.J-^-XJL^K^ i^<_J^,^ ;/• J ^. ^•9/7 MY BAMBLES IN THE NEW WOELD. Frontispiece, MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. By LUCIEN BIART, AVTHOR or "the ADVEMTTREB of a YOL'SG KATI'RALIST. TRANSLATED BY MARY DE IIAUTEVILLE. LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MAESTON, SEARLE & RlVINGTON, CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET, 1877. (411 righti relented.') b r LONDON; PRINTED BT WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMrOBD 8T££BT AMD CHABIMO CS068. TO MY BROTHER EDWARD, WHO IS NOW RAMBLIKG IK THE TROPICAL REGIOK OF QUEENSLAND, I DEDICATE MT TRANSLATION OF MONSIEUR BIARt's RAMBLES ON THE AMERICAN CONTINENT. MARY DE HAUTE VILLE. a3 TKANSLATOR'S NOTE, ■«o*- The only liberty which I have ventured to take with this work of M. Biart's has been in giving it a new title. The title of the original work is A Travers L'Amerique, a literal translation of which would have approached too nearly the title of an English work already existing ; besides which, I venture to think it scarcely conveys to the reader so clear an idea of the character of the work as that which I have chosen. In all other respects I have adhered as closely to the original as has been consistent with rendering it into what I trust may be considered readable English. CONTENTS. LABRADOB. CHAPTER rAO« I. The 5tVen— Floating ice-blocks— Master Simeon— Greenland — Cortereal — A salvage — Ouanga 1 II. Thn little Esquimaux — The toilet of an uncivilized beauty — An ill-bred child — Civilizing effects of an accordion— Mr. and Mrs. Stewart — A house under the snow — Mrs. Oblouk-Kanick ... 11 III. The sledge drive — A rustic supper — The Oblouk-Kanick house- hold — A snow village— Origin of the Esquimaux — A new use for buttons — ^Eeturn to Canada 21 A CANADIAN FAMILY. I. The Canadian cross-bill — On a hunting excursion — A chance meeting — ^What a few acres of snow were worth — ^Montcalm and Wolfe— The St. Lawrence — Quebec— The forests— The storm — An American hat — A wrong direction — Another meeting 30 II. Miss Louise — Arrival at the Secret Valley— Grandfather Martin — A patriarchal evening — What is Mr. Peter ? — A misttike — An enfant terrible — Another search for the ioxt'a 41 III. A panorama — An unexpected meeting — Luncheon in the woods — Pleading in Miss Louise's favour — Return to the farm — Plead- ing in Peter's favour — " All's well that ends well " — The Loxia 51 NIAGARA IN WINTER. I. The coasts of Canada — Sir John Burton — Miss Mary'e cloak- Halifax — A sledge drive — A restaurant in a cellar— An oyster- fight — American liberty — Sir John again 61 II. The palisades of the Hudson — A stolen repast — Is it he ? — The Falls — The suspension bridge — Blondin's rope — Under the Niagara — Cincinnati— An introduction 69 SAN FRANCISCO. The Chinese theatre — A fellow-countryman — The El Dorado of Cortez — The village of San Francisco — A rich proprietor — A gaming-room — A Yankee, Yankee, and a half—" A bird in the hand is worth two in tlie bush " 80 CONTENTS. TOETOISE ISLAND. CBAFTXR FA6B I. Departure from Havre — Deerfoot — Sefior Baudoin — Count Monis- trol and Baron Martin — The trade winds — Equatorial calm — The Phaeton — An arrest 87 II. Scarcity of fresh water — The calm — Flying-fish — Dorado — Tropical grass — St. Domingo — Tortoise Island — Freebooters and pirates — An unexpected meeting 96 III. Betum to ship— The captain and Dofia Clara — A man-of-war — The pursuit — Prisoners! — Baudoin's departure — The sper- maceti whales — Campeachy — Lambert again — ^Andr^Marie ... 105 A WATEKSPOUT AT SEA. St Thomas — The Eeverend Mr. Smith — The waterspout at sea — A wish realized— Fears calmed 116 CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. L Havannah — Preliminary formulas — A good dinner — In search of a lodging — A restless night 121 II. Fraternity — Sons and daughters of kings — Abuse of saffron — A negro ball 129 FKOM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. I. Departure from Havannah — The slavery question — The Gulf Stream — The Mississippi — A kidnapping business 138 II. Departure for Messangere — The unfortimate Thomas — The danger of letting a dress get wet — A New Yorkist, and a native of Louisiana — A curious way of getting a husband ... ... 146 HI. Molifere and the education of women — New Orleans — Scarcity of filtered water — The Cincinnati and the Jaekton — Ball on board — A guest without knowing it — Conclusion 155 THE HORSE-TAMER. The mouse-coloured horse — Yankees and Texians — An aeoident — Alone I — Don Jose' — The wild horse — A terrible night ... 167 TENOCHTITLAN. Arrival of the Spaniards at Mexico — The palaces of Montezuma — The modem town — The National Palace — The theatres — Itinerant merchants — Society 179 CONTENTS. XI THE PEABL FOREST. tJHAPTKB PAOB I. Isidro— Don Anastasio \ega — Tba Pearl Forest — The Hermit's Cave— The ambush 186 n. The flight— A deliverer— A walk in Ihe forest — Old Jos€— An unexpected meeting — The bandits' retreat 194 ni. The nocturnal walk — Indian and half-breed — M^thal — The Hermit's Ravine 206 IV. The venture — An unfortunate meeting — Salvador Rendon — The right of the strongest — Pray for him 214 THE TUXPANGO CASCADE. The sick child — The Escamela river — The fox — The cascade — A tiger 225 THE SERPENT-CHARMER. The curado — Che'p^ Solana — The huaco plant — The trial — Feare calmed 234 THE DEAD CITY. I. Bishop's River— Indian cooking — Eulalio and C^estin — The king of vultures — A newly married couple — Wedding-feasts — The cotton plants — Wild turkeys — An escort of alligators . . . 240 II. A virgin forest — Alligators — A rough alarm — Wild bulls — A victim — Paroquets and cardinals — An Indian family — Flies — The lake 248 III. Lake Vignon — A serious misadventure — The bird of the sun — Discouragement — La terre temp&^e — The cascade — Excursion on foot— The black tiger— The Dead City 256 IV. The mist — Aerial gardens — An armadillo — The temple— Sculp- tures and hieroglyphics — The coral snake — The ibis — Belz^- buth monkeys — The tapirs — A nest of rattlesnakes — Monteuc- zoma 265 THE UNICORN. Nor Rosalino— The antSurro— Lying in ambush — An anxious moment — The unicorn — The tapir „.. 275 THE GROTTO OF THE TOLTECS. I. Guatemala — The Toltecs — The grotto— Necessary precautions — A general panic 283 II. Discouragement — Uselecs entreaties — New excursions — An un< expected meeting — Discoveries — Departure ... 289 AZTEC EDUCATION. True Aztecs — A father to his son — A mother to her daughter 295 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Portrait of the author " With the oars he formed a kind of bridge " •* Ouanga had just fallen on the frozen ground " Quebec " She took the hunter's arm" " * Uncle ! ' cried he, with emotion " New York " The water covered me with frozen foam " " I entered the room " ♦* Seize that wretch ....** " Rolling the barrels ....** " The column seemed to have two funnels" Keeping Christmas in Ha vannah .,, **Hold!" New Orleans Negroes clad in the traditional costume of Figaro " ' Let go ! ' cried Manuel " •' I thought I heard the cracking of branches " .. Mexico " Pretty Lola laughed at all obstacles " " The bandits surrounded an immense fire " " The tiger seemed to be contemplating the fall " "I am killed" " The married couple arm in arm " •• The bulls filed past us by hundreds " " Before us spread a valley . . . ." *♦ I fired " " This room— full of stalactites . . . ." .. Frontispiece To face page 12 »> 24 w 33 >» 40 .»» 58 » 67 j» 76 »♦ 85 »» 95 j» 102 »» 118 » 130 »» 149 >» 159 n 163 >» 176 t* 177 » 180 M 194 n 201 n 229 »♦ 238 »» 246 »♦ 251 n 263 » 281 n 292 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. LABEADOE. CHAPTER I. The Siren —Floating ice-blccks — Master Simeon — Greenland— Cortereal — A salvage — Ouanga. " Port the helm ! " cried the captain. The sailor at t!ie wheel rapidly executed this command; then, gently as a well-bred hoise, the Siren turned towards the left, dipped her hows in the waves and glided alongside a moun- tain of ice. with which she had barely escaped a collision. This was the third time since break of day, that is to say, since about two o'clock, that the little schooner, bearing the musical name of Siren, had grazed these enormous blocks of ice, which, especially towards the approach of summer, are borne by the currents from Baffin's Bay, as far south as Newfoundland, often even farther than that. Wo had left Quebec a month ago, and at this moment, 20th of May, 1851, were alongside the bare, desolate coast of Labrador. The lowering sky was the colour of lead ; the north wind whistled furiously through the rigging ; on our left rose gigantic cliffs, covered with a thick mantle of ice. " A fine temperature, sir,'* said the captain to me in a cheer- ful tone, as he came towards the poop, where I was standing. " A fine temperature ! " J B. 2 MY It AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. The thermometer, I had just 'nformetl myself, showed fifteen degrees below zero : therefore the captain's remark, " A fine temperature," seemed somewhat ironical. I had hardly been a quarter of an hour on deck, and notwithstanding the thick fur cloak in which I was enveloped, I was beginning to shiver and to have serious doubts as to the presence of my nose in the middle of my face. The eight sailors composing our crew, muffled up to their eyes in furs^ like myself, were walking to and fro, heaving the ropes, which were so stiffened by the frost as to be like bars of iron. From the time we left the St. Law- rence, I could not sufficiently admire these men who, day and night alike — and our days then consisted of barely four hours — paced the frozen deck of the Siren, ever ready to execute the difficult and perilous orders of the captain or the first mate. I was preparing to return to the cabin of the schooner, a narrow room where a cast-iron stove at white heat kept up an incessant roar, when my host and fellow-traveller. Master Simeon (he was so called by all on board), appeared on deck. " A fine temperature," cried he, in his turn, rubbing his fur gloves one against the other. Then, after having carefully examined the horizon, he came and stood by me. Master Simeon, a Canadian of French origin, was partly the cause of my presence on the coast of Labrador this 20th of May, 1851 : we had made the passage from Liverpool to Boston together, and during this trip I had more than once spoken to my companion of the vague desire I had to visit the polax regions. Master Simeon listened to me, smiling to himself whilst he smoked his everlasting briar-root pipe, and one fine day he suddenly offered to realize my dream. He had dealt in furs for ten years, and possessed a trading-station on the coast of Labrador. Directly we reached Boston he intended to pay his friends at Quebec a short visit, and then re-embark on board the Siren, bound for his northern trading-stations, where she would get her cargo of bear, fox, and hare skins, barrels of oil, fish, and walrus tusks which his employes, living in the snow in latitude 50°, were to"^ collect for him from the LABRADOR. Esquimaux during the winter. Master Simeon generously offered me a berth on board his schooner, promising to take me to witness the mode of taking seal, white bear, and walrus. I accepted his offer, and at the moment my companion joined me on deck, I was not regretting my imprudence for the first time. *' I see with pleasure that you are beginning to get accus- tomed to our breezes," said t!te merchant, whose good-humour was invariable. " Here you have been on deck more than twenty minutes ; allow me to compliment you on your powers of endurance." , " I shall never become accustomed," I replied, " to the feel- ing of being perpetually transformed into an icicle, and still less to seeing myself adorned with a blue nose every time I dare look in the glass." " But you, such a lover of the picturesque, do you not admire those immense white cliffs, that grey sky, those waves covered with floating icebergs ? " " I am dreaming regretfully. Master Simeon, of the sunny south down yonder between San Domingo and the Havanalis, where the sky is blue, the sea vermilion, and where, instead of a bare, white, uniform coast, the eye rests on hills crowned with palm trees." " I only promised you seals, white bears, and walrus," said my companion with his hearty laugn, " and, God willing, I will keep my word. Before forty-eight hours are over, unless the wind changes, we shall be at the station, and you will then be able to refresh yourself after your long captivity." " Where are we, then ? " I asked. " If my eyes were as good as that eider-duck's which you see flying over us, I should perceive, looking to the right, a country which I shall visit next year, for I have a trading- station there also. If you would like to accompany me . . ." " No, thank you," cried I this time. " If I return from this voyage I will certainly not try it again, and I shall be off at once to thaw under the tropics. But what country are you speaking about ? " 4 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. " Greenland." " The true Esquimaux country?" " Yes, and the country of the red fox and white hare. It is a curious land, rafter cold, but quite worth the trouble of a visit. And ixowever disinclined you may feel at present, still . . ." " I will answer you in six months' time from the Gulf of Mexico; meanwhile, Greenland interests me. Where is your trading-station?" " At Julianeshaab, a pretty little town, where some of your countrymen live." " Good Heavens ! what do they trade in there? " " There is hardly any other trade in these regions except that for furs, oil, and dried fish. I have often heard it stated," continued Master Simeon, "that Greenland is an island, and I am very much inclined to believe it. This land, as you doubt- less know, was first discovered by the Irishman, Eric Kanda, who settled here in 982. The colony founded by this predecessor of Columbus in the discovery of America, existed until the year 1436. Since then the Danes, the possessors of Greenland, have founded two settlements there : one through the influence of the missionary Egede; the other, in 1733, through the Moravian Brothers. 15ut you are shivering ; let us go back to the stove." " Not just yet," said I ; "if Greenland is to our right, we have before us Baffin's Bay." " Precisely so. We have been for several days on the route which explorers take in search of the North Pole, on the Ross and Franklin track. Baffin's Bay, from whence come the icebergs against which we have to defend ourselves, was discovered, in 1616, by the English pilot, William Baffin, then in search of a passage into the open sea. Baffin's Bay is about four hundred leagues in length and twenty-five in width ; it communicates with the Atlantic Ocean by Davis's Straits." " And the land along which we have been coasting for the last three days is Labrador?" " Yes and no ; we are in sight of the numerous islands which border the coasts of that curious country. But if no contrary LABRADOR. wind delays ns we shall see the true coast of Lahrador to morrow, and the end of our voyage northwards." My companion again insisted on taking me back to the stove, and this time I yielded. The grey clouds gradually cleared off the horizon, and here and there strips of blue appeared in the sky. Numerous birds were flying about, but they kept them- S€*lve8 at such a distance from the schooner, that I could not distinguish to what species they belonged. When once cosily settled near the stove, Master Simeon lit his pipe, stretched himself in an armchair, and I again questioned him on Labrador. He told me that this vast country, which is, in short, nothing but the continuation of Canada, was discovered, in loOl, by the Portuguese Cortereal. Struck, they say, with the fertility of the lands which he saw — which appears to me rather paradoxical — Cortereal gave his discovery the name of Lahrador, that is to say, land of labour. Now, although the southern part of Labrador affords the agriculturist some miser- able chances of harvest, there is not even that much in the north, which, almost perpetually buried under snow, has scarcely two mcniths of summer. Thus, certain geographers affirm that it is the industry of the natives which has given the land the name of Labrador, taking this word in the sense of work-shop. This is a question which, at the present day, has scarcely any interest, and, like Master Simeon, I leave the solution of it to others. In Labrador, as in Greenland, the society of the Moravian Brothers has founded settlements for the civiliza- tion of the native Indians and Esquimaux. The interior of Labrador, which the French traveller d'Anville had a glimpse of, is in reality unexplored. It is only known that a chain of mountains traverse it from north to south, and that vast sheets of water — inland seas, in fact — continue in some way the line of Canadian lakes. Towards the Pacific Ocean, Labrador has for frontier Hudson's Bay, then a stretch of country partly unknown as far as liussian America, recently acquired by the Americans, and known under the name of Alaska. About three o'clock in the afternoon, when the sun was 6 MY Jt AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. (liHappearing below the horizon, I put on my fur coat and climbed up on to the poop. Before us was the continual black line of watei mingling with the horizon, and to our left mountains of ice, I ventured as far as the bows of the Siren, where a man on watch, relieved from hour to hour, stood night and day, with attentive observation, to guard against the floating banks of ice so formidable on these coasts. Twenty times since our departure we had escaped striking against these moving rocks, a collision with which we avoided through the protection of Providence, for our captain's skilful tactics alone would not have sufficed to save us. The long nort.^ern nights are generally clear ; but the negligence of a sailor might cause the loss of a ship in a moment. To say the truth, and I repeat it intention- ally, I never knew men more devoted, more resolute, more inured to hardships, in a word, men gifted with a greater amount of courage, than the bold fishermen of the northern seas. There is no occupation under a temperate climate, however laborious it may be, which can be compared with that of the seaman whose means of livelihood consist in Graving snow, rain, and icebergs, and living almost always in darkness, ever between life and death. Instead of turning round on my approach, the sailor on watch, stationed near one of the cat-heads of the Siren, con- tinued to examine the horizon carefully. " Anything new, Montbars ? " I asked of him. " I hardly know, sir ; I have been trying for the last ten minutes to make out what it is I can see, or rather, what I could see only a minute ago." " And what did you see ? " " A human being stretching out imploring arms towards us, from the peak of that islet yonder." I drew near the sailor, and, following the directions he gave me, examined in my turn the spot indicated. Before long, I thought I saw a human form moving about. " Ring the bell, sir," cried Montbars to me, just as I was about to communicate my impression to him. " By Heaven ! there is some one shipwrecked there." Obeying the sailor, I vigorously rang the bell ; Master LABRADOR. Simeon, the captain, and all the sailors, with the exception of the man at the helm, ran at once towards the prow. "What have you discovered?" asked Master Simeon; "a rock, a walrus, or a seal ? " " Nothing of that kind, sir," replied Monthars, " unless the Labrador seals have arms, which is hardly probable. Look at the peak of that last islet to leeward : tliere is a human being there, or I am short-sighted." ■ The telescojies were rapidly pointed and directed towards the spot which I described with the sailor. " Good Heavens ! can it be some one shipwrecked there ? " cried Master Simeon. " It is more likely an Esquimaux, or some Indian, whose boat has been damaged," said the captain ; " but, we have just entered Hudson's Strait, and this coast is uninhabited." " A human creature must not call to us in vain," replied the shipowner. " Hallo there, lads," added he, turning towards the sailors ; " lower a boat quickly." "Stay, Master Simeon," said the captain, putting up his hand to stop the sailors already at work ; " we will get a little nearer the coast first ; we can do so without danger." " Be it so, but look sharp about it." Each sailor, forgetting the terrible cold, redoubled his efforts ; in a moment our course was changed, and the Siren, lashing the water, left a white wake on the black surface of the sea. The sun had disappeared, and twilight was gradually growing fainter. The high cliffs assumed a more formidable aspect in proportion as we drew near the coast ; but at the same time their lines became more confused, especially towards their base. " It will be dangerous to go nearer," said the captain, suddenly. He gave orders and the ship gradually hove to. " Confound this darkness ! " cried Master Simeon. " Who knows if in an hour's time we shall be able to find the island ? " " Let us lie to ; in this way we shall not risk losing twenty- four hours," said the captain. 8 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. " And the currents — where will they take us to?" resumed Master Simeon. By Heaven!" added he, after a moment's silence, "here we are hesitating whilst a human creature is perhaps in want of our immediate help. God protects those who do their duty, my friends. Lower the boat quickly, and let two of you be ready to go with me." " Remain on board, Master Simeon," said the boatswain ; " this is our business." " It is my business as well. I was a sailor before being ship- owner, and I have not forgotten my noble calling." I hastened to oflfer my services. " As to you, Mister Parisian," continued Master Simeon unceremoniously, " I do not doubt either your good-will or your courage, but on this occasion you may be in our way instead of being useful. Stay where you are, and do not let the fire go out; we shall want to unfreeze our moustacI.es soon. Have a lantern hung on the port-side, captain, and send up a few rockets now and then to light us on our way. Gently, fad% f' ^re we ready?" " Yes, sir," answered the three sailors who had taken their places in the boat. " Pull away, then." Tht oars struck the water and the little boat set oif. For a quarter of an hour we saw her dancing on the waves. Suddenly she disappeared; she had just entered the shadow thrown by the clififs. Almost an hour — one of the longest in my life, I believe — passed in cruel suspense. We were enveloped in darkness, and the surf of the waves against the sides of the Siren was the only sound to be heard. We were all crowding on the port-side, and trying to pierce the darkness, whilst the wind whistled plaintively through our stiflFened rigging. " They are calling," said a sailor. We listened anxiously, but there was no other sound save that of the wind and sea. " King the bell, lads, and run a lantern up to the masthead," said the captain. LABRADOR. 9 Soon the bell was ringing, whilst a red lantern was raised and lowered the height of the mainmast. " Ought we not to lower another boat, and go in search of Master Simeon ? " said I to the captain. "No," replied he shortly ; "there is no occasion to Ije uneasy yet." " What distance do you think we are, then, from the land ? " " More than three miles." I made a gesture of surj^^^ise; I thought we were much nearer the cliffs. Nevertheless, in spite of his apparent calmness, the captain walked to and fro with an impatience quite unusual in him. He had the rockets brought out; one of these pro- jectiles, which he suddenly sent ^^p himself, opened a luminous track in the darkness, but it only lighted up the waves. A second rocket, thrown more to the right, occasioned a cry of delight : we had seen the boat exactly in the line of light left by the rocket. The bell was again rung to guide the rowers. Soon we heard the sound of their voices and the boatswain's sharp whistle. The sailors, understanding this signal, ran to the stem of the vessel, holding several tow-lines, which, thrown with precision, fell into the boat just as it came alongside. " Keep the boat steady, lads ! " cried the voice of Master Simeon ; " and you up there throw a rope to the right carefully ; we are going to lash a woman to the end." Two minutes later Master Simeon appeared, supporting in his arms a shapeless bundle of furs. A lantern thrown on the new-comer showed us a pale face, with soft frightened eyes buried in a large hood. Whilst Master Simeon made his way to the cabin, the captain gave his orders, and the Siren resumed her course through the darkness. I followed Master Simeon, helping him to support the young woman whom he had brought with him, and very anxious to know the details of his perilous expedition. Scarcely had the shipowner entered the cabin when he seized the tea-pot placed near the stove, filled two cups with the Chinese beverage it contained, and offered one of them to his companion. The latter 10 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. murmured some words in i\ guttural tone, drank it greedily, and helped herself at once to a second cup. A ham and sea biscuits were brought, and the large slice I gave the new-comer dis- appeared with amazing rapidity. " The poor creature is dying of hunger," said Master Simeon, " and perhaps we ought to give her food by degrees." " Have you not questioned her ? " I asked. " I have done nothing else for the last hour, and she replies very obligingly ; only one must be her father or her mother to understand the language in which she expresses herself. The word Ouanga is on her lips every moment; I suppose it is her name." As though to justify the shipowner's supposition, the bright- eyed young woman pointed to the ham, placed her right hand on her chest, and among other words pronounced that of Ouanga several times. " I understand this time," cried Master Simeon. " Ouanga is hungry and would like some more ham; but Ouanga might choke herself, which would be no better than to die of hunger. Let us give her some tea, that will be acting wisely." "How did this poor creature come to be on that island where you went to look for her ? " I asked of my companion. " On an island ? " repeated Master Simeon. " One judgf^s ill when one judges from a distance. The poor little creature was completely stranded on an iceberg; otherwise she woulu have gained the land, for she is active enough. How did she come there ? . How long was she there ? This is what she has been fully explaining to me, and which she will explain to you in your turn if you will question her, and we shall soon know what to think about the matter if you know anything of the Esquimaux tongue." Master Simeon had the food taken away, and Ouanga — we gave her this name — sat down near the stove. She took off the hood which covered her head and shoulders, then a sort of fur jacket, and at last v/e saw a head adorned with black plaited hair. Small of stature, rathei stout, at least as far as the thick petticoat which reached down to her knees allowed us to judge, LABRADOR. 11 Ouanga possessed all the characteristic features of her race ; her forehead was low, her eyes large and soft ; she had the orange- coloured skin of half-breed Indians, a rather flat nose, a wide mouth, adorned with teeth of dazzling whiteness. Although our presence did not seem to cause her any embarrassment, her gestures were awkward. Suddenly she began to speak, accom- panying her sentences with brusque movements. I imagined that she was explaining her misadventure to us : stationed on the ice, she had felt herself carried away, and had ended by being stranded near the islet where Master Simeon had found her. I was not far from the truth, as I learnt three days later. Ouanga's narration was long ; but gradually her speech flagged and her eyes closed. I showed her the hammock destined for her; she immediately stretched herself on the mattress, and soon her loud and measured breathing told us that she was soundly asleep. . CHAPTER n. • The little Esquimaux — The toilet of an uncivilized beauty — An ill-bred child — Civilizing effects of an accordion— Mr. and Mrs. Stewart — A house under the snow — Mrs. Ablouk*Kanik. Ouanga slept on. Master Simeon was filling his pipe for the third time, when the captain and those of the crew who were not on duty on board came in and grouped themselves round the stove. All were silent, hoping that the shipowner was about to relate his adventure ; but Master Simeon, seated comfortably in his easy-chair with his arms crossed, looked at us roguishly without uttering a word. " Will you not tell us something about your little excursion ? " I said to him at last. " There is little to tell," at once replied the shipowner, " and you partly know it. On leaving the ship we struck out straight towards the peak which, like you, I had taken for a small island ; but either we steered our boat badly, or we were caiTied by the 12 MY H AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD. current, for we struck against an ice-bank far above the place we wished to reach. My brave fellows had hard work,, I can assure you, for the darkness was so intense beneath the cliffs we could hardly see each other. From time to time we shouted to attract the attention of the person we wanted to help, then we left off rowing and listened for an answer. We had neglected taking a lantern with ns, forgetting that night was coming on ; and I very much regretted this carelessness, as I began to think we should lose our way, for the ice-banks which from here seem to form a straight line are in realitv indented with numerous deep bays. We had just stood out to sea, and I was wondering whether it would not be more prudent to return to the Siren and wait for the moon to rise, when we heard a cry. In less than ten minutes we came u|)on an iceberg, on which, standing close against a ]»er])endicular wall, was poor Ouanga. It was no small affair to get the ])Oor creature into the boat ; the snow cracked under her feet, and at each movement she made, the block Ox ice which carried her shook and threatened to capsize. Our boatswain is a fine fellow, captain ; it was he who had the idea of forming a kind of bridge with our oars, and then had the courage to venture on it himself, to go after the jioor deserted girl." "Deserted? Do you think there has been some crime in this?" "No, no. The Esquimaux are gentle; and, although they do not value their women veiy much, "they would not willingly condemn her to death. It was an accident : nothing more." We lost ourselves in conjectures, and each one told yarns about Esquimaux carried away on ice})ergs ; no unforamon event, as it appeared. Our ca]>tain, whose fsither had sailed in all the polar seas, assured us that befoi-e the arrival of the Moravian Brothers at Labradi^r, the natives, or Little Esquimaux, as they are commonly called, used to strangle their old people who had become feeble and incapable of getting their living. ■These barbarous acts have ceased, but the Esquimaux is still scarcely civili/ed. The severe climate in which he lives, makes hunting and fishi?ig necessary, and obliges him to lead a nomad Il^vfl' '^'^Z^.,t;ijML'i^- ^ -^^ ' ^^^'^:^ oJ V. LABRADOR. 13 life. Long fasts encourage gluttony; and one can truly say of this people, that they live to eat instead of eating to live. Before supper, I went up to take a turn on deck. What was my surprise to find myself in a kind of half daylight. High up in the sky, at last cleared of the grey snow-laden clouds which had veiled her for a week, the moon shone brilliantly, and flooded the sea and clifis with her white, silvery light. Nothing can be grander than these mountains of ice thus illumined — sometimes cut in sharp ridges, sometimes rounded like cupolas ; but a vague feeling of sadness crept over me before this stereo- typed picture. The air seemed sharper and more biting than in the morning ; the thermometer had, in fact, gone down several degrees. Our evening meal, invariably composed of bacon, salt beef, or preserved mutton, with rice, beans, or lentils, was very quickly despatched. Master Simeon, a firm advocate for tem- perance, a virtue still more necessary in these rigorous climates than elsewhere, allowed the crew no other drink than tea. It required a holiday or some perilous work to get a distribution of grog, which was the more appreciated on account of its scarcity. The sailors, with their pipes alight, stretched them- selves on mattresses around the stove, whilst Master Simeon and the captain undertook a quiet hand at cards, which lasted until nine o'clock. At this appointed hour the lights were extin- guished, and I was lulled to sleep by the creaking of the ship and the splashing of the waves against her hull. The next morning, whilst I was making my toilet, I saw Ouanga's large eyes open and fix themselves on mo with artless curiosity. She came and took hold of my hand, as though she wore wishing me good morning; then turning towards the basin, full of soapy water which I had just used, she took ofi" a kind of tunic which served her as a dress, and displayed herself attired simply in her fur pantaloons. After a moment's hesitation and a series of comic grimaces, she washed her face and hands with an awkwardness which showed how little she was accustomed to such an operation. I hastened to give her a towel; she took it, examined it, and turned it round twenty 14 MY BAUBLES IN THE NEW WGBLD. times ; evidently this white, finely spun linen was a curiosity to her. I handed her a comb ; she unplaited her hair and began at once to comb it. When she began to plait it again I handed her a pot of pomade ; she smelt it, and turned away with a look of disgust, as though the smell of lemon were very ob- noxious to her. To make up for this she tried to dip her fingers in the oil of the lamp which lighted us; and succeeding in her attempt, she copiously greased her hair. Master Simeon entered the cabin, and Ouanga at once ran up to him and patted him gently on the shoulder. She put on all her clothes except the hood, and then pointed to the tea-pot and cups. As on the preceding evening, she ate with disagree- able greediness ; it was not only hunger but a national custom which caused her to swallow the pieces we helped her to without biting them. I had the idea of cutting up her meat as one does for children, and offering her a fork ; but whilst I was carefully cutting up the piece intended for her, the nimble young woman robbed my plate, and part of my meat had disappeared before I had time to cry out. In short, Ouanga was a great, badly-behaved child. She took Master Simeon's pipe without the least ceremony, and puffed away at it in a manner which clearly showed that it was not her first trial. The Esquimaux women do indeed smoke sometimes, but it is by no means a general custom among them. As soon as she was satisfied — that is to say, as soon as the dishes were taken away — Ouanga prowled inquisitively round the cabin, touching everything, feeling everywhere, and questioning us by gesture and look as to the things of which she did not know the use. My clotlies seemed to interest her more than anything else — their shape and cut, but especially the buttons with which they were trimmed and which she tried to pull off. I had the ill-advised idea of showing her the box in which I kept my reserve of buttons ; the box immediately disappeared, and was probably stowed away in some hidden pocket of the young woman's clothes. Neither my peremptory demands nor my vexed look could regain me my treasure; either Ouanga could not understand my demands, or else she pretended not to understand them, and I was done out of my box of buttons. LABRADOR. 15 When we went up on deck the young woman at once followed us, but she quickly ran down again when she felt the cold air, and muffled herself up in her hood ; then, coming back, she placed herself near me. The weather was fine, and the sun, which was every day getting higher in the heavens, made the influence of his pale rays felt, although somewhat feebly. Ouanga's looks were directed towards the land, which we were now at some distance from, and she uttered an exclama- tion. After attentively watching the man at the helm, she pointed to the cliffs and tried to make him turn the wheel. Seeing that the ship continued her route undisturbed, she ran up to Master Simeon, seized his arm, and with her right hand pointed first to the ship's boat and then to the land, whilst she talked rapidly. One could not doubt but that the poor creature was begging him to take her back to the shore which we seemed to be leaving behind us. Seeing that they paid no attention to her entreaties and the ship pitilessly continued her course, Ouanga began to groan and then to cry. Her tears flowed freely, and we were all moved at the sight of her despair. The sailors tried to make the young woman understand that she would be on land the next day, that they would then take her back to her tribe, and that she must not cry. All was in vain ; she jumped into the boat and tried to detach it. " Well, really," said Master Simeon, " I doubt whether we ought not to take her back to land. Her tribe is perhaps camped in front of us; and when she sees that we are leaving them behind the poor creature is capable of throwing herself into the water. How can we explain that it is for her good that we are keeping her ? " " Can we not go and look for them ? " I asked. " We should be obliged to climb those cliffs first, Mr. Parisian, and the thing seems to me impossible. Let us leave this poor woman to cry, although her sobs are heart-rending : humanity urges us now to stop up our ears." Like a child, who, after a long fit of passion and a tempest of tears, sobs, sighs, and then falls asleep, Ouanga, weakened, conquered, and watched, went back to the cabin, threw herself 16 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD. on her mattress, and soon slept soundly. She did not awake until dinner time, and then ate as usual, with a very good appetite. She refused the pipe filled with tobacco which Master Simeon offered her, and crouched down near the stove, where for a long while she watched the red-hot cinders falling from the grate. I persuaded the young woman to follow me on deck. She hesitated at first, and then made up her mind to go with me ; but directly she saw the land she began to cry again, and my consolations, delivered in French, English, and Spanish, proved as unsuccess- ful as ever. All at once the sound of an accordion was heard in the cabin, played by one of the sailors, who sometimes enlivened us with his Canadian airs. Ouanga was startled, and cast frightened looks around her ; then, as though attracted, she went down to the cabin, and stood spell-bound before the musician. When he left off playing, she went up to him, put her hand out towards the instrument, and then drew it back as though afraid to touch it. The sailor began another air, and the young woman sat down by him, examining with curiosity the movement of his fingers. Was she sensible of the harmony, or was it only the noise that attracted her? What is certain is, that when the musician retired, after putting his instrument into its box, Ouanga tried to detain him, and followed him on deck. The next day, as soon as it was light, I saw that wo were approaching land. We passed between two small islands ; then we went through a narrow channel, and came out unexpectedly into an extensive bay. In front of us lay a flat shore, and to our left a promontory, surmounted with a pole, from the top of which waved the English flag. I had hardly recovered from my sur- prise when the sailors shouted repeated hurrahs. The end of our difficult voyage was at last attained. Soon, and as though they sprang from the plain of snow which extended before us, a score of men appeared, making signals to us. An hour later the Siren^ perfectly sheltered, dropped anchor alongside a wharf constructed on piles. We were in a kind of narrow channel not unlike that in the hollow of which the town of St. Thomas, in the island of the same name, LABRADOR. 17 is- Imilt ; only, inbtcad of palm trees, orange trees, and pome- granates crowning the heights, blocks of ico with sharp peaks and fantastic forms rose around us. Ouanga, mad with joy, whirled herself round on deck like a squirrel in a cage. In her haste to leave the ship she would certainly have fallen into the water had I not watched her. At last Master Simeon's employes were able to come on board ; they had received no news from Europe for a year, so Heaven knows what huggings, and what an avalanche of questions, we were overwhelmed with. The hunting and fishing had been good, and the Siren would go back well laden with barrels of oil, bear skins, and walrus tusks. Master Simeon introduced his principal partner, Mr. Stewart, to me ; I say principal, for all the men em- ployed in the statioi. had a share in the profits realized. My character as tourist made these hard-working men smile, but I nevertheless received a very cordial welcome. Ouanga was not long in attracting attention, and what wo knew of her history was quickly told. We then learnt, that the evening before several Esquimaux belonging to a village about ninety miles oflF, had come to make inquiries about the young woman. The tribe were in great distress, and could not explain her disappearance. Her husband had left her occupied with watching the fishing-lines, and the block of ice on which she was had moved away. They had searched the coast, but in vain, and they thought Ouanga lost. No one knew the Esquimaux language sufficiently to explain these things to Ouanga, so we were obliged to wait for the return of the interpreter, who was now on an expedition. The young woman questioned each of the workmen ; but they could only answer with fragments of sentences, which did not seem to satisfy her at all. One of the new-comers tried to explain to her that the next day she would be taken back to her village. Did she understand him ? Mr. Stewart led us to his house, then imbedded in six feet of snow, like all the other buildings in the trading-station. This trading-station — I use the name given it by the proprietors — was composed of four extensive buildings, three of which served 18 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. as warehouses, and the fourth as a dwelling-place. One entrance, only communicating with a long corridor, gave access to this house, divided into small apartments. The rooms had no furni- ture but what was barely necessary ; but my surprise was great on being introduced to Mrs. Stewart, a graceful Irish lady, who had bravely followed her husband to this desolate place. Two other women, both Canadians, constituted, with Mrs. Stewart, the whole of the feminine population of the station. Mrs. Stewart, owing to her position, had a private suite of rooms — that is to say, a bed-room, sitting-room, and dining-room, lighted both day and night by lamps with unclarificd oil, the odour of which was anything but agreeable. A large stove, placed in the general sitting-room, heated the whole house ; they burnt a kind of peat, gathered in the neighbourhood, which also had a very bad sickening smell, and almost made me ill. However, I grew accustomed to these disagreeable odours sooner than I had dared hope ; only every time I came in from the open air I held my nose for a few seconds in order to accustom myself gradually to the heavy and to me almost pestilential atmosphere, in which my companions were living without appearing to notice it. They put up a bed for me in Master Simeon's room, and I had the use of half the large table on which ho made up his accounts, an occupation which began the night of our arrival. They proceeded without delay to unload the Siren, and it was no little pleasure to Mrs. Stewart to have half a dozen cases bearing her name to unpack. Master Simeon had thought about the household and toilet of his partner's wife, and had brought her many pretty and fashionable things. At dinner time, instead of the long fur dressing-gown she had worn all day, Mrs. Stewart appeared in an elegant costume which literally astounded Ouanga. I spent my first day in visiting all the warehouses of the station, admiring the barrels of oil, the sacks of feathers, and the piles of bear, reindeer, and hare skins, collected by Master Simeon's laborious workmen. What pleased the shipowner more than anything was the sight of a quantity of walrus tusks, L ABB AD OR. 19 an article in great requisition at New York. The property thus accumulated would bring the owner a profit of several thousand dollars. Ouanga had accompanied us everywhere, and twice she led me to the shed, where were about thirty fine dogs struggling and howling piteously ; five or six of them were Newfoundlanders, and were, I was told, the leaders in the sledge team. I admired the Labrador dog, a similar breed to the Newfound- land, with jet black hair, a fine shape, and intelligent head. The rest of the kennel was composed of Esquimaux dogs, so much like wolves that one has to look twice to distinguish them. I passed the evening talking with Mrs. Stewart and asking her questions. The young woman did not seem to feel her isolated life very dull ; she often accompanied her husband on his hunting and fishing excursions. Summer and the long days were coming on ; they would at last be able to leave the house in which the darkness obliged them to remain, and this prospect was consoling. As to the cold, one would never have thought where we were sitting that we were under several feet of snow, and that the thermometer outside was nearly twenty-five degrees below zero. I slept soundly that night and so long, that I had only just finished dressing when I heard some one calling me to breakfast. "When that meal was finished I went outside to breathe the fresh air, and Ouanga led me towards the promontory from which waved the English flag. The hardened snow did not uise. About two years ago, on returning to my house, I was told that a young man had been waiting to see mo for about an hour; he had not given his name. When I entered my study, the stranger, who was sitting near tlie fireplace, got up quickly, made a few ste|)K towards me, lo4jking at me with uppareut burprise. *' Do you not recognize me ? " he anked at lajit. **Ko," I replied. NevertlielcHH, your featureu remind m© .... **Jh* you ever think, from time to time, of ftkt SmmI Vttlhy?'* *Th« Secret V»lUry !** I eri«d. -^YmmmmMmHin-tadU, **}iu, air,** rej^kd tbe ytmnf; man, muI tiia fmm bMMMltiMiMli ** my pw»r IfrutUi-r i» «ltmt\. 1 tint Victor.** I tut fifteen paMieng(?ni on board, among whom an EngliNhman, and a young Amf^rirtan lady, betweim tmd eightf^m, Him Mary, the daughter nf « dtjcUrr •I CiaaiMWti. All lay otiier liiillow-irav«ll«rs were fm ihf mnat pari faftAfliafi*, whit kmm from gxficrt— stumo, although M'arm, wa«, it ap[>eareurHt« of hilarity. I litugh<*d myuelf m» ln-artily an any one, excipt when tlie KngliMhnmn wa* there. Tlii« jMtt»r Englinhiiian ha«l «iieh a dii***gn . al»l«' way mtm well-^m^teii »iiJI i lilt witk • mmjm §mei! tmi gmti iHnfW mm Urn §m^ iftMiJitMi, NIAGARA IN WINTER. 63 and the only ones which do not fade. My cap especially amused the young lady ; however, she made up for her teasing by choosing me almost always as her partner. Her father, the doctor, took little notice of her. The day after leaving Liverpool he had begun a whist-party, which was only interrupted by meals, and was to last till we reached Boston. Miss Mary was a true American woman, and did just as she liked. She would be on deck all day, '. aiking from one end of the ship to the other, whilst every one made way for her with a respectful politeness which removed all idea of gallantry. How is it that in France we are not well-bred enough for our customs to permit of this free confidence ? Why do we continually forget that we have brothers and sisters ? I am no admirer of Americans ; they are rough, ill-bred, and their brusqueness is proverbial ; but their respect for women, which is perhaps carried even further than in England, makes me envy this quality for my countrymen. A yonng girl in America may travel from one end to the other of her vast country without having to fear the insolent looks or the vulgar compliments wltieh are so common among French people. We pride oui selves on our politeness and civilization, and yet our country is about the only one where a woman cannot travel alone. B!it let us return to Halifax. As we approached Newfound- land, tlie temjMjstuous sea, with the enormous blocks of ice dabb- ing against the hull of the Scotia, had gradually Hulwiided into calm waves, over which a light mist seemed to float. In iiowi of UM was an indenteaNt covered with hhow. We entere«long«d t4) FrmMX, Tbia niafj^itiocnt \mTUtiiT, one of thm largf«t in th«i world, wlwnf ftv« or %%% Irriga hiAmi with fKial. and as HMoy liabing-»iita<-kii, wero ouw 1;^ log at atH'lHir. IumI iintg mm tba vrittltt iag. thtm ^m wafAamX aJBiidaiH Iff fnmm, waring from file 9^m\tmJk%u^ Uwi. (Iirt»trfa i il i pad 64 MT BAMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD, Francis Cartier, and which serves as a kind of outlet to those inland seas, called the Lakes Superior, Huron, Michigan, Iroquois, Erie, Ontario ; these last two are, as is well known, united by the celebrated Niagara. Beyond these coasts rise Quebec and Montreal Above the Gulf of Fundy, and the state of Maine, stretches an extensive country, wrested from France, in spite of the military talents of Montcalm, and the heroic courage of the handful of soldiers he had accustomed to victory. " Well, Mr. Parisian," said a clear young voice, interrupting my reflections, " are you not thinking of going on shore ? " " Most certainly, miss ; have you any commission for me ? " " I am going to propose that you take me with you. My father does not care to expose himself to this north wind, which at present is giving your nose a beautiful bluish hue ; but I want to pay a visit to the daughter of the judge of Halifax, who is a friend of mine." By way of reply, I oflfered my arm to the young girl, and passed triumphantly before Sir John Burton, who was obliged to bow to me. He was newly shaven and splendidly dressed, and his appearance, although somewhat stiff, was not wanting in elegance. I had put aside my mantle and high boots for this visit to the capital of Nova Scotia ; nevertheless, Sir John was better dressed than myself; I could not deny the fact, and I was doubly obliged to Miss Mary for having chosen rao as her escort. Halifax in fine weather is the seat of an important commerce, and nothing can then equal the activity whii-h fills its triHtkod «treet» with pe vcTitM ai) m'**'im, iit H]>it4! ijf ihtf ii) i;.>ii! ut llufir •t4ii|Mi, whii ii Utnk Ml tiuiMgli thi>y wem |M«r('hr'i '>u MtiiUi. VtMomititf i\w m\vu%^ uf li ^'^um^'mu, f wrtil :n mmr> h tiw my <«ae{iiiiiiiitt w^mM m v. r Unvt^ \»<»m NIAGABA IN WINTER. 65 At last, with a young lad to drive us, we are on our way to the judge's ho"se. The black horse drawing our equipage is a magnificent animal ; he gaily shakes the bells on his collar, and trots along with a firm step over the hardened snow. The sledge goe^ up and down, and from side to side. I cannot see the ground, but have an idea that the streets of Halifax are not very level. Almost all the houses have a gloomy aspect ; nevertheless, here and there a long column of black smoke issues from a roof towards the grey sky. My companion joins with the driver in urging on the steaming horse. From time to time we meet a bundle of furs, which stops to see us go by, but there is no possibility of saying to which sex it belongs. We cross an extensive white plain, dotted here and there with villas b.'iilt of wood, all hermetically closed ; their inhabitants are probably frozen, for nowhere is there a living being visible, nor a sound of life to be heard. At last the sledge stops before the door of a large house, with a flight of twelve steps, at present buried under snow. The judge has left for Quebec or Montreal, so we have had our drive for nothing. Miss Mary is highly amused, and orders our driver to take us back to Halifax by the longest road, if there is one. The young Canadian 8n)ile.s, he whii)8 his horse, and we are once more gliding over a spotless sheet of snow, whilst large flakes fall around uh and obncure our view. From the way that five or six bundU^H of furs look at us as we ]iaMH them, anil then raine thfir liands to the sky, \ am Oinviiut'd that our driver in taking ua ahing an tiiiMifi' road. We are going like the wiml. w** hardly know wlu-n*. for the hnow fallM thickly, .hint a* i an« wrapping myiMilf u[) ill thi- I'urN nm utlj um 1 can, w«- t**m'\\ HalifaK, xnd our horiM' nUt\m in front of m bjuw; around whitJi l\m MiwiW in {iil«^l likt' it riini|>ttrt. W\m Mary juiia|t« out. atnl J follow her h^wmm tiro «^ki 4| iMk Wi* n .« i> 4 «l«ii>r. atwi th«-ti IIihI otinM*iv*« in iwi^af » ■iliniili ttgili»4 hy gnu. which wo ihawiBif f^Miifi^ \hf*m^ *4mm dfea^ m^ HtMtrtb , ^i Wm Wmf 4mm wmH mmm to 66 31 Y a AMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD. notice it. She has given her name to the servant, for she knows the hotel-keeper's daughter, with whom she is invited to dine, whilst I am asked to go into the dining-room. Entering the underground room called by that name, I find most of the passengers of the Scotia, drinking, talking, and smoking, and all are anxious to welcome me. I am called from one table to another, and obliged to taste the national drinks which I have heard praised so much during the voyage, but which I think detestable. I am at an hotel ; dinner is to be at one o'clock. Meanwhile, I am told of the excellence of the Canadian oysters; I cannot say how many dozen of which are ordered in my honour. " No one can flatter himself he has really eaten oysters until he has tasted ours," said my fellow-traveller who had lent me the boots ; " you will see." I did indeed see I The palate and stomach want a great deal of training to taste and digest the infinite variety of dishes which man has invented; my education in this respect was almost perfect, thanks especially to my sojourn among Indian triljes. How many pages it would take to enumerate the frightful mixtures under the name of national dishes with which I have been regaled Ixjth among savagCB and civilized j>eop]e! Oh, what trials my palate hoH l)een subjected to! — and what stomucli can }>e iM-tter inured to thi8 sort of thing tliau mine? I thu8 disappoint my friendH, who prin\ Sir John, who ImkI Mpmng all of » Mkiddin f'rorn I know not wlnrrc. A w«iu*r Ittepi UN \utih «if;» p p!>it4'H fill) >»f c'lt-Ar, gliH'V watiT. lu whic^h IkmA Utile blftr'k )ih))h. <>» eithir nuU- of um ai^ pih« «>f miu\- widlM. wmim witii \>rmu l»rf^i mh\ mminjnjnniu t4i vi»it tiunn il yi I ettme (41 riiieiniutti. .Uut UN I HUH isuUrin^ tlu' milwuy «ttmwjt« . I mw Hir .b'hti. Mu w«t» not il). ^w^l far lmv.:fliiti||, bill h<« k« pi io« .vi* i*ri ttti*, am il*tmii,\i t< '"" - ..-.^immkimmAftif tu\ -i. <. ; . J |»ii«»w^l ktm wiiJMiiii iiui 4U* ' :^ frnMiffitiUtm. mii^ Urn imii i - 4 *4 tui^idiUtmfji^ w* fawdl tliml u^ U^r tw* li** «U%«. 8 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD. True, we had only exchanged contemptuous smiles ; if my boots and clo%k amused him, his vexation at Miss Mary's preference for me was sufficient retaliation. Twelve hours later we reached New York, where I found a spring-like temperature. However, far from imitating the Yankees, who were already beginning iced drinks, I walked along the shore of the bay, thankful at feeling the warm sun once again on my shoulders. The same evening, in the drawing-room of a charming Spanish lady, I announced my intention of visiting the Niagara Falls. My project was received with loud protests. ''It is im- possible," said they, " to get near the Falls in winter, or to see the islands and walk in the cave of the winds; I ought to wait for the summer to see Niagara in all its splendour." And they were Americans those travellers, par excellence, who tried to persuade me to give up my excursion. They told me that it would be mere waste of time, and that I should come back quicker than I thought to do. They even added that I should risk finding a lodging, the hotels being deserted as s(X)n as the snow begins to fall. I had travelled too much to allow myself to be intimidated ; besides, as I must shortly start for New Orleans, I had no choice of season left me. A week later I went to the New York railway station, and took the train for Albany. The waiting-room of this extensive line was nothing but a small, insignificant apartment, scantily furnished with wooden forms so well covered with grease, that I dared not sit down. The dirty state of the termini and the American cars seems to me to have been generally overlooked by European travellers, who, when in the United States, shut their eyes to all but liberty, I have ltd an existence too free from trammels not to understand the enthusiasm w' ' jh the love of liberty inspires ; but cleanliness is not to be vN - dsed. I also confess that when several of my travelling companions shouldered their guns to fire past me from the carriage at an unfortunate crow, which I innocently watched from the window, I should have preferred seats less dusty and brushed, if only once a year, to this proof of national independence. NIAGARA IN WINTER. 69 Hardly had we started, than one of my companions informed me that we were travelling on the best-laid railroad in the United States. It is true a communicative passenger — one is hardly allowed to be silent in America — had told me the sa'^e thing of the railroad between Boston and New York. I have crossed the I'nited States from one extremity to the other, and I know that this praise of the Boston and Albany railroads is well merited. My fellow-travellers were not long in informing themselves of the price of my hat, and travelling-bag, an article then unknown in America. They drew my attention to the little flags which the pioneers held up to show that the line was clear, or to stop trains in case of danger. I was much struck with this happy innovation, and my companions seemed to notice my wonderment with surprise. « * « « « « # The train stops. " Kingston ! " cried the guard. I smile as I remember that it was at Queenstown in Ireland that Sir John came on board the Scotia. I lean mechanically out of the window; a traveller runs along the platform, and jumps into the train. Upon my word, Sir John has a brother, or it is he himself I have just seen. CHAPTER II. The palisades of the Hudson — A stolen repast — Is it he?— The Falls — The suspension bridge — Blondin's rope — Under the Niagara — Cincinnati — An introduction. If there is much unworthy of admiration in the United States, still all is not to be found fault with. The railway cars are made so as to allow of passing from one end of the train to the other, even when it is in motion. As an exception to the rule, the train in which I had taken my place was arranged like our 70 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD. own, so that it was impossible to discover w^hether my surmise was but an illusion. After all, what did it matter? To my knowledge Sir John had never told any one the object of his visit to America, nor mentioned the place he was going to ; and the laws of England, France, and America left him at perfect liberty to go to Alban}'', even in the same train that I had been pleased to choose for my excursion The road to Albany, or rather to Troy, is certainly one of the most picturesque in the world. It runs along the right bank of the Hudson, which flows on widening and narrowing, and the celebrated palisades of which a stranger takes at first sight for immense fortifications. In the distance the steep cliffs resemble the black marble of the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. Brigs, steamers, and small boats descend this stream full speed, or ascend it with more difficulty ; there was an animation only equalled by that on the Thames below London Bridge. I caught a glimpse of West Point, the celebrated polytechnic school of the United States. But the country seemed bare, the houses were shut up, and one would have thought them uninhabited, except for the smoke wreathing from the chimneys. The build- ings, boats, carriages, and inhabitants reminded me of the neighbourhood of London, which I had recently visited — so much so indeed, that I asked myself if I were dreaming, and if I had indeed crossed the Atlantic. It was night, and the rain fell heavily. The engine gave a shrill, mournful whistle ; we had reached Albany after doing a hundred and forty-four miles in seven hours. I sprang out of the train, and from pure curiosity looked everywhere for Sir John. I must have been mistaken, for I saw no signs of my former travelling companien and rival. The next day, as soon as it was light, I set out again on my journey. In one day I passed through Utica, Rome, Syracuse, and Palmyra, to reach Rochester. The country became more and more desolate, and the snow fell thickly. Yesterday I thought myself in England, to-day I am in Germany ; the inscriptions aud sign-boards are all written in the language of that country. The train stopped to allow of our getting some dinner. Every NIAGARA IN WINTER. 71 one got up, jostled and elbowed each other in a very unceremo- nious manner, all trying to squeeze through a narrow door. In France the twentieth part of this pushing and knocking about would have brought about a general melee ; not feeling hungry or vigorous enough to take part in the assault, I allowed the crowd to pass me. At last I entered an immense room, aix^ost filled by a large table, around which most of the places were taken. I installed myself as well as I could, and a waiter placed boiled turkey before me, with the traditional Entdish paste-like sauce. I asked for the bill of fare : it was composed of ten entrees, but the best had already been demolished by the first comers, whilst I was washing my hands. I had hardly sat down when my fellow- travellers rose from the table, and were ready to start again ; and yet people say that the French are quick ! I have seen steam and electricity perform marvels in the way of speed, but they are surpassed by the rapidity with which an American will gulp down a meal ; it is legerdemain applied to gas- tronora5% A bell rings, and I run out at once. It is only the first signal. A snow-storm is whirling round five or six locomotives. One of them is shunting, and getting ready to start; is it the train that I should go by ? There is not a railway official or placard from which I can get any information. 1 question three or four gentlemen in vain. What am I to do? I catch sight of a grocer standing at his shop-door, and as I do not care to be taken back to Batavia, Tonawinda, or Canandaigna, I address myself to him, and, being a polite and obliging man, he directs me to my train. We make our way through a terrific storm, which quite obscures our view. Night conies on, and the travellers get out at the different stations, until I am left alone in my compartment. At Lockport most of the carriages are taken ofi", including the sleeping-car, from which a man descends. Tie seems in a bad humour, and the guard is obliged to tell him three times that he must get into my compartment if ho wishes to go to Niagara. The doOr opens, and Sir John makes his api)earance. 72 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. Our eyes meet. He arranges himself in a way so as to give me his back ; I imitate him, and thus we proceed on our way. Has chance thrown us together? It is most probable. In short, the English tourist is a man of my own age, well-educated, and able to speak French fluently. Everything should draw us together, and so much the more as we are fifteen hundred leagues from the Channel ; but it appeared that we were not meant to come to a friendly understanding. The locomotive stops. What has happened ? The darkness is intense. A continual noise, like the rustling of leaves in a f'oar of the cataract. I was up next morning before daybreak, which only resulted in ttying my patience to the utmost. To pass the time away I went all over the immense hotel, now deserted and silent, but in summer filled with six hundred travellers at a time. As soon NIAGARA IN WINTER. 73 as it was light I took Tip my station at a window, and looking in the direction from which the thundering noise I had heard all night seemed to proceed, I expected to see the first rayg of the sun ilhimine the Falls. However, nothing of the kind was visible. I could only see a few houses, and roads seamed with rnts ; the hotel was more than a mile from the Falls, I left my post after making this grand discovery, and went downstairs just in time to see Sir John start ofif alone in a fly ; he had been more thoughtful than myself, and had made inquiries and ordered a carriage the evening before. He looked at me, and his smile caused me a slight feeling of vexation. It was ten o'clock before I was, in my turn, in possession of a carriage and guide. The sun showed itself at rare intervals through the clouds : a bleak north wind swept the six inches of snow which covered the ground, and the horses could only get slowly along. The dull thundering sound, which no comparison can give an idea of, became more marked. I ensconced myself in the cushions of the carriage until my guide said, in a phlegm- atic tone — "The Falls." For a long while I remained lost in ecstasy, silent, over- powered. I did not think, I simply gazed with awe on the falling mass of water, and the yawning abysses, in this weird scene. It was a fine spring day when I first saw the ocean ; the peaceful waves were gently rippling over the shore : my expectation had been deceived. Here, on the contrary, as when I first entered a virgin forest, the spe-ctacle surpassed all that I had dreamt of: my imagination was outdone. An hour pieviou.sly I had admired the fine engravings on the v/alls of the hotel representing Niagara under aspects familiar to all; clumps of green trees, gravel roads, pretty villas, fine ladies and gentlemen walking about, grounds as well kept as an English park. Winter had eflfectually transformed this scene ; before me stretched a desolate, rugged, gloomy land- scape. The rocks which on the United States side are seen at intervals, their black masses standing out boldly through the clouds of spray, were now hidden under a sheet of ice, whilst 74 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD. the snow-covered peak of Goat Island was hidden by the foaming water, boiling and dashing against it. I here saw nothing but a liquid mass, more than a thousand yards wide, advance majes- tically, rnd then precipitate itself with overwhelming force into a gulf beiow. One would have said it was the sea breaking its bounds and deluging the land. It was some time before I followed my guide, who no longer felt any enthusiasm at the sight of this magnificent spectacle. His first proceeding was to take me to see the rope, still stretched across the water, on which Blondin had crossed, not the Falls — which would be impossible — but the Niagara, where its deep, swift water rolls in great, swollen waves. I afterwards went on to the suspension bridge, a marvel of architectural daring. It is more than seven hundred and fifty feet long, and overhangi: tlio river from a height of about two hundred and seventy feet. I followed the side-way for foot passengers, the centre being a railroad, and I then understood that the railway officials were right in consulting the wishes of travellers before taking them over this aerial road, wider, but perhaps less firm than that on which Blondin made his omelette. On reaching the Canadian side I saw the before-mentioned American fall to my left, and in front of me the horse-shoe of the principal fall. The banks along the side of the river rise perpendicularly to the height of at least three hundred feet; the continual spray showered from the foaming torrent covers the snow with a mantle of glazed frost, and wherever the water trickles slowly, it forms fine needles of ice, sometimes several yards in length. An unexpected ray of sunlight illumined the scene; a rainbow spanned the whirling eddies; the rocks sparkled beneath their icy coiting ; the falling water assumed a bluish tint ; the transparent needles, coloured by the variegated light, seemed to encase the falls in a gigantic setting of diamonds. A negro came up unexpectedly, and offered to take me under the curve described by the waters of the lake as they form the Falls. The whirlpools possess a fascination which I could not resist, and I accepted the offer, in spite of the remon- strances of my first guide. Enveloped from head to foot in a NIAGARA IN WINTER. 75 waterproof dress, the soles of my "boots provided with climbing- spuris, and a istafl" in my hand, I ventured on the bank as firm and polished as a mirror. The first few steps were easy enough ; then I had to walk close against the perpendicular side of a smooth rock, to which I tried in vain to cling to preserve my equilibrium ; but in order to do that, I should have wanted fingers provided with cupping glasses like flies' feet. The least false step would have precipi- tated us into the abyss ; my negro repeatedly reminded me of this, and I was not in a position which authorized a contradiction of his words. Before inviting a traveller to attempt this perilous walk, the guides ought at least to ask whether he is subject to giddiness. The negto told me, that beneath the bed of ice on which we were treading, there was a path cut in the rock, which visitors took in summer. We were soon under the ice-needles, and I was able to understand their formation. The edge of the bank overhangs, and allows the water to trickle drop by drop, which thus freezes in the form of stalagmites. The path became more practicable if not easier ; a false step would no longer have been a fatal condemnation to death. ^Ve ventured between the transparent columns ; suddenly a formidable noise, which not even the roar of the Falls could quite stifle, caused me instinctively to lower my head. It was occasioned by one of the ice-needles which my guide had disturbed with his staff, and which crumbled to pieces, awakening a thousand echoes. A few steps further on, we met a mulatto supporting a benumbed traveller. I uttered a cry of surprise on recognizing Sir John, enveloped in a water- proof dress like myself. " Do you come from the cave ? " cried the negro to the mulatto. "No." " Are you going there ? " " It is impossible to get there." I gave my guide a questioning look. He showed me two rows of white teeth, from ear to ear, and hastened to reply — " It is difficult ; but, nevertheless, it is to be done." 7(j MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. I contimicd my way ; whilst the Englishman regaled himself from his flask, and sat down, following me with his eyes. It was indeed a difficult enterprise. I no longer risked falling into the Niagara, but many times escaped plunging into the fathomless basin, hollowed by the Falls, the depth of which increases every day. Clinging to the ice by the aid of my iron- pointed staff, or my climbing-spurs, crawling sometimes at full length, sometimes sideways, rolling to the right and to the left, not without bruises, and unable to hear a single word of my guide's directions, I came upon a column of water barring my passage, J ut which I must nevertheless pass. I sprang for- ward ; and I confess I should have been knocked down, had it not been for my companion's firm grosp. I came off with nothing more than a formidable shower-bath, and found myself on a l/'ack soil in semi -obscurity, and in a comparatively warm atmosphere. The negro never let go of me now, and we advanced cautiously together along a narrow path where two people could not have stood abreast. Before me the water was rising and falling in mad fury, and covering me with icy spray. I leant with my back against a rock ; above my head arched an immense bluish-green vault : it was the Kiagara. After a while the deafening roar caused me unbearable torture. I wanted to sit down to contemplate, to reflect. Vain efforts ! One determined, imperious, maddening thought alone possessed me, which was to silence the cataract, and prevent the water from whirling arourc' me. A stone from the rocks fell at my feet, on the ve'»*y verge of the abyss ; I stooped down to pick it up, and then made a sign to my guide that I wished to return. I passed under the waterfall again, and directly the sky was visible I stretched myself on the ice and breathed freely, whilst my negro smiled placidly. Was the kind of nightmare, which had filled me with the mad longing to struggle against the Niagara, occasioned by the cold, by the want of air, or by a low state of the spirits ? I am rot subject to giddiness, and 1 think a deafening and continuous noise should be i anked among the infernal punishments. When I had again passed the needles, I caught a glimpse of f I '3»C=«t 4«|^m.,. :^:^l:*S "THE WATER COVERED WITH FROZEN FOAM." NIAGARA IN WINTER. 77 — ■ — — ■ — ■ — Sir John near the hank, and was childish enough to wave my handkerchief, in sign of triumph. I slowly made my way back, with only a momentary fear when crossing for the second lime the min'or of glazed frost, from which I could so easily have slipped into the river. Once again on the bank, I vowed never again to go under the >>iagara — at least, not in winter. I afterwards visited Goat Island. I also went up the famous tower, which American newspapers from time to time announce as having been swept away into the gulf which it overlooks ; a catastrophe which must happen sooner or later. From the top of this tower I gazed down into the abyss. I saw the water advance with giddy swiftness, as though preparing for the leap, precipitate itself, rise in columns, fall again, finally sweep on down the slopes, called rapids, and then flow calmly and clearly beneath the great suspension bridge. I did not fail to visit the banks of Lake Erie, whose yellow waters, lashed by the wind, are contiBually adding new waifs to the trunks of trees heaped up on the shore. I did not get back to my hotel until evening. There I learnt that Sir John had just started for Buffalo. I was vexed at this, and felt like a conqueror disposed to abuse his victory. Buffalo, which I visited next day, is a large, fine city, with regularly built streets, which undoubtedly, on account of their width, are somewhat monotonous and dull. At the beginning of the present century Buffalo was only a village, with scarcely a thousand inhabitants. Although situated at about three hundred and twenty miles from the sea, this city, through Lake Erie, and the canal which connects it with New York, is now a port of the first importance, and a centre of manufacture and trade. It is the great place of resort for all German emigrants, who have gradually turned this part of the United States into a new Rhine-land. From Buffalo I went to Pittsburg, where the rivers Alleg- hany and Monogahela unite and form the Ohio, one of the principal affluents of the Mississippi. The Ohio, with its yellow water, flows between two flat shores, and is subject to periodical 78 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. inundations. This grand river, twice as wide as the Seine at Paris, falls into the Mississippi at Jefferson, after a course of 1180 miles. Fifty years ago the country watered by the Ohio was almost a desert. Travellers scarcely ever ventured on these plains, formerly inhabited by an industrious people, traces of whom are found at every step. From the American archaeological point of view, Ohio is the richest of the United States. Un- fortunately, up to the present day the researches of *ne learned have thrown little light on the mysterious peopl-> who covered it with buildings, and whose name is not even known among the Indians. The steamer, on board which I had been making my voyage of exploration, landed me one fine morning at Cincinnati. I at once went in search of the house where Miss Mary and her father lived. The doctor received me with all the warmth of an old acquaintance. His daughter was not at home, but he invited me to dinner, and sent at once for my portmanteau, which I had left at an hotel, declaring that I should sleep under his roof as long as I stayed in his native town. " We often talk of you, Mary, John, and myself," said the old gentleman to me ; " to say the truth, I hardly expected to see you again." I was going to ask the doctor if he had a son, when a carriage stopped before the house, and, to my great surprise, in came Miss Mary, leaning on Sir John's arm. " My husband," said the young lady to me after having shaken hands. Then she gave my name to Sir John Burton ; so at last we were introduced to each other. At dessert I learnt that the young baronet, attracted by Miss Maiy's charms, had not hesitated to leave England and take a berth on board the Scotia at Queenstown. He followed the doctor as far as Cincinnati, and there formally demanded his daughter's hand. The doctor having required a week's delay before giving an answer. Sir John had taker thr- journey to Niagara to pass that time as quickly as possible. It was for NIAGARA IN WINTER. 79 the sake of propriety that Miss Mary had always accepted my arm on board; the good Englishman thus regarded me as a rival, and naturally had a grudge against me. " Who would ever have suspected this little romance?" said I to my new friend, warmly shaking his hand. " True," cried the doctor. " Who on board would ever have thought that you were aspiring to become my son-in-law ? " " No one but myself, perhaps," rejoined Lady Burton blushing, whilst her husband kissed her, and her father hummed the Americaii national air of " Yankee doodle." SAN FRANCISCO. The Chinese theatre — A fellow-countryman — The El Dorado of Cortez — The village of San Francisco— A rich proprietor — A gaming-room — A Yankee, Yankee, and a half — "A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush." It was five o'clock in the afternoon, when, beginning to feel uncomfortaLly inclined to yawn, I made up my mind to leave the Chinese theatre of San Francisco, where curiosity had led me. Were the actors indifferent ? I do not think so ; for the Chinese by whom I was surrounded were approving the tirades recited for their benefit, with very significant nods. As for the piece — an exaggerated drama, as well as I was able to judge from the length of the spears with which the actors threatened each other — in order to appreciate its dramatic and literary merits, I ought to have understood the Chinese language, a knowledge in which I was entirely wanting. At first the costumes, the stage-scenery, the music, and the spectators, had all interested me; but after watching for two hours some awkward clowns making grimaces, brandishing their swords, defying and occasionally asb«alting each other without my having the least idea of the reason ol fheir incessant quarrels, I began to detest the theatrical art — in the Chinese form of course understood. Whilst doing my best to try and understand for what crime the young Chinaman who filled the role of the princess was continually threatened with death, I mechanically climbed one of the numerous hills on which the capital of California is built. Leaving the Kjuses behind me, I soon espied a large isolated SAN FRANCISCO. 81 tree with moss-covered roots, forming a luxurious seat, on which I comfortably ensconced myself. From this spot, whither chance had led me, I had a magnificent view of the city and bay of San Francisco, which soon banished the incomprehensible Chinese drama from my mind. The sun was low in the horizon, and its rays, gilding the blue waves of the Pacific, reminded me of that vermilion sea which washes the coasts of Lower California, and which also bears the name of the Sea of Cortes. Here and there white sails filled by a gentle breeze wafted a fishing-smack over the golden waves, or indolently bore a vessel to the open sea. Below me lay the immense bay of San Francisco bristling with masts, from the top of which floated the ensigns of all maritime nations; whilst the noises from the city, with its quays, its up-and-down-hill streets, and its temporary buildings, sounded in the distance like an immense bee-hive at work. I was lost in contemplation, when a voice above me, politely asking for a light, interrupted my reverie. The new comer held a cigar in his hand, and spoke in French. He was a man of about fifty, with a fair complexion, a firm, energetic countenance, and piercing eyes. In reply to his request I gave him my fusee-case. He thanked me, and after taking a few puffs at his cigar, seated, himself quietly beside me. " A fine view, and a beautiful country," said he, stretching his arm towards the sea and gradually bringing it round to the hiUs. " Are you a Frenchman, sir ? " I asked, in lieu of reply. "Certainly. I am from Boulogne-sur-Mer ; and what is more, I am your next-room neighbour at the hotel de la Sanure. It was on the strength of being your countryman that I took the liberty of asking you for a light." " Do you live in San Francisco ? " •' Yes, for the present." I again looked towards the bay, across which a steamer was passing, and my companion seemed to be absorbed in contempla- tion of the city. " I almost think I am dreaming when I cany my thoughts 82 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. back ten years," said he i\ll at once. " At that time, sir, yoiA would see a vessel one*, a month in this bay, where now thousands are crowding together. As to the great city lying at our feet, it then consisted of about fifty houses." "Did you ever visit California before it belonged to the United States?" "Yes, in 1845. I had read the old Spanish authors, and I knew that Cortez, after the conquest of Mexico, had explored the coasts of the Pacific in search of the El Dorado. Charles the Fifth encouraged the conqueror in this enterprise, but the latter scarcely went further than Lower California. Urged by I know not what instinct, I set out in search of the land of gold, sought for in vain by Cortez, and one fine day I landed on this appa- rently barren coast. I lived here almost six months. Convinced that the soil was fertile, the country pleasant, and the climate healthy, I resolved to settle here ; and, in company with one of my friends, I bought all the land you can see before you." " All the land before my eyes ! " I repeated, turning towards my csompanion. " All," replied he, taking short pufis at his cigar ; " the land on which this city is built included." "Did the land on which San Francisco is built belong to you ? " I resumed, slowly scanning my words. " It belongs to me still, if you please, and in such an incon- testible way that the American Government are now oifering me ten million dollars in exchange for my title of proprietor." " And are you going to accept the ofier ? " " No ; I refuse, as I want twenty million." I thought I must be talking to an individual slightly de- ranged in his mind, like several I had seen at the time the gold fever was bringing so many emigrants to California ; but my companion spoke so quietly and seriously that I hardly knew what to think of him. " Yes," he resumed at last, " do what I will, I continually see behind this populous city the miserable village founded by the Franciscan missionaries in 1776, which, notwithstanding its good position, had so ill prospered, that when first I came here SAN FE AN CISCO. 83 it had a population of scarcely two thousand inhabitants. I have seen the poor Indians disappear one by one from this coast where they used to live; everywhere and at all times civilization is fatal to the coloured races." *' By what chance," said I, " did you become possessor of this land ? Did you foresee the future of California ? " " Not the least in the world. As I have told you, I came here in search of gold, of which there is abundance, as we now know ; but I did not know how to find it. After buying the land which surrounds us, 1 was discouraged and weary of wandering about, so I determined to cultivate the vine, which has always flourished wonderfully in California. I dreamt of providing the two Americas with wine, and entering into trading negotiations with Europe. Unfortunately, I reckoned without considering the indolence of the natives, and, for want of help, I was obliged to give up my plans. Having made up my mind to go back to the Sonore, I tried in vain to sell the lands I had bought, even at the most insignificant price. I could find no purchaser. I went away, taking my title-deeds with me ; and again I set out in search of the El Dorado dreamt of by Cortez, and near which I had just been unconsciously living." " How was it you did not put forward your rights directly after the cession of California to the United States, on the rise of San Francisco ? " " You forget, my good friend, that the rise of this city has been in some measure startling. In less than six months the village, the greater part of which was in my possession, became a considerable town, and if I had dared mention my rights to the first emigrants, I should soon have had a bullet through me. Nevertheless, I could have made good my claims if, as I have just told you, I had not then been lost in the wilds of La Sonore. At the present day the right of the strongest is no longer the only law which governs this fine country, and I confidently await my twenty millions of dollars." Night was coming on. My companion got up, and I followed him. We returned to the town by the Chinese quarter, and in passing between two rows of little shops lighted by coloured 84 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. lanterns, I could quite fancy myself for the moment in a city of the Celestial Empire. San Francisco is the most dusty city in the world, for the hills on which it is built are dov/ns, from which fine white dust rises with the slightest breeze. Built hastily and at hazard- tho houses are cramped together on the steepest hills without any regard to the convenience of foot passengers. The town, at first built of wood, has been several times destroyed by fire, and is gradually being reconstructed of stone. It is of no use to work continually for the edification of new inhabitants. San Francisco is always too small for the population it contains. One must be very rich to have a house of one's own in this city ; thus it is that the majority of the inhabitants live at hotels. But every day civilization accomplishes its wonders here ; the streets are laid out in straight lines, paved, and provided with side walks. If the police still leave much to be desired, they are neverthe- less beginning to protect the public against the bands of ill- doers of all nationalities, who from the first made this a place of resort. The gold fever has given way to that of agriculture, and California grain is now to be seen in European markets. There is no thought of misery in this fortunate city, where paper-money is unknown ; and at the time at which I am writing the dollar might be considered as the equivalent of the French franc. Will this prosperity last? Yes, if one considers that but a third of the whole country is cultivated, and that vast tracts of land where European grain and tropical productions might grow, still remain to be cleared. After having taken me through the districts of a city, too often described for me to hazard giving a slight sketch, which would no longer be true at the present day, my companion invited me to dine with him, and told me his history more at length. He bitterly complained of his partner, whose exigencies, he t-aid, prevented the Washington Cabinet from closing the credit which the incessantly growing city rendered every day incalculably more valuable. My companion had accompanied me to my room, where we talked together until about ten o'clock, when our conver- o ■S---- ^^V X as H --a . "•^♦■f- ■W^^ ,%!^ ■ J^"-"''^"- SAN FR.'ils CISCO. 85 sation was interrupted by the sound of cries and a pistol-shot below us. " What is happening ? " I cried. " Oh ! some dispute between two gamblers." We went down ; the report which we had heard proceeded from a revolver which its owner had let fall, and which had discharged itself. I entered the gaming-room, brilliant with gilding and lights. A score of men with neglected beards, dressed in woollen shirts, and pistols in their belts, were sitting at a table covered with green cloth, gambling and paying their stakes with gold-dust. Chinamen were taking round grog, consisting more of brandy than water, and often receiving from the fortunate gamesters a pinch of the precious metal. In short, it was a sorry spectacle, and I did not stop long in this den. I was obliged to start for Mazatlan the next morning, and at break of day my friend of the preceding evening awoke me, and accompanied me to the American schooner on which I was to embark. " Now you know all my affairs," said he to me, " what would you do in my place ? " " I should accept the ten millions already offered," I replied, " and then make for Europe as quickly as possible, to live there in peace." " Pooh ! " said he. " With my ten millions, which, in fact, would be reduced to five, since I have to share them, I should be nobody in London or Paris. Yes, I must have the twenty millions ; I have nieces to portion." Five years later, when riding through Cordova, a small town situated on the high-road from Vera-Ciuz to Mexico, I alighted before a grocery shop, where I wanted to buy a box of fusees. What was my surprise on seeing behind the counter my San Franciscan acquaintance. The Mexican newspapers had spoken of his lawsuit, then of his imprisonment; some had even said that the title-deeds he produced were false. Jonan — I think I may mention his name without indiscretion — took me into the parlour behind his shop, and again related his history to me. 86 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. He had, in fact, been in gaol, and after two years of imprison- ment, had succeeded in escaping. " I ought to have followed your advice," said he to me; "but in order to secure my ten millions, I had the bright idea of changing the square roods on the title-deeds into square acres. This little game would have succeeded, and it would have been a smart piece of business to do the Yankees out of fifty million Vhen I could per- suade him to talk for a minute, I led him on to tell me about his voyages, and nothing was more amusing than the remarks of this heen observor ; and after all, of all the countries he had seen, one only seemed to him beautiful, fertile, gay — his own. He knew of nothing superior to the cottage where he was bom, where his mother was waiting for his return. The voyage to Yucatan, where the yellow fever is so prevalent, is always well- paid, and an increase of salary had tempted the cabin-boy to visit Campeachy instead of New York. Deerfoot had his theories : he firmly believed in God, and not at all in the yellow fever ; or rather, according to him, the disease would only attack silly people. He only thought of one thing, which was the geveuty- five francs which his voyage was to gain him. He regarded his seventy-five francs as an inexhaustible mine, and the Zampa would not be able to contain the things he intended buying for his mother with this sum so hardly earned. Deerfoot had hardly reached the age I spoke of, when one thinks one's self master of one's life. It is an undeniable fact that I quite forgot the bad weather when I was able to get a few minutes' con- versation with the little sailor. He repeated his words a little, as blunt honest hearts have a way of doing, but one was never tired of listening to him. The life of a passenger on board ship is insupportable ; the idleness to which one is condemned makes the time seem doubly long, and the unfortunate traveller carries his weariness from stem to stem, and from deck to cabin. One cannot alvrays read, the walks backwards and forwards become irksome ; never- theless, exercise is beneficial. Thus it is that directly I go on board a vessel, I place myself in apprenticeship and try to make 90 3IY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. myself useful for my own sake. I go up into the yards, I learn the names of the rigging, how to manage the helm, and the hundred and one ways of tying a knot. Provided with this knowledge, I help the sailors in their work — at least, I look as if I were helping them, which gains their friei dship. Without counting the captain, the second mate, and Deerfoot, I soon had other friends on board the Zamjpa ; these were Mathurin, John, and Pomic. I do not know whether I ought to reckon Baudoin among the number. Baudoin lived on deck in the boat placed near the mainmast. He was rather bad-tempered, and never left oflF gruml'ling. Gifted with a formidable and not at all delicate appetite, he was never satisfied. Deerfoot often reproached him oti this account. However, this sulky, surly Baudoin was very good friends with me. I often obtained leave in the mornings for him to be allowed to walk about the deck ; and the poor creature, as little accustomed to the pitching as to the rolling, tried to follow me, stumbling, picking himself up, and then, infuriated, taking refuge in his last resource of grunting. We had to use force to get him reinstated in his boat ; for the captain, a strict observer of rules, would never allow a passenger of the 'tween decks to ascend the steps leading on to the poop. The reason of this rigour is not wanting in logic : a cabin passenger pays about twenty pounds, and a passenger of the 'tween decks only twelve ; now, a sum of six pounds makes a gulf between two men, the depth of which is only known to those who have experienced a long sea-vo}age. At first sight one might think that a second-class passenger was necessarily an inferior being in every respect to a first-class passenger. Well, it may be strange, but such is not the case In my seven voyages — I do not recall them for the sake of boasting — I have met with ais many well-educated and intel- lectual men below the poop as above. I err : Baudoin was superior to no one; he was less a passenger than a victim, and the captain was right in excluding him from the reserved enclosure. Baudoin was a victim ! The shipowner's orders allowed of TORTOISE ISLAND. 91 no weakness on the part of the captain ; he was to have the prisoner executed as soon as we should have reached a certain degree of latitude. What was the crime of the unfortunate creature ? Alas ! that incident to his race : he was good to eat. One evening, a fortnight after leaving Havre, as the wind had subsided for the moment and was content with filling out the sails, the captain, smoking his pipe on deck, answered Baudoin's grunting by bragging to me of his cook's talents. The bad weather had so far prevented the head steward from making a display of his culinary science. After the execution of Baudoin, I should eat — so the captain assured me — black puddings, sausages, ham, brawn, and bacon, such as I had never eaten before. This little enumeration is, I suppose, enough to let my readers know that Baudoin belonged to that class of pachy- dermous animals of which Mr. Isidore Geoffrey had made the family of the Sulliens, and which are called boars, sows, or hogs, according to their sex or age. In passing, I may remark that, with fowls and turkeys, the animal that served as a dog to St. Antony is one of the greatest resources in long voyages. It is known at what epoch turkeys were civilized ; but no one can tell the original type of the pig, so well-modified and transformed by English breeders. As for the fowl, it is thought to be a native of Persia, and what is known for a fact is, that India from the remotest times has furnished us with this useful species of bird. On the other hand, Europeans wore greatly surprised to find domestic fowls in all the South Sea Islands. At Oualan, an island situated between the group of the Carolines and the Mulgravian Archipelago, although fowls were very plentiful, they were not used for food by the natives, who only learnt that they were good to eat from the crew of la Coquille. Fowls, turkeys, pigs, dogs, cats, horses, in fact, all domestic animals, vary very much in form, plumage, or skin, which greatly perplexes naturalists. Climate has undoubtedly a great deal to do with these transformations, and it is to this that must be attributed a peculiarity met with on the south coast of the Gulf of Mexico, 92 MY E AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. where one finds fowls with black flesh. Although disagreeable to look at, these negro fowls are quite as tender and savoury as any others. Do you doubt, my reader, that there is a country where black fowl is served up at table? I have many times been asked to take some, and have helped others to it. Five weeks after leaving Havre, we were sailing on a tepid sea in splendid weather, and every one on board the Zampa had forgotten the hardships of the first fortnight. Four good mothers of families, with their children, had successively made their appearance on the 'tween decks, accompanied by four working-men, the fathers of this little colony. At the table where I had for so long kept company with the captain and the second mate, I now found the widow of a planter, a good lady, but rather afiected ; then a fat gentleman, who, from his thick gold chain, his trinkets, studs, and rings, I took at first for a jeweller. I was mistaken. I was in the presence of a banker, who, having bought some land at Yucatan, was going to inspect it with a view to colonizing. Twenty-four hours after Mr. Martin, Count Simeon de Monistrol made his appearance. He was young, well dressed, neither plain nor handsome, but a great fop. As soon as he had taken his place next to the widow, he talked to me of hardly anything else than his horses, his shooting-grounds, his estates, and, in lieu of ancestors, of his money. Noisy discussions took place between these two passengers, who had no sympathy with each other. The captain listened to their discussion with a knowing look, only interfering when it verged upon a dispute. As for myself, I found Monsieur Simeon too aristocratic, and Mr. Martin too wealthy, not to keep me at a distance. In revenge, I paid attention to Dona Mencia and her daughter Clara, amiable Spanish ladies, living in Yucatan, but who had been brought up at Paris. Dona Mencia was a relative of one of my friends at Mexico ; so we willingly enough formed an acquaintance. Nevertheless, we were much amused at our companions' discussions, especially when Monsieur Simeon de Monistrol styled Mr, Martin the haron ; a title which wo all soon adopted for the Croesus. TORTOISE ISLAND. 93 The confidence shown me by Dona Me:", , drew on me from time to time a sarcastic remark from these gentlemen, especially when they saw me talking familiarly with the passengers of the 'tween decks. These good people knew nothing of America, thus they were glad of any information I could give them ; and I prepared them somewhat for the difficulties and annoyances which they would be sure to meet with in this foreign land. Dona Mencia and her daughter took great interest in the women and the children, and every day distributed some of their own wardrobe among them. Deerfoot, who had been obliged to serve as general valet to every one, rose still higher in my esteem. The sea no longer amused itself with playing him bad jokes and doubling his work, so that the cabin-boy had now a little leisure. I under- took to teach him to read ; but soon Miss Clara replaced me at the lesson hour, as, taking the advice of the second mate, I profited by the fine weather to devote myself to fishing, or rather to letting out lines, which, after having floated from sunrise to sunset on the surface of the golden sea, returned fruit- lessly to their box. One daj, a sailor of the name of Lambert, the only one with whom I was not intimate, brutally struck little Deerfoot. I snatched the lad from the coward's grasp, which action drew upon me a volley of coarse insults. Stunned by the blow, with a bleeding face the poor little lad crept up to Baudoin's boat, and there wept in silence, his sense of honour preventing him from making any complaint. This w^as not the first time Lam- bert had ill-treated the poor cabin-boy. In the evening, when all was quiet, and the captain and I were smoking together on the poop, Lambert came up to take the helm. I at once took the opportunity of speaking in a loud voice of the sailor's brutality and insolence ; and the captain, who was ill-satisfied with the man's service, severely reprimanded him. Lambert made no reply ; but when he was relieved from his watch, he passed close by me and swore that he would throw me in the sea on the first favourable opportunity. The threat did not frighten me ; nevertheless I had received a warning, £»nd not caring to take a bath in the open sea, I k^pt on my guard. 94 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. Three days after this, the captain came on deck just as Lamhert was again ill-treating Deerfoot. The commander of the Zampa was a kind man, but he strictly enforced discipline. Lambert received a rough shaking in his turn ; and the captain threatened to give him over to the first man-of-war we met, where he would learn obedience. Grumbling fiercely between his teeth, he declared, that not only would he throw me into the sea, but that he would send Deerfoot and the captain after me; which threat very much alarmed Dona Mencia and her daughter. We were in search of the trpde winds, which always blow in the direction of the diurnal movement of the sun; that is to say, from east to west. This phenomenon very much terrified the companions of Christopher Columbus ; for seeing the wind blow persistently in the same direction, they feared they should never get back to Spain. Science now explains the natural cause of these trade winds. They are composed of an upper and lower current, produced by the unequal heat of two bodies of air, which thus glide one over the other to recover their equili- brium. Before this discovery, the cause of the wind was attri- buted to the rotation of the earth, the movement of which was thus almost palpable. If sailors are eager to find the trade wind, they feel, nevertheless, some apprehension in approaching the equator; they dread the equatorial calms, which seem as though of eternal duration. There is not a breath of wind ; the ship lies motionless; the sun's rays fall vertically on the deck, melting the pitch which joins the planks of the ship, and the sea is as smooth as glass, without the slightest movement. A month may pass thus before a tempest liberates the ship from this too placid serenity. Water and pro vip ions become exhausted ; the sailors, wearied by this monotonous calm, in- tently watch the horizon, and pray for the storm, which may prove so formidable to them. Nothing in the way of disasters and vexations seemed to be wanting during our passage, and one morning we found our- selves caught in one of these disastrous calms. The captain ^&3 t -^:'" :M \ )_ -- \ K1 IH^pI ^---^ ..^*^ 1 ^v ^MM ^Bp^ i ^^^E -ti^^' luiM^^^^^^l M^p \ 't 1 ^ ' ''^'-** H '..>,_^i?^=''^. . -«iBfflEfi«^- -^^^— ---- ^' ^isoOm^ Ilk- ' ■''^-- ^SIHIHB^E^l \^'^^ ^^^^^^^ft |. ;:^_.; .^ -^^^?^-;. K7 3 AMn\W \W^m i \ ''\'^^'- X H TORTOISE ISLAND. 95 became irritable ; the count and the baron, being unable to breathe, were at last obliged to postpone for a time their inter- minable discussions. The ship, transfonaed into a furnace, v. « uninhabitable; thus we were obliged to live on deck. Assisted by the second mate, I made a sheltered seat on the poop for Dona Mcncia and her daughter, who were stifled in their cabins ; and every evening, turning towards the setting sun, we whistled for a breeze — an infallible means of obtaining one, according to the sailors. We whistled for a week ; and the cloudless sky tinged the sea with a deep blue. Seated at the stem of the Z'ampa, I spent many hours examining the transparent water, and gazing into its fathomless depths. Sometimes a sea-monster would make his appearance quite close to us : a whale, according to some, and a shark according to others ; but it never stayed long enough for us to determine its real form. The Zampa, more motionless than if she had been lying at anchor in a river, creaked mournfully. There was not the slightest current ; the things we threw overboard floated round the ship, and I was invariably unsuccessful in my fishing. One afternoon we received a visit from a phaeton, commonly called a ring-tail. The phaeton lives between the tropics of Cancer and Capricorn ; its manner of flying is graceful, and very powerful. The magnificent bird at first hovered above us, with outstretched wings, as though it were fastened to the sky ; then, swooping gently down, it flew round our masts, and again soaring upwards, disappeared from our sight with a few strokes of its wings. On the same day, hastily ascending from the hold where he made frequent inspections, in fear of a fire through spontaneous combustion, the captain ran to his cabin and reappeared, armed with a revolver. On a sign from him, Deerfoot violently rang the bell on board, to give an alarm. Passengers and sailors hurried on deck. " Seize that wretch ! " cried the captain, pointing to Lambert, " and bring him to me." Lambert turned pale, and tried to get into the shrouds ; but 96 MT It AMBLES IN TEE NEW WORLD. seeing Mathuriii in his way, he threw himself into an attitude of defence. On a second order, the sailors soon secured their companion. " Put him in irons ! " said the commander, sharply. Then, whilst they were obeying him, and wo looked on at this strange scene, the captain spoke rapidly to the second mate, who, whilst he listened, shook his fist at the prisoner. CHAPTER II. Scarcity of fresh water— The calm — Flying-fish — Dorado — Tropical grass — St. Domingo — Tortoise Island — Freebooters and pirates — An unexpected meeting. Had Lambert killed one of his mates ? They were all capable of defending themselves, and none of them disposed to be ill- treated. Deerfoot was walking about the deck, so that he was out of the question. Although the sailors had unhesitatingly obeyed their captain's orders, they did not seem very ill-dis- posed towards their companion ; they even smiled after having exchanged a few words with the helmsman, who had just come up after the captain from the hold. "The beer ration will be doubled now," said Mathurin to Pomic. "If the shipowner had an idea of this, it would be enough to prevent him from sleeping." " Provided there is enough on board." " There is too much," replied Mathurin. " For my own part, I stowed away forty or fifty barrels." " To the pumps ! " cried the second mate. The work at the pumps was an exercise in which I always joined; so I ran to my post. The Zampa had been recently repaired, and seemed proof against anything, and the work at the pumps might be considered as a simple precaution. This time, to my great surprise, water was flowing from the ship's sides ; and I afterwards learnt that Lambert, in an excess of mad TORTOISE ISLAND. 97 folly, had bored holes through all the reservoirs containing our supply of fresh water, and it was this precious reserve that we were throwing into the sea ! Nevertheless, the oflfence, grave as it was, did not seriously annoy me. I knew what an enormous supply of wine and beer the ship contained, and the idea of thirst and its intolerable sufferings was done away with. The culprit, humble, dumb, and struck with consternation, was placed at the foot of the mainmast near Baudoin, who protested against this by energetic grunts. At dinner time we found the dishes rather salt, and the cook was accused of having a heavy hand. The poor steward justified himself by saying, that for want of fresh water ho had been obliged to use sea- water, to which — he assured us quite seriously, — we should accustom ourselves in a fortnight. Mr. Martin drank the wine pure, M. de Monistrol did the same ; but the ladies, from habit, were wanting water every minute, and sadly turned away their heads when Deerfoot roguishly oifered to draw some from the ocean for them. The passengers of the 'tween decks were as pleased as the crow at the double ration of beer distributed among them. The captain was the only one who seemed at all anxious. Next morning, at the time l)eerfoot usually filled our cabin cans, he was less parsimonious than usual, and generously distributed a liquid full of salt, soda, potash, magnesia, chalk, iodine, etc. By reason of which numerous ingredients, sea-water has the vexatious property of neither cooking meat nor vegetables, and of stoutly refusing all combination with soap. I must confess that Lambert's trick now appeared to me in a new and disagreeable light. At the end of a week, we were literally dying of thirst, doubly intensified by the air, and the enforced use of pure wine. One afternoon, guided by Providence, a score of flying-fish settled on our deck. The steward at once seized the clumsy creatures, and cooked them, and we found their white, delicate flesh a great luxury. The flying-fish, or exocet (a word derived from the Greek, n 98 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. Tneaning out of its house), is about the size of a lierrin*^. Its back has a beautiful >)biiHh tint, and its pectoral fins, which aro large, allow of its not only rising in the air, but of its skimming over the ocean at a distance of about a yard from the water. The flying-fish is often seen under the tropical rays darting like an arrow, flying from the pursuits of the liungry dorado, which often snaps up the fugitive just as its dried fins oblige it to fall back into the water. When the sea is calm, the exocet, which almost always flics horizontally, goes for several hundred yards ; but wlien the water is rough, it springs from wave to wave, and seems to bound like the ^a ' Htones with which children amuse themselves in making ducks and drakes. They almost always swim in shoals, and they spread themselves out by millions around ships, the enormous bulk of which probably astonishes them. Twenty-four hours after the capture of the exocets, just as I was drawing in my line, which floated from morning to night at the stem, I felt something heavy at the end, which augured well. Little by little, with Deerfoot's assistance, I landed a dorado, a yard long, the brilliant colour of which was a cause of general admiration. The fine fish struggled for a long while in painful agony, and its body assumed successively all the colours of the rainbow, a phenomenon well known to sailors. A slight cloud was at last seen on the bluish horizon, and was hailed by loud hurrahs from the crew. It floated along, grew larger, and then was lost in the golden mist of the setting sun. I awoke in the middle of the night; it seemed to me that the ship, leaning on the port side, was creaking more than usual. I was not deceived ; we were moving, and the masts of the Zampa were furnished with sails. Setting foot on deck, I uttered a cry of surprise ; we were surrounded by tropical grass ; we might have thought ourselves in the midst of an immense prairie. The onward progress of th6 vessel enlivened us a little, and we wanted something to cheer us up, for we felt low-spirited and dull enough. The crew had begun to feel the bad effects of the want of fresh water, and to complain of it. Our lips were TOIiTOISE ISLAND, 99 parched and blcodi^g, and the wine, far from appcaHing the intolerable thirst to which wo were a prey, only sei-ved to increase it. The women especially suffered from this state of things. Mr. Martin would have willingly given a thousand crowns, and M. de Monistrol one of his castles, to any one who could liave offered him a glass of pure fresh water, as each of them remembered having quaffed with delight. Canipeachy, the place of our destination, was still too far off for it to be possible for us to reach it without renewing our supply of fresh water; our health would have failed, and the captain thought of putting into port. He resolved to take us to Tortoise Island, in order to avoid paying anchorage, pilotage, and tonnage dues, required of every vessel which enters a harbour open to commerce. Thus the bow of the Zampa was turned in this direction. I was pleased with this slight alteration of the ship's course, and not at all sorry to visit the ancient fortress of the bold pirates who, in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, were the cause of so much haim to Spanish commerce, and gave St. Domingo to France. On the 2oth of February, the day on which we ought to have reached Campeachy if our passage had been accomplished regularly, we came in sight of the French cape, and, coasting alongside the large island of Hayti, we saw rising to our left, the crests of the Cibao Mountains. The Island of St. Domingo, called Hispaniola by Christopher Columbus, was, in 1495, the seat of the first European settlement in America. It became legally French at the peace of Ryswick — that is to say, in 1C97. A century later, the National Assembly having decreed the eiliancipation of the negroes, the result of this liberal proceeding was the massacre of the white people, and Hayti proclaimed its independence. The sight of land increased our sufferings, and the captain had hard work to resist the passengers' entreaties that we might land at once; but he had the shipowner's interests to consider before us. So he shut himself up in his cabin to avoid our complaints. The wind was favourable, but still the Zampd'a progress did not satisfy our impatience. 100 MY It AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. Under any other circiimstancos, this unexpected detour in our voyage wouhl liavo heen full of interest, and we should have loft the land behind us without any feelings of regret. Ah fishing-hoats were sailing between us and the shore, wo hoped to see one come near enough to sell us fruit or to give us a sup])ly of water. Vain hope ! In order to get what we wanted, we should have been obliged to makr lignals and heave to; and our captain had but one care, whien was to advance and make up for lost time. Often very pretty birds, led l)y their own caprice, or carried by the wind, would perch among our rigging, and then as ■unexpectedly fly away again. I eveii met with a poor butterfly, with purple and blue wings, which I presented to Dofia Clara. Placed })y the young girl in a luxurious bed of cotton wool at the bottom of a little box, the beautiful lepidoptera succumbed during the night ; which I believe cost its new mistress a tear. Crouching at the foot of the mainmast, a victim, like ourselves, to hiis wicked prank, Lambert would look at us with wild, hopeless eyes. Discipline, without which a long voyage would become impossible, required that ho should be given over to the first man-of-war wo met; and there the unfortunate creature would have to serve for a year or two, in addition to the corporal punishment ho would receive. The women, not- withstanding their sufferings, were the only ones who had self-denial and goodness enough to pity the prisoner. I am wrong. Deerfoot, under pretence of attending to Baudoin, who owed a prolongation of his life to the want of water, often lingered near Lambert and talked to him. " If he had the chance, sir," said the good little cabin-boy to me, " ho would not do it again, for he is dreadfully sorry for his wickedness. He has already served on board a man-of-war ; and with the bad character he will get from here, he will scarcely be able to find another berth. He says it was not his fault, it was his bad temper. He has asked mo to forgive him for having beaten me, and he is even sorry at having insulted you. Do you know, sir, we ought to try and beg the captain to let him off." TORTOISE ISLAND. 101 Dona Moncia and her daughter liad soon drawn up a ] tctition ; hut the second mate, to v/hom I Hpoko of the proceed- ing, assured nio that it wouhl bo useless. The captain would bo obliged to give strict account to the shipowner of the events on board, especially when they had such serious results as those which at present were taking us to Tortoise Island. On the other hand, to allow such an infractian of discipline to go unpunished, would be to mako the captain appear unworthy of his position as commander. Nevertheless, far from being discouraged by these reasons. Dona Mencia resolved to wait until the reservoirs should be full of water, and the nearness to port make all hearts less implacable. " I shall beg the captain so hard that I shall obtain at least an alleviation of tliis poor sailor's punishment," said Dona Clara. " I ask you as a favour," added she, looking at me beseechingly, *' not to complain so loudly nor so often of being thirsty before the captain ; I have noticed that it irritates him still more against Lambert." I promised, and kept my word. At last the coast of St. Domingo disappeared ; a bluish line, which grew rapidly larger, stretched before us. It was Tortoise Island. The followers of Columbus must certainly have experienced a lively joy when they first discovered America ; that is to say, the Island of Guanahani, or San Salva- dor. I doubt, nevertheless, whether their joy was greater than ours at the sight of the tall Mimosas which border the northern coast of the ancient pirate stronghold. Although about thirty miles in length. Tortoise Island is only accessible by the channel which separates it from Hayti. All its northern coast is surrounded with rocks ; but our captain, whom I then suspected of having once been a smuggler, «eemed to know all the ins and outs of the coast lying before us. Towards five o'clock the Zampa, skilfully steered, entered a little creek and cast anchor about a mile and a half from land. The long-boat was got ready, lowered, and loaded with empty casks. My reputation as a worker gained for me, as well as two of the passengers of the 'tween decks, the good fortune 102 MV B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOItLT). of taking part in this expedition. Thin favour provoked energetic protest from Baron Martin and the CVmnt do Monistrol, who seemed to consider this privilege as a want of respect to thera. I'lic captain left these august persons to grumble to their hearts' content, and got into the boat where three sailors and Deerfoot had already taken their places. Night came on as we landed. - ■ ■ • ■ • Eolling the barrels along, we began to climb the rocks, which was no easy matter when, like the burden of Sisyphus, the casks were continually threatening to fall back on us. When we had reached the summit of the rocks the captain seemed to hesitate for a moment; then, giving us the order to halt, he descended the hill-side. After a quirter of an hour's absence ho returned, visibly satisfied. Following his steps, at the risk of being ci-ushod l)y the fall of o^t barrels, we came to the source of a email stream gushing from a rock, into the basin of which I unceremoniously plunged u 'th a cry of delight. The first cask was filled, an operation which took no less than two hours. Not wishing to lose time, nor be surprised in the act of landing, the captain was anxious to set sail again at break of day ; thus he urged us on to work without intermission. But if the barrels were filled without any trouble, it was no slight work to get them back to the shore. J had to remain and watch the thin stream of water which a zinc gutter, brought fen* this purpose, conveyed straight to the bung-holes of the casks; whilst my companions, perspiring, panting, and relieving each other from time to time, were occupied in rolling the casks to the shore. On their return, they told mo that the captain, Deerfoot, and Mathurin had gone back to the ship, taking the water,, which we found so delicious, to the poor creatures so anxiously waiting for it. When the sun rose, only three of our barrels were embarked. The workmen, overcome with fatigue, stretched themselves beside the fourth cask and went to sloop. I had neither the courage to blame nor oppose them taking their well-earned rest, and in the mean time amused myself botanizing. The island being well-populated, I was surprised to see no "ROLLING THE liARRKLS. -^ I TORTOISE ISLAND. 103 trace revea xig the presence of man, and more astonished still that the approach of the Zampa had not attracted any of the inhabitants. We were at the bottom of a gorge, where only a few Mimosas were to be seen growing here and there. I climbed the slope in front of me, and as soon as I reached the top, I looked down into a deep valley which I could see, as well as another low range of hills. I caught sight of a hut in the distance, and was rather startled by suddenly hearing a cock crow, and then a dog bark. I sat down, happy at being able to see trees, flowers, birds, and butterflies, after spending so many days between sea and sky ; it was an infinite pleasure to tread on firm ground, and inhale the fragrant odours. It seemed strange to be on this island, which owes its name to its form, and plays an important part in the history of France. I recalled to mind the names of the bold pirates whose histories have been related by Oexmelin and Archenholz, heroes who, after having taken Panama in 1670, Maracaibo in 1677, Vera-Cruz in 1683, Carthagena in 1697, would perhaps have conquered America, had their policy been equal to their courage. I remembered that the first adventurers who settled on Tortoise Island came from the Island of St. Christopher, then possessed both by the English and French. After disembarking, the new comers at once divided themselves into three classes, which are often mistaken one for the other : the buccaneers, or hunters ; the filibusters, or pirates ; the inhabitants, or cultivators. The buccaneers took their name from the wooden hurdle, boucan, which they made use of in drying the flesh of animals killed for their skins. It was at the expense of the Spaniards, who made no scruple of occasionally killing them, that the buccaneers exerc" -^'^>d their industry. Bold, bravo, and accustomed to a life of haxv^siiips, the buccaneers were easilj'^ transformed into filibusters. The latter, who were true pirates, often gave chase to the Spanish vessels, and sometimes ravaged the coasts of Mexico and Peru, and made the cities pay ransom. As to the inhabitants, a people of more regular habits, they slowly and honestly heai)ed up fortunes through their agricultural employments. 104 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. The greater part of the French and English adventurers were driven from Tortoise Island by the Spaniards, who were inconvenienced by their proximity. But the buccaneers, under the command of the Englishman Willis, regained possession of their fortress, firmly established themselves there, and resumed their excursions on the Island of St. Domingo. The French, thus consigned to the second rank, demanded aid from their compatriots, settled in the Island of St. Christopher, and the Chevalier de Poincy, who commanded in these coasts, listened favourably to their request. M. le Vasseur, engineer to the king, embarked on Tortoise Island in 1640, at the head of forty soldiers, and as many volunteers. The English decamped with- out offering battle, and the conqueror at once employed his men in building the fort of La Roche, which still exists. Thus master of a little kingdom, Le Vasseur busied himself in duly administering the government. He repulsed an attack of the Spaniards; but the desire to enrich himself made him hard, cruel, and unjust, and he was assassinated by two of his officers. The Chevalier de Fontenay then took his place, and the free- booters, sure of finding a protector here, resumed their marauding expeditions. Exasperated by the losses from which they suffered, the Spaniards had recourse to strong measures, banished the chevalier, and were soon after dislodged by M. de Eossey, who gave up the island to M. d'Ogeron, the representative of the French Company in the West Indies. The filibusters reckon the Englishman Morgan as one of their most celebrated chiefs ; it was under his command that they took Panama. Pierre Legrand, whose adventurous life was quite a romance, one day, with a boat equipped by twenty-eight men, took possession of a Spanish ship carrying fifty-two guns. Nau L'Olannais and Michel le Basque, at the head of four hundred filibusters, accomplished marvels of daring; unfor- tunately, they were as cruel as they were brave, and animated with undying hatred against the Spaniards, they more than once dishonoured their victories. Finally, Montbars, surnamed the Exterminator, pillaged Vera-Cruz in 1683 ; he was the last of the great filibusters. TORTOISE ISLAND. 105 I was in the midst of my reveries, and as the sun rose above the horizon, I sav/ the plain stretching at my feet display its healthy and varied vegetation. Suddenly a rustling of leaves and sound of broken branches was heard. I got up, expecting to see some animal make its appearance ; but it was no other than the prisoner of the Zampa, my enemy, the sailor Lambert. CHAPTER III. Return to the fhip— The captain and Dofia Clara— A man-ofwar— The pursuit— Pristfuers !—Baudoin'8 departure— The spermaceti whales— Campeachy — Lambert again — Andre-Marie. I QUICKLY sprang to a tree, and stood with my back against it. I confess I felt some misgivings, as I had no weapons; and a hand to hand struggle could only show me in a very practical manner a truth which I had not the lea o doubt of in theory : the muscular superiority of a sailor's arms. Nevertheless, I put on a brave face, and made up my mind to give blow for blow, as far as possible. Lambert had stood still, and was deliberately watching me. Seeing me pick up a dry branch, which would have been a very inferior weapon, he held out both his hands to me. " I do not wish you any harm, sir ; on the contrary, I have come to beg of you. ' " How is it you are free ? " " I escaped this morning by swimming. The ladies on board took off my irons." " There," thought I, " that is generosity, which will cost me ■dearly." Lambert drew nearer. " I have done wrong," said he to me. " You can see I do not hesitate to confess my wickedness ; but I don't want to go on board a man-of-war ; I want to get my living. I mean to go to St. Domingo, and take service on board the first American ]06 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOItLT). coasting- vessel that wants a sailor, and to make tip for my wickedness by behaving well." " Does not your desertion expose yon to some severer punish- ment in the future, than that from which you are now flj'ing ? " " It condemns me to exile ; but I have got my liberty, which I want, as I have told you. Besides, time settles many things." " What do you want ? " " A little money, a loan," said Lambert to me, turning red. " I have some way to go before I reach the Cape, and the negroes are not always hospitable." I had not been thirsty since the preceding evening ; I was happy at being able to tread the ground, and to hear tlie birds warbling ; added to this, the penitent look of the sailor, from whom I had at first dreaded violence, disposed mo to be com- passionate. I could not help pitying the unfortunate creature, whom an outbreak of passion placed in a position which might end in a long exile for him. I thought I ought to give him a little advice, which ho listened to patiently enough, whilst at the same time on the qui vive for the slightest sound. Ho was afraid that his escape was perceived ; that the captain in his wrath would have a search made for him. A sharp whistle was heard. I ended my lecture by giving the sailor my purse, which contained five pounds. He pressed my hand warmly, and at the sound of a second whistle darted off, running down the wooded slope towards the valley. I turned round to go back to the spring, and met Mathurin. The whistling was for me. The last cask ought to have been embarked, and the captain was signalling for us to rejoin the Zampa. Mathurin did not say a word to me about Lambert, and I took care not to speak of my meeting with him. On reaching the crest of the rocks overlooking the sea, I cast a last look on Tortoise Island, which I had no hopes of seeing again ; then I embarked, taking with me a wonderful bouquet of wild flowers for Dona Mencia. It was about ten o'clock, and the captain, attributing the delay to me, when it was really caused by the fatigue of the workmen, accosted me rather gruffly on my return to the ship. TOnTOTSK ISLAND. 107 I was silent; the most prudent conduct in dealing with an irritated man, but my reticence was really duo to Dona Mencia and her daughter, who from the poop were making signs Uy me to be silent, and to go to them. " Has Lambert spoken to you ? " asked the young girl raj)idly, in a low voice. " Yes ; ho is now in safety. Has the captain discovered his escape ? " " N©t yet," said Doiia Mencia ; " and we are not quite easy about the poor man." I glanced in the direction of the old salt, who, anxious to lose no time in setting sail again, was busy giving the crew countless orders. " You would do well to go to your cabins, and shut yourselvon up there," said I to the ladies. *' The captain does not seem in the least humour for joking ; and there will be a tremendous, storm when he finds out the prisoner's escape." " Do you think he will be seriously angry ? " asked Dona Mencia of me. " I am quite sure of it," I replied. " I shall remain, then," said Dona Clara resolutely ; " hi» anger might fall on some innocent person, and I am ready to answer for my deed." " For our deed, my child," eagerly added Dona Mencia,. kissing her daughter. The Zampa had just left the creek, and, with sails spread, was making for the open sea. The sailors were busy in the rigging when one of them, perched on the topmast, cried — " Ship in sight." The captain sprang on to the poop, seized a telescope, and scoured the horizon. " A man-of-war," said he, after a steady examination, " and she is bearing down upon us. If she is French, I will let her have Master Lambert, although I lose another half-day by it." Wliilst speaking, the captain had turned towards the main- mast. " By all the powers ! " cried ho, " where is the prisoner ? " 108 MY Ji AMBLES JN THE NEW WOULD. The brave captain was the only ono on board who was not aware of the sailor's escape. Every one felt a slight tremor as his infuriated glance rested successively on all the bystanders. As nobody uttered a word, the name of Deerfoot came like a thunderbolt from the captain's compressed lips ; and this impe- Tio"." call v/as answcrtjd by a vulue from the top of the mainmast. " I beg your forgiveness, sir," said Dona Clara, advancing towards the caj)tain with clasped hands and tears in her eyes. The commander took the pipe from his mouth and stood still, expecting an explanation. " Forgiveness for whom ? " asked he at last. " For the poor sailor whom I assisted to escape." " To escape ! " repeated the captain, looking at the sea which surrounded us. *' Lambert swam to Tortoise Island in the night," said I, in my turn. " Not with his handcuffs, I suppose ? " "I took them off him," said Dona Clara, with a slight tremble in her voice. *' Theii, is every one captain here except myself? " roared the old seaman. " No, no, captain," I said eagerly ; " you are the sole master on board the Zampa. You have the right to put Dona Clara in irons, and not one of us, I swear, will say a word against tliis just punishment." " By Heaven ! sir, this is nothing to joke about, and you may learn to your cost that discipline is no idle word on board the ship I have the honour to command. Who gave her the key of the handcuffs ? " "I did," bravely answered Deerfoot, turning as red as a bullfinch. Without making any remark, the captain began to stride backwards and forwards, taking vigorous pulls at his pipe, and muttering incoherent words to himself. Now, when two ships are making for each other, they meet with incredible rapidity, and the ship wo had hailed was already clearly visible to our right. The captain examined her several times through his telescope and seemed perplexed. TOIiTOISE ISLAND. 109" " Hoist tho ensign," said ho to a sailor standing near the steersman. In less than five minutes the tricolour flag was waving in the breeze. The vessel in sight at once responded to our polite- ness, and tho red and blue Kaiticn flag was displayed from her masts. " That makes all the difference," muttered the captain. " To- the sails, lads," he shouted. In less than ten minutes the Zampa's course was slightly altered, and wo were sailing parallel with the little man-of-war. Almost at tho same time, tho sides of the t ^..ooncr were enveloped in a white smoke and a cannon-shot was heard. It was an order to continue our first route or to heavo to and wait. The captain, humming a French ditty, again carefully examined his vessel, and then returned to his study of the schooner. " This fine tropical bird," said he after a time, " would like us to give account for our landing. Unfortunately, I have not time to satisfy her curiosity. They are too impatient to see us at Campeachy. The wind is good, and wo are out of gnn-reach ; we will make acquaintance another time. Leave the flag on the mast, Mathurin ; if we do fly we are not ashamed of showing our colours." The captain's attention being thus suddenly distracted, his wrath had time to cool down. He spent an hour directing tho sailors and convincing himself that our speed surpassed that of the man-of-war. This was an incontestiblo fact, and the captain again hummed to himself with an air of satisfaction. Wo were going a little out of our way ; but we should resume the right direction again under cover of night, when we should pass within gun-shot of the enemy without his seeing us. Thus it was that the captain, rubbing his hands, camo up to Dona Clara to reproach her for her felony, in a voice which, in spite of his intention, was not very terrifying. Tho young girl at first threatened with having her little wrists handcuffed, had not much trouble in obtaining pardon. One of Deerfoot's ears was lightly pulled just for the satisfac- 110 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. tion duo to discipline, and Bona Mcncia had to submit to a long lecture whicli was indirectly meant for my benefit. After all, it was quite a relief to the passengers and crew of the Zampa to lose sight of the unfortunate Lambert from the deck. Baudoin was the only one who had to complain ; his sentence was pronounced, and the hour of his execution fixed for the moment we should have lost sight of the Haitien ship. Following our manoeuvres, the schooner tried to interrupt our route ; the wind was favourable to her and she slowly but surely bore down upon us, greatly to our captain's disgust. The wind suddenly changed, and without the slightest hesitation the captain ordered to tack about; and as in the time of the filibusters, there we were flying before the wind from a ship which suspected us of smuggling, and wanted to know our reason for landing on Tortoise Island. The Zampa was not a good vessel for speed except on a certain tack ; but our captain understood his business, and we took an infinite amount of pleasure in the chase which was given us. Our excitement could not have been greater had we been flying before a privateer; one would have thought that certainly our honour and liberty were at stake. The enemy, being better manned, was making more speed than we did, and driving us towards the coast. What had at first seemed to me a good joke soon became a serious matter. If the schooner reached us, she would undoubtedly oblige us to go to the Cape, there to explain our conduct. This would cause a delay and a series of complications which somewhat troubled the captain. For a quarter of an hour he regretted his whim, and thought of making towards the schooner, in order to come to a friendly imderstanding with the Haitien commander. But having weighed the different chances of his plan, and being convinced by further calculation that the schooner could not reach us before nightfall, he determined to continue his flight. Dinner was soon over, and returning on deck, we were dazzled by the rays of the setting sun. Our vessel was enveloped in a golden mist ; the sky was red, and magnificent clouds hovered over the hills on the coast; but this grand TORTOISE ISLAND. Ill spectacle was lost upon us, as our attention was riveted on the schooner. The little ship was still following in our wake, and had gained enough on the Zampa for us to bo able to dis- tinguish her rigging and sec her crew at work. When the sun disappeared, another cannon-shot again intimated an order for us to heave to ; to which injunction Deerfoot replied by dis- respectfully putting the thumb of his right hand to the end of his nose, while the other fingers were rapidly moved up and down. This vulgar piece of impudence, practised between sea and sky at more than a thousand miles from Paris, amused us more than I can say. M. de Monistrol gaily took part in the chase ; but Mr. Martin seemed very uneasy. " Bullets will come after the powder," said he ; " and who will guarantee that one of their balls may not reach me ? " "No one, certainly," replied the captain; "so in your place I should take refuge in the hold." This question of bullets, brought up by the rich banker, (lid not fail to make Dona Mencia and her daughter rather uneasy. I reassured them by saying, that if our pursuer thought of saluting us with a cannon-ball, ho would take care to send it so as to frighten, but not to send us to the bottom. The truth is, the schooner had perfect right to lodge a ball in the hull of the Zampa; and if she had not already done so, it was because the distance between us was too great. Night came on, a dark night with no moon, under cover of which our captain hoped to make good his flight. He ordered perfect silence on board, and no light was allowed. Towards midnight the Zampa's course was again changed, and with the wind favourable, she again sailed in the direction of Campeachy at a medium speed of not less than eight knots an hour. I went to bed late, and awoke with a start, at the noise of a formidable report. Day was breaking. I was dressed, and I hurried on deck. At less than two hundred yards, a little in advance of us, was the Haition schooner, which this time had just given us an imperative order to heave to, which would have been dangerous to brave. 112 MT JR AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD. Tlio sails of tlio Zampa vroro ono by ono lowered, Lut the ship continued her onward course, carried by the force of impulsion, and then became stationary. Half an hour later, a boat, manned by six negro rowers, came alongside of us; and a mulatto, dressed in an overcoat, white trousers, and l)lue necktie, stopped on our deck. The new comer, of gigantic stature, wore an immense epaulette fastened on to his chest in token of his position as lieutenant. lie came in quest of our captain, who at this moment was deep in thought and visibly annoyed. A glass of rum was offered to the Ilaitien officer, who, after having helped himself to a second tumblerful, unceremoniously passed the bottle to his sailors. Vic could see from the poop all that was going on on board the man-of-war, whoso half- naked crew were in their turn watching us with no small curiosity. The captain of the schooner was a negro. Near him stood a European, dressed in Englisli uniform. They had taken us for 1 slave-ship, and it was a question of reconducting us to Tortoise Island to make inquiries. As a consolation, the lieutenant, showing his white teeth, toid mo that I should have for my prison the palace built by the sistci of Napoleon Paulino Bonaparte, then the wife of General Leclere, when the latter, at the head of twenty thousand men, who were soon brought low by the fatal climate, tried, in 1802, to restore St. Domingo to French dominion. Just as they were returning to the boat which was to take off our captain, he suddenly gave orders for Baudoin to be embarked. The unfortunate guest of the long-boat, disturbed by such unusual proceedings, began to utter such shrill cries, that a certain amount of agitation was visible on board th© strange vessel. " They will think that we are killing their lieutenant, and will fire upon us ! " cried Mr, Martin, in a state of alarm. Fortunately, nothing of the kind happened; and in less than an hour after his departure, our captain came back triumphant. Baudoin had served as ransom for us. The gift of his elegant, person compensated, in the eyes of the commandant, for the TORTOISE ISLAND. 113 infraction of maritime laws wo had committed, in landing where there was no port opened to commerce. " Ah, well ! " said a voice ; " I should have been sorry to have seen poor piggy killed." 'J^he speaker was Dcerfoot, and the poor piggy alluded to was Baudoin, who passed a sad quarter of an hour, judging from tho cries carried back to us by tho breeze. The ZarnjMi's sails were unfurled, the crew of the Ilaitien vessel gave three hurrahs, the French and Ilaitien flags were hoisted as a polite farewell, and, towards nine o'clock in the morning, we had lost sight of tho schooner and the coast of Tortoise Island. A fortniglit after this adventure, without any other incident worth notice occurring, except meeting with two sperm-whales, we were sailing in Campeachy Sound. . At last wo entered the harbour of Campeachy, where European ships come in quest of the precious wood so valuable in dyeing. Campeachy did not escape tho marauding attacks of tho filibusters of Tortoise Island, who pillaged it twice ; it then had an extensive commerce in wax, which at the present day is much diminished. I was obliged to go to Tabasco in a coasting vessel, and tho day following our arrival I reluctantly parted with my fellow- travellers. But see what human greatness amounts to! A letter from Dona Mencia, announcing that she and her daughter had arrived safely at Merida, informed me at the same time that M. Simeon do Monistrol was a clerk in a dry goods store, who had an opening offered him by one of tho best houses in Merida, and that the banker, Mr. Martin, exercised the honourable functions of head steward. I now understood our captain's sly smiles, who, knowing the social position of these two gentlemen, chuckled to himself at their pretentions to nobility, their grand disdainful airs, and their visible contempt for us. Years passed on. One evening, when at New Orleans, I was sitting in a small tavern near tho harbour, where I had been taken to taste a plate of fried oysters, the national dish of tho I 114 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. capital of Louisiana, when a sailor entered, and directly he saw me, came up to me. I had already recognized Lambert. " How glad I am to see you again, sir," said he, holding out his hand to me. *' How is it that I have happened to find you here ?" I answered his question, and motioned to him to take a seat near me. " Have you made your fortune ? " I asked him. " No, but I have earned a good deal of money ; for the Americans, who are in want of sailors, pay much higher wages than our shipowners. But my foolish freak made me, and still makes me, very wretched." " How is that ? " •' For two years I have been dreadfully home-sick. I would give anything to see France again, but I dare not show my face there. Nothing enlivens me, sir; I feel low-spirited and have no appetite. The doctor on board says that I suffer from melancholy. I am home-sick, I know that, and I can't get over it." Lambert spoke in a dejected tone, and, suddenly bursting into tears, refused the oysters and beer which I had ordered for him. I was deeply touched. He possessed excellent certificates from the American captains under whom he had served. So the following day I set to wtrk. Seconded by the lieutenant of the French man-of-wa: stationed at New Orleans, I was fortunate enough to obtain pardon for the deserter, with only a slight penalty. *' By-the-by," I asked, whilst accompanying him to the vessel which was to take him back to his country, "do you know what has become of Deerfoot ? " " Little Jack ? Ho is dead, sir ; died from the yellow fever. Poor Jack ! it was his example that made a better man of mo. For two years I have forwarded to his widowed mother a sum equal to what her son would have gained. I never thought to see you again, and I gave the poor woman the money you lent me." I pressed Lambert's hand, and saddened by the news I had TORTOISE ISLAND. 115 just heard, returned on shore. The memory of the little cabin- boy had done mo good as well as the rough sailor. Whenever I have anything to find fault with in my fello^v-creatures, I think of the generous child, whose coffin is rocked beneath the waves, and for his sake I forgive or forget. A WATERSPOUT AT SEA. -•«*■ St. .Thomas — The Eeverend Mr. Smith — The waterspout at sea — A wish realized — Fears calmed. A FORTNIGHT after leaving Southampton, on the 17th of June, 180 — , the fine English steamer, Magdalena, sighted the Island of St. Thomas. This is about one of the longest passages that steamers make without calling anywhere ; thus their supply of coals becomes exhausted. Passing between two hills crowned with forts, we were saluted by the garrison, composed of a score of Danish soldiers, and we found ourselves in a kind of chasm formed by jierpcndicular rocks. At the bottom of this chasm the houses of the town were built in five rows, in the shape of an amphitheatre. Europeans landing for the first time on American soil go into raptures at the sight of the stunted palm-trees Avhich grow on this stony soil, barren enough in reality. St. Thomas Island is only about two leagues in extent, and possesses no other drinkable water than that which falls from the sky during the storms. It is, nevertheless, the centre of an important and extensive commerce, for the Danes have made it a free port. It is to this island that the merchants of St, Domingo, Cuba, Jamaica, Guadeloupe, Barbadoes, Trinidad, in a word, all the West luJian islands, come in search of European merchandise. Whilst the Magdalena was taking in her supply of coal, I visited the town, which had been recently shaken by a violent cj.rth(|uake. With the exception of the quay, which runs along A WATEH SPOUT AT SEA. 117 in front of the sea-shore, the streets of St. Thomas are only accessible by narrow flights of steps. Negroes and mulattos make up the majority of the population in these streets, and it is a curious spectacle to meet at every step negresses dressed in the latest Parisian fashions, and afiecting the manners of grand ladies. There are enough caricatures here tc employ the pencil of a Cham or Daumier for years ; in short, these ladies play with their fans, in imitation of Spanish graces, firmly believing themselves models of elegance. The day following our putting into port, the Magdalena again continued her route, carrying with her several new passengers, among whom were a Spanish pilot who was to take us to the Havannahs, and a Protestant clergyman who was going to Jamaica. I had dined with him the evening before, in the same hotel ; he p-^ioke French very well, and I was glad to have him as my cabin companion. It was daybreak at half-past five. The eastern sky was streaked with fiery red, and for a quarter of an hour it seemed as though we were sailing through a sea of blood. The atmo- sphere was heavy. Not a wave disturbed the surface of the slumbering sea ; not a breath of the wind which every morning freshened, in some degree, the burning soil of the Island of St. Thomas was to be felt. "We are now on the coasts where waterspouts are almost daily occurrences," said the Reverend Mr. Smith to me ; " never- theless, this is the fifth time that I have sailed in these waters, and I have never once happened to see them disturbed by the least storm." "Neither have I," I replied; "and I consider myself all the more fortunate." "A waterspout at sea," resumed the pastor, "must be a marvellous spectacle ! One of my friends assured me yesterday that he had never left St. Thomas without seeing one in the distance. lie will be disappointed to-day, for that is his ship following in our wake." The sun rose in gorgeous splendour in the clear azure sky; the sea lay before us like a vast sheet of glass ; not a cloud to 118 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. be seen, not a breath of wind. The sails of a small schooner lying to our left, were hanging limp against the masts. I followed my companion to our cabin, to help him arrange his luggage, and then we were summoned to breakfast. All at once the wheels of our steamer ceased turning. : ?> " They are going to sound," said the clergyman to me. " It is neither the place nor the time," I replied. " I am in- clined to think that there is something amiss with the engine." We hurried on deck. The sea was still calm, and there was no breeze. I saw the captain standing at the bows with his telescope in his hand, and the crew grouping round him. On examining the horizon from tlie starboard side, I thought I saw foam-crested waves, and a thin black column rising ujiwards to the sky. " What is it ? " I asked of a sailor. " A waterspout ! " he replied, pointing to the western horizon. The clergyman seized my arm, and our eyes were riveted on the thin column, looking in the distance like a gigantic mast. A sudden squall filled the sails of the schooner, which, taken by surprise, lay on her side. She did not right herself until a sharp gust of wind covered our deck with a fine rain, carrying away some of our rigging. A low, rumbling sound was heard, and the column, which grew larger as it became more distinctly visible, rapidly approached us. The sea grew rough, and the deck was covered with flakes of foam. The schooner had reefed her sails. We saw her rising and sinking, leaning some- times to the right and sometimes to the left, and tossing about like a nutshell ; whilst the terrible column, now like two funnels placed end to end, came steadily onwards. All the steamer's crew — officers, sailors, engineers, stokers, stewards — were on deck, whilst most of the passengers had taken refuge in their cabins, especially the ladies, whose sobs and frightened screams seemed to increase the horror of the terrible shipwreck to which we were apparently condemned. " Why do they not fire the guns to break down that pillar of water ? " asked the clergyman of a sailor. m 'liiK'i fi im Bi HIHi'iliil. Ijm , - ><. ''yillf 1 jA ^ 8 - ^ 'J'^jMJlli VhMjH kU R#. .'' ''■■'iLik ' mI '^ ^^fct. ■-. '^i'^M' 1 1^1 ^ jm'^mmM 'liUli ^ Wl i3m f^H ^ ^ ^^'''.fi^«^ JH h InM I ^ ■HBl'iiSII ^H H ^ IfMfi^^H BH > maf Ills''' lilt/ ' ^^Bd W/ A M a: r- 'BI f^2^'"''" W ^ • K ! W*^' ^ WMffl '. K <^'' ^M^B^I Ml ''^^K yiFj^HH IHI o iP' ' )A'}iuBHP Kj^H u l^^^l ■"'M/Ml^mMk WmoA ^H WK ■■'4, H^g (d m. v^' Hi ^ H^ ^ ^^^^^wj|i IIH ;::) ^T^^^N^B^mJlkl Id^Dv >-^ JQ^MKMyWM, HK o «IitBk'"tt RHh '^ j^jKNH|b>vw H^n ^^Sk^ m ^ liJ^THJ^M^ ^^^ H ll|-|i Ml iil,i'iii||i III A WATERSPOUT AT SEA. 119 "Our guns are good enough for Hignals, but they have no calibre to bo of any use in this ease," replied the latter. " Why don't we tack about? " " What would be the good of that ? The waterspout would go as far in a minute as we could go in an hour." " But if it reaches us we arc lost ! " "Yes, unless God comes to our help," replied the sailor in a serious tone. The clergyman turned pale, but repeated a psalm in a steady voice. Almost at the same moment we were lashed in the face, and almost blinded by a body of water which rose at a few cables' length from the Magdalena. The thin, barely formed column of water dashed against the steamer's poop, broke away part of the bulwarks, tumbled us over each other, and then continued its furious course. There were now two waterspouts in view. The sun hid itself; the sea and the sky were the colour of steel. We were in semi-darkness, deafened by the roar of the wind and the dashing of the billows. Suddenly the two funnels separated: one sank down, whilst the other seemed to rise into the clouds. For two minutes, which seemed to us all like a century, we were plunged in black darkness and drenched by a deluge of water. For my part, I thought my last hour had come; I seemed to feel the steamer sinking into the sea, and the waves closing over us. Light came back gradually, revealing our piteous condition as we stood on deck — livid, drenched, dishevelled, and awe-struck. "The danger is over," said the captain; "but, by Heaven, it was a narrow escape ! Steer for the schooner," added he, addressing his lieutenant ; '* I heard sounds of cracking which make me think some harm has happened to her." Our wheels were once again in motion, and we soon saw the little ship ; she had lost her masts, and her deck was battered in. Fortunately, the five men composing her crew were safe and sound. Our captain offered to tow the schooner as far as St. Thomas ; but a small steamer which had just left port speedily came up to offer her services. Wo continued our route, and an hour later were sailing on a sea as calm and smooth as a 120 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD. mirror, reflecting the azure of the cloudless nky. Had it not "been for the numerous damages of which the Magdalena every- where bore traces, the temblc danger we had just escaped would have seemed like a horrible nightmare. "You are satisfied now, I hope," said I to the clergyman, who was imbibing his third glass of orange water. "More than that," replied he. "I am quite cured of my fancy for seeing a waterspout at sea. Has my hair turned white ? " said he, taking off his hat and showing me his head. " No," said I, smiling ; " your hair is as brown as ever." " Then it will never turn grey. Man feels very small before such workings of the Almighty." " You are right," 1 replied ; " but I confess I did not want to be brought so near a waterspout to be made conscious of my nothingness." During the remaining week of our voyage, Mr. Smith slept with one eye open. The sight of a small island, the masts of a ship, or a sperm-whale, would make him turn jiale and uneasy ; everything seemed to him to foreshadow waterspouts and storms. When once at Havannah he recovered his spirits, but he assured me that he would return to New York by anj'^ other way than St. Thomas. He had seen a waterspout, and now sincerely hoped never to see another. CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAYANNAH. CIIAPTER I. Havantiah — Preliminary formulas — A good dinuer — In search of a lodging — A restless night. The Island of Cuba, called The Queen of the Antilles sinco St. Domingo freed herself from French rule, is almost three hundred leagues in length, and scarcely forty in breadth. It is, with Porto liica, the last strip of the immense empire possessed by the Spanish in the New AVorld; and even this magnificent jewel is ready to detach itself from the crown .so long without a rival. I cannot think without regret of this beautiful island, which I saw so peaceful and prosperous, now devastated by civil war, the most tc rible of all scourges — blood flowing in the plains and valleys, in the forests, whoso rich vegetation I admired so much ; the feet of horses, the wheels of cannon, disturbing the clear brooks where I have so often quenched my thirst. The first time I visited the Island of Cuba, it had just been devastated by one of those terrible hurricanes which, from time to time, sweep over the Antilles and threaten to submerge them in the waters of the Atlantic. But what are these disasters compared to those caused by man ? What, for instance, does a broken tree signify — damage which time will rejDair — compared with the ruin of the Tuilleries and the Hotel de Ville? And then, however cruel 122 MY H MIILKS IN THE NEW WO It LB. and implacable the rebel Creoles Bhowed themselves, they had at least an honourable end in view — the attainment of liberty. But let us leave this nielancholj'^ subject, and enter tho famous harbour of Havannah — a spectacle which greatly surprises Europeans who see it for the first time. Tho harbour of the capital of Cuba is only attainable by passing under the line of fire of a fort, built on a rock, called Moor's Fort. Vessels glide between two high, bare, desolate clift's, and then, by a sharp turn to tho left, come in view of the town embosomed in a hollow. With the exception of the fort, boldly placed on a pile of barren rocks, there is nothing at first to strike the traveller's attention particularly. Two or three palm-trees with their tall, slender stems astonish European travellers ; but one can scarcely believe one's self in tho country so far-famed for good cigars, or in the general entrepot of Spanish commerce, with her ancient colonies. There is little or no verdure; the muddy water is covered with thousands of white sea-birds. The sky is of a pale blue, and a kind of vapour hovers over the town, of which one can only get a glimpse. Strong sea odours impregnate tho air. One feels saddened by tho dismal, severe aspect of tho landscape. The atmosphere is almost burning. One thinks of yellow fever, which makes so many victims hero. Tho cruel malady has well chosen its place of resort. The American steamer in which I had made tho voyage had hardly cast anchor, when we were surrounded by numerous small boats. Nevertheless, not one of the people in them dared set foot on our vessel. They were obliged to wait for the govern- ment and police boats, which appeared sailing side by side. I had nothing to show the government officers. As for the police, they granted me permission to go about the town for forty-eight hours. If it pleased me to stay beyond this time in the capital of the pearl of the Antilles, I should be obliged to apply to two officials who could prolong my leave. If the fulfilment of this formula were neglected, the police, horse or foot soldiers, had the right to take me by the collar and put mo on board any of CHRISTMAS BAY AT IIAVANNATL 123 the ships lying at anchor in tho harbour, whother or no it was tlie one I had the intention of emljarking in. What was tho reason of these strict precautions ? Was I so formidable, tliat they thought my presence capable of turning tlie town upside down? or had I such a suspicious appearance, that the police thought it prudent to warn me that tliey had an eye upon me ? Nothing of the kind. I was only submitting to tho letter of some old regulations which for centuries have closed the Spanish colonies against strangers. Thanks to friends at court, Humboldt was one of the first to obtain permission to visit Mexico and Peru, in 1803. One can understand tho success of the stories and descriptions of tho learned German. He had the good fortune to ajipear as though he had dis- covered tho countries of which ho sjioke, and which stern laws had kept closed more hermetically than any town of China. After I had formally promised not to get intoxicated, to avoid all scandal, not to preach liberty to the slaves, and to respect tho rights of the crown of Spain, they gave me a little square of yellow paper. I liailed a boat, whose proprietor was quite willing to take me in on tho presentation of my passport ; and, ten minutes later, I landed on a quay, built on piles — a construction as ugly as it was primitive. It was on the 24th of December, 1863, Christmas Eve, that I set foot, for the first time, on the soil of the town founded, in 1511, by Diego Velasquez. As soon as I entered the narrow, bad-smelling, ill-kept streets, I was almost stifled by a sickening odour, something like the emanations from dried codfish, olive oil, heavy Cata- logna wine, and I do not know what else, which make a Spaniard's mouth water, and sicken a Frenchman. I thought that the houses had a holiday aspect ; and I learnt that for a week the inhabitants of Puerto-Principe, Santiago, Fermando de Jagua, Nuevitas, Santa Maria, and Matauzas, had made the metropolis their resort, and that to find a room at an hotel was a difficult matter. I had the address of a French hotel given me, and at once made my way thither. 124 MY RAMJiLKS IN THE NEW WORLD. The hotel, nituated in the modem |)i'onienatle of Tacon, was clean and lively. Whilst waiting for dinner, I stood at the door ; and about five o'clock, when the sun was disap- pearing behind Punta Fort, I saw all the fashionable world pass before me. Now the fashionable world of llavannah — I speak from what I saw — exactly resembles that of London or Paris. The same coats for the men, the same style of dress for the women ; head- dresses, hats, canes, boots, eye-glasses, all come from Paris. Unfortunately, the public watering-cart is an unknown luxury in this dusty Cuban city. It was the month of December, and the heat was as great as in July with us ; dust and perspiration mingling on the faces of the fair sex, ol)liged them to make a speedy retreat. One of the peculiarities of Havannah is the volanta — a kind of cab drawn by two mules, the wheels of which, before and behind, are ornamented with silver, and are of the same height as the hood of the vehicle. On one of the mules sits a negro, smartly dressed as a postillion, with gold lace, and prouder than Artaban of his grand attire. Two or three young women, with flowers in their hair, take their places in the carriage; the postillion cracks his whip, and away they go, jolting over the uneven pavement of the town. After having been a dozen times round the promenade, the strange equipage brings the indolent Creoles back to their houses. It is only in this way, or when going to the theatre, that the fair sex of Havannah is visible. The rare beauties that one runs against in the streets, are only small tradespeople or servants. Enlivened by watching this marvellous promenade, after having conscientiously remarked that there was no lack of beauty among the women, and that large, dark, exj^ressive eyes are as common in Havannah as Mexico, I determined to have my dinner. My countryman knew how to manage things well, and my dinner, frugal enough, only cost me about two pounds. For this I had neither truffles, blackbirds, nor a plump ortolan ; not even a pheasant. Some chicken, a bottle of claret, a salad, which I was told was something excellent, was all that I got for emu HTM AS DAY AT llAVANNAH. 125 my money. At dessert, they offered mo strawborries. Straw- berries in tlio month of December ! It was a tempting dish, and I eagerly accepted it. In about five minutes they triumph- antly brought mo some strawberries preserved in syrup. Judge of my deception ! These strawberries, which came from Europe, added another ten shillings to my bill ; and never, I think, did I pay more for my dinner than on that day. Living is expensive in all tropical countries ; but my country- man looked sharp after his own interests, and did not treat mo altogether as a friend. I thought it useless to exclaim against the exorbitant price of the chicken and salad, and contented myself with changing my (quarters. Four years later I was again in llavannah, and allowed myself to be drawn into tho coijuettish French hotel. It cost mo three pounds this time. I suppose ono can hardly dine there now under live pounds; decidedly a rather exijonsive repast. Lato in tho evening I went to the principal square, whero tho governor's palace is situated, and entered one of the famous restaurants, which are tho luxuries of llavannah. There is not a sweet nor a refreshing drink that these skilful natives do not know how to prepare ; their restaurants surpass anything of tho kind to be found in Paris or London, and tho coffee, ices, and liqueurs are of the best quality. But I ought to say something about Christmas Day ; and if I do not do so at once, I shall loso myself — as I am rather in the habit of doing — in details, which may be of no interest to any ono except myself. I had dined, but did not feel any inclination to spend the night in the open air, and I had convinced myself, by investiga- tion, that all the hotels, even the small inns, were crowded. Whilst I was lingering over a delicious ice-cream, and reflecting how I was to get out of my difficulty, some one touched me on the shoulder, and I found myself face to face with a Mexican gentleman of my acquaintance. We directly began a tete-a- tete, talking of Vera-Cruz, Puebla, and Mexico. I told my friend of my unsuccessful attempts to find a lodging, and of my unwillingness to return to tho steamer, which was taking in her supply of coal. Ho offered to have 9, bed made up for mo 126 MY li AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD. in his own apartments, and wo set out for them together. An hour later, a sofa was arranged for me, and I took possession of a small sitting-room on the ground floor, with windows looking out into the street. About midnight, feeling grateful to Providence, I had fallen asleep, when I was suddenly aroused with a start. All the bells in the town began to ring at once. They were silent at last ; but a distant rumbling sound still ke)it mo awake. It was like the noise of an infuriated crowd. All the dogs in the neighbourhood began to bark. The noise came nearer ; there was no longer any doubt but that it was a wild, disorderly, noisy rabble. They yelled and screamed in a most unearthly manner. I ojiened one of the windows ; and by the light of torches, carried by frightful- looking vixens, I saw a disorderly band of negroes and negresses, running, quarrelling, and making a din with tin kettles, in lieu of tambourines. Never had I heard such a frightful uproar. What was the meaning of it? Had the slaves revolted? Several hundred individuals had passed before mo, and in countries where slavery reigns, they would hardly allow the African race to make such an uproar at such an unseasonable hour. The barking of the dogs died away after a while, and gradually all was silent again, and I could only hear faint and far-oif sounds. I had looked up and down the street, and was surprised at seeing no window opened; there was not even a sound in the house where T was lodging. But the noise of revelry again drew near, and another band of negroes, running in the same direction as the others, passed down tho street, making more noise if possible, lieports of fire-arms were heard in the distance, and put an end to my doubts — the negroes hud revolted. I opened my door, which led into a passage, to make some inquiries as to the meaning of the riot, when a fine mastiff, which had sniffed at me the evening before with a good deal of curiosity, now bounded forwards, and I had only just time to shut my door again, and save myself from his rough embrace. The animal growled, scratched at tho door, and whined ; perhaps he «^'d not want to do me any harm, and there was CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAII. 127 only a iniKUiulerstanding Let ween us. Nevertheless, I thought it prudent not to open the door ; and so, there I was a i)ri8oner. All was once more silent. A world of ideas filled my brain. The garrison was numerous ; hut there were twenty -live thou- sand slaves, and as many mulattos in the town ; and the white people, to which party I had the honour of belonging, seemed to me to be in a rather critical position. I lay down again, imagin- ing that the governor's palace was being pulled down ; but soon fatigue overcame my fears, and I fell asleep. A saucepan, sud- denly rattled against the iron bars of my window, made mo spring up with a jump. I heard voices and laughter. A woman was striking a tin kettle, and ten negroes were dancing round her, ■whilst the one who was making use of the bars of my window, tried to rattle them in time, as though he were playing on a guitar. " Holloa there ! " cried I to the musician ; " what on earth is the meaning of this uproar ? " He slunk off, rather amazed, and turning up the whites of his large eyes, answered triumphantly — " Me free ! " Although a sworn enemy to slavery, I felt a shudder run through me at this reply. How many lives had not this liberty already cost, and how many more might still fall victims to the treacherous slaves of Havannah ! "Has much harm been done?" I ventured to ask the musician, who was rattling on my window-bars with renewed energy. His eyes opened wide, and, instead of answering, ho sang a song, the words of which were quite incomprehensible to me. " Where is the governor ? " I again asked. " He asleep." Asleep ! That is to say, dead ; undoubtedly massacred in his sleep. I went back to my sofa. What could be the reason of this strange riot, and how was it the soldiers of the garrison had made so little resistance? There were se\eral men-of-war lying at anchor ; Moor's Fort, and the fort of the Peak, containetl a largo body of troups. Were they waiting for daylight to fire on the 128 MY Pi AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. town ? But no ; the rebels must have made themselves masters of these places first of all. What a fearful catastrophe ! Towards four o'clock, the noise having almost ceased, I again yielded to fatigue, and fell into a troubled sleep, dreaming of the black Haitien heroes, Dessalines, and Toussaint-Louverture. When I awoke, it was broad daylight. I ran to the window and saw groups of negroes everywhere ; not one white man among them. I drew back again, and mournfully proceeded with my toilet ; then I cautiously opened the door — the mastiff had been chained uj)— and a little ncgress carrying a tray cried out to me — " Make hasto, sir : they are at breakfast." I went towards the end of the corridor, wliicli, ornamented with plants, served as a dining-room. Four ladies, a priest, and my Mexican friend were quietly breakfasting together, waited on by a fat negro, who at once attended to me. " Have you been able to sleep ? " my friend asked me. " A little towards daybreak, I confess it to my shame. But tell me quickly, what is the cause of this ri(jt ? " " The slaves are free. Did you not know it ? " The Mexican, an enthusiastic abolitionist, and from his bronzed skin partly allied to the conquerors, told mo this news in a careless tone. "What have wo to fear?" I asked. •' Nothing. However, it will be prudent not to show j'ourself much in the ecreets, in order to avoid insults, for brandy loosens the tongue." " Are there many people killed ? " "Three at present; there will be more to-morrow. Last year there were eight." " What ! was there an attempt at rebellion last year?" They all stared at mo with such surprise, and I asked my question with such manifest astonishment, that it was clear there was a misunderstanding between us. Thus, getting an explanation, I learat that in observance of an ancient custom, the slaves of ITavannah have one day in the year of perfect liberty, and that holiday is Christmas Day, CHRISTMAS BAY AT HAVANNAH. 129 Notwithstanding the warnings I had of the imprudence of venturing into the streets, especially of mingling with the slaves, nothing could keep me from trying to get a glimpse of their curious proceedings. They predicted a thousand accidents which would happen to me ; I should be obliged to take thumps and knocks without complaining, or having the right to revenge myself. I was determined to run all risks, and directly after breakfast I set out, following a troup of negrdes, who, dressed in their masters' cast-off clothes, were dancing and singing as they went along. j CHAPTER II. Fraternity — Sons and daughters of kings — Abuse of saffron —A negro ball. It was a splendid day, the heat almost unbearable, and one had to think twice to believe that it was the month of December. All the large warehouses and shops were closed, with the exception of the wine-merchants, cigar shops, and especially the spirit stores, which seemed to be doing an active business. Negroes, mulattos, and quadroons, dressed in their finest clothes, were strutting about the streets and noisily applauding the masqueraders. Having reached a large open square, my party suddenly formed a ring, in which I was enclosed. I was jostled, pushed about, and shaken, but I took it all good-naturedly. A tall negro, dressed in very wide pantaloons, and a coat too small for him, all at once began a dance, which, with its fantastic steps, grimaces, extraordinary leaps, and contortions, I cannot protend to describe. The dancer sang an African song, whilst some of his companions joined in the chorus. Never did a more discordant, guttural, disagreeable hubbub torture human ears ; unfortunately, mine wore destined to hear a good deal of the same thing. 130 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. They stared and pointed at me. I was an intruder. Two young men of a remarkably black skin, more shiny than the best polished leather, came skipping up to me. They were armed with formidable-looking clubs, and began brandishing them in a most uncomfortable manner over my head. The skill of the two cudgel players was indisputable, but they came so close to me that I began to feel uneasy. I thought that perhaps these fine black fellows, whilst apparently only playing, might be tempted to caress Etiropean shoulders with their cudgels, and taking advantage of my good nature, might pay off some of the blows they had received from the white people. As I thought it prudent to beat a retreat, I wished to do so as honourably as possible, and I offered the cudgel players some refreshment. My politeness was accepted without the slightest hesitation, and the clubs, ceasing their evolution.^ round my head, came down roughly but pacifically to the ground. Here was I now walking arm in arm towards a spirit store with two wretched slaves, and followed by the band whom I had at first mingled with. At Havannah as well as New Orleans, to associate with a negro is at once to shut all doors of polite society against one. I had perhaps chosen my new acquaintances rather thought- lessly ; but I could never accustom myself to despise coloured men, and I could mention more than one who, in intelligence, morality, and goodnesc^, is far superior to many white men. I had only to pass through Havannah, so it mattered little compromising myself with the race of Ham, and I bravely entered the spirit store. It was kept by a Catalonian. who, seeing my followers, thought at first that I was a victim of the masqueraders, and ordered them to leave me alone. I hastened to inform him that they were my friends, and that I had brought them there. " Take care," said he to me ; " these familiarities may lead you into serious trouble." " Do you think these poor creatures are capable of ill-treat- mg me .'' X > X < H X o w CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. 131 *' They will not scruple to take advantage of any oppor- tunities you may afford them. And that is not all. The police are on the watch, without appearing to be so ; they may make you account to-morrow for the scandals which you have caused, and you will be punished for having exposed yourself to the outrages of the coloured people." I remembered the oaths which I had taken in exchange for my passport, and as my proceedings were not in contradiction to any of my promises, I begged the Catalonian to have my guests attended to. The latter were unanimous in asking for brandy, the only refreshing drink they cared for ; but my two guests multiplied in some miraculous way, and I had a con- siderable amount to pay the wine-shop keeper. In exchange for my hospitality, I received the most intimate confidences ; the women especially were open-hearted. I thought I was condescending, and yet here 1 was surrounded by noble lords, unfortunate princesses, the sons and daughters of kings. The queens, of the number of three, were less resigned than the men at the loss of their thrones ; and I only succeeded in drying their tears by redoubling their refreshment. All that these poor creatures told me in their broken language might be true. It was beyond doubt that they had been brutally torn from their cabins, from their native land, and their friends, and had been embarked by force, and carried to Cuba, the name of which they had never even heard, there to be sold as vile cattle. They comforted themselves with the hope of some day returning to their homes, a consoling illusion which I was careful not to dissipate. The majority of my new friends were negroes bom in Havannah. They also dreamed of liberty, but they did not complain of their masters, and the invisible chain which bound them to a white man and a dwelling did not seem to weigh very heavily upon them. At the invitation of the shopkeeper, who told me that it would bo unwise to go on walking under the burning sun, I rested in his shop; and my companions, resuming their fantastic dances, continued their way. My host Bold grocery and woollen goods, as well as wine 132 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WO BID. and spirits ; and I watched the customers, from the slave who had become an important housekeeper, down to the little negro girl. These were the aristocratic negroes, who looked down upon the masquerading troops in the streets. From time to time a coquettish mulatto would come into the shop, who, although herself a slave, spoke of the negroes with proud disdain, and ranked herself undoubtedly with the white people. Workmen, tradespeople, masons, and carpenters, came one after another and sat down in the shop. They belonged to a master, who for a certain sum of money allowed them to follow their own occupations, and being skilful workmen, they often succeed in getting a ransom. I spent nearly three hours here looking on, listening and convincing myself of the sad truth, that however distressing the material condition of the slaves may be, it is a thousand times better than that of workmen in our large cities. But the subjects of slavery and pauperism are far too serious to be treated lightly. I will therefore continue my walk. Wherever I went through the town, I encountered the same noisy masquerades. I came unexpectedly upon a fair, and the grand display of paintings which struck my eye told me that France had not the exclusive monopoly of bepri^fd women, skeleton men, and learned hares, still less of ^iercules and somnambulists. I entered one of the largest booths, where young acrobats were executing their performances with marvellous agility. Five of them, perched on balls, undertook a most amusing race, performing a series of perilous jumps ; in fact, monkeys could not have done it better. I noticed that, with very few exceptions, all the shops in the fair were under the patronage of Maria de Lao, who must have been a celebrity, for each of the establishments declared them- selves her true and only successor. I questioned successively a negro, a mulatto, a Creole, a quadroon, and finally a European about this remarkable divinity, and each time they laughed in my face, thinking that I was jesting. Maria de Lao is so well known in Havannah, that I could not succeed in Ending out who she was. CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAH. 133 I determined to consult a somnambulist, and I asked the young person who went to sleep for my benefit, to give me some information about the celebrated Maria, whose portrait, full length and vignette, was everywhere to be seen. My question awakened the somnambulist as though I had fired a pistol close to her ear ; that is to say, she started up. They looked at me suspiciously, refused my money, and I even think the show- man mildly swore at me. An inquisitive person in Paris or London, who asked a passer-by for the history of Punch and Judy, would most likely meet with the same success as I did. About five o'clock, tired of seeing the negroes romping about in their grotesque clothing, of swallowing dust, and being deafened by the screeching and noise, I went in search of an Havannah restaurant. I wanted to taste the cookery of Cuba in all its purity. Th'' dining-room which I entered was neither luxuriously nor meanly furnished, neither clean nor dirty ; and the persons whom I saw round the tables looked like small tradespeople or merchants' clerks. They gave me a bill of fare, which I studied attentively, and on which, among ordinary dishus, figured several which I did not know. I began by asking for a soup, which appeared to me to be a queer combination of peas, tomatoes, rice, and pumpkins, with very little broth. This mixture, if well pounded, would have been very good, had the cook been less prodigal with the saffron. After this they brought me vegetable-marrows, dressed with cayenne pepper, which was enough to set one's mouth on fire. I managed to demolish it, thanks to the ten years' long and painful apprenticeship I had gone through in the Spanish colonies. These marrows, moderately spiced, would be very much appre- ciated in Europe, but the saffron might well be dispensed with. A slice of fillet of beef, garnished with rancid bacon, an imitation of the French fricandeau, was brought to me. I allowed myself to be influenced in partaking of this dish. Seeing me steadily consulting the bill of fare, my opposite neighbour said to me — " Take some fillet ; it is very good." 134 MY a AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD. And I asked for some fillet. I do not deny that rancid bacon may be an excellent thing, but I never eat it without being absolutely forced to do so. That which was brought to me was so far gone, that I was obliged to draw myself up to prevent making a grimace when swallowing it. Not wishing to look like a simpleton before the waiter, nor to tacitly declare that my obliging neighbour had detestable taste, by sending back my slice of meat untouched, I ordered a hot sauce, which I thought might neutralize the distasteful qualities of the bacon ; but this only added fire to my already burning mouth and throat. Having sufficiently hacked my slice of beef for the sake of aj)j)earance8, I gave up all further attempts at swallowing it, and contented myself with a wing of chicken. I thought I was safe in ordering this simple course. Alas ! the chicken was placed on a dish of rice, cooked, I firmly believe, in a saffron- box. I dared not ask for a salad ; the Cubans would be sure to flavour it with saffron oil. I set out in search of a cafe, and the comforting beverage soon made me forget the torture I had suffered at dinner. At dusk I went towards the promenade, which I found deserted, so I turned hap-hazard into ill-lighted streets crowded with negroes. All trace of pavement had disappeared, heaps of refuse barred my way, and the houses were low, dirty, and squalid-looking. I heard singing in the distance, mingling with the noise of a guitar and drum, and I soon came out into a street where a series of public balls were taking place. I was the only European anywhere visible. Elbowing my way and being jostled about, I gradually succeeded in reaching a low room, dimly lighted by two smoky lamps. A young negress was performing an epileptic dance with frenzied gesticulations. Five or six other negroes, seized ^vith the same mad fit, were noisily shaking leathern bags filled Avith shells and pieces of broken bottles, whilst another was beating a tambourine without any regard to time. The dancing- t,irl, at last exhausted and foaming at the mouth, fell fainting on the ground. They rolled her in a blanket and carried her uway, whilst one of her companions took her place, and whirled CHRISTMAS DAY AT HAVANNAII. 135 about in the same mad fashion. Suddenly, without any warning, I was gently seized, lifted up, and carried out of this dreadful den. I had unduly entered a private party. I was conscious of my offence, and at once went off, without offering the slightest resistance. The miserable hole I had just been excluded from, was one of the lowest dancing-rooms; and I soon came to another, larger, better lighted, and filled with better-dressed people. Two negroes, armed with cudgels, and wearing immense white neck- ties, stool like black marble caryatides at the door of the establishment. Emboldened by the ceremonial neckties, I drew near; but the two terrible clubs barred my passage. I spoke to the two Cerberuses, who only showed theii white teeth, and gave me a fine example of incorruptibility by pocketing the money I offered them. Whilst they were explaining to me in remarkable Spanish, and with perfect Castillian courtesy, that it was a private party, and that no white man, even though he were their friend, as I pretended to be, was allowed to interfere with them, I saw about a dozen negroes, and as many negresses, dancing, twirling, and hopping to the sound ©f music even more discordant and primitive than the first. Having exhausted my arguments, and seeing that I was looking on at the spectacle which I had no right to do, the two negroes began to brandish their clubs over my head, which dangerous familiarity I had already experienced in the morning. I retired, thinking it unwise to risk further parley with these black door- keepers, and I had the consolation of seeing them refuse admittance to a mulatto who they thought was not well enough dressed. Are there, then, social distinctions among slaves? Man is bom a despot. I am obstinate, and I succeeded in squeezing among a crowd through the door of another mixed establishment. The hambula were performing their escapades, whilst at the same time a very well-executed square dance was going on ; the different music made a frightful discord, which did not seem to disturb the dancers in the least. Sometimes the whole room joined in the chorus of a song in honour of Maria de Lao. I had found 136 MT a AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD. such a comfortable place in a dark corner, that I ventured to sit down, and was innocently enjoying the forbidden fruit, when I saw two soldiers, led by a mulatto, making their way up to mo. The soldiers were no mere lookers on, for they wore their muskets, the butt-ends of which came down sharply at my feet. "You have no business here," said one of them to me; " follow us, if you please." The music had ceased, the dancers were interrupted, and every one was staring at us. I got up at once. " Am I committing any infraction of the laws of the country ? " I asked. " Yes," replied the soldier ; " and the people by whom we are surrounded, and with whom you are interfering, have the right to turn you out as roughly as they like." " I am a stranger, eenor, and I did not know I was doing any harm." In the street I found a police-sergeant, who asked for my name ; instead of which, I showed him my passport. " What mad spirit could have possessed you to go into such a wa^p s nest ? " said the under-ofificer to me. " People of your class do not usually come into these quarters, where you are not safe even in daylight." I explained as well as I could, that I liked to see everything in the countries I visited, high as well as low life. " You may thank God that you are still alive," said the sergeant to me ; ' and remember that he who goes in search of wool often gets shorn. "Where do you want us to take you ? " " It is not worth while troubling you, sir ; I am going back on board the steamer in which I came here, and which leaves to-morrow." At a sign from their principal, five or six soldiers surrounded me, obliging me to walk between them. The sergeant gave me no more answers to my questions, and even imposed silence on me. I was a prisoner, but, strong in my innocence, was preparing the explanation of my actions, to give the officer before whom they might take me. We went through the town, more deserted and silent as we CHRISTMAS DAY AT II AV AN NAIL 137 approached the aristocratic parts, replying to the qui vive of the sentinels whom we met. On reaching the harbour, a boatman was hailed, and received an order to take me to the ship to which I belonged. The sergeant bowed politely to me, wished me adieu, and, turning back with his men, was soon out of sight, whilst I was carried back to the Solent. I stood gazing for half an hour on the sleeping town, from which rose a subdued murmur of sounds. The palm trees stood out clear against the star-lit sky, and now and then the sound of a guitar, wafted over the water, struck my ear. The hour, announced by the deep-toned bells of the clock tower, was hailed by the sentinels on the forts with a garde a vovs, whicli, repeated from distance to distance, made one think of customs long gone by. In short, Havannah, with its commerce, pleasures, activity, luxury, and vices, would be a most agreeable town were it not for the terrible yellow fever which is constantly throwing a veil of mourning over the whole island. The following day, when I went up on deck, wo were out of the channel, and the town was already invisible. Black vultures, of a smaller species than those of Mexico, were hovering over the bay, and the cannons of fort del Mora shone in the sun- light. On a promontory to the right, might be seen a mansion shaded by palm trees, a magnificent building, which was soon to be destroyed by a formidable hurricane. All the mo-r-ning we were continually passing Spanish, American, and English vessels, on their way to Havannah. By breakfast time, the island was lost in a mist, and my adventures of che preceding day seemed to me like a dream. FROM hayan:n'ah to :^ew oelea:n^s. CHAPTEE I. Departure from Havannah — The slavery questiou — The Gulf Stream — The Mississippi — A kidnapping business. Although Havannah is but a commercial town, with narrow, winding, and dirty streets, the tourist, after a month's sojourn here, does not leave without regret. By what secret ties the capital of Culwi attaches itself thus to the hearts of its visitors, is a question I cannot pretend to answer. I must confess, however, that it wa» not without a real feeling of regret that, ou the 10th of April, 1H<» — , leaving th«' Pearl of the AntilleM for the Heconre Vfn\f;, tlit? nc^rew, twliug th<) •llfliMit ^1114^ of tim \my, diNturU^ Um- \wm%i of thMMMMb vi , wImmj Wift, whitiiih. tfiMi^MWit SmAvim mada MMdl yauks o' funis imtanit, a kind of sia-wtjed, food which sailors do nut despise. A (]iiart<;r of un iiuur later the captain ^VkXu tho urd«r tu liuavu tu. Wu were iu the uiiddiu uf tha curr«nt. The trunk of t* jmlm in^i wiui swept rapidly \mmi us. Tb* tPB^ksal treu wimld uuml \i\ni\y \m »tniiith'd on the c I tm m f*mk mtmiij»§m Idtptm^ in Ahu * «!««« Hlw* mtm mirmi4f^i im Um ismtt uf Itrnthad. TImhk' «-4i tint! tiii^ muh<\ ^\i(*mtM^ t^ Wm iMmn» wm ImmmM >" ^l> "i in 1717 t fumn hwm him Ut Uikmi fiiftii— ii^. tlM^ «ii« wA kwm htm m Um.\f xhn witriA wmAi MMig to ^mm iJt» miI ■•jr • whm i FRGM BAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 143 " All the shores we can see, appear to me very barren," " They are, being marshy and covered with shifting islands ; for the Mississippi diverges very much from its course before falling into the sea." " Is that another of its superior qualities ? " " Not for sailors, at any rate ; they often mistake l^s course, to the great damage of their ships. You are undoubtedly aware that until 1832, the Mississippi was thought to take its rise in Lake Cass ; in reality, it rises in Itacca Lake, as I proved myself ten years ago. The majestic sheet of water which you see here swollen by affluents, such as the Missouri, the Arkansas, the Ohio, the Red River, and the Illinois — I mention the most important — is twenty feet wide where it issues from Lake Itacca." We were constantly passing ships of all nations, with tlieir flags floating fron^ tlie masts, making for the ojH)n sea, there to disperse in a hundred diff«;rent directions. When night came wo were still about fifty miies from New Orleans, and our (;aptuin pacei|. fltanmtion ('mninA from th<* pii»»i'n^n*rii wUim iht'V )umM th« Mneiu^'fhmtH* linwiHind. ind kn* w th»t Umy wtt* <<*i)d«'friru^l to b« Mltttifmary until th> m vniiimuum» wmm \mm wmplimiil Tkm »<« HUM « : i,f{0itf^U llMf (iifliAiiw • |>|iiifiwiii»jii «Mdb wmm^mmm hm HaHMng U all i/ m* ttvtdl, km mfimmA m huuHm «i Ua4mtm mmi 144 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. water. Tlie air was full of ominous sounds ; angry gusts of wind mingled with thS continuous surf of the waves. Flashes of lightning almost blinderJ us, and at short intervals the majestic voice of the thunder drowned all other sounds. When I entered the grand saloon, I was dazzled by the brilliant lights ; the passengers were playing, talking, working, and reading. The contrast between this peaceful scene and the fury of the elements outside, was singular enough. Towards midnight I again ventured on deck. The thunder was rumbling in the distance, the wind had sunk, but it was Btill raining heavily. I went back to my cabin, and did not get to sleep before two o'clock. I awoke with a start. " Get up, get up, you lazy fellow," cried the general, cheerily ; " in an hotir we shall be in sight of the capital of Louisiana." I rubbed ray eyes. The sun was gilding the glass of my small port-hole. "Now then," crieiii l!tiio|M hii int\*m, wl»ir«- tlj< \»<*>i iiianti'rn fu'd f iM'fiM»«dv< i. ,t» tiM n,. If ■. 'if iri(|tiiai' |pwipirt|i:. iiiMoit ttt wnraiila. wh<>, if iIm \,-tmt tkm% '%» tmm ihat XJH'y tUt wti lili«,»t mitm U whiUt \m fMMMMitlf tiitnka tbftt it m tlm whk* ^ t,. |«a>'it t^at nuMf ^im Mm ttb* rig,Ui Uj (mmmmmd, ^mm, m UMm Uum an kum^fwt iWi Iw tti I iiiMiirmi «€ • ^mk4„ wA» . , , , Wm mm^ ttf tlMi i W9 will teAt atttNit it afpMii a4 wf hmm» 4v«ar m hattlm «f i §mmd ^ imk m Htm ■i a nwrr ak«iaii|r ^mmimi «iffe 4tt. I iMii mmmlj ^ ^akm mm hmak at «^ gpni «% f i»ai|r FROM IIAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 145 "When do you mean to have your luggage brought up?'' said he. " Have you forgotten that you are to be my guest for a week, and that we n^ust be on the way to Messangere in an hour's time ? " I exclaimed against this. I could not pass New Orleans before, as it were, setting foot there. I had, besides, several things to buy, and four letters to leave at different houses, "That is not of the least consequence to me," replied the general, with undisturbed tranquillity. " You can make your puj ohases next week ; and as for your letters, a servant will take theiii with a note from you which you will date from Messangere ; for you will sleep there tonight, as true as my name is Dumont." "'' Tint " 'Silence in the ranks! I will show you an hotel where you can leave your heavier luggage. In an hour's time — I am impatient to see my daughter, and it is your duty to do all you can to assist me — in an hour's time, then, I shall be at your hotel with u carriage, and at twelve o'clock precisely we shall bo at Mesrtiing^re. I have made up my mind for tliat." ** But once again . . . ." " Wluit irt the good of lueleHs observation ? It is all jxjrfcctly tind<'n»tttm>. Tb^Tc I wai« in we» • miracle of ('|..,1. iM-auty, MiiiM An»l»ella Ihimimt. and a well of i«i. !!( < , ].H ; but I think like tluM ^ofwaier, and lM«tng nnablo to nay anything httUir, I re|j«*at hiit wordu," *• For g>tir hat i»lo?u» ♦ " ntiid the liberal t^o mt'. MC'izing my liaiul jiMt hm 1 waM ^- ' ■ -, liow a^aia. **AitiM>tigh f know liotr j^wacMU y<>u hold v<.iir uiu»unm," iukldl hi', " jiMi iMiiiea tiiat i\u^' r. '>|»1« an- ii"f t'.'i< hjnir {!i< ir lu^a |o ftM »»y MSf* tllAfi till V tf tt;. ." **ik4 wmm l» mm ^am tkm vHhm, ilk^ ■^HfftHKi^^ii fi ■iiim.il! Ai^ ■■■ v^iflii em nwiiKlaBMMi paj ley. FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 147 I bit my lips. My host was right, as I convinced myself with a little attention. Accustomed as I was to the polite courtesy of the peasants of the old Spanish colonies, there was a natural excuse for my mistake. I was the first to laugh at my blunder, and I promised to be more careful in future to whom I raised my hat. The rich vegetation of Mexico was too vividly impressed on my mind for me to show as much surprise at the beauty of the surrounding country as my companion expected. The plants, bushes, and trees which I had seen growing in wild luxuriance were here trimmed, fenced in, and cultivated. But, as I have since convinced myself, one ought no more to judge of Louisiana from Now Orleans than of Mexico from the barren, sandy, desolate coast around Vera-Cnz. We skirted the border of a wood, and then turned into a cross road, seamed with deep ruts, hardly wide enough to allow our carriage to pass. After half an hour of rough jolting, our vehicle suddenly stopped short. " What has hap|)ened ? " asked the general of our coachman. " It is ini[K>Hsible to go «»n, sir." We alighted. A HUiall cart was lying acroKM tlu' rott»tw«'ii hin Imwia^ wtm r»{M$»iitig, iti ** AU, Thoiii.ti^ ' |'e, "To Im- angry with a clmnkiffn man, would be Ut lihow jronriM'If HM wetmeXium an he Im," replieil my c^iinpatiioii. " lluw many laiihiM will the unfiirtunat'- Thuniaii get?^ I jMikf'l, •• Hiw cMCitiftatitf will doubtbtw vtmt him d«*Hrly." " 'I'hiit di'fM'udM Oh hin g<'m;ral amdnr't. and hiN itimmU'v\ 'iir. howi'Vi-i. an I I) - ' f.i. f.,!.! y«m^ w<^ think. TiwHrt" ar^* law* in firalMl Cmmifff&mi ti« ->««« aiijiintlr trNit4«i liir a brtttal MHiv, mm irf^ipi ** f i la. i^ Atf ^m ^ ^ i^ ^^^^^^ ^y| M^k^^^k ki 11/ ,N/ ml ■^'^' .^^ it .^' C. ;:< .'i ^® •r: :r;^. ,wiijjrf)w ^ ^. FROM HAVANNAII TO NEW ORLEANS. 149 " No ; but they are free." " So be it, I suppose their liberty feeds them when they have no work to do, and takes care of them when they are ill, does it not ? But stay ; do not let us discuss this matter. Wo are looking at it from an opposite point of view, and have no chance of coming to an understanding. To you Eur >peans, the negro is a man ; in our eyes, he is only a child — a child whose intelli- gence will never develop, do what you may. If you can bring forward an exception, I shall answer you that it confirms tho rule, and we shall have gone as far into the matter on our arrival as when we set out." We had left the narrow road and were crossing an undulating common interspersed with clumps of mimosas. Before long houses bordered the roadside; and entering a fine avenue of plane trees, we drove up before tho door of an elegant house, built on a slight eminence, its windows commanding a good view of the suiTounding neighbourhood. Five or six negroes, and as many negrosses, surrounded our carriage. The general was not expected, and his servants kissed his hand with every d« monstration of delight, whilst three fine greyhounds jumped and gambolled around their master. " Where is Miss Arabella ? " asked the general eagerly. *' In the garden, sir," answered a taP negro, dressed in white clothes, as though to set off the ebony of his skin to greater advantage. "Come," said the general, "I am going to introduce you to the queen of my little kingdom." I followed ray guest, who, after having crossed a wide hall leading into the garden, went towards a clump of pome- granate trees. " Hold ! " cried he suddenly, in a stentorian voice. On one of the rocking-chairs so generally used in the United States, sat a young woman, her eyes sparkling with anger. Near her stood a beautiful girl, who seemed to be begging for mercy for a negress, who, kneeling down with hands clasped entreatingly, was threatened by the whip of a mulatto standing over her. 150 MY RAMBLES IN THE NEW WORLD. The girl sprang into the general's arms, whilst the young woman, rising slowly and majestically from her seat, said in a voice trembling with suppressed vexation — " Goodday, sir. Has your journey been pleasant ? " " What is the matter, Miss Angelina ? " asked the general, turning pale. "I was exercising the authority you allowed me, sir, and was about to jjunish one of your slaves." " What crime has she committed ? " " She has been away from the house for two days, and was only brought back by force this morning. Besides this, sir, I have more to speak to you about when I can see you privately." Miss Angelina bowed, as Juno might have done when she left Olympus, and went away. The general at last kissed his daughter, introduced me to her, and turning to the slave who was still kneeling, said to her kindly — " Get up, Manon. Is it true, that you wanted to run away, my girl ? " " Me afraid of Miss Angelina, massa," replied the negress. " Afraid of Miss Angelina ! Have you oflfended her, then ? '» "Miss sent me to town to fetch her beautiful dress. The rain came, it spoil the beautiful dress, and me was afraid to come back." " There is a misunderstanding in all this, father," said Miss Dumont. " Miss Angelina thought that Manon had let her dress get wet on purpose." I was greatly embarrassed during this scene. Not knowing where to go, and not wishing to appear to be listening, I studiously examined a fine shrub, until at last the general had pity on me. " We will settle thiu affair presently," said he. You, Manon, go back to your work; and you, my child," continued he, addressing his daughter, " go and see about the arrangements for our guest." " Did you build this house ? " I asked the general, who wa» fiilcnt and thoughtful. FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. l,'l " No. My father had it built .... I have lost my wager with you," continued he, in the rough tone he sometimes assumed ; " nevertheless, I can assure you that for the last fifty years not a slave — not one — has ever received corporeal punish- ment on my estate." " Had we not better let that subject drop ? " " No. We should then be obliged to talk with reserve, which for my part I am incapable of. I told you, did I not, that Miss Angelina is a New Yorkist , "Well, now, if we Southerners look on the negro as a child, our Northern neighbours regard him as nothing better than an animal." " Nevertheless, the Northerners are against slavery." " Only out of opposition to us ; not in the least from con- viction or humanity. There is not perhaps another part of the globe where the coloured man is more spumed and despised than at New York. This is a fact which you will see for yourself by-and-by, and which will explain Miss Angelina's conduct." "A spoilt dress is enough to explain feminine anger, general, and Miss Angelina undoubtedly belongs to the race of coquettish Eoman women, who at their toilet would run pins into their maids' shoulders, when the latter were not skilful." My host led me back to the house, and I was shown into a most comfortable rof)m, the windows of which looked over the park. There was an extensive view; but, probably owing to the season, the country'- had a dusty and rather gloomy aspect. The sun was sinking below the western horizon, and the long shadow of the house fell over a terrace planted with orange trees. Suddenly I heard Miss Angelina's voice, talking with her pupil. The two young people were sitting on the terrace before a small table, on which a negress placed work-baskets and embroidery. I was able to watch them at my leisure. Miss Angelina, although scarcely twenty, looked twenty-five. She was tall and slender, and had dark eyes and hair. Her demeanour, although somewhat stiff, was not wanting in grace. The features of the learned young woman were irreproachably regular, and gave a severe, even cold look to her countenance. 152 MY B AMBLES IN THE NEW WOBLD. Her dress, more elegant than coquettish, showed the extreme care she bestowed on her person. In short, with her clear com- plexion, her handsome mouth, black eyes, fine teeth, and long hands. Miss Angelina was a perfect type of her most refined countrywomen . Like her governess, Miss Arabella Dumont had dark hair and eyes, but her expression, instead of being commanding and imperious, was gentle and lovable. She was of middle height, graceful in every movement, and distinguished by that languid nonchalance which in hot climates is one of the charms of Creole women. Her dress, less strictly faultless and less prim than that of her governess, appeared to me of the best taste. The young girl's complexion was pallid, her hands and feet were those of a child, and her face was as animated when she was listening as when she spoke ; she was, in fact, a French woman. About five o'clock I was summoned to go to the general by his valet, a young mulatto, about fifteen years old. My host, still in his riding-boots and spurs, had just gone the round of his plantation. " I had pity on you to-day," said he to me ; " but to-morrow you must go with me, and not be afraid of showing your admiration. You probably know that one's own plot of ground is always the best ; thus, my cotton is far superior to my neigh- bours', although each of them maintains the contrary." We went over the garden, I should say the park, for it extended over several acres. Fine walnut trees were growing side by side with their European brothers, somewhat stunted by the hot climate. It was a whim of my host's to have trees of both hemispheres growing together around his house, where apple trees, pear trees, and apricots were overshadowed by fine mangoes. " I get pears, peaches, and apricots, which would certainly be despised at Paris," said the general ; " but they are better than none afc all." During dinner Miss Angelina, who took the place of mistress of the house, led the conversation on to American politics, just FROM HAVANNAH TO NEW ORLEANS. 153 then replete with important questions. I tried at first to put in a word, but soon prudently contented myself with listening. Miss Angelina spoke well, and the general had not always the best of the argument. I was — a spectacle as curious as it was instructive for me — in presence of two compatriots talking of their country ; but I doubt if Poland is separated from Kussia by deeper feelings of dissension than those which divide North America from the South. There is an antagonism of race, language, religion, and education; the Yankee and the Creole seem destined to hate each other. We went out on to the terrace to take coffee, and there I was presented to five or six neighbours, who had come to call on the general. The conversation was at first on the price of sugar, cotton, brandy, and slaves ; and then every one was silent to listen to Miss Angelina discussing a medical topic with a German doctor. From the topography of the human body the young lady, by I know not what sudden transition, brought us to the topography of the sky, where the beautiful constellation of the Southern Cross was now visible. The visitors, the general especially, seemed charmed to see me listening so intently to their learned countrywoman. They thought I was astonished, when, in reality, I was simply surprised to hear a young girl talking on all subjects with the self-possession of an old professor ; and I looked with pleasure at Miss Arabella, who, inattentive and smiling, was playing with a kitten. The next day, before dinner time, I had been all over the Messangere estate, and had duly admired my host's cows, horses, and cotton plantations. What most interested me were the slaves' cabins. Thanks to the master's generosity, each cabin was furnished with a bedstead, a chest of drawers, and a table ; and the occupants, men and women, had a small garden and a yard, the products of which belonged to them. My host's kind- ness and humanity were manifest, and his little colony, wisely ordered and managed, was a pleasure to see. Certainly the comfort enjoyed by the negroes at Messangere did not reconcile me to slavery ; but I promised, if ever I was obliged to resign my liberty, I would choose no other master than General Dumont. 154 MY n AMBLES ..J THE NEW WORLD. The Sunday following my arrival, there was a grand dinner given in my honour. All the afternoon cariiages arrived, bringing about thirty guests. All were of French origin, and spoke the language of their mother country. Miss Angelina soon left the ladies, and began talking business and politics with the gentlemen. Miss Arabella led her younger friends on to the terrace, from whence we could hear their joyous bursts of laughter. " There is no use in my having Miss Angelina as governess to my daughter; it is already too late to reform the young sapling." " Was not Miss Arabella educated at New York? " " Yes ; at a French school. Arabella knows how to sew, embroider, draw, and play on the piano, but she knows nothing whatever of the serious things of life." " I think you are unjust, general." " Ko, I am practical. In sending my daughter to a French school in New York, I committed an error, which I shall always regret." " Miss Arabella is witty, learned, and modest ; what more can you wish for ? " *' Can she be compared to Miss Angelina?" " No. I place her far above that pedantic doctress, who has nothing of her sex save her dress." " And beauty." " That depends upon taste." " You are unjust in your turn, or rather, you are reasoning in this matter with your French prejudices. The woman is equal to the man, and the time has como to expect something more of her than love of frivolities. " Wo are of the same opinion, general. Women should be instructed ; but it is going beyond the mark, to teach young girls certain sciences before they are twenty years old. Your slave ctastiser . . . ." "Would you like to discuss the subject of 'education of women ' with her ? " " No," cried I ; " I prefer to declare myself defeated before- hand." FROM nAVANNAH TO NEW OBLEANS. 155 The dinner-bell sounded, and I offered my arm to the learned young lady, who undoubtedly had heard my speech. She looked at me Ironically for a moment, and appeared to hesitate. Her large black eyes shone, hor rosy lips, half parted, displayed her white teeth : she was really very beautiful. At last she took my arm. "Do you know," said she, "that an ancient law of my country, which I do not think is repealed, allows the woman who has leaned on a man's arm, to claim that man as her husband ? " I made an involuntary movement backward. The young lady held me. "Mr. Martin," said she, addressing an old gentleman who was following us, " I a.sk you to be witness that this gentleman has offered me his arm." CHAPTEK III. Moliere and the education of women— New Orleans— Scarcity of filtered water— The Cincinnati and the Jacltson—BsxM on board— A guest with- out knowing it— Conclusion. I WAS somewhat embarrassed. Miss Angelina had evidently only joked when she cited a law which in any case could not extend to foreigners, and I had allowed myself to commit a deplorable breach of gallantry. "Did I frighten you?" resumed the young girl, with a dis- dainful smile. "Be assured, sir, that if I cared about being married, I should not have recourse either to force or subter- fuge." " You are too beautiful," I replied, with a low bow, " for ad- mirers ever to be wanting. Who would not be happy to be honoured with your hand ? " " You for one," replied the young lady ; " for I have noticed 156 3fY Ji AMBLES IN THE NEW WOULD. that I have not the gift of pleasing you. Do not excuse your- self ; it is reciprocal. You belong to a nation I do not like, , particularly on account of its prejudices with regard to the edu- cation of women. One of your classical authors — whom you consider as the first comedian in the world, as though Shake- speare had never existed — pretends, or something very much like it, that my sex knows enough when it knows how to sew on a button." " Moliore wrote two centuries ago, before the invention of railroads, the electric telegraph, and free women," I replied. " But you are mistaken, Miss Angelina, in thinking that he only accorded women the right of sewing on buttons ; he would have them good, wise, and devoted. He even wishes them to be learned, so long as they do not appear to be so." " He wanted servants, sir ; and that is, in fact, what they obtain in your beautiful France better than anywhere else." We took our seats at table, and fortunately I was not placed next Miss Angelina, which cut short the bitter-sweet conversa- tion between us. During dinner the young American lady speechified with her ordinary self-possession, which, undoubtedly on account of our national prejudices, appeared to me more displeasing than ever. "With us young girls are perhaps too timid, too modest, if modesty can be considered as a fault. The Americans, I must say with regret, have certainly gone too far in the opposite direction. I must also add that Miss Angelina had for her part passed ^.he boundary in all points of view. It was decidedly not the learning that I found fault with in my fair antagonist, but the constant showing oflf of her own powers. I am in no way