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MY BAMBLES IN THE NEW WOELD.

Frontispiece,

MY RAMBLES

IN THE NEW WORLD.

By LUCIEN BIART,

AVTHOR or "the ADVEMTTREB of a YOL'SG KATI'RALIST.

TRANSLATED BY

MARY DE IIAUTEVILLE.

LONDON:

SAMPSON LOW, MAESTON, SEARLE & RlVINGTON,
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET,

1877.

(411 righti relented.')

LONDON;

PRINTED BT WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS,

STAMrOBD 8T££BT AMD CHABIMO CS068.

TO MY BROTHER

EDWARD,

WHO IS NOW RAMBLIKG IK THE TROPICAL REGIOK OF QUEENSLAND,

I DEDICATE MT TRANSLATION OF
MONSIEUR BIARt's RAMBLES ON THE AMERICAN CONTINENT.

MARY DE HAUTE VILLE.

TKANSLATOR'S NOTE,

■«o*-

The only liberty which I have ventured to take with
this work of M. Biart's has been in giving it a new title.
The title of the original work is A Travers L'Amerique, a
literal translation of which would have approached too
nearly the title of an English work already existing ; besides
which, I venture to think it scarcely conveys to the reader
so clear an idea of the character of the work as that which
I have chosen. In all other respects I have adhered as
closely to the original as has been consistent with rendering
it into what I trust may be considered readable English.

CONTENTS.

LABRADOB.

CHAPTER rAO«

I. The 5tVen— Floating ice-blocks— Master Simeon— Greenland —

Cortereal — A salvage — Ouanga 1

II. Thn little Esquimaux — The toilet of an uncivilized beauty — An
ill-bred child — Civilizing effects of an accordion— Mr. and Mrs.
Stewart — A house under the snow — Mrs. Oblouk-Kanick ... 11
III. The sledge drive — A rustic supper — The Oblouk-Kanick house-
hold — A snow village— Origin of the Esquimaux — A new use
for buttons — ^Eeturn to Canada 21

A CANADIAN FAMILY.

I. The Canadian cross-bill — On a hunting excursion — A chance

meeting — ^What a few acres of snow were worth — ^Montcalm
and Wolfe— The St. Lawrence — Quebec— The forests— The
storm — An American hat — A wrong direction — Another meeting 30

II. Miss Louise — Arrival at the Secret Valley— Grandfather Martin

— A patriarchal evening — What is Mr. Peter ? — A misttike — An

enfant terrible — Another search for the ioxt'a 41

III. A panorama — An unexpected meeting — Luncheon in the woods —
Pleading in Miss Louise's favour — Return to the farm — Plead-
ing in Peter's favour — " All's well that ends well " — The Loxia 51

NIAGARA IN WINTER.

I. The coasts of Canada — Sir John Burton — Miss Mary'e cloak-
Halifax — A sledge drive — A restaurant in a cellar— An oyster-
fight — American liberty — Sir John again 61

II. The palisades of the Hudson — A stolen repast — Is it he ? — The

Falls — The suspension bridge — Blondin's rope — Under the
Niagara — Cincinnati— An introduction 69

SAN FRANCISCO.

The Chinese theatre — A fellow-countryman — The El Dorado of
Cortez — The village of San Francisco — A rich proprietor — A
gaming-room — A Yankee, Yankee, and a half—" A bird in the
hand is worth two in tlie bush " 80

CONTENTS.

TOETOISE ISLAND.

CBAFTXR FA6B

I. Departure from Havre — Deerfoot — Sefior Baudoin — Count Monis-
trol and Baron Martin — The trade winds — Equatorial calm —

The Phaeton — An arrest 87

II. Scarcity of fresh water — The calm — Flying-fish — Dorado —
Tropical grass — St. Domingo — Tortoise Island — Freebooters

and pirates — An unexpected meeting 96

III. Betum to ship— The captain and Dofia Clara — A man-of-war —
The pursuit — Prisoners! — Baudoin's departure — The sper-
maceti whales — Campeachy — Lambert again — ^Andr^Marie ... 105

A WATEKSPOUT AT SEA.

St Thomas — The Eeverend Mr. Smith — The waterspout at sea —
A wish realized— Fears calmed 116

CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH.

L Havannah — Preliminary formulas — A good dinner — In search

of a lodging — A restless night 121

II. Fraternity — Sons and daughters of kings — Abuse of saffron — A

negro ball 129

FKOM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS.

I. Departure from Havannah — The slavery question — The Gulf

Stream — The Mississippi — A kidnapping business 138

II. Departure for Messangere — The unfortimate Thomas — The
danger of letting a dress get wet — A New Yorkist, and a native
of Louisiana — A curious way of getting a husband ... ... 146

HI. Molifere and the education of women — New Orleans — Scarcity of
filtered water — The Cincinnati and the Jaekton — Ball on board
— A guest without knowing it — Conclusion 155

THE HORSE-TAMER.

The mouse-coloured horse — Yankees and Texians — An aeoident
— Alone I — Don Jose' — The wild horse — A terrible night ... 167

TENOCHTITLAN.

Arrival of the Spaniards at Mexico — The palaces of Montezuma
— The modem town — The National Palace — The theatres —
Itinerant merchants — Society 179

CONTENTS. XI

THE PEABL FOREST.

tJHAPTKB PAOB

I. Isidro— Don Anastasio \ega — Tba Pearl Forest — The Hermit's

Cave— The ambush 186

n. The flight— A deliverer— A walk in Ihe forest — Old Jos€— An

unexpected meeting — The bandits' retreat 194

ni. The nocturnal walk — Indian and half-breed — M^thal — The

Hermit's Ravine 206

IV. The venture — An unfortunate meeting — Salvador Rendon — The

right of the strongest — Pray for him 214

THE TUXPANGO CASCADE.

The sick child — The Escamela river — The fox — The cascade — A
tiger 225

THE SERPENT-CHARMER.

The curado — Che'p^ Solana — The huaco plant — The trial — Feare
calmed 234

THE DEAD CITY.

I. Bishop's River— Indian cooking — Eulalio and C^estin — The
king of vultures — A newly married couple — Wedding-feasts —
The cotton plants — Wild turkeys — An escort of alligators . . . 240
II. A virgin forest — Alligators — A rough alarm — Wild bulls — A
victim — Paroquets and cardinals — An Indian family — Flies —
The lake 248

III. Lake Vignon — A serious misadventure — The bird of the sun —

Discouragement — La terre temp&^e — The cascade — Excursion

on foot— The black tiger— The Dead City 256

IV. The mist — Aerial gardens — An armadillo — The temple— Sculp-

tures and hieroglyphics — The coral snake — The ibis — Belz^-
buth monkeys — The tapirs — A nest of rattlesnakes — Monteuc-
zoma 265

THE UNICORN.

Nor Rosalino— The antSurro— Lying in ambush — An anxious
moment — The unicorn — The tapir „.. 275

THE GROTTO OF THE TOLTECS.

I. Guatemala — The Toltecs — The grotto— Necessary precautions —

A general panic 283

II. Discouragement — Uselecs entreaties — New excursions — An un<

expected meeting — Discoveries — Departure ... 289

AZTEC EDUCATION.
True Aztecs — A father to his son — A mother to her daughter 295

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portrait of the author

" With the oars he formed a kind of bridge "

•* Ouanga had just fallen on the frozen ground "

Quebec

" She took the hunter's arm"

" * Uncle ! ' cried he, with emotion "

New York

" The water covered me with frozen foam "

" I entered the room "

♦* Seize that wretch ....**

" Rolling the barrels ....**

" The column seemed to have two funnels"

Keeping Christmas in Ha vannah .,,

**Hold!"

New Orleans

Negroes clad in the traditional costume of Figaro

" ' Let go ! ' cried Manuel "

•' I thought I heard the cracking of branches " ..

Mexico

" Pretty Lola laughed at all obstacles "

" The bandits surrounded an immense fire "

" The tiger seemed to be contemplating the fall "

"I am killed"

" The married couple arm in arm "
•• The bulls filed past us by hundreds "
" Before us spread a valley . . . ."
*♦ I fired "
" This room— full of stalactites . . . ."

.. Frontispiece

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MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

LABEADOE.

CHAPTER I.

The Siren —Floating ice-blccks — Master Simeon — Greenland— Cortereal —

A salvage — Ouanga.

" Port the helm ! " cried the captain.

The sailor at t!ie wheel rapidly executed this command;
then, gently as a well-bred hoise, the Siren turned towards the
left, dipped her hows in the waves and glided alongside a moun-
tain of ice. with which she had barely escaped a collision.

This was the third time since break of day, that is to say,
since about two o'clock, that the little schooner, bearing the
musical name of Siren, had grazed these enormous blocks of ice,
which, especially towards the approach of summer, are borne by
the currents from Baffin's Bay, as far south as Newfoundland,
often even farther than that. Wo had left Quebec a month ago,
and at this moment, 20th of May, 1851, were alongside the bare,
desolate coast of Labrador. The lowering sky was the colour of
lead ; the north wind whistled furiously through the rigging ;
on our left rose gigantic cliffs, covered with a thick mantle
of ice.

" A fine temperature, sir,'* said the captain to me in a cheer-
ful tone, as he came towards the poop, where I was standing.
" A fine temperature ! "

J B.

2 MY It AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

The thermometer, I had just 'nformetl myself, showed
fifteen degrees below zero : therefore the captain's remark, " A
fine temperature," seemed somewhat ironical. I had hardly
been a quarter of an hour on deck, and notwithstanding the
thick fur cloak in which I was enveloped, I was beginning to
shiver and to have serious doubts as to the presence of my nose
in the middle of my face. The eight sailors composing our crew,
muffled up to their eyes in furs^ like myself, were walking to
and fro, heaving the ropes, which were so stiffened by the frost
as to be like bars of iron. From the time we left the St. Law-
rence, I could not sufficiently admire these men who, day and
night alike — and our days then consisted of barely four hours —
paced the frozen deck of the Siren, ever ready to execute the
difficult and perilous orders of the captain or the first mate.

I was preparing to return to the cabin of the schooner, a
narrow room where a cast-iron stove at white heat kept up an
incessant roar, when my host and fellow-traveller. Master
Simeon (he was so called by all on board), appeared on deck.

" A fine temperature," cried he, in his turn, rubbing his fur
gloves one against the other.

Then, after having carefully examined the horizon, he came
and stood by me.

Master Simeon, a Canadian of French origin, was partly the
cause of my presence on the coast of Labrador this 20th of May,
1851 : we had made the passage from Liverpool to Boston
together, and during this trip I had more than once spoken
to my companion of the vague desire I had to visit the polax
regions. Master Simeon listened to me, smiling to himself
whilst he smoked his everlasting briar-root pipe, and one fine
day he suddenly offered to realize my dream. He had dealt in
furs for ten years, and possessed a trading-station on the coast
of Labrador. Directly we reached Boston he intended to pay
his friends at Quebec a short visit, and then re-embark on
board the Siren, bound for his northern trading-stations, where
she would get her cargo of bear, fox, and hare skins, barrels of
oil, fish, and walrus tusks which his employes, living in the
snow in latitude 50°, were to"^ collect for him from the

LABRADOR.

Esquimaux during the winter. Master Simeon generously
offered me a berth on board his schooner, promising to take me
to witness the mode of taking seal, white bear, and walrus.
I accepted his offer, and at the moment my companion joined
me on deck, I was not regretting my imprudence for the first
time.

*' I see with pleasure that you are beginning to get accus-
tomed to our breezes," said t!te merchant, whose good-humour
was invariable. " Here you have been on deck more than
twenty minutes ; allow me to compliment you on your powers of
endurance." ,

" I shall never become accustomed," I replied, " to the feel-
ing of being perpetually transformed into an icicle, and still
less to seeing myself adorned with a blue nose every time I
dare look in the glass."

" But you, such a lover of the picturesque, do you not
admire those immense white cliffs, that grey sky, those waves
covered with floating icebergs ? "

" I am dreaming regretfully. Master Simeon, of the sunny
south down yonder between San Domingo and the Havanalis,
where the sky is blue, the sea vermilion, and where, instead of
a bare, white, uniform coast, the eye rests on hills crowned with
palm trees."

" I only promised you seals, white bears, and walrus," said
my companion with his hearty laugn, " and, God willing, I will
keep my word. Before forty-eight hours are over, unless the
wind changes, we shall be at the station, and you will then be
able to refresh yourself after your long captivity."

" Where are we, then ? " I asked.

" If my eyes were as good as that eider-duck's which you
see flying over us, I should perceive, looking to the right, a
country which I shall visit next year, for I have a trading-
station there also. If you would like to accompany me . . ."

" No, thank you," cried I this time. " If I return from this
voyage I will certainly not try it again, and I shall be off at
once to thaw under the tropics. But what country are you
speaking about ? "

4 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

" Greenland."

" The true Esquimaux country?"

" Yes, and the country of the red fox and white hare. It is
a curious land, rafter cold, but quite worth the trouble of a
visit. And ixowever disinclined you may feel at present,
still . . ."

" I will answer you in six months' time from the Gulf of
Mexico; meanwhile, Greenland interests me. Where is your
trading-station?"

" At Julianeshaab, a pretty little town, where some of your
countrymen live."

" Good Heavens ! what do they trade in there? "

" There is hardly any other trade in these regions except
that for furs, oil, and dried fish. I have often heard it stated,"
continued Master Simeon, "that Greenland is an island, and
I am very much inclined to believe it. This land, as you doubt-
less know, was first discovered by the Irishman, Eric Kanda, who
settled here in 982. The colony founded by this predecessor of
Columbus in the discovery of America, existed until the year
1436. Since then the Danes, the possessors of Greenland, have
founded two settlements there : one through the influence of the
missionary Egede; the other, in 1733, through the Moravian
Brothers. 15ut you are shivering ; let us go back to the stove."

" Not just yet," said I ; "if Greenland is to our right, we
have before us Baffin's Bay."

" Precisely so. We have been for several days on the route
which explorers take in search of the North Pole, on the Ross
and Franklin track. Baffin's Bay, from whence come the icebergs
against which we have to defend ourselves, was discovered, in
1616, by the English pilot, William Baffin, then in search of a
passage into the open sea. Baffin's Bay is about four hundred
leagues in length and twenty-five in width ; it communicates
with the Atlantic Ocean by Davis's Straits."

" And the land along which we have been coasting for the
last three days is Labrador?"

" Yes and no ; we are in sight of the numerous islands which
border the coasts of that curious country. But if no contrary

LABRADOR.

wind delays ns we shall see the true coast of Lahrador to
morrow, and the end of our voyage northwards."

My companion again insisted on taking me back to the stove,
and this time I yielded. The grey clouds gradually cleared off
the horizon, and here and there strips of blue appeared in the
sky. Numerous birds were flying about, but they kept them-
S€*lve8 at such a distance from the schooner, that I could not
distinguish to what species they belonged.

When once cosily settled near the stove, Master Simeon lit
his pipe, stretched himself in an armchair, and I again
questioned him on Labrador. He told me that this vast country,
which is, in short, nothing but the continuation of Canada, was
discovered, in loOl, by the Portuguese Cortereal. Struck, they
say, with the fertility of the lands which he saw — which appears
to me rather paradoxical — Cortereal gave his discovery the name
of Lahrador, that is to say, land of labour. Now, although the
southern part of Labrador affords the agriculturist some miser-
able chances of harvest, there is not even that much in the
north, which, almost perpetually buried under snow, has
scarcely two mcniths of summer. Thus, certain geographers
affirm that it is the industry of the natives which has given the
land the name of Labrador, taking this word in the sense of
work-shop. This is a question which, at the present day, has
scarcely any interest, and, like Master Simeon, I leave the solution
of it to others. In Labrador, as in Greenland, the society of
the Moravian Brothers has founded settlements for the civiliza-
tion of the native Indians and Esquimaux.

The interior of Labrador, which the French traveller
d'Anville had a glimpse of, is in reality unexplored. It is only
known that a chain of mountains traverse it from north to south,
and that vast sheets of water — inland seas, in fact — continue in
some way the line of Canadian lakes. Towards the Pacific
Ocean, Labrador has for frontier Hudson's Bay, then a stretch
of country partly unknown as far as liussian America, recently
acquired by the Americans, and known under the name of
Alaska.

About three o'clock in the afternoon, when the sun was

6 MY Jt AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

(liHappearing below the horizon, I put on my fur coat and
climbed up on to the poop. Before us was the continual black
line of watei mingling with the horizon, and to our left
mountains of ice, I ventured as far as the bows of the Siren,
where a man on watch, relieved from hour to hour, stood night
and day, with attentive observation, to guard against the floating
banks of ice so formidable on these coasts. Twenty times since
our departure we had escaped striking against these moving
rocks, a collision with which we avoided through the protection
of Providence, for our captain's skilful tactics alone would not
have sufficed to save us. The long nort.^ern nights are generally
clear ; but the negligence of a sailor might cause the loss of a
ship in a moment. To say the truth, and I repeat it intention-
ally, I never knew men more devoted, more resolute, more
inured to hardships, in a word, men gifted with a greater amount
of courage, than the bold fishermen of the northern seas. There
is no occupation under a temperate climate, however laborious it
may be, which can be compared with that of the seaman whose
means of livelihood consist in Graving snow, rain, and icebergs,
and living almost always in darkness, ever between life and death.

Instead of turning round on my approach, the sailor on
watch, stationed near one of the cat-heads of the Siren, con-
tinued to examine the horizon carefully.

" Anything new, Montbars ? " I asked of him.

" I hardly know, sir ; I have been trying for the last ten
minutes to make out what it is I can see, or rather, what I
could see only a minute ago."

" And what did you see ? "

" A human being stretching out imploring arms towards us,
from the peak of that islet yonder."

I drew near the sailor, and, following the directions he gave
me, examined in my turn the spot indicated. Before long, I
thought I saw a human form moving about.

" Ring the bell, sir," cried Montbars to me, just as I was
about to communicate my impression to him. " By Heaven !
there is some one shipwrecked there."

Obeying the sailor, I vigorously rang the bell ; Master

LABRADOR.

Simeon, the captain, and all the sailors, with the exception of
the man at the helm, ran at once towards the prow.

"What have you discovered?" asked Master Simeon; "a
rock, a walrus, or a seal ? "

" Nothing of that kind, sir," replied Monthars, " unless the
Labrador seals have arms, which is hardly probable. Look at
the peak of that last islet to leeward : tliere is a human being
there, or I am short-sighted."

■ The telescojies were rapidly pointed and directed towards
the spot which I described with the sailor.

" Good Heavens ! can it be some one shipwrecked there ? "
cried Master Simeon.

" It is more likely an Esquimaux, or some Indian, whose
boat has been damaged," said the captain ; " but, we have just
entered Hudson's Strait, and this coast is uninhabited."

" A human creature must not call to us in vain," replied the
shipowner.

" Hallo there, lads," added he, turning towards the sailors ;
" lower a boat quickly."

"Stay, Master Simeon," said the captain, putting up his
hand to stop the sailors already at work ; " we will get a little
nearer the coast first ; we can do so without danger."

" Be it so, but look sharp about it."

Each sailor, forgetting the terrible cold, redoubled his efforts ;
in a moment our course was changed, and the Siren, lashing
the water, left a white wake on the black surface of the sea.
The sun had disappeared, and twilight was gradually growing
fainter. The high cliffs assumed a more formidable aspect in
proportion as we drew near the coast ; but at the same time
their lines became more confused, especially towards their base.

" It will be dangerous to go nearer," said the captain,
suddenly.

He gave orders and the ship gradually hove to.

" Confound this darkness ! " cried Master Simeon. " Who
knows if in an hour's time we shall be able to find the island ? "

" Let us lie to ; in this way we shall not risk losing twenty-
four hours," said the captain.

8 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

" And the currents — where will they take us to?" resumed
Master Simeon. By Heaven!" added he, after a moment's
silence, "here we are hesitating whilst a human creature is
perhaps in want of our immediate help. God protects those
who do their duty, my friends. Lower the boat quickly, and
let two of you be ready to go with me."

" Remain on board, Master Simeon," said the boatswain ;
" this is our business."

" It is my business as well. I was a sailor before being ship-
owner, and I have not forgotten my noble calling."

I hastened to oflfer my services.

" As to you, Mister Parisian," continued Master Simeon
unceremoniously, " I do not doubt either your good-will or your
courage, but on this occasion you may be in our way instead of
being useful. Stay where you are, and do not let the fire go
out; we shall want to unfreeze our moustacI.es soon. Have a
lantern hung on the port-side, captain, and send up a few rockets
now and then to light us on our way. Gently, fad% f' ^re we
ready?"

" Yes, sir," answered the three sailors who had taken their
places in the boat.

" Pull away, then."

Tht oars struck the water and the little boat set oif. For a
quarter of an hour we saw her dancing on the waves. Suddenly
she disappeared; she had just entered the shadow thrown by the
clififs.

Almost an hour — one of the longest in my life, I believe —
passed in cruel suspense. We were enveloped in darkness, and
the surf of the waves against the sides of the Siren was the only
sound to be heard. We were all crowding on the port-side, and
trying to pierce the darkness, whilst the wind whistled
plaintively through our stiflFened rigging.

" They are calling," said a sailor.

We listened anxiously, but there was no other sound save
that of the wind and sea.

" King the bell, lads, and run a lantern up to the masthead,"
said the captain.

LABRADOR. 9

Soon the bell was ringing, whilst a red lantern was raised
and lowered the height of the mainmast.

" Ought we not to lower another boat, and go in search of
Master Simeon ? " said I to the captain.

"No," replied he shortly ; "there is no occasion to Ije uneasy
yet."

" What distance do you think we are, then, from the land ? "

" More than three miles."

I made a gesture of surj^^^ise; I thought we were much
nearer the cliffs. Nevertheless, in spite of his apparent calmness,
the captain walked to and fro with an impatience quite unusual
in him. He had the rockets brought out; one of these pro-
jectiles, which he suddenly sent ^^p himself, opened a luminous
track in the darkness, but it only lighted up the waves. A
second rocket, thrown more to the right, occasioned a cry of
delight : we had seen the boat exactly in the line of light left
by the rocket.

The bell was again rung to guide the rowers. Soon we heard
the sound of their voices and the boatswain's sharp whistle.
The sailors, understanding this signal, ran to the stem of the
vessel, holding several tow-lines, which, thrown with precision,
fell into the boat just as it came alongside.

" Keep the boat steady, lads ! " cried the voice of Master
Simeon ; " and you up there throw a rope to the right carefully ;
we are going to lash a woman to the end." Two minutes later
Master Simeon appeared, supporting in his arms a shapeless
bundle of furs. A lantern thrown on the new-comer showed us
a pale face, with soft frightened eyes buried in a large hood.
Whilst Master Simeon made his way to the cabin, the captain
gave his orders, and the Siren resumed her course through the
darkness.

I followed Master Simeon, helping him to support the young
woman whom he had brought with him, and very anxious to
know the details of his perilous expedition. Scarcely had the
shipowner entered the cabin when he seized the tea-pot placed
near the stove, filled two cups with the Chinese beverage it
contained, and offered one of them to his companion. The latter

10 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

murmured some words in i\ guttural tone, drank it greedily, and
helped herself at once to a second cup. A ham and sea biscuits
were brought, and the large slice I gave the new-comer dis-
appeared with amazing rapidity.

" The poor creature is dying of hunger," said Master
Simeon, " and perhaps we ought to give her food by degrees."

" Have you not questioned her ? " I asked.

" I have done nothing else for the last hour, and she replies
very obligingly ; only one must be her father or her mother to
understand the language in which she expresses herself. The
word Ouanga is on her lips every moment; I suppose it is her
name."

As though to justify the shipowner's supposition, the bright-
eyed young woman pointed to the ham, placed her right hand
on her chest, and among other words pronounced that of Ouanga
several times.

" I understand this time," cried Master Simeon. " Ouanga is
hungry and would like some more ham; but Ouanga might
choke herself, which would be no better than to die of hunger.
Let us give her some tea, that will be acting wisely."

"How did this poor creature come to be on that island where
you went to look for her ? " I asked of my companion.

" On an island ? " repeated Master Simeon. " One judgf^s
ill when one judges from a distance. The poor little creature
was completely stranded on an iceberg; otherwise she woulu
have gained the land, for she is active enough. How did she
come there ? . How long was she there ? This is what she has
been fully explaining to me, and which she will explain to you
in your turn if you will question her, and we shall soon know
what to think about the matter if you know anything of the
Esquimaux tongue."

Master Simeon had the food taken away, and Ouanga — we
gave her this name — sat down near the stove. She took off the
hood which covered her head and shoulders, then a sort of
fur jacket, and at last v/e saw a head adorned with black plaited
hair. Small of stature, rathei stout, at least as far as the thick
petticoat which reached down to her knees allowed us to judge,

LABRADOR. 11

Ouanga possessed all the characteristic features of her race ; her
forehead was low, her eyes large and soft ; she had the orange-
coloured skin of half-breed Indians, a rather flat nose, a wide
mouth, adorned with teeth of dazzling whiteness. Although our
presence did not seem to cause her any embarrassment, her
gestures were awkward. Suddenly she began to speak, accom-
panying her sentences with brusque movements. I imagined
that she was explaining her misadventure to us : stationed on
the ice, she had felt herself carried away, and had ended by
being stranded near the islet where Master Simeon had found
her. I was not far from the truth, as I learnt three days later.
Ouanga's narration was long ; but gradually her speech
flagged and her eyes closed. I showed her the hammock
destined for her; she immediately stretched herself on the
mattress, and soon her loud and measured breathing told us that
she was soundly asleep.

. CHAPTER n. •

The little Esquimaux — The toilet of an uncivilized beauty — An ill-bred
child — Civilizing effects of an accordion— Mr. and Mrs. Stewart — A house
under the snow — Mrs. Ablouk*Kanik.

Ouanga slept on. Master Simeon was filling his pipe for the
third time, when the captain and those of the crew who were
not on duty on board came in and grouped themselves round the
stove. All were silent, hoping that the shipowner was about to
relate his adventure ; but Master Simeon, seated comfortably in
his easy-chair with his arms crossed, looked at us roguishly
without uttering a word.

" Will you not tell us something about your little
excursion ? " I said to him at last.

" There is little to tell," at once replied the shipowner, " and
you partly know it. On leaving the ship we struck out straight
towards the peak which, like you, I had taken for a small island ;
but either we steered our boat badly, or we were caiTied by the

12 MY H AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

current, for we struck against an ice-bank far above the place
we wished to reach. My brave fellows had hard work,, I can
assure you, for the darkness was so intense beneath the cliffs we
could hardly see each other. From time to time we shouted to
attract the attention of the person we wanted to help, then we
left off rowing and listened for an answer. We had neglected
taking a lantern with ns, forgetting that night was coming on ;
and I very much regretted this carelessness, as I began to think
we should lose our way, for the ice-banks which from here seem
to form a straight line are in realitv indented with numerous
deep bays. We had just stood out to sea, and I was wondering
whether it would not be more prudent to return to the Siren
and wait for the moon to rise, when we heard a cry. In less
than ten minutes we came u|)on an iceberg, on which, standing
close against a ]»er])endicular wall, was poor Ouanga. It was no
small affair to get the ])Oor creature into the boat ; the snow
cracked under her feet, and at each movement she made, the
block Ox ice which carried her shook and threatened to capsize.
Our boatswain is a fine fellow, captain ; it was he who had
the idea of forming a kind of bridge with our oars, and then
had the courage to venture on it himself, to go after the jioor
deserted girl."

"Deserted? Do you think there has been some crime in
this?"

"No, no. The Esquimaux are gentle; and, although they
do not value their women veiy much, "they would not willingly
condemn her to death. It was an accident : nothing more."

We lost ourselves in conjectures, and each one told yarns
about Esquimaux carried away on ice})ergs ; no unforamon
event, as it appeared. Our ca]>tain, whose fsither had sailed in
all the polar seas, assured us that befoi-e the arrival of the
Moravian Brothers at Labradi^r, the natives, or Little Esquimaux,
as they are commonly called, used to strangle their old people
who had become feeble and incapable of getting their living.
■These barbarous acts have ceased, but the Esquimaux is still
scarcely civili/ed. The severe climate in which he lives, makes
hunting and fishi?ig necessary, and obliges him to lead a nomad

Il^vfl'

'^'^Z^.,t;ijML'i^- ^ -^^ '

^^^'^:^

LABRADOR. 13

life. Long fasts encourage gluttony; and one can truly say
of this people, that they live to eat instead of eating to live.

Before supper, I went up to take a turn on deck. What was
my surprise to find myself in a kind of half daylight. High up
in the sky, at last cleared of the grey snow-laden clouds which
had veiled her for a week, the moon shone brilliantly, and
flooded the sea and clifis with her white, silvery light. Nothing
can be grander than these mountains of ice thus illumined —
sometimes cut in sharp ridges, sometimes rounded like cupolas ;
but a vague feeling of sadness crept over me before this stereo-
typed picture. The air seemed sharper and more biting than
in the morning ; the thermometer had, in fact, gone down
several degrees.

Our evening meal, invariably composed of bacon, salt beef,
or preserved mutton, with rice, beans, or lentils, was very
quickly despatched. Master Simeon, a firm advocate for tem-
perance, a virtue still more necessary in these rigorous climates
than elsewhere, allowed the crew no other drink than tea. It
required a holiday or some perilous work to get a distribution
of grog, which was the more appreciated on account of its
scarcity. The sailors, with their pipes alight, stretched them-
selves on mattresses around the stove, whilst Master Simeon and
the captain undertook a quiet hand at cards, which lasted until
nine o'clock. At this appointed hour the lights were extin-
guished, and I was lulled to sleep by the creaking of the ship
and the splashing of the waves against her hull.

The next morning, whilst I was making my toilet, I saw
Ouanga's large eyes open and fix themselves on mo with artless
curiosity. She came and took hold of my hand, as though she
wore wishing me good morning; then turning towards the
basin, full of soapy water which I had just used, she took ofi"
a kind of tunic which served her as a dress, and displayed
herself attired simply in her fur pantaloons. After a moment's
hesitation and a series of comic grimaces, she washed her face
and hands with an awkwardness which showed how little she
was accustomed to such an operation. I hastened to give her a
towel; she took it, examined it, and turned it round twenty

14 MY BAUBLES IN THE NEW WGBLD.

times ; evidently this white, finely spun linen was a curiosity to
her. I handed her a comb ; she unplaited her hair and began
at once to comb it. When she began to plait it again I handed
her a pot of pomade ; she smelt it, and turned away with a
look of disgust, as though the smell of lemon were very ob-
noxious to her. To make up for this she tried to dip her fingers
in the oil of the lamp which lighted us; and succeeding in her
attempt, she copiously greased her hair.

Master Simeon entered the cabin, and Ouanga at once ran
up to him and patted him gently on the shoulder. She put on
all her clothes except the hood, and then pointed to the tea-pot
and cups. As on the preceding evening, she ate with disagree-
able greediness ; it was not only hunger but a national custom
which caused her to swallow the pieces we helped her to without
biting them. I had the idea of cutting up her meat as one does
for children, and offering her a fork ; but whilst I was carefully
cutting up the piece intended for her, the nimble young woman
robbed my plate, and part of my meat had disappeared before
I had time to cry out.

In short, Ouanga was a great, badly-behaved child. She
took Master Simeon's pipe without the least ceremony, and
puffed away at it in a manner which clearly showed that it was
not her first trial. The Esquimaux women do indeed smoke
sometimes, but it is by no means a general custom among them.

As soon as she was satisfied — that is to say, as soon as the
dishes were taken away — Ouanga prowled inquisitively round the
cabin, touching everything, feeling everywhere, and questioning
us by gesture and look as to the things of which she did not
know the use. My clotlies seemed to interest her more than
anything else — their shape and cut, but especially the buttons
with which they were trimmed and which she tried to pull off.
I had the ill-advised idea of showing her the box in which
I kept my reserve of buttons ; the box immediately disappeared,
and was probably stowed away in some hidden pocket of the
young woman's clothes. Neither my peremptory demands nor
my vexed look could regain me my treasure; either Ouanga
could not understand my demands, or else she pretended not
to understand them, and I was done out of my box of buttons.

LABRADOR. 15

When we went up on deck the young woman at once
followed us, but she quickly ran down again when she felt
the cold air, and muffled herself up in her hood ; then, coming
back, she placed herself near me. The weather was fine, and
the sun, which was every day getting higher in the heavens,
made the influence of his pale rays felt, although somewhat
feebly. Ouanga's looks were directed towards the land, which
we were now at some distance from, and she uttered an exclama-
tion. After attentively watching the man at the helm, she
pointed to the cliffs and tried to make him turn the wheel.
Seeing that the ship continued her route undisturbed, she ran
up to Master Simeon, seized his arm, and with her right hand
pointed first to the ship's boat and then to the land, whilst she
talked rapidly. One could not doubt but that the poor creature
was begging him to take her back to the shore which we seemed
to be leaving behind us. Seeing that they paid no attention
to her entreaties and the ship pitilessly continued her course,
Ouanga began to groan and then to cry. Her tears flowed
freely, and we were all moved at the sight of her despair. The
sailors tried to make the young woman understand that she
would be on land the next day, that they would then take her
back to her tribe, and that she must not cry. All was in vain ;
she jumped into the boat and tried to detach it.

" Well, really," said Master Simeon, " I doubt whether we
ought not to take her back to land. Her tribe is perhaps
camped in front of us; and when she sees that we are leaving
them behind the poor creature is capable of throwing herself
into the water. How can we explain that it is for her good
that we are keeping her ? "

" Can we not go and look for them ? " I asked.

" We should be obliged to climb those cliffs first, Mr.
Parisian, and the thing seems to me impossible. Let us leave
this poor woman to cry, although her sobs are heart-rending :
humanity urges us now to stop up our ears."

Like a child, who, after a long fit of passion and a tempest
of tears, sobs, sighs, and then falls asleep, Ouanga, weakened,
conquered, and watched, went back to the cabin, threw herself

16 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

on her mattress, and soon slept soundly. She did not awake
until dinner time, and then ate as usual, with a very good appetite.
She refused the pipe filled with tobacco which Master Simeon
offered her, and crouched down near the stove, where for a long
while she watched the red-hot cinders falling from the grate. I
persuaded the young woman to follow me on deck. She hesitated
at first, and then made up her mind to go with me ; but directly
she saw the land she began to cry again, and my consolations,
delivered in French, English, and Spanish, proved as unsuccess-
ful as ever.

All at once the sound of an accordion was heard in the cabin,
played by one of the sailors, who sometimes enlivened us with
his Canadian airs. Ouanga was startled, and cast frightened
looks around her ; then, as though attracted, she went down to
the cabin, and stood spell-bound before the musician. When he
left off playing, she went up to him, put her hand out towards
the instrument, and then drew it back as though afraid to touch
it. The sailor began another air, and the young woman sat
down by him, examining with curiosity the movement of his
fingers. Was she sensible of the harmony, or was it only the
noise that attracted her? What is certain is, that when the
musician retired, after putting his instrument into its box,
Ouanga tried to detain him, and followed him on deck.

The next day, as soon as it was light, I saw that wo were
approaching land. We passed between two small islands ; then
we went through a narrow channel, and came out unexpectedly
into an extensive bay. In front of us lay a flat shore, and to our
left a promontory, surmounted with a pole, from the top of which
waved the English flag. I had hardly recovered from my sur-
prise when the sailors shouted repeated hurrahs. The end of our
difficult voyage was at last attained.

Soon, and as though they sprang from the plain of snow
which extended before us, a score of men appeared, making
signals to us. An hour later the Siren^ perfectly sheltered,
dropped anchor alongside a wharf constructed on piles. We
were in a kind of narrow channel not unlike that in the hollow
of which the town of St. Thomas, in the island of the same name,

LABRADOR. 17

is- Imilt ; only, inbtcad of palm trees, orange trees, and pome-
granates crowning the heights, blocks of ico with sharp peaks
and fantastic forms rose around us.

Ouanga, mad with joy, whirled herself round on deck like a
squirrel in a cage. In her haste to leave the ship she would
certainly have fallen into the water had I not watched her. At
last Master Simeon's employes were able to come on board ; they
had received no news from Europe for a year, so Heaven knows
what huggings, and what an avalanche of questions, we were
overwhelmed with. The hunting and fishing had been good, and
the Siren would go back well laden with barrels of oil, bear skins,
and walrus tusks. Master Simeon introduced his principal
partner, Mr. Stewart, to me ; I say principal, for all the men em-
ployed in the statioi. had a share in the profits realized. My
character as tourist made these hard-working men smile, but I
nevertheless received a very cordial welcome.

Ouanga was not long in attracting attention, and what wo
knew of her history was quickly told. We then learnt, that the
evening before several Esquimaux belonging to a village about
ninety miles oflF, had come to make inquiries about the young
woman. The tribe were in great distress, and could not explain
her disappearance. Her husband had left her occupied with
watching the fishing-lines, and the block of ice on which she was
had moved away. They had searched the coast, but in vain, and
they thought Ouanga lost.

No one knew the Esquimaux language sufficiently to explain
these things to Ouanga, so we were obliged to wait for the
return of the interpreter, who was now on an expedition. The
young woman questioned each of the workmen ; but they could
only answer with fragments of sentences, which did not seem to
satisfy her at all. One of the new-comers tried to explain to her
that the next day she would be taken back to her village. Did
she understand him ?

Mr. Stewart led us to his house, then imbedded in six feet of
snow, like all the other buildings in the trading-station. This
trading-station — I use the name given it by the proprietors — was
composed of four extensive buildings, three of which served

18 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

as warehouses, and the fourth as a dwelling-place. One entrance,
only communicating with a long corridor, gave access to this
house, divided into small apartments. The rooms had no furni-
ture but what was barely necessary ; but my surprise was great
on being introduced to Mrs. Stewart, a graceful Irish lady, who
had bravely followed her husband to this desolate place. Two
other women, both Canadians, constituted, with Mrs. Stewart, the
whole of the feminine population of the station.

Mrs. Stewart, owing to her position, had a private suite of
rooms — that is to say, a bed-room, sitting-room, and dining-room,
lighted both day and night by lamps with unclarificd oil, the
odour of which was anything but agreeable. A large stove,
placed in the general sitting-room, heated the whole house ; they
burnt a kind of peat, gathered in the neighbourhood, which also
had a very bad sickening smell, and almost made me ill.

However, I grew accustomed to these disagreeable odours
sooner than I had dared hope ; only every time I came in from
the open air I held my nose for a few seconds in order to
accustom myself gradually to the heavy and to me almost
pestilential atmosphere, in which my companions were living
without appearing to notice it.

They put up a bed for me in Master Simeon's room, and I
had the use of half the large table on which ho made up his
accounts, an occupation which began the night of our arrival.
They proceeded without delay to unload the Siren, and it was no
little pleasure to Mrs. Stewart to have half a dozen cases bearing
her name to unpack. Master Simeon had thought about the
household and toilet of his partner's wife, and had brought her
many pretty and fashionable things. At dinner time, instead of
the long fur dressing-gown she had worn all day, Mrs. Stewart
appeared in an elegant costume which literally astounded
Ouanga.

I spent my first day in visiting all the warehouses of the
station, admiring the barrels of oil, the sacks of feathers, and
the piles of bear, reindeer, and hare skins, collected by Master
Simeon's laborious workmen. What pleased the shipowner
more than anything was the sight of a quantity of walrus tusks,

L ABB AD OR. 19

an article in great requisition at New York. The property thus
accumulated would bring the owner a profit of several thousand
dollars.

Ouanga had accompanied us everywhere, and twice she led
me to the shed, where were about thirty fine dogs struggling and
howling piteously ; five or six of them were Newfoundlanders,
and were, I was told, the leaders in the sledge team. I
admired the Labrador dog, a similar breed to the Newfound-
land, with jet black hair, a fine shape, and intelligent head.
The rest of the kennel was composed of Esquimaux dogs, so
much like wolves that one has to look twice to distinguish them.

I passed the evening talking with Mrs. Stewart and asking
her questions. The young woman did not seem to feel her
isolated life very dull ; she often accompanied her husband on
his hunting and fishing excursions. Summer and the long days
were coming on ; they would at last be able to leave the house in
which the darkness obliged them to remain, and this prospect
was consoling. As to the cold, one would never have thought
where we were sitting that we were under several feet of snow,
and that the thermometer outside was nearly twenty-five degrees
below zero.

I slept soundly that night and so long, that I had only just
finished dressing when I heard some one calling me to breakfast.
"When that meal was finished I went outside to breathe the
fresh air, and Ouanga led me towards the promontory from
which waved the English flag. The hardened snow did not
<iven crunch beneath my feet ; but I admired my companion's
powers of equilibrium as she rapidly climbed several slopes,
whilst I was slipping about awkwardly and once or twice almost
fell. At last we got out of the inlet which sheltered the station ,
■and by the light of the rising sun I saw a flat, white, extensive
plain stretching before me, whilst on my left rose mountains
which seemed to me transparent.

In our countries, when the land is covered with snow, bushes
And trees rise up here and there, and one feels that there is life,
life ready to awaken beneath the great white mantle, the
brilliancy of which dazzles the eye ; but the vast plain spread out

20 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

before me was bo desolate-looking, that I turned sadly from it.
Ouanga, on the contrary, smilingly examined the horizon ; slio
pointed to a spot in the direction of the mountains, and then
made a long discourse. She was undoubtedly talking to mo of
lier village, and I again tried to explain to her that she would
bo taken back there on the following day ; but I had some trouble
in getting her to return to the station.

My day passed in seeing barrels and bales of goods taken
down to the Siren ; I even T ped in the work, as much to pass
away the time as to escape from the heavy, sickening atmosphere
of the house. In the evening a whist-party was arranged, and
Mrs. Stewart helped us to some excellent tea, for which Ouanga
appeared to have a special liking. About nine o'clock every on©
was asleep in this secluded corner of Hudson's Bay, disputed by
man with the walrus and white bear.

I was awakened next morning by loud talking, and
entering the dining-room, I found Master Simeon and Mr.
Stewart in company with a man whom I did not recognize as
one of the workmen I had helped the evening before. It was
the interpreter, a Canadian, who had been almost brought up
among the Esquimaux. He had just returned from his
expedition, and ho told us that the whole tribe to which
Mrs. Oblouk-Kanick "(day of snow) belonged, were roaming
along the sea-shore in search of the young woman. Mrs.
Oblouk-Kanick was no other than she whom we called Ouanga,
a word which signifies I or me, and which we had taken for her
name. They called to the young woman. She was not in the
house, and no one had seen her that morning. We went to the
warehousos, then on board the Siren, shouting her name at the
pitch of our voices. All in vain. Ouanga did not appear ; and
after having been round the stores twenty times, searched all
the rooms in the house, climbed the promontory to examine
the plain where I had accompanied her the day before, we were
obliged to give up the search. The foundling had taken flight ;
but where and by what meanp. ? We were lost in conjectures.
The sun, which suddenly rose, lighted up the vast snowy plain.
Our eyes wandered over this immense desert in vain; not a black
spot stained its white shroud.

LABRADOR. 21

CHAPTER III.

Tho sledge drive — A rustic supper — TIio Oblouk-Kanick household — A snow
village — Origin of the Esquimaux — A new use for buttons — Return to
Canada.

OuANOA was gone ; wo could no longer doubt the fact. Through
not understanding our explanations, and seeing no preparations
made to take her back to her people, tho poor young woman,
ill-calculating the distance, must have set out during the night.
The preceding day, as on the day of our arrival, she had roamed
about the dog-shod a good deal, and I mentioned this circum-
stance to my host.

"Tho harness is locked up," replied Mr. Stewart; "and if
they had harnessed one of the dogs, all the others would have
howled in a way to attract our attention ; nevertheless, let us go
and see."

Wo went to the shed ; tho dogs were all there.

" The poor creature will perish," said the interpreter. " There
is not a soul on the plain, and her strength will fail her before
she can reach the storehouse."

" Have a sledge got ready," cried Mr. Stewart. " Although
she has the start of us by a few hours, my dogs will soon over-
take her ; we cannot leave her to perish."

There was a short consultation held. The interpreter wished
to set out again at once, but Mr. Stewart insisted on his taking
rest.

" Have the Newfoundlanders harnessed to your largo sledge,
Stewart," said Master Simeon all at once, " for I shall certainly
go with you. Are you in the humour for travelling ? " added
the shipowner, turning towards me.

" To be sure I am," I cried. " I only wish we were already
far on the way, for I feel very uneasy about poor Ouanga."

An hour later two large sledges were ready. I took my
place in one with Mr. Stewart ; Master Simeon and the inter-
preter went in the other. All the inhabitants of the little

22 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

settlement came out to see us start. The dogs, impatient to bo
off, danced madly about, whilst their companions in the kennel
howled dismally. Every moment disputes were taking place
between the dogs in harness ; they showed their teeth, growled,
bit each other, and got entangled in the reins ; but at last the
signal for starting was given, and with a violent jolt, whicii
almost upset me, I felt myself carried away with a rapidity
far surpassing all I had imagined. Our sledge, which was
lighter than that occupied by the interpreter and Master
Simeon, was harnessed to seven large native dogs, whose black
skins contrasted vividly with the white plain. Wo rapidly
took the advance ; my companion's long whip served rather
as a motive of excitement than an instrument of correction,
for it was enough to wave the lash over the heads of our
singular coursers to make them bound madly forward.

" At the rate we are going we ought soon to overtake the
fugitive," said I to my companion ; " but I doubt whether your
dogs can keep up this furious pace long."

"They will gallop as long as I want them to; these
Labrador dogs are noble animals," replied Mr. Stewart, " How-
ever, I shall take care to hold them in presently ; if, as I hope,
we pick up Ouanga, our weight will force these rascals to
slacken their speed."

Meanwhile, wo were carried away like a whirlwind, and the
interpreter's dogs were left fir behind. We followed a kind of
beaten path on the hardened snow, most likely traced by t^e
Esquimaux in their search for their lost friend.

We galloped for an hour without stopping over the immense
plain, in the midst of which we seemed lost. The jolting was
no slight aflfair; the dogs pulled with jerks, and the leader
often made unexpected zigzags ; besides, over this frozen ground
we had the alternatives of good and bad roads. Sometimes a
violent jolt threatened to send me out of our vehicle. I only
Bpeak for myself, for my guide seemed to foresee the shocks,
against which I stiffened myself in a way which would soon
have broken my arms. By degrees I let myself go with the
movement of the sledge, and found it decidedly more com-

LABRADOR. 23

fortable ; but the cold literally cut my face until my lips were
bleeding.

The plain, so flat in appearance, rose and fell in long- undula-
tions. We often descended a slope with giddy speed ; then our
dogs were obliged to make an effort to climb the opposite hill-
side. When the dogs' excitement began to cool down, their
drivers became more masters of them, and the sledges followed
each other so closely that we were able to exchange a few
words. Soon we came to a hill, where we were obliged to
alight to relieve the dogs, and stretch our frozen limbs. Arrived
at the top, vve found ourselves again in front of a white, flat,
interminable plain. The word desert ought not be applied to
the Savannahs, but rather to these immense lifeless plains,
where reigns such terrible silence.

"Are there no herbs, no shrubs, no trees, in this land?"
I asked of my companion.

♦' Certainly there are," replied he ; " there is a fine prairie
five or six feet below us, where one can see the fresh green
grass in the month of July. There are also shrubs, and we
shall see the tops of some of them as we get nearer the
mountains ; as for trees, all the tops of the hills in front of us
are covered with woods."

We had been on our way almost two hours, and I calculated
that we must have gone over at least thirty miles of ground.
The interpreter and Master Simeon had taken the lead in theii
turn, and I saw the latter point his telescope along the horizon
every minute. Suddenly a black speck appeared to our left.

" A reindeer ! " cried my companion.

" No," said Master Simeon ; " a sledge."

The dogs, vigorously held in, stopped short, then lay down
breathless on the snow, which they began to lick. The black
speck grew larger, and soon we saw an Esquimaux. His dogs
came tearing down upon ours ; and at the risk of being bitten,
I helped Mr. Stewart to hold in our coursers, who were quite
ready to fall on the new-comers.

The Esquimaux was hunting, and I saw three hares and
a sable on the side of his sledge. He quite shrieked with

24 . ' MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

delight when ho learnt that Mrs. Oblouk-Kanick was living ;
and, joining in our pursuit, ho travelled with us. Suddenly he
urged on his dogs, pointing to the horizon, and, thanks to the
lightness of his sledge, soon outstripped us. Master Simeon's
telescope, levelled in the direction indicated by the native, made
him utter a joyful exclamation. Ouanga was in front of us.

For my part, this news acted as a stimulant, and made the
blood tingle in my veins ; for, in spito of the weight of skins
over me, my limbs were beginning to get numb.

An exciting race now ensued, and the Esquimaux would
certainly have gained the prize, had not his sledge been sharply
overturned in wishing to bar the way to the interpreter. Wo
stopped a moment to help the Esquimaux ; but during this time
the interpreter and Master Simeon had reached the fugitive,
who, exhausted, and perhaps frightened at seeing herself
pursued, had just fallen unconscious on the frozen ground.

A spoonful of rum, followed by vigorous rubbing, soon
restored poor Ouanga to life, and her first movement was an
attempt at flight ; but the interpreter and her countryman
managed to reassure the young woman. A consultation was
held. At about fifteen miles from the place we had reached
was a snow-hut, constructed partly by the Esquimaux, and
partly by the workmen of the trading-station, which served as
a kind of storehouse. It was agreed that we should rest under
this shelter, and then pursue our way as far as Ouanga's tribe.
It was on my account that Mr. Stowart and Master Simeon
had proposed this halt, a kindness for which I warmly thanked
them.

In order to make room for Ouanga, the interpreter took his
j)lace in the Esquimaux's sledge, and we resumed our journey
forwards. The dogs, hungry and tired, were at last gentle and
tractable enough, so that wo were able to drive side by side.
The sun was just setting when we came in sight of the shelter
where we intended to pass the night, a simple snow-hut, the
entrance to which was an opening hardly large enough for a
man to get through. The dogs, immediately unharnessed, were
driven before us into this gloomy retreat. Ouanga, guided by the

o
o

:?,
.J

"J
a

z
-»;
p
o

26 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

the encampment. Imagine about thirty mounds of an irregular
form sheltered by a hill from the north wind, a 8no\N -clad hill
on which here and there were pine trees at some distance
from each other. Black smoke was issuing from the tops of a
few of these mounds ; the Esquimaux burned peat as at the
trading-station.

We were hailed by a little, portly man, with a radiant face,
who was talking with several of his countrymen, and seemed to
be watching for our arrival. It was Mr. Oblouk-Kanick ; he
had come to invite us to his house. He did not thank us for
having saved his wife ; in that wo had only performed a natural
duty. The little man preceded us through a long muddy
gallery, which led to the inferior of his dwelling. There we
saw Ouanga busying herself in households alBfairs, and talking
at the same time with a dozen women accompanied by as
many children.

The young woman came and shook Master Simeon's hand,
and made him sit down on a bear-skin near the stove. As fof
me, I coughed enough to kill myself, and was quite blinded. I
think I had never been in a more noisome hole in my life than
that in which I now found myself. The smoke of a large lamp,
mingled with that of the peat, and the smell of rancid oil, joined
to that of refuse of all kinds which strewed the ground,
suffocated me. I tried to make my way to the door, thinking
that it would be impossible to breathe in this suffocating atmo-
sphere, made more unbearable by the presence of unpleasant
smelling people.

The hut gradually became empty, and the only remaining
occupants of the narrow space were Ouanga's father, her sister,
and two sisters-in-law, which was still too many.

My fit of coughing was at last allayed, and my eyes ceased
watering; I could gradually distinguish my surroundings.
The only room of Mr. Oblouk-Kanick's winter residence was of
an oval form, six feet long and four feet wide. The eatables
were piled up in a little loft, and a heap of skins served at the
same time as seat, table, and bed. Ouanga, her sisters-in-law,
and all their friends were naked down to the waist, and did not

LAD RAD on. 27

seem at all disturbed by this simplicity of costume. Besides,
the heat became so intense, that, following the example of Mr.
Stewart and Master Simeon, I soon reduced my costume to my
shirt and trousers.

The Oblouk-Kanick household wished to do us honour, and a
large fish, a kind of sturgeon, caught in a neighbouring lake, so
I was told, was soon broiling over the peat fire, and. renewed
my fit of suffocation ; nevertheless, I am convinced Ouanga's hut
was one of the most comfortable in the village. The leaf-hut of
the Indian is a palace compared to the narrow, bad-smelling
cellars, in which the Esquimaux shuts himself up.

How little it requires to live, and to live happily ; for all the
people in the tribe appeared to me to be happy ! The Esquimaux
has hardly any other desire than that of eating; therefore,
when the hunting and fishing are good, his highest wishes are
fulfilled. Fish, walruses, seals, and elks furnish all his wants ;
their flesh feeds him, their skin clothes him, and their bones
•serve as the chief inaterial for the fabrication of the things he
has need of.

Mrs. Oblouk-Kanick would take us to the place where she
had almost perished, and I wa' surprised to find that we were
hardly a mile from the sea. They made us visit several dens, all
like, except in dimension, the one I had been vn. I made inquiries,
hoping that one of these dwellings might be unoccupied, and
that we could camp there. Vain hope ! We were obliged to pass
the night in the narrow space of Ouanga's hut ; and although I
placed myself near the passage, thinking that a little air might
enter through the door, the said door was so well shut, that I
was forced to resign myself to sufibcation, which I considered
would be certain.

However, nothing so alarming happened; but directly I
awoke I hurried out to get a long breath of icy air. Master
Simeon and Mr. Stewart again visited the huts, making ex-
changes. As evening came on it was agreed that we should
set out again for the trading-station as soon as the moon
appeared on the horizon.

I had thought for a moment of staying a few days in the

28 MY ItAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

village, in order to study the customs which seemed to me
singular, and to get a correct idea of the Esquimaux. Hardly
had I expressed this desire, when I received twenty invitations ;
they were anxious to take me to the hunting and fishing, and
to let me witness some of their festivals. The summer was
coming on, and the tribe would change ahout from place to
place on the borders of Hudson's Bay, from whence I was told
it would be easy to reach Canada. All this was very tempting ;
but the atmosphere of the huts gave me such violent headaches,
and the food to which I should have been condemned was so
repugnant to me, that, checking my curiosity and love of
adventure, I made up my mind to return wich my companions.

On the way I learnt from the interpreter that the Esquimaux
say themselves that they originally came from Asia. At a
remote period, which learned geographers date as far back as the
reign of Ghengiskhan, a considerable emigration of Tartars
peopled the Aleutian isles, Alaska and Labrador. Had tho
fugitives continued a direct line, they would have reached
Greenland, and thus peopled the farthest confines of America.
What is certain is that the Esquimaux whom I had the oppor-
tunity of seeing bore an incontestible resemblance to the Tartar
type. Short of stature, copper-coloured skin, stoutly built, eyes
obliquely set, large mouth, thin beard, hair more often black
than fair, such is the Esquimaux of Labrador. In short, the
men are very plain-looking ; but tho women have a lively air,
and their large expressive eyes lend a charm to their faces.

Although tho loading of the Siren was steadily got on
with by all the workmen. Master Simeon had several hunting
and fishing parties arranged for my benefit. I killed some
hares, a fox, and a seal, but I only saw walruses, elks, and
bears in imagination, which I regret even now ; for who ever
travelled in the polar seas without encountering a white bear ?
I alone, I believe.

If the truth must be confessed, it was a dull journey, and
a trip from which I derived very little good. The vast snow-
clad landscapes, always the same, always silent, make me feel
melancholy whenever I shut my eyes and see them again in

LABRADOR, 29

imagination. During tho month I passed on the borders of
Hudson's Bay, I saw not an insect, bird, or plant. So when
tho bell for departure rang, I hailed the sound with delight.

Mrs. Oblouk-Kanick came to wish us good-bye, and I saw
all tho brass buttons which she had stolen from me displayed
effectively on the fur cloak in which she was enveloped. Tho
young woman appeared to be very proud of these ornaments,
and I very much regretted that I had not another box to offer
her. She gave me a fox-skin in token of friendship, and several
other little things made of bone, which I had asked her to
get for me. In recognition of this service I took her to my
portmanteau, and let her choose what pleased her. She did not
wait to be asked, but immediately pounced on my looking-glass,
a shirt, two towels, a paper collar, and, in short, used much
discretion in her choice, taking only the objects she saw were
in pairs.

On the 20th of Juno the Siren left her moorings ; towed by
the sailors and workmen of the trading-station, she quitted tho
little bay which had sheltered her for a month. I bade farewell
to my hosts, whoso courage I admired. It is true that after
four or five years of this severe exile, they would most likely
return to Canada rich enough to live happily. I wished them
all good fortune, especially Mr. Stewart and his charming wife.

The channel was soon passed and the mainsail unfurled.
The farewell hurrahs were shouted, and our bows cut the
waves. The cliffs, tho ice-mountains, gra(^ually assumed a
bluish tint, and the next day at sunrise wo were between sea
and sky.

With what delight five weeks later I hailed tho flowery
banks of the St. Lawrence ! I travelled to Quebec by land, so
happy was I to find myself among plants and flowers, and to
see the birds flying.

Honour to those brave pioneers who seek the still unknown
passage to the North Pole! For my part, I have sworn,
although perhaps somewhat tardily, that no one shall ever again
persuade me to visit those lands of darkness, ice, and snow.
There is nothing like sunshine.

A CANADIAINT FAMILY.

CHArTER I.

Tho Canadian cross-bill — On a hunting excursion — A chance meeting —
What a few acres of snow were worth — Montcalm and Wolfe — The
St, Lawrence — Quebec— Tlie forests — The storm — An American hat —
A wrong direction — Another meeting.

The Canadian cross-bill {Loxia Enucleator) is a sparrow with
orange-red plumage and wings edged with white, a specimen
of which my friend, Professor Sumichrast, very much desired.
On my departure for Canada tho learned ornithologist urgently
begged me to bring him back two specimens of these beautiful
birds, which I ought to find in abundance in tho woods around
Quebec. My friend had taken the trouble to write out a long
description for me in order that I should not confuse the real
cross-bill with similar species. Thus I knew that in old age
tho bird in question is of an orange-red, the female brown, and
the young ones ash-coloured. But in its first year the plumage
of the cross-bill is a deep crimson, and it was a bird in that
livery that my friend wished for.

A week after my arrival at Quebec, I provided myself with
a gun, and leaving the neighbourhood of the town, went in
search of the cross-bill my friend coveted. It would have been
a very simple matter to make acquaintance with one of tho
hunters of tho country, who would have taken me at once to
the fir tree woods, the favourite resort of the cross-bill; but
this was a way of proceeding quite contrary to my custom.
It seemed to me much more ingenious to go straight to the

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 31

encounter until some good fortune helped me to find the bird
whoso plumage I had promined my friend. I was in a civilized
country, ho I only exposed myself to taking a longer route than
necessary, and at that time a few nfiiles more or less was a matter
of little importance to me.

Ho I started on my way along a road bordered with fine crops
turning to gold under the burning sun — a July sun, and, what
is more, a Canadian sun.

After walking for a quarter of an hour, the high-road seemed
to me uninteresting, so I struck out over a hill crowned with
woods, situated towards my left. On my way I carefully ex-
amined the bushes from which flew hosts of sparrows. The
cross-bills scarcely ever leave the forests ; but, in spite of ornith-
ologists, one might have ventured on to the plain. So many
birds with brown, orange, and ash-coloured plumage flew before
my eyes, that I thought Canada must be full of cross-bills, and
for a moment entertained the hope of taking back to my friend
a dozen or so of the Canadian species.

Three shots fired successively put me in possession of a
robin, a swallow, and a cross-bill. As a further stroke of
fortune, the sound of my gun brought up three natives, without
large beaks, but whose large eyes regarded me in no very
friendly manner.

" Holloa there ! " cried one of them to me in English ; " ure
you trying to kill some one ? "

The <iuestion wafi made in an impudent, even threatening
tone, and I was about to reply with the same amiability, when
an enormous Newfoundland dog bounded up with glittering
eyes, bristling hair, open jaws, lowered tail, and all the look
of an animal of his kind when ready to make a spring.

" Call off your dog," I cried to my questioner. '• I am not
going to let him bite me, but I should be sorry to kill the
brute."

" Ontario will not do you any harm, don't be afraid," said
the man, who nevertheless called back his dog on seeing me lift
my gun.

The dog stalked behind his master, who came up to me.

32 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

My position was rather embarrassing ; rid of the dog, it was
not withont a certain amount of apprehension that I saw its
master and his two companions approach me. I lowered my
spin and stood my ground firmly, but, to my surprise, the three
men bowed to me very politely.

"A scanty dinner," said one of them, unceremoniously
handling the game in my hand and examining it.

I cxi)lained that my game was to be stuffed, and that I was in
search of the Loxia Enucleator, the plumage of which I described
to them.

" I do not think that bird lives in our fields," said my new
friend ; " but who can say ? Look for it ; but do not fire into
the bush as you did just now ; you might kill or wound some
one, which is always an expensive business."

I learnt that my questioners were Irishmen, employed in
farming on the land where I now found myself. They very
obligingly showed me the path leading to the fir-tree forest, the
black foliage of which I could see in the distance ; and I set out
again, greeted with a good-day by one or two workpeople, both
men and women, who regarded me curiously as I passed.

I was quite surprised at the heat of the sun, and the verdure
which surrounded me. Two years before I had seen this
country covered with several feet of snow, and it had then
appeared to me barren and desolate; here and there thin
skeletons of trees, a grey sky, and flights of black crows dotting
the whitened ground. I was reminded df Voltaire's words in
1763, when the Treaty of Paris ceded our Canadian possessions
to England : " We have just lost a few acres of snow." These
few acres of snow constitute in reality a country twice the size
of France, covered with virgin forests, rich in iron, mercurj'-,
and lead mines, and fertile in agricultural productions. This
country belonged to France for two centuries; it was ma,de
illustrious by Denys, Jacques Cartier, liaimbault, Lasalle, and
Charlevoix, heroic explorers, and lastly, by the Marquis de
Montcalm, who, by the sole resource of his genius, defended it
for several months against the English.

Montcalm, Marquis of Saint Veran, was a grand character ;

iiii

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 33

invested in 1756 with the command in chief of the troops of
North America, he fought against the English a score of times
with only a handful of men, and at last, forced into lan unequal
struggle beneath the walls of Quebec, he was killed at tlie onset.
His rival, General Wolfe, perished in the same battle. A
monument has been erected on the spot where the two warriors
fell, and bears no other inscription than thein names.

It was in the year 1497 that the Venetian Cabot, then in
the service of England, discovered Canada and took possession
of it. The Frenchman Denys, sent out by Francis the First,
visited the St. Lawrence in 1506. Several years later the
Spaniards appeared in this country in their turn. It is said
that, not finding on the coast any trace of the gold mines, in
search of which they had come, the Castillians returned, saying:
Aca nada (here, nothing). The two words,' retained by the
natives, and repeated later on to the French, were taken by
them for the name of the country.

Canada is divided into two large parts: Upper and Lower j^^^^jt^
Canada. Upper Canada is separated from the state of New. , ^^^«
York by the chain of lakes : Ontario, Erie, Huron, Superior, ^ / ^ .j j
and Lake of the Woods. Lower Canada, bounded on the east
by Maine and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, has Quebec for its
capital, and its chief towns are : Montreal, Three Elvers, and
St. John.

Quebec, the former capital of Canada, and now the principal
town of Lower Canada, was founded, in 1608, on an immense
promontory formed by the St. Lawrence and the St. Charles.
In appearance quite a French town, it contains a numerous
population, and is divided into high and low town. The
first, protected by a citadel, and built on a steep rock which
is scaled by steps cut in the cliff, may be regarded as the old
town. The old-faphioned buildings and the irregular streets
contrast singularly with the straight streets and the elegant,
coquettish, modem architecture of the low town.

The principal buildings of Quebec are the French and
Anglian cathedrals, the houses of parliament, the market-place,
and the hospital ; below the town the river is spanned by the ^"'^j^,

34 MY a AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

1 I

famous Victoria bridge , built by the engineer Kobert Ste/enson.
The St. Lawrence, which at this place is almost three miles
wide, renders the Quebec port the central depot for the pro-
ductions of the country. Hundreds of ships at a time come here
to take in supplies of grain, flour, and wood. The country
round Quebec is very picturesque, and dotted here and there
with charming mansions. Heat and cold are two cruel enemies
to this city, where the mercury freezes in winter, and during
the summer the heat is tropical.

Strangers whom good fortune leads to this hospitable
town, willingly visit the two cascades, which are quite worth
seeing, even after those of the Niagara. First of all, the Mont-
morency river, which falls from a height of a hundred and twenty
feet; then that of la Chaudiere, two hundred and thirty feet v/ide.
From the height of Fort St. Louis, or from the promontory of the
Diamant, three hundred feet high, nothing can be more magnifi-
cent than the sight of the yellow waters of the majestic St.
Lawrence, washing a series of capes or bays whose banks have
been transformed into magnificent gardens.

The St. Lawrence, which was first explored by Jacques Cartier,
has a length of seven hundred miles ; it issues from Lake
Ontario, separates Upper Canada from the United States,
crosses Lower Canada and falls into the gulf which bears
its name. This river, the medium breadth of which is about
a mile and a quarter, carries immense quantities of water to the
sea, for it is the natural outlet of the Lakes Superior, Huron,
Michigan, Lrie, and Ontario.

Thus reflecting, I had climbed the hill and found m;, self on
the outskirts of the pine wood, where I hoped to meet with the
cross-bill Enncleator. I cast a last glance over the uneven
country which I overlooked, and Quebec, crowning a summit of
fortified rocks, appeared to me like a second Brest.

The forests of North America have nothing in common
with thoee of the tropical regions. No creepers, no birds, no
trees with varied foliage; everywhere sombre rows of black,
gigantic pine trees. In those fortunate lands where they have
the sun shining all t^e year round, life springs up with an

j£

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 35

intensity akin to prodigality: birds, quadrupeds, reptiles,
insects, one can hardly take a step without meeting a living
creature. There is never absolute silence in the tropical woods ;
both day and night alike one hears the flutter of wings in the
branches, the buzzing of insects in the air, or under the bark
of trees, and the rustling of the leaves by reptiles, with the
howling of jaguars, wild boars, conguars, the screeching of
parrots and chachalacas, or the plaintive songs of night-birds
greeting the rising or setting of the sun. In the pine-woods
reigns profound stillness, uniform monotony; a sterner nature
works in silence, and one cannot repress a vague feeling of
sadness. The tropical wood is bold, exuberant youth, believing
in its eternity ; it is the land of illusions : the pine forest, on
the contrary, represents old age, dreary, austere, disenchanted,
the land of reality.

For a few minutes I followed the outskirts of the wood, then
coming across a path, I penetrated the dense forest. A quarter
of an hour's walk brought me to the bottom of a ravine, where
enormous blocks of even, polished stone revealed the bed of a
stream. Here and there were clear pools of water swarming
with tadpoles, and a few birds were singing overhead. With
my eye on the watch I wended my way alongside the stream
in the hope of discovering the bird I had come in search of. I
walked for a long while up and down hill until I was almost
exhausted, for the heat was overpowering. At last I came to a
kind of hollow so wild and magnificent, that I determined to
rest and do justice to the provisions I had brought with me.

I passed almost two hours here, botanizing and chasing
insects ; this wild, lonely place captivated me. The wind had
gradually risen and was waving the tops of the pine trees.
Suddenly great black clouds covered the strip of sky overhead,
and the wood became dark. A rumbling sound was heard ; a
storm was about to break forth. I thought of going back to
Quebec ; but it was a two hours' walk and the rain was begin-
ning to fall, fjo that I had no other resource than to shelter
myself under the rocks until the tempest had passed over.

I found a place between two blocks of sandstone, abovo

36 MY BAKLLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

which nature had formed a roof of moss, and I had hardly
settled myself there when a flash of lightning lit up the forest,
and there was a prolonged peal of thunder just overhead.

For three hours I was kept captive between tl\e rocks,
blinded by the lightning and deafened by the thunder, in a
dense gloom. At first I looked upon this misadventure in a
very philosophical light, and compared this storm to those of
the tropics. But, however grand the spectacle of which I was
an observer might be, I began to grow impatient and almost
terrified when, after waiting so long, I saw the tempest re-
double its fury, instead of abating. A high wind was rocking
the tops of the trees with a mournful sound, and the bed of the
torrent I had followed was filled with muddy water, wliich kept
rising higher and higher, dashing over the rocks and mingling
its noise with that of the thunder and wind. I left my retreat,
determined to brave the rain, and get back to Quebec as quickly
as possible.

J was obliged to look for a place where I might wade
through the torrent, for, not having foreseen a storm, I had
had the imprudence to cross the ravine which separated me
from the former capital of Canada. I walked along the banks
for half an hour; but far from becoming smaller, as I had hoped,
the banks grew continually wider apart. Soaked to the skin,
I bitterly regretted leaving my shelter, towards which I
mechanically returned. I began to wish my friend Sumichrast
at Jericho, and the Loxia Enucleator still further, which, however,
did not dry a thread of my clothes. The rain continued ; and,
after another halt, I determined to climb the bank, to look for a
path and follow it, at the risk of its being the right one. But
climbing a perpendicular bank made slippery by the rain, and
covered with pine cones, was an undertaking as difiicult as a
dozen of Hercules' feats put together. I climbed, I slipped back,
I rolled over, I fell and covered myself with mud, before I
attained the object of my efforts. Then, obliged to sit down on
the ground to take breath, I innocently sheltered myself under a
pine tree, as though twenty drops of water more or less could
in any way change the state of my affairs. I again thought of

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 37

my friend Sumichrast, quietly sitting in his armchair, smoking
or studying at his ease, whilst I was here, wet to the skin
and half blinded, looking for a bird which perhaps did not
exist. I set out once more, and after an hour's wandering,
came upon a path which led me to a road where I saw the ruts
of wheels, so that I was at last getting back to civilized life.

I wore a hat which I had bought at New York, and which,
on the shopkeeper's word, I believed was of English felt. But this
very curious production of American industry turned out to be
simply made of grey cardboard. The rim of my hat, originally
turned up, had gradually fallen down under the prolonged
action of the rain until sufficiently softened, when it became
detached and fell round my neck in guise of a collarette.
I was thus left with a kind of softened grey cap, and in my
tumbles, not content with soiling my clothes with the yellow
mud, I had managed to daub my face all over with it. In this
condition, and armed with a gun, I must have looked less elegant
than wild, and I foresaw that my entry into Quebec would
not be exactly triumphal.

On reaching the road, I thought myself saved; but I quickly
fell into another perplexity. Must I turn to the right or the
left ? That was the question. To turn to the right or to the
left is a problem easy enough to solve when one knows where
one comes from; but when one comes unexpectedly upon an
unknown road, I defy the most skilful to make it out. After
demure reflection, calculating that I had crossed the ravine here,
followed the bank there, ascended it to the right and descended
it on the left., and that since my departure I had kept my back
towards the good town of Quebec, I resolutely took the road in
a direction which seemed to me to be the right one. The rain
had ceased ; but the sky was overclouded, and the sun which
might have served me as guide was nowhere visible. I had
walked for a long while, and was surprised at not meeting any
one. It was getting late, and I began to think uneasily that I
might be overtaken by night in the midst of this forest.
Suddenly I heard behind me the noise of wheels, and it fell
upon my ears as the most harmonious sound I had ever heard.

38 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

I stood on one side the road in order to hail the driver of the
vehicle which was coming along. My presence, perhaps on
account of the pitiful appearance I presented, did not seem to
alarm the stranger, who was enveloped in a white mackintosh.
He stopped his horse, and I saw the fresh face of a young
woman, with blue eyes and fair, curling hair, leaning towards
me.

" Am I on the right road to Quebec ? " I asked of the young
woman, who was looking at me with surprise.

" Yes," she replied ; " only you are going in the wrong
direction. Quebec is over there," added she, pointing with her
whip in a direction to which I was conscientiously turning my
back; a fact which does not say much for our instinct — or
intelligence, if you like it better. But our life is passed in
turning our backs on things we wish to reach ; and, what is
sadder still, we err on our path through the moral, as much as
through the physical, world.

I asked the young woman several questions, but, instead of
answering, she said, looking at me with her beautiful, large
blue eyes —

" Are you a Frenchman, then, sir ? "

" Yes," replied I piteously ; for I ill represented our country
for the time being.

" A Frenchman from Old France ?" added my questioner.

" A Frenchman from Old France," I replied smilingly.

" If I were not afraid of making my father uneasy, I would
willingly offer to drive you back to town, sir; for you look
tired."

I thanked my charitable friend, and again asked her to shqw
me the shortest way back to Quebec.

" You have only to walk straight before you," said she ;
" but if you are not pressed for time, you might come with me
to the farm, and I can give you some one to show you the way."

"I shall be very pleased to accept your offer," I eagerly
replied.

And shouldering my gun, I prepared to follow the cart.

*' Get up here," said the young woman, making a place for

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 39

me ; " we have three miles to go, and you could not keep up
with my horse."

I looked wonderingly at the handsome young woman who
thus gave me such a proof of confidence. What a diiBFerence
between the countries which we consider wild, and civilized
lands ! In Old France, as my companion called it, if I had been
met in a wood, with clothes covered with mud, a battered hat,
and a gun slung over my shoulder, by an individual belonging
to the fairer half of humanity, it is probable that that individual,
far from offering me a place by her side in her cart, would have
urged on her horse, and told her friends in the evening that,
being frightened on her journey by a ferocious-looking man, she
liad only escaped great danger by her self-possession, whilst
all the time she would be dying of fright.

I sat down near my companion with all the precaution
possible, for I did not want to soil her cloak with my muddy
clothes. She whipped on the horse, and we set off at a trot.

" Am I rude, sir, in asking you by what chance you found
yourself so far from Quebec in such dreadful weather ? "

" It was the fault of that rascal of a Loxia Enucleator,'^ I
exclaimed.

" A friend of yours, undoubtedly ? "

" No ; a bird, classed by Linnaeus, badly described by Buffon,
and which lives in Lapland and in this country."

And as my companion's eyes regarded me with a questioning
look, I related my departure from Quebec, and then the misad-
ventures of the day, which gained for me the pleasure of seeing
Home beautiful white teeth, and hearing such a laugh as only
twenty years old can give.

" Please excuse my gaiety over your misfortunes, sir ; from
th^ bottom of my heart I wish our sky had treated you more
kindly."

" Laugh, madam, as much as you like ; I know you are
charitable, and that is enough for me."

" If you will be kind enough, you will call me miss — Miss
Louise Martin."

We had just reached the foot of a hill, and the horse was

40 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

taking its own pace, when suddenly my companion half rose
from her seat, and appeared to examine carefully the top of the
hill we were near. She frowned slightly, and half closed her
eyes, like one in deep thought. I asked her a question, but sho
did not seem to hear me; her mind was evidently elsewhere.
I respected her silence; and, looking to the top of the hill,
thought I saw a human form sitting between two trees on tho
roadside. I seized my gun mechanically. Tho young girl
turned sharply round to me.

" There is some one up there," said I.

"Yes," replied she, and gave two little smacks with her
whip.

Aroused by the noise, the horse pricked up his ears and
mended his pace. Soon I was able to distinguish a tall young
man, dressed in a hunting-suit, with high gaiters. Ho got up
and came slowly along the road as though to bar our way. On
our approach he took off his fur cap, which, in spite of tho
season, he wore over his eyes, and I saw a handsome fellow, with
fair hair, an open brow, and regular features.

" Louise," said he, when we were quite near him, " I should
like to speak with you."

My companion's face grew serious, and the horse made a few
steps before sho replied. She heaved a deep sigh, drew tho
reins in, and the horse having stopped, she got lightly down.

" Good day, Louise," said the hunter, holding out his largo
hand.

" Good day, Peter," replied the young girl.

" How is your father ? "

" Better, thank you."

" Louise, I should like to speak with you."

" Will you take tho reins, sir," said the young girl to mo
after a moment's hesitation, " and be so kind as drive to tho top
of the hill?"

Then, without awaiting my reply, she took the hunter's^rm
and walked on with him.

Rather surprised at this scene, I picked up the reins and
slowly followed the two young people.

05
U
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X
H

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o

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X

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 41

CHAPTER II.

Miag Louise — Arrival at tlio Secret Valley — Grandfather Martin — A patri-
archal evening — "What is Mr. Peter ? — A mitjtako — An enfant terrible —
Another search for the Loxia.

The rain had quite ceased ; the sky gradually resumed its clear
deep azure ; drops of water were trembling on the fir-cones ; and
when the sunlight penetrated through a glade in the wood, one
would have said that the trees it fell upon were studded with
diamonds. The wayside banks, of a beautiful orange colour,
reminded mo of the ochre slopes in certain parts of Normandy.
Was it a freak of my imagination ? I do not know ; but the
trees, the bushes, the paths, the herbs growing by the roadside,
carried my thoughts back to Franco ; my misadventures of the
morning were forgotten, and I could hardly believe that the
broad ocean separated me from my native land.

From time to time, I looked towards the two young people ;
they were sjieaking in an undertone. The hunter was making-
energetic gesticulations, and seemed to be either justifying him-
self, or trying to persuade his companion, who, with her head
bent down, only answered him at long intervals. The young
girl had taken off her cloak, and I was better able to judge of
her appearance. 8he was tall, robust, but nevertheless grace-
ful, fcjhe wore a grey dress trimmed with blue, which, without
being of any particular fashion, suited her well. Her boots
were of chamois leather, embroidered with beads, and reminded
me of the mocassins which the Indians in this part of the
country wear. Her luxuriant golden hair was tied back with
a dark blue ribbon something like the largo bows with which
the Alsacians adorn themselves. Her walk was firm and self-
reliant : Miss Louise had an aristocratic look about her.

In short, the two young people formed a charming couple
which it was a pleasure to look at. My curiosity had been
aroused by this unforeseen meeting, but I noticed that they
treated each other with a familiarity which spoke of a long

42 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

acr)\ lintanceship ; I thought I saw before me two lovers trying
to make up a love-quarrel.

At the top of the hill Miss Louise stopped and held out her
hand to her companion, saying, •' Good-bye, Peter."

" No," replied the latter, eagerly taking her hand ; " not
good-bye."

" Very well, then ; but it depends entirely upon you."

The young man shook his head, and helped his companion
to take her place again in the covered cart ; then going back a
step to let us pass, he took off his cap and bowed politely to me.

A minute later the horse was trotting down a long slope.
Before me lay a pretty valley, at the bottom of which stood
some extensive buildings. Miss Louise, serious and absorbed,
maintained a strict silence, and J spoke not a word, for fear of
disturbing her thoughts. She turned her head quickly, nodded
to the hunter who was still standing on the top of the hill,
then, the road being sheltered by trees, she heaved a deep sigh,
slashed her whip, and said to me, pointing to the buildings —

" The Secret Valley — my father's house."

The Secret Valley ! This name had been admirably chosen.
The valley into which we were descending was enclosed on
all sides by high hills, and at present it was covered with
golden harvests. We passed by an old woman occupied with
chopping wood and making faggots; she wished us good even-
ing in French, and her accent, her black striped petticoat and
her cap, again reminded me of Normandy. I told my companion
my impression.

" You are in New France," replied she ; " and my family,
who have held this property for more than two hundred years,
as well as our servants, came originally from Rouen."

*' Have you ever been to France ? "

•* No. I was bom in the house you see down there, and I
have never been further away than Quebec."

" Were you brought up in Quebec ? "

•' I have been brought up in the Secret Valley, and I have
never slept imder any other roof than that to which I am
taking you. But why do you ask me these questions ? "

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 43

" Because you speak French so remarkably well."

" Thank you for the compliment," said the young girl,
smiling ; " but I beg you to remember that for me, as well as for
half the inhabitants of Canada, the French language is our
mother-tongue, and although we know English we only speak
it when obliged to do so."

" Nevertheless," I said, " all your countrymen do not express
themselves in the elegant way which I admire in you."

" I know how to read and write, sir," replied my fair com-
panion ; " the secret lies there, perhaps. You are not very
polite," added she. " You have seen Quebec, and yet you seem
to think we are but half civilized here."

I hastened to do justice to Quebec, whose English and
French colleges I had admired, and whose reputation for learn-
ing is incontestible. Nevertheless, the Secret Valley was not in
the least Quebec, so that I was somewhat justified in showing
my surprise on hearing a beautiful young woman, with educated
speech and ladylike manners, declare herself that she was only
a farmer's daughter.

" Is a farmer's position, then, in France considered as an
inferior station, or as a degrading occupation ? " asked the young
girl, looking at me.

" No/' replied I at once, " The culture of the land is every-
where honourable and honoured ; but, unfortunately, gentlemen-
farmers, as they are called here and in England, are very rarely
to be found with us. Our farmers are honest people ; but they
are often uncultivated, even boorish, and, beyond their business,
more ignorant than I dare confess."

We passed through a wide gateway. Two enormous mastiffs
chained to their kennels, began to struggle furiously. The cart
crossed a courtyard and stopped before the steps of an old house,
with windows irregularly placed here and there, such as our
forefathers, regardless of symmetry, were fond of building.

An old man, with a three-cornered hat, knee-breeches, and
knitted blue stockings, came towards me, leaning on a walking-
stick. One might have said he was an ancestor stepping down
out of an old picture ; he only wanted the curled wig, for he

44 MY H AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

woro tho old-fashioned shirt-front and frilling. Ho took off his
hat to mo : his head was still covered with curls, but as white
as snow ; I thc^jight I had never seen such a handsome, vener-
able-looking old^ian.

*' Welcome to my roof, sir," said he, holding out his hand to
me. " You must forgive my forgetting if you have ever been
to the Secret Valley before, for I do not remember your features
or your name."

I explained in a few words that, being drenched to the skin,
and having lost my way, I had met with Miss Louise, who had
kindly offered me a seat in her conveyance, and promised to let
some one show me tho way to Quebec.

" Quite right, Louise," cried the old gentleman. " But our
guest must not go away without resting and having some
refreshment. See to that, my child."

" Grandfather," said tho young girl, " the gentleman is a
Frenchman, from Old France."

" Heavens be praised ! Is it true ? " .

" It is true," I answered.

" Then, sir, you are doubly welcome. You are among friends,
countrymen, and brothers."

How was it that this simple, cordial welcome moved mo
almost to tears ? It was because I was a thousand leagues away
from that dear country, the name of which was enough to call
forth so much kindness. How precious and honourable my title
of Frenchman was to me when the old man warmly grasped my
hand and led me into his house! I had long known of the
sympathy the Canadians have for the land of their forefathers,
but never had I seen that sympathy exhibited in so touching a
manner.

Two hours later I had become the guest of the Secret Valley,
and was sitting at table between Mrs. Martin and the grand-
father, whilst a servant was despatched to Quebec to let my
friends know thpt I was still in tho land of the living.

Mr. Martin, the father of Louise, was forty-eight years old,
his wife forty. Miss Louise eighteen, her sister Victorine six-
teen, and her brothers Victor and J^mile fourteen and twelve.

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 45

As to tho grandfather and grandmother Martin, they rcpre-
eented between them almost a century and a half. The farm-
servants, about ten in number, sat round tho lower end of the
table; some of the grey-headed ones treated the masters and
children of tho house quite familiarly. The grandfather having
asked a blessing, every one sat down and partook of a largo ham
and cabbage, followed by a roast joint of mutton.

" Father," said liouiso rather suddenly, '* on my way back
from Quebec, as I was bringing our guest here, I met Peter."

" Did you speak to him,'Loui8e ? "

"Yes, I spoke to him," replied the young girl. And I
noticed she changed colour.

Silence ensued, and nothing was heard but the noise of
knives and forks.

" Very well," said the farmer all at once ; " we will talk
about that by-and-by."

Then turning to me, Mr. Martin entertained me with an
account of his crops, the work he had undertaken, and his plans
for improving his property.

I listened absently. Miss Louise's declaration seemed to
have cast a gloom over all present. Who was this Mr. Peter,
whose name was enough to disturb this good family? A head-
strong youth, a prodigal son, perhaps. But no ; I had noticed
Miss Louise did not treat him familiarly enough for that. I was
lost in vain conjectures.

The grandfather returned thanks and all ro8(3 from the table.
We had supped in an oblong room, furnished with one of those
immense chimney-pieces which one still meets with occasionally
in some parts of Normandy. The kitchen utensils made a
brilliant display on the walls, and great beams ran across the
ceiling. The farmer led me out of doors, and Miss Louise, after
having poured out some coffee, and placed the cups on a small
table, offered me a long slate pipe, a regular calumet, which I
was obliged to decline.

The clock had just struck eight ; the night was starry and
light. The moon, which was still invisible, was rising towards
the north, and casting her silvery light over the sides of the

46 MY RAMBLES P^ THE NEW WORLD.

hills in front of us. Through the still air came the sound of
lowing and bleating from the out-buildings, mine^led with the
cackling of a few hens late in going to roost. I questioned
my host, and he answered me very obligingly ; he was a serious,
well-instructed, and affable man. I learnt that he and his wife
had been their children's only instructors ; that six generations
of Martins lay in the little cemetery of the Secret Valley, after
having lived here as happy as human creatures could be, working,
fearing God, and making simplicity the root of their happiness.
Mr. Martin dreamt of no different future for his four children,
and he strongly hoped that they would never know any other
part of the universe save the place where they were bom.

Years have passed, and have sprinkled my head with grey
hairs, but they have detracted nothing from the pleasing
memory of the Secret Valley. I have only to shut my eyes to
hear grandfather Martin ask a blessing in the large room in
which I was first received, to see the serious features of his son,
the goodness beaming on the face of Mrs. Martin, the beautiful
eyes of Miss Louise, and the gay faces of her younger sister and
brothers. I see again the large sitting-room where my host led
me after we had finished our coffee, Mrs. Martin and her
daughters sewing by the light of two large lamps, the grand-
father reading, and his grandsons bending studiously over their
lessons for the next day. Oh ! happy, simple family, what
never-to-be-forgotten memories did I bring away after a week's
sojourn in your midst ! If happiness is not an idle dream, if it
exists anywhere on our globe, surely it is beyond the sea, between
the hills of the Secret Valley.

" Nine o'clock," said the grandfather suddenly, looking
at the clock ; then, turning to me, he added —

" Do you like music, sir ? "

" Very much indeed," I answered.

" You really mean it ? "

" I do indeed."

" You hear, Louise ? " resumed the old man. " This gentle-
man will make excuses for your performance."

Miss Louise sat down at the piano and played remarkably

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 47

well ; she was soon joined by lier sister, and by ^rnile and Victor,
one provided with a violin, the other with a flute, and all
executed their parts with great exactness. After this impro-
vised concert, Mr. Martin led me to the bedroom prepared for
me, and I soon fell asleep, thinking how much chance has to do
with our lives.

My first thought on awaking was of the Loxia Enucleator, for
the birds were singing under my windows, which looked out on
to a beautiful garden. Mr. Martin, his father, and Miss Louise
were walking along an avenue ; the grandfather was holding
the young girl's hand. It was evidently a question on the
subject of Mr. Peter.

As soon as I was dressed, I went down to wish my guests
good morning; when I reached the garden, the father was
saying to his daughter —

"You well know, my child, that your happiness is my
only care."

" How can I doubt that, father?" replied Miss Louise.

" Ah, well, Louise, you must try to forget, and we will help
you."

Miss Louise gently shook her head, as much as to say, " It
is impossible." Then, bowing to me, she went away.

Directly they saw me, Mr. Martin and his son came up and
warmly shook hands.

" Poor Louise ! " said the grandfather, who was looking after
his grandchild ; " she is crying."

" Father," said Mr. Martin, " do you, then, side with the
women against me ? "

" Yes, when I see Louise crying."

" We are here to comfort her now ; later on, when we shall
be no longer alive, whom will she lean upon ? "

I was about to walk on.

*' Stpy, sir," said the grandfather to me ; " there is no secret.
We are very much troubled just now about our granddaughter.
She loves her second cousin, and there is an obstacle between
them."

" Is Mr. Peter a bad character, then ? " I risked asking.

48 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLT).

" No, no," replied Mr. Martin, eagerly ; " Peter is the best
lad in the world, and I should be glad to call him my son.
Louise would have been his wife a year ago, if ... . But
pardon, sir, our family affairs can have no interest for you."

Not knowing precisely whether my host's reticence was in
reality only a polite way of changing the conversation, I dared
not reply that, on the contrary, I was much interested in Miss
Louise and her lover, and that I wanted very much to know
the obstacle that prevented their union.

Mr. Martin led me towards the farm, and I was obliged to
submit to what I call the landlord's visit, that is to say, going
round all the outbuildings, cellars, and granaries. These forced
visits are often wearying ; this time they were very useful to
me, for I learnt more than one particularity of the climate and
productions of Canada.

It was twelve o'clock when a bell called us to luncheon. I
saw that Miss Louise busied herself with her sister and mother
in household affairs, whilst the grandfather was tutor to the
boys. During the meal the Loxia Enudeator was the topic of
conversation. I had become reconciled to it again, as it had
gained me an invitation to spend a few days at the farm.
Neither of my hosts remembered meeting with a bird of crim-
son plumage in their walks or hunting excursions ; but the hills
surrounding the Secret Valley were covered with pine trees ;
thus I could explore them at leisure, sure of not getting lost
again, as it would have been difficult to lose sight of the farm.

The history of their native land was familiar to my hosts,
and at the same time they were well acquainted with that c^
their mother country. When they discovered that the names
and the works of missionaries who had been the firs* to explore
North America, and Canada in particular, were not unknown to
me, they redoubled their attentions. They complained of being
ill-known in France, and of having no return of affection.

" You are mistaken," I repeated, continually. " A Canadian
is no stranger in France."

The grandfather Martin smiled and shook his head. He
had seen, said he, many Frenchmen come to Canada, and not

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 49

one of them knew even the names of Cartier or Montcalm. I
defended my countrymen as well as I could, whilst inwardly
allowing that my host was right, and that we in France are
too indifferent to our past glories. The attachment manifested
to France by this good family made me commit a singular
error.

"It would be a happy day," cried I, suddenly, "which
should renew the bonds of the past, and make you Frenchmen."

" God preserve us from such misfortune ! " exclaimed grand-
father and son together. " We are Canadians first of all, and
secondly, we are the subjects of the Queen of England ; and
we have no more wish to become Frenchmen than Americans,
although our neighbours think the contrary."

I was somewhat confused.

" I thought I understood," I resumed, in an embarrassed
tone, " that you regretted the loss of your former nationality."

" We are sons of Frenchmen, sir, and we respect the past,"
said the grandfather to me ; " but on no account do we wish
to become the subjects of your kings, or the citizens of your
republic, for we possess what you are wanting in, constancy.
Your cavilling administration of routine, would soon transform
the liberty we enjoy into servitude. We love France and
French people; nevertheless, as long as we are allowed to
remain purely and simply Canadians, we shall remain English
by right, by politics, by love of justice, and by true liberty."

I bit my lips. I have since found among all Canadians
the same sentiments as those expressed by the grandfather
Martin. If the Canadians love France, our political inconstancy
astonishes them, and they say that we understand nothing
whatever of liberty.

The afternoon was spent in visiting my host's land. He was
very proud of his crops of lucern-grass and wheat. There
was the same patriarchal gathering in the evening. At my
request Miss Louise took her seat at the piano. She had hardly
struck a few notes when one of her brothers cried —

" Oh ! that is Peter's song."

At this involuntary exclamation, the musician covered her

50 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

face with her hands, and the young culprit sprang to her side,
throwing his arms around her neck.

" Oh, Louise ! " cried he, " did I make you cry ? "

Miss Louise got up and kissed the boy, whilst Miss Victorine
at once took her place; and, drying her eyes, the elder sister
quietly sat down near her mother. This scene had touched
every one, me particularly; little Victorine had shown her
good sense by taking possession of the piano, for all were thus
able to follow their own thoughts. For my part I should have
much liked to know what it was that prevented Louise's marriage
with the handsome Peter, and to have been able to restore peace
in the Secret Valley.

Towards ten o'clock I took leave of this interesting family,
for I was going to begin my search again for the famous Loxia
among the pine-woods early the next morning. My host wanted
me to take a servant, but I declined this kind offer ; and the
grandfather then proposed that his grandsons should be my
guides, and their lessons for that day be dispensed with. At
these words the two boys looked up eagerly ; their eyes fastened
on my lips as though trying to guess what the reply would be.
I accepted ; they jumped up with delight, and came and squeezed
my hands.

My little companions undertook to awake me, and at break
of day they knocked at my door. I found Miss Louise in the
large sitting-room, filling our game-bags with provisions, for
we were going to have our luncheon in the woods.

" You have been very kind to me," said I to the young girl,
just as we were starting ; " can I be of any use to you ? "

" No, sir," replied she ; " but I am very much obliged to you
all the same."

She shook hands with me, and I followed her young brothers,
who were impatient to be off.

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 51

CHAPTER III.

A panorama — An unexpected meeting — Luncheon in the woods— Pleading
in Miss Louise's favour— Return to the farm — Pleading in Peter's
favour—" All's well that ends well " — The Loxia.

The morning foretold splendid weather ; a white mist hid the
tops of the hills, but the sun soon dispersed this light veil. My
two guides led me across a corn-field ; then, following them, I
climbed a steep path leading into the wo )d8.

By the deliberate way in which my young friends walked,
and handled their guns, I soon recognized experienced huntsmen.
In fact, they told me that for a long while hunting had been
their favourite pastime ; and their master in this art dear to all
Canadians, had been their second cousin Peter, whose skill was
quite proverbial in the country.

On our way, my companions asked me many questions about
Paris, London, and New York, three cities which they dreamt of
visiting. They were lively, gay, and talkative, and yet more
thoughtful than boys of the same age with us. We reached a
narrow dale, lost between two hills, and my guides opened the
hunt by bringing down a black squirrel.

We agreed on a signal-call, and each took a different direc-
tion. I was to climb the slope in front of me, whilst the two
brothers took the road to the right and to the left, walking in a
direction so as to meet me on the top of the hill. We were sur-
rounded by pine trees of different species, among which I recog-
nised the black pine, the wood of which is very valuable in
ship-building; the Canadian pine, or white spinet; then the
odoriferous pine, which furnishes commerce with a thick,
transparent turpentine, of a very agreeable odour.

Throe successive reports of fire-arms repeated by the echo
told me that my companions were having good sport. As for
myself, in spite of the steep slope I was ascending, I walked on,
looking about everywhere, trying to get a glimpse of the red
plumage of the Loxia among the dark or silvery foliage of the

62 M7 a AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

pine trees. I killed a fine woodpecker, then a cross-bill, and I
just missed bringing down a weasel of no ordinary size.

Arrived at the top of the hill, I found myself on a platform
strewn with blocks of sandstone, and elevated enough to allow
of my overlooking the ravine we had crossed, the Secret Valley,
and its buildings. The sun was flooding the lovely valley with
light, and the emerald-green colour of the fruit trees stood out
in pleasing contrast with the dark foliage of the pines. I had
reached the place of rendezvous, but as yet heard no sound of the
approach of my companions. I sat down under an oak tree,
which seemed to have sprung up there quite by chance; its
foliage looked singular among the uniform vegetation with which
it was surrounded.

After waiting half an hour, I entered the wood again in
another direction. From this side, the slope which I had
climbed was almost perpendicular. I leant over this precipice,
and was startled at seeing Miss Louise's lover, sitting on a rock
about ten feet below me, with his gun lying at his feet.

The young man wore the hunting-suit in which I had seen
him the first time we met ; he was looking towards the Secret
Valley, which was plainly visible from the place he occupied.
He seemed so wrapped up in his thoughts that he did not appear
to hear the sound of my footsteps. I could not see his face, but
from his movements I guessed that he was looking after some
one. He suddenly turned his head to the left, then listening for a
moment, he sprang to his feet and took up his gun. I thought of
my young companions, one of whom was to come out from that
side, and I was going to warn the hunter, when Victor appeared.

" Peter ! Peter ! " cried the boy in a gleeful voice.

And at the risk of breaking his neck. Master Victor rushed
down the hill and fell into his cousin's arms.

At the same moment 6mile appeared further down ; at his
brother's call, the lad looked up, and walking quickly, soon joined
the hunter.

" Peter ! Peter ! " cried the two boys, enthusiastically ; and
they tried who could make the most of their cousin, who warmly
returned their caresses.

A CANADIAN FAMILY. f

"How are they all at the Secret Valley?" asked Mr. Pater at
length.

" Very well," replied Victor ; " father has had low fever, but
he is better now."

"And Victorine?"

" Sather more of a tease than when you saw her last year."

"And Louise?"

" Just the same, Peter ; only she does not laugh much, and
she looks very sad sometimes."

" And she has been like that ever since you went away,"
added 6mile.

Mr. Peter passed his hand through his hair several times,
and was silent for a moment.

" How is it you are here ? " resumed he ; "I know it is not
your holiday."

" We are with a gentleman, a Frenchman, who lost himself
in the woods. Louise met him and brought him to our house,"
said Victor.

" The day that she met you," added Emile.

"By-the-by," resumed the elder brother, "where is our
friend ? He ought to be here."

" Was it you, then, that fired ? " asked Mr. Peter.

" Yes. We have each killed a rabbit, and a bird for the
gentleman besides. We are looking for a bird with crimson
feathers."

" Ah ! well, then, lads, you must be quick and find your
guest."

" Leave you so soon for that ? Oh no ! Let Emile go and
look for the gentleman."

"Go yourself," replied Emile, unceremoniously; "you are
the eldest. Is it true, Peter," added the boy, seizing his cousin's
hand, " that you are never coming again to the Secret Valley,
and that you do not care for us any more ? "

Instead of replying, the hunter took both boys in hie arms
and pressed them to his heart.

" Ah ! my dear lads ! How could you think so ! " cried he at
last.

MY Ji AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

Victor, looking up at this moment, saw mo, and told his com-
panions. Mr. Peter bowed, and following his cousin, who set out
at once to meet me, was soon at my side.

He was indeed a handsome, tall young man, with fair hair
and beard, and finely modelled features. He talked well, although
with a certain honest bluntness. An hour later we were taking
our luncheon side by side, and I had described the Loxia to him
at least three times. After our luncheon he ofiered me a cigar,
and took me to the rock where I had seen him sitting in a deep
reverie ; ho was evidently intent on contemplating the Secret
Valley.

l^mile and Victor were too restless to sit still long, so they
went on with their sport, and left their cousin and myself to
finish our cigars and have a little chat together.

" Really, sir," said I to my companion, " if I thought you
would not be annoyed, I should ask you what obstacle it is that
keeps you from the Martins and separates you from Miss Louise."

" Separates me from Louise ! " cried the huntsman.

I thought he was about to continue ; but he covered his face
with his hands, and was silent.

" I beg pardon for my inconsiderateness," I resumed, after a
few moments ; " but I hope you will believe it was not mere
curiofdty which prompted me to speak."

" God forbid, sir," replied he at l.^st, " that I should be
offended with your question. I love I ./uise, and she loves me,
as you know. I have been brought 'ip in Quebec, and have
studied there in the best colleges. I have an independent
fortune, and I should like to be one of those who rule, rather
than of those who are ruled ; in a word I want to live in town,
and take part in political affairs. My uncle and great-unole are
happy at the Secret Valley, and they will not admit that one
may be happy elsewhere."

" Does Mr. Martin wish his son-in-law to be a farmer ? "

" Just so ; but I have other dreams in my head, which he
cannot understand."

" Are you ambitious?"

" Why should I conceal it from myself? Yes, I am am-
bitious, especially for Louise's sake."

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 55

" Does she approve of your plans ? "

" No ; she sides with my uncle against me."

Finally, beneath all the reserve which modesty imposed on
my companion, I ended by discovering that he had literary
tastes ; that he dreamt of a brilliant life in society for himself
and his wife. It was an ambition which I found it difficult to
blame. Nevertheless, was not Mr. Martin right when ho
required his nephew to remain in the Secret Valley, and not
abandon the peaceful home where so many Martins had lived
happily ? Mr. Peter was cherishing many vain illusions. I did
not hesitate to try and show him the other side of political and
literary life, to which many think themselves called, but so few
are in reality chosen.

" If I did not succeed," replied the young man, " I should
come back to the Secret Valley."

" Yes, disgusted, and embittered ; having contracted habits
which would make retirement wearisome," cried I. " Besides,
you will always fancy yourself on the eve of success, and your
return will continually be put off from day to day. But you
might succeed, and remember then the words of Madame do
Stat'l : ' Glory and happiness are not synonymous ; the first is
often nothing but the shroud of the second.' "

The sympathy I felt for Miss Louise made me eloquent, and
I talked for a long while with Mr. Peter, to whom I must do
the justice to say that he listened to me attentively, and dis-
cussed each of my arguments without impatience. The young
man was convinced that, if Louise chose, she could quickly
dispel her father's and grandfather's objections; but she was
determined never to leave the Secret Valley.

" We will live here together," she had said firmly, to her
lover, '* or we will die apart."

And this dissension had lasted for a year.

Ah ! what a wise young woman was Miss Louise ! She
possessed all the grace and all the accomplishments which
would have made her shine in the society where her betrothed
fondly dreamed of taking her; nevertheless, she was resolute
in her wish to live in the obscure corner where she had been

56 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

born. How diiBferently people think in France, whore the
farmer's daughter has only one desire, to leave as quickly as
possible the fields which have given her health and riches,
to pine away in a lawyer's study, or a judge's cabinet, as
though .... Alas, what is the use of my moralizing ?

I spent the day hunting with Mr. Peter, for whom I formed
a sincere friendship ; such excellent qualities did I recogniz-e
in him. As night came on, he walked back with me and my
young companions as far as the entrance to the valley.

The sun was going down, a yellow mist enveloped the
buildings of the Secret Valley, and the neighing of horses,
the lowing of cows, the bleating of sheep, and all those sounds
so harmonious when heard in the distance at sunset, reached us
where we stood.

" There is happiness," said I, pointing towards the farm
and turning round to my guide ; " try and convince yourself
of that."

The young man made no answer.

" There beats a brave heart, which suffers through you,"
I resumed ; " think of that."

Mr. Peter sighed; then he walked off rapidly, without
shaking hands with me, or kissing his cousins ; who, when they
had recovered from the surprise which this abrupt departure
caused them, cried out both together —

" Come and see us, Peter ! "

A voice came from the depths of the wood, out none of us
could make out what it said.

It was night when we returned to the farm. We had
captured four rabbits, three squirrels, and a dozen birds ; but,
alas ! the famous Loxia Enucleator was not among them.

The two following days I again hunted in the woods of the
Secret Valley. It was not only the Loxia I was looking for, but
Peter Martin, with whom I should like to have had another
talk. I had not mentioned my meeting to any of the inhabit-
ants of the farm, not wishing to appear to interfere with affairs
which in reality did not concern me. However, the evening
before my departure, as I found myself alone with Miss Louise,

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 57

who was arranging a bouquet of flowers, I vontureJ to say
rather abruptly —

" I have seen Mr. Peter ; did you know ? "

"Yes," replied she; "I heard my brothers tell about your
meeting with our cousin."

" Is it true, then, that you refuse to live in town ? "

" I firmly believe, sir, that our happiness will bo more
certain here, in this dear old place. Peter is fond of books, and
we have a library ; what can prevent him from reading, or even
writing? If he is capable of writing a book, will his work
be any the worse for being composed in the Secret Valley ? "

" But if he does not like farming ? "

"He does like it, sir, as one likes things one has been
accustomed to from childhood. Besides, what is he wanted to
do ? To become master here ; anu that is no very poor position.
For myself, I am a farmer's daughter, and I do not care to be
anything difieront. Good Heavens ! what should I do in the
large drawing-rooms at Quebec. I should not dare to speak
or move. I am giving you my own particular reasons, as
well as those of my father and grandfather, and you will
understand that I do well in not yielding to Peter's wishes."

" You want him to make a sacrifice for you, and not you
for him," I resumed.

The young girl looked at me with her beautiful eyes, which
gradually filled with tears.

"I assure you, sir," said she to me in a trembling voice,
" in all this I think more of Peter's happiness than of my own."

I was about to reply, to assure my charming hostess that
I did not in the least doubt either her self-devotion or her afiec-
tion ; but the grt^ndfather coming in cut short our conversation.
Miss Louise went away, and I had no opportunity of again
speaking to her in private.

In the evening I looked for the last time upon this good
family, sitting around two lamps, the antiquity of which proved
that they had lighted several generations of Martins. As usual.
Miss Louise sat down at the piano, and I went up to her to
justify myself and explain my words of the morning. At their

58 MY HAM DIES IN THE NEW WOULD.

grandfather's request Emilo and Victor took up, the one his flute,
the other his violin, when the dogs began to bark outside. The
noise did not last long, and I listened for an hour to Canadian
airs played by the young artists at my request. After this Miss
Louise poured out tea.

" Are you angry with me?" I asked her in a low tone, when
she came up to give me a cup."

" No," said she ; " I only think that you judge me ill."

1 was protesting against this insinuation, when suddenly
the sitting-room door opened, and what was my surprise to see
my hunting companion, Mr. Peter Martin, on the threshold !

The young man held his seal-skin cap in his hand ; he came
towards Mr. Martin, who had suddenly risen from his seat.

" Uncle," said he, in a voice trembling with emotion, " is
there still room at the farm for me ? "

" You are under the roof of your father's friend, in the house
of relations ; it is your home, Peter," replied Mr. Martin. " But
have you come simply to ask hospitality ? "

" No ; I am come to reclaim my place by your fireside, and
my title ot son."

Mr. Martin could not answer ; he took his nephew in his
arms, and laid his head for a moment on the young man's
shoulder. The grandfather wept, and so did Mrs. Martin. I
felt very much inclined to follow their example. As for Miss
Louise, she was sobbing violently.

"Peter," said Mr. JMartin at last, "we shall have ten work-
men to-morrow in the fields, and there are some new ones
among them whom I recommend you to keep an eye on. Louise,
my child, ofier Peter some tea."

" Let her kiss him," cried the grandfather. And Miss Louise
gave Peter such a prolonged kiss that I do not know when it
would have ended, had not Victor and ^mile put up their faces
for their turn. Oh, that happy evening, and what radiant faces
I looked upon that night !

I was discreetly taking part in the family's joy, when Mr.
Peter came up to me.

" You were eloquent, sir," said he, holding out his hand to

A CANADIAN FAMILY. 59

me, " and you have made me liappy a few months sooner than
I should have been ; for it would any way have ended in this,"
added he, turning to Louise, who blushed up to her eyes, as
Victorine roguishly remarked.

I warmly pressed the hand held out to me ; and hardly had
I released my hold, when Mr. Peter dived into his coat-pocket
and brought out a charming little bird, a real Loxia Enucleator,
which he very politely offered me.

" It is a rare bird," said he to me, " for I have been looking
for it ever since I left you. It was the cause of my delay. You
had convinced me, and I should have followed you at once, had
I not determined to offer you this present."

I hardly know whether I acted loyally ; but I will confess
my deed as an act of penitence. I never gave my friend Sumi-
chrast the beautiful little bird I had come so far to look for. I
have kept it in my own collection, in remembrance of Mr. Peter
and Miss Lc>uise.

About two years ago, on returning to my house, I was told
that a young man had been waiting to see mo for about an hour;
he had not given his name. When I entered my study, the
stranger, who was sitting near tlie fireplace, got up quickly,
made a few ste|)K towards me, lo4jking at me with uppareut
burprise.

*' Do you not recognize me ? " he anked at lajit.

**Ko," I replied. NevertlielcHH, your featureu remind m©

....

**Jh* you ever think, from time to time, of ftkt SmmI
Vttlhy?'*

*Th« Secret V»lUry !** I eri«d. -^YmmmmMmHin-tadU,

**}iu, air,** rej^kd tbe ytmnf; man, muI tiia fmm bMMMltiMiMli
** my pw»r IfrutUi-r i» «ltmt\. 1 tint Victor.**

I t<M#k kmAh htn \mutU lii w»mm, amA h4 Mm WIr i» 'bia mmi.
•* I ImHIv 4m« Mk mmf mtm imrnHmnr iim<I i to Im».

** flftini fmm wmmamd * loac mmm im mm% lll». Tmt

60 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

" He went before my brother and mother ; but my father is
living. It was he, Peter, and Louise who told me to remember
them to you when I was starting for Europe. I have a niece,"
added the young man ; " she is in some way your god-daughter,
for she is called Lucienne, and here is her portrait."

Victor held out to me a photograph, and for a moment I
seemed to see Miss Louifie again, as I saw her on the road from
Quebec. May God continue to bless her !

NIAGAEA IN WINTER.

■o»

CHAPTER I.

The coasts of Canada — Sir John Burton — Miss Mary's cloak— Halifax — A
sledge drive — A restaurant in a cellar — An oyster-fight — American liberty
— Sir John again.

On the 10th of February, 1863, eleven days after leaving Liver-
pool, the Scotia, a fine steamer of the Cunard line, cautiously
steered into the Halifax harbour. The passage had been very
rough, and we had twice almost disappeared beneath the green
waves which wash the coast of Canada. The state of the sea
for the last five days had prevente<l us from going on deck ;
but, in spite of the waves, the snow, and the ice, we were obliged
io leave the heated saloon, from time to time, to get a breath of
fretih air outside ; it nevertheletw Te({nhetl a gfxjd quarter of
an hour's deliberiitton before taking this decision, eiijNxrially on
my part.

We were abf>ut fifteen paMieng(?ni on board, among whom
an EngliNhman, and a young Amf^rirtan lady, betweim
tmd eightf^m, Him Mary, the daughter nf « dtjcUrr
•I CiaaiMWti. All lay otiier liiillow-irav«ll«rs were fm ihf mnat
pari faftAfliafi*, whit kmm from gxficrt— <w th*i iiirl— no/ of
thm uliwamtm, umi witrm w**!! proTidadl with fnr rkdhing. Ttrii;
&mmtttmmA Ut Uv« in tke trapMaa, I hail tAwmmi ha^pm t» Mth
\i^wm $11 ^m OK it— at «f (v4d. mai htA ncglailai pwm<ftiif
mjfmkf vriMi a im-Mm niaaii^ aiMl a fmt vi mii6r|Po«<f hutAm
UmA wttfc Ibr, «4til whiafc mmmtimm I mm m

62 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

England, just as I was a representative of Old France, was
walking from port to starboard, comfortably wrapped up in
his furs, I bravely strode from stem to stern in an overcoat, a
hat, and shoes. My self-pride forced me to seem insensible to
the cruel, biting north wind ; but I charitably warn ray readers
that an overcoat, excellent for the season in London or Paris, is
a very poor protection from cold on the coasts of Canada, between
the months of October and April.

Whilst trying to disguise my feelings, especially when the
son of Albion was on deck, I rhivered from morning to night,
and mentally anathematized my want of forethought.

" Go and put on your fur cloak and your high boots," they
would say to me.

" It is not cold enough," I replied, trying to force a smile
from my frozen lips.

They looked at me with surprise, and I got close up against
the steamer's funnel to try and get a little warmth ; an action
which at once belied my words.

At last I was obliged to confess that I had neither fur coat
nor high boots, and that I had foolishly relied on the heat of
the sun, which generally baked my shoulders in February.
Touched with pity, a Canadian, more than six feet high, on the
strength of being my countryman — he was, he said, from New
France — lent me a pair of gigantic XmhAh, which reached u[) to
my waist. I Ixiught an almost new fur csip from a sailor ; and
MisH Marj' so kindly offered me an of)era cloak, lined w.th fur,
that 1 waji oVilige*! to accept it. My e«>stumo, although M'arm,
wa«, it ap[>eare<l, rather grotew|nc; for each time I went on de«.k
I wan haile<l with gen<?ral l>urHt« of hilarity. I litugh<*d myuelf
m» ln-artily an any one, excipt when tlie KngliMhnmn wa* there.
Tlii« jMtt»r Englinhiiian ha«l «iieh a dii***gn . al»l«' way <ti Ltii^hin^.
ewptM'ially when he warn talking with Him Hiiry, tW he tjiiiw
MUioyetl me.

Mum Mjiry. wb<> mtm well-^m^teii »ii<l eievvr with<jHiit
■ fptp i ri i ig to km m»^ WM mimmmg from v'mtim^ Kngi— d. Wmrnm*

vlMf9MMI]F« ntmy, MMI 0fMMI« MNr WW ■MBW fffUttttUm HMMI |MRitl>JI i

lilt witk • mmjm §mei! tmi gmti iHnfW mm Urn §m^ iftMiJitMi,

NIAGARA IN WINTER. 63

and the only ones which do not fade. My cap especially amused
the young lady ; however, she made up for her teasing by
choosing me almost always as her partner. Her father, the
doctor, took little notice of her. The day after leaving Liverpool
he had begun a whist-party, which was only interrupted by
meals, and was to last till we reached Boston.

Miss Mary was a true American woman, and did just as she
liked. She would be on deck all day, '. aiking from one end of
the ship to the other, whilst every one made way for her with a
respectful politeness which removed all idea of gallantry.

How is it that in France we are not well-bred enough for
our customs to permit of this free confidence ? Why do we
continually forget that we have brothers and sisters ? I am no
admirer of Americans ; they are rough, ill-bred, and their
brusqueness is proverbial ; but their respect for women, which is
perhaps carried even further than in England, makes me envy
this quality for my countrymen. A yonng girl in America may
travel from one end to the other of her vast country without
having to fear the insolent looks or the vulgar compliments
wltieh are so common among French people. We pride oui
selves on our politeness and civilization, and yet our country is
about the only one where a woman cannot travel alone.

B!it let us return to Halifax. As we approached Newfound-
land, tlie temjMjstuous sea, with the enormous blocks of ice dabb-
ing against the hull of the Scotia, had gradually Hulwiided into
calm waves, over which a light mist seemed to float. In iiowi
of UM was an indente<l (^>aNt covered with hhow. We entere<i a
wide (hannel, and tlu-n an inuntiis*' bay, (Sipablu of holding
tii(»re tliau a thotMand vchm.Ih, Minidtiily o|Mined Ix-foru our
iMtoiiii«hid «'y«'».

1 Mtuud £ur a Ion); while ioMt in thooght. Thi« Und, in appear-
antx? wn lMirr«ii« bad omx; l>«long«d t4) FrmMX, Tbia niafj^itiocnt
\mTUtiiT, one of thm largf«t in th«i world, wlwnf ftv« or %%% Irriga
hiAmi with fKial. and as HMoy liabing-»iita<-kii, wero ouw 1;^ log at
atH'lHir. IumI iintg mm tba vrittltt iag. thtm ^m wafAamX aJBiidaiH
Iff fnmm, waring from file 9^m\tmJk%u^ Uwi. (Iirt»trfa i il i pad

64 MT BAMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD,

Francis Cartier, and which serves as a kind of outlet to those
inland seas, called the Lakes Superior, Huron, Michigan, Iroquois,
Erie, Ontario ; these last two are, as is well known, united by
the celebrated Niagara.

Beyond these coasts rise Quebec and Montreal Above the
Gulf of Fundy, and the state of Maine, stretches an extensive
country, wrested from France, in spite of the military talents of
Montcalm, and the heroic courage of the handful of soldiers he
had accustomed to victory.

" Well, Mr. Parisian," said a clear young voice, interrupting
my reflections, " are you not thinking of going on shore ? "

" Most certainly, miss ; have you any commission for me ? "

" I am going to propose that you take me with you. My
father does not care to expose himself to this north wind, which
at present is giving your nose a beautiful bluish hue ; but I
want to pay a visit to the daughter of the judge of Halifax, who
is a friend of mine."

By way of reply, I oflfered my arm to the young girl, and
passed triumphantly before Sir John Burton, who was obliged to
bow to me. He was newly shaven and splendidly dressed, and
his appearance, although somewhat stiff, was not wanting in
elegance. I had put aside my mantle and high boots for this
visit to the capital of Nova Scotia ; nevertheless, Sir John was
better dressed than myself; I could not deny the fact, and I
was doubly obliged to Miss Mary for having chosen rao as her
escort.

Halifax in fine weather is the seat of an important
commerce, and nothing can then equal the activity whii-h fills
its triHtkod «treet» with pe<ipl« and noim. In winter th«
t'omiuunitrtitionti with the interior of th« nmntry an- often
HUt^iMiitli'd, thti prin<i{)a] inhabitantii eini)<rut«-, and th«' town if
in lioiue riK'iiMiirM dei«ert4Ml. Thi^ Nnow U'coiiiiN in .i|i«Ml up
nroniiil tin* di n rti^*! hmimm, and |ir> vcTitM ai) m'**'im, iit H]>it4! ijf
ihtf ii) i;.>ii! ut llufir •t4ii|Mi, whii ii Utnk Ml tiuiMgli thi>y wem
|M«r('hr'i '>u MtiiUi. VtMomititf i\w m\vu%^ uf li ^'^um^'mu, f wrtil
:n mmr> h <d n i»l«^f> tiw my <«ae{iiiiiiiitt w^mM m v. r Unvt^ \»<»m

NIAGABA IN WINTER. 65

At last, with a young lad to drive us, we are on our way to
the judge's ho"se. The black horse drawing our equipage is a
magnificent animal ; he gaily shakes the bells on his collar, and
trots along with a firm step over the hardened snow. The
sledge goe^ up and down, and from side to side. I cannot see
the ground, but have an idea that the streets of Halifax are
not very level. Almost all the houses have a gloomy aspect ;
nevertheless, here and there a long column of black smoke issues
from a roof towards the grey sky. My companion joins with
the driver in urging on the steaming horse. From time to time
we meet a bundle of furs, which stops to see us go by, but
there is no possibility of saying to which sex it belongs. We
cross an extensive white plain, dotted here and there with villas
b.'iilt of wood, all hermetically closed ; their inhabitants are
probably frozen, for nowhere is there a living being visible, nor
a sound of life to be heard. At last the sledge stops before the
door of a large house, with a flight of twelve steps, at present
buried under snow. The judge has left for Quebec or Montreal,
so we have had our drive for nothing.

Miss Mary is highly amused, and orders our driver to take us
back to Halifax by the longest road, if there is one. The young
Canadian 8n)ile.s, he whii)8 his horse, and we are once more
gliding over a spotless sheet of snow, whilst large flakes fall
around uh and obncure our view. From the way that five or six
bundU^H of furs look at us as we ]iaMH them, anil then raine thfir
liands to the sky, \ am Oinviiut'd that our driver in taking ua
ahing an tiiiMifi' road. We are going like the wiml. w** hardly
know wlu-n*. for the hnow fallM thickly, .hint a* i an« wrapping
myiMilf u[) ill thi- I'urN nm utlj um 1 can, w«- t**m'\\ HalifaK, xnd our
horiM' nUt\m in front of m bjuw; around whitJi l\m MiwiW in {iil«^l
likt' it riini|>ttrt.

W\m Mary juiia|t« out. atnl J follow her h^wmm tiro «^ki
4| iMk Wi* n .« i> 4 «l«ii>r. atwi th«-ti IIihI otinM*iv*« in iwi^af »
■iliniili ttgili»4 hy gnu. which wo ihawiBif f^Miifi^ \hf*m^

*4mm dfea^ m^ HtMtrtb , ^i Wm Wmf 4mm wmH mmm to

66 31 Y a AMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

notice it. She has given her name to the servant, for she knows
the hotel-keeper's daughter, with whom she is invited to dine,
whilst I am asked to go into the dining-room.

Entering the underground room called by that name, I find
most of the passengers of the Scotia, drinking, talking, and
smoking, and all are anxious to welcome me. I am called from
one table to another, and obliged to taste the national drinks
which I have heard praised so much during the voyage, but
which I think detestable. I am at an hotel ; dinner is to be at
one o'clock. Meanwhile, I am told of the excellence of the
Canadian oysters; I cannot say how many dozen of which are
ordered in my honour.

" No one can flatter himself he has really eaten oysters until
he has tasted ours," said my fellow-traveller who had lent me
the boots ; " you will see."

I did indeed see I The palate and stomach want a great
deal of training to taste and digest the infinite variety of dishes
which man has invented; my education in this respect was
almost perfect, thanks especially to my sojourn among Indian
triljes. How many pages it would take to enumerate the
frightful mixtures under the name of national dishes with which
I have been regaled Ixjth among savagCB and civilized j>eop]e!
Oh, what trials my palate hoH l)een subjected to! — and what
stomucli can }>e iM-tter inured to thi8 sort of thing tliau mine?
I thu8 disappoint my friendH, who pri<k' themw-lvtiH on their
ren'herrh/ diunerH. 1 likt; ev«Tythiiig, which provcM, they nay,
that I lik«' Tuitliing. The inAti in, 1 have Ix'tn <)blige<l to ac-
ciwtom my»«elf to eat with luy eye« shiit: but when I think of
it, how foi»liMh man Im with rt'ii^ari} Ui hiit f<MMl !

At diitiKT, who Mhoiiid nit o|ifMiiiit< \ui \>n\ Sir John, who
ImkI Mpmng all of » Mkiddin f'rorn I know not wlnrrc. A w«iu*r
Ittepi UN \utih «if;» p p!>it4'H fill) >»f c'lt-Ar, gliH'V watiT. lu whic^h
IkmA Utile blftr'k )ih))h. <>» eithir nuU- of um ai^ pih« «>f miu\-
widlM. wmim witii \>rmu l»rf^i mh\ mmi<l \mU» I'iM'V

|tli«id« at wltli MpiotML Tim t'lMuirlii^ mm kwliiug: ct nn. m^A
wmUMhiA mA «ttwr wltfi mwki^ iiWiiiiiiiiWiiiHiM fer tiw Jwt

NIAGARA IN WINTER. 67

For want of something better to say, I ask my neighbour
on iny right for information as to the way of preserving the
singular oysters he is devouring. Sir John casts uneasy looks
about him. At last he lifts the spoon to his mouth, turns first
red, then pale, and closes his lips ; his eyes become dilated.
Will he swallow it ? Tliat is the question. He does swallow it ;
but he immediately seizes a tankard of beer, takes one drink —
that is quite enough ; he orders the waiter to take away both
oysters and beer, and helps himself to a stiff glass of cognac,
looking at me rather sheepishly as he does so.

" Come," thought I with resignation, " it seems that it is
still worse than it looks."

The lookers-on are sneering at the unfortunate Englishman.
I take advantage of this diversion to set to work. By dint of
energy and perseverance, I empty my plate and tumbler, and,
behold me cro\vned a Canadian ! I am infamous enough to
declare the oysters excellent, and they immediately want to
give me a second dose. I manage to escape this politeness,
which would have been too much for my courage, and I forget
the frightful taste of the mixture I have just swallowed, in
eating a slice of lei; of mutton, which Sir John dure not touch.

Towards nine o'clock I escorted IVIiss Mary buck to the
Scotia, closely followed by my antagonist. The following
morning we were on our way to Ikuston, hteering through a
fog, which nuide it necessar)'^ to keep the alunn Iwll conHtuiitly
ringing, in order to avoid a c4jlliMiou. Owing to th« huow, the
depth «»r which rrntb-nd all e«>njnjnni<ution with th»j inti-rior
inipoHHJbh', 1 wuH obliged to y;ivv up my intention of reit«:hing
the St. iMV^wtive, in iii»c«««d it ait fur lui tJm Nia^uia FuHh, tito
principal objeit uf my voyuK'--

I t«xik leavu of Uim Mary arnl Imt fuilier, afti-r ree«.iviii|^ a
preiMiinf,!: iu\itut'u>u t4i vi»it tiunn il yi I ettme (41 riiieiniutti.
.Uut UN I HUH isuUrin^ tlu' milwuy «ttmwjt« . I mw Hir .b'hti.
Mu w«t» not il). ^w^l far lmv.:fliiti||, bill h<« k« pi io« .vi* i*ri ttti*,
am il*tmii,\i t< '"" - ..-.^immkimmAftif tu\ -i. <. ; . J |»ii«»w^l

ktm wiiJMiiii iiui 4U* ' :^ frnMiffitiUtm. mii^ Urn imii i - 4

*4 tui^idiUtmfji^ w* fawdl tliml u^ U^r tw* li** «U%«.

8 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

True, we had only exchanged contemptuous smiles ; if my boots
and clo%k amused him, his vexation at Miss Mary's preference
for me was sufficient retaliation.

Twelve hours later we reached New York, where I found
a spring-like temperature. However, far from imitating the
Yankees, who were already beginning iced drinks, I walked
along the shore of the bay, thankful at feeling the warm sun
once again on my shoulders.

The same evening, in the drawing-room of a charming
Spanish lady, I announced my intention of visiting the Niagara
Falls. My project was received with loud protests. ''It is im-
possible," said they, " to get near the Falls in winter, or to see
the islands and walk in the cave of the winds; I ought to
wait for the summer to see Niagara in all its splendour."
And they were Americans those travellers, par excellence, who
tried to persuade me to give up my excursion. They told me
that it would be mere waste of time, and that I should come
back quicker than I thought to do. They even added that I
should risk finding a lodging, the hotels being deserted as
s(X)n as the snow begins to fall. I had travelled too much to
allow myself to be intimidated ; besides, as I must shortly start
for New Orleans, I had no choice of season left me.

A week later I went to the New York railway station, and
took the train for Albany. The waiting-room of this extensive
line was nothing but a small, insignificant apartment, scantily
furnished with wooden forms so well covered with grease, that
I dared not sit down. The dirty state of the termini and the
American cars seems to me to have been generally overlooked by
European travellers, who, when in the United States, shut their
eyes to all but liberty, I have ltd an existence too free from
trammels not to understand the enthusiasm w' ' jh the love of
liberty inspires ; but cleanliness is not to be vN - dsed. I also
confess that when several of my travelling companions shouldered
their guns to fire past me from the carriage at an unfortunate
crow, which I innocently watched from the window, I should
have preferred seats less dusty and brushed, if only once a year,
to this proof of national independence.

NIAGARA IN WINTER. 69

Hardly had we started, than one of my companions informed
me that we were travelling on the best-laid railroad in the
United States. It is true a communicative passenger — one is
hardly allowed to be silent in America — had told me the sa'^e
thing of the railroad between Boston and New York. I have
crossed the I'nited States from one extremity to the other, and
I know that this praise of the Boston and Albany railroads is
well merited.

My fellow-travellers were not long in informing themselves
of the price of my hat, and travelling-bag, an article then
unknown in America. They drew my attention to the little
flags which the pioneers held up to show that the line was
clear, or to stop trains in case of danger. I was much struck
with this happy innovation, and my companions seemed to notice
my wonderment with surprise.

« * « « « « #

The train stops.

" Kingston ! " cried the guard.

I smile as I remember that it was at Queenstown in Ireland
that Sir John came on board the Scotia. I lean mechanically
out of the window; a traveller runs along the platform, and
jumps into the train. Upon my word, Sir John has a brother,
or it is he himself I have just seen.

CHAPTER II.

The palisades of the Hudson — A stolen repast — Is it he?— The Falls — The
suspension bridge — Blondin's rope — Under the Niagara — Cincinnati —
An introduction.

If there is much unworthy of admiration in the United States,
still all is not to be found fault with. The railway cars are
made so as to allow of passing from one end of the train to the
other, even when it is in motion. As an exception to the rule,
the train in which I had taken my place was arranged like our

70 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

own, so that it was impossible to discover w^hether my surmise
was but an illusion. After all, what did it matter? To my
knowledge Sir John had never told any one the object of his
visit to America, nor mentioned the place he was going to ; and
the laws of England, France, and America left him at perfect
liberty to go to Alban}'', even in the same train that I had been
pleased to choose for my excursion

The road to Albany, or rather to Troy, is certainly one of
the most picturesque in the world. It runs along the right
bank of the Hudson, which flows on widening and narrowing,
and the celebrated palisades of which a stranger takes at first
sight for immense fortifications. In the distance the steep cliffs
resemble the black marble of the Giant's Causeway in Ireland.
Brigs, steamers, and small boats descend this stream full speed,
or ascend it with more difficulty ; there was an animation only
equalled by that on the Thames below London Bridge. I caught
a glimpse of West Point, the celebrated polytechnic school of
the United States. But the country seemed bare, the houses
were shut up, and one would have thought them uninhabited,
except for the smoke wreathing from the chimneys. The build-
ings, boats, carriages, and inhabitants reminded me of the
neighbourhood of London, which I had recently visited — so much
so indeed, that I asked myself if I were dreaming, and if I had
indeed crossed the Atlantic. It was night, and the rain fell
heavily. The engine gave a shrill, mournful whistle ; we had
reached Albany after doing a hundred and forty-four miles in
seven hours.

I sprang out of the train, and from pure curiosity looked
everywhere for Sir John. I must have been mistaken, for I saw
no signs of my former travelling companien and rival.

The next day, as soon as it was light, I set out again on my
journey. In one day I passed through Utica, Rome, Syracuse,
and Palmyra, to reach Rochester. The country became more and
more desolate, and the snow fell thickly. Yesterday I thought
myself in England, to-day I am in Germany ; the inscriptions
aud sign-boards are all written in the language of that country.
The train stopped to allow of our getting some dinner. Every

NIAGARA IN WINTER. 71

one got up, jostled and elbowed each other in a very unceremo-
nious manner, all trying to squeeze through a narrow door. In
France the twentieth part of this pushing and knocking about
would have brought about a general melee ; not feeling hungry or
vigorous enough to take part in the assault, I allowed the crowd
to pass me.

At last I entered an immense room, aix^ost filled by a large
table, around which most of the places were taken. I installed
myself as well as I could, and a waiter placed boiled turkey
before me, with the traditional Entdish paste-like sauce. I asked
for the bill of fare : it was composed of ten entrees, but the best
had already been demolished by the first comers, whilst I was
washing my hands. I had hardly sat down when my fellow-
travellers rose from the table, and were ready to start again ;
and yet people say that the French are quick ! I have seen
steam and electricity perform marvels in the way of speed, but
they are surpassed by the rapidity with which an American
will gulp down a meal ; it is legerdemain applied to gas-
tronora5%

A bell rings, and I run out at once. It is only the first signal.
A snow-storm is whirling round five or six locomotives. One
of them is shunting, and getting ready to start; is it the
train that I should go by ? There is not a railway official or
placard from which I can get any information. 1 question three
or four gentlemen in vain. What am I to do? I catch sight
of a grocer standing at his shop-door, and as I do not care to be
taken back to Batavia, Tonawinda, or Canandaigna, I address
myself to him, and, being a polite and obliging man, he directs
me to my train.

We make our way through a terrific storm, which quite
obscures our view. Night conies on, and the travellers get out at
the different stations, until I am left alone in my compartment.
At Lockport most of the carriages are taken ofi", including the
sleeping-car, from which a man descends. Tie seems in a bad
humour, and the guard is obliged to tell him three times
that he must get into my compartment if ho wishes to go to
Niagara. The doOr opens, and Sir John makes his api)earance.

72 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

Our eyes meet. He arranges himself in a way so as to give
me his back ; I imitate him, and thus we proceed on our way.

Has chance thrown us together? It is most probable. In
short, the English tourist is a man of my own age, well-educated,
and able to speak French fluently. Everything should draw
us together, and so much the more as we are fifteen hundred
leagues from the Channel ; but it appeared that we were not
meant to come to a friendly understanding.

The locomotive stops. What has happened ? The darkness
is intense. A continual noise, like the rustling of leaves in a
f<jrest caused by a hurricane, reaches us. The guard makes his
appearance.

" Do you gentlemen wish to cross the bridge ? "
"What bridge?"

" The great suspension bridge. We can take you to the
other side of the Niagara, but travellers generally prefer to get
down here, and cross over on foot."

I did not understand the motive for this preference until the
next day; nevertheless, I followed ray rival's example, and
jumped out of the train.

Nothing was visible .iround us save a far-oif light, which
marked the place of our destination. Directly we had started
we found ourselves sinking in a quagmire at every step. Sir
John grumbles, whilst I laugh, and our troubles are mutual.

" Where are we? where can we find an inn ? " I asked of the
guard.

" I am going to shunt the train ; will you wait for me ? " ■
I was obliged to resign myself to my fate. After waiting a
quarter of an hour, and when I was beginning to shiver with
cold, the guide appeared. He took me to a stove, and then led
me to a table amply provided with food, and lastly, showed me
a comfortable room where I should have slept soundly had it
not been for the unceasing >'oar of the cataract.

I was up next morning before daybreak, which only resulted
in ttying my patience to the utmost. To pass the time away I
went all over the immense hotel, now deserted and silent, but
in summer filled with six hundred travellers at a time. As soon

NIAGARA IN WINTER. 73

as it was light I took Tip my station at a window, and looking
in the direction from which the thundering noise I had heard
all night seemed to proceed, I expected to see the first rayg
of the sun ilhimine the Falls. However, nothing of the kind
was visible. I could only see a few houses, and roads seamed
with rnts ; the hotel was more than a mile from the Falls,

I left my post after making this grand discovery, and went
downstairs just in time to see Sir John start ofif alone in a fly ;
he had been more thoughtful than myself, and had made
inquiries and ordered a carriage the evening before. He looked
at me, and his smile caused me a slight feeling of vexation. It
was ten o'clock before I was, in my turn, in possession of a
carriage and guide. The sun showed itself at rare intervals
through the clouds : a bleak north wind swept the six inches of
snow which covered the ground, and the horses could only get
slowly along. The dull thundering sound, which no comparison
can give an idea of, became more marked. I ensconced myself
in the cushions of the carriage until my guide said, in a phlegm-
atic tone —

"The Falls."

For a long while I remained lost in ecstasy, silent, over-
powered. I did not think, I simply gazed with awe on the
falling mass of water, and the yawning abysses, in this weird
scene. It was a fine spring day when I first saw the ocean ;
the peaceful waves were gently rippling over the shore : my
expectation had been deceived. Here, on the contrary, as when
I first entered a virgin forest, the spe-ctacle surpassed all that I
had dreamt of: my imagination was outdone.

An hour pieviou.sly I had admired the fine engravings on
the v/alls of the hotel representing Niagara under aspects
familiar to all; clumps of green trees, gravel roads, pretty
villas, fine ladies and gentlemen walking about, grounds as well
kept as an English park. Winter had eflfectually transformed
this scene ; before me stretched a desolate, rugged, gloomy land-
scape. The rocks which on the United States side are seen at
intervals, their black masses standing out boldly through the
clouds of spray, were now hidden under a sheet of ice, whilst

74 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

the snow-covered peak of Goat Island was hidden by the foaming
water, boiling and dashing against it. I here saw nothing but
a liquid mass, more than a thousand yards wide, advance majes-
tically, rnd then precipitate itself with overwhelming force into
a gulf beiow. One would have said it was the sea breaking its
bounds and deluging the land.

It was some time before I followed my guide, who no longer
felt any enthusiasm at the sight of this magnificent spectacle.
His first proceeding was to take me to see the rope, still stretched
across the water, on which Blondin had crossed, not the Falls —
which would be impossible — but the Niagara, where its deep,
swift water rolls in great, swollen waves.

I afterwards went on to the suspension bridge, a marvel of
architectural daring. It is more than seven hundred and fifty
feet long, and overhangi: tlio river from a height of about two
hundred and seventy feet. I followed the side-way for foot
passengers, the centre being a railroad, and I then understood
that the railway officials were right in consulting the wishes of
travellers before taking them over this aerial road, wider, but
perhaps less firm than that on which Blondin made his omelette.

On reaching the Canadian side I saw the before-mentioned
American fall to my left, and in front of me the horse-shoe of
the principal fall. The banks along the side of the river rise
perpendicularly to the height of at least three hundred feet;
the continual spray showered from the foaming torrent covers the
snow with a mantle of glazed frost, and wherever the water
trickles slowly, it forms fine needles of ice, sometimes several
yards in length. An unexpected ray of sunlight illumined the
scene; a rainbow spanned the whirling eddies; the rocks sparkled
beneath their icy coiting ; the falling water assumed a bluish
tint ; the transparent needles, coloured by the variegated light,
seemed to encase the falls in a gigantic setting of diamonds.

A negro came up unexpectedly, and offered to take me under
the curve described by the waters of the lake as they form the
Falls. The whirlpools possess a fascination which I could
not resist, and I accepted the offer, in spite of the remon-
strances of my first guide. Enveloped from head to foot in a

NIAGARA IN WINTER. 75

waterproof dress, the soles of my "boots provided with climbing-
spuris, and a istafl" in my hand, I ventured on the bank as firm
and polished as a mirror.

The first few steps were easy enough ; then I had to walk
close against the perpendicular side of a smooth rock, to which
I tried in vain to cling to preserve my equilibrium ; but in order
to do that, I should have wanted fingers provided with cupping
glasses like flies' feet. The least false step would have precipi-
tated us into the abyss ; my negro repeatedly reminded me of
this, and I was not in a position which authorized a contradiction
of his words. Before inviting a traveller to attempt this
perilous walk, the guides ought at least to ask whether he is
subject to giddiness. The negto told me, that beneath the bed
of ice on which we were treading, there was a path cut in the
rock, which visitors took in summer.

We were soon under the ice-needles, and I was able to
understand their formation. The edge of the bank overhangs,
and allows the water to trickle drop by drop, which thus freezes
in the form of stalagmites. The path became more practicable
if not easier ; a false step would no longer have been a fatal
condemnation to death. ^Ve ventured between the transparent
columns ; suddenly a formidable noise, which not even the roar
of the Falls could quite stifle, caused me instinctively to lower
my head. It was occasioned by one of the ice-needles which
my guide had disturbed with his staff, and which crumbled to
pieces, awakening a thousand echoes. A few steps further on,
we met a mulatto supporting a benumbed traveller. I uttered
a cry of surprise on recognizing Sir John, enveloped in a water-
proof dress like myself.

" Do you come from the cave ? " cried the negro to the
mulatto.

"No."

" Are you going there ? "

" It is impossible to get there."

I gave my guide a questioning look. He showed me two rows
of white teeth, from ear to ear, and hastened to reply —

" It is difficult ; but, nevertheless, it is to be done."

7(j MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

I contimicd my way ; whilst the Englishman regaled himself
from his flask, and sat down, following me with his eyes.

It was indeed a difficult enterprise. I no longer risked
falling into the Niagara, but many times escaped plunging into
the fathomless basin, hollowed by the Falls, the depth of which
increases every day. Clinging to the ice by the aid of my iron-
pointed staff, or my climbing-spurs, crawling sometimes at full
length, sometimes sideways, rolling to the right and to the left,
not without bruises, and unable to hear a single word of my
guide's directions, I came upon a column of water barring my
passage, J ut which I must nevertheless pass. I sprang for-
ward ; and I confess I should have been knocked down, had
it not been for my companion's firm grosp.

I came off with nothing more than a formidable shower-bath,
and found myself on a l/'ack soil in semi -obscurity, and in a
comparatively warm atmosphere. The negro never let go of me
now, and we advanced cautiously together along a narrow path
where two people could not have stood abreast. Before me the
water was rising and falling in mad fury, and covering me with
icy spray. I leant with my back against a rock ; above my head
arched an immense bluish-green vault : it was the Kiagara.
After a while the deafening roar caused me unbearable torture.
I wanted to sit down to contemplate, to reflect. Vain efforts !
One determined, imperious, maddening thought alone possessed
me, which was to silence the cataract, and prevent the water
from whirling arourc' me. A stone from the rocks fell at my
feet, on the ve'»*y verge of the abyss ; I stooped down to pick it
up, and then made a sign to my guide that I wished to return.
I passed under the waterfall again, and directly the sky was
visible I stretched myself on the ice and breathed freely, whilst
my negro smiled placidly.

Was the kind of nightmare, which had filled me with the
mad longing to struggle against the Niagara, occasioned by the
cold, by the want of air, or by a low state of the spirits ? I am
rot subject to giddiness, and 1 think a deafening and continuous
noise should be i anked among the infernal punishments.

When I had again passed the needles, I caught a glimpse of

f I

'3»C=«t

4«|^m.,.

:^:^l:*S

"THE WATER COVERED WITH FROZEN FOAM."

NIAGARA IN WINTER. 77

— ■ — — ■ — ■ —

Sir John near the hank, and was childish enough to wave my
handkerchief, in sign of triumph.

I slowly made my way back, with only a momentary fear
when crossing for the second lime the min'or of glazed frost,
from which I could so easily have slipped into the river. Once
again on the bank, I vowed never again to go under the
>>iagara — at least, not in winter.

I afterwards visited Goat Island. I also went up the famous
tower, which American newspapers from time to time announce
as having been swept away into the gulf which it overlooks ;
a catastrophe which must happen sooner or later. From the
top of this tower I gazed down into the abyss. I saw the water
advance with giddy swiftness, as though preparing for the leap,
precipitate itself, rise in columns, fall again, finally sweep on
down the slopes, called rapids, and then flow calmly and clearly
beneath the great suspension bridge.

I did not fail to visit the banks of Lake Erie, whose yellow
waters, lashed by the wind, are contiBually adding new waifs to
the trunks of trees heaped up on the shore.

I did not get back to my hotel until evening. There I
learnt that Sir John had just started for Buffalo. I was vexed
at this, and felt like a conqueror disposed to abuse his victory.

Buffalo, which I visited next day, is a large, fine city,
with regularly built streets, which undoubtedly, on account
of their width, are somewhat monotonous and dull. At the
beginning of the present century Buffalo was only a village,
with scarcely a thousand inhabitants. Although situated at
about three hundred and twenty miles from the sea, this city,
through Lake Erie, and the canal which connects it with New
York, is now a port of the first importance, and a centre of
manufacture and trade. It is the great place of resort for all
German emigrants, who have gradually turned this part of the
United States into a new Rhine-land.

From Buffalo I went to Pittsburg, where the rivers Alleg-
hany and Monogahela unite and form the Ohio, one of the
principal affluents of the Mississippi. The Ohio, with its yellow
water, flows between two flat shores, and is subject to periodical

78 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

inundations. This grand river, twice as wide as the Seine at
Paris, falls into the Mississippi at Jefferson, after a course of
1180 miles.

Fifty years ago the country watered by the Ohio was almost
a desert. Travellers scarcely ever ventured on these plains,
formerly inhabited by an industrious people, traces of whom
are found at every step. From the American archaeological
point of view, Ohio is the richest of the United States. Un-
fortunately, up to the present day the researches of *ne learned
have thrown little light on the mysterious peopl-> who covered
it with buildings, and whose name is not even known among
the Indians.

The steamer, on board which I had been making my voyage
of exploration, landed me one fine morning at Cincinnati. I at
once went in search of the house where Miss Mary and her
father lived. The doctor received me with all the warmth of
an old acquaintance. His daughter was not at home, but he
invited me to dinner, and sent at once for my portmanteau,
which I had left at an hotel, declaring that I should sleep under
his roof as long as I stayed in his native town.

" We often talk of you, Mary, John, and myself," said the
old gentleman to me ; " to say the truth, I hardly expected to
see you again."

I was going to ask the doctor if he had a son, when a
carriage stopped before the house, and, to my great surprise, in
came Miss Mary, leaning on Sir John's arm.

" My husband," said the young lady to me after having
shaken hands.

Then she gave my name to Sir John Burton ; so at last we
were introduced to each other.

At dessert I learnt that the young baronet, attracted by
Miss Maiy's charms, had not hesitated to leave England and
take a berth on board the Scotia at Queenstown. He followed
the doctor as far as Cincinnati, and there formally demanded
his daughter's hand. The doctor having required a week's
delay before giving an answer. Sir John had taker thr- journey
to Niagara to pass that time as quickly as possible. It was for

NIAGARA IN WINTER. 79

the sake of propriety that Miss Mary had always accepted my
arm on board; the good Englishman thus regarded me as a
rival, and naturally had a grudge against me.

" Who would ever have suspected this little romance?" said
I to my new friend, warmly shaking his hand.

" True," cried the doctor. " Who on board would ever have
thought that you were aspiring to become my son-in-law ? "

" No one but myself, perhaps," rejoined Lady Burton
blushing, whilst her husband kissed her, and her father
hummed the Americaii national air of " Yankee doodle."

SAN FRANCISCO.

The Chinese theatre — A fellow-countryman — The El Dorado of Cortez — The
village of San Francisco— A rich proprietor — A gaming-room — A
Yankee, Yankee, and a half — "A bird in the hand is worth two in
the bush."

It was five o'clock in the afternoon, when, beginning to feel
uncomfortaLly inclined to yawn, I made up my mind to leave
the Chinese theatre of San Francisco, where curiosity had
led me. Were the actors indifferent ? I do not think so ; for
the Chinese by whom I was surrounded were approving the
tirades recited for their benefit, with very significant nods. As
for the piece — an exaggerated drama, as well as I was able to
judge from the length of the spears with which the actors
threatened each other — in order to appreciate its dramatic
and literary merits, I ought to have understood the Chinese
language, a knowledge in which I was entirely wanting. At
first the costumes, the stage-scenery, the music, and the
spectators, had all interested me; but after watching for two
hours some awkward clowns making grimaces, brandishing their
swords, defying and occasionally asb«alting each other without
my having the least idea of the reason ol fheir incessant quarrels,
I began to detest the theatrical art — in the Chinese form of
course understood.

Whilst doing my best to try and understand for what crime
the young Chinaman who filled the role of the princess was
continually threatened with death, I mechanically climbed one
of the numerous hills on which the capital of California is built.
Leaving the Kjuses behind me, I soon espied a large isolated

SAN FRANCISCO. 81

tree with moss-covered roots, forming a luxurious seat, on which
I comfortably ensconced myself. From this spot, whither chance
had led me, I had a magnificent view of the city and bay of
San Francisco, which soon banished the incomprehensible
Chinese drama from my mind.

The sun was low in the horizon, and its rays, gilding the blue
waves of the Pacific, reminded me of that vermilion sea which
washes the coasts of Lower California, and which also bears the
name of the Sea of Cortes. Here and there white sails filled by
a gentle breeze wafted a fishing-smack over the golden waves,
or indolently bore a vessel to the open sea. Below me lay the
immense bay of San Francisco bristling with masts, from the top
of which floated the ensigns of all maritime nations; whilst the
noises from the city, with its quays, its up-and-down-hill streets,
and its temporary buildings, sounded in the distance like an
immense bee-hive at work.

I was lost in contemplation, when a voice above me, politely
asking for a light, interrupted my reverie. The new comer
held a cigar in his hand, and spoke in French. He was a
man of about fifty, with a fair complexion, a firm, energetic
countenance, and piercing eyes. In reply to his request I gave
him my fusee-case. He thanked me, and after taking a few
puffs at his cigar, seated, himself quietly beside me.

" A fine view, and a beautiful country," said he, stretching
his arm towards the sea and gradually bringing it round to
the hiUs.

" Are you a Frenchman, sir ? " I asked, in lieu of reply.

"Certainly. I am from Boulogne-sur-Mer ; and what is
more, I am your next-room neighbour at the hotel de la Sanure.
It was on the strength of being your countryman that I took
the liberty of asking you for a light."

" Do you live in San Francisco ? "

•' Yes, for the present."

I again looked towards the bay, across which a steamer was
passing, and my companion seemed to be absorbed in contempla-
tion of the city.

" I almost think I am dreaming when I cany my thoughts

82 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

back ten years," said he i\ll at once. " At that time, sir,
yoiA would see a vessel one*, a month in this bay, where now
thousands are crowding together. As to the great city lying
at our feet, it then consisted of about fifty houses."

"Did you ever visit California before it belonged to the
United States?"

"Yes, in 1845. I had read the old Spanish authors, and I
knew that Cortez, after the conquest of Mexico, had explored
the coasts of the Pacific in search of the El Dorado. Charles the
Fifth encouraged the conqueror in this enterprise, but the latter
scarcely went further than Lower California. Urged by I know
not what instinct, I set out in search of the land of gold, sought
for in vain by Cortez, and one fine day I landed on this appa-
rently barren coast. I lived here almost six months. Convinced
that the soil was fertile, the country pleasant, and the climate
healthy, I resolved to settle here ; and, in company with one of
my friends, I bought all the land you can see before you."

" All the land before my eyes ! " I repeated, turning towards
my csompanion.

" All," replied he, taking short pufis at his cigar ; " the land
on which this city is built included."

"Did the land on which San Francisco is built belong to
you ? " I resumed, slowly scanning my words.

" It belongs to me still, if you please, and in such an incon-
testible way that the American Government are now oifering
me ten million dollars in exchange for my title of proprietor."

" And are you going to accept the ofier ? "

" No ; I refuse, as I want twenty million."

I thought I must be talking to an individual slightly de-
ranged in his mind, like several I had seen at the time the gold
fever was bringing so many emigrants to California ; but my
companion spoke so quietly and seriously that I hardly knew
what to think of him.

" Yes," he resumed at last, " do what I will, I continually see
behind this populous city the miserable village founded by
the Franciscan missionaries in 1776, which, notwithstanding its
good position, had so ill prospered, that when first I came here

SAN FE AN CISCO. 83

it had a population of scarcely two thousand inhabitants. I
have seen the poor Indians disappear one by one from this
coast where they used to live; everywhere and at all times
civilization is fatal to the coloured races."

*' By what chance," said I, " did you become possessor of this
land ? Did you foresee the future of California ? "

" Not the least in the world. As I have told you, I came here
in search of gold, of which there is abundance, as we now know ;
but I did not know how to find it. After buying the land which
surrounds us, 1 was discouraged and weary of wandering about, so
I determined to cultivate the vine, which has always flourished
wonderfully in California. I dreamt of providing the two
Americas with wine, and entering into trading negotiations with
Europe. Unfortunately, I reckoned without considering the
indolence of the natives, and, for want of help, I was obliged to
give up my plans. Having made up my mind to go back to the
Sonore, I tried in vain to sell the lands I had bought, even at
the most insignificant price. I could find no purchaser. I went
away, taking my title-deeds with me ; and again I set out in
search of the El Dorado dreamt of by Cortez, and near which I
had just been unconsciously living."

" How was it you did not put forward your rights directly
after the cession of California to the United States, on the rise
of San Francisco ? "

" You forget, my good friend, that the rise of this city has
been in some measure startling. In less than six months the
village, the greater part of which was in my possession, became
a considerable town, and if I had dared mention my rights to
the first emigrants, I should soon have had a bullet through me.
Nevertheless, I could have made good my claims if, as I have
just told you, I had not then been lost in the wilds of La Sonore.
At the present day the right of the strongest is no longer the
only law which governs this fine country, and I confidently
await my twenty millions of dollars."

Night was coming on. My companion got up, and I followed
him. We returned to the town by the Chinese quarter, and in
passing between two rows of little shops lighted by coloured

84 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

lanterns, I could quite fancy myself for the moment in a city
of the Celestial Empire.

San Francisco is the most dusty city in the world, for the
hills on which it is built are dov/ns, from which fine white dust
rises with the slightest breeze. Built hastily and at hazard- tho
houses are cramped together on the steepest hills without any
regard to the convenience of foot passengers. The town, at first
built of wood, has been several times destroyed by fire, and is
gradually being reconstructed of stone. It is of no use to work
continually for the edification of new inhabitants. San Francisco
is always too small for the population it contains. One must
be very rich to have a house of one's own in this city ; thus it is
that the majority of the inhabitants live at hotels. But every
day civilization accomplishes its wonders here ; the streets are
laid out in straight lines, paved, and provided with side walks.
If the police still leave much to be desired, they are neverthe-
less beginning to protect the public against the bands of ill-
doers of all nationalities, who from the first made this a place of
resort. The gold fever has given way to that of agriculture, and
California grain is now to be seen in European markets. There
is no thought of misery in this fortunate city, where paper-money
is unknown ; and at the time at which I am writing the dollar
might be considered as the equivalent of the French franc.
Will this prosperity last? Yes, if one considers that but a
third of the whole country is cultivated, and that vast tracts
of land where European grain and tropical productions might
grow, still remain to be cleared.

After having taken me through the districts of a city, too
often described for me to hazard giving a slight sketch, which
would no longer be true at the present day, my companion
invited me to dine with him, and told me his history more at
length. He bitterly complained of his partner, whose exigencies,
he t-aid, prevented the Washington Cabinet from closing the
credit which the incessantly growing city rendered every day
incalculably more valuable.

My companion had accompanied me to my room, where
we talked together until about ten o'clock, when our conver-

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SAN FR.'ils CISCO. 85

sation was interrupted by the sound of cries and a pistol-shot
below us.

" What is happening ? " I cried.

" Oh ! some dispute between two gamblers."

We went down ; the report which we had heard proceeded
from a revolver which its owner had let fall, and which had
discharged itself. I entered the gaming-room, brilliant with
gilding and lights. A score of men with neglected beards,
dressed in woollen shirts, and pistols in their belts, were sitting
at a table covered with green cloth, gambling and paying
their stakes with gold-dust. Chinamen were taking round grog,
consisting more of brandy than water, and often receiving from
the fortunate gamesters a pinch of the precious metal. In short,
it was a sorry spectacle, and I did not stop long in this den.

I was obliged to start for Mazatlan the next morning, and at
break of day my friend of the preceding evening awoke me, and
accompanied me to the American schooner on which I was to
embark.

" Now you know all my affairs," said he to me, " what would
you do in my place ? "

" I should accept the ten millions already offered," I replied,
" and then make for Europe as quickly as possible, to live there
in peace."

" Pooh ! " said he. " With my ten millions, which, in fact,
would be reduced to five, since I have to share them, I should
be nobody in London or Paris. Yes, I must have the twenty
millions ; I have nieces to portion."

Five years later, when riding through Cordova, a small town
situated on the high-road from Vera-Ciuz to Mexico, I alighted
before a grocery shop, where I wanted to buy a box of fusees.
What was my surprise on seeing behind the counter my San
Franciscan acquaintance. The Mexican newspapers had spoken
of his lawsuit, then of his imprisonment; some had even said
that the title-deeds he produced were false. Jonan — I think I
may mention his name without indiscretion — took me into the
parlour behind his shop, and again related his history to me.

86 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

He had, in fact, been in gaol, and after two years of imprison-
ment, had succeeded in escaping.

" I ought to have followed your advice," said he to me; "but
in order to secure my ten millions, I had the bright idea of
changing the square roods on the title-deeds into square acres.
This little game would have succeeded, and it would have been
a smart piece of business to do the Yankees out of fifty million
<lollars; but, unfortunately, I had a quarrel with my partner.
He wanted the lion's share, declaring that if I would n^c yield
to his demands, he would expose me as a forger. I forestalled
him, and made a clean breast of our little business to au
American judge. We were imprisoned, but my partner managed
to escape ; and taking advantage of circumstances, in retaliation
the Yankees at once declared all my title-deeds false, and
pocketed the ten millions, which, if I had listened to your
advice, I should have now possessed."

This confession, made very innocently, showed me that a
twenty-years' stay in California can singularly deaden the
conscience of even a Frenchman.

"After all," said the proprietor of the ground of San
Francisco, " I still have several square miles in La Sonore,
which the Americans will want to seize, sooner or later; but
I shall have my revenge then, for this time my title-deeds
are drawn up in good form : all the same, those Yankees are
notorious scoundrels."

I have nothing further to tell you, dear readers, than that
this is a trae story.

TORTOISE ISLAND.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Havre — Deerfoot — Senor Bandoin— Count Monistrol and
Baron Martin — The trade winds — Equatorial calm — The Phaeton — An
arrest.

Love of one's country is no imaginary feeling, as modern
Utopians pretend. Seven times from the deck of a steamboat I
had seen the coast of France standing out clear against the
horizon, and then disappearing again in proportion as the wind
and steam bore us away from the land, and each time my heart
beat painfully, and I felt a strange feeling of oppression. On
these occasions I always take refuge at the stem, and there,
unnoticed by any one, with moistened eyes I gaze on the shore
and cliffs of my native country until there is nothing to be
seen of them but a far-off bluiish vapour. I shuddered at the
thought that death might suddenly overtake me when far from
this beloved land, and that my body would lie in strange
ground; but I soon -roused myself from these melancholy
thoughts. I was twenty when I went on my first voyage, and
I thought myself more master of my life than it was mistress
of my destiny. It seemed to me impossible that my desires
should not, sooner or later, become realities ; it was only a
question of waiting.

I have waited, or rather the hours, days, and years have
rolled on without being waited for. How many buds, on the
verge of blossoming, have perished without blooming ! how
many, which should never have withered, now strew the paths
I have trodden with their discoloured petals ! One must blend
the ideal with the real in our lives ; but if one would avoid a

88 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

painful fall, ideas and dreams must not be too lofty. We should
try as much as possible to remember that life never begins
again, and that of the two faces she shows us, the past and the
future, the last only really belongs to us.

On the 4th of January, 1853, I was standing on the poop of
a brig, en route for Yucatan. Provided with a telescope, I
watched Havre disappear behind Francis the First's Tower, which
was pulled down several years ago in order to enlarge the
entrance of the harbour. It was three o'clock in the afternoon,
the sky was black, and the sea rough. After having taken us
out to sea, the pilot lowered himself into his boat, and left us to
our fate; and the Zampa, tossing and rolling, began bravely to
cut through the waves, which seemed to try their utmost to bar
her passage. A mist soon hid the land from view, and I tumec*
my looks towards a sea-gull, which was following in our wake,
uttering hoarse cries, and sometimes dipping its wings in the
white foam. It was almost night when the bird flew twice
round the ship, and then was lost in the mist.

For twelve days the Zampa struggled with this rough wea-
ther. At meal times, although feeling ve^y uncomfortable, I took
my place opposite the captain and the second mate. The cold
was intense, and the deck, continually swept by the waves,
afforded no shelter. Groans were continually rising from the
depths of the cabin ; and, being able to walk about, I was an
object of envy to my fellow-travellers. Our crew was composed
of eight sailors, who, through working night and day, were almost
overcome with fatigue. No one on board wan lively except
" Deerfoot," who was continually humming to himself, and who
might be seen almost at the same time at stem and stem, in
the cabins or in the yards, as though he had the gift of being in
two or three places at once. I followed his example as much as
I could — that is to say, I ferreted about everywhere ; but with a
marked disadvantage. If, for instance, I started for the capstan
the same time as Deerfoot, I invariably got there last; and when
I thought I had reached him, I heard him whistling over my
head, or answering the captain's call from some comer or other,
it was a curious fact that every one on board was allowed to

TORTOISE ISLAND. 89

order about Deerfoot, and the fragile little fellow found means
to satisfy every one. Never did I see such an active little being ;
and yet he did not belong to the monkey tribe.

Deerfoot was fourteen j ears old ; ho had well-opened black
eyes, regular features, and a rough head of hair. He was bom
on the coasts of Brittany, not far from Piriac. During the three
years in which he had sailed as cabin-boy, Deerfoot had visited
India, Brazil, Newfoundland, and Occanica. >Vhen I could per-
suade him to talk for a minute, I led him on to tell me about
his voyages, and nothing was more amusing than the remarks of
this heen observor ; and after all, of all the countries he had seen,
one only seemed to him beautiful, fertile, gay — his own. He
knew of nothing superior to the cottage where he was bom,
where his mother was waiting for his return. The voyage to
Yucatan, where the yellow fever is so prevalent, is always well-
paid, and an increase of salary had tempted the cabin-boy to visit
Campeachy instead of New York. Deerfoot had his theories : he
firmly believed in God, and not at all in the yellow fever ; or
rather, according to him, the disease would only attack silly
people. He only thought of one thing, which was the geveuty-
five francs which his voyage was to gain him. He regarded his
seventy-five francs as an inexhaustible mine, and the Zampa
would not be able to contain the things he intended buying for
his mother with this sum so hardly earned. Deerfoot had
hardly reached the age I spoke of, when one thinks one's self
master of one's life. It is an undeniable fact that I quite forgot
the bad weather when I was able to get a few minutes' con-
versation with the little sailor. He repeated his words a little,
as blunt honest hearts have a way of doing, but one was never
tired of listening to him.

The life of a passenger on board ship is insupportable ; the
idleness to which one is condemned makes the time seem
doubly long, and the unfortunate traveller carries his weariness
from stem to stem, and from deck to cabin. One cannot alvrays
read, the walks backwards and forwards become irksome ; never-
theless, exercise is beneficial. Thus it is that directly I go on
board a vessel, I place myself in apprenticeship and try to make

90 3IY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

myself useful for my own sake. I go up into the yards, I learn
the names of the rigging, how to manage the helm, and the
hundred and one ways of tying a knot. Provided with this
knowledge, I help the sailors in their work — at least, I look as
if I were helping them, which gains their friei dship. Without
counting the captain, the second mate, and Deerfoot, I soon had
other friends on board the Zamjpa ; these were Mathurin, John,
and Pomic. I do not know whether I ought to reckon Baudoin
among the number.

Baudoin lived on deck in the boat placed near the mainmast.
He was rather bad-tempered, and never left oflF gruml'ling.
Gifted with a formidable and not at all delicate appetite, he was
never satisfied. Deerfoot often reproached him oti this account.
However, this sulky, surly Baudoin was very good friends with
me. I often obtained leave in the mornings for him to be
allowed to walk about the deck ; and the poor creature, as little
accustomed to the pitching as to the rolling, tried to follow me,
stumbling, picking himself up, and then, infuriated, taking
refuge in his last resource of grunting. We had to use force to
get him reinstated in his boat ; for the captain, a strict observer
of rules, would never allow a passenger of the 'tween decks to
ascend the steps leading on to the poop. The reason of this
rigour is not wanting in logic : a cabin passenger pays about
twenty pounds, and a passenger of the 'tween decks only twelve ;
now, a sum of six pounds makes a gulf between two men, the
depth of which is only known to those who have experienced a
long sea-vo}age.

At first sight one might think that a second-class passenger
was necessarily an inferior being in every respect to a first-class
passenger. Well, it may be strange, but such is not the case
In my seven voyages — I do not recall them for the sake of
boasting — I have met with ais many well-educated and intel-
lectual men below the poop as above. I err : Baudoin was
superior to no one; he was less a passenger than a victim, and
the captain was right in excluding him from the reserved
enclosure.

Baudoin was a victim ! The shipowner's orders allowed of

TORTOISE ISLAND. 91

no weakness on the part of the captain ; he was to have the
prisoner executed as soon as we should have reached a certain
degree of latitude. What was the crime of the unfortunate
creature ? Alas ! that incident to his race : he was good to eat.
One evening, a fortnight after leaving Havre, as the wind had
subsided for the moment and was content with filling out the
sails, the captain, smoking his pipe on deck, answered Baudoin's
grunting by bragging to me of his cook's talents. The bad
weather had so far prevented the head steward from making a
display of his culinary science. After the execution of Baudoin,
I should eat — so the captain assured me — black puddings,
sausages, ham, brawn, and bacon, such as I had never eaten
before. This little enumeration is, I suppose, enough to let my
readers know that Baudoin belonged to that class of pachy-
dermous animals of which Mr. Isidore Geoffrey had made the
family of the Sulliens, and which are called boars, sows, or hogs,
according to their sex or age.

In passing, I may remark that, with fowls and turkeys, the
animal that served as a dog to St. Antony is one of the greatest
resources in long voyages. It is known at what epoch turkeys
were civilized ; but no one can tell the original type of the pig,
so well-modified and transformed by English breeders. As for
the fowl, it is thought to be a native of Persia, and what is
known for a fact is, that India from the remotest times has
furnished us with this useful species of bird. On the other
hand, Europeans wore greatly surprised to find domestic fowls
in all the South Sea Islands. At Oualan, an island situated
between the group of the Carolines and the Mulgravian
Archipelago, although fowls were very plentiful, they were not
used for food by the natives, who only learnt that they were
good to eat from the crew of la Coquille. Fowls, turkeys,
pigs, dogs, cats, horses, in fact, all domestic animals, vary
very much in form, plumage, or skin, which greatly perplexes
naturalists.

Climate has undoubtedly a great deal to do with these
transformations, and it is to this that must be attributed a
peculiarity met with on the south coast of the Gulf of Mexico,

92 MY E AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

where one finds fowls with black flesh. Although disagreeable
to look at, these negro fowls are quite as tender and savoury as
any others. Do you doubt, my reader, that there is a country
where black fowl is served up at table? I have many times
been asked to take some, and have helped others to it.

Five weeks after leaving Havre, we were sailing on a tepid
sea in splendid weather, and every one on board the Zampa
had forgotten the hardships of the first fortnight. Four good
mothers of families, with their children, had successively made
their appearance on the 'tween decks, accompanied by four
working-men, the fathers of this little colony.

At the table where I had for so long kept company with the
captain and the second mate, I now found the widow of a planter,
a good lady, but rather afiected ; then a fat gentleman, who,
from his thick gold chain, his trinkets, studs, and rings, I took
at first for a jeweller. I was mistaken. I was in the presence
of a banker, who, having bought some land at Yucatan, was
going to inspect it with a view to colonizing.

Twenty-four hours after Mr. Martin, Count Simeon de
Monistrol made his appearance. He was young, well dressed,
neither plain nor handsome, but a great fop. As soon as he had
taken his place next to the widow, he talked to me of hardly
anything else than his horses, his shooting-grounds, his estates,
and, in lieu of ancestors, of his money. Noisy discussions took
place between these two passengers, who had no sympathy with
each other. The captain listened to their discussion with a
knowing look, only interfering when it verged upon a dispute.
As for myself, I found Monsieur Simeon too aristocratic, and
Mr. Martin too wealthy, not to keep me at a distance.

In revenge, I paid attention to Dona Mencia and her
daughter Clara, amiable Spanish ladies, living in Yucatan,
but who had been brought up at Paris. Dona Mencia was a
relative of one of my friends at Mexico ; so we willingly enough
formed an acquaintance. Nevertheless, we were much amused
at our companions' discussions, especially when Monsieur Simeon
de Monistrol styled Mr, Martin the haron ; a title which wo
all soon adopted for the Croesus.

TORTOISE ISLAND. 93

The confidence shown me by Dona Me:", , drew on me from
time to time a sarcastic remark from these gentlemen, especially
when they saw me talking familiarly with the passengers of the
'tween decks. These good people knew nothing of America,
thus they were glad of any information I could give them ; and
I prepared them somewhat for the difficulties and annoyances
which they would be sure to meet with in this foreign land.
Dona Mencia and her daughter took great interest in the women
and the children, and every day distributed some of their own
wardrobe among them.

Deerfoot, who had been obliged to serve as general valet to
every one, rose still higher in my esteem. The sea no longer
amused itself with playing him bad jokes and doubling his
work, so that the cabin-boy had now a little leisure. I under-
took to teach him to read ; but soon Miss Clara replaced me at
the lesson hour, as, taking the advice of the second mate, I
profited by the fine weather to devote myself to fishing, or
rather to letting out lines, which, after having floated from
sunrise to sunset on the surface of the golden sea, returned fruit-
lessly to their box.

One daj, a sailor of the name of Lambert, the only one
with whom I was not intimate, brutally struck little Deerfoot.
I snatched the lad from the coward's grasp, which action drew
upon me a volley of coarse insults. Stunned by the blow, with
a bleeding face the poor little lad crept up to Baudoin's boat,
and there wept in silence, his sense of honour preventing him
from making any complaint. This w^as not the first time Lam-
bert had ill-treated the poor cabin-boy. In the evening, when
all was quiet, and the captain and I were smoking together on
the poop, Lambert came up to take the helm. I at once took
the opportunity of speaking in a loud voice of the sailor's
brutality and insolence ; and the captain, who was ill-satisfied
with the man's service, severely reprimanded him. Lambert
made no reply ; but when he was relieved from his watch, he
passed close by me and swore that he would throw me in the sea
on the first favourable opportunity. The threat did not frighten
me ; nevertheless I had received a warning, £»nd not caring to
take a bath in the open sea, I k^pt on my guard.

94 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

Three days after this, the captain came on deck just as
Lamhert was again ill-treating Deerfoot. The commander of the
Zampa was a kind man, but he strictly enforced discipline.
Lambert received a rough shaking in his turn ; and the captain
threatened to give him over to the first man-of-war we met,
where he would learn obedience. Grumbling fiercely between
his teeth, he declared, that not only would he throw me into
the sea, but that he would send Deerfoot and the captain after
me; which threat very much alarmed Dona Mencia and her
daughter.

We were in search of the trpde winds, which always blow in
the direction of the diurnal movement of the sun; that is to
say, from east to west. This phenomenon very much terrified
the companions of Christopher Columbus ; for seeing the wind
blow persistently in the same direction, they feared they should
never get back to Spain. Science now explains the natural
cause of these trade winds. They are composed of an upper
and lower current, produced by the unequal heat of two bodies
of air, which thus glide one over the other to recover their equili-
brium. Before this discovery, the cause of the wind was attri-
buted to the rotation of the earth, the movement of which was
thus almost palpable.

If sailors are eager to find the trade wind, they feel,
nevertheless, some apprehension in approaching the equator;
they dread the equatorial calms, which seem as though of
eternal duration. There is not a breath of wind ; the ship
lies motionless; the sun's rays fall vertically on the deck,
melting the pitch which joins the planks of the ship, and
the sea is as smooth as glass, without the slightest movement.
A month may pass thus before a tempest liberates the ship
from this too placid serenity. Water and pro vip ions become
exhausted ; the sailors, wearied by this monotonous calm, in-
tently watch the horizon, and pray for the storm, which may
prove so formidable to them.

Nothing in the way of disasters and vexations seemed to be
wanting during our passage, and one morning we found our-
selves caught in one of these disastrous calms. The captain

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TORTOISE ISLAND. 95

became irritable ; the count and the baron, being unable to
breathe, were at last obliged to postpone for a time their inter-
minable discussions. The ship, transfonaed into a furnace, v. «
uninhabitable; thus we were obliged to live on deck. Assisted
by the second mate, I made a sheltered seat on the poop for Dona
Mcncia and her daughter, who were stifled in their cabins ; and
every evening, turning towards the setting sun, we whistled for
a breeze — an infallible means of obtaining one, according to the
sailors.

We whistled for a week ; and the cloudless sky tinged the
sea with a deep blue. Seated at the stem of the Z'ampa, I spent
many hours examining the transparent water, and gazing into
its fathomless depths. Sometimes a sea-monster would make
his appearance quite close to us : a whale, according to some,
and a shark according to others ; but it never stayed long
enough for us to determine its real form. The Zampa, more
motionless than if she had been lying at anchor in a river,
creaked mournfully. There was not the slightest current ; the
things we threw overboard floated round the ship, and I was
invariably unsuccessful in my fishing.

One afternoon we received a visit from a phaeton, commonly
called a ring-tail. The phaeton lives between the tropics of
Cancer and Capricorn ; its manner of flying is graceful, and
very powerful. The magnificent bird at first hovered above
us, with outstretched wings, as though it were fastened to the
sky ; then, swooping gently down, it flew round our masts, and
again soaring upwards, disappeared from our sight with a few
strokes of its wings.

On the same day, hastily ascending from the hold where he
made frequent inspections, in fear of a fire through spontaneous
combustion, the captain ran to his cabin and reappeared, armed
with a revolver. On a sign from him, Deerfoot violently rang
the bell on board, to give an alarm. Passengers and sailors
hurried on deck.

" Seize that wretch ! " cried the captain, pointing to Lambert,
" and bring him to me."

Lambert turned pale, and tried to get into the shrouds ; but

96 MT It AMBLES IN TEE NEW WORLD.

seeing Mathuriii in his way, he threw himself into an attitude
of defence. On a second order, the sailors soon secured their
companion.

" Put him in irons ! " said the commander, sharply.

Then, whilst they were obeying him, and wo looked on at
this strange scene, the captain spoke rapidly to the second mate,
who, whilst he listened, shook his fist at the prisoner.

CHAPTER II.

Scarcity of fresh water— The calm — Flying-fish — Dorado — Tropical grass —
St. Domingo — Tortoise Island — Freebooters and pirates — An unexpected
meeting.

Had Lambert killed one of his mates ? They were all capable
of defending themselves, and none of them disposed to be ill-
treated. Deerfoot was walking about the deck, so that he was
out of the question. Although the sailors had unhesitatingly
obeyed their captain's orders, they did not seem very ill-dis-
posed towards their companion ; they even smiled after having
exchanged a few words with the helmsman, who had just come
up after the captain from the hold.

"The beer ration will be doubled now," said Mathurin to
Pomic. "If the shipowner had an idea of this, it would be
enough to prevent him from sleeping."

" Provided there is enough on board."

" There is too much," replied Mathurin. " For my own part,
I stowed away forty or fifty barrels."

" To the pumps ! " cried the second mate.

The work at the pumps was an exercise in which I always
joined; so I ran to my post. The Zampa had been recently
repaired, and seemed proof against anything, and the work
at the pumps might be considered as a simple precaution. This
time, to my great surprise, water was flowing from the ship's
sides ; and I afterwards learnt that Lambert, in an excess of mad

TORTOISE ISLAND. 97

folly, had bored holes through all the reservoirs containing our
supply of fresh water, and it was this precious reserve that we
were throwing into the sea !

Nevertheless, the oflfence, grave as it was, did not seriously
annoy me. I knew what an enormous supply of wine and
beer the ship contained, and the idea of thirst and its intolerable
sufferings was done away with. The culprit, humble, dumb,
and struck with consternation, was placed at the foot of the
mainmast near Baudoin, who protested against this by energetic
grunts.

At dinner time we found the dishes rather salt, and the cook
was accused of having a heavy hand. The poor steward justified
himself by saying, that for want of fresh water ho had been
obliged to use sea- water, to which — he assured us quite seriously,
— we should accustom ourselves in a fortnight. Mr. Martin drank
the wine pure, M. de Monistrol did the same ; but the ladies,
from habit, were wanting water every minute, and sadly turned
away their heads when Deerfoot roguishly oifered to draw
some from the ocean for them. The passengers of the 'tween
decks were as pleased as the crow at the double ration of beer
distributed among them. The captain was the only one who
seemed at all anxious.

Next morning, at the time l)eerfoot usually filled our cabin
cans, he was less parsimonious than usual, and generously
distributed a liquid full of salt, soda, potash, magnesia,
chalk, iodine, etc. By reason of which numerous ingredients,
sea-water has the vexatious property of neither cooking meat
nor vegetables, and of stoutly refusing all combination with
soap.

I must confess that Lambert's trick now appeared to me
in a new and disagreeable light. At the end of a week, we
were literally dying of thirst, doubly intensified by the air,
and the enforced use of pure wine. One afternoon, guided by
Providence, a score of flying-fish settled on our deck. The
steward at once seized the clumsy creatures, and cooked them,
and we found their white, delicate flesh a great luxury.

The flying-fish, or exocet (a word derived from the Greek,

98 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

Tneaning out of its house), is about the size of a lierrin*^. Its
back has a beautiful >)biiHh tint, and its pectoral fins, which aro
large, allow of its not only rising in the air, but of its skimming
over the ocean at a distance of about a yard from the water.
The flying-fish is often seen under the tropical rays darting
like an arrow, flying from the pursuits of the liungry dorado,
which often snaps up the fugitive just as its dried fins oblige it
to fall back into the water.

When the sea is calm, the exocet, which almost always flics
horizontally, goes for several hundred yards ; but wlien the water
is rough, it springs from wave to wave, and seems to bound like
the ^a ' Htones with which children amuse themselves in making
ducks and drakes. They almost always swim in shoals, and they
spread themselves out by millions around ships, the enormous
bulk of which probably astonishes them.

Twenty-four hours after the capture of the exocets, just as
I was drawing in my line, which floated from morning to night
at the stem, I felt something heavy at the end, which augured
well. Little by little, with Deerfoot's assistance, I landed a
dorado, a yard long, the brilliant colour of which was a cause
of general admiration. The fine fish struggled for a long while
in painful agony, and its body assumed successively all the
colours of the rainbow, a phenomenon well known to sailors.

A slight cloud was at last seen on the bluish horizon,
and was hailed by loud hurrahs from the crew. It floated
along, grew larger, and then was lost in the golden mist
of the setting sun. I awoke in the middle of the night;
it seemed to me that the ship, leaning on the port side, was
creaking more than usual. I was not deceived ; we were moving,
and the masts of the Zampa were furnished with sails. Setting
foot on deck, I uttered a cry of surprise ; we were surrounded
by tropical grass ; we might have thought ourselves in the midst
of an immense prairie.

The onward progress of th6 vessel enlivened us a little, and
we wanted something to cheer us up, for we felt low-spirited and
dull enough. The crew had begun to feel the bad effects of the
want of fresh water, and to complain of it. Our lips were

TOIiTOISE ISLAND, 99

parched and blcodi^g, and the wine, far from appcaHing the
intolerable thirst to which wo were a prey, only sei-ved to
increase it. The women especially suffered from this state of
things. Mr. Martin would have willingly given a thousand
crowns, and M. de Monistrol one of his castles, to any one who
could liave offered him a glass of pure fresh water, as each of
them remembered having quaffed with delight.

Canipeachy, the place of our destination, was still too far
off for it to be possible for us to reach it without renewing our
supply of fresh water; our health would have failed, and the
captain thought of putting into port. He resolved to take us to
Tortoise Island, in order to avoid paying anchorage, pilotage,
and tonnage dues, required of every vessel which enters a
harbour open to commerce. Thus the bow of the Zampa was
turned in this direction.

I was pleased with this slight alteration of the ship's course,
and not at all sorry to visit the ancient fortress of the bold
pirates who, in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, were the
cause of so much haim to Spanish commerce, and gave St.
Domingo to France. On the 2oth of February, the day on
which we ought to have reached Campeachy if our passage had
been accomplished regularly, we came in sight of the French
cape, and, coasting alongside the large island of Hayti, we saw
rising to our left, the crests of the Cibao Mountains. The Island
of St. Domingo, called Hispaniola by Christopher Columbus, was,
in 1495, the seat of the first European settlement in America.
It became legally French at the peace of Ryswick — that is to
say, in 1C97. A century later, the National Assembly having
decreed the eiliancipation of the negroes, the result of this
liberal proceeding was the massacre of the white people, and
Hayti proclaimed its independence.

The sight of land increased our sufferings, and the captain
had hard work to resist the passengers' entreaties that we might
land at once; but he had the shipowner's interests to consider
before us. So he shut himself up in his cabin to avoid our
complaints. The wind was favourable, but still the Zampd'a
progress did not satisfy our impatience.

100 MY It AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

Under any other circiimstancos, this unexpected detour in our
voyage wouhl liavo heen full of interest, and we should have
loft the land behind us without any feelings of regret. Ah
fishing-hoats were sailing between us and the shore, wo hoped
to see one come near enough to sell us fruit or to give us a
sup])ly of water. Vain hope ! In order to get what we wanted,
we should have been obliged to makr lignals and heave to;
and our captain had but one care, whien was to advance and
make up for lost time.

Often very pretty birds, led l)y their own caprice, or carried
by the wind, would perch among our rigging, and then as
■unexpectedly fly away again. I eveii met with a poor butterfly,
with purple and blue wings, which I presented to Dofia Clara.
Placed })y the young girl in a luxurious bed of cotton wool at
the bottom of a little box, the beautiful lepidoptera succumbed
during the night ; which I believe cost its new mistress a tear.

Crouching at the foot of the mainmast, a victim, like
ourselves, to hiis wicked prank, Lambert would look at us with
wild, hopeless eyes. Discipline, without which a long voyage
would become impossible, required that ho should be given over
to the first man-of-war wo met; and there the unfortunate
creature would have to serve for a year or two, in addition to
the corporal punishment ho would receive. The women, not-
withstanding their sufferings, were the only ones who had
self-denial and goodness enough to pity the prisoner.

I am wrong. Deerfoot, under pretence of attending to
Baudoin, who owed a prolongation of his life to the want of
water, often lingered near Lambert and talked to him.

" If he had the chance, sir," said the good little cabin-boy to
me, " ho would not do it again, for he is dreadfully sorry for his
wickedness. He has already served on board a man-of-war ; and
with the bad character he will get from here, he will scarcely be
able to find another berth. He says it was not his fault, it was
his bad temper. He has asked mo to forgive him for having
beaten me, and he is even sorry at having insulted you. Do
you know, sir, we ought to try and beg the captain to let
him off."

TORTOISE ISLAND. 101

Dona Moncia and her daughter liad soon drawn up a
] tctition ; hut the second mate, to v/hom I Hpoko of the proceed-
ing, assured nio that it wouhl bo useless. The captain would bo
obliged to give strict account to the shipowner of the events on
board, especially when they had such serious results as those
which at present were taking us to Tortoise Island. On the
other hand, to allow such an infractian of discipline to go
unpunished, would be to mako the captain appear unworthy
of his position as commander. Nevertheless, far from being
discouraged by these reasons. Dona Mencia resolved to wait
until the reservoirs should be full of water, and the nearness to
port make all hearts less implacable.

" I shall beg the captain so hard that I shall obtain at least
an alleviation of tliis poor sailor's punishment," said Dona Clara.
" I ask you as a favour," added she, looking at me beseechingly,
*' not to complain so loudly nor so often of being thirsty before
the captain ; I have noticed that it irritates him still more
against Lambert."

I promised, and kept my word.

At last the coast of St. Domingo disappeared ; a bluish
line, which grew rapidly larger, stretched before us. It was
Tortoise Island. The followers of Columbus must certainly
have experienced a lively joy when they first discovered
America ; that is to say, the Island of Guanahani, or San Salva-
dor. I doubt, nevertheless, whether their joy was greater than
ours at the sight of the tall Mimosas which border the northern
coast of the ancient pirate stronghold.

Although about thirty miles in length. Tortoise Island is
only accessible by the channel which separates it from Hayti.
All its northern coast is surrounded with rocks ; but our
captain, whom I then suspected of having once been a smuggler,
«eemed to know all the ins and outs of the coast lying before us.
Towards five o'clock the Zampa, skilfully steered, entered a little
creek and cast anchor about a mile and a half from land.

The long-boat was got ready, lowered, and loaded with
empty casks. My reputation as a worker gained for me, as well
as two of the passengers of the 'tween decks, the good fortune

102 MV B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOItLT).

of taking part in this expedition. Thin favour provoked
energetic protest from Baron Martin and the CVmnt do Monistrol,
who seemed to consider this privilege as a want of respect to
thera. I'lic captain left these august persons to grumble to their
hearts' content, and got into the boat where three sailors and
Deerfoot had already taken their places. Night came on as we
landed. - ■ ■ • ■ •

Eolling the barrels along, we began to climb the rocks, which
was no easy matter when, like the burden of Sisyphus, the casks
were continually threatening to fall back on us. When we had
reached the summit of the rocks the captain seemed to hesitate
for a moment; then, giving us the order to halt, he descended
the hill-side. After a quirter of an hour's absence ho returned,
visibly satisfied. Following his steps, at the risk of being
ci-ushod l)y the fall of o^t barrels, we came to the source of a
email stream gushing from a rock, into the basin of which I
unceremoniously plunged u 'th a cry of delight.

The first cask was filled, an operation which took no less than
two hours. Not wishing to lose time, nor be surprised in the act
of landing, the captain was anxious to set sail again at break of
day ; thus he urged us on to work without intermission. But
if the barrels were filled without any trouble, it was no slight
work to get them back to the shore. J had to remain and watch
the thin stream of water which a zinc gutter, brought fen* this
purpose, conveyed straight to the bung-holes of the casks; whilst
my companions, perspiring, panting, and relieving each other
from time to time, were occupied in rolling the casks to the
shore. On their return, they told mo that the captain, Deerfoot,
and Mathurin had gone back to the ship, taking the water,,
which we found so delicious, to the poor creatures so anxiously
waiting for it.

When the sun rose, only three of our barrels were embarked.
The workmen, overcome with fatigue, stretched themselves
beside the fourth cask and went to sloop. I had neither the
courage to blame nor oppose them taking their well-earned rest,
and in the mean time amused myself botanizing.

The island being well-populated, I was surprised to see no

"ROLLING THE liARRKLS.

TORTOISE ISLAND. 103

trace revea xig the presence of man, and more astonished still
that the approach of the Zampa had not attracted any of the
inhabitants. We were at the bottom of a gorge, where only a
few Mimosas were to be seen growing here and there. I
climbed the slope in front of me, and as soon as I reached the
top, I looked down into a deep valley which I could see, as well
as another low range of hills. I caught sight of a hut in the
distance, and was rather startled by suddenly hearing a cock
crow, and then a dog bark.

I sat down, happy at being able to see trees, flowers, birds,
and butterflies, after spending so many days between sea and
sky ; it was an infinite pleasure to tread on firm ground, and
inhale the fragrant odours. It seemed strange to be on this
island, which owes its name to its form, and plays an important
part in the history of France. I recalled to mind the names of
the bold pirates whose histories have been related by Oexmelin
and Archenholz, heroes who, after having taken Panama in 1670,
Maracaibo in 1677, Vera-Cruz in 1683, Carthagena in 1697,
would perhaps have conquered America, had their policy been
equal to their courage.

I remembered that the first adventurers who settled on
Tortoise Island came from the Island of St. Christopher, then
possessed both by the English and French. After disembarking,
the new comers at once divided themselves into three classes,
which are often mistaken one for the other : the buccaneers, or
hunters ; the filibusters, or pirates ; the inhabitants, or cultivators.

The buccaneers took their name from the wooden hurdle,
boucan, which they made use of in drying the flesh of animals
killed for their skins. It was at the expense of the Spaniards,
who made no scruple of occasionally killing them, that the
buccaneers exerc" -^'^>d their industry. Bold, bravo, and accustomed
to a life of haxv^siiips, the buccaneers were easilj'^ transformed
into filibusters.

The latter, who were true pirates, often gave chase to the
Spanish vessels, and sometimes ravaged the coasts of Mexico and
Peru, and made the cities pay ransom. As to the inhabitants,
a people of more regular habits, they slowly and honestly heai)ed
up fortunes through their agricultural employments.

104 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

The greater part of the French and English adventurers
were driven from Tortoise Island by the Spaniards, who were
inconvenienced by their proximity. But the buccaneers, under
the command of the Englishman Willis, regained possession of
their fortress, firmly established themselves there, and resumed
their excursions on the Island of St. Domingo. The French,
thus consigned to the second rank, demanded aid from their
compatriots, settled in the Island of St. Christopher, and the
Chevalier de Poincy, who commanded in these coasts, listened
favourably to their request. M. le Vasseur, engineer to the
king, embarked on Tortoise Island in 1640, at the head of forty
soldiers, and as many volunteers. The English decamped with-
out offering battle, and the conqueror at once employed his men
in building the fort of La Roche, which still exists.

Thus master of a little kingdom, Le Vasseur busied himself
in duly administering the government. He repulsed an attack
of the Spaniards; but the desire to enrich himself made him hard,
cruel, and unjust, and he was assassinated by two of his officers.
The Chevalier de Fontenay then took his place, and the free-
booters, sure of finding a protector here, resumed their marauding
expeditions. Exasperated by the losses from which they suffered,
the Spaniards had recourse to strong measures, banished the
chevalier, and were soon after dislodged by M. de Eossey, who
gave up the island to M. d'Ogeron, the representative of the
French Company in the West Indies.

The filibusters reckon the Englishman Morgan as one of
their most celebrated chiefs ; it was under his command that
they took Panama. Pierre Legrand, whose adventurous life was
quite a romance, one day, with a boat equipped by twenty-eight
men, took possession of a Spanish ship carrying fifty-two guns.
Nau L'Olannais and Michel le Basque, at the head of four
hundred filibusters, accomplished marvels of daring; unfor-
tunately, they were as cruel as they were brave, and animated
with undying hatred against the Spaniards, they more than
once dishonoured their victories. Finally, Montbars, surnamed
the Exterminator, pillaged Vera-Cruz in 1683 ; he was the last of
the great filibusters.

TORTOISE ISLAND. 105

I was in the midst of my reveries, and as the sun rose above
the horizon, I sav/ the plain stretching at my feet display its
healthy and varied vegetation. Suddenly a rustling of leaves
and sound of broken branches was heard. I got up, expecting
to see some animal make its appearance ; but it was no other
than the prisoner of the Zampa, my enemy, the sailor Lambert.

CHAPTER III.

Return to the fhip— The captain and Dofia Clara— A man-ofwar— The
pursuit— Pristfuers !—Baudoin'8 departure— The spermaceti whales—
Campeachy — Lambert again — Andre-Marie.

I QUICKLY sprang to a tree, and stood with my back against it.
I confess I felt some misgivings, as I had no weapons; and a
hand to hand struggle could only show me in a very practical
manner a truth which I had not the lea o doubt of in theory :
the muscular superiority of a sailor's arms. Nevertheless, I put
on a brave face, and made up my mind to give blow for blow, as
far as possible.

Lambert had stood still, and was deliberately watching me.
Seeing me pick up a dry branch, which would have been a very
inferior weapon, he held out both his hands to me.

" I do not wish you any harm, sir ; on the contrary, I have
come to beg of you. '

" How is it you are free ? "

" I escaped this morning by swimming. The ladies on board
took off my irons."

" There," thought I, " that is generosity, which will cost me
■dearly."

Lambert drew nearer.

" I have done wrong," said he to me. " You can see I do
not hesitate to confess my wickedness ; but I don't want to go
on board a man-of-war ; I want to get my living. I mean to go
to St. Domingo, and take service on board the first American

]06 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOItLT).

coasting- vessel that wants a sailor, and to make tip for my
wickedness by behaving well."

" Does not your desertion expose yon to some severer punish-
ment in the future, than that from which you are now flj'ing ? "

" It condemns me to exile ; but I have got my liberty, which
I want, as I have told you. Besides, time settles many things."

" What do you want ? "

" A little money, a loan," said Lambert to me, turning red.
" I have some way to go before I reach the Cape, and the negroes
are not always hospitable."

I had not been thirsty since the preceding evening ; I was
happy at being able to tread the ground, and to hear tlie birds
warbling ; added to this, the penitent look of the sailor, from
whom I had at first dreaded violence, disposed mo to be com-
passionate. I could not help pitying the unfortunate creature,
whom an outbreak of passion placed in a position which might
end in a long exile for him. I thought I ought to give him a
little advice, which ho listened to patiently enough, whilst at
the same time on the qui vive for the slightest sound. Ho
was afraid that his escape was perceived ; that the captain in
his wrath would have a search made for him. A sharp whistle
was heard. I ended my lecture by giving the sailor my purse,
which contained five pounds. He pressed my hand warmly,
and at the sound of a second whistle darted off, running down
the wooded slope towards the valley.

I turned round to go back to the spring, and met Mathurin.
The whistling was for me. The last cask ought to have been
embarked, and the captain was signalling for us to rejoin the
Zampa. Mathurin did not say a word to me about Lambert,
and I took care not to speak of my meeting with him. On
reaching the crest of the rocks overlooking the sea, I cast a last
look on Tortoise Island, which I had no hopes of seeing again ;
then I embarked, taking with me a wonderful bouquet of wild
flowers for Dona Mencia.

It was about ten o'clock, and the captain, attributing the
delay to me, when it was really caused by the fatigue of the
workmen, accosted me rather gruffly on my return to the ship.

TOnTOTSK ISLAND. 107

I was silent; the most prudent conduct in dealing with an
irritated man, but my reticence was really duo to Dona Mencia
and her daughter, who from the poop were making signs Uy
me to be silent, and to go to them.

" Has Lambert spoken to you ? " asked the young girl
raj)idly, in a low voice.

" Yes ; ho is now in safety. Has the captain discovered his
escape ? "

" N©t yet," said Doiia Mencia ; " and we are not quite easy
about the poor man."

I glanced in the direction of the old salt, who, anxious to
lose no time in setting sail again, was busy giving the crew
countless orders.

" You would do well to go to your cabins, and shut yourselvon
up there," said I to the ladies. *' The captain does not seem in
the least humour for joking ; and there will be a tremendous,
storm when he finds out the prisoner's escape."

" Do you think he will be seriously angry ? " asked Dona
Mencia of me.

" I am quite sure of it," I replied.

" I shall remain, then," said Dona Clara resolutely ; " hi»
anger might fall on some innocent person, and I am ready to
answer for my deed."

" For our deed, my child," eagerly added Dona Mencia,.
kissing her daughter.

The Zampa had just left the creek, and, with sails spread,
was making for the open sea. The sailors were busy in the
rigging when one of them, perched on the topmast, cried —
" Ship in sight."

The captain sprang on to the poop, seized a telescope, and
scoured the horizon.

" A man-of-war," said he, after a steady examination, " and
she is bearing down upon us. If she is French, I will let her
have Master Lambert, although I lose another half-day by it."

Wliilst speaking, the captain had turned towards the main-
mast.

" By all the powers ! " cried ho, " where is the prisoner ? "

108 MY Ji AMBLES JN THE NEW WOULD.

The brave captain was the only ono on board who was not
aware of the sailor's escape. Every one felt a slight tremor as
his infuriated glance rested successively on all the bystanders.
As nobody uttered a word, the name of Deerfoot came like a
thunderbolt from the captain's compressed lips ; and this impe-
Tio"." call v/as answcrtjd by a vulue from the top of the mainmast.

" I beg your forgiveness, sir," said Dona Clara, advancing
towards the caj)tain with clasped hands and tears in her eyes.

The commander took the pipe from his mouth and stood still,
expecting an explanation.

" Forgiveness for whom ? " asked he at last.

" For the poor sailor whom I assisted to escape."

" To escape ! " repeated the captain, looking at the sea which
surrounded us.

*' Lambert swam to Tortoise Island in the night," said I, in
my turn.

" Not with his handcuffs, I suppose ? "

"I took them off him," said Dona Clara, with a slight
tremble in her voice.

*' Theii, is every one captain here except myself? " roared the
old seaman.

" No, no, captain," I said eagerly ; " you are the sole master
on board the Zampa. You have the right to put Dona Clara in
irons, and not one of us, I swear, will say a word against tliis
just punishment."

" By Heaven ! sir, this is nothing to joke about, and you may
learn to your cost that discipline is no idle word on board the
ship I have the honour to command. Who gave her the key of
the handcuffs ? "

"I did," bravely answered Deerfoot, turning as red as a
bullfinch.

Without making any remark, the captain began to stride
backwards and forwards, taking vigorous pulls at his pipe, and
muttering incoherent words to himself. Now, when two ships
are making for each other, they meet with incredible rapidity,
and the ship wo had hailed was already clearly visible to our
right. The captain examined her several times through his
telescope and seemed perplexed.

TOIiTOISE ISLAND. 109"

" Hoist tho ensign," said ho to a sailor standing near the
steersman.

In less than five minutes the tricolour flag was waving in
the breeze. The vessel in sight at once responded to our polite-
ness, and tho red and blue Kaiticn flag was displayed from her
masts.

" That makes all the difference," muttered the captain. " To-
the sails, lads," he shouted.

In less than ten minutes the Zampa's course was slightly
altered, and wo were sailing parallel with the little man-of-war.
Almost at tho same time, tho sides of the t ^..ooncr were
enveloped in a white smoke and a cannon-shot was heard. It
was an order to continue our first route or to heavo to and wait.

The captain, humming a French ditty, again carefully
examined his vessel, and then returned to his study of the
schooner.

" This fine tropical bird," said he after a time, " would like
us to give account for our landing. Unfortunately, I have not
time to satisfy her curiosity. They are too impatient to see us at
Campeachy. The wind is good, and wo are out of gnn-reach ;
we will make acquaintance another time. Leave the flag on the
mast, Mathurin ; if we do fly we are not ashamed of showing
our colours."

The captain's attention being thus suddenly distracted, his
wrath had time to cool down. He spent an hour directing tho
sailors and convincing himself that our speed surpassed that of
the man-of-war. This was an incontestiblo fact, and the captain
again hummed to himself with an air of satisfaction. Wo were
going a little out of our way ; but we should resume the right
direction again under cover of night, when we should pass
within gun-shot of the enemy without his seeing us. Thus it
was that the captain, rubbing his hands, camo up to Dona
Clara to reproach her for her felony, in a voice which, in
spite of his intention, was not very terrifying.

Tho young girl at first threatened with having her little
wrists handcuffed, had not much trouble in obtaining pardon.
One of Deerfoot's ears was lightly pulled just for the satisfac-

110 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

tion duo to discipline, and Bona Mcncia had to submit to a long
lecture whicli was indirectly meant for my benefit. After all,
it was quite a relief to the passengers and crew of the Zampa
to lose sight of the unfortunate Lambert from the deck.
Baudoin was the only one who had to complain ; his sentence
was pronounced, and the hour of his execution fixed for the
moment we should have lost sight of the Haitien ship.

Following our manoeuvres, the schooner tried to interrupt
our route ; the wind was favourable to her and she slowly but
surely bore down upon us, greatly to our captain's disgust. The
wind suddenly changed, and without the slightest hesitation
the captain ordered to tack about; and as in the time of the
filibusters, there we were flying before the wind from a ship
which suspected us of smuggling, and wanted to know our
reason for landing on Tortoise Island.

The Zampa was not a good vessel for speed except on a
certain tack ; but our captain understood his business, and we
took an infinite amount of pleasure in the chase which was
given us. Our excitement could not have been greater had we
been flying before a privateer; one would have thought that
certainly our honour and liberty were at stake. The enemy,
being better manned, was making more speed than we did, and
driving us towards the coast. What had at first seemed to me
a good joke soon became a serious matter. If the schooner
reached us, she would undoubtedly oblige us to go to the Cape,
there to explain our conduct. This would cause a delay and
a series of complications which somewhat troubled the captain.
For a quarter of an hour he regretted his whim, and thought of
making towards the schooner, in order to come to a friendly
imderstanding with the Haitien commander. But having
weighed the different chances of his plan, and being convinced
by further calculation that the schooner could not reach us
before nightfall, he determined to continue his flight.

Dinner was soon over, and returning on deck, we were
dazzled by the rays of the setting sun. Our vessel was
enveloped in a golden mist ; the sky was red, and magnificent
clouds hovered over the hills on the coast; but this grand

TORTOISE ISLAND. Ill

spectacle was lost upon us, as our attention was riveted on
the schooner. The little ship was still following in our wake,
and had gained enough on the Zampa for us to bo able to dis-
tinguish her rigging and sec her crew at work. When the sun
disappeared, another cannon-shot again intimated an order for
us to heave to ; to which injunction Deerfoot replied by dis-
respectfully putting the thumb of his right hand to the end of
his nose, while the other fingers were rapidly moved up and
down. This vulgar piece of impudence, practised between
sea and sky at more than a thousand miles from Paris, amused
us more than I can say.

M. de Monistrol gaily took part in the chase ; but Mr. Martin
seemed very uneasy.

" Bullets will come after the powder," said he ; " and who
will guarantee that one of their balls may not reach me ? "

"No one, certainly," replied the captain; "so in your place
I should take refuge in the hold."

This question of bullets, brought up by the rich banker,
(lid not fail to make Dona Mencia and her daughter rather
uneasy. I reassured them by saying, that if our pursuer
thought of saluting us with a cannon-ball, ho would take care
to send it so as to frighten, but not to send us to the bottom.
The truth is, the schooner had perfect right to lodge a ball in
the hull of the Zampa; and if she had not already done so, it was
because the distance between us was too great.

Night came on, a dark night with no moon, under cover of
which our captain hoped to make good his flight. He ordered
perfect silence on board, and no light was allowed. Towards
midnight the Zampa's course was again changed, and with the
wind favourable, she again sailed in the direction of Campeachy
at a medium speed of not less than eight knots an hour.

I went to bed late, and awoke with a start, at the noise of a
formidable report. Day was breaking. I was dressed, and I
hurried on deck. At less than two hundred yards, a little in
advance of us, was the Haition schooner, which this time had
just given us an imperative order to heave to, which would
have been dangerous to brave.

112 MT JR AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

Tlio sails of tlio Zampa vroro ono by ono lowered, Lut the
ship continued her onward course, carried by the force of
impulsion, and then became stationary. Half an hour later, a
boat, manned by six negro rowers, came alongside of us; and a
mulatto, dressed in an overcoat, white trousers, and l)lue necktie,
stopped on our deck. The new comer, of gigantic stature, wore
an immense epaulette fastened on to his chest in token of his
position as lieutenant. lie came in quest of our captain, who at
this moment was deep in thought and visibly annoyed.

A glass of rum was offered to the Ilaitien officer, who, after
having helped himself to a second tumblerful, unceremoniously
passed the bottle to his sailors. Vic could see from the poop
all that was going on on board the man-of-war, whoso half-
naked crew were in their turn watching us with no small
curiosity.

The captain of the schooner was a negro. Near him stood a
European, dressed in Englisli uniform. They had taken us for
1 slave-ship, and it was a question of reconducting us to
Tortoise Island to make inquiries. As a consolation, the
lieutenant, showing his white teeth, toid mo that I should have
for my prison the palace built by the sistci of Napoleon Paulino
Bonaparte, then the wife of General Leclere, when the latter,
at the head of twenty thousand men, who were soon brought
low by the fatal climate, tried, in 1802, to restore St. Domingo
to French dominion.

Just as they were returning to the boat which was to take
off our captain, he suddenly gave orders for Baudoin to be
embarked. The unfortunate guest of the long-boat, disturbed
by such unusual proceedings, began to utter such shrill cries,
that a certain amount of agitation was visible on board th©
strange vessel.

" They will think that we are killing their lieutenant, and
will fire upon us ! " cried Mr, Martin, in a state of alarm.

Fortunately, nothing of the kind happened; and in less than
an hour after his departure, our captain came back triumphant.
Baudoin had served as ransom for us. The gift of his elegant,
person compensated, in the eyes of the commandant, for the

TORTOISE ISLAND. 113

infraction of maritime laws wo had committed, in landing where
there was no port opened to commerce.

" Ah, well ! " said a voice ; " I should have been sorry to
have seen poor piggy killed."

'J^he speaker was Dcerfoot, and the poor piggy alluded to was
Baudoin, who passed a sad quarter of an hour, judging from tho
cries carried back to us by tho breeze.

The ZarnjMi's sails were unfurled, the crew of the Ilaitien
vessel gave three hurrahs, the French and Ilaitien flags were
hoisted as a polite farewell, and, towards nine o'clock in the
morning, we had lost sight of tho schooner and the coast of
Tortoise Island.

A fortniglit after this adventure, without any other incident
worth notice occurring, except meeting with two sperm-whales,
we were sailing in Campeachy Sound. .

At last wo entered the harbour of Campeachy, where
European ships come in quest of the precious wood so valuable
in dyeing.

Campeachy did not escape tho marauding attacks of tho
filibusters of Tortoise Island, who pillaged it twice ; it then
had an extensive commerce in wax, which at the present day is
much diminished.

I was obliged to go to Tabasco in a coasting vessel, and tho
day following our arrival I reluctantly parted with my fellow-
travellers. But see what human greatness amounts to! A
letter from Dona Mencia, announcing that she and her daughter
had arrived safely at Merida, informed me at the same time that
M. Simeon do Monistrol was a clerk in a dry goods store, who
had an opening offered him by one of tho best houses in Merida,
and that the banker, Mr. Martin, exercised the honourable
functions of head steward. I now understood our captain's sly
smiles, who, knowing the social position of these two gentlemen,
chuckled to himself at their pretentions to nobility, their grand
disdainful airs, and their visible contempt for us.

Years passed on. One evening, when at New Orleans, I was
sitting in a small tavern near tho harbour, where I had been
taken to taste a plate of fried oysters, the national dish of tho

114 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

capital of Louisiana, when a sailor entered, and directly he saw
me, came up to me. I had already recognized Lambert.

" How glad I am to see you again, sir," said he, holding out
his hand to me. *' How is it that I have happened to find you
here ?"

I answered his question, and motioned to him to take a seat
near me.

" Have you made your fortune ? " I asked him.

" No, but I have earned a good deal of money ; for the
Americans, who are in want of sailors, pay much higher wages
than our shipowners. But my foolish freak made me, and still
makes me, very wretched."

" How is that ? "

•' For two years I have been dreadfully home-sick. I would
give anything to see France again, but I dare not show my face
there. Nothing enlivens me, sir; I feel low-spirited and have
no appetite. The doctor on board says that I suffer from
melancholy. I am home-sick, I know that, and I can't get
over it."

Lambert spoke in a dejected tone, and, suddenly bursting
into tears, refused the oysters and beer which I had ordered for
him. I was deeply touched. He possessed excellent certificates
from the American captains under whom he had served. So the
following day I set to wtrk. Seconded by the lieutenant of
the French man-of-wa: stationed at New Orleans, I was
fortunate enough to obtain pardon for the deserter, with only a
slight penalty.

*' By-the-by," I asked, whilst accompanying him to the
vessel which was to take him back to his country, "do you
know what has become of Deerfoot ? "

" Little Jack ? Ho is dead, sir ; died from the yellow fever.
Poor Jack ! it was his example that made a better man of mo.
For two years I have forwarded to his widowed mother a sum
equal to what her son would have gained. I never thought to
see you again, and I gave the poor woman the money you
lent me."

I pressed Lambert's hand, and saddened by the news I had

TORTOISE ISLAND. 115

just heard, returned on shore. The memory of the little cabin-
boy had done mo good as well as the rough sailor. Whenever
I have anything to find fault with in my fello^v-creatures, I
think of the generous child, whose coffin is rocked beneath the
waves, and for his sake I forgive or forget.

A WATERSPOUT AT SEA.

-•«*■

St. .Thomas — The Eeverend Mr. Smith — The waterspout at sea — A wish

realized — Fears calmed.

A FORTNIGHT after leaving Southampton, on the 17th of June,
180 — , the fine English steamer, Magdalena, sighted the
Island of St. Thomas. This is about one of the longest
passages that steamers make without calling anywhere ; thus
their supply of coals becomes exhausted. Passing between
two hills crowned with forts, we were saluted by the garrison,
composed of a score of Danish soldiers, and we found ourselves
in a kind of chasm formed by jierpcndicular rocks. At the
bottom of this chasm the houses of the town were built in five
rows, in the shape of an amphitheatre. Europeans landing for
the first time on American soil go into raptures at the sight of
the stunted palm-trees Avhich grow on this stony soil, barren
enough in reality.

St. Thomas Island is only about two leagues in extent, and
possesses no other drinkable water than that which falls from
the sky during the storms. It is, nevertheless, the centre of an
important and extensive commerce, for the Danes have made it
a free port. It is to this island that the merchants of St,
Domingo, Cuba, Jamaica, Guadeloupe, Barbadoes, Trinidad, in
a word, all the West luJian islands, come in search of European
merchandise.

Whilst the Magdalena was taking in her supply of coal, I
visited the town, which had been recently shaken by a violent
cj.rth(|uake. With the exception of the quay, which runs along

A WATEH SPOUT AT SEA. 117

in front of the sea-shore, the streets of St. Thomas are only
accessible by narrow flights of steps. Negroes and mulattos
make up the majority of the population in these streets, and it
is a curious spectacle to meet at every step negresses dressed
in the latest Parisian fashions, and afiecting the manners of
grand ladies. There are enough caricatures here tc employ the
pencil of a Cham or Daumier for years ; in short, these ladies
play with their fans, in imitation of Spanish graces, firmly
believing themselves models of elegance.

The day following our putting into port, the Magdalena
again continued her route, carrying with her several new
passengers, among whom were a Spanish pilot who was to take
us to the Havannahs, and a Protestant clergyman who was going
to Jamaica. I had dined with him the evening before, in the
same hotel ; he p-^ioke French very well, and I was glad to have
him as my cabin companion.

It was daybreak at half-past five. The eastern sky was
streaked with fiery red, and for a quarter of an hour it seemed
as though we were sailing through a sea of blood. The atmo-
sphere was heavy. Not a wave disturbed the surface of the
slumbering sea ; not a breath of the wind which every morning
freshened, in some degree, the burning soil of the Island of
St. Thomas was to be felt.

"We are now on the coasts where waterspouts are almost
daily occurrences," said the Reverend Mr. Smith to me ; " never-
theless, this is the fifth time that I have sailed in these waters,
and I have never once happened to see them disturbed by the
least storm."

"Neither have I," I replied; "and I consider myself all
the more fortunate."

"A waterspout at sea," resumed the pastor, "must be a
marvellous spectacle ! One of my friends assured me yesterday
that he had never left St. Thomas without seeing one in the
distance. lie will be disappointed to-day, for that is his ship
following in our wake."

The sun rose in gorgeous splendour in the clear azure sky;
the sea lay before us like a vast sheet of glass ; not a cloud to

118 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

be seen, not a breath of wind. The sails of a small schooner
lying to our left, were hanging limp against the masts.

I followed my companion to our cabin, to help him arrange
his luggage, and then we were summoned to breakfast.

All at once the wheels of our steamer ceased turning. : ?>

" They are going to sound," said the clergyman to me.

" It is neither the place nor the time," I replied. " I am in-
clined to think that there is something amiss with the engine."

We hurried on deck. The sea was still calm, and there was
no breeze. I saw the captain standing at the bows with his
telescope in his hand, and the crew grouping round him. On
examining the horizon from tlie starboard side, I thought I saw
foam-crested waves, and a thin black column rising ujiwards
to the sky.

" What is it ? " I asked of a sailor.

" A waterspout ! " he replied, pointing to the western
horizon.

The clergyman seized my arm, and our eyes were riveted
on the thin column, looking in the distance like a gigantic mast.
A sudden squall filled the sails of the schooner, which, taken
by surprise, lay on her side. She did not right herself until a
sharp gust of wind covered our deck with a fine rain, carrying
away some of our rigging. A low, rumbling sound was heard,
and the column, which grew larger as it became more distinctly
visible, rapidly approached us. The sea grew rough, and the
deck was covered with flakes of foam. The schooner had
reefed her sails. We saw her rising and sinking, leaning some-
times to the right and sometimes to the left, and tossing about
like a nutshell ; whilst the terrible column, now like two
funnels placed end to end, came steadily onwards.

All the steamer's crew — officers, sailors, engineers, stokers,
stewards — were on deck, whilst most of the passengers had
taken refuge in their cabins, especially the ladies, whose sobs
and frightened screams seemed to increase the horror of the
terrible shipwreck to which we were apparently condemned.

" Why do they not fire the guns to break down that pillar
of water ? " asked the clergyman of a sailor.

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A WATERSPOUT AT SEA. 119

"Our guns are good enough for Hignals, but they have no
calibre to bo of any use in this ease," replied the latter.

" Why don't we tack about? "

" What would be the good of that ? The waterspout would
go as far in a minute as we could go in an hour."

" But if it reaches us we arc lost ! "

"Yes, unless God comes to our help," replied the sailor in
a serious tone.

The clergyman turned pale, but repeated a psalm in a steady
voice. Almost at the same moment we were lashed in the face,
and almost blinded by a body of water which rose at a few
cables' length from the Magdalena. The thin, barely formed
column of water dashed against the steamer's poop, broke away
part of the bulwarks, tumbled us over each other, and then
continued its furious course. There were now two waterspouts
in view. The sun hid itself; the sea and the sky were the
colour of steel. We were in semi-darkness, deafened by the roar
of the wind and the dashing of the billows. Suddenly the two
funnels separated: one sank down, whilst the other seemed to
rise into the clouds. For two minutes, which seemed to us all
like a century, we were plunged in black darkness and drenched
by a deluge of water. For my part, I thought my last hour
had come; I seemed to feel the steamer sinking into the sea,
and the waves closing over us. Light came back gradually,
revealing our piteous condition as we stood on deck — livid,
drenched, dishevelled, and awe-struck.

"The danger is over," said the captain; "but, by Heaven,
it was a narrow escape ! Steer for the schooner," added he,
addressing his lieutenant ; '* I heard sounds of cracking which
make me think some harm has happened to her."

Our wheels were once again in motion, and we soon saw
the little ship ; she had lost her masts, and her deck was battered
in. Fortunately, the five men composing her crew were safe
and sound. Our captain offered to tow the schooner as far as
St. Thomas ; but a small steamer which had just left port speedily
came up to offer her services. Wo continued our route, and
an hour later were sailing on a sea as calm and smooth as a

120 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

mirror, reflecting the azure of the cloudless nky. Had it not
"been for the numerous damages of which the Magdalena every-
where bore traces, the temblc danger we had just escaped
would have seemed like a horrible nightmare.

"You are satisfied now, I hope," said I to the clergyman,
who was imbibing his third glass of orange water.

"More than that," replied he. "I am quite cured of my
fancy for seeing a waterspout at sea. Has my hair turned
white ? " said he, taking off his hat and showing me his head.

" No," said I, smiling ; " your hair is as brown as ever."

" Then it will never turn grey. Man feels very small
before such workings of the Almighty."

" You are right," 1 replied ; " but I confess I did not want
to be brought so near a waterspout to be made conscious of my
nothingness."

During the remaining week of our voyage, Mr. Smith slept
with one eye open. The sight of a small island, the masts of a
ship, or a sperm-whale, would make him turn jiale and uneasy ;
everything seemed to him to foreshadow waterspouts and
storms. When once at Havannah he recovered his spirits, but
he assured me that he would return to New York by anj'^ other
way than St. Thomas. He had seen a waterspout, and now
sincerely hoped never to see another.

CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAYANNAH.

CIIAPTER I.

Havantiah — Preliminary formulas — A good dinuer — In search of a

lodging — A restless night.

The Island of Cuba, called The Queen of the Antilles sinco
St. Domingo freed herself from French rule, is almost three
hundred leagues in length, and scarcely forty in breadth. It
is, with Porto liica, the last strip of the immense empire
possessed by the Spanish in the New AVorld; and even this
magnificent jewel is ready to detach itself from the crown
.so long without a rival. I cannot think without regret of
this beautiful island, which I saw so peaceful and prosperous,
now devastated by civil war, the most tc rible of all scourges —
blood flowing in the plains and valleys, in the forests, whoso rich
vegetation I admired so much ; the feet of horses, the wheels
of cannon, disturbing the clear brooks where I have so often
quenched my thirst. The first time I visited the Island of
Cuba, it had just been devastated by one of those terrible
hurricanes which, from time to time, sweep over the Antilles
and threaten to submerge them in the waters of the Atlantic.
But what are these disasters compared to those caused by
man ? What, for instance, does a broken tree signify — damage
which time will rejDair — compared with the ruin of the
Tuilleries and the Hotel de Ville? And then, however cruel

122 MY H MIILKS IN THE NEW WO It LB.

and implacable the rebel Creoles Bhowed themselves, they
had at least an honourable end in view — the attainment of
liberty.

But let us leave this nielancholj'^ subject, and enter tho
famous harbour of Havannah — a spectacle which greatly surprises
Europeans who see it for the first time.

Tho harbour of the capital of Cuba is only attainable by
passing under the line of fire of a fort, built on a rock, called
Moor's Fort. Vessels glide between two high, bare, desolate
clift's, and then, by a sharp turn to tho left, come in view of
the town embosomed in a hollow.

With the exception of the fort, boldly placed on a pile of
barren rocks, there is nothing at first to strike the traveller's
attention particularly. Two or three palm-trees with their tall,
slender stems astonish European travellers ; but one can scarcely
believe one's self in tho country so far-famed for good cigars, or
in the general entrepot of Spanish commerce, with her ancient
colonies. There is little or no verdure; the muddy water is
covered with thousands of white sea-birds. The sky is of a
pale blue, and a kind of vapour hovers over the town, of which
one can only get a glimpse. Strong sea odours impregnate tho
air. One feels saddened by tho dismal, severe aspect of tho
landscape. The atmosphere is almost burning. One thinks of
yellow fever, which makes so many victims hero. Tho cruel
malady has well chosen its place of resort.

The American steamer in which I had made tho voyage
had hardly cast anchor, when we were surrounded by numerous
small boats. Nevertheless, not one of the people in them dared
set foot on our vessel. They were obliged to wait for the govern-
ment and police boats, which appeared sailing side by side. I
had nothing to show the government officers. As for the police,
they granted me permission to go about the town for forty-eight
hours. If it pleased me to stay beyond this time in the capital
of the pearl of the Antilles, I should be obliged to apply to two
officials who could prolong my leave. If the fulfilment of this
formula were neglected, the police, horse or foot soldiers, had
the right to take me by the collar and put mo on board any of

CHRISTMAS BAY AT IIAVANNATL 123

the ships lying at anchor in tho harbour, whother or no it was
tlie one I had the intention of emljarking in.

What was tho reason of these strict precautions ? Was I so
formidable, tliat they thought my presence capable of turning
tlie town upside down? or had I such a suspicious appearance,
that the police thought it prudent to warn me that tliey had an
eye upon me ? Nothing of the kind. I was only submitting
to tho letter of some old regulations which for centuries have
closed the Spanish colonies against strangers. Thanks to friends
at court, Humboldt was one of the first to obtain permission
to visit Mexico and Peru, in 1803. One can understand tho
success of the stories and descriptions of tho learned German.
He had the good fortune to ajipear as though he had dis-
covered tho countries of which ho sjioke, and which stern
laws had kept closed more hermetically than any town of
China.

After I had formally promised not to get intoxicated, to
avoid all scandal, not to preach liberty to the slaves, and to
respect tho rights of the crown of Spain, they gave me a
little square of yellow paper. I liailed a boat, whose proprietor
was quite willing to take me in on tho presentation of my
passport ; and, ten minutes later, I landed on a quay, built on
piles — a construction as ugly as it was primitive. It was on
the 24th of December, 1863, Christmas Eve, that I set foot, for
the first time, on the soil of the town founded, in 1511, by
Diego Velasquez.

As soon as I entered the narrow, bad-smelling, ill-kept
streets, I was almost stifled by a sickening odour, something
like the emanations from dried codfish, olive oil, heavy Cata-
logna wine, and I do not know what else, which make a
Spaniard's mouth water, and sicken a Frenchman. I thought
that the houses had a holiday aspect ; and I learnt that for
a week the inhabitants of Puerto-Principe, Santiago, Fermando
de Jagua, Nuevitas, Santa Maria, and Matauzas, had made
the metropolis their resort, and that to find a room at an
hotel was a difficult matter. I had the address of a
French hotel given me, and at once made my way thither.

124 MY RAMJiLKS IN THE NEW WORLD.

The hotel, nituated in the modem |)i'onienatle of Tacon,
was clean and lively. Whilst waiting for dinner, I stood at
the door ; and about five o'clock, when the sun was disap-
pearing behind Punta Fort, I saw all the fashionable world pass
before me.

Now the fashionable world of llavannah — I speak from what
I saw — exactly resembles that of London or Paris. The same
coats for the men, the same style of dress for the women ; head-
dresses, hats, canes, boots, eye-glasses, all come from Paris.
Unfortunately, the public watering-cart is an unknown luxury
in this dusty Cuban city. It was the month of December, and
the heat was as great as in July with us ; dust and perspiration
mingling on the faces of the fair sex, ol)liged them to make a
speedy retreat.

One of the peculiarities of Havannah is the volanta — a kind
of cab drawn by two mules, the wheels of which, before and
behind, are ornamented with silver, and are of the same height
as the hood of the vehicle. On one of the mules sits a negro,
smartly dressed as a postillion, with gold lace, and prouder than
Artaban of his grand attire. Two or three young women, with
flowers in their hair, take their places in the carriage; the
postillion cracks his whip, and away they go, jolting over the
uneven pavement of the town. After having been a dozen times
round the promenade, the strange equipage brings the indolent
Creoles back to their houses. It is only in this way, or when
going to the theatre, that the fair sex of Havannah is visible.
The rare beauties that one runs against in the streets, are only
small tradespeople or servants.

Enlivened by watching this marvellous promenade, after
having conscientiously remarked that there was no lack of
beauty among the women, and that large, dark, exj^ressive eyes
are as common in Havannah as Mexico, I determined to have
my dinner. My countryman knew how to manage things well,
and my dinner, frugal enough, only cost me about two pounds.
For this I had neither truffles, blackbirds, nor a plump ortolan ;
not even a pheasant. Some chicken, a bottle of claret, a salad,
which I was told was something excellent, was all that I got for

emu HTM AS DAY AT llAVANNAH. 125

my money. At dessert, they offered mo strawborries. Straw-
berries in tlio month of December ! It was a tempting dish,
and I eagerly accepted it. In about five minutes they triumph-
antly brought mo some strawberries preserved in syrup. Judge
of my deception ! These strawberries, which came from Europe,
added another ten shillings to my bill ; and never, I think, did
I pay more for my dinner than on that day.

Living is expensive in all tropical countries ; but my country-
man looked sharp after his own interests, and did not treat mo
altogether as a friend. I thought it useless to exclaim against
the exorbitant price of the chicken and salad, and contented
myself with changing my (quarters. Four years later I was
again in llavannah, and allowed myself to be drawn into tho
coijuettish French hotel. It cost mo three pounds this time.
I suppose ono can hardly dine there now under live pounds;
decidedly a rather exijonsive repast.

Lato in tho evening I went to the principal square, whero
tho governor's palace is situated, and entered one of the famous
restaurants, which are tho luxuries of llavannah. There is not
a sweet nor a refreshing drink that these skilful natives do not
know how to prepare ; their restaurants surpass anything of tho
kind to be found in Paris or London, and tho coffee, ices, and
liqueurs are of the best quality. But I ought to say something
about Christmas Day ; and if I do not do so at once, I shall loso
myself — as I am rather in the habit of doing — in details, which
may be of no interest to any ono except myself.

I had dined, but did not feel any inclination to spend the
night in the open air, and I had convinced myself, by investiga-
tion, that all the hotels, even the small inns, were crowded.
Whilst I was lingering over a delicious ice-cream, and reflecting
how I was to get out of my difficulty, some one touched me on
the shoulder, and I found myself face to face with a Mexican
gentleman of my acquaintance. We directly began a tete-a-
tete, talking of Vera-Cruz, Puebla, and Mexico. I told my
friend of my unsuccessful attempts to find a lodging, and of my
unwillingness to return to tho steamer, which was taking in
her supply of coal. Ho offered to have 9, bed made up for mo

126 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

in his own apartments, and wo set out for them together. An
hour later, a sofa was arranged for me, and I took possession of
a small sitting-room on the ground floor, with windows looking
out into the street.

About midnight, feeling grateful to Providence, I had fallen
asleep, when I was suddenly aroused with a start. All the bells
in the town began to ring at once. They were silent at last ; but
a distant rumbling sound still ke)it mo awake. It was like the
noise of an infuriated crowd. All the dogs in the neighbourhood
began to bark. The noise came nearer ; there was no longer any
doubt but that it was a wild, disorderly, noisy rabble. They
yelled and screamed in a most unearthly manner. I ojiened one
of the windows ; and by the light of torches, carried by frightful-
looking vixens, I saw a disorderly band of negroes and negresses,
running, quarrelling, and making a din with tin kettles, in lieu
of tambourines. Never had I heard such a frightful uproar.
What was the meaning of it? Had the slaves revolted?
Several hundred individuals had passed before mo, and in
countries where slavery reigns, they would hardly allow the
African race to make such an uproar at such an unseasonable
hour.

The barking of the dogs died away after a while, and
gradually all was silent again, and I could only hear faint and
far-oif sounds. I had looked up and down the street, and was
surprised at seeing no window opened; there was not even
a sound in the house where T was lodging. But the noise of
revelry again drew near, and another band of negroes, running
in the same direction as the others, passed down tho street,
making more noise if possible, lieports of fire-arms were heard
in the distance, and put an end to my doubts — the negroes hud
revolted. I opened my door, which led into a passage, to make
some inquiries as to the meaning of the riot, when a fine
mastiff, which had sniffed at me the evening before with a good
deal of curiosity, now bounded forwards, and I had only just
time to shut my door again, and save myself from his rough
embrace. The animal growled, scratched at tho door, and whined ;
perhaps he «^'d not want to do me any harm, and there was

CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAII. 127

only a iniKUiulerstanding Let ween us. Nevertheless, I thought
it prudent not to open the door ; and so, there I was a i)ri8oner.

All was once more silent. A world of ideas filled my brain.
The garrison was numerous ; hut there were twenty -live thou-
sand slaves, and as many mulattos in the town ; and the white
people, to which party I had the honour of belonging, seemed to
me to be in a rather critical position. I lay down again, imagin-
ing that the governor's palace was being pulled down ; but soon
fatigue overcame my fears, and I fell asleep. A saucepan, sud-
denly rattled against the iron bars of my window, made mo
spring up with a jump. I heard voices and laughter. A woman
was striking a tin kettle, and ten negroes were dancing round her,
■whilst the one who was making use of the bars of my window,
tried to rattle them in time, as though he were playing on a
guitar.

" Holloa there ! " cried I to the musician ; " what on earth is
the meaning of this uproar ? "

He slunk off, rather amazed, and turning up the whites of
his large eyes, answered triumphantly —

" Me free ! "

Although a sworn enemy to slavery, I felt a shudder run
through me at this reply. How many lives had not this liberty
already cost, and how many more might still fall victims to the
treacherous slaves of Havannah !

"Has much harm been done?" I ventured to ask the
musician, who was rattling on my window-bars with renewed
energy.

His eyes opened wide, and, instead of answering, ho sang
a song, the words of which were quite incomprehensible to me.

" Where is the governor ? " I again asked.

" He asleep."

Asleep ! That is to say, dead ; undoubtedly massacred in his
sleep. I went back to my sofa. What could be the reason of this
strange riot, and how was it the soldiers of the garrison had made
so little resistance? There were se\eral men-of-war lying at
anchor ; Moor's Fort, and the fort of the Peak, containetl a largo
body of troups. Were they waiting for daylight to fire on the

128 MY Pi AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

town ? But no ; the rebels must have made themselves masters of
these places first of all. What a fearful catastrophe ! Towards
four o'clock, the noise having almost ceased, I again yielded to
fatigue, and fell into a troubled sleep, dreaming of the black
Haitien heroes, Dessalines, and Toussaint-Louverture.

When I awoke, it was broad daylight. I ran to the window
and saw groups of negroes everywhere ; not one white man
among them. I drew back again, and mournfully proceeded
with my toilet ; then I cautiously opened the door — the mastiff
had been chained uj)— and a little ncgress carrying a tray cried
out to me —

" Make hasto, sir : they are at breakfast."

I went towards the end of the corridor, wliicli, ornamented
with plants, served as a dining-room. Four ladies, a priest, and
my Mexican friend were quietly breakfasting together, waited
on by a fat negro, who at once attended to me.

" Have you been able to sleep ? " my friend asked me.

" A little towards daybreak, I confess it to my shame. But
tell me quickly, what is the cause of this ri(jt ? "

" The slaves are free. Did you not know it ? "

The Mexican, an enthusiastic abolitionist, and from his
bronzed skin partly allied to the conquerors, told mo this news
in a careless tone.

"What have wo to fear?" I asked.

•' Nothing. However, it will be prudent not to show
j'ourself much in the ecreets, in order to avoid insults, for
brandy loosens the tongue."

" Are there many people killed ? "

"Three at present; there will be more to-morrow. Last year
there were eight."

" What ! was there an attempt at rebellion last year?"

They all stared at mo with such surprise, and I asked my
question with such manifest astonishment, that it was clear
there was a misunderstanding between us.

Thus, getting an explanation, I learat that in observance of
an ancient custom, the slaves of ITavannah have one day in the
year of perfect liberty, and that holiday is Christmas Day,

CHRISTMAS BAY AT HAVANNAH. 129

Notwithstanding the warnings I had of the imprudence of
venturing into the streets, especially of mingling with the
slaves, nothing could keep me from trying to get a glimpse of
their curious proceedings. They predicted a thousand accidents
which would happen to me ; I should be obliged to take thumps
and knocks without complaining, or having the right to revenge
myself. I was determined to run all risks, and directly after
breakfast I set out, following a troup of negrdes, who, dressed
in their masters' cast-off clothes, were dancing and singing as
they went along. j

CHAPTER II.

Fraternity — Sons and daughters of kings — Abuse of saffron —A negro ball.

It was a splendid day, the heat almost unbearable, and one had
to think twice to believe that it was the month of December.
All the large warehouses and shops were closed, with the
exception of the wine-merchants, cigar shops, and especially the
spirit stores, which seemed to be doing an active business.
Negroes, mulattos, and quadroons, dressed in their finest clothes,
were strutting about the streets and noisily applauding the
masqueraders.

Having reached a large open square, my party suddenly
formed a ring, in which I was enclosed. I was jostled, pushed
about, and shaken, but I took it all good-naturedly. A tall
negro, dressed in very wide pantaloons, and a coat too small for
him, all at once began a dance, which, with its fantastic steps,
grimaces, extraordinary leaps, and contortions, I cannot protend
to describe. The dancer sang an African song, whilst some of
his companions joined in the chorus. Never did a more
discordant, guttural, disagreeable hubbub torture human ears ;
unfortunately, mine wore destined to hear a good deal of the
same thing.

130 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

They stared and pointed at me. I was an intruder. Two
young men of a remarkably black skin, more shiny than the
best polished leather, came skipping up to me. They were
armed with formidable-looking clubs, and began brandishing
them in a most uncomfortable manner over my head. The
skill of the two cudgel players was indisputable, but they
came so close to me that I began to feel uneasy. I thought
that perhaps these fine black fellows, whilst apparently only
playing, might be tempted to caress Etiropean shoulders with
their cudgels, and taking advantage of my good nature, might
pay off some of the blows they had received from the white
people. As I thought it prudent to beat a retreat, I wished
to do so as honourably as possible, and I offered the cudgel
players some refreshment. My politeness was accepted without
the slightest hesitation, and the clubs, ceasing their evolution.^
round my head, came down roughly but pacifically to the
ground. Here was I now walking arm in arm towards a spirit
store with two wretched slaves, and followed by the band whom
I had at first mingled with.

At Havannah as well as New Orleans, to associate with a
negro is at once to shut all doors of polite society against one.
I had perhaps chosen my new acquaintances rather thought-
lessly ; but I could never accustom myself to despise coloured
men, and I could mention more than one who, in intelligence,
morality, and goodnesc^, is far superior to many white men. I
had only to pass through Havannah, so it mattered little
compromising myself with the race of Ham, and I bravely
entered the spirit store.

It was kept by a Catalonian. who, seeing my followers,
thought at first that I was a victim of the masqueraders, and
ordered them to leave me alone.

I hastened to inform him that they were my friends, and
that I had brought them there.

" Take care," said he to me ; " these familiarities may lead
you into serious trouble."

" Do you think these poor creatures are capable of ill-treat-
mg me .''

CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. 131

*' They will not scruple to take advantage of any oppor-
tunities you may afford them. And that is not all. The police
are on the watch, without appearing to be so ; they may make
you account to-morrow for the scandals which you have caused,
and you will be punished for having exposed yourself to the
outrages of the coloured people."

I remembered the oaths which I had taken in exchange for
my passport, and as my proceedings were not in contradiction
to any of my promises, I begged the Catalonian to have my
guests attended to. The latter were unanimous in asking for
brandy, the only refreshing drink they cared for ; but my two
guests multiplied in some miraculous way, and I had a con-
siderable amount to pay the wine-shop keeper.

In exchange for my hospitality, I received the most intimate
confidences ; the women especially were open-hearted. I thought
I was condescending, and yet here 1 was surrounded by noble
lords, unfortunate princesses, the sons and daughters of
kings. The queens, of the number of three, were less resigned
than the men at the loss of their thrones ; and I only succeeded
in drying their tears by redoubling their refreshment. All that
these poor creatures told me in their broken language might be
true. It was beyond doubt that they had been brutally torn
from their cabins, from their native land, and their friends, and
had been embarked by force, and carried to Cuba, the name of
which they had never even heard, there to be sold as vile cattle.
They comforted themselves with the hope of some day returning
to their homes, a consoling illusion which I was careful not to
dissipate.

The majority of my new friends were negroes bom in
Havannah. They also dreamed of liberty, but they did not
complain of their masters, and the invisible chain which bound
them to a white man and a dwelling did not seem to weigh
very heavily upon them. At the invitation of the shopkeeper,
who told me that it would bo unwise to go on walking under
the burning sun, I rested in his shop; and my companions,
resuming their fantastic dances, continued their way.

My host Bold grocery and woollen goods, as well as wine

132 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WO BID.

and spirits ; and I watched the customers, from the slave who
had become an important housekeeper, down to the little negro
girl. These were the aristocratic negroes, who looked down
upon the masquerading troops in the streets. From time to
time a coquettish mulatto would come into the shop, who,
although herself a slave, spoke of the negroes with proud
disdain, and ranked herself undoubtedly with the white people.
Workmen, tradespeople, masons, and carpenters, came one after
another and sat down in the shop. They belonged to a master,
who for a certain sum of money allowed them to follow their
own occupations, and being skilful workmen, they often succeed
in getting a ransom.

I spent nearly three hours here looking on, listening and
convincing myself of the sad truth, that however distressing
the material condition of the slaves may be, it is a thousand
times better than that of workmen in our large cities. But
the subjects of slavery and pauperism are far too serious to
be treated lightly. I will therefore continue my walk.

Wherever I went through the town, I encountered the same
noisy masquerades. I came unexpectedly upon a fair, and the
grand display of paintings which struck my eye told me that
France had not the exclusive monopoly of bepri^fd women,
skeleton men, and learned hares, still less of ^iercules and
somnambulists. I entered one of the largest booths, where young
acrobats were executing their performances with marvellous
agility. Five of them, perched on balls, undertook a most
amusing race, performing a series of perilous jumps ; in fact,
monkeys could not have done it better.

I noticed that, with very few exceptions, all the shops in the
fair were under the patronage of Maria de Lao, who must have
been a celebrity, for each of the establishments declared them-
selves her true and only successor. I questioned successively
a negro, a mulatto, a Creole, a quadroon, and finally a European
about this remarkable divinity, and each time they laughed in
my face, thinking that I was jesting. Maria de Lao is so well
known in Havannah, that I could not succeed in Ending out
who she was.

CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. 133

I determined to consult a somnambulist, and I asked the
young person who went to sleep for my benefit, to give me some
information about the celebrated Maria, whose portrait, full
length and vignette, was everywhere to be seen. My question
awakened the somnambulist as though I had fired a pistol close
to her ear ; that is to say, she started up. They looked at me
suspiciously, refused my money, and I even think the show-
man mildly swore at me. An inquisitive person in Paris or
London, who asked a passer-by for the history of Punch and
Judy, would most likely meet with the same success as I did.

About five o'clock, tired of seeing the negroes romping about
in their grotesque clothing, of swallowing dust, and being
deafened by the screeching and noise, I went in search of an
Havannah restaurant. I wanted to taste the cookery of Cuba
in all its purity.

Th'' dining-room which I entered was neither luxuriously
nor meanly furnished, neither clean nor dirty ; and the persons
whom I saw round the tables looked like small tradespeople or
merchants' clerks. They gave me a bill of fare, which I studied
attentively, and on which, among ordinary dishus, figured several
which I did not know. I began by asking for a soup, which
appeared to me to be a queer combination of peas, tomatoes,
rice, and pumpkins, with very little broth. This mixture, if
well pounded, would have been very good, had the cook been
less prodigal with the saffron.

After this they brought me vegetable-marrows, dressed with
cayenne pepper, which was enough to set one's mouth on fire. I
managed to demolish it, thanks to the ten years' long and painful
apprenticeship I had gone through in the Spanish colonies.
These marrows, moderately spiced, would be very much appre-
ciated in Europe, but the saffron might well be dispensed with.
A slice of fillet of beef, garnished with rancid bacon, an
imitation of the French fricandeau, was brought to me. I
allowed myself to be influenced in partaking of this dish.
Seeing me steadily consulting the bill of fare, my opposite
neighbour said to me —

" Take some fillet ; it is very good."

134 MY a AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

And I asked for some fillet. I do not deny that rancid
bacon may be an excellent thing, but I never eat it without being
absolutely forced to do so. That which was brought to me was
so far gone, that I was obliged to draw myself up to prevent
making a grimace when swallowing it. Not wishing to look
like a simpleton before the waiter, nor to tacitly declare that
my obliging neighbour had detestable taste, by sending back
my slice of meat untouched, I ordered a hot sauce, which I
thought might neutralize the distasteful qualities of the bacon ;
but this only added fire to my already burning mouth and throat.

Having sufficiently hacked my slice of beef for the sake of
aj)j)earance8, I gave up all further attempts at swallowing it,
and contented myself with a wing of chicken. I thought I was
safe in ordering this simple course. Alas ! the chicken was
placed on a dish of rice, cooked, I firmly believe, in a saffron-
box. I dared not ask for a salad ; the Cubans would be sure to
flavour it with saffron oil.

I set out in search of a cafe, and the comforting beverage
soon made me forget the torture I had suffered at dinner. At
dusk I went towards the promenade, which I found deserted,
so I turned hap-hazard into ill-lighted streets crowded with
negroes. All trace of pavement had disappeared, heaps of
refuse barred my way, and the houses were low, dirty, and
squalid-looking. I heard singing in the distance, mingling with
the noise of a guitar and drum, and I soon came out into a
street where a series of public balls were taking place. I
was the only European anywhere visible.

Elbowing my way and being jostled about, I gradually
succeeded in reaching a low room, dimly lighted by two smoky
lamps. A young negress was performing an epileptic dance
with frenzied gesticulations. Five or six other negroes, seized
^vith the same mad fit, were noisily shaking leathern bags filled
Avith shells and pieces of broken bottles, whilst another was
beating a tambourine without any regard to time. The dancing-
t,irl, at last exhausted and foaming at the mouth, fell fainting
on the ground. They rolled her in a blanket and carried her
uway, whilst one of her companions took her place, and whirled

CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAII. 135

about in the same mad fashion. Suddenly, without any
warning, I was gently seized, lifted up, and carried out of this
dreadful den. I had unduly entered a private party. I was
conscious of my offence, and at once went off, without offering
the slightest resistance.

The miserable hole I had just been excluded from, was one of
the lowest dancing-rooms; and I soon came to another, larger,
better lighted, and filled with better-dressed people. Two
negroes, armed with cudgels, and wearing immense white neck-
ties, stool like black marble caryatides at the door of the
establishment. Emboldened by the ceremonial neckties, I drew
near; but the two terrible clubs barred my passage. I spoke to
the two Cerberuses, who only showed theii white teeth, and
gave me a fine example of incorruptibility by pocketing the
money I offered them. Whilst they were explaining to me in
remarkable Spanish, and with perfect Castillian courtesy, that it
was a private party, and that no white man, even though he
were their friend, as I pretended to be, was allowed to
interfere with them, I saw about a dozen negroes, and as many
negresses, dancing, twirling, and hopping to the sound ©f music
even more discordant and primitive than the first. Having
exhausted my arguments, and seeing that I was looking on at
the spectacle which I had no right to do, the two negroes began
to brandish their clubs over my head, which dangerous
familiarity I had already experienced in the morning. I retired,
thinking it unwise to risk further parley with these black door-
keepers, and I had the consolation of seeing them refuse
admittance to a mulatto who they thought was not well enough
dressed. Are there, then, social distinctions among slaves?
Man is bom a despot.

I am obstinate, and I succeeded in squeezing among a crowd
through the door of another mixed establishment. The hambula
were performing their escapades, whilst at the same time a
very well-executed square dance was going on ; the different
music made a frightful discord, which did not seem to disturb
the dancers in the least. Sometimes the whole room joined in
the chorus of a song in honour of Maria de Lao. I had found

136 MT a AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

such a comfortable place in a dark corner, that I ventured to sit
down, and was innocently enjoying the forbidden fruit, when I
saw two soldiers, led by a mulatto, making their way up to mo.
The soldiers were no mere lookers on, for they wore their
muskets, the butt-ends of which came down sharply at my feet.

"You have no business here," said one of them to me;
" follow us, if you please."

The music had ceased, the dancers were interrupted, and
every one was staring at us. I got up at once.

" Am I committing any infraction of the laws of the
country ? " I asked.

" Yes," replied the soldier ; " and the people by whom we
are surrounded, and with whom you are interfering, have the
right to turn you out as roughly as they like."

" I am a stranger, eenor, and I did not know I was doing
any harm."

In the street I found a police-sergeant, who asked for my
name ; instead of which, I showed him my passport.

" What mad spirit could have possessed you to go into such
a wa^p s nest ? " said the under-ofificer to me. " People of your
class do not usually come into these quarters, where you are not
safe even in daylight."

I explained as well as I could, that I liked to see everything
in the countries I visited, high as well as low life.

" You may thank God that you are still alive," said the
sergeant to me ; ' and remember that he who goes in search of
wool often gets shorn. "Where do you want us to take you ? "

" It is not worth while troubling you, sir ; I am going back
on board the steamer in which I came here, and which leaves
to-morrow."

At a sign from their principal, five or six soldiers surrounded
me, obliging me to walk between them. The sergeant gave me
no more answers to my questions, and even imposed silence
on me. I was a prisoner, but, strong in my innocence, was
preparing the explanation of my actions, to give the officer
before whom they might take me.

We went through the town, more deserted and silent as we

CHRISTMAS DAY AT II AV AN NAIL 137

approached the aristocratic parts, replying to the qui vive of the
sentinels whom we met. On reaching the harbour, a boatman
was hailed, and received an order to take me to the ship to
which I belonged. The sergeant bowed politely to me, wished
me adieu, and, turning back with his men, was soon out of
sight, whilst I was carried back to the Solent.

I stood gazing for half an hour on the sleeping town, from
which rose a subdued murmur of sounds. The palm trees stood
out clear against the star-lit sky, and now and then the sound
of a guitar, wafted over the water, struck my ear. The hour,
announced by the deep-toned bells of the clock tower, was
hailed by the sentinels on the forts with a garde a vovs, whicli,
repeated from distance to distance, made one think of customs
long gone by. In short, Havannah, with its commerce, pleasures,
activity, luxury, and vices, would be a most agreeable town
were it not for the terrible yellow fever which is constantly
throwing a veil of mourning over the whole island.

The following day, when I went up on deck, wo were out of
the channel, and the town was already invisible. Black vultures,
of a smaller species than those of Mexico, were hovering over
the bay, and the cannons of fort del Mora shone in the sun-
light. On a promontory to the right, might be seen a mansion
shaded by palm trees, a magnificent building, which was soon to
be destroyed by a formidable hurricane. All the mo-r-ning we
were continually passing Spanish, American, and English
vessels, on their way to Havannah. By breakfast time, the
island was lost in a mist, and my adventures of che preceding
day seemed to me like a dream.

FROM hayan:n'ah to :^ew oelea:n^s.

CHAPTEE I.

Departure from Havannah — The slavery questiou — The Gulf Stream — The
Mississippi — A kidnapping business.

Although Havannah is but a commercial town, with narrow,
winding, and dirty streets, the tourist, after a month's sojourn
here, does not leave without regret. By what secret ties the
capital of Culwi attaches itself thus to the hearts of its visitors,
is a question I cannot pretend to answer. I must confess,
however, that it wa» not without a real feeling of regret that,
ou the 10th of April, 1H<» — , leaving th«' Pearl of the AntilleM for
the Hecon<l time, 1 went on board the American steamer bound
for New OrlefttiN.

Tlu; Mun M't juMt ait the am;hor, yielding to tii»ift)rt« of the
I. waa iM-uv' •! tu itn plaee on tlie fk^'k of tha TmeoM, and
iter to liUTty. I^f«>re Vfn\f;, tlit? nc^rew, twliug th<)
•llfliMit ^1114^ of tim \my, diNturU^ Um- \wm%i of thMMMMb vi
, wImmj Wift, whitiiih. tfiMi^MWit SmAvim mada MMdl

y<irt. thiMk I tmtmA Ummr^ tim tmmm, m fAm ^m i'»m\i of
VMiau. mhUk mi Um ■ ■ ■ wt, #1M kf ^ k« fii|« «r ttei
in«f(niio«iii MHMN^ iiMiirwt iik« • iif7 furaaiw.

UiM «# wjr Mkm' UmmOmK **mmmi It m m mt, mmm mp

FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 139

first time, and I am comparing my impressions then to those
which I now feel."

" May I, without indiscretion, ask you the result of that
comparison ? "

" I have come to the conclusion that it is a fine thing to be
only twent}', if it were only for the reason that at that age one
thinks one's self master of the future."

The general shook his grey head.
" Nonsense," said he. " Age is more in disposition than in
reality. You seem to me very melancholy for a Frenchman."

" Fortunately, I only feel so at certain times ; but the
generous dreams of youth are worth a feeling of regret when
they have never been realized. It is ten years since I landed
at Havannah for the first time . . , ."

" Bother the man ! " cried my companion, gaily ; " he is going
to tell me his history."

" Nothing but a memory, general."

" Well, since the memory makes you sad, get rid of it ; that
is the advice I give you."

My coiiipuniuii walked round the upper deck, and then came
biick to me.

" I lay a wagwr," iaid he, " you were smitten by the l^eau-
tifal eyett uf th« Creoles, and that yuu thought you would die
from the terrible wound."

** Nothing of thai kind. 1 ^«ftiiit the ftiiiiMW {^ the tlaviw
wtm Wit tiif off."

" Go»*d ^riif'h*\i» ttMfl An«l by what nifaiwi, if yon pleMe?
liy th«* aiii of the \wu^ th#* Um^xm, *w the sworr!?"

" f riiitifl#^! .« ry iittl*'. mt king mi tlMn nt-grovi wwo ifluiiii
U» frHwikfiu. '

*' Ami jpua iiar« hM ^Mii Inmf ^^ Mid tiM yiwl, JWMitf

^0m wmk mmb: mi jwi «m4 «f K^ m^
** 1 ite& mmtt hmmmk «f it fill te tai iA»m hm

140 MT GAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

" You are seriously ill, then, young man," continued the
general, in a grave tone. " Take my advice. Do not go ashore
at New Orleans ; the air is very bad for those with your ideas,
especially just now, when the Northern States, breaking the com-
pact of the Union, threaten to subjugate us."

" I know how to respect the laws of the countries of which
I ask hospitality, general. If I happen to preach, I do not
address myself to the slave, but to his master."

" And naturally you lose your time."

" One never loses time in defending a just and humane idea,
in strict conformity to the laws of morality."

" Take care," replied the general. " I have about thirty
slaves, and I believe I am as just and as humane as you can be.
It is the name that deludes you. My negroes are my children,
and wear no chains."

" You are an exceptional master. But one swallow does not
make it summer, and . . . . "

My companion cut short my words, led me in to tea, and then
invited me to spend a week at his house, situated about thirty
miles from New Orleans. I had known General Dumont at the
Italian cunsul's house at Santiago, in Cuba, and had met him by
chance at Ilavannali. He was of French origin, an his name
mauifcKtly showed, and I very much liketi his frank, jovial
character, though it wah a little rough. I accepted his invita-
'*.uii, and tite evening waM i$)K'nt iu lititi'niiig to him talking of
Liv only daughter, Mitm Araljeila, who, liaviug betju M-nt U) a
boardiiig-Hchutjl at New York after her inotlicr'n death. wa« mow
finiiihiiig her e<lii<!;:tion at home, under the t\m%:i'um of a learuetl
North Aui« IK III \iu\y, MiiM» Angelina lb iid< tMiii.

The n* it (lay, a little bi^'foie dawn. 1 Mirolied al^out
wati-hini^ fm akB mtu Ut rim, whieh ia alwaym a tmm
mmmi^mnt iBufauli km Urn ^ lim. i^wU it fr«^l itwtlf frutM
tlx ^ithln tutnta, «i4 tlMi iMHuliag fiiHli, dtmA Urn t^try <«v««r
liMi h ». wliUfi Nii fat%M hmmm Ml vcvtlmlij mpm m.
tJirt mt ttim wume tlnw, ImmArhIi t^ fxiffM^MS mw m m t k Urn MM

FBOM EAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 141

to take a lively interest in the gambols of the capricious fish.
I went up to him, and although the commander of a ship does
not always care to be questioned by the passengers, I ventured
to ask him if he had any news.

" Not yet ; but we must have some before long," replied he,
without raising his head.

" Do you fear bad weather ? "

My companion glanced hastily along the horizon.

" No," said he.

" Are you studying the gambols of the porpoises ? "

" Not exactly. I am watching the Gulf Stream which we are
about to cross, and I want to ascertain its temperatnre."

Without further preliminary I took my place by the
captains side, and with him gazed into the depths of the sea,
where, from its different colour, we could distinguish the great
stream of warm water, which, penetrating the Gulf of Mexico,
between Cape Catoche and Cuba, washes the shores of Cam-
peachy, Tabasco, Vera-Cruz, Flor'da, and the Bahamas, and
then, following the coasts of North America, goes as far as
Newfoundland, and bathes the icy regions of Norway with its
still tejtiil water.

Whilst I was looking, the colour of the water, until then
greenish, Ixxiamo gradually deep blue, and the screw of the
steamer iM^at against l>auks o' funis imtanit, a kind of sia-wtjed,
food which sailors do nut despise. A (]iiart<;r of un iiuur later
the captain ^VkXu tho urd«r tu liuavu tu. Wu were iu the uiiddiu uf
tha curr«nt.

The trunk of t* jmlm in^i wiui swept rapidly \mmi us. Tb*
tPB^ksal treu wimld uuml \i\ni\y \m »tniiith'd on the c<M4it oi
S6glan<i. It WiiM thits tlitf iimifnunift of th( TiUmry, biirnt on
<fci ti— t of Ht. iMitiiitigodnrinjs tlttt irnvfii ymi« war, wmm UmttA
tm till II . mMiu^ u{ ilaaikmA.

HmnUMi stAlw tlwl hmrT*i\» of Ir • tAl wmImhI Am mMf
wku'h ft> I tm m f*mk mtmiij»§m Idtptm^ in Ahu * «!««« Hlw*

mtm mirmi4f^i im Um ismtt uf Itrnthad. TImhk' «<f^M. mttmA
kf llitt llnif immm, h»i iInw tmim ummmA tlw AUmm,

142 MT BAMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

of the Gulf Stream carrying stems of bamboo-cane, carved wood,
and corpses of men belonging to a particular race. More than
one dreamt of an unknown world beyond the seas. Columbus
was aware that bold fishermen, in sailing westward, had en-
countered covered boats rowed by strange-looking men. " That
the natives of America," said Humboldt, "most likely the
Esquimaux of Greenland or Labrador, driven by the currents
or tempests, have landed on our continent, is a fact attested by
the most convincing proofs." James Wallace relates, that about
1682 a Greenlander came suflBciently near the coast of Eda
Islpnd to be seen by the inhabitants.

The "aptain had several soundings made, and filled twenty
bottles \\ ith the water of this singular stream - water remarkable
for the quantity of salt it contains ; tlien the Texas continued
her route towards ^ew Orleans. The following duy, in the
afternoon, the sea became suddenly of a yellowish colour. We
were no longer in the (Julf Stream, but sailing through the
muddy waters of the celebrated Mississippi.

" You will now see a river rather more majestic than the
Heine," said General Duinont to me, with a touch of national
pride; "a river tlmt Ims a course of three hnndrtMl and thirty-
five mileH. and reciiives riverH still more conwderabhi tFmn iUM*lf."

** I tihall not m^i it with<Mit pride," I repliwl, ti«lopting thi-
Hlightly irotiinil t^me of my (u^mjianion. **Jt wati l4iiittll«, my
(Miiintrytii.-iM, who HrHt (txplorcd the t%t\\Tm' of th«i MiMMitHtip|*i.
the Houn'4 uii'i moiithn of whit.'h wer< </ii(i in the yumumttum of
the Frtii' ii, '

"lliiu.t.h' 11M MM «ifA 1 iMv tei IMmC 9M«t itel

fmt t^mutrymmn §mm%»*r\y i^ummX my o«rtijitry,** wwiwiaij Hit
pntMlvgiily. m{ i^^, ,, \^\,,v>-4i tint! tiii^ muh<\ ^\i(*mtM^
t^ Wm iMmn» wm ImmmM >" ^l> "i in 1717 t fumn

hwm him Ut Uikmi fiiftii— ii^. tlM^ «ii« wA kwm htm
m Um.\f xhn witriA wmAi MMig to ^mm iJt» miI ■•jr • whm i

FRGM BAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 143

" All the shores we can see, appear to me very barren,"

" They are, being marshy and covered with shifting islands ;
for the Mississippi diverges very much from its course before
falling into the sea."

" Is that another of its superior qualities ? "

" Not for sailors, at any rate ; they often mistake l^s course,
to the great damage of their ships. You are undoubtedly
aware that until 1832, the Mississippi was thought to take its
rise in Lake Cass ; in reality, it rises in Itacca Lake, as I proved
myself ten years ago. The majestic sheet of water which you
see here swollen by affluents, such as the Missouri, the Arkansas,
the Ohio, the Red River, and the Illinois — I mention the most
important — is twenty feet wide where it issues from Lake
Itacca."

We were constantly passing ships of all nations, with tlieir
flags floating fron^ tlie masts, making for the ojH)n sea, there to
disperse in a hundred diff«;rent directions. When night came wo
were still about fifty miies from New Orleans, and our (;aptuin
pace<l the dc'k with an uriiiUKy l(K»k. The heut waw ov«r|K)wer-
ing ; Mharp gUHta <jf wind (juickly lasln^d the yi-Uow watijr of th«
river into heaving biUowii, and thu Hky wai« gradually lAtyn'uA
with black Ntorm-<;hMidM. Hiiddi'niy th« Tt'MU, vtMiring round.
etiUn-A a bay in whi<h Wfnr two MthooniirM, mtnl » cry of «a>i|.
fltanmtion ('mninA from th<* pii»»i'n^n*rii wUim iht'V )umM th«
Mneiu^'fhmtH* linwiHind. ind kn* w th»t Umy wtt* <<*i)d«'friru^l
to b« Mltttifmary until th> m <rr*m.

If o iifHf tmpmi'ttui UK u! N*w OrUiMiM, Ml ] idmnlly m^M^fiml
thiUiirn tit mvtmu whirh wutiUI 4d»f(mr iMrri^tA ^ twmttf'i^mr
himrm. Mf trmv^Uu^ >vniiimuum» wmm \mm wmplimiil Tkm

»<« HUM « : i,f{0itf^U llMf (iifliAiiw • |>|iiifiwiii»jii «Mdb wmm^mmm

hm HaHMng U all i/ m* ttvtdl, km mfimmA m huuHm «i Ua4mtm mmi

144 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

water. Tlie air was full of ominous sounds ; angry gusts of wind
mingled with thS continuous surf of the waves. Flashes of
lightning almost blinderJ us, and at short intervals the majestic
voice of the thunder drowned all other sounds. When I entered
the grand saloon, I was dazzled by the brilliant lights ; the
passengers were playing, talking, working, and reading. The
contrast between this peaceful scene and the fury of the elements
outside, was singular enough.

Towards midnight I again ventured on deck. The thunder
was rumbling in the distance, the wind had sunk, but it was
Btill raining heavily. I went back to my cabin, and did not
get to sleep before two o'clock.

I awoke with a start.

" Get up, get up, you lazy fellow," cried the general, cheerily ;
" in an hotir we shall be in sight of the capital of Louisiana."

I rubbed ray eyes. The sun was gilding the glass of my
small port-hole.

"Now then," crie<l the general again, "you noe<l not be
afraid of putting on your Ijeiit thingH. Vou are going to land ia
a |M»pul<)iiH city, endowed with a bitthopric, a court uf juatice, two
thwitreM, aiul a m^mA of iije<li<ine , , . ,"

" And a ulavo ruarkfet," I iiit«Trupt^*d. Mniiling.

" Y<«," n-filiifi niy lii<ii<l. not in tin* U'imt diaOHMMMlf
"ofi« <if th(Nt«' niark(?tii not u, U toiind in y<>iii l!tiio|M hii int\*m,
wl»ir«- tlj< \»<*>i iiianti'rn fu'd f iM'fiM»«dv< i. ,t» tiM n,. If ■. 'if iri(|tiiai'
|pwipirt|i:. iiiMoit ttt wnraiila. wh<>, if iIm \,-tmt tkm% '%» tmm
ihat XJH'y tUt wti lili«,»t mitm U whiUt

\m fMMMMitlf tiitnka tbftt it m tlm whk* ^ t,. |«a>'it t^at nuMf
^im Mm ttb* rig,Ui Uj (mmmmmd, ^mm, m UMm Uum an kum^fwt

iWi Iw tti I iiiMiirmi «€ • ^mk4„ wA» . , , , Wm mm^ ttf tlMi

i W9 will teAt atttNit it afpMii a4 wf hmm» 4v«ar m hattlm «f

i §mmd ^ imk m Htm ■i a nwrr ak«iaii|r ^mmimi «iffe

4tt. I iMii mmmlj ^ ^akm mm hmak at «^ gpni «% f

i»ai|r

FROM IIAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 145

"When do you mean to have your luggage brought up?''
said he. " Have you forgotten that you are to be my guest for
a week, and that we n^ust be on the way to Messangere in an
hour's time ? "

I exclaimed against this. I could not pass New Orleans
before, as it were, setting foot there. I had, besides, several things
to buy, and four letters to leave at different houses,

"That is not of the least consequence to me," replied the
general, with undisturbed tranquillity. " You can make your
puj ohases next week ; and as for your letters, a servant will take
theiii with a note from you which you will date from Messangere ;
for you will sleep there tonight, as true as my name is Dumont."

"'' Tint "

'Silence in the ranks! I will show you an hotel where
you can leave your heavier luggage. In an hour's time — I am
impatient to see my daughter, and it is your duty to do all you
can to assist me — in an hour's time, then, I shall be at your
hotel with u carriage, and at twelve o'clock precisely we shall
bo at Mesrtiing^re. I have made up my mind for tliat."

** But once again . . . ."

" Wluit irt the good of lueleHs observation ? It is all jxjrfcctly
tind<'n»t<xxl.'*

And mt it wan. An hour later I Wiu Hitting lieMide tibi |pHientI
ia a fly whi<'h wan taking nn to hiH h(>ttm>. Tb^Tc I wai« in we» •
miracle of ('|..,1. iM-auty, MiiiM An»l»ella Ihimimt. and a well of
i«i. !!( < , ].<!!?- th«' name of Angelina: and I ^ffiin nmixmA that
1 Alu^ild tt|*Hmiiiy U' c^MiYince*} tliat the bill jMidition in life ia
tkmX of a iilave. wlMa (m« cSttiMit )»' umi^U'r.

146 MY BAMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

CHAPTER II.

Departure for Me'ssangcre — The unfortuna';e Thomas — The danger of letting
a dress get wet — A New Yorkist, and a native of Louisiana — A curious
way of getting a husband.

For a quarter of an hour we followed a dusty, ill-kept road, from
time to time meeting with heavy waggons, or bands of negroes
laden with burdens. These poor people, scantily clad, touched
their hats to us as we passed, which politeness I returned. My
companion, with a cigar in his mouth, watched me do so with an
amused look.

" I ought to tell you," said he at last, " that it is not the
custom here to raise your hat when you say ' good day ' to a
negro."

"I have always l)een of the opinion that one man is as good as
another, whatever is the colour of his skin or his conditiim in
life. Thus, contrary to the rules of etiquette i)erliaps, I always
return the bows of servants of the houses I visit. I should
be sorry to think that although these people are Mlaveu, they
are more polite* than I am."

'' That tine h|M'ech is not your own ; it oomtt from one of the
govemorH of India, who»*e name 1 liavo forgotten," Miid tha
g(;neral, Mmiliug.

" I confetiM it d(X>H ; but I think like tluM ^ofwaier, and lM«tng
nnablo to nay anything httUir, I re|j«*at hiit wordu,"

*• For g<j<MlncW naki*, do h'ttv< \>>tir hat i»lo?u» ♦ " ntiid the
liberal t^o mt'. MC'izing my liaiul jiMt hm 1 waM ^- ' ■ -, liow a^aia.
**AitiM>tigh f know liotr j^wacMU y<>u hold v<.iir uiu»unm," iukldl
hi', " jiMi iMiiiea tiiat i\u^' r. '>|»1« an- ii"f t'.'i< hjnir {!i< ir lu^a |o

ftM »»y MSf* tllAfi till V tf tt;. ."

**ik4 wmm l» mm ^am tkm vHhm, ilk^ ■^HfftHKi^^ii
fi ■iiim.il! Ai^ ■■■ v^iflii em nwiiKlaBMMi paj ley.

FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 147

I bit my lips. My host was right, as I convinced myself with
a little attention. Accustomed as I was to the polite courtesy
of the peasants of the old Spanish colonies, there was a natural
excuse for my mistake. I was the first to laugh at my blunder,
and I promised to be more careful in future to whom I raised
my hat.

The rich vegetation of Mexico was too vividly impressed on
my mind for me to show as much surprise at the beauty of the
surrounding country as my companion expected. The plants,
bushes, and trees which I had seen growing in wild luxuriance
were here trimmed, fenced in, and cultivated. But, as I have
since convinced myself, one ought no more to judge of
Louisiana from Now Orleans than of Mexico from the barren,
sandy, desolate coast around Vera-Cnz.

We skirted the border of a wood, and then turned into a
cross road, seamed with deep ruts, hardly wide enough to allow
our carriage to pass. After half an hour of rough jolting, our
vehicle suddenly stopped short.

" What has hap|)ened ? " asked the general of our coachman.

" It is ini[K>Hsible to go «»n, sir."

We alighted. A HUiall cart was lying acroKM tlu' rott<l Hur-
Tounde<l witli citHi^r*. baU?H, and parct-In, and an oiu un!Uirn<»M»H?d
liorse WiiH ••utit«'mpluting tlie diHsuttiT witli a nielaiM-liuly isye,
whiUt h«* N»l«ianly nuuicluMl a mimthful of gnwH.

"Ah, Thomas! jMj<»r ThumaM ! " Mtid a phiiutive vuico
near iik.

My 4M)i:i|HiiMiiii rail t^twardii a ni'M;r<i, wlio, w^UmI on Utn
ICrimtMl. hi»« fiM"** Wi<ldii) l>»tw«'ii hin Imwia^ wtm r»{M$»iitig, iti

** AU, Thoiii.ti^ ' |'<x.i Thotuan! iinlm^y IRhmmmi!**

^Atn you hill ^ ' ' pHMml*

••Ite/* fi'l'ii"! Ti*. .!..,«- ■ uMlly. "Mo, I Mti not

*fliyf tnillt im,mr, if v<«ti mnmi bm/m, tk/t Immm
Itm «ttrt tuMi Imm« diriitkiitfs. ¥bt pmmkt kmm hmm itkMtii^'

148 MY BAMDLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

was in exactly the same condition as the cart and the packets :
he had been drinking, and could not hold himself np.

" Plague take the drink ! " cried the general. " Here, all
through this booby, I shall be delayed getting home for an
hour."

" You need not have asked me for the truth," muruiured
Thomas.

" Come along, blockhead that you are ; try, at least, to
help us."

It was no slight work, setting up the cart and then piling
in it the cases, parcels, and small barrel ©f brandy, the contents
of which, in escaping, had wetted the parcels, the road, and
above all, Thomas' throat. Fortunately, we were assisted in
our work by two negi'oes who were passing by. As to " p)or
Thomas," he sat down and calmly watched us, declaring all the
time that t»ur efforts were useless, seeing that as the cart and
parcels were (juite tijMsy, they would only roll over again, us.
soon as they were put up.

For a trifle, the two negroes who luid hel|>e<l us undertook
to take Thomas t<i his place of detitiimtioii, and wo were once
more driving along the narrow ri»a<b During tli«' whole of
thin licene I had iMlniircil the genfral'M g<xidueMM and [Nitieuoe ;
Mud I tdd him »>,

"To Im- angry with a clmnkiffn man, would be Ut lihow
jronriM'If HM wetmeXium an he Im," replieil my c^iinpatiioii.

" lluw many laiihiM will the unfiirtunat'- Thuniaii get?^
I jMikf'l, •• Hiw cMCitiftatitf will doubtbtw vtmt him d«*Hrly."

" 'I'hiit di'fM'udM Oh hin g<'m;ral amdnr't. and hiN itimmU'v\
'iir. howi'Vi-i. an I I) - ' f.i. f.,!.! y«m^ w<^ <ifi iw<t walk
b<fi< AljMiliitig ottr wiii^jM iruui ngiil to hdt, am pmffAm ta

m '<> think. TiwHrt" ar^* law* in firalMl Cmmifff&mi

ti« ->««« aiijiintlr trNit4«i liir a brtttal MHiv, mm irf^ipi

** f i la. i^ Atf ^m ^ ^ i^ ^^^^^^ ^y| M^k^^^k ki

11/

,N/

■^'^' .^^

.^' C.

;:< .'i

^®

•r:

:r;^.

,wiijjrf)w

^ ^.

FROM HAVANNAII TO NEW ORLEANS. 149

" No ; but they are free."

" So be it, I suppose their liberty feeds them when they
have no work to do, and takes care of them when they are ill,
does it not ? But stay ; do not let us discuss this matter. Wo are
looking at it from an opposite point of view, and have no chance
of coming to an understanding. To you Eur >peans, the negro
is a man ; in our eyes, he is only a child — a child whose intelli-
gence will never develop, do what you may. If you can bring
forward an exception, I shall answer you that it confirms tho
rule, and we shall have gone as far into the matter on our
arrival as when we set out."

We had left the narrow road and were crossing an undulating
common interspersed with clumps of mimosas. Before long
houses bordered the roadside; and entering a fine avenue of
plane trees, we drove up before tho door of an elegant house,
built on a slight eminence, its windows commanding a good
view of the suiTounding neighbourhood.

Five or six negroes, and as many negrosses, surrounded our
carriage. The general was not expected, and his servants kissed
his hand with every d« monstration of delight, whilst three fine
greyhounds jumped and gambolled around their master.

" Where is Miss Arabella ? " asked the general eagerly.

*' In the garden, sir," answered a taP negro, dressed in white
clothes, as though to set off the ebony of his skin to greater
advantage.

"Come," said the general, "I am going to introduce you
to the queen of my little kingdom."

I followed ray guest, who, after having crossed a wide
hall leading into the garden, went towards a clump of pome-
granate trees.

" Hold ! " cried he suddenly, in a stentorian voice.

On one of the rocking-chairs so generally used in the
United States, sat a young woman, her eyes sparkling with
anger. Near her stood a beautiful girl, who seemed to be
begging for mercy for a negress, who, kneeling down with hands
clasped entreatingly, was threatened by the whip of a mulatto
standing over her.

150 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

The girl sprang into the general's arms, whilst the young
woman, rising slowly and majestically from her seat, said in a
voice trembling with suppressed vexation —

" Goodday, sir. Has your journey been pleasant ? "

" What is the matter, Miss Angelina ? " asked the general,
turning pale.

"I was exercising the authority you allowed me, sir, and
was about to jjunish one of your slaves."

" What crime has she committed ? "

" She has been away from the house for two days, and was
only brought back by force this morning. Besides this, sir,
I have more to speak to you about when I can see you
privately."

Miss Angelina bowed, as Juno might have done when she
left Olympus, and went away. The general at last kissed his
daughter, introduced me to her, and turning to the slave who
was still kneeling, said to her kindly —

" Get up, Manon. Is it true, that you wanted to run away,
my girl ? "

" Me afraid of Miss Angelina, massa," replied the negress.

" Afraid of Miss Angelina ! Have you oflfended her, then ? '»

"Miss sent me to town to fetch her beautiful dress. The
rain came, it spoil the beautiful dress, and me was afraid to
come back."

" There is a misunderstanding in all this, father," said Miss
Dumont. " Miss Angelina thought that Manon had let her
dress get wet on purpose."

I was greatly embarrassed during this scene. Not knowing
where to go, and not wishing to appear to be listening, I
studiously examined a fine shrub, until at last the general had
pity on me.

" We will settle thiu affair presently," said he. You, Manon,
go back to your work; and you, my child," continued he,
addressing his daughter, " go and see about the arrangements
for our guest."

" Did you build this house ? " I asked the general, who wa»
fiilcnt and thoughtful.

FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. l,'l

" No. My father had it built .... I have lost my wager
with you," continued he, in the rough tone he sometimes
assumed ; " nevertheless, I can assure you that for the last fifty
years not a slave — not one — has ever received corporeal punish-
ment on my estate."

" Had we not better let that subject drop ? "

" No. We should then be obliged to talk with reserve, which
for my part I am incapable of. I told you, did I not, that Miss
Angelina is a New Yorkist , "Well, now, if we Southerners look
on the negro as a child, our Northern neighbours regard him as
nothing better than an animal."

" Nevertheless, the Northerners are against slavery."

" Only out of opposition to us ; not in the least from con-
viction or humanity. There is not perhaps another part of
the globe where the coloured man is more spumed and despised
than at New York. This is a fact which you will see for
yourself by-and-by, and which will explain Miss Angelina's
conduct."

"A spoilt dress is enough to explain feminine anger,
general, and Miss Angelina undoubtedly belongs to the race
of coquettish Eoman women, who at their toilet would run pins
into their maids' shoulders, when the latter were not skilful."

My host led me back to the house, and I was shown into
a most comfortable rof)m, the windows of which looked over
the park. There was an extensive view; but, probably owing to
the season, the country'- had a dusty and rather gloomy aspect.
The sun was sinking below the western horizon, and the long
shadow of the house fell over a terrace planted with orange
trees. Suddenly I heard Miss Angelina's voice, talking with her
pupil. The two young people were sitting on the terrace before
a small table, on which a negress placed work-baskets and
embroidery. I was able to watch them at my leisure.

Miss Angelina, although scarcely twenty, looked twenty-five.
She was tall and slender, and had dark eyes and hair. Her
demeanour, although somewhat stiff, was not wanting in grace.
The features of the learned young woman were irreproachably
regular, and gave a severe, even cold look to her countenance.

152 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

Her dress, more elegant than coquettish, showed the extreme
care she bestowed on her person. In short, with her clear com-
plexion, her handsome mouth, black eyes, fine teeth, and long
hands. Miss Angelina was a perfect type of her most refined
countrywomen .

Like her governess, Miss Arabella Dumont had dark hair
and eyes, but her expression, instead of being commanding
and imperious, was gentle and lovable. She was of middle
height, graceful in every movement, and distinguished by
that languid nonchalance which in hot climates is one of the
charms of Creole women. Her dress, less strictly faultless
and less prim than that of her governess, appeared to me of the
best taste. The young girl's complexion was pallid, her hands
and feet were those of a child, and her face was as animated
when she was listening as when she spoke ; she was, in fact, a
French woman.

About five o'clock I was summoned to go to the general by
his valet, a young mulatto, about fifteen years old. My host,
still in his riding-boots and spurs, had just gone the round of
his plantation.

" I had pity on you to-day," said he to me ; " but to-morrow
you must go with me, and not be afraid of showing your
admiration. You probably know that one's own plot of ground
is always the best ; thus, my cotton is far superior to my neigh-
bours', although each of them maintains the contrary."

We went over the garden, I should say the park, for it
extended over several acres. Fine walnut trees were growing
side by side with their European brothers, somewhat stunted by
the hot climate. It was a whim of my host's to have trees of
both hemispheres growing together around his house, where
apple trees, pear trees, and apricots were overshadowed by
fine mangoes.

" I get pears, peaches, and apricots, which would certainly be
despised at Paris," said the general ; " but they are better than
none afc all."

During dinner Miss Angelina, who took the place of mistress
of the house, led the conversation on to American politics, just

FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 153

then replete with important questions. I tried at first to put in
a word, but soon prudently contented myself with listening.
Miss Angelina spoke well, and the general had not always the
best of the argument. I was — a spectacle as curious as it was
instructive for me — in presence of two compatriots talking of
their country ; but I doubt if Poland is separated from Kussia
by deeper feelings of dissension than those which divide
North America from the South. There is an antagonism of
race, language, religion, and education; the Yankee and the
Creole seem destined to hate each other.

We went out on to the terrace to take coffee, and there I was
presented to five or six neighbours, who had come to call on the
general. The conversation was at first on the price of sugar,
cotton, brandy, and slaves ; and then every one was silent to
listen to Miss Angelina discussing a medical topic with a German
doctor. From the topography of the human body the young
lady, by I know not what sudden transition, brought us to the
topography of the sky, where the beautiful constellation of
the Southern Cross was now visible. The visitors, the general
especially, seemed charmed to see me listening so intently to
their learned countrywoman. They thought I was astonished,
when, in reality, I was simply surprised to hear a young girl
talking on all subjects with the self-possession of an old
professor ; and I looked with pleasure at Miss Arabella, who,
inattentive and smiling, was playing with a kitten.

The next day, before dinner time, I had been all over the
Messangere estate, and had duly admired my host's cows, horses,
and cotton plantations. What most interested me were the
slaves' cabins. Thanks to the master's generosity, each cabin
was furnished with a bedstead, a chest of drawers, and a table ;
and the occupants, men and women, had a small garden and a
yard, the products of which belonged to them. My host's kind-
ness and humanity were manifest, and his little colony, wisely
ordered and managed, was a pleasure to see. Certainly the
comfort enjoyed by the negroes at Messangere did not reconcile
me to slavery ; but I promised, if ever I was obliged to resign
my liberty, I would choose no other master than General
Dumont.

154 MY n AMBLES ..J THE NEW WORLD.

The Sunday following my arrival, there was a grand dinner
given in my honour. All the afternoon cariiages arrived,
bringing about thirty guests. All were of French origin, and
spoke the language of their mother country.

Miss Angelina soon left the ladies, and began talking business
and politics with the gentlemen. Miss Arabella led her younger
friends on to the terrace, from whence we could hear their
joyous bursts of laughter.

" There is no use in my having Miss Angelina as governess
to my daughter; it is already too late to reform the young
sapling."

" Was not Miss Arabella educated at New York? "

" Yes ; at a French school. Arabella knows how to sew,
embroider, draw, and play on the piano, but she knows nothing
whatever of the serious things of life."

" I think you are unjust, general."

" Ko, I am practical. In sending my daughter to a French
school in New York, I committed an error, which I shall always
regret."

" Miss Arabella is witty, learned, and modest ; what more
can you wish for ? "

*' Can she be compared to Miss Angelina?"

" No. I place her far above that pedantic doctress, who has
nothing of her sex save her dress."

" And beauty."

" That depends upon taste."

" You are unjust in your turn, or rather, you are reasoning
in this matter with your French prejudices. The woman is
equal to the man, and the time has como to expect something
more of her than love of frivolities.

" Wo are of the same opinion, general. Women should be
instructed ; but it is going beyond the mark, to teach young
girls certain sciences before they are twenty years old. Your
slave ctastiser . . . ."

"Would you like to discuss the subject of 'education of
women ' with her ? "

" No," cried I ; " I prefer to declare myself defeated before-
hand."

FROM nAVANNAH TO NEW OBLEANS. 155

The dinner-bell sounded, and I offered my arm to the learned
young lady, who undoubtedly had heard my speech.

She looked at me Ironically for a moment, and appeared to
hesitate. Her large black eyes shone, hor rosy lips, half parted,
displayed her white teeth : she was really very beautiful. At
last she took my arm.

"Do you know," said she, "that an ancient law of my
country, which I do not think is repealed, allows the woman
who has leaned on a man's arm, to claim that man as her
husband ? "

I made an involuntary movement backward. The young lady
held me.

"Mr. Martin," said she, addressing an old gentleman who
was following us, " I a.sk you to be witness that this gentleman
has offered me his arm."

CHAPTEK III.

Moliere and the education of women— New Orleans— Scarcity of filtered
water— The Cincinnati and the Jacltson—BsxM on board— A guest with-
out knowing it— Conclusion.

I WAS somewhat embarrassed. Miss Angelina had evidently only
joked when she cited a law which in any case could not extend
to foreigners, and I had allowed myself to commit a deplorable
breach of gallantry.

"Did I frighten you?" resumed the young girl, with a dis-
dainful smile. "Be assured, sir, that if I cared about being
married, I should not have recourse either to force or subter-
fuge."

" You are too beautiful," I replied, with a low bow, " for ad-
mirers ever to be wanting. Who would not be happy to be
honoured with your hand ? "

" You for one," replied the young lady ; " for I have noticed

156 3fY Ji AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

that I have not the gift of pleasing you. Do not excuse your-
self ; it is reciprocal. You belong to a nation I do not like,
, particularly on account of its prejudices with regard to the edu-
cation of women. One of your classical authors — whom you
consider as the first comedian in the world, as though Shake-
speare had never existed — pretends, or something very much
like it, that my sex knows enough when it knows how to sew
on a button."

" Moliore wrote two centuries ago, before the invention of
railroads, the electric telegraph, and free women," I replied.
" But you are mistaken, Miss Angelina, in thinking that he only
accorded women the right of sewing on buttons ; he would have
them good, wise, and devoted. He even wishes them to be
learned, so long as they do not appear to be so."

" He wanted servants, sir ; and that is, in fact, what they
obtain in your beautiful France better than anywhere else."

We took our seats at table, and fortunately I was not placed
next Miss Angelina, which cut short the bitter-sweet conversa-
tion between us.

During dinner the young American lady speechified with
her ordinary self-possession, which, undoubtedly on account of
our national prejudices, appeared to me more displeasing than
ever. "With us young girls are perhaps too timid, too modest,
if modesty can be considered as a fault. The Americans, I must
say with regret, have certainly gone too far in the opposite
direction. I must also add that Miss Angelina had for her part
passed ^.he boundary in all points of view.

It was decidedly not the learning that I found fault with in
my fair antagonist, but the constant showing oflf of her own
powers. I am in no way <ipposed to women becoming electors
and eligible ; nevertheless, I have never been able to accustom
myself to discuss political or social questions with young girls,
who are necessarily inexperienced in these serious subjects, and
consequently talk nonsense at random. At New Orleans educa-
tion is almost the same as in France ; one scarcely ever sees a
girl without her mother, and on this point, I have some difficulty
in explaining the admiration which some Creole ladies evince

FROM IIAVANXAII TO NEW ORLEANS. 157

for their northern sisters. Simplicity and amiability are cer-
tainly worth more than scientific dryness, and a woman is
incontestably more graceful when she gathers a bonqiiet, than
whon discussing the merits of a candidate for the presidential
chfjr.

Ten days after my arrival I reluctantly took leave of my host.
War between the North and South seemed every day more
imminent ; and, in order not to risk being taken prisoner
between the two parties, I was obliged to hasten my visit to
New Orleans, and from thence make for New York.

I left Messangere without having regained Miss Angelina's
good graces, who to the last hour took every opportunity of
showing the pity with which my old-fashioned ideas inspired
her. As to the general and his daughter, I have the warmest
friendship for them and a very happy recollection of their
kindness to me whilst under their roof.

" Are you reconciled to slavery ? " said my host to me, is he
saw me to the carriage.

" No," replied I, pressing his hand ; " but I am reconciled to
masters such as you."

I kissed Miss Arabella's hand, bowed low to Miss Angelina,
and entered the carriage which was to take me back to the
ancient capital of Louisiana, taking with me the general's
promise that he would come and dine with me before I left for
Washington.

On the way I talked freely with the negro who was driving
me, and I asked him if he were happy in his condition of life.

" Very happy," he replied ; " the master is good."

" Do you never want to travel? "

" I often travel with the master."

" I mean to travel alone ? "

" I could not if I wanted to," replied he, showing his white
teeth with a broad grin ; " my old woman keeps the money."

" Are you rich, then ? "

"Enough to pay for a ransom if I wanted one," said the
negro, drawing himself up.

"And why do you not want to be free?" I asked with
surprise.

158 MT ItAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

" Because the master is kind ; and if I was once free I should
have to leave him and look for another."

" But you would bo free."

" What good would that do me ? I should only like to be
free if I had enough money to live without doing anything. I
have a good master and will keep to him."

This way of looking at things is common enough among the
negroes; but not so with the mulattos, who, livelier, more
intelligent, and proud of their mixed blood, dream of liberty
even at the price of misery.

It was noon when I reached the hotel where I was to stay.
I dismissed my negro with a douceur which called forth
numerous thanks, and an hour later I was wandering at random
through the town. . ,

New Orleans, built on the left bank of the Mississippi, was
ceded to the United States, in 1803, by Napoleon, who despaired
of being able to defend Louisiana against the English. Except
the cathedral, the old town did not appear to me to possess any
other remarkable building than its market, built after the model
of the Athenian propylajum, which astonishes rather than
excites admiration. The streets, cut at right-angles, have the
monotonous regularity usual in most of the Spanish towns of
America. The only part which particularly attracted my atten-
tion was the French quarter, not on account of its cleanliness
and order, but simply because the French language was exclu-
sively spoken there.

Going down a street which led to the Mississippi, I was sur-
prised to see a ship sailing, as it were, above the town. I could
not account for this singular phenomenon until I drew nearer.
New Orleans is protected from the overflowing of the river upon
whose bank it is built by immense dykes, and when the tide is
high it is on a level with the roofs of some hoiises.

In the centre of the city where shops, more of Spanish than
French or Americaa character, are crowded together, people
of all nations and all colours may be seen slowly wending
their way, overpowered by the burning atmosphere. One must
speak at least three languages in order to be perfectly at home

•A
<
W

a!,
O

FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 159

in New Orleans; one is as often addressed in Spanish as in
French or English, without counting the Creole patois, and the
jargon of the negroes, which to be understood requires a long
time to accustom the ear to it.

Following the direction of a cigar merchant, I went to one
of the best bath establishments in the town. The slave who
filled the office of bath-man, had skin almost as white as my
own, and slavery seems still more odious when its victims are
men in almost all respects like Europeans. Thus it was at the
hotel were I stayed — the maid-servants were quadroons whose
African origin required the practiced eye of the Creole to discern.
The young girls were slaves, and I must confess seemed none
the less lively on that account.

My white negro — I mean to say my bath-man — filled my
bath with a yellowish liquid.

" What is that ? " I asked, with surprise.

" Water," replied he.

"Water! — that thick yellow liquid, as frothy as beer?"

" There is no other in New Orleans."

" Have you no filtered water ? "

" Yes, sir, you have a decanter full."

" I want my bath full."

The white negro looked at me with an air of consternation,
raised his hands, let them fall, and then began to laugh.

After a short explanation, I learnt that at New Orleans
filtered water is only used for drinking ; and I was tempted to
ask, as did Diogenes, " Where is one to wash, then, on coming
out of this?"

In the evening I went to the opera to hear a young singer
for whom the papers of the town predicted the most brilliant
future. Arier the performance, I had the honour of taking an
ice side by side with the artiste who was to become the
Marquise do Caux ; then Mademoiselle Adelina Patti, a simple
debutante.

After having taken my walks along the quay for four days,
been present shudderinglj'- at several slave auctions, and dipped
five times in the yellow wat«r of the Mississippi, I began to find

160 MT li AMBLES IK THE NEW WOULD.

these pleasures monotonous. I had no silken goods, wines, nor
spirits to sell, and I did not want to buy either tobacco, cotton,
or sugar, so that I was completely out of my place in this large
town, the most remarkable monument of which is in reality a
mountain of oyster-shells heaped up near the harbour.

Is this innumerable (quantity of oyster-shells to be used
in commerce, or have the inhal)itants of New Orleans from
generation to generation taken an oath to put all the shells of
the oysters they have eaten in the same place? This was a
problem I could not explain. The absence of filtered water,
and the abundance of oyster-shells, are two of my most curious
memories of New Orleans, for which I must beg pardon of the
heroic city.

One morning, faithful to his promise. General Dumont
noisily burst into ray room.

"Well," said he to me, "and what do you think of our
ancient capital ? "

"It is a rather fine town, very rich and very commercial,
but the manners and customs are too much like those of my
own country to interest me greatly."

" Have you been over the American quarter ? "

" Certainly ; and the brick houses very much resemble
those I have seen in England."

" Have you visited the villas in the suburbs ? "

"Yes, although the muddy state of the roads is much
against any approach to the houses in that direction. I noticed
that all the villas were surmounted by lightning conductors,
and provided with immense tanks for rain-water, which makes
them look like Alembics."

" You are not kind to our large city, the rival of Now York ;
but you have friends here, have you not ? "

" None, except one or two acquaintances who are always not
at home when I have called."

" Would you like me to introduce you to one or two of my
friends?"

" No, thank you, general. I have made up my mind to leave
here, and to-morrow I shall take a berth on the first steamboat
going up the Mississippi."

FROM IIAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 161

After breakfast, I went out with the general. He took me to
several houses, where I reo'ived most pressing invitations ; but
I had decided to set out on my joamey again, and the general
insisted on going with me to the steamboat agency.

" I came with the intention of proposing a pleasure-party ;
fortunately, your resolution does not oblige me to change my
plans in the least. I . . . . No, I will tell you later on."

An hour later, in exchange for fifty dollars, I was in possession
of a ticket giving me the right to a cabin on board the Jackson,
going to Nashville, on the Ohio.

"Bo ready to-morrow afternoon at four o'clock," said the
general to me; "I will come for you with my daughter and
Miss Angelina. We will go part of the journey with you."

I warmly thanked the general for his kindness; and the
following day, towards five o'clock, we went on board a steamer
on the stem of which was written in large letters, Cincinnati.

"But I have to go on board the Jackson" said I to the general.

"The Jackson has delayed its departure twelve hours; and
the Cincinnati, which belongs to the same company, is equally
well fitted up."

" Must I not change my ticket ? "

" It is useless. Leave it to me."

Just as we set foot on board the Cincinnati, a band on deck
began playing. The ship was adorned with flags, and a
numerous crowd thronged the quay to watch its departure.
My portmanteau was disposed of in a comfortable cabin, and
I followed my guide into a magnificent saloon, where I found
Miss Arabella and Miss Angelina.

The general seemed in high spirits, and was continually
exchanging bows and compliments with the passengers of the
Cincinnati, who seemed to be all friends. I had heard a good
deal of the luxury of the steamers which ply the Mississippi
and its afiluents, but the reality far surpassed anything I had
dreamt of. Everywhere carpets and gildings such as are
rarely found in the most luxuriously famished houses. The
grand saloon was indeed a marvel of sumptuousness.

I had been cautioned against American roughness, and I was

162 MT Ji AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

surprised to see all my travelling companions bowing and
talking to eacli other like old acquaintances. The finely dressed
ladies seemed equally sociable ; in the saloon as well as on deck
they accosted each other freely and cordially. The general
introduced me from time to time to a passenger; they shook
ray hands with energetic warmth, and the orchestra continued
to fill the air with harmonious sounds.

A loud whistle sounded, the captain's voice was heard giving
orders, the crew bustled about, and the wheels of the engine,
placed on deck instead of being hidden away in the depths of
the ship, were sot in motion. A quarter of an hour later, New
Orleans disappeared from sight, and we were steaming away at
full speed.

I sat on the upper deck with the general, and the attentive
waiters brought us the thousand and one bitter drinks of which
the Americans are so fond. Every one was speaking of the
probable war, and each declared that when the time came he
would take up arms in defence of his rights. These were no
vain words. The Southerners have acted heroically in the long
struggle with their Northern brothers, and have always had my
sympathy.

Night came on gradually ; the steamer's speed was dimin-
ished. A splendid moonlight lit up the country, which was
still low-lying, and somewhat monotonous. A bell announced
dinner, and at seven o'clock precisely I sat down next to Miss
Arabella before a bountifully spread table. The ladies, having
changed their costumes, now appeared in evening dress.

Never in my life had I been present at a dinner of more than
a hundred guests where reigned so much gaiety, cordiality, and
good taste. I could not avoid, from time to time, expressing my
surprise to Miss Arabella,

" We are among fellow country-people," said the young girl,
who smiled at my remarks ; " and we all know each other, more
or less."

"I should never have thought that in a public place on
board a steamer, ladies were obliged to wear evening dress for
dinner."

FJiOM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 163

" It is a custom which you will find in all the large hotels in
New York."

"And that orchestra — very good, upon my word — does it
accompany the ship to her destination ? "

" I am not sure. But you often have more music than
you care for on board our ships."

After dinner the ladies disappeared, and the gentlemen went
on deck to smoke.

" Do you mean to go back to the saloon ? " said the general
to me.

" Yes, certainly ; I want to spend the evening with Miss
Arabella."

" Then go down and put on a black coat and white tie."

" Is evening dress strictly necessary ? "

" Absolutely," said the general. " There were a few frock-
coats allowed at dinner, but they will not be permitted in the
saloon."

"Then you are not free to do as you like on board your
steamers ? "

" Never on the first day. You will be free to-morrow."

I went towards the 'tween decks, wondering in which of my
trunks I ought to look for my dress-coat.

I was surprised to see the saloon already cleared of the
tables, and several ladies sitting there. I took the outside gallery
to get back to my cabin, and came upon a large room where
negroes, clad in the traditional costume of Figaro, assisted by
ladies'-maids, were dressing the hair of three or four fine
ladies, and ornamenting them with flowers. I had walked by
accident into a hair-dressing saloon, from which I made a
hasty retreat.

" There is a ball on board," thought I.

I was not mistaken, for just at that moment the orchestra
struck up a waltz. When I left my cabin the dancing had begun.

" Are we going to lead this pleasant life as far as Nashville ?"
I asked of the general, on rejoining him.

" You, perhaps," replied he; " but as for me, I hope to be back
at Messangere to-morrow."

164 MY a AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

"What I saw astonished me somewhat ; there were onlj' nice-
looking women, and well-bred gentlemen, and the diamonds that
1 saw sparkling, lookeJ very ranch like real. I did not know
that all Americanb were millionaires.

The dancing was kept up till four in the morning, and going
up on deck once, I saw that the ship was lying at anchor.
About ten o'clock the general called me, and told me to get my
portmanteau strapped. Wo then went on deck, where I found
Miss Arabella and her governess.

" Upon my word ! " cried I, " that sailor is carrying oflf one
of my trunks."

" Yes," said the general to me, *' you arc going to change
cabins ; do not disturb yourself."

An expression of such wondering surprise was depicted on
my face, that the general, his daughter, and some of my new
friends who were standing near us, began to laugh.

I then learnt what I should have guessed on first setting
foot on board the Cincinnati. A rich merchant of New Orleans
had hired the steamer for the occasion of the annual ball, to
which he invited all his friends, and through the general I had
been admitted among the chosen few ; at last I understood
my old friend's reticence.

The Jackson appeared on the horizon ; I bade my host, and
then Miss Arabella, a last farewell. When I looked round for
Miss Angelina, I sav.' her in the boat which was to take me to
the Jackson.

" She \v. going with you," said the general to me. " I was
obliged to choose between her and Manon, and I have decided
to keep Manon."

A quarter of an hour later, the Cincinnati disappeared behind
a bend of the river, and I took up my quarters in my new cabin.

On board the Jackson^ as on the Cincinnati^ there was a buffet,
a hair-dressing saloon, and an orchestra. Unfortunately I did
not find there either the style or the agreeable manners of the
companions I had just left.

At Nashville I heard of the attack of Fort Sumter. War was
openly declared between the North and South. I learnt this

FROir HlVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 165

news from Miss Angelina; she t>poke to me for the first time
since our departure, and was leaning on the arm of a gentleman,
who, more gallant than I, did not fear to expose himself to the
law which could make him the husband of the beautiful and
learned young American lady.

" Before a month has passed," said she, pointing to the great
plains which the steamer was leaving behind her, " the soldiers
of the North will cover that beautiful country with their blue
uniforms, and the pride of the Creoles will be brought low.
New Orleans, now boasting of her commerce, of her semi-
tropical situation, and of her pretended invincibility, will be
conquered, and forced to implore grace of New York, whoso rival
she calls herself."

" Are you not counting your chickens before they are
hatched? " said I, eagerly. " The Creoles are brave and resolute,
and they have justice on their side."

" We have strength."

" That is rather a questionable argument."

"Do you sympathize with the South?" said the young girl,
<lisdainfully.

" I do not deny that such is the case," I replied calmly. " 1
like those who like me, especially those who admire my own
■country. Now, the Northern States disparage France. During
the war which gave Venice to Italy, during the gigantic
struggle which covered the neighbourhood of Sebastopol with
bloodshed, there was not an insult which the New York papers
did not shower on the French, on their army, and on their
generals. This is why I am indignant with my countrymen for
praising America. They see it, and that is their excuse,
through the views of M. de Tocqueville's book, a work forty
years old, and no longer correct."

My words were imprudent ; fortunately we were surrounded
by Southerners, the majority of whom shared my opinion. Miss
Angelina shrugged her shoulders contemptuously, gratified me
with an ironical grimace, and then unceremoniously turned her
back upon me. I knew what a scientific arsenal my fair enemy
had at her disposal, and I was obliged to confess that her

166 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

silence, which seen^^d to leave me the victory, was in reality
nothing but ill-concealed contempt for my insignificant self.
Certainly I admire as much as any one the material progress
realized by the great republic in less than half a century ; but
as a true friend of liberty, I deplore its moral and political
corruptions; they surpass all that can be imagined. The
republic of Washington, which was equal to Home in its
respect for laws, is already nothing more than a copy of the
lower empire. Will it turn aside from this road which, sooner
or later, will give it over into the hands o_ some low despot ? I
sincerely hope it may.

Two years ago I learnt with regret that General Dumont
had been killed dxiring the War of the Secession. The North,
out of policy, and not humanity, as is generally thought, gave
liberty to the slaves : may it be none the less blessed for so
doing ! Miss Arabella would have been ruined, but when the
war was ended, her father's servants returned to her. She is
married, and Messangere is still in a flourishing condition. As
to Miss Angelina, she is a professor of medicine in a western
town, and takes great interest in theology.

THE HORSE-TAMER.

—c*-

The mouse-coloured liorse — Yankees and Texians — An accident— Alone! —
Don Jose — The wild horse — A terrible night.

Texas, although thinly populated, forms at the present day
one of the principal states of the great American republic;
it is an extensive flat, healthy, and fertile country, abundantly
watered by rivers with considerable affluents. The rivers Del
Norte, Las Nieves, La Trinidad, and then the San Jacinto, the
Brazos, the San Antonio, and the Sabina, offer natural roads of
communication — roads which will sooner or later make Texas a
privileged country, and perhaps the finest jewel of the American
crown.

Although Francis Lassalle, in the year 1684, tried to found
settlements in Texas — an attempt which attracted the attention
of the Spaniards — this magnificent country remained for a long
time abandoned. At the cession of Louisiana, by France, to
the United States, the young republic, already encroaching,
laid claim to Texas. In 1819, she nominally renounced her
pretensions by the treaty of Washington. But two years later,
Colonel Austin, having obtained permission to found an Anglo-
American colony, under the name of Fredonia, settled on the
banks of the Colorado, and there built the capital of Texas.
This first attempt at colonization was the beginning of the
movement which, by bringing emigrants of European origin
to Texas, ended in a proclamation of independence in 1835.

Mexico, on her separation from Spain, having annexed Texas
to her province of Coahuila, attempted to maintain her rights
by force of arms. Samuel Houston, president of Texas,

108 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

defeated the Mexican army, commanded by Santa Ana, en tho
banks of the San Jacinto. In 1845, tho United States having
admitted Texas into their confederation, a war ensued with tho
Mexicans, who, after invading their former province, were driven
from it. Santa Ana, defeated in several encounters, saw tho
enemy penetrate into Mexico, by which they lost not only Texas,
but the wilds of New Mexico and California.

Two years after this war, that is to say, in 1849, I crossed the
Del Norte opposite to the I'lesidio Grande — a settlement founded
by the Spaniards about tlic year 1610. I intended to go to the
llio de las Nueces, and then up that river as far as Castro-
ville. In order to accomplish this journey, I was obliged to
cross virgin countries, forests of oak, cyprus, and magnolias,
and above all, vast plains where immense troops of wild horses
ranged the country at freedom. The few inhabitants of tho
country, men of mixed blood, Mexicans by origin and manners,
heartily detest their new masters, and in their ignorance easily
class all white men under the name of Yankees. Now at this
period every Yankee was considered a traitor, and further
still, as a heretic, of whom it was a good thing to free the land,
whenever an opportunity presented itself.

Notwithstanding the warnings I received, I persisted in my
intention of crossing the plains, and I bought, for eight pounds,
a strong-looking mouse-coloured pony. I wanted a guide,
and my host — a Swiss, who had established himself for many
years on the banks of tho Eio Grande — decided that for such a
journey as I was about to undertake, I should want a safe and
experienced man, such as Manuel Orofios, for instance. This
Manuel Ororios, a Mexican half-breed, and a horse-tamer by
profession, enjoyed an indisputable reputation for horseman-
ship. He knew Texas well, and no better guide could be found.
For two years he had lived a secluded life. He was accused of
having taken part with the Americans in the late war ; and one
of his countrymen having dared to tell him so to his face, was
at once stabbed. That is how the story ran at Presidio Grande,
but my host did not believe a word of it. Besides, even if it
were true, Manuel OroHos was none the less a skilful guide.

THE UORSE-TAMER. IGD

Two days later, Manuel Orouos was introduced to me. IIo
was a man of forty, tall and robust, with strong, he^vy features.
1 explained to him my intention of crossing the plains. After
reflecting for some time —

•'Very well," said he, suddenly. "When do you wish to
start ? "

" To-morrow, if possible."

" Bo it so, seiior."

At break of day, a horseman, in a long scarlet cloak, and straw
hat with large flaps at the sides, riding a magnificent horse, with
a saddle ornamented with silver, knocked at my host's door with
the loaded handle of his riding- whip. I was already busy har-
ncKsing my famous mouse-coloured horse, and I went out to
meet Manuel Orouos, who, from the richness of his costume and
the beauty of his steed, would unmistakably pass for the master.
He bowed politely to me, alighted, and eyed my horse en con-
noisseur. Presently he smiled.

" Do you really think you will be able to cross the savannahs
on that wretched quadruped ? " asked he.

" That wretched quadruped ! " cried I, indignantly. " My
horse has none of the traditional leanness of Don Quixote's
steed ; he is well made, good tempered, and if his coat were
not such a singular colour . . . . "

" That animal has no stamina, seiior — I am certain of that,
and only hope that he may not break down with you half-way.
But will you take my advice ? Let us put off" the journey till
to-morrow ; exchange your horse for another, no matter which,
and you will gain by it."

I defended my steed against my guide's criticism, more
perhaps out of self-pride than conviction. I would not confess
that I had been deceived.

" Such as he is," said I at last, " this horse will quite well
carry me from here to the Rio de las Nueces, will he not ? "

" Perhaps. Anywoy, with God's help, you may do it."

I sprang into the saddle ; then, having bid farewell to my
host, I used my spur. My steed bounded forward, and set oflf at
a pace which seemed to contradict my guide's gloomy prognos-

170 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

tics. Leaving the far-oiF summits of the Sierra de Guadalupe
to our right, we went through the wide street of Presidio
Grande, and a few hours later we weio riding through a mag-
nolia wood.

Twenty-four hours after starting, wo came upon an immense
savannah, dotted hero and there with clumps of mimosa trees.
The heat soon became overpowering. We were, however, obliged
to continue our way jast the same, for, according to ray guide,
we had three halting-places to pass before we should be able
to find any water. My mouse-coloured horse which I had as
yet only had occasion to praise, now began to lag, and obliged
me often to use the spur. All at once the poor beast suddenly
stopped short, tottered on its legs, and lay down gently on the
ground. Fortunately, foreseeing what would happen, I had
taken my feet out of the stirrups. I unsaddled the poor animal
as quickly as possible, but it drew its last breath before I could
finish the unstrapping.

I then looked at my guide, with bewilderment easy to be
conceived; he pulled his thin moustache energetically. Wo
were forty leagues from our starting-point, and sixty from the
place we wanted to reach. The situation left much to be desired.

" What am I to do ? " cried I.

" My horse could carry both of us very well," replied Manuel
Oronos ; " but, thus burdened, wo shall be obliged to make very
short stages, and shall have no pleasant time of it."

" And what about my luggage ? " cried I, pointing to a small
portmanteau fastened to the saddle, and which, besides a change
of clothes, contained my notes and sketches.

" You must leave it as well as your saddle."

This proposition was decidedly not to my taste.

" Take my portmanteau," said I to the guide. " I am not
afraid of fatigue. I will follow you on foot."

" Under this sun ? You cannot think of it, senor."

** I am a good walker, and if we walk till night . . . ."

" Do you think for one moment," cried the Texian, " that you
could walk sixty leagues in this desert ? "

" Sixty leagues ? No ; for we shall turn back, and this time

THE HORSE-TAMER. 171

I will get you to buy mo a horse. But tell me, is there no villago
nearer than Presidio ? "

Instead of replying, Manuel looked at the horizon, and again
pulled his moustache. I repeated my question.

" There is the Diamond ranch) about six leagues to the south
of us," replied ho at last.

"That is a lucky name!" cried I. "Bo quick; show mo
the way."

" Your honour has not an idea of the difficulties you will
find in walking," resumed the guide. " First of all, the ground
is uneven, the grass is high, and before an hour's time you
would be 3o dreadiuUy bitten by insects, that your legs and
feet would be of no use to you."

"What would i'you propose, then? I suppose we cannot
camp here and wait for help ? "

" If your honour had the courage to remain here alone for a
few hours, and would trust mo with a little gold, I could go to
Diamond rancho, and bring back another horse."

It was now my turn to be silent. It needed some little
reflection, before deciding to remain alone in the midst of a
savannah. After all, Manuel was to be relied on, and I had
only one fear, which I told him, and it was that ho would have
great difficulty in finding me in the immense plain, where I
should remain lost.

" If you do not move from here," replied my guide, " I
promise you I will be here before night."

" Go, then," said I, " and come back quickly."
Without further explanation, Manuel bowed to me, and
spurred on his horse. I followed with my eyes for some time,
until the mimosas gradually hid him from view, and I was
left alone at noon, in the midst of almost absolute silence.

My first care was to cut the grass, arrange it in long bundles*
and make myself a shelter. I thus succeeded in improvising
a kind of tent, under which I could stretch myself in shelter.
The day was spent in defending myself against swarms of
insects. The most tiresome were the pinolillos, whoso venomous
bite I had known, to my cost, in former travels in hot

172 MY It AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

c5oiintric8. How many times I envied the vultures their wings
when I saw thoHo bold robbers flying through the cloudless
«ky. At times the silence around me became so oppressive,
I was obliged to whistle or strike the ground with my riding-
whip to make a noise.

Just as the sun was neaiing the horizon, a light breeze
Hprang up, and I was able to leave my shelter. About five or
six yards from the spot where I had been resting was a hillock,
where I resolved to take my stand. From the top of this slight
eminence, which overlooked the plain and seemed to have been
made by man, I should be able to see my guide in the distance.
A fire lighted on the summit would be a signal to him, and
enable him to find me sooner.

I flattered myself that this was a very good idea. From
the hillock I was able to see the place where my poor
horse was lying, and also the trace left by Manuel in the
long grass. I gathered sufficient branches to feed my fire, and
night found me warming myself before a bright flame, the
crackling of which enlivened and reassured me. Two or three
times my attention was aroused ; I thought I heard the sound
of barking in the distance, but hearing nothing the next
moment, I attributed the sound to my fancy.

Hours went by, and my guide did not come. This camping
in the open plain was not the least curious incident in my
adventurous life. If Manuel did not return, what would become
of me? I asked myself this terrible question from time to time,
and a shudder ran through my body. But one only abandons
an enemy in the desert, and Manuel was not ray enemy.

Suddenly the galloping of a horse was heard, at first in the
distance, and then more distinctly. I got up, shouted, and ran
some distance in front of my bivouac. To my great surprise,
instead of my guide I saw a horseman with a rifle at his side,
who looked at mo with curiosity equal to my own. I seized my
revolver.

"Friend or foe? "I cried.

"Whichever you like, sefior; for my part, I have no evil
intentions against you. One word only : are you a Yankee?'*

THE HORSE-TAMEU. 17o

"No, I am a Frenchman, and consequently a friend of the
Texians, whatever party they jr : --^ uphold."

*' Well said, senor, and I beiievo you."

The new-comer then hung his rifle to his saddle-how and
drew near my fire. I imitated his confidence by putting down
my revolver, and I briefly told him my misadventure.

" Manuel Orofios ! " cried ho, when I mentioned my com-
panion's name. " Is Manuel Oronos your guide ? "

" Yes," replied I. " He is at present at the Diamond rancho,
in search of another horse for me."

" He will return as ho went, seSor. The Diamond rancho
has been abandoned for almost six months."

I soon learnt with surprise that the horseman lived at less
than a mile from the place where I was, and that the barking
which I had heard was not imaginary.

" Is not Oronos aware of this circumstance ? " I asked.

" Oh yes, perfectly ; but there is a death-feud between us,
and he does not care to meet me."

These words threw me into great perplexity. Oronos could
not now be long in making his appearance, and if ho came up
unexpectedly, I should most probably be the unwilling witness
of some fierce struggle.

" Good evening," said I to the horseman. " My guide will
probably not return until to-morrow ; I am going to sleep in
the mean time."

"By my worthy patron St. Joseph! senor," cried the horse-
man, " will you not do me the honour of sleeping beneath my
roof?"

" No," I replied, " although I thank you for your oflfor. You
have just told me that there is blood between you and my
guide, and I am particularly anxious that you should not meet."

"I swear, seiior," replied the horseman, "that you and
Manuel will be in safety under my roof. Hospitality comes
before vengeance. I shall tell him so, for I expect him."

The horseman at once alighted, tethered his horse, and quietly
eat down by my side. Ten minutes passed, and at last Oroiios.
appeared. He grew slightly pale on seeing my companion.

174 MY BAUBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

" Good day," said the latter, rising.

" Good day, Jose," replied my guide. " Were you waiting
for me ? "

*' Yes, to invite you to accompany this traveller to my roof.
You know I mean what I say, Manuel."

Manuel bowed his head without replying, and soon follow-
ing the horseman, we came to a large building with a turf
roof. On the threshold two young women were bruising maize,
by the flickering light of a fire. After having given us
some supper, Don Jose took us to a small shed built against
the house, and there he left us to sleep, wishing us good-night.

" What tragical event has happened between you and our
host ? " I then asked Manuel.

" Four years ago," replied my guide, " in a horse-race I
gained a prize which Jose's b. .ther competed for with me. He
became furious, and shot my horse; whereupon I struck him
across the chest with a club, from which he died. Jose and his
brother were at that time on the side of the Americans ; I was,
and am still, for Mexico, and our quarrel was thought to have
arisen from political reasons."

" Are you afraid of vengeance ? "

" Yes," replied my guide ; " but not this evening. Anyway,
I shall keep on my guard. Let us sleep ; I am quite exhausted
with fatigue."

I stretched myself on the mat which had been placed on the
ground, and Manuel followed my example. A quarter of an
hour later, when he thought I was asleep, I saw him get up
quietly, and go awaj'. I looked after him. Instead of going
towards the house, as I had feared, my guide went in the
direction of the plain. Evidently he had not much faith in
Don Jose's promises, and wished to put himself in safety. The
hours went on, and I fell asleep.

When I awoke, the ardent rays of the sun were already
burning the great plains, and there were light mists floating in
the air. I found my portmanteau and my horse's harness
before the door of the rancho, and standing round a young horse
were Don Jose, Manuel, and two servants. Manuel was

THE HORSE' TAMER. 175

examining the horse carefully, and I learnt that it was the one
my host wished to sell me.

" Is it a wild horse ? " I asked, seeing the way in which
he was fettered.

" Wild ? no," replied the seller. " He has the red mark on his
thigh, which proves that he has been thoroughly broken in; only
he has lived free on the plains for a year, and will bo a little
restive until he is reminded of obedience. Is he not a fine
animal, Manuel ? "

" Yes," said Manuel, " there is a good look about the creature ;
but he must be ridden to know what he is worth."

" Certainly," replied Don Jose.

Two Indians, who were breaking in a colt, were at once
called. Before us stretched a savannah, the grass of which had
been burnt away for some distance; a precaution generally
taken by rancheros, as much to rid themselves of harmful insects
as to have tenderer grass for their cattle.

"Will you not show the animal off yourself?" asked Don
Jose of Manuel.

" Yes," answered my guide, shortly.

To my great surprise, the two Indians led the horse to an
enormous branch covered with foliage, which they fastened to
the long tail of the trembling creature. Meanwhile Manuel
stripped himself naked to the waist. He passed a horsehair
rope through the mouth of the potro — a name given to young
horses — which, with a slip-knot, served as bridle and bit at the
same time.

The Inclians hung on to this curb, holding the horse, which,
frightened and angry, lowered his head and pawed the ground
restively.

" Stay," cried I, seeing my guide ready to spring on to the
animal's back; "what I want is a quiet, tractable animal.
What would be the use of a wild horse like that to me ? "

" Before an hour's time, senor," replied Don Jose, " Manuel,
who has not his equal in the country for breaking in wild
horses, will bring back his pupil as pliant as the backbone of
a tiger."

17G MY Ji AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

I turned to Manuel, and he said abruptly —

" All right ; we will talk about it presently."

He immediately sprang on to the potro, which curveted,
gave a prolonged neigh, and shook his head to free himself of
the two Indians who kept him prisoner, lifting them from the
ground as he did so.

" Let go," cried Manuel.

Just as the Indians were obeying this order, Don Jose, with
a rapid movement, cut the cord which tied the branch to the
horse's tail. The animal, feeling itself free, made one or two
swerving steps, and then darted forward like an arrow.

" What a treacherous act ! " I cried, advancing towards Don
Joso ; " it may perhaps be the cause of that man's death ! "

" I have an old account to settle with Manuel, seiior,"'
(quietly replied my host. " Take my advice ; don't interfere in
the matter."

Borne away by his steed, Manuel had disappeared. The
Indians and the half-castes, as much surprised as myself, looked
at their master without saying a word.

" I have put my vengeance in God's hands, and He will
decide," said Don Jose, loftily.

For an hour I walked over the plain, looking continually in
the direction where I had seen my guide disappear. Carried
away by the mad pace of his steed, the horse-breaker, dashed
against the trunk of a tree, was now perhaps lying on the
immense savannah. At last, taking possession of the unhappy
man's horse, I saddled it with the full intention of going in
search of him.

" Where are you going ? " asked Don Jose.

" I am going to try and find your victim," said I, indignantly.

" My victim ! Of course you are at liberty to speak and da
as you like ; nevertheless, if you believe me, the best thing you
can do would be to resume your journey peacefully. You are
going to the Rio de Nueces, are you not ? One of my Indians
will serve you as guide ; I place him at your disposal."

I was about to set out, when an exclamation from one of
the Indians made me look towards my left, and it was with a

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THE nORSE-TAMER. 177

feeling of inexpressible relief that I saw Manuel returning to
us full speed. At less than five hundred yards from me, he
suddenly checked the foaming horse, made him walk, turned
him to the right and to the loft, and at last, after another gallop,
he stopped short at my side.

" He is a good animal," said he. " You can buy him. He is
worth thirty piastres. Pay, and let us start."

Astounded by this incredible coolness, I stood open-mouthed.
Manuel rapidly dressed himself and saddled my horse, which,
almost exhausted, no longer offered any resistance. Half an
hour later, Don Jose having received his thirty piastres without
any remark, Manuel persuaded me to mount his horse, and he
took mine.

" Good day, Jose ! " cried my guide. " You have played me a
trick I shall not forget ; so au revoir"

" Au revoir,^^ replied Jose mechanically, and, riveted to the
spot where he stood, he watched us out of sight.

Directly the rancho had disappeared behind the mimosas, I
drew near Manuel.

" This good beast deceived his master's hopes," said he,
stroking the potrc's neck, " and your acquisition is good. Before
three days you will be able to mount my pupil without any
danger."

I wanted to question my guide, and speak to him about Don
Jose ; but he was silent, pulled his moustache, and rode on in
front. When night fell, the horse-breaker, after having carefully
examined the ground, made several circuits and finally halted.
The horses were tethered. He led me further on, and we settled
down among the cacti and mimosa trees.

After a frugal supper, Manuel placed his fire-arms within
reach, stretched himself on the ground, and fell asleep. More
agitated than he by the events of the morning, although they
had ended happily, I did not get to sleep till much later. In
the middle of the night, I thought I heard the crackling of
branches; I got up quickly, and saw my guide still slum-
bering peacefully. I lay down, but it was some time before
I again fell asleep.

178 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

It was daylight when I opened my eyes, and what was my
surprise on seeing Don Jose and one of his Indians quietly
saddling my horse. I turned quickly to the place where
Manuel Oronos was lying. He was still sleeping. Surprised at
his long sleep, I went up to him, and then stood aghast. Before
me lay the unhappy man, white and livid, a gaping wound on
his breast, sleeping an eternal slumber. He had been assassin-
ated during the night.

" It is your work ! " I cried, advancing towards Don Jos6.

" It is my work, by the hand of Ametl," replied he, pointing
to the Indian. " It was high time to pay an old debt. Thus
perish," added he, with energy, " all those who delivered Texas
to the Yankees."

It was a singular thing, the two antagonists bore the same
accusation against each other.

Don Jose took the poor horse-breaker's place, and the
corpse was left to the birds of prey. For three days the
assassin served as my guide, and his company caused me a
certain uneasiness, especially in the evening, when I was
obliged to lie down side by side with my terrible conductor.

As soon as we were within sight of the Rio de las Nueces
Don Jose left me, without taking any compensation for his
trouble. I related my adventure at the first house, where I was
hospitably received, and instead of being indignant, my hosts
seemed to think the incident quite natural. Two days later I
again told the story to some American planters.

" We shall never have any peace," said one of them, " until
the country is rid of these Spanish half-castes ; and it will not
be long before it is, if they begin killing each other."

The law of virgin countries is that of the strongest ; is it
not 30 sometimes even in civilized lauds ?

TENOCHTITLAif.

Arrival of the Spaniards at Mexico— The palaces of Monte'zuma — The
modem town — The National Palace — The theatres— Itinerant merchants
— Society.

It was on the 20th of March, 1852, about four o'clock in the
afternoon, when, mounted on a sturdy mule, I had a first
glimpse of the capital of Mexico. The sky was a magnificent
deep azure, and the somewhat scanty verdure of the central
plateau bright with vernal tints. A number of vultures were
hovering over the ancient city of the Aztecs, that town of
Tenochtitlan which, founded in 1327, taken and sacked by the
Spaniards and their allies in 1521, was almost immediately
rebuilt, as it now stands.

I had just crossed the Terre temperee, and I must confess the
dwarfed trees which I saw here and there gave me a very
unfavourable idea of the valley of Mexico, which, nevertheless,
passes for being very fertile. Fertile ! Well, be it so, especially
towards the west; but, in order to call it fertile, one must
forget for a moment the vast tropical forests just crossed, the
coffee plantations of Jalapa, the orange woods of Orizava — in a
word, the verdant country sloping from the great Cordilleras.

To tell the truth, the impression I had was anything but
pleasing on perceiving the city, which for more than two
centuries was considered as the finest and most opulent city of
the New World. But before saying anything of the modern
town, let us speak of the great city described by Cortez,
Torqueiiiada, Bernard Diaz del Castillo, Clavigero, Herrera, and
finally by M. I'Abbe Brasseur de Bourbourg. One can see that

180 MY It AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

historians are not wanting of the ancient capital of the Mexi-
catlH, or Aztecs, which, for a long time unrivalled, is now
surpassed in splendour, population, and riches by many cities of
the United States.

Built partly on piles, in the midst of lakes, Mexico is often
ciUed by the Spaniards the Venice of the New World. At the
time of the conquest, it was intersected, at right angles, by a
number of canals, l lered on either side by paths for foot-
passengers. These canals, wide and deep, were incessantly
covered with boats, and at certain distances spanned by bridges,
fixed or movable, according to the necessity of the position.
In fact, Mexico then possessed only four roads of any import-
ance, which, starting from the four doors of the temple of
Huitzilopochtli — the god of war — were the means of communi-
cation between the city and the country. These causeways,
built on piles, were paved with admirably cemented flag-stones,
wide enough to allow of ten men passing abreast.

At +hat time Mexico contained no less than sixty thou-
sand households. The commodious and spacious dwellings of the
nobility and merchant aristocracy, situated in the centre of
the city, stood on terraces varyiL^~ in height. These houses,
built of lava — tetzontli — had only one story above the ground-
floor ; a court surrounded with porticoes, and adorned with a
fountain placed in the centre. Some of the richer occupants
had gardens.

The lower quarters of the city, inhabited by the poor, were
comprised of houiscs built of adobes, or sun-dried bricks. On
account of the public hei.lth, these houses had been built on
a layer of stone several yards deep, to protect them from
inundations.

At the time of the arrival of the Spaniards, no capital could
boast of being better regulated than Mexico. No one, except the
soldiers of the emperor's body-guard, was allowed to carry arms
in the public roads. At night, brasiers in the streets, carefully
attended to, lighted the city until daybreak. A vigilant body
of police kept the canals constantly dredged, the streets swept,
and the public squares watered. Everywhere in this model city

o
u

TENOCHTITLAN. 181

the water, winding through numerous pipes, abundantly supplied
each house.

Besides the principal temple dedicated to the god of war,
and enclosing seventy-eight sanctuaries, Mexico contained
more than four hundred buildings erected in honour of its
divinities. That which added further to the splendour of this
great city were the numerous palaces built by Montezuma and
his ancestors. The ordinary residence of the emperor, built of
rose-coloured pumice-stone, had twenty gates opening on to as
many squares, and in the centre of the building were three vast
courtyards ornamented with fountains. Marble, porphyry, and
alabaster were everywhere to be seen, under the form of columns,
flag-stones, and steps. Rich carpets and mats of the finest
texture covered the floors. There were more than a hundred
rooms, and as many bath-rooms, without counting the armouries,
in this sumptuous palace, where gold, silver, and feathers
rivalled the marble of the porticoes in brilliancy. " The roof of
this palace was so extensive," said a gentleman in the suite of
Cortez, " that more than thirty horsemen would have been able
to joust on the terraces it formed, as easily as in the large square
of a town. In the interior, vessels filled with perfume were
continually burning, and the daily service, according to Torque-
mada, occupied no less than three thousand persons.

A building not less remarkable than that of which I have
just spoken, was the palace destined for the rearing of birds,
whose feathers, carefully collected and prepared, were used in
making those pictures now so rare, that only fragments of them
are to be found in museums. Extensive gardens were enclosed
within the building, where tanks supplied with salt or fresh
water, according to the nature of the birds, were placed near
them.

Not far from here was the imperial menagerie. The fauna
of Mexico, birds, quadrupeds, reptiles, fish, had been collected
in this palace, and enclosed in gardens, cages, or tanks. One
of the rooms of the building was appropriated to the lame,
club-footed, dwarfs — in short, every species of deformity that
afflicts the human race.

182 MY It AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

We will now return to my subject after this digression.
After contemplating for a moment the great city stretch-
ing before me, its numerous spires reminding me of Spanish
towns, I with some difficulty persuaded my mule to pass
through a monumental gateway, bearing the name of Garita
de Puehla, leading into a long, wide street. Scantily clad half-
breeds, both male and female, sitting on the pavement, or
squatting in front of their doors, watched me pass with a
dogged expression on their faces. As I got further into the city,
it became gradually transformed. The houses were higher
and more elegant, the streets more crowded with people, and
the shops better fitted up; besides this, the costumes of the
people 1 met were more in European style. At last, after having
crossed the cathedral square, and ventured into the famous
street of the Plateros, I found myself riding in the midst of
carriages and carts, and among gentlemen wearing frock-coats,
silk hats, and kid gloves. To my great annoyance, my terrible
steed would stop short from time to time and begin to bray.
At last, about six o'clock in the evening, I entered the court-
yard of a large hotel. At seven o'clock a waiter, in a blue
cloth jacket, white apron, and serviette under his arm, brought
me a bill of fare, and awaited my orders. I could almost have
believed myself in Paris.

The next morning, according to my custom, I set out to
wander through the streets of the city, and this time on foot.
I was favourably impressed after this first excursion. Mexico
is decidedly a fine city, well-built, well-situated, with the
elegance of civilization curiously contrasting with the singu-
larities of the savage world. But what has become of its
former police? As to cleanliness, Mexico cannot be compared
either to London or Paris; nevertheless, it is certainly better
ordered than New York and the Havannah cities, where
edileship leaves much to be desired !

And again what have become — and I am not the first to ask
the question — of the canals, the palaces, the temples, and the
gardens, descriptions of which left ub by early historians,
especially by Cortez, seem like pages taken from the Thousand

TENO CHTITLA N. 183

and One Nights ? The traveller seeks in vain for traces of the
past in the modem city. Urged by deplorable religious
zeal, the conquerors, it is said, destroyed all the marble and
jasper monuments consecrated by the Aztecs to the worship
of their gods, the principal of which enclosed more than
three thousand statues. Without having the slightest claims to
being an archasologist, I venture to express my opinion that the
Spaniards singularly exaggerated the wonders of the world they
had just discovered. However great their ardour of destruction
may have beer, some vestiges of the past, separated from us by
scarcely three centuries, would still exist. Now in this great
city, with its streets cut at right angles, not a fragment
belonging to the Aztec city is to bo found. Everything is
modem, and built in the Moorish or Italian style, which the
Spaniards introduced into every country where they set footing.

The finest and most extensive buildings of modern Mexico
are decidedly the convents, of which there are not less than
twenty-two. The riches of these communities, for so long
proverbial, are at the present day much diminished. The gold,
Hilver, and precious stones which adorned the smallest shrine,
have gradually become the spoil of the revolutionists. Some
pictures of rare artistic value, and a few books curious on
account of their antiquity, are now almost the only treasures
preserved by the ii:onks, whom a recent law has expelled from
Mexico.

The National Palace, of which the Mexicans are very pioud,
has scarcely anything remarkable about it except its proportions.
It is an immense kind of barracks, serving as residence to the
president of the republic and its different minifeters. The
Dijputacion, or Mansion House, is a large, square stone building,
where the offices of the administration of the city are to be
found, and, curious assemblage, the municipal prison and the
!^ change.

Mexico possesses five or six theatres, all of modern con-
struction, perfectly regulated, and luxuriously fitted up. Old
Spanish plays, and especially French dramas, form the greater
part of the representations ; nevertheless, a company of Italian

184 MY H AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

singers, generally well selected, attract the pioference of the
higher classes in Mexican society. The national amusements
of the Mexicans are bull-fights, and perhaps also marionette
shows.

When intelligent excavations have brought to light the
objects which the Chichimecs and the Toltecs amused themselves
with burying in caves, the National Museum will become one
of the most curious in the New World. At the present day
it is nothing but an incoherent heap of heterogeneous collec-
tions : insects, birds, and quadrupeds are mingled with archaeo-
logical objects found in the valley. Mexico must have years
of peace to regain anything like her ancient splendour. Devas-
tated by civil war, this unfortunate country sees her frontiers
continually ravaged by powerful neighbouis. The Mexican,
like inany other nations, alas ! wears herself out in seeking
in vain for the best form of government.

Like all great cities, the capital of Mexico has its itinerant
merchants, with their singular costumes and cries. From
break of day, Indian coal-men traverse the streets, calling
to purchasers in a droning, mournful voice. Behind them come
butter-men, announcing the price of their goods, their guttural
voices alternating with that of the butcher, who, driving before
him a mule laden with joints of meat, sells his merchandise
without allowing a choice of pieces, and with superb disdain of
the most elementary rules of cleanliness. In their steps follow
the rag-and-bone merchants, whose trade consihts in exchanging
fruit or spices for rags and bones, cinders, tallow, and crusts of
bread. Last of all are the haberdashers, and the pork-butchers,
who, with lighted stoves on their heads, splash the passers-by
with grease in which their sauttages are frying. Walking in a
file are brush, straw-mat, barley-sugar, and sherbet vendors.
Everything you can think of is sold in the streets of Mexico :
remnants of stuff, spurs, hats, jewellery, even false money.
These good people, in their picturesque dresses, enliven the
streets with their incessant cries, and take up their positions
on the pavement, to the dire discomfort of foot-passengers.

The Calle de los Plateros is the principal commercial street.

TENOCHTITLAN. 185

Here millinery, jewellery, and drapery Bhops, all in imitation of
European style, are crowded together. One scarcely meets any
one in this part of the city who is not dressed in the latest
Parisian fashion. As one gets nearer the suburbs, blouses are
seen instead of overcoats, caps replace hats, shawls mantles, and
shoes boots. Quite on the outskirts of the city, a simple pair
of bathing-drawers for the men, and a short petticoat for the
women, was the only attire generally worn. From this point
of view, Mexico is certainly the most singular city in the world.
That downright democrat, the Indian, props his bamboo cabin
against the walls of a palace, and stmts proudly in his semi-
nudity among the elegant young dandies, who, although
affecting to despise him, are nevertheless of the same race, and
his countrymen.

ITie highest society of Mexico is polishe*, engaging, hos-
pitable. It follows as closely as possible French customs. The
women of Mexico, for centuries renowned for the beauty of their
eyes, the smallness of their hands and feet, and the wealth of
their hair, are still worthy in some respects of the reputation of
their ancestors. They are reproached for indolence. How can
it be otherwise, in a country where the height of good manners
forbids them ever to go on foot ?

THE PEARL FOREST.

CHAPTER I.

leidro — Don Anastasio Vega — The Pearl Forest — The Hermit's Cave — The

ambush.

To the east of Orizava stretclies a vast plain, overshadowed by
a mountain covered with ancient forests. This mountain, a
branch of the great Cordilleras, runs from east to west, and
bears the name of the Pearl Mountain. It is only passable
by abrupt, steep paths, winding through the forest of the
same name. But beyond this, one has a glimpse of picturesque,
fertile valleys, a veritable Eden, where all the productions of the
tropics, cacti, cocoa-nut, orange, lemon, and coffee trees crowd
together in profuse luxuriance. At the time of the possession
of Mexico by Spain, these valleys were well cultivated ; but at
the present day they are abandoned, and are gradually returning
to their former wild state. Gigantic trees entwine their branches
across the high roads, creepers block the paths, and cypresses
wave their sombre boughs over the ruins of habitations destroyed
by fire.

On the 5th of January, 1830, nine years after the final
proclamation of the independence of Mexico, two Indians, who,
from their orange-coloured skin, the regularity of their features,
and the fine proportions of their figures, might have been
recognized as descendants of the ancient Totonac race, were
laboriously climbing the last slopes of the Pearl Mountain.
They were dressed in sleeveless woollen shirts, cotton breeches,
wide straw hats, and wore sandals on their feet. Two laige

THE PEABL FOREST. ] 87

travelling-bags, strapped on their shoulders, visibly impeded
their progress. It is always difficult to guess the age of an
Indian, for the men of that race have the privilege of preserving
their teeth to extreme old age, and their hair does not turn
grey until very late. Nevertheless, from his walk, less elastic
and free than his companion's, although his limbs were more
robust, it might be supposed that the one taking the lead was
much the elder.

" Father," said the second, in the Aztec tongue, *' I do not
hear the master."

His companion at once stood still, breathed heavily, and
then listened. The atmosphere was calm, the forest quiet;
not a sound, save the buzzing of insects, disturbed the reigning
silence.

" They are coming, Isidro," replied he. " Listen ! "

Isidro made a sign of assent, and the two continued their
way. Before long, about a hundred steps below them, appeared
a horseman, dressed as a Spaniard, and, a remarkable thing in
a Mexican, he wore the Andalusian hat. Whilst guiding his
steed, the horseman continually turned towards a woman, who,
enveloped from head to waist in a thin shawl, guided the
spirited pony she rode with a firm hand.

"Take care, Lola," said the horseman. "A false step up
this hill would be very dangerous."

" You make yourself too uneasy, father," replied the young
girl. " You forget that I have been a horsewoman ever since I
was a little child, and that we have made more than one excursion
together like this in the Siena de Leon."

" The roads were better, Lola."

" You like to say that, father, because it was in your
own country."

" Be it so. Any wa}-, you were well used to the horse you
rode. Here we are shut in between two walls of rocks. Be
careful."

" Beally, father, if we are to travel along roads like this for
two days, as you have told me, you must be less doubtful of my
skill, or you will make yourself ill with anxiety."

188 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

Just then the two travellers rejoined the Indians, who were
resting, leaning their burdens against the rocks.

"If my memory does not deceive me, Jose," said the horse-
man, speaking to the elder of his two guides, " we shall be out
of this forest in twenty minutes, and on the top of the mountain
in half an hour."

"You are right, master ; but the worst part f>till remains
for us to cross. The last earthquake caused a landslip, and
destroyed part of the old path. Come along," continued tlie
Indian, speaking to his companion ; '* we will rest further up."

The four travellers resumed their arduous ascent, and soon
came upon fallen heaps of rock, held together on the liill-side by
trunks of trees.

" Master," said Jose, " the time has come for you to alight.
Ibidro will lead the senora's liorse, and I will attend to yours."

Don Anastasio Vega — such was the Spaniard's name— at
once alighted. He was a man of about forty-five, with a
bronzed skin, serious countenance, and stem features. He was
short, strongly built, and, judging from his powerful limbs, of
no uncommon strength. He assisted his daughter to alight, and
Lola, throwing back the scarf, showed a delicate oval face,
animated with large, brilliant, intelligent eyes. Scarcely had
she alighted, than she ran towards a rock to gather a flower,
which she at once placed in her hair.

" Ah, coquette ! " cried Don Anastasio.

Lola blushed, not because of her father's remark, but from the
artless admiration with which Isidro was regarding her. At the
risk of breaking the beautiful flower with which she had just
adorned herself, the young girl quickly pulled the scarf over her
head, and took Don Anastasio's arm, whilst Isidro, seizing hold of
the pony's bridle, led him on in front. Jose and his son climbed
the almost perpendicular slope with surprising agility, consider-
ing the burdens they carried on their shoulders. Taking advan-
tage of a gap in the wall of rock, the two Indians obliged the
horses to walk over blocks of sandstone, where their hoofs had
hardly anything to cling to. This diflScult passage was fortu-
nately very short, but when Don Anastasio and his daughter had

THE PEARL FOREST. 189

crossed it, they looked back with surprise, and could scarcely
believe that their steeds had been able to get over such a diffi-
cult pass. The travellers then left the last trees of the forest
behind them, and found themselves on a barren soil, strewn
with large blocks of stone, less dangerous, but more difficult to
climb. At last they reached the top of the mountain. Lola had
bravely surmounted all obstacles, but she was now almost
breathless. She took a few steps forward on the crest of the
hill, and then turning to her father, who had followed her,
uttered a cry of admiration.

From the height at which she stood, the young girl saw at
her feet part of the forest she had just crossed, and further on
the valley bordered by a lesser chain of the Sierra de Songolica,
enclosing the city of Orizava.

" Oh, father, how beautiful it is ! " cried Lola, delightedly.

The Spaniard put his arms round her, and clasped her to his
breast.

" That is just what your mother said when I brought her
here for the first time," said he. " Ah, dear child, what
memories it awakens ! "

Don Anastasio bent his head and stood for some time lost
in thought, and his daughter respected his silence. After
having freed themselves of their burdens, the two Indians
unbridled and fettered the horses, to let them graze. Without
deigning to look for a shelter, Jose and his son sat down on the
ground ; then, taking some maize cakes and dried fruit from a
bag, they began to eat with good appetites. Kousing himself
at last from his reverie, Don Anastasio led his daughter towards
a tree recently struck down by lightning, and over which creepers
were already twining in flowery garlands. There, sheltered
from the sun's rays, the father and daughter in their turn took
some food from their saddle-pockets and ate with as good
appetite as their guides.

"Whilst they lunched, the travellers were able to survey the
magnificent panorama before them at their leisure.

" Father," said Lola, pointing towards Orizava, with its
spires standing out against the blue sky, "is that the city where
I was born ? "

190 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

*' Yes, my child ; and if the sun were not so dazzling, I could
oven show you our old home."

" Is it imagination, father, or is my memory awakening? It
seems to me that I can remember these plains and mountains,
these gigantic trees and wonderful flowers, and that city lying
between the hills — in fact, all the landscape I can now see."

" You were just five years old, Lola, when we left this
country, and since then I have so often talked to you about
Mexico, that it is not strange you think you recognize it all.
Alas ! I have seen that plain stretching before us covered with
smoke, and strewn with the corpses of my brave countrymen."

" Do not think about it, father."

" I wish I could not, my child ; but how can I forget the
past? I knew this country, when it was happy under the
paternal rule of the King of Spain ; then I saw his children, his
sons, revolt against their mother country, and ravage by fire and
sword everything belonging to Spain. I saw my lands devas-
tated, and myself exiled by those whom I had protected."

" Once more, father, do not think of the past. The ports of
Mexico are now re-opened to the Spanish ; to-morrow we shall be
on your old estate."

" In the midst of ruins."

" Which you will rebuild by work and energy. My mother
was a Mexican ; I was bom here. Do you mean to consider me
also as an enemy ? "

"You have Spanish blood in your veins, Lola," eagerly
replied Don Anastasio.

" And I am proud of it. But we have other things to think
about. Do you not want to regain the fortune which the
war snatched from us? To work, father! It is not tho time
to despair or grieve, just as we are at the end of our long
journey. Is not the meeting with Jose and his son a lucky
omen ? For them, you are always the good master, on whose
land they were born ; and no doubt your other old servants will
come round you. The Indians like you, we know."

" It is fourteen years, Lola, since I was obliged to leave this
country."

THE PEARL FOREST. 191

" Do you tell me the time to remind me that I shall soon be
nineteen ? " asked the young girl gaily.

" No ; but to make you understand that more than one of my
old friends and servants are dead."

" We have to do with the living, father. According to Jose,
and from what you learnt at Orizava, it is a half-breed, named
Kendon, who has taken possession of your lands."

" Yes — Salvador Eendon, a child I have often taken on my
knee."

" He will restore your possessions."

" That is just what I am not sure about."

" You can go to law ; you are on the right side."

" Can there be any justice in a country which has disowned
its rightful king, and which has no settled government yet ? "

" I know nothing about that, father," replied Lola, laughing ;
" what I know is that I love you, and that I am happy any-
where with you. If you do not succeed in regaining this
fortune which would enable me to ride in a carriage, well, then,
I shall go on foot as before."

" Who would have thought," resumed Don Anastasio, " that
the miserable revolt in the village of Dolores, in 1810, would
end, in 1821, in the separation of Mexico from Spain! Who
would have thought that Iturbide, the friend of my childhood,
would become emperor, and would perish beneath the bullctb
of those whom he had restored to so-called liberty ! Finally,
who would have thought that I should see again this country,
which I believed I had left for ever ! "

"Who would have thought, father," cried Lola, "that I
should see you so sad just as you are within sight of your
journey's end, and I on the verge of possessing the carriage
you have so often promised me ? "

" Little goose ! Are you only mocking at my aflfection for
you ? "

" I am not foolish, father ; the proof that I am, on the con-
trary, very sensible, is that I hold to my carriage. Do you not
think that I should know how to recline on the cushions as
gracefully as the governor's wife? You have often told

192 MT RAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

me that when once yon have got back your property,
you will bo rich enough for me to marry a prince, as they
do in fairy tales. Only, father, you would be obliged to
return to Europe, for there are no princes to be found now in
this beautiful country."

Don Anastasio, like a true Spaniard, maintained a serious-
ness which not even his daughter's gaiety could disturb ; and
she began to gather the bright-coloured orchids growing in
wild profusion. In making her collection, Lola approached the
two Indians. Old Jose had stretched himself on the ground and
was sleeping, whilst his son, leaning with his elbow against a
rock, like a fine copper-coloured statue, watched the young girl
as she flitted about.

" Is it not time to be starting, Isidro ? " asked the Spaniard
of his guide.

Isidro got up and lightly touched his father's arm, who at
once aroused himself.

" Master wants to start," said the young Indian.

The horses were soon bridled. Lola and her father mounted,
and the two Indians, having resumed their burdens, crossed the
narrow summit of the mountain. Beaching the other side, the
little caravan followed a path loss uneven than the first, but
perhaps more perilous on account of the slope. As they went
further on, the trees grew closer together, the ground became
moist, and the daylight could hardly penetrate the shade.
A dull noise was heard, proceeding from a torrent flowing
through the bottom of the narrow ravine which the travellers
had to cross.

Having reached that spot, a halt was made to take refresh-
ment and rest. The place was picturesque and wild. Gigantic
trees everywhere, but not a bird enlivened the foliage with its
song. The sun could only enter these depths for a few minutes,
and yet that rapid passage of its rays was enough to maintain
life there. Lola was lost in silent admiration as she listened to
the roar of the torrent, awakening a thousand echoes with its
noise, ^-^A making a continual roar like thunder in this primi-
tive comer of the world.

THE PEAItL FOREST. 193

It took more than an hour to ^et out of the ravine and into
the sunlight again. Every one had been silent during this ride,
'i'he first sunbeam that darted its golden arrows across the path,
brought back the smiles to Lola's face. She urged on her horse
and breathed more freely. Flowers soon were seen growing by
the roadside, and the far-off ror.r of the torrent died away into
a vague murmur.

It was five o'clock in the afternoon, and the slanting rays
gave warning of a speedy sunset.

" It will be dark in half an hour, master," said Jos*';. *' Let
us push on, if you want to reach the Hermit's Cave."

" Yes, let us go faster, that is easily said," cried Lola. " For
my own part, I should like nothing better than a good gallop ;
but I do not see the possibility of getting one."

" Let us press on," said Don Anastasio ; " the nights are
bitterly cold on these heights, and the Hermit's Cave is the only
place where we can find shelter."

" The Hermit's Cave— what is that, father ? '*

" A hollow made in the side of the mountain we are crossing,
where an old monk used to live. He must be dead now."

" He is dead," said Jose ; " he was ansassinated."

" Assassinated ! Good Heaven, and by whom ? " cried Don
Anastasio.

" No one knows. His body was found at the bottom of the
ravine, pierced with bullets, and half devoured by vultures."

" Was this crime committed during the revolt ? "

" No ; two years later, when there was no fighting going on."

" And has the murderer never been discovered ? "

" Never."

" He was a holy man," resumed the Spaniard, crossing him-
self. " He was my friend, and at the time of my prosperity I
helped more than one poor man whom he sent to me for
assistance."

Saddened by his reflections, Don Anastasio again fell into
his usual passive humour. Wishing to arouse him from his
reverie, hir daughter urged on her indefatigable horse ; and the
more he; father remonstrated with her for her imprudence, the

194 MY n AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

more the pretty Lola laughed at the obstacles, and oven seemed
to enjoy tbem.

By a last effort, the travellers reached the crest of the
mountain, where they hoped to find a shelter, and were passing
between the hnge blocks of. granite which periodical earth-
quakes precipitate into the ravine. Jose was walking in front,
his son following him at a short distance; then came Don
Anastasio and Lola. Suddenly two or three pistol-shots were
heard. The old Indian, who at this moment was climbing a rock,
turned round and fell on his face. Isidro, throwing down his
burden, sprang into thy bushes, and Don Anastasio's horse was
sh(jt under him. This scene passed like a flash of lightning
before Lola's eyes ; for her horse, rearing and turning round, sot
off at a mad gallop down the slope, which it had had such
difiiculty in climbing.

CHAPTER IT.

The flight — A deUvercr — A walk in the forest — Old Jose — An unexpected

meeting — The bandits' retreat.

Lola was an excellent horsewoman, but she tried in vain to rein
in her stei d ; the noble animal, frightened and excited, was quite
insonsib'.e to the bit. At each of his bounds it seemed as
though the rider must bo dashed on the rocks, or crushed against
the trunk of a tree.

"Father!" she cried, in a tone of anguish; then she shut
her eyes.

All at once the horse neighed low and piteously, and
slackened its speed ; it trembled and shook all over, then
suddenly stood still, and the young girl had hardly time to
jump off its back, when the poor beast, wounded in the chest
by a bullet, fell down as though struck by lightning. Lola
stood for a moment quite overwhelmed by this new difficulty ;
then, thinking she heard the sound of footsteps above her, she

"PRETTV LOLA LAU(;HED AT ALL OBSTACLES."

THE PEARL FOREST. 195

instinctively sprang into the thicket, and walked on for somo
time, scarcely knowing whither she went, but going towards
the bottom of the ravine. Night came on suddenly, without
any twilight. Lola stopped to listen — she heard somo one call-
ing — and again she walked on. At last, not being able to see
where to step, she collected her thoughts and remembered her
father.

"Foolish creature that I am!" cried she. "I am leaving
him."

She tried to call out, but her throat was parched and she
could utter no sound. After discovering where she was, the
courageous young girl walked resolutely towards the place
where she had seen old Jose fall ; but soon she could neither see
nor hear anything.

" I must find my father," said she, with the energy of despair.

.\nd she again began to walk, stumbling against some obstacle
at every step, or getting her feet entangled in the trailing
creepers. Not being able to move a step further, lost in a forest
inhabited by wild beasts, and fearing lest her father should have
been killed, the poor girl sank on her knees and prayed.

More than an hour passed. Lola, shivering and sitting at the
foot of a tree, kept her eyes shut, wJiile anxious thoughts were
passing through her brain. She again saw old Jose stretched on
the path, Don Anastasio's horse falling under him, and it seemed
to her as though she were still being carried away by the mad
speed of her own horse. How was it that they had been attacked
in this solitary place? "Who was it that had laid in ambush for
them?

The air was so still that not a leaf moved ; but instead of
reassuring, the profound silence scared her, by making her
more keenly sensible of her loneliness. The darkness gradually
decreased ; a dim light penetrated the forest.

*' Can it be da) light ? " said the young girl to herself, for the
minutes had seemed to her as long as years.

She raised her eyes and soon saw that it was the moon's pale
beams. Dawn was still far off.

She tried to find her way back to the path. New fears now

19(> MY It AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

assailed her, in the dim, uncertain light ; trees, bushes, and rocks
took fantastic and appalling shapes; but summoning up her
courage and good sense, Lola succeeded in quieting her terror.
She wanted to go to her father and share his fate, whether he
were a prisoner or dead. After walking for a quarter of an hour,
she gave a sigh of satisfaction on finding herself in the narrow
path she had followed several hours ago.

Then walking on, taking care to make no noise, she slowly
climbed the steep mountain-slope. Fortunately, through her
father's advice, her boots were strong, and her delicate feet did not
suflfer much from the rough ground. Suddenly she stood still.
She thought she heard some one move in the thicket ; she had
several times had the same idea, but now she was not deceived.
She hid herself behind a tree and waited.

The footsteps drew nearer. Lola, again seized with, terror,
left the path and fled into the woods, violently pushing aside the
branches without reflecting that the noise would attract the
attention she wished to avoid. In fact, she soon knew that
she was being followed, and even imagined that she heard
some one calling her, just as she had become helplessly entangled
in the brambles.

" Oh, God ! " she murmured, " liave pity upon me."

Not being able to move, she held her breath, and then saw
a shadow glide among the trees, lean forward, stand still, then
advance cautiously.

" Dona Lola, is that you ? " said a muffled voice.

The young girl did not reply. She tried to distinguish the
face of the speaker, who, on his part, was carefully examining
all around him, and would certainly have discovered the fugitive
had not chance placed her under the shadow of a tree. Lola
followed every movement of her supposed enemj', and now saw
him go slowl}-^ and noiselessly away. She again heard herself
called ; and attempting to answer the call, she made a quick
movement and freed herself from one of the brambles which held
her prisoner. The flexible branch, set at liberty, sprang back,
making a slight noise, and the stranger, who was almost out of
sight, immediately stood still. After having listened, he again

THE PEARL FOREST. 197

advanced in the direction of the young girl. The moonbeam.^
fell upon his face, and Lola at once recognized her young com-
panion, the Indian Isidro.

" Come to me ! " tshe cried.

In a moment the Indian was by her side. Lola unconsciously
clung to her guide as though she were afraid he would go away
again.

" Oh, save me ! " she murmured ; and, thoroughly exhausted,
she sank down on the ground and burst into tears.

" Are you hurt ? " asked Isidro.

" No, but I am frightened ! " said Lola at last.

" Do not be uneasy. They think they are quite sure of find-
ing you, and will not look for you till to-morrow morning."

" Who will not look for me ? "

" The bandits."

*' And what of my father ? " cried Lola, habtily springing up.

" He is alive," replied the Indian eagerly.

A flash of joy shone from the young girl's eyes, and her
features relaxed.

" Wliere is he ? " asked she, with more composure.

" He is a prisoner."

" And your father also ? "

" My father is dead," said Isidro ; " they killed him."

Lola looked at her companion. His head was bowed, and
two large tears ran down his cheeks. She took his hand.

Isidro shuddered, and quickly freeing himself from her clasp,
said —

" I am only your servant."

•* Your father was my father's friend, Isidro."

*' I am only your servant," repeated the Indian.

He was silent a moment, and then, in a voice full of energy,
he continued —

" My father is dead ! but his blood shall be upon the heads of
his murderers, that I swear ! "

The young girl had knelt down and was praying.

" Arise," said Isidro to her, "and follow me."

" Where are you going to take me ? "

198 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

" To Orizava."

" I want to go to my father."

" The bandits have taken him prisoner. Did you not under-
stand me ? "

" These men can have no grudge against me. It is ray duty
to share my father's fate ; let us go."

Isidro shook his head.

" They want your possessions," he said.

" I am ready to give them up in exchange for my father's
liberty."

" I am not going to put the dove in the eagle's nest ; no, my
father's son will never do that," replied Isidro.

" What are your intentions, then ? "

" I have told you. I want to take you to the city, place you
in safety, and then return to save your father and avenge mine,
or perish."

Lola reflected for a moment.

" Whatever you undertake I will go with you," said she,
firmly. " Do not shake your head. I am courageous."

" The forest is large, the roads are rough, and there will be
bloodshed," said Isidro.

" Let us go," resumed Lola. " I have made up my mind."

" One moment of weakness may cost you your liberty, and
me ray life," said the Indian, slowly, as though weighing his
words.

" Let us think of your father and mine, Isidro. Once more I
tell you, I shall not be weak."

The Indian placed his hand on his chest, and simply said —

" Follow me."

He went back to the path, seemed to reflect, then, penetrating
the underwood, he broke the branches to make an opening for
his companion.

" Wait for me," he said, suddenly. He disappeared noise-
lessly, and came back, carrying an enormous stone. Then they
continued their way, Isidro breaking the branches, and stripping
the creepers of their leaves, as though from sheer amusement.
All at once he left the wood, and Lola thought she saw a plain

THE PEARL FOREST. 199

stretching before her ; she was in reality on the edge of an
abyss. Isidro stood still.

" Give me your scarf," said he, holding out his hand for it.

"Without any remark the young girl gave it to him. Leaning
over the perpendicular ravine, the Indian let the light fabric
flutter to the bottom; then taking the largo st^^ne ho had
brought, he sent it after the scarf. They could hear the stone
rolling and bounding for some time, then the noise died insen-
sibly away.

" The bandits will come in search of you at daybreak," said
Isidro. " Since you will not go to the city, I want them to
think you have fallen down this abyss."

" Cannot the bottom of it be seen ? "

" No J the rocks hang over. It would take several hours'
difficult walking to get down to the torrent."

Returning by the way marked by breaking the slender
branches, Isidro brought his companion back to the path. She
followed in silence, admiring her guide's sagacity. She felt
full of confidence in this unlooked-for protector, whom she had
only known for a week, and hardly spoken to before.

Sadly and sorrowfully poor Lola again climbed the road
which but a few hours before Don Anastasio had watched lier
ascend with so much uneasiness. On passfng her little steed, so
full of fire in the morning, now lying motionless where it had
fallen, she turned her head aside. Isidro now began to walk
very quickly. She sometimes saw him disappear under the
shadow of the trees, and could then hardly stifle a momentary
fear. Two or three times, feeling almost out of breath, she was
on the point of calling to the Indian ; but having promised not
to show any weakness, she was determined to keep her word.

All at once she saw her guide kneeling on the ground, and
the reason of this rapid walk was explained. Isidro was hold-
ing his father's lifeless body in his arms ; he was speaking in a
low tone in a tongue Lola did not understand. She thought he
was praying ; and joining her hands, she also fell upon her knees.

"Oh! father," said Isidro, "thou wouldst willingly have
lived longer ; thou didst love the flowers and the sunshine ; and

200 MY BAMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

yet there thou art, lying in eternal sleep. The wicked men
struck thee dowa by surprise ; they have deprived thee of a
gift, given thee by God, a gift no man can restore to thee.
Father, thine ear hath become deaf, but thy spirit hovers
around me, and listens to my words. Thou art gone into the
great spirit-land, where my mother, she whom thou lovedst,
hath waited for thee."

Isidro was silent. One would have said he was expecting
a reply.

"Father," continued he, "I will puni.«sh thy murderers. Thou
wilt help and guide me, as thou always hast done. I swear to
thee, thy body shall rest in consecrated ground. Wait for mo.
I shall come back again."

The Indian rose, and saw Lola praying.

" Thank you," said he. " He loved your father ; te was good.
Hush ! " murmured he, seeing that she was about to speak.

Lola held her breath, whilst Isidro, leaning forward with
bent head, listened attentively.

" Ah ! " cried he, " it is one of our enemies, and we have no
fire arms."

Although Lola was also listening, she could hear nothing
but the far-off murmur of the torrent. Carefully parting the
foliage, Isidro made a sign to his companion to follow him
into the thicket. There, hidden behind a tree, he could see
the path, on which the moon was shining. Several minutes
passed, and Lola gradually distinguished the sound of a horse's
hoofs. All at once the animal stood still and neighed ; it was
most likely passing by old Jose's corpse. But the measured tread
was again heard, and Lola saw a man on horseback about
twenty feet below her.

He advanced cautiously, and was intent on guiding his
horse. He wore a wide-brimmed hat, and as protection against
the cold, he was wrapped up to his eyes in the woollen covering
or sarajae which the Mexicans always wear over their shoulders.
The horseman passed near the two fugitives without being
aware of their presence.

" Let us go on now," said Isidro. '

"THE BANDITS SURR(JUN1)EU AN IMMENSE FIRE."

THE PEARL FOIiEST. ' 201

*• Are we to follow that man, then ? " asked the young girl.

** Yes, if we can."

*' Do you know him ? "
. "I think I recognized him, but I am not sure. Ho ought not
to be here." " ' rv*

They followed the horseman for twenty minutes, sometimes
getting near enough to see him ai)pear and disappear along the
moon-lit road. The moon was suddenly hidden behind a cloud,
and the forest was plunged in deep gloom. The rider slackened
his pace, but in spite of the darkness Is.idro walked steadily on ;
not so with Lola, who, whilst hurrying on to keep beside
her guide, often stumbled, or struck herself against the trunks
of the trees. She gradually fell behind ; and seeing this, Isidro
hastily walked back to her.

" Courage," said he ; " we are almost there,"

The horseman suddenly stood still, as though hesitating
which direction he ought to take.

Isidro listened attentively. When the horse went on again,
the Indian uttered another exclamation.

" I was not deceived," said he ; " that man is your crudest
enemy, and I know now where to find your father."
i They were again obliged to enter the thicket, where the
darkness made the walking doubly painful to Lola ; for the
brambles caught her clothes, and the creepers slashed her face,
every step she took. Accustomed to such excursions, Isidro
walked on as though his sight could pierce the darkness. Raising
her eyes by chance, Lola saw the tops of the trees illumined
with a red light.

" Is it daybreak ? " asked she. ' i^

" No," replied her guide, in a low voice ; " it is the bandits'
encampment."

Taking double precaution not to stir the foliage, and now
watching every step his companion took, the Indian led her
within twenty yards of their enemies' encampment.

The men, four in number, were grouped round an immense
fire, believing themselves safe in this solitude. They had ran-
sacked Don Anastasio's portmanteau; for one of them was

202 MT BAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

dressed in his clothes, and another had his hat on. Lola
looked for her father, and not seeing him, gave an involuntary
start.

" Have they killed him ? " she asked in a hurried whisper,
seizing Isidro's arm.

The Indian understood who it was his companion meant, and
shook his head.

"Where is he?"

Without speaking, Isidro drew the young girl out of the
shade in which they were hidden, and showed her Don Anastasio
lying gagged on the ground.

At that sight, Lola separated the foliage, and made a few
steps forward ; but an arm of iron instantly held her back.
Fortunately, the bandits were talking loudly ; nevertheless,
one of them turned his head in the direction of the rustling
branches ; but hearing nothing further, he again joined in the
conversation.

A whistle was heard. The four men at once sprang up.

" The master ! " said they.

And soon, wrapped in his woollen covering, the young girl
saw the man who had passed them on horseback.

" Upon my soul ! " cried he, " you have done a smart piece of
work. Did they fight for it ? "

" Like madmen, senor," audaciously replied the eldest of the
bandits, " and we were obliged to use our pistols."

" Cowardly liar ! " muttered Isidro.

" Were any of you wounded ? " asked the horseman.

" No, senor ; nothing but a few scratches."

" Where is the girl, Toribio?"

Toribio took off his cap, scratched his head, and looked
embarrassed.

" The poor little thing is wandering in the forest," said he
at last.

" Curse you ! did you let her escape ? "

" Her horse ran away, senor, and we could not follow her
until we had got rid of her companions. Night came on, and
she has most likely hidden herself behind some rock; but do

THE PEARL FOREST. 203

what she may, she cannot go far ; she will soon fall into our
hands."

" Why on earth did you not search for her ? "

*' It was quite dark, senor, and it would only have been loss
of time ! We came back hero to the rendezvous, bringing all
the game we could lay hands on."

Saying this, the bandit who answered to the name of Toribio
pointed to Don Anastasio.

The horseman stood thoughtful for a moment.

" What has become of old Jose's son ? " he asked.

*' He must be dead in some comer of the wood, for he was
wounded."

" I did not want any one killed," resumed the horseman ;
" and you must have been fools not to have taken them easily,
for they had no arms. I only wish I had been with you ; but it
was prudent for me to be seen in the town whilst you were at
your little game. Trouble for nothing, thanks to your stupidity !
Take your men off a little, Toribio, and bring me your prisoner."

The bandits obeyed the order, grumbling to themselves at
being sent away from the fire. Toribio hastened to untie Don
Anastasio's legs, and helped him to get up ; but the Spaniard's
limbs were so stiff he could scarcely stand, and Lola was
horrified at seeing his mouth covered with a gag.

" My father ! — save my father ! " said she to her companion.

" Patience," said Isidro. " We can only save him by keeping
free ourselves."

The tears flowed down the young girl's face.

" Oh that I were a man ! that I had a pistol ! " thought she.

Her attention was soon captivated by the scene which was
passing before her eyes. At the horseman's order, Toribio took
the gag out of Don Anastasio's mouth. The Spaniard's piercing
eyes could now examine the man whom he heard addressed as
master, and who, after laying aside his aarape, sat down on the
trunk of a tree, close to the fire.

Lola also watched the stranger who held her father's life
between his hands. He seemed to be about thirty years old. His
regular features, black curly hair, and olive complexion, showed
him to be a man of mixed blood, a half-breed.

204 MY BAUBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

" Where is my daughter ? " suddenly askc 1 Don Anastasio.
" For your mother's sake, young man, tell me what has become
of my child!"

" She lives," replied the horseman. e

" God be praised ! I wish to see her."

" It is not my intention to separate you from her," resumed
the horseman ; "and it depends upon you whether she is restored
to you at once or not."

"What do you want of me? Speak."

The stranger took off his hat and stood in front of his prisoner.

" Do you recognize me ? " he asked of him.

" I think I do," said the Spaniard. " You are Salvador
Kendon, are you not ? " --

" Upon my honour ! you have a good memory, sonor. Yes,
I am Salvador, and you can undoubtedly guess what I want
of you."

" I shall know better when you iell me."

" The lands which belonged to you have been given me as
recompense for services which I rendered the cause of inde-
pendence ; and you will find them in a prosperous condition, for
I have managed them wifely."

" I shall know how to recompense you well for your service,"
replied Don Anastasio.

"In what way?"

"I am waiting for you to tell me yourself what your
wishes are."

The bandit took a few steps and stood quite close to the
prisoner.

" A month ago," said he, " when I heard of your arrival at
Vera Cruz, I thought, and not without reason, that a deadly
struggle would ensue between you and me ; for I did not feel in
the humour to restore to you the lands which I thought I had
firmly in possession, and I knew you would not think of giving
them up to me. I went to Orizava to watch your movements, to
know what your intentions were, and there I saw your daiif;ater.
We can soon come to terras, Don Anastasio. Give me Doiia Lola
for my wife, and all will be peacefully settled between us."

THE PEARL FOREST. 205

" Never ! " cried the Spaniard, energetically.

" You are too hasty," said Salvador. " My offer requires a
little time to think over ; besides, I expected this refusal, and
took my precautions. You are in my power, and so is your
daughter. I have determined that she shall be my wife."

"I will yield you all my possessions for hei ransom and
mine," replied Don Anastasio. " Give mo back my child, and I
swear I will go back to Spain with her."

" Not so," said the young man. " Were you once out of my
hands, you would go to law, and Salvador would run the risk of
again becoming what he once was — a poor half-bre.d, whom
you would treat as your servant. Give me your daughter. I am
now a steady man, and every one will be satisfied with our
reconciliation. You will not ? Bo it so. Your daughter will
not refuse me, for your sake."

" What do you rely upon doing ? " cried Don Anastasio.

" I intend to offer her my hand in exchange for her father's
life. I had no other object in getting you into my possession."

The Spaniard's eyes glared like an angry lion's. He twisted his
arms in a vain attempt to break his fetters, and fooling the uso-
lessness of his efforts, he bowed his head sadly. At a sign from
Salvador, they stretched him on a heap of dry leaves a little
distance from the fire.

" You can think over this matter now, and wo will resume
our conversation to-morrow," said the half-breed.

Then, without taking further notice of Don Anastasio,
Salvador went back to talk with Toribio and his companions.
These men, of mixed blood like himself, had served in the
guerilla formed by the young man during the War of Independ-
ence. They were all his tenants since his former mastei's
possessions had fallen into his hands ; he could therefore perfectly
rely upon them.

At last each of the bandits rolled himself in his blanket, and
Toribio alone kept watch.

" Come," said Isidro to his companion.

The yonng girl seemed to awaken from a dream.

" No," said she.

206 MY GAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

" We must take a little rest ; we shall want strength to act
to-morrow."

*'I want to save my father."

" His life is in no danger just now. Come."

Lola stood motionless.

*' Do you wish to become the wife of Salvador, a murderer ? "

" I want to save my father."

" I piomit<e you solemnly I will save him or perish." said the
Indian in a low tone; " but follow me."

Lola at last obeyed. Guided by Isidro, she climbed a kind
of flight of steps in the rocks which seemed to her interminable.
She felt overpowered with fatigue, and notwithstanding her great
anxiety, her eyes closed, and she tottered in her walk, although
Isidro often took her hand to guide her through difficult places,
which the darkness made still more perilous.

" Eest yourself here," said the Indian, standing still.

Lola sank down on the grass, not knowing where she was, so
dark was the night. Overcome by fatigue, she soon fell into a
deep sleep. Isidro stayed beside her for some time : he seemed
to be gazing on her through the darkness. Suddenly ho gut up
and went away. After taking about ten steps he stopped to
listen, and heard nothing but the measured breathing of the
young girl.

" God of heaven ! " cried he, lifting his arms to the sky, " I
leave her in Thy keeping,"

Then entering the forest, he walked on with a rapid otep.

CHAPTER III.

The nocturnal walk -Indian and half-breed— Mdthal— The Hermit's Ravine.

Notwithstanding the fatigue which weighed him down, Isidro
had undertaken a long walk. He must have help or fire-arms,
to be able to fight with the men to whom his father had fallen

THE PEARL FOREST. 207

victim, and who, not content witli keeping Don Anastasio
prisoner, were intent upon getting possession of Lola. The
Indian at first thought of going to Orizava, but he calculated
that it would take more than twenty-four hours to reach the
town and return ; and what might not happen during that time !
And then at Orizava who would listen to him when he asked for
help? lie belonged to a despised race; but something must be
done, and that quickly.

Unfortunately, the nearest dwelling-place to the bandits' en-
campment was precisely Don Anastasio's property, now occupied
by half-breeds, old war-comrades of Salvador, who, if they did
not assist in their former captain's designs, would not be disposed
to act against them.

"Father, father!" repeated the Indian, "direct me what to
do. Now that thou canst see everything, thou wilt not allow
the wicked to triumph ! "

All at once Isidro remembered that at about three leagues from
the place where he was, on the other side of the mountain, there
lived a family of his own race, who had been his father's friends.
He immediately resolved to go and ask this farmer's help. As
he set out, a new anxiety troubled him. Ought he to tell Lola of
his abHf;nce? The idea of remaining alone and unprotected
might frighten the poor child. She would want to go with her
protector, and her strength would perhaps foil her courage.
Isidro thought that exhaustion would make her sleep long, so
that he would have time to return before she awoke, and she
would thus be spared cruel anxiety and painful fatigue. Having
made up his mind to act according to the dictates of his reason,
he set out resolutely.

The Indian walked on towards his countryman's dwelling,
as directly as the ground would allow, with that assurance which
custom and the knowledge of the place where one has been
brought up gives. Notwithstanding his diligence, the bravo
man took more than two hours reaching the farm. Day was
beginning to break when he reached the outskirts of the forest,
and came upon a small savannah covered with a mist, which was
soon tinged with rosy sunlight.

208 MY BAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

The birds broke forth with their joyous songs, as though
hailing the apparition of dawn. iHidro had stopped fur a
moment to make sure of hi« road, and then again continued his
rapid walk. The mi^t cleared off, and a picturesque cabin,
situated on a hillock a few hundred feet off, was to be seen ;
but the Indian, surprised at hearing no sound, advanced with
precaution.

He reached the rose-bush hedge which in this country often
grows near the cottages of the natives, without seeing any signs
of human beings. He called. No voice answered him. Isidro
then entered the open door of the humble dwelling. The
fire was still burning on the hearth, bnt the inhabitants were
ab>ent.

The Indian sat down and looked disconsolately around him.
It was a bitter deception. His eyes wandered fur some time over
the woody heights in front of him ; willingly would he have
pierced their depths. .The sun was gilding the trees ; the flowers,
wet with dew, slowly raised their drooping heads ; the birds
chased each ether from shrub to shrub, and the great vultures
of the Cordilleras, flapping their powerful wings, soared higher
and higher in the heavens. The smiling indifference of nature,
contrasting with the grief which overwhelmed him, troubled the
gentle, simple spirit of Isidro.

\\ hat was to be done ? Go to Huatusco, the nearest village ?
"What precious hours would be lost, especially now when the
bandits would most certainly be setting to work ; now when
Lola, awakened by the daylight, would find herself alone and
think she was abandoned ! Entering the inner loom of the cabin.
Isidro searched everywhere for f-ome kind of fire-arms, but f(;und
none. Near the fireplace ho faw a long hunting-knife, seized it,
and put it into his belt. He also took a gourd and some maize
cakes ; then casting a last glance over the savannah to aHsure
himself that it was deserted, he set out once again.

This time the Indian took a beaten path, which enabled him
to make more speed. For more than an hour he climbed and
descended the sides of the ravines, and then ho suddenly came
upon a half-cultivated field where a dozen cows were grazing.

THE PEARL FOREST. 209

The Indian skirted the forest, then slackening his pace, he weut
in the direction of a cabin built of wood. Near the threshold
a woman, kneeling before a large stone, was bruising maize;
not far from her sat an Indian, looking at the cattle grazing,
and apparently tending them.

The plaintive bark of two lean greyhounds warned the
inhabitants of the cabin of a stranger's approach. The man and
woman both got up to see who was the early guest who had
come to visit them. Isidro, with lowered brow, and no word of
greeting, passed close by the husband and wife, walked towards
the door of the rustic dwelling, and entered the outer room,
where the Indian and his wife at once followed him.

The young man had sat down near the hearth ; he had
separated the three stones which formed it, and was scattering
the fire-brands and the cinders. His hosts followed the new-
comer's movements with troubled looks, wondering what ill
news they were to learn ; for Isidro's action was a presage of
mourning.

The woman had a son absent. She falteringly mentioned
his name. Isidro shook his head negatively, and said —

" My father is dead, and i am an orphan."

There was a long silence.

" Thy father was my friend, and his son shall be my son,"
said the Indian at last. "Kest awhile, for thou art weary.
Presently thou shalt tell us where is thy father's grave, and we
will carry him the game which he loved ; and till a priest can
bless the ground where he lies, we will plant flowers there."

" My father has no grave," continued Isidro ; " his body lies
on the bare ground in the Pearl Forest."

" His foot was nimble and his eye clear," said the Indian ;
" how was it he fell into the abyss ? "

" He has been murdered."

The Indian and his wife crossed themselves.

" By whom ? " asked they together.

" By him whom the v^'hite people call Salvador Rendon."

" What dost thou want of me, Isidro ? " quickly asked the
Indian.

210 MT RAMBLES IN TEE NEW WOULD.

" That thou wilt help me to avenge my father, and give him
burial. My cause is a just one."

The Indian sat down.

" Speak ; I am listening to thee," said he.

Then, laying aside the grave and lengthy formulas which
Indians make use of in solemn moments, Isidro briefly re-
counted the treacherous attack, the death of his father, the
capture of Don Anastasio, and Lola's flight. His hearers lis-
tened with deep attention, and he had hardly ended his story,
when his host, hastily unhooking an old gun hanging from the
beams of the cabin, and girding on a leather cartridge-belt,
stood before him, saying —

" I am ready."

"Stay," cried the Indian woman, "and reflect a little.
Salvador Rend on is a half-breed, and thou art only an Indian ;
Salvador Rendon is powerful, and thou art poor."

" Are those reasons, wife, for leaving my friend without
burial?"

" No. If needs be, I would help with my own hands to bury
him ; but I would not see thee shed blood."

" I am not a child," replied the Indian, " to use a gun like a
plaything. I shall not attack, I shall defend myself. It is but
a good action, wife, to try and save a young girl out of wicked
men's hands."

" Go, then," replied the woman submissively, " and do not
forget that I shall watch for thee till thou art come back."

Then covering her head with her cotton scarf, she busied
herself in putting the hearth-stones together again.

Isidro was already out of the cabin.

" My father's spirit shall protect the days of Methal," cried
he. " Methal is a true friend."

Then he went towards the forest, followed by his companion.

The sun was far above the horizon, when the two Indians,
although they had walked without stopping, reached the rocky
enclosure, in a comer of which Isidro had hidden Lola. The
young man hurried on Methal, thinking of the anguish of Don
Anastasio's daughter, who, without water or food, must be

THE PEARL FOREST. I

wandering about with fright in the solitude; and he now
regretted that he had not told her of his project.

Suddenly he stood still.

" It is here," said he to his companion. " Wait for me."

He went slowly forward, looking anxiously around him, in
the hope of seeing his young mistress. The place was deserted.
Isidro entered the rocky enclosure, and came out again almojt
immediately.

" Ah ! " cried he, " we have come too late ; the dove has
flown."

Two tears fell down the young man's bronzed cheeks, and
crossing his hands on his breast, he stood motionless for some
time, vaguely looking towards the horizon.

" Arouse yourself," said Methal to him ; " the time is passing."

" True," replied Isidro. " Come."

He led his companion towards the forest, and both of them
began to examine the ground. Isidro saw that, notwithstanding
his precautions to hide their nocturnal walk, the bandits could
still trace their footsteps, and discover the young girl's hiding-
place.

" She is in their hands," said he, with despair.

" Dost thou know the place where they hide themselves ? "
said Methal.

" They camped yesterday near the Three Oaks."

" Let us go on," said the Indian, resolutely.

After a moment's reflection, Isidro bent his steps towards
the place where, on the preceding evening, the bandits had
taken up their quarters. He soon found himself near the rock
behind which, with Lola, he had been able to watch Toribio and
Salvador. He exchanged a few words in a low voice with
Methal ; the old Indian gave a sign of approbation, and
knelt down in the position of a hunter, on the look-out for
game.

Isidro crawled noiselessly towards the bivouac, then stood
up suddenly and called to his companion, who at once ran up to
him. The bandits were gone, and profound silence reigned in
the place which a few hours before resounded with their

212 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

coarse laughter. The Indians described a large circle round
the fire, which was still smoking — looking for a trace which
might show them the direction taken by the outlaws. The
footsteps all ended on the path, which greatly increased the
perplexity of the two friends. They resolved to return to
the place where Isidro had hidden Lola; and having reached
the enclosure where the young girl had passed the night,
Isidro again called her, and, as before, the echo alone answered
him. Still keeping on, the two explorers reached the crest of
the mountain, and looked down upon the tops of the trees in the
forest. Overcome by fatigue and heat, Isidro could no longer
stand. At his companion's entreaty, he sat down, drank a few
drops of water, then leant against the trunk of a tree, and fell
into a deep sleep. Respecting his companion's rest, Methal again
began scrupulous investigations alone. He traced the light prints
of the young girl's footsteps, and these tracks having led him
to the forest, he suddenly recognized the footmarks of several
pedestrians. The Indian gave a low, satisfied whistle, entered
the wood, and soon convinced that he had discovered the track,
he hastened back to his companion.

Isidro was still sleeping, and Methal, thinking rightly that
they would have several hours' walking before they could find
the bandits, judged it pruder ' not to awaken his friend ; and
stretching himself on the gr r^nd, he also fell asleep.

It was almost five o'clocii in the afternoon, when Isidro,
opening his eyes, measured the height of the sun and sprang up
with a bound.

" Up, up ! " cried he to Methal. " And God forgive us for
having forgotten that our unhappy friends count the hours
waiting for us ! "

"The time has not been lost," replied Methal; "it has
restored thy strength, and I know now what path we must
lollow."

" Sp'^ak quickly."

Methal led his friend to the rocks, then' brought him towards
the forest, and the sagacity of the two Indians told them that,
on awaking, Lola must have left her refuge to go into the forest.

THE PEARL FOREST. 213

There the footsteps of a man mingled with hers ; but there was
no trace of violence. The young girl must have voluntarily-
accompanied the man whom she had met. Methal and Isidro
followed the footprints step by step. Before long they saw that
a man on horseback would not have been able to climb the
ridges, nor descend the perpendicular slopes, followed by the
bandits, and they concluded that Salvador had not accompanied
them.

Night came on. I^iidro, always in advance, ran rather than
walked, tearing his face and hands with the branches that
barred his way.

" Stop," cried Methal, suddenly ; " we are on the wrong
track."

The young man turned back.

"Ah ! " said he, " one would say that God was abandoning us."

" The stag it; fleet of foot ; nevertheless it is caught," resumed
his brave companion.

Thanks to Methal's self-possession, the track was found
again, and for half an hour the two explorers were able to
follow it ; but soon the darkness became so thick, that they were
obliged to stop.

Isidro, leaning against the trunk of a tree, had closed his
eyes and was reflecting. Sometimes he started and leant forward
to listen ; he seemed to hear Lola's voice in the distance calling
him in a piteous tone. Once the illusion was so strong, that he
hurriedly seized Methal's arm.

" Did you not hear anything ? " he asked.

" Nothing," replied Metahl, " except the noise of the torrent,
and the plaintive cry of the night-birds."

Isidro was again silent. Suddenly, notwithstanding his
fatigue, he clung to the tree, and making use of his hands
and feet with the agility of men of his race, he soon dis-
appeared in the branches, where presently there was a great
flapping of wings from the numerous birds which he had
scared from their roosting-place. When the Indian came down
again his eyes shono with feverish gladness.

" They aro there," said he, stretching his hand towards the
west. " Methal, my father is watching us."

214 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

" He will avongo himself," answered Methal, raising his gun
above his head ; " he is waiting for you to tell him where he
must strike."

Walking this time slowly and cautiously, Isidro again led
the way. From time to time low growls were heard, cries of
hungry tigers in search of prey ; but these were not enemies of
a nature to frighten the two Indians. Suddenly Methal seized
Isidro's arm, led him a little to the left, and showed him a feeble
ray glimmering through the foliage. The young man's breast
heaved, and he uttered a deep sigh of relief.

" They are there," repeated Methal, " camping on the border
of the Hermit's Eavine."

" May the spirit of the holy man aid us ! Let us go on."

Then crawling silently along like two serpents, the Indians
gradually approached the new encampment chosen by the
bandits. The sound of voices reached them, when a piercing
cry, uttered by a woman, made Isidro bound forward. Stand-
ing up, Methal saw Lola struggling in Salvador's arms. The
impassive Indian shouldered his gun, aimed it cautiously,
and the report of fire-arms awoke the echoes of the Pearl
Forest.

CHAPTER IV.

The venture— An tmfortunate meeting — Salvador Eendon — The right of the

strongest — Pray for him.

It was broad daylight when Lola, still greatly fatigued, opened
her eyes. She looked around her, and was surprised to find her-
self lying in tall grass in a rocky enclosure. Isidro's name fell
from her lips, but no voice answered her, and she was soared by
a large eagle which flew off the peak of a rock, beating its long
wings over her head.

Supposing that Isidro was only a short distance off, Lola

THE FEABL F0RE8T. 215

followed the granite wall, and found the oi)ening through which
she must have passed the evening before. Hardly had she
made three steps, when she discovered she was on a bare moun-
tain crest, with the tops of the trees in the Pearl Forest lying
like a sea of verdure at her feet.

The young girl again called, and receiving no answer, her
heart beat violently. She walked rapidly towards the outskirts
of the forest, trying to find the path she had followed with
Isidro. She would not believe that the Indian had forsaken her ;
so, gradually recovering her courage, she tried to retrace her
steps, and soon perceived that she had lost her way.

For more than an hour the poor girl wandered about the
forest, walking round and round, and invariably finding herself
back at the place she started irom. Lola taxed her memory in
" ain; she could not remember whether the sun was on her left
or her right when she left her hiding-place. She dared not call
out except at rare intervals, for dismal sounds, the cries of wild
beasts or birds of prey, often answered her.

At last, thinking that the slope must bring her to the top
of the mountain, Lola began to climb it energetically. When
she reached the summit it was covered with trees, so that
she could see nothing. Exhausted, suffering from hunger and
thirst, she was obliged to sit down for a moment to rest herself.
The young girl resolved to follow the summit she had reached,
however rough the ground might be, until she came to some
opening in the trees, by which she would be able to find out
where she was.

What bitter sadness and anguish weighed down poor Lola's
spirit, a strai.ger till now to any care save the light vexations of
childhood ! She had never left her father's side before, and now
she was alone, lost in a forest, pursued by m irderers, who held
her father prisoner. Everything appeared so extraordinary, so
fearfully unnatural to the poor child, that she continually
repeated —

" I must be dreaming ! I shall awake."

Alas ! this nightmare was but too real, and more than one
proof still awaited the unfortunate young girl.

216 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

She had been sitting down for a quarter of an hour,
strengthening her resolutions with earnest prayer, when she
thought she heard the sound of voices. She got up and listened,
but the noise died away. She had just sat down again, when
she heard the crackling of broken branches.

" Isidro ! " cried she, involuntarily.

There was a moment's silence, then Lola listening intently,
knew that some one was coming towards her. Her first move-
ment was to fly ; but feeling her strength spent, she resolved
to face the danger, and stood still.

Several minutes passed. The new-comer was advancing
cautiously. Lola's heart beat loudly; she was hoping to see
Isidro. The foliage parted, and showed her the face of
Toribio.

The bandit stood still for a moment, evidently surprised
at this meeting, then he sprang forward quickly towards the
young girl.

" Ton my soul I " cried he, with a coarse laugh, " here's a
Godsend I "

" Take care," said Lola to him — for he had taken hold of her
arm — " I am the daughter of Don Anastasio Vega."

*' I know it, my beauty ; and if I had any doubt about it your
eyes would tell me, for there are none like them in all the
country. So you are here, my dear. Well, upon my word, I
thought you were at the bottom of the precipice."

" Take me to my father, senor."

" Presently, my pretty one. Do not tremble ; I am not
going to harm you. Are you alone?" asked he, looking dis-
trustfully around him.

" I am alone," replied Lola.

" By Heaven ! you must have had a sorry time of it since
yesterday. You should not have fled from us; we are not
your enemies. How did you manage to get up here ? "

" I walked up," replied Lola.

Toribio shook his head and seemed to reflect ; then placing
two fingers between his lips, he gave a long, shrill whistle, and
a similar sound answered in the distance.

THE PEARL FOREST. 217

" Let us go on," said tho bandit. *' But have you strength
enough ? You arc very pale ; lean on me."

Lola drew back with such visible repugnance, that Toribio
cried — .
, " Oh, oh ! I tell you, you need not be afraid. I am so much
your friend, that I would defend your life if necessary. Come
along. If the walk is too much for you, lean on mo. I bear
you no ill-will."

"Is your chief with you ? " asked Lola.

" My chief ? " cried the bandit, with surprise, looking at the
young girl. " Who told you that I had a chief?"

Not knowing how to answer, Lola walked on in front.

•' This way, this way," said Toribio, pointing to tho left,
and, with another whistle, he added : " What a prize ! "

Lola walked on rapidly, absorbed by the one thought of
seeing her father again. A few minutes brought them to the
encampment. At the sight of Lola, the bandits uttered
exclamations of surprise, and congratulated Toribio. Lola
looked for her father. She saw him, bound with cords, sitting
on the grass, with his head bowed. She flew towards him,
and embraced him, whilst tears rolled down the Spaniard's
bronzed cheeks, and he was unable to speak.

*' Ah, my poor child," said he at last, " what peril my ambi-
tion has brought upon thee ! And how will the iust God deliver
us from this danger ! "

The fetters chafed the prisoner's limbs;* Lut it was in vain
that Lola begged Toribio to loosen the knots.

" No, no," said the bandit ; " we do not want any fighting,
and the only way to avoid it is to keep the enemy bound, or kill
him."

A large joint of meat was roasting before a roaring fire.
After having feasted themselves, the bandits allowed Lola to
help her father, and take something to sat herself.

" Be sure," said Toribio to the young girl, " that you do not
try to loosen the prisoner's cords, or you will oblige me to dis-
charge my pistol between his eyes, and I am not fond of killing
where there is no need for it."

218 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

Tlie bandits stretched themselves on the ground to take
their afternoon nap, all except Toribio, who would allow no
one else the care of watching the prisoners. The unhappy
father and child were allowed to talk to each other. What
harm could that do? The young girl spoke in an undertone
of her meeting with Isidro, and then of the Indian's disap-
pearance.

" He is doing his best, be sure of that," said Don Anastasio,
with a look of gladness. •' I am a judge of men's characters,
and I know Isidro will never desert us."

" What are we to do In the mean time ? " asked Lola.

"Alas!" replied Don Anastasio, twisting his bound arms,
" I cannot advise, nor help you. Listen," added he, in a low
tone ; " try to seize one of those knives the first opportunity you
get, and . . . ." '^^

" Bad advice," quietly remarked Toribio, whose keen oar had
caught hhe prisoner's last words. " You will oblige mo to make
use of my pistol ; and I tell you once more, I do not care to shot t
when there is no need for it. IJesidos, no one here wants your
father's life or yours. Be patient ; you will soon be free."

Toribio aroused his comrades, and the party resumed tlieir
march. Lola guided her father ul»mg thn narrow path which
the brigands had taken, whiliit Toribio walkm! liehind thctn, Ium
gun on Lis shiJuKler. They stopp*^ fur a iptarter <if an hour t«»
relrenh themselves from a spring gUNliin^ from th«? mo^uitaitrM
Hide. They Imd Ixhjh walking for alxHit thr«^« houm, wiioti
they reu(;hod th<' Ixirdtrr of a yta^ntiiKuii^t tv^sma^ <»ttd it wim
bcgimiing to (/:• t ink.

'•Hftlt!' -iM a Toribio.

Uiit « wu.p.iiiioiiN, promptly «|||Fiiif Mi iliR*, iwt
Ntft out ill mimrvU of dry irciud, muA k mtam V»u% mi
lit up tbi« trtiiik* of i\m iioai^ii fkmm ^ um\f tmm fg^tw'm^.
in ihut wild nfwil.

Vkm hmm^jmiti ^guumi mrt^mA kirn, mmmUmm AsMteg bi«
•fiMi, (Ml tlMMii^ ^nh^ t«i mUmI hit liiMfglrti.

V ;^ THE PEARL FOREST. 21[>

Kight is coming on ; you are free, and I will then tell you which
direction to take. You must try to put these butchers o£f their
guard." ■':: - - - ■ ^;./:; f^}/-;-,-. -■;:;"^-->^^/- ■ ;:

"I will not leave you, father ! "

"You must, my child. Better you should wander in the
woods, at the mercy of the wild beasts, than that you should
remain in the power of Salvador."

" I know what he wants of us, and I am ready to give him
my life to save yours."

" I will not hear of that, Lola. My life is nothing ; 3'our
happiness is everything, and I will not let you become the wife
of a man you can never love. Y^'es," added the Spaniard, fiercely
knitting his br j*ws, " I would rather know you were dead than
see you unhappy."

" But, father, I assure you I can never be unhappy, as long
as you are living near mo. Don Salvador is a Christian, after
all ; he will never think of separating us."

" Do not talk like that," said Don Anastasio, bitterly. *' You
btHX)me the companion of this brigand! "

" We are at his mercy," said Lola, sadly.

** Let iiji pr»^%" Maid tb^^ ^i^nianL '* Gud i» jw«t, and I tru»t
in Him.'*

Tbe sbad<M of night gmdnally cIomcmI over tlit; iurtni. Don
Anaatoxio liMt<nt <1 intcntl y Ut overy Miund ; be hopfn] that Imdro

;bi oi»fiif» tiiH'Xjrti tsMliy to fJt»iiv«»r tbeni. I^Ua nhart^i !^r

»rN hopfifi; Ifiit Ntill mo many b<«ttrM had paiwed urnm^ thn

S^^jaii }umI dtiiM|>{>« ;«f<-<l, that tAm bail anxtonit inii|pyiii|pii S«at

#MMi kann m%%h%, iiave Im&1I( ti him. fiJM^r ««« waitifiK for

HMnmim^' Tiiribto bad tobl ih»m% m mmm iS^mm vmm^ ami iImi

ai^ yc>t diiadliiiL to m«< tba mtm vfOM w^bmm

Thm mmm ImicI tkai hm iUvciy U^mmHtm !» ■■ kf la ffa»

220 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

"I hope, senora, that my servants have "behaved politely
towards you ? "

"Senor," replied the young girl, "I entreat you to give
orders that my father may be freed from his fetters."

" Now as ever," said Salvador, " your desires shall be my
commands. One word, however," added he : "I ought to tell
you that my reason, in having recourse to violence, was to get
possession of you."

Lola blushed.

"I know," said she, "what you require of me, and I am
ready to make any sacrifice in exchange for my father's liberty."

" That is the way to speak, although the word sacrifice is
somewhat harsh," replied Salvador. " But perhaps you are not
awave that I have asked your hand of Don Anastasio ? "

" My father and I are ready to give up all our rights to the
property you now occupy. We only ask one thing in exchange
— the liberty of returning to our country."

" You do my gallantry little honour," replied Salvador.
" Those possessions, which you seem to think are uppermost
in my mind, I am willing to share -mth j'ou, if you will consent
to be my wife."

Lola leant against her father, whilst he fiercely exclaimed —

" Never ! "

" You Bj)eak too quickly," said Salvador, frowning. " You
always «M?m to forget that vuu aro in my j^jwer, and that yotir
life dejiendM ujMjn one of luy gehtnret*."

*' Strike, tlien ! " iriinl the SiMiriianl ; " tako my Ufu.aiiUH) it in
powerleaii to «l«'f«nd my child.'

I>4a ]>la(ed licfM-lf lietwc-tubitlviiAlor and her &iili€*i', li«r fao*

lor," «u«i «hi% with Nil ^ffi^ " borif ia my ha»<l , iii» tut
twm tu hurn^ your itrmMm.**
•« Hi- Hill f ** <«iMI Dmi AMirtaMa.

Th«^ H)imIm«» tmi9 turn cribit* U» Imm Um i^t4«. tfU hm
mm UmMmg m4 hB Ml ImA mhtm^l Thm liMppjr
Mtm tiimtmi 4hi mtMm Im 4bi||lrt»r wuwM hmm tmi^ iut
Mm tet mtmrHrnhm idiMi it «mmI H. WIm^! «m flua

^ • THE PEARL FOEEST, 221

pure, loving child, this noble creature whose heart and mind he
had helpec to form, was she to become the wife of a robber, of a
murderer ! The prisoner bowed his head, and his breast heaved
with tearless sobs.

" Here is my hand," repeated Lola.

" Upon my soul ! this is something like, at last," cried
Salvador, for a moment abashed by the young girl's dignity and
surprised at seeing his desires so quickly realized. " Holloa \
you fellows there!" cried he to his companions; "three cheers
in honour of your mistress."

As he spoke he took Lola's hand and drew her towards him.
She tried to free herself.

" Sefior," said she, " my father is still a prisoner."
" Patience, senora ; everything in good time. 'Pon my
honour ! that pale face, those brilliant eyes, and rumpled curls,
only add to your beauty."

" Leave mo alone ! " said Lola, with a tone of annoyance.
"I am not your wife yet, seuor."

"Who can prevent you, then, from being mine? Hang it
all ! Toribio, we made a mistake in sending that sermonizing
old heritiit to hell ; he would have been able to bless our union
on the 8i)ot."

On hearing this cynical confe»4ion of a sacrilogious crime, Lola
reooiled with horror, aud almost Mucceeiied in freeing her liand
from Salvador's grasp.

" For the lovo of your raofhcr, icnor,** cried she, " \mw% bm
iImm ; iiATe a little n^Mfiect for me."

** Wbodaro be di«rt«i»c«tfiil to yon ? ** resnmed the hriii;and.
** Wtt mMtA k»vo a pn<Mit to unite im, ju»t k» omk* yuur outuK^iifti^'te.
Tkm'i \m aUnMd; \hm thing iihall \m doMi to^murruw. Hmti-
whilo, wlukt powMP on «ftrih cati preireiit ftm iNMKNMiif v wifu '
Uu ytm iioiiii* #Mm. (kit I n^mll my 'no' btiM* tk» iter ? "
A« iM if«b«, i»ivad<« W0IUI4 Ue MM rwnid tfc* fMMf girl.

l» girt mm tte fmik§km, Ai llni tmmm^ ik^ lim^ «■§
mA iiiwiiiif, l«na»i mmA tkmif, m «Mi kli ^m to

222 MY RAMBLES IN TEE NEW WORLD.

At the same moment Isidro, armed with the long knife, sprang
out of the thicket. He stumbled against Don Anastasio, cut the
cords with which the Spaniard was bound, and rushed up to
Salvador just as the latter fell forward on his face. Having
seized a pistol, Toribio discharged it at the Indian ; but before
the brigand could fire a second shot, he was knocked down and
pinioned to the ground by the terrible cutlass. Another shot was
heard, and a third brigand fell.

Directly Don Anastasio was free, he tried to run towards his
daughter ; but his stiffened limbs prevented him from stirring.
He was fired at by one of Toribio's men ; then, seeing the fourth
pointing his pistol at Lola, the Spaniard sprang on to him and
pushed him over the precipice. At that moment Methal issued
from the wood; and having got possession of a pistol, Don
Anastasio was about to fire it at the brave Indian.

" Stop ! " cried Isidro ; " it is a fr-end."

Scarcely had Jose's son finished these words, when ho fell
down beside the tree against which he was leaning. Toribio's
ball had entered his breast.

Lola, her father, and Mothal ran up at once to the wounded
man. His eyes were closed, his teeth clenched, and his earb deaf
to their words of pity. Picking up a gourd, Don Anastasio
bathed his foreliead, and tried to make him drink.

" Isidro ! Isidro ! " iej)eated Lola, continually.

The Indian oiKJued his eyes and gazed intently on the young
girl.

" Fly," rnnH ho, Knddonly, " fly ! Oh, M^'thal, thou wilt bury
at beside my fHth«r ! "

** You will live," Maid Lola, rftming bin hoad Aiid retting it on
her knee.

»* Fly ! " reptited he.

** Our im«imiai ant no longer to Iw fenratl, throtigh yow li0l|^
iMdro."

** U lhf»t tr«««?" hm Mb d.

** It b Utvm" n^taA Wilfcil iiiad BfeiK 4wittMf,i tugetlii^.

THE FEABL FOREST. 223

knees, and seemed to be going to sleep. In a low voice Metlial
told of his companion's forced marches and dreadful anxiety.

•' Brave heart ! " said Don Anastasio. " Grant, merciful
Father, that he may live ! " added the Spaniard, raising his eyes
to heaven.

"No," said Isidrc , suddenly cnening his eyes; "better far
that I should die."

He asked fur water. Don Anastasio and Methal hastened to
fill the gourd. Isidro again spoke in such a feeble voice that Lola
was obliged to lean forward to hear him.

" I am happy here," said he ; " very happy."

He was silent for a moment, and then continued.

" The birds sing, the sun shines. I see over yonder the great
blue sky. It is there where the spirits go, there where mj' father
and mother are waiting for me. Before many minutes eternal
slumber will have closed my eyelids ; but my spirit will not want
these poor eyes. Live happily, senora, and think sometimes
of poor Isidro; he had notliiiig but his life to give you, and ho
has given it."

" You will live, Isidro ; you will live with my father, and
me.

" I would rather die .... I should have too much to
suifer . . . ."

ITiese last words were pronoinieed ho low that Lola could
liardly hear them. Two tears ftjll from her eyeM on to I«idro'a
brow, HK in' again lay motioiileM«. M«'*thal came up, ami calle*!
Inn friend by name.

** Who calJu me?" ackeil the young man; ami half mtMing
liiiiiM>lf, h« addfxl, *' I am or<niiiig, father; I am <^miing."

Tiien ho fiill Imck on the gr<'und arid esptre«i.

A few dajM Ut^r. I>on AiMNUiiiu Utnk \ummm'nm of fain UniU,
Slid apfMitntm) Methal hin MtewartL

i'tvmm% the PmtI Mountnin imc? day. I mam hfihtmm vpsft
a white marMtt mmm. A riiM-boKk, tlM' Indtan • &Tonrite ^i^mb,
«tt#wiiM[di ii«ll roam) the ctrMa,MMl mmmtd itat d! mmam^ wil^
^lii 9 mm\ WiWttd $*mmTm, 'Vht^ Mirnn— t hnm no fi iw iiyrtiK.
t fMitaMHi WKf fgKdm skmi U.

224

MY RAMBLES IN TEE NEW WO ELD.

" Isidro and his father lie here. Dona Lola Vega had this
cross erected." y

"Why? Who was this Isidro?"

My guide looked at me with surprise ; then, being convinced
of my ignorance, he told me of the young Indian's tragic end.

•' Dona Lola," added he, finishing his story, " refused to marry
for a long time. She died a year ago, and it is of her son, Don
Isidro Lopez, that we are going to ask hospitality this evening.'*

': ,?-

THE TUXPANGO CASCADE.

■o«

The sick child — The Etscamela river — The fox — The cascade — A tiger.

To the rij;ht of the road loading up from Cordova to Orizava,
through the Cordilleras, stretches a forest -whose gigantic trees
Hcem to defy the pioneer's axe. During my stay at Mexico, I
amused myself with catching insects on the outskirts of this
virgin forest, and it was here that I collected most of the hymen-
optera which I gave to tlir Museum of Natural History at
Paris. One day, having entered the forest further up than
iiHUal, I unexpectedly met with an Indian and his wife. The
man was very plain ; hut his companion, alxmt fift<'en years old,
had not yet Ix-eu di«figure«l nor deformed by the rough work
wliich falls to women of her raee. .She was cturrying a littW
child in a ajtUm ithawl tie<l aerof-H her i-hi-wt,

** May iUal chase the Mer^tcntM from th^ j^Oth!'^ wud tba
liidian. gnnting me.

** Am! iiuiy ile maitUr thij«f wklksmml" Rfj^-«l I,a<3flsdlbg
ii(iM»UKUiii tormnla.

The Iiidinit woman mud mithing, bat her large ejm «l»
il Hi" .i! ^ .i;i\< iy.

** I kmnr htm," mid abe to km hmlmml, pstelifig m
\y to loe with hrr tepiP. *" B» M Om H^ (4m^m^'

•iN» JFMI tmm, wife ?*

226 MY B AMBLES IX THE NEW WOULD.

of her cotton shawl, uncovered her child, who v"^s crying, and
held it out to me, saying, in a supplicating voice —

♦' He is ill. Cure him."

I sat down at the foot of a tree, took the little one on my
knees, and after having examined it, and questioned the young
mother, I advised her to use some simple remedy, the only
medicine attainable by the Indians. I was overwhelmed with
thanks and blessings from the young couple, when I said that
the child could, and would, get better. After having taken
some food, which quieted its cries for the moment, the little
invalid was again wrapped in the shawl, and put back upon its
mother's shoulder.

" Where does this path lead to?" I asked of the husband.

" To Tuxpango," replied he.

" Do you live at that village ? "

*' No ; my cabin is near the fall."

"What fall?"

*' The fall of the Escamela river."

" Then does not the Escamela follow this level ? "

" Yes ; but in front of Tuxpango it falls from the top of a
mountain into the plains below."

The inhabitants of Mexico, either from carelessness, or use,
are bo indifferent to the beauties of their country, that I had
never heard anything before of the Tuxpango Cascade. I
(juestioned the Indian minutely, and the description he gave mo
•'xcited ixiy curiosity.

Indians generally measure diKtances by the time it takes
them to go from one place to another ; thus I askeil ujy new
friend how many hours it would tiike to reach hiH cabin.

'• Not more than one hour," be replied.

•' Would you like m<» to go with you?"

Th(; Indian hxikcNi at hiJt wife an though to contatt her.
TlieiM' fMior p« i.pb' liv«j in dintriiMt of everything. I wa#i ariuetl,
iuhI my <%}ui\mutini rMrruaX no Wi*afKm, not «-v«ti ih** nhort daggtfr,
without wliiih nmrenly any on** wouhl vcjituru in ih*sm^ wuoAii,

•' Iki UH you IJk'f," h«; at ltt*t j< j-lM-d.

" i«i m jjj^ *M, tkra. Whvti wi; tdu;t jpt oat af tkm tuxm\ w«

THE TUXPANGO CASCADE. 227

shall fncl the plant which can euro your child, and I will show
your wife how she is to use it. Carry my gun," I added.

The Indian took hold of the gnn I held^out to him, examined
it, and placed it on his shoulder.

" If we see any game, may I fire ? " he asked of me.

" Certainly ; and then you will give me some dinner."

" If you cure my child," said the young mother, in her
gentle voice, " all that is in the cabin shall be yours."

The Indian took the lead, I followed him, and his wife
brought up the rear.

We walked for more than half an hour through tho forest,
without meeting with anything except a fox.

" Shoot ! " cried I to the Indian, who had shouldered his gun.

He shook his head with contemj)t.

" It is not g"od to eat."

" I want its skin."

It was too late. The animal had disappeared. A hundred
feet further on an armadillo ciossed the path, and was cleanly-
shot. My guide at once skinned the animal, which when cooked
has very much the flavour of sucking-pig.

We took more tlian an hour and a half in reaching the cabin,
and I suspected the Indian of having brought me by tho longest
way in the hope of meeting with more game. Directly we left
the forest I heard a dull roar ; it was the noise of the cascade,
still a quarter of a league distant.

Mj liost's dwelling-place, built of baiaboo, covered witli
cucna-nut matting, stood in the centre of a little garden full
of lettuces, a kind of spinach called acelgcut, potatoes, and
t-ayenne pef [ler plantH. A pig, some lean dogs, half a dozen
hens, and us muny turkeyH, came out to meet u«, and followed us
faniiiiurly into the only nHtm of the cabin. I firHt of all butiied
myiK'lf with |)re|iaring a H<jothing drink for the littl« invalid;
th( fi, still allowing the Indian to (rarry my gir , I followtMi him
in tho dire<'tion of iIm? caMcadc, whilst his wife cjtxiipied h<;r*elf
with ruaiitin)^ the arioadillo, whii.h w»« to farm t\w prini'i{Ml
<li«ii at (/ur diiimr.

We mrniliL'tl rapidly downJiill for twenty mimiUm, I«it from

228 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLIK

wight between castor-oil plants and gigantic thistles. An
unexpected opening in the bushes allowed me to get a glimpso
of the fertile oblong valley of Tuxpango. The large farm-
house bearing this name was on my left, standing out perfectly
white against the background of verdure. On my right hand
were immense sugar-cane plantations, through which long files
of mules were passing backv/ards and forwards. We again
entered the woods, and the noise of our footsteps put to flight a
fine black adder, which we were unable to catch.

This encounter reminded me that it was in the valley of
Tuxpango that the largest t^erpent ever known was caught.
The reptile measured no less than eleven yards, and in the last
century was the principal object in the Madrid museum, where ,
perhaps, it may still be seen.

I thought that we had descended directly into the valley, but
was surprised to find myself at the bottom of a ravine. Instead
of crossing the steep bank facing us, njy guide followed a
narrow stream of chalky water.

On the banks of this stream I picked up petrified branches,
leaves, and fruit at almost every step, and I lost more than an
hour in examining these natural curiosities, whilst my guide
went in pursuit of wild-fowl.

At last we again continued our walk in the direction of tho
cascade, and the roar became more and more deafening. My
Indian understood what he was about. lie led me unexpect-
edly ]>efore the cascade, that is to say, in front of a sheet of
water about six yards wide, which precipitate<l itself into tho
valley from a height of more than three hundred feet, a height
double that of the Niagara Fails.

(.'errainly the volume of tho two IkmIios of water cannot l)o
•.•omi>ure<l ; but thc» Tuxpango Oa« ido would u.ttract mon; than
one touriMt were it not witnattsd in the iK^art of a wild country
at nior*' than two thousand leaguen from London and Parin. Wo
yn'Ti- obligiMl to iitm^Uil ni'iW further, in order tu ■!?<• the water
4k«h forth, then flow nwiftly a»uonji,' i\m nxkn \\m\m\ at the
biittora »7f the rftvint! from <«nttiry t^i i^ntury, and I Vftitnrcr<1
«n a dain|» nUmy \mi\i <^»vt;re«! with reH«»w and nd UHtm.

"THE TIGER SEEMED TO BE CONTEMPLATING THE FALL."

THE TUXPANGO CASCADE. 229

Suddenly my guide seized hold of my arm.

" What is it ? " I asked, turning round with surprise.

"Hush! "said he. "Look!"

I looked towards the spot he pointed to, and saw a tiger
crouching on a rock, and apparently contemplating the fall
attentively. Undoubtedly appreciating the spectacle before him,
the splendid animal yawned, and carelessly stretched himself out
on the rock, which served him as a pedestal.

I turned round to claim my gun. My companion had uis-
■jippeared noiselessly. I was going to call him, but I stopped
myself in time. A gesture, a cry, would have attracted the
enormous creature's attention to me, and I was defenceless. I
looked around me in search of a shelter, and a somewhat keen
Iceling of uneasiness made my heart beat quicker than usual.

For a moment I thought of climbing a tree. Unfortunately,
tlie enemy I dreaded was more nimble than I at that exercise.
I saw him suddenly prick up his ears, lash his sides with his
long tail, and slowly turn his head to the right. He crouched
like a dog on the watch, then bounded towards the forest. At
the same moment a shot was fired. I heard the sound of broken
branches, and wondered anxiously whether my guide had paid
for his temerity with his life, and whether I had not to expect
an attack upon myself.

Ten minutes, which seemed to me a century in duration^
passed. I was hoping every moment to see my guide appear,
<ind, on the other hand, I dreaded meeting the terrible animal
on my way. The slightest movement of the foliage made me
hhudder with fright, and I cursed the fatal good-nature which
had left me without a weapon. In such circumstances immo-
bility adds to the torture of suspense ; thus I made up my mind,
with a thousand precautions, eye and ear on the watch, to get
down to the basin into which the river fell.

This object attained, I quickly climbed on to one of the
rocks surrounded by water, from whence I thought 1 might
brave the enemy. I was hardly stationed there, when the
Indian made his appearance.

_ " Have you had good sport ? " I cried.

230 3IY ItAMBLEH IN THE NEW WOULD.

" No," replied be, in a tone of disappointment. " Your gun
contained nothing but small shot."

" Then has the tiger made its escape?"

*' Yes ; but it will not leave these parts."

" Why not ? "

"Because it is just the time now when the goat-keepors
bring their flocks into the valley, and the tigers know that,"

" Are you not afraid that your game is lying in wait to
spring on us unexpectedly ? "

" Tigers are onlj' brave with a coward."

"A coward? That is exactly what I am," I resumed,
smiling; "and I have no desire to servo as a repast for your
neighbour."

The Indian looked at me for a moment, as though he doubted
the sincerity of my words.

" A hunted tiger is not in the least to be feared," said he.
" He only becomes so when he is wounded ; and this one's skin
is whole."

Eeassured by my guide's calmness, I began to interest myself
with the cascade. Imagine a pei-pendicular mountain, from the
top of which falls a river, several feet wide, in a single body.
Half-way down the fall the water comes in contact with an
enormous jutting rock, which divides it into a thousand little
foaming threads, then allows it to fall into a basin half filled by
tlic detached pieces of earth. Filtering through tlic debris, tlio
water disappears for a moment, and then is seen again a hun-
dred feet further on, flowing calmly and limpidly along.

I stood for a long time contemplating tliis magnificent
spectacle, incased in the most picturesque scenery. The wliite
foam of the little river, falling with mathematical regularity,
sometimes even appearing motionless, stands out against the
background of verdure. The rock over which the first column:
of water dashes, has for thousands of years resisted the formid-
able, ceaseless shock ; but it must certainly one day give way
and roll into the valley. One trembles involuntarily at the
thought.

I was 60 thoroi4ghly captivaled by the magnificent scenery

THE TUXPANGO CASCADK /^*U

before my eyes, that I forgot all about the tiger and my Indian,
when a shot, fired quite close to me, made me start. This t'uiui
my anxiety was of short duration, for my guide reappeared
between the rocks, carrying a magnificent otter over his
shoulder; I then learnt, with much surprise, that tho watern
of the little river abound with fish, at a short distance from tho
place where they execute th"ir perilous leap.

The sun was almost toucning the hill-tops ; his raj's gilded
the cascade, and allowed mo to. admire it imder a new ispect.
My guide interrupted my reverie by saying —

" We must be str^ting. Night is coming on."

I followed him. Just as wo were about to enter tho woofl,
I cast a last look at the fall. It was a side view, and I could
see at a single glance the immense arc described by the column
of water. The sun soon tinged the valley with a rosy light ;
then the twilight deepened, rapidly effacing tho beautiful tints
flickering over tho water. Half an hour later, I was eating a
portion of the armadillo, killed by my host Lud cooked by his
wife, whilst their little child slept peacefully in a cradle adorned
with banana leaves in lieu of drapery.

During tho short evening, the conversation naturally turned
on the subject of Mexican tigers, or jaguars. I learnt that these
fine carnivorous animals formerly infested the valley of Tuxpango.
Good year or bad, there were always a dozen killed at the time
when the goat-keepers returned to Mistequc, or the province of
Aajaca. I expressed my regret that my host had missed the fine
animal he had fired at ; its skin I should have been glad to have
possessed.

When my hosts were about to retire for the night, I stretched
myself on a heap of dry leaves arranged for nic, for I had
declined to make use of tho matting which served my hosts as
beds. The little child was still sleeping peacefully, and its
mother already thought it cured.

*' I like thee," said she, artlessly, kissing my hands. *' Thou
art good : thou dost not despise tho Indians."

" I am a Christian," I answered, *' and tho Indians are my
brethren."

232 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

At nine o'clock in the evening we were all sleeping profoundly.
Not all. I waH aroused by the dog«, the pigs, and the inhabitants
of the poultry-yard, who ciino grouping round me. Towards
the middle of the night I awoke with a start. It seemed to me
that some noise, which 1 could not account for, had disturbed
my sleep. The atmosphere was calm; the hky brilliant with
stars; not a leaf stirred, and the roar of the waterfall was per-
fectly audible in the silence. I quietly lay down again, when
1 thought I heard a distant gunshot. The dogs gave a low
growl; but they soon went to sleep again, and I followed their
example.

When I opened my eyes at break of day, I was not a little
surprised to see my host fastening a magnificent tiger-skin on
tlie ground, by means of wooden pegs.

"Have you been hunting, then, during the night?" I asked
him, getting up.

" Yes," replied ho, " and your gun is a good one."

'• Did you kill that fine creature near the waterfall V "

" I shot him in the valley, near a goat-park."

" Will you sell me the skin?"

" It is for you."

" What pi ice do you want, then, for it ? "

" It is for you," said the Indian, "on condition that you will
stay with us to-day, and continue to cure our child."

The young mother anxiously listened for my reply. She
clapped her hands with joy when she heard mo declare that I
would accept the condition.

" You ought to have awakened me," said I to the Indian,
" I would have gone with you."

" White men havo no patience," he answered. " I have spent
a week on the look-out; and, besides, the night was cold."

" And did you kill the animal the first shot ? "

" To bo sv.re of killing a tiger, and not losing the prey, on©
must file close to it.''

And in fact it is by lying in ambush, and firing close, that
the Indians kill their tigers.

THE TUXPANQO CASCADE. 233

1 spent three days at the cabin, which gave the child time to
«^ot well, and the tiger's skin time to dry. In short, I carried
liorae with me after my excursions the memory of one of Nature's
most marvellous works. If I dared, I would advise my readers,
even those who have seen the Niagara, to pay the Tuxpango
Cascade a visit. There are spectacles as grand; but there is
not one more curious.

THE SERPENT-CHARMER.

Tlic vHimlo — Chei)e Solana — The huaco plant — The trial — Fcarw calmed.

In iny iambics ono day I came by chaneo to Acula, an Indian
village, situated about ten miles from Tacotalpam ; and finding
myself on unexplored ground, I began to make a collection
of liymenoptera. My first search was very successful ; and
delighted at seeing my collection so rapidly enriched with bees
and hornets still unknown in Europe, I determined to make a
short stay at ih^ village.

One morning, on peeling the bark off a gigantic tree which
had fallen down with old age, the Indian who acted as my guide
came upon a nest of rattlesnakes. It was of no use crying to
my companion to sheath his hunting-knife ; ho ruthlessly
hacked to pieces a whole colony of these rare and magnificent
opMdians.

" Why did you want to save these reptiles?" said he to mc ;
"is it not the duty of a Christian to kill them when ho can?
You wanted to keep their rattles, did you not? Well, I took
good care not to spoil them."

" I vanted especially to have two or three of these reptiles
alive," replied I. " Do you know any way of getting possession
of them?"

" No ; I rni not a curado."

" What does that n.ean ? "

" That I am not proof against a snake's bite."

" You are not dift'erent from any one else in that respect."

" You are mistaken. If Chepe Solano had been here, he

TIIK ISKJirENT-CJlAItMEn. lo^

would have got hold of this swarm of serpents without ouo of
them tryinj; to l)ite him."

" Is Chepo Solano a snake-charmer, then ? "

" No ; ho is only a curado, that is all."

" And how does one become a rurado?"

*' By drinking an infusion of htiaco projiared in a certain
manner."

*' Is this preparation a secret, then ? "

"Yes. Chepe Solano got it from his grandfuthei ."

" Will he not consent to tell it any one ? "

" Yes ; but he asks too much money."

" Can you introduce me to Chopo Solano ? "

" Certainl}'. Ho lives next-door to me, and is godfather to
one of my children."

" Did you say that he could handle snakes without any
danger ? "

" I have seen him do it."

" And how much docs he want for Lis secret ? "

" Forty piastres."

" That is not dear," I said, " if the remedy is really cflficacious.
Let us return to the village. You shall bring Chepo Solano to
me, and I will pay for you as well as myself if you get him to
reveal his secret to us."

The Indian seized my hand and kissed it in token of
gratitude ; it was evidently one of his ambitions to become a
curado. In this country, where one risks treading on a venomous
reptile at every step, and where there are annually three or
four victims to the bites of rattlesnakes, to be invulnerable is-
naturally a privilege desired above everything.

The same evening my Indian brought Chei)6 Solano to me.
He was a little old man with cunning features and quick eyes.
He dealt in quack medicines, and gained a good livelihood by
the exercise of this profession.

" Do you know what I want you for ? " said I to him.

" Yes ; only will you have the courage and the patience to
undergo the necessary ordeal ? "

•• In what does the ordeal consist ? "

236 MY JIAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

*' You muBt lie down fur a week, and then drink a pint of
hnaco juice moniinj^ and night."

"And after that?''

" Your body will have a nauseous smell for six months."

*' What then?"

" The day the odour leaves you you will be able to handle
any reptiles without any danger ; they will respect you."

" Very good ; but what guarantee is there for my becoming
■a real curado at the end of six months ? "

" My example."

" Can you handle reptiles ? "

" You shall see me do it whenever you please."

" And how much will the beverage cost me ? "

" Sixty piastres for you, and forty for my neighbour."

The neighbour who had squatted himself on the ground,
«prang up hastily, and looked at me anxiously, dreading lest the
large sum — twenty pounds — should make me change my mind.
I reassured him, and then it was agreed that the following day
we should go serpent-hunting with Chepe. Directly I was
convinced of the curado 8 invulnerability I was to place a
hundred piastres in his hand, and the secret of the preparation
of the huaco juice would be revealed to me.

When Chope came out of the hut which I was living in, he
was surrounded by at least twenty people. They already knew
that my guide was going to become a curado, and every one
congratulated him on his good fortune.

I was aware that liuaco, an aromatic plant of the eupatorium
«l>ecies, is considered by the Indians as a sovereign specific
against the bites of venomous serpents. Huaco is also very much
<?inployed in Mexico as a medicine for yellow fever, and it has
been vaunted in Europe as a specific against cholera. In fact, it
is an excellent sudorific, which is its principal property. As to its
being able to make any one invulnerable to a serpent's bite, this
was a virtue I hardly credited ; but I was very glad to have an
opportunity of seeing in what way an Indian, pretending to be
a curado, succeeded in handling venomous snakes with impunity
,'^nd deceiving his audience.

THE SERPENT-CIIAItMER. 23 T

The following morning at eight o'clock, I saw Chepo coming^
towards my hut, followed by my guide. We started in the
direction of some marshy land, where swarms of snakes were
to be found. Evidently Chepc did not often give his country-
men the pleasure of admiring his invulnerability, for a dozen
men, and as many women, set out after us. We were just going
to enter the forest, when an Indian cried out —

" A yellow snake ! "

And there indeed, near a palm tree, lay a magnificent snake,
about a yard long, with a fine gold-coloured skin. Every one
kept at a distance, for the yellow snake was as much dreaded as
the rattlesnake.

Chepe went up to the reptile, seized it in the middle of its
body, and raised it above his head.

Cries of terror and admiration fell from all lips at the sight
of the reptile winding itself round the Indian's copper-coloured
arm.

I went up to Chepo, and, to the general amazement, seized
the snake in my turn. I had known it for a long while ; it is as^
harmless as the common European snake.

" My good fellow," said I to the Indian, in an undertone,
"you will not gain my hundred piastres by handling such
harmless creatures as these."

He gave me a stealthy look, and entered the wood.

After having walked for ten minutes, we found ourselves in
a thick underwood. Here] and there lay trees crumbling awa}-
with old age, their decayed trunks completely hollowed out.
Suddenly Chepo uttered an exclamation ; a black snake,
a yard and a half long, was twining itself round his body. The
Indian held out the frightful reptile to me ; but this time,
although knowing it was to be feared only on account of its
strength, I instinctively drew back. The Indians uttered a cry
of satisfaction, and with a rapid movement Chepo made two
pieces of the snake, which covered him with blood.

*' Are you convinced ? ", said he to me.

" Not yet," I replied. " You have some knowledge of
snakeS; and this one you have just cut in two is as hannless a»

238 MY li AMBLES IX THE NEW WOULD.

fho yellow snake. You promiHed UKi yon would handle a rattl<'-
Huake." •

"Find one," said the Indian, in a diwdainful tone. ~l

And he sat down on the trunk of a tree, enjoying the
:iidmiration of his countrymen.

Fortunately, the lookers-on who had followed us were ag
desirous as I was to see the mrado struggling with a rattlesnake ;
thus J. was saved the trouble of looking for one myself. A
shrill noise was suddenly heard under a flap of loose bark.

" Iloro it is ! " cried they.

(Jhopc Solano turned visibly pale, notwithstanding his dark
complexion, and he went very slowly towards the trunk they had
[)ointed out to him. It was an exciting moment, for the bite of
a rattlesnake Is fatal. AVIth a slightly trembling hand, Chepo
slowly raised the piece of bark, and I noticed that he did it in
a way to allow of the snakes making their escape ; but in spite
of his precautions, one of the snakes glided on to the imprudent
man's hand, and he fell down, crying out — '"

"I am killed!" .^^g --v

I hastened up to him to cauterize the wound. Unfortunately,
the blood with which the black adder had covered the poor
wretch, prevented mo from discovering the spot. I called for
water, and all the gourds were immediately emptied over
Chepe's arm, who, by a miracle, had escaped the fang of his
terrible enemy. He gradually recovered his self-possession, and
began to talk in a language I did not understand.

I kept myself In the background, not wishing to appear to
make fun of the curado's discomfiture. I declared myself satis-
fied, and told him I would speak with him on the subject later
on. He went away, followed by the sight-seers, and I resumed
my search fur insects with my giilde.

•' Do you still believe in the invulnerability of curados ? "
I asked him.

" Certainly," ho replied. " Hid you not hear what Chepo
told us?"

" I heard, but I did not understand."

" Well, the Invulnerability lasts ten years exactly. Now

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THE SEBPENT'ClIAttMER. 239

Chepo forgot that at nine o'clock it was ten years since he had
taken the Imaco ; that was how he was able to handle the
yellow and the black snakes withont any danger ; but the time
of invulnerability had just expired when he wanted to take up
the rattlesnake."

Every one in Mexico has seen the Indian curados handle
venomous snakes gratis. I have often laid down a hundred
jiiastres to enjoy this spectacle, and have always won my money
l)ack, which proves that among savages, as well as among civil-
ized beings, there are credulous people and clever conjurors.

THE DEAD CITY.

CHAPTER I.

Bishop's River — Indian cooking — Eulalio and Celestin — The king of vul-
tures — A newly married couple — Wedding-feasts — The cotton plants —
Wild turkeys — An escort of alligators.

On the 20th of July, 1860, beneath a hhie sky, with a gentle
breeze from the Gulf of Mexico faintly rustling tlirough the
foliage of the trees, I was led with great pomp by three of ii\y
friends down to the boat which I had hired from the head
fisherman in Cosamaloapani, with the intention of exploring
the partly unknown course of the Oljispo.

The Eio Obispo (Bishop's Eiver) mingles its bluish waters
with the usually muddy stream of the Papaloapam, at the
village of Amatlan. No one in Mexico knew the exact source
of this fine stream; they knew vaguely that it passed through
lakes, plains, and forests, but no one could say precisely where it
came from. During mv stay in Mexico, I often hunted along
the picturesque banks of the Obispo, watching for tapirs or
otters, and always puzzled by the enigma of its calmly flowing
waters, down which a palm or an ebony tree would some-
times float. A river without a source ? This idea pursued me,
and sometimes even disturbed my sleep. My insatiable curiosity
could not rest.

I had more than onco consulted the old Spanish authors on
the subject of this mysterious river, especially the learned
J?^ranciscan monk, Juan de Torqueraada ; but the good man says
no more about it than does his compiler, the Jesuit Clavigero.

THE DEAD CITY. 241

The old geographical maps of Mexico do not even condescend to
mark the Obispo. As to modem maps, the most exact bolJl}-
insert its name, Kio de I'Obispo to the right of a little ser-
pentine line, which rejoins that of the Papaloapam, below
Tlacotalpam. These maps know just a little less about tho
matter than I do. It is above, and not below Tlacotalpam, that
the Obispo falls into the Papaloapam ; but this fact, which I can
guarantee, throws no light whatever on tho place where it takes
its rise.

I questioned an old Vaquero, that is to say, one of the cen-
taurs, who are continually scouring the immense sa\ annahs where
lierds of wild bulls pasture. He was considered an intrepid,
conscientious man, and his master's lands extended partly
along the left bank of the Obispo. He informed me that he
had followed this bank for a whole day, making his way
through tho brambles, and that, contrarj'- to other water-courses,
this one grew wider in proportion as it was further from its
mouth, which appeared to me somewhat paradoxical.

I also questioned an Indian of the village of Acula, avIio
was supposed to be a sorcerer, and pretended to cure his
countrymen's sickness by means of plants gathered on the
banks of this mysterious river. At first tho Indian replied
evasively, whilst ho gave me to understand that he had long-
known all about it, but that reasons of a particular kind pre-
vented him telling what he knew. I showed him a piastre,
which only provoked a smile. Two piastres made him quite
serious again. I was obliged to go as far as five to get the
better of his scruples. I then learnt that the Eio Obisjio,
which is a purely Spanish name, passes through forests, plains,
and savannahs, a fact which I rather doubted. I learnt be-
sides, that it took its rise in the Sierra Oajaca, and that it
issued from a cavern with massive silver sides, and that whole
blocks of this precious metal were washed down its course.
These details, added to the description of a diamond rock more
dazzling than the sun, made mo regret my twenty shillings; but
there was no retracting from the bargain.

Finally, I made up my mind to question an old fisherman,

242 MY a AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

who had lived for a quarter of a century on the banks of the
Obispo, where it joins the Papaloapam. Don Bernardo invited
me to dinner, when I partook of two or three dishes, the com-
position of which I dared not inquire into. In one of them there
was certainly turpentine and onions, unfortunately there was not
enough onion, and the turpentine had been too freely used. At
dessert, I was obliged to cnmch some ant's eggs, a sweetmeat I
do not recommend to any one. Whilst taking our coflFee, reclining
luxuriously on a bull's hide which served him as a hammock,
Don Bernardo told me that fifteen years before this time he had
ascended the river for a day and a half, that it was bordered all
along its course by dense forests, and that on the second day
of his exploration he had landed near a hut inhabited by an
Indian from Amatlan. This man, who was about forty, had
committed a murder in the village, and escaped justice by taking
refuge in this solitary place with his wife and sons.

This information was valuable, although it threw little light
on the real whereabouts of the source. Seized with an ambitious
impulse, I formed the project of going myself to the discovery,
and of at last informing the natives, who cared very little about
the matter, from whence came the blue water, the transparency
of which they admired and found so much superior to the chalky
water of the Papaloapam.

As it was a perilous excursion, I was obliged to look out for
a travelling companion upon whom I could rely. I tempted a
French mechanic, an enthusiastic treasure-searcher, by telling him
of the cave with the silver walls, the existence of which thu
Indian sorcerer had revealed to me for the sum of five piastres.
My first words seemed to convince M. Vignon that this statement
was very plausible ; it flattered his favourite dream of finding
the lost riches of the Aztec emperor Monteuczoma. Thus he begged
iiie to allow him to accompany me, asking as solo recompense the
(juarter of the treasure which we could not fail to discover, and
of which I generously agreed to give him the half. This, there-
fore, was the reason of my friends conducting me with great
parade down to the boat which, through a thousand windings,
was to take me to the unknown source of the Obispo.

THE DEAD CITY. 2io

My liltlo craft, made all in ono piece out of the trunk of a
•cedar tree, measured about five yardn fi'om stem to stern and
scarcely a yard in ^vidth. It« flat bottom, gliding on the water
instead of cutting through it, greatly reduced its speed. 1 had
Htoied it with dried meat, maize-cakes, oil, V'negar, wine,
brandy, lead, and powder. My companion had taken caro to
])rovido himself with a mosqnito-net, hammers and chisels to
tlotach the blocks of silver from the cavern, without counting a
dozen sacks intended to hold the precious metal.

We had two rowers ; TJolcstin, an old French sailor, who had
left his ship stationed at Vera-Cruz, and the Mexican mulatto
Kulalio, his inseparable companion. (3ur voyage of discovery
had assumed great importance in the eyes of the inhabitants
of Cosamaloapam, thanks to our two boatme. . A number of
men and women crowded the banks of the j-iver at the time of
our embarkation. The children plunged into the water, and
Hwam round our boat like fishes. All my men being on board, J
sprang into ono end of tlie boat. Eulalio, with a long boat-hook
in his hand, occupied the other. 1 raised my hat and vigorously
pushed off the bank. Our craft launched out in the middle of the
stream, turned round, and was soon caiTied along by the current.
The huts seemed to fly past us. A sudden bend hid the little
village from view, and in less than an hour from our departure,
wo landed at the mouth of the Obispo, in front of Don Bernardo's
<jabin.

Hundreds of black vultures were hovering through the
cloudless sunny sky. These were of the vultur ntratm species so
common in Mexico, and which custom still more than law pro-
tects against all aggression, as a just recompcnso for the service
they render in freeing the towns from the dirt accumulated in
houses, and the carcases of animals, which without them would
infest the streets. A sareoramphun papa, or king of vultures, as
the Mexicans generally call it, took wing a few steps from us.
From its hooked beak, surmounted with a yellow caruncle, tho
use_ of which naturalists have not yet been able to explain,
htmg a strip of meat it had just stolen whilst it was dry-
ing in the Sim. Its cheeks, variegated with j'ellow, blue, and

244 MY U AMBLES LV TlIK NEW WOIiLTf.

violet, oncased in a collarotlo of featliorn of u ])earl-grf;y colour,
resembled the win^8 of a butterfly. It flow Hvviftly upwardw,
making a whiz/ing Hound tlirougli the air witli th<' ytrokoH of its
powerful wingH, and tlien, croHsing tlie river, disappeared.

" There is a good omen fur you," naid ZJulalio : " ho who meets
a condor sees his dearest wisli t'ulfllled."

I looked at the river, at once thinking of itK source ; M.
Vignon turned t(jwjirds liis pile of sacks ; whilst Celestin seized
his gourd full of brandy, crying —

" Let us bo quick and empty it, since it ought to be always
full."

Don Bernardo lived with his wife and two daughtc-rs, and I
was surprised to see no one appear at the door of the cabin,
although a dense line of smoko was escaping from the roof.
Three or four lean dogs came barking round us, and a small tamo
seal dragged itself with difficulty over the sand, trying to
imitate its terrestrial companions by grunting. On reaching
the little house, I saw three or four earthen pots over the fire,
and two old Indian women busy skimming them. I then learnt
that my friend the fisherman was celebrating his daughter's
wedding, that the young couple had received tlu; nuptial
benediction the same morning before daylight, according to the
Mexican custom, and that they were expected to return every
moment. I was about to embark again, rather vexed at not
l)eing able to get a few last words of information as to the route
wo were about to take, when the sounds of merriment were heard,
and five or six canoes camo alongside the bank noor our boat.

Don Bernardo's daughter was a rather pretty girl ; she was
Bcarcely sixteen, but would have passed for twenty in Europe,
where nature is less precocious than in tho tropics. The young
bride had a tall, slight figure, her skin was faintly tinged with
a copper-coloured hue, and, like all her countrywomen, she had
long black hair, largo eyes, beautiful teeth, and small hand«.
She was enveloped in a blue striped cotton shawl, which sho
took off" on landing, and appeared dressed in a simple low bodico
and long petticoat trimmed with three rows of flounces. Her
hair, plaited in thick tresses, a> ns brought over her forehead in tho

THE DEAD CITY. 245

i'orm of a coronet, and ItiHtcned by a Hcmi-circnlur coml), and ono
^>r two red pomegranate blosMonia. From licr earn linng pieccH
of unpolished coral, simply threaded, and alternating with small
gold coins. She wore white shoes, and could hardly bend her
lingers, laden with heavy rings.

Don Bernardo was radiant, adorned in his holiday clothes ;
that is, in a white shirt, blue breeches, tied at the waist by a
belt of red Chinese crape, and magnificent yellow shoes. Ilis
son-in-law, dressed in more modern style, wore white trousers,
with a short linen jacket, and had contented himself with black'
rthoes. With the usual Mexican hospitality, wo were at once-
invited to the wedding-feast, which was to take place about noon j
and this invitation we were ol)liged to accept, in order not to
violate the most elementary laws of Mexican politeness.

The bride, assisted by her sister, offered to each guest some
sugar-cane brandy instead of absinthe, or bitters. Colestin and
Eulalio, delighted at the good luck tliat had befallen them,
disked for a good measure. As for mo, Don Bernardo's daughters
served me all the more generously with the fiery liquid in
])roportion as they wished to do me honour. If I had been
imprudent enough to drink the dose of clungidrito which was
gracefully offered me, I should have been intoxicated before I
liad finished. J pretended to have a coughing fit, which obliged
me to turn away, and shaking tlie gourd that served as a
^vine-glass, 1 managed to spill a good part of its contents on
the ground. Having succeeded in emptying it by occasional
tilts, I returned it to ono of the beautiful Hebes. Vignon, less
honoured than myself, had only a reasonable dose, and found
liimself obliged to drink it.

They then sat down to table, that is, every one squatted
as well as he could on the furs spread out under a largo
sapote trw. A kind of tomato soup was first of all handed
round ; then appeared the famous turkey, with piquant sauce,
the national Mexican dish, called vioU. Woe betide the novice
who, teraptetl by the fine appearance of the gold-coloured sauce,
and by the evident relish "ith which the natives feast them-
selves on it, partakes of this dish without being prepared for it

246 MY BAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

Ly a long appreuticcfihip.. After tho first moiitliful he swears,
that he will never t-uch aiiOther morsel of it, mid with strcani-
iug eyes, swollen lips, and mouth open, ho breathes fiercely to
try and calm tho self-inflicted torments of tho frightful hum.
After a time one gets used to this fiery food, and even findK
it a stimulant to the appetite in a climate where thirst rivals
hunger ; and more than one European, after staying for some
years in Mexico, becomes as fond of the celebrated mole as
any Creole is.

* When dessert came, and sheny was flowing freely, I was
obliged to keep an eye upon my two rowers ; but I was rather
behindhand with them. Tho heat was overpowering, and tho
generous Spanish wine had sent half of tho guests to sleep, witlii
Eulalio among the number. It was about four o'clock when,,
deaf to all remonstrances, and energetically seconded by Vignon,
I succeeded in getting our men back to tho boat. Still Celestiu,
who had already sung one or two French songs to our astounded
hosts, wanted to go back and dance when he heard the sound of
guitars.

Scarcely was Eulalio in the boat when ho lay down full
length at the bottom, and I obliged Celestin to follow his
example ; then, taking possession of tho oars, I succeeded some-
what awkwardly in unmooring our boat. Unfortunately, Vignon
was not more skilful in the art of boating than myself, and
wo had to struggle against the current without making mucli
progress, our boat describing a series of zigzags as fantastic as
though it also had been assisting at the wedding-feast.

All at once, when we had lost sight of Don Bernardo's cabin
for more than an hour, there was a sound of guitars to our right,
and on a bank we were just about to pass, wo saw a group of
the wedding guests. Ten minutes' walking had brought them
to this place, which, through tho winding of the river, we had
taken almost an hour to roach. The mnrried couple, arm
in arm, looked smilingly towards us, and two young girls
sitting near them waved their scarfs, whilst tho guitar
players scraped away furiously on tho bass cords of their instru-
ments. Eulalio having raised his head, and l)egun to talk of

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THE DEAD CITY, 217

landing, I hastily steered tho bout towards the bank opposite
that which tho picturesque group occupied. "With a spring
Avhich almost capsized us, tho mulatto jumped into the water,
and was soon followed by Celcstin. For the moment I was
seriously angry, and I obliged the two swimmers to get back int(j
tho boat. They took up the oars, and, refreshed by their immer-
sion, pulled away vigorously.

It was a day lost ; but in the desert time is largely dispensed
with, and I quickly became reconciled to this annoyance. Wo
passed through the midst of magnificent forests. The dififerenco
of level between the ground and the river was barely a yard,
the banks more often than not being perpendicular. Creepers,
hanging down from the tops of the trees, swept tho surfac(?
of the water, and served as a shelter for the beautiful king-
fishers with their short but powerful wings.

At sunset wo found ourselves passing near a cotton-field,
and we made up our minds to camp there. Mexican pioneers
employ fire when they want to clear the land ; thus the ground
was strewn with charred trunks, from which green shoots were
springing, so fertile and hardy is vegetation in this burning
climate.

Having moored our boat safely, we made a fire at about a
hundred feet from the river, in order to avoid the insects which
already began to annoy us. Night fell rapidly, the sounds died
insensibly away, even the breeze subsided, and the paroquets,
those merciless chatterers, were silent. Two macaws, perched
in a neighbouring tree, and undoubtedly frightened by our fire,
uttered a cry of distress from time to time, which was answered
by the gobbling of a band of wild turkeys roosting in tho
middle of the forest. We meant to get up early and shoot ont^
or two of the beautiful birds imported into France by tho
•Jesuits, and seen for the first time on a French table at tho
Avedding-feast of Charles IX. in 1570.

The wild turkey, or meleagris, has a greenish brown plumage
with golden tints. It has been successfully acclimatized in all
latitudes, and everywhere its flesh is esteemed. The turkey
loses the brilliancy of its plumage in its tamed state, as much

248 MY RAMBLEH IN THE SEW WOULD.

in its native country as in Enrope; but as compensation, its
flesh is more succulent. The Indians who rear these fine birds
about their cabins, call it toiaU, a name which they also give
to cowards.

Towards nine o'clock we were stretched on the ground,
nleeping profoundly. I awakened ray companions long before
daybreak, and the rising sun found us more than three miles
from the place where we had camped, struggling with a swarm
of microscopic flies, and followed by a dozen hideous-muzzled
alligators.

CHAPTER II.

A virgin forest— Alligators — A rough alarm— Wild bulls — A victim —
Paroquets and cardinals — An Indian family — Flies— The lake.

All trace of human life had disappeared ; ancient forest trees
interlaced their lofty branches overhead ; clusters of creepers
were flung in garlands from one bank to the other, forming
cool retreats for the feathered songsters ; grenadillos, or passion-
flowers, wound and climbed round the trunks of the trees,
their blue, red, and yellow flowers producing a fruit very much
resembling red Easter eggs, filled with sweet transparent
pulp. By the side of these beautiful creepers were the dragon
plants, a species of which, with drilled leaves, passes among the
Indians as a specific against the bites of venomous serpents, and
is commonly called adder' s-vcooA. The begonias, with their
panicle-shaped flowers, promised us a wholesome seasoning for
any game we might bring down, especially the brilliant begonia
which owes its family name to Dr. Begon, and the leaves of
which, as much from their appearance as their acid flavour,
greatly resemble sorrel.

Among the trees passing before us, I admired the green
feathery plumes of the royal palms, the cci6a« with their enor-
mous trunks, and seeds enveloped in a fine down used for

TlIK DEAD CITY. 240

luiiking cuHhiong; the inimoHaH with their odorous flowerM and
knotty trunks, and am<jijg«t them fine 8i)ecimen8 of seiujitive
plants ; imjas, melantometf, balMaiuH, and among others the /leml-
Jhe or candle-tree. I5ut wliat lH)tanist could enumerate the
marvellous plants crowding hefore our delighted eyes ?

If in imagination the reader adds to the spectacle of this
luxuriant vegetation, the nir tilled with brilliantly coloured
hutterflicH, dragon-flies, colcopteras, and dipterals, and the sun
shining upon their feathery (»r gauze wings, making all this
corolla of velvet or satin, golden and ruby-coloured, he will yet
have but a faint idea of the splendours of the virgin world near
a water-course in these unknown regions, which, once seen, are
never to be forgotten.

Here and there, Kometimes to the left and sometimes to the
right, were large open glades where hundreds of alligators, with
widely opened jaws, were basking in the sun. A sickening musky
odour warned us beforehand of these encounters, and we rowed
as quickly as j)088ible to get out of the tainted air. As for the
monsters, some of them near the bank turned round slowly, and
glided indolently* into the water, to come and prowl round our
boat. Most of them looked as though they were petrified, and
did not even deign to shut their yawning jaws, so that wo wci'e
able to admire at <jur ease the formidable teeth with which
nature has provided these hideous reptiles. We had on an
average five or six of these creatures always in sight ; they
sometimes followed us with only their eyes above the water. Our
white flesh tempted them, so said Eulalio. In short, the liio de
rObispo has nothing of the bishop about it, and if I had the
authority of baptizing it again, I should certainly call it the
Alligator River,

It wag a singular fact that the river abounded in fish, which
sported familiarly round our boat ; nevertheless, the alligators
must have made a considerable consumption of them. A kind of
carp, with a blue back and pink belly, jumped giddily into our
boat; it weighed about four pounds. Celestin immediately
took possession of it and put it on one side for our breakfast,
which saved us one or two gunshots.

2r>0 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

Towards ten o'clock the heat becaino so imhoarablc that we
were obliged to think of looking for a Bhelter, and allowing our
oarsmen u rest. AVc landed <m the left bank, and having moored
our bark, we entered the forest in search of a cool spot where we
might rest and grill our fish.

While Celestin and Eulali(^ were busy making a fire I
ventured into the forest, taking care to notch some of the trees
as I went along in order to be sure of finding my way back.
Vigiion helped me in this necessary precaution ; for one easily
gets lost in these virgin forests, and death from hunger, thirst,
and exhaustien, or tbe teeth of wild animals, is the terrible con-
sequence of such a misadventure. Thus we walked on, our
hatchets in our hands, listening attentively to every sound.
Cnder the bark of a ceibua, uprooted by a hurricane, I found
five or six enormous insects called longimanus, on account of
the disproportionate length of their front legs, their red shell-
like wings being irregularly spotted with black lozenges, like
the stones of a mobaic. At the same time I was about to
make prisoner of a pretty salamander which I hardly expected
to find there, when an inexplicable noise was heard. I crouched
with my companion behind the fallen tree, and presently
M'e saw a black and white bull coming along at a sharp pace,
with bloodshot eyes, infuriated by a swarm of ox-flies buzzing
round his head. On seeing us the animal looked as though it
would trample us down; but the tnink in front must have
bafiled his evil intentions. He dashed his head against the
obstacle, gave a prolonged bellow, and continued his mad pace.

The presence of such a guest in the forest revealed the
proximity of a savannah, and curiosity led us forward. We had
hardly gone a distance of three or four hundred yards, when, to
our great surprise, we came upon a wide-beaten road, trodden
down by the cattle, and along which all vegetation had been
destroyed. Here and there were a few traces of horse's hoofs.
What did such a sign mean ? Two days later we should have
thought of the proximity of a village or an unknown town ; but
we were still too near Cosamaloapam not to know for certain
that all this side of the river was uninhabited.

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THE DJ'JAD CITY. 2^)]

• Bending forward, we were looking, like Robinson Crusoe, for
the trace of human feet on the moist earth, when a noise like
that which had just startled us was again heard. We thought it
was our new acquaintance returning with hostile intentions, or
a band of monkeys making their approach. The noise grew
rapidly louder; one would have thought that it was a water-
spout devastating the forest in the distance, and we made haste
to fly. Passing close by a cluster of creepers, my companion laid
hold of their strong tendrils and climbed into the tree which
they encircled. I followed his example, for the uproar was
getting louder, and drawing nearer. Tlicrc, breathless and pale,
for we were really frightened, we leaned down anxiously over
the road, wondering what horrible animal we were going to sec.
I uttered an exclamation of relief when I saw a herd of bulls,
their leader having a tawny hide, marked with a star in front.
The wild herd were only on their way to drink, and it was their
daily journey from the savannah to the river that had made the
beaten track which we had been unable to explain.

We had done well to fly. The bulls filed past us by hundreds,
without uttering a sound, and we should have been trampled to
death had we been in their way. We got down noiselessly from
our place of observation and hurried back io our companions, who
were undoubtedly anxious at our long absence. On reaching the
fire I saw the fine fish which had smelt so savoury left to turn to
cinders ; Eulalio and Celestin, our cooks, had disappeared.

Wo went towards the river ; our oarsmen had most likely
been frightened by the bulls and taken refuge in the boat.

** Unless they have been eaten by a tiger," said my com-
panion, smiling.

The joke might well have been a reality, for tigers often
follow the herds of bulls. But neither Celestin nor Eulalio were of
the stamp to let themselves bo crushed without saying a word ;
wo should have heard their cries, or the report of their fire-arms,
if they had been assailed. Nevertheless, 1 was troubled for the
moment when we reached the bank and found the boat gone.

"We must have mistaken our way," I cried.

** No," replied Yignon ; " look."

252 MY It AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

Looking in tlio direction indicated, J saw Celestin and Eulalio
iibout a hundred yards oflf, standing up in the boat, both looking
scared, and listening attentively. On seeing us they came
hurriedly back.

" Whatever has been going on up there ? " cried the mulatto ;
" one would have thought that all the infernal spirits were let
loose."

I told him of our encounter with the bulls, and wo had a
<50od laugh over our mutual alarm. The boat was again
moored ; but just as wo were going back to the fire, a strange
cry, followed by a mournful bellowing, made us turn round. A
young bull, surrounded by alligators, was struggling in the
iniddle of the river, which was dyed with its blood. The same
idea of delivering the poor animal from the monsters' jaws,
led Vignon and me to fire together. The alligators immediately
plunged, but without losing their victim, which disappf^ared
with them. Our balls had skimmed over the butchers' homy
hides, and wo had spent our powder and shot for nothing.

The unusual noise of our shots had evidently frigli toned tlie
bulls, for we heard them bellowing and scampering off at a mad
ji^allop. We again returned to the fire, walking slowly back,
and on the alert in case of any attack. One or two scouts
appeared in the distance, but the sight of them did not trouble
us ; we knew now how to deal with the enemy. It was no less
than an hour before the forest was quiet again, and during this
time Eulalio fried some strips of dried meat for our frugal
meal, the carp being reduced to a cinder. After having eaten,
my companions went to sleep, whilst I amused myself with
tormenting a poor sensitive plant by obliging it to fold up its
leaves. About three o'clock I awoko my men, and the boat
resumed its adventurous course through the midst of the
alligators.

A flock of ducks with black and bronzed plumage passed
•close to us and insured our dinner. Wo killed three of them, but
the last was seized by a crocodile, who snapped it up just as
Celestin was leaning over the boat to take it. At sunset, our
boat was sheltered in a creek, and we put up the mosquito-net

THE HEAI) CITY. 253

ut the foot of a Bapotilla troo, from tho ]»ark of which oozed
a milky giim, very much liked by Mexican women. Tho night
passed without any remarkable incident, and long before dawn
wo were rowing between two gigantic hedges of Howoring
whrubs.

At breakfast time, on approaching a glade in the; forest, we
saw about a hundred paroquets, no bigger than our sparrows.
These charming birds meeting with a flock of cardinals of
fiery red plumage, a noisy rather than murderous batthf
ensued. The glade was sown with maize, which explained
the presence of these little marauders, and revealed Mie
proximity of tho hut of which Don Bernardo had spoken ; so,
notwithstanding the heat — it was nearly eleven o'clock — wo
•pressed forward.

Not knowing how the Indian who was incontestibly lord of
these solitudes would receive us, I kept the boat near tho right
bank of the river. It was not until one o'clock in the oftemoon,
on account of tho numerous windings of the stream, that we
heard a dog givo a low howl, which replaces a bark with those
animals brought up in the desert. Wo were overpowered with
fatigue, and tho sun's rays, reflected from tho smooth mirror
of tho water, almost blinded us.

Two children, about eight and nine years old, with sliuven
heads and quite naked, stood behind the tnmk of a tree, looking
ut us with open-mouthed surj)rise, I called thorn, but they ran
away. A young man next appeared, and then an old woman.

" May God protect thee ! " cried I to the old lady.

" And may He guide thee ! " she replied.

'• Wilt thou show us hospitality ? "

" I have neither bread nor brandy."

'* We only ask for a shelter from tlu; sun."

"How do I know but what you are bad people?"

" We are good Christians," I replied, advancing towu. ds her
alone ; " but we will go on if thou wilt have it so."

"I am a Christian also," replied the Indian woman. " Ho
welcome."

They led us behind the piincipal cabin to a hut with a leafy

-54 MY liAMHLEH JN THE NEW WOULD.

rocf, simply supported by Htakcs driven into the ground. Five
stalwart young men camo up to us, hoou followt'd l)y their wivcH,
4ind at last by an old Indian, the fatlicr of this little colony.
VVc had thought ourselves formidable, but were now obliged
to keep on our guard, being by far the fewest; however, we
•were dealing with honest folks.

After dinner, which had consisted of chickens, with rice and
black beans fried in fat, I offered all the guccts a bumper of
brandy, which at once tied the knot of our frienuship. As soon
iis the sun had gone down, J visited my host's cultivated land.
Three of his sons were married, and the family went in turns
<mco a year across the plains to the Sanctuario, a little villag(j
situated on the right bank of the Papaloapam. There, in ex-
change for tiger's skins, they got provisions of salt, powder,
shot, and all necessary household objects. It must be confessed,
[ should never have thought for one moment that the calm,
good-natured patriarch before me was the murderer whose
history I had heard related.

The old man could give mo no more information than his
sons as to the course of the Obispo river. Not one of th(5
inhabitants of the hut had ventured beyond the great lake
which we should reach in less than an hour. During the
half-century that she had lived in this place, our hostess told
us that ours was the second boat which had dared to venture
thus far. In fact, the following day we should be in totally
unexplored regions, and one does not enter upon such excursions
without some feeling more or less of keen emotion.

In the evening the mosquitos assailed us in such large
numbers, and with such fury, that we were obliged to retire as
♦juickly as possible behind the mosquito-net. But the terrible
blood-suckers succeeded in getting into this shelter ; and taking
the advice of our hostess, we burnt the leaves of a peppor-
plant under our transparent curtains, to the great injury of our
f^yes and lungs. Our hosts themselves were obliged to have
recourse to this expedient, but they were accustomed to the
disagreeable odour which suffocated us. At the time of the
rainy season, they have no other recourse than to take refuge

THE DEAD CITY. 255

under thoir sh(3ltcr a little before HimBot, in order not to bo
literally devoured. One knows what the /iboarable itching
caused by a gnat's sting is : imagine this pain repeated a
hundredfold and without intermission, and you will have some
idea of one of the terrible tortures endured by travellers in
foreign countries, a torture which often intimidates the bravest.

One cannot sleep much under the action of a th(jusand venom-
ous needle-points ; thus we were quite ready to start at day-
break. The Bun, red and lustreless, shrouded by a crimson mist,
appeared over the tree-tops in front of us, and we knew what
overwhelming heat we were to expect. The i)aroquets, awaken-
ing with us, were chattering on all sides, whilst the cardinals,
perched on the shrubs like scarlet flowers, uttered their little
rarinotonous cries. I admired a cross-bill with olive-coloured
body, brown neck, and eyes surrounded with a circle of golden
fcf/thers, which fluttered quite familiarly near mo. Grallics
flow over our heads on their way to swamps. The air was
already burning, and the dry, motionless loaves, when they
should have been sparkling with dew, hung lank and withered
on the parched-up branches.

Colestin's noso was swollen from the sting of an insect, and
his companion, with his eye half closed, could scarcely aflford to
make fun of him ; Vignon and I not being seriously attacked
yet, except on the cheeks, which did not add to our appearance.
Our hosts would not let us go before wo had taken some coffee.
These good people could not understand the curiosity which led
us to bravo perils and unheard of sufferings, and that with an
object as futile as the discovery of the source of a river near
which we had no intentiim of living.

♦• May God protect thee from the fall of a tree ! " said our
aged hostess to us.

" May God protect thee against the alligators I " said her
husband.

*' Beware of the tigers," said the oldest son.

" Guard against the flies ! " cried the younger women to us.
" Mind the serpents do not bite you ! " cried all the children
to us in their turn.

2r>n MY liAMULES LV THE NEW WOULD.

We bowed to each of the parting Halutatioiis well calculated
to induce us to turn back.

The flies, which it seemed strange to see so sociable with
each other, are first of all gnats — there are twenty species of
these — then the ox-flies and moyocuiles^ pretty diptera, with
gauze wings tinted like mother-of-pearl.

At last we set off, and an hour later came out into the
immense lake filled with tortoises and alligators, among which
Ave should be obliged to row in order to find the mouth of the
Obispo again.

CHAPTER III.

Liiko Vignon — A serious misadventure — The bird of the sun — Discourago-
mont — La terre tempifrife — The cascade — Excursion on foot — The black
tiger— The Dead City.

With the exception of the lake of Catemaco, on whose bank«
I dream of going to live some day, I know nothing more
incturesquo than the immense lagoon which suddenly oi)ened to
our view, and to which I gave the name of my travelling com-
panion. Lake Vignon, capriciously shaped, and surrounded
with forests, is an immense sheet of water, fed by the overflow
of the Obispo. It is about five or six miles in length, and three
or four miles wide. Nearly in the centre is a flat, oblong
island, on which the alligators bask themselves in the sun.
destroying all vegetation. Further on it seemed to me there
was a heap of brown rocks, and thinking to find traces of
volcanic eruption there, I steered the boat towards this point.
But as we advanced, I saw the rocks sink away, roll one over
the other, and disappear into the water without making a
ningle l)ubblo, and then float peacefully along. The dark
masses were alligators. Having come within fifty yards of
this army of monsters, we resisted the temptation of sending a
few shots after them. One impudent fellow, swimming slyly
near us, suddenly put his horrible jaws on to the edge of the
boat, and just missed snapping off Eulalio's arm.

THE DEAD CITY. 257

" He takes thee for a truffle," cried C61e«tin, raising his oar
rapidly, and pushing the reptile back into the water.

The mulatto termed himself with a hatchet, then standing
up in the boat, bravely defied the enemy ; I ordered them to
row, and the boat sped away from the dangerous island.

♦* It is the first time that an alligator has ever been dis-
respectful to me," said Eulalio, as seriously as possible ; '• and
I am very sorry I was not able to give him a lesson."

"The Cosamaloapam alligators are civilized," replied Celestin ;
" they have been to school, whilst these are country boors, whom
we shall do well to distrust."

In fact it was agreed that we should watch these monsters
more closely than ever, and that we should beware in future
of dipping our hands into the water to cool them.

The whole morning passed in looking for the mouth of the
river. Every moment we lost ourselves in some canal with no
outlet, scaring away pink spoonbills, egrets, ducks, and anhingas,
whose long necks, when the birds hide their bodies in the grass,
resemble the undulations of a serpent. Every quarter of an
hour we turned back, to begin our futile work a little further
on. We found but one compensation for this loss of time :
the trees sheltered us from the sun's scorching rays.

After making a scanty breakfast, and having taken a few
hours' rest, we again began our explorations. When the sun
hud reached the summit of the forest, we were still wandering
about at random. Our ardour increased, for we felt an inexplic-
able repugnance to passing the night on the lake. If chance
had led us to the right bank instead of towards the left, a great
deal of our trouble would have been spared. Just as we were
about to sound the inlets of a large bay, I thought I saw the
trunk of a tree floating in the distance. There was a difference
of opinion on board on this account ; but it was soon acknow-
ledged that I wag right. I gave the rowers a bumper of brandy
to raise their spirits, and after that we quickly shot across the
bay. Suddenly a violent shock nearly capsized us. We had
stranded on a mud-bank.

Thiu misadventure put a finishing stroke to our good humour.

•

258 Mr RAMBLE8 IN THE NEW WORLD.

To remain on this mud-bank in the middle of the bay, was to
condemn ourselves to fearful torture, perhaps to a rough en-
counter with the alligators, who, when night came on, would be
sure to surround us. I got into the water. My companiono
followed my example, and all four of us pushing the boat, we
succeeded in getting it out of the mud. Going cautiously along
the side of this mud-level, we were speedily convinced that
it reached to the land ; and this new deception discouraged my
companions.

Two alternatives presented themselves: to go back for a
mile or two, or simply land among the palm-trees which rose
before us. Suddenly struck with an idea, I steered the boat so
as to strand it again, then urged the men to help me in pushing
it before us. Thanks to its flat bottom, the boat glided easily
along. A quarter of an hour later the bar was crossed, and we
rapidly advanced towards the place where we had seen the tree
floating. It was with cries of joy that we at last found ourselves
between the banks of the Obispo, which we recognized by its
bluish waters. In less than an hour, protected by three fires,
we were sleeping soundly.

Paroquets flying in couples over our heads, undertook to
awaken us the next morning. Before long, the air was alive
with wild woodland notes, soft cooings, blithe songs, and plain-
tive melodies. A flock of wild ducks, with crested heads,
alighted about twenty yards from us, whilst a caurale — commonly
called Bunbird — with a brown and grey plumage, striped in
curving lines, reminding one of certain night butterflies, settled
almost at my feet. Touched by the simple confidence of the
graceful bird, I resisted the temptation of enriching my collec-
tion at its expense, and I let it look for its food in peace.

I was less magnanimous in dealing with a poor spoonbill.
I had long known the delicate flesh of this heron, and its black
crest, falling back like a plume, added to the temptation. A
long fluttering of wings answered to the gunshot, which rendered
me possessor of the spoonbill ; but neither the pink flamingoes,
nor the curlews, nor the ardeae, nor the ducks around us, flew
away. A second shot, fired at a pretty water-fowl, commonly

THE DEAD CITY. 259

called »urgcon-hird, was hailed with a chorus of hoarse cries.
Nevertheless, the herons philo80[)hically continued their fishing,
not even deigning to raise their heads, or put down the leg
folded away under their plumage.

Just as we were about to continue our way, a deer appeared
on the opposite bank. After looking at us for some time, the
graceful creature stooped to drink. It would have been useless
slaughter to kill it, for we could not keep its flesh. It browsed
for a moment, then looking at us agnin with its large black eyes,
went back slowly into the foresst. We were more surprised than
I can tell at the confidence shown by the inhabitants of the
lagoon ; the pour animals had evidently never been hunted, and
did not regard us as enemies.

This and the following day were spent in sailing under
flowery bovvers, through swarms of dragon-flies, butterflies, and
brilliantly plumed birds. Nevertheless, I remarked that the
tropical plants disappeared in proportion as the vegetable nature
became changed. On the sixth day of our voyage it was very
evident that the trees of the forests were of quite a different
species from those which had bordered the river on our de-
parture. No more creepers or shrubs, no more alligators prowl-
ing round our boat. In revenge, clouds of insects, ox-flies and
gnats, followed us like a ravenous pack of hounds. Our faces
and hands were black and blue, and we could get no sleep. My
two oarsmen bitterly complained, wanted to turn back, and in-
cessantly called for brandy, which lessened their sufferings by
numbing their senses. But it was a dangerous palliation, and a
remedy which I permitted to be used very sparingly ; for when
the intoxication was over, the torments were more intense than
ever, and complicated with fever.

Vignon, with dreadfully swollen eyelids, could hardly see,
and nothing less than the prospect of the incalculable treasures
of Monteuczoraa could have upheld his courage. He sometimes
imparted his enthusiasm to Celestin, by promi.-ing him a few
million pounds, which made the old sailor profuse in his thanks.
As for Eulalio, he was less cr^ulous, and in virtue of the proverb,
as true in America as in Europe, that a bird in the hand is better

260 M7 RAMBLE8 IN THE NEW WOULD.

than two in the. huah, he often aslted to be allowed to barter hia
fiituf o treasure for a drop of brandy at once.

The river, now wider than deep, seemed to justify the state-
ment that the Obispo grew wider in proportion as you drew near
iU source. We could not help feeling enraged with the forest
which bordered it, hi^' g all view from us, and preventing us
getting any idea of the way which we had still to traverse
before reaching the mountains. Towards the evening of the
sixth day, we noticed that the banks became higher, and the
aspect of the Koil was again changed. Sapotillas, elxjny-trees,
and pepper-plants, were insensibly replaced by black oaks,
larches, and cedars. The ground became undulating, a few hills
were in sight, and the heat was less oppressive. In the after-
noon of the seventh day, when we were least thinking of it,
our boat ran aground at the foot of a cascade.

Nothing c(;uld picture our dismay on seeing the water flow
from rock to rock with a dull noise, which till then we had
thought was the wind swaying the tops of the pine-trees. Our
voyage, thus abruptly interrupted, vould only be continued under
unforeseen conditions for which we were ill prepared. For the
first few moments, happy at feeling ourselves at last free from the
insects, which had so severely hara-sed us, we thought of nothing
but taking rest. A fire was made about two hundred yards from
the cascade, at the foot of a rock covered with moss, and under
the shelter of a cedar-tree several hundred years old.

In the evening, following the banks of the river now
transformed into a torrent, I climbed the hill, from the summit
of which it fell not in one sheet, but by stages. Having
reached the top, I saw wooded slopes before me, and the Obispo,
calm and tranquil, flowing out of a dark mountain gorge. I
turned round, and my eyes wandered over an immense horizon.

The forests stretched in every direction as far as the eye
could reach, their black undulating outline seeming to mingle
with the horizon in the sun's dazzling rays. To the right was
a vague bluish line, faintly indicating the chain of the great
Cordilleras. In front of me was a new line of mountains
mingling with the clouds, and then the peak of the Orizava with

THE DEAD CITY. 261

its eternal nnow. I looked round me in vain for a trace of
humankind. The trees which eirrounded mo, gigantic, mohsy,
and straggling, were as old as the world, and more than oiic,
conquered by time, was lying on the ground half hidden under
a balmy shroud of flowering ivy.

Vignon came and stood silently beside me. A gentle breeze,
rustling the tiny leaves of the cedars, made a mournful sound,
and seemed to be complaining to the cascade. A falcon flying
overhead uttered a hoarse cry ; we saw the swift bird dart over
the forest, describe large circles, and then swoop down upon a
victim invisible to us. The sight of a gay band of stiuirrels
roused us from our reverie, and helped us to shake off" the
irresistible sadness which had fallen over us — a sadness full
of charm, which I cannot recall even now without a vague
melancholy feeling.

Oh, happy hours vanished for ever ! is it my youth that I see
again through this past which btill entrances me, and which I
love to recall? Oh, piofound terrors of the great woods,
majestic silence, intoxicating splendour of light and life! what
power is yours, that one forgets the anguish, sufferings, and
death, which must be braved to get a glimpse of you ; that the
eye is unweariedly dazzled by your enchanting grandeur !

The following day we set out, lightly equipped, to recunnoitre.
We had taken care to hide our boat under a heap of branches,
and it was our intention to follow the course of ihe torrent as
far as the nature of the ground and our resources would allow.
Beyond the gorge we found a savannah of high grass, through
which the river flowed peacefully. It took us a whole day to
cross this valley, and at nightfall our fire was burning brightly
at the foot of a hill, on which grew rare species of broom.

At daybreak we were on our road again, climbing bare hill-
sides and descending valleys encumbered with rocks. Here and
there were stunted aloes, mimosas with rare foliage, and yellow
dried-up grass. The Obispo, in its foaming, headlong course,
was dashing over enormous rocks of granite; the luxuriant
vegetation of the preceding days had disappeared, and an arid
inhospitable desert, except in the damp soil of the banks of the

262 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

torrent where ferns grew profusely, rendered our excursion
extremely fatij^uing.

We determined to shoot small birds to stock our larder, to
the great loss of powder and shot, for it requires more than a
dozen larks to satisfy the appetites of four famished men. This
sport, considering the scarcity of the game, made us lose much
time, which we would rather have employed in pushing forward.
Our best sport, from a natural history point of view, was that of
a Casaican calyhS, a kind of bird of paradise, a native of New
Guinea, and a cotinga with carmine plumage. But, without
being epicures, we should have much ^ireferr^jd one of the fat,
homely-h'oking turkeys, which had enlivened us two days ago
with their loud gobbling, to these gaudily plumed birds.

We were in the heart of the Cordilleras ; ascending and
descending, rolling down endless slopes, and having no other
horizon than that of tlie mountain-top we had to cross. Some-
times we had to follow the torrent for whole hours through
obscura dar^p gorges. The crocodiles were left behind, but
there were :jv arms of serpents, and although mostly of a harm-
less kind, we were nevertheless obliged to advance cautiously.
Once or twice wo were thoroughly disheartened, and it was
seiiously a question ';f turning back, for nothing whatever in-
dicated the approach of moie varied vegetation, and consequently
the return of abundance.

For two days more the torrent itself served as our guide. We
had never left its banks except when the nature of the gronnd
obliged us to make long detours ; but suddenly a ]ialisade of
rocks rose before us, over which the Obispo, majestic and magnifi-
cent, precipitated itself from a height of more than a hundred
and sixty feet, and fell with wild uproar into an immense rocky
tunnel.

We held counsel. Vignon, with un swollen eyes, saw the
tieaeures he coveted more cle<rly than ever, and was for con-
tinuing our onward march. This was also my desire. Never-
theless, the insuperable barrier obliged us to reflect well. It
might extend so far that our powder store would be exhausted
in shooting larks, and what would become of us among these

<
>

o
<:
u

u
oi
o

THE DEAD CITY. 20

inhospitable rocks without ammunition or provisions? It is
true, an hour's march would bring us into a part abounding
with game. I put an end to the discussion by venturing amongst
the gigantic piles of rocks which shelved off to my right, and
gave us some idea of chaos.

On my way, I amused myself with watching a charming
colony of martins, which were flying over our heads with little
frightened cries, and hastening back to their nests in the clefts
of the high cliff we were trying to scale. Sometimes a kite
appeared on the scene, and the martins would hover together,
ready to offer battle to the terrible bird of prey skimming over
their aerial dwellings with evil designs.

Towards evening, we met with a little black tiger, a kind
of wild cat, the flesh of which is supposed to be good to eat.
Kow was the time to make the experiment. Unfortunately, the
animal, although wounded by Eulalio, disappeared from our
sight. A little before sunset, our fire was made up near a pine
forest ; we might meet with squirrels here, and with this hope
I ventured among the trees. Climbing the steep slopes, I hoon
found myself on a plateau covered with heath. A hare darted
past me. I followed in pursuit, and the sound of the gunshot
which made me possessor of it, drew my companions to the
spot.

Going across the plateau I came out of the wood, and
climbed a slight eminence; it seemed to me that I could see
the top of a square tower in the distance. Greatly surprised,
and thinking that it must be an illusion, I went to the edge
of the ravine, and stood dumb and motionless with amazement
on seeing at the bottom of the valley which I was overlooking,
a ^'^.y built in stone, bathed in the light of the setting sun.

i summoned my companions by rapidly discharging both
barrels of my gun. They immediately ran up, thinking that I
had encountered some formidable wild beast. Scarcely had they
cast a glance below them, when they simultaneously uttered
an exclamation of surprise.

Before us opened an oblong arid valley, enclosed by a wall
of granite, and through which flowed a brook shaded by stunted

2G4 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

shrubs. The brook wound through the ruins, composed of
square buildings, most of them windowless, their crumbling
terraces disclosing the interiors. About the centre of the
town rose a gigantic broken pyramid. The " Dead City," as
Eulalio named it, was surrounded by a stone wall, the capricious
outline of which we could distinctly make out. The same in-
flexible straight lines characterized all these singular buildings,
even the ornamentation of the square tower which had first
attracted my attention.

As far as we could judge, we were lost in one of the windings
of a branch of the Sierra d'Oajaca, the route supposed to have
been followed by the Toltecs when they emigrated from Mexico
to spread themselves over the peninsular of Yucatan and reach
the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, where numerous monuments bear
witness of their passage. Nothing is more obscure than the
history of the primitive people of America. It is known that
powerful civilized nations preceded the Aztecs on this ground ;
but in what order or from whence did the emigrants come?
From the north ; and nothing more is known about them.
Modern American historians have rather complicated than en-
lightened the matter by hypothesis.

However, of these nations the Toltecs seem to have been the
most civilized. In the Aztec tongue the word Tolteo has become
synonymous with architect, or skilful workman. The Toltecs,
essentially agriculturists, imported pepper, cotton, and maize
into their adopted country. They knew how to melt certain
metals, to cut precious stones, and it is from their astronomical
knowledge that the Mexicans have boi rowed a calendar where
the civil and solar year agree. It was beyond doubt that the
ruins we had just discovered were the work of this extraordinary
people, whose first known king, Chalchiutlanetzin, reigned in 667
of the Christian era.

I immediately began to look for a road which would take me
to the bottom of the valley. But night came rapidly on ; the
scanty verdure looked like dark shadows, and the stunted trees
growing here and there among the ruins, lifted their barely
covered branches like skeletons. Suddenly, by a magnificent

THE DEAD CITY. 265

sunset effect not uncommon in tropical regions, the whole valley
was bathed in a crimson light, and appeared as though on fire.
For a moment we could distinctly see the pyramid, the tower, and
an immense building in the form of a parallelogram which we had
designated the temple, then all suddenly vanished. I stood for
some time anxiously leaning over the abyss. I seemed to hear
distant sounds floating upwards to me, and I almost expected to
see a light appear, or to hear a cry, which would reveal the
presence of man in these places where ho had once lived. I
waited in vain, and with my head full of thoughts, fell asleep
whilst watching the night-birds hovering mysteriously round
our fire.

CHAPTER IV.

The mist — Aerial gardens — An armadillo — The temple — Sculptures and
hieroglyphics— The coral snake— The ibis— Behebuth monkeys — The
tapirs — A nest of rattlesnakes — Monteuozoma.

LoNO before daybreak I was up, impatient and feverish. I
accused the sun of being behindhand. I stirred the fire, for a
north wind made the air chilly. As on the preceding evening, I
listened attentively to every sound, sometimes imagining that I
heard a cock crow or a dog bark, a sound revealing the presence
of man. I anxiously wondered whether it had not been a dream
or caprice of my imagination. But Vignon, C61estin, Eulalio,
had also seen the heap of ruins which filled the narrow valley.
Besides, the form of the pyramid and that of the tower and the
extensive parallelogram were too clearly outlined in my mind
for me to believe that I was under the influence of an illusion.

Be8ides, this was not the first discovery of the kind which I
owed to chance. In the month of March, 1861, when crossing
with my friend Sumichrast the mountains of Jalapa, which one
might have thought had been explored in every comer, we came
unexpectedly upon the ruins of an Aztec village. It was now a
question of more importance than the village of Jalapa.

2G6 MY JiAMULES IN THE NEW WORLD.

could not think without emotion of tho troasurcH wliich per-
haps I was on the eve of discovering, archaujlogical treasures
which might throw new light on tho obflcuro history of the first
inhabitants of Mexico,

JThc ^zrj broke at Xanl ; but by a phenomenon which I might
have expected, but which nevertheless caused nie much dis-
appointment, the valley was enveloped in a thick mist. Whilst
Celestin and Eulalio hastily prepared the coffee, I leant
anxiously over the valley, watching for the moment when tho
veil which hid it from sight should be lifted or dissolve
away in dew. Ere long the sun's rays dyed the humid shroud
with the rainbow tints of mother-of-pearl. At the same time,
great black vultures, seeming to emerge from the fog, flew up,
greeting the light with a hoarse cry. We immediately set out in
search of an opening by which we could get down into the valley.

Venturing between two rocks, Celestin thought he had found
a practicable path ; but, to tell the truth, the slope was almost
perpendicular, and of a nature to make us hesitate. Had it not
been for the mist which partly hid the danger, we should never
have dared to take such a road. A series of tumbles made us
very cautious, as we risked breaking our necks. At last the
mist, " devoured by the sun," according to Eulalio's expression,
was instantly dissipated, and the " Dead City," with its tower,
its pyramid, and its grey houses, was agafn to be seen.

At that moment we were passing along a platform, the step
of an immense staircase raised by the hand of man. I had often
Been a colossal work of this kind, in the neighbourhood of
Orizava, in wiiioh it was easy to recognize the stratum of one
of those aerial gardens spoken of with great admiration by the
old Spanish authors. In two or three minutes we reached the
foot of the cliff, and it was with no slight emotion that 1 saw
before mo a building, the front of which having crumbled away,
left the interior exposed to view.

On a closer inspection the building seemed to us more
dilapidated than we had supposed the evening before; the
distance had only allowed us to make out rough outlines, which
had led us to expect less rustic works than those before our eyes.

THE DEAD CITY. 2()7

Wo pasHod through a wide gap in tho wall of tho rampart and
entered tho town, now gloomy, silont, and blackened by tho
Bun's rays. Behind fhis v/all rose a "eo^nd fo; tification of solid
Btono. Evidently tho enemy who ventured to scale tho first
rampart would fall into the space which separated him from the
second — a rather ingenious defence against enemies obliged to
fight hand to hand.

A wide street opened before us, down which I sauntered,
walking slowly over its irregular pavement. The houses were
all of the same height and tho same construction. The low,
massive walls were composed of roughly hewn blocks of lava or
stones, soldered with a cement composed of sand and chalk.
The interior consisted of three rooms uniformly arranged. At
first wo separated, each going where his curiosity led him ; but
I very soon called back my companions. Wo were obliged to
use some precaution in making our discoveries, and then think
prosaically of breakfast.

Later on we had the idea that tho niins might serve as
shelter for wild beasts. Although we had heard no roar during
the night, the presence of vultures and hawks revealed the
existence of living creatures ; thus prudence was absolutely
necessary. CYOostin, who was standing within gunshot of
tho river, saw a small armadillo, and succeeded in killing it.
A dull, prolonged echo followed the report of his gun ; one
would havo said that tho valley formerly filled with sound was
longing for human noises to trouble its quietude once again

On tho heaps of ruins, the aspect of which must have been
changed a hundred times by earthquakes, grow stunted shrubs
and plants which one finds in places where man has lived — ivies,
mallows, thistles, and gilliflowers. Wo found tho soil every-
where very rocky, which accounted for the barrenness of the
valley. At tho entrance of the great building which we called
The Temple^ stood two colossal figures, in bas-relief, facing each
other. That on the right side represented a warrior holding
a kind of sceptre in his hand, his head surmounted with a
fantastic helmet; the figure on tho loft hand held a basket full
of fruit in its outstretched handw. Although wanting in

268 ■ MY HAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

proportion in some parts, these figures showed, nevertheless,
somewhat advanced art. In looking at works of this kind, it
must be remembered that the first inhabitants of Mexico were
ignorant of the use of iron; they hewed and sculptured the
granite with unknown implements.

Near the entrance of the temple, the front of which measured
more than two hundred yards, after having passed a heap of
dSbriSf which encumbered and concealed the principal entrance,
we found ourselves at the foot of a flight of steps, composed of
large white flagstones. To the right and the left were wide
passages with glazed walls, imitating stucco, and ornamented
here and there with paintings. A few square pillars,
capriciously arranged, and sculptured with bas-reliefs and
hieroglyphics, taxed our sagacity. The terrace, up to which the
flight of steps led, had crumbled away, and everywhere loosened
stones were ready to fall. A formidable earthqiiake could alone
have displaced the massive stonework before un, and this
disaster, occurring perhaps a thousand years ago, had driven the
inhabitants from the city, through which we were now passing
with none to dispute our rights, and which seemed to have been
mined since we looked on it the evening before.

I followed the course of the stream ; it led me out of the
town, which had a superficial area of barely two square miles.
Here I found a narrow gorge terminating in a pine forest. On
my return I climbed one of the stages of the pyramid, from
whence I could see a succession of wooded hills, closing in the
horizon on one side. An ibis, the sacred bird of the Egyptians,
alighted at the foot of the tower.

Heaven knows what were the thoughts each gave himself
up to during breakfast. Even the impassible Eulalio began to
talk, make conjectures, and get bewildered in supposition.
Ignoring the past history of his country, the mulatto believed
in witchcraft. "A dead city," who ever heard of such a
thing? C61e8tin overwhelmed me with questions which I was
unable to answer; besides, I was too much absorbed by the
strange spectacle before me to be very communicative. As to
Yignon, he talked of nothing but excavations, mines, and

THE DEAD CITY, 269

trenches, to clear away the rubbish from the whole town ; but
how were we to undertake such a work with such resources as
were at our disposition ? There were four of us, and we had but
one hammer and chisel between us. My companion chafed at
my objections, and according to him I lacked enthusiasm.

We again began our wanderings from right to left, admiring
in the distance a piece of sculpture, a tablet, or a frieze enriched
with arabesques of a singular character. Some of the immense
flagstones, with which the principal streets were paved, were
hollowed out with small gutters. I had the idea of cleaning
one of these stones, and then rubbing a piece of coal into the
grooves. I then saw the design of a warrior raising a naked
child above his head, and presenting it to an eagle with out-
stretched wings. In the comer a palm leaf, terminating in
a gigantic P, represented a date; 420, according to the chron-
ology of the Jesuit Clavigero.

I proposed to sound the bed of the stream, which flowed
througli a gravel soil. We went up as far as tlie place where the
water, foaming and roaring, dashed over the rock and fell into
a lozenge-shaped basin. I there picked up a few broken pieces
of pottery of no definite shape, and also a small golden bell.

Eulalio made a kind of pickaxe, which Vignon seized with
delight ; but, to his great disgust, the implement broke with the
first blow. It took us three hours to dig a hole a yard square ;
80 we soon gave up this drudgeiy, which only resulted in
fatiguing us beyond measure. The day passed in turning over
blocks of htone, wandering at hazard, and scraping oflF the moss
which covered the bas-reliefs. At sunset our arohseologioal
treasure trove amounted to two earthenware jars of different
designs.

The next day we thought of concentrating our strength, and
working at one point only. Vignon projiosed that we should clear
away the d&yria from the interior of a house situated near the
temple, the front of which, covered with hieroglyphics, seemed to
have been the dwelling of the high priest. Our work was fruit-
less; we only di>covered the three stones of an antique fireplace,
where a magnificent coral serpent lay coiled up. The reptile,

270 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

who was not prepared for our visit, raised itself in a threatening
attitude, then took advantage of our surprise to glide into a hole,
where we left it in peace.

The temple attracted us, but how were we to lift the great
blocks of granite before us ? We had the folly to attempt, and
the wisdom not to persist in, the impossible task. I set out in
search of a cemetery, which led us to make a fruitless tour of
the ramparts, for no'vhere could I see the least trace of a
tumulus. To! tecs or Mistecs, the inhabitants of the Dead City
probably interred their dead beyond the valley, in ground now
invaded by the 'pine forest.

For three days more we wandered among the ruins, killing
armadilloes, salamanders, and scorpions. Celestin sometimes
tried to decipher the insoluble enigmas engraved on the stones,
and his explanations did not fail to enliven us. From time to
time we discovered a small figure representing sometimes a
monkey, sometimes a bird, and sometimes a warrior. Our most
interesting discovery was that of a marble tablet, on which was §'
represented a young woman in a kneeling posture, pressing two ^
children to her bosom. As I was trying to think what goddess
in the Mexican theology this might be, Enlalio had pity on my
ignorance, and told me that he recognized the Virgin Mary with
the infant Jesus, and St. John the Baptist.

The tower possessed an interior staircase, a dozen steps of
which we succeeded in clearing. The passage was dark and
narrow, and one of us was constantly obliged to light the
worker. Above the twelfth step a solid block put a sudden stop
to our work. Vignon wanted to try and blow it up by sacrificing
some of our cartridges. I had a great deal of trouble in proving
the uselessness of such an attempt, the only result of which
would have been to deprive us of our gunpowder.

At sunset we liked to climb to the top of the pyramid, a
gigantic structure which we never tired of admiring. Vig-
nou could not admit that it had been built by the former
inhabitants of the town ; it must have taken many centuries to
heap up such a considerable mass of materials. According to
my companion's rather ingenious hypothesis, we were in a place

THE DEAD CITY. 271

which had formerly been consecrated, and where the images of
the divinities of the Toltec mythology were preserved. In what
other way could the foundation of a town in an almost inacces-
sible valley, fortified with scrupulous care, be explained? The
ruins of the temple, the debris of which occupied a third of the
town, undoubtedly covered golden statues enriched with pearls
and diamonds, for the Toltecs were acquainted with precious
stones. Vignon spoke with so much conviction, that Celestin
was constantly prowling round the ruins, and sometimes
seconded the narrator in the vain attempt to displace a block
of stone which twenty men could not have moved.

But the powder was running short, and our health began to
resent the purely animal food to which we had been condemned,
BO that we were obliged to think of returning to the boat. Vig-
non was in despair, and rebelled against this necessity. He
proposed that Celestin and Eulalio should be sent for provisions,
spades, pickaxes, and powder, whilst we continued to study the
ground. My companion wanted, at any price, to make excava-
tions among the ruins of the temple ; he was determined not to
confess that months, and an army of workmen, would scaroely
have sufficed to carry out such an enterprise.

My reasonings at last ended in convincing him. Our visit
to the ruins had already been too prolonged. We had been
obliged to use a considerable amount of ammunition, and the
return to the boat became urgent, even imperative for famine
was overtaking us.

Immediately on his return to Cosamaloapam, Vignon pro-
posed to em^ xk for Vera-Cruz, in order to inform the governor
of our discovery, and of the great interest there would be in
undertaking excavations, which would fully compensnte for any
expenditure. Alas ! it was but a day-dream. Mexico, especially
those parts of it near the famous Isthmus of Tehuantepec, is
strewn with imposing ruins ; but its rulers, always engaged in
defending their rights, can have neither the leisure nor the
means of exploring them.

I wished to spend our last day in the valley in visiting the
pine forest situated at the other end of the gorge ; there also we
found fine ruins.

272 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

In one of the most picfcuresque glades, we picked up hundreds
of agate arrow-heads. The brook, describing a long curve, pro-
bably flows into the Obispo. I was tempted for a moment to
take it as a guide ; but I dared not venture further upon unknown
ground when our powder was running short, and prudence re-
quired us to cross the inhospitable desert again.

Towards five o'clock, enriched with three fine squirrels, we
made up our fire at the same place where we had first discovered
the " Dead City." I took a farewell glance of it, for the next
day, at the time of our departure, it was still enveloped in a
mist, above which the vultures and falcons seemed to like to
hover.

Finally, the principal characters of the architecture of the
strange town which' we were leaving, resembled those of all
the ruins of the same kind in Mexico : a simple, solid, severe
style. The temple, the pyramid, and the tower, were perfectly
situated; that is to say, they faced the four cardinal points.
The height of the steps leading to the terrace measured more
than two feet; one would have said that it was a staircase intended
for giants. If it were absolutely necessary to find a point of com-
parison, a resemblance with the art of a nation known through
the monuments they have left, I should choose the Assyrians,
notwithstanding the general opinion which assimilates the
nations of the New World to those of ancient Egypt. Palanqu6
is very certainly more nearly related to Nineveh than to Memphis.

We got back to our boat by a series of forced marches. A
Btorm, or a marauding animal, might have caused irreparable
damage to our baggage, which would have baen a serious mis-
fortune.

Happily, we found all in good order, and being anxious to leave
the pine woods as quickly as possible, we at once set out towards
the region of insects, alligators, and suffocating heat, but also to
the land of plenty. The next day we camped in a glade on the
border of a gay little brook, which fell into the Obispo from the
top of a raised slope. From the look of the water we thought
we recognized the stream which bathed the ruins of the '* Dead
City," whither Vignon's thoughts were incessantly turning. We

THE DEAD CJTY. 273

had determined to rest for at least a day in this pleasant
place, and I resolved to devote the time to enriching my
natural history collection. A band of monkeys with pre-
hensile tails came up as we were breakfasting, and en-
livened us with their performances, swinging themselves on
trapezes formed by the stout branches of the creepers. For
an hour I admired the most marvellous acrobatic tricks that
could possibly be imagined. Mad chases from branch to branch,
perilous leaps, somersaults, quarrels, fights, the spectacle was
as varied aw we could have wished ; there was nothing want-
ing but a tumble, as C61estin remarked. To be sure, one
cannot but admire the lightness, skilfulness, and spinal flexi-
bility of the monkeys in their large cages at the Zoological
Gardens ; but, there they only execute their simplest feats.
In order to appreciate them according to their merit, they
must be seen frolicking in the open forest, swinging, jumping
from one tree to another, and enjoying themselves as though
in defiance of the laws of equilibrium.

Two days later we camped at the entrance of Lake Vignon.

"Whilst wandering on its muddy banks, I discovered a row of
pink flamingoes' nests — heaps of earth which the bird makes
with its claws, arranging at the top a hollow where it can
place its eggs. The long legs of the phenicopter — the name
given by ornithologists to the pink flamingo— prevent it from
sitting on its nest. It stands patiently and seriously close to
the mound it has constructed, and covers its eggs with the
feathers of ita tail. Nothing can be more melancholy than to
see these birds, about three feet high, standing motionless,
pensive, and silent, until they take their flight, when they utter
a peculiarly wild, plaintive cry, which is deeply impressive.

After this we let the boat take its own course down the
stream. Bunks bordered with flowers passed before our eyes,
whilst myriads of ephemera danced fantastic sarabands in the
boat's wake. I took pleasure in studying the capricious evolu-
tions of the rapid insects, wondering what signal they obeyed
to mount up, descend, whirl round, and mingle together without
ever coming into contact with each other. From time to time,

274 MY E AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

a bird darted past like a flash of lightning. Good heavens, what
victims ! The executioner carried away his beak full ; but the
shock of his wings dashed a still greater number into the water.
The giddy host resumed their frantic sport as though nothing
had happened. What an imperious reason for enjoying life
have these transparent, fragile beings, whose whole existence is
contained between the rising and setting of the sun !

If ever you are desirous of travelling, reader, I can recom-
mend to you the picturesque banks of the Obispo, the source of
which still remains to be discovered. For ten years I have been
intending to return to see the " Dead City," and have never yet
been able to accomplish the journey. Vignon has not been
more fortunate than myself. It is true, that for five years he
has been wandering among the Oajaca Mountains in search of a
lake, at the bottom of which — he was told this secret by an
Indian — were buried, on the 8th of July, 1520, at four o'clock in
the afternoon, the immense treasures of the great Aztec Em-
peror Monteuczoma, whom the French will persist in calling
Montezume.

THE UNICORN.

Nor Kosalino— The antSurro — Lying in ambush — An anxious moment —

The unicorn — The tapir.

It was five o'clock in the afternoon, and I was then exploring
the uninhabited banks of the Rio San Nicolas, in the tropical
parts of Mexico. After a long day spent in looking for
insects, I ordered the Indians who had accompanied me to pitch
our camp. My tent was instantly raised, arid slices of dried
meat which were to serve for our dinner put to broil before a
clear fire. We were in the heart of the woods, at about two
hundred feet from the river, and Enrique, my nominal servant,
set out with our guide, Nor Boaalino, to fill our gourds with
fresh water.

I sat down near the fire, and admired the ancient trees
around me. The shades of night were beginning to fall over
the forest, and the wild turkeys, perched on the topmost
branches of the highest trees, were greeting the last rays of
the setting sun with their loud gobbling. All at once a sharp
whistle sounded, and I heard a noise of broken branches and
hurried footsteps in the underwood to my left. I sprang to my
feet, and had hardly time to seize my gun, when Bosalino, pele,
breathless, knife in hand, visibly scared, stood before me.

It must have been some extraordinary occurrence which
could have frightened Nor Rosalino, the brave tiger hunter.

" What is the matter?" I asked, going up to him.

He signed me to be quiet, and stooped forward to listen.

"Where is Enrique?" I again asked.

Another noise of broken branches in the underwood. Bosalino

276 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

quickly sprang on one side, and at the same time my servant
made his appearance. Like his companion, he was pale, and
seemed to be a prey to some great fright.

" Will you tell me now what is the matter ? " cried I again.

" The matter is that the evil spirit is on our heels, and that
we must get avay from here as quickly as possible," said the
hunter at last.

" The evil spirit ! "

" The unicorn, if you like it better."

*' Have you seen an unicorn ? "

*' As clearly as we see you now, and we shall have him upon
us before five minutes' time."

*' Take your guns," said I to the two Indians, " and now
that we have six balls to discharge upon any intruder who may
dare to attack us, tell me all that has happened."

" We have seen the anteburro, senor," replied Eosalino.
" Fortunately, we were to leeward, or we should not be alive
now. Let us be off."

" One moment, lads; what is an unicorn? "What do you mean
by the anteburro ? "

" No one less than Satan himself," replied Eosalino.

" Did you see a man, then? "

My question betrayed such ignorance, that they looked at
me with visible compassion; and instead of answering, they
began to take down my tent.

" Stay ! " said I; "if it is really the evil one we have to deal
with, I have a holy talisman which will cause hia evil deeds
to fall back upon himself."

This time the two Indians regarded me with distrust. My
zeal in collecting insects, reptiles, and plants with an object
unknown to them, made them think that I practised sorcery.
They gradually recovered their self-possession, and told me that
just as they were bending to fill the gourds, their attention had
been attracted towards the opposite bank by a movement among
the reeds. After waiting a moment, they had seen a grey-
coloured quadruped, the size of an ass, with a long horn in the
middle of his forehead, slowly climb the bank. My men did

THE UNICORN. 'i^ll

not agree as to the height of the animal, but both of them had
seen its croup, its mane, and above all, the long spike in the
centre of its forehead. They assured me that to meet with an
unicorn, or arUeburro, was a sign of misfortune, that the animal
was invulnerable, and that those who attempted to hunt it
exposed their souls to serious danger.

I again tried to reassure my companions ; but in vain. They
begged and entreated me to camp further ofif; but I refused.
Having asked for the gourds, I learnt that they had been left
on the river-bank, so for that evening we were obliged to content
ourselves with the muddy water of the pond near us. During
our conversation, night had come on, and I was obliged to give
up the idea of going to look for the gourds, in hope of seeing
the famous unicorn which, according to my guides, was by no
means a fabulous animal.

Enrique and Rosaline ate without any appetite. They were
continually looking in the direction of the river, and refused to
lie down. They shuddered when I told them that at break
of day we would go and look for this quadruped which had
frightened them so terribly. They declared peremptorily that,
notwithstanding their devotion to me, they were, above every-
thing, good Christians, and that they were not going, either
from recklessness or to please me, to run into the claws of the
spirit of darkness, who having lost one of his horns in his
battle with St. Michael, now only possessed one, which he
allowed to grow to a great length. I was told that an old
Indian chief, the possessor of a holy bullet, had one day
struggled with an unicorn and succeeded in killing it ; but not
daring to carry away his game, the hunter contented himself
with cutting off a piece of the horn. From that day every-
thing the priest undertook turned out well ; as conqueror of the
evil one, he found himself shielded from the thousand and one
troubles with which the enemy of mankind amuses himself by
thwarting the projects of the sons of Eve. Whilst excusing
themselves for not being able to assist me in hunting the
unicorn, my two Indians begged me, if chance or science
rendered me master of the animal, not to forget the valuably

278 MT B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

properties of the horn, and to be good enough to gratify them
with a small piece of this talisman. In exchange for this gift,
they engaged themselves to accompany me without complaining
into the virgin forests and neighbouring savannahs.

I had some difficulty in getting to sleep. Without putting
any faith in the existence of the unicorn, I believed that I was
on the way to making a great discovery in natural history.
The imagination flies quickly ; I already saw myself in posses-
sion of a quadruped unknown to the learned, the sight of
which would make all Europe marvel. Thus, long before day-
break I was up, cleaning my gun and preparing my cartridges.

Another conversation with Kosalino informed me that the
anteburro was generally met with on the banks of rivers. The
hunter affirmed with such apparent honesty and conviction that
the animal he had seen the evening before was the second of
its kind which ill-fortune had thrown across his path, that I
believed more than ever in the existence of a new quadruped.

When the sun appeared above the horizon, it found me hidden
among the reeds which border the banks of the San Nicolas.
I remained on the watch for more than three hours, examining
a small prairie in front of me. I was beginning to give up
hope, when suddenly the reeds were moved, and I heard the
sound of a heavy body plunging into the water. At first I
thought it was a crocodile coming up slyly to surprise me ; but
the water was covered with bubbles, and a great black body
crossed the water, just keeping its head under the surface.
Soon the rushes on the opposite bank parted, and I saw a croup
very much like that of an ass. My two shots were fired to-
gether ; the animal plunged, regained the bank from which he
had started, and my gun was scarcely reloaded before the forest
had resumed its peaceful calm.

I had hoped to see my companions run up at the report of
my double shot; but nothing stirred in the underwood. Get-
ling into our boat, I carefully explored both sides of the river.
After a quarter of an hour of vain searching, I was obliged
to acknowledge that I had been very olumsy, and I returned
to the encampment very much perplexed.

THE UNIVORN. 279

To what order of the animal kingdom could this quadriipc<l
belong, the croup of which I had distinctly seen ? Was it a wild
horne? I should then have seen its head, for horses do not swim
under water any more than deer or bulls. I thought of the
hippopotamus, although this animal does not certainly belong to
the American fauna. My curiosity was excited to the highest
degree; and if the discoveiy of an unknown insect always
delighted me, my feelings may be imagined when I thought I.
was on the eve of discovering an unknown quadruped.

I found my companions crouching near the tent, and told them
the negative result of my excursion. They looked at each other
with consternation when I said that directly after breakfast I
should go and lay in watch again, and that I would not leave
the banks of the Rio San Nicolas until I had secured the skin of
one of the fantastic animals, a description of which I was again
obliged to listen to. Dazzling as my offers were, I could not
persuade either of my Indians to assist me. They even entreated
me to let them remove the tent five hundred feet further oflf, into
a glade where they could see the enemy coming, if from being
pursued it became the pursuer. I allowed them to do as they
wished, and making a hasty breakfast, I set off with my gun to
the river-bank.

After having carefully examined the ground, I resolved to go
on to the other bank and to lie in ambush near the small prairie
where the animal was going to land when I frightened it. I
crossed the river, then, after having hidden my boat so that the
sight of it would not scare the game, I explored the prairie. I
noticed several marks of cloven feet on the bank ; but far from
concluding that they were the footprints of an evil spirit, I
thought I had to deal with a ruminant. I taxed my memory for
a long time to try and think what animal of this species could
be rare enough in these regions to be unknown to the Indians,
and which swam under water like the afore-mentioned amphibious
quadrupeds. I made a thousand and one suppositions, and could
not in the least explain the enigma.

I remained for a long time motionless, watching the river,
and if the animal I was waiting for took the same route as on the

280 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

preceding evening, it must come out just in front of me. I
Haw some dozens of alligators pass by, and a flock of pink
flamingoes silently perched on the bushes near me. Around
me, owing to fho proximity of the water, was a luxuriant
entanglement of creepers, a floral network which prevented any
access to the virgin forests, but beyond which almost all herb-
aceous vegetation ceases. A band of monkeys at one moment
filled the forest with their cries. I resinted the temptation of
chasing them, in order not to abandon my post.

The day was lowering; I was annoyed and fatigued with
my long watch. Nevertheless, the wild inhabitants of tropical
forests generally come to drink at a water-course at sunrise
and sunsbt ; wild boars, for instance, always come at that time
to water their young ones. Thus I made up my mind to
remain till night closed in, although somewhat uneasy as \o
the way in which I should get back to the tent if I stayed
too long. ,

There is scarcely any twilight in the tropics, where dense
darkness almost immediately fc^Uows the disappearance of the
gun. The flamingoes had taken flight again, the alligators no
longer skimmed their grim muzzles over the sleeping water ; all
day sounds died away, and the silence grow deeper, calmer,
and more solemn. Already the trees seemed to grow confused
and assume fantastic forms. Had it not been for the pangs (tf
hunger, I should have borne my ill-luck with patience, and
persisted in my watch. Unfortunately, not thinking of such a
long stay, I had neglected to provide myself with any food. I
was getting up to return to the tent, when a dull noise attracjted
my attention. I heard the reeds crushed as before, and the sound
of a heavy body plunging into the water.

^ A slight tremor ran through my whole frame ; I had a cold
chill down my back, and my hair showed a certain tendency to
stand on' end. I was frightened, and my heart beat violently.
I knew not what enemy I was about to deal with, and the
unknown is always a cause of terror for man. By a violent
effort of will I resisted the inclination to fly which seized me,
and sheltering myself behind the trunk of a tree, armed with my

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THE UNICORN. 281

gun, and Enrique's revolver within reach, I listened anxiously.
There was a long wilence, and then I heard the crackle of the dry
reeds being cruMlied on the bank where I was. I saw a black
form slowly ascend the bank, and then, as though undecided
which way to take, it turned towards me. I fired. A strange
hoarse cry, which I had never before heard, told me that the
animal had been hit. I stood ready to fire again. There was a
great noise in the thicket, and then I saw and heard nothing
more.

What had become of it ? That I could not tell ; I was only
certain that I had hit the body at which I fired. To set out in
search of my game seemed a dangerous proceeding. I exposed
myself to falling into the marshes and to coming face to face
with some wild beast which, although wounded, might be quite
equal to attack me. With endless precautions, holding my
breath, and walking on tiptoe, I had the good fortune to
find the boat without difficulty. It was an immense relief to
find myself on the other bank, and I went back to the tent,
calling to Enrique and Eosalino with repeated shouts.

I rejoined the Indians near an immense fire; they came
and shook my hands, and overwhelmed me with questions.
When I told them that I had fired at and hit the animal which
I could scarcely see through the darkness, and declared besides
that we should find its dead body on the morrow, my companions
smiled incredulously.

I made up for my long fast, and then, whilst I smoked, I was
again fp.voured with new accounts of the unicorn. In reality, I
believed I had fired at a bear. Soon following the example of
the Indians, I fell asleep.

I was awakened by the screeching of a hundred paroquets
perched in the branches of the palm-trees. With great re-
pugnance, but led by curiosity, the two Indians agreed to
accompany me to the other side of the river, and to help me
look for the game which I believed I had killed. A trace of
blood showed^ that my conjectures were not without foundation,
and soon I heard Bosaliuo's voice shouting out to me —

« The unicorn I "

282 MY RAMBLE8 IN THE NEW WORLD.

I ran up to the eportsman, and saw lying before me a
magnificent tapir, shot right through by one of my bullets.

" Well," said I to my companions, " I do not see either an
evil spirit, an unicorn, or an anUhurro, but a simple herbivorous
animal, which I scarcely expected to meet with in these parts."

" It is an unicorn," said Rosalino.

" It is an antSburro" said Enrique.

•' Where is its horn or its ears ? " I asked, smiling.

•• Do not joke, senor," continued the sportsman. " You have
killed the wife of the evil beast instead of killing the brute
itself; that is why it has no horn."

" The tapir," said I to BoKalino, " is the largest quadruped of
America ; it is harmless, gentle, and timid. Naturalists, after
confounding it with the hippopotamus, then considering it as a
diminutive elephant, have at last allowed that it is a simple
herbivorous animal. The abundance of herbaceous food which it
requires, draws it to water-courses, but it does not eat fish. A
good runner, and a good swimmer, it is a difficult animal to
catch. Finally, it does not live exclusively in South America,
as is still affirmed ; the body we have before our eyes peremp-
torily proves this fact."

When I proposed to cut a slice out of the thigh of the tapir
for our breakfast, the two Indians manifested such horror that I
thought it better not to risk their prejudices. Nevertheless,
they begged me to cut off the animal's paws and make them a
present of its hoofs. These talismans had not, like the horn
of the male tapir, the property of drawing on its popsessor a
succession of fortunate events, but they have the virtue to ward
oflf misfortune. I keep a tapir's hoof in my collection ; it has
never protected me from the sting of gnats, nor from the venom
of slander ; from which I conclude that Eosalino and Enrique
are deceived in their estimation, and that the Mexican tapir,
although smaller than that of India, is neverthelens, like it,
a pachydermatous animal, which has nothing whatever in
common with the evil spirit.

THE GROTTO OF THE TOLTECS.

-•«•

CHAPTER I.

Guatemala — The Tolteca — The grotto — Necessary precautions — A general

panic.

On the 2Gth of June, 186—, about five o'clock in the morning, I
left the little village of Santa Maria, situated on the boundary
line which separates the Mexican province of Chiapas from the
republic of Guatemala. My travelling companion was a priest
of the diocese of Oajaca, Don Silvester Alarcon, who had the
well-earned reputation of being the most learned man in the
country with regard to the ancient history of his native land,
and he took me to the grotto of the Toltecs, celebrated for
sixty miles round. The Indians all spoke of the riches it con-
tained, although no one had as yet dared to penetrate into its
depths.

The air was cold, and yet we were in midsummer, and near
the equator. Well wrapped up in warm clothes, we at first
advanced silently, letting our mules choose their own ground.
Bautista took the lead, and following him, we had soon to climb
a bare rocky mountain-side, the stones of which, of volcanic
origin, rolled away at each step our steeds made. We took no
lesis than an hour ascending this hill. When we had reached
the top. a band of purple along the horizon announced the near
approach of dawn. Almost at the same time the 8un rose above
a broken mountain ridge, looking like a great red ball. It
quickly left the bed of mist hovering over the Cordilleras,
and we were dazzled by the bright light suddenly shed over us.

284 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

I quickly took oflf the blanket which served as a cloak, and
my example was soon followed by ray companions. We were
in a violent perspiration on descending the moimtain, rather
diflFerent from the shivering state in which we had climbed it.
On our way I admired the valley which opened before us — a
verdant glade bordered by virgin forests. Beautiful birds, with
red, blue, or green plumage, fluttered around us, and I listened
with delight to their sweet, varied notes.

" What a magnificent country yours is ! " I cried, turning to
the priest. " I have travelled over it from north to south, from
east to west, and its nature is e ) varied that I am continually
finding something to admire."

" We are no longer in Mexico,'* replied the priest, " and your
eulogies are now addressed to the republic of Guatemala, on
which ground we have been treading ever since we passed the
woods lying to our right. Guatemala, as you must know*
formerly held the power of the emperors of Mexico in check. In
1821 it formed an alliance with the provinces of Honduras, San
Salvador, Nicaragua, and Costa-Rica, which enabled it to shako
oflf the Spanish yoke."

" Did not these five provinces then take the title of the
United States of Central America ? " I asked of my guide.

" Exactly so ; but since then a spirit of anarchy, which is the
plague of the old Spanish colonies, broke out among the five
provinces, each of them disputing for the supremacy, and at last
ended in constituting them independent states."

We entered a wood, where the path through the trees became
so narrow, that we were obliged to pass in single file until we
came to a glade, where I again took my place beside the cure.

••Although we have barely space to let our horses walk
abreast, we are nevertheless on the high-road followed by the
mysterious nation of the Toltecs in their emigration across
Northern America," said my companion to me.

••Why do you call the Toltecs a mysterious nation?" I
asked.

" Because everything is ambiguous in their history. They
preceded the Aztecs on Mexican soil ; but whence did they oome ?

THE OnOTTO OF THE T0LTEC8. 285

From the north, every one allows that; but from what point?
Their first settlements are to be found far below California.
Their course can be traced from the Colorado River to Mexico,
from Mexico to Yucatan, from Yucatan and Guatemala, and
lastly, from Guatemala to Peru, across the Isthmus of Panama.
The ToltecH were not ravageis like the barbarians who overran
the Roman empire. Their name signifies skilful workmen ; and
they well merit this title, for wherever they settled they have
loft monuments, the ruins of which are as wonderful for their
imposing bulk as for the intellectual culture they reveal."

We were again obliged to ride in single file, climbing hills,
and at last reaching the bottom of a deep ravine where
flowed a brook, the water of which, impregnated with iron, had
an unbearable inky flavour. We alighted to camp and get our
breakfast, after which, having fettered our horses so that they
could graze, we each of us provided ourselves with torches. We
followed the right bank of the stream for more than a quarter
of an hour, being often obliged to cut a passage through the
creepers.

The cur6 had taken the lead, but he often hesitated as
to which path to follow. Ten years previously one of his
parishioners had taken him to see the grotto of the Toltecs.
Hardly had they entered a dark passage, when the two explorers
heard strange noises, and prudently beat a retreat. Since then,
notwithstanding his great desire to vieit the grotto, the good
priest had never been able to make up his mind to undertake
another excursion, and I had much difficulty in persuading him
to accompany me.

My guide's only beacon was, he said, a gigantic mahogany-
tree, the thick foliage of which entirely shaded the entrance to
the grotto. Unfortunately, there was no lack of ancient maho-
gany-trees around us, and we made a series of marches and
counter-marches, going uphill and downhill, and making recon-
noitres which lasted no less than two long hours.

'• It is there," cried the cur6 at last.

And in fact, a quarter of an hour later we set down our
burdens before an opening situated half-way down the ravine.

286 MY B AMBLES IN TEE NEW WOBLD.

and shaded by the dark foliage of a mahogany-tree laden with
fruit.

I examined the spot. Here and there were rocks bearing
beautiful fossil impressions. The mouth of the grotto, two yards
wide and three high, seemed to have been roughly hewn by
human hands. Nowhere was there the faintest indication of
a path ; nothing showed that this place had been formerly
frequented, and it was only attainable by a somewhat perilous
climb.

I walked down an incline and found myself in front of a
coiTidor, which turned off abruptly to the right. There was no
trace of vegetation on the soil, but along the sides of the passage
were enormous tufts of pale green wall-wort.

" How far did you penetrate ? " I asked the cure, on returning
to prepare the torches.

" I took twenty steps down the corridor which you have seen,
and then I turned back, as I have already told you. 1 seemed to
hear some one walking in the black darkness, as though coming
towards me. The Indian who was with me had been filling my
mind with such wonderful stories, that I expected every moment
to see a dragon or some other fabulous animal start up. In fact,
after having ridden a whole day with the express intention of
thoroughly examining the cave, I came away as I went, and I
have never since tried the experiment.

" Ah, well," said I gaily, " we shall know how much is to be
believed of the marvellous traditions before an hour is over. I
warn you beforehand that a great deal will have to be curtailed.
This is not the age of apparitions ; our century has replaced
everything by plain matter of fact, and the noise which you
heard was undoubtedly produced by an echo."

'' That is possible," said the cure, watching me as I arranged
the torches. " But are you going to penetrate into that den
without any preparation ? "
" What do you mean ? "

" That it would be well to say a few prayers first. No one
can ever repent of having asked God's help in a perilous under-
taking."

THE GROTTO OF TEE TOLTECS. 287

I approved of my friend's words. Followed by Bautista, the
cure went towards the entrance of the cave. Th^ Indian held a
bottle which until then I thought full of cognac or sugar-cane
brandy, but which in reality contained holy wa :er, with which
the entrance of the cave was sprinkled. After this ceremony,
my two companions declared themselves ready. I advised them
to follow me slowly, and never to take a stop without trying the
solidity of the ground, holes and precipices being much more to
be feared in the subterraneous place than demons. At last I
passed the vault, and we entered the narrow passage.

I listened, hoping to hear the echo, which I did not doubt
had been the cause of the good cure's fright on his first excur-
sion. Profound silence reigned ; the echo did not even exist, and
my companion's fright had been groundless. I again advanced.

" Listen," said Bautista, suddenly. A dull noise resounded.

I stood still, wondering what was the cause of the noise.
Again all was absolute silence.

'• Let us turn back," said the cure.

" Turn back ! " I cried ; " what for ? "

" We are tempting the evil spirit, and it is no business that
for good Christians."

" The devil tempts us so often," replied I, laughing, " that
really I do not see the harm of giving him tit for tat once in a
way. Besides, senor, I have already told you that I have never
entered a cave without hearing strange, inexplicable, sometimes
even terrifying noises. Upon examination, we have found that
these noises were caused by the wind, or by water slowly trick-
ling into natural basins, or even by the buzzing of an insect."

" Insects, in this darkness ? " said my companion with a look
of incredulity.

" Yes, insects; and what is more, insects whose visual organs
have become withered and useless by long habitation in dark-
ness. The Darwinists, who do not exactly pretend that men are
descended from monkeys, but who consider this transformation
as possible, see a decisive argument in favour of the slow trans-
formation of human beings in the absence of eyes in. coleoptera,
and fish found in caves."

288 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

" Those are but mere conjectures, senor. If nature is intel-
ligent, if it transform itself, it owes its impetus to the Creator,
and not to its unconscious power."

" Listen," said Bautista again.

This time, a dull vibration certainly agitated the heated air
around us,

" A stone must have fallen from the top of the vault," I
said ; " that is one of the dangers we have to fear."

My companions drew closer to me. For several minutes we
were perfectly silent, and could hear ourselves breathe. I again
went forward. The passage we were following made another
bend, and grew wider so rapidly, that we could no longer see
the wall on the left side; at the same time a hot breath
fanned our faces : we had just entered a room which we must
explore. Suddenly a bright speck of light appeared before us.
The cure seized my arm.

" It is the light of one of our torches reflected by a stalac-
tite .. . ."

I ceased speaking ; the light flickered, and we stood motion-
less.

" Vade retro ! vade retro ! " cried the cure.

The light disappeared, and a plaintive voice seemed to repeat,
" Vade retro I "

My two companions let thoir torches fall, and jostled against
each other in their attempt to fly. Frightened out of their senses,
they knocked against the walls and implored God to help them.
They went back, and gradually disappeared, notwithstanding
my repeated calls to them. I remained firm, to all appearance ;
but fear is almost always contagious. My heart beat violently,
and I felt my hair bristle. I tried to reason, when another noise
was heard. Then, losing the little self-possession I had retained,
I rushed in my turn towards the entrance of the cave, believing
myself pursued by I know not what phantom, which repeated,
in a sepulchral voice, " Vade retro ! vade retro ! "

THE GROTTO OF THE TOLTECS. 289

CHAPTER II.

Discouragement — Useless entreaties — New excursions — An unexpected
meeting — Discoveries — Departure.

Directly I was out of the grotto, I saw my two companions
rolling rather than running down the side of the ravine, in
their desperate haste to get away. I called to them, and the
first result of the sound of my voice was to make them fly quicker
than ever. They stopped at last and made frantic signs for me
to join them ; but the sight of the trees and the daylight had put
an end to my panic. I was already ashamed of having yielded
to a groundless fear.

We had evidently been duped by a reflection and an echo,
and, like the hare in the fable, we had just been trembling at our
own sl^.a.dows. I at last succeeded, with some difficulty, in bring-
ing back Ihe cure and Bautista to the entrance of the grotto.

" Well, we have had an adventure that I shall never forget,
even if I live to twice the age of Methuselah. Let us take our
belongings and get back to our horses. I do not feel at all
comfortable here."

" What, go away ? No, thank you. We must see into the
cause of this incredible panic of which we have just been the
heroes — or the victims, so that we may know at least what
frightened us."

" What do you mean ? " asked the cure, with a scared look.

" That we have come to see the grotto, and that it would be
very unreasonable to go away without having explored it."

" Are you in your right senses, senor?"

" Yes," I replied. " I have recovered my reason, which I
confess I lost a few minutes ago."

" Then let us be off" without delay, and be thankful that wo
are safe."

"I shall not be satisfied until I have seen Ihe grotto."

290 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

The cure and Bautista exchanged glances; they thought I
had gone mad. I talked to them for a long while, and tried to
bring them round; but it was trouble for nothing. They
refused to listen to me with such persistence, that at last I saw
the futility of my persuasions, and determined to make another
attempt alone.

After having looked to see that the primings of my revolver
were in good condition, I lit a torch and prepared myself for a
second exploration, quite determined this time that no noise
should frighten me, however strange it might seem. I would
not listen to the good cure's entreaties, and once more I entered
the dark passage.

Having reached the spot from which I had fled, I advanced
very cautiously. An acrid, resinous odour, like that pro-
duced by the burning of storax branches, almost suffocated
me. The idea at once occurred to me that visitors, having
entered the cave before us, were lighting themselves by aid
of these natural torches, and that our presence must have
caused them quite as much fright as we had experienced. Con-
vinced that I was right in my supposition, I gave a loud shout.
My voice died away without an echo ; but I thought I heard
quiet footsteps and a rustling against the side of the rock. I
raised my torch above my head, in order to see more clearly, and
I caught a glimpse of a shadow gliding before me.

"Who is there?" I cried.

No one answered.

" Speak," I continued, " if you value your life."

" Mercy ! " cried a faltering voice ; " mercy ! "

I hurried towards the spot whence the voice came, and I
found myself beside an Indian lying flat on the ground, his head
covered with his arms, and trembling violently all over. For a
moment I stood dumb with surprise.

•' Holloa, Jose ! " said I at last. " Get up ; don't be alarmed.
I am a Christian."

The poor wretch dared not stir.

"Mercy!" said he again. "Oh! good genius, I did not
want to offend thee; I came to beg thy assistance. Do not
harm me, I pray thee,"

THE OROTTO OF THE TOLTECS. 291

" I am neither genius nor devil, but a traveller exploring
the cave. Who are you ? "

•• Neotli, from the village of Santa Maria."

" And what are you looking for in this dark place ? "

The Indian was silent ; terror paralyzed him.

*' I am not going to do you any harm," Haid I to him. "Come ;
be sensible."

Neotli at last ventured to raise his head, but ho scarcely
dared to look at me.

" Come ! " said I to him.

Ho followed me mechanically. When I reached the entrance
of the grotto, the cure and Bautista drew back.

" Alive ! " cried the cur6.

" Alive," I replied, laughing.

" Did I dream it, or were you speaking to some one ? "

" You have not been dreaming at all, seiior."

" Then did you see the spirit of darkness, and have you
been speaking to him ? "

" No ; I simply spoke to Neotli, ono of your countrymen."

The Indian appeared. The cure and Bautista could scarcely
believe their eyes, and went up to their friend, who looked as
though he scarcely recognized them. I gave him something
to drink, and his tongue became loose at last. From the
cure's cross-examination it appeared that Neotli, tired of being
poor, had resolved to get possession of some of the riches which,
according to the elders of his tribe, lay buried and useless
in the grotto of the Toltecs. The Indian had had this plan in
his head for a long time, and by a singular coincidence ho had
chosen the evening before to put it into execution. Having
started from Santa Maria in the evening, he had been wandering
since mominfi; in the grotto. Our appearance had convinced the
poor man thai the spirits of darkness, disturbed from their rest,
had come to punish him. His fright had been so great at the
night of our light, that ho had fainted. On recovering con-
sciousness, he had wandered al>out in tlie darkness trying to
find the opening by which ho had entered. Finally ho thought
his last hour was come on seeing me, and hearing me call him.

292 MY ItAMIiLES IN THE NJ'JW WOIILD.

The poor wretch Htill looked terribly frightened, and the least
tioiHO made him tremble.

•' If I had listened to yon," Haid I to the cnre, " we Hhonld
bo far from hero now, and one more HnperHtition wonhl havo
barred the entrance to the grotto."

" True. NeverthelcHs, I tliink it is much better to leave thcHo
mysteriouH placcn in peace; and if yon will take my advice, wo
will go (quietly ]i(jme."

" IS'o, indeed," I cried. " Though I am to go back again by
myself, the grotto hIuiU reveal itH HccretH tliis time ! "

I questioned Neotli. lie told me that tlie chamber in wliicli
I had met him communicated with another nniclj larger, in tlio
middle of which was a sheet of water ; this large room, full of
wtalactites, more than a hundred feet long, and as wide in pro-
l)ortion, was so high that he could not see the vault. Neotli's
cxiierienco was valuable ; but when I asked him to follow me
into tlie cave, hu drew back and shook his head.

By dint of arguments, reasonings, and entreaties, strength-
ened by several glasses of grog, I persuaded my companions to
accompany me, and for the third time I entered the mysterious
cavern.

The first room was explored without difficulty. T rummaged
in every recess in the hope of finding fossils ; but there was no-
thing but hard, smooth ground. A heap of fallen rocks blocked
uj) the entrance to the second room, and it was no easy matter
climbing over the wet, slippery stones. Having passed this
awkward barrier, our torches illumed an immense gallery
bordered with stalactites, in the middle of which, as Neotli had
told us, was a long basin filled with limpid, icy water. We
maile up a large fire hero.

The spectacle was magnificent, and alone well worth the
troul)lo of our excursion. Neotli had spoken the truth ; the top
of the vault was lost to sight, and the light of our torches "'mid
not banish tlio darkness which covered it. On the other Laud,
our fire illumined the motionless surface of the lake.
i " One would think that it was a lake of molten gold," criod
Bautista, pointing to the luminous sheet of water.

"^C^^fc

lllif fffirT *ii'inii

[-1

THE GROTTO OF THE T0LTEC8. 293

" A lake of gold set with diamonds," said the cure, looking
at the stalactites, which were reflecting all the colours of the
rainbow.

My companions were right, and the magical effect, produced
by the play of the light on the water and the limestone concre-
tions which are often to be found in caves, must have con-
tributed in establishing legends of the unheard-of riches buried
in their depths.

I proceeded to examine the gallery, and soon found some
dehri8 of earthenware statuettes. The head of a warrior, his brow
crowned with feathers, perfectly represented the Toltec type,
which is to be found on all the Palenquo monuments, and
which singularly reminds one of the type of the Bourbon family.

Ten steps further on, I made another discovery. This time
it was the head of a serpent roughly hewn from a piece of lava.
I regretted that we could not dig through the crust of chalk
which covered the ground ; unfortunately, the necessary imple-
ments were wanting. Having reached the other end of the
gallery, a heap of rock barred our passage, and we were obliged
to turn back and examine the right side of the immense gallery.
There again I picked up broken pieces of statuettes, but so
damaged that I did not trouble to keep them. The heads of a
warrior and a serpent were the only riches I brought away
with me from the grotto of the Toltecs.

My companions were more disaj^pointed than I was. The
cure in his inmost soul had reckoned on discovering treasure
enough to rebuild his church ; this he confessed to us.

*' We shall still have to continue our service under a roof of
palm-leaves," said he to Bautista.

" The Child Jesus and his Divine Mother could change it
into a roof of diamonds if they liked," replied the Indian,
uncovering his head.

" Well spoken, Bautista," said the good cure. " Let us bo
content with what God does, and get out of this place."

Before going away, I looked for insects under the stones and
along the sides of the rocks, also for shells on the border of the
little lake ; but my trouble was in vain. To my great surprise,

294 MY ItAMDLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

three or four small fish came to the space lighted by my torch ;
it was a valuable discovery. Alas ! — and here all naturalists
will heave a sigh with me — scarcely had I stirred the water,
when these singular inhabitants of the darkness disappeared.
For an hour I watched for them to return, but in vain. My
torches were burning out, and I then determined, very much
against my inclination, to return to my companions, who had
been sitting for some time under the mahogany-tree.

Just as I was re-entering the first chamber I gave a last
glance at the immense gallery with its glittering pillars, now
again left to the silence of the night. An hour later, I bid a
long farewell to the grotto of the Toltecs. Accompanied by
Bautista and N6otli, I took the road to Old Guatemala, that
ancient capital which, destroyed in 1774 by an ear;;hquake, is
constantly threatened by two volcanoes, one of which throws up
flamei , the other water.

AZTEC EDUCATION.

-tC'*-

True Aziccs — A father to his 6 a — A mother to her dausrliter.

Sole years ago a showman exhibited in London, and then in
Paris, two deformed dwarfs, of a copper-coloured complexion
and woolly hair, whom ho called Aztecs. " A dauntless traveller,"
so said the newspapers, " crossing the deserts, as far as the town
of Acayucan, has brought back, through many perils, these two
specimens of a race which is every day dying out, and seems as
though it must soon disappear." I had now just arrived at
Acayucan, a village of five or six hundred souls, situated
to the south of Vera-Cruz. As these parts are inhabited,
not by Aztecs, but by admirably constituted Totanacs, I
was highly amused at the explanations of the manners and
customs of the Indians given by our intrepid traveller. The
two poor deformed creatures, whose keeper he had made
himself, would have been phenomena at Acayucan quite as
much as in London or Paris. Nevertheless, the public took
the thing seriously. Learned men — professedly learned men
if you please — wrote long dissertations, which tended to do
nothing less than ratify the daring traveller's imposture. Upon
the statement of learned men the crowd admired, and all
Europe, with the exception of a small number of disbelievers,
still represents the Aztecs under the deformed figure of the
two dwarfs, whom I have since found at New York in the
famous Bamum Museum.

Let us say a word now about the true Aztecs, that powerful.

296 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD.

civilized nation, whose last ompcrors were Montezuma and
Giiatimozin.

Towards the thirteenth century the Aztecs, or Mexicans — these
two names designate the same people — appeared on the extensive
table-land where the town of Mexico stands at the present day.
They came from the north. The etymology of the word Aztec
is not known ; as to that of Mexicatl, or Mexican, it comes from
Mexitli, warlike divinity. In less than a century the Mexicans
•conquered all the surrounding nations. Like the Romans, witli
whom they offer more than one analogy, they borrowed their
civilization and divinities from the conquered people. Without
laying aside their warlike character, they cultivated the arts and
sciences. The arrival of Fernando Cortez and his companions,
in 1519, surprised them at the height of their prosperity.
Notwithstanding the wisdom of the lawG which the Aztecs had
established, several of their conquests wore too recent for the
natives not to profit by the first favourable occasion to revolt.
Cortez did not fail to call these enemies, still quivering under
their defeat, to his standard, when they became his auxiliaries.
People like to talk of the meat Spanish adventurer taking pos-
session of Mexico with three hundred of his countrymen. It may
be remarked, however, that he had as allies the Totanacs and
the republicans of Tlascala, that is, more than two hundred
thousand fighting men;

The Aztecs — the Indians, as they are called at the present
day, for the name Mexican applies particularly to men of mixed
blood — are gifted with healthy, robust constitutions. They are
of middle height, tall rather than short, with olive complexions,
retreating foreheads, slightly flattened noses, large mouths, and
coarse black hair. Their lower jaw is prominent, and their beard
scanty. The general expression of their features betokens little
intelligence, but much gentleness ; their eyes are not expressive,
whilst their humble and awkward manners give them the
appearance of overgrown children.

The respect due to parents and old people seems innate in the
Aztec race. A young Indian is never heard to contradict any one
older than himself. The parents on their side evince blind

AZTEC EDUCATIOK. 297

tenderness for their children, and the families are so united that
more than one European nation might draw many a useful lesson
from a New World cabin.

Domestic education occupied a great place in A74tcc lifo.
The queens themselves nursed their children, who were
aocustomcd from their earliest infancy to bear hunger, heat, and
cold. In his fifth year the son of a noble entered a seminary,
to bo instructed by tho priests with plebeian scholars, who wore
only received as day pupils. Tho pupils were inspired with
horror of vice, respect duo to old age, and love of work.
Accustomed to sleep on tho bare ground, they only received
Buffifiiont food to maintain health. As they grew up they were
taught to handle weaponH. Tho soldier took his sons to war in
order that ho might accustom them to bravo danger. Tho
mother taught her daughters to spin and weave ; when they
were too fond of walking about, their feet were tied. Tho rule
was that young people should bo always occupied.

Whenever a child was convicted of telling a falsehood, its
tongue was pricked with thorns. Tho veneration inspired
towards parents was so deeply rooted, that a man, although
married, scarcely dared to speak before his father or mother.

Clavigero learnt from Sahagun tho exhortation of a Mexican
to his son, and that of a Mexican mother to a daughter. These
two admirable discourses will give an excellent idea of Aztec
morals about the year 1400.

THE I'ATIIEU TO HIS SON.

♦' My son," said tho father, " thou art now a man, and art
preparing to run thy race in the world, without it being per-
mitted us to know how long we may keep the precious jewel
which Heaven has given us in thee. Come what may, walk
uprightly, and pray God to aid thee. Ho hath created thee, thou
belongest unto Him. He is thy father, md loves thee yet more
than I do. Think of Him day and night. Never stand silent
before an unhappy or poor person ; on the contrary, do all you
can to comfort them with good words. Honour thy father and
thy mother, to whom thou owest obedience, fear, and service.

298 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD.

Do not imitate children who, like brutes, know not how to
profit by good advice : do what they may, such will at last fall
into the bottomless pit.

" Never ridicule old people, nor those whose bodies are
deformed. Do not jeer at those who have committed a fault, for
fear lest the same thing happen to thee. Abstain from going
where thou art not wanted, and never scrutinize the actions of
others. Let thy speech be always polite ; and when thou con-
versest with any one, use not many words, taking care not to
interrupt thy companion, nor to force him to listen to thee.

" Listen to those who are speaking to thee without moving
thy feet, twisting thy cloak, or sitting down impatiently.
When thou sittest at table, eat slowly, and do not let it bo seen
if the food is not to thy liking. If a stranger happens to come
in, share with him ; do not watch him eating, for fear of
intimidating him.

"Walk circumspectly, so that thou annoy no one. Kever
pass before an old man, unless he tells thee to do so. If thou
eatest in company with an elder, do not drink bef ire him, and
wait upon him in order that he may be pleased with thee.

" In receiving a present, show thy gratitude. If the gift is
valuable, do not be vain of it ; if it is of little value, do not
disdain it — it was offered thee to give thee pleasure. If thou
shouldst become rich, beware of being presumptuous — the gods,
the authors of thy prosperity, may be angered with thy haughti-
ness, and pour thy riches into more worthy hands. Live by the
work of thy hands, thou wilt only be the happier for it. Son,
I have nourished thee with the fruit of my labours, I have
given thee all that thou needest, without depriving others ; I
have fulfilled my duties, do thou the same.

"Never tell a falsehood. Weigh thy words in reiTeatinp*
what thou hast heard. Slander no one. Avoid sowing discord ;
and when thou art cntruuted with a eommisision, if the peruon
U) whom thou art sent iH wroth with thy sender, soften the
language of hitt anger, ho that thy indiMcretiou may not 6C{)arate
two fxieudit.

**0h, my mm I umy tbcMMs counschi Ktnmgtheu thy heart.

<t AZTEC EDUCATION. 299

Beware of forgetting or despising them, for thy existence and
thy happiness depend upon them." - ; i

These are not like the courygels of Lord Chesterfield, who is
anxious above all that his heir should make a distinguished
figure in the world. The exhortations of the mother seem no
less wise and touching.

• THE MOTHER TO HER DAUGHTER.

" Child of my heart, dove born of my anguish," said she,
■" I have fed thee ; I have tried to polish thee as an emerald, so
that thou mayest be a jewel of virtue in the eyes of men. Be
good, or who wciild wish thee for a wife? Life is lill of
trouble, and we should do well to make the most of the beaefits
showered upon us. Be diligent and laborious ; let order reign
in thy house. Bring thy husband water, and prepare the bread
for thy family with thy own hands. Walk slowly and be
modest in thy demeanour. Do not laugh at those whom thou
mayest meet ; look not to the right or to the left when thou art
walking if thou valuest thy reputation. Answer politely those
who greet thee or ask thee anything.

" Be active when tliou art spinnhig, weaving, sewing, or
embroidering, so that thou mayest merit esteem, and provide
thyself with necessary things. Never be idle; idleness harbours
vice. In working, think only of the gods or of thy parents.
Obey ft once. Never reply with arrogance or bad humour; and
if thou findest thyself unable to execute thy father's order,
excuse thyself humbly. Never oflfer to perform a task which
th'^j art not sure of fulfilling. Deceive no one, for the gods see
everything. Live in peace with the world ; love thy fellow-
creatures, in order that they may love thee.

*' Never yield to the evil dictates of thy heart, which will soil
thy sf)ul 08 mud soils water. Do not associate with bad women
— their example is pernicious ; never foiget that vice iti a
TenomouB herb, whicli will cautse death Hooner or later.

" When thou art married, reBjKJct thy huHband. Be not proud
nor disdainful toward him ; love him if he i« pcwr, however

300 MY BAUBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD.

rich thou mr.yest have been. If he grieve thee, speak to him
gently and without taking another confidant. Take care of thy
possessions and thy family, rendering to each their dues.

*' I am old, I have had expft-ienco of the world ; I am thy
mother, and I speak to thee in thy own interest. May the gods
aid thee if thou follow my counsels ! "

It must be confessed that a nation who taught young people
such maxims and made them practise them, were in more than
one respect superior to the rough soldiers commanded by Cortez.

Brave, even to heroism, the Aztecs struggled energetically to
defend their liberty against these invaders, whose fire-arms and
cavalry gave them the victory. With profound policy, the
Spanish general warily made use of the dissensions which
weakened his enemies, and conquered one by the aid of another.
What has become of that civilization which surprised even him ?
Where are the forty millions of men whom he found settled in
Mexico ?

Oppressed, trodden down by their conquerors, who refused to
recognize them as being gifted with reason, the Aztecs at the
present day, reduced to barely five millions, still refuse to
learn the language or adopt the customs of their oppressors.
Serious and silent, accustomed to obedience, they allow them-
selves to be ruled by six hundred thousand half-bred offsprings
of themselves and the Spaniards.

Such are the Aztecs ; a very different people from the two
poor idiots exhibited in Europe as specimens of their race — the
descendants of that Guatimozin who, placed by the Spanish
conquerors on a burning pile, calmly answered liis fellow-
sufferers' complaints, saying, " And am I on a bed of roses?"

THE END.

tOXeOK: rStXTED BT WII.LtAM rU>WK6 AMD tONB, STAMFUaD HTKHIIV

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42 Etchings engraved by Moritz Retzsch. With Lord Lytton'a
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Rose in Bloom. See Alcott.

Rose Library ( The). Popular Literature of all countries. Each
volume, \s. ; cloth, 2$. 6d. Many of the Volumes ar« Illustrated.
The following is a list : —

1. Sea-Oull Bock. By Jules Sandeau. Illustrated.

2. Little Women. By Louisa M. Alcott,

3. Little Women Wedded. Forming a Sequel to "Little Women."

4. The House on Wheels. By Madame de Stolz. Illustrated.

5. Little Men. By Louisa M. Alcott.

6. The Old-Fashioned Girl. By Louisa M. Alcott. Double

vol., 2s. ; cloth, 3j. 61/.

7. The Mistress of the Manse. By J, G, Holland.

8. Timothy Titcomb's Letters to Yonn^ People, Single and

Married.

9. TTndine, and the Two Captains. By Baron De La Mottb

FoUQUfi, A New Translation by F, E, Bunnett. Illustrated.
10. Draxy Miller's Dowry, and the Elder's Wife. By Saxe

Holm.
If. The Pour Gold Pieces. By Madame Gouraud. Numerous

Illustrations.

12. Work. A Story of Experience. First Portion. By Louisa M.

Alcott.

13. Begrinningr Agrain. Being a Continuation of "Work." By

Louisa M. Alcott.

14. Picciola; or, the Prison Flower. By X, B. Saintine.

Numerous Graphic Illustrations.

15. Bobert's Holidays. Illustrated.

16. The Two Children of St. Domingro. Numerous Illustrations.

1 7. Aunt Jo's Scrap Bag:

18. Stowe (Mrs. H, B.) The Pearl of Orr's Island.
19. The Minister's Wooing:*

20. Betty's Bright Idea.

21. ' The Ghost in the Mill.

22. Captain Kidd's Money.

2^ We and our Neighbours. Double vol,, 2s. Post 8vo,

cloth, 3/, 6d.

24. — — My Wife and I. Double vol., 2s. Post 8vo, cloth, 3/. (>d.

25. Bans Brinker ; or, the Silver Skates.

LiJ cf rublications. '9

Rose Library {The\ continued : —

26, Lowell's My Study Window.

27, Holmes (O, W.) The Guardian An^el.

28. Warner (C. D.) My Summer in a Garden.

29, Hitherto. By the Author of "The Gayworthys." 2 vols., t/. each.

30. ^Helen's Babies. By their Latest Victim,

31. *The Barton Experiment, By the Author of " Helen's Babies. "

• Notice.— The only editions of this author's 'vorks published in this country
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Russell {W. B., LL.D.) The Tour of the Prince of Wales in
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Portugal, By W. H. Russell, LL,D., who accompanied the
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special permission to use the Sketches made durinjj the Tour, Suner-
royal 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 52J. 6</,; Large Pajier Edition, 840

QCHWEINFURTH{Dr. G.) Vie Heart of Africa ; or,T/tree

*^ Years' Travels and Adventures in the Unexplored Regions of the

Centre of Africa. By Dr. Georg Sciiweinfurth, Translated by

Ellen E. Frewer. 2 vols., 8vo, with 130 Woodcuts from Drawings

made by the Author, and 2 Maps, 42J. 2nd Edition,

Artes Africaner. Illustrations and Descriptions of

Productions of the Natural Arts of Central African Tribes. With 26
iJthographed Plates, imperial 4to, boards, 285.
Sea-Gull Rock. By Jules Sandeau, of the French Academy.
Translated by Robert Black, M.A, With 79 very beautiful Wood-
cuts. Royal i6mo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 7j. 6d. Cheaper Edition,
cloth cilt, 2J. 6d. See also Rose Library,
" It deserves to please the new nation of boys to whom it is presented." — Tifttes,

Seonee : Sporting in the Satpura Range of Central India, and in

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with numerous Illustrations, 7.\s.
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the Baconian Theory considered. By George WiLKES. DemySvo,

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Silent Hour {The). See Gentle Life Series.

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About 60 Facsimiles of his Sketches during Travels in various parts of

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Sleepy Sketches ; or, How we Live, and How we Do Not Live.

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Smith (G.) Assyrian Explorations and Discoveries. By the late
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The Chaldean Account of Genesis. Containing the

Description of the Creation, the Fall of Man, the Deluge, the Tower
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Spain. Illustrated by Gustave DoRi. Text by the Baron

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List of Publications. 2 1

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Street Life in London. By J. Thomson, F.R.G.S., and Adolphe

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Thebes, and its Five Greater Temples. See Abney.

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-•«

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Thome {E.) The Queen of the Colonies ; or, Queensland as I
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Tour of the Prince of Wales in India. See Russell.

Trollope (A.) Harry Hei:thcote of Gangoil. A Story of Bush
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I SS1S:°"'°"°"'"- tTheMy.t,ri.„.I.land. jvol,

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}■

List of Publications. 2%

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Warner {C. D.) My Summer in a Garden. Boards, \s. 6d. ;
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24 Sampson Low, Marston, 6^ Co.^s List of Publications.

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