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Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure ara filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top ^^B vSHv j.'teT;. ~^"^^^^B >l ^ i ■=J s ^^bb SS^M s PI^Hj i ^''^F^H a.^fr'^'if'H .'Mr' ^|H IK->-'iLTt -^w- iiH Jai,. • ^ a^M'. _^^Jl.i Ir '^(^^1 t J'^.l^ ^1^ !f^,^ ^'^MM F ^ 'iJra HbUj-t'^I ■ikr^ ^»fj^ifc3 lBHBBBmj"* ~'l! ^^MliF^ r OhZjHK^ '•^mm^^HhiKmQIMB lfeteJ^Qi£t3^nnK ^n ^^^^^^^^IHBnBI ^EB^ ^^^H^^HSnH HHkU ^^^^B ^K<^yiS JfflffH ^ 1 ■iS;f;^:i^^II Ma Bsl^^^^ft'' ' - ^^''fl ^^^BBnB^' -'mk HI ^^HcEn^^^ inl BvMHIIHIIIII H^^KiVN r iSllm ^BH ^^SEscjIb muwwH ^^Hc^^l^H ^rs: I^^^^^H ^I^^^EXvS^^^^ ^XhBm^^B 1 KRB^^R <9i^l *f; t /l«M»W tl^.,l/iS.»»»1^i-i^»Kfc^j/ ^:' "■■wv f p'''**n-.-. CAPTAIN COOK'S , V O Y A G E S ROUND THE WORLD, Tlie Firft performed in the Years 1768, 1769, 17704 1771 } The Second in 1772, 1773, 1774, 1775; The Third and Laft in 1 776, 1777, 1778, 1779, and 1 780 ; FOR MAKIN6 DISCOVEflES IN THE Northern and Southern HemifphereSy BY OROER OF HIS PRESENT MAJESTY* CONtAININO A Relation of all the Interefting Tranfadions WHICH OCCURKEBf IN THE COURSE 0F:THE VOYAGES.- <:;aptain Surneaux's. journal *" ' Of his Proceeding!* during the Separation of the Ships. WITH' ^A Narrative of Commodore Pbipps^ Voyage to the North Pole, AND An abridge me NT of POSTER'S [ Introduction to his Hiftory of Northern Dilboveries ON THE PROGRESS OF NAVIGATION. ^. TO WH I C H 1 S ADDED, II ^^^^^^ Phillip's Voyage to Botany-Bay:;,,, -. With an Account of the Eftablifhmentof the Colonies cf Port Jfackfon^raiQ^ Norfolk Idand, &c. &c. VOL. I. -^: ifc.- ;•! N E W C A S T L Ei tRIMTItS BV M. BdOWNf AT THE BlBUEi IN THE FI.SSU»]|ftARK£T. M.OCC.XC. B /iW V f -;■* -''Siws^- r-^-':-* *<■ ^=? INTRODUCTION. AFTER the great improvements that have been made in Na- vigation fince the difcovery of America| it may well be 'II lousht itrange that a very coitfideiablc part of the globe on which '^ ve live fhould ftill have remained unknown ; that it ihould dill lave been the fubje£l of fpeculation, whether a great portion of he Southern Hemifphere is land or water j and, even where land lad been difcovered, that neither its extent nor figure fliould have >een afcertained; ^ But the caufe has probably been, that fovercign ?rinces have feldom any other motive for attempting the difcovery >f new countries than to conquer them, that the advantages of ronquering countries which mull firft be difcovered are remote and mcertain, and that ambition has always found obje£ls nearer lome. It is the diftinguilhing chara6leriflic of his Majelly to i£l from more liberal motives ; and having the bed fleet, and the braved as well as .-nod able navigators in Europe, his Majedy has, not with a vievr to the acquifition of.treafure, or the extend of dominion, but the improvement of commerce and the increafe »t>d diiFunon of knowledge, undertaken what has fo long been ne« glecled ; and under his aufpices, in a few years, difcovcries have Been made far greater than thofe of all the navigators in the world colle£tively, from the expedition of Columbus to the prefent time. To do judice, however, to the beginnings of difcovery, we muft afcribe to the Dutch the merit of b^ing our harbingers ', though we afterwards went beyond tliem, even in their own track. And how fuccefsfully his Majedy's (hips have penetrated into the obfcured receflcs of the South Pacific Ocean, will appear from a recitjil of tlieir various and extenfive operations, which have adjuded the geography of fo confiderable a part of the globe. The fevcral lands, mentioned to have been difcovered by prece-^ ding navigators, whether Spanifli or Dutch, have been diligently fought after ; and mod of thofe which appeared to be of any confe- quence, found out and vifited ; when every method was put id pra£lice to corredt former midakes, and fupply former deficiencies. But, befides perfefting the difcoveries of their predcceiTors, our late navigators have added a long catalogue of their own, to enrich geographical knowledge. By repeatedly traverfing the Pacific Ocean, within the fouth tropic, a feeming endlefs profufion of habitable fpots of land was found. - Iflands interfperfed through the amazing fpace of fourfcore degrees of longitude, either fepa- rately fcattercd, or grouped in numerous cluders ; and iuch ample accounts have we received, both of them and their inhabitants^ A 2 thatu ■t % 1 % ine our kno^^'ledBe of the ^^^^^l^^^^^^ f,, that ocean extended to . mote ge"V . * . ^hen we travevfe the gioue tu > gxiftcnce, r £-"e,'.utras «-.<»»..™»^£'o^S t p'le of the f" h .xprcfe PrP°f7lS I hiT wants, by com^umc- • S,of ideas «?»* "^l"'^,Vc Sfe »f theit «aCon, by .he -* men Great-Britain was faft vUitea y _j ^^^„ ji,„fe of '^ iabitams were painted f>^S"^.,'"^*ot in>P»''^ble, but that our Kt^boo.orO,ahe^^-d. .^^^^^^^^^ *,*.■■ ftlittte icreaf- . the li- ded to \t con- ed un- back a ndcrful angers, 38*'of wiihin already d New r to pro- ging pri- tribes ot ixiftence, lie of the nmunica* )jeaed by mbyCap- [s. Some jciety, and tn. Their erials muft on, by the 1 vifitors, of r to emerge left behind The ufe- ill certainly ians, the in- han thofe of but that our fmgs of civi- 3Uth Pacific] able repafts, THE I F E m AND PUBLIC SERVICES o r Captain yames Cook. CAPTAIN James Cook was bom in the year 1727, near Whitby, in Yorkfhire; anc|, at aii early age, commenced an apprcntice(hip to a (hop-keep- er in a neighbouring village. This not being fuitablc to his natural propenfity, he foon quitted the counter, and contraded, for nine years, with the mafter ofa veC< fel in the coal trade. In 1755, ^^ ^^^ commencement of the war, he entered into the king's fervice on board the Eagle, then commanded by Captain Hamer» and afterwards by Sir Hugh Pallifer, who perceiving his merit, advai^fHE^lum to the quarter deck«< 1 V- ■ VI .1 THE LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. ' In 1 758, we find him mafter of the Northumbci'land, Lord Colvillc's flag (hip, wlio then commanded the fquadron ftationed on the coaft of America. Here, as he has frequently declared, he firft read Euclid, and clofcly applied himfelf to the ftudy of the mathematics^ with the afTiftancc of only a few books, and his own induftry. While he thus found means to cultivate his underftanding, and fupply, in fome degree, the defi- ciencies of an early education, he was engaged in mod of the adive fcenes g( war in America. At the liege of Quebec, he was intmfted by Sir Cliarles Saunders with the execution of important fervices, in the naval department. He was the pilot who condudled the boats to the attack of Montmorency 5 managed the em- barkation to the heights of Abraham ; and pointed out, by buoys, how the large {hips might proceed with fe- curity v^ *"he river. The manner in which he acquitted himfelf * hefe important fervices, procured him the efteem andfriendfhip of Sir Charles Saunders and Lord Colvillc, who continued his zealous patrons during the remiaindcr of their lives. At the cohdufion of the war, be was appointed, through the intereft of Lord Colville and Sir Hugh Pallifer, to make a furvey of the Gulf of St Lawrence, aad the coafts of Newfoundland. He was thus employed till the year 1 767, when Sir Ed- ward Hawke appointed him to the command of an ex- pedition to the South Seas ; in order to make an obfer- vation on the tranfit of Venus, and to profecute difco- vcries in that part of the globe. His k P n ii( tic pli he car 2 ena Dec< upo fubr =p^ iberland, ided the Here, as cli(l, and bcmatics^ his own [tivate h\5 the defi- d in mod the liege Saunders the naval uded the ed the em- Dinted out, ;d with fe- le acquitted id him the s and Lord during the of the war, 3rd Colville the Gulf of dland. He hen Sir Ed- id of an ex- ce an obfer- fecute difco- Hi«l THE LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOK. Vll His fcrviccs, fincc this period, are too generally known to require enumeration. His reputation has proportionably advanced beyond the effect of panegy- ric. He fecms, indeed, to have been peculiarly quali- fied for this fpecics of enterprize. His natural inclina- tion, the nature of his fervices, and indefatigable a|>- plication, all confpired to compleat him for it ; fo that he acquired fiich a degree of profcffional knowledge, as can fall to the lot of very few. His frame and conftitution were robuft, and fuch as enabled him to undergo the fevered hardfliips. Whca neceflity required it, he could feed, w^ith fatisfa^itm, upon the coarfeil and mod ungrateful food ; and he fubmitted to every kind of felf^-denial with the gi-eatell compofure and indifference. Nor were the qualities of his mind lefs vigorous than thofe of his body. His un- derdanding was drong and perfpicacious; his judgment bfpecially in thofe matters in which he was m€^ parti- cularly engaged, quick and fure. His defigns and opera- tions, were the natursd refult of ^eat original genius^ is valour was cool, deliberate, and determined ;. ac- ompanied with a mod adonifhingprefencepf mind oq Q approach of danger. His manners were plain, eafy, nd unafiedted. His temper, it mud be admitted^ wai 00 much fubjedt to hadinefs and padion ^ but this ould be forgot^n, when it is confidered, that his dii^ ofidon was the mod benevolent and humaste^ Thefe are a few traits or outlines of the charadlcr of CaptaiQ 4 . : ; Viii THE LIFE OF CAPTAIN COOIC Captain Cook ; but its diftingui(hing feature was, thtf moft unremitting perfevcrance to accomplifh his defign, in oppolition to dangers, difficulties, and hardfhips. During all his long and tedious voyages, his eagernefs and adivity were never in the lead abated. No allur- ing incitement could detain him for a moment ; ev*?n thole intervals of recreation, which unavoidably occur- red in the courfe of our fervices, and were joyfully em- braced by many of his officers, were fubmitted to by him with impatience, if they could not be made fub- fervientto the more efFe to in6. tne exadb variation of the mag^ neiical needle, B To Balance, to contract a fail into a narrower compafs, in a. Iftorm, by retrenching or folding up apart of it at one corner. Beams, ftrong thick pieces of timber, ftretching acrofs the fliip from fide to fide, to fupport the decks, ani retain the iid^s at their ^ f" NAUTICAL TERMS. f 1 1 ■«nd of the lower tnaft, whilft the latter receives the maft employed to lengthen it) and fecures it in this |)o(ition. C*^ NAUTICAL TERMS. «U[ Ca^ertty or Cnftflan^ a flrong, mafTy column of timber, formed like a truncated cone, and havins its upper ^extremity pierced with a number of holels to receive the bars or lerers. It is let down per- pendicularly through the decks of a (hip, and is fixed in fuch manner, that the men, by turning it horisontally with their bars, may perform any work wnich requires an extraordinary effort* CqflinPf the motion of falling off, fo as to bring the direction of the wind on either fide of the (hip after it had blown for fojne time right a^^head. Chains, (Irong links or plates of iron, the lower ends of which are bolted through the (hip's fide to the timbers. They are placed at (hort dillances from each other on the (hip's outfide, as being ufed to contain the blocks called dead-eyes, by which the Ptroudi of the mads are extended. Cheeks aftke maji, the faces or proje£^ing partt on each fide of , the mails, ufed to fuftain the frame of the top, together with the top-mad, which reds immediately upon them. Ciatving, or Clu'wing-off, the ^€i of beating or turning to wind-.- ward from a lee-(hore, fo as to acquire a fuihcient didance from it, to efcape the dangers of (hipwreck. Cleats, pieces of wood of different (hape$, ufed occafionally t« faden ropes upon in a (hip. Clench, or Qinch, that part of a cable, or other rope, which ig fadened to the ring of the anchor, Clofe upon a wind, or Clofe-hauled, the general arrangements or trim of a (hip's fails, when die endeavours to make a progrefs in the neared diredion poiTible towards that point; of the compafs from which the wind blows. To Cleiv, or Chiv-up, to trufs the fails up to the yards by tackled fadened to their louver corners, called their clews. Cockfivain, or Coxen, the officer who manages and deers a boat, and has the ^omrna.iid of the boat's crew. CompanioVi a fort of wooden porch placed over the entrance or dair-cafe of a mader's cabin in a ;iierchaut-diip. Courfes, a name by which the principal fails of a (liip are ufual- ly didinguilhed, viz. tjie maiuTfail, fore-fail, and mi/^n. Crank, the quality of a (hip which for want of a fufficiept quan- tity of ballajl ox cargo, is rendered incapable of carrying fail with- out being expofed to the danger of overturning. D Half-Deck, a fpace under the quarter-deck of a (hip of war, con*, tained between the foremad bulkhead of xhtjleerage and the fore- part of the quarter-deck. J)rivingf the date of being carried at random «lgng the furfi\ce pa ^ ■^:-:-r}- €ie NAUTICAL TERM»; t>f the vater, by a ftorm or current : it is generally exprefled of a Piip when broken loofe from her anchors or moorings. M Te Edge away, to decline gradually from the fhore, or from tho fine o]f the co^rfe which the fhip formerly fleered. ./ F PaUf the loofe end of a tackle ; or that part upon which the peo- ple pull, or hoift, to produce the required efFe£l. To Filli to brace the fails in fuch a manner, as that the wind, ifetitering their cavities from behind, dilates them fo as to advance the (hip in her courfe. jp//^i is a long piece of oak, convex on one (Ide, and convave on tlie other. It is ufed to f^ften upon the outflde of the lower mails, as an additional fecurity, to flrengthen them when it be<. comes neceifary to carry an extraordinary preiTure of fail. The 61hes arc alfo employed for. the fame purpofe on any yard| which llappens ^o be fprung or fra£lured. J^IaiVf a fudden breeze, or guft of wind. JPhoKf the bottom of a ftiip. /'W of a fail, lower edge or bottom. Foot-rope, the rope to which the foot of a fail is fewed. Fore, all that part of a fhip's frame and machinery which liej fic^r the head. G Gafy a fort of boom or pole, ufed to extend the upper edge of |:hc mizen. The foremaft, or inner extremity of it, is furnifhtjd with two cheeks forming a femicircle, which inclofe the after-p^rf pf the mad fo as to confine the gaff clofe to its refpe£live thalt \rhtl{l the fail is hoilling or lowering. Gdfjgivay, a narrow platform, or range of planks, laid horizon- fally affng the upper part of a fhip*s fide, from the quarter-deck to the forecaftic, for the convenience of walking more expeditiouf- iy fore and aft, than by defcending into the waiil. Gangiuay, is alfp that part of a fhip's fide, both within and with^f put, by which the paflengers enter and depart. It is for this pur^ pofe provided with a fuflicient number of fteps, or cleats, nailed iipon the fhip's fide, nearly as low as the furface of the water ; and Ibmctinics furniflicd with a railed accommodation-ladder, whofe lower end projedls frorn the fhip's fidc,bei1ig fecured in this pofition \jj iron braces, fo as to render'the afcent and defcent convenient, \ Grapplitjg, z fmill anchor, fitted with four or fivci flukes of fslavt^s, commonly iifed to ride a boat or other fmall vefTeh Gunke^i tot Gi^nitp^ie^ thS ppbcf iedgc of a Ihib*^ fide. —■''^^' -' -n ;^ ? - ■■ f' ^ ^ ■ ^^^ NAUTICAL TERMS. «a H Handing thefailr, rolling them up clofc to the yard or raaft ta whicli they belong. Hdmmacoejf the fame with liammoc. To Haui, an exprelfion peculiar to Teamen, implying to putl a finglc rope, without the afliilancc of blocks, or other mechanical powers. To Haul the nvind, to diredl the fliip's courfe nearer to thaJ: point of the compafs from which the wind arifes. Hatvfer, a large rope which holds the middle degree betwccil the cabie and tow-line. Heaving-fhortf i&the drawing fo much of the cable into the (hip^ I by means of the capOern or windlafs, as that by advancing, Ihe will be almoft perpendicularly above tlie anchor, and in a proper Ifttuation to fet fail. Heaving-taughtf the aft of heaving about the capftern, till thd Irope applied thereto becomes ftraight and ready for adlioHk To Heelf to ftoop or incline to either fide. ; Hummock^ a little hill« jgrJeedy cured with fait. jfib^ or jfUf-bootftf a boom run out from the extremity of the boW* .V>rit, parallel, to its length, and ferving to extend the bottom df tlio jib, and the Itay of the foie-top-gailant-mall. K , Kcdgf, a fmall anchor, ufed to keep a fhip fteady whilft {\\^: rides in a harbour or river. Fa/fe Kee/f a ftrong, thick piece of timber, bolted to the mam \erl to preferve its lower fide. Kneet a crooked piece of timber, having two branches or ar^S^ |nd generally ufed to connect the beams of a iliip with iier ^bftet- )r timbers, L LngasJf, a lake. Larbaardy the left fide of a ihip when the eye of a fpe^^ator U irefted forward. ^ ^ La/hingf a piece of rope employed to fallen or fccure any movS» ^lu body in a (hip, or about her mails, fails, and rigging : alfo th^. of fattening or fecaring any thing by means of the rope ufed »r this purpofe. [Logi a machine ufed to meafure the fhlp's head- way, or the fait her velocity as flie advances through the feai It is compofed of reel and line, to which is fixed a fmall piece of wood^ forming thi bdrant of a ciftle. The term % howeveif is m^tt partisuTaf If \l' n «sU NAUTICAL TERMS. uppllcd to the btter. The log, is generally about a quarter of nu inch thick, «n4 five or fix inches front the angular point to the circumference. It is balanced by a thin plate of lead, nailed upon the arch* fo as to fwim perpendicularly in the water, with about two- tlUrds impreflcd under the fi'.rface. The line i» falloned to the log l)y means of two legs, one of which paflcs through a hole at the cor« DCTft and is knotted on the oppofite iide ; whilfl. the other leg is at- tached toth^ arch by a pin faced in another hole, fo as to draw out occafionally. By thefe legs the log is hung in eauilibrio, and the ti<^ which is united to it, is divided into certain ipaces, which are in proportion to an equal number of geographical miles, as a half |)\inute or quarter minute is to an hour of time. l.ug'fail, a fquare fail, hoiiled occaiionally on the mail of a boat, #r fm^U veilel, upon a yard which hangs nearly at right angles with the m^ftt M T9 Maie the latutf is to difcover it from a didant (ituation, in CQ^fequence of approaching it after a fca-voyage. ^iVm, the aftcrniofl or nindm'od of the fixed fails of a ihip. Mooring, the a£t of confining and fecuring a (hip in a particu- lar Ration, by chains or cables, which are either faftened to Hvi tdjacent ihorc, ox to anchors in the bottom. ii^ N Reaped, the fituation of a fliip which is left aground on the height of a fprinj^-tide, fo that (he cannot be floated off till the re- tmo of the riext ipring. O Opngi implies out at fea ; or at a competent didar^ce from the ihore, and generally out of anchor-ground, Opjs^ny is expveffed of any diflant obje£^, to which the fight or I pafTige is not intercepted by fomething lying, or coming between, Thus, to be open with any place, is he oppofite to it \ as the en-f try of a port, road, or haven, 1 Qver-hauUng, the a£^ of opening and extending the feveral parts of a tackie^ or other afiemblagc of ropes, communicating with blocks, or dead-eyes. It is ufed to remove thofe blocks to a fuffi* ut a maft orl :)eenj^Jhed orl Lited into one] 1!^ e mails of a n the I'ne of] CAPTAIN :-::::It: StfiltSt^pSi theTRA^CKS of the SHIPS xmder his Cmmaand. ■* " I / CAPTAIN C O O K's I ■ \ FIRST r OTA G E, Cotnmenced in 1768, and finifhed in I77i# HIS Majefty, a few years after his accellion ta the throne, turned his .thoughts to voyages of difcovery, particularlyLlIn the Southern Hemi-J fphere : Three were made by Captain Byron, Captaitx Wallis, and Captain Carter£it, at different periods, tn confequence of their fuccefs, other voyages were pro- jeded, upon a more enlarged fcale, and carried into execution by Captain Cook, who made three alfo : unhappily, the lall was one too many, as it was at the expence of his life. Captain Cook received his commiflion, dated the 25th of May, 1768; and on the 27th went on board the EndeavoOr, a bark of 320 tons, which had beea originally built for the coal-trade, and had on board tea carriage and twelve fwivel guns ; he hoifted the pen- nant, and took charge of the fhip, which then l|ty in the bafon in Deptford Yard ; fhe was fitted for fea with all expedition ; and flores and provifions being taken on board, failed down the river on the 30th of July, and on the 13th of Auguft anchored in Plymouth Sound, I .•'*'c ■-.,1 ■■■<. ..'.4 .a iiilr^ ■ .. -^r**.^!.-. "wwmwiTW^IiiiTrr Ibdulxiling iheBlSCOVE&lES mdle byCapC^^flP'S' ^*^^^ i*^ ^e ^*^ ^tcl;fh had not introduced w'ine vcllels which are too big to be carried by hand, and which, therefore, arc dragged about the town up» Ion ihefe machines. One reafon, perhaps, why art and induftry have done Ifo little for Madeira is, Nature's having done fo much. [The foil is very rich, and there u fuch a difference of climate be'aveen the plains and the hills, tliat therq is icarcely a fmgle obiedl of luxury that grows either in Kiirope or the Indies, that might not be produced hergtr- When they went to nfit Dr Heberden, who lives upoft a confiderable afcent, about two miles from town, they loft the thermometer at 74, and when they arrived at pis houfe, tliey found it at 66. The hills produce, aU loll fpontaneoully, walnuts, chelnuts, and apples in jreat al)undance ; and in the town there are many plant? 'hlch are the natives botli of the Eall and Weil Indies, articularly the banana, the guava, the pine-appk or . Vol.1. N^,. E fiaaaa, n^- 34 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. ll anana, and the mango, which flouri(h ahnoft without culture. The corn of thts country is of a moft excel- lent quality, lar^e grained and very fine, and the ifland would produce it in great plenty ; yet moft of what is confumed by the inhabitants is imported. The mutton, Eork, and beef, are alfo very goocf; the beef in particu-? ir, which they took on board here, was univeffally al- lowed to be fcarcely inferior to our own ; the lean part was very like it, both in colour and ^ain, though the beafts are much fmaUer, but the &t is as white as the fat of mutton. The town of Funchiale derives its iiame from Funcbo^ the PortugUefc name for fennel, which ^rows in great plenty upon the neighbouring rocks, and, by the obfer- vation oi Dr Hebetden, lies in the lat. of 32 d. ^3 m, 33 f. R and long. 16 d. 49. m. W. It is (ituated in the bottom of a bay, and though larger than the extent of the. ifland feems to deferve, is very ill built; the houfeft of the principal inhabitants are largf^^ thofe of the com- mon people are fmall, the ftreets are narrow, and worfe paved than any they ei?1ir faw. The churches are loaded with ornaments, among which are many pi^urea,aiid ioiages of favourite faints^ but the pictures are in ge- neral wretchedly |^ted« and ihe mints are drefied in laced cloaths. Some of the convents are in a better tafte, efpeciaJly that of the Francifcans, which is plain, fimple, and neat in the higheil degree. The intirmarr ia particular drew their attention as a model whicn might be adopted in ot!ier countries with great advali- tage. It connfls of a long room^ on otte fide of whkh are the windows, and an altar for the convenience oitA- miniftering the facrament to the fick : the other fic^ is divided into wards, each cf which is juft big enough to contain a bed, and neatly lined with gally-tiles ; benmd thefe wards, and parallel to the room ii; which tSey N^and, fbere ruws a long gallery, with which each ward communicates by a door, fo that the fick may be fl^a l^y fuppiied with whatever they want withou.. jiif- turbing m^r neighbours. In tliis convent there is alfo CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 9f • a fingular curiofity of another kind ; a fmall chapel, the whole lining of which, both fides and ceiling, is com- pofed of human iciills and thigh bones; the thigh bones are laid acrofs each other, and a fcull is placed in each of the four angles. Among the fcuUs one is very re- markable ; the upper and the lower jrw, on one fide, perfedlly and firmly cohere ; how the olfification which unites them was formed, it is not perhaps very eafy to conceive, but it is certain that the patient muft have lived fome time without opening his mouth : what nourifliment he received was conveyed through a hole which they difcovered to have been made on the other fide, by forcing out fome of the teeth, in doing which ihejaw alfo feems to have been injured. They vifited the good Fathers of this convent oii a Thurfday evening, juft before fupper-time, atid thet received them with great politenefs : " We will not afk " you, faid they, to fup with us, becaufe we are riot " prepared, but if you will come to-morrow, though it " is faft with us, we will have a turkey roafted for " you." This invitation, which fhewed a liberality of fentiment Aot to have been expeiftcd in a convent of Portuguefe Friars at this place, gratified them much^ though it was not in iheir power to accept it. They vifited alfo a convent of nuns, dedicated to Santa Clara ^ r.nd the Ladies did them the honour to exprefs a particular pleafure in feeing them there : they had heard that there were great philofophers among the Englifh, and not at all knowing what were the obje<^ of philofophical knowledge, they afked them feveril queftions that were abfurd and extravagant in. tb^ higheit degree ; one was, when it would thunder ; «ra another, whether a Ipring of fre(h water was to be found any where within the walls of their convent, of which it feems they were in great Waifit. It will naturally b^ fuppofed that their anlwers to fuch queftions were nd»i ther fatisfadory to the Ladiesi^ nor, m their eftimation, honourable to them; yet their difappointment did not in the leaft leilen their civility, and they talked, without £ 2 ceaiing, ^ .CArTAIN COOK'j FIRST VOYAGE. ceafinp:., during the wliole of the vilit, wlilch laded about half an hour. The hills of -his country are very h\gh ; the higheft, Pico Rulvo, riles 5 068 fett, near an Enf^Villi mile, per- p-endiculany from iis bail% wiiicli is much higher than .any land that h.is hecn ine;*fnred in Great Britain. The fidc^ of thefe hills arc covcrcil with vint-s to a certain tioight, ab:;Yc rvhicn there are woods of ciicfnut and pine of immcnie c'vtcn% and above tlieni forelts of \rild timber of various kinds not known in Europe ; particularly two, called by th<:; VV')rtiifnicr^, Mtrniuiam and Paohranco^ tlie leaves of both which, particularly the Faohranco, are fo beriutltui, that tiicfe trees would be n great ornament to tlie garilens of Europe. The number of inhabitanr^i in this ifland is fuppofed "| fo be about 80,000, and the cuftom-houfe duties pro- cTuce a revenue to the king of F'ortugal of 20,oco po'.< d^ ft-year, clear of all expences, v\hich might eaiily he doubled by the prod u A of the ifland, cxclufive ot" the tiftes, if advantage was taken of the excellence of the cli- fiiate, and the amazir.g fertility of the ibil ; but this ob- |e!£l is utterly negledled by the Poriiiguefe. In the trade of the inhabitants of Ma^^ira with Lifbon the balance 1'^ againft them, fo that all the Fortuguefc money nji- ttirally going thither, the currency of the ifland is Spa- Ilifh ; there are indeed a few Ponuguefe pieces of copr per,, but they arc ^o fcarce that they did not fee one ot them: th.e Sp'.«.'ilih coin is of three denominations; l^ilereens, worth about a Ihilllng ; Bitta, woi-th about fiJk-pencej and Ha' f-bitts, three-pence. I'he tides at this pluce flow at the full and change of the moon^ north and iouth ; tlie jpring tidci^rife leven feet perpendicular, and tlic neap tides four. The re- frcfhments to be had Jicre, are ^^ ater, wine, fruit of fe- •Vcji'al fons, oni(:»ns in plenty, and fome fwect meats j frefli meat and poultry are not to be had without \ciiiiQ from the governor,, and the payment of a very high price. 1 : lliey took iti 2 70 lb. pf freili beef, and a lire l^ullock* \^ ' '■■ * chi«*gc4 CAPTAIN COOK',^ FIRST VOYAGE 37 dir.rged at 6131b. 3.0 p gallons of Water, and ten tnns oivvine: and ii the night, between Sunday the i8rh and Monday the i(}th of September, they let Tail in proi'ecution of their vc^yage. On the 21(1 of Scptemhcr they faw the iilands called the Salvages, to the norlh of tltr Canaries ; on Friday the 23d faw the Peak of T eneriffe. The height of tbb vaountain, from which Captain Cook, took a new de- parture, has been determined hv Dr Hcbcrden, who iias been iipoii it, to be 15,396 feet, which is but 148 yards lefs than three miler, reckoning the mile at 170^ yards. Its appearance at ruMfct was very llriking; whe»i the fun was below the ]>ori/on, and the reii f the ifland appeared of a deep black, the mountain ilili ra* fieded its rays, and glowed with a warmth of colour which no painting can cxprefs. Ti^ere is no eiiipcion of vifible fire from it, but a heat iiTues from the chinks near the top, too flrong to be borne by the hand when ir is held near them. They had received from I)r rl'jlierden, among other favours, fome ^alt which hi* roilcfted ori the top of the mountain, where it is found in large qiutntities, and wliich he fuppofes to be tht true natrum or nilriwi of the ancients : he gaV3 {hefl% itlic) fome native (idphur exceedingly pure, which he had likevvife found upon the furface in great plenfy. On the next day, Saturday the 24th, they camu into tl-e north-eaR trade wind, and on Friday ti'ie 3orh faw ■ ' ■wi Villa, one of the Cape de Ycxd Ulands; they rang- ' >..c eafl fide of it, at the dillance of tlir'ee or four iua-s lom the (hore, till they were obliged to haul off to avoi.i a Icclge cf rocks which ilrelch out S, \V. by \V. from the body, or S. \\, point oi' the iOand, to tho extent of a ^ ^4gue and a half. Dunng their courle from Teneriub to Bona Vifta they faw great numbers of flying tilh, which from the P cabin windows appear beautiful beyond imaartiatJon^ I* heir fides having the colour and brightiicf^ of l>urniih- 1^ ^ J f Ivcr ; when they are {een from the deck ihcy da |£K}t app€£U' ta fo much gdvmtagQf becaufe tlieir bad:t 38 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. are of a dark colour. They alfo took a fliark, which proved to be the Squalus Charcharias of Linnaeus. On the feventh, Mr Banks went out in the boat and took what the feamen call a Portuguefe man of war ; it is the Holothuria Ph^alis of Linnaeus, and a fpecies of the Mollufia, They alfo took feveral of the mell-fifhes, or teilaceous animals, which are always found floating upon the water, particularly the Helix Jantbina and Yialacea, On the tenth, Mr Banks (hot the black-toed cull, not yet defcribed according to Linnaeus's fyftem ; he gave it the name of Larm crepidatus. On the 25th, they croiled the line with the ufual ceremonies. In the e''(»ning of the 29th, they obferved that lu- minous app J ce of the fea which has been fo often mentioned by - vigators, and of which fuch various caufes have l)een afli^ned ; fome fuppofing it to be oc<« c^.loned by fi(h, which agitated the water by darting at their prey, fome by the putrefadlion of fifh and other marine arhmals, fome by electricity, and others refer- ring it into a great variety of different caufes. It ap- peared to emit flafhes of light exactly rcfembling thofe cf lightnings only not fo confiderable, but they were Iki frequent that lometimes eight or ten were viuWe al- moft at the fame moment. They were of opinion that they proceeded from fome luminous animal, and upon throwing out a calling net their opinion was confirmed: it brought up a fpecies of the Medufa^ which when it caiotie on board had the appearance of metal violently heated, and emitted a white light : with thefc animals wei*e taken fome very fmall crabs, of three dif- ferent fpecies, each of which gave as much light as a glow-worm, though the creature was not fo large by nine-tenths : upon examination of thefe animals, Mr Banks had the fatisfadion to find that they were all en- tirely new. As feveral articles of the ftock and provifions now bc^ to fall fhort, Captain Cook de.termined to put into de Janeiro, rather than at any port in Urazil os Falk* CAPTAIN COOK'S FISRT VOYAGE. 39 Falkland's Iflands, knowing that it could better fupply them with what was wanted, and making no doubt but that they ihould be well received. On the 8th of November, at day-break, they faw the coaft of Braul, and about ten o'clock they brought to, and fpoke with a fifliing-boat ; the people on boar4 (aid that &t land which they faw, lay to the fouthward of San^o £Jpirito^ but belonged to the captainfhip of that place. Mr Banks and Dr Solander went on board this veflel, in which they found eleven men, nine of whom were Blacks ; they all fifhed with lines, and their frefli cargo, the chief part of which Mr Banks bought, confided of dolphins^ large pelagic fcombers of two kinds, lea bream, and fome of the fifti which in the Weft Indies are called Welfhmen. Mr Banks had taken Spanifli filver with him^ which he imagined to be tht currency of the continent, but to his great furprize the people alked him for Engliih (hillings ; he gave them two which he happened to have about him, and it was not without fome difpute that they took the reft of the money in pifterecns. Their bufmefs feemed to be to eatch large fifti at a good diftance from the fhore, which they falted in bulk, in a place made for that purpoTe in the middle of their boat: of this merchandize they had about two quintals on board, which they offered for about fixteen (hillings, and would probably have fold for half the money. The fre(h fi(h, which was bou^t for about nineteen (hillings and (ixpence, (erved the whole (hip's company ; the fait was not wanted. The fea provifion of thefe fi(hcrmen conliftcd of no- thing more than a caik of water, and a bag of Ca(Iada flour, which they called Farinha de Pm^ or wooden flour, which indeed is a name which very well fuits iti tafte and appearance. Their water calk was large, ass wide as their I oat, and exa^ly fitted a place that was I made for it in the ballaft ; it was impoliibie therefore to draw out ar;y of its contents by a tap, the (ides bein|^ from the bottom to the top, wholly inacceiOble; net- jtheT could any be tsvken out by dipping a velTel in at the hea^ A'^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. hciitl, for an cipsii fufficiently wide for that purpolc woiikl li.ive erulangercd the lofs of great part of it by tic rollinj^ of the velfel : their expedient to get at their v. a- ter, fo iituated, was curious ; when one of them want- eel to drink, he applied to his neiglibour, who accom- panied him to the water cafk witii a hollow cane about three feet long, which was open at both ends ; this he thruft into the cailc through a fmall hole in the top, and then, llopping the upper end with the palm of his Iwnd, drew, it out ; tiie preimre of the air againll the other end keeping in the v/ater which it contained ; to this end the peifon who wanted to drink applied his mouth, and the afliilaiit thtxx taking liis hand from the otjjer, and admitting the air above, the cane itnmedi- atel)r parted with its cciuenls, which the drinker drew oiT till he was fatisfied. They ftood off and on along the lliore till the 1 2th, f.nd fucccfiiveJy faw a remarkable hill near Santo Efpi- rito, I hen Cape St Thomas, and then an ifland juft with- out Cape Frio, which in fome maps is called the illand of Trio, and which hehig high, wuth a hollow in the middle, has the appearance cf two iilands when feen at a diftance. On this day they ftood along the lliore for Rio de Janeiro, and at nine the next morning made fail for the harbour. Captain Cook then lent Mr Hicks, his firft Lieutenant, before in the pinnace, up to the city, to acquaint the Governor, that they put in there to procure water and refrefhments ; and to defire the afliilance of a pilot to bring them into proper an- choring ground. Captain Cook continued to (land up the river, trufting to Mr BcUiflc's draught, pid:)lifhed in the Petit Jt!as marntme. Vol. II. N^ 54, which they found very good, till live o'clock in the evening, ex- pecting the return of his Lieutenant ; and juit as the Captain was about to anchor, above the ifland of Co- bras, which lies before the city, the pinnace came back- without him, having on board a Portuguefe officer, but no pilot. The people in the boat told Captain Cook thiit his Lieutenant was dcts^ined by tlie Viceroy till he tAPTAlN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. *» Hie came on fhore. Soon after a ten-oared boat filled with Ibldiers came up, and rowed round the fhip, with- out any converfation taking place. A fecond boat came up, with feveral of the Viceroy's officers ; they enquired whence the Endeavour came ; what fhe had on board ; her number of men, guns, and deflination. Thefe and many other queftiorls were anfwered with- out equivocation ; when they apologizxd for detaining the Lieutenant, and other fteps they had taken^ plead- ing cuftom. Captain Cook went on (hore on the 14th, and ob- tained leave to purchafe what he wanted, on condition of employing an inhabitant as a fadtor. To this he ob- jeded, but in vain, as well as to fending the foldier in the boat back and forward to the (hip. • They alfo re- fufed to permit Mr Banks and Dr Solander to go up the country to examine the plants, or indeed to leave the fliip. Captain Cook judgmg the Viceroy imagined they were come to trade, he endeavoured to convince him of his miftake, by acquainting him, that they were bound to the fouthward, to obferve the tranfit of Venus ; a very intereiting object to the advancement of navw gation, of which phaenomenon he appeared to be to^ . tally ignorant The Viceroy having ordered, that only the Captain, and fuch failors as were neceflary to be upon duty, fhould be fufFered to land ; they, notwithftanding, at- tempted to come on fliore, but were prevented by the guard-boat ; though feveral of the crew, unknown to thefentinel, ftole out of the cabbin window at midnight, letting thcmfelves down by a rope into the boat, and driving away by the tide till they were out of hearing ; then rowed to fome unfrequented part of the fhore, and made excurfions up the country, though' not fo far as they wiflied. When the Captain complained of thefe reftridions, the only anfwer he obtained was, that he aded in confequeiice of his Mailer's orders. It was now agreed to pref^nt two memorials to the Viceroy : one was written by the Captain, the other by Mr Banks : yol.I.-N»;5, I their • >^\vk 4t CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. their anfwers were no way fatisfadlory. The Captain judging it iiecclFary, in vindication of his compliance, to urge the Viceroy to an adl offeree in the execution of his orders, fent Lieutenant Hicks with a packet, with directions not to allow a guard in his boat. The ofEcer of the guard-boat did not oppofe him by force, but ac- companying the Lieutenant on ihore, went to the Vice- roy, and acquainted him with what had palTed, which induced his Excellency to refufc opening the packet, commanding the Lieutenant to return. He found a foldier as a guard had been put on board the boat in his abfence, and infilled upon the foldier's quitting it. The officer now feized the boat's crew, and conduced them to prifon, under a guard ; and the Lieutenant was fent bacK to the fhip guarded likewife. When Mr Hicks had acquainted the Captain with thefe tranfadions on (here, the latter wrote to the Viceroy, demanding his boat and men, and inclofed that very memorial, which he refufed to receive from the Lieutenant. This exprefs was fent by a petty officer, and the Viceroy promifed to return an anlwer. In the interim, in a fudden guft of wind, the long-boat, with four pipes of rum (by the rope breaking that was thrown her from the fhip) went adrift to windward of her, with a fmall IkifFot Mr Banks's that was faftcned to her. The mif- fortune was dill greater, as the pinnace was on fhore. The yawl was manned immediately, but did not return till next morning, when fhe brought all the people on board. From them Captain Cook learnt that the long- boat having filled with water, they had brought her to a grappling, and quitted her ; and falling in with a reef of rocKson their return, they were compelled to cut adrift the litde boat belonging to Mr Banks. In this fituation the Captain difpatched another letter to the Viceroy, ac- quainting him with the accident, at the fame time de- f iring he would affifl them with a boat to recover their own : this was accompanied with a frefh demand of the pinnace and her crew. His Excellency at length com- plied CAPTAIM COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 4J plied with both the rcqucH: and demand ; and the fame day they fortunately recovered the long-hoat and fkiE A friar in the town having requefted the afliilance of tlicir fin'geon, Dr Solander eafily got admittance in that ci»arader on the 25th, and received many marks of ci- vility from the people. On the 26th, before day-break, Mr Banks aHb found means to elude the vigilance of tlic people in the guard-boat, and got on fhore ; he did not however go into the town, for the principal objcds of his curiofity were to be found in the fields : to him aifo the people behaved with great civility, many of them invited him to their houfcs, and he- bought a por- ker and fome other things of them for the fhip's com- pany ; the porker, which was by no means lean, coft liim eleven fliillings, and he paid fomething lefs thaA two for a Mufcovy duck. On I ft of December, having got their water and other neceflaries on board. Captain Cook fent to the Viceroy for a pilot to carry them to fea, who came ofT to them ; but th^ wind preventing them from getting out, they took on board a plentiful iupply of frelh beer^^ yams, and greens, for the fliip's company. On the 2d, , a Spanifli packet arrived, with letters from Buenoj Ayres for Spain, commanded by Don Antonio de Monte Ne-» Igro y Velafco, who with great politenefs offered to take Itiieir letters to Europe : Captain Cook accepted the fa- Ivour, aad gave him a packet for the Secretary of the |Admiralty, containing copies of all the papers il.at h^d >a{red betwedh him and the Viceroy ; leaving aifo du- )licates with the Viceroy, to be by him forwarded to. iiihon. They did not get under fail till the 7th ; and, when [hey had pafTed the fort, the pilot defired to be dif- iharged. As foon as he was difmilTed, they were left W their guard-boat, which had hovered about them torn the hrfl hour of their being in this place to the laft ; Ind Mr Banks, having been prevented from going ^ore at Rio de Janeiro, availed himfelf of her depar- Jre to examine the neiglibouring iflandsj where, parti- F Z cularly ^ CAPTAIN COOK'3 FIRST VOYAGE. .':!^ ciilarly on one in the mouth of the harbour called Ra* za, he gathered many fpecies of plants, and caught a va* riety of infeds. It is remarkable, that, during the laft three or four days of their laying in this harbour, the air was load- ed with butterflies : they were chielly of one fort, but in fuch numbers that thoufands were in view in every di- redion, and the greatefl part of them above the maft- hcad. I'hey lay here from the 14th of November to the 7th of December, fomething more than three weeks, during which time Mr Monkhoufe, the Surgeon, was on fhore eveiy day to buy provificns ; Dr Solander was on fhore once ; Captain Cook was feveral times on fhore himfelf, and Mr Banks alfo found means to get into the country, notvldiftanding the watch that was fet over them. Rio de Janeiro, or the river of Januarius, was pro- bably fo called from its having been difcovered on the feaft-day of that faint | and the town, which is the ca- pital of the Portuguele dominions in America, derives Its name from the river, which indeed is rather an arm of the fea, for it did not appear to receive any confider-J able ftream of frefli water: it flatids on a plain, clofe to] the fhore, on the weft fide of the bay, at the foot ofj feveral high mountains which rife behind it. It is nei- ther ill defigned nor ill built ; the houfes, in general, | are of ftone, and two ftoqes high ; every houfe having, ^fter the manner of the Portuguele, a little balcony be- fore its windows, and a lattice of wood before the bal« cony. Its circuit is computed to be about three mile.^ : for.it appears to be equal in fize to the largeft country I towns ;n England, Briftol and Liverpcol not accepted; the ftreets are ftraight, and of a convenient breadth, in-| terfr ding each other at right angles ; the greater part, hov ever, lie in a line with the citadel, called St Seb:^'- tian, which ftands on the top of a hill that coixunand^j the. town. It is fupplied with waiter froiji th? neighbouring hills, c APTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE!. 45 by an aquedud:, which is raifed upon two ftorics of arches, and is faid in ibme placev«* to he at a great heiglit from the ground, from which the water is conveyed hy pipes into a fountain in the great fquare that exadlly fronts the Viceroy's palace. At this fountain grcnt num- bers of people arc continually waiting for their turn to draw water ; and the fokliers, who are ported at the Governor's door, find it very difficult to maintain any regularity among them. The water at this fountain however is fo bad, that they»whohad been two months at fea, confined to tliat in their caflis, which was almoft always foul, could not drink it with pleafure. Water of a better quality is laid into fome other part of the town, but they could not learn by what means. The churches are very fine, and there is more reli- gious parade in this place than in any of the Popifh coun- tries in Europe : there is a procefiion of fome parifh every day, with various infignia, all fplendid and coftly in the higheft degree : they beg money, and fay pray* ers in great form, at the corner of every ftreet. While they lay here, one of the churches was rebuild-i ing; and to defray the expence,the.pariflx to which itbe-i longed had leave to beg in proceffion through the wht>lo city once a week, by which very confiderable fums were colleded. At this ceremony, which was performed by night, all the boys of a certain age were obliged to SiU fift, the fons of gendemen not being excufed. Each of thefe boys was drefled in a black cailbck, with a Qiort red cloak, hanging about as low as the waift, and car- ried in his hand a pole about fix or feven feet long, at the end of which was tied a lantern : the number of laa- ternswas generally above two hundred, and the light they gave was fo great, that the people whp faw it frorai the cabbin windows thought the town had been on fire, Tl».e inhabitants, however, may pay their devotions at the fhrine of any laint in the calendar, without waitiag till there is a proceffion ; for before almoft every hqu& there is a little cupboard, furnilhed with a glafs windo## in whicj^ Q^^ pf thefc tutelary powa:* is w«udng to h^ pracioW| .■■J ?jj^m they took to be a prieft, performed much thefeiwi ceremo- nies which M. Bougainville defcribes, and Itippofes to \k an ej^crcifm. When he was introduced into a new part ■■it*(' il *s 54 CAPTAIN cook's FIRST VOYAGE. part of tli€ fhip, or when any thing that he had not feen before caught his attention, he mouted with all his force for fome minutes, without directing his voice either to them or his companions. They eat fome bread and fome beef, but not appa- rently with much pleafure, though fuch part of what was given them as they did not eat they took away with them ; but they would not fwallow a drop either of winj^ or fpirits : they put the glafs to their lips, but, having taned the liquor, they returned it, with ftrong exprelfions of difguil. Curiofity feems to be one of the few pafHons whioi diftinguifh men from brutes ; and of this their guefts appeared to have very little. They went from one part of the {hip to another, and looked i|l;he vaft variety of new objects that every moment pre- fetliled themfelves, without any expreuion either of wonder or pleafure, for the vociferation of the exorciil feemed to be neither* After having been on board about two hours, they cxpreiied a deure to go afhore. A boat was immedi- ately ordered, and Mr Banks thought fit to accompany them : he landed them in fafety, anck conducted them to their companions, among whom he remarked the iame vacant indifference, as in thpfe whi) had been on board ; for as on one fide there appeared no eagernefs to relate, (o on the other there feemed to be no curiofity to hear how they had been received, or what they had feen. In about naif an hour, Mr Banlis returned to the ihip, and the Indians retired from the ihore. On the i6th, early in the morning, Mr Banks and Dr Solander, with their attendants and lervants, and two feamen to aflift in carrying the baggage, accompanied by Mr Monkhoufe the Surgeon, and Mr Green the Aftronomer, fetout from the fhip, with a view to pene- trate as far as they could into the country, and return at night. The hills, when viewed at a diflance, feemed to be partly wood, partly a plain, and above them a bar« rocK. Mr Banks hoped to get through the wood, and made QP doubty but that| beyond it, be fhould, in 4 country CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 5S country which no botanift had ever ) ct vifited, find al- pine plants which would abundantly compenfate his la- bour. They entered the wood at a fmall fandy beach, a little to the weft ward of the watering-place, and con- tinued to afcend the hill, through the pathlefs wildcr- nefs, till three o'clock, before tfiey got a near view of the places which they intended to vifit Soon after they reached what they had taken for a plain | but, to their great difappointment, found it a fwamp, cof robable they m^ht be bewildered till they were overtaken by the next [night J and, not having prepared for a jourij^y of more |lhaQ eight or t^ Jbtoui^s^ they were wholly d^fljtute d^ H 2 pr#- 6o CAPTAIN COOK*9 FIRST VOYAGE. provifions, except a vulture, which tliey liappcncd to ' (hcot while they were out, and which, if equally di- vided, would not afford each of them half a meal ; and they knew not how much more they might fulFer from the cold, as the fnow dill continued to fall, A dreadful teftimony of the feverity of the climate, as it was now the midft of fummer in this part of the world, the 2 ift of December being here the longeft day ; and every thing might juftly be dreaded from a phaenomenon vrhich, in the correfoonding feafon, is unknown even in Norway and Lapland. When the morning dawned, they faw nothing round them, as far as the eye could reacn, but fnow, which feemed to lie as thick upon the trees as upon the gfcHind ; arid the blafts returned fo frequently, and w|^ fuch violence, that they found it impoflible for them to fet out : how long this might laft they knew not, and they had but too much reafon to apprehend that it would confine them in that defolate foreil till they perifhed with hunger and cold. » After having fuffered the mifery and terror of this fi- tuation till fix o'clock in the morning, they conceived fome hope of deliverance by difcovering the place of the fun through the clouds, which ^ere become thin- ner, and began to break away. Their lirft care Was to fee whether the poor wretches whom they had been oblieed to leave among the bufhes were yet alive ; three of the company were difpatched for that purpofe, and very foon afterwards returned with the melancholy news, that they were dead. '^ Notwithftanding the flattering appearance of the fky, the fnow ftill continued to fall lo thick that they could not venture out upon their journey to the fhij) ; but a- bout 8 o'clock a imall regular breeze fprung up, which, with the prevailing influence of the fun, at length clear- ed the air ; and they foon after, with great joy, faw the fnow fall in large ^akes from the trees, a certain fign of an aj^proachibg thaw : they nOw examined rriore criti- cally the flate of their invalids j Brifcoe was ftjll very ^•sr CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. (St ill, but iaifi, that he thought hi nifelf able to walk ; and I Mr Buchari was tnuch iietter than either h* or his friends hjid any reafon to exped. They were now, however, prefied by the calls of hunj^er, to which, after long fai)> jng, every confideration of future good or evil imme- diately gives way. Before they fct forward, therefore, it was unanimoully agreed, that ichey fhould eat their vulture ; the bird was accordingly fkinned, and, « be- ling thought bell to divide it before it was fit to be eatCTi^ lit -was cut into ten portions, and every man cooked his |ownashe thought fir. After this repaid, which fur- lilhed each of them with about three inouthfuls, they )repared to fet out ; but it was ten o'clock before the fnow was fufficienilv gone off to render a march prac» licable. After a walk of about three hours, they were ,'iry iigreeably furprifed to find themfelves upon the )each, and much nearer to the fliip than they nad any reafon to expert. Upon reviewing their traft from the vdlhly they perceived, that, inftead of afcendingthehiil fn a line, io as to penetrate into the country^ they had nade almoft a circle round it. When they came on )oard, they congratulated each other upon their fafety^j vith a joy that no man can feel who has not been ex- pcied to equal danger ; and as Captain Cook h^d fuf- iered great anxiety at their not returning in the eveniQg of the day on which they fet out, he was not wholly without his fhare. On the 1 8th and 1 9th, they were delayed in getting 1 board their wood and water by a fwell : but on the toth, the weather being more moderate, they again fent the boat on Ihore, and Mr Banks and Dr Solander went [nit. They landed in the bottoin of tlie bay, and while the people in 'he (liip were employ* id in cutting Jrooins, they purfued their great object, the improve- 'lent of natural knowledge, with fuccefs, colle(SJ:ing: lany fhells ami plants which hitherto have been altc^^ r jether unknown : they came on board to dinner^ "P^^^ fterwards wentagair^on (hore to vifit an Indian tfi^fc^^ feh fpme of the people had reported to lie stbour twof 62 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. miks tip the country. They found the dilhnce not more than by the account, and they approached it by what appeared to be the common road, yet they 'vere above an hour in getting thither, for they were f*c. qucntly up to the knees in mud ; when they got with. in a fmall diflance, two of the people came out to meet | them, with fuch ftate as they could aflume ; when they joined them, they began to nollow as they had done on board the fliip, without addrefling themlelvcs -ndier to | ihe ftrangeis or their companions : and having continu- ed this flbrange vociferation fome time,, they conduced | them to the town. It was fituated on a dry knoll, ci i fmali hiQ, covered with wood, none of which icemal to have been cleared away, and coniifted of about twelve or fourteen hovels, of the moft rude and inartificial | ftru£iurc that cati be imagined. They were nothing ' more than a few poles fet up fo as to incline towardi | each other, and meet at the top, forming a kind of a cone, like fome of our bee-hives : on the weather fide tJiey were covered with a few boughs, and a little grafs; and on the lee fide about one eighth of the circle wai left open, both for a door and a fire place ; zftidof this kind were the huts that had beenfeen in St Vincent'i bay, in one of, which the embers of a fire were ftill reJ maining. Furniture they had none ; a little grafs, which \ty round the infide of thehovel,ferved both for chairs and beds; and of all the utenfils which neceifity and ingenuity have concurred to produce among other fa- vage nations, they faw only a bafket to carry in the hand, a fatchei to hang at the back, and the bladder of ^\mc beaft to hold water, which the natives driokl dtrough a hole dut is made near the top for that pur* pofe. The inhabitants of tins town were a fmall tribe, not] fliore than fifty in acrmber, of both fexcs and of every j age. Tiieir ^iibur refembles that of the mil J)f iroa ttised with t>il, and they have long black hair : the { meo are large, but clumfiiy biih 3 their flature is from five :.i CAPTAIN COOlL'f FIRST VOYAGE. ^3 J^vc feet eight to five feet ten ; the women are much lefs, few of them being more than five feet high. Thcic whole apparel confifts of the fkin of a guanicoe, or feal, which is thrown over their ihoi|^ers. exactly in the I (iate in which it came firom the animal s back ; a piece 1 of the fame Ikin, which is drawn over their feet, and gathered about the ancles like a purfe, and a fmall flap, which is worn by the women as a fuccedaneum for a fig-leaf. The men wear their cloak open, the women [tie it about their waift with a thong. But although they are content to be naked, they are very ambiticiQ3 to be fine. Their faces were painted in various forms: the region of the eye was in general white, and the reft )f the face adorned with horizontal (Ireaks of red and )lack ; yet fcarcely any two were exactly alike. This iecoration feems to be more profufe and elaborate up- m particular occalions, for the two gentlemen who in*^ roduced Mr Banks and the Do<^or into the town, were ilmoil covered with ftreaks of black in all diredions, jTo as to make a very ftriking appearance. Both mea ind women wore bracelets of mch beads as they coidd lake themfelves of fmall iiiells or bones ^ the womc!! )oth upon their wriils and ancles, the men upon their drifts only ; but to compenfate for the want of brace- jets on their legs, they wore a kind of fillet of brown rorfted round their heads. They feemed to fet a par- Bcuiar value upon any thing that was red, and prefer- red beads even to a knife or a hatchet. Their language in general is guttural, and they ex- )refs fome of their words by a iou|id exa that Mr Baaks killed no Ief« than 62 in one day ; and fhat is more remarkable, he caught two foreft flics, )th of them of the fame fpecies, but different from ly that have hitherto been defcribed ; thefe probably ^longed to the birds, and came with them from the |nd, which they judged to be at a great diftance. Mr inks alfo, about this time, found a large cuttle-fifli, [hich had been juft killed by the birds, floating in a fangled condition upon the water ; it was very differ- ^t from the cuttle-fiflies that are found in the European, p ; for its arms, inftead of fuckers, were fumifhed to ^ double row of very iharp talons, which refenv-. ' ■ ^ \M 70 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. bled thofeof a cat, and, like them, were retradable into a {heath of fkln, from which they might be thruft at ipleafurc. Of this cuttle-fifh they made one of the heft Ibups they had ever tailed. The albatrofTes now beg;an to leaVe them, and after the 8th there was not one to be feen. They continued their courfe without any memorable event tillthe 24th, when fome of the people who were upon the watch in I the night, reported that they iaw a log of wood pafs by the fliip ; and that the fea, which was rather rough, be- came fuddenly as fmooth ?s a mill-pond. It was a ge- neral opinion, that there was land to windward; but Captain C40ok did not think hinifelf at liberty to fearch for what he was not ilire to fmd ; though he judged they were not far from the iflands that were difcovered ' by Quiros in 1606. On the 25th, about noon, one of the marines, a young fellow about twenty, was placed as ccntry at tiie cabbin door ; while he was upon this duty, one of Cap*l tain Cook's fervants was at the fame place preparing tol cut a piece of feal-fki^ into tobacco-pouches : he had! promifed one to feveral of the men, but had refufed one to this young fellow, though he had afked him feverall times ; upon which he jocularly threatened to fteal one,[ if it fhould be in his power. It happened that the fer»i vant being called haftily away, gave the fkin in chargcj to the centinel, without regarding what had paffed be- tween them. The centinel immediately fecured a piece! of the fkin, which the other miffing at his return, grewl angry ; but after fome altercation, contented himfelfj with taking it away, declaring, that, for fo trifling an afJ fair, he would not complain of him to the officers. But! it happened that one 01 his fellow foldiers, over-hearingj the difpute, came to the knowledge of what had hap-l pened, and told it to the reft ; who, taking it into theirl heads to ftand up for the honour of their corps, reproach*! cd the offender with great bitternefs, and reviled him in] the moft opprobrious terms ; they exaggerated his o&j fence into a crim^ of the deepeft dye j they faid it wjts al CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 7' tlieft by a centry when he was upon duty, and of a thing I that had been committed to his truft ; they declared it a difgrace to aftociate with him ; and the Serjeant, in par- ticular, faid that, if the perfon from whom thefkin had been ftolen would not complain, he would complain himfelf ; for that his honour would fufFer if the offender was not puniftied. From the feoffs and reproaches of thefemen of honour, the poor young fellow retired to his hammock in an agony of confulion and (hame. The Serjeant foon after went to him, and ordered him to follow him to the deck : he obeyed without reply ; but it being in the dufk of the evening, he flipped from the Serjeant and went forward : he was ken by fome of the people, who thought he was gone to the head ; but a |i'earch being made for him afterwards, it was found that le had thrown liimfelf overboard ; and Captain Cook was then firfl made acquainted with the theft and- its' [circumftances. The lofs of this man was the more regretted, as he Iwas remarkably quiet and induftrious, and as the very ladion that put an end to his life was a proof of an inge- Inuous mind ; for to fuch only difgrace is infupportablc. On Tuefday the 4th of April, about ten o clock ia the morning, Mr Banks's fervant, Peter Brifcoe, difco- rered land, bearing fouth, at the diftance of about thre$ )r four leagues. Captain Cook immediately hauled up for it, and found it to be an ifland of an oval form, with lagoon in the middle, which occupied much the larger )art of it ; the border of land which circumfcribes the [agoon is in many places very low and narrow, particu- larly on the fouth fide, where it confifts principally of a ;ach or reef of rocks: it has the fame appearance alfo in [hree places on the north fide ; fo that, the firm land )eing disjoined, the whole looks like many illands co- hered with wood. On the weft end of the illand is a [arge tree, or dump of trees, that in appearance refem- )lc8 a tower ; and about th : middle are two cocoa-nut [rees, which rife above all the reft, and, as they camq lear to the ifland, appeared like a flag. They approach- e4 ^» CAPTAIN COOX'3 FIRST VOYAGE. edit on tbc north fide, and though they came within a mile, they found no bottom with 130 fathom of lino, n(^r did there appear to he any anchorage about it. The whole is covered with trees of different verdure, but they could diftinp:uilh none, even with their glalfes. CTcccpt cocoa-nuts and palm-nuts, lliey faw feveral of ' the natives upon the (hore, and counted four and twen- ty. They appealed to be tall, and to have heads re- markable large ; perha ^s they had fomething wound round them which they could not diilinguilh ; they were of a copper colour, and had long black hair. Eleven of them walked along the beach abreaft of the ihip, with poles or pikes in their hands, which ^cached twice ias high as thcmfelves : while they walked on the beach they feemed to be naked ; but foon after they retired, which they did as foon as the fliip had paffed the ifland, they covered thcmfelves with fomething that • made them appear of a light colour. Their habitations were under fbme clumps of palm-nut trees, which at a diftance appeared like high \^ mnd ; and to them, who for a long tirtie had feen nothing but water and , iliy, except the dreary hills of Terra del Fuego, thefc groves feemed a terreftrial paradife. To this fpot, which lies in latitude 1 8 d. 47 m. S. and longitude j| 139 d. 28 m. W. they gave the name of Lagoon Island. About one o'clock they made fail to the weftward, ' and about half an hour after three they faw land again to the N.W. They got up with it at funfet, and it proved to be a low woody ifland, of a circular form, and not much above a mile in compafs. They difcovered no inh£^||^ts, nor could they diftinguirfi any cocoa-nut trees'^ though they were within half a mile of thelhore. The land, however, was covered with verdure of many hues. It lies in latitude 1 8 d. 3 c m, S. and longitude ' 139 d. 48 m. W. and is diftant from Lagoon Ifland, in the diredion of N. 62 W. about feven leagues. They called it Thrumb-Cap. They weat on with a fine trade-wind and pleafant weather, :-k: CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 73 weatl'.cr, and on the 5t]i, abniit three hi the afternoon, tJiey clircoveix'tl laiul to the wclhvanl. It proved to be a low Ifiimd, ofnuicli grcate rextcnt than cither of thofe that they had ibcn before, behig about ten or twelve leagues in compafs. Several of the Ihip's company re- mained at the maft-head the whole evening, admiring its extraordinary figure : it was fliapcd exactly like a bov/, the arch and cord of which were land, and the fpace between them water ; the cord was a flat beach, with- out any figns of vegetation, having nothing upon it but heaps of lea weed, which lay in dKFerent ridges, as higher or lower tides Iiad left them. It appeared to be about ihree or four leagues long, and not more than two hundred yards wide; but as a horizontal plain is al- ways leen in perfpeclive, and greatly fore-fhortened, it is certainly much wider than it appeared : the horns, or extremities of the bow, were two large tufts of cocoa-nut trees ; and much the greater part of the arch was covered with trees of different height, figure, arid hue ; in fome parts, however, it was naked and low like the cord : fome of them thouglit they difcovered openings through the cord, into the pool, or lake, that was included between that and the bow ; but whether there were or were not fuch openings is uncertain. They failed abreaft of the low beach, or bow- firing, within lefs than a league of the fliore, till funfet, and they then judged themfelves to be about half way be- tween the two horns : here they brought to, and found- ed, but found no bo^^tom with one hundred and thirty fathom ; and, as it is dark almoft inllantly after funfet in thefe latitudes, they fuddenly loft fight of the land, and making fail again, before the line was well hauled ill, they fleered by the found of the breakers, which were diflindtly heard till they got clear of the coafl* They knew this ifiand to be inhabited, by fmoke which they faw in different parts of it, and they gave it the name of Bow Island. Mr Gore, the Second Lieutenant, faid, after they had failed by the ifiand, that I he had.feen feveral of the natives, under the firfl clump Vol.1.— N° a. . K of 74 CAPTAIN COOIC'8 FLSRT VOYAGE. fly of trees, from the deck ; that he had diftinguiftied their houfcs, and 'ken feveral canoes hauled up under the fhade; but in this he was more fortunate than any other pcrfon on board. On the next day, Thurfday the 6th, about noon, they faw land again to the weft ward, and came up with it auout three. It appeared to be two iflands, or rather groups of iflands, extending from N. W. by N. to S. E, by S. about nine leagues. Of thefe, the two largeil were feparated from each other by a channel of about lialf a mile bread, and were fevcrally furrounded by fmaller iflands, to which they were jomed by reefs that lay under water. Thefe iflands were long narrow ftripes of land, ranging in all diredlions, fome of them ten miles or upwards in length, but none more than a quarter of a mile broad, and upon all of them there were trees of various kinds, particularly the cocoa-nut. The fouth-eaftermoft of them lies in the latitude of i8 d. 12 m. S. and longitu«le 142 d. 42 m. W. and at the diftance of twenty-live leagues, in the direction of W. f N. from the weft end of Bow Ifland. They ranged along the S. W. fide of this ifland, and hauled into a bay which lies to the N. W. of the fouthermoft point of the Group, where there was a Imooth fea, and the appearance of anchorage, without muchfurf on the fhore. l^hey founded, but found no bottopi/with one hundred fathom, at the diftance of no more than three quarters of a mile from the beach', and Captain Cook did not think it prudent to go nearer. While this was doing, fcvcral of the inhabitants af- fembled upon the fliore, and fome came out in their canoes as far as the reefs, but would not pafs them : when they faw this, they ranged, with an eafy fail, a- longthe fhore ; but juft as they were paflTmg the end of the ifland, fix men, who had for fome time kept abreaft of the (hipf, fuddenly launched two canoes with great quicknefs and dexterity, and three of them getting into each, they put off, as was imagined, with a defign to come on board i the fhip was' therefore brought to, but they, CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 75 their r the any Ltant8 af- in their fs them : y fail, a- be end of )t abreaft rith great ttinginto defign to ht to, but they, they, like their felluv^c, (lopped at tlic reef; they did not however immediately make iail, as they ohferved two mellengers difpatched to them from the other ca- noes, which were of a much larger fize: they perceiv- ed that thefe meffL-ngcrs made great expedition, wa- ding and fwimming along the reef; at length they met, and the men on board the canoes making no difpoii- tions to pafs the reef, after having received the menage, they judged that they had refolved to come no farther: alter waiting, therefore, fome little time longer, they flood off; but when they were got about two or three miles from the (hore, they perceived fbme of tlie na- tives following them in a canoe with a fail ; they did not, however tldnk it worth while to wait for her, and though Ihe had paifed the reef, file foon after gave over the cliace. According to the heft judgment that they could fdrni of the people when they were neareft the fhore, they were anout our fizc, and well-made. They were of a brown complexion, and appeared to be naked ; theif hair, v;hich was black, was confined by a fillet that went, round the head, and fluck out behind like a bufh^ j The greatefl part of them carried in their hands two weaptms; one of them was a (lender pole, from ^en to fourteen feet long, on one end of wliich was a fmall knob, not unlike the point of a fpear; the other was abouj four feet long, and fhapcd like a paddle, and poflibly rtiight i be ib, for fome of their canoes were very fmall : thofe which they faw them launch feemed not intended to carry more than tlie three men that got into them : they faw others that had on board fix or feven men, and one of them hoifled a fail w^hich did not feem to I reach more than fix feet above the gunwale of the boat, and which, upon the falling of a flight fhower, was taken down and converted into an awning or tilt The [canoe which followed them to fea hoifled a fail not ui>* [like an Englifh lug-fail, and almoft as lofty as an Eng* llilh boat of the fame fize would have carried. The people, who kept abreaft of the ftiip on' the K z beach, !'^*^ih^ 75 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. beach, made many fignals; but whether they were in- tended to fripjiten them away, or invite them on fliore, it is not eafy to d^^termine : they returned them by wav- ing their hats and (I'Outing, and they rej)Hed by fliout- ing agai'^. Tlicy did not put their diipolition to the telt, by attemptinp; to land ; hecaufc, as the ifland was inconnderablc, and ..s they wanted nothing that it could afford, tjiey thought it imprudent as well as cniel to rifk a conted, in wiiicli the natives muft have fuffered by their fupcriority, merely to grrtify an idle curiofity ; eipecially as they expcded foon to fall in with the ifland where they had been dire£led to make their aftronomi- cal obfervation, the inhabitants of which would proba- bly admit Uiem without oppofition, as they were al-'|| ready acquainted with tljelr llrength, and might alfo ^ procure them a ready and peaceable reception among the neighbouring people, if they fliould delire it. 1 o ihefe ifjands they gave the nam.e of The Groups. On the 7th, about half an hour after fix in the morn- ing, being juft at day-break, they difcovered another ifland to the northward, which they judged to be about four miles in circumference. The land lay very low, and there was a piece of water in the middleof it ; there feemed to be fome wood upon it, and it looked greea and pleafant ; but they faw neither cocoa trees nor in- habitants : it abounded however v/ith birds, and they | therefore gave it the name of Bird-Island. On the 8th, about two o'clock in the ;.\fternoon, they] faw land to the north ward, and about funf ^t came abreail | of it, at about the difl:ance of two league?. It appeared! to be a double range of low woody iflancs joined toge- ther by reefs, fo as to form one ifland, in the form of an I ellipfis or oval, with a lake in the middle of it. I'kl frnall iflands and reefs that circumfcribe the lake have the appearance of a chain, and they therefore gave it the name of Chain-Island. Its length feemed toj be about five leagues, in the diredion of N. \V. andl S. E. and its breadth about five miles. The trees upon! it appeared to be large, and they faw fmoke riling iJ CAPTAIN COQK's FIRST VOYAGE. 11 different parts c f it from among them, a certain fign that it was inhabited. On the I oth, having had a tempeftuous night with thunder and rain, the weather was hazy till about nine o'clock in the morning, when it cleared up, and they faw the ifland to which Captain Wallis, who firft dit covered it, gave the name of (3rnahurgh ifland, called by the. natives Maitea^ bearing N. W. by W. diflant about live leagues. It is a high round ifland, not above a league in circuit ; in fome parts it is covered with trees, and in others a naked rock, in this diredlion it looked like a high crown'd hat; but when it bears North, the top of it has more the appearance of the roof of a houfe. Arrival of tha Endeavour at Otaheite^ or King George the Third's Ifland, ^c, ^c. [It ''s acknowledged on all hands, that a narrative written in the first ijcrfon, by bringing the Adventurer and the Reader nearer together, without the inteiruption of a ftranger, more ftrongly excites an intereft, and confequcntly affords more entertainment : The occui rencea in thcfc voyages becoming highly intertfting and curious, and as^ Captain Cook is engaged in many interviews and tranfadtions with the Mativt* of the in.inds he vilitcd, it is therefore now judged proper to giv, the narrative in bis perfon.J ABOUT one o'clock, on Monday the loth of April, foine of the people who were looking out for the ifland to which we were bound, faid they faw \mA ahead, in that part of the horizon where it was ex- peded to appear ; but it was fo faint that, whether there was land in figlit or not, remained a matter of difpute till %t- wmmmmmm fit CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE* till fuviret. The next morning, however, at fix o'clock, we were convinced that thofe who faid they had dif- CQvered land, were not miftaken ; it appeared to be ve- ry high and mountainous, extending from W. by S. i S. to vV. by N. f N. and wc knew it to be the lame that •Captain Wallis had called King George the IIL's Ifland. We were delayed in our apj^roach to it by light airs and calms, fo tnat in the morning of the 1 2th wc were but little nearer than we had been the night before ; but about feven a breeze fprun;.^ up, and before eleven fe- veral canoes were i'een mak'.ng towards the (hip : there were but few of them, however, that would come near; and the people i:i thofe that did, could not be perfuad- ed to come on board. In every canoe there were young plantains, and branches of a tree which the Indians call E'Midho ; thcfc, a:> wc afterwards learnt, were brought as tokens of peace and amity, and the people in one of the canoes handed them up the Ihip's fide, making fig- nals at the fame time with great eurneflncrs, which we did not immediately undcrftand ; at length we guciTed that they wiilied thefe fymbols Ihoiild be placed in fome confpicuous part of the fhip ; we, therefore, immediate- ly (luck thic n among the rigging, at which they ex- preflbd the greatcll latisfa£tion. We then purchafed their cargoes, conilfting of cocoa-nuts, and various kinds of fruit, which after our long voyage were very ac- ceptable. We ftood on with an eafy fail all night, with fcv. "id- ings from 22 fathom to 1 2, and nbout fcven o'clock in the morning we came to an anchor in 13 fatliom, in Port-royal bay, called by the natives Matavai, We were immediately furrounded by the natives in their canoes, who gave us cocoa-nuts, fruit refembling apples, bread- fruit, and fome fmall filhe^, in exchange for beads and other trifles. Tliey had with them a pig, which tliey would not part with for any thing but a hatchet, and therefore we refufed to purchafe it ; becaufe, if we gave them a hatcht t for a pig now, wc knew they would never afterwards fell one for lefs, and wc could not j^fTord to buy CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 79 'clock, id dif. be ve- )y S. i ne that Ifland. rht airs re were :e ; but veu le- ► : there le near ; >erluad- : young ans call brought I one of jng iig- hich we gucfled in fome buy as many as it was probable we fhould want at that price. The br;:ad-fruir gro^A s on a tree that is about the fize of a middling oak : its leaves are frequently a foot and an half long, of au oblong (hape, deeply iuiuated like thofe of the fig- tree, which they rcfemble in conliftence and colour, and in the exuding of a white milky juice upon being broken. The fruit is about the (ize and {hape of a child's head, and the furface is reticulated not much unlike a truffle : it is covered with a thin flcin, and has a core about as big as the handle of a fmall knife : the eatable part lies between the Ikin and the core ; it is as white as fnow, and fomewhat of the con- fidence of new bread : it rauft be roafted before it is eaten, being fir ft divided into three or four parts : its tafle is inlipid, with a flight fweetnefs fomewhat refem- hllng that of the crumb of wheateu bread mixed with a Jerufalem artichoke. Among others who came off to the fhip was an el- derly man, whofe name, as we learnt afterwards, was OwFiAW, and who was immediately known to Mr Gore, and feveral others who had been hen with Capt. Wallis ; as I was informed that he had been very ufeml to them, I took him on board the Ihip v/ith fome others, and was particularly attentive to gratify him as 1 hoped he might alfo be ufeful to us. As our ftay here was not likely to be very fliort, and as it was ncceifary that the merchnndife which we had brought for traffic with the natives fliould not dimi- nilli in its value, which it would certainly have done, if every perfon had been left at liberty to give what he pleared for fuch things as he (hould purchafe; at the lame time that confufion and quarrels muft necefiarily have arifen from there being no flandard at market : I drew up the following rules, ar.d ordered thai they ilioul J be pundually obferved. Hu/es ^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. Rules to he ohfervedhy every perfon in or belonging to his Mijefly^s hark t\. Endtnvoury* for the belter eJlahltfAng a regular and uniform trade for provifton, ^c. with the inhabitants of George* s Ifiand. I. To endeavour, by every fair means, to cultivate a frlendfliip with the natives ; and to treat them with all imaginable huma- nity. n. A proper perfon, or perfons, will be sppoihted to trade v/Jth the natives for all manner of provifions, fruir, and other produc- tions of the earth \ and no officer or fearnan, or other perfon be- longing to the (hip, excepting fuch as are fo appointed, fliall trade or offer to trade for any fort of provifion, fruit, or other produc- tions of the earth, unleis they have leave fo to do. « III. Every perfon employed on fliore, on any duty whatfoever, IS ftriccafion 86 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. occafion that had before been expreflctl by the Chief. The beads were now returned, with an inflexible refolu- tion not to accept them ; and the cloth was, with the fame pertinacity, forced upon Dr Solander, as a recompence for the injury that had been done him. He could not avoid accepting the cloth, but infilled in his turn upon giving a new prcfcnt of beatis to the woman. It will not perhaps be ealy to account for all the fteps tV it were taken in the recovery of this glafs and fnufl'-i)ox ; but this cannot be thought llrange, confidering that die (bene of adlion was among a people whofe language, policy, and coiu^.eQions, arc even now but imperfc<3:ly known ; upon the wliole, however, they fiiow an in- telligence and influence which wouLi do honour to any fyftem of government, however regular and improved. In the evening, about lix o'clock, we returned to the and began to eredt our fort. While fome were employ- ed in throwing up intrenchments, others were bufy in cutting pickets and fafcines, which the natives, who foon gathered round us as they nad been ufed to do, j were fo far from hindering, that many of them volun- tarily aflifted us, bringing the pickets and fafcines from , the wood where they had been cut, with great alacrity ;,j CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 91 . we had indeed been fo rcriipulous of invading their property, th.jt "vvc purcl-.c-fcd every Hake which was ufed upon tins occafion, and cut down no tree till we had firft obtained their coniejit. The foil where we con- IhuiHied our fort was fandy, and this made it neceflary to itrengthen the intrench inents with wood ; three fides were to he fortified in this manner ; the fourtli was bounded by a river, upon the banks of which I pro- pofed to place a proper number of water-calks. This day we ferved pork to tlie fhip's company for tlie firft time, and the Indians brought down fo much bread- fruit and cocoa-nuts, that we found it neceflary to fend away part of them unbouglit, and to acquaint them, by figns, that we fhould want no more lor two days to come. Ev ry thing was purchafed this day with beads: a fmgle bead, as big as a pea, being the purchafe of five orTi;£ cocoa-nuts, and as many cf the bread-fruit. Mr Banks's tent was got up before niglit within the works, and he flept on ih ore for the firil time. Proper ceni- tries were placed round it, but no Indian attempted to approach it the whole niglit. 'llie next morning, our friend Tubourai Tamaide made Mr Banks a vitit at the tent, and brought with him not only his wife and family, bui the roof of a [houfe, and feveral materials for fctting it up, with furni- ture and implements of various kinds, intending, as we . 'underftood him, to take up his relidence in our neigh- |bourhood : this inftance of his confidence and good-will ;ave us great pleafure, aiid we determined to ftrength- 'n his attachment to us by every means in our power; 'joon after his arrival, he took Mr Banks by the hand, md leading him out of the line, fignified that he fliould iccompany him into the woods. Mr Banks readily confcnted, and having walked with him about a quar- [cr of a mile, they arrived at a kind of awning which he ^ad already let up, and which feemed to be his occafion- [1 habitation. Here he unfolded a bundle of his coun» fy cloth, and taking out tw^o garments, one of red cloth, \M the other of very neat matting, he clothed Mr M z Bank* r^fT 9* CAPTAIN COOK'8 FISRT VOYAGE. Banks in them, and without any other cerenlony, im- mediately conducted him back to the tent. His atten- dants foon after brought him fome pork and bread- fruit, which he eat, dipping his meat into fah water in- ftead of fauce : after his meal he retired to Mr Banks's bed and (lept about an Iiour. In the afternoon, his wife Tomio brought to the tent a young man about two and twenty years of age, of a very comely appearance,whom they both fecmed to acknowledge as their fon, though we afterwards difcovered that he was not fo. In the evening, this young man and another Chief, who had alfo paid us a vifit, went away to the weft ward, but Tubourai Tamaide and his wife returned to the awn- ing in the Ikirts of the wood. Our Surgeon, Mr Monkhoufe, having walked out this evening, reported that he had feen the body of the man who had been ihot at the tents, which he laid was wrapped in cloth, and placed on a kind of bier, fup- ported by ftakes, undej a roof that feemed to have been let up for thepurpofo: that near it were depofited fome inftruments of war, and other things, which he would Earticularly have examined but for the ftench of the ody, which was intolerable. He faid, that he faw alfo two more flieds of the fame kind, in one of which were the bones of a human body that had lain till they were quite dry. We difcovered afterwards, that this was the way in which they ufually difpofed of their dead. A kind of market now began to be kept juft without the lines, and was plentifully fupplied with every thing | but pork. Tubourai Tamaide was our conftant gueft, imitating our manners, even to the ufmg of a kniite and fork, which he did very handily. As my cu.iolity was excited by Mr Monkhoufe's ac- count of the lituation of the man who had been (hot, 1 took an opportunity to go with fome others to fee it. I foimd the Ihed under which his body lay, clofe by the houfe in which he refided when he was alive, fome others being not more than ten yards diftant j it wa« about CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. n about fifteen feet long, and eleven broad, and of a pro- portionable height : one end was wholly open, and the other end, and the two fides, were partly enclofed with a kind of wicker work. The bier on which the corps was depofited, was a frame of wood like that in which the fea beds, called cotts, are placed, with a matted bot- tom, and fup ported by four ports, at the height of about live feet from the ground. The body was covered firft with a matt, and then with white cloth ; by the fide of it lay a wooden mace, one of their weapons of war, and near the head of it, which lay next to the clofe end of the filed, lay two cocoa nut-fhells, fuch as are fometimes ufed to carry water in ; .at the other end a bunch of green leaves, with fome dried twigs, all tied together, were ftuck in the ground, by which lay a ftone about as big as a cocoa nut : near thefe lay one of the yoUng plantain trees, which are ufed for emblems of peace, and rlofe by it a ftone ax. At the open end of the fhed alfo hung, in feveral ftrings, a^great number of palm- nuts, and without the fhed, was ftuck upright m the ground, the ftem of a plantain tree about hve feet high, upon the top of which was placed a cocoa-nut fhell rull .- of frefh water : againft the fide of one of the [^ofts hung a fmall bag, containing a few pieces of bread-fruit ready roafted, which #ere not all put in at the fame time, for fome of them v/ere frefh, and others ftale. I took no- tice that feveral of the natives obferved us with a mix- ture of folicitude and jcaloufy in their countenances, and by their geftures exprefTed uneafinefs when we went near the body, ftanding themfelves at a little diftancc while we were making our examination, and appearing to be pleafed when we came away. Our refidence on fhore would by no means have been difagreeable if we had not been inceffantiy tormented by the flies, which, among other milbhief, made it al- inoft impollible for Mr Parkinfon, Mr Banks's natural hiftory painter, to work ; for they not only covered his Aibjed lb as that no part of its furface could be feen, but even eat the colour off the paper as faft as he could lay- it 94 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. It on. We had recourfe to mufquito nets and fly-traps, which, though they made the hiconvenience tolerable, were very far from removing it. On the 22d,Toot:\hah gave us a rpecimen of the mu- fic of this country j four perfons performed upon flutes which had only two Hops, and therefore could not found more than four notes, by halftones : they were founded like our German flutes, except that the per- former, inftead of applying it to his mouth, blew into it with one noftril, while he (lopped the other with his thumb : to thefe inflruments four other perfons fung, and kept very good time ; but only one tune was play- cd during the whole concert. Several of the natives brouglit us axes, which they had received from on board the Dolphin, to grind niul repair ; but among others, there was one which became the fubje<£l of much fpeculation, as it appeared to bo French : after much enquiry, we learnt that a fhip had been here between our arrival and the departure of the Dolphin, which \\e then conjedured to have been a Spaniard, but now know to have been the Boudeufe, commanded by M. Bongainville. On the 24th, Mr Bar.ks and Dr Solander examined the country for I'everal miles along the Ihore to the eall- ward : for about two miles it was flat«and fertile ; after that the hills ftretched quite to the water's edge, and a little farther ran cut into the fea, fo that they were obli- ged to climb over them. Thefe hills, which were bar- ren, continued for about three miles more, and then te^ minated in a large plain, which was full of good houfes, and people who appeared to lirve in great affluence. In this place there was a river, much more coniiderable than that at our fort, which ilfued from a deep and beau^ tiful valley, and, where our travellers crofTed it, though at fome diftance from the fea, was near one hundred yards wide. About a mile beyond this river the coun- try became again barren, the rocks every where projed- ing into the lea, for which rcafon they relblved to re- turn. Juft as they had formed this refolution, one of die CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE, 9S tlie natives ofl'ercd them rcfrellimcnt, wliich they ac- cepted. They li)und this man to be of a kind that has been deferihetl by various authors, as mixed with many nations, but dilliiKin. Irom them all. His Ikin was of a (lead white, without the leall appearance ot w4iat is cal- led ccmplexion, though fome parts of his body were in a fmali degree lels whiter than othars : his hair, eye- brows, and beard w'ere as white as liis {km ; his eyes appeared as if they were bloodihot, and he fcemcd to be very lhort-righte- Keved as in the beft regulated frontier in Europe. We continued our vigilance the next day, though wc had no particular reafon to think it neceflary ; but about ten o'clock in the morning, Tomio came running to the tents, with a mixture of grief and fear in her coun- tenance, and taking Mr Banks, to whom they applied in every emergency and diftrefs, by the arm, intimated that Tubourai Tamaide was dying, in confequeiice of ibmething which cur people had given him to eat, and that he miift inftantly go with her to his houfe. Mr Banks fet out without delay, and found his Indian friend leaning his head againft a poft, in an attitude of the iitmoft languor and defpondency; the people about him intimated that he had been vomiting, and brought out a leaf folded up with great care, which they Imd contained fome of the poifon, by the deletrious effects #f which be was now dying. Mr Banks haftily open-* 9^. CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. IC| ed the leaf, and, upon examining Its contents, found theni to be no other than a chew of tobacco, which the Chief had begged of fome of our people, and which they had indiicreetly given him : he had obfcrved that they kept it long in the mouth, and being defirous of doing the fame, he had chewed it to powder, and fwal- lowed the fpittle. During the exammation of the leaf and its contents, he looked up at Mr Banks with the moft piteous afpedl, and intimated that he had but a very fliort time to live. Mr Banks, however, being now mafter of his difeafe, directed him to drink plen- tifully of cocoa-nut milk, which, in a (hort time, put aa end to his ficknefsand apprehenfions, and he fpent the day at the fort with that uncommon flow of checrful- nels and good-humour, which is always produced by a fudden and uncxpedled relief from paiii either of body or mind. Captain Wallis having brought home one of the adzes which thefe people, having no metal of any kind, make of ftone, Mr Stevens, the Secretary to the Admiralty, rrocured one to be made of iron in imitation of it, which brought out with me, to fhew how much we excelled in making tools after their own fafliion : this I had not yet produced, as it never happened to come into my mind. But on the firft of May, Tootahah coming on board about ten o'clock in the forenoon, exprcncd a great curiofity to fee the contents of every cheft and drawer that was in mycabbin; as I always made a point of gratifying him, I opened them immediately, and having taken a fancy to Inany things that he faw, and colledled them togetner, he at laft happened to caft his eye upon this adze ; he inftantly fnatched it up with the greateft eagernefs, and putting away every thing which he had before fele^led, he a(ked me whether I would let him have that : I readily confented : and, as if he was afraid I (houhUepent, he carried it off imme- diately in a tranfport of joy, without mrjcing any other requeft, which, whatever h^d beea our liberality, was ieldom the cafer About ;o4 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. About noon, a Chief, who h*d dined with nUe a few Jays before, accompanied by fome of his women, cam? on board alone : I had observed that he was fed by bis women, buj I made no doubt, that upon occ^fiou he would condefcend to feed himfcif : in this, however, I found myfelf miftaken. When mv noble gueft was ieated, and the dinner upon the table, I helped him to (jome vitals : as I obferved that he did not immediately begin his meal, I preffed him to eat : but he ftill con" tinued to (it motionlefs like a ftatue, without a^empt- ing to put a fmgle morficl into his mouth, aod wouW (certainly have gone without his dinner, if one of the feiv ¥ant$ had not fgd him* In the afternoou dity, our Maflcr, Mr Mol- lineux, and Mr Greerf, went in the pinnace to the eaft- ward, on the 8th, early in the mornmg, to fee whether they could procure any hogs or poultry in that part of the country : they proceeded in that dirsdVion twenty miles ; but though they f^w many hogs, and one tur- tle, they could not purchafe either at any price : the people every where told them, that they all belonged to Tootahah, and that they could fell none of them without his permilTion. We now began to think that this man was indeed a great Prince ; for an influence {o extenfive and ablblute could be acquired by no other. And we afterwards found that he adminiftcred the go-: vernment of this part of the ifland, as fovereign, for a I minor whom we never faw all the time that, we w^ere Voi. I.— N° 3. P upon 114 CAPTAIN COOK'S FISRT VOYAGE. upon it. When Mr Green returned from this expedi- tion, he laid he had (ccn a tree of a frze which he was afraid to relate, it being; no lefs than fixty yards in cir- cumference ; but Mr Banks and Dr Solander foon ex- plained to him, that it was a fpecies of the fig, the nranchcs of which, bending down, take fie(h root in the earth, and thus form a congeries of trunks, which being very clofe to each otiier, and all joined by a com- mon A^egetatiou, might cafily be miftaKen for one. Though the market at the fort was now tolerably fup- plied, provilions were brought more liowly . r^ fuffi- cient quantity ufed to be purchafed between fun-rile and eight. o'clock, but it was i)Ow become nccelfary to at- tend the greateft part of the day, Mr Banks, therefore, fixed his little boat up before the door of the fort, which was of great ufe as a place to trade in : hitherto we had purchaled cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit for beads ; but the market becoming rather flack in thefe articles, we were now, for the firft time, forced to bring out our nails : one of our fmalleft fize, which was about four inches long, procured us twenty cocoa-nuts, and bread-fruit in projiortion, fo that in a fliort tinje our firlt plenty was reftored. On the 9th, foon after breakfift, we received a vifit fi'om Oberea, being the firft that (he liad made us after the lofs of our quadrant, and the unfortunate confine- Tlient of Tootahah ; with her came her prefent favour- ite, Obadee, and Tupia : they brought us a hog and fome bread-fruit, in return for which we gave her a hatchet. We had now afforded our Indian friends a new and interefting objefl of curiofity, our forge, which having been fet up fome time, was aliriofl: conllandy at work. It was now common for them to bring pieces of iron, which we fuppofed they muit have got from the Dolphin, to be made into tools of various kinds ; and as I was very dbfirous to gratify them, they were indulged, except when the fmith's time was too preci- ous to be fparea. Oberea having received her hatchtJt, produced as much old iron as would have made ano- l ther, CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. i»5 ther, with a requefl that another might be made of it : in this, however, I could not gratify her, upon which ihe brougl'.t out a broken ax, and defired it might be mended ; I was glad of an opportunity to compromifc the difference between us : her ax was mended, and Ihe appeared to l)c content. They went away at night, and took with ^lem the canoe, which had been a con- fidefable thne at the point, but promifcd to return in three days. On the loth, 1 put fomc feeds of melons and other plants into a fpot of ground which Iiad been turned up for the pur])oic ; they had all been fealed up by the per- ibn of whvim they were bought, in fmall bottles with rofi:! ; but none of them came up except mullard ; even the cucumbers and melons failed, and Mr Banks is of opinion that they w^ere fpoilcd by the total exelu- fion oi frcdi air. This day we learnt the Indian name of the iOand, which is Otaheite, and by that name I fhall hereaf- ter diftinguifh it : but after great pains taken we found it utterly impoflible to teach the Indians to pronounce our names; we had, therefore, new n?:nc3, confiding of fuch founds as they produced in the attempt. They called me Toote ; Mr Hicks, Hcte ; Molineux they re- nounced in abfolute defpair, anu called the Mafter Bo- ba^ from his Chridi^n name Robert ; Mr Gore was Toarr^ ; Dr Sol and er, Torano ; and Mr Banks, Tapane ; Mr Green, Eterce ; Mr Parkinfon, Paiin: ; Mi- Sporing, Polini ; Pcterfgill, Peirodero ; and in this manner they had now formed names for almoft cVery man in the fhip : in fome, howeVer, it was not eafy to fmd any traces of the original, and they were perhaps not mere arbitrary founds formed upon the occafion, but figni- licant words in their own language. Monkhoufe, the Midihipman, who commanded the party that killed the man for dealing the mufket, they called Malte; not merely by an attempt to imitate in found the drd i'ylla- bje of Monkhoufe, but becaufe Matte -Xv^m^xcs ikad ; and this probably might be the cafe witli others. P 2 Friday % n6 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. Friday, the 1 2th of May, was diftingui(hcd by a vifit from ibme ladies whom we had never feen before, and who introduced themlelves with fome very fmgular ce- remonies. Mr Banks was trading in his boiit at the gate of the fort as virual, in company with Tootahah, who had that mornih ^j^ti d him a vifit, and Ibmc other of the natives ; betweeSSfett;and ten o'clock, a double canoe came to the landifrg'*|>}ac€, under the awning of which lat a man arid two women : the Indians that were about Mr Banlis made figns that he fiiould go out to meet them, v/hich he hafted to do ; but by the time he could get out of the boat, they had advanced within ten yards of him : they then ftoppcd, and made figns tiiat he fhould do fo too, laying down about a dozen young plantaiti trees, and lonie other fmall plants : he complied, ^.nd the people having made a lane between them, the man, who appeared to be a fervant, brought them to Mr Banks by one of each at a time, pafling and repafling fix times, and always pronouncing a fliort fen- lence when he delivered them. Tupia, who llcod by Mr F'cinks, ad:ed as his mafter of the ceremonies, and receiving the brandies as they were brought, laid them down in the boat. When this was done, another man brought a large bundle of cloth, which having opened, he fpread piece by piece upon the ground, in the fpace between Mr Banks and his vifitors ; there were nine pieces, and having laid three pieces one upon another, the foremoft of the women, who fcemed to be the prin- cipal, and who was called Oorattooa, Hepped up- on them, and taking up her garments all round her to thewaift,turnedabout,with great compolure anddeliber- ation, and with an air of perfect innocence an. iimpll- city, three times ; w^hen this was done, Ihe dropped tlie veil, and llepping off the cloth, three more pieces were laid on, and ihe repeated the ceremony, i;hen ftepping off as before ; the lall three were laid on, and the cere- mony was repeated in the fame manner the third time. Immediately after this the cloth was rolled up, and given to Mr Banks, as a prefent from the lady, 'vhQ,.with her friend, IV CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. »»7 friend, came up and fainted him. K(^ made flich pre- fentsto them both as he tliought vou'd be moil accep- table, and after having ftaid iihcut an hear they went awav. In the evening, the Gentlemen at the fort had a vifit from Oberea, j^.nd !ier favourite female attendant, whoie name v/as OTii£OTiiEA,an agreeable girl^whoni they v;ere the more plcafed to fee, becaufe, having been fome days abf at, it had been reported that fhe was either fick or dead. On the 1 3th, the market being over about ten o'clock, Mr L'anks walked into the woods with his gun, as he generally did, for the benefit of the (hade in the heat of the day : as he was returning back, he met Tubourai' Tamaide, near liis occafional dwelling, and flopping to fpe:id a little time with him, he fuddcnly took the gun out of Mr Banks's hand, cc/ckcd it, and holding it up in the air, drew the trigj^er : fortunately for him, it flaflied in the pan : Mr Banb^ immediately took it from him, not a little furpriled hov/ he had acquired fufficient knowledge of a gun to difcharge it, and reproved him with great fevcrity for v/hat he had done. As it was of infinke importance to keep the Indians totally ignorant of the management of lire arms, he had taken every op- portunity of intimating that they coiiid^, never offend him fo highly as by even touchmg hts piece; it was now proper to enforce this prohibition, and he therefore added threats to his reproof: the Indian bore all p.!- tientlv ; but the moment Mr Banks eroded the river, he' ict. of? with all hi-i family and furniture for his houfe at Epaiee. This being quickly known from the Indians at the fort, and great inconvenience being apprehended from the difpleafure of tliis man, who upon all occafions h.ul been particularly ufeful, Mr Banks aetermined to loilow him without delay, and folicit his return : he fet out the fame evening, accompanied by Mr Mollineux, and found him fitting in the middle of a large circle of pcv'.ple, to vj'hom he had probably related what had hap- pened, and his fears of the confequences ; he was him- icif il;^ very picture of grief and dejsdUon, and the lame palfions N M -^im. m CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. paffions were ftrongly marked in the countenances of all the people that fiirrounded him. When Mr Banks and Mr Moilineiix went into the circle, one of the women expreflcd her trouble, as Terapo had done upon ano- ther occafion, and ftruck a (hark'a tooth into her head fcveral times, till it was covered with blood. Mr Banks loft no time in putting an end to this univerfal diftrefs ; he aiTured the Chief, that every thing which had pafled fhould be forgotten, that there was not the leaft animo- ftty remaining on one lide, nor any thing to b« feared en the other. 1'he Chief was foon foothcd into con^ ■fidcnce and complacency, a double canoe was ordered lb be got ready, they all retiirntd together to the fort be- fore fupper, and as a pledge of perfect reconciliation, both he and his v^'ife flcpt all night in Mr Banks's tent : their prefence, however, was no palladium ; for, be- tween eleven and twelve o'clock, one of the natives at- tempted *o get into the fort by fcaling the walls, with a deiign, no doubt, to fteal w^hatever he fhould happen to find ; he was difcovered by the centinel, who happily ^ not fire, and he ran away much flifter than any of jJSfeifur people could follow him. The iron, and iron-tools, which were in continual ufe at the armourer's forge, that was fet up within the works, were temptations to theft which none of thefe people could withftand. , On the 14th, which was Sunday, I directed that Di- v'^e Service lliould be performed at the fort : we were delii'ous that fome of the principal Indians fhould be prefent, but when the hour came, mofl of them were returned home. Mr Banks, however, crofFed the n- .ver, and brought back Tubourai Tamaide ard hi$ wife Tomio, hoping that it would give occafion to fome en- quiries on their part, and fome inftnidion on ours : having feated them, he placed himfelf betv/een them, and during the whole fervice, they very attentively ob- ferved his behaviour, and very exactly imitated it; landing, fitting, or kneeling, as they faw him do: they were confcious that we were employed about fomcwhat ferious and important, as appeared by their . '. ' calling CAPTAIN COOK'd FIRST VOYAGE. 119 calling to the Indians without the fort to be fifent ; yet when the lervice was over, neither of them ated any qiieftions, nor would they attend to any attempt that was made to explain Vv hat had hecn done. Such were our MatinsA our Indiaiis ihow^ht fit to perform Vefpers ot' a very difFcrciit kind. A young man, near fix feet higli, performed the rites of Venus with a litde girl about eleven or twelve years of age, be- fore feveral of our people, and a great number of tlie natives, without the lead fenfe of its being ir.decent or improper, but, as appeared, in perfer coca's HaS'J^.'lCTOf^ACJlt' - into a canoe, but as it was not of greit-coafeiueni^ \\t did not complete the difcovery. When he rctnrncd, he ^as told by Tubourai Tauiaide, t n;lt another cafk would be ftolen before the morninK : how he came by t}iis knowledge it is not eafy to in^ginc ; that he was not a party in the dchgn is certain, for he came with his wife and his faniilv to the place where the water caft.r. ftood, and placing tKeir l^^eds near them, he faid he would him- felf he a pledge for their fafety, in dcfpight of the thief: of this, however, we would not admit ; and making him iinderiland that a lenfty would be placed to watch tlie caiks till the morning, he removed the beds into Mr Banks's tent, where he and his family fpent the night, makmg iigns to the fentry when he retired, that he fhould keep his eyes open. In the night this intelli- gence appeared to l>e true ; about twelve o'clock tbe thief came, but difcovering that a watch hard been fet, he went away without his booty. . Mr Banks s confidence in l\ibourai Tamakle had greatly increafed fmcc the affair of the knife, in confc- quence of which he was at length expofed to tempta- tions which neither his integrity nor his honour was •able to rehft. They had withftood many allurements, but were at length enfnared by the fafcinating charms of a baiket of nails ; thefe nails were much larger than any that had yet been brought ilito trade, and had, with perhaps fome degree of criminal negligence, been left m a corner of Mr Banks's tent, to which the Chief bad always free accefs. One of thefe nails Mr Banks's fer- vant happened to fee in his poffellion, upon his having inadvertently thrown back that part of his garment un- der which it was concealed. Mr Banks being told of this, and knowing that no fuch thing had been given him, either as a prei'ent or in barter, immediately ex- amined the bafket, and difcovered, that out of feven nails five were mifling. He then, though not v/ithout great reludtance, charged him with the fad:, which he immediately confeffed, and however he might fuffer, was, probably not more hurt tiian his accufer. A de- .... ■ mand J .:h. \ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 121 mand was immediately made of reftitution ; but this he declined, Taying, that the nails were at Eparee : how- ever, Mr Banks appearing to be mucli in earned, and uling Ibme threatening figns, he thought fit to produce nne of them. He was then taken to the fort, to receive luch judgment as ihould be given againft him by the general voice. After fome deliberation, that we might not appear to think too lightly of his ofFence, he was told, that if he would bring the other four nails to the foii, it fhould be forgotten. To this condition he agreed ; but I am for*- ry to fay he did not fulfil it. Inftead of fetching the nails, he removed with his family before night, and took all his furniture with him. As our long-boat had appeared to be leaky, I thought it neceifary to examine her bottom, and, to my g-reat furprize, found it fo m.uch eaten by the worms, that it was neceffary to give her a new one ; no fuch accident had happened to the Dolphin's boats, as I was inform- ed by the officers on board, and therefore it was a mis^ fortune that I did not exped ; I feared that the pinnace air^ mi^ht be nearly in the fame condition j but, upon examining her, 1 had the fatisfadion to find that not a worm had touched her, though fhe was built of the fame wood, and had been as much in the water ; the reafon of this difference I imagined to be, that the long-boat was paid with varnifli of pine, and the pinnace paint- ed with white lead and oil ; the bottoms of all boats therefore which are fent into this country (hould be painted like that of the pinnace, and the fhips fhould be fupplied with a good f^ock, in order to give them a nev/ coating when it fhould be found necefiary. . > Having received repeated mcffages from Tbotah^h^ that if we would pa^ him a vifit he would acknowledge the favour by a prefent of four hogs, I fent Mr tficks, my Firft Lieutenant, to try if he could not procure the hogs u{)on eafier terms, with orders to fhow him every civility in his power. Mr Hicks found that he was rc-» moved from -Eparee to a place called Te T T A H A H ; livt Vol.1.— N° 4. C^ miles 122 CAPTAIN COOK'g FIRST VOYAGE. inilevS farther to the weftward. He was received with great cordiality ; one hog was immediatelyr produced, and he was told that the other three, which were at ibme diftance, fhould be brought in the morning. Mr Hicks readily confented to ftay ; but the morning came without the hogs, and it not oeing convenient to ftay longer, he returned in the evening, with the one that he had got. On the 25th, Tubourai Tamaide and his wife To- mio made their appearance at the tent, for the firft time lince he had been deteded in ftealing the nails ; he feemed to be under fome difcontent and apprehenfion, yet he did not think fit to purchafe our countenance and good-will by reftoring the four which he had fent away. As Mr Banks and the other Gentlemen treated him with a coolnefs and referve which did not at all tend to reftore his peace or good-humour, his ftay was fliort, and his departure abrupt. Mr Monkhoule, the Sur- geon, went the next morning in order to effed a re- conciliation, by perfuading him to bring down the nails, but he could not fucceed. On the 27th, it was determined that we fhould pay our vifit to Tootahah, though we were not very con- fident that we Ihould receive the hogs for our pains. I therefore fct out early in the morning, with Mr Banks and Dr Solander, and three others, in the pinnace. He w^as now . removed from Tettahah, where Mr Hicks had feen him, to a place called Atahourou, about fix miles farther, and as we could not go above half way thither in the boat, it was almoft evening before we arrived : we found him in his ufual ftate, fitting un- der a tree, with a great crowd about him. We made our j)refcnts in due form, confifting of a yellow fluff petticoat, and fome other trifling articles, which were gracioufly received; a hog was immediately ordered to be killed and drened for fupper, with a promife of more in the morning : however, as we were lefs defir- ous of feafting upon our journey than of carrying bad': with us provifions, which would be more welcome at the <#«» CAPTAIN COOlCs FIRST VOYAGE. 123 the fort, we procured a reprieve for the hog, and fup- ped upon the fruits of the country. As night now came on, and the place was crowded with many more than the houfes and canoes would contain ; there heing Ohe- rea with her attendants, and many other travellers whom we knew, we began to look out for lodgings. Our party confifted of fix : Mr Banks thought himlelf fortunate in being offered a place by Oberea in her ca- noe, and wifhing his friends a good night, took his leave. He went to reft early, according to the cuftom of the country, and taking off his clothes, as was his conftant practice, the nights being hot, Oberea kindly infifted upon taking them into her own cuftody, for otherwife flie laid they would certainly be ftolen. Mr Banks having fuch a fafeguard, refigned himfelf to fleep with all imaginable tranquility : but awaking about eleven o'clock, and wanting to get up, he fearch- ed for his clothes where he had feen them depofited by Oberea when he laid down to fleep, and foon perceivecl that tiiey were mifTmg. He immediately awakened Oberea, who ftarting up, and hearing his complaint, ordered lights, and prepared in great hafte to recover what he had loft : Tootahah himfelf flept in the next canoe, and being foon alarmed, he came to them and fet out with Oberea in fearch of the thief: Mr Banksi was not in a condition to go with them, for of his ap- parel fcarce any thing was left him but his breeches ; his coat, and his waiftcoat, with his piftols, powder- horn, and many other things that were in the pockets, wefe gone. In about half an hour his two noble friends returned, but without having obtained any intelligence of his clothes or of the thief. At firft he began to be alarmed^ his mufquet had not indeed been taken away, but he had negleded to load it ; where I and Dr Solan- der had difpoied of ourfelves he did not know ;' and tlierefore,, whatever might happen, he could not have recourfe to us for affiftance. He thought it beft, hbw- eyer, to exprefs neither fear nor fuft>icion of thbfe about hjm, and giying hie mufquet to Tupia, who had beei\ 0^2 waked ta4 CAPTAIN COp|C's FIRST VOYAGE. waked in the confiifion and flood b}"^ him, with a charge not to fufFer it to be llolen, he betook himfelt again to reft, declaring hlmfelf pcrfedly fatislied with the pairjs that Tootahah and Oberea had taken to recover his things, though they had not been luccefsful. As it cannot be inppofcd that in fuch a iituation his flccp was very found, he foon after heard mufic, and faw lights at a Httle diilance on fhore : this was a concert or afr fembly, which they call a Heiva, a comnion.name for every public exhibition ; and as it would neceffarily bring many people together, and there was a chance of my being among them with his other friends, he rofe, and macte the heft of his way towards it : he was fcion led by the lights and the found to the hut wliere I lay, with three other Gentlemen of our party ; and eafily diftinguifliing \is from the reft, he m;vd;: up to us more than half naked, and told us his melancholy ftory. We- gave him fuch comfort as the unfortunate generally give to each other, by telling him that we were lellow- mffcrers ; I fl)owed him that I was myfelf without ftock-^ ings, they having been ftolen from under my head, though I was fure I had never been afiecp, and each of rtiy afTociates convinced him, by his appearance, that he had loft a jacket. We dereiTnined, however, to hear out the concert, however deficient we might appear in our drefs ; it confifted of three drums, four flutes, and feveral voices : when this entertainment, which lafted about an hour, was over, we retired again to our fleep- ing-places ; having agreed, that nothing could be done toward the recovery of our things till the morning. We rofe at day-break, according to the cuftom of the country ; the iirft man that Mr Banks faw was Tupia, faithfully attending with his mufquet ; and foon after, Oberea brought him fonie of her country clothes, as a fuccedaneura for his own, fq that when he came to us he made a moft motly appearance, liialf Indian and half Englifh. Gur party foon got together, except Dr So- lander, whofe quarters we did not know, and who had not aflitted at the concert; in a Ihort time Tootahah ' made CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE 125 harge ;ain to ; pali>s er bis As it cp was 1 lights : or afr :\ name ^effarily ance of he rofe, /as faoni re 1 lay, ,d eafily us more ry. We- generally e lellow- >ut ftock-- ny head, i each of nee, that r, to hear Lppcar in utes, and :h lafted »ur fleep- be done ing. im 01 the Ls Tupia, 3on after, ihes, as a [me to us and half >t Dr So- wbo had ootahah m^Ut eighty yards lonj5 and twenty broad, and in tb^i^^ddle of it was a bed of white fand, large enough & the tents to (land upon. Mr Gore and his aflillants immediately began to let them up, and make other neceflary preparations for the important bulinefs of the next day^ While this was doing, Mr Banks, with the Indians of Otaheite, and the people whom they had met in the canoe, went aihore upon the main illand, to buy, provifions ; of which he procured a fufficient fupply "before night. When he returned to the rock he found the obfervatory in order, and the telefcopes all fixed and tn«d. The etening was very fine, yet their folicitude did not per-* mit them to take much reft in the night : one or other of them was up every half hour, who fatisfied the im- patience of the reft by reporting the changes of the fky ; now encouraging their hope by telling them that it was clear, and nov/ alarming their fears by an ac- count that it was hazy. At da.y-?)rcak they got up, and had the fatisfadlion to fee t}i,e fun rife, without a cloud. Mr Banks then, wiihing the obfervers, Mr Gore and Mr Monkhoufe, fucGcfs, repaired again to the iiland,, that he might ex- amine its produce, and c:et a frefh fupply of provifions: he began bv trading with the natives, for which pur- pofe he toofc his ftation Uiider a tree ; and t > keep them from prefling upon him in a crowd, he drew a circxc I round them, which he fuftered none of them to enter. About eight o'clock, he faw two canoes coming to- wards the place, and was given to underftand by tR« people j>bout him, that they belonged to TARRAo,the King of the iiland, who was comi^ig to make him a vifit As foon as the canoes came near the Ihore «he people made a lane from the beach to the tradiog- place. and bia Majefty landed, with his fitter, whole . . / " name c- .^>^::^. CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 129 nan'e was Nun A ; as they advanced towards the tree where Mr lianks ftood, he went out to meet them, and, widi great formality, introduced them into the cir- cle from which the other natives had heen excluded. As it is the cuftom of thefe people to fit during all their conferences, Mr Banks unwrapped a kind^f turban of Indian cloth, which he w^ore upon his head inftead of a hat, and fpreading it upon the ground, they all fat down upon it together. The royal pfefent v/as then brought, which confifted of a hog and a dog, fome bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other articles of the ?ike kind. Mr Banks then difpatched a canoe to the obfer- vatorv for his prefent, and the meffengcrs foon return- ed with an adze, a (hirt, and fome beads, which were prefented to his Majefty, and received with great fati&- Kidion. '• By this time, Tubourai Tamaide and Tomio joined tliern, from the obfervatory. Tomio faid, thi;t fhc was related to Tarrao, and brought him a prefent of a long nail, at the fame time complimenting Nuna with afliirt. The firft internal contaQ of the planet with the fun being over, Mr Banks returned to the oblervatory, ta- king Tarrao, Nuna, and fome of the:r principal atten- detfits, among whom v ere three very handiome young women, with him : he fhowed them the planet upon the fun, and epd;iavoured to make them underftand that he and his companions had come from their own country on purpofc to fee it. Soon after, Mr Banks returned with them to the ifland, where he fpent the reft of the day in examining its produce, which he found 10 be much the fame with that of Otaheite. The peo- ple whom he iaw there alfo cxafUy refembled the inha- bitants of that ifland, and many of them were perfons ^hom he had feen upon it ; fo that all thofe whom he had dealt with, knew of what his trading articles con- fifted, and the value they bore^ The next morning, having (truck the tents, they fet out on their return, and arrived at the fort before night. The obfervation was made with equal fuccefsby the Vol.l.-N«>4. R per* 130 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. perfons whom I fent to the eaftward, and at the forr, there not being a cloud in (he fkyfrom the riling to the fetting of the fun, the whole paffage of the planet Ve- nus over the fun's difk was ohferved with great advan- tage by Mr Green, Dr Solander, and myfelf : Mr Green's telefcope and mine were of the fame magnify- ing power, but that of Dr Solander was greater. We all faw an atmofphere or dulky cloud round the body of the planet, which very much difturbed the times of contaft, efpecially of the internal ones ; and we differed from each other in our accounts of the times of the con- ta6ts much more than might have been expeded. Ac- COTding to Mr Green, The firft external cuntaA, or firft appearance cf Venus on fhe Sun, was — — — _ ■ ■..- .— Tbe firft internal C9ntadt, or total immerlion, was ' ,. ■ Thefecond internal contadl, or beginning ^f the emerllon, — The fecond external cuntad, or total emerfioa — — I^. M. S. Morning. 9 «5 ^' 9 44 Afternoon. 3 14 8 3 33 lo The latitude of the obfervatory was found to be 1 7 deg. 22 min. 15 fee. and the l'- igitude 149 deg. 32 min. 30 fee. "W. of Greenwich. A more particular account will appear by the tables, for which the reader is refer- red to the Tranfadions of the Royal Society, vol. Ijtt part 2. page 397 and feq. where they are illuftrated bj? a cut. But if we had reafon to congratulate ourfelves upon the! fuccefs of our obfervation, we had Ibarce lefs cauleto regret the diligence with which that time had been im- proved by fome of our people to another purpofe. vVhile the attention of the officers were engroifed by the Tranfu of Venus, fome of the Chip's company broke into one of the /.tore-rooms, and rtole a quantity S fpike naUfi, amounting to no lefs than one hundred weight : this was a matter of public and ferious con- cern ; for thefe nails, if circulated by the people among the Indians, vi^ould do Us irreparable injury, by redu- cbg the value of iron, our ftaple commodity. One of the CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 'J« the thieves was deterefling in- |t be refto- :o believe, :hem were by their [he thieves >ty, deter- mortified Banks immediately repaired to the place, and an amica- ble end was foou put to the diipute, by fending the boat's crew to the river, where ftones enough were to be gathered without a poflibility of giving offence. It Is very remarkable, that thele Indians appeared to be much more jealous of what was done to the dead than the living. This was the only meafure in which they ven- tured* to oppofe us, and the only infult that was offered to any individual among us was upon a fimilar occafion. Mr Monkhoufe happening one day to pull a flower from a tree which grew in one of their lepulchral in- clofures, an Indian, whofe jealoufy had probably been upon the watch, came fuddenly behind him, and (truck him : Mr Monkhoufe laid hold of him, but he was in- ftantly refcued by two more, who took hold of Mr Monkhoufe's hair, and forced him to q^uit his bold of their companion, and then ran away without offering him any farther violence. In the evening of the 19th, while the canoes were ftill detained, we received a vifit from Oberea, which fiirprifed us not a little, as flie brought with her none of the things that had been ftolen, and knew that ihe was fufpeded of having fome of them in her cuftody. She faid indeed, that her favourite Obadee, whom (he had beaten and difmiffed, had taken them away j but fhc feemed confcious, that ftie had no right to be believed ; ihe difcovered the ftrongeft figns of fear, yet ilie fur- mounted it with aftonilhing refolution ; and was very prefling to fleep with her attendants in Mr Banks's tent. In this, however, (he was not gratified ; the afiair of the jacliets was too recent, and the tent was befides filled with other people. No body elfe feemed willing to en- tertain her, and (lie therefore, with great appearance of mortitication and difappointment, fpent the night in lier canoe. The next morning early, fhe returned to the fort, [Wlth her canoe and every thing that it contained^ mtU^ jtingherfelf wholly.into our power, with foinethinglifce ' jgreatnefs of mind, which excited our wonder and j^d-j 1^ 2 niiratioor 140 CAPTAIN COOK'S TIRST VOYAGE. miration. As the moft eifedual means to bring about a re conciliation, fhe prefented us with a hog, and ieve- ral other things, among which was a dog. We had lately learnt, that thcfe animals were efteemcd by the Indiam as more delicate food than their pork ; and up- on this occafion we determined to try the'expeiiment : the dog, which was very fat, we conhgned over to Tu- p;a, WHO undertook to perform the double oflBce of but- cher and cook. He killed him by holding his hands ciofe ever his mouth and nofe, an op'jration which con- tinued above a quarter 6f an hour. While this was do- ing, a hole was made in the ground about a foot deep, An which a fire was kindled, and fome fmall flones pla- ced in layers alternately with the wood to heat ; the dog ■was then finged, by holding him over the fire, and, by feraping him with a Oiell, the hair taken oifas clean as \£ he had l>een fcalded in hot water : he was then cut up with the fame inftrument, and his entrails being taken out, were fent to the fea, where being carefully walhed, they were put into cocoa-nut (hells, with what blood had come from the body ; when the hole was fufficient- ly heated, the fire was taken out, and fome of the ftoncs, "which were not fo hot as to difcolour any thing that t^ey touched, being placed at the bottom, were cover- ed with green leaves : the dog, with the entrails, was then placed upon the leaves, and other leaves being laid ppon them, the whole was covered with the reft of the hot flones, and the mouth of the hole clofe flopped wi^h mould : in fomewhat lefs than four hours it was again opened, and the dog taken out excellently baked, and we all agreed that he made a very good dift^. The dogs which are here bred to be eaten, talle no animal food, but are kept wholly upon bread-fruit, cpcpa-nuts, yams, and other vegetables of the like kind : all the flerfi and fifh eaten by the inhabitaats is dreifed ip the fame way. On the Ijft, we were vifited at the fort by a Chi^f, called Oamo, whom we had never feen before, and 'i^'ho was treated by the natives with uncooimon refped; be brought with hiir^ a boy about feycn years old, and. CAPTAIN COOir* FIRST VOYAGE. 14c a young woman about fixtecn : the boy was carried up- on a man's back, which we conlidcrcd as a piece of ftate, for he was as well able to walk as any preient. As Ibon as they were in light, Oberea, and feveral other natives who were .in the fort, went out to meet them, having iirft uncovered their heads and bodies as low a» the waift : as they came on, the fame ceremony was performed by ail the natives who were without the fort. Uncovering the body, therefore, is in this country pro- bably a mark of refpeft ; and as all parts arc here ex- pofed with equal indifference* the ceremony of unco- vering it from the waill downwards, which was per- formed by Oorattooa, might be nothing more than a different mode of compliment, adapted to perfons o( a different rank. The Chief came into the tent, but no entreaty could prevail upon the young woman to fol- low him, though (he fcemed to rcfufe contrary to her inclination : the natives without were indeed all very felicitous to prevent her ; fometimes, wl en her refolu- tion feemed to fail, alinofl ufing force : the boy alfo they reftrained in the fame manner ; but Dr Solander hap- pening to meet him at the gate, took him by the hand, and led him in before the people were aware of it : as foon, however, as thofe that were within faw him, they ^ook care to have him fent out. Thefe circumftances having flrongly excited our cu- riofity, we enquired who they were, and were inform- • ed, that Oamo was the hufband of Oberea, though they had been a long time leparated by mutual confent ; and that the young woman and the boy were their children. We learnt alfo, that the boy, whofe name was Terri- DiRi, was heir apparent to the fovercignty of the ifland, and that his fifter was intended for his wife, the mar- riage being deferred only till he fhould arrive at a pro- per age. The fovereign at this time was a fon of Whappai, whofe name was OuTOU, and who, as before has been obferved, was a minor. Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were brothers: W^happai was the eldeft, and Oa;no the f^cond 5 fothat, Whappai hav- ing M* CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIR5JT VOYAGE. ing no child but Oatou, Terridiri, the fon }f his next brother Oamo, was heir to the lovereignty. It will perhaps, feem ftrange that a boy Oiould be fovere^gn during the life of his father; but, according to the cuf^ torn of the country, a child fucceeds to a father s title and authority as foon as it is born : a regent is then eleA- ed, and the father of the new fovereign is generally continued in his authority, under that title, till his child is of age i but, at this time, the choice had fallen upon Tootahah, the uncle, in confequence of his having dif^ tinguiihed himfelf in a war. Oamo afked many quef- tions concerning England and its inhabitants, by which he appeare(^ to have great fhrewdnefs and underdand* On Monday the 26th, about three o'clock in the morning, 1 fet out in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr Banks, to make the circuit of the ifland, with a view to fketch out the rcaH; and harbours. We took our route to the eaftward, and al lut eight in the forenoon we went on fhore, in a diftridt called Oahounue^ which is governed by Ah 10, a young Chief, whom we had often feen at the tents, and who favoured us with his company to breakfaft. Here alfo we found two other natives of err old acquaint^mce, Tituboalo and HooNA, who carried us to their houfes, near which. we faw the body of the o^d woman, at whofe funeral rites Mr Banks had afljfted, and which had been re- moved hither from the fpot where it was firft depofited, this place having defcended from her by inheritance to Hoona, and it being neceffary on that account that it fhould lie here. We then proceeded on foot, the boat attending within call, to the harbour in which Mr, Bou- gainville lay, called Ohioea, wh^re the natives fhew-. cd us the ground upon w^hich his people pitched their tent, and the brook at which they watered, though no trace of them remained, except the holes where the poles of the tent had been fixed, and a fmall piece of potfheard, which Mr Banks found in looking narrowr ly jibout the fpot. We met, however, with OrettEi • CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 143 a Chief who was their principal friend,* and whofe bro- ther Outor?vOU went away with them. This harbour lies on the weft fide of a great bay, un- der (helter of a fmall ifland called BooUROU> near which is another called Taawirrii ; the breach in the reefs is here very large, but the fhelter for the fhips is not the beft. Soon after we had examined this place, we took boat, and alked Tituboalo to go with us to the other iide of the bay ; but he refufed, and advifed us not to go, for he faia the country there was inhabited by people who «^ere not fubje£t to Tootahah, and who would kili both him and us. Upon receiving this intelligence, we did not, as may be imagined, relinquifh our enterprize ; bu: we immediately loaded our pieces with ball : this was.fo well underftood by Tituboalo as a precaution which rendered us formidable, tliat he now confented to be of our party. Having rowed till it was dark, we reached a low neck of land, or ifthmus, at the bottom of the bay, that divides the ifland into two peninfulas, each of which is a diftridt or government wholly indepen- dent of the other. From Port-Royal, where the fhip was at anchor, the coaft trends E. by S. and E. S. E. ten. miles, then S. by E. and S. eleven miles to the ifthimia.! In the firft dirednon, the (hore is in general open to the^ fea ;i>ut in the laft it is covered by A-eefs of rocks, which form feveral good harbours, with fafe anchorage, in 16, 18, 20, and 24 fathom of water, with other con- veniences. As we had not yet got into our enemy's country, we determined to fleep on fhore . we landed, and though we found but few houfes, we faw leveral double canoes whofe owners were well known to us, and who provided us with fupper and lodging; of which Mr Banks was indebted for his (hare to Ooratooa, the lady who had paid him her compliments in fo fingular a manner at the fort. In the morning, we looked about the country, and found it to be a marfhy flat, about two miles over, acrofs which /. 144 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. which the natives haul their canoes to the correfportcl*' ing bay on the other lide. We then prepared to coil^- tinue our rout for w'hat Tituboalo called the other king- dom; he faid that the name of it was Tiarrabou, or Otaheite £t£ ; and that of the Chief who governed it, Waheatua : upon this occafion alfo, we learnt that the name of the peninfula where we had taken our ftation was Opoureonu, or Otaheite Nue. Our new aflbciate Teemed to be now in better fpirits than he had been the day before; the people in Tiarrabou would not kill us, he laid, but he auured us that we fhould be able to procure no vit^uals among them ; and indeed tve had feen no bread-fruit fince we fet out. After rowing ^ few miles, we landed in a diftri<9:, which was the dominion of a Chief called Maraita- TA, the burying-place of men ; whofe father's .name was Pahairedo, the ftealer of boats. Though thefe names feemed .to favour the account that had been flyen.by Tituboalo, we foon found that it was not true, oth the father and the fon received us with tJie greateft dvilky, gave us proviiionsj and, after fome delay, fold us a very large hog for a hatchet. A crowd foon gather- ed round us, but w*? faw only two people that we knew; neither did we obferve a fmgle bead or ornament among them that had come from our Ihip, though we faw feveral things which had been brought from Europe. In one of the houfcs lay two twelve-pound Ihot, one of which was marked with the broad arrow of England, though the people faid they had them from the Ihips that lay in Bougainville's harbour. We proceeded on foot till we came to the diftrid v;hich was immediately under the goverment bf the principal Chief, or King of the penmfula, Waheatua. WaJieatua had a fon, but whether, according to thecuf- tom of Opoureonu, he adminiftered the government as regent, or in his own right, is uncertain. This diftrtft confifts of a large and fertile plain, watered by a river ih wide, that we were obliged to f«rry over it in a canoe ; our Indian train, however, chofc to fwim, and took to , . the CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 145 water with the fame facility as a pack of hounds. In this place we faw no houfe that appeared to be inhabi- ted, but the ruins of many, that had been very large. We proceeded along the Ihore, which forms a bay, cal- led OAiTiPiiH A, and at laft we found the Chief fitting nearfome pretty canoe awnings, under which, we fup- pofed, he and his attendants ilept. Jrle was a thin old man, with a very white head and beard, and had wirh him a comely woman, about five and twenty years old, whofe name was Toudidde. We had often heard the name of this woman, and, from report and obferva- tion, we had reafon to think that fhe was the Olerea of this peninfula. From this place, between which and the ifthmus there are other hiirbours, formed by tlie reefs that lie along the fhore, where (hipping may lie-in perfedt fecurity, and from whence the land trends o. S. E. and S. to tlie S. E. part of the^ illand, we were ac^: comprmied by Tr AREE,the fon of Waheatua, of whom we had purchafed a hog, and the country \vc pafTed throujgh appeared to be more cultivated than any we had (eexi in other parts of the ifland : the brooks ^erc every where banked into narrow channels wiili ftone, and the fhore had alfo a facinr^ of flonc^, where itV was wafl-icd by the lea. The houf were nelthec large nor numerous, but the canoes thii '^cie liauled. up along the fliore were almofl innumerab'^, and fuperior to any that we had iceu before, both jn fize and make; they were longer, the Herns were higher, and tiie awnings were fupporced by p .liars. At aimoll every point there was a iepulchral building, and there were many of them alfo in land. They were of the fame figure as thole in Opoureonu,but they were clean-; er and better kept, and decorated with many carved, boards, which were fet upright, and on tlie top of which were various figures of birds and men : on one in par- ticular, there was the reprefentation of a cock, which was painted red and yellow, to imitate the feathers of that animal, and rude images of men were, in foinc of I them, placed one lipon the head of another. But ia. this part of the countrv, however fertile and cuklvated, Vol.l.-N«4- ' T we 1 * ■ 146 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. we dill not fee a fingle bread-fruit ; the trees were en- tirely bare, and the inhabitants feemed to lubfill princi- pally upon nuts which are not unlike a chefnut, and which they call Ahee: When we had walked till we were weary, we called np the boat, but both our Indians, Tituboalo and Tua- how, were mliTing : they had, it ieems, flayed behind at Waheatua's, expelling us to return thither, in con- fequence of a promife which had been extorted from us, and wliich we had it not in our power to fulfil. Tearee, however, .d another, embarked with us, and we proceeded till we came a-breafl of a fmall ifland called Otooareite; it being then dark, we deter- mined to land, and our Indians conducted us to a place where they faid we might fleep : it was a deferted houfe, and near it was a little cove, in which the bo^t might lie with great fafety and convenience. We were, how- ever, in want of provifions, having been very fparing- ly fupplied fmce we fet out ; and Mr Banks immedi- ately went into the woods to fee whether any could be procured. As it was dark, he met with no people, and could find but one houfc that was inhabited : a bread- fruit and a half, a few Ahees, and fome fire, were all that it aflbrded ; upon which, with a duck or two, and a few curlicus, we made our fupper, which, if not fcan- ty, was difagreeable, by the want of bread, with which we had ncgledted to furnifh ourfelves, as we depended upon meeting with bread-fruit, and took up our lodging under the awning of a canoe belonging to Tearee, which followed us. • The next morning, after having fpcnt fome time in another fruiriefs attempt to procure a fupply of provi- fions, we proceeded round the fouth eaft point, part of which is not covered by any reef, but lies open to the fea ; and here the'hill rifes diredtly from the fhore. At the fouthermoft part of the ifland, the fhore is again co- vered by a reef, which forms a good ha hour ; and the land about it is very fertile. We mad^^ tlus rout partly on foot, and partly in the boat ; wbcii we had walked • about CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. M7 about three miles, we arrived at a place where we faw feveral large canoes, and a numbeT of people with them, whom we were agreeably furprifed to find Were of our intimate acquaintance. Here, with much difficulty, we procured ibme cocoa-nuts, and then embarked, taking with us Tuahow, one of the Indians who had waited for us at Wahcatua's, and liad returned the night before, lon^ after it was dark. When we came a-brcaft of the fouth-eaft end of the ine'.nd, we went all^ore, by the advice of our Indian guide, who told us that the country w^as rich and good. 'Ihe Chief, whofe name was Mathiabo, foon came down to as, but feemed to be a total llranger both to -us and to our trade : his fubjed:s, however, brought us plenty of cocoa-nuts, and about twenty bread-fruit. The bread-fruit we bouglit at a very dear rate, but his excel- lency fold us a pig for a glafs bottle, which he preferred to every thing elfe that we could give him. We found in his polieflion a goofe and a turkey«cock, which, we were informed, had been left upon the illand by the Dolphin ; they were both enormoufly fat, and fo tame that they followed the Indians, who were ibnd of them to excels, wherever they went. In a long houfe in this neighbourhood, we faw what Was altogether new to us. At one end of it, faftened to a femicircular board, hung fifteen human jaw-bones ; they appeared to be freQi, and there was not one of them that wanted a fingle tooth. A fight fo extraordi- nary, ftrongly excited our cnriofity, and we made ma-- ny enquiries about it ; but at this time could get no in- formation, for the people either could not, or would not underftand us. When we left this place, the Chief, Mathiabo, defir- ed leave to accompany us, which was readily granted. He condnued with us the remainder of the day, and proved very ufeful, by piloting us over the (hoals. In the evening, we opened the bay on the north weft fide of the ifland, which anfwered to that on the fouth eafi:, fo as at the ifthmus, or carrying-place, almoft to infer- Ta ua T48 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. fed. the ifland, as I have oblerved before ; and when we had coafled about two-thirds of it, we determined to go on (hore for the night. We faw a large houfe at fome diltancc, wliich, Mathiabo informed us, belonged to one of his friends ; and foon after feveral canoes came off to meet us, having on board fome very handforfie wo- men, who, by their behaviour, feemed to have been fcnt to entice us on fliore. As we had before refolved to take lip our refidence here for the night, little invita- tion \\'v.?> neceiliiry. We found that the houfe belong- ed to tl'O Chief ci the diRrid, whofe name was WiVE- Rou : l.'j. r'jctivea r.s in a very friendly manner, and ordered Ivls people to affift us in drefTing our provifion, cf which we had now got a tolerable ftock. When cut f up per was ready; we were conduced into that part of the houfe where Vv^iverou was fitting, in order to eat it ; Mathiabo iiipped with us, and Wiverou calling for l.is fupp'.r At the iamc time, we eat o]L:r meal very Ibciably, and wiih great good humour. When it w^as over, we began to enquire where we were tc lleep, and a part of the houfe was fhewn us, of which we wtc told we might take poflefTion for that purpofe. We then fent for our cloaks, and Mr Banks began to undrefs, as his cuftom was, and, with a precaution which he had been taught by the iofs of the jackets at Atahourou, fent his clothes aboard the boat, propofmg to cover himfelf with a piece of Indian cloth. When Mathiabo perceived what Wos doing, he alfo pretended to want a cloak ; and, as he had behaved very well, and done us fome fervice, a cloak uas ordered for him. We lay down, and obferved that Mathiabo was not with us; but we fuppofcd that he was gone to bathe, as the Indians al- ways do before they deep. We had not waited long, liowever, when an Indian, who was a ftrangcr to us, camt and told Mr Banks, that the cloak and Mathiabo had <.iifa])pearcd together. This man had fo far gained our coi.ficience, that we did not at hrft believe the re- port ; bui it be ing foon after confirmed by Tuahow, our own indi;;i:, we knew no time was to be loft. As it was im- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRS" VOYAGE. 149 impoflible for us to purfue the tliief with any hope of fuccefs, without the afli (lance of the jjed^le about us, Mr Banks ftarted up, and telling our cal'e, required them to recover the cloak ; and to enforce his recjuifition, (hewed one of his pocket piftols, which he always kept about him. Upon the fight of the piftol, the "w^ole company took the alarm, and, inflead of a:Tifting to catch the thief, or recover what had been ftolen, began with great precipitation to leave the place ; one of them, however, was feized, upon which he immediately offer- ed to dire£t the chace : I fet out therefore with Mr Banks, and though wc ran all the way, the alarm had got be- fore us, JOT in about ten minutes we met a man bring- ing back the cloak, which the thief had relinquiflied in great terror ; and as we did not then think fit to conti- nue the purfiiii, he made his efcape. When we return- ed,, we found the houfe, in which there had been be- tween two and three lui ulred people, entire' v deferted. It being, however, fcon known that w^e hatl no refent- ment againft any body but Mathiabo, the Chief Wive- rou, our hod, with his wife and many others., returned, and took up their lodging with us for the night. In this place, however, Vvc were deftined to more confu- fion and trouble, for about live o'clock in the morning our fentry alarmed us, with an account that the boat was miffing : he had fcen her, he faid, about' half an hour before, at her grappling, which was not above fifty yards from the fliore; but upon hearing the found of oars, he looked out again, and could fee nothing of lier. At this account we flarted up greatly alarmed, and ran to the water fide : the morning was clear and f\ar light, fo that we could fee to a confiderable diflance, but there w^as no appearance of the boat. Our fituation was now fuch as might juflify the mofl terrifying ap- prehenfions ; as it was a dead calm, and we could not. therefore fuppofe -her to have broken from her grap- pling, we had great reafon to fear that the Indians had I attacked her, and finding the people afleep, had fucceed- ' [ed in their enterprize ; we were but four, with only one mufquet 15© CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. nuiCquet and two pocket pidols, witliout a fpare ball or a charge of powder for either. In this ftate of anx- iety and diftrels we remained a confiderable time, ex- pelling the Indians every moment to improve their ad- vantage, when, to our unfpcakable fatisfadlion, we faw the boat return, which had been driven from her grap- pling by the tide ; a circurnflance to which, in our con- lufion and furprife, we did not advert. As foon as the boat returned, we got our breakfaft, and were impatient to leave the place, left fome o:her vexatious accident fhouM befal us. It is fituated on the north tide of Tiarrabou, the ibuth eaft peninfula, or di- vifion, of the ifland, at the diftant of about five miles fouth eaft from. the ifthmus, having a large and com- modious harbour, inferior to none in the ifland, about which the land is very rich in produce. Notwithftand- ing we had had little commmunication with this divi- iion, the inhabitants every where received us in a friend- ly manner ; we found the whole of it fertile and popu- lous, and, to all appearance, in a more flourifliing ftate than Opoureonu, though it is not above one fourdi part as large. The next diftricS in which we landed, was the laft in Tiarrabou, and governed by a Chit *^ whofe name we underftood to be Omoe. Omoe was building a hciife, and being therefore very defirous of procuring a hatch- et, he would have been glad to have purchafed one with any thing that he had in his poffemon ; it happened, however, rather unfortunately for him and us, that we had not one hatchet left in the boat. . We oiTered to trade with nails, but he would not part with any thing in exchange for them ; we therefore re-imbarked, and put off" our boat, but thfj C^hief being unwilling to re- hnquifli all hope of obtaining fometliing from us that ihquld be of ufe to him, embarked in a canoe^ with his wife Whanno-ouda, and followed us. After fome time, we took them into the boat, and when we had rowed about, a league, they defired we would put afliore : we immediately complied with his requeft, and - found, CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. »5i found fomeofhis people who had brought down u ve- ry large hog. We were as unwilling to !ofc the hog, as the Chief was to part with us, and it w^as indeed worth the heft axe we had in the fliip ; we therefore hit upon an expedient, and told him, that if he would bring his hog to the fort at Matavai, the Indian name for Port Royal bay, he (hould have a large axe, anl a nail into the bargain, for his trouble. To this propofal, af- ter having confulted with his wife, he agreed, and gave us a large piece of his country cloth as a pledge that he would perform his agreement, which, however, he never did. At this place we faw a very fingular curiofity : it was the figure of a man, conftruded of bafket work, rudely made, but not ill defigncd ; it was fomething more than feven feet high, and rather too bulky in proportion to its height. The wicker (keleton was completely co- vered with feathers, which were white where the fkin was to appear, and black in the parts which it is their cuftom to paint or llain, and upon the head, where there was to be a rcprefcntation of hair : upon the head alfo were four protuberances, three in front and one be- hind, which we {hould have called horns, but which the Indians dignified v.'ith the name of Tate Ete, litde men. The image was called Manioe, and was faid to be the only one of the kind in Otaheite. They attempted to give us an explanation of its ufe and de- fign, but we had not then acquired enough of their language to underftand them. We learnt; however, afterwards, that it w^as a reprefentation of Mauwe, one of their Eatuas, or gods ot the fecond clafs. After having fettled our affairs witli Omoe, we proceeded on our return, and foon reached Opoure- onu, the north-weft peninfula. After rowing a few miles, we went on Ihore again, but the only thing we faw worth notice, was a repolitory for the dead, uncom- monly decorated : the pavement was extremely neat, and upon it w^as raifed a pyramid, about iive feet high, which was intirely covered with the fruits of two plants, peculiAT 152 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. to the country. Near the pyramid vjas a finall image of (lone, of veryTude workmanlhip, and the lirll in- ilance of carving m flone that we had fcen among thefe people. They appeared to fet a high vahie upon it, for it was covered from the weather by a Ihed, that had been erc£tcd on purpofe. ,We proceeded in the boat, and pafled through the only harbour, on the fouth fide of Opoureonu, that is fit lor {hipping. It i^ lituated about five miles to the weftward of the ifthmus, between two fmall iflands that lie near the (liore, and about a mile diftant from each other, and affords good anchorage in eleven and twelve fathom water. We were now not far from the diftridt called Paparr-jV, which belonged to our friends Oamo and Oberea, where w^e propofed to fleep. We went on Ihore about an hour before night, and found that they were both abfent, having left their habitations to pay us a vifit at Matavai : this, however, did not alter our pur- pofe, we took up our quarters at the houfe of Oberea, ■which, though finall, was very neat, and at this time had no inhabitant but her father, who received us with looks that bid us welcome. Having taken puffeifion, we were willing to improve the little day-light that was left us, and therefore walked out to a point, upon which we had feen, at a diftance, trees that are here called Etoa, which generally diftinguifh the places where thefe peo- ple bu^y the bones of their dead : their name for fuch burying-grounds, which are alfo places of worfliip, is Moral We were foon ftruck with the fight of an enormous pile, which, we were told, was the Morai of Oamo and Oberea, and the principal piece of Indian architedturc in the ifland. It was a pile of flone work, raifed pyramidically, upon an oblong bafe, or fquare, two hundred and f ixty-feven feet long, and 'eighty-fe- ven wide. It was built like the fmall pyramidal mounts upon which we fometimes fix the pillars of a fun-dial, where each fide is a flight of fleps ; the fteps, however, at the fides, were broader than thofe at the ends, fo that it terminated not in a fquare of the fame figure with the bale, CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 153 bafe, but in a ridge, like the roof of a houfe: there were eleven of thefe ftep8,.each of which was four feet high, ih that the height of the pile was forty-four feet ; each ftep was formed of one courfe of white coral ftone, which was neatly fquared and poliftied, the reft of the m.ifs, for there was no hollow within, conii'fted of round pebbles, which, from the regularity of their figure, feemed to have been wrought. Some of the coral ftones were very large ; we meafured one of them, ana found it three feet and an half by two feet and an half. The foundation was of rock ftones, which were alio Iquared ; and one of them meafured four feet feven inches by two feet four. Such a ftrudure, raifed without the aflift- ance of iron tools to ihape the ftones, or mortar to join them, ftnick us with aftoniftiment : it feemed to be as com pad and firm as it could have been made by any workman in Europe, except that the fteps, which range along its greateft length, are not perfectly ftrait, but link in a kind of hollow in the middle, fo that the whole fur- face, from end to end, is not a right line, but a curve. "^The quarry ftones, as we faw no quarry in the neigh- bourhood, muft have been brought from a confiderable diftance ; and there is no method of conveyance here but by hand : the coral muft alfo have been hfhed from under the water, where, though it may be found in pWnty, it lies at a confiderable depth, never lefs than three feet. Both the rock ftone and the coral could be I'quared only by tools made of the fame fubftance, which muft have been a work of incredible labour ; but the poliftiing was more eafily effedled by means of the ftiarp coral fand, which is found every where upon the fea- Ihore in great abundance, lii the middle of the top ftooti the image of a bird, carved in wood ; and near it lay the broken one of a fifli, carved in ftone. The whole of this pyramid made part of one fide of a fpa- cious area or fquare, nearly of equal fides, being three hundred and fixty feet by three hundred and fifty-four, which was walled in with ftone, and paved with flat ftones in its whole extent j though there were growing ; Vol.l.-N<>4: U in »54 CAPTAIN COOICs FISRT VOYAGE. in it, notwithftanding the pavement, feveral of the trees which they call Etoa^ and plantains. About an hundred yards to the weft of this building, was another paved area or court, in which were feveral fmall ftages raifed on wooden pillars, about feven feet high, which are called by the Indians Ewattas^ and feem to be a kind of altars, as upon thefe are placed provifions of all kinds as offerings to their gods ; we have fince feen whole hogs placed upon them, and we found here the fculls of above lifty, belides the fculls of a great number of dogs. Thtr principal objefl: ofambition among thele people is to have a niagnihcent Moral, and this was a (Iriking memorial of the rank and power of Oberea. It has been remarked, that we did not find her invefted with the fame authority that fhe exercifed when the Dolphin was at this place, and we now learnt the reafon of it. Our ivay from her houfe to the Morai lay along the fea-fide, ana we obferved every where under our feet a great number of human bones, chiefly ribs and vertebrae. Upon enquiring into the caufe of fo fingular an appear- ance, we were told, that in the then laft month ot Owa- rahew^ which anfwered to our December, 1 768, about four or five months before our arrival, the people of Tiarrabou, the S. E. peninfula which we had juft vifil- ed, made a defcent on this place, and killea a great number of people, whofe bones were thofe that we faw upon the fhore : that, upon this occafion, Oberea, and Oamo, who then adminiftered the government for her fon, had fled to the mountains ; and that the conquer- ors burnt all the houfes, which were very large, and car- ried away the hogs and what other animals they found. We learnt aUb, that the turkey and goofe, which we had feen when we were with Mathiabo, the fl:ealer of cloaks, were among the fpoils ; this accounted for their being found among peoj)ie with whom the Dolphin had little or no communication ; and upon mentioning the jaw- bones, which we had feen hanging from a board in a long houfe, we were told, that they alfo had been car- ried away as trophies, the people h^re carrying away the I CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. '5f jaw-bone8 of their enemies, as the Indians of North America do the fcalps. After having thus gratified our curiofity, we return* ed to our quarters, where we pafled the night in per- fect fccurity and quiet. B^r the next evening wc ar- rived at Atahourou, the reiitience of our friend Toota- iiah, where, the laft time we palled the night under his protedion, we had been obliged to leave the heft part of our clothes behind us. This adventure, however, feem- ed now to be forgotten on both lides. Our friends re^ reived us with great pleafure, and gave us a good fup- per and a good lodging, where we fuffered neither lofa or difturbance. The next day, Saturday, July the ift, we got back to our fort at Matavai, having found the circuit of the ifland, including both peninfulas, to be about th.*rty leagues. Upon our conipladning of the want of bread-* fruit, we were told, that the produce of the laft feafon was nearly exhaufted ; and that what was feen forout-c ing upon the trees, would not be fit to ufe in left than three months ; this accounted for our having been able '.0 procure fo litde of it in our route. Wh^ile the bread-fruit is ripening upon the flats, the inhabitants are fupplied in fome meafure from the treest which they have planted upon the hiUs to preferve a f cceflipn ; but the quaatity is not fuifficient to prevent fqarcity ; they live therefore upon the four pafte which they call MabiCy upon wild plantains, and ahee-nuts^ which at this dme are in perfedion. How it happen- ed that the Dolphin, which was here at this (eafon, I found fuch plenty of bread-fruit upon the trees, I can* not tell, except the leafon in which they ripen varies. At our return, our Indian friends croiided about us, and none of them came empty- handed^ Though I had jdetermined to reftore the canoes which had been detain* jed to their owners, it had not yet been done ; but I now releafed them as they were applied for. Upon this oc- :afion I could not but renaark with, concern, that thcfo )eople were capa^e of pradifing petty frauds againft V Z each 1S6 CAPTAIN COOK'a FIRST VOYAGE. I each other, with a deliberate tliftioncfty, which gavr mo a much worfc opinion of them than I had ever en* tertaincd from the robberies they committed under the Ih'ong temptation to whicli a huhlen opportunity of en- riching themfelves with the inellimablc metal and ma- nufadures of Europe expofetl them. Among others who applied to me for the releafeofa canoe, was one Potattow, a man of fome conlc- <|uencc, well known to us all. 1 coiirented, luppolirg the vcU'el to be his own, or that he applied in the behalf of a friend : he went immediately to the bcjxch, and took poUeihon of one of the boats, which, with the af- ii {lance his people, lie began to carry off. Upon this, however, it was eagerly claimed by the right owntTS, who^ fupported by the other Indians, clamoroufly re- proached him for invading their property, and prepared to take the canoe from Iiim by force. Upon this, he delired to be lieard, and told them, that the canoe did, indeed, once belong to thole w'ho claimed it ; but that I, having feized it as a forfeit, had ibid it to him for a pig. This filenced the clamour, the owners, knowing that fi-om my power there was no appeal, acquiefced ; and Potattow would have carried off his prize, if the dif- pute had not fortunate!y been overheard by fome of our people who reported it to me. I gave orders immedi- ately that the Indians ihould be undeceived ; upon which the right owners took poU'eflion of was robbed of his knife, and endeavouring to re- cover it, probably with circumflances of great provo- cation, the Indians attacked him, and dangeroufly '"wounded him with a flone ; they wounded his com- panion alfo flighify in the head, and then fled into the mountains. *As 1 fhould have been forry tp take any farther notice of the affair^ 1 was not difpleafed that the offenders had efcaped ; but I was immediately involved in a quarrel which I very much regretted, and which yet it was not poffible to avoid In the middle of the night between the 8th and 9th, Clement Webb and Samuel Gibfon, two of the marines, both young men, went privately from the fgrt, and in the CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. i€s the morning were not to be found. As public notice had been given, that all hands were to go on board on the next day, and that the fliip would fail on the mor- row of that day or the day following, I began to fear that the abfentees intended to (lay bt^hind. I knew that I could take no effedual fteps to recover them, without endangering tlie harmony and good- will which at pre- i'ent fubfifted among us ; and, therefore, determined to wait a day for the chance of their return. On Monday morning the loth, the niarines, to my great concern, not bemg returned, an enquiry was made after them of the Indians, who frankly told us, that they did not intend to return, and had taken re- fuge in the mountains, where it was impoffible for our people to find them. They Were then requefted to af-^ lift m the fearch, and after fome deliberation, two of them undertook to conduct fuch perfons as I fhould think proper to fend after them to the place of their re- treat. As they were known to be without arms, I thought two would be fufficient, and accordingly dii- patched a petty officer, and the corporal of the marinesj with the Indian guides, to fetch them back. As the 5 recovery of thefe men was a matter of great importance, as 1 had no time to loffe, and as the Indians fpoke doubt- fully of their return, telling us, that they had each of them taken a wife, and were become inhabitants of the country, it was intimated tofeveral of the Chiefs who were in the fort with their women, among whom were Tubourai Tamaide,Tomio, andOberea, that they would not be permitted tQ. leave it till our deferters were brought back. This precaution I thought the more ne- ceiTary, as, by concealing them a few days, they might . compel me to go without them ; and I had the plealurC; to obferve, that they received the intimation with very little figns either of fear or difcontent ; alluring me tliat my people fhould be fecurcd and fent back as foon a% poflible. While this was doing at the fort, I fent Mr Hicks in the pinnace to fetch Tootahah on board the, (hip, which he did, without alarming either him or Vol.I.~N°5. X hi^ 1 62 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. / his people. If tlie Indian guides proved faithful and la earneft, I had rcafon to expe<^t the return of my peo- ple with the defcrters hefore evening. Being difap- rcinted, my fufpicions increafcd ; and night coming on, thought it was not fafe to let the people whom I had detained as hoftages continue at the fort, and I there- fore ordered Tubourai Tamaide, Oberea, and fome others, to be taken on board the ihip. This fpread a general alarm, and feverai of them, eipecially the wo- men, cxpredt^d their apprehenfions with great emotion and many tears when they were put into the boat, f went on board with them, and Mr Banks remained on fhore, with ibmc others whom I thought it of Icfs con- fequence to fecure. About nine o'clock, Webb was brought back by fome of the natives, w^ho declared, that Gibibn, and the petty officer and corporal, would be detained till Toota- hah (hould be fet at liberty. The tables were now turned upon me ; but I had proceeded too far to retreat. I immediately difpatched Mr Hicks in the long-boat, with a ftrong party of men, to refcue the prifoners, and told Tootahah that it behoved him to fend fome of his people with them, with orders to afford them effedual aififtance, and to demand the releafe of my men in his name, for that I fliould expevll: him to anfwer for the contrary. He readily complied ; this paity recovered my men without the leall oppoiition ; and about feven o'clock in the morning, returned with them to the ihip, though they had not been able to recover the arms "which had been taken from them when tiiey v^'ere feized : thefe, however, were brought on board in lefs than half an hour, and the Chiefs were immediately fet ^liDerty. When I queftioned the pett} )flicer concerning "what had happened on Ihore, he told me, that neither the natives who went withlilm., nor thofe whom they met in their way, would give them any intelligence of the defertcrs ; but, on the contrary, became very trouble- fome: that, as he was returning for further orders to the .^■^ : "■ *»..'a... ■'*'-w5., ■ffc'>"t - CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 162 the fhip, he and his comrade were fuddenly feized by a number of armed men, who having learnt that Toota- hah was confined, had concealed thcmfelves in a wood fcr that purpofe, and, who having taken them at a dif- advantaj^e, forced their weapons out of their hands, and declared, that tliey would detain them till their Chief fliould he iet at liberty. lie faid, however, that the In- dians were not unanimous in this meafure ; that fome were for letting them at lii^erty, and others for detiin- inp; them : that an eager difpute eniued, srnd that from v.'ords they came to blows, but that the party for de- taining them at length prevailed : that foon after, Webb and Giblbn were brought in by a party of the natives^ as priloncrs, that they alfo might be fccured as hofiages for the Chief; but that it was after fome debate refolved tofenil Webb to inform me of their refolution, to alFure me that his companions were iafe, and dired: me where I might lend my anfwer. Thus it appears that what- ever wen: the difadvantages of feizing the Chiefs, I fhould never have recovered my men by any other me- thod. When the Chiefs were fet on fliore from the Ihip, thofe at the fort were alfo fet at liberty, and, after ftaying with Mr Banks about an hour, they all went away. Upon this occafion, as they had done upoa another of the fame kind, they expreiTed their joy by an undeferved liberality, ftrongly urging us to accept of four hogs. Thefe we abfoluteiy refuted as a prefent, and they as abfoluteiy refufmg to be paid for them, the hogs did not change raafters. Upon examining the deierters, we found that the account which the Indians had given of them was true : they had ftrongly at- tached themfelves to two girls, and it was their inten- tion to conceal themfelves till the fhip had failed, and take up their reiidence upon the ifland. This night every thing was got off from the (hove, and every body llept on board. Among the natives who were almoft conftantly with us, was Tupia, whofe name has been often mentioned' in this narrative. He had been, as I have before ob- X z ferved, 1(54 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGt. fervcd, the firfl: minifter of Oberea, when fhe was in the height of her power : he was alfo the chief Taho- wa or prieft of the illand, confequently well acquainted with the religion of the country, as well with refpeiSl to its ceremonies as principles. He had alfo great ex- f)ericnce and knowledge in navigation, and was particu- arly acquainted with, the number and iituation of the nejfi;hbouring iflands. This man had often exprefled a delire to go with us, and on the 1 2th in the morning, having with the other natives left us the day before, he came on board, with a boy about thirteen years of age, his iervant, and urged us to let him proceed with us on our voyage. To have fuch a perfon on board, was cer- tainly delirable for many reafons ; by learning his lan- guage, and teaching him ours, we fliould be able to ac- quire a much better knowledge of the cuftoms, policy, and religion of the people, than our (hort ftay among them could give us, I therefore gladly agreed to receive them on board. As we were prevented from failing to- day, by having found it neceflary to make new ftocks to our fmafl and beft bower anchors, the old ones ha- ving been totally deftroyed by the worms, Tupia faid, he would go once more on fhore, and make a fignal for the boat to fetch him off in the evening. He went accordingly, and took with him a miniature pidlure of Mr Banks's, to ihew his friends, and feveral little things to give them as parting prefents. After dinner, Mr Banks being defirous to procure a drawing of the Morai belonging to Tootahah at B-parre, 1 attended him thither, accompanied by Dr SoUnider, in the pinnace. As loon as we landed, many of ourfriendi? ' cnmc to meet us, though fome abfented themfelves ia refeutment of what had happened the day before, Wc immediately proceeded to Tootahah's houfe, where we were joined by Oberea, with feveral others who had not come out to meet us, and a perfect reconciliation was foon brought about ; in confequence of which they pro- mil'ed to vifit us ^arly the next day, to take a laft lare- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGK. i6s wel of us, as we told them we fhould certainly fet fail in the afternoon. At this J)lace alfo we found Tupia, who returned with us, and flept this night on board the fhip for the firft time. On the next morning, Thurfday the 13th of July, the fliip was very early crouded with our friends, and iurrounded by a multitude of canoes, which were filled with the natives of an inferior clafs. Between eleven and twelve we weighed anchor, and as foon as the fhip was under fail, the Indians on board took their leaves, and wept, with a decent and filent forrow, in which there was fomething very ftriking and tender : the people ia the canoes, on the contrary, feemed to vie with each other in the loudnefs of their lamentations, which we confidered rather as affectation than grief Tupia fiil^ tained himfelf in this fcene with a firmnefs and refolu- tion truly admirable : he wept indeed, but the effort that he made to conceal his tears, concurred, with them, to do him honour. He fent his laft prcfent, a (hirt, by Othcothea, to Potomai, Tootahah's favourite miftrefs, and then went with Mr Banks to the maft-head, wav- ing to the canoes as long as they continued in (ight. Thus we took leave of Otaheite, and its inhabitants, after a ftay of juft three months ; for much the greater part of the time we lived together in the moft cordial iriendAiip, and a perpetual reciprocation of good offi- ces. 1 he accidental differences which now and then happened, could not be more fmcerely regretted on their paA than they were on ours; the principal c^ufes w^i-e fuch as neceflarily refulted from our fitua- tiavUoul.iily <.l''r>:rlbed, where there i*^ vooiu :'.nd depth of water for any r.uiribcr of the largeft fnips. Port-Rcyal bay, called by tiie na- tives Matavia, which is not inferior to any in Otaheite, may eaiily be known b)^ a very high mountain in the middle of the ifland, v/hich bears due fouth from Point Venus. To fail into it, cither keep the well point of the reef that lies before Point Venus, clofc on board, or give it a birth of near half a mile, in order to ivcid a fmall (hoal of coral rocks, on which there is but two fathom and a half of water. The heft anchoring is on the eaflern fide of the bay, where there is fixteen and fourteen fatbom upon an oozy bottom. The (hore of the bay is a line fandy beacli, behind which runs a river of frefh water, \o that any number of fliips may water here without incommoding each other ; but the only wood for-Mring, upon the whole ifland, is that of fruit trees, which mull be purchafed of the natives, or all hope of living upon good terms with them given up. ...'*'' The face of the country, except that part of it which borders upon the fea, is very uneven ; it riles in ridges that run up into the middle of the ifland, and there form mountains,^ which may befeen at the drflance of fixty miles : between the foot of thefe ridges and the fea, is a border of low land, furrounding the whole ifland, ex- cept in a few places where the ridges rife dire£l}y from the fea : the border of low land is in dilTcrent parts of different breadths, but no where more than a mile and a half. The foil, except upon the very tops of tbe ridges, is extremely rich and fertile, watered by a grcjit number of rivulets of excellent wateT, and covered with fruit trees of various kinds, Ibme of w^hich are of a (late- ly growth and thick foliage, fo as to form one continu- ed wood ; and even the tops of the ridges, though in ' general i68 CAPTAIN COOK»s FIRST VOYAGE. general they are bare, and burnt up by the fun, are, in lome part', not without their produce. The low land that lies between the foot of the ridges and the P;a, and fome of the vallies, are the only parts of the ifland that are inhabited, and here it is populous ; the houfes do not form villages or towns, but are ranged along the whole border at the diftance of about hfty yards from each other, with little plantations of plan- tains, the tree which furnilhes them with cloth. The whole ifland, according to Tupia's account, who cer- ti-unly kiew, could furnifh fix thoufand feven hundred and eighty fighting men, from which the number of inhabitants may ealily be computed. The produce of this ifland is bread-fruit, cocoa-nut§, bananas, of thii*teen forts, the beft we had ever eaten ; plantains ; a fruit not unlike an apple, which;when ripe, IS very pleafant ; fweet potatoes, yams, cocoas, a kind o^Arum ; a fruit known here by the name of Jambu^ and reckoned moll delicious ; fugar cane, which the inhabitants eat raw ; a root of the falop kind, called by the inhabitants Pea ; a plant called Ethee^ of which the root only is eaten ; a fruit that grows in a pod, like that of a large kidney-bean, which, when it is roafted, eats very much like a chefnut, by the natives called Ahee ; a tree called Wharra^ called in the Eaft Indies Pandanes, which produces fruit, fomething like the pine-apple ; a (hrub called Nono ; the Morinda, which alfo produces fruit ; a fpecies of fern, of which the root is eaten, and fometimes the leaves ; and a plant called Theve, of which the root alfo is eaten : but the fruits of the Nono^ the fern, and the Theve^ are eaten only by the inferior people, and in times of fcarcity. All thefe, which ferve the inhabi- tants for frjod, the earth produces fpontaneoufly, or with fo litde culture, that they feem to be exempted from the firft general curie, that ** man fhould eat his bread in the fweat of his brow." They have alfo the Chinefc paper mulberry, morus papyrWera^ which they call Aouti a tree refembling the wild fig-tree of the Weft Indies j another ipecies of fig, which they call Matte ; the mdm * , febeji'm CAPT.MN CvOOK's FIRST ^^OYAGE. 169 fthcjiha orkntalh^ which they call £/fl«/ akindcfCy- pcrusgrars, which tlicy call A/od/ a fpecics oitoumcfLr^ i'lay which they call Tohciti'.o ; another c^ \\\c convolvulus pclucc^ which they call Eurhc ; the Jllanum ccntifoUum^ which they call Ebooa ; llie calopbyllum fuophylum which they call Tamannu ; tlic hibifcui iiliaccus called Paerou^ a frutefccnt nettle ; the urt'ua argenica^ called Erowa; with many other plants which cannot here be particuJarlv inenrioneJ. They have no European fruit, garden (luff*, pul'e, or legumes, nor grain of any kind. Of tame animals they have only hog'^, dogs, and poultry ; neither is there a wild animal in the ifland, ex- cept ducks, pigeons, paroquets, with a few other birds, and rats, there bein^ no other quadruped, nor any fer- pent. l>ut the fea kipplies them with great variety of moft excellent hfli, to eat which is their chief luxuVy, and to catch it their principal labour. As to the people they are of the largeft fize of Euro- peans. The men are tall, ftron^, weil-limbed, and finely fliaped. The talleft that we iaw was a man upon a neighbouring ifland, called Huakein£, who rnea- fured fix feet three inches and a half. The women of the fuperior rank are alfo in general above our middle llature, but thofe of the inferior clafs are rather below it, and fome of them are very fmall* This defeCtiri lize probably proceeds from their early commerce with, men, the only thing in which they differ from their fu- periors, that could poflibly affene inftance to the contrary. Some old men had the greateft part of their bodies covered with large patches of black, deeply indented at the edges, like a rude imi- tation of flame ; but we were told, that they came froni a low ifland called NoouooRA, and were not natives of Otaheite. Mr Banks faw the operation oitaitowing performed upon the backiide of a girl about thirteen years old. The inftrumcnt ufed upon tliis occafion had thirty teeth, and every ftroke, of which at leaft a hundred were made in a minute, drew an ichor or ferum a litde tin- ged with blood. The girl bore it with moft ftoical re- foUition for about a quarter of an hour ; but the pain of fo many hundred pimdures as (he had received in that time then became intolerable ; ilie firft complained in mur- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. '73 murmurs, then wept, and at lafl burfl into loud lamen- tations, earneftly imploring the operator to defift. lie Avas, howevtr, inexorable ; and when {he began to {^ruggle, fhe was held down by two women, who fomc- times ibothed and lomeiimes chid her, and now and then, when (he was moft unruly, gave her a fmart blow. Mr Banks (laid in a neighbouring houfe an hour, and the operation was not over when he v;ent away ; yet it v/as performed but upon one fide, the oth.er hav- ing been done fometime before ; and the arches upon tlie loins, in which they moft pride themfelves, and wliich give more pain than all the reil, were itill to le done. It is ftrange that theTe people fhould value thetiifelves upon what is no dillindlion ; for I never faw a native of this iflandi either man or woman, in a ftate of ma- turity, in whom thefe marks were wanting: poflibly they may have their rife in fuperftition, cfpecially as they produce no vifible advantage, and are not mado without great pain ; but thougti we enquired of many hundreds, we could never g;et any account of the matter. ' • . " Their clothing confifts of cloth or matting of differ-^ cnt kinds, which will be defcribed among their other Uiinufadures. The cloth, which will not be^r wetting, they wear in dry weather, and the matting when it rains ; they are put on in many different ways, juft as their fancy leads them ; for in their garments nothing is cut into (hape, nor are any two pieces fewed toge- ther. The drefs of the better fort ot women confifts of three or four pieces: one piece, about two yards wide and eleven yards long, they wrap feveral times round their waift, fo as to hang down like a petticoat as low as the middle of the leg, and this they call Parcu : two or three other pieces, about two yards and an half long and one wide, each having a hole cut in the mid- dle, they nlace one upon another, and then putting the head through the holes, they bring the long ends down I before and behind 3 the others remain open at the fides, au4 »74 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. and give liberty to their arms : this, which they call the fTcbuia^ is ^atliered round the waift, and confined with a girdle or laih of thinner cloth, which is long enough to go many times round tl^cm, and exactly refembles ,the garment worn by the inhabitants of Peru and Chili, which the Spaniards call Poncho, The drefs of the men is the fame, except that infiead of fufFering the cloth that is wound about the hips to hang down like a petticoa):, they bring it between their legs fo as to have fome re- femblance to breeches, and it is then called Maro. This is the drefs of all ranks of people, and being univerially the fame as to form, the gentlemen and ladies diftinguilh themfelves from the lower people by the quantity; fome of them< will wrap round them feveral pieces of clotli, eight or ten yards long, and tv/o or three broad ; and fome throw a large piece loofcly over their flioul- ders in the manner of a cloak, or perhaps two pieces, if they are very great perfonages, and are defirous to ap- pear in ftate. The inferior fort, Vv-ho have only a fmall allowance of cloth from the tribes or families to which they belong, are obliged to be more thinly clad. In the heat of the day they appear almoft naked, the wo- men have only a fcanty petticoat, and the men nothing but the fafli that is palfed between their legs and faftcncd round the waift. As finery is always troublefome, and particularly in a hot country, T'^here it confilts in put- ting one covering upon another, the women of rank always uncover themfelves as low as the waift in the evening, throwing oiY all that they wear on the upper part of the body, with the fame negligence and eale aa our ladies would lay by a cardinal or double handker- chief. And the Chiefs, even when thev vifited us, though they had as much cloth round their middle as would clothe a dozen people, had frequently the reft of the body quite naked. Upon their legs and feet they wear no covering ; but they fhade their faces from the fun with little bonnets, cither of matting or of cocoa-nut leaves, which they jnake opcafionally in a few minutes. This, however, i^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. »75 is not all their head-drefs ; the women fometiaics wear little turbans, and foinetimes a drefs which they value much more, and which, indeed, is much more beco- ming, called Tonioii ; t^lie Tomou confifts of human hair, pl'iited in threads, fcarcely thicker than fewing filk. Mr Banks {i;ot pieces of it above a mile irt length, without a knot* Thefe they wind round the head in fuch a man- ner as produces a very pretty efte^H:, and in a very great quantity ; for I have feen five or fix fuch pieces wound about the head of one woman : among thefe threads they ftic!' flowers of various kinds, particularly the cape-jefTamine, of which they have great plenty, as it is always planted near the'r houfes. The men fome- tinies flick the tail feather of the Tropic-bird upright 'tx their hair, which, as I have obferved before, is often tied in a bunch upon the top of their heads : fometimes they wear a kind of whimiical garland, made of flowers of various kinds, ftuck into a piece of the rind of a plan- tain ; or of fcarlet peas, iluck with gum upon a piece of v»'Ood : and fometimes they wear a kind of wig, made of the hair of men or dogs, or perhaps of cccoa-nuc ftrings, woven upon one thread, which is tied under their hair, fo that thefe artificial honours of their head may hang down behind. Their perfonal ornaments, belidcs flowers, are few ; both fexes wear ear-rings, but they are placed only on one fide : when we came they confided of fmall pieces of (liell, ftone, berries, red peas, or foine fmall pearls, three in a firing j but our beads very foon fupplanted them all. The children go quite naked ; the girls till they are three or four years old, and the boys till they are fix or feven. The houfes, or rather dwellings of thel^i people have jjeen occafionally mentioned before : they are all Built ^n the wood, between the fea and the mountains and nu more ground is cleared for each houfe, than juft fuf^ Ijcient to prevent the dropping of the branches from rot- ting Lie thatch with which they are covered ; from the houfe, therefore, the inhabitant fteps immediately under the »7< CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. '' the (hade, which is the moft delightful that can be Ima- gined. It confifts of groves of bread-fruit and cocoa- n"ts, without underwood, which are interfec^cd, in all diredions, by the paths that lead from one houfe to the other. Nothing can be more grateful ^.han this fi^.ade , in fo warm a climate, nor any thing more beautiful liian thefe walks. As there is no underv^'ood, the iliade cools without impeding the air ; and the houfes, having no walls, receive the gale from whatever point it blows. I fliall now give a particular dcfcription of a houfe of a middling lize, from wlilch, as the llrudlure is univcr- fally the fame, a perfect idea may be formed both of .thofe that arc bigger, and thofe that are kfs. ' * The ground which it covers is an oblong fquare, four and twenty feet long, and eleven wide ; over this a roof IS raifcd, upon three rows of pillars or pofts, parallel to each other, one on each fide, and the other in the mid- dle. This roof ccnfiftsof two flat fides inclining to each other, and terminating in a ridge, exa^ly like the roofs of our thatched houfes in England. The utmoft height within is about nine feet, and eaves on each fide reach to within about three feet and an half of the ground : below this, and through the whole height at each end, it is open, no part of it being inclofed with a wall. The roof is thatched with palm-leaves, and the floor is co- vered, ihrne inches deep, with foft hay ; over this drs laid mats, fo that the whole is one cufhion, upon whicli they fit in the day, and fleep in the night. In fome houfes, however, there is one flool, which is wholly appropriated to the mailer of the family ; behdes this, they have no furniture, except a few little blocks of wood, the upper fide of which is hollowed into a cu'*ve, and which feive them for pillows. Tlie houfe is indeed principally ufed as a dormitory; for, except it rains, they eat in the open air, under the fhade of tlie next tree. The clothes that they wear in the day, ferve them for covering in the night ; the floor is the common bed of the whole houiehold, and is not divided by any partition. The mailer of the houfe and ^ ~ . ~ ■ hi* CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. »77 his wife fleq> in the middle, next to them the married people, next to them the unmarried women ; and next to them, at a little diflance, the unmarried men ; the fer- vants, or Touious^ as they are called, fleep in the open air, except it rains, and in that cafe they come juft with- in the died. There are, however, houfes of another kind, belong- ing to the Chiefs, in which there is fome degree of pri- vacy. T'hefe are much fmaller, and fo conftru^led a$ to be carried about in their canoes from place to place, and fet up occaficnally, like a tent ; they are inclofed on the (ides witli cocoa-nut leaves, but not i'o clofe as tp exclude the air, and the Chief and his wife fleep in them alone. There are houfes alfo of a much larger fize, not built either for the accommodation of a lingle Chief, or a fmgle family ; but as common receptacles for all the people of a diftrid. Some of them are two hundred feet long, thirty broad, and, under the ridge, twenty feet high ; theie arc built and maintained at the common expence of the diftridl, for the accommodation of which they are Intended ; and have on one iide of them a large area, inclofed with low pallifadoes. Thefe houfes, like thofe of feparate families, have no walls. Privacy, iTidced, is little wanted among people who have not even the idea of indecency, antl who gra- tify every appetite and paffion before witneflTeSjWith no more fenfe of impropriety than we feel when wc fatis- fy our hunger at a focial board with our family oi: friends. Thofc who have no idea of indecency with refpeft to actions, can have none with refpe£t to words ; it is, therefore, fcarcely neceflary to obferve, that, in the converfation of thefe people, that which Is the principal fource of their pleafure, is always the principal topic y and that every tmng is mentioned without any reilraint or emotion, and in the moft dire<3; terms, by both fexes. Of the food eaten here the greater part is veeetaJbfe* Here are no tame animals except hogs, dogs, and pouU 178 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. try, as Ihave obferved bef(>re, and thefe are by no means })lent^. When a Chief kills a hog, it is almoft equal- y divided among his dependants ; and as they are very numerous, tlie (hare of each individual at thefe feafts, which are not frequent, muft neceflarily be fmall. Dogs and fowls fall fomewhat more frequently to the fhare of the common people. 1 cannot much com- mend the flavour of their flowls ; but we all agreed^ that a South-Sea dog was little inferior to an Englifh lamb ; their excellence is probably owing to their being kept up, and fed wholly upon vegetables. The fea affords them a great variety of li(h. The fmaller fifh, when they catch any, are generally eaten raw, as we eat oyfters ; and nothing that the fea produces comes amifs to them : they are fond of lobfters, crabs, and other ihell-fi(h, which are found upon the coaft ; and they will eat not only fea-infeds, but what the feameii call 'Slubbers y though fome of them are fo tough, that they are obliged to uiffer them to become putrid before they can be chewed. Of the many vegetables that have been mentioned already as ferving them for food, the prin- cipal is the bread-fruit, to procure which cofts them no trouble or labour but climbing a tree : the tree which produces it, does not indeed £hoot up Ijpontaneoufly \ but if a man planta ten of them in his lire-time, which he may do in about an hour, he will as completely ful- fil his duty to his own and future generations, as the native of our lefs temperate climate can do by ploughr ing in the cold of winter, and reaping in the fummer's heat, as often as thefe feafons return ; even if, after he has procured bread for his prefent houfhold, he Ihould convert a furplus into money, and lay it up for his chi'dren. . • It is true, indeed, that the bread-fruit is not always In feafon ; but cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, and a great variety of other fruits, fupply the deficiency. It may well be fuppoted, that cookery is but little ftudied by thefe people as an art ; and, indeed, thej have but two ways of applying fire to dr^fs their fooo, . broil- CAPTAIN COOK'b first VOYAGE. «79 broiling and baking; the operation of broiling is fo fnnple, that it requires no defcription, and their ba- king has been delcribed already, in the account of an eniertainment prepared for us by Tupia. Hogs, and large filh, are extremely well drefled in the fame manner; and, in our opinion, were more juicy and more equally done than by any art of cookery now pradifed in Europe. Bread-fruit is alfo cooked in an oven of the fame kind, which renders it foft, and fome- thing like a boiled potatoe ; not quite fo farinaceous as a good one, but more fo than thofe of the middling fort. ^ • Of the bread-fruit they alfo make three dilhes, by putting either water or tne milk of the cocoa-nut to it, then beating it to a parte with a ftone pcftle, and after- wards mixing it with ripe plantains, bananas, or the four parte which they call Mahie, The mahie, which has been mentioned as a facceda- neum for ripe bread-fruit, before the (vere at the ifland^ they were icarcely ripe enough for th? purpofe. For clrink, they have in general nothing but water, or the juice of the cocoa-nut ; the art of producing U(|UCrs that intoxicate, by fermentation, being happily un» CAPTAIN COO^'i FIRST VOYAGE. i8i unknown among them ; neither have they any narcotic which they chew, as the natives of fome other countries do opium, beetle-root, and tobacco. Some of them drank freely of our liquors, and in a few inf^ances be- •ame very drunk : but the perfons to whom this hap- pened were fo far from defiring to repeat the debaucn, that they would never touch any of our liquors after- wards. We were however informed, that they became drunk by drinking a juice that is exprelled from the leaves of a plant which they call j^va Ava, This plant was not in leafon when we were there, fo that wc faw no inftances of its effects ; and as they coniidered drunk- cnnels as a difgrace, they probably would have conceal- ed from us any inftances which might have happened during our ftay. This vice is almoft peculiar to the Chiefs, and confiderable perfons, who vie with each- other in drinking the greateft number of draughts, each draught being about a pint. They keep this intoxica- ting juice with great care from their women. Table they have none j but their apparatus for eating is fet out with great neatnefs, though the arricles are too fimple and too few to allow any thing for ihew : and they commonly eat alone; but when a ftranger hajDpens to vifit them, he fometimes makes a feCond in their mefs. Of the meal of one of their principal peo^ pie I (hall give a particular defcription. He fits down under the (hadq of the next tree, or on the fhady fide of his houfe, and a large quantity of leaves either of the bread-fruit or banana, are neatly fpread before him. upon the ground as a table-cloth ; a balket is then fet by him that contains his provifion, which, if fifti or fiefti, is ready drefled, and w/'apped up in leavfes, and two cocoa-nut (hells, one full of wit water and the other of frefti : his attendant**, which are not few, feat themfelves round him, and when all is ready, he begins by w.; ihiug his hands and mouth thoroughly with the fre(h-w ater, and this he repeats almoft conti- nually throughout the whole meal ; he then takes part of his provifion out of the basket, which generally con- fifts ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) h // ^ >% /° ^<^>' ) \ s V «^ i8l CAPTAIN COOIC's FIRST VOYAGE. lifts of a fmall filTi or two, two or three bread-fruits, fourteen or fifteen ripe bananas, or iix or feven apples : he firft takes half a bread-fruit, peels off the rind, and takes out the core with his nails ; of this he puts as much into his mouth as it can hold, and while he chews it takes the fifh out of the leaves^ and breaks one of them into the fait water, placing the other, and what re- mains of bread-fruit, upon the leaves that have been ipread before him. When this is done, he takes up a fmall piece of the fifh that has been broken into the fait- water, with all the fingers of one hand, and fucks it into his mouth, fo as to get with it as much of the falt- water as pofTible : in the fame manner he takes the reft by different, morfels, and between each, at leaft very frequently,takcs a fmall fup of the fait water, either out of the cocoa-nut fliell, or the palm of his hand: in the mean time one of his attendants has prepared a young cocoa- nut, by peeling off the outer rind with his teeth, an operation which, to an European, appears very fur- prifing ; but it depends fo much upon flight, that many of us were able to do it before we left the ifland, ani fome that could fcarcely crack a filbert : the mailer, when he diulcs to drink, takes the cocoa-nut thus pre- pared, and boring a hole through the fliell with his fin- ger, or breaking it with a ftone, he fucks out the liquor. When he has eaten his bread-fruit and iifh, he begins with his plantains, one of which makes but a mouth- ful, though it be as big as a black-pudding ; if inftead of plantains he has apples, he never taftes them till they liave been pared ; to do this a ihell is picked up from the ground, where they arc always in plenty, and tol- fed to him by an attendant : he immediately begins to cut or fcrape off the rind, but fo awkwardly that great part of the fruit is wafted. If, inftead of nfti, he has flefli, he muft have fome fuccedaneum for a knife to di- vide it ; and for this purpofe a piece of bamboo is tofl'ed to him, of which he makes the neceffary impiement by fpHtting it tranfverfely with liis nail. While all this has been doing, fome of his attendants have been chk ployed CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. iS ployed in beating bread-fruit witb a ftone peftle upon a block of wood ; by being beaten in tbis manner., and fprinkled from time to time witli water, it is re- duced to the confiftence of a foft parte, and is then put into a velfel fomewhat like a butcher's tray, and eitner made up alone, or mixed with banana or mahic, ac- cording to the tafte of the mafter, by pouring wafer up^ on it by degrees and fqueezing it often through the hand : under this operation it acquires the connftence of a thick cuftard, and a large cocoa-nut Ihell full of it being fet before him, he Tips it as we would do a jelly if if we had no fpoou to take it from the glafs : the meal is then fini(hed by again walhirq: his hands and his mouth. After which the cocoa-nut (hells are cleaned, and every thing that is left is replaced in the bafket. The quantity of food which thefc people eat at a meal is prodigious ; I have feen one man devour two or three fillies as big as a perch ; three bread-fruits, each bigger than two fifls ; fourteen or fiftecq plantaias or bananas, each of them fix or feven incbes long,*^nd ^fo6r or* "five round ; and near a quart of the pourxled bread-^&nit) which is as fubftantial as the thickcft unbaked cuilard; This is fo extraordinary that I fcarcely expe^ to be be- lieved ; and 1 would not have related it upon ipy bwn fingle teftimony, but Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and moft of the other Gentlemen, have had ocular demonftra- tion of its truth, and know that I mention them iipon the occafion. It is very wonderful, that thefe people, who are re- markably fond of fociety, and particularly that of their women, fhould exchide its pi'eafures from the table, where among all other nations, whether civil or lavage, they have been principally enjoyed. How a meal, which every wlicre elfe brings famiiiei^ and friends to- • gether, came to feparate them here, v/e often enquired, but could never learn. They eat alone, they faid, be* caufc it was right ; but w^iy it was right to eat alone, they never attempted to tell us: fuch, however, was the force of habit, that they exprefTed the ftrongcft difljke, and It4 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. and even difgufl, at our eating in focictv, eipecially with our women, and of the fame viduals. At firft, wc thought this (Grange fmgularity arofe from fome fuper- ilitious opinion ; out they conftantl)r affirmed the con- trary. We obferved aifo fome caprices in the cuftom, for which we could as little account as for the cuflom itfel£ We could never prevail with any of the women to partake of the viduals at our table when we were di- ning in company ; yet they would go, five or fix toge- ther, into the fervants apartments;, and there eat very heartily of whatever they could find, of which I have before given a particular inftance ; nor were they in the leaft dilconccrted if wc came in while they were doing it. When any of us have been alone with a woman, fhe has fometimes eaten in our company ; but then flie has exprefTed the grcatcft unwillingnefs that it fhould be known, and always extorted the ilrongeft promifes of fecrccy. Among themiclves, even two brothers and two fifters have cadi their feparate bafkets, with provifions and the apparatus of their meal. When they firft vifited us at our tents, each brought his bafket with him ; and when mt fat down to table, they would go our, fit down up- on the ground, at two or three yards diftance from each other, and turning their faces different ways, take their repail, without interchanging a fingle word. The women not only abftain from eating with the men, and of the fame victuals, but even have their vic- tuals fcparately prepared by boys kept for that purpoie, ivho depofit it in a feparate fhed, and attend tUem with Jt at their meals. , But though they would not eat with us or with each other, they have often afked us to eat with them, when we have vifited thofe with whom we were particularly acquainted at their houfes ; and we have often upon fuch occafions eaten out of the fame bafket, and drunk out of the fame cup. The elder women, however, al- ways appeared to be offended at this liberty 5 and if wc hap* CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 185 happened to touch thdr viduals, or even the bafket that contained it, would throw it away. After meals, and in the heat of the day, the middle- aged people of the better fort generally fleep ; they are indeed extremely indolent, and fleeping and eating is almoft all that they do. Thofe that are older are lefs drowzy,, and the boys and ^irls are kept awake by the natural adivity and fprightlinefs of their age. Their amufements have occafionally been mentioned in my account of the incidents that happened during our refidence in this ifland, particularly mufic, dancing, wreftling, and fliooting with the bow ; they alfo fome- times vie with each other in throwing a lance. As fhooting is not at a mark, but for diftance ; throwing the lance is not for reliance, but at a mark : the "Weapon . is about nine feet long, the mark is the bole of a plan- tain, and the diftance about twenty yards. Their only mufical inftmments are flutes and driims; the flutes are made of a hollow barriboo about a foot long, and have only two ftops, and cdtifequently but four notes, out of which they feem hitherto to haVe formed but one tune ; to tliefe fl;op8 they apply the fore finger of the left hand and the middle finger of the right. The dnim- is made of a hollow block of wood, of cy- lindrical form, folid at one end, and covered at the other V^th fhark's fkin : thefe they beat not with flicks, but theii hands ; and they know how to tune two drums of different notes into concord. They have al- fo an expedient to bring the flutes that play together in- to unifon, which is to roll up a leaf fo as to fKp over the end of the (hortefl, like our Aiding tubes for telefcopes, which they move up or down, till the purpofe is an- fwered, of which they feem to judge by their ear with great nicety. To thefe inflruments they fing ; and, as I have ob- ferved before, their fon^s are often extempore : they call every two verfes or c6uplet a fong;, Pechay ; they sffe generally, though not always in i-hime j and when VoLIv-N^^. A a pro- •»..fc 18^) CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE/ im pronounced by the natives, we could difcover that they were metre. Mr Banks took great pains to write down fome of them which were, made upon our arrival, as nearly as he could exprefs their founds by combinations of our letters ; but when we read them, not having their accent, we could fcarcely make them cither metre or rhime. The render will eafily perceive that they are of very difierent (Irudurc. , . Tede pahai de parow-a Ha maru no mina. E pahah Tayo malama tai ya No Tabane tonatou whannomi ya. * E Turai eattu terara patce whennua toai lao o maio Pretane to n^hennuaia no Tutc. Of thefe verfes our know^ledge of the language is too imperfedl to attempt a tranflation. They frequendy amiiie thcmfelves by fmging fuch couplets as thefe when they are alone, or with their families, efpecially after it is dark ; for though they need no fires, they are not without the comfort ot artificial light between fun- fet and bed-time, their candles are made of the kernels of a kind of oily nut, which they ftick one over an- other upon a fkew^r that is thruft through the middle of them ; the upper one being lighted, burns down to the fecond, at the fame time confuming that part of the fkewer which goes through it ; the fecond taking fire, burns in the fame manner down to the third, and fo of the reft : fome of thefe candles will burn a confiderable ►time, and they give a very tolerable light. They do not often fit up above an hour after it is dark ; but when they have ftrangers who fleep in the houfe, they gene- rally keep a light burning all night, poflibly as a check upon fuch of the v;omen as they wifh not to honour them with their favours. Of their itinerary concerts I need add nothing to what has beea faid already ; efpecially a» I (hall have occa- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 187 cccafion, more particulaH;;, to mention them when I relate our adventures upon another ifland. In other countries, tl»e girls and unmarried women are fuppofed to be wholly ij^norant of what others upon fome occafions may appear to know ; and their con- dud and converfation arc conlequently reftrained with- in naiTOwer bounds, and kept at a more remote diftance from whatever relates to a connection with the other fex : but here, it is juft contrary. Among other diver- fions, there is a dance, called Ttmorodee^ which is per- formed by young girls, whenever eight cr ten of them can be colieded together, confiding of motions and gedures beyond imagination wanton, in the practice of which they are brought up from their earlieft child- hood, accompanied by words, which, if it were poflible, would more cxplicidy convey the fame ideas. In thefe dances they keep time with an exadtnefs which is fcarce- ly excelled by the beft performers upon the Ibges of Europe. But the pradice which is allowed to the vir- gin, IS prohibited to the woman from the moment that Ihe has put thefe hopeful IclTons in pradice, and realizeii the fymbols of the dance. It cannot be fuppofed that, among thefe people, chaf-. tity is held in much eftimation. It might be expedted that fifters and daughters would be offered to ftrangers, either as a courtefy, or for reward ; and that breaches of conjugal fidelity, even in the wife, Ihould not be otherwife puniihed than by a few hard words, or per- haps a flight beating, as indeed is the cafe : but there is a fcale in difTolute lenfuality, which thefe people have afcended, wholly unknown to every other nation whofe manners have been recorded from the beginning of the ' world to the prefent hour, and which no imagination . could poflibly conceive. A very confiderable number of the principal people of Otaheite, of both fexes, have formed themfelves into ' a fociety, in which every woman is common to every man ; thus fecuring a perpetual variety as often as their inclination prompts them to feck it, which is fo fre- A a ^ qucnt^ 188 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGj:. quent, that the fame man and woman feldom cohabit together more than two or three days, Thefe Ibcieties arc diftinguifhed by the name of jlrreoy ; and the members have meetings, at which no other are prefent, where the men amufe themfelves by wreftling, and the women, notwithftanding their occa- fional connection with different men, dance the Timo- rodee in all its latitude, as an incitement to defires which It is faid are frequently gratified upon the fpot. This however is comparatively nothing. If any of the wo- men happen to be with child, which, in this manner of life, happens lefs frequently than if they were to co- habit only with one man, the poor infant is fmothered the moment it is born, that it may be no incumbrance to the father, nor interrupt the mother in her diaboli- cal proftitutipn. It fometimes indeed happens, that the paflion which prompts a woman to enter into this fo- ciety, is liirmountcd when ihe becomes a mother, by that inftindive affedlion which Nature has given to all creatures for the prefervation of their offspring ; but even in this cafe, Ihe is not permitted to fpare the life of her infant, except (he can find a man who will pa- tronife it as his child : if this can be done, the murder is prevented ; b^t both the man and woman, being deem- ed by this ad to have appropriated each other, arc ejeded from the community, and forfeit all claim toth^ privileges and pleafures of Arreoy for the future ; the woman from that time being diftinguifhed by the term Whannowmwj " bearer of children, ' which is here a term of reproach ; thotigh none can be more honour- able in the eftimation of wife! om and humanity, of right reafon, and every paffion that diftinguifhes the man from the brute. It is not fit that a pradice fo horrid and fo ftrangc fliould be imputed to human beings upon flight evi- dence, but I have fuch as abundantly jullifies nie in the account 1 have given. The people themfelves are fo far from concealing their connedion with fuch a foci" ety as a difgrace, that they boafl of it as a privilege ; and both CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 1I9 both myfelf and Mr Banks, when particular perfons have been pointed out to us as members of tlie Arreoy, have queftioned them about it, and received the ac- count that has been here given from their own lips. They have acknowledged, that they had lonp; been of this accurfed Society, that they belonged to it at that time, and that leveral of their children had been put to death. But I muft not conclude my account of the domefllc life of thefe people without mentioning their peribnal cleanlincfs. If that which lefl'ens the good of life and increafes the evil is vice, furely cleanlinefs is a virtue : the want of it tends to deftroy both beauty and health, and mingles difguft with our heft pleafures. The na- tives of Otaheite, both men and women, conftantly wafli their whole bodies in running water three times every day ; once as foon as they rile in the morning, once at noon, and again before they lleep at night, whe- ther the fea or river is near them or at a diftance, I have already obferved, that they wa(h not only the mouth, but the hands at their meals, almoft between every mor- fcl ; and their clothes, as well as their perfons, are kept without fpot or ftain ; fo that in a large company of thefe people, nothing is fufFered but heat, which, per-» haps, is more than can be iaid of the polit^ft afl'embly in Europe. Of the Mamfa^ures^ Roats^ and Navigation tf Qtaheite^ IF neceffity is the mother of invention, it cannot be fuppofed to have been much exerted where the liberali- ' ty of Nature has rendered the diligence of Ait almolS'-;- mperfluous ; yet there are many inftances both of inge^ I nuity and labour among thefe people, which, confider- I mg the y^m of xneta^ tor tods, do hpaour to both. Their- 1 9© CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. ThcTf principal mannfydure is their cloth, in tlie making and dying of vvliich 1 thiiik there arefome par- ticulars which may inftrudl even the artificers of Great Britain, and for that reafon my defcription will be more minute. Their cloth is of three kinds ; and it is made of the bark of three different trees, the Chinefe paper mulberry, the bread-fruit tree, and the tree which refcmbles the wild fig-tree of the Well Indies. The fineft and whiteft is made of the paper mulber- ry, Aouia ; this is worn chieliy by the principal people, and when it is dyed red takes a better colour. A fecond fort, inferior in whitenefs and loftnefs, is made of the bread-fruit tree, Coroo, and worn chiefly by the inferior people; and a third of the tree that refcmbles the fig, which is coarfe and harfh, and of the colour of the darkeft brown paper: this, though it is lefs pleafing both to the eye and the touch, is the moft valuable, becaufe it refills water, which the other two forts will not. Of this, which is the moft rare as well as the moft ufeful, the ter part is perfumed, and worn by the Chiefs as a i. ning drefs. All thefe trees are propagated with great care, parti- cularly the mulberry, which covers the largeft part of the cultivated land, and is not fit for ufe after two or three years growth, when it is about fix or. eight feet high, and fomewhat thicker than a man's thumb ; its excellence is to be thin, ftrait, tall, and without branches: the lower leaves, therefore, are carefully plucked ofl^ with their germs, as often as there is any appearance of their producing a branch. But though the cloth made of thefe three trees is dif- ferent, it is all manufadlured in the fame manner ; I fhall, therefore, defcribe the procefs only in the line fort, that is made of the mulberry. When the trees are of a proper fize, they are drawn up, and ftripped of their branches, after which the roots and tops are cut off; the bark of thefe rods being then flit up longi- mdinally is eafily drawn off, and, when a proper quan- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 191 tity has been procured, it is carried down to fomc run- ning water, in which it is depofited to laik, and fecureJ from lloatinp; away by heavy ilones : when it is fup- pofbd to be I'ufficientiy foftened, the women iervants go down to the brook, and dripping themfelvcy, fit down ill the water, to Separate the inner bark from the grcca part on the outiide ; to do this they place the under fide upon allatfmooth board, and with the flicii which cur dealers call Tygcr's tonj^ue, Tellina gar^adia^ fcrape it very carefully, dipping it continually in the water till nothing remains but the fine fibres of the inner coat. Being thus prepared in the afternoon, ihcy are fpreaj out upon plantain leaves in the evening ; and in this part of the v/ork there appears to be ibtne difficulty, as the miftrefs of the family always fuperintends the doing of it : they are placed in lengths of about eleven: or twelve yards, one by the fide of another, till they are about a foot broad, and two or three layers are alio laid one upon the other : care is taken that the cloth ihiall be in all parts of an equal thicknelfj, fo that if the bark hap- pens to be thinner in any particular part of one layer than the reft, a piece that is foracwliat thicker is piclced out to be laid over it in the next. In this ftate it remains till the morning, when great part of the water which it contained when it was laid cut, is either drained offor evaporated, and the feveral fibres adhere together, fo as that the whole may be raifcd from the ground in one piece. it is then taken away, and laid upon the fmootli fide of a long piece of wood, prepared for the purpofe, and beaten by the women fervants, with inftmments about a foot long and three inches Ihick, made of a hard wood which they call Etoa, The fhape.of this inftrument is not unlike a fquare razor ftrop, only that the handle is longer, and each of its four fides or faces is marked, lengthways, with fmall grooves, or furrows, of different degrees of finenefs ; thofe on one fide being of a width and depth fuffici^nt to receive a fmall packthread, and the 192 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. the others finer in a regular gradation, fo that the laft are not more than equal to fewing filk. . They heat it firftwith the coarieft fide of this mallet, keeping time like our fmiths ; it fpreads very faft undtr the ftrckes, chiefly however in the hreadth, and the grooves in the mallet mark it with the appearance of threads ; it is fucceffively beaten with the other lides, laft with the fmeft, and is then fit for ufe. Sometimes, however, it is made ftill thinner, by beating it with the fmeft fide of the mallet, after it has been leveral times doubled : it is then called Hoboo^ and is almofl: as thin as a muflin ; it becomes very white by being bleachftd in the air, but is made ftill w^liiter and fofter by being wafti- ed and beateji again after it has been worn. Of this cloth there are fever al forts, of different de- grees of finenefs, in proportion as it is more or lefs beat- en without being doubled : the other cloth alfo differs in proportion as it is beaten ; but they differ from each other in confequence of the different materials of which they are made. The bark of the bread-fruit is not ta- ken till the trees are confiderably longer and thicker than thofe of the fig ; the prpcefs afterwards is the fame. When cloth" is to be wafhed after it has been worn, It is taken down to the brook, and left to foak, being kept faft to the bottom, as at firft, by a ftone ; it is then gent- ly wrung or fqueczed ; and fometimes feveral pieces of it are laid one upon another, and beaten together with the coarfeft fide of the mallet, and they are then equal in thicknefs to broad-cloth, and much more foft and apee- able to the touch, after they have been a little while in life, though, when they come immediately from the mallet, they feel as if they had been ftarched. This cloth fometimes breaks in the beating, but is eafily re- paired by pafting on a patch with a gluten that is pre- pared from the root of the Fea^ which is done fo nicely that it cannot be difcovered. The women alfo employ tiiemfelves in removing blemifhes of every kind, as our kdies do in needdle-work or knotting j fometimes when their CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 193 tlicif work is intendctl to be very fine, they will parte an curjre covering of hcL .>o over llie whole. The princi- pal excellencies of this cloth are its coolncfs and foft- neJs ; and its iiiiperfedions, its being pervious to wa- ter like paper, and almoft as ealily torn. '1 he colours with which they dye this cloth are prin- cipally red and yellow. The red is exceedingly beautj- lul, and I may venture to fay, a bri(^hter and more deli- cate colour than any we have ia Europe ; that which approaches neareft is our full Icarlet, and the bed imita- tion which Mr Banks's natural hiftory painter could pro- duce, was by a mixture of vermdion and carmine. The yellow is alfo a bright colour, but we hav2 many as good. The red colour is produced by the mixture of the juices of two vegetables, neither of which fepar;ttely lias the leaft tendency to that hue. One is a fpecies of fig, called her » Matie^ and the other the Cordia Sebejii- na^ or Etou ; of ihe fig the fruit is ufed, and of the Csr-' dia the leaves. The fruit of the fig is about as big as a rounceval pea, or very fmall goofeberry ; and each of them, upon breaking oiFthe Italk very clofe, produces one drop of a milky liquor, refembling the juice of our figs, of which the tree is indeed a fpecies. This liquor the wo- men collect into a fmall quantity of cocoa-nut water : to prepare a gill of cocoa-nut w^ater will require between tj^ree and tour quarts of thefe little figs. When a fuf- ficit'nt quantity is prepared, the leaves of the Etou are well wetted in it, and then laid upon a plantain leaf, where they are turned about till they become more and, more flaccid, and then thev are gently fqueezed, gra- dually increafing the prelTure, but fo as not to break them ; as the naccidity increafes, and they become fpungy, they are fupplied with more of the liquor ; in j^bout five minutes the colour begins to appear upon the veins of the leaves, and in about ten or a little more, they are perfectly faturated with it: they are then Vol. I.—N" 5. 13 b fqueezed* 194 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. fqueezed, with as much force as caa be applied, and the liquor ftraincd at the fame- time that it is exprefled. For this purpofe, the boys prepare a large quantity of the Moo, by drawing it between their teeth, or two little flicks, till it is freed from the green bark and the branny fubftance that lies under it, and a thin web of the fibres only remains ; in this the leaves of the Etou are inveloped, and through thefe the juice which they contain is flrained as it is forced out. As the leaves are not fucculent, little more juice is prefTed out of them than they have imbibed : when they have been once ? emptied, they are filled again, and again prelFed till the quality which tinctures the liquor as it pafles through them is exhaufted, they are then thrown away ; but the Moo, being deeply flamed with the colour, is preferv- ed, as a brufh to lay the dye upon the cloth. The exprefTed liquor is always received into fmall cups made of the plantain leaf, whether from a notion that it has any quality favourable to the colour, or from the facility with which it is procured, and the conve- nience of fmall vefTels to diflribute it among the artifi- cers, I do not know. Of the thin cloth they feldom dye more than the edges, but the thick cloth is coloured through the whole Airface ; the liquor is indeed ufed rather as a pigment t^an a dye, for a coat of it is laid upon one fide only, with the fibres of the Moo ; and though I have feen of the thin cloth that has appeared to have been foaked in the liquor, the colour has not had the fame richnefs and luflre, as when it has been applied in the other manner. , Though the leaf of the Etou is generally ufed in this prcteefs, and probably produces the finefl colour ; yet the juice of the fi^s will produce a red by a mixture . with the fpecies of Toumefortia, which they call To- ^ heinoo^ the Pohucy the Eurhe 6x Convolvulus Brajilienfis, ^9tid a foecies of a Solanum called Ebooa ; from the ufc of thefe differetit plants, or from different proportions of the materials, many varieties are obfervable in th^ colfur^y CAPTAIN COOK'6 FIRST VOYAGE. IPS colours of their cloth, fome of which are confpicuoufly fuperior to others. The beauty, however, of the beft is not permanent \ but it is probable that fome method might be found to fix it, if proper experiments were made, and perhaps to fearch for latent qualities, which may be brought out by the mixture or one vegetable juice with another, would not be an unprofitable employment : our prefent moft valuable dyes afford fufficient encouragement to the attempt ; for by the mere infpecflion of indico, woad, dyer's weed, and moft of the leaves which are ufed for the like purpofes, the colours which they yield could never be difcovered. Of this Indian red I fhall only add, that the women who have been employed in pre- paring or ufing it, carefully preferve the colour upon their fingers and nails, where it appears in its utnioft beauty, as a great ornament. The yellow is made of the bark of the root of the Morinda citri/olia^ called Nona, by fcraping and infufing it in water; after ftanding fome time, the water is ftrain- ed and ufed as a dye, the cloth being dipped into it. The Morinda, of which this is a fpecies, feems to be a good fubje£t for examination with a view to dyeing. Brown, m his hiftory of Jamaica, mentions three fpe- cies of it, which he fays are ufed to dye brown ; and Rumphius fays of the Bancuda AuguJiifoUa^ which is nearly allied to our Nono, that it is ufed by the- inhabi- tants of the Eaft-Indian iflands, as a fixing drug for red colours, with which it particularly agrees. The inhabitants ofthisiflandalk) dye yellow with the fruit of the Tamanu ; but how the colour is extracted, we had no opportunity to difcover. They have alfo a preparation with which they dye brown and black; but thefe colours are To indifferent, that the method of preparing them did not excite our curiofity. Another confiderable manufacture is matting of va- rious kinds ; fome of which is finer, and better m every refpedt, than any we have in Europe ; the coarfer lort fcrves them to fleep upon, and the imer to wear in wet B b 3 weather* 196 CAPTAIN COOK'^ FIRST VOYAGE. weather. With the finei of which there are alfo two forts, much pains is taken, efpecially with that made of the bark of the Poerou, the Hibifcus tiliaceus of LinnsBus, feme of wliich is as fine as a coarfc cloth i the other fort, which is ftill more beautiful, they call Vanne ; it is whire, glolfy, and fhining, and is made of the leaves of their V/barrcu, a fpecies of the Pandanus^ of which we had no opportunity to fee either the flowers or friiit : they have other matts» or as they call them Moeas^ to fit or to deep upon, which are formed of a great variety ot rufhcs and grafs, and which they make, as they do every thing elfe that is plaited, with amazing facility and difbatch. They are alfp very dexterous in making bafket and wicker-work ; their halkets are of a thoufand diflferent patterns, many of them exceedingly neat ; and the ma- king them is an art that every one pradifes, both men and women: they make occalional bafkets and panniers of the cocoa-nut leaf in a few minutes, and the women who vifited us early in a morning ufed to fend, as foon as the fun was hi^h, for a few of the leaves, of which they made little bonnets to fhade their faces, at fo fmail an expence of time and trouble, that, when the fun was again low in the evening, they ufed to throw them away. Thefe bonnets, however, did not cover the head, but confided only of a band that went round it, and a ihade that projeded from the forehead. Of the bark of the Poerou they make ropes and lines, from the thicknefs of an inch to the fize of a fmall pack- thread : with thefe they make nets for fifliing : of the fibres of the cocoa-nut they niake thread, for faftening together the feveral parts of their canoes, and belts, either round or flat, twiiled or plaited ; and of the bark of the Erowa, a. kind of nettle which grows in the mountains, and is therefore rather fcarce, they make the beft fithing; lines in the world : with thefe they hold the ftrongeil and mod a£tive fi(h, fuch as Bonetas and Albicorcs, which would fnap our flrongeft filk lines in a minute, though they are twice as thick. * . -^ They CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 197 They make alfo a kind of feine, of a coarfe broad rrafs, the blades of which are like fla^s: thefe they twift fnd tie together in a loofe manner, till the net, which is about as wide as a large fack, is from fixty to eighty fa- thom long : this they haul in fhoal fmooth water, and its own weight keeps it fo clofe to the ground, that fcarccly a fingle fifh can efcape. In every expedient, indeed, for taking fiili they are exceedingly ingenious ; they make harpoons of cane, and point them with hard wood, which, in their hands, ftrikefifli more effeduaily than thofe which are headed with iron can do in ours, fetting afide the advantage of ours being faftcned to a line, fo that the tifti is fecured if the hook takes place, though it does not mortally wound him. Of fifh-hooks they have two forts, admirably - a- dapted in their conftmdion as w^ell to the purpofe they are to anfwer,as to the materials of which they are made. One of thefe, which they call Wiitee Wiitee, is ufed for towing. Tlie ihank is made of mother of pearl, the nioft glc:Ty that can be got : the infide, which is natu«^ rally the brighteft^ is put behind. To thefe hooks a tuft of white dog's or hog's hair is fixed, fo as fome- what to refemble the tail of a fifti ; thele implements, therefore, are both hook and bait, and arc ufed with a rod of bamboo, and line of Erowa, The fi flier, to fecure his fuccefs, watches the flight of the. birds which con- ftantly attend the Bonetaa when they fwim, in fhoals^ I by which he diredts his canoe, and wh» n he has th^ I advantage of thefe guides, he leldom returns without a I prize. The other kind of hook is alfo made of mother of pearl, or fome other hard Ihell : they cannot make them bearded like our hooks ; but to efred the fame purpofe, they make the point turn inwards. Thefe are made of all lizes, and ufed to catch various kinds of fifli, with great fuccefs. The manner of making them is very [iimple, and every fiflierman is his own artificer : the 4liell is lirft cut into fntries, to get niiorvey, are iet out of the account, not maay will re>^ main : add to this, that where the commerce with wo- men i& rellf ained by no law, men will feldom be under amy temptadoa to commit adultery, efpecially as one / . w:omaa CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. «'f woman is always lefs preferred than another, where they arc lefs diftinguilhed by perfonal decorations, and tlie adventitious circumftanccs which are produced by the varieties of art, and the refinements of fcntimcnt. That they are thieves is true ; but as among thefe peo- ple no man can be much injured or benefited by theft^ It is not neceflary to reft rain it by fuch punifhments as in other countries are ablblutcly neceflary to the very exidence of civil focicty. Tupia, however, tells ue, that adultery is fometimes committed as well as theft. In all cafes where an injury has been committed^ the punilhment of the offender lies with tb«ibffcrer : adul- tery, if the parties are caught in the faa, isfomfitimes puniihed with death in the lirfl ardour of refentment } but without circumftanccs o£ immediate provocation^ the female fmner fcldom fufFers more than a beating. As punifhment, however, is enforced by no law, nor taken into the hand of any magiftrate, it is not often in- fli£led, except the injured party is the ftrongeft j though the Chiefs do fometimes puniih their immediate depen- dents, for faults committed againft each other, and even the dependents of others, if they are acciifed of any of- fence committed in their diftrid. 4 Defcripiion of fiveral other IJlands in the Neighbourhood ofOtah^itey with various Incidtnts ; a dramatic Entertain^ ment ; and many Particulars relatiyf to the Gtiftonu and Manners of the Inhabitants^ AFTER parting with our friends, we made an eafy fail, with gentle breezes and clear weather, and were in- formed by Tupia, that four of the neig^boiirbg iflands, E e 3 which a2o CAP-fAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. which he diftinguiflied by the names of Huaheine, ULi£TEA,OTAHA,and BoiABOLA,lay atthediftance of between one and two days fail from Otaheite ; and tliat hogs, fowls, and other refrefhments with which we had of late been but fparingly fupplied, were there to be procured in great plenty ; but having difcovered from the hills of Otaheite, an ifland lying to the northward, which he called TethuroA, I determined firft to (land that way, to take a nearer view of it. It lies N. f W. diftant eight leagues from the northern extremity of Otaheite, upon which we had obferved the tra^iit, and to which we l^'^d, for that reafon, given the nam's of Point VENU^i We found it to be a fmall low ifland, and were told by Tupia, that it had no fettled inhabi- tants, but was ooiafionally vifited by the inhabitants of Otaheite, who fometimes went thither for a few days to fifti ; we therefore determined to fpcnd no more time in a farther examination of it, but to go in fearch of Hua- heine and Ulietea, which he deferred to be well peo- pled, and as large as Otaheite. At fix o'clock in the morning of the 14th, the weft^ crmoft part of Eimeo, or York Ifland, bore S. E. f S. and the body of Otaheite E. f S. At noor., the body of York Ifland bore E. by S. f S. and Port-Royal bay, at Otaheite, S. 70 d. 45 m. £. diftant 61 miles, and an ifland which we took to be Saunders's Ifland, called by the natives TapoamAnao, bore S. S. W. We alfo faw land bearing N. W. f W. which Tupia faid was Huaheine. On the 15th, it v^as hazy, with light breezes and calvn^j fucceeding each other, fo that we coiild fee no land, and made but little way. Our Indian, Tupia, often prayed for a wind to his god Tane^ and as often boaded of his fuGcefs, which indeed he took a very efFeftual method to fe:ure, for he never began his addrefs to Tane, till he faw ;i breeze fo near that ii? knew it muft reach die fliip bcfote his oraifbn was well over. Ovi the 1 6th, we had a gentle breeze; and in the xporning about eight o'clock, being qlofe in v ith the nonut CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. aat ncrth-weft part of the ifland Hnaheine, we founded, but had no bottom with eighty fathom. Some canoes very foon came off, but the people feemed afiraid, and kept at a diftance till they difcovered Tunia, and then they ventured nearer. In one cf the canoes that came up to the Ihip's fide, was the king of the iiland and his wife. Upon alTurances of firiendlhip, frequent- ly and earneftly repeated, their Majefties and fomc others cnme on board. At firft they were ftruck with aftonilhment, and wondered at every tiling that was ihewn them ; yet they made no inquiries, and feeming to be falisfied with what was offered to their notice, they made no fearch after other obje^s of curioiity, with which it was natural to fuppofe a building of fuch novelty and magnitude as the mip muft abound. After fome time, they became more familiar. I was given to underfland, that the name of the king was Or££, and he propofed, as a mark of amity, that we fhould ex- change names. To this I readily confented ; and he was Gookee, for fo he pronounced my name, and I was Oree, for the reft of the time we were together. We found thefe people to be very nearly the fame with thofe of Otaheite, in perfon, drcfs, language, and every other circumftance, except, if Tupia might be believed, that they would not fteal Soon pfter dinner, we came to an anchor, in a fmall but excellent harbour on the weft fide of the ifland, which the natives call Owharre, in eighteen fathom water, dear ground, and lecure from all winds. I went iiumediattJy alhore, accompanied by Mr Banks, Dr Solander, Mr Monkhoufe, Tupia, iting Gookee, and ibrne other cf the natives who had been on board evtt . lince the morning. The moment we landed Tupia ftrip- ped himfelf as low as the waift, and defired Mr Monk- houfe to do the fame : he then fat down before a great jumber of the natives, who were colleded together in a large houfe or fhed ; for here, as well as at Otaheite,a a houfe confifts only of a roof fupportcd upon poles ; ^he reft of us, by his defire, ftauding behind, Be then began 222 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. m began a fpcech or prayer which lailed about a quarter of an hour, the King who ftood over againft him every XiOw and thenanfwering in what appeared to be fet re* ibonfes. In the courfe of this harangue he delivered at different times two handkerchiefs, a black filk neck- cloth, fome beads, two fmall bunches of feathers, and fome plantains, as prefents to their Eatua, or God. In return for-thefe, he received for our Eatua, a hog, fome young plantains, and two fmall bunches of feathers^ -which he ordered to be carried on board the (hip. Af- ter thefe ceremonies, which we fuppofed to be the rati- * ficaticn of a treaty between us, every one was difmifled to go whither he pleafed ; and Tupia immediately re- paired to offer his oblations at one of the Morais. 'The next morning, we went on (here again, and walked up the hills, where the produdions were exad- ly the fame as thofe of Otahdte, except that the rocks and ciay appeared to be more burnt. The houf^s were neat, and the boat houf-^s remarkably large ; one that we meafured was fifty paces long, ten broad, and twen^ ty-fuur feet high ; the whole formed a pointed arch, like more of our old cathedrals, which w-^". lupported on one lide by twenty-fix, and on the other by thirty pillars, or rather pofts, about two feet high, and one thipkt up- on moil of which were rudely carved the heads of men, and feveral fanciful devices, not altogether unlike thofe which we fometimes fee printed from wooden blocks, at the beginning and end of old books. The plains, or fiat part of the country, abounded in bresd-truit, and cocoa-nut trees ; in fome places, however, there were fait iwamps and la|;oonS) which would produce nei^ then We went again a-(hore on the j 8th, and would have taken the advantage of Tupia's company, in our peram- bulation; but he was too much encaged with bis friends : we took however his boy, whofe name yras Tayeto, and Mr Banks went to take a farther view of what had much engaged his attention before ; it was a kind of cheft or ark, the lid of which wa« nicely few- CAPTAIN COOK»s FIRST VOYAGE. aaj ed on, and thatched very neatly with palm-nut leaves : it was fixed upon two noles, and fupported on little arches of wood, very neatly carved ; the ufe of the poles feemed to be to remove it from place to place, ia the manner of our fedan chairs : in one eftd of it was a fquare hole, in the middle of which was a ring touching die fides, and leaving the angles open, fo as to form a round hole within a fquare one. Tlie firft time Mr Banks faw this coffer, the aperture at the end was flop- ped with a piece of cloth, which, left he fhould give offence, he left uritouched; m-obably there was then fomething within, but now the cloth was taken away, and upon looking inta it, it was found empty. The general refemblance between this repofitorv and the Ark of the Lord amcng the Jews, is remarkable ; but it is dill more remarkable, that upon enquiring of the boy "hi :'. was called, he faid, Ewhane no Eatua^ thebouje tj ./: . Kjcd : he could however, give no account of its fig- nitication or ufe. We had commenced a kind of trade with the natives, but it went on flowly ; for when any thing was offered, not one of them would take it upon his own judgQient, but collected the opinions of twen- ty or thirty people, which could not be done without great lofs of time. We got, however, eleven pig-s, and determined to try for more the ne ct day. The next day, therefore, we bro^ight out fome hatch-^ ets, for which we hoped we fhouM have had no occa- fion, upon r^-^ Kland which no European had ever vifit- ed before,;^ TbJk. procured us three very large hogs ; and as we >r ; o' :d to fail in the afternoon, KingOrec and feveral otiv^r came on board to take their feave. To the King I gave afraall plate of pewter, on which was ftamped this infcription, " His ISritannic Maje^'s fhip, Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook Commander, loth July, 1 769, Huahfiine." I gave him alio Ibme medal* or counters, refemhling the coin of England, fbruck in the year \^Gi^ with fomc other prefents ; and he pro- mifed tki ^' \tb none of thefe, particularly the plate, he wouki ever pare,, I thought it as laiHng a teftimony of ^ 124 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. our having firft difcovercd this ifland, as any we could leave b^md; and having difmifled our vifitors weil fatisfied, and in great good humour, we fct fail, about half an hour after two in the afternoon. The ifland of Huaheine, or Huahene, is fituated m the latitude of i6d. 43 m. S. and long;itude 150 d. 52 in. W. from Greenwich : it is diftant frorti Otaheite about thirty-one leagues, in the diredion of N. 58 W. And is about feven leagues in compafs. Its furface is \jl\y and uneven, and it has a fate and commodious barbour. Tlie harbour,* which is called by the natives OwALLE, or OwHARRE, lies on the weft fide, under the northermoft high land, and within the north end of the reef, which lies along that fide of the ifland ; there are two inlets or operings, by which it maybe entered, through the reef^ aboi ; lile and a half diftant frbm each other ; the foutheri. t is the wideft, and on the ibtith fide of it lies a very fmall fandy ifland. Huaheine ^eems to be a month forwarder in its pro* du^ons than Otaheite, as we found the cocoa-nuts full c^ kernel, and fome of the new bread-fruit fit to eat^ Of the cocoa-nut^ the mhabitants make a food which dfciey call Poe^ by mixing them with yams; they fcrape li^th fine, and having incorporated tlie powder, thty mit it into a wooden trough, with a number of hot PQnes, by which an oily Kind of hafty pudding is fiiade, that our people relifhed very well, efpeeially Winen it was fryed. Mr Banks found not more than Ikveaor ^welve new plants ; but he obferved fome io- fefts, and a fpecles of fcorpibn which he had not feat itefbre^ ' - ' . j <:The inhabitants feem to be larger made, and ml^ ilout, than thofe of Otaheite. Mr Banks meafured o^ of the men, and found him to be fix feet three inch^ « md an half high ; yet they are fo laz^r, that he could tult nerfuade any of them to go up^ the hills with him : they utd, i^ vhey were to attempt it the fatigue would 1|^ Hiem. The women were very fair, more fo than thfl6 «f Otaheite; and in generail, w furface is minodious the natives fide, under 3rth end of and; there be entered, iftant frbm md on the ' in its pro* )a-nuts fuU fit to eat )od which hey fcrapc vder, they >er of hot mddtng is efpeeiaily nore than i fome io* not isxxL :A ma moi^ furedo^ft ree inch0 < could ndt iim:thcy ouldki han theft XVEL VOfM CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE, ^25 haucirrnne, though none that were equal to fome indi- viduals. B Jth ibxes feemed to be leFs timid, and lefs curious : it has been obferved, that they made no en- quiries on board the (hip ; and when we fired a gun, they were frightened indeed, but they did not fall down, as our friends at Otaheite conftandy did when we firft came among the^m. For this difference, however, we can eafily account upon other princijples ; the people at Huaheine had not fcen the Dolphin, thofe at Ota- heite had. In one, the report of a gun was conneded with the idea of inftant deftrudiion ; to the other, there was nothing dreadful in it but the appearance and the found, as they had never experienced its power of dif- penfing death. , . . While we were on (hore, we found that Tupia had commended them beyond their merit, when he faid' that they would not (leal ; for one of them was deted- ed in the fadt. But when he was feized by the hair, the reft, inftead of running away, as the people at Otaheite would have done, gathered round, and enquired what^ provocation had been given ; but this alfo may be ac-; counted for without giving them credit for fuperior. courage ; they Had no experience of the confequence of European refentmenf , which the people at Otaheite had in many inftances purchafed with life. ' It muft how- ever be acknowledged, to their honour, that when they^ up.derftocd what had happened, they ihewcd ftron^ figns of difapprobation, and prefcribed a good beatingf for the thief, which was immediately adminiftercd. We now made fail for the ifland of Ulietea, which liesS. W.by W. diftant feven or ei^ht leagues from Huaheine, and at half an hour after iix in the evening; we were within three leagues of the (hore, on the eattto fide. We (lood oiFancl on all night, and when the day* broke the next morning, we (lood in for the fhore : w6 loon after difcovered an opehirig in the reef which Uei before the ifland, within which Tupia tdd us there WaJi a good harbour. I did not, hovirever, implicitly take hii^ word ; but £ent the mailer out in the pinnace to exd-^ Vol. I.— N° 6, F f jnine Ii6 CAPTAIN COOK^s FIRST VOYAGE. mine it : lie foon made the lignal for the (hjp to follow ; we accordingly flood in, and anchored in two &hd twenty fathom, with foft ground. The natives foon came off to \is in two canoes, each of which brougnt a woman and a pig. The woe fuppofed was a mark of confidence, and the pljpggys a prefent; we received both with proper ackrjSwISdg- ments, and complimented each of tne ladies with a fpike nail and Ibme beads, much to their fatisfadion. We were told by Tupia, who had always exprclfed much fear of the men of Bolabola, that they had made a conqueft of this ifland ; and that, if we remained here, they would certainly come down the next day, and fight us. We determined, therefore, to go on fliorc without delay, wliile the day was our own. I landed in company with Mr Banks, Dr Solandcr, and the other gentlemen, Tupia being alfo of the party. He in trod uceu us by repeating the ceremonies which he had performed at Huaheine, after which I hoifted an Englifh jack, and took poffeflion of this and the thr ,e neighbouring iflandsj Huaheine, Otaha, and Bo- labola, which were all in fight, in the name of his Bri- tannic Majefly. After this, we took a walk to a great Moral, called Tapodeboat£A. We found it very different from thofe of Otaheite ; for it confifted only of four walls, about eight feet high, of coral ftones, fomc df which were of an immenfe lize, inclolin^ an area of about five and twenty yards fquare, which was filled up ■with fmaller ftones : upon the top of it many planks were fet up an end, which were carved iii their whole length : at a little diftance we found an altar, or Ewhat- ta, upon which lay the laft oblation or facrifice, a hog of about eighty pounds weight, which had been offered whole, and very nicely roaSed. Here were alfo four or five Ewharre-no-Eatua, or houfes of God, to which carriage poles were fitted, like that which we had fecQ at Huaheine. One of thefe Mr Banks examirtfecj by putting his hand into it, and found a parcel about five feet long and one thick, wrapped up m matts; he broke a CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 227 a way through feveral of thefe matts with his finpjers, but at length carae to one which was made of the fibres of the cocoa-nut, fo firmly plaited together that he found it impoffibie to tear it, and therefore was forced to defift ; elpecially as he perceived, that what he had done already gave great offence to our new friends. From hence we went to a long houfe, not far diftant, where, among rolls of cloth and feveral other things, wc faw the model of a canoe, about three feet long, to which were tied eight human jaw-bones : we had al- ready learnt that thele, like fcalps among the Indians of North America, were trophies of war, Tupia affirm- ed that they were the jaw-bones of the natives of this illand ; if fo,. they might have been hung up, with the model of a canoe, • as a fymbol of invalion, by the war- riors of Bolabola, as a memorial of their conqueft. Night now came on apace, but Mr Banks and Dr So- lander continued their walk along the fliore, and at a little diflance faw another Ewharre-no-Eatua, and a tree of the fig kind,, the fame as that which Mr Green had feen at Otaheite, in great perfection, the trunk, or rather^ congeries of the roots of which was forty-two paces in circumference. On the 2 1 ft, having difpatchcd the mafler in the long- boat to examine the coafl of the fouth part of the ifland, and one of the mates in the yawl, to found the harbour where the fhip lay, 1 went myfelf in the pinnace, to furvey that part of the ifland which lies to the north Mr Banks and the gentlemen were again on fliore, trading tyith the natives, and examining the produdts and curio- fitiesof the country ; they faw nothing, however, wor- thy notice, but fome more jaw-bones, of which they made no doubt but that; the account they had heard was true. On the 2 2d and 23d, having ftrong gales and hazy weather, I did not think it fafe to put to f^a ; but on the 2ij.th, though the wind was flill variable, I got under fail, and pliqd to the northward within the reef, with a, yiew to go put at a wid^ opening than that by which I Vfz had 2i8 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. had entered ; in doing this, however, I was imexpe^ft- cdly in the mofl immediate danger of ftrikinpj on the rock : the mafter, wliom I had ordered to keep conti- nually founding in the chains, fuddenly called out, " two fathom." This alarmed me, for though 1 knew the {h\[> drew at Icait fourteen feet, and that, therefore, it was impofTible fuch a flioal fliould be under her keel ; yet the mafter was either miftaken, or (lie went along the edge of a coral rock, many of which, in tlie neigh- bourhood of thefe i Hands, are as fteep as a wall. Iliis harbour or bay is called by the natives OopoA, and, taken in its greateft extent, it is capable of holding any number of (hipping. It extends almoft the whole length of the eafl lide of the ifland, and is defended from the fea by a reef of coral rocks : the fouthermoll opening in this reef, or channel into the harbour, by which we entered, is lin^ j more than a cable's length wide; it lies off the eaitermoft point of the ifland, and may be known by another finall woody ifland, which lies a little to the fouth caft of it, called by the people here Oatara. Between three and four miles north ■weft from this ifland lie two other iflets, in the fame di- redion as the reef, of which they are a part, called OpuRURU and Tamou ; between thefe lies the other 'channel into the harbour, through >vhich I went out, and which is a full quarter of a mile wide. Still farther to tke north weft arc fome other fmall iflands, near which I am told there is another fmall channel into the harbour ; but this I know only by report. The principal refreftiments that are to be procured at this part of the ifland are, plantains, cocoa-nuts, yams, hogs, and fowls; the hogs and fowls, however, are fcarce \ and the country,- where we faw it, is neither fo populous, nor fo rich in produce asOtaheite, or c en Huaheine. Wood and water may alfp be procured here ; but the wafer cannot conveniently be got at. We were now s ^ain at fea, without haying received any interruption Irom the hoftiie inhabitants df Bok- bola, whpm, uotwitliftand^ng the fesffs of Tu^ia, vft ■ * intend- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 22^ expCiSt- on the n contU fed out, 1 1 knew lerefore, er keel ; It along : neigh- hokling e whole et'ended hermoft >our, by i length ntl, and , which people ^8 north 'ame di- called e other ;nt out, farther s, near nto the Ired at yams, ;r, are therfo e' en )cu'cd It. seived [Bok- tend- intended to vifit. At four o'clock in the afternoon of the 2 cth, we were within a league of Otaha, which l)orc N. 77 W. To the northward of the fouth end of that ifland, on the eaft fide of it, and foniething more than a mile from the fl^ore, lie two fmall iflands, cajled ToAnouTU and Whennuaia; between which, Tupia fays, there is a channel into a very good harbour, which lies within the reef, and appearances conlirmed his report. As I difcovered a broad channel between Otaha and Bolabola, I determined rather to go through it, than run to the northward of all ; but the ^ind being right a-head, I got no ground. Between five and fix in the evening of the 26th, as I was ftanding to the northward, I difcovered a fmall low ifland, lying N. by W. or N. N. W. diftant four or fivd leagues from Bolabola. We were told by Tupia that the name of this ifland is TuBAi ; that it produces no^ thing but cocoa-nuts, and is inhabited only by three families ; though it is vifited by the inhabitants of the neighboi;ring iflands, who reibrt thither to catch fifli, with which the coaft abounds. On the 27th, about noon» the peak of Bolabola bore N. 25 W. and tl^e north end of Otaha, N. 80 W. diftant three leagues. The wind continued contrary all this day and tne night following. On tl?e 28th, at fix in the morning, we were near the entrance of the harbour on the eaft fide of Otaha, which has been juft men- tioned ; and finding that it might be examined without lofing time, 1 fent away the mafter in the long-boat, with orders to found it ; and, if the wind djd not fhift in our favour, to land upon the ifland, und traffic with the natives for fiich refi-emments as were to be had, Iii this boat went Mr Banks and Dr Solander, who landed upon the ifland, and before night purchafed three hogs, twenty-one fowls, and as niany yams atid. plantains as the boat would hold. Plantains we thought a more ufefiil refrefliment even than poric ; for they were boil- led and ferved to the fhip's company as hre^di md were 7-^9 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. now the more acceptable, as our bread was fo full of ver- min, that, notwithftanding all poflible care, we had fometimes twenty of them in our mouths at a time, every one of which tailed as hot as muflard. The ifland fecmed to be more barren than Ulietea, but the f)roduce was of the fame kind. The people alfo exad- y refembled thofc that we had fecn at the other iflands- they were not numerous, but they flocked about the boat where-ever (he went from all quarters, bringing ■with them whatever they had to fell, l^hey paid the ftrangers, of whom they had received an account from Tupia,'the fame compliment which they ufed towards their own Kings, uncovering their fliouluers, and wrap- ping their garments round their breafts ; and were lb lolicitous to prevent its being negledied by any of their people, that a man was fent with them, who called out to every one they met, telling him what they were, and what he was to dp. In the mean time, I kept plying ofFand on, waiting for the boat's return ; at half an hour after five, not kc- Jng any thing of her, I fired a gun, and after it was dark hoifted a light ; at half an hour after eight, we heard the report of a mufquet, vvliich we anfwered with a gun> and foon after the boat came on board. The ma* fter reported, that the harbour was fafe and commodi- pus, with good anchorage from twenty-five to f ixteen fathom water, clear ground. . As foon as the boat was hoifted in. I made fail to the northward, and at eight o'clock in the morning of the 29th, we were clofe under the Peak of Bolabola, which was high, rude, and craggy. As tlie ifland was alto- {^ether inacceffible in this part, and we found it impof- lible to weather it, we tacted and fl:ood oflf, theu tacked again, and after many trips did not weather the fouth end of it till twelve o'clock at night. At eight o'cloci; the next morning, we difcovercdan ifland^ which borci from us N. 63 d. W. diftant about eight leagues ; at the fame time the Peak of Bolabola bore N. i ?. diftand th^ec pr four leagues. This ifland Tupia (jailed Mm CU lAiN COOlC's FIRST VOYAGE. 234 RUA, and faid that it was fmall, wholly furrounJcd by a reef, and without any harbour for Ihippiiig ; but inlia- bitcd, and bearing the fame produce as the neighbouring iflancis : the middle of it riles in a high round hill, that may be leen at the diftance often leagues. When we were oft' Bolabola, wc faw but few people on the iliore, and were told by Tupia that many of the inhabitants were gone to Ulietea. In the afternoon wc found ourfelvcs nearly the length of the ibuth end of Ulietea, and to windward of lome harbours that lay on the v.'cfl: fuie of this ifland. Into one of thef'e harbours, though we had before been afliore on the other ride of the ifland, I intended to put, in order to ftop aleak which we had fprung in the powder room, and to take in more ballaft, as I found the Ihip too light to carry fail upon a wind. .As the wind was right againft us, we plied off one of the harbours, and about three o'clock in the afternoon on the firft of Augult, we came to an anchor in the entrance of the channel leadii ,»• in- tr in fourteen fathom water, being prevented ironi \^ *.ng in, by a tide which let very llrong out. \Ve then carried out the kedge-anchor, in order to warp in- to the harbour ; but when ihis was done, we could not trip the bower-anchor with all the purchafe we could make ; we were therefore obliged to lie ftill all night, and in the morningj when the tide turned, the Ihip going over the anchor, it tripped of itfelf, and we warp- ed the fhip into a proper birth v;ith eafe, and moored 111 twpnty-eight fathom, with a fandy bottom. While this was doing many of the natives came oiFto us with hogs, fowls, and plantain:,, which they parted with at an eai'y rate. When the fhip was fecured, I went on fliore to look for a proper place to get ballaft and water, both which I found in a very convenient lituation.— This day Mr Banks and Dr 8olander fpent on Hiore very much tcf ■ their latisfadion ; every body feem«d to fear and refped: them, placing in them at the fame time tijye utmort oonfidence, beha\ing as if confcious that they pofTefled ihc wmmmm mm 232 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOXAGE* the power of doing them mifchief, without any pro- ptniity to make uie of it. Men, women, and children, crov;ded round them, and followed them wheie-ever they went ; but none of them were guilty of the leaft incivility : on the contrary, whenever there happened to be dirt or water in the way, the men vied with each other to carry them over on their backs. They were conducted to the houfes of the principal people, and were received in a manner altogether new : the people, who followed them while they were in their way, rulh- ed forward as foon as they came to a houfe, and went haftily in before them, leaving however a lane fufficient- ly wide for them to pafs. When they entered, they found thofe who had preceded them ranged on each iide of a long matt, which was fpread upon the ground, and ?t the firther end of which fat the family : in the hrft houfe they entered they found fome very young women or children, drefled vvlth the utmoft neatnefs, who kept their ftation, expeding the grangers to come vp to them and make them prefents, which they did with tlie greateli pleafure ; for prettier children or better- drefled they had never feen. One of them was a girl aboi^t fix years old ; her gown, or upper garment, was red i a large quantity of plaited hair was wound round her head, the ornament to which they gave the name of Tamou, and which they value more than any thing tliey pofTefs. She fat at the %per end of a matt thirty feet long, upon which none or the fpedtators prefumed to fet a foot, notwithftanding the crowd ; and (he lean- ed upon the arm of a well-looking woman about thirty, who was probably her nurfe. Our gentlemen walked up to her, and as (oon as they approached, flie flretched put her hand to receive the beads which they offered her, and no Princeis in Europe could have done it with a better grace. The people were fo much gratified by the prefents which were made to thefe girls, that when Mr Bank^ and Dr Solander returned they feeraed attentive to no- thing but how to oblige them ; and in one of the houfes they .s^^ vaE. )ut any pxo- and children, 1 whei"(2-ever Y of theleaft re happened ed with each They were people, and the people, r way, riilh- e, and went ne fufficient- ntered, they jed on each the ground, aily : in the very young oft neatnefs, ^ers to come ch they did en or better- n was a girl irment, was bund round 7Q the name q any thing matt thirty rs prefumed id fhe lean- ibout thirty, nen walked ;ie flretched :hey offered lone it with ms^w. CAPTAIN COOlC's FIRST VOYAGE. 233 tlicy were, by order of the mafter, entertained with a dance, different from any that they had feeo. It was t)e rforined by one man, who put upon his head a large cylindrical piece of wicker-work, or bafket, about four iect long and eight inches in diameter, which was faced with feathchs, placed perpendicularly, with the tops bending forwardj, and edged round with fhark^s teeth, and the tail feathers of Tropic birds : when he had put on his head drefs, which is called a Whow, he began to dance, moving flowly, and often turning his head fo as that the top of his high wicker-tap defcribed a circle, land fometimes throwing it fo near the faces of the fpec- tators as to make them ftart back : this was held among jthem as a very good joke, and never failed to produce peal.of laughter, efpecially when it was played off up- >n oneof the llrangers. On the 3d, we went along the (horc to the north- rard, which Was in a diredlion onpoiite to that of the [out Mr Banks and Dr Solander uad taken the day be- )re, with a defiga to purchafe flock, which we always mnd the people more ready to part with, and at a more |afy price, at their houfes than at the market. In the fourfe of our walk wc met with a company of dancers, ^ho detained us two hours, and during all thatlim^ af- )rded us great entertainment. The company con. red |f two women dancers, and fix men, with three druma ; pe were informed by Tupia, that they were fome of te moil confiderable people in the ifland, and that lough they were continually going from place to (ace, they did not, like the little llrolling companies of (taheitc, take any gratuity from the ipe£l:ators. The [omen had upon their heads a confiderable quantity of unou, or plaited hair, which was brought feveral times |und the head, and adorned in many parts with the ^wcrs of the cape-jeffamine, which were (luck in with Juch tafte, and made a head-drefs truly elegant. Their (cks, flioulders, and arms were naked ; lb were the jails alio as low as the parting of the aqii ; bejow It, they were covered with black cloth, Vthich let ^^ol. L-N" 6. Gg dole 134 CAPTAIN COOK'b FIRST VOYAQE. -.T clofe to the body ; at the lide of each hreaft, next the arm, W9S placed a ftnall plume of black feathers, mvich in the fame manner as our ladies now wear their nofe- gays or Bouquets ; upon their hips refted a quantity of cloth plaited very full, which reached up to the breaA, anti fell down below into long petticoats, which quite , concealed their feet, and which they managed with as much dexterity as our opera dancers could have done : the plaits above the waift were brown and white alter- nately, the petticoats below were all whiie. In this drefs they advanced Tideways in a nieafured Aep, keeping excellent time to '..e drums, which beat brifkly and loud ; foon after they began to (I>ake their hips, giving the folds of cloth that lay upon them a very .quick motion, wluch was in fome degree continued through the whole dance, though the body was thrown iflto various poftures, foraetimes ftanding, fometimes fitting, and fometimes retting on their knees and elbows, the fingers aUb being moved at the fame time with a quicknefs fcarcely to be imagined. Much of the dexte- rity of the dancers, however, and the entertainment of the fpedlators, coniifted in the wanton nefs of their at- titudes and geftures, which was, indeed, fuch as ex- ceeds all defcription. One of thefe girls had in her ear three pearls ; one of them was very large, but fo foul that it was of little va- lue ; the other two were xss big as a midclling pea ; thefe were clear, and of a good colour and (hape, though fpoiled by the drilling. Mr Banks would fain have purchafed them, and offered the owner any thing Ihe would afk for them, but ihe could not be perfuaded to part with them at any price : he tempted her with the value of four hogs, and whatever elfe (he ftiould chufe, but without fuccefs ; aiul, indeed, they fet a value upon their pcaitls very nearly equal to what they would fetch among ,ufi, except they could be procured before they are drilled. Between the dances of the women, the men pc - formed a Idud of dramatic interludei in which there was .•V CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 235 was dialogue as well as dancing ; but we were not fufl ficiently acquainted with their language to underRatKl thefubjed. On the 4th, fome of our gentlemen faw a much mor* regular entertainment of the dramatic kind, which was divided into four ads. Tupia had often told us that he had large pofleffionA in this ifland, which had been taken away from him by the inhabitants of Bolabola, and he now pointed them out in the very bay where the (hip was at anchor. Up- dh our going on Ihorc this was confirmed by the in- habitants, who (hewed us feveral diftridsor Whennuas, which they acknowiv Jgcd to be his right. On the 5ih, I received a prefent of three hogs, (bme fowisi feveral pieces of cloth, the largeft we had feen, being fifty yards long, which they unfolded and difplay- ed fo as to make the greateft (how poflible ; and a c6n* fiderable quantity of plantains, cocoa-nuts, and other |?e- frefliments, from Opoony, the formidable king, or,^ia the language of the country, Earee rahie of Bolabo!a^ with a menage that he was at this time upon the iflattd, and that the next day he intended to pay me a vrfit. In the mean time Mr Banks and Dr Solander went upon the hills, accompanied by feveral of the Indians, who conduced them, by excellent j)aths, to fuch a height, that they plainly faw the other iide of the ifland, and the paflage through which the fhip had paflTed the reef between the little iflaqds of Opururu and Tamou, when we landed upon it the fifft time. As they were returning, they faw the Indians cxereifing themfctves at what they call Erowbawy which is nothing more thaii- pitching a kind of light lance, headed with hard wood, at a mark ; in this amufement, though they feem Very fond of it, they do not excel, for not above otie in twelve ftruck the mark, which was the bole of a plantain tree, at about twenty yards diftance. On the 6th, we all ftaid at home, expeding the vifit of the great king, but we were difappoirtted ; we had> however, much more agreeable company, for he fent O5 ^ ;hr^9 •*3<^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. three very pretty girls to demand fomething in return for his prcfent : perhaps he was unwilling to trufl: him- felf on bor>:l the (hip, or perhaps he thought his mcf- fengers would procure a more valuable return for his hogs and poultry than he could himfelf ; be that as it may, we did not regret his abfence, nor his meflengers their vifit. In the afternoon, as the great king would not come to us, we determined to go to the great king. As he was lord of the Bolabola men, the conqerors of this, and the terror of all the other iflands, we expected to fee a Chief young and vigorous, with an intelligent countenance, and an enterprifing fpirit : we found, however, a poor feeble wretch, withered and decrepit, half blind with age, and fo (luggifh and ilupid that he' appeared fcarcely to have underftanding enough left to know that it was pro- bable we (hould be gratified either by hogs or women. He did not receive us fitting, or with any ftate or for- mality as the other Chiefs had done : we made him our prefent, which he accepted, and gave a hog i:.i return. Wc had learnt that his principal refidf nee was at Otaha ; and upon our telling him that we intended to go thither in our boats the next morning, and that we mould be glad to have him along with us, he promifed to be of the party* Early in the next morning, therefore, I fet out both with the pinnace and long-boat for Otaha, having fome of the gentlemen with me ; and in our way we called upon Opoony, who was in his canoe, ready to join us. As foon as we landed at Otaha, I made him a preient of an ax, ivhich I thought might induce him to encourage his fubje£ts to bring us fuch provifion as we wanted ; but in this we found ourfelves ladly difappointed, for af- ter flaying with him till noon, we left him without be- ing able to procure a fingle article. I then proceeded to the north point of the ifiand, in the pinnace, having lent the long-boat another way. As I went along I picked up halfa dozen hogs, as many fowls, and fome plan- tains and yams. Having viewed and fketch^d the har- bour CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 237 ►me to ie was id the , Chief nance, a poor ch age, ccly to aspro- ronr»er. or foT- ini our return, ptaha; thither )u]d be o be of hour on this fide of the ifland, I made the beft.of my way back, with the long-boat, which joined me foon after it was dark ; and about ten o'clock at night we got on board the (hip. In this excurfion Mr Banks was hot with us; he fpent the morning onboard the fliip, trading with the natives, who came ofFin their canoes, for provifions and curio- fities ; and in the afternoon he went on ftiore with his draughtfman, to fketch the drefles of the dancers which he had fcen a day or two before. He found the company cxadly the fame, except that another woman had been added to it: the dancing alio of the women was the fame, but the interludes of the men were fomewhat varied ; he faw five or fix performed, which were different from each other, and very much refembled the drama of our ftage dances. The next day, he went a{hoi*e again, with Dr Solandl^r, and they directed their courfe to- . wards the dancing company, which, from the time of our fecond landing, had gradually moved about two leagues in their courfe round the ifland. They faw more dancing and more interludes, the interludes ftill varying trom each other : in one of them the per* formers, who were all men, were divided into two parties, which were diftinguiflied from each other by the colour of their clothes, one being brown and the other white. The brown party reprefented a mafter and fervants, and the white party a company of thieves : the mailer gave a bafket of meat to the reft of his party, with a charge to take care of it : the dance of the white party confifted of feveral expedients to ftcal it, and tliat of the brown party in preventing their fuccefs. After fome time, thofe who had charge of the baflcet placed themfelves round it, upon the ground, and leaning up- on it, appeared to go to fleep ; the others, improving I this opportunity, came gently upon them, and lifting them up from the baiket, carried off" their prize : the Ileepers foon after awaking, miflfed their bafket, but Iprelently fell a dancing, without any farther regarding [their lols ; fo that the dramatic adion of this dance was, ^qcord-B 53» CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGfi. according to the fevereft lawsrof criticifm^ one, ind bur lovers of fimplicity would here have been gratified with an entertainment perfedly fuited to the chaftity of theit tafte. On the 9th, having fbent the morning in trading with the canoes, we took the opportunity of a breeze, which I'prung up at Eaft, and having ftopped our leak, and got the frefli dock which we had purchafed on board, we failed out of the harbour. When we were failing away, Tupia ftrongly urged me to fire a Ihot to- wards Bolabola, poflibly as a mark of his refentment, and to fhew the power of his new allies : in this I thought proper to gratify him, though We were feven Jes^ues diftapt. While we were about thefe iflands, We expanded very little of the (hip's provifions, and were ve^ plen- tifully fupplied with hogs, fo\yl6, plantains anu yams, which we hoped would have been of great ufe to, us in ^ir courfe to the fouthward : but the hogs would not eat European grain of any kind, pulfe, or bread- dufl, fo that we cculd not prefefve them alive ; and the fowls were all very foon feized with a difeale that afFeifted the head fo, that they continued to hold it down be- tween their legs till they died : much dependence there- fcrfe muft not be placed in live ftock taken c board at •diefe places, at lead not till a difcovefy is made of fome food tnat the hogs will eat, and fome remedy for t^e difeafe of tlie poultry. ^ 'Having been neceflarily detained at Ulietea fft long, by the carpenters in ftopping our leak, we determined to ^ive up our defigp ot going on fliore at Bolabola, especially as it appeared to be difficult of accefs. To thefe fix iflands, Ulietea, Otaha, Bolabola, Hiia- heine, Tubai, and Maurua, as they Ije contiguous to each other, I gave the names of Society Islands, but did not think it proper to diflinguifh them feparately by any cJthfer names than thdfe by which they were knowft to the natives. They are fituated bet^veen the latitude pf 16 d. lofti, CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 23f and 16. d. 55 m. S. and between the longitude of 150^. 57 m. and 152 d. W, from the meridian of Greeri- wich. Ulietea and Otaha He within about two mlt» of each other, and are both inclofed within one I'eef of coral rocks, fo that there is no paflage for ftiii>- Sing between them. This reef forms feveral exceHeat arbours ; the entrances into them, indeed, are but nar- row, yet when a fhip is once in, nothing can hurt her. The harbours on the eaft fide have been defcribed al- ready ; and on the v/eft fide of Ulietea, which is the largeft of the two, there are three. The northermoft* in which we lay, is called Oh amaneno : the channel leading into it is about a quarter of a mile wide, an4 lies between two low fandy iflands', which are the nor- thermoft o;i this fide; between, or juft within the two iflands, there isgood anchorage in twenty-eightjfathom, foft grounj^. This harbour, tihough fmall, is preferable to the others, becaufe it is fituated in the moft fertUe. part of the ifland, and where frefh water is eafily to be got. The other two harbours lie to the fouthw^rd of this, and not far from the ib'Uh end of the ifland ; ia both of them there is gopd anchorage, with ten, twelve, and fourteen fathom. They areeafiiy known by three fmall woody iflands at their entrance. The fouthf" ermoft of thefe two harbours lies within, and to the fouthward of the fouthermoft of theCe iflands, and the other lies between tlic two northermoft. 1 was told that there were more harbours at the fouth end of thi« iflanS, but I did not .e?caraLine whether tlie report wa» true. Otaha affords two very good harbours, one on the cafl: fide, and the othqr on the weft. That on the eaft fide is called Ohamene, and has been mentioned alreor dy; the other is called Oherurua, and lies about the middle of the fouth- weft .fide of the iiland ; it is- pretty large, and affords good anchorage in twenty and twenty- five fathom, nor is there any want of frelh water* TJie breach in the reef, that forms a channel into this har-^^ feour, is about ^ quarter of a mile broad, and like all tk^: reft ,/• 240 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. reft is very fteep on both fides ; in general there is no danger here but what is vifible. Tlie ifland of Bolabola lies N. W. and by W. from Otaha, diftant about four leagues ; it is furrounded by a reef of rocks, and feveral fmall illands, in compafs to- gether about eight leagues. I was told, that on the fouth weft fide of the ifland there is a channel through the reef into a very good harbour, but I did not think it worth while to examine it, for the reafons that have been juft afligned. This ifland is rendered very remark- able by a high craggy hill, which appears to be almoft perpendicular, and terminates at the top in two peaks, one higher than the other. The land of Ulietea and Otaha is hilly, broken, and irregular, except on the fea coaft, yet the hills look green and pleaiant, and are in many places clothed with wood. The feveral particulars in wnich thefe iflands and their inhabitants differ from what we had obferved at Ota- heitc, have been mentioned in the courfe of the nar- rative. We purfued our courfe without any event worthy of note tin the 1 3th, about noon, when we faw land bear- ing S. E. wliich Tupia told us was an ifland called Oheteroa. About fix in the evening, we were with- in two or three leagues of it, upon which I lliortened fail, and ftood off and on all night : the next morning ftood in for the land. We ran to leeward of the ifland, keeping clofc in ftiore, and faw feveral of the natives, though in no great numbers, upon the beach. At nine o'clock I fent Mr Gore, one or my Lieutenants, in the pinnace, to endeavour to land upon the illand, and learn from the natives whether there was anchorage in a bay then in fight, and what land lay farther to the fouth- ward. Mr Banks and Dr Solander accompanied Mr Gore in this expedition, and as they thought Tupia might beufeful, they took him with them. As the Dcat approached the piore, thofe on board per- ceived the natives to be armed with long lances; as they did not intend to land till they got rou»d a point which ruQ m: CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 241 run out at a little diftance, they ftood along the coaft, and the natives therefore very probably thought they were afraid of them. They had now got tocether to the number of about fixty, and all of them fat down up- on the (hore, except two, who were difpatched for- ward to obferve the motions of thofe in the boat. Thefe men, after walking abreaft of her fome time, at length leaped into the water, and fwam towards her, but were foon left behind ; two more then appeared, and attempted to board her in the fame* manner, but they alfo were foon left behind ; a fifth man tnen ran forward alone, and having got a good way a-head of the boat before he took to the water, eafiljr reached her. Mr Banks urged the officer to take him in, thinking it a good opportunity to get the confidence and good- will of a people, who then certainly looked upon theca as enemies, but he obflinately refufed : this man there- fore was left behind like the others, and fo was a fixth, who followed him. When the boat had got round the point, (he perceived that all her followers had defified from the purfuit : fhe now opened a large bay, at the bottom of which appear- ed another body of men, armed with long lanc^ like the firft. Here our people prepared to land, and pufh- ^d towards the fliore, a canoe at the fame time putting off to meet them. As foon as it came near them, they lay upon their oars, and calling out to them, told them that they were friends^ and that if they would come up they would give themi nails, which were held up for them to fee : after fome hefitation they came up to the boat's ftern, and took Ibme nails that were offered them with great feeming fatisfadion ; but in lefs than a mi- nute they appeared to hav» formed a defign of board- ing the boat, and making her their prize : three of them fuddenly leaped into it, and th^ others brought up the canoe, which the motion in quitting her had throw4 off a little, manifeflly with a delign to follow their aljfo- ciates, and fupport them in their attempt, lie firft that boarded the boat, entered clofe to Mr Banks; and ; Vol.l.~N«7. ^ nh iaftam^- 141 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. willantly fnatched his powder-horn out of his poclct : Mr Banks feized it, and with fome difficulty wrenched it out of his hand, at the fame time prefling againil his breaft in order to force him over-board, but he was too ftrong for him, and kept his place : the officer then fnap- ped his piece, but it miffed nre, upon which he ordered fome of the people to fire over their heads ; two pieces were accordingly difcharged, upon which they all in- ftantly leaped mto the water : one of the people, either from cowardice or cruelty, or both, levelled a third piece at one of them as he was fwimming away, and the ball grazed his forehead ; happily, however, tne wound was very flight, for he recovered the canoe, and flood up in her as adive and vigorous as the reft. The canoe imme- diately ftood in for the fliore, where a great number of people not lefs than two hundred, were now affembled. The boat alfo puftied in, but found the land guarded all round with a flioal, upon which the fea broke with a coniiderable furf j it was therefore thought advifable by the officer to proceed along the (hore in fearch of a more convenient landing-place : in the mean time the people on board faw the canoe go on fliore, and the na- nves gather eagerly round her to enquire the particulars of what had happened. Soon after, a fmgle man ran along the (hore, armed with his lance, and when he came a-breaft of the boat he began to dance, brandiih his weap6n, and cal! out in a very flirill tone which Tupia faid was a defiance from the people. The boat conti- nued to row along the fhore, and the champion follow- ed it, repeating his defiance by his voice and his gef- tures ; but no better landing-place being found than that where the canoe had put the natives on fhore, the officer turned back with a view to attempt it there, hoping, that if it fhould. not be practicable, the people would come to a conference either on the (hoals or in their canoeSj and that a treaty of peace might be con- cluded with them. Aa the boat rowed flowly along the (hpre back again, another champion came down, fhouting defiance, and bran- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 243 brandilhtng his laoce : his appearance was more formi- dable liian that of the other, for he wore a large cap made of the tail feathers of the tropic bird, and his bo- dy was covered with ftripes of different coloured cloth, yellow, red, and brown. This gentleman alfo danced, but with much more nimblenefs and dexterity than the firft; our people, therefore, confidering liis agility and his drefs diftmeuifhed him by the name of Harle- quin. Soon after a more grave and elderly man came down to the beach, and hailing the people in the boat, enquired who they were, and from whence they came j Tupia anfwered in their own language, from Ofaheite : the three natives then walked peaceably along the (hore till they came to a (hoal, upon which a few peopld were colledlcd ; here they flopped, and after a ihort confer- ence, they all began to pray very loud : Tupia made his rciponfes, but continued to tell us that they were not our friends. When their pray er, or as they call it,their PooraA, was over, our people entered into a parley with them, telling them that ii they would lay by theu* lances and clubs, for fome had one and fome the other, they would- come on fhore and trade with them for whatever they would bung ; they agreed, but it was only upon condi-* tion that we would leave behind us our mufquets : this was a condition which, however equitable it might ap- pear, could not be complied with, nor indeed would it nave put the two parties upon an equality^ except their numbers had been equal. Here then tae negociation icemed to be at an end j hut in a little time they ven- tured to come nearer to the boat, and at laft cane near enough to trade, which they did very fairly, for a fmall quantity of their cloth an^l fome of their weapo.i8 ; but as they gave our people uo hope of provifloijs, nor ia- deed any thing elfbi except they would venture through a narrow channel to the more, which, all cir:cuiTkftaiipef confidei-ed, they did not think it prudent to ^q, tb^ put off the boat and left them. With the fhip and the boafwe had now made the cuTn iuit of the ifland^ aad finding that theire was neither, G g a bar- rp 244 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. harbour nor anchoraee about it, and that the hoflile diC- podtion of the people would render landing impradi-* cable, without bloodfhed, I determined not to attempt it, having no motive that could juftify therifk of life. TTie bay which the boat entered lies on the weft fide of the ifland, the bottom was foul and rocky, but the water fo clear that it could plainly be feen at the depth of €ivc and twiomty fathom, which is one hundred and fifty feet. This ifland Is fituated in the latitude of 22 d. 27 m.. S. and in the longitude of 1^0 d. 47 m. W. from the meridian of Greenwich. It is thirteen miles in circuit, 9 ad rather high than low, but neither populous nor fer- dle, in proportion to the other iflands that we had feen in thefe feas. The chief produce feems to be the tree of which they make their weapons, called in their lan^ guage Etoa ; many plantations of it were feen along the fliore, which is not furrounded, like the neighbour- ingiflands, by a reef. The people feemed to be lufty and well-made, rather browner than thofe we had left : under their arm-pits they had black marks about as broad as the hand, the edges of which formed not a ftrait but an indented line ; they had alfo circles of the fame colour, but not fo broad, round their arms and le^s, but were not marked on any other part of the body. Their drefs was very dilierent from any that we had feen before, as well as the cloth of which it was made. The cloth was of the fame materials as that which is worn in the other iflands, and moft of that which was feen by our people was dyed of a bright but deep yel- low, and covered on the outfide with a compofition liikc / varnifhj which was either red, or of a dark lead-'colour j over this ground it was again painted in ftiipes of many different patterns, with wonderful regularity, in the manner of our flriped filks in England ; the cloth that was pointed red was ftriped with black, and that which was painted lead-colour with white. Their habit was $1 (hort jacket of this cloth, which reached about as low CAPTAIN COOr$ FIRST VOYAGE. Us as their knees; it was of one piece, and had no other making than a hole in the middle of it, ditched round with long ftitches, in which it differed from all that we had feen before : through this hole the head was put, and what hung down was confined to their bodies by a a piece of yellow cloth or fafli, which pafling round the neck behind, was crofTed upon the breaft, and then col- le IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) i^ ^/ /^\% < v*.^ / v^ r/- 1.0 I.I L4M2.8 |50 *^* U6 lU 11:25 i 1.4 6" i 2.5 2.2 2.0 1.6 vQ yl 7 %^^ '> HiotDgraphic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. I4SS0 (716)872-4503 k^ \ 4 •s? \ ;\ ^>A ^ ^^<^ 270 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. was then every where chequered with fnow. Ac night we faw two nres inland, fo "Cery large, that we con- cluded they mull have been made to clear the land of tillage ; but, however that be, they are a demonftration that the part of the country where they appeared is in- habited. - On the' 1 8th, at four o'clock in the morning. Cape Kidnappers bore N. 32 W. diftant two leagues : in this iituation we had fixty-two fathom, and when the Cape bore W, by N. diftant three or four leagues, we had forty-five fathom : in the mid-way between the ifland of Portland and the Cape we had fixty-five fathom. In the evening, being abreaft of the peninfala within Port- land ifland, called Terakaco, a canoe came off fi'om that fhore, and with much difficulty overtook the fhip : there were on board live people, two of whom appear- ed to be Chiefs, and the other three fervants : the Chiefs, /with very little invitation came on board, and ordered the reft to remain in their canoe. We treated them with great kindnefs, and they were not backward in ex- prefling their fatisfai^ion ; they went down into the cabbin, andj after a (hort time told us that they had de- termined not to go on fhore till the next morning. As the (leeping on board was an honour which we neither expected nor defired, I remonftrated ftrongly againfl it, and told them, that on their account it would not be proper, as the fhip would probably be at a great diftance from where fhe was then, the next morning : they perfifted, however, in their refolution, and as I found it impofl[ible to get rid of them without turning them by force out of the fhip, I complied : as a proper precau- tion, however, I propofed to take their iervants alfo on board, and hoift their canoe into the fliip ; they made no objedtion, and this was accordingly done. The countenance of one of thefe Chiefs was the moft open and ingenuous of all I have ever feen, and I very loon gave up every fufpicion of his having any fmifler de- Bgn: they both examined every thing they faw with great CAPTAIN C00IC»8 FIRST VOYAGE. 271 ?Teat curiofity and attention, and received very thank- ully fuch little prefents as we made them ; neither dt'^ them, however, could be perfuaded either to eat or ; drink, but their fervants devoured every thing they could get with great voracity. We found that thele men had heard of our kindnel?' and liberality to the na- tives who had been on board before, yet we thought the confidence they placed in us, an extraordinary in- ftance of their fortitude. « At night I brought to till day- light, and then made fail ; atjeven in the morning, I brought to again under Cape Table, and feat away our guefts with their canoe, whoexprefled fome furprifeat feeing themfelves fo far from home, but landed abreaft of the (hip. At this time I faw other canoes putting off from the (hore, but I flood away to the northward without waiting for their coming up. About three, I pafled a reiparkable head land, which I called Gable-End-Foreland, from the very great likenefs of the white cliff at the point, to the gable-end of a houfe : it is not more remarkable for its figure, than for a rock which rifes like a fpire at a little diftance. It lies from Cape Table N. 24 E. diftant about twelve leagues. The (hore between them forms a bay, with- in which lies Poverty Bay, at the diftanct of four leagues from the head land, and eight from the Cape.. At this place three canoes came off to us, and one man came on board ; we gave him fome trifles, and he foon returned to his boat, which, with all the rell xlropped aftern. in the morning I made fail in fliore, in order to look into two bays, v/hich appeared about two leagues to the northward of the Foreland ; the fouthermoft I could not fetch, but I anchored in the other about eleven o'clock. Into this bay we were invited by the people on board many canoes, who pointed to a place where they faid there was plenty of ir^fh water : 1 did not find fo good ft Ihelter from the fea as I expeded, but th.e natives who came ,'^a<«*"**'- tjl CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE^ eame about us, appearing to be of a friendly difpofKioni I was determined to try whether I could not get fome knowledge of the country here before I proceeided far- ther to the north^^ard. In* one of the canoes that came about us as foon as we anchored, we faw two men, who^ by their habits, xppeaiftd to be Chiefs : one of them was dreffed in a jaacef, which was ornamented, after their manner,with dog's fkin ; the jacket of the other was almoil covered wid« fmall tuifts of red feathers. Thefe men I invited on board, and they entered the (hip with very little hefitation : I gave each of them about four yards of linen, and a fpike nail ; with the linen they were much l^eafied) but feemed tXD iet no' value upon thenaiik We perceived that chey knew what had) happened in* Pover- ty Bay, we had, therefore,, no reafon to doubt but that they would behave peaceably ; however, for further fecurity, Tupia was crdered to tfeU them for what pur* |rofe we came thither, and to aflbre them that we would €f§kt them no injury, if they oflered none to us. In the mean time thole who remained in the canoes traded with our people very fairly for what they happened to have with them : the Chiefs, who were old men,.ftaid witH US' till we had dined,, and about two o'clock I put (ffffwith the boats, manned and armed, in order to go en ihore in fearch of water, and the two Chiefs went into the boat with me. The afternoon was tempeftu-r ous^ with much rain, aind the furf tvuy wheile ran fo high, that although we rowed almoil round the bay, we found no place where we could land ; I determined, therefbre, to return to the fhip, which being intimated toihe Chiefs, they called to the people on ihore,.and or** d'ered a canoe to oe fent off for themfelVes ; this was ac" cordingly done, and they left us, promKing to come on feoard' again in the mommg, and bring, us jome fi(h and f>»«et potatoes. In. the* evening, the weather having become fair and moderate, th6 boats- were ag^ain ordered out, and Iland^ CAPtAlN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 27 j ed, accompanied by Mr Banks and DrSolander. We were received with great exprefnons of friendfliip by the natives, who behaved with a fcrupulous attention not to give offence. In particular, tliey took care no]^ to ap- pear in great bodies : one family, or the inhabitants of two or three houfcs only, were generally placed to- gether, to the number 01 fifteen or twenty, conlifting of men, women, and children. Thefe little companies fat upon the ground, not advancing towards us, but in- viting us to them, by a kind of beckon, moving one hand towards the breaft. We made them feveral little prefents ; and in our walk round the bay found two imall dreams of frelh water. This convenience, and the friendly behaviour of the people, determined me to ftay at l 'ft a day, that I might fill fome of my empty cafks, and give Mr Banks an opportunity of examiniiig the natural produce of the countr\\ In the morning of the 21ft, I fent Lieutenant Gore on fliore, to fuperintend the watering, with a ftrong Sartv of men ; and they were foon followed by Mr lanks and Dr Solander, with Tupia, Tayeto, and fouf others. The natives fat by our people, and feemed pleafed to obi'erve them ; but did not intermix with tl^m : they traded, however, chiefly for cloth, and after a (hort time applied to their ordinary occupations, as if no ftranger had been among them. In the forenoon, feveral of their boats went out a-fiftiing, and at dinner time every one repaired to his refpedive dwelling ; from which, after a certain time, he returned. Thefe fair appear- ances encouraged Mr Banks and Dr Solander to range the bay with veiy little precaution, where they found many plants, anci fhot fome birds of exquifite beauty.. In their walk, they vifited feveral houfes of the natives, and faw fomething of their manner of life ; for they fhowed, without any referve, every thing which the gentlemen defired to fee. Tliey were fometimes found at their meals, which the approach of the ftrangcrs never interrupted. Their food at this feafon coniifted Vgl.I.-N«'7. Mm of . *.4 374 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. cf fifli, with which, inftead of bread, they eat the root of a kind of fern, very like that which grows upon our commons in England. Thefe roots they fcprch over the fire, and then beat with a ftick, till the bark and dry outfide fall off; what remains is a f6ft fubftance, fome- what clammy and fweet, not unpleaiing to the tafte, mixed with three or four times its quantity of ftrings and fibres, which are very difagreeable ; thefe were fwallowed by fome, but fpit out by the far greater num- ber, who had bafkets under them to receive the reje«£ted jpart of what had been chewed, which had an appear- ance very like that of tobacco in the fame ftate. In other feafons they have certainly plently of excellent vegetables ; but no tame anintals were feen among them except dogs,' which were very fmall and ugly. Mr Banks faw fome of their plantations, where the ground \yas as well broken down and tilled as even in the gar- dens of the rrioft curious people among us : in thefe fpots were fweet potatoes, coccos or eddas, vvhich are well known and much eftcemed both in the Eaft and Weft Indies, and fome gourds : the fweet potatoes were planted in fmall hills, fome ranged iri rows, and others m quincunx, all laid by a line with the greateft regula- rity : the coccos were planted upon flat land, but none of thehi yet appeared above groutid ; and the gourds were fct in fmaJl hollows, or diflies, much as in Eng- land. Thefe plantations were of different extent, irom one or two acres to ten : taken together, there appear- ed to be from 150 to 200 acres m cultivation in the whole bay, though we never faw an hundred peojile. Each diftrid: was fenced in, generally with reeds, which were placed fo clofe together that there was fcarcely room for a moufe to creep between. The women were plain, and made themfelves more fo by painting their faces with red pore and oil, which being generally freih and wet upon their cheeks and foreheads, was eafiKr transferred to the nofes of thofe who thoiight fit to falute them ; and that they were not wholly averfe to fuch familiarity^ the nofes of feveralof our CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. l^$ our people ftrongly teftified : they were, however, as preat coquettes as any of the mofl lafhonable ladies in Europe, and the young ones as fkittifh as an unbrokeil fiiiy : each of them wore a petticoat, under which there was a girdle, made of blade of grafs highly perfumed, and to the girdle was fattened a final I bunch of the leaves of fome fragrant plant, which fer\'ed their modef- ty as its innermoR veil. The fgces of the men were not fo generally painted, yet we faw one whofc whole body, and even his garments, were rubbed over with dry ocre, of which he kept a piece conftantly in his hand, and was every minute renewing the decoration in one part or another, where he fuppofed it was be- come deficient. In perfonal delicacy they were not equal to our friends at Otaheite, for the coldnefs of the climate did not invite them fo often to bathe ; but we faw among them one inftance of cleanlinefs in which they exceeded them, and of which perhaps there is no example in any other Indian nation. Every houfe, of every litrie clufter of three or four houfes, was fumilh- ed with a privy, fo that the ground was every where clean. The offals of their food, and other litter, were alfo piled up in regular dunghills, which probably they made ule of at a proper time for manure. In this decent article of civil otconomy they were be- forehand with one of the mod confiderable nations of Europe, for I am credibly informed, that, till the year 1760, there was no fuch thing as a privy in Madrid, the metropolis of Spain, though it is plentifully fup- plied with water. Before that time it was the univer^ fa! practice to throw the ordure out of the windows, during the night, into the ftreet, where numbers of men were employed to remove it, with fhovels, frond the upper parts of the city to the lower, where it lay till . it was dr)r, and was then earned away in carts, ana de- pofited without the gates. His prefent Catholic MajeC« ty, having determined to free his capital from fo grofsa nuifance, ordered, by proclamation, that the proprietor of every houfc ihpuld build a privy,and that rmb,drains, M m :^ and 2^6 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. and common fuerSjilioiild be made at the public expence. The Spaniards, though long accuftomed to an arbitrary government, refented this proclamation with great fnirit, as an infringement of the common rights ot mankind, and made a vigorous ftniggle againll its being carried into execution. Every clafs deviled Tome objedlion againft it, but the phyficians bid the faireft to intcreft the king in the prefervation of the ancient privileges of his peo- ple ; for they remonftrated that if the filth was not, as ufual, throw^n into the ftrcets a fatal licknefs would pro- bably enfue, becaufe the putrefcent particles of the air, which fuch filth attracted would then be imbibed by the hunuin body. . But this ex]>cdient, with every other that could be thought of, proved unfuccefsful, and the popular difcontent then ran fo high, that it was ycvy near producing an infurre^tion ; his Majefty, however, at length prevailed, and Madrid is now as clear as moft of the coniiderable cities in Europe. But many of the eitizensj probably upon the principles advanced by their phyficians, that heaps of filth prevent deleterious par^ tides pf air from fixing upon neighbouring fubftances, have, to keep their food wholefom? coqftrudted their privies by the kitchen fire, In the evening, all our boats being employed in car- rying the water on board, Mr Banks and his company tinding it probable that they fhould be left on fliore af- ter it was dark, by which much time would be loft, ■which they were impatient to employ in putting the plants they had gathered in order, they applied to the Indians for a paflage in one of their canoes : they im- mediately confented, and a car.oe was launched for their ufe. They went all on board, being eight in num- ber, but not being ufed to a veffel that required fo even a balance, they unfortunately overfet her in the furf : no life, however, was loft, but it was thought advifeable that half pf them ihould wait for anpther turn. Mr Banks, Dr Solander, Tupia, and Tayeto embarked again, and without anv farther accident, arrived fafely at the (hip, well pleafea with the good-nature of their Indian friends, vfhq cheerfully undertook to Ciyry them a fecpnd time^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 277 after having experienced how unfit a freight they were lor fvich a veflel. While thefe gentlemen were on fhore, feveral of the tiativcswent ofi'to the fhip,and trafficked, hy exchange \n^ their cloth for that of Otaheite : of tliis baner they were for fome time very fond, preferring the Indian cloth to that of Europe ; but before night it decreafed in its value five hundred per cent. Many of thefe Indi- ans I took on board, and fhewed them the fliip and. her apparatus, at which they expreifed equal fatisfadion and aftonifiiment. As I found it exceedingly difficult to get water on hoard on afijount of the lurf, I determined to flay no longer at mis place ; on the next morning, therefore, about five o'clock, I weighed anchor and put to fea. This bay, which is called by the natives Tegadoo, lies in the latitude of 38 d. 10 m. S. but as it has nothing to recommend it, a aefcriprion of it is unnecefTary. From this bay I intended td Hand on to the north- ward, but the wind being right againft me, I could make no way. While 1 was beating about to wind- ward, fome of the natives came on board, and told me, that in a bay 'which lay a little to the fouthward, being the fame that I could not fetch the day I pu| into Tega- doo, there was excellent water, where the boats might land without a furf! I thought it better therefwe to put into this bay, where I mi^ht complete my water, and form farther connexions with the Indians, than to keep the fea. With this view I bore up for it, and fent in two boats to examine the watering-place, who confirn!!'^ ing the report of the Indians at their return, I came to ai\ anchor about one o'clock, in eleven fathom water, with a fine fandy bottom, the north point of the bay N. by. E. and the fouth point S, E. The watering-place, which was in a fmall cove a little within the fouth point of the bay, bore S. by E. diftant about a mile. Many canoes came immediately off from the (hore, and all traded very honeftly for Otaheite cloth and glafs bottles, of which they were iijnmoderajtely fgnd^ 27« CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. In the afternoon of the 23d, as foon as the (hip was moored, I went on (hore to examine the watering-place, accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander : the boat landed in the cove, without the lead furf ; the water was excellent, and conveniently fituated ; there was plenty of wood clofe to high-water mark, and the dif» Iiofition of the people was in every refpe order to carry away with them. In the evening Mr Banks walked up the river, which at the mouth looked tine and broad, but at the diftance of a- bout two miles was not deep enough to cover the foot ; and the coi|ntry inland was Hill more barren than at the fea-fide. The feine and dredge were not more fuc- cefsful to-d^»y than yefterday, but the Indians in foms meafure copipenfated for the difappointment by bring- ing us fevepal bafltets of fiQi, fome dry, and fome frelh dreffed ; it was not, indeed, of the beft, but I ordered it all to be l)ought for the encouragement of trade. On the ^th, the weather was fo bad that none of us left the flwp, nor did any of the Iiidians come on board. On the Jith, I fent a party of men on fliorc to wood and watery and in the mean time many canoes came off, in one of which was our friend Toiava ; foon jtfter he was alopgfide of the Ihip, he faw two canoes coming from the cjppofite lide of the bay, upon which he hafted b^cl? 294 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. back again to the fliore with all his canoes, telling us that he was afraid of the people who wer^ coming : this was a farther proof that the people of this country- were perpetually committing hoftilities againft each other. In a fliort time, however, he returned, having difcovered that the people who had alarmed him were not the fame that he had fuppofed. The natives that came to the fliip this morning fold us, for a few pieces of cloth, as much filh of the mackrel kind as ferved the whole lliip's company, and they were ?z good as ever were eaten. At noon, this day, I obfcrved the fun's meridional zenith di fiance by an aftronomical quadrant, which gave the latitude 36 d. 47 m. 43 i, within the fouth entrance of the bay. Mr Banks and Dr Solander went on fhore and coL ledted a great variety of plants, altogether unknown, and not returning till the evening, had ^n opportunity of obferving in what manner the Indians difpoled them- fplves to paS the night. They had no (helter but a few i!>rubs : the women and the children were ranged inner- moft, or fartheft from the fea ; the men I^y in a kind of half circle round them, and their arms were fet up againft the trees clofe by them, in a manner which Ihowed that they were afraid of an attack by fome enemy not far diftant. It was alfo difcovered that they acknowledged neither Teratu, nor any other perfon as their king : as in this particular they diftered from all the people that we had (ecn upon other parts of the coaft, we thought it poflible that they might be a fet of outlaws, in a ftate of rebellion againft Teratu, and in that tafe they might have nofetded habitations, or cultivated land in any part of the country. On the 9th, at day-break, a great number of canoes came on board, loaded with mackrel of two forts, one exadly the fame with thofe caught iii England, and the other lomewhat different : we imagined the people had taken a large (hoal, and brought us an overplus which they could not confiime ; for they fold them at a very }ow r^te. They were, however, very welcpmc to us ; 9X CAPTAIN COOK^s FIRST VOYAGE. 293 nt eight o'clock, the (hip had more fifli on board than all her people could eat in three days ; and before night, the quantity was lb much increaled, that every man who could get fait, cured as many as would lalt him a month. About noon, wc were alarmed by the firing of a great gun from the fliip ; Mr Gore, my Second Lieu- tenant, was at this time commanding officer on board, and the account that he gave was this. While fomc fmall canoes were trading with the people, two ver\' large ones came up, full of men, one of them having on toard forty- fcven, all armed with pikes, darts, and ftoncs, and apparantly with a hoftile intention : they appeared to be ftrangers, and to be confcious of fuperl- ority over us by their numbers, than afraid of any wea- pons which could give us the fuperiority over them : no attack however was made ; probably becaufe they learnt from the people in the other canoes, with whom they immediately entered into conference, what kind of an enemy they had to deal with : after a little time, they began to trade, fome of them offe* ing their arms, anti one of them a fquare piece of cloth, which makes a part of their drefs, called a Haahozv ; feveral of the weapons were purchafed, and Mr ^iore having agreed for a Haahow, fent down the price which v.-as a piece of Britifli cloth, and expeded his purchafe : but the Indi- an, as foori as he had got Mr Gore's cloth in his pofTef- iion, refufed to part with his own, aJYd put off the ca- noe : upon being threatened for this fraud, he and his companions began to fing their v»'ar fong in defiance, and ihook their paddles : iiill however they began no attack, only defying Mr Gore to take any remedy ia his power, which fo provoked him that he levelled a muiquet loaded with ball at the offender, while he was holding the cloth in his hand, and ihot hiifi dead. It would have been happy, if the efFed of a few fmall fliot had been tried on this occaiion, which upon fome others had been fuccefsful. When the Indian dropped ,^ all the canoes put off to fome 2()6 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. feme diftance ; but as they did not go away, it was thought they might ftill meditate an attack. To fecure therefore a I'afe paflage for the boat, which it was necef- fury to fend on fliore, a round fhot was fired over their heads, which efTcdually anfwcredthe purpofe, and put tliem all to flight. When an account of what had hap- pened washronght aiiiore,our Indians were alarmed,and drawing all together, retreated in a body. After a (hort tifTiC, however, they returned, having heard a more particular account of the affair ; and intimated th^t they thought the man who had been killed deferved his fate. A little before funfet the Indians retired to cat their fupper, and we went with them to be fpedators of the rcpafl; it confifted of fifli of diflerent kinds, among which were lobfters, and fome birds, of a fpecies un- known to us : thefe were either roafted or baked ; to rcaft them, they fattened them upon a fmall flick, which was {luck up in the ground, inclining towards their fire ; and to bake them, they put them into a hole in the ground with hot flones, in the fame manner as the peo- ple of Otaheite. Among the natives that were afTembled upon this occafion, we faw a woman, who, after their manner, was mourning for the death of her relation ; fhe fat upon the ground near the refl, who, one only excepted, fcemed not at all to regard her : the tears conflandy trickled down her cheeks, and flie repeated in a low, but very mournful voice, words, which even Tupia did not at all underftand : at the end cf every fentence (he cut her arms, her fiice, or her breaft with a (hell that fhe he!d in her hand, fo that fhe was almoft vered with blood, and was indeed one of the moft afFefting fpec- tacles that can be conceived. The cuts, however, di'l not appear to be fo deep as are fometimes made upon fmiilar occalions, if we may judge by the fears which we faw upon the arms, thighs, breafls, and cheeks of many of them, which we were told were the remains of wounds which they had inflided upon themfelves as tcflimonies of their afFedion and forrow. The CAPTAIN COOK'» FIRST VOYAGE. 297 The next day, I went with two boats, accompanied by Mr Banks' and the other gentlemen, to examine a large river that empties itfelf into the head of the bay. We rowed about four or five miles up, and could have gone much farther if the weather nad been favour- able. It was here wider than at the mouth, and divided into many ftreams by fmall flat iflands, which are co- vered with mangroves, and overflowed at high-water. From thefe trees exudes a vifcous fubftance which very much refembles refm : we found it firft in fmall lumps upon the fea beach, and now faw it ftickin^qj to the trees, by which we knew whence it came. We landed on the eaft fide of the river, where we faw a tree upon which feveral fhags had built their nefts, and here, there- fore, we determined to dine ; twenty of the (hags were foon killed, and, being broiled upon the fpot, afforded uft an excellent meal. We then went upon the hills, from whence I thought I faw the head of the river. The fhore on each fide, as well as the iflands in the middle, were covered with mangroves ; and the fand-banks a- bounded in cockles and clams : in many places there were rock oyfters, and every where plenty of wild fowl, f)rincipally fhags, ducks, curlieus, and the fea-pie, that las been defcribed before. We alfo faw lifh in the river, but of what kind we could not difcover : the country, on the eaft fide of this river, is for the moft part barren, and deftitute of wood ; but on the weft it has a better afpe£t, and in fome places is adorned with trees, but has in no part the appearance of cultivation. In the en- trance of the river, and, for two or three miles up, there is good anchoring in four and five fathom water, and places very convenient for laying a vcffel on fhorc, where the tide rifes and falls feven feet at the full and change of the moon. We could not determine, whe- ther any confiderable ftream of frelli water came into this river out of the country j but we faw a number of fmall rivulets iflbe from the adjacent hills. Near the mouth of this river, on the eaft fide, we found a little Indian village, confifting of fmall temporary (heds. Vol. I.— N'' 8. P p where 298 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. where we landed, and were received by the people with the utmoft kindnefs and hofpitality : they treated us with a flat (hell-firti of a moft delicious tafte, fomewhat like a cockle, which we eat hot from the coals. Near this place is a high point or peninfula, projedling into the river, and upon it are the remains of a fort, wliich they call Eppab or Heppah, The beft engineer in Eu- rope could not have chofen a lituation better adapted to enable a fmali number to defend themfelves againfl: a greater. The fteepnefs of the cliffs renders it wholly inaccefTible from the water which inclofes it on three iides ; and, to the land, it is fortified by a ditch, and a bank raifed on the infide : from the top of the bank to the bottom of "the ditch, is two and twenty feet ; the ditch on the outfide is fourteen feet deep, and its breadth is in proportion. The whole feemed to have been ex- ecute(^ with great judgment ; and there had been a row of pickets or pallifadoes, both on the top of the bank and along the brink of the ditch on the outfide ; thcfe on the outfide had been driven very deep into the ground, and were inclined towards the ditch, fo as to projed. over it ; but of thefe the thickeft pofts only were left, and upon them there were evident marks of fire, fo that the place had probably been taken and de- flroyed by an enemy. If any occafion fhould make it neceflary for a Ihip to winter here, or ftay any time, tents might be built in this place, which is fufficiently fpacious, vv'ith great convenience, and might eafily be made impregnable to the whole country. On the I ith, there was fo much wind and rain that no canoe came off; but the long-boat was fcnt to fetch oyfters from one of the beds which had been difcovercd the day before : the boat foon returned, deeply laden, and the oyfters, which were as good as ever came from Colchefter, and about the fame fize, were laid down under the booms, and the (hip's company did - nothing but eat them from the time they came on board till night, when, as may reafonably be fuppofed, great part of them were expended ; this, however , gav^ us no CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 299 no concern, as we knew that not the hoat only, but the (hip might have been loaded, almoft in one tide, as the beds are dry at half ebb. In the morning of Sunday the 1 2th, two canoes came off full of people whom we had never feen before, but who appeared to have heard of us by the caurion which theyufed in approaching us. As we invited them to come alongfide with all the tokens of friendfhip that we could fliew, they ventured up, and two of them came on board; the reft traded very fairly for whnt they had : a fmalt canoe alfo came from the other lide of the bay, and fold us fome very large fi(h, which they gave us to under- ftand they would have brought yetterday, having caught them the day before, but that the wind was -fo high they could not venture to fea. After breakfaft, I went with the pinnace and yawl, accomDanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, over to the north lidc of the bay, to take a view of the country, and two fortified villages which we had dlfcovered at a diftance. We landed neareft the fmalleft of them, the fituation of which was the moft beautifully romantic that can be ima- gined ; it was built upon a fmall rock, detached from the main, and furrounded at high water. The whole body of this rock was perforated by an hollow or arch, which pof- fefied much the largeft part of it ; the top of the arch was above fixty feet perpendicular abovf the fea, which at high water flowed through the bottom of it : the whole fummit of the rock above the arch was fenced round after their manner ; but the area was not large enough to contain more than five or fix houfes : it was acceliible only by one very narrow and fteep path, by which the inhabitants, at our approach, came down,.and invited us into the place ; but we refufed, intending to vifit a much more confiderable fort of the fame kind at about a mile's diftance. We made fome prefents how- ever to the women, and in the mean time we faw the inhabitants of the town which we were going to, com- ing towards us in a body, men, women, and children, Pp 2 . to ■F 300 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. rsr &■■ to the number of one hundred : when they came near enough to be heard, they waved their hands and called nut Horomai ; after which they fat down among the bufhes near the beach : thefe ceremonies we were told were certain figns of their friendly difpofition. We ad- vanced to the place where they were fitting, and when we came up, made them a few prefents, and afked leave to vifit their Heppah ; they confented with joy on their countenances, and immediately led the way. It is cal- led Wharetouwa, and is fituated upon a high pro- montory or point, which projects into the fea, on the north nde, and near the head of the bay : two fides of It are waflied by the fea, and thefe are altogether inac- cefiible ; two other fides are to the land : up one of them, which is very fteep, lies the avenue from the beach ; the other is flat and open to the country upon the hill, which is a narrow rid^e : the whole is inclofed by a palUfade about ten feet high, confiding of ftrong pales bound together with withes, The weak fide next the land is alfo defended by a double ditch, the inner- moil of which has a bank and an additional palliiade ; the inner pallifades are upon the bank next the town, but at fuch a diftance from the top of the bank as to leave room for men to walk and ufe their arms, between them and the inner ditch : the oucermoft pallifades are; between the two ditches, and driven obliquely into the ground, fo that their upper ends incline over the inner ditch I the depth of this ditch, from the bottom to the top or crown of the bank, is four and twenty feet. Clofe within the innermoft pallifade is a ilage^ twenty feet high, forty feet long, and fix broad ; it is fuppurted by ftrong pofts, and is intended as a ftation for thofe who defend the plaqe, from which they may annoy the af- failants by darts and flones, heaps 01 which lay ready for ufe. Another ftage of the fame kind commands the fteep avenue from the beach, and ftands alfo within the pallifade ; on this fide of the hill there are lome little o\^tworks md huts, wK intended as advanced pofiS) but .^ & ■ iV .J. •i3S^<:r. •I ■•;' •*..■ ■-■%M V ■ »• '■» •«> • i- "rti.*^? <.*. .•t« '•'*- «»>1 :.4r- n.. CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAG t 301 ;ls the habitations of people who for want of room could not be accommodated within the works, but who were, notwithftanding, defirous of placing thenifelves under their protedion. The pallifades, as has been ob- ierved already, tun round the whole brow of the hill, as weil to wards the Tea as towards the land ; but tbM!! ground within having originallv been a mount, thef have re- duced it not to oneTevcl, tut to feveral, rifmgin ilages one above the other, like an amphitheatre, each of which is inclof^d within its feparate pallifade ; they communicate with ^ach other by narrow lanes, which might eafily be (topped up, fo that if an enemy fhould force the outward pallifade, he would have otliersto carry before the place could be wholly reduced, fuppofmg thefc places to be c^ftinately defended one after the other. The only entrance is by a narrow paflage, about twelve feet long, communicating with the fteep afcent from the beach: it pafles under one of the hghting flages, and though we faw nothing like a door or gate- way, it may be eafily barricaded in a manner that will nSKe the forcing ij: a very dangerous and difficult un- dertaking. Upon the whole, this muft be confidcrcd as a place of great flrength, in which a fmall numbo* of refolute men may deiend themfelves againft all the force which a people with no other arms than thofc that are in ufe here could brinjg againfl it. It feemed to be well fiimillied for a fiege with every thing but water j we faw great quantities cJ fern root, which they eat as bread, and dried filh piled up in heaps ; but we could not perceive that they had any frefh water nearer than ,,|i brook, which runs clofe under the foot of the hill : whether they have any means of getting it from this place during a fiege, or whether they have any method offloring it within the work^ in gourds or other veilels, we could not learn ; fome refource they certainly have with refpeft to this article, an indifpeniable neceilary*of life, for otherwife the laying up dr)^ provifions c6uld j^nfwer no purpofe^ Upou our .expreiBng a defire to w- -'$<■■ *PH ri CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. : : fee their method of attack and defence, one of the young men mounted a fighting ftage, which they call Forava^ and another went into the ditch : both he that was to defend the place and he that was to aflault it, fung the war-fong, and danced with the fame frightful gcfticulations that we had feen ufed in more ferious cir- cumftances, to work themfelves up into a degree of that mechanical fury, which, among all uncivilized nations, is the neceffary prelude to a battle ; for difpaffionate courage, a ftrength of mind that can furmount the fenfe of danger, without a flow of animal fpirits by which it is extinguifhcd, feems to be the prerogative of thofe who have projeds of more lading importance, and a keener fenle of honour and difgrace, than can be form- ed or felt by men who have few pains or pleafures befides thofe of mere animal life, and fcarccly any pur- pofe but to provide for the day that is pafling over them, to obtain plunder, or revenge an infult: they will march againft each other, indeed, in cool blood, though they find it neceffary to work themfelves into paflion before they engage ; as amotig us there have been rhany lii- X fiances of people who have deliberately made them- felves di:unk, that they might execute a projci^ which they formed when they were fober, but which, while they continued fo, they did not dare to undertake. , ' On the fide of the hill, near this inclofure, we faw a- bout half an acre planted with gourds and fweet pota- toes, which was the only cultivation in the bay : un- der the foot of the point upon which this fortincation flands, are two rocks, one juft broken off from the main, and the other not perfectly detached from it : they are both fmall, and feem more proper for the habi- tations of birds than men ; yet there are houfes and places of defence upon each of them. And we faw m^ny other works of the fame kind upon fmall iflands, rocks, and ridges of hills, on different parts of thecoaft, befides many fortified towns, which appeared to be muck fuperior to this* > . -. ^ ■ • - - The CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 303 The perpetual hoftility in which thefe poor fav.iges, who have made every village a fort, miift nccefikrily live, will account for there beinc^ fo little of their land in a ftate of cultivation ; and, as mifchiel^ very often reci- procally produce each other, it may perhaps appear, that there being fo little land in a ftaie of cultivation, will account for their living in perpetual hoftility. But it is very ftrange, that the lame invention and diligence which have been ufQi\ in the conftiudion of places fo admirably adapted to defence, almoit without tool§, Ihould not, when urged by the fame necefTity, have fur- nilhed them with a fingle miffile v/eapon except the . lance, which is thrown by hand : they have no con- trivance like a bow to difcharge a dart, nor any thing like a fling to aflift them in throwing a ftone ; wliich is the more furprifmg, as the invention of flitigs, and bows and arrows, is much more obvious than of the works which thefe people conftruft, and both thefe weapons are found among much ruder nations, and in almoft every other part of the world. Bclides the long lance and Patoo-Patoo, which have been mentioned al- ready, they have a ftafF about five feet long, fometim^ pointed, like a Serjeant's halberd, fometimes only taper- mg to a point at one end, and having the other end broad, and fhaped fomewhat like the blade of an oar. They have alfo another weapon, about a foot fliorter than thefe, pointed at one end, and at the other (haped like an axe. The points of their long lances arc barbed, and they handle them with fuch flrength and agility, that we can match them with no weapon but a loaded mufquet. After taking a flight view of the country, and load- ing both the boats with celery, which we found i. great plenty near the beach, we returned from our excurlion, and about five o'clock in the evening got on board the fliip. ^ ' On the 1 5th, I failed out of the bay, and at the fame time had feveral canoes on board, in one of which was^ our friend Toiava, who faid, that as loon as we were gone :MMi^' 304 CAPTAIN COOK'4 FIRST VOYAGE. J Kone he mud repair to his Heppah or fort, becaufe the friends of the man who had been ihot by Mr Gore on the 9th, had threatened to revenge his death upon him, vrhom they had reproached as being our friend. QfT the north point of the bay, I faw a great number of iflands, 01 various extent, which lay fcattcred to the north-wed, in a diredion parallel with the main as far 1 could fee. I fteeied nortn-eaft for the north-eafter- moft of thefe iflands ; but the wind coming to the north- wed, I was obliged to dand out to fea. To the bay which we had how left I gave the name of Mercury Bay, on account of the obfervation which we had made there of the tranfit of that planet over the fun. It lies in latitude ^6 d. 47 m. S. and in the longitude of 1 84 d. 4 m. W. there are feveral iflands lying both to the fouthward and northward of it, and a fmalT ifland or rock in the middle of the entrance: with- in this ifland the depth of water no where exceeds nine fathom : the bed anchoring is in a fandy bay, which lies jud within the fouth head, in five and four fathom, bringing a high tower or rock, which lies without the head, in one with the head, or jud fliut in behind it. This place is very convenient both for wooding and watenng, and in the river there is an immenfe quantity of oyders and other fhell-fifli : I have for this reafon given it the name of Oyster River. But for a fliin that wants to day here any time, the bed and fafeli place is in the river at the head of the bay ; which, from the number of mangrove trees about it, 1 have called Mangrove Rivek. To fail into this river, the fouth fhore mud be kept all the way on board. The country, on the ead fide of tlie river and bay, is very barren, its only produce being fern, and a few oiher plants that will grow in a poor foil. The land on the north-wed fide is covered with wood, and the foil being much more fertile,would doubtlcfs produce all the neceflfaries of life with proper cultivation : it is not, however, fo fertile as the lands that we have feen to the fouthward ; nor do the inhabitants, though numerous, make fo good ai\ appear- CAPTAlN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 30^- appearance : they have no plantations ; their canoes are mean, and without ornament ; they flcep in the open air ; and fay, that Tefatu, whofe fovereignty they do not acknowledge, if he was to come among them, would kill them. This favoured our opinion of their be- ing outlaws ; yet they told us, that they had Heppaha or llrong holds, to which they retired in time of immi- nent danger. We found, thrown upon the (hore, in feveral parts of this bay, great Quantities of iron-fand, which is brought down by every litde rivulet of frefli water that finds its way from the country ; which is a demonftra- tion that there is ore of that metal not far inland : yet neither the inhabitants of this place, of any other part of the coaft that we have fcen, know the ufe of iron, or fet the leaft value upon it ; all of them preferring the moft worthlefs and ufclcfstriiic, not only to anail,butto any tool of that metal. Before we left the bay, we cut upon one of the trees near the watering-place the Ihip's name, and that of the Commander, with the date of the year and month when we were there ; and, after difplaying the Englifli colours, 1 took a formal poflfeflion of it in the name of his Britannic Majefty King George the Third. Vol. I— No a- Qs The imti*^ :^o5 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. T/je katige from Mercury Bay to the Bay of JJIands : An Expedition up the River Thames : Some Account of the Indians who inhabit its Banks ^ and the fific Timber that • groins there : Several Interviews with the Natives on thfferent Parts of the Coaji, and a Skirmijh with them I ttpon an IJland, ' '•■ w\ » I Continued plying to windward two days to get un* tier the landyand on the 1 8th, about feven in the morn- ing, we were abreaft of a very confpicuous promctnto- ry, being then in latitude 36 d. 26 m. and in the direc- tion of N. 48 W. from the north head of Mercury Bay or Point Mercury, which was diitant nine leagues : un- ion this point ftood many people, who feemed to take little notice of us, but talked together with great eariieft* nefs. In about half an hour, fevei al canoes put ofFfrom different places, and en me towards the (hip ; upon which the people on the point alfo launched a canoe, and about twenty of them came in her up with the others. When two of thefe canoes, in which there might be about fixty men, came near enough to make themfelvcs heard, they fuiig their war-fong ; but i'eeing that wc took little liotice of it, they threw a few ftones at us, and then rowed ^S tov 'ards the liore. We hoped that we had now done with them, hut in a (hort time ' they returned as if with a fixed refoiution to provoke us into a battle, animating themfelves by their fong as they had done before. Tupia, without any diredtions from lis, went to the poop, and began to expoAulate : he tok! them, that w^e had weapons which would deftrov them in a moment ; and that, if they ventured f o attact us, we fhould be obl'ged to ufe them. Upon this, they Hourifhed their weapons, and cried out, in their lan- guaije, CAPTAIN COOK'i FIRST VOYAGE. 307 piiage, ** Come on fhore, and we will kill you all :" Well, faid Tupia, but why ihould you moleft us while we are at fea ? as we do not wifli to fight, we (hall not accept your challenge to come on fliore; and here therq is no pretence for a quarrel, the fea beiiic no more your property than the flap. This eloquence of Tupia, iliough it greatly furprifed us, having given him no hints for the arguments he ufed, had no effect upori our enemies, who very foon renewed their battery: a luufquet was then firea through one of their boats, and this was an argument of fufRcient weight, for they im- mediately fell aftern and left us. From the point, of which we were now ahreafl, the land trends W. f S. near a league, and then S. S. E. as far as we could fee ; and, behdes the iflands that lay without us, we could fee land round bytheS.W. as far as the N. W. but whether this was the main or iflands, we could not then determine : the fear of lofing the main, however, made me refolve fo follow its di- rediori. With this view, I hauled round the pi)int and lleered to the fouthward, but there being light airs all round the compafs, we made but little progrefs. About one o clock, a breeze fprung up at eaft,v hicli afterwards came N. E. and we fteered fUong the fliore S. by E. and S. S. E, having from twenty-hve to eigii-. t:cn fathom. At ahont half an hour after feven in the evening, having run feven or eight leagues fince noon, I an- chored in twenty-three fathom, not chufing to run any farther in the dark, as I had now land on both fides, forming the entrance of a ftreight, bay, or river, laying S, by K. for on that point we could fee no land. At day-break, on the i oth, the wind being ftill fa- vourable, we weighed and flood with an eafy fail up the inlet, keeping neareft to the eaft fide. In a (hort time, two large canoes came off to us from the fhore ; the people on board faid, that they knew Toiava very well, and called Tupia by his name. I invitt d Ibme of them on board ; and as they knew they hadnothi,ng Q^ 2 to ^o8 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. to fear from us, while they behaved honeftly and peaces ;\bly,they immediately complied : I made each of them fome prelents, and difmiued them much gratihed. Other canoes afterwards came up to us from a different fide of the bay ; and the people on board of thefe alio mentioned the name of Toiava, and Tent a young man into the fliip, who told us he was his grandfon, and he alfo was dilrnifTed with a prefent. After having run about five leagues from the place where we had anchored the night before, our depth of water gradually decreafed to fix fathom ; and not chu- iingto gointo lefs, as it was tide of flood, and the wind blew right up the inlet, I came to an anchor about the middle of ihe channel, which is near eleven miles over ; srfter which I fent two boats out to found, one oq one fide, and the other on the other. The boats not having found above three feet aicre water than we were now in, I determined to ^o no far- ther with the fhip, but to examine the head of the bay :n the b6ats ; for, as it appeared to run a good way in- land, I thought this a favourable opportunity to examine the interior part of the country, and its porduce. At day-break, therelore, 1 fet out in the pinnace and long-boat, accompanied by IVIr Banks, Dr Solander, and Tupia ; and we found the inlet end in a river, a- bout nine miles above the fhip : into this river we en- tered with the firft of the flood, and within three miles found the water perfectly frefh. Before we had pro- ceeded more than one third of that diftance, we found an Indian town, which was built upon a fmall bank of dry fand, but intirely furroundLd by a deep mud,which pofTibly the inhabitants might confider as a defence. Thefe people, as foon as they fav/ us, thronged to the banks, and invited us oft fliore. We acceptedthe invi- tation, and made them a vifit notwithftandmg the mud. They received us with open arms, having heard of U9 from our good old friend Toiara ; but our fl:ay could not be long, as we had other objects of curiofity in view. \Ve proceeded up the river till i^ear nopti, when we were '*■«. \j-'^ GE. Y and peace:, ach of them h gratified, 1 a diiFerent >f thefe alfo pung man on, and he n the place ir depth of fl not chu- i the wind r about the iiiles over ; ne on one feet ^nore go no far- of the bay d way in- > examine ice. mace and Soknder, river, a- r we en- ree miles lad pro- "ft found bank of djwhich defence. d to the he invi- ic mud. d of 119 ■ .''.si 1; CAPTAIN COOK'. FIRST VOYAGE, were fourteen miles within if^ ^n^- ^°* ■ng the face of the cotrntry to /o" dm,.'' '"l' "f "• «"•!- without any alteratJot, in the courfl" f ,h"'a '^ "'« '""'"f. we had no hope of tracing, T".r''''='^'«a"', which 'he weft fide, I take ' v.^^" ''/ ,t"T^- "" '^"''^'' -^ every where adorned its hjnk, Tl °^'^' "■'^" '^'"ch tJiat vve had feen before thoM,.!, 2 '' ""''^ ^''^ ^ kind ."Poverty Bay .and fh SfB?-'' "n 'i'"^"'"'^'''"'' walked an hundred yan nto th. ^* ^Y^"'" "= ''^d one of them which vvas lin?., r '*°."''' '^e met with g-rr. at the height of fix Ch " I'rh''^''" '"'^'^^ '" ' '^ a quadrant with me I m«f„f ?^ L*"? ground: havini- '" 'he firft branch, and7ound it In h'^-'^'/'-""' ^^er^o'? 't was as ftrait as an arrovv a„d Ln ''^T'••fy-"i"e feet: proportion to its heigh° fo thaPr''- '^^'^"'.^'=^>' ''"le in three hundred and fiffy-fixfeet of L'".''?'! "'^^-^ ^«re c luhve of the branches. As wJ5 '"^ L""''^'' " ". «- other, that were ftill Ja,^eV' Zt^T'^' ''^ ^'^^ ^any ana the wood proved hfa^J and (XM°'^" « Voungooe, but fuch as woaldmakelhefil0''t"°'.^''°^'"^ft»* Our carpenter, who was with ?5/'H'"i '" ">« «-orld. refemblcd that of the SdW ' , •'! !''"' ""e timber '"PPmg; and poFiblvfomf f * u'""'' '* "Sbtened by found to lighten ihpfJ '°T J"'^^ method mieht hi marts as no^coun ryt^ So^ '*°"''' ">-« ft^fucl! :^ -^now„ to us.1^!ii:%SofJJcmuj^ Greel'icXalld'jLVSofV' \'°'i "^ *e Thames at ffed q^itc fo deep, but hafw^.'' "' '^'°"S' « '« "otin- "nore than* njidd e T. T*'? ^"°"gb for vefTels of ''>« nothing crdtfc'i'^^'i^b^^ . About three o'docfc ^T^ tj":"nn'ng afliore. J«ra with the firfl HeTJ'""'^"^ in order w re, J«AME3, it having fomereferhl ""'"*'' »''« "^e"" the ff that name. In our r^h,r« .^"?".'=^ ^° "»' own river H<^ where we hdb^caT^rJ'f '"''*'''"«'''' °f 'he vT ■ alhore, feemg us take another 3IO CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. f channel, came off ro us in their canoes, and trafEcked with us in the mo(t friendly manner, till they had dif- pofcd of the few trifles they had. The tide of ebh juft carried us out of the narrow part of the river, into the channel that run up from the fea, before it was dark ; and we pulled hard to reach the flup, but meeting the flood, and a ftrong breeze at N. N. W. with (bowers of rain, wc were obliged to defill ; and about midnight, we run under the land, and came to a grappling, where we took fuch reft as our (ituation would admit. At break of day, we fet forward again, and it was pad feven o'clock be- fore we reached the (hip. We were all extremely tired, but tho'?<^ht ourlelves happy to be on board ; for before nine it h : ^ hard that the boat could not have rowed ahead, and id therefore either have gone a(hore, or taken fhelter under it. About three o'clock, having the tide of ebb, we took up our anchor, made fail, and plied down the river till eight in the evening, when we came to an anchor again : early in the morning we made fail with the tirfl: ebb, and kept plying till the flood obliged us once more to come to an anchor. As vfe had now only a Hght breeze, I went in the pinnace, accompanied by Dr Solander, to the weftem fhore ; but I faw nothing worthy of notice. When I left the fliip, many canoes were about it^ Mr Banks therefore chofc to ftay on board, and traflBc with the natives : they bartered with their clothes and arms, chiefly for paper, and behaved with great friendlhip and honelty. But while fome of them were below with Mr Banks, a young man who was upon the deck flole a half minute glafs which was in the binacle; and wasdete^ed juft as he was carrying it off^. Mr Hicks, who was commanding oflficer on board, took it into his head to punifli him, by giving him twelve lafhcs with a cit- o'nine-tails ; and accordingly ordered him to be taken to the gang- way, and tied up to the (hrouds. When the other Indians who were on board faw him fcized, they attempted to refcue him ; and being refifted, called for tljeir arms, which were handed up from the canoes, and CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 311 and the people of one of them attempted to come up the {hip*s fide. The tumult was heard by Mr Banks, who. with Tupia, came haftily upon the deck to fee what had happened. The Indians immediately ran to Tupia, who, finding Mr Hicks inexorable, could only aOure tb°m, that nothing was intended a^ainft the life of their x:oinpanion ; but that it was neceflary he ihould fiifTer fome puniftiment for his offence, which being explained to them, they feemed to be fatisfied. The puniihment was then inflicted, and as foon as the criminal was un- bound, an old man among the fpe^tators, who was ibp- pofed to be h*.s father, gave liim a hearty beating, r^d lent him down into his canoe. All the canoes then dropped , a-ftern, and the people faid that they were afraid to come any more near the fhip : after much per- fualion, however, they ventured back again, but their cheerful confidence was at an end, and their ftay was {hon ; they promifed indeed, at their departure, to re- turn with lome fi(h, but we faw no more of them. On the 23d, the wind being contrary, we kept plying down the river, and at feven in the evening, got with- out the N. W, point of the ifiands lying on the well fide of if. The weather being bad, night coming on, and having land on every lide of up, I thought it mott advis- able to tack, and ftretch in under the point, where wc anchored in nineteen fathom. At five in the morning, of the 24th, we wei^ied, and made fail to the N. W. under our courfes and double reefed top-fails, the wind being at S. W. by W. and W. S. \V. a ftrong gale and fqually. As the gale would not permit us to come near the land, we had but a flight and diftaot view of it from the time when we got under fail till noon, during a rua ,of twelve leagues, but we never once loft fight of it. At this time, our latitude, by obfervation, was 36 d. 15 m. 20 f. wc were not above two miles from a point of land on the main, and three leagues and a half from a very high ifland, which bore N. E. by E. in this fiiuation *we had twenty-fix fathom water : the fartheft point on the main that wc could fee bore N. W. but \ve could ' . per* 5'2 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. h i perceive feveral fmall iflands lying to the north of that diredion. Tlie point of land of which we were now abreaft, and which I called Point Rodney, is the N. W. ex- tremity of the river Thames ; for under that name I comprehended the deep bay which terminates in the fr«{h water ftreara, and the N. E. extremity is the pro^ mnntory which we pafTed when we entered it, and which 1 calted Cape Colville, in honour of the Rirfit Honourable Lord Colville. Cape Colville lies in latitude 36 d. 26 m. longitude iQ/j. d. 27 m. it rifes dircdtly from the fea to a confi- derable height, and is remarkable for a lofty rock,which ftands to the pitch of the point, and may be diftin^uifti- ed at a very great diftance. From the fouth pomt of this Cape the river runs in a dire£t line S. by E. and is no where lefs than three leagues broad for tlie diftance of fourteen leagues above the Cape, and there it is con- traded to a narrow ftream, but continues the fame courfe through a low flat country, or broad valley , which lies parallel with the fea coaft, and the end of which Wc could not fee. On the eafl: fide of the broad part of this river the land is tolerably high and hilly ; on the weft fide it is rather low, but the whole is covered with verdure and wood, and has the appearance of great fer- tility, though there were but sLTtew^fmall fpots which had been cultivated. At the entrance of the narrow part of the river the land is covered with mangroves and other fhrubs : but farther, there are immenfe woods of perhaps the fineft timber in the world, of which fome account has already been given: in feveral places the wood extends to the very edge of the water, and where it is at a little diftance, the intermediate fpace is marfhy, like fome parts of the banks of the Thames in England : it ^s probable that the river contains plenty of fifh, for we faw poles ftuck up in many places to fet nets for catching them, biit of what kinds 1 do not knaw. The l^reateft depth of water that we found in thia river was fix and twenty fathom, which gradually decreafed to one CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 3»3 one fathom and an half: in the mouth of the frefti wa- ter dream it is from four to three fathom, but there are large flats and fand banks lying before it. A fhip of moderate draught may, notwithftanding, go a long way up this river with a flowing tide, for it rifes per- pendicularly near ten feet, and at the full and change of the moon, it isihigh water about nine o'clock. Six leagues within Cape Colville, under the eaftern fliore are leveral fmall iflands, which, together with the main, feem to form good harbours ; and oppolite to thefe iflands, under the weftern fhore, lie other iflands, by which it is alfo probable that good harbours may be formed : but if there are no harbours about this river, there is good anchoring in every part of it where the depth of water is fufficient, for it is defended from the fea by a chain of iflands of different extent, which lie crofs the mouth of it, and which I have, for that reafon^ called Barrier Islands; they fl:retch N. W. and S. E. ten leagues. The fouth end of the chain lies N. E. be- tween two and three leagues from Cape Colville ; and' the north end lies N. E. four leagues and an half from Point Rodney. Point Rodney lies W. N. W. nine leagues from Cape Colville, in latitude ^6 d. 15 m. S, londtude i84d. 93 m. W. / 1 he natives refidmg about this river do ^pt appear to be numerous, conlidering the great extent of the coun- try. But they are a ftrong, well-made, and adlive peo- ple, and all or them- paint their bodies with red oker and oil from head to foot, which we had not feen before. Their canoes were large and well built, and adorned with carving, in as good a tafte as any that we had ieen< upon the coafl. , y We continued to fland along the fhore till nig}£|t» with the main land on one lide, and iflands on the- other, and then anchored in a bay, with fourteen fa- thom and a fandy bottom. We had no fooner come to an anchor, than we tried our lines, and in a Ihortiime caught near one hundreafifh, which the people called Sea-bream ; they weighed from fix to eight pounds Vol.l.^N«8. Rr a-piece, 3M CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. m a-piece, and confequently woukl fupply the whole fhip's company with food for two days. From the fuc- eels of our lines here, we called the place Bream Bay: the two points that form it lie north and fouth, live kagiies from each other ; it is every where of a good breadth, and between three and four leagues deep : at the bottom of it there appears to be a river of frefh wa- iter. The north head of the bay, tailed Bream He a o, is high land, and remarkable for feveral pointed rocks, which ftand in a range upon the top of it : it may alfo be known by fome fitiall iflands which lie before it call- ed the Hen and Chickens, one of which is high, and terminates in two peaks. It lies in latitude 45 d. ^6 m. S. and at the diftance of feventeen leagues and ^n. half from Cape Colville, in the diredlion of N. 41 W. The land between Point Rodney and Bream Head, aril extent of ten leagues, is low, and wooded in tufts, with white fand banks between the fea and the firm land. We faw no inhabitants, but many fires in the night ; and where there are fires, there are always people. At day-break, on the 25th, we left the bay, and (leer- ed along the ftiore to the northward : we found the va- rfaitibn of the conrpafs to be 12 d. 42 m. E. At noon our latitude was 30 d. 38 m. S. Bream Head bore fouth, diftant ten miles ; and we faw fome fmall iflands, to which Igave the name of Poor Knights, at N. E. by Ni diftant three leagues ; the northermofl iand in light borfeN. N. \V, we were in this place at the diftance of two miles from the fhore, and had tw^enty-iix fathom water. The country appeared low, but well covered with w'Ood : we faw fome ftraggling houfes, three or four fortififed towns, and near them a large quantity of culti- vated land. In the cveniitg, fome large canoes came off to us, with about two hundred men: fome of them came on board, and laid ^at thty had heard ^of us. To two of' . • . 4liem, CAPTAIN COOlC's FIRST VOYAGE. 3»l them, who appeared to be Chiefs, I gave prefents ; but when thele were gone out of the Ihip, the others became execcdingly troubleforae. Some of thofe in the canoes began to trade, and, according to their cuftom, to cheat, by refilling to deliver what had been bought, after they had received the price : among thcfe was one who had received an old pair of black breeches, which, upon a few fmall fliot being fired at him» he threw in the Tea. All the boats foon after paddled o5' to fome diftance, and when they thought they were out of reach, they began to defy us, !)y iinging their fong and brandifhing their weapons. We thought it advifablc to intimidate them, as well for their fakes as our own, and therefore fired firft fome fmall arms, and then round ihot over their heads ; the laft put them in a terrible fright, though they received no damage, except by over-heating thcmlelves in paddling away, which tkey did with ?.itoni(hing expedition. In the night we had variable light airs ; but towards the morning a breeze fprung up at S. and afterwards at S. E. with which we proceeded flowly to the norths ward, along the fiiore. IJetween lix and feven o'clock two canoes came off, and told us that they had heard of yefterday's adven- ture, notwithftanding which the people caime on board, and traded very quietly and honefUy for whatever they had : foon after two canoes came oflrf»*om a more diftant part of the fhore ; thefe were of a much larger fize, and full of people : when they came near, they called off the other canoes which were along-fide of the fhipi, and, after a (hort conference, they all came up together. The ftrangers appeared to be perfons of a fuperior rank ; their canoes were well carved with many orna- ments, and they had with them a great variety of wcajp pons : they haa Patoo^patoos Uoth of ftone and whale-p bone, upon which they appeared to fet a great value, f they had alfo ribs of whale, of which we had before feen imitations in. wood, carved and adorned with tufts pf dog's hair. Their complexions were browner thiui 3t6 CAPTAIN COOK'S TIRST VOYAGE. thofe of the people wc had feen to the foiithwanl, and their bodies and faces were more marked with the black ftains which they call Amoco : they had a broad fpiral on each buttock ; and the thighs of many of them were almoft Intirely black, fome narrow lines only being kft untouched, fo that at firft fight they appeared to wear ftripcd breeches. With relpedt to the Amoco, every different tribe fcemed to have a different cuftom, for all the men, in fome canoes, feemed to be almoft covered with it, and thofe in others had fcarcely a ftain, except on the lips, which were black in all or them without a fmgle exception. TTiefe gendemen, for a long time, refufed to part with any of their weapons, whatever •was (Offered for them ; at laft, however, onq of them produced a piete of talc, wrought into the (hape of an ax, and ag.ccd to fell it for a piece of cloth : the cloth •was handed over the fhip's fide, but his honour imme-» diately put off his canoe with the ax. We had recourfe to our ufual expedient, and fired a mufket ball over the canoe, upon which it put back to the (hip, and the piece of cloth was returned ; all the boats then went afhore, without offering any further intercourfe. At noon, the main land extended from S. by E. to N. W. by W. a remarkable point of land bearing W. diftant four or five miles ; at three we pafffed it, and I gave it the name of Cape Bret, in nonour of Sir Piercy. The land of this 'Gape is confiderably higher than any part of the adjacent coaft : at the point of it, is a high round hillock, and N. E. by N. at the diftance of about a mile, is a fmall high ifland or rock, which, like feyeral that have already been defcribed, was per- forated quite through, fo as to appear like the arch of a bridge. This Cape, or at leaft fome part of it, is by the natives called Motugogogo, and it lies in latitude 35 d, lo m. 30 f S. longitude 185 d. 25 m, W. On the v> eft fide of it is z large and pretty deep bay, lying in S. W. by W. in which there appeared to be feveral fmall iflands : the point forms the N. W. entrance, lies W. i N. at the diltanc,^ of three or four leagues^ from CAPTAIN cook; FlRst VOYAGE ' Cape Bret, and I diftinsuifhed it hv ft, o I'ccocKK. On the weft fide of -K? "'"" "^ ^°'^T ral villages, both upon iflan Is and th' '''•''" '"^^ ''^^e- vcry large eanoes came off n 1 '^f,,™^'"' «"°"^ rfthe midli;*^« for revenge, to an expedient whi^I?"' ^^'^ "'^•^O"'*. crous and ibvere : hegonfiS.'^-^' equally '"di- man who had cheated him wt flof"^ !!"' ^^''^n Ae fide in his canoe, he heaved th. ia "•"J'^'" ""e ftip', ^•m. that fc hook caught him fc th h'^f^/" 2°°^ ^n puled the line, and tKcm^ hL}^ ^'\'^^'<^^ > he then |£e m the fliank. and KaS'Sefejl iH^ «nfee*K^ °f eSe'r* "^""^h we did not I harfalongfide and o„ M thi 3^'1°^ "'<= '^"'"ft. we five hunlred of the nSI ^ht^^''"'"' ^""■•^nd r "tSS: ^^T/^ -llfnCa.'^ ' P-^'"- this "}am at th? diffance of "wo^hh'! ^'^ "'"'^ ""^'er the KapeBret,inthedireaionrfNr W i,''^??;y '"''<=« from |P'«e, having but litTwi"/'-"^-,''^ W. | W.. Atthis Jdunng whicg time feveraT^ * "^^ ^^ ^'^"t two houre I °'ne (Hh,which™ Vcald r""°,f *^''""= °ff. ""d fold S Pfeave the fame nam? to ^ "n ' 'S^' *"°'- 'hat reafon fc very infolenr^hquend V^r*^'- •'^''^'''^ p4"c r"'"^^''-'-^''^"^'Si:;t^SKemr canoes .«;-. hi!!' 318 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. canoes came up, they began to pelt us with ftones. Some Imall ihot were iired, and hit one of them while he had a ftonc in his hand, in the very adlion of throw- ing it into the Ihip : they did not, however, defift, till ibme others had been wounded, and then they went away, and we ftood off to fea. The wind being dire<5tly againft us, we kept plying to windward till the 29th, when we had ratfcer loll than gained ground ; I therefore bore up for a bay which lies to the we (I ward of Ca^)e Bret ; at this time it was about two leagues to leeward of us ; and at al)Out eleven o'clock we anchored under the i'outh well fide of one of the many iflands which line it on the fouth eaft, in four fethom and a half water; we flioaled our water to this depth all at once, and if this had not happened I fhould not luvc come to an anchor To foon. 'I'he Matter was immediately fent out with two boats to found, and he foon difcovered that we had got upon a bank, which funs out from the north weft end of the ifland, and that on the outlide of it there was from eight to ter Sthom. In the mean time the natives, to the numt f near four hvmdred, crouded upon us in their canoes, uaJ Tome of them V ere admitted on board : to one, who feemed to be a chief, I gave a piece of broad cloth, and diftributr «d fome trifling prefents among the reft. I perceived that fome of thefe people had been about the (nip when ihe was off at fea, and th?t they knew the power of oui lire arms, for the very fight of a gun threw them into manifeft confulion : under this impreflion they traded very fairly ; but the people in one of the canoes took ^ the opportunity of our being at dinner to tow away our buoy: a muiket was fired over them without ^Sc^, wc then endeavoured to reach them with fome imall 1 fhot, but they were too far off; by this time they I had got the buoy into their canoe, and we were obligeal to fire a mufket at them with ball : tliis hit one of j them, 2ind they immediately threw the buoy over-J board : a round fhot was then fired over them, whichj ftruck the water and went aftipre. Two or three al CAPTAIN COOK-e FIRST VOYAGE the canoes immediatelv lin,l^,i ri • ' ^ '' Jbont the beach, as 2 Sed In f^I^'^-.-'^ho r„. Tupu called to them, aiul a?u, cd ,i "■'■''' "* '^'^ bail, were honeft ihey nimld\^ttf .IT ■^l''' ^"''"'^ "'cy fuahon many of them rrtVrned to fb"'''-^- " ""'-^ P«- hehaviour was fuch as left 1 1 n^ • ""P' ^"'1 their they intend«l to give ,„ nL f "."^ "■'=^'°n to fuipea tlwt After the Ihip was rl?.?^ ^f •^'' """"'''e- properly Tect-rc^l, F^nTn Zff /,'"" '?"<^P<^^ "-"ter, and manned and armed ar?nm^ • '^ P'""»ce and vawT , Solander, and landl'd unTelfl ^^, '^'L?^"'^' ""^ S . three quarters of a miS,nf '^'""^> ^V'<^h was about canoes which wer "abo 'fr 'n^-''^ ?>'^'^«') thatX I Hp>t. our leaving her wU^^ ^'P' ''^ "ot follow uf but we had no 4ne 'irnSt^fn'^h"^''' » &"«! %" foent parts of the ifland » n^ " "'^^ '^fouded to dif ."> a little cove, and in a few mT' ?" "'°'-^- We wt^ by two or thre^ hundred ^ITT'' "^""'^ Airrounded »nd the heads of th^ covHd o^"^'^™"""^ «°« ^^ tops of theh lis : thev uJrZ n ^^T* appearing on the ■n/o confufed andZlnL'" "n''"'^''' ^ut theyclmeS 'ufpefted they mean il^n^h """"^f/hat w^ forcelr tnmed thathoftili,ie"lhou1d n^,^"'-'""' ^« vveredeter- marched towards trem IdXn'r '"^ °"'P««. W« 9. ^ Si" a8d ■ #. 322 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. and friendly manner. In the evening we went afliorc upon the main, where the people received us very cor- dially ; but we found nothmg worthy of notice. * In this bay we were detained by contrary winds and calms feveral days, during which time our intercourfe with the natives was continued in the mod peaceable and friendly manner, they being frequently about the fhip, and we afhore, both upon the iflands and the mam. In one of our vifits to the continent, an old man fhewed us the inftrument they ufe in ftaining their bodies, which exadlly refembled thofe that were em- ployed for the fame purpofe at Otaheite. We faw alfo the man who was wounded in attempting to Ileal our buoy : the ball had pafFed through the flcihy part of his arm, and grazed his breaft ; but the wound, under the care of Nature, the bell furgeon, and a iimple diet, the bell nurfe, was in a very good flate^ and feemcd to give the patient neither pain nor apprehenfion. We faw alfo the brother of our old Chief, who had been wound- ed with fmall fhot in our fkirmifh :, they had ftruck his thigh obliquely, and though feveral of them were ftill in the flefh, the wound feemed to be attended with, neither danger nor pain. We found among their plantationsi the morus papyrifsray of which thefe people, as well as ihofe at Otaheite, make cloth : but here the plant feems to be rare, and we faw no pieces of the cloth large enougli for any ufe but to wear by way of ornament in their ears. Having one day landed in a very diftant part of the bay, the people immediately fled, except one old man, who accompanied us where-ever we went, and feemed much pleafed with the little prefents we made him. We came at lafl to a little fort, built upon a fmall rock, which, at high water, was furrounded by the fea, and accefliible only by a ladder : we perceived that he eyed us with a kind of reftlefs folicitude as we approached it, and upon our exprefling a defire to enter it, he told us that his wife was there : he faw that our curiofity was not diminiflied by this intelligence, and after fome he- * fitation, \ ' i: CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 523 fitation, he faid, if we would promife to offer no inde- cency he would accompany us : our promife was readily given, and he immediately led the way. The ladder conftfted of fteps faftened to a pole, but we found th&v afcent both dimcult and dangerous. When we entered we found three women, who, the moment they faw us, burft into tears of terror and furprize : fome kind words and a few prefents foon removed their apprehenfions, and put them into good humour. We examined the houie of our old friend, and, by his intereft, two others, wliich were all that the fortification contained, and hav- ing diftributed a few more prefents, we parted with mutual fatisfatlion. At four o'clock in the morning of the 5th of Decem- ber, we weighed, with a light breeze, but it being vari- able with frequent calms, we made little way. We * kept turning out of the bay till the afternoon, and about ten o'clock we were fuddenly becalmed, fo that the fhip would neither wear nor ftay, and the tide or cur- rent fetting ftrong, (he drove towards land fo faft, that before any meafures could be taken for her fecurity (lie 1^ as within a cable's length of the breakers : we had thirteen fathom water, but the Q;rou;id was 10 foul that we did not dare to drop our an iior ; the pinnace there- fore was immediately hoifted out to take the Chip 'n\ tow, and the men, fenfible of their linger, ex< rtcd themfelves to the utmoft, and a faint bretze Ipriniv^ing up off the land, we p<^rceived, with unfpeakable joy that (lie made head way, after having been fo n' ar the- Ihore tl:.?t Tupia, who was not fenfible of oai iiair's- breadth efcape, wa.s at thi§ very time converling with the people upon the beach, whole voices were diflinO 'y heard, notwithftanding the roar of the breakers. »Ve now thought all danger was over, but about an hour afterwards, juft as the man in the chains had cried " feventeen fathom," the fiiip ftmck. The (hogk threw us all into the utmoft confternation ; Mr Banks, who had undrefTed himfelf and was ftepping into bed, van haftily up to the deck, and the man in the chains 8 f 2 called 324 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 1 i I'i ij;; called out " five fathom;" by this time, the rock on which wc had ftruck being to windward, the (hip went off without having received the leaft damage, and the water very foon deepened to twenty fatliom. This rock lies half a mile W. N. \V. of the norther- moft or outermoft ifland on the fouth-eaft fide of the bay. We had light airs from the land, w'uh calms, till nine o'clock the next morning, when we got out of the bay, and a breeze fprir.ging up at N. N. W. we flood ©ut to fea. This bay, a^ I have before obferved, lies on the weft iide of Cape Bret, and I named it the Bay of Isi^ands, from the great number of iflands wich line its Ihores^ and fcH'm fev.eral harbours equally fafe and commodi- ous, where there is room and depth for any number of flilpping. That in which we lay is on the fouth-weft fide of the fouth-weftermoft ifland, called Matuaro, on the fouth^eaft fide of the bay. I have made no ac- curate furvey of this bay, being difcouraged by the time it woutd eoft me ; I thought alfo that it was fuf- ficient to be able to affirm that it afforded us good an- chorage, and refrefhment of every kind. It was not the feafon for roots, but we had plenty of fifh, moft of which, however, we purchaied of the natives, for we could catch very litde ourfelves either with net or line. When we fhewed the natives our feine, which is fuch as the King's fhips are generally furniflied wilh, they laughe '«-oream, muUet, i The inhabitants in this bay are fir m«, fhan m any other part of the rnr,J. 1?°*^^ numerous fore vifited ; it dicf not annP=.r? *''' *^'" ^'^ h«d be- .united under one head aPr^U^.^'f^*"' '^'r ^«« |fort,hcd, they feemed to it ve t3 • '" !S"'"'' ^^^^ I -It is high water in th°s ,?v "f'fc '? P^"*? amity, hhe moon, about eight o'c ock and rh! t"/ 't'^SC of K-om fix to eight fcer nJ^^f' j^ , 'v^ '"'« 'hen rife* from fuch obfefvLio, Tf STifj'r ^^cal^ tice: upon the fea-coaft thaT i. n '°. "'«''« "C the .^.e Southward; and I have relfon tn "^ ^"T ^'<^ h a current which comes WfT. n '"'' .*« Aere Wong the (hore to the S E or S S p ''^'^f"'' »nd fets pens to lie. "^^ *" "'^ ^- S- E. as the land hap- On ThurHay the yth of n . >t bor« S. s/e. X I X.?^?"'''^':^^" noon. Cap6 f tude by obferyii'on.i'**"; i^" '"''^''o''"^ ""rC hwadefeveraiobfermT^^i-fh/P «>• ?• icon after kult of which made ou Joh^ ' 1 ," '"d moon, the fhewmd being againftuVweWn,l/K- ^^\'^- W. h the afternoon, we floor) in S, ™*''^ hut Jittle way. inder theCavalJe; J.^^""^ " Aiore and fetched do?; V. by N. feveral can^ Tut jfff '^ft [^ ■"'!« ^^dt jght breeze fprinrinf un P,"^ ?»and followed w, but a I" the next mornine ten J!?! i ' . ^- ^"d N. W N in for the Zrrfrom lr\'^'''" ^ t»<=ked and kues diftant. ArnoonTh a "^^ '^^'<' about five hw. by S. and wa?a^ourfr"f'"°'* '^""^ in fighf i-e afternoon, vve had fr.enTK°"'"'^'S"^»''iftant. I„ f theevening eamelo X fouth''"'/° '^^ ^'^' ^Wch N t, by day-light brought u?J,t",l'°"^^"'"S '"» «" ["". leven Jcairues tn H.i "■'J"^«tty well n with ths this 326' CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. this bay, which I called Doubtless Bay, the entrance is formed by two points, which lie N. N. W. and E. S. E. and are fire miles diftant from each other. The wind not permitting' us to look in here, we fleered for the wcftermoft land in fight, which bore from us W. N. W. about three leagues, but before we got the length of it it fell calm. While we lay becalmed, feveral canoes came off to us but the people having heard of our guns, it was not "withGUt great difficulty that they were perfuaded to come under our fteru : after having boiight fome of their cloaths, as well as their filli, we began to make en- quiries concerning their country, and learnt, by the help of Tupia, that, at the diftance of three days rowing in their canoes, at a place called Moore-whennua, the Jand would take a Ihort turn to the fouthward, and from thence extend no more to the weft. This place we con- cluded to be the land difcovered by Tafman, which he called Cape Maria van Diemen, and finding thcfe people fo intelligent, we enquired farther, if they knew of any country befides their own ; they anfwered, that ihcy never had vifited any other, but that their anceftors had told them, that to the N. W. by N. or N. N. W. there was a country of great extant, called Ulimaroa, tx> which fome people had failed in a very large canoe ; that only part of them returned, and reported, that after a paiTage of a month thpf*had leen a country where tiie people eat hogs. Tupia then enquired whether thefe adventurers brought any hogs with them when thev re- turned ; they faid No : then, replied Tupia, your ftory is certainly falfe, for it cannot be believed that n^en who came baclc from an expedition without hogs, had ever vilited a couritry where hogs were to be procured. It is however remarkable, notwithftanding the fhrewdnels of Tupia's objedlion, that when they mentioned hogs it was -not by dcfcription but by name, calling them Booab, the name which is given them in the South-iea iflands ; but if tiie animal had been whplly unkno\<'ii to them, CAPTAIN COOK'S T'RST VOYAGE. 327 them, and they had had no communication with people to whom it was known, they could not poflibly have been acquainted with the name. From the 9th of December, in a range from the Bay of Iflands round North Cape, to the 14th of January nothing material occurred.— At noon that day the north weft extremity of the land in fight bore 3. 63 W. and fome high land, which had the appearance of an ifland lying under the main, bore S. S. JE. diftant five leagues. We were now in a bay, the bottom of which bearing fouth we could not fee, though it was clear in that quar- ter. Our latitude by obfervation was 40 d. 27 m. S. longitude 184 d. 29 m, \V. At eight in the evening, we were withm two leagues of the land which we had difcovered in the morning, having run ten leagues fince noon : the land then bore S. 6;^ W. now bore N. 59 ,W, at the diftance of fcven or eight leagues, and had the appearance of an ifland. Between this land and Cape Egmont Jies the bay, the wca fide of which was our fituation at this time, and the land here is of a confiderable height, and diverfiified by hill and valley. »l f r I ■ • f 1 1 r '^ Trarf^ i /^' b(^i^: -^ ^ 0/../d,^,:B:',/^, y »^ 3'it CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. Tran/a^ions in ^een Charlottes Sound : Pajage tbrsu^b the Streight which divides the two IJlands^ and back to Cape Tttrnagain : Horrid Cuftom of the Inhabit ants : Re- markable Melody of Birds : A Vifit to a Heppah^ and .. many other Particulars, THE fhore at this place feemed to form feveral bays, into one of whkh I propofed to carry the fhip, which was become' very foul, in order to careen her, and at the fame time repair fome defeats, and recruit our wood and water. With this view, I kept plying on and off all night, having from eighty to fixty-three fathom. At day- break the next morning, I ftood for an inlet which runs in S. W. and at eight ij^ot within the entrance, which may be known by a reet of rocks, ftretching from the north-weft point, and fome rocky iflands which lie off the fouth-eaft point. At nine o'clock, there being little wind, and what there was beir»^ variable, we were car- ried by the tide or current within two cables' length of the north-weft fhore, where we had fifty-four fathom water, but, by the help of our boats, we got clear. Juft at this time we faw a fea-lion rife twice near the fliore, tne head of which exactly refembles that of the male which has been defcribed in the Account of Lord Anfon's Voyage. We alfo faw fome of the natives in a canoe crofs the bay, and a village lituated upon the point of an ifland v/hich lies feven or eight miles with- m the entrance. At noon, we were the length of this ifland, but there being little wind, the boats were or- dered ahead to tow. About one o'clock, we hauled clofe round the fouth-wcft end of the ifland j and the in!ia- # CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 339 inhabitants of the village which was built upon it, were immediately up in arms. About two, we ancliored in a very fafe ancf convenient cove, on the north-weft fide of the bay, and facing the fouth-weft end of the ifland, in eleven fathom water, with foft ground, and moored with the ftream anchor. We were about four long cannon (hot diftant from the village or Heppah, from which four canoes were immediately difpatched, as we imagined to reconnoitre, and, if they (hould find themfelvcs able, to take us. The men were all well armed, and drefled nearly as they are reprefented in the figure publiQied by Tafman j two corners of the cloth which they wrappea round the bo- dy were palled over the fhoulders from behind, and be- ing brought down to the upper edge of it before, were made faft to it ju ft under the breaft ; but few, or none, had feathers in their hair. They rowed round the (hip feveral times, with their ufual tokens of menace and de- fiance, and at laft began the aflault by throwing fome ftones : Tupia ei..poftulated with them, but apparently to very little purpofe ; and we began to fear that they" would oblige us to fire at them, when a very old man in one of the boats exprefled a defire of coming on board. We gladly encouraged him in his defign, a rope was thrown mto his canoe, and ftie was immediately alongfide of the (hip : the old man rofe up, and pre- pared to come up the fhip's fide, upon which all the reft expoftulated with great vehemence againft the at- tempt, and at laft laid hold of him, and held him back : he adhered, however, to his purpofe with a calm but fteady perfeverance, and having at length difengaged himfelt, he came on board. We received him with all pofTible expreffions of friendftiip and kindnefs, and af- ter fome time, diimiflfed him, with many prefents to his companions. As foon as he was returned on board his canoe, the people in all the reft began to dance, but whether as a token of enmity or friendftiip we could not certainly determine, for we had feen them dance in a difpofition both for peace and war. In a fhort Vol.L— N'^p. Tt time, 330 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. time, liowcver, they retired to their fort, and foon af- ter I went on Ihore, with mod of tlie geiidernen, at tlic bottom of the cove, abreaft of the fliip. We found a line ilream of excellent water, and wood in the grcatcft plenty, for the land here was one forell, of vad extent. As we brought the i'einc with us, wc hauled it once or twice, and with fuch fuccefs that we caught ne«ir three hundred weight of fifh of different forts, which was equally diftributed among the Ihip's company. At day-break, while wc were bufy in careening the fhip, three canoes came oif to us, having on board a- bove a hundred men, befides feveral of their women, which we Were pleafed to fee, as, in general, it is a ligii of peace ; but they foon afterwards became very trou- blefome, and gave us reafon to apprehend fome mif- chief from them to the people that were in our boats alongfide the Ihip. While we vvere in this fituation, the long-boat was fent alhore with fome Water calks, and fome of the canoes attempting to follow her, we found it necefiary to intimidate them by firing fome fmall (hot : we were at fuch a diftance that it was im- pofliWe to hurt them, yet our reproof had its effect, and they defiftcd from the purfuit. They had fome lifh in their canoes which they now offered to fell, and which, though it flunk, we confentetl to buy : for this purpofe a man in a fmall boat was fent among them, and they traded for fome time very fairly. At length, however, one of them, watching his opportunity, fnatched at fome paper which our market-man held in his hand, imd miflmg it, immediately put himfelf in a poflure of defence, flourifliing his Patoo-patoo, and making fhow as if he was about to ftrike ; fome fmall fhot were then fired at him from the fhip, a few of which flruck him upon the knee : ^this put an end to our trade, but the Indians flill continuea near the fhip, rowing round her many times, and converfmg with Tupia, chiefly con- cerning the traditions they had among them with re- fpcd to the antiquities of their country. To this fub- i . CAPTAIN cook's FIRST VOYAGE. 331 jed they were led by the enquiries which Tupia had been directed to make, whether they had ever fecn fucli a veird as ours, or had ever heara that any fuch liad been upon their coafl. Thel'e enquiries were all anfwcr- cd in the negative, fo that tradition has preferved a- niong them no memorial of Tafman ; though, by aa obfervation made this day, we iind that we arc only fif- teen miles fouth of Murderei*s bay, our latitude beinp; 41 d. 5 m. 32 f. and Murderer's pay, according to his account, being 40 d. 50 m. The women in theie canoes, and fome of the men, ]iad a head-drefs which we had not before fcen. It con- lifted of a bunch of black feathers, made up in a round form, and tied upon the top of the head, which it in^ tirely covered, and made it twice as high, to appear-i ance, as it was in reality. After dinner, I went in the pinnace with Mr Banks» Dr Solander, Tupia, and fome others, into another cove^ about two miles diftant from that in which the (liip lay : in our way we faw fomcthing floating upon the water, which we took for a dead feal, but upon rowing up to it, found it to be the body of a woman, which, to all ap- pearance had been dead fome days. We proceeded to our cove, where we w^eht on fhore, and found a fmall family of Indians, who appeared to be greatly terrified at our approach, and all ran away except one. A con- verfation between this perfon and Tupia foon brought back the reft, except an old man and a child, who ftill kept aloof, but ftood peeping at us from the woods. Of thefe people, our curio! ity naturally led us to enquire after the body of the woman which we had feen float- ing upon the water : and they acquainted us, by Tupia,. that (he was a relation, who had died a natural death ; and that, according to their cuftom, they ha^l tied a Hone to the body, and thrown it into the fea, which ftone, they fuppofed, had by fome accident been difen- gaged. This family, when we came on ftiore, was employ- ed in dreflling feme provifions : the body of a dog was T t 2 a^ 33« CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. at this time buried in their oven, and many provifion bafkets flood near it. Having caft our eyes carelefsly into one of thefe, as we palled it, we faw two bones pretty cleanly picked, which did not feem to be the bones of a doe, and which, upon a nearer examination, we difcovered to be thofe or a human body. At this fight we were ftruck with horror, though it was only a confirmation of what we had heard many times fmce we arrived upon this coall. As we could have no doubt but that the bones were human, neither could we have any doubt but that the flefli which covered them Aiad been eaten. They were found in a provifion baf- ket ; the flefti that remained appeared manifefl:ly to have, been drefled by fire, and in tlie griftles at the end were the marks of the teeth which had gnawed them : to put and end, however, to conjedure, rounded upon circum- flances and appearances, we dire^ed Tupia to afk what bones they were ; and the Indians, without the leaft hefitation, anfwered, tiie bones of a mari : they were then afked what was becpme of the flelh, and they re- plied that they had eaten it : but, faid Tupia, why did you not eat the body of the woman which we faw float- ing upon the water : the woman, faid they, died of dif- cale ; befides, fhe was our relation, and we eat only the bodies oi our eneniies, who are killed in battle. Upon enquiry who the man yvas whofe bones we had found, they told us, that about five days before a boat belonging to their enemies came into the bay, with many perfons on board, and that this man was one of feven whom they had killed. Though ftronger evi- dence of this horrid practice prevailing among the in- habitants of this coaft will fcarcely b^ required, we have ftill ftronger to give. One of us afked if they had any human ^ones with the flefh remaining Upon them, and upon th^ir anfwering us that all had been eaten, we af- fected to difbelieye that the bones were human, and faid, that they were the bones of a dog ; \ipon which one of the Indians, with fome eagernefs, took hold of his own fore-arm, and thrufting it towards us, faid, that the " bone CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 333 bone which Mr Banks held in his hand had belonged to tliat part of a human body ; at the fame lime, to con- vince us that the flcfli bad been eaten, be took hold of his own arm with hli teeth, and made fliew of eating : lie alfo bit and gnawed the bone which Mr Banks had taken, drawing it through his rnoqth, and (hewing, by iigns, that it had afforded a delicious repau ; the hone was then returned to Mr Banks, and he brought it away with him. Among the perfons of this family, there was a woman who had her arms, legs, and thidis frightfully cut in feveral places ; nnd we were told that (lie had inflidled the wounds upon herfelf, in token of ier grief for the lofs of her hufband, who had been late- ly kuled and eaten by their enemies, who had come froni fome placet© the eaO: ward, towards which the in-? dians pointed. The fhip lay at the diftance of fomewhat lefs than a quarter of a mUe from the fliore, and in the morning we w^'e awakened by the fmging of birds: the num- ber was incredible, and they feeaied to ftrain their throats in emulation of each other. This wild melody was infinitely fuperior to any that we had ever heard of the fame kind ; it feenaed to be like fmall bells moft ex- quifitely tuned, and perhaps the diftance, and the water between, might be no (iiiall z^dvantage to the found. Upon enquiry, we were informed that the birds here always began to fmg about two hours after midnight, and continuing their m^ufic till fun-fet, were, like our nightingales, filent the reft of the day. In the forenoon^ a imall canoe came off froni the Indian village to the ftiip, an(yfti>ong thofe that were in it, was the old man who had nrft -ome on board at our arrival in the bay. As foon as it came alongfide, Tupia renewed the con- verfation, that had palled the day before, concerning their pradice of eating hun^an flcui, during which they repeated what they had now told us already : but, faid Tupia, where are the heads ^ do you eat them too? Of the heads, faid the old man, we eat only the brains, and the next time I com? 1 will bri^^g fome of them to '"".f. •' con-? . 334 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGZ. convince you that what we have told you is truth. After feme farther converfation between thele people and Tu- pia, they told him that they rxpc£ted their enemies lO come very Ihorily, to revenge the death of the feven men whonr they had killed and eaten. On the 1 8th, the Indians were more quiet than ufual, no canoe came near the (hip, ncr did ive fee one of them moving on the Ihore, their fifning, and other i fual oc- cupations being totally fufpended. We thought they expedled an attack on this day, and therefore attended xnorc diligently to what parted on ihore ; but we faw nothing to gratify our curiofity. After breakfa(t, we went out in the pinnace, to take a view of the bay, which was of vaft extent, and con- ilfted of numberlcfs fmall harbours and coves, in every diredion : we conlined our excurfion, however, to the Tc-eftern fide, and the country being an impenetrable foreft where we landed, we could fee nothing worthy of notice : we killed, however, a good number of fhaggs, which we faw fitting upon their nefls in the trees, and which, whether roafted or ftewed, we confidered as very good provifion. As we were returning, we faw a fingle man in a canoe fifhing ; we rowed up to him, and to our great furprize he took not the Icaft notice of us, but even when we were alongfide of him, continued to fol- low his occupation, without adverting to us any more than if we had been invifible. He did not, however, appear to he either fullen or Aupid : we requefted him ^ To draw up \m net, that we might examine it, and he readily complied : it was of a circular form, extended by two hoops, and about levcn or eight feet in diameter: the top was open, and fea-ears were faftened to the bot- rofn as a bait : this he let down fo as to lie upon the l^round, and when he thought fifli enough were affem- bled over ir, he drew it up by a very gentle and even motion, fo that the fidi rofe with it, fcarcely fenfible that they were lifted, till they came very near the furfuce of the water, and then were brought out in the net by a fudden jerk. By this limple method he had caugliC abun- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 335 abundance of filh, and indeed they are fo plenty in this bay,t!iatthe catching them requires neither much labour nor art. This day, fome of our people found in the ikirts of the wood, near a hole or oven, three human hip bones, which they brought on board ; a farther proof tliat thcfc people eat human flefli : Mr Monkhoufe, our Surgeon, alfo brought or; board, from a place v/here he faw many deferted houfcs, the hair of a man's head, which he had found, among many other things, tied up to the branches of trees. In tiie morning of tlie 19th, we fet up the armourer'^ forge to repair the braces of the tiller, and other iron- work, all hands on board being ftlll bufy in careening, and other necefiary operations about the vciTel : this day, fome Indians came on board from another part of the bay, where they faid there was a town which we had not feen ; they brought plenty of fiQi, which they fold for nails, having now acquired fome notion of their uft-; and in this traffick no unfair pradlice was attempted. In the morning of the 20th, our old man kept his promifc, and brought on board four of the heads of tii« feven people who had been To \nuch the iuhjcct of our enquiries : the haii and ficlh were entire, but we per- ceived that the brains had been extracted ; the flcdi was loft, but had b^fome method been prelerved from j>ii- trefadion, for it had no diiligreeablc rinell. Mr Banks purchafed one of them, but they ibid it with great reluc- tance, and could not by any m^ans be prevailed upon ta part with a fecond ; probably they may be prelerved as trophies, like the fcalps in America, and the jaw-bones in the iflands of the South Seas. Upon examining the head which had been bought by Mr Banks, we perceiv- ed that it had received a blow upon the temples, which had fradured the fkull. This day we made anotiier cm- curiion in the pinnace, to furvey the bay, but we found no Ibt large enough for a potatoc garden, nor could we difcover the leaft appearance of cukivation : we met not a lingle Indiaji, but found an excellent harbour ; and about 33^' CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE, /», about eight o'clock in the evening returned on board the fhip. On the 2 1 ft, Mr Banks and Dr Solander went a fifli- ing with hook and line, and caught an immenfe quan- tity every where upon the rocks, in between four and five fathom water : the feine was hauled every night, and feldom failed to fupply the whole fhip's company with as much filh as they could ear. This day all the people had leave to go on fiiore at the watering-place, and divert themfelves as they fhould think proper. In the morning of the 2 2d, I fet out again in the pin- nace, accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, with a defign to examine the head of the inlet, but after row- ing about four or five leagues without fo much as com- ing in fight of it, the wind being contrary, and the day half fpent, we went on (hore on the foulh eaft fid^, to try what might be difcovered from the hills. Mr Banks and Dr Solander immediately employed themfelves in botanizing near the beach, and I, taking a feaman with me, afcended one of the hills : when i reached the fummit, I found a view of the inlet inter- cepted by hills, which in that diredion rofe ftill higher, and which were rendered innacceflible by impenetrable woods ; I was, however, abundantly compenfated for my labour, for I f'.w the fea on the eiaftern fide of the country, and a pafTage leading from it to that on the weft, a little to the eaftward of the entrance of the inlet where the (hip now lay. The main land which !«/ on the fouth eaft fide of this inlet, appeared to be a narrow ridge of very high hills, and to form part of the fouth weft fide of the ftreight ; the land on the oppofite fide appeared to trend away eaft as far as the eye dould reach ; and to the fouth eaft there appeared to be an opening to the fea, which waftied the the eaftern coaft : on the eaft fide of the inlet alfo 1 faw fomc iflands which I had be- fore taken to be part of the main land. Having made this difcovery, I defcended the hill, and as foon as we had taken fome refreftimcnt, we fet out on our return to the fhip. In our way we^ examiaed the harbours and coves CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 337 coves which lie behind the iflands that I had difcover- ed from the hill ; and in this rout we faw an old village, in which there were many houfes tlut feemed to have been long deferted : we alio faw another village which was inhabited, but the day was too far fpent for us to vilit it, and we, therefore, made the heft of our way to the fhip, which we reached between eight and nine o'clock at night. The 23d I employed in carrying on a furvey of the place ; and upon one of the iilands where I landed, I law many houfes which feemed to have been long de- ferted, and no appearance of jmy inhabitant. On the 24th, we went to vifit our friends at the Hip- pah or village on the point of the ifland near the (hip's llation, who had come off to us on our firft arrival in the bay. They received us with the utmoft confidence and civility, fhewing us every part of their habitations, which were commodious and neat. The ifland or rock on which this town is filuated, is divided from the main by a breach or fiflure fo narrow, that a man might al- moft lean from one to the other : the iides of it are every where fo fteep as to render the artificial fortification of thefe people almoft unneceflary : there was, however, one flight pallifade, and one Imall fighting-ftage, to- wards that part of the rock where accefs v/as lead dif- ficult. The people here brought us out feveral human bones, the fleih ot which they had eaten, and offered them to Tale ; for the curiofity of thofe among us who had pur- chafed them as memorials of the horrid pra^ice which many, notwithwanding the reports of travellers, have profefled nof to believe, had rendered them a kind of article of trade. In one part of this village we obferved, not without furprize, a crofs exadly like that of a cru- ciiix ; it was adorned with feathers, and upon our en- quiring for what purpofe it had been fet up, we were told that it was a monument for a man who was dead : vye had before underftood that their dead were not bu- ried, but throv^n into the fea ; but to our enquiry how YoLi^N^j. Uu the 338 CAPTAIN COOK'b FIRST VOYAGE. the body of the man had been difpofed of, to whofe memory this crofs had been ere<^ed, they refufed to anCwer. When we left thefe people, we T^ent to the other end of the ifland, and there taking water, croU'ed over to the main, where we faw fevcial houfes, but no inhabi- tants, except a few in fome ft niggling canoes, that fectn- ed to be lilhing. After viewing thij place, we re- turned on board the fhip tOvdinner. During our vilit to the Indians this day, Tupia be- ing alw'ays of our party, thty h:.d bten obferved to be continually talking of guns, and fhooting people: for this fubjedt ot their converfation we could not at all ac- count 'f and it had fo much engaged our attention, that we talked of ir all the way back, and even after we got on board the Ihip : we bail perplexed ourfelves with various conjedures, vvhich were all given up in their turn ; but now we learnr, that on the 2 ill one of our oflicers^ upon pretence of going out to fifh, had rowed up to the Heppah, and that two or three canoes comifig off towards his boat, his fears luggefted that an attack was intended, in confequence of which three mulkets were fired, one with fmall fiiot, and two with ball, at the Indians, who retired with the utmoft precipitation, having probably come out with friendly intentions, for fuch their behaviour both before -and afterwards exprel- {ed^ and having no reafon to expert fuch treatment from people who had always behaved to them not on- ly with humanity, but kindnefs, and to whom they were not confcious of having given offence. On the 25th I made another excurfion alon^ the coaft, in the pinnace, towards the mouth of the inlet, accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander^ and go- ing on fhore at a Httle cove, to fhoot fhags, we fell in with a large family of Indians, whofe cuftom it is to difpcrfe themfelves among the different creeks and coves, where fiih is to be procured in the greateft plen- ty, leaving a few only in the Heppah, to which the rell repair in times of danger. Some of thefe people came our CAPTAIN COOK'S FIR3T VOYAGE. 33f out a good way to meet us, and gave us an invitation to go with them to the reft of their party, which we readily accepted. We found a company of ahout thir- ty, men, women, and children, who received us with all poflihle demonftrations of friendQiip : wediftributed among them a few ribands and beads, and in return, received the kiflcs and embraces of both fexes, both young and old : they gave us alfo fome fifh, and after a little time we returned, much pleafed with our new acquaintance. In the morning of the 26ih, I went again out in the boat, with Mr Banks and Dr Solander, and entered one of the bays, which lie on the eaft fide of the inlet, in orJer to get another fight of the ftreight, which paffed between the eafteru and weftern feas. For this purpofc, having landed at a convenient place, we climbed a hill of very confiderabJe height, from which we had a full view of it, with the land on the oppofitc (hore, which \vc judged to^be about four leagues diftant; but as it was hazy in the horizon, we could not fee far tothe fouth-caft : I refolved, however, to fearch the paffage v^ith the (hip, as foon as 1 fhould put to fea. Upon the top of this hill we found a parcel of loofe ftones, with which we eredted a pyramid, and left in it fome mpfiiet balls, fm all. f hot, beads, and other things,which we happened to have about us, that were likely to ftand theteft of time, and not being of Indian workmanlhip, would convince any European who ftiould come to the place and pull it down, that other natives of Europe had been there before him. When this was done, we defcended the hill, and made a comfortable meal of the fliags, and filh which our guns and lines had procured us, and which were drefled by the boat's crew in a: place that we had appointed : in this place we found another Indian family, who received us, as ufual, with ftrong expreflions of kindnefs and pleafure, (hewing us where to procure Water, and doing us fuch other good offices as were in their power. troru this place 'we went tothe town, of which the V n z Indiana 34» CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRSt VOYAGE. Indians had told us, who vifited us on the 19th : this, like that which we had feen before, was built upon a fmall ifland or rock, fo difficult of accefs, that we gratified our curiofity at the rlfk of our necks. The Indians here alfo receivea us with open arms, carried us to every part of the place, and fhewed us all that it contained : this town, like the other, ronfifted of between eighty and an hun- dred houfes, and had only one fighting flage. We happened to have with us a.fcw nails and ribands, and fome paper, with which our quells were fo gratified, that at our coming away they filled our boat with dried fiih, of which we perceived they had laid up grea^ quantities. The 27th and 28th we fpent in refitting the fhip for the fea, fixing a tranfom for the tillerv getting ftones on board to put into the bottom of the bread-room, to bring the fhip more by the flern, in repairing the cafks, an^ catching fifh. On the 2gth, we received a vifit from our old man, whofe name we found to be Top a a, and three other native^", with whom Tupia had much converfation. The old man told us, that one of the men who. had been fired upon by the officer who had viliied their Heppah, under pretence of fifhing, was dead ; but to my great comfort 1 afterwards difcovered that this report was not true, and that if Topaa's difcourfes were taken liter«lly, they would frequently lead us into miflakes. Mr Banks and Dr Solander were feveral times on (bore during the lafl two or three days, not without fuccefs, but greatly circumfcribed in their w^alks by climbers of a moft lux- uriant growth, which were fo interwoven together, as to fill up the fpace between the trees about which they grew, and render the woods altogether impaflable. This day alfo I went on ih ^re again myfel£ upon the weflern point of the inlet, and from a hill of confidera- ble height, I had a view of the coaflto the N. W. The farthefi land I could fee in that quarter, was an ifland at the diftance of about ten leagues, lying not far from the main : between this ifland an4 the place where 1 . . ' flood, CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 34* flood, I difcovered, clofe under the fhore, feveral other iflands, forming many bays, in which there appeared to be good anchorage for ihipping. After I had fet oflF the different points for my furvey, I erefted another pile of ftones, in which I left a piece of filver coin, with fome miifket balls and beads, and a piece of an old pendant flying on the top. In my return to the (hip, I made a vifit to feveral of the natives, whom I faw along the (hore, and purcliafed a fmall quantity of fifii. On the 30th, early in the morning, I fent a boat to one of the iflands for celery, and while the people were gathering it, abbut twenty of the natives, men, women, and children, landed near fome empty huts ; as foon as they were on (hore, five or fix of the women fat down upon the ground together, and began to cut their legs, arms, and faces, with (hells, and Iharp pieces of talc or jafper, in a terribly manner. Our people underftood that their hufbands had lately been killea by their ene- mies ; but while they were performing this horrid cere- mony, the men fet about repairing the huts, wdth the utmoft negligence ai>d unconcern. The carpenter having prepared two ports to be left as memorials of our having vifited this place, I ordered them to be infcribed with the ihip's name, and the year and rnonth ; one of them I fet up at the watering-place, holding the Union flag upon the top of it ; and the otiier I carried over to the ifland that lies nearefl: to the ^ fea, called by the natives Motuara. I went firfl: to the village or Heppah, accompanied by Mr Monkhoufe and Tupia, where I met with our old man, and told him and feveral others, by means of Tupia, that we xvere come to fet up a mark upon the Ifland, in order to: fliow to any other fhip which ihould happen to come thither, that we had been there before. To this they readily confented, and promifed that they never would pull it down ; I then gave fomcthing to every one pre-^- fent; and to the old man I gave a filver threepence, f dated 1 7 36, and fome fpike nails, with the king's broad arrow cut deep upon them ; things which i thought moft 342 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. mod likely to remain long among them : 1 then took the poll to the higlieft part of the iliand, and, after fixing it firmly in the ground, 1 hoifted upon it theUnion flag,and honoured this inlet with the name of Queen Char- lotte's Sound, at the fame time taking formal pof- felfion of this and the adjacent country, in the name and for the ufe of his Majefty King George the Third. We then drank a botde of wine to her Majefty 's health, aad gave the bottle to the old man who had attended us up the hill, and who was mightily delighted with his prefent. -^ While the poft was fetting up, we inquired of th| old man concerning the pafTage into the eaftern fea, the cxifterice of which he confirmed ; and then alked him about the land to the S. W. of the ftreight, where we were then Ikuated : this land, he faid, confifted of two Whennuas or iflands, which might be circumnavigated in a few days, and which he called Tow Poenam- MOO ; the literal tranflation of this word is, *' the water of green talc :" and probably if we had underftood him better, we fliould have found that Tovy Poenam- moo was the name of forae particular place where they got the green talc or ftone of which they make their or- naments and tools, and not a general name for the whole | fouthern diftriy this account of the heads, the Sound will be fulficiently known : at the entrance, it is three leagues broad, and lies S.W. by S. S. W. and W. S. W. at leafl: ten leagues, and is a collection of fome of the iinefl harbours in the world. The land forming the Ii arbour or cove in which we lay, is called by the na- tives ToTARftANtJE : the harbour itfelf, which I call- ed Ship Cove, is not inferior to any in the Sound, either for convenience or fafety : it lie:? on the weft fide of the found, and is the fouthcrmoft of three coves, that are fitualed within the ifland of Motuara, which hsati e,i(i of it. Ship Gove may be entered, either between Motuara and a long iHand, called by the natives Ha-; MOTE, or between Motuara and the weftcrn fhore. In tjie laft of thefe channels are two ledges of rocks, three- Vol. I.~N° 9. X X fathom CAPTAIN COOIC'6 FIRST VOYAGE. fathom iiider water, which may cafily be known by fhe fea-weed that grows upon them. In failing either in or out of the Sound, with little wind, attention muft be had to tiie tides, which flow about nine or ten o'clock at the full and change of the moon, and rife and fall be- tween (^Mtn and eight feet perpendicularly. The flood comes in through the ftreight from the S. E. and fets ilron^ly over upon the north weft head, and the reef thAt hes oiTit : the ebb fets with ftill greater rapidit)' to the ^'. E. over upon the rocks and iflandsthat lie onthc fouth eaft.hcad. The variation ofthecompafs we found from good obfervation to be 13 d. 5: m. E. The land about this found, whicn is of futh a height that we faw it atthe diftance of twenty leagues, conlifts wholly of high hills and deep vallies, well ftored with a variety of excellent timber, fit for all, purpofes except mafls, for which it is too hard and heavy. The fea abounds with a variety of fifii, fo that without going out of the cove where we lay, we caught every day, with the feine and hooks and lines, a quantity lufRcient to ferve the whole fliip*s company : and along the fhore we found plenty of Ihags ancl a few other fpecies of wild fowl, which thofe who have long lived upon fait provi- lions will not think defpicable food. The number of inhabitants fcarcely exceeds four hun- dred, and they live difperfed along the ihores, where their food, conlifting of h(h and fern roots, is mod eafily procured : for we faw no cultivated ground. Upon any appearance of danger, they retire to their Heppahs, or forts ; in this (ituation we found them, and m this fituation they continued for fome time after our arrival. In comparifon of the inhabitants of other parts of this country, they are poor, and their canoes are without or- nament : the little traffic we had with them was wholly for fifh, and indeed they had fcarcely any thing elfe to difpofe of. They feemed, however, to have fome know- ledge of iron, which the inhabitants of fome other part* had not ; for they willingly took nails for their fifh, and fom«- CAPTAIN' COOK'S FIR^T VOYAGE. 34: fomctimcs feemed to prefer it to every thing elfe that we could offer, which had not always been the cafe. They were at iirft very fond of paper ; hut when tfiey found that it was fpoiled hy hcing wet, they would not take it : neither did they fet much value upon the cloth \ of Otaheite ; but Englifli broad cloth, and red kcrfey, were in high eftimation ; which fliewed that they hail fcnfe enough to appretiate the commodities which we offered by their ufe, which is more than could be laid of fome of their neighbours, who made a much better appearance. Their drefs has been mentioned aheady, particularly their large round head-dreffes of feathers, which were far from being unbecoming. As foon as we got out of the Sound, I flood over to the eaftward, in order to get the ftreight well open be- fore the tide of ebb came on. At fevcn in the evening, the two fmall iflands which lie off Cape Koarmaroo, the fouth-eaft head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, bore eaft, diltant about four miles : at this time it vyas nearly calm, and the tide of ebb fetting out, wc were, in a very fliort time, carried by the rapidity of the ftreani clofe upon one of the iflands, which was a rock rifing almoft per- pendicularly out of the fea : we perceived our danger mcreafe every moment, and had but one expedient to prevent our being daflied to pieces, the fuccefs of which a few minutes' would determine. We were now with- in litde more than a cable's length of the rock, and had more than feventy-five fathom water ; but upon drop- inng an anchor, and veering about one hundred and lifty fathom of cable, the fhip was happily brought up ; this, however, would not havefaved us, if the tide which fet S. by K. had not, upon meeting with the ifland, changed its diredion to S. E. and carried us beyond the firft point. In this fituation, we were not above two cable s length from the rocks ; and here we remained in the ftrength of the tide, which fet to the S. E. after the rate of at leaft five miles an hour, from a little after feven till near midnight, when the tide abated, and we began to heave. By three in the morning the anchor X X 2 was ■V 348 CAPTAIN COOK'S TIRST VOYAGE. was at the bows, and having a light breeze at N. W. we made fail fcT tlie eaftern Ihore : but the tide being a^ainft us, we made but little way : tlie wind however afterwards frefliened, and came to N. and N. E. with which, and the tide of ebb, we were in a (hort time hur- ried through the narrowcft part of the ftreight, and then ftood away for the fouthermoft land we had in fight, which bore from us S. by W, Over this land appeared a mountain of llupendous height, which was covered with fnow. The narrowed part of the flreight, through which we had been driven with fuch rapidity, lies between Cape Tierawitte, on the coaft of Eaheinomauwe, and Cape Koamaroo .; the diftance between them I judged to be between four and five leagues, and notwithftandifig the tide, now its ftrength is known, may be pafled with- out much danger. It is however fafeR to keep on the xiorth-eaft Ihore, for on that fide there appeared to be nothing to fear ; but on the other (horc there are not only the iflands and rocks which lie off Gape Koamaroo, but a reef of rocks ftrttching from thefe iflands fix or fevcn miles to the fouthward, at the diftance of two oi; three miles from the Ihore, which I had difcovered from the hill when I took my lecond view of the flreight from the eall to the weftern fca. About nine leagues north from Cape Tierawitte, and under the fame (hore, is a high and, remarkable ifland which may be diftindly feen from Queen Charlotte's Sound, from which it is diftant about fix or feveii leagues. This ifland, vvhich was woticed when we pafled it on the 14th of January, 1 have called Entry Islk. , On the eaft fide of Cape Tierawitte, the land trends away S. E. by E. about eight leagues, where it ends in a point, and is the ibuthermofl land on Eatheinomauwe, To this point I have given the name of Cape PAtLi- SER, in honour of my worthy friend Captain Talliler. }t lies in latitude 41 d. 34 m. 8. longitude 183 d. ^8 111. W, and bore from us this day at noon S. 70 E. diftar.t about thirteen leagues, the ihip beirg then in the latitude of CArTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 349 r.f 41 d. 27 m. S. Koamaroo at the fame time bearing N. i E. diilant feven or eight leiigucs. The fouthermoft land in fight bore S. 1 6 W. and the fno'vvy mountain S. W. At this time we were about three leagues from the Ihore, and abreaft of a deep bay or inlet, to which 1 gave the name of Cloudy Bay, and at the bottom of which there appeared low land co- vered with tall trees. At three o'clock in the afternoon we were abreaft of the Ibuthermoft point of the land that we had feen ^t noon, which I called Cape Campbell ; it lies S. by W. diftant between twelve anci thirteen leagues from Cape Koamaroo, in lathucle 41 d. 44 m. S. longitude 183 d. 45 m. W. and with Cape Pallifer forms the fouthcrn entrance of the ftreight, the diilance between them being between thirteen and fourteen leagues W, by S. and E. by N. From this Cape we fteered along the fliore S. \V. by S. till eight o'clock in the evening, when the wind died away. About half an hour afterwards, however, a freJli breeze fprung up at S, W. and I put the fliip right be- fore it. My reafon for tiiis, was a notion which fome of the officers had juft flarted, that Eahicnomauwe was not an ifland, and that the land might Itretch away to the S. E. from between Cape Turnagain and Cape Pal- lifer, there being a fpace of between twelve and fifteen leagues that we had not feen. I had, indeeil, tlie llrongeft convic^iion that they were miftaken, not only from what I had (ccn the iirft time 1 difcovered the Ibeight, but from many other concurrent teftimonics that the land in quelVion was an ifland ; but being rc- lolved to leave no poflibility of doubt with rel'peQ to an objed: of fucli importance, I took the opportunity of the wind's ihifting, to flaiid eaiivvard, and accordingly fteered N. E. by E. all the night. At nine o'clock in the morning we were abreaft of Cape Pailifer, and found the land trend away N. E. towards Cape Turnagain, which 1 reckoned to be diftant about twenty-Hx leagues: hov\- 35® CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. however, as the weather was hazy, fo as to prevent our feeing above four or five leagues, I ftill kept (landing to the N. E. with a light breeze at foutn; and at noon Cape Pallifer bore N. 72 W. diftant about three leagues. About three o'clock in the afternoon, three canoes came up to the fliip with between thirty and forty peo- ple on board, who had been pulline after us with great labour and perfeverance for lome time : they appeared to be more cleanly, and a better clafs, than any we had met with fince we left the Bay of Iflands, and their ca- noes were alib diiVmguifhed by the fame ornaments which we had fecn upon the northerly part of the coaft. Tliey came on board with very little invitation ; and their behaviour was courteous and friendly : upon re- ceiving ])rerents from us, they made us prefents in re- turn, v/hich had not been done by any of the natives that we had feen before. We foon perceived that our j;uel\s had heard of us, for as foon as they came on board, they afked for Whow^ the name by which nails were known among the people with whom we had trafficLi:d : but though they had heard of nails, it was plain they had Iccn none j for when nails were given them, they aiked Tupia what they were. The term Whow^ indeed, conveyed to them the idea not of their quality, but only of their ufe ; for it is the fame by which they diftingiiiih a tool, commonly made of bone, which they ufe both as an augur and a chiffeJ. How- ever, their knowing that we had Whow to fell, was a proof that their connections exteaded as far north as Cape Kidnappers, w^hich was dillant no lefs than foit}^- five leagues; for that was the fouthermoft place on this fide the coall where we had had any traffic with the natives. It is alfo probable, that the little knowledge which the inhabitants of Queen Charlotte's Sound had of iron, they obtained from their neighbours at Tiera- witte ; for we had no reafon to think that the inhabi- tants of any part of this coaft had the leaft knowledge CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 351 of iron or its ufe before ive came among them, efpe- cially as when it was firlt oiftred they leemed to dif- regard it as of no vaiue. We thought it probable, that we were now once more in the territories of Tcratu ; but upon enquiring of thefe people, they faid that he wa'i not theiu King. After a fhort time, they went away, much gratified with the prefents that we had made them ; and v/e purfued our courfe along the Ihore to the N. E. till eleven o'clock the next morn- ing. About this time, the weather happening to clear up, we faw Cape Turnagain, bearing N. by E. f E. at the diftance of about feven leagues : 1 tlien called the officers upon deck, and afked them, whether they were not now fatisfied, that Eahienomauwe was an ifland ; they readily anfwered in the affirmative, and all doubts being now removed, we hauled our wind to the eaft- ward. Rangg .^,ls 352 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. ■,r;/ Range from Cape Turnaga'tn fouthivard along the eaftern Coaji of Poenajumoo^ round Cape South^ and back to the ivejiern Entrance of Cook^s St r eighty which completed the Circumnavigation of this Country ; with a Defer ipt ion of the Coajl^ and of Admiralty Bay : The Departure f rem New Zealandy and various Particulars* AT four o'clock in .the afternoon of Friilay the 9th of February^ having tacked, we ftood S. W. and continued to make fail to the fouthward till funfet on the I ith, when a fre(h breeze at N. E. had carried U9 back again the length of Cape Pallifer, of which, as the weather was clear, we had a ^ood view. Between the foot ofthehigliland and the fea there is a low flat bor- der, off which there are fome rocks that appeared above water. Between this Cape and Cape Turnagain, the land near the fhore is, in many places, low and flat, and has a green and pleafant appearance ; but farther from the fea it rifes into hills. 1 he land between Cape Pallifer and Cape Tierawitte is high and makes in table- points ; it alfo feemed to ns to form two bays, but we were at too great h diftance from this part of the coafl, to judge accurately from appearances. The wind hav- ing been variable, with calms, we had advanced no far- ther by the 12th at noon than latitude 41 d. 52 m. Cape Pallifer then bearing north, diilant about live leagues ; and the fnowy mountain S. 8;; W. At noon on the 13th, we found ourfelves in the lati- tude of 42 d. 2 m. S. Cape Pallifer bearing N. 20 E. diftant eight leagues. In the afternoon, a fre(h g^k fprung up at N. E. and we fleered S. W by W. for the louthermoft land in fight, which at funfet bore from us S. 74 W. At this time the variatior^ was i c d. 4 m. E. CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 353 At eight o'clock in the morning of the 14th, having fun one and twenty leagues S. 58 W. fmce the prece- ding noonj it fell calm. Wc were then abreaft of the fnowy mountain \ /hich bdre from us N. W. and in this diredlion lay behind a mountainous ridge of nearly the fame height, which rifes dired:ly from the fea, and runs parallel with the fliore, which lies N. E. | N. and S. W, f S. The north- weft end of the ridge rifes inland, not far from Cape Campbell ; and both the mountain and the ridge are diftindly feen as well from Cape Koamr - roo as Cape Pallifer : from Koamaroo they are diftan : two and twenty leagues S. W. ^ S. and from Cape P^.l- lifer thirty leagues W. S. W. and are of a heighf f v r- cient to be feen at a much greater diftanci;. At noori this day» we were in latitude 42 d. 34 m. S. The fouth- crmoft land in fight bore S. W. I W. and foiiie low land that appeared like an ifland, and lay clofe under the foot of the ridge, bore N. W. by N about five or fix lea}2;ueo» in the afternoon, when Mr Banks was out in the boat a- (hooting, wc faw, with our glafles, four double canoes, having on board fifty-feven men» put off from that fhore, and make towards him : we immediately made fignals for him to come on board ; but the fhip, with relpect to him, being right in the w^ake of the fun, he did not fee them. We were at a confiderable diftance from the fliore, and he was at a confiderable diilance from the fliip, which was between him and the fhore ; fo that, it being a dead calm, 1 began to be in fome pain for him, fearing that he might not fee the canoes time enough to reach the fhip before they fhould get Mp v?ith him : foon after, however, we faw his boat ia motion, and had the pleafure to take him on board before the Indians came up, who probably had not feen him, as their attendon fcemed to be wholly fixed upon the Ihip. They came within about a Hone's caft, and then Hopped gazing at us with a look of vacant afto- nilament : Tupia exerted all his eloquence to prevail upon them to come nearer, but without any ef^edl. Vol. I.~N- y. y y After 354 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. h si After furvey ing lis for fome time, they left us, and made towaijlslhe lliore; but had not meafured more than half ink diftance between that and the Ihip before it was dark. We imagined that thefc people had heard no- thing of us, and could not but remarti the different be- haviour and difpofitions of the inhabitants of the differ- ent parts of this coaft upon their firlt approaching the reffel. Thefe kept aloof with a mixture of timidity and ivonder ; others had immediately commenced hoftili- ties, by peltinz us with ftanes : the gentleman wham tve haa found atone, liihing in his boat, feemed to think us entirely unworthy his notice; and fome, almoft with- out invitation, had come on board with an air of per- fect confidence and good-will. From the behaviour of our'laft: vifitors, 1 gave the land from which they had put ofJ^ and which, as I have before obferved, had the appearance of an ifland, the name of LooKEr s-on. At eight o'clock in the evening, a breeze fprung up at S. S. W. with which I ftretched off fouth-eaft, bc- caufe Ibme on board thought they faw land in that quarter. In this courfe we continued till fix o'clock the next morning, when we had run eleven league?, but faw no land, except that wliich we had left. Hav- ing flood to the S. E. with alight breeze, which veered from the wefl to the north, tMl noon, our latitude by obiervation was^42 d. ^6 in. S. and the highland tliat We were abreafl of the preceding noon bore N. N. W. i W. In the afternoon we had a light breeze at N. E. with which wo fleered weft, edging in for the land, which was diilant al^out eight leagues. At fevea in the evening, we were about fix leagues from the fhore, and the fouthermoft extremity of the land in fight bore W. S. W. At day-break on the i6tli, wie diftovered land bear- ing S. by W. and fcemingly detached from the the coaft w^e were upon. About eight, a breeze fprung up, at N. by E. and we fleered directly for it. At noon, we were in latitude 43 d. 19 m. S. the peak on the fhowy mounrain bore N. 2i? 1£. diftant twenty-ievea leagues; the CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. (53 t]\c fouthcrn extremity of the land we could fee bore vvel^, and the land which had been difcovere^L.in the morning appeared like an ifland extending froih S. S, W. to S. W. i W. diftant about eight leagues* In the afternoon, we ftood to the fouthward of it, with a fi*efh l)reeze at north : at eight in the evening, we had run eleven leagues, and the land then extended from S. W. by W. to N. by W. AVe were then diftant alx)Ut threfc or four leagues from the neareft (hore, and in this litu- ation had fifty fathom water, with a fine fandy bottom. The variation of the compafs by this morning's alnpli^ tudewasi4d. 39 m. E. At fun-rife, tfie next morning, our opinion that th« land we had been (landing for was an ifland, was corv- firmed, by our feeing part of the land of Tovy Poena'm- moo open to the weftward of it, extending as far ae W. by S. At eight in the morning, the extremes of the ifland bore N. 76 W. and N. N. E. 4 E. and an opening near the fouth point, which had the appear- ance of a bay or harbour, N. 20 W. diftant bet weei\ three and four leagues : in this lituation we had thirty- eight fathom water with a brown fandy bottom. This ifland, which I named after Mr Bank??, lies a-r bout five leagjies from the coaft of Tovy Poenammoo 5 the fouth point bears S. 2 1 W. from tne higheft peak on the fnowy mountain, and lies in latitude 43 d. 32 m^ S. and in longitude 1 86 d. 30 m. W. by an obferva- tion of the fun and moon which was made this morn- ing : it is of a circular figure, and about twenty-foUr leagues in compafs : it is fufficiently high to be (een at the diftance of twelve or fifteen leagues, and the land has a broken irregular furface, with jthe appearance ra- ther of barrennefs than fertility ; yet it was inhabited, for we faw fmoke in one place, and a few ftraggling natives in another. When this ifland was firfl: difcovered in the direftioti of S. by W. fome perfons on board were of opiniori that they alfo faw land bearing S. S. E. and S. E. by E, I was myfelf upon the deck at the time, and told tbem., Y y 2 that 35'<5 CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. that in my opinion it was no more than a cloud, and that as the fun rpfe it would diflipate and vanilh. However, as I was determined to leave no fubjedl for difputation which experiment could remove, I ordered the ihip to be wore, and fteered E. S. E. by corn pa fs, in the direc- tion which the land was faid to bear from us at that time. At noon we were in latitude 44 d. 7 m. S. tlie fouth point of Banks's Ifland bearing north, diftant five leagues. jBy feven o'clock at night we had run eight and twenty znile^, when feeing no land, nor any figns of any, but that which we had left, we bore away S. by W. and con- tinued upon that courfe till the next day at noon, when we were in latitude 45 d. 16 m. the fouth point of JBanks's Ifland bearing N. 6 d. ^o m. W. diftant twenty- eight leagues. The variation by the azimuth this morning was 15 d, 30 m. E. As no figns of land had yet appeared to the Ibuthward, and as I thought that we had ftood far enough in that dircdion to weather all the land we had left, judging from the report of the na- tives in Queen Charlotte's Sound, I hauled to the weft- ward. We had a moderate breeze at N. N. W. and N. till eight in the evening, when it became unfeitled ; and at ten fixed at fouth : during the night, it blew with fuch violence that it brought us under our clofe reefed topfails. At eight the next morning, having run twenty-eight leagues upon a W. by N. i N. courfe, and judging our- felves to be to the weftward of the land of Tovy Poe- xiammoo, we bore away N.W.with a frefti gale at fouth. At ten, having run eleven miles upon this courfe, we faw land extending from the S. W. to the N. W. at the diftance of about ten leagues, which we hauled up for. ,At noon, our latitude by cblervation was 44 d. 38 m, the fouth-eaft point of Banks's Ifland bore N. 58 d. 30 m. E. diftant thirty leagues, and the main body of the land m light W. by N. A head fea prevented us from mak- ing much way to the fouthward ; at feven in the even- ing the extremes of the land ftretched from S. W. by S. to N. by W. and at fix leagues from the fliore we had thirty- ■« t CAPTAIN COOlC's FIRST VOYAGE. 357 thirty-two fathom water. At four o'clock tlie next morning, we flood ia for the ihore W. by S. and during a courfe of four leagues, our depth of water was from thirty -two to thirteen fathom. When it was thirteen fathom we were but three miles diflant from the (hore, and therefore ftood off; its dire£lioa is here nearly N. and S. The furface, to the diltance of about five milca from the fea, is low and flat ; but it then rifes into hills of aconliderable heiglit. It appeared to be totally bar-r ren, and we faw no ligns of its being inhabited. Out* lathude, at noon, was 44 d. 44 m. and the longitude which we made from Banks's iilanJ to this place was 2d. 22 m. VV. During the lafl twenty-four hours, though we carried as muc'i fail as the fliip would bear, we were driven three leagues to the leewariS. We continued to fland ofTand on all this day and the next, keeping at the diilancc of between four and twelve-' leagues from the (hore, and having water from thirty- live to fifty-three fathorn. On the 2 2d, at noon, we had no obfervation, but by the land judged ourfelves to be about thr^^; ieagues farther north than we had been the day before. At funrfet, the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up, we faw a mountain which rofe in a high peak, bearing N- Y/. by N. and at the fame time, we faw the land more diftin£kly than before, ex- tending from N. to S. W. by §. which, at fome diftance within the coaft, had a lofty and mountainous appear- ance. We foon found that the accounts which had been given us by the Indians in Queen Charlotte's Sound of the land to the fouthward were not true ; for they had told us that it might be circumnavigated in four days. On the 23d, having a hollow fwell froni the S. E. and expelling wind from the fame quarter, we kept plying between ieven and fifteen leagues from the fKore, hav- ing from feventy to forty-four fathom. At noon, our latitude by obfervation was 44 d. 40 m. S. and our lon- gitude from Banks's Ifland id. ,^ i m. W. From thi^ ^I^c to fix in the evening it was calm j but a light breeze 55t CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. then fprlnging up at E. N. E. we fleered S. S. K. all night, edging off from the land, the hollow fwell ftiil continuing ; our depth of water was from fixty to feven- ty-five fatnom. While we were becalmed, Mr Banks, being out in the boat, (hot two Port Egmcnt hens, which w^ere in every refpe£t the fame as thofe that are found in great numbers upon the ifland of Faro, and were the iirft of the kind we had feen upon this coall, though we fell in with fome a few days before we made hnd. At day-break, the wind frefliened, and before noon we had a ftrong gale at N. N. E. At eight in the morn- ing we faw the land extending as far as S. \V. by S. and fleered dire^ly. for it. At noon, we were in latitude 45 d. 22 m. S. and thcland, which now ftrctched from , S. W. f S. to N. N. W. appeared to be rudely diverli- fied by hill and valley. In the afternoon, we fteered S. W. by S. and S. W. edging in for the land with % frefh jp^le at north ; but though we were at no great diftance, the weather was fo hazy that we could fee nothing dif- linftly upon it, except a ridge of high hills lying not far from the fea, and parallel to the coaft, wKich in this place flretches S. by W. and N. by E. and i'eemed to end in a high bluff point to the fouthward. By eight in the evening we were abreaft of this point ; but it being then dark, and I not knowing which way the land trended, we brought to for the night. At this time, the point bore weft, and was diftant about ftve miles : our pepth of water was thirty^even fathom, and the bottprp pon? lifted of fmall pebbles. At day-break, having made fail, the point b6rc north, jdiftant three leagues, and we now found that the land trended irom it S. W. by W. as far as we could iee. This point I named Cape Saunders, in honour of Sir Charles. Our latitude was 4^ d. ^^ m. S. and lon- gitude 1 89 d. 4 m. W. By the latitude, and thp angles that are made by the coaft, this point will be fuflicicnily known ; there is however, alxjut three or four leagues to the foutli weft of it, and very near the fliore, a re- jnarkable CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. S5f markabic faddle-hill, which is a good diredion to it on. that quarter. From one league to four leaf^uea north oi' Cape Saunders, the fliore forms two or three bays, ia which there appeared to be good anchoraqe, and cHeo- tual (helter from the S, W. wefterly, and N. wefterly winds ; but my defirc of getting to the fouthward, in order to alcertain whether this country was an ifland or a continent, prevented my putting into any of them. We kept at a fmall dilbnce from tlve fhore all this morning, with the wind at S. W. and had a very di- ftind view it : it is of a moderate heiglit, and the fur- face is broken by many hills, wiiich are green and woody ; but we faw no appearance of inhabitants. At noon. Cape Saunders bore N. 30 \V. dlftant about four leagues. We had variable winds and calms till five o'j.lock in the evening, when it fixed at W. S. W. and foon blew fo hard tliat it put us paft our topfails, and fplit the forefail all to pieces : after getting another to the yard, we continued to fta«d to the fouthward un- der two courfes ; and at fix the next morning, the fouthernioft land in fight bore W. by N. and Cape Saunders N. by.W. diftant eight leagues: at noon it bore N. ^o W^. fourteen leagues ; and our latitude by ohfervition vyas 46 d. 36 m. The gale continued, witli heavy fqualls and a large hollow fea all the afternoon ; and at feven in the evening, we lay to under our fore- fail, with the fhip's head to the fouuiward : at noon ca the 27th our latitude was 46 d. 54. m. and our longi- tude from Cape Saunders i d. 24 m. E. At feven in the evening, we made fail under our courfes ; and at eight the next morning fet the topfails clofe reefed. At noon, our latitude was 47 d. 34 m. and our longitude eaft from Cape Saunders 2 d. 10 m. At this time, we wore and flood to the northward : in the afternoon, we found the variatbn to be 16 d. 34 m. E. At eigltt in the evening, we tacked and iiood to the fouthward, with the wind at weft. At noon on tiie ift of March, our latitude by ac- count was 47 d. 52 m. and our longitude frcm Cape Saunders \7. %, •v*^. ^^f^- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // 1.0 I.I I^|2j8 |25 |jo ■^" III^H 1^ IM 12.2 u liii us KS u 12.0 m 1.25 1.4 1.6 SSBS ■* 6" ► vQ / '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 1? ^Bil MAIN STRKT V^CBSTIR.N.Y. MSSO (7I6)S72-4S03 5^o CAPTAIN COOIC's FIRST VOYAGfi. Saunders i d. 8 m. E. We Hood to the foiithward till half an .hour paft three in the afternoon ; and then, be- ing in latitude 48 d. S. and longitude 1 88 d. W. and ' feeing no appearance of land, we tacked and ftood to the northward, liaving a large fwell from the S. W. by W. At noon the next day% our latitude was 46 a 42 m. S. and Cape Saunders bore N. 46 W. diftant cighty-fix miles. The fouth-weft fwell continuing till the 3d, confirmed our opinon, that there was no land in that quarter. At four in the afternoon, we ftood to the weftward with all the fail we could make* In the morninjj of the 4.th, we found the variation to be 16 d. 16 m. £. This day we faw foine whales and feais, as we had done fcveral times after our having pafled the ftreight ; but we faw no feal while we were upon the coaft of Eahienomauwc. We founded both in the night aq,d this morning, but had no ground with one hun- dred and fifty fathom. At noon we faw Cape Saun- ders bearing N. | W. and our latitude by obfervaiion was 46 d. 31 m. S. At half an hour paft one o'clock, we faw land bearing W. by S, which we fteered for, iid before it was dark were within three or four miles of it : during the whole night we faw fires upon it, and at feven in the morning were within about three leagues of the fhore, which appeared to be high, but level. At' three o'clock in the afternoon, we faw the land extending from N. E. by N. to N. W. \ N. and foon after we difcovered fome low land, which appear- ed like an ifland, bearing S. 4 W, We continued our courfe to the W. by S. and in two hours we law high land over the low land, extending to the fouthward as S. W. but it did not appear to be joined to the land to the northward, fo that there is either water, a deep bay, or low land between them. At noon on the 6th, we were nearly in the fame fitu- ation as at noon on the day before : in the afternoon we found the variation, by feveral azimuths and the aimplitude, to be- 15 d. 10 m. E. On the 7th at noon, we weie ia latitude 47 d. 6 m. S. and hs^d made twelve f^.^r/9 ( » ^z?j / CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. i6t miles eafting during the laft twenty-four hours. We ftood to the weftward the remainder of this day, and all the next till fun-fet, when the extremes of the land bore from N. by E. to W. diftant about feven or eight leagues : in this fituation opr depth of water was fifty- live fathom, and the variation, by amplitude, i6 d. 20 m. E. The wind now veered from the N. to the . \V. and as we had fine weather, and moonlight, we kept ftanding c!ofe upon the wind to the S. W. all night. At four in the morning, we had fixty fathom water ; and at day-light, we diicovered under our bov/ a ledge of rocks, extending from S. by W. to W. by S. upon which the fea broke very high : they were not more than three quarters of a mile diftant, yet we had five and forty fathom water. As the wind was at N. W. we could not now weather them, and as I was unwil- ling to run to leeward, I tacked and made a trip to the eaftward : the wind, however, foon after coming to the northward, enabled us to get clear of all. Our found- ings, v^rhile we were pawing within the ledge, were from thirty-five to forty- feven fathom, with a rocky bottom. , This ledge lies S. E. fix leagues from the fouthermoft part of the land, and S. E. byE. from fome remarkable hills which ftand near the fhore : about three leagues to the northward of it, there is another ledge which lie^ full three leagues from the fhore, and on which the fea broke in a dreadful furf. As we paiTed thefe rocks to the north in the night, and difcovered the others under our bow at break of day, it is manifeft that our danger was imminent, and our efcape critical in the higheft degree : from the fituation of thefe rocks, fo well adapt- ed to catch unwary ftrangers, I called them ihe Traps. Our latitude at noon was 47 d. 26 m. S. The land in iight, which had the appearance of an iifland, extended from N. E. by N. to N.; W. by \V. and fcemcd to be about five leagues diflant fronn the main; the ealjer-: mod ledge of rocks bore S. S. E. diftant one league an^l an half, and the riOrtbermoft N, E. i E. diftant abOuf Vol.!.— NO 10. jd Zz tlii-©? 362 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. Ci three leagues. This land is high and barren, with no- thing upon it but a few ftraggling llirubs, for not a iingle tree was to be Icen ; it was, however, remarkable for a number of white patches, which 1 took to be marble, as they refleft^id the fun's rays very ftrongly : other patches of the fame kind we had obferved in dit- ferent parts of this country, particularly in Mercury Bay : we continued to ftand clofe upon a wind to the weft ward, and at fun-fetthe fouthermoft point of land bore N. 38 E. diftant four leagues, and the weftermod land in iight bore N. 2 E. The point which lies in la- titude 47 d. 19 m. S. longitude 192 d. 12 m. \V. I named South Cape ; the weftermoft land was a fmall illand, Iving off the point of the main. Suppofmg South Cape to be the fouthern extremity of this country, as, indeed, it proved to be, I hoped to get round it by the weft, for a large hollow fwell from the fouth-w»eft, ever (ince our laft hard gale, had con- vinced me that there was no land in that diredion. In the night of Saturday the loth we had a hard gale at N. E. by N. and N. which brought us under our courfes, but about eight in the morning it became mo- derate ; and at noon, veering to the weft, we tacked and ftood to the northward, having no land in fight. Our latitude, by obfervation, was 47 d. 33 m. S. our longitude, wxft from the South Cape, ^9 m. We Aood aw^ay N. N. E. clofe upon a wind, without feeing any land, till two the next morning, when we dif^overed an ifland bearing N. W. by N. diftant about five leagues : about two hours afterwards we faw land ahead, upon which we tacked and ftood off" till fix, when we ftood hi to take a nearer view of it : at eleven we were with- in three leagues of it, but the wind feeming to incline upon the fhore, I tacked and ftood ofi^ to the fouth- ^ard. We had now failed round the land which w^e had dif- vcred on the 5th, and which then did not appear to I joined to the main which lay north of it ; and being now come to the other fide of what we fuppofed to be water, CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. Z^3 water, a bay, or low land, it had the fame appearance, but when I came to lay it down upon paper 1 law no reafon to fuppofe it to be an ifland ; on the contrary, I was clearly of opinion that it made part of the main. At noon, tne weuern extremity of the main bore N. ^o W. and the ifland which we had feen in the morning, S. 59 W. diftant about five leagues. It lies in latitude 46d. 31 m. S. longitude 192 d. 59 m. W. and is no- thing but a barren rock abou; a mile in circuit, remark- ably high, and lies full five" leagues diftant from the main. Tins ifland I named after Dr Solander, and cal- led it SoLANDER*s IsLAND. The fliore of the main lies neareft E, by S. and W. by N. and forms a large open bay, in which there is no appearance of any har- bour or fliclicr for fhipping againft S. W. and foutherly winds : the furface of the country is broken into craggy hills, of a great height, on tlie fummits of which are feveral patches of liiow : it is not, however, wholly bar- ren, for we could fee wood not only in the vallies, but upon the higheft ground, yet wq law no appearance of its being inhabited. We continued to ftand to the S. \V. by S. till eleven o'clock the next morning, when the wind fhifted to the S. W. by W. upon which we wore, and ftood to the N. N. W. being then in latitude zj.7 d, 40 m. S. longi- tude 193 d, CO m. W. and havmg a liollow fea from theS.W. During the night of the 13th, we fteered N. N. W. till fix in the morning, when, feeing no land, we fleer- ed N. by E. till eight, when we fteered N. E. by E. { E. to mike the land, which at ten we faw bearing £. N. E. but it being hazy, we could diftinguifti nothing upon \t At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 46 d* S. About two it cleared up, and the land appeared to be high, rude, and mountamous : about halfan hour after three I hauled in for a bayr, in which there appeared to be good anchorage ; but in about an hour, finding the^ diftance too great to run before it would be dark, ana tHe Z z 2 ^nd. # 3^4 CAPTAIK COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. i^rind blowing too hard to make the attempt fafe in the night, I bore away along the (hore. This bay, which I called Dusky Bay, lies in latitude 45 d. 47 m. S. it is between three and four miles broad kt the entrance, and Teems to be full as deep as it is broad : k contains feveral iflands, behind which there mud be Ihelter from all winds, though poffibly there may not be fufficient depth of water. The north point of this bay, when it bears S. E. by S. is rendered very remark- able by five high peaked rocks which lie off it, and have the appearance otthe four fingers and thumb of a man's hand, for which reafon I called it Point Five Fin- gers : the land of this Point is farther remarkable, for being the only level land within a confiderable diftance. It extends near two leagues to the northward, is lofty, and covered with wood : the land behind it is very dif- ferent, confiding wholly of mountains, totally barren and rocky ; and this difference gives the Cape the ap- pearance of an ifland. At fun-fet, the fouthermoft land in fight bore due fouth, diftant about five or fix leagues ; and as this is the weftermoft point of land upon the whole coaft I called it West Cape. It lies about three leagues to the fouth- ward of Dufky Bay, in the latitude ot 45 d. 5A m. S. and in the longitude of 1 93 d. 17 m. W. The land of this Cape is of a moderate neight next the fea, and has nothing remarkable about it, except a very white cliff, two or three leagues to the fbuthward of it : to the fouth- ward of it alfo the land trends away to the S. E. and to the northward it trends N. N. E. Having brought to for the night, we made fail along the (hore at four in the mornings in the direction of N. E. f N. with a moderate breeze at S. S. E. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 45 d. 13 m. S. At this time, being about a league and a half irom the fhora^ we founded, but had no ground with feventy fathom : we had juil paffed a finall narrow opening in land, where there feemed to be a very fafe and convenient harbour, formed by an ifland, which lay in the middle of CAPTAIN C00K*8 FIRST VOYAGE. 365 of the opening at eaft. The opening lies in latitude 45 d. 16 m. S. and on the land behind it are mountains, the fummits of which were covered with fnow, that ap- peared to have been recently fallen ; and indeed for two days paft we had found the weather very cold. On each iide the entrance of the opening, the land rifes almoft perpendicularly from the fea to a flupendous height, and this indeed was the reafon why 1 did not carry the (hip into it, for no wind could blow there but right in, or right out, in the diredion of either eaft or weft, and 1 thought it by no means adviiible to put into a place whence I could not have got out but with a wind which experience had taught me did not blow more than one day in a month. In this, however, I adcd contrary to the opinion of fome perfons on board, who in very ftrong terms exprefTcd their defire to har- bour for prefent convenience, without any regard to future difadvantages. In the evening, being about two leagues fro1m the fiiore, we founded, and had no ground with 1 08 fathom: the variation of the needle, by azimuth, was 14 d. E. and by amplitude 1 5 d. 2 m. We made the heft of our way along the (hore with what wind we had, keeping at the diftance of between two and three leagues. At noon, we were in latitude 44 d. 47 m. having run only twelve leagues upon a N. E. i N. coUrfe, during the laftf four and twenty hours. We continued to fteer along the (hore, in the direc- tion of N. E. ^ E. till iix o'clock in the evening, when we brought to for the night. At four in the morning, we ftood in for the land, and when the day broke we faw what appeared to be an inlet ; but upon a nearer ap- proach proved to be only a deep valley between two high lands: ^e proceeded therefore in the fame courfe, keeping the fliore at the diftance of between four and , five miles. At noon on the i6th, the northermoft point of land in fight bore N. 60 E. at the diftance often miles 5 aiul our 3^6 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. our latitude, by obfervation, was 44 d. 5 m. our longi- tude from Cape Weft 2 d. 8 m. E. About two we pafied the point which at noon had been diftant ten miles, and found it to confift of high red cliffs, down which there fell a cafcade of water in four fmall ftreams, and I tlierefore gave it the name of C A s c A D E Po i N r. From this point the land trends firft N. 76 E. and afterwards more to the northward. At the diftance of eight leagues from Cafcade Point, in the direction of E. N. E. and at a little diftance from (hore, lies a fmall low ifland, which bore from us S. by E. at the diftance of about a league and a half. At feven in the evening, we brought to, in thirty- tliree fathom with a fine fandy bottom ; at ten we had fifty fathom, and at twelve wore in lixty-five fathom, having driven fcveral miles N. N. W. after our having brougnt to. At two in the morning of the i ythjwe had no ground with 1 40 fathom, by which it appears that the foundings extend but a little way from the (liore. About this time it fell calm ; at eignt, a breeze fprung up at S. VV. with which we fleered along the (hore, in the diredion of N. E. by E. f E. at the diftance of about three leagues. At fix in evening, being about one league from the ftiore, we had feventeen fathom ; and at eight, being about three leagues from the (hore, we had forty- four : wt now (hortened fail and brought to, having run ten leagues N. E. by E. fmce noon. ' It was calm moft part of the night 5 but at ten in the morning of the i8th a light breeze fprung up at S. W. by W. when we made fail again alone the (hore, N. E. by N. having a large fwell From the W. S. W. which had rifen in the night ; at noon, our latitude, by obfer- >vatibn, was 43 d. 4 m. S. and our longitude from Cspe Weft 4 d. 12 m. E. We obferved, that the vallies as well as the mountains were this morning covered vvith fiiow, part of which we fuppofed to have fallen during the night, when we had ram. At fix in the evening we CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 3^7 we (hortened fail, and at ten brought to, at the diftance of about five leagues from the ihore, where we had 150 fathom. At midnight, there being little wind, we made fail, and at eight in the morning of the 19th, we flood to the N. E. clofe upon a wind till noon, when wc tacked, i>eing about three leagues from the land, and, by obfervation, in latitude ^2 d. 8 m. and longitude from Cape Weft, 5 d. 5 m. L. We continued to ftand weftward till two in the morning of the 20th when we made a trip to the eaft- ward, and afterwards ftood w^eftward till noon, when, by our reckoning, we were in the latitude of 42 d, 23 m. and longitude from Cape Weft: 3 d. S5 n^- K- ^e now tacked and ftood eaftward, with a freOi gale at N. by W. till fix in the evening, when the wind fhifted to the S. and S. S. W. with which we fteered N. E. by N. till fix in the morning of the 2 1 ft, when we hauled in E. by N. to make the land, which we faw foon after* waras; at noon, our latitude, by account, was 41 d. 17 m. and our longitude from Cape Weft 5 d. 42 m. E, We were now within three or four leagues of the land, but it being foggy, we could fee nothmg upon it diftindly, and as we had much wind, and a vaft fwell rolling in upon the Ihore, from the W. S. W. 1 did not think it fafe to go nearer. In the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze from theS. S. W. with which we fteered north along the ftiore tilt eight, when, being within between two and three leagues, we founded, and had but thirty-four fathom; upon which we hauled off N. W. by N. till eleven at night, and then brought to, having fixty-four fathom. At four in the nlorning of the 2 2d, we made fail to the N. E. with a light breeze at S. S. W. which at eight veered to the weftward, and foon after died away : at this time we were within three or four miles of the land, and had fifty-four fathom, with a large fwell from the W. S. W. rolling obliquely upon the ihore, which made me fear that I mould be obliged to anchor ; but by the $6$ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. the help of a light air now and then from the S. \V. I was able to keep the fliip from driving. At noon, the northermod land in fight bore N. E. by E. ij E. diftant about ten leagues ; our latitude, by account, was 40 d. £^ m. S. longitude from Gape Wdl 6 d. 35 m. E. From this time we had ligntairs from tlie fouthward, with intervals of calm, till noon on the 23d, when our latitude, by oblervation, was 40 d. \6 ra. 30 f. S. and our longitude from Cape Weft 6 d . 52 m. E. The caftermort point of land in fight bore E. i o N. at the diftance of feven leagues, and a bluff head or point, of •which we had been abreaft at noon the day before, and off which lay fome rocks above water, bore S. 1 8 \V. at the diftance of .fix leagues. This point I called Rock's Point. Our latitude was now 40 d. 55 m. S. and having nearly run down the whole of the north-weft coaft of Tovy Poenammoo, 1 iliali give fome account of the face of the country. I have already obferved, that on the i ith, when wc were off the fouthern part, the land then feen was crag>- gy and ntainous, and there is great reafon to be- lieve thai J fame ridge of mountains extends nearly the whole length of the iiland. Between the wefter- moft land which we faw that day, and the eaflermoil which we faw on the 13th, there is a fpace of about fix or eight' leagues, of which we did not fee the coaft, though we plainly difcovered the mountains inland. The fea coaft near Cape Weft is low, rifing with an eafy and gradual afcent to the foot of the mountains, and be- ing in moft parts covered with wood. From Point Five Fingers, down to latitude 44 d. 20 m. there is a narrow ridge of hills that rifes diredlly from the fea, and is cover- ed with woqd : clofe behind thefe hills are the moun- tains, extending in another rid^e of a ftupendous height, and confifting of rocks that are totally barren and naked, except where they are covered with fnow, which is to be feen in large patches upon many parts of them, and bas probably lua th^re ever iince the creation of the world: CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. 3^^^ worlJ : a profpcdl more rude, craggy, and defolatethaii this country affords from the fea, cannot polnbly be conceived, for as far inland as the eye can reach, no- thing appears but the fummits of rocks, which Hand fo near together, that, inftead of valHcs, there is only fif- furcs between them. From the latitude of 44 d. 20 m. to the latitude 01 42 d. 8 m. thcfc mountains lie fartheV inland, and the fea coaft conlifts of woody hills and vallies, of various height and extent, and has much ap- pearance of fertility; many of the vallies form plains of cf)nridera!)le extent, wholly covered with wood, but it is very probable that the ground, in many pLiccf, is fwampy and interfperfed with pools of water. From latitude 42 d. 8 m. to 41 d. 30 m. the land is not dillin- guiOicd Dy any thing remarkable : it rifes into hills di- rcdlly from the fea, and is covered with wood ; but the weather being foggy while we were upon this part of the coaft, we could fee very little inland, except now and then the fummits of the mountains, towering above the cloudy mills that obfcured them below, which con- firmed my, opinion that a chain of mountains extended from one end of the ifland to the other. In the afternoon, we had a gentle breeze at S. W. which, before it was quite dark, brought us abreaft of the eaftern point which we had feen at noon ; but not knowing what courfe the land took on the other fide cf it, we brought to in thirty-four fathom, at the diftanc6 of about one league from the Ihore. At eight in the evening, there being little wind, we filled and ftood on till midnight, and then we brought to till four in the morning of the 24th, when we again made fail, and at break of day we faw low land extending from the point to the S. S. E. as far as the eye could reach, the eallerri extremity of which appeared in round hillocks : by this time the gale had veered to the eaftward, which obliged us to ply to windward. At noon the next tlay, the eaftern point bore S. W. by S. diftant fixteen miles, and our latitude was 40 d. 19 m. the wind continuing cafterly we were nearly in the fame fituation at noon oa Vo!.l.-~N° 10. 3A the 370 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. the day following. About three o'clock the wind came to tlie weflwnrd, and we fleered E. S. E. with all the fail we could fet till it was dark, and then fliortcncd iail till the morni!ig of the 27th : as we had thick hazy weather all night, we kept founding contiiuially^and had from thirty-feven to fony-two fathom. "When the day broke we law land bearing S. E. by £. and an ifland ly- ing near it, bearing E. S. E. diflant about five leagues: this ifland I knew to he the fame that I had fecn from the entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound, from which it bears N. W. by N. diflant nine leagues. At noon, it bore fouth, diflant four or five miles, and the north-weft ' head of the found S. E. by S. diflant ten leagues and ^n hal£ Our • latitude, by obfervation, was 40 d. ^;^ m. S. As we had now circumnavigated the whole country, it became neceflary to think of cjuitting it, but as I had thirty tons of empty water cafks on board, this could not be done till I had hlled them : I therefore hauled round the ifland, and entered a bay, which lies between that and Queen Charlotte's Sound, leaving three more iflands, which lay clofe under the weflern (hore, be- tween three or four miles within the entrance, on our ilarboard hand ; while we were running in, we kept 'the lead continually going, and had trom forty to twelve fathom. At fix o'clock in the evening, we anchored in eleven fathom with a muddy bottom, under the wefl fhore, in tlie fecond cove, that lies within the three iflands ; and as foon as it was light the morning of the 28th, I took a boat, and went on fhore to look for a watering-place, and a proper birth for the fhip, both which 1 found, much to my fatisfadlion. As foon as the fhip was moor- ed, 1 fent an officer on (hore to fupeontend the water- ing, and the carpenter^ with his crew, to cut wood, while the long-boat was employed in landing the empty cafks. In this employment we were bufy till the 30th, when the wind feeming to fettle at S. £. and our water being nearly m) CAPTAIN COOK'S miST VOYAGE. 371 nearly compleatwd, wc warped the (hip out of the cove, that we might hf'Jve room to get imclcr lail : and at noon I went away in the pinnace to examine as much of the bay as my time would admit. After rowing about two leagues up it, 1 went afhorc upon a point of land on the weftern fide, and having climbed a hill, I faw the weftern arm of this bay nn in S. W. by W. about five leagues farther, yet I could not difcover the end of it : there appeared to be feveral other inlets , or at leaft fmall bays, between this and ihe north- weft head of Queen Charlotte's Sound, in each of which, 1 make no douEt, there is anchorage and fiielter, as tliey are all covered from the fea wind by the iflands whicli lie without them. The land about this bay, as far as I could fee of it, is of a hilly furface, chiefly covered with trees, flirubs, and fern, which render travelling difficult and fatijjuing. Jn this cxcurfion I was accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, who found feveral new plants. We met with fome huts, which feemed to have been long dei'erted, but faw no inhabitants. Mr Banks examined feveral of the flones that lay upon the beach, which were full of veins, and had a mineral appearance ; but he did not difcover any thing in them which he knew to be ore : if he had had an opportunity to examine any pf the bare rocks, perhaps he might have been more fortu- nate. He was alfo of opinion that what I had taken for marble in another place, was a mineral fubftance ; and that, confidering the correfpondence of latitude between this place and South America, it was not improbable but that, by a proper examination, fomething very valu- able might be found. At my return in the evening, I found all the wood and water on board, and the Ihip ready for the fea : I relblved therefore to quit the country, and return home by fuch a route as might be of moft advantage to the fervice ; and upon this fubjed took the opinion of my officer^. I had myfelf a ftrong defire to return by Cape 3 A 2 Horn, 372 CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. Horn, bccaufe that would have enabled me finally to determine, whether there is or is not a fouthem conti- nent; but againft thivS it was a fufficient objedlion that we muft have kept in a high fouthem latitude in the very depth of winter, with a veflel which was not thought fufficient for the undertaking : and the fame reafon was urged againft our proceeding diredlly for the Cape of Good Hope, with dill more force, becaufe no difcovery of moment could be hoped for in that route ; it was therefore refolved that we (hould return by the Eaft Indies, and that with this view we fhould, upon leaving the coaft, fteer weftward, till we (hould fall in with tlie eaft coaft of New Holland, and then follow the direction of that coaft to the northward, till we (hould arrive at its northern extremity ; but if that ihould be found impracticable, it was further refolved that we (hould endeavour to fall in with the land, or iflands, faid tp have been difcovered by Quiros. With this view, at break bf day on Saturday the 31ft of March 17 70, we got under fail, and put tofea, with the advantage of a frefh gale at S. E. and clear weather, taking our departure from the eaftern point, which we had ieen at noon on the 23d, and to which, on this oc^ cafion, I gave the name of Cape Farewell. The bay out of which we had juft failed I called Ad- miralty Bay, giving the name of Cape Stephens to the north- weft point, and of Cape Jackson to the foiith-eaft, after the two gentlemen who at this time were Secretaries to the Board. Admiralty Bav may eafily be known by the iftand that has been ju(t mentionea, which lies two miles N. E. of Cape Stephens, in latitude 40 d. 37 m. S. longitude 185 d. 6 m. W. and is of a confiderable height. Be- tween this iiland and Cape Farewell, which al-e between lAand 15 leagues diftant from each other,in the diredion or W. by N. and E. by S. the fliore forms a large deep bay, the bottom of which we could fcarcely fee while we were failiLg in a ftrsdt lin^ from one Cape to the other J CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 373 other ; it is, however, probably of lefs depth than it ap- peared to be, for as we found the water mallowcr here, than at the fame didance from any other part of die coaft, there isreafon to fuppofe, tnat the land, at the Ibottom which lies next the fea is low, and therefore not cafily to be diftinguiftied from it. IJiave for this reafon called it Blind Bay, and am of opinion that it is the fame which was called Murderer's Bay by Tafman. Such particulars of this country and its inhabitants, with their manners and cuftoms, as could be learnt while we were circumnavigating the coj^, fhall now he rdat^. 374 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE, J^ general Account of Ncia Zealand : its firjl Difcovery^ Situation^ Extintf Climatey and Produ^lions, NEW ZEALAND was firft difcovered by Abel 7*anl'en TaCman, a Dutch navigator, whofe name has been feveral times mentioned in this narrative, on the 1 3th of December, in the year 1 642. He traverfed the eaftern coaft from latitude 34 d. to 43d. and entered the ftreight which divides the two illands, and is called Cook's Streight ; but being attacked by the natives foon after he came to an anchor, in the place to which he gave the name of Murderer's Bay, he never went on ihore. He gave the country the name of Staaten Land, or the land of the States, in honour of the States General, and it is now generally diftinguifived in our maps and charts by the narpe of New ZfiAtAND. As the whole of this country, except that part of the coaft which was feen by Tafman from on board his fhip, has from his time, to the voy?ge of the Endeavour, re- mained altogether unknown, it has by mapy becnfup-i pofcd to be part of the fouthern continent, it is, how- ever, now known to confift of two large iflands, divided from each other by a ftreight or paffage, which is about four or five leagues broad. Thefe ifiands are fituated between the latitudes of 34 d. and 48 d. S. andbetween the longitudes of 1 81 d. find 194 d. W. which is now determined with uncom- mon exadnefs, from innumerable pbfervations of the fun and nioon, and one of the tranfits of Mercury, b]r| Air Green, a perfon of known abilities, who, as haJ , been obferved before, was fent out by the Royal So- ciety, to obferve the traniit of Venus in the South jSeas. The northermoft of tbefe iflands is called by the na- tiveii CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. tii tlves Eaheinomauwe, and the fouthermoft Tovy, or Tavai Poenammoo ; yet, as I have obfervcd before, we are not Aire whether tne name Tovy Poenammoo com- prehends the whole foiithern ifland, or only part of it. Tovy Poenammoo is for the mod part a mountain- ous, and, to all aj)pearance, a barren country; and the people whom we faw in Queen Charlotte's Sound, tliole that came ofFto us under tKe fnowy mountains, and the fires to the weft of Cape Saunders, were ail the inhabi- tants, and figns of inhabitants, that we dlfcovered upon the whole ifland. Eaheinomauwe has a much better appearance ; it is indeed not only hilly but mountainous, yet even iht hills and mountains are covered with wood, and every valley has a rivulet of water : the foil in thefe valjies, and in the plains, of which there are many that are not overgrown with wood, is in general light but fertile, and, in the opinion of Mr Banks and Dr Solander, as well as of every other gentleman on board, every kind of European grain, plants, and fruit, would flourifli herein the utmoft luxuriance : from the vegetables that we found here, there is reafon to conclude, that the winters are milder than thofe in England, and we found the fummcr not hotter, though it was more equally warm ; fo that if this country Ihould be fettled by peo- ple from Europe, they would, with a little induflry, l)e very foon fupplied not only whh the necefi'arics, but the luxuries of life in great abundance. In this country there are no quadrupeds but dogs and rats, at leaft we faw no other, and the rats are fo fcarce that many of us never faw them. The dogs live with the people, who breed them for no other purpofe than to eat : there might, indeed, be quadrupeds that we did not fee, but this is not probable, becaufe the chief pride of the natives, with refpe(^ to their drefs, is in the ll^ins and hair of fuch animals as they have, and we never faw the fkin of any animal about them but thofe pf dogs and birds : there are, indeed, feals upon the coaft, and we once faw a fea lion, but.we imagine they are feldom caught, 37<5 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. caught, for, though we faw fome of their teeth, which were fafhioned into an ornament like a hodkin, and worn by the natives at their breaft, and highly valued, we faw none of their Ikins : there are whales alfo upon this coaft, and, though the people did not appear to have any art or inflrument by which fuch an animal could be taken and killed, we faw Pattoo-pattoos in tlie pof- feffion of fome of them, which were made of the ijonc of a whale^ or of fome other animal whofe bone had ex« adly the fame appearance. Of birds the fpecies are not many ; and of thefd none, except perhaps the gannet, is the fame with thofe of Europe : here are ducks indeed, and (hags of feveral kinds, fufficiendy refembling thofe of Europe, to be . called the fame, by thofe who have not examined them very nicely. Here are alfo hawks, owls, and quails, which differ but little from thofe of Europe at firft light ; and feveral fmall birds, whofe fong, as has been re- marked in the courfe of the narrative, is much more melodious than any that we had ever heard. The fea coaft is alfo vifited by many oceanic birds, particularly albatroffes, (heiprwaters, pintados, and a few of the birds which Sir John Narborough has called Pen- guins, and which indeed are what the French call Nuance^ and feem to be a middle fpecies between bird and lifh ; for their feathers, efpecially thofe upon their wings, dif- fer very litde from Icales ; and their wings themfelves, which they ufe only in diving, and not to accelerate their motion even upon the furface of the water, may, perhaps with e^ril propriety be called fins. Neither are infers in greater plenty than birds : a few butterflies and beetles, flelh flies, very like thofe in Europe, and fome mufquitos and fand flies, perhaps cxadly the fame with thofe of North America, make up the whole catalogue. Of mufquitos and fand flies, however, which are juftly accounted the curfe of every country where they abound, we did not fee many; there were, indeed, a few in almoft every place where we went on fliore, but they gave us fo little trouble, that CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 377 that we did not make nfe of the (hades which we had provided for the fecurity of our faces. For this Ibiivcity of animals upon the land, the fea, however, makes an a|:>undant recompence ; every creek fwarming with fiib, wi'ich are not only wholefome, hat equally delicious with thofe of Euro^je: the fhip iildom anchored in any ftation, or wiih a light gale pafled any place, that did not afford us enough with hook and line to ferve the whole fliip's company, efpe- cially to the fouthward : when we lay at iinchor, the hoats, with hook and line, near the rocks, could take filh in any quantity j and the feine feldom failed of pro- curing a Hill more ample fupply ; fo that both times when we anchored in Cook's Streight, ever^*^ mefs in the lliip, that was not carelefs and improvident, falted as much as lafted many weeks after they went to fea. Of this article, the variety was equal to the plenty ; we had mackrel of many kinds, among which, one was exact- ly the lame as we have in England : thefe came in im- menfe Ihoals, and were taken by the natives in their femes, who fold them to us at a very eafy rate. I3e- lides thefe, there were lifli of many fpecies which we had never fcen before, but to all which the feamen very* readily gave names ; fo that we talked here as familiar- ly of li.ikcs, bream, colehfli, and many others, as we do in England ; and though they are by no means of the fame family, it muft be confefTed that they do honour to the name. But the higheft luxury which the fea af- forded us, even in this place, was the lobfter or iea (Tray-fifh, which are probably the fame that in the ac- count of Lord Anfon's Voyage are faid to have been found at the ifland of Juan Fernandes, except that, al- though large they are not quite equal in lize : they dif- fer from ours in England in leveral particularvS, they have a greater number of prickles on their backs, and they are red when firft taken out of the waxtw Thefe we aHb bought every where to the northward in great quantities of the natives, who catch them by diving near the (hore, and finding out where they Ue with their .Vol. I.— N*> 10. ■ 3 B ' feet.. 3;8 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. \ feet. We hail alfo a fifli that Frczier, in his Voyage to the Spanifli Main in South America, has defcribed by the names of EUfant Pcjegallo^ or Poifcn ccq^ which though coarfe, we eat very heartily. Several ipecies of the ikate, or fting-ray, are alfo found here, which were ilillcoarfer than the Elefant ; but, as an atonement, we had among many kinds of dog-lifh one fpotted with white, which was in flavour exad:ly fimilar to oi^- bed fknte, but much more delicious.. We had alfo flat fifh refembling both foles and flounders, bcfides eels and confers of various kinds, with many others of which thoie who Ihall hereafter vlfit this coaft will not fail to find the advantage ; and fliell-lirti in great variety, par- ticularly clams, cockle? and oyftcrs. Among the vegetable productions of this country, the trees claim a principal place; for here are forefts of vail extent, full of the ftraitcft,. the cleaneft, and the largell timber trees that we had ever feen ; their fize, their grain, and apparent durability, render them fit for any kind of building, and, indeed, for every other pur^ofe cxcci)t malls ; for which, as I have already obterved, they are too hard and too heavy : there is one in particular which, when we were upon the coaft, was rendered confpicu- ous by a fcarlet flower, that feemed to be a conipen- dage of many fibres ; it is about as large as an oak, and the wood is exceedingly hard and heavy, and excellent- ly adapted to the ufe or the mill- wright. There is an- other which grows in the fwamps, remarkably tall and (Irait, thick enough to make mails for veflels of any fize, and, if a judgment may be formed by the direc- tion of its grain, very tough : this, which, as has been before remarked, our carpenter i bought to refemble the pitch-pine, may probably be lightened by tapping, and It will then make the tineft marts in the world : it has a leaf not unlike a yew, and bears berries in fmall bunches. ^ Great part of the country is covered with a luxuri- ant verdure, and our natural hiftorians were gratified by the novelty, if not the variety of the plants. Sow- thiftlc, •iv. CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 37S> thiftle, garden night-fliadc, one or two kinds of grafs, the fame as in England, and two or three kinds of fern, like thofe of the Weft Indies with a fSw plants that are to be found in almoft every part of the world, were all, ^ out of about four hundred Ipecies, that have hitherto been defcribed by any botanlfts, or had been feen elle- where during tlie courle of this voyap^e, except about five or fix which had been gathered at Terra del Fuego: Of eatable vegetables there are but few ; our people, indeed, who had been long at fea, eat, with equal plea- fureand advantage, of wild celery, and a kind of cref- fcs, which grew in great abundance upon all parts of the fea-lhore. We alfo, once or twice, met with a plant like what the country people in England call Lambs quarters^ or Fat-hen, which we boiled inftead of greens ; and once we had the good fortune to find a cabbage tree, which afforded us a delicious meal ; and, except the fern- root, and one other vegetable, totally unknown in Europe, and which, though eaten by the natives, was extremely difagreeable to us, we found no other vegetable produdion that was fit for food, among thofe tliat appeared to be the wild produce of the country ; and we could find but three elbulent plants among thofe which are raifed by cultivation, yams, fweet potatoes, and coccos. Of the yams and potatoes there are planta- tions confifting of many acres, and 1 believe that any fhip which fhould happen to be here in the autumn, when they are dug up, might purchafe them in any quan- tity. Gourds are alfo cultivated by the natives of this place, the fruit of which furnilhes them with vcifcls for vari- ous ufes. We alfo found here the Chinefe paper mul- berry tree, the fame as that of which the inhabitants of the South Sea illands make their cloth ; but it is fo • fcarce, that, though the New Z^ahnders alfo make their - cloth. of it, they have not enough for any other pur- pofe than to wear as an ornament in the holes which they make iri their ears, as 1 have obfervcd before. 13ut amoi^g all the trees, fhrubs, and plants of this . * / 3 I^ 2 couu- 38o CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. i country, there is not one that produces fruity except a berry which has neitlicr 1 weetnefs nor fiavour,and which none hut the boys took pains to gather, ihould be ho- noured with that appellation. There is, however, a plant that fervcs the inhabitants inftead of hemp and flax, which excels all that are put to the fame purnofe* in othei countries. Of this plant there are tv^o forts ; the leaves of both refemble thofe of flags, but the flowers are fmaller, and their clufters more numerous ; in one kind they are yellow, and in the other a deep red. Of the leaves of thefe plants, w^ith very little pre- paration, they make all their common apparel j and of thefe they make alfo their ftrings, lines, and cordage for every purpofe, which are fo much ftronger than ahy thing we can make with hemp, that they will iK)t bear a comparifon. From the fame plant, by another pre- paration, they draw long flender fibres which fhine like lilk, and are as white as fnow : of thefe, which are alfo furprifingly ftrong, the finer clothes are made ; and of the leaves, without any other preparation than fpUtting them into proper breadths, and tying the ftripes to- gether, they make their fiftiing nets ; fome of which, as 1 have before remarked, are of an enormous fize. A plant, which with fuch advantage might be applied to fo many ufeful and important purpofes, would cer- tainly be a great acquifition to PIngland, where it would probably thrive with very little trouble, as it feems to be hardy, and to affect no particular fojl ; being found equally in hill and valley ; in the drieft mould, and the deepeft bogs : the bog, nowever, it feems rather to pre- fer, as near fuch places we obierved it to be larger than elfewhere. I have already obferved, that we found great plenty of iron fand in Mercury Bay, and therefore that iron ore is undoubtedly to be founa at no great diftance. As tp other metals we had fcarcely knowledge enough of the country for conjedlure. If the fettling of this country ihould ever be thought an obje^ worthy the attention of Great Britain, the bell ., plac^fc \\ I CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 38T lace for eflabli(Tilng a cdlony would be either on the anks of the Thames, or in the country bordering upon tl\e Bay of I^ands. In either place there would be the advantage of an excellent harbour ; and, by means of the river, fettlements might be extended, and a commilni- cation eftabliHied with the inland parts of the country : veflels might be built of the fine timber which abounds in thefe parts, at very little trouble and expence, fit for fiich a navigation as would anfwer the purpofe. I can- not, indeed, exadly affign the depth of water which a veflel intended to navigate this river, even as far up as I went with the boat, fliould draw, bccaufe this depends upon the depth of water that is upon the bar, or flats, which lie before the narrow part of the river, for I had no opportunity to make myfelf acquainted with. them ; but I am of opinion, that a veffel which (hould draw not more than twelve feet would peife from the guilt of the fad, than its natural ef!*ecrately kill, even to procure much greater advantage. But there is the Arongcft reafon to believe, that thofe who have been fo' accuflomed to prepare a human body for a meal, that they can with as little feeling cut up a dead man, as our cook-maids divide a dead rabbit for a fricaffee, would feel as little horror in commiting axxiurder as in picking a pocket, and confequently would take away life with as little compundtion as property ; fo that men, under ihefc circuinflances, would be made murderers by the fliglft temptatioDS that now make them thieves. If any matr ■!* doubts ( »e eaten or CArrAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 385 doubts whether this rcafoning is concluiive, let him a(k himfelf, whether in his owa opinion he fliould not be fafcr with a man in whom the horror of deilroyixig 4itc is (Irong, whether in conlequcncc of natural inftindt un- fuhdutd, or of early prejudice, which has nearly an equal Influence ; than in the power of a man who under any temptation to murder him would be reftraincd only by conliderations of intcrell ; for to thelt aU motives of mere duty may be redus:cd, as they mud tefaiinate either in hope of good, or fear of evil, The fituation and dircumftances, however, of thcfe poor people, as well as their temper, arc favCwraUle to thofe who feall fettle as a colony among them. Their litaation fets them in need of protedion, and thw tem- per renders it eafy to attach them by kindnefe ; and what- ever may be faid m favour of a favage Ufe, among people who live in kixurious idlcncft upon the bounty of Na- ture, civilization would certainly be a bleffmg to thofc whom her parfimony fcarcely furnilhts with the bread of life, and who are perpetually dellroying each ■ ' . . • i CAPTAIN COait's FIRST VOYAGE. 387 1 have already obferved, that in perfonal cleanlinefs thev are not quite equal to our friends at Otaheite ; be- caufe, not having the advantage of fo warm a climate, they do not fo often go into the water ; but the mcft difguftful thing about them is the oil, with which, like the Iflanders, they anoint their hair: it is certainly the fat either of fifh or birds, melted down, and though the better fort have it frelh, their inferiors ufe that which i? rancid, and confequently are almoft as diiligreeable to the fmell, as a Hottentot ; neither are their heads free from vermin, though we obferved that they were fur- nhhed with combs,both of bone and wood : thefe combs are fometimes \70rn ftuck upright in the hair as an or- nament, a fafhion which at preient prevails among the ladies of England. The men generally wear their beards flibrt, and their hair tied upon the crown of the head in a bunch, in which they ftick the feathers of various birds, in different manners, according to their fancies ; fometimes one is placed on each frde of the temples, pointing forwards, which we thought made a very dif- agreeable appearance. The women wear their hair fometimes cropped fhort, and fometimes florving ovev their fhoulders. The bodies of both fexes are marked with the black flains called Amoco, by the fame metuod ths^t is ufed at Otaheite, and called Tattowing ; but the men are more marked, and the women lefs. The women in general ftain no part of their bodies but the lips, though fome- times they are marked with fmall black patches on other parts : the men, on tiie contrary, feem to add fompthing ever)' year to the ornaments of the la ft, fa that fome of them, who appeared to be of an advanced age, were almoft covered from head to foot. - Befides the Amoco, they have marks impreffed by a method unknown to us> of a very extraordinary kind : they are furrows of about a line deep, and a line broad, fuch as appear upon the bark of a tree which has been cut through, after a year's growth : the edges of thefe furrows are afterwards in-. * 3 C 2 dented =.%*.. ^aa CAPTAIN COOK'S flRST VOVAGE. dented by the fame method, and being perfedly blacky they make a mail frightful appearance. The faces of the old men are almoft covered with thefe marks; thofe who are very young, black only their lips like the women ; when tney are ibmewhat older, they have generally a black patch upon one cheek, and over one eye, ar^d to proceed gradually, that they may grow old and honourable together: but though we GQuld not but be difgufled with the horrid deformity which thefe ftains and fiurows produced in the *^ human face divine," we could not but admire the dexterity and art with which they were impreiTed. The marks upon i\\t face in general are fpiral, which are drawn with great nicety, and even elegance, thofe on one fide ex-i adly correfponding V/ith thofe on the other ; the raarka on the body fomewhat refemble the foliage in old- chafed ornaments, and the convolutions pr fillagree Y^ork ; but in thefe they have fuch a luxuriance of fan- cy, that of an hundred, which at itrft fight appeared to becxat^ly the fame, no two were, upon a cjofe ex-r amination, found to he alike,. We obferTcd, that the tjuantjty.and.&rm of thefe marks were different in dif- ferent parts of the coaft, and that as the principal feat of them at Qtaheite was the breech, in New Zealand, it- was fomeitimes the only part which was free, and in general was lefs diftinguilhed than any otlier. * The ikins of thefe people, however, arc not only dyed, but painted, for as I have before obfeived, they ime^ir their bodies with red oker, fome rubbing it on dry, ^nd (bme applying it in lar^e patches mixad with oil, which is always wet, and which the lead touch will rub off, fo that tlie tranfgrefiions of fuch of our people- as were guilty of ravifhing a kifs from theft blooming l^eautles^ were moft legibly written upon their faces. • The drefs of a New Zealander is certwiilyvto a ftranger at firfl fmht, the mod uncouth that oan he imagined. it is made of the leaves of the fkg, which has been do* fcribed amoi^g the vegetable produdUons of this coun- ,■;'.■ try; a;,; CAPTAIN COORDS FIHST VOYAQi:. '^ try : thefe leaves are fplit into three or four flips, and the flips, when they are clry, interwoven with each other into a kind of uqflTbet ween netting and cloth, with all the ends, which are eight or nine inches long, hang- ing out on the upper iule, like the ^fliag or thrumb Hiatts, which we lometimes fee lying in a pafiag^. Of this cloth, if cloth it may be called^ two pieces lo've for a complete drefs ; one of them is tied over their fhoul-' ders with a luring, and reaches as low as the kneea } to the ^nd of this ftping is faftened a bodkin pf hone, which is eaftly paiTpd through any two parts of this up- per garment, fo as to facie them together 5 the ether piece is wrapped round the waift, and reaches iiearly to the ground : the lov^r garifient, however, is warn by the men only upon particular pecafions j but they wear a belt, to which a ftring is fattened, for a very (ingulap ufe. The inhabitants of the South Sea iflands flit up tlie prepuce fo as to prevent it from covering the glatia ©f the penis, but thefe people, On th^ eontrarY, bring the prepuce over the glans, and, to prevent it Irom l^ing drawu back by the contra<^iou oi the part, they tm the ftring which hangs frpm the girdi^, round the end of it* The glat>s, indeeij, feemed to be the only part of theii? body whi^h they were ibliciiQus to ?^nceal, for they frequently threw off all thfU' i^t^s but thq belf ana ftring, with the moft carelefs indiffcrenqe, but fheweA manifeft figns of confulion, when, to gratify 'Our cu-? riofity they were r^queftcd to untie the ftring, an4 never contented without the utmoft relu^ance an4 ihamc. When they have only their upper garment on^ and fit upon their hams, they bear fome refemblance to a thatched houfe ; but this covering, though it h ugly, is well adapted to the ufe of thofe who frequently fleep in the open air, without any other flielt^r from the Tjiin. Bvt befid^ this qoarfe (hag or thatch, they have tw© forts of cloth, which have an even furface, and are very mgcnioufljr made, ia fb^ fani^ mmf^ with that msh ou&dt«re4 Im 570 CAt'TAlN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. niifaitiired by the inhabitants of South America, fom^ of which we procured at Rio de Janeiro. One fort is as coarfe as our coarfeft canvas, and fomewhat refcm- Wes it in the manner of laying the threads, but it is ten times as ftrong : the other is formed by many threads lying very dole one way, and a few crofling them the other, fo as to bind them together ; but thefe are about half an inch afunder, fomewhat like the round pieces of cane matting which arc fometimes placed under the di{hes upon a table. This is frequently ftriped, nand always had a j>retty appearance, for it is compofed 6fthe fibres oftheiame plant, which are prepared fo as to ihinelike filk. It is made in a kind of frame of the fize of the cloth, generally about five feet long, and four broad, acrbfs which the long threads, which lie dofe together, or warp, are ftaincd, and the crofs threads, or woof, arc worked in by hand, which muft be a very tedious operation. To both thefe kinds of cloth they work borders of different colours, in ftitches, fomewhat like carpeting, or rather like thofc ufed in the famplars which girls \70Tk at fchool. Thefe borders are ot various patterns, and wrought with a ncatnefs, and even an elegance, which, confidering they have no needle, is furprizing : byt the great pride of their drefs confirts in the fur of their dogs, which they ufc with fudi occonomy that they cut it into ftripes, and few them upon their cloth lit a diftance from each other, which is a ftrong proof that dogs are not plenty among them ; thefe ftripes are alfo of different colours, and difpofed fo as to produce a pleafing effeft. We faw fome drefles that were a- domed with feathers inftead of fur, but thefe were not common ; and we faw one that was intirely covered with the red feathers of the parrot. The drefs of the man who was killed, when we firft went afhore in Poverty Bay, has been delcribed already j hut we faw the fame drels only once more during our ftay upon th« coaft, and that was iri Queen Charlotte's The CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 2'JK Tlie women, contrary to thecuftom of the fex in general, Teemed to afFed drefs rather lei's than the men : their hair, which, as 1 have obferved before, is general- ly cropt Ihort, is never tied upon the top of the head when it is fufiered to, be long, nor is it ever adorned with feathers. Their garments were made of the fame materials, and in the lame form, as thofe of the other iex, but the lower one was always bound fad round them, except when they went into the water to catch lobfters, and then tliey took great caie not to be feen# by the men. Some oi us happening one day to land upon a fmall illand in Tolaga my, we furprized feve- ral of them at this employment ; and the chafte Diana, with her nymphs, could not have difcovered more con- fuiioa and diltrefs at the fight of Adxon, than thefe women expreffed upon our approach. Some of them hid themfelves among the roclcs, and the reft crouche$i down in the fea till (hey had made themfelves a girdis and apron of fuch weeds as they could hnd, and wheu they came out, even with this veil, we could i)€rceive that their modelly fufitred much pain by our prelencc:. The girdle and apron which they wear in common j Ixave been mentioned befoi*e. Both fexes bore their ears, and by ftretching tlif ni the holes become large enough to ^dmit a linger at leall. In thefe holes they wear ornaments of various kindij cloth, feathers, bones of large birds, and even lomc-r times a ftick of wood ; and to thelij receptacles of fine-* ry they generally applied the naiU which we gave; them, and every thing which it was poffible they could contain. The women fomctimes^thrull through thcni the dovyn of the albatrofs, which is as white as fnow, and which, i'preading before and behind the hole in u bunch almplt as big as the fift, makes a very lingulaiv and, however ftrange it may be thought, not a dii'agree- able appearance. 13efides the ornaments that are tliruit through the holes of the ears, many others arc tuipend- ed to them by (brings ; (uch as chilJels oi* bodkins mad^ of I .-'I V: 592 CAPTAIN GOOK»s fIRST VOYAGE. of grteti talc, ilpon which they fet a high vahie, the Jiaile and teeth of their deceased relations, the teeth of dogs, and every thing elfe that they can get, which they think either curious or valuable* The women allb wear bracelets and anelets, made of the bones of birds, (hells, or any Other fubllances which they ciin perforate and ftring u^on a thread. The men had fometimcs hang«t. ing to a ftring, which went round the neck, a piece of green talc, or whalebonfe, fomewbat in thefhape of a tongue, with the rude figure of a man carved upon it ; And upon this omanient they fet a high value. In one inftance, we faw the griftles that divides the noftrils, and called by znatorni&s^ the /eptum rn^i^ perforated, and a feather thruft through the whole, which projeded on ^ach fide over the cheeks : it is probable that this fri^ht-^ ful fmguiafity was intended as an ornament, but ot the many peojJle v»e faw, we never obferved it in any cither^ iK>r even a perforation that might occafionally ferve for fuch a purpofe. Their houfes are the teoft inattificially made of any thing among them> being fcarcely equal, exce{>t in iize^ to an Engliin dog-kennel t they are feldom more than eighteen or twenty feet loftg* eight or ten broad, and five or fix high, firom the pole that runs from one end to the oAer, and forms the ridge, to the ground : the fil- ming is of wood, generally flenderfticks^ and both walls and ro6f confill of dry grafs and hay, which, it muft be confefledi is very tightly put together j aftd fome are alfo lined with the Inirkof^ trees, fo that in cold wea^ ther they muft afford a very-comfortable retreat. The roof is floping, like thofe of our barns, and the door is at one end, juft high enough to admit a man creeping tipon his hands and knees : hear the door is a fquare hole, which ferves the double ofHee of witidow and chimney, for the fire^plaeeis at that end, nearly in tJie mif^'*'? between the two fides: in fome ••J/V^ > »xcs* V*- ♦i.*'i JT and ^'■■•i' i^'j^ . UM^iMMI^ with one of them foranv ve'i 1, <)dte offered one of the belt W-: iijdes a number of qthq: things ii^wner ^ould not fell it ; from I ^E^^od ones are fcarcb- among thenik 11)^ {in jA^I^^ jalper, whkih are uled in £imihmg their nice1l;^Qrk, they ufe till t^sr^^xQ blunt, atid then, as they have >>o means of {ha||^ing them, ti th^w them away. We h;*d given the pe are, our oMervations left us no room tD doubt ; belides, while an enr^ny fliould be prowling in the ncighhourhocd, it v,roul(i he eafy to fnatch a iupply of vrater from the iide of the hill, though it would be im-' poliible to dig up fern root or catch fifh« hi this diftrid, however, the people feemed to live in ' 2 ? of donfcious fecurity, and to avail themfelves of th«^'ii rivantage : their plantations were more numerous, then* canoes were more decorated, and they had not only finer carving, but finer clothes. This part of the coaft alio was much the moft populous, and polTibly their apparent peace and plenty might arife from tbcip being united under one Chief or King ; for the inhalji^ lants of all this part of the country told us, that they were the fubjeds of Teratu : when they pointed to the T^udcnce of this prince, it was in a dircdion which we 3 E 2 . thought 4<>4 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. thought inland ; but which, when we knew the coun^ try better, we found to be the Bay of Plenty. It is much to be regretted that we were obliged to leave this country without knowing any thing of Tera- tu but his name. As an Indian monarch, his territory IS certainly extenfive : he was acknowledged from Cape Kidnappers to the northward, and weft ward as far as the Bay of Plenty, a length of coaft upwards of eighty leagues ; and we do not yet know how much farther weftward his dominions inay extend. Poflibly the fortified towns which we faw in the Bay of Plenty may be his barrier ; efpecially as at Mercury Bay he was not acknr 'vledged, nor, indeed, any other fmgle Chief; 'for wh. er we landed, or fpoke with the people upon thai oaft, they told us tjij^t yre w^re at out a fraall diftance from their enemies. In che dominions of Tcratu we faw feveral fubordi- nate Chiefs, to whom great refpedt w^as paid, and by whom juftice was probably adminiftered ; for upon our complamt to one ot them, of a theft that had been com- mitted on board the ihip by a man that can^.e with him, he gave him feveral blows and kicks, which the other received as the chaftifement of authority, againft which no refiftance was to be made, and which he had no right to refent. Whether this authority w^s pofTelTed by appointment or inheritance we could not learn ; but we obferved that the Chiefs, ?i8 well here as in other parts, were elderly men. In other parts, however, we learnt that they pofleffed their authority by inhenT tance. The little focieties which we found in the fouthern parts feemed to have feveral things in common, parti- cularly their fine clothes and fifliing nets. Their fine clothes, which poflibly might be the Ypoils of war, were kept in^ fmall hut, which was ere(3:ed for that purpofe in the middle of the town : the nets we faw maicin^ in almoft every houfe, and the feveral parts being after- wards collefted, were joined together. Lefs account f^cipiS to te made of the women {lere than in the South Sea CAPTAIN COOK'S TIRSt VOYAGE. 40J Sea iflands ; fucU at lead was the opinion of Tupia, who complained of it as an indignity to the fex. Wc obferved that the two fexes eat together j but how they divide their labour we do nor certainly know. I am in- clined to believe, that the men till the ground, make nets, catc. birds, and go out in their boats to iifti ; and that the women dig up fern roots, collect lobftcrs and other (hell fifli near the beach, drefs the viduals, and weave cloth: fuch at Ifcaft were their employments when we had an opportunity of obferving them, which was but feldom ; for in general oof^pearance rnade a holiday where- ever we went, men,women and children, flocking round us, either to gratify their curiorit)r, or to purchafe fom€ of the valuaole mcrchairdize which we carried about with us, confifting principally of nails, paper, and broken ^lafs. Of the religion ot thefe people it cannot be fuppofed that we could learn much ; they acknowledge the in- fluence of fuperior beings, one of whom is fupreme, and the reft fubordinate ; and gave nearly the fame account of the origin of the world, and the production of man- kind, as our friends in Otaheite : Tupia, however, feemed to Have a much more deep and extenfive know- ledge of thefe fubjeffcs than any of the people here ; and whenever he was difpofed to inftrud them, which he fometimes did in a long difcourfc^ he was fure of a nu- merous audience, who liftened m profound filence, with fuch reverence and attention, that we could not but wi(h them a better teacher. What homage they pay to the deities they acknow- ledge we could not learn : but we faw no place of pub- lic worftiip, like the Morals of the South Sea iflands : yet we faw, near a plantation of fweet potatoes, a fmall area, of a fquare figure, furrounded with ftones, in the middle of which one of the iharpened ftakes which they ufe as a fpade was fet up, and upon it was hung a baflcet of fern roots : upon enquiry, the natives told us, that it \ya3 an offering to- the gods, by which the owner 4o5 CAPTAIN COOK'6 FIRST VOYAGE. owner hoped to render them prcpitious, and obtain a plentiful crop. As to their manner of difpofing of their dead, we could form no certain opinion of it, for the accounts ihat we received by no means agreed. In the northern parts, they told us that they buried them in the ground ; and in the fouthern, that they threw them into the fca : it is, however, certain that we faw no grave in the coun- try, and that they affeded to conceal every thing rela- ting to their dead with a kind of myfterious fecrecy. But whatever may be the fepulchre, the living are them- felves the monuments; for we faw fcarcely.a fmglc perfon of either fex whofe body was not marked by the fears of wounds which they had inflided upon themfelves as a.teftimony of their regret for the lofs of a relation or friend : fome of thefe wounds we faw in a Hate fo recent that the blood was fcarcely ftaunched, which fiiows that death had been among them while we were upon the coaft ; and makes it more extraordina- ry that no funeral ceremony fhould have failed under our notice : fome of the fears were very large and deep, and, in many inftanccs had greatly disfigured the face. One monument, indeed, we obferved of another kind, the crols that was fet up near Queen Charlotte's Sound. Having now given the beft account in my power of the cuftoms and opinions of the inhabitants of New Zealand, with their boats, nets, furniture, and drefs, I iliall only remark, that the limilltude between thefe par- ticulars here and in the South Sea iflands is a very ftrong proof that the inhabitants have the fame origin; and that the common anceftors of both, were natives of the fame country. They have both a tradition that their anceftors, at a very remqtc period of time, came from another country ; and, according to the tradition of both, that the name of that country was Heawije ; but the fimilitude of the language feems tq put the matter al- together put of doubt, i have pilfer ved, that Tupia, when CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 4*7 when lie accoftcd the people here in the language of his own country, was perfedtly underllood ; and I (hall give a fpccimen of the fimilitude by a lift of words in both languages, according to the dialed of the northera and Ibuthern illandy of which New Zealand confift^ by which it will appear that the langiuge of Otaheitc does not differ more from that of New Zealand, tlian the language of the two iflands from cdch.other. English. J Chief * A man A woman T/)e bead The half The ear The forehead The eyes The cheeks The nofe Ihe mouth The chin The a. m The finger TJye belly The navel Come hither Fiji) A lobfter Coecos Sweet potatoes Tarns Birds JV* Ofte Two Three Four Five New Zealand. North em. Southern, Earectc Eareete Trtata Taata Whakine Whahine Eupo Heaowpoho Macauwe Heoo-oo Tcrringa Hetaheyei Erai Heai Mata FIcmata Paparinga HepapaeK Ahewh Heeih Hangoutou Hegaowai Ecouwai Hakaoewai Haringarlngii ' - t ••■•<> ) Maticara Hermaigawh Ateraboo Apeto Heeapeto Haromai Htiromai Heica Heica . Kooura Kooura Taro Taro Cumala Cumata Tuphwhc Tuphwhc M^nnu ' » Mannu Kaoura Kaoura Tahai Rua Torou ^ Ha Rema •■ " ■■ • • . .. Ota«£xte, EaTce Taata ivahine Eupo Roourou Terrca Er.u Mau Paparea Ahcw Outou Rema Mancovr ' ObcMli :.'T 1 Peto ■ '. Harromai '^'; . Eyea , . , , .. , ; looura,^. I , Taro '■ ^ Cumala Tuphwhc Mannu Oure tahai Rua Torou Hca *^ -RcnHi - »> 4o8 CAPTAIN COOJC's FIRST VOXAOE. Si» Seven Ei^ht Nine Ten The teeth The 'Wind A thief To examine To fitfs Tre'S Gt'ahdfafher What do you call this or that . Ono . Ono Etu Hetu W^rou Warou Iva Ileva Angaliourou Ahourou Heniiihew Uencaho Nihio Mehow Mattai Amootoo Teto Matakctake # Mataitai £heara Heiva Keno Krno Eno Eratou Eratou Eraou Toubouna Toubouna Toubouna Owy Terra Owy Terra . By this fpecimeti, \ think, It appears to demonftra- tion that the language of New Zealand and Otaheite is radically the fame. The language of the northern and fbuthern parts of New Zealand differs chiefly in the pro- nuncii»tion, as the fame Englilh word is pronounced laie in Middlefex, and geate in Yorklhire : and as the iouthern and northern words were not written down by the fame perfoii, one might poiiibJy ufe more letters to produce the fame found than the other. I muft alfo obferve, that it is the genius of the lan- guage, efpecially in the fouthern parts, to put fome ar- ticle before a noun, as we do the or a; the articles ufcd here were generally /^f'Or ko: it is alfo common here to add th€ word oeia after another word, as an iteration, efpecially if it is an anfwer to a queflion ; as we hy yes indeed^ to befurCy realhfy certainly : this Ibmetimes led our gentlemen into the tbrmation of words of an enormous kngth, judging by the ear only, without being able to refer each found into its iignification. An example will inake this perfedtly underftood. . In the Bay of Iflands there is a reniarkable one, called by the oauvfs Matu ar,o. One of our gentlemen having ■¥.^ CAPTAII^ COOK'S FIR3T VOYAGE. 40^ having alked a nativfi the name oHt, he anfwercd with the particle, Kematuaro ; the gentleman hearing the founc! imperfectly, repeated his queftion, and the Indian repeating his anlwer, added ceia, which made the word Kematuaroocia ; and thus it happened that in the log book 1 found AJatuaro transformed into Cumcttiwarro- ivcia : and the fame transformation, by the fame means, might happen to an Englilh word. Suppofe a native of New Zealand at Hackney church, td enquire " what village is this ?" the anfwer would be^ " it is Hackney in- deed,** and the New Zealander, if he had the ufe of let- ters, vwould probably record, for the information of hi$ countrymen, that, during his refidence among us, he had vifited a village called " Ityfliaitneeindede." The article ufed by the inhabitants of the South Sea iflands, fiillead di he or ko^ is to or ta^ but the word oeia is com- mon to both ; r.nd when we began to learn the lan- guage, it led us into many ridiculous midakes. But fuppufmg thefe iflandS) and thofe in the South Seas to have been peopled originally from the fame country, it will, perhaps, for ever remain a doubt vyhac country that is-: we were, however, unanimoufly of opinion, that the people did not come from America, which lies to the eaftward ; and except there (hould ap- f)ear to be a continent to the fouthward, in a moderate dtitude, it will follow that tliey came from the weft- ward.* Thus far our navigation has certainly^ been unfavour- able to the notion of a fouthern continent, for it has fwept away at leafl three-fourths of the pofitions upon which it has been founded. The principal navigators, whofe authority has been urged on this occafion, are Tafman, Juan Fernandes, Hermile, the commander of a Dutch fquadron, Quiros, and Eoggewcin; and the track of the Endeavour has demonftrated that the land feen by thefe perfons, and fuppofed to be part of a con- tinent, is not fo; it hasalfo totally fubverted the the- oretical arguments which have been brought to prove that the exiftencc of a fouthern continent is.ncce(Iary to Vol. I.^ -N» 1 1. ' 3F prcferyc #i6 CAPTAIN COOK^s FIRST VOYAGE. prcferve an equilibrium between the two hemifpheres ; for upon this principle what we liave akeady proved to be water, would render the fouthern hemifphere too light. In our route to the northward, after doubling Cape Horn, when we were in the latitude of 40 d. our longitude was nod. and in our return to the fouth- warj, after leaving Ulietea, when we were again in la- titude 40 d. our longitude was 145 d. the difference'is .3 j: d. When we were in latitude 30 d. the difference ol longitude between the two tracks was 21 d. which continued till we were as low as 20 d. but a tingle view of the chart will convey a better idea of this than the moft minute defcription : yet as upon a view of the chart it will appear that there is a large fpace extending quite to the '^''. opics, which neither we, nor any other navigators to our knowledge have explored, and as there will appear to be room eriough for the Cape of a fouth- ern continent to extend northward into a low fouthern latitude, I (hall give my reafons for believing there is no Cape, of any fouthern continent, to the northward of 40 d. fouth. Notwithftanding what has been laid down by fomc geographers in their map3, and alledged by Mr Dairy m- ple, with refpeft to Q^iros, it is improbable in the high- ell degree that he faw to the Ibuthward of two illands, which he difcovered in latitude 25 or 26, and which I fuppofe may lie between the longitude of 1 30 d. and I AG d. W. any figns of a continent, much Ms any thing which, in his opinion, was a known or indubitable tign of fuch land ; for if he had, he would certainly have fail- ed fouth ward in fearch of it, and if he had fought, fup- poting the tigns to have been indubitable, he muil have found : the difcovery of a fouthern coniinent was the ultimaf 3 obje^ of Quiro's voyage, and no man appears to hav^ had[ it more at heart ; fo that if he was in latitude 26 d. S. and in longitude 146 d. W. where Mr Dairy m- ple has placed the illands he difcovered, it may fairly be inferred that no part of a fouthern continent extends to that latitude. It CAPTAIN COOK'a FIRST VOYAGE. 411 It will, I think, appear with eq\ia] evidence from tlie accounts of Roggewein's voyage, that between the lon- gitudes of 130 d. and I56d. W. there is no main land to the northward of 35 d. S. Mr Pingre, in a treatife concerning the tranfit of Venus, which he went out to obferve, has inferted an extract of Roggcwein's voyage, and a map of the South Seas ; and for reafons which may be feen at large in his work, fuppofes him, after leaving Eafter Ifland, which he places m latitude 28 i S, longitude 123 d. W. to have fteered S. W. as high as 34 d. S. and afterwards W. N, W. and if this was indeed his route, the proof thkt there is no main land to the northward of 35 d. S. is irrefragable. Mr Dalrym- pie, indeed, fuppoles his route to have been different, and that from Eafter Ifle he fteered N. W. taking a courfe afterwards very little different from that of La Maire ; but, I think, it is highly improbable that a man, who, at his own requeft, was fent to difcover a fouthern continent, fliould take a courfe in which La Maire had already proved no continent could be found : it muft, however, be confefTed, that Roggewein's track cannot certainly be afcertained, becaufe m the accounts that have been publifhed of his voyage, neither longitudes nor latitudes are mentioned. As to myfclf I faw no^ thing that I thought a fign of land, in my route either to the northward, louthward, or weflward, till a few daya before I made the eaft coafl of New Zealand : I did, in- deed, frequently fee large flocks of birds, but they were generally fuch as are found at a very remote diftance from any coaft ; and it is alfo true that I frequendy faw * pieces of rock-weed, but I could not infer the vicinity of land from thefe, becaufe 1 have been informed, upon indubitable authority, that a confiderable quantity of the beans called ox-eyes^ which arc known to grow no where but in the Weft Indies, are every year thrown up on the coaft of Ireland, which is not lefs than twelve hundred leagues diftant. Thus have I given my reafons for thinking that there k no continent to the northward of latitude 40 d. S. of 3 F 2 what 412' CAPTAIN COOK'S tlKST VOYAGK. v/haX may lie farther to the fouthward than 40 d. I can give no opinion ; but 1 am fo far from wiihing to dif- courage any future attempt, 6nally to determine a quef- tion which has long been an objcdt of attention to many nations, that now this voyage has reduced the only pol- fible fcite of a continent in the fouthern hemii'phere, north of latitude 40 d. to fo fmall a i'pace, I think it 'would be pity to leave that any longer unexamined, efpecially as the voyage may turn to good account, be- fides determining the principal queftion, if no conti- nent fhould be found, by the oifcovery of the new Eflands in the Tropical regions, of which there is proba- bly a great number, that no European veffel has ever yet viiTted. Tupia, from time to tin^ie, gave us an ac- count of about one hundred and thirty, and in a chart, iiraiyn by his own hand, he actually laid down no lefs than fcventy-four. • * r-^ CAPTAIN COOK'« FIRST VOYAGE. 41J The Run from New Zealand U Botany Riy^ on ih Eq/i Coa/l of New Holland^ now called New South Wales ; various Incidents that happened there ; imihfome Account of the Country 0nd its Inhabitants^ HAVING failed from Cape Farewell, which lies In latitude 40 d. ^3 m. S. longitude 186 d. W. on Saturday the 3 1 ft of March, 1 770, we fleered weft ward, with a frefti i^ale at N. N. E, ^nd at noon on the 2d of April, our latitude, by obfervation, was 40 d. our lon- gitude from Cape Farewell 2 d. 3 1 m. W. In the mormng of the 9th, Ixjipg in latitude 38 d. 29 m. S. we faw a tropic bird^ which in fo high a lati-» tude is very uncommon. In the morninc of the loth, being in latitude 38 A 51 m. S. longitude 202 d. 43 m. W. we found the va- riation, by the amplitude, to pe 1 1 d. 25 m. £. and, by the azimuth, II d* 20 m. In the morning of the I ith, the variation was 13 d. 48 m. which is two degrees and an half more than th^ day before, though I expe&ed to have found it lefs. In the courfe of the 13th, being in latitude 39 di 113 m. S. longitude 204 d. ? ''^1. W. I found the varia* tibn to be 12 d. 27 m. E. ?ind in the mc»iiingof the 14th, it was 1 1 d. 36 m, this day we alfo faw fome fly^ ing fifti. On the J 5th, we faw an egg biyd and a gan- net, and as thefe are birds that never go far from thd land, we continued to found all night, but had no ground with 130 £ithom. At noon on the i6th, we were ih latitude 39 d^ 45 m. S. longitude 268 d. W. At about two o'clock, t&e wind came about to the W. S. W. upoii yfU^ we tacked and fteod to the N. W, foon after a 4T4 CAl^TAIN COdK\ FIRSt VdYAGE. fmall land-bird perched upon the rigging, but we had no ground with 1 20 fathom. At eight we wore and ftood to the fouthward till twelve at night, and then wore and ftood to the N. ^, till four in the morning, when we agaiA ftood to the fouthward, having a frerfi gale at W. S. W. vuth fqualls and dark weather till nine, w^l'.en tlie weather became clear, and there being little %vind, we had an opportunity to take feveral obferva- tions of the fun and moon, the mean refult of which gave 207 d. ^6 m, \V. longitude : our latitude at noon was 39 d. 36 ni. S. We had now a hard gale from the foutHwardj and a great fea from the fame quarter, which obliged, us to run under our fore-fail and mizen all night, during which we founded every two hours, but had no ground with 1 20 fathom. In the mornirg of the j 6th, we faw two Port Eg* monl hens, and a Pintado bird, which arc certain ligns of approaching lanxl, and, indeed, by our reckoning, we could not be far from it, for our longitude was now one degree to the weftward of the eaft fide of Van Die- men's land, according to the longitude laid down by Tafman, whom we could not fuppofe to have erred much in fo fhort a run as from this land to New Zear land, and by our latitude we could not be ^bove fifty or fifty-five leagues from the place whence he took his de» parture. All this day W(b had fre<^aetjt fqualte and a great fwell. At pne in the morning of the iQth,we brought to and founded, but had no ground vfith i to fathom ; at fix we faw land extending from N. E. to W. at the diftancc of five or fix leagues, having eighty fathom water with a fine fandy bottom. We continued ftanding weftward, with the t^^ind at S. S. W. till eight, when we made all the fail we eould, and bore away along the (hore N. E. for the eaftirmoft land in fight, bdng at this time in latitude 37 d. 5S itt. 3. and longitude 210 d. 39 ^« W^ The iduthermoft i)oint of land in fight, vvhich bore from u« W. f S. I udged to lie in Mtude 38 d» longitude 2 1 1 d« 7 m. and gave CAPTAIN COOK'S FIR^T VOYAGE. 41^ gave it the name of Point Hicks, becaufe Mr Hicks^ the Firft Lieutenant, was the tirft who difcovered it* To the fouthward of this Point no land was to be feen, though it was very clear in that quarter, and by our longitude, compared with that of Tafman, not as it is laid down in the printed charts, but in the extrads from Tafman's journal, publifhed by Rembrantfe, the body of Van Diemen's land ought to have borne due fouth ; and, indeed, from the fudden falling of the fea after the wind abated, I had reafon to think it did ; yet as I did not fee it, and as I found this coaft trend N. F. and S. W» or rather more to the eaftward, I cannot determine- whether it joins to Van Diemen's land or not. At noon, we were in latitude 37 d. 50 m. longitude 2 10 d. 20 m. W. The extreems of tKe land extended from N. W. to E. N. E. and a remarkable point bore' N. 20 E. at the diilance of about four leagues. This point rifes in a round hillock, very much refembling the Ram Head at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, and therefore I called it by the fame name. The variation^ by an azimuth, taken this morning, was 3 d. 7 m. K. and what we had now feen of the land appeared low and level : the fea fhore was a white fand, but the coun- try within was green atid woody. About one o'clock we faw three water fpouts at once ; two were between us and the (hore, and the third at ibme diilance, upon our larboard quarter: this phaenomenon is fo well known, that it is not neceflary to give a particular de- fcription of it here. At fix o'clock in the evening, we Ihortened fail, and brought to for the night, having fifty- (ix fathom water, and a fine fandy bottom. The north crmoll land in fight then bore N. by E. | E. and a iniall ifland lying clofe to a point on the main, bore W. diitant two leagues. This point, which 1 called Gape HowJi, may be known by the trending of the coaft, which is north on the one fide, and fouth- weft on the other ; it may alio be known by fome round hills upon the main, juft with-. iniu We 4^6 CAPTAIN cock's FlRSt VOYAGE. We brought to for the night, and at four in the morn^ xng of the 20th, made fail along Ihorc to the northward. At fix, this northefmoft land in fight bore N. N. AV. and we were at this time about four leagues from the (bore. At noon we were in latitude 36 d. 51m. S. longitude 209 d. §;^ m. W. and about three leagues diiiant from the (hore. The weather being clear, gave tis a good view of the country* which has a very plea- flag appearance : it is of a moderate height, diverfitied by hills and valHes^ ridges and plains^ interfperi'ed with a few lawns of no great extent, but, in general, coveted v/ith wood : the afcent of the hills and ridges is gende; and the fummits are not high. . We continued to fail along the fhore to th^ north- ward, with a fouthcrly wind, and in tlie afternoon we faw fmoke in feveral places, by which we knew the country to be inhabited. At fix in the evening, we ihortened fail, and founded: we found forty^four fa- thom water, with a clear fandy bottom, and flood on under an eafy iail till twelve, when we brought to for the night, and had ninety fathom water. At four in the morning of the 2 id, we made fail a- gain, at the diuance of about five leagues from the land, and at fix, we were abreaft of a high mountain* lying. near the ihore, w^hich, on account of its figure, I called Mount Dromedary : under this mountain the fhore forms a point, to which I gave the name of Point Dromedary, and over it there is a peakejl hillock. At this time, being }n latitude -^Gd. 18 m. S. longitude 209 d. ^^ m. W. we found the variation to be I o d. 42 m. E. Between ten and eleven, MrGreen and I took feveral pbfervations of the fun and moon^ the mean lefult of which gave 209 d. 17 m. longitude W. By an obfer- vation made the day before, our longitude was 210 d. 9 m. W. from whicn, 20 m. being fubtra^ed, there re- mains 209 d. 49 m. the longitude of the (hip this day at noon, the mean of which, with this day's obfcrva- Uon, gives 209 d. 33 m. by which I fix the longitude CI I^APTAIN COOK** FIRST VOYAGE. 417 oFthis coaft. At noon, our latitude was ^s d. 49 m. S. Cape Dromedary bore S. 30 W. at the diftance of twelve leagues, and an open bay, in which were three or four fmall ifla^ds, bore N. W. by W. at the diftance of five or fix leagues. This bay feemed to afford but little (helter from the fea winds, and yet it is the only place where there appeared a probability of finding an- chorage upon the whole coafl. We continued to fleer along the fhore N. by E. and N. N. E. at the diftance of about three leagues and faw fmoke in many places near the beach. At five in the evening, we were abreaft of a point of land which rofe in a perpendicular cliff, and which, for that reafon, I called roiNT Upright. Our latitude was 3c d. 35 m. S. when this point bore from us due weft, diltant about two leagues : in this fitU9tion we had about thirty- cat fathom water with a fandy bottom. At fix in the evening, the wind falling, we hauled oft* £. N. £. and at this time the northermoft land in fight bore N.' by E. 1 E. At midnipht, being in fevcnry fathom water, we brought to nil four in the morning of the 2 2d, when we made fail in for the land ; bur >t day break, found oi!r fituation nearly the fame as ii I been at five the evening before, by which it was apparetit that we had been driven about three leagues to tlic Ibuthward, by a tide or current, during the night. After this we fteered along the fnore N. N. E. with a gentle breeze at S. W. and were fo near the land as to didin- guifli feverai of the natives upon the beach, who ap- peared to be of a black, or very dark colour. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, w the top of which looks hkc ih^ crown of « 3 G a hat 4»ft CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. bat. In the afternoon of this day, we had a lif^t breeze at N. N. W. till five in the evening, when it fell calm : at thb time we were between three and four leagues from the (hore, and had forty-eight fathom water: the variation, by azimuth, was 8 d. 48 m. £. and the extremities of this land were from N. £. by N. to S. W. by S. Uefore it was dark, we faw fmoke in ieveral places along the (hore, and a fire two or three times after\vards. During the night we lay becalmed, driving in before the fea tm one in the morning c^ the 26th, when we fot a breeze from the land, with which we fleered N. .. being, then in thirty-eight fathom. At noon, it veer- ed N. £l by N. and we were then in latitude 34 d, 10 m. S. longitude 208 d. 27 m. W. the land was ^ diftant about nvc leagues, and extended from S. 37 W. to N. f £. In this latitude, there are fome white cliffs, which rife perpendicularly from the fea to a confider- able height. We ftood off the fhore till two o'clock, and then tacked and flood in till fi:', when we were within four or five miles of it, and at that diflance had fifty fathom water. The extremities of the land bore from S. 28 W. to N. 2 ? d. 30 E^ We now tacked and liood off till twelve, then tacked iuid ftood in again till four in the morning of the 27th, when we made a trip off till daylight ; and during all this time we loft ground, owing to the yariableneis of the vrinds. We continued at the diftance of between four and five miles fiiom the fhore, till the afternoon, when we came within two miles, and ( then hoifted out the pinnace and yawl to attempt a landing, but the pinnace proved to be fo leaky, that I was obliged to noift her in again. At this time we faw feveral of the natives walking brifkly along the fliore, four of whom carried a fmall canoe upon their ihoulders : we flattered ourfelves that they were going to put her into the wa- ter, and come off to the mip,but nnding ourfelves dif- apjpoiflted^ I determined to go on fhore in the yawl, with as many as it would carry ; 1 embarked, tliere^ fore, CAPTAIN COOK'f 1 . ST VOYAGE. 4»t fore, with only Mr Banks, Dr Solander, Tupia, and four rowers : we pulled for that ^art of the fhore where the Indians appeared, near w^ch four fmall canoea were lying at the water's edge. The Indians fat down ' upon the rocks, and feemed to wait for our landing.; but to our great regret, when we cam§ within about a Quarter of a mile, they ran away into the woods : we etermined, however, to go alhore, and endeavour to procure an interview, but in this we were again difap- pointed , for we found fo great a furf beating upon every part of the beach, that landing with our little boat was altogether impradticable: we were therefore obliged to be content with gazing at fuch obje^s as prefented themfelves from the water: the canoes, upon a near view, feemed very much to refemblethofe of . the fmall- er fort at New Zealand. We obferved, that among the trees on fhore, which were not very large, there was no underwood; and could diftinguifh that many of them were of the palm kind, and (oi^t of them cab- bage trees : after many a wifhful look we were obliged to return, with our curiofity rather excited than fatis- fied, and about five in the evening got on board the (hip* About this time it fell calm, and our fituation was by no means agreeable : we were now not more than a mile and a half from the fhore, and within fome break- ers, which lay to the fouthward ; but happily a light breeze came off the land, and carried us out oi danger. With this freeze we flood to the northward, and at day-break on the 28th, we difcovered a bay, which feemed to be well fheltered from all winds, apd into which, therefore, I determined to go with the fhip. The pinnace being repaired, I fent her with the mafter to found the entrance, while I kept turning up, having the wind right out. At noon, the mouth of the bay bore N. N. W. diftant about a mile, and feeing a fmoke on the fhore, we di- reaed our glafTes to the fpot, and foon difcovered ten people, who, upon our nearer approadi, left their fire, aad retired to a little eminence, whence they could con- veniently 4it CA^AIN COOR*f FIR8T VOYAGE. tetilently obfbnre our motions. Soon after two ca- fidtSf each having two men on board, came to the fli6ire ju(i under the emlnencei and the men joined the ttft on the top of it. The pinnace, which had been Ibnt ahead to found, nOw approached the place, upon which all the Indians retired rarther up the liill, except 6fte, who hid himfelf among fome rocks near the land^ ing*p!ace. As the pinnace proceeded along the fliore, i&oft of the people took the mme route, and kept abreaft tf her hi a diftance ; when ihe came back, tne maAer told us, that in a cove, a little within the harbour, fome of them had come down to the beach, and invited him to land, by many figns and words of whiph he knew Hot the meaning ; but that all of them were armed with long pikes, and a wooden weapon, (haped fomewliat like a cimeter. The Indians who had not followed the boat, feeing the ihip approach,, ufed many threatening ^ftures, and brandiihed their weapons; particularly two^ who made a very lingular appearance, for their faces feemed to have been dufted with a white powder, and their bodies painted with broad ftreaks of tne fame colour, which pailing obliquely over their breads and backs, looked not unlike the crofs-belts worn by our ^^Idiers ; the fame kind of (IreaL vere alfo drawn round their legs and thighs like broad garters : each of theie men held in his hand the weapon that had been de- icribed to us as like a cimeter, which appeared to be about two feet and an half long, and they (eemed to talk to each other with great eameilnefs, Wc continued to ftand into the bay, and early. in the ifternoon anchored under the fouth (hore, ^bout two miles within the entrance, in (fx fathom water, the fouth point bearing S. £. and the north point £aft. As we came in we law. on both points df the bay, a few huts, and feveral of tne natives, men, women, and children. Under the fouth head we faw four fmall canoes, with { each one man on board, who were very bufily employ- ed in ftrikin^ filh with a long pike or ipear : they ven- tured ahnoft into the furf, and were fo intent upon <^hat they CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGi;. 4^3 th«y were doing, that although the (hip psifled wkhm «» quarter of a mile of them, they fcarcely tu vncd iht ir cyct towards her j poflibly being deafened by the fvjrf, and their attention wholly fixed upon their bufinefs, o? fportu they neither faw nor heard her go pad them. The place where the fliip had anchored was abreaft of a tmail village, confiftin^ of about fix or eight houfes; and while we were prepanng to hoift out the boat, we (aw an old woman^ followed by three children, conte out of the wood ; (he was loaded with fire-wood, and each of the children had alfo its little burden : when (ho came to the houfes three more children, younger than the others, came out to meet her : (he often looked at the (hip) but expreffed neither fear nor furprize : in a (hort time (he kindled a fire, and the four canoes came in from fifhing. The men landed, and having hauled up their boats, began to drefs their dinner, to all appear^ ance wholly unconcerned about us» though we wer^ within half a mite of them. We thought it remarkab^t that of all the people we had yet feen, not one had t|ie lead appearance ot clothing, the old woman herfelf bcinft deftitute even of a fig-leat After dinner the boats were manned, and we fet out fi"om the (liip, having Tupia of our party. We intend* led to land where we faw the people, and began tQ hope; that as they had fo little regarded the fliip's coming intQ the bay, they would as little regard our coming on £ore : in this, however, we were diiappointed ; fpr as foon a% Iwe approached the rocks, two of the meii came dqwi^ [upon them to difpute our landing, and the reflt ran away. li|ach of the two champions was armed with a lanc^ ibout ten feet long, and a (hort Rick which h^ feeing to handle as if it was a machine to affift hinik in manag*» ing or throwing the lance : they called to us ia a very 'oud tone, and in a har(h diffooant language, of VBhichi wither we nor Tupia underftood a finglc wordi : they »randi(hed their weapons^ and k^ttitd refolved tQ i^ md their coa(t to the uttennofl, thpngh they were It two, and we were fgrty. 1 <;o\jl4 W^ but admir^ their 424 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. their courage, and beinor very unwilling that hoflilicies Ihould commence with luch inequijality of force between U8, I ordered the boat to tie upon her oars : we then parlied by (igns for about a quarter of an hour, and to befpeak tbeir good-will, I threw them nails, beads, and other trifles, which they took up and Teemed to be well pleafed with. I then made fign;; that I wanted water, and, by all the means that I could devife, endeavoured to convince them that we would do them no harm : they now waved to us, and 1 was willing to interpret it as an invitation ; but upon our putting the boat in, they came again to oppofe us. One appeared to be a youth about nineteen or twenty, and the other a man of middle age : as I had now no other refource I fired a mufquet between thern. Upon the report, the young- eft dropped a bundle of lances upon the rock, but recol- ledting bimfelf in ah inftant he Inatched them up agaia with great hade : a ilone was then thrown at us, upon which I ordered a mufquet to be fired with fmali ihot, which flruck the eldeft upon the legs, and he immediate- ly ran to one of the houfes, which was diftant about an hundred yards : I now hoped that our conteft wA^;t>^er, and we immediately landed ; but we had icas^v left the boat when he returned, and we then perceived that he had left the rock only to fetch a fhield or target for his defence. As foon as he came up, he threw a lance at us, and his comrade another; they fell where we ftood thickeft,Jbut happily hurt nobody. A third muf- quet with fmall (hot was then fired at them, upon which one of them threw anotlier lance, and both imme- diately ran away : if we had purfued, wc might probably have taken one of them ; but Mr Banks fuggefting that the lances might be poifoned, I thought it not prudent to venture into the woods. We repaired immediately to the huts, in one of which wc found the children, who! had hidden themfelves behind a (hield and fome barkif wc peeped at them, but left them in their retreat, with- out their knowing that they had been difcovered, aQ(ij wc threw into the houfc when wc went away fomel • • ' beads CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 42; beads, ribbons, pieces of cloth, and other prefents, which we hoped would procure us the good-will of the inhabitants when they (hould return ; but the lances which we found lying about, we took away with us, to the number of about fifty : they were from fix to fif- teen feet long, and all of tnem had. four prongs, in the manner of ahOi-gig, each of which was pointed with filh-bone, and very fharp : we obferved that they were fmeared with a vifcous fubftance of a green colour, which favoured the opinion of their being poifoned, though we afterwards difcovered that it was a miflake : they appeared, by the fea-weed that we found flicking to them, to have been ufed in flriking fifh. Upon ex- amining the canoes that lay upon the beach, we found them to be the worft we had ever feen: they were between twelve and fourteen feet long, and made of the bark of a tree in one piece, which was drawn together and tied up at each end, the middle being kept open by flicks which were placed acrofs them from gunwale to gunwale as thwarts. We then fearched for irefh water, but found none, except in a fmall hole which had been dug in the fand. Having reimbarked in our boat, we depofited our lances on ooard the fhip, and then went over to the north point of the bay, where we had feen feveral of the in- habitants when we were entering it, but which we now- found totally deferted. Here, however, we found frefh water, which trickled down from the top of the rocks, and flood in pools among the hollows at the bottom j but it was fituated fo as not to be procured for our ufe Vtithout difficulty. In the morning of the 29th, therefore, I fent a party of men to that part of the more where we firft landed, vfith orders to di^ holes in the fand where the water might gather ; but going afhore myfelf with the gentle- men foon afterwards, we found, upon a more diligent fearch, a fmall flream, more than fufficient for our pur- pofc. Upon viTiting theiiut where we had fcen the chil- :lVq1. I.-N* II. 3H dren» 42& CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. dren, wc were greatly mortified to find that the beads' and ribbons which we had left there the night before^ V had not been moved from their places, and that. not an.!? | Indian was to be feen. , Having fent fome empty water-caflcs on (bore, and left a party of men to cut wood, I went myfelf in the. pinnace to founds and examine the bay; during my cxcurfiond 1 law fevcral of the natives, but they all fled at my approach. In one of the places where I landed 1 fourd icveral fmall fires, and frefh. mufcles broiling upontfiem ; he^e alio I found fome of the largeft oyflcr- Ibel^^ J hadeverfecn. As foon as the wooders and wafercrs came on board- to dinner, .ten or twelve of the natives came down to . the place, and looked with great attention and curiofity at the calks, but did not touch them : they took away«. liowever, the canoes which by near the landing place, and again dilappeared. In the afternoon, when our people were again alhore, fixteen or eighteen Indians, all armed, came boldly within about an hundred yards > of them, and then flopped : two of them advanced ■ fomewhat nearer ; and Mr Hicks, who commanded the . party on (liore, with another, advanced to meet them, hol'.ling out prefents to them as he approached, and ex* preffing kindnef Our CAPTAIN C00K*8 FIRST VOYAGE. '^ty Our people went afhore as ufual, and with them Mr I i Banks and Dr Solander, wlio, in learcli of plants, re- l^f paired to the woods. Onr men, wlio were emplpycd in cutting grafs, being the farthcft removed from the 'main body of the people, a company of fourteen or tif- 'tcen Indians advancecl lotvards them, having fticks in 'their hands, which, according to the report of the Ser- jeant of the marines, fhone like a mufquct. The grafs- cutters, Upon feeing them approach, drew toj»€iher, and repaired to the main body. The Indians, being en» couraged by this appearance of a flight, purfucd thc||^'j they ffopp6d, however, when they were within abdilC a furlopg of them, and after fliouting feveral times, went back into the wood.^. In the evening they came again in the fame manner, flopped at the fame dillance, but I could not prevail upOh'them to (lop. This day Mr, Green took the fun's meridian ahitud© a little within the fouth entrance of the hay, which ^ave the latitude 34 d, S. the variation of the needle 'was II d. ^^m. E*. Early the next tnorning. May the 1 ft, the body of Forby Sutherland, one of our leamen. Who died thb ievemng before, was buried near the watering-place j ' and from this incident 1 called the fouth point of this bay Sutherland P6int. This day we refolvcd to make an excurfion into the country. Mr Banks, Di* Solartder, myfelf, and fcven others, 'properly accoutred for the expedition, fet out, and repaired tirft to the huts near the Watering- pkce, v,hither fome of the natives continued eie'ry.day to refort; aid though the little brefents which we nad left there before nad not yet been taken away, we left others of fomewhat more value, confifting of cloth, lookiTig-glalTes, combs, andi beads, and then went u]p into the country. We found the ifoil to be either fwamp or h^ght fand, and the fac4^ 0f the country finely diveriified by wood and lawn^jj#- T^ tfefes ate tall,.ftrait, and vdtjiout iind^m(Si^ ^ 3H ^ ftandi. 42t CAPTAIN GOOK's FIRST VOYAGE. I ftanding at fuch a dlftance from each other that the whole country, at leaft where the fwamps do not ren- der it incapable of cultivation, might be cultivated with- out cutting down one of them : between the trees the ground is covered wirli grafs., of which there is great abundance, growing in tufts about as big as can well be grafped in the hand, which fland very ciofe to each other. We fdw many houfes of the inhabitants, and places . where they had flept upon the grafs without any fliel- ter ; but we faw only one of the people, who, the mo- ment he difcovered us, ran away. At all thefe places we left pref^nts, hoping that at length they might pro- duce confidence and good-will. We had a tranlient and imperfect view of a quadruped about as big as a .rabbit: Mr Banks's greyhound, which was with us, got fight of it, and would probably have caught it, but the moment he fet ofFhe lamed himfelf againft a flump which lay concealed ip the long grafs. We afterwards faw the dung of an animal which fed upon grafs, and which we judged could not be lefs than a deer ; and the footfteps of another, which was clawed like a dog, and feemea to be about as big as a wolf: we alfo tracked a (mall animal, whofe foot refembled that of a polecat or weafel. The trees over our heads abounded with birds of various kinds,, among which were many of exquifite beautjr, particularly loriquets pnd cockatoos, which flevs* in" nocks of feveral fcores together. We found fome wood which had been felled by the natives witii a blunt inftrument, and fome that nad been barked. The trees were not of many fpecies ; among others there was a large one which yielded a gum not unlike the Sanguis draconis / and in fome of them Heps had been cut at about three feet diflance from each other, fpr the convenience of climbing them. From this excurfion we returned between three and four o'clock, and having dined on board, w;: went afhore again at the watering-place, where a party of men yven hlllng ca{k$. Mr Gore, die Second Lieutenant, had been CArTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 42p l>een fent out in the morning with a boat to dredge for oyfters at the head of the biiy ; when he had performed this fervice, he went afhore, and having taken a mid- ihipman with him, and fent the boat away, fet out to join the waterers by land. In his way he fell in with a body of two and twenty Indians, who followed him, and were often not more than twenty yards diftant ; when Mr Gore perceived them fo near, he (lopped, and faced about, upon which they flopped alio ; and when he went on again, continued their purfuit : they did not however attack him, though they were all arm- ed with lances, and he and the midihipman got in fatety £0 the watering-place. The Indians, who had flacken- cd their purfuit when they came in fight of the main body of our people, halted at about the diftarice of a quarter of a mile, where they flood dill. Mr Monk- houfe and two or three of the waterers took it in their head to march up to them ; but feeing the Indians keep their ground till they caire pretty near them, they vrere feized with a fudden fear very common to the ralh and fool-hardy, and made a hafly retreat : this flep, which infured the danger that it was taken to avoid, encourag- ed the Indians, and four of them running forward dif^ charged their lances at the fugitives, v/ith fucli fores that, flying no lefs than forty yards, they went beyond ihem. As the Indians did not purfue, our people, re- covering their fpirits, flopped to colled the lances when, they came up to the place where they lay ; upon which the Indians, in their turn, began to retire. Jufl at thig time 1 came up, with Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and Tu- pia ; arid being delirous to convince the Indians that wc were neither afraid of then^, nor intended them any mifchief, we advanced towards them, making figils of expoftulatioq and entreaty, but they could not be per- fuaded to wait till we could come up. Mr Gore told us, that he had feen fome of tl\^m up the bay, who had invited him by figns to come on fliore, which he, cer- tainly with great prudence, declined. The morning of the next day was fo rainy, that we were vl}» CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VdTAGE. ! i ' 'were all glad to ftay on board. In the afternoon, how. '■ever, it cleared up, and we made another excurrionl along the fea eoaft to the fouthward : we went afhore, and Mr Banks and Dr Solander {gathered many plants; ■but befides thefe we faw nothing worthy of notice, At -our firft entering the woods, v^e met with three of the liatives, who inrtflntly ran away: more of them were 'feen by fome of tht; people, but ihcy all difappeared, "with great preripitation, as foon as they found thtvt they were difcovered. By the bold nef? of thefe people at our iirft landing, and the terror that feized them at the fight of us afterwards, it appears that they were flifficiently intimidated by our fire-yrms : not that we had any rea". 'fon to think the people much hurt by the fmall-ihotl which we were obliged t.o (ire at rhem, when they at- 1 tacked us at our coming out of the boat ; but they had probabiy feen the effcds of meiti, from their lurking i places, upon the birds that we had ihot, Tupia, who was now become a "good markfman, frequently ftrayed 'from us to fhoot pmrrots ; and he had told us, that while lie was thus employed, he had once met with nine In- dians, who, as ioon as they perceived he faw them, rati from him, in great confufion and terroi*. The next day, May 3d, twelve canoes, in each of I which was a fingle Indi^.n, canrie towards the watering'- place, and were within half a mile of it a confiderable time : they Were employed in ftriking 6ih, upon v hich, 'like others that we -had {ecn before, they were fovi ictit that they feerned to regard nothing elfc. It happ .led, however, that a party of our people were out a ihooting fiCBT the place, and one of the men, whofe curiofity rnight at length perhaps be routed by the report of the fowling-pieces, was chferved by Mr Banks to haul up his canoe upon the beach, and go towards the (hooting Jir'rty : in fpniething more than a quarter of an hour he returned, launched his canoe, and went off in her to hi$ companions. TJiis incident makes it profeaWe that the natives acquired a knowledge of the deftrudive power jDf our fire-arms, when wc knew nothing of the ciatter ; CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 451, )r this man was not feen by any of the party whofe- derations he had reconnoitered. While Mr Banks was g-ithering plants near the wa- rring-place, I went with Dr Sola nder and l\4r Monk- [oule to the head of the bay, that i might examine that* in of the country, and make farther att empts to form )me connection with the natives. In our way we met' rith eleven or twelve fmall canoes, with each a man in^ probably the fame that Vv'ere afterwards abreiil: of ^he- iore, who all made into Oioal water upon our ap- roach. Wc met other Indians on fhorc the firft time ^e landed, who inftantly took to their canoes, and pad- led away. We went up the countr}"^ to fome diftance, pd found the face of it ncariy the fame with that- fhich has been dcfcribed already, but the foil was much , :her ; for inftead of iand, ^ found a deep black mould, [hich I thought very fit for the production of grain • any kind. In the woods we found a tree which bore lit that in colour and fhape refemblcd a cherry ; the Hce had an agreeable tartnefs, though but little flavour, '^e found alfo interfperfed fome of the lined meadows the world : fome places, however, were rocky, but lefe were comparatively few . the i^one is fandy, and light be ufed, with advantage, for buildhig. When e returned to the boat, we law fome fmoke upon an- her part of the coaft, and went thither in hopes of ■ jeedng with the people, but, at our approach, thefe ]o ran away. We round fix fmall canoes, and fix ;s very near the beach, with fome mufcle*? roafting ^on them, and a few oyders Ipng near : by this we Iged that there had been one man in each canoe, 10 having picked up fome fliell-fiin were come afhore I eat them, and that each had made his feparate Fire for it purpofe : we tafted of their cheer, and left thf3m in i [urn fome Ibings of beads, and other things which • thought would pleafe them. At the foot of a tree ; [this place we found a fmall well of frefh water, fup- |ed by a fpring ; and the day being now far fpent,wc return- 431 CAPTAIN COOIC's FIRST VOYAGE. Ki returned to the (hip. In the evening, Mr Banhs made a little excurfion with his ^un, and found fuch a number cf quails, refembling thole in England, that he might have fliot as many as he pleafed ; but his objed was va- riety, and not number. 1 he next morninj^, May the 4th, as the wind woulj net permit me to fail, I icnt out Several parties into the country, to try again whether fome intercourfe could not be eftabllfliea with the natives. A rnidfhipman who belonged to one of thefe partief, having ftraggled along way from his companionSj met with a very old man and woman, and fome little children ; they were fitting under a tree by the water {nle, and neither party faw the other till they were clofe together : the Indians iliewed figns of fear, but did not attempt to run away. The man happened to have nothing to give them but a parrot that he had fhot ; this he offered, but they refufed to accept it, withdrawing themfelves from his hand cither through fear or averfion. His flay with them was but Ihorr, for he faw feveral canoes near the beach fifliing, and being alone, he feared they might come aihore and att.'';;k liim : he faid, that thefe people were very dark coloured, but not black; that the man and woman appeared to be very old, being both grey-head- ed ; that the hair of the man's head was bufhy, and his beard long and rough ; that the woman's hair was crop- ped fhort, and both of them were flark naked. Mr Monkhoufe, the Surgeon, and one of the men, who were with another party near the watering-place, alfo llrayed from their companions, and as they were coming out of the thicket, obferved fix Indians flanding together, at the diftance of about fifty yards. One of | them pronounced a word very loud, which was fup- pofed to be a lignal, for a lance was immediately thrown at him out of the wood, which very narrowly miffed him. When the Indians faw that the weapon had not taken efledt, they ran away with the greateft I ;tr,«-;r>n • but 0X1 turning about towards the place i whence precipitation j CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 435 '^'vhence the lance had been thrown, he faw a young Indian, whom he judged to be about nineteen ot twenty years old, come down from a tree, and he alfo ran away with fuch fpeed as made it hopelefs to f6llow him. Mr Monkhoufe was of opinion that he had been watched by theie Indians in his pafiage through the thicket, arid t'nat the youth had been ftationed m the tree, to dif- charge the lance at him, upon a fignal as he fhould come by ; but however this be, there could be no doubt but that he was tlie perfon who threw the lance. In the afternoon, I went myielJ with a party over to the north fhore, and while lome of our people were hauling the feine, wc made an excurfion a few miles into the country, proceeding afterwards in the direction of the coaft. We found this place without wood, and fomewhat refcmbling our moors in England ; the fur- face of the ground, however, was covered with a thin bru(h of plants, about as high as the knees : the hills near the coaft are low, but others rife behind them, in- creafmg by a gradual afcent to a confiderable diftance, with marrfies and morafTes between. When we return- ed to the boat, we found that our jpeople had caught v;ith the feine a great number of fmall fifh, which are well known in the Weft Indies, and which our failors call Leather Jackets, becaufe their fkin is remarkably thick. I had fent the Second lieutenant out in the yawl a ftriking, and when we got back to the ihip, we found that he alfo had been very fuccefsful. He had obfcrved that the large fting-rays, of which there is great plenty in the bay, followed the flowing tide into very ftiallow water ; he therefore took the opportunity of flood, and ftruck feveral in not more than two or three feet water : one of them weighed no lefs than two hundred and forty pounds after his entrails were taken out. The next morning, May the 5th, as the wind ftill continued northerlv, I fent out the yawl again, and the people ftruck one uill larger, for when his entrails were taken Vol. I.— N«» u. '» I h4 CAPTAm COOK'9 FIRST VOYAOE. taken out he w^ghed three hundred and thtt'tyr fix pppnds. , ' ' The great quantity of plants which Mr Banks &qd pr Soiander colleded in this place induced me to give it the ^affie pf Botany Bay. It is fituated in the la- . litude of Md, S. longitude 208 d. 37 m, W. It is ca- pacious, jafe, and convenient, and may be knOwn by the land on the fca-coaft, which is nearly level, and of a moderate height ; in general higher than it is farther inland, with fteef) rocky cliffs next the fea, vi^hich have ^ thfi appearance of a long ifland lying clofe under the £hore» The harbour lies about the middle of this land, and in approaching it from the fouthward, is difcover- (cd before the fliip comes abreaft of it ; but from the northward it is not difcovered fo foon : the entrance is a . little more than a quarter of a mile brood, and lies in W. N. W, To fail into it the fouthern fhore (hould he kept on board, till the ftiip is within a fmall bare ifland, which Ue§ clofe under the north ihore ; within this iiJimd the deepeft water on that fide is (even fathom, -il^Uowing to five a good way up. At a confiderable diftance from the fouth (hore there is a Ihoal, reaching from the inner fo;jth point quite to the head of the har- bour ; but Over towards the north and north-weft fliorc there is a channel of twelve or fourteen feet at low »va- ter, for three or four leagues, up to a place where there U three or four fathom, but here I found very little freih water. We anchored near the fouth {hore, about a mile with* in the entrance, for the convenience of failing with a fouthcrly wind, and becaufe I thought it the heft fitua- tion for watering ; but 1 afterwards found a very fine ilream on the north fhore, \x the firft fandy cove with- in the ifland, before which a fhip might lie almoft land- locked, and procure wood as well as water in great abundance. Wood, indeed, is every where plenty, but I (aw only two kinds which may be confidered as tim- ber, Thefe trees are as large, or larger than the Englifli oak, . CAPTAIN COOr, HRST VOYAGE. ,„ >-?«« draccnh^ andX woorf 'it '''^ "'t*''''* K«m like «o'our«l, Jifee %/.r;/^°"'*,i^' ''Itf^ ''M and dark! ftraif fomething like the pke- T^aI^.^^^^ '^" *nd which has fome^fc^blancefn 4! T i^'S***^ "f this, IS alio hard ami heaw ^k ""^ '"^'^ ^^l^ of Afnerio federal ^md.o^Z\Z Z ""' "^"^ ^^^^^^d great plemv „ear tlK iS oV .TfT^^^^J.^'fo gwV ia general is U, low; f„d tSv'^' ,^''« c°-'»tryb lee. The woods, as I hav^N^^* "'/f^ as we could w.th birds of evquif, e beat tt „ T ?K^'"^«''' abound kind ; we found alfo crSerr"''ii^r'>^ °f »•« P^rmt thofe in England. Abow lu ' f ''""i^'^.the fame with where there are large flats off'!?'' °} "><= harbom^ great plenty of wate?fowl^ moft ./"l-T''' ^^'^i" gether unknown to us -on i- ,"^ ^'"'^h were alto- was black and white, r^uchTarl'rh' '^°'J '^^^^^awL ftapefonjewhatref-mbUno^J ^r """ ^ ^wan, and in off^ncl and mud'we'^f ^P^'«"- O" thefe banks - mulcles, cockles, and othe? R^^^l'}"? °^ °yfters, he prmcpal fubliftence of the inh , • "^^""^ ^^^"^ to hi to (hoal water with their L,!^^^''"*"^'' whogoin- out with their hands. We dy no?1?' """^ Pi-^l^ them =^ny of ihem raw nor .L \t f ""^^^^ Aat thev eat "refs them, for They h^vef'^^^'^I^VS^ on Ao?e w noes for that purpclb t- f "''^ '^«» in their ca- -hoHy upon rhis^food, f Jr t'^e^ ca^?' ^°'^?^''' f"Mft fi*. fome of which thev ftriL V "^"^^y °f "'her "ley take with hook anc?li„e ' '"'* ^igs, and fome k'iidraptrtohen."^ '"- were ftarfc naked- hh but, like ofhcranim,? ■"""""> "°'- '° "ve in focie." f-oaft, and in the S.' """ ^^^'-^^ ^"'o^ ab^ K« with tbem : after the '£i°^"""'e leaft con- tig, they would never come fi^T'** /" "^ ^^^ I IT2 '^'iSh to pitky. , . ' nor <43<» CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. nor did they touch a Tingle article of all that we had left at their huts, and the places they frequented, on pur- pofe for them to take away. - During my flay in this harhour, I caufed the Eng- lifti colours to be difplaycd on ihore every day, and the Hiip's name, and the date of the year, to be infcribed upon one of the trees near the watering-place. It is high water here at the full and change of the moon about eight o'clock, and the tide rifes and falls perpendicularly between four and five feet. n CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VO :AGE. 437 The Range from B'jiany Bay 1o Trinity Bay ; with a farther Jccount of the Country^ its Inhabitants^ and Produ^ions, , ' . AT day-break, on Sunday the 6th of May, 1 770, we fet fail from Botany Bay, with a light breeze at N. W. which foon after coming to the fouthward, we ftcered along the fhore N. N. E. and at noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 33 d. 50 m. S. At this time we were between two and three miles diftant from the land, and abreaft of a bay, or liarbour, in which there ap- peared to be good anchorage, and which I called Port JACKSON. This harbour lies three leagues to the north- ward of Botany Bay : the variation, by feveral azimuths, appeared to be 8 d. E. At fun- fet the northermoft land in fight bore N. 26 E. and fome broken land, that ieemed to form a bay, bore N. 40 W. diftant four leagues. This bay. which lies in latitude 33 d. 42 m. I called Broken Bay. We fteered along! the fhore N. N. £. all night, at the diftance of about three leagues from the land, having from thirty-two to thirty-fix fa- thom water, with a hard fandy bottom. Soon after fun-rife on the 7th, I took fctoal azi- muths, with four needles belonging to the azimuth compafs, the mean refult of which gave the variation 7 d. ^6 m. E. At noon our latitude, by obfervation, was 33 d. 22 m. S. we were about three leagues from the fhore ; the ncrthermofl land in fight bore N. rg E» and fome lands which projeded in three bluff pcnnts, a!jd which, for that reafon, 1 called Cape Three Points, here S. W. diilaat -live leagues. Our longi- tude >438 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST A^OTAGE. tude from Botany Bay was 19 m. E. In the after- noon we faw fmoke in fcveral places upon the fhore, and in the evening, found the v^iation to be 8 d. 25 m. E. At this time we were between two and three miles from the (hore, in twenty-eight fathom ; arid at noon the next day, we had not advanced one ftep to the northward. We (lood off fhore, with the winds northerly, till twelvo at night, and, at the diftance of about five leagues, had feventy fathom ; at the diftance of fix leagues we had eighty fathom, which is the ex- tent of the fouiidings ; for at the diftance often leagues, we had no ground with 1 50 fathom. The wind continuing northerly till the morning of the loth; we continued to ftand m and off the fhore, with very little change of fituation in other rcfpe£ts ; but a gale then fpringing up at S. W. we made the beft of our way along the fliore to the northward. At fon-rife, our latitude was 33 c^ 2 m. S. and the varra^ tion 8 dv E. At nine in tHc forenoon, we pafFed a re^ markable hill, which ftood a little way inland, and ibmelt hat refembled the crown of a hat : and at noon^ OUT latitude, by obfervation, was 32 d. 53 m. S. and our longitude 208 d. W. We were abouctwo leagued diftant ftom the kndy which extended fi-Qiri N. 41 Ew to S. 41 W. and a fmaU rom^d rock, or ifland, wbicli lay dofc ilnder the land, bore S. 82 W. diftant bet:v^e60 three and four leagues. At four in the afternoon wcj palled, at the diftance of about a mile, a low rockyr pdnt, which I called Point Stephens, on the no^th Ude €* which is an inlet, which I called Port Ste- phens: this inlet appeared to me, from the maft head, to be fhekered from all winds. It lies in latitude 32 d. 40 m. longitude 207 d. 51 m. and at the entrance arfc three fmali iflands, two of which are high j and oA' the main near the fhore arc fome high round hills, which at a diftance appear like iflands. In pafTing this bay,, at the diftance 01 two or three miles from the fhore^ our CAPTAIN COOirs FIRST VOYAGE. 4$9 our foundings were from fhirty-three to twenty-fevcn fathom, from which I conjedured that there muft be a fufficient depth of water within it. At a little diftance within land, we faw fmoke in feveral places; and at half an hour pa ft five, the norther moft l^nd in fight bore N. ^6 E. and Point Stephens S. W. diftant four leagues. Our foundings in the night, were from forty-eight to fixty-two fathom, it the diftance of between three and four leagues from the (hore, which made in two hillocks. This Point I called CAPf. Hawke : it lies in the la- titude of '52 d, 14 m. S. longitude 207 d. ."^o m. W. and at four o*clock in the morning of the iith, bore W. diftant about eight miles ; at the fame time the north- ermoft land in light bore N. 6 £. and appeared like aa ifland. At noon^ this land bore N. 8 E. the norther- moft land in fight N. 13 E. and Cape Hawke S. 37 W. Our latitude, by obfervation, was 32 d. 2 m. S. which was twelve miles to the fouthward of that given by the log ; fo that probably we had a current fetting that way : by the morning amplitude and azimuth, the variation was 9 d. I o m. E. During our run along the Ihore, in the afternoon, we faw fmoke in feveral places, at a little diftance from the beach, and one upon the top of a hill, which was the firft we had feen upon elevated ground fince our arrival upon the coaft. At fun-fet, we had twenty-three fathom, at the diftance of a league! and a half from the (bore : the northermofl land then bore N. 1 3 E. and three hills, remarkably large and high, lying contiguous to each other, and not far from the beach, N. N. W. As thefe hills bore fome referablance to each other, we called them the Three Brothers. They lie in latitude 3 1 d. 40 m. and may be feen four- teen or fixteen leagues. We fteered N. E. by N. all night, having from twenty-feven to fixty-feven fathom, at the diftance of between two and fix leagues from the fhore. At day-break, we fteered north, for the northermoft land in nght. At noon, the 1 2th, we were four leagues from 44© CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. from t'iic fliore, and by obfervation, in latitude 31 d. 1 8 m. S. which was fifteen miles to" the fouthward of that given by the log; our longitude 206 d. 58 m. \V. In the afternoon, we flood in for the land, where wc faw fmoke in feveral places, till fix in the evening, when being within three or four miles of it, and in twenty- four fathom of water, we flood oil' with a frelh breeze !»t N- and N. N. W. till midnight, when we had 118 fathom, at the diflance of eight leagues from the land, and then vacked. At three in the morning, the wind veered to the weftward, when we tacked and flood to the northward. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was .'^o d. 43 m. S. and our longitude 206 d. 45 m. W. At this time we were between three and four leagues from the fhore, the northermoft part of w'hich bore from us N. 13 W. and a point, or head land, on which we faw fires that produced a great quantity of fmoke, hore W. diftant four leagues. To this Point I gave the name of Smokey Cape : it is of a confiderable height, and over the pitch of the Point is a round hillock ; with-- in it arc two others, much higher and larger, and within ihem the land is very low. Our latitude was 30 d. 31 m. S. longitude 206 d. 54 m. W. this day the ob- Jerved latitude was only five miles fouth of tlie log. We faw fmoke in feveral parts along the coafl, befidcs that fecn upon Sn^iokcy Cape. In the afternoon, the wind being at N. E. we flood off and on, and at three or four miles diflance from the fliore had thirty fathom water: the wind afterwards coming crof? off land, we flood to the northward, hav- ing from thirty to twenty-one fathom, at the diflance of four or five miles from the fliore. At {ive in the morning of the 14th, the wind veered to the north, and blew frefh, attended with fqualls : at eight, it began to thunder and rain, and in about an hour it fell calm, which gave us an opportunity to found, and we had eighty-fix fathom at between four and five leagues from the Ihore : foon after this we had a gale from the foulhward, with which we fleered N. by W. fqr CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 44'. for the norfherinoft land in fight. At noon, we were about four leagues from the (hore, and by obfcrvation, in latitUiie 30 d. 22 m. which was nine nriiles to the fouthward of our reckoning;, longitude 206 d. 3Q m. W. Some lands near the (bore, of a confiderablc height, bore W. As we advanced to the northward, from Botany Bay, the land gradually increafed in height, fo that m this Latitude it may be called a hilly country. Between this latitude and the Bay, it exhibits a pleafing variety of ridges, hills, vallies, and plains, all clothed with wood, of the fame appearance with that which has been parti- cularly defcribed : the land near the (hore is in general low and fandy, except the points, which are rocky, and over many of them are high hills, which, at-thcir firfl: riling out of the water, have the appearance of iflands. In the afternoon, we had fome fmail rocky iflands be- tween us and ihe land, the Ibuthermoft of which lies iq, latitude 30 d. 10 m. and the northermoft in 29 d. 58 m, and fomewhat more than two leagues from the land: about two miles witliout the northermoft ifland we had tliirty-three f u. 3k; ihould '44^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGfi. I fliould not hive fcen the fhip by a cafual glance as they walked along the (here ; and though fhe miift, with re- fpe£l to every other objedt they had yet feen,have beea little lefs (lupendous and unaccountable than a floating mountain wi[h all its woods would have been to us. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 28 d. 39 m. S. and longitude 206 d. 27 m. W. A higii point of land, which r named Cape Byron, bore N. W. by W. ac the diftance of three miles. It lies in latitude 28 d. 37 m. ^o r. S. longitude 206 d. 30 m. W. and may be knowa by a remarkable fliarp peaked mountain, which lies in- land, and bears from it N. W. by W. From this point, the land, trends N. 13W. inland it is high and hilly, bm low near the ihore ; to the fouthward of the point i'. is alfo low and level. We continued to fteer along the ihore with a frcfli gale, till fun-fet, when we fuddenly difcovered breakers a head, dire^ly in the (hip's courfe, and alfo on our larboard bow. At this time we were about five miles from the land, and had twenty fathom V ater : we hauled up eaft till eight, when we had run eight miles, and increafed our depdi of water to forty- four fathom : we then brought to, with the £hip*s head to the eaftward, and lay upon this tack till ten, when, baving increafed our founding to feventy-eight fathom, we wore, and lay with the Blip's head to the land till five in the morning, when we made fail, and at daylight were greatly furprized to find ourfelves farther to the fouthward, than we had been the evening before, though the wind had been foutherly, and blown frelh all nighr: we now faw the breakers again within us, and paflTed them at the diftance of one league. They lie in latitude 28 d. 8 m. S ftretching oflF eaft two leagues from a point of land, under which is a fmall ifland. Their lituation may always he known by the peaked moun- tain which has been juft mentioned, and which bears from them S. W, by W. for this reafon I have n:imed it Mount Warning. It lies feven or eight leagues inland, in latitude 28 d. 22 m. S. The land about it is high and hilly,p but it is of itlelf luHiciently confpicuoui ta CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 44J to be at once diflingiiifhed from every other objed^. The point off which thefe (hoals lie, I have named Point Danger. To the northward of this point the land is low, and trends N. W, by N. but it foon turns again more to the northward. At noon we were aboui: two leagues from the land, and, by obfervarion, in latitude 27 d. 46 m. S. which was feventcen miles to the fouthwafd of the log ; our longitude was 206 d. 26 m. W. Mount Warning bore S. 26 W. diftant fourteen leagues, and the northermoll land in light bore N. We puriued our courfe along the fhore, at the diftance of abor.r two leagues, in the di-* redion of N. | E till between lour and five in the after-* noon,when we difcovered breakers on our larboard bow. Our depth of water was thirty-feven fathom, and at fun- fet, the riorthermoft land bore N. by W. the breakers N. W. by W. diftant four miles, and the northermoft land fet at noon, which formed a point, and to which I gave the name of Point Look-out, W. diftant five or fix miles, in the latitude of 27 d. 6 m. On the north fide of this point, the (hore forms a wide open bay, which I called MoRETyi\'s BAYy in the bottom of whiah the land is fo low that I could but juft fee it from the top- maft head. The breakers lie between three and four miles from Point Look out ; and at this time we had a great fea from the fouthward, which broke upon them very high. We ftood on N. N. E. till eight o'clock, when, having paffed the breakers, and deepened our water to fifty-two fathom, w^c brought to till midnight, when we made fail again to the N. N. E. At four in the morning of the 17th, we had 135 fa- thom, and when the day broke, I perceived that, during the night, I had got much farther northward, and from the fliore, than I expel water J&om feventcei) to thirty-four fathom. At day-break on thj 20th, the northermoft land bore from us W. S. \V. and feemed to end in a point, from which we difcovcred a reef running out to the north- ward as far as vsre could fee. We had hauled our wind to the weft ward before it was light, and continued the courfe till we faw the breakers upon our Ice bow. We jiow edged away N. W. and N. N. W. along the eift Jide of the ftioal, from two to one mile diftant, having |iegular foundings from thirteen to feven fathom, with » fine fandy bottom. At noon, our latitude, by obferva- ^ioui was 24 d. 26 m. which yva^^ thirteen ixules to the worth- CAPTAIN C00K*8 IIRST VOYAGK. 447 northward of the log : we judged the extreme point of the flioal to bear from us about N. W. and the pome from which it feemc 1 to run out, bore S. i W. tiillant twenty miles. This point I named Sandy CAPii, from two very large parches of white fand which lay upon lU It is fufficienrly high to be feen at the dift siice of twelve leagues, in clear wexither, and lies in latitude 24 d, 45 m. longitude 206 d. 51 m. the land trends from it S. W. as far as can be feen. We kept along the call fide of the fhoal till two in the afternoon, when, ju-'ging that there was a fufficient depth of water upon it to allovy paflage for the (hip, I fent the boat ah^ed to (bund, an/^ upon her making the (ignal for more than live fatf ?= x, we hauled our wind, and ftood over the tail of it in fix fathom. Af this time we were in latitude 2i|. d. 22 m# and Sandy Cape bore S. f E. diftant eight leagues ; but the dire.ion of the flioal is neareR N. N. W. and S* S. E. It is remarkable that when on board the fhip wc had fix fathom, the boat, which was fcarcely a quarter of a mile to the fouthward, had little more than five,jiiii that immediately after fix fathom we had thirteen, and then twenty, as faft as the man could cafl the lead : from thefe circumftances, 1 conjedured that the weft fide of the (hoal was fleep. This ftioal I called Break Sea Spit, becaufe we had now fmooth water, and to the fouthward of it we had always a high fea from the S. E. At fix in the evening, the land of Sandy Cape extended from S. I7 E. to S. 27 E. at the dillance of eight leagues ; our cfepth of water was twenty-three fa- thom : with the fame foundings we flood to the weft*- ward all night. : • /itfeven in the morning of the 21ft, we faw, from the mart-head, the land of Sandy Cape bearmg S. E. f E. diitant about thirteen leagues : at nine, we difcovcred land to the weflward, and foon after faw fmoke in fe- veral pi tees. Our depth of water was now dccreafed to feventecn far horn, and by noon we had no more than thineen, though we were feven leagues from the land, , which 448 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. hit iKrhich extended from S. by W. to W. N. W. Our la- titude at this time was 24 d. 28 m. S. For a few days paft we had feen feveral of the Tea birds called boobies, not having met with any of them before ; laft night a fmall flock of them paifed the Ihip, and went away to the N. \V. and in the morning, from about half an hour before fun-rife, to half an hour after, flight? of them were continually coming from the N. N. W. and flying to the S. S. E. nor was one of them feen to fly in any other dire£tion ; we therefore conjec- tured that there was a lagoon, river, or inlet of ihallow water, in the bottom of the deep bay, to the ibuthward of us, whither thefe birds reforted to feed in the day, and that not far to the northward there! were fome iflands to which they repaired in the ni^ht. To this bay I gave the name of Hervey's Bay, m honour of Captain Hervey. In the afternoon, we flood in for the land, fleering S. W. with a gentle breeze at S. E. till four o'clock, when, being in latitude 24 d. 36 m. about two leagues from the fliore, and having nine fathom -water, v/e bore away along the coaft N. W. by W. and at the fame time could fee land extending to the S. S. E. about eight leagues. Near the fea the land is very low, but within there are foiiie lofty hills, all thickly clothed with wood. While we were running along the fliore, we (hallowed our water from nine to feven fa- thom, and at one time we had but fix, w^hich deter- mined us to anchor for the night. At fix in the morning of the 2 2d, we weighed, with a gentle breeze from the fouthward, and fteered N. W. i W. edging in for the land till we got within two miles of it, with water from feven to eleven fathom : we then fteered N. N. \V. as the land lay, and at noon, our latitude was 24 d. 19 m. We continued in the fame courfe, at the fame diftance, with from twelve fa- thom to feven, till five in the evening, when we were abreaft of the fouth point of a lar^e open bay, in which I intended to anchor* Dyring this courfe, we difcover- ' ^ ed CAPTAIN COOK'ii FIRST VOYAGE. 449 I of the Tea iny of them fed the (hip, irning, from a hour after, m the N. N. >ne of them sfore conjec- et of ihallow le ibuthward i in the day, £ were fome rht. To this in honour of x>dinforthe J at S. E. till . 36 m. ahout nine fathom V. by W. and g to the S. S. ,e land is very ils, all thickly ling along the ^e to feven fa- which deter- ed with our glafles that the land was covered with palm- nut-trees, which we had not feen from the time of our leaving the iflands within the Tropic : we alfo faw two men walking along the fhore, who did not condefcend to take the leaft notice of us. In the evening, having hauled clofc upon a wind, and made two or three trips, we anchored about eight o'clock in five fathom, with a fine Tandy bottom. The fouth point of the bav bote E. ^ S. diftant two miles, the north point N. W. i N, and about the fame diftance from the (hore. Early the next morninp: I went afhore, with a party of men, in order to examine the country, accompanied by Mr Banks, Dr Solander, the other gentlemen, ami Tupia : the wind blew frefli, and we found it fo cold, that being at fome diftance from the fhore, we -took our cloaks as a neceflary equipment for the voyage. We landed a little within the fouth point of the bay, where we found a channel leading into a large lagoon : this channel I proceeded to examine, and found three fa- thom water till I got about a mile up it, where I met with a fhoal, upon which there was little more than one fathom, but having pafled over it, I had three fathom, again. The entrance of this channel lies clofe to the ibuth point of the bay, being formed by the (hore on the call, and on the weft by a large fpit of fand : it is about a quarter of a mile broad, and lies in S. by W, In this place there is room for a few (hips to lie in great fecurity, and a fmall ftream.of frefh water; I would have rowed into the lagoon, but was prevented by {hal- lows. We found feveral bogs, and fwamps of fait wa- ter, upon which, and by the lidcs of the lagoon, grows the true mangrove, fuch as is found in the Weft Indies^ and the firft of the kind that we had met with. In the branches of thefe mangroves there were many nefts of a remarkable kind of ant, that was as green as grafs : when the branches were difturbed they came out in great numbers, and punifhed the offender by a much iharper bite than ever we had felt from the fame kind of animal before. Upon thefe mangroves alfo we faw yol.I.-N« 12. 3 L fmall 45^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. fmall green caterpillars in great numbers : tlielr bodies were thick fet with hairs, and they were ranged upon the leaves fide by fide like a file of foldiers, to the num- ber of twenty or thirty together: when we touched them, we found that the hair on their bodies had the quality of a nettle, and gave us a much more acute, though lefs durable pain. The country here is mani- feftly worfe than about Botany Bay : the foil is dry and fandy, but the fides of the hills are covered with trees, which grow feparately, without underwood. We found here the tree that yields a gum like the Sanguis draconis ; but it is fomewhat different from the trees of the fame kind which we had feen before, for the leaves are longer,' and hang down like thofe of the weeping wil- low. We found alfo much lefs gum upon them, which is contrary to the eftablifhed opinion, that the hotter the climate, the more gums exude. Upon a plant alfo, which yielded a yellow gum, there was lefs than upon the fame kind or plant in Botany Bay. Among the fhoals and fand-banks we faw many large birds, fome in particular of the fame kind that we had feen in Bo- tany Bay, much bigger than fwans, which we judged to be pelicans ; but they were fo (hy that we could not get within gun-fhot of them. Upon the (hore we faw a fpecies of the buftard, one of which we fhot, it was as large as a turkey, and weighed feventeen pounds and an half. We all agreed that this was the beft bird we had eaten fince we left England ; and, in honour of it, we called this inlet Bustard Bay.. It lies in lati- tude 2 A d. 4 m. longitude 208 d. 18 m. The fea feem- cd to aoound with tifh ; but, unhappily, we tore our IJeine all to pieces at the firft haul : upon the mud- banks, under the mangroves, we found innumerable oyfters of various kinds ; among others the hammer- oyfter, and a large proportion offmall pearl-oyfters : if in deeper water there is equal plenty or fuch o^rfters at their full growth, a pearl fifhery might certainly be cAabliftied here to very great advantage. The people who were left on board the (hip faid, that while we were in the woods about twenty of the na- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 451 tivcs came down to the beach, abreaft of her, and hav- ing^ looked at her Ibme time, went away ; but we that were afhore, though we faw fmokc in many places, faw no people: the i'mokc was at places too diftant for us to get to them by land, except one, to which we repaired : we found ten fmall fires ftill burning with- in a few paces of each other ; but the people were gone : we faw near them i'everal veffels of bark, v»rhich we fuppofed to have contained water, and fome fliells and fifh-bones, the remains of a recent meal. We faw alfo, lying upon the ground, feveral pieces of foft bark, about the length and orcadth of a man, which we ima- gined might be their beds ; and, on the windward fide of the fires, a fmall fhade, about a foot and a half high, of the fame fubilance. The whole was in a thicket of clofe trees, which afforded good (belter from the wind. The place feemed to be much trodden, and as we faw tto houfe, nor any remains of a houfe, we were inclined to believe that as thefe people had no clothes, they had no dwelling ; but fpent their nights, among the other commonerF 01 Nature, in the open air: and Tupia himfelf,with an air of fuperiority and compaflion, (hook his head, and faid that they were Taata Enosy * poor wretches.' 1 meafured the perpendicular height of the laft tide, and found it to be eight feet above low-water mark, and from the time of low- water this day, I found that it muft be high-water at the full and change of the moon at eight o'clock. At four o'clock in the, morning of the 24th, we weighed, and with a gentle breeze at fouth, made fail out of the bay. In flanding out our ibundings were from five to fifteen fathom ; and at day-light, when we were in the greatell depth, and abreafl ofthe north head of the bay, we difcovered breakers ftretching out from it N. N. E. between two and three miles, with a rock at the outermoft point of them, jufl above water. While we were pafling thefe rocks, at the diftance of about half a mile, we had from fifteen to twenty fathom, and as ibon as we had pafTed them, we hauled along (hore 3L2 W. 45* CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE, m W. N. W. for the fartheft land we had in fighf. At noon, our latitude, bv obfervation, was 23 d. ^2 m. S. the north part of BulUrd Bay bore S. 62 E. diftant ten miles ; and the northermoft land in fight N. 60 W. the longitude was 208 d. 37 m. and our tliftance from the neareft (hore fix m'les, with fourteen fathom water. Till live in the afternoon it was calm, but afterwards we fleered before the wind N. W. as the land lay till ten at night, and then brought to, having had all along fourteen and fifteen fathom. At five in the morning of the 25th, we made fail ; and at day-light the northermoft point of the main bore N. 70 W. Soon after we faw more land, making lik2 iflands,. and bearing N. W. by N, At nine we were abreaft of the point, at the diftance of one mile, with fourteen fathom water. This point I found to lie di- re(5lly under the Tropic of Capricorn ; and, for that reafon, I called it Cape Capricorn : its longitude is 208 d. 58 m. W. it is of a confiderable height, looks white and barren, and may be known by fome iflands which lie to the N. VV. of it, and fome fraall rocks at the diftance of about a league S. E. On the weft fide of the Cape there appeared to be a lagoon, and on the two fpits which formed the entrance we faw an in- credible number of the large birds that refemble a peli- can. The northermoft land now in fight bore trom Cape Capricorn N. 24 W, and appeared to be an ifland; but the main land trended W. by N. | N. which courfe we fteered, having from fifteen to fix fathom, and from fix to nine, with a hard fandy bottom. At noon our latitude, by obfervation, was 23 d. 24 m. S. Cape Ca- pricorn bore S. 60 E. diftant two leagues ; and a fmall ifland N. by E. two miles ; in this fituation we had nine fathom, being about four miles from the main, which, next the fea,is lov/ and fandy, except the point* which are high and rocky. The country inland is hilly, but by no means of a pleafing afpedl. We continued to ftand to the N. W. till four o'clock in the afternoon, when it fell calm ; and we foon after anchored in twelve fai^-iom, CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 453 fathom, having the main laii-J and iflands in a manner all round us, and Cape Capricorn bearing S. 54 E. dil- tant four leagues. In the night wc found the tide rife and fall near feven feet ; and the flood to fet to the weft- ward, and the ebh to the eaftward, which is jull con- trary to what we found when we were at anchor to the eallward of Buftard Bay. At fix in the morning of the 26th, we weighed, with a gentle breeze at fouth, and flood away to the N. W. between the outermoft range of illands and the main, leaving feveral fmall iflands between the main and the fliip, which we palfed at a very little diftance : our foundings being irregular, from twelve to four fathom, I lent a boat ahead to found. At noon we were about three miles from the main, and about the fame dillancs from the iflands without us : our latitude, by obferva- tion, was 23 d. 7 m. S. the main land here is high and mountainous; the iflands v.rhich lie oflfit are alio moft of them high, and of a fmall circuit, having an appear^- ance rather of barrennefs than fertility. At this time we law fmoke in many places at a conhderable diftance in- land, and, therefore, conjectured that there might be a lagoon, river, or inlet running up the country, the ra- ther as we had palfed two places which had the appear- ance of being fuch ; but our depth of water was too lit- tle to encourage me to venture where I Ihould probably have lefs. We had not flood to the northward above an hour, before we fuddenly fell into three fathom ; up- on which I anchored, and fent away the mailer to found the channel which lay to leeward of us, between the northermoft ifland and the main : it appeared to be pretty broad, but I fufpecled that it was ihallow, and lb indeed it was found 5 for the mafter reported at his return that in many places he had only two fathom and an hiilf, and wh :;re we lay at anchor we had only fix- teen fest, wh ich '.vas not two feet more than the Ihip drew. While the mafter was founding the channel, Mr Bunb tried to hlh from tlie cabblu v. iiidows with hook and '^*'^ ^ ▼^.Q. V <■ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) &^ rA 4^ (A V 1.0 I.I 11.25 US 1^ 1^ 1^ 1 2.2 1.6 1.4 <$> ^ y] /2 / Photographic Sciences Corporation 'ii WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) 873-4503 >?5»^ J Ms Ux 454 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. and line : the water was too fhallow for fifh ; b it the ground was almon: covered with crabs, which readily took the bait, and inme times held it fo faft in their claws, that they did not quit their hold till they were confiderably above water. Thefe crabs were of two forts, and both of them fuch as we had not feen before : one of them was adorned with the fineft blue that can be imagined, in every re- fpedt equal to the ultramarine, with which all his claws, ^T'l every joint was deeply tinged: the under part of him was white, and lb exquifitely polilhed that in co- lour and brightnefs it exactly refemhled the white of cid china: the other was alfo marked with the ultrama- rine upon his joints, and his toes, but ibmewhat more fparingly ; and his back was marked ',vith three brown fpots which had a lingular appearance. The people who had been out with the boat to found, reported, that upon an ifland where we had obferved two fires, they had feen ieveral of the inhabitants, who called to tliem, and feemcd very defirous that they iTiould land. In the evening, the wind veered to E. N. E. which ^^wq us an opportunity to ftrctch three or four miles back by the way we came ; after which, the wind ihifred to the South, and obliged us again to anchor in fix fethom. At five in the morning of the 27th, I fent away the mafter to fearch for a palfage between the ifiau'ls, while we got the fhip under iail ; and, as foon as it was light, we followed the boat, which made a fignal that a pal- ftge had been found. As foon as we got again mto deep water, we made fail to the northward, as the land lay, with foundings from nine fathom to fifteen, and fome fmall iflands ftill without us. At noon we were about two leagues diftant from the main ; and, by obfer- vation, in latitude 22 d. ^^ m. S. The northermoft point of land in fight now bore N. N. W. diftant ten miles. To this point I gave the name of Cape Mani- fold, from the number of high hills which appeared over it ; it lies in latitude 22 d. 43 pa. S. and diftant ftbout CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. ASS about feventeen leagues from Cape Capricorn, in the diredlion of N. 26 W. Between thefe capes the fhorc forms a large bay, which I called Keppel Bay ; and ( alfo diftinguiQied the iflands by the name of Keppel's Islands. In this bay there is good anchorage; but what refrefhments it may afford, I know not : we caught no hfh, though we were at anchor ; but pro- bably there is freih v/ater in feveral places, as both the iflands and the main are inhabited. We faw fmoke and fires upon the main ; and upon the illandij we faw people. At three in the afternoon, we pafled Cape Manifold, from which the land trends N. N. W. The land of the Cape is high, rifmg in hills diredly from the fea ; and may be known by three iflands which lie off it, one of them near the fhore, and the other two eight miles out at fea. One of thefe iflands is low and Hat, and the other high and round. At fix o'clock iu the evening we brought to, when the northermoft part of the main in light bore N. W. and fome iflands which lie off it N. 3 1 W. Our foundings after twelve o'clock were from twenty to twenty-five fathom, and in the night from thirty to thirty-four. At day-break on the 28th, we made fail, Cape Mani- fold bearing S. by E. diftant eight leagues, and the iflands which I had fet the night before were diftant four miles in the fame diredion. The fartheft viiible point of the main bore N. 67 W. at the diftance of twenty-two miles ; but we could fee feveral iflands to the northward of this diretfiion. At nine o'clock ia the forenoon, we were abreall of the point which I call- ed Cape Towns hend. It lies in latitude 22 d. 15 m. longitude 209 d. 43 m. the land is high and level, and rather naked than woody. Several iflands lie to the northward of it, at the diftance of four or five miles out at fea ; three or four leagues to the S. E. the (horc forms a bay, in the bottom of which there appeared to be an inlet or harbour. To the weflward of the Cape the land trends S. W. i S. and there forms a very large bay 4S6 CAPTAIN COOK'3 FIRST VOYAGE. bay which turns to the eaftward, and probably com- municates witli the inlet, and makes the land of the dpe an ifland. As foou as we got round this Cape, we hauled our wind to the weftward, in order to get within the iflands, which lie fcattercd in the bay in great numbers, and extend out to fea as far as the eye could reach even from the maft-head ; thefc iflands vary botli in height and circuit from each other ; lb that, alrhoiigh they are very numerous, no two of them are alike. We had not flood long upon a wind before we came into (hoal water, and were obliged to tack at once to avoid it. Having fent a boat ahead, I bore away W. by N. many fmall iflands, rocks, and fhoals, lying between us and the main, and many of a larger extent without us : our foundings till near noon were from fourteen to feventeen fathom, when the boat made the fignal for meeting with fl\oal water : upon this we hauled clofc upon a wind to the eaftward, but fuddenly fell into three fathom and a quarter ; wc immediately dropped an anchor, which brought the fliip up with all her I'ails ftanding. When the fhip was brought up, we had four fathom, with a coarfe fandy bottom, and found a ftrong tide letting to the N. W. by W. f W. at the rate of near three miles an hour, by which we were fo fud- denly carried upon the (hoal. Our latitude, by obfer- vation, was 22 d. 8 m. S. Cape Townfliend bore E. 16 S. diftant thirteen miles ; and the weftermoft part oi tue main in light W. ^ N. At this time a great number cf iflands lay all round us. In the afternoon, having founded round the fliip, and found that there was water fufficient to carry her over the (lioal, we weighed, and about three o*^clock made fail and ftood to the weftward, as the land lay, having fent a boat ahead to found. At lix in the even- ing, we anchored in ten fathom, with a fandy bottom, at about two miles diftance from the main ; the wefter- moft part of which bore W. N. W. and a great num- ber of iflands, lyiiig a long way without us, were ftill in figbt. At CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 457 came into ce to avoid r W. by N. g between :nt without fourteen to e fignal for lauled clolb ly fell into ;ly dropped all her fails At five o'clock the next mornlnf^, tlie 29th, I fent a- Wciy the mafter with two boats to found the entrance of an inlet which bore from us weft, at about the diftance oi'a leagne, into wliich 1 intended to go with the Ihip, that I might wait a few days till the moon lliould in- creafe, and in the mean time examine the country. As foon as the Qiip could be got und^r fail, the boats made the fignal for anchorage ; upon which we ftood in, and anchored in five fathom water, about a league within the entrance of the inlet ; which, as 1 obferved a tide to flow and ebbconfiderably, I judged to be a river that ran up the country to a confiderable dillance. In this place F had thoughrs of laying the (hip afhore, and de?' ing her bottom ; I therefore landed with the mafter in fearch of a convenient place for that pnrpofe, and was accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander. We found walking here exceedingly troublefome, for the ground was covered with a kind of grafs, the feeds of which were very fharp and bearded backwards ; fo that whenever they (luck into our clothes, which, indeed, was at every ftep, they worked forwards by means of the beard, till they got at the flelh ; and at the fame time we were furrounded by a clojd of muf(niitos,which incelfantly tormented us with their flings. We foon met with feveral places where the fhip might conveniently be laid afhore ; but to our great diiiippointment we could find no frefh water. We proceeded, however, up the country, where we found gum trees like thofe that we had feen before, and obferved that here alfo the ^\im was in very fmall quantities. Upon the branches of thefe trees, and fome others, we found ants* nefts, made of clay, as big as a buihel, fomething like thofe defcribed in Sir Hans Sloan's Natural Hiftory of famai- Gi, vol. ii. page 221, tab. 258, but not fo I'moorh : the ants which inha!)ited thefe nefts were fmall, and their hodies white. But upon another fpecies of the tree we toimd a fmall black ant, '.vhich perforated all the twigs, aiKl having worked out the pith, occupied the pipe which had contained it ; yet the parts in which thelc Vol. I.— N° 12. 3 M infers 458 CAPTAIN COOK»s FIRST VOYAGE. infe£ts had thus formed a lodgment, and in which they fwarmed in amazing numbers, bore leaves and flowers, and appeared to be in as fiourifhing a ftate as tliofe that were found. We found alfo an incredible number of butterflies, fo that, for the fpace of three or four acres, the air was io crowded with them, that millions were to be iQcn in every dire«Stion, at the fame time that every branch and twig w^as covered witli others that were not upon the wing. We found here alfo a fmall fifh of a fmgular kind ; it was about the fize of a minnow, and had two very ftrong bread iins : we found it in places that were quite dry, where we liippofed it might have l)een left by the tide ; but it did not feem to have become languid by the want of water ; for, upon our approach, it leaped away, by the help of the bread fins, as nimbly as a frog : neither in- deed did it feem to prefer water to land ; for when we found it in the water, it frequently leaped out, and pur- fued its way upon dry ground : we alfo obferved that when it was in places where fmall ftones were Handing above the furface of the water at a little diftance from each other, it chofe rather to leap from ftone to ftone, ilmn to pafs through the water ; and we faw feveral of them pafs entirely over puddles in this manner, till they came to dry ground, and then leap away. In the afternoon we renewed our fearch after frefli water, but without fuccefs ; and therefore I determined to make my (lay here bu^ (hort : however, having ob- ferved from an eminence that the inlet penetrated a con- fiderable way into the cou^itfy, I determined to trace it in the morning. ^ At fun-rife on the 30th, J ^'ent afhore, and climbing a confiderable hill, I took a view of the coall and the iflands that lie ofi'it, with their bearings, having an azi- muth compafs with me for that purpofe ; but 1 obferv- ed that the needle differed very confiderably in its pofi- tion, even to thirty dei^i-ees, in fome places more, in others lefs ; and once 1 found it differ from itfelf no leis than two points in the ditlaijcc of fourteen feet. I took CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 459 up fome of the loofe ftor.es that lay upon the ground, and applied them to the needle, hut they produced no efFe^ ; and I therefore concluded tliat there was iron ore in the hills, of which I had remarked other indica- tions, both here and in the neighbouring parts. After I had made my obfervations upon the hill, I proceeded with Dr Solander up the inlet ; I fet out with the firft of the flood, and long before high-water I had advanced above eight leagues. Its breadth thus far was from two to five miles, upon a S. \V. by S. diredion ; but here it opened every way, and formed a large lake, which to the N. W. communicated with the fea ; and I not only faw the lea in this direction, but found the tide of flood coming ftrongly in from that point : I alfo ol>- ferved an arm of this lake extending to the eaftward, and it is not improbable that it may communicate with the fea in the bottom of the bay, which lies to the well ward of Cape ToWnfhend. On the fouth lide of the lake is a ridge of high hills which I was very defirous to climb ; but it being high- water, and the day far fpent, I was a- fraid of being, bewildered among the (hoals in the night, efpecially as the weather was dark and rainy ; and there- fore I made the heft of my way to the ftiip. In this cxcurfion I faw only two people, and they were at a diftance : they followed the boat along the fhorc a good way, but, the tide running ftrongly in my favour, I could not prudendy wait ror them : I faw, however, feveral fires in one direction, and fmoke in another, but thev alfo were at a diftance. While I was tracing the inlet with Dr Solander, Mr Banks was endeavouring to penetrate into the country, where feveral of the people who had leave to go aftiore were alfo rambling about Mr Banks and his party found their courfe obftrudled by a fwamp, covered with mangroves, which, however, they rciolvcd to pafs; the mud was almoft knee deep, yet they refolutely went on ; but before they got halfway, they repented of their undertaking : tne bottom was covered with 3 M 3 branches 4^o CAPTAIN COOK'5 FIRST VOYAGE. branches of trees interwoven with each other, fomctimc? they kept their toot'uig upon them, Ibmetimcs tlieir feet dipt through, and fometimes they were fo entang1e»l among them, that they were forced to free thenifelves by groping in the mud and fiime with their hands. In about an liour however they crofl'ed it, and judged it might be about a quarter of a mile over. After a Ihort walk they came up to a place where there had been four fmall tires, and near them fome (hells and bones of fifh, that had been roafted : they found alfo heaps of grafs laid together, where four or five people appeared to have flept. The Second Lieutenant, Mr Gore, who was at another place, faw a little water lying at the bot- tom of a gully, and near it the track of a large animal : fome buftards were alfo feen, but none of them fhot, nor any other bird except a few of the beautiful bri- quets which we had feen in Botany Bay. Mr Gore, and one of the midfhipmen, who were in different places, faid that they had heard the voices of Indians near them, but had feen none : the country in general appeared fandy and barren, and being deftimte of frelli water, it cannot be fuppofed to have any fettled inhabi- tants. The deep gullies which were worn by torrents from the hills, prove, that at certain feafons the rains here are very copious and heavy. The inlet in which the (hip lay, I called Thirsty Sound, becaufe it afforded us no frefh water. It lies in latitude 22 d. to m. S. and longitude 210 d. 18 m. W. and may be known by a group of fmall illands lying under the fhore, from two to hve leagues diilant, in the direction of N. W. and by another group of iflands that lie right before it, between three and four leagues out at fea. Over each of the points that form the entrance is a high round hin,which on the N. W. is a peninfula, that at nigh- water is furrounded by the lea : they are bold to both the fhores, and the dillance be- tween them is about two miles. In this inlet is good anchorage in feven, fix, five, and four fathom ; and \' - ^ places CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 461 omctimc? . their feet entangleil heinlelves amis. Ill judged it ter a Ihort had been d bones of r> heaps of e appeared Gore, who at the bot- ■ge animal: them (hot, lutiful lori- Mr Gore, in different i of Indians y in general J ate of freili [ed inhabi- iy torrents IS the rains placcR veiy convenient for laying a fhrp down, where, at I'pring-tidcs, tlie water does not rile lefs than fix- teen or eightfcn feet. The tide flows at the full and cliange of the moon about eleven o'clock. 1 have al- ready obferved that here is no frefti water, nor could v/e procure refrefliment of any other kind : we iaw two turtles, but we w^ere not able to take either of them : neither did we catch either hfh or wild- fowl, except a few fmall land-birds : we favv indeed the fame fons of water-fowl as in Botany Bay, but they were fo fliy that we could not get a ihot at them. As I had not, therefore, a (ingle inducement to (lay longer in this place, I weighed anchor at "fix o'clock in die morning of Thurfday the 31ft of May, and put to ica. We flood to the N. \V. "with a frefli breeze at S. S. E. and kept without the group of illands that lie in fiiore, and to the N. W. of Thirlty Sound, as there ap- peared to be no fafe paflage between them and the main : at the fame time we had a number of illands without us, extending as far as we could fee : during our i*un in this dirediion our depth of water was ten, eight, and nine fathom. At noon, the weft part of Thirfty Sound, v/nich I have called Pier Head, bore S. 36 E. diftant five leagues ; the eaft point of the other mlct, which communicates with the Ibund, bore S. by \V. diftant two leagues ; the group of iflands, juft mentioned, lay between us and the point, and tlie fartheft part of the main in fight, on the other fide of the inlet, bore NAV. Our latitude, by obfervation, was 2 i d. 53 m. At half an hour after twelve, the boat, whicli w^a*; founding ahead, made the (ignal for flioal water, and i we immediately hauled our wind to the N. E. At this I time we had (tvcn fathom, at the next caft hve, and at the next three, upon which we inftantly dropped an anchor, that brought the (hip up. l^icr Head, the north-weft point of Thirfty Sound, bore S. E. diftant fix leagues, being half way between the iflands which lie off the eaft point of the weftern inlet, and three fmall |iil;inds which lie diredlly without them. It was now the ^62 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. the firft of the flood, which we found to fct N. W. by W. § W. and having founded about the flioal, upon which wc had three fathom, and found deep water all round it, we p;ot under fail, and leaving hauled round the three iflands that have been juft mentioned, came to an anchor under the lee of them, in fifteen fathom wa- ter ; and the weather being dark, hazy, and rainy, wc remained there till feven o'clock in the morning of the I ft of June. At this time we get aj;ain under fail, and flood to the N. W. with a fre(h breeze at S. S. E. having the main Jane! in fight, and a number of iflands all round us, i ibihe of which lay out at fea as far as the eve could | reach. The weftern inlet, called Broad Sound, we had now all open ; at the entrance, it is at leaft nine or ten leagues wide : in it, and before it lie feveral iflands, and probably (hoals alfo ; for our foundings were very irre- gular, varying fuddenly from ten to tour fathom. A: noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 2 1 d. 29 m. S. a point of land which forms the north- weft entrance | into Broad Sound, and which I have named Caps Palmerston, lying in latitude 21 d. 30 m. longitude 210 d. 54 m. W. bore W. by N. diftai^.t three leagues, Our latitude was 2 1 d. 27 m. our longitude 2 lod. 57111. Between this Cape and Cape Townfliend lies the bay| which I have called the Bay of Inlets. We continued to ftand to the N. W. and N. W. by I N. as the land lay, under an eafy fail, having a boat ahead to found : at lirft the foundings were very irre- gular from nine to four fathom ; but afterwards they were regular, from nine to eleven. At eight in thej evening, being about two leagues from the main land, we anchored in eleven fathom, with a iandy bottom;! and foon after we found the tide fetting witli a flow motion to the weftward. I At one o'clock it was flack, or low- water ; and at half I an hour after two the fliip tended to the eaftward, anJ| rode fo till fix in the morning of the 2d, when the tidel had rifen eleven feet. We now got under fail, im ■ ftocJ thi: CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 4^3 ftofxl aw?.y in the direction of the coad N. N. W. From what we had obfervcd of the tide diirinp the night, it is plain, that tlie flood came from the N. W. whereas the preceding day, aiul leveral days before, it came from the S. E. nor was this the lirft, or even fecond time that we had remarked the fame thing. At fun rife this morning:, we found the variation to be 60 d. 45 m. E. and in leering along the ihore, be- tween the illind and the main, at the dillance of about two leagues from the main, and three or four from the ifland, our foundings were rtgular from twelve to nine fathom ; but about eleven o'clock in the forenoon we were again embarrafl'ed with llioal water, having at one time not more than three fathom; yet we got clear, without calling anchor. At noon, we were about two leagues from the main, and four from the iilands within, us. Our latitude, by obfcrvation, was 20 d. 56 m. and - a high promontory, which 1 named Cape Hillsbo- rough, bore W. \ N. diftant feven miles. The land here is diverfitied by mountains, hills, plains, and val- lies, and feems to be well clothed with herbage ai^d ' wood : the iflands which lie parallel to the coall, and . from five to eight or nine miles diftant, are of variotis ,. height and extent ; fcarcely any of them are more than five leagues in circumference, and many are not four % miles: befides this chain of iflands, which lies at a dif- tance from the coaft, there are others much lefs, which lie under the land, from which we faw finoke riling in * different places. We continued to fteer along the ihore at the drftance of about two leagues, wnth regular found- ings from nine to ten fathom. At fun-fet, the farthefl point of the main bore N. 48 W. and to the northward of this lay fome high land, which 1 took to be an ifland, and of which the north weft point bore 41 W. but not being fure of a pafiage, I came to an anchor about eight o'clock in the evening, in ten fathom water, with a muddy bottom. About ten we had a tide fettingto tlic northward^ and at two it had fallen nine feet ; after this it began to rife, and the ^ood came from the north- ward. 4^4 CAPTAIN COOK'S TlRST VOYAGE. ward, in the diredion of the iflands which lay out to ica; a plain indication that there was no pafl'<*ge to the N. W. This however had not appeared at dav-hrcak, when we pjct under iail, and Hood to the N. W. At eight o'clock the next morning, wc difcovcred low land quite acrols what we took for an opening, which proved to be a bay, about five or lix leagues deep ; upon this wc hauled our wind to the eaftward round the north Eoint of the bay, whicli at this time bore fron us N. E. y N. diftant four leagues : from this point vvv* found the land trend way N. by W. f W. and a ftreight or pailage between it and a large illand, or iflarids, lying parallel to it. Having the tide of ebb in our favour, we ilood for this naflage ; and at noon were juft within the entrance : our latitude, by obftrvation, was 20 d. 26 m. S. Cape Hillfborough bore S. by K. diOant ten leagues ; and the north point of the bay S. iq W. dilhnt four rhilef;. This point which i named Cape Conway, lies in la- titude 26 d. ^6 m. S. longitude 21 1 d. 28 m. W. and the bay which lies between this Cape and Cape Hiiif- borough I called Repulse Bay. The greattd depth of water which we found in it was thirteen fathom, and the leaft eight. In all parts there was fafe anchorage, and I believe that, upon proper examination, fome good harbours would be found in it ; efpccially at the north fide, within Cape Conway ; for jull wuhin that C^ape there lie two or three fmall iflands, which alone would fheltcr that fide of the bay from the foutherly and fouth cafterly winds that feem to prevail here as a Trade. Among the many iflands that lie upon this coaft, there is one more remarkable than the reft ; it is of a fmall circuit, very high and peaked, and lies E. by iS. ten miles from Cape Conway, at the iouth end of the paflage. In the afternoon, we fteered through this palfage, which "we found to be from three to feven miles broad, and eight or nine leagues in length, N. by W. 1 W. S. by E. f E. It is formed by the main on the weft, and by the iflands on the eaft, one of which is at leaft five leagues in length : our depth of water in running through wa3 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 46s Was from twenty to five and twenty fathonri, with good ancliora^c every where, and the whole palFaji^e may be confidercd as one fafe harbour, excUifive of the fmall bays and coves which abound on each fide, where (hips mlRht lie as in a hafon. The land both vpcn the maiu and iflands is high, and diverfified by hill and valley, wood and lawn, with a green and plcafant appearance. On one of tlie iflands we difcovertd with our glafles two men and a woman, and a canoe with an outrigger, which appeared to be larger, and of a conflrudion very different from thofe of baik tied together at the ends, which we had feen upon other partr of the coaft ; we hoped therefore that the people heiv had made fome farther advances beyond mere animal life than thofe that we had fecn before. At fix o'clock in the evening, W2 were nearly the length of the north end of the paf- fagt J the north wcftcrmoft point of the main in iight bore N. 54 VV. and the north end of the ifland N. N. E. with an open fea between the two poitits. As this pal- fage was difcovered on Whitfunday, I called it Whit- sunday's Passage, and I called the iflands that form it CuMnERLAND IsLANDS, in honour of his Royal Highnefs the Duke. We kept under an eafy fail, with the lead going all night, being at the dillance of about three leagues from the fliore, and having from twenty- one to twenty-three fathom water. At day-break of the 4th, we were abreafl of the point which had been the fartheft in iight to the north weil the evening before, which 1 named Cape Glouces- ter. It is a lofty promontory, in latitude 19 d. 59 m. S. longitude 2 1 1 d. 49 m. W. and may be known by an ifland which lies out at fea N. by W. f W. at the diftance of five or fix leagues from it, and which I called HoLBORNE Isle ; there are alfo iflands lying under the land between Holborne Ifle, and Whitfunday 's Paf- iage. On the weft fide of Cape Gloucefter the land trends away S. W. and S. S. W. and forms a deep ba]^^ the bottom of which I could but juft fee from the maft h^ad : it is very low, and a continuation of the low land Vol.1 — N» 12. 3N which a66 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. which we had fcen at the bottom of Repulfe Bay. This bay I called Edgcumbe Bay, but without flaying to look into it, we continued our courfe to the weftward, for the farthelt Imd we could fee in that dire^ion, which bore W. by N. | N. and appeared very high. Ar noon, we were about three leagues from the ihore, by obfervation, in latitude 19 d. 47 m. S. and Cape Gloucfftcr bore S. 6^ E. diftant leven leagues and an half. At (ix in the evening, we were abreaft of the weftermoft point jufl: mentioned, at about three miles diflance, and becaufe it rifcs abruptly from the low lands which furround it, I called it Cape Upstart. It lies in latitude 19 d. 19 m. S. longitude 212 d. 32 m. W. fourteen leagues \\ . N. W. from Cape Gloucefter, and is of a height fullicient to be feen at the diftance of twelve leagues : inland there are feme high hills or mountains, which, like the Cape, afford but a barren profpeft. Having pafled this Cape, we continued (landing to the \V» N. W. as the land lay, under an eafy fail, having from fijcteen to ten fathom, till two o'clock in the morn* ing of the 5th, when we fell into feven fathom ; upon which we hauled our wind to the northward, judging ourfelves to be very near land : at day-break, we found our conjefture to be true, being within little more than two leagues of it. In this part of the coaft, the land, being very low, is nearer than it appears to be, though it is diverfilied with here and there a hill. At noon, we were about four leagues from the land, in fifteen fathom water, and our latitude, by obfervation, was 19 d. 12 m. S Cape Upftart bearing S. 32 d. 30 m. K. diilant twelve leagues. About this time lome very large columns of fmoke were feen rifing from the low lands. At fun-fet, the preceding night, when we were clofc under Cape Upftarr, the variation was nearly 9 d. E. and at fun-rife this day, it was no more than 5 d. 3Jf m. I judged therefore that *.t had been influenced by iron ore, or other m ignetical matter, contained under the furface of the earth. We CAPTAIN COOK*8 FIRST VOYAGE. 4 which however were rendered very It was, however, impofTible long to continue the la- bour by which the pumps had been made to gain upon] the leafc, and as the exadi fituation of it could not bef covered we had no hope of flopping it within. In this| iituation, Mr Monkhoufe, one of my midftiipmenj came to me and propofed an expedient that he had once'feen ufed on Doard a merchant (hip, which fprung a leak that admitted above four feet water an hour, and which, by this expedient; was brought fafely from Vir- ginia to London ; the mafter having fuch confidence inl 5t, that he took her out of harbour, knowing her con- jdition, and did not think it worth while to wait till the| leak could be otherwife flopped. To this man, there* |bre, the care of the expedient, which is called fofher-l >ng the fhip, was immediately committed, four or M « CAPTAIN COpK's FIRST VOYAGE. . 47^ of the people beinp; appointed to aflift him, and h^ptV' ! formed it m this manner The took a lower rtyddiiigfail, and, having mixed together a large quantity ofoak- ham and wool, chopped pretty fmalf, he Hitched it down ill handfuls" upon the I'ail, as lightly as polliW^, and over this he fpread the dung of our Iheejj and other filth ; but horfe dunjj, if we hauhad it,woula have been better. Wlicn the iail was thus prepared, it vvas'hauled under the Ihip's bottom by ropes, which kept it ex- tended, and when it came under the leak; the fuflioii which carried in the water, carried- in with it the oak- ham and wool from the furface of the fail, which in other parts the TYater was not fufEciently agitated to wa(h off. By the fuccefs of this expedient, our leak was fo far reduced, that inftend of ^^aining upoo'thrce pumps, it was egifily kept urvder with one. This was a new fourcc of confidence and Comfort; the people could fcarcely have exprefled more joy if they had been already in port ; and their views were To far from being limited to running the fhip aftiore in' fome harbour, either of an ifland or the main, and building a velFcl out of her materials, to carry us to the Eaft Indies, which had fo lately been the utmoft objeft of our hope, that nothing was now ihought'of but ranging along the fhore in fearch of a convenient place to repair the damage fhe had fuftained, and then profecuting the voyage up- on the fame plan as if nothing had happened. Upon this occafion 1 muft obferve, both in juilice and grati- tude to the (hip's company, and the gentleman on board, that, althbugh in the midft of our diilrefi, every one feemed to have a jufl fenfe of his danger, yet no paflionate exclamations, or frantic gellur^s, were to bs heard or feen ; every one appeared to have the perfect pofleilion of his mind, and every one exerted himfelf td the uttermoft, with a quiet and patient perfcverancc, equally dirtant from- the tumultuous violence of ten'ori and the gloomy inactivity of delpair. In the mean time, having light airs at E. S. E. wc got -\ 4^o CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE, Up the i^ain-topmaft, and maip-yard, and kept edjjing in for the land, till about fix o clock in the evening, when we came to an anchor in feventeen fathom wa- tcr,.At the diftance'offeven leagues from the fhore, and one from the Ijpdge of rocks upon which We had ftruck. This ledge or fhoal lies in latitude 15 d. 45 m. S. and between fix and feven leagues from the main. It is not, however, the oijly fhoal on this part of the coaft, efpecially to the northward ; and at this t'.me vre faw one to the fouthward, the tail of which we pafled over, when we had uneven ioundings about two hours be- fore we flruck. A part of this fhoal is always above water, and has the appearance of white fand : a part al- fo of that upon which we had lain is dry at low water, and in that place confifts of fand ftones j but all the reft of it is a coral rock. While we lay at anchor for the night, we found that the fhip made about fifteen inches water an hour, from which no immediate" danger was to te apprehended j and at fix o'clock in the morning, we weighed and flood to the N. W. ftill edging in for the land with a gentle breeze at S. S. E. At nine, we pafled clofe with- out two Imall iflands that lie in latitude 15 d. 41 m. S. and about four leagues from the main : to reach thefe iflands had, in the height of our diflrefs, been the objed of our hope, or perhaps rather our wiflies, and there- lore I called them Hope Islands. At noon, we were about three leagues from the land, and in latitude 15 d. X} m. S. the northermoft part of the main in fight bore N. 30 W. and Hope Iflands extended from S. 30 E. to S. 40 E. In this fituation we had twelve fathom wa- ter, and feveral fand-banks without us. At this time the leak had not increafed ; but that we might be pre- pared for all events, we got the fail ready tor another lothering. In the afternoon, having a gentle breeze at S. E. by E. I fent put the mafter with two boats, as well to found ahead :ept edging le evening, iathom wa- ; {hore, and ;h VvQ had 5 m. S. and nain. It is Df the coaft, me vre faw paffed over, 3 hours be- Iways above d : a part al- t low water, It all the reft e found that 1 hour, from )prehended ; veighed and land with a d clofe with- - d. 41 m. S. 3 reach thefe en the objed s, and there- )on,we were atitude 15 d. in fight bore Q S. 30 E. to ; fathom wa- At this time ni^ht be pre- y tor another atS.E.byE. well to found ahead CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 481 ahead of the (hln, as to look out for a harbour wherfi. we might repair our def«.'(ft:s, and put the fhip in a pro- per trim. At three o'clock, we law an opening that nad the appearance of an harbour, and ilooa off and on while the boats exp.mined it ; but they Toon found that there was not depth of water in it fufficient for the fhip. When it was near lunfer, there being many (lioals about us, we anchored in four fathom, at the diftance of about two miles fronrithe (hore, the land extending from N. k E. to S. by E.'|-^E. The pinnace was ft ill out with one of the mates ; but at nine o'clock (lie returned, and reported, that about two leagues to leeward ftie had dif-. covered juft fuch a harbour as we wanted, in which there was a fufficient rife of water, and every other con-^] vcnience that could be deiired, either for faying the fhip alhore, or heaving her down. In confequence of this information, I w»eighed at fix o'clock in the morning of the 14th, and having fent two boats ahead, to lie upon the Ihoals that we law in. our way, we ran down to the place ; but notwithfland-. ing our precaution, we were once in three fathom wa- ter* As loon as thefe fhoals were pafTed, I fent the boats to lie in the channel that ^ d to the harbour, and by this time it began to blow. It was happy for us that a place of refuge was at hand ; for we loon found that the ihip would not work, having twice miffed ftays : our iituation, however, though it might have been much worfe* was not without danger; we were en- tiinc;led among Ihoais, and 1 had great reafon to fear being driven to leeward, before the boats could place themlelvev fo as to prefcribe our courfe. I therefore anchored in four fathom, about a mile from the flxore, and then made the lignal for the boats to come on board. When this was done, 1 went myfelf and bouyed the channel, which I found very narrow ; the harbour al- io 1 fonnd fmaller than I expedied, but moft excellently a^lapted to our purpofe ; and it is remarkable, that in the vvhole courle of our voyage we had feen no "place which, in our prefent circumftances, could have afibrd- Vol.I.~N«i3. # 3P ed / Ai2 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAG15. ^ cd us the fame relief. At noon, our latitude was 15 d. 126 m. S. During all the reft of this day, and the whole night, it hie w too freih for us to venture from our anchor and ran into the harhour ; and for our farther fecurity, we got down the top-gallant yards, unbent the mainfail and iomc of the fmall fails ; got down the fore- top- gallant maft, and the gihb-boom, and fprit-fail, with a view to lighten the fliip forwards as much as pofiible, in order to come at her leak, which we fuppofed to be fome- where in that part ; for in all the joy of our unex- pected deliverance, we had not forgot that at this time there was nothing but a lock of wool between us and deftnidlion. The gale continuing, we kept our ftation dUthe 15th. Oh the 1 6th, it was fomewhat more moderate ; and about fix o'clock in the morning, we hove the cable ihort, with a defign to get under fail, but were obliged to deiift, and veer it out again. It is remarkable that the Tea breeze, which blew frefh when we anchored, continued to do fo almoft every day while we ftayed here ; it was calm only while we were upon the rock, Except once ; and even the gale that afterwards wafted us to the (hore, would then certainly have beaten us to pieces. In the evening of the preceding day, we had ob- ferved a fire near the beach over againft us ; and as it Would be neceflary for us to ftay fome time in this place, we were not without hope of making an acquaintance with the people. We faw moie fires upon the hills to- day, and with our glafles difcovered four Ir '"ans going along the fhore, who ftopped, and made two fires ; but for what purpofe it was impoflible we Ihould gueis. The fcurvy now began to make its appearance among us, with many formidable fymptoms. Our poor Indi- an, Tupia, who had fome time before complained that his gums were fore and fwelled, arid who had taken plentifully of our lemon juice by the Surgeon s direc- tion, had now livid fpots upon his legs, and other in- dubitable tcftimonies Uiat the difcafe had made a rapid '^ , w , progrcfs, CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE, 4^3 progrefs, notwithftanding all our remedies, amonff which the bark had been liberally adminiftered. Mr Green, our aftronomer, was alfo declining ; and thefe, among other circumftances, imbittered the delay which prevented our going aOiore. } In the morning of the 17th, though the wind was ftill frefh, we ventured to weigh, and pufli in for the harbour; but in doing this we twice run the (hip aground : the firft time fhe went off without any trou- ble, but the fecond time {he (luck faft. We now got down the fore-yard, fore top-mafts, and booms, and taking them overboard, made a raft of them alonefide of the (hip. The tide was happily rifmg, and about one o'clock in the afternopn, me floated. We foon warped her into the harbour, and, having moored her alongfide of a fteep beach to the fouth, we got the an^ chors, cables, and all the hawfers on (hore before night. . 3? 2 Tranp> \u CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. ii Tranfi^ions while the Ship- was refitting in Endeavour River : A Defcription of the adjacent Country^ its Iti" habitants^ and Produ^ions, IN the morning of Monday the 1 8th, a ftage was made from the (hip to the (here, which was fo bold that ihe floated at twenty feet diltance : two tents were alio fet up, one for the fick, and the other for ftores and provifions, which were landed in the courfe of the day. We alfo landed all the empty water caiks, and part of the ftoies. As foon as the tent for the Tick was got ready for their reception, they were fent afhore, to the number of eight or nine, and the boat was difpatchcd to haul the feine, in hopes of procuring fome tilli for their refreihment ; but ihe returned without ibccei's. In the mean time, I climbed one of the higheft hills among thofe that overlooked the harbour, which af- forded by no means a comfprtable profpe^Sl : the low land near the river is wholly over-run with mangroves, among which the falt-watcr flows every tide ; and the high land appeared to be every wliere ftony and bar- ren, in the mean time, Mr Bknks had alfo taken a walk up the country, and met with the frames of leveral old Indian houfes, and places where they had clreflTed ihell- fifh; but they fcemed not to have been frequented for fbme months. Tuj)ia, who had employed himfelf in angling, and lived intircly upon what he caught, re- covered in a furpriling degree ; but Mr Green itill con- tinued to be extremely ill. The next morning 1 got the four remaining guns out of the hold, and mounted them upon the quarter-deck; 1 alfo got a fpare anchor, and anchor-ftock aihorc, and the remaining fart of the ftores and ballaft that were in >e that he could ngt get 1 within reach of them. On the 20th, wc landed the powder, and got. out the I ftone ballad and vvood, which brought the Ihip's draught of water to eight feet ten inches forward, and thirteen feet abaft; and this, I thought, with the difference that would be made by trimming the coals aft, would be fufficient ; for F found that the water rofe and fell per- pendicularly eight feet at the fpring tides : but as loon as the coals were trimmed from over the leak, we coiilti hear the water rufh in a little abaft the foremaft, about I three feet from the keel r this determined me to clear the hold intirely. This evening, Mr Banks obferved I that in many parts of the inlet there were large quanti- jties of pumice ftones, which lay at a conliderable iliftance above high- water mark ; whither they might have been carried either by the frelhes or extraordina- ry high tides, for there could be no doubt but that they I came from the fea. 7'he next morning wc went early to work, and by four o'clock in the afternoon had got out all the coals, call the moorings loofe, a,nd warped the lliip a little higher up the harbour to a place, which I thought moil convenient for laying her alhore in order to ftop the leak. Her draught of water forward was now fcven I feet nine inclics, and abaft tl;i! reen feet fix inches. At ciglit i^: 4S6 CAPTAIN COQK's FIRST VOYAGE. eight o'clock, it being high- water, I hauled her bow dole afhore; but kept her ftern afloat, becaufe I was afraid of neiping her ; it was, however, neceflary to I lay the whole of her as near the ground as pofUble. At two o*clock in the morning of the 22d, the tide I left her, and gave us an opportunity to examine the leak, which w-e found to be at her floor heads, a little before the llarboard fore-chains. In this place the rocks | had made their way through four planks; and even in- to the timbers ; three more planks were much damaged, | and the appearance of thefe breaches was very extraor- dinary : there was not a fplinter to be feen, but all was as fmooth as if the whole had been cut away hy an in- ftrument : the timbers in this place were happdy very clofe, and if they had not, it would have been abfolute- ly impoffible to nave faved the Ihip. But, after all, her prefervatton depended upon a circumftance ftill more remarkable : one of the holes, which was big enough to have funk us, if we had had eight pumps inftead of I four, and been able to keep them inceUantly going, was in a great mcafure plugged up by a fragwk^nt of the rock which, after having made the wound, was left flicking | in it ; lb that the water which at firfl: had gained upon | our pumps, was what came in at the interflices, between the ftone and the edges of the hole that received it. We found alfo fcvcral pieces of the fothering, which had made their way between the timbers, and in a great meafure flopped thofe parts of the leak which the lionc had left open. " Upon further examination, we found that, belides the leak, confiderable damage had been done fee the bottom ; great part of the Iheathin;;; was gone from under the larboard bow ; a coniiderable part of the falfe keel was alfo wanting, and thefe indeed wc had feen fwim away in fragments from the veflTeljWhile ihe lay beating againft: the rock : the remainder of it was in fo fhattered a cx)ndition that it had better have been gone, and the fore foot and main keel were alfo damaged, but not fo as to produce any immediate dan- ger : what damage fhe might have received abaft could ' . m CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 4«f ot yet be exactly known, but we had reafon to think t was not much, as but little water made its way into er bottom, while the tide kept below the leak which as already been defcribed. By nine o'clock in the orning, tne carpenters got to work upon her, while the miths were bufy in making bolts and nails. In the mean ime, fome of the people were fent on the other iule of the water to (hoot pigeons for the Tick, who, at their return, reported that they had feen an animal as large as a greyhound, of a flender make, a moule colour, and extremely fwift ; they difcovered alfo many Indian houfes, and 2^ fine ftream of frelli water. The next morning, the 23d, I fent a boat to haul the feine ; but at noon it returned with only three fiQi, and yet we faw them in plenty leaping about the harbour. This day the carpenter finiflied the repairs that were ncceflary on the ftarboard fide ; ^nd at nine o'clock in the evening, we heeled the fliip the other way, and hauled her off about two feet for rear of neiping. This day almoft every body had feen the animal which the pigeon-fliooters had brought an account of the day be- fore ; and one of the feamcn, who had been rambling in the woods, told us at his return, that he verily be- lieved he had feen the devil : we naturally inquired in what form he had appeared, and his anfwcr was in (6 lingular a ftyle, that 1 (hall fet down hrs own words ; ** He was, fays John, as large as a one gallon keg, and " very like it.; he had horns and wings, yet he crept fo " flowly through the grafs, that, if I had not been afeard^ " I might have touched him." This formidable appa- rition we afterwards difcovered to have been a bi^t ; and the bats here muft be acknowledged to have a frightful appearance, for they are nearly black, and full as large as a partridge ; they have no horns, but the fancy of a man who thought he faw the devil might eafily lupply that defed. Early on the 24th, the carpenters began to repair the iheathing under the larboard bow, where we found two planks cut about half through ; and in the meau time 498 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. time I fent a partv of men, under the diredion of Mr Gorcj in fearch or refrefliments for the fick : this par- ty returii^d about noon with a few palm cabbages, and a bunch or two of wild plantains j the plantains were the {mailed I had ever leen, and the pulp, though it was well tufted, was full of fmiill ftones. As 1 was walking this morning at a little diftance from the fhip, I faw myfelf one of the animals which had been fo often defcribed ; it was of a lijjht moufe colour, and in (izc and (hape very much rclembling a greyhound ; it had a long tail alfo, which it carried like a greyhound ; and 1 fhould have taken it for a wild dcQ, if, inflead of run- ning, it had not leapt like a hare or deer : its legs were faid to be very (lender, and the print of its foot to be like that of a goat ; but where I faw it the grafs was fo high that the legs were concealed, and the ground was too hard to receive the track. Mr Banks alfo had an imper- fect view of this anima^ and was of opinion that its fpe- cies was hitherto unknown. After the (hip was hauled aHhore, all the water that came into her of courfe went backwards ; fo that aK though ihe was dry forward, (he had nine feet water abaft : as in this part, therefore, her bottom could not be examined on the infide, i took the advantage of the tide being out this evening to get the mafter aii J „two of the men to go under her, and examine her whole larboard fide without. They found the (heathing gone about the floor heads abreaft of the main- mart, and part of the plank a little damaged ; but all agreed that (he had received no other material injury. The lofs of her iheathing alone was a great misfortune, as the worm would now be let into her bottom, which might ex- pofe us to great inconvenience and danger ; but as I knew no remedy for the mifchief but heaving her down, which would be a work of immenfe labour and j long time, if practicable at all in our pfefent fituation, I was obliged to be content. The carpenters, however,! continued to work under her bottom m the evening tillj they were prevented by the tide j the morning tide did! • nor CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 489 of Mr is par- is, ami 3 were )Ugh it I was le (hip, *o often ill iizc ; it had id ; and of run- gs were ) be like fo higH was too 1 imper- titsfpe- iter that that al" et water n could .ntage of ifter aiid er whole ng gone and part that (he ffsofher ,e worm light ex- Ibut as I ing her I ►our and fituationJ loweverj ;ning tiill tide dldj • not not chb out far enough to permit them to work at all, for wc had onl)' one tolerable high and low tide in four and twcnt/ hours, as indeed we had experienced Avlsen we lay upon the rock. The pofition or the fliip, which threw the v/ater in her abaft, was^ very near de- priving the world of all the knowledge: which Mr Banks had endured fo much labour, and fo many rifks to pro- cure; for he had removed the curious collection of plants which he made during the whole voyage, into the bread room, which lies in the after part of the fhip, as a place of the greateft fecurity ; and nobody having thought of the danger to which laying her head lo much higher than the ftern would expofe them, they were this day found under water. Mod of them, how- ever, were, by indefatigable care and attention, reftored to a ftate of prefervation, but fome were entirely fpoilt and (ieftroyed. The 25th was employed in filling water and over- hauling the rigging, and at low w^ater the carpenters finilhed the repairs under the larboard bow, and every other place which the tide would permit them to come at ; fome cafks were then lafhed under her bows to fa- cilitate her floating, and at night, when it was high wa- ter, we endeavoured to heave her off, but without fuc- cefs, for fome of the cafks that were lathed to her gavs way. The morning of the 26th was employed in getting more cafks ready for the fame purpofe, and in the after- noon we lafhed no lefs than eight and thirty under the lliip's bottom, but, to our great mortification, thefe al- io ])roved ineffelenty of the cabbage trees Vol.J.-~No 13. 3 0. which 490 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. which have occafionally been mentionetl before, a kind of wild plantain, the fruit of which was fo full of ftoncs, as fcarcely to be eatable ; another fruit was alfo found about the lize of a finall golden pippin, but flatter, and of a deeper colour : when firft gathered from the tre« it was very hard and difagreeable, but after being kept a few days became foft, and tailed very much like an in- different damafcene. The next morning, the 27th, we began to move fome of the weight from the after-part ot the fhip for- ward, to eafe her ; in the mean time the armourer con- tinued to work at the forge, the carpenter was bufy in caulking the iliip, and the men employed in filling wa^ ter and over-hauling the rigging ; in the forenoon, I went myfcif in the pinnace up the harbour, and made feveral hauls with the feine, but caught 'only between twenty and thiny fiih, which were given to the lick and convalefcent. On the 28th, Mr Banks went with fome of the Tea- men up the country, to (hew them the plant which in the Weft Indies is called Indian kale, and which ferved us for greens. Tupia "had much meliorated the root of the coccos, by giving them a long drelfing in his coun- try oven, but they were fo fmall that we did not think ihem an objed for the fhip. In their walk they found one tree which had been notched for the convenience of climbing it, in the fame manner with thofe we had feen in Botany Bay : they fa w alfo many nells of white ants, which refemble thole of the Eaft Indies, the moft pernicious infeds in the world. The nells were of a pyramidical figure, from a few inches to lix feet high, and very much refembled the Hones in England, which are faid to be monuments of the Druids. Mr Gore, who was alfo this day four or five miles up the country, reported that he had feen the footlleps of men, and tracked animals of three or four different forts, but had not been fortunate enough to fee either man or bead. At two o'clock in the morning of the 29th, I qj^ferv- cd, in conjundjpen with Mr Green, an enicrixon of Ju- Jm ' '"piters CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 4f« piter's fir ft fatellite ; the time here was 2 h. i8 m. 53 f. which gave the longitude of tliis place 2i4d. 42 m. 10 f. W. its latitude is 15 d. 26 m. S. At break of day, llbnt the boat out again with the feine, and in the af- ternoon, it returned with as much fifh as enabled mc lo give every man a pound and an half. One of my mid(hinmen, an American, who was this day abroad with his gun, reported thnt he had feen a v/olf, exadly like thofe which he had been ufed to fee in his own country, and that he had fliot at it, but did not kill it. The next morning, encouraged by the fuccefs of the day before, I fent a boat again to Iiaul the feine, and another party to gather greens : I fent alfo fome of the young gentlemen to take a plan of the harbour, and went myfelf upon a hill, which lies over the foiith point, to take a view of the fea. At this time it was low wa- ter, and I faw, with great concern, innumerable fand banks and fhoals lying all along the coaft, in every di- rection. The innermoft lay about three or four miles from the fhore, the outermoft extended as far as I could fee with my glafs, and many of them did but juft rife above water. There ^vas fome appearance of a paflage to the northward, and I had no hope of getting clear but in that direction, for as the wind blows conftantly from the S. E. it would have been difficult, if not im- poffible, to return back to the fouthward. Mr Gore reported, that he had this day feen two ani- mals like dogs, of a ftraw colour, that they ran like a hare, and were about the fame fize. In the afternoon, the people returned from hauling the feine, with ftili better fuccefs than before, for I was now able to diftri- bute two pounds and an half to each man : the greens that had been gathered 1 ordered to be boiled among the peas, and they made an excellent mefs, which, with two copious uipplies of fifti, afforded us unfpeakable rc- freOiment. The next day, July the .ift, being Sunday, every body had liberty to go aftiore, except one from each mels, who were agam fent out with the feine. The 3 0^2 ^ feiae B 49i CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. fcine was again equally fucccl'sful, and the people who went lip the country gave an account of having feeii feveral animals, though none of them were to be caught. They faw a fire alio about a mile up the ri- ver, and Mr Gore, the Second Lieutenant, picked up the hufk of a cocoa nut, which had been caft upon tlic beach, and was full of barnacles : this probably might come from fome ifland to windward, perhaps from the Terra del Efpirito Santo of Quiros, as we were now in the latitude where it is faid to lie. This dav the ther- mometer in the fhade role to 87, which was hfgher than it had been on any day lince we came upon this coaft. Early the next morning, I fent the mafter in the pinnace, out of the harbour, to found about the fi^oals m the offing, and look for a channel to the northward : at this time we had a breeze from the land, which con- tinued till about nine o'clock, and was the firfl we had had fince our coming into the river. At low water we laflied fome empty cafks under the fliip's bows, having fome hope that as the tides were rifmg fhe would float the next high- water. We ftill continued to li(h with great fuccefs, and at high-water we again attempted to heave the fhip off, but our utmoft efiorts were llili iii- effeftual. • The next day at noon, the 3d, the mafter returned, and reported that he had found a paffage out to fea be- tween the fhoals, and defcribed its utuation. The (hoals, he faid, conlifted of coral rocks, many of which were dry at low water, and * ipon one of which he had been afhore. He found here fome cockles of fo enormous a fize, that one of them was more than tw' o men could eat, and a great variety of other (hell-filh, of which he brought us a plentiful fupply ; in the evening, he had alfo landed in a bay about three leagues to the northward of our ftation, where he difturbed fome of the natives who were at fupper ; they all fled with the greateft pre- cipitation at his approach, leaving fome frelh Tea eggs, and a fire ready kindled behind them, but there was neither houfe nor hcvel near the place. We obferved, that CAPTAIN COOlC'a riRST VOYACK. 493 lliat although the Ihoals thatlicjufliii fight of tlie coaO:, abound with ihtll-iirti, which may be caiily caught at low water ; yet we i'aw no fuch (hells about the fire- places on iliorc. This clay an allegator was feeii to fwim about the fliin for fon^e time, and at high-water we made another efibrt to float her ; which happily fuc- ceedetl : wc found, however, that, by lying ib long with her head aground and her ftern afloat, (he had i'prung a plank between d^fcks, abreaft of tlie main chams, 1q that it was become neceflary to lay her afliore again. The next morning, the 4th, was employed in trim- ming her upon an even keel, and in the afternoon, hav- ing warped her over, and waited for liigh-water, we laid her alhore on the fand bank on the fouth lide of the river, for the damage (he had received already from the great defcent of the ground, made me afraid to lay her broad-fidc to the (hore in the fame place from whicn we had jull floated her. 1 was now very delirous to make another trial to come at her bottom, where the flieathing had been rubbed off, but though flie had fcarcely four feet water under her, when the tide was out, yet that part was not dry. On the 5th, I got one of the ea.-penter's crew, a man ill whom 1 could conlide> to go down again to the fhip's bottom, and examine the place. He reported, that three ftreaks of the (heathing, about eight feet long, were wanting, and i hat the main plank had been a little rubbed ; this account perfedly agreed with the report of the mailer and others, who had been imder her bottom before ; 1 had the comfort, however, to find the carpen- ter of opinion that this wouIq be of little confequence, and therefore, ^he other damage being repaired, (he was again floated at high- water, and moored along-fide the beach, where the ftores had been depofited : we then went to work to take the fl:ores on beard, and put her in a condition for the fea. This day, Mr Banks croffed to the other fide of the harbour, where, as he walked along a faudy beach, he found 494 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. found innumerable fruitfi, and many t>f them fuch as no plants which he had dircovered in this country pro- cJuced : amonpj others were feme cocoa nuts, which Tupia faid had been opened by a kind of crab, which from his defcription we judged to be the fame that the Dutch call Beurs Krahhe^ and which we had not feen in thefe feas. All the vegetable fubftances which he found in this place, were encrufted with marine productions, and covered with barnacles ; a fure fign that they mull have come far by fee, andy as the trade-wind blows right upon the (bore, probably from Terra del Efpirito Santo, which has been mentioned already. The next morning, the 6ih, Mr Banks, with Lieu- tenant Gore, and three men, fet out in a fmall boat up the river, with a view to fpend two or three days in an cxcurfion, to examine the country, and kill fomeof the animals v;hich had been fo often ieen at a diftance* On the 7th, I fent the Matter again out to found about tiie (hoals, the account which he had brought me of a channel being by no means fatisfadory ; and we fpent the remainder of this day, and the morning of the next, in fifhing, and other qeceflary occupations. About four o'clock in the afternoon of the 6th, Mr Banks and his party returned, and gave us an account of their expedition. Having proceeded about three leagues among fwamps and mangroves, they went up into the country, which they found to differ but little from what they had ieen before . they purfued their courfe therefore up the river, which at length was contrs^^dcd into a nar- row channel, and was bounded, not by fwampc and mangroves, but by deep banks, that were covered with trees of a moft beautiful verdure, among which was that which in the Weft Indies is called Moh'oe^ or the bark tree, the hibifcus tiUaceus ; the land within wa| in gene- rallciv, and had a thick covering of long-grafs : the foil feemed to bt fuch as promifed great fertility, to any who ihould j)lant and improve it. In tiie courfe of Uie day, Tupia faw an animal, which, by his defcription, Mr BanVs judged to be a wolf; thfyalfo faw three other aniraali, CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. APS animals, but could neither catch nor kill one of them, and a kind of bat, as large as a partridge, but tius alib eluded all their diligence and (kill. At night, they took up their lodging dole to the banks of the river, and made a fire, but the mufquitos fwarni^d about them in fuch numbers, that their quarters were almoft untenable; they followed them into the fmoke, and almoil into the fire, which, hot as the climate was, they could betier endure than the ftings of thefe infedls, which were an intolerable torment. The fire, the flies, and the want of a better bed than the ground, rendered the night ex- tremely uncomfortable, fo that they pafled it not in fleep, but in reftlefs wilhes for the return of day. With the firll dawn they fet out in fearch of game, and in a walk of many miles, they faw four animals of the fame kind» two of which Mr Banks's greyhound fairly chaced, but they threw him out at a great diftance, by leaping over the long thick grais, which prevented iiis running : this animal was obferved not to run upon four le^s, but to bound or hop forward upon two, like the Jcrbua^ or Mus Jaculus, About noon, they returned to the boat, and again proceeded up the river, which was foon con- traded into a frefli water brook, where, however, the tide rofe to a confidcrable height : as evening approach- ed, it b:came lov; water, and it was then {o ihallow that they were obliged to get out of the boat and drag her along, till they could find a place in which they might, with fome hope of reft, pafs the night. Such a place at length offered, and while they were j^etting the things out of the boat, they obferved a fmoke at the diftance of about a furlong ; as they did not doubt but that fome of the natives, with whom thev had fo long and earneftly delired to become perfonally acquainted, were about the tire, three of the party went immediately towards it, hoping that fo fmall a number would not put them to flight : when they came up to the place, however, they found it deferted, and therefore they conjedured that be- fore they had difcovered the Indians, the Indians had diCcovered them. They fcu2:d the lire ftill burning, m the 49^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. lu the hollow of an old tree that was become touch-^vond, | and feveral branches of trees newly broken down, with which children appeared to have been playing : they obferved alfo many foot-fteps upon the fand, beldW high-water mark, which were certain indicatiors that the Indians had been recently upon the fpot. Several houfes were found at a little diitance, and fome ovens dug in the ground, in the fame manner as thole of | Otaheite, in which victuals appeared to have been dref- fed fmce the morning, and, Icattered about them, lay feme lliells of a kind .of clam, and fome fragments of roots, the refufe of the meal. After regretting their uii- appointment, they repaired to their quarters, which was a broad ilmd hank, u:ider the fhelter of a bu(h. Their beds were plantain leaves,, which they fpr "' upon the fand, and which were as foft as a m? : their cloaks ferved them for bed-clothes, and ibme bunches of grafs for pillows : with thefe accommoda- tions they hoped to pafs a better night than the laft, efpecially as, to their great comfort, not a mufquito was to be fcen. Here then tiiey lay down, and, fncb is the force of habit, they ref igned themfelves to llecp, without once reftedling upon the probability and dan- ger of being found by the Indinns m that fituation. If this appears (Irange, let us for a moment refled, that every danger, and every calamity, after a time becomes familiar, and loies its effect upon the mind. If it were poflible that a man fliould firft be made ac- quainted with his mortality, or even with the^ inevita- ble debility and infirmities of old age, when his under- {landing had arrived at its full ftrength, and life was en- deared by the enjoyments of youth, and vigour, and health, with what an agony of teri-or and diftrefs would the intelligence be received ! yet, being gradual- ly acquainted with thefe mournful truths, by infenlible degrees, we fcarce know when they lofe all their force, pproach of old age and , unknown defert did of and we think no more of the death, than tliefe wanderers Qf CAPTAIN eOOK's FIRST VOYAGE. 497 of a lefs obvicvs and certain evil, the approach of the native favages, at a time when they muft have fallen an eafy prey to their malice or their fears. And it is re- markable, that the greater part of thofc who have been condemned to fufFer a violent death, have flept the night immediately preceding their execudon, though there IS perhaps nO inftartce of a p^rfon accufed of a capital crime having flept the firll night of his confinement. Thus is the evil of life in fome degree a remedy for it- felf, and though every man at twenty deprecates four- fcore, almoft every man is as tenacious of life at four- fcore, as at twenty ; and if he does not fufFer under any painful diforder, lofes as litde of the comforts that re- main by ieflediing that he is upon the brink of the grave,where the earth already crumbles under his feet, as he did of the pl'eafures of his better days, when his difTolution, though certain, was fuppofed to be at a diftance. Our travellers, having flept without once awaking till the morning, examined the river, and finding the tide favoured their return, and the country promifed nothing worthy of a farther fearch, they reimbarked in their boat, and made the beft of their way to ine (hip. Soon after the arri-. j\ of this party, the mafler alio returned, having been feven leagues out to fea, and he was now of opinion, that there was no getting out \ Irere before he thought there had been a pafTage ; his i'A\K:dition, however, was by no means without its ad- :i'Lt. tje, for having been a fecond time upon the rock where he had feen the large cockles, he met wiili a great number of turde, three of which he caught, that together ^^^eighed feven hundred and ninety-one pounds, though he had no better inflruraent than a boat liook. The next morning, therefore, I fent him out again, with proper inflruments for taking them, and Mr Banks went with him, but the fucceft did not at all an- iw«»r our expectations, for, by the imaccountable con- duct of the officer, not a fingle tuitle was taken, nor could he be perfuadcd to return : Mr Banks, however, Vol.1.— N" 13. R went 49« CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. went afliore upon the reef, where he faw feveral of the large cockles, and» having colledled many fhells and marine produdlions, he returned at eleven o'clock at night, in his own fmall boat, the mafter ftill continu- ing with tlie large one upon the rock. In the after- noon, feven or eight of the natives had appeared on the fouth fide of the river, and two of them came dow^n to the fandy point, oppofite to the (hip ; but, upon fee- ing me put off in the boat to fpeak with them, they all fan away with the greateft precipitation. As the mafter continued abfent with the boat all night, I was forced to fend the Second Lieutenant for him, iearly in the corning of the loth, in the yawl ; and foon after four 6f J tives appeared upon the fandy point, on the north ficic jf the river, having with them a fmall wooden catioe, with outriggers : they feemed, for fome tin.e, to be bufily employed in ftriking fifh : fome of our people were for going over to them in a boat, but this I would by no means permit, repeated experience having convinced me that it was more likely to prevent than procure an interview. I was determined to try what could be done by a contrary method, and ac- cordingly let them alone, without appearing to take the leaft notice of them : this fucceeded fo well, that at length two of them came in the canoe within a mufkeC Ihot of the fliip, and there talked a great deal in a very loud tone : we underftood nothing that they faid, and therefore could anfwer their harangue only by fhouting and making all the figns of invitation and kindnefs that we could devife. During this conference, they came infeniibly nearer and nearer, holding up their lances, not in a threatening manner, but as if to intimate that if we offered them any injury^ they had weapons to re- venge it. When they were almoft along-fide of us, we threw them fome cloth, nails, beads, paper, and other trifles, which they received without the leaft ap- pearance of fatisfa£lion : at laft, one of the people hap- pened to throw a fmall fifti ; at this they exprefTed the greateft joy imaginable, and, intimating, by figns, that they CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. A9f they would fetch their companions, immefliately pad- dled away towards the fiiore. In the mean time lome of our people, and among them Tupia, landed ca the oppofite fide of the river: the canoe, with all the four Indians, '^ery foon returned to the fhip, and came quite along-fide, without exprefling any fear or diftruft. We diftributed fome more preients among them, and foon after they left us, and landed on the fame fide of the river where our people had gone aftiore: every man carried in his hand two lances, and a ftick, which is ufed in throwing them, and advanced to the place where Tupia and the reft of our people were fitting ; Tupia foon prevailed upon them to lay down their arms, and come forward without them : he then made figns that they fhould fit down by him, with which they complied, and feemed to be under no apprehenlion or conftraint : feveral more of us then going aOiore, they cxprefled fome jealoufy left we fhould get between them and their arms ; we took care, however, to (hew them that we ha>l no fuch intention, and, having joined them, we made them fome more prefents, as a farther teftimony of our good-will, and our defire to obtain theirs. We continued together, with the utmoft cordiality, till din- ner time, and then, giving them to under ftand that we were going to eat, we invitedthem, by iigns, to go with us ; this, however, they declined, and as Toon as we left them, they went away in their canoe. One of thefe men was fome what above the middle age, the other three were young ; they were in general of the common ftatuie, but their limbs were reinark- ably fmall ; their fkin was of the colour of wood foot, or what would be called a dark chncolate colour ; their hair was bkck, but not woolly ; it was (hort cropp dj in fome lank, and in others curled. Datnpierfays, that the people whom he faw on the weftern coaft of this country, wanted two of their fore-teeth, but "hefe had no fuch defe£t : fome part of their bodies had been painted red, and the upper lip and breaft of one of, ihew was painted with ftreuks of \YWte, which he call- 3R « . ed So« CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. cd Carhanda ; their features were far from difagreeable, their eyes were lively, andMieir teeth even and white, their voices vvere fott and tuneable, and they repeated many words after us with great facility. In the night, Mr Gore and the Mailer returned with the long-boat, and brought one turtle and a few (hcll-fifh. The yawl had been left upon the fhoal with fix men, to make a farther trial for turde. The next morning, we had a vifit from four of the natives ; three of them h*.d been with us before, but the fourth was a flranger, whofe name, as we learnt from his companions who introduced him, was.YAPARico. This gentleman was dillinguifhed by an ornament of a very ftriking appearance : it was the bone of a bird, nearly. as thick as a man's finger, and five or fix inches long, which he had thurft into a hole, made in the griftle that divides the noftrils; of this we had feen one in- ftance, and only one, in New Zealand ; but upon exn amination, we found that among all thefe people this part of the nofe was perforated, to receive an ornament of the fame kind : they liad alfo holes in their ears, though nothing was then hanging to them, and had bracelets upon the upper part of their arms, made of plaited hair, fo that, like the inhabitants of Terra del tuego, they feem to be fond of ornament, though they are abfolutely without apparel; and one of them, to whom I had given part of an old (hirt, inftead of throw- ing it over any part of his body, tied it as a fillet round his head. They brought with them a fifh, which they gave us, as we fuppofed, in return for the fifli that we had given them the day before. They feemed to be much pleafed, and in no hafte to leave us, but feeing fome of our gendemen examine their canoe with great curiofity and attention, they were alarmed, and jpmping immediately into it, paddled away without i'peaking a word. About two the next morning, the 1 2th, the yawl, which had been left upon the (hoal, returned with three guides and a large ikeat. As it feemed now probable thai CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 501 that this fifliery might l)e profecuted with advantage, I fent her out again, after brcakfsft, for a further fuppiy. Soon after, three Indians ventured down to Tupia's tent, and were fo well pleafed with their reception, that one of them went with the canoe to fetch two others whom we had n^cver feen : when he returned, he introduced the ftrangers by name, a ceremony which, upon fuch occafions, was never omitted. As they had received the fiQi that was thrown into their canoe, ^when they firft approached the (hip, with fo much pleafure, fome fifli was offered to ihem now, and we were greatly fur- prized to fee that it was received with the greateft indit- fercnce : they made figns, however, to fome of the peo- ple, that they fhould drefs it for them, which was im- mediately done, but after eating a little of it, Ihey threw the reft to Mr Banks's dog. They ftaid with us all the forenoon, but would never venture above twenty yards from their canoe. We now perceived that the colour of their fkin was not fo dark as it appeared, what we had taken for their complexion, being the effedls of dirt and fmoke, in which, we imagined, they contrived to fleep, notwithftanding the heat of the climate, as the only Lie.^ns in their power to keep off the mufquitos. Among other things that we had given them when we firft faw them, w§re fome medals, which we had hung round their necks by a riband ; and thefe ribands were fo changed by fmoke, that we could not eafily diftinguiili of what colour they hs^d been : this incident led us more narrowly to examine the colour of their Ikin. While thefe people were with us, we fkw two others on the point of land that lay on the oppofite fide of the river, at the diftance of about two hundred yards, and by our glafles difcovered them to be a woman and a boy ; the woman, like the reft, being ttark naked. We obferved, that all of them were remarkably clean-limbed, and ex- ceedingly active and nimble. One of thefe ftrangers had a necklace of (hells, very prettily made, and a brace- let upon his arm, formed of feveral ftrings, fo as to rc- iemble what ia England is called gyxnp : both of them r. - ' ■•■':■ ^- ■ ■•. ••■ ' ' ' ^ad( 502 CAPTAIN COOICs FIRST VOYAGE. had a pieee of bark tied over the forehead, and were dif- figured by the bone in the nofc. We thought their lan- guage more harlh than that of the Iflanders in the South Sea, and they were continually repeating the vjord chcrcau^ which we imagined to be a term expref- iing admiration, by the manner in which it was utter- ed : they alfo cried out when they faw any thing new, cbcr^ tut^ iut^ tut, tut ! which probably had a fimiiar fig- niiication. Their canoe was not above ten feet long, and very narrow, but it was fitted with an outrigger, much like thofc of the iflands, though in every reiped very much inferior : when it was in Ihallow water, they fet ix. on v^ith poles, and when in deep, thf^y worked it with paddles about four feet long : it contained jult four people, fo that the people wlio viiited us to-day went away at two turns. Their lances were like thofe that we had feen in Botany Bay, except that they had but a fingle point, which in fome of them was the fling of the ray, and barbed with two or three fliarp bones of the iame fifh : it was indeed a moft terrible weapon, and the inftrument which they ufed in throwing it, feemed to be formed with more art than any we had jfcen before. About twelve o'clock next day, the yawl returntd, with another turtle, and a large fting-ray, apd in the evening, was fent out again. The next morning, the 14th, two of the Indiana came on board, but after a fhort ftay, went along the (hore, and applied themfelves with great diligence to the ftriking of fifh. Mr Gore, who went out this day with his gun, had the good fortune to kill one of the animals which had been fo much tKe fubje£t of our ipcculation. In form, it is mod like the gerbua, which it alfo refembles in its motion, as has been obferved al^ ready, but it greatly differs in lize, the gerbua not being larger than a common rat, and this animal when full ^rown, being as big as a fheep : tiiis individual was a young one, much under its full growth, weighing only thirty-eight pounds. The head, neck, and fhoulders, ^e very fmall in proportioa to the other parts of the . body I CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. S<^J body ; the tall is nearly as long as the body, thick near the rump, and tapering towards the end : the fore legs of this hidividual were Only eight inches long, and the hind legs two and twenty : its progrel's is by ilicccfTive leaps or hops, of a great lenj^tb, in an ereft pofture : the fore legs are kept bent cloib to the hreaft, and fecmcd to be of ufe only for digging : the {kin is covered with a fliort fur, of a dark moul'e or grey colour, excepting the head and ears, which hear a flight refemblance to thofe of a hare. This animal is called by the natives Kanguroo. The rfext day, the 1 5th, our Kanguroo was drefied for dinner, and proved moil: excellent meat ; v^e might now indeed be faid to fare fumptuoufiy every day, for wc had turtle in great plenty, and we all agreed that thev were much better than any we had taftcd in England, which we imputed to their being eaten frefh from the fea, before their natural fat had been wafted, or their juices changed by a diet and fituation fo different from what the fea affords them, as garbage and a tub. Moft of thofe that we caught here, were of the kind called greeu turtle, and weighed from two to three hundred weight, and when thefe were killed, they were always found to be full of turtle grafs, which our naturalilU took to be a kind of conferva : two of them wre logger- heads, the flelh of which was much lefs deUcious, and in their ftomachs nothing was to be found but Ihells. In the morning of the i6th, v/hile the people were employed as uiual in getting the fhip ready for the fea, I climbed one of the hills on the north fide of the river, from which I had an extenfive view of the inland coun- try, and found k agreeably diverfified by hills, vallie^J, and large plains, which in many places were richly covered with wood. This evening we dbferved an emerfion of Jupiter's firft fatellite, which gave 214 d. S^ lu. 45 f. of longitude. The obfervation which wa» made on the 29th ot June gave 2 14 d. 42 m. 30 f. the mean is 214 d. 48 hl 7I f. the longituae of tjiis|^ace weft of Greenwich. Oa 40S CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. On tile i 7th, I lent the mafter and one of the mate's in the pinnace to look for a channel to the northward ; and I went liiyfclf with Mr Banks and Dr Solander in- to the wo(hIs on the other fide of the water. Tupia, who ha-l heen thither hv himfelf, reported, that he had feen th; lc Indians wlio fiad given him fome roots about as thick as a man's finger, in fhape not milch unHke a rhadilh, and of a very agreeable taftc. This induced us to go over, hoping that ive ftiould be able to improve our acquaintance with the natives ; in a very little time we difcovered four of them in a canoe, who as foon as they faw us, came aftiore, and, though they were all ftrangers, walked up to us, without any figns of fufpi- cion or fe^- , Two of thefe had necklaces of fhells, which we could not perfuade them to part with for any thing we cOuld give them : we prefented them, how- ever, with fome beads, and, after a fhorl ftay, they de- parted. We attempted to follow them, hoping that they would condud us to fome place where we (hould find more of them, and have an opportunity of feeing their women ; but they made us underftand, by fignsj that they did not defire our company. At eight o'clock the next mornings we were vifited by feveral of the natives, whq were now, become quite familiar. One of them, at our defire, threw his lance, which was about eight feet long : it flew with a fwift- nefs and fteadinefs that furprifed 113, and though it was never more than four feet from the ground, it entered deeply into a tree at fifty paces diftance. After this they ventured on board, where I left them, to all ap- pearance, much entertained, and weit again with Mr feanks to take a view of the country ; but chiefly to in- dul ^e an anxious curiofity, by looking round us upon the fea, ,of which our wirfies almoft perfuaded us we had formed an idea more difadvantageous than the truth. After having walked about feven or eight miles along the fhore to the northward, we afcended a very high hill, and were foon convinced that the danger of our CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 5<^S our fituation was at lead equal to our apprehenfions ; for in whatever diredion we turned our eyes, we faw rocks and fhoal^ without number, and no pafTage out to iea, but through the winding channels between them, which could not be navigated without the laft: degree of difficulty and danger. We returned therefore to the fhip, not in better fpirits than when we left it ; we found feveral datives Itill on board, and we were told that the turtles, of which we had then no Icfs than twelve upon the deck, had fixed their attention more than any thing elfe in the (hip. On the 1 9th in the morning, we were vifitcd by ten of the natives, the greater part from the other fide of the river, where we law fix or feven more, moft of them women, and like all the reft of the people we had {een 10. this country, they were ftark naked. Our guefts brought with them a greater number of lances than they had ever done before, and having laid them up in a tree, they fet a man and a boy to watch them : the reft then came on board, and we foon perceived that tKey had determined to get one of our turtles, which was probably as great a dainty to them as to us. They firft aiked us, by figns, to give them one ; and being refu- fed, they*expreired, both by looks and geftures, great difappomtpdent and anger. At this time we happened to have no viduals drefled, but I offered one of them feme bifcuit, which he fnatched and threw overboard with great difdain. One of them renewed his requeft to Mr Banks, and upon arefufal ftamped Tjvith his loor, and pufhed him from him in a tranfport of refentment and mdignation: having applied by turns to almoft every perfon who appeared to have any command in the ihip, without fuccefs, they fuddenly feized two of the turtles, and dragged them towards the fide of the fhip where their canoe lay: our people foon forced them out of their hands, and replaced them with the reft. They would not however relinquifh their enter- prife, but made feveral other attempts of thefanie kind,* in all which being equally difappointed, they fuddenly Vol,I.— N'' 13. 30 ^ leaped *<-• '.!.',':- ^66 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. leaped into their canoe in a rage, and began to padote towards the (hore. At the fame time, I Went mrd the boat with Mr Banks, and five or fix of the ihij^? crew, and we got afliore before them, where many niore of Our people were already engaged in various employ- ments ; as foon a;; they landed, they feized their arm&, and, before we were aware of their defi^n, they fnatch- cd a brand from under a pitch kettle which was boiling, and making a circuit to the windward of the few things we had on fliore, they fet fire to the grafs in their way, with furprifmg quicknefs and dexterity : the grals, which was 'five or fix feet high, and as dry as fliibble, burnt with amazing fury; and the fire made ^ rapid progrefs towards a tent of Mr BanksV, which had been iet up for Tupia when he was fick, taking in its courfe a fow and pigs, one of which it fcorched to death. Mr Banks leaped into a boat, and fetched fome people from on beard, juft time enough to fave his tent, by hauling it down upon the beach j but thefmith's forge, at le; fuch part of it as would burn, was confumed. Whn. this was doing, the Indians went to a place at fome dif- tance, where feveral of our people were wafhing, and where our nets, among which was the feine, and a great quantity of linen, were laid out to dry ; here they again iet fire to the grafs, entirely difregarding both threats and entreaties. We were therefore obliged to difchargc a mufquet, loaded with^fmall (hot, at one of them, which drew blood at the diftance of about forty yards, and this putting them to flight, we extinguimed the fire at this place before it had made much progrefs ; but where the grafs had been firft kindled, it fpread into the woods to a great difiance. As the Indians were fiill in fight, I fired a mufquet, charged with ball, abreail of them among l:he mangroves, to convince them that they were not yet out t CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. two miles diftance. If this accident had happened a very little while fooner, the confequcnce might have teen dreadful ; for our powder had been aboard but 4 few. days, and the ftore tent, with many valuable things V\rki?h it contained, had not been removed many hours, We had no idea of the fury with whi':h grais would burn ill this hot climcte, nor confequently of the diffi- culty of extinguifhing it ; but we determined^ that if it fhould ever again be neceffary for us to pitch our tents in iuch a fituation, our ftrft raeafure Hiould be to to clear the ground round us. In the atiernoon we got every thing on board the ihip, nevv birthed her, and let her fwing with the tide ; and at night the m after returned, with the difcouraging account, that there was no paflage for the fh;p to thq northward. ' The next morninp', the '?oih, at low water, I went and four.ded ai;d buoyed the bar, the Ihip being now rieady for the fea. We faw no Indians this day, but all the hilb round us, for many miles, were on fire, which at night made a moft ftriking and^beautiful appear- •ance. ■■■'." '. - The 2ift pafTed without our getting fight of any of the inhabitants, and, indeed, without a fingle incident worth notice. On the 2 2d, we killed a turtle for the day's provifion, "Upon opening which we found a wooden harpoon or turtle-peg, about as thick as a man's finger, near fit- teen inches long, and bearded at the ^nd, fuch as we had feen among the natives, (licking through both flicuiders: it appeared to have been ftruck a confidcr- abie time, for the wound had perfe^^ly healed up over the weapon. Early in the morning of the 2'^d, I fent fome people into the country to gather a fiipply of the greens which 'iiave been before mentioned by the name of Indian Kale ; and one of them having ftraggled from the reft, fuddenly fell in with four Indians, three men and a boy, Vhom hsdid not fee till, by turning (hprt in the wooq, he 5er, n?ar fif- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. joj found himfelf among them. They had kindled a J, lind were broiling a bird of fome kind, and part of a nguroo,the remainder ot which, and a cockatoo,hung litde diftance upon a tree : the man, being unarm- was at firft greatly terrified ; but he had the pre- ice of mind not to run away, judging, very rigndy, It he was moft likely to incur danger by appearing to Iprchend it ; on the contrary, he went and fat down t them, and, with an air of chearfulnefs and good imour, offered them his knife, the only thing he had lOUt him which he thought would be acceptable to lem ; they received it, and, having handed i^ from one the other, they gave it him again ; he theiynade an Fer to leave them ; but this they fecmed not difpofed permit : ftill, however, he diflembled his fears, and down again ; they confidered him with great at- ition and curiofity, particularly his clothes, and then |lt his hands and face, and fatished themfelvear that his j)dy was of the fame texture with their own. They jated him with the greateft civility, and, having kept Im about half an hour, they made ligns that he might epart j he did not wait for a fecond difmiffion, but [hen he left them, not taking the direA way to the iip, they came from their fire and direded him j fo bt they well knew whence he came. In the mean time, Mr Ba'iks, haying made an ex* jrfion on the other fide of the river to gather plants, pund the greateft part of the cloth that had been given p the Indians lying in a heap together, probably as ufe- m lumber, not worth carrymg away ; and, perhaps, if lehad fought further, he might have found the other ^nkets ; for they Teemed to fet very little value upon ny thing we had, except our turtle, which was a com- aodity that we were leaft able to fpare. The blowing weather, which prevented our attempt ) get out to lea, ftill continuing, Mr Banks and Dr olander went again out on the 3^4th to fee whether any ew plant could be picked upi*: they traverfed the ^ofxls all day without luccefs 5 but as they were rctum- 5i« CAPTAIN COOK'S f IkST VOYAGE. ing through a deep valley, the (ides of which, thonJ almoft as perpendicular as a wall, were covered w frees and bulhes ; they found lying upon the grc feveral marking nuts, the Anacardium menlale ; th{| put them upon a nqw fcent,' and they made a moft( tigent fearch after the tree that bore them, which, haps no European botanift ever faw ; but, to theii mortification, t^ey could not find it : fo that, after fpea ing much time, and cijtting down four or five tre thev returned quite exhaufted with fatigue to the fliip On the 25th, having made an excurfion up tlie riva I found a canoe belonging to our friends, the Indiafl whom we had not feei) fince the affair of the turtj they had left it tied to fome mangroves, about a diilant from the (hip, and I could fee by their that they were retired at leajj fi.% miles diredly iij land. As Mr Banks was ag^n gleaning ijie country his Natural Hiftory, on the 26th, he nad the good foi tun« to take an animal of the Opjfum tribe ; it was af male, and with k he took tv<^o young ones: it found much to referable the remarkable animal of 1 kind, which Monf. de BuSbn ha$ defcribed in hisN tural Hiftory by the name of Bhalanger^ bqt it wasi the fame. Monf, Buffon fuppofcs this tribe to he 1 c^lliar to America, but, in this, ne is certainly miftakenj -and probably, as Pallas has obferyed in his Zoology,! PhaUnger itlelf is a native of the Eaft Indies, astheao mal which was caught by Mr Bankrrei'einbled it in tW c^raordinary coiiformanon of tlie feiot, in which it ' lers from animals of every other tribe. On tiie 27th, Mr Gore fliot a Kanguroo, T^iclj with the Ikin, entrails, and head weighed eighty-fon pounds. Upon examination, however, we found tS this aoimai vyas not at its full growth, the inncrDnol grinders not being > et formed. We dre(red it for dk lier tiie next day; ba", to our great 4ifappoiB!tmcii wc found it had a'niUi;h wprle fl^your than t««t we ' tr^iteti before. .... ; CAPTAm dOOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. 511. e wind continued in the fame, quarter, and with fame violence^ till five o'clock in the morning of the th, when it fell calm ; foon after a light breeze fprung from the land, and it being about two hours ebb, 1 t a boat to fee what water was upon the bar ; in the lean time Wc got the anchor up, and made all ready to It to fca. But when the boat came back, the officer ported that there was only thirteen feet water upon e bar, which was fm inches lefs than the (hip drew. fe were therefore obliged to come to, and the fei eeze fetting in again about eight o'clock, we gave up hope of failing that day. We had frefli gales at S. E. with hazy weather and un, till two in the morning of the 31ft, when the weather being fomething more moderate, I had thoughrs If trying to warp the (hip out of the harbour ; but upoii ming out myfeff firft in the boat, I found it (lill blow too frefli (or the attenript. During all thistime the pin- nace and vawl continued to ply the net and hook with Iblerable f'iccefs ; fometimes taking a turtle, and fre- quently bringing in from two to three hundred weight jffiih. On the I ft of Auguft, the carpenter examined the jumps, and, tp our great mortification, f ui them alt En a ftate of decay, owing, as he faid,to the i ')'s havlnp; been left in the wood ; one of them was fo rotten a ., [when hoifted up, to drop to pieces, and the reft were llitile better ; fo that our chief trult was now in the foundnefs of ourveflTel, which happily did not admit I more than one inch of water in an hour. . At fix o'clock in the morning of Friday the third, we [made another unfuccefsfiil attempt to warp the fliip ' [out t)f harbour ; but at five o'clock in the morning of I the 4th, our efforts had a better effeft, and about fcvcn we got once more under fail, with a light air from the land, which foon died away, and ^vas ibllowed by the fea-breeze from S. E. by S. with which weftood off to fea E. by N. having the pinnace ahead, which was or- dered to keep founding continually. The yawl had been '#. 5X2 CAPTAIN Ce^OK's FIRST VOYAGE. been fent to the turtle bank, to take up the net which had been left there ; but as the wind frelhened, we got out before her. A little before noon, we anchored in fifteen fathom water, with a fandy bottom ; for I did not think it faife to riin in amon^ the fhoals, till I had well viewed, them, at low- water, from the maft-head, which might deter- mine me which way to l^eer ; for as yet I was in doubt whether I fhould beat back to the fouthward, round all the flioals, or f^^k a pafla^e to the eallwiard or the northward, all which at prefent appeared to be equally difficult and dangerous. When we were at anchor^ the harbour from which we failed bore S. 70 W. diftant about five leagues ; the northermoft point of the main in fight, which 1 named Cape Uedford, and which lies in latitude 15 d. 16 m. S. longitude 2 14 d. 45 m.\V. bore N. 20 W. diftant three leagues and an half; but to the N. E, of this Cape we could fee land which had 1 the appearance of two high iflands : the turtle banks bore eaft, diftant one mile: our latitude, by obferva- tion, was i^ d. 32 m. S. and our depth of water in {landing ofFtrom the land was from three and an half tQ| fifteen fathom. Depar* CAPTAm COOK...FXRST VOYAGE. 5'3 ""^c from Endeavour River *n *u xr , '--''/ ^rie Country, and Zn' ' ^°^^'"' ^''^ harbour or creefc, which runs' in 1" ^"^ '^ '^a" baj^ Mh a ftage, andX fituarinn' • "" '^°='= "'' t° «acTi^ Jr heaving do«.„ ; bu "a Tow-wa^T^ the bar is not more than nine nr ^ f ' ^^^ ^^P"» "Pon fcventeen or eighteen it th^h ° t^"^ r^*'' "°"- more than We between high aSul^"^' "^ betide; the diT^ hMg about nine fert A?fh; '^'^'' ^^ ipring-tide, « « high- water betw;en nh. ° '"; '"'^ ^J"" °f the^'hooa ^ to be remembered th J? w " ""'' '.^" » '^'o^k : it muft ncaded with /hoal7 i^f^'^^P.^ "^'^ coaft isfoK .*«, 'outh point is fomi hLh uTl'' '*''' ''°'^n- Over ^ three mmmmmmm mmmm 5M CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. three miles to the northwarJ, where the land begins again to be high. The chief refrefliment that we procured here, was turtle, but, as they were not to be liad without going five leagues out to fea, and the weather was frequently tempeftuous, we did not abound with this dainty; what we caught, as well as the fifli, was always equally divided among us all by weight, the meaneft perfon on board having the fame (lure as myfelf ; and, I think, every commander, in fuch a voyage as this, will find it his intereft to follow the fame rule. In feveral parts of the fandy beaches, and fand hills near the fea, we found purflain, and a kind of bean that grows upon a ftalk, which creeps along the ground : the purflain we found very good when it was boiled, and the beans are not to be defpifed, for we found them of great fervice to our ^fick: the beft greens, however, that could be procured here, were the tops of the coccos, which have been mentioned already, as known in the Weft Indies by the name of Indian kale : thefe were, in cir opinion, not much inferior to foinnage, which, in tafte, they fome- what refemble ; the roots, indeed, are not good, but they may probably be meliorated by proper cultivation. They are round here chiefly in boggy ground. The few cabbage palms that we met with, were in general fmall, ana yielded fo litde cabbage that they were not ^otth feeking. * Befides the Kanguroo,and the opoflTum , that have been ."already mentioned, and a kind of polecat, there arc ivolves upon this part of the coaft, if we were not de- ceived by the tradls upon the" ground, and feveral fpe- cies of ferpents ; fome of the ferpents are venomous, and fome harmlefs : there are no tame animals here except dogs, and of thefe we faw but two or three, which fre- quendy came about the tents, to pick up the fcraps and bones that happened to lie fcattered near them. There does not indeed feem to be many of any animal, except the kanguroo ; we fcarcely faw any other above once, ^ but •>"i'. CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRb . VOYAGE. SIS but this we met with almoft every time we went into the woods. Of land fowls we faw crows, kites, hawks, cockatoos of two forts, one white and the other black, a very beau- tiful kind of loriquetSi fome parrots, pigeons of two or three forts, and feveral fmall birds not known in Europe. The water fowls are herns, whiftling ducks, which perch, and, I believe, rooft upon trees, wild geefe, cur- lieus, and a few others, but tliefe do not abound. The face of the country, which has been occafionally mentioned before, is agreeably diveriified by hill and valley, lawn and wood. The foil of the hilis is hard, dry, and ftony, yet it produces coarfe grafs betides wood : the foil of the plains and vallles is in fome placej}^ fand, and in fome clay ; in fome alfo it is rocky and ftony, like the hills; in general, however, it is wel^ clothed, and has at leaft the appearance of fertility The whole country, both hill and vall^^/, wood anf plain, abounds with ant hills, fome of which are tix or eight feet high, and twice as much in circumference. The trees here are not of many forts ; the gum tree, which we found on the fouthern j)art of the coaft, is the moft common, but here it is not fo large : on each fide of the river, through its whole courfe, there are man*, groves in great numbers, which in fome places extend a mile within the coaft. The country is in all parts well watered, there being feveral fine rivulets at a fmall diftance from each other, but none in the place where we lay, at leaft not during the time we were there, which was the dry feafon ; we were however well fup^- plied with water by forings, which were not far off. In the afternoon otjhe 4th, we had a gentle breeze at S. E. and clear weather, but as I did not intend to fail till the morning, I fent all the boats to the reef, to get what turtle and Ihell fifh they could. At low^ water, I went up to the maft-head, and took a view of the fhoals, which m.ide a very threatening appearance : I could fee feveral at a remote diftance, and part of many ^f them was above water. The fea appeared 3 T 3 moft Si6 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. moft open to the north-eaft of the turtle reef, and I came to a rcfolutlon to ftretch out that way clofe upon a wind, becaufe^f we fhould find no paflage, we could always return the way we went. In the evening, the boatR brought in a turtle, a fting- ray, and as raany large cockles as came to about a pound and an half a man, for in each of them there was no lefs than two pounds of meat : in the night alfo we caught feveral fharks, which, though not a dainty, were an acceptable increafe of our frelh provifion. In the morning of the 5th, I waited till half ebb be- fore I weighed, becaufe at that time the flioals begin to appear, but the wind then blew fo hard that I was # cbliged to remain at anchor : in the afternoon, how- ever, the -gale becoming more moderate, we got under ffail, and ftood out upon a wind N. E. by E. leaving [he turtle reef to wjniiward, and having the pinnace founding ahead : we had not kept this courfe long, be- fore we difcoverod ihoals before us, and upon both the bows ; and at half an hour after four, having run about eight miles, the pinnace made the fignal for (hoal wa- ter, where we little expeffced it : upon this we tacked, and ftood on and off, while the pinnace ftretched far- ther to the eaftward, and, night appro«whing, I came to an anchor in twenty fathom water, with a muddy bot- tom. Endeavour River thenT)ore S. 5:^ W. Cape Bed- ford W. by N. f N. diftant five leagues, the norther- moft land in fight, which had the appearance of aa ifland, N. and a (lioal, a fmall Tandy part of which ap- pcsLved above "vvatcr, bore N. E. diftant between two and three miles : in ftanding off from turtle reef to this place, we had from fourteen to twenty fathom water, but when the pinnace wao about a mile farther to the E. N. E. there was no more than four or five feet wa- ter, with rocky ground ; and yet this did not appear to us in the fhip. In the morning of the 6th, wc had a ftrong gale, fo that inftead of weigliing, we were obliged to veer away IQfire cable* and i&ike our top-gallant yard3. At low- CAPTAIN COOK*8 FIRST VOYAGE. S»7 water, myfelf, with feveral of the officers, kept a look- out at the maft-head, to fee if any pailage could be dis- covered between the fhoals, hut nofhiQg was in view except breakers, extending from the S. round by the E. as far as N. W. and out to fea beyond the reach of our fight ; thefe breakers, however, did not appear to be caul'ed by one continued ihoal, but by feveral, which lay detached from each other : on that which lay far- theft to the eaftward, the fea broke very high, which made me think it was the outermoft, for upon many of jthefe within, the breakers were inconiidcrahle, and from about half ebb to half flood, they were not to be fcen at all, which makes failing among them Alll more dan- gerous, efpecially as the ftioals here confift principally of coral rocks, which are as fteep as a wall ; upon iomc of them however, and generally at the north end, thiere are patches of fand, which are cavered only at high- water, and which are to be difcerned at fome diftance. Being now convinced that there was no pafTage to lea, but through the labyrinth formed by thefe (hoals, I was altogether at a lois which way to tteer, when the weather Ihould permit us to get under fail. It was the Mafter's opinion, that we fliould beat back the way we came, but this would have been an endlefs labour, as the wind blew ftrongly from that quarter, almoft with- out intermiffion ; on the other hand, if no palfage could be found to the northward, we fhould be compelled to take that meafure at laft. Thefe anxious deliberations engaged us till eleven o'clock at night, when the fliip drove, and obliged us to veer away to a cable and one third, which brought her up ; but m the morning, the gale increafmgj (he drove again, and we therefore let go the fmalK bower, and veered away to a whole cable upon it» and two cables upon the other anchors, yet (he ftill drove, though not lo faft ; we then got down her top- gallant mafts, and ftruck the yards and top-mafts clofe down, and at laft had the fatisfadion to find that (he rode. Cape Bedford now bore W. S. W. diftant three leagues and aji half, and in this fituatioa we had Ihoals X9 •,-*» 5ie CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. to the 6aftward, extending from the S. E. by S. to tlie N» N. \V. the nearell of which was about two miles di^ ^ tant. As the gala continued, with little remiflion, wc rode till feven o'clock in the morning of the i oth, when, it l>eing more moderate, we weighed and flood in for the land, having at length determined to feek a paifage along the (hore to the northward, flill keeping the boat ahead: during our run in wc had from nineteen to twelve fathom: after ftanding in about an hour, wc odged away for three fmall iflands that lay N. N. £. | E. three leagues from Cape Bedford, which the Mafter| had vificed while we were in port. At nine o'clock, wc were abreaft of them, and between them and the main: between usand the main there was another low ifland, which lies N. N. W. four miles from the three iflands; and in this channel we had fourteen fathom warer. Tlic Rorthermoft point of land in light bore N. N. W. k W. diflant about two leagues. Four or five leagues to the north of this head land, we faw three iflands, near which lay fome that were flill fmaller, and we could fee the ihoals and reefs without us, extending to the northward, as far as thefe iflands : between thei'e reefs and the head land, we dir^€led our courfe, leaving to the eaftward a fmall ifland, which lies N. by E. diftant four miles from the three iflands. At noon, we were got between the head land and the three iflands ; from the head land we were diftant two leagues, and from the iflands four ; our latitude, by obfervation, was 14 d. 51 m. We now thought we faw a clear opening before us, and hoped that we were once more out of danger ; in this hope, however, we loon found ourfelves difappointed, and for that reafon I called the head land Cape FLATtERY. It lies in latitude 14 d. ^6 m, S. longitude ^ i4d, 43 m> W. and is a lofty promontory, making next the iea in two hills, which have a third behind them, with low iandy ground on each fide : it may however be ftiH bet- ter known by the three iflands out at fea ; the northcr- moft and largeft lies about five leagues from the Cape* in the direftion of N, N, E. From Cape Flattery the CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. $«9 land trends away N. W. and N. W. by W. We (leer- ed along the ihore N. W. by W. till one o'clock, for what we thought the open channel, when the petty offi- cer at the mail-head cried out that he faw land ahead, extending quite round to the ifl.mds that lay without us, and a large reef between us and them : upon this I rati up to the maft-head myfelf, from whence I very plainly faw the reef, which was now fo far to windward, that we could not weather it, but the land ahead, which he had fuppofed to be the main, appeared to me to be only a clufter of fmall iflands. As loon as I got down from the maft-head, the Mafter, and fome others went up, who all infifted that the land ahead was not iflands, but the main, and to make their report ftill more alarn% ing, they faid that they faw breakers all round us. I^ this dilemma, we hauled upon a wind in for the land, and made the fignal for the boat that was founding ahead to come on board, but as (he was far to leeward, we were obliged to edge away to take her up, and foon at- ter we came to an anchor, under a point of the main, in fomewhat lefs than five fathom, and at about the diiiance of a mile from the ihore. Cape Flattery now bore S. E, diftant three leagues and an half. As foon as the (hip was at anchor, I went afhore upon the point, which is high, and afforded me a good view of the fea coail, trending away N. W. by W. eight or ten leagues, which, the weather not being very clear, was as far as I could fee. Nine or ten fmail low iflands, and fome (hoals ap- peared ofFthe coail ; I faw alio fome large (hoals between the main and the three high iflands, without which, I was clearly of opinion there were more iflands, and not any par of the main. Except the point I was no\i tipon this hill till fun-fet, but the weather was fo hazy (luring the whole time, that I came down much dif- appointed. After reflecting upon what I had feen^ and comparing the intelligence. 1 had gained with wh^t 1 expedled, 1 determined to llay upon the id and all night, hoping that the morning might be clearer, and afford me a more diftin^ and cornpreh^nfive view. We therefore took up our lodging under the Ihelter of a huOti which grew upon the beach, and at three in the morninc, having fent the pinnace with orie of the matqs whom I had brought out with tne, to found between the ifland and the reefs, and examine what appeared to be a channel through them, I climbed the hill a fecond time ; but, to my great difappointment, found the wea- ther much more hazy than it had been the day before. About noon the pinnace returned, having been as far as the reef, and found between fifteen and twenty-eight fathom of water ; but it blew fo hard that the mate did Jiot dare to Venture into One of the channels, which ht faid ppeared to him to be very narrow : this, however, diu r : difcourage me, for I judged from his defcripr* tion of the place he had been at, that he had fqen it to difadvantage* While I Was buCy in my furvey, Mr Banks was attentive to his favourite purfuit, and picked up feveral plants which he had not before feen. We found the ifland^ which is vifible at twelve leagues diftance, to be about eight leagues in circi\m£erence, and in general very rocky and barren. On che north- weft fide, however, there are fome fandy bays, and feme low laridj which 's covered with long thin grafs, and trees of the fame k.nd with thofe upon the main i this part alfo abounded with lizards of a very hrge fize, fome of which we took. We found alfo frefh water in two places ; one w&s a running ilream, hm that was a little bracki(h where 1 tafted it, which was clofe to the fca ; the other was a Handing pool, clofe behind the fandy beach, and this was perfedly .fwect and goodL Notwithftandlng the diftance of this ifland trorti the main, we faw, to oiw great fttfjjrize, Uiat it was fomc- Vol.l.— N«i4. ^ 3U ' ^ time* '522 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGfi. times vifitcd by the natives ; for we found feven 01* eight frames of their huts, and vaft heaps of (hells, the lift of which we fuppofed had been their food. We obfervcd that all thele huts were built upon eminences, and entirely expofed to the S. E. contrary to thofe which vre had feen upon the main; for they v/ere all built either upon the fide of a hill, or under fome buflies which afforded them Ihelter from the wind. From thefe huts, and their fituation, we concluded that at fome feafons of the year the weather here is invariably calm and fine ; for the inhabitants have no boat which can navigate the fea to fo great a diftance, in fuch wea- ther as we had from the time of our firft coming upon the coaft. As we faw no animals upon this place but lizards, I called it Lizard Island; the other two high iflands, which lie at the diftance of four or five miles from it, are comparatively fmall ; and near them lie three others fmaller ftill, and low, with feveral Ihoals or t'eefs, efpecially to the S. E. there is, however, a clear pafiage from Gape Flattery to thefe iflands, and even quite to the outward reefs, leaving Lizard Ifland to the north- weft, and the others to the fouth-e? ft. ■ At two in the afternoon, there being no hope of clear weather, we fet out from Lizard Ifland to return to the fhip, and in our way landed upon the low fandy ifland with trees updn it, which vv^e had remarked in our going out. Upon this ifland we faw an incredible number of birds, chiefly fea-fowl : we found alfo the neft of an ieagle v/ith young ones, which we killed ; and the neft of Ibme other bird, we knew not what, of a moft enor- mous lize; it was built with flicks upon the grourd, and was no lefs than fix and twenty feet in circumference, and two feet eight inches high. We found alfo that this place had been vilited by '.he Indians, probably to eat turtle, many of which we faw upon the ifland, and a great number of their fliells, piled one upon anodier in diflferent places. To this fpot we gave name of Eagle Island, and afte? leaving it, we fleered S. W. dire^ly for the fhip, found- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 5«3 founding all the way, and we had never lefs than eight fathom, nor more than fourteen; the fame depth of water that I had found between this and Lizard Ifland. When 1 got on board, the mafter' informed me that he had been down to the low iflands, between which and the main I had directed him to found ; that he judg- ed them to lie about three leagues from the main ; that without them he found from ten to fourteen fathom^ and between them and the main feven ; but that a flat, which ran two leagues out from the main, made this channel narrow. Upon one of thefe low illands he flept, and was aihore upon others ; and he reported, that he faw every where piles of turtle-^Ihells, and fins hanging upon the.trees in many places, with the flefli upon them, fo recent, that the boat's crew eat of them : he faw alfo twofpots, clear ofgrafs, which appeared to have been lately dug up, and, from the ihape and lize of them, he conjedlurcd they were graves. After cor}fider:ng what I had feen myfelf, and the rc-» port of the mafter, I was of opinion that the paflTage to leeward wou!d be dangerous, and that, by keeping m with the main, we fhould run the rl{k of being locked in by the great reef, and at laft be compelled to retu/n hack in fearch of another paiTage, by which, or any other accident that fliould caule the fame delay, we ftiould infallibly lofe our paflage to the Eaft Indies, and endanger the ruin. of the voyage, as we had now but little more than three months provif?ons on board at fliort allowance. Having flated this opinion, and the fads and appear- ances upon which it was founded, to the officers, it was U'luiiimoufly agreed, that the beft thing we could do would be to quit the coafl: altogether, till we could ap- proach it with lefs danger, In the morning of the 1 3th, therefore, at break of day, we got under fail, and flood out N. E. for the north-weft end of Lizard Ifland, leaving Eagle Ifland to windward, and fome other iflands and (hoals to the leeward, and having the pinnace ahead to afcertain the 3 U 2i deptli 524 CAPTAlK COOfe's FIRST VOYAGE. depth of water in every part of our courfe. In thii channel we had from nine to fourteen fathotti. At noon, the north weft end of Lizard Ifland hctt E. S. E. diftant one mile ; our latitude, by obfervation, Was 14 d. .^S m. and our depth of water fourtieen fa- thom. We had a iteady gale at S. E. and by two o'clock we juft fetched to windward of one of the chan- nels or openings in the outer reef, which i had feen from the ifland. We now tacked, and made a fluort trip to the S. W. while the Matter in the pinnace examined the channel : he foon made the fignal for the (hip to follow, and in a fhort time (he got (afe out. As foon as we had got without the breakers, we had no ground with one hundred and fifty fathom, and found a large fea rolling in from the S. E. a certain fign that neither ]and nor (hoals were near us in that diredion. Our change of lituation was now vifible in every countenance, for it was moft fenfibly felt in every brcaft : we had been little lefs than three months entangled among fhoals and rocks, that every moment threatened us with deftrudion : frequently paffing our nights at anchor within hearing of the furge that broke over them; ibmetimes driving towards them even while our anchors were otat, and knowing that if by any accident, to which Sin almoA continual tempeit expoled us, they fhould not hold, we muft in a few minutes inevitably perifli. But now, after having failed no lels than three hundred and fixty leagues, wuhout once having a man out of the chains heaving the lead, even for a minute, which perhaps never happened to any other vcifel, we found ourfelves in an open fea, with deep water ; and enjoyed a flow of fjpirits which was equally owing to our late dangers and our prefent fecurity : yet the very waves, which by their fwell convineed us that we had no rocks ^.or flioals to fear convinced us alfo that we could not fafely put the. fame confidence in ourveiTel as before (he had flruck 5 for the blows (he received from them fb widened her leaks, that (he admitted no lefs than nine inches viratcr ifi an hour, which, con(idcring the (late of ovc CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 525 lour pumps, and the navigation that was ftill before us, |would have been a fubje^ft of more ferious confideration, {0 people whofe danger had not fo lately been fo much Imore imniinent. The paffage or channel through which we pafled linto the open fea beyond the reef, lies i»" latitude 14 d. 1^2 m. S. and may be always be known by the three liigh iflands within it, which I have called the Islands OF Direction, becaufe by thefe a ftranger may find a lafe paifage through the reef quite to the main. Th6 channel lies from Lizard Ifland N. E. f N. diftant thret leagues, and is about one third of a mile broad, and not more in length. Lizard Ifland which is, as 1 have be- fore obferved, the largeft and the northermoft of the three, affords fafe anchorage under the north weft fide, freOi water, and wood for fuel. The low iflands and ihoalsalfo which lie between it and the main abound with turtle and fifli, which may probably be caught iit all feafons of the year, except when the weather is very tempeftuous; fothat, all things confidered, there is not perhaps a better place for flaips to refrefli at upon the whole coaft than this ifland. And before I difmifs it, I muft obferve, that we found upon it, as well as upon the beach in and about Endeavour River, bamboos, cocoa nuts, pumice flione, and the feeds of plants which are not the produce of this country, and which it is reafonable .0 fuppofe are brought from the eaftward by the trade [winds. The iflands which were difcovered by Quiros, I and called Auftralia del Efpiritu Santa, lie in this parallel; I but how far to the eaftward cannot now be afcertained : in moft charts they are placed in the fame longitude with this country, which, a$ dppears by the account of hia voyage that has been publimed, he never faw ; for that places his difcoveries no lefs than two and twenty de-» I grees to the eaftward of it. As foon as we were without the reef we brought to, and having hoifted in the boats, we ftood off and on j upon a wind all night ; for I was not willing to ruii |\o leeward till I hd^ ^ whol^ day before me. In the mora-! $26 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. morning of the 14th, at day-break, Lizard Ifland bore S. 1 5 E. diftatit ten leagues ; and we then made fail and ftood away N. N. W. f W. till nine o'clock, when we flood N. W. k N. having the advantage of ?* frelh gale at S. E. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 1 3 d. 46 m. S. and at this time we had no land in fight. At fix in the evening we fhortened fail and brought the fhip to, with her head to the N. E. and at fix in the morning made fail and fteen^d well, in order to get within fight of the land, that I might be fure not to overfhoot the pafl'age, if a paffage there was, between this land and New Guinea. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation,. was ) ^ d. 2 m. S. longitude 216 d. W. which was id. 23 m. W. of Lizard Ifland : at this time we had no land in fight ; but a little before one o'clock, we faw high land from the rnaft-head, bearing W. S. W. At two we faw more land to the N. W. of that we had feen before: it appeared in hills, like iflands; but we judged it to be a continuation of the main land. About three, we difcovered breakers between the land I and the {hip extending to the fouthward farther than we could fee ; but to the north we thought we faw them terminate abreafl of us. What we took for the end of them in this diredion, however, foon appeared to be only an opening in the reef; for we prefently faw them again, extending northward beyond the reach of our fight. Upon this we hauled clofe upon a wind, which I was now at E. S. E. and we had fcarcely trimmed our I fails before it came to E. by N. which was ri^ht upon I the reef, and confequcntly made our clearing it doubt- 1 ful. At fun fet the northermoft part of it that was in I fight bore from us N. by E, and was two or three! leagues diftant ; this however being the beft tack tal clear it, we kept flanding to the northward with all the I fail we could fet till midnight ; when, being afraid of I Handing too far in this diredion, we tacked and ftoodj to the louthward, our run from fun fet to this time be-l ing (ix leagues N. and N. by E, I When! CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGl 5^7 When we h:id ftood about two miles S. S. E. It fell calm ; we had founded feveral times during the night, but had no bottom with one hundred and forty fathom, neither had we any ground now with the fime length of line ; yet, about four in the morning of the 1 6th, we plainly heard the roaring of the furf, and at break of day faw it foaming to a vaft height, at not more than a mile's diftance. Our diftrefs now returned upon us with double force ; the waves which rolled in' upon the reef, carried us towards it very fall ; we could reach no ground with an anchor, and had not a breath of wind for the fail. In this dreadful fituation, no fource was left us but the boats ; and to aggravate our misfortune i;he pinnace was under repair : the longboat and yawl, however, were put into the water, and fent ahead to- tow, which, by the help of our fweeps abaft, got the ihip's head round to the northward ; which, if it could not prevent our deftru£lion, might at leaft delay it. But it was fix o'clock before this was efFedled, and we were not then an hundred yards from the rock upon which the fame billow which waihed the iide of the (hip, broke to a tremendous height the very next time it rofe ; fo that between us and deftrudtion there was only a dreary valley, no wider than the bafe of one wave, and even now the fea under us was unfathomable, at leaft no bot- tom was to be found with a hundred and twenty fa- thom. During this fcene of diftrefs the carpenter had found means to patch up the pinnace ; fo that ihe was boifted out, and fent ahead, in aid of the other boats, to tow ; but all our efforts would have been inefFedual, if,juft at this crifis of our fate, a light air of wind had not fprung up, fo light, that at any other time we fhould not have obferved it, but which was enough to turn the Icalein our favour, and in conjunction with the afTifi- ince which was afforded us by the boats, to give the ftiip a perceptible motion obliq^uely from the reef. Our topes now revived ; but in lels than ten minutes it was again a dead calni^ aod the iliip was agaiQ driven to- wards S^^ CAt>TAm COOK'S FIRST V0YA(5t wards tlie breakers, which were net now two hundred] yards diftant. The fame light br<;e?;e however return- ed before we had loft all the ground it had enabled usi to gain, and lafled about ten minutes more. During this time we difcpvered a fmall opening in the reef, at j^bout the diftance of a quarter of a mile : I immediate. Iy fent one of the mates to examine it, who reported tliat its breadth was not more than the length of th^ fhip, but that within it there was fmooth water: this difcover)' ieemed to render our efcape pofliblej and that was all, by pulhing the fliip through the opening, which .was | immediately attempted. It was uncertain, indeed,whe- ther wc could reach it ; but jf we (hould fucceed thus far, we made no doubt of being able to get through : in this, however, we were dilappointcd, for having reached it by the joint afliftance of our boats and the breeze, we found that in the mean time it had become high- water, and, to our great furprizc, we niet the tide of ebb rufliing out of it like a mill-ftream. We gained, however, fome advantage, though in a manner dired- iy cQUtrary to our expectations j we found it impofllble to go through the opening, but the ftream that prevent- e4 U$i carried us out about a quarter of a mile : it was too narrow for us to keep in it longer ; yet this tide of ebb fo much afiifted the boats, that, by noon, we had got an offing of near two miles. We had, however, yeafon to defpair of deliverance, even if the breeze, •which had now died away, fhould revive, for we were llill embayed in the reef; and the tide of ebb being fpent, the tide of flood, notwithftanding our utmoft efforts, again drove the fhip into the bight. About this time, however, we faw another opening, near a mile to the weft ward, which I immediat Iy fent the Firft Lieu- tenant, Mr Hicks, in the fmall boat to examine : iri the mean time we ftiuggled hard with the flood, fometimes gaining a little, and fometimes lofmg ; but every man Itill did his duty with as much calmnefs and regularity as if no danger had been ne^* About two g'doqk, Mr Hicks CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 529 Hicks returned with an accoitnt that the opening was narrow and dangerous, but that it might he paflfed : the pofTibility of pafling it was fuffici^nt encouragement to make the attempt, for all danger was lefs imminent than that of our prefent fituation. A light breeze noW fprung lip at E. N. E. with which, by the help of our boats, and the very tide of flood that, without an opening, would have been our deftruftion, we entered it, and were hurried through whh amazing rapidity, by a tor- rent that kept us from driving againft either fide of the channel, which was not more than a quarter of a mile in breadth. White we were (hooting this gulph, our foundings were from thirty to feven fathom, very irrc- gulai*, and the ground at bottom Very foul. As foon as we had got within the reef we anchored in nineteen fathom, over a bottom of coral and lliells. And now, filch is the vicifStude of life, we thought ourfelves happv in having regained a fituation, which, but two days before it was the utmoft obje(ft of our hope to quit. Rocks and flioals are always dangerous to the mariner, even where their fituation has been afcertained ; they are more dangerous in feas w^hich have never before been navigated, and in this part of the globe they are more dangerous than in any other ; for here they are reefs of coral rock, rifing like a wall almoft perpendicu- larly out of the unfathomable deep, always overflowed at high-water, and at low-water dry in many places ; and here the enormous waves of the vaft Southern Ocean, meeting with fo abrupt a rcfiftancc, break, with inconceivable violence,in a furf which no rocks or itorms in the northern hemifphere can produce. The dan- ger of navigating unknown parts of this ocean was now greatly increafed by our having a crazy fhip, and being Ihort of provifions and every other neceflary ; yet the diftindion of a firft difcoverer made us chearfully en- counter every danger, and fubmit to every inconveni- ence ; and we chofe rather to incur the cenfure of im- prudence and temerity, which the idle and voluptuous fo liberally bcjftow upon unfuccefsful fortitude and per- Vol, I.— N" 14. 3X feverance, 530 CAPTAIN COOK's FIRST VOYAGfi. feverance, than leave a country which we had difcover- ed unexplored, and give colour to a charge of timidity and irrefolution. Having now congratulated ourfelves upon getting within the reef, notwithflanding we had fo lately con- gratulated ourfelves upon getting without it, I refolved to keep the main land on board in my future rout to the northward, whatever the confequence might be; for if we had now gone without the reef again, it might have carried us lo far from the coaft, as to prevent my being able to determine, whether this country did, or did not, join to New Guinea ; a queftion which I was determined to refolvc from my firft coming within fight of land, However, as I had experienced the difadvantage of having a boat under repair, at a time jjyhen it was pofTible I might want to ufe her, I de- termined to remain faft at anchor, till the pinnace was perfe keep alouff the edge of the Ihoal, which ran off from le fouth fide of the fouthermofl ifland, fending the |awl at the fame time to run over the fhoal in fearch of jirtle. As foon as the pinnace had got to a proper pance, we wore, and ftgod after her : as v/e ran to Ice* 534 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. leeward of mis ifland, we took the yawl in tow, having fecn only one fmall turtle, and therefore maij I>ut little Hay upon the Ihoai. The ifland we found! he a fmall fpot of fand, with fome trees upon it, andi could difcern many huts, or habitations of the nativq whom we fuppofcd occafionally to vifit thefe ifla from the main, they being only live leagues diftant,| catch turtle, when they come afliore to lay their eg We continued to (land after the pinnace N. N. E. N. by E. for tv;'o other low illands^ having two (hoil without us, and one between us and the main. noon,we were about four leagues from the main,vvhi^ we faw extending to the northward, as far as N. W.I N. all flat and fandy. Our latitude, by oblcrvatic was II d. 23 m. S. and our longitude 217 d. 461 W. our foundings were from fourteen to twenty-tt fathom. By one o'clock, we had run nearly the length oft Ibuthermoft of the two iflands in fight, and finding tli the going to windward of them would carry us toof from the main, we bore up and ran to leeward, whe finding a fair open pafTage, we fleered N. by W. ioj dire« CAPTAIN COOX's FIRST VOYAGE. an«1 which 1 am rontldent no Kuropean had ever Ccizn before, 1 once more hoiRed Englifh colours, and though 1 hsd already taken pcfTcffion of i'everal particular parts, 1 now took pofleffion of the whole ealtern coaft, from latitude 38 d. to this place, latitude 10^ S. in right of his M.j fty King George the Third, by the name of New bouTH Wales, with all the bays, harbours, rivers, and iflands fituated upon it : we then fired three Vollies of fmall arms, which were anfwered by the fame luimbcr from the (liip. Having performed this cere- mony upon the ifland, which we called Possession Island, we reimbarked in our boat, but a rapid ebb tide fetting N. E. made our return to the veiVel very difHcult and tedious. From the time of our laft coming among the (lioals, we conftantly found a moderate tide, the flood fetting to the N. W. and the ebb to the S. £* At this place, it is high water at the full and change of the moon, about one or two o*clock, and the water riles and falls perpendicularly about twelve feet. We faw fmoke rihng in many places from the adjacent lands and iflands, as we had done -upon every part of the coail, after our laft retun to it through the reef. We continued at anchor all night, and between feven and eight o'clock in the morning of the 2 2d, Vve faw three oc four of the natives upon the beach gathering fhell-filli ; we difcovered, by the help of our giafles, that they were women, and, Hke all the other inhabitants of this countr}% ftark naked. At low water, which happen- ed about ten o'clock, we got under fail, and ftood to the S. W. with Irlight breeze at E. which afterwards veered to N. by E. our depth of water was from fix to ten fa- thom, except in one place, where we had but live. At noon, P.ifl^efllnn Ifland bore N. 5;^ E. diftant four leagues, the weft ern extremity of the main land in light bore S. 43 W. diflant between four and liVe leagues, and ap- f)eared to be extremely low., the fouth weft point of the argeft ifl^ind on the north weft fide of the paflage bore N. 71 W. diftant eight miles, and thif point 1 called Cape Corn w ah., it lies in latitude io d. 43 m. S, Ion- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYx\GE. r^9 longitude 219 d. \V. and Tome low lands that lie about tlie middle of the pafiage, which I called Willis's Isles, bore W. by b. f S. diftant about two leagues; our latitude by obfervation, was i o d. 46 m. S. We continued to advance witii the tide of Hood \V. N.W. having litde wind, and from eight to five fathom water. At half an hour after one, the pinnace, which was a]ie.id, made the fignal for fhoal water, upon which we tdcked, atKl fent away the yawl ro found alfo : wc then tacked again, and flood after them : in about two hours, th( y both made the fignal for flioal water, and the tide being nearly at its greatefl: height, I was afraid to (land on, as running aground at that time might be fatal ; I therefore came to an anchor in fomewhat lefs than feven fathom, fandy ground. Wallis^s iflands bore S. by \V, :} W. diftant five or fix miles, the ifiandi; to the north- ward extend from S. 73 E. to N. 10 E. and a fmall ifland, which was juflin %ht, bore N.W. f W. Here we found the flood tide let to the weft ward, and the ebb to the ea ft ward. After we had come to an anchor, I fent away the mafter in the long-boat to found, who, upon his return in th? evening, reported, that there was a bank ftretch- ing north and fouth, upon w^hich there were but three fathom, and that beyond it there were feven. About this time it fell calm, and continued fo till nine the next morning, when we weighed with a ilght breeze at S. S. E. and ftecred N.W. by W. for the fmall ifland which wasjuft in fight, having firft fent the boats ahead to fount!: the dcj th of water was eight, feven, fix, five, and four fathom, and three fathom upon the bank, it being now the laft quarter ebb. At this time the nor- thermoft ifland in fight bore N. 9 E. Cape Cornwall E. diflant three leagues, and Wailis*s liles S. 3 E. diftant three leagues. This bank, at leaft fo much as we have founded, extends nearly N. and S. but to what diftance I do not know ; its breadth is not more than half a mile at the utmoft. Whea we had got over the bank, wc deepened our 3 Y i water 540 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. water to fix fathom three quarters, and had the fame deptli all the way to the fniall illand ahead, which we re-nchcd hy noon, when it bore S. diibnt about half a mile. Oar depth of water vv\s now five fathom, and the northermolt land in fight, which is part of the fame chain of illands that we had {ecn to the nnrtluvnrd from the time of our full entering the flreight, bore N. 71 E. Our latiliide, by obfervation, was 10 d. 33 in. S. and our longitude 2i9d. 22 m. \V. in this Ikuation, no part of the main was in fight. As wc were now near the idand, and had hnt little wind, Mr Banks and I landed upon it, and found it, except a few parclic.^ of wocd, to be a barren rock, the haunt of birds, which had frequented it m -iuch numbers, as to mrike the fuif ice ahnolt uniforndy white with their dung : of tliefe birds, the greater part feemed to be boobies, and I therefore called the place Booby Island. After a Ihort itay, we returned to tiie ihip, and in the mean time the wind had got to the S. W. it v/as but a gentle breeze, yet it vras accompanied by a fwell from the fame quarter, which, with other circumftances, conhrmed ray opi- nion tbat we v;ere got to the welfward of Carpeiitaria, or the noitliern extremity of New Holland, and had now an open fea to the weft ward, which gave me great fatisfaclion, not only becaufe the dangers and fatigues of the voyage were drawing to an end, but becaule it would no longer be a doubt whether New Holland and New Guinea were two fepaia.tc illands, or diffeienl p-irtr, of the fame. The n'orth-eaft: entrance of this pafTage, or ftreight, lies in the latitude of 10 d. 33 m. S. and in the longi- tude of 2 1 8 d. ^6 m. W. It IS formed by the main, or the northern extremity of New Holland, on the S. E. and by a congeries of iflands, which I called the Prince of Wales's Islands, to the N. W. and it is probable that thefe iflands extend quite to New Guinea. They differ very much both in height and circuit, and many of them ieemed to be well clothed, with herbage and wood ; upon moft, if not all of them, we iaw fmoke, and CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. S4t Ind therefore there can be no doubt of there being in- lai)ited : it is al(b probable, that among them tliere are It lealt as good paiTagcs as that we came through, per- laps better, though better would nc ; need to be dciired, hhe accefs to it, from the eaRward, were [efs danger- nis: that a Icfs dangerous accels may be difcovcred, I lliink, there is little doubt ; and to tmd it, little more leems to be neceOhry, than to determine how far the )niicipal, or outer reef, wliich bouiuls the fhoals to the iibvvard, extends towards tlrj north, which 1 would hot have left to future navigators if I had been lefs ha- j-alfed by danger and fatigue, and had had a ihip in bet- Icr condition for the purpofe. To this channel, or paflage, I have given the name f die Ihip, and called it Endeavour Streights. Its length from N. E. to S. W. is ten leagues, and k is ibout iive leagues broad, except at the north-eaft en- lancc, where it is fomewhat lefs; than two miles, being Icontraifted by the iflands which lie there. That which I called PofTefiinn Ifland is of a moderate height and Icircuii, and this we left betw^een us and the main, paf- |li!ig between it and two fmall round iflands, which lie about two miles to the N. W. of it. The two fmaU iiLmds, which 1 called Wallis's Iflands, he in the mid- dle of the fouth-weft entrance, and thefe we left to the fouthward. Our depth of water in the ftreight, wat from four to nine fathom, with every where good an- chorage, except upon the bank, which Res two league* to the northward of Wallis's Iflands, where, at low- water, there are but three fathom. Bcfarrt »x CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. J^cpa;'fure from Neiv South Wales ; a particular Defer ipM efthc Couju'rvy Us Produ&s and People : A Specimen ofth . Language^ ^c. OF tills country, its prodii^fts, and its people, manyl particulars have already been related in the courfeoifl the narrative, being (o interwoven with the events, as| more if greate? pjri will be found new. New KoHand, or, as I hare now called the eaftem coaft, New South Walev^, is of a larger extent than any otiier country in the known world that docs not bear the name of a continent : the length of the coaft along which we failed, reduced to a flrait line, is no Icfs than I twenty- feven degrees of latitude, amounting to near 2000 miles, fo that its fquare furface muft be much more than equal to all Europe. To the fouthward of 55 or 34, the land in general is low and kvel j farther northward it is hilly, but in no part can be called moun- tainous, and the hills and mountains, taken together, make but a fmall part of the furface, in companion! with the vallies and pLiins. It is upon the whole rather barren than fertile, yet the the rifing ground is che- quered by woods and lawns, and the plains and vallies are in many places covered vvith herbage : the foil howi. ever is frequently fandy, and many of the lawns, or favan^ahs, ^re rocky and barren, efpecially to the northward, where, in the heft fpots, vegetation was lefs vigorous than in the fouthern part of the country ; the trees were not fo tall, nor was the herbage fo rich. 1'hc grafs, in general, is high, but thia j and the treec, where CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 5.}3 [here they are largeft, are feldom lefs than forty fett hinder ; nor is the country inland, as Far as vvc cculi [(.iinii>e it, better clothed than the Tea coail. The hanks t'the hays are covered with mangroves, to tiie diiianc:: If a mile within the beach, under which the foil is a ink mud, that ia always overflowed by a fpring tidt; ; irther in the country we lometijn.es met with a bog, [pon which the grafs was very thick and luxuriant, and )meiiines wllh a valley, that was clothed with under- wood : the foil in ibnie parts feemed to be capable af liiiproveniont» but the far greater part is fuch as can ad- I'.l: oF no cultivation. The coall, at leait that pait of ic ,ich lies to ihc northward of 2 c d. S. abounds witk iae bays and harbours, where veucls may lie in perfect [tcurity from ail winds. If we m.;y judge by the appearance of the country ;hile we were there, which was in the very htiight of the dry Jealon, it is well watered ; we found innurner-- ^ble linall brooks and fprings, but no great rivers ; t heie )rooks, however, probably become large in tlie ruipy M'on. Thirfty Sound was the only place where frcili /ater was not to be procured for tlie fliip, and evea lliere one or two fmall pools were found in the woods^ though the face of the country v,'as every where iiUer- ieded by falt-creeks, and mangrove land. Of trees there is no great variety. Of thofe that cr/M [be called timber, there are but two forts ; the largeli m Ithe gum tree, which grows all over the country, and jks been mentioned already: ic has narrow IcavcR, not lunlike a willow ; and the gum, or rather rofin. wjiicii it yields, is of a deep red, and refend^les iht /annuls dra- \mis ; pofilbly it may be the fame, for this fubiiance Is known to be the produce of more than one plant It is mentioned by Dampier, and is perhaps the fame that Talman found upon Diemen's Land, wliere he fays he law " gum of the trees, and gum lac of the ground.** The other timber tree is that which grows fomewhat like I our pines, and has been particularly mentioned in tlic account 544 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. account of Botany Bay. The wood of both thefe tree! as J have before remarked, is extremely hard and hei Ty. Befides thefe, here are trees covered with a loi bnrk that is eafily peeled off, and is the fame that in t!i| liaf a large chefnut, but rounder;! as we found the hulls of thefe icattered round the pkesl where the Indians had made their fires, we took fori granted that they were fit to eat ; thofe, however, wiiol made the experiment paid dear for their knowledge of I the contrary, for they operated both as an emetic anJi cathartic with great violence. Still, however, we made no doubt but" that they were eaten by the Indians ; and judging that the conftitution of the hogs might be as flrong as theirs, though our own had proved to l)efo much inferior, we carried them to the ilye ; the hogs eat them, indeed, and for fome time we thought with- out fuffering any inconvenience ; but in about a week they were fo much difordcred that two of them died, and the reft were recovered with great difficulty. It is pre bable, however, that the poifonous quality of thele nuts may lie in the juice, like that of the caifada of the Weft Indies ; and that the pulp, when dried, may be 1 not only wholefome, but nutricious. Befides thefe fpe- ...... cies CAPTAIN COOK»s FIRST VOYAGE. 545 clcs of the palm, and mangroves, there were feveral fmall trees and ihrubs altogether unknown «n Europe ; particularly one which produced a very poor kind of lig ; another that bore v/hat we called a plum, which it rei'embled in colour, but not in iliape, being flat on the fides like a little cheele ; and a third that bore a kind of purple apple ; which, after it had been kept a few days, became eatable, and tafted fomewhat like a da- mafcene. Here is a great variety of plants to enrich the collec- tion of a botanift, but very few of them are of the sefcu- lent kind. A fmall plant, with long, narrow, grafly leaves, refembling that kind of bulrufh which, in Eng- land, is called the CatVtail, yields a reiin of a bright yel- low colour, exadly refembling gambouge, except that it does not ftain ; it has a fweet Imell, but its properties we had no opportunity to difcover, a!iy more than thofc of many others with which the natives appeared to be acquainted, as they have dirtinguiilied them bynames. 1 have already mentioned the root and leaves of a plant refembling the cocc)"; of the Weft hidies, and a Kmri of bean ; to which may be added, a fort of parfley and purfelain, and two kinds of yams ; one fliaped like araclifli, and the other round, and covered with ftringy fibres: both forts are very fmall, but fweet: and we never > could find the plants that produced them, though we often faw the places where they had been newly dug up; it is probable that the drought had deftroyed the leaves, and we could not, like the Indians, difcover them by the ftalks. Mod of the fruits of tliir. country, fuch as they are, have been mentioned already. We found one in the louthern part of the coimtry refembling a cherry, ex- cept that the ftone was foft ; and another not unlike a pine-apple in appearance, but of a very difagreeable talle, which is well known in the Eaft Indies, and is called by the Dutch Pyn Jppel Boomen. Of the quadrupeds, 1 have already mentioned the dog, and particularly defcribed the kanguroo, and the Vol.I.~No 14. 3Zi animal SA^ CAPrAlN COOICs FIRST VOYAGE. animal of tl\c opolVum kind, rcfcinhling the phalangct of Buff»)n ; to Nvliich I can add only one more, rcfcm- bling a polecat, which the nativc.s call S^to/I ; the back is brown, fpottcd with white, and the belly white un- mixed. Several of our people faid they had feen wolves ; but, perhaps, if we had not feen tra£tsthat fa- voured the account, we migiit have thought them little more worthy of credit than he who reported that he had ieiMi the devil. Of halts, which hold a middle place between the beads and tiic h/nds, we iaw many kinds, particularly one which, as I have ohicrved already, was larger than a partridge ; we were not fortunate enough to take one either alive or dv pear in a great variety of winding direiftions, all com- municating with each other, and with feveral apertures that lead to other nefts upon the fame tree : they have alfo one large avenue, or covered way, leading to the ground, and carried on under it to the other neft or houfe that is conflrudled there. This houfe is generally at the root of a tree, but not of that upon which their other dwellings are conftruded: it is formed like an irregularly fided cone, and fometimes is more than fix feet high, and nearly ^s much in diameter. Some are fmaller,and thefe are generally flat fided, and very much refemble in figure the ftones which are fecn in many parts of England, and fuppofed to be the remains of druidi^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 549 Jruidical antiquity. The^ outfide of thele is of well fempered cby, about two inches thick ; and within are [he cells, which have no opening outwards, but com- lunicate only with the fubterranean way to the houfei )n the tree, and to the tree near which they are con- trusted, where they afcend up the root, and fo up the [runk and branches, under covered ways of the lame Lind as thofe by which they delcended from their other Iwellings. To thefe flrudlures on the ground they )robably retire in the winter, or rainy fealons, as they irti proof agauilt any wet that can fall ; Vi'hich thofe in he tree, though generally Lonftruded under fome over- anging branch, from the nature and thinnefs of their ruft or wall, cannot be. The fea in this country is much more liberal of food othe inhabitants than th(' land ; and though fifli is not uite fo plenty here as they generally are in higher lati- udcs, yet we feldom hauled the feine without taking rem fifty to two hundred weight. They are of vari- us forts ; but, except the mullet, and fome of the fhell- (h,none of them are known in* Europe: moflofthem re palatable, and fome are very delicious. Upon the oals and reef there are incredible numbers of the fined ;reen turtle in the world, and oyfters of various kinds, articularly the rock-oyfter and the pearl-oyfter. The Jgantic cockles have been mentioned already ; befides hich there are fea-crayfifli, or lobflers, and crabs ; of hefe, hovv^ever, we fav/ only the fhelis. In the rivers d fait creeks there are aligators. The only perfon who has hitherto given any account f this country or its inha!)itants is Dampier, and though le is, in general, a writer of credit, yet in many parti- dars he is miftaken. The people whom he faw were deed inhabitants of a part of the coaft very diilant om that which we vifited ; but we alfo faw inhabi- mts upon parts ot the coaft very diilant from each ither, and there being a perfect uniformity in perfon d cuibius among them all, it is reafonable to con- clude, 550 CAFTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. cUkIc, that (llftancc in another dircdion has not ecu liderably broken it. The number of inhabitants in this country appe to be very i'niall in proportion to its extent. We nevd faw fo many as thirty of them together but once, an that was at Botany Bay, when men, women, and chill oiren, aflembled upon a rock to fee the fhip pafs hyl when they manifeftly formed arefolution to engage u| thoy never could mufter above fourteen or fifteen fighJ ing men ; and we never faw a number of their fliedsq houfes together that could accommodate a larger partyl it is true, indeed, that we faw only the fca-coaft ontla caflcrn lide ; and th:it, betVv'cen this and the wcftenil iliore, there is an immenfe trad: of country wholly un explored : but there is great realbn ^o believe that tliul immenfe tracft is cither wholly defolate, or at Icaft Itiif more thinly inhabited than the parts we vilited. Iti impoflible that the inland country fhould fublift inlia tants at all feafons without cultivation ; it is extreincljl improbable that the inhabitants of the coall lliould totally ignorant of arts of cultivation, which were pric-l tifed inlaiul ; and it is equally improbable that, if tlieyl knew fuch arts, there fhould be no traces of themaJ mong them. It is certain that we did not fee one footl of ground in a flate of cultivation in the whole coiintnil and therefore it may well be concluded that where thel fea does not contribute to feed the inhabitants, the ccia-J try is not inhabited. I Tlie only tribe with which we had any intercourfej vre found where the fliip was careened ; ' it conlifted oT one and twenty perlons; twelve men,feven women, on^ boy, and one girl : the women we never faw hutatJ diliancc ; for when the men came over the river the? were always left behind. The men here, and in othe(| places, were of a middle fr/e, and in general well made clean limbed, and remarkably vigorous, adivc, f-^ nimble : their countenances were not altogether withn out .exjpreflion, and their voices were remaikably ioii and effeminate. _ . CAPTAIN COOIv's FIRST VOYAGE. 53' Tlieir llcins were fo uniformly covered with dirt, that It was very dillicult to alcertain their true colour : we ;acle fcvcral attemptr., by wetting our lingers and rub- ing it, ro remove the incruftations, but with very little (Fed. With the dirt they appear nearly as black as a Jcgroe ; and according to cur beft dilbovcries, tlio lliia lelt is of the colour or wood foot, or what is common- / called a chocolate colour. Their features arc far from t>eing difagreeable, their nofes are not flat, nor are their lips thick ; their teeth are white and even, and their 'lair naturally long and black, it is however univerfaJly topped (hort ; in general it is ftrait, but fometimes it ris a flight curl ; we faw none that was not matted and iltiiy, though without oil or greafe, and, to our great llouilhr "Ut, free from lice. 'Iheir beards were of the "aiiie colour with their hair, and bulhy and thick : they re not however fuffered to grow long. A man whom e had feen one day with his beard fomcwhat longer lian his companions, we faw the next, with it fome- /phat fliorter, and upon examination found the ends of ;he hairs burnt : from this incident, and our having ever feen any fharp inflrument among them, we con- ludcd that both the. hair and the beard were kept fliorc y (inging them. lioth fexes, as I have already obferved, go Hark n,v cd, and feem to have no more fcnfe of indecency in iicovcring the whole body, than we have in difcover- Tig our hands and face. Their principal ornament is e bone which they thruft through the cartilage that ivides the nofl:rils from eacli otiier : what perverlion f tafte could make them think this a decoration, or 'hat could prompt them, before they had worn it or ieea it worn, to fufifer the pain and inconvenience that' lift of necefliity attend it, is perhaps beyond the power f human fagacity to determine : as this bone is as thick «sa man's linger, and between five and fix inches long, reaches quite acrofs the face, and fo effedually ftops p both the noftrils that they are forced to keep their mouths. 55^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. mouths wide open for breath, and fnuffle To when iM attempt to fpeak, that they are fcarcely intelligible evJ to each other. Our feamen, with fome humour, calij it their fpritfail-yard ; and indeed it had fo hidicrousi appearance, that till we v;ere ufed to^t, we found itci| ficult to refrain from laughter. Befidc this nofe- jewel, they had necklaces made i fliells, very neatly cut and ftrung together ; bracelets ( fmallcord, wound two or three times about the upp part of their arm, and a firing of plaited human hi about as thick as a thread of yarn^ tied round the wailj Befides thefe, fome of them had gorgets of (hells harg ing round the neck, fo as to reach crofs the brcaft. Bil though thefe people wear no clothes, their bodies ha? a covering befides the dirt, for they paint them bdlj white and red ; the red is commonly laid on in braJ patches upon the Hiouldcrs and brcaft ; and the wliiij in ftripes, fome narrow, and fome broad : the narro^i were drawn over the limbs, and the broad over the bodj] not without fome degree of tafte. The white was ali ]aid on in fmall patches upon the face, and drawn ini circle round each eye. The red feemed to be ochre, but what the white was we could not difcover ; it clofe grained, faponaceous to the touch, and almoftaj heavy as white lead ; poflibly it might be a kind o(| Steatites, but to our great regret we could not procure! bit of it to examine. They have holes in their eais,bu we never faw any thing worn in them. Upon fucli| ornaments as they had, they fct fo great a value, that! they would never part with the lead article for any thing^ We could offer ; which was the more extraordinary i" our beads and ribbands were ornaments of the fame kind but of a more regular form and more (howy material'. They had indeed no idea of traffic, nor could we com- municate any to them : they received the things thatwd gave them ; but never appeared to underfland •urrignj when we required a return. The fame indifferencr which prevented them frotn buying what we had, pre vented them alfo from attempting to ileal : if they I121I covct-l CAPTAIN COOK'3 FIRST VOYAGE. 553 co%'eted more, they would have been lefs honcft ; for when wc rel'ui'ed to give them a turtle, they were en- raged, and attempted to take it hy force, and we had nothinj; elfs upon which they feemed to fet the lead value ; for, as I have before obferved, many of the things that we had given them, we found left negligent- ly about in the woods, like the playthings of children, which pleafe only while they are new. Upon their bodies we faw no marks of difeafe or fores, but large fears in irregular lines, which appeared to be the re- mains of wounds which they had inflicted upon them- felves with fome blunt inllrument, and which we un- derftood by ligns to have been memorials of gvief for the dead. They appeared to have no fixed habitations, for we faw nothing like a town or village in the whole country. Their houfes, if houfes they may be called, feem to be formed with lefs art and induftry than any wc had feen, e?:cept the wretched hovels at Terra del Fuego, and in fome refpeds they are inferior even to them. At Bo- tany Bay, where they were beft, they were jnfl high enough for a man to lit upright in ; but not large enough for him to extend himlclf in his whole length in any direction : they are built with pliable rods about as thick as a man's finger, in the form of an oven, by fticking the two ends into the ground, and then cover- ing them with palm leaves, and broad pieces of ijark : the door is nothing but a large hole at one end, oppolito to which the fire is made, as we perceived by the athcs. Under thefe houfes, or fheds,they deep, coiled up with their heels to their h5ad ; and in this polition one of them will hold thr^e or four perfons. As we advanced northward, and the climate became warmer, we found thefe flieds ftill more flight : they were built, like the others, of twigs, and covered with bark ; but none of them were more than four feet deep, and one fide was intirely open : the clofe fide was always oppofed to the courfeof the prevailing wind, and oppofite to the open fide was the fire, probably more as a defence from the Vol.i.~N« 14. 4 A muC- 554 CAPTAIN COOK*s FIRST VOYAGE. miifquitos tlian the cold. Under thefe hovels, it is pro- bable, that they thruft only their heads and the upper part of their bodies, extending their feet towards the lire. They were i'et up occaiionally by a wandering; hord, in any place that would furnifh them for a time with fiibfillence, and left behind them when, after it was exhanftcil, they went away : but in places whe'e they remained only for a ni^ht or two, they flept with- out any fhelter, except the Imfiies or grafs, which is here near two feec high. We obferved, however, that though the fleeping huts which we found upon the main, were always turned from the prevailitig wind, thofe upon the illarids were turned towards it ; which i'eems to be a proof that they have a mild feafon here, during which the fea is calm, and that the fame weather which enables them to viiit the iflands, makes the air welcome even while they ilecp. The only furniture belonging to thefe houfes-that ft 11 under our obfervation, is a kind of oblong vellel made of bark, by the fimple contrivance of tying up the two ends with a withy, which not being cut ofFferves for a handle ; thefe we imagined were uled as buckets to fetch water from the fpring, which may be fuppofed fome- times to be at a confiderable dirtance. They have however a fmall bag, about the fize of a moderate cab- bag*e-net, which is made by laying threads loop withia loop, fomevvhat in the manner of knitting ufed by our ladies to make purfcs. This bag the man carries loofe iipon his back by a fmall firing which pafles over his head ; it generally contains a lump or two of paint and refm, fonie fiQi- books and lines, a fhell or two, cut of which their hooks are made, a few points of darts, and their ufual ornaments, which includes the whble worldly treafure of the rich eft man among them. Their fifli-hooks are very neatly made, and fome of them are cxcoedingly fmall. For ftriking turtle they Kavd a peg of wood which is about a foot long, and very well bearded ; this fits into a focket at the end of a ftaiF of light wood, about as thick as a man'* wrift, and ,.-- about CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 8" *• '* about feven or eight feet lonpj : to the ftafFis tied one end of a loofe line ahnut three or four t^ilioai long, the other end of which is fallcned to the peg. To llrikq the turtle, the peg is fixed into the focket, and when it ha*", entered his hody, and is retained there by the barb, the ftafF flies off and ferves for a float to trace their vic- tim in the water ; it affifls alib to tire him, till they can overtake him with their canoes, and !\aul him afliorc, One of thefe pegs, as 1 have mentioned already, we found buried in the body of a turtle, whicl^had healed uj) over it. Their lines are from the thicknefs of a half inch rope to the fmenefs of a hair, and are made of fome vegetable fubftance, but what in particular we had no opportunity to learn. Their food is chiefly fifh, though they fom'etimea contrive to kill the kanguroo, and even birds of various kinds ; natwithftanding they arc fo fhy that we found it difficult to get within reach of them with a fowling^ piecfe. The only vegetable that can be conlidered as an article of food is the yam ; yet iloubtlefs they eat the fe-^ veral fruits which have been mentioned among other productions of the country ; and indeed we law the fhells and hulls of feveral of them lying about the places where they had kindled their fire. They do not appear to eat any animal food raw ; but having no vefTel in which water can be boiled, they either broil it upon the coals, or bake it in a hole by the help of hot {tones, in the fame manner as is praCtiibd by the inhabitants of the iflan Is in the South Seas. Whether they are acquainted with any plant that ha$ an intoxicating quality, we do not know ; but we ob- ferved that feveral of them held haves of fome fort con* flantly in their mouths, as an European does tobacco, and an Eaft Indian betele : we never faw the planr, but when they took it from their rhouths at our requefl ; poffibly it might be a fpecies of the betele, but, what- ever it was, it had no effedt upon the teeth or the lips. As they have no nets, they catch fiih only by ftriking, 4 A a or IP 55« CAPTAIN COOK'a FIRST VOYAGE. or with a hook and line, except fuch as they find in the hollows of the rocks and fhoalc, which are dry at half ebb. Their manner of hunting we had no opportunity to fee ; hut we conjeAured by the notches which they had every where cut in lar^e trees in order to clin^b them, that they took their ftarion near the tops of tJiem, and there watched for fuch animals as might happen to pafs near enough to he reached by their lances : it is poflible alfc^ that in this fituation they might take birJs when they came to rooft. I have obferved that when they went from our tents upon the banks of Endeavour river, vrc cr,uld trace them by the lires which they kin-Jled in their way ; and we imagined that thcfe fires were intended feme v/ay for the taking the kanguroo, which we ohi'erved to be fo much afraid of fire, that our dogs could fcarcely force it over places which had been newly burnt, though the fire was extinguiflied. "" ty produce fire with great facility, and fpread it in a \ .laerful manner. To produce it they take two pieces of dry foft wood, one is a ftick about eight or nine inches long, the other piece is flat : the (tick they fhape into an obtufe jjoint at one end, and prefiing it upon the other, turn it nimbly by holding it between both their hands as we do a chocolate mill, often fhift- ing their hands up, and then moving them down upon it, to increafe the prefTure as much as poflible. By this method they get hre in lels (fhan two minutes, and from the fmalleft fpark they increafe it with great fpecd and dexterity. We have often feen one of them run along the (hore, to all appearance, with nothing in his hand, who (looping down for a moment, at the diftance of every -fifty or a hundred yards, left fire behind him, as we could fee firft by the fmoke, and then by the flame among the drift wood, and other litter which was Icat- tcred along the place. We had the curiofity to examinp one of thcfe planters of fire, when h? fet off, and we faMT CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYACE. 557 Iw him wrap up a fmall fpark i!\ dry grals, wiiicb, (hen he had mil a httic way, havinpj heeii fanned hy le air that his morion produced be{^;m to blaze ; lie len laid it down in a place convenient for his purpoic, icloling a fpark of it in another quantity of grafp, and continued his courfe. There are perhaps few thinpjs in the hillory of man- pnd more extraordinary than the difcovery and iippli- jtion of fire : it will fcarccly be diipnted that the man-. |er of producing it, whether by collirmn or attrition, m difcovered by chance : but its firll cffcds would ivat irally ilrike thole to whom it was a new objedl, wirh Tifternatlon and terror : it would appear to he an enc- iy to life and nature, and to torment and dellroy what- Tcr was capable of being deitroyed or tormented; d therefore it feems not eafy to conceive what lliould icline tholb who firft faw it receive a tranfient cxiftence i-cin chance, to reproduce it bv dcfign. It is by no leans probable that thofe who firfl law fire, approach- d it with the fame caution, as thofe who are fain^iliar mh its effects, fo as to be warmed only and not burnt 3 Ind it is reafonable to think that the intolerable pain vhich, at its firft appearance, it muft produce upon ig-f lorant curiofity, would fow perpetual enmity between nis element and mankind ; and that the fame principle ?hich incites them to cruih a ferpent, would incite them )deftroy hre, and avoid all means by which it would be produced, as foon as they were known. Thefe cir* lumftances confidered, how mefi became lufficiently fa-, pillar with it to render it ufeful, feems to be a problem [cn' difficult to folve : nor is it eafy to account for the application of it to culinary purpofes, as the eating 3th animal and vegetable food raw, mull have become i habit, before there was fire to drefs it, and thofe who ave confidered the force of habit will readily believe, it to men who had always eaten the flefh of animait aw, it would be as difagreeable dreifed, as to thofe who favc always eaten it drefled, it would be raw. It is re- Wkable that the inhabitants of Terra dql Fuego pror ducc 53« CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. «!iH:e fire from a fpark by col II Hon, a?id that the happier natives of this counrry, i\ew Zealand, and Ornhtit?, prDdiK^e it by the attrition of one coinbiittlble rubliancel jj'Hinlt another : is theie not then foine realc n to lup-l pofe tliat thefc different operations correipon^l wiilithe 3n::nncr in which cUaiK-e produced (ire in tht: ndgh- hoiirliond of the torrid and frigid zones ? Anion;:; the nidc inhabitants of a cold country, neither any opaa* lion or art, or occurrence of accident, could he luppolLd ib ealily to produce iire by attrition, as in a clini'ite where every thing is jiot, dry, and aduft, teeminc; with 2. latent fire which a llight degree of motion was l'i,;|. ficient to call forth ; in a cold country, therefore, it is' tiataral to iiippol'e that iire was produced by the acci-l 'dental collilion oftwoVnetallic fubltancc;, andinacolul couniry, for that reafon, the fame expedient was liied to produce it by defign : but in hot countries, wHere tv>o| eombullible fultances cafdy kindle by attrition, it is pro liable that the attrition of luch fubftances firft prodii-.J ftre, and here it was therefore natural for art to- adopt the iame operation, with a view to produce the iamel cffc<^l. It may, indeed, be true that iire is now prol rfuced in many cold countries by attrition, and in marivl hot by a ilroke ; but, perhaps, upon enquiry there mayf appear reafon to conclude that this has ariien from tlier communication of oiie country with another, and thsj •with refpedt to the original pro the refolution with which two of them attempt- ed to prevent our landing, vs hen we had two boats full of men, in Botany Bay, even after one of them was wounded with fmall mot, gave us reafon to conclude that they were not only naturally courageous, but that they had acquired a familiarity with the dangers of hof- tility, and wetc, by habit, as well as nature, a daring and warlikc-people ; but their precipitate flight from every O^er place th^t we approached, without even a menace, while they weVe out of our reach, was an indication of uncommon taibenefs and timidity, fuch as thoie who had only been occafionally warriors mufl be fuppofcd to have (haken off, whatever might have been their na- tural difpofition. 1 have faithfully related fads, the reader muft judge of the people for himfelf. From CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 5^3 From the account that has been ^Iven of our com- merce with them, it cannot be Tuppoled that we fhould know much of their language ; yet as this is an objeYarcaw ufed when they were in company ^ith us Tut, tut, tut, tut. f^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE, 1^ ^x* The Pajagefrom New South Wales to New Guinea^ with an Account of what hafpenedupon landing there. IN the afternoon of Thurfday, Auguft the 2^^(1, after having Boobv Ifland, we fleered W. N. W. with light aire from the S. S. W. till five o'clock, when it fell calm, and the tide of ebb foon after fetting to the N. E. we came to an anchor in eight fathom water^ with a foft fandy bottom. Booby Ifland bore S. 50 E. diftant five miles, and the Prince of Wales's Iflcs extended from N. E. by N. to S. ^^ E. between thefe there appeared to be a clear open paflage, extending from N. 40 E. to E.byN. At half an hour after five in the morning of the 24th, as we were pm'chafing the anchor, the cable parted at about eight or ten fathom from the ring : the mip then began to drive, but I immediately dropped another an- chor, which brought her up before (he got more than a cable's length from the buoy; the boats were then fent to fweep for the ai¥:hor, but could not fucceed. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 10 d. 30 m. S. As 1 was refolved not to leave the anchor behind, while there remained a poflibility of recovering it, I fent the iboats .^ain after dinner, with a fmall line, to difcover phere it lay ; this being happily cfFe«Sled, we fwept for it with a hawfer, and by the fame hawfer hove the (hip 'ip to it : we proceeded to weigh it, but juft as we were w)ut to (hip it, the hawfer flipped, and we had all Qur labour to repeat : by this time it was dark, and we were obliged to fufpend our operations till the morning. As foon as it was light, we fweeped it again, and teved it to the bows : by ei^Ut o'clgck, we weighed she l66 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. the other anchor, got under fail, and, with a fine br« at E. N. E. flood to the nortl\-weft. At noon, our 1 titude, by obfcrvatlon, was lod. i8m. S. longitui 2 1 9 d. 39 m. \V. At this time we had no land in figl but about two miles to the fouthward of us lay a larj fhoal, upon which the fea broke with great violence, ar part of which, I believe, is dry at low water. It txteni N. W. and S. E. and is about live leagues in circui Our depth of water, from the time we weighed ti now, was nine fathom, but it foon fliailowed to fevc fathom ; and at half an hour after one, hairing m eleven miles between noon and that time, the bo; wl)icb was ahead made the fignal for flioal water; w immediately let go an anchor, and brought the fhip u with all the iails Handing, for the boat having juft bee relieved, was at b-.it a little diftance : upon looking oil from the ihip, we faw fhoal water almoft all round ui both wind and tide at the fame time fetting uponli The fhip was iu iix fathom, but upijii founding rouiK her, at the diftance of half a cable's length, we foiin( fcarcely two. This Ihoal reached from the eaft, roun( by the north and weft, as far as the fouth^weft, fo tha there was tio way for us to get clear but that which w{ came. This was another hair's-breadth efcape, for it u* near hip,h water, and there run a (liort cockling fea,whlcl muft very foon have bulged the fhip if (he had (truck; an( if her direiflipn had been half a cable's length moreeithe to the right or left, flie muft have ftruck before the figna for the ihoal was made. The fhoals which, likethefe lie a fathom or two under w^atcr, are the moft danger ous of any, for they do not difcover themi'elves till th veflel is juft upon them, and then indeed the watc looks brown, as if it refleded a dark cloud. Betweei three and four o'clock the tide of ebb began to im^it and I fent the mafter to found to the fouthward ani ibuth-weft ward, and in the mean time, as the Ihip tend eil, I weighed anchor, and with a little fail ftood firit « the fouthward, a::d afterwards edging away to the weft waid, got once more out of danger. At liinfet, we ao chorf< CAPTAIN COOK»s FIRST VOYAGE. 5^7 thoreJ in ten fathom, with a fandy bottom, having a Frefli gale at E. S. V. ^ At iix in the tnornino:, we weighed again and flood /eft, having, as iifual, hrfl: lent a boat ahead to found. I lad intended to fteer N. W. till I had made the foutli coart of New Guinea, defigning, if poffible, to touch ipon it ; but upon meeting w'ith thefe Ihoals, I altered ny courfe, in nopes of finding a clearer channel, and leeper water. In this I fucceeded, for by noon our iepth of water was gradually increafed to leventecnfa- Ihom. Our latitude was now, by obfervarion, lo d. (10 m. S. and our longitude 220 d. 12 m. W. No land ^vas in fight. We "continued to fteer weft till funlet, pur depth of water being from twenty- fcven to twenty- ^hrce fathom : we then ihoi tened fail, and kept upon wind all night ; four hours on one tack and four on mother. At day-light on the 27th, w^e made all the fail we could, and fteered W. N. W. till eight o'clock, and ^hen N. W. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, m 9 d. ^6 m. S. longitude 221 d. W. variation 2 d. jo m. E. We continued our N. W. couife till fun- fet, when we again ftiortened fail, and hauled clofe up- a wind to the northward : our depth of water was [vveiity one fathom. At eight, we tacked, and ftood to the fouthward till [welve ; then ftood to the northward with httle fail till lay-light the next morning : our foundings were from hventy-tive to feventeen fathom, the wiiter growing gradually fhallow as we ftood to the northward. At fhis time we made fail and ftood to the north, in order to lake the land of New Guinea : from tlie time of onr [naking fail till noon, the depth of water gradually de-^ preafed from feventeen 10 twelve fathom, with a ftony and ftielly bottom. Our latitude, by obfervation, was flow 8 d. 52 m. S. which is in the fame parallel as that p which the fouthern parts of New Guinea are laid lownj but there are only f.vo points io far to the fouth, \ i6t CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. fouth, and I reckoned that we were a degree to the weftward of them both, and therefore did not fee the land, which trends more to the northward. We found the lea here to be in many parts covered with a brown fcum, fuch asfailors generally call fpawn. When 1 firft faw it, I was alarmed, fearing that we were among fhoals; but upon founding, we found the fame depth of water as in other places. This fcum was examined both by Mr Banks and Dr Solander, but they could not deter- xxiine what it was : it was formed of innumerable fmall particles, not more than half a line in length, each of which in the microfcope appeared to confift of thirty or forty tubes ; and each tube was divided through its whole length by fmalL partitions into many cells, like the tubes of tne conferva : they were fuppofed to belong to the vegetable kingdom, becaufe Upon burning them they produced no imeli like that of an animal fubflance. The fame appearance had been obferved upon the coaft of Brazil and New Holland, but never at any confiderabie diflance from the Ihore. In the evening a fmall bird hovered about the (hip, and at night, fettling among the rigging, was taken. It proved to be exactly the fame bird which Dampier has defcribed, and of which he has given a rude figure, by the name of a Noddy from New Holland. We continued Handing to the northward with a frefli gale till fix in the evening, having very irregular found- ings, the depth changing at once from twenty four fa- thom to feven. At four, we had feen the land from the maft-head, bearing N. W. by N. it appeared to be very low, and to ftretch from W. N. W. to N. N. H. diftant four or five leagues. We now hauled clofe upon a wind till feven, then tacked and flood to the fouthward till twelve, at which time we wore and flood to the north- ward till four in the morning of the 29th, then laid the head of the vefTel ofTtill day light, when we again faw the land, and ftood in N. N. W. dircQly for it, with a frefti gale at E. by S. Our foundings during the night were very irregular from feven to five fathom, fuddenly chang- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOTAGE. 5^9 chanp;lng from deep to fliallow, and from fhallow to deep, without in the leall correfpording with our dif- tance from the land. At half an hour after fix in the morning a fmall low ifland, which lay at the diftanceof about a league from the main, horc N. by W. diftant Hve miles: this ifland lies in latitude 8 d. 13 m. S. lon- gitude 221 d. 25 m. W. and I find it laid down in the charts by the names of Bartholomew and Whermoyfen. \Vc now fleered N. W. by W. W. N. W. W. by N. \V. by S. and S. W. by W. as we found the land lie, with from five to nine fathom ; and though we reckon- ed we were not more than four leagues from it, yet it w^s fo low and level that we could but juft fee it from the deck. It appeared however to be well covered with wood, and among other trees, we thought w^e could (iiibover the cocoa-nut. We faw fmoke in ievcral places, and therefore knew there were inhabitants. At noon, we were about three leagues from the land ; the wefter- moll part of which that was in fight bore S. 79 d. W. Our latitude, by obfervation, was 8 d. 19 m. S. and lon- gitude 2 2 1 d. 44 m. W. The ifland of St Bartholomew bcrc N. 74 E. diftant 20 miles. After lleering S. W. by W. fix miles, we had fiioal water on our Itarboard bow, which I fent the ya.cl to found, and at the fame time hauled oflf upon a wind till tour o'clock, and though during that time we had rua (ix miles, w»e had not deepened our water an inch. I then edged away S. W. four miles more ; but finding it ftiil fhoal water, I brought 10 and called the boats aboard. At this time, being between three and four leagues from the fliore, and the yawl having found only three fathom water in the place to which I had fent her ro found, I hauled ofFclofe upon a wind, and weathered the fiioal about half a mile. Between one and two o'clock, we pafled a bay or inlet between which lies a fmall ifland that feems to (belter it from the foutherly winds ; but I very much doubt whether there is fuflicient depth of water behind it for ihlpping. I could not attempt to determine the queftion, Vol.I.-N'' 15. 4 C Le- 57« CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. Lecaufe the S. E. trade wind blows right into the bay, and we had not as yet had any breeze from the land. We ftretched off to fea till twelve o'clock, when we were about eleven leagues from the land, and had deep- ened our water to twenty- nine fathom. We now tact- ed and flood in till five in the morning of the ^oth, when, being in fix fathom and an half, we tacked and laid the head of the veflel off till day-light, when we faw the land bearinp; N. W. by W. at about the diftancc of fbur leagues. We now made fail, and fleered firfl W, S. W. then VV. by S. but coming into five fathom and an half, we hauled off S. W. till we deepened our wa- ter to eight fathom, and then kept away W. by S. and W. having nine fathom, and the land jufl in fight from the deck ; we judged it to be about four leagues diHant, and it was flill very low and woody. Great quantities of the browm fcum continued to appear upon the w^ater, and the failors, having given up the notion of its being fpawn, found a new name for it, and called it Sea-faw- dufl. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 8 d. ^o m. S. our longitude 222 d. 34 m. W. and Saint Bartholomew's Ifle bore N. 69 E. diilant feventy-four miles. As all this coafl appears to have been very minutely examined by the Dutch, it is fufficient to fay, that wc continued our courfe to the northward with very flial- low water, upon a bank of mud, at fuch a diflance from the (bore as that it could fcarcely be feen from the (hip, till the 3d of September. During this time we made many attempts to get near enough to go on (hore, but without fuccefs ; and having now lofl fix days of fair wind, at a time when we knew the fouth-eafl monfoon to be nearly at an end, we began to be impatient of farther delay, and determined to run the fhip in as near to the (hore as poflible, and then land with the pinnace, while (he kept plying off and on, to examine the pro- duce of the country, and difpofition of the inhabitants. For the two lafl days we had early in the morning a light breeze from the ihore, which was ftrongly impreg- nated CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 57» nated with the fragrance of the trees, (hrubs, and her- bage that covered it,^ the fmell being fomcthing like that of Gum Benjamin. On the ;3d of September, at day-break, we faw the land extending from N. by E. to S. E. at about four leagues diftance, and we then kept {landing in for it with a frefh ^ale at E. S. E. and E. by S. till nine o'clock^ when being within about three or four miles of it, and in three fathom water, we brought to. The pinnace being hoifted out, I fet off from the (hip witii the boat's crew, accompanied by Mr Banks, who alio took his fervants, and Dr Solander, being in all twelve perfons well armed ; we rowed diredly towards the fhore, but the water was fo (hallow that we could not reach it by about two hundred yards : we waded however the reft of the way, having left two of the feamen to take care of the boat. Hitherto we had feen no ligns of inhabi- tants at this place ; but as foon as w^e got a(hore we dif- covered the prints of human feet, which could not long have been imprefl'ed upon the fand, as they were below high-water marie : we therefore concluded that the peo- ple were at no great diftance, and, as a thick wood came down within a hundred yards of the water, we thought it necefTary to proceed with caution, left we (hould fall into an ambufcade and our retreat to the boat be cut ofF, We walked along the (kirts of the wood, and at the diftance of about two hundred yards from the place where we landed, we came to a grove of cocoa-nut trees, which ftood upon the banks of a little brook of brackhh water. The trees were of a fmall growth, but well hung with fruit ; and near them was a ihed or hut, which had been covered with their leaves, though moft of them were now fallen off: about the hut lay a great number of the (hells of the fruit, fome of which ap» peared to be juft frefh from the tree. We looked at the fruit very wiihfully, but not thinking it fafe to climb, we were obliged to leave it without tafting a fingle nut. At 4 Ucde diftance from this place we found plantains, ^Q 2 ana 571 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. and a bread-fruit tree, but it had nothing upon it ; and having now advanced about a quaiter of a mile from the boat, three Indians rufhed out of the wood with a hideous fhout, at about the diftance of a hundred yards; and as they ran towards us, the foremoft threw forne- thing out of his hand, which flew on one iide of him, and burnt exa£lly like gun-powder, but made no re- port : the other two inftantly threw their lances at us ; and, as no time was now to be loft, we difchargcd our Eicces, which were loaded with finall fhot. It is pro- able that they did not feel the fhot, for, though they . halted a moment, they did not retreat ; and a third dart was thrown at us. As we thought their farther ap- proach might be prevented with lels rifk of life, than I would coft to defend ourfelves againll their attack, if they (hould come nearer, we loaded our pieces with ball, and fired a fecond time : by this difcharge it is pro- bable that fome of them were wounded ; yet we had the fatisfa(ffcion to fee that they all ran away with grtat agility. As I was not difpofed forcibly to invade this country, either to gratify our appetites or our curiofity, and perceived that nothing was to be done upon friend- ly terms, we improved this interval, in which the de- iirudion of the natives was no longer necelfary to our own defence, and with all expedition returned towards our boat. As we were advancing along the (hore, we perceived that the two men on board made fignals that more Indians were coming down : and before we got into the water we faw feveral of them coming rouAd a point at the diftance of about five hundred yards : it is probable that they had met with the three who firft at- tacked us : for as foon as they faw us they halted and feemed to wait till their main body fhould come up. We entered the w^ater, and waded towards the boat ; and they remained at their ftation, without giving us any interruption. As foon as we were aboard we row- ed abreaft of them, and theii* number then appeared to be between fixty and a hundred. We now took a view of them at our leifure > they made much the fame - appea> CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. 573 it; and lie from I with a j yards ; V Ibme- of him, e no re- ;8 at us ; rged our [t is pro- Ligh they hird dart rther ap- 'e,thaiii. attack, if sees with ; it is pre- t we had vith great ivade this j curiofity, )n frieiid- ch the de- iry to our d towards "here, we gnals that •e we got rcuAd a ards ; it is lo iirft at- alted and come up. the boat; giving us i we row- pcared to w took a the fame appea> appearance as the New Hollanders, being nearly of the iame llature, and having their hair Ihort cropped : like tliem alio they were all liark naked, hut we thought the colour of their Ikin was not quite fo dark ; this however might perhaps be merely the effedl of their not being (|uitc (o dirty. All this while they were (houting dc- iiance, and letting off their lires by four or five at a time. What thcfe fires were, or for what purpofe intended, we could not imagine : thofe who diicharged them had in their hands a Ihort piece of ftick, poflibly a hollow cane, which they fwung lideways from them, and we immediately faw fire and fmoke, exadtly reiembling thofe of a mufquet, and of no longer duration. This wonderful phrEnomenon was obferved from the (hip, and the deception was fo great, that the people on board thought they had fire-arms ; and in the boat, if we had not been fo near as that we mud have heard the report, we fhould have thought they had been firing vollies. After we had looked at them attentively fome time, I without taking any notice of their flaftiing and vocifer- ation, we fired fonie mufquets over their heads : upon hearing the balls rattle among the trees, they walked Icifureljr aw^ay, and we returned to the: fhip. Upon lexamining the Vv'eapons they had thrown at us, we llound them to be light darts, about four feet lone, very lill made of a reed or bamboo cane, and pointed with Jiard wood, in which there were many barbs. The/ ivere difcharged with great force ; for though we were at fixty yards diftance, they went beyond us, but in kvhat manner we could not exadlly fee : poiribly they pight be fhot with a bow ; but we faw no bows amon^j ihem when we furveyed them from the boat, and we |vere in general of opinion that they were thrown with ftick, in the manner praQifed by the New Hol- mders. • This place lies in the latitude of 6 d. 15 m. S. and iDout lixty-five leagues to the N. E. of Port Saint Au- juiline, or Walche Caep, and is near what is called in ^e charts C. de la Colta de St Bonaventura. The land here, 574 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. here, like that in every other part of the coaft, is very low, but covered with a luxuriance of wood and her- bage that can fcarceiy be conceived. We faw the cocoa-nut, the bread-fruit, and the plantain tree, all llouriihing in a ftate of the higheft perfeiflion, though the cocoa- nuts were green, and the bread-fruit not in . feafon ; bcfides moil of the trees, (hrubs, and plants that are common to the South Sea iliands, New Zealand, and New Holland. Soon after our return to the fliip, "vv** holfted in the boat and made fail to the weitvvard, being refolved to fpend no more time upon this coaft, to the great iatis- • hOiion of a very confiderable majority of the fhip's com- pany. But I am forry to fay that I was ftrongly urged by fome of the officers to fend a party of men alhorc, . and cut down the cocoa-nut trees for the fake of the fruit. This} I peremptorily refufed, as equally unjull and cruel. The natives had attacked us merely for landing upon their coaft, when we attempted to take nothing away, and it v^^as therefore morally certain thatj they would have made a vigorous effort to defend their property if it had been invaded, in which cafe manyotj them mull have fallen a facrifice to our attempt, and | perhaps alfo fome of our own people. I fhould have, regretted th6 necefTity of fuch a meafure, if I had been in want of the necelfaries of life ; and certainly it would have been highly criminal when nothing was to be ob- tained but two or three hundred of green cocoa-nuts, which would at moft have procured us a mere tranfieiit gratification. I might indeed have proceeded firtherl along the coaft to the northward and weft ward, infean:li| of a place where the fhip might have lain fo near the! Ihore as to cover the people with her guns when tlieyj landed ; but this would have obviated only part of tkl inilVhief, and though it might have fecured us, it woulaj probably in the very a£l have been fatal to the nativeij l3e{ides, we had reafon to think that before fuch a place! would have been found,we (hould have been carried wj far to the weft ward as to have been obliged to go toBata-l CAPTAIN CCOK'3 FIRST VOYAGE. Si: via, on the north fide of Java ; which I did not think lb fafe a paflagc as to the foiith of Java, through the Streights of Sunda : the fliip alfo was fo leaky that I doubted whether it would not be neceffary to heave her down a't Batavia- which was another reafon for making the beft of our way to that place ; efpecially as no dil- covery could be expe£lcd in feas which had already been navigated, and w^here every coaft had been laid down by the Dutch geographers. The Spaniards in- deed, as well as the Dutch, feem to have circumnavi-i gated all the iflands in New Guinea. As the two countries lie very near each other, and the intermediate fpace is full of iflands, it is reafonable to fiippofe that they were both peopled from one common ftock : yet no intercourfe appears to have been kept up between them ; for if there had, the cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, plantains, and other fruits of New Guinea^ which are equally neceffary for the fupport of life,would j certainly have been tranfplanted to New Holland, where j no traces of them are to be found. The Author of the " Hiftoire des Navigationes aux Tc/res Auftrales,'* in his account of La Maire's voyage, has given a vocabu- lary of the language that is ^^oken in an iHand near New Britain, and we find, by comparing that vocabu- lary with the words which we learnt in Nev/ Holland, that the languages are not the fame. If therefore it (hould appear, that the languages of New Britain and New Guinea are the fame, there will be reafon to fup- pofe that New Britain and New Guinea were peopled tram a common ilock ; but that the inhabitants of New IHolland had a different origin, notwithftandlng the proximity of the countries. Ue 556 CAPTAIN C00K*8 FIRST VOYAGE. The Pajfage from Nezu Guinea to the JJIand of Savu^ and ^ . the Tranfailions there. WE made fail, from noon on Monday the 3d to noon on Tuefday the 4th, Handing to the weftward, and all the time kept in foundings, having from four- teen to thirty fathom ; not regular, but fometimes more, fometimes lefs. At noon on the 4th, we were in four- teen fathom, and in latitude 6 d. 4A m. S. longitude 223 d. 51m. W. our courfe and diuance fince the •jd at noon, were S. 76 W. one hundred and twenty miles to the weftward. At noon on the cth of September, we were in lati- tude 7 d. 25 m. S. longitude 225 d. 41 m. W. having been m foundings the whole time from ten to twenty fathom. At half an hour after one in the morning of the next day, we paifed a fmall ifland which bore from us N. N. W. diftant between three and four miles ; and at day- light we difcovered another low ifland, extending from N. N. W. to N. N. E. diftant about two or three leagues. Upon this ifland, which did not appear to be very imall, ^ believe I (hould have laiided to examine its produce, if the wind had not blown too frelh >j admit of it. When we pafled this ifland we had only ten fathom water, with a rocky bottom ; and therefore I was af aid of running dov/n to leeward, left 1 Ihould meet with fhoal water and foul ground. We continued to fteer W. S. W. at the rate of four miles and an half an hour, till ten o'clock at night, when we had forty-two fathom, at eleven we had thirty- feven, at twelve forty-five, at one in the morning forty- nine, .^-" CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 577 nine, and at three 1 20, after which we had no ground. At day-light, we made all the fail we could, and at ten o'clot.!:, faw land, extending from N. N. W. to W. by N. diftant between five and lix leagues : at noon, it bore from In', to W. and at about the fame diftance : it ap- peared to be level, and of a moderate height : by our (lilbnce f\'om New Guinea, it ought to have been part ot tlie Arrou Iflands, hut it lies a degree farther to the fouth than any of theJe iflands are laid down in the charts ; and by the latitude (hculd be Timor Laoel : we founded, but had no ground with fifty fathom. As I was not able to fatisfy myfelt from any chnrt, what land it was that I faw^ to leeward, and fearing that it might trend away more fouthcrly, the weather alio be- ing To hazy that we could not fee far, I fleered S. W. and by four had loft light of the ifland. I was now fure that no part of it lay to the fouth ward of 8 d. 15 m. S. and continued ftanding to the S. W. with an eafy fail, and a frcfh breeze at S. E. by E. and E. S. E. we founded every hour, but had no bottom with 120 fa- thom. At day-break in the morning, w^e fleered W. S. Wi and afterwards W. by S. which by noon brought us into the latitude of 9 d. 30 m. S. longitude 229 d. 34 m. W. and by our run from New Guinea, we ought to have heen within fight of Weafel Ifles, which in the charts arc laid down at the diftance of twenty or twenty-five leagues from the coaft of New Holland ; we however faw nothing, and therefore they muft have been placed erroneoufly ; nor can this be thought ftrange, when it is confidered that not only thefe iflands, but the coaft which bounds this fea, have been difcovered and ex- plored by different people, and at different times, and the charts upon which they are delineated, put togetlier by others, perhaps at the diftance of more than a cen- tury after the difcoveries had been m^dc : not to mention that the difcoverers themfelves had not all the requifites for keeping an accurate journal, of which thofe of the prefent age are poflfelTed. Vol.I.-N'> 15. 4D We f J7« CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. . We continued oar courfe, (leering W. till the evening of the 8th, when the variation of the compafs, by feveral azimuths, was 1 3 m. W. and by the amplitude, 5 m. \V. At noon, on the c)th, our latitude, bv obfervation, was 9 d. 46 m. S. longitude 232 d. 7 m. AV". For the laft two days we had fteered due W. yet, by obfervation, we made lixteen miles fouthing, fix miles from noon on the 6th to noon on the 7th, and ten miles from noon H- on the 7th to noon on the 8th, by which it appeared that there was a current fetting to the fouthward. At fun-fet^ we found the variation to be 2 W. and at the fame time, faw an appearance of very high land bear- ing N. \V. In the morning of the i Oth, we faw clearly that what ^ had appeared to be land the night before, was Timor. At noon, our latitude, by obfervation, was 10 d. i m. S. ^vhich was fifteen miles to the fouthward of that given by the log; our longitude, by obfervation, was 233 d. 27 m. Vf, We fteered N. W. in order to obtain a more diflin£l view of the latid in fight, till four o'clock in the morning of the i ith, when the wind came to tlie N. W. and W. with which we ftood to the fouth- ward till nine, when we tacked and ftood N. W. having the wind now at W. S. W. At fun-rife, the land had appeared to extend from W. NL W. to N. E. and at noon, we could fee it extend to the weftward as far as W. by S. f S. but no farther to the eaftward than N. by E. We were now well afTured, that a« the firft land we had feen was Timor, the laft ifland we had pafled was Timor Laoet, or Laut. Laoet is a word in the language of Malaca, fignifyin^ Sea, and this ifland was named by the inhabitants of that country. The fouth part of it lies in latitude 8 d. Km. S> longitude 228 d. 10 m, W. but in the charts the fouth point is laid down in various latitudes, from 8 d. 30 m. to 9 d. 30 m. it ii indeed poffible that the land we faw might be fomc other ifland, but the prefumption to the contrary is very ftrong, for rf Timor Laut had lain where it is placed in Ae charts, we muft kave feen it diere. We were novr ■^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAOJt 57^ in latitude o d. 37 m. S. longitude, hy an obfervation^ejf rhe fun and moon, 233 d. 54 m. \V. we were the day before in 2 33 d. 27 m. the difference is 27 m. exadlly the fame that was given by the log : this, however, is a degree of accuracy in obfervatiou that is feldom to be cxpetSed. In the afternoon, we flood in fhore till eight in the evening, when we tacked and flood ofT, being at the diftance of about three leagues from the land, which at fun-ier extended from S. W. k W. to N. E. at thig time we founded, and had no ground with 140 fathom. At midnight, having but little wind, we tacked and flood in, and at noon the next day, our latitude, by ob- iervation, was g d. 2^ m. S. This day, we faw fmoke on fhore in feveral places, and had feen many fires du- ring the night. The land appeared to be very high, rifing in gradual flopes one above another : the hills were in general covered with thick woods, but among them wg could diftinguifh naked fpots of a confiderable extent, which had the appearance of having been cleared by art. At five o'clock in the afternoon, we were within a mile and a half of the fhore, in fixteen fathom water, ^; and abreafl of a fmall inlet into the low land, which lies in latitude 9 d. 34 m. S. and probably is the fame that Dampier entered with his boat, for it did not feem to have fufficient depth of water for a (hip. The land here anfwered well to the defcription that he has given of it : clofe to the beach it was covered with high fpiry trees, which he mentions as having the appearance of pines ; behind thef e there feemed to be I'alt water creeks, . and many mangroves, interfperfed however with cocoa- nut trees : the flat land at the beach appeared in fome places to extend inward two or three miles before the rife of the firft hill ; in this part, however, we faw n» appearance of plantations or houfes, but great fertility, and from the number of fires we judged that the placQ muft be well peopled. When we had approached within a miie and a half of the fhore, we tacked and ftood off, and the extremes. of th? coaft then extended fromN. E, by £. to W. b 4D z t- 5«o qAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. S, I S. The fputh weflerly extremity was a low point, diftant from us about three leagues. While we were ftanding in for the Ihore^we founded feveral times, hut had no ground till we came within about two miles and a half, and then we had five and twenty fathom, with a foft bottom. After we had tacked, we flood off till midnight, with the wind at S. we then tacked and ftrod two hours to the weilward, when the wind veered to $. \V. and W. S. W. and we then Hood to the fouth- Wfird again. In the morning, we foimd the variation to be I d. 20 m. W. by the amplitude, and by the azi- muth I d. 27 m. At noon, our latitude was, oy obfer- vation 9 d. 45 m. S. our longitude 2 34d. 12 m. W. we were then about feven leiigues diftant from the land, which extended from N. 3 1 E. to W. S. W. f W. With light land breezes from W. by N. for a few hours in a morning, and fea breezes from S. S. W. and S. we advanced to the weftward but flowly. At noon on the 14th, wc were between fix and fevcn leagues from the land, which extended from N. by K to S. 78 W. we ftill faw imoke in many places by day, arid nre by night, both upon the low land and the jTiountains beyond it. We continued fleering along the fhore, till' the morning of the 15th, the land ilill appearing hilly, but not fo high as it had been : the hills in general came quite down to the fea, and where they did not, we faw inflead of flats and mangrove land, immenfe groves of cocoa-nut trees, reaching about a mile up from the beach ; there the plantations and houles commenced, and appeared to be innumerable. The houfes w^ere fhaded by groves of the f?n palm, or borajfus^ apd the plantations, which were inclofed by a fence, reached almoft to the tops of the highefl hills. We faw however neither people nor cattle, though our glalfes were continually employed, at which we were not a little furprifed. We continued our courfe, with little variation, till nine o'clock in the morning of the i6th, when we faw the CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 581 thefmall ifland called Rotte ; and at noon, the ifland SemAU, lying ofi'ihe louth end of Timor, bare N. W. Dampier, who has given a iarjije dcicription of the ifland of Timor, fays, that it is Icvenry leagues long, and fixtcen broad, and that it lies nrarly N. E. and 8. W. I found the eafl: fide of it to lie neartil N. £. by E. and S. W. by \V. and the fouth end to lie in latitude lod. 2301.8. longitude 2'^6d. 5 m. \V. We ran about for^ ty-iive leagues along the call iide, and found the navi^a-* tlon altogether free from danger. The land which is bounded by the fea, except near the fouth end, is low for two or three miles within the beach, and in general interfered by fait creeks ; behind the low land are mountains, which rife one above another to a confider- able height. We (leered W. N. W. till two in the after- noon, when, being within a fmall diilance of the north end of Rotte, we hauled up N. N. W. in order to go between it and Scmau : after ftecring three leagues upon this courfe, we edged away N. W. and W. and by fix, we were clear of all the iflands. At this time, the fouth part of Semau, which lies in latitude tod, i^ m. S. bore N. E. diftant four leagues, and the ifland ot Rotte extended as far to the fouthward as S. 36 W. The north end of this ifland, and the fouth end of Timor He N. I E. and S. f W. and are about three or fotir leagues diltant from each other. At the weft end of the paflage between Rotte and Seniau, are two fmall iilands, one of which lies near the Rotte fhore, and the other off the fouth wefl point of Semau : there is a good channel between them, about fix miles broad, .through which we paflcd. The ifle of Rotte has not fo lofty and mountainous an appearance as Timor, though it is agreeably diverfi- lied by hill and valley : on the north fide, there are inany fandy beaches, near which grew fome trees of the fan palm, but the far greater part was covered with a kind of bruihy wood, that was without leaves. The appearance of Semau was nearly the lame with that of Timor, but not quite fo high. Aboul 58a CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. Ahont ten o*cIock at nipfht, we obferved a phaenomi iwn in rhe heavens, which in many particulars refembWl f^ie aurora borcniis, and in others was very different : 'i confirttd of a dull reddilh light, and reached aboij f wenty degrees above the horizon : its extent was very change, and defired leave to bring them on fhore ; which being granted, they were brought afhore accordincly, Wc then at- tempted to fettle the price of the buffaloes, (heep, hogs, and other commodities which we propofed to purchale, and for which w^e were to pay in money ; but as ibon as this was mentioned Mr Lange left us, telling us that thefe preliminaries muft be fettled with the natives : he faid, however, that he had received a letter from the Governor of Goncorciia in Timor, the purport of which he would communicate to us when he returned. As the morning was now far advanced, and we were very unwilling to return on board and eat fait provi- fions, when fo many delicacies furrounded us alhore, we petitioned his Majcily for liberty to purchafe a fmall hog and fome rice, and to employ his fubjed:8 to drels them for us. He anfwered very gracioufly, that if we could eat vitftuals dreiled by his uibjcdls, which he could fcarcely fuppofe, he would do himfelf the honour of entertaining us. Wc expreffed our gratitude, and im- mediately fent on board for liquors. x^bcut five o'clock di; iner was ready ; it was ferved in fix and thirty difhes, or rather bafkets, containing al- ternately rice and pork ; and three bowls of earthen ware, filled with the liquor in which the pork had been boiled : thefe were ranged upon the floor, and mats laid round them for us to fit upon. AVe were then con- ducted by turns to a hole in the floor, near which flood a man with water in a veifel, made of the lea^'es of the fan-palm, who affifled us in wafhing our hands. When this was done, we placed ourfelves round the viduals, and waited for the King. As he did not come, we en- quired for him, and were told that the cuftom of the i^ountry did not permit the perfon w^ho gave the enter- tainme-n to fit dowm vflth his guefts; but that, if we fufpeded the vidtuals to be poifoned, he ' juld come and tafte it, We imi;nediateiy declared that we had no ■ Miicb CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 5^9 hch fufpicion, and defired that none of the rituals of "lorpitality might be violated on our account. The >rime minifter and Mr Lange were of our party, and fve made a moil luxurious meal : we thought the pork uJ rice excellent, and the broth not to be defpiled ; l)iit the fpoons, v/hicli were made of leaves, were fo Imall that few of us had patience to ul'e them. After linner, our wime pafTed hriikly about, and we again enquired for our royal hoft, thinking that though the :uil()m of his country would not allow him to eat with IS, he might at leail ("hare in the jollity of our bottle ; )ut he again excufed himfelf, faying, that the m;'fter of la fealt lliould never be drunk, which th'3re was no cer-^ tain way to avoid but by not tafting the liquor. We did not however drink our wine where we had eaten our viduals ; but as icon as we had dined made rooin for [the Teamen and fervants» who immediately took our places : they could not difpatch all that Vv^e had left, but tlic v.'omen v^ho came to clear away the bowls and baf^ kets, obliged tliem to carry away with tl\eni vvhat they had not eaten. As wine generally warms and opens I the heart, we took an opportunity, when we* thought its influence began to be felt, to revive the fubjedl of the buffaloes and flieep, of which we had not in all this tioie heard a fyllable, though they were to have been brpdght down early in the morning. But our Saxon Diitchman, with great phlegm, began to communicate to us the contents of the letter which he pretended to have received from the Governor of Concordia. He laid, that after acquainting him that ■^ vctlel h^id fleered from thence towards the iiland where we were now afliore, k required him, if luch fh'.p fhould apply for proviiions in diitrefs, to relieve her ; but not to iuifer ner to Hay longer than was abfolucely neceirary, nor to make any prefents to the inferior pcviple, or to leave any with thoib of fuperior rank to be atterwards dillributed ^mong them ; but he w^as gracioufly pleafed to add, that we were at liberty to give beads and other trifles in ex"* change for petty civilities, and palm- wine, u S9^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. It was the general opitiion tliat this letter was a fic that the proliibiiory orders were feigned with a viewti pet money from us for breaking them ; and that by pre, eluding our liberality to the natives, this man hopi more eafily to turn it into another channel. In the evening, wc received intelligence from our tn (ling-place that no buffaloes or hogs had been brouglit| down, and only a few flieep, which had been taken J way before our people, who had fent for money, couiii procure it. Some fowls however had bt^en bought, and a large quantity of a kind of fyrup madeof the juice o( the palm-tree, which, though infinitely fuperior to| molafTes or treacle, fold at a very low price. We com. plained of our difappointment to Mr Lange, whoiiatj now another fubterf age ; he faid, that if wo had gone i]own to the beach curfelves, v*'e u^ight h. "e "chafed what we pleafed ; but that the natives \v .c .uraidto take money of our people, left it fhould be counterfeit. We could not bar feel ibme indignation againft a man who had concealed this, being true; or alledged it, being falfe. I darted up, however, and went immediately to the beach, but rv) catde or fheep were to be feen, nor were any at hand to be produced. While 1 was gone, Lange, who knew well enough that I Iliould fucceed no better than my people, told Mr Banks that the na- tives were dirj)leafed at our not having offered them gold for their flock ; and that if gold was not offered nothing woukl be bought. Mr Banks did not thir> worth his while to reply, but foon after rofe up, ant' v all returned on board, very much diffatisiied with the iffue of our negociations. During the courfe of the clay the King had promifed that fome cattle and iheep fhould be brought down in the morning, and had given a reaf'on for our difappointment fomewhat more plaufi* l)le; he faid the buffaloes we far up the country, and that there had not been time to bnng them dov ^ to the beach. The next morning, the 2oth, we went afliore agi' : PrSolandcr went up to the tov/n to fpcak to Lange, and I rC' YAGE. CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGIi. 591 emained upon the beach, to fee what could be done the purchaft of provifions. I found here an old In- an who, as he .-ippcared to have feme authority, we id among ourfelves called the Prime Mini.'lcr; 10 gage this man in our iiiterell 1 prefented him with a ying-glafs, but I faw nothing at market except one all buffalo. I enquired the price of it, and was told e guineas : this was twice as much as it was worth ; wever, 1 offered three, which 1 could perceive tlie man ho treated with me thought a good pi ice j but lie faid I mufl acquaint the King with what 1 had offered he- re he could take ir. A menTengcr was immediately dii^ latched to his Majefly, who ibon returned, and faid, ^at the buffalo would not be fold for any tiling lefs than |ve guineas. This price 1 abfolutely refufed to give ; d another meffenger was fent away with an account my refufal : this meffenger was longer abfent thaa e other, and while I was waiting for his return I faw, my great aflonilliment, Dr Solander coming from. e town, followed by above a hundred men, fomc med with mufquets and fome with lances. When I quired the meaning of this hoflile appearance, the odor told me, that Mr I^ange had interpreted to him meflfage from the King, purporting that the people ould not trade with us, becaufe we had refufed to ^ive lem more than half the value of what they had to fell ; 'd that we fhould not be permitted to trade upon any lid not thirJ' ^F' "^s longer than this day. Belides the officers who •ofeup am'v '#j:^iTianded the party, there came with it a man w^ho isiied with the 'f^ '^ ^-^^ri at Timor, of Portuguele parents, and who, as 3urfe of the day ■jj'^ '^'^^'"^v^^^^s ^^^<^o^^^c^^ ^'^s a kind of colleague to ^iie Dutch fador ; by this man what they pretended to etheF'ng's order was delivered to me, of the fame urpgrt with that which Dr Solander had received from sr was a fic with a view (I md that by pre, :his man fiopi lel. :e from our tra.| d been brougl|| d been taken 2. r money, couil 'en bought, anil iof the juice o(| ?ly fuperior tj ice. We com. ange, whou-J if wc had gone h. -e : "chafed \v;.'c .a i aid to be counterfeit. 1 again fl a man Hedged it, being immediately to to be feen, nor] ule 1 was gone, fliould fucceed iks that the na- g offered them ras not offered ttle and fheep , and had given at more pla'afw e country, and them dov i to -iinge. itaflioreaga':.: ktoLange,and Ire* We were all clearly of opinion that this was a mere tifice of -the fa«^ors to extort money from us, for which ft had been prepared by the account of a letter from Concor-, s^^ CAPTAIN COOK*s FIRST VOYAGE. Concordia ; anil while wc were hefitatin^ what ftcp toi take, the Portugiiere, that he might the looner accom.! plifh his purpofe, began to drive away the people who! had brought down poultry' and fyrup, and others that| were now coming in with buffaloes and fheep. At I time, I glanced m.y eye upon the old man whom I had] complimented in the morning with the fpying glal;!, and I thought, by his looks, that he did not heardlyl approve of what was doing; I therefore took him by the hand, and prefented him with an old broad fwordl This inftantly turned the fcale in our favour ; he receiv- ed the fword with a tranfport of joy, and flourilhing it I ov< rhc bufy Portuguefe, who crouched like a fox to a lion, tade him, and the officer who commanded the party, i down upon the ground behind him: the people, who, whatever were the crafty pretences ofthefe miquitous fadors for a Dutch company, were eager to fupply us with whatever we wanted, and feemed alio] to be more defirous of goods than money, inftandy im- proved the advantage that had been procured them, and! the market was Itocked almofl \a an inflant. To efta-| bli(h a trade for buffaloes, however, which I moft want- ed, I found it necelfary to give ten guineas for two,one| of which weighed no more than a hundred and fixty pounds ; but I bought feven more much cheaper, anlll might afterwards have purchafed as many as 1 pleafafl almoft upon my own terms, for they were now drivenl down to the water-fide in herds. In the firfl two that I bought i'o dear, Lange had certainly a Ihare, and it was in hopes to obtain part of the price of others, th»( he had pretended we muft pay for them in gold. The natives however fold what they afterwards brought! down much to their fatisfadion, without paying partotf the price to him as a reward for exading money from us. Mofl of the buffaloes that we bought, after our friend, the Prime Minil^er, had procured us a fair mar- ket, were ibid for a mufquet apiece, and at this price wel might have bought as many as would have loaded our I ^^' V • Tl J CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 593 The refrefhments which we procured here, confifted of nine buffaloes, fix (lieep, three hogs, thirty dozen of fowls, a few limes, and fome cocoa-nuts ; many dozen of eggs, half of which however proved to be rotten ; a little £ riic, and feveral hundred gallons of palm- lyrup. vi A particular Defcrifihn of the JJland of Savu^ its Produce and inhabitants^ with a Specimen of their Language, THIS ifland is called by the natives Sa vu ; the mid- ldle of it lies in about the latitude lo d. 3 c m. S. lon- [gitiide ixj d. 30 m. W. and has in general heen fo little known that I never faw a map or chart in which it \% clearly or accurately laid down. 1 have feen a very old one, in which it is called Sou, and confounded with Sandel Bofch. Rumpius mentions an ifland by the name of Saow; and ne alfo favs that it is the fame which the Dutch call Sandei Bofch : but neither is this |illand, nor Timor, nor Rotte, nor indeed any one of Ithe iflands that we have feen in thefe feas, placed with- jin a reafonable dilUnce of its true iituation. It is about leight leagues long from eaft to weft ; but what is its Ibreadth, I do not know, as I faw only the north fide, jThe harbour in which we lay is called Seba, from the Wiftrid in which lies : it is on the north weft fide of the pfland, and well fheltered froni the fouth-weft trade pind, but it lies open to the northrweft. We were iJd, that there were two other bays where fhips might i^chor ; that the beft, called Timo, was on the fouth- 'eft fide of the fouth-eaft point : of tht third we learnt Vol.1.— N" 15. 4 F neither 5^4 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGfi. neither the! ilatne nor fituation. The fea coaft, hi ge* neral, is low ; hut in the middle of the ifland there arjg hills of a confiderahle height. We were upon the coaft at the latter end of the dry feafon, when there had been no i*ain for feveri months; and we were told that when the dry feafon continues fo long, there is no run- ning ftream of freih water upon the whole ifland, but only fftiall fprings, which are at a confiderable diftance from the i'ca-hde: vet nothing can be imagined fo beautiful as the proipetl of the coiintry from the fhip. The level ground next to the fea-fide was covered with cocoa-nut trees, and a kind of palm called Arecas ; and beyond them the hills, which rofe in a gentle and re- gular afcent, were richly clothed, quite to the fummir, with plantations of the fan-palm, forming an almoft impenetrable grove. How much even this profped muft be improved, when every foot of ground between the trees is covered with verdure, by maize, and millet and indico, can fcarcely be conceived but by a power- ful imagination, not unacquainted with the ftatelinefj and beauty of the trees that adorn this part of the earth. The dry leafon commences in March or April, and ends in October or November. The principal trees of this ifland, are the fan-palm, the cocoa-nut, tamarind, limes, oranges, and mangoes; the other vegetable productions are maize, Guinea corn, rice, millet, callevances, and water-melons. We faw alfo one fugar-cane, and a few kinds of European gar- den (luff; particularly cellery, marjoram, fennel, and garlic. For the fupply of luxury, it has betele, areca, tobacco, cotton, indico, and a fmall quantity of cinna- mon, which feems to be planted here only for curiofity; and, indeed, we doubted whether it was the genuine 1 plant, knowing that the Dutch are very careful not to j truft the fpices out of their proper iflands. There are,| however, leveral kinds of fruit, befides thofe which have been already mentioned ; particularly the fweet fopi which is well known to the Weft Indians, and a fmall oval fruit, called the BlimbL both of which grow upon trees. CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. S9S tree«. The hlimln is about three or four inches long, and in the middle about as thick as a man's finger, taper- intx towards each end : it is covered with a very thin fkin of a light green colour, and in the infidc are a few feeds difpofed in the form of a ilar ; its flavour is a light, clean, pleafant acid, but it cannot be eaten raw • it is laid to be excellent as a picldc ; and dewed, it made a moft agreeable four fauce to our boiled difhes. The tame animals are bufraloes, (heep, goats, hogs, fowls, pigeons, horfes, affes, dogs and cats ; and of all thefe there is great plenty% The buffaloes differ very confiderably from the horned cattle of liuropcin feveral particulars; their ears are much larger, their {kins are almofl without hair, their horns are curved towards each other, but together bend directly backwards, and they have no dewlaps. We faw feveral that were as big an a well grown European ox, and there muft be fome much larger; for Mr Banks faw a pair of horns which meafured from tip to tip three feet nine inches and an half, acrofs their wideft diameter four feet one inch and .an half, and in the whole Iweep of their femicircle ia front feven feet fix inches and a half. It muft however be obferved, that a buffalo here of any jjiven fize, does not wtlgh about half as much as an ox of the fame iize in England : thofe that we gueffed to weigh four hun- dred weight did not weigh more than two hundred and fifty ; the reafon is, that (b late in the dry feafon the bones are very thinly covered with flefh : there is not an ounce of fat in a whole carcafs, and the ilanks are literally nothing but Ikin and bone ; the flefh however is well tafted and juicy, and I fuppofe better than the fle(h of an Englifli ox would be if he was to ftarve in this fun-burnt country. The horfes are from eleven to twelve hands high, but though they are fmall, thev are Ipirited and nimble, cfpecially in pacing, which is their common ftep : thq inhabitants generally ride them without a faddle, and with no better bridle than a halter. The fheep are of the kiqd which in England are called Bengal fheep, and 4 F 3; differ $9^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. differ from ours in many particiilard. They arc covered with hair indead of wool, their cars are very large, and hang down under their horns, and their nofes arc arch, cd ; they are thought to have a general refemblance to a g;oat, and for that reafon are frequently called cabritoj: their flefh we thought the worft mutton we had ever eaten, being as lean as that of the buffalo's, and without flavour. The hogs, however, were fome of the fatteft we had ever feen, though as we were told, their princi- pal food is the outlide hulks of rice, and the palm fyrup aiflblved in water. The fowls are chiefly of the game breed, and large, but the eggs are remarkably fmall. Of the firti which the fca produces here, we know but liule : turtles were fometimes found upon the coaft, and are by thefe people, as well as all others, coniidered as a dainty. The people are rather under, than over the middling fize; the women efpecially are remarkably (liort ana fquat built : their complexion is a dark bfown, and their hair unirerfally black and lank. We faw no differance in the colour of rich and poor, though in the South Sea iflands thofe that were expofed to the weather were al* moft as brown as the New Hollanders, and the better fort nearly as fair as the natives of Europe. The men are iti general well-made, vigorous^and a£tive,and have a greater variety in the make and difpofition of theit featui'es than ufual ; the countenances of the women, on the contrary, are all alike. The men faflen their hair tip to the top of their heads with a comb, the women tie it behind in a club, which h very far from becoming. Both fexes eradicate the hair from under the arm, and the men do the fame by tbei|: beards, for which purpofe, the better fort always carry a pair of filver pincers hanging by a ftring round their riecks ; fome however fuffer a very little hair to remaiq upbn their upper lips, but this is always kept fliort. The drefs of both iexesconfifts of cotton cloth, which hemg dyed blue in the yarn, and not uniformly of the fymc ihade, is in doUds or wavca of that colour, aqd even ia CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. S91 ther were al* In our eye had not an inelecant appearance. This cloth [hey manufadlure themielvcs, and two pieces, eacli ^bnut two yards long, and a yard and a hall wide, make idrefs : one of them is worn round the middle, and the )ther covers the other part of the body : the lower edge of the piece that goes round the middle, the men draw bretty tight juft below the fork, the upper edge of it is feft loofe, fo as to form a kind of hollow belt, which trves them as a pocket to carry their knives, and other little implements which it is convenient to have about [hem. The other piece of cloth is paffed through thii girdle behind, and one end of it being brought over the eft ihoulder, and the other over the right, they fall lown over the bread, and are tucked into the girdle teforcj fo that by opening or clofmg the plaits, they [an cover more or hk of their bodies as they pleafe ; le arms, legs, and feet are always naked. The differ- Ince between the drefs of the two fexes confifts princi- pally in the manner of wearing the waift-piece, for the ?omen, inftead of drawing the lower edge tight, an4 caving the upper edge loofe for a pocket, draw the lipper edge tight, and let the lower edge fall as low as [le knees, fo as to form a petticoat ; the body-piece, iil- tcad of being palTed through the girdle, is fallen ed linder the arms, and crofs the breaft, with the utmoft [ecency. I hav«? already obferved, that the m-* faftea le hair upon the top of the head, and the women tie^ ; in a club behind, but there is another difference in the |icad-drcfs, by which the fexes are diflinguifhed ; the fomen wear nothing as a fuccedaneum for a cap, but lie men conftantly wrap fomething routed their heads the manner of a fillet ; it is fmall, but generally of « fineft materials that can be procured : we faw fom^j »ho applied fdk handkerchiefs to this purpofe, and pers tnat wore fine cotton, or muflin, in the manney fa fmall turban, Thefe people bore their teftimony that the love of Jftsry is a univerfal paifion, for their ornaments were fCTf numerous, Som^ «^^€ better fort wore chains of ^« CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. gold round their necks, but they were made of plaited wire, and confcquemiy were light and of little value; others had rings, which were fo much worn that they iec:ri;;d to have defcendcd tlirough many generations ; and one peribn had a filver headed cane, marked with a kind of cypher, confifling of the Roman letters V, 0, C, and therefore probably a prefent from the Dutch Eaft India Company, whofe mark it is : they have alfo or- naments made of beads, which fome wear round their necks as a folitaire, and others, as bracelets, upon their wrills : thefe are common to both fcxcs, hut the women have befides, ftrings or girdles of beads, which they wear round their waifts, and which ferve to keep up their petticoat. Both fexes had their ears bored, nor was t^^-.j a fingle exception that fell under our notice, TCt we never law an ornament in any of them ; vvc never indeed faw either man or woman in any thing but w^hat appeared to be their ordinary drefs, except the King and his minifter, who in general wore a kind of night-gown cf coarfe chintz, and one of whom once received us in a black robe, which appeared to be made ©f what 18 called prince's ftufF. We faw fomc boys, about twelve or fourteen years old, who had fpiral circles of thick brafs wire pafied three or four times round their arms, above the elbow, and fome men wore rings of ivory, two inches in breadth, and above an inch in thicknefs, upon the fame part of the arm : thefe, we were told, were the fon*^ of the Rajas, or Chiefs,! who wore thefe cumbrous ornaments as badges of| their high birth. Almcil all the ipen had their names traced upon theirl arms, in indelible charaders of a black colour, and the| women had a fquare ornament )f fiouriflied lines, im- prefi'ed in the fame manner, jui>^ under the bend of the elboxv. We were ftruck with the fimilitude between thefe marks, and thofe made by tattowing in the Soutl^ 8ea iflands, and upon enquiring into its origin, wf leamt that it had been pradifed by the natives long be- lore any Europeans ijame among thepi; and that inthd ^cigM CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 59# neiglibouring iflands the inhabitants were marked tvith circles upon their necks and breails. The univerlatity cf this pradlice,which prevails among favages in all parts of the world, from the remoteft limits of North America, to the iflands in the South Seas, and which piohably differs but little from the method of ftaining the body that was in ufe among the ancient inhabitants of Bri- tain, is a curious fubjed. of fpeculation.* The hoiifes of Savu are all built upon the fame plan, and differ only in fize, being large in proportion to rhc rank and riches of the proprietor. Some are four hun- dred feet long, and fome are not more than twenty : they are all railed upon polls, or piles, about four feet liigh, one end of which is driven into the ground, and upon the other end is laid a fubftantial floor of wood^ ib that there is a vacant fpace of four feet between the floor of the houfe and the ground. Upon this iloor are placed other pofts or pillars, that fupport a roof of Co- ping fides, which meet in a ridge at the top» like thoie of our barns : the eaves of this roof, which is thatched with palm leaves, reach within two feet of the Hoor, and over-hang it as much: the fpace within is general- ly divided lengthwife into three equal parts ; the mid- dle part, or centre, is inclofed by a partition of four fides, reaching about fix feet above the floor, and one or two fmall rooms are alfo fometimes taken off from tl'.e fider*, the reft of the fpace under the roof is open, fo as freely to admit the air and. the light : the particular ufes of thefe different apartments, our Ihort flay would not per- mit * In the account which Mr BoflTii haa given of fome Indians who ip?ia- bitthe banks of the Akanza, a river of North America, which rifcs in Now Mexico, and falls into the MiffiflTippi, he relates the following iiiciUtnt : " The Akanzas, fays he, have adopted me, and as a m.xrk of my priviUrjre, have imprinted a figure of a roe-buck uprni my thigh, which was dont- in tills manner: an Indian having burnt fume draw, diluted the aihcs with water, and with this mixture, drew the figure upon mylkin ; he ihcn re- traced it by pricking the lines with needles, fo as at every puntlurejiifl to draw the blood, and the blood mixing v/itU the afou of the ftraw, foims a , Igure which can never be cITaced." A»* CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. mit U3 to learn, except that the clofe room in the cen.| tre was appropriated to the women. The food of theic people confifts of every tame anU mal in the country, of which the hog holds the firlt place in their eftimation, and the horfe the fecond ; nex; to the horfe is the buffalo, next to the buffalo their poultry, and they prefer do^s and cats to iheep and goats. They are not fond ot lifh, and, I believe, itij never eaten hut by the poor people, nor by them, ex- cept when their duty or bulineik requires them to be up. 1 on the beach, and then every man is furnilhed with a light carting net, which is girt round him, and makes part of liis drei's ; and with this he takes any fmall hlh which' happen to come in his way. The eiculent vegetables and fruits have been men- tioned already, but the fan-palm rcq^uires more particu- lar notice, for at certain times it is a luccedaneum for all other food both to man and beaft. A kind of wine, called toddy, is procured from this tree, by nitting the buds which are to produce flowers, foon af'^ heir ap- pearance, and tying under them fmall balk<.. , .nadcof the leaves, which are fo clofe as to hold liquids with- out leaking. The Juice which trickles into thefe veffels, is coUed^ed by perfons who climb the trees for that pur- pofe, morning and evening, and is the common drink of every individual upon the ifland ; yet a much great- er quantity is drawn ofT than is eonfumed in this ufe, and of the furplus they make both a fyrup and coarfe fugar. The liquor is called dua^ or duac^ and both the fyrup and fugar, ^«//^. The lyrup is prepared by boil- ing the liquor down in pots of earthen ware, till it is fumciently infpifi'ated ; it is not unlike treacle in appear- ance, but is fomewhat thicker, and has a much more agreeable tafte : the fugar is of a reddilh brown, perhaps the fane with the Jugata fugar upon the continent of India, and it was more agreeable to our palates than any cane fugar, unrefined, that we had ever tafted. We \vere at I'uft afraid that the fyrup, of which fgme of our ■S', ' people CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 60 1 >een men. people eat very great quantities, would have brought on fluxes, but its aperient quality was fo very flighty that what effed it produced was rather fahitary thaa hurtful. I have already obfcrvcd, that it is given with the luifks of rice to the hogs, and that they grow enor- inoufly ^it without taking any other food : we were told alio, that this fyrup is ul'cd to fatten their dogs and their fowls, and that the inhabitants themfclves havq fublifted upon this alone for feveral monchs, whca other crofs have failed, and animal food has been fcarce. The leaves of this tree are alfo put to various ufes, they thatch houfes, and make bafkcts, cups, um- brellas, and tobacco-pipes. The fruit is lead elieemed, and as the bloflbms are wounded for the tuac or toddy, there is not much of it : it is about as big as a large tur- nip, and covered, like the cocoa-nut, with a- fibrous coat, under which are three kernels, that muft be eaten before they are ripe, for afterwards they become fo hard that they cannot be chewed ; in their eatable ftate they tafte not unlike a green cocoa-nut, and, like them, pro- bably they yield a nutriment that is watery and unfub- ftantial. The common method of drefling food here is by boiling, and as fire wood is very fcarce, and the inhabi- tants have no other fuel, they make ufeof a contrivance to fave it, that is not wholly unknown in Europe, but is feldom pradlifed except in camps. They dig a hol- low under ground, in a horizontal dire£lion, like a rab- bit burrow, about two yards lon^, and opening into a hole at each end, one of which is large and the other finall : by the large hole the fire is put in, and the fmall one ferves for a draught. The earth over this burrow is perforated by circular holes, which communicate with th« cavity below ; and in thefe holes are fet earthen pots, generally about three to each fire, which are large in the middle, and taper towards the bottom, fo that the fire ads upon a large part of their furface. Each of thefe pots generally contains about eight or ten gallons, and it is fuiprifing to fee with how fmall a quantity of Vol. l.wN» 16. ^ 4 G lire 6d2 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. fire they may be kept b illng ; a palm leaf, or a dry . flalk thruft in now and then is fufiicient : in this mau- ner they boil all t?Ji€ir vi£luals, and make all their fyrt^ and iugar. It appears by Frazier's account of his voy- H age to the South 8ea, that the Peruvian Indians haveu | contrivance of the fame kind, and perhaps it might be adopted widi advantage by the poor people even of this country, wlieni fuel is very dear.^ Both fexes are en- ^aved by the hateful and pernicious habit of chewing beetle and areca, which they contract even while thev are children, and pradife incefTantly from morning iijl nigh^ With thefe they always mix a kind of white lime made of coral ftone and fhells, and frcquendy a fmal! quantity of tobacco, lb that their mouths are difguflful in the hlgheft degree both to the fmell and the fight : the tobacco taints their breath, and the beetle and lime make the teeth not only as black as charcoal, but as rot- ten too. i have ken men between twenty and thirty, whofe teeth have been conliimed almoft down to the pums, though no two of them were exadlly of the fame length or thicknefs, but irregularly corroded like iron by mft. This lofs t)f teeth is, I think, by all who have written upon ihe fubjedt, imputed to the tough and (Iringy coat of the arcca nut ; but I impute it wholly to the lime : they are not loofened, or broken, or forced out, as might be expet^ed if they were injured by the continual chewing of hard and rough fubftanceSj but tliey are gradually wafted like metals that are ex- pofed to the a% made the beft of their way to Concordia ; tliey were four days upon the road, where they were obKged to leave part of their company through fatigue, and the rell, to the number of about eighty, arrived at the town. They were fup- plled widi every necefiary and feat back to the wreck, with proper ai&ftance, for recovering what could be fiftied up : they fortunately got up all thdr bullion, which was in chefts, and.fevcral of their guns, which were very large. They then retun^d to the town, but their companions who had been left upon the road were miiTing, having, as it was fujjpofed, been kept among the Indians, either by p^JlCuaiion or force ; for they are very defrroun of haviig EtWoj^eans among them, to in- ftrud them in the art of war. ^Afcer a Hay of . more than two moutlis at Concordia, their number was idimimfti- ed nearly one half by licknefs, in conl'equence of the fatigue and hardihip which they had fufFcred by tlie fliipwreck, and the furvivors w«re fent in a fniall veflel to Europe. Ji Rotte is in much the fame frt^ion as Savu ; a Dutch factor rclides upon it to mana^ the Jiatives, and look* after its produce, which conhjts, among other articles, of lugar. Formerly it was made only by bruif- iug the canes, and boiling the juice to a fyrup, 'm the Tame manner as toddy ; but great improvements have lately been made in preparing this valuable^ commodity* The three little iflands called the Solars are alfo under the influence of the Dutch fetdement at Concordia i they are flat and low, but abound with provifj^s of every kind, and the middlemoft is faid to have a J^d harbour for Shipping. Ende, another little ifland to 1^ weftward of the Solars, is ftill in the hands of the Por^ (Ugu^fe, who Ij^ave a good town and harbour on the 4 H a north '^:^> 6l2 CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. north eaft corner of it, but that, being much Inferior to Larntuca, has for fomc time been altogether negledlcd. The inhabitants of each of thefe little iOands fpeak a language peculiar to themfelves, and it is an objedl of Dutch policy to prevent, as much as pofiible, their learning the language of each other. If they fpcke a common language, they would learn, by a mutual in^ tercourfe with each other, to plant fuch things as would be of more value to themfelves than their prefent pro- duce, though of lefs advantage to the Dutch j but their languages Tbeing different, they can communicate no fuch knowledge to each other, and the Dutch fecure to themfelves the benefit of fupplying their feveral necef- fitie5 upon their own terms, which it is reafonable to fuppofe are not very moderate. It is probably with a view to this advantage that the Dutch never teach their own language to the natives of thefe iflands, and have been at the expencc of tranflating the Teftament and catechifms into the different languages of each ; for in proportion as Dutch had become the language of their religion, it would have become the common language of them all. To this account of Savu, I fliall only add a fmall fpe- cimcn of its language, by which it will appear to have fome affinity with that of the South Sea iflands, many of the words being exactly the fame, and the nuriibers jpanifeflly derived from the fainc fource* Enqlish, Savu^ English. A fnan Momonne The ears A luoman Mobunnee 7 he iongm The head • Catoo The neck The hair Row catoo The breap The eyes Matta The nipplet . The e\e-la/hes Rowna matta The belly Thenofe . Swanga The navel Thefhffkf Qavaranga T^e thighs Savit. Wodccloo Vaio Lacoco Soofco Caboo foofoo Dulico Aflbo Tooga CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. i'i English, i The hues Thelet^s fhefiet The t;et The armr Tke han4 A huffah Ahorfe A hog Afieep A gout A dog A cat A fowl The tail The beak Afijh A lurlU A cocoa-nut Fan-palm Artca Beetle Lime • Afijh-hooh |5avu. Rootoo Baibo Duncea!:i Kiilbvei yiUif Camncoo Wulaba Cabaou Pjara Vavee Doomba Kefavoo Guaca Maio Mannu Carow PangoMtoo lea Unjoo Nieu Boaccrcc Calclia Canana Aou MaanadoQ Tattow the marks 7 -p . on thejkln 5 English. The Sun The moon Thefea Water Fire To die Topep To rift One Tw$ Three Four Five Six Seven Fight Nine Ten FUven 20 100 1000 lOyOOO 100,000 1,000,000 Savu. Loclo Wurroo Aidafiee A ilea Aec Maate Tabudgc Tateeto« UiTc Lhua TuUu Uppali Lumme XJnna Pedu Arm - 5aou Siiigooroo Singurung uflTe Ijhuango^roo Sing alTu Setuppah Selacuffa Serata Sereboo . In the account of the ifland of Savu it muft be re» membered, that except the fa£ts in which we were par- ties, and the account of the obiedls which we had an opportunity to examine, the whole is founded merely upon the report of Mr Lange, upon whofe authority alpn^ therefore it mi|ft reft, tbi «i4 CAPTAIN COOK^ FIRST VOYAGE. The Run from the IJland of Savu to Batavla^ and an JccQjtmt of the Tranfaiiions there whiJe the Ship wot refUtift^, "«i IN the morning of Friday the 21ft of September, 1 770, we got under fail, tna ftood away to the wetl- warcl, along the north fide of the ifland of Savu, and of the fniallertUat lies to the weftward of it, which at nooa boreS. S. E. diftant two leagues. At four o'clock in the afternoon, we difcovcred a fmall low ifland, bearing S, S»W. diftant three leagues, which has no place in any chart now extant, at leaft in none I have oeen able to procure: it lies in latitude jod. 47 nu S. longitude 238 d. 28 m. W. At noon on the 2 ad, we were in latitude 1 1 d. 10 m. S. longitude 2ao d. ;j8 m. W. In the evening of t(>e 23d, we found the variation of the needle to be 1 <1. 44 m. W. as foon as we got clear of the iflands we had conftandy a fwell from the fouth ward, which 1 imagined was TTot caufed by a wind blowing from that E. N. K. having before fleered N. by E. In the night, we had thunder and lightning ; and about twelve o'clock, by the light of the Hafn^s, wc faw the land bear- ing eaft. I then tacked and flood to the S. W. till four o'clock in the morning of the i ft of 0<£lober ; and at fix, Java Head, or the weft end of Java, bore S. E, by E. (liftant five leagues : foon after wc faw Prince's Iflano, bearing E. * S. and at ten, the iJland of Cracatoa, bear- ing N. E. Cracatoa is a remarkably high peaked ifland, ami at noon it bore N. 40 E. diftant fevcn leagues. I muft now obferve that, during our run from Savu, I always allowed twenty minutes a-day for the wel^erly current, which I concluded muft run ftrong at this time, efpccially off the coaft of Java, and I found that this allowance was juft equivalent to the effect of the cur- rent upon the fhifx. At four o'clock in the morning of the 2d, we fetched clofe in with the coaft of Java, in fifteen fathom ; we then flood along the coail, and early in the forenooOj i fent the l>oat alhore to try if fhe could procure fbme fiuit for Tupia, who was very ill;, and fome grafs for the buffaloes that were flili alive. In an hour or two ihe returned with four cocoa-nuti, and a finall bunch of plantains, which had been pur jhafecl for a {hilling, ami fome heibage for the cattle, which the Indians not only gave us, but afTifted our p^opli to cut. The coun- try looked like one coniinued wood, and had a very pleafant appearance. About eleven o'clock, we faw two Dutch (hips lying offAoger point, and i fent Mi* Hicks on board of one of I them to enquire news of ci?r coui '^ry, from which we I wd been ablent fo long, la the mean time it fell calm, and 6i6 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST V0YAG£. and about noon I anchored in eighteen fathom wlihai muddy bottom. When Mr Hicks re^ 'irned, he report- cd that the ihips were Dutch Eaft Indiamen from Ba- tavia, one of wliich was bound to Ceylon, and the other to the coaft of Malabar ; and that there was alio a fly- boat or packet, which was faid to be ftationed hereto carry letters from the Dutch fhips that came hitherto Batavia, but which I rather think .vas appointed to ex* amine all Ihips that pafs the ftreight: from thefe Ihips we heard, with great pieafure, that the Swallow liail been at Batavia about two years before. At leven o'clock a breeze fprung up at S. S. W. widi I •which having weighed, we ftood to the N. E. between Tliwart-the-way-Illand and the Cap, founding from eighteen to twenty-eight fathom : we had but little wmd all night, and having a ftrong current againft us, we got no further by eight in the morning than Ban. tarn Point. At this time the wind came to the N. L and obliged us to anchor in two and twenty fathoni, | at about the diftance of two miles from the (bore ; thr point bore N. E. by E. diftant one league, and here we found a llrong current fetting to the N. W. In the morning we had feen the Dutch packet Handing after us, but when the wind fliifted to the N. E. fhe bore away. At fix o'clock in the evening, the wind having ol> ligcd us. to continue at anchor, one of the country boats came along fide of us, on board of which was liie Mil- ter of the packet. He feemed to have two motives fo his vifit, one to take an account of the (hip, and (lie other to fell us refrelhments ; for in the boat were turt'i, fowls, ducks, parrots, parociiiets, rice-birds, raonkits, and other articles, which they held at a very high piice, and brought to a bad market, for our Savu ftock was not yet expended : however, I gave a Spanifh dollar for a fmall turtle, which weighed about iix and thirty pounds ; I gave aifo a dollar for ten large fowls, and afterwardo bought fifteen more a^ the fame price; lor a dollar we might aUb lia\c bought two moakies, ora ^ whole CAPTAINCOOK's FIRST VOYAGE. 617 whole cage of rice-birds. The Mafter of the floop brought with him two books, in one of which he dc- fircJ that any of the officers would write clown the name of the fhip and its commander, with that of the place from which fhe failed, and of the port to which Ihe was bound, with fiich other particulars relating to themfelvcs, as they might think proper, for the infor- mation of any of our friends that (hould come after us : and in the other he entered the names cf the Ihip and tlie Commander, himfelf, in order to tranfmit them, to the Governor and Council of the Indies. We perceived that in the firfl: book many (hips, particularly Poitu- giiete, had made entries of the fame kind with that for whicli it was prefented to us. Mr Hicks, however, having written the name of the fhip, only added " from Europe." He took notice of this, but faid, that he was fatisfied with any thing we thought iit to write, it being intended merely for the information of thofe who fliould enquire after us from motives of friendfhip. Miving made feveral attempts to fail with a wind that would not ftem the current, and as often come to an anchor, a proa came alon glide of us in the morning of the ^th, in which v/as a Dutch officer, who fent me down a primed paper in Englifli, duplicates of which he had in other languages, particularly in French r^nd Dutch, all regularly figned, in the name of the Go- vernor and council of the Indies, by their fccretary : it contained nine queftions, very ill exprefied, in the fol-» lowing terms. " I. To what nation tlie fliip belongs, and Its name ? " 2. If it comes from Europe, or any other place ? " 3. From what place it laftly departed from ? " 4. Whereunto defigned to go ? " 5. What and how many fliips of the Dutch Company hy il.i- parturc from the laft (liore there layed, and their names ? " 6. If one or more of thefe fliips In company with thig, Is de- parted for this or any other place ? Vul. I.~N" 16. 4 I " 7. If 4ift CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. ** 7. If during the voyage any parf icularltles Is happened or feen ? ** 8. If not any flilps in fea, or the Streights of Sunda, hav« feen or hailed in, and which ? " 9. If any other n^Ws worth of attention, at the place from whence the Ihip laflly departed, or during the voyage is hap. pened. " Batavia, In the Caflle. " By order of the Governor General, and (lit ** Counfellors of India, (( J. Brander Bungl, Sec.'" Of thefe qneflions t anfwered only the firft and the fourth ; which when the officer law, he faid anfwersto the reft were of no confequence : yet he immediately added, that he muft fend that verv paper away to Bata- via, and that it would be there the next day at noon. 1 have particularly related this incident, becaufe I have been credibly informed that it is but of late years that the Dutch have taken upon them to examine ihips that pafs through the Streight. At ten o'clock the iame morning, we weighed, iKith a light br'^eze at S. W. but did litde more than ftem the current, and about two o'clock anchored again under Bantam Point, where we lay till nine : ? light breeze then fpringing up at S. E* we weighed ana ftood to the eaftward till ten o'clock the next morning, when the current obliged us again to anchor in twenty-two fa- thom, Pulababi bearing E. by S. i S. diftant between three and four miles. Having alternately weighed and anchored fevera! times, till four in the afternoon of the 7th, we then ftood to the eaftward, with a very faint breeze at N. E. and pafled Wapping Ifland, and the firft ifland to the eaft- ward of it ; when the wind dying away, we were car- ried by the current between the nrft and fecond of the iflands that lie to the eaftward of Wapping Ifland, where CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. (?i9 we were obligeil to anchor in thirty fathom, being very near a ledge of rocks that run out from one of the iHancls. At two the next morning we weighed with the land wind at fouth, and ftood out clear of the ihoal ; but before noon were obliged to come to again in twenty-eight fathom, near a fmall ifland among thofc that are called the Tboufand Iflands, which we did not find laid down in any chart. Pulo Pare at this time bore E. N. E. diftance between fix and feven miles. Mr Banks and Dr Soiander went afliore upon the ifland, which they found not to be more than hve hun- dred yards long, and one hundred broad ; y^ there was a houle upon it, and a fmall plantation, where, among other things, was the Palma Chrifti^ from which the carter oil is made in the Weft Indies : they made a fmall addition to their coUedion of plants, and fhot a bat, whofe wings when extended meafured three feet from point to point : they fhot alfo four plovers, which exactly refembled the golden plover of England. Soon after they returned, a fmall Indian boat came alongfide with two Malays on board, who brought three turtles, fome dried fifli, and a few pumpkins ; we bought the turtle, which altogether weighed a hundred and forty- fix pounds, for a dollar, and, confidering that we had lately paid the Dutchman a dollar for one that weighed only fix and thirty pounds, we thought we had a good bargain. The feller appeared equally fatisfied, and we then treated vvith him tor his pumpkins, for which he was very unwilling to take any rnoney but a dollar ; wc faid that a whole dollar was greatly too much ; to which he readily affented, but defired that we yirould cyt one and give him a part : at laft, however, a fine (hining- Portuguefe petacka tempted him, and for that he fold us his whole flock of pumpkins, being in number twentv-fix. At patting, he made iigns that we fhould iiot tell at Batavia that any boat had oeen aboard us. We were not able to vveather Pulo Pare this day, but getting the land wind at fouth about ten o'clock at night, wc weighed sind flood to the E. S. E. all night. At tea 4I 2 IR 620 CAPTAIN COOK'S TIRST VOYAGE. in the morning of the Qth, wc anchored again, to w.ut for the fca breeze ; and at noon it iprung up at N. N. E. with which Vv-o ftood in for Batavia road, where, at four o'clock in the afternoon, we came to an anchor. We found here thf.'Harcourt Indiaman from England, two Englirti private tracers of ihat country, thirteen iail of large Dutch fliips, and a conlitlerable number of fmall vefTels. A boa*: carne immediately on l)oard, fiom a fliip which had abroad pendant flying, and the oflicer who commanded having enquired who we were., and whence we came, immediately returned witlv fuch an- fwers as we thought fit to give him : both he and liis people were as pale as fpe^^res, a fad prefag;e of our fulferings in fo unhealthy a country ; but oiir people, 'whoj'ejccept Tupia, were all rofy and plump, feemed to think themfelves fj feafoned by various climates that nothing could hurt them. In the mean time, 1 fent a Lieutenant afliore to acquaint the Governor of our ar- rival, and to make an excule for our not faluting ; for as I could falute with only three guns, except the fwivels, which 1 was of opinion would not be heard, 1 thought it was better to let it alone. As foon as the boat was difpatched the carpenter delivered me an account of the defeds of the fhip, of which the following is a copy: 7/ie defctisofhis Majejlfs bark Endeavour , Lieutenant James Cook commauder, ^ ** The (hip very leaky, as (he makes from tweh'e to fix inches ** water an hour, occaiioned by her main keel being M'ounded in ** many places, and the fcarfs of her iltrn being very open : the ** falfc keel gone beyond the midfhips from forward, and perhaps ** farther, as I had no opportunity of feeing for the water when ** hauled a(hore for repairing : wounded on the larboard fide un- ** der the main channel, wlicre I imagine thegreatelt leak is, but ** could not come at it for the water : one pump on the larboard fide ufelefs \ the others decayed M-ithin an mch and an half of the bore. Otherwife mafts, yards, boats, and hull, in pretty good " condition." As !•«• CAPTAIN COO... KinST VOVAG. , As It was theuniverAl r. - *^^' not (afdy procec-i fT t; ^P^^'on that the {h]n . 1 1 of her bottom r 1 •'"'^f ''"''^'^^^ IncJt'^ '""."^^ , ierdo«^ at this place ; and ,= ht" ^C^' ^''^'^ ^ h^vc ibenece/Tiry to make rhrannS' •°°'' '"=''« '^oulj jjV^a requdt, and the nm '^S"'] '" •"™"'?. ^^ I ns how to provide S'?'" ;T,^PP!ied for in? ?,cl fcrS ?,'''"'^^^^^^^^^^^ U;5,"^', "P^« afKioir tL n ^''''^>; ^° ^^ve where r f this was not the c.^^ i -^"^ ^" «"^ provifi op - June of th» h rl '2'"' fJurinK wH h \t ■ '''""- ■«»«te„i^,rK«- -^.i .op. fpindl^ 6zi CAPTAIN C00K»8 FIRST VOYAGE. fpindle at the main-top-gallant-maft-head, which pro. bably direded the llroke. This (hip lay not more than the diftance of two cables' length from ours, and in all probability we fhould have ihared the lame fate, bin for| the electrical chain which we had but jull got up, ni which condud:ed the lightning over the fide of the lliipJ but though we efcaped the lightning, the explolii fhook us like an earthquake, the chain at the fame time] appearing like a line of fire : a cen^inel was in the adieu of charging hivS piece, and the fhl)ck forced the mu(ke:| cut of his hand, and broke the ijimraer rod. Upon this occafion, I cannot but earneftly reconimend chains of the fame kind to every fhipv whatever be her deftina-I tiob, and 1 hope that the fate of the Dutchman vvillbe a warning to a!l who fhall read this narrative, ?igainli] having an iron fpindle at thie niaft-head. The next morning, I attended at the council- chamber,] and was told that I fhould have every thing I want- cd. In the mean time, the gentlemen alhore agreed! •with the keeper of the hotel for their lodgings and] hoard, at the rate of two rix-dollars, or nine fhi" Perling a day for each ; and as there were five of then), I and tliey would probably have many yifitors from the ihip, he agreed to keep them a feparate table, upon condition that they fhould pay one rix dollar for the dinner of every ftranger,and another for his fupper and bed, if he Ihoiild fleep afhore. Under this ftipulatioa they were to be furnifned with tea, coffee, punch, pipe* and tobacco, for themfelves and their fiiends, as raucU as they could confume ; they were alfo to pay Haifa rupee, or one fliilling and three pence a day foreacftof their fen^ants. I They foon le?rnt that thefe rates were more than double the comn.on charges of board and lodging inl the town, and their table, though it had the appearance of magnificence, was wretchedly ferved. Their dinnetl confifted of one courfe of fifteen diibes, and their lup*! per of one courfe of thirteen, but nine or ten of thcnij (;onfifl:ed of b^d poultry, variouily; dreffed, ^d o"^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. Ci^ ferved up die fecond, third, and even the fourth time : the fame duck having appeared more tlian once roafted, Ifound its way to the table as a fricafee, and a fourth Itime in the lorln of forced meat. It was not long, Ihowever, before they learnt that this treatment was only Iby way of eflTay, and that it was the invariable cuftom loi" the houfe, to fupply all Grangers, at their firfl coming, L'ith fiich fare as could be procured for the leaft money, and conlequently would produce the moll gain : that if either throuj^h indolence or good-nature they were content, it was continued for the benefit of the hoft, |but that if they complained, it was gradually anicnded t'lil they were fatisfied, which fometimes happened he- Ifore they had the worth of their mone}^ After this Kiircovery, they remonftrated, and their fare became better; however, after a few days, Mr Banks hired a little houfe, the next door on the left hand to the hotel, for himfelf and his party, for which he paid after the Irate often rix-dollars, or two pounds five Ihillings iler- ling a month ; but here they were very far from having either the convenience or the privacy which they ex- peded : no perfon was permitted to fleep in this private houfe occafionally, as a gueft to the perfon who hired it, under a penalty, but almoft every Dutchman that went by ran in without any ceremony, to afk what they fold, there having been very feldom any private perlbns at Batavia who had not fomething to fell. Every body here hires a carriage, and Mr Banks hired two. They Ureopen chaifes, made to liold two people, and driven by a man fitting on a coach box j for each of theib he paid two rix-dollars a day. As foon as he was fettled in his new habitation, he fent for Tupia, who till now had continued on board upon account of his illnefs, which was of the bilious Kind, and for which he had obftinately refufed to take m medicine. He foon came afliore, with his boy Tayeto, and though while he was on board, and after he P?^^ irito the boat, he was exceedingly liftlefs and de- |jewed, he no fooner entered the town than he feemed • to $24 CAPTAIN COOK'a FIRST VOYAGE. to be animated with a new foul. The houfes, carriages, jflreets, people, and a multiplicity of other ohje | ed, was the various drefles of the paHing multitude, con- cerning which he made many enquiries ; and when he] was told that in this place, where people cf manydif-l ferent nations were aflcmblcd, every one wore the habit of his country, he defired that he might conform to the cuflom, and appear in that of Otaheite. South Sea cloth was therefore Tent for from the fliip, and he equipped himfelf with great expedition and dexterlt)'. The people who had fcen Otourou, the Indian who had been brought hither by M. Bougainville, enquired whether Tupia was not the fame perfon : from thefe enquiries, we learnt who it was that we had fiippofedl to be Spaniards, from the accounts that had been givea] of two fhips by the Iflanders. In the mean time, I procured an order to the fuper- intendant of the ifiand of Ouruft, where the fhip wasi to be repaired, to receive her there ; and fent by one ofj the Ihips that failed for Holland, an account of ourar-| rival here, to Mr Stephens, the Secretary to the Ad-j miralty. The expences that would be incurred by repairing anti refitting the (hip, rendered it neceffary for me to take iipl money in this place, which I imagined might be donJ without difficulty, but I found myfelf miftaken; forafj ter the moft diligent enquiry, I could not find any prif vate perfon that had ability and inclination to adyancij the fum that 1 wanted. In this difficulty I applied tj the Governor himfelf, by a written requeft, in conlej quence of which, the Shebander had orders to lupp j CAPTAIN CC0K*8 FIRST VGYAGE. 62S\ me with whar money I (houIJ require cut of the Com- pany's Treaiiiry. On the iSdi, as foDn as it was lights having by feveral accidents and miftakes fufFered a delay of many days, f took up the anchor, and ran down to Ouruft : a k ^r h)h afterwards, we went alongfide of the wharf% on (looper's IHand, which lies clofe to Ouruft, in order to lake out our ftores. By this time, having been here only nine days, we began to feci the fatal cfFcdts of the climate and fituation ; Tupi.i, after the flow of fpirits which the novelties of the place produced upon his firft landing, funk on a ludden, and grew every day worfe and worfe. Tayeto was feized wiih an inflammation upon his lungs. Mi" Banks's two fervants became very ill, and himfelf and Dr Solander were attacked by fevers : in a few days, almoft every perfon both on board and afhore was fick; afflded, no doubt, by the low fwampy fituation of the place, and the numberlefs dirty canals which interfe<£t the rov»'n in all diredlions. On the 26th, 1 fet up the tciit for the reception of the ihip's company, of whom there was but a fmall number able to do duty. Poor Tr.j)i.i, of whole life we noiv began to defpair, and who till this time continued alhore with Mr i3anks, defired TO he removed to the (hip, where, he faid, he (hould breathe a freer air than among the numerous houfcs which obilru(n:ed it a(hore : on board the (hip, however, he could not go, fcr (he was unrigged, and preparing to ha laid dov^n at the careening place ; but on the 28th, Mr Bulks went with him to Cooper's Ifland, or, as it is called here, Kuypor, where (he lay, and as he feemecl pleafed with the (pot, a tent was there pitched for him : at this place, both the Tea breeze and the land breeze blew directly over him, and he expre(red great fatisfac- lion in his fituation. Mr Banks, whofe humanity kept him two days with this poor Indian, returned to the town on the 30th, and the iits of his intermittent, which w-^s now become a regular tertian, were To violent as to ^i^nve him of h:s fenies while they lafted, and leave . Vol. i._N« i^. 41^ him 626 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE; him fo weak that he was fcarcely able to crawl down flairs : at this time, Dr Solander's diforder alfo increafed, and Mr Monkhoufe, the Surgeon, was confined to his bed. On the 5th of November, after many delays in con- fequence of the Dutch (hips coming alongfide the wharfs to load pepper, the fliip was laid down, and the fame day Mr Monkhoufe, our Surgeon, a fenfible, Ikil- « ful man, fell the firft facrifice to this fatal country, a lofj which was greaily aggravated by our fituation. Dt Solander was juft able to attend his funeral, but Mr Banks was confined to his bed. Our diflrefs was now very great, and the profpefb before us difcouraging in the • hif^heft degree : our danger was not fuch as n could lurmount by any efforts of our own ; courage, fkill, and diligence were all equally inefFedtual, and death _ was every day making advances upon us, where we 'could neither refill it '• fly. Malay lervants were hired to attend the (ick, but they had fo little fenfe cither of duty or humanity, that they could not be kept within call, and the patient was frequently obliged to get cut of bed to feek them. On the 9th, we loft our poor Indian boy Tayeto, and Tupia was fo much affedtcd, that it was doubted whether he would furvive till the next day. In the mean time, the bottom of the (hip being ex- amined, was found to be in a worfe condition than we apprehended : the falfe keel was all gone to within twenty feet of the ftern poft ; the main keel wasconfi- derably injured in many places; a great quantity of the fheathmg was torn off, and feveral planks were much damaged ; two of them, and the half of a third, under the main channel near the keel, were for the len^h of fix feet, fo worn, that they were not above an eighth part of an inch thick, and here the worms had ipadc their way quite into the timbers ; yet in this conditioa fhe had failed many hundred leagues, where navigation is as dangerous as in any part of the world : how much mifery did we efcape, by being ignorant that fo conli- dcrable a part of the bottom of the vefTel was thinner than CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. ed us to believe that it was true. Every "white inha- bitant of the town indeed is a ibldier ; the younger are conftantly muftered, and thofe who have ferved five years are liable to be called out when their affiftanceis thought to be neceilary ; but as neither cf them are ever exercifed, or do any kind of duty, much cannot be expected from them. The Portugueie, indeed, are in general good m.arkfmen, becaufe they employ thenr.- felves much in fhooting wild hogs and deer: neitha* the Mardykers nor the Chinefe know the uie of lire- arms ; but as they are laid to be brave, they might do much execution w^ith their own weapons, fwords, lances, and daggers. The Mardykers are Indians of all nations, who are defcended from free anceflors, or have them- felvcs been made free. But if It is difficult to attack Batavia by land, is utterly impofTible to attack it by fea : for the water is fo (hal- low^, that it will fcarcely admit a longboat to come with- in cannon ihot of the walls, except in a narrow channel, called the river, that is walled on both fides by ftrong piers, and runs about half a m.ile into the harbour. At the other end, it terminates under the fire of the ftrqrig- eft part of the caf^le ; and here its communir.arion with the canals that interfcd the town is cut oil i)y a lar?:e w^ooden boom, which is Hmt every night at fix o'clock, and upon no j^retence opened till the next nionr.ng, CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. ^27 The harbour of Batavia is accounted the fincfl: in In- jia, and, to all appearance, with good reaiba j it is large enough to contain any number of fhips, and the ground k lo ^'ooc! that one anchor will hold till the cable de- Jcavs : it never admits any Tea that is tronblefome, and |i:s only inconvenience is the ilioal water between the Iroad and the river. When the fca breeze blows frefii, lit makes a cockling fea that is dangerous to boats : our Ijong-boat once ftruck two or three times as fiie was at- Iteinptlng to come out, and regained the river's mouth Lith fonie difficulty. A Dutch boat, laden with fails land rigging for one of the Indiamen 'vvas entirely loft. I Round the harbour, on the outfide, lie many iflands, which the Dutch have taken pofl'eflion of. and apply to IdifFtrent ufcs. To one of them, called Edam, they Itranfpott all Ruropeans who have been guilty of crimes thut are not worthy of death : fome are fentenced to re- main there ninety-nine years, fome forty, fome twenty, Ibme lefs, down to five, in proportion to their offence ; and during their banifhment, they are em.ployed as Haves in making ropes, and other drlitlgcry. In an- other ifland, called Purmerent, they have an hofpital, where people are faid to recover much fader than at Ba- tavia. In a third, called Kuyper,they have warehoules belonging to the Company, chiefly lor rice, and other merchandize of fmall value ; and here the foreign (hips, that are to be laid down at Ourull, another of thele iflands, which with Kuyper has been mentioned before, dis- charge their cargoes at wharfs which are very conveni-r entforthe purpofe. Here the guns, fails,ar.d other ilores ofthe Falmouth, a man of war, which was condemned It this place when flie was returning from iVIanilla,were (icpolired, and the (hip herfelf remained in the harbour with only the warrant oflicers on board tor many years. Remittances were regularly made them from borne; but k'O notice was ever taken of the many memorials they . bt, defiring to be recalled. Happily for them, the I Dutch thought fit, about fix months before our arrival, to fell th^ veir^l and all her (lores, by public audlion, ;;nj <38 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. and fend the officers home in their own fhips. At Ou- luft, they repair all their own ihipping, and keep a large quantity of naval ftores. The country round Batavia is for fome miles a con- tinued range of country houfes and gardens. Many of the gardens are very large, and, by fome ilrange fatality, all are planted with trees almoft as thick as they can ftand ; fo that the country derives no advantage from iu being cleared of the wood that originally covered it, ex^ cept the fruit of that which has been planted in its room. Thefe impenetrable forefts ftand in a dead flat, which extends fome miles beyond them, and is interfeded in many directions by rivers, and more flill by canals, which are navigable for fmall veflels. Nor is this the "wOrft, for the fence of every field and garden is a ditch; and iiiterfperfed among the cultivated ground there are many iiJthy fens, bogs, and morafles, as well frefh as fait. . ^ It is not flrange tha^ the inhabitants of fuch a country {hould be fami^g|^j|nth difeafe and death : preventive medicines afe "IlKn almoft as regularly as food ; and every body expeiHis the returns of ficknef^, as we do the feafons of the year. We did not fee a Tingle face in Batavia that indicated perfe^ health, for there is not the leaft tint of colour in the cheeks either of man or wo- man : the women, indeed, are moft delicately fair ; but with the appearance of difeafe there never can be per- fcOi beauty. People talk of death with as much indif- ference as they do in a camp : and when an acquaint- ance is faid to oe dead, the common reply is, " Well, he owed me nothing ;" or, " I muft get my money of his executors." To this defcription of the environs of Batavia there are but two exceptions. The Goyernor's country houfe is fituated upon a rifing ground ; but its afcent is fo in- confiderable, that it is known to be above the common level only by the canals being left behind, and the ap- pearance of a few bad hedges : his excellency, however, who is a native of this place, has, with fome trouble and CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. <5jJ and cxpence, contrived to inclofe his own garden with a ditch ; fuch is the influence of habit, both upon the tafte and the underftanding. A famous market alio, call^ cd Paflar Tanabank, is held upon an eminence that rifes perpendicularly about thirty feet above the plain ; and except thefe fituations, the ground, for an extent <>f be- tween thirty and forty miles round Batavia, is exadly parallel to the horizon. At the diftance of about forty miles inland there are hills of a confiderable height, where, as we were informed, the air is healthy, and comparatively cool. Here the vegetables of Europe flounfti in great perfection, particularly ftrawberrics, which can but ill bear heat ; and the inhabitants are vigorous and ruddy. Upon thefe hills foine o( the principal people have country houfes, which they vifit once a year ; and one was begun for the Governor, up- on the plan of Blenheim, the famous feat of the Duke of Marlborough, in Oxfordftiire, but it has never been finilhed. To thefe hills alfo people are fent by the )hyf»c:«iis, for the recovery of their heakh, and the ci> eds of the air are faid to be almoft miraculous : the patient grows well in a fliort time, but cpnftantly re- lapfes foon after his return to Batavia. But the fame fituation and circumftances which ren- der Batavia and the country round it imwhdefome, render it the belt gardener's ground in the whole world. The foil is fruitful beyond imagination, and the conve- niences and luxuries of life that it produces are almoft without number. Rice, which is well known to be the corn of thefe countries, and to ferve the inhabitants inftead of bread, grows in great plenty : and I muft here obferve, that in the hilly parts of Java, and in many of the eaftern iflands, a Ipecies of this grain is planted, which in the weftern parts of India is entirely unknown. It is called by the natives Faddy Gunung^ or Mountain rice ; this, contrary to the other fort which muft be under water three parts in four of the time of its growth, is planted upon the fides of hills where no vv^ater.but rain can I come : tf4<^ CAPTAIN COOlC's FIRST VOYAGE. come : it is, however, planted at the beginning; of th; rainy fealbn, and reaped in the hcginninfy of the dr;. 1 How far this kind of rice might be ufeful in our Well Indian ilLindvS, where no bread corn is grown, it may perhaps be wortli wlille to enquire. Indian corn, or maize, is alio produced here ; which the inhabitants gather when young, and toall in the car. Here is alio a great variety of kidney beans, and lentiles, which they call Cadjang^ and which makes a confiderable part or the food ot the common people; befides millet, yams both wet and dry, fwect poratne^^, and European potatoes, which are very good, but na cuhivated in great plenty. In the gardens, there are "cabbages, lettuces, cucuinbers, raddiflies, the white rad- difhes of China, which boil almoil as well as a turnip ; carrots, parfley, celery, pigeon peas, the egg plant,wluch broiled,and eaten with pepper and fait, is very delicious; a kind of greens refembling fpinnage ; onions, very fmall, but excellent ; and afparagus : befides fome Euro- pean plants of a ftrong fmell, particularly fige, hylop, and rue. Sugar is alfo produced here in immenfe quan- tities : very great crops of the finefl: and largefl: canes that can be imagined are produced with very little care, and yield a much larger proportion of fugar than the canes of the Weft Indies. White fugar is (1>LI here at two-pence halfpenny a pound ; and the molallb makes the arrack, of which, as of rum, it is the chief ingredient ; a fmall quantity of rice,, and ibme cocoa- nut wine, being added, chiefly, I fuppofe, to give it flavour. A fmall quantity of indigo is alio produced here, not as an article of trade, but merely for home confumption. But the moft abundant article of vegetable luxury here is the fruit ; of which there is no lefs than fix and thirty different kinds, viz : — The pine apple, fweet oranges, pumplemoefes,which in the Weft Indies are called Ihaddocks ; lemons, limes, mangoes, bananes, grapes, tamarinds, water melons, pumpkins, papaws, guava, fweet fop, cuftard apple, caihew .A CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 641 rnlhcw apple, the cocoa-nut, mangoftan, the jamboo, the iambu-eyer,jumhu-cycr maiiwar,ihe pomegranate, (ftirion, nanca, champada, rambutan, jambolan, the boa bidarra, nam^nam, the catappa, the iiudja, funtul, thd blimbing) the'blimbing bclFe, the cherrema, and the i'alack. '^^^■•- . . Bcfides theic, the ifland of Java, and particularly ths country round Batavia, produces many kinds of fruit which wpre not in feafon during our ftay ; we were aifo told ttat apples, flrawbemes, and many other fruits from Europe, nad been planted up in the mountains, and flouriihed there in great luxuriance. We faw feveral fruits preferved in fugar, that we did not fee recent from the tree, one of which is called Kimkit^ and anotlier Boa Atap : and here are feveral others which are eaten only by the natives, particularly the Kclhr,thc CuilinJina, the Moringa^ and the Soccwn. The Soccunx is of the fame kind with the bread-fruit in the South Sea irmuds, but fo much inferior, that if it had not been for the iimilitude in the outward appearance both of the fruit and the tree, wc fhould not have referred it to that clafs. Thefe and fome others do not merit to be particularly mentioned. The quantity of fruit that is confumed at Batavia Is incredible ; but, that which is publicly expofed to fale is generally over-ripe. A ftranger however may get good iriilt in a ftreet called Pali'ir i-'ifl'ang, which lies north from the great church, and very near it. This ftreet is inhabited by none but Chinefe fruit- fellers, who are fupplled from, tliie gardens of Gentlemen in the neigh- bourhccd of the towi;i, with fuch as is fre{h,and excel- lent in its kind, for which however they in^ufl be paid ir.ore than four tiAie$ the market price. The town in general is fapplied from a confjderable liilaijre, where great quantities of laud arc cultivated ii'eiel / for the prod u«ftion of fruit. The cou^itry people, to -vhom theie lands belong, m^ejt the .people pf the town at two g^at markets; one oh. Mondtiy, called Pajfar Sineen ; and the other on Saturday, called Paffib Voi.l.—N*' ,7. ^ 4M ' Tana- ■>% s^. ^y^"^... IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k // / ■V>r :/- ^5" 1.0 1.1 £ Iti 12.0 11:25 1 1.4 m 1.6 '/ A Jit ^ > V Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STRUT WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716) •72-4S03 :^'\ V" <^ ^'^ -^^/^"^ :\ A V ^42 CAPtAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. Tanabank. Thefe fairs are held at places confiderablv diftant from each other, for the convenience of different diftriifts; neither of them however are more than five miles diftant from Batavia. At thefe fairs, the heft fruit may be bought at the cheapeft rate ; and the fight of them to an European is very entertaining. The quantity of fruit is aftonifliing ; forty or fifty cart loads of the fined pine apples, packed as carelefsly as turnips in Eng- land, are common, aiid other fruit in the fame profufion. The days however on which thefe markets are held arc ill contrived ; the time between Saturday and Monday is top (hort, and that between Monday and Saturday too long : great part of- what is bought on Monday is always milch the worfe for keeping before a new ftock can be bought, either by the retailer or confumer ; fo that for ffeveral days in ever)' week there is no ffood fruit in the hands at any people but the Chinefe in I^lfar Piffang.; \ ^ The inhabitants of this part of India pradife a luxury which feems to be but little attended to ia other coun^ tries ; they are continually burning aromatic woods and refins, and fcatter odqurs round them in a profufion of flowers, poflibly as an antidote to the noifome efflu- via of their ditches and canals. Of ftveet fmelling flowers they have a great variety altogether unknown in Europe. Thefe are fold about the flreets every evening at fun- fet, either ftrung upon a thread, in wreaths of about tw» feet long, or made up into nolecays of different forms, either or which may be purchafed for about a halfpenny. With a mixture or flowers, and the Idaves of a plant CsMedpdTidang, cut into fmall pieces, perfons of both fexes ful their hair and their clothes, and with the fame inixture indulge a much higher luxury by flrewing it On thdr beds, fo that the chamber in which they fleep, breathes the richeil and purefl of all odours, unallayed t>y the fumes which cannot but arife where the fleeper fiie ucdcK two or three blankets and a quilt, for the bed cover-t / , CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 64^ covering here is nothing more \han a fmgle piece of Tme chintz. Before I clofe my account of the vegetable produc- tions of this part of India, I mud take fome notice of the fpices. Java originally produced none but pepper. This is now fent from hence Into Europe to a great; value, but the quantity confumcd hqre is ver^ fmall ; the inhabitants ufe Capjicum, or, as it is called in Europe, Cayan pepper, almofl univerfally in its ftead. Clovei^ and nutmegs, have been monopolized by the Dutch,^ are become too dear to be plentifully ufed by the other inhabitiiits of this country, who are very fond of them. Qovcs, although the^r are faid originally to have been the produce of Machian, or Bachian, a Tmall ifland far to the eaftward, and only fifteen miles to the northvyard of the line, and to have been from thence diffeminatecT by the Dutch, at their firft coming into thefe parts, over all the eaftem ifiands, are now confined to Amboina, and the fmall iiles that lie in its neighbourhood ; thq Dutch having, by dijSerent treaties pf peace between them and the conquered kings of all the other iflands^ ftipulated, that they ihould l^ave only a c^rt<^in number of trees in their dominions, and in future quarrels^ as a puniOiment for difobedience and rebellion, leffened the quaatity, till i^t laft they left them no claim to any^ Nutmegs have in st manner been extirpated in all the idands except their firfl native foil, Bandeep, goats, and hogs. The horfes are fmsjli oevcr exceeding in fize vyhsit we call a 4M2 ftQUt . 64A CAPTAIN COOK*s FIRST VOYAGE. ftout galloway, but they are nimble and fpirited, and are reported to have been found here when the Europe- ans firft came round the Cape of Good Hope. The Horned cattle are faid to be the fame fpecies as thofe in Europe, but they differ fo much in ajjpearance, that we tv'ere mclined to doubt it : they have indeed the palearia or dewlap^ which naturalifts make the diftinguiOiing charadteriftic of the European fpecies, but they certainly are found wild, not only in Java but feveral of the eaft- ^rn iflands. The flefti of thofe that we eat at Batavia, had a finer prain than European beef, but it was Ids juicy, and miferably lean. Buffaloes are plenty, but the butch never eat them, nor will they drink their milk, being prepofTefTed with a notion that both are unwhole- fome, ana tend to produce fevers ; though the natives and Chlnefe eat both, withouv any injury to their health. The fheep are of the kind which have long ears that hang down, and hair inftead of wool ; the flefh of thefe is hard and tough, and iu cviery refped the worft mut- ton we ever faw • we found here» hbwcver, a few Cape iheep, which are excellent, but fo dear that we gave five and forty fhillings apiece for four of them, the heavieft of which weighed only five and forty pounds. The goats are not better than the fheep, but the hogs, efpecially the Chinefe breed, are incomparable, and lb fat, that the purchafer agrees for the lean feparately. The butcher, who is always a Chinefe, without the leali ibruple cuts off as much of the fat as he is deiired, and afterwards fells It to his countrymen, who melt it down, and eat it inflead of butter with their rice : but not-* withibnding the excellence of this pork, the Dutch are fo flrongly j)rej[udiced in favour of every thing that com^s from their native country, that they eat only of the Dutch breed, which are here fold as rtiuch dearer (ban the Chinefe, as the Chinefe are fold dearer than the Dutch in Europe. ; Befides thefe animals, which are tame, they have tdogs and cats, and there are among the diftant moun- f^ns fome wild horfes and cattje : buffaloes are not iomi CArTALN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 6;5 found wild in any part of Java, though tliey ahrund in Macaflar, and feveral other eaftern iflands. The neigh- bourhood of Batavia, however, is plentifully fupplied with two kinds of deer, and wild hogs, whicli are fold at a reafonable price by the Portnguefe, who (lioot ihem, and are very good food. Among the mountains, and in the defert parts of the ifland, there are tygers, it is faid, in great abundance, and fonie rhinocerofcs ; in thele parts alfo there are nionkies, and there are a few of them even in the neighbourhood of Batavia. of tilh, here is an amazing plenty ; many forts ars excellent, and all are very cheap, except the few that are fcarce. It happens here, as in otner places, that vanity ^et8 the better even of appetite : the cheap filh, mod of which is of the beft kmd, is the food only of fliives, and that whicli is dear, only becaiife it is fcarce,and very much infei^ior in every reipedt, is placed upon the tables of the rich. A fenfible houfekeeper once Ipoke to us freely upon the fubje^. I knowjaid he,as well as you, that I could purchafe a better di(h of iilli for a Ihiliing, than what now cofts me ten ; but if I (liould make lb ^ood a ufc of my money, I (hould here be as' much deibifed, 98 you would be m Europe, if you were to cover your table with offals, fit only for beggars or dogs. Turtle is alfo found here, but it is Leither fo fweet nor fo fat as the Weft Indian turtle, even in London ; fuch as it is, however, we fhould confider it as a dainty ; hut the Dutch among other fingularitics, do not eat it* We ftw fome lizards, or Iguanas, here of a very larg^ hze ; we were told that fome were as thick as a man's thigh, and Mr Banks (hot one that was five feet long : the fledi of this animal proved to be very good food. Poultry is very good here, and in great plenty : fowls of a very large fize, ducks, and geele are very cheap ; pigeons are dear, and the price of turkies extiuvagant vTe found the fletli of theie animals lean and dry, but tills was merely the effect of their being ill fed, for thofe ihftt we fed ourfdves were as good as any of the fame «ltf CAPTAIN COOK't FIRST VOYAGE. land that we had tailed in Europe, and we fomctimej thought them even better. Wild fowl in general is fcar-ce. We once faw a wild inch in the fields, but never any that were to be fold. We frequently faw fnipes of two kinds, one of them txa<£lty the fame as that in Europe, and a kindof thruih was always to be had in great plenty of the Portuguefe, who, for I Jcnow not what reaion, leem to have mono- |xxfized the wild fowl and game. Of fnipej\, it is re- markable that they are found in more parrs of the world than any other bird, being common alruoft all over Europe, Alia, Africa, and America. With refpe^t to dririk, Nature has not been quite fo Iberal to ihje inhabitants of Java as to ibme whom fhe lias placed in the lefs fruitful regions of the north. The ikatiye Javanefe,and mpft of the other Indians who in- liablt this ifland, are indeed Mahometans, and therefore £ave no reafon to regret the want of wine ; but, as if the prohibition of their law refpe<5fced only the manner ©f becoming drunk, and nqt drunkcnnefs itfelf, they f hew opium, to the total fubveriion not only of their iraderftanding but their health* The arrack that is made here, is too well known to s^ed a defcription : b^iides which, the palm yields a wine of the fame kind with that which has already been fjefcribed in the account of the iiland of Savu ; it is pro- cured from the fame tree, in tli^ fanje n>anner, and i^ Ibid in three flates. The firft, in wjiich it is called Tttac p»mfiy differs little from that in wjiich it comes from the free ; yet even this has received fome psrgparation aHo- l^^r unknown to us, in confequence of which it will Iccep dght and forty hours, though otherwife it would 4poiI \n t\yelve : in this (lace it has an agreeable fweet- »ef$, and;will not intoxicate. In tl^e other two ftates it itas> undergone a fermentation, and received an infufion fyf certain herbs and roots, by which it lofes its fweetnefi?, sad acquires a tade very auflere and difagreeable. Id fjne of thefe ftates it is called Tuac ^r^i, ancTin the other fmae-^m^r^iy but the fpecilic diQerence ( 4p not knowp CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOtAGR. ^n- in both, however, it intoxicates very powerfully. A liquor called Tuac is alfo made from the cocoa-nut tree, but this is ufed chiefly to put into the arraclc, for in that wiiich is good it is an eflential ingreclient. The town of Batavia, although, as I have already ob- fcrved, it is the capital of the Dutch dominions in In-» (lia, is To fat from oeing peopled with Dutchmen, that not one fifth pan, even of the European inhahitants c£ thctoWn, and its environs, are natives of Holland, ot of Dutch extra^lion : the greater part are I'ortuguefr, and beiides Europeans, there are Irkiians of various na- tions, and Chinefe, befides a great number of ncgrd- ilaves. In the troops, there are natives of almoll cvtr^ country in Europe, but the Germans are more than ail thcTcft put together; there are fome Engli(h and French, but the Dutch, though other Europeans are permitteiJ to get money licre, keep all the power in their owa, hands, and confequeady pofiefs all public employ mentji. No man, of whatever nation, can come hither to fettle, in any other chara(fter than that of a foldier in the Cora-^ pany s fervice, in which, before they are accepted, they mult covenant to remain five years. Ar. foon, however, his form has been complied with, they are allowed^ ?.s upon application to the coupxil, to abfent themfelvea from their corps, and enter immediately into any brancla of trade, which their money or credit will enable thcia to carry on; and by this means it is that all the white inhabitants of the place are foldiers* Women, however, of all nations are permitted to fet- tle here, without coming under any rellri^ions ; yet we were told that there were not, when we were sX. Batavia, twerity women in the place that were born in Europe, but that the white wometi, who were by no means fcarce, were defcendants from European parents of the third or fourth generation, the gleanings of many families who had fucceffively come hither, and in the male line become extind ; for it is certain that^ what- ever be the caufe, this climate is notfo fatal to the ladies as to the other fex. . ... Thefc #4^ CAPTAIN COOK'b FIRST VOYAGfi. Tlicfe women imitate the Indians in every particiiicir;! their drefs is made of tlie lame materials, their hair is | worn in the fame manner, and they ai;e equally cnfla- ved by the habit of chewing beetle. The merchants carry on their bufinefs here v»rith lefs trouble perhaos than in any other part of tlic world: every manufadure is managed by the Chinefe, who fell the produce of their labour to the merchant, refident here, for they are permitted to fell it to no one elfe; fo that when a Ihip comes in, and befpeaks perhaps a hundred leagers of arrack, or any cjuantity of other commodities, the merchant has nothmg to do hut to fend orders to his Chinefe to fee them delivered on board : he obeys the command, brings a receipt (igned by the mafter of the iliip for the goods to his employer, who receives the money, and having deduded his profit, pays the Chinefe his demand. With goods that are imported, however, the merchant has a little more trouble, for thefe he muft examine, receive, and lay up in his warehoufe, accoixling to the practice of other countries. The Portuguefe are called by the natives Oranftrau^ or Nazarcen men, (Oran, being Man in the language of the country) to diftinguifli them from other Europe- ans ; yet they are included in the general appellation of Caper or Cafir^ an opprobrious term, applien by Malio- metans to all who do not profefs their faith. Thele Eeople, however, are Poituguefe only in name ; they ave renounced the religion of Rome; and bcccune Lu- therans: neither have they the leaft coramunicatioa "With the country of their forefathers, or even know- ledge of it : they fpeak indeed a corrupt dialed of the Portuguefe language, but much more frequently ufe the Malay : they are never fufFered to employ thenifelves in any but mean joccupations : many of them live by hunting, many by warning linen, and fome are handi- craftfmen and artificers. They have adopted all the «uftom8 of the Indians, from whom they are diflinguifli- , ^ chiefly by their features aad complexion, their /kin beiagl CAPTAIN COOIC's FIRST VOYAGE. 6.>9 being confiderahly darker, aac! their nolfs mrre fiiarp ; their Jrel's is exactly the Tame, except in the manner uf wearing tlieir hair. The Indians, who are mixed with the Dutch and Portuguefe in the town of Batavia, and the country ad- jacent, are not, as mielu he fuppofcd, Javanefe, the original natives of the iiland, but natives of the various iilinds from which the Dutch import flaves, and are either fuch as have ththifelves heen manumizcd, or the dtfcendantsofthofcwho formerly received manumiflion; and they arc all comprehended under the general name of Oraftjhm^ or ijalam^ fignifying Believers of the true Faith. The natives of every country, however, in other refpcds keep ihemfclvcs diftindl from the reft, and are not lefs llrongly marked than the flaves by the vices oc virtues of their relpedive nations. Many of thefe em- ploy ihemfelves in the cultivation of gardens, and in idling fruit and flowers. Beetle and areca, which are here called Siri and Plnang^ and chewed by both fexcs and every rank in amazing quantities, are all grown by thele Indians : lime is alfo mixed with thefe roots here as it is in Savu, bin it is lefs pernicious to the teeth, bc- caiife it is firft flaked, and, befides the lime, a fubftance called gambir^ which is brouglit from the continent of India ; the better fort of women alio add cardamum, and many other aromatics, to give the breath an agreeable linell. Jiotne of the Indians, however, are employed in fiiliing, and as lightermen, to carry goods from place to place by water; and fome are rich, and live with much of the I'plendour of their country, Svhich chiefly confifls. inthc number of their flaves. In the article of food thefe Ifalams are remarkably temperate ; it confifts chiefly of boiled rice, with a fmall proportion of bufl?alo, fifli, or fowl, and fometimes of dried fifli, and dried fhrimps, which are brought hither! trooi China; every difh, however, is highly feafoned. with Cayan pepper, and they have many kinds of paftry made of rice flower, and other things to which I am a VoI.I.-NP'i;. 4 N ftran- 6^Q CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. ilranger; they eat alfo a great deal of fruit, particularly plantains. I But notwithftanding their general temperance, their I feads are plentiful, and, accordmg to their manner, magnificent. As they are Mahometans, wine and Arong liquors profefledly make no part of their enter, tainment, neither do they often indulge with them pri- vately, contenting themfelves with their beetle and opium. The principal folemnity among them is a wedding, upon which occafion both the families borrow as many ornaments of gold and filver as ihey can, to adorn the bride and bridegroom, fo that their drefles are very fhowy and magnificent. The feafts that are given upon .thefe occafions among the rich, laft fometimes a fort- night, and fometimes longer ; and during this time, the man, although married on the firft day, is, by the women, kept from his wife. The language that is fpoken among all thefe people, from what place foever they originally came, is the Ma- lay ; at lead it is a language fo called, and probably it is a very corrupt dialedt of that fpoken at Malacca. Every litde ifland has a language of its own, and Java has two or three, but this lingua franca is the only language that is now fpoken here, and, as 1 am told, it prevails over a great part of the Eaft Indies. A didionary of Malay and EngU(h was publiihed in London by Thomas Bowrey, in the year lyor. Their women wear as much hair as can grow upon the head, and to increafe the quantity, they ufe oils, and other preparations of various 'kinds. Of this ornament Nature has been very liberal ; it is univerfally black, and is formed into a kind of circular wreath upon the top of the head, where it is faftened with a bodkin, in a tafte which we thought inexpreffibly elegant : the wreath of hair is furrounded by another of flowers, in which the Arabian jeflamine is beautifully intermixed with the golden ftars of the Bonger Tonjong, ' Both fexes condantly bathe themfelves in the river at ' lead CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. 6s I If aft once a day, a pra<^ice which, in this hot couotry, is equally neceflary DOth to perfonal delicacy and health. The teeth of thefe. people alfo, whatever they may fuffer in their colour by chewinj.^ beetle, are an obje(Sl of great attention : the ends of them, both in the upper and under jaw, are rubbed with a kind of whetftone, by a very troublefome and painful operation, till they are perfedly even and flat, fo that they cannot lofe lefs than half a line in their length. A deep grove is then made crofsthe teeth of the upper jaw, parallel with the gums, and in the middle between them and the extremity of the teeth ; the depth of this groove is at lead equal to one-fourth of the thicknefs of the teeth, fo that it penetrates far beyond what is called the enamel, the leaft injury to which, according to the dentifts of Europe, is fatal ; yet among thefe people, where the praftice of thus wounding the enamel is univerfal, we never faw a rott.en tooth ; nor is the blacknefs a ilain, but a covering, which may be waflied off at pleafure, and the teeth then appear as white as ivory, which hnivever is not an excellence in the eflimation of the belles and beaus of thefe nations, Thefe are the people among whom the pradlice that is called a mock, or running a muck, has prevailed for time immemorial. It is well known, that to run a muck in the original fenfe of the word, is to get intoxi- cated with opium, and then rufli into the ftreet with a drawn weapon, and kill whoever comes in the way, till the party is himfelf either killed or taken prifoner ; of thisfeveral inftances happened while we were at Batavia, and one of the officers, whofe bufmefs it is, among other things, to apprehend fuch people, told us, that there was fcarcely a week in which he, or fome of his breth«p ren, were not called upon to take one of them into cus- tody. In one of the inftances that came to our know- ledge, the party had been feverely injured by the perfidy of women, and was mad with jealoufy before he made himfelf drunk with opium j and we were told, that the In- fo \vho runs a mucK is always firft driven to defperatior> 4 N i5 by 6 $2 CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOTAGF. by fome outrage, and always firft revenges himfelf nprj thofe who h.ive clone him wrong: we were alfo told, that' though thefe unhappy wretcht* aftenvards run intot!:: ftrcets with a wea;?on in their hand, frantic and fnanJ ing at the mouth, yet they never kill any hut thofe ^h attempt to apprehend them, or ihofe whom they fufptci of fucn an intention, and that whoever gives them vvsy is fafe. They a-rc generally flaves, v ho, indeed, are moft fiil> jc£t to indilts, and leaft ah!c to obtain legal redrefs: freemen, however, are fometimes provoked into this ex- travagance, and one cf the pcrfons who run a muck while we were at Batavia, was free and in eafy circuin- Aances. He was jealous of his own brother, whom he firft killed, ^nd afrerwards two others, who attempted to oppofe liim : he did not, however, come o-^t of his houie, but endeavoured to defend himfelf in it, tluvigh the opium had fo far deprived him of his fenfes, that cf three mufkets, which he attempted to ufe againft the of- ficers of |uftice, not one was either loaded or piimttl. If the ofhcer takes one of thefe amocks, or mohawks, as they have been called by an eafy corruption, alive, his reward is very confiderable, but if he kills them, no- thing is added to his ufual pay ; yet fuch is the fury of their defperation, that three out of four are of neceffity deflroycn in the attempt to fecure them, though the or- iicers are provided with inflruments like large tongs, or pincers, to lay hold of them without coming within the reach of their weapon. Thofe who happen to be taken alive are generally wounded, but they are always broken alive upon the wheel, and if the phyfician who is ap- pointed to examine their wounds, thinks them likely to be mortal, the punifhment is inflifted immediately, and the place of execution is generally the fpot where the firll murder was committed. Amonp; thefe people, there are many abfurd practices and opinions which they derive from their Pagan an- ceftors: they believe that the devil, lyhom they call Satan, is the caufe of all ficknefs and adverfity, and for . . thw CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 6-* this reafon, when they are Tick, or in diftrefs, they con- fccrate meat, money, and otlicr things to him as a prc- pitiarion. U'any one among tlicm isrcftlefs, and dreams tor two or three nights fuccefii^'dy, he concludes that fatan has taken that method of layinj;^ his commands upon him, which if he negleOs to fuHil, he will cer- tainly fnffer (icknerr. or death, thcngli they are not re- vealed with rufTicicnt perfpicuity to aiccrtain their mean- ing : to interpret his dream, therefore, lie taxes his wits tnthe uttcrmoft, and if, hy takinj^ it literally or figura- tively, dircdly or by contraries, he can put no expla- rarion upon it that perfectly fatishes him, he has re- coiirfc to the cawin or pnci), who nlTifts him with a com- ment and illuftrations, and perfetlly reveals the myftc- rious fuggcftions of the night. It generally appears that the devil wants viduals or money, which arc al- ways allotted him, and being placed on a little plate of cocoa-nut leaves, are hung upon the branch of a tree near the river, fo that it feems not to he the opinion of thelc people, that in prowling the earth the devil " walketh through dry places." Mr Banks once afked, wiiether they thought fatan fpent the money, or eat the victuals ; he was anfwered, that as to tlic money it was conJidcred rather as a muld upon an offender, than a gift to him who had enjoined it, and that therefore if it was devoted by the dreamer, it mattered not into whofe hands it came, and they fuppofed that it was generally the prize of fome ftranger who wandered that way ; but as to the meat they were clearly of opinion that, al- though the devil did not eat the grofs parts, yet, by bringing his mouth near it, he fucked out all its favour without changing its pofition, fo that aftcr^vards it was as taftelefs as water. But they have another fuperftitious opinion that is ftill more unaccountable. They believe that women, when they are delivered of children, are frequently at the fame time delivered of a young crocodile, as a twin to the infant : they believe that thefe creatures are re- ceived molt carefully by the naidwifc, and immediately parried ^54 CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. carried down to the river, and put into the water. The family in which fiich a birth is fuppofed to have hap- penea, conftantly put vidluals into the river for their amphibious relation, and cfpecially the twin, who, as long as he lives, goes down to tlie river at ftated fea- fons, to fullil this fraternal duty, for the negled of which it is the uiiiverfal opinion that he will be vifited with ficlcnefs or death, what could at firft produce a notion fo extravagant and abfurd, it is not cafy to guefs, efpecially as it fecms to be totally unconncdtu with any religious myitery, and how a fadl which never happen^ cd, fliould be pretended to happen every day, by thofe who cannot be deceived into a belief of it by appear- ances, nor have any apparent intereft in the fraud, is a problem ftill more difficult to folve. Nothing, however, can be more certain than the firm belief of this ftrange abfurdity among them, for we had the concurrent tef- timony of every Indian who was queftioned about it, in its favour. It fecms to have taken its rife in the iflands of Celebes and Boutou, where many of the in-^ habitants keep crocodiles in their families ; but, how- ever that be, the opinion has fpread over all the eaftera iflands, even to Timor and Ceram, and weftward as far as Java, and Sumatra, where, however, young croco-. diles are, I believe, never kept. Thcfe crododile twins are called Sudarasy and I (hall relate one of the innumerable ftories that were told us, in proof of their exiftence, from ocular demonftration, A young female flave, who was born and bred up among the Englifh at Bencoolen, and had learnt a litdc of the language, told Mr Banks that her father, when he was dying, acquainted her that he had a crocodile for his fudaray and folemnly charged her to give him meat when he fliould be dead, telling her in what part of the river he v»'as to be found, and by what name he was to be called up. That in puHuance of her father's inftruc^ tions and command, fhe went to the river, and ftanding upon the bank, called out Radja Poutiy white king, up- on which ft crocc. 'Jile came to her QUt of tbc wate^ ^"^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. <5.'S e:t from her hand the provifions that flie had brought him. When fhe was dcfired to delcrlbe tliis paternal uncle, who in lb Grange a fhape had taken up his dwel- ling in the water, ihe faid, that he was not like other crocodiles, but much handfomer; that his body was (potted and his nofe red ; that l>e had bracelets or gold upon his fe^t, and ear-rings of the fame metal in his ears. Mr Hanks heard this tale of ridiculous falfehood paticndy to the end, and then difmilTcd the girl without reminding her, that a crocodile with ears was as ftrange a monfter as a dog with a cloTen foot. Some time after this a fervant whom Mr Banks had hired at Batavia, and who was the fon of a Dutchman by a Javanefe woman^ thought fit to acquaint his m after that he had (cen a crocodile of the fame kind, which had alfo been (een by many others, both Dutchmen and Malays : that being very young, it was but two feet long, and had brace- lets of gold upon its feet. There is no giving credit to thefe ftories, faid Mr Banks, for I was told the other day that a crocodile had ear-rings ; and you know that could not be true, beeaufe crocodiles have no ears. Ah Sir, faid the man, thefe Sudara Oran are not like other crocodiles ; they have five toes upon each foot, a large tongue that fills their mouth, and ears alfo, although they are indeed very fmall. liow much of what thefe people related they believ- ed, cannot be known ; for there are no bounds to the credulity of ignorance and folly. In the girl's relation, however, there are fomc things in which Ihe could not be deceived ; and therefore mull have been guilty of wilful falfehood. Her father might, perhaps, {jive her a charge to feed a crocodile,, in confcquence of his ht- lieving that it was his fudara ; but its coming to her out of the river, when fhe called it by the name of white king, and taking the food Ihe had brought it, mud have been a fable of her own invention ; for this beirig falfe, it was impofTibie that fhe ihould believe it to be true. The girl's ftory, however, as well as that of the man is a ftrong proot that they both firmly believed the exift- eace 6s6 CAPTAIN COOK'3 FIRST VOYAGE. cnce of crocodiles that are fudaras to men ; and the glrl'g fidlion will be eafily accounted for, if we recoiled, that the earneft defire which every one feels to make othirs believe what he believes himlelf, is a ftrong temptation to fupport it by unjuftifiable evidence. And the aver- ring what is known to be falfe, in order to produce in others the belief of what is thought to be true, muft, upon the mo ft: charitable principles, be imputed to many, otherwife venerable charadters, through whole hanas the dodrines of Chriftianity pafled for many ages in their way to us, as the fource of all the filly fables re- lated of the Romifh faints, many of them not lefs ex- travagant and abfurd than this ftory of the white king, . and all of them the invention of the firftrelater. Tlie Bougis, Macaflars, and Boetons, are fo (irmly perfuaded that they have relations of the crocodile fpe- cies in the rivers of their own country, that they per- form a periodical ceremony in remembrance of them. Large parlies of them go out in a boat, furnifhed with great plenty of provifions, and all kinds of mufic, and row backwards and forwards, in places where croco- diles and allegators are moft common, fmging and weep- ing by turns, each invoking his kindred, till a croco- dile appears, when the mufic inllantly flops, and pro- vifions, beetle, and tobacco are thrown into the water. By this civility to the fpecies, they hope to recommend themfclves to their relations at home ; and that it will be accepted inftead of offerings immediately to them- fclves, which it is not in their power to pay. In the next rank to the Indians (land the Chinefe, who in this place are numerous, but poflefs very little Sroperty ; many of them live within the walls, and keep lops. The fruit- fellers of PafTar PiflTang have been mentioned already ; but others have a rich (how of Eu- ropean and Chinefe goods : the far greater part, how- ever, live in a quarter by themfelves, without the walls, called Campang China. Many of them are carpenters, joiners, fmiths, taylors, flipper makers, dyers of^ cotton, aud embroiderers j maintaming the charader of indus- try CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. <5T try that is iiniverfally given of them : and foniearc fcat- tered about the country, where they cultivate gardens^ jbw rice and fugar, or keep cattle ai^d buQaloes, whofd milk they bririg daily to town. There is nothing dean or dirty, honeft or difhoneft, ' provided there is not two much danger of a halter, tha? the Chincfe will not readily do for money. But though they work with great diligence, and patiently undergo any degree of labour; yet no fooner have thev laid down their tools than they begin to game, either at cards or dice, or fome other play among the multitude that they have invented, which are altogether unknown in Europe: to this they apply with fuch eagernefs, as jfcarcely to allow time for the neceflary refreftments of " ; food and fleep ; fo that it is as rare to fee a Chinefe idle, as it is to fee a Dutchman or an Indian employed* In manners they are always civil, or rather ohfcqui- ous ; and in drefs they are remarkably near, and clean, to whatever rank of life they belong. J ihall not at- tempt a defcription either of their peribns or habits, for the better kind of China paper, which is now common- in England, exhibits a perfe£l reprefentation of both, though perhaps with fome flight es,3ggerations ap- proaching towards the caricatura. In eating they are eafily fatisfied, though the few that. are rich have many favoury diflies. Rice, with a fmall proportion of flefh or filh, is the food of the poor ; and they have greatly the advantage of the Mahometan In- dians, whofe religion forbids them to eat of many things Vfhichthey could mofl eafily procure. The Chinefe,, on the contrary, being under no reitraint, ea'', befides pork, dogs, cats, frogs, lizards, ferpents of many kinds, and a great variety of iea animals, which the other in- hai)itants of this country do not eonfideras food: they eat alfo many vegetables, which an European, except he was peri thing with hunger, would never touch. The Cihinefe have a fingular fuperftition with regard to the burial of their dearl ; for they will upon no occa- sion open the ground a fecond time, where a body has Vol. I.—N" 17. 4 O been SsS CAPtAlN C00K*8 FIRST VOYAGE. been interred. Their burying grounds, therefore, in the neighbourhood of Batavia, cover many hundred acres, and the Dutch, grudging the walle of fo much land, will not fell any for this purpofe but at the molt | exorbitant price. The Ghinefe, however, contrive to raife the purchale rnoncy, and afford another inftanceot I the folly and weaknefs of human nature, in transferring A regard for the living to the dead, and making that the object of folicitude and expence, which cannot receive the leaft benefit from either. Under the influence of I this univetfal prejudice, they take an uncommon me- thod to preferve the bbd^ intire, and prevent there- mains of it from being mixed with the earth that fur« rounds it. They inclofc it in a large thick coffin of wood, not made of planks joined together, but hollowed out of the folid timber, like a canoe ; this bein^ covered, and let down into the grave, is furroimded with a coat of their mortar, called Chinam, about eight or ten inches thick, which in a (hort time becomes as hard as a ftone. 1 he relations of the deceafed attend the funeral cere- mony, with d coniiderable number of women that are hired to wefep ; it might reafonably be fuppofed that the hired appearance of forrow could no more flatter the living than benefit me dead ; yet the appearance of forrow is known to be hired among people much more refledive and enlightened than the Chinefc. In Batavia, the law require** that every man fhould be buried ac- cording to lii^rank, which is in no cafe difpenfed with; ih thift if the deceafed has not left fufficient to pay his debts, an officer takes an inventory of what was in his pofleflion when he died, and out of the prodvics: buries him in the manner prefcribed, leaving only the over- plus to his creditors. Thus in many inftances are the jiving facrificed to the dead, and money, that ihould difcharge a debt, or feed an orphan, laviftied in idle proceflions, or depofited in the earth to ror-. Another numerous clais among the inhabitants of this country is the flaves ; for by (laves the Dutch, Portu- gucfc, CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. ^S9 jfuefe, and Indians, however dliFerent in their rank or jiiuation, are conftantly attended : they are purchafed from Sumatra, Malac:a, and almoft all the eaftern jllands. The natives of Java, very few of whom, as I have obferved, live in the neighbourhood of 13atavia, have an exemption from flavcry under the lancftion of very levere penal lawg, which 1 believe are leldom vio- lated. The price of thefe flaves is from ten to twenty pounds fterling ; but girls, if they have beauty, fome- limes fetch a hundred. They are a very lazy fet of people ; bi!t as they will do but lltde work, they are content with a little viduals, fubfifting altogether upon boiled rice, and a fmall quantity of the cheapeft fiih. As ihey are natives of different countries, they differ from cacn other extremely, both in perfon and difpofition. The African negroes, called here Papua^ are the worft, and confequently may be purchafed for the lead money : they are all thieves, and all in<;orrigiblo. Next to thefe are the Bougis and Macaffars, both from the ifland of Celebes ; thele are lazy in the higheft degree, and though not fo much addi^ed to theu as the negroes, have a cruel and vindictive fpirit, which renders them extreme-f- ly dangerous ; efpecially as, to gratify their i-efentment, they will make no fcruple of 'fvcrificing life. The heft ilaves, and confequently the dearett, are procured from the ifland of Bali ; the mod' beautiful women from Nias, a fmall ifland on the coaft of Sumatra ; but they are of a tender and delicate conftitutich, arid foon fall 2^ facriiice to the unwholefome air of B^cavia. Befidea thefe, there are Malays, and flaves of feveral other de-. nominations, whofe particular charaderidics I do noc remember. Tlie flaves are wholly in the power of their mafters with refpedt to any puniflimcnt that does not take away life; but if a flave dies in confequence of punifliment, though his death fliould not appear to have been in-* tended, the mafter is called to a (evere account, and he. is generally condemned to fuffer capitally. For thia wn the mafter feldom inflids pumflimcnt upon the 40a flavq 666 CAPTAIN CdOlt^ FlRSt V6YAQE. (lave hlmfelf, but applies to an officer called a Mariiicu, one of whom is ftationed in every diflri£^. The duty of the Marineu is to quell riots, and to take offenders info cuftody ; hut n^ore particularly to apprehend run* away flaves, and punilh thern for fuch crimes as the maftcr, Tupported by proper evidence, lays to their charge : the puni{hn>ent however is not inflided by the Marineu in perlbn, but by flaves who are bred up to the bulinefs. Men are puniflied publicly» before the door of their raafter's houfe ; but women within it. The punifhment is by ftripe*^, the number being pro- portioned to the offence ; and they are given with rods made of rattans, which are fplit into flendet twigs for the purpofe, and fetch bl6od at every flrpke. A comrtion puniiivnteht cofts the mafter a rixdollar, and a fevere one aducateen, about (ix Ihillings and eight pence. Tlie mafter is alfo obliged to allow (he. flave three double* cheys, equal tp about feven pence half-penny a week, as an encouragement. j\nd to prevent his being under temptations to fteal too ftrbng to be refh'ted. Conqernipg the government of this place I can fay but little. We obferved however a remarkable fubor- dination among the people. Every man who is able to keep houfe has a certain fpecific rank acquired by the length of his fervices to the company; the dilrerent ranks which are thus acquired are diftinguilhed by the bmamehts of the coaches and the dreffes of the coach* inen : fpme are obliged to ride in plain coaches, fomc are allowed to paint them in different manners and de- grees, and fome to gild them. The coachman alfo ap* pears in clothes that are quite plain, or more oi: lefs adorned with lace. The officer who prefides here has the title of Gover- nor General of the Indies, and the Dutch Governotis of all the other fetdements ai*e fubordifiate to him, and obliged to repair to Batavia that he may pafe their ac- counts. If they appear t6 haye been criminal, ot even ilegligent, he puniihes them by delay, and detains theni ►during pleafure, fometimes one year, foroetitnes two years, CAPtAlK COOK'S rXRST VOYAGE. 66t years, and fonnetimcs three ; far they cannot quit the place till , he gives them a difraiffion. Next to the Governor arc the members of tlie council, called here Edele Heenuy and by the corruption of the Englifh y^- Icers, Theie Idolcers take upon them fo much ftate that whoever meets them in a carriage, is expeded to rife up ^nd bow, then to drive on one fide of the road, and there ftop till they are pall : the fame homage is required alfo to their wives and even their children ; and it is commonly paid thenvby the inhabitants. But fome of our Captains have thought fo flavifti a mark of re- fpeft beneath the dignity which they derived from the lervice of his Britannic Maiefty, and have refufcd to pay- it ; yet, if thev were in a hired carriage, nothing could deter the coachman fiom honouring the Dutch Grandee at their expence, but the mod peremptory menace of immediate death. Juftice is adminlftcred here by a body of lawyfcra, who have ranks of diftinfbion among themfelves. Con*- cerning their proceedings in queftions of property, I know nothing ; but their decHfions in criminal cales feem to befcvere with refped to the tiatives, and lenient with refped to their own people, in a criminal degree. A Ghriftian always is indulged with an opportunity ol' efcaping before he is brought to a trial, whatever may have been his offence ; and if he is brought to a trial and coQvided, he is feldonii punilhed with death : while the poor Indians on the contrary are hanged, and brokea upon the wheel, and even impaled alive without mercy. Th^ Malays and Chinefe have judicial officers of their own, under the denominations of Captains and Lieu- tenants, who determine in civil cafes, fubje^ to an ap- peal to the DMtch court. The taxes paid by thefe people to the Company are very confiderable ; and that which is exafted of theni for liberty to \irear their hair, is by no means the Iea(V« They are paid monthly, and to fave the trouble and te|^ of coUe(£^g them, a^g is hoiiled ujpoa the top ^% CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. f» of ahoufe in the middle of the town when a payment Is 4lue, and the Chinefe have experienced that it is their intereft to repair thither with their money without de- lay. The monev current here confifts of ducats, worth a hundred and thirty-two ftivers ; ducatoons, eighty ftivers ; imperial rixdoUars, fixty ; rupees of Batavia, thirty ; fchellings, fix ; double cheys, two ftivers and a half ; and doits, one-fourth of a fti ver. Spani(h dollars, when we were here, were at five (hillings and five pence ; and we were told, that they were never lower than five fliillings and four pdice, even at the Compa- ny's warehoufe. For Englifh guineas we could never get more than nineteen ftiillings upon an i verage ; for Siough the Chinefe would give twenty (liillings for feme of the brighteft, they would give no more than feven^ teen (hillings for thofe that were much worn. It may, perhaps, be of fome advantage to ftrangers to be told that there are two kinds of coin here, of the fame denomination, milled and unmilled, and that the milled IS of mod value. A milled ducatoon is worth eighty ftivers; but an unmilled ducatoon is worth no more than feventy-two. All accounts are kept in rixdoUars and ftivers, which, here at leaft, are mere nominal coins, like our pound fterling. The rixdoUar is equal to forty- eight ftivers, about four (hillings and fix pence Englilh liurrency. Thf CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. CC^ The Pajfagefrom Balavia to the Cape of Good Hope : Seme Account of Prince's JJland and its Inhabitants^ and a comparative View of their Language ivitb the Malay and Javanefe, ON Thurfday the 27th of December, at fix o'clock m the morning, we weighed again and flood out to lea. After much delay by contrary winds, we weathered Pulo Pare on the 29th, and ftood in for the main ; icon after we fetched a fmall iiland under the main, in the midway between Batavia and Bantam, calkd Manea- ter's Ifland The next day, we weathered lirft Wap- ping Ifland, and then Pulo Babi, On the 3ifl, we ftood over to the Sumatra fliore;' and on the morning of New-Year's day, 177I1 wc flood over for the Java fhore. ::^3fi m We continued our.courfe as 'he wind permitted usr till three o'clock in the afternoon of the 5th, when we anchored under the fouth-eaft fKie of Prince's .Iiland, in: eighteen fathom, in order to reauit our wood and wa-i ter, and procure rcfreOiments for the fick, many of whom were now become much worfe than they were when we left Batavia. As foon as the (hip was fecured,. I went afhore, accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr So- lander, and we were met upon the beach by ibme In- dians who carried us immediately to a man, who, they; faitl, was their King. After we had exchanged a few compliments with his Majefty, we proceeded to bufi- nefs ; but in fettling the price of turtle we could not agree ; this however did not dilcourage us, as we made no doubt but that we ihould buy them at our own price in the morning. As foon as we parted, the Indians dilperfed, m CAPTAIN CroOK'8 riRST VOYAOt difpcrfed, and we proceeded along the (hore in fearcH of a watering-place. In this we were tnore fuccefsful ; we found water very conveniently fituated. and, if a lit- tle care was taken in filling it, we had reaion to believe that it would prove good* Jiifl as We were going off, fbme Indians, who remained with a canoe upon the beach, fold iw three turtle ; but exaded a proimfe of us that we fhould not tell the King. The next morning, while a party was eniployed in filling water, we renewed our traffic for turtle : at firft, the Indians dropped their demands flowly, but about noon, they agreed to take the price that 'vVe offered, fo that before niglit we had turtle in plenty : the three tjtat we had purchafed the evening before, were in the mean time ferved to the fhip's company, who, till the day before^ had not once been ferved with fait provi- fions from the time of our arrival at Savu, which waii now near four months. In the evening, Mr Bank went to pay his refpedts to the King, at his palace, ia the middle of a rice field, and though his Majefly was bufily employed in drefling his own fupper^he received the flranger yery gracioufly* The next day, the nati^^GS came down to the trading* place, with fowls, fi(h, monkies, fmall deer, and fdme vegetables, but no turtle, for they faid that we had bought them all the day before. The next day, how- ever, more turtle appeared at market, and fom6 were brought down every day afterwards, during our ftayj though the whole together was not equal to the quan- tity that we bought the day after our arrival. On the i ith, Mr Banks having learnt from the fef- vant whom he had hired at Batavia, that the Indians of this ifland had a town upon the fhore, at fome diftancic to the weft ward, he determined to fee it : with this view he fet out in the morning, accompanied by the Second Lieutenant, and as he had fomereafon to think that his vifit would not be agreeable to the inhabitants, he told the people whom he met, as he was advancing along the more, that he was in feaich of plants^ which indeed was CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. €6s was alfo true. In al>out two hours tliey arrived at a pLice where there were tour or five houfes, and meeting with an old ^aan, they ventured to make fomc enquiries concerning the town. He laid that it was far diftant ; but they were not to be diicouraged in rneir cntcrprife, and he, feeing them proceed in their journey, joined company, and went on with them. He attempted feveral times to lead them out of the way, hut without i'uccels ; and at length they came within fight of the houleS. The old man then entered cordially into theii: party, and conducted them into the town. The name of it is Samadang, it coniifts of about four hundred houfes, and is divided by a river of brackifli* water into two parts, one of which is called the old town and the other the new. As foon as they enrered the old town, they met feveral Indians whom they had feen at the tradinp;-place, and one of them undertook to carry tliem over to the new town, at the rate of two pence a lieadi Whien the bargain was made, two very fmall canoes were produced, in which they embarked ; the canoes being placed alongfide of each other, and held together, a precaution which was abfolutely neceflary toprevent their overfetting, the navigation was at length fafely performed, though not without Ibme difficulty ; and when they landed in the new town, the people leceived them with great friendfhip, and fhowed them the houfes of their Kings and principal people, which, are in this dillri^ : few of them however were open, for at this time the people had taken up their refidence in the rice-grounds, to defend the crop againft the birds and monkies, by which it would otherwife have been deftroyed. When their curiofity was fatisfied, they hired a laige failing boat for two roupees, four {hillings, which brought them back to the fliip time enough to dine upon one of the fmall deer, weighing only forty pounds, which had been bought the day before, and proved to be very good and favoury meat. We went on Ihore in the evening, to fee how the peo- ple who were employed in wooding and watering wtnt Vol.l.-N«?i7. 4 P on, €66 CAPTAIN COOlC'd FlliSt VOTAGt. nn, and were informsd that an axe had been flolen. Aj the paifing over this fault might encouragje the cora- miflion ofothers of the fame kind, application wasim- mediately made to the King, who after fome altercation promifed that the axe ihould be reftored in the morning; and kept his word, for it was brought to us by a man >vho pretended that the thief, being afraid of a difcovery, had privately brought it and left it at his houfe in the night. vVc continued to purthafe between two and thrrt hundred weight of turtle in a day, befides fowls anil other neceflaries ; and in the evening of the iithjiar- ing nearly completed our wood and water, Mr Banks . went afhore to take leave of his Majeily, to whom he had made feveral trifling prefents, and at parting gave him two quires of paper, which he gracioufly received. They had much convcrfation, in the coUrle of which liis Majeily enquired, why the Engliih did not touch there as they had been ufed to do. Mr Banks replied, that he fuppofcd it was becaufe they found a deficiency of turtle, of which tlicre not being enough to fupply one fhip, many could not be cxpeAed. To fupply this defedl:, lie advifed his Majefty to breed cattle, buffaloes, and {beep, a meafure which he did not feem much in- clined to adopt. Oft the 14th, we made ready to fail, having on board a good (lock of refrefhments, which we purchafed of the natives, confifting of turtle, fowl, filh, two fpecies" of deer, one as big as a (beep, the other not larger than a rabbit ; with cocoa-nuts, plantains, limes, and other vegetables. The deer however ferved only for prefent ufe, for we could feldom keep one of thcni alive more than four and twenty hours after it was on board. On our part, the trade was carried chiefly on with Spani(h dollars, th6 natives feeming to fel little value upon any thing elfe ; fo that our people^ who had a general per* miffion to trade, parted with old fliirts and other articles, which they were obliged to fubftitute for money to ^at difadvantase. In CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 66j In the morning of the 1 5th, we weighed, with a light breeze at N. li. and ftood out to fea. Java Head, from which I took my departure, Hes in latitude 6 d. 49 m. S. longitude 253 d. 12 m. W. Prince's liland, where we lay about ten days, is, in the Malay language, called Pulo Sclan ; and in the language of the inhaoitants, Fuh Paneitan, It is a finall ifland, lituated in the weftern mouth of the Streight of Sunda. It is wooily, and a very fniall part of it only has been cleared : there is no remarkable hiil upon u, yet the Englifh call the fmall eminence which is juft over the landing-place, the Pike. It was formerly much frequent- ed by tlie India fhips of many nations, but efpecially ihofe of England, which of late have forfakcn it, as it is faid, becaufe the water is bad ; and touch either at North lllanij, a fmall ifland that lies on the coaft of Sumatra, without tlic eaft entrance of the Streight, or at New Bay,which lies only a few leagues from Prince's llland, at neither of which places any confiderable quan- tity of other refrelhments can be procured. Pnnce's Ifland is, upon the whole, certainly move eligible than either of them ; and though the v»^ater is brackifh, if it is filled at the lower part of the bipok, yet higher up it will be found excellent. The lirft and fecond, and perhaps the third (hip that comes in the feafon may be tolerably fupplied with tur- tle } but thofe that come afterwards muft be conteat withi Iraall ones. Thofe that we bought were of the green kind, and at an average cod us al)out a half-penny or three farthings a pounp. We were much difappoint€4 to find them neither fat nor well flavoured ; and we im- puted it to their having been long kept in crawls or penj of brackiCh water, without food. I'he fowls are large, and we bought a dozen of them for a Spanilh dollar, which is about five pence apiece : the fmall deer coft us two pence apiece^'and the larger, of which two only were brought down, a rupee? Many kinds of fifli arc to be had here, which the natives fall by hand, and wa found them tplerably cheap. Cocoa-nuts w^ bqught at 4P 2 t^Q ,,,*j**^" 668 CAPTAIN COOK^s FIRST VOYAGE. the rate of a hundred for a dollar, if they were picked ; and if they were taken promilciioufly, one hundred and thirty, l^lantains we iound in great plenty; we pro- curea ;i1i"o i\m\c pine apples, water melons, jaccas, and pumpkins; bt'ides rire, the greater part of which wos of the iiiour.t.iin kind, that grows in dry land; yams, and ievcral other vegetables, ^t a very reafonahlc r,iro. The iidiahitan's are Javaneie, whofe Raja is Inhjft to the S dtan of Bantam. Their cuiloms are very iiini- lar to tiiofe of the Indiaiis about Batavia ; bur tlicy kem to be more jealoiiji of tljcir women, for we never Jaw any of them dining «il the time that we were thei\, except one by . liame in the woods, as Ihe was running ^way to hitle iier'clt. 'Ihey profefs the Mahometan religion, bu I believe there is not a mofque in the whole iilard : \vc were aT"iintig them during the fi\ft, • which the Turks call aV;;;w//w« which they leenied tn keep with i.reat ri}:;our, lor not ( ne of them \\(;uld touch a mrriel of victuals, or even ehew their beetle till fui;-^r'r. Their fi)od is nearly the fame as that of the B.iraviim Indians, t xcept the ad^l'tion of the nuts of the palm, called Cyi'.js circimhs^ with wh'ch, upon the cojift of New Holland, fome of our people were made fick,anJ fome. oi our hogs poifoned. Upon obU rving thelc nuts to be part of their food, we enquiretl bv what means they deprived them of their deleterious quality ; and they told us, that they firft cut them into thin flices, and dried therxi in the fun, then fteeped them infreih Water lor three months, and after- wards, preiTmg out the water, dried them in the fun a fecond time ; but we learnt that, after all, they are eatei only in times of fcarcity. When they mix them with their rice to make it go farther, ^ 1 he houfes of their town are built upon piles, or pil- lars, four or five feet above the ground : upon theie is laid a floor of bamboo canes, which are placed at feme diftance from each other, fo as to leave a free pafl'agefor tlie air from below : the walls alfo are of bamboo, which : J ' ' are. CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. 66^ arc interwoven, hiirdlewife, with fmall ftlcks, that are fallened perpendicularly to the beams which form the frame of the hiiildinjr : it has a flopinp: roqf, which is ((> well thatched with palm leaves, that neither the fun nor the rain can Hnd entrance. The ground over which this building is eroded, is an oblong fquarc. In the middle of one fide is the door, and in the middle be- tween that and 'he end oftliehoufc, towards the Icfi hand, is a wind(^vv : a partition runs out from each end towards the middle, which, if continued, w^ould divide the whole fioor in^n t vo equal parts, lofigitudinally, but they do n( »■ mt^v^r in the mi;ht and left of flie door, is divided into two rooms, like H.dls in a (lable, all open towards the paifagc from the door to the wall on the oppofite fide : in that next the door, on the left hand, the children fleep ^ that oppofite to it, on the rigb.t hand, is allotted to Gran- gers; the maOer and his wife deep in the inner room on the left hand,and that oppolire to it is the kitchen. There is no difference between f'le houfes of the poor and the rich, but in the lize ; except that tlie royal palace, and the houfe of a man, whofc name is Gundang^ the next in riches and inlluerice to the King, is walled with boards inftead of being wattled with fticks and bamboo. As the people are obliged to abandon the town, and «ive in the rice-fields at certain feafons, to fecure their crops from the birds and the monkies, they have occa- fional houfes there for their accommodation. They are exactly the fame as the houfes in the town, except that they arc fmaller, and are elevated eight or. ten feet above the ground inftead' of four. The difpofitipn of the people, as far a? we could dif- cover it, is good. They dealt with us very honeftly, except, like all other Indians, and the itinerant retailers of filh in London, they alked fometimes twice, and fomctimes thrice as much for their commodities as they would take. As what they brought to market belong- ed, in differjent proportions, to a coafiderable number of ^70 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. of the natives, and it would have been difficult to pm* chafe it in feparate lots, they found out a very eafy ex- pedient with which every one was fatisfied : they put all that was bought of one kind, as plantains, or cocoa- nuts, together, and when we had agreed for the heap, they divided the money that was paid for it, among thofe of whofe feparate party it confided, in a propor- tion correfponding witii their contributions. Some- times, indeed, they changed oiir money, giving us 240 doits, amounting to five fhiilings, for a Spanifh dollar, and ninety-fix, amounting to two lliilIing6,for a Bengal yo^ee. They all fpeak the Malay language, though they have a language of their own, different both from the Malay and the Javanefe. Their own language they call Caita Gunung^ the language of the mountains ; and they fay tl^at it is fpoken upon the mountains of Java, whence thpir tribe originally migrated, firfl to New Bay, and then to their prefent flation, being driven from their firfl fettlenient by tigers, which they found too numer^ ous to fubdue. I have already obferved, that feveral languages are fpoken by the native Javanefe, in differ" fnt parts of their ifland ; but when I fay that the lan- guage of thefe people is different from the Javanefe, I mean that it is dinerent frotn the language which \% fpoken at Samarang, a place that is diflant only one xlay's journey from the refidcnce of the emperor of Java* ^he following is a lift of correfponding words in the languages of Prince's Ifland, Java, and Malacca^ English. PkINCE*sIsLAND. TAVANE5^. Malat. A man Jalma Oong Lanang Oran Lacki Lacki ji tveman Bccang Oong Wadong Parampuwi A child Orcculatacke Lari Anack The head Hole Undaf* Capalla %'he nofe Erung Erung Edung S'hr eyes Mata Moto Mata TUtarai C^ole Cuping Cuping English. CAPTAIN COOK'3 FIRST VOYAGE* 671 English. Princf/s Island. Javanese. Malay, Vie teeth Cutock TTntu Ghigl TheMIy Beamng V/uttong Prot fhekackjde Serit Cclit Pantat The thigh Pimping Poopoo Paha The hue HuUootoor Duncul Lontour 'Tlie leg Metis Sickil Kauki J mil Cucu Cucu Cucu A hand Langan Tangan Tangan Afinget Kamo Lailgan Jan Jawing III tJiis fpecimen of the languages of places fo tiear X& each other, the names of different parts of the body are chofen, becaufe they are eafily obtained from people whofe language is utterly unknown, and becaule they are more likely to be part of the original ftamen of the language, than any other, as types of the firft obje£t'5 to which they would give names. It is very remarkaWe that the Malay, the Javancfe, and the Prince's Illand hnguage, have words, which, if not exadly fimilar to the cbrrefponding words in the language 01 the iflandg in the South Seas, are raanifeftlv derived from the lame fource, as will appear from the ibllowing table : An eye To eat To drittk To hill Alotife Rain Bamboo cane Ahreajl A bird Afifb The foot Ahbjier Yam To bury A mofckito Tofcratch Coccos roots In4aud ^outhSea. Malay. Javanese. Prince's L Matta Mata Moto Mata Maa Macan Mang?.n Einu Menum Gnumbc Matte Matte Matte Outou Coutou Euwa Udian Udan Owhe Aw6 Eu Soufou Soufou Mannu Manna Matmuck Eyca lean Iwa •;' Tapao TapaiiSi Tooura Udang Uran^ Eufwhe Ubi Urve Etannou Tannam TandouT Enammou Gnaramucl I Hearu Garni Gam Taro TaHaa Tal«9 LTu Utan T €)2 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGfi; This rimilitudc is particularly remarkable in the words cxpreffing number, ^yhich at tirft iight Teems to be no inconliderable proof that the fciencc at leall of thefe difl ferent people has a common root. But the names of numbers in the ifland of Madagafcar, are in fome in- ftances fimilartoall thefc, which is a problem ftill more ciifRcult to folve. That the names or numbers, in par- ticular, are in a manner common to all thefe countries, will appear from the followhig comparative table, which Mr Banks drew up, with the aflilUnce of a negro flave, born at Madagafcar, who was oh board an Englifh fhip at Batavia, and fent to him to gratify his curiofity on this fubjed:* EngliHi. S.Seal/ijnds. Mulap ^avanefe. Princess I. Jlladn^afcar. One Tahie Satou Twi? Rua Dua Thra Torou Ti^a Four Haa Anipat Five Rcina Lima Six Wheney Annam Seven Hetu Tudju Eight ^ Waru Delapau Nine Iva Sembilan ^jTen Ahouroa Sapoulou Sigl Hegie Ifle Lorou Dua Rua Tullu Tollu Tellou Pappat Opat EfFats Limo Limah Linii Nun nam Guhnap Ene Petu Tudju Titou Wolo Delapart Walon Songo Salapan OlVl Sapoulou Sapoulou Tourou In the language of Madagafcar, there are other words fimilar to words of the fame import in the Malay. The nofe in Malay is called-£ri/wjf, at Madagafcar, Ourou; Lida^ th^ tongue, is Lala ; Tatigan^ the hand, is ^an^; and Tamia^ the ground, is Taan, From the llmilitude between the language of the Eaftern Indies, and the illands of the South Sea, con- je£tures may be formed with refpe(Sl: to the peopling thofe countries, which cannot eafity be referred to Ma- dagafcar. The inhabitants of Java and Madagafcar ap- pear to be a different race ; the Javanefe is of an olive complexion, and has long hair ; the native of Madagaf- car is black, and his head is not covered with hair, but wool; CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. <73 wool ; and yet, perhaps, this will not conclude againft their having cominon anceftors ib ftrongly as at firll ap- pears. It does not feeni lei's difRcult to account for the Dirfonsrl difFerence between a native of England and France, as an efTciSl of mere local fituation, than for the difference between the natives of Java and Madagafcar ; yet it has never been fuppofed, that England and France were not peopled from common anccftors. If two na- tives of England marry in their own country, and after- wards remove to our lettlements in the Weft Indies, the children that are conceived and borri there will have the complexion and caft of countenance that diftinguifh the Creole ; if they return, the children conceived and born afterwards, will have no fuch charadleriftics. If it he faid that the mother*s mind being imprefied with, different external objcds, imprefles conefponding fea- tures and complexion upon the child during her preg- nancy, it will be as difficult to refer the effc£b into this caufe, upon mere phyfical principles, as into the other ; for it can no more be fhewn how a mere idea, conceived in the mother's imagination, can change the corporeal form of her infant, than how its form can be changed by mere local fituation. We know that people within the fmall circle of Great Britain and Ireland, who are born at the diftance of two or three hundred miles from cich other, will be diftinguifhed by the Scotch faqe, the Welch face, and the Irilh face ; may we not then rea- fonably fuppofe, that there are in nature qualities which ad pov/crfully as efiicient caufcs, and yet are not cog- nizable by any of the five nicxles of perception v»'hich we call lenfes ? A deaf man, who lees th^i Itring of a harpfichord vibrate, when a correfponding tone is pro- duced by blowing into a flute at a dlRance, will fee an effed of which he can no more conceive the caufe to exift in the blowing air into the flute, than we can con- ceive the caufe of the perlbnal difference of the various inhabitants of the globe to exift in mere local lituation ; Lorcan he any more fdrm an idea of the caufe itielf, in one cafe, than we can in the other : v.'hat !;appens to Vol. I.— N<» jr. 4 0^ • ^^ jf iQlt) ^ <574 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. him then, in confequence of luving but four fenfes in- ftead of five, may, with rcfped to many phaenomcna of nature, happen to us, in confequence of having but five fenfes inftead of fix, or any greater number. Poffibly, however, the learning of ancient iEgypt might run jn two courfes, one through Africa, and the other through Ada, diiTeminatlng the fame words in each, efpecially tern^s of number, which might thus become part of the language of people who never had any communication wiih each other. We now made the befl: of our way for the Cape of Good Hope^ but the feeds of difeafe which we had re- ceived at Batavia began to appear with the mofl threat- ening fymptoms in dyfentcries and flow fevers. Left the water which we had taken in at Prince's I (land fhouW have had any fhare in our ficknefs, we purified it with lime, and wc wafhed all parts of the fnip be- tween decks with vinegar, as a remedy againfl infedion. Mr Banks was among the fick, and for fome time there was no hope of , his life. We were very foon in a moft deplorable lituadon ; the fhip was nothing better than an hofpital, in which thofe that were able to go about, were too few to attend the fick, who were confined to their hammocks ; and we had almort every night a dead body to commit to the fea. In the courfe of about fix weeks, we buried Mr Sporing, a gentleman who was in Mr Banks's retinue, Mr Parkinfon, his natural hiftory painter, Mr Green the aflronomer, the boatfwain, the carpenter and his mate, Mr Monkhouffe the midfliip-, man, who had fpthered the fhip after fhe had been ilranded on the coaft of New Holland, our old jolly fa1I-D|iaker and his afTiftant, the (liip's cook, the corporal of the marines, two of the carpenter's crew, a midship- man, and nine feanlen ; in all three and twenty perfons, befides the feven that we buried at Batavia. Out ir fenfes in- >ha2nomena having but iber. znt iEgypt ca, and the words ia night thus never had le Cape of ve held re- loft threat- 2rs. Left :e's Ifland 'epurified ^ uiip be- infedion. :ime there in a moft etter than go about, 'nfined to ht a dead about fix liowasin il hiftory s^ain, the midfliip- Jad been Did jolly Gorporal nidihip- perlbns, Otir CAPTAIN COjOK's FIRST VOYAGE. $7^ Our Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope ; fomc Remarks on the Run from Java Head to that Place ; a Defcriptlon of the Cape^ and of Saint Helena ; with fomc Account of the Hottentots^ and the Return of the Ship to England^ - ON Friday the 15th of March, about ten o'clock in the morning, we anchored oft the Cape of Good Hope, in feven fathom with an ouzy bottom. The weft point of the bay called the Lion's Tail, bore W.N.W. and the caftle S.W. diftant about a mile and a half. I immedi- ately waited upon the Governor, who told me that I fliould have every thing the country affordt d. My firft care was to provide a proper place afhore for the fick, Vv'hich ViTcre not a few ; and a houfe was foon found, where it was agreed they fliould be lodged and boarded at the rate of two {hillings a head per day. Our nm from Java Head, to this place, afforded very few fubje^ts of remark that can be of ul'e to future navi- gators ; fuch as occurred, however, I fhall fet down, Wc had left Java Head eleven days before we got the general fouth eaft trade wind, during which time, we did not advance above 5 d. to the fouth v>^ard, and 3 d. to the weft) having variable light airs, interrupted by calms, with fultry weather, and an unwholelbme air, occafioned probably by the load of vapours which the eaftern trade wind, and wefterly monfoons, bring into thefe latitudes, both which blow in thefe feas at the time of year when we happened to be there. The eaft- crly wind prevails as far as i 3 or 1 2 d. S. and the weft- erly as far as 6 or 8 d. in the intermediate fpace the winds are variable, and the air, I believe, always un- wholefome; it certainly aggravated the difeafes which 4 0^2 wc 6^6 CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. we brought with us from Batavia, and particularly the flux, which was not in the leaft degree checked by any medicine, fo that whoever was feized with it, confider- ed himfelf as a dead man ; but we had no fooner got into the trade wind, than we began to feci its falutary efFefls : we buried, indeed, feveral of our people after- wards, but they were fuch as had been taken on board in a ftate fo low and feeble that there was fcarcely a pof- fibility of their recovery. At firft we fufpcdled that this dreadful diforder might have been brought upon us by the water that we took on board at Prince's Ifland, or even by the turtle tliat we bought there ; but there is not the leaft reafon to believe that this fufpicion was well grounded, for all tlie flups that came from JBatavia at the fame feafon, fufFered in the fame degree, and fome of them even more feverely, though none of them touched at Prince's Ifland in their way. A few days after we left Java, we faw boobies about the Ihip for feveral nights fucceflively, and as thefe birds are known to rooft every night ot\ fliore, we thought them an indication that lome if}and was not far dliiant; periuips it might be the ifland of Selam, which, in dit- lerent charts, is very differently laid dowi;i both in name and fituation. The variation of the compafs off the weft coaft of }[ava is about 3 d. W. and fo it continued without any enfible variation, in the common track of fhips to the longitude of 288 d. W. latitude 22 8, after which it in- creafed apace, fo that in longitude 295 d. latitude 23 d, the variation was 10 d. 20 m.W. in leven degrees more of longitude, and one of latitude,it increafed two degrees; in the fame fpace, farther to the weft, it increafed five degrees : in latitude 28 d. longitude JH^* i^ ^'^^ ^4 ^* 20 m. in latitude 29 d. longitude 317 d. it was 26 d. 10 m. and was then ftationary for the Ips^ce of about ten degrees farther to the weft ; but in latitude 3A d. longi- tude 223 ^* ^^ obferved it twice to be 28^0. W. and this was its greateft variation, for in latitude ^5^ ^* longitude 337 d. it was 24 d. and continued gradually *■•■■• ' ^ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 477 to decreafe ; fo that ofTCape Angiiillas it was 22 d. 30m, and in Table Bay 20 d. 30 m. \V. As to currentfi it did not appear that they were at all confiderable, till w^ came within a little dilhnce of the meridian of Madagafcar ; for after we had made 52 cL of longitude from Java Head, we found, by obfervation, that our error in longitude was only two degrees, and it WM the fame when we had made only nineteen. This error might be owing partly to a current fetting to the weftward, partly to our not making proper allowances for the fitting of the fea before which we run, and per- haps to an error in the afibmed lonj;itude of Java Head. If that longitude is erroneous, the error nudl be impuicd to the impcrfedlion of the charts of which 1 made ufeiii reducing the longitude from Batavia, to that place, fcr there can be no doubt hut that the longitude of Batavia is well determined. After we had pafled the longitude of 307 d. the effects of the wefter!/ currents began to be confiderable ; for in three days, our error in longitude was I d. 5 m. the velocity of the current kept increafmg, as we proceeded to the wcllward, in fo much that for five days fucceflively after we made tlie land, we were driven to the S. W. or S. W. by W. not lefs than twenty leagues a day ; and this continued till we were within lixty or fevcnty leagues of the Cape, where the current fet fometimes one way, and fometimes the other, though inclining rather to the weftward. After the boobies had left us, we faw no more birds till we got nearly abreall of Madagalcar, where, in lati- tude 27 i d. S. we faw an albatrofs, and after that time we faw them every day in great numbers, with birds of feveral other forts, particularly one about as big as a duck, of a very dark brown colour, with a yellowifli bill. Thele birds became more numerous as we approached the fiiorc, and as foon as we got into foundings we faw gan- nets, which we continued to fee as long as we were «pon the bank which ftretches ofFAnguiilas to thediftance ot forty leagues, and extends along the Ihore to the laftward, from Cape F^lfe, accordipg to fome diarts. 6-1$ CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. one hundred and fixty leagues. The real extent of this bank is not exacftly known ; it is however ufeful as a diredion to (hipping when to haul in, in order to make the land. Wliile we lay here, the Houghton Indiaman failed for England, who, during her ftay in India, loft by lick- xiefs between thirty and forty nr«en; and when me left the Cape had many in a helplefs condition with the fcurvy. Other fhips fuflered in the lame proportion, ^ho had been little more than twelve months abfent f:om England ; our fuffcrings therefore were compa- ratively light, confidering that we had been abfent near three times as long. Having lain here to recover the fick, procure ftores, and perform feveral necefTary operations upon tHe (hip and rigging, till the 13th of April, I then got all the lick on board, feveral ot whom were ttill in a dangerous ^laie, and having taken leave of the Governor, I un- moored the next morning, and got ready to fail. The Cape of Good Hope has been fo often defcribed, and is fo well knowm in Europe, thai I (hall mention only a few particulars, which in other relations are oraii- led or mifreprefented. Notwithftanding all that has been faid to the contrary, no country that we faw during the voyage makes a more forlorn appearance, or is in reality a more iierile ticfert. The land over the Cape, which conftitutes the peninfula fornmed by Table Bay on the north, and Falle J>ay on thb fouth, confifts of iiigh mountains, altogether naked and defolaie : the land behind thefe to the eaft, which may be confidered as the ifthmus, is a plain of vaft extent, confiding almoft wholly of a light kind of Tea fand, which produces nothing but heath, and is utterly incapable of cultivation. All the fpots that will admit of improvement, which together bear about the fame proportion to the whole as one to one ihoufand, are laid out in vineyards, orchards, and kitchen grounds^ and moft of thefe little fpots lie at a confiderable dilbnc* , , froiB CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 679 from each other. There is alfo the greaten: reafoa to believe, that in the interior parts of this country, that which is capable of cultivation does not bear a greater proportion to that wliich is iiiccrrigibly barren ; for tiie Dutch told us, that they had fetdements eight and twenty days journey up the country, a diftance equal to at ieall nine hundred miles, from which they bring provifioMs to the Cape by land ; fo that it fecms reafbnable to con- dude that provifions are not to be had within a left compafs. While we were at the Cape, a farmer came thither from the country, at the diftance of fifteen days I journey, and brought his young children with him. I We were furprifed at this, and afkcd him, if it would not have been better to have left them with liis next neighbour : Neighbour ! faid the man, I have no neigh- bour within lefs than five days journey of me. Surely the country muft be deplorably barren in which there, who fettle only to raife provifions for a market, are dif- perfed at fuch diftanccs from each other. That the country is every where deftitute of wood appears to demonftration ; for timber and planks are imported from Batavia, and fuel is almoft as dear as food. We |faw no tree, except in plantations near the town, that was iix feet high ; and the ftems, that were not thicker I than a man's thumb, had roots as thick as an arm or a- leg, fuch is the influence of the winds here to the difad- vantage of vegetation, felting the fterilit/ of the foil out j of the queftion. The only town which the Dutch have built here is, I from its fituation, called Cape Town, and confifts of about a thoufand houfes, neady built of brick, and ia [general whited on the outlide ; they are however cover- ed only with thatch, for the violence of the fouth eaft winds would render any other roof inconvenient and dangrerous. The ftrectsare broad and commodious, all crofling each other at right angles. In the principal ftreet there is a canal, on each fide of which is planted ^ row of oaks that have flouriftied tolerably well, and {yield an agreeable ihade : there is a canal in one Qtbec part 6Sy CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYACS. part of the town, but the flope of the ground iu th? courfe of both is fo great, that they are furniihed with floodgates, or locks, at intervals ot little more than tifty yards. A mucli greater proportion of the inhabitants are Dutch in this place than at Batavia ; as the town is fup^ ported principally bv entertaining ftrangers, and fupply. in^ them with ncceltaries, every man, to a certain degree, imitates the manners and cuftoms of the nation with which he is cliiefly concerned. The ladies, however, are fo faithful to the mode of their country, that not oni of them will ftir without a chaudpied or cliaufl'et, which is carried by a fcrvant that it may be ready to place un- der her feet whenever llie ihall fit down. This prac- tice is the more remarkable, as very few of thefe chaiif- fets have fire in them, which, indeed, the climate reii- cSersunneceffary. The women in general are very handfome ; they have fine clear fkins, and a bloom of colour that indicates a purity of conftitution, and high health. They make the heft wives in the world, both as millrefles of a fami- ly and mothers ; and there is I'carcely a houfe that docs - not fwarm with children. The air is falutary in a high degree ; fo that thofe who bring dlfeafes hither from Europe, generally re- cover perfedt health in a fliort time ; but the dileafei that are brought from India are not (o certainly cured. Notv'ithftanding the natural fterility of the clinLitCv indurtry has fupplied this place with all the neceffaries, and evrn the luxuries of life in the greateft profuiion. The beef and mutton are excellent, though the cattle and fheep are natives of the country ; the cattle arc lighter than ours, more neatly made, and have horib that fpread to a much wider extent. The fheep are clothea with a fubftance between wool and hair, and have tails of an enormous fize ; we faw fome that weighed twelve pounds, and were told that there were xpany much larger. Good butter is made of the mili: ^ ttic cows, but xhs. chcefe is very much infsricr to cur CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 6% I own; Here are goats, but they are never eaten, hog9> and a variety of poultry. Hares are alio found here, exadly like thofe of Europe ; antelopes of many kinds, quails of two forts, and bnflards, which are well flavour- ed, but not juicyi The fields produce European wheat and barlev, and the gardens European vegetables, and fmit of all kinds, befides plantainsj guavas, jambu, and foine other Indian fruits, but thefe are not in perfedion ; the plantains in particular, are Very bad, and the guavas no larger than goofeberricsi The vineyards alio pro- duce \yine of various fortSj but not equal to ilitAc of Europe, except the Conftantia, which is made genuine only at one vineyard, about ten miles diflant from the town; There is another vineyard near it, where wine is made that is called by the fame name, but i8 generally inferior. ^ . • The common methp^ iri which (\rartgel*s live here, ia to lodge and board with fome of the inhabitantSj many of whofe houfes are always open for their reception i the rates are from live fliillings to two (hillings a day^ for which all neceflarics are found* Coaches may be hired at four and twenty (hillings a day, and horfes at fix (liillings ; biit the country afFonls veiy little temptation to ufc them. There are no piiblic entertainments ; and thofe that are private, to which ftrangers of the rank o^ Gendemen are always admitted, were fufpended while we were there by the breaking out of the meafles. At the farther end of the High ftreet, the Company have a garden, which is about two thirds of an Engli;!! mile long j the whole is divided by walks that interfedt each other at rigiit angles, and are planted with oaksj that are dipt into wall hedges, except in the center walk- where they are fufFered to grow to their full fize, and afford an agreeable (hade, which is the more welcome, as, except the plantations by the fides of the two ^nals^ there is not a (ingle tree that would fervc even for a (liephcrd's bu(h, within many miles of the town. The greater part of this garden is kitchen ground : but two (mail fquares are allotted to botanical plants, which did Vohl.— N*i8. ,1^ 4 R not ft8a CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE- not appear to be lb namercus by one half as they were when "Oldenland wrote his catalogue. At the farther end of the garden is a menagerie, in which there are many birds and beads that are never ken in Europe j particularly a beaft called by the Hottentots Coe Doe, which is as large as a horfe, and has the fine fpiral horns which are fometimes fecn in private and public collec- tions of curiotities. Of the natives of this country, we could learn but little except from report; for there were none of their habitations, where alone they retain their original cuf- toms, within lefs than four days joutney from the town; thofe that we faw at the Cape were all fervants to Dutch farmers, whofe cattle thev take care of, and arc employ- ed in other drudgery of the meaneft kind. Thefe arc in general of a dim make, and rather lean than plump, but remarkably (Irong, nimble, and adlive. Tlieir fize is nearly the fam^; with that of Europeans, and we faw fome thai: were fix feet high : their eyes are dull and without expreffion : their {kins are of the colour of loot, but that is in a great meafure caufcd by the dirt, which is fo wrought into the grain that it cannot be diftinguifhed from complexion; for I believe they never wafh any part of their bodier- Their hair curb drongly, not like a negro's, but falls in ringlets about feven or eight inches long. Their clothing confirms of' a Ikin, genei'ally that of a (heep, thr<)fwnw over iheir flioulders ; befides which, (he men wear a fmall pouch in the middle of the waift, and the women, a broad leather flap, boih which fiang from a girdle or belt that Is adorned with beads ?.nd fmajl pieces of copper. Both men and women wear necklaces, and fometimes brace- lets, of beads ; and the women wear rings of hard leather round their ancles, to defend them from th^ thorns, with whicl? their country every where abounds : fome of Ihem have a fandal, made of wood or b^rk ; but the greater part of them are unfhocj. To a European, their language appears to be fcarcely articulate ; befides which it is didinguinied by a very remark- they were the farther 1 there are ti Europe* s Coe Doe^ 5iral horns >lie collec- learn but le of their iginal cuf- thetown; s to Dutch 5 employ, Thefe arc in plump, riieir lize d we faw dull and colour of r the dirt, :annot be eve they hair curls CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 6S3 remarkable fingularity. At very frequent intervals, while they are fpeaking, they cluck with the tongue againft the roof of the mouth : thefe clucks do not ap- pear, to have any meaning, but rather to divide what they fay into fenten es. Mod of thefe Hottentots fpeak Dutch, without any peculiarity of pronunciation. They are all modeft, even to llieepifhnefs ; for it was not without the greateft difficulty that we could perfuadc any of them to dance, or even to fpeak in their own language to each other, in our prefence. We did how^ ever both fee them dance, and hear them iing ; their dances are bv turns active and flug^ifh to cxcefs : fome- times confiiiing of quick and violent motions, with ftrange diftortions of the body, and unnatural leaps backwards and forwards, with the legs eroding each other ; and being fometimes fo fpiritlefs that the dancer only ftrikes the ground lirft with one foot and then with the other, neither changing place nor moving any other part of his body : the fongs alfo are alternately to quick and flow movements, in the fame extremes as the dance. We made many enquiries concerning thefe people of the Dutch, and the following parties )arii are related upon the credit of their report. Within the boundaries of the Dutch fetdements there are feveral nations of thefe people, who very much differ from each other in their cuftoms and manner of life ; all however are friendly and peaceable, except one clan that is fettled to the eaflward, which the Dutch call Bofih men^ and thefs live entirely by plunder, or rather by theft ; for they never attack tneir neighbours openly, but fteal the cattle privately in the night. They arc armed however to defend themfelves, if they happen to be d^tedted, vTith lances or affagays, and arrows, which they know how to poifon by various ways, fome with the juice of herbs, and fome with the venom of the fer- pent called Cobra di Cafelo ; in the hands of thefe people ft ftone alfo is a very formidable weapon, for they can throw it with fuch rorce and exad lefs as .eptatedly to lu( a dollar ^t the diilance of a hundred paces^ 4 p. 3 Ai 684 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. • As a defence againfl: thefe freebooters, the other In- dians trahi up bulls, which they place round their towns in the night, and which, upon the approach of either man or beaft, will affemble and oppofe them, till they hear the voice of their mafters encouraging them to fight, or calling them off, which they obey with the fame docility as a dog. Soffie nations have the art of melting and preparing copper, which is found among them, probably native j and of this they make broad plates, which they wear as ornaments upon their foreheads. Some of them alfo know how to harden bits of iron, which rhey procure from the Dutch, and form into, knives, fo as to give them temper fupiirlor to that of any thev can buy. The chiefs, many of whom are pofiHiors of very nu- merous herds of cattle, are generali r . in the ikins of lions, tygers, or zebras, to which they add fringes, and other ornariients, in a very good tafte. Both fexes frequently anoint the body with greafe, but neyer ufe any that is rancid or foetid, iffrelh can bchao. Mutton fuet and butter are generally ufed for this purpofe ; but- ter is preferred, vv^hich they make by (baking the nwlk in a bag niade of the fkin of fome beaft. Wc were told that the prieft certainly gives the nup- tial benediction by fprinkling the bride and bridegroom , with his urine. Btit the Dutch univcrfaHy declared that the women never wrapped the entrails of Ihee; r^u id their legs, as they have been faidto do, and aft -- ii\^>i make them part of their food. Semicaftration wa^ ? lo abfolutely denied to be general ; but it was acknow- ledged that fome among the particular nation which knew how to melt copper had fuffered that operation, who were faid to he tne beft warriors, and particularly to excel in the art of thro\yihg ftoncs. We \yere very defirous to determine th? gre^t ques- tion among natural hiftorians, whether the ^'^ :-aien, of this country have or have not that flcfhy flap or api on v/hich has been called the Sims pudoris^ and what we learnt I fhall relate. Many of the Dotch and Malays, -' wnp CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. 6S^ low- Ihich don, [arly ef. of on we te vho faid they had received favours from Hottentots iromen, pofitively denied its exiltence ; but a phyft- tian of the place declared that he had cured many lundreds of venereal complaints, and never faw one mhoqt two flefhy, or rather fkinny appendages, pro- keding from the upper part of the Labia^ in appearance [omewhat refembling the teats of a cow, but flat ; they Vmg down, he faid, before the Pudendum^ and weie in Bifferent fubjedts of different lengths, in fome not more lanhalf an inch, in others three or four inches : thefe k imagined to he what fonrie writers have exaggerated titoa nap, or apron, hanging down from the bottonfi ffthe abdomen, of fufficient extent to retn^^t an artili- al covering of the neighboqrin^ parts unnecefTary. Thus much for the country, its produdlions, and in- labitants. The bay is large, fafe, and commodious ; ijt les open indeed to the north-weft winds, but they fel- jom blow hard ; yet as they fometimes fend in a great a, the (hips moor N. E. and S. W. fo as to have an ;en hawfer with north- weft winds : the fouth-eaft rinds blow frequently with great violence, but as this pdion is right out of the hay, they are not dangerous. jlear the tov i a wharf of wood is run out to a proper iilance for the convenience pf landing and Ihipping bods. To this wharf water is conveyed in pipes, rroni pch feveral boats niay fill water at the iame time j id feveral large boats or hoys are kept by the Com- bny to carry %re8 and provifions to and froni the kipping in the narbour. The bay is defended by a luare lort, fituated clofe to the beach on the eaft fide of [ctown, and by feveral outworks and batteries ex- Wing along the fhore, as well on this fide of the town the other ;T)ut ^hey are fo fituated as to be cannonaded r fliipping, and are in a manner defencelefs againft an |»cmy of any force by land. The garrifon confrfts of ght hundred regular troops, b^fides militia of the l^ntry, in which is comprehended every man able to [a ani\8, They have contrivances to alarn;^ the whole 495 CAPTAIN COOK'8 FIRST VOYAGE. coutUry by fignals in a very fliort time, and the militiil is to repair immediately to the town. I The rrench at Mauritius are fupplicd from this place! ■with falted beef, bifcuit floor, and wine *. the provi.! Cons for which the French contradled this year ere) 500,000 lb. weight of fait beef, Aoo,ooolb. of flourJ 400,000 lb. of bifcuit, and 1,200 leagcrs of wine. 1 In the morning of the 14th, we weighed and (loodl out of the bay ; and at five in the evening anchored under Penquin, or Robin Ifland : we lay here all night] and as I could not fail in the morning for want of wind 1 lent a boat to the ifland for a few trifling artick M'hich we h^d forgot to take in at the Cape. But ; foon as the boat came near the (hore, the Dutch haile her, and warned the people not to land at their perilj lyringing down at the fame time fix men armed witlj mufquets, who paraded upon the beach. The ofilc who commanded the boat not thinking it worth whili to rifk the lives of the people on board for the fake of ^ few cabbages, which were all we wanted, returned i the (hip. At firfl we were at a lofs to account for oa lepulfc, but we afterwards recolleded, that to this if the Dutch at the Cape banifhed fuch criminals as are no thought worthy of. death, for a certain number of yean proportioned to the oflTence ; and employ them as ilavfl HI digging lime-ftone, which, though fcarce upon ^ continent, is in pknty here : and that a Daoim ftip which by ficknefs had loft great part of her crew, had been refufed afliilance at the Cap^ came dowQ this ifland, and fending her boat aihore, fecured tli guard, aftd took on board as many of the criminals ; 5ie thought proper to navigate her home : we condu iicd, therefore, that the Dutch, to prevent the refcuei their criminals in time to conie, had given order 1 their people here to fuflfer ao boat of any foreign na' to come afliore. . On the 2 5;th, at three' o'clock in the afternoon, weighed, with a light breeze at S. E. and put to f^ AboMt an hour afterwards, wc loft our matter,^ Rot CAPTAIN C0OK'& FIRST VOYAGE. 6Zf tobeit Mollineux, a young man of good parts, but un- Ijiappily given up to intemperance, which brought on Idilorders that put an end to his life. We proceeded in our voyage homeward without any Iremarkahle incident ; and m the morning of the 29tb, Iwe crofled our firrt meridian, having circumnavigated the globe in tlie direction from eaft to weft, and confe- quently loft a day, for which we made an allowance at llJatavia. At day-break, on the ift of May, we faw the ifland |of St Helena ; and at noon, we anchored in the roatl before James's fort. We ttaid here till the 4th, to refrefh, and Mr Banks improved the time in taking the complete circuit of the ifland, and vifiting th€ moft remarkable place* upon it. It is fituated as it were in the middle of the vaft At- bntic ocean, being four hundred leagues diftant from the coaft of Africa, and fix hundred from that of Amc- jiica. It is the fummit of an immenfe mountain riling out of the fea, which, at a little diftance all round it, 13 of an unfathomable depth, and is no more than twelve j leagues long, and fix broad. The feat of volcanoes baa, without exception, becrt I found to be the higheft part of the countries in whicli they are found. Mtna. and VeCuvius have no land higher than themfelve», in their neighbourhood •, Hecla ijthe higheft hill in Iceland ; volcanoes are frequent ia, the lugheft part of the Andes in South America ; and the pike ofXAerifFe is known to be the covering of fiibterraneous fire : thefe are ftill burning, but there are innumerable other mounttins which bear evident marks of fire that is now extindt, and has been fo from the time of our earlieft traditions: among thefe is Saint Helena, where the inequalities of the ground, in its external furface, are manifeftly the effed of the fmking of the earth, for the oppofite ridges, though feparated always by deep, and ibmetimefi by broad vallies, are ex- «8 CAPTAIN COOK'S flkfiT VO^AOt. a£lly fimilar both in appearance and direction ; and that the unking of the earth in thefe partvS was car led by fub. terraneous fire, is ccjually manifeft from the Hones, for fome of them, efpecially thofe in the bottom of the val- lies, are burnt almoft to a cinder : in fome there are fmail bubbles, iike thofe that are {ccn in glafs which has been urged almoft to fufion, and fome, though at firft fight they do not appear to have been expofed to the adion of great heat, will be found, upon a clofer infpcAion, to contain fmall pieces of extraneous bodies^ particular- ly mundick, which have yielded to the power of fire, tnough it was not fufficient to alter the appearance of the ftone which contained them. It appeared, as we approached it on the windward fide, liive a rude heap of rocks, bounded by precipices of amazing height,*ana confifling of a kind of half friable ftone, which fhows not the Teaft fign of vegetation ; nor is it more promifing upon a nearer view : in failing along the (hore» we came fo near the huge cliffs, that they feCmed to over-hang the ihip, and the tremendous efFedl of their giving way, made us almoft fear the event : at length we opened a valley, called Chappel Valley, which refemblcs a large trench ; and in this valley we difcovered the town. The bottom of it is (lightly covered with herbage, buc the (ides are as naked as the cliffs that are next the fea. Such is the firft appearance of the ifland in its prefent cultivated ftate, and the firft hills muft be paiTed before the vallies look ^reen, or the country difplays any other marks of fer- tility.- The town (lands juft by the fea fide, and the far greater part of the boufes are iH built ; the church, which originally was a mean ftrufture, is in ruins, and the ^arket-houfe is nearly in the feme condidon* The white inhabitants are all Englifh, who, as they are not permitted by the Eaft India Company, to whom the ifland belongs, to carry on any trade or commerce on their own account, fubftft wholly by fupplying fuch Aiips as touch at the place with refreihments, which, % how mdtkt byfulv nes, for the val- ,rc fmail las been irft fight 2 adion pcdlion, rticular- ■ of fire; rancc of indward i pices of If friable ;etation ; m failing ifFs, that nendous fear the Chappel i in this of it is iS naked the firft td ftate, lies look [soffer- ithe far ^, which md the las they whom imerce ig fuch Iwhich, how- CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. ^&9 however, they do not provide in proportion to the fer- tility of the Ibil, and the temperament of the climate, which would enable them, by cultivation, to produce all the fruits and vegetables both of Europe and India. This ifland, indeed, fmall as it is, enjoys the advantages of different climates, for the cabbage trees which grov7 upon the higheft ridges, can by no art be cultivated up- on the ridges next below, where the red wood and gum wood both fiouriQi, which will not grow upon the ridges above, and neither of the three are ro be found in the vallies, which, in general, are covered with European plants, and the more common ones of India. Here are a few horfes, but they are kept only for the faddle, fo that all labour is performed by flaves ; nor are they furnifhed with any of the various machines which art has invented to facilitate their tafk. The ground is not every where too fteep for a cart, and where it is, the wheelbarrow might be ufed with great advantage, yet there is no wheelbarrow in the whole ifland ; eivery thing is conveyed from place to place by the flaves, and they are not fumifliea even with the fimple convenience of a porter'^ knot, but carry their burden upon their heads. They are, indeed, very nu- merous, and arc brought froni almoft every part of the world, but they appeared to be a miferable race, worn. out pardy by exceffive labour, and partly by ill ufage, of which they frequently complained ; and I am forry to fay, that inflances of wiinton cruelty are much more frequent among my countrymen here, than among the Dutch, who are, and perhaps not without reafon, ge- nerally reproached with wan^ of humanity at Batavia and the Gape. Among the native produds of this ifland, which are not numerous, mufl be reckoned ebony, though the trees are now nearly extin^, and are not remembered to have been plentiful : pieces of the wood are frequently found in the vallies, of a fine black colour, and a hard- nefs almoft equal to iron: thefe pieces, however, are always fo (hort and crocked, that no life can be made Vol.I.~-N°i8. 4S of 6^0 CAPTAIN COOK'S FIRST VOYAGE. of them. Whether the tree is the fame with that whitfi produces ebony upon the ifle of Bourbon, or the iflands adjacent, is not known, as the French have not yet pub- Jilhed any account of it. There are but few infeds in this place, but there is a fpecies of fnail found upon the tops of the higheft ridgei», ^vhich probably has been there iince the original crea- tion of their kind, at the beginning of the world, h is indeed very difficult to conceive how any thing which was not depofited here at its creation, or brought hither by the diligence of man, could find its way to a place lo fevered from the reft of the world, by feas of immenle extent, except the hypothefis that has been mentioned on another occafion be adopted, and this rock be fup- pofed to have been left behmd, when a large tradt cf country, of which it was part, i'ubiided by fome con« vuHlon of nature, and was fwallcwed up in the ocean. At one o'clock in the afternoon, of the 4th of May, we weighed and ftood out of the Road, in company with the Portland man of war, and twelve fail of India- men. We continued to fail in company with the fleet, till the loth in the moi:ning, when, perceiving that we fail- ed much heavier than any other (hip, and thinking it for that reafon probable that the Portland would get home before us, I made the fignal to fpeak with her, upon which Captain Elliot himfelf came on board, and I delivered to him a letter for the Admiralty, with a box, containing the common log books of the fhip, and the journals or fome of the officers. We continued in company, however, till the 2,3d in the morning, and then there was not one of the fliipsin fight. About one o'clock in the afternoon, died our Firfl Lieutenant Mr Hicks, and in the evening we coiti' mitted his body to the fea, with the ufual ceremonies. The difeafe of which he died, was a confumption, and as he was not free from it when ^e failed from England, 1 it may truly be faid that he was dying during the whole voyage, though his decline was very gradual till wc CAPTAIN C00K*8 FIRST VOYAGE. (Igt eame to Batavia : the next day, I gave Mr Charles Clerk an order to ad as Lieutenant in his room, a young man who was extremely well qualified for that ftation. Our rigging and fails were now become fo bad, that fomething was giving way every day. We continued our courfe, however, in fafety till the i oth of June, when land, which proved to be the Lizard, was dilcovered by Nicholas Young, the fame boy that firft faw New Zea- land ; on the i ith we ran up the channel, at fix in the morning of the 1 2th we pafled Beachy Head, at noon we were abreaft of Dover, and about three came to an anchor in the Downs, and went aihore at Deal. Whoever has carefully read, and duly confidered the wonderful protedlion of this (hip, in cales of danger the mofc imminent and aftoniOiing, particularly when erw circled in the wide ocean with rocks of coral, her (heath- m beaten off, her falfe keel floating by her fide, and a hole in her bottom, will naturally turn his thoughts with adoration to that Divine Being, whofe mercies arc over ail his works ! ^ND OF THE FIRST VOTAGE. ( Ti €a •t ■-.- . ,. •f.r CAFTAIN COOK'S SECOND V r A G E, ..'•."ij.. Commenced in 1772, and finifhed in I775t IN BIS majesty's SHIPS The resolution and ADVENTURE, INCLUDING Cj//. Fumeauk^s Journal of his Proceedings in the Adventure^ During the Separation of the two Ships. ^ N T R o D u c T , ACTION. ^ Gcvernmen, for the Ser^ic^Z^r '' ^'"'^'f'^ iurmaux •'Ppoinled—V.au.n- ^'^"P'"'"" Cook and r Was appoinfe,! ,„ ft 'November, 1-7-7, r" . r* Capt"iC&\h° had been SecoS'?-''"' ^""^ 'he Adventure -n: '^^ V^^^fed to the .„™'^"''"' venture eiSvonf''''; °«<=e« Sd°?^ ''"ndred and ,^?P/ain, rK 1" r„ ^" '''^ former tmerr "l" ^^^ I ickerreii) ^Jl ' • Cooper, Qiaries rU? 9°°*^ "^^ ^'rpenter; Rob^te^^rey, boatfwl'-. ifeS,^'* "^ was lieutenant of the JUarines, CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 695 marines, under whom were one ferjeanf, two corporals, one drummer and fifteen privates. Tlie reft of the crew confifted of three mafter*s mates, fi?C midlhipmen, two furgeon's mates, one captain's clerk, one mailer at arms, one corporal, one armourer, his mate, one fail- maker, his mate, three hoatfwain's mates, carpenter's I three, gunner's two, four carpenter's crew, one cook, his mate, fix quarter mafters, and forty-five able ica- men. In the Adventure, Tobias Furneaux was cap- tain, Jofeph Shank and Arthur Kempe, lientenams; Peter Fannin was appointed mafter, Edward Johns boatiwain, Wiiliani Offerd carpenter, Andrew Gloag gunner, Thomas Andrews furgeon : of matter's mates, midiliipmen, &c. as above, the number was twenty- eight, and thirty-three able-bodied feamen. James Scott was lieutenant of the marines, under whofe com- mand were one ferjeant, one corporal, one drummer, and eight pri\^te8. The two (hips were ordered to be got in rcadinefs with the utmoft expedition, and both the Navy and Victualling boards paid an uncommon attention to their equipment ; even the firft Lord of the Admiralty vifit- cd them from time to time ; in confequcnce of which they were not retrained by ordinary .cftablilhment?, every extra article thought neceflary being allowed, in order that they might be fitted completely, and in every refpcv^ to the fatisfadtion of thofe who were to embaric in them. Indeed Captain Cook failed with greater ad- vantages in this expedition, than any of his predecelTors who had gone out before on difcoveries ; and we may venture to fay, no future commander will ever have a commiffion of a more liberal kind, nor be furnilheil with a greater profufion of the very heft ftorcs and pro- viiions. He had the frame of a veflel of twenty tonf>, one for each fliip, to ferve occafionally, or upon any emergency, as tenders : he had on board fiftiing nets, lines and hooks of every kind ; he was fupplied with innumerable articles of fmall value, adapted to the com- merce of the tropical- illands : he had on board addi- tional 696 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. tional doathing for the feamen, particulariy fulted to a cold climate, to all which were added *^he bed inftru- ments for aflronomical and nautical obfervations ; in which were included four time-pieces on Mr Harrifon's principles, conilrudted by MeiE Arnold and Kendal And tnat nothing might oe wanting to procure infor- mation, and that could tend to thefuccefs of the voy. age, a landfcape painter, Mr William Hodges, was en- gaged for this important undertaking, accompanied by UT John Reinhold Forfter and Son, ivlio were thought the moil proper perfons for the tine of Natural Hiilory, to which they were appointed with parliamentary en- couragement. Mr William Wales, and Mr William Bayley, were likewife engaged to make allronomical obfervations ; the former bemg placed by the board of longitude, in the Refolutton, and Mr Bayley in the Ad- venture. Nor muft we omit to mention the number of medals ftruck by order of the Lords of the Admiral- t^r, and iiitended to be left both as prefents and te^mo- nics in new difcovered countries. The two fhips were vidhialled and provided with all manner of neceflaries for a three years vo^ige ; among which were the following extra articles : i. Malt, foe fweet wort, defigned for thofe whofe habit of body might engender the fcurvy, and as a remedy for fuck who might be afflided vnxh that diforder. The quan- tity prcKribed for each patient, from one to fix pints a day, at the difcretion 01 the furgeon. 2. Sour Krout, of vvhich each feaman was to be allowed two pounds a week. This is cabbage falted down, and cloie packed in cafks, after having been properly fermented. It is efteemed by our navigators an excellent antifcorbutic, 3. Cabbage cut fmall and falted down, to which is ad- ded juniper berries, and annifeeds, which are likewil'c put to the four krout. 4. Portable foup, very nourifli- mg, and of great utility both for invalids, and thofe that arc in good health. 5. Oranges, rob of lemons, and faloop, for the ufe of the furgeons, to be adminillered to the fick and fcorbutic only. 6. Marmalade of car- rots, CAl^tAtN cook's second VOYAGE. 657 rots, recommended by Bnron S.orch of Berlin, as a very great .intircorbutic ; but it did noi" as Aich anfwer our expedation. This lyruj) is extruded fioin yellow c;ir- rots, bv^ evaporating tlie Hner parts, tiii it is i>roui^hr to a conliflenre of treacle, which it much refembles borh iii talleand colour. 7. juice of wort and.beer, infpiliJited, as the foreg()in».>j a* tide, and intended to fuppiy at rime.-* the place of beer, by mixing it with water. For this vv^ were indebted to Mr Pclham, fecretary of the Vi^^lual- llng-office ; the commiflionefs of which ordered tlilrty- one half-barrels of this juice to be prenared for trial j nineteen whereof were ftowed in the llefolution, au(i twelve on board the Adventure. Thus all the conve- niences neceffary for the nrcfcrvation of health during along voyage, were provided in abundance'; and evcii lome alterations were made in the cutlomary articles of provifionsj wheat being fubftitutcid in the rporaofa quantity of oatmeal, and fugar inPtead of oil. The tenor and fubftance of Captain Cook*s inflnic- tions were, that the Adventure was to be under hid command : that the two (hips were to proceed to the illand of Madeira, from thence to the Clape of Good Hope : that having at this place rtfreihed the Ihips' companies, and fupplied them with provihons and other neceiTaries, they were to make the bell of tlieir way to the fouthward, in fearch of Cape Circumcilion, which, by M. Bouvet, is faid to be in latitude 54 d. S. and in about 1 1 d. 20 m. E. longitude, from the Royal Ohfervatory in the Park at Greenwich ; that if they fell in with this cape, Captain Cook was to endeavour, by all means in his power, to difcover whether the ian\e was part of the fuppofed continent which Iiad ih muclv employed the national attention of different European powers, or only the promontory of an ifland : that, in either cafe, the gendemen on board the two ihips were Pert Praya, where we anchored, is a fmall bay, l;tu- ated about the middle of the fouth iide of the illand of St Jngo. 1 he water is tolerable, but fcarce ; and bad getting ciF, on account of a great iuif on the beach. The refi'efhments to be got here are bullocks, hogs, goats, 01 tep, poultry, and fruits, The goats are of the antelope kmd, fo extraordinarily lean, that hardly any thing can equal them ; and the bullocks, hogs, and flieep are not much better. Bullocks muft be purchafed with m.oney ; the price is twelve Spanish doilart; ahead, weighing between 250 and 300 pounds. Other ar- ticles may be got from the natives in exchange for old clothes, &CC. ' '■ On the 19th, in the afternoon, one of thecarpenterV matcs fell overboard, and was drowned. He v^ras over the fide, fitting on one of the fcuttles; whence, it was fuppofed he had fallen ; for he was not feen dll the very inftant he funk under the ftiip's Hern, when all endea- yoiirs to lave him were too late. This lofs vras fenlibly felt during the voynre^ as he was a fober man and a good workman. On the 27th, Captain Furneaux loft one of his petty officers. "y^ith variable winds we advanced but ilowly, and IV ' ' ' with- CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE 70T without meeting with any thing rcmjirlcable till the 23d, when we faw a feal, or as Ibme thought^ a fea-lion, which probably might be an inhabitant of one of tho illands of 1 riftian dc Cunha, being now nearly in their latitude. At two in the afternoon on the 29th, we rna<^e the land of the Cape of Good Hope. The Table Moun- tain, which is over the Cape Town, diftance 1 2 or 14, leaf^ues, was a good deal obfcured by clouds, otheiAvhe i: might, from its height, have been feen at a much gicater diftance. Between eight and nine o'clock this c^'ening, (he whole fea, within the compafs of our light, became at once, as it were, illuminated, or, wliat the feamen call, all on fire. This appearance of the fea, in ibme degree, is very common ; bu!: the caufe is not lb generally known. Mr Banks and Dr Solander wcr©^ of opinion it v*'as occafioned by fea iv.fetfts ; Mr Forfter,'- however, feemed not to favour this opinion. Some buckets of water were drawn up fiom alcng-fide the fhip, which was found full of an innumerable quantity of Imall globular infeds, about the lize of a common pin's head, and quite tranfparent. In the morning we ftood into Table Bay, and an^ chorcd in five fathom water. We had no fooner an- chored tlian we were vifited by the Captain of the port and Mr Brandt. This laft gentleman brought offfuch things as could not fall of being acceptable to perfons coming from fea. The Mafter Attendant alio vifited us, according to cuftom, to take an account of the fliips ; to enquire into the health of the crews ; and, in particular, if the iVnall-pox was on board ; a thing they dread above all others at the Cape, and for theie pur-i pofes a furgeon is always one of the vilitants. Captain Cook waited upon the Governor, accompa- nied by Captain Funieaux and the two Mr Forfters. He received them with great politenefs, and promifid every affiftance the place could afford. After having vifited the Governor, and fome other principal perfons of the place, we fixed at Mr Brandt's, ^a CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. theufual refidence of moft officers belonging to Englifh ihips. This gentleman fpares neither trouble nor ex- pence to make his houfe agreeable to thofe who favour iim with their company, and .to accommodate them with every thing they want. Three or four days aifter us, two Dutch Indiamen arrived here from Holland, after a palTage of betv^'eeu four and five months, in which one loft^ by the fcurvy and other putrid difeafes, 150 men, and the other 41, They fcnt,^ on jheir arrival, great numbers, to the hof- pital in very dreadful circumftances. It was the 1 8th of November before we had get ready to put to fea. During this ftay the crews of both Ihips were fei*yed everyday with frefh beef or mutton, new-baked bread, and as much greens as they could eat, The ihipe were caulked and painted ; and, tn every re- |pedt^ put in as good a conditiou a$ when they kft England. Mr Forfler, whofe whole time was taken up in the purfuit of Natural Hiflory and Botany, met with a Swedifh gentleman, one Mr Sparnnan, who had ftudiei under Pr Linnaeus, He, by Captain Cook's confentf embarked as an aSiftant to Mr Foriler^ who bore his expences on board, and allowed him *a yearly i^ipend beiides. At three o^clock ii* the afternoon of the ?gd, wb weighed, with the wind at N. by W. On the 25th we had abundance of albatrofTes about uft, Several of which were caught with hook and line; and w^*? yery well relifhed by many of the people, notwithftand- ing they were at this time fetved with fireih mutton, Judging that wc ibould foon come into cold weather* the captain ordered (lops to be ferved to fuch as were in vraot ; and gave to each man the fear-nought jacket $nd trowiers aUowcd them by the Admiralty, A violerkt gale, which was attended with rain and hail, blew at times with ftich violeiKie, that we could cavry no fails ; by which means we were driyen far to U>€ ^w^rd of pur intended couirfe, and no hope&were left CAPTAIN COv^K's SECOND VOYAGE. 703 left of* reaching Cape Circumcifion. But the greatell misfortune that attended us, was the lofs of great part of our Uve*-ftock, which we had brought from the Cape, and wliich conCifted of (lieep, hogs, and geefe. There was now a fuddcn tranfition from warm, mild weather^ to extreme cold and wet, which made every man in the ihip fed its effects ; for, by this time, the mercury in the thermometer had fallen to ,-58, whereas at the Cape it was generally at 67 and upwards. The night proved dear and ferene, and the only one that was fo iincc they left the Cape; and the next morning the rifmg fun gave fiich flattering hopes of a fine day, that w-e were in- duced to let all the reefs out of the top-fails. Our hopes, however, foon vanilhed; for by one o'clock P. M. the wind, which was at N. W. blew with (uck ftrength as obliged us to take in all our fails, to Arikc top-gallant-malts, and to g^ the fpritfail-}Tird in. The three following days the wi^- ! ahateti. On the loth, the weather being hazy, I've did nt* fee an illand of ice wliich we were ileering dircdly for, till we were lefs than a mile from it. It appeared to be about 50 feet high, and half a mile in circuit, it was flat at the top, and its fides rofe in a perpendicular diredion, again ft which the fea broke exceedingly higk, Capt. Furneaux at firft took this ice for land, and hauled off from it, until called back by fignal As the wea- ther Was foggy, it was ncccfiary to proceed with cau-» tion. The hazy weather continued on the nth and 1 2th with fleet and fnow ; fo that we were obliged to pro- ceed with great caution on account of the ice iflands. Six of thefe we pSL&d this day ; fome erf" them near two miles in circuit, and 60 feet high. And yet, fuch was the force and height of thefc waves, that the lea broke quite over them. Capt. Cook fays, " this exhibited a view which for a few moments was pleafing to the eyes but whetl we refle£led on the danger, the mind was fillei with horror. For were a ihip to get againft the weather 704 CArtAm COOK'S si:cos*D lids of one of tlidc iflands v/hen the fea Irete higli< Ihe wnuK! be daftied to pieces in a moment." From noon till eight o'clock in the evening, twenty ice iflands, of various extent, both for height and cIn cuit, came in view. At about nine o'clock we founj no ground v/ith 150 fathom of line. At eight o'clock on the 14th, we brought-to under a point of the ice, where we had fmooth water : and the two Captains lixed on rendexvoufes in cafe of repa- ration, and feme other matters for the better keeping company. Next day, the ij:th, we had the Wind nt N. W. a fmall gale, thick foggy weather, with much fnow ; our fails and rigging vv^ere all hung with icicles. The fog was fo thick, at times, that we. could not fee the length of the fhip ; and we had much diiTiculty to avoid the many iflands of ice that furrounderl us. On the lyih^ we faw many whales, one feal, pen- guins, fome white birds, another fort of petercl, which is brown and white, and not mucli unlike a pintado; And fome other forts. We found the fkirts of the lool'e ice to be more broken than ufual ; and it extended iome diftance beyond t^e main field, infomuch that we failed amongft it the m^jft part of the day ; snd the high ice iflands without were innumerable. The weather was fenfibly colder than the thermometer feemed to poini: out, infomuch that the whole crew complained. In or- der to enable them to fupport this the better, the fleeves of their jackets (which w^ere fo ihort as. to expofe their arms) were lengthened with baize ; and had a cap made for each man of the fame ftufF, together with canvas; which proved of great fervice to them. On the 24th, being near an ifland of ice, which was about 50 feet high, and 400 fathoms in circuit, the maf- ter went in the jolly-lx)at to fee if any water ran from it. He fbon returned with an account that there was not one drop, or any other appearance of thaw. We failed this day through feveral floats, or fields of loofe ice». lying in the dirediioa of S. E. and N. W» ■ ' ** On IN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 7»5 Odl^eigthy we came to a, refclution, to run as far Weft as the meridian of Cape Circumcilion, provided we met with no impediment*, as the diftance was not more than 80 leagues, the wind favourable, and the fea feemed to be pretty clear of ice. At one o'clock we fteered for an illand of ice, thinking, if there were any loofe ice round it, to take fome on board, and convert it into frefh water. At four we brought to, clofe un- der the lee of the ifland ; where we did not find what we wanted, but faw upon it eighty-fix penguins. This place of ice was about half a mile in circuit, and one hundred feet high and upwards ; for we lay for fojne minutes with every fail becalmed under it. The fide on which the penguins were, rofe floping from the fea, fo as to admit them to creep up it. We continued to the weftward, with a gentle gale atE. N. E. the weather being fometimes tolerably clear, and at other times thick and hazy, with fnow. On the 30th, we fhot one of the white birds ; upon which we lowered a boat into the water to take it up ; and by that means killed a penguin which weighed 1 1 f pounds. The white bird was of the petrel tribe ; the bill, which is rather fliort, is of a colour between black and dark blue ; and their legs and feet are blue. On the 2d of January, 1773, the weather wis fo clear that we might have feen land at fourteen or fif- teen leagues diftance. On the jth, we had much inow and fleet, which, as ufual, froze on the rigging as it fell ; fo that every rope was covered with the fineft tranfparent ice. This aiiorded an agreeable fight enough to the eye, but con- veyed to the mind an idea of coldnefs, much greater than it really was ; for the weather was rather milder than it had been for fome time pad, and the lea lefs in<* cumbered with ice. On the 9th we brought to, and hoifted out three boats ; s^d, in about five or iix hours, took up as much ice as yielded fifteen tons of good frefh water. The pieces taken up were hard, and foUd as a rock ; fome of VqH—N* 18. 4U thea 7C5 CAPTAIN COOfe's SECOND VOYAGE- them fo large, that we were obliged to break them with £ike axes, before thc^y could be taken into the boats, arge piles of it were packed upon the quarter- deck, and put into cafks, from which, after it was melted, we got water enough for thirty days. A very little fait water adhered to the ice, and the water which this j)ro. duced was very frelli and good. Excepting the melting and taking away the ice, this is a moft expeditious - method of fupplyiag (hips with water. We obferved here fevcral white whales, of an immenfe fize. In two days afterwards we took in more ice, as did the Ad- venture. Some perfons on board, who were ignorant of natural philbfophy, were very much afraid that the tinmelted ice, which was kept in cafks, when the wea- ther altered, would diflblve and burft the calks, in which it was packed, thinking that, in its melted ftate it would take up more room than in its frozen one. In order to imdeceive them. Captain Cook placed a little pot of ftamped ice in a temperate cabl)in, which, as it gradu- ally diflblvcd, took up much lefs fpace than before. This was a convincing argument, and their fears of this fort fubfided. As wc had now feveral fine days, we had frequent opportunities of making obfervations, and trying experiments, which were very ferviceable to us ■fen many accounts. The people likewife took the op- portunity of wafhing their cloaths in frefh water. On the 1 7th, beiSre noon, we crofled the antaidic circle ; and advanced into the fouthern frigid zone, wliich to all former navigators had remained impene- trable. Wc could fee feveral leagues around us, as the weather was tolerable clear. In the afternoon we faw die whole fca covered with ice, froin S. E. '0 S. W. We faw anew fpecies of the petrel, of a brown colour, ■i)5rith a white belly and rump, and a large white fpot on the wings ^ we faw great flights of them, but never any of them fell into the Ihips. We called it the Antardic petrel, as fuch nutnbers of them were feen here- abouts. ^ ^ In the afternoon we faw thirty-eight ice iflands, large '^' and CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 707^ and fmall. This immcnfe field was compofed of dif- ferent kinds of ice ; fuch as field-ido, as fo called by the Groenlandmen, and packed ice. Ilcre we faw feveral whales playing about the ice, and ftill large floi.ks of petrels. ■• Our latitude was now 67 d. J5 m. S. We did not think it prudent: to perfevere in a fouth-. ern diredlion, as that kind of fummer which this part of the world produces was now half fpent ; and it would have taken up much time to have gone round the ice, fuppofmg it praiflicable ; we therefore refolved to go (liredly in fearch of the land lately difcovered by the French. On the I gth, in the evening, we faw a bird, which in Captain Cook's former voyage was called the Port Egmont hen ; fo called, becaule there are great num- bers of them to be feen at Port Egmont in Falkland iflands. They are about the fize of a large crow, {hort and thick, of a chocolate colour, with a white fpeck under each wing. Thofe birds are faid never to go far from land ; and we were induced from this circum- ftance to hope that land was near, but we were difap- pninted ; the ice iflands had probably brought this bird hither. On the 21(1, we faw white albatroffes with black tip- ped wings. On the 3>9th, feveral porpoifes pafTed ua witlf amazing fwiftnefs ; they had a large white fpot on their fides, which came ahnoft up to their backs. They went at leaft: three times as fail as our veflels, and we went at the rate oJTeven knots and a half an hour. On the 31ft, we paiTed a large ice ifland, wliich at the tima of our failing by was tumbling to pieces. The explo- hon equalled that of a cannon. On the iftxjf February, we faw large quantities of fea weed floating by the fiiips. Captain Furneaux ac- quainted Captain Cook, that he had feeri a number of divers, which very much refembled thofe in the Engliflx feas, and likewife a large bed of floating rock-weed. Thefe. were certain figns of the vicinity of land 2 but wc could not tell wlifither it was to the E. or W. We /^V z imagined 7o8 CAPTAIN COOK'* SECOND VOYAGE. imagined that no land of any extent lav to the W. becauf'e the Tea ran fo high from the N. £. N. N. W. and W. we therefore fteered to the E. lay to in the night, and refumed our courfe in the morning;. We faw two pr three egg birds, and pafled feverai pieces nf rock- weed, but no other figns of land. We fteered north- ward, and made (ignal for the Adventure to follow, as flie was rather thrown aftern by her movement to the eaftward. We could not find land in that diredion, and we again fteered fouthward. There was an ex- ceeding thick fog on the 4th, on which we loft fight of the Adventure. We fired feverai fignals, but were not anfwered ; on which account we had too much reafon to thinly that a feparation had taken place, though we could not well tell what h^d been the caufe of it. Capr. Cook had directed Capt. Furneaux, in cafe of a fepara- tion to cruife three days in that place he laft faw the ]R.efolution. Qapt. Cook accordingly made fliort boards, and fired half hour guns till the afternoon of the 7th, when the weather cleared up, and the Adventure was not to be feen in the limits of that horizon. We were obliged to lie to till the loth, and notwithftanding we kept firing guns, and burning falfe fires all night, we neither faw nor heard any thing of the Adventure, and were obliged to make fail without her, which was but a difmal profpe^,for we were now expofed to the danger of the frozen climate without the company of our fellow voyagers, which before had relieved our fpirits, whep we confidered that we were not entirely alone in cafe we loft our own veffel. The crew univerfally regretted the lofs of the Adventure; and they feldom looked around the ocean without expreffing fome concern that we were alone on this unexplored expanfe. At this time we had an opportunity of feeing what we had never obfcrved before, the aurora aii/iralisy which made a very grand and luminous appearance. Nothing ma- terial happened to us, but various changes of the weather and climate, till the 25th of March, when land was (een |rom the maft^head, which greatly exhilarated the fpirit} the W. N.W. c night, aw two )f rock- norih- llow, as to the redion, an cx- fighl of i^ere not i reafon Jgh we Capr. fepara- fawthe I boards, the 7th, ure was 7e were ling we ght, we ire, and as but a danger r fellow CAPTAIN COOK»» SECOND VOYAGE. 79^ if our failors. We ftcered in for the land with all the ul we could carry, and had the advantage of good reather and a frefh gale. The captain miAook the bay efore us for Dniky Bay, the ifiands that lay at the loiith of it having deceived him. We proceeded for )iiiky Bay, in New Zealand, but with much cautioa jas we advanced n^ar the land. We palFed feveral illands, &c. and two leagues up the bay an officer was lent out to look for ancnorage, which he found, and Ifignified it by fignal. Here we anchored in fifty fathoms water, and very near the ftiore. This joyful circum* ftance happened on the 26th of March, after wc had been 1 1 7 days at fca, and failed 3660 leagues, without fo much as once feeing land. It niiglit be fuppofed^ from the length of time we had been at fea, that the people would have been generally affected by tho icurvy ; but the contrary happened, owing to the pre- cautions we ufed. The country mm CM' others of t^ atone end which con other necef aw.iVj leavi nails, and 2 of thefc pec wm'kmanlh keep out -a 1 ground, on tibout, in Ir ieiirch of fc from what I rant wretcht try capable tlimate the our wood a] intending to Yin Diemei Ou Tuefd on the ijihi land, and R< Here the coi level ; but w bay, wherein in latitude 4^ from this lat i:i:in;ls and ( barren. V/( niude land in to fail in wii Adventure E Imd, the coi and Capt. Ft I'lraits betwet but a very d( at S. S. E. an ^v.ird, he the and make th "3??^ CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGZ. others of their wigwams were one of their fpears, (harp at one end, with Ibme hags and nets made of grafs, which contained, we imagine, their provifions and other necefTaries. " We brought mod of tho(e things away, leaving in their room mechils, gun-fiints, a few nails, and an old iron-hooped empty barrel. '1 he huts ofthefc people fcemod to be built only fbr a day, the wDrkmanihip bein*^ fo Hender, that they will hardly keep out -a fliower of rain. The inhabitants lie on the ground, on dried grais, round their fires. They wander (bout, in fmall parties, from one place to another, m learch of food, the .:iaef end of their cxiftence ; and, from what he could judge, they are altogether, an igno- rant wretched race of mortals, though natives of a counr try capable of proxlucing every recellary of-'ife-, and a climate the fined in the world. Having got on board our wood and water, we failed out of Adventure 15ayi intending to coaft it, with a view of difcoVering w^heihe.r' Van DIemen's Lalnd is part of New riolland. ■ ••: OuTuefday the 1 6th, we paffed Maria's Ifiands,JUTd oiitlic 17th Schouten's, when we hauled in for the mciii bud, and Rood off two or three le^jgues along ihorc. Here the country appeared well inhabited, and tae lan;l level ; hut we difcovered not any ligns of a har'jour be b,iy, wherein a -fliip might anchor with fafcty. The lantir in latitude 40 d. 50 m. S. trendn to the weftward, ani from this latitude to that of 39 d. 50 m. is nothing bi:t iiiands and (hoals ; the land appearing iiigh, rock/, aiii barren. \Vq now Rood to the northWiird, and agjunr mude Ki!id in 39 d. but foon after dilcontinued this coiuie; !o fall in with the fhore being very dangerous. From Adventure Bay to where we hood avv^ay to New Z4iejH bnd, the coaft lies in the diredi6n S. J: VV. and N. f.M*, and Capt. Furneanx w^as of opinion, that there airdt«0' llraits between New Holland and Van Diemen's LsvM, but a very deep bay, "T he wind blowing a fl'*ong gaje atS. S. E. and feeming likely to (hift round to the ead- ^vard, bethought it'moft prudent to leave the coafl, and nuikc the befl of his way for New Zccdand, ^ Y 3 On 724 Captain cook»s second votage. On the 24th, having left Van Diemen's land, a very fevere fquall reduced us to reefed courfes. We (hipped many w^aves, one of which ftove the large cutter, and with much difficulty we pre^^ented the fmall one from being wafhed over-board. After this heavy gale, which continued twelve hours, we had more temperaie wea- ther, accompanied with calms. At length we made the coaft of New Zealand in 40 d. \o m. S. latitude, having run 24 d. of longitude from Adventure Bay, in a paflage of fifteen days. When we firft came in fight 01 land, it appeared high, forming a confufed group of hills and mountains. We ft^ered along (hore to the northward, but our courfe was much retarded by the fwell from the N. E. On Saturday, April the ^d* at fix o'clock, A. M. we defcried land, which upon a nearer approach we knew to be that which lies between Rock Point and Cape l^'arewell, fo named by Capt. Cook, when on his return from his laft voyage. Cape Farewell, the fouth point of the entrance of the weft fide of the ftraits, bore E. by N. r N. three or four leagues diftant, Sunday, the 4th, we continued our courfe, and flood to the eaftward lor Charlotte's Sound. On Monday, the 5th, we work- ed up to windward under Point Jackfon, From Ste- phen s Ifland to this Point, the couHa is nearly S. E. diftance eleven leagues. We fired fcveral guns while ftanding off and on, but faw not any inhabitants. At half palt two P. M. we anchored in qiirty-nine fathoms water, muddy ground ; Point Jackfon being S. E. | E. three leagues. At eight we weighed and made fail. Tuefday, the 6th, at eight o'clock A. M. had the Sound open, and worked up under the weftern (hore. At ten came to, clofe to feme white rocks, in thirty- eight fa- thoms, and on the 7th anchored in Ship Coye, in t( n fathoms water, and moored the beft bower to the N. N. E. I n the night heard the howling of dogs, and people hallooing on the caft fhore. Capt. Furneaux now or- dered the large cutter to be manned, and fent her, with a proper guard, to examine, whether there were any figas CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. '25 figns of the Refolvtion having arrived at that harbour. The boat returned, yithout the lead dilcover}', but that of the poft, ere^ed ^ the Endeavour's people, on the top of a hill, with her name and time of her departure in 1770. Upon this, we inftantly prepared to fend the tents afhore, for the accommodation of thofe who were afflided with the fcurvy ; while fuch who enjoyed health were very alert in catching fi{h, which proved of great fervice in recovering our fick, to whom frefli pro- vifions were both food and phyfic On Friday, the 9th, three canoes came along- fide the Adventure, having fifteen Indians of bo|^ fexes, all armed with battle axes, and with other ofFenuve weapons made of hard wood, in the form of our officers fpon- toous, about four feet in length ; but they- had neither bows nor arrows. A kind of mat was wrapt round their fhoulders, and tied about their waifts with a girdle made of grafs. Both men and women exhibited a moft favage appearance, and were very unwilling to venture on board. The Captain made them prefents, and by figns invited them to trade. They accepted the prefents, and Tome of them alTumed courage enough to truft themfelves on deck. One of our gentlemen, feeing lomething wrapt up, had the curiofity to examine what it was, when, to his great furprize, he found it to be the head of a man, which, by its bleeding, Teemed to be freih cut off. As Capt. Cook had exprefled his abhor- rence of fuch unnatural ads, the Indians were very apprehenfive of its being forced from them, and the man, to whom it belonged, trembled for fear of being punifhed. They therefore, with furprizing dexterity, in order to conceal the head, fhlfted it from one to another, till it was conveyed outot fight; endeavour- ing, at the fame time, to convince us by figns, that no fuch thing wa<^ in their poUeffion. They then left the ftiip, and went on fhore, not without fome vifible figns of difpleafure. In this vifit they often mentioned the name of Tupia, and upon being inform '^ he died at Baiavia^ fome of ihem with mv^ch concern enquired whether •J2i CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. Tvlietlicr wc killed him, or if he died a natural death. By thefe queiiions, we concluded' tNefe TiKlians were fbmc of the fame tribe v/ho had^ villted the Endeavour's con\»)any. They returned in the 'afternoon, with fifli and fern roots, \vhirh they bartered for nails, to them the moft valuable articles ; but the man and woman who had the head were not among them. Having a catalogue of words in their kui^'^uage, we called feveral things by name, at which they ieemed much furprized, and offered a qmntity of fi(h for tlie catalogue. ■ On Saturday the loth, about eight in the rnornirig, five double cances came along-iidc the Adventure, with about: fifty Indians, at the head of who'ii was their chief. We purclia fed of them, for nails, and bottle^ their implements of v/'ir, ftone hatche;^, cloth, &c. upon which they fet a h!^*;]i price. Several of their chie'^sTien came on board, nnr wo\ild they quit the fldp l)y fair tncans ; but upon prefenttng a mufquet with a bayoiK^t )lxed, they quickly took leave of us, fremingly in great good humour ; and afrervv'ards they vibted us daily, hringiiig with ihem iifli in abundance, which tliey cx- dianged for n^ill-?, bcad-^, and other trifles. They be- haved quite peiccably, and, having diipofed of their cargoes, departed at all t'ltnes, feemingly, well' pleafcd. Wc now placed a guard on d little ifland, which, at low water, is joining to Mortuara, called the Hippah, Rt which j)!acc was an old fonified town, that had been abandon d by the natives. We took poflTeflion of their houfes, and by finking a fori;, within fide, made them very comfortable. Here our aflronoiner eredecl liis ob- f;irvatory; at the fame time we ftruck our ten'« oa Mortuara; and having run farther into the cove with the Ihip, we moored her for the winter, on the w.;(t fliore, and gave her a winter coat to preferv , her hull; then after lending alhore the fpars -".id hrv.ber oi the decks to be caulked, we pitched our tents near the river, at the watering-place. On Tuefday, tlic i ith of May, feveral of our rrcw, who were at work on Ihore, very fenfible felt the Ihock cf captain' dOOK's SECOND VOYAGE. 727 of an earthquake, from wlilth circumflance we think it probable, that there are volcanoes in New Zealand, as thele phenomena p^enerally go together. Oa the 1 2th, the we.uher continuing fair, and the Indians friendly, the captain and officers were preparing to g ■ .iQiore, when about nine A. M. no lei's then ten caiiocs came paddling down the Sound. We counted one hundred and twenty natives all armed. When along-lide of the iliip, they ex pre (fed a deiirc to be admitted on hoard ; hut Capt. Furneaux, not liking their looks aid gcilures, gave orders, that a few only (hould be p.dmltted at a tune. Thefc behaved fo diforderiy that t'-e lailors were obliged to turn them out, and it now 'i-;i-:ared plainly tiiat d;c intcnlioiis of our vihtors were to make them- il'ivcs matters of the Ihip : liowever, finding the crew to be upon their guard, they became more civil, but not before a great gun was dilbharged over their heads, which alone intiniidated them. Being thus reduced to order, the people on board produced fcveral articles, liich as beads, imall clafj) knives, fciffars, cloth, paper, and otlier trilles, which they bartered for battle axe% ipcars, weapons of vario\is forts, fifli- hooks, and other curiolities, the manufadlure of the coiuitry. Being viii- bly diiappointed in the execution of their grand defign, they took to their canoes, all gabbling together in a language, a word of wdiich no one on board could un- deiitand : but previous to their departure, the Captain and oiEcers made prefents to thofe among them who appeared to be their chiefs, which they: accepted with grrat apparent fatisfadlion. Three months were now elapfed fmcc tlie Adventure !oft light of the Refolution ; but on the 1 7th llxe v/as ieen ut Jackfon Point. We immediately lent our lioats to her alfiliance, it bcii^ig calm, to tow her i iito the Sound. h the evening ihe anchored about a mile without us, and njxt morning weigiied and v/arped vv ithin us. The pblure the lliips' couipanies felt at meeting can only beconciivcM by thofe who have been in hke circmn- lianccsi, 728 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND' VOYAGE. dances, each were as eager to relate as the others were to hear. Having thus related the progrefs of the Adventure, we now come to record the tranfadlions of both fhips after their junction. It were little more than a re- petition of the Adventure's diftrefles, to recapitulate the efiedts of the boifterous weather that were felt by the crew of the Refolution ; being fometimes furrounded with iflands of ice, out of which they could only extri- cate themfelves by the utmoft exertion of their (kill in feamanlhip, fometimes involved in fheets of fleet and foow, and in mifts fo dark, that a man on the fore- caftle could not be feen from the quarter deck ; forae- ti|nes the fea rolling mountains high, while the running tackle, made britde by the feverity of the froft, was fre- quently ihapping, and fometimes rendered immove- aole. Amidrt the hard(hips of fuch a traverfe, there is nothing more aftoniftiing, than that the crew fhould continue in perfed: health, fcarce a man being fo ill as to be incapable of duty. Nothing can redound more to the honour of Captain Cook, than his paying parti- cular attention to the prefervation of health among his company. By obferving the ftridleft difcipliqe, from the higheft to the loweft, his commands were duly ob- ferved, and punctually executed. When the fervice was hard, he tempeitd the feverity thereof By frequent- ly relieving thofe employed in the performance, and having all hands at command, he was never under the neceflity of continuing the labour of any fet of men be- yond what their ftrength and their fpirits could bear. Another neceffary precaution was, that in fine or fet- tled weather, the Captain never fuffered any of his men to be idle, but conilantly employed the armourers, the carpenters, the profeflea navigators, foremaftmen^ &c. in doing fomething each in his own way, which, though not immediately wanted, he knew there might be a call for before the voyage was completed. Having by this means left no fpare time for gaming, quarrelling, or noting, he kept them in adion, and puniihed drunken- neis CATTaIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGTE. 1^9 nefs with the utmofl feventy ; and thus hy perfevering in a fteady line of conckidl, he was enabled to keep the fea till reduced to a very fcanty portion of water ; and when he defpaired of finding any new land, and had fully fatisiied himfelf of the non-exiftence of any conti- nent in tlic quarter he had travcrfed, he directed his courfe to Charlotte's Sound, the place appointed for both fliips to rendezvous in cafe of feparation, and ap^ peared off the fame, (as has been already related) on Tuefday, the i8th of May, 1773, and here we difco- vered our confort the Adventure, hy the fignals fhs made to us, an event evtry one in both fliips felt with inexprcilihlc fatisfadlicni The next morning after our arrival, bein^ Wedncf^ finy, the 19th, Captain Cook went off in the boat, at (Liy break, to gather icurvy-grafs, celery, and other ve- gcrahlcs. At breakfall time he returned with a boat load, enough for the crews of both ihips 3 and know- ing ?heir falutary efficacy in removing fcorbutic com- plaints, he ordered that they fhould be boiled with wheat and portable broth, every morning for breakfafl, and with peafc and broth for dinner^ and thus dreflcd they are extremely benehcial. It was now the Cap- tain's intention to vifit Van Dlemen's land, in order to determine 'wliether it made a part of iNew Holland ; but as Capt. Furneaux had clearca up this point, it was refolved to contiiuie our refearches to the caft betweeii the latitudes of 41 d. and 46 d. In conl'equence of this determination Captain Cook ordered out his men to alfill the crew of the Adventure in preparing her for iea. He was induced more efpecially to this, becaufe he knew refrelhments were to be procured at the Socie- ty liles. ^ On the 20th, we vifited the fortifications of the na- tives where the obl'ervatory was fixed. It is only ac- cefTible in one place, and there by a narrow^ difficult path, being fuuated on a fleep rock. The huts of ther natives (lood promifcuoufly within an inclofure of pal- liladoes ; they confiiled only of^ roof, and had no wall.9. Vol. l.-N° 19. 4 2 Perhaps 730 CAPTAIN COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. Perhaps thcTe are only occafional abodes, when the Indians lint! rhemfelvcs in any danger. Capt. Furneaux had planted before our arrival, a great quantity of gar- den feeds, which grew very well, and produced plenty of fallad and European greens. This clay Capt. Coot ient on Ihore, to the wiitering-place, near the Adven- ture's tent, the only ewe and ram remaining of thofewe brought from the Cape of Good Hope. On the 2 10: we went over to Long Ifland, which coniiftsof one long ridge, the top nearly level, and the fides fteep. Here we found various kinds of ftone, and fowed different kinds of garden feeds upon feme fpots which wc cleared for that purpofe. On Saturday, the 2 2d, we found the ewe and ram dead, whofe death we fuppofedto have been occafion- ed by fome poifonous plants. About noon we were vifited by two fmall canoes in which were live men. They dined with us, and it was not a little they de- voured. In the evening they were difmiffed v,rith pre- fents. They refembled the people of Dufky Bay, but were much more fluniliar, and did not appear concern- ed at feeing us, which was probably owing to their having before vifited the crew of the Adventure. Some of cur crew made ufe of their canoes to fet themfelves afhore, on v^hich they complained to the Captain ; and, upon their canoes being rcftored, they feemed highly delighted. On Monday the 24th, early in the morning, Mr Gilbert, the mailer, was difpatched to found about the rock we had difcovered in the entrance of the found ; at the fame time Captain Cook, accompanied by Capt. Furneaux and Mr Forfter, fet off in a boat to the \ve(l bay on a fliooting party. They met a large tanoe, in which were 14 or 15 people; and the hrft: queftion they aflced was concerning the welfare of Tupia. Be- ing told he was dead, they expreffed fome concern. Tlic fame enquiry, as has been obferved, was made ot Captain Furneaux when he firft arrived, and on our getting aboard in the evening we were informed, that ^ . fome CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 731 fome Indians in a canoe, who wore ftrangcs to our peo- ple, had aho enquired for Tiipia. Mr Gill)ert having iGiinded all round the rock, which he found to he very fmall and ftcep, returned - late in the evening. This (lay the Refolution received another vifit from a family who came with no other intent than partaking of cur food, and to get fome of our iron work. We wanted to know their names, but it was a long time before we could make tliem undcrfland us. At lail we found that the oldcfl: was called Towahanga, and the ethers Kotugha-a, Koghoaa, Khoaa, Kollakh, and Taupuape- rua. The lad w^as a hoy about twelve years of age, very lively and intelligent. He dned with us, eat vo- racioufly, and was very fond of the cruft of a pie made of wild fowl. . He did not much relifli Madeira wine which the Captain gave him, but was very fond of fome fweet Cape wine, which elevated his Ipirits, and his tongue was perpetually going. Ke very much wanted the Captain's boat cloak, and fccmed much hurt at a refufal. An empty bottle and a table-cloth being alfo deniedvhtm, he grew exceeding angry, and at kngth was ibfuUen, that he would not fpeak a word. On Saturday the 29th inflant, a great number of n-j- tlves furrounded us with CLUioes, who brought goods to exchange, for which they got good returns, owing to the eagernefs whh which our failors outbid each other, all of them being delirous of having fome of the pro- ilusHions of this country. Among thefe Indians we faw many women whofe lips were of a blackiili hue, and their cheeks were painted with a lively red. They had large knees, and {lender bandy legs, owing to want of exercife, and fitting in their canoes crofs legged. Thefe ladies were very agreeable to . our crews, who had no opportunity of indulging an intercourfe with other wo- men fince our departure from England ; and they foon found out, that ehaftity was not a diftinguifhing part of their character. Their confent was eafily purchafed : afpike nail, or an old Ihirt, was a fufficient bribe ; the lady was then left to make her man happy, and to ex- 4 Z; 2 slOl 732 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. a£t from him another prcknt for herfelf. Wc mull obferve, to the credit of fomc of thcfe women, and to the difcredit of their men, that feveral of the fcrmer fubmittcd to this proftitution with much fecming iv- lu(ftance ; and they were fomctimes terrified into a com- pliance by the authority and even the menaces of the men. The New Zealanders, encouraged by the gain of this difgraceful commerce, went through both the Ihips, offering their daughters and fifters to the promir. cuous embraces of every one for iron, tools, &c. but ihe married women were not obliged to carry on tliis infa- mous kind of traffic. Indeed it feems to be an eftahlifh- ed cuftom in New Zealand for a girl to beftow her fa- vour on a number of men, without the leall; infringe- ment on her charadlcr ; but after marriage the ftrideft conjugal fidelity is expected from her. Sketches of the moil chiiraderiiUc of their faces wwere taken by our draiightfmen. Several cf the old men in particular, had very expreffive countenances ; and fome of the young ones looked very favage, owing to their builiy hair hanging over their faces. In the evening they all went on Ihore, and erected temporary huts oppoiite to tlic fhips. Here they made fires, an4 prepared their flip- pers, which confided of frefli fi(h, which they caught with great dexterity. One of thefe Indians Capt. Ccok took over to Mortuara, and ihewed him fome potatoeg, in a thriving condition, which were plantea by Mr Fannen, matter of the Adventure. The man w.4s fo well pleafed with them, that of his own accord, he be- gan to hoe up the earth round the plants. He was the)i conduced to other plantations of turnips, carrots, and parfnips, of which it was eafy to give them an idea, by comparing them with fuch roots as they were well ac- quainted with. We mud further remark of thefe peo- ple, that not any of our methods of filhing are cquil to theirs. On the 30th inftant, we went over to Long Ifland, to collect fome hay which the crews had made, and to lj>ring fome vegetables on beard. In this trip we found ■ '- \ ^ ■ (eyeral CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 77,3 ffvcral new plant??, and fliot fonie rmall birds, wliicli we had not leen before. In the afternoon, Ijave was l^lven to fome of our failors to go on lliorc, wlicre thty n'^Mi purchafcvl the embraces of the women. Theic fellows mull have l)eeii very keen indeed, or they would have been difguftcd with the iincleanlinefs of their doxies, all of whom had a difagreeabic fmcll, which might be fcented at a confulerable dirtance ; and their clothes as well as liair fwarmed with vermin to a very great degree ; wliich they occafionally cracked be- tween their teeth. It is furprizing how men, who had received a civilized education, could gratify ti^e animal appetite with fnch loathfome creatures. While this party were on fhore, a young woman on board ifole one of our feamen's jackets, and gave it a young man of her own tribe ; upon the failor s taking -it from the Indian, he received feveral blows on the face by the young fellow's fill. At full the failor took this as in joke, but upon perceiving the alFailant to be in earneft, jij gave him a hearty Knglifh drubbing, and made him cry out for quarters. At this time Captain Cook con- tiiuied his employment of fov/inu^, in different fpo^s cleared for the purpofc, all forts of vegetables that he thought would grow in this country, luch as potatoes, beans, peas, corn, 5cc. On Tucfday the ift of June, we were vilited by fe- veral natives whom wc lu-td not feen before, and who brought with theni fundiy new articles of commerce ; siuong thefc were do^js, fome of which we purchaieih Of thele lieopie we law a few oddly marked in their face?, by fpiral lines deeply cut in them. Such kind of m:tr!:s were very regular in the fjcc of a middle-aged inra, named Tringho Waya, who appeared to be a peJ^ ■ • -t of note, and to huve authority over his brethren. i his company feemed to underhand perfe;ntS5 and Hood in a rovv^,* They fung IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 1^ 1 2.2 |30 |56 |j^ II IL25 II 1.4 1.6 V <^ /a Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 13 W'EST fA*IN STRKT Wlb$i£R,N.Y. I45S0 (716) 872-4503 iV ^ ■10" .\ 5. o^ 734 CAPTAIN COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. a fong, and its chorus all together, making during th: performnnce many frantic geftures. Mulic accomJ panied tliis fong and dance, but it was not very! harinonioUvS. On Wcdnefday the 2d, we fet afhore on the eaft-fid!! cf the found a m;\k and female goat. The latter, wlilch wa? more than a year old, had two fine kids, that were killed by the cold fomc time before we arrived in Duikv Bay. Capt. Furneaux like^vife put on fhore, in Cannil}a| Cove, a boar and two breeding fows, which were left to range in the woods at pleafurc. Should they remain iHimolcfted by the natives till they become wild, they will then be in no danger, and in time this country may he ftccked with thefc uleful animals. In an excuifion made this day by fome of our people to the ea(t, they met with the largcH: feal they had ever fcen. They difcovcrod it fwimining on the furface of the water, and pjot near enough to lire at it, but without efFed; and after purfuing it near an hour, th.ey were obliged to give over the chace. By the fize of tliis animal, it pro- bably was a fca-lionefs ; Capr. Cook was of this opinica from having ieen a fea-lion when he entered tl.is lound, in his former voyaf^e ; and bethought theie creatures had their abode in fome of the rocks, that lie oft' Admi- ralty Bay, and ia the llrait. On the 3d, fome boats were fent to Long Ifland, to bring away the remainder of the hay, and our carpeiiter went over to the eaft-fj^lf of the found, to cut down ibmc fpars, which were ir.uch wanted. On their return, one of the boats was chaced hy a large double canoe, containing above fifty men, , -'..^ Prudence dictated to eftedl an elcape by failing, for . i^' though the Indians might have no hollile intentions, yet this was a ncccfTary caution. Friday the 4th of June, being his Majefty's birtli-day, we hoilicd our colours, and prepared to celebrate the day with the ufual feftivitier. Early in the morning, our friends brought us a large fupply of fifli. One ct them promircd to accompany us in our voyage, but jifcer wards altered his mind, as did alfo fome otheis who hai CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 735 had made a like promife to the people of the Adven- ture. It was very common for thcie pccple to bring their children with ihem, not with the unnatural inten- tion of felling them as was reportf d, but in expectation that we would make them prefcnts. A man brought his foa, a boy about ten years of age, and prcfcntcd hirri toCapt. Cock, wh(. thought at lirft he wanted to fell him : but wc foon found the delire of the father was inclined only towards a white fhirr, which was given to his Ton. The boy was fo liighly deliglited with liis new prment, that he wcnr all over the Ihip, prefentinghin:- feif before every one who came in his way. This freedom, or perhaps the colour of his drefs, or the l>oy's antic gcflures, off'rn'led old V/iil, the ram goat, who by a fudden butt knocked him backwards on the deck. Thefliirt was dirtied ; the mir.fortune Icemcd irreparable to the boy, who feared to appear before his father in the cabbin, until brought in by Mr Fuiib^r ; when he told a very lamentable ilory againil Gourey, the great dc .nj (for fo they called all the qu »drupcds we had aboard) nor would he be reconciled till his fnirt was wafhed ai:d 1 dried. From this trifling (lory may be fccn liow^ liable we are to miftake thele people's meaning, and to alcriLe I to them culloms they are utter itrangers to. This day I a large double canoe approached, well manned : it came within mufquet fl^.ot, and contained about thirty men. Our friends on board told us they were enemies very earneftly. Among^ thcfe new vifitcrs, one flood at the head of the canoe, and another at the iiern, while tlic reft kept their feats. One of them held a green bough, the New Zealand flag, in his hand, and fpoke a few words. The other made a long harangue, m folemtv and v/ell articulated founds. Being invited aboard, he. atlaft ventured, and w^as foi!ov/cd foon by the reli, who Mgerly traded x.iih us. They diredly faluted the natives on board, by an application of their uofes, and' paid the fame compliment 10 the gentlemen on the (luarter-deck. The chiefs name was Teiraiu. They Uli enquired for Tupia, and were much conceiTied- at hear- 73« CAPTAIN COOK'S SF.COND VOYAGR. hearing; of his death. Thefe people were taller than any we had hitherto ieen in New Zealand, and iheir drds and ornaments befpoke them fnporior to the inhabitanij of Qncon Charloite*s Sound. Their tools were made with great attention, and were elegantly carved : we obtained a few of thefe, and alfo foine mufical irillrji- ments from them. They made hut a fhort flay, and, embarking, they all went over to Mortuara, v\here, hy the help of our glaffej--, we difcovered four or live canoes and fcvcral people on the fhorc. About noon Capt. Cook, accompanied by feveral other gentlemen, fcllrwcd them, and were rceived with every mark offnend(nii>. The Captain diftributed feveral prefents, among which were a great number of brafs medals infcribed with ilie king's title on one ii witli tlirce hogs, one of which was very imall, which we took notice ofl Soon after a perlon came to the king, and fecmcd to fpeak very peremptorily ahont the hoQ% and we thought he was angry with him forgiving us fo many, and moreio •when he took the little pig away with him ; but we were much miltaken, for foon after we were gone,| another hog was brought to us, larger than the other two. The king focmed much affcdcd when Capt. Cook told him he Ihould leave the ifland the next day. They embraced each other fcveral times, and departed, On the ill of September we determined todepart,as the fick were nearly recovered, the neceflary repairs c{| the fiiip WTrc compfcated, and plenty of water provided, Mod of the day was employed in unmooring the Uilps; and in the afternoon the Lieutenant returned, who had been fent for the hogs promifed. With him came Pot* tatou (the chief of the diftridH: of Attahourou) with his wife, to pay Capt. Cook a vifir, and made him a prel'ent| of two hogs and fome li(h. The Lieutenant got like- wife two more hogs. As the wind was wefterly, we were obliged to difmifs our friends fooner than they j wifhed ; but they were very well fatisfied with the re- ception they met with. A young man, named Poreo, came on board fome hours before we got under fail, and j defired to go with us, to which we confented ; and at the fame time he alked for an axe and a fpike nail for his father, who came with him on board. They were accordingly given him, and they parted with great indif- ference, which feemed to indicate that they had deceived | us, and no fuch confanguinity fubfilled. Prefently a i " - cauoe, CA1»TAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 74^ canoe, concluded by two men, came alongfidc, and demanded Poreo in the name of Otoo. We informed them that we would part with him if they would return the hatchet and fpike nail, but they laid ihey were alhore ; io the young gentleman failed along with us, though he wept when he faw the land at our flern. On the fccond wo lleered our courie for the ifland of Huaheinc, and the Refolution anchored in twenty-four fathoms water on the third inllant, but the Adventure got alliorc on the north-lide of the channel, but fhe was happily got off again without receiving any damage. The natives received us with the utmoiL cordiality, feve- ral of whom came on board before our commanders went on (hore. Some ])rcfcnts were diftiibuted amongfl th m, which were gratefully returned by a plentiful fupply of hogs, fruit, &c. Here we had a fine prof^ I^ed of being plentifully lupplied with frefti pork and fowls, which was to us very pleafinpf. Two trading j)arties were fent aihore on the fourth inftant, which were very well conduded. Capt. Cook was informed that Oree was (till alive, and waited to fee him. The commanders, with Mr Forller, went to the place appoint- ed for the interview, accompanied by one of the natives. The boat was landed before the chief's houfe, and we were defired to remain in it till the necellary ceremony- was gone through. Inhere flood dole to the fhorc five young plantain trees, which are their emblems of peace : thefe were, wirh fome ceremony, brought on board fc- parately. The firll three were each accompanied by a young pig, whofe ears were ornamented with cocoa-nut tibres; the fourth- plantain tree was accompanied by a (loR. All thefe had particular names and meanings, which we could not luiderltand. The chief had care- fully preferved a piece of pewter, with an infcription on it, which Capt. Cook had prefented him with in 1 760, together with a piece of counterfeit Englifh coin, which, with a few beads, were all in the fame bag the Captaia made for them ; thele the chief fent on board. This part of the ceremony bciiig over, we were defired by our Vol. i.—N^ip. ^ B guide 74^ CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGfi. guide to decorate three young plantain trees with naily, looking-glafles, beadn, medals, 6cc. With thefe in our hands we landed, and were conduded through the multitude. We were directed to lit down a few paces before the chief, and the plantains were laid one by one before him. We were told that one was for God, an- other for the king, and the third for friendlhip. This being done, the king carhe to Captain Cook, fell on his neck, and kified him. A great efFufion of tears fell down the venerable cheeks of this old man ; and if ever tears fpoke the language of the heart, furely thefe did. Prefents v/ere made to all his attendants and friends. Captain Cook regarded him. as a father, and therefore prefented him with the moft valuable articles he had. lie gave the Captain a hog, and a good deal of cloth, with the promife that all his wants mould be fupplid. Soon after we returned on board, fourteen hogs were fent us, with fowls and fruit in abundance. In the morning of the 5th inftant we were viflted by this good old man, who brought a hog and fome fruit ; indeed he fent the Captain every day ready drefled fruit and roots in great plenty. This morning the lieutenant Went on fhore in fearch of more hogs, and returned in the evening with twenty-eight, and about feventy more ^^ere purchafed on fhore. On Monday the 6th of September the trading party went on fhore as ufual ; it only confifted of three peo- ple. Captain Cook went on (hore after breakfafl, and learnt that one of the inhabitants had been very infolent and troublefome. This man was fticwn to the Captain, equipped in his war habit, and he had a club in each hand. The Captain took theie from him, as he per- ceived him bent on mifchief, broke them before his face, and obliged him to retire. The Captain being informed that this man was a chief, became a little fufpici6t» of him, and fent for a guard. About this lime a ^etitleman had gone out botanizing alone ; two men aflaulted him, and ibi^ped him of every thing but his trowfers i luckily they did him no harm, hough they CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 747 they ftruck him feveral times with liis own lianger. They made off when they had done this, and another of the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him. This gentleman prefently ayipeared at the trading- place, where a number of the natives were aflembled, wlio all fled at feeing him. Captain Cook perfuaded fome of them to return, afluring them that none ftiould fuffer who were innocent. When the king heard this com- plaint, he and his companions wept bitterly ; and as ibon as his grief was aflliaged, he made a long harangue to the people, telling them the bafenefs of fuch adions, when the Captain and his crew had always behaved fo well to them. He then took a particular account of the things the gendeman liad loft, and promifed they iliould be returned, if it was in his power to 6nd them. After this he defircd Captain Cook to follow him to the boat, but the people bein^ apprehenfive of his fafe^ ty, ufed every argument to diflhade him firom it. It is impoflible to deicribe the grief they exprefled in the intreaties they ufed ; every face was bedewed with tears, and every mouth was filled with the moft dif- fuafive arguments. Orec was deaf to them all, and iiiiifted on going with the Captain ; when thiy both were in the boat, he defired it might be put off. The only perfon who did not oppofe his going, was his filter, and ftxe fhewed a magnanimity of fpirit equal to her brother. We proceeded in fearch of the rob- bers, as far as it was convenient by water, and thea landed, l^he chief led the way, travelled feveral miles, and enquired after them of all he faw. We then v/ent into a cottage, and had fome refrefliment. The king wanted to proceed farther, and was with great difficulty diffuaded from it by Capt. Cook. When we returned to the boat we were met by the king's fifter, who had travelled over land to that place, accom* panied by feveral other perfons. The king infifted on going into the boat with us, as well as his fifter, ,Ve returned to the ftiip, and the king made a very 5 B 5j hearty " ■: V'"** '^"'**, ■* ' ' ~ vi<"5' ■ -<■■, -; 748 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. hearty dinner ; though his filter, according to cuflom, ate nothing. We made them fuitable prelents for the confidence they had placed in us, and fet them afhore amid ft the acclamations of multitudes. Peace was now perfe^ly re-eftabiifhed, provifions poured in from all quarters, the gentleman's-tianger and coat were returned, and thus ended thefe troublefome tranfadtions. We went to take our leave of Oree while the fhips were unmooring, and prefented him with things both valuable and ufeful. We left him a copper-plate with this infcription. " Anchored here, his feritannic Ma- jefty's fhips Refolution and Adventure, September 1773." After we had traded for fuch things as we wanted, we took our leave, which' was a very affec- tionate one. On returning to the (hips, they were crouded, as on our arrival, with canoes filled with hogs, fowls, &c. Soon after we were on board, the king came, and informed us that the robbers were taken, and defired us to go on fhore, that we might behold their exemplary punifhment. This we Ihould have been glad to have done, as fo much pains had been taken to difcover them ; but it was out of our power, as the Advetfture was out of harbour, and we were under fail. The good old king ftaid with us till we were near two iniles out at fea, and then, after taking another affec- tionate leave, parted. During our ftay here, we prOf cured upwards of three hundred hogs, befides fowls and fruit in great abundance. Before we quitted this ifland, Captain Furneaux agreed to receive on board his fhip a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea, where he had had feme property, of which he had been diipofTeffed by the- peo- ple of Bolabola. Captain Cook wondered that Captain Furneaux would encumber himrelf with this man, who, in his opinion, was not a prc^per fample of the inhabi- tants of thefe happy iflands, not having any advantage of birth, or acquired rank, nor being eminent in fliape, figure or complexion ; for their people of the firft rank gre much fairer, and ufually better behaved, and more CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 74f Intelligent, than the midtlling clafs of people, among whom Oiiiai is to be ranked. The Captain, however, llince his arrival in England, has been convinced of his error j * for excepting his complexion, (which is un- doubt- • Omal has certainly a very good undcrftanHing, quick parts, and honell principles ; he is of good natural behaviour, which rendered him acccpt^^ble to the hti\ company, and a proper degree of pride, which taught him to avoid the focietyof perfoiis of in- ferior rank. He has paffions of the fame kind as other young men, but has judgment enough not to indulge them in any improper degree. I do not imagine that he has any dillike to liquor, and if he had fallen into company where the perfon who drank the molt, iiiet with the moft approbation, 1 have no doubt, but that he would have endeavoured to gain the applaufc of thofe with whom he aflbciatcd ; but fortunately for him, he, perceived that drinking was very little in ufe but among inferior people, and as he was very watchful into the manners and condudl of the perfons of rapk who honoured him with their proteftion, he was fober and modcit, and I never heard that, during the whole time of his flay in Eng- land, which was two years, he ever once was difguifed with wine, or ever lliewed an inclination to go beyond the ftrifteft rules of moderation. — Soon after his arrival in "London, the Earl of Sand- wich, the firft Lord of the Admiralty, introduced him to his Ma- jefty at Kew, when he met M'ith a moft gracious reception, and imbibed the ftrongeft impreffion of duty and gratitude to that great and amiable Prince, which I am perfuaded he ■will prefcrvc to the lateft moment of his life. During his (lay among us he was carefled by many of the principal nobility, and did nothing to for- feit the eileem of any one of thern ; but his principal patrons were the Earl of Sandwich, Mr Banks, and DrSoIander; the former probably thought it a duty of his oihce to protefl and countenance an inhabitant of that hofpitable country, where the wants and dif- trelTes of thofe in his department had been alleviated and fupplied inthemod ample manner; the others, as a tellimony of their gratitude for the generous reception they had met with during tlicir refidence in his country. It is to be obferved, that though Omai lived in the midft of amufements during his refidence in England, his return to his native country was always in his thoughts, and though he was not impatient to go, he exprefTed a fatisfadlion 3s the time of his return approached. He embarked with me in the Rcfolution, when flie was fitted out for another voyage, load- "d with prefents from his feveral friends, and full of gratitude for ^}e kind rcccj^tion and treatment he hid experii^nced among us. 75* CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. doubtedly of a deeper hue than that of the Earea of gentry, who, as in other countries, Hve a more luxurious iife, and are lefs expofeil to the heat of the fun) he doubts whether any other of the natives would havt given him more general fatisfadion by his behaviour | among them. On Wednefday the 8th, we entered the harbour cfl Ohamaneno; the natives crouded about us with hogs and fruit as foon as we were anchored. We refufcd the hogs, as we had already more than we could manage; but feveral of the principal people obliged us to take them whether we woukl or no. We made a viiit on the I • c)th to Oreo, who is the chief of this part of the ifland .triietea. He exprefled great fatisfadion on feeing Capt. Cook again, and defircd him to exchange names with him, which the latter agreed to : this is a diftinguifhing mark of friendfhip. Here we traded as ufual» but tiie ba- lance of trade was much in our favour. On the i oth, the chief eiiteitained us with a comedy ; a very entertaining part of which was a theft, committed, with amazing dexterity, by a man and his accomplice. Before the thief has time to carry off the prize, he is difcovercd, and a fcuffle enfues ; tlie difcoverers are vanquifhed, ajid the thieves go off in triumph. We returned to dinner after -the play was over, and as we were walking on the ihore in the evening, one of the natives informed us that there were nine uninhabited iOands to the weft- ward. Oreo and his fon paid us a vifit early in the morn- ing of tl. t 1 1 th of September, and brought, as ul'ual, hogs and fruit with them. We drell'ed the youth in a (hirt, and fome other articles, of which he was not a little proud. After flaying fome hours, they went afhore, arrd fo did Capt. Cook loon after, but to another part cfthe fhore. When the chief heard he was •landed, lie went of his own accord and put a hog and fome fruit in the boat, and returned without laying any thing of it to any other perfon. He afterwards came with fome friends to dinner. After dinner, Pp-oorau, who > ;. r'j ^^.. yi^ CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 75^ rhois the moR eminent chief of the ifland, made us a /ifit. He was introduced by Oreo, and brought a prc- Ifent with him ; for which he received a. handlonio re- Iturn. We promifed to vilit both the chiefs the next Imoming : which we.accordingly did, in company with Ifeveral gentlemen. Another play was aded, and two very pretty young women performed, othcrwiib this piece was not fo entertaining as the one we law be- Itbre. On the 14th, we fert on fliore for a fupply of ban a- Inoes and plantains, for fea ft ore. Oreo and Ibme friends paid us a pretty early vilit, when we informed him, that we would dine with him on (bore, and delired he would let us have two pigs for dinner dreiled in their falhion. We found the floor of the chief's houfe flrewed thick with leaves, and we were foon feated round them. Soon after the pigs came tumbling over pur heads upon the leaves ; and they were both fo hot as fcarcely to be touched. The table was ornamented with hot breadfruit and plantains: we had lilcewilc a quantity of cocoa-nuts to drink. We never faw vie-' tuals drefled cleaner nor better in our lives, and they. had a moft exquifite flavour, much fuperior to viduals dreffed in our mode ; how they contrived if we cannot tell, but though one of thefe hogs weighed fifty pounds at leaft, it was well done in every part, and not too much done in any. Oreo and his ion, with fome male friends, dined with us. We had a great number of I attendants and people who came to fee us thus dine in Mic, to whom pieces of "pork were handed. The chief did not refuie his glafs of Madeira whenever it came to his tiirn, and we never at this, or any other I time, faw him affected by it. The boat's crew took the remainder when we had dined. In the afternoon we were again entertained with a play. On the 15th, we had a fuflicient proof of the timor- ous difpofition of thefe people. We rather wondered that none of them came to the (hips as ufual. We were airaid that as two men of the Adventure's crew ftaid out 752 CAFFAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. out all night contrary to orders, that tlie natives had ilripped them, or done them fome other injury, and were afraid we ihould revenge their conduct. \Vc went afliore, and found the »ieighbour!iQod nearly de- ferted. Prefently the two men made their appearance, and reported that they had been very civilfy treated. We could get no account of the caul'e of their flight, and could only learn from a few perfons who ventured near us, that feveral were killed and wounded, and pointed to their bodies where the balls of the guns went in and out. Captain Cook was very unealy at this relation, fearing for the fafety of the people gone to Otaha. In order to get the beft information, the Cap- tain determined to go to the chief himfelf, whom,'kfter much fearching for, he found feated under the fhade of a houfe, with a great many people round him. '1 here was a great lamentation as foon as ' Captain Cook ap- proached, the chief and all his company burfting into tears. After all this piece of work, it was found that the caufe of their alarm was on account of our boats be- ing abfent, fuppofmg that the people in them had de- ferted us, and that we ihould adopt violent methods to recover them. They were fatistied when Captain Cook aflured theiti there was no caufe for alarm, and that the boats would certainly return. On the morning of the 1 6th, we paid the chief a vifit, who was in his own houfe in perfect tranquillity. At this time Poreo left us. CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. ^^J A Spanijh Ship "Jt/its Oiaheite.Statc of the JJIands^-^Re^ marks on the Difeafcs and Cujioms of the Natives. — Mtf" taken Notions concerning the Women^ correded. — T^offagt from Ulietea to the Friendly Ifles^ — Hcrvcys JJland difco* vered. — Incidents at Middleburgh.' — The two Ships ar^ rive at Amflerdam, — A Place of Worjhip defcribed. — /«-. cidents that happened during their Stay at that I/Iand.—^ The above Iflands defcribed. — Their Produce— ^Cultiva- tion — Houfcs — Canoes — Navigation — Manufa^ures'-^-— Weapons — Cufloms — Government — Religion and Language if the Inhabitants, ON the 1 7th of September, being Friday, we de- termined to put to lea, having a good fupply of all kinds of refrefhments. Before we failed, Oreo aad hivS fon paid us a vifit. Several canoes filled vfrith fruit and hogs furrounded us ; of the latter we could receive no more, our decks being lb crouded with them that we could fcarcely move, in both Ihips were about three hundred and fifty. Oreo and his friends did not leave us till we were under fail, and earneltiv importuned us to tell them when we (liould return. Captain Cook, aa many young men offered to come away with us, took one on board, about eighteen years of age, named Oedi- dee, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of the great Opoony, chief of the ifland. When we were out of harbour and had made fail, a canoe was obferved following us conducted by two men ; whereupon we brought to, and when alongfide, they^ delivered to Captain Cook a prefent of roafted fruit, and roots. Vol. L— N*! i^ §Q from ?54 CAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGE% from Oreo. The Captain, after having made a proper return^ fet fail to the weft, with the Adventure in com- 1 pany. We fhall here give fome further accoimt of tliele iflands, fome things, which are rather intercfting, hav- ing been omitted in the relation of daily tranfadtionj and incidents. A few days after our arrival at Otaheite we were toIJ, that a fliip, about the fize of the Refolution, liad vifit- ed Owhaiurua Harbour, at the S. E. end of the ifland; at which place, after having remained three v;eek?;, f}.2 departed about three niontlis before our arrival. Foui of the natives v\'fnt away in her, v;hofe names were Dcbcdebca, Paoodou, Tanadooee, and Opahiah. We ronjedured Ihe was a French fliip, but at the Cape of Good Hope, we were informed flie was a Spaniard, fent out from America. 'Ihe natives of Otaheite com- plained of a diforder communicated to them by the people in this Ihip, which they defcribed as affeding the head, throat, and lloinach, and at length they faid it killed them. The Ihip they called Pahai-no Peppe (piip of Peppe) and the difeafe they named Apaiio rep-pe, jail as they call the veneral difeafe Apano IVe- tane (En^lifa difeafe) yet to a man, they fay this loath* fome diflemper was introduced among them by M. de Bougainville ; and they thought he came from rretane, as well as every other (hip that touched at the iflaud. We were of opinion, that long before thefe iflanciers were vifited by Europeans, this, or a difeafe near a-kin to it, had exifted among them j for they told us peo- ple died of a diforder, which we imagined to be vene- real, before that period. But be this as it may, the dif- eafe is far lefs common among them than it was in 1 769^ when we firft: vifited thefe ifles. In the years 1 767 and 1 768, the ifland of Otaheite, as it were, Iwarmed with hogs and fowls ; but at this time it was fo ill fupplied with thefe animals, that hard- ly any thing could tempt the owners to part with them ; and the little ilock they had feetued to be at the dif- / -r ^ pofal CAPTAIN COOK'6 SECOND VOYAGE. /<• 7^5 pofal of their kings. When we lay at Oaiti-piha Bay, ' in- the kingdom of Tiarrabou, or leffer I'eninfula, we were given to undcrftand, that every hnjr and fowl be- longed to Waheatoua ; and that all in the kingdom of Opoureonn, or the greater peniufula, belonged to Otoo. while at this ifland we got only 24 hogs in 17 days ; half of which came from the kings rheinlelvea, and the etfier half we were inclined to tliink were fold us by their permiffion. But with refpeeen done the women of the Society Tflcs, by thofe vrho have reprefentcd them as a race of proftitutcs without exception, who will fell their favours for gain to any purchafer, which is f;r Iroia being true; for the enjoyment of either the married or unmarried wo- men, of the higher and middling chifes, is a favour as difficult to be obtained here, as in any other country whatever, and even many women in the lower cla4 will admit of no fuch familiarities. That the propi r- tion of proftitutes are greater than that of other coun- tries may be true, and molt of them were fuch who fre- quented our (hips and tents on fhore. By obferving thefe to mix imlifcriminately with women of the firlt rank, vy'e concluded haftily that all females were of tlw fame turn, and that the only difference was in the price ; but the truth is, as we have more than once before ob- ferved, the woman who proftitutes herielf, does not leem, in the popular opinion, to have committed a crime, wjiich ought to exclude her from the efteem and ibciety of the community in general. It inuft be coii- feflfed that all the womea in this part of the world are complete coquets, and that few among them fix any bounds to their converiktion ; therefore it is no wonder that they have obtained the chara^er of women of pleafiire ; yet we fliould think it very unjuft, if the la- 20. ^ 5 D Forfter, 7^2 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. Forftc3', with his botanical party, and fomc other gentle- men, took a walk into the t ts to eomc Ion board, but without eff'ed;, as the rope we threw out Ito them broke, and we did not fhortcn fail. They [were likewife unfuccefsful in boardinf^ the Adventure. We ran along the fouth-weft coail of Amiicrdam, at ihe diftance of half a mile from the (liore, whereon the [ea broke in a great iurf. By the help of glaffes, we law the face of the whole illaud, whieh, in -every part [hat came under our obfervation, appeared covered with Idntatlons. Along the fliore we perceived the natives running in great numbers, and difplaying fmall white lags, the emblems of peace, which fignals we anfwer- [d by hoiiling a St George's enlign. Ac this time tree of the natives of Middleburg, who had continued DO long on board the Adventure to return, quitted her, [lid fwam to the fhore, from whence we concluded ^ey had no ftrong inclination to accompany us in our loyao;e. We had no fooner opened the weft fide of iile, than fcveral canoes, having four men in each, be boldly alongfide, and wlien they had prefentcd us [ith fonie ava root, came on board without the leaft ce- pony. Having got into Van Diemen's Road, we khored in eighteen fathoms water, little more than a iMe's length rrom the breakers ; and our coafting an- lor, to keep the fliip from tailing on the rocks, lay in [rty-feven fathoms water. By this time we were fm- pded with people, and our feamen w^ere io eager in frchafing their curiofitics, even at the expence of palhs, that Captain Cook found it abfolutely necelTary [prohibit any farther commerce of this i'ort. The good pt^^s of this order, was, that on the 4th, the natives 'Ugbt us fowls, pigs, bananoes, and cocoa-nuts in indance, for which we exchanged fmall nails and J D 3 pieces 7^4 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. pieces of cloth, even old rags would purchafe pigs andl towls. A trading parry w^s now ftttied, and our coinJ manders went on lliorc, attended by Mr Forftcr andl other officers, in company with a chief, named AttagoJ who had attached himfelf to Capt. (look, the firfi: ino-j nient of his coming aboard, which was before rhjl (hips came to anchor. This perlon of foinc note preJ fcnted the Captain wiih fcveral articles, and, as a grcaterl teftimony of iriendriiip, exchanged names withirim;a| cuflom, which, as we luive oblerved, is praclifed ,-i| Otaheite, and the Society Ifles. We were rccc'vcJrnl fhore with the fame deinondrations of joy as at MmIJU burg, and the gentlemen fet cut into the cour.trv, d ccpt the two commanders, who diftribnted pre'cn'siiif fuch of the natives as At';igo pointed out, who wereafj ter wards dlfcovered to be of fuperior rank to himlelfj though at thi;'. time, by the attention paid to himjia appeared to be the principal perfon. Having coirJ plained of the heat, Attago fhewed and feated us uvm the (hade or a larp^e tree ; and the people, who werJ ordered to form a circle, never attempted to pafs tlij prefcrihed bounds, and croud upon us, as did tlK)ie( Otaheite. After having been here fome time, we hiiitj ed our defire to fee the country ; whereupon AttagJ immediately conducted us along a lane that terminate in an open green, on one fide of which we faw a pbci •'of worlhip, built on a mount about eighteen feet higli It was an oblong fquare, inclofed by a ftone parapd wall, about three feet in height ; from which m mount, covered with green turf, rofe to the bu!ldin| with a gradual flope. The building was twenty J^J fourteen feet. When we had advanced within tftj yards of its front, every one fat down on the green Three elderly men, whom we took for the priefts, U gun a prayer, having their faces to the houie, whicj lafted, about ten minutes, and this being ended, thej came and feated themfelves by us. We made their prefents of what we had about us, and then proceedd to view the premiires, to which they did not ihew tlij CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 765 lead rcludlance. The lioufe Wtos built in every rcfpcdt like their commnri dwellings, with polls and rafters, covered with palm thatch. The eaves came down within three feet of the ground, and the open i'pacc was filled up Vvirh Itrong matdng m.Hle of palm leaves as a wall. In the front, leading to the top of this, weic t'.vo flone rteps ; and round the hoiife was a gravel walk : the floor alio was laid with iine gravel, in the cen?re where* )f was an oblong fqaue of blue pebbles, raifed fix inches hi[i;her. In one angle of the building ftood an image roughly carved in wood, and anothcT lay on one \]y\e. Tins image w.is turned over and over by Attago, as he would have done any other log of wood, which cor.vinced us that they were not conii- dcrc;d by the natives as objedn of worQiip. We put fevcral qneftions to Attago concerning this matter, but did not underrtand his anfwers ; for our readers are to be informed, that, at our firft arrival, we hardly could undcrftand a word the people laid. \Ve thought it ne- celTary to leave an offering, and therefore laid down up- on the platform fome medals, nails, and other things, which our friend immediately took up and put in his pocket. We could not conceive liow they could cut fuch large ftnnes out of the coral rocks, with which the walls were made that inclofed the mount, fome of them being ten feet by four, and near fix inches thick. The mount, which flood in a kind of grove, was open only to view on that fide which fronted the green, and here five roads met, moft of which appeared to be pub- lic. Among the various trees that conipol'ed the groves, we found the Etoa tree, of which are made clubs, and a fort of low palm, very common in the northern parts of Holland, This place of worfliip, in the language of Amfterdam, is called A-fia-tou-ca. On our return to the water-fide, wc turned off to a road leading into the country, about fixtetn feet broad, and as level as a bowling-green, feve'al other roads in- terfered it, all inclofed on each fide with neat reed- fences, and fhaded by fruit-trees. The country here- abouts ';66 CAPTAIN COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. abouts is furprizingly fertile, inromiicli, tlia? we might cafily have imagined ourfelves in the moil: pleaiant iitiiation that Europe could afford. Here are various delightful walks, and not an inch of uncultivated ground. Nature, affifted by art, no where appears to more advantage than in this ferrile fpot. The roads, even the high public one, which was about fix- tcen feet broad, occupied no more fpace than was ab- folutely ncceliary, nor did the boundaries and fences toke up above four inches each, and in many places of thefe were planted ufeful trees antl plants. On every iidc you faw the fame appearances ; nor did change of place alter the fcene. In this tranfporting place we met great numbers of people going to the fliips loaden with iruit, and coming frorn them j all of whom gave us the road, by cither turning to the right or left hand, fitting down, or ftanding ftill with their backs to the fences, till we had pafled by them. In njany ofthe crofs roads, were A-fia-tou-cas, whofe mounts wire furroundeci with pallifadoes. After having walked feveral miles, we came to a more fpacious one, near to which was a large houle, the property of an old chief, who was one of our, company. Here we were regaled with fruit ; but our ftay was fbort, and our guides having condudled us down to our boat, we returned with Attago to our fhip to dinner. When aboard, an old man was uftiered into the cabbin : we placed him at table, and foon perceived he was a man of confequence, for Attago, the chief, be- ing almoft blind, eat with his. back towards him ; and as foon as the old man returned afliore, which was after he had taited the fifh, and drank two glafles of wine, Attago took his place at the table, bnifhed his dinner, and drank alio two glailes of wine. After dinner we all went afiiore again. We found the old chief, who, in return for his flender meal, jMcfentcd us with a hog. Before we fet out for the country, Cnptain Cook went down with Attago to the landing-place, where he found IV'lr Wales laughing at his perplexing fituation. The boats that brought us afhore not having been able to led o| tcr, themi in an I hind The fliarpl all hi croud] condit andft( \Ve Havin chief i ^' tAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 7(^7 get clofe in with the landing-place, Mr Wales had pul- led oft' hi^ Ihoes and ftockings to walk through the wa- ter, and, when on dry ground, iittlng down, he put them between his legs, in order to put them on, when in an inftant they were inatched away by a ])crron be- hind him, who immf:diately mixed with the croud. The man he could not follow bare-footed over the fiiarp coral rocks; the boat was put back to the fliip, all his companions had made their way through the croud ; and he was found by the C'aptain in this forlora condition : but the friendly Attago Toon fct him at li1)Cf- ty, by finding out the thief, and recovering the ihocs and rtockings. We now herran our excurfion into the country. Having pafibd the fu'Pi mentioned A-iia--tou-ca, the old cliicf ihcvvcd us a pool of frclh water, though we had not matle the leall en^ithoiit his fpcaking one wojxl, or turning liis head either to the right or left. We departed from tliii livijig flatue, anii had not hccn long on ho.^ird, before he icnt lis a pn lent of proviiions, conbfting of about twenty bafkets of roailed bananas, four bread and yams, and a mailed pig, weighing about twenty pounds. We now no hunger qucl^ianed the real dignity of this Allien chief. Wiien thefe things were brought down to tlK". water fide, Mr Edgecnnd^c and his party were coming oiFto the veirjls, and rhe bearers of die prefcnt laid it was frojn the Areeke, (that is king) oftheifland, to the Areekc of the (hip. OnThurlday the 7th of Odober, early in the morn- ing, our two commanders, accompanied by Mr Forller, went uflnore, to make a return to the Areeke of the illand for his lail night's prefcnt. They foon found At; ago, of wlioni we learnt, that his majefty's name was K.o-hag]ife-too>Fallangou. After fome little time he appeareil with a very ftw attendants. By Attago's deine we all fat down under a tree, and the king feated Iiimfe'fon a rifing ground, about twelve yards from us. We continued fome minutes fachig each other, expeO'ng Attawo would introduce us to hismajcily; hut ohierving no ligns of this, the two captains went, andv haviiig laluted the king, fat down by him. 71iey then put on him a white Ihirt, and laid down before him a few yards of red cloth, a brafs kettle, a faw, two large ipikes, three looking glaffes, twelve medals, and fome firings of beads. All this time he behaved in the manner before related, fitting like a ftatue ; his anus fecnied immoveable ; he Ipoke not one word, nor did he feem to know what we w^ere about. When we gave him to underftand by figns and words, that we ihoiild foon depart from his ifland, he made not the Icaft re- ply ; but when we had taken l^ave, we perceived he con- verfed with A^tago, and an old woman ; and in the courie CAPTAIN COOK'S .SECOND VOYAGE. 771 co'jric of hir. convcrfat'on he l:ir.r;hc:l Iieartily in fpite of his .uTamcd gravity ; ir,T it coiitd not Vni his real clifpo- litinn, Icfii);; hv. was in the inhne of life, and thdh in.jiidcrs, like all otficrs wo liad, lardy hecn acqii.iir.tcJ with, are nwich |^iv\ n to le^ ity. We were now inn'c- tluccc! by Attagc) into another circle of rerpeclablco'd |)coj)le, of hotli fexes, <»moTii; whom were or.r frictivl, the aged chief, and the priell:, who wav*-^ j^eneriilly in his Lompany. We conelnded, that the JMXC of pcppcr- root, had the fame tiiWA that (Iron;:: l-qiu/ry have on Europeans, when they drink too niuch of thfm ; for wo ohlerved, that the leverend father could walk very well in the momiiij^, but in the evening was generally led home by two friendly fiipporters. We were a little at a lofs to take leave of the old chief, havir^g, we ieared, a;rnoil exhaufted all ourchoicdl ilore on the king; hut having examined our pockers, and Gapt. Conk's trea- liiry bag, which he always carried wicii liim, we colle<^- Ci\ together a tolerable gooti prefent both for the chief and his friends. This old chief ha I a natural air of dignity, which the king had. not. He v^as grave, but not fallen ; would talk at times in a jocular mai>ne!\ and when converling only on indilfcrent iubje^ls, would endeavour to underhand U'', and be underilood himielf. The prielt in all our viiirs would repeat a fliort prayer, which none in the company attended to, and w^liich for our parts we did not underlland. Havii?g con'^'nucd a focial converfation wiih thefc friends near two hours, we hid theni farewe*!, and repaired to our Ihip with Atrago, and a few of his friends, who after breakfaft were ciifmifled load'..d with prei'ents. Attago very liroogly importuned us to call again at this ille on our return, and requei'lcd of the cnotain, more tlian once, to bring hiin a luit of clothes like tliofe lie tlicn had on, which was his uniform, 'lids friendly iflandor, rJuring our Rav, was, on feveral occahons, very ferviceable to us. Ke daily carne 0!i beard m the nion ting, loon atier daivn, and frequently (laid wi:h w. \\\\ the evening. ^ Whea on board or on Ihore, he pcribrmcd every kiod r E 2 oihce 772 CAPTAIN COOK'3 SECOND VOYAGI!. pfTlce for us Is his power, the expence for his fervices wa3 trifling, and wc thoii^^ht him a very valuable frientl. The fupplies which we [>rocured from this ifland were i'hout one hvmtlred and fifty pip;*"', double that number of fowb; as many bananas, &c. as wc could fmd room for, and, had we continued longer, we might have had more than our wants required. We wti; now about to depart, when, in heaving the coafliri^ ral.»le, it broke, by being chafred by the rocks ; by which accident we loll nearly haif the cable, together ■with the anchor, which lay in forty fathoms water, without any buoy to it ; from whence a judgment iiiav be formed of this ancliorage. At ten o'clock P. M, we . got under fail, but cur decks being encumbered with fruit, fowls, &c. we kept plying under the land till they were cleared. Before we continue the hiftory of this voyage, we Ihall here give a particular account of this ifland, and iti neighbouring one of Middleburgh. I'hefe two iflands were firft difcovered hy Captain Abel Janfen Tafman, a Dutchman, in January 1642-3, ■which he named Amfterdam and Middleburgh. The former is called by the natives Tonga-ta-bu, and the latter Ea-00-wee. From obfervations made on the fpot, they are found to be fituated between the latitude of 21 d. 29 m. and 21 d. 3 m. S. and between the longi- tude of iy/\. d. 40 m. and 175 d. 15 m. W. Middle- burgh, the fouthormoft ifle is about ten leagues in cir- cumference, and, (rom its height, may be leen twelve leagues at fea. \t is bounded by plantations, efpecially on the S. \V. and N. W. fides ; but the interior parts are not fo well cultivated ; yet even this negleQ gives an additional beauty to the whole ifland ; for here we fee difperfed, formmg an agreeable variety, groves of cocoa-nut and other trees, lawns cloathed with thick grafs, with plantations, roads, and paths in every di- iredion, making a charming confuuon, as greatly im- proves and enlivens the proipedt. The ifland of Tongatabu, or Amfterdam, is fliaped fom^ CAPTAIN C00K»8 SrXOND VOYAGE. 773 fomcthinjT like an ifofecles trianglo, tlir lonj^eft lv?j^<) of which are (even leagues each, and the (horrefi: tour. It lies nearly in the dirc(ftion of E. iS. K. and W. N. W. much of an equal heipht, hut ratlier low, hcing not more than eighty feet ahove tlie level of the fca. Both this ifle, and that of Middlcburgli, arc pjnarded by a reef of coral rocks, on which the forcf^ of the Tea is fpent before it reaches the Ihore. Viin DIcmen's Road wherein wc anchored, is under the N. W. part of the iiland, having a reef of rocks ^'.Ithnut it, f)vcr which the fea breaks continually. The extent of the bank is not more than three caWes' lenj;th from the flicrc; without that is an unfathomable depth ; and, as we have before obferved, the lofs of an anchor, and the damage cur cables fuftaincd, are plain indications that the Ijot- tom is none of the heft. This ifland is wholly laid out in plantations, abounding with the richeft produdions of nature, as bread-fruit, plantains, fugar-cane, and a fruit like a nectarine, called iighega, and at (Jtaheite ahuya : in ftiort, here are to be found moft of the ar- ticles, produdlions of the Society Illands, befides others which they have not The fame may be faid of veget- ables, the llock of which wc increafed by an additional aflbrtment of garden feeds, &c. The produce and cul- tivation of Middleburgh is much the fame as at Am- fterdani, only a part of the former is cultivated. The lanes and roads are laid out in fo judicious a manner, as to open a free communication from one part of the ifland to the other. \Ve here faw no towns or villages, moft of the houfes beinj fituated in the plantations ; they are neatly conftruded, but in their dimenfions do not exceed thofe in the other iflands. The only differ- ence feems to confift in the difpofition of the framing. They have fmall areas before moft of them, planted round with trees, or ftirubs, whofe fragrancy perfumes the very air. The whole of their furniture is com- pofed of a few wooden platters, cocoa-nut flielk, and lome neat wooden pillows fhaped like ftools or forms. Their commoa cloathing ferves them for bedding, with tUq XT'I CAPTAIN COOK*£ SECOI\'D VOYAGE, iffie pxldition of a mat. Vv^e fnw ^w^ or tlirec e.'^J'^^'eu ■wctTels amonp; them ; or.e in the ll\:.pc of a bomb-OuIi, wi^h two i)Cilcs in il\ rppolitc each r,tl.cr ^ Jhe otiiers idernbicd pipkin?, contairiinp; ab'.>ut live or liv pisijj. Having icen no (^n.-at numrur of thcfe iitcavds, v**;: jfCMKliit'cd they were tlie maiu.ifaclare of ih'MO odifrr ^e. The onh' domeftic i^Qimals we hv,' am'jufr them •were hogs and fowls. l*he (arrer aiv iin li^ge a 1 /X.Y.I 1. 1 Europe, and their i^^sCa cquuh g<>od, Ir not We believe they h.^ve no tioj;*;, ss tricy were very cie- §rous of thofe we had on hoard. In thcle ii'lti are no xats. nor di<1 w^ tfitrover a'v wihl qajrdrupeds, ckczv^: fnall Ii:^rds. TI>e land h/irds a:e pigGi^ns, lurt'c-doves, jjiirrots, parroqucts, owls, hakkoots with a blae psu- j«rage, iinall birds, and ^arj^e bats ih alnmdarice. Ti\t iime forts of hfl-i are ff)urid here as in othtr iiles. Tlieir fi{hin«;-tackle is mudi the tan?.e ; a.^ hook<> nrudc ©1" mother of pearl, gij^.s havin{^ two or tliree prongs, and nets compofcd of a veiy fine thread, with the mtfties made exaClly like ours. The confh-iiclion of tlheir canoes is remarkably inj;c!iioits, exceeding in ple and iii\f^le ,, the lingle one':, are from tv\e;>ty" to thiriy (eeC in 'ei\q:th, and idx)nt twcuty or tvvciUy- itwo inches broat' in the middle. Tiie iiern terniinates in . point, and thehead is fi>mc- •«?hat like the extremity of a wed'^•:;. At each end is a ilindofdeck, open in the ndddle, for about one third pan of th;;' whoie length. The middle of their decks in iome of them, is oraaniented vntli white Iheifs, lUick «vn little pt'gs, and j>laced in lows. 'Iliey work tlieie i'ngle cai-'oes fometimea with fa.ils, but oftener widi ■jiaddles, thefliort blat'es whereof are L>roa^:'.il in the laiddle : the} have all our-riggers* Tii€ doiibie canoes arc m^ide wijh two Trellels about toy nv.ildle] i JiiFers Icing they h. jbmcw! an>ipa*^ hich vej each, ox hv h::nl 10 nnic t are not <| frofti on i,ittean-{ ulittieci and thei lit je ihk from th a mov( wooder form is out tlie double that in hell; h not ha ir.afl ai fro f 11 u The was a CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. !?:f [lirvhr or fcventy fe€t lnni.ir or fire broad in t!« nv.iUile. Each end termlnil^c^; in a po'n^r, and xUq hiM. ili/^fcrs !)nt Urtlc in its cort(irQ(fl)n?i TrDja tht; {'v.iy^h canoc^ being put togctlier cxacllv in the ianie manner; i>;3j: they h'Xy'ci 2. rihiig in tire nii(k]le rotmd the open pai"t, jbmewhat Wlic a trougli wliicii is made of bc:;id.% wdU anv!ipa«5ted.and iecured to the body of the veir.i. 'iV^ iiich vfJlels as above mtentio'ied are p'l'ced parallel to each other, and fliiiened by flr^jng crofs i)eiin!Lr,, fcaire^i bv b:inda[^es to the i^ppcr p.irt of the ri^ii^i;:;^. Tke vdlcls are about iix fiicr afunucr. Over theil" be.iiiss, wvA others, fupported by liaun.cbif.ons fixed on the b.*)dii:* C't tiiC canoes, is laid a boarded platfonn, where llep* 2 mill that may eafdy be railed or let dcr-.vn. All j:axj» cf die double canoes are ilroncr, yet as liglu r.> iirnis, without being in the k^rtil danger of filling ; ^.nd fo long as tli.-^y hold. t(geth,el; ills fcsr:e p.olLi:)!e, under any circinniuince whaleves', ti) fir/iv thcrn. Ey thz nature c;f their con It ruclion, they ■6\x novonly,vr-5TeP. of burden, bia iit for ihort voyages frorti one iiland to anoilier, Liiid. are navij>-ited vviii a i,ittean-{ail, or triangnlnr o:ic, c\rcr:dcd by a lom^ y' a'^^ .\ little curved or b^ent, .Their ktiU are conipoied <,f inats, and their ropes like our'-,, loroe fonr or five ii u:he;-. A lit.ie ilied if. I'aiied upon the phitforrn, to fc:reen tlie crew irmi the fun, aivd for o" her purpofe^^. Here tlvey Itive a moveable f.re-hearrli, which is a Iqua^e fbailow wooden trough, filled with (loQes. Vvam off the |i!at- form is the way into the hold, wlicrtin they llantl to i)all cuttlie Witter. Qtpt. (look was o.^' opinion, that thek doubl<» canoes are navigated ci:her eiid fore mo Ir, and that in changiiir? tad:?, the inil is only Ihihed, or gii>- bed; but we cannot fpe;d< wi'di certainty of this matter,, not Kavinpj leen any of fueni inider iail, or with tii^ iTiafl and iaii an end, but what were at a great didance troaiu«*. The only piece of iron we faw among thefe \ eopJe was a fixiall awl, which had been made of a nail ; ail their 'ili CAPTAIN COCK'S SECOND VOYACi. their working tools are of Hone, bone, Ihells, &c. as at the other iilimds. Every one who fees the work exc- ciUed with thefe tooh, cannot but be fti'uck with admi- ration at both the ingenuity anti patience of the artificer;;. They had liulc knowledge of the utility of iron, but enough to prefer nails to beads, and fuch trities. Shirts, cloth, jackets, and even rags, were more efteeitied b> them thiin the beft cdf^ed tool, en which account we parted with few axes but what were given TiR I)refent8; however, if we include the nails exchanji^ed for curioli- ties, by the companies of both fhips, with thofe given for refrelhments, &C. they could not get from us Ids than 5^00 weight, great and fmall. As to the natives cf thefe iflands, both fexes are of a common fize with Euvopeans ; but with refped to com- plexion, their colour is that of a lighrifii i:>p;- r, and more uniformly fc than among thofe of Oiaheite and the Society Hies. Of our gentlemen, fome thought thefe people were a much handfomer race ; others were of a contrary opinion, of which number Capt* Cc ': was one. It is certain, that they have in general regular features with a g-^od ih^pc : they are alfo adtive, brifk, and lively. The women are cfpecially very merry and fociable, and would chat with us without being invited, or if we fecmed attentive, without conlidering whether we underftood them or not. They appeared in general to be mcdeil : yet inftaiices of thofe of a different chara^er were not wanting ; and having fome venere-' tunity of ftealing one of the feamen's hag of deaths, which with fome difficulty, we recovered. This made our 704 CAPTAIN CdOK's SECOND VOYAGE. our people more cautious in future. We found one of the lows which Capt. Furneaux had put on ihore, and "were informed that the boar and other fow u ere taken to another part, but not killed. We were mortitied very much when we heard that old Goubiah hid killed the two goats which Captain Cook put on fhore, and were concerned to think that our endeavours to ftock this country with ufeful animals were likely to be rendered fruitlefs by thofe very people for whofc benefit they were defi^^ned. But nature had amazingly aflifted our intentions in the gardens, where every thing was in a flouriftiing ftate, except the potatoes, which were moft of them dug up. We put on (bore another boar and ibw, *. ith two cocks and four hens. We purchafed a large quantity of fifli from the natives, who were very much mclined to theft ; we deteded them picking our pockets very frequently. Several ftrangers came to vifit us in five canoes, they took up their quarters in a cave near us, and decamped the next morning with lix of our fmall water cafks. All the. people whom we found on our arrival likewife went with them. Some of them returned in a day or two, and fupplied us with fifh. On Monday, the i j;th, we made a party to the fum- nut of one of the hills, m order to look for the Adventure, but were difappointed, and totally at a lofs to know what was become of her. When we returned, the natives were collected round our boat, to whom we made feme prefents, and went on board. We were verv well fup- plied wi*h fifli during our flay lisre. On tne 22d we took one boar and three fows, together with fome cocks and hens, into the woods, where we left them with provifion fufficient for ten or twelve days, with hopes that the natives would not difcover them till they had bred. Our officers having vifited the dwelling-places of feveral of the natives, found fome human bones, from vrhich the flefh appeared to be lately taken ; and on the 23d, they bein^ on fhore faw the head and bowels of a youth, lately killed, lying on the beac^i ; his heart was CAPTAIN •toes, and pkntains. We very foon found out that thel'e gentlemen were as expert thieves as any before met , •with ; we could fcarce Keep any thing in our pockets, und it was with fome difficulty that we could keep our hets upon our headvS. Thefe people feemed to under- ftand the ufe of a mufquet, and to be very much afraid of it. Here v«;ere feveral plantations of potatoes, iugar- canes,and plantains ; but otherwile the country appear- ed barren and 'without wood. We found a well of brackifli water, and faw fome fowls. As the naUves did not feem unwilling to part with thefe articles, and as we were in want of them, we determined to ftay a fe^7 daysr A trade was accordingly opened with the natives, and we got on board a few caiks of water. A party of officer."- and men were fent up the country in order tp examine it ; and Captain Cook remained on € lay in Rcfolution Bay^ in the Jfland of St Chriftina. — Departs from the Mar- quefas, — Thefe Jflands defcribed^ with an Account of the Inhabitants^ their Cufiems^ ^c, — The Refolution prepares to leave Otabeite, — Another naval Review. — A Defcrip- tion of the Ifland. — Her Arrival at the Ifland of Hicaheine, An Expedition into the fa me, — Various Incidents related.-^ The S hi i^ proceeds to Ulietca. — Her Reception there, — Inci- dents during her Stay. — Chara^er of Oedidee, — General Qbfervaiions on the Iflands^ ON Wcdnefday the i6th of March, we took our de- parture from EaJler Ille, an«1 fleered fortiic Mar- qi'.efas iflands, intending to make 'ome ftay there if no- thing material intervened. On the Orh of April, we dif- covered an ifland, when we were in latitude 9 d. 20 m. and longitude 1 38 d. 14 m. we were about nine leagues dlftance from it. We foon difcovered another, more extenfive tlian the former, and prefently afterwards a tVird and u fourth ; thefe were the Marquefasdifc^.ver- ciiin 1595 hy Mendana. After various unfuccef'^ful trials to come to an anchor, we came at laft bel^)re Mendaua's port, and anchored in thirty- four fath i water, at the entrance of the bay. Several canoes ap- peared, filled with natives, but it was with fome diffi- culty they were perfuaded tt) come alongfide ; they were at laft induced by fome fpike nails and a hatchet. From thefe people we got fome iifh and fruit. Great num- l^ers of them came alongfide next morning, and brought With ' -702 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. with them one pig. Tome bread-fruit and plantains, for which tliey received nails, Ike. We often detecled them in keeping our goods, and making no return ; which pradlice was not put a ftop to till Captain Cock fired a mufquet-hall over the head of one man, who had repeatedly letved us fo. We wanted to get farther into the hay, and accord- ingly fought after a convenient place to moor the fliip in. When Capt. Crok faw there were too many natives en board, he delired that they might be well looked after, or th^^ would certainly comniit many thefts. Before the Captain was well got into the boat, he was told that a canoe, with fome men in her, were making off with one of the iron llanchions from the oppofite j^angway. The Captain immediately ordered them to iire over the canoe, but not to kill any body. There wavS fuch a noife on board, that his orders were not dii- tindly heard, and the poor thief was killed at the third fhot. The reil that were in the canoe leaped overboard, but got in again jufl as Capt. Cook came up to them, and threw overboard the lianchion. One of the men fat laughing as he laved the blood and water out of the boat, but the other looked very ferious and dejedcd. We afterwards had reafon to tnink that the father of the latter had been (hot The natives retired with great precipitation at this unhappy accident ; but their fears were in f )me meai'ure allayed by the Captain's following them into the bay, and making them prefents. We found frefh water afhore, which we very much wanted. One would have imagined that the fatality attending one poor fellow's thieving, would have difcouraged them from making any more attempts of the like nature; but no fooner was our kedge anchor out, but two men came frcm tlie Ihore, wanting to take away the buoy, not knowing what was faftened to it. Left they (liould take away the buoy, a Ihot was fired, which fell fhort of them : of this they took n( ' the leaft notice ; but when another was fired, which went over their b'^'ds, they inftantly let go the buoy, and returned to the Ihore. CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. r93 iliore. This lafl fliot had a good efTedl ; for by this they fjw that they were not fate at any tliftaiicc, and they were ever afterwards much terrilied at the rip;ht of the mufqucr. However, they llill continued to pradife their art of thieviiig ; but it was judged ! setter to imt up with it, as we did not intend making a long flay ht'rc. A man who had the appearance of a ihief came oil to us witli a pig upon his fhouider ; he was pre- fented v/ith a hatehct in return, and afterwards great numbers of the natives came along-fide> and carried on Ibme traflic. Peace being now el\at)lilhed, another party of men were fent alhore. The natives received lu, civilly, and we got a fupply of water, as wdl as fome hogs and fruit. On the ()th, another party went alhore, and were met by a chief of fome confequeuce, attend- ed by fcveral of the nytives. Prelents were made to him ; but we could not prevail on him to return with us to dinner. In the afternoon another party was made to the fouthern cove, which came to the houfe th it be- longed to the man we had killed. His ion inherited his fuhftance, which confided of iive or fix pigs ; but he fled at our approach. We fliould have been glad to have'feen him, as we wanted to convince him that we bore the nation no ill-will, though wc killed his father, and to have made him ibme prefents by way of a fmail conipenfition. We collected a good many pigs and other refrediments this day, and returned on board in the evening. We alfo obtained feveral pigs irom the different canoes that came along-(ide of us on the loth inftant ; and by this time we had a i'ufficient number to afford the crews a frefli meal. A party was made on this day, which w^as fucceisful in the purchafe of fe- veral more pigs, and a large quantity of fruit. We had now a line profpe6t of getting a fupply of all manner of rcfrefhments ; but our exped:ations were frultrated, by Ibme of our crew having been on fhore, and ieliing them fuch articles as they had never before fcen, which made the natives defpife the hatchets and nails, which before they fo much prized. As this was the cafe, and Vol. I.^N<> 20. 5 H wc 794 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. We had much need of refrefhment, having been a long time at fea, it was detei mined to remove our qnarte-s, and make fail for Otaheite, hoping to fall in with ionie of thole iflands difcovered by the Dutch and other navi- gators, where our wants might be eltf apprehenfions of alarming and terrifying the nativest On Sunday the i ytb, at ten o'clock, A. M. having fteered W. by S. land was feen bearing W. f N* being a chain of low iflets, connedcd together by a reef tj" coral rocks. We ranged the N. W. coaft till we cam^ to a creek or inlet, and which feemed to have a commu- nication with a lake in the center of the ifland. Having a delire of furveyiiig thefe half drowned iflets, we hoift- €4 7<38 CAPTAIxV COOK'a SFXOND VOYAGE. ei\ r.nr a boat, and ftnt thf maQcr in to found. Whifel tFie Relolution ran aloiij* the coalt, the natives were fcm in diflcrcnt places aiincd with long I'pcars and cUihj, and a group of them were obierved on one fide ot the creek. Aa they fhewed fomefigns of a friendly dirpo.] fition, two boats were font a(hore well armed, under the command of Lieutenant Cooper, who was accompanied l>y Mr Forfter. We faw our people land without any cppofition from a few nativevS ftanding on the fhore; but perceiving, a little time after, forty or fifty, all arm- ed, coming down to join them, we flood clofer in fhorc, vr\{U the view of fupporting our peo[>le in cafe they jhould be attackeil ; but our boat returned without any thing of this kind having^ happened. By Mr Cooper we were informed, that many of the natives hovered about the fkirts of the wood with fpears in their hands; and that the prcfents he made to thofe on fhore were re- ceived with great coolnefs. When their reinforcement arrived, his party thought it moll prudent to embark, rfpecially as the Captain had ordered them to avoid, if poflible, an attack. When the crew, &c. were all in the boats, fome of the natives attempted to pufh them nZ others feemed difpofed to detain them ; at length they fiifFered our people to depart at their leifure. One cf them procured a dog for a fingle plantain, which led us to conjedure this was not a production of their ifland ; indeed, they faw no fruit but cocoa-nuts, of which they could get, by barter, otdy two dozen. When the mafter returned from founding the creek, he reported that- there was no paflTage from thence into the lake ; and that the creek, at its entrance, was fifty fathoms wide, and thirty deep ; farther up thirty wide, and twelve deep ; that the bottom was roeky, and the fides bounded by coral rocks. We were not inclined to run the fhip into fuch a place, and therefore, after hav- ing formed fome judgment of the natives, we prepared to proceed on new difcoveries. The natives call this ifland Tiookea, which was dif- covered and viftted by Commodore Byron. It is of an Qval CAPTAIN COOK»8 SF.COND VOYAGE. ri^ 3val form, about thirty miles in circnmfcronce, and lies in i/^d. 27 m. 30 \. S. latitude, and in I44c excellent harbours, were they not ihut up from the ae- * ccfs of fhipping, which, according to the report of the natives, is the cafe with moll of tliem. Of the great ninnher we ranged, not a paflagc was to be difcovered into one of them. We were told, tliat they abound with fifh, particularly turtle, on which the natives fub- lift, and Ibmetimes exchange with the inhabitants of the higher i Hands for cloth, &c. This illand, (by which, while in this part of the ocean, we would be underftood to mean, a number of llu'i ifles, or iflets, connedled to- gether into one by a reef of coral rocks) is about five leagues long, and three broad, and is in 15 d. 26 m. S. latitude, and in 146 d. 20 m. longitude. Near the fouth 5oo CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. fouth end wc difcoverecl from the mad head, diftant four It'jgiitrs, another of thcie low iflcs ; fooiiat'tora third, bearing S. W. hy 8. [t extends W. N. W. and E. S. E in which diretftion its length i^; twenty-cne miles, but ks bre.idth not more than lix. It appears, ia every rtfped, like the reft, only it has fewer iflcts, and lefs firm hmd on the reef which furrounds the lake. While ranging the nortli coaft, we law people, huts, canoes, and what appeared to be Wages for drying of fiih. The natives wltc armed withtlie fame weapons, and feemed to be the l.nne fort, as thofe in the ifland of Tiookea. Approacliin^ now tlie weft end we faw a fourth ifland, bciiring N. N. E. It lies fix leagues weft from the Hrlt. Tliei'e four clufters, we named Pall:u:r*s Ifles, in honour of Sir Hugh Pallifer. ' ^ On W idnefday the 20th, at day-break, hauling round the weft end of the third iliand, we found a great fwell rolling in from the S. by which wo knew that we were clear of thefe low iflands ; and being not within fight of land, we made the bcft of our way for Otaheitc, having a ftrong gale at caft, attended with (howers of rain, it is here neceflary to take notice, that this part ol f! c ocean, fiom the latitude 20 d. down to 12 d. and from the meridian of 1 38 d. to 150 d. W. is fo ftrewetl with low ifles, that a navigator cannot proceed with too much circumfpedion ; but whether thefe ifles be any of thofe difcovered, and laid down in the charts of the Dutch navigators, cannot be determined with any degree of certamty j efpecially when we confider, that their dif- coveries are not handed down to us with fuliicient ac- curacy. Thurfday the 21ft, we made the high land of Ota- heite ; by fun-fet were in with Point Venus, and the next morning, at eight o'clock, anchored in Matavai Bay, in feveii fathoms water. Our arrival was no iboner known to the natives, than they paid us a vifit, cxpreflTed the moft lively congratulations, and fupplied , tis with fifti and fruit iufficient for the whole crew. Our firft bufinefs was to €re<^ tents for the reception of fuch CAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGE. 801 Tiich of our people as were required on (horc. Sick we had none, for the refrefliments we got at the Marquefas, had been the means of removing every complaint of the fcorbtitic kind, and of preferving the whole crew in good heahh. We alio fent alhore Mr \Vale8*s iiiftruments ; our chief reafon for putting into this place being to afford him an opportunity to afcertain the error of the watch by the known longitude, and to determine pre- cifely its rate of going. On Sunday, the 24th, Otoo and other chiefs, with a train of attendants, brought us ten large hogs, befidea fruit, which made their vifit exceedingly agreeable. As the king's coming had been announced to us, and know- ing how much it was our intereft to keep this clnef our friend, Capr. Cook met him at the tents, and conducted the whole of his retinue, with himfelf, on board, where they (laid dinner, and appeared highly pleafed with their reception. Next day, notwithftanding we had much thunder, lightning; and rain, the king came again to fee us, and brought with him another prefent, con- fiding of a large quantity of refrefhmcnts. AVhen at Amfterdam, we had colle(!led, aniong other curipfities, fome red parrot feathers. Thefe preqious "yaiuables procured us hogs, fruit, and every other thing the ifland afforded. Our having them was a fortunate circum- ftance ; for our ftock in trade being greatly exhanftf d, without thife we ftionld have found it dimcult to have fupplied the ftiip wiih necefliiry refrefliments. When we put into this ifland, we intended to (lay no longer than Mr Wales had made the lecefFary oblervatioos tor the purpofes already mentiored ; and fuppofing we (h^uld meet with no better luccefs than we did the la(t time we Were; here. But the reception we had already met with, ^nd the few excu; fions we had made to the plains of Matavai andOparree,convinced us of our error; tor at ihefc two places we found built, and building, a large number of csfnoes and hiufes of every kind : peo- ple living in fpacious houfes, who had not a place to (heltcr themfelves in eight months before; alfo feycral hogs, in every houfe, with many other figns of a rifing Vol. I.~N°ai. « 5 1 ftate. lo2 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. ftate. On account of tlicfc favourable circumftanccj, we rcfolved to make a longer Hay at this ifi'nd, and to repair the fhip, which was row indifpenfably lijiceflary. Accordingly the empty cafks and fails were got afhore, the (liip was ordered to be caulked, and the rigging to be overhauled. On Tuefdav the 26th, Capt. Cook, accompanied by fortiie of the officers and gentlemen, went c^own to Opar- ree, to vifit Otoo by appointment. When arrived, wc faw a number of large canoes in motion, but were much furj^rized at perceiving more than three hundred ranged along the Ihore, all completely equipped and manned ; helldes a vaft number of armed men upon the fliore. We landed in the midft of them, and were received by a vail multitude, fome under arms, and fome not. The cry of the former was Tiyono Tcwba, and of the lat- ter was Tiyo no Otoo. Towha, we afterwards leaint Wa6 admiral, or commander of the fleet. Upon our landing we were met by a chief, named Tee, uncle to the king, of whom we enquired for Otoo. Soon after we were met by Towha, who received us in a friendly manner. He took Captain Cook by the one hand, and Tee by the Other, and dragged him, as it were, through the crowd that was divided into two panies, both of which proclaimed themfelves his friends, by crying out Tiyo no Tobtee. One part^^ wanted him to go to Otoo, and the other to remam with Towha. When icom^e to the ufual place of audience. Tee left us to go aiid brittj* thte king. Towha infifted on the Cantain's fading with him, but he would rot confent. When Tee returned j he took hold of his h)nd in order to con- •ou^ him to the king. Towha was unwilling he Ihould Tit down, and delired him to go with him ; but this chief being a ftranger, he refufed to comply. Tee was Very de/irous of conducing the Captain to the king; 'Towha oppofed, anil he was obliged to delire Tee to defiftj and to leave him to the admiral and his party, who conduced him down to the fleet. Hefe we found %wo hncs of armed men drawn up before the admiral's vclTel, in order to keep off the crowd that we might go oa CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 8q|g Oil board ; and when the Captain made an cxctife, a man fquatted down, and offered to carry him, but he would not go. At this time Towha, quitted us without our feeing which way he went, nor would any one in- form us. We were now joftled about in the crowd. We faw Tec, and enquiring of him for the king, he told us he was gone into the country of Mataou, and he ad- vifed us to repair to the boat, which we accordingly did, as foon as we could get colledled together. When in our boat we took our time to reconnoitre the grand fleet. We told an hundred and fixty large double ca- noes, equipped, manned, and armed ; but we believe they had not their full complement of rowers. The chiefs and all thofe on the fignting ftages, were habited in cloth, turbans, breaft plates, and helmets. Some o£ the latter femeed much to incumber the wearer. Be this as it may, the whole of their drefs added a gran- deur to the profpeft, and they were fo complaifant as tu fhew themielves to the beft advantage. Their veireb were full dreffed with flags, dreamers, &c. fo that the fleet made fuch a noble appearance, as we had never before feen in this fea, and what no one could have ex- peded. Their inllruments of war were clubs, lpears,and llones. The veffels were ranged clofe alonglide oi'each other, having their heads to the (hore, and their fterns to the fea. The admiral's veflel was nearly in the cen- tre. We counted, exclufive of the veflels of war, an hundred and feventy iail of fmaller double canoes, all rigged with maft and iail, whicli the war canoes had not. Thefe, we judged, were deligned for tranfports, viduallers, &c. for in t\\e war canoes were no forts of proviiions whatever. We conjedlured that in thelb three hundred and thirty veifels there were no lefs than feven thoufand feven hundred and fixty men, a num- ber incredible, efpecially as we were told they all be- longed to the diilrit^s of Attahourou and Ahopalea. Moft of the gentlemen, by their calculations, thought the number of men belonging to the war canoes ex- ceeded this, allowing to each canoR forty men, and to oach of UiC fmall canoes eight. Huving viewed this ^^ I 2 fleet, •o4 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. fleet, it was our intention to have gone on board, could we have fcen the admiral. We enquired for him but to no purpofe. At laft Tee came, by whom we were in- formed, that Otoo was gone to Matavai. This intelli- gence gave rife to new conje£tures. When we got to Matavai, our friends told us, that this fleet was part of the armament intended to go again ft Einieo, whofc chief had thrown off the yoke of Ocaheite. We ^yere ftill at a lofs to account for the flight of Otoo from Oparree, for we were informed he neither was nor had been at Matavai. We therefore went thither again in the afternoon, where we found him, and learnt, that the reafon of his abfconding in the morning was, becaufe fome of his people had ftolc fome of the Captain's clothes which were waihing at the tents, and he feared reftitu- "lion would be demanded. He repeatedly aflied Capt. Cook if he was not angry, nor coulJ lie he esfy till af- fured, that the pilferers might keep the flolen things. Towha alfo was alarmed, thinking that Capt. Cook was difpleafed, and jealous of feeing iuch a force fo near us, without knovfing its deftination. It happened unluckily that Oedidee was not with us in the morning ; tor Tee, who was the only i^sm we could depend <^n, ferved ra- ther to increafe our perplexity. Tlius by mutual mif- underftanding,#we lofl: a favourable opportunity of fcrutinizing the naval force of this ille, and making out," fclves better atquainted with its manccuvres, it was commanded by an intelligent and brave chie^, a ho was difpofed to have fatistied us in all queftiou^ we had thought proper to aflv ; and from the nature of the db- jedts, which were before us, we could not. well have mifunderflood each ether. All miftakes being now reftified, and prefents having pafled between Otoo and Capt. Cook, we took leave and returned on board. On Wednefday, the 27th, in the morning, Towha fent us by two of his fervants, two large hogs, and fome fruit. The bearers of this prefent had orders not to receive any thing in return, nor would they when offer- ed them* Some of our gemiemea went wi^H the Cap- tain CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 805 tain in his boat down toOparree,where we found Tow ha, and the king ; after a (hort viiit, he brought them both en hoard, together with Tarevatoo, the king's younger brother. When v;e drew near the fliip, the admiral, who had never feen one before, exprefled llrong figns of furprize, and when on board, he was (hewed, and be- held every part of it with great attention. When Towha retired after dinner, he prt a hog on board without our knowledge, or waiting for a return ; and foon after Otoo and his attendants departed alfo. There was a jealoufy between thefetwo cldefs, on what account we could not learn ; neverthelefs Otoo paid Towha much refped:, and was defirous we fhould do the fame. Otoo had the day before frankly declared, that the admiral was not his friend. When on board, both thefe chiefs requefted our affiftance againft Tiarabou, notwitbftanding there was no rupture at this time between the two dates, and they had informed us, that their joint forces were in- tended againft Eimeo. The reafon of this duplicity we could not find out : perhaps they were defirous of an- nexing that kingdom, by our alliance, to their own, as it was fornjerly; be that as it may, as Capt. Cook gave them no encouragement, we heard no more on this fubjed. Our endeavours to maintain a neutrality, we believe, were well received by both parties ; for next day, bein^ Thurfday, the 28th, Wahea-tou, king of Tiarabou lent us a prefent of a hog, for which he re- quefted a few red feathers, which were accordingly fent him. On the 29th, early in the morningj Otoo, Towha, and feveral chiefs, again paid us a vifit, and brought with them not only provilions, but fome of the moll choice curiofities of the ifland, and among other returns, with which they feemed well pleafed, the Captain did not forget to repay the civilities we had received from the admiral, Towha. We muft not omit taking notice, that the preceding evening, one of the natives was dete£led in an attempt to fteal a cafk from the watering place, and being oaught in the a£t:, he was fent on board, and we put him in irons. Otoo and the other chiefs faw the cul- prit ie<$ CAPTAIN COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. E rit in this fituation, and Otoo earneftly interceded in is behalf, requefting with many intreaties, that he might be fet at liberty ; but he was told by Capt. Cook, that as our people \^re punifhed for the leaft offence committed agamft the natives of Otaheite, it was but jitftice to punifli this man alfo, which he was determine cd to fee done in an eriemplary manner, cipecially as it was well known, he, Otoo, would not do it himfelf. The man in confi^quence of the Captain's refoluticnj was conduced aihore to the tents, where a guard was ordered out under arms, and ihe offender tied up to a poft, Otoo, his lifter, and many of the natives being ipe^ators. Otoo and his fifter begged hard for the man; with whom the Captain expoftulated, telling Otoo, how unjuft it was in his people to Ileal from us who were their friends, and who never took any thing from them without giving certain articles, which be enumerated, in exchange. The Captain laboured alio to convince Otoo, that the punifliment he was about to infli€t on this man might prove the means of faving tbe lives of others of his mbjeeop!e; and having reprimanded them for theit present condutSl, he exhorted them to adopt and pur- lue a different one for the future. His adion was re- markably graceful, and the prpfound attention of his audience, proved him to be a mafterly fpcakcr. Otoo fiid not one word. When Towha had conciuded his harangue, the ma- rines were ordered to go through their exercife. They fired in vollies with ball, and being very quick in charg- ing, and in their manoeuvres, it is fcarcely poffible to defcribe th VOYAGE. Sfj ifcompanied him to his proper refiflence af Oparrcr, [where he obliged us with a view of fomc rS his dock- yards, (for (o they may well be called) wliere we favv feveral large canoes, lome bnildinq, and others lardy built, two of which were tlie larpjeft we had any where lien. I laving hilly gratified our cuno{i«:y, we repaired onboard with Tee iii our company, wbo, I'.fter he had 'dined with us, went to acquaint Huppi, the king's fa- thrr, that all difl'erences were brought to a lvq>py con-f dufion. But we had realbn to think this old chief was not latistied with the terms of ttie accommoilation ; for all tlie women, and theie not a few, were ^tnt for out of tlie (hip, and the next morning, no fnpplies whatever were brought, and we were obliged for the prefent, to he contented with fome fruit lent us by our friends from Oparrce. But in tlie afternoon, Otoo himfclf came to the tents with a large fupply ; and prelenJ -y after more fruit was brought us than we knew wn?.t to do with : for the natives, we believe, thought tiiemfelvcs injured equally with ourfclves; and we knew they had every thing ready for our market, when they ^vere permitted to bring them. Otoo defirinj; to i"c^ fome of the great guns lired, his wifli wa« complied with, but the irght^ which was entirely new, gave him as much pain as pleafure ; but in the evening, when we entertained him with a (hew of fire-wcrks, he expreffed mucli greater fatisfadtion. We have before had occaiion to oblbrve, that thefe people were continually watching opportu- nities to rob us ; and feeing the offenders were con-*. tinually fcreened, we cannot but think, that the-chiefi cither encouraged, or had not power to prevent thievifU pradices. We thought it more extraordinary that they Ihould fo often attempt what they knew might coft them their lives ; and they well knew alfo they Ihould be obliged to make reftitution, if the article ftolen was of any great value. They were fully fenfible of thefe confequences, and therefore, the moment a theft was committed, every one took the alarm, and weat oil with his nioveables 43 fait as poinble 5 but if the article t»4 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE- was a trlfie, or fuch as we ufually gave them, no con motion happened, becaufe, in general, little or no notio was taken of it. Whether we obliged them to maliil rcilitntion or not, the chief frequently fecretcd hhnfelfJ and lie muft l)e reconciled before the people were perl mitteil to bring in any refrelhmcnts : and we are ^:\ fiiaded it was by his orders the fupplies were detaine from U8. Thefe they imagined we could not do wit! cut, not coniidering, that their war canoes, dwel!in}»ji and even fruit, were entirely in our power, Theifl propenfity to thieving mud be almoft irrefiftible, otherJ wife our uniform condudl towards them would havcl had its due weight : for, except detaining their canoesi for a time, we never touched the fmalleft article of theirl property. When two extremes were under our co^l fideration, we always chofe the mod equitable and mild;! and frequently fettled difputes, or effeded a reconcilia- tion, by trifling prefents, notwithftanding we were the party aggrieved. A prefent to a chief always fucceedcd to our wifh, and put things on a better footing than they had been before. In all our difierences they were the ' fir ft aggreflbrs ; and our people very feldom Infringed the rules prefcribed by our Commander. Had th« Captain purfued lefs eligible methods, he might have been a lofer in the end ; for had he deftroyed any of | the natives, or part of their property, all he could expeft would have been the empty honour "of obliging them to make the firft advances towards an accommodation. Nor IB it certain this would have been the event. They were made our faft friends by three motives ; their own benevolent difpofition, mild treatment from us, and the dread of our nre-arms. Had we not continually had recourfe to the fecond, the firft would have been of little ufe to us ; atid a too frequent application of fire-armi might have excited revenge, perhaps taught them in a littk time, that they were not fuch terrible things as they jiad conceived them at tirft to be. They knew their ^^i>^th ia the fup^eriority of tbdu: Bumbers, and who can CAPTAIN CGOK»s SECOND VOTAdE. Sr^ jn fay what an enrnged multitude might do, by un- [auntcdly clofing with even an European Riicniy. On Wednelclay, the i ith, a large funply of fruit came market, and among the reft a prcient from TowIia, [he admiral ; for which the Captam made a fnit.iblc re- [urn. At this time all the necclTIiry repairs of the inip -ing nearly finilhcd, it was refolvcd to leave Otahcifr [aaiewdays; to this end every thin^ was ordered oft rom the fliorc that the natives mif^ht ice we v»'cre about 10 leave them. On the 1 2th, Ober(!a, whom we had not feen fmce 1769, paid us a vifit, biinpng with her hr)rrt> )nd fruit. Otoo alfo came foon after her, with a num- ber of attendants, and a large quantity of proviijv.-.s. Capt. Cook was very [generous in his returns of preients, mu in the evening^ entertained them with fire-works, khinking it might be the laft time we might fee tb.cfc riendly people who had fo liberally relieved our wanrs* On Friday, the 1 3th, we were not ready to fail, but the ?ind was favourable, and the weather fair. Oedidec »*asnot yet returned from Attahourou, and various re- sorts were circulated concerning him. tSome faid he Svas atMatavai ; others, that he intended not to return ; pd there were thofe who afhrmed he was at O^arree. IWith a view of difcovering the truth, a party of us re- Ipaired to Onarrcc, where wc found him. Tcwha wafi lalfohere, who,'notwithftanding he was afflicfled with a Ifwelling in his feet and legs, which had taken away the lufe of them, had neverthelefs refolved to fee the C'aptairt Ibefore he failed, and had advanced with this intent thus [far on his journey. The day being far fpent, we wen; lobliged to ihorten our ftay, and after having feen Otoo, we returned on board whh Oedidee. This youth, we found, was defirous of remaining at Otaheitc ; the cap- tain therefore told him he was at liberty to remain here. Of to Quit us at Ulietea, or to go with us to England. That if the latter Was his choice, he muft look upon him as his father, as it was very probable he would never re- turn to his own country. This youth threw his arms ji^ut hi$ aeck, wept muah, and faid, many of his frienda per- $i6 CAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAG5. pei-riiaded him to remain at Otiilicite. Oedidee was we beloved in the fnip ; on wliich account every one wa psrfuading him to go with us. But Captain Cool| thought it an adl: of the higlitft injuRice to take a peilJ from thefe ifics, wlitn there was not the lead prolptq of hiy rcturnintr, under any promil'e which was not in his pov;er to perform. Indeed, at this time, it was quiia iinnecell'ary, ieclng many young men offered voluntaii] ly to go with us, nay, even to remain and die in Pre] tanee, as they call our country. Several of our gentle men v/ould have taken fome as fervants, hut Captaia Cook prudently rejected every felicitation of this kloii knowing, they would be of little ufe to us in the couri'J of the voyage ; befides what had Hill greater '.veight witlij the Captain, was, that he thought himfelf bound to k they were afterwards properly taken care of. On Satuaday, the 14th, early in the morning, OediJeel came on board and Mr Forller prevailed upon him tol go with us to Ulietea. Towha, Pontatou, Oamo, HappiJ Oberea, and many more of our friends paid us a vilitJ The wife of Towha was with him, and this chief wasi hoifted in, and placed on a chair, on the quarter deck. Among other prel'ents, we gnve the admiral an Englifli pendant, which, af:er he had been inftrudled in the ule ufit, pleafcd him more than all the reft. Soon after thefe friends had left us, we faw a immber of war canoeil coming round the point of Oparree, tQ^hich place the Captain, accompanied by fome of '&^ officers and gentlemen, haftened down, in order td| have a nearer | view of the fleet. We arrived therd before all M canoes were landed, and had an opportunity of ob- ferving in what manner they approached the Ihore. No fooncr had they got before the place where theyl intended to land, than they formed themfclves into! divilions, confiding of three or more canoes laflied fquare and along-lide of each other; after which each divilion paddled in for the Ihore, one after another, in fo judicious a manner, that they formed, and clofctla line along the ihore to an inch. The rowers were en- ccuragca CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. iCiy courage(' by their warriors, and direfteJ by a man who lloptl yvith a wand In his hand at the head ot the middle- mo^vefl'cl. By words and adions he direrted the rowers when all llioukl paddle, and when cither the one fide or the other Ihould ceafe, &c. (or the ftcerinp^ pad- dles were not liiiEcient to diret:l tliern. They obl^rved all thefe motions with hich quickneis, and anfwered lb cxadly, as plainly ihew^ed them to be expert in their biifineir.. Mr Hodges made a drawin.;;* ol ihem, as they lay ranged along the Ihore, after which wc locjk a nearer view, by going aboard Teveral ot thcni. This fleet, which coniiited of forty fail, belonged to the litde dilhitSt of Tettaha, ind v/crc come to Op.irree, to be reviewed before the king, as the lornier iieet had been, the manner of whofe equipment we have already delcribed, and as that of this fleet was cx Captain had juft refufed Mr Forfter the liberty of taking a boy with him, for realbns already mentioned. But if curiofity excitv;d a defire in the youth of Otaheite to go with us, the treatment we had met with at this place had induced one of our gunner's mates to remain at it. To this end he had formed a plan, which he knew was not to be eJcecuted with fuccefs while we lay in the bay j and no fooner ivere we out, the fails fet, and the boats out, than he took the opportunity, being a good Iwim- mer, to flip overboard. He was diicovered before he had got clear of the fliip, and a boat being hoifted out, prefently returned with the runaway. About midway between us and the (hore, a canoe was obferved coming after us, intended without doubt to take him up ; for when the people in her faw our boat, they flood ofl' at a greater diftance. This we found was a preconcerted plan between the man and fome of the natives, with which Otoo was acquainted, and had en- couraged. The gunner's mate was an Irifh-man by birth, and we had picked him up at Batavia, in our firit voyage. He had neither friends, nor connexions, to confine him to any particular part of the world, where then could he be fo happy as at one of thefe ifles ? Here he might enjoy in eafe and plenty, not only the neceffa- ries, but the luxuries of life, which leads us, becaufe we leave this celebrated ifland of Otaheite, to give fome ac* count of its prefent flate, efpecially as it differs much from what it was even eight months ago ; and in order to give the reader a more dif^ant idea of its fituation, general figure, extent, and the charader of its inhabi- tants, we muft beg of him to indulge us with the liberty of a recapitulation of feveral things, which have already appeared in detached parts of this work ; that fo the whole may be brought into one view, and its diftind heads ranged in their proper order. We have already mentioned the improvements we ^ound in the plains of Oparree and Matavai, T he fame was obferved in every other part that came unde '>«jr obfervation. It feemed to us almofl incredible, that fo ^ L a _ raany 82* CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. many large canoes and honfes could be built in fo fliort a fpace as cijgbt months : but the iron tools which they had got from the Englifh, and other nations, who have lately louched at the ifland, no doubt, had accelerated the work, and of hands they cannot be in want. The great increafe in the number of their hogs no lefs ex- cited our admiration ; though, probably, they were noi; fo fcarcc when we were here before, as we then ima- f^ined ; as, not chufmg to part with any, they might have conveyed them out of fight. The lituation of this iflc is perhaps the befl: in the world, being expofed to none of thofe viciffirudcs of heat and cold, which are obibrved to have fo feiiiibic an effed: on the health and fpirits of thole who live in remoter regions. Its exad: pofition is from latitude 17 d. 28 m. to that of lyd. 53 m. S. and from longi- tmle 149 d. 10 m. to 14.9 d. 40 m. W. It lies nearly N. \V, ar.d S. E. and is divided into tvv'o diuin^l princi- palities by an ilihmus, or neck of land, and three niilcs over. The north-wriierly diviiion is, however, much larger, and more fertile, but by no means fo well ciihi- vated us the fouth-eafterly diviiion ; which fliews, that even the defeds of nature, if we m.ay be allowed to call them fo, have their ufe, in prompting men to indullry and art, to lupply their wants. The figure of the largeft peninfula, is neaily rircniar, being from N. to S. about twenty miles, and fiom E. to VV. about the fame. The whole is furroimded with a reef of rocks. The leflei* peninfula is rather of an oval, form, and from the neck of land on the N.W. fide, to the little ifle of Otocarcit- te on the S. E. is about twelve miles ; but from the mouth of the river Omatea on the fouth, to that of Owahe on the north, not -more than eight. The cir- cumference of the largelt peninfula is about fixty ini'e?, of the fmallefl: about twenty-four ; but in failing i^uiA both, the line will be extended to ninety ncariy. For a particular account of the produce of the ifiand, we are indebted to the indefatigable induflry of Mr CAPTAIN COCK'S SECOND VOYAGE. Sif Banks and Dr Solander ; in whofe catalogue are the following particulars, namely, bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas or thirteen forts ; plantains, a fruk not unlike an apple, which when, ripe is very pleafant ; fweet po- tatoes, yams, cocoan, a kind of arum ; a fruit called b the natives jambu, very delicious; fugar-cane; a root ♦if the {aloop kind, called pea ; a plant called ethee ; a fruit named ahee, not unlike a kidney bean, and wjiich, when roaued, tades like chefnuts; a tree called wharra, producing a fruit not unlike a pine-apple ; a fhrul call- ed nono ; the morinda, which alfo produces fmlt ; a fpecies of fern ; and a plant called ava, of wh'.h the roots only are chewed : all thefe, which ferr^ ; ■: na- tives for food, the earth produces fpontaneoufly ; bo fides which there are a great variety, of fliruhs and lants, which fervc for various purpofes of building loul'es, veffels, tools of different kinds, manufadures. I dyes, &c, to enumerate which would be tedious. Or four-footed animals the ifland produces but few, none having been ken by the Europeans on their firfl: land- ing, but hogs, dogs, and rats, of which laft the inha!)!- tants are very fond. Their wild fowl are ducks only, and the birds that haunt the wood, except fmall birds, are chiefly pigeons, and paroquets ; but with lifh the coaft abounds, of which the varieties are numberlefs. Poultry is not in plenty, nor is it fo well flavoured a* v;hat we have in Europe. Here it may be proper to obferve, that the .two goats, which Captain Inirneaux gave to Otoo, when we were lad here, feemed to pro- mife fair for anfwering the end for which they were put on ihore. The ewe foon after had two female kids, which were at this time ready to propagate their fpecies ; and the old ewe was again with kid. The natives feemed to be very fond of them, and they to like their fituation ; for they were in exceeding good condition. We may therefore reafonably hope from this circum- ftance, that, in a few years, they may be fpread over all the ifles in this ocean, T^e fheep which we left, died %2% CAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGE. in a Q\on time after : but we nnderftood one was yet * alive. We alfo furnifhed them with a ftock of cars, not lefs than twenty, befides what we left at Ulietea and liiiaheine. The natives^ particularly the chiefs, are in fize, rather above the largeft Europeans. Their food, which is of the fimpleft kind, is not fuch as to promote gluttony, nor their drink, which i's chiefly water, calculated to provoke intemperance. Their daily intercourfe with ihe ocean accuftoms them from their youth to exercife; and the huilners of fifliing, which in northern countriea h the rnort laborious of all .enij^loyments, is by them l>ra6li fed as their amufement. They who have repre- lented them as indolent,, becaufe nature fupplies liberal- • ly all their wants, have miftaken their character. Evea their chiefs are artifts, and their houfes, public edifices, canoes, and manufadtures, their utenlils, inftruments of war, working tools, their boats, and filliing tackle, are jtll proofs inconteftible of their induftry. Employments «Df this kind tend to baniih floth ; and no perfon was ever known to languiQi with an incurable difeafe among them, tliougli it does not appear, that the medical art kas yet made any confiderable progrefs. Much haa been faid, and in general with ftri£t truth, of the grace" fulnefs of their perfons ; yet if we were to judge of the whole by Autorou, and Omia, who were brought to England, they might be thought to have little claim to that perfe<^ion ; yet their chiefs have undoubtedly a comparative dignity ; but that comparifon is to be con- fined at home between prince and peafanr, and not ex- tended to European countries, where grace and digni- ty are leading characters. Their women differ from each other in perfonal charms as in all other countries ; but in llature, thofe of fuperior rank take efpecial care tf) preferve the family diltindion. It is not uncommon for ladies of the firft rank to iingle out a handlbme well-proportioned youth, to prevent degeneracy, whea the fta,ture of the family is in danger of being reduced ; but, they are otherwU'e fcrupulous ia nothing fo much as a^ m inftai>c| lower where and ye| gree, b| the lini ther. educati^ guide : ion, am but thisl and art! Otaheiti but are ai'e com veral ii is no mi bountift in order ted, and tween tlJ The ver who in j dard as t toocd, V be fomei tion, an to endu acute, the bloc would tl with a 1 be foun( Their wear it 1 but the fuffer n( llcate in CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. J*| a<5 In mixing with the canaille, and there are fcarccly aa inftance of their cohabiting inciifcriminately with the lower clafs of people. There is, perhaps, no iiatioa where the pride of anceftry is carried to a grearcr height, and yet th^y have no means of recording their pedi- gree, but by oral tradition, nor any rule for continuing the line, but what nature has imprefl'ed upon the mo- ther. Having no fchools, nothing is to be acquired by education, example is their principal infuuclor and guide : the pattern fet by the father is followed by the Ion, and what the mother does, that the daughter learns; but this is not to be underwood to perpetuate hufbandr/ and aits, as in China, in particular families : for in Otaheite hulhandry and arts are not impofed as tall^s, but are rather amufements to nafs away time. None ai'e compelled to work, yet all are employed ; their fc- veral iiations chance leems to have allotted ; and here is no murmuring againft Providence fov not being more bountiful. One precaution obferved among the great in order to give vigour to their chiefs muft not be omit- ted, and that is, they never fuffer an intercourfe bo- tween the fexes till both parties arrive at full marurity* The very reverfe of this is pradifed by the multitude^ who in general are as much below the common iian- dardas their chiefs exceed it. They are almoii al! tat- tooed, women as well as men. In this there leems to be fomething myftical ; the prieft performs the opera- tion, and the very children are encouraged by example to endure the pain, than which nothing can be more acute. To have a thoufand pun<3;ures all at once, wirfi the blood ftartijig at every pundlure, is rn(^re, one would think, than a child could bear, yet they fufler it with a fortitude of which in European inftance cannot be found. Their hair is ahnoft univerfally black. The men wear it long, waving in ringlets down their flioulders ; but the women cut It Ihort round their ears : both fexed fuffer none to grow under their arms ; and ar€ very de- licate in keeping every part about them fwect and clean. I'o t24 CAI»TAIM COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE* To tliis end they freq'.jcinly bathe, ieklom fuHcrlngj day to pjiiii without tjoinc^ into the water mere than once, indeed they arjoint their heads with an oil ex- prell'td lioin tlie eocoa-nut, which fomctimes proves rancid, and emits a (iidipjieeahle linell ; otherwile i:i tacir pcrfons they are without a tainr. Mr Banks faiil, *' that if our luilors quarrelled with tliele people, they would not a^ree with anp;els," whieh fuilieiently dejiotw the goodnels of their dirpolition. We have meniion- cd tint Waheatoua is related to Otoo. Tlie (ame may he faid of tiic chiefs of Einieo, Tapamannoo, Hnaheine, Illietea, Otaha, liolabola, for thefe are all related to tlie royal family of Otaheitc. It is a maxim with the Karec?, and others of fuperior rank, !\^ we have jufl ol^lcrved, never to intermarry with the Toutous, or others of in- ferior rank ; and probably this cuftom might give rile to the efiablin^ment of the elafs called Kareeoies : it ii; certain thefe focieties prevent greatly tlie inereale of the fuperior elalFes of people, of which they are coinpofed, and do not interfere with the lower or Toutous ; lor we never heard of one of thefe being an Earreoy ; nor that a Toutou could rife in life above the rank in which ho was placed by his birth. The euftoms of thefe people obferved in their eating, as our readers mud have perceived from what has al- ready l/een faid on this i'ubjedl, are very fmgular, and they feera to entertain fome fuperftitious notions, not cafily difcoverablc by ftrangers. The women are not permitted to eat with the men ; not, as it fliould ieem, to mark their inferiority, but in conformity to a cuiiom which habit has eilabliHied into a law ; nor is it ufnal for any of them to eat in company, except upon qertaia days of feftivity, when great numbers or them aflemble together. A meflcngc r from one of our Englifh Cap- tains found Gberea, the then fuppofed queen of the illand, entertaining a company, which he fuppofed could not be lefs than a thoufand. The meflcs were ail brought to her by the fervants, who had prepared them; the meat being put into the flielis of CQcoa-nuts, and the ihell* CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 825 rtiells into wooden trays ; and flic diftrlhutcd them with licr own hands to the gucfts, who were fcatcd in rows. This done fhe fat down herfcif upon a feat fomcwhat elevated above the nil, and two women placing tliem- fclves, one on each fide, fed her Hke a ehild. Whea (he faw the mclFenger, Ihe ordered a mcfs for him. They have two ways of dreffinR their animal fond, namely, broiling and baking. The firH: is performecl over hot ftones, without any other conrrivanec than that of placing the meat upon the clean (h)nes, and when (lone enough on one fide, they turn it, and broil llie other. Their manner of baking is very fmgularancl curious. They firft dig a hole in the ground, in depth and dimenlions proportioned to the thing they have to drefs ; they then place a layer of wood at bottom, and over that a layer of (lones, and fo alternately a layer of wood and a layer of ftones, till the hole is I'ull : the iirc is then kindled, and the ftones made hot ; this done they take out the fire, and placing the ftones that are Icafl: heated one befide the other at the bottom of the hole, they cover them with frefti leaves ; and on thefe they put the meat intended to be baked ; then after layinpj anodier layer of green leaves, they (ill up the hole with the remaining hot ftones, and clofe the hole with the mould that was iirft dug out of the pit. In this fituationi the meat is fuffcred to remain for three or four hours ; and when taken out is then fo favoury, as not to be ex- ceeded by the beft European cookery. Almoft all the flefh and fifti eaten by the chiefs in the illand is drefted in one or the other 01 the above two ways ; the latter is moft in ufe among the gentry ; and the former among the commonalty, who fometimes indeed eat ther fifh without drefling. Tables they have none*, and thofe of the higheft quality dine on the ground under the ftiadc of a fpreading tree ; frefh green leaves ierve them for a cloth, and a bafket which is fet down by them holds their provifions ; thefe, and two cocoa-nuts, one filled with lalt-water, the other with frefti, complete the whole preparation for a meal. When this is done, they wafti their hands and mouth?, and then, if ncthing calls them Vol. I.~N" ai. 5M abroad, «2<> CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGfi. abrorid, they ufually lay thcmfelves down to fleep. It was lo'.ig bttbrc any ci tliem could be perfuaded to eat with luropeans, and the certainly, like the Jews, have lome fupcrlHtioiis ccremonits to be ohferved in the pre- paration of the food they cat^ which, if omitted, renders it unclean, or they would not have continued fcrupulous fo long. Even tlie food of their women is differently prepared from that of the men ; and if touched by un- nallowed hands, is accounted unfit for ufe. Some of the gentlemen, wlien invited to their houfes, eat out of the fame baiket, and drank out of the fame cup with their hofts ; but it was obferved, that the elderly women were always offended with this liberty ; and if they happened to touch the victuals of any of the ancient matrons, or even the bafket that held it, they never fail- ed to exprefs their diflike, and to throw it away ; nor could the women of fi^Chion ever be perfuaded to eat with the gentlemen, when dining in company:. but what feems moft (Irange, and hardly to be accounted for, they would go, five or fix in company, into the fervants apartments, and eat heartily of whatever they could find J nor did they feem in the le^^: difconcerted, if they were difcovered ; yet it was not eafy to perfuade any of them when alone, in private with a gentleman, to eat with him, nor would they ever do it but under the mofl folemn promifes of fecrecy. Their amufements are various, fuch as mufic, dancing, wreilling, (hooting with the bow, darting their lances, fwimming, rowing, and flmj^ing of ftones. Their mulic it muft be confeffed is very imperfedt, confining only of a flute and drum, yet with thefe, companies go about the country, and frequent their fenivals,being in equal el- timation with them as morrice dancers were formerly with us, and the diverfion they make is not unfimilar. In fhooting the long bovv, or in throwing the lance, they by no means excel ; neither are they very dex- terous at wreftling ; but at throwing ftpnes, and fwim- ming, they are perhaps equal to any people upon earth. Among other diverlions, they have their heivas, nearly cor- nor f ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k // .^/ ^ Jl^ /. & -^ 1.0 ■i^lM |2.5 |50 ■^" ■■■ "" Ki 12.2 ^ m 1.1 f "^ 1^ IL25 i 1.4 JA 1.6 Phot^iaphic .Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145S0 (716) 872-4503 <*' r a louitli part ot the fleet. That oriiaiabou is not included in this aeenunt ; and many other dillritils nu^ht be aim- ing whieh wo kne'V nothing of; yet we think tlic whole illuul oi Otaheile tliil woi arm on this oecaliou, lor we liuv not any j)ieparations makinii; at Oparrie. Wo believe that the ehicf, or chiefs, of each diihid, fujx rintendcd the C(]uippi!i', of the fKet bclon^iuj; to that didriifl ; after whicli they mull pais in review be- fore the king, who by tlfis means kncnvs the Hate of the "U'holc intentled to go on ferviee. The number of war c.'n>)es belonging to Artahourou and Ahopata is an hun- dte<^ and fixty ; toTettaha Ibrty ; to Nhtavai ten ; now if we fuppol'c every dillriC^l in the illand, of whieh tliero are fony-three, to raile and ccpiip the fame nunil)er of war canoes as 'I ettaha, according to this eilimai;-, the whole illand can raife and equip one ihouland Itveii }umdred and twenty war canoes, anil lixty-ciglit thou- land able men, allowing forty to each canoe ; and leeiiig thefe cani\ot amount to above one third part of tlie nutnber of both lexcR,children included, the whole illaiul cannot contain lef'^ than two hundred and four thou- fand inhabitants. This at lirll light exceeded our belief; but when, upon a review of this ealcukiiion, we eoiiii- der the vail 1 warms of natives which appeared wherever we went» we Avere convinced our eltimate was not much, if at all too j^reat. There cannot, in oiu' opinion, be a ftronger proot of the richnefs and fertility of Ota- hcite (not forty leagues, or 1 20 miles, in circuit) than that of its lupporting inch a number of warriors and war- like inhabitants, all artifls, anil poirelFed of a fleet, both their glory and defence. Such is the prefent Hate of the arts in this celebrated ifland, which, had l\ipia liv- ed to have come to England, and to have returned again to his own country, would, no doubt, have received Itill more rapid improvements j for be was a man oi real geniuSj CAPTAIN COOK'S r.ECOND VOYAOF. 83^ ppmiis»n nriclloftlu! hr(l ordfr, and an cvrcllcnt artilh I His hoy I'aycU) was the darliiipj of the I'.iitkavnur'fi civvv, bcini; ot a milil and d(jciK' dirpolilion, ready to (io anv kind oiliec lor the nuMiicll in the fliin ; never ri)iuplainifij:!:J>iit always plealfd. Tljcy both died nnich liiau'Uled at Hatavia, the oeealion ol wliicli has been re- lati'il in its proper plae'.\ 'I'hc maniit'adures ol Otalicito arc of various kinds; that of eloth is in the hij^hell cUiination among them. The material of which one fort is madi* is neither Ipun, nor woven in a loom, bnt in every refpedl is prep:i!cd alter the lirll Tnnple manner of making j)a|>er before mills were ai)plied to faeiliiate the labour. '1 he bark is liril ilrippe«{ iVoiu the tree and laid in the water, as wc iln lla>Mto foak : it is t!;' n divcticd of the rind by fir.i- j)ing, till only the libres of the inhde remain. When properly eleanfed, it is placed npon leaves, one layer by ihc iide of another, till U is of fu(li'.:ient breadth ; ami u\ the lame maimer it is extended to what lenpvli the ma- nufadurer ehufcs, or the u;ronnd will admit; and to llrcngthcn it and increal'e its breadth, one layer is laid pver another till it is of the fubdancc ie(juircd. '!'hi» done, it is left to drain, arid when jnfl dry enough to be railed from the groimd, it is placed upon a kiml of itage, made of fmooth boards, and beat with a fquare beater about a loot long, and two or three inches broad. On each of the four lidesof this beater parallel lines are cut lengthwiic : thefc lines differ in iinencl's, in a pro- portion from fmall twine to a filken thread. They iirll pegin with the eoarfell lidc of the beater, and fmilh with the lineiK liy the continual application of this beater, ill which two people are continually employed, who Ibmd oppoiite to each other, on each Iide of the ftage, and regulate their Ilrokes like fmiths on an anvil, the cloth, if cloth it may be called, in its rough ftate thins apace, and as it thins, it of courfe inereaies in breadth. When it has undergone this procefs, it is then fprcad out to whiten, which when fiifficiently done, it is de- livered to the ladies, whofe province is to look it care.^ fully ^ CAPTAIN COOiC. SECONO VOTAG. fully over an^f f ^'^lacE. novvcil upon ir. r,, o' , '? '^?<'«^. anf tlie family of Opoureonu ; at prefeiit the two are nearly re- lated, and we believe the ibrmer is, in fojne meafure, dependent on the latter. Otoo is liiled Earee de hie of the whole illand ; and 'we were told, that Wahea- toua, the king of Tiarabou, mufl: uncover before him, iathe fame manner as the lowell order of his fubjedls do. This homage is not only paid to Otoo, but to Tarei^atou, his brother, and his fecond lifter, to the one as heir, and to the other as heir apparent. We have foaiccimes feen theEowas and Whannos covered before the t4o CAPTAIN C00K*8 SECOND VOYAGE. the king, but whether by courtefy or by virtue of their' office, we could not learn. T'hefe men, who are the principal perlbns about the king, and form his court, are generally, if not alv/ays his relations. Tee, fo often mentioned in this narrative, was one of them. The Kovvas, who hold the lirft rank, attend in turns, a cer- tain number each day, ib that they may be called lords in waiting. We feldorn found Tee abfcnt, and his at- tendance was neceflary, as being bell able to negociate matters between Captain Cook and the chiefs ; on this fervice he was always employed, and he executed the fame, we have reafon to believe, to the fatisfadtion of both parties. The Eowas and Whannos always eat with the king j nor do we know of any one being exchided from this privilege, but the Toutous ; foi* as to the wo^ men, as wc have already obfen^ed, they never eat with the men, let tbeir rank be ever fo much elevated, Not- withftanding thefe eftablilhed orders, there was very little about Otoo's perlbn or court, whereby a ftranger could diilinguiih the king irom the fubjedt. We rare- ly faw hl;n drefled in any thing but a common piece of cloth v/rapped round his loins ; fo that he feemed to avoid all outward pom^, and even to demean Jiimfelf more than any of his tarees around him. We have feen his m^ijeny work at a paddle, in coming to and go- ing from the Ihip, incommor with others in the boat; and even when fome of his Toutous fat looking on : and ilich is the uncontrouled liberty of this happy ifle, that every individual has free accefs to him without the lead ceremony ; hence it is, that the Earces and other chiefs are more beloved ^han feared by the bulk of the people. We (hould think ourfelves happy in knowing more of this mild and equal government, than the general out- line ; for as to the orders of the conftituent parts, how conftruded, difpofed, and connected, fo as to form one body politic, we can fay but little. From what we have been able to difcover, and gather from information, it feems very evidently to be of the feudal kind ; and a . , remark- CAPTAIN COOK'S SECbND VOYAGE. 841 remarkable conformity appears between the political eftabllihment of Otaiieire, and that oftheantient Bri- ton?, which confifted of feveral fmall nations, under fe- veral pt^tt y princes, or chiefs, who in cafes of commorr dana;er united un()er one head. Thefe chiefs had all of them their r.efpe£iive families, who multiplying, became a diiliiitSl clctfs from the common people, and prefervrd by their perfonal courage, and lenity, a very ^^eat in- fluence over them. Ot thefe two claiTes, added to that of the priePihood, the whole body politic confided : fo that among them, what one clal's found necetfary to command, the other was ready to execute. Hence ic was that induflry took place, and arts were invented ; and this feems to be the prefent rtate of the illands of which we are now fpei^king. Laws they had none, but fuch as arofe from the idea of fupcriority and fub- mlfhon, fuch as excite parents to corre" fuch a crea- ture CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 84^ ture gets his food from the tombs." The character of the Tahowa in Otaheite, very nearly correfponds with that of Druid among the ancient Britons. He is the chief prieft, and his erudition confifts in learning the feveral traditional memorials of ancient times; in being made acquainted with the opinion of their anceftors, concerning the origin of things ; and in the repetition of (hort myfterious fentences, in a language which none but thofe of their own orders can underftand. The Bra- mins of the Eaft have their myftic, unknown tongue, as have alfo all the followers of the great Zoroafter. The priefts are fuperior alfo to the reft of the people in the knowledge of navigation and aftronomy, and in all the liberal arts, of which thefe people have any idea. Thus far the charadler of the Tahowa agrees with that of Druid, in every particular. The Druids were the only perfons of any lort of learning, which confifted in the obfervation of the heavens, knowledge of the ftars, whereby they prefaged future events ; they had the care of all religious matters, and their authority was abfolute. The chief of the Druids, was pontiff or high prie% whofe dignity was eledive. Thus we might trace thi6 conformity of the cuftoms and manners 01 nations rc^ mote from each other, in their infant ftate. We fhall^ conclude this hiftorical fketch of Otaheite with a brief account of their funeral ceremonies, in which the prieft and the people jointly aflift. When a native is known to be dead, the houfe is filled with relations, who deplore their lofs, fome by loud lamentations, and feme by lefs clamorous, but more genuine expreflions of grier. Thofe who are the neareft degree of Vindred; and moft affedted by the event, are filent ; the reft are one moment uttering paflionate expreffions, or excla- mations in a chorus, and the next laughing and talking, without the leaft appearance of concern, much like the manner of the wild mfh ; but this folemnity is continued for a day and a night, whereas by the Irifh it is con- tinued leveral nights. On the next morning the body i^(lirouded,aSid conveyed to the Tea fide on a bier, upon ^O^ . the '■^ 844 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. the (houlders cfrhe bearers, and attended by the priel!, who having prayed over the body, repeats his fcnteneea durlnp; the proccfTion. When they arrive at the water's edge, it is let down on tlie beach : the prieft renews his prayers, and taking up feme of the water in his hand, i'prinkles it towards the body, but not upon it. It is then carried back forty or fifty yards, and fobn after brought again to the beach, where the prayers and fprinkiing are repeated. It it thus removed backwards and foi wards fcveral times ; and during the performarcc of this ceremony, a houfe has been built, and a fmall piece of ground railed round, in the center of which a iiage is erected whereon they place the bier, and the body is left to putrify, till the flelh is wafted from the I'ones. As foon as the body is depofited in the Morai, the mourning is renewed. The women now alfcmble, and are led to the door by the neareft relation, who ftrikes a fhark's tooth feveral times into the crown of Ler head : the blood copiouHy follows, and is carefully J eceived upon pieces of cloth, or linen, which are thrown under the bier. 1 lie reft of the women iollow this ex- ample, and the ceremony is repeated at the inten'al of iwo or three days, as long as the zeal and fbrrow of the 3)arties hold out. The tears alfo which are (bed upon ihis occafion are received upon pieces of cloth, and offered as oblations to the dead. Some of the younger j^eople cut off their hair, which is likewife throw n un- t'er the bier. This cuftcm is founded on the notion, ?s jbme of our gentlemen thought, that the foul of the vleceafed is hovering about the place where the body is depofited ; that it obferves the adions of the furvivors, and is gratified by fuch teftimonies of their afftdion and grief; but whether this is part of the natives' laith is very problematical ; neither, in our opinion, is it certain, that the prieft is an attendant in the funeral proceflion down to the water's edge ; for in the funerals at which Mr Banks v;as a party, no mention i.-i made of a prieft ; and Tuborai Tumaide, who was thief mour- ner, performed the whole cf the funeral iervice. The natives t CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 845 ntives are ?!! faid to fly before thefe procefTiono, and the rcafon afiit^nec! i«, becaufe the chief mourner carries 1,1 his hand a I .)ng fiat (lick, the edge of which is fet with Ijharks' teeth, and in a phrenry,which hiv^ grief is fuppofed Ito have infpired, he runs at all he fees, an J if any of them Ihappen to be overtaken, he ftrikes them moil unmerci- fully with his indented cndgel, which cannot fail to Iwound them in a moft dmgerous manner. Were it only for fear of the cndgel that thefe people Ified, they needed not run fo far as the woods, nor to quit their houfes (as Mr Banks obferved they did when the corple of an old woman, whofe funeral he attended, came by in proceflion) to hide themfelves in holes ; it would have been fufficient for them to have kept out of the reach of the cudgel ; but they muft be awed by fome fccret motive ; f )me fuperftitions dread of fome misfor- tune happening to them, fhould they meet the corpfe, either in an un-ucky place, or in an ominous iiruation ; as at this day many people in the northern parts of Bri- tain get out of the way of a corpfe when carrying to the grave, for thefe or the like reafons. The people of Otaheite, we think, are not intimidated by the appre- henfion of being beaten ; but they may have a dread upon them of they know not what ; yet it in fuch a dread as infenlibly impels them to keep at a diftance, and if they are by accident furprized, and meet a corpfe at the corner of a Ifreet, or the rounding of a hill, they never fail to blefs themfelves, and turn the way the corpfe is carrying, and walk in tne iame direc- tion for feveral paces to avert the bad etlects of the unlucky omen, which they always interpret agaiiilt themfelves. In an account of the funeral ceremonies of the iflanders in the South Seas, the write, who judged from what he himielf faw, and not from what was reported to him, tells us, that the prieif, accom- panied with two boys painted black, attend the Moral, or place where the corple is depoiued, to receive the hogs, fiih, and other provilions, which on thefe occa- iions are ollcrcd to the li:ooa, or deity of the place. and t45 CAPTAIN COOK*« SECOND VOYAGE. and to lay them upon an altar. This pried is alfb ens. ployed in ftrewing over the body of the defundi, leavei and flowers of bamboo ; and for two or three days he occaflonally ranges the adjacent fields and woods, from which every one retires on his approach. The reiJ tions, in the mean time, build a temporary houfe near the moral, where they affemble, and the females moumi lor the deceafed, by finging fongs of grief, howling, and wounding their bodies in different places witn Ikarks' teeth ; after which they bathe their wounds in, the next river or fea, and again return to howl and cut* themfelves, which they continue for three days. After the body is corrupted, and the bones are become bare, the fkeleton is depofited in a fort of ftone-pyramid built for that purpofe. Thefe Morais are frequented by two birds facred to their gods, namely, the grey heron, and a blue and brown king-iilher ; but whether thefe birds, or the prieft and his attendants eat the offerings that are made to the prefiding deity, or whether they are eaten at all, wc are not informed. It is agreed, however, that the piety of the natives is in no inftance fo flrongly exprcfTed as in the profufion ©f covering they be flow upon the remains of their de- ceafed friends, and in the ornaments with which they decorate their morais, but thefe morais are not the re- ceptacles of the ordinary dead, but appropriated to the nfe of the principal families to which each refpedively belongs : how it fares with the bodies of the common kerd we could not learn, whether they are fuffered to rot upon the ground, or under it. We fhall juft add to what has been faid under this bead, that the Otaheiteans have neither phyficians or fiirgeons, by profeflion, except the prieft whofe relief coniifts in prayers and ceremcnies, not in drugs or pre- scriptions ; yet we muft not conclude from hence, that they are deficient in the art of healing. Two or three inftances occur in the relations of different voyagers, which, to fay no more, are ftrikine proofs of their knowledge in what is nefjeflar)'' to preierye life, Tupia tith ihcl lent in al let he wl |ny bad i Imoftcn fye beat { VnesfiftI J appeal done thrl Lion, and! he, like t| foyagoc Jtmthoi Iwe think! Ibcallowej jare incon jhave a kr IwcareeiJ jingqualij heiteand] I them the foil to th they are I hours, an I invafionJ prove fu nor chile which € night (h OnS fine bre the N.\ the iflai trance < veral oi articles heing prefein s alfo cnj. irgel\ fhare upon a youth who appeared to be his grandicn. After ilie diRribution was over, they all returned alhore. Mr Forller, and a party with him, went up the coiia- try to examine its produtftions ; whicli lie continued as a daily talk during the fliip's continuance in this har- hour. As a fervant of Mr l^'orller's was walking along the Ihore, without a companion, he was belet by feve- ral Aout fellows, who would have ftripped him, had not fome of our people arrived to his aftiftance. One of the men made off with a hatchet. This day the number of natives that came about the fhip was lo great, that it was found neceflary to place fentinels in the gangways, to prevent the men from coming oa board ; but no oppofuion was made to the women, i"o tliat the ihip was crouded with them. On Tueulay the 17th, we found Oree,. a^d a great number of the principal people aflembl^Sjih a hoiife confulting together. We heard the late rol^bery men- tioned by them feveral times ; but the chief aflbred 11% neither himfelf nor his friends had any hand in the fame, and defired Captain Cook to kill with His guns thofe that had. We could not learn where the robbers were gone, and therefore, at prefent, took no more no- lice Ot the aiEur. In the evening a dramatic entertain- >nent was exhibited. The fubjeS: of the piece was that of a girl running away with us from Otaheite. This ■was not wholly a fiAion, for a girl had taken her pal- iage with us from Ulietea, and was at this time prefent when her own adventures were reprefented ; Ihe could hardly refrain from teari^ whil6 the play was ading; and it was with much difficulty we perfuaded her to ilay out the entertainment. At the conclufion of the piece, the girl's return to her friends was reprefented ; - ^ and CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. filQ and the reception {he met wiili was not a favoural'ls one. It is very probable that this pnrt of the comedy was deilgncd to deter others from i^oinp; away with us. On Wednefday the 1 8th, kiii«j; Orce came and dined on boart', and tlie Captain, at his dcrire, ortk'r..\l the great guns to he thottcd, and fired into tlic witcr, by way ot (aliitc at his arrival and departure : indecil lie h.^cl by Ocdidee given us to underll.iiid, tliat !\e uxpcLt- ed ibe fame honours to be p:iid to him, as had bjen ihewn to the chiefs of Ot.dicite. A party of pet- ty officers luivinjj; obtained leave to a mule themlclvea in the coU!\try, they took with them fome l.atchets, nails, 5cc. in bags, Wiiicii were carried !-y two iiatives, who went with tlieni as their [jjuides, to ihew the way. Thefe fellows made off with tiie rruit rcrofed in them, and artfully enough effcded their efcape. The party- had with them two mufquets ; and after it hatl rained foine time, the natives pointed our foinc birds for theni to (hoot. One of the guns w^'Mir off and the other miffed fire feveral times. At this inlbiit wlien the fel- lows law thcmfclves fccure from both, they took tfie opportunity to run away, and not one of the party, be- ing all much lurprize J, had prefence of mind enough to purine them. On the 19th, a report was. current, t])nt the natives intended to rif^ and attack the ihip. The Captain, though he did not think them ferious in fucli an at jmpr, yet was unwilling tolally to dilregard the intimation : he therefore ordered twenty iland of arms to he in rea- (linefs, in cafe any commotion fnould be obferved a- mong them ; but though the rumour increafed through- out the day, yet no preparations could be perceived to countenance iuch a report; and the king continued his vifits us ufual, never coming empty handed. On Friday, the 24th, the hrfl and fecond lieutenants, with one or the mates, being out on a iliooting p.irty, they were befct by more than fifty of the natives, who lirlt took from them their arms, and then robbed them of what articles they had carried with them to trade. Vol. I.~-N« 22. 5 P la tso CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND V0YAG2. In the fi iiHIo tlic firft Ilenrcnant loft tlie {l;irt of his coat, and one ot tli" otlicr ;;(>:iileinen received a fcvcrc blcnv, When tiic rr.hhers h;i(l Ihijjpcd them of their mcrchan- dizcs, t liey rellorc'.l to thern their fowling pieees. W hcii this tiMMliiiHl^n eaine 1(^ tlie knowledge of Capt. Cipc'k, he went iintnediarelv w-ilt a boat's crew on ihorc, and tMitercd a l.»rii;e hdulo wherein were two chiefs. "^I'liis, "wirh all their etli <:is, he look poflefiion of, and remained there, till l;c Ixard that th.c j^entlemen had ROt i;»le ci\\ board, and had all their ihin;^s relh^red to them. Oedi- dee informeil ns, Otee Wi;s io much afF'cfted with the relation of this, that lie w.pt mneh. When on board, we learnt from the oiiiccrs themlelves, that a fniall iii- fiilt on tlieir part was the oecafion of the affray ; bur ibme chiefs iritcrfering, took the Ciiiecrs ont of the croud, anil carded every thing that had been taken from them to be rellored. On the 21 ft, we faw upwards of (ix^y canoes, moll of the people in them being Eareeoics, fleering fur Utietea, and we heard they were going to yifit their brethren in the neighbouring illands. It leems thele people have culloms among them peculiar to tficnilelves; and afhd each other when necefiity re- quires : we may therefore call them the Free Mafons of Huaheine. This day Oree lent a meflage to Captain Cook, deiiring he would come on Ihore, and bring twenty-two men with him., in order to fearch for and chaftil'e the robbers. Oedidee brought with him twenty- two pieces of leaves to aflift his memory, a cufiom very common among tliefe people. This meffage feemed to lis an extraordinary one, and therefore the Captain went to the chief for better information. Oree informed him, that thefe fellows were a fet of banditti, who had formed themfelves into a body, and had refolved to rob all they met, for which purpofe they were now aflem- bled and armed. Thele robbers Oree w^anted us to attack ; the Captain faid they would fiy to the moun- tains ; but he alfured us to the contrary, and delired we would deftroy both them and their habitations, only fparing their canoes. This requeft feemed extraordinary, but CAPTAIN COOK'8 Sr.COND VOYAGE. 851 b»if ilie Caprala was rcfolveJ to comply vvitlj it in parr, U.W rhiifc fellows IhouUl make more licat', aiul hccomc tormiclabic ; and alio wiili a vif'w of preventing tlie rc- j)ort from gaining pjronnd in Ulictea, where vve iniend- nl qoinp, and we \vtrc appri^licnlive alloeiations mi}.^lit hcf(^rmcdin like manner, and the penj)le might treat lis ill the fame way or wnrfe, they hein^jj more numerons. Capr. Cook and liis ofllecrs made ready to aceon>pany kin;:!; Oree in the expedition againft tlic rohl;ers; and having ordered lifty marines with Ibme failort? to he well armed, they landed near tlic palace of the kin;]:, and having required him to condndt ih.em r.ci:c);dinf; to liis promife, he very readily eonfentcd, and iIkv all la out together in very j;ood order. The party iin-re. It in ma- king CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 853 [king different forts of iron tools, that an influence might be kept up at the other iilands, and to enable us to pro- cure refvelhments. On Tuefday the 24th, we anchored in Ulietea, and were vifited by Oreo the chief, who brought with him a haudibme preibnt. A party of us went alhore to make the chief a prefent, and as we entered his houie we were met by five old women, who lamented very bitterly, and cut their faces in a fliocking manner. This was ni:t the ivoril part of the ftory, for we were obliged to fubmii to their embraces, and get ourl'elves covered with blood. After this ceremony was over, they walhed themfelveu, and appeared as chearful as any other perlon. On Friday the 27th, Oreo paid us a vifit, in com- pany with his wife, ion and daughter, and brought with them a very handibme prefent cjf all kinds nf re- freihments. We accompanied triem on Ihore after din- ner, and were entertained with a play, which con- cluded with the reprefentation of a woman in labour, performed by a fet of brawmy fellows ; the child that was brought forth was at Icaii fix feet high. As foon as the child was delivered, they prelled his nofe, which learned to indicate that they really take tliis method with all their children, which occaiions that flatnei« which their nofes generally have. On the 29th, ieveral things were ftolen out of our boats, which lay at the buoy; but on application to the chief, we had them all returned, except an iron tiller, and in lieu of that they brought us two large hogs. On Monday, r've thhtieth, a party of us let out for Oedidee's tftate accompanied by the chief and his family, When wc arrived there, we found that Oedidee could not wmmand any thing, though he had promifed us hogs and fruit in abundance ; they were now in poffei- fionof his brother. We had here an opportunity cf feeing them kill and drefs a pig, which was done in the following manner : three men firfl Wrangled the hog ; the hog was laid on his back, two men laicl a (tick acrols «54 CAPTAIN COOK*s SECOND VOYAGE. his throat, prciTing at each end, llie third man ftiuTrd UT> his fundnmcnt with gra!s, and hcM his hind icgs. The hog was ktpt in this pofition for ten minutes, U- fore he was death An oven, uliicii was clofc by, was Iieate^L They laid the hog on the fire as foon as he I was dead, and linged off his hair ; he was then carried to the fea-iide and wallied. The carcafe was then laid on clean green leaves, that it might l)e opened. They I firil took out tlie lard, and laid it on a green leaf, the entrails were then taken out and carried away in a bafJ kct ; the blood was put into a large leaf. The hog was then waihcd quite clean, and feveral l^pt itones were put jnvo his body ; he was then placed 'til the oven en his| belly, tlie lard and fat were put into a vellcl, with two nr three hot itones, and placed alongfide :!ic hog ; the blood was tied up in a leaf, with a liot fione and pur into the oven ; they covered the whole v.'ith leaves, c;i which were placed the remainder of the hot ftones; ihey iili-erwards threw a great deal of rubbifli in, and covered the whole with earth. A table was fpread with green leaves, Vvduic the hog was baking, which took up iittle more than two hours. We fat down at one end of the table, and the natives, who dined with us, at the ©dier; the fat and blocd were placed before them, and the hog before us. We thought the pork exceeding good indeed, and every part of it was well done. The natives chieily dined of the fat and blood, and faid It was very good victuals. The whole of this cookery was concluded with remarkable clcanlinefs. This cftato of Oedidee vv-as I'mall, but very plcaiant ; and the hoiifes formed a pretty village. After we had dined, we re- turned to ih^ iliip, In ur way we faw four wooden images, each two feet long. They Hood on a fhelf, had z large piece of cloth round the middle, a turban on their heads, (luck with cocks' feathers. They told us rhefe v/ere their fervants' gods. On Tuefday the 3 ift, the people hearing that we In- tended failing, brought abundance of fruit on board, ^hicU continued on the ill of June. YIq were in- form CAPTAIN cook: s SECOND VOYAGE. 85^ formed that t^^'o n>ip« hnrma'"ioa defcrihed the per- [on3 of Captain Furncaiix and iVlr ijuiks I'o well, that we had no doiil)t of the truih of the ailertiou ; \yz therefore thoii^j^iit of lending a hoat over there, but a man came on board, and declared the whole to h(^ a lye. KVe could not conJront the fellow wlio brought tlie iu- telllf:;ence, for he was ,Q;one away, and the dar.^^er of 1 lending the boat was put a Hop to. On Saturday the 4rh of Ju.ie, the chief and biisfami- llycame on board to tnke leave, brintrhi;; a tiandfomo prcfent with them. 'I'hele people denied that tiiere Vvcre any ihips at Huaheiue. We weie very miicl; im- portuned to return to tliis |)lace ; when we told tbeiu we could not, their grief wa-^ hi; for, and we believed it to be real. Tbey dofired Ciiptiin Cook to acquaint [them with his burial place, and laid tiiey v/cuid be buried with him. A Orong proof of iiliriVton and at- tachment. We left Oedidee here, as we touid not pro- inife that more (hi'*'* would be fent from Iinc:land to thole iiland;; : lie left us v/ith irdinko regi-et. Oedidee did not leave us till we were out (*f t'ne iiavbour, and fiaid to fire fome }"?!« ftore a cooper's adze which tnlt^'^'ai '' '"^" :° «- jng, and he went away a, . .'?" "°'^" "'« morn- but we were miftaken for U r "S'^'' '" f'^t'^h it- wounded man ftretched ou on at j?'"^'^ T"'' "'« The furgeon was fent to drefs 1^? 1 ai'l^iently dea.l. his opmion, were but Hi-. ,7 .„ 'T?""*, wiiich, i„ Captain Cook ftill in«fte f ' ^"^ "° '^onfecmence ^atdealofdifficultySine^i^ "^A^^'f^' *"''-'*« tented a young rirl to r,"/- V ^" °''' ^'•'oman nre- «nderftan5 tha? ^e vva,^ t^ i'^i^"?"^' gll'ng hiJ"to f!ful enough, and wan ed to bf^W ^'"' S""' ^as He nail, neither of which tl?^ r ^'' • ^°.' ^ "'« and a He was then given to unt'tn^Zl^''^ ■''l'^ ''™' wth her upon credit, which he If rl.''^ 4?'S''t '•etiro wrefs then abufed him YkvwV ^''•. .^'"^ old pro- c arms; the girl wr;er J S T^''^"'''^'^ '° h^r . aboard the fliip with th^ rl^f •'^' ","'' "'^"^ed to ro / 'fe her, as he had given ote"' "' ''" ^''^"'^' "o^ iaift, :^ /vhen a ils, and qI waift. their p We fa^ we clce iOand. pretty < very fej better k able. thefe t\ treachei N.E.p ofiSd. terminal leagues S. E. w appeare( about tei caft end we faw fight of i S. and al had paflt figiit, anc toS. 87. night we biing noi offmoke We nc fmall inle Two armi were fent andoiT,tc that migh natives 01 canoes; ai launched i tipoper nii CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE, B67 waift. They live in houfes covered with thatch, and their plantations are laid out by line, and fenced round. We favv no canoes in any part of the ifland. On Thurfday the 4th of Auguft, at two o'clock P. M. we cleared the l^ay, and fteered for the fouth end of the ifland. Wc difcovered on the S. W. fide of the head a pretty deep bay ; its (hores low, and the land appeared very fertile, but bein^ cxpofed to the S. E. winds, until better known, we think that on the N. W. fide prefer- able. The promontory or peninfula, which disjoins thefe two bayswc named^ Traitor's Head, from the treacherous behaviour of its inhabitants ; it forms the N. E. point of the ifland, and is fituated in the latituds of 18 a. 43 m. S. and in 1 69 d. 28 m. E. longitude. It terminates in a faddle hill, which may be feen 16 or 18. leagues off at fea. We continued our courfe to the S. S. E. when the new ifland we had before difcovcrcd, appeared over the S. E. point of one near us, dift:ant about ten leagues. Leaving the lafl, we fleered for thq eafl end of the former, being direded by a c^reat light Vv'e faw upon it. On the 5th, at fun rife we came in fight of an ifland, being high table land, bearing E. by S. and alfo difcovered another little low ifle which we had paffed in the night. Traitor's Head was ftill 1q figut, and the ifland to the S. extended from S. 7 d. W. to S. 87 d. W. diftant four miles. The light feen in the night we now found to have been a volcano. A rum- bling noife w^as heard, and it threw up great quantities of fmoke ajid fire. We now fteered for the ifland ; and difcovered a fmall inlet which had the appearance of a good harbour. Two armed boats, under the command of Lieut. Cooper, were fent ofFin order to found, while the fliip flood on and oiT, to be ready to follow or to afford any afTiftance that might be required. We obferved a number of the natives on the eafl point of the entrance, alfo feveral canoes ; and w^hen our boats entered the harbour they launched fome, but came not near. At this time Lieut, tpoper made the fignal for anchorage, and we flood in ] 86S CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. with the {hip. The wind havinp; left us when we were within the entrance, we were obliged to drop anchor, in four fathoms \vater. The boats were now ient out to find a better anchorage ; and while we were thus em- J)loyed, many of the natives came in parties to the fea ide all armed, fome fwam off to us, others ca-^^.e in ca* tioes. At flrft they feemed afraid of us, and iccpt at a diftance, but by degrees waxed bolder, and at length came under our . ftem, arid made fome exchanges. Thofe in one of the fir ft canoes threw towards us fome cocoa-nutSk The Captain went out in a boat, picked them up, and in return gave them feveral articles. Others were induced by this to come along-fide, who behaved in a moft infolent manner. They attempted to tear our flag from tlie ftaiF, would have Knocked the rings from the rudder, and w^ had no fooner thrown out the buoys of the anchor from the boats than they got hold of them. We fired a few miifquets in the air, of which they took no notice, but a four pounder alarm- ed them fo much, that they quitted their canoes, and took to the water. But finding themfelves unhurt, they got again into their canoes, flourilhed their weapons, hallooed in defiance, and vyent again to the buoys, but a few mufquetoon (hot foon difperfed them. They ail retired in^afte, and we fat down to dinner, unmolelled. In the iiiterval of thofe tranfadions, an old man, who feemed to be amicably difpqfed, came feveral times, in a fmall canoe between us and the fhore, bringing off each time cocoa-nuts and yams, for which he took in ex- change whatever we offered him. Another was in the gangway when the great gun was fired, after which we could not prevail on him to ftay. In the evening we landed at the head of the harbour, wiih a party of meii well armed. The natives made not the leaft oppofiti.in, though we had one body on our right, and another on our left, all armed. We diftributed among the old peo- ple fome prefents of cloth and medals, and filled two cafks with frelh water, an article we gave them to un- derftand we much wanted. We got ia return plenty of cocoa- CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 85> cocoa-nuts, but could not prevail on them to part with tlieir weapons, which they held conUantiy in a pofturc of defence. The oid man was in one ot thefe jyartics, but by his behaviour, we judged his temper to be pa- cilic. We thought, by their preffing lb much, in fpite of all our endeavours to keep th.em at a dillance, that little would be waning to induce them to attack us ; but \vc re-embarked very loon, and thus, probably, their fcheme was dilconcerrcd. Saturday the 6th, we brought the Ihip as near the landing-place as pofTible, that we might overawe the naives^ and cover the party on (liore, who were to get a fupply of wood and water, wliich we much want* cd. While we were upon this bulineCs, we chferved the natives aflembling from all p ut's, all armed, to the amount of feme thoufands, who fcjrmcd themfelves into two diviiions, as they did the preceding evening, oil each fide the landing- pl-ice. At intervals a canoe :ame off, at times condu(fted ')y one, two crth.rec men, bring- ing us cocoa-mits, ^^c. for which they did not require any thing in return, though we took care they Ihonjd always have fomeihmg: but their principal intention Teemed to be, to invite us afliore. The oid man before mentioned, came off to us feveral times, and the Captain with a view of making him underitand, that he vranted to eftablifh a friendly intercourfe, took his w^eapons that were in the canoes, and threw^ them overboard, and made him a prefent of a piece of cloth. He underilood the meaning of this, for w^e faw him frequently in con- veriluion with his countrymen, to whom he made our requeft known, going firit to one party, then to another^ nor did we afterwards fee him with his weapons, or in a warlike manner. Soon after a canoe, in which were three men, came under our ilern, one of whom beliw-* fed very outrageoufly, brandiihing his club, and itriking with it the Ihip's tide ; at laft he oiTcrcd to exchange his vveapon for a Itring of beads, and otiier trifies ; thefe we fern down to him by a line, of which he had no fconer got polTeflioii, than he made ciT, without delivenpg his club. $70 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. club. We were not forry for this, as it afForded us an opportunity of fliewing the people on f/.ore the efFctl of our fire arms. We therefore without hefitation, com- plimented this fellow with the contents of a fowling piece, loaded with fmall (hot, and when the others were out of the reach of mufquet fl^ot, we fired fome muf- quetoons, or wall pieces, at them, w^iich made them take to the water. But all this feemed to make very lit- tle imprcfTion on the people aftiorc, who began to hal- loo, and feemlngly made a joke of it. Having moored the fliip, with her bread-fide to the landing-place, and fcarccly mufquet fliot off, we plant- ed cur artillery in fuch a manner as to command the whole harbour, and then embarked with a party of fea- men, fupported by the marines, and rowed to the land- ing-place, where we have before obferved the natives were drav/n up in two divifions. The intermediate fpace between them was about forty yards, in which were laid a few plantains, two or three roots, and a yam. Between thefe and the water* four fmall reeds Were ftuck upright in the fand, in a line at right angles to the fliore, tor what purpofe we could not learn. Tliey remained here for fome days. By thefe the old man Hood, and tivo companions, who by various figns invited us to land, but we thought thefe a decoy, and looked fomething like the trap we had like to have been caught in at the laft iHand. We made figns for the diviiions to retire back, but to thefe they paid not the leafl: regard, their number every moment was aug- mented, and, except two or three old men, not one unarmed. From all thefe circumftances we concluded they meant to attack us as foon as we landed ; but this we wifhed to avoid, as many of them muH: have been killed or wounded, and we could not expe£t to come off without fome damage. We thought it therefore better to frighten them into a more peaceable beha- viour, and therefore a mufquet w^as fired over the party on our right, which for about a minute had the defired effect, but they foon returned to their during behaviour, learn. le old fi'^ns , and have ns for lid not ^» )t one tluded It this been Icome refore Ibeha- jparty ^fired 'iour^ CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 871 The (hip was then ordered, by fignal, to fire two or three great guns, which prclently difperfed them. Wc immediately landed, and markecl out the limits on the right and left, by a line. Our old friend, who flood his ground, we rewarded with a prefent. ^ome of the na- tives returned, with a more friendly afpeft. Many came without their weapons, but the greateft part with them. We made figns that they fliould lay them down, and they gave us to underftand, that we mult lay down ours firft. Thus both fides ftood under arms, and the prefents we made to the old people had litile influence on their conduct. Many were afraid to touch what belonged to us, and climbing the cocoa-nut trees, they threw us down the nuts, but ihey feemed to have no . notion of exchanging one thing for another, though wc always took care they (hould have a comi)cnra!ion. We took the old man (whofe name we now found to be Paowang) to the woods, and made him underftand we wanted to cut down fome trees, to which he readi- ly confented, provided fruit trees were not of the num- ber. At the lame time we cut down fome trees» which we put into our boats, and a few fmall cafks of water, with a view of letting the natives fee what we cliicfly wanted. Tlius far matters were pretty well fettled : we returned on board to dinner, and they all dilpcrfed. In the afternoon a fifhirig party went out. We loaded the launch with water, and, luiving made three hauls with the feine, caught upwards of three hundred pounds of mullet and other fiih. During this time not a'jova thirty of the natives appeared, among whom was our trufty friend Paowang, who made us a prefent of a pig, the only one we got at this place. Throughout the night the volcano, which was about four miles to the Weil of us, emitted vail quantities of fire and inioke, at- tended by a violent rumbling noiie : this was increafed by a heavy (hower of rain, which fell at this time. The noife was like that of thunder, or the blowing up of niines ; the flames were feen to rife above the hills ; and* tiie air was loaded with afhes, v;ith which every things waa 872 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE.. was covered. They rcfcmblctl a kind of fine fand, or rather flone ji;round to powder, and the dull was not a little troul)Icroine to the eyes. On Sunday the 7th, tfic natives bec;an to afTemhlc again, early in tlie luorninp;, with their weapons, as before, hut not in fuch numbers : notwithdanding this, we landed in order to get wntcr, and cut wood. \Vc found moll of tlie old people difpofed to he our friends, but the younger beinj; daring and inlblcnt, obliged U8 to (land to our arms. Mr Kdgecunibc, one of the lieute- nants who commanded the party, fu td, and wounded a man with a fwan-lhot, after which the others behaved better, and when our people embarked they all retired in a peaceable manner. While we were at dinner an old man came on board, and after having examined fe- veral parts of tlic Ihip, returned to his friends on ihore. We were now on a tolerable footing with fuch of the natives who lived in the neighbourhood, who only made their appearance, ib that a fcrjeant's guard v.as thought fuflicient for the protedion of the wood and rater parties. Some of our people had left an ax on w the beach or in the woods, which Paowang returned to lis ; nlfo a few other articles which had been loft through negligence. The natives invited fome of our people to go home with them, on condition that they would ilrip themfelves naked as they were; a proof of their not harbouring a deHgn of robbing them, whatever other they might have. On the 8th, early in the morning, the launch was fent under the protedlion of a party of marines in an- other boat, to take in wood, water, and ballaft, when the natives feemed pretty well reconciled to us. On the 9th, our people were employed about the fame bufinels, and Captain Cook was received very courteoufly by the natives, though armed, infomuch that there was no longer any occafion to mark out the limits by a line, feeing they obferved them without this precaution. He prevailed en a young man, named Wha-a-gou, to ac- cgmpany him on board, but nothing in the ihip feem- ed CAPTAIK COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. $73 cd to cnqnp;c his attention. The goats, dogs, and cats, he called l>y the iame name, which, in his language, fifrnifies hogs. Me fcenicd more fond of a dog and birch than of any other animals, and wc prcfcnlod him with one of each. Ho fat down to dinner with us, hut would only juft tafle our fait pork ; however he cat pretty heartily of yam, and dranlc a gl:\(b of wine. Iv^mc of this young man's friends were prohahly ci<)iil)tii!l <)f his fafcty, and therefore followed him in a canoe, ijut onfpeaking to them out of the cahin window, they went on more, and foon returned with a coclc, fome cocoa- nuts, and a fugar cane. After dinner he was condu(^- ed alhore loaded with prefents. Upon landing fome of his friends took Captain Cook hy the hand, and, as we underllood, would have led him to their hahi rations, but on the way, they made a fudden ftop, and were 'unwilling he fhould proceed. The Captain was dcfired to fit down. During this interval fevcral of our gen- tlemen paifed us, at which they exprefled great uneafi- nefs, and importuned the C'aptain fo much to order them back, that he was ohliged to comply. Indeed they were not only jealous of our going up the country, but even along the ftiore of the harbour. While wc were waiting here, our friend Paowang brought us a prcfent of fruit and roots, by a party of twenty men, though they might all have been carried by two ; per- hcips this might be done ''"7'th the view of making the prelbnt appear the greater; lor one had a bunch of plan- tain, anotner a yam, a third a cocoa-nut, &c. The Captain paid thefe porters, though the prefcnt was ia return for one he had made in the morning. Wha-a- gou and his friends were ftill for detaining us, and ieemed to wait with impatience for fomething to give lis in return for the dogs, but night approaching, wc defired to depart ; and they complied with our folicita- tions. We now learnt, by means of Mr Forfter*s en- quiries, that the proper name of this illand is Tanna. The natives alfo told us the names of other neighbour- ing ifles. That we touched at laft is called Erromango ; Vol. I.— N° 22. 5 S the •74 CAPTAIN COOK'b SECOND VOYAGE. the fmall one which we faw tlie morning we landed here immcr; the table ifland to the eaft, difcovered at the Tame time, Erronan, or Footoona : and one that lies to the S. E. Annattom ; all which illands are to be leen from Tanna. It is a little remarkable, that the na- tives of this ifland were more fcrupalous in taking any jthing from the failors, than thofe of any other nation, and never would touch with their bare hands what was given them, but always received it betw^een green leaves, which they after waras tied up and carried upon the ends of their clubs ; and if any of our feamen touched their fkin they always rubbed the part with a green leaf. When thefe people make a wonder at any thing, they cry^ Hebow, and fliake their right hands. They wear .bracelets, like as the Indians of Venemons Bay, in which they flick their hair pricker, and likewife their flings, with which they throw their javelins : and it isaftonilh- ing with what dexterity and force fome of them, will hit a mark. One of them, in the prefencc of the lirll lieutenant, (hot a fifh as itfwam along in the fea,at the diftance of twenty-fix yards, with a bow and arrow, which fifh the lieutenant carried on board w^ith the ar- row flicking in his body, as a proof of what he had ken performed. But notwithflanding their delicacy and (kill as markfmen, they gave us to underlland that they eat one another; and one day, when the inhabitants about the bay had marched forth armed, on an expedi- tion, to a diftant part of the ifland, thofe that re- mained invited us to feaft upon a man whom they had barbiqued, which invitation our gentlemen refufcd with the utmofl difguft. It has been faid, that no nation could be cannibals, had they other flefli befides human to eat, or did not want food ; but we cannot afcribe the favage cuflom of theft people to neceflity, fmce the ifland abounds with plenty of hogs, fowls, vegetables, and fruit. While fome of'^the people was employed in fearching for ballafl, they difcovered water ifTuing from the crevices of a rock, hot enough to draw tea ; which ^circumflance led to the dif^overy of fome hot fprings, at the e landed verecl at one that ire to be : the na- "ing any nation, hat was 1 leaves, lie ends ed their in Jeaf. ?. they Y Wear which flings, onilh- m. will le firlt at the irrow, he ar- il feen '' and itants pedi- t re- ^had with ition CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 87J the foot of the cliff, below high- water mark. In one place the waters were io hot, that there was no bearing the finger in them : in another they were juft hot enough to bear to plunge the whole body, but not re- main long therein. Two of the fliip's company, who had been troubled with rheumatic complaints, at rimes, throughout the voyage, went accompanied with thq iiirgeon, to one of thefe fprings, but found the flones lb hot that they could not ftand upon them, without tirft plunging in fomc of their cold garments, to keep the foles of their feet from touching them ; but the cffe(ft of thefe Waters was found to be only a temporary relief. On Wednefday the loih, Mr Wales accompanied by fome of the officers, proceeded for the firft time into the country, and met with civil treatment from the natives. They faw in the courfe of this and another excurfion, feveral fine plantations of'plantaias, fugar-canes, &c. and by this time, the natives in our neighbourhood, appear- ed fo well reconciled to us, that they expreffed no marks of difpleafure at our rambling fhooting parties. But after we had been feveral days taking in wood and water, they began again to be troublefome, watching every opportunity to level their arrows at the guard, and leeni- cd to be reftrained only by the fear of their mufquets from proceeding to extremity. It is more than probable, however, that an acSt of violence on the part of our men, might, by a wanton ufe of their fire-arms, have caufed their refentment ; for in the afternoon of this day, a few boys, having thrown two or three ilones at the wood- cutters, they were fired at by the petty officers prel'ent on duty. Having occafion for fome large timber to repair the decays of the ftiip, orders had been given a few days before, to cut down a tree of vaft growth ; and for the convenience of getting it aboard, to faw it into three pieces. This tree fo divided, the natives eyed with pleafure, not fufpeding our men intended to carry it off, but to leave it in compliment to them, as it fuited exactly their ideas of conftruding jult double the num-i J S 2 bejc «7« CAPTAIN C00K*8 SECOND ' .AGE. ber of canoes. To the cutting down and fawing the trees the natives made no oppnfition ; but when iheyi faw the failors employed in rolling down the body of | the tree lo i!>e water's edge, they could not help lock- ing iurly ; arsd one of them, probably more interefted than tuc rcfi, wns frequently icen to offer liis ipearat the labourers, but was reftrained tor fear of the guard; a.t length he watch-^d Ids opportunity, and, ftarting from behiuvi a balhj v/.'-.'; leveling an arrow at the command- ing officer, when he was dilcovered, ami fh(?t dead. The ball tore his arm to pieces, and entered his Tide. His companions inftantly carried of? the body, and laid it in the wood, where the (hip's furgeon went to examine it, but found the man totally deprived of life. Capt. Cook was much difpleafed with the conduct of thefe officers, and took meafures to t)revent a wanton ufe of fire-arms for the future. The ihip's company were now permit- ted to go afhore only by turns, for the preferv-irion of their health; and the Captain knowing the natives u-antcd nothing fo much as an opportun'^v to revenge the t'euih of their companions, ftri«Stly ined them never to walk alone ; nor to (tray more u-un loo yards from the guard. On Thurfday the i ith, during the night, the volcano Was very troublefome, and threw out great quantitiefi of fire and fmokc, with a rnoft tremendous noife ; and Sometimes we faw great ftones thrown into the air. In fcveral parts of the harbour, places were found from whence a fulphureous fmell ilFucd, and the ground about thefe was very hot. Mr Forfter apd his botanizing party, on one iide of the harbour, fell in with our fiend Paowang's houfe. Moft of the articles he had received from us werefeen hanging about the buffies and trees near his dwelling. On the I2th, the volcano was more fqrious than ever^ and we were much molefted with the afhei. Some of our gentlemen attempted to aicend a hill at fome diilance, with an intent of obferving the volcano more diiiin£tly ; but they were obliged to rc- tre^it precipitately, the ground under them being fo hot, that; M^' » CAPT.MK COOK. SECOND VOVAGE , oftheearth ; yet 'in ti.rf^d erheS ^'"^i'''''^ STuS tor cutaneous tlifbrden Ti, i- a^"^^' '"^ek a rcme/v ho ding a cliild over the fm^l ^°'"'^'' "^''''^^vinK a^nau quire the reafon, who mi? V '*• '"1 "'<= curiofi.y toen ^•e child', erup'tilns! ff t wTs^rl-oTf ^"''' ^'>' ^^^-"s The ram that fell this daJ „ '' publcd xvitl, the iicJ? "■'d !^rth; fo that ^^t'^^ "'!■«'"/' of waterS we flioiild this day eo f.r ,,,1 ,i ° '"^ unwillin^j that Jead of fl>ewi„^Vr 'w^;rtt'''t ''^^-' ft- S'- -ar the harbour^a^„f-.^- found On Saturday thp t '»fl> r> dmewith us. We took'fMl°"''"Scameon board to '-n every part of tSip^^J^^P'^^of fte^lg I'cles, hoping he might fee Clt "l'^' °f '"ding arl fo a traffic be carrifd on w^-h ,k "^ '^•'" '>^ ''it«d. and ■nents, of which what we h!,l ',''.\"*"^" for refreft- !fy trifling. But pLw!nt K "u^"° °'^'»i"ed were the greatett indifference /v^ ^''''''' ^^^^^ thing wkh *h.ch he took fomrno'lcrT,',r"°'^? ^^''''-Cof mJeavoured to get a ne rer vTew of X''' " f "^ "^ "* tojic our rout bv thf* «,,,, c ^ "^^ voJcano. anrl «i[?dy mentioned In 'L °"' "'^ "'^'"^ J^" W S* was put . th;ri f„^„Kref l'^-=". ''°'^' '"^ ''"n- The mercury rofe m 7^„ ,"^*"''«" « conftruc- «>«t rea,ai„ed in the hoiene^^fh^'''' '•''""''= '"«""- «s n/ing or failing. Atli, n? 'f' ""°"f« without of white clay, and had If f l'^"^ "'= «=^«h was a S "ufl, having upon it {omehZf ^"^^ '''^' » thin dry fence tafting Ii4 alJum ThlP '""■' 'S-t"" """""<= f"2^ Hand where we m?de th.^P "? ^'^'^'^^'' -"oft by the ¥t or tea yards Sai^'^'^"™?"'.-- not aCe - ^ ^' ^«af this 1V2S a fig-tree ■whicij 9^t CA/?TAIM COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. wliicli feemed to like its fituation. Wt proceeded up the hill through a country entirely covered with plants, (hruKs and trees, infomuch that the hread-fruit, and ccxroa-niit f'ces, were in a manner choaked up. Here and there we met with a few people, a houfc or two and fome nlnntations ?ti different Hates ; one appearinpj of long itapding ; another lately cleared ; and feveral juil ready for plautinp^. The clearing a piece of ground mull he a work of much time and labour, feeing their working tools, though the fame ^?. thofe ufed in the Society ffles, are interior to the'Tt ; neverthcleJs their inethoil is jiuiicious, and as expeditious as well can be. 'riiey dig under the roots of ine large trees, and tlicre burn the branches, plants, and I'mali Ihruhs. In fomc parrs, the foil is a rich black mould ; in others a kind of compolt formed of decayed vegetables and the alhes of the volcano. We now came to a plantation where we iiw f* man at w^ork, who offered to be our guide. We had not walked fiu' before we came to the jundlion of two roads, in one of which rtood a man with a fling and Hone, which he would not lay down till a mufquet was pointed at him ; he fecmcd, however, determined to dilpute the roul with us, and pi^rtlv gained his point, for our guide led us another way. I'he other man fol- ic wed, halooing, as wc fuppofed, for a reinforcement, a'iid, indeed, we were prefently joined by others of the natives, among whom was a young woman with a club in her hand. Thele ]>eop!e conduced us to the brow of a hill, and pointed to a road leading down to the harbour. But not chuilng to take this, we returned to that we had left, and here our guide refi.fed to go any farther with us. Having afcended another ridge, we faw other hills between us and the volcano, which feemed as far off as at our firft: letting out. We there- fore refolved to return, and jull as we were about lb doing, we were met by 20 or 30 people, aiFembled as •we thought to oppofe our advancing into the country, for when they faw us returning, they fuffered us to go on unmolciled, and by the way regaled m with a varietv of CAPTAIN COOr. SECOND VOy.cE , f fruits. What we d;,l n.. ''» brought down the Ml w "k 't> °" "'^ l'^. they people courteous and hofel wl'"' '"''' '"""d'thel? to a contrary conducl by S'a' -^ '" '"".' P'""'np"; ""ey were ranee of our 'real delirTl •■''.'''' '•' "•^'<^. ^"di™^ a nend, viht. but c!,*; fider ^^11' f^ • ^'^ '" P^^ '""« tending this, might thev nn ? r '"■ .'^"''^^"'"'tances at- wjthflanding foir^apSnces ^hr^''''^ '"^P"'^' "ot the r country ? Did we7,o enter th^ ''"" '" '"^^''^ their daring to opnofe ? n;,l "'*"■ PO«s, withoiir 'he /u nerio^ty of Z ann^ P^ wLT/ .f '^""^ '^ '«" ^4 by be jeafous of fuch intm,);.,' /i "''' ^^X "ot, therdor/ deavourcd to advice in o^th";'"«'''' • When we eS pant bag, having been o^ee or T"^' ^''° "^^ed C as.the carrying of bundles islhT 'ffi"^ attempted : but this country, Others thond h.^'^' ''f the women of h"n for a woman. T^u? L^ "'"^'''' ,'"'ght miftaii party, and as he follow^ 2erT, ■°i''y '^"^ of our having h s bajj as uliiil . i S-aptain down the hill -lonverlidon fnd Ssrftt'"'^-""^^'-'*^^^^^^^ fidered him as a fe.S . j "."""'es. that thev con they difcovered th^fljf '"^en, by fome mean" n.uch furprize, £ ramanr Vt,'''*^^ "'^'^"''^'^' S Itis a man ! Every o, p^;," ^"^^'"^"58 •' It is a man ' ?Tured, they had befr"; mT'i-PT'^*^''' ^^'f ^^"weli «Plam,howHable 4 are tofcr" I'l/"' ^'"I hence k opmmns of a peooir wht u r' ^"'' wnjeaures rnd 7= haequainfedTKd Ce'S no°";;'«^- "^ ^^^ '^^ , f". It IS not to be f^nI.^^^.l I .^^ "^^^ ^^'en undsceir .•^'e been charged wfthe"^ r'"' ''•'"'' "^'J"''^ wo" t a fparepne al)oard. Wo knew of but one tj«teinthe mighboui' ocd that would do for our purpof^r. 'The carpenter Wi>s fent afliore to examine it,- and upon his report . r>:irty ot men were > diredtfd to cut it down, after the confent of tiie natives had been obtained. They did not nuke tiie \gM\ ob-- jedion, and our men went inftantly to work. Much time waS'neceflary to cut it down, a ' ' tree was large ; . and before they had finithed their work, word was broughtsto the Captain, that our friend Paowang was • not pleafed. Paowang was fent for, and our neceffity explained to him. We then made him a prefent of a, piece of cloth and a dog, which readily obtained his Vol I,— N" xj. iX QQtk- ^i.'%^: tSi CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. confent, arid the voices of thofe that were with him it our favour. Having thus obtained our point, we con- duced our friend on board to dinner ; after which wc went with him aftiore to pay a vifit to an old chief, who w^8 faid to be the king of the illand ; though as Pao- wang took little notice of him, we doubted the fad. His name was Geogy. He had a cheatful open coun* tenance, though he was old, and wore round his waift a broad red and white chequered belt. His fon was with him, who could not be lefs than fifty years old. At this time a great concourfe of people from diftant parts were affembled near the watering place. The be- haviour of many was friendly ; of others daring^ and in* folent ; which we did not think prudent to reicnt, as our ftay was nearly at an end. On W^dncfday the 17th, old Geogy and his fon, with feveral of his friends, dined with us on board the (hip, every part of which they viewed with uncom- mon attention and furprize. They made a hearty din- ner on a pudding made of plantains and greens ; but would hardly tafte our fait beef and pork. In the after- noon they were conducted afhore by the Captain, after he had prefented them with a hatchet, fome medals, and a fpike nail. On the 1 8th, the Captain and Mr Forfter tried, with Fahrenheit's thermometer, when the tide was out, the head of one of the hot fprings ; and where the water bubbled out of the fand from under the rock, at the S. W. corner of the harbour, the mercury rofe to 202 de- grees. It is an opinion with philofophers, that volca- nos mufl be on the fummits of the higheft hills ; yet, this volcano is not on the higheft part of the ridge, but on the S. E. fide of it ; and fome of the hills on this ifland are more than double the height of that on which the volcano is, and clofe to it. Nor is it lefs remarkable, that in wet or moift weather, the volcano is more vio- lent in its eruptions. We muft here content ouri'elves with ftating fads : the philofophical reafoning on thefe phaeno* CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 8S3 phaenomena, we leave to men of more abilities, whofe talents may lay in this line. On Friaay the 1 9th, we prepared for failing, as the tiller was finiQied ; but the wind being unfavourable, the guard and a party of men were fent aOiore, to bring off the remainder 01 the tree from which we had cut the tiller. The Captain went with them, and found a^ good number of the natives collected together near the landing-place, among whom various articles were d\(- tributed. At the time our people were getting feme large logs into the boat, the centry prefented his piece at one of the natives, and, without the leaft apparent caufe fired at and killed him. A few of the natives had juft before advanced within the limits, to fee what we were about, but upon being ordcjred back, they readily obeyed. The centry pretended, that a man had laid his arrow acrofs his bow, fo that he apprehended him- felf in danger ; but this had been frequently done, out of a bravado, to (hew they were armed, and prepared equally with ourfelves. Captain Cook was highly ex-*- afperated at this rafcal's raih conduct ; and moft of the people fled with the utmoH: precipitation. As they ran off we obferved one man to fall j and the Captain went with the furgeon, who was fent for, to the man, whom they found expiring. His left arm was much {batter- ed, and from hence tne ball had entered his body by the Ihort ribs, one of which was broken. What rendered this incident the more aflfeding was, that the man who bent the bow was not (hot, but one who ftood by him. The natives were thrown into fuch confternation, t}iat they brought abundance of fruit, which they laid down at our feet. They all retired when we returned aboard to dinner, and only a few appeared in the afternoon, a- mong whom were Paowang, and Wha-a-gou. • On Saturday the 20th, the wind was favounible for getting out of the harbour ; for during the night it had veered round to the S. E. At four o clock A. M. we therefore began to unmoor, and, having weigh ea our anchor, put to fea. As we failed we heard a noife, nqt M-. 884 CAPTAIN COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. unlike pfalm finging. It was now too late to enquire into the caufe; probably the natives were performing fome religious a&s. We thought that the caft point of the harbour was facred to religion, for fome of our peo- ple had attempted to go to this point, and were pre- vented by the natives. They were always jealous of our proceeding into the country beyond- certain limits: tliey might be apprehenfive of an invafion, and that we meant to take their country I'rom theq>. All wc can fay is, that no part of our conduSE jiiftified fuch a con- clufion. We never gave them the leaft moleftation ; tier did we touch any part of their property, not even their wood and water, without having firll obtained their confent. Even the cocoa-nuts hanging over the heads of the workmen, were as fafe as thofe in the middle of the ifland. We caught a large quantity of iifh, and were tolerably well fupplied by the natives with fruit and roots ; and fhould certainly have obtain- ed more refrefhments, had we had any thing on board that fuited their taftc. Our cloth was of no ufe to thofe who go naked, and they had not any knowledge of the utility of iron. Though the people of this ifland, after feeling the effcdts of the European fire arms, were peaceable, they were not in general friendly ; nor were they like the Indians in Society Ifles, fond of iron : they wilned for fome of the tools with which they faw our feamen cut down wood ; but, except an adze or two, they never attempted to flcal any thing. The coopers left their calits during the night unguarded ; nor were they under any apprehenfions about their cloaths^which they fuffered to lie carelefiy here and there while they were at work. Thefe people difcovered none of that difpofition to thievery which it has been faid every In- dian inherits naturally. In their courfe of trade, they totally dili'egarded heads and baubles, and leemed to prefer Rotterdam fifli-hooks, and turtle- fhell, to every thing elfe that was offered them. They would QOt per- mit the failors to have any communication with their wives ; por were they eafily periii^ided to part with their arras CAPTA..: COOK^b SECOND VOYAGE. $8j arms on any account. Tlie produce of the ifland thcf freely parted with, not requiring any tiling in return; but on whatever was beftowed labour in the conftrudlion, they fet a high value. This ifland of Tanna produce?; abundance of plantains, cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, yams, a kind of potatoe, a fniit like a neyith, and bears no affi»^ity to that of Mallicollo ; from whence we conclude, that the natives of thefe iflands are a diftind nation of themfelves. Mallicollo, Apee, &c. were names unknown to them ; they even knew nothing of Jrandwich Ifland, which is much the n^su'er. Thefe people arc rather flender made, and of the middle fize. They have agreeable countenances, good features, and are very adive and nimble, like the other tropical inha- bitants. The females are put to all laborious works; artd the men walk unconcerned by their fide, when they zee loaded with heavy burthens, befides a child at the back. Perhaps the men think, that their carrying their arms, and defending them, is iuflicient. We often faw large parties of women carrying various kinds of articles, and a party of men armed with clubs and fpears to de- fend them, though now and th^n we haye feen a mar^ carry CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. Uj Icarry a burden at the fams time, but not often. Tljc liyomen of Tanna are not very beautiful, yet they aw: jccxtainly handfome enough for the men, who put them |to all kmdi^ of drudgery. Though both men and wo- Imcn are dark coloured, tliey are not black, nor do tliey [bear any refemblance to negroes. They make thcm- Ifelves blacker than they really are, by painting their feces of the colour of black-lead. They ufe alio a hrt lofpigment which is red, and a third fort brown, all thei^, leipecially the firft, they lay on with a liberal hand, n^t lonly on the face, but on the neck, (boulders, and breaA. iThc women wear a petticoat made of leaves, and the Imen nothing but a belt and wrapper. Bracelets, car- tings, and amulets, are indifcriminately worn by both fexes. The amulets are made of the green flone cf Zealand ; the bracelets of fea-fliells or cocoa-nut; and the necklaces, chiefly worn by the women, moftiy of fea- ftiells. The valuable ear-rings are made of tortoif'e-ilie'il. Some of our people having got fome at the Friendly Iflands, brought it to a good market here, where it was uore efteemed than any thing we offered to falc Hence we concluded thefe people caught but few turtle, though one was feen j uft as we got under fail. 1 o wards the time of our departure, the natives began to enquire after hatchets and large nails ; from which we conclud- ed, that they had found iron to be of more vilue and ufe than ftone, fhells, or bones, of which their tools arc made. Their ftone hatchets are not (haped like anadzc, as in the other iflands, but more like an axe ; and in the helve, which is pretty thick, is made a hole, into wljich |the ftone is fixed. If we except the cultivation of the ground, thefe peo- I pie have few arts worth mentioning. Ihey make a coarfe kind of matting, and cloth of the bark of a tree, ufed chiefly for belts. The workmanftiip of their canoes is very clumfy ; and their arms come far fhort of other*' we had leen. Their weapons are bows, arrows, flones, clubs, fpears, and darts. On the laft tfiey place mofl |4ependeiice, and thefe are pointed with three bearded edges.. S83 CAPTAIN COOIC's SECOND VOYAGE tJges. In throwing them, tliey make ufe of a becket, that is a piece cf fliiF plaited cord about fix inches loop, with ail eye at one end, and a knot at the other. The eye is fixed on ihe fore finger of the right-hand, and the other end isliitched round th.e dart, where it is near- ly on an eqnipoife. They hold the dart between the thuin!) and remaininf; hngers, which ferve only to give k dire(flion, the velocity being communicated by the becket and fore linger, 7 he former flies off from the dart the indant i:s velocity becomes greater than that of the hand, but it remains on the finger ready to be ufed again. They kill both birds and liih vvith darts^ and are pretty certain of hitting the mark, within the compafs of a crown of a hatj'uppofe the object to be diftant eight or ten yards ; but if twice that diftance, it is chance if ihey hit a mark the fize of a man's body, though they wilt throw the weapon 60 or 70 yards ; for they alway<> throw with all their might, let the diftance be what it may. Their arrows are made of reeds pointed with hard wood. Some are bearded ; fome not ; and thofc for Ihooting birds have two, three, and four points. The Hones m general, are branches of coral rocks, from eight to fourteen inches long, and from an inch to an inch and a half diameter. Thefe are generally kept in their belts. Every one carries a club, and belides that, cither darts, or a bow and arrows, but never both. One of our gentlemen on board, makes the following remark on the arms of thefe people, which we fhall here infert in his own words. " I mnft confefs, I have often been led to think the feats which Homer reprefents his heroes as performing with their fpears, a little too much of the marvellous to be admitted into an heroic poem ; I mean when confined within the ftrait ftays of Ariftotle. Nay, even fo great an advocate for him as Mr Pope, acknow- ledges them to be furprizing. But fmce I have feen what thefe people can do with their wooden fpears, and thofe badly pointed and not of a very hard nature, I bave not the leaft exception to any one paflage in that great poet on this account. But if I fee fewer excep- tions, CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 859 tions, I can find infinitely more beauties in him ; as ho his, I think fcarccly an action, circumflance, ordefcrip- tion of any kind whatever, relating to a fpear, ^vhich I have not fecn and recognifed among thefc people ; as the whirling motion, and whifrling noiie, as the f|>eaTS ily ; their quivering motion as they ftick in the ground ; the warriors meditating their aim, when they are going to throw ; and their fhaking them in their hanJ, or brandifliing them, as they advance tq the attack, &icJ** As to tlie religion and government of thefc people, we are little acquainted with the laf^, and to the lirlt are utter flrangers. Chiefs they feem to have among them ; at lead fome were announced to us as fuch, Lut they appeared to have very little authority over the rtH: of the people. Old Geogy was the only one to whom we faw a particular refpedl paid ; but whether this was owing to his rank or age, we cannot fay. On many occafions we have ften the old men refpc4 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. fill of this being the bay of St Philip and St Tag^> beJ caiife no place anfwered to the port of Vera Cruz ; biit] the Captain gave very good reafons for a contrary! opinion. A port is a very vague term, Hke many others] in geography ; and what Quiros calls the port of Vera Ciiuz, might be the whole haven or harbour, or the an- chorage at the head of the bay, which in fpme places I may extend farther off than where our boats landed. The river was probably one of thofe mentioned hy Qiiiros, and if we were not deceived, we faw the other. The bay is every where free from danger, and of an unfathomable depth, except near the fliores, which are for the moft part low. It hath f'.xty miles fea coaft; eighteen on the eafl: fide, which lies in the diredion of S. i W. and N. f E. fix at the head ; and thirty- iix on the weft fide, the diredion of which is S. by E. and N. by W. from the head down to two-thirds of its length, and then N. W. by N. to the N. W. point. The two points which form the entrance of the bay, are in the direction of S. 53 d. E. and N. 53 d. W. diftant from each other thirty miles. The bay, as well as the flat land at the head of it, is boundeci by a ridge of hills : one to the weft is very high, and extends the whole length of the idand. Upon this appeared a luxuriant vegetation wherever the eye turned. Rich plantations adorned the fides of the hills, forefts reared their tower- ed heads ; and every valley was watered with a running ftr jam ; but of al! the productions of nature the cocoa- nut trees were the moft coni'picuouct. Capt.Cook named the eaft point of the bay Cape .Quiros, in memory of its firft difcovercr. It is in latitude 14 d. 56 m. 8. and in 167 d. 13 m. E. longitude. The N. W. point he named Cape Cumberland, ir^ honour of his royal highnelsthe duke. This lies in latitude of 14 d. 38 m« 45 f. S. and in longitude 166 d. 49 m. 30 1. E. itis the N. W. extremity of the Archipelago. On the a 8th, and 2Qth, we took every opportunity, when the horizon was clear, to look out for more land, but none wasfeen ; it is probable that there is none nearer than Queen Qiar^ Charlotte] p league Captain tl ICruz. C rith a fre OaW( )oint of ' iy, is lo\ land as Ifome fmal Itend behii plored thl Imads it nl jlome timj misht di< khlch lafl Ito recruit] fouthern.i hacked, at jatS. E. Tierra del' Iconlinent, Cape Lift] 1165 d. 5c Ifiug to 01 I curate vit CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. «o; ^harlotte's Ifland difcovered by Capt Carteret, ahoiit )0 leagues N. N. W. from Cape Cumberland, and the Captain thoupjht this to be the lame with Quiros's Santa |Cruz. On Tuefday the 30th, we plycd up the coaft ii\h a freOi breeze. On Wednefday the -^ift, we weathered the S. W. point of the ifland. The coaft which trends K. norther- ly, is low, and deemed to form fome creeks or coves ; land as we got farther into the pafl'age, w^c perceived Ifome fmall low ifles lying along it, which feemed to cx- Itend behind St Bartholomew Ifland. Having now ex- plored the whole Archipelago, the feafon or the year made it neceflary to return to the fouth; but we had yet feme time left to make obfervations on any land we might difcover between this and New. Zealand ; at which lafl: place the Cajitain intended to touch, in order to recruit our (lock or wood and water for another foutherncourfe. To this end, at five o'clock P. M. we tacked, atid hauled to the fouthward, with a frelh gale at S. E. At this time the S. W. point of the ifland Tierra del Efpiritu Santo, the only lemains of Quiros's continent, bore north 82 d.W. which Capt. Cook named Cape Lifburne. It lies in latitude 1 5 a. 40 m. and in 165 d. 59 m. E. longitude. It may perhaps he plea- fing to our readers to give a fummary and more ac- curate view of the ifl^nds in this Archipelago, as the foregoing account being given journal- wife, may not be thought perfpicuous, or plain enough, either as to fiiu- lation or defcription. The iflands which compofe this Archipelago are not lealily numbered. We counted upwards of feventy in light at one time ; and they feem to be inhabited by people of very different natures and complexions. •Some we faw were woolly headed, and of the African race ; others were of a copper colour, not unlike the New Zealanders ; fome were of the mulatto colour, and not a few like the natives of Rotterdam, of a brownifh black, with long hair and fliorn beards. The high no- tions, however, that were entertained of the vaft riches of to6 CAPTAIN COOK^s SECOND VOYAGE. of thefe iflands, of their abonnding in pearls, filver crj f-nd precious flones, do not leem well founded ; neitlie) does the ifland of Manicola ?.nfwcr by any means, tin pompous defcription given of it by theSpanifh writenj who found their report on the relation of an Indian cbi(if, anO on tiiat of a captive, whom Quiros feizejJ and can led to Mexico. From ihe former Quiros IcarnJ cd, thrt to the N.W. of this country (Taumaco) theri^ vrers more than lixty iflands, and a large country, \vhic!i he called Manicola ; that, to explain which were fmallJ he made circU's, and pointed to the fca with his iingcr] and made fijr^js tiiat it furrounded the land ; and for thej larger, he made greater circles, and the fame figns ; anJ for that large country he opened both his arms, without| joining them again, thereby intimating^ that it extend- ed without end ; and by figns he Ihewed which peo-l p!c Tvere whites, negrr.cs, Indians, and mulattoes, andj which were mixed ; that in fome iHands they eat hu- man flefli ; and for this he made ligns by biting Iiisl arm, Ihewing clearly thereby his abhorrence of iiichl people. He alfo gave them to underftand, that in the great country, there were cows or buffaloes. From the <:aptive Quiros learnt, that in fome of thefe iflands, therel were pearls as large as fmall pebbles ; that the pearlsl were white and (hining ; and that when they looked at them againft the fun, the fhining luftre dazzled their eyes ; that, at five days of their lailing from a countryf which he named, lay that great country Manicola, in- habited by many people, dun-coloured, and mulattoes, who lived in large towns : that the country was hig'il and mountainous, with many large rivers ; that he, with many others had gone to it in one of their embarkation?, in qutft of the trunk of a great tree, of the many that are in it, to make a pariagua ; and that he faw there a port larger, and the entrance narrower, than that of St Philip and St Jago, and that the bottom was fand, and the fhore fhingle'> he added, that the inhabitants had warlike inflruments pointed with lilver. This capdvc, alter he had learm the Spanifli tongue, confirmed what k CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 8:^7 he had faid of the Great Country, and what tlie chief had faid of the many iflands, and of the different nations with which they were peopled ; fome lufty, having their bodies pundured ; others not fo, of various colours, long hair, red, black, curled and woolly. And being fhewn fome flones impregnated with lilver, he faid, in the great country he had feen fuch kind of Hones, and likewife at Tuamaco, where the natives ufed fome to punctuate themfelves, and others for ornament. From thefe intimations, feveral navigators have inferred that if Quires had flood to the fouthward, that coiirfe would have undoubtedly difcovered to him the great Southern Continent, or as Qniros emphatically exprelles it, " the Mother of fo many 1 Hands." Yet after all, iiiis Voyage has fhewn all thefe queflionlefs affirmations, and probable conjedlures, to be no other than mere affumptions founded on a falfe liypothefis. The courfe which Tafman purfued in 1722, joined to that of Capt. Cook's, has demonflrated the non>exiflence of a South- ern Continent, in the diredion in which Mr Dalrymple fo pofitively afferts Quiros might have found it : and indeed every other diredion from the line to 50 d. of fbuthern latitude, between which he has given it a place. - The iflands of this Archipelago towards the north, were firfl difcovered by that able navigator Quiros, a Spanifh captain, in .1 606, and were confidered as part of ot the Southern Continent, which, at that time, was fuppofed to exift. They were next vifited (for the French are very ready to reap the fruits of other peo- ples' labours) by M. dc Bougainville in 1768, who, ex- cept landing on the ifle of Lepers, difcovered no more than that the land was not conneded, but compofed of iflands which he called the Great Cyclades. But Capt. Cook, left no room for conjedure, relpeding the great objeds he had in view; for befldcs afcertaining the extent and fituation of ihefc iflands, lie has added to them feveral new ones; and having explored the whole with mathematic:il precifion, v.e think he had a Vol. I.-~N° 23. ? X ngHt :.iSfi mmmm vr 898 CAPTAIN GOOK'b SECOND VOYAGE. tight td name them, as he did, the New Hiehrtdcs ; by which name we (hall in the remaining parts of our nar- YS^^v^ diflingui(h rliem. Their fituation is betWeen the Lititudc of i4d. 29 m. and 20 d. 4 m. S. and between 166 d. 41 m. and 1 70 d. 2 1 m. E. lon^itude^ esctending 1 35 leagues, or 'jy^ miles, in the direiftion of N. N. \V. I W. and S. S. fe. \ E. We ihall delcribe them for the fake of per fpicUity in the following numerical order. 1. The l^eak of the Etoite, as it was named by M. de Bougainville. This is the moll northern ifle, and, ac- cording to his reckoningjies N. by W. eight leagues from Aurora, itl laii'tucfe lij. d. 29 m. longitude 168 d. 9 m. 2, Tierradel Efpiritu Santo, which lies fartheft north, artd was difcoVered by Quiros in 1606. This is the mod weftern and largeft of all the Hebridcii. It lies in the dlre«Sticyn of N. N. W. { W, and S. S. E. I E. and is 66 miles long, 36 broad, and 1 80 in circumference. The land is exceeding high and mountainous ; and the hills in many parrs rife diredly from the fea.. Every place except the cliffs, is beautifully aidorned with woods and regular plantations. The bay of St Philip and St Jago, idrms an excellent harbour, and we doubt not of there being good bays along the ibuth and call coafts of other imaller iflands. 1. Mallicdllo is the next confiderable ifiand,extending N. VV. and S, E. In this diredion it is 54 miles long. Its greateft bfeadth is at the S. t. which is 24 miles. The N. W. end is 16 miles broad; arid nearer the middle one third of that breadth. Tbefe unequal meafureihents, particularly near the centre, are caufed by a wide and pretty deep bay, on the S. \V. fide. If we ihay form a judgment of the whole of this ifland frorn what we faw of it, we muft cdnclude it is very fertile ar 1 populous. The hills are in the centre of the ifland, from which the land dcftehds, with an eafy flope to the fe^-coaft, where it is rather low, 4. St Bartholomew, fituated between the S. E. end of Tierradel Efniritu Santo^ and the north end of Mallicollo; the diftaticc between which latter ifland and St Bartho- lomew ■^-i^l . ! 'captain cook's second voyage. 899 lomew is eight miles. Tiie middle of it is in latitude 15 d. 4 m. Iktween this illand and that of MallicoIIo, is the pafTage through which M. de Bougainville went j whofc dcfcriptions have very little pretenfions to acf- curacy. ' ^ 5. The Ifle of Lepers is fituated between Efpiritu S:\ntp and Aurora, being diftant from the former eight leagues, and from the latter three. It lie^ nearly under the fame meridian as the S. li. end of MallicoIIo, ia latitude 15 d. 22 m. Its figure approaches ncareft to an oval ; and it is near fixty n^lles in circumference. We determined its bounds by feveral bearings ; but the lines of the Ihore were trs^ced out by infpei^ion, except the N. E. part, where there is an anchorage half a mi|p from the land. We mutt here obferve, that, /\urora, Whitfuntide, Ambry m, Paoom,and its neighbours Apee, Three-hills, and Sandwich Iflands, lie all under the rani9 meridian of 167 d. 29 m. JL extending from the lati- tude of 14 d, ^i ra. 30 f. to 17 d. 5-; m. 30 f. 6. Aurora Iflaiid lies N. by W. and S. by E. in which diredion is 33 miles ill length; but in breadth, wc think. It fparceiy exceeds feyen miles, except where tlie natives have their plantations ; its furface is hilly, and every where covered with wood. 7. Whitfuntide Ifland, one league and a h^\f to the fouth of Aurora, of \vhich it is the fame- Jjsiigth, but fomewliat broader; and lies in the direction of norlh and fouth. Except fuch parts that fecmed to be culti- vated, and which are pretty numerous, it appeared con- fijerabiy high, and covered with wood. 8. Ambrym, from the north fide to the fouth end of Whitfuntide Jiland, is tvvo leagues and a half In cir- cumference this ifland is about 17 leagues. The (h ore is rather low, and the land rifes with an unequal afcenjt to a high mountain. We judged it to be well inhabited, from the quantity of fn^olce which we perceived to aicend out of the wQpds, in fuch parts of the ifland as pilTed under our Qbfervati.on j jfor the whole of it wc didaotfee. 5X2 9. Paoom^ 930 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. p. Paoom ; of this and its neighbourhood we faw but W^^ ®I, little, and therefore can only fay of this ifland, that it IS- ^' ^- foars up to a great height in the form of a hay-cock. The extent of this and the adjoining ifle (if they are two) do not exceed three or four leagues, in any direc- tion ; for the diftance between Ambrym and Apee is fcarcely five leagues, and they are fituated in this fpace, and eaft from Port Sandwich, diftant about eight leagues. iQ. Apee. The direction of this ifland is about twenty-four miles N.W. and S. E. and it is not lefs than fixty miles in circumference. It has a hilly furface, rifme to a confiderable height, and is diverlified with woods and lawns : we fpeak here only of the weft and foutb parts, for the others we did not fee. 1 1. Shepherd's Ifles, which are a clufter of fmall ones, of different dimenfions, in the direction of S. E. and extending off from the S. E, point of Apee, about five leagues. 12. Three-hills. This ifland lies four leagues fouth from the coafl of Apee, and is diftant 1 7 leagues, S. E. f S. from Port Sandwich. A reef of rocks, on which the fea continually beats, lies W. by N. five miles froin the weft point. 13. Sandwich Ifland is fituated nine leagues, in the diredion of fouth from Three-hills, To the eafl an(l| wefl of which line are, 14. Two-hills Ifland, 15. The Monument. JO. Moqtague Iflands, 1 7. Hinchinbrook. 1 8. Two or three fmall iflcs, lying between Hinchiii: brook and Sandwich Ifland, to which they are conned- cd by breakers. Sandwich Ifland is feventy-five miiesj in circumference, and its greateft extent is thirty miles/ It lies in the diredion of N. W. by W. and S. E. by E.| We viewed the N. W. coaft of this ifland only at a dilj t^nce. From the fouth end of MallicoUo, to the N.W.f 19. E fituated I about fe^ die of it 19 m. E faw it, it 20. T the fouti N.W.by dircdioE broad, 21. A lies in lai twelve 1( Its furfac cannot fa 22. Ir E. four 1( 23. E redion, eaftern than five the top the ifle, land, lie fcription which o but, as of lefTer and thei Toth fhall am nomer, thefe ifli t'That and ten CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 901 lend of Sandwich Ifle, the diftance, m the diredion of |S. S. E. 18 twenty-two leagues. 1 9. Erramango lies in the fame dire6lion ; and is Ifituated eighteen leagues from Sandwich Ifland. It is about feventy-tive miles in circumference. The mid- dle of it is in latitude 18 d. 54 m. lonp* ude 169 d. ! 19 m. E. From the diftance we were off when we nrft ! faw it, it appeared of a good height. 20. Tanna. This ifland is fituated fix leagues from the fouth fide of Erramango, extending S. E. by S. and N.W. by N. It is about twenty-four miles long in that (liredion, and every where about nine or twelve miles broad, 2 1 . Annatom. This is the fouthermoft ifland, and lies in latitude 20 d. 3 m. longitude 170 d. 4 m. and twelve leagues from Port Relolution, fouth 30 d. E. Its furface is hiUy, and of a tolerable heigjit j morewc cannot fay of it. 22. Immer, which is in the diredlion of N. by E. f E. four leagues from Port Refolution in Tanna ; and, 23. Errdnan, or Footoona, eaft, lies in the fame di- reftion, diftant eleven leagues. This ifland is the moil eaftern of all the Hebrides, and appeared to be more than five leagues in circumference. It is high, and on the top flat. A fmall peak, feemingly disjoined from the ifle, though we thought it was conneded by low land, lies on the N. E. fide. This is an accurate de- fcription of the principal iflands in the Archipelago, to which our commander gave the name of the Hebrides ; but, as we have before obfcrved, there are many others of leflTer note, of which we had only a tranfient view, and therefore cannot pretend to defcribe. To this account, in order to render it complete, wc fhall annex the lunar obfervations, made by our aftro- nomer, Mr Wales, for afcertaining the longitude of thefe iflands, concerning which Captain Cook obferves, " That each fet of obfervations connfting of between fix ^ind tea obfcrved diftances of the fun and moon, or mooi^ fei CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. moon and ftars, the whole number jimoupts tp fpverall hundreds ; and thefe, by means of the watch, have bcenl reduced to all the iflands ; fo that the longitude of cachl is as well determined as that of the twp ports undermenJ tioned, namely, Sandwich and Reiolution. To prove this we need only obferve, that the longitude of the two| ports, as pointed out by the watch j^ndby the obferya- tions, did not differ two miles. This mews likewileJ what degree of accuracy thefe pbfervations are capable ©f, when multiplied to a confiderabje number, madj' witli different inftruments, and with the fun and ftars, or both iides of the moon. By tjiis laft method, the errors which may be either in the inftruments or lunar tables, deftroy each other, as alfo thofe that may arife from the obferycr himffslf ; for fomP are naore critical, and clofer obfervers than others. If we consider the number of obCcrvations that m^y be obtained in the coiirfe of a month, (fuppofing the weather to bje favour- abic) we fhall perhaps' iind this method of ^fqertaining the longiv .de of places as accurate as moft others ; at kaft it is the moft eafy, and attended with the Icaft ex- pence. Every fhip bound to foreign parts is, or may oe, fupplied upon eafy terms, with A fufiicient number of good quadrants, proper for m^^cing the fol^r or lunar obSryations ; and the difference of the price between a good and bad quadrant, can never be an pbjedt with an officer. The moft expenfiye article, apd .Y^hat is in fome meafure neceffary, m order to ar^riye at the ^tmoft accuracy, is a good w^t^^i.; but for common life, and where that ftrid accuracy is not required, this may be difpenfed with ; and it is to be pbferved, that the ordinary way of -finding the longitude by a qua- drant, is not fo difficult, but that any man, with proper application, and a little pra(Siice,.mayfoon learn to make obiervation^s as well as the aftronpmers. Indeed, not any material difference has feldom occurred, between 4he obfervations made by Mr Wales, artd thofe made -by the officers ^t the fame time. CAPTAii^ COOR'8 SECOND VOTAGB. .905 Lunar Obfcruatiom made by Mr WA LES^ For afcertaining the longitude of the Hebrides, rc- Iduced by the ^atch to Port oandwicli in Mallicollo, and Port Rclolution in Tanna. i. PORT S A N D W I G a «. tn, J, Meanof 10 fets of obfcrv. before 167 ^6 7^t,\ 1 ditto, at 168 2 37 J • 20 ditto, 167 52 '57 iMeanbf thefe mieans 167 57 22 i E. Long. II. PORT RESOLUTION. d. t17. f. iMeanof 2ofct8ofobferv.'before 160 37 25 5 ditto, at 20 ditto, after I Mean of thefe 'means 169 48 48 169 47 22 j 169 44 2s Ntm ^4 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. New Caledonia difcovercd-^lncidenis-^The Country defcrM — An Account of the Cujlorm^ Manners^ and Arts oftk Naiives^Obfervaiions on the Coqft and fome low IJJandl — Remarkable Incidents while exploring thefe, — The Rejl lution is obliged to depart from New Caledonia— This^ J Captain Coolis Opinion, is the largeji IJIand in the Soui\ Pacific Ocean, except New Zealand'-^Remarks upon it- Continues her Voyage to New Zealand — Obfervatiom rt[ fpcBing the Difcovery of l^orfolk I/land — She arrives ^een Chailottcs Sound — An Account of Incidents whii the Ship lay there. ON September the ift, being Thurfday, we wed out of fight of land, and no more was to be feenj We continued our courfe to the S. W. and on the jdJ at five o'clock, found ourfelves in 19 d. 49 m. andiJ 165 d. E. longitude. On the 4th, at eight o'clodj A. M. we difcovercd land, which, at noon, extendef from S. S. E. to W. by S. diftant fix leagues. At fiv( P. M. we were fix leagues off, when we were ftoppeJ by a calm. At this time the land extended from S. Ej by S. to W. by N. round by the S.W. but as fom openings were feen in the W. we could not determiiij whether it was one connected land, or a clufter oj Iflands. The coaft to the S. E. feemed to terminated the S. E. in a high promontory, which was named Capd Colnet, after one of our midfhipmen, who firft difcoj vered this land. We faw twb or three canoes undej fail, and we thought they had come off to us, but thej ftruck their fails a little before fun fet, an^ we faw thep xxo more. On parts ; imagini pretty r our boa that wl) low iani which, Balubea, we ftooc of the h and that gave the him wit hauled ii the fhor cceded u anchorec mixed w wind aqi S. diftan ofthe m bore N. came noi natives fi in 16 or and we p to receive lo the re being thi Vol. I.- CAPTAIN COOK'6 SECOND VOYAGE. 905 Oii the 5th, \vc cSferved the coaft extended to the S. E. of Cupe Coiner, and round hy the S. W. to N. W. by \V. Wc hore down to N. W. and came btfore aa opening, that had tlie appearance of a good channel. We deiired to enter it, in onier to liavc an opportunily of ohfervinpj an eclipfe of the fun, which was focn to happen. We therefore fent out two armed boats to ibuad the channel; and at the fame time we iaw 12 lar}];e failing canoes near us. All the morning wc ha^l obferved them in motion, and cominpj ofifrom dillerent parts; hut fome were lying on the reef filhing as we imagined. When we hoifled out our boats they were pretty near us ; but upon ieein{» this, tliey returned, and our boats followed them. We now were convinced, that what we had taken for openinj^s in the coall was low land, all conncdted, except the weiicrn extremity, which, as we afterwards learut, was an illand, called Balubea. The boats having made a fignal for a channel, we ftood in with the fhip. The commanding officer of the boats reported, that there was good anchorage, and that the natives were very civil and obliging. Ke. gave them fome medals, and in return, they prcfentcd him with fome fifh. Having got within the reef^ we hauled up S. f E. for a fmall low fandy ifhe, Ijing under the fhore, being followed by all the canoes. We pro- ceeded up the bay more than two miles, and at length anchored in five fathoms water, the bottom a fine fancl mixed with mud, and we were well (heltered from the wind ai>d fea. At this time the low fandy ifle bore E. by S. diftant three quarters of a mile, and from the (hore of the main we were one mile. The ifland of Balabea bore N. W. by N. and the channel through which we came north, diftant four miles. A great number of the natives furrounded us before we had well got to anchor, in 16 or eighteen canoes, without any fort of weapons, and we prevailed upon one boat to come near enough to receive fome prefents. In return, they tied two Hfh to the rope, that ftunk intolerably. An i«tercourfe being thus opened by mutual exchanges, tv;o of the qM Vol,!.— N? 23. JY natives ^o6 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. natives ventured on board the (hip, and prefently afrc fhe was tilled with them. Some dined with us, but they would not eat our lalt beef.> pork, or peafe ioup : we happened to have lomeyams left, which they were very fond of. Thefe they called Oobee, a name not inilikc Oofee, by which they are called at moft of the iilands, except Mallicolio; neverthelefs we found thefe people ipoke a language to which We were entire llrangers. They were quite naked, except the belt and \vrapper, which they ufed as the inhabitants of the other iflands. They had no knowledge of our dogs, cats, and goats, &c. not having even a name for them ; but they flaewed a remarkable attachment to pieces of red. cloth and fpike nails. After dinner time, a party of us went afhore with two arr^ied boats, and landed amidft a great number of jjeople, who were induced by curiofity alone to fee us, for they had not fo much as a ftick in their hands, and received us with great courtcfy, They exprefled a natural furprize at feeing men and things fo ne\V to them as we were. Prefects were made to fuch, as a man, who had attached himfelf to Captain Cook, pointed out ; but he would not fuffer the Captain to give tlie women, who itood behitid, any beads o: medals. We faw a chief whofe name was Teabooma, who called for lilence foon after we landed. Every perfon inftantly obeyed him, and liftened with extraor- dinary attention. When he had finiOied his harangue, 'another fj)oke, who was no lefs rcfpedlfully attendcjd to. Their fpeeclies were compofed of fliort fentences. We thought ouridves to be the fubje£l of them, though we could not underftand them. Having by ligns enquired lor fre/h water, fomc pointed to the eaft, others to the wed ; but out* friend undertook to condudt us to it, and for that purpofe embarked with us. 1 lie ground we palled was beautifully cultivated, laid out in i'everal plan- tations, and well watered. We rowed near two miles to the eaif , where we obferved the fhore to be moftly covered with mangroves. We entered among thele by a narrow creek or river, v/hich brought u,« to a little flraggling village wher^ we were fliewn frcfli water. CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 907 Near this fpot the land was richly adorned with plnr.ra- tions of fugar-canes, yams, &c. and waiered with little rills, conducted hy art Irom the main fpiingr., v.'hnle fource was in the hills. We faw feveral cocoa-nut trees which had not much fruit on them, and heard the >t<»w- ing of cocks, but faw none. Some roots were hakinf; pa a lire, in an earthen jar, which would hold iix j^al- lons, and we did not dciihr, but that tlils, was of trt^ir own manufadure. Mr Forftcr (hot a duck as it jRew over our heads, and explained to the Captain's fiicrid how it was killed. He defired to have the duck, and informed his cnnntrymen in what manner it was thot. The tide not permitting us to itay longer in the creek, we took leave of thefe amicable people, from whom we liad nothing to exped: but good nature, and the pri- vilege of viliting their country wirlicut molellation, as it was eafy to fee thefe were all they could bellow. Though this did not fatisfy our demands, it gave us nuich eafe and fatisfadticn, for they certainly (';'clock, died Simon Monk, our butcher. His death was occafioned by a frill down the fore hatchway, the preceding night. We could not hu'i lauient the lofs of fo ufeml a hand, el- pecially as he was well refpetSled and much efteemed on board the flup. On Wednefday the 7th, we made a party to take.a view of the country. When we had landed, two ot the natives undertook to be our giiides. We afcended the hills by a pretty good path ; and in the way met feveral people, who accompanied us, fo that in a Ihort time our train' became numerous. From the iummU of one of the hil's we faw the fea in two places, wherebv ive could determine the breadth of this country, wMcli does not exceed thirty miles. A large vallc/ lay be- tween the ridge we were upon, and the advanced hills through wh'tch glided a fci*pentine river, and on the fides of the hills were feveral draggling villages. '1 li*^ CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. jrc^ valley appeared ratber romantic, by the villages, inter- rperfcd with woodB, winding ftreanixS, and beauiiful plantations, which much improved the fcenc. The other parts of the ifland were molUy rocky and barren. The lirtlt foil that is upon the mountains and Ii'4^h places is burnt up by the fun ; yet it is coated with coarfe grafs and plants, and here and there trees and fhrubs. Thcue is a great fimilitude between thir. coun- try and New Holland, under the farr-c parallel of lati- tude, obvious to every one who had f^cn both place?. V/e returned by a different road to that wc came by, and paffcd through fome of the ])hmtat5ons in the plain?, which were laid out with great judf::ment, and appe;ired to be well cultivated. All the nation:; in theft; i'ea^ re- cruit their land by letting it lay in fallow, but they fec:ji not to have any idea of manurin*.:; it, except by letting fire to the grafs with which it is ever- run. I laving lirulhed our excurfion by noon, we returned on board to dinner, with one of our guides wath us, w liofe atten- tion and fidelity were rewarded at a very trilling ex- |HMJcc. hi tlie aiternoon, the Captain's clerk, being aihore, purchafed a fifh which one of the natives had ftruck. It had a large, long, ugly head, and bore fome refemblance to the fun fifli. It was ordered for (u^yri^r^ as we had no fufpicion of its being poifonous. Provi- dentially, the time the draughtfman took up in portray- ing this fifh, made it too late for us to have it drefled ; but the Captain, and the two MclFrs. Forilers tafted of the liver and row ; and in the middle of the night, they found themfeJves feized vvith a weaknei's and flupor, which affedled their whole frame. The Captain had al- moft loft his fenfe of feeling, not being able to dillin- guiih between light and heavy bodies ; a quart pot and a feather fecmed the fame in his hand. An emetic, and after that a fweat,were taken by thefe gendemen, which proved an efficacious remedy. When they rofe in the morning, they found one of the pigs dead, wdio had eaten the entrails ; and when the nadves came on board, and faw the lifh hang up, they ex; -"Qed their abhor- rence. 9IO CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. rence^ fignifying it was not wliolefome food. It isal little remarkable they did not do this when the fi(h was] to he fold, nor after it was purchafed. On the 8th, in the afternoon, Teabooma, the chief,! brcM'ght a prefent to the Captain, confifting of a fevvl yams, and fugar-canes. In return for which, among other articles, a dog and bitch were fent him, nearly full grown. The dog was red and white, hut the bitch v;ss the colour of an Englifh fox. I'his was done with a| view of ilocking the country with this fpecics of anima It wa?; fome time before Teabooma could believe tlie prefent was inte'nded for him ; but w^hen he was con- •vinced of this, lie fent them immediately away, and feemed loft in excefs of joy. On the oth, Lieutenant Pickerfgill and Mr Gilbert w^ere difpatchcd in the laurich and cutter to explore the coafl to the well, which could not be fo well effeded by the fhip, on account of the Teef&, A party of men was alio fent athore to cut brooms ; but Captain Cook and Meilrs Forfter were confined aboard, though much better. On the I oth, Mr Forfter was fo well recovered as to go into the country in fearch of plants. On Sunday, the I ith, in the evening, the boats returned, and we were informed by the commanding officers, that hav- ing reached an elevation the morning they had fet out, they had from thence a view of the coaft ; and both Mr Gilbert and Mr Pickerfgill were of opinion, that there vi'as no pail'age for the fhip to the weft. From ?his place, accompanied by two of the natives, they went to Balabea. They were received by Teabi, the chief of the ifland, and the people who came in great numbers to fee them, with ftrong intimations cf fricnd- ihip. Our people, that they might not be crowded, drew a line between them and the natives, who under-^ flood and complied with the reftridion. One of thefe had a few cocoa-nuts w-hich a failor wo>i'd have bought, but the man being unwilling to part with them, walked off, and, being followed by the failor, he fat down on the fand, made a circle r^und him, as he had fecn our people CAPTAIN COOK'S SKCOKD VOYAGE. 91J people do, and iignified that the ether was not to come within it, and the injundioti was (Iridly ohfervcd. This excuriioii to Balahc.i was rather a iruitlclH om: ; for they did not reach the iJlc till near funfet, and Ktt it agal.i before fun- rife, the next morning; and the two following days were fpent in getting up to the fhip. in going down to the ifle, they law a greaf n-.i. ;her of tur- |tles, but could not llrike any, the wind and lea hdn^ radier tempeftuous. The cutter iprung a leak, and fuddenly hlled with water, fo that they were obliged to thro XV fcveral things over board, to prc^vent her being loft, and by lightening her, to ftop the leak. Froin a fifliing canoe they met, they got as 'liuch filh as they could eai. On Monday the 1 2th, early in Ji;.; morning, the car- periter was ordered to repair the cutter.- The Cnptain being defirous of ftocliing this country with hogi»le ciciul prm\, iinvl ii\ in\cll» ti line ari>in:\tic. They iomui alio a Iptvics olihc pallion (lower, wliich, wciue inliuaud, luu» never before been known to grow wilil ikwy where b\»t in Auierieu. Oftbc bnil birils, wbieb t\re very nan\ero\h, wc iliw feveral t(» n» \u\known, as a kiiul oF turtle ib)vc», very hcautitui, n>any In^all biriln, anil t>ne reten\hlin(:f u cn)w, tbotJ},';b n\neb hnallcr, aitil iiH featbcrn are liny;oil with l)hje. We enileavoureil, bnt in vain» io obtain the name i>t the whole illanJ J but we Rot the n.uneH of i'evenij iHllridn, with tliole of their ehiefH. I^alade was the luune of the diltriCl we were at, aiul Tea Ho(^n\a the chief. 1 Va is a title prelixeil to the nainen of all, or jnoU (4' their j»reat men. The ( <.iptain*s fricnil, by way i>f tlillinClion, called him Tea ('ook. '('heir canoes arti very ehnnfy,thotij;h fomewhat like thole of the Viieiuj- ly liles. Moll of them are double eanoes. They arc navip;ated by oite or two latteei^ iitils. The fail is ntadc of picecs of matting; the r<>[>es of the eimrfe liluineuti of the jc^laiUain tree, 'I'hey iatl well, Imt are not c:tKiN Ittted tor rowing or puddling. They are about tlijriy feet long, at\d the deck or platform, about twcnty-toiir iti lengtb, and ten in breadth. In our trallic with thclo people, fmjdl nails were ot little value, nor diti theyad- jnire beads, looking-glallcs, ^c. and even a hatchet was I not fo valuable as a fpike n^il. Their women here as M'cll as at Taima, are very challe, atu! we never licanl that one of our people ever obtained the leall favour | irom any one of them. Indeed their ladicrt wouKI Ibnic- times divert ihemfelvcs by going a little aftde with our I gentlemen, aa if they meant to be kind, and then woulill in a moment nin away laughing at them. Thelo peo- ple dcpolit their dead in the groimd. Some ot <'ui gentlemen iiiw a grave, rcr^nnhfii\g one of the Roiiy " tutnuli, it\ whieh, they were informed lay the rem ^itis! of a chief llain in battle. Roimd his grave i"pear.s, cL ' ttnd paddles, were ihick upright in the ground. OuTucfday tlic i uh of September, at fun-rife, wc| WcigUe^^, ixad Hood for the fame channel v^e came- in by, CAP IAIN COOIC'B SlU'ONn VOYAOK. pi7 by. Al hull \h\i\ li'vni wc wwc in llir lu'ulillc of it, Iwlicii ll»c illo li Jt.iliibctt Imm'c VV. N. W. Ah iooii tu ur were ilcar <>l il»f reel, wc l)<)rr up uUm^ the uiululo of it, llcc^iM^l; N. W. hy W. iih ii tivinlnl. At itooii ihc illuiul of Halahni horc S. hy W. diiiiAiit ahoiil ioiir bi^uni; luitl ttt three o'thuk W M. it horciS. hy I',. ( \L Iroin ihiH phtcc the rcet inclintd to the N. aiul then (o N. W. Atlvjuuiu;,'; to N. VV. we. laileil more latul, lo that Mr (!ilhert vvau inilhtken, luiil did not fry the ex- tivinity ol the et)idl. Al live thin l.md hore \V. hy N. { N. tl'dlunt near leven leii|.^neM, On the I4lh, the rcci" Hill trentlcd N. W. aloMj^ vvhieh we lhere(h with ii ii)/ht luec/e at I'.. S. 1',. Al noon we hid loll hj.',lit ol Hala- Iku, Mitd at three o'eloek, we inn hy a low l.mdy illc, the Ipaee hetween whieh, and the north- wellernioll liiiul WUH llrewed with Jhoaln. At hnul'et, we eoidd but jnll Ice the land, whii h l)(>re S. W. hy S. ahont ten Ica^^ucH dillanl. No land wan leen to the wi-llward ()K lluH tliicdion ; the reel'too trended away W. hy N. and fVonv the ntad head leented to terminate in a point; io that every appearance flattered onr exnedationM, and iiulured m to hclieve, that we Ihould I'oon get round the Ihoals. ( )n the i cth, leeiiif); neither land nor hreak- cr8, wc hore away N. W. hy W. hut lhelhoal;i lUII con- limiiitp;, we [)licd up for a clear lea to the S. K. hy duin^j which, we ditl hut jult weather the point otthe reel' wc had palled the precediiti^ cveninj^. To render otiC iliuation the more dattp;erouN, the witul hef>;an to tail iih ; ill the afternoon it fell a calm ; and we were left to the mercy of'a p;reat Iwcll, lettinp; dire^ <^ sss o^ f 18 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. leagues. From hence the land extended round by the S. to £. S. £. till it v^as loft in the horizon, and the country appeared variegated with many hills and valleys. We flood in fhore till fun-rfet, when we were about three leagues off. Two fmall iflets lay diftant from us five miles, and others lay between us and the fhore. The country was mountainous, and had much the fame afpe^ as about Balade. On the 2ifl, we found our- felves about fix leagues from the coaft. On the 2 2d, we flood in for the land, which at noon extended from N. 78 d. W. to S. 3 1 d. I E. round by the S. The coafl, in this lafl direction, feemed fo trend more to the S. in a lofty promontory, which, in honour of the day, 'was named Cape Coronation, in latitude 22 d. 2 m. and in 167 d. 7 m. 30 f. E. long'tude. On the 23d, at day- break, a high point appeared in fight, beyond the cape, which proved to be the S. £. extremity of the coaft, to which we gave the name of Queen Charlotte's Foreland. It lies in latitude 22 d. 16 m. 8. and in 167 d. 14 m. £, longitude. At noon, as we drew near Cape Coronation, we law in a valley to the fouth a vaft number of elevated obje^s, from whence a great deal of fmoke kept rifing all the day. Capt. Cook was of opinion thefe were a fingular fort of trees, bein^, as he thought, too numerous to refemble any thing elie. Some low land under the Foreland was entirely covered with them. The wind having veered round to the fouth, we tacked, and flood off, not thinking it fafe to approach the fhore in the dark. We flood in again at day-break, on the 24th, and at noonobferved in latitude 21 d. 59 m, 30 f. Cape Coronation bearing wefl, foutherly, diftant feven leagues, and the North Foreland fouth, 32 d. W. At fun-fet we difcovered a low land, lying S. S. E. about feven miles from the Foreland, furrounded with fhoals and breakers.. Sunday the 25th, we ftood to S. S. W. with a view of getting round the Foreland, but as we advanced, we perceived more low illes, beyond the one already men- tioned. We therefore ftood to the fouth, to look for a paffagc pafTaj o'clo( fpenc ftretc ando ho^ej whicl ofth< toS. S. E. CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 919 palTage without thefe. We got a light breeze at feven o'clock, which enabled us to fteer out E. S. E. and to fpend the night with lels anxiety. On the 26th, wc ftretched to the S. E. for an ifiand diftant fix leagues; and on the 27th, we tacked and ftood to S. W. with the hopes of weathering it, but we fell two miles (hort, which obliged us to tack about a mile from the eaft fide of the iiland, the extremes bearing from N. \V. by N. to S. W. the hill W. and fome low ifles, lying off the S. E. point, S. by W. Thefe lad feemed to be connc5 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 925 as rooftlnj; arul hrceding places, for white bonbics, gull.% tern, &;c. A bank ol coral land and Ihclls, rurrounda the ifle, and extends, tipecbily Ibuth-vvarJ, Icvcii leagues off. Our intention at this time was to rcfreili the crew, and repair the ihip, in Queen (^arlotte* Sound. On Monday the 17th, we had in view mount Eg- ' inont, perpetually covered with Ihow, l)earingS. E. \ E. ciilbnt al)out eight leagues. 'J he wind now blew a frcfli pale, with wliich wc liecred S. S. K. for Queen Cliar- lotle*s Sound. Ttie wind at lafl incrcaicd in fuch a manner, that we could carry no more iail than the two courfcs, and two clofc-rcetcd topfails: under llieie we lleereil for Cape Stevens, which wc made at 1 1 o'clock at night. On the i^tli, we made a trip to the north, and bore p.'vay for the I'ound. Wchauh^d round Point Jacklbn, 3t nine A. M. and at 1 1 o'clock anchored before Ship , Ibve, the wind and tide not permitting us to get in. Captain Cook, in tlie afternoon went ailiore, and look- ed for the bottle, w4th the memorandum, which he left when lall here, but it was taken away by fome pcrfon or oilier. The feine was hauled twice and only four filh caught : but fcveral birds were Ihot, and the nclls of lome fhags were robbed of their young ones. On the iQtb, the (liip was warped into the cove, and moored. '1 he fails were unbent, ieveral of them bavin;; been much damaged in the kite gale. The main and lore courles were condenuied, and the top-malts were linid: and luirigged. The forge was let up, and tents I'ledled on thore for the reception of a guard, ike. Plenty of vegetables v«'ere gathered for the refrelhmeiK of the crew, which were boiled every morning v/iili oiitineal and portable broth for breaktdil. From fome circiiinilances, as cutting down trees widi faws and axe?, aiul a place found where an obfcrvatory had been fet up in our ablcnce, we had no doubt but the Adventure had been in this cove iince we left it. Oil ii;e 2^ol[l our men began to cauik the Ihip's fi les, and 026 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. tnd on Saturday the 2 2d, the Captain, accompanied by the lx)tanills, went to vilit our gardens in Mortuara, vrhich wc found had been wholly ncj^lcdled by thofe ot | the natives to whom wc had given them in charge ; nor fiad any care or cultivation been licflowed on thern. Neverthelela, the foil feemed to agree well wirh the plants, for many of them were in a tlourifhing condition. rJot having hitherto lecn any of the natives, we mailc a iire on the land, hoping this would induce them to come iJown to us. On the 24th, we faw two canoes coming down the found, which, when the fliip was i'clack fow was feen by the botanizinoj party, which we difcovered to be the fame that Capt. Furneaux left behind him. Suppofing it to he a boar, wc carried over to Long Ifland a fow^ but feeing our miftake, we brought her back. I'hia incident afforded us fome hopes, that this ifland in time will be ftocked with fuch uleful animals. Lieutenant Pickcrf^ill was told the fame llory by one of the na- tives, of a (hip having been loft, but the man declared, though inany people v/ere killed, it was not bj-- them. On the jth, we obtained a feafonabk and plentiful fup- ply 928 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOTACE. ply of fifli from oiirokl frlenJs. Early in tlie momirif; Capr. Cook, accompanied by Mr S])arrmaii, and llic McilVv'?. Fofters, embarked in tlic pinnace, ar.d proceed, ed \ip ihe found, in order to dil'cover a paffagc tbat vv;iy out to fea by the S. K. We were met by lome fiflicr- men, who ail declared, there was no pafll^ge by the head cf the found ; and foon after four men in a canoe coin curred in the lame opinion, conlirmin;^ what the othvn had faidjbut they gave ustoundr.-ftand, that there v;k inch a paflape to the eaft. We therefore laid alide ou: (irft delign of going to the head of the found, and pRu ceedcd to this arm of the fea, on the S. E. fide, which i; about five leagues above the I He of Mortuara. Witlii:i the entrance, at a place called Kotieghenooec, wecnnjc to a large fetilement of the nadves. Their chief, Triiv go-bohee, and fome of his attendants had lately bee.i en board the fhip, by whom we were received vvitli ga-.r ..civility ; and rhclc people encouraged us to purfue the cbjedl we had in view. We therefore continued our courfc down this arm of the fea, E. N. E. and E. by N. having a view of fcveral fine coves, which we pafl'ed, nr.il at length we found it open, by a channel about a mile wide, into the ft rait. A llrong tide ran out, and we had obfervcd another fetiing down the arm. Near four o'clock P. M. this tideceafed, and was fuccceded by the flood. The outlet lies S.^E. by^ E. and N. W. by W. from Terrawhittce. A little within the entrance, wo found thirteen fathoms water ; but, from its fituation,It feemed neceflary to have a trading wind cither to go in or out of this channel ; but having determined to rcturij on board before night, we had not time to make other neceffary obfervations. We faw a Hippah, or flror.g hold, about two miles within the entrance, built on rhc north fide, which we omitted viliting, though the in- habitants made figns for us to come on fhore ; but, with- out paying any regard to them, we made the heft cf cur way for the (hip, and returned on board about ten o'clock, bringing with us a few fifh and birds j among which CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 929 xvKich laH were fome ducks we had (hot, of the fame kind as thofe in Dufky Bay. Tlie natives knew thefe, and feveral other forts, by the drawings, and had a par- ticular name for each. On Sunday the Cth, our old friends returned, and took up their abode near the tents. An old man, named l*edero, made Capt. Cookaprefeut of a (laiF of honour, luch as the chiefs carry ; and, in return, the Captaia dreffed him up in a fuit of old cloaths, which made him very happy. He had a fine perfon, and his colour only diflinguiOied him from an European. We enquired of him and his companion, if the Adventure had been there during our abfeucc , and they gave us to under- Ihnd, that (he arrived a little time after our departure ; that (he (laid about twenty days, and had been gone ten moons ; and that neither (he, nor any other (hip, had been ilranded on the coaft. This account made us cafy refpcding the Adventure, but did not wholly remove our fuipicions of fome misfortune having happened to grangers. This day we went with a number of hands, in order to catch the fow and put her to boar, hut we return- ed without feeing her. Pedero dined with us, partook heartily of every thing fet before him, and drank more wine than any one at table, without being in the lead intoxicated. On the 8th, we put a boar, a fow, and two pigs afhore, near Cannibfil Cove ; io that we hope alloUr repeated endeavours to (lock this country will not prove fruitlefs. We found a hen's egg a few days ago, and therefore believe, that fome of the cocks and hens we left here are ftill in being. On the 9th, we unmoored, and (hiftedour ftation farther out of the cove, for the more ready getting to fea ; but at prefent, the caulkers had not finilhed the fides of the fliip ; and we could not iail till this work was completed. Our friends brought us a large fupply of fi(h, and, in return, we gave Pedero a large empty bil jar, with which he feemcd highly de- lighted. We never faw any of our prefents after they received them, and cannot fay whether they give them away, or what they did with them j but we obferved. Vol. 1 N? 24. 6 B every ^36 CAfTAIN cook's SECOND VOYAGE* every time we vifited them, they were as much in ^aht of hatchets, nails, &c. as if we had not beftoWed any upon them. Notwithftanding thefe people are cannibals, they are of a good difpofition, and have not a little humanity^ We have before oblerved tlie inconveniences aitend?ng them for a want of union arttoftg thetiifelves ; ahd We arc perfuaded, though upon the whole very numerous, they are under ho fol-m of government. The head of tach tribe, or family, is refpedled ; refpe^l may com- mand obedience ; biit We iire inclined to think, not one among thctn has either a right or powet to enforce it. Very rcw, we obferved, paid any regard to thfc words or adions of Tringo-boliee, though h6 w^i5 teprefented to lis as a chief of Tome note. In the afternoon we Went itato one of the cbves : where, upon landingj yi^e found two femilies emplo^'ed in different ittannef s : foriie Were ttijiking mats, others Were fleeplng ; fom6 Wet-e roafting fifh and roots ; kttd one girl was (employed iti heating ftones, which (he took out of the fire as fpon as Ihey wiere hot, and gavfe them to an old Woman, who fat in the hut. The old woman placed them one upon another, laid over them fome green celery, and ovet all a coarfe mat : fhe then fquattied herfelf down on the top of the heap, and fat very clofe. Probably this operation might be intended as a cure for fome difbrdei*, tb be effedled by llie fteams ariling from thie green celtry, Atid wc per- ceived the woman fcemcd very fickly. Ife f APTAIN COOK»s SECOND VOYAGE. . 93T ' f Tte Departure, of lie Refolution from New Zealand-^Her Pajfage from hence to Terra del Fuego — The Run from Cape Defeada to Chrijimas Sound — The Coajl defcrlbed r^lncfde^inis and Trarifa6lions in the Sound — A Defcrip- tion of the Country, and an hijlorical Account of the In- habitants— ^The Refolution departs from Chrifimas Sound ^ ,'^Doubles Cape Horn — Her Pajfage through Strait Le , Maire, and round Staien JJland — A Harbour in this JJh difcovered — The Coajis defcribed — Geographical Obferva- iions — Remarks on IJIands, and the Animals found in ihem^ . near Staten Land^—Departure from Staten JJland — The JJland of Georgia difcovered^ and a defcriptive Account of the fame. " THURSDAY, Nov. 10, at day-break, we weighed and failed from Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zealand, having a fine breeze at W. N. W. All our fails being fet, we got round the Two Brothers, and llretched lor Cape (^lampbell, at the S. W. entrance of the ftrair. We pafled this at four o'clock P. M. diftant live leagues, and then fteered S. S. E. f E. On the i ith, at feven o'clock P. M. Cape Pallifcr bore N. l W. diftant fixteen leagues, from which cape, for the third time. we took our departure. We now Iteered S. by E. in order to get into the latitude of 54 or 55 d. Captain Cook's intention being to crofs this vaft ocean in thefe parallels, hoping by this courfe to pafs over thofeparts, which, the preceding fummer, were left unexpfored. On the I ?th, A. jVl. we were in latitude 43 d. 1 3 m. 6B 3 2fiU ■/'«!. M: p- .\ p, 93a CAPTAIN COOK'S SECODjID VOYACE. of. S. and in 176 d. 41 m. E. longitude, wl>en we aw an uncommon fifh of the whale Kind ; and, in the afternoon, the Pintado peterels began to appear. On the 1 3th, atfeven in the evening, we hauled up towards a fog Dank, which we took for land ; j^er which we fleered S. £. by S. and faw a feal. At noon, by obfer- vation, we found our latitude to be 44 d. 2< m. S. lon- gitude i77d. 31 m. E. On tjie 14th, we Taw another leal in latitude 45 d. 54 m. and 179 d. 29 m. E; longi- tude. On the i^th, having paffedthe great meridian of 1 80 d. E. which divides the globe into two ecjual parts, we began to reckon our longitude weft of Green- wich. At noon our latitude obfervcd was 49 d. 33 m, .longitude 175 d. 31 m. W. On Thurfday the 17th, we Taw a iea), fom^ penguins, and pieces of fea weed. On the 19th, we were in latitude ^^ d. 43 m. and on the 20th, at noon, in latitude 54 d. 8 m. longitude 1 62 d 1 8 m. W. Monday, the 2 1 ft, we fteered S. E. by S. and at noon we faiiy abundance of blye petjcrels, in lati- tude s^ d. 3 I'm. longitude i6od. 29 m. On the 22d, at noon, our latitude oy obfervation vvas 55; d. 48 m. longitude 156 d. 56 m. W. In the afternoon, having a light breeze at S. S. E, we fteered eaft, northerly ; and, in the night, was a faint appearance of the Aurora Auftralis. On the 23d, we were in latitude C5 d. 46 m. S. longitude 156 d. 13 m. V/. when a frem gale blew from the weft, and we fteered now E. f N. On the 26th, we were in latitude s^ d. 8 m. S. and in 148 d. 1 m. W. longitude. On Sunday, the 2 7th, we fteered eaft, having a fteady frefh ^ale ; and at noon, were in latitude §^ d. 6 m. S. ^nd in 138 d. s^ ^' ^* longitude. In this parallel, not a hope remained of finding any more land in the Southern Pacific Ocean. We refolved therefore to fteer for the weft entrance of the Straits of Maghellan, with a view of coafting the fouth fide of Terra del Fiiego, round Cape Horn, to the Strait Le Maire. We thought this track might be an advantage to navigation and geo- Ipraphy, as the world is little acquainted with that ftiore. .- '^,i CAPTAIN COOK*8 SECOND VOYAGE. 933 a }n the afternoon we bad fqually weather, which carried away our top-gallant mart. On the 28th, A. M. the bolt rope of the main top- fail broke, whereby the fail was fpiit. The ropes, to our fquare fails efpecially, are not or a fize and ftrength fufFicient to wear out the can- vafs. At noon we were in latitude 55 d. 20 m. S. and in 134. d. 16 m. W. longitude. On the 29th, the wind abated ; and on the 30th, at 8 o'clock P. M. the wind veering to N. E. wc tacked, and flood to E. S. E. We were now in latitude 55 d. 22 m. S. and in 1 28 d. 45 m. W. longitude. Several albatrofles and peterels were feen. . . * On Thurfday, the ift of December, at 3 o'clock P M. it fell a calm, but at about feven, we got a wind at S. E. with which we ftood N. E. On the 5th, a fine gale at fouth, enabled us to fieer eafl, with very little deviation to the north ; and the wind now alterinc to S. W. and blowing a fleady gale, we continued to fteer eaft, inclining a little to fouth. At fix o'clock in the evening, we were in latitude ^^ d. 8 m. and in 1 15 d. 58 m. W. longitude. On the oth, we had fomefnow jihowers; and on Wednefday, the 7th, a fine pleafant pale, with fliowers of rain. On the 9th, at noon, wc found ourfelves by obfervation, in latitude 53 d. 37 m. land in 103 d. 44 m. W. longitude. The wind veered now to N. E. and afterwards came infenfihly round to the fouth by the E. and S. E. On the loth, we paffed a fmall bed of fpa weed, in latitude 54 d. longitude 102 d^ 7 m. W. On the i ith, we fleered K. | a point N. and on the 1 2th, at fix in the evening, we w-^re in latitude 53 d. 35 m. longitude 95 d. 52 in. \V. Many and various forts of alb^itroffes were hovering about the (hip. On Monday, the 1 2th, we had a calm which continued till midnight, when a breeze from the fouth fixing at weft, we fleered eafl. On the 14th, in tlic Imorning, we found the variation of the compafs to be 13d. 2C m. E. in latitude 53 d. 25 ni. longitude 87 d. 53 m. W. which increafed in uich a manner, that on the ]|5th, in the latitude of 53 d. 30 m. longitude 82 d. 23 m. ^: <>34 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. On 5 a ^3 m. W. it was 1 70 E. This day we faw a penguin;! t y :ipd on the i6th, a fe^Ii ;ind fome diving peterels. OqI ^X . , Jiatur^ay the 1 7th, the variation increafed to 2 1 d.! » V ^ j*. 38 m. being in latitude 53 d. 16 na. S. and in 7idijs f. 9 ni. Wv longitude. AH this day wefteered eait by|, ^^^' 9orth,and cail half north, under all the fails we coujdl ^^'^'^ carry, in hopes of feeing the land before nj^ht ; butl.^'^ *i^* no$ maHing it till ten o'clock, we fteered caft, in order! ^^^"^r ^ to m^Jce fure of falling in with CapeDefeada. At mid-I rf^^^ly nighf wp made the land, extending from N.E. by N.Bp} S to E. by S. about fix • leagues dillant^ upon ^eeingi r^°"^^ J which we brought to with tne fhip's head to the foutii.B /![^^if jr Having foi^nded,we found feventy-five fathoqfis watejj'^pj^^^^ J^ the bpttom good. The lai>d befoie us we concluded to, ^^^*^' be the weft coafl of Terra del Fucgo, near the weft enj trance of the Stnuts of Maghellan. 1 his being the firll run made by Captain Cook in a high fmthern latitude, we have been very particular in noting all the raateriali ;ctrcpmftances w*: could collect together. In this coiirfej"^ "A^ ^^^ .^le weather had been neither unufually ftormy.nor coiJ n ^^^^^ three. Thefe obfervations were made at noon^ ^^«nb j i tad now entirely left the Southern Pacific Ocean,and ^eBL^'^^ I? Iruft the world will give our Captain fome credit fcrBrp^^^^^l^* luving well explored the fame ; nor could, in our opiJiiL ° ^ nion, more have been done towards obtaining that ^i^ABfuff ^ ^^S^^ m one voyage, than lias been eire<5led in this, ^^^e "^"^Hifl r^^ V l " not omit to oblerve, that foon after we left New Z^arB 'r** -. land, Mr Wales contrived, and fixed up an inflrumen',R ', ^J^ ^' which ---""^"^-'^ "''»'• r^^^.t «^..,„.,.^,r fi.z, ««v>i« th^ /vinM"^ "OttOm rolled th ppon a Vi'ind. The greateil angle he oblerved the ReJ flrewed v appeared ilidnds. ren, but 1 patches oj of the coa Before we arrived in the latitude of 5od. the mercuryB . [j ^'^^ in tlie thermometer fell gradually from fixty to fi«ty;Bj, P*- and in the latinide of S5 d. it was generally betweeuBj. j^".^^* , \ farry-fcven and forty-five ; once or twice it fell tp forty-B j^ i^^^ \ was t( f()!jtion to roll, the ica at the time not being unufuallyHji^^J*"^' ^^ tk^TMii COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. jj^^ On SundJiy the i8th, t^e made fail, and ftcered S.E. ^^^n'l ^y ^* ^^^"^ ^'^^ ^^^^^' ^^^^ a le^2:uie from the m^'m h • ^j|l i high ragged ifle, whicH we called Landfall. At fcHit '^y*«ip clock A. M. we.WQre N. and S. of the high land of 75/^'l Cape Dfefearda, diftant nine leagues ; but fa W none of the iIB ^^^ rocks faid to lie off it. This cape lies in htitude ^ * ^^^'1 ^^^^^^ ^'^ t*ange^the coaft,and at eleven oVlock, we patffcd L order! ^ projeQing pSint, having a rbund fUrfacs, and of cOtr^ ^^"''•h'l fiderable height, to which we gave the name of Cape • ^y.^'B Gloucefter. it hai^ the appearance of an ifland, and h levJingl| fjj^j3f cd S. S. E. | E, fcventeen leagues from the Ifle of : foutii.DL{indfall. "fietWeen thefe the coall forms two biiys, i \vattr,H flrewed with rocky ill ets, rock^i anxi breakers. The coall , ^^^.^B appeared iincortrie^led, as if formed of a number tif ^^"^"'B iflands. ^Fhe land is very mountainous, rocky, and bar- the hrlt«j.gj^^ 1^^^ j^^ fome places, covered with tufts oF wood, ari^ latitude,Bpjj^.j^gg (^f fnow. tiiom Cape GlOucertel-, the dh-ediatt" matenaWQf ti^g ^oaft is nearly S. E. but to Cape Noir^ foi' which s courleH^g fleered, the coutfe is S. S. E. At noon Cape Glbr.- cefter bore norths diftant eight miles, and the mofl ad- vanced point of land bOre S. E. by S. diftant kttiX Iwgues. At three o'clock v/e pafifed Cape Noir, fi^.iiitcd in latitude C4d. 30 m. S. and in 73 d. 33 m, W. lotl- gltude. When at a diltance, the land of the cape ap- , —peared to be an iflsmd disjoined, hut upon a neitet ^r J!.fl!ippro^t^ we fotmd it conneded by a low neclc of land. *:dit -cM'p^Q todcs lie dt the point of the cape, the one pointed lur op«||jjg ^ fggar-loaf, the other not fo high, vv'irh a roUndter r^^ ftWurface ; and two leiigiits fi'ora the caj>e are two rocky r- ^""liflets, S. bv E. After pafling thefe laR, we croffed the -- /-^a-Bgreat bay bf St Barbara, fteeriiVg E. S. E. The land .it ^^^ll'Bihe bottom of it, which we juft perceived, cotlld notb^ ^^^ I^W''^ ^^^" ^^^^^ leagues off. We ohferved a fpace, Iti the - ■'""■(lireaion of E. N. E. from Gape Noir, where riot atiy hnd was to be feen: this may be the channel of §c Barbara, which opetis into the Straits of Maghellan, as iftentioned by Frazier ; with whofe deftriptioa we foUrtii, tbecape to agree very well. . , ...^ Oa 11 lorco h[\ercur)' o fifty; )etweeQ p forty- We' Iwe ;dit fcrl iailingl iual!|| . ti^ 936 CAPTAIN COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. On the 19th, at two o'clock A. M. we pafled the 5?. E. point of the bay of St Barbara, which the Captain called Cape Defolation, on account of the country near it, being the moll defolate and barren that ever wais feen. It lies in latitude 5:4 d. §^ m. S. and in 72 d. 12 m. \V. longitude. To the eaft of the cape about four leagues, and at the mouth of a deep inlet, is a pretty large ilfand, and fome others lefs confiderable. In latitude ^<; d. 20 m. S. we were three leagues from afi ifland, which Capt. Cook lumed Gilbert Ifle, after his mailer. Its furface is compofed of feverai unequal peaked rocks, nearly of the fame height with the reft of the coaft. S. E. 01 this ifle are breakers, and fome fmaller illands. Scarcely any profpedt can appear with a more barren and favage alpedt, than the whole of this country;] which is compofed of rocky mountains, without a fmgle trace of vegetation to enliven or vary the fcene. The mountains of the coafl: terminate in horrible precipices^ whole craggy fuiximits tower to a vaft height j and thofe that are inland are covered with fnow ; but the former are not. The firft we judged to belong to the main of I Terra del Fuego, and the laft to be iflands, which to ap- ' pearance formed a, coaft. Having made a Ihoft trip to the fouth, we flood in for the land, the neareft j)oint of | which in fight, bore eafl ten leagues. It is a lofty pro- montory, E. S. S. from Gilbert Ifle, in latitude ^^ d. 26 m. S. and in 70 d. 25 m. W. longitude. From our | prefent point of view, it terminated in two high towers, and within them, a hill fhaped like a fugar loaf. To j this rock we gave the name of York Miniler. To the weflward of this head land, about two leagues, we dil- j covered a large inlet, the wefl point of which we fetched in with : and tacked in 41 fathoms water, not more than I half a league from the fhore. To the weflward of this inlet we faw another, w ith feverai iflands at its [ entrance. j OnTuefday the 20th, we perceived.the fhip to drive 1 off the ihore out to fea ; which we attributed to a cur- rent ; for by the melting of the fnow, the inland waters will CAPTAIN COOK»8 SECOND VOYAGE. 937 will occafion a flrcam to run out of mod of thefe inlets. In the evening, a breeze fpringing up at E. by S. we flood in for tlie land, being defirous ot entering one of the many ports, in order to take a view of the country, and to recruit our ftock of wood and water. In (land- ing in for an opening, apparently on the eaft fide of York Minfter, we founded in 40 and 60 fathoms wa- ter. Our laft foundings were nearly between the two points that form the entrance to the inlet, which we ol>- ferved to branch out into two arms. We flood for that to the eaft, as being clear of iflets ; but upon founding, found no bottom with a line of 120 fathoms. In this difagreeable fituation a breeze fpringing up, oiir C iptain refofved to ftand up the inlet ; but night approaching, our fafety depended on cafting anchor, we therefore continued founding, but always, to our mortification, in an unfathomable depth. We now hauled up under the eaft-fide of the land, and feeing a fmall cove, fent the boat a-head to found, while we kept with the fliip as near the fliore as poflible. The boat foon returned with the information we wifhed for, and we thought our- felves happy, when we had anchored in 30 fathoms, in a bottom 01 fand and broken fhells. On the 2 1 ft, a party was fent out with two boats, to look for a more fecure ftation. They found a cove above the point upder which the fliip lay, in which was exceeding good anchorage. At the head of it was a ftoney beach, a valley covered with wood, and a ftream of frefh water ; conveniencies more favourable than we could expert would be found in fuch a place. Here alfo they (hot three geefe out of four. Orders were now difpatcned by Lieut. Gierke to remove the (hip into this place, and we proceeded with Capt. Cook in the other boat, farther up the inlet. We now difcovered, that the land we were under, which disjoined the two arms, as mentioned before, was an ifland, at the north end of which the two channels united. We returned on board, and found every thing in readinefs to weigh ; which was done, and all the boats fent, out to tow the (hip Vol. L— N» 24. 6 C round 938 CAPTAIN COOIC'8 SECOND VOYAGE. round the point ; Init a light breeze Tprlnging np, we were ol)liL;o(l to lirnp the anchor again, leil the fliip fliouUl fall upon the point. However, wc foon after ^ot round this under our ftay-faiis^ and anchored in 20 fathoms water. Wc were now Ihut in from the fea by tlie point abovo-iTientloncd, which was in one with the extremity of the inlet to the eaft. Our dilbnce from ihorc was not ni<>re than a third of a tnile ; and iflets off the next point above us covered the (hip from the N. W. irom wliich quaitcr the wind had the greatefl: force. All hands wore immediately employed: ibme to clear a place to fill water ; fome to cut wood, and others to pitch a tent, for the reception of a guard ; and Mr Wales t:ould lind no better (lalion for his obfcrvatory than the top of a rock, not exceeding nine feet over. On Thurlday, (he 2 2d, two parlies were fent out, one to examine and draw a Iketch of the channel, on the other fide of the ifland, and the Captain, attended by the botanifts, to furvey the northern fide of the fpuna. In our way to this latter place, we landed on the point of a low ifle covered with herbage, feveral fpots of which had been lately burnt ; theie, with a hut we difcoveretf, were figntJ that people were in the neighbourhood. From hence we proceeded round the eaft em\ of Burnt Ifland, over to what we fuppofed to be the main lami of Terra del Fiiego, where we dilcovered a fme harbour, iurrounded by high rocks, down which glided many purling flreams, and at their feet were fome tufts of trees, very fit for fuel. Captain Cook named this harbour the Devif s Kafon.- It is divided into two parts, an inner and an outer one ; and the communication between them is by a narrow channel five fathoms deep. Wc found at one time 17 in the outer bafon, and 23 in the inner one. This laft is Ihaded from the fun in his me- ridian fplendor, and, though very fecure, is intolerably gloomy. The outer harbour has not fo much of this inconvenience, is equally fafe, and rather mere commo- dious. It lies about a mile diftapt from the eaft end of liurnt Ifland, in the diredion north. We difcovered ,. qther , Kcccdiug , i,^7 '"^"M been (ben /ince i V„ «.i1k one (luck, „,r ."'• ^" /'"'< excuifion we IhL L"f/,f "'=»•■'« Gierke and /'i^ r^-',.'""""?' ^''O'n t-.h4?^f^^7-'-? fi^^^^^^^^^ f nt out eo e.«: C'- , '7"'^" •-■S'rea/l of>i,e (?,,,f '^^"'V" '^e ftar- |e hauled over for the hJwi '"'',"'■' "^ '^at ifland fc f rf weeds, iScSf o?' f '"? '"'' '=> -"id P^'^ '^ fathom, under xva"erflut';''"'f^^'"^'' (5 C 2 t'"->us'it It tile ■ iafeit ; / 940 CAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGE. Tafeft way always to keep clear of them. The entrance into the large harbour, which we called Port Gierke, is to the north of fome low rocks, lying off a point on Shag Ifland. This harbour lies in W. by S. a mile and a half. It hath wood and frefh water, and from 1 2 to 24 fathoms deep. To the fouthward of Tort Gierke, feemed to be another harbour, formed by a large ifland ; without this, between it and York Minfter, the whole fea appeared ftrewed with iflets, rocks, and breakers. At the fouth end of Shag Ifland the fliags breed in vaft numbers, in the cliflfs of the rocks. We fliot fome of the old ones, but could not come at the young ones, which are by much the bcft eating. We likewife brought down three wild geele, a valuable acquifition at this time. We returned and got on board at feven o'clock in the evening. Mr Pickedgill, who had jiift before arrived, informed us, that the land oppofite to our llation is an ifland ; that on another, more to the north, he found many terns eggs ; and in a cove between that and the Eaft Head, he had fliot one goofe, and got fome young goflings. On Saturday the 24th, two fporting parties went oyer, one by the N. E. fide of the ifland above mentioned, which was named Goofe Ifland ; and the other accom-| panied by Capt. Gook, went by the S, W. fide. When, under the ifland we had plenty of fport, having fhot as 1 many geefe as ferved for a Chriftmas meal for our men, which proved much more agreeable to them than fait beef and pork. We all returned heartily tired, by| climbing over the rocks, when we had landed, in pur- fuit of our gaine. Ii\ the fouth of the ifland were abun- dance of geefe, it being their moulting feafon, when! mod of them come on (here, and are not difpofed toj fly. Our party got fixty-two, and Mr Pickerfgill, with! his aflTociates fourteen. Plenty of fhags were feen in the! cove, but we proceeded without fpending time or fiiotj upon them. We were informed by our people on board, that a number of natives, in nine canoes, hac been along-fide, and fome of them in the fhip : the) fcemedj f rows V which they ar We th better j Their was a ferve as They any one which &c. a ti ened by that wa Engluiit than we real difa by the ( ftench t place CI joyful fe CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 941 fecmed well acquainted with Europeans, and liad fcveral of their knives among them. On the 2Cth bcinj^ Chri ft mas-day, we had another vifit from them. Tney appeared to he of the iliine nation, we had formerly feen in Succcl's Bay ; and which M. de Bougainville calli? Pechuras, becaufe they conti- nually ufed this word. They are a diminutive, uglv, half-ltarved, bcardlcfs r.ice ; almoit naked, being only (lightly covered with a feal-fkin or two joined togothej-, fo as to make a cloak, which reached to their knees ; but the greateft part of them had hut one (kin, which I'carcely covered their fhoulders, and all their lower parts were quite naked. The women are cloathed no better than tne men, except that they cover their nakcdnefs with a feal-ikin flap. They are inured from tlieir in- fancy to cold and hardfliips, for we faw two young chilaren at the breaft entirely naked. They remained ail the time in their canoes, having their bows and ar- rows with them, and harpoons, made of bone, with which we imagined, they llrike and kill fifli. Both they and their cloaths fmelt moft intolerably jDf train oil. We threw them fome bifcuit, but they feemed much better pleafed with our prefents of medals, knives, &c. Their canoes were made of bark, and on each of them was a fire. They had alfo large feal hides, v/hich may ferve as covering to their huts, on fliore, in foul weather. They all departed before dinner, nor did we believe," any one invited them to partake of our Chriftmas cheer, which confided of geefe, roaft and boiled, goofe-pye, &c. a treat litde known to iis ; and which was heignt- ened by Madeira wine, the only article of our proviuons that vvras mended by keeping. Perhaps our friends in England did not celebrate Chriftmas more cheerfully than we did ; and, with fuch f(ire it would htve been a real difappointment, to have had our appetites fpoiled, by the dirty perfons of thofe filthy people, and oy the ftench they always carried about them. We called this place Chriftmas Sound, in honour of the day, and the joyful feftival we had cc;lebrated here. On the 26th, we were 94i CAPTAIN COOM's SECOND VOYAGE. were ?.;;ai:i virirccl by lome oi ilie nntivR, and as it was ;• very cl;!c1 m the cvciiliig, and they iiood Ir.ivcring on the deck, tlic Captaiu iVom an irnpulfe of hii!n;tiuty, f;ive ihem lome old cniiva'^. and l)?izc tur covcritig. On Tuciihiy the zjtli, every tl/inj^ on ihorc was or- ■ dwTcd en (jOiirJ. 'i lit; weailior be'm>!j fine and pleafaii^ a p^:i!y of us went round by ihe ioiidi lidc of Goolo ][]and, and picked up 3 1 of thefe kind of birds. On tl;c call lide of the iilaud, to the north of the eait point, is a gw>d pl,^ce for i]i';)S to lay in that are bound for O.v: wijis:. When we returned on board, we found ail the wor): uunCj ;u)d tfic launcli in, io that we now only Vv'aitod f )V a iWw wiiif! to put to fea. 'Hie tr.lrance (-f CliiiUnidS Sc»und, wliii-h we expei9.('d iooii tc^ leave, is ' ihrce leagues wide, and Tituated in laiitudc };f^ d. 27 ni. H. and in 70 d. 16 m. VV". lonLvitude ; in t lie diicdion of north 37il.V»'. froinSt lidefonib Iflu?, dlP.un 10 leaj^ucs. "We fliiiik ihele ifles to be the bell Lirid murk lor findiii^i; . the Ibund. It i:* advlfeable for r.o one to anchor very near rlic flinre, fr.r wc generally found tlieve a rocky bottop), 'i hcrefreihments to be procured at this place are wild fowl, very good celery, and p^enty cf rnufcles, not lnr,?;e, hut weh tailed. The geeie are finaller than ft\}.v Engiiiii tain :: ones, but cat as well as the bell: cf them, i lie j^;a::der is ail v;hite ; the female fpotted widi blac!>: aiul whiic, w\:h a large wldte fpot on each v.ln.;. litre is iiiio a kind of duck, which our peopio railed th.e race-horfe, on account of its fwiftnefs on the vale. , \-:,i ihc wings being too (hort to fupport the bo(iy in the air, it cannot fly. We believe, from certain cir- curnitanceR, the people do not live here throughout the whole of the vv-intcr-ieaibn, but retire to parts where the Vv'catljcr is lef^ fevere. To appearance, they are tiie nioil wretcjied of all the natives w^e have feen. They live in an inhofplrahle clime, and do not feem to have iagacl'ty enough to provide theinfeives with the comforts ci life, particularly in the article of cloathing. Barren as this country is, our boianiils found therein many un- ^ * known kr/.nv:! ccth til ;»iiil pi' m.my On with a being tl oac lea} S. J^ ti iuudi,f( (•oait a J) ueie ab| j)«)int of 10 the eal tlon of N if've o*cl(l Tlieie ar( |l;.;:tude ;| tilde. \\l the ea[l. tliree four! [covered h\ E. fix lea^ called Fall jTerra del JFroni the Iciiredion < |i4cr 15 On tlie I'y \J, IV. iC |l;ore E. b) over i |)niat not ^uiTicient t pall Icven itkmtic C fe of th low Ihagf^ CArVAlS COOJ ^\ It Was rinf^ Oil uas or- On t]:c mrjsa ail t];L- ^ only nee (.f avc, is 27111. '•"'^v:i plants. In 1 ■^'^ 'SKCOX-i-) \\-5v Aor:. (till fh tl 1 ':c v;c')c!s j,, j| pJcnty of kT, iC Jn->"y otfjtr fo!t '<-■«, vvJiith w •llv-i tnx' vv'.i. h i>r •i'<'I hAVl 9',} «' !N vC I. On WcJncfclav tl ^ff;rni>Kni„ ihil: { ^vitn a !i;r?it I •(' 2o?( biiiUT til if ncv/. wc i." n\'u(s. •i.'i catN. VV^ ;u «<- eait part of the / !U»on I 'i^'in r!;is / i:. till / luitfij ^^•h; o'clocl: p. ]\,i 5' ^'ccjvd 8 c i.-c j.'^f coa: 3^'>i'fl;clakeof }Vii.;n w^- hai-],...] in •' ). "i*. ippcmvd ifwJciir.'d "^yarcrvicu'or^'t lit] 10 ( iiti \ve!e abieall of llMJiitof thisa 10 :m i). 1i^].,l > ''iiu' at tJii,.") N d. l.'.;itud tilde. Vv the eail. iliree fourths ] 5.; m. 8. oiit iix 1:2 :l e now relwn^cd and in ^^•^\^from tl, onib *^ hall y - ^95! 4 I ri. >^ '-^am, V. \ At iun-f't tl dtl <-'*^Mfini!L(i .V):^'-". ^1 t!ie wt'ii "^^icd laiul I o . om the above me It ] ^^s in Lfii ''V?t;u-io!i'her e/ia!!''. M ri (liredlion of the coalt irjoiied inlet t, ih*.e t' ? :;il; 2: P4cr 15- lea,T:iies fv «. at rour Cape I [ •'^'•e ^. by 8. at a di/l nea rly n, at thv. V ^/ CiC) iu ^"^'-r It; and (i <^'m, for wl ince it is I: llulf 5,> cf. > i?ii^ I'-dih in oi 19 Mi. 'ipc a point o. ,;;/[ •iil:;t licfi we i^.ovv' eii o. J< Hi ad nown bv a ro'^- I J Kie i.'.i J^int not ui :V^^ UKMign to iheW ^^' v' A yet th 'aillcvenwe nWT;..wi.:.. _ i^ cirjjtnation:;wij{:;' t;i( )all it ^we palled tii .'""■' P'lut^a [ills can nticOeean. Two peai fe of the m ill c e, ar :ed r om the otl ^*'^'ays b( !tr. Atb: nrp err I '-ipe, reiembiin^r f,,. ^'-"a.s are on tlic N. ^'- ' 'eefingWkscc;x'i;Kr^r:M.''^-!/ '^'^'il, and one Ibu! iitr n ol ir. oai 5»44 CAPTAIN COOK's SECOND VOYAGT:. From Chrlftmas Sound to this cape, the courfe is E. S. E. one fourth eaft^ diftant 3 1 leagues. The rocky point three leagues from Cape Horn, in the direction E. N. E. we called Miftaken Cape. It is the fouthern point of the eafternmoft of Hermite Ifles. There feemed to , be a paflage between rhefe two capes into Naflau Bay. In this pallage fome ifles were ieen, and on the welt fide, the coaft had the appearance of forming good bays and harbours. In fome cliarts Cape Horn is laid down as part of a fmall ifland, which we had not in our power to confirm or contradid, a? the hazy weather rendered • every ohjed: indiftinf unequal extent. We were ahreaft of the moft caftcr:i one at eight o'clock A. M. wl.en we waited fome time for clear weather : but as it did not clear up as wc wifti- ed, we hauled round the eaft CTid of tlie idand, for the fake of anchorage, if we fhould think it ncceliary. We were now diftant from the ifle two miles, and lounding found only 29 fathoms water. As v/e continued our courfe, we faw on this ifl^nd a great number of i'eals and birds, a ftrong temptation to our people who were In want of frefti provifions ; and in hauling round it, wc had a ftrong race 01 a current, like unbroken water. At length, after fiftiing for the beft groinui, we caft ancljor in 2 1 fathoms water, about a mile from the iiland, which extended from north 18 d. E. to N. §^ d. and halt W. The weather having foon after cleared un, we had a fight of Cape St John, or the eaft end of Staten Land» bearing fouth 75 d. E. diftant four leagues. The iilani4 flieltered us from the north wind, and Staieti Land from the fouth. The other ifles lay to the weft, and fecured us from the north wind ; yet we were not only open to ihcN. E. and E. but to ihe N. W. winds. We might have avoided this iituation, by anclioring more to the weft, but the Captain was delirous of being near the ifland, and of having it in his power tcvgct to fea with any wind. In the afternoon a large party of Vol. L— N« 24. 6 D us ■ 94^ CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. lis landed, feme to kill feals, and others birds or fifli. The illand was io (locked with the former, which made fuch a continual bleating, that we might have thought ourfelves in Eirex, or any other country where cows and calves are in abundance. Upon examination wc found thefe animals different from feals, though they refem- bled them in fliape and motion. The male having a p;reat likenefs to a lion, we called them on that account lions. We alfo found of the fame kind as the New Zealand feals, and thefe we named fea-bears. We fiiot fome of the large ones, not thinking it fafe to go near them ; though, in general, they were fo tame, that wc knocked fome down with our flicks. Here were a few geefe and ducks, and abundance of penguins and fliags ; the latter of which had young ones ahnoft fledged, con- fequently juft to our tade. In the evening our party re- turned fufHciently laden with provifions of various forts. On the id of January, 1775, being Sunday, Mr Gilbert was fent out to Staten Land, in learch of a good harbour, nothing more being wanting, in the opinion of Capt. Cook, to make this place a good port for fhips to touch at for refrefliments. Another party went to bring on board the bealls we had killed the preceding day. The old lions and bears* were good for nothing but their blubber, of w.hich we made oil j but the flefh of the young ones we liked very well : even the flefh of the old lionefles was not much amifs ; but that of the old males was abominable. Capt. Cook took an obfer- vation of the fun's meridian altitude (his height at noon) at the N. E. end of this iOand, which determined its latitude at 54 d. 40 m. 5 f. S. Having fhot a few geefe, fome otiier birds, and fupplied oui Ives plentifully with young ihags, we returned on board in the evening. About ten o'clock the party returned from Sta*en Land, where ihey found a gogd port, in the diredion of north, a little eaflerly, from the N. E. end of the Eaflern Ifland, and diflant three leagues to t)ie weflward of Cape St John. The marks whereby it may be known, are fome fmall iflands lying ir. the entrance. The chan- nel, CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 947 nel, which is on the eaft fide of thcfe iflands, is half a mile broad. The courfe is S. W. by S. turning gra- dually to W. by S. and W. The harbour is almod two miles long, and near one broad. The bottom is a mixture of mud and fand, and hath in it fiom 10 to 50 fathoms water. Here are fcveral ftreams of frefh water, with good wood for fuel. On this ifland are an innu- merable number of fea-gulls, the air was quite darkened with them, upon being difturbcd by our people : and when they role up, we were almoil lufFocated with their (lung, which they feemed to emit by way of defence. This port which is named New- Year's Harbour, from the day on which it was difcovered, and is' certainly a very convenient one for (hipping, bound to the weft, or round Cape Horn. It is true, (hips cannot put to fea with an ealierly or northerly wind ; but thefe winds are never known to be of lortg continuance, and tliofe from the fouth or weft quarters are the moft prevailing. On Tuefday the 3d, we weighed and ftood for Cape St John, which, in the evening, bore N. by E. diftant four miles. This cape, being the eaftern point of Staten Land, is a rock of coniiderable height, lituated in lati- tude 54 d. 46 m. S. and in 64 d. 7 m. W. longitude^ having a rocky iflet lying clofe under the north point ot it. To the weftward of the cape is an inlet, which feemed to communicate with the fea to the fouth ; and between this and the cape is a bay. Having doubled the cape, we hauled up along the fouth coaft. At noon Cape bt John bore north 20 d. E. diftant about three leagues ; Cape St Bartholomew, or the S. \V. point of Staten Land, fouth 83 d. W. two high detached rocks north 80 d. W. By obfervation our latitude was found to be 5J. d. 56 m. S. We now judged this land to have been fufficiently explored ; but before we leave it, think it neceftary to make a few obfervations on this and its neighbouring iflands. ^ The S. W. coaft of Terra del Fuego, with refpeft to inlets and iflands, may be compared to the coaft of Nor- way ; for we believe within the extent of three leagues ■ 6 D 2 there 948 CAPTAIN COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. •there is an inlet or harbour, which will receive nnd fliel- ter the firft rate Ihips; but, till thefe are better known, every nivigator mult, as it were, fiOi for anchorage : add to this, there are feveral rocks on the coaft ; though as none lie far from land, the approach to them may Ite known by founding, if they cannot be feen : fo that uj)- on the whole, we cannot think this the dangtii.us voail is has been rcprcfcnted i)y other voyagers. Siaten I^and is thirty miles in length, and nearly twelve broad. Its furface conlilh of craggy hills, towering up to a vaft heij^ht, efpccially near the well end, and ihe coaft is rocky. The greateft part ofthe hills, their fummits ex- cepted, is covered with trees, (lirubs, and licrbagc. AVe cahnot fay any thing, that navigators may depend on, concerning the tides and currents on thele coaRs ; but we obferved that in Strait Le Maire, the foutherly tide, or current, begins toad. at,the new and full moon about four o'clock. It may alfo be of ufe to our commandei s to remark, that if bound round Cape Horn to the weft, and not in want of any thing that might make it necei- fary to put into port, in this cafe, we wooldadvifethem not to come near the land ; as by keeping out to fea, they would avoid the currents, w^hich, we are convinced, lofe their force at twelve leagues from land ; and at a greater diftance they would find none to impede their courfe. We would juft add to thefe nautical obferva- tlons, that all the time of our being upon the coaft, we had more cahns than ftorms; the winds were variable; nor did we experience any levere cold weather. The mercury in the thermometer, ai noon, was never below 46 d. and during our ftay in Chriftmas Sound, it was ge- nerally above temperate. The ifland we landed on, and the fame may be faid of the neii'hbouring ifles, is not much unlike Staten Land. Its furface is of equal height,having an elevation of thirty or forty feet above the lea, from which it is fecured by a rocky coaft. It is covered with fword grafs, of a beau- tiful verdure, and of great length, growing in tufts, on little hillocks. Among thefe are the tracks of fea bears • and CAPTAIN COOK'S SFXOND VOYAGE. 949 and penguins, by which they retire into the centre of the ifle. Thefe paths rendered our excuriions rather dit- agreeable, for we were fometimes up to our knees ia mire. Indeed the whole furface is moift and wet. The animals on tliis little fpot are fca lions, fca bears, a va- riety of fea fowls, and fome land birds. The largeft lion we faw was fourteen feet long, and eight or ten in cir- cumference. The back of the head, the neck and fhoulders, are covered with long hair, like tliofc of the lion ; the other parts of the body with (hort hair, like that of the horfe : the colour of both is a dark brown. The female is of a light dun colour, and about half the fize of the male. They live in herds near the i'ea-fnore, and on the rocks. As this was the time for engender- ing, and bringing forth their young, we faw a male with twenty or thirty females about him, and lie feemed very defirous of keeping them ail to himfelf, beating oif every other male who attempted to approach the flock. The fea bears are fmaller than the lions, but rather larger than a common feal. All their hairs are of an equal length, fomething like an otter's, and the general colour is that of an iron-grey. This kind the French call lea wolves, and the Englifli feals. They are, however, dif- ferent from thofe in Europe and North America. The lions too may be called overgrown feals ; for they ?re ail "of the fame fpecies. The hairs of the fea bears are much finer than thofe of lions. They permitted us to approach very near ; but it was dangerous to go be- tween them and the fea, for if they happened to take fright, they would come down in vaft numbers, and run over thofe who could not get out of their way. They arc fluggifli, fleepy animals, and downright bullies ; for if waked out of their fleep they would raife up their heads, fnort, fnarl, and look very fierce ; but when we advanced to attack them^they always ran away. This^ place abounds with penguins, which are amphibious oirds, and fo ftupid, that we could knock down as many as we pleafed with a flick. They are not very.^ood eating, though we thought them fo when in want ol bet- ter 95© CAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGK. ter fare. This was proliahly not their breeding feafon, .for we faw neither eggs nor young ones. Here are great numbers of Ibags, who build their nefts near the edge of the cliffs, on little hillocks ; but a fmaller kind, which we faw build in the cliffs of the rocks. The geefe are of the fame forr as thofe in Ghriftmas Sound, but not in fuch plenty. They make a noife exadly like 2 duck. Here are leveral ducks of the fort we called race-horfes ; fome we fliot weighed thirty pounds. The fea fowls are curlews, gulls, tern, Port Egmont hens ; and large brown birds, pretty p;ood eating, which ■we called Molary's geefc. The land birds were eagles, liawks, thruflies, and bald-headed vultures, whicli our failors named Turkey-buzzards. Two new fpecies of birds were here difcoyered^ by our naturalilts. One is the (ize of a pigeon, with a plumage white as milk, but not web-footccl. When we hrft law theib kind of birds we took them for fnow peterels,but they refemble them only in frze and colour. They have a very bad fmell, ©wing probably to their food being fhell-tifh and car- rion, which they pick up along Ihore. The other fort, shnoft as big as a heron, refemble nearefl curlews. Their plumage is variegated, their bills long and crook- ed, and their principal colours are light grey. All the ani- mals of this little fpct live in perfb£t harmony, and fecm careful not to tlidurb each other's tranquillity. The fea- lions poiTefs moil of the iea-coaft ; the bears take up their quarters within the ifle; the (hags lodge in the liigheft cliffs; the penguins have their fepa rate abode where there is the moft eafy communication to and from ihe fea ; and the other birds have their places of retire- ment ; yet we have obferved them all, with mutual re- concilement, mix together, like doraeftic cattle and poultry in a farm-yard : nay we have feen the eagles and vultures litting together among the ftiags, on their Iiillocks, without the latter, either young or old, being ditTurbed at their prefence. It will be remembered, that we left Staten Ifland on the ^jd, and this day, being Wednefday the 4th, we faw - - ' the CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 951 the land again, at three o'clock A. M. anci .^t Hx o'clock in the afternoon a heavy Iqmll came ib iuldciily upon us, that it carrieJ away a top- gal ! an ♦^- mail, a Ihulclin;^- lail boom, and a iore llndding-iail. This ended in a heavy Ihowtr (jI rain; and vv'e now ile^retl 8. V/. in order to difcover the gnlpli of St , iSeballian, ifllicha coali exiiled,in which that gnlph has been reiircicnred, for of this we entertained a douhi : h(»wever, -ihis ap- peared to be the belt courfe to clear it up, and to ex- plore the fouihern part of this ocean. On the ^^rh, by ebiervation, we were in lautiule jjd. i)in. arid 5 d. 2 m. E. longitude from Cape St John. \)n the 6'h, at eight o'clock in the evening, we were in ladtnde ^8 d. 9 m. S. and 53 d. 14 m. \V. ilie fjtuation, nearly, idljgn- ed for the S. W . point of the giiipti of St Sebaltian ; but • feeing no figns of land, w^e were ilill (.loubtful of its ex- igence ; and being alio fearful, that by keepin;^ to the ibuth, we might mils the land laid to be difcovered by La Roche in 1C75, and by the Ihip Lion, in 1 756 ; for thefe reiilons we hauled to the north, in oider to get in- to the parallel laid down by Dalrymple a.sioon as poffi- ble. On the yih, we were, near midniglit, in liic lari- tade of 5() d. 4 m. S. longitude 53 d. 36 m. W. On the 8th, at noon, a bed of fca- weed pafled the fnip ; and in the afternoon we were in laritude ^^i; d. 4 m. longi- tude 51 d. 45 m. On Monday, the 9th, we i'lw a leal, and fea- weed. On the icth, at two o'clock A. M. Vv-e bore away eaft, and at eight E. N. E. At noon, by oI> krvation, we were in latitude 54 d. ^^ m. S. and in 47 d. ^6 m.'\V. longitude. We had at tliis time a great number of albatrofTes and blue peterels about the ihip. We now fleered due call; and on the i ith, were in la- titude 54 d. 38 m. longitude 45 d. 10 m. W. On" the 1 2th, being Thurfday, we fleered call northerly ; and at noon oblerved in latitude 54 d. 28 m. S. and in 42 d. 8 ra. W. longitude, which is near 3 d. K. of the fiiua- tion, laid down by Mr Dairy mple for the K. E. point of the gulph of St Stbaitian j but we had no other intima- J52 CAPrAiN COOK'S SrCOND VOYAGE. tions of land, than feetnjjj a feal, and a few penguins ; and we had afwell from E. S. E. which we think would not have been, had any extenfive track of land lay in that diredtion. On Friday, the i 3th, we ftood to the fouth till noon, when finding ourfel ves in latitude ^^ d. 7 m. we ftretched to the north. We now faw feveral penguins, and a fnow peterel, which we judged to de- note the Vicinity of ice. We alfo found the air much colder than we had felt it lince we left New Zealand. In the night we ftood to the N. E. On Saturday, the 14th, at two o'clock P. M. in latitude ^^ d. i;6 m. 30 1". S. and in longitude 39 d. 24 m. W. we diibovered lanJ, in a manner wholly covered with fnow. We founded , in one hundred and feventy-ilve fathoms, muddy bot- tom. The land bore E. by S. diftant twelve leagues. On the 1 5th, the wind blew in fqualls, attended with fnow and fleet, and we had a great fea to encounter. At paft four P. M. we ft:ood the S. W. under two courfes; but at midnight the ftorm abated, fo that we could carry our top-fails double reefed. On the i6th, at four o'clock A. M. we ftood to the eaft, with a moderate breeze, and at eight faw the land extending from E. by N. to N. E. by N. At noon, by obfervation, we were in latitude jA^d. 25 m. 30 f. and in 38 d. 18 m. W. longitude. The land was now about eight leagues diftant. It proved to be an ifland, and we called it Willis's Ifland, from the name of the perfon who M difcovered it from the maft-head. It is a high rock of I no great extent. We bore up to it with a view of ex- ploring the northern coaft ; and as we advanced per- ceived another ifle to the north, between that and the main. Obferving a clear paflage between both we fteered for the fame, and in the midway found it to be two miles broad. Willis's ifle is in the latitude of 54d. j S. and in 38 d. 23 m. W. longitude. The other, which 1 was named Bird Ifland, a number of fowls being feen upon the coaft, is not fo high,'but more extenfive ; and is near the N. E. point of th6 maii;i land, which Capt. Gook named Cape North, We faw feveral maflbs of! lhow,[ CAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGE. 953 fnow, or ice, in the bottoms of feme bays on tbe S. E. coail of this lurid, particularly in one which lits ahr^iit ^iree leagues to the S. S. K. of Bird Hie. On Monday the 1 6th, havii g got through the paOiigc, we obicrved die north coail trended E. by N. for about three Icai^iicn, and then K. and K. by S. to Cape Bidler, wliich is ticvea miles. We ranged the coafl till near niglir,at one league diftancc, when on founding we found liliy farlionir., and a muddy bottom. On the 17th, at two o'clock, A. M. we made for the land. We now Reeird .»long Hiore till feven, when, feeing the appearance of ;in inlet, we hauled in for it. The Captain, accompanied by Mr Forller and others, went off in a bout, to reconnoitre the bay before we ventureil in with the (hip. They landed in three different places, difplayed our CGloLiri;, and took polFellion of the country in his majeliy's name. The head of the bay was terminated by ice cliffs of con- fiderable height ; pieces of which were coniinually breaking off, which made a noife like a cannon. i\'or were the interior parts cf the country lefs horrible. The favage rocks railed their lofty fummits till 1utk On the 27th., at noon, wc were in the latitui of 59 d. 46 m, S. and had fo thick a fog that ue couj not iee a fliip's length. We expeded foon to fall with the ice, and on this account, it xbeing no Ion, fafe to " •' ' '' gentle _ we refumed our courie to the lootn ; put it returneo^^jji' , _- gain, which obliged us to haul upon a wind. ^y°Btocarrv u' reckoning we were now in the latitude of 60 d. S. ^■progjp^ ^ unlefs we difcc\ered fome certain figns of foonfalli^ ^ >' courfe to jjer of lai ice, and ous to ftai ftood bad ''^cre now equal heig tent. Tt CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 959 in with land, the Captain determined to make this the limit of his voyage to the Ibuth. Indeed it would not have been prudent to have fquandered away tune in proceeding farther to the foath, when there was as great a probability of finding a large track of land near Cape Circumcirion. Helides it was an iikfome tafk to traverfe in high fouthern latitudes, where nothing wis to be difcovered but ice. At this time a long hollow fwell from the weft, indicated that no land was to be expe(Sled in fuch a diredion ; and upon the whole, we may venture to affeit, thit the extLiifive coaft laid down by Mr Dalrymple, and his Gulph of St Sebaf- tian, do not exift. The fog having receded from us a I little at feven o'clock in the evening, w^e faw an ice [iHand, penguins, and fnow petereis. In ihe night, be- ing vifited with a return of the fog, w^e w^erc obliged to go over againll that fpace which we h?id, in fome de- gree, made ourfelves acquainted v>ath in the day. On the 28th, at eight o'clock, A, M. we ftood to the eaft, with a gentle breeze at north. The weather clear- led away, and we perceived the fea ftrewed with large land fmall bodies of ice. Some whales, pengitl-.s, (hovvr petereis, and other birds v/ere feen. We had 10 w fun- ftiine, but the air was cold. At noon, by obfervation, we were in 60 d, 4 m. S. and in 29 d. 23 m. W. lon- gitude. At half pad two o'clock, having continued our courfe to the eaft, we fuddenly fell in with a vafl num- ber of large ice iflands, and a fea ftrewed with loofe ice, and the weather becomii^g hazy, made it danger- ous to ftand in among them. \Vc therefore tacked, and 1 ftood back to the weft, with the wind at the north. We Vvcre now furrounded with ice iflands, all nearly of an I equal height, with a flat level furface ; but of various ex- tent. The lOofe ice, with which the fea appeared |ftrewed, had broke from thefe ifles. On Sunday the 19th, having little wind, we were lobligcd to traverfe in fuch courfes, as were moft lik<^ly to carry us clear of them, fo that we hardly made any progrels, one way or other, throughout the whole day. Tlie 9 the bays, if they are ever fo large. The continual fall of fnow occalions the accumulation of ihefe cliffs, till they can fupport their weight no longer, and large pieces break off from thefe ice-iflands. We are inclined to believe, that theiie ice-cliffs, where they are (heltered from the violence of the winds, extend a great way into ihe fea. On the 5th, having feen no penguins, we thought that we were leaving land behind us, and that we had paffed its northern extremity. At noon we were 3 d, of longitude, to the eaft of Saunders Ifle ; and by ob- fervation in the latitude of 57 d. 8 m. S. and in 23 d, 34 m. W. longitude. In the afternbon we again ftretch- ed to the fouth, in order that we might again fall in with the land, if it took an eaft direction. On Monday the 6th, we held on our courfe till the 7th at noon, when we found our latitude to be 58 d. 15 m. S. and longitude 21 d. 34 m. W. and not leeing any figns of land, we concluded, that what had been group of iflands, or a point of the continent : for io Capt. Cook's opinion, the ice that is fpread over this vaft Southern Oceart, muft originate in a tra^ of land, which he firmly believes lies near the pole, and extends fartheft to the north, oppofitethe Southern Atlantic and Indian Oceans; for ice being found in thefe farther to the north, than any where elfe, induced the Captain to conclude, that land of confiderable extent muft exift near the fouth, Upon a contrary fuppofition it will follow, that we ought to fee ice every where under the fame parallel; but few (hips have met with ice going round Cape Horn ; and for our part, we faw but little below the iixtieth degree of latitude in the Southern Pacific Ocean ; on the other hand in this fea, between the meridian of 4P d. W. and fifty or fixiy degrees eaft, we found ice as far north 5< d. Others have feen it in a much lower latitude. Let us now fuppofe there is a Southern Con- tinent within the polar circle, The queftion which ■'*''«H*t. CAPTAIN COOK'S riECOND VOYAGE. 9C5 readily occurs, will be, What end can he anfwered in dilcovcring or explormg Ibch a coaft ? Or what ufe can the Tame be cither to navigation, geography, or any other Ibience ? And what benefits can relult therefrom to a commercial lUte? Confivler for a moment, what thick fogs, fnow, dorms, inienfe cold, and every thing dangerous to navigation, mull be encountered with by every hardy adventurer ; behold the horrid afped of a country, impenetrable by the animating heat of the fun's rays ; a country doomed to he immerlcd in everlafting fnow. See the illands and floats on the coaft, and the continual falls of the ice-cliffs in the ports : thefe diffi- culties, which misht be heightened by others not lefs dangerous, are fufiicient to deter every one from the ralh attempts of proceeding farther to the fcuth, than our expert and brave commander has done, in fearch of an unknown country, which when dilcovered would an- [wer no valuable purpofe whatever. By this time wc had travcrfed the Southern Ocean, in fiich a manner, as to have no doubt in determining that there is no continent, unlefs near the Pole, and out of the reach of navigation. We have macie many new dii- covcries, and afcertained the exa£l fituatlon of fevcral old ones. Thus was the end of our voyage fully an- Ifwered, a fouthern liemifphere fnfficiently explored, and theneceffity of a fearch after a fouthern continent put an end to. We (hould have proceeded to farther difco- |veries, but Captain Cook thought it cruel to detain the people who failed with him any longer without thcne- ceflary refrefhments, elpecially, as their behaviour me- rited every indulgence ; 'for nc;ither cfficers nor men ever I once repined at any hardship, nor exprcfTcd any uneafi- [nefs, or additional fear of danger, on account of our fe- paration from the Adventure. It was now high time to think of returning home ; and could we have continued longer, we iLould have been in great danger of the Icurvy breaking out among us, and we do not know any good pqrpofc farther difccveries would have anfvv'crcd : li 96(5 CAPTAIN COOICs SECOND VOYAGE. we therefore fleered for the Cape of Good Hope, in- tending to look for Bou vet's difcovery, Cape Circumci- fion, and the ifles of Denia and Marfeveen. But be- fore we continue 'the narrative of this voyage, it may not be thought improper to collet a few obfervations irom our moft eminent writers, on Terra Magellanica, pHtagonia, part of which coaft lies within the ftraits, the ifjand of Terra del Fuego ; and Falkland's Tflands. Terra Magellinica received its name from Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguefe officer; who likewife gave name to thofe ilraits wliich lead from the fouth to the north iea, he being the fiift who failed through them. The appdlation of Patagonia was derived from a principal tribe of its inhabitants, called Patagons. The whole country, which goes under the name of Patagonia, ex- tends from Chili and Paraguay to the utmoft extremity of South An?Aenca, that is, from 35 almoft to 54 degrees of fouth latitude, being 700 miles long, and 300 broad, where widelh The northern parts contain an almolt inexhauftible flock of lar^e timber, but in the fouthern diflrids there is fcarcely a tree to be feen fit for any me- chanical purpofe. The lofty mountains, called the An- des, traverfe the whole country from north to fouth. Here are incredible numbers of wild horned cattle and horfes, which. were firfl brought hither by the Spaniards, and have increafed amazingly; the pafturage , alfo is good. Some writers tell us that frefh water is fcarce ; but were that the cafe, we cannot fee how the prefent inhabitants, and fuch multitudes of cattle could fubfirt. The eafl coail is chiefly low-land, with few or no goo4j harbours ; that called St Julian is one of the befl. The inliabitants of Patagonia confifl of feveral Indian tribes, as the Patagons, Pampas, CofEires, &c. They are a lavage, barbarous people, of a copper colour, like the refl of the Americans, with coarfe black hair, and no beards. They are mightily addi broad, a ahnolt fouthem any me- the An- uth. ttle and aniards, „airo is fcarce ; prefent fubfift. o goo4 Indian They |ur, like ^ir, and liming [bodies. Ire gar^ ofie- vcral CAPTAIN COOK*s SECOND VOYAGE. <)6^ veral animals, and fcwed together, which they fomc- times wrap round them in extreme cold weather ; and they have alfo a cap of the fkins of fowls on their heads. Former voyagers xeprefented them as monilrous giants of eleven feet high, whereas they are no taller than the other Americans. The women, as in other places, are very fond of necklaces and bracelets, which they make of fea (hells. The natives chicily live on filh and game, and what the earth produces fpontancoufly. This country abounds with an animal called camel- (heep by fome authors, but their true name is guanicocs. They partake of the nature of the camel, though they have no bunch on the back, and they were formerly made ufe of to carry burdens. They liave alfo a bird called an oftrich, but. not fo large, and they difterfrom the African oftriches in having three toes, whereas thofe have but two. A great number of iflands, or cluf- ters of iflands, lie on the coafts of Patagonia. The iiland of Terra del Fuego, or the Land of Fire?, as it was called by the firft dilcovcrers, on account of their having obferved fome great fikcs upon it (fuppofed to be volcanoes) as they palTed it in the ni^hr, is fepa- rated from the continent by the Magellanic Straits ; has a rough appearance, being very mountainous, but is interi?dled with deep narrow vallies, and is well water- ed. The natives of this country aij (hart in their per- fons, not exceeding five feet fix inches at moft, their heads large, their faces broad, their cheek-bones very prominent, and their nofes very flat. Thev have little brown eyes, without life ; their hair is blade and lank^ hanging about their heads in diforder, and befnieared with train oil. On the chin they have a few ftraggling Ihort hairs inftead of a beard, and from their nofe there is aconftant difcharge of mucus into their ugly open mouth. The whole aflTcmblage of their features forms the mod: loathfome pidure of mifery and wretchednefs to which human feature can poflibly be reduced. They, had no other cloathin^ than a fmail piece of feal Ikiir, ^hich hung from their (boulders to the middle of the back, 3 CAPTAIN COOK'3 SECOND VOYAGE. back, beinpj faftened rouml the neck \vlth a ftrlnj-. TIi« reft of their body was perfedly naked, not the leaf!: re- gard being paid to decency. Their natural colour fccnvs to be an olive brown, with a kind of p;lofs refemhlin;^^ that of copper ; but many of them dilguifc themfelves with ftreaks of red paint, and fometimes, though feldom, with white. Their whole charadler is the ftronpicfl compound of ftupidity, indifference, and inadivity. They have no other arm*? than bows and arrows, ami their inftrumcnts for fifhing a kind of fifh(Tags. They live chiefly on fcals flelh, and like the fat oily part molt. There is no pnpearance of any fubordination among them, and their mode of living approaches nearer to that of brutes, than that of any other nation. The chil- dren go naked, and the only weapon of the men is a long llick j>enerally hooked, and pointed at the end like a lance. They live in huts made of boughs, and cover- ed with mud, branches, &c. One fide is open, and the fire-place i»in the middle ; and a whole family herd together in one of thefe miferable hovels. The above-mentioned iflands are all very barren ami mountainous ; but from what Mr Forfter fays, in his voyage to the South Sea, the climate did not appear to be fo rigorous and tempelhious as it is repreiented in Anfon*s voyage. Upon the lower grounds and iflands that were Qielrered by the high mountains, feveral forts of trees and plants, and a variety of birds were found. Among the trees, waj Winter's bark-tree, and a fpecies of arbulus, loaded with red fruit of the lize of fmall cherries, w^.iich were very well tafted. In fome places there is alfo plenty of celery. Among the birds was aj fpecies of duck of the fizi of a goofe, vrhich ran along the fea with an amazin^ velocity, beating the water with its wings and feet : ic had a grey plumage, with a yellow bill and feet, and a few white qiiiil feathers : at the Falkland iflands it is called a loggerhead duck. A- mong the birds are alfo plenty of ^eefe and falcon?. The rocks of fome of the iflands are ccversd with large j mufcle- CAPTAIN COOIC*s SIXOND VOYAGE. o<^^ mil Tele- Ih ells, tlie lllli of whicli ir. laid to be more dcli- cat'j th;i!i oyllcis. FallJniurs i'lands were firfl dUcovcreil in i ^-()4, by Sir Richard Hawkins, who nuiicd iho j)rincipal of them Ilawkin^'s M/ulotdand, in hoiiour of () i"\:'a Elizabeth. The ])rci'cnr name, Falkland, was prohahlv given them by (^'otaiii Siron.;, in 1609, and altcrwardj adopted by lialley. The late Lord F/^mont, VM f.-rd of the Admiralty, in 1764, then revived the fchemeof a fettlement in the Sourh Seas ; and Commodore I3yron was fent to t:i'>.e podllFion of r'alkland's Iliands in the name of his Bri- tannic Majclly, and in his journal rcprefcnts them as a valuable acquiiilion. On the other hand, they are re- prefented by Captain M'Hride, wlio, in 1766, faccced- ed that gentleman, as the outeads (if nature: " Wo found, fays he, a map of illandij and broken lands, uf which the foil was nothing but a bog, with no belter profpeO. than that of barren mountains, beaten by ftonns nlmofl perpetual. Yet this is fummer; and if the winds of winter hold their natural proportion, thofe who lie but two cables' length from th.e fhore, mull pafs weeks without any communication wilh it." J'he herbs and vegetal)les which were planted by Mr Byron's peo- ple ; and the fir-tree, a native of rugged and cold cli- • mates, had withered. In the iiimmer mon'hs, wild celery and forrel are the natural luxuiiesof thefe illanJs. Goats, flieep, and liogs, that were carried hitlier, wt rs found to increafe and thrive as in other place:^. Geefe of a fifliy tafte, fnipes, penguins, foxe^, and fea-Iion?;, are alfo found here, and plenty of good water. Though the foil be barren, and the iea tcuipt fiuous, an Englifli fettlement was made here, of winch we were difpofTefled by the Spaniards in 1770. ^ That violcnre was, however, difavowcd bv the Spanifh amb lilador, and fome conceilions were made to the court or Great Britain ; but in order to avoid giving umbragfe to the coiirt of Spain, the fettlement was afterwards aban- doned. Voi. I.-No 25. 6 G' ^ On •Wi'-..- * ' K ■ ^t-V^: 9/0 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. On TucQay the 7th, wc refumed our courfc to the eaft, and this day only three ice illands were Teen. At eiglit o'clock in the evening, we hauled the wind to the S. K. for the nipht. On llie 8th, at day-liglit, we con- tinued our ccurfc to the eaft, being in latitude 58 d. 30 m. 8. and in 15 d. 14 m. W. longitude. In the af- tcnioo!! piilild three ice illands. On the gih, we had a calm moll part of the day ; the weather tair, except at times a inovv llicvver. We faw feveral ict illands, but not the lead intimation that could induce us to think that any land was near us. We flood now to N. E. with a biec/e which iprung up at S. E. On the loth, wc had Ihowers (-f fleet and fnow ; the weather w.as piercing cold, inibmuch that the water on deck v;as iiozen. The ice illands were continually in fight., On the 1 ith, we continued to fteer eaft. in the morning \^€. had heavy fhovvers of faow ; but as the day ad- vanced, we had clear and ferene weatlier. At noon wc were in latitude 58 d. 1 1 m. and in 7 ' ^5 m. W. lon- gitude. On the 1 2th, we had ice iflai ontimially in light, but moil of them were fmall and breaking to pieces. On Monday the 13th, we had a heavy fidl of fnow ; hut, tiie iky clearing up, we had a fair night, and fo jliarp a froll, that the water in all our veHels on deck, was next morning covered with a (lieet of ice. On the 14th, we continued to fleer eafl, inclining to the north, and in the afternoon crofTed the firft meridian, or that of Greenwich, in the latitude of 57 d. 50 m. S. At eight o'clock we had a hard gale, at S. S. W. and a liigh fea from the fame quarter. , On the i 5th, we fleered E. N. E. till noon, when, by obfei'vation, we were in la- titude of i;6 d. 37 m. S. and in 4d. 1 1 m. E. longitude. We now failed N. E. with a view of getting into the latitude of Cape Circumcifion. We had fome large ice illands in fight, and the air was nearly as cold as the preceding day. The night was foggy, with fnow Ihowers, and a fmart frofl. On Thurfday the 1 6th, we continued ur ccurfe N. E. and at noon we obferved - ia CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 971 in latitude 55 d. 26 m. S. and in 5 d. 52 m. K. InnLri- tilde, in which fituation wc hnd a prcat 1 well iVoni the ibiuh, but^ no ice in light. At one o'clo-'k we ilocA to S. E. till fix, when we racked, and i]nn[\ to tlv..* north. At this time we had a heavy iall of i'now and fleet, which fixed to the malls and n;5gin!:i:; as ic illl, a?id coat- ed the whole wuh ice. On the 17th, we had a j.^reat high ica from the fonth. from wlieuce we concluded no land was near in that direction. At this time were in latitude 54 d. 20 In. S. and in 6 d. t,^ m. E. longi- tude. On the 1 8th, the weather was* lair and clear. We now kept a look out for Cape CirciM-ncIfion ; for if the land haa ever fo little extent in the'diiedlion of N, and S. we could not mifs feeing it, as the northrin point is faid to lie in 54 d. On the icjtii, at eight o'clock in the morning, land appeared in the diredion eaft by fouth, but it proved a aiere fog-bank. We now fleer- ed call by fouth and S. E. till ievcn o'clock in the even- ing, when we were in latituc'e 54 d. 42 m. S. and in 13 d. 3 m. E. longitude. We now ilood to N. \V. Iiaving a very ftrong gale, attended with (now fhowcrs. On Monday the 20th, we tacked and ftrctchcd to N. E. and had a frefh gale, attended with fiiov/ ihowers and fleet. At noon we were in latitude 54 d. 8 m, S. lon- gitude 12 d. 59 m. E. but had not the leall fign of land. On the 2 ifl, we were 5 d. to the eafl of the longitude in which Gape Cirramcihon is faid to lie, and continued our courfe ead, inclining a I'Ule to the fouth, till the 2 2d, when, at noon, by obfervation we were in latitude 54 d. 24 m. S. and in 1 9 d. 18 m. E, longitude. Ws had now meafured in the latitude laid down for Bou-^ vet's land, thirteen degrees of longitude ; a courfe in which it is hardly poiFible w^e could have miiled it; we therefore began to doubt its exiftence j and con- cluded, that what the Frenchman had feen, could be nothing more than a deception, or an ifland of ice : for after we had left the fouthern ifles, to the prefent time, ngt the leaft veftige of land had been difcovered, 6 G 2 Wc 972 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. We faw, it is true, fome feals and penguins ; L at thefe are to be found in all p/.rts of the (burhern ocean, and we believe fhags,, gannrts, boobies, and men of war birds, are tlie mofl: induhifable figns tliat denote the \icinity of lands, as they leldom go very far out to Tea. Being at this time only two degrees of longitndc from our rciire to the fouth, wdicn we took our depariurc frpm the Cape of Good Hope, it was in vain for us to continue cur courfc to the eaft, under this parallel ; but thinking we might have feen land tartlier to the fouth, for liiis reafon, and to clear up fome d<^ uNt^ we fleered S. E. in ordcr^o get into tlie (iniation in which it was fuppofed to lie. On the 23d, from cbl'ervations on Se- veral diftances of the fun and moon, we found ourlelves in the latitude of 5 j d. 25 m. S. and in 2^ d. 22 m. E. longitude; and havmg run over the track m which the land was fuppored to lie, without feeing any, we now were well allured the it e iflands had deceived Mr liou- vet ; as at tiff js they had deceived us. During the niglit the wind veered to N. W. which enabled us to iieer more north ; for we had now laid ahde all thoughts of fearching farther after the French difcoveries, and were determined to diretSl our courfe for the Cipe of Good Hope, intending only by the way to look for the ifles of Denia and IVlarfeveen, which, by Dr Halley, are laid down in the latitude of 41 d. 5 m. and 4 d. E. lon- gitude from the meridian of the C'ape of Good Hope. On Friday th.e 25tli, we (leered N. Fl. and were at noon in latitude 52 d. 5*2 m. S. longitude 26 d. 31 m. F. This day we faw the lad ice ifland. On Wedncfday the 1 ft of March, we were in latitude 46 d. A4 m. S. and in 23 d. 36 m. W. longitude ; ami we took notice, that the whole time the wind blew re- gular and conftant northerly, which included feveral days, tiie weather was always cloudy and very hazy; but as foon as it came fouth of weft, it cleared up. We alfo obferved, that the barometer began to rife feveral days before this change happened. On the 3d, in the afternoon, we had intervals of clear weather, but at night CAPTAIN COOlCs SECOND VOYAGE. 97 night the wind hlcw a heavy fqiiall from S. V/". >jvhere- |by feveral of our lails wrr: fplit, and a middle ftay-iail was wholly loft. Our latitude was 45 d. 8 m. wS. longi- tude 30 d. 50 m. E. On WedntTday the 8th, the ther- mometer role to 61 d. and we were ol>li<^cd to put or; li[^liter cloaths. We were now in latitude 41 d. 30 m, S. longitude 26 d. 5 1 m. E. Wc had not yet feen any jigns of land, hut albatrcfies, peterds, and other fea birds, were our daily viiitors. On the i ith, the wind Ihifred fuddcnly from N. W. to S. Vv. which oeealioned the mercury to fall is hukienly from 62 to 52 d. fo diiU'rent was the (late of the air between a nonh.erly and ibutl.er- ly wind. Our Intitu'^.e th/is day was 40 d. 40 m. S. lour gitude 23 d. 47 m. E. Sunday the I2\\u feme albatrofies and peterels were lliot, which proved an acceptable treat. This dny we were nearly in the liru.vtion, in vvhich the illes of Denia and Ma.'feveen arc faid to lie, and not the leni\ hope of leading them remained. On the 13th, we O.ood to N. N. W. and at roon, by obfervation, v/ere in latitude 38 d. 5 1 m. S. which was above thirty miles more than our log gave us ; to what this difterencc was owing, we could not determine. The watch alfo (liewed that wc had been fet to the eaft. At tliis time we were two lie- grees north of the parallel in whicli the iiles are laid liown, but found not any encoura;?:cmcnt to perfevere ill our endeavours to iind them, 'i'his muit have con- fume J more time, we think, in a fruitlefs fearch ; and every one, all having been confined a long time to iiale and fait provifions, wa?. impatient to get into port. We therefore, in compliance with vhe general wilh, refolved to make the beft of our way to the Cape of Good Hope, We were now in latitude 38 d. 38 m. S. and in 23 d. 37 m. E. longitude. OnThurfday the i6lh, at day-break, wc defcried in the N, W. quarter, ftanding to the weftward, two fail, one of which (hewed Dutch colours. At ten o'clock we ftood to thQ weft alfo, and were now in the latitude ■ .of i',:^. 974 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. of 35 d 9 m. S. and in longitude 2 2 d. 38 m. E. Ahoutl this time, a qunrrel arofe between three officers, and thel ihip's cooks, which was not reconciled without ferious conlequences. Thofe three gentlemen, upon fome oc. cafioM or other, entered the cook-room with naked knives, and with oaths, uii becoming their characlcr, fwore they would take aw:jy the lives of the firft who dared to affront them. It feems they had formerly ir.t^t • with feme rebufTs for too much frequenting the cooks apartmentSjWhich had hitherro pailed in joke; but now 2 regular complaint was laid before the Captain, of their unwarrantable behaviour, and of the clanger the mt^n were in of their lives; into which complamt the Cap- tain was under a neceffity of enquiring ; and upon i^nd- ing it juft, of conlining the ofFenders in irons. Whilj they were in this lituation, the articles of war htm\] read, it was found that the offence was of fuch a nature £S hardly to be determined without a reference to a court martial, in order to winch the two who appeared moft cufpable, were continued prifoners upon parole, and the third was cleared. After this bufmefs had en- grcffed the Captain's attention, he called the lhip*s crcv together, and after recounting the particidars of the voy- age, the hard'ihips they had met with, the fatigues they had undergone, and the cliearfulnefs they had conllant- ly lliewn in the difcharge of their duty, he gave them ta underiland, how much it would ftill more recommend tliem to the Lords of the Admiralty, if they would pre- fer ve a profound filence in the ports they had yet to pafs and might enter, with regard to the courfes, the dilboveries they had made, and every particular relative to this voyage ; and likcv;ife, after their return home, till they had their Lordlhips permilfion to the contrary; requiring, at the fame time, all thofe officers who hred, at of the n of the vith the , Cook's \ of this tabitants rds their .ges and V many las been a com- de, and id ber.u- iary re- ting our :re alfo at five- is ex- worth iQ took board, ^as or- teered, ^en the Ame- )n pre- tence tcnce of fifliing, whien their real defign was to wait tlie coming of the India (hips. The Dutron was there- fore ordered to fteer N. W. by W. or N. W. till to ihs northward of Aicenfion. With this fhip wc w^rc in company till the 24th, when we parted. A packet fgr the Admiralty was put on hoard, and (lie continued her courfe N. W. On Sunday the 28th, wc made the ifland of Afcenfion ; and on the evening anchored in Crofs Bay, in the N. W. fide, half a mile from the Ihore, in ten fathoms water. The Crofs- hill, fo called on account of a flag ftaif erc£ted upon it in form of a crofs, bore S. 38 d. E. and the two extreme points of the bay extended from N. E. to S. \V. We had fevcral fiftiing parties out every night, and got about twenty- four turtle weighing between four and five hundred weight each. This was our principal ohjernpriery be conlidcred as belon^inp; to t!ie latter.-- They are a group of iflaods, iituated in the Atlantic ocean, between 25 and 32 d. of welt longitude, and bf- twcen XI ^"'^ 4*^ J* f^^'*^* latitude, nine hundred milts well ol Portugal, and as manv call of Newfoundland. They are nine in number, viz. St Maria, St Mlgu(;l or St Michael, Terceira, St George, Graciola, Tayal, Pico, Flore3, and Corvo. Thefe illands were firfl: difcovered by fome riemifli Ihips in 14.39, and afterwards by the Portnguefe ia 1447, to whom they now belong. The two weltern- nioll were named Flores and Corvo, from the abundance of flowers on the one, and crows on the other. They are all fertile, and fubjed to a governor-general, who rciides at Angra in Terceira, which is alfo the feat of the bifliop, whole diocefe extends over all the Azores. The mcome of the latter, which is paid in wheat, a- mounts to about two hundred pounds (lerling a year. — On every ifland there is a deputy-governor, wiio direds the police, militia, and revenue; and a juiz, or judec, ia at »he head O'^ the law department, from whom lies an. appeal to a higher court ar Terceira, and from thence to the fupreme court at LiT3on. The natives of thefe illands are faid to be very 1 tigious. St Miguel, the largell, is one hundred miles in cir- cnmference, contains aboui twenty-nine thoufand inha- bitants, and is very fertile in wheat and flax. Its chief town is Panta del Gado. This ifland was twice ravaged by the Englilh in the time of Queen Elizabeth. Terceira is reckoned the chief ifland, on account of its having the bell harbour; and its chief town, named Angra, being the refidence of the governor-general and Vol. l.—N** 25. 6 I the 5ig6 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGB* the bilhop. The town contains a cathedral, five othef churches, ci[;lit convents, i'evcral coi'.rts of offices, &c\ and is defended by two forts. 1lie illand of Pico, fo called from a mountain of vafl height, prodmes excellent wine, cedar, and a valuable v;ood called telxos. On tlie fouth of the illand is the principnl harbour, called Villa das Lagens. The inhabitants of Flores having been many years .go infedled wiili the venereal difeafe by the crew of a SpaniOi man of war, that was wrecked upon their coaft, tiie evil, it is faid dill maintains its ground there, none of the inhabitants being free from it, as in Peru, and feme parrs of Siberia. Travellers relate, that no poifonous or venoinons 'animal is to be found in the Azores> and that if carried thitlier, ir will expire in a few hours. One tenth of all their produclicns belong to the king, and the article cf tobacco brings in a conliderable fum. The wine, called Fayal wine, is chiefly raifed in the ifland of Pico, which lies oppofite to layal. From eighteen to twenty thoufand pipes of that wine are made there yearly. All cf thefe illands enjoy a falubrious air, but are expofed to violent earthquakes, from which they have frequent- ly fuffered. ' Villa de Ilorta, the chief town in Fayal, like all tlie towns belonging to the l^ortuguefe, is crowded with religious buildings; tlicre being no lefs, in this little city, than tliree convents for men, and two for women. 1 lere are alio eight chvn'ches, including thofe belonging t ) the convents, and that in the Jefuits' college. This college is a nol)!e firudiure, and feated on an elevation in tlie pleafantcll part of the city. Since the expul- fion of that order, it has been fuffered to go to decay, and, in a few years, by the all confuming hand of time, may be reduced to a heap of ruins. The principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, with which the inliabitants fupply Pico, which in return fends them v^rine more than fufficient for their confumplion, great quantities being annually fliipped from De Horta (for CAPTAIN COOK, ,sp,COm)voy,GE ^ for at Pico there i, no rn. 1 r n '^^^^ »'? V ilia de Horta is fituatcd in 1 1 i ^-"V^-' "''"e. Tli to the edge of ,|,c tea I • f i'""^"'' "fa I'av c o ? one at cae\end o^ttow '^tf"t'^ ''X '-^^l.t , '»g along the feaftorc /"om -i" '""" -^''"-^^ extend; thee worts fcrve more forThew h"' '? ?^' ""'=■•• C •;P'ty tiicy ftonld be VXrod L '" '''^""•■^^ i ''"t ir is fhey heighten grcativ t x- ptil%""/",'^'^^-''>'; ^ ■'' ? yefy,beautifu7fi-om t '^ -o'^.' 7? ^ f ?'"^ "'v, wi.ich !|gmus ].pufes and ch.,rc .e'o w/r "' '^'"'"S '-"i'l^ th.^. that has any thi.ir^ ei hf t; vf • '"^ ""^ •inothcr edi - "'fnd it. It is nM the r?,n "'• " ?'' ^^'«'>0"t to rcco':"' I ;f' "g"efe, orSp" ii j:"to ;" :° 'Y^ ^^'^ --'ong the I Ins town the churches 'n,'' '''"'■' ^''ndows, \m ! , bnging to the Engl ft 'confil" h''"'"7 """« 'atei; ,'. f ■■ all others are latticed vki,.'"' '^'l' "i"'!r,;vs gl,;. ('■e a,,pearanccof prifons ' H r ^^ ^'j^"" '" "ur ens end of the Mand,^is thriwv or'r'^r ^^'l'^' ^' "'e c^ faces the weft en'd of Pi '^ ^^r^*^- ''"■'''' ^''i^h wo miles in diameter • and';,. '" /' ''-'■"■■crcle, aSout «hree-fo„rths of a mile T ^fe :* '• '^''-'^'^n'^er cpth of water from lix to t'v^lT, !' ^^"''y' »'«! -' E« tofea w h h^-erc told, theie LS™'"^' '*"^' former; and jpoint, called Porto Pierre w^, '?^'« '""und the S. W |™, and wherein a fl^;^' ' ".'^ '^^^ ^'^'feis are heive,) N one. We wer^ infxt j ,^ ^^'^ ^^ad of Fp-al -, •forthy of notice. Howe-er hfl '' •'"'« "ot ""- y, !° by captains of iC ihoni n'^"' ^7 ''^ ^"^^'1- ^^^Portugt^eie told ^S^^^^^i;^- >^' 988 CAPTAIN COOlCs SECOND VOYAGE. about half a league from the road, and in a line between that and the fouth fides of Pico, lies a concealed funken rock, covered with tv^enty-two fathom water, and on which the fea breaks froivi the fouth. He alfo gave us to underHiand that of all the Ihoals a])oiit thcfe iflcs that are laid down in our charts, and pilot books, only one has any exiftence, which lies between the iflands of St Mary and St Michael, called Hormingan. He fiirther informed us, that the diftancc between Fayal and the ifland of Flores, is forty- five leagues ; and that there runs a flrongtide between fayal and Pico,rhe flood feN ting to the N. E. and the ebb to the S. W. but out at fea, the dircdlion is eaft and weft. By various obferva- tions, the true longitude of this bay was found to be 28 d. 39 m. i8f f. On Wednefday the 1 9th, at four o'clock A. M. we failed out of the bay, and fteered for the weft end of St, George's ifland. Having pafTed this, we fliaped our I courfe E. f S. for the ifland of Tcrceira ; and after a | run of fourteen leagues, vve found ourfelves not more than one league from the weft end. We now pro- 1 Ceeded as expeditioufly as the wind would permit for England ; ai-^d on Saturday the 29th, we made the land! near Plymouth. On the following day, the 30th, we] caft anchor at Spithead, when Captain Cook, in com- pany with Meflj"s Wales, Forfters, riid Hodges, landed! at Portfmouth, and from thence Wx out for London.! The whole time of our abfence from England v^^as three! years and eighteen days ; and owing to the unboundedj goodnefs of an Almighty Prcferver, who indiilgentlyl moured our attempt, and feconded our endeavours,! notwithftanding the various changes of climates (and! they were as various as can be experienced) we loft only! one man by ficknefs, and three by other caufes. Even! the linglc circumftancc of keeping the fliip's companyj ir\ health, by means of the greatelt care and attenrionJ will make this voyage remarkable in the opinion otl every humane perlon ; and we truft the grand-end off ^his expedition, and the purpofes for which we wercj ffntj -«»5v-;'^»"^«»»fl CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 98^ fent into the fouthern liemlfphere were diligently ftnd fufficiently purfued. The Refolution made the circuit of the fouthern ocean, in a high latitude, and Captain Cook traverfed it infuch a manner, as to leave no room for a mere poflibility of there being a continent, unlefs near the pole, and confeqnently our of the reach of na- vigation. Hovvever,by having twice explored the tro- pical fea, the fituation of old difcovcries were deter- mined, and a number of new ones made ; fo that we flattered ourfelves, upon the whole, the intention of the voyage has, tliough not in every refpefl:, yet upon the whole, been fufficiently anfwcred ; and by having ex- plored fo minutely the fouthern hcmifpherc, a final end may, perhaps, be put to fearchiug after a continent, in that part of the globe, which has, of late years, and, in- deed, at times, for the two laft centuries, engrofled the attention of fome of the maritime powers, and been a fa- vourite theory among geographers of all ages. The probability of there being a continent, or large track of land, near the Pole, has been already granted ; and wc may have feen part of it. The extreme cold, the num- berlefs iflands, and the vaft floats of ice, give ftrength to this conjedure, and all tend to prove, that there mull be main land to the fouth ; but that this mud extend fartheft to the north, oppofite to the fouthern Atlantic and Indian oceans, we have already afTigned feveral reafons ; of which one is, the greater degree of cold in thefe feas, than in the PaciHc Ocean, under the fame parallels of latitude ; for in this laft ocean, the mer- cury in the thermomctei' feldom fell fo low as the freez- ing point, till we were in latitude 60 d. and upwards ; whereas in the other oceans, it fell as low in the latitude of C4 d. the caufe whereof we attributed to a greater quantity of ice, which extended farther north in the At- lantic and Indian oceans, than in the fouth Paciiic Sea ; and fuppofmg the ice to be lirft formed at, or near the land, of which we are fully perfuaded, it will be an un- deniable confequsncc, that the land extends farther ©orth. But what benefit can accrue from lands thus fit^atetl ,--3» ^9o CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOY^^GE. fituated, fhould they be difcovcrcd ? lands doomed to everlafting frigidnefs ; and whofe horrible and favage afpeft tio language or words can defcribc. Will any- one venture farther in fearch after fuch a country than our brave and fldlful Commander has done r Let him proceed, and juay the God of univerfal nature be his guide. We heartily wifli him fuccefs, nor will wc en- vy him the honour of his difcovery. It has been obferved, that the principal officers of the Refolution delivered their journals into the cuflody of Captain Cook ; and, on his arrival in England, Capt. Furneaux alfo put into his hands a narrative of what happened in the Adventure after her final fcparation fron;i the Refolution. We Ihall now lay before our rea- ders a complete narrative of Captain Furneaux's pro- ceedings in the Adventure, to whicli we ihall fubjoiu the improvements that have been made, refpedl'mg the means of preferving the health of our feamen, ?.nd par- ticularly thofe that were ufcd by Captain Quok in hi$ voyages. Fr CAPTAIN i»ft.v. ■«»V»«'''- *»v«|f* CAPTAIN FURNEAUX< Proceedings in the Mn From the Time he was fep enture. Parated from the R NATION R.SP.CTINO THE BOAT. CREW. November, we reeaineH^ t r! n. " Tliurfdav the m\\ of ojnce of cray.fifli and fni r »i ^i l "^"' "Canoes abun- "urOtaheite cloth, ^ails&l'o''' 'l^"^ *«hanged for gam returned, and «^Wet" ,1.^" * V'''' f'e ftorri 'ond time by aVioIentt Jfof tin? ""^'^^ "'°^« « '^- »aie ot wind, accompanied with heavy 992 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. heavy falls of fleet, which lafted two days ; fo that by this time our decks began to leak, our beds and bedding were wet, which gave many of our people colds ; and now we were moft of us complaining, and all began to de- fpair of ever getting into the Sound, or, which we had moft at heart, of joining the Refolution. We com- bated the ftorm till Saturday the 6th, when being to the north of the cape, and having a hard gale from S. W. we bore away for fome bay, in order to complete our wood and water, of both which articles we were at prefent in great v/ant. For fome days pafl: we had been at the allowance of one quart of water, and it was thought fix or ieven days more would deprive us even qf that fcanty pittance. On Tuefday the 9th, in lati- tude 38 d. 21 m. S. and in 178 d. 37 m. E. longitude, we came abreaft of Tblaga Bay, and in the forenoon an- chored in eleven fathoms water, (lifF muddy ground, which lays acrofs the hay for about two miles. This harbour is open from N. N. E. to E. S. E. neverthelefs, k affords good riding with a wefterly wind ; and here are regular foundings from five to twelve fathoms. Wood and water are eafily procured^ except when the winds blow hard eafterly, and then, at fuch times, which are but feldom, they throw in a great fea. The natives about tliis bay are the fame as thofe a* Qween Char- lotte's Sound, but more numerous, and have regular plantations of fweet potatoes, and other roots. They nave plenty of fiili of all forts, which we purchafed with nails, beads, and other trifles. In one of their ca- noes, we faw the head of a woman lying in ftate, adorned with feathers, and other ornaments. It had all the appearance of life, but, upon a nearer view, we found it had been dried ; yet, every feature was in due prefervation and ^)erfed. We judged it to have been the head of fome deceafed relative, kept as a relic. It was at an ifland in this bay where the Endeavour's peo- ple obferved the largelt canoe they met with during their whole voyage. It was, according to account, no lefs than fixty- eight feet and a half long, five broad, and CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 993 and three feet fix inches high : it had a (harp bottom, confiding of three trunks of trees hollowed, of which that in the middle was longeft : the fide planks were fixty-two feet long in one piece, and were ornamented with carvings, not unlike fillagree work, in fpirals of very curious workmanlhip, the extremities whereof were clofed with a figure that formed the head of the veflel, in which were two monftrous eyes of mother of pearl, and a large Ihaped tongue ; and as it defcendcd It ftill retained the figure of a monfter, with hands and feet carved upon it very neatly, and painted red. It had alfo a high peaked ftern, wrought in fillagree, and adorned with feathers, from the top of which two long ftreamers depended, made of the fame materials, which almoft reached the water. Frpm this defcription we might be tempted to fuppofe, thefe canoes to be the. veuels, and this to be the country, lying to the fouth, of which Quiros received intelligence at Taumaio ; and where Toabia faid they eat men, and had fuch largj Ihips as he could not defcribe. On Friday the 12th, having taken on board ten tons of water and \on^Q wood, we fet fail for the Sound ; but we were icarcely out when the wind began to blow dead hard on the fhore, fo that, not being able to clear the land on either tack, we were obliged to return to the bay, where we arrived the next morning, the . 1 3th ; and having an- chored, we rode out a heavy gale of wind at E. by S. attended with a very great fea. We now began to fear the weather had put it out of our power to join our con- fort, having reafon to believe fhe was in Charlotte Sound, the appointed place of rendezvous, and by this time ready for fea. Part of the crew were now employ- ed in flopping leaks, and repairing our rigging, which was in a moft (battered condition. On the 14th and 15th, we hoided out our boats, and fent them to increafe our ftock of wood and water ; but on the laii day the furf rofe fo high, that they could not make the land. On Tuefilay the 16th, having made the (hip as fnug as poffible, we unmoored at three Vol. I.— N° 25. 6 K o'clock M\ ¥•' '\, 994 CAPTAIN COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. o'clock A. M. and before fix got under way. Ffom this time to the 28th, we had nothing but tempeftuous weather, in which our rigging was almoft blown to pieces, and our men quite worn down with fatigue. On Monday the 2pth, our water being nearly ex- pended, we were agam reduced to the fcanty allowance of a quart a man per diem. We continued beating backward and forward till the 30th, when the weather became more moderate ; and having got a favourable wind, we were fo happy at laft as to gain with fafety our defired port. After getting through Cook's Strait's, we caft anchor at three o clock, P. M. in Queen Char- lotte's Sound. We faw nothing of the RefoTution, and Began to doubt her fafety ; but upon having landed, we difcovered the pla|e where f^e had pitched her tents ; and upon further examination, on an old (lump of a tree, we read thefe words cut out *' Look under- neath.** We complied inftantiy with thefe inftrudions, and, digging, foon found a bottle, corked and waxed down, wherein was a letter from Captain Cook, ia- forming us of their arrival at this place on the 3d in- ftant, and their departure on the 24th, and that they intended fpending a few days in the entrance of the Straits to look for us. We immediately fet about the neceffary repairs of the fhip, with an intention of get- ting her to iea as foon as poflible. On the ift of De- cember, the tents were carried on (hore, the armourer's forge put ui>, and every preparation made for the reco- very of the lick. The coopers were difpatched on fhore to mend the caiks, and we began to unftow the hold to get at the bread ; but upon opening the calks, we found a great quantity of it entirely fpoiled, and mod part fo damaged, that we were obliged to bake it over again, which unavoidably delayed us fome time. At intervals, during our ftay here, the natives came on board as ufual with great familiarity. They generally brought fi(h, or whatever they had to barter with us, and feem- ed to behave with great civility ; though twice in one night they came to the tents with an intention of fteal- fa^wj^ CAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGE. 995 ing, but were difcovered before they had accompliflied their defign. A party alfo came aown in the night of the 13th, and robbed the aftronomer's tent of every thing they could carry away. This they did f > quietly, that they were not fo much as heard, or fufpeded, till the aftronomcr getting up to make an obfervation, mif- fed his inftruments, and charged the centincl with the robbery. This brought on a pretty fevere altercation, during which they fpied an Indian creeping from the tent, at whom Mr Bailey fired, and wounded him; neverthelefs he made a (hift to retreat into the woods. The report of the gun had alarmed his confederates, who, inftead of putting off from the fhore, fled into the woods, leaving their canoe, with moft of the things th^t had been ftolen, aground on the beach. This petty larceny, it is probabje, laid the foundation of that dread- ful cataftrophe which foon after happened, Friday the 17th, at which time we were preparing for our departure, we fent out our large cutter, man- ned with feven feamen, under the command of Mr John Rowe, the fir ft mate, accompanied by Mr Wood- houfe, midfliipman, and James Tobias Swilley, the car- penter's fervant. They were to proceed up the Sound to Grafs Cove, to gather greens and celery tor the fhip's company, with orders to return that evening ; for tlie tents had been ftruck at two in the afternoon, and the (hip made ready for failing the next day. Night coni-r ing on, and no cutter appearing, the Captain and others began to exprefs great unealmefs. They fat up all night, in expedation of their arrival, but to no purpofe. At day break, therefore, the Captain ordered the launch to be hoifted out, She was double manned, and unde? the command ofourfecond lieutenant, Mr Burney, ac- companied by Mr freeman, mafter, the corporal of marines with five private men, all Well armed, and having plenty of amn^unition, two wall pieces, and three days provifions. They were ordered firft to look into the call bay, then to proceed to Grafs Cove, and if npthing vms w> oe feen ox l^eard of the cutter there, they I I 11: 99<5 CAPTAIN COOK's SECOND VOYAGE. . were to go farther up the cove, and return by the weft fhore, Mr Rowc having left the (hip an hour before the time propofed for his departure, we thought his curiofity might have carried him into Eaft Bay, none of our people having eve|; been there, or that ibme acci- dent might have happened to the boat ; for not the leaft fufpicion was entertained of the natives, our boats having been higher up, and worfe provided. Mr Bur- ney returned about eleven o'clock the fame night, and and gave us a pointed dcfcription of a moft horrible fcene indeed ; the fubftance, and every material parti- cular of whole report, are contained in the following relation, which includes the remarks of thofe who at- < tended Mr Burney. On Saturday the iStJi, purfuant to our orders, we "left the (hip, aoout nine o'clock in the morning. Hav- ing a light breeze in our favour, we. loon got round Long Illand, au. Long Point. We continued failing and rowing for Eaft Bay, keeping clofe in (hore, and ' exaniining with our glanes every cove on the larboard • fide, till near two o'clock in the afternoon, at which ; time we ftopped at a beach on our left going up Eaft Bay, to drels our dinner. While we were cooking we faw an Indian on the oppofite fhorc running along a beach to the head of the bay ; and when our meat was juft done, we perceived a company of the natives feem- ingly very bufy ; upon feeing which, we got imme- diately into the boat, put off, and rowed quickly to the place where the fava^es were aflembled, which was at ■ the head of this reach* ; and here, while approaching, we difcerned one of their fettlements. As we drew near fomeofthe Indians came down upon the rocks, and • waved for us to depart ; but perceiving we difregarded them, "ihey altered their geftures, and wild notes. At this place we obfcrved fix large canoes hauled upon the • beach, moft of them being double ones ; but the num- ber of people were in proportion neither to the fize of thefe canoes, nor the number of houfes. Our little 9 ompany,confifting of the corporal and hiafive marines, , . ■ headc4 CAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGE. 997 headed by Mr Burney, now landed, leaving their boat's crew to guard it. Upon our approach the natives fled with great precipitation. We followed them cloi'ely to a little town, which we found deferted ; but while wc were employed in fearching their huts, the natives re- turned, makmg a fliew of refiftance j but fome trifling prefents being made to their chiefs, they were very foon jpippeafed. However, on our return to the boat, the favages again followed us, and fome of them threw flones. As we came down.to iVe beach, one of the In- dians had brought a bundle of hepatoos, or long fpears, but feeing Mr Burney looked very earneftly at him, he walked about with teeming unconcern. Some of his companions appearing to be terrified, a few trifles were given to each of them. From the place where we now landed, the bay feemed to run a full mile, N. N. W. where it ended in a long fandy beach. After dinner we took a view of the country near the coaft with our glaflfes, but faw not a canoe, or figns of inhabitants, after which we fired the wall pieces as fignals to the cut- ter, if any of the people fhould happen to be within hearing. We now renewed our fearch along the eaft (hore ; and came to another fettlement where the In- dians invited us aftiore. We enquired of them about the cutter, but they pretended ignorance. They feem- ed very friendly, and fold us fome fifti. At about five o'clock in the afternoon, and within an hour after we had left this place, we opened a fmall bay adjoining to Grafs Cove, and here we faw a large double canoe, jull hauled upon the beach, with two men and a dog. The two favages on feeing us ap-^ proach, inftantly fled, which made us fufpedl, it was ^ nere we ihould have fome tidings of the cutter. Oa ' landing, and examining the canoe, the firft thing we faw therein were one of our cutter's rullock ports, and fome fhoes, one of which, amon^the latter, was known to belong to Mr Woodhoufe. A piece of flefh was found by one of our people, which at firll was thought (0 \>Q fogie of the fait meat belonging to the cutter's :» .1 : ^ (J 998 CAPTAIN COOK't SECOND VOYAGE. men, but upon examination, we fuppofed it to be dog's flefh ; a mod horrid and undeniable proof foon cleared up our doubts, and convinced us we were among no - other than cannibals j for, advancing farther on the beach, we faw about twenty bafkets tied up, and a dog eating a piece of broiled flefh, which, upon examining, we iuipeded to be human. We cut open the bafkets, . fome of which were full of roafted flelh, and others pf fern root, which feryes them for bread. Searching others we found more {hoes, and a hand, which was immediatel)^ known to have belonged to Thomas Hill, one of our fore-caftle men, it having been tatowed with the initials of his name. We now proceeded a little way in the wo6d», but faw nothing eife. Our next deiign was to launch the canoe, intending to deftroy her ; luit feeing a great fmoke afcending over the neafefl hill, we made all poflfible hade to be with thein before fun-fet. At half after fix we opened Grafs Cove, where we faw one lingle, and three double canoes, and a gneat many natives aflembled on the beach, who retreated to a fmall hill, within a (hip's length of the water-fide, where they ftood talking to us. On the top of the high land, beyond the woods, was a large fire, irom whence all the way dovvn the hill, the place was thronged like a fair. When we entered the cove, a mufquetoon was fired at one of the canoes, as we imagined they might be full of men lying down ; for they were all anoat, but no one was feen m them. Being doubtful whether their retreat proceeded from fear, or a defire to decgy lis into an ambufcade, we were determined not to be furprifed, and therefore running clofe in (hore, we drop- ped the grappling near enough to reach them with our puns ; but at too great a diftance to be under any ap- prchenfions from their treachery. The favages on the little hill kept their ground, hallooing, and making figns for us to landl At thefe we now took aim, re- folving to kill. as many of them as our bullets would reach 5 yet it was fome tii^e before we could diflodge them» CAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGE. -999 them. The firft volley did not feem to afFed them much ; but on the fecond, they began to fcranible a- way as faft as they could, fome howling, and orhers limpine. We continued to fire as long as we could fee the lead glimpfe of any of them through the bulhcs;. Among thele were two very robuft men, who main- tained their ground, without moving an inch, till they found themlelves forfaken by all their companions, and then, difdaining to run, they marched off with great compofure and deliberation. One of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there, or crawled away on lils hands and feet ; but the other efcaped without an* ap- parent hurt. Mr Burney now improved their panic, and, fupported by the marines, leaped on fhorc, and purfued the fugitives. We had not advanced far from the water-fide, on the beach, before we met with two bundles of celery, which had been gathered by the cut- ter's crew. A broken oar was ftuck upright in the ground, to v»»hich the natives had tied their canoes ; whereby we were convinced this was the fpot where the attack had been made. We now fearched all along the back of the beach, to fee if the cuuer was tliere, but, inflead of her, the moil horrible fcene was prefeiii ed to our view, that was ever beheld by any European ; for here lay the hearts, heads, and lungs of fevcral of our people, with hands and limbs, in a mangled condition, iome broiled and fome raw ; but no other parts of their bodies, which made us fufpe Vv-as, chey liad toimd out, that our guns were not infallible ; il:ey had leeu tliem mifs. tire; aud they knevv, tiiat when difcharged, diey mu(t be loaded before they eould a^aiii do any exc- Vol. L— N«'26. * '6 L cutiun, i <> 10C2 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAai!. cutio:'!, which intervnl of time they coTild take proper advantnge of. From feme circumilAnces wt concluded, th:-it after their fucccfs, there was a genenil meeting on the call fide of t]ie Sound. We know the IndiansOf Shag Cove were there, by a long fingle canoe, which i'oiiie of our people with Mr Rowe had feen four days before in Shag Cove. After this (liocking affair, we were detained four days in the Sound bY contrary winds, in which time we fiw none of the inhabitants. Jt is a little remarkable, that Captain Furneauxhad been feve- ral times uj) Grals Cove with Captain Cook, where they faw no inhabitants, arid no other figns of any, but a fevv dcCcrtcd villages wjiich appeared as if they had not been "occupitd for many years ; and yet, in Mr Buruey's opi- nion, when he entered the fame cove, there could not he iefs than fifteen hundred, or two thoufand people. Had they bcjn apprized of his coming, v;e doubt not they would fiave attacked him ; and feeuig not a probu- biliry remuincd of aiiy of our people bciiig alive, from thefe eoniideration!-, \vc thought it would be imprudent to renew tlie (< arch, and fend a boat up again. On Thurfdiy, the 23d of December, we departed -'J from, and rriade fiil out of the Sound, heartily vexed at the unavoidable delays we had expcric ^.ced, io con- trary to our fanguin:''wiflies. We flood to the eaft- wardjio clear the (traits, which we happily efi'edled the fame evening, but we were baffled for tv/o or three days with light winds before we could clear the coaO:. hi this interval of time, the chells and effedts of the ten men who had been murdered, were fold before the maf^, according to an old fea cuiloni. We now fleered S. S. K. till we got into the latitude of 56 d. S. " At th.is time we had a great fvv{>jl from the louthward, the winds hlevv Itrong from S. W. the weather began to be very cold; the fea made a continual breach over tlio fhip, which was low and deep laden, and by her continual ilraining, very few of our fcamcn were dry either on d."ck or in bed. In the latitude of 58 d. St and in 21;) d. E. longitude, wc fell in witli fume ice, and (tandin;^' to tiie niot fea! a Cj') 1 1 iVoiii wcrt. CAPTAIN cooK'j 5;eco:«jd voyage. io®3 to tlie e:ifl:, fdw every tlay ii>orc or kTs. V/e faw alio the birds coininon in this va(l ocean, our or.Iy ccir.pa- irions, aaci at tiaics \vc met vvitii a wluilc or porpoiie,a leal or two. and a lew ;)w'n|.v-il".i;'. On tlie loth of January 1774, ^^'^ arrived a!)rcafl of Cipc Tiovn, in the latiiiul.' u|- oi {), ,S. auci in the rim from Gape Palllier in New Zcaliiud to this c:'.')e, v.-j were litti'j more dj^ari a iu(<:ith, wi.idi is one hundred ?ml tweiuy-orie degrees rf lon^lliid-, in that ijioit time. The wiiids were tonlinuaily v.'cfieily, 'Aiih a p;re»;t feu. H'iving opened iorne eafl.s of [.Tale and Ilc.:r,\ve fjund them very much dam:)geJ ; for which redon we rhonglit it inoft prudent to m^ke lor t'le Q^pe of Oood Hope, intending firR to get into i:ie latirude an;! longlruJo of C;^pe Circunicilion. When to the caliv.ard of Cape ILirn, we found the niuds can.ie move from the north, an' not fo ihong and frequent from the wcRwarJ, as iifual, which brought on thick ioggy weather ; io that for leveral days together, we were not able to n\ake an obfervation, tlie lur, al! the time not being vifible. 'I'his weather lafted above a niontli, in v>^!iich tiriie we ^Vv'ere among a great many iOands of ice, wliich kept us eonJlantly on the look out, for fear of running foul of them. Our people now began to complain of colds and pains in their limbs, on account of which we hauled to the northward, making the lati^ule of 54 d. S. We then ilccrcd to the eal't, with an intention ci fmding the land laid dov>m by M. !3ouvet. As wc advanced to the eaft, the nights began to be t'ark, and the illands of ice be- came more numerous anj dangerous. On the ^d of Marclu we were in the ladtude of Baiivct's dilcovery^ and half a league to calf ward of it ; liiit not perc;eiving tlic leaf t fign of land, either now, or iiivce* we attained tlfis parallel, v^e gave over a i'urther larch aiter it, and hauled away to the northward. In our l.if} truck tu the ibuthward, v»'c were within a few uogree? of tlie longitude aHigruxl for Bouvct'sd:'covery, and about three degrees of tne fouthward ; ii luerefoio there (hoiild be any land thercabcut, it mull be a very , Q L 2 iacoa- 'n r., T004 CAPTAIN cook's SECOND VOTAGE. inconfiderable ifland ; or rather, we are inclined to think, a mere deception from the ice ; for, in our firft fetting out, we concluded we had made difcoverics of land fe- veral t'mes, which proved to be only high ifiands of. ice, at the back of large fields, which M. Bouvet might cafily miftake for land, efpecially as it was thick foggy weather. On the 1 7th, in the latitude of 48 d. 30 m. S. and in 14 d. 26 m. E. longitude, we faw two large iflands of ice. On the 18th, wc made the land of the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 19th, anchored in Table I^ay. Here we found Commodore Sir Edward Hughes, with his Majefty's (hips the Saliibury and Sea Horfe. We fainted the garrilon with thirteen guns, and the Com- modore with an equal number ; the latter returned the fiill complement, and the former, as ufual, fainted us with two guns lefs. At this place Captain J'urneaux left a letter for Captain Cook ; and here we remained to re- lit the fliip, refrelh the peoj>le, &c. &c. till the 1 6th of April, when we hoilled fail for England ; and on the 14th of July, to the great joy of all our failors, anchor- ed at Spithead. RULES mm^mmi^mm'm^mmmiwmn R U E S FOR PRESERVING t^e Health of Seamen in long Voyages^ AND THE Means employed by Capt. Cook, to that End, DURING HIS Yoyage Round ihc World^ hi Ins Mujeflys Ship ihe Refoktion, BEFORE we enter upon this fubjt^d, which hath for its object the Caving the lives of men, it will be neceflary to fay fomething on tliat diforder, to which feamen are peculiarly fubjed ; and to confider how many have periftied by marine difeafes, before any con- fiderable improvements were made in the means either of their prevention or cure. The ficknefs moil dcn:ruc- tive to manners, and againft the dreadful attacks of which prefervatives have been contrived, is the Icurvy. This is not that diftemper erroneoufly fo called among landfmen : but belongs to a clafs of difeafes totally dit- ferent from it. So far is the common-received opinion from being true, which affirms, " There are few confti- tytions ahogether free from a fcprbutic taint," that, un- lefs ioo5 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECON^D VOYAGE. Icfs among fallors, and others circumflanced like them,- more particularly with refpeffc to thofe vvlio life a fait nnd putrid diet, and efpecially if they live in foul air .'.iKfunclcr.aiinefs, \vc are inclined to think there are I'cw diforders lefs frequent. Ncr do be believe, which 13 another vulj^ar notion, that the fea air is the caufe oi tl.e fcurvy ; iince on board a (lup, cleardinefs, ventila- tion, and frclh provihons would preicrve from it, and upon the fea coaft, free from marflies, the inhabitants iii'c not liable to that diforder, though frequently breath- ing the au* from the fea. We Oiould for theie reafons rather afcribe the fcurvy to other caufes ; and we believe it to be a beginning corruption of the whole habit, iiird- lar to that of every animal fubftancc when deprived of life. This has been verified by the fymptoms in the fcorbutic fick, and by tiie appearances in their bodies after dfeath. With refped: to the putrifying quality of fea ialt, we may remark, that ialted meats, atter fome time, become in reality putrid, though they may con- tinue long palatable by means of the Ialt ; and common fait, fup poled to be one of the flrongeil prefervatives iVom corruption, is at bell: btit an indiifercnt one, even in a large quantity ; and in a fmali one fo far from im- j>edinr^ putrefaftion, it rather promotes that procefs in the body. lyjinG are of opinion, that the fcurvy is much owing to inrcnie cold, which checks perfpiration ; aftd hence, iky they, arife the endemic diftempers of the northern nations, particularly of thefe around the Bal- tic. The faift is partly true ; but v/e are doubtful about the caufe. In thele countries, by reafon of long and fcvere winter, the cattle, being dcllitute of pafture, can harely live, and are therefore unlit for ufe ; fo that the people, for tlieir provilions, during that feafon, are cjbliged to kill them by the end of autumn, and to fait them for above half the year. Tliis putrid diet then, on which they raufl fo long fublili, ieems to be the chief Iburce from whence the trd'«:Mi"e orjtfmates. And if we confider, that the lowelt clafs of people in the north have few or no greens nor fruit cc de lat Ti dci oth ial ufi . /='^P^-^^^ coo... secoWb vov.c. jjTiit m vviater, little cr m f ^' '""^^ iivein damp ton LT-f-.'^^^^^^ liquors in? " <)«•« arc «r>acqnain',.;iVt ''''■-''•'' "''^^ '"^ f ""•■' other reafon c.ia bo .ffl^ ',,,;, '"'7'.= '"■• whic.?, ni; /aited meat,, nor Indec fiVr',, ,"" '■'"-■"■ '^c^'fi' fa ir 'cUom (arte vegctS ' kIkTh ^''-■^^^'^i^^'^.'e, ^f , .' verr provinces, |;orderinro,r'^ "^''^■'"- '^« in lU Ijread, but fcarcely a y '^^^J] ? ''"' - ^'■'!>ere the,; m.' 'hey are as much troubled ,vi,|' I f "' '^''f"' " e.;rr other country. But ha-e we J" ''""^ '''» '" *"•/ th;it tho fate improvcn cnr-^n '' T"''^' i^' "''Ktv/ and htuLand-ry, by ex'aidl i'. h'""?"?!'';"- gudeui !' to the remoteft VJts cfE^ r;?l"' t'"''!''^"^' itdincr, e of people, begi,: ihni]Ky^i^^'I^:°'^^^ 'on-c.'l .laf ! complaint, cypn in tt.^A • "'" ^''^'T'cncv ofi' ™f b,vfand-fi,^.'''t;;f Vj-wbereli it ,L:t^ "If- who bve on Ibore "or la .1 ''«".f i^'^'o^l, t!,:u «'irh the fciirvv, thonri, l '^"''""«'1' will bo aKdi,.! -.n/i"ed to lak'm u^ „ '?f '.T^-y ''^-^f '^-'er b tn vith any inttances eve nf '"' ^'-^ ^'^'^ "ot wk ■"■"•hed a mar/hv a'ir, 'n- V -;';T"''^' '."='' "'''" ^'^vc «'■ ^mon... thole wi.o wanted ^v'-,""'^"-"^ P'""e houfe damp, by reafon of a circumam- bient moat, and the bounds allotted for taking the air were fo fmall, and in wet weatl\er fo fwamoifli, that the men feldom were difpofed to quit the lionle. A repre- fentation having been made of thefe deficiencies, in confequence thereof the prifdners were fupplied with roots and greens for boiling in their broth, the fick were quartered out in a dry fituation, where they had the li- berty of air and exercife ; and by thefe means they all quickly recovered. Wc think it probable that the icurvy fooner appeared among thele 11 rangers, from their having been taken at i'ca, and, therefore, from their diet, they were more difpoied to the diieafe. Such is tbe nature and caufe of that ficknefs moft deitrudive to fa dors. Let us now take a tranfient view of its dreatful ra- vages ; and by a contrail between the old and prefent times, we ihall fee, more evidently, the importance and value of the means propofed, and which have been moll liicceisfully employed by Captain Cook, for its prevention and cure. In the firft voyage for the efta- - bliQiment of the Eall-India Company, a fquadron was ' fitted out, and under the command of Lancafler (who was then fliled general) in the year 1601. The equij)- ment conlidcd ol four lliips, with four hundred and eighty men on board, Three of ihofe velfels were lo v^eakened by the fcurvy, when they had got only three degrees beyond the cquinodlial line, that the merchants, v.'ho had embarked oa this adventure, were obliged to do duty as common faiiors. At lea, on flicre, and at Soldania, the then place of rcfreihment on this fide the C^ipe of Good Hope, there died in all, near a fourth part of their complement, and that before they had pro- ceeded halfway to the place of their defiination. Sir William Hawkins, vv^ho lived in that age, an intelli- gent and brave lea oflicc, has left it upon record, " that in twenty years, during wiiich he had ufed the fea, he .could give an account often thoufand mariners who had been m CAPTAIN gOOK»8 SECOND VOYAGE. 1009 been confumed by the fcurvy alon.." If tben in the very infancy of'the naval power of Knprjand, fo many were dellroycd by that bane of fea-firing men, what jnuil have !)cen the havotk made lincc tliat early date, while our Hect has been gradually iiicrcafinfr, licvv ports for commerce opening, and yet fo little advancement made in the nautical part of medicine. And within our own remembrance, when it might have been ex- fpeded that whatever tended to aggrandize the naval power of Great Britain, and to extend her commerce, would have received the higheft improvement : yet, even at thefe latter dates, we Ihall find few meafurcs were adopted to preferve the health of fcamen, more than had been known to our uninformed anceflors. The fuccefsfuK but mournful expedition of Commo- dore Anfon, afterwards an admiral, and lord, aftbrds a melancholy proof of the truth of this afTcrtion. After having palled the Straits of La Maire, the iburvy began to r:^,,e violently in this litrle fquadron ; and by the tiiir.^ the Centurion had advanced but a little way into the South Sea, forty- feven Tailors died of it in that (hip ; nor were there fcarcely any on board, who liad not, in feme degree, been touched witli the diftemper, though they had not at that time been quite eight months from England. In the nintli month, vvhen abreall of the ifland of Juan Fernandez, the Ccnruriou loll double that nuinbcr ; and fuch an amazing Iwift progrefs did the mortality make in this Tingle lhi[), that before they landed on that ifland llie had buried two-luiiulred of lier; hands ; not being able to niuiler any more in a watch, capable of doing duty, than two quarter mailers, and iixforemaft men. This was the coriJirionof one of the three (hips which reached that ifltiiul ; and the other two fuiicred in proportion. Nor 'did the dellroyer llop here his cruel ravages, bTir, after a j'ew months refplte, renewed his attacks ; for the func difcaic broke out atVclh, making fuch havock, that before the Centurion (in which were the whole iurviving crews ot the three Ihips) had reached the iiland of Tinian, there died Ibme- Vol, I. N"^. 26. . 6 M times M ii loio CAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGE. times eight or ten in a day, fo that when they had been only two years on their voyage, they liad loft a larger proportion than of four in five of their original num-t Der, and all of them after having entered the South Sea, of the fcurvy : but we apprehend this was not ftridly the cafe ; but that the caule of fo great a mortality was a peftilential kind of diftemper, diilinguifhed on land by the name of the jail, or hofpital fever ; and, indeed, in the obfervations made by two of Commodore Anfon's furgeons, it is affirmed, tnat the fcurvy at that time was accompanied with putrid fevers : however it is not ma- terial, whether the Icurvy, or the fever combined with it, were the caufe of thc' deftrudive mortality in Lord ' Anfon's fleet, fmce it muft be acknowledged both arofe from foul air, and other fources of putrefadlion ; and which may now, in a great meafure, be obviated, by various means fallen upon fmce the time of that expedi- tion : and this naturally leads us in due order, to take a view of the principal articles of provifion, and other methods employed by Captain Cook. We fhall men- tion all fuch articles as were found the moft ufeful ; and in this lift of prefer vative ftores, fhall begin with I. Sweet Wort. This was diftributed, from one to three pints a day, or in fuch a proportion as the fur- gcon judged neceffary, not only to thofe men who had maniieft fymptoms of the fcurvy, but to fuch alfo as were judged to be moft liable to it. Beer hath always been efteemed one of the beft antifcorbutics ; but as that derived all its fixed air from the malt of which it was made, this was thought to be preferable in long voyages, as it would take up lefs room than the beer, and keep longer found. Experience has fmce verified the theory ; and in the medical journal of Mr Patten, furgeon to the Refolution, we find the following paf- fage, which fully corroborates the teftimony of Capt, Cook and others, in favour of fweet wort, as being thc beft antifcorbutic medicine yet known. ** I have found (obferves this gentleman) the wort of the utmoft fervice in all fcorbutic cafes during the voyage. As manv took no it . w th( ki fee CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. loii Hook it by way of prevention, few cafes occurred where it had a fair trial ; but thefe, however, I flatter my felf, . will be fufficient to convince every impartial perfon, it is the beft remedy hitherto found out for the cure of the fea fcurvy ; and I am well convinced, from what I have feen the wort perform, and from its mode of operation, that if aided by portable foup, four-krout, fugar, fago, and currants, the fcurvy, that maritime peftilence, will feldom or never make its appearance among a (hip's crew, on the longell voyages ; proper care with regard to cleanlinefs and provifions being obferved." It hath been conftantly obferved by our fea furgeons, that in long cruizes or diftant voyages, the fcurvy never makes its alarming appearance, fo long as the men have their full allowance of fmall beer ; but that when it is all ex- pended the diforder foon prevails : it were therefore to be wiflied, that our fhips would afford fufficient room for this wholefome beverage. But, we are informed, the Ruffians, both on board as well as on land, make the following middle quality between wort and fmall beer. They take ground malt and rye meal in a certain proportion, which they knead into fmall loaves, and bake in the oven. Thefe they infufe occafionally in a proper quantity of warm water, which begins fo foon to ferment, that in the fpace of 24 hours, their brewage is completed, and a fmall, brifk, acetous liquor produced, to which they have given the name of quas. Dr Moun- fey, who lived long in Ruffia, in writing to his friends in England, obfervcs, that the quas is the common and falutary drink both of the fleets and armies of that em- pire, and that it was peculiarly good. The fame gen- deman having vifited the feveral prifons in the city of Mofcow, was furprized to hnd it full of malefadors, but iiiore fo when he coulu difcover no fever among them, nor learn that any acute diftemper, peculiar to jails, had ever been known there. He obferved that fome o£ thole places for confinement had a yard, for the ufe of the prifoners, but in others without that advantage, they were not fickly ; fo that he could aflign no other reafon 6 M 2 for .0>>.^Si', IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^ % 1.0 I.I I^IM |25 us U 140 2.2 2.0 L8. IL25 iu MJ£ Hiotographic Sciences Corporation '<3 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 iV ^ '^ ^ <^ °^^:^" ■^^ ,n, and I not fo there is can be ley will ^at oats lade by c. a 74 s crew, it occa- north, It meal pon it,' to ta(\e ich, in about ■ f'rotn ^ of a i dealt and lough V, not trotn only )eing could d air y of lonly have iting or a lied, thct lAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGE. 1013 other juhftitutes may he lonnd very ferviceaM^; as dis- tilled prater^ acidulated with the fplrit of fea fait, in tlie propcfrtion of. only ten drops to a quart ; or with the weak'fpirit of vitriol, thirteen drops to the fame mea- fure, jwhich may be given to thofe who are threatened- withihe fcurvy, at leaft three quarts of this liquor daily, to hedrank with difcretion, as they (hall think proper. The fixed air rebounds in wine, and perhaps no vegeta- ble fubftance is more replete with it than the juice of the grape. If we join the grateful tafte of wine, we muft rank it the firft in the lift of ahtifcorbmic liquors. ^ Cyder is alfo rxcellent, 'with other vinous produ<3:iou3 y' , or fruit ; indeed this falutary fixed air is contained more or lefs in all fermentable liquors, and begins to oppoi'e S/ putrefadion as fpon as the working, or inteftine mo- ^ tion commences. ' • II. The next article of ext^five iiife, was Spur-krouf, ^ (four cabbage) a food of u.niverlHl repute in ^ernjiany. Its fpontaneous fermentation produces that acidity. wlijch '[■ makes it agreeable* to the talle of all who eat it. The^ RefQlution had ^ large quantity of this wHolefome vege- ^ iibtefooi^jn board, 2.nd it fpoils not by keeping : In the f-\ '^judgment of Captain Cook, four-krout is highly anti- '^ fcorbiitic. The allowance for each man, when at fea, • .(' waS: a pound, ferved twice a week, or oftencr, as was thought neceffary. Some of the diftinguiftied medical > writers of our times, tiave difapproved of the ufe of cabbage as an antifcorbutic ; notwithilanding the higli ) encomiums heftowed upon it by the ancients, (witntfs • ' what Cato the Elder, and Pliny the naturalill, fay on the j ' fubjeO,) and although it hath had the fandtion of tlic experience of nations, for many pall ages ; and by ex- periments laid before the Royal Society, by fome of our eminent phyficians, it has been dcinonUrited, that this' vegetable, with the red of rlie {"uppofed alcalelcents, arc ^ really acefcents ; and thattlie fcurvy is never owing to acidity, but to a, fpecics of putrefadion j that very caufe of which the ill-grouniled clals ox alcalefcents was fup- pofed tQ be a promoter. III. Portable fm I014 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGf. . HL ^Portable Soup was another article with wljich the Refoliition was plentifully fupplied. An ounce If o each man, or fuch other quantity as circumftances pointed out, was boiled in their peafe daily, three days ii^ every week ; and when vegetables were to be had it was boil- ed with them. Of this were made feveral nourifliing mefles, which occafioned the ^rew to eat a greater Quantity of vegetables than they would otherwiie have one. This broth being freed from ail fat, and having by long boiling evaporated the moft putrefcent parts of the meat, is reduced to the confiftence of a glue, which in efie£): it is, and will, like other glues, in a dry place, keep found for many years. 1 V. The Rob 01 Oranges and Lemons, which the iurg?on made ufe of in many cafes, with great fuccefs. CapT. Cook, it has been bbferved, did not much rely on thefe acids as a prefcrvative againft the fcurvy ; for "which the following reafon has been affigned by one ^ of our moft eminent phy fical profeflbrs. Thefe prepa- rations being only fent out upon triil, the furgeon of the Ihip was told how much he might give for a dofe,with- out ftridtly limitting the quantum. The experimei>t was made with the quantity fpecified, but with fo littSe fuccefs, that judging it not prudent to lofe more time, he fet about the cure with the wort alone, of the effica- cy of which he was fully convinced ;^ while he referved the robs for other purpofes ; more paitfcularly for cc'ds, when to a large draught of warm "^/ater, with fome ipirits and fu^ar, he added a fpoonful of one of thqfn, and with thele ingredients made a grateful fudorific that anfwered his intention. To which we may add, as worthy of notice, that as they had been reduced to a fmall proportion of their bulk by evaporation, it is pro- bable they were much weakened, and that with their aqueous particles they had, by the fire, loft not a little of their aerial. If therefore a f irther trial of thefe juices were to be made, they fliould be fent to fea purified and entire in cafks, agreeable to a propofal fent in to the Ad- miralty fome years ago, by a?i oeverthelefs, when there is no preflin|all, iii^^i^i^ our brave, hardy mariners to be inifeed i%SSi^i$^^0^^^^ uninterrupted reft as our com m [la- ^direra I Indeed it is the practice of all good offiis to expofe their men as little to wet weather as pcMc ; and we doubt not but they will pay attention twhat was made an eflential point with our humanelom- mander. In the torrid zone he (haded his peoplfroin the fcorching rays of the fun by an awning or his deck ; and in his courfe under the fouthem • pof cir- cle, he provided for each man what the failbnalled their Magellan jacket, made of a fubftantial yollen ftufF, with the addition of a hood for coverin their eads ; nn fuch edirafd* ^ late flls oa lifiiifed, ; to oily sQnp- 1 asoni on my wnay oman- , inbad to j-ee at try on ty ^eyaii W,by lie lis nfffis. ^, edld ^ lykl iihba- itfced J I'- ll la- i/sto ile ; ^hat Dm- roin his dr- illed lien heir ds; lAPTATN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 1017 hear and this garb they found mofl comfortable for woing in rain and fnow, and among the locfe ire in higjouthern latitudes. If Rome decreed a civic crown to rn who faved the life of a lingie" citizen, what hotlary rewards, what praifes are due to that hero, wllontrived, and employed, fuch new means to fave m J ; means, whereby Britannia will no more lament, onle return of her (hips from didant voyages, the lois of |r bold fons, her intrepid mariners, who by braving evt danger, have fo liberally contributed to the profpe- ritjopalence, and glory of her maritime empire ! II. Unremitted care was taken to guard again il pu- tr(J£tion, an J a variety of meafures purfuiicl, in order rocure, and maintain, a purity of air in ihe fhip. this end, forne wood, and that not fj^arinf^iy, being pjinto a proper (love, was lighted, and carried inc- C( vely to every part below deck. Wherever lire it, tf air neareft to it, being heated, becomes ipecilicaliy li ter, and by being lighter rifes, and pafl'es ihrouirh ^tl hatcfiways into the atmofphere. The partial va- citi is (iiied with the cold air around, and that bein^j hied in its turn, in like manner alcends, and is rc- ptd with other air as before. Thus by continuinc; tlfe're for fome time, in any of the lower apartments, thjbul air is in a good mejfure driven our, and the frd admitted. Beiides, the acid fteanjs of the wood, inlrning, aCt probably here as an antifeptic, and cor- redhe corrupted air that remains. The (hi] » was ge- neik' thus aired vrith fires once or twice a week. It hasleen obferved by an officer of diltingui(hed rank, thall the old twenty gun (hips were remarkably kh field than thofe equal in dimenfions, but of modern conlidlion; which circumlbnce he could no other- wificount for, than by the former having their firc- placlr kitchen in the forepart of the deck immedi- atelAove the hold, where the fiue vented fo ill, that, whefee wind was allern, every part was filled with fmoH This was a nuifance for. the time, but which was Indantly compenfated by the good health of the . Vol— N" 26. 6 N feveral loiB CAPTAIN COOK'8 SECOND VOYAGE. • feveral crews for : thofe fire-places dried the lower 4k?, much more when placed below, than they cari'bw under ihc fore-caftle upon the upper deck. Blithe moll henefioial end anlwcred by thele portable iVes vas, their dryini; up the' damps, and foul moiire, eipecially ifttlicfe places wher6 the air was moil Ifcly to be corrupted for the want of a free circulation, as fou4 moiiture is Ibrtned of the breath, and perfpiile matter of a multitude of men, of the animals, orlrc ftock, and of the (learns of the bilge water from the jll, where the ftaf»nated corruption is the greatell. lis piitiid humidity, being one of the principal fourcif tlje fcorhuiic diieafe, was, in order to its removal, r- ficularly attended to ; and while the fires were burnj lom'e of the hands were employed in rubbing hard, canvas, or oakum, every part of the (hip that was.dal and acceflible. But the advantage of thefe means, f preferving the healtli of m:\riners, appeared no wherc^) confpicuons, as in purifying the well ; which bej situated in :iie lowed part of the hold, the whole leak^ runs into ir, vvheihcr of the fliip itfelf, or the calks^ fpoiled meat, or corrupted water. Yet this place rendered both fafe and iweet by means of an iron fiiied with fire, and let down to burn therein : we fufe, becaufe the noxious vapours, from this fink al( have often been the caufe ofmllantaneous death totl who have unwarily approached to clean it; and nc^ one only, but to feveral fucceffively, when they Ife gone down to fuccour their unfortunate afliftis. When this wholefomc proccls could not take placf y reafon of llormy weather, the Ihip was fumigated ih gunpowder, mixed with vinegar or water, 'the fipe could have little efFeiH: in drying, but it might corrcJie putrid air, by means of the acid fpirits from the fuAir and riitre, afiiHed perhaps by the aerial fluid, theiii- engaged from the fuel, to countera£(: putrefain. 7'hde purifications by gunpowder, by burning tavid other refinous fubllances, are fufHciently known. tVe vf\(l\ the fime could be LU of the ventilator, inwed .( > CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. 1019 bjr)r Hales, the credit of which, thougli we .ire^ con- vn^id of its excellence, is f:^r from being ^ftabliflied in thdavy. Perhaps Ca[)lain (^ook liadnot time to exa- mii it, and therefore would not encum^)er his fhip wii a machine he had pcffibly never iceu worked, and ofjhich he had, at bell, received but-g doubtful ^ha- fair ; and we find he was not altogeihsr unprovided wil an apparatus for ventilation. He had the wind-. fail which he found very lerviceable, particularly be- t\«n thi^ tropics. They take up little room, require ndabour in working, and tlie invention ih fo fimple. thithey can fail in no hands ; but yet their powers are fnll in comparifon with thofe of Hales's Ventilator ; aqto- which, they cannot be put up in. hard gales of wjd, and they are of no ufe in dead calms, when a ciAiIation of ax is chiefly neceffiry, and required. iTlI. The attention of Capt. Cook was direded not ofy to the fhip, but to the perlons, hammocks, bed- ^, cloaths, &c. of the crew, and even to the litenlils t|y ufed, that the whole might be conftantly kept clean dry. Proper attention was paid to the fhip's cop- rs ; and the fat which boiled out of the ialt beef and k, the Captain never fufFered to be given to the peo- , being of opinion that it promotes the i curvy, anlincls is not only conducive to health, it ailb tends t|-egularity, and is the patron of other virtues. If can perfuade thofe who are to be under command, e more cleanly than they are difpofed to be of them- 8, they will become more fober, more orderly, and attentive to their duty. The pradice in the verifies this obfervation ; yet, we confefs, a ma- has indifferent means to keep himfelf clean, had e inclination to do it ; but, in our opinion, fea s might avail themfelves of the flill for provi- dinfcrefh water for the purpofc of wafhing ; feeing it is \t known that fait water will not mix with foap, .en wet with brine feldom thoroughly dries. As t. Cook, one morning, in every week, he pafled 's company in review, and faw that every man 6 N 2 liM an for (lis * y f > 102P "CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE. had changed his linen, and was in other poinms clean as circumftances would permit ; arjd ilie freqipt opportunities he had of taking in frefp water aim g . the iflands in the South Sen, enabled him to allow is crew a fufficient quantity of this whoKfomc article )r ^ every ufe ; and tliis hrinc^s us to tuiothcr ufcful incjis ^v coiHhicive to the health ot feamen. ' j ' VIIJ. Caprain Cook thought fl'cfh wafer from e ^^^*^ore4)referable to that which has been kept fomctie u^ji hoard a ftiip, and tljerdbre he was careful to p- •ure a fupply of this cfTential article whcrrver it ^ s to he obtained, even thou^li his company were notti want of it : nor were they' ever at an allowance, lit had always fufiicient for every neceiTary purpoie. was the Captain without an apparatus for diiiilling fr water ; but though he availed himlelf fometimes of invention, he dkl not tcly on it, finding, by expe ments, that he ccAild not obtain by this means nearly much as was ^xpedled. This was no difappointme' to him, fince within the fouthern tropic, in the I^acjfl Ocean, he difcovcred fo many iliands, a}} well fton "with wholefome fprings ; and when in the high laf tudes, far from a fi«gle fountain, he found the har Ihips and dangers infeparable from the frigid zone, i fome degree compenfated by the fmgular' felicity enjoyed, of extrading inexhauftible supplies of fre water from an ocean ftrewed with ice. Thofe ve fhoals, fields, and- floating mountains of ice, amo^ which he (leered his pertfous courfe, and which pf fented fuch terrifying objects of deftrudtion, were i^ very means of his uipport^ by fupplying him ab^ dantly with jrfwjl»4^-mpft jWanted. l^iat all fror water wouldSKiw 4inS^fedh j was a paradox that been afe|iled, but m«t wfl^ likle credit : even Cajjin Cdo^4mnfelf expefted iM,.i>ich traBft^-uitation ; id ^ therrfore was agreeably fupj^'iftd to^lim^S^ jbadpe difficulty lefs to encounter, nitxi^, that of priderpg tfifie health of his men fo long on fait and putrid p^i- dptiSy with a fcanty allowance of, perhaps, foul ^€r, or , 1^' iGE. freqnt ter aini{» allow is larticle )r :ful mchs from (bmc tiie ul to p - ver it ^ s crc nod vancc, It ole. ^ r illing fn i mes oft: by expe s nearly pointme the liaiCji well ftor high lat' ; the har d zone, i felicity h ;s of tre| hofe vei ;e, amor" srhich pf were i^ iim aby- ail fro K that n Ca ^on ; ^jhad 3r|rerhg ricfpf^i- Dul wr, or In id le APTAIN COOK'S SECOXD VOYAGE. J» >''■' M' ' or OTF whaUie cnuk! obtain by the nfc of the ftill. An ^antiit writer of meat authority, no lefs than one cf *the iinys, hadvMligncd, from theory, had qualities to nllted (now; hut o:ir judicious Commander alFirms, thatmeltcd ice of the fai !•< not only fKc(h, but Ibft, a!Kt ib wolelome, as to (hew tliC Inilacy i-f human reaio.i unfppvntcd by experiments. And what is very re- mapble, though in the mi J(l of fleets, falls of Inow, ' thiJ foj^s, and much moill weather, t!ie Refolution" enwyed nearly the fame rtate of health Ihe had expc- rieced in the temperate and torrid zones. Ii>dced to- wJas the end of the fevenl councs, fomc of the Jnari-; net began to cpmplain of the fcurvy, but this difeafc lelitde progre!s ; nor were other d!forders,as colds, diarrhoeas, intermittents, and continued fevers, either ninerous, alarming, or fatal. Nof jnult wc omit heT!e tie remark of a celebrated phylician, who juftty oh^- fives, ** that tnuch commendation is'due to the atten- tin and abilities of Mr Patten, the furgecn of the Refo- :ion, for having fo w«ll feconded his (-aptain in the /(fifcharge of his duty." For it muft be allowed, that m diipite of the beft regulations, and the heft ptbvi- lions, there will always be among a numerous crew, during a long voyage, fome cafualiiies more or lefs pro- iudivc of fickncfs, and unlels there be an intelligent nedical alTiftant on board, many, nnde>the wifeft cora-i nander, will perifti, that othcrwifc might have been ived. We fhall obferve once more, IX. That Captain Cook j?wa^' not only careful to re- ienifli, whenever opportunity permitted, his cafks with 'ater ; but he provided his men with all kinds of re- iefliments, both anini*^ and ^vegetable, that he could leet with, and by evety mes^^Jn-iiis^ power : thefe, ^en if not pleafmg to the piaia^e, he bbJiged his people tufe, bott^iyy exam^Wand^uthoritY ; "bin; the bene- f3 ariiing fi:om r^Mnients of any land fodiv became fc^vious, tha^-hfcngad li!de occalion to recor^mend^ ti one, or exert the 6ther.- Thus did this expert^and hkane navigator employ all the means and regulaHotns, . which f \ .„..^«.^. ^iiaij^ii^ iii« ■»*•"*" '1 ten CAPTAIN COOK** .SECOND VOYAG] • which the art of man fuggdlcd, or the God of nturc Wovided for the mod benevolent purpofc,. even tit of pv^ferving the health andjive^of thofe intruiled I his i'3L\k Here is greater merits than a difcovcry of fiken nhknown countries could have claimed ; and whicl|irUl exift, in the opinion of every benevolent mind, alih- je£l of admiration and prnife, when the difputes abut A fouthern continent (hall no lonj^er encage Uie attn- tion, or divide the judgment of plulofophical en(j\iiln!. Tliis is a memorial more lading than the mimic ml;, or the jcti^t^zoned medal ; for this can never pemi^ but will remain engraven on tlie hearts of £ngli(hr(n to th^ir lateft pofterity. May. future navigators fpr out of this bright example, not only to perpetuate juftly acquired fame, but to imitate his labours for advancement of natural knowledge, the good of focici, mid the true gbry of Great Britain, .'S^**- 1", MND OJF TH£ SSQOND VOTAGS,^ \» '/• V . I f,.:.'-i AG] of ren t iftcd 'off wliici InJ, a utes a Uie a en(j^i imic ^r pe; iglilh ors rp etuate irs for offociel |tur« tof his :en rUl lb. Mlt in- iKv A; V" f , '*»».