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Phote)graphic

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f*SR>^

A PICTURE

c^.

^i^'^-'.y

^--'

I) r

BRITISH CENTRAL

1!®^-t;;j a[i:/ji[Ra©^\

THE PllOPOSKD NEW CROWN COLONY,

AND

THE GREAT HIGHWAY

BETWEEN CANADA AND THE PACIFIC:

II V

w« HI. o. ¥L\mc^bnr

r>K,iCE oiTB SM:i3Lx,iisra-.

mi^

/eod

«^^^

ACROSS AMERICA.

193

FOKT WILLIAM, LOOKING IP THE KIVKU.

ACROSS AMERICA.

A SUMMER trip across America, from the fertile corn-producing country
of Canada, to the new rich gold-giving Colony of British Columbia —
how delightful, how romantic, how grand in conception. It has been
done, it is being done, and it will be done again; of that there can be o
doubt. We will try, therefore, to pick up what information wo can ot -.
past, present, and future of the route. The route I speak of is the dirt
and shortest route through British territory to the north of its boundary
line, and that of the United States.

First, let us get across to Canada, an undertaking easy to be accom-
plished on board the fine Canadian steamers leaving Liverpool every
week, and landing us at Quebec in ten days. By a continuous line of
vail, we journey on till we find ourselves on the shores of Lake Huron,
■whence a steamer will convey us along the northern coast of that lake,
among the Manatoulin Islands, past the rich Bruce Mines to the canal
of the Sault St. Mary, which connects Lake Huron with Lake Superior.
Now across Luke Superior we paddle towards its western shore, where

194

ACROSS A5I ERICA.

will be found a long established post of the Hudson's Buy Company, called
Fort William.

Our business is now to get from Fort William to Fort Garry, the chief
fort of the Red River Settlement. And where is this Fort Garry ? and
where is the Red River Settlement? it is just possible some reader may
ask, and he may insist on knowing something about it. Of that I will
gladly tell him by and by, but at present the question is, where is it ?

Take a map of North America, and about a hundred and fifty miles
from the boundary line between the United States and British territory,
and nearly in the v^ry centre of the continent, will be found a point where
two rivers unite, the Assinniboine and Red Rivers, which shortly after
empty themselves into that basin of water called Lake Winnipeg.

At the point of junction will be found Fort Garry, with its neighbouring
houses, cottages, and huts inhabited by some few hundred whites, and
several thousand half-caates and Red-skins, with, I believe, at this moment,
Mr. Dallas as Governor, and Dr. Anderson, a most devoted man, as
Bishop ; while, if the settlement does not produce and export oil and wine,
it does corn, and fish, and butifalo meat, and a variety of other articles,
besides the rich furs, which form the Company's staple article of com-
merce. The settlement is known, variously as Rupert's Land Settlement,
the Red River Settlement, or Assinniboia. But the question is, how are wo
to get to this half-way house acrdss the continent? and when we have got
there, how are we to get on over the less known part between it and the
Pacific ? At present there is a quicker way to get there than by Fort
William. Having reached Upper Canada we cross into the United States
at Detroit, and from thence rattle on by railway, via Chicago, to a town
on the upper Mississippi, called La Crosse. From this place small steamers
run up the Mississippi to the falls of St. Paul's, where navigation for
steamers ceases. To reach St. Paul's is a matter of perfect ease. From
thence, it is asserted that there is a good road with wagons and coaches
to the American town or village of George Town on the Red River, the
time occupied to perform the distance being six days ; and that from
George Town there are steamers running regularly to fort Garry, taking
three days to perform the trip, so that Fort Garry may be reached from
Quebec in about twelve days' pretty hard travelling, but not harder than
any man in strength would be wnlling to undergo.

We, however, have reached Fort William, and wish to proceed by the
shortest route to Fort Garry. Instead of going the old way, by canoes up

ny, called

the chief
rry ? and
ader may
liat I will
is it?
ifty miles
territory,
iiit where
>rtly after

;hbouring
iites, and

moment,

man, as
and wine,
' articles,

of com-

ittlement,

w are wo

have got

; and the

by Fort
;ed States
to a town

steamers
;ation for
e. From
I coaches
liver, the
hat from
y, taking
died from
'der than

3d by the
3anoes up

ACROSS AMERICA.

196

the Dog River, with numerous portages, into Dog Lake, we proceed north
in our steamer to Thunder Bay. Here we land, and push our way across
country, where we hope soon to have a good road, 28 miles, to Dog Lake.
Along this Dog Lake we have clear navigation of 35 miles, and then we
must land and make a portage of 5 miles to the Savanne River, whore Ve
obtain a free navigation of 65 miles, through Lac des Milles Lacs and the
river Seine to the little falls. Wo have now numerous portages, altogether
amounting to 7 miles, and 59^ of navigation. Once more we are afloat,
and with only one interruption we get a run of 208 miles by steamers or
boats down the river Seine into Rainy Lake, and from thence into the
Lake of the Woods, which we cross to the western extremity of Lac Plat.
Here vre land and travel across the country for 91 i miles to Fort Garry,
the whole distance wo have gone over being exactly 499 miles, say just
500 miles.

Supposing all the proposed arrangements made, good steamers, rail-
roads, or roads for coaches and tramways, over which loaded boats may
be drawn, the distance might be accomplished from Fort William to Fort
Garry in six days. The greater portion of this distance would be per-
formed by steamers. On the sixty miles of broken navigation on the
River Seine, large boats would be more suitable than steamers. These
could be dragged up inclined plains, and dragged over tramAvays along
the portages to the next navigable part of the river. From Lac Plat to
Fort Garry the country is open, and the inhabitants of the Red River Set-
tlement can already supply ample means of transport. The Hudson's Bay
Company's canoes voyaging up the Dog River to Dog Lake, and pr ^(^ed-
ing through the Lake of the Thousand Isles, Rainy Lake and Late of
the Woods, occupied three weeks between Fort William and Fort Garry.

Another route is proposed from Fort William south, to Arrow Lake
and River, and from thence by Pigeon River in boats, crossing the port-
ages on tramways into Rainy Lake and then along Rainy River to the
Lake of the Woods. The objection to this route is that it runs along the
American border for a considerable distance. The expense of opening it is
calculated as under 12,000/. There will be of carriage roads 145 miles ;
tramways, 3 miles ; boat navigation, 156 miles ; steam navigation, 186
miles ; total 490, to occupy 99 hours of actual travelling. Thus, allowing
eight hours of rest in the twenty-four, the journey may be performed with
ease and pleasure in six days. I have reason to believe that this first

o 2

in«

ACROSS AMERICA.

portion of the route across the continent is at present the mojt difficult,
and that Fort Garry once reached, the rest of the road to the Rocky
Mountains will be found comparatively easy, when proper arrangements
are made for supplying traders with provisions. However, we cannot
do better than accompany a very active and intelligent gentleman, Pro-
fessor Hind, of the University of Trinity College, Toronto*, who, when
in charge of the expeditions sent out to explore the Red River, Assinni-
boine and Saskatchewan districts by the Canadian Government, went
over a great portion of all the routes I have mentioned to Fort Garry,
and thence proceeded for many hundred miles across the continent in the
direction of the Vermilion Pass, through the Rocky Mountains, said to
bo the best suited for a wagon road.

On a misty May morning we fiight Isle Royalo off the western shore of
Lake Superior, and, passing Thunder Cape as the fog clears off, the im-
posing and magnificent scenery of Thunder Bfiy is gradually revealed.
Soon wo and our baggage are put on shore at Fort William, standing
close to one of the mouths of the Kaministiquia River. The fort is }>ic-
turesquely situated, but has not a very imposing aspect. Near it is the
site of an Ojibway village and pasture ground for a herd of cows. At an
Indian reserve, a short distance off, a Roman Catholic Mission has been
established.

Unpretending as Fort William is in appearance, to the Hudson's Bay
Company it is an important post, and may ere long become a very impor-
tant one, not only to Canada, but to England herself, for vessels of ithreo
or four hundred tons have already traversed the whole distance between
other places on the lake and Liverpool.

I have spoken of two routes from Fort William — one up the Kaminis-
tiquia into Dog Lake; but there are numerous rapids to pass, when our

* This account is taken chiefly from " The Narrative of the Canadian Red River Ex-
ploring Expedition of 1857, and of the Assinniboinc and Saskatchewan exploring Expe-
dition of 1858," by H. Y. Hind, M.A., F.R.G.S., Professor of Chemistry and Geology in
the University of Trinity College, Toronto ; 2 vols. ; London, Longmans. This work is
written in an admirable spirit, and will be found, even to the ordinary reader, full of the
mostl interesting matter. There are descriptions of numerous Indian tribes, bufialo
hunts, scenery, the fur trade, and the result of missionary labours throughout that part
of ;the continent. Mr. Hind makes his readers desire to become personally acquainted
withhim, and long to hear more of his adventures. The publishers have kindly
allowed mc to use several of the smaller woodcuts which illustrate the work.

ACROSS AMERICA.

187

it difficult,
ho Rocky
mgements
-ve cannot
nan, Pro-
'lio, when
', Assinni-
lent, went
irt Garry,
ent in the
IS, said to

n .shore of
f, the im-

revealed.

staudintj
ort is }iic-
r it is the
s. At an

has been

son's Bay
ry impor-
i of three
! between

Kaminis-
rvhen our

'. River Ex-
ring Expe-
Geology ill
'his woi-k is
full of the
)c.s, bnfralo
It that part
acquainted
avo kindly

canoes and stores nnd luggage must be carried overland, by portage, as
the term is, and hence those paths taken to avoid rapids, or from one
river or lake to another, arc called portages; and so Mr. Hind, who has
been that way, takes the southern route by the Pigeon River. As the
road between Fort William and that river no longer exists, we proceed to
an American post near the mouth of the river called Grand Portage, and
our two canoes being carried across a neck of land, wo embark on the
river and paddle away up stream to the westward.

These same birch-bark canoes were built at Lachine, near Montreal,
and have been brought all this way by steam-boat and rail-road. We
have a guide and twelve Iroquois Indians from the same locality to man
the two canoes, besides Avhich each carries two gentlemen of the party and
stores and provisions. We paddle on all day and camp at night. When
we come to a portage we jump out. Two men carry the canoe, the rest
load themselves with her freight, and bear it, perhaps a mile — it may be
two, till smooth water is reached. Sometimes we track up a rapid, or
where the river runs very swiftly. We feel how useful a tramway would
be here. Every portage has its name, and so indeed has every point, ov
stream, or isle. For ages the fur traders' canoes have been traversing this
country. To their people every mile is well knov/n. We indulge in small
tents for sleeping, but our beds are the hard rock, with a few rugs about
us, with some fresh spruce or pine boughs under our bodies. We rise
betimes. The morning is probably calm, the stars are slightly paling ;
cold yellow light begins to show itself in the east ; on the river or lake
rests a screen of dense fog, landward a forest impenetrable to the eye.
Walking a step or two from the camp, a sudden rush through the under-
brush tells of a fox, minx, or martin pr , ; ling close by, probably attracted
by the remains of last night's meal. I'rom the dying camp fires a thin
column of smoke rises bright above the trees, or spreads lakevvards to join
the damp misty veil which hides the quiet waters from view. Round
the fires are silent forms, like shrouded corpses stretched at full length
on the bare rock, or on spruce branches carefully arranged. These are
the Indians ; they have completely enveloped themselves in their blankets,
and lie motionless on their backs.

Beneath upturned canoes, or lying like the Indians with their feet to
the fire, the French voyageurs are found scattered about the camp ; gene-
rally the servant attached to each tent stretches himself before the canvas

o 3

198

ACROSS AJIEBICA.

door. No souihI distuibs the bilenco of the early dawn if the night has
been coUl and calm. All nature seems sunk in perfect repose ; the "silence
is almost oppressive. As the dawn advances, an Indian awakes, uncovers
his f^ice, sits on his haunches, and looks around from beneath the folds of
his blanket, which he has drawn over iiis head. After a few minutes, his
companions showing no signs of waking, he utters a low " waugh."
Slowly other forms unroll themselves, sit on their haunches, and Took
round in silence. Three or four minutes arc allowed to pass away, when
one of them rises and arranges the fire, adding fresh wood and blowinn-
the embers into a flame. He calls a French voyageur by name, who leapl
from his couch, and in a low voice utters "Levc, Icve." Two or three of
his companions quickly rise, remain for a few minutes on their knees in
prayer, and then shout lustily "Lcive, messieurs, Icvc." In another minute
•all is life, the motionless forms under the canoes, by the camp fires, under
trees, or stretched before th^ tent doors, spring to their feet. The 'canvas
is shaken, and ten minutes given to dress ; the tent pins are then un-
loosened, and the half-dressed laggard rushes into the open air to escape
the damp folds of the tent, now threatening to envelope him.

Meanwhile the canoes are launched, and the baggage stowed away.
The voyageurs and travellers take their seats, a hasty look is thrown
around to see that no stray frying-pan or hatchet is left behind, and the
start is made.

An effort to be cheerful and sprightly is soon damped by the mists into
which we plunge, and no sound but the measured stroke of the pj>.ddle
greets the ear. The sun begins to glimmer above the horizon, the fo'r
clears slowly away, a loon or a flock of ducks fly wildly across the bow of
the first canoe, the Indians and voyageurs shout at the frightened birds,
or imitate their cry with admirable accuracy, the guide stops, pipes are
lit, and a cheerful day is begun.

Thus we go on day after day. Sometimes the stream is with us, and
we spin merrily along. Sometimes it is against us, and we make with
hard toil but slow progress. Sometimes we cross a broad lake, the shore
scarcely visible on either side ; this is called making a traverse ; but gene-
raUy we coast along the shores, for storms may arise suddenly, and the
waves in an instant begin to roll and foam, sufficient to overwhelm our
frail canoes. Now we track our canoes up a rapid, against which no
power of the paddles can avail. Now we shoot down°one not always
without danger. A French Canadian voyageur is at the helm, an Ojib-

ACROSS A3IERICA.

199

e night has
the silence
s, uncovers
the folds of
ninutes, his
" waugh."
!, and look
way, when
id blowinjr
, who leaps
or three of
ir knees in
lier minute
ires, under
riie canvas
2 then un-
r to escape

ived away.

is thrown

id, and the

mists into
;he p.-'.ddle
n, the foff
the bow of
ned birds,

pipes are

;h us, and
aake with
the shore
but gene-
y, and the
s^helm our
whieh no
Dt always
, an Ojib-

way Indian, Charley, is bowman. The helmsman fails to give the proper
direction to the canoe to avoid a rock jutting out at the head of the rapid.
JuBt as we make the leap, the stern, borne swiftly round by the current,
f^razes the rock, and the bark is rent, how much we cannot tell. ClKirley
turns round and brandishes his paddle ut the unfortunate helmsman. We
are deeply laden, and the bottom of our canoe is so covered with our bag-
gage, that no purl is visible.

" Put your fingers to the bottom of the canoe, IMonsicur," says our
Canadian. " How much water !"

" Two inches," we answer

" That will do ;. we shall make no more water now, we are out of the
rapid — it is only a crack, and the bark is tough."

We, however, make three inches in a short time, antl to save our bag-
f^a^o from being wetted, it becomes advisable to land immediately and
gum the leak.

We have a supply of gum with us, which is speedily applied by melting
over the flame of a burning stick. We have also a supply of watap.
This is the root of the tamarac, used for sewing together the pieces of
birch-bark of which the canoes are constructed.

At length we reach the Lake of the Woods, which is 325 miles by the
Pi"-eon lliver route, and 381 by Dog Lake from Luke Superior, and is
about seventy-five miles in length and the same in breadth. The scenery
among the islands towards the north-west corner of the 1 iko is most lovely,
and presents every variety of bare precipitous rock, abrupt timbered hills,
gentle wooded slopes, and open grassy areas. We purpose landing at the
extreme western corner of the lake, and travelling overland to Fort Garry;
but while we are encamped at Garden Island, a pai-ty of Indians, attracteif
by our fires, make their appearance, and next morning a large number
assemble. They have just returned from an expedition against the Sioux,
and look hideous in their war paint and the scalps they have taken.
They claim the country, through which we intend passing, as their own,
and positively forbid our penetrating into it. Several of our party are ill,
and altogether we deem it politic not to make the attempt.

The chief observes, " It is hard to deny your request ; but we see how
the Indians are treated far away. The white man comes, looks at their
flowers, their trees, and their rivers ; others soon follow ; the lands of the
Indians soon pass from their hands, and they have nowhere a home.

O 4

2(10

ACROSS AMERICA.

Y„t go b, the .., the whu;„;;;r.,a. Lt..;— 1,„, ,„

-ff^^ss^Kw^^^ti^^^i^ violence detains us for

=f3^^^J - r W^ ^^^^ liours on a small

island, and we arrive
<?arljr in the day at Rat
Portage, Avhere the
great Winnipeg issues
from the Lake of the
Woods. In its course
, of 163 miles, this river
f descends 349 feet by a
succession of miglity
cataracts. Some of the
Jl ^''^^^^ ^^^ rapids present
|j the wildest and most
picturesque scenery,
displaying every variety
of tumultuous cascade,
witli foaming rapids,
treacherous eddies,
and huge swelling
waves, rising massive
and green over hidden
rocks. Kg sketch, no
language can convey

FALIS AT lUT POETAGE,

the astonlshinfv chanrrp, +1,^ ,„• language can convey

Srey dawn of mo ni f or IT"? ''T * ""'"' '^^"'^"^ '^^'^'^ "^ t'-
the brightness of n ondat or ^ Tk '\ ''' """^^ ^^""' '' «''^«^^"S -
Hver ^-luentiyex^Lt^;:;,^^^^^^^^^^^^ The

precipitous cliffs or rounded hillsTf gr.anile ' "'''' ''""''' '^

On an island near Knf Porfarro ^. - ^-*, ,

■ ^'''^^-^ "^^ Hudson's Bay Company have a

ACROSS AMERICxi.

201

'e- I have told

sents from Red
3 best passages,
^vhich are very
tvhich we meet
^storm of great
detains us for
«rs on a small
nd we arrive
he day at Rat
where the
innipcg issues

Lake of the
In its course
les, this river
349 feet by a
■ of mighty

Some of the
apids present
St and most
e scenery,
every variety
ous cascade,
ling rapids,
3 eddies,
' swelling
ing massive
3ver hidden

sketch, no
Jan convey
ects in the

flashing in
tioon. The
)ounded by

ny have a

very beautifully situated post. After passing an expansion of the river
called Sandy Lake, we reach a very interesting spot; about 2o0 acres of
fertile soil, surrounded by granite rocks; and on this spot is situated the
first we visit of, we rejoice to siiy, many Protestant Missions to the
Indians, established throughout the Pludson's Bay Company's territory.
It 13 known as the Islington ^Mission, or White Dog, or Chieu Blanc. It
is worthy of remark that wheat sown on the 20th of May was reaped on tho
26th of August. In general it requires but ninety-three days to mature.
Potatoes have not been attacked by spring or ftill frosts during a period of
five years. Indian corn ripens well, and may become a valuable crop
on the Lower Winnipeg. Spring opens, and vegetation commences at
Islington, about the 10th of May, and winter sets in about the 1st of
November.

The Rev. Robert M'Donald, in charge a* Islington, informs us that the
mission was for several years held by tu. Roman Catholics, but was
abandoned on account of the opposition of the Indians, who drove them
away in consequence of the death of a young girl in the nunnery at Red
River Settlement. The heathen Indians persuaded the converts that all
who embraced Christianity would soon die. The Mission was left vacant
for six years, after wiiich, in 1850, Mr. Philip Kennedy was appointed
catechist, a post he held till the 20th of October, 1853, when the Rev.
Robert M'Donald was enabled to revive the Mission by the generous and
Christian liberality of Mrs. Landon, of Bath, who gave 1000/. for its
establishment, and gives 100/. a year for its maintenance. May Mrs.
Landon's admirable example be imitated by many others; may many
hearts be stirred to aid in spreading the glorious truths of the Gospel
among the long benighted savages of North America, to establish tho
Church in tlie wilderness. Thus, when the white man goes and settles
in those regions, as he will ere long, he may be welcomed as a Christian
brother, and not as a foe, and his advent may not prove, as it has hitherto
done, the signal for the extermination of the red man. Our prayer
also is that active, intelligent, well-educated young men may be moved
to offer themselves as missionaries to the Red-skins, and may bo found
fitted for the glorious work. What more noble occupation than to bear
the tidings of salvation to a perishing people ? Surely such a calling is
not beneath the highest born, beit educated, and most wealthy man in
l-ngiand, and I earnestly trust that some who read this account may learn

202

ACROSS A:\rERICA.

I-akc, 1 native catccliist. A'epoiveww 1 oh., J ""^"-'Syman. Moose

vast extent of country 1 tW ln« , ^ T™" '° "'""^ ' ^^''"" ^
-JieaMo.atcriai:Se"':^Zlt ""''' '"'"" ''^^"™'"^ -

Wo must remember, too, that tliey have not only to le.rn =
guage to teaeh and preach in it, buf often to labour witMheirbri ,
to instruct the natives in the arts of civilised hTe tr^L^t T
example, cultivates a large farm, and this sr^vLZ' ™"'''' ^°''

Indians ten hundred wefght o^'Z^IZl^Z^^:! ::;^''^'
savages thus learn to look upon the white n,In I protertir ' .,
come more ready to listen to his counsel and instruction' ' ""' ''■

.a^p;B::rrrorr's::^n^^^^^^
r::Tix^p-Srst:^i!-^^^^^^^^

they only be-an in ]H49 17 T, ^ ''^*' ""' ^^^^' though

J "V i^i-to'in m Jb4J. lu-oin that time to 18^« +1. • L . ^

amounted to 5 l-^-r a^ ^ i , ^'^" *"^"' baptisms

houses t tll^^ ionari f a dTwo'oT """'T ''"-*'' -'^'»"«^
of charity, who cm,not fail to Z 7 T"" ""'"^ ""'""'"^ •'^ ^'^'ors

Should n^; the acr'omelll^^^^^^^^^^ ^ «'-

|f the latter really believe that theirs i. the^p^ff "ih! 'l^ZZ^

A' ''OSS AMERICA.

203

eir utmost to

n the Ojibway
sland were, at
mce.

mention that
■ North-West

gymen, a lay
nan. Indian
ho is country
Fore Pelhj^ a
nan. Moose
e. English
Fort Simp-

1 and native
y? Wiiata
Jarently un-

a new lau-
1' hands and
'Donald, for
o famishing
^heat. The
tor, and be-

tt Rossville,
he Roman
Red River,
tch, though
i* baptisms
substantial
t by sisters
3 to them.
Votestants,
i that their

system is that which can Ic.c exhibit to the heathen the blessin^rs of
salvation ? °

Again next morning we paddle on. At Slave Falls we meet an officer
in charge of supplies for Fort Francis, &c. His motley crew of Indians
and half-breeds are engaged in hauling a bateau over the rocks. Twenty
to twenty-five men are pulling at a rope attached to the bateau, and with
the utmost exertion slowly lifting the unwieldy craft up a wall of water five
feet high. We pass into a small river, a branch of the Winnipeg, among
swamps, which, the Indians tell us, in favourable seasons, show a vas't

^■^^^^i^P^^

POET ALEXANDEE. MOUTH OF TUB AVINNIPEG EIVEB.

expanse of waving rice grain, from which they can speedily fill their
canoes by beating the heads with sticks. We see also great numbers of
duck, herons, pigeons, woodpeckers, cedar birds, jays, &c.

_ The Winnipeg teems with fish, among which are 'sturgeons, pike, two
kmds of ^vhlte fish, perch, suckers, &c. Rabbits and other game abound
on the shore, but to the Indian even this amount of animals aiford but a
precarious existence, as he often, from imperfect means, is unable to catch
them We touch at Fort Alexander on the banks of the river, a mile and
a ..9L distance troui Lake V/lnnipeg. Here wheat and Indian corn grow
and we see some potatoes of great size and excellent quality. These forts,

201

ACE0S3 AMERICA.

or posts, of the Hudson's Bay Company are all much of Z- Z"

racter, and are to be found extendino- from th! L ^ i f, ^""^ ''"'•
Pacific. They consist of Pitw ■ ° u , '""''''" "^ '^'"""'•■' '» the

ihc Chief „ffice^s"r;t:l;'"or;e:::^:;::r^,f^'''"s-''--f^^^
^^s:.hiiero-r:^X1st:i=^^^^^^

We start at night, and make a Ion"' travers,. nf ti,„ i i i
At length we enter o„o of the many tout " of R d R ' ''^ T""'''*'
banks rising to the height of thirty fZ, ■ ? '"""'' ''''"•* *'">

the scenery'presents tl^e aspl: 7» lolZmlXn'' rr? ""' ""
the romantic scenery of the Winnipeg, the i.h J;!. °.r '""''
white houses of thp seftl.-. „f *i r I ^ ' ™''""gs> the neat

signs of improv^lt m i: n Tase" ne.r:':,""' f'"" "'' """=-
ond rapids where half-clad savage; fish and f,. ''°'".,'"^r'"'" <'»=»-<Je3
cile us to the even floW of the Rod R ' ' '^""'^ ^'""'' ""<• ■•'^'=»"-

and women new live il t^^^'' "" '"" ■"""' ^""^""" "■^"

hori; tt -dTt^ntrmii ^I'u^irr^;^;'-' '.'-™' "'■•«
Winnipeg, ;fist:xtr„r„ss;::^T'rrfiu:n

those streams. Fort Garry, the head-quar.ers of . ,e f ur t .de fn rX 1

Hvr:^.r:trea .t r.---"*'- -^ «>^ i«r„::s!f'the'
Which ..as ™:fa wi:i';rtrtrrrofir" r t^^" f^-

feet in tenacious clay through nearly levecouPt,^f„! JT. ^'^ ^ *° '^"''^
one hundred miles. ^ "" " "^""'''""'= ""^ding

disrn^irm :hTrtS:,it^^^^^^^^^ r "^ «■« ^-^^ '- » ^-t

.P .0 Port Garry. Th; TlsJ sMc of tie ^ er7, ril'^ Td'Tr/'f
varying from a few yards to a mile. At Grand « Jf ' " ''""

where every desirable comfort is enioved ZL ^^''^^^Se house,

Hunter- tvho r-^c^iv-. -, ' V^ ^7^, ^ ^ encumbent, Archdeacon

of his curlte anlTlul T ^T',"^* "^ ^^'^^^'^^^ it is the residence

curate, and a well-built school-house. We proceed on till we reach

;

ACTIOSH AMERICA.

the same cha-
' Canada to the
Uing-houses fcr
are surrounded
Lck of Indians,
de, and native
t of cultivated

by moonlight.
rev, where the
ppears, and all
liough we miss
ings, the neat
ige, and other
itiful cascades
od, and recon-
Christiau men

t stream, hire
r rises in the
ich about 140
outh, in Lake
confluence of
de in British
atures of the
50 feet wide,
hirty to forty
ice exceediufT

5 from a short
y^-three miles
fled, the belt
ass a collec-
seating five
nage house,
Archdeacon
he residence
ill we reach

205

ht. PauU Churol,, in tho ,„i,l,|l„ settlement, ofght miles north of Fort
Gary. Hero the river win,I» between prairie banks abont thirty i^e

of St. John s Chureh, tlio peaked roof of St. John's Colle-e, the sohool-
bonse, the bishop's residence, *e„ oifer the appearance of ala "e v in.t
winch .reproduced, after a hI„„,, turn at Point Douglas, by tho° L^^
Roman eathohc chnrch dodieatcl ,„ St. Boniface, the s^aeions nnnnen°
and the p.,nsh school, with other buildings on tl.e leftf and I !ro„p ^f
™ commodious private dwelling-house, just below Fort Garrj- on the

B=,-«!p*«?*4^il,-i'lM-^*g

entsTed'Kfvr'aL"''"'''; "'," v"'""" ^''""""' "•■""" "'« Assinniboine
enters Ked Kivei and a short distance up this stream the bastions of

1 or Garry come into view. The houses of settlers continue to a p on

:xri;^t.rG"- ' '"""""* '-'-'--• "- - "«--

Such is a very cursory view of the Bcttlemcnt. The va=t oce-in of lnv„l
prau.,e which lies to tho west of J(„d Kiver must bo see . ], rC^rd
..ary aspect to be rightly valued an.l understood in refercn o to i^ 7u „ 1'
occupation by an energetic and civili.s,.,l race -hU t„ ;„™.

capabilities, and appreciate its marvellous" bcauJies ^ "" ''"'

The philanthropic Lord Selkirk established this interesting settlement

206

ACROSS AMERICA.

m 1812, chiefly with Scotch emigrants, to whom ho afterwards added a
hundred disbanded soldiers. The colonists had manv difliculties to
undergo, and in 1816 a serious conflict took place between them and the
Indians employed by the North West Company, when many were killed
on both sides. In 1821, when the North West was mer-ed in the Hud-
son's Bay Company, their chief trading post was established in it and
numerous half-breeds settled there. In 1856 the population amounted to
6,523 souls, the increase being of half-breeds, and many families of
Canadians and Europeans had, during the last previous years, quitted the
settlement.

A large number of the half-breed population spend the summer in
hunting the buffalo — an exciting occupation, which sadly unfits them for
the more regular and important business of agriculturists, and many are
fast relapsing into the wild and uncivilised life of their ancestors. How-
ever, we must not stay longer to describe the settlement, but we must be
off over these level pra,iries to the west.

We engage some siiiall carts and a wagon, with horses and guides,
and load our wagons with our tents, instruments, provisions, cookin*^
apparatus, and clothes, and, above all, with two birch bark canoes, capable
of carrying several people, each canoe weighing 150 lbs.

Our party consists of the four gentlemen already named, six Cree
half-breeds, a native of Red River of Scotch descent, one Black-foot half-
breed, one Ojibway half-breed, one French Canadian, and an old hunter
of Cree origin, familiar from his youth with Indian habits and strata-
gems. Our provisions consist of 1,000 pounds of flour, 400 of pemmican,
1,000 rations of Crimean vegetables, a sheep, three hams, a supply of tea
for three months, with a few luxuries, such as pickles, chocolate, a gallon
of port wine, and a gallon of brandy. Each cart carries about 450 and
and the wagon 900 lbs. Thus we number in all fifteen men, fifteen
horses, six Red River carts, one wagon, and one ox, which we take in
case we do not succeed in killing buffaloes when our meat is expended.
We are fairly off on the evening of 14th June.

On the 16th we reach Prairie Portage, beautifully situated sixty miles
west of Fort Garry, on the Assinniboine. Here a mission has been esta-
blished under Archdeacon Cochrane, and a settlement commenced which
will bo one day of importance, on account of the vast extent of fertile
country which surrounds it, because it is in the track of the buffalo
hunters proceeding south and west, and because it is also near the fertile

ACROSS AMERICA,

207

wards added a
difficultieg to
1 them and the
ly were killed
d in the Hud-
hed in it, and
n amounted to
ly families of
rs, quitted the

lie summer in
mfits them for
and many are
3stors. How-
it we must be

3 and guides,
iions, cookins
moes, capable

ed, six Cree
ack-foot half-
.n old hunter
ts and strata-
Df pemmican,
supply of tea
late, a gallon
bout 450 and
men, fifteen
I we take in
is expended.

1 sixty miles

IS been esta- |

enced which |

nt of fertile I

the bufialo '^
r the fertile

region drained by White Sand River, while the road to tlie timber-
covered Ridmg Mountains passes near it. Tiie prairie hero is of the richest
description, and towards the nortli and cast boundless to the eye

The river bank is fringed with a belt of fine oak, elm, ash, and ash-
leaved maple, and on the south there is a forest of four miles in depth.
The river abounds with sturgeons and gold-eyes, and within ci-hteen
miles, m Lake Manitobah, vast quantities of white fish are cau-ht.
We have taken two days to accomplisii these sixty miles, and probably
from thirty to forty miles a day is as much as horses and carts, even sup-
posing relays, can be expected to perform.

TKAIEIE rOETArxE, ASSINNIBOIXE IlIVER.

We advance cautiously in certain localities, on the look out for Sioux
Indians, who would probably attack us if they found us unprepared We
are exposed to several very severe thunderstorms, when we are oblic^ed
to camp, as it is impossible to make head against them. We find al^o'the
traces of locusts, and meet with them also in immense flights. Here as
in Africa and Asia, they completely destroy all herbage on which thev
settle. •'

^ Our course is towards Fort Ellis; i.nd now wo push on, two days'
journey or rather more, to the Little Saskatchewan river, and al)out the
same to Fort Ellis. Hence we have a distance of about 320 miles to per
form to reach Carlton House on the North Saskatchewan, a distance'
which it takes us about ten days to perform with perfect ease. The
shortest road is not always tiavelled over the most rapidly. It is 'of the
first importance that a road of extent so great as that across America

208

ACROSS AMERICA.

: fhi,

III

1
I

g
1

o
a
h
c
M

M
h
■w
ct

should pass through a fertile region, capable of affording food to the settlers
who must of necessity be placed on it, and to the travellers who pass

along it.

Now we must especially draw attention to the map drawn by Professor
Hind, published in his account of the Assinniboine and Saskatchewan
Exploring Expedition. There exists a belt of land, the greater
part known as the valley of the Saskatchewan, varying from sixty
to two hundred miles in width, in a semicircular form, and extend-
ing from the Red River Settlements, which it embraces, to the very
foot of the Rocky Mountains. The western portion is watered by
the North Saskatchewan, the eastern by the Assinniboine rivers. To the
north, on the portion we are now going over, are tlie Riding, Duck, and
Porcupine Mountains, all well timbered, with numerous navigable lakes and
rivers on the other side of them. A groat portion of these two large
rivers are navigable for steamers, inueed a large number of the rivers and
streams running through the territory are navigable for boats, so that
settlers will find water communication from one point to another equal to
that to be found in any part of Canada itself.

Throughout this vast belt there exists either a rich pasturage, land
peculiarly adapted for agriculture, or well, though not densely, timbered
country. The climate, too, is admirably suited for agriculture, and healthy
in the extreme. The winters, though severe, are short, and, owing to the
ample moisture of the climate when spring commences, vegetation pro-
ceeds at a rapid rate, and all the products of Upper Canada are produced
in perfection. It is through the centre of this fertile territory that the
road to connect Canada with British Columbia must be formed.

There is already an easy cart tra^l over which we are now proceeding
from Fort Garry, past Fort Ellis to Carlton House, on the north Saskat-
chewan. By keeping rather more to the south, so as to strike the elbow
of the north branch, a more direct road will be found to Edmonton. Near
the elbow is Fort Pitt, and hence Mr. Kane, whose journey I have before
described, rode the whole distance to Edmonton on horseback. From
Edmonton he proceeded, partly by land and partly by river, to Jasper's
House at the base of the Rocky Mountains, and over them, an easy pass for
horses, to Boat Encampment on the Columbia River. To this river a road
is in course of formation to Shouswap Lake in British Columbia, whence
steamers are about to run to the Fraser River. However, the Vermilion
Pass is considered more suitable for carts than that above Jasper's House.

Weh(
^5 River
I thmg
I succe(
j prepa:
1 veyor
then
where
These
for af
points
placec
not or
j of the
j fishen

'> also fi

I soon I

I in the

J partia

} howe\

i colon}

I probal

the be

very (

canno

safety

and a

lakes

perfor

have

equipi

with I

journe

are inl

will dc

formec

Coloni

requiri

I l!l

ACROSS AMERICA.

80»

1 to the settlers
Hers who pass

n by Professor
Saskatchewan
I, tlic greater
ins from sixtv
B, .ind extencl-
3S, to the very
is watered by
rivers. To the
iing, Duck, and
igable lakes and
these two large
f the rivers and
r boats, so that
mother equal to

pasturage, land
ensely, timbered
ure, and healthy
lid, owing to the
, vegetation pro-
ida are produced
jrritory that the
rmed.

now proceeding
e north Saskat-
strike the elbow
Edmonton. Near
ey I have before
jrseback. From
iver, to Jasper's
, an easy pass for

this river a road
olumbia, v/henco
T, the Vermilion
3 Jasper's House.

We hope to find a better line of road by keeping near the course of Battle
Eiver, and thence along the upper portion of Red Deer River. Of one
thing we are very certain, that before any large body of emigrants could
succeed in passing along the very best route to be found, considerable
preparations must at no small outlay be made. In the first place, sur-
veyors accustomed to explore the country should decide on the route ;
then stations not more than fifty miles apart should be established,
where not only horses can be kept, but ultimately a population sustained.
These stations should therefore he selected with reference to their fitness
for agricultural operations. Of necessity they would bo placed at all
points where rivers must be crossed. Here also passage boats must be
placed. These stations or forts must of course be supplied with provisions
not only for the persons in charge of them, but for travellers. To many
of them provisions may be conveyed by water. At others, hunters and
fishermen may be sent to catch and salt buffaloes and game of all sorts, as
also fish. Cattle would by degrees be driven to them ; vegetables might
soon be grown ; and potatoes, as well as other crops, might be produced
in the course of a year or two ; and pigs and poultry reared, to afford
partial, if not sufficient, provision for their support. These arrangements,
however, can only be made when the territory is erected into a British
colony, and this most desirable act should be performed without delay,
probably as a portion of British Columbia, which would then extend from
the borders of Canada to the shores of the Pacific. Of one thing we are
very certain, that under existing circumstances, satisfactory arrangements
cannot be made to convey any large bodies of emigrants with the ease and
safety they require. Until the vast valley of the Saskatchewan is peopled,
and a well defined road is formed, with steamers placed on the rivers and
lakes from Fort William to New Westminster, the journey will not be
performed by any body of people in two months, even should the posts I
have spoken of be established. Under present circumstances, a well-
equipped party, carrying only provisions and tents, if under a good head,
with military discipline and sagacious guides, may undoubtedly make the
journey without accident in the course of the summer. However, all who
are interested in the progress of Canada, as well as of British Columbia,
will do well to exert their utmost influence to get the Saskatchewan territory
formed into a British province without delay, and then Imperial as well as
Colonial money will be most advantageously employed in forming the
required means of transit across it. Great as might be the expense of

•ACROSS AJIESICA.

forming such iv i-oaJ, a largj iutorast ivm.l.l „» Z T"?"

traffic which must inevitably sXun- T'^ be obtained by the
William and the Kcd Kiver :s ooenfl ' ^ T/ "'" "'"= '"^'"'^™ '^'"'^
pastures to the west will puru."f'toT,/ ' '"• ''"'""' "^ ""= »«'■
were township, to b; fonn^dt e cToft e poarriT" °' ''"""■ '"<''^^^'
land sold at a low price, almost a nomin^ va e wiror"""-"'-,™' ""^
is most probable that the posts would be folmed T r^^'^So^' ''

or no expense. Wagon and coach proprietors hot w'""""' "' ""'°
and coach makers and wheelwri-rht, Tr/ ^ '. •""■■'' "'"Ponters

and butchers, besides farmer l^tien: It/Lr'h'":'""^"' '"'^"'
their way to the different posts. EverrcrZalre^^^^
to gardeners especially to settle at thn no«t» »„ "=™™' s"ouId be given
vegetables. Each pos"^; might be *7plld TJ T "'"""' ''^P'^'
officer of the Hudson's Ea; Company and L > "/=" "^ " '"'''"^

made on condition that tho'^ownT "Lus toTcerfr' '"""/''"■"^ ''"
military discipline, which would be e'ireJ*" '''"^

tempting the hostility of the Indians ^ ^'■''™' "'° "^'^ °f

However the subject is too important to be discus,.,! „.„ ,
present, and demands far more time than we can .iveTt wf "^ ^ ^ ■■"
wonderfully few difficulties on our pro-ress thou"h wm f ™™"ter

Everywhere rabbits are numerous We IZ^ T """"^ •■'<'™"tures.
locusts, or grasshoppers as the/a^ LreTaMr„m:r:"="-^:rtV if
pass over our heads, appearing like silvery elori! • .i ^"f ^'S'"'
voracions are they that they destToy eve y artkle of ctol ' . f^' ^"
grass. Saddles, girths, leathern bags, and elotts le t'"° f °'\ ""=
distinction. Ten minutes suffice them, as th balle dITnd .T t^"'

left^t^rxr '-'' '' "-'- — which^ :a::eies:; tz

lead colour, according to the nnrnhprc: .1 *^' ash-gray and

Opposite to'the sun Llrtlm^^lZ' ,11 trwh^f ^'^"'^ '' ^"^^^*^-
ing. The hum produced by so marxi it Tf ' continually flash-

sounding somewhat like a ringTn'rouT "" ItT"f " "^^--^'^^^H
awe and uneasiness, as if some CiM: ^ mit^^ TCJ , t^ ^'
ihese grasshoppers will prove, we fear, great fo^s to thof . ^P^"!'

turist of these rP^ions unL- mpan- ,. ^'' f/ ^"^"""^ ^Sncul-

We fall in ^UhZ 7l . "" '''"^^ *^ exterminate them.

We fall m with elk and deer, and wolves and buffaloes, and our hunters

One

I a hill i

I disappi

I hear ti

night, 1

will b(

1 diately

breeds

after t

Ml-

ACROSS AJIERICA.

obtained by the
ine between Fort
aring of the rich
)f them. Indeed,
[proposed, and the
ther privileges, it
iintained at little
epers, carpenters

boatmen, bakers
be found making

should be given

ample supply of
trge of a retired
' land should bo
unt of necessary
'nt the risk of

sed properly at
Wo encounter
)me adventures,
ling-birds, and
e. Vast flights
the sky. So
ing left on the
voured without
s find to their
carelessly been "

nit, we see the
I, ash-gray and
iids of insects,
itinually flash-
indescribable,
s a feeling of
5ut to happen,
uture agricul-
te them,
d our hunters

211

succeed in killing one of tlie latter animals. We meet with them after-
wards in large numbers.

The picture we hero give will afibrd an exact idea of our encampment.
At night iires are lit, and we assemble round them to cook our provisions,
and to escape mosquitoes and other insects, whicii their smoke keeps away!
Our horses are turned loose, as we know that they will not stray far. Wo
send out scouts first to ascertain that there arc noKed-skins in the neic'h-
bourhood, as they will steal our animals if they can.

EXCAMPMEI'fT IS THE QU'ArPELLE VALLEY.

One night, one of the half-breeds sees a creature approach the brow of
a hill about twoliundred yards off. After gazing at the encampment it
disappears. The next night, while at supper, some of our party distinctly
hear the neigh of a horse. This, with the occurrence of the previous
night, makes us sure that we are watched by Sioux, and that an attempt
will be made to steal our horses. Our camp fires arc put out imme-
diately, the carts placed close together, and a watch organised. The half-
breeds do not anticipate an attack until the approach of dawn ; but, soon
after ten o'clock, several horses who are feeding in the valley, about a

i> 2

212

.(JB08S AMEmCA.

hundred yards fr*w U8, suddenly gallop towards th. carts, provin<. that
the Indmu« ar. iv*ar us. On hearing the horses app.oa.h, the me.rstar
up and run to stop thorn. This they ..cceed in doing before thoy pa.s
the carts. LaC. k^se is now tathered to a cart or stake, and the half-
breeds, crawhng tlvn,,,^/ the Jong grass, arrange themselves in a half
circle, about seventy yard, from the carts, each with his gun loaded with
buck-shot. The n.ght is dark, and perfect silence is maintained in the
camp. Towards morning, one man comes in to report that he heard
sometlung cross the river, and crawl through the grass within a Ce^v
yards of him I e waited a few minutes for more to follow, before ho
hred or gave the alarm, and then cautiously crawled through the Ion- -ra^s
m track of the, "something" which had passed near to him. Tl.: Track
led h.m to within thirty yards of our tents, and then turned towards the
river, and evidently crossed it. Morning soon dawns, and the other watchers
come in; we examine the tracks described by the half-breed who had
first heard the intruders, and they are pronounced to be those of an In-
dmP Further examination, in full daylight, shows that we have been
surroundet ,y a band who, however, perceiving that we were on the alert
and that tl-e horses were tethered, made no attempt to ^teal them Had it
not been for these precautions, we should undoubtedly have lost them

We proceed on for a considerable distance, when we hear that a lar-e
body of Crees are encamped in the neighbourhood, and with a view to
secure a favourable reception, send a messenger to announce our arrival
and to express a wish to see their chief.

^ After the lapse of some time, we see about sixty Cree horsemen gallop-
ing towards us, many of them naked, with the exception of tlie breech
cloth and belt. They are accompanied by the chief's son, who informs us
that in an hours time they will escort us to their camp.

They are about constructing a new pound, havin-' literally filled i^e
present one with buffalo, and being compelled to abandon it on account
of the stench which arises from the putrefying bodies.* We sit on the
ground and smoke until they think it time for us to accompany them to
their encampment. The .'.lief expresses a wish, through his son, that we
should see them entrap tlie ^ * Halo in this pound ~ a rare opportunity few
v/ould be willing to lose.

We pass through the caa.p u- ..i place whie' the chief's son points out
and there erect our tents. Tae v. omen are still employed in movin- the
camp, being assisted in the operation by large numbers of dogs, each do-

il!i:

ACROSS AMERICA.

1'13

9, provin;^ that
I, the men start
}fore thoy pass

and the half-
^Ivcs in a half
un loaded witli
ntained in the

that lie heard
i within a few
low, before ho
the long grass
m. TJie track
ed towards the
other watchers
»reed Avho had
hose of an In-
vve have been
•e on the alert,
them. Had it
lost them.
ir that a large
viih a view to
ce our arrival

•semen gallop-
of the breech
'^ho informs us

■ally filled f?:e
it on account
We sit on the
pany them to
3 son, that we
portunity few

»n points out,
n moving the
ogs, each dog

having two poles harnessed to him, on which a little load of meat, peni-
miean, or camp furniture is laid.

After another smoke, the chief's son asks us if we would like to see
the old bufTalo pound, in which during the past wok they have bei n
entrapping buffalo. We accept the offer, and a guide leads us to a little
valley, through a lane of branches of trees, which are called "dead
men," to the gate or trap of tiie pound. A sight most horrible and dis-
gusting breaks npun us as we ascend a hill overlooking the pound.
Within a circular fence 120 feet broad, constructed of the trunks of trees
laced together with withes, and braced by outside supports, lie tossed in
every couciivable position above two hundred dead buffaloes. From old
bulls to calves, animals of every description are huddled together in all
the forced attitudes of violent death. Some lie on their backs, with eye^
starting from their heads, and tongue thrust out through clotted gore.
Others are impaled on the horns of the old and strong bulls, others again,
which had been tossed, were lying with broken backs, two and tliree
deep.

The Indians look upon the dreadful and sickening scene with evident
delight, and tell how such and such a bull or cow exhibited feats of won-
derful strength in the death struggle.

The flesh of many of the cows has been taken off, and is drying in the
sun on stages near the tents. The odour is overpowering, and miUions of
large blue flesh-flies are humming and buzzing over the putrefying bodies.

After the first run, ten days ago, the Indians drove about 200 buffalo
into the enclosure, and are still urging on the remainder of the herd, when
one wary old bull, espying a narrow crevice which has not been closed
the robes of those on the outside, whose duty it is to conceal every orifice,
makes a dash and breaks the fence, the whole body then runs helter skelter
through Mi. gap, and dispersing among the hills, escapes, with the excep-
tion of eight, who are speared or shot with arrows as they pass in their
mad career. In all, however, 240 animals have been killed. The mode
of pounding buffaloes is very similar to that by which wild elephants are
caught in Ceylon.

From the pound two lines of trees are placed, extending to a distance
of four miles into the prairie, each tree being about fifty feet from the
other, forming a road from one and a half to two m-iles, gradually narrow-
ing towards the point. These trees are calhd dead men. Men are also
concealed near the trees, and when the hunters have succeeded in driving

214

ACROSS a:\ierica.'

a herd into the road, they rise and shako their robes should ni^TT^
animals attempt to break away from it ^

At the entranee of the pound there is a strong trank of a tree placed
^out a foot from the ground, and on the inner side an exeavation is made
suffie,ent ly deep to prevent the buffalo from leaping back ,vhen o„"e t
the pound. As soon as the animals have taken the fatal spring, they be, °
to gallop round and round the ring fence, locking for a chan e o e 'eape
but wuh the utmost s leneo men, women, and children hold their robe;
before every onfice until the whole herd is brought in. They then climb

therear of e buffalo spear or shoot with bows and arrows or fire-arm,
at the bewddered animals, now frantic with ra"e and terror o„ fl T
themselves unable to escape from the narrow Ihnlts " the ^o^d °

In consequence of this wholesale and wanton destruct on the bufr,I„
has greatly diminished in numbers. The old chief tell us uL,

are, and the buffalo thick as the trees in the forest."
Mr. Kane, in his " Wanderino-s of in Ar.fJc+ " •'
»^t Of a ..alo bunt, and mentioL^ ^ n^L: Zl^^^

sance wbt^h shows the necessity of c^stablishing B itilh f le i "the"
country. Wlule accompanying the baud of half-bLd hun ers - Brit sh
subjects, ,t must be remembered, sons of British fathers -one of t^^eir

2v had'/r-'r" '"""' -urdered- supposed bv Sioux-, wi^Ltm
hey had then been at war for several years. " Three da^s afterward"

St rt^f, ^ '"/ .™"'^ """""S them, which brought down

^ L, T ' ^'"'^"^' """"Si' several must have been wounded as

much blood was afterwards discovered on their track " ™"'""=<l. ««

This fact alone speaks volumes. The half-breeds and Sioux are still at
lormer would be looked upon as foes -but on far higher grounds we

'uld any of the

a tree placed,
vation is made,
< when once in
ing, they begin
ance of escape,
)ld their robes
licy then climb
3vved closely in
^'s or fire-arms
ror on findinjr
oiuid.

3n, the buffalo
us that he re-
le buffalo now

ist graphic ac-
saw killed on

aent alone are
3, gives an in-
i rule in the
ers — British
- one of their
:, with whom
ys afterwards
liately a hun-
ig themselves
kvo as decoys,
er, supposing
d half-breeds
-ought down
wounded, as

X are still at

scort of the

grounds we

ACROSS AMERICA.

257

THE EEO KIVEB AT PIEEEE GLADIEUX'S.

ACKOSS AMEEICA.

(Continued from p. 215.)
We were on our journey from the Red River Settlement to the Rocky
Mountains, over which we hope to pass without much difficulty into
British Columbia. The pass, we understand, is forty miles in length. On
the western side we expect to find a road forming, if not completed,
by Governor Douglas, extending as far as the Columbia River, either from
Lake Shouswap or Lake Okanagan. Thence, partly by road, and partly
by steamers, we expect to get down to New Westminster. *

Before, however, we proceed farther on our journey, we must give an
idea of the productive power of Rupert's Land. We cannot do so better
than by describing a visit Mr. Hind pays to a proprietor, "a native," that
is, born in the country, of French descent, M. Pierre Gladieux, on the
right bank of the Red River, five miles south of Fort Garry. He shows
us his farmyard, barns, garden, and cattle. We see four peastacks,
several wheatstacks, and five or six haystacks, all of fair dimensions,
neatly arranged in the stack-yard, while the cattle-yard is tenanted by a
number of cows, pigs, horses, and poultry. His peas were sown on
May 7, and reaped on the September 2o. We are provided with
an excellent supper, and our horses, seven in number, are well

* These cuts are kindly lent by Messrs. Longmans from Professor Hind's most valuable
and interesting account of the Red River and Saskatchewan exploring expeditions.

258

ACROSS AMERICA.

supplied with hay in the yard. Next morning a sumptuous breakfast is

ftTr Hind" d""- ^'fr ^^T '''-' "^^* ''''-' foulwneeled ctX
at Mr Hmd s disposal for several weeks. He refuses all payment

btiU more successful is an honest farmer from England Mr Tnhn

Gowler, visited by Mr. Hind. "His turnips were magn1fi:e;tf ;u^tf

them weighed 70 lbs.; two weighed 39 lbs. ; and two others 31 lbs. The

potatoes surpassed in quality, quantity, and size, any I had ever seen

be ore Mr. Gowler turned them out of the soil wherever I pointed

thrte IjTl't I - !'"'*''"' '"^ "^^*^^" P°*^*«^«' --^raging
three and a half inches m diameter, at each root respectively. They

were planed on June 1, and ready for carriage on the 16th or 18th

of May, and the fruit gathered about September 1 ; onions of rare di-
niens^ons were in his garden. Indian corn succeeds well with

him. The substantial character of the barn, stables, and piggeries, con-

IT^I ^TV''''''Tr' ^"' ^^^^"^^"^^^' *^- arrangemeits of
the hammels for sheep, and sheds for cattle, were admirable. Note this

He sowed 63 bushels of wheat, 36 of barley, 24 oats, and 10 of potatoe '

. :':V^''' ^' ''^^'''"^ ^^ ^"^^^^« «f ^h^'*^*' 350 of barley IsO oa '
and 2 100 bushels of potatoes. The cost of the ^eed was 50^Zmtl
and t, ling thn, 25/. ; gathering in and thrashing, 100/. ; totlLpend^
ture, 17o/. Le active young farmers in England, who cannot find farms
to rent at any price, turn their eyes to Rupert's Land, where they may ere
long purchase any amount of ground at a merely nominal price

Industrious men alone are required to collect hay sufficient to feed anv
amount of cattle. We see large haystacks in all directions, and we also
see m some places enclosures offering to the eye perfectly level plains of
waving gram or luxuriant pasture; but, as a rule, the inhabitants of the
Ked River are not good agriculturists, with the exception of a few Scotch
settlers. We hope, however, that they will have wisdom to prepare for
the tide of immigration which will assuredly set that way ere Ion- A
strong Scotch plough would drain what they call marshes, and turn°them
mto the richest pastures and hay privileges. When we reflect that the
farther west we proceed the more genial is the climate, we may form an
Idea of the productiveness of which this superb territory is susceptible.

Wheat ^s the staple produce; the good quality of the grain is well and
widely known^ It is ready for the sickle in three months from the date
ot sowing. Hay, quantity unlimited, and quality exceUent. The prairies

ACROSS AMERICA.

lous breakfast is
vneeled carriage
)ayment.
fland, Mr. John
lificent ; four of
3rs 31 lbs. The
[ had ever seen
t-ever I pointed
toes, averaging
ectively. They
3 16th or 18th
sown at the end
ons of rare di-
eeeds well with
piggeries, con-
rrangements of
Jle. Note this.
10 of potatoes,
arley, 480 oats,
>0/. ; preparing
: total expendi-
mot find farms
e they may ere
[•ice.

nt to feed any
s, and we also
level plains of
ibitants of the
■ a few Scotch
to prepare for
ere long. A
md turn them
Bflect that the
may form an
s susceptible,
e settlement,
u is well and
rom the date
The prairies

215

would urge the importance of establishing an authority to prevent the
subjects of our Queen from shedding each other's blood.

To return to the buffaloes. Although they may disappear, it is satis-
factory to remember that the rich pastures which fed them will equally
support the domestic cow, sheep, oxen, and horses, and we ^.nd "that in
many districts horses can remain out the whole winter and find food for
themselves.

Our journey is not nearly accomplished, but for the present wo must
bnng our account of it to a conclusion. In the meantime I must beg my
readers to try and bring before their minds' eye this magnificent country,
abounding in resources which would make it the happy abode of civilised
man, now lying utterly useless, but which the cxpendUure of a compara-
tively small sum would throw open to British industry, and would
literally and truly bring within twenty days of Liverpool. The work
proposeu would add greatly to the wealth and importance of Canada, as
well as to the value of British Columbia, and tiie province would then
become the high road to China and the numberless islands and wide
extending shores of the Pacific.

^^^

INDIAN HUNTERS' TENTS IN THE HEAK OF FORT GAEKY.

r 4

ACnOSS AMEEICA.

————_______ 259

abundant.; To,aJi:J:jrZ^2TL^^''' '"''' ™'^
and attain large dimensions Ha^ln, , ! '"''^' 8ro«r well,

All garden veielaileTZuZlJi^rl f '"'" "'^ ""* '"'"='' «"l"™te<J.

by the prodiions on^^lT.ZtZtorVrT' '' T' "^P"''^^'
quantities of sugar are made from t^! f '*''?'""'"'""'• Considerable

were c„lti™ted^o a elidetbt x^^'rl^^P';.' f ^ ^ '^'"^
Simpson, but thoueh of pt^„ii;,;V ,• " ^ ^ instigation of Sir G.

for want of a malet It i a T ,'•?' *" •="'""''*'™ ''"^ -i>'-<"«''l
were there means of maH„g Iti^o Z^Cs' u' fT' i""""' ""-^
attention would bo given to^tlie „ ng rf t' L. ' *'°- ^."'""■
such goods aro required for tho fur trad! A™ -« ^"^ 1"''"""'=^ "'^
««< to take possession of the land Uwould L ! 1' ""'^'■'""' '<"»'''^

somebody to estam, ic.^ orTa^ding f„C t^T^.^-- ^«
spinning and weaving also. *'' ^' ""^ ''y^'^S' P^^^iiaps

JSirc^;x:tTmr ^ '"-"'r' ^-^^'^ *^« p'-o of

impediments, arising f"mato o?!^ '''"? "'"^^ ^''^ »» Phy^'""'

Eupert-s Laid from' becl1™to of l"b: t'lf' ™°' *'^ ?''"™^ °^
world. Introduce European Li^.««L • . !f ^ '"^ countries in the
machinery they have br 1?^ 'T^l47:Z ^^ fT^'l

trhTcutard^aT^/^/ir," r'^"^^^^^^^^^^

ance between thoRfd-R^^str^CnutdlTalfr:^^^^^

and without muoii difflcultv bo d!rJt!.i • f ' "™P"''y""=''«''S8'

need scarcely observe tha tho ^ 'f • " "" "^^'^^ <"^'«'»^'- T^«

Company, J.o'^l^MVu i^Zl rH ^ ''" """^""'^ ^''^
trically opposed to such a hnn„v„i^ ,., Paramount, are diame-

kings Vd' barons '<:de:T:''Tul:r "■"i"'^^ "^'"^ ^—
poi^Jxr airrab-: ?:i:\r nfttrr ■'^' -'■' ---

opened up, wiU prove a friend n,:,i . ^ *' *^^ ''°'"'*'y' ^heu
Caoada. Make the road tZ ^o ZT' "', "f," " P™""^'' *°
Canada wiU obtain an amp,:Vp pVlf hidrj^ .^t. ^/f' ""^
wool, and hemp, and will find «. «n-« « i "\ " '^' ""^ "^^^' ^^^
manufactures. ^ShaU it he soror^CUt^t ;:;:^::yt ^: X

SCO

ACROSS AMERICA.

ft >
(

are content to live the precarious lives of hunters, and to dwell in skin or
bark-covered tents, as do the Crees and Ojibways of the present moment?
We must give an account also of a visit paid, in the fall of the year, to
a missionary station at Fairford. We left the Selkirk settlement on
September 18, on board a freighter's boat, the largest kind of craft
then navigating those waters, and proceeded down the Red River into Lake

SKIN TENTS, CEEE; BIECHBAEK TENTS, OJIBBEWAY.

Winnep-^g. Thence we steered nearly north along the lake till the 25th,
when, turning south, we entered the Dauphin River, known also as the
Little Saskatchewan ; then we crossed St. Martin's Lake, and entered the
Partridge Crop River, at the end of which, on the afternoon of the 29th,
we reached Fairford. It is prettily situated on the banks of the river]
about tv.ro miles from Lake Manitobah. Here is one of the Church
missionary stations, an account of which we give in Mr. Hind's own
words:— "We attended evening prayers in an excellent school-house,
which serves the purpose of a chapel. There were forty persons present,'
consisting of Indians and half-breeds. The service comprised a hymn
and a chapter from the New Testament, respectively sung and read in the
Ojibway language; an exposition of the chapter by means of an inter-
preter, and a concluding prayer: the Lord's Prayer was repeated aloud in
Ojibway by the whole congregation.

dwell in skin or
(resent moment ?
1 of the year, to
<. settlement on
kind of craft
River into Lake

ACROSS AMERICA.

:e till the 25th,
wn also as the
md entered the
m of the 29th,
1 of the river,
3f the Church
r. Hind's own
school-house,
ersons present,
jrised a hymn
md read in the
IS of an inter-
>eated aloud in

2(51

" There are one hundred and twenty Christians, adults and'diuiw^
this miss.on. The houses, fifteen in number, are neat, comfortable, and
in excellent order and several new dwellings are in process of erection.
The appearance of the mission is very promising, and in every way most
creditable to the unceasi.^ labours of the zealous missionary, the Z
Mr Stnp. Miss Harriet Thompson, a young lady from my native place,
Nottingham, is residmg at the mission, and devotes herself with exemplary
industry, m connection with xAIrs. Stagg, to the education and care of
Indian and half-breed children. It was a very unexpected and pleasant
incident, m those remote wilds, to meet a young lady, so recently from

FAIEFOED, OE rAEXEIDGE CHOP.

herself to her difficult task in the right way. Although only a few

ZotnC T Tf"' t '"."^''' considerable progress in the L,ua,e
spoken by the Indians who visit Fairford, and I was much surprised and

Player in the Ojibway tongue, leading a score of dusky worshippers, who,
m the absence of that commiseration which made this incident possiblo
would hi all probability have still been worshippers of ManLtLrslfvt
to a degrading superstition, in place of possessing a growincr faith 'in

B 3

262

ACROSS AMERICA.

;vi3

'Our Father, which art in heaven.' The farm nf +J,o\«- '^'^~~.

capital order , a„a, although the area adapted rout vat on rZ rl T
to induce the establishment of a large settLent, yet Fdrford In. 1 ^ ^
an important centre. We wpre »,.n„i;„,i -^i. '^ J^a'itordwiU become

A little fleet of canoes arrived dnrino- +v.« «,r^«-

sound, of drunken revelry told how tSthrahf •"'•'« "'^''''■''" *''^
traffic must operate again't the Chris af'J\VmttTnlT„r"" V't'
missionary. The distribution of intoxieating T^^ "^^^teTd- '
appeared to be a subject of deen anxietv „n5 * t. ! Indians

Stagg. Mr. Stagg's .i^siou is ^:Z:^;iZ:lv'Tl'JTc^''- »f
post established that the Indians might benefihv.,;. ■ I ^""P^-y's
fear not, or the officers in charge woufd „oTfa e foltp^^ "^^^^^^ ^^

ttetrer;:tert,'^r^:tf:r-''"---~

ve. liberally to the .Z^^^^U^^^ "1^:7^:^^

"The impression was irresistibly forced iinnn m« j t ^
strongly felt by some residents in Ee'd Zj, th t thr^ro;'! „ TbV'
tianity among the Indians would be rather aided than othS ifl
aries were not to receive any assistance in the form of a„ anlll ""."
from the Company. Perfect freedom of action ™ induciri^d "'"/
settle, in the education of Indian orphan children and H ^ f ^
»d adults the blessings of a sej, Cfe'^: Xf T, tt'^f """
/««</<« tofer'. life, are essentially necessary het^'mZ^^'^rf ° *
progress can be made." "^cessaiy betore much satisfactory

See Hind's Exploring Expedition, vol. ii.

p. 38.

t Ibid. vol. i. p. 210.

ACROSS AMERICA.

mission is in
on is not likely
ord will become
)nions, turnips,
entertained by

is mission (not
1 it is a matter
tlieir furs here

^t nightfall the
fluence of this
ifluence of the
' the Indians
the Rev. Mr.
be Company's
rations ? We
;o the natives,
il interests of

the truth of
England, that
fistianise the
Y contributes
^e doubt not
as Governor

I found it
ss of Chris-
e if mission-
dual stipend

Indians to
iching them
jposed to a
satisfactory

'• i. p. 210.

263

When, too, the officers of the Company have assisted missionaries to
Eelec sites for missions, they appear to have done so on spots where there
IS only a small amount of ground fit for cultivation, so as to render a
setllement of any size impossible. Of course it cannot be to the interests
of a fur-tradmg company to encourage settlement, and without settlement
the advancement to any extent of civilisation and Christianity is imprac-
ticable. Therefore it follows that the system of the Company is decidedly
antagonistic to the progress of Christianity, although they subscribe 450/.
to the income of some clergymen of the Church of England, who do not

FREIGIITEK'S BOAT.

speak the Indian language ; 50/. to the support of a Presbyterian minister
and 100/. to the Koman Catholic bishop and clergy. The true missionaries
speaking the native languages, who go forth to seek the Red Men in
their native wilds, and who would, in time, convert them into Christian
settlers, are not encouraged. The clergymen whom the Company does
assist to support are those ministering to their own retired officers and to
white settlers.

We returned through Manitobah Lake, landing at the south end of
which we journeyed over the prairie to the settlements. Our craft,

S 4

264

ACROSS AMERICA.

ill

Once more we resume an account of our journey.

Day after day we travel steadily on, sometimes chasing the sun at others

5=a";:t:^:^,!td-^^^^^^^^^^^

n^ake according to ,he information we receive from th; wesl

We find, with the only means at our disposal till a road is formed and
posts are established that from twenty to twenty.«ve miles as much as

Tccur TV .?r ■"/'" -^^y-^^™ ^''O"" no accident or impedimen
occur. The distance from the Eed River to tlie base of the Roc.v J oun
tains on the east, is 800 miles, and therefore we cannot expec^to .ei

thl ; r ?' ''?" .'''"•'^•"^ ''='^^' """"g"' P^b^Wj we shall be m°re
than forty about the journey. Then there is the pass to be crossed"!

BHt- rcllf '•""* "'-' -" ""^^ *» '^ -* 'y -- S'lW

As we proceed, we mark spots suited for settlements, where amnle nrn

Trcer,""'"';^ "^"^ '""'■ ''■•^ *'-^ "•« est^blisheirZ/
Thence relays of horses may be furnished, and the less hard^ travellers

ZT V u. '"■'° """^ "^' '■"'^ " '■'^''^ -^V^ on their journey We look
out for healthy spots on laud suited for agricultural an^ pastoml purp ses

Z'^TZZt- "" '"' '™'^ " '""" -=— iolting w.K:;

Our route, it must be understood, is not the most direct but it i,
through that fertile belt, which we have before described ,tr.t;h'
a semicircular form from the Lake of the Woods on rt. ' f"'=!'.'°S '"
of 90O miles, to the Rocky Mountains on thJr: " B • ht fL S
which It IS proposed to win from utter waste and neglect, for the use o

Sr! "'"''fJ-*^'^ "ch territory, where now heathen sava.;es ruth-
kssly and uselessly slaughter thousands of buffaloes annually.Ilnflnitl
more than they require for food-but whicl, territory i, „ , in M „
used hii tho /«,. * ^ .1 • ^ i-iii-usj IS Uyjt, in the sense

used by the fur traders, t/mr hunting ground. Where the hunters seek

ACROSS AMERICA,

Strongly built,

sun, at others
»f the Assinni-
'^e weather the
r west for the
^er and Battle
)uth along the
on Pass, or the
vhich we shall
t.

is formed and
is as much as
)r impediment
Rocuy Moun-
expect to get
shall be more
i cz'ossed, and
' friends from

re ample pro-
'd, be found,
dy travellers,
ij. We look
►ral purposes,
g with other

ct, but it is
itretching in
it, a distance
s fertile belt
r the use of
hoped, may
vages ruth-
— infinitely
in the sense
unters seek

265

the otter, the beaver, the mink, the martin, and the other animals in whose
skins they trade, are not the regions where civilised man hopes tc find
a habitation. They are on the more barren districts to the north, on the
shores of the numberless large and small lakes and rivers fallin- into
Hudson Bay. We believe that not one mink or otter or martin the less
would be caught, if the whole of the fertile territory we have described
were settled upon ; if there were villages of happy industrious white men
and civi ised Christianised Indians, at intervals of twenty-five miles across
the whole of that vast continent.

When we come to speak of the Hudson's Bay Company, we have every
wish not to wound the feelings of any member of it. Its officers are
honourable intelligent gentlemen, and all of those filling the hi-her posts
must possess qualities much to be admired ; while undoubtedly Us affairs
have been managed with a sagacity never surpassed by any trading com-
pany. But we must never forget that it is a trading companv, and that
its interests must appear of necessity to be opposed to settlement and the
real civilisation of the Indian races and the half-breeds. Its existence
depends on two objects : first, it must possess a race of hunters subservient
to Its will J and, secondly, it must retain the monopoly of trade in those
terntories. In respect to the monopoly of trade, it has already rivals,
who have pushed across the border in spite of it, and who are rapidly and
surely destroying the Indians with their « fire-water ;» and no^v we find
that the Company, that it may compete with these free-traders, sells « fire-
water" likewise. At present, indeed, two alternatives for the Red Men
only exist : they must either be civilised by the establishment of civilised
and Christian men among them ; or they will dwindle away, as has been
the fate of many of their tribes. Their only hope is in becoming Chris-
tianised and civilised.

The sagacious directors of the Company, of course, see as clearly as wo
do, that its authority over this fertile region, so suited for settlement, is
drawing rapidly to a close, and it therefore seeks to make the best bar-ain
that It can with the British Government, or rather with the people of
England ; but it undoubtedly far overshoots its mark when it asks the
sum of 1,500,000/. as compensation for abandoning what may, in reality
be found to be the illegal authority claimed by it. It asks this enormous
sum for allowing settlements of British subjects to be formed in the
territory, and for affording a ^r better chance "than heretofore of spreading
Christianity and civilisation among the natives. The Company boasts

260

ACROSS AMERICA.

that its officers have civilisc<l'th<r,;^es greatly. UndoubMl^X"

r;rM:etra"rr""-

havfreJspraTtlol^u^t^ofn";- *"•,"'''"''"" """^ """' ?'«<=«<=- ?
Christians wWn. <>f Christianity among thorn? are there any

Ls loLdt „of"ThT r "?"" "° -n-ionaries? We answer!
Men to aitef th ; oltZrZs^'T:' "" r?"'""^ '■™- "^^ "^"^

«nd the Indiana served Ze';; J '■^^Ct T''" """'•'? '^'"'
wiHi tlincr. r.„ , "'=1'^ puipofetb. iiaa the missionaries interfered

n lonarv f r~ u f'^ '""^™''*'"* "'« I"'''"" '•™"' hunti„g_Tot
of view mav iu» Iv hi > . I!' "" ''"''""=' *^°'' "''»'• '" " ^™'Wly point

boundlr e of It 1 •"'^''°''' *■*' ™"' «'^P ^"' ^e to define the

w th r^Zl *! 3 P"""""- Ho™ '^e differ from Captain Palliser

itshoXni::::;:hrn:da"^^ixrr^^

We can,hleL3h* .hTrt^' should despair of its settlement.
Lake „f Af-n T ' ? """ ^^ "'« ™y of Thunder Bay, Dob Lake

an e:s;'eommn^::t-^ ""'f ^^'''^' ^^'"^^'"'«' --^ 1""'-^ '"^ ^-d i
n easy commnnioation can be speedily opened up at trifling cost Th=^

Canada Coldt- <h "'"^"' '° *'""' ^-^ " '''"'^y «'«nding from

undertaking Wi-UefiroT- ' "'!' ""'."""^'^ P^^P"^"""- "^^ *^
,. Wmter is the time when the hardy lumberers (wood-

owapeopleXrrM-- 47 " 71'"° ° Company, obtained a chaplain J hi,
hood. ""' ""Woned tl» missionary to the Indians in liii neighbour.

ACROSS AMERICA.

2tl7

cutters) of Canada fell the trees and di^hem oyer the frozen „oun.lT„
the nvers down which they are to b« floated. If a sZ/pZ of
lumberers were sent up to Dog Lake, and a steam saw-mill e ted not onlv
:n,ght a p ank road bo formed between Lake Superior and Dol L k bu^
so nnght he proposed tramways between the latter Lake anl TeMul
Lae , a, also along the numerous portages of the River Seine du, nV„' '?
winter. Tins is not a work which allows of delay. ItsTmnortann. ^
very great. Wo have rivals close at hand who w uld aeeomnltrtho
wMe .n a tenth part of the time we have taken to think aborit °

Hudson Bay Company's post at the entrance of Lake Superiol when

Ito n' Urf '°r' V" ^""'"""^ *° oonneetTa dLa
Huron. 'Ah ! it makes my heart bleed and my cheek, bl.,=i. •.■

a amo whenever I look at that work and think wLtrd'grt u'o
us British not to have formed it on this side, which is by ?ar the most
practicable more su table and more important in every way." H wcTof
we hope that in this instance the Imperial and Canadian Go "rnment:
will take a lesson from the past, and prove that, when they try they can
distance our war-maddened cousins .across the boundary ^

It IS estimated that 50,000/. would be the entire cost of formin.- the
whole route of oOO miles between Lake Superior and Eed Kiver Cst
Red River, femes and bridges and post-houses would be more required
th.an. roads lu the first instance. The whole of the 800 miles we fS
sure, would be supplied with these requirements without any cos to the
Government, by leaving them to the enterprise of individual if placed
under the general super- - ' P'^^cea

intender.ce of Govern-
ment officers — the ne-
cessary posts having been
previously selected. As
traffic increased, maca-
damised and plank roads
would soon follow be-
tween village and village.
When once these posts

I are established, and food for man and fodder for horses stored up wint^
would not put a stop to travelling. On the contr.ary, it would rfrenbe
the time chosen for traversing the continent. The ^dian dogs would

2G8

ACROSS AMERICA.

however, we suspect soon be discarded, and horses, and perhaps even
reindter will be introduced. At present one mode of travelling in winter
is on snow shoes.

They are very light, between three and four feet long, and strapped on
by leathern thongs, allowing of a certain amount of play to the heel.
After some practice, walking in snow-shoes becomes very pleasant, and in
Lower Canada both ladies and gentlemen make long excursions in them,
as undoubtedly will those who may, ere long, inhabit this country. At

DOG CAEIOLES.

present a journey in winter is performed in a cariole or sleigh, drawD by
three or more dogs, with a driver who runs or sits behind. Three dogs I
if well fed will draw SOOlbs. forty miles a day for twelve days in,
succession. Each dog requires 21bs. or 31bs. of white fish daily.

A cariole is constructed of a very thin board, ten feet long, and twelve
or fourteen inches broad, turned up at one end in the form of a half circle.
To this board a cradle like the body of a small carriage is attached, the
highest part being eighteen inches from the end of the board or floor. The

nd perhaps even
irelling in winter

and strapped on
lay to the heel,
pleasant, and in
ursions in them,
lis country. At

TROLLHATTA.

260

framework is covered with buffalo skins, parchment, and painted and de-
corated according to taste. The inside is lined with a blanket or buffalo
robe, and when the traveller is seated in this cariole with outstretched
legs, he is only separated from the snow by the thin plank which forms
the floor. The dogs attached to a cariole are generally decorated with
collars from which bead-work and tassels are suspended, together with a
string of small bells.

When a train is in motion, the driver runs behind the cariole, guiding
it by means of a loop fastened to each corner of the floor, when tired he
sits on the travellers' small box, which is nearest to the projecting floor
behind the body, or if no box is there, he stands on the board. A winter
road is of the breadth of the floor of the cariole. To form a new road
when the snow is deep, a half-breed walks on snow-shoes, some distance
in front of the dogs, which follow his track through all its windinfrs.
After four or five trains have passed, it is considered to be sufficiently haM
pressed to admit of the easy passage of the succeeding trains. As it would
be difficult to carry tents and impossible to fold them in the mornino-
travellers select a wood for the sake of shelter and fuel for their camp, and
then making a fire sufficiently large to allow of the feet of all the party
to be turned towards it, thus go to sleep, rolled up in their blankets. If
spruce-fir it at hand beds are made with the branches, and sometimes huts
are erected. More frequently huts are dispensed with, and it is wonderful
how hardy people become when living entirely in the open air.

eigh, drawn byj
d. Three dogs
;welve days in
daily.
)ng, and twelve |
of a half circle.
} attached, the I
rd or floor. The

RUPERT'S LAND THE HIGH ROAD TO BRITISH COLUMBIA.

S09

RUPERT'S LAND
THE HIGH ROAD TO BRITISH COLUMBIA.

THE WHOLE QUESTION IN A NUTSHELL.

West of Lake Superior, a line commencing at the 48th parallel of lati-
tude, rising at the west end of the Lake of the Woods to the 49th, and
running to the Rocky Mountains, forms the boundary between the United
States and British Central America, or Rupert's Land. A very small
portion of this vast territory belongs to Canada; over the rest, extending
for about 1,200 miles from east to west, and 700 or 800 from north to
south, watered by rivers which, after courses of many hundred miles, find
their outlet chiefly in Hudson's Bay, the Hudson's Bay Far-trading Com-
pany, by virtue of a charter granted in 1670 by Charles II., claims to be
Lord-paramount, and to have the exclusive right of trading, and of selling
or leasing land. The legality of this charter is contested. This terri-
tory is inhabited by about 40,000 Red Indians, 6,000 half-castes,
descendants of white fathers, and by about 3,000 white men, the greater
number of the two last residing in a district stretching for thirty miles along
the banks of )he Red and Assinniboine rivers, known as the Red River or
Selkirk settlements, and which are some 600 miles south of Hudson's Bay.

The Company has about seventy trading posts in Rupert's Land. At
the principal. Fort Garry on the Red River, a governor resides, ruling a
district of fifty miles on either side, called Assinniboia. The vast re-
mainder is utterly without law.

Great ignorance has prevailed respecting Rupert's Land. It was sup-
posed to be useless, except as producing the fur-bearing animals, and that
the Rocky Mountains were almost impassable. The Canadian Govern-
ment, however, in 1857-58, sent out two exploring expeditions under
Professor Hind, and at the same time the British Government^' despatched
Captain Palliser, Dr. Hector, and others, who remained till 1860.

They explored the whole of the territory, and report that certain passes
of the Rocky Mountains are practicable at all seasons ; that one exists
through which a wagon-road can be formed with sliffht labour, and
that through another a railway may be formed ; that a Fertile Belt
OF Land, from 50 to 100 miles wide, extends for 900 miles, from near the

X 3

810

I I '

'I
I

miPERrS LAND THE HIGH ROAD TO BRITISH COLUBIBIA.

in separate forests. streams, and

Beh thi!°T"^ "'' °"°"'*'' '""' ^-^ Productions e^isis over the Fertile
Belt, tliougl, improving towards the west, even in a higher latTtL?!
at a greater elevation. The soil consists of elay! k!m id " t;,''"''

rmsr/f "':■'" 'v '""^ ^^"^•-■'' -eSaidwXtich 4

laoic mouicl of from two to five fppt tTiiVlr ti t . . , ^^^" vt^o*^
perfect!, suited to British conllitlTtions The tl^it^t :t:%'::'*^' 1"'

rtte7„nS::rn?trn"ir"t^^^^^^^
.o^:;::r::iedt-.-;ji""^^^^^^^

grea est success. A variety of Frui^ grow wild, such as t Jw'.
ra^err^es, currants, gooseberries, Md rice, &c. Melons ar» Z'yZ'
g-w,.,s ,„ u.e open air. Sugar is manufactured from the maple "tree

UMBIA.

■ving a thickly-
h, to the north,
hundred miles

rcled by rivers

brought to it

ind in the Belt

d streams, and

^er the Fertile
r latitude, and

and marl, in
h a rich vege-
3 healthy, and

five months,
winter is very
•eals and most

?e amount of
■er. In some
3ses supply in
re oak woods,
^rations have
d the tradinsr
e staple pro-
ftentimes 40
iclia?i Corn is
Bcially Pota-
large dimen-
m vegetables
t Oats, when
ijuantity un-
» is success-
3 is brewed
ted with the
ftraioberries,
e very ?,ne,
iple tree.

^UPERT^AND_THE IIIOII TIOAD TO BRITISH COLUMBIA.

311

hides, tallow, flax, hemp. ^ '^'"'' """^ ""'''' '""•»<'=' "'"ol.

Je:rti"i:::te't'o? sit:: " --•r..--"^ -^ ^-a

When v.s.t.ng the trading post,,, intoxication indiaposes them to I'Z'
The Company', system the refo™ destroys tho Indians, and prevents ttk
setthng and becoming Christians. P' events tueir

The Company demands one million and a ImlP ,>n,„,j. r t , .
its claims over Enperfs Land. However a"! ^./BertUsTro'
posed to colonise furnishes but a "maU proportion f But „ robes"
and a very few other skins, they being found chiefly on theTkes and
nvers to the north, and tho Buffalo to tho south, it will be more than com

posts wil obtain provisions, and tho advantageous channels opened «n for

sta't: ':uf.?^rf.:: ttl:,rrtr: ™"' ^™'" *'- ^'^^

daiiriVi. c.fn X 1 ooununiy is the commencement of the

Selkirk sttement ; and commerce flowing naturally in that direction
England is losing all trade with the «ettloment8 <iirection,

folV^T-''- ?f '" '""' ""''^' '^'' ^"'*^^ ^""'''^ *'>^ half-castes mi^ht be

Tff atcomT ? "r"' "'" "^"^'^ "•^'^"^-^- ^^^^'-^^ ^^olumbia, and cu
oflf all communication between Canada and tho PnnJf;. B-'f-'h -nnr'

tural settlements would make this impossible "' "° '

It will be unlike every other colony, by being a Great Highway, and

X 4

312

BUPEBT-S LAND THE HIGH ROAD TO BRITISH COLUMBIA.

.J <;

pii

^1* •i

.<! . -i

While enriching its neighbours, it will be enriched by constant traffic
hrough .t It will be the Great Pastoral and gLx District of
the north, to supply the gold regions of British Columbia with meat and
corn, and will speedily become a profitable market for British and Cana-
dian manufactures.

England's first duty towards the Indians will be to establish settlements
ottTrr' 'T""'T "" ^'''^' ^^•'""^' ^^'^ '""'y communications to
Inufrct^^^^^^^^ " '''* ^'^^ "^^^ ^""^ ^ °^^^'^^' '^^ *^-- P-<^"- or

The first step towards colonising this territory is to open up a direct

COMMUNICATION THROUGH LaKE SUPERIOR WITH CANADA. A Steamer

eaving Liverpool may, with a sea-voyage of eleven days, and five days
through rivers and lakes, reach Thunder Bay, the west side of Lake
Superior, Hence there is a broken navigation, with forty miles of land,
and three hundred and sixty of water, to the west side of the Lake of
the Woods. This can, it is estimated, be opened up for traffic by roads
tramways, steamers, and boats, for 50,000/., so as to be traversed in three
days by passengers,, and with goods in six.

toTZTnl^ ninety miles to Red River, and onwards eight hundred miles
to the Rocky Mountains, it is proposed to establish a series of posts, or
small settlements, through the centre of the Fertile Belt (on a surveyed
line suited ultimately for a railway), about 25 miles apart, at each of which
about thirty people of different callings will at once be settled. The first
care of these settlers will be to establish inns and post-houses, ferries or
bridges^to level steep banks, and to throw plank or corduroy roads over
marshes. Regular roads and means of rapid transit will soon follow. Be-
fore, however, a first step can be taken, the territory must be erected into
a Crown Colony; and to effect that object, all, both in England and
Canada, who desire their country's welfare, who wish to benefit the long-

st?enutus eff'r '" "''''' '^ ^"^^^^ ^'^^^ ""^^^'' P^^^^^^^^^' -<^ -«^
Mark ! the objects are to form the true north-west passage, the long-
sought-for direct highway between England, Canada, and China, to pro-
tect British Columbia on the east, to open up a valuable field for settlement,
to establish a market for British and Canadian manufactures, and to
prevent the otherwise certain destruction of the native races. Ultimately
a railway may be formed from the Atlantic to the Pacific.

IIBIA.

onstant traffic
r District of
s^ith meat and
sh and Cana-

ih settlements
unications to
r produce or

up A DIRECT

A steamer
nd five days
side of Lake
nilea of land,
the Lake of
Be by roads,
rsed in three

undred miles
of posts, or
a surveyed
ach of which
1. The first
es, ferries or
y roads over
follow. Be-
erected into
England and
fit the long-
ig, and most

e, the long-
ina, to pro-
• settlement,
ires, and to
Ultimately

316

INDIAN SETTLEMENTS IN NORTH JAMERICA.

INDIAN SETTLEMENTS IN NOETH AMERICA.

Can the Red Men of North America— the native inhabitants of those
fertile and wide-spread regions of which the Anglo-Saxon race have
taken possession, and over a large portion of which the British Govern-
ment claims dominion — become civilised, so as to take an equal share in
the affairs of any community of which they may form a part ?

It is a very important question, and must be answered in a satisfactory
way if a great national crime is to be avoided, and 'a whole people saved
from destruction. We can at once point out how they cannot be civilised ;
how, by sure and not slow degrees, they may first be degraded, and then
be made to disappear from the face of the earth, their non-existence a
lasting stigma on the Christian nation whose duty it was to preserve
them. Collect them in some locality remote from other settlements, where
they cannot see the advantages of industry, where they have no markets
for any articles they may produce, build huts for them, give them as
much food and clothing as will take away any incentive to labour;
deprive them of their usual occupations and amusements ; place a person
over them who despairs of the amelioration of their condition— who is
oppressed with the dreary isolation of their local position, and it will be
proclaimed by all who care nothing for their fellow-creatures, that the
attempt to improve the Indians is useless. Or, allow spirits to be sold to
them in unlimited quantities ; place them in situations where it is only by
constantly following the dangerous and wearing life of hunters that they
can obtain spirits; and by a three-fold process they will speedily disappear
from the face of the earth. The fire-water kills them at the trading-
stations; hardship while hunting; and starvation during their winters
sojourn in their tents. This latter process, at which angels may weep
and spirits of evil rejoice, is triumphantly carried on at the present day
in Rupert's Land. The system first described, though more humane, yet
sadly injudicious, has been tried with melancholy results in Canada.

Then, what can be done, the philanthropist will ask, with these unhappy
people ? We reply that the opportunity has presented itself of proving
whether or not the Redmen of North America can be rescued from
barbarism. England possesses a vast tract of fertile laud to the north of
the 49th parallel of lattitude, stretching from Lake Superior to the Rocky

INDIAN SETTLEMENTS IN NORTH AME- ^CA.

347

[CA.

ts of those

race have

sh Govern-

aal share in

satisfactory
eople saved
e civilised ;
d, and then
existence a
;o preserve
ents, where
no markets
^e them as
to labour ;
ce a person
n — who is
d it will be
3s, that the
) be sold to
; is only by
s that they
Y disappear
16 trading-
ir winter's
may weep
)resent day
umane, yet
nada.

36 unhappy
of proving
3cued from
le north of
the Rocky

Mountains, over which but a few savages at present roam. It is of the
greatest importance, for political, as well as many other reasons, that a
means of uninterrupted communication should be established forthwith
across the continent j and tnis can only be done by the formation of aline
of posts or settlements, of sufficient size, an'", sufficiently well placed, to be
self-supporting and capable of self-defence. It is advisable, undoubtedly,
that the larger number of these settlements should be inhabited chiefly by
white men; but supposing the white posts to be fifty miles apart, there
would be ample space for intermediate stations between each to be
exclusively native. At once the Red men would find ample employment
in pursuits suited to their tastes and habits. They would breed and tend
the horses required for the traffic on the road; they would act as
postillions and drivers ; they would take charge of ferries across rivers
carry mail-bags, &c. Cattle would be in demand, and they would keep
them. They would cultivate the ground, and keep pigs and poultry, &c.,
for they would find a ready market for all farm produce ; indeed, the
advantages of the various trades and callings produced by civilisation
would be brought so clearly before their eyes, that they would be eager to
learn them. Indeed, what has hitherto ever been wanting in all the ex-
periments for ameliorating the condition of the Indian, a re«/ and /JOM;er/«/
incentive to exertion, would exist. Before any settlements are formed, we
strongly urge the necessity and justice of purchasing the lands from the
natives, who can show a fair claim to them ; but we as strongly urge the
importance of not paying the money over to them in any form, but
devoting it to the purchase of food and clothing, cattle, sheep, seed,
agricultural instruments, &c. ; to the erection of dwellings and school-
houses, and finally churches ; to the payment of school-masters and trade
instructors. If chiefs can be found willing to settle down at once, we
would endeavour to instruct them, and to place them in a position to
obtain the respect of their people. We would leave it to the missionary
societies who have long been labouring in that deeply-interesting field,
to send out religious instructors to occupy the stations as they are
formed, when they would" have the right to claim the support of the
government.

The very first step therefore to be taken, after the territory is erected
into a Crown Colony, is to send out proper persons to point out to the
native chiefs the advantages of the proposed plan, and to arrange for the
fair purchase of the territory. We believe that a small sum would alone

348

POETRY. -HOPE.

■ecattered over it. Attor "oT^' tZ\T 7. '"''°''"»'' "<> found
formed, some of the more intellLt 1^ T "" ^^»"™»'-' have been
should be induced to visit them that the! """™"*' '"'"™^ &««. Canada
remove there. The most str.T.'eit relu Ir^' ''''""''' *'''" ''"=*''ren S
he =a!G of spirituous liquors to the nftite, ."""'' ^' P"^'"' '» P^^Wt
can be thought of must be held out T !'T^ ^^"^ indueement whieh
■node of life as hunter. By the Jan '' *'""° "^""-^o" 'heir frmer
can at „„ „^^,^^ ^.^^. ^ f;/J;" P™P°-<J> i* is obvious that they

for themselves and families, while as tw^ "=' '"'®'''™' «"PPO't

may beeome possessed of compe tenev a„7 """" ■■" "'-"'nation, they
of the New Zealanders are aTnresZ ° '" '''"'«'' «°'=i <« nu^bera
heir fellow-men be up and do'n?aldTf "'°" ^'''"' '^' "" -"o 'o™
opportunity of redeeming the past' be 0*.^.^ "^ ■ "°" " S'"""-" ■»
the t,me-to.morrow it may be too late """'^'■"^^''y ='way. Now is

..*'