on a vote of want of confidence. The Parliament consists of the Legis- lative Council, which is somewhat analogous to the House of Peers. It is composed of 21 members, who arc appointed by the Crown durante placito, but who usually hold office for life. Although the Peers of Par- liament are in one sense nominated by the Crown, they are legislators durante vita, and cannot be removed from their functions by the Crown, and in other respects there are defects in an analogy between them and the House of Lords. The House of Assembly, consisting of 41 members, is elected every four years by the people of the fourteen counties, and of the city of St. John. The House levies taxes and duties, and regulates the expenditure and internal affairs of the Province ; but the Legislative Council may reject all its measures except those relating to money matters, and the assent of the Governor-General is needed to all measures whatever. But it does not follow that the consent of Council, Assembly, and Lieutenant-Governor will do more than stamp the measure with the popular and official imprimatur in the eyes of the Home Govern- ment, because Her Majesty in Council may reject any law whatever. It is rather in theory than in practice, however, that such an exercise of prerogative exists; bu tw lat SOI NEW BRUNSWICK. 815 jater tli^n that , by an average to 1851. The iamentary ; the ig Commander- s ministers are line members, le will of the a vote of want of the Legis- ilogous to the members, who acito, but who ! Peers of Par- le Crown, they t be removed and in other )etween them of Assembly, 3ry four years id of the city id duties, and iflFairs of the lay reject all ►ney matters, is needed to )llow that the ant- Governor li the popular ome Govern- ay reject any I in practice, jative exists; ))ut in case of any marked difference of opinion be- tween the Home Government and the Colonial Legis- lature, it is obvious that such a power, however con- sonant with monarchical right and tradition, might cause serious antagonism and create wide breaches. The risk of such disturbing influences would, of course, be diminished by the action of a general government. It is little more than 100 years since u number of English settlers and colonists, then loyal, coming from Massachusetts, sailed from Newbury Fort to the coast of New Brunswick, which had been ceded by France to the British in 1713. Constantly menaced by the French Canadians, the few English who represented the Crown could scarcely be considered to hold the most attenuated possession of the Province, until the French were obliged finally to cede all claims to the possession of an acknowledged i itionalityin British North America. The English maintained that the whole tract of country now known as Nova Scotia and New Brunswick belonged to the Crown by virtue of the discoveries of Sebastian Cabot j but the French were the first to found permanent settlements, and certainly gave good reason why Acadia, as they termed the district, despite its frosts and snows and long lugubrious winters, should belong to the ficur-dc'lys. As soon as Wolfe's victory had estab- lished the power of England, the enterprising spirit of the New Euglunders led them to undertake settlements in these neglected regions. They carried with them what they had derived from the old country — a love of law, not of litigation ; the forms of justice in the courts which administered its substance: — a magistracy, a police, a moral life and social liberty ; these were pos- sessed by the settlers at a time when the vast majority .316 CANADA. <5- of the people of Ireland was deprived of any sem- blance of such rights ; and when Scotland, unsuccessful in her last effort for legitimacy and the Divine right of kings, was just recovering from the swoon into which she had fallen as the last volleys rolled away from Culloden. The j.7ew Englanders who settled INIangerville and civilised Sunbury were loyal to the Crown in the revolt of the colonies ; they formed a nucleus round which gathered many of the New England Tories and their families, so that in 1783 it was considered expedient by the Government to locate those who were called loyalis: g, and who shook the dust off their feet at the door oL the New Republic, along the cleared settlements adj':*ining the Bay of Fundy and the water of St. John. It is strange that the first newspaper should have been printed by these outcasts at a time when there were scarcely half-a-dozen journals known in the mother country ; but the peculiar circumstances under which these immigrants were placed no doubt developed the energies of a press which was not shackled by any political censorship. Tlie wealth of the people lay around them ; their mines were in the forest, and the axe provided them with currency. To Sir Guy Carlton, the first Governor, when New Brunswick received a distinct Charter and a new Constitution and was sepa- rated from Nova Scotia, in 1788, must be conceded the credit of having nursed for twenty years, with singular care and success, the infancy of the colony : — a succes- sion of Presidents or Governors and Councillors, whose names are reproduced in the history of the American colonies, — such men as Beverley, Robinson, Putman, Winslow, and Ludlow, — succeeded in the charge, and gn nil Ch vid plo til THE TEMPERATURE 317 d of any sem- id, unsuccessful le Divine right lie swoon into ys rolled away angerville and n in the revolt s round which »ries and their ered expedient 10 were called tieir feet at the 'ed settlements Jr of St. John, uld have been len there were n the mother under which developed the ckled by any le people lay rest, and the Guy Carlton, ck received a ind was sepa- conceded the with singular y : — a succes- cillors, whose he American on, Putman, charge, and gradually developed the resources of tne rising com- m unity. Fire has wrought more than one great wrong to this land of frost and snow. Yet it would not be just to describe New Bruns\fick as a Siberia. From Christmas to March the country is tolerably well pro- vided with a coating of snow. From April to INIay ploughing and seed time last, and before October the harvests are generally gathered in. A glorious autumn yields to the rainfalls of November, and these in their turn harden to sleet and snow in December ; but, after all, nearly seven months give space for sowing, ploughing, reaping, and saving. The New Brunswickers, indeed, believe that the very seve- rity of the frost in winter tends to render the cultiva- tion of the land more easy than it is in Britain ; and certainly rainfalls, and all the variableness of climate, do more injury in England than they do in New Brunswick. The greatest ranges of temperature are in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, where thev reach from 20° below zero to 90° above it ; the highest tempera- ture at St. John may be reckoned at 80°, the lowest at 14°. There are about 180 clear days and 120 cloudy day'} in the year, and the snow-storms rarely last more than two days at a time. Now here is a region to which one would think the bedrenched Highlander, the betaxed Englishman, and much-vexed Irishman would resort in myriads. And there is land for many. At least 6,000,000 acres of land suited for crops and wood settlements are still to be disposed of. For half-a-crown a man may buy an acre of land, but of that sum only l^d. is demanded on sale; and the remainder may be paid in instalments extending over 318 CANADA. three years. The sales of the country lands are monthly. If the settler likes to pay on the spot he can have his land for 2s. an acre. Think of that, con- acre men of Tipperary and Leitrim ! Think of that, farmers of the Lothians, of tenants of the Highland straths ! Shall I ask the men of Dorsetshire and East Gloucester to think of it too ? Nor need they fear to change their mode of life, except it be for the better, after the first rude work of labour is done ; nor need they fear to suffer from climate or disease. Typhus will cease to kill — fever and dysentery to decimate. And if the settler has kinsmen and friends willing to join with him, he can claim for himself and each of them 100 acres of land, and pay for it by the work of road-making in the new country, so that in four years, if the work set by the Commissioners be exe- cuted, each man who has been one year resident and b?»s brought ten acres into cultivation, becomes, iijso facto, owner of the whole lot of 100 acres. Now this is in a country which has been described by no incom- petent witness, not as the peer of any region on earth in the beauty of wood and water, but as the superior of the best. The St. John flows in all its grandeur through the midst of the province, and the Resti- gouch6 gives a cuarm of scenery to the forest not to be surpassed. Lakes and streams open up dell, valley, and mountain pass. Every creek in the much-in- dented coast swarms with fish. The Bay of Fundy abounds with codfish and pollock, hake, haddock, shad, herring, halibut, mackerel, eels, skate, and many other kinds of fish. The mouths of the rivers swarm with salmon, trout, striped basse, gaspereaux, shnd, and white trout. The Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Bay of CI fisl fisl TRADE OP ST. JOHN. 319 itry lands are 3n the spot he k of that, con- rhink of that, the Highland ;shire and East 3d they fear to for the better, one ; nor need jase. Typhus ' to decimate. 3nds willing to f and each of ; by the work ) that in four ioners be exe- • resident and becomes, ijjso es. Now this by no incom- gion on earth the superior its grandeur the Resti- rest not to be dell, valley, he much-in- ay of Fundy iddock, shad, I many other swarm with ^.d, and white the Bay of Chaleurs yield nearly every description of valuable fish, as well as lobsters, crabs, oysters, and other shell- fish. The Province receives nearly 100,000Z. a year in exchange for the fish packed in ice, or cured and ex- ported to foreign countries. Its wealth in timber is incalculable, because the value rises gradually with the demand for the produce of its forests all over the world, and, with prudent management, these forests may be considered as inexhaustible. Coal of a bituminous character has been worked for some years past in several districts ; iron, manganese, lead, and copper, also exist in considerable quantities, and the mineral produce of the Province will no doubt add much to its import- ance as the works receive greater development. Although the trade of shipbuilding does not show a regular increase, the size of the vessels built at St. John and Miramichi has been increasing. Upwards of 100 ships were launched at these ports in 1860, with a measurement of 41,000 tons, and were worth upwards of 320,000/. Various branches of trade have obtained respectable dimensions and are growing stea- dily. Fredericton, the capital of the Province, is situated on the St. John, eighty-two miles from the sea, where the navigation for sea-going ships may be regarded as at an end. The number of great lakes which are available for internal commerce and trans- port complete the facilities offered by the river system and by the main roads, the latter of which have been liberally promoted by the Province. The water power of the colony is boundless. Education is provided by the Legislature, so that the poorest man can give his children the advantage of a sound instruction almost without cost. Religion is free, and the voluntary i i' j i 1 1 ! I i^! 320 CANADA. system mitigates the animosity of sects. Emigrants from the South of Ireland have found here all the con- ditions of prosperity, and have turned them to good account. Scotch and English thrive exceedingly. Indeed, if it were not that the greater clamour and bustle of the United States had succeeded in over- powering the appeals of New Brunswick to the favour of the emigrant, many thousands of our countrymen would have there found the eas ' and comfort which they have sought in vain under the rule of the Republic. The very name, New Brunswick, has no doubt repelled settlers. A "^^ew Brunswick ship they know nothing of even if they s: j one, and the name itself rarely reaches their ears. Nova Scotia formerly comprised the Province of New Brunswick, but is now reduced to the length of 256 miles, and the breadth of 100 miles. The island of Cape Breton, which belongs to it, is 100 miles long, and 72 broad. The area of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton is over 18,000 square miles. The popula- tion is estimated at 370,000, the Census of 1861 having given 330,860 and the ratio of increase having been on an average of four per cent, per annum ; but emi- grants are rarely attracted to the colony. In 1861, of the people, 294,000 were native Nova Scotians, 16,000 were of Scottish, 9,000 of Irish, 3,000 of Enghsh origin ; France, which founded the colony, had only 88 representatives on land. The English Church had 48,000 members, the Scotch Church numbered 88,000, the Church of Rome 80,000 ; there were 56,000 Baptists, 34,000 Wesleyans, and, wonderful to say, only 3 Deists. When it is considered that the coal-fields of Nova CLIMATE OF NOVA SCOTIA. 321 ts. Emigrants I ere all the con- i them to good e exceedingly, r clamour and Bcded in over- t to the favour ur countrymen comfort which »f the Republic, doubt repelled now nothing of ' rarely reaches e Province of the length of s. The island is 100 miles va Scotia and The popula- )f 1861 having having been im; but emi- ly. In 1861, ova Scotians, 00 ofEnghsh ■, had only 88 Charch had bered 88,000, ,000 Baptists, Duly 3 Deists. ;ld8 of Nova Scotia are the finest in the world, that her mining wealth is extraordinary, that her seas, lakes, and rivers teem with fish, that her forests yield the finest timber, that the soil gives an ample return to the farmer, and the earth is full of mineral resources, it is sur- prising that emigrants of limited means have not been tempted to try their fortune, in spite of the threatening skies and somewhat rigid winters. Nearly five millions and a half acres of land are still in the hands of the Crown, of which up^vards of four million acres are open for settlement, and the average price is about l.s. Sd. an acre. From a very trustworthy work prepared by Messrs. Iliud, Keefer, Ilodgins, Robb, Perley, and the Rev. Wra. Murray, to which I am indebted for much valuable information, it would appear that the climate of Nova Scotia is by no means so severe as it is reported to be, both in Great Britain and the United States. Though, at some seasons, the weather is very severe, as compared with England, Ireland, the South of Scotland, and a great portion of the United States of America, still it is more conducive to health than the milder but more humid corresponding seasons in those countries. The lenjirth and severity of Nova Scotia winters are greatly compensated by the mildness and beauty of autumn — which is protracted, not unfrequently, into the middle of December — as well as by the months of steady sleighing which follow. The extreme of cold is 24" Fahr. below zero ; the extreme of heat, 95° above, in the shade. These extremes have not been often attained to of late years. The mean tem- perature of the year is 43°. There are about 100 days in which the, temperature is above 70^ in summer. There are about twenty nights in the year in which the I, 1 , I ■I'M Mil 322 CANADA. temperature is below zero. The coldest season is from the last week of December till the first week of March. The following table exhibits the annual mean temper- ature of several European cities, as compared with Halifax, Nova Scotia, and Toronto, C.W. : — a1 Latitude. Fahrenheit. 44° 40' . . . Halifax . . . 43-8 43 39 . . . Toronto . . . 44-4 52 31 . . . Berlin . . . 475 63 23 . . . Dublin . . . 49-1 60 7 . . . Frankfort . . 49-5 49 39 . . . Cherbourg . . . 52-1 MEAN SUMMER TEMPERATURE. Fahrenheit. Halifax 62-0 Toronto 64*5 Greenwich 60"9 Berlin 63'2 Cherbourg 61-9 The annual quantity of rain which falls is about forty-one inches. Of this quantity about six and a half inches fall in the form of snow. The annual depth of snow is eight and a half feet. Much of this quantitj'^ of snow is not allowed to rest long in its solid form. There are about 114 days of rain on the average in each year ; much of this occurs in winter. The average number of days of snow in each year is about sixty. Violent tempests are not of frequent occurrence in Nova Scotia. The prevailing winds are the south-west, west, and north-west. In summer the north, north- west, and west winds are cool and dry. In winter they are cold and piercing. The south and south-west are mild — agreeable — delightful. The north-east brings the greatest snow-storms ; the east and south-east the most disagreeable rain-storms. Spring commences in AGllICrLTURE OF NOVA SCOTIA. 323 season is from eek of March, mean temper- impared with 'ahrenheit. 43-8 . 44-4 47-5 , 49-1 49-5 52-1 ahrenheit. . 62-0 64-5 . 60-9 63-2 , 61-9 ialls is about it six and a annual depth this quantity s solid form. 5 average in The average about sixtv. icurrence in south-'west, lorth, north- winter they ith-west are east brings ith-east the mmences in Nova Scotia with the beginning of April. Seedtime and planting continue till the middle of June. Sum- mer begins with the latter part of June, and embraces July and August. Vegetation is very rapid in the middle and western parts of the province, where the hay crop, and usually nearly all the grain crops, are harvested by the last week of August or first week of September. Autumn is the finest season in Nova Scotia. It is mild, serene, and cool enough to be bracing, and the atmosphere is of a purity that renders it peculiarly exhilarating and health-giving. The '* Indian summer " occurs sometimes as late as the middle of November, and lasts from three to ten days. The winter in Nova Scotia may be said* to com- prise ahout four months. It begins, some seasons, with the 1st of December, and runs into the month of April. In other seasons it begins in the middle of December and ends with the last of March. The mean temperature of spring is 49°j of summer, 62"; of autumn, 35°; of winter, 22°. Similarity in agricultural productions furnishes a very fair criterion for the comparison of the climates of different countries. Wheat, rye, oats, barley, buck- wheat, Indian corn, potatoes, turnips, mangel-wurzel, tomatoes, and other roots and grains grow in abundance and perfection in Nova Scotia. Apples, pears, plums, cherries, and u multitude of smaller garden-fruits attain the utmost perfection. In some sections of the country peaches and grapes ripen in the open air. The climate of Nova Scotia is highly favourable both to health and length of days. Men and women frequently attain to the age of eighty years with the full possession of their mental faculties, and in excellent bodilv health. It is not unusual to find men enjoying good health at ninety; T 2 324 CANADA. and not a few reach one hundred years, while some pass that extreme boundary. Let the proportion of deaths to population in Nova Scotia be compared with that in Great Britain and the State of llhodc Island : — Nova Scotia, 1 in 7071, or less tlmn 14 per cent. Rhode Island, 1 in 46'11, or more tlmn 2 „ Great Britain, 1 iu 44*75, or more than 2 „ The climate of Nova Scotia is not noted for the generation of any disease peculiar to itself. Diphtheria has, of late years, been its most terrible scourge. Prince Edwjird Island — called so after the father of Queen Victoria — is another member of the great group of British colonies and dependencies. This island, which is about 130 miles long and 30 miles broad, has less than 100,000 inhabitants. It contained less than 5,000 souls in 1770, when it was separated from the govern- ment of Nova Scotia, and was erected into an inde- pendent province under unfavourable circumstances, arising out of the unfortunate conditions which were made when the land was allotted to the original pro- prietors. The early history of the colony afforded a remarkable exemplification of wrong-doing with good intentions, and the errors of the first English rulers who regulated the settlement of the province were not atoned for till many years of patient eflfort on the part of the people had been devoted to a removal of abuses. The island is under a Governor named by the Crown, whose Cabinet consists of an Executive Council of nine, selected from the Legislative Council and from the House of Assembly, the former consisting of twelve, the latter of thirty members, elected by the people. THE RED RIVER DISTRICT. 325 's, while some proportion of Jompared with lodc Ishind : — per cent. )> noted for the f. Diphtheria icourge. ' the father of le great group This island, broad, has less ss than 5,000 n the govern- nto an inde- ircumstances, whieh were original pro- y aflforded a g with good nglish rulers nee were not t on the part 'al of abuses. r the Crown, mcil of nine, d from the of twelve, B people. Newfoundland is 420 miles long, and has an extreme breadth of 300 miles. The population is now about 130,000. Notwithstanding its name, there is reason to believe that it was known to Icelanders and Norwegians, to Vikings and Danes, four centuries before Cabot came upon his Bonavista. The early history of our connec- tion with this great island is not creditable to those who had influence with the home authorities. In 1832, following the principle of universal suffrage, which was considered applicable to a colony, though it was rejected at home, a Legislative system was erected on the basis of manhood franchise, the only qualifica- tion being that the voter should have been a year in the same house. The Governor, who is of course a representative and nominee of the Crown, is assisted by an Executive Council of five members, and the Parliament consists of a Legislative Council of twelve and a House of Assembly of thirty members. There exists on the west of Canada a vast region which may, perhaps, become great and flourishing in less time than the districts which, inhabited by red men and wild beasts in 1776, now form some of the most important of the North and South American States. It is one of the very greatest of the evils connected with our parliamentary system, that small or local interests at home are likely to receive attention in pre- ference to the largest general interests of dependencies. The Colonial Office is a sort of buffer between Parlia- ment and the shocks of colonial aggressions and demands ; and the Chancellor of the Exchequer can at any time find easy means of squelching any ten- ;35iC CANADA. ii'ii (leucy in the cliancellc - of a barbarian administration "to dip his finger'' inu- the Imperial purse. Now, when "the People of uva lliver settlement'' address a memorial to the liritish and Canadian Governments with the view of obtaining a road to open up the wonderfully fine country they inhabit to British sub- jects and to commerce, without dependency on the United States, it may so happen that at the period in question the smallest claim of a metropolitan borough shall be considered of far greater preponderance; nor will the Government or the Colonial Office at any time be much disposed to irritate a friendly member who is inimical to colonies, or to provoke the animosity of economists, for an object which is as intangible and in- comprehensible to the mass of Parliament as a project to run a railway to Eutopia, or to connect Timbuctoo with China. Mr. Sandford Fleming, who has been selected as the agent of these very settlers, has set forth their case with much ability; but he will scarce become the Lesseps of this overland Suez, unless some members of the House, who really look beyond the interests of the day, and take heed for the future of the Empire, can be induced to listen to his facts and arguments. In 1863 a statement was submitted by that gentleman to Lord Monck in elucidation of the memorial of the settlers, which contains most interesting facts and some valuable arguments. Among the works of good Govern- ments the making of roads and securing of easy means of intercommunication among the people subject to them must ever be of paramount importance. The people of Red River ask for the opening of the Lake Superior route to British Columbia, and to have a tele- graphic line established, to both of which objects they THE UED IIIVER DISTIUCT. ;327 administration purse. Now, cnent" address I Governments I open up the D British sub- idency on the the period iu Dlitan borough ndcrance; nor ce at any time ncmber who is animosity of LUgible and in- nt as a project 'imbuctoo with been selected brth their case become the le members of iterests of the 3 Empire, can ^uments. In gentleman to norial of the icts and some good Govern- >f easy means le subject to rtance. The of the Lake ) have a tele- objects they Avill contribute to the best of their ability. The point of British territory nearest to the lied River settlement by water is on the northern shore of Lake Superior, 400 miles distant ; and the intervening distance can only bo traversed by a combined system of " portages " and canoe voyages so difficult and tedious as in effect to bar the access of commercial enterprise, and to chill any spirit but that of adventurous geography, amateur travel, or the search after gold and game— thus, iu fact, constituting obstacles which are well described as "prac- tically exiling the settlers for the last two generations.^' The route proposed for the links which are to connect tlio exiles with the world would be a part of the great project to connect the shores of the Atlantic and Pacific within the British possessions ; and it is maintained that the favourable character of the Red River district for such a road removes the objections which might be formed on the ground of distance and difficulty. The Hudson's Bay Company used the Pigeon River route, which runs along by the boundary of the United States, and is therefore not desirable in case of hostilities, and the Kaministiguia route, called so from the river of that name. Mr. Fleming, taking up the suggestions of Mr. Dawson in his report to the Canadian Government, recommends the creation of a territorial road from some point iu connection with the railway system, such as Ottawa, to Nipigon Bay on Lake Superior, which would be ample as a trading port, whence a stage and steamboat com- munication could be established by making 197 miles of roads and two dams — one at the outlet of Dog Lake, and the other at Little Falls ; or, by making 232 miles of road, and a couple of locks at Fort Francis, and a dam, the route might be reduced to 273 miles of water, *■ 'h ':>. 3;>S CANAl>A. it "■V if the road were puslicd on to SHvaiuic Kivcr. It must bo remembered thiit the Amcricaus have already established a route by Chicago; but an examination of the distances from Toronto shows that the Lake Supe- rior route would save no less than 715 miles of rail, 35 of water, and 58 of road. The American route, however, possesses the advantage of having already 820 miles of rail, of which 514 carry the traveller to Chicago from Toronto, and 800 convey him from Chicago to Prairie La Crosse ; whereas there is only a length of 95 miles open in Canada, from Toronto westwards to CoUing- wood. There is also an American route by Detroit, Mil- waukee, and La C'osse to Foit Garry, 1090 miles long, but that is still Oiu miles longer than the communica- tion which could be made bv means of 232 miles of road, the construction of a dam and the locks in ques- tion. Ijabour might be tempted by offering, as is suggested, blocks of 100 acres to settlers on condition of their giving ten days' work in each year for ten years on the road, and thus preparing it for a railway track ; but the settlers must be more patient and easily satisfied than their language now indicates, if they are content with the prospect of such a tedious fulfilment of their wishes. They are willing to open a road 100 miles long to the Lake of Woods if England or Canada will guarantee the rest of the road to Lake Superior ; and they believe such a road would rapidly fill Central British America with an industrious loyal people, and counteract the influence of the North American Republics. Whether the grand confedera- tion which they foresee of flourishing provinces from Vancouver's Island to Nova Scotia, commanding the Atlantic and the Pacific, and keeping in line the ASSINIUOIA. a^i) nc Kivcr. It s have alrcudy jxanaiiiutioii of le Lake Supe- iles of rail, 35 oute, however, y 820 miles of Chieago from ago to Prairie th of 95 miles Is to Colling- ' Detroit, Mil- M miles long, D eommuuiea- 232 miles of locks in ques- ftering, as is on condition year for ten for a railway nt and easily , if they are 18 fulfilment )pen a road England or •ad to Lake 3uld rapidly itrious loval the North confedera- vinces from anding the 11 line the boundaries of the Republicans, be ever realised in our day, it is plain that the people will neither be JJritish nor loyal if they are neglected. The Americans have long been turning their eyes in the direction of these regions. !Mr. Sibley, the last Governor of Minnesota, ordered Mr. James W. Taylor to obtain reliable information relative to the physical aspects and other facts connected with the British possessions on the line of the overland route from Pembina, via the Red River settlement and the Saskatchewan Valley, to F^azer^s River. That gentleman's report was presented by Governor Ramsay to the Legislature of the State in 1860, with a recommendation to their attention as " relating to matters which concern in a great degree the future growth and development of our State." Mr. Taylor was received by Mr. McTavish at the Selkirk settlement with every respect and consideration. He found the British colony of Assiniboia prosperous and flourishing. Respecting that colony he says : — " Of the present community of ten thousand souls, about five thousand are competent, at this moment, to as- sume any civil or social responsibility which may be im- posed upon them. The accumulations from the fur trade during fifty years, with few excitements or opportunities of expenditure, have secured general prosperity, with frequent instances of affluence; while the numerous churches and schools sustain a high standard of morality and intelligence. " The people of Selkirk fully appreciate the advan- tages of communication with the Mississippi River and Lake Superior through the State of Minnesota. They are anxious for the utmost facilities of trade and inter- course. The navigation of the Red River by a steam- 330 CANADA. m boat during the summer of 1859 was universally recognised as marking a new era in their annals. This public sentiment was pithily expressed by the remark : 'In 1851 the Governor of Minnesota visited us; in 1859 comes a steamboat; and ten years more will bring the railroad ! ' " The persons who expressed that sentiment differed entirely from the memorialists already mentioned ; but it must be that the Selkirk people, if neglected, will incline towards the hand which is stretched out to them across the waste, no matter whence it comes. " Most amicable relations " do no doubt " exist between the trading post at Port Garry and Kitson's Station at St. Boniface;" but long as they may endure— and I trust they may be perpetual — they will not amount to a preference for Republican institutions, if the mother country seeks to secure the settlers by the most tender or subtle link of interest or regard. What change may be made in respect to the jurisdiction and powers of the Hudson's Bay Company by the home autho- rities must depend for the time on circumstances ; but the actual settlers seem to hope that the rumours which attributed to Lord Derby's Government the in- tention of organising a colony, bounded by Lakes Superior and Winnipeg on the east, by the Rocky Mountains on the west, by the American frontier on the south, and by lat. 55 deg. on the north, may yet be justified. The Canadian Government, Palliser's expe- dition, Noble's explorations, Mr. J. W. Hamilton's surveys, and a considerable number of public ana private investigations conducted in the interests or politics, commerce, religion, and geographical science, have all contributed their share to our knowledge of THE KED RIVER VALLEY, 331 was universally ir annals. This by the remark : visited us; in ears more will itiment differed dy mentioned; le, if neglected, itretched out to ence it comes. " exist between ion's Station at endure — and I lot amount to a if the mother tie most tender What change ion and powers home autho- mstances; but the rumours rnment the in- led by Lakes by the Rocky tu frontier on th, may yet be ^alliser's expe- V. Hamilton's public ana 3 interests or ihical science, knowledge of this vast territory ; and the more we know of it the more eligible it seems as a field for individual enter- prise, and an area for the exercise of legitimate Imperial ambition. From Lake "Winnipeg to the highest navigable point of Red River, which flows into the lake with a course from north to south, there is a distance of 575 miles, only interrupted by some very insignificant shoals at the mouth of Goose River and the Shayenne. Red Lake River and the Assiniboina extend the area of "coast" navigable by steamers in the Red River Valley to 900 miles— much more than is enjoyed internally by the United Kingdom and France together. Throughout the districts thus permeated by navigable rivers, rye, oats, barley, potatoes, grass, and wheat, grow as well as they do in Minnesota; and to these wild regions must be added the country along the great north Saskat- chewan, and even the region which lies between it and the Rocky Mountains in a northerly direction. When Mr. Taylor wrote his Report, there was no reason to believe that " an adjustment of the future relations of the British Provinces and of the American States on a basis of mutual good-will and interest " might not be practicable ; but Fort Sumter changed all that, we fear, and there seems little chance of such an inter- national compact as he anticipates for a customs and postal union. In reference to such an adjustment he says : — " It should, at all events, stipulate that the Recipro- city Treaty, enlarged in its provisions and renewed for a long period of years, shall be extended to the Pacific Ocean, and, in connection therewith, all laws discrimi- nating between American and foreign built vessels oq.) CANADA. should be abolished, establishing freedom of navigation on all the intermediate rivers and lakes of the respective territories. Such a policy of free trade and navigation with British America would give to the United States, and especially to the western States, all the com- mercial advantages, without the political embarrass- ments, of annexation, and would, in the sure progress of events, relieve our extended northern frontier from the horrors and injuries of war between fraternal com- munities.^' It is little to be doubted that the people of Minne- sota are very well disposed to remain on friendly terms with their neighbours ; but the Federal Government at Washington, no matter for what party or section it acts, must, by the very necessity of its being and con- ditions of power, conduct the policy of the United States in a very different spirit. It is true, our friends have, even so early, given some indications that they are prepared for eventualities. Whilst thev have not been indifferent to the erection of a military post at Pembina, some of their politicians, with a ludicrous pretence of fear from the colonists, in case of war, have called for the creation of frontier forts ; and the Indians in the north-west of Minnesota, who had a reservation, arc to be treated with the usual measure of justice used by the white skin in dealing with the red skin, and to be exterminated or driven into space as soon as convenient or practicable. Mr. Taylor, in reference to the existence of coal near the sources of the Saskatchewan, which is undoubted, admits the uncertainty of carboniferous strata in the ridges between the Minnesota and the Red River north of the Mississippi and Saskatchewan, though there are MINNESOTA AND THE WEST. 333 1 of navigation r the respective Find navigation Upited States, ali the com- ;al embarrass- sure progress I frontier from fraternal com- ple of Minne- friendly terms I Government V or section it eing and con- )f the United le, our friends ons that they o the erection jir politicians, e colonists, in n of frontier jf Minnesota, dth the usual in in dealing ted or driven icable. Mr. coal near undoubted, strata in the River north gh there are geological reasons to hold that they will be found there. In justice to the spirit in which this lleport is conceived, I quote the concluding passages : — " The allusion just made to the exploring expedition conducted under the authority of Canada, justifies a tribute to the zeal and intelligence with which the enterprise of an emigration and transportation route, from Fort William on the north f^hore of Lake Superior, to Fort Garry, is prosecuted. With the civil organisation of Central British America, a waggon road between those points, to be followed by a railroad, will re- ceive all requisite encouragement, certainly from the Canadian Treasury, perhaps by the efficient co-operation of the Home Govern'^ nt. The North-west Transit Company, acting under a Canadian charter, but under- stood to have enlisted London capitalists, is expc 'ted to resume operations during the summer of 1860. These movements of our provincial neighbours cannot fail to influence the policy of Minnesota in favour of more satisfactory communications than we now possess between Lake Superior and the ciiannels of the Upper Mississippi and the Red River of the north. " I desire, in conclusion, to express my obligations to the late Executive of Minnesota, for the confidence implied by the commission, to which the foregoing is a response. Believing firmly that the prosperity and development of this State is intimately associated with the destiny of North-west British America, I am gratified to record the rapid concurrence of events which indicate that the frontier, hitherto resting upon the sources of the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi, is soon to be pushed far beyond the international frontier by the march of Anglo-Saxon civilisation.' \mi\ )) 334 CANADA. It is indeed "a country worth fighting for;" and whether the contest be carried on by the slow processes of immigration or by the ruder agencies o. neglect, the conqueror and the conquered will have reason to regard the result with very decided sentiments of joy or sorrow at no distant time. In the language of the report of the New York Chamber of Com- merce — " There is in the heart of North America a distinct sub-division, of which Lake Winnipeg may be regarded as the centre. This sub-division, like the valley of the Mississippi, is distinguished for the fertility of its soil, and for the extent and gentle slope of its great plains, Avatered by rivers of great length, and admirably adapted for steam navigation. It has a climate not exceeding in severity that of many portions of Canada and the eastern States. It will, in all respects, compare favourably with some of the most densely peopled portions of the continent of Europe. In other words, it is admirably fitted to become the seat of a numerous, hardy, and prosperous community. It has an area equal to eight or ten first- class American States. Its great river, the Saskat- chewan, carries a navigable water-line to the very base of the llocky Mountains. It is not at all improbable that the valley of this river may yet offer the best route for ti railroad to the Pacific. The navigable waters of this great sub-division interlock with those of the Mis- sissippi. The Red Kiver of the north, in connection with Lake Winnipeg, into which it falls, forms a navi- gable water-line, extending directly north and south nearly eight hundred miles. The Red River is one of the best adapted to the use of steam in the .vorld, and waters one of the finest regions on the continent. THE Hudson's bay company. sa5 lug for;" and slow processes es o. neglect, have reason to timents of joy e language of iber of Com- orth America ike Winnipeg 5 sub-division, 5tinguished for ent and gentle •ivers of great .m navigation. 7 that of many ates. It will, [1 some of the continent of bly fitted to nd prosperous it or ten first- the Saskat- the very base ill improbable the best route ible Avaters of le of the Mis- n connection forms a navi- h and south ,iver is one of le .vorld, and e continent. Between the highest point at which it is navigable, and St. Paul, on the Mississippi, a railroad is in process of construction ; and when this road is completed, another grand division of the continent, comprising haK a million square miles, will be open to settlement." It would be unjust to the Hudson's Bay Company to refuse them the praise due to the efforts of their servants in exploring the vast region over which they ruled, and to the constancy with which they have resisted aggression -, but as the privileges of that body have now become part of the stock-in-trade of a great mercantile association, there can be no reason for doubting that a change of policy, in consonance with the tone of the governing sentiment of the age, will take place, and that the interests of free trade, and the more extensive interests connected with Imperial and Colonial progress and with colonisation itself, will be found not incompatible. When the ichthyophilists of London betake themselves, in the leafy month of June, to Gravesend, in search of the placid turtle or the strenuous shrimp, they may be startled by the booming of guns from the bosom of the river, and by certain loud cheers from two strict-rigged craft anchored in the stream. A gaily-decked river-steamer, from the flag-staflf of which flutters a hieroglyph in blue and white, with the motto, "Pro pelle cutem,'' is lying along- side the larger of the two. On board the steamer are many sorts and conditions of men — the friends of directors, outlying members of both Houses, old salts and older commercial personages, and men wearing the bright, crisp, clean look of prosperous clerkdom. These circulate from the deck of the steamer to the broader expanse of the vessel alongside, where a stout weather- ;| 336 CANADA. beaten crew are drawn up, listening to the recital of articles. Dipping down the companion it is probable that the visitor will find in the captain's cabin an assem- blage of gentlemen, eating biscuit and drinking sherry to the health of the skipper, whilst others are peering into compartments and berths 'twixt bulkheads filled ■with odd merchandise, from gas-pipe-barrelled guns to needles, anchors, blankets, crinoline, and artificial flowers. They are people whom we might meet in any place in London from west to east, wearing the inde- scribable air of men " out for the day." On deck are some old-fashioned brass-bound boxes, inscribed " Hud- son's Bay Company," guarded by very ancient and fish- like attendants, in a red and blue livery. The steamer leaves the blufl* double- cased sides of the vessel for a visit to her consort, for the two ships now-a-days form the sum total of the fleet sailing annually to the Hudson's Bay settlements, where once there was a flotilla of smaller craft, dressed in all their bravery of flags, and making old Gravesend re-echo to their salvos as they went forth on that which was then a dubious and adventurous voyage. Then, after much leave-taking, and drinking of anchor cups, the steamer starts, amid the cheers of the outward-bound crew, for the Nore, to enjoy a little fresh air before she comes back to the Falcon at Gravesend, where the annual dinner is held, and where many good speeches are made and friendly sentiments expressed in support of the Hudson's Bay Company. The sagacious face of old Edward Ellice, seamed with the fine graver of thought, and plastic still as in youth, for many a long year fixed men's eyes with kindly regard; and the mitis sapientia of his counsels, his unrivalled tact, albeit the exquisite touch THE HUDSON UY TERRITORY. 337 ) the recital of it is probable sabin an assem- [Irinking sherry lers are peering (ulkheads filled barrelled guns ), and artificial ;ht meet in any iring the inde- * On deck are iscribed " Hud- Qcient and fish- . The steamer vessel for a visit -days form the the Hudson's as a flotilla of of flags, and salvos as they dubious and leave-taking, er starts, amid )r the Nore, to s back to the dinner is held, and friendly Hudson's Bay dward Ellice, nd plastic still d men's eyes pientia of his xquisite touch lay inside a shagreen gh and his great ability in the conduct of aff'airs, gaA lie Company that which Rupert's charters, Chark parchments, or prescriptive rights, never could hav ocured so long. It was under Sir .. L. Bulwer's administration of foreign affairs that the most strenuous attempt was made by the Government to adjust the conflicting claims of Canada and Great Britain with those of the Hudson's Bay Company, by the decision of the Judicial Committee of Privy Council; but the Company, though always willing to enter into an arrangement with the Govern- ment for the adjustment of contending interests, uni- formly and not unwisely refused to accept any arbitra- tion or judgment involving the question of the validity of their charters. The refusal of Parliament to renew the exclusive right of trading, in 1859, and the assumption of the control of Vancouver's Island by the Crown on the expiration of the lease in the same year, were heavy blows at the vested interests of the Company, which deprived its cessio bonorum to the English Credit Mobilier, in 1863, of great political im- portance, though enormous commercial results may still be obtained from the extension of trading and from settling and gold-exploring operations. When the speedy colonisation and rapid rise of British Columbia caused some attention to be directed towards the means of getting there, and of cultivating an ac- ' quaintance promising such great advantages, and it was found that from east to west two routes were practicable, it was not surprising if jealousy and alarm were aroused because the Americans, by further re- presentations, unhappily baseless, respecting the energy of the initiative taken by Canada and England, had h?4 338 CANADA. first started to clear the way to the west, and to open communications with the Red River settlement, en route. Fort Garry, in the Selkirk settlement, was first visited by a steamer from the American post of Fort Abercrombie, in 1859, Minnesota was a State which had the advantage of a continental existence on the soil of the Great Republic. " Organised as a territory in 1849, a single decade had brought the popjia-ion, the resources, and the public recogni- •"' '"** an American State. A railroad system, con- 1: ;tir g the lines of the Lake States and Provinces at La Ciisse with the international frontier on the Red River at Pembina, was not only projected, but had secured in aid of its construction a grant by the Congress of the United States of three thousand eight hundred and forty acres a mile, and a loan of State credit to the amount of twenty thousand dollars a mile, not exceeding an aggregate of five million dollars. Different sections of this important extension of the Canadian and American railways were under contract and in process of construction. In addition, the land surveys of the Federal Government had reached the navigable channel of the Red River ,• and the line of frontier settlement, attended by a weekly mail, had advanced to the same point. Thus the Government of the United States, no less than the people and authorities of Minnesota, were represented in the north-west movement." No matter how prosperous a colony of Great Britain may be, a colony it must be so long as it is not inde- pendent. The first result of the prosperity of an American colony is its independence as a State, and its incorporation as a member of the common sovereignty. THE NORTH-WESTERN REGIONS. 339 west, and to ver settlement, settlement, was nerican post of ta was a State ental existence " Organised as ad brought the public recogni- ,d system, con- and Provinces frontier on the projected, but )n a grant by three thousand , and a loan of housand dollars of five million irtant extension ys -were under I. In addition, 3vernment had led River ; and 3d by a weekly nt. Thus the less than the ere represented ■ Great Britain it is not inde- )sperity of an State, and its )n sovereignty. The distinction arises from geographical considerations, but it is not the less potent — I shall not yet say, more to be regretted. The retention of Canada would be of little value to us if there were to the west of it a great and populous community, absorbing its capital, labour, and enterprise for the benefit of aliens, and if to the south there were a series of States animated by an intense political dislike to the mother country. But there is, as they say in Ireland, " the makings *' of four free and independent States, on the American model of Ohio, in that district between the valleys of the North and South Saskatchewan. In 1858 an A 'nerican writer again described the region which tne British Government, the Colonial Office, and the imperialism of bureaux, inclined to cast away without even a mess of pottage. That writer says : — " Here is the great fact of the norti nrestern areas of this continent. An area not inferior in size to the whole United States east of the Mississippi, which is perfectly adapted to the fullest occupation by cultivated nations, yet is almost wholly unoccupied, lies west of the 98th meridian, and above the 43rd parallel, that is, north of the latitude of Milwaukee, and west of the longitude of Red River, Fort Kearney, and Corpus Christi ; or, to state the fact in another way, east of the Rocky Mountains, and west of the 98th meridian, and between the 43rd and 60th parallels, there is a productive, cultivable area of 500,000 square miles. West of the Rocky Mountains and between the same parallels, there is an area of 300,000 square miles. " It is a great mistake to suppose that the tempera- ture of the Atlantic coast is carried straight across the continent to the Pacific. The isothermals deflect z 2 340 CANADA. greatly to the nortli, and the temperatures of the Northern Pacific are paralleled in the high tempera- tures in high latitudes of Western and Central Europe. The latitudes which inclose the plateaus of the Mis- souri and Saskatchewan, in Europe inclose the rich central plains of the Continent. The great grain growing districts of Russia lie hetwecn the 45th and GOth parallel, that is, north of the latitude of St. Paul, Minnesota, or Eastport, Maine. Indeed, the temperature in some instances is higher for the same latitudes here than in Central Europe. The isothermal of 70 deg. for the summer, which on our plateau ranges from along latitude 50 deg. to 52 deg., in Europe skirts through Vienna and Odessa in about parallel 46 deg. The isothermal of 55 deg. for the year runs along the coast of British Columbia, and does not go far from New York, London, and Sebastopol. Furthermore, dry areas are not found above 47 deg., and there are no barren tracts of consequence north of the Bad Lands and the Coteau of the Missouri ; the land grows grain finely, and is well wooded. All the grains of the temperate districts are here produced abundantly, and Indian corn may be grown as high as the Saskat- chewan. " The buffalo winters as safely on the upper Athabasca as in the latitude of St. Paul, and the spring opens at nearly the same time along the immense line of plains from St. Paul to Mackenzie's River. To these facts, for which there is the authority of Blodgett's Treatise on the Climatology of the United States, may be added this, that to the region bordering the Northern Pacific, the finest maritime positions belong throughout its entire extent, and no part of the west of Europe CLIMATE OP WLN'NIIM'O DASIX. 311 peratures of the le high tempcra- Ceutral Europe. 3aus of the Mis- inclose the rich rhc great grain en the 45th and latitude of St. e. Indeed, the her for the same The isothermal ir plateau ranges in Europe skirts parallel 46 deg. • runs along the lot go far from Furthermore, J., and there are pth of the Bad the land grows he grains of the ibundantly, and as the Saskat- ipper Athabasca spring opens umense line of iver. To these of Blodgett's ted States, may g the Northern )ng throughout rest of Europe exceeds it in the advantages of equable climate, fertile soil, and commercial accessibility of coast. "We have the same excellent authority for the statement that in every condition forming the basis of national wealth, the continental mass lying westward and northward from Lake Superior is far more valuable than the interior in lower latitudes, of which Salt Lake and Upper New Mexico are the prominent known districts. In short, its commercial and industrial capacity is gigantic. Its occupation was coeval with the Spanish occupation of New Mexico and California." The climate of this district is at least as favourable to the agriculturist as that of Kingston, Upper Canada, and is quite salubrious. Special science thus describes it:— Professor Hind, who spent two summers in the country in charge of an expedition sent out by the Canadian Government, writes: "The basin of Lake Winnipeg extends over twenty-eight degrees of longitude, and ten degrees of latitude. The elevation of its eastern boundary, at the Prairie Portage, 104 miles west of Lake Superior, is 1480 feet above the sea, and the height of land at the Vermillion Pass is less than 5000 feet above the same level. The mean length of this great inland basin is about 920 English miles, and its mean breadth 380 miles ; hence its area is approximately 360,000 square miles, or a little more than that of Canada. " Lake Winnipeg, at an altitude of 628 feet above the sea, occupies the lowest depression of this great inland basin, covering Avith its associated lakes, Mani- tobah, Winnipegosis, Dauphin, and St. Martin, an area slightly exceeding 13,000 square miles, or nearly 842 CANADA. m I i half as much of the earth's surface as is occupied by Ireland. " The outlet of Lake Winnipeg is through the con- tracted and rocky channel of Nelson River, which flows into Hudson's Bay. "The country, possessing a mean elevation of 100 feet above Lake Winnipeg, is very closely represented by the outline of Pembina Mountain, forming part of the eastern limit of the cretaceous series in the north- west of America. " The area occupied by this low country, which includes a large part of the valley of Red River, the Assiniboine, and the main Saskatchewan, may be esti- mated at 70,000 square miles, of which nine-tenths are lakes, marsh, or surface rock of Silurian or Devonian age, and, generally so thinly covered with soil as to be unfit for cultivation, except in small isolated areas. " Succeeding this low region there are the narrow terraces of the Pembina Mountain, which rise in abrupt steps, except in the valleys of the Assiniboine, Valley River, Swan River, and Red Deer's River, to the level of a higher plateau, whose eastern limit is formed by the precipitous escarpments of the Riding, Duck, and Porcupine Mountains, with the detached outliers. Turtle, Thunder, and Pasquia Mountains. This is the great prairie plateau of Rupert's Land ; it is bounded towards the south-west and west by the Grand Coteau de Missouri, and the extension of the tableland between the two branches of the Saskatchewan, which forms the eastern limit of the plains of the north-west. The area of the prairie plateau, in the basin of Lake Winnipeg, is about 120,000 square miles; it possesses a mean elevation of 1100 feet above the sea. 5 ?! |i 1i AUKA OF WINNiPEQ BASIN. 310 occupied by figli the con- ', which flows I'ation of J 00 represented jTning part of in the Jiorth- mtry, which id lliver, the may be esti- le-tenths are or Devonian soil as to be id areas, the narrow ise in abrupt •oine, Valley I to the level formed by Duck, and 5d outliers. This is the is bounded and Coteau nd between i forms the The area Winnipeg, 's a mean "The plains rise gently as the Rocky Mountains arc approached, and at their western limit have an altitude of 1000 feet above the sea level. With only a very >iarrow belt of intervening country, the mountains rise abruptly from the plains, and present lofty precipices thut frown like battlements over the level country to the eastward. The average altitude of the highest part of the Rocky Mountains is 12,000 feet (about lat. 51 deg). The forest extends to Mie altitude of 7000 feet, or 2000 feet above the lowest pass. "Theferlile belt of arable soil, partly in the form of rich, open prairie, partly covered with groves of aspen, which stretches from the Lake of the Woods to the foot of the Rocky Mountains, averages SO to 100 miles in breadth." Dr. James Hector, and all the explorers, agree in their descriptions of this region. It is difficult to reach ; but is it so difficult to reach as the shores of America itself were, 300, or 200, or 100 years ago ? We cannot conceive what a cf nturv has done in Ame- rica, or at home. How little, then, can we conjecture what the next fifty years will effect in these distant lands ! The map, which now is crowded with the names of cities where red men roamed in terra incog- nita so recently as the beginning of this century, should reprove any incredulity. The nations are like water. When a country is filled above its capacity, its surplus overflows. As soon as all the eligible districts of Canada are occupied, the streams of settlers will pour westwards ; tracks and roads will be made ; and, if the land be good, it will soon be filled with people. As to the great regions which lie to the west, and open on the Pacific, it can only be said that they are to us ),t 344 CANADA. what Californiri was to the United States on the first discovery of gold ; and that after fifty years they may be less than California is now, if steps be not taken to bind them up with British interests, and to oppose the Araericanisation with which they are threatened. Without reference to the Far West, or the Fa" North- West, — without regard to the Red River and Assiniboia or to British Columbia, there is before us the great fact, that out of the Canadas, and the British North Ame- rican Provinces and dependencies, can be created a powerful Confederation attached to this country, and capable of the grandest development in spite of clima- tic influences. We have already given a slight sketch of the extent and capability of these provinces, and hinted at the difficulties that may arise in the working of the Confederation. Canada is now more than threatened with the loss of the advantages which were supposed to depend on the Reciprocity Treaty, and Great Britain is formally warned that she must pre- pare to meet Federal encroachments on the Lakes* Mr. Gait, in a very elaborate speech, exhaustive of the topics connected with the financial aspect of the future Confederation, lately laid before his hearers a series of calculations which deserve close attention, and which are, we believe, entitled to full confidence. The United States at the end of the year 1865 will either have effected the subjugation of the South by the destruc- tion of all her armies in the field, or she will see an increase to her debt of at least forty millions sterling, or she will have arranged a compromise with the South of which one feature will be the assumption of the Southern debt. In the first case, the North must pre- pare for a long and costly military occupation. In no ca FINANCES OF THE CONFEDERATION. 345 on the first s they may ot taken to to oppose threatened. Fa- North- l Assiniboia great fact, ^orth Anie- created a uiitry, and e of clima- ight sketch inces, and le working nore than vhich were reaty, and must pre- he Lakes, tive of the the future a series of tnd wliich he United ther have J destruc- iil see an I sterling, he South n of the Tiust pre- I. In no case as yet have the trade and commerce of any Southern port or city subjugated and held by Union troops, paid the Federal Government for the cost of holding it. In the second case, increase of taxation must fall with such a crushing weight on the poorer classes, especially in the agricultural States, as to force many of the people to take refuge in Canada, unless deterred by unforeseen obstacles. In the third case, the imme- diate result will be to throw on the Northern States for some considerable period, a greater amount of debt, and of consequent derangement, than they would have been subjected to by either cf the preceding conditions. There can be no just comparison between the United States and the projected Confederation, except in the ratio of taxation per capita. And, if we take income, expenditure, and possible debt at the end of 1805, and contrast the financial position of the British Confede- rate with t -iat of the i'Lmerican Federalist, we will find that the advantage is decidedly on the side of the latter. According to the lion. A. T. Gait, the follow- ing is a fair statement of the revenue and expenditure of the provinces, of the debts and liabilities, of the trade exports and imports, and of all the assets and demands by which the future Confederation would be influenced, excluding of course the cost of such undertakings as great intercolonial roads or enlarge- ments of canals. Mr. Gait may not be a favourite with some theorists of the Colonial Office ; he certainly is not popular at Washington, and he is not more honoured at home than most prophets, but he is an able, clear-headed, trustworthy man : — 346 CANADA. THE FINANCIAL POSITION OF THE PR0VINCP:S. Debt, 1883. Novii Scotia $4,8.")S,r)47 Now BninHwick 5,702,901 Nowfouiidliincl (18(52) .... 94fi,0n0 Prince Edward Isliuid 240,673 Maritime Provinces Canada . $11,748,211 . 67,2ti3,!»S»4 Ini'ome, 1883. $1,18.5,029 8!»ft,991 480,000 197,384 $2,7(13,004 9,7(50,316 Outlay. 18(^3. $1,072,2 4 884,(5 3 479.420 171,718 $2,608,02.'; 10,742,807 Totals $79,012,205 $12,523,320 $13,350,832 INCREASED REVENUES IN 18C4. Canada, without the prfKluco of the new taxoH Jl,. 500, 000 New Brunswick 100,000 NovaMcotia H'O.OOD $1,7C0,00C Deficit of 1803 $827,512 Surplus of 1SC4 872,488 $l,700,00e Total Revenues of all the Colonies, 18C4 $14,223,.320 Outlay 13,3.50,832 Estimated Surphts $872,488 THE POSITION OF THE CONFEDERATION, ESTIMATED ON THE BASIS OF 1864. Canada . Nova Scotia Now BnuiHwick Prince Edward Iwland Newfoundland ilevenue now produced for (}eneriil Oovemment. $11,2,')0,000 1,300,000 1,000,000 200,000 480,000 I»onl llovenues which would not K punwscd i>f tlip CO. Genl. Oovcnimont. 121 000 JOO 728 OOO 849 $0,64.'!, 108 Diffyrcnco piiv- »r. able by tin ' Genl, Governiiieiit. 149 )00 )47 916 )00 212 $8,563,379 . $1,089,720 11 percent. 10 .. IMPORTS, EXPORTS, AND TONNAGE. t}47 Nova Scotia Now Bnin«wick . Priiico Edwarrl Island Newfoundland Canada FDTURE POSITION OF THE PROVINCES. Kstimntcil Outlay for [Mi uiKlci present Oi)Vi"mnicnt. $«67.00{» 404,047 171.718 479,000 Local llcvcnucs. . $1"'7,000 300 d^OOO 5,000 $233,000 . 1,297,043 Eatimntrd T,ooal Outhiy unUiT thi> Union. $371,000 363,000 124 015 250,000 $1,530,048 $1,721,765 (• 2.021,979 1 t 238,170 $3,981,914 $1,098,015 t t * Average of the last four years. t Interest on excess of debt, t Not estimated by Mr. Gait, for reasons given in the speech. THE AUDITOR'S STATEMENT OF THE LIABILITIES OF CANADA. Debenture Debt, direct and indirect Miscellaneous liabilities .... Common School Fiuid Indian Fund Banking Accotmts Seigniorial Tenure : — Capitiil to Seigniors .... Chargeable on Municipalities' Fund On ficeoimt of Jcsuit.s* Estitts Indemnity to the Townships $05,238,640 21 64,426 14 l,181,9f)8 85 1,577,802 46 3,396,982 81 $2,889,711 09 196,719 68 140,271 87 891.500 00 Lobs— Sinking Funds $4,883,177 11 Cash and Bank Accounts .... 2,248,891 87 4,118,202 62 ^75,578,022 00 7,132,068 9S $68,445,953 11 From wliicli, for reasons given in his speech, Mr. Gait deducted the Common School Fund 1,181,958 85 Leaving as Net Liabilities $67,263,994 26 7V PORTS, EXPORTS, AND TONNAGE OF THE PROVINCES. CT,nadft. Nova Scotia New Brunswick . Prince Edward IsLvnd Newfoundland . , Total Trade Import*. $45.9(i4,000 10,201,391 7,764,824 1,428,028 5,242,720 Exports. $41,831,000 8,420,968 8,9(M,784 1,627,540 (i,002,312 8rn.(roint( Tonnage. Inn'unl und Outwaril. 2,133,000 1.4.32,954 l..'»8tJ,980 Ko retum^ $70,000,963 P6,840,004 4,952,9.')4 06,84»j,604 Lake Tonniigo 6,907,000 . $137,447,507 Total Tons . 11,859,934 318 CANADA. A people of more than four milliona will uwe some- thing over c€13,00l 000, as compared vvitli p people of thirty millions owing £900,000,000 sterling ; and with a trade of £-^7,000,000 a-year there is no compensating power in any coiuraercial superiority the United States may possess to establish an equation. If the expenses of the local an(' of the Federal Governments be properly kept in hand, the condition of the British Confedera- tion, in a pecuniary point of view at all events, must be infinitely better than that of the Federal Union either by itself or w ith the Southern States. The Confederation which has just been proposed by delegates at Quebec, and which Avill come before Par- liament soon after this volume escapes from the prin- ters, vests the Executive in the Sovereign of Great Britain ; a superfluous investiture, unless the delegates meant rebellion; and it provides for its adi;iinistration according to the British constitution, by the Sovereign or authorised representative. It does not appear very plain how the Sovereign of a mixed monarchy with a limited franchise for the people can administer bis quasi-repub- lican and unaristocratic viceroyalty accorciing to the principles of the BritisV constitution; particularly, as the Sovereign or his rep:? ;t;r,tative is to be the Commander- in-Chief of the land .i';u naval forces of the Confedera- tion, which are thus expressly removed from the con- trol of the War-Office at home. Difficulties of a merely technical character will no doubt be overcome. But the King of Great Britain and Ireland, in whom the Executive is vested, will have to deal with a Trans- atlantic House of Commons founded on abstract returns of population, and elected by the provinces according to their local laws ; so that some members will represent PROPOSED FEDERAL CONSTITUTION. 34-0 owe some- ' necple of ; and with iipensating ited States expenses of )e properly Confedera- ts, must be riioii either roposed by )efore Par- the prin- L of Great delegates inistration )vereign or • very plain 1 a limited ;asi-repub- 'ig to the irly, as the mmavider- yonfedera- 1 the con- - f a merely rae. But v^hom the a Trans- Rt returns according represent universal suffrage, and others liiiiited coM>titucnpies, which is very ditterenc indeed from the House of Com- roons of Great Britain and Ireland. In ihe Upper House a Wensleydale peerage is repro- duced. It is to consist of seventy-six members nomi- nated by the Sovereign for life, of whom twenty-four are assigned to Upper Canada, and twenty-four to Lower Canada, ten for Nova Scotia, ten for New Brunswick, four for Newfoundland, and four for Prince Edward Island. The Lower House, far less aristo- cratic in its relations to Lower and Upper Canada, has eighty-two memljers Trom the latter, and sixty-five from the former, nineteen from Nova Scotia, fifteen for New Brunswick, eight for Newfoundland, and five for Priuce Edward Island. " Saving the Sovereignty of England," the powers of the Federal Parliament, as enumerated under thirty-seven different heads, are verv large, and on such heads as currency and coinage seem to trench on dangerous ground, and in the last head of all are dangerously vague. The appointment of the Lieutenant-Governor bv the Federal Government itself is obviously open to exception, because it is ano- malous ; but as all the principles as well as the details of the measure will receive the most careful considera tion, it is not necessary to treat the proposnl as an accomplished fact, although it certainly is most desir- able to treat every article with respectful attention, and to give every weight to the expressed opinion of the delegates. Among the objects specially indicated for the future action of the Confederate or Federal Govern- ment are the completion of the Intercolonial Railway from Riviere du Loup to Truro, in Nova Scotia, through the Province of New Brunswick, and the completion of 350 CANADA. communication with the Nortb-Western territories, so as to open the trade to the Atlantic seacoast ; both to be effected as soon as the Federal finances permit. Here there is the most tangible proposal for the open- ing up of the great regions to which I bave called attention ; and the Valley of the Saskatchewan is pro- mised the facility which is alone wanting to make it the seat of a flourishing colony. When the Red River Settlement is once connected with Lake Superior, the way to tbe sea is open, but the advantages of access to the world will be increased enormously as soon as the railway is pushed on to the shores of Lake Huron from Nova Scotia. So eager is one to grasp at the benefits which some such Confederation promises to confer, that tbe perils to the prerogative of the Crown, and to the body so formed, are apt to lie hid from view. But the}^ must be well guarded against ; and I for one am persuaded that it would be far better for us to see the Provinces of British America v:idependent tlian to behold them incorporated with the Northern Republic. The greatest of all these internal perils is in the maintenance of the Local Parliaments, which may come into collision with the Federal Government on local questions impossible to foresee, or define, or adjust ; but as the delegates considered the plan of a complete Legislative Union (juite incompatible with the reserved rights of a portion of the Confederation, the only way left to escape the mischiefs which threaten the future life of the new body is to bind those Local Parliaments within the most narrow limits, consistent with local utility and e:ti8teuce. It ib not for the sake of our future connection, but LESSONS FKOM THE AMERICAN STRUGGLE. 351 Jrritories, so ist; both to ces permit, •r the opeu- liave called 3wan is pro- to make it Red River Jperior, the )f access to 50on as the luroii from vhich some : the perils he body so the}^ must persuaded Provinces ihold them he greatest nee of the lisiou with impossible delegates iive Union r a portion jscape the the new within the tility and ctioD, but for their own integrity and happiness that such a course is recommended. They have " an awful example " at their doors. The torrents of blood which have deluged the soil of the North American Republics all welled out of the little chink in the corner-stone of the Con- stitution, on one side of which lay States' Rights, and on the other Federal Authority. Without some justifi- cation in law and in argument, such men as Calhoun, and Stephens, and Davis, would never have reasoned, and planned, and fought, and worked a whole people up to make war against the Union. Sad as the spec- tacle is of a community of freemen waging war against the principles of self-government, it must be admitted that their instinct may be sounder than their reason- ing, and that they are engaged in a struggle for self- preservation, in which they have swelled their propor- tions into that of a gigantic despotism, but have after all attained a giant^s port and strengtli. It is impos- sible to say whether the corruption which Montesquieu has declared to be the destruction of a democracy, has yet seized upon the tremendous impersonation of brute force, of unconquerable will, of passion, of lust of em- pire, which now rules in the Capitol, and occupies the throne whereon feebly sat heretofore the mild impuis- sance of the old Federal Executive ; but if the pictures which have been presented to us be true, there is a prophetic meaning in the words of the philosophic Frenchman : — " Les politiques grecs, qui vivaient dans le gouvernement populaire, ne reconnaissaient d'autre force qui put le soutenir que celle de la vertu. Ceux d\iujourd'hui ne nous parlent que des manufactures, de commerce, de finances, de richesse, et de luxe meme." The giant's feet may be of clay, and his body may be of 352 CANADA. that artificial stiflfening which gives to worthless stuffs a temporary substantiality, but behind the giant stand the great American people, with hands dyed in their brothers' gore, and who, having sacrificed friendship, traditions, constitution, and liberty at home, will think but little of adding to the pyre of their angry passions the peace and happiness of others. THE END. BfUDBURY AN© EVANS, PRIMTEUS, WUITKKniAnS. worthless stuffs the giant stand s dyed in their iced friendship, lome, will think ' angry passions Et'niAns. 7] <^ /2 ^;. 0^% ^3 f^..-^ ^ ^' ^J^ V .'^ ^3% y m IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I l^|28 tip '"^" ^ m iM 12.0 2.5 2.2 im Photographic Sciences Corporation // A 1-25 II 1.4 1 1.6 4 6" ► V iV \\ 1J5 Lonj^iUide West from. Greejiwict IL'O 115 London: Bradbury & Evan s , ILBoixvTxrie Slj-eet . i()r» r ♦* I. ""*"«•'• I.. Ho, ;>fe/fl. ^>~-j:??{i[A<4. Kneel „\ o^ A', //fj ^Stiii-jiV'oii Ki-a\\l.. I'Hf 11 I'iisil', .«"//.(v?T5^ -\ iv Carl 'y^ ■''miiiLIR \ ''fi/iri^S-^ , //(•«.- \H'»'' alls *^"<'.Wfl A--Jf tVjrt I'eiiv ITE(M*SIS y/atrrlLv , . ■? '" """/'ij. Itiiir "A ^(o<»sp Mf" ^ 'V 'Jii^, a lit ..wili-»'iJ < ittemt 'li\f/i \r«r'"^ ''<"'tV(ifl«'/^d \^'^ V)<-tdi ^MMlt(r --/ st; »->, ,11 K nv,/. .i.iriV -f ,^k ?'Siiiu. T-v. \\Souns ml'^it > 5„n't rliiii Wakaii L.iko ().-) lOO 95 d'ttir/ofiLa (nnyni/f^jLti/ f'.rftiJ'/t.r/t/nr'Ttt lum/otL, •^! 1 il a 1 t t t 1 I i 1 t 1 1 1 WOBKS BY MR. CHARLES KNIGET, rUliLlSHED 15Y BRADlUJIiY AND EVANS. CHARLES KNIGHT'S ENGLISH CYCLOPEDIA. A JJEW DICTIONARY OF UNIVERSAL KNOWLEDGE. GEOGRAPHY. In Four vols., cloth, 21. 2s. ; or Two vols., half movocco, 21. lOs. BIOGRAPHY. la Six vols., dotli, 3Z. ; or Three vols., half morocco, 3/. 12s. NATURAL HISTORY. In Four vols., cloth, 21. 2s. ; or Two vols., half morocco, 21. 10s ARTS AND SCIENCES. In Eij^'ht vols., cloth, 4/. 16s. ; or Fonr vols,, half morocco, Ijl. 12s, SYNOPTICAL INDEX. In 1 Vol., 4to, uniform with the AVort, price 6s. cloth, or Qs. half-hound Tuorocco. The Work u published in Four Divisions, each complete in ''-elf. The price of the compute Work, in Twenty-two Volumes (exclusive of the Index) bound in cloth, is £12; and in Double Voliime.1, luilf bound in morocco, £14 4,t. Any volume may be had separately. FnOM THE QUAKTKRTA' REVIEW. ApRIL, 1863. "The * English Cyclopaedia' is a work that, as a whole, has no superior, and very few equals of its kind ; that, taken by itself, sn])plies the jilace of a small library, and, used in a large library, is found to present many ])()iiits of information that are sought in vain in any other cycloptedia in the English language." FuoM THE Times. Oct. 4, 1861. "As regards the contents of this Cyclopanlia, it is, however, impossible to give any sufiicient iinjiression of an aggregate wliich includes somewhere or other all the information generally re([uired upon every conceivable topic. A good Encycloinedia, as every one knows, is a compendious library, and though students may require further information upon some points than its summaries contain, even students will be surprised in this instance to iind the materials at their disposal when they once adopt the habit of resorting to its pages, r'or all practical purposes a large propor- tion of the articles may be said to be exhaustive ; they are accurate to a degree wliich will strike even those who know what pains have been taken to render them so ; and as they are concise as well as full, every colum.i being rammed like a sky-rocket, the owner has a reservoir out of all pro- portion to the library shelves it will occupy." BRADBURY AND EVANS, 11, BOUVEKIE STREET, FLEET STREET. WORKS nr J/fl. CHARLES KNiailT. CHARLES KNIGHT'S POPULAR HISTORY OF ENGLAND, In Eliiht Voluiiict, lari/e Si'o, price t\l. 1(5». i'xL, hnnthovich/ hound in cioth, iUiutrated loUh many hundred IVoodcuta and Stetl Engravinyt, AND DEDICATED TO HIS KOYAL IIIUJINESS THE PRINCE OF WALES. la.iiroct from, the Author's Postscript to Volume VIII. — " In the Intro- duction to my First Volume I havii statod the circum.stiincos wliicli led me to I'ntcitiun tlio idea of writing a book tliat mij^ht he it;(;onimond(Hl for ]mriM)so3 of instruction, ' when a Young Man of Eighteen asks for a History of England.' With a pardoJial)l(' pride, I may presume to mention tiiat my desire to ])rodue(^ such a hook has been welcometl in a manner far hoyond my hope — I fear beyond my desert. Wiiilst the Prince of Wales was pursuing his studies at the University of Cambrldgt , my history was Used as a text-book, and was (pioted and recommemled by the Kev. Charles Kingsley, the Professor of Modern History, in the course of l^ec- tures which His Koyal Highness attended. The extdted rank of the studtint — the literary eminence of the Professor — eomliine to render this oom)>liment most grateful to me. It affords me the consolation of believ- ing that, whatever may be the errors and deficiencies of my undertaking, it has beou recognised by one whoso opinion is of no ordinary value, as a ^ell-meant endeavour to write the History of the Kingdom and of the I'eople with a due sense of my responsibility to be just iuid truthful, and Avith a catholicity of mind that may be preserved without tho suppression of honestly-formed opinions." From the ATiiENiEUM. *' We very cordially recommend ^[r. Knight's volumes to the roadors whom they seek. We know of no history of England so free from prejudice, so thoroughly honest and impartial, so stored with facts, fiineies, and illustrations, — and therefore nonv' so well adapted for school or college as this ' Popular History of England. Ftiom the Westminster Review. " So far as we are acquainted with this comprehensive history, wc can hesitate to recommend tlu; results of Mr. Knight's seven years' labour. He cannot has probably done all that talent, industry, uprightness and an enlightened sympathy could do. His History is probably the most available, and the most informing History of England that we possess. It has one cardinal moral merit : it is u thoroughly patriotic history — the production of an educated Englishman who loves his country, without concealmg his country's faults, and without hating the coimtry of a'neighbour. It has the iiKuit of being readable, and presenting a .!oin])lcte and often graphic narrative of nearly two thousand years of England's fortunes and of Engknd's action." *»* The work is sold separately in Volume. Vols. I. to VI. price 9i. each : Vol. VII, 10». 6(Z. / and Vol. VIII., Us. BRADBURY AND EVANS, 11, BUUVEIUE STREET, FLEET STREET. KlIIT. 'S WORK'S II Y MR. CIIARL/'JS KNIOIIT. JLAND, f.V hiyund in cioth, I'higravinys, lllNCE OF WALES. //.— •'In the Intro- tiiiuu\s wliirh Itul iiu- 1)0 lecomint'mUHl for Eii^htt'cn asks for ii ly pri'sunu! to inoiitioii oiMcd ill a iiiamior far t, tll»^ Prince of Wales rid^i , my history' was niendiMl by the Rev. in tlie courso of Lec- exiilted rank of the »nil>ine to render tills consolation of believ- L\s of my undertaking, 10 ordinary valne, as a Kin<^dom and of the nst tuid truthful, and thout the suppression ['S to the readers whom free from ])rejudice, so ncies, and illustrations, )ilogo as this ' Popular iive history, we cannot I years' labour. He has II enli<(hteiied sympathy and the most informinjj lal moral merit : it is u icated Englishman who ilts, and without hating •eadable, and presenting isund years of England's trice 9i. each : Vol. VII., T, FLEET STREET. CHARLES KNIGHT'S SCHOOL HISTORY OF ENGLAND. FROM TIIK FOAULIKST PERIOD TO OUR OWN TIMES. ABRIDGED FROM THE POPULAR HLSTORY OF ENGLAND UNDKR THE HUPEUINTENDENCE OP IT.S AUTHOR. In one thick Volume, crntun Si'o, price 7a. M. lyr R. KNir^IT has stated, in the preface to this Volunio, that the title " oohool History " has been adopted to mark its (diaractor as a work of elementary instruotion. "It is an abridgement," he says, "of my ' Tupular History of Kn^land' in eii^ht octavo volumes, and is executed by a nu'iiiber of my family, under my puieral superintendence!. It has been the continuous labour of nearly three years> not accomplished by making entire extracts of the most striking passaj^es of a larger history, and holding them together by short connecting threads of narrative ; bu^ by recasting the whole upon a scale of comixisition which, aiming at uniformity, enables tho s(!veral parts to retain their just proportions. Thus, 1 may venture to state that there is no imi)ortant fact of our poli- tical and social progress therein omitted. ' Tho Popular History' was entitled a ' History of Society and Government.' 'The iSohool History' embraces, in tho same way, the State History and tlie Domestic. In a few cases, there are separate clia|)ters on the National Industry, on Literature, on the Arts ; but in every period will be ftmnd some notice of these important characteristics of the advance of a jjcoplo, politically and intellectually. " In this 'School History ' there is no attempt to convey information in language (to use a phrase which I trust is growing obsolete) ' adapted to the juvenile cajificity.' For the boy or the girl, the young man or the young woman, who.se training has been such as to make the history of their country something more than a dry catalogue of names, this Volume may sutlice for the ])eriod of their pupilage. It perhaps may be sufficient as a preparatory book for tho class-examination of young candidates for employment. But whether for public or domestic in.struction, it will o])en tho way to tho study of more elaborate works, on the sulyect upon which, of all othtivs, it mo.st behoves the youth of a free country to bo well infonned." February, 1865. BRADBURY AND EVANS, 11, BOUVERIE STREET, FLEET STREET. i ■1 wont's nr }rn. riL\nim KxrnuT. CHAPLES KNIGHT'S PASSAGES OF A WORKING LIFE DURING HALF A CENTURY. WITH A rUKLlIDK OF KAIILV HKMINISCENTKS. In Three Ejiochf, tach forminq a volume: prirr ill 11*. thl. post Sco, bound in rlolli. Hither volume mny be Inui scpuratelj/. FllOM THE ATHKN.fJTM. "In i\n onsy vf'in nf mnvorsntion Mr. Kiiif^lit mntinnos niid ronfludos the nu'iMoirs of hi.s lilt', which he siTins to Imvc rrscrvtd as u tinal (tllcriii!^ to tho worUl Ono of the I'liit't' c'liiirms of Mr. Kiiijilits book is the contrast wliicli it draws lictwccii an ohl worhl, ra))itlly passing away, and the new state of society arising out of the use of steam, the mil, ami telegraph." From the SATunnAY Review. "Mr. Charlos Kniglit has been beyond any man of liis time, with porhaps the exrc|)tion of Mr. Kobcrt Chambers, the most active and successful Dilfuscr of Useful Knowledge. Yet, in our opinion, of the many volumes he has ]iut forth, no mic is more re]tl(!te with ])rofitable and entertaining knowledge than that which we now lay down with regret. He has mingled with admirabh^ skill the useful with the agreeable, and we look with e(]ual impatience and eontidence for Volumes II. and III. of TaSSAUES of a WOUKING LiFE.'" From the Reaper. "Tliis first vohime of Charh'.s Kniglit's vVutobiography— lie refuses himself to call it an Autobiogra])hy, and prefers a simpler title — is, we venture to .say, as delightful a book from beginning to end as the readers of Great Britain have had provided for them this season." From the Eclectic Review. "Wc have thu.s pas.sed hastily through this very interesting volume. "We .shall antici])ate its .successors with jileasuni If it (the work) shall go on and close as it has begun, it may .safely compare and compete with ' My Schools and Schoolmasters,' of Hugh Miller, which we hold to be the most perfect piece of autobiograpliy in our language." From The Morning Post. "Those who take up the volume in which Mr. Kniglit record.s the first epoch of his working life, in the expectation of hearing something of occurrences which form l)right pages in the history of the country, and of forming acquaintance with some of those who have left behind them an undying name, will not be disappointed." BRADBURY AND EVAXS, 11, BOUVEIIIE STREET, FLEET STREET. 11, BouvKRiK Stbhi;i. ILLUSTRATED 8c OTHER WORKS I'UlihlSllKI) HY ''), bound in cloth. BRADHITRY \ND EVANS. LATER PENCILLINOS FROM PUNCH. I'.y Jofin Lekch. With Expla iiiitory NdtoH l>y Mauk I,i:miin, Ivlitur nf " I'uiicli li ii hainisoiiio Uo volume, price •i\»., witli II I'urtr.iit nf Mr. liOccli. 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ONCE A WEEK: an Illustniteil Misofllauy of Literature, Art, Science, and I'lipuhir liitniiiKiliiiii This i»i|nil:ir )poriodic;il is piiblishod cvtiry Saturduy, prir<' 3.' ; in Mniitldy raitN, pri"*i l.v. ; mid in Half yi-.irlv VciliuncN, i>ri(.'i- 7". il''. 'I'lico l.ui>,'li, liy tin? Aiitlmr I't' "Huiiis l»i)iinc," i-> mnv in ooiir.-i" ul pulilicidioii. Tin; KU;v(.iitli Vuliiniu is now ru.'uly. THE COMIC BLACKSTONE. l\y ii. A. AT-kckhtt, Author of tiie "Comic History oi iMiud.uid," .\.c. Willi ;iii llliistriitinn l>y Gkihh;!; ('iiiikmiiank. Ni'W I'.dition, tViiii. svd, pricn -.'.v. JAPANESE FRAGMENTS. By Cwt. SuKaAKD O.siionx, R.N., V.li. In siiu;in' llJliii', jprico 7.-'., ;.dlt I'dtfon. VANITY FAIR. I5y W. M. Tkackkuvy. I Ilnstm tod l>y the Author. One willUlK, Mvn, I lutll, -1.". Also, a I'lioaii Kditimi, witliuiit lllo^tratiniis unifunn witli llic .Misct'llanli'.'*, in irnwil Svn, tlv. PENDENNIS. Uy W. M. Tiiackkrav. Illustnited by the Author. 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