CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

JUs*.

Canadian Institute for Historical IVHcroreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographlques

The Institute has attempted to obtain the best
original copy available for filming. Features of this
copy which may be bibliographically unique,
which may alter any of the Images In the
reproduction, or which may significantly change
the usual method of filming, are checked below.

D
D
D

□ Coloured maps/
Cartes gdographlques en couleur

□ Coloured ink (I.e. other than blue or black)/
Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire)

Coloured covers/
Couverture de couleur

Covers damaged/
Couverture endommagde

Covers restored and/or laminated/
Couverture restaur^e et/ou pellicul6e

Cover title missing/

Le titre de couverture manque

D
D
D

Coloured plates and/or illustrations/
Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur

Bound with other material/
Reli6 avec d'autres documents

Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion
along Interior margin/

La reliure serrde peut causer de I'ombre ou de la
distortion le long de la marge int6rieure

Blank leaves added during restoration may
appear within the text. Whenever possible, these
have been omitted from filming/
II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajout^es
lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte,
mals, lorsque cela 6talt possible, ces pager, n'ont
pas 6t6 film6es.

Additional comments:/
Commentaires suppl6mentaires:

L'Institut a microfilm^ le mellleur exempiaire
qu'il lui a dt6 possible de se procurer. Les details
de cet exempiaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du
point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier
une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une
modification dans la mdthode normale de filmage
sont indiqu6s ci-dessous.

I — I Coloured pages/

Pages de couleur

Pages damaged/
Pages endommagdes

Pages restored and/oi

Pages restaur6es et/ou pelllculdes

Pages discoloured, stained or foxe(
Pages d6color6es, tachet^es ou piqudes

Pages detached/
Pages ddtach6es

Showthroughy
Transparence

Quality of prir

Qualitd indgale de I'impression

Includes supplementary materii
Comprend du materiel suppl^mentaire

Only edition available/
Seule Edition disponible

I — I Pages damaged/

I — I Pages restored and/or laminated/

I — I Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/

I — I Pages detached/

I — I Showthrough/

I — I Quality of print varies/

I — I Includes supplementary material/

I — I Only edition available/

Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata
slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to
ensure the best possible image/
Les pages totaiement ou partlellement
obscurcies par un feulllet d'errata. une pelure,
etc.. ont 6t6 film6es d nouveau de fa^on d
obtenir la meilleure image possible.

This Item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/

Ce document est filmd au taux de reduction indiqud ci-dessous.

10X

14X

18X

22X

26X

30X

^_^

A:]

19X

16X

20X

24X

28X

32X

'•■^JBlliWil'Mii'iiwir""'''''''"'

m m m^

laire
s details
lues du
It modifier
iger une
e filmage

The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks
to the generosity of:

Library of Congress
Photoduplication Service

The images appearing here are the best quality
possible considering the condition and legibility
of the original copy and in keeping with the
filming contract specifications.

L'exemplaire filmA fut reproduit grAce h la
ginArositA de:

Library of Congress
Photoduplication Service

Lea images sulvantes ont AtA reproduites avec le
plus grand soin, compte tenu de la condition et
de la nettetA de l'exemplaire fiimA, et en
conformity avec les conditions du contrat de
filmage.

d/
iu6es

Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed
beginning with the front cover and ending on
the last page with a printed or illustrated impres-
sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All
other original copies are filmed beginning on the
first page with a printed or illustrated Impres-
sion, and ending on the last page with a printed
or illustrated impression.

aire

The last recorded frame on each microfiche
shall contain the symbol -^ (meaning "CON-
TINUED"), or the symbol y (meaning "END"),
whichever applies.

Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at
different reduction ratios. Those too large to be
entirely included in one exposure are filmed
beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to
right and top to bottom, as many frames as
required. The following diagrams illustrate the
riethod:

Les exemplalres originaux dont la couverture en
papier est imprimAe sont filmfo en commenqant
par le premier plat et en termlnant soit par la
dernlAre page qui comporte une empreinte
d'impression ou d'illustratlon, soit par le second
plat, salon le cas. Tous les autres exemplalres
originaux sont fllmte en commengant par la
premiere page qui comporte une empreinte
d'impression ou d'lllustration et en termlnant par
la dernlAre page qui comporte une teile
empreinte.

Un des symboles suivants apparaftra sur la
dernlAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le
cas: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUIVRE ", le
symbole V signifie "FIN ".

Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre
f llmte A des taux de reduction diff Arents.
Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre
reproduit en un seul cllchA, 11 est filmA d partir
da Tangle supArleur gauche, de gauche A droite,
at de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre
d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants
illustrent la mAthode.

by errata
[lied to

lent

une peiure,
fapon d

32X

PUBLISHERS' NOTICE.

The Publishere take great pleasure in presenting to the public a new
edition of the CTOLOPiBDiA OF Modern Travel, enlarged by the import-
ant narratives of

Dr. Bartta's Travels In Central Africa;
Dr. lilTlnirston's Travels tn.Soutliem and Central AfMca;
and

Atkinson's Travels In Siberia and Chinese Tartary;
Which have been issued since the publication of former editions of
this work: the volumes are embellished by a finely engraved portrait
of Mr. Taylor, and also by steel engravings of Scenes in Japan, sketched
during his visit to that country. The author's preface to this edition will"
be found in the second volume ; and in this connection a letter from Mr.
Taylor is printed, without his knowledge, which fully explains itself, and
renders unnecessary any further remarks by the Publishers.

Nkw Yobk, Aug. 5, 1859.
MooKK, WiisTACH, Kbts k Co.

GenOemen : In reply to your inquiry as to what portion of the " Cyclopedia of
Modern Travel" waa prepared by me, I beg leave to state that of the fifty-eight narra-
tives of exploration which it now contains, forty-five were prepared exclusively by my
own hand, from the original works. The remaining thirteen were compiled by two
literary friends, under my own direction, and were afterward carefully revised by me.
The work, therefore, contains an amount of personal labor, such as I have never be-
stowed upon any other single volume. I have . conscientiously endeavored to permit
each author to speak for himself as much as possibla and am convinced that no im-
portant portion of any narrative is omitted. The work is as full and exact as its limits
allow, and I know not where else the same amount of information with regard to travel
is to be found in the same compass.

Tours, truly,

BAYARD TAYLOR,

be public a new
i by the import-

ral AfMca;

■tary;

ner editions of
igraved portrait
Japan, sketched
this edition will'
I letter from Mr.
plains itself, and
s.

Aug. 5, 1859.

lie " Cyclopedia of
le fifty-eight narra-
I erclusively by my
e compiled by two
"nlly revised by me.
i I have never be-
deavored to permit
vinced that no im-
1 exact as ito limits
■ith regard to travel

ARD TAYLOR,

W^'m-

* <

i \

)'Z

JtUt

■i^iiP"^""— ••

^/^/^^Xfe

CYCLOPjEDIA of modern TRAVEL:

A BIOORD or

ADVENTURE, EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY,

FOR THE PAST SIXTY YEARS:

OOMPBIgmO

NARRATIVES OF THE MOST DISTINGUISHED TRAVELERS SINCE THE
BEGINNINQ OF THIS CENTURY;

t/'

PBIiPABBD AND ABBANOED BT

BAYAKD TAYLOR.

ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS MAPS AND ENGRAVINGS.

RBVISBD AND BNIiAROBD BDITIOST.

COMPLETE IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOLUME I.

NEW TOKK:
MOORE, WILSTACH, KEYS & CO.,

49 WALKER STREET.

OINOINNATI: 26 WEST FOURTH STREET.

18 6 0.

i^O. //^ ^^

Enterod, woordlng to Act of Oongrow, In the year 1888, by

MOOliK, W1L9TA(!II. KEYS A CO.,

I„ the Clerk', ofllec of the Dlatrlct Court of the United State, fbr the Southern D Utrlot of Ohta

X $ 2^

Entered, according to Act of Oongreee, In the year 1869, by

MOOBB, WIL8TACH, KEYS & CO.,

In the Clerk', Omce of the Dbtriot Court of the United Stat ee for the Southern Dl .trlcto^hlo.

StlOTttOTTPSD ST

THOMAS B. SMITH.

!<ft^%^«rt{«Amws#6^

irnDiitrtotofOUo.

srn District of Ohio.

■ - lil a «» », |i . »i f '

iJlRtf^WWrtStWP^'i*'"'^' -

V-

ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT,

THE OLDEST ANI» THK MOST KKNOWNKD OP LIVINii TKAVKLKK8,

THIS COMPRNDIirM OF THK KE8ULTS OK MUDKKN
TRAVEL AN1> EXPI.OBATI ON,

^eberentln Instrtbt^i.

vumnHMmmm

liiMSaaS»W'^j«>;«j«pa?!ipasf^ps3i8^(5jv^ ii^i^nngs^^'-iK^it^'^ith:-

PREFACE.

The present century is emphatically an age of exploration and
discovery. At no period since the days of Columbus and Cortez
has the thirst for exploring new lands been more active and univer-
sal than now. One by one the outposts of barbarism are stormed
and carried ; advanced parallels are thro^vn up, and the besieging
lines of knowledge, which, when once established, can never be re-
taken, are gradually closing round the yet unconquered mysteries
of the globe. Modern exploration is intelligent, and its results are
therefore positive and i)ermanent. The traveler no longer wanders
bewildered in a cloud of fables, prepared to see marvels, and but too
ready to create them : he tests every step of the way by the sure
light of science, and his pioneer trail becomes a plain and easy path
to those who follow. The pencil, the compass, the barometer, and
the sextant accompany him ; geology, botany, and ethnology are
his aids ; and by these helps and appliances, his single brain now
achieves results which it would once have required an armed force
to win.

In nothing is this change more manifest than in the character
of the narratives of modem travelers, as contrasted with those of
the past three centuries. The old travelers had all the wonder and
the credulity of children, and were scarcely less naive and unembar-
rassed in the candor of their relations. They made their works a
complete confessional of their experiences ; they >vithheld no secrets
from their readers, and in their account of the customs of strange
races they frequently descended to details which the extreme deli-
cacy of modem taste would not allow. Their volumes are singular
compounds of personal experiences, historical episodes, statistics,
and reflections on the laws, religions, and habits of hfe of other
races of men, interwoven with many wonderful stories, and with
the most extraordinary conjectures and speculations. Their con-

ilKi'^*'«S^iSjl*t%-?*3|«!i?*^W»<?^^>i«S«P5?;^*^

PREFACE.

Bcientiousness in describing all .vhich they saw, and their readiness
in beliovin- all which they heard, have subjected most of them to
the charge°of exaggeration, if not of positive falsehood; yet aiany
of their most extraordinary statements have been fully confirmed
in our own day, and there is scarcely a single instance where
any old traveler of repute has been convicted of wiUiul lab-

"''''The modern traveler, on the other hand, is characterized by
scepticism rather than credulity. He is much more mtcrested m
Bolvinc Bome problem of physical geography, or m illustrating some
favorire scientific theory, than in tales of -gorgons, hydras and
chimceras dire." As the ends of the earth have been brought to-
gother, through the extension of commercial mtcrcourse and that
magnificent system of colonization which is the leading feaiurc of
modern histoiy, he is no longer obliged to masquerade m he dis-
cuises of other races than his own, but bears about him the dis-
tinguishing stamp of his nationality. He is thun ess truly ^ cos-
mopolite than his prototype of two centuries back, ^nd^^^J^ 1^^«
delineations of nature are in most cases as exact and faithful as
possible, he gives us less of that intrinsic human nature which lends
such a charm to the story of the latter. There are some exceptions
it is true, the most remarkable of whom is M. Hue, who exhibits all
the simplicity and sincerity of the early Jesuit missionaries ;
and the reader can not help being impressed with the conviction
that he tells us nothing which he does not himself honestly

^ But in the accuracy of their observations the travelers of
modem times are pre-eminently distinguished. It is no longer the
testimony of a pair of eyes which is offered to us ; it is also the con-
firmation of instruments as unerring as natural laws, which photo-
eraph for us the climate, the conformation, the scenery, and the
Sbitants of distant lands. Mountains have been measured and
the enormous abysses of the ocean sounded; «^-P« ^ ^<> ^^^
an unmeaning plane surface, but the central piatoaus of cent nents
and the terraces of mountain ranges take then: proportionate levels ,
Ist^Les which formerly displayed but the imperfect resemblance
of a child' attempt at drawing, have now the clear and certa m
outiine, the perfect profile of an artist's hand, and every feature in
Jhe panorama of our globe is growing into new and l>eautiM <^ -
tinctnTs These vast results are exclusively the product of our
Iw day. Humboldt, the founder of Physical Geography, stiU
S^s to rejoice over the discoveries of each successive year ; Agassiz,
XLTrranged the geographical distribution of the animal king-

mMMM

PREFACE.

their readiness
lost of them to
oocl ; yet iiiany
fully confirmed
instance where
of willful fab-

haracterized by
re interested in
llustrating some
jns, hydras, and
)een brought to-
course, and that
ading feature of
erade in the dis-
out him the dis-
Icss truly a cos-
;k, and while his
t and faithful as
tture which lends
some exceptions,
, who exhibits all
lit missionaries ;
th the conviction
limself honestly

the travelers of
t is no longer the
it is also the con-
iws, which photo-
scenery, and the
en measured and
laps are no longer
laus of continents,
)portionate levels ;
jrfect resemblance
clear and certain
d every feature in
and beautiful dis-
lie product of our
I Geography, still
ive year ; Agassiz,
f the animal king-

doras, and Maury, who has sketched the inequalities of the beds of
oceans, ascertained their currents, and organized the apparent chaos
of the winds, live among us ; while a host of co-workers, in all
parts of the world, arc daily contributing materials toward the
perfection of those grand systems which attest the supremacy of
Man over the material universe, and the majesty of that Divine
Wisdom to which the order of creation moves.

A comparison of the maps which we now possess with those of
fifty years ago, will best illustrate the achievements of modern
exploration. Within that time all the princ'^ml features of the
geography of our own vast interior regions have been accurately de-
termined ; the great fields of Central Asia have been traversed in
various directions, from Bokhara and the Oxus to the Chinese
Wall ; the half-known river systems of South America have been
explored and surveyed ; the icy continent around the Southern
Pole has been discovered ; the North- Western Passage, the ignis-
fatuus of nearly two centuries, is at last found ; the Dead Sea is
stripped of its fiibulous terrors ; the course of the Niger is no longer
a myth, and the sublime secret of the Nile is almost wrested from
his keeping. The Mountains of the Moon, sought for through two
thousand years, have been beheld by a Caucasian eye ; an English
steamer has ascended the Chadda to the frontiers of the great king-
dom of Bomou ; Eyre, Leichhardt, and Sturt have penetrated the
wilderness of Aiistralia ; the Russians have explored the frozen
shores of Northern Siberia, and descended from Irkoutsk to the
mouth of the Amoor ; the antiquated walls of Chinese prejudice
have been cracked, and are fast tumbling down ; and the canvas
screens which surrounded Japan have been cut by the sharp edge
of American enterprise. Such are the principal features in the
progress of modern discovery. What half-century, since the form
of the earth and the boundaries of its land and water were known,
can exhibit such a list of achievements ?

The design of this book is to present a compact, yet as far as
possible, a complete and satisfactory, view of these results. So far
as I am aware, no work of the kind has yet been undertaken.
When it was proposed to me by the publishers, to whom the original
idea is due, I at once recognized its utility, and as the preparation
of it, though involving a considerable amount of labor, was con-
genial to my tastes and pursuits, I agreed to complete it previous
to setting out on a new series of travels. As it was the object of
the publishers to produce a work which should possess j)ermanent
value as a book of reference, and yet be sufficiently popular in its
arrangement to interest the great mass of readers, who desire some-

PREFACE.
X

thing more than a dry statement of facts, while its cost should not
place it beyond their reach, I decided to let each traveler tell his
own story, mainly, confining my own labors to the nccessaiy con-
densation, and to the selection and arrangement of the diiierent

narratives. . . -i i x • i j

The limits prescribed to mo rendered it impossible to include
under the head of ''Travels," the many voyages of exploration
which have been made during this ccntun^, and which have con-
tributed so richly to its record of discoveries. Those of Ross, Parry,
Cecile D' Urville, Wilkes, Beechy, and others, extendmg over
lone, periods of time, would have required much space m order to
present a complete summary of their results. I determined there-
fore, to confine myself to the works of travel and exploration by
land and oven in this field the material was so rich that to have in-
cluded every traveler who has attained some distinction smce the
beginning of this centuiy would have rendered necessary a much
more barren and encyclopaedical arrangement than I have thought
proper to adopt. The reader, who is interested in a, traveers
achievements, naturally desires to hear them t<>ld ^ his own lan-
guage and characteristic manner, and I preferred selecting the most
prominent narratives-those which are, in some measure typical of
the various fields of exploration-and omitting those which are of
less importance, or the disclosures of which have been superseded
bv later travelers. For the same reason, where the story of a man s
travels is the story of his life, I have given the article a biographical
character, as in the case of Burckhardt and Mungo Park Alex-
ander von Humboldt, from the position he occupies, justifies the
same departure from the original plan of the work. No com-
plete and connected account of his journeys has ever yet been

^"^ Mvpriacipal difficulty has thus been the very richness of the
materials at my disposal. I have taken great care to prevent the
work of compilation from becoming mutilation-to distmguish be-
tween that which is of limited or special importance, and that
which possesses general interest and value. I can not suppose that
I have always succeeded, and am prepared to hear my judgment
questioned on many points. The general usefulness of the work,
however, and the necessity for its preparation, may be conceded
It contains fifty-five narratives, which, in their original form ot
publication, embrace ninety volumes. Many of the works, includ-
ing some of the greatest interest, have long been out of print ;
many have never been republished in this country ; and a few have
not been translated into EngUsh. Very few distinguished names

)st should not
,voler tell hia
lecessary con-
' tho different

bio to include
if exploration
lich have cou-
)f Ross, Parry,
^tending over
ice in order to
rmined, there-
exploration by
lat to have in-
ction since the
iessary a much
[ have thought
in a traveler's
in his own lan-
icting the most
jure, typical of
je which are of
Ben superseded
tory of a man's
s a biographical

Park. Alex-
es, justifies the
ork. No corn-
ever yet been

richness of the
3 to prevent the
distinguish be-
;ance, and that
lot suppose that
r my judgment
38 of the work,
ay be conceded,
riginal form of
e works, includ-

1 out of print ;
and a few have

nguished names

PREFACE.

have been omitted. Most of the groimd traversed by Sir Alexander
Burnes is covered by the narratives of Meyeiulorff and Lieutenant
Wood ; I was prevented from describing the very interesting re-
searches of Stephens in Central America and Yucatan, by the fact
of their being copyright works ; and of Schombui^k's expensive
work on Guiana, there is not a copy in this countiy, to my knowl-
edge, and none to bo procured at present. With these exceptions,
the list of travelers who have made important contributions to
our knowledge of other countries and other races, will be found
complete.

I have, of course, been obliged to omit all works which do not
in some degree partake of the character of exploration, however
admirable in stylo or interesting in substance. There are also
some works of the greatest interest in the course of publication,
but which have not yet appeared. Foremost among these are the
travels of Dr. Earth in Central Africa, which probably exceed in
importance any previous labors in the same field. Dr. Krapf has
not yet given to the world his account of the great African snow
mountain of Kilimancljaro, which ho discovered in the year 1850.
Anderson's visit to the great lake Ngami, in Southern Africa, is on
the eve of publication, and Dr. Livingston, tho discoverer of this
lake, is now on his return to Cape Town, from a daring journey of
three years into the unknown interior. There is, therefore, the
greater necessity now, when scarcely a year passes over without
some interesting geographical discovery, of bringing together in a
convenient form all that has hitherto been done, as an introduc-
tion to and elucidation of what may be done hereafter. Of the
essential interest of the various narratives it is unnecessary to
speak. Many of them already constitute a portion of the household
literature of the world, and are read wherever heroic endurance and
unflincliing courage are held in esteem.

It was thought best to arrange tho narratives in chronological
order, although this rule has not been adhered to in all cases.
Where there is a manifest connection between two or more separate
exploring journeys— as in the case of Denham, Clapperton, and
Lander — such connection has always been preserved. In some in-
stances, also, several disconnected journeys over prescribed routes or
in a special field of travel, have been grouped together under one
head. To have introduced geographical distinctions, in addition,
would have complicated the an-angement and required a greater
expenditure of time than I have been able to devote to the work.
I have endeavored to do the best allowed by the time and space
at my disposal, and claim no further merit than that of the

Mto

PRBPAOE.

mosaic-worker Who arranges in a sj-mmetrical form the jewels placed

^^^"in neTrlv all instances the articles have been prepared from the
original editions of the various works. For reference to a few
volumes which I was unable to obtain, I am indebted to the Astov
IndTiety Libraries of this city. My friend, Mr. Barclay Pennock
afforded me much assistance in translating from the French and
German, and in the abridgement of some of the narratives. The
Tuts Sh which the woA is illustrated have been taken m aU
cases from the original publications. The maps have been

materiJly to the interest of the narratives to which they are
prefixed.

BAYARD TAYLOR.

New York, July, 1866.

jewels placed

ired from the
nco to n few
I to the Astov
slay Pennock,
te French and
ratives. The
taken in all
58 have been
believed, add
iiich they are

AYLOR.

CONTENTS.

PAQI

lira AND TRATEIS op ALEXAimER VON HUMBOLDT, 19

Youth and Education, 19

Voyage to America, 23

Travels on the Orinoco, 33

Voyages on the Rio Negro and Oassiquiare, SO

Return to Cumana, 66

Visit to Cuba, 69

Travels among the Andes, 60

Visit to Mexico and return to Europe, 1i

Publication of his Works, 13

Journey through Russia, Siberia, and Tartary, 16

Humboldt's Later Years, 81

MuNOO Park's Travels in Western Africa, 93

Second Journey, 118

Lewis and Clarke's Jodrnbt to thb Paoitio Ocean, 129

Voyage up the Missouri, 129

Winter among the Mandans, 138

Journey across the Rocky Mountains, 142

Voyage down Lewis and Columbia Rivera^ 160

Winter on the Pacific Coast, 169

The Return Journey, Its

Bubokhardt's Travels in Stbla, AtBioA, and Arabia, . ... 191

Travels in Syria, lOT

Discovery of Petra, 206

Travels in Nubia and Ethiopia, 201

Journey to Mecca and Medina, 218

Belzoni's Explorations in Eoypt, 228

Cailliaud's Journey to the Libyan Oases, ETmopiA, and Sennaab, . , 246

Franklin's Overland Journey to the Polar Sea, 289

Meyendorit's Journey to Bokhara, 323

TiuKovsKi's Journey frou Siberia to Peetn, . ', 349

CooHRANE's Pedestrian Journey through Sibbru, 388

GOLOWNIN'S CAPnVTTY IN JAPAN, 411

Db Lasoaris's Secret Mission amono the Bedouins, 439

Denhau and Olapperton's Expedition to Central Afbioa, .... 463

Reception in Bomou, 469

Denham's Military Excursion to Mandara, 418

The Rainy Season in Bomou, 481

Excursions to Loggun and around Lake Tchad, 491

Olapperton's Journey to Sackatoo, 491

Return to Europe, 602

Olapperton's Second Journey to Sackatoo, 606

Return Journey of Richard Lander, ........ 618

XIV

CONTENTS.

EXPLOHATIONS OF THE NiOEH, ....

Discoveries of Richard and John Lander,

Laird and Oklfleld'8 Voyages on the Niger,

Narrative of Dr. Oldflold,

Allep and Tiiompson'a Expedition,
Moffat's Liff. in' Soutuerji Afuica, .
Stdut's Kxplouatioxs in- Austraua,

Journey to the River Darling, .

Voyage down tlio Mornimbidgoo and
Back's Ancrio Land Expedition,
"Wellsted's Tuavels in Oman,

EXPLOUATIOXS OF TUB WlIITE NiLE,

Wcrac's Voyage,
Dr. Kuoblcchor'a Voyage,
Major IIauuis's Mission to Siioa,
Parkyxs's Life in Aryhsinia, .

"Wood's .Journey to the Oxcs •

Fremont's Kxplorations op the Rocky Mountains and Caupobnia,

Journey to the Rocky Mountains,

Journey to Oregon and California,

Hue's Travels in Tartary, Thibet, and China, . . . •

Jo\irney through Tartary and Thibet

Residonco at Lha-Saa,

Journey from LUa-Ssa to Canton

Fortune's Journeys to the Tea-Countries op China,

Journey to the Green Tea Districts,

Journey to the Bohea Mountains

Recent Explorations in Australia,

Eyre's Journey,

Mitchell's Journey to Tropical Australia

Lcichhardt's Overland Journey to Port Essington,

Ltnoh's Exploration op the Dead Sea,

Lataed's Explorations at Nineveh and Babylon, .

First Excavations at Nineveh,

Second Visit to Nineveh,

Explorations of Babylon, . . • • .•

Travels op Ida Pfeipfeb,

Journey to Palestine,

Journey to Iceland,

First Journey around the "World,

Second Journey around tho "World, . .

Explorations of the Amazon River, ;

Journey of Lieutenant Herndon,

Journey of Lieutenant Gibbon, .

Richardson's Travels in the Sahara, . . • •
Richardson and Barth's Expedition to Central Africa, . .

Dr. Barth's Journey to Adamowa

Dr. Overwog's Exploration of Lake Tsad,

Explorations in 1851 and 1862,

Explorations of Drs. Barth and Vogel,

Navigation of tho River Benue,

Burton's Pilgrimage to Mecca

Exploration op Loo-Choo,

Report of Bayard Taylor,

PAOK

623
623
643
650
603
661
681
681
681
696
616
G28
G28
642
649
666
683
697
697
706
727
727
760
754
763
, 763
767
773
773
. 776
786
. 796
809
. 809
816
. 822
827
. 827
834
. 838
844
. .861
861
. 860
871
. 886
895
. 897
900
. 903
905
. 909
916
. 916

S(
"W

T]
Ci

OfMHMM

PAOI

623
623
643
650
6&3
661
681
681
681
696
615
628
C28
642
649
666
683
, 691
697
. 706
727
. 727
760
. 764
763
. 763
767
. 773
773
. 776
786
. 796
809
. 809
816
. 822
827
. 827
834
. 838
844
. .851
861
. 860
871
. 885
896
. 897
900
. 903
905
. 909
916
. 916

C0NTRNT8.

LIST OF MAPS.

South America, .

Webterv Afiiica.

Syria, etc., ....

Nubia and Ethiopia,

NoETHEK-v America,

Part of Siueria and Monqolia.

Part op Africa,

The Nkier, ....

Eastern Australia,

Tartary, Tiiiuet, and China,

Assyria

The Amazon, ....
Central Africa, ,

FAGE

Illustrating llumboldCs Travels, , , .18

Mmi'jo Park's "... 92

" liurd-harJi'd " ... 190

" ' CaiUiaud's "... 244

" FraMin\s " ... 2a8

" Timkoiski's and Coctiraim'a Travels, 348

" DerJuvii and Gtapi>erton^a " 462

" iMnder's Explorations, . . . 623

" Sturt's "... 680

" line's Trareh, .... 726

" Layard's Explorations, . . 808

" Ilerrtdon and Gibbon's Explorations, 850

" liickardson and Earth's Expedition, 884

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portraits op Distinouished Travelers {Frontispiece)

Falls op Tequendama, 62

The Volcano op Cotopaxi, 64

Chimborazo, 67

Sultan Ali's Tent at Benowm loi

Kamaua, J15

Excavated Tomb at Petba, 227

Fort Ekteeprise, 293

Wilberforcb Falls, 298

Lake Tchad, 470

BoDT-auARD of TUB Shekh op Bornou . . . . . , . . 473

Arrival at Mora, in Mandara, 480

Lancer op the Sultan op Beoharmi, 484

African Forest, 509

Scenery op the Lower Niger, 530

Abokko, 537

Lander's Grave 562

Mouth op the Niger 554

King Obi and his Wives, 655

The Model Farm 556

XVI

CONTENTS.

Junction of niE Mubrat and the Daklino,
Andekhon's Falls, ....
ViKW Seaward trom Montubal Island,
Scenery or Oman, ....
A Wandebino Afbican Tridb, .
Warriors or Suoa, ....
Adyssinian Warriors, ....
An Abyssinian Lady op Fashion,
Pekin,

Sauuadciiiemda,

The Hemp Palm,

Chinese Tea-Caubier, ...

Bottle-tree of Australia,

Natives of Australia,

The Mound op Nimroud (Nineveh),

The Ruins op Babylon,

Colossal Winged Lion, pbom Nineveh,

ILLIMANI, niOHEST PEAK OF THE ANDES,

Descendino the Rapids op the Madeira,

Ghadames,

The Wells op Mislah

Ghat,

TuK Demons' Palace ....

nam
691

604

611

615

664

6C0

670

680

121

129

765

770

779

783

809

822

825

863

868

873

877

879

887

VAOB

691

604

611

616

664

6C0

670

680

727

T29

766

770

779

783

800

822

826

, 863
868

. 873
877

. 879
887

LIFE AND TRAVELS

ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT."

SCIENTIFIC EXPLORATIONS IN SOUTH AMERICA, WSXQO,
RUSSIA, SIBERIA, AND TARTARY,

YOUTH AND EDUCATION.

Alexander Von Humboldt, the oldest and most renowned of
living travelers, was bom in Berlin, on the 14th of September, 1769.
His youth was spent in the castle and park of Tegel, about nine miles
north-west of that city— an estate which his father, Major Von Hum-
boldt, purchased at the termination of the Seven Years' War, when ho
was appointed chamberlain to Frederic the Great. The poet Goethe,
when he accompanied the Duke of Saxe-Weimar to Berlin, m the year
1778, visited Tegel, and there saw the Major's two sons, Wilhelm and
Alexander, who were then eight and ten years of age, but could scarcely
recognize in them, at that time, his future friends and co-workers in the
fields of literature and natural science.

* Humboldt ia a traveled man of science, rather than a traveler. Hta passion for
scientific investigation is, perhaps, even greater than his individual enjoymeut of new
scenes and new experiences. Hence I have found it difficult to Obtain the material for
a connected narrative of his travels and explorations. His " Personal Narmtive," which
was written to supply this want, at the request of his friends, is a rich treasury of infor-
mation, but contributes comparatively little to the end in view, and does not extend
beyond his visit to Cuba, in the year 1801, The remaining portion I have been obliged
to construct out of fragmentary descriptions scattered through his other works. Klencke's
"Life of Humboldt,' on which I have relied for a concise statement of tho scientific re-
suits of his travels, gives but the merest outline. The following are the principal works
consulted : Humboldt's "Personal Narrative;" Humboldt's "Views of Nature" Hum-
boldt's " Vuea des CordiUeres;" Humboldt's "New Spain;" Humboldt's "Kleinere Schr^.
ten;" Humboldt's " Aaie CentraU;" Rose's "Jieite naeh den UraL" etc. (Joamev to the
Ural) ; Klencke's " Life of Humboldt"

LIFK AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

rli

The brothers Humboldt were remarkably fortunate in the influences
which surrounded them in early life. The question of educational
reform was beginning to engage the attention of scholars and states-
men ; the ideas of Rousseau, which had penetrated into Germany, had
given rise to more rational and liberal pluis for the instruction of youth.
The physical development of the scholar received its due share of atten-
tion, and the study of natural science was considered of no less import-
ance than that of metaphysics and the classics. The first tutor employed
by Major Yon Humboldt for his sons was Campe (afterwards distin-
guished as a critic and philologist), who had edited a German edition
of Robinson Crusoe, and had written several books for children, con-
taining imaginary narratives of travel and adventure. It is very prob-
able that these books, and the conversation of their author, first excited
the passion for travel in the mind of his youngest pupil. By him, and
the tutors who succeeded him, the boys were carefully instructed ac-
cording to their years, without doing violence to the individual bent of
their natures. They were allowed to pursue different paths of study,
aiding and illustrating each other's progress by the mutual communica-
tion and discussion of what they had learned. Alexander soon began
to show his inclination for the study of nature. In his eleventh year he
received lessons in botany, and thenceforth devoted himself with ardor
to that and kindred sciences. It was noticed, however, that his mind
was slow to retain what was taught him ; his body was weak, and not
until late in boyhood, after he had become more robust and vigorous,
did he awake to a full consciousness of his powers.

In the year 1786, the brothers entered the University of Frankfort-
on-the-Oder, where they remained two years, and were then transferred
to that of Gottmgen. Here Alexander, now in his nineteenth year,
made the acquaintance of Blumenbach, the celebrated natural historian,
and of George Forster, who, as naturalist, had accompanied Cook in his
voyage around the globe. Through the friendship of .the latter, his
longing for exploration and scientific discovery was confirmed and
strengthened ; and he acquired that love of civil liberty, those humane
and progressive ideas, which have made him, while the friend of mon-
archs, the most liberal of citizens. Of the admiration which he felt for
Forster, we have ample testimony in the second volume of " Cosmos,"
where he pays an eloquent tribute to his genius. " All that can give
truth, individuality, and distinctiveness to the delineation of exotio
nature, is united in his works."

The brothers completed their studies in 1789. While Wilhelm,
whose talents fitted him for political life, paid a visit to Paris, Alexan-
der, in company with Forster, made his first scientific journey to the
I^ine, through Holland, and to England in the spring of 1700; and
this first experience became the subject of his first literary production.
It appeared in the same year, under the title of " Mineralogical Obser-
vations on some Basaltic Formations of the Rhine." After studying

'•i

the influencea
jf educational
irs and states-
Germany, had
.ction of youth.

share of atten-
no less import-
tutor employed
erwards distin-
Scrman edition
r children, con-
It is very prob-
lor, first excited
I. By him, and
J instructed ac-
iividual bent of

paths of study,
tual communica-
ider soon began
eleventh year he
nself with ardor
ir, that his mind
18 weak, and not
ist and vigorous,

ity of Frankfort-
then transferred
nineteenth year,
natural historian,
mied Cook in his
»f ,the latter, his
confirmed and
ty, those humane
le friend of mon-
which he felt for
ne of " Cosmos,"
yi that can give
leation of exotio

While Wilbelm,
o Paris, Alexan-
Jc journey to the
ng of 1790 ; and
erary productiwi.
leralogical Obser-
After studying

PLANS HIS AMERICAN JOURNEY.

book-keeping in a commercial institute in Hamburg, he removed to
Freiburg, and became a student in the mining academy, where he re-
mained until the spring of 1 792, when he received the appointment of
superintendent of mmes in Franconia, an office which he held for the
three following years. During this time he zealously prosecuted his
mineralogical and botanical studies, and made various experiments on
the physical and chemical laws of metallurgy. His mind, however, was
unsatisfied with his position ; he was looking forward with impatience
to the opportunity of prosecuting his investigations in broader and
fresher fields, and the plan of his great American journey, which ap-
pears to have been first made during his intimacy with Forstcr, pre-
sented itself constantly to his imagination. In order to prepare himself
for an undertaking of such magnitude, he made several visits to Swit-
zerland and the mountains of Silesia, besides an official journey into
I*rus8ian Poland. Thenceforth, this vision of transatlantic travel and
exploration became the ruling aim of his life. He thus refers to it in
the opening chapter of his " Personal Narrative :" — " From my earliest
youth, I felt an ardent desire to travel into distant regions, seldom
visited by Europeans. This desire is characteristic of a period of our
existence when life appears an unlimited hori?on, and when we find an
irresistible attraction in the impetuous agitation of the mind, and thu
image of positive danger. Though educated in a country which has no
direct communication with either the East or the West Indies, living
amid mountains remote from coasts, and celebrated for their numerous
mines, I felt an increasing passion for the sea and distant expeditions.
Objects with which we are acquainted only by the animated narratives
of travelers have a peculiar charm ; imagination wanders with delight
over that which is vague and undefined ; and the pleasures we are de-
prived of seem to possess a fascinating power, compared with which, all
we daily feel in the narrow circle of sedentary life appears insipid."

Resigning his office in 1795, Humboldt visited Vienna, where he
associated himself with the celebrated Freieslebcn, and resumed the
study of botany. He also occupied himself with galvanism, then just
discovered, and planned a visit to the volcanic districts of Naples and
Sicily, which he was unable to carry out, on account of the war. The
death of his mother, and the disposition of the paternal estates, now
called him away from his studies, and it was not until 1797 that he was
able to make serious preparations for his American journey. In order
to supply himself with ample means, he sold the large estate which he
had inherited, and set aside the greater part of the proceeds for that
object. But he was yet to encounter delays and obstacles, which would
have exhausted the patience of a less enthusiastic person. The brothers
had long talked of a journey to Italy in company, and it was decided
to carry out this plan prior to Alexander's departure, but, on reaching
Vienna, their progress was stopped by the war between France and
Austria. Alexander spent the winter of 1797-8 in Salzburg, where he

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

'1»

111

met with a gentleman who had visited Illjrria and Greece, and who was
ardently desirous of making a journey to Egypt. The two enthusiasts
matured a plan of ascending the Nile as far as the Nubian frontier, to
be followed by an exploration of Palestine and Syria ; but the political
aspects of Europe at this time prevented them from carryhig it into
effect. In the spring, Humboldt, hearing that the French government
was fitting out an exploring expedition, to bo dispatched to the southern
hemisphere, under the conmiand of Captain Baudin, hastened to Paris,
whither his brother had proceeded, after the peace of Campo Formio.
Here he first met with M. Aimo Bonj)land, his future companion in
South America, who had been appointed one of the naturalists of the
expedition. They entered together on a course of preparatory study,
while Humboldt, at the same time, united with the celebrated Gay-
LuBsac, in making experiments to determine the composition of the at-
mosphere. In addition to these labors, he found time to study the Arabii
language. His intellectual activity appears to have been truly remark-
able, and there was scarcely any branch of knowledge, which could even
remotely increase his qualifications for the great task before him, of
which he did not make himself master.

Baudin's expedition was given tip, on account of the renewed prospect
of war. But the spirit of travel was now thoroughly implanted in Hum-
boldt's heart, and he at once set about forming new plans. Being offered
passage from Marseilles to Algiers, in a Swedish frigate, which was dis-
patched on a special mission to the latter country, he conceived the idea
of passing through Barbary to Egypt, and there joining the French
scientific mission, which accompanied the army of Napoleon. Ho also
proposed to visit 3Iecca, if possible, and to extend his travels through
Persia to India. In these plans uo was seconded by Bonpland, who
joined company with him, and in the autumn of 1798 they both pro-
ceeded to Mareeilles, t" await the arrival of the Swedish frigate. Here,
again, ihey were doomed to disappointment. Aft;er waiting two months,
they learned that the frigate had been inj tried in a storm on the coast
of Portugal, and would not arrive until the following spring. During a
visit to Toulon, Humboldt saw the fiigata La JBoudeitse, which had
been commanded by Bongainville in his voyage around the world. He
says : " I can not describe the impression made upon my mind by the
sight of the vessel which had carried Commerson to the islands of the
South Sea." Rather than remain inactive iil Marseilles, the two friends
resolved to pass the winter in Spain. They proceeded, by way of Bar-
celona, to Madrid, making astronomical observ-ations and barometrical
measurements on the road. On arriving at the capital, they found that
the accident to the Swedish frigate was the best fortune which could
have befallen them. The Saxon embassador informed Humboldt that
under the administration of the enlightened minister, Urquijo, he might
obtain permission to travel in Spanish America, a permission which,
through the jealousy of Spain, had hitherto been obtained with gi-eat

, and who was
wo enthusiasts
an frontier, to
ut the political
irrying it into
;h government
the southern
tened to Paris,
Jampo Formio.

companion in
ituralists of the
paratory study,
:elebrated Gay-
isition of the at-
tudy the Arabia
n truly remark-
hich could even

before him, of

mewed prospect
planted in Ilum-
). Being offered
, which was dis-
nceived the idea
ing the French
loleon. Ho also
travels through
Bonpland, who
they both pro-
i frigate. Here,
ing two months,
jrm on the coast
ring. Daring a
euse, which had
the world. He
my mind by the
le islands of the
I, the two friends
by way of Bar-
ind barometrical
they found that
tune which could
Humboldt that
rquijo, he might
ermission which,
,uncd with gi'eat

DEPARTURE FOR AlCERICA.

difficulty, and always accompanied with restrictions, which greatly di-
minished its value. Humboldt thus relates the result of his application :
"I was presented at the court of Aranjuez in March, 1790, and the king
received me graciously. I explained to him the motives which led me
to undertake a voyage to the New World, and the Philippine Islands,
and I presented a memoir on the subject to the Secretary of State. Seflor
de Urquijo supported my demand, and overcame every obstacle. I ob-
tained two passports, one from the first Secretary of State, the other from
the Council of the Indies. Never had so extensive a permission been
granted to any traveler, and never had any foreigner been honored with
more confidence on the part of the Spanish government."

VOYAGE TO AMERICA.

Orerflowing with joy at the unhoped-for realization of desires which
he had cherished for nine years, and full of the anticipation of adventure
and discovery in the New World, Humboldt lefl Madrid in May, 1 799,
accompanied by Bonpland, and proceeded to Corunna, on the north-
western coast of Spain, where the corvette Pizarro, bound for Havana
and Mexico, was lying. The captain was ordered, not only to receive
the travelers on board, and provide a safe place for their astronomical
instruments, but also to touch at the port of Orotava, in the Canaries,
and allow them time to ascend the peak of Teneriffe. Corunna was at
that time blockaded by an English fleet, owing to which cause the sail-
ing of the Pizarro was postponed from day to day, but in the beginning
of June a violent storm obliged the three hostile vessels to make for the
open sea, and on the fifth the corvette hoisted her anchors, and safely
slipped away. The moment so impatiently looked forward to, through
so many years, was come at last : aflcr so much severe study, so much
devotion to his object, such rich and various preparation, Humboldt,
now thirty years of age, entered on the magnificent task, which he con-
sidered the great work of bis life, and the tbimdation of his fame as a
man of science. No man was ever better prepared, both by nature and
by cultivation, for such an undertaking, or better deserved success by
the patience and enthusiasm with which he overcame the obstacles in
the way of its accomplishment. But the beginnings of success are al-
ways clouded with doubt and uncertainty, and when the irrevocable step
had been taken, he experienced that sense of depression common to all
travelers on first setting out, and he thus wrote: "The moment of
leaving Europe for the first time, is attended with a solemn feeling. We
in vain summon to our minds the frequency of the communication be-
tween the two worlds ; we in vain reflect on the great facility with
which, from the improved state of navigation, we traverse the Atlantic,
which, compared to the Pacific, is but a larger arm of the sea ; the senti-
ment we feel when we first undertake so distant a voyage, is not the less

«;

LIFE AND TBAYELS OF HUlfBOLDT

\t
I

:ii

accompanied by a deep emotion, nnlike any other impreaaon we have
hitherto felt Separated from the objects of our dearest affections, enter-
ing in some sort on a new state of existence, we are forced to fidl back
on oar own thoughts, and we feel within ourselves a dreariness we have
never known before." The light of a fisher's hut at Sisarga, glimmering
like a star on the horizon, was his last glimpse of Europe. He and B<»i-
pland leaned over the nul, watchbg it until it disappeared. '' Oh,'* he
exclaimed, years afterward, "those impressions will never be erased
from my memory ! How many recollections does not one bright spot,
shining unsteadily over the agitated waves in the darkness of night, and
pointing out the shores of our native earth, recall to the imagination 1'*

At sunset, on the 8th of June, the English fleet was seen from the
mast-head, and the course of the Pizarro was immediately altered. For
some days no lights were allowed on board after dark, for fear of de-
tection, and the travelers were obliged to use dark lanterns in consulting
the thermometer. Nothing could have surpassed the enthusiasm with
which they prosecuted their scientifio investigations. In Humboldt's
narrative, the romance of travel is wholly lost sight of in the zeal of the
philosopher. No sooner had he left the land than he began to speculate
on the currents of the sea, and to measure their force and direction. He
fished up medusas, or sea-nettles, galvanized them, and tested their oar
pacity to emit light ; he was enchanted with the beauty of the nights,
but noi too much so to make astrcaomical observations ; ho admired the
brilliant az ire of the tropical sky, and measured its intensity of color
with a cyanik>si<4ter ; and when the island of Lancerote, one of the Cana-
ries, came in sight, he immediately took the angle of altitude of its
highest peak. So far from being insensible to the influences of nature,
few travelers have enjoyed them with a keener zest, but hih glance never
rests long upon a beautiful scene without going behind its outward
features, to speculate upon the geognostic laws which they illustrate.
His " Personal Narrative" is therefore a record of his scientifio observa-
tions rather than of his individual experience and adventure.

On approaching the island of Teneriffe, the weather was so hazy
that the peak was invisible, greatly to Humboldt's disappointment. This
circumstance, however, proved to be very fortunate ; for after entering
the harbor of Santa Cruz, early on the morning of the 10th of June, the
mist cleared away, and the first rays of the sun which illuminated the
famous peak, revealed also four English vessels lying at anchor. Thus
narrowly did the travelers escape being carried back to Europe, at the
outset of their journey ! On account of the blockade, the captain gave
them notice that he could only remain four or five days, and they hast-
ened to the town of Orotava, where they procured guides to ascend the
peak. They first visited the celebrated dragon-tree, the trunk of which
they found to be forty-five feet in circumf '<-'>r><',<j, and the great age of
which they could only conjecture. Humboldt considers it to be one of
the oldest inhabitants of our globe: "Its aspect," he says, "forcibly

P^
ui

of J

eaBumwehare
SSeotions, enter-
id to &11 back
riness we have
ga, glimmering

He and Bon-
ed. "Oh,'» he
ever be erased
ne bright spot,
BS of night, and
e imagination I"
I seen from the
ly altered. For
for fear of do-
ns in consulting
enthnoasm with
In Humboldt's
a the zeal of the
>gan to speculate
id direction. He
tested their ear
ity of the nights,
; ho admired the
nteuMty of color
one oftheCana-
)f altitude of its
uences of nature,
I hit! glance never
lind its outward
h they illustrate,
sdentific observar
iture.

her was so haiy
)pointment. This
ifor after entering
19thof June, the
)h illuminated the
at anchor. Thus
to Europe, at the

the captain gave
ys, and they hast-
ides to ascend th0
»e trunk of which
the great age of

rs it to be one of
le says, "forcibly

ASCENT OF TENERIFFK.

exemplifies that eternal youth of nature, which is an inexhaustible source
of motion and of life." Leaving Orotava, Humboldt and his companion
took a stony road through a forest of chestnut-trees, continued their
ascent to an elevated plateau, called the Plain of Jietama (a flowering
shrub), and before night succeeded in reaching a kind of cavern, called
the English Halt, nearly ten thousand feet above the sea. Though in
the midst of sunmier, and under an African sky, they suffered much
from cold, the thermometer falling to 41°. Humboldt thus describes
their lodging-place. " Our guides made a large fire with the dry brandies
of retama. Having neither tents nor cloaks, we lay down on some masHcs
of rock, and were singularly incommoded by the flame and smoke which
the wind drove toward us. We had attempted to form a kind of screen
with cloths tied together, but our inclosure took fire, which we did not
perceive till the greater part had been consumed by the flames. Wo
had never passed a night on a point so elevated, and we then little im-
agined that we should, one day, on the ridge of the Cordilleras, inhabit
towns higher than the sununit of the volcano we were to scale on the
morrow. A strong northerly wind chased the clouds ; the moon, at
intervals, shooting through the vapors, exposed its disc on a firmament
of the darkest blue ; and the view of the volcano threw a majestic char-
acter over the nocturnal scenery. Sometimes the peak was entirely hid-
den from our eyes by the fog, at other times it broke upon us in terrific
proximity ; and, like an enormous pyramid, threw its shadow over the
clouds rolling beneath our feet." At three o'clock in the morning they
lighted fir-torches, and started on their journey to the summit. They
reached the Malpays — a stony plain out of which rises tho volcanic cone
— in time to witness the rising of the sun. By means of a telescope and
chronometer, Humboldt ascertained that the time which the disc occupied
in mounting above the horizon, was eight minutes and one second. He
was half an hour in scaling the cone, the height of which above the plain
is only five hundred and seventy feet, but finally reached the summit,
one thousand nine hundred and four toises — twelve thousand one hun-
dred and seventy-four feet — above the sea, at eight o'clock. Here, seated
on a block of lava, he overlooked a portion of the earth's surface, equal
in dimensions to one fourth of the kingdom of Spain. In the transpa-
rency of the air he could distinguish not only the houses, the sails of
vessels, and the trunks of trees, far below, but even the differences of
color in the vegetation. " The volcano seemed to overwhelm with its
mass the island which serves as its base, as it shot up from the bosom of
the waters to a height three times loftier than the region where the
clouds float in summer. If its crater, halfextinguished for ages past,
shot forth flakes of fire like that of Stromboli in the ^olian Islands, the
Peak of Teneriffe, like a light-house, would serve to guide the mariner
in a circuit of more than two hundred and sixty leagues."

After having bottled some air for analysis, and collected some crystals
of sulphur, bedewed with sulphuric acid, which destroyed part of Hum-

■••

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

boldrs mincralogical journal, the travelers began their dosoent. The
cold and violent wind often obliged them to seek shelter under the rocks.
Their hands and faces were nearly frozen, while their boots were burned
by the hot ashes. The guides threw away their specimens, drank their
wine, and broke their water-jars. They met with no further accident,
however, and before night reached Orotava. This ascent of the Peak
of Tcneriffo, although it occupied but two days, was most important in
its results. The observations made by Humbdldt gave him the first idea
of those researches into tho geographical distribution of plants and an-
imals, which entitle him to rank as the founder of this branch of cos-
mography. He perceived that the inorganic forms of nature, such as
mountains and rocks, resemble each other in the most distant parts of
tho world, Avhile the organic forms — plants and animals — vary according
to climate, character of the soil, altitude above the sea, and other local
influences. From observing tho circles of vegetation on Teneriffe —
rising from tho cocoa-palm on tho sea-shore, through the regions of
chestnut, heath, and fir, to the fragrant retama at the base of the crater
— he was led to renew his investigations on the slopes of tho Andes.

On the 25th of June they sailed from Santa Cruz, and some days after-
ward passed through the Sargasso Sea — a part of the ocean covered with
immense beds of sea-weed, among which stems have been found eight
hundred feet in length, and which, floating on the surface, give the sea
the appearance of a vast inundated meadow. The appearance of the
nocturnal heavens, as tho ship proceeded southward, excited anew the
enthusiasm of tho travelers. " Nothing," writes Humboldt, " awakens
in the traveler a livelier remembrance of the immense distance by which
he is separated from his country, than the aspect of an unknown firma-
ment. A traveler needs not to be a botanist, to recognize the torrid
zone by tho mere aspect of its vegetation. Without having acquired
any notions of astronomy, he feels he is not in Europe, when he sees the
immense constellation of the Ship, or the phosphorescent Clouds of
Magellan, arise on the horizon. The heavens and tho earth — every
thing in the equinoctial regions — present an exotic character. We saw
distinctly for the first time the Southern Cross only on tho night of
tho 4th of July, in the sixteenth degree of latitude. It was strongly
inclined, and appeared from time to time between the clouds, the center
of which, furrowed by nncondcnsed lightnings, reflected a silvery light.
If a tniveler may be permitted to speak of his personal emotions, I shall
add, that on that night I cxperienoed the realization of one of the dreams
of my early youth.

" The two great stars which mark the sammit and the foot of the
Cress, having nearly the same right ascension, it follows that the con-
stellation is almost perpendicular at the moment when it passes the me-
ridian. This circumstance is known to the people of every nation
situated beyond the tropics, or in the southern hemisphere. It has been
observed at what hour of the night, in different seasons, the Cross is

OT.

r dcscont. The
under the rocks,
►ots were burned
ncna, drank their
further accident,
cent of the Peak
o8t important in
him the first idea
jf plants and an-
is branch of cos-
)f nature, such as
t distant parts of
s — ^vary according
a, and other local
m on Teneriffe —
;h the regions of
base of the crater
of the Andes,
id some days after-
3ccan covered with
! been found eight
rface, give the sea
appearance of the
I, excited anew the
amboldt, "awakens
3 distance by which
an unknown firma-
ecognize the torrid
lut having acquired
)e, when he sees the
lorescent Clouds of
d the earth— every
character. We saw
ily on the night of
lo. It was strongly
he clouds, the center
jcted a silvery light,
jnal emotions, I shall
of one of the dreams

and the foot of the
■ollows that the con-
hen it passes the me-
jplc of every nation
lisphere. It has been
; seasons, the Cross ia

DEATH ON BOARD.

erect or inclined. It is a timepiece which advances very regularly nearly
four minutes a-day, and no other groiip of stars aflbrds to the naked cyo
an observation of time so easily made. How often have wo hoard our
guides exclaim in the savannahs of Venezuela, or in the desert extending
from Lima to Truxillo, " Midnight is past, the Cross begins to bend !"
How often those words reminded us of that affecting scone, whore Paul
and Virginia, seated near the source of the river of Latanicrs, convorsod
together for the last time, and whore the old man, at the sight of the
Southern Cross, warns them that it is time to separate."

The latter part of the voyage was not so fortunate as tlio first. A
malignant fever broke out, which grew more serious the nearer the sliip
approached the Antilles. On the 12th of July, Humboldt, who had
taken obsei-vations of the latitude and longitude every day during the
voyage, predicted that land would bo seen the next day before sunrise.
The pilots, who depended mostly on the log for their reckoning, laughed
at this, asserting that they would not make land for two or throe days ;
but at six o'clock next morning, the welcome cry was given by a sailor
at the mast-head. The land proved to bo the island of Tobago. The
next day a young Asturian, nineteen years of age, fell a victim to the
fovor, and his death seems to have produced a painfid impression upon
the mind of Humboldt, who thus describes the occurrence: "We were
assembled on the deck, absorbed in melancholy reflections. It was no
longer doubtful, that the fever which raged on board, had assumed with-
in the last few days a fatal aspect. Our eyes were fixed on a hilly and
desert coast, on which the moon, from time to time, shed her light
athwart the clouds. The sea, gently agitated, emitted a feeble phosphoric
light. Nothing was heard but the monotonous cry of a few large sea-
birds, flying toward the shore. A profound calm reigned over these
solitary regions, but this calm of nature was in discordance with the
painful feelings by which we were oppressed. About eight o'clock, the
dead man's knell was slowly tolled. At this lugubrious sound, tho sail-
ors suspended their labors, and threw themselves on their knees to offer
a momentary prayer : an affecting ceremony, which brought to our re-
mombrance those times, when the primitive Christians all considered
themselves as members of tho same family. All were united in one com-
mon sorrow for a misfortune which was felt to be common to all."
Many of tho passengers, becoming alarmed, induced the captain to run
into Cumana, a port on the north-eastern shore of Venezuela, and there
land them, rather than continue their voyage in the Pizarro to Havana.
Among them were Humboldt and Bonpland, who decided to visit Vene-
zuela before proceeding to Mexico, and thus the epidemic which they
at first regarded as a misfortune, became the accidental cause of their
discoveries in tho regions of the Orinoco. To tho same circumstance
they won also indebted for the preservation of their heo'tij, for the yel-
low-fever was then prevailing in Havana, and many of the passengers
who remained on board of the Pizarro, fell victims to it after their arrival.

LIFE AND TBAVBLS OF HUMBOLDT.

"On the 16th of July, 1709, at break of day," says Humboldt, "wo
beheld a verdant coast, of picturesque aspect. Tlic mountains of New
Andalusia, half vailed by mists, bounded the horizon to the south. The
city of Curaana and its castle appeared between groups of cocoa-trees.
We anchored in the port about nine in the morning, forty-one days a^.cr
our departure from Corunna ; the sick dragged themselves on deck to
enjoy the sight of a land which was to put an end to their sufferings.
Our eyes were fixed on the groups of cocoa-trees which border the
river ; their trunks, more than sixty feet high, towered over every ob-
ject in the landscape. The plain was covered with the tufts of cassia,
caper, and those arborescent mimosas, which, like the pine of Italy,
spread their branches in the form of an umbrella. The pinnated leaves
of the palms were conspicuous on the azure sky, the clearness of which
was unsullied by any trace of vapor. The sun wan ascendmg rapidly
toward the zenith. A dazzling light was spread through the air, along
the whitish hills strewed with cylindric cactuses, and over a sea ever
calm, the shores of M-hich M'cro peopled with pelicans, herons, and fla-
mingoes. The splendor of the day, the vivid coloring of the vegetable
world, the forms of the plants, the varied plumage of the birds, all were
stamped with the grand character of nature in the equinoctial regions."

The captain of the Pizarro conducted the travelers to the Governor
of the province, Sefior Emparan, who received them with great kind-
ness, and by the public consideration which ho showed them, secured
them a favorable reception in all parts of Venezuela. To their great
astonishment, he asked them questions which denoted some scientific
knowledge, and Humboldt declares, in his delight at this circumstance,
"The name of liis native country, pronounced on a distant shore, would
not have been more agreeable to the car of a traveler, than those words
azote, oxyd of iron, and hygrometer, were to ours." The travelers hired
a spacious house, in a situation favorable for astronomical observa-
tions, and commenced their labors at once. " Overpowered at once by
a great number of objects, we were somewhat embarrassed how to lay
down a regular plan of study and observation. While every surround-
ing object was fitted to inspire in us the most lively interest, our phys-
ical and astronomical instruments in their turns excited strongly the
curiosity of the inhabitants. We had numerous visitors ; and in our
desire to satisfy persons who appeared so happy to see the spots of the
moon through Dollond's telescope, the absorption of two gases in a eu-
diometrical tube, or the cficcts of galvanism on the motions of a fi-og,
we were obliged to answer questions often obscure, and to repeat for
whole hours the same experiments."

Humboldt found relaxation from these annoyances in botanizing, and
in studying the manners and customs of the inhabitants. He was par-
ticularly interested in the gigantic varieties of cactus, which, planted
around the Spanish fortresses, formed an almost impenetrable chevaux-
de-frise, while the moats, for further defense, were fiUed with swarms of

mmm

)T.

lumboldt, " wo
intains of New
he south. The
i of cocoa-trees.
y-ono days a^'vcr
•lvc8 on deck to
their Bufferings,
lich border the
I over every ob-
! tufts of cassia,
B pine of Italy,
pinnated leaves
earness of which
scending rapidly
h the air, along
I over a sea ever
herons, and fla-
of the vegetable
le birds, all were
inoctial regions."
to the Governor
with great kind-
ed them, secured

To their great
1 some scientific
Ills circumstance,
tant shore, would
than those words
10 travelers hired
lomical observa-
rered at once by
rassed how to lay

every surround-
nterest, our phys-
ited strongly the
itors ; and in our

the spots of the
two gases in a eu-
lotions of a frog,
ind to repeat for

botanizing, and
nts. He was par-
tis, which, planted
netrable chevaux-
d with swarms of

EXCURSIONS AROUND CUMANA.

alligators. Among the customs of the inhabitants of Cumana, he de-
scribes the following : " The children pass a considerable part of their
lives in the water ; all the inhabitants, even the women of the most
opulent families, know how to swim ; and in a country where ni.in is so
near the state of nature, one of the first questions asked on meeting in
the morning is, whether the water is cooler than it was on the preced-
ing evening. One of the modes of bathing is curious. Wo every evening
visited a family, in the suburb of the Guayquerias. In a fine moonlight
night, chturs were placed in the water ; the men and women were lightly
clothed, as in some baths of the north of Europe ; and the family and
strangers, assembled in the river, passed some hours iti smoking cigars,
and in talking, according to the custom of the country, of the extreme
dryness of the season, of the abimdant rains in the neighboring districts,
and particularly of the extravagances of which the ladies of Cumana
accuse those of the Caracas and the Havanna. The company were
under no apprehensions from the bavas, or small crocodiles, which are
now extremely scarce, and which approach men without attacking them."
Humboldt also directed his attention to the volcanic soil on which ho
was living, and collected facts in relation to the earthquakes with which
Cumana was frequently visited, in order to ascertain whether the di-
rection and extent of the shocks was not regulated by some yet un-
discovered law.

On the 19th of August, the travelers embarked in a boat, on an ex-'
cursion to the peninsula of Araya, and those districts formerly celebrated
for the slave-trade and the pearl-fishery. They had now been two
months in the tropics, and found the nights so cold as to prevent them
from sleeping, although the thermometer did not fall below 70°. After
visiting the castle of Araya, they were benighted on their way to an
Indian >nllage. They were in a narrow path, with the sea on one side,
and a perpendicular precipice on the other ; the tide was rising rapidly,
but they insisted on stopping to observe the setting of Venus, in spite
of the terror of their guide. After wading for nearly an hour through
the water, they finally reached a hut where they were hospitably enter-
tained.

In the Indian village they found a Spanish shoemaker, who practiced
medicine among the natives, and who, after delivering a long discourse
on the vanity of human greatness, presented them with some small
pearls, with the request that they would note the circumstance on their
tablets. The next excursion made by Humboldt and Bonpland was to
the mission in the mountains inhabited by the Chaymas Indians, a dis-
trict filled with a wonderful animal and vegetable world, and a people
living in the most primitive condition. Here they first beheld the splen-
dors of tropical vegetation. "Walking fijr hours under a roof of foliage,
through which the sky appeared of a deep indigo-blue, they saw the
hanging nests of the oriole, and heard the screaming of parrots and
macaws. '' When a traveler first penetrates into the forests of South

LIFK AND TUAVEL8 OF HUMBOLDT.

America," nnyn IltiiabuUlt, "ho bcliolJs nature undi-r an unexpected
aspect. He feels at every utep tliat lie U not on the conlines, but in
the center of the torrid zone ; not in one of the West India Islands,
but on a vast continent where every thing is gigantic — mountains,
rivers, and the mass of vegetation. If he fuel strongly the beauty of
picturesque Hcenery he can scarcely define the various emotions which
crowd ujion his mind; he can scarcely distinguish what most excites his
admiration — the deep silence of those solitudes, the individual beauty
:uul contrast of forms, or that vigor and freshness of vegetable life which
characterize the climate of the tropics. It might be said that the earth,
overloaded with plants, does not allow tlicm space enough to unfold
themselves. The tnuiks of the trees are everywhere concealed under a
thick carpet of verdure ; and if we carefully transplanted the orchidea>,
peppers, and the pothoses, nourished by a single American fig-tree, wo
should cover a vast extent of ground. l>y this singular assemblage, the
forests, as Avell as the flanks of the rocks and mountains, enlarge tlie do-
mains of organic nature. The sanio parasitic vines Mhich creep on the
ground, reach the tops of the trei's, and jiass from one to the other at
the height of more than a hundred feet." The travelers were kindly
received at the mission, although the old monk smiled sarcastically on
seeing their books and instruments, and observed that there was no sat-
isfaction in life equal to that of eating good beef In the village of
•Arenas, they noticed a curious i)hysioIogical phenomenon, in the person
of a Spanisli laborer, named Lozano, who had suckled a child with his
own milk. The mother having fallen sick, the father, to quiet the infant,
took it into his bed, and pressed it to his bosom. Lozano, then thirty-
two years of age, had never before remarked that he had milk ; but the
irritation of the nipple, sucked by the child, caused the accumulation of
that liquid. The milk was thick and very sweet. The father, astonished
at the. increased size of liis breast, suckled his child two or three times a
day during five months. The travelers saw the certificate, Avhich had
been drawn up on the spot, to attest this remarkable fact. They were
assured that, during this suckling, the child had no other nourishment
than the milk of his father.

Humboldt and liis friend continued their journey to the ravine of
Cucliivano, by a path infested with jaguars. From the caverns in this
ravine smoke and flames are sometimes emitted. The inhabitants of
this district prophesied an increase of earthquakes and other disturb-
ances, from the .appearance of these flames — prophecies whicli were
fully verified in the course of a few years. On the 12th of Septem-
ber, after climbing the hills, they reached the principal mission of
Caripe, where they spent sever.il calm and beautiful nights. " Nothing,"
s^ys Humboldt, " can be compared to the majestic tranquillity which
the aspect of the firmament presents in this solitary region. When
tracing with the eye, at night-fall, the meadows^vhich bounded the hor-
izon, the plain covered with verdure .md gently undulated, we thought

• T.

an unoxpocteu
Lonfiiu'S, but in
, IiuUa Isliuuls
lie — uiountaiiH,

tho beauty of
emotions which
most excites his
ilividual beauty
utablc Ufo which
I that the earth,
lOugh to unfolil
ncoalcil under a
d tho orchidea?,
•ican fig-tree, wo

assemblage, the
, enlarge the do-
lifh creep on the
c to tho other at
■lers were kindly
1 sarcastically on
there was no sat-
in tho village of
ion, in the person
I a child with liis
juict the infant,

TllK OUACHARO CAVEUN.

zano, then thirty-
ud milk ; but tho
) accumulation of
father, astonished
a or three times a
.ficatc, which had
fact. They were
ther nourishment

y to tho ravine of
10 caverns in this
'ho inhabitants of
nd other disturb-
ccies which wore

12th of Septem-
ncipal mission of
ghts. "Nothing,"
tranquillity which
•y region. When

bounded the hor-
lated, we thought

we Iteheld fioni nfur, as in the deserts of tho Orinoco, tlie surface of the
ocean supptirting the starry vault of heaven. The tree under which wo
were seated, the luminous insects ilyiiig in the air, the constellations
which shone in the south ; every object seemed to tell us how fur wc
were from our native land. If amid this exotic nature we heard from
tho depth of tho valley the thikling of a boll, or tho lowing of herds, tho
remembrance of our country was awakened su'ldenly. Tiie sounds were
like distant voices resounding from beyond the ocean, and with magical
power transporting us from one hemisphere to tho other. Strange
mobility of tho imagination of man, eternal source of our enjoyments
and our pains!" In tho valley of Caripc, the travelers visited the
celebrated Guacharo Cavern, which had never been heard of in Europe.
The entrance is on arch eighty feet wide and seventy-two feet high, out
of which flows a small stream. The palms and arums on its banks were
found glowing a hundred feet within the cavo. When tho light began
to fail, they heard tho hoarse cries of the ffttacharo, a nocturnal bird,
which they found to belong to ft genus previously unknown. Tho plum-
age is of a dark bluish-gray, spotted with black, and tho wings, when
spread, measure three feet and a half. Their food consists of nuts ond
hard fruits, which they procure by night, retiring into tho cavo on tho
approach of day. " It would bo difficult to form an idea of the horrible
noise occasioned by thousands of these birds in the dark part of the cav-
oni. Their shrill and piercing cries strike upon tho vaults of the rooks,
and are repented by the subterranean echoes. Tho Indians showed us
the nests of tho guacharos by fixing a torch to tho end of a long polo.
The nests were fifty or sixty feet above our heads, in holes in the shape
of funnels, with which tho roof of the grotto is pierced like a sieve. The
noise increased as we advanced, and as the birds were scared by the
light of tho torches of copal. When' this noiso ceased a few minutes
around us, we heard at a distance the plaintive cries of tho birds roost-
ing in other ramifications of tho cavern."

They only succeeded in penetrating to tho distance of fifteen hundred
feet, as tho Indians, who were timid and superstitious, refused to pro-
ceed further. Humboldt estimates the entire length of the cavern at
two thousand eight hundred feet, or a. little more than half a mile. On
tho 22d of September, having collected their specimens, they set out on
their ret<"Ti, crossing the mountain of Santa Maria, by a dangerous path
along th( edges of precipices and through dense forests, where they
obs(!rved many varieties of monkeys. Humboldt remarked that these
animals seem tho more depressed and melancholy the nearer they re-
semble man — that in proportion to the increase of their apparent reason-
ing faculties, tlieir impetuous sprightliness diminishes. Tlie travelers
finally arrived at tho port of Cariaco, where a contagious fever had
broken out, and they, therefore, embarked speedily for Cumana, twelve
leagues distant. While studying the character of the Chaymas, and
other Indian tribes, on this journey, Humboldt noticed their habit of as-

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

senting to whatever is said to them — a habit which taught him to be
cautious, thenceforth, in accepting statements made by the natives. To
put an Indian alcalde to the proo^ he asked him one day, whether he
did not think the little river of Caripe, which issues from the cavern of
the Guacharo, returned into it on the opposite side by some unknown
entrance, after having ascended the slope of the mount^n. The Indian
seemed gravely to reflect on the subject, and then answered, by way of
supporting Humboldt's hypothesis : " How else, if it were not so, would
there always be water in the bed of the river at the mouth of the
cavern ?'♦

The travelers decided to remain another month at Cumana, to pre-
pare for their intended journey to the Orinoco and the Rio Negro, and
to observe an eclipse of the sun, on the 27th of October. On the even-
ing preceding that day, however, they met with an adventure which
came near terminating their travels. They were strolling along the
beach in the evening, when Humboldt, hearing some one walking be-
hind him, turned and saw a tall Zambo (mongrel negro and Indian),
who held over his head a great club of palm-tree wood. . He thus de-
scribes what followed: "I avoided the stroke by leaping toward the
left ; but M. Bonpland, who walked on my right, was less fortunate. He
did not see the Zambo so soon as I did, and received a stroke above
the temple, which leveled him with the ground. We were alone, with-
out arms, half a league from any habitation, on a vast plain bounded by
the sea. The Zambo, instead of attacking me, moved off slowly to pick
up M. Bonj^and's hat, which, having somewhat deadened the violence
of the blow, had fallen off and lay at some distance. Alarmed at seeing
my companion on the ground, and for some moments senseless, I thought
of him only. I helped him to raise himself and pain and anger doubled
his strength. We ran toward the Zambo, who, either from cowardice^
common enough in people of this caste, or because he perceived at a dis-
tance some men on the beach, did not wait for us, but ran off in the direc-
tion of a little thicket of cactus. He chanced to &11 in running ; and M.
Bonpland, who reached him first, seized him round the body. The
Zambo drew a long knife ; and in this unequal struggle we should in-
fallibly have been wounded, if some Biscayan merchants had not come
to our assistance. The Zambo again ran away and we pursued him
through the thorny cactuses. At length, tired out, he took shelter in a
cow-house, whence he suffered himself to be quietly led to prison. M.
Bonpland was seized with fever during the night ; but endowed with
great energy and fortitude, he continued his labors the next day. The
stroke of the club had extended to the top of his head, and he felt its
effect for the space of two or three months during the stay we made at
* Caracas."

After having observed the eclipse, Humboldt's attention was directed
to a reddish mist, which covered the sky for some minutes every even-
ing. Other remarkable phenomena soon followed : the mist grew denser,

m
mc

trip

rain;^

totl

racts

maini

are;

and

five

inbol

the

tweed

threal

daunil

everj

valual

severs

acas

experl

"Wei

EARTHQUAKE— JOURNEY TO THE ORINOCO.

ught him to be
,he natives. To
day, whether he
[Q the cavern of
some unknown
un. The Indian
ered, by way of
sre not so, would
,e mouth of the

Cumana, to pre-
) Rio Negro, and
r. On the even-
adventure which
rolUng along the
, one walkmg be-
;gro and Indian),
jod. He thus de-
Biping toward the
less fortunate. He
ed a stroke above
I -were alone, with-
pHn bounded by
I off slowly to pick
ened the violence
Alarmed at seeing
enseless, I thought
and anger doubled
er from cowardice,
I perceived at a ^»-
ranoffinthedireo-

a running ; and M.
d the body. The
ggle we should in-
ants had not come
d we pursued him
he took shelter in a

led to prison. M.

)ut endowed with
the next day. The
ead, and he felt its
he stay we made at

tention was cUrected
minutes every even-
le mist grew denser.

the hot night air was inodorous, the sea-breezes failed to blow, and the
sky was colored like fire. On the 4th of November, in the afternoon,
two violent shocks of an earthquake occurred. The travelers were
greatly impressed by this new experience, but immediately arranged
tiieir electrical apparatus, and commenced their experiments. Hum-
boldt's remarks upon the sensations produced by an earthquake are
strikingly true, as every person who has felt the shock of one can testify.
He says : '* From our infancy, the idea of certain contrasts becomes fixed
in our minds: water appears to us an element that moves; earth, a
motionless and inert mass. Tliese impressions are the result of daily
experience ; they are connected ■with every thing that is transmitted to
us by the senses. When the shock of an earthquake is felt, when the
earth which wc had deemed so stable is shaken on its old foundations,
one instant suffices to destroy long-fixed illusions. It is like awakening
from a dream ; but a painful awakening. We feel that we have been
deceived by the apparent stability of nature ; we become observant of
the least noise ; we mistrust for the first time the soil we have so long
trod with confidence. But if the shocks be repeated, if they become
frequent during several successive days, the uncertainty quickly disap-
pears. Confidence easily springs up in the human breast : on the coasts
of Pern we become accustomed to the undulations of the ground, as the
sailor becomes accustomed to the tossing of the ship, caused by the
motion of the waves."

TRAVELS ON THE ORINOCO.

On the 1 8th of November, the travelers left Cumana on a coasting
trip to Laguayra, intending to remain in Caracas until the end of the
runy season. They then proposed crossing the great plains, or llanoa,
to the missions of the Orinoco ; to ascend that river, south of its cata-
racts, and ascertwi its reported connection with the Rio Negro— the
main northern tributary of the Amazon — ^by means of the Rio Cassiqui-
arc ; and afterward to descend the Orinoco to the town of Angostura,
and recross the plains to Cumana. This was a journey of nearly twenty-
five hundred nules, two thirds of which they would be obliged to make
in boats, through a country almost entirely unknown. The monks were
the real masters of the Orinoco country, and no intercourse existed be-
tween their mianons and the cities on the coast. The colonists painted in
threatening colors the dangers they would encounter, but nothing could
daunt the zeal and intrepidity of Humboldt and Bonpland. They received
every assistance from Sefior Emparan, the governor, and derived much
valuable information firom Fray Juan Gonzalez, a monk wiio had spent
several years at Esmeralda, on the upper Orinoco. On departing for Car-
acas th^y first realized how powerftil an influence their first four months'
experience of tropical life and scenery had produced upon their minds.
" We quitted the shore of Cumana," says Humboldt, " as if it had long

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP HUMBOLDT.

been our homo. Tliis was the firat land we had trodden in a zone toward
which my thoughts had been directed from earliest youth. There is a
powerful charm in the impression produced by the scenery and climate
of these regions ; and after an abode of a few months we seemed to have
lived there during a long succession of years. In proportion as impres-
sions are powerful and new, they weaken antecedent impressions, and
their force imparts to them the character of duration. I appeal to those
who, more sensible to the beauties of nature than to the charms of soci-
ety, have long resided in the torrid zone. How dear, how memorable
during life, is the land on which they first disembarked I A vague desire
to revisit that spot remains rooted in their minds to the most advanced
age. Cumana, and its dusty soil, are still more frequently present to my
imagination than all the wonders of the Cordilleras. Beneath the bright
sky of the south, the light, and the magic of the aerial hues, embellish a
land most destitute of vegetation. The sun does not merely enlighten,
it colors the objects, and wraps them in a thin vapor, which, without
changing the transparency of the air, renders its tints more harmonious,
softens the effects of the light, and diffuses over nature a placid calm,
which is reflected in our souls."

Reaching Laguayra on the 2l8t, Humboldt found the yellow fever
raging violently, and without halting in the town, ascended to Ca-
racas, by the mountain road, which he compares to the passage of the
St. Gothard, in Switzerland. In the latter city, at an elevation of 2,500
feet above the sea, he found a climate of perpetual spring. He took a
house in a quarter of the city, which, during the great earthquake of
1812, was as completely destroyed as if a rauie had been sprung beneath.
Here the travelers remained two months, charmed with the society of
the place, although the weather was unfavorable for their astronomical
observations. The nights were generally cloudy, and Humboldt resorted
to the theatre, where, as there was no roof over the pit, he could watch,
as he sat in his box, for the appearance of Jupiter. The only excursion
made during this residence was to the summit of the Silla {saddk) of
Caracas, which none of the inhabitants' had ever ascended. Sixteen
persons offered to accompany the expedition, for the sake of novelty,
and the party started on the 22d of January, 1800, on a day when, on
account of the low clouds, they could calculate on a clear atmosphere.
Leaving the foot of the Silla in tha morning, they found the path very
steep and fiitiguing. The ground was covered with short grass, which
afforded no firm footing, while thin vapors arose from the forest, and
announced an approaching mist. Humboldt's companions lost courage
and showed some signs of beating a retreat, and the garrulity of the
accompanying negroes contrasted strongly vfith the taciturnity of
^the Indians, who had been his guides among the Chaymas moimtains.
They mocked the discouraged guides, and made themselves especially
merry at a young Capuchin friar, who was, at the same time, professor
of mathematics. When the company started, he imaguicd that he would

DT.

in a zone toward
uth. There is a
nery and climate
e seemed to have
ortion as impres-
impressionf?, and
I appeal to those
le charms of soci-
, how memorable
! A vague desire
lie most advanced
tly present to my
ieneath the bright
I hues, embellish a
merely enlighten,
ar, which, without
more harmonious,
lire a placid calm,

1 the yellow fever
, ascended to Ca-
he passage of the
I elevation of 2,500
spring. He took a
reat earthquake of
en sprung beneath.
v'lth the society of
■ their astronomical
Humboldt resorted
)it, ho could watch,
The only excursion
he Silla (saoTdfe) of
iscended. Sixteen
he sake of novelty,
, on a day when, on
a clear atmosphere,
found the path very
1 short grass, which
pom the forest, and
anions lost courage
le garrulity of the
the taciturnity of
Jhaymas mounttuns.
lemselves especially
lame time, professor
incd that he would

ASCENT OF THE SILLA DE CARACAS.

snrpass all the rest in boldness and endurance ; he had even taken bits
of wiiite paper with him, that he, as the foremost of the climbers, might
throw them down to show the way to the others. He had also promised
the monks of his order to fire some rockets from the top of the mount-
ain, in order to announce his success to the inhabitants of Caracas.
But this boaster, encumbered in the ascent by his long gown, soon lost
both his strength and courage, and stopped at a plantation, whence he
watched Humboldt and the others through a telescope. The party
moved on toward the eastern part of the Silla, which terminates in two
rounded peaks. Their journey now became very difficult on account of
the fog, and the necessity of using both hands and feet in climbing the
steep and slippery ascent. At the height of five thousand five hundred
feet, they were surprised by the sight of a palm forest, within which
Humboldt found a greater variety of plants in a small space, than in any
other part of the world. After further climbing, during which the mer-
cury sank to 51°,. and they suffered from the cold, they reached the hol-
low between the two peaks, called the " Saddle." The luxuriant vegeta-
tion here made it extremely difficult to find a path, which had to be
hewn with knives and axes. A dense mist clung around them, and at
every step the danger was incurred of coming suddenly upon the brink
of the tremendous precipice, and fiiUing six thousand feet into the sea.
They made a halt, to await the arrival of some negroes with provi-
sions, but the meal was very sparing, as they had only olives and a little
bread. Even the guides had lost all courage, and were with great diffi-
culty prevented from returning. It was now two o'clock in the after-
noon, and Humboldt determined to reach the summit of the eastern
peak before sunset, and pass the night in the hollow below. The ne-
groes were sent back, with orders to meet him on the following day,
with more satisfactory provender than olives. Scarcely had these pre-
parations been made, when the east wind arose, dispersing the clouds
in less than two minutes. The two peaks of the Silla, covered only with
grass and low bushes, seemed astonishingly near. In order to reach
the highest peak, they were obliged to approach the steep precipice
hanging over the sea, but the obstacles from vegetation decreased as
they ascended. In three quarters of an hour they stood upon the eastern
summit, eight thousand six hundred and thirty-two feet above the sea,
which expanded before their eyes with a radius of a hundred miles.
The western peak hid from their view the city of Caracas, but the vast
extent of tropical forests, villages, coffee plantations, and the silver
windings of the Guayra River, filled them with rapture. It has been
stated that in looking from the Silla over the Carribean Sea, Humboldt
observed that rare and remarkable sight, the visible convexity of the
earth, but this circumstance is not mentioned in his " Personal Nar-
rative," where ho thus describes the view : " Following with the eye the
surface of the sea, which was smooth as glass, we were struck with the
progressive diminution of the reflected light. Where the visual ray

LIFK AND TBAVBLS OF HUMBOLDT.

touched tho lost limit of that aorface, the water was lost among the
superposed strata of air. This appearance has something ui it very
extraordinary. We expect to see the horizon level with the eye ; but,
instead of distinguishing at this height a marked limit between tho two
elements, the more distant strata of water seem to be transformed in'.o
vapor, and mingled with the atrial ocean. I observed the same appear-
ance, not in one spot of the horizon alone, but on an extent of more than
a hundred and sixty degrees, along the Pacific, when I found myself for
the first time on the pointed rock that commands the crater of Hchin-
cha; a volcano, the elevation of which exceeds that of Mont Blanc." At
half past four o'clock, having finished their scientific observations, the
travelers descended to the palm forest. They were botanizing when the
night overtook them; the guides who carried the instruments went
away, one by one, to seek a sleeping place among tho rooks, and it was
not until nearly midnight that Humboldt and Bonpland, overcome with
hunger and £itigne, reached tho lower valley. After a descent of six
hours, they agsuu arrived at the plantation at the foot of the mountain.
The inhabitants of Caracas had witnessed their success through telescopes.
On the Vth of Febraary, they commenced their journey into tho
interior. Instead of proceeding directly across the steppes, or llanos, to
the Orinoco River, they selected a longer route by way of the valley of
Aragoa, and the hot springs of Mariara, to the Lake of Valencia; thence
across the llanos to San Fernando, on the Apure River, and down that
river to the Orinoco. On their way to the Lake of Valencia, they
visited a tree called zamanff, a variety of the mimosa, the boughs of
which formed a hemisphere five hundred and seventy-six feet in circum-
ference, and so regular that on measuring several diameters, Humboldt
found them to vary only from one hundred and eighty-six to one hundred
and ninety-two feet. He considered this tree as old as the dragon-tree
of Teneriffe. It is held in such high regard that a man, who cut off a
branch, was tried and condemned for the act. In tho colonies of Cura,
the travelers passed several days after the manner of the natives^ taking
two baths, three meals, and three sleeps every twenty-four hours. After
visiting the hot springs of Mariara, they journeyed six days to the town
of New Valencia, traveling only by night, on account of the great heat.
At the hot ^rings of Trinchera, they were surprised to find arums and
fig-trees growing in water which had a temperature of 176°. From
Valencia they descended to Porto Cabello, on the coast, where they
remained until the 1st of March, and then commenced their journey to
the plains of the Orinoco. In the valley of Aragua, Humboldt first saw
the celebrated " cow-tree," the existence of which be had previously
doubted, and of which he gives the following beautiftil description :
** When incisions are made in the trunk of this tree, it yielis abundance
of a glutinous milk, tolerably thick, devoid of all acridity, and of an
agreeable and balmy smell. It was offered to us in the shell of a oala-
bash. We drank considerable quantities of it in the evening before we

servei
made
What
merel;
anoth(
the hu
that nt
is appr
matter
ancient
I ofveg{
' the pro
receive
raent ci
solemn
wrappei
table ju
nature,
dry lea^
For sev
Its bran
flows fr<
that this
\ are then
receive f
empty tl
their chi
In cr
llanos, th
lodged w
charactei
recited tl
names of
agreeable
employee
emperors
the gout.

t among the
5 ill it very
,he eye ; but,
jireen the two
sformcd in'o
same appear-
, of more than
nd myself for
ler of Pichin-
it Blanc." At
jervotions, the
ang when the
ruments went
jks, and it was
overcome with
descent of six
rthe mountjun.
,ugh telescopes,
umey into the
68, or llanos, to
)f the valley of
^alencia; thence
and down that
Valencia, they
the boughs of
feet in circum-
iters, Humboldt
: to one hundred
the dragon-tree
, who cut off a
foloniesofCura,
natives; taking
|ur hours. After
lays to the town
the great heat,
find arums and
of 175°. From
•ast, where they
their journey to
aboldt first saw
had previously
[M description:
ields abundance
idity, and of an
5 shell of a oala-
snmg before we

DBSORIPTION OP THE COW-TRBB.

went to bed, and very early in the morning, without feeling the least
injurious effect. The glutinous character of this milk alone renders it a
little disagreeable. The negroes and the free people who work in the
plantations drink it, dipping into it their bread of maize or cassava. Tlio
overseer of the &rm told us that the negroes grow sensibly fatter
during the season when the pcUo de vaca furnishes thorn with most milk.
This juice, exposed to the air, presents at its surface membrdncs of a
strongly animalizcd substance, yellowish, stringy, and resombling cheese.

" Amidst the great number of curious phenomena which I have ob-
served in the course of my travels, I confess there are few that have
made so powerful an impression on me as the aspect of the cow-tree.
Whatever relates to milk or to com, inspires an interest which is not
merely that of the physical knowledge of things, but is connected with
another order of ideas and sentiments. We can scarcely conceive how
the human race could exist without fiirinaceous substances, and without
that nourishing juice which the breast of the mother contains, and which
is appropriated to the long feebleness of the infant. The amylaceous
matter of com, the object of religious veneration among so many nations,
ancient and modem, is diffused in the seeds, and deposited in the roots
of vegetables ; milk, which serves as an aliment, appears to us exclusively
the produce of animal organization. Such are the impressions we have
received in our earliest infancy : such is also the source of that astonish-
ment created by the aspect of the tree just described. It is not here the
solemn shades of forests, the majestic course of rivers, the mountains
wrapped in eternal snow, that excite our emotion. A few drops of vege-
table juice recall to our n ..".ids all the powerfulness and the fecundity of
nature. On the barren flank of a rock grows a tree with coriaceous and
dry leaves. Its large woody roots can scarcely penetrate into the stone.
For several months of the year not a single shower moistens its foliage.
Its branches appear dead and dried ; but when the trunk is pierced there
flows from it a sweet and nourishing milk. It is at the rising of the sun
that this vegetable fountain is most abundant. The negroes and natives
are then seen hastening fi*om all quarters, furnished with large bowls to
receive the milk, which grows yellow, and thickens at its surface. Some
empty their bowls under the tree itaelfj others carry the juice homo to
their cluldren."

In crossing the mountain-range between the valley of Aragua and the
llanos, the travelers passed a night in the village of Guigue, where they
lodged with an old sergeant, a native of Murcia, a man of a very original
character. To prove to them that he had studied among the Jesuits, he
recited the history of the creation of the world in Latin. He Vnew the
names of Augustus, Tiberias, and Diocletian ; and while enjoying the
agreeable coolness of the nights in an enclosure planted with bananas, he
employed himself in reading all that related to the courts of the Roman
emperors. He inquired of Humboldt with earnestness for a remedy for
the gout, fi'ora which he suffered severely. " I know," said he, " a Zam-

Si J

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF nUMBOLDT.

bo of Valencia, who could euro mo ; but the Zambo would expect to bo
treated with attentions which I can not pay to a man of his color, and I
prefer remaining as I am." On the 9th of March they commenced their
journey on the groat plains. " The sun was almost at its zenith ; tho
earth, wherever it appeared sterile and destitute of vegetation, was at
the temperature of 120°. Not a breath of air was felt at the height at
which we were on our mules ; yet, in tho midst of this apparent calm,
whirls of dust incessantly arose, driven on by those small currents of air
which glide only over the surface of the ground, and are occasioned by
the difference of temperature between the naked sand and the spots cov-
ered with grass. All around us the plains seemed to ascend to the sky,
and the vast and profound solitude appeared like an ocean covered with
sea-weed. On the horizon the earth was confounded with the sky.
Through the dry mist and strata of vapor the trunks of palm-trees were
seen from afar, stripped of their foliage and their verdant summits, and
looking like the masts of a ship descried upon the horizon. There is
something awful, as well as sad and gloomy, in the uniform aspect of
these steppes. Every thing seems motionless; scarcely does a small
cloud, passing across the zenith, and denoting the approach of tho rainy
season, cast its shadow on the earth. I know not whether the first as-
pect of tho llanos excites less astonishment than that of the chain of the
Andes.

" When, beneath the vertical rays of tho bright and cloudless sun of
the tropics, the parched sward crumbles into dust, then the indurated
soil cracks and bursts as if rent asunder by some mighty earthquake.
And if^ at such a time, two opposite currents of air, by conflict moving
in rapid gyrations, come in contact with the earth, a singular spectacle
presents itself. Like funnel-shaped clouds, their apexes touching the
earth, tho sands rise in vapory form through ♦'•o rarefied air in the elec-
trically-clidrged center of the whirling current, sweeping on like the
rushing water-spout, which strikes such terror into the heart of the mar-
iner. A dun and sallow light gleams from the lowering sky over the
dreary plain. The horizon suddenly contracts, and tho heart of the
traveler sinks with dismay as tho wide steppe seems to close upon him
on all sides. The hot and dusty earth forma a cloudy vail which shrouds
the heavens from view, and increases the stifling oppression of the atmos-
phere, while the east wind, when it blows over the long-heated soil,
instead of cooling, adds to the burning glow. Gradually, too, the pools
of water, which had been protected from evaporation by the now seared
foliage of the fan-palm, disappear. As in the icy noith animals become
torpid from cold, so hero the crocodile and the boa-constrictor lie wrapt
in unbroken sleep, deeply buried in the dried soil. Every Avhere the
drought announces death, yet every where the thirsting wanderer is
deluded by the phantom of a moving, undula^ng, watery surface, cre-
ated by the deceptive play of the mirage. A narrow stratum separates
the ground from tho distant palm-trees, which seem to hover aloft, owing

— -di

il expect to bo
lis color, and I
mmenced their
its zenith; tho
etation, was at
t the height at
apparent calm,
currents of Jur
) occasioned by
d the spots cov-
jend to the sky,
an covered with
I with the sky.
palii-trees were
nt summits, and
rizon. There ifl
liform aspect of
ely does a small
>ach of the rainy
sther the first as-
fthochsunofthe

1 cloudless sun of
[en the indurated
ghty earthquake.
|r con&ct moving
singular spectacle
xcs touching the
ed wr in the elec-
sping on like the
heart of the mar-
•ing sky over the
tho heart of the
_,o close upon him
vjul which shrouds
ssionoftheatmoB-
long-heated soil,
illy, too, the pools
by the now seared
■h animals become
[nstrictor He wrapt
Every where the
3ting wanderer is
atery surface, cre-
stratura separates
hover aloft, owing

ASPECTS OF THE LLANOS.

to the contact of currents of air having different degrees of heat and
therefore of density. Shrouded in dark clouds of dust, and tortured by
hunger and burning thirst, oxen and horses scour the plain, tho one bel-
lowing dismally, the other with out-stretched necks snuffing tho wind,
in tho endeavor to detect, by the moisture of tho air, the vicinity of some
pool of water not yet wholly evaporated.

" Tlie mule, more cautious and cunning, adopts another method of
allaying his thirst. There is a globular and articulated plant, the melo-
cactus, which encloses under its prickly integument nn aqueous pulp.
After carefully striking away the prickles with his forefeet, the mule
cautiously ventures to apply bis lips to imbibe the cooling thistle juice.
But the draught from this living vegetable spring is not always un-
attended by danger, and these animals are often observed to have been
lamed by the puncture of the cactus thorn. Even if the burning heat
of day be succeeded by tho cool freshness of tho night, here ahvays of
equal length, the wearied ox and horso enjoy no repose. Hugo bats
now attack the animals during sleep, and vampyre-like suck their blood;
or, fastening on their backs, raise festering wounds, in which mosquitoes,
•hippobosecs, and a host of other stinging insects, burrow and nestle.

" When, after a long drought, the genial season of rain arrives, tho
scene suddenly changes. The deep azure of the hitherto cloudless sky
assumes a lighter hue. Scarcely can the dark space in the constellation
of the Southern Cross be distinguished at night. The mild phosphor-
escence of the Magellanic clouds fades away. Like some distant mount-
ain, a single cloud is seen rising perpendicularly on the southern horizon.
Misty vapors collect and gradually overspread the heavens, while distant
thunder proclaims the approach of the vivifying rain. {Scarcely is the
surface of the earth moistened before t'io teeming steppe becomes
covered with a variety of grasses. Excited by the power of light, the
herbaceous mimosa unfolds its dormant, drooping leaves, hailing, as it
were, the rising sun in chorus with the matin song of the birds and tho
opening flowers of aquatic plants. Horses and oxen, buoyant with life
and enjoyment, roam over and crop the plains. The luxuriant grass
hides the beautifully spotted jaguar, who, lurking in safe concealment,
and carefully measuring the extent of the leap, darts, like the Asiatic
tiger, with a cat-like bound on his passing prey. At times, according to
the account of the natives, the humid clay on the banks of the morasses
is seen to rise slowly in broad flakes. Accompanied by a violent noise,
as on the eruption of a small mud- volcano, the upheaved earth is hurled
high into the air. Those who are familiar with the phenomenon fly
from it ; for a colossal water-snake, or a mailed and scaly crocodile,
awakened from its trance by the first fall of rain, is about to burst from
his tomb.

" When the rivers bounding the plain to the south, as the Arauca,
the Apure, and the Payaro, gradually overflow their banks, nature com-
pels those creatures to live as amphibious animals, which, during the first

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

half of tho year, were perishing with thirst on the watorlcsH and dusty
plain. A part of tho stcppo now presents the appearance of a vast in-
land sea. The mares retreat with their foals to the higher banks, which
project, like islands, above tho spreading waters. Day by day the dry
surface diminishes in extent. The cattle, crowded together, and de-
prived of pasturage, swim for hours about tho inundated plain, seeking a
scanty nourishment from the flowering panicles of the grasses which rise
above the lurid and bubbling waters. Many foals are drowned, many
are seized by crocodiles, crushed by their serrated tails, and devoured.
Horses and oxen may not unfrequently be seen which have escaped from
the fury of this blood-thirsty and gigantic lizard, bearing on their legs
the marks of its pointed teeth."

In traversing these vast plains, which were then parched with the
intcnscst heat, tho travelers journeyed mostly by night, halting occa-
sionally at tho huts of tho herdsmen, who tended the horses and cattle
roaming over tho Avaste. After four or five days, they reached the
town of Calabozo, a place containing about five thousand inhabitants,
where they were hospitably entertained by the superintendent of the
royal plantations. In this remote spot they were greatly surprised to
find a tolerable electrical apparatus made by a native Spaniard, who had
never seen anything of tho kind in his life. He had constructed it
entirely from the description given in Franklin's treatise, and was beside
himself with joy at seeing the strangers arrive with the same machines,
and others, of which he had never even heard. During a stay of a few
days in Calabozo, Humboldt, after much difliculty, succeeded in obtain-
ing some specimens of the gymnotus, or electrical eel. Tho Indians con-
ducted him to a large reservoir of slimy water, near a neighboring vil-
lage ; but it was not found possible to catch the eels with fishing-nets,
as they bury themselves with great agility in the slime. He did not
wish to employ the barbaaco root, which stupefies them Avhen thrown
into the water. Tho Indians then declared that they would be obliged
to " fish with horses," thirty of which they collected in a short time.
Humboldt, who had never heard of this extraordinary manner of fishing,
anxiously awiutod the result, which he thus describes : " The noise oc-
casioned by the stamping of the horses drives the eels out of the slime
and irritates them ; they rise to the sur&ce of the water, and crowd
under the bellies of the horses and mules. A contest between animals
of so different an organization presents a very striking spectacle. The
Indians, provided with harpoons and long slender reeds, surround the
pool closely ; and some climb up the trees, the branches of which extend
horizontally over the surface of the water. By their wild cries, and tho
length of their reeds, they prevent the horses from running away and
reaching the bank of the pool. The eels, stunned by the noise, defend
themselves by the repeated discharge of their electric batteries. For a
long interval they seem likely to prove victorious. Several horses sink
beneath the violence of the invisible strokes which they receive from all

'%t

DT.

itorlcss and dusty
anco of a vast in-
;her banks, which
iy by day the dry
[ogethcr, and de-
}d plain, seeking a
grasses 'vhich rise
re drowned, many
Ills, and devoured,
have escaped from
aring on their legs

I parched with the
light, halting occa- |
ic horses and cattle
they reached the
ousand inhabitants,
perintendent of the
^eatly surprised to
Spaniard, who had
had constructed it
tise, and was beside
the same machines,
•ing a stay of a few
iicceeded in obtain-
il. The Indians con-
ir a neighboring vil-
els with fishing-nets,
slime. He did not
1 them when thrown
ey would be obliged
ed in a short time,
ry manner of fishing,
bes: "The noise oo-
eels out of the slime
te water, and crowd
est between animals
dng spectacle. The
• reeds, surround the
shes of which extend
r wild cries, and the
m running away and
by the noise, defend
trie batteries. For a
Several horses sink
they receive from all

FISHINO FOR ELECTRICAL EBLS.

sides, in organs the most essential to life ; and stunned by the force and
frequency of the shocks, they disappear under the water. Others, pant-
ing, with ma'io erect, and haggard eyes expressing anguish and dismay,
raise themselves, and endeavor to flee from the storm by which they are
overtaken. They arc driven back by the Indians into the middle of the
water ; but a small number succeed in eluding the active vigilance of
the fishermen. These regain the shore, stumbling at every step, and
stretch themselves on the sand, exhausted with fiitigue, and with limbs
benumbed by the electric shocks of the gymnoti.

" In loss than five minutes two of our horses were drowned. The eel
. being five feet long, and pressing itself against the belly of the horses,
makes a discharge along the whole extent of its electric organ. It at-
tacks at once the heart, the intestines, and the cseliac fold of the abdom-
inal nerves. It is natural that the effect felt by the horses should be
more powerful than that produced upon man by the touch of the same
fish at only one of his extremities. The horses are probably not killed,
but only stunned. They are drowned from the impossibility of rising
amid the prolonged struggle between the other horses and the eels.

*' We had little doubt that the fishing would terminate by killing suc-
cessively all the animals engaged ; but by degrees the impetuosity of this
unequal combat diminished, and the wearied gymnoti dispersed. Tliey
require a long rest, and abundant nourishment, to rcpsur the galvanic
force which they have lost by the repeated discharges. The horses and
mules recovered from their terror ; their manes no longer bristled, and
their eyes ceased to glare with fear. The Indians asserted that if the
horses were driven to the same water on two consecutive days, none
would die the second day. The eels now timidly approached the shore,
where they were caught with little harpoons attached to long cords. If
the cords were perfectly dry, no shock was felt while hauling out the
fish, but it was conununicated throitgh the wet cords. In a few minutes
five large eels were caught, which were only slightly wounded, and sev-
eral others were obttuned the same evening. Such is the remarkable
contest between horses and fish. That which constitutes the invisible
but living weapon of these inhabitants of the water — that, which awak-
ened by the contact of moist and dissimilar particles, circulates through
all the organs of animals and plants — ^that which flashing amid the roar
of thunder illuminates the wide canopy of heaven — ^which binds iron to
iron, and directs the silent recurring course of the magnetic needle — all,
like the varied hues of the refracted ray of light, flow from one common
source, and all blend together into one eternal all-pervading power.

" The gymnotus h neither a charged conductor, nor a battery, nor an
electromotive apparatus, the shock of which is received every time they
are touched with one hand, or when both hands are employed to form a
conducting circle between the opposite poles. The electric action of the
fish depends entirely on its will ; because it does not keep its electric
organs always charged, or whether by the secretion of some fluid, or by

' '.f .1

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

any other means alike mysterious to us, it be capable of directing the
action of its organs to an external object. Wo often tried, both insulated
and otherwise, to touch the lish, without feeling the least shock. When
M. Bonpland held it by the head, or by the middle of the body, while I
held it by the tail, and, standing on the moist ground, did not take each
other's hand, one of us received shocks which the other did not feel. It
depends upon the gymnotus to direct its action toward the point where
it finds itself most strongly irritated. The discharge is then made at one
jioint only, and not at the neighboring points. If two persons touch the
belly of the fish with their fingers, at an inch distance, and press it
simultaneously, sometimes one, sometimes the other, will receive the
shock. It would be temerity to expose ourselves to the first shocks of
a very large and strongly irritated gymnotus. If by chance a stroke bo
received before the fish is wounded or wearied by long pursuit, the pam
and numbness arc so violent that it is impossible to describe the nature
of the feeling they excite. I do not remember having ever received
from the discharge of a large Lcydcn jar, a more dreadful shock than
that which I ex])erienced by imprudently placing both my feet on a
gymnotus just taken out of the water. I was affected during the rest
of the day with a violent pain in the knees, and in almost every joint."

The travelers lefl Calabozo on the 24th of March, and continued
their journey over the desolate llanos. On the way they found an In-
dian girl lying in the road, almost lifeless, and with her mouth and nos-
trils filled with sand. They restored her to consciousness and gave her
some wine and water, but she refused to accompany them, and wandered
off alone. In three days they reached the Mission of San Fernando, on
the Apure river, one of the principal tributaries of the Orinoco. Here
was the commencement of their canoe voyages on the Apure, the Orin-
oco, the Cassiquiare, and the Rio Negro, which lasted for three months.
During this journey they were ac&ompanied by Don Nicholas Soto,
brother-in-law of the governor of the province. They hired a large
canoe, called a lancha by the natives. It had a cabin, covered with
palm-leaves, in the stem, and was managed by a pilot and four Indiana.
Provision for a month — consisting of fowls, plaintains, and cassava bread,
to which the Capuchins added some Xeres wine — ^was placed on board,
and a supply of fishing-tackle, ammunition, and some brandy for the
Indians, laid in. Hiunboldt made notes of every thing which occurred
on the voyage, either during the day, or after the canoe had halted for
the night. Owing to this habit, his narrative has an unmistakable stamp
of truth and reality. They passed the last plantation on the second day,
and then entered a territory inhabited entirely by jaguars, crocodiles,
manati, or river-cows, and pecarries. The Apure, which grew broader as
tliey descended, was bordered by dense forests, the trees of which were
full of monkeys and birds. The river abounded with fish and tortoises,
while huge crocodiles, often twenty feet in Icn^h, basked on the sand.
Notwithstanding the numbers of these latter animals, the r^y season

' directing the
, both insulated
Hhock. When
D body, while I
1 not take each
lid not feel. It
;hc point where
len made at one
irsona touch the
c, and press it
vill receive the
3 first shocks of
anco a stroke be
)ur8uit, the pain
cribe the nature
g ever received
idful shock than
h my feet on a
i during the rest
•St every joint."
I, and continued
liey found an In-
r mouth and nos-
less and gave her
m, and wandered
Jan Fernando, on
B Orinoco. Here
Apure, the Orin-
for three months,
ti Nicholas Soto,
ey hired a large
jin, covered with

and four Indians,
md cassava bread,

placed on board,
e brandy for the

g which occurred
joe had halted for
imistakable stamp
)n the second day,
iguars, crocodiles,
;h grew broader aa
ees of which were

fish and tortoises,

aked on the sand.

8, the rmny season

NIGHT IN THE TROPICAL FOUKSTS.

had not yet commenced, and thousands of them were still lying dormant
in the mud of the plains. In those wildernesses, where man lives in con-
stant strife with nature, the conversation turns much upon the means by
which one can escape the pursuit of a tiger, or a crocodile ; all prepare
themselves to encounter the danger. The crocodile loosens its hold
if the person seized thrusts his finger into its eyes, and the travelers
beard of several instances of escape in this manner.

Humboldt gives the following picturesque description of the noc-
turnal noises of animals in the forests of the Apure : "Below the mission
of Santa Barbara do Arichuna we passed the night as usual in the o])c>n
air, on a sandy flat, on the bank of the Apure, skirted by the impene-
trable forest. Wo had some difficulty in finding dry wood to kindle the
fires with which it is here customary to surround the bivouac, as a safe
guard against the attacks of the jaguar. The air was bland and soft,
and the moon shono brightly. Several crocodiles approached the bank ;
and I have observed that fire attracts these creatures as it docs our
crabs and many other aquatic animals. The oars of our boats were fixed
upright in the ground, to support our hammocks. Deep stillness pre
vailed, only broken at intervals by the blowing of the fresh-water dol-
phins, which are peculiar to the river net-work of the Orinoco. After
eleven o'clock, such a noise began in the contiguous forest, that for the
remainder of the night all sleep was impossible. The wild cries of ani-
mals rung through the woods. Among the many voices which resound-
ed together, the Indians could only i ecognize those which, after short
pauses, were heard singly. There wbs the monotonous, plaintive cry
of the howling monkeys, the whining, flute-like notes of the small sapa*
jous, the grunting murmur of the striped nocturnal ape, the fitful roar
of the great tiger, the cougar, or maneless American lion, the peccary,
the sloth, and a host of parrots, parraquas, and other pheasant-like birds.
Whenever the tig-^rs approached the edge of the forest, our dog, who
before had barked incessantly, came howling to seek protection under
the hammocks. Sometimes the cry of the tiger resounded from the
branches of a tree, and was then always accompanied by the plaintive
piping tones of the apes, who were endeavoring to escape from the im-
wonted pursuit.

" If one asks the Indians why such a continuous noise is heard on
certain nights, they answer, with a smile, that ' the animals are rejoicing
in the beautiful moonlight, and celebratuig the return of the full moon.'
To me the scene appeared rather to be owing to an accidental, long
continued, and gradually increasing conflict among the animals. Thus,
for instance, the jaguar will pursue the peccaries and the tapirs, which,
densely crowded together, burst through the barrier of tree-like shrubs
which opposes their flight. Terrified at the confusion, the monkeys on
the tops of the trees join their cries with those of the larger animals.
This arouses the tribes of birds who build their nests in communities, and
suddenly the whole animal world is in a state of commotion. Further

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF nUlIBOLDT.

cxpcrionco taught un, that it wns by no means always the fcstiva? of
muonliglit that diHturbud tho fitilhiesa of tho forest ; for we observed
that the voices were loudest during violent storms of rain, or when the
thunder echoed, and tho lightning flashed through tho depths of tho
woods. Tho good-natured Franciscan monk who accompanied us through
tho cataracts of Atures and Maypurcs to 8an Carlos, on the Rio Negro,
and to the Brazilian frontier, used to say, when apprehensive of a storm
nt night, ' ]^Iay heaven grant a quiet uigbt both to us and to tho wild
beasts of tho forest !' "

Tlio next day, Humboldt was fiH'orod with another and oven moro
unwelcome experience. " While my companions were preparing din-
ner," ho says, "I walked along the beach to get a near view of a group
of crocodiles sleeping in the sun. Some little herons, white as snow,
walked along their backs, and even upon their headf , as if passing over
trunks of trees. Tho crocodiles wcro of a greenish gray, half covered
with dried mud ; from their color and immobility they might have been
taken for statues of bronze. This excursion hod nearly proved fatal to
me. I had kept my eyes constantly turned toward the river; but,
while picking up some spangles of mica in the sand, I discovered the
recent footsteps of a tiger, easily distinguishable from their form and
size. The animal had gone toward tho forest, and turning my eyes on
that side, I found myself within eighty paces of a jaguar that was lying
under tho thick foliage of a ceiba. No tiger had ever appeared to mo
so large. There are accidents in life against which we may seek in vain
to fortify our reason. I was extremely alarmed, yet sufficiently master
of myself and of my motions to enable mo to follow the advice which
tho Indians had so often given us as to how we ought to act in such
cases. I continued to walk on without running, avoided moving my
arms, and I thought I observed that the jaguar's attention Avas fixed on
a herd of capybaras which was crossing the river. I then began to
return, making a large circuit toward the edge of the water. As the
distance increased, I thought I might accelerate my pace. How oflen
was I tempted to look back, in order to assure myself that I was not
pursued ! Happily I yielded very tardily to this desire. The jaguar
had remained motionless. I arrived at the boat out of breath, and re-
lated my adventure to the Indians."

On the afleiTioon of tho 4th of April, afler a voyage of six days on
the Apure, they entered the Orinoco. An immense plain of water
stretched before them like a sea. White-topped waves, caused by a
wind blowing against the current, rose to the height of several feet. The
distant horizon was bounded by a zone of level forests. Humboldt found
the Apure, at the junction, to be one thousand two hundred feet in
brtadth, and the Orinoco twelve thousand one hundred and eighty ;
during the rainy season the latter river attains a breadth of thirty-five
thousand feet, or nearly seven miles. Sailing lip the Orinoco, they
touched at the port of Enoaramada, where they first saw some specimens

nSHINO FOR TURTLE'S E008.

;hc festival of
»r we observed
,n, or when the
depths of tho
lied U8 through
the Rio Negro,
give of a storm
nd to tho wild

and oven more
preparing dm-
lew of a group
white as snow,
if passing over
ly, half covered
night have been
■ proved fatal to
the river; but,
discovered the
their form and
ling my eyes on
,r that was lying
' appeared to mo
nay seek in vain
fficiently master
;he advice which
it to act in such
led moving my
ion was fixed on
I then began to
water. As tho
ace. How often
that I was not
ire. The jaguar
)f breath, and re-

je of six days on
I plain of water
ves, caused by a
several feet. The
Humboldt found
hundred feet in
red and eighty;
idth of thirty-five
le Orinoco, they
V some specimens

of the naked Caribs. Thoy were bound for a sandy inland in tho river,
celebrated for its fisheries of turtle's eggs. HiimboUlt and lionpland
reached this island next day, and found there the missionary of Uruann,
who was greatly astonished at seeing thorn. After having admired their
instruments, ho gave them nn exaggerated picture of tho suflbrings to
which they would bo necessarily exposed in ascending tho Orinoco
beyond tho cataracts. Tho object of their jouniey appeared to him
very mysterious. " How is it possible to believe," said he, " that you
have left your coimtry, to come and bo devoured by mosquitoes on this
river, and to measure lands that aro not your o\vn ?" While halting at
the island, they witnessed the method of collecting turtle's eggs, and
extracting the oil. Tlio turtle always lays its eggs at tho time of tho
lowest water, beginning at night, immediately after ?«un8et. It digs a
pit two feet deep, and then commences tho work, which iVequently lasts
all night. There are such numbers that if one turtle finds a hole, which
has not been filled up, from the haste of its owner on being surprised by
the sunrise, he deposits a second layer of eggs over the top of tho first.
The egg-gatherers investigate tho situation and extent of these deposits
with a long pole, which, Mhcn pressed perpendicularly into tho soil, re-
veals tho looser sand below, on which the eggs lie. The harvest is then
gathered in with methodical regularity. According to the number of In-
dian tribes, the soil is divided into certain districts, for the deposits of eggs
are found three feet deep, one hundred and twenty feet from the shore.
When they have sounded with the poles, the Indians dig up the soil
with their hands, and break the eggs into wooden troughs filled with
water, after which they expose them to the rays of the sun until the
yellow, upper, oily part thickens. This oil is then skimmed off and
boiled, and if none of tho eggs contain embryo tortoises, it is very pure
and of an agreeable flavor. A space on tho shore, one hundred and twenty
feet long, and thirty feet broad, gives one hundred jars of oil, and five
thousand eggs are required to fill a single jar. It is estimated that tho
quantity of eggs taken from the island, amounts to thirty-three millions 1
in the afternoon the travelers had a narrow escape from shipwreck.
The boat, struck by a violent gust of wind, was thv >^vn on hej^beam
ends, and was only righted by the breaiang of some cordage,' and tho
change of the wind. All their plants and books were sobmergod, and
Hnmboldt saved his journal with difficulty. When at nightfall ho
bivouacked on a sterile island in the stream, eating his evening meal in
the moonlight, seated on tortoise shells, he realized the great danger he
had escaped. He had only been on tho Orinoco three days, and a
voyage of three months, involving far greater risks, was before him.
•* There are moments in life," he wrote, " in which, without absolutely
despairing, the future seems very uncertain; one is more apt to indulge
in serious reflection, when, after having escaped a danger, he has need
of a strong emotion.'* While he meditated thus, lying upon a skin

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP HUMBOLDT.

spread on the ground, the jaguars swam across the stream, and prowled
around hira.

The next day they passed the mouth of the Arauca river and the
Mission of Uruana, a village of five hundred inhabitants, most of whom
belonged to the clay-eating Otomao tribe. Beyond this point the river
became narrower and the current stronger. They continued to ascend
under 8.ail, but the high and woody grounds deprived them of wind. In
the strait of Baraguan, as it is called, where the river is but a mile in
breadth, they found almost perpendicular masses of granite, seven hun-
dred feet high. On the 0th of April they reached an Indian settlemenjt,
called Pararuma, where the pilot, who had conducted them from San
Fernando, and who was unacquainted with the passage of the rapids of
the Orinoco, refused to go further. Fortunately, they succeeded in
bringing an excellent canoe, to replace the kmcha, and Father Bernardo
Zta, missionary of Atures, near the cataract, offered to accompany them
to the frontiers of Brazil. Humboldt gives the following description of
their outfit and manner of voyaging : " The new canoe, intended for us
was, like all Indian boats, a trunk of a tree hollowed out partly by the
hatchet and partly by fire. It was forty feet long, and three broad.
Three persons could not sit in it side by side. These canoes arc so
crank, and they require, from their instability, a cargo so equally dis-
tributed, that when you want to rise for an instant, you must warn the
rowers to lean to the opposite side. Without this precaution the water
would necessarily enter the side pressed down. It is difficult to form an
idea of the inconveniences that are suffered in such wretched vessels.
To gain something in breadth, a sort of lattice-work had been constructed
on the stern with branches of trees, that extended on each side beyond
the gunwale. Unfortunately, the toldo, or roof of leaves, that covered
this lattice-work, was so low that we were obliged to lie down, without
seeing any thing, or, if seated, to sit nearly double. The necessity of
carrying the canoe across the rapids, and even from one river to another ;
and the fear of giving too much hold to the wind, by making the toldo
higher, render this construction necessary for vessels that go up toward
the Rio Negro. The toldo was intended to cover four persons, lying on
the deck or lattice-work of brush-wood ; but our legs reached far beyond
it, and when it rained half our bodies were wet. Our couches consisted
of ox-hides or tiger-skins spread upon branches of trees, which were
painfully felt through so thin a covering. The fore part of the boat was
filled with Indian rowers, furnished with paddles, three feet long, in the
form of spoons. They were all naked, seated two by two, and they
kept time in rowing with a surprising uniformity, singing songs of a sad
^and monotonous character. The small cages containing our birds and
our monkeys — the number of which augmented as we advanced — were
hung some to the toldo and others to the bow of the boat. This was
our traveling menagerie. Every night, when we established our watch,
our collection of animals and our instruments occupied the center ; around

chaiJ

)T.

n, and prowled

i river and the
, most of whom
point the river
inued to ascend
em of '.vind. In
13 but a mile in
initc, seven hun-
idian settlement,
them from San
of the rapids of
ey succeeded in
Father Bernardo
accompany them
ig description of
1, intended for us
out partly by the
ind three broad.
;30 canoes are so
fo so equally dis-
ou must warn the
laution the water
iifficult to form an
wretched vessels,
i been constructed
each side beyond
ives, that covered
Ue down, without
The necessity of
e river to another ;
r making the toldo
hat go up toward
r persons, lying on
reached far beyond
• couches consisted
trees, which were
irt of the boat was
se feet long, in the
by two, and they
Ting songs of a sad
ling our birds and
re advanced— were
le boat. This was
iblished our watch,
the center ; around

VOYAGE UP THE ORINOCO.

these were placed first our hammocks, then the hammocks of the Indians ;
and on the outside were the fires, which are thought indispensable against
the attacks of the jaguar. About sunrise the monkeys in our cages an-
swered the cries of the monkeys of the forest.

" In a canoe not three feet wide, and so incumbered, there remained
no other place for the dried plants, trunks, sextant, a dipping-needle, and
the meteorological instruments, than the space below the lattice-work
of branches, on which we were compelled to remain stretched the greater
part of the day. If we wished to take the least object out of a trunk,
or to use an instrument, it was necessary to row ashore and land. To
these inconveniences were joined the torment of the mosquitoes which
swarmed under the toldo, and the heat radiated from the leaves of the
palm-trees, the upper surface of which was continually exposed to the
solar rays. We attempted every instant, but always without success, to
amend our situation. While one of us hid himself under a sheet to ward
off the insects, the other insisted on having green wood lighted beneath
the toldo, in the hope of driving away the mosquitoes by the smoke. The
painful sensations of the eyes, and the increase of heat, already stifling,
rendered both these contrivances alike impracticable. With some gayety
of temper, with feelings of mutual good-will, and with a vivid taste for
the majestic grandeur of these vast valleys of rivers, travelers easily sup-
port evils that become habitual."

On the 10th of April they commenced their voyage in this narrow
craft, slowly ascending the Orinoco. They were hospitably received at
the Mission of Carichana, and on the second day passed the mouth of
the Meta, one of the largest tributaries of the Orinoco, with a volume of
water equal to that of the Danube. It is navigable as far as the foot of
the Andes of New Grenada, within twenty leagues of Bogota, the cap-
ital, The Orinoco now began to rise, much to the surprise of the Indians,
as the rainy season had not yet fairly set in. On the 13th, afler passing
the rapids of Tabaje, they reached the Mission of San Borja, where they
found a number of converted Guahibo Indians. The interest with which
they examined these creatures, ocasioned, singularly enough, the desertion
of the mission. The Guahihos of the forest persuaded their brethren that
the whites, on their return, would carry them off as slaves, and they all fled
into the woods. They had much difficulty in conversing with the differ-
ent tribes which they met with on the river, and were sometimes obliged
to employ several interpreters at the same time. They were, however,
in no danger from hostile attacks, the Jesuits having subjugated the
natives by force of arms, before they administered their spiritual conso-
lations. One of these priests said to Humboldt, with great candor, " The
voice of the Gospel is heard only where the Indians have also heard the
sound of fire-arms. By chastising the natives, we facilitate their con-
version."

The river Orinoco, in its course from south to north, is crossed by a
chain of granite mountains. Twice condncd in its course, it turbulently

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

breaks on the rocks, which form steppes and transverse dykes. " Neither
the fall of Tequcndama," says Humboldt, " nor the magnificent scenes
of the Cordilleras, could weaken the impression produced upon my mind
by the first view of the rapids of Atures and of Maypures. When the
spectator is so stationed that the eye can at once take in the long succes-
sion of cataracts, and the immense sheet of foam and vapor illumined by
the rays of the setting sun, the whole river seems, as it were, suspended
over its bed." They reached the Mission of Atures, at the foot of the first
cataract, on the evening of April 15. During this day's voyage they were
struck with the supernatural silence of the tropical noonday : " Not a
breath of air moved the dust-liko sand. The sun stood in the zenith ;
and the efiVilgence of light poured upon the river gave additional dis-
tinctness to the red haze which vailed the distance. All the rocky
mounds and naked boulders were covered with large, thick-scaled igua-
nas, gecko-lizards, and spotted salamanders. Motionless, with uplifted
heads and widely-extended mouths, they seemed to inhale the heated air
with ecstasy. The larger animals at such times take refuge in the deep
recesses of the forest, the birds nestle beneath the foliage of the trees, or
in the clefts of the rocks ; but if in this apparent stillness of nature we
listen closely for the faintest tones, we detect a dull, muffled sound, a
buzzing and humming of insects close to the earth, in the lower strata
of the ati osphere. Everything proclaims a world of active organic
forces. In every shrub, in the cracked bark of trees, in the perforated
ground inhabited by hymenopterous insects, life is everywhere audibly
manifest. It is one of the many voices of nature revealed to the pious
and susceptible spirit of man." They found the cataract of Atures to be
a succession of rapids, extending over a distance of four or five miles, in
which the entire fall of the river was about thirty-two feet, presenting a
striking resemblance to the cUtaraots of the Nile, while the method of as-
cending tl.em in canoes is almost precisely similar to that employed by the
Egyptian'!. When the dikes, or natural dams, are only two or three feet
high, the Indians venture to descend them in boats. In going up the river,
they swiia on before, and if, after many vain eflforts, they succeed in fix-
ing a ropu to one of the points of rock that crown the dike, they then,
by means of that rope, draw the bark to the top of the rapid. The bark,
during thib arduous task, often fills with water ; at other times it is stove
agauist the rocks, and the Indians, their bodies bruised and bleeding,
extricate thtmselves with difficulty from the whirlpools, and reach, by
swimming, t'ae nearest island. Wben the steppes or rocky barriers are
very high, and entirely bar the river, light boats are carried on shore, and
with the help of branches of trees placed under them to serve as rollers,
-they arc drawn as fiir as the place where the river again becomes nav-
igable. This operation is seldom necessary when the water is high.

After two days spent at Atures, Humboldt_and Bonpland continued
their voyage, still accompanied by Don Nicholas Soto and Father Ber-
nardo Zea. They now began to suffer indescribable torments from the

SUFFERINOS FROM MOSQUITOES.

rkes. " Neither
piificent scenes
[ upon my mind
es. When the
the long succes-
)or illumined by
were, suspended
■ foot of the first
oyage they were
onday: "Not a
1 in the zenith;
e additional dis-
AU the rocky
thick-scaled iguar
388, with uplifted
ale the heated air
.fuge in the deep
re ofthe trees, or
ess of nature we
muffled sound, a
1 the lower strata
of active organic
in the perforated
eiywhere audibly
Baled to the pious
ict of Aturestobe
ur or five miles, in
feet, presenting a
e the method of as-
at employed by the
y two or three feet
going up the river,
they succeed in fix-
16 dike, they then,
e rapid. The bark,
ler times it is stove
aised and bleeding,
iool8,and reach, by
• rocky barriers are
arried on shore, and
1 to serve as rollers,
agtun becomes nav-
B water is high,
rjonpland continued
to and Father Ber-
6 torments from the

mosquitoes and venomous flics by day, and the zancudos (a species of
large gnats) by night. These pests would bite through thick garments,
and could not be driven away by smoke. They came in such clouds
that the mouths, ears, and noses of the travelers were filled with them.
Their bands were swollen and covered with hard, painful blotches, and
they were at last able to tell the time of day by the regularity with
which the different varieties of stinging insects made their visitations.
On the upper Orinoco, the principal topic of conversation, both among
the natives and the missionaries, is mosquitoes. Tiie usual salutations
are : " How did you find the gnats during the night ?" " How are you
off for mosquitoes to-day ?" which reminded Humboldt of an ancient
Chinese manner of greeting : "Have you been incommoded in the night
by serpents?" " The lower strata of air," he writes, " from the surface
ofthe ground to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, arc absolutely filled
with venomous insects. If in an obscure spot, for instance in the grottos
of the cataracts formed by superincumbent blocks of granite, you direct
your eyes toward the opening enlightened by the sun, you see clouds of
mosquitoes more or less thick. I doubt whether there be a country upon
earth, where man is exposed to more cruel torments in the rainy season.
Having passed the fifth degree of latitude, you are somewhat less stung ;
but on the upper Orinoco the stings are more painful, because the heat
and the absolute want of wind render the air more burning and more
irritating in its contact with the skin. ' How comfortable must people
be in the moon !> said a Salive Indian to Father Gumilla ; ' she looks so
beautiful and so clear, that she must be free from mosquitoes.' These
words, which denote the infancy of a people, are very remarkable. The
satellite ofthe earth appears to all savage nations the abode ofthe bless-
ed, the country of abundance. The Esquimaux, who counts among his
riches a plank or trunk of a tree, thrown by the currents on a coast
destitute of vegetation, sees in the moon plains covered with forests ;
the Indian ofthe forests of Orinoco there beholds open savannahs, where
the inhabitants are never stung by mosquitoes."

Two more days brougul them to the great cataract, or rapid of May-
pures, which they reached after night, in the midst of a violent rain.
Father Zea lighted torches of copal, and conducted them to the misnion,
where they renuuned while the Indians dragged the canoe up the rapids.
At the northern end of the principal cataract, which has a fall of nine
feet perpendicular, there is a lofty rock called Eeri, so named from a
luminous white spot, in which the Indians perceive a remarkable similar-
ity to the moon. Humboldt was not able to climb the rock, but sup-
posed the white spot to be an immense piece of quartz in the dark
granite. On an opposite rock, the Indians showed a similar disc, which
they called Camosi. and worshiped as an image of the sun. The best
view ofthe cataract, is from the rock of Manimi, a granite ridge near
the mission of Maypures. "We often visited this mountain,*' says Hum-
boldt, " for we were never weary of gazing on the astonishing spectacle.

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

From the summit of the rock is descried a sheet of foam, extending the
length of a whole mile. Enormous masses of stone, black as iron, issue
from its bosom. Some are grouped in pairs, like basaltic hills ; others
resemble towers, fortified castles, and ruined buildings. Their gloomy-
tint contrasts with the silvery splendor of the foam. Every rock, every
islet is covered with vigorous trees, collected in clusters. As far as the
eye can reach, a thick vapor is suspended over the river, and through
this whitish fog the tops of the lofty palm-trees shoot up. Such is the
character of the landscape discovered from the top of the mountain of
Manimi, which no traveler has yet described. The calm of the atmos-
phere, and the tumultuous movement of the waters, produce a contrast
peculiar to this zone. Here no breath of wind ever agitates the foliage,
no cloud vails the splendor of the azure vault of heaven ; a great mass
of light is diffused in the air, on the earth strewn with plants with glossy
leaves, and on the bed of the river, which extends as far as the eye can
reach. When the rays of the glowing evening sun are refracted in the
humid atmosphere, an exquisite optical illusion is produced. Colored
bows appear, vanish, and re-appear, while the ethereal picture dances,
like an ignis fatuus, with every motion of the sportive breeze. In the
blue distance the eye rests on the mountain chain of Cunavami, a far-
stretching range of hills which terminates abruptly in a sharply truncated
cone. We saw this conical hill, called by the Indians Calitamini, glow-
ing at sunset as if in crimson flames. This appearance daily returns. No
one has ever been in the immediate neighborhood of this mountain.
Possibly its dazzling brightness is produced by the reflecting surface of
decomposing talc, or mica schist."

VOYAGES ON THE RIO NEGRO AND CASSIQUIARE.

On the 2l8t of April, they re-embarked in their narrow canoes,
which had suffered considerable damage by striking against the rocks.
The rainy season had now &irly set in ; there were heavy showers al-
most duly, and as the wind never blows in these regions, they suffered
terribly from mosquitoes. They made good progress, however, and on
the night of the 24th entered the Guaviare, the largest tributary of the
Orinoco, then the Atabapo, which flows into it from the south, near its
junction with the former river, and reached the .uission of San Fer-
nando. Humboldt now found himself on the spot where he could be
enabled to verify the celebrated bifurcation of the Orinoco, which had
been previously doubted by geographers. Tlie upper Orinoco, near
tlje mission of Esmeralda, divides itself into two parts, one of which,
flowing westward, receives the Guaviare and other tributaries, and con-
tinues its way to the Caribbean Sea ; the other, turning southward,
forms a branch of the Rio Netrro, and mingles its waters with those of
the Amazon. This extraordinary geographical feature, the only instance

extending the
as iron, issue
c hills; others
Their gloomy
ity rock, every

As far as the |
p, and through |
p. Such is the
he mountain of
n of the atmos-
iduce a contrast
ites the foliage,
1 ; a great mass
ints with glossy
r as the eye can
refracted in the
luced. Colored
picture dances,
breeze. In the
Ziunavami, a far-
harply truncated
3alitamini, glow-
aily returns. No
f this mountain,
icting surface of

SIQUIARE.

■ narrow canoes,
gainst the rocks,
leavy showers al-
jns, they suffered
however, and on
i tributary of the
he south, near its
ssion of San Fer-
here he could be
inoco, which had
er Orinoco, near
rts, one of which,
butaries, and con-
ming southward,
:er8 with those of
the only instance

PLAN OF FURTHER EXPLORATION.

of the kind on a large scale, was first satisfactorily established by Hum-
boldt's explorations. The mission of San Fernando de Atabapo was the
threshold of the comparatively unknown region which he was to pene-
trate. '' D''.ring the night," he says, " we had left, almost unperceived,
the waters of the Orinoco; and at sunrise found ourselves as if trans-
ported to a new country, on the banks of a river, the name of which we
had scarcely ever heard pronounced, and which was to conduct us, by
the portage of Pimichin, to the Rio Negro, on the frontiers of Brazil.
' You will go up,' said the president of the missions, who resides at San
Fernando, ' first the Atabapo, then the Temi, and finally, the Tuamini.
When the force of the current of "black waters" hinders you from ad-
vancing, you will be conducted out of the bed of the river through
forests, which you will find inundated. Two monks only are settled in
those desert places, between the Orinoco and the Rio Negro; but at
Javita you will be furnished with the means of having your canoe drawn
over land in the course of four days to the rivulet of Pimichin. If it be
not broken to pieces you will descend the Rio Negro without any ob-
stacle as far as the little fort of San Carlos ; you will go up the Cassi-
quiare (from south to north), and then return to San Fernando in a
month, descending the upper Orinoco from east to west.' Such Avas
the plan traced for our passage, and we carried it into effect without
danger, though not without some suffering, in the space of thirty-three
days."

Aft;er resting a day at the mission, they commenced their voyage up
the Atabapo, the water of which was of a much darker hue and purer
quality than that of the Orinoco. The banks were entirely concealed
by the dense growth of palms and other trees. In order to shoiten the
journey, the Indians left the main bed of the river and took narrow
channels (occasioned by the nuns), which led directly through the
forests. The foliage was so dense that no ray of sunlight could pene-
trate it, and they were often obliged to hew with knives a passage for
the canoe. On the 30th of May, they left the Atabapo, and entered a
branch called the Temi. Near the junction of the two rivers stands a
granite mound, called the " Mother's Rock," on account of a touching
history which it commemorates Three years previous, the missionary
at San Fernando had undertaken a hostile expedition among the Indians
for the purpose of capturing souls. Among other prisoners taken was a
woman who was surprised alone in a hut, her husband having gone off
on a hunting expedition, accompanied by the children. After being
carried to San Fernando, the desire to see her children induced her to
attempt an escape. She fled repeatedly, but was as often caught and
brought back, and violently flogged, without effect. It was then deter-
mined to send her to the distant missions on the Rio Negro, whence it
would be impossible for her to return. While the canoe was passing up
the Atabapo, she flung herself into the stream and was thrown ashore at
the foot of the rock. Again she escaped into the woods, but was again

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP HUMBOLDT.

caught brought back to the rock, and most cruelly beaten. She was
then taken to the mission of Javita and closely contiued, but in spite of
her wounds she took advantage of a dark and stormy night to unfasten
with her teeth the cords which bound her and again fled in search of her
children. For four days and nights she wandered through a tracklrss
forest, then inundated and swarming with venomous reptiles. She swam
the swollen rivers ; her flesh was torn with thorns and spiky leaves ; her
only food was the large black ants which she caught ; but after this
iticvediblo labor she reached her children, only to be torn away from
them shortly afterward, for the last time. The missionaries threw her
into a cell, where she refused all nourishment in her despair, and thus
died. Humboldt exclaims, after relating this story : " If man scarcely
leaves a trace of his existence in this wilderness, the name of this rock,
an imperishable monument of nature, will remain as u r^emorial of tho
moral perversity of our age, of the contrast between the virtue of the
savage and tho barbarism of civilized man !"

On the Ist of May they left the river Temi, and advanced a short
distance up one of its branches, the Tuamini, to the mission of Javita,
tho commencement of tho portage of five miles through the forests to
the rivulet of Pimichin, which flows into the Rio Negro. They were
detained five days by the transportation of the canoe. Twenty-three
Indians were employed in dragging it, using tho branches of trees as
rollers. The travelers employed the time in botanizing, and in collecting
information concerning the Indian tribes. When the portage was per-
formed — happily without injury to the canoe — they proceeded on foot to
the Pimichin, through a forest swarming with venomous vipers. On tho
6th of May they embarked on the Pimichin, and in five hours afterward
entered the Rio Negro. Their perseverance was at last rewarded.
" We had now been confined thirty-six days in a narrow boat, so un-
steady that it would have been overturned by any person rising impru-
dently from his seat, without warning tho rowers. We had suffered
severely from the sting of insects, but we^ had stood the insalubrity of
the climate ; we had passed >vithout accident the great number of water-
falls and bars, which impede the navigation of the rivers, and often ren-
der it more dangerous than long voyages by sea. After all we had
endured, it may be conceived that we felt no little satisfaction in having
reached the tributary streams of the Amazon, having passed the isthmus
that separates two great systems of rivers, and in being sure of having
fiilfilled the most important object of our journey, namely, to determine
astronomically the course of that arm of the Orinoco which fells into the
Rio Negro, and of which the existence has been alternately proved and
denied during half a century. In proportion as we draw near to an
object we have long had in view, its interest seems to augment. The
uninhabited banks of the Cassiquiare, covered »nth forests, without me-
morials of times past, then occupied my imagination, as do now the
banks of the Euphrates, or the Oxus, celebrated in the annals of civil-

VOYAGE ON THE CAS81QUIARB.

itcn. She was
but in spite of
ght to unfasten
in search of her
,ugh a trackless
lies. She swam
liky leaves ; her
; but after this
torn away from
laries threw her
espair, and thus
If man scarcely
me of this rock,
iT^emorial of tho
he virtue of the

dvanced a short
lisaion of Javita,
rh the forests to
gro. They were
B. Twenty-three
nches of trees as
;, and in collectuig
portage was per- !
)ceeded on foot to
IS vipers. On tho
e hours afterward
at last rewarded,
irrow boat, so un-
•Bon rising impru-
We had suffered
the insalubrity of
number ofwater-
ers, and often ren-
After all we had
isfaction in having
passed the isthmus
ng sure of having
nely, to determine
which fells into the
•nately proved and
draw near to an
to augment. The
jrests, without me-
m, as do now the
the annals of civil-

ized nations. In that interior part of the New Continent one may almost
accustom one's self to regard men as not being essential to the order of
nature. The earth is loaded with plants, and nothing impedes their free
development. An immense layer of mold manifests the uninterrupted
action of organic powers. Crocodiles and boas are masters of the river ;
the jaguar, the peccary, the dante, and the monkeys traverse the forest
without fear and without danger ; there they dwell as in an ancient inher-
itance. This aspect of animated nature, in which man is nothing, has
something in it strange and B.ad. Here, in a fertile country, adorned
with eternal verdure, we seek in vain the traces of the power of man ;
we seem to be transported into a world different from that which gave
us birth. These impressions are the more powerful in proportion as they
are of long duration."

After a voyage of only two days down the rapid current of the Rio
Negro, passing the Missions of Maroa and Davipe, the travelers reached
San Carlos, the last Spanish station, and the termination of their travels
southward. Here there was a small military post, and the command-
ant received them with great hospitality. From San Carlos the mouth
of the Amazon could have been reached in the same time as that of the
Orinoco, and Humboldt was for a moment tempted to continue Ids jour-
ney. It was very fortunate that he did not carry this idea into effect.
The government of Brazil had heard of his travels, and through a spirit
of jealous suspicion, had given orders to its agents to seize the travelers,
with their instruments, journals, etc., in case they crossed the ft-ontier,
and forward them to Lisbon. On the 10th, Humboldt and Bonpland
started on their return. Soto and Father Zea would have preferred re-
turning by the same route they hod come, but the former, anxious to
explore the Cassiquiare — the Orinoco branch of the Rio Negro— per-
suaded them to acquiesce in their plan. They found the two rivers, at
their junction, nearly equal in breadth ; the current of the Cassiquiare,
however, was very strong — sometimes eight miles an hour — and their
progress was slow. At one of the missions on its banks he obtained
positive information of the cannibal habits of the native tribes. The
priest informed him that one of the native chiefs, a few years before, had
carefully fettened and then eaten one of his own wives. Infanticide is
also very common, and when an Indian woman bears twins one of them
is instantly killed, because they consider it a vile thing for a human being
to bring forth more than one, like an opossum or peccary. The travel-
ers spent ten nights on the Cassiquiare, tormented with gnats, mosquitoes,
and ants. The passage became more troublesome in proportion as they
approached the Orinoco. " The luxuriance of the vegetation increases
in a manner of which it is diiScult even for those acquainted with the
aspect of the forests between the tropics, to form an idea. There is no
longer a bank : a palisade of tufted trees forms the margin of the river.
You see a canal twelve hundred feet broad, bordered by two enormous
walls, clothed with parasitic vines and foliage. We often tried to land.

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

but without 8UCCC8S. Toward sunset we would Bail along for an hour
seeking to diHCover, not an opening (since none exists), but a spot less
wooded, where our Indians by means of the hatchet and manual labor,
could clear space enough for a resting-place for twelve or thirteen per-
sons. It was impossible to pass the night in the canoe ; the mosquitr es,
w hich tormented us during the day, accumulated toward evening beneath
the toldo covered with palm-leaves, which served to shelter as tirom the
rain. Our hands and &ces had never before been so much swelled.
Father Zea, who had till then boasted of having in his missions of the
cataracts the largest and fiercest mosquitoes, at length gradually acknowl-
edged that the sting of the insects of the Cassiquiare was the most pain-
ful ho had ever felt. We experienced great difficulty, amid a thick
forest, in finding wood to make a fire, the branches of the trees being
so full of sap that they would scarcely burn. The view of the river, and
the hum of the insects, were a little monotonous ; but some remains of
our natural cheerfulness enabled us to find sources of relief during our
wearisome passage. We discovered, that by eating small portions of
dry cacao ground with sugar, and drinking a large quantity of the river
water, we succeeded in appeasing our appetite for several hours. The
ants and the mosquitoes troubled us more than the humidity and the
want of food. Noth withstanding the privations to which we were ex-
posed during our excursions in the Cordilleras, the navigation on the
Cassiquiare has always appeared to as the most painful part of our tray-
els in America."

RETURN TO CUMANA.

They reached the Orinoco on the 21st of May, and proceeded three
miles up the stream, to the missionary station of Esmeralda. At the
bifurcation of the river rises the granite mountain of Daida, eight thou-
sand feet high, which forms a splendid feature in the landscape. During
a stay of two days at Esmeralda, Humboldt had an opportunity of wit-
nessing the preparation of the celebrated cfurare poison, which is ob-
tained from the juice and bark of a particular plant, highly concentrated
by boiling and filtration. When it comes in contact with the blood it
is immediately fatal, and no remedy for it has yet been discovered ; bat
it may be swallowed not only with safety, but with great advantage, in
cases of gastric derangement. It is prepared by a skillful Indian, who
has the title of " poison-master." While Humboldt was witnessing the
process, the master, who had a wounded finger, incantioasly allowed
some of the poison to touch it. He instantly fell to the ground, as if
stunned, but the poison was fortunately in a diluted state, and the man's
life was saved by the application of muriate oj* soda. Humboldt him-
self had also a narrow escape from a similar &te. The poison ran out of
a bottle which was badly stopped, and saturated his stookmgs. He per-

pires,

thede

These!

THE CAVER*' OP ATARUIPB.

inc for an hour
but a spot leas
1 manual labor,
or thirteen per-
the mosquitf es,
evening beneath
jlter us tirom the
» much swelled,
missions of the
aduallyacknowl-
is the most poin-
y, amid a thick
* the trees being
of the river, and
Bome remjuna of
relief during our
mall portions of
ntity of the river
eral hours. The
humidity and the
lich we were ex-
avigation on the
, part of our trav-

l proceeded three
tneralda. At the
Dmda, eight thou-
mdscape. During
pportunity of wit-
ison, which is ob-
ghly concentrated
with the blood it
n discovered ; but
reat advantage, in
killful Indian, who
tras witnesang the
jautiously allowed
the ground, as if
bate, and the man's
Humboldt him-
poison ran out of
lockings. He per-

ceived the glutinous feeling as he was about to put them on, and an his
feet were covered with sores from the bites of insects, such an act would
have been certain death. When the travelers Ictl Esmeralda, they were
in a very weak and languid condition, caused by the torments of insects,
bad food, and confinement in the narrow and damp canoe. After spend-
ing another night at the junction (or rather disjunction), of the Cassi-
quiare, they floated with the current, the river being free from shoals,
and in thirty-iive hours reached the mission of Santa Barbara, a distance
of nearly a hundred and fifty miles. On the 27th, they arrived at the
mission of San Fernando de Atabapo, which they had left more than a
month before. They remained but a day to rest, and then floated, in
seventeen hours, to the cataract of Maypures, where they were obliged
to Avait two days for the passage of their canoe. Another day brought
them to the cataract of Atures. Hert. they landed before sunset, on
the eastern bank of the Orinoco, in ordci to visit the cavern of Ata-
ruipe, which is the place of sepulture of an extinct nation.

Humboldt thus describes his visit to this remarkable c&ve: "The
surrounding scenery has a grand and solemn character, which seems to
mark it as a national burial-place. With difficulty, and not without
danger of being precipitated into the depths below, we clambered a steep
and perfectly bare granite rock, on whose smooth surface it would be
hardly possible to keep one's footing were it not for large crystals of
feldspar, which, defying the action of weather, project an inch or more
from the mass. On gaining the summit, a wide prospect of the sur-
rounding country astonishes the beholder. From the foaming bed of
the river rise hills richly crowned with woods, while beyond its western
bank the eye rests on the boundless savannah of the Meta. On the hor-
izon loom like threatening clouds the mountains of Uniama. Such is
the distant view ; but immediately around all is desolate and contracted.
In the deep ravines of the valley moves no living thing save where the
vulture and the whirring goat-sucker wing their lonely way, their heavy
shadows gleaming fitfully past the barren rock. The caldron-shaped
valley is encompassed by mountains, whose rounded summits bear huge
granite bouMers, measuring from forty to more than fifty feet in diam-
eter. They appear poised on only a single point of the surface, as if
the slightest diock of the earth would hurl them down. The further
side of this rocky valley is thickly wooded. It is in this shady spot that
the cave of the Ataruipe is situated ; properly speaking, however, it is
not a cave, but a vault formed by a far projecting and overhanging cliiT,
— a kind of bay hollowed out by the waters when formerly at this high
level. This spot is the grave of an extinct tribe. We counted about
six hundred well-preserved skeletons, placed in as many baskets, formed
of the stalks of palm-leaves. These baskets, called by the Indians mo-
pires, are a kind of square sack varying in size according to the age of
the deceased. Even new-bom children have each their own mapire.
These skeletons are so perfect, that not a rib or a finger is wanting.

LIFK AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

"Tho Indians assured me that the corpNc wus Ituriinl during several
months in a moist earth, which gradually destroyed the tlesii ; and that
after being disinterred, any particles of tlesh Ntiil adhering to the bones
were H(;ru])ed off with sharp stones. This practice is still continued
among many tribes of Guiana. Besides these baskets, or raapires, we
saw many unis of half-bunied clay, which appear to contain the bones of
whole families. The largest of these urns are upward of three feet in
height, and nearly six feet in length, of an elegant oval form, and green-
ish color ; with handles shaped like crocodiles and serpents, and the rims
bordered with flowing scrolls and labyrinthine figures. These ornaments
are precisely similar to those which cover the walls of the Mexican
palace at Mitla. They are found in every clime and every stage of
human culture — among the Greeks and Romans, no less than on the
shields of Otaheitans, and other South Sea islanders — in all regions
where a rhythmical repetition of regular forms delights the eye. The
causes of these resemblances, as I have explained elsewhere, are rather
to be referred to psychical conditions, and to the inner nature of our
mental qualifications, than as affording evidence ui favor of a common
origin and the ancient intercourse of nations.

" Our interpreters could give us no certain information regarding the
age of these vessels; but that of the skeletons did not in general appear
to exceed a hundred years. There is a legend among the Guareko
Indians, that the brave Atures, when closely pursued by the cannibal
Caribs, took refuge on the rocks of the cataracts — a mournful place of
abode — in which this oppressed race perished, together with its language 1
Li the most inaccessible portion of the rapid, other graves of the same
character are met with ; indeed it is probable that the last descendants
of the Atures did not become extinct until a much more recent period.
There still lives, and it is a singular fact, an old parrot in Maypures which
can not be understood, because, as the natives assert, it speaks the Ian-
guage of the Atures !

'■'■ We lefl the cave at night&U, after haying collected, to the extreme
annoyance of our Indian guides, several skulls and the perfect skeleton
of an agod man. One of these skulls has been delineated by Blumen-
bach in his admirable craniological work; but the skeleton, together
with a large portion of our natural history collections, especially the
entomological, was lost by shipwreck off the coast of Africa on the same
occasion when our friend and former traveling companion, the young
Franciscan monk, Juan Gonzalez, lost his life. As if with a presentiment
of this painful loss, we turned from the grave of a departed race with
feelings of deep emotion. It was one of those clear and delicious cool
nights BO frequent beneath the tropics. The moon stood high in the
z'6nith, encircled by a halo of colored rings, her rays gilding the margins
of the mist, which in well defined outline hovered like clouds above the
foaming flood. Innumerable insects poured tKeir red phosphorescent
light over the herb-covered surface, which glowed with living fire, as

THE OTOMAC INDIANS.

1 (Itiriiig several
HuhIi ; and that
iig to the bones

still continued '
, or luapires, wo
un the bones of

of three feet in
form, and green-
its, and the rims
riicsc ornaments
of the Mexican

every stage of j
ess than on the j
3 — in all regions
,8 the eye. The
vhere, arc rather j
ler nature of our
or of a common

ion regarding the
1 general appear
ng the Guareke

by the cannibal
lournful place of
vith its language I
aves of the same

last descendants
>re recent period.
I Maypures which
t speaks the Ian-

id, to the extreme
e perfect skeleton
lated by Blumen-
keleton, together
ins, especially the
ifiica on the same
)anion, the young
th a presentiment
eparted race with
nd delicious cool
tood high in the
Idbg the margins
clouds above the
d phosphorescent
irith living fire, as

though the starry canopy of heaven hud sunk ufwn the grassy plain.
Climbing bignonio, fragrant vanillas, and guldeu-tlowcred bunistcria.s,
adorned the entrance of the cave, while the rustling palm-loaves waved
over the resting-place of the dead. Thus pass away the generations of
men ! — thus perish the records of the glory of nations ! Yet when every
emanation of the human mind has iaded — when in the storms of time
the monuments of man's creative art are scattered to the dust — an ever
new life springs fi'om the bosom of the earth. Unceashigly prolific na-
ture unfolds her germs, regardless though sinful man, ever at war with
himself tramples beneath his foot the ripening fruit 1"

After taking leave of the good monk. Father Zea, who was ill and
remained at the mission, Humboldt and Bonpland ventured to pass the
last half of the cataract of Atures in the laden boat. They landed
several times on the rocks wliiuh connect the single islands by abrupt
dikes ; sometimes the waves dashed over these dikes, and sometimes
found an outlet through subterranean channels. The travelers crept
into one of the caverns under the rocks ; its damp walls were covered
with confervas, which they gathered, while overhead the torrent fell with
a fearful noise. As the Indians had left them in the middle of the rapid
to circumnavigate a bmall island in the canoe, they were obliged to spend
some time on the rock in a violent storm. The night bad already set in,
and their situation without shelter was dismal in the extreme. The lit-
tle monkeys, which they had carried with them for months in wicker
biiskets, attracted the crocodiles by their cries, thus refuting the assertion
of the Indians that these animals are never seen in the rapids. After a
long time the canoe arrived at the foot of the island, having safely accom-
plished the passage ; they re-shipped their instruments and collections,
and were soon afloat on the broad waters of the lower Orinoco. On the
7th of June they reached the Mission of Uruana, inhabited by the Oto-
raacs — a tribe of Indians who are noted for their habit of eating dirt.
They select an unctuous kind of clay, which they make into cakes and
bake in the fire. They are very fond of this diet, which, during the
height of the rainy season, constitutes their principal food. Notwith-
standing it contains little or no nutritive quality, these Indians are robust
and healthy. It is supposed that they use the oil of turtles' eggs, and
the fat of the crocodUe, in connection with it. They are a turbulent
and passionate people, and strongly addicted to the use of palm-wine and
other intoxicating drinks. They also throw themselves into a peculiar
state of intoxication by the use of a powder called ntopo, made from the
seeds of a species of acacia, and inhaled through the forked bone of a
bird, the extremities of which are applied to the nostrils. The powder is
so stimulating that the smallest portion of it occasions violent sneezing in
those unaccustomed to its use.

A further voyage of nine days, without particular incident, brought
the travelers to Angostura, the capital of Spanish Guiana, where they
arrived on the 16th of June. Humboldt thus describes his feelings,

LIFB AND TRAVBLS OF HUMBOLDT.

on this return to rivilisation : " It would bo tlifticult for mo to oxprcm
tlio Kiitislikctiuti we folt on landing at AngoHturu. Thu iiuoiivunienccs
endured at hcu in Hinall vcBflda are trivial in eompariHon with those that
arc Hiifi'ered under a burning Hky, surrounded by Hwarms of nioMquitocH,
and lying Htretched in a canoe, without the poHttibility of taking tho
least bodily exercise. In seventy-five days we had performed a passage
of five hundred leagues — twenty to a degree — on tho five great rivers,
Apure, Oruioco, Atabaiw, Kio Negro, and Cossiquiaro ; and in this vast
extent wo had found but a very small number of inhabited places. Com-
ing from an almost desert country, wo were struck with tho bustle of
the town, though it contained only six thousand inhabitants. Wo
admired the conveniences which mdustry and commerce furnish to civil-
ized man. Humble dwellings appeared to us magnificent ; and every
person with whom wo convei-sed, seemed to be endowed with stiperior
intelligence. Long privations give a value to tho smallest enjoyments ;
and I can not express the pleasure we felt, when we saw for the first timo
wheaten bread on the governor's table."

Soon after their arrival, they were both attacked with fever on tho
same day, and Bonpland's condition became so serious that his recovery
was almost despaired of. This mistbrtuno detained them at Angostura
until the 10th of July, when ihey crossed the Orinoco for the last timo
and commenced their journey across the llanos to Now Barcelona. Their
collections of plants and geological specimens greatly augmented their
baggage, owing to which circumstance they were obliged to travel very
slowly. Tlie heat was excessive, and as there was no wind, they found
the journey very toilsome. At the end of tho third day they reached
tho Mission of Can, the inhabitants of which belonged to the ancient
Carib tribe which Columbus found on this coast. They are a very tall
race, many of them being six feet in height. Their features are more
regular, with a more intelligent expression, than those of the other Indian
tribes. The men are more clothed than the women, who are almost
naked, the want of clothing being much less important than the absence
of red paint on their bodies. They asked Humboldt for pins, which they
immediately stuck into their lower lips. Leaving the mission, six more
days brought the travelers in sight of the mountain-chain of Cumana
— ^which divides the llanos from the Caribbean Sea — rising like a cloud
in the distance. On the 23d of July they reached New Barcelona, ex-
hausted by the hot sand-winds of the plains. Bonpland soon reguned
his health and activity, but Humboldt experienced an attack of ty-
phus fever, which was then prevalent, and was unable to travel for a
month.

Anxious to reach Cumana, in order to avail themselves of the first
opportunity that might offer for a passage to Vera Cruz, they hired an
open boat, which was employed in the contraband trade with Trinidad,
and for that reason imagined they had nothing to Tear from the English
cruisers. They shipped their instruments, plants, and monkeys, and set

LAST VISIT TO OUMANA.

»o to cxprow
loiivouienccs
th those that
' luoiMiuitoeH,
•f taking tho
icd a pasHage
great rivers,
d in this vast
places. Com-
the bustle of
ibitants. Wo
unish to civil-
nt ; and every
with superior
t enjoyments;
r the first time

I fever on tho
\t his recovery
1 at Angostura
the last time
rcelona. Their
igmented their
1 to travel very
,nd, they found
y they reached
to the ancient
are a very tall
turea are more
he other Indian
vho are almost
lan the absence
(ins, which they
ssion, six more
ain of Cumana
ig like a cloud
r Barcelona, ex-
soon regtuned
attack of ty-
to travel for a

ves of the first
8, they hired an
3 with Trinidad,
■om the English
lonkeys, and set

sail ; but had not gone for before they came in sight of' :;:i nrmod boat,
which hailed them, and fired at them sinuiltuneou.sly. It lioloiiged to a
Halifax privateer, and among the passengers was a I'ruHsiait Nuilor, from
whom Humboldt heard his native language, for tho ilist tuao since his
departure. He protested against tho seiznre, but without efiect; they
were carried on board the privateer, and the captain declared their boat
to be a lawful prize. At this juncture, an English sloop-of-war, tho
Ifawk, which was cruising in those seas, hove in sight and ordered tho
privateer to lay to. A midshipman was sent on board, who, on learning
the difliculty, took Humboldt with him on board tho sloop. Tho cap-
tain of the latter, Qamier, who had voyaged with Vancouver, and was a
man of considerable intelligence, had heard of Humboldt's expedition
through the English newspapers. He introduced him to his officers,
some of whom had accompanied Lord Macartney to China, gave him his
own state-room for the night, ordered tho boat to be given up, and sent
the travelers on their way in the morning. Before noon they saw the
fortress of Cumana, strikingly relieved, from its whitcnesH, against the
dark curtain of the inland mountains. '*Wo gazed Aviih interest on tho
shore," says Humboldt, " where we first gathered plants in America, and
where, some months later, M. Bonpland had been in such danger.
Among the cactuses, that rise in columns twenty feet high, appear the
Indian huts of the Guaykerias. Every part of the landscape was familiar
to us; the forest of cactus, the scattered huts, and that enormous ceiba,
beneath which we loved to bathe at the approach of night. Our friends
at Cumana came out to meet us : men of all castes, whom our frequent
herborizfitions had brought into contact with us, expressed the greater
joy at sight of us, as a report that we had perished on tho banks of the
Orinoco had been current for several months."

VISIT TO CUBA.

They waited at Cumana for the arrival of the packet from Oomnna
to Vera Cruz ; but the strictness of the English blockade was such that
they were detained two months and a half! As no packet arrived, and
an American vessel was about to leave New Barcelona for Cuba, they
determined to take passage in her, and on the 16th of November, afler
a stay of sixteen months in Venezuela, bade a final adieu to their friends
at Cumana. They beheld with emotion the silver disc of the full moon
illuminating the cocoa-trees on the banks of the Manzanares, for the last
time, but the breeze was strong, and in six hours they had reached New
Barcelona. The American vessel sailed on the evening of November
24th, and after a very tempestuous passage of twenty-five days, reached
Havana on the 19th of December. Humboldt mado astronomical observ-
ations during the passage, whenever it was possible, and tested the ac-
curacy of the position of the ree& and islands which they passed. His

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

approach to the shores of Cuba was announced by the delicious aromatio
odors which blew from off the land.* The travelers were the guests of
Count O'Reilly and Soflor Cuesta during their stay at Havana, which
was about three months. They employed their time, until the end of
February, in making observations in and around the city, and in the
neighboring plains of Guines. About the end of February, having com-
pleted the observations they proposed making at the northern extremity
of the torrid zone, they were on the point of embarking for Vera Cruz,
mtending to cross Mexico, sail to the Philippine IslandH, and return to
Europe by way of India and Persia, when a rumor (which afterward
proved false) concerning the French expedition of Captain Baudin, in-
duced them to change their plans. It was stated that this expedition
had departed from France, bound for the coast of Chili and Peru, whence
it would sail for Australia.

TRAVELS AMONG THE ANDES.

The projects which Humboldt had fonned before leaving Paris were
instantly revived. He determined to sail to Carthagetia, cross the isth-
mus to the Pacific, and await Baudin's arrival in Lima or Valparaiso.
But it was first necessary to forward to Europe his largo collection of
objects of natural history. " Bonpland and I," he says, " resolved in-
stantly to divide our herbals into three portions, to avoid exposing to
the risks of a long voyage the objects we had obtained with so much
difficulty on the banks of the Orinoco, the Atabapo, and the Rio Negro.
We sent one collection by way of England to Germany, another by way
of Cadiz to France, and a tliird remained at Havana. We had reason
to congratulate ourselves on this foresight: each collection contained
nearly the same species, and no precautions were neglected to have the
cases, if taken by English or French vessels, remitted to Sir Joseph
Banks, or to the professors of natural history at the Museum at Paris.
It happened fortunately that the manuscripts which I at first intended to
send with the collection to Cadiz were not intrusted to our much
esteemed friend and fellow-traveler. Fray Juan Gonzalez, who had fol-
lowed us to Havana with the view of returning to Spain. He left the
island of Cuba soon after us, but the vessel in Avhich he sailed foundered
on the coast of Africa, and the cargo and crew were all lost. By this
event we lost some of the duplicates of our herbals, and what was more
important, all the insects which M. Bonpland had, with great difficulty,
collected during our voyage to the Orinoco and the Rio Negro. By a
singular fatality we remained two years in the Spanish colonies without
receiving a single letter from Europe ; and those which arrived in the
three following years made no mention of what we had transmitted.

• In approaching Cubs ftom the north in July, 18i9, we were met Beveral miles from
ahoro by the same fragrant land wind, freighted with the balms of the tropica. — B. T.

con

tine:
on a

VOYAOK TO CARTHAGENA.

icious aromatic
2 the guests of
Havana, which
tttil the end of
ity, and in the
•y, having com-
;hem extremity

for Vera Cruz,
1, and return to
?hich afterward
itjun Baudin, in-

this expedition
id Peru, whence

iving Paris were j
a, cross the isth- |
la or Valparjuso.
rge collection of
rs, "resolved in-
roid exposing to
d with BO much
1 the Rio Negro.
, another by way
We had reason
ection contained
icted to have the
id to Sir Joseph
jduseum at Paris,
first intended to
jd to our much
Icz, who had fol-
wn. He left the
>, sailed foundered
all lost. By this
id what was more
1 great difficulty,
Lio Negro. By a
colonies without
;h arrived in the
had transmitted.

jet several miles from
the tropics. — B. T.

The reader may imagine my imeasincss for the fate of a journal which
contained astronomical observations, and barometrical measurements, of
which I had not made any copy. After having visited New Grenada,
Peru, and Mexico, and just when I was preparing to leave the New Con-
tinent, I happened, at a public library of Philadelphia, to cast my eyes
on a scientific publication, in which I found these words : * Arrival of M.
de Humboldt's manuscripts at his brother's house in Paris, by way of
Spain !* I oould scarcely suppress an exclamation of joy."

They experienced some difficulty in obtaining passage to Carthagena,
but finally chartered a Spanish sloop lying at Batabauo, on the southern
shore of the island, and set sail on the 0th of March, 1801. The cabin
was merely a hold for provisions, and they were obliged to live on deck,
where the thermometer stood at 90° in the shade. " Luckily these in-
conveniences lasted only twenty days," says Humboldt, with the resigna-
tion of a genuine traveler. Coasting along the southern shore, in five
days they reached Trinidad de Cuba, where they were treated with much
distinction by the Governor. A grand party was assembled to entertain
them in the evening, and an ecclesiastic, habited in velvet, notwithstand-
ing the heat, declaimed a sonnet, celebrating their voyage on the Ori-
noco. They set sail the next day, and after a rough passage of sixteen
days, again reached the South American continent, at the mouth of the
river Sinu, which the captain entered to shelter his frail vessel from the
storms. This was at that time an almost unvisited region, and the bo-
tanical zeal of the travelers led them into a situation of great danger.
Having rowed ashore to collect plants by moonlight they would have
fallen into an ambuscade of naked men, armed and laden with chains —
— probably escaped criminals — if they had not retreated cautiously to
the vessel. On the 30th of March they reached Carthagena, where,
after consultation with the authorities, they were persuaded to give up
their intention of crossing the isthmus to Panama, and to choose instead
the route to Guayaquil, by way of Bogota and Quito. This change of
direction gave Humboldt occasion to trace the map of the Rio Magda-
lena, to determine astronomically the position of eighty points situated
in the inland country between Carthagena, Popayan, and the upper val-
ley of the Amazon and Lima, to discover the error in the longitude of
Quito, to collect several thousand new plants, and to observe, on a vast
scale, the relation between the rocks of syenitic porphyry and trachyte
and the active fire of volcanoes.

The travelers remained six days at Carthagena, making preparations
for their journey. During this time, Humboldt visited the remarkable
air-volcanoes of Turbaco, lying in the midst of palm-groves, near the
Indian village of the same name. These volcanoes consist of eighteen
or twenty cones of gray mud, a few yards in height, with miniature
craters filled with water at the top. Every few minutes a strong jet or
exhalation of azotic gas takes place, accompanied with a loud, snorting
sound. In ascending the Magdaleno, Bonpland explored the rich botan-

'V»1ii.Mg'«

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP HUMBOLDT.

ical treasures of the shore, while Humboldt drew a chart of the river
district, in spite of the oppressive climate, and the tortures of the mos-
quitoes. At the town of Honda, they left the river, and proceeded on
mules to Bogota, having been thirty-five days on the journey. In the
latter place the travelers remained until September, occupying them-
selves Avith botanical and geographical researches, and with excursions
to the many interesting spots in the vicinity. The most striking of
these was the cascade of Tequendama, which Humboldt considers one
of the most beautiful in the world. " The scenery comprises every thing
which can render a view eminently picturesque : the cascade is not the
highest in the world, but there is no other which combines so great a

S^sS*;

FALLS OF TEQUEKDAUA.

height with such a mass of water. The river is half the breadth of the
Seine, at Paris, and precipitates itself, in two bounds, a depth of five
hundred and seventy feet. In approaching the cascade, one sees around
him oaks and other trees which recall the vegetation of Europe ; then
all at once he beholds, as from a tower, the palm, the banana, and the
sugar-cane at his feet. Owing to this circumstance, the inhabitants of
Bogota say that the river of Tequendama leaps at one bound from a cold
to a hot climate. The appearance of the tropical vegetation at the bot-
tom of the ravine is the more interesting to them, as they live on a table-
land where the thermometer often descends to the freezing-point. The
solitude of the place, the richness of the vegetation, and the frightful
roar of the waters, make the foot of the cascade oT Tequendama one of
the wildest and most savage scenes among the Cordilleras.

THE PASS OF QUINDIU.

t of the river
es of the mo9-
proceeded on
irney. In the
copying them-
vith excursions
)st striking of
; considers one
sea every thing
jade is not the
lines so great a

breadth of the
a depth of five
one sees around
f Europe ; then
}anana, and the
inhabitants of
)und from a cold
ation at the bot-
y live on a table-
zing-point. The
nd the frightful
ucndama one of
aa.

Leaving Bogota toward the end of September, Ilumboldt and Bon-
pland started on their journey to Quito, by way of Popayan. They
crossed the central chain of the Andes, by the remarkable pass of Quin-
diu, the highest point of which is eleven thousand three hundred
feet above the sea. The mountain of Quindiu is covered with uninhab-
ited forests, and can not be passed in less than twelve days. Travelers
are obliged to carry provisions for a month, because it often happens
that a sudden swelling of the mountain torrents prevents them from
either going backward or forward. The path in many places is a ravine,
or crevasse, so narrow as barely to allow the passage of the oxen which
carry the baggage. The light of day can scarcely penetrate to the bot-
tom, and the obscurity is increased by the thick vegetation overhead.
If the traveler meets with any of these laden animals in such a place, ho
must either retrace his steps, or seize hold of a stout root and draw him-
self up out of their reach. The rich inhabitants are transported on the
backs of men, who toe called cargtterot, and follow this business for a
livelihood. Like horses, they are si 3cted according to their strength,
their surenen of fi>ot, and their easy gdt. Tliey cany a sort of chair,
strapped to the dioulders, in which the traveler sits, looking backward,
and easily accomplish a journey of dght or nine hovra a day. Like
horses, also, their backs often become sore under the saddle, and they
run the same risk of being abandoned on the road if they fall sick ; but
they are, n^svertheless, cheerful and attached to their business, which is
not looked upon as degrading. Humboldt and Bonpland would not
consent to use this method of transportation, but traveled on foot, bare-
footed, at the head of their caravan of twelve oxen, who carried their
instruments and collections. Ttie path was in a tenacious clayey soil,
which made walking very &tiguing, added to which the oxen have the
habit of stepping always in the same tracks, so that they gradually form
a succession of deep holes, which are soon filled up with soft mud, in
which the traveler sinks to his knees. It was in the rsuny season, and
they found the journey exceedingly laborious and fiitiguing. The In-
dians carried with them packages of the leaves of a species of banana,
covered with a resinous varnish, which is impervious to moisture. With
these and some poles cut in the woods they constructed a tent every
night, so that the travelers were always certain of a dry lodging-place.
They finally reached the valley of the Cauca, which they ascended ^o
Popayan, visited the snowy volcanoes of Purace and Sotara, and con-
tinued their journey, by way of the town of Piasto, to Quito, where they
arrived on the 6th of January, 1802, nearly four months after leaving
Bogota.

Humboldt soon recovered from the hardships of the journey, in the
bracing and equable climate of Quito, and remained for nearly nine
months, employed in his geological and botanical studies ; his sense for
natural beauty and sublime landscapes finding abundant food for grati-
fication in the splendid landscapes of the plain of Quito, with its views

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

of the snowy cones of tho Andes. These grand conical peaks, then su])-
posed to be the highest in the world, tempted him to attempt the ascent
of their almost inaccessible aides. He climbed to the snow-line of Coto-

THE VOLCANO OF C0T0?AZI.

paxi, the highest volcano in the world, which, in the year 1738, threw up
a pillar of flame a mile in height, and made its bellowings heard at the
distance of five hundred miles. Finding it impossible to reach the sum-
mit, he next tried the volcano of Pichincho, lying nearer Quito, and after
two unsuccessful attempts reached the crater on the 26th of May. He
did not find it filled with snow, as Condamine and Bouger had done
nearly seventy years before, but inflamed and preparing for an eruption,
a circumstance which, on his return to Quito, filled the inhabitants with
alarm. While on the summit of this volcano, Humboldt came near
losing his life. While attempting to cross a deep chasm, the fragile
bridge of snow gave way under him, and he was only saved by the
presence of mind of an Indian, who held him on the brink, at the im-
minent risk of losing his own balance.

After having surmounted Pichincha, which is about fifteen thousand
four hundred feet above tho sea, and obtained an equal elevation on tho
side of Cotopaxi, Humboldt determined to make an attempt to scale
Chimborazo, which was then believed to be the highest peak of the
Andes.* Accompanied by Bonpland and a young Spanish naturalist,

* It has been since owertained that Sorata and Illimani, in Bolivia, and tho peak of
Aconcagua, in Cliili, are higher than Chimborazo, all oT tiiem having an altitude of over
twenty-three thousand feet.

^mmm

1 peaks, then sup
ittempt the ascent
mow-line of Coto-

year 1738, threw up [
lowings heard at the
)le to reach the sum-
jarer Quito, and after
le 26th of May. He
id Bouger had done
iring for an eruption,

the inhabitants with

lumboldt came near

sp chasm, the fragile

only saved by the

the brink, at the im-

bout fifteen thousand
qual elevation on the
an attempt to scale
highest peak of the
g Spanish naturalist,

Bolivia, and tho peak of
having an altitude of over

ASCENT OF THE CHIMBORAZO.

Don Carlos de Montufar, he proceeded to the table-land of Tapia, nine
thousand tour hundred and thirty-four feet above the level of the Pacific
Ocean, and on the 22d of June commenced the expedition to Chimbor-
azo. They followed the plain, slowly ascending, to the Indian village
of Calpi, at the foot of the mountain, where they halted for the night.
The next morning they started early, and began the ascent. They de-
termined to climb the mountain from the south-south-eastern side, and
the Indians who acted as guides — although few of them had ever reached
the limit of the eternal snow — also gave this route the preference. Tho
base of Chimborazo consists of great plains, rising like terraces one
above the other. They first crossed the llano of Luisa, and then, after
a gradual ascent of about a mile, reached that of Sisgun, twelve thousand
four hundred and thiity feet above the sea. Here, on the level floor of
the plain, Humboldt M'ished to make a trigonometrical measurement, in
order to ascertain the height of the summit, for which purpose be had
brought along bis sextants and other instruments; but the peak was
shrouded in dense clouds. They then continued ascending to the little
lake of Yana-Cocha, which b a circular basin of not more than one hundred
and thirty feet in diameter. The sky became more and more obscured,
but they had occasional glimpses of the head of Chimborazo through the
openings of the clouds. Much snow had fiillen during the previous night,
and they were obliged to leave their mules at this point, which is con-
siderably below the line of perpetual snow. The barometer showed that
they had attahied a height of fourteen thousand three hundred and fifty
feet. A short distance above Yana-Cocha, the grass began to disappear,
and they reached a region of naked augite rocks, which rose in columns
to the height of fifty or sixty feet, and at a distance resembled trees or
masts. Following these rocky pillars through the fields of snow, they
finally reached a narrow ridge, or comb, running directly toward the
summit, by which alone it was possible to advance ; for the snow was so
soft and yielding that they did not dare to walk upon it.

The path became more and more steep and narrow. The guides all
left them, except one, at the height of sixteen thousand five hundred
and twenty-five feet : neither threats nor persuasions would induce them
to go further. They then reimuned alone — ^Humboldt, Bonpland, Carlos
de Montufar, and a mestizo from the neighboring village of San Juan.
With great labor and perseverance they continued to ascend, though
they were enveloped in thick mist. The roclyy comb, which the natives
appropriately called a " knife-blade," was in fnany places not more than
eight or ten inches broad. On the left was a declivity of snow, covered
with a glassy coating of ice, while on the right they looked into a chasm
a thousand feet deep, with immense masses of naked rock at the bottom.
Nevertheless, they were obliged to incline their bodies to this side, for
the snowy pitch on the left seemed even more dangerous, because there
was no possibility of either arresting their descent, or of preventing them
from sinking deep in the loose snows. The difiiculty of ascending was

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

now increased by the brittle, disintegrated character of the rock. In
some places they were obliged to crawl painfully on their hands and feet,
which, wounded by the sharp edges, marked their path with their own
blood. They marched in single file, carefiiUy testing the stability of the
rock as they proceeded — a very necessary operation, as many of tho
masses were lying loose on the brink. Their previous experience in
climbing Pichincha, Cotopaxi, and Antisana here proved to be of great
service, besides teaching theui how best to husband their fast diminish-
ing strength. As the summit was almost constantly hidden from view,
they became very desirous of knowing how much remained to be as-
cended, and Humboldt opened the barometer at a pomt where the comb
was broad enough to allow two persons to sit side by side. The mercury
indicated a height of eighteen thousand three hundred and eighty feet,
or about two hmidred feet higher than they had ascended, three months
previously, on the cone of Antisana, by climbing a very similar ledge.
They were a little disappointed at finding themselves still so far from the
point of their ambition. The temperature of the air was 87°, and that
of the earth 42°.

After another hour of cautious climbing, the rocky comb became less
steep, but the mist was thicker than ever. They now began, one after
another, to suffer from the extreme rarefaction of the air. The tendency
to vomit, combined with vertigo, was much more disagreeable than the
difficulty of breathing. Their lips and gums bled profusely, and their
oyeUds and eyeballs were injected with blood. The mestizo suffered
more than the others. They were by no means alanned at these symp-
toms, which they had experienced during former ascents. Hiunboldt,
in fact, had once fallen senseless near the summit of Pichincha, and re-
mained in that condition for some time, mitil found by his guide. The
belts of cloud finally parted, although the air was quite still, and they
suddenly saw, apparently quite near at hand, the great dome of Chimbo-
razo. It was a grand and solemn spectacle. The hope of soon standing
apon its topmost pinnacle invigorated their strength anew. The ledge
became a little broader, and they went forward with more security for
ft few minutes, when all at once a chasm, four hundred feet deep and sixty
feet broad, yawned across their path. They distinctly saw beyond the
chasm, the same ledge going forward in the same direction, but the gulf
was not to be passed. They were stopped by an insurmountable obstacle,
in full view of their goal. It was one o'clock in the afternoon, and they
were benumbed with cold, although the temperature was no lower than
29°. The barometer indicated a height of nineteen thousand two hun-
dred and thirty feet above the sea, and, according to Humboldt's calcu-
lation, thirteen hundred below the summit. This was the highest point to
' which any human being had ever ascended on the sides of the mount-
ains. It has only been surpassed a single time since then, when Boussin-
gault and Colonel Hall, in December, 1831, 'reached an elevation of

■MM

MHhi

I" the rock. In
■ hands and feet,
with their own
3 stability of the
as many of the
IS experience in
d to be of great
At fast diminish-
dden from view,
imained to be as-
fc where the comb
ae. The mercury |
I and eighty feet, i
led, three months
ery similar ledge. ■
till BO far from the 1
was 37°, and that

comb became less j
V began, one after i
tur. The tendency |
agreeable than the j
Tofusely, and their
le mestizo suffered i
ned at these symp- j
cents. Humboldt,
Pichincha, and re-
)yhis guide. The
nite still, and they
tt dome ofChimbo- I
pc of soon standing j
anew. The ledge I
A more security for
feet deep and sixty
tly saw beyond the
(Ction, but the gulf
nountable obstacle,
[afternoon, and they
was no lower than
thousand two hun-
) Humboldt's calcu-
the highest point to
rides of the mount-
then, when Boussin-
led an elevation of

DESCENT OF CHIMBORAZO.

about nineteen thousand mx hundred feet on the side of Cliimborazo, by
taking anotlier path than that which Uumboldt had chosen.

'■/*4^

4^'

' CHIUBOBAZO.

As the weather became more and more thick and unfavorable, they
commenced returning by means of the same narrow ridge which had
enabled them to ascend. They only halted long enough to collect sjwci-
mcns of the rock, foreseeing that they would afterward in Europe fre-
qently be asked for " a small piece of Chunborazo." A violent storm of
hail overtook them, but fortunately changed into snow as they descended
into a lower atmosphere. The storm became so dense that before they
reached the si)ot where their mules had been left, the rocks were covered
to the depth of several inches. The Indiiui guides were in great anxiety
on their accoimt, but before dark they reached the Indian village of Calpi,
and were hospitably entertained by the priest. For several days after-
ward Chimborazo stood clear against the sky, unobscured by a sjjeck of
vapor, but, the chasm wliich barred their path seemed impassable, and no
second attempt was made.

During his residence in Quito, Iliunboldt received intelligence that the
expedition under Captain Baudin had sailed to New Zealand, intending
to pass homeward around the Cape of Good Hope, and would, therefore,
not touch Chili or Peru. His plan of visiting the Philippine Islands and
India w.as frustrated by this news, but he immediately formed a new
plan of travel. Leaving Quito he followed the chain of the Andes, by

LIFB AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

way of AsHuay, Cuenca and Loxa, to the upper valley of the Amacon.
This journey, which was very fatiguing and hazardous, was made still
more difficult by the scientific instruments and the collections of plants
and minerals which the travelers carried with them. On the road to
Assuay, Humboldt found in the plain of Cafiar, nearly sixteen thousand feet
above the sea, the remams of the ancient road of the Incas, which is sup-
posed to have led from Quito to Cuzco. It is paved with blocks *>{ por-
pliyry, and appeared to be fully equal to any of the ancient Roman high-
ways. In Assuay and CaAar he found many other very interesting relics
of the native Peruvian dynasty, but none which gave such an impression
of its power and civilization as these roads. Near Loxa Humboldt visited
the cinchona woods, which yield the " Peruvian bark," or quinine. " At
that time," he says, "none of this valuable product found its way into
commerce ; all that was obtained was shipped at Payta, a port of the
Pacific, and conveyed round Cape Horn to Cadiz, for the use of the
Spanish court. To procure the small supply of eleven thousand Spanish
pounds, no less than eight hundred or nine hundred cinchona-trees were
cut down every year. The older and thicker stems are becoming more
and more scarce ; but, such is the luxuriance of growth that the younger
trees, which now supply the demand, though measuring only six inches in
diameter, frequently attwn the height of from fifty-three to sixty-four
feet. This beautiful tree, which is adorned with leaves five inches long
and two broad, seems, when growing in the thick woods, as if striving
to rise above its neighbors. The upper branches spread out, and when
agitated by the wind the leaves have a peculiar reddish color and glist-
ening appearance which is distinguishable at a great distance,"

In descending to the valley of the Amazon, in the province of Jaen de
Bracamoros, the travelers were obliged to ford the Rio de Guancabamba
no less than twenty-seven times. The current was so strong that the
heavily-laden mules, eighteen or twenty in number, were in contmual
danger of being carried away ; and Humboldt and Bonpland suffered
the greatest suspense and anxiety until the dangerous road was passed.
In the lower part of the same river, they noticed a novel post for the
conveyance of letters. The official communications from the Pacific
coast to the valley of the Amazon are dispatched by a swimrmng courier,
usually a young Indian, who is at home in the water. The few letters of
which he is the bearer he carefully wraps in a large cotton handkerchief
which he rolls around his head in the form of a turban. On arriving at
those parts of the rivers in which there are falls or rapids, he lands and
goes by a circuitous route through the woods. When wearied by long-
contmued swimming, he rests by throwing one arm on a plank of light
wood. Sometimes he takes a fiiend along to bear him company. Many
of the wild Indian tribes who dwell on the shores of the upper Amazon,
perform their journeys in a similar manner. On one occasion Humboldt
" saw the heads of thirty or forty individuals, men, women and children,
as they floated down the river. On approaching the basin of the Amazon

LDT.

Y of the Amazon.
IB, was made Btill
Uections of plants
On the road to
:tecn thousand feet
ncas, which is sup-
irith blocks « f por-
cient Roman high-
y interesting relics
such an impression
i Humboldt visited
' or quinine. " At
found its way into
lyta, a port of the
for the use of the
a thousand Spanish
jinchona-trees were
ae beconung more
th that the younger
ig only MX inches in
-three to sixty-four
ves five inches long
roods, as if striving
read out, and when ]
dish color and glist-
distance."

province of Jaen de
lio de Guancabamba
so strong that the
, were in continual
Bonpland sufiFered
lus road was passed,
novel post for the
18 from the Pacific
a Bwimnung courier,
The few letters of
lotton handkerchief
lan. On arriving at
rapids, he lands and
en wearied by long-
on a plank of light
tn company. Many
the upper Amazon,
occasion Humboldt
omen and children,
basin of the Amazon

DESCENDANTS OF THE IKCAS.

he was delighted with the beauty of the scenery and the luxuriance of
the vegetation. The orange-trees grew to the height of sixty or seventy
feet.

The travelers descended the River Chamaya on rafts, to its confluence
with the Amazon, at the narrows of Rentama. They found the latter
river to be fourteen hundred feet in breadth, at this point. After seven-
teen days spent in the hot valley of the Amazon, they ascended the Andes
to the table-land of Caxamarca, stopping on the way to visit the famous
silver mines of Gualgoyoc. They took up their temporary abode in tlu!
vicinity of the mines in the little mountain town of Micuipampa, situated
at an elevation of twelve thousand feet above the sea, and where, though
only 6° 43' from the equator, water freezes within doors, at night, during
a great part of the year. This wilderness, almost devoid of vegetation,
is inhabited by three or four thousand persons, who are supplied with
articles of food from the warm valleys, as they themselves can grow
nothing but some kinds of cabbage and salad. Here, as in all the mining
towns of Peru, ennui drives the richer inhabitants, who, however, are
not the best informed class, to the dangerous diversions of cards and
dice. The consequence is, that the wealth thus quickly won is still more
quickly spent. Here one is continually reminded of the anecdote re-
lated of one of the soldiers of Kzarro's army, who complained that he
had lost, in one night's play, " a large piece of the sun," meaning a plate
of gold which he had obtained at the plunder of the temple of Cuzco.

Passing over a sucfeession of paramos, or mountain deserts, where
they were severely bruised by hail-storms, the travelers at last saw be-
neath them the fertile valley of Caxamarca, its extent of one hundred
square miles watered by the windings of a beautiful little river. In the
ancient town, the capital of the unfortunate Inca Atahuallpa, there are
many interesting remains of its fonuer rulers. Some vestiges of the
Inca's palace and fortress are stiU to be seen, although most of the orig-
inal Peruvian buildings have been torn down to furnish material for the
dwellings of their conquerors. In the town jail, which is erected on the
ruins of Atahuallpa's palace, the room is still shown in which he was con-
fined until the day of his execution (August 29, 1533), and the natives
even point out a mark on the wall, as indicating the height which his
golden ransom reached. " Descendants of the Inca," says Humboldt,
*' still dwell in Caxamarca, amid the dreary architectural ruins of de-
parted splendor. These descendants are the family of the Indian Ca-
cique, or, as he is called in the Quichua language, the Curaca Astorpilca.
They live in great poverty, but nevertheless contented, and resigned to
their hard and unmerited fete. Their descent from Atahuallpa, through
the female line, has never been a doubtful question in Caxamarca ; but
traces of beard would seem to indicate some admixture of Spanish blood.
The son of the Cacique Astorpilca, an amiable and interesting youth of
seventeen, conducted us over the ruins of the ancient palace. Though
living in the utmost poverty, his imagination was filled with visions of

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

tho stjbtorrancnn splendor and tho golden treasuri's which, he aHsiircd us,
lay hidden beneath the heapn of rubbish over which we were treading.
He told us that one of his ancestors once blindfoldcil the eyes of his wife,
and then, through many intricate passages cut in tlie rock, led her down
into the subterranean gardens of the Inca. There ti»e lady beheld, skill-
fully imitated in tho purest gold, trees laden >dth leaves and fruit, with
birds perched on their branches. Among other things she saw Atahuall-
pa's golden sedan-chair, which had been so long searched for in vain, and
which is alleged to have been sunk in tho basin at the Baths of Pultt^
marca. The husband commanded his wife not to toucli any of these en-
chanted treasures, reminding her that the period fixed for the restoration
of tho empire of tho Incas had not yet arrived, and that whosoever
should touch any of the treasures would perish the same night.

"The son of Astorpilca assured me that underground, a little to the
right of the spot on which I then stood, there was a large datura-tree,
or guanto, in full flower, exquisitely mado of gold wire and plates of
gold, and that its branches overspread the Inca's chair. The morbid
faith with which the youth asserted his belief in this fabulous story,
made a profound and melancholy impression on me. These iUu^ons are
cherished among the people here, as affording them consolation amid
great privation and earthly suffering. I said to the lad, ' Since you and
your parents so firmly beUevo in the existence of these gardens, do you
not, in your poverty, sometimes feel a wish to dig for the treasures that
lie so near you ?' The young Peruvian's answer was so simple and so
expressive of the quiet resignation peculiar to the aboriginal inhabitants
of the country, that I noted it down in Spanish in my journal. ' Such a
desire,' said he, ' never comes to us. My father says that it would be
sinful. If we had the golden branches, with all their golden fruits, our
white neighbors would hate us and injure us. We have a little field and
good wheat.' Few of my readers will, I trust, bo displeased that I have
recalled here tho words of young Astorpilca and his golden dreams."

After a stay of five or six days in Caxamarca, the travelers started
for Truxillo, on the Pacific coast. Crossing the valley of the Magdalena,
they ascended a steep wall of rock, five thousand feet high, from the
summit of which the guides assured them, they would behold the Pacific
Ocean. But a thick mist overhung the plain, and obscured the distant
coast. They beheld only variously-shaped masses of rock, now rising
like islands above the waving sea of mist, and now vanishing. "The
desire which we feel to behold certain objects," says Humboldt, " is not
excited solely by their grandeur, their beauty, or their importance. In
proportion as the fulfillment of a wish may have appeared improbable,
its realization affords the greater pleasure. The traveler enjoys, in
imticipation, the happy moment when he shall first behold the constella-
tion of the Cross, and the Magellanic clouds circling over the south
pole; when he shall come in sight of the sn»w of the Chimborazo, and
of the column of smoke ascending from the volcano of Quito ; when, for

ward
they

DT. I

ch, he asBurcil us,
,0 wore treading.
.0 eyes of his wife,
)ck, led hor down
lady beheld, skill- ^
res and fruit, with
she saw Atahuall-
ed for hi vain, and
le Baths of Pulta-
•h any of these en-
for the restoration ,
id that whosoever ,
me night.

und, a little to the
large datura-tree,
wire and plates of
hwr. The morbid
his fabulous story,
These illufflons are
1 consolation amid
ad, ' Since you and
;se gardens, do you
r the treasures that
as so simple and so
loriginal inhabitants
ly journal. * Such a
8 that it would be
,r golden fruits, our
ave a little field and
ispleased that I have
golden dreams."
the travelers started
>y of the Magdalena,
feet high, from the
Id behold the Pacific
obscured the distant
of rock, now riang
,w vanishing. "The
8 Humboldt, "is not
;heir importance. In
ippeared improbable,
J traveler enjoys, in
behold the constella-
•cluig over the south
the Chimborazo, and
) of Quito ; when, for

FIRST SIGHT OF THE PAOIFIO.

the first time, he shall gaze on a grove of tree-ferns, or on the wide ex-
panse of the Pacific Ocean. The days on which such wishes are fulfilled
mark epochs in life, and create iudeliblo imjtressious; exciting feelings
which require not to be accounted for by any process of reasoning. The
longing wish I felt to behold the Pacific from the lofty ridges of the
Andes, was mingled with recollections of the interest with which, as a
boy, I had dwelt on the narrative of the adventurous expedition of
Vasco Nuiiez do Balboa. Ttiat happy man, whose track Pizarro fol-
lowed, was the first to behold, from tliu heights of Quarequa, on the
isthmus of Panama, the eastern part of the great " South Sea." The
reedy shores of the Caspian, viewed from the pouit whence I first be-
held them, viz., from the Delta formed by the mouths of the Volga,
cannot certainly be called picturesque, yet the delight I folt on first
beholding them, was enlianced by the recollection that, ui my very
earliest childhood, I had been taught to observe, on the map, the form
of the Asiatic inland sea. The impressions aroused within us in early
childhood, or excited by the accidental circumstances of life frequently,
in after years, take a graver direction, and become stimulants to scien-
tific labors and great enterprises.

" After passing over many undulations of ground, on the rugged
mount.'xin ridges, we at length reached the highest point of the Alto de
Guangamarca. The sky, which had so long been obscured, now sud-
denly brightened. A 6harp south-west breeze dispersed the vail of mist;
and the dark blue canopy of heaven was seen between the narrow lines
of the liighcst feathery clouds. The whole western declivity of the
Cordilleras, covered with huge blocks of quartz thirteen or fifteen feet
long ; and the plains of Chala and Molinos, as far as the sea coast near
Truxillo, lay extended before our eyes, with a wonderful effect of ap-
parent proximity. We now, for the first time, commanded a view of
the Pacific. We saw it distinctly ; reflecting along the lino of the coast
an immense mass of light, and rising in immeasurable expanse until
bounded by the clearly defined horizon. The delight which my com-
panions, Bonpland and Carlos Montufar, sliared with me in viewing this
prospect, caused us to forget to open the barometer on the Alto de
Guangamarca. According to a calculation which we made at a place
somewhat lower down, the point at which we first gained a view of
the ocean must have been at no greater an elevation than between
nine thousand three hundred and eighty and nine thousand six hun-
dred feet."

VISIT TO MEXICO, AND RETURN TO EUROPE.

After reaching Truxillo, on the coast, the travelers proceeded south-
ward over the barren and sandy tracts bordering the sea, to Lima, where
they remained for some time, in order to observe the transit of Mercury.

mUmmm

I.IPK AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

Humboldt was oapccially fortunate in having n dear day for thin pur-
poiic, at n timo when fof^ arc prevalent in Lima. At tho beginning of
January, 1803, they took paHsage for Acapulco in the Spanish frigate
Atalantn. On arriving at Guayaquil, they discovered that tho volcano
of Cotopaxi had suddenly burst into violent eruption, its explosions,
resembling discharges of artillery, being distinctly heard at the former
place, which was at least a hundred and fifty miles distant. The eruption
was first announced to tho inhabitants of Quito by tho sudden disa])-
pearanco of the snow from the crater of Cotopaxi, owing to the inoreasu
of internal heat. They immediately made preparations to revisit thu
volcano, but had not proceeded far before they were recalled by tho
news that the frigate was obliged to sot sail immediately. After a
voyage of thirty days, they arrived safely at Acapulco, where they ro-
mauied for some weeks before commencing their journey to the capital.
Wo have very few details of Humboldt's personal experiences and ad-
ventures in Mexico. His work on " New Spain" consists of an account
of the political condition of the country, its statistics, its physical geogra-
phy, its natural history and geology. At the time of its publication it
was by far the most complete and accurate description of Mexico which
had ever appeared, and in some respects has not been superseded by
later works. On reachbg Acapulco, Humboldt had intended to remain
but a few months in Mexico, and then return to Europe, because bis
instruments appeared to have suffered, and he fowid it impossible to
correct them. But he was so much pleased with the climate and scenery,
and so fascinated by the new fields of investigation opened to him, that
it was a year before he was willing to depart.

Toward the close of winter, the travelers left Acapulco, and proceed-
ed, by way of Chilpanzingo and Cuemavaca to the capital, where they
occupied themselves for some time in studying the interesting antiquities
of the Aztecs. Humboldt was one of the first schoUirs who called atten-
tion to these remarkable relics, and a great portion of his " Vuea dea Cor-
dilUrea^^ is taken up with dissertations in regard to them. In Mexico he
succeeded in borrowing astronomical instruments, with which he ascer-
tained the exact longitude of the place, which had been incorrectly given.
He also visited the famous mines of Moran and Real del Monte, examined
the Desagua, an immense artificial drain of the valley of Mexico, the
pynimida of Teotihuacan, and other interesting objects in the vicinity.
In July he proceeded northward, still accompanied by Bonpland, to the
celebrated mining town of Guanajuato, where he devoted two months
to geognostic studies, especially to the detection of ores, and then trav-
eled southward through the valley of the Rio Santiago, to Yalladolid
(now Morelia) the capital of the province of Michoacan. He was greatly
charmed with the little lake of Pascuaro, and the scenery in its vicinity,
which, he declared, would alone repay the traveler for his voyage across
the ocean. His interest in the phenomena of. volcanoes led him to the
plains of Jorullo, near the Pacific Ocean, where, in the year 1759, a Yolca-

with I

ingthe
Blightljj
hundr^
North

DT.

VISIT TO THE UNITED STATES.

day for thin pwr-
th« beginning of

Spanish frigato {
that tho volcano

m, its explosioas,
ird at the former
ant. The eruption
tho sudden disap-
ng to tho inoreasu
9ns to rovittt the
e recalled by tho
ijdiately. After a
CO, where they ro-
ney to the capital,
[perionccs and ad-
sists of an account
ts physical geogra-
f its publication it

1 of Mexico which
een superseded by
intended to remain
uropc, because his
id it impossible to
limato and scenery,
pened to him, that

pulco, and proceed-
japital, where they
.cresting antiquities
rs who called atten-
his " Vues des Cor-
lem. In Mexico he
ith which he ascer-
!n incorrectly given.
el Monte, examined
,lley of Mexico, the
sots in the vicinity.
by Bonpland, to the
evoted two months
ores, and then trav-
ktiago, to Valladolid
an. He was greatly
enery in its vicinity,
for his voyage across
noes led him to the
ieyearl759,avolcar

nic cone, sixteen hundred fcot high, was formed in a single ni^ht, on n spot
which had previously been perfectly level. Tho plain surrounding this
volcano is covered with several thousand diminutive basaltic cones, which
exhale a thick vapor through their vent-holes and communicate an insui»-
portable heat to tho surrounding air. Owing to this cause, tho neighbor-
hood is very unhealthy, but the travelers were not deterred from threading
tho Tartarean labyrinth, and ascending tho volcano, by climbing over tho
jagged surfaces of the streams of lava. They oven descpn<Ied a distance
of two hundred and fifty feet into tho cone, which is constantly burning.
In January, 1804, Humboldt and Bonpland took a final leavo of tho
city of Mexico, and started on a tour among the Cordilleras, along tho
eastern border of the table-land. Tho former ascertained, by trigono-
metrical mciisuroment, the height of the snowy peaks of Popocatapctl
and Iztaccihuatl, and examined tho pyramid of Cholula. He made a
barometrical survey of tho road from Mexico to Vera Cruz, which, in the
district between Poroto and Jalapa — then an almost imiK'nctrablo forest
of oak and fir-trees — was thrice repeated, enabling him to locate tho
route for the fine post-road which has since been constructed. Tho
travelers also ascended tho peak of Cofre do Perote, and measured, by
trigonometry, the height of Orizaba.* Reaching Vera Cruz, they were
fortunate enough to escape the yellow-fever, which was then raging
there, and to obtain a passage for Havana in a Spanish frigate. At tho
latter place they took possession of the important collections which had
been left there three years previously, and after a stay of nearly two
months, took passage for Philadelphia in an American vessel. They had
a violent storm, which lasted seven days, in tho Bahama Channel, but
reached their destination safely after a voyage of thirty-two days. As
Humboldt remained but six or seven weeks in tho United States, devot-
ing his time principally to the study of their political condition, he has
published no account of his visit. Ho traveled to Washington, which
was then a more village, but which, nevertheless, he thought, would
grow into a more imposing city than Mexico. He associated with tho
scientific society of Philadelphia, which was at that time deservedly
celebrated ; he visited New York, and finally, in July, 1804, sailed for
Bordeaux, where he arrived in the foUowing month, having been absent
from Europe more than five years.

PUBLICATION OF HIS WORKS.

This jonmey, planned with so much zeal and courage, prosecnted
with so much perseverance and industry, and carried on to so triumph-

o This mountain was ascended for the first time by a party of American officers dur-
ing the late war. They found, by barometrical measurement, that its height had been
slightly under-estimated by Humboldt, and that it was, in reality, between two and three
hundred fcot higher than Popocatapetl, hitlierto considered the highest mountain on the
North American Continent -, . , '

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

ant a completion, produced a great sensation in the scientific world. In
the words of Professor Klencke, " It was not only unexampled as the
execution of the most magnificent undertaking of a German citizen; it
was not only perfectly disinterested, and a sacrifice made solely to the
interests of science ; people admired not alone the courageous determin-
ation, the persevering force, the industry, the intellectual capacities and
inquiring talent of Humboldt's personality, but the gradually revealed
results of his journey to the equinoctial regions of the new continent
became of such universal importance in all branches of hiunan science
and commerce, in its influence on a new system of science even — nay,
also on the political improvements of the country traversed — that
Humboldt was hailed in Europe as a second Columbus." Wilhelm von
Humboldt was at the time residing in Rome, but his wife was in Paris
with her children. A report had reached Europe that the travelers had
fallen victims to the yellow-fever previous to their departure from Havana,
and this report was very generally believed. The dispatch, which brought
the intelligence of their arrival at Bordeaux to the National Institute of
France, was immediately forwarded by the secretary to Madam von
Humboldt, whose surprise and joy on meeting with her brother-in-law
was equal to his own on seeing her so much sooner than he had anticipated.
On reaching Paris, Humboldt immediately set about arranging his col-
lections, and preparing the materials he had gathered for the publication
of a grand scientific work. He was still assisted by his friend Bonpland,
and by the sympathy and encouragement of all the savans of the capital,
among whom were Cuvier, Gay-Lussac, Arago, and Laplace.

In the spring of 1805 he accompanied his sister-in-law to Rome, and
spent part of the ensuing summer at Albano, with his brother Wilhelm.
Their society was at that time still fxirther enriched by the presence of
Madame de Stael, Schlegel, and Sismondi. An anticipated r ruption of
Vesuvius led him to Naples, in company with Gay.Lussac, and he was
fortunate in being able to witness the grand outbreak of the 12th of Au-
gust. After completing his observations he proceeded to Berlin, and
did not return to Paris until 1807, when he established himself there per-
manently, to superintend the publication of liis workt. But the fruitg
of his journey were so considerable, so varied, and entering into so many
spheres of science, his studies and collections wore so exciting for further
research and comparison, that he was obliged to unite with other schol-
ars, and allow them to complete, in a more especial manner, the various
branches of his undertaking, " The most eminent men of the age," says
Klencke, " considered it an honor to be engaged b& fellow-laborers in
this gigantic work ; they emulated each other in the sterling value of
the contents, and the most accurate adaptation of the material afforded
them. Artistd and artisans strove to make the artistic contributions —
the atlas, the landscapes, the typographical execution — as perfect and
brilliant as possible." The work was originally written in French, and
portions of it have not yet been translated inlo the author's native Ian-

)T.

itific world. In
ixamplcil as the
rman citizen; it
tie solely to the
igcous determin-
il capacities and
radually revealed
s new continent
»f human science
ience even — nay,

traversed — that
1." Wilhelm von
wife was in Paris
the travelers had
tare from Havana,
ch, which brought
tional Institute of
f to Madam von
[ler brother-in-law
lie had anticipated,
arranging his col-
for the publication
s fxiend Bonpland,
)a«3 of the capital,
aplace.

■law to Rome, and
I brother Wilhelm.
)y the presence of
ipated f ruption of
jussac, and he was

of the 12th of Au-
ded to Berlin, and
I himself there per-
cb. But the fruits
Bering into so many
exciting for further
,e with other schol-
nanner, the various
en of the age," says
s fellow-laborers in
e sterling value of
e material afforded
;tlc contributions —
on — as perfect and
iten in French, and

author's native lan-

ADTBNTURES OP BONPLAND.

guage. It is rather a series of detached works, treating of special
branches of science, than a single connected work, and some idea of the
magnitude of the undertaking may be obtained from the fact that at the
end of forty years from the publication of the first portion, it was not
complete. Indeed, it may still be considered as incomi)lete, although
incomparably the grandest work of the kuid which has ever appeared.
In 1844, the cost of a single copy of the folio edition was about $2,000,
and the printing, paper, and copper-plates alone had occasioned an ex-
penditure of $160,000, much of which was contributed by Humboldt from
his own private resources.

In the year 1810 he visited Vienna, where hr's brother Wilhelm was
residing as Prussian embassador. Although but four or five volumes of
his work were published, he had already conceived the idea of making a
second great journey to Central Asia aad Thibet. Tlie Russian minister,
Roman zow, had proposed to him to accompany a mission which was to
proceed through Independent Tartary to Cashgar, on the western fron-
tier of Thibet, and he at once accepted the offer. This plan, which was
to be put in execution in the year 1812, met with an unexpected obstacle
in the war between Russia and France. Although his proposed journey
was frustrated for the time, he did not relinquish the hope of carrying it
out at some future day ; and with this view, after his return to Paris,
occupied himself for .some years with the study of the Persian language,
so that he might, at hio own expense, proceed to India by way of Tehe-
ran and Herat. He gained so accurate a knowledge of the structure of
the Asiatic mountain chains from literary sources that he was able to give
critical judgments on the explorers who had traveled to the Hiroalaya
mountains. The French government had, in the interests of science,
proffered its assistance to the execution of this plan, and even the King
of Prussia, when he was at Aix-la-Chapelle in 1818, granted Humboldt
an annual sum of 12,000 thalers ($8,500) and the expense of preparing
the expedition for the journey to Asia ; but, for some reason or other,
which has not been explained, the plan was never carried out.

In the year 1818, Humboldt and Bonpland, after sharing each other's
fortunes for twenty years, separated forever. The latter, who had been
appointed superintendent of the gardens at Malmaison by Napoleon, be-
came weary of France after the downfall of the empire, and accepted an
appointment as Professor of Natural History at Buenos Ayres. After
his departure from Europe nothing was heard of him for a long time, but
the news carae at last that he had been seized by the orders of Francia,
the Dictator of Paraguay, while visiting an Indian colony on the^kores
of the river Parana. Francia was incensed at Bonpland for his efrm-ts to
establish the tea culture within the Brazilian territories, for the tea-plant
is peculiar to Paraguay, and forms one of the staple productions of the
country. Bonpland was not deprived of his personal liberty, and was
allowed to practice as a physician. When the news of this outrage
reached Humboldt, he was unremitting in his endeavors to enlist the in-

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP HUMBOLDT.

flucncc of the governments of France and Spain in Bonpland's favor ;
but Paraguay was entirely beyond their reach. After a detention of nine
years, Bonpland was released and returned to Buenos Ayres.*

After his visit to England in 1818, and his consultations with the King
of Prussia at Aix-la-Chapelle, in October and November of the same
year, Humboldt returned to Paris, where he remained until 1822, when
he again joined the king at Verona, and accompanied him on his journey
to Venice, Rome, and Naples. They also returned together to Berlin,
where Humboldt spent some months with his brother. Ho did not,
however, take up his permanent residence in Berlin until May, 1827, con-
tenting himself with an annual visit to Paris, to superintend the progress
of liis great work. In the autumn of the same year, at the suggestion of
his brother, Schlegel, and in fact, of all the scholars and naturalists of
Berlin, he consented to give a course of public lectures on physical cos-
mography. The character of these lectures and the sensation they pro-
duced, is thus described by Professor Klencke : — " As he had before done
in Paris, in the French language, Humboldt now, in his native tongue,
gave the rich fruits of his researches to the public, in a course of lectures
delivered before a select but numerous assemblage. He enchanted his
hearers by the peculiar force of his intellectual clearness, by his eloquence,
the genuineness and warmth of his feelings, and the inexhaustible novelty
of his subject. He stood before them as a convincing, inspiring teacher,
who, like an artist, displayed the wonderful pictures of a newly-explored
world to their view. This course of sixty-one lectures, commenced on
the 3d of November, and concluded on the 26th of April, 1828, was, as
it were, the first sketch of the *' Kosmos," published subsequently as the
compact result of his life and studies. When some of the first lectures
had been delivered, the press of people from all ranks was so great that
Humboldt was literally forced to give a repetition of the first course,
adapted for a more general public, nearly cotemporary with the others,
in the large hall of the Musical Academy. These popular lectures were
eagerly visited by the highest and most learned persons in the capital.
The king, the royal family, the court, tho highest lords and ladies, at-
tended regularly and listened with the people, who showed their pride
in the celebrated man by their enthusiastic admiration."

JOURNEY THROUGH RUSSIA. SIBERIA, AND TARTART.

Humboldt was urged to publish these lectures, and prepared to com-
ply, but his plans were unexpectedly changed. The illness and death of
his sister-in-law drew him away from his studies for a time, but the sub-

* Bonpland appears to have volontarilj returned to Paraguay soon afterward, and
to have devoted hiraaelf to establishing plantations. He never relinquished the idea of
returning to Europe, but lingered year after jrear, and flnalljr died there, quite recentl/,
at a very advanced age.

were

■ilpwM***''^'''-^

ipland*B favor;
tentionof nine

res* I

with the King j
r of the same
itil 1822, when
on his journey
ther to Berlin,
Ho did not,
May, 1827, con-
tid the progress
le suggestion of
i naturalists of
on physical cos-
sation they pro-
had before done

native tongue,
ourse of lectures
e enchanted his
ay his eloquence,
laustible novelty
aspiring teacher,
t newly-explored
, commenced on
ril, 1828, was, as
(sequently as the
;he first lectures
vas so great that
the first course,
with the others,

ar lectures were
ns in the capital,
ds and ladies, at-
)wed their pride

D TARTART.

prepared to com-
less and death of
irae, but the sub-
soon afterward, and
uquished the idea of
there, quite recently,

VISIT TO THE URAL MOUNTAINS.

ject which soon demanded all of his attention was the renewal of the
former plan of a grand scientific exploration of Central Asia. Tlie
original plan, which was warmly encouraged by the governments of
France and Prustiia, had been entirely given up, after Humboldt had
cherished it for years. But in December, 1827, the Emperor Nicholas
invited him to make an extended exploration of the mining districts of
the Ural mountains, the territories bordering on China and Tartary, and
the shores of the Caspian Sea, at the expense of the Russian govern-
ment. Humboldt accepted the offer with joy, but asked leave to post-
pone the preparation for the journey until he Iiad com])leted the public
lectures on which he was at that time engaged. The emperor granted
bis request, and left him at liberty to choose the localities he was to ex-
plore, and to prosecute the journey in such a manner as would best
advance the interests of science, always considering the advantages
which the Russian government might draw from a development of the
mining capabilities of the country, as merely of secondary importance.

In the year 1828, the preparations for the journey were made, plans
were laid, and arrangements entered into with other naturalists, whom
he was allowed to select as his companions. He communicated with
Gustav Rose and 6. Ehrenberg, two naturalists living in Berlin, who
consented to accompany him on his projected expedition. Each of the
three travelers bad a special branch of activity allotted to him. Hum-
boldt undertook the observations on magnetism, the results of geograph-
ical astronomy, and the general preparation of the geognostic and
physical plan of north-western Asia. 6. Rose was to make the chemical
analyses of minerals, and keep the traveling diary, while the botanical
and zoological labors fell to Ehrenberg's share.

On the 12th of April, 1829, the three travelers left Berlin for St.
Petersburg, where they arrived on the 1st of May. The Russian Min-
ister of Finance, Count Canorin, had made ample arrangements for their
comfort and security, and for facilitating their expedition. Carriages
were prepared, a courier was selected, horses were engaged to be held
in readiness at the stations along the route, houses were everywhere to
be placed at their disposal, and military escorts provided, where prox-
imity to the frontiers made their protection necessary. A Russian
mining officer, Menschenin, afterward Inspector of Mines, was appointed
as Humboldt's constant companion, to give him every information in
regard to ways and localities, and to levy the necessary assistance from
the Russian authorities.

Thus prepared, and furnished with all the comforts of Russian hos-
pitality, they left St. Petersburg on the 20th of May, and proceeded
rapidly over the broad highway to Moscow. After a few days spent
here in making barometrical observations, and in examining the geolog-
ical productions of the country, they continued their journey toward
the Ural, advancing more slowly over the indifferent roads of the marshy
lands that occupy a portion of that level region. They arrived at Nish-

LIFE AND TBAYELS OF HUMBOLDT.

ni (Lower) Novgorod, on the Volga, by the last of May. Here they
met with Count Poller, the proprietor of some mining estates, in the
Ural, who was traveling thither Avith a few scientific gentlemen, and
who accordingly accompanied them into that region. They embarked
on the Volga and reached Kasan on the 4th of June. Kasan was for
three centuries the seat of an independent Tartar Khanate which was
overturned in 1552. The suburbs of the town were still inhabited by
Tartars, whose MedachexU or temples were visited by the travelers. On
entering the sacred edifices the guides took off their slippers, although
they permitted the visitors to wear their boots. From Kasan they
made an excursion down the Volga to the interesting ruins of Bulgar,
the capital of the ancient Bulgaria, which flourished from the seventh to
the thirteenth century. As they approached the modern village, the
whole population came forth to meet them in groups of men, women,
and children, and the oldest inhabitants, who led the groups, offered
bread and salt to Humboldt, in token of reverence, according to the
liussian custom. Tlie walls of a few edifices, two towers, and several
tombstones bearing monumental inscriptions in Turkish, Arabic, and
Armenian, which mostly dated from the year 623 of the Hcdjira, or,
A. D. 1226, were the principal remains which the travelers found of the
ancient capital. Many silver and copper coins, copper rings, and trink-
ets, were still found among the rubbish. The tombs of Tartar saints
were still objects of pilgrimages for the faithful. A Tartar Mollah was
performing his devotions among the ruins, by repeating a form of prayer
and frequently bowing his body, without'allowing the presence of the
travelers to disturb him. As the ruins were some distance apart, he
availed himself of a seat in their carriage, and rode with them to all the
ruins, always arranging it so that he had performed his devotional exer-
cises before they were through with their examinations. At Kasan they
witnessed a rural festival of the Tartars, called the Saban, which is cele-
brated annually after seed-time. The sports consisted in wrestling, run-
ning, and horse-racing.

Leaving Kasan on the 9th, they passed tbrongh a district inhabited
by the Wotjaks, a branch of the Finnish femily, who had embraced the
Christian religion, aud adopted the Russian knguagc, Mhile they still
retained their primitive costumes. The women wore high caps, made
of birch-bark covered with blue cloth, and hung with silver coins and
red fringes. They spent the 12tli at Wercbne (Upper) Mulinsk, on
Count Poller's estate, where he entertained tliem hospitably, after which
he accompanied them on their expedition beyond Jekatharinenburg.
When they came to the valleys in the outskirts of the Ural, on the 14th
of June, they were delighted with the sudden appearance of spring.
Three weeks before, they had left the Neva in ice, and now all the
"plants were in full bloom, covering the ground with a profusion of rare
and beautiful flowers. On the 16th, they anived at Jekatharinenburg,
mtuated among the mountains on the Asiatic Side of the Ural ridge, in

WISSOKAJA OORA.

ly. Here they
; estatet. in the
gentlemen, and
They embarked
Kasan was for
nate which was
till inhabited by
le travelers. On
lippers, although
om Kasan they
ruins of Bulgar,
n the seventh to
.dern village, the
, of men, women,
! groups, offered
according to the
ivers, and several
ish, Arabic, and
: the Hedjira, or,
lers found of the

• rmgs, and truik-
s of Tartar saints
Tartar Mollah was
g a form of prayer
lie presence of the
distance apart, he
th them to all the
s devotional exer-
8. At Kasan they
ban, which is cele-

in wrestling, run-

li district inhabited
had embraced the
ge, while they still
e high caps, made
th silver coins and
pper) Mulinsk, on
pitably, after which

Jekatharinenburg.
B Ural, on the 14th
tearance of spring.
e, and now all the
a profusion of rare

Jekatharinenburg,

• the Ural ridge, in

one of the richest mineral regions of the continent. They visited Scha-
browski, Bercsowsk, and other gold mines in the vicinity, the rich copper
mines of Gumeschewskoi, and then extended their excursions northward
as far as Nishni Tagilsk, into a district abounding in gold, platina, cop-
per, iron, and precious stones. Nishni Tagilsk, with a surrounding
tract of eight thousand square versts, is a possession of the Demidoff
family, and is scarcely surpassed by any place in the world in the rich-
ness and variety of mineral productions in its immediate vicinity. Near
the town is the celebrated mountain of magnetic iron, called Wissokaja
Gora, whose excellent ores supply numerous furnaces, while copper of a
superior quality is found in large quantities, and rich fields of gold and
platina abound, the latter far surpassing in richness all others in the
Ural mountains. Near the imperial iron works of Kuschwhisk, they
visited another remarkable mountain of magnetic iron, called Gura Bta-
godat (the Blesged Mountain), which was discovered to the early Rus-
sian settlers by a Wofftil named Tschiwipkin. For this act he was
burned alive upon the mountain by his countrymen, the primitive inhab-
itants. A monument stands on the summit, erected to his memory by
the Russians.

Humboldt's attention had already been called to the remarkable
analogy in the grouping of minerals in various parts of the world, and
now he was struck with the resemblance of this region to the gold and
platina districts of Brazil, which also produce diamonds. This idea of
the association of minerals awakened in him the strongest hope of dis-
covering diamonds in the Ural mountains, and On every occasion of
gold and platina washing, the sand was microscopically examined in this
hope. In this manner they found many minerals heretofore unknown
in the Ural mountains, among them crystals which in Brazil are found
with diamonds, although they were not successful in the main object of
their search. Humboldt's theory was confirmed, however, during his
sojourn in this region, for diamonds were found by Count Poller, in
the vicinity of Bittersk, a tew days afler he parted from him, and in
a little while others wore discovered in various places in the northern
Ural.

On the Ist of July they left Kuschwinsk, and proceeded by the iron
works of Nishni Turinsk to the copper mines of Bogoslowsk. Here the
mountains were higher, and the side-branches, extitnding at right angles
from the main ridge, spread over a wider extent of territory. The forests
Were dense, and the indifTorent roads, which render this region compara-
tively inaccessible, greatly luudered them in their investigations. The
country was rich in plants and flowers, as well as in minerals, and the
luxuriant growth of juicy vegetation produced myriads of stinging gnats
and mosquitoes, which greatly annoyed the travelers. The inhabitants
protect themselves from tlicse pests by a net sprinkled with birch-bark
tea, or by the smoke of decayed wood, or fungi, which they carry ignited
in small earthen vessels upon their backs.

•aMWHMrMMMaiMnMMHM

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUUBOLDT.

The Bceneiy around Bogoslowsk was magnificent. Over the broad
plnm, lying eastward, the view was almost unbounded ; while oii the west
and north the mountains rose in majestic grandeur. The principal range
was forty or fifty miles distant, and its snow-covered peaks stood out in
bold relief above the dork forests of pine and fir which covered the inter-
vening heights. They visited the mines of copper, iron, and gold in this
district, and returned by Mursinsk, rich in precious stones, to Jekathar-
inenberg, where they arrived on the 11th, after an absence of sixteen
days. In a week they had prepared and arranged the mass of materials
they had collected, when they set out for Tobolsk, and reached that city
on the 2l8t.

Tobolsk had been the eastern limit of the expedition in Humboldt's
original plan ; but the ease and promptness with which they had accom-
plished the journey in the northern Ural, induced him to extend the
journey to the Altai, that he might become acquainted with these im-
portant mountains by personal observation. The plan being approved by
the authorities, they completed their arrangements, and in two days
were again upon the road. The intervening region consists mostly of
steppes, which, although traversed by a few roads, upon which villages
arc here and there establbhed at the stations, are generally barren and
uncultivated. They ascended the Irstysch to Tatmytakaja, then crossed
over in a south-easterly direction to the waters of the Om, and contin-
ued their route eastwardly, near its banks, across the fearful steppe of
Barabinski. This great steppe, which embraces the whole space between
the rivers Irstysch and Obi, is not dry and arid, as the steppes are usually
supposed to be, but well supplied with lakes, marshes, and flowing
streams. Many of the lakes conttun salt water, and the earth itself is
in some places impregnated with salt. Here and there a spot of rich
vegetation appears, and occasionally a few poplars or birch-trees relieve
the monotonous level. Over the marshy ground the road was frequently
bridged in long courses, but as these improvements were in a bad con-
dition, the traveling upon them was very tedious. Another annoyance
was even less endurable than this ; they, were attacked by swarms of
titinging gnats and flies, which preyed upon them unceasingly. This
vexmg pest, with the jolting of the carriage, occasioned a serious loss to
Humboldt in the breaking of a large barometer, though its place was
partially supplied by a lighter one. At Kainsk, in the middle of the
steppe, they received the alarming intelligence that the Siberian pesti-
lence was raging in all the villages before them on the way to Tomsk.
This terrible disease prevails at first among the cattle, and from them
extends to human beings, especially upon the plains, never among the
mountauis. The travelers held a consultation, and as it was impractica-
j)le to reach the Altai region by any other route, if they should retrace
their steps, at least within the limits of their plan, they resolved, at all
hazards, to continue their journey, with the precaution — as the disease was
represented to be contagious — ^to avoid all contact with the peasants

ores,

iron 1

Augusl

Irtysch

opporti

sacks,

place,

anowsk

the Alt

of thes(

the St(

closing

THE FRONTIERS OF CHINA.

vur the broad
lie on the west
priucipal range
(8 stood out in
k-ercd the mter-
ind gold in this
^8, to Jekathar-
ence of sixteen
ass of materials
iached that city

1 in Humboldt's
;hey had accom-
to extend the
with these im-
ing approved by
id in two days
insists mostly of
n which villages
rally barren and
aja, then crossed
Om, and contin-
tearful steppe of
►le space between
teppes are usually
les, and flowing
he earth itself is
re a spot of rich
)irch-trees relieve
ad was frequently
rere in a bad con-
nother annoyance
red by swarms of
mceawngly. This
d a serious loss to
agh its place was
he middle of the
the Siberian pesti-
,he way to Tomsk,
le, and from them
never among the
it was impractica-
hey should retrace
ley resolved, at all
-as the disease was
with the peasants

among whom it prevailed. There were many deaths in the villages
through which they passed ; in Karganskaja six persons had died on the
day before their arrival, and in the same village five hundred horses had
olready perished, so that the expedition had difficulty in procuring the
number requisite for their conveyance. In every village a small hospital
was established ; and on the outskirts of each, fires of dry turf and
materials affording abimdance of smoke, were kindled to purify the
atmosphere. As they approached the Obi, and left the steppe behind
them, all traces of the disease disappeared. Crossbg the Obi at Bergsk,
they proceeded in a southerly direction, and reached Barnaul on the
morning of August 2d, having traveled one thousand miles since leaving
Tobolsk.

The city of Barnaul, on the Obi, although on the borders of the
steppe, is the central point of the Altaian mining interests, being the seat
of the controlling authorities of the whole region, and the location of the
principal smelting furnaces. The most important product of the Altm
is silver, of which the yield is greater than that of any other part of the
continent. For more than a half century before Humboldt's visit, the
average annual product was nearly seventy thousand marks, or forty
thousand pounds. In the same time the mines yielded four hundred and
eighty thousand pounds of copper, and about eight hundred thousand
pounds of lead annually. Although the quantity of silver produced by
the Altai is so great, the ore from which it is obtuned is very poor,
yielding an average of only four per cent., while the average product of
the Mexican ores ranges from eighteen to twenty-five per cent.

Leaving Barnaul on the 4th, Humboldt and his companions proceed-
ed to carry out the plan he had projected of an extensive tour through
the mining regions. Going southward they crossed the steppe of Pla-
towskaja to the upper districts of the Obi, where they visited the rich
silver mines of Smejewskaja Gora, of Riddersk and its vicinity, and
the extensive porphyry works of Kolyvansk. The Smejewskaja Gora,
or Serpent Mountain — so called from the great number of serpents
foand upon it, when it was first discovered — consists almost entirely of
ores, of which the most important is silver. Copper, lead, zinc, and
iron are also produced in considerable quantities. On the 13th of
August, they had advanced as fiir as Ustkamenogorsk, a fortress on the
Irtysch, toward the frontiers of Chinese Mongolia. Here they had an
opportunity of witnessing the admirable military exercises of the Cos-
sacks, who were stationed at this post. Leaving their baggage at this
place, they continued their tour to the gold and silver mines of Syr-
anowsk, on the south-western side of the Cholsun and Katunja ranges of
the Altai mountains. Beyond Syranowsk the travelers had distant views
of these mountains. Thirty miles distant rose the numerous peaks of
the Stolbrowucha, already covered with snow, and further eastward,
closing the long vista of the valley of Beresowska, stood the untrodden
summit of Bjeluoha, the loftiest peak of the Altai. The view of these

..i

LIFB AND TRAYBLS OF HUMBOLDT.

snow-covered mountains awakened in Humboldt and his companions a
desire to penetrate further into that interestiiig region, but the lateness
of tlio season and the plans already laid, warned them to desist.

They were now so near the boundary of China, that Humboldt wished
to pass over to Bat), or Khonimailakhii, the nearest Chinese-Mongol-
ian post, situated on the Irtysch, below Lake Saissan. He had made
known his wishes at Buchtarminsk, the upper Russian post on the river,
and a Cossack had been sunt thither to announce his visit. "When they
arrived, they found two tents prepared for them, which they occupied
during their stay. There were two stations at this post, one on the left
bank of the river, occupied by Mongolian troops, the other on the right,
by Chinese ; both commanded by Chinese officers. They lived in the
small round tents, or Jurten, of the Khirgises, which were irregularly
disposed. Humboldt first visited the commander of the Chinese, who
camo out before his tent to meet them, followed by two attendants. He
was a young man, tall and thin, wore a blue silk coat which reached to
the ankles, and carried several peacock feathers in his cap, denoting hia
rank. After a ceremonious introduction, questions and answers were
exchanged through the interpreters, by which they learned that he was
directly from Pekin, that he had made the journey in four months on
horseback, and that the commanders were changed every three years.
After a similar visit tc the commanding officer of the Mongolians, Avho
was less communicative, they visited the temple, a small, square, wooden
building, containing an altar opposite the door, and the picture of an
idol of the Buddhistic worship hanging upon the wall above the altar.
A wall stood between the door and the river, near which was another
altar with burning coals upon it. On returning to their tents they re-
ceived a visit from the first commander and his attendants, who took
out their pipes and began to smoke, after inviting their hosts to do like-
wise. Gifts were ceremoniously exchanged, when Humboldt received
some Chinese books. The officer expressed great delight when Hum-
boldt told him he had a brother who was interested in the Chinese lan-
guage, to whom ho would take them. These books, which are in the
royal library at Berlin, contain a historical romance in four volumes,
called Sankuetahi, the subject of which is the history of the three king-
doms, into which China was divided after the Han dynasty, and which
was the subject of the literarj- ''jpute between Klaproth and Professor
Neumann of Munich. The troops consisted of eighty men. They wore
long coats of different colors, and they were very dirty, and very lean.
They greatly admired the corpulency of one of Humboldt's company.
A few camels were seen about the tents, a flock of goats, and some sheep
with enormous tails.

The return to Ustkamenogorsk was highly interesting to Humboldt
for its geological value, and was suggestive of new researches ; for as he
was sailing down the Irtysch he saw on the. secluded shores of these
waters, over a surface of more than sixteen thousand feet, immense rocks

sage to

neii

the

)T.

SALT WORKS OF ILEZK.

La companions a
but tho lateucsa
desist.

[umboldt wished
Chinese-Mongol-
Ile had made
o8t on tho river,
sit. "When they
„h they occupied
t, one on tho left
her on the right,
rhey lived in the
were irregularly
the Chinese, who

attendants. He
which reached to
cap, denoting hia

nd answers were
jmed that he was
in four months on
every three years.
Mongolians, who
ill, square, wooden

1 the picture of an
1 above the altar,
which was another
their tents they re-
lendants, who took
sir hosts to do like-
Humboldt received
ielight when Hum-
in the Chmese lan-

which are in the
36 in four volumes,
y of the three king-
dynasty, and which
jroth and Professor
y^men. They wore
lirty, and very lean,
umboldt's company,
jats, and some sheep

isting to Humboldt

esearches; for as he

led shores of these

feet, immense rocks

of granite lying horizontally and in layers, and resting on clay slate,
whoso layers were partly perpendicular, partly at an angle of eighty-five
degrees. This was a highly important &ot for Humboldt in bis theory
of the formation of granite.

Their next route was down the Irtysch and westward across the
steppe of Ischim, to the southern portion of the Ural chain, passing along
the frontiers of the Middle Horde of Khirgises, a nomadio tribo inhabit-
ing the steppes between the Irtysch and tho Ural river. A luio of
military posts, consisting of small villages more or less fortified, at inter-
vals of twenty or thirty versts, and garrisoned by Cossacks, is establish-
ed along the whole boundary, from the Chinese frontier to the Caspian
Sea. Humboldt and his companions left Ustkamcnogorsk under a mili-
tary escort of Cossacks, which was relieved from post to post, and pass-
ing through SemipolatLnsk, a place of considerable importance in the
caravan trade with middle Asia, they followed the course of tho Irtysch
as far as Omsk, where they arrived on the 25th. After remaining here
two days, in which they visited the Cossack, military, and Asiatio
schools, and made their usual observations, they left the river and cross-
ed the steppe by way of Petropaulowsk and the trading town of Troitsk,
and came to Miask on the 3d of September.

Miask is a mining city of considerable importance, situated in the
most productive mineral district of tho southern Ural range. Here they
spent two weeks, making frequent excursions to the gold washings and
the mines of the vicinity, to the Ilmen mountains, and to the mines
around Slatoust. Then proceeding southward to the head waters of the
Uri, they climbed the Auschkul mountain, and examined several mines
in its neighborhood. On the way thither, they passed some deserted
villages of the Bashkirs, the owners spending the sununer in a nomadio
life, and returning to their houses for the winter only. At Orsk, on the
Uial at the junction of the Or, Humboldt stopped to examine the ex>
tensive quarries of green jasper near that place. On continuing his jour-
ney he was furnished with a guard of Cossacks as a defense against the
Khirgises, for that portion of the line, between Orsk and Orenburg, was
considered the most dtngerous on the whole frontier. On the 2l8t they
came to Orenburg, the capital of the district, the main fortress on the
Ime, and the center of a flourishing caravan trade to various places in
middle Asia. What most interested Humboldt in the vicinity of Oren-
burg, was the great salt works of Ilezk, on the steppe between the Ural
and the Ilek, forty-five miles south of the city. In the absence of the
Governor-General, the travelers were entertained by Major-General
Gens, whose knowledge of the geography and politcal condition of mid-
dle Asia, greatly interested Humboldt. He had a fund of information
obtained from caravans and ft'om personal observation. In order to
gratify Humboldt's desire to see more of the Khirgises, he sent a mes-
sage to the nearest sultan, requesting him to come with his subjects into
the neighborhood, and exhibit their skill in some of their accustomed

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF HUMBOLDT.

games and sports. Accordingly a large number appeared, and raised
their tents a fow versts from the city, after which the sultan camo w per-
son to visit Humboldt and General Gens.

As they drove to the encampment, they had occasion to admire the
skill of the Khirgises, many of whom rode around tho carriage at full
gallop, resting with their hands upon tho horses' backs and their feet in
the air. Having arrived at the tents they were first introduced to the
sultan's wives, who were seated in a row in his tent, and then tho sports
began. The first was horse-racing. Tho participants rode off to a place
seven versts distadl, whence they were to ride back to the tents as their
goal. Meanwhile other games wore introduced. Two Khirgises en-
tered a circle, formed by the spectators, to wrestle. Casting off their
outer garments, each threw his leathern girdle over the other, and
thus they struggled to throw each other to the ground. The victor
remained in the ring until thrown by a new antagonist. One distin-
guished himself by throwing six in succession, but was vanquished by
the seventh. Then a large kettle was brought out, half filled with boiled
groats. Into this General Gens threw a silver ruble, which the Khirgises
attempted to take out with their teeth. When several rubles had been
successively picked out in this maimer, and a still greater number of
Khirgises had ludicrously besmeared their heads and shoulders in vain,
the sport was changed, and now the musicians appeared. The firbu were
men, who begun to sing in long-drawn tones, frightfully distorting their
faces the while. There was no trace of melody in their song, although
they were themselves so enraptured with it that it was almost impossible
to persuade them to stop. When they had finished, a female, completely
vailed, entered the circle, and sang in the same manner as the men.
Then two others entered and sang a duet, standing with their iaces close
together, and raising their vails so that they could see each other, and
also allow the spectators to obtain a side view, which they did not seem
to take amiss. They were inteiTupted by the intelligence that the
horsemen were coming, whereupon the spectators gave way, aided by
the whips of the overseers. A boy won' tho prize, which was a gold em-
broidered cloak, the others receiving smaller presents. Foot-racmg waa
the next performance. From the starting-point to the tent was about
a raile, which the winner ran through in the short space of three minutes.
Here the first prize was a silver ruble, the rest were pieces of cotton
cloth and smaller presents. When the sports were ended the travelers
returned to the city, and prepared for their departure on the morrow.

On leaving Orenburg, they resolved to pass around to the northward
of the great sandy steppe of Rynpeski, which lies between the Ural and
the Volga, and is inhabited by wandering tribes of Cossacks, IChirgises
^ of the Inner Horde, and Calmucks; but as Humboldt wished to see
Uralsk, the chief city of the Uralian Cossacks, they first descended the
Ural to that place. They arrived on tho 27th, and remained a day to
Bee the autumnal fishing, and other industrial operations of the people.

used
gible
cloth,
for the
but wa
ingof
these
temple
and, hj
gilded
upon
cheese
door ar
chief ;
remote,
the str
frightfu
lama ar
whom ;
Hur
arrived

V>!^0^&ftu^(£>^^ii^^«^^^.

ired, and ndaed
tan camo in per-

\ to admire the
carriage at full
and their feet in
itroduced to the
a then the sports
ode off to a place
the tents as their
wo Khirgises en-
Casting off their
sr the other, and
,und. The victor ,
mist. One distin-
ras vanquished by
if filled with boiled
hich the Khirgises
al rubles had been
;reater number of
[ shoulders in viun,
ed. The firbu were
lly distorting their
aeir song, although
A almost impossible
female, completely
tanner as the men.
ith their faces close
jee each other, and
I they did not seem
telligence that the
gave way, Mded by
lich was a gold em-
8. Foot-racing was
the tent was about
ice of three minutes,
jre pieces of cotton
ended the travelers
re on the morrow,
nd to the northward
Btween the Ural and
Cossacks, lairgises
boldt wished to see
f first descended the
1 remained a day to
itions of the people.

ARRIVAL AT ASTRACHAK.

The prosperity of the Cossacks of the Ural (or Jaik), is mainly owing
to the productive fisheries of the Ural river, which, next to military
occupations, furnish their chief employment ; pa-sturage and agriculture
being but secondary. From Uralsk the travelers turned north-east-
wardly across the mountain steppe of Obschtschci Syrt, to Busuluk,
thence westwardly to the Volga at Samara. In this region Humboldt
found numerous sulphur springs, and waters impregnated with asphaltcs
and with salt ; while in many places sulphur is obtained from the earth
in large quantities. As they descended the Volga, they passed through
a number of German colonies on the banics of the river, above and boluw
Saratoff. From Dubowka they made an excursion to the large salt-lake
of Elton — called Alton Nor, the Golden Lake, by the Cossacks — situated
in the steppe, seventy miles eastward of the Volga, and celebrated for
its extensive manufactories of salt. While examining the waters of the
lake, they found large quantities of insects of various kinds, and even
birds, which, having fallen into the lake, were well preserved, and from
these Ehrenberg made a good collection of the fauna of the region.

Further down the river, at Sarepta, they found a colony of Moravian
brethren, established in 1765, who carried on a considerable trafiic, in
their own manufactures, with the Cossacks. In the lower districts of the
Volga they frequently passed the kibitkaa of the Calmucks, and met the
people with their lierds of horses, sheep and camels. They also passed
one of the temples, in the entrance of which a number of long sticks
stood upright with written prayers fastened upon them. The prayers of
the Calmucks are all written in the Thibetan language, which is always
used by the priests in their religious rites, although it is quite unintelli-
gible to the people. They are usually written on long strips of cotton
cloth, which are fastened to long sticks th&'v they may bo easily agitated,
for the prayers are not read or repeated by the priests in their worship,
but waved as flags by the wind, as the Calmucks believe that the mov-
ing of the written prayers is just as effectual as repeating them. By
these fluttering prayers and the noisy music that proceeded from the
temple, the travelers knew that the Cossacks were at worship within,
and, having a desire to see them, they entered. Upon the altar stood
gilded figures of their idols, while glaring pictures of idols hung
upon the walls. Several basins containing fruit, water, dried flesh,
cheese and other offerings, were placed before the altar. Between the
door and the altar six priests sat face to face upon the floor, the lama or
chief priest being nearest the altar, the gellongs or inferior priests more
remote. They were playing upon a variety of instruments, producing
the strange noise which was heard without. The music, or rather the
frightful uproar, alternated with a song of like character. At length the
lama arose, the music ceased, and the priests then spoke to the travelers,
whom they had not before heeded.

Humboldt was received with great honor at Astrachan. When he
arrived at the ferry on the afternoon of October 12th, a steamboat, sent

MtpHBIiMlritttriht

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP HUUBOLDT.

by the Governor-General OflsipofT, was waiting for him and hia oompan-
ions, and amid tho firing of cannon they crossed to the city, whore a
large crowd was drawn together by these unusual preparations. They
were conveyed by four-horse carriages to the spacious apartments allotted
them, where, on the morrow, Humboldt was waited upon by the digni-
tarics of tho place and the deputies of all tho various nations represented
in the motley population of Astrocban. They were presented by the
governor-general in the order of rank. First came the burgomaster,
with tho elders of tho mercantile protession, who, according to the Rus-
sian custom, brought the tokens of homage, but instead of common bread
and salt, it w^as a pound-cake, ornamented mth the best fruits of Astra-
chan — with grapes, largo plums, pears and apples — and salt. Next came
the nobles and tho officers of the garrison, and then the deputies of the
Armenians, Persians, Hindoos, Tartars, and others.

The travelers found much to interest them in Astrachan, in its diversi-
fied population, in the bazaars of the various nations and their places of
worship. In one of the temples di fakir sat crouching on the floor with his
chin resting upon his knees, between which the long white beard reached
down to the ground. He had no clothing but a sheepskin thrown loosely
about him, and had been ritting thus for fifteen years.

Humboldt obtained a steamboat and proceeded with his companions
to the mouths of the Volga and the Caspian Sea, in order to analyze its
waters, to make barometrical measurements, and to obtain specimens of
the fish. When they had thus seen the most remarkable objects of As-
trachan, and completed their scientific Libors, they proceeded to visit the
remarkable Calmuck prince, Scred Dschab, whom Humboldt desired to
sec. As he resided near the Volga, fifty miles above the city, they made
all preparations for their journey, and set off from Astrachan on the 21st
of October. The prince sent a large cavalcade and carriages to the land-
ing, supposing that Humboldt traveled in greater state, and received them
with great honor at his residence, where he entertained them hospitably.
He conducted them to his temple where religious services were per-
formed, showed them his horses, hiii orchard and gardens, and the
distilleries where brandy is manu&ctured from mare's milk. At his resi-
dence they also met with Dsohangir, the young Khan of the Inner
Horde of Khirgises. Leaving their Calmuck host they hastened to con-
tinue their homeward journey, for the weather was cold and winter was
fast approaching. On the next day the country was covered with
snow.

Retracing their course along the Volga as &r as Zarizyn, they then
crossed over to the Don, where Humboldt made his last barometrical
observation, having reference to the relative height of the Caspian Sea,
afler which they proceeded by Woronesch, Tula and Moscow, to St. Pe-
tersburgh, where Humboldt's obligations to the government and court
detained him four weeks. The party finally arrived at Berlin on the
28th of December, 1829. Humboldt had been absent on this expedition

-•■'}/:-. .--i «.,.'. ,•i-.■»i-^

.---^'^i;4;;i£Je=»*«~i'=^'-i^*''lSte^^

LDT.

n and hU eompan-
) the city, where »
reparations. They
apartments allotted
upon by the dignt-
nations represented
5 presented by the
3 the burgomaster,
cording to the Rusr
id of common bread
jest fruits of Astra-
id salt. Next came
the deputies of the

'achon, in its diversi-
I and their places of
; on the floor with his
white beard reached
pskin thrown loosely
•s.

with his companions
I order to analyze its
> obttun specimens of
irkable objects of As-
)roceeded to visit the
Humboldt desired to
e the city, they made
Vstrachan on the 21st
carriages to the land-
te, and received them
ined them hospitably.
IIS services were per-
id gardens, and the
e's milk. At his resi-
5 Khan of the Inner
they hastened to con-
s cold and winter was
:y was covered with

as Zarizyn, they then
! his last barometrical
It of the Caspian Sea,
ind Moscow, to St. Pe-
[overnment and court
ved at Berlui on the
sent on this expedition

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I4£|2£ M15

I.I

140

1^
1^

1-25 III 1.4 |||.6

►

>*J

«'

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

•y

33 WEST MAIN STRUT

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0

(716) 872-4503

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICIVIH
Collection de
microfiches.

JB^»

Canadian Institute for Historical MIcrorsproductlons / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

mmmmm"

MISSION TO PARIS.

eight months and a half, during which he had traveled a distance of be-
tween eleven and twelve thousand miles.

This journey, like the American one, was of great importance to the
science of physical geography. Its results were published in three
works, of which each of the travelers undertook to compose one. Hum-
boldt's " Fragments of Asiatic Geology and Climatology" was the iirst
to appear. It treats especially of the mountain ridges and volcanoes of
Central Asia, and serves to establish Humboldt's theory, that the vol-
canic activity of the earth is continually decreasing. Before this journey
there existed many erroneous notions of the geography of the interior
of Asia, the connection of the mountain chains, and the character of the
soil and climate, and Humboldt's work, together with his ^'■Asie Ceti-
trale*^ (first published in Paris in 1843), threw an entirely new light
upon all this region. Another very important result followed this ex-
pedition. In many parts of Siberia Humboldt left carefully compared
thermometers, in the hands of competent and intelligent persons, and
awakened the taste for these measurements and comparative experi-
ments, especially among the Russian mining superintendents of the Ural
mountains. In addition to this, at his suggestion, the Imperial Academy
of St. Petersburg, with the emperor's concurrence, established at dif-
ferent points, throughout the entire extent of the Russian empire, a
regular system of observations on the daily changes in the state of the
barometer, thermometer, and hygrometer, on the temperature of the
soil, the direction of the wind, and the moisture of the atmosphere.
During the twelve years which elapsed between the publication of his
"Asiatic FragmentP'- (1831), and his "Central Asia" (1843), Humboldt
was in constant communication with Russia, and was regularly furnished
with the results of the system of observation which he had instituted.
Notwithstanding the varied and important contributions to physical
science which he was thus enabled to afford, he felt that he was not
compensated for the relinquishment of his long-cherished plan of visiting
Persia, Thibet, and India. Now, in his old age, ho declares that he
regrets nothing so much as that he did not carry out the project, when
it was first made.

HUliB0LDT»8 LATER TEARS.

In September, 1830, Humboldt was sent to Paris by Frederic Wil-
liam HI., with the diplomatic mission to acknowledge Louis Philippe
and the new dynasty. He was also sent a second time in February,
1831, and on his return the following autumn, appears to have visited
Weimar, and spent a few hours with Goethe, who was then in his eighty-
first year, and whoso death occurred in less than six months afterward.
In the year 1835 he was called upon to mourn the loss of his brother,
who died on the 8th of April, and whose literary executor he became.

/.ti

:>^

J,,« ''

gg LIFE AND TRAVELS OP HUMBOLDT.

Thenceforth ho rcBided mostly in Berlin, demoting himself entircly^^^
Thencetonn jj„an«eraout, revision, and publication of his broth-

,vho worked under h» ^^^ ^^ lVo„ iho mc»n clevaUon of tl.o

J ""■ f 1 re«T^bor. 'w h «r?;mma„a ,o accompany .he court U>
him from these laDorB,wiwi V p «i,„ Princft of Wales In England
London, to attend the chrBtemng of the P^f ^ J *"^„^ ,„ ij„lin,
ho was treated with a«tingu,shed honor After ^"^ -J ° J ^°^„^ ^;

'r S "^^X^ oVyTa Sa^J o^ae" f r ^^y-^^^^^^,
Se:tr:rie,^;r he w<^d^ ho pr..n«a rema^ahle ,ct^

4n in tW«.r 1849, gi.e, the follewing deseriptton of the gr»,d old
n'SilfrXrtherever hi, K,yal Mend lives. There 'a^
apartm^^JsS'him m BerUn, Potsdam in -' '"--f ^P^ dg'Tty- 0^
X passes that ho does not^- the^ W ^^ J^^/Ljoc^yd hy
r';JrtrarvS pntraU: his immense eorrespondenee,
td a~ wo™ everytucr of the hamWest scholar with the most ammble
"m y Th« inhahitants of Berlin and Potsdam a^l Ifrj ■""["":
f & show hhn «hj,0"0- ^^^XTf^i-^X^

ri hn:S'orBe^crne;:s„:LrtiS^^

l^a hta^ot wheaf htdin'g beneath the weight of its numerous neh

IT.

[laelf entirely to
ion of his broth-
npal part of hia
h his friends in
labors of others

published a dis-
elevation of the
■which had been
)f the world un-
a more extended
L IV., summoned
)any the court to
lies. In England

return to Berlin,
erit (founded by
urpose of decorat-
•oyal favor. The
le greatest living

oting all the time
e preparation and
lim as his last and
emarkable picture
f that elastic tem-
iical hardship, and
muscular strength,
rime of life, while
md discovery, is as
)f Humboldt, writ-
n of the grand old

I lives. There -are
al palaces, and not
s of hia eighty-one
re not occupied by
m correspondence,
h the most anuable
all know hiro per-
• the king. With a
.nt forward, whose
of noble calmness,
le greetings of the
pie dress, frequently
lack, so he wanders
usly, a noble picture
af its numerous rich

PRESENT POSITION.

golden ears, Wlicrever he appears ho is received with tokens of uni-
versal esteem. Tliose who pass, timidly step aside for fear of disturbing
him in his thoughts ; even the working man looks respectfully after liim,
and says to his neighbor : ' There goes Humboldt !' And Avhoever has
had the happiness of conversing with him, never forgets the force of his
lucid, simple, natural, and unaffected conversation, for in every thing he
says, uepth and learnmg, clearness and unbounded knowledge, are
revealed without any of the pride of learning, the stiff pedantry and
preciseness of many German men of science. Humboldt has evidently
been educated in the highest society; his manner is dignified, open, un-
affected, and frank ; he has lived with all nations, and adopted and
united in himself the advantages of all."

This picture is true at the present day, when six years have been
added to his venerable age. He is still in correspondence with scien-
tific men in all parts of the world, and frequently reads their letters
aloud at the table of the king. He is equally alive to the political
aspects of the different nations, and suffers no circumstance of their
material development to escape his attention. Though the friend and
equal of a king, he is thoroughly liberal and progressive in his ideas, and
there are few grander instances of individual independence on record,
than the fact of his voting the liberal ticket at the polls in Berlin, in the
year 1855. Few men have lived more fortunate lives than he : few have
ever left behind them a nobler monument of industry, zeal and genius.
Humboldt has been especially favored by Providence, from his very
cradle. Unlike the majority of distinguished men, he was not obliged to
contend with poverty or adverse circumstances; he never knew that
physical and spiritual prostration which springs from the impatience of
unacknowledged powers. And it is his highest merit that with worldly
circumstances so favorable, he did not give way to the charms and in-
dulgences of his aristocratic position, that he did not fall into the ego-
tism of high birth, nor the pride of idleness, but in all periods of his life
followed the true impulses of his nature, and made himself the self-
sacrificing ser\'ant of science, for the good of mankind. Rejecting all
the comforts which he inherited, and the distinguished society into
which he was thrown, he cheerfully sacrificed his property, and sub-
jected himself to the greatest dangers and privations in his endeavors to
investigate the phenomena of nature, and obtain a knowledge of the
laws which govern the world.

May the growing and still brightening orb of his life be roimded to
a century of years!

if-

-^}

fe^J

1 V<!,

MUNGO PARK'S

TRAVELS IN WESTERN AFRICA.

MuNQO Park, one of the first and bravest of the many travelers who
have devoted themselves to the exploration of the course of the river
Niger, was bom on the 10th of September, 1111, at Fowlshiels, on the
banks of the Yarrow, in Scotland. His father was a farmer, who was
blessed with thirteen other children, but was fortmiately able to give
. oung Mimgo a tolerable education, and to apprentice him to a surgeon
at Selkirk, in his fifteenth year. In 1789, Park entered the University
of Edinburg, and applied himself with great assiduity to the studies
connected with his profession. His summer vacations, during one of
which he made a tour to the Highlands, were devoted to botany.

After having completed his education ho removed to London, hoping
to establish himself there in busmess as a surgeon. Through his brother-
in-law, Mr. Dickson, he had the good fortune to become acquainted with
Sir Joseph Banks, the patron of so many travelers, and through whose
recommendation he was appointed surgeon to the ship Worcester, an
East Indiaman.* In this capacity he made a voyage to Bencoolen, in
Sumatra, and on his return communicated a paper to the " Linnsean
Transactions," containing descriptions of eight new fishes of that island.
About this time the African Association, of which Sir Joseph Banks was
a very active and zealous member, was desirous of engaging a person
to replace Major Houghton, who, it was feared, had fallen a sacrifice to
the climate, or perished in some contest with the natives. Park at once
offered his services, which, after some deliberation, were accepted, and
the Association fitted him out in the most liberal manner. On the 22d
of May, 1795, he sailed fi-om Portsmouth in the brig Endeavor. Hia
instructions, he says, were very plain and concise. He was directed, on
his arrival in Africa, " to pass on to the river Niger, either by the way

• The eurgeon attached to the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamer Madras, in
which I sailed from Southampton to Gibraltar, in November, 1862, was Dr. Mungo Park,
a nephew of the traveler.— B. T.

94 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF MUNGO PARK,

of B.n.bouU or by such otW -- ^^.^^^^^^^^

that I should -^-^t I rurusf™; r^o^ exertions to visit tho
tion of tho river ; that I should ."^o ™y . jj^.^ Timbuctoo and

principal towns or cities » ^^'I^^^dt^^Tt liCT o /etum to Europe,
iloussa.; and that ^ ^J-^^^^^ J^f ^^^^^^^^^^ as under all the

Mca, a town on the northern ^^^^^"^'^^^^^^^^ proceeded up the
Barra. From this place after a ^tay <>f two days he P j ^^^

Gambia, in the waters of which ^J''^ J^;'^,^^^^^^^ whose

of unknown species, together -^^^/^g cJ^U^^^ «*

teeth furnish excellent ivory. ^ J^^ ^^^^^ pi^ania, a small

Jonkakonda, P-^f ^^^^Jy^^,^^^^^^^ th'e 5th of July took

British factory m the Kmg of Yam s oom ^ ^^^^^^ ^ ^^^^ ^^

up his residence at the house of Dr. Laidley, urn
prosecute his journey into the "l*^"?!- ^^^^ Mandingo language,

which in that part of ^"?%"J^ J'°', ' ct ng the countries he was
Bource within his power "^f^"™; ^^''^ "'P'f^^^^

about to visit In t^VSSt mK n See could be placed on
cation ; but he soon found that Uttle or n ^^ ^^^

the accounts of the interior <^™;«J.f .^^i^J^^^^^^^ with each

xnost material points, were fr«*l"^^^^y ^" ^Tr y^^^^^ was therefore in-
other. His anxiety to examine f°^ J"^f/1^^^ ^^ch had now com-
creased. However, besides that the rainy «;^°°^;; .^ insuperable
menced, rendered traveUng impracticable an^^^^^^^^ y ^^^^ P .^^^^^

bar to the speedy prosecution «f J^;« ^Tf the moon, he imprudently
In observing on the 31st of July an ^fjl^l'^^y^^ f^^^a himself at-
exposed himself to the -^^\^!:;^^^,::^^\fln illn.ss that Vith

^^^Savingbeen ais5>P;^f^^ ^^^^lEa^^^

5^=::;r^^£t:Sn^.^^

Johnson, who had ^een many y^aij^m Gr^a Brrtam a

both the English and Mandingo languag^^^^^^

named Demba, the property of ^"/^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^ his return. Be-

ment of good behavior, Vron^-^^^^^J^^^^^^^^ ,^ j,

sides these Park was accompanied ^/ f "^^^^^^^^ ^ ^^^^^ thei^ safe re-

RK.

nost convenient ;
iso and termina-
ons to visit the
Timbuctoo and
cturn to Europe,
3 as under all the
;t3 should appear

he arrived at Jil-
the kingdom of
proceeded up the
numbers of fish
ppopotami, whose
the Endeavor at
r Pisania, a small
e 5th of July took
! should be able to

[andingo language,
collect from every
countries he was
d on his own appli-
could be placed on
itives, who, on the
radiction with each
If was therefore in-
rhich had now com-
equally insuperable
dy presented itself.
)on, he imprudently
le found himself at-
' an illness that Vith
two months within

>f proceeding with a
m Pisania on the 2d
legro servant, named
;ain, and understood
with a negro boy,
3 the highest induce-
on his return. Be-
jersons, who, though
nd that their safe re-
nd on our traveler's
rnificent : a horse for
> days, a small assort-

JOURNBY TO THB INTERIOR.

ment of beads, amber, and tobacco, a few changes of linen and other
apparel, an umbrella, a pocket sextant, a magnetic compass, a ther-
mometer, two fowling-pieces, two pair of pistols, and some other small
articles. His friends at Pisania accompanied him during the first two
days, and then, dismissing him on his way, took their leave, 8cC''^tlr
persuaded that they would never see him more.

He had scarcely lost sight of his European friends, and ridden off
musing and somewhat melancholy into the woods, when a body of black
people presented themselves in a clamorous manner before him, demand-
ing custom dues, in default of which they threatened to carry liim before
their king. To escape from this honor, which might have proved a
costly one. Park presented them with a little tobacco, upon which they
were contented, and he was allowed to proceed. On reaching Medina,
the capital of WooUi, he judged it prudent to present himself at the
king's levee, when the benevolent old chief not only granted him per-
mission to traverse his dominions, but assured him that he would offer
up prayers for his safety, partly to secure which ho furnished him with a
trusty guide.

Having safely reached the frontiers of the WooUi dominions. Park dis-
missed his guide ; and being about to enter a country interspersed with
deserts, in which water is frequently not to be procured, he hired three
negroes, experienced elephant-hunters, who were at once to serve as
guides and water-bearers. While ho was preparing to depart, however,
one of these negroes, who had all received a part of their pay in advance,
made his escape ; and lest the remaining two should bo disposed to fol-
low his example, he immediately gave orders to fill their calabashes with
nrater, and struck off into the wilderness, just as the sun was appearing
ibove the horizon. After crossing the first desert, they reached Talika,
the frontier town of Bondou toward Woolli, where Park engaged a
kind of custom-house officer to accompany him for a trifling present to
Fatteconda, the residence of the king. On his arrival at Fatteconda
he was received by the black chief with much apparent kindness, though
Major Houghton, he had heard, in his passage through the country, had
been both insulted and plundered by this same man. It is true the king was
so completely captivated by Park's best blue coat and gilt buttons, that
he could not resist the temptation to beg it ; but he endeavored in some
measure to remunerate him for the loss by a present of five drachms of
gold, and by altogether abstaining from examining his baggage, or exact-
ing any other present than what was voluntarily bestowed.

The territories of these petty African chiefs, who are compljusantly de-
nominated kings, are exceedingly limited in extent. Your road con-
ducts you to-day through one kingdom, to-morrow through another,
and the next day through a third ; which, of all those circumstances
that obstruct the movements of the traveler in Africa, is, perhaps, the
most vexatious and the most difficult to overcome ; as the rapacity of
the first chiefi who lie in his way deprives him of the power of satisfying

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF UUNQO PARK.

the equul rapacity of the remainder. Ilcnce, Park traveled in a perpet-
ual Btiito of captivity. He was never, unless when far removed from hu-
man society by woods or deserts, completely master of his own actions, or
Butliciently respected to render it possible for him to contemplate the
f" urtor classes, even of these savages, from a proper level.

Park left Fatteconda on the 23d of December. " In the aftomoon,"
says he, " my fellow-travelers informed me, that as this was the bound-
ary between Bondou and Kajaaga, and dangerous for travelers, it
would be necessary to contiime our journciy by night, imtil wo should
reach a more hospitable j)art of the country. I agreed to the pro-
posal, and hired two men for guides through the woods, and sis soon as
the jieople of the village were gone to sleep (the moon shining bright)
we set out. The stillness of the air, the howling of the wild beasts, and
the deep solitude of the forest made the scene solemn and impressive.
Not a word was uttered by any of us but in a whisper ; all were atten-
tive, and every one anxious to show his sagacity by pointing out to mo
the wolves and hyenas as they glided like shadows from one thicket to
another. Toward morning we arrived at a village called Kimmoo, when
our guides awakened one of their acquaintance, and we stopped to give
our asses some corn, and roast a few ground-nuts for ourselves. At day-
light we resumed our journey, and in the afternoon arrived at Joag in
the kingdom of Kajaaga."

On arriving at Joag Park — who had taken up his residence at the
house of the dooty, or chief man of the town, a rigid but hospitable Mo-
hammedan — was favored with an opportunity of observing the genuine
character of the negro. " The same evening," says ho, " Madiboo, the
bushreen w^ho had accompanied me from Pisania, went to pay a visit to
his father and mother, who dwelt at a neighboring town called Dramar
net. He was joined by my other attendant, the blacksmith ; and as soon
as it was dark, I was invited to see the sports of the inhabitants, it being
their custom, on the arrival of strangers, to welcome them by diversions
of different kinds. I found r great crowd surrounding a party who were
dancing by the light of some large fires to the music of four drums, which
were beat with great exactness and uniformity. The dances, however,
consisted more in wanton gestures than in muscular exertion or graceful
attitudes.

At Joag, while preparing to advance on his journey, he was suddenly
honored with a visit from the king's son, accompanied by a troop of
horse, who, pretending that by entering his father's dominions he had
forfeited the whole of his property, insisted upon examining his merchan-
dise, of which he seized upon the moiety. Of the remnant that remained,
particularly a little amber and a few beads, which he had succeeded in
concealing, he was now so fearful of producing any portion, even for the
purchase of food, lest he should once more awaken the cupidity rf the
authorities, that both he and his attendants determined on combating
hunger for the day, " and wait some opportunity of purchasing or beg-

-.iiiMin-ti mnii'tr* ■ iii'iliMirii

.RK.

eled in a pcrpct-
emovod from hu-
i» own uctiona, or
contemplate the

level.

n thcftftomoon,"
A was the bound-
for travelers, it
, imtil wo should
reed to the pro-
ds, and as soon as
n shining bright)
wild beasts, and
n and impressive.
!r ; all were atten-
pointing out to mo
om ono thicket to
led Kimmoo, when
we stopped to give
)ur8elves. At day-
arrived at Joag in

lis residence at the
but hospitable Mo-
serving the genuine
he, " Madiboo, the
ent to pay a visit to
town called Drama-
ksmith; and as soon
inhabitants, it being
B them by diversions
ng a party who were
of four drums, which
'he dances, however,
: exertion or graceful

ney, ho vras suddenly
ipanied by a troop of
•'8 dominions he had
caraining his merchan-
jmnant that remained,

he had succeeded in
r portion, even for the
3n the cupidity rf the
ermined on combating

of purchasing or beg-

AFRIOAN CUSTOMS.

ging provisions." In tlii.s extremity, while he was sitting down cliewing
straws, a fi'niiile wlave, who observed him in passing by, was moved with
compassion, and presented him with a (piantity of groimd-nuts, which
was a very seasoiiablo supply. Scarcely ha<l the old woman lell him, be-
fore ho received information that the nephew of the Kingof K.isson, who
had been sent by liis uncle on an embassy to the King of Kajaag.a, and
was now returning to his own country, was about to pay him a visit.
He came accordingly, mid upon Park's representing to him his situation
and distresses, kindly offered to bo his guide and protector as far as Kas-
son. With him, therefore, our traveler now continued his route to the
banks of the Senegal, upon crossing which, his royal guide, who, like
otlier guides, required a present for his services, infoiTUcd Iiim they were
in his uncle's dominions, and in complete safety.

Safe or not safe, however. Park soon found that the stranger and the
traveler were nowhere beyond tho reach of extortion. Half of tlie little
property which had escaped the fangs of the Kajaaga people, was hero
taken from him. Ho was then permitted to depart. Among the honest
negroes Avith Avhoin ho had set out from Pisania, on tho Gambia, there
was a blacksmith from tho interior, avIio, liaving amassed some little
money upon tho coast, was now returning to spend tho remainder of hia
days in his native land. Shortly after quitting Teeseo, tho last place
where our traveler had submitted to legal robbery, ho and his compan-
ions came Avithin sight of the blacksmith's village. The news of his re-
turn, had, it seems, i)receded him. His brother, accompanied by a sing-
ing-man, came forth to welcome tho wanderer home, and brought along
Avith him a horse, that the blacksmith " might enter his native town in a
dignified manner." Park and his companions were desired to put a good
charge of poAvder into their guns. The singing-man led the Avay ; the
two brothers followed ; and the cavalcade was quickly joined by a con-
siderable number of the inhabitants, who, by extravagant gestures and
songs of triumph, testified their joy at the return of their toAvnsman.
" Wlien we arrived at the blacksmith's place of residence, we dismounted,
and fired our muskets. The meeting between him and his relations was
very tender ; for these rude children of nature, freed from restmint, dis-
play their emotions in the strongest and most expressive manner. Amid
these transports, the blacksmith's aged mother was led forth, leaning
upon a stafi". Every one made way for her ; and she stretched out her
hand to bid her son welcome. Being totally blind, she stroked hia
hands, and arms, and face Avith great care, and seemed highly delighted
that her latter days were blessed by his return, and that her ears once
more heard the music of his voice. From this interview, I was con-
vinced, that whatever difference there is between the Negro and Euro-
pean in the conformation of the nose, and the color of their skin, there is
none in the genuine sympathies and characteristic feelings of our com-
mon nature.

" During the tumult of these congratulations, I had seated myself

MtfM

LIFK AND TRAVELS OF MUNOO PARK.

apart, by tlic Hide of ono of tlu* lints, Itcinij unwillin-j to liitfrnipt the
flow of filial and parcntiil ti'iulcriii'ss; iind tlio attuntioii of tlic company
was so entirely taken up with tlie blacksinitli, that I bi'Iievc none of his
friends Iiad observetl me. When all thcpe«)ple present ha<l seated them-
selves, the bineksmith w.is desired by his futiier to give some areount of
liis adventures ; and silenee behig commanded he beg.aii ; and after re-
peatedly thanking God for the bucccsh that had attended liim, related
every material occurrence that had happened to him from his leaving
Kiisson to his arrival at the Gambia ; his employment and success in
those parts ; and the dangers ho had escaped in returning to liis native
country. In the latter part of his narration, he had frequent occasion to
mention me ; and after many strong expressions conceniing my kindness
to him, lie pointed to the place where I sat, and exclaimed, ^iffllle ibi
siriiKj (see him sitting there). In a moment all eyes were turned upon
mo. I appeared like a being dropped from the clouds ; every ono wa.s
.surprised that they had not observed mo before ; and a few women and
children expressed great uneasiness at being so near a man of such an
imcommon appearance. By degrees, however, their apprehensions sub-
sided, and when the blacksmith assured them I was perfectly inoflfensivc,
some of them ventured so far as to examine the texture of my clothes;
but many of them were still very suspicious, and when by accident I
happened to move myself, or look at the young children, their mothers
would scamper off with them with the greatest precipitation. In a few
hours, however, they all became reconciled to me."

With those honest people Park remained during the whole of that
day and the next, and then, accompanied by the worthy blacksmith, who
declared that he would not quit him during his stay in that part of the
country, set forward toward Kooniakary. On his arrival at this city he
obtained an audience of the king, a fine old man, who, for his conduct
both in peace and war, was greatly beloved by his subjects. His beha-
vior toward the stranger was not inconsistent with his character. Ho
informed him with apparent regret, that the direct route to Bambarra
was about to bo closed by war ; but, after vainly advising his guest to
retrace his footsteps, added, that there yet remained some hopes of
peace, respecting the validity of which he should be able to pronounce
an opinion in the course of four or five days. In the mean w^hilo be in-
vited Park to remiun in the neighborhood.

On the 1st of February, 1796, the king's messenger returned from
the contiguous kingdom of Kaarta, bringing intelligence that the Bam-
barra army had not yet entered the country, and that it was possible the
traveler might be enabled to traverse it before the invasion should take
place. Accordingly, being provided with two guides by the king. Park
took leave of his friend the blacksmith, and set forward on his dangerous
journey. The country, at all times thickly peopled, now swarmed with
fugitives, \shom the fear of the Bambarrans had terrified from their
homes. Tlic scenery in many places was romantically wild. " On com-

ey^

hisi

rel

flo

ARK.

to interrupt the
of Iho compmiy
Ucvc iioiu" of his
liiiil seutod tliem-
! 80inc account of
m; ami aft»r rc-
idcd him, riUited
from hi!* leaving
it and success in
uing to liis native
squent occasion to
•ning my kindness
laimed, ^IffiUn ibi
were turned upon
Is ; every one was
a few women and
a man of such an
apprehensions sub-
crfectly inoffensive,
uro of my clothes;
hen by accident I
Iron, their mothers
[)itation. In a few

the whole of that
!hy blacksmith, who

in that part of the
rrival at this city he
rho, for his conduct
subjects. His beha-

his character. Ho

route to Bambarra
Ivising his guest to
med some hopes of
able to pronounce
le mean while he in-

jnger returned from
gcncc that the Bam-
,at it was possible the
invasion should take
les by the king. Park
rard on his dangerous
d, now swarmed with
terrified from their
,lly wild. " On com-

ADVENTURK WITH TWO NATIVES.

ing In sight of the mountains of Footado, we traveled," snys Park, " with
great difficulty «lown a stony an<l abrupt precipice, and continued our
way in the bed of a dried river-oourse, where the trees meeting over our
heads, made the place dark and cool. In a little time we reached the
bottom of this romantic glen ; an<l about ten o'clock emerged from be-
tween two rocky liills, and found ourselves on the level and sandy plains
of Kaarta. At noon we arrived at a korrce, or watering-place, where,
for a few strings of beads, I purchased as much milk and com-meal as
we could eat ; and indeed provisions are hero so cheap, and the shep-
herds live in such afHuenco, that they seldom ask any return for what
refreshment a traveler receives from them."

From this place, having prevailed upon his landlord, a Mohammedan
negro, to accompany him as a guide to Kemmoo, Park set forward on
the 11th of February, lie observes, "We had no sooner got into a
dark and lonely part of the first wood, than ho made a sign for us to
stop ; and taking hold of a hollow piece of bamboo that hung as an
anmlct round his neck, whistled very loud three times. I confess I was
somewhat startled, thinking it was a signal for some of his companions
to come and attack us ; but he assured me it was done merely with a
view to ascertain what success we were likely to meet with on our pres-
ent journey. Ho then dismounted, laid his spear across the road, and
having said a number of short prayers, concluded with three loud whis-
tles ; afler which he listened for some time, is if in expectation of an
answer, and receiving none, told us wo might proceed without fear, for
there was no danger."

Adventures now appeared to crowd npon the party. The country
through which their road lay being thickly sprinkled with wild fruit-trees,
they amused themselves, as they rode slowly along, with picking and eat-
ing the fruit, "In this pursuit," says Park, "I had wandered a little
from my people, and being uncertain whether they were before or behind
me, I hastened to a rising ground to look about me. As I was proceed-
ing toward this eminence, two negro horsemen, armed with muskets,
came galloping from among the bushes. On seeing them I made a full
stop ; the horsemen did the same ; and all three of us seemed equally
surprised and confounded at this interview. As I approached them their
fears increased, and one of them, after casting on mo a look of horror,
rode off at full speed ; the other, in a panic of fear, put his hand over his
eyes, and continued muttering prayers until his horse, seemingly without
his rider's knowledge, conveyed him slowly after his companion. About
a mile to the westward they fell in with my attendants, to whom they
related a frightful story. It seems their fears had dressed me in the
flowing robes of a tremendous spirit ; and one of them affirmed, that
when I made my appearance, a cold blast of wind came pouring down
upon him from the sky, like so much cold water."

Shortly after this they arrived at the capital of Kaarta, svhere he was
an objcc^ of such extraordinary curiosity to the populace — the majority

100

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF MUNOO PARK.

of whom had never before Been a white man — that they burst forcibly
into his hut, crowd after crowd. Tliose who had beheld the monster
gave way to those who had not, until, as he observes, the hut was filled
and emptied thirteen different times. Here he found that the war with
Bambarra had actually commenced ; that all communication between the
countries had consequently ceased ; and that, if it was hia determination
to persevere, it would bo necessary to take a circuitous route through
the Moorish kingdom of Ludamar. The people of Kaarta were Moham-
medans ; but instead of the fine sonorous voice of the muezzin, by which
the faithful are elsewhere summoned to their devotions, the hour of
prayer was here announced by t)jo beating of drums, and blowing
through large elephant's teeth, hollowed out in such a manner as to
resemble bugle-horns. The soimd of these horns Park thought melodi-
ous, and approaching nearer to the himian voice than any other artificial
sound. Being very desirous to depart from the seat of war, he presented
his horse-pistols and holsters to the kuig; and on pressing to be dis-
missed, received in return an escort of eight horsemen to conduct him to
Jarra. Three of the king's sons, with two hundred horsemen, kindly un-
dertook to accompany him a little way on his journey.

On hia arrival at Jarra, in the kingdom of Ludamar, he dispatched a
messenger to All who was then encamped near Bcnowm, soliciting permLs-
sion to pass unmolested through his territories ; and having waited four-
teen days for his reply, a slave at length arrived from the chief, affirming
that he had been instructed to conduct the traveler in safety as far as
Gooinba. His negro, Johnson, here refused to follow him any further,
and signified his intention of pushing back without delay to Gambia ;
upon which Park, fearful of che success of his enterprise, intrusted him
with a copy of his journal, reserving another for himself, directing Lim
to deliver the papers to the English on the coast. A portion of his bag-
gage and apparel he committed to the care of a slave-merchant at Jarra,
who was known to Dr. Laidley. He then departed, with his slave-boy,
accompanied by the chiefs messenger. On the road he was robbed 6nce
more by the Moors, who added insult to violence ; and when he was
nearly perishing from thirst, beat away his fiiithful slave from the wells,
without permitting him to draw water.

However, after much fatigue and extraordinary privations, they
arrived in Ali's camp at Benowm, where Park was immediately sur-
rounded by crowds of tanatical Moors, attracted partly from curiosity,
partly from a desire to vent their fierce zeal against a Christian. " My
arrival," says he, " was no sooner observed than the people, who drew
water at the wells, threw down their buckets ; those in the tents mounted
their horses, and men, women, and children came running ^ ' galloping
toward me. I soon found myself surrounded by such a crowd, that I
could scarcely move ; one pulled my clothes, another took off my hat ;
a third stopped me to examine my waistcoat buttons, and a fourth called
out * La, iUah il, allah, Mohammed rossool allah (there is no God but

sc
hj
nJ

tif
a*

ey burst forcibly-
eld the monster
;he hut was filled
hat the war with
ition between the
liis determination
as route through
trta were Moham-
nuezzin, by which
ons, the hour of
ims, and blowing
I a manner as to
t thought melodi-
any other artificial
; war, he presented
)ressing to be dis-
to conduct him to
)r8emen, kindly un-

ar, he dispatched a ]
m, soliciting pernus-
having waited four-
. the chief, aflirming

in safety as far as
pw him any further,
t delay to Gambia ;
prise, intrusted him
nself, directing him
V portion of his bag-
B-merchant at Jarra,
I, with his slave-boy,

he was robbed 6nce
, and when he was
lave fi:om the wells,

ary privations, they
/aa immediately sur-
)artlyfrom curiosity,
,t a Christian. "My
he people, who drew
s in the tents mounted
runnmg " gallopmg
such a crowd, that I
her took off my hat ;
ns, and a fourth called
(there is no God but

SULTAN ALl'S CAMP.

101

God, and Mohammed is his prophet), and signified, in a threatening
manner, that I must repeat those words. We rciched at length the
king's tent, where we found a great number of people, men, women, and
children, assembled. Ali was sitting on a black leathern cushion, clip-
ping a few hairs from his upper lip — a female attendant holding np a
looking-glass before him. He appeared to be an old man of the Arab
caste, with a long white beard, and he had a sullen and indignant aspect.
He surveyed me wi*h attention, and inquired of the Moors if I could
speak Arabic ; and being answered in the negative, he appeared much
surprised, and continued silent. The surrounding attendants, and particu-
larly the ladies, were abundantly more inquisitive ; they asked a thousand
questions, inspected every part of my apparel, searched my pockets, and
obliged me to unbutton my waistcoat and display the whiteness of my
skin ; they even counted my toes and fingers, as if they doubted whether
I was in truth a human being."

SULTAN ALl'STLHT AT BE.HOWM.

Ali now, with the base idea of insulting an unprotected stranger,
ordered a wild boar to be brought in, which he signified his desire that
Park should kill and eat. This, well knowing their religious prejudices,
he, of course, refused to do ; upon which the boys who led in the boar
were commanded to let it loose upon him, the Moors supposing that
there exists an inveterate feud between pigs and Christians, and that it
would immediately run upon and gore him. Tho boar, however, was
more magnanimous. Scorning to attack a defenseless foreigner, he no
sooner found himself at liberty than, brandishing his tusks at the natives,
he rushed at them indiscriminately, and then, to complete their conster-
nation, took shelter under the very couch upon which the tyrant was sit-
ting. This bold i)rocceding of the unclean beast dissolved the assembly,
and the traveler was led away to the tent of a slave, in front of which,

102

LIFE

AND TRAVELS OF MUNaO PARK.

^"'^ • 1 „ iittlP food Il«rc ho like-

not being pevmitted to enter, he ^2^^^J^'^:^L^^,y i^.o curious
Z. l-.od the night, lymg "P^ ^^^^ J^^^^^^^ was given to

r t^ihertSr^^^^^^^^^ - ^- ^^ ^ ^^"^ "^

the 'end of it. us his finest 3^;^^^^^^^^^^ ,« eonceive that the Christian

By degrees, ^<>^^'''^'^^^'"Ztv^^ useful, but could thu>k of no
mieht, m one way or another, be ren^iu c ^^ j^^

b fter employment for !"- ^^-V^tLeLrort^.e head of the young
Lde his first attempt^! the ^oy^ /^^^^^^^^ l^^ „« great desire to mo-
prince of Ludamar. This ^^8^"^"'! ^^^^^^ operation, for he ahnost

C^olize, and lus --^^^'^^Z::'-rt7Xv^'<^^^^ ^-^' ^^^^'^^, T
at the outset made an ^^^ "^^^^^ J^^^! mortal. AU seemed by
duced him once more to the ^'f^'^^ ^^^ ether with his services,
no means desirous, however, «* ^^^^^^^^ same,inotives which induce

wishmg, perhaps, to preserve l^'^ « ^^Xe, to render his escape the
U9 to preserve a wild beast; and, tj^^^^^^^^^ ^ ^is baggage, mclud-

^o^^eiVcti-^^«'^<>«^rTreof tr^^^^^^ compasses, the other
inp his gold, amber, watch, and one «f ^« P°S t^.e^floor of his hut.
"f had'ortunately ^--\- J;V;:^^^^^^^^ avarice, but the

The gold and amber were ^^S^^^^ ^ra^, ^J^S ^^^ ^^ ^^^iosity. " Ah
pockft compass «o«\^««T« "^.^^iTthat sS piece of iron, the needle,
was very desirous to be ^"^'^^^^''7**71 found myself somevhat puz-
Tays pointed to tbe Great Deser,and^^^^^^^^

.led to answer the ^-^7;^ J^a^J ^-^ *^«' ^'^ ^'"'^ '""l T Sa
created a suspicion that I ^^^^^f^'" .^^^ far beyond the sands of Sa-
therefore told bim that my mother resided *a y^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^,

hara,and that while she was ^ve the P^^^^ and that if she wa.

that way, and serve as a gmde to conduc^^m ^^ ^^^ ^omp^ with

dead it would point to her grav e ^U " repeatedly, but ob-

ous an mstrument in his possession. ^,^^^ gi^ould

^"it now began to be ^^^^^^^Xi^^^^^^^^^ dissimilar. Some
be done with their pr^onev. Their decision ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^

were of opinion that ho should be V^^^/'^ ^^^^^, ,^^, his eyes
merely lose his right hand while a third P V ^^^^^ ^^^, ^.ttera
ought'to be put out. Ah ^^^f^^'^^^^Xi^^ then in the north,
should remain as they ;^«-;"^^^X^^^^ related to our traveler,

had seen him. Meanwhile all these repms His demand to

and tended not a Uttle to distress and ^^^^^^ ^?hTaccuniulated horrors
be pennitted to depart was tormaUy refused^ ^^ ^^^^^^ ^j^,

of his situation,united witji the want of tood a ,_^ tio„ from

on a fever, by ^^^^V'f ^11? S^phic^^^ ^ «^^^^ '"'"^ ^'
the Moors did not therefore ceast. iuey p ^^

RK.

Ilorc ho like-
by llie curious
is, was givcu to
d to a stuko in

lat the Christian
ould think of no
this capacity he
ad of the young
•eat desire to mo-
ion, for he aUnost
head, quickly re-
. Ali seemed by
with his services,
ives which induce
er his escape the
i baggage, includ-
npasses, the other
e floor of his hut.
(h avarice, hut the
18 curiosity. "Ah
of iron, the needle,
self somev.hat puz-
lorance would have
[ truth from hun ; I
id the sands of Sa-
■vvould always point
; and that if she was
at the compass with
repeatedly, but ob-
00k it up with great
e thought therd was
f keeping so danger-
advisers what should
ery dissunilar. Some
thers that ho should
nought that his eyes
irmined that matters
la, then in the north,
;lated to our traveler,
lind. His demand to
i accumulated horrors
3ep, at length brought
,t his persecution from
I his cloak from him,

MOORISH TYRANNY.

103

they overwhelmed him with insults, tlioy tortured him like some fero-
cious animal, for their amusement, and when, to escape from this detest-
able thraldom, lie crawled away to a short distance from the camp, he
was forced back by menaces and violence.

At length, after more than a month's detention at Bcnowm, he was
commanded to follow Ali to the northern encampment of Bubakcr, on
the skirts of the Great Desert, and on the way endured the extremity
of hunger, thirst, and fatigue. Upon an-iving at Bubaker, ho was shown
as a strange animal to Fatima, who, though far from being exempt from
the Moori^»h prejudices against a Christian, or in any remarkable degree
disposed to humanity, still treated him with somewhat gi-oater lenity
than the rest of the Moors ; and, upon the departure of her husband for
Jarra, not only obtained him permission to join the party, but prevailed
upon the tyr.int to rcjtoro him his liorse, saddle, and bridle, together
Avith a part of liis apparel. His faithful black boy, Deraba, however,
was taken from him, notwithstanding his animated remonstrances to Ali,
who, upon his pressing the point rather warmly, only replied, that if ho
did not instantly mount his horse and depart ho should share the fate of
his slivvo. " There is something in the fi-own of a tyrant," says Park,
"which rouses the most secret emotions ol the heart. I could not su})-
press my feelings, and for once entertained an indignant wish to rid the
world of such a monster. Poor Demba was not less aiFected than my-
self; he liad formed a strong attachment toward me, and had a cheer-
fidness of disposition which often beguiled the tedii )us hours of captivity.
He was likewise a proficient in the Bambarra tongue, and promised, on
that account, to be of great use to mo in future. But it was in vain to
expect any thing favorable to humanity from a people who are strangers
to its dictates. So, having shaken hands with this unfortunate boy, and
blended my tears with his, assuring him, however, I would do my best
to redeem him, I saw him led off by three of All's slaves toward the
camp of Bubaker."

Upon his arrival at Jarra, where he was shortly afterward transferred
by Ali to tyrants of a lower grade, his condition, fer from being im-
proved, was only rendered the more intolerable. The city itself, more-
over, was in a state of the utmost confusion. Malcontents from Kaarta
liaving taken refuge there, had recently made an incursion into their
native country, carried off a large quantity of plimder, and thus drawn
the vengeance of their king against the city. All those who had reason
to dread his resentment were now, therefore, preparing to fly into Bam-
barra ; and Park, whose route lay in the same direction, became exceed-
ingly desirous of effecting his escape from the Moors, that he might seize
r.:pon this fortunate occasion of fulfilling the object of his mission.
" Their departure," says he, speaking of the black fugitives, " was very
affecting : the women and children crying, the men sullen and dejected,
and all of them looking back with regret on their native town ; and on
the wells and rocks beyond which their ambition had never tempted

104

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP MUNGO PARK.

them to stray, and where they liad laid all their plans of future happiness,
all of Avhich they were now forced to abandon, and to seek shelter mnong
strangers."

IIoj)ing to escape in this confused throng, he mounted his horse, and
taking a bag of corn before him, rode slowly off along with the towns-
])eopIe. On their arrival fkt Queira, a village at no great distance from
the city. Park began to flatter himself that he had really eluded the
vigilance of his persecutors, but before the agreeable idea had got a firm
footing in his mind, he saw All's chief slave, accompanied by four Moors,
arrive, and take up their lodgings with the dooty. Johnson, Park's
interpreter (who had been seized by All's order before he could leave
Jarra), suspecting the design of this visit, sent two boys to overhear
their conversation, by which means ho learned that it was their intention
ti . carry Park back to Bubaker. Upon this ho at once carao to the dcs-
j>i "j'te resolution to effect that very night his deliverance from his pur-
suers, or to perish in the attempt. Johnson, who applauded this deter-
mination, but wanted the courage to imitate it, was nevertheless exceed-
ingly well disposed to aid in eftccting his master's escape. He therefore
undertook to keep watch upon the movements of the enemy, while Park
was preparing for flight. About midnight he got all his apparel in readi-
ness, which consisted of two shirts, two pair of trousers, two pocket-
handkerchiefs, an upper and under waistcoat, a hat, a pair of half boots,
and a cloak. Besides these things he had not in his possession a single
bead or any other article Avith which to purchase food for himself, or
jtrovcnder for his horse. " About daybreak, Johnson, who had been
listening to the Moors all night, came," says he, " and whispered to mo
that they were all asleep. The awful crisis was now arrived when I was
again either to taste the blessings of freedom, or languish out my days
in captivity. A cold sweat moistened my forehead as I thought of tho
dreadful alternative, and reflected that one way or the other, my fixto
must be decided in the course of the ensuing day. But to dellberato
was to lose the only chance of escaping. So taking up my bundle, I
stepped gently over the negroes Avho were sleeping in tho open air, and,
having mounted ray horse, I bade Johnson farewell, desiring him to take
jiarticular care of my papers I had intrusted him with, and inform my
filcnds in Gambia that he had left me in good health on my way to Bara-
barru. I proceeded with great caution, surveying each bush, and fre-
qjiently listening and looking behind me for the Moorish horeemen, until
I was about a mile from tho town, when I was surprised to find myself
in the neighborhood of a korrec, belonging to the Moors. Tlie shepherds
followed me for about a mile, hooting and throwing stones after me;
and when I was out of their reach, and had begtm to itidulgc the pleas-
ing hope of escaping, T was again greatly alarmed to hear somebody
halloo behind me, and, looking back, I saw three Moore on horseback
coming after me at full speod, wliooping and brandishing their double-
V>avrel guns. I knew it was in vain to think of esiaping, and therefore

RK.

iitnrc happiness,
k shelter among

d his horse, and
with the towns-
at distance from
pally eluded the
■a had got a firm
1 by four Moors,
Johnson, Park's
> he could leave
oys to overhear
as their intention
came to the des-
nco from his pur-
lauded this deter-
rertheless exceed-
po. He therefore
memy, while Park
8 apparel in readi-
isers, two pocket-
pair of half boots,
possession a single
»od for himself, or
on, who had been
d whispered to me
irrived when I was
juish out my days
18 I thought of the
the other, my fate
But to deliberate
g up my bundle, I
1 the open air, and,
iesiring him to take
ith, and inform my
on my way to Bara-
each bush, and fre-
)rish horsemen, until
ised to find myself
ors. Tlie shepherds
,g stones after me;
to indulge the pleas-
[ to hear somebody
Moors on horseback
lishing their double-
aping, and therefore

Mmi^

! " If'', .f 1,1 'Ml

Ju '■■ I ' \i iji

„!■ ^'il*!

,,'|l?f J-'lWil ,!:|||iiP'P.' '

PR08PKCT OF DEATU.

106

turned back and met thorn, when two of them canghthold of my bridle,
one on each side, and tho third, presenting his nmsket, told nie I must
go back to AH."

It soon appeared, liowovcr, that those gentlemen were merely i>rivato
robbers, who were fearful that their master liad not sufficiently pillaged
tho stranger ; for, after examining liis bundle, and plundering him of his
cloak, they bade him begone, and follow them no further. Too happy
to bo rid of the villains at any rate, ho immediately struck into the woods
and continued his journey. His joy at thus escaping from the Moors
was quickly damped by the consideration that he must very soon be in
want of both food and water, neither of which could he procure without
approaching villages or wells, where ho would almost inevitably en-
counter his old enemies. He therefore pushed on with all the vigor of
■which ho was possessed, in the hope of reaching some town or village
of the kingdom of Bambarra. But he already began to experience tho
tortures of thirst; his mouth was parched and inflamed; a sudden
dimness, accompanied by symptoms of fainting, would frequently como
over his eyes ; and as his horse also was exceedingly fatigued, he began
to apprehend that he should perish of thirst. Some shrubs, the leaves
of which ho chewed to relieve the burning pain in his mouth and throat,
were all found to be bitter and of no service. " A little before sunset,
having reached the top of a gentle rising," says Park, *' I climbed a
high tree, from the topmost branches of which I cast a melancholy look
over the barren wilderness, but Avithout discovering tho most distant
trace of a human dwelling. The same dismal uniformity of shrubs and
s.and everywhere presented itself, and the horizon was level and uninter-
rupted as that of the sea.

" Descending from tho tree, I found my horse devouring the stubblo
and brushwood with great avidity ; and as I was now too faint to at-
tempt walking, and my horse too much fatigued to carry me, I thought
it but an act of humanity, and perhaps the last I should ever have it in
my power to perform, to take off his bridle and let him shift for him-
self; in doing which, I was affected with sickness and giddiness ; and,
falling upon the sand, felt as if the hour of death was fast approaching.
Here then (thought I), after a short but ineffectual struggle, terminate
all my hopes of being useful in my day and generation — here must the
short span of my life como to an end. I cast, as I believed, a last look
on the surrounding scene, and while I reflected on the a'wful change that
was about to take place, this world and its enjoyments seemed to vanish
from my recollection. Nature, however, at length resumed its func-
tions ; and on recovering my senses I found myself stretched upon tho
sand, with the bridle still in my hand, and the sun just sinking behind
the trees. I now summoned all my resolution, and determined to make
another effort to prolong my existence: and, as the evening was some-
what cool, I resolved to travel as far as my limbs would carry me, in
hopes of reaching (my only resource) a watering-place. With this view

100

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF MUNGO PARK.

I put tlie biulle upon my horse, and driving him before me, went slowly
along ibr ubout an hour, wlicn I perceived some lightning from the
north-cast — :* most delightful sight, for it promised rain. The darkness
and lightning increased very rapidly; and in less than an hour I heard
the wind roaring behind the bushes. I had already opened my ffouth
to receive the refreshing drops which I expected : but I was instantly
covered with a cloud of sand, driven with such force by the wind as to
gi\o a very disagreeable sensation to my face and arms; and I was
oliliged to mount my horse and stop under a bush to prevent being suf-
focated. The sand continued to fly for near an hour in amazing quan-
tities, after which I again set forward, and traveled with difficulty until
ten o'clock. About this time I was agreeably surprised by some very
vivid flashes of lightning, followed by a few heavy drops of rain. In a
little time the sand ceased to fly, and I alighted and spread out all my
clean clothes to collect the rain, which at length I saw would certainly
fall. For more than an hour it rained plentifully, and I quenched my
thirst by wringing and sucking my clothes.

"There being no moon, it was remarkably dark; so that I was
obliged to lead my horse, and direct my way by the compass, which the
lightning enabled me to observe. In this manner I traveled with toler-
able expedition until past midnight ; when the lightning became more
distant, and I was under the necessity of groping along, to the no small
danger of my hands and eyes. About two o'clock my horse started at
something ; and, looking around, I was not a little surprised to see a light
at a short distance among the trees, and supposing it to be a town, I
groped along the sand in hopes of finding corn-stalks, cotton, or other
appearances of cultivation, but found none. As I approached, I per-
ceived a number of other lights in different places, and began to suspect
that I had fallen upon a party of Moors. However, in my present
situation, I was resolved to see who they were, if I could do it with
safety. I accordingly led my horse cautiously toward the light, and
heard by the lowing of the cattle, and the clamorous tongues of the
herdsmen, that it was a watering-place, and most likely belonged to the
floors. Delightful as the sound of the human voice was to me, I re-
solved once more to strike into the woods, and rather run the risk of
perishing with hunger, than trust myself again in their hands; but
being still thirsty, and dreading the approach of the burning day, I
thought it prudent to search for the wells, which I expected to find at
no great distance. In this pursuit I inadvertently approached so near
one of the tents as to be perceived by a woman, who immediately
screamed out. The people came running to her assistance from some of
the neighboring tents, and passed so very near me that I thought I was
discovered, and hastened again into the woods.

" About a mile from this place I heard a loud and confused noise,
somewhere to the right of my course, and in a short time was happy to
find it was the croaking of frogs, which was heavenly music to my ears.

see
wii
as

Ids
mc
W
thi
cai

)

ARK.

J me, went slowly
ghtning from the
in. The darkness
1 an hour I heard '
jpened my irouth |
ut I was instantly
by the wind as to ,

arms; and I was ,
prevent being suf- |
r in amazing quan- \
vith difficulty until
ised by some very ,
rops of rain. In a j

spread out all my |
aw would certainly |
nd I quenched my j

,rk; so that I was ^
compass, which the |
traveled with toler- |
tning became more I
ang, to the no small ^
my horse started at
prised to see a light -
r it to be a town, I
Iks, cotton, or other ,
; approached, I per-
ind began to suspect
ver, in my present
r I could do it with
ward the light, and
irous tongues of the
kely belonged to the
ice was to me, I re-
ither run the risk of
in their hands; but
' the burning day, I
I expected to find at
y approached so near
an, who immediately
aistance from some of
! that I thought I was

id and confused noise,
.rt time was happy to
jnly music to my ears.

APPROACU TO THE NIOKIl.

107

I followed the souml, and at daybreak arrived at some tiliullow muddy
pools, so full of frogs that it was difficult to disoorn tlio water. The
noise they made frightened my horse, and I waa obliged to keep tlieni
quiet by beating the water with a branch until lie had drunk. Having
here quenched my thirst, I ascended a tree, and the moniing being elear,
I soon perceived the smoke of the wateiing-place wliich I had )m».sod hi
the night, and observed another pillar of sniuke, east-south-east, distant
twelve or fourteen miles."

Toward this column of smoke, which, as he was informed, arose from
a Foulah village, ho now directed his course ; but on arri> ing at the
place, was inhospitably driven from every door, except that of an old
woman, who kindly received him into her dwelHng, and funiished him
with food for himself, and Avith provender for his horse. Even here,
however, the influence of Ali pursued him like his evil genius. The
people who had collected round him while he was eating, began, aa ho
clearly discovered from their expressions, to form the design of carrying
him back once more to Benowm or Bubaker. lie therefore hastened
his departure, and having wandered among the woods all day, passed
the night under a tree. In this way lie continued his journey, some-
times meeting Avith hospitality, but more frequently avoiding the dwell-
ings of man, and subsisting upon the wild produce of tlie woods, and the
water of a few pools, to which the croaking of the frogs directed him.

At length he entered the kingdom of Bambarra, where he found tho
people more hospitable in proportion as they were more opulent than
their neighbors. Cultivation was here carried on in a spirited manner,
and on an extensive scale, and " hunger," as tho natives expressed it,
" was never known." Tho country itself was beautiful, intersected on
all sides by rivulets, which, after a rain-storm, were swelled into rapid
streams. Park's horse was now so attenuated by fatigue that it appeared
like a mere skeleton, which tho traveler, fearing to mount, drove before
hini, as if to scare away the crows. The Bambarrans, whose hospitable
disposition was accompanied by but little delicacy, were infinitely
amused at this droll spectacle. Taking him for a Moor, they supposed
from his appearance that he must be one of those religious mendicants
who, having performed the pilgrimage to the holy cities, thenceforward
consider themselves fully entitled to subsist upon the labors of their in-
dustrious co-religionists. " ' He has been at Mecca,' said one ; ' you may
see that by his clothes.' Another asked if my horse was sick ; a third
wished to purchase it, &c. So that I believe the very slaves were
ashamed to be seen in my company."

However, in spite of all this laughter and ridicule, he proceeded on
his way, and at length had the satisfaction to be informed that on the
morrow he should see the Niger, denominated Joliba, or the " Great
Water," by the natives. Next morning, the 21st of July, after passing
through several large villages, he saw the smoke ascend over Sego, the
capital of Bambarra, and felt elate with joy at the thought of drawing

nmt

108

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF MUNOO PARK.

near sn imj)ortant an object of liis mission. " As wo approached the
town," says Park, " I was fortunate onoujjh to overtake the fugitive
Kaartans, to whose kindness I had been so much indebted in my
journey through Bambarra. Tliey readily agreed to introduce me to
the king, and wo rode together through some marshy ground, where,
an I anxiously looked around for the river, ono of them called out Geo
affilli (see tho water) ; and, looking forward, I saw Avith infinite pleas-
ure the great object of my mission — the long sought-for, majestic Niger,
glittering in tho morning sun, as broad as tho Thames at Westminster,
and flowing slowly to the eastward, I hastened to tho brink, and,
having drimk of the water, lifted up my fervent thanks in prayer to
the Great Ruler of all things for having thus far crowned ray endeavors
with success."

Sego, tlie capital of Bambarra, consisted of four distinct towns, two
on the northern, and two on tho southern bank of the Niger. Tlie king
at this period resided on the southern bank, while Park had arrived on
the opposite side. Tho communication between the different quarters
of tho city was kept np by means of largo canoes, which were con-
stantly passing and repassing ; notwithstanding wliich, so great was the
pressure of passengers, that Park was compelled to Avait upward of two
hours before he could obtain even a chance of beuig ferried over.
Meanwhile, the prospect before him was novel and striking in the
highest degree. " The view of this extensive city," ho observes, " the
numerous canoes on tho river, the crowded population, and tho cul-
tivated state of the surrounding country formed altogether a prospect
of civilization and magnificence which I littlo expected to find in the
bosom of Africa."

While he was thus waiting for a passage, the news was conveyed to
Mansong that a white man was on the banks of tho river coming to see
him. The king, who seems to have been alarmed at this intelligence,
immediately dispatched a messenger, who was directed to inform the
stranger that he would not be admitted into the royal presence until
the purport of his mission was made known; and that in the mean
while, he was prohibited from passing tho river. He was likewise told
that the king desired him to seek lodgings in one of the villages in the
vicinity of the capital. As there was no allemative, he at once set out
for tho village, where, to his great mortification, he found that no per-
son would admit him into a house. " I was regarded vnih astonish-
ment and fear," he observes, " and was obliged to sit all day without
victuals in the shade of a tree ; and the night threatened to be very
uncomfortable, for the wind rose, and there was great appearance of a
heavy rain ; and the wild beasts were so very numerous in the neighbor-
hood, that I should have been xmder the necessity of climbing up a
tree, and resting among the branches. About sunset, however, as I was
preparing to pass the night in this manner, and had turned my horse
loose that he might graze at liberty, a woman returning from the labors

RK.

approached the '
ilvL' the fugitive !
indebted in my I
introduce roe to

ground, wlicre,
n called otit Geo
ith infinite pleas-
•, majestic Niger,

at Westminster,

the brink, and,
nks in prayer to
jcd ray endeavors

istinct towns, two
Niger. The king
rk had arrived on

diflTercnt quarters
, which were con-
j, so great was the
ait upward of two
!Ujg ferried over,
d striking in the

he observes, " the
ktion, and the cul-
;ogether a prospect
cted to find in the

'8 was conveyed to
river coming to see
at this intelligence,
cted to inform the
■oyal presence until
I that in the mean
e was likewise told
)fthe villages in the
, he at once set out
! found that no per-
irded Avith astonish-
sit all day without
reatened to be very
reat appearance of a
rous in the neighbor-
ly of climbing up a
pt, however, as I was
ad turned my horse
ning from the labors

NATIVE lIOSriTALITT.

109

of the field, 8to|)ped to observe me, and perceiving that I was weary
and dejected, intpiired into my situation, which I briefly explained to
her; whereupon, with looks of pfreiit compassion, she took up my Nnd«l!c
and bridle, aiul tuld me to follow her. Having conducted nie into her
hut, she lighted np a lamp, spread a mat u]>on the fioor, and told nie I
might remain there for tlie night. Finding that I was very lunigry, she said
bHu would procure mo sometiiiug to eat ; .she accordingly went out, an<l
returned in a short time with a very lino lisli, whicli, having caused to
be half-broiled upon some embers, she gave me for supjier. Tlie litcs
of hospitality being thus performed toward a stranger in distress, my
worthy benefactress, pointing to the mat, and telling me I might sleep
there without apprehension, called to the lemale part of her family, who
had stood gazing on mo all the while in fixed astonishment, to resume
their task of spinning cotton, in which they continued to employ them-
selves a great part of the night. They lightened their labor by songs,
one of whielj was comjmsed extempore, for I wsis myself the subject of
it ; it was sung by one of the young Avomen, the rest joining in a sort of
chorus. The air Avas sweet and plaintive, and the words literally trans-
lated Avere these : ' The AA'iiuls roared, and the rains fell ; the poor Avhite
man, faint and Aveary, camo and sat under our tree ; ho has no mother
to bring him milk, no Avifo to grind his corn.' Chorus : ' Let ug pity
the Avhito man, no mother has he,' «tc. Trifling as this recital may ap-
l)ear to the reader, to a person in my situation the circumstance Avas
affecting in the highest degree. I Avas so oppressed by such unex-
pected kindness that sleep fled my eyes. In the morning I presented
my compassionate landlady with tAvo of the four brass buttons which
remained on my Avaistcoat, the only recompense I could make her."

Although Mansong refused to admit the traveler into Jiis presence,
and seemed at first to neglect him, it soon appeared that his conduct did
not arise from any churlish or inhospitable feelings ; for Avhile ho per-
sisted in his refusal to see him, and signified his pleasure that he should
forthwith depart from the city, he sent him a present of five thousand
cowries, and a guide to Sansanding. Park immediately obeyed the royal
command, and learned ii-om the coni'ersation of his guide on the way,
that the king's motives for thus dismissing him without an audience were
at once prudent and liberal, since he feared that by the least show of
favor he should excite the jealousy of the Moorish inhabitants, from
whose inveterate malice he might be unable to protect him.

With his guide he proceeded to Sansanduig, Avhere he was hospitably
received by the dooty, and Avould, as the king's stranger, have enjoyed
much quiet and consideration, had he not the misfortune to meet with
some of his old enemies, the Moors, who insisted on conducting him to
the mosque, and converting him into a Mohammedan at once. How-
ever, the dooty, by exerting his authority, freed him from these fanatics,
and ordered a sheep to be killed, and part of it dressed for his supper.
"About midnight, when the Moors had left me," says Park, " he paid

110

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP MUNGO PARK.

me a visit, and with much earnestness desired me to wr.'*e him a aaphie,
(charm). 'If a Moor's saphic is good,' said this hospit .ole old man, 'a
white man's must needs be better.' I readily furnished him with one
possessed of all the virtues I could concentrate, for it contained the
Lord's Prayer. The pen with which it was written was made of a reed,
a little charcoal and gum-water made very tolerable ink, and a thin
board answered the purpose of paper."

From Sansanding he departed early in the morning, before the Moors
were stirring. The road now lay through |the woods, and the guide,
M-ho understood the dangers of the way, moved forward with the great-
est circumspection, frequently stopping and looking under the bushes.
Upon observing this. Park inquired the reason, and was told that the
lions wore very plentiful in that port of the country, and often attacked
travelers in the woods. While they were conversing on this subject,
Park discovered a giraffe at a little distance. " Shortly after this," says
he, " as Ave were crossing a large open plain, where there were a few
scattered bushes, my guide, who was a little way before me, wheeled his
horse roimd in a moment, calling out something in the Foulah language
which I did not understand. I inquired in Mandingo what he meant.
' Wara biUi biUf (a very large lion) ! said he, and made signs for me to
ride away. But my horse was too much fatigued ; so we rode slowly
past the bush from which the animal had given us the alarm. Not see-
ing any thing myself, however, I thought my guide had been mistaken,
when the Foulah suddenly put his hand to his mouth, exclaiming, ' God
preserve us,' and to my great surprise I then perceived a large red lion,
at a short distance from the bush, Avith his head couched between his
fore-paws. I expected he would instantly spring upon me, and instinct-
ively pulled my feet from my stirrups to throw myself on the ground,
that my horse might become the victim rather than myself. But it is
probable the lion was not hungry ; for he quietly suffered us to pass,
though we were fairly within his reach."

About sunset they arrived at Moodiboo, " a delightful village on the
banks of the Niger, commanding a view of the river for many miles,
both to the east and west. The small green islands, the peaceful retreat
of soniC industrious Foulahs, whose cattle were here secure from the at-
tacks of wild beasts, and the majestic breadth of the river, which is here
much larger than at Sego, render the situation one of the most enchant-
ing in the world." Park was now so worn out with fatigue and suffer-
ing, that his landlord, fearing he might die in his house, hurried him
away though he was scarcely able to walk, and his horse still less able to
carry him. In fact, they had not proceeded far before the poor beast
fell lown, and could no more be made to rise ; so that, taking off his
sad lie and bridle, our traveler with extreme reluctance abandoned him
to his fate, and began to toil along on foot after his guide. In this way
they reached Kea, a small fishing village on the Niger, where Park em-

ha
Pd

PARK.

DECIDES ON RETURNING.

Ill

wr:*e him a saphie,
pit ole old man, ' a
ilied him with one
r it contained the
vas made of a reed,
ble ink, and a thin

ig, before the Moors
ids, and the guide,
?^ard with the grea^
f \mder the bushes.
i was told that the
, and often attacked
ing on this subject,
rtly after this," says
e there were a few
fore me, wheeled his
;he Foulah language
igo what he meant,
ade signs for me to
; so we rode slowly
he alarm. Not see-
! had been mistaken,
th, exclaiming, ' God
ired a large red lion,
jouched between his
pon me, and instinct-
rself on the ground,
n myself. But it is
suflfered us to pass,

ightful village on the
iver for many miles,
(, the peaceful retreat
e secure from the at-
e river, which is here
of the most enchant-
ith fatigue and suffer-
is house, hurried him
horse still less able to
jefore the poor beast
that, taking off his
stance abandoned him
i guide. In this way
iger, where Park em-

barked in a fisherman's canoe which was going down the stream, while
the guide returned to Sego.

In this canoe he reached Moorzan, whence he was conveyed across
the river to Silla, a large town on the opposite shore. It was with great
difficulty that he here obtained admission into the strangers' room of
the dooty's house, a damp, uncomfortable place, where he had a severe
paroxysm of fever during the night. Here his resolution and energy, of
which no traveler possessed a larger share, began at length to fail. No
hope of success remained. He therefore, with extreme sorrorw and
anguish of mind, determined on returning. His own simple and manly
account of the matter can not fail to impress even the most insensible
with veneration for a degree of courage and intrepidity amounting to
heroism. " Worn down by sickness, exhausted by hunger and fatigue,
half-naked, and without any article of value by which I might procure
provisions, clothes, or lodging, I began," says Park, " to reflect seriously
on ray situation. I was now convinced by painful experience, that the
obstacles to my further progress were insurmountable. The tropical
rains had already set in with all their violence ; the rice-grounds and
swamps were already overflowed ; and, in a few days more, traveling of
eve-y kind except by water would be completely obstructed. The cow-
ries which remained of the King of Bambarra's present were not suffici-
ent to hire a canoe for any great distance ; and I had but little hopes of
subsisting by charity in a country where the Moors have such influence.
But, above all, I perceived I was advancing more and more within the
power of those merciless fanatics ; and from my reception both at Sego
and Sansanding, I was apprehensive that, in attempting to reach even
Jenne — unless under the protection of some man of consequence among
them, which I had no means of obtaining — I should sacrifice my life to
no purpose; for my discoveries would perish with me. Tli« prospect
either way was gloomy. In returning to the Gambia, a journey on foot
of many hundred miles presented itself to my contemplation, through
regions and countries unknown. Nevertheless, this seemed to me the
only alternative ; for I saw inevitable destruction in attempting to pro-
ceed to the eastward. With this conviction on my mind, I hope my
readers will acknowledge I did right in going no further. I had made
every exertion, to execute my mission in its fullest extent, which prudence
could justify. Had there been the most distant prospect of a successful
termination, neither the unavoidable hardships of the journey nor the
dangers of a second captivity should have forced me to desist. This,
however, necessity compelled me to do."

When he had come to this resolution, he thought it incumbent upon
him, before he left Silla, to collect whatever information might be within
his reach respecting the further course of the Niger, and the situation
and extent of the various kingdoms in its vicinity. Subsequent travelers
have solved the problem, the honor of explaining which was denied to
Park. Wc now know that this great river, after flowing to a consider-

11?

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF MUNOO PARK.

able distance eastward of Timbuctoo, makes a bend to the south, and,
after }>iirsuing a south-westerly course, ialls into the Atlantic Ocean on
the coast of Benin.

On the 30th of July he commenced his return westward, by the same
route through which he had reached Silla. In a few days he recov-ered
his horse, which had in some measure regained its strength, though it was
Ktill too weak to be ridden. The rainy season having now set in, the
wliole of the plain country was quickly inundated ; so that he was often
in danger of losing his way while traversing savannahs many miles in
extent, knee-deep in water. In several places he waded breast-deep
across the swamps. Tiio huts of tlie villages in which he passed the
night, being undermined or softened by the rain, often fell in ; and the
noise of their fall sometimes kept him awake, expecting that his own
might be the next. His situation was now even worse than during his
progress eastward. A report had been Avidely circulated that ho was a
spy, in consequence of which he was in some places civilly refused ad-
mittance mto the towns, in others repulsed from the gates with violence;
so that he now appeared inevitably doomed to perish with hunger.
However, when the tatal hour seemed at hand, some charitable being
always appeared with a poor but seasonable supply, such, perhaps, as a
little raw corn, which prolonged his life, and supplied him with strength
to achieve his memorable journey. "On the evening of the 15th of
August, I arrived," says Park, " at a small village called Song, the surly
inhabitants of which would not receive me, nor so much as permit me to
enter the gate ; but as lions were very numerous in this neighborhood,
and I had frequently in the course of the day seen the impression of their
feet upon the road, I resolved to stay in the vicinity of the village. Hav-
ing collected some grass for my horse, I accordingly lay down under a
tree by the gate. About ten o'clock I heard the hollow roar of a lion at
no great distance, and attempted to open the gate ; but the people from
'within told me that no person must attempt to enter without the dooty's
permission. I begged them to inform the dooty that a lion was apj^roach-
ing the village, and I hoi)ed ho would allow me to come within the gate.
I waited for an answer to this message with great anxiety ; for the lion
kept prowling round the village, and once advanced so near me that I
heard him rustling among the grass, and climbed a tree for safety.
About midnight the dooty with some of his people opened the gate, and
desired me to come in. They were convinced, they said, I was not a
Moor ; for no Moor ever waited so long at the gate of a village, without
cursing the inhabitants."

The history of this journey now becomes nothing more than a repeti-
tion of similar sufferings. Hunger, fatigue, and depression of spirits at-
tack the traveler by turns. Nothing, however, subdues his courage.
Obstacle after obstacle yields to his persevering intrepidity, and he pushes
forward with invincible ardor toward the coast. In one place, at the re-
quest of a native who had grown opulent by industrious application to

ARK.

o the south, and,
Ltlantio Ocean on

ward, by the same
lays he recovered
igth, though it was
ig now set in, the
) that he was often
ahs many miles in
waded breast-deep
lich he passed the
ten feU in ; and the
cting that his o^vn
rse than during his
lated that ho was a
3 civilly refused ad-
gates with violence;
)erish with hunger,
ne charitable being
, such, perhaps, as a
id him with strength
ling of the 15th of
alle'd Song, the surly
auch as permit me to
n this neighborhood,
he impression of their
jT of the village. Hav-
rly lay down under a
oUow roar of a lion at
; but the people from
er without the dooty's
it a lion was approach-
come within the gate,
t anxiety; fortheUon
sed so near me that I
t)ed a tree for safety,
le opened the gate, and

they B£ud, I was not a
ite of a vUlage, without

ling more than a repeti-
depression of spirits at-
r, subdues his courage,
itrepidity, and he pushes

In one place, at the re-
idustrious application to

ayij fcg g iy! » »i.w i y i| i y>(P! i p.* ff i«iw^ y »*i- .»^w !»i ' . * irf ^

!"»;

ENCOUNTER WITH ROBBERS.

113

commerce, he wrote charms for a good supper ; and, fitiding the con-
trivance productive, continued the practice next day for small presents
of various kinds. On other occasions, where superstition did not come
to his aid, humanity interposed, and snatched hun from starvation. At
Biimmakoo he was hospitably treated, even by a Moor, who, having
tiiivclcd to Rio Grande, had conversed with Christians, and conceived a
favorable idea of their character. The rains had now increased the Ni-
ger to a vast size, and rendered impassable almost every road ; but, as
our traveler's tiuances had long been exhausted, he foimd himself com-
pelled to proceed, the charity of the natives not extending so far as to
the maintaining of a stranger for several months. The ordinary roads
being obstructed by the rains, the only practicable route, wild, dreary,
and desolate, lay over sterile, rocky mountams, which, it was feared, a
horse could not pass.

Finding that a singing-man was about to proceed by this road to
Sibidooloo, Park placed himself under his guidance, and quitted Bamma-
koo. He had not proceeded far, however, before his companion, finding
that he had taken the wrong path, escaped among the rocks, and left
him to find his way as he best might. He soon arrived at a village,
where he was entertained with hospitality, and where he passed the
night. Next day, as he was quietly pursuing his course, a troop of peas-
ants presented themselves, whom he at first took for elephant-hunters,
but who very shortly proved themselves to be banditti. Pretending to
arrest him in the name of the King of the Foulabs, they commanded him
to follow them, until, having reached a dark, lonely part of a wood, one
of them exclaimed in the Mandingo language, " This place will do !" and
immediately snatched his hat from his head. " Though I was by no
means free from apprehension," says Park, " yet I was resolved to show
as few signs of fear as possible ; and therefore told them, that unless my
hat was returned to me I should proceed no further. But before I had
time to receive an answer another drew a knife, and, seizing upon a
metal button which remained upon my waistcoat, cut it off, and put it
into his pocket. Their intentions were now obvious ; and I thought that
the easier they were permitted to rob me of every thing, the less I had
to fear. I therefore allowed them to search my pockets without resist-
ance, and examine every part of my apparel, which they did with the
most scrupulous exactness. But, observing that I had one waistcoat
under another, they insisted that I should cast them both off; and at
last, to make sure work, stripped me quite naked. Even my half-boots,
though the sole of one of them was tied on to my foot with a broken bridle-
rein, were minutely inspected. While they were examining the plunder,
I begged them with great earnestness to return my pocket-compass ; but
when I pointed it out to them, as it was lying on the ground, one of the
banditti, thinking I was about to take it up, cocked his musket, and
swore he would lay me dead upon the spot if I presumed to put my hand
upon it. After this, some of them went away with my horse, and the

114

LIFE AND XRAVELS OF MUNOO PARK.

reniiiindcr stood considering whether they should leave mo quite naked,
or allow nic something to shelter me from the sun. Humanity at last
prevailed ; they returned me the worst of the two shirts and a pair of
trowsors ; and, as they went away, one of them threw hack my l»at, in
the crown of vVhich I kept my memorandums ; and this was probably
the reason why they did not wish to keep it."

This was the most terrible misfortimc that had hitherto befallen him,
and at first his mind appeared to smk under the united influence of grief
and terror. For awhile he sat in sullen dejection, half-persuaded that he
had no alternative but to lie down and perish. Presently, however, a
reliance upon Providence succeeded this extreme dejection, and his mind
gradually regained ita tone : — " I was, indeed, a stranger," he thought,
" in a strange land ; yet I was still under the protecting eye of that
Providence who has condescended to call himself the stranger's friend.
At this moment, painftd as my reflections were, the extraorduiary beauty
of a small moss in fructification irresistibly caught my eye. I mention
this to show from what triflmg circumstances the mind will sometimes
derive consolation ; for though the whole plant was not larger than the
top of one of my fingers, I could not contemplate the delicate conforma-
tion of its roots, leaves, and capsule, without admiration. Can that
being, thought I, who planted, watered, and brought to perfection, in
this obscure part of the world, a thing which appears of so small import-
ance, look with unconcern upon the situation and sufferings of creatures
formed after his own image ? Surely not ! Reflections like these would
not allow me to despair ; I started up, and, disregarding both danger and
fatigue, traveled forward, assured that relief was at hand ; and I was
not disappointed."

On arriving at Sibidooloo, Park related to the mansa, or chief of the
town, the misfortune which had befallen him. This humane and excel-
lent man, having heard him patiently to an end, took the pipe from his
mouth, and tossing up the sleeve of his coat with an indignant six, " Sit
down," said he, " you shall have every thing restored to you ; I have
sworn it." He then took the necessary measures for the recovery of the
traveler's property, and invited him to partake of his hospitable fare un-
til this should have been efiected. Aiter spending a few days at this
place, without hearing any news of his horse or other property, our trav-
eler removed to a distant village, where he remained until the whole
was discovered and restored to him, with the exception of his pocket-
compass, which had been broken to pieces. Having nothing else to be-
stow upon his hospitable landlords, he gave his horse to one, and his sad-
dle and bridle to the other : and then taking his leave, proceeded on foot
to Kamalia, where he arrived on the 16th of September. At this town,
romantically situated at the foot of a lofty mountain, he found a slave-
merchant, who, intending to descend to the coast with a small caravan
in the beginning of the dry season, offered the traveler an asylum until
he should set out. Conceivmg that it would be impossible to proceed

'ARK.

mc <i»itc naked,
Humanity at last

hirts and a pair of
w back my hat, in
thia was probably

I
herto befallen him, I
2d influence of grief \
f-persuaded that he j
•csently, however, a
Bction, and his mind
inger," ho thought,
tecting eye of that
le stranger's friend,
•xtraordmary beauty
my eye. I mention
nindwill sometimes

1 not larger than the
ae delicate conforma-
Imiration. Can that
ight to perfection, in
irsofsosmallimport-

iufl"erings of creatures

tions like these would

ding both danger and

at hand; and I was

mansa, orchiefof the
lis humane and excel-
ook the pipe from his
an incUgnant aJj, " Sit
tored to you; I have
for the recovery of the |
his hospitable fare un-
ing a few days at this
her property, our trav-
lained nntU the whole
cception of his pocket-
ing nothing else to be-
rse to one, and his sad-
jave, proceeded on foot
tember. At this town,
Rtain, he found a slave-
it with a small caravan
,raveler an asylum until
e impossible to proceed

RETURN TOWARDS THE COAST.

115

during the rains, Park accepted lils kind proposal, ami promiHed in n-
turn to give liini the price of a slave upon their arrival on the coast.
Here a fever, which had for some time niennced him, manifested itself
with great violence, and continued to torment liiin during the wliole
season of the i.nins. Ills landlord, meanwhile, exerted himself to keep
up his hoi)es, and having by some means or another obtained p«»SHession
of an English Conmion Prayer Book, he communicated the use of it to
Park, Avho was thus enabled to beguile the gloomy hours of his solitude
and sickness. At length the rains became less frequent, and the fever
abated, so that he uuuld move out and enjoy the fresh air in the fields.

*-•_ ''^>,

^t*'^i--±,-ji

K A M A :. I A.

On the 19th of April, after Park hail roniained seven months at Ka-
malia, Karfa, the slave-merchant, having collected his slaves, and com-
pleted all necessary preparations, set out toward the coast, taking the
traveler, to whom his behavior had always been marked by the greatest
kindness, along with him. Their road led them across the Jallonka
wilderness, where the sufferings of every member of the caravan, and
more particularly of the slaves, were most exquisite ; but affliction was
far from having taught them commiseration, for a fine young female
slave, fainting from fatigue, had no sooner signified her inability to go
on, than the universal cry of the caravan was, " Cut her throat, cut her
throat," By the interposition of Karfa her life was spared, but she wfii
abandoned on the road, where she was, no doubt, soon devoured by
wild beasts. At length, after a long, toilsome journey, Karfa succeeded

116

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF MUNOO PABK.

in fuKUling his promise, and conducted Park safe to Pisania, which he
reached on the 10th of June, and where the good old man was over-
whelmed with the gratitude of his guest. Park now took his passage
in an American vessel, and on arriving in the West Indies, quitted this
ship for a packet bomid for Falmouth, where ho arrived on the 2?d of
December, 1707, after an absence of two years and seven months.

Immediately on his landing, he hastened to London, where he arrived
before daylight on the morning of Christmas day. It being too early
an hour to call on his brother-in-law, Mr. Dickson, he strolled about for
some tune in the neighboring streets. At length, finding one of the
entrances into the gardens of the British Museum accidentally open, he
went in and walked about there for some time. It happened that Mr.
Dickson, who had the care of those gardens, went there early that morn-
ing on some trifling business. What must have been his emotions on
beholding, at that extraordinary time and place, the vision, as it must
at first have appeared, of his long-lost friend, the object of so many
anxious reflections, and whom he had long numbered with the dead.

He was now received with distinguished honor by the African Asso-
ciation, and the various literary men whom he met with in London. In
the mean time his travels, which the Association permitted him to pub-
lish on his own account, were announced ; and both during his stay in
London, and the visit which he paid to his friends in Scotland, all his
leisure honn were devoted to the compiling and arranging of the mate-
rials for the work. It appeared in the spring of 1790, and immediately
acquired that degree of popularity which it has ever since maintained.

Soon after the publication of his travels, which became at once ex-
ceedingly popular and profitable. Park again returned to Scotland, where,
on the 2d of August, 1790, he married one of the daughters of Mr. An-
derson, of Selkirk, with whom he had served his apprenticeship. For
the two following years he resided on the farm at Fowlshiels with his
mother and one of his brothers. He then removed to the town of Pee-
bles, where he resumed the practice of his profession, and in a short time
acquired a good share of the business of the place. His kindness and
charity greatly endeared him to the poor of the district, though he was
considered haughty and reserved by strangers, who were apt to annoy
him with their questions. He soon began to tire, however, of the ob-
scure life of a country surgeon ; the fascination of Africa was upon him,
and he longed to return to the scene of his dangers and sufferings.
When one of his relatives, a short time before his departure on his sec-
ond expedition, expostulated with him on his rashness and imprudence,
he replied that a few inglorious winters of country practice at Peebles
was a risk as great, and would tend as effectually to shorten life, as his
proposed journey. The British government twice offered him the com-
mand of an expedition to explore the interior of Australia, which he
declined. Aftier the preliminaries of peace with France had been signed,
in October, 1801, Sir Joseph Banks wrote to him informing him that the

ABK.

isania, which he
I man was over-
took his passage
tdies, quitted this
red on the 2?d of
^cn months,
where lie arrived
being too early
strolled about for
Snding one of the
identally open, he
ippened that Mr.
•0 early that mom-
3n his emotions on
vision, as it must
(bject of so many
with the dead,
r the African Asso-
ith in London. In
mittedhimto pub-
during his stay in
in Scotland, all his
mging of the mate-
9, and immediately
r since mainttuned.
)ecame at once ex-
l to Scotland, where,
lughters of Mr. An-
ipprenticcship. For
Fowlshiels with his
to the town of Pee-
, and in a short time
His kindness and
trict, though he was
I were apt to annoy
however, of the oh-
Africa was upon him,
igers and sufferings,
leparture on his sec-
ess and imprudence,
f practice at Peebles
;o shorten life, as his
offered him the com-
' Australia, which he
ance had been signed,
iforming him that the

PREPARATION FOR THE SECOND EXPEDITIOX. 117

African Assoi'i.it ion intended reviving tlioir i)rojc('t for an exploration of
the Niger, and that, in case govcnnnent should enter into the plan, he
would be reconuncnded as the most proper person to carry it into ex-
ecution. Park remained in suspense for two years, when Lord Iloliart,
who was then connected with the Colonial Department, m;ule him a
formal pro|)08al on the part of the government. He accepted at once,
and in December, 1803, left Scotland with the expectation of soon em-
barking for Africa.

On account of political changes the expedition was given up, alliT
several of the troops destined for the service had already been embarked
at Portsmouth. Park Avas informed that nothing could be done imtil
the following September, and M'as recommended to study the Arabic
language in the mean time, and to exercise liimsclf in taking astronomi-
cal observations. He employed a native of Mogador as a teacher, and
returned to Scotland, where he remained during the spring and summer
of 1 804. Sir Walter Scott Avas at that time residing near Fowlshiels,
and the traveler and author soon became friends. Scott relates that,
calling upon Park one day and not finding him at home, he walked in
search of him along the banks of the Yarrow. In a short time he fourul
him emj)loyed in plunging largo stones into the river, and attentively
watching the bubbles as they rose to the surface. On being asked why
he persevered so long in this singular amusement, Park answered : " This
was the manner in which I used to ascertain the depth of a river in
Africa, before I ventured to cross it, judging whether the attempt would
be safe by the time which the bubbles of air took to ascend."

On leaving Fowlshiels for the last time in September, 1804, Park
was extremely affected, and would not venture to trust his own feelings
or those of his family, with a formal parting. He left them, as if with
the intention of . returning, alleging that ho had particular business at
Edinburg, whence he sent them his last farewell. Scott describes, in
feeling terms, the manner of his last parting with his friend. Just be-
fore quitting Fowlshiels, Park paid him a visit and slept at his house.
The next morning, Scott accompanied him part of the way on his return,
and they rode together over the wild chain of pastoral hills which divide
the Tweed from the Yarrow. Park talked much of his new African
expedition, and mentioned his determination of gomg strMght from
Edinburg, without returning to take leave of his family. They were
then on the top of a lofty hill which overlooked the course of the Yar-
row, and the autumnal mist, which floated heavily and slowly down the
valley beneath them, presented to Scott's imagination a striking emblem
of the troubled and uncertain prospect which Park's undertaking af-
forded. He endeavored to present its dangers to his friend's mind, but
Park had a ready answer for every thing. Thus discussing the plan,
they came to a road where it had been agreed they should separate. A
small ditch divided the moor from the road : in going over it, Park's
horse stumbled, and m nriy fell. " I am afraid, Mungo, that is a bad

118

LIKE AND TRAVELS OF MUNUO PARK.

omen," sa'ul St-ott ; to wiiich Park answcrod, sniilinfj : " Freitu (oinonR)
follow tliosu who look for tlieni." Witli this provi-rbial Kiyinpr, and
afraid of a formal adiuii, lie redo away and watt s|ic>cdiiy out of Hight.

At tho ilosc of the year 1804, after much delay and Jinoertainty,
the expedition was finally detennhied on, and Park received from Lord
Camden his appoiutment as its chief conduct(»r. "For the better en-
abling you to execute this service," gays his lordship, " his majesty has
granted you tho brevet commission of captain in Africa, and has also
granted a similar commission of lieutenant to Mr. Alexjinder Anderson,
whouj you have recommended as a proper person to accompany you,
Mr. Scott has also been selected to attend you as draughtsman. You
are hereby empowered to enlist with you for this expedition any num-
ber you think proper of the garrison at Goree, not exceeding forty-
five, which the commandant of that island will bo ordered to i)laco
under your command, giving them such bounties or encouragement as
may be necessary to induce them cheerfully to join with you in the ex-
pedition."

Five thousand pounds were at the same time placed at Park's dis-
posal, and further directions given him respecting the course and line
of conduct he was expected to pursue. With these instructions Park
and his companions proceeded to Portsmouth, where they were joined
by foJir or five artificers, appointed for the service from the dock-yards.
They sailed on the 30th of January, 1805, and after touching at St.
Jago, one of the Cape do Verde Islands, to purchase asses, reached Go-
ree on the 28th of March. Double pay was oft'ered to tho soldiers
during the expedition, with a discharge on their return, and these in-
ducements were so great that the whole garrison volunteered. Thirty-
five were chosen, and placed under the command of Lieutenant Martyn
of the royal artillery corps, who liad also volunteered for the service.
The exj)edition now being organised, left Goree on the 6th of April,
the soldiers cheering loudly and joyously as they jumped into tho boats.

On arriving at Kayee, a .small town on tho Gambia River, Pafk en-
gaged a Mandingo i)rii.st, named Isaaco, who M-as also a traveling
merchant, and much accustomed to long inland journeys, to servo as
guide to his caravan. On the 27th of April, ho left Kayee, and arrived
in two days at Pisania, from whence he had set out for the interior of
Afiica nearly ten years before. Some of the practical difficulties of tho
march hiid become very apparent during this short journey, since ho
found it necessary to halt at Pisania six days, to procure additional
beasts of burden. He soon found, also, that the soldiers, whoso appear-
ance had pleased him so much at Goree, were physically inferior to tho
work required of them, while in sobriety, steadiness, and good discipline,
they were sadly deficient. Finally every thing was arranged, and they
left Pisania on tho 4th of May. The party consisted of Park, liia
brother-in-law Anderson, to whom a lieutenant's commission was given ;
liientcnant Martyn ; George Scott, draughtsman ; forty soldiers, sailors,

PARK.

r : " Freitif (omens)
t'rbiiil sayinp, anil
lily out of Might,
y and unoortainty,
received from Lord
" For the better en-
., " his majesty has
\frica, and has also
lexander Anderson,
I to accompany you.
draughtsman. You
•xpedition any num-
ot exceeding forty-
le ordered to place
ir encouragement as
with you in the ex-

laccd at Park's dis-
the course and line
'8C instructions Park
ere they were joined
from the dock-yards,
ifter touching at St.
so. asses, reached Go-
fered to the soldiers

return, and these in-
rolunteered. Thirty-
f Lieutenant Martyn
ercd for the service,
on the 6th of April,
imped into the boats,
nbia River, Park en-
A-as also a traveling
journeys, to servo as
I Kayee, and arrived
)ut for the interior of
ical diflBculties of the
ort journey, since he
to procure additional
oldiers, whose appear-
sically inferior to the
s, and good discipline,
as arranged, and they
insisted of Park, liis
lommission was given ;

forty soldiers, sailors,

AN ATTACK OF DKKS.

119

and carjientcrs, and Isaaco, the guide. Tliey had much trouble with tlic
asses, at the start ; some lay down, others kicked nff tlicir loads, and it
became necessary to increase their mnnber still further. Tlicy passed
Medina, tlie capital of the kingdom of WooUi, and advanced slowly east-
Mard — much too slowly, in tact, for the rainy season was fast ai>proacli-
ing, and Park was anxious to reach the Niger before the intervenuig
rivers should become impassable.

At Hady, a town on the interior frontier of WooUi, they were led
into a quarrel with the faranba., or chief of the town, respecting the
amount of duties to be paid by their caravan, in which, though the con-
duct of the African was rudo and peremptory, the travelers were clearly
in the wrong. A few days alter this affair the caravan had an adventure
with a new species of enemy. On the 24th of May they reached a place
which they denominated Bet's Creek, where they halted with the in-
tention of encaaiping there. "Wo had no sooner unloaded the asses at
the creek," says Park, " than some of Is.iaco's people, being in search of
honey, unfortunately disturbed a largo swarm of bees near where the
coflie had halted. The bees camo out in immense numbers, and attacked
men and beasts at the same time. Luckily, most of the asses were loose,
and galloped up the valley ; but the horses and people were very much
stung, and obliged to scamper in all directions. The firo which had been
kindled for cooking, having been deserted, spread and set fire to the
bamboos ; and our baggage liad like to have been burned. In fact, for
half an hour the bees seemed to have put an end to our journey. In
the evening, when the bees became less troublesome, and we could
venture to collect our cattle, we found that many of them were very
nmch stung and swelled about the head. Three asses were missing ;
one died in the evening and one next morning, and we were compelled
to leave one at Sibikillin ; in all six : besides which, our guide lost liis
horse, and many of the people Avere very much stung about the face
and hands."

About the middle of Juno the rains began to set in, accompanied
by violent tornadoes. The earth was quickly covered -with water. The
soldiers were aifected with vomiting, or with an irresistible inclination
to sleep. Park himself was affected in a similar manner during the
storm, and, notwithstanding that he used every exertion to keep away
heaviness, at Icigth fell asleep on the damp ground. The soldiers did
the same thing In the morning twelve of them were sick. In this
vicinity he saw many pits, from which gold was obtained in large quan-
tities by washing. As the caravan proceeded, many of the soldiers
growing delirious, or too weak to continue the march, were lefl behind
to the care of the natives; while others died on the road, or were
drowned in the rivers. Some, still more unfortunate if possible, were
lost in the woods, where they were no doubt devoured by wild beasts.
Meanwhile the natives, who imagined that the caravan contained pro-
digious wealth, hung upon their march, plundered them at every turn.

120

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF MUNGO PARK.

' f

and as often as they appeared too weak to resist, endeavored to extort
presents from them.

The condition of the men now became desperate. Day after day
some poor wretch was abandoned to his fate, some in one way, some in
another. One example of this kind may serve for the whole. "Three
miles east of the village of Koombandi," says Park, " William Alston,
one of the seamen whom I received from his majesty's ship Squirrel,
became so faint that he fell from his ass, and allowed the aas to run
away. Set him on my horse, but found he could not sit without hold-
ing him. Replaced him on the ass, but he still tumbled off. Put him
again on the horse, and made one man hold him upright while I led the
horse ; but, as he made no exertion to hold himself erect, it was impos-
sible to Iveep him on the horse, and after repeated tumbles he begged
to be left in the woods till morning. I left a loaded pistol with him,
and put some cartridges into the crown of his hat." The next day this
man came up with the company, entirely naked, having been plundered
by the natives. His health appeared to improve for some days, but he
afterward grew worse again, and died before reaching the Niger.

In crossing the "Wondu the caravan was nearly deprived of its guide
in the following manner. " Our guide, Isaaco, was very active in push-
ing the asses into the water, and shoving along the canoe ; but as he
was afraid that we could not have them all carried over in the course
of the day, he attempted to drive six of the asses across the river further
down, whtjo the water was shallower. When he had reached the middle
of the river, a crocodile rose close to him, and instantly seizing him by
the left thigh, pulled him under water. With wonderful presence of
mind he felt the head of the animal, and thrust his finger into its eyes,
on which it quitted its hold, and Isaaco attempted to reach the further
shore, calling loudly for a knife. But the crocodile returned and seized
him by the other thigh, and again pulled him under water ; he had re-
course to the same expedient, and thrust his fingers into its eyes with
such violence that it again quitted him ; when it arose, flounced about
on the surface of the water as if stupid, and then swam down the middle
of the river, Isaaco proceeded to the other side, bleeding very much."

This event retarded for several days the march o" the caravan. Be-
sides, Park himself was attacked with fever, and their provisions, more-
over, were now reduced to so low an ebb, that upon examination it was
found that no more than rice for two days rem{uned in their possession.
This deficiency was, therefore, to be immediately supplied. Two per-
sons were sent away ■with an ass to a distant village for rice, and in the
mean time Park devoted his attentions to the wounds of the guide. The
audacity of the native thieves was extraordinary. In ascending an emi-
nence two miles from Maniakono, Park himself was robbed in a very
characteristic raanner : — " As I was holding my musket carelessly in my
hand, and looking around," says he, " two of Numma's sons came up to
me ; one of them requested me to give him some snuff; at this instant

yarj

littll

redl

lon^

afrnl

«
noisj

ARK. !

eavored to extort

}. Day after day
one way, some in
whole. "Three
"William Alston.
y'8 ship Squirrel,
ed the ass to run
t sit without hold-
led off. Put him
;ht while I led the
rect, it was impos-
irables he begged
i pistol with him,
The next day this
ig been plundered
some days, but he
r the Niger,
prived of its guide
ery active in push-
canoe; but as he
over in the course
)S3 the river further
reached the middle
itly seizing him by
[iderful presence of
finger into its eyes,
to reach the further
returned and seized
' water ; he had re-
1 into its eyes with
•ose, flounced about
im down the middle
leeding very much."
)f the caravan. Be-
3ir provisions, more-
i examination it was
1 in their possession,
supplied. Two per-
t for rice, and in the
le of the guide. The
In ascending an emi-
ras robbed in a very
sket carelessly in my
ma's sons came up to
snuff; at this instant

DEATHS OP THE SOLDIERS.

121

the other (called WooHaba), coming up behind me, snatched the musket
from my hand, and ran off with it. I instantly sprung from the saddle
and followed him with my sword, calling to Mr. Anderson to ride back,
and tell some of the people to look after ray horse. Mr. Anderson got
M'ithin musket-shot of him ; but, seeing it was Numma's son, had some
doubts about shooting him, and called to me if he should fire. Luckily
I did not hear him, or I might possibly have recovered my musket at
the risk of a long palaver, and perhaps the loss of half our baggage. The
thief accordingly made his escape among the rocks ; and when I returned
to my horse, I found the other of the royal descendants had stolen ray
coat."

Their condition was now exceedingly distressing. From the 10th of
June, when the rainy season set in, the entries in Park's journal are truly
heart-rending. On the 20th of July he writes : "Francis Beedle, one of
the soldiers, was evidently dying, and having in vain attempted to carry
him over tlio river, I was forced to leave him on the west bank. In the
morning one of the soldiers crossed the bridge, and found Beedle expir-
ing. Did not stop to bury him, the sun being high ; but set out imme-
diately. About half-past ten came to Mr. Scott lying by the side of the
road, so very sick that ho could not walk. Shortly after, Mr. Martyn
laid down in the same state." On the 27th, five men were left behind ;
on the 30th, he writes : " Was under the necessity of leaving William
Allen, sick. I regretted rauch leaving this man ; he had naturally a
cheerful disposition ; and he used often to beguile the watches of the
night with the songs of our dear native land." On the 10th of August
four more men lagged behind, and were never heard of again ; on the
12th, two more, and Mr. Anderson appeared to be dying. Park halted
with him under a tree, watching his fluttering pulse, until his strength
appeared to return. He then placed him upon his own horse, and pushed
forward toward their proposed resting-place, leading the horse by the
bridle. " We had not proceeded above a mile," says Park, '* before we
heard on our left a noise very rauch like the barking of a large mastiff,
but ending in a hiss like the fuff* of a cat. I thought it must be some
large monkey ; and was observing to Mr. Anderson, * What a bouncing
fellow that must be,' when we heard another bark nearer to as, and
presently a third still nearer, accompanied with a growl. I now sus-
pected some wild beast meant to attack us, but could not conjecture of
what species it was likely to be. We had not proceeded a hundred
yards further, when, coming to an opening in the bushes, I was not a
little surprised to see three lions coming toward us. They were not bo
red as the lion I had formerly seen in Bambarra, but of a dusky color,
like that of an ass. They were very large, and came bounding ovr the
long grass, not one after another, but all abreast of each other. I was
afraid, if I alio .ed them to come too near us, and my piece should miss

* Fuff is an expressive Scotch word, applicable in its original sense to the explosive
uoise whicli a cat makes in flying at a dog.

122

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF MUNGO PARK.

fire, that we should all be devoured by them, I therefore let go the bri-
dle, and walked forward to meet them. As soon as they were within
a long shot of me, I fired at the center one. I do not think I hit him ;
but they all stopped, looked at each other, and then boimded away a few
paces, when one of them stopped and looked back at me. I was too busy
in loading my piece to observe their motions as they went away, and
wae very happy to see the last of them march slowly oif .nmong the
bushes. We had not proceeded above half a mile further when we heard
another bark and growl close to us among the busies. This was, doubt-
less, one of the lions before seen ; and I was afraid they would follow us
till dark, when they would have too many opportunities of springing on
us unawares. We however heard no more of them."

At length, from the brow of a hill. Park had once more the satisfac-
tion of beholding the Niger, rolling its immense stream along the plain.
It was the 19th of August, 1805, one hundred and five days aller starting
from Pisania. But he Avas in no mood of mind to triumph at the sight.
The majority of his companions had fallen on the way; of thirty-four sol-
diers and four caqtenters who left the Gambia, only six soldiers and one
carpenter reached the Niger. With this miserable remnant of his ongi-
nal force he descended the hill, and pitched his tents near the town of
Bambakoo. After a day or two he advanced to Marraboo to await the
answer of the King of Bambarra. On the 2d of September ho writes :
"Ever since my arrival at Marraboo I had been subject to attacks of the
dysentery ; and as I found that my strength was failing very fiist, I re-
solved to charge myself with mercury. I accordingly took calomel till
it affected my mouth to such a degree that I could not speak or sleep
for six days. The salivation put an immediate stop to the dysentery,
which had proved fatal to so many of the soldiers." On the 6th one of his
remaining men died, two others at Samee on the 24th, and yet two more
at Sansanding on the 2d of October. At Bambakoo some of the party
embarked in canoes on the Niger, while others proceeded by land to the
neighborhood of Sego, which they reached on the 19th of Septeipber.
Mansong was still King of Bambarra ; and being highly gratified with
their presents, not only gave them permission to build a boat on the Ni-
ger at whatever town they pleased, but engaged to protect, as far as his
power extended, the trade of the whites in the interior. Park selected
Sansanding as the place most eligible for building the boat, and removed
thither as quickly as possible. Here immediately on his arrival he opened
a shop, exhibiting a choice as.soitment of European goods, which sold so
well among the natives that his success excited the envy of the Jenne
people, the Moors, .and the other merchants of the place, who offered
Mansong merchandise to a much greater value than the presents made
him by Park, if he would either kill the strangers or drive them out of
the country. Mansong, however, rejected the offer. " From the 8th to
the 16th nothing of consequence occurred ; I found my shop every day
more and more crowded with customers ; and such was my run of busi-

lRK.

ire let go the bri-
they were within

think I hit him;
inded away a few
.. I was too busy
jT went away, and
ly off oraong the
er when we heard

This was, doubts
.y would follow us
cs of springing on

. more the eatisfac-
im along the plain,
days aller starting
iumph at the sight.
; of thirty-four Bol-
dx soldiers and one
umnantofhisorigi-
.3 near the town of
.rraboo to await the
jpteraber he writes :
ect to attacks of the
liling very fivst, I re-
tly took calomel till
'not speak or sleep
op to the dysentery,
DntheCthoneofhis
h, and yet two more
some of the party
ceded by land to the
19th of Septcipber.
highly gratified with
ild a boat on the Ni-
)rotect, as far as hia
ior. Park selected
16 boat, and removed
his arrival he opened
goods, which sold so
envy of the Jenne
le place, who offered
m the presents made
or drive them out of
» From the 8th to
my shop every day
was my run of busi-

LAST LETTERS AND EMBARKATION.

123

ncRs, that I was sometimes forced to employ three tellers at once to
count my cash. I turned one market-day twenty-five thousand seven
hundred and fifty-six pieces of money (cowries)."

Park now received intelligence of the death of Mr. Scott, wlio Iiad
been left behind near Bambakoo. Mansoug very soon convinced the
traveler that he understood the art of receiving presents much bettor
than that of returning them ; for upon being requested to furnish a oanoo
in which the mission, now reduced to a very small number, might em-
bark on the Niger, he sent one after another several half-rotten barks ;
two of Avhich Park, seeing no hope of getting better, was at length com-
pelled to accept, and with these he constructed what ho termed a
schooner. Shortly after this he lost his brother-in-law Anderson, upon
whose death " I felt myself," says he, " aa if left a second time lonely and
friendless amid the wilds of Africa." Dreary and perilous as was hia
position, however, he still determined to persevere. His companions
were now reduced to four. Lieutenant Martyn and three soldiers, one of
Avhom was deranged in his mind ; yet Avith this wretched remnant of a
detachment which, it must be confessed, had been thus thinned, or rather
annihilated, by his own ill management and want of foresight, ho pur-
posed following the course of the Niger to its termination, whether that
should prove to be in some great lake or inland sea, or, as he rather be-
lieved, in the Atlantic Ocean. " And this voyage," says one of his biogra-
phers, " one of the most formidable ever attempted, was to be undertaken
in a crazy and ill-appointed vessel, manned by a few negroes and a few
Europeans !"

On the 16th of November, having completed all the necessary pre-
parations for his voyage, our traveler put the finishing hand to his jour-
nal ; and in the inten-al, between that and his embarkation, which seems
to have taken place on the 19th, wrote several letters to England. His
letter to Lord Camden contained the following characteristic passage :
" I am afraid that your Lordship will be apt to consider matters aa in a
very hopeless state ; but I assure yon I am far from desponding. With
the assistance of one of the soldiers I have changed a large canoe into a
tolerably good schooner, on board of which I this day hoisted the Brit-
ish flag, and shall set sail to the east with the fixed resolution to discover
the termination of the Niger, or perish in the attempt. I have heard
nothing that I can depend on respecting the remote course of this mighty
stream ; but I am more and more inclined to think that it can end no-
where but in the sea. My dear friend Mr. Anderson, and likewise Mr.
Scott, are both dead ; but though all the Europeans who are with me
should die, and though I were myself half dead, I would still persevere;
and if I could not succeed in the object of my journey, I would at last
die on the Niger."

These letters, together with his journal, were then delivered to hia
guide, Isaaco, by whom they were conveyed to Gambia, from whence
they were transmitted to England ; after which nothing certain or au-

124

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF MUNOO PARK.

thentic can be said to have been heard either of Park or the expedition.
In 1806, however, vague accounts of the death of Park and his compan-
ions were brought to the British settlement on the coast by the native
traders from the interior ; but several years elapsed without any further
intelligence bemg obtained. At length, in 1810, Colonel Maxwe'l, gov-
ernor of Senegal, dispatched Park's guide, Isaaco, into the interior, for
the purpose of ascertaining the truth or falsehood of the reports which
prevailed, and, should they prove correct, of collecting information re-
specting the place and manner of the catastrophe.

After an absence of one year and eight months, Isaaco returned to
Senegal, and delivered to the governor a journal of his proceedings,
including a narrative which be had received from Amadi Fatouma, the
guide who had accompanied Park from Sansanding down the Niger.
Tlie particulars of Isaaco's adventures it is altogether unnecessary to
describe. lie found Amadi Fatouma at Medina, a village distant a few
hours from Sansanding. On seeing Isaaco, and hearing the name of
Park, he began to weep, and his first words were, " They are all dead."
The recollection of the melancholy transaction appeared to affect him in
an extraordinary manner, and it M'as with the utmost reluctance that he
at length consented to recall to memory an event which he seemed pe-
culiarly desirous of delivering over to oblivion. However, upon the
pressing entreaties of Isaaco, he narrated circumstantially what had
taken place. Upon leaving Sansanding, there were, he said, nine persons
in the canoe. Park, Martyn, three other white men, three slaves, and
myself as their guide and interpreter. They had proceeded but a very
little way down the river before they were pursued and attacked by the
Africans, in canoes, particularly in passing Timbuctoo, where a great
number of the natives were killed. Shortly after passing Goroumo, they
lost one white man by sickness. They were now, therefore, reduced to
eight ; but as each person had always fifteen muskets loaded and ready
for action, they were still formidable to their enemies.

As Park had laid in a considerable quantity of provisions previous to
his leaving Sansanding, he was enabled to proceed for several days with-
out stopping at any place, which is the only circumstance that can ac-
count for his passing in safety through the country of so many hostile
nations. At length, however, their wants compelled them to have some
comnninication with the shore. "We came," says Amadi Fatouma,
" near a small island, and saw some of the natives. I was sent on shore
to buy some miik. When I got among them I saw two canoes go on
board to sell fresh provisions, such as fowls, rice, etc. One of the natives
wanted to kill me, and at last he took hold of me and said I was his pris-
oner. Mr. Park, seeuig what was passing on shore, suspected the truth.
He stopped the two canoes and people, telling the latter that if they
should Idll me, or keep me prisoner on shore, he would kill them all and
carry their canoes away with him. Those on shore, suspecting Mr.
Park's intentions, sent mo off in another canoe on board. They were

PARK

k or the expedition,
irk and his compan-
coast by the native
(dthout any further
lonel Maxwe'l, gov-
to the interior, for
f the reports which
ting information rc-

i, Isaaco returned to
of his proceeduigs,
Vmadi Fatouma, the
ig down the Niger.
ther unnecessary to
village distant a few
earing the name of
' They are all dead."
sared to affect him in
St reluctance that he
which he seemed pe-
However, upon the
istantially what had
, he said, nine persons
len, three slaves, and
proceeded but a very
[ and attacked by the
ictoo, where a great
lassing Goroumo, they
therefore, reduced to
tets loaded and ready
ies.

provisions previous to
for several days with-
imstance that can ac-
try of so many hostile
ed them to have some
lays Amadi Fatouma,
. I was sent on shore
aw two canoes go on
to. One of the natives
and said I was his pris-
e, suspected the truth,
the latter that if they
rould kiU them all and
shore, suspecting Mr.
on board. They were

AMADI FATOUMA'S JOURNAL.

125

then released, after which we bought some provisions from them and
made them some presents. A short time after our departure twenty
canoes came after us from the same place. On coming near they hailed,
and said, 'Amadi Fatouma, how can you pass through our country with-
givuig us any thing ?' I mentioned what they had said to Mr. Park, and
he gave them a few grains of amber and some trinkets, and they went
back peaceably. On coming to a narrow part of the river, we saw on
the shore a great many men sittbg down ; coming nearer to them they
stood up ; we presented our muskets at tliem, which made them run off
into the interior. A little further on we came to a very difficult passage.
The rocks had barred the river, but three passages were still open be-
tween them. On coming near one of tliem we discovered the same
people agam, standing on the top of a large rock, which caused great
uneasmess to us, especially to me, and I seriously promised never to pass
there again without making considerable charitable donations to the poor.
We returned and went to a pass of less danger, where wo passed unmo-
lested.

"We came-to before Carmassee, and gave the chief one piece of baft.
We went on and anchored before Gourman. Mr. Park sent me on shore
with forty thousand cowries to buy provisions. I went and bought rice,
onions, fowls, milk, etc., and departed late in the evening. The chief
of the village sent a canoe after us to let us know of a large army en-
camped on the top of a very high mountain waiting for us, and that
we had better return or be on our guard. We immediately came to an
anchor, and spent there the rest of the day and all the night. We
started in the morning. On passing the above-mentioned monntam we
saw the army, composed of Moors, with horses and camels, but without
any fire-arms. As they said nothing to us we passed on quietly, and
entered the country of Haoussa, and came to an anchor. Mr. Park said
to me, * Now, Amadi, you are at the end of your journey ; I engaged
you to conduct me here ; you are going to leave me ; but before you go
you must give me the names of the necessaries of life, etc., in the Ian-
guage of the countries through which I am gomg to pass ;' to which I
agreed, and we spent two days together about it without landing. Dur-
ing our voyage I was the only one who had landed. We departed, and
arrived at Yaour. I was sent on shore the next morning with a musket
and a saber to carry to the chief of the village ; also with three pieces
of white baft for distribution. I went and gave the chief his present ; I
also gave one to Alhagi, one to Alhagi-biron, and the other to a person
whose name I forget ; all Marabous. The chief gave us a bullock, a
sheep, three jars of honey, and four men's loads of rice. Mr. Park gave
me seven thousand cowries, and ordered me to buy provisions, which I
did. He told me to go to the chief and give him five silver rings, some
powder and flints, and tell him that these presents were given to the king
by the white men, who were taking leave of him before they went away.
After the chief received these things, he inquired if the white men in-

126

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF MUNOO PARK.

tended to come back. Mr. Park, being infonned of this inquiry, replied
that he could not return any more. Mr. Park had paid me for my voy-
a<re before we left Sansanding. I said to him, ' I agreed to carry you
into the kingdom of Haoussa ; we are now in Haoussa. I have fulhlled
my engagement with you ; I am therefore gohig to leave you here and

'^^ On the next day Park departed, leaving the guide at the village of
Yaour, where ho was put in irons by an order from the king, from a sup-
position that he had aided the white men in defraudmg him of the cus-
tomary presents, which the chief of Yaour had in fact received, but
retained for himself. "The next morning, early," continues the guide,
"the king sent an army to a village called Boussa near the nver-side.
There is before this village a rock across the whole breadth of the river.
One part of the rock is very high ; there is a large opening in that rock
in the form of a door, which is the only passage for the water to pass
through; the tide current is here very strong. This army went and
took possession of the top of this opening. Mr. Park came there after
the army had posted itself; he nevertheless attempted to pass. Ihe
people began to attack him, throwing lances, pikes, arrows and stones.
Mr. Park defended himself for a longtime; two of his slaves at the
stern of the canoe were killed; they threw every thmg they had m the
canoe into the river, and kept tiring ; but being overpowered by num-
bers, and fatigued, and unable to keep the canoe agamst the current, and
no probability of escaping, Mr. Park took hold of one of the white men
and jumped into the water; Mr. Martin did the same, and they were
drowned in the stream in attempting to escape. The only slave remain-
ing in the boat, seeing the natives persist in thromng weapons at the
canoe without ceasing, stood up and said to them, 'Stop throwmg now,
you see nothmg in the canoe, and nobody but m.ielf; therefore cease
Take me and the canoe, but don't kill me.' They took possession of
the canoe and the man, and carried them to the fang.

"I was kept in irons three months; the fang released me, and gave
me a slave (woman). I immediately went to the fave ta^en m the
canoe, who told me in what manner Mr. Park and all of them had died
and what I have related above. I asked him if he was sure nothing had
been found m the canoe after its capture ; he said nothing remamed m
the canoe but himself and a sword-belt. I asked hmi where the sword-
belt was; he said the kmg took it, and had made a girth for his horse

\iritli it. ^'

i SuJh is the narrative of Amadi Fatouma; and the information since

obtained in the country by Captain Clappeiton corroborates ahnost

I every important circumstance which it describes. It appears, however,

I that certain books-whether printed or manuscript does not appear-
were found in Park's canoe, some of which were stiU in the possession

i of the chief of Yaour when Clapperton made his inqmries ; but the wily
African, who no doubt expected a valuable present for these rehcs,

U--^-

PARK.

HIS PROBABLK FATE.

127

f this inquiry, replied

paid me for my voy-

agreed to carry you

ussa. I have fulfilled

o leave you here and

uide at the village of

the king, from a sup-

iding him of the cus-

in fact received, but

continues the guide,

near the river-side.

! breadth of the river.

! opening in that rock

"or the water to pass

This army went and

'ark came there after

mpted to pass. The

2fl, arrows, and stones.

of his slaves at the
r thing they had in the

overpowered by num-
igainst the current, and
' one of the white men
! same, and they were
The only slave remain-
owing weapons at the
, ' Stop throwing now,
i_,jelf; theretbro cease,
ley took possession of
dng.

released me, and gave
he slave taken in the
id all of them had died,
e was sure nothing had
id nothing remained in

1 him where the sword-
le a girth for his horse

1 the information since
m corroborates almost
, It appears, however,
sript does not appear —
i still in the possession
inquiries ; but the wily
resent for these relics,

refused to deliver thorn to the traveler's messenger, and Clapperton him-
self, for some reason or another not stated, neglected to visit the chief
in person. It should be remarked, that the Africans who were ques-
tioned by CIapj)erton seemed all exceedingly desirous of exculpating
their coinitrymen, perhaps their own friends and relations, from the
charge of hu\-ing murdered Park and his companions : according to one
narrator, the canoo was caught between two rocks, where the river,
being obstructed in its course, rushed through its narrow channel with
prodigous rapidity. Here the travelers, in attempting to disembark,
were drowned in the sight of an immense multitude who had assembled
to see them pass, and were too timid to attack or assist them. On an-
other occasion, however, the same person confessed that his countrymen
did indeed discharge their arrows at the travelers, but not until they
had been fired upon from the canoe. But the sheriif of Bokhary, whose
letter was found among the MSS. of Clapperton, asserts that the inhabi-
tants of lioussa M'cnt out against the white men in great numbers, and
attacked them during three successive days ; after which Park and Mar-
tyn, who from this account Avould appear to have been the only Euro-
pean survivors, threw their papers and baggage into the water, and leap-
ing in atlcr them Avere drowned in the stream. This melancholy event
appears to have occurred between three and four months after the de-
parture of the expedition from Sansanding, or about the Istof March, 180G.

Park possessed in a high degree the qualities necessary for a success-
ful traveler: intrepidity, enthusiasm, perseverance, veracity, and pru-
dence, all of which wore admirably illustrated by his first journey. Few
men have passed through circumstances so trying, with equal nerve and
self-possession; but it is to be doubted whether these merits were
equally consiiicuous during his second expedition. Half of the men,
whose lives were sacrificed to his haste and impatience, might have given
his party sufficient strength to carry him through the territory of Boussa
and the hostile tribes beyond, and assured alike his safety and bis tri-
umph. But the blame of his failure, no doubt, rests mainly upon the
British government, through Avhose procrastination he was kept for two
years in a state of painful suspense, and finally delayed in his prepara-
tions, until the favorable season for traveling had nearly passed.

In person Park was tall, being about six feet high, and perfectly well
proportioned. His countenance and whole appearance were highly
interesting ; his frame active and robust, fitted for great exertions and
the endurance of extreme hardships. His constitution had sufiered con-
siderably from the efiects of his first journey into Africa, but seems
afterward to have been restored to its original vigor, of which his last
expedition afforded the most abundant proofs. In all the relations of
private life he appears to have been highly exemplary. To the more
gentle and amiable parts of hia character the most certain of all testimo-
nies may be found in the warm attachment of his friends, and in the fond
and aflfectionate recollections of every branch of his femily.

> \

LEWIS AND CLARKE'S

JOURNEY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.

VOYAGE UP THE MISSOURI.

On the acquisition of Louisiana, in the year 1803, the attention of tlie
government of the United States was directed toward exploring and im-
proving the new territory. Accordingly, in the summer of the same
year, an expedition was planned by President Jefferson for the purpose
of discovering the course and sources of the Missouri River, and the most
convenient water-communication thence to the Pacific Ocean. His pri-
vate secretary. Captain Meriwether Lewis, and Captjun William Clarke,
both officers of the army of the United States, were associated in the
command of this enterprise. After receiving the requisite instnictions,
Captain Lewis left the seat of government, and being joined by C.-iptain
Clarke at Louisville, proceeded to St, Louis, where they arrived in the
month of December. Their ori^al intention was to pass the winter
at La Charette, then the highest settlement on the Missouri, but the
Spanish commandant of the province, not having received an official ac-
count of its transfer to the United States, was obliged, by the general
policy of his government, to prevent strangers from passing through the
Spanish territory.

They therefore encamped at the mouth of Wood River, on the east-
em side of the Mississippi, out of his jurisdiction, where they passed the
winter in disciplining the men, and making the necessary preparations
for setting out early in the spring, before which the cession was officially
announced. The party consisted of nine young men from Kentucky,
fourteen soldiers of the United States Army who volunteered their ser%'-
ices, two French watermen, an interpreter and hunter, and a black serv-
ant belonging to Captain Clarke. AH these, except the last, were en-
listed to serve as privates during the expedition, and three sergeants
were appointed from among them by the captains. In addition to
these were engaged a corporal and six soldiers, and nine watermen to
accompany the expedition as far as the Mandan nation, in order to assist

IT*

■V

\.iS^

130 TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

in ,"UTvm- the stores, or repelling an attack, ul.ieh was most to be a,.-
. ,""^ l"ri.etweon Wno.l lliver and that tribe. The ,-rty was o e.n-
;^ bLaot-threc boats; the first wasukeeU.oatmiy.^^^^
W UK three feet of water, carrying one large squaresail and twen -
r." u^ • a deek of ten feet in the bow and stern fonned a loreca«t.c and
1^ vliile the nuddle was eovered by lockers, whUh nught be raised
; t R r u a broast-work in case of attack. This wa. accompanied
.■ w T r 1 or open boats, one of six and the other of seven oars.
! U .;:rwere at the san.c time to be led along the bank of the nv^
for the purpose of bringing home game, or huntmg, ni case ot sca.citj.

AU ^preparation; being completed, they left their encampment on
Wood river, opi-osite the mouth of the Missouri, on the 14th o Majs
18 -ud on the 10th arrived at St. Charles, situated on the north bank
of 1 :. Mils" uri, twenty-onc miles from its mouth. This was then a town
:• about our hundred and fifty inhabitants, chiefly the ^--J-^-/
"he French of Canada. Hero they remained a few ^«y« ^vmtrng for Cap-
,1 T ewis who had been detained by business at St. Louis When he
"h^ they a^ain set sail, on the afternoon of Monday the 21st, but
w:;"p;eventeribywin and rain from going more than three miles,
when thev encamped upon an island, ^ e^r,- *„ «-

Two miles above their next camp, they passed a settlement of thirty or
fortv Wes from the United States, and further on, at tljc foot of el ffs
S tmdrc!d feet high, they saw a large --ailed the T^^^^^^^^^
traders who had painted in it some images that commanded the homage
of the imirns. On the 24th they passed some difficult rapids where, be-
tween the dangers of the falling banks on the one hand, and the on-
sr^Hly 'hanging sand-bars on the other, they came near capsizing their
0^^ On the evening of the next day (25th), they stopped for the night
n a \helall village tf La Charette, about seventymilesiromthemou^^

of the river. It consisted of seven small houses, and as '"»"y P^^^/^
hes whohad fixed themselves here for the convenience of trade, and
fomed th last establishment of whites on the Missouri They were
aJaTn detained a day on the 31st at their encampment on the Grindstone
C^kCh highw'estwindandrain. Intheafternoonaboatcam^^

fr^n the'osage^River, bringing a letter from a ^--f- -" ^^^^ ^^^
(),a-e nation on the Arkansas River, which mentioned that the letter
.nnmmcing the cession of Louisiana was committed to the flames ; ha
the IndiL! would not believe that the Americans were owners of that
country and disregarded St. Louis and its supplies.
''"o?;hT5thof June they met two French trader.^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
raft from their winter quarters, eighty leagues "P f^ J^^^f^Xf
where they had caught great quantities of beaver, but had lost much oi
rhelrVlTby fires from the prairies. Soon afterward they passed Little
Ma itmiCreek which was named from a strange figure resemblmg the
S oTa man with the horns of a stag, painted on a pr^^ctmg roc^
aud probably representing some spirit or deity. On the 7tli tnty

KB.

ivas most to bo ait-
L^ party was to cin-
litly-tivc feet long,
lesail and twcnty-
uil a forecastle and
•h might bo raised
i waa accompanied
ther of Bovcn oars.

bank of tbe river
n case of scarcity,
cir encampment on
u the 14th of May,

1 on the north bank
liis was then a town

the descendants of
ays waiting for Cap-
t. Louis. When he
ondaythc 2l8t, but
•c than three miles,

ttlemcnt of thirty or
1, at the foot of cliffs
d the Tavern by the
imanded the homage
!ult rapids where, bc-
a hand, and the con-
near capsizing their
stopped for the night
miles from the mouth
d as many poor fami-
■nience of trade, and
Missouri. They* were
ent on the Grindstone
oon a boat came down
lessenger sent to the
tioned that the letter
3d to the flames ; that
i were owners of that

iders, descending on a
up the Kanzas River,
, but had lost much of
•ard they passed Little
figure resembling the
I on a projecting rock,
y. On the nh they

FIRST INDIAN COUNCILS.

181

pjMsod Big Manitoti Creek, near which was a limestone rock inlaid with
flint of v.irious colors and covered with uncouth paintings of animals, and
inscriptions. They landed to examine it, but found the place infested
with rattlesnakes, of which they killed three. Meeting two rafts from
the Sioux nation, loaded with furs and buflalo-tallow, they engaged one
of the party, a Mr. Durion, who had lived more than twenty years with the
Sioux, and was high in their confidence, to accompany them thither.

They continued to advance but slowly, their progress being greatly
impeded by the numerous rolling sandbanks, the strong current and
frequent head-winds, while the dangers of the navigation were increased
on the one hand by the sunken trees, on the other by the falling in of
the banks. They reached the Kanzas River on the 26th, and encamped
on the low point above its mouth, whore they remained two days and
made the necessary observations, recruited the party, and repaired the
boat. They reached the mouth of the Platte on the evening of July
21st, and having found, at the distance of ten miles above its junction,
a high and shaded situation, they encamped there, intending to make
the requisite obsen-ations as well as to send for the neighboring tribes,
for the purpose of making known the recent change in the government,
and the wish of the United States to ctiltivate their friendship.

Having completed the object of their stay, they set sail on the 27th,
and on the 30th again encamped to await the arrival of the Indians.
On the evening of August 2d, a band of Ott( ^ways and Missouris ap-
peared, and next morning the Indians, with their six chiefs, were assem-
bled under an awning, formed with the main-sail, in the presence of all
the party, paraded for the occasion. A speech was then made, an-
nouncing to them the change of government, with promise of protection,
and advice as to their future conduct. All the six chiefs replied, each
in turn, according to rank. They expressed their joy at the change in
the government, and their desire to be recommended to their great
father (the President), that they might obtain trade and necessaries.
They wanted arms for hunting and for defense, and asked for mediation
between them and the Mahas, with whom they were then at war. " We
promised to do so," says Captain Clarke, " and wished some of them to
accompany us to that nation, which they declined, for fear of being
killed by them. We then proceeded to distribute our presents. The
grandchief of the nation not being of the party, we sent him a flag, a
medal, and some ornaments for clothing. To the six chiefs who were
present, we gave a medal of the second grade to one Ottoway chief,
and one Missouri chief; a medal of the third grade to two inferior
chiefs of each nation — the customary mode of recognizing a chief being
to place a medal around his neck, which is considered among his tribe
as a ^roof of his consideration abroad. Each of these medals was accom-
panied by a present of paint, garters, and cloth ornaments of dress ;
and to this we added a canister of powder, a bottle of whiskey, and a
few presents to the Avhole, which appeared to make them perfectly satis-

182

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

fied. The air-gun, too, was firod, oiul astonutlicd them greatly. The
abHcnt grand chief was an Ottoway, named Wualirushhah, which in
KngliHh dcgcncratetj into Little Tliicf. Tlie two principal chieftains
present wore Shangotongo, or Big Horse, and Wcthea, or Hospitality;
also Shosguean, or White Horso, an Ottoway ; the first was an Ottoway,
the second a Missouri. The incidents juHt related induced us to give
thin place the name of the Council Bluff; the situation of it is exceed-
ingly favorable for a fort and trading factory, as the soil is well calculated
for bricks, and theiv; is an abundance of wood in tho neighborhood, and
the air being pure and healthy. The ceremonies of the council being
concluded, we set sail in the afternoon, and encamped at the distance of
five miles, where wo found tho mosquitoes very troublesome."

The small-pox had stxdly scourged the Indians of this region. The
Mahas, once a warlike and powerful people, had been wasted away by
the disease, and in their frenzy they had burned their villages ; some
had even put to death their wives and chil<1ren, probably to save them
from the affliction, and all had gone off to some better country. The
messengers of the expedition called the Indians to another council, and
they met further up the river on the 18th and 19th, when the com-
manders made speeches, and distributed medals and presents, as at
Council Bluif. Next morning tho Indians left them ; they set sail, and
soon afterward come to under some blufis on the north side of the river.
" Here," says Captain Clarke, " we had tho misfortune to lose one of
our sergeants, Charles Floyd. Ho was seized with a bilious colic, and all
our care and attention were ineffectual to relievo him. He was buried
on the top of the bluff with the honors duo to a brave soldier, and tho
place of his inteiment marked by a cedar post, on which his name and
the day of his death were inscribed. About a mile beyond this place,
to which we gave his name, is a small river about thirty yards wide, on
the north, which we called Floyd's River, where we encamped."

On the 25th of August, Captains Lewis and Clarke, with ten men,
went to see an object deemed extraordinary among all the neighboring
Indians. This was a large mound in the midst of the plain, nine miles
northward from the mouth of the Wliitestono River. " The base of the
mound is a regular parallelogram, the longest side being about three
hundred yards, the shorter sixty or seventy. From tho longest side it
rises with a steep ascent from the north and south to the height of sixty-
five or seventy feet, leaving on the top a level plain of twelve feet in
breadth and ninety in length. The north and south extremities are con-
nected by two oval borders, which serve as new bases, and divide tho
whole side into three steep but regular gradations from the plain. The
only thing characteristic in this hill is its extreme symmetry, and this,
together with its being totally detached from the other hills, which are
at the distance of eight or nine miles, would induce the belief that it
was artificial ; but, as the earth, and the loose pebblia which compose it,
are arranged exactly like the steep grounds on the borders of the creek,

KE.

ncm greatly. The
irushhuh, which in
principal chieftains
kca, or Hospitality;
■St was an Ottoway,
induced us to give
ition of it is cxceed-
oil is well calculated
neighborhood, and
. the council being
d at the distance of
iblesomo."
)f this region. The
een wasted away by
their villages; some
pobably to save them
setter country. The
another council, and
10th, when the cora-
and presents, as at
im ; they set siul, and
orth side of the river,
brtune to lose one of
a bilious colic, and all
him. He was buried
brave soldier, and the
n which his name and
lile beyond this place,
thirty yards wide, on
ve encamped."
Clarke, with ten men,
ig all the neighboring
(f the plain, nine miles
er. "The base of the
ide being about three
om the longest side it
to the height of fflxty-
plain of twelve feet m
ath extremities are con-
bases, and divide the
s from the plain. The
le symmetry, and this,
le other hills, which are
nduce the belief that it
bbka which compose it,
lie borders of the creels,

MEETING WITH THE SIOUX.

188

wo concluded from this Rimiiarity of texture that it nii^ht be natural.
But the IndinnH have made it a great article of their Hui>erHtltion. It is
called the mountain of Little People, or Little Spirits, and they believe
that it is the abode of litlle devils, in the human form, of about eighteen
inches high, and of remarkably large heads ; thoy arc armed with sliarp
arrows, with which they are very skillful, and are olwayson the watch to
kill those who have the hardihood to approach their residence. The tra-
dition is, that many have Buffered from these little evil spirits, and among
others three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to them a few years since. Thi^t
has inspired all the neighboring nations, Sioux, Mahos, and Ottoways,
with such terror that no consideration could temftt them to visit the hill.
We saw none of these wckcd little spirits, nor any place for them, ex-
cept some small holes scattered over the top. We were hap)>y enough
to escape their vengeance, though we remained some time on the mound
to enjoy the delightful prospect of the plain, which spreads itself out till
the eye rests upon the hills in the north-west at a great distance, and
those of the north-east still further on, enlivened by large herds of buffalo
feeding at a distance." As they returned they gathered delicious plums,
grapes, and blue currants, on the banks of the creek, and on reaching
their encampment set the prairies on fire, to warn the Sioux of their ap-
proach.

On the 27th, they met with a few Indians at the mouth of the James
River, Avho informed them that a large body of Sioux were encamped in
the neighborhood. Sergeant Pryor was accordingly dispatched to them
with an invitation to meet Lewis and Clarke at a spot above the river.
The latter encamped next day under Calumet Bluff, on the south side,
to await the arrival of the Sioux. The 29th was spent in repairing a
perioque that had been disabled, and other necessary occupations, when
at four o'clock in the afternoon Sergeant Pryor and his party arrived on
the opposite side, attended by five chiefs, and about seventy men and
boys. Some presents were pven, and a conference appointed for the
morrow. Sergeant Pryor reported that on reaching their village, twelve
miles distant, he was met by a party with a buffalo robe, on which they
desired to carry their visitors, an honor which they dfclined, informing
the Indians that they were not the ci ramanders of the boats. As a
great mark of respect they were then presented with a &t dog, already
cooked, of which they partook heartily, and found it well flavored. The
chiefs and warriors were received on the 30th, under a large oak-tree,
when Captan Lewis delivered a speech, with the usual odvice ond coun-
sel for their future conduct. They then acknowledged the chiefs by medals
and presents, and smoked with them the pipe of peace, after which th^
latter retired to hold a council concerning the answer which they were
to make on the morrow. The young people exercised their bows and
arrows in shooting at marks for beads, and in the evening the whole
party danced until a late hour. In the morning they met, and the chiefs
sat down in a row, with pipes of peace, highly ornamented, and all

134

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

pointed toward the seats of Captains Lewis and Clarke. Wlicn the
latter were seated, the grand chief, Wuuclia, or Shake Hand, arose and
spoke at some length, approviug what had been said, and promising to
follow the advice. He promised to make peace between the tribes then
at war, and ended by requesting material aid for their people and their
■wives. Ho was followed by the other chiefs and a warrior, who, in
shorter speeches, repeated or seconded his views. " All the^e harangues
concluded by describing the distress of the nation. They begged us to
have pity on them ; to send them traders ; that they wanted powder and
ball ; and seemed anxious that we should supply them with some of their
great father's milk, the name by which they distinguished ardent spirits.
We prevailed on Mr. Durion to remain here and accompany as many of
the Sioux chiefs as he could collect down to the seat of government."
These Indians were the Yanktous, a tribe of the great nation of Sioux.

They set forward on the 1st of September. On the 2d they passed
some extensive mounds and walls of earth, the first remains of the kind
they had an opportunity of cxaniinuig. They consisted of a citadel and
walls more than a mile in length, on the southern banks of the river,
and a circular fortress nearly opposite, on Bonhomme Island. On the
morning of September 11th they saw a man on horseback coming down
the river toward them, and were much pleased to find it was George
Shannon, one of their party, for M'hose safety they had been very uneasy.
Their two horses having strayed away on the 26th of August, lie was
sent to search for them. When he had found them he attempted to re-
join the party, but seeing some other tracks, probably those of Indians,
he concluded that they were aliead and had been for sixteen days follow-
ing the bank oi' the river before them. During the first four days he
had exhausted his bullets, and was then nearly starved, being obliged to
subsist for twelve days on a few grapes and a rabbit which he had Idlled
by making use of a hard piece of stick for a ball. One of his horses
gave out and was Icfl behind ; the other he kept as a last resource for
food. Despairing of overtaking the expedition, ho was returning, down
the river in hopes of meeting some other boat, and was on the point of
killing his horse, when he was so fortunate as to join his companions.

In another week they reached the Great Bend, and dispatched two
men with their remaining horse across the neck to hunt there, and await
their arrival. In the following night they were alarmed by the sinking
of the bank on which they were encamped. They leaped into their boats
and pushed off in time to save them, and presently the whole gi-ound
of their encampment sank also. Tliey foiined a second camp for the
rest of the night, and at daylight proceeded on to the throat of the
Great Bend. A man Avhoni they had dispatched to step off the distance
across the Bend, made it two thousand yards ; the circuit is thirty miles.
On the evening of the 24tli, they encamped near a river whicJi they
called the Teton, from a tribe inhabiting its borders. Here they raised
a flag-staff and an awning in the morning, and with all the party parading

IKE.

Clarke. Wlicn the
ikc Hand, arose and
1, and promising to
veen the tribes then
eir people and their
a warrior, who, in
All theic harangues
They begged us to
wanted powder and
m with some of their
uished ardent spirits,
company as many of
eat of government."
eat nation of Sioux,
n the 2d they passed
t remains of the kind
listed of a citadel and
I banks of the river,
nme Island. On the
rseback coming down

find it was George
bad been very uneasy,
th of August, he was
n he attempted to re-
ably those of Indians,
br sixteen days foUow-
the first four days he
,1-ved, being obliged to
)it which he had Idlled
,11. One of his horses
, as a last resource for
10 was retunnng.down
id was on the point of
ioin his compiuiionf,.
id, and dispatched two
3 hunt there, and await
ilarmed by the sinking
leaped into their boats
intly the whole ground

1 second camp for the
>n to the throat of the
to step off the distance
e circuit is thirty miles.
3ar a river whicli they
lers. Here they raised
h all the party parading

ASSAULT OF THE TETONS.

135

under arms, awaited the Indians, who had been summoned to a council.
The cliicfs and warriors from a camp two miles up the river, met them,
the speeches were delivered, and they went through tlio ceremony of
acknowledging the chiefs by giving them the usual presents, according
to rank. They then invited them on board, showed them the boat, air-
gun, and such cuilosities as might amuse them, but after giving thorn a
quarter of a glass of whiskey, it was with much difficulty that they could
get rid of them. " They at last accompanied Captain Clarke on shore
in a perioque with five men ; but it seems they had formed a design to
stop us ; for no sooner had the party landed than three of the Indians
seized the cable of the perioque, and one of the soldiers of the chief put
his arm around the mast ; the second chief, who affected intoxication,
then said that we should not go on, that they had not received presents
enough from us. Captain Clarke told liim that he would not be i)re-
vented from going on ; that we were not squaws, but warriors ; that
we were sent by our great father, who could in a moment exterminate
them. The chief replied that he, too, had warriors, and was proceeding
to offer personal violence to Captain Clarke, who immediately drew his
sword, and made a signal to the boat to prepare for action. The In-
dians who surrounded him drew their aiTows from their quivers and
were bending their bows, Avhen the swivel in the boat was instantly
pointed toward them, and twelve of our most determined men jumped
into the perioque, and joined Captain Clarke. This movement made
an impression on them, for the grand chief ordered the young men away
from the perioque, and they withdrew and held a short council with the
warriors. Behig unwilling to irritate them, Captain Clarke then went
forward and offered his hand to the first and second chiefs, who refused
to take it. He then turned from them and got into the perioque, but
had not gone more than ten paces when both the chiefs and two of the
warriors waded in after him, and he brought them on board. We then
proceeded on for a mile and anchored off a willow island, which from
the circumstances that had just occurred, we called Bad-humored
Island." Having thus inspired the Indians with fear, they desired to
cultivate their acquaintance, and accordingly on the next day they
drew up to the shore where a crowd of men, women, and children
were waiting to receive them. Captain Lewis went on shore and re-
mained several hours, and finding their disposition friendly, resolved
to remain during the night, and attend a dance which the Indians
were preparing for them. Captains Lewis and Clarke were received
on landing by ton well-dressed young men, who took them up on a
robe highly decorated, and carried them to the council-house where
they were placed on a dressed buffalo skin by the side of the grand
chief. He was surrounded by a circle of about seventy men, before
whom were placed the Spanish and American flags, and the pipe of
peace. A large fire, at which they were cooking provisions, Avas near,
and a quantity of buffalo moat, as a present. When they were seated,

!■

136

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

an old man spoke, approving what the white men had done and im-
ploring pity on their own unfortunate situation. Lewis and Clarke re-
plied with assurances of protection ; then the great chief arose and
delivered a harangue, after which with great solemnity he took some of
the most deUcate parts of the dog, which was cooked for the .estival,
and held it to the flag by way of sacrifice. This done, he held up
the pipe of peace, first pointing it upward then to the four quarters of
the globe, and then to the earth, made a short speech, lighted the pipe,
and presented it to the guests. They ate and smoked until dark,
when every thing was cleared away for the dance a large fire being
made in the center, to give light and warmth to the ball-room. The
musicians played upon a sort of tambourine and made a jmghng noiso
with a long stick to which the hoofe of deer and goats were hung;
the third instrument was a small skin bag with pebbles m it: these,
with a few singers, made up the band. The women came forward highly
decorated, some with poles bearing the scalps of their enemies, others
with guns, spears, and other trophies taken in war by their husbands
brothers, or connections. They danced toward each other till they met
in the center, when the rattles were shaken, and all shouted and re-
turned to their places. In the pauses of the dance a man of the com-
pany would come forward and recite, in a low, guttural tone, some
litt'e story or incident, either wariike or ludicrous. This was taken up
by the orchestra and dancers, who repeated it m a higher stram and
danced to it. Sometimes the women raised their voices, when the
orchestra ceased, and made a music less intolerable than the men. The
dances of the men, always separate from the women, were conducted
in ncariy the same way. The harmony of the entertainment came near
being disturbed by one of the musicians, who, thinking he had not
received a duo share of the tobacco distributed during the evening,
put himself into a passion, broke one of the drums, threw two of them
into the fire, and left the band. The drums were taken out of the
fire- a buflfalo robe held in one hand and beaten with the other, by
several of the company, suppUed the place of the lost tambourine,
and no notice was taken of the oflfensive conduct of the man Ihe
white guests retired at twelve o'clock, accompamed by four chiefs, two
of Avhom spent the night on board. , , ., , t.

While on shore they saw fifty prisoners, women and children, who
had been taken in a late battle with the Mahas, on which occasion the
Sioux had killed seventy-five men. They gave them a variety of small
articles and interceded for them with the chiefs, who promised to
restore them and Uve in peace with the Mahas. The tnbe they ^w this
dav were a part of the great Sioux nation, known by the name of Teton
Okandandaa. While with them, the travelers witnessed a quarrel b^
tween two squaws, which was suddenly stopped by the appearance of
a man, at whose approach every one seemed terrified and ran away.
He took the squaws and without any ceremony whipped them severely.

X. WH«»aW. 4MKUMB

IKE.

had done, and im-

wis and Clarke re-

|at chief arose and

ty he took some of

ed for the festival,

done, he held up

|he four quarters of

h, lighted the pipe,

smoked until dark,

, a large fire being

he ball-room. The

ade a jingling noise

goats were hung;

ebbles in it: these,

lamc forward highly

icir enemies, others

by their husbands,

I other till they met

all shouted and re-

a man of the com-

guttural tone, some

This was taken up

a higher strain and

eir voices, when the

i than the men. The

nen, were conducted

irtainment came near

binking he had not

during the evenbg,

, threw two of them

re taken out of tho

L with the other, by

the lost tambourine,

t of the man. The

i by four chiefs, two

en and children, who
n which occasion the
3m a variety of small
8, who promised to
le tribe they saw this
>y the name of Teton
;ne8scd a quarrel be-
jy the appearance of
ified and ran away,
ipped them severely.

A NEORO CURIOSITY.

187

This was an officer whose duty was to keep the peace. The whole in-
terior police of the village was confided to two or three such officers,
who were named by the chie^ and remained in power a few days, until
a successor was appointed. They were always on tho watch to keep
tranquillity during the day, and guard the camp in the night. Their
power, though of short duration, was supreme, and in the suppression of
any riot no resistance was suffered. In general they accompanied the
person of the chie^ and when ordered to any duty, however dangerous,
made it a point of honor rather to die than refuse obedience. It was
thus when they attempted to stop Lewis and Clarke on the day before.
The chief having ordered one of these men to take possession of the
boat, he immediately put his arms around the mast, and no force ex-
cept the command of the chief would have induced him to release
his hold.

They spent the next day with other Indians of the nation, who enter-
tained them m a similar manner ; but when they were preparing to set
out, some difficulties arose from a misunderstanding with the people,
either from jealousy or the hope of obtaining presents. By decided
measures and the distribution of tobacco, the natives were appeased,
and the expedition set forward on the 28th. As they sailed up the river
they were frequently accosted by Indians, who asked them to land, and
begged for tobacco and other presents, but they had no further inter-
course Avith them imtil they came in the vicinity of the Ricaras, on the
8th of October. Hero they halted a few days, visited the Indians at
their villages, and received them in council. The usual ceremonies were
here performed, speeches made, chiefs acknowledged by distinguished
presents, and curiosities exhibited to astonish the natives. " The object
that appeared to astonish the Indians most, was Captain Clarke's servant,
Tork, a remarkably stout, strong negro. They had never seen a being
of that color, and therefore flocked around him to examine the extra-
ordinary monster. By way of amusement, he told them that he had
once been a wild animal, and had been caught and tamed by his master ;
and to convince them, showeu them feats of strength, which, added to
his looks, made him more terrible than we wished him to be." *' On
our side," says Captain Clarke, " we were gratified at discovering that
these Ricaras made use of no spirituous liquors of any kind ; the examplu
of the traders who bring it to them, so far from tempting, has, in fact,
disgusted them. Supposing that it was as agreeable to them as to the
other Indians, we had at first offered them whiskey, but they refused it
with this sensible remark, that they were surprised that their father
should present to them a liquor which would make them fools."

On the 13th they continued their journey. During the day they
passed a stream to which tliey gave the name of Stone Idol Creek, for
they learned that a few miles back from the Missouri there were two
stones resembling human figures, and a third like a dog ; all which were
objects of great veneration among the Ricaras. " Their history would

%'■

188

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

adorn the ' Metamorphoses' of Ovid. A young man was deeply enamored
with a ffirl whose parents refused their consent to the marriage. The
youtli went out into the fields to mourn his misfortunes ; a sympathy
of feeling led the lady to the same spot; and the faiUiful dog would
not cease to follow his master. After wandering together and havmg
nothing but grapes to subsist on, they were at last converted mto stone,
which, begmnmg at the feet, gradually invaded the nobler parts leaving
nothing unchanged but a bunch of grapes which the female holds m
her hands unto this day." Tliese stones were sacred objects to the
llicaras, who made some propitiatory offering Avhcnever they passed them.
They saw anothcjr object of Ricara superstition on the 21st-a large
oak-tree, standing alone on the open prairie, which, having withstood
fires that had consumed every thing around, was possessed of extraor-
dinary powers in the belief of the Indians. One of their ceremonies
was to make a hole in the skin of the neck, through which a string was
passed, and the other end tied to the body of the tree ; and after re-
maining in this way for some time, they fancied they became braver.
The Ricara chief told them of a large rock in the neighborhood, on the
Chisshetaw, which was held in great veneration, and consulted by parties
for their o>™ or their nation's destinies ; these they probably found m
Bome sort of figures or paintings with which it was covered.

■WINTER AMONG THE MANDANS.

The party now approached the region of the Mandans p^scd many
of their deserted villages, and on the 24th met one of their grand
chiefs, who was on a hunting excursion. He met his enemy, the Ricara
chief, who had accompanied the expedition, with great ceremony and
apparent cordiality, and smoked with him. Tlie latter afterward went
Si the Mandans to their camp. On the 26th they encamped near the
first village of the Mandans, who came down in crowds to sec them aa
soon as they landed. Among the visitors was the son of the grand
chief, who had his two little fingers cut off at the second joints. On
inquirmg into this accident, they found it was customary to express giiet
at the death of relations by some corporeal suffering, and that the usual
mode was to lose two joints of the little fingers, or sometimes the other
fingers. On the two following days they visited several villages, and
went up the river a short distance in search of a convenient spot for a
winter fort, but the timber was too scarce and small for their purpose.
The council assembled on the 29th. A number of chiefs of the Man-
dans, the Minnetarees, and the Ahnahaways, were present. The forces
of the expedition were all paraded, and the council opened by a discharge
from the swivel of the boat. The Indians were addressed, as heretofore,
with advice intermingled with assurances of friendship and trade, and
toward the end of the speech the subject of the Ricara chief was intro-

KE.

deeply enamored

e marriage. The

mea ; a sympathy

liithful dog would

ether and having

verted into stone,

jler parts, leaving

e female holds iu

L'd objects to the

they passed them.

the 21st — a large

having withstood

sessed of extraor-

[■ their ceremonies

which a string was

ree ; and after re-

oy became braver.

ghborhood, on the

onsulted by parties

probably found iu

(vered.

lNS.

ndans, passed many
one of their grand
} enemy, the Kicara
freat ceremony and
iter afterward went
encamped near the
^ds to see them as
e son of the grand
second joints. On
lary to express grief
, and that the usual
sometimes the other
several villages, and
nvenient spot for a
1 for their purpose,
chiefs of the Man-
)resent. Tlie forces
)ened by a discharge
essed, as heretofore,
ship and trade, and
ara chief was intro-

THBY ENCAMP FOE THE WINTER.

139

duced, with whom they were recommended to make a firm peace. To
this they seemed well disposed, and smoked with him amicably. Pres-
ents were then distributed with great ceremony : one chief of each town
was acknowledged by a gift of a flag, a medal with the likeness of the
President, a uniform coat, hat, and feather ; to the second chiefs they
gave a medal representing some domestic animals and a loom ; to the
third chiefs, medals with the unpressions of a farmer sowing grain. A
variety of other presents were distributed, but none seemed to give
more satisfaction than an iron corn-mill which they gave to the Mundans.
The council was concluded by a shot from the swivel, after which the air-
gun was fired for their amusement. In the evening the prairie took fire,
either by accident or design, and burned with great fury, the whole plain
beuig enveloped in flames. So rapid was its progress, that a man and
woman were burned to death before they could reach a place of safety,
and several others were badly injured or narrowly escaped destruction.
A half-breed boy escaped unhurt in the midst of the flames, and his
safety was ascribed to the great medicine spirit, who had preserved him
on account of his being white. But a much more natural cause was the
prc-^ence of mind of his mother, who, seeing no hopes of carrying ofl'her
son, threw him on the ground, covered him with the fresh hide of a
buflalo, and then escaped herself from the flames. As soon as the fire
had passed she returned and found him imtouched, the skin having pre-
vented the flame from reaching the grass on which he lay.

On the 31st Captain Clarke had an interview with the grand chief of
the Mandans, who expressed his faith in what had been said, hoped they
would enjoy peace, and promised to send his second cliief with some
warriors to the Ricaras with their chie^ to smoke with that nation. He
added that he would go and see his great father, the President. The
chiefs of the other villages manifested the same amicable disposition, and
the Ricaree chieftain set out on his retu-n with a Mandan chief and sev-
eral Minnetaree and Mandan warriors.

Having found a suitable wintering-place three miles below, they en-
camped there, and on the 3d of November they began the building of
their cabins. Some Frenchmen who were here built a perioque to de-
scend to St. Louis, and Lewis and Clarke engaged the services of a Cana-
dian Frenchman, who had been with the Cbayenne Indians on the Black
River. Mr. Jessaume, their interpreter, also came down with his squaw
and children to live at the camp. In the evening they received a visit
from Kagohami, or Little Raven, one of the chiefs who attended the
council, whose wife accompanied him, bringing about sixty weight of
dried meat, a robe, and a pot of meal. Other Indians visited them, and
frequently brought them presents, during the building of their cabins.
These were completed and picketed by the 20th, when they moved into
them, and named the place Fort Mandan. There were five villages in
the neighborhood, the residence of three distinct nations, who had been
at the council. Captain Lewis made an excursion to them in a few days,

m in

140

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

and found them all well disposed and very kind, except a principal chief
of one of the upper villages, named Mahpahpaparapassatoo, or Homed
Weasel, who made use of the civilized indecorum of refusing to be seen,
and when Captain Lewis called he was told the chief was not at home.

They passed the winter very comfortably at the fort, finding sufficient
employment in hunting, visiting, and cultivating the friendship of the
Indians ; although in these excursions they frequently suffered from the
cold, which was sometimes very intense. On the 10th of December the
hunters saw large herds of buffalo crossing the river on the ice. The
mercury stood at 11° below zero, and the next morning it was 21° belo v.
When the party returned in the evening, many of them were frostbitten.
On the 12th the thermometer indicated 38° below zero, and at sunrise
on the 17th it was 45° below.

On Christmas day the party fired three platoons before daj , They
had told the Indians not to visit them, as it was one of their grei t medi-
cine days; so the men remained at home and amused themselves in
various ways, particularly in dancing, in which they took great pleasure.
The American flag was hobted for the first time in the fort ; the best
provisions they had were brought out, and this, with a little brandy,
enabled them to pass the day in great festivity.

On the morning of the new year, 1805, the men were permitted to
go up with their music to the first village, where they delighted the
whole tribe with their dances, particularly with the movements of one
of the Frenchmen, who danced on his head. In return they presented
the dancers with several buffalo robes and quantities of com. This at-
tention was shown to the village because they had conceived the whites
to be wanting in regard for them, and had begun to circulate invidious
comparisons between them and the northern traders ; all these, however,
they declared to Captiun Clarke, who visited them in the course of the
morning, were made in jest. The Indians likewise performed various
dances at their villages during the winter.

On the 9th of January, the mercury at 21° below zero, Captiun
Clarke, with three or four men, accompanied Kagohami and a party of
Indians to hunt. They were incommoded by snow and high winds, and
several of the Indians came back nearly frozen. Next moming the mer-
cury stood at 40° below zero, and they were uneasy for one of the men,
who was still missing. He came back, however, as they were sending
out a party in search of him, having made a fire and kept himself warm
through the night. An Indian boy came in soon after. He had slept
in the snow with no covering but his moccasins and leggings, and a but
felo robe, and had his feet frozen. A missing Indian also returned, and
although his dress was thin, and he had slept on the snow without fire,
he had not suffered the slightest inconvenience. They often had occa-
sion to observe how well the Indians endured the rigors of the season.
A more pleasing reflection occurred at seeing the warm interest which
the situation of these two persons had excited in the village. The boy

IKE.

t a principal chief

itoo, or Horned

efusing to be seen,

woa not at home.

, finding sufficient

friendship of the

y suffered from the

h of December the

ir on the ice. The

igitwas21°belov.

im were frostbitten.

ssero, and at sunrise

before daj , They
of their greit medi-
luscd themselves in
took great pleasure.
w the fort ; the best
ith a little brandy,

1 were permitted to
i they delighted the
B movements of one
etum they presented
es of com. This at-
conceived the whites
to circulate invidious
s ; all these, however,
in the course of the
se performed various

below zero, Caption
>harai and a party of
' and high winds, and
ext morning the mer-
Y for one of the men,
IS they were sending
d kept himself warm
after. He had slept
d leggings, and a buf-
m also returned, and
he snow without fire,
rhey often had occa-
rigors of the season,
warm interest which
the village. The boy

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE.

141

had been a prisoner and adopted from charity, yet the father's distress
proved that he felt for him the tenderest affection. The man was a per-
son of no distinction, yet the whole village was full of anxiety for his
safety.

Toward the middle of January nearly one half of the Mandan nation
passed down the river to hunt for several days. In these excursions,
men, women, and children, with their dogs, all leave the village together,
and after finding a spot convenient to the game, fix their tents. All the
iamily bear their part in the labor, and the game is eqiuUy divided
among the families of the tribe. On the 9th of 3Iarch the grand chief
of the Minnetarees, who was absent on their arrival, visited them. He
was received with great attention, two guns were fired in honor of his
arrival, the curiosities were shown to him, and presents bestowed upon
him. In the course of conversation he observed that some foolish
young men of his nation had told him there M-as a person among them
quite black, and he wished to know if it could be true. They assured
him that it was true, and sent for York. The chief was much surprised
at his appearance ; he examined him closely, spitting on his finger and
rubbing the skin in order to wasli off the paint ; nor was it until the
negro uncovered his head and showed his hair, that the chief could be
persuaded he was not a painted white man.

On the approach of spring, Lewis and Clarke began to make prepara-
tions for their departure. Canoes were built and hauled down to the
river, and the boats were all finally launched on the 1st of April. While
they were loading their boats on the 6th, they were visited by a number
of Mandans. They brought information of a party of Kiearas on the
other side of the river. An interpreter was sent to learn the reason of
their coming; he returned next morning with a Kicara chief, who
brought a letter from Mr. Tabeau, stating the wish of the grand chief
of the Ricaras to visit the President, and requesting permission for him-
self and four men to join the returning boat of the expedition. This
being granted, he said he was sent with ten warriors by his nation, to
arrange their settling near the Mandans and Minnetarees, whom they
wished to join ; that he considered all the neighboring nations fi-iendly,
except the Sioux, whose persecution they could no longer withstand, and
whom they hoped to repel by uniting with the tribes in this quarter.
He added, that the Ricaras intended to live in peace with all nations,
and requested Lewis and Clarke to speak in their favor with the Assini-
boin Indians. This they promised, and assured him of the President's
protection. They then gave him a medal, a certificate, and some pres-
ents, with which be deputed for the Mandan village, well satisfied with
his reception.

,v) »»

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

JOURNEY ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

1 Living made all their arrangements, they left the fort on the after-
noon of April 7th. The party now consisted of tlurty-two persons.
Besides Captains Lewis and Clarke, there were Sergeants John Ordway,
Nathaniel Pryor, and Patrick Gass. The interpreters were George
DrowTor and Toussaint Chaboneau. The wife of Chaboneau also ac-
cmpanied them .vith her young child, and they hoped she would be use-
fi.l as an interi^rctcr among the Snake Indians. She was herself one of
that tribe, but had been taken in war by the Minnetarees, by whom she
was sold as a slave to Chaboneau, who brought her up and afterward
married her. One of the Mandans like>nse embarked with them, in
order to go to the Snake Indians and obtain a peace with them lor his
countrymen. All this party, with the baggage, was stowod in six sm^
canoes and two large perioques. At the same time that they took their
departure, their barge, manned with seven soldiers, two Frenchmen, and
Mr. Gravelines as pilot, sailed for the United States, loaded with their
presents and dispatches. u u a

On the 9th they cane to a hunting party of Minnetarees, who had
prepared a park or inclosure, and were waiting the return of the ante-
lope In the region they passed through on the two foUowing days they
saw on the surface of the earth large quantities of a white substanaa
which tasted like a mixture of common salt with Glauber salts. It ap-
peared on the sides of the hills, and even on the banks of the nvers, as
well as on the sand bars. Many of the streams which came from the
foot of the hills were so strongly impregnated with this substance
that the water had an unpleasant taste and a purgative effect. On the
26th of April, at noon, they encamped at the junction of the Missouri
and Yellowstone Rivers. As the river was crooked and the wind adverse
Captain Lewis had left the boats the day before and proceeded overland
to find the Yellowstone and make chc necessary observations, sd as to
be enabled to continue the expedition without delay. He pursued his
route along the foot of the hills, which ho ascended for the distance of
eight miles. From these the wide plains, watered by the Missouri and
the Yellowstone, spread themselves before the eye, occasionaUy vaned
with the wood of the banks, enlivened by the irregular windings of the
two rivers, and animated by vast herds of buffalo, deer, elk, and ant^
lope Above the Yellowstone the hUls were higher .and rougher, and
the wild animals more numerous. A small river which they passed on
the 3d of May they called Porcupine River, from the unusual number of
porcupines near it. A quarter of a mile beyond this they passed another
on the opposite side, to which, on account of its distance ft-om the mouth
of the Missouri, they gave the name of Two-thousand-mile creek. On
the 5th Captain Clarke and a hunter met the largest brown bear they
hud ever seen. When they fired he did not attempt to attack, but fled

RKE.

JNTAlNS.

fort on tho after-
thirty-two persons,
eants John Ordway,
cters were George
Chaboneau also ac-
d she would bo use-
was herself one of
arees, by whom she
up and afterward
xked with them, in
e with them for his
i 8tow«^d in six small
that they took their
two Frenchmen, and

es, loaded with their

[innetarecs, who had
return of the ante-

following days they
of a white substanau
Slauber salts. It ap-
lanks of the rivers, as
.fhich came from the

with this substance
ativc effect. On the
stion of tho Missouri

and the wind adverse

1 proceeded over land
abservations, sd as to
lay. He pursued his
il for the distance of
I by the Missouri and
re, occasionally varied
gular windings of the
), deer, elk, and ante-
hcr and rougher, and
ivhich they passed on
he unusual number of
is they passed another
tance fi-om the mouth
isand-mile creek. On
fcst brown bear they
ipt to attack, but fled

ADVENTURE WITH A BEAR.

148

with a tremendous roar, and such was his tenacity of llfo that, although
he had five balls through his lungs, and five other wounds, he swam
more than half across tho river to a sand-bar, and survived twenty min-
utes. He weighed between five and six hundred pounds, and measured
eight feet seven inches from the nose to the extremity of the hind feet.
On the 14th six hunters attacked another which they discovered lying in
the open grounds, at a little distance from the river. Coming uiipor-
ccived upon him, four of them fired, and each lodged a bull in his body.
The furious animal sprang up and ran open-mouthed upon them. As he
approached, the two hunters, who had reserved fire, gave him two
wounds, one of which, breaking his shoulder, retarded him a moment,
but before they could reload, he was so near that they were obliged to
run to the river. Two jumped into the canoe, the other four separated,
and concealing themselves in the willows, fired as fast as each could re-
load. They struck him leveral times, but instead of weakening the
monster, each shot seeme 1 only to direct him to the himtcr, till at last
he pursued two of them so closely that they threw aside their guns and
pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular bank of twenty feet into the
river. The bear sprang after them, and was within two feet of the hind-
most M'hcn one of the hunters on shore shot him in tho head and finally
killed him. They dragged him to the shore, and found that eight balls
had passed through him in different directions. The bear being old, they
took the skin only, and rejoined the party at the camp, who had mean-
while been terrified by an accident of a different kind. This was tho
narrow escape of a canoe containing all their papers, instruments, medi-
cine, and almost every other article indispensable to the success of the
enterprise. The canoe being under sail, was struck by a sudden squall
of wind which turned her considerably. The man at the helm, instead
of putting her before the wind, luffed her up into it. The wind was so
high that it forced the brace of the squaresail out of tho hand of the
man who was attending it, and instantly upset tho canoe, which would
have been turned bottom upward but for tho resistance of the awning.
Such was the confusion on board, and the waves ran so high, that it was
half a minute before she righted, and then nearly full of water ; but by
bailing she was kept from sinking until they rowed ashore. Here they
remained until the articles were dried and repacked, and again embarked
on the afternoon of the 16th.

On Sunday, the 26th of May, after ascending the highest summits of
the hills on the north side of the river, " Captain Lewis first caught a
distant view of the Rocky Mountains, the object of all our hopes, and
the reward of all our ambition. On both sides of the river, and at no
great distance from it, the mountains followed its course ; above these,
at the distance of fifty miles from us, an irregular range of mountains
spread themselves from west to north-west from his position. To the
north of these a few elevated points, the most remarkable of which bore
north 65° west, appeared above the horizon, and as the sun shone on the

IMMMM

144

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

mows of their Rummits, he obtained a clear and satisfactory view of those
mountains which close on the Missouri the passage to the Pacific."

In the night of the 28th they were alarmed by a new sort of enemy.
A buffalo swam over from the opposite side and clambered over one of
the canoes to the shore ; then taking fright he ran full speed up the bank
toward the tires, and passed within eighteen inches of the beads of some
of the men before the sentinel could make him change his course : still
more alarmed, ho ran down between four fires and within a few inches of
the heads of a second row of men, and would have broken into the lodge
if the barking of the dog had not stopped him. He suddenly turned to
the right, and was out of sight in a moment, leaving them all in confu-
sion, every one seizing his rillo and inquiring the cause of the alarm.
On learning what had happened, they were rejoiced at sufTcring no more
injury than the damage to some guns in the canoe which the buffalo
crossed. Next day they passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty
feet high, imder which lay scattered the fragments of at least a hundred
carcases of buffaloes. They had been chased down the precipice in a
way very common on the Missouri, by which vast herds are destroyed.
The mode of hunting is, to select one of the most active young men, who
is disguised by a 'buffalo skin, with the head and cars so arranged as to
deceive the buffalo ; thus dressed he fixes himself at a convenient dis-
tance between a herd and the river precipices. Meanwhile his compan-
ions show themselves in the rear and side of the herd ; they instantly
take the alarm and rim toward the Indian decoy, who leads them on at
full speed toward the river, then suddenly securing himself in some known
crevice of the cliff, leaves the herd on the brink of the precipice. It is
then in vain for the foremost to retreat or even stop ; they are pressed
on by the hindmost rank, who, seeing no danger but from the hunters,
goad on those before them until the whole are hurled down and the
shore is strewn with their dead bodies. Sometimes in this perilous se-
duction the Indian is himself either trodden under foot by the rapid
movements of the buffaloes, or, missing his footing in the cliff, ia^ urged
down the precipice by the falling herd.

In the upper course of the Missouri, the rapidity of the current and
the numerous rocks rendered the navigation difficult, and often danger-
ous. They had frequently to depend on towing, and as the lines were
mostly of elk-skin, slender and worn, the boats sometimes narrowly es-
caped destruction, while the men on the banks suffered great hardships.
In some places the banks were slippery and the mud so adhesive that
they could not wear their moccasins ; often they had to wade in deep
water, and sometimes to walk over the sharp fragments of rocks which
bad fiillen from the hills. As they advanced, the cliffs became higher
and more abrupt. Sometimes they rose in perpendicular walls and tur-
rets, which at a distance resembled long ranges of buildings and col-
umns variously sculptured and supporting elegant galleries, while the
parapets were adorned with statuary. On a nearer approach they repre-

EE.

ctory view of those
the Pacific." '

lew sort of enemy, j
nbered over one of
Bpecd up the banlc >
the heads of Bomo
ge his oourse : still |
thin a few inches of
oken into the lodge \
suddenly turned to
them all in confu-
cause of the alarm,
at sufToring no more
B which the buffalo
hundred and twenty
f at least a hundred
n the precipice in a
lerds are destroyed,
ivc young men, ■who
Eirs BO arranged as to
at a convenient dis-
amvhile his compan-
herd ; they instantly
Iho leads them on at
liniself in some known
' the precipice. It is
op ; they are pressed
)ut from the hunters,
urled down and the
es in this perilous se-
ler foot by the rapid
g in the cliff, ist urged

ty of the current and
ult, and often danger-
md as the lines were
imetimes narrowly es-
Rered great hardships,
mud so adhesive that
had to wade in deep
jments of rocks which
} cliffs became higher
ndicular walls and tur-
of buildings and col-
it galleries, while the
ir approach they repre-

A PERILOUS SITUATION.

146

sented every form of picturesque ruins ; columns, some with pedestals
and capitals entire, others mutilated and prostrates others rising pyramid-
ally over each other until they terminated in a sharp point. These were
varied by niches, alcoves, and the customary appearances of desolated
magnificence. As they advanced there seemed to bo no end to this vis-
ionary enchantment.

On the 3d of June they encamped in the morning on a point formed
by the junction of a large river with the Missouri. Hero they were at a
loss to know which was the Ahmateahza, or Missouri, therefore they dis-
patched a party in a canoe up each of the streams, to ascertain the com-
parative body of water, and sent out companies to discover from the ris-
ing grounds the bearings of the two rivers. Meanwhile they ascended
the high grounds in the fork, whence they saw a range of lofty mount-
ains in the south-west, partially covered with snow, and far beyond them
a still higher range completely snow-clad, reaching off to the north-west,
where their glittering tops were blended with the horizon. The direc-
tion of the rivers was soon lost in the extent of the plain. On their re-
turn they found the north branch to be two hundred yards wide, and
the south three hundred and seventy-two. The characteristics of the
north fork so nearly resembled those of the Missouri, that almost all the
party believed it to be the true course, while the same circumstances in-
duced Captains Lewis and Clarke to think otherwise — that it passed
through the low grounds of the open plain in the north, and did not
come down from the mountains.

The reports of the parties were far fi*om deciding the question, there-
fore Lewis and Clarke set out on the 4th, each to ascend one of the
rivers for a day and a haltj or more, if necessary. Captain Lewis pur-
sued the north fork for two days, when finding its direction too far
northward for their route to the Pacific, he began to retrace his steps
on the afternoon of the 6th. A stonti of wind and rain which pre-
vailed, made their returning route extremely unpleasant. The surface
of the ground was saturated with water, and so slippery that it was
almost impossible to walk over the bluffs which they had passed in
ascending the river. In advancing along the side of one of these blufis,
at a narrow pass. Captain Lewis slipped, and but for a fortunate re-
covery by means of his espontoon, would have been precipitated into
the river over a precipice of about ninety feet. He had just reached a
spot, where, by the assistance of his espontoon, he could stand with toler-
able safety, when he heard a voice behind him cry out, " Good God I
captain, what shall I do ?" He turned instantly, and found it was a man
named Windsor, who had lost his foothold about the middle of the
narrow pass, and had slipped down to the very verge of the precipice,
where he lay with his right arm and leg over the brink, while with the
other arm and leg he was with difficulty holding on to keep himself
from being dashed to pieces below.

Oapt£un Lewis instantly perceived his dreadful situation, and stifling

mmm

140

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKR.

his nliirni, cnlmly told him that ho v,tw in no danger ; that he flhouM
take his kn:i\i out of hiH belt with the riglit hand, and dig a hole in the
Bide of tlie bhiff for hin right foot. With great presence of mind ho
did thiM, and then rained liim»elf on liis kneeH. Then takhig off his
moccasinH ho eunie forward on his hands and knees, hokling the knife
in one iiand and his rifle in the other, and tiius crawled to a secure spot.
The men who hnd not attempted this passage, returned and waded the
river at the foot of the bluff, where they found the water breast high.
Tims they continued down the river, sometimes in mud, sometimes up
to their arms in water, and when it became too deep to wade, they eut
foot-holds with their knives in the sides of the banks. At night they
encamped in an old Indian lodge of sticks, which affordetl them dry
shelter, and tliey slept comfortably on some willow boughs. They reach-
ed the camp on tho evening of the 8th, and found Captain Clarke and
the party very anxious for their safety. Captain Lewis, being persuaded
that this was not the main stream, nor one which it would be advisable
to ascend, gave it the name of Maria's Kiver.

Captain Clarke's party ascended the south branch. Near the camp
on the evening of the 4th, a white bear attacked one of the men, whose
gun happening to be wet, would not go off; he instantly made toward
a tree, but was so closely pursued that in climbing ho struck the bear
with his foot. The bear not being able to climb, waited till he should
be forced to come down ; and as tho rest of tho party were separated
from him by a perpendicular cliff which they could not descend, it was
not in their power to give him any assistance : but finally the bear was
frightened by their cries and firing, and released him. Next day they
followed the ri pr several miles, until Captain Clarke was satisfied it
was their true route, when they turned back and reached the camp
on the evening of the 6th, Although Lewis and Clarke were com-
pletely satisfied by their observations, all the re«t of the party were of a
contrary opinion. In order therefore that nothing might be omitted
which could prevent an error, it was agreed that one of them ' should
ascend the southern branch by land, until he reached either the falls
or the mountains. Meanwhile, to lighten their burdens, they deter-
mined to deposit here one of the perioques and all the heavy baggage
they could possibly spare from the boats.

Captain Lewis and his party set out on the 11th. As there were
many deep ravines extending back from the shore which made the
traveling difficult near the river, they sometimes left it in its windings,
but on the 13th, being fearful of passing the falls, they changed their
course toward tho river. They had proceeded thus awhile, when
their ears were greeted with the sound of falling water. Directing
their steps toward it they reached the falls at noon, having traveled
seven miles since hearing tlie sound. Captain Lewis hastened to de-
scend the steep banks, which were two hundred feet high, and seating
himself on a rock before the falls, enjoyed the sublime spectacle which

SIJI

he
hi
be

frd
sn
cc
ev

KK.

THE FALL8 OF TIIK MISSOUUI.

147

that he should

lig ft hol« in the

scnce of minil he

■n taking oft' his

holding the knilb

d to a secure spot.

It'll and waded the

..ater breast higli.

nud, sometimes up

to wade, they cut

ks. At night they

affordetl tliem dry

mghs. Tliey reach-

'aptain Clarke and

'is, being persuaded

would be advisable

ch. Near the camp
e of the men, whose
(tantly made toward
r he struck the bear
vaited till he should
party were separated
I not descend, it was

finally the bear was
him. Next day they
larke was satisfied it
[id reached the camp
id Clarke were com-
if the party were of a
ng might be omitted

one of them 'should
ached either the falls

burdens, they deter-
all the heavy baggage

11th. As there were
hore which made the
left it in its windings,
lis, they changed their
ed thus awhile, when
ling water. Directing
noon, having traveled
Lewis hastened to de-
feet high, and seating
sublime spectacle which

since the crciition had bcon lavir^hing its nmgnilictnco upon tno desert,
unknown to civilization. "The river is three hundred yards wide at
the fall, and is pressed in by j)erp('n<licular ditls which rise about one
hinidr(!d ft'ct. The fall itself is eighty feet, forming on <'>>e side an
unbroken sheet one hundred yards in length, while the rcKiaiiiing part,
which precipitates itself iu a more rapid current, is broken by inif^iilar
rocks below, and forms a splendid prospect of white foam, two thousand
feet in length. This spray is dissipated into a thousand sha])es, some-
times flying up in columns of fit\een or twenty feet, A'hich are then
oppressed by larger masses of the white foam, on all which the sim
scatters the brightest colors of the rainbow, lielow this fall the river
for three miles one continued succession of lapids and cascades, over-
hung with perpendicular bluffs, from one hundred and fitly to two
hundred feet high."

Next morning a man was dispatched to Ca])tain Clarke with an ac-
couiil of the discovery of the falls, and Captain Lewis proceeded to
examine the rapids alone. After passing a series of rapids and small
cascades he reached, at the distance of five miles, a second tiiU of nine-
teen feet. While viewing it ho heard a loud roar above, and crossing
over the point of a hill for a few hundred yards, he saw the whole Mis-
souri, here a quarter of a mile wide, precipitated in an even, uninter-
rupted sheet to the perpendicular dejrth of fifty feet, whence, dashing
against the rocky bottom, it rushes rapidly down, leaving behind it a
Bj)ray of the purest foam across the river. The scene was singularly
beautiful, without the wild, irregular sublimity of the lower falls. The
eye had scarcely been regaled with this charming prospect when, at the
distance of half a mile. Captain Lewis observed another of a similar
kind. Hastening thither he found a cascade stretching across the river
with a descent of fourteen feet, though the perpendicular pitch was only
six feet. This too in any other neighborhood would have been an ob-
ject of great magnificence, but after what he had just seen it became
of secondary interest ; his curiosity being however awakened, he de-
termined to go on, even should night overtake him, to the head of the
fallo. The river was a constant succession of rapids and small cascades,
at every one of Avhich the blufib became lower, or the bed of the river
more on a level with the plains. At the distance of two and a half miles
he arrived at another cataract of twenty-six feet, where tlie river was six
hundred yards wide. Just above this was a cascade of about five feet,
beyond which, as far as could be discerned, the velocity of the water
seemed to abate.

Captain Lewis now ascended the hill which was behind him, and saw
from its top a beautiftd plain extending firom the river to the base of the
snow-mountains in the south and south-west. Along this wide level
country the Missouri pursued its winding course, filled with water to its
even and grassy banks ; while, about four miles above, it was joined by a
large river flowing from the north-west, through a valley three miles in

ttmmm

148

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

width, and distinguished by thi timber which adorned its shores. He
then descended the hill, and directed his course toward the river falling
in from the west. He soon met a herd of at least a thousand buffaloes, and
being desirous of providing for supper, shot one of them. The animal im-
mediately began to bleed, and the Captain, who had forgotten to reload
his rifle, was intensely watching to see him fall, when he beheld a large
brown bear which was stealing upon him unperceived, and was already
Avithin twenty steps. In the first moment of surprise he lifted his rifle,
but remembering instantly that it was not charged, and that he had not
time to reload, he felt that there was no safety but in flight. It was in the
open level plain, not a bush or tree within three hundred yards, the bank
of the river sloping and not more than three feet high, so that there was
no possible mode of concealment. He therefore thought of retreating in
a quick walk, as fast as the bear advanced, toward the nearest tree ; but
as soon as he turned, the bear ran, open mouth, and at full speed upon
him. Captain Lewis ran about eighty yards, but finding that the animal
gained on him fast, it flashed on his mind that by getting into the water
to such a depth that the bear -wjould be obliged to attack him swimming,
there was still some chance of his life. He therefore turned short,
plunged into the river about waist deep, and facing about, presented the
point of his cspontoon. The bear came to the water's edge within
twenty feet of him, but as soon as ho put himself in this posture of de-
fense, he seemed frightened, and wheeling about, retreated with as much
precipitation as he had pursued. Very glad to be released fi*om this
danger, Captain Lewis returned to the shore, and observed him run with
great speed, sometimes looking back as if he expected to be pursued, till
he reached the woods. He could not conceive the cause of the sudden
alarm of the bear, but congratulating himself on his escape when he saw
his own track torn to pieces by the furious animal, he learned from the
whole adventure never to suffer his rifle to be a moment unloaded. The
river to which he directed his steps he found to be the Medicine River
of the Indians, mentioned as emptying itself into the Missouri, just above
the falls. He set out in the evening to retrace his steps to the camp,
twelve miles distant, and, after fresh encounters with wild beasts, came
late at night to his party, who were anxious for his safety.

Captain Clarke and his party arrived in the boats at the rapids on
the 15th, where they were joined next day by Captain Lewis. They
then proceeded to examine the ground for a portage, to deposit a por-
tion of their goods and baggage, and to prepare carriages for the trans'
portation of the boats with the remainder. The portage was about fif-
teen miles. The men were loaded as heavily as their strength would
permit, and the prickly pear and the sharp points of earth formed by the
buffalo during the late rains made the crossing really painful. Some
were limping from the soreness of their feet, othors scarcely able to stand
&om the heat and fatigue. They were obliged to halt and rest &e-

A.RKB.

rncd its shoves. Ho
vard the river falling |
lousand buffaloes, and i
them. The animal im- \
id forgotten to reload !
lien he beheld a large j
ivcd, and was already j
rise he lifted hia rifle, |
I, and that he had not
n flight. It was in the i
indred yards, the bank j
ligh, so that there was j
aought of retreating in ,
I the nearest tree ; but ,
nd at full speed upon I
finding that the animal \
getting into the water |
I attack him swimming, j
herefore turned short, j
ig about, presented the
e water's edge withm |
Ifin this posture of de- \
retreated with as much ;
> be released from this
. observed him run with
ected to be pursued, till j
he cause of the sudden |
his escape when he saw
lal, ho learned from the
moment unloaded. The
be the Medicine River
, the Missouri, just above
e his steps to the camp,
s with wild beasts, came
his safety.

boats at the rapids on
Y Captain Lewis. They
artage, to deposit a por-
e carriages for the trans-
he portage was about fif-
as their strength would
Its of earth formed by the
ng really painful. Some
lors scarcely able to stand
•ed to halt and rest fre-

BNTERINa THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.

149

quently, and at almost every stopping-place they would fall asleep in an
instant ; still they went on with great cheerfulness.

On the 29th, Captain Clarke, accompanied by his servant, York,
Chaboneau and his wife and child, proceeded to the falls to make further
observations. On his arrival he observed a very dark cloud rising in
the west, which threatened rain. He took sheUer in a deep ruvmc,
where some shelving rocks kept off the rain. The shower increased,
and presently a torrent of rain and hail descended. The raui fell in a
solid mass, and instantly collecting in the ravhie came rolling down ui a
dreadful current, carryhig the mud and rocks, and every thing that
opposed it. Captain Clarke fortunately saw the danger a moment be-
fore it reached them, and sprang up the steep bluff with his gun and
shot-pouch in one hand, pushing the Indian woman with her child before
liim. Her husband, too, had seized her hand, but Avas so terrified that
but for Captain Clarke they would all have been lost. So instantaneous
was the rise of the water, that before he had reached his gun and began
to ascend the bank, the water was up to his waist, and he could scarcely
get up faster than it rose, till it reached the height of fifteen feet, with
a furious current that would have swept them into the river just above
the Great Falls, down which they must inevitably have been precipitated.
He now relinquished his intention of going up the river, and returned
to the camp.

Finally, after unheard-of toil and privations, the various parties had
arrived at the camp above the falls and transported all the baggage
thither by the 1st of July. Here some days were spent in building a
boat, and calking it with a composition of charcoal, with beeswax and
buffalo-tallow, instead of tar, which they could not obtain ; but on the
9th, when it was lanched and loaded, it leaked so that they were
obliged to abandon it. Captain Clarke, with a party of workmen, then
went to some timber on the river, eight miles above, where they con-
structed some canoes. The expedition proceeded by land and by water
to join them, and on the 15th of July they embarked all their baggage
on board of eight canoes, and set out on their journey. On the 19th
they went through a grand mountain-pass, which they called the Gates
of the Rocky Mountains. For nearly six miles the rocks rise perpen-
dicularly from the water's edge to the height of nearly twelve hundred
feet. Being anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, and
fearful lest they should hear of the expedition and retreat to the mount-
ains, Captam Clarke frequently went on by land in advance. On the
25th he arrived at the three forks of the Missouri, and finding that the
north branch, though not largest, contained more water than the middle
one, and bore more to the westward, he determined to ascend it. There-
fore leaving a note for Captain Lewis, he went up the stream twenty-five
miles ; when Chaboneau being unable to proceed further, the party en-
camped, all of them much fatigued, their feet blistered, and wounded
by the prickly pear. Captain Clarke proceeded next dny to the top of

TRAVELS OP LEWIS AND CLARKE.

•i.a fnrther whence he had an extensive view of
a mountain twelve "^f /'^^^'^X Ji signs of Indians. He then re-
tho river valley upward, ^"t ^^^J^^^^f ^ss to the middle branch,
turned to Chaboneau, f '^^'^f^^^^^^,'^^^^^^ at the forks on th. 27th.
and descending it met ^'^^^^'^'^^'^^onth-e^tevn branch, w>«lch he
Captain Lewis had first arrived «^;}^« «^^^^^^^ Ri^er, in honor of the
asc'ended a short distance and n W G ^a^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ;^„,,,„,e ,, ,^
Secretary of the Treasury. He then p ^^^ encamped

other branches, whore he ^^^..^^P'^ arrived much exhausted with
on the south-west fork to ^wait hun. Hejr ^^^^ ^^^^^

fatigue, and with fever and chUls ^^^^^^^ afficult to decide which
from a spring in the heat of the day ^fji^^^^rf, ^hey were induced
of the t .0 streams was the larger, or th^^^^^^^^ ,^, „,^e of

to discontinue the name, and gave t« t ^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^

Jefferson, in honor of th. Pre«ide\of «^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^ ,^^

jector of the enterprise; anu called themia

Secretary of State. vostored by the 30th, they began to

Captain Clarke being "^'^^^^^jj^/^^, ^^ August Captain Lewis left
ascend the Jefferson River. O^.X^fau and Drewyer, to go on m
the party, with Sergeant Gass, Chaboneau, an y^ ^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^

advance in search of ^^e Shoshonee. In a few y^_^ ^^^^^^^^^^^

in the river, and findmg the ^^^^^ll to flow from an opening^m the
the other was more turbid, and seemea ^^ ^ ^^^^^

mountams, he left a note '^^^o^^^^^'J^f ^"^^e rapid branch. This he
and then contmued his course along thejnore p ^^^^^^^^.^^ ,^.

followed for more than a f-y^'^'^^^^^lr:^on. From the general
tamed an extensive view of the ««"«™f ^ ^y which it intersects
course of the southern stream as Wl as ^« jaPj^ ^^ ,^,, ..^ssed
the mountains, he decided to make ^t^^^^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^ he

over to the other branch, and d««cena«« ^^ ^^ j^^^^y

; found the party m f .^^^ks T^' ^^^^^^^ ^' ^'^ ' Vl* 7

left. They had reached the fo^j'^J" \^ ^^ ^ green pole, which the

t luckily Capt^n Lewis's note had been left on g F^^^.^^^^ ^^^^

I beavers had cut down and earned off'^^^^^^^^^^^^^ „^ .^e two branches ;

i deprived them of all ^f ^'^^^ f^st' n th^^^^^^^^ and contained as

and as the north-west fork was ™o« t^n ^hen- ^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^^.^^ ^^^ .^^

much water, they ascended It. ^^^^ Next mommg

i waters so scattered, that ^^^y P^^^^^XhXgone out in search of deer,
they had been joined by Drewye'- jho ha^ go ^^^ ^^ ^^^^^

and who informed them o^tUf^^eoife two ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^

t^r'ca^n SThtl^rS:::^ -- -y caned Wisdom

^n the nh they continued theh^3-;SnX^ ^^^Z^lZ
mediately after breakfast ^ ^^n/their kn^'acks, tW set out with a

lEE.

extensive view of
lians. He then re-
,e nxiddle branch,
forks on th*^ 27th.
branch, wiilch he
|er, in Jionor of the
le confluence of the
iote, and encamped
ich exhausted with
Irinking cold water
Jcult to decide which
i, they were induced
branch the name of
States and the pro-
h Madison, after the

0th, they began to
it Captain Lewis left
rewyer, to go on in
ys he came to forks
nd obstructed, while
om an opening in the
iv to Captain Clarke,
lid branch. This he
le mountains, he ob-
n. From the general
by which it intersects
ute. He then crossed
I the forks, where he
3 stream he had lately
on of the 5th,. but un-
green pole, which the
ote, an accident which
r of the two branches ;
tion, and contained as
tremely rapid, and its
culty. Next morning
out in search of deer,
rivers, and of Capttun
3 fork, when they met
they called Wisdom

p the Jefferson. Im-
Lewis took Drewyer,
cs, tliey set out with a
they returned, however

SNAKE INDIANS— THE DIVIDING RIDGE.

151

long they might bo separated from the party. They followed the river
by an Indian road imtil they entered the mountains next day, and came
to two nearly equal branches. Finding the best road on the right fork,
Captain Lewis concluded to follow it, and left a note to that effect for
Captain Clarke.

They had gone but a few miles on the morning of the 11th, when
they were delighted to see a man on horseback, at the distance of two
miles, coming down to meet them. On examining him with the glass,
Captain Lewis saw that he was of a different nation from any Indians
they had hitherto met. He was armed with a bow and quiver of ar-
rows ; mounted on an elegant horse, without a saddle, while a small
string attached to the under jaw answered as a bridle. Convinced that
he was a Shoshonee, and knowing how much of their success depended
on the friendly offices of that nation, Captain Lewis was anxious to ap-
proach without alarming him, and endeavor to convince him that he
was a white man. He therefore proceeded on at his usual pace. When
they were within a mile of each other t' 3 Indian suddenly stopped ;
Lewis followed his example, took his blanket from his knapsack, and hold-
ing it with both hands at the two comers, threw it above his head, and
unfolded it as he brought it to the ground, as if in the act of spreading
it. This signal is the universal sign of friendship among the Indians on
the Missouri and Rocky Mountains. As usual, Captain Lewis repeated
this signal three times ; still the Indian kept his position, and looked
with an air of suspicion on Drewyer and Shields, who were now advancing
on each side. Lewis then took from his pack some beads, a looking-glass,
and a few trinkets, which he had brought for the purpose, and advanced
unarmed toward the Indian. He remained awhile, then turned his horse
and began to move off slowly. Captain Lewis then called out " Tabba
bone .'" (" white man"), but the Indian kept his eye on Drewyer and
Shields, who were still thoughtlessly advancing, till Lewis made a signal
to them to halt. Then the Indian waited for Captain Lewis, who still
came nearer, repeating the words '* tabba bone," and holding up the trin-
kets, at the same time stripping up his sleeve to show the color of his
skin. He thus advanced within a hundred paces, but as Shields, who
had not observed the signal, was still approaching, the Indian suddenly
turned his horse, and leaping the creek, disappeared in an instant.
Though sadly disappointed. Captain Lewis determined to make some use
of the incident. He therefore set off with his men to follow the track,
hoping it might lead them to a body of the nation. They now fixed a
small flag of the United States on a pole, which was carried as a signal
of their friendly intentions, should the Indians see them approaching.
Thus pursuing their journey, they came, on the 12th, to a plain Indian
road which led directly on toward the mountain. The stream gradually
became smaller, till, after going a few miles, it had so greatly diminished
in width, that one of the men, in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on
each side of the river, thanked God that ho had lived to bestride the

152

TRAVELS OP LEWIS AND CLARKE.

Missouri. As they went along, their hopes of soon seeing the waters
of the Columbia arose ahnost to panful anxiety, when, after four mUes
from the last abrupt turn of the river, they reached a small gap formed
by the high mountains, which recede on each side, leaving room for the
Indian road. " From the foot of one of the lowest of these mountains,
which rises with a gentle ascent of about half a mUe, issues the remotest
water of the Missouri. They had now reached the hidden sources of
that river, which had never yet been seen by civilized man ; and as they
quenched their thirst at the chaste and icy fountain— as they sat down
by the brink of that little rivulet, which yielded its modest tribute to the
parent ocean— they felt themselves rewarded for all their labors and aU
their difficulties. They left reluctantly this interesting spot, and pursmng
the Indian road through the interval of the hiUs, arrived at the top of a
ridge, from which they saw high mountains, partially covered with snow,
lying still further west. The ridge on which they stood formed the di-
viding lino between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. They
followed a descent much steeper than that on the eastern side, and at
the distance of three quarters of a mile, reached a fine, bold creek of
cold water, running to the westward. They stopped to taste, for the first
time, the waters of the Columbia."

Next day, as they were purauing their journey westward through an
open, broken country, they perceived two women, a man, and two dogs
on an eminence a mile before them. The strangers seemed at first to
await them, and Captain Lewis approached, unfuriing the flag and caU-
ing " Tabba bone!'' But the females first retreated behind the biU,
and when Lewis came near the man went off also, and they had all dis-
appeared when he reached the top of the hiU. They had gone about a
mile further, when they suddenly came upon three female Indians from
whom they had been concealed untU they were within thirty paces of
each other. A young woman fled, the other two, an elderiy woman
and a little giri, seeing the strangers too near for them to escape, sat
on the ground, holding down their heads as if reconcUed to the death
which they supposed awaited them. Captain Lewis put down his rifle,
and advancing, took the woman by the hand, raised her, and repeated
the words " tabba bone !" at the same time baring his arm to prove that
he was a white man, for his hands and face had become, by exposure, as
dark as their own. She appeared at once relieved, and Captam Leww
gave them some beads, pewter mirrors, paint, and other tnnkets, as well
as to their companions, who had hastened back when called, and he
painted their cheeks with vermUion, a ceremony which among the bho-
flhonees, is emblematic of peace. Afterward, at his request, they con-
ducted the party toward the Indian camp.

In this way they had marched two mUes, when they met a troop ol
nearly sixty warriors, well mounted, riding at full speed toward them.
Captain Lewis put down his gun and went forward with the flag. Ihe
chief spoke to the women, who explained and showed exulUngly the

IMMMIMMI

ARKE.

lon seeing the waters
vhen, after four miles
d a small gap formed

leaving room for the
t of these mountains,
le, issues the remotest
he hidden sources of
zed man ; and as they
lin — as they sat doMm
1 modest tribute to the
ill their labors and all
;ing spot, and pursuing
irrived at the top of a
illy covered with snow,
' stood formed the di-
l Pacific oceans. They
e eastern side, and at

a fine, bold creek of
led to taste, for the first

J westward through an
I, a man, and two dogs
ers seemed at first to
rling the flag and call-
•eated behind the hill,
, and they had all dis-
hey had gone about a
e female Indians from
within thirty paces of
two, an elderly woman
or them to escape, sat
econciled to the death
wis put down his rifle,
aised her, and repeated
ig his arm to prove that
lecome, by exposure, as
ed, and Captain Lewis
d other trinkets, as well
ik when called, and he
which among the Sho-
t his request, they con-

3n they met a troop of

ill speed toward them.

ird with the flag. The

showed exultingly the

RECEPTION BY THE SHOSHONEES.

15S

presents they had received, and then the chief and two warriors leaped
from their horses, came up to Captain Lewis, and embraced him with
great cordiality, at the same time applying their left cheek to his, and
frequently vociferating " Ah hi e I ah hi e /" " I am much pleased ; I am
much rejoiced." The whole body of warriors now came forward, and
the men received the caresses, and the grease and paint, of their new
friends. After this fraternal embrace. Captain Lewis lighted a pipe and
offered it to the Indians, who now seated themselves in a circle around
the party. But before they accepted tiiis mark of friendship, they pulled
off their moccasins, a custom which indicates the sacred sincerity of their
professions when they smoke with a stranger, and imprecates on them-
selves the misery of going barefoot forever if they are faithless to their
words, a penalty by no means light to those who roam over the thorny
plains of their country. It is not unworthy to remark the analogy
which some of the customs of these children of the wilderness bear to
those recorded in Holy Writ. After a few pipes were smoked and some
presents distributed. Captain Lewis stated the friendly object of their
visit, and gave the flag to the chief as an emblem of peace, after which
they proceeded to the Indian camp. There a council was held, in which
the captam more fully explained the purposes of his visit, and distributed
the few articlos he had left to the wondering crowd which had assembled
to see the first white men. Here he Icaincd that an alarm had been
given, and the warriors he had met in the morning were coming down
to attack the supposed enemy.

In order to give time for the boats to reach the forks of the river,
Captain Lewis remained a while, and obtained all the information he
could collect in regard to the country. On the 14th, his men went out
vrith the Indians to hunt, but as they were unsuccessful he made a little
paste with flour, which, with some berries, formed a palatable repast.
Having secured the goodwill of the chief, he informed him of the ap-
proach of his companions, and induced him to go do\\Ti with horses to
assist in transporting their merchandise. On the morning of the 15th,
he began to feel the inconveniences of hunger, and found that his whole
stock of provisions consisted of two pounds of flour. This was divided,
and one half boiled with the berries into a sort of pudding ; and after
presenting a large share to the chief, he and his men breakfasted on the
remainder. Camcahwait, the chief, was delighted with this new dish ; he
examined the flour, and asked if it was made of roots ; the process of
preparing it was explained, and he said it was the best thmg he had
eaten for a long time. Captain Lewis now endeavored to hasten the
departure of the Indians, who, although urged by the chief, were still
reluctant, having heard tJhat he was in league with their enemies, the
Pahkees. Finally, by appearing to doubt their courage, he succeeded
in enlisting a few, with whom he smoked a pipe and set off immediately.
Their departure si)rcad a gloom over the village, yet they had not gone
far when they were joined by others, and before they had reached the

rjiaifrT^""^"™*^'

154

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

spring where they had encamped on the 12th, all the men of the nation,
and a number of the women, had overtaken them. Here they halted an
hour to let the horses graze, and at sunset encamped at the upper end

of the valley.

Next morning Captain Lewis sent two hunters ahead to procure pro-
visions, at the same time requesting Cameahwait to prevent his young
men from going out, lest by their noise they might alarm tlie game, but
this immediately revived their suspicions. They believed these men
were sent forward to apprize the enemy of their comuig, and smaU par-
ties of Indians went out on each side of the valley, under pretense of
huntin«», but in reality to watch the movements of the two men ; while
a considerable number, alarmed, went home. An hour afterward they
saw one of the spies coming back at full speed across the plam ; the chief
stopped and seemed uneasy, the rest were moved with fresh suspicions,
and Captain Lewis himself was disconcerted ; but the young Indian had
scarcely breath to say a few words as he came up, when the whole troop
dashed forward as fast as their horses could carry them; and Captain
Lewis, astonished, was borne along nearly a mUe before he learned, with
great satisfaction, that it was aU caused by the announcement that one
of the white men had killed a deer. When they reached the place
where Drewyer had thrown its intestines, they all dismounted m con-
fusion, and ran tumbling over each other like famished dogs, each tear-
ing away whatever part he could, and beginning to eat it. When the
deer was skinned Captain Lewis reserved one quarter and gave the rest
to the Indians, who devoured nearly the whole of it without cooking.
Two more deer were brought in, and these scenes repeated, until the
Indians seemed completely satisfied and in good hiunor. At length, as
they were approaching the place where they were to see the white men,
the chief placed ornaments around the necks of Lewis and his party,
evidently to disguise the white men. Seeing this, Captain Lewis, to
inspire them with confidence, put his cocked hat and feather on the head
of the chief; the men followed his example, and the change seemed very

agreeable to the Indians. , . , ,

To guard against disappointment. Captain Lewis explamed the possi-
biUty of his companions not having reached the forks, in consequence of
the difficulty of navigation ; and to the disappointment of both parties,
on coming within two mUes of the forks, no canoes were to be seen.
Uneasy lest at this moment he should be abandoned and all his hopes
of obtaining aid from the Indians destroyed, he gave the chief his gun,
teUing him that if the enemies of his nation were in the bushes he might
defend himself mth it ; that for his own part he was not afraid to die,
and thai the chief might shoot him as soon as they discovered themselves
betrayed. As they went on, Captain Lewis sent a man with an Indian
for the notes he had left, which he pretended to be from his companion,
sent forward by agreement, to let him know where the boats were ; that
they were just below the mountains, coming slowly against the current.

(EE.

men of the nation,

jHcre they halted an

at the upper end

ead to procure pro-
prevent his young
alarm tlie game, but
believed these men
miiig, and small par-
, under pretense of
he two men; while
our afterward they
j the plain ; the chief
vith fresh suspicions,
he young Indian had
fhen the whole troop
r them ; and Captain
fore he learned, with
ouncement that one
y reached the place
dismounted in con-
shed dogs, each tear-
;o eat it. When the
ter and ga^e the rest
t it without cooking,
23 repeated, until the
lunor. At length, as
to see the white men,
Lewis and his party,
lis, Captain Lewis, to
d feather on the head
B change seemed very

is explained the possi-
ks, in consequence of
nent of both parties,
(68 were to be seen,
led and all his hopes
ve the chief his gun,
I the bushes he might
raa not afraid to die,
iiscovered themselves
man with an Indian
from his companion,
the boats were ; that
f against the current.

AN INDIAN RECOGNITION.

155

The chief and the greater part of the Indians were satisfied ; they spent
the night hero, and in the morning Drewyer and an Indian were dis-
patched down the river in quest of the boats. They had been gone two
hours when a straggling Indian came in with a report that he had seen
the white men, who were only a short distance below, and were coming
on. The Indiana were all transported with joy, and the chief, in the
warmth of his satisfaction, renewed his embrace of Captain Lewis, who
was quite as much delighted as the Indians themselves.

Meanwhile the party in the boats had been ascending the multiplied
windings of the river by a slow and toilsome progress, and on the night
of the 16th were encamped only four miles, by land, below the forks,
although the distance was ten miles by water. On setting out in the morn-
ing. Captain Clarke, with Chaboneau and his wife, walked on shore, but
they had not gone more than a mile before Captain Clarke saw Saca-
jawea (Caboneau's wife) who was ahead with her husband, begin to
dance and show every mark of the most extravagant joy, turning round
to him and pointing to several Indians, whom he now S!iw advancing on
horseback, sucking her fingers at the same time, to indicate that they
were of her native tribe. As they came near he saw Drewyer among
them, dressed like an Indian, from whom he learned the situation of the
party. While the boats were making the circuit he went toward the
forks with the Indians, who sang aloud as they went along, with the
greatest appearance of delight. They soon drew near the camp, and
just as they reached it a woman made her way through the crowd, to-
ward Sacajawea, and recognizing each other they embraced with the
most tender affection. They had been companions in childhood, had
been taken prisoners in the same battle, and shared the rigors of their
captivity, till one of them had escaped from the Minnctarees. Captain
Clarke was received by the chief, who, after embracing him, conducted
him to a tent of willows, seated him on a white robe, and tied in his hair
six small shifUs resembling pearls, an ornament highly valued by these
people. The moccasins of the whole party were then taken off, and
after much ceremony the smoking began. When the conference was
opened, Sacajawea was sent for ; she came into the tent, sat down, and
was beginning to interpret, when in the person of Cameahwait she recog-
nized her brother. She instantly jumped up, and ran and embraced him,
thro vviiig over him a blanket and weeping profusely ; the chief himself
was also moved. After some conversation between them she resumed
her seat and attempted to interpret for the parties, but her new situation
seemed to overpower her, and she was frequently interrupted by her
tears. After the council was finished, the unfortunate woman learned
that all her family were dead except two brothers, one of whom was
absent, and a son of her eldest sister, a small boy, who was immediately
adopted by her.

When the canoes arrived the baggage was taken out and an awning
erected, under which a treaty was held. Here they made arrangements

156

TRAVELS OP LEWIS AND CLARKE.

with the Indians for horses in order to proceed with as little delay as
possible, promisinpf them ample remuneration for every service they
should render. The conference having ended satisfactorily, the presents
were distributed. To Caraeahwait they gave a small medal with the
likeness of I^residcnt Jefferson, and on the reverse a figure of hands
clasped with a pipe and tomahawk ; to this Avas added a uniform coat, a
shirt, a pair of scarlet leggings, a carrot of tobacco, and some small arti-
cles. Each of the other chiefs received a small medal struck during
Washington's administration, a shiit, handkerchief, leggings, a knife, and
some tobacco. Medals were also given to two young warriors, who were
promising youths and very much respected in the tribe. These honor-
ary gifts were followed by presents of paint, moccasins, awls, knives,
beads, and looking-glasses. A plentiful meal of Indian com, of which
the hull was taken off by being boiled in lye, was also distributed ; and
as it Avas the first they had ever tasted, they were very much pleased
with it. They had indeed abundant sources of surjjriso in all they saw ;
the appearance of the men, their arms, their clothing, the canoes, the
strange looks of the negro, and the sagacity of the dog ; all in turn
shared their admiration, which was raised to astonishment by a shot
from the air-gun. This operation was instantly considered as a great
medicine, by which they, as Avell as the other Indians, mean somethmg
emanating directly from the Great Spirit, or produced by his invisible
and incomprehensible agency.

Lewis and Clarke next consulted as to their future operations. The
Indians had represented that the river below them was rocky, rapid, and
so closely confined between high mountains, that it Avas impossible to
pass doAvn it, cither by land or water, to the great lake. It was there-
fore agreed that Captain Clarke should set off in the morning with eleven
men, go by the Indian camp, and leave Chaboncau and his wife to has-
ten the collection of horses, then lead his men down the river, and if he
found it navigable and the timber in sufficient quantity, begin to build
canoes. Before setting out on the 18th, they exposed a few articles to
barter for horses, and soon obtained three good ones, for which thej
gave some clothing, knives, and other small articles, the Tjjhole of which
did not cost more than tAventy dollars. A fourth was purchased by the
men for an old check shirt, a pair of old leggings, and a knife. Captain
Clarke arrived at the camp on the 20th, where he succeeded in engaging
an intelligent old man as a guide. After pursuuig his route for a few
days he began to perceive that the Indians had not exaggerated. Tlie
mountains were rocky, and so high that it seemed almost impossible to
cross them with horses ; their road lay over the sharp fragments of rocks
which had fallen from the steep cliffs, and were strewed in heaps for
miles together ; yet the horses, unshod, traveled across them as fast as
the men. These difficulties increased until on the 23d he reached a small
meadow, below which the whole current of the river beat against a solid
wall of rock perfectly inaccessible to horses. Leaving the horses and the

mmtHmm

:e.

as little delay as

rery service they

orily, the presents

1 medal with the

I figure of hauds

a uniform coat, a

1 some small arti-

dal struck during

gings, a knife, and

arriors, who were

be. These honor-

isins, awls, knives,

ian corn, of which

o distributed ; and

^'ery much pleased

ise in all thoy saw ;

ig, the canoes, the

dog; all in turn

ishment by a shot

)nsidered as a great

is, mean something

ced by his invisible

re operations. The
ras rocky, rapid, and
t was impossible to
ake. It was thero-
naoming with eleven
and his wife to has-
the river, and if ho
itity, begin to build
sed a few articles to
)nes, for which they
, the Tihole of which
:as purchased by the
nd a knife. Captain
cceeded in engaging
r his route for a few
, exaggerated. Tlio
almost impossible to
•p fragments of rocks
strewed in heaps for
cross them as fast as
td he reached a small
r beat against a solid
ig the horses and the

DREWTER'S ADVENTURE.

157

greater part of the men here, ho proceeded with his guide, clambering
over iiniaense rocks and along the sides of lofty precipices which bor-
dered the river, until at the distance of twelve miles ho reached a small
meadow. Thus far the river was one continued rapid, along which even
the empty canoes must be let down with cords, and then at the great
risk both of the canoes and the men, while the transportation of the bag-
gage over the steep mountains would have to bo done by men. Still
Captain Clarke continued his route, and at length ascended a high and
steep point of a mountain, from which the guide now pointed out Avhore
the river broke through the mountains, about twenty miles distant. The
view was terminated by a lofty mountain, which was perfectly covered with
snow. Toward this forraidablo barrier the river went directly on, and
there it was, as the guide observed, that the difficulties and dangers, of
which they had spoken, commenced. Captain Clarke was now con-
vinced of the impracticability of this route ; he therefore hastened to re-
turn, and after rejoining his men next evening they retraced their steps
to the Indian camp, where they arrived on the 26th. As game was
scarce in this region they found a precarious subsistence, and suffered
from a scarcity of food, the Indians being able to supply them with littlo
else than a pittance of fish. Theiefore, while awaiting the arrival of Cap-
tain Lewis and his party, they made all possible preparations for their
departure, especially in preparing pack-saddles for the horses which Lewis
had purchased.

Captain Lewis and his party, who were left with the Indians at the
forks of the Jefferson on the 18th, spent a few days in making ready to
transport the baggage. Saddles were made, some of the baggage was
buried, the boats sunk in the stream, and by the 24th all the prepara-
tions were made for their departure. Meanwhile the hunters had been
out as usual, but the game was so scarce that they were obliged to en-
croach on their stock of provisions. One night Drewyer returned late
with a fawn and a quantity of Indian plunder, which he had taken by
way of reprisal. While hunting in the morning, he came suddenly upon
an Indian camp, at which were an old man, three women, a young man
and a boy. As they showed no surprise he rode up to them, and turn-
ing his horse Mose to graze, sat down and began to converse M'ith them
by signs. They had just finished a repast of some roots, and in a littlo
while they collected their hor^^s and began to saddle them. Drewyer,
having rested, went to catch his horse, forgetting at the moment to take
up his rifle. He had scarcely gone more than fifty paces when the In-
dians mounted their horses, the young man snatched up the rifle, and
leaving all their baggage they set off at full speed toward the mountain
passes. Drewyer instantly pursued them. After running ten miles, the
horses of the women began to give out, and as they raised dreadful cries,
the young man slackened his pace, and began to ride round them. Drew-
yer persuaded the women that he did not mean to hurt them, and they
stopped ; and when he asked the young man for bis rifle, the only part

158

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

of the answer ho uiulerstood w;** " Palikee," tl>o name by ■which they
fjill their enemies, tho Minnctarccs. While they were thus engaged in
talking, Drcwyer watched his opportunity, and seeing the Indian off his
guard, galloped up to him and seized his rifle. The Indian struggled for
some time, but finding Drewyer too strong for him, had the pre..ence of
mind to open tho pan and let tho priming fall out ; then loosing his hold,
he gave his horse the whip and escaped at full speed, leaving tho women
at the mercy of the conqueror. Drewyer then returned, and finding
their baggage, brought it to camp with him.

From some Indians who ariived they purchased three horses, by giv-
ing for each an ax, a knife, a handkerchief, and a little paint. For a
mule they were obliged to add a second knife, a shirt, a handkerchief,
and a pair of leggings. They now loaded eleven horses and a mule,
and placing the rest on tho shoulders of the Indian women, lefl thu
camp at noon on the 24th. Tliey were all on foot except Sacajawoa, for
whom her husband had purchased a horse. An Indian had the polite-
ness to ofler Captain Lewis one of his horses to ride, which he accepted,
in order better to direct tho march of the party. On the morning of
the 20th they reached the fountain of the Missouri and passed over tho
dividing ridge, and in the evening arrived at the encampment. Here
they found a note from Captain Clarke, apprising them that there were
no liopes of a passage by water, and suggestmg the route by the north
as the most practicable. Captain Clarke joined them on the 29th, and
they resumed the purchase of horses. Tho prices had risen meanwhile,
so that one horse cost a pistol, one hundred balls, some powder, and a
knife ; another was changed for a musket ; and in this way they obtained
twenty-nine. The horses were young and vigorous, but poor, and worn
with tho roughness of the Shoshonee saddle. They were therefore anx-
ious to obtain one at least for each man, to carry the baggage, or tho
man himself, or in the last resource to serve as food ; but they were
unable to supply all.

On the 30th they loaded their horses and took leave of the Shosho-
nees, accompanied by the old guide, his four sons, and another Indian.
They descended the river by the road which Clarke had previously pur-
sued until the 1st of Septcmberyi when they turned to the north-west
across tho hills. Next day the Indians all lefl them except the guide,
and the road they were following turned eastward toward the Missouri.
They had therefore to cut their way with much difficulty up the west
branch of the creek they were following. The road led over the steep
and rocky side of tho hills, and the thickets were almost impenetrable ;
the horses frequently fell down the sides of the hills, and some gave out
exhausted with fatigue. On the 4th they crossed a high mountain, which
formed the dividing ridge between the waters of the creek they had been
ascending, and those running north and west. Every thing was frozen,
and the ground was covered with snow, which had fallen the night be-
fore. They presently came to a stream flowing westward, which they

mmtmm

IKE.

HARDSHIPS OF THK JOURNEY.

159

me by which thoy
re tlius engaged in
; the Indian off his
ndion struggled for
lad the i)re..ence of
en loosing his hold,
leaving the women
turned, and finding

hreo horses, by giv-
little pauit. For a
lirt, a handkerchief,
liorses and a mule,
ian women, left tho
xcept Sacajawea, for
lian had the polite-
, which he accepted,
On the morning of
and passed over tho
encampment. Here
hem that there were
B route by the north
cm on the 29th, and
lad risen meanwhile,
some powder, and a
liis way they obtained
I, but poor, and worn
y were therefore anx-
the baggage, or tho
food ; but they were

leave of the Shosho-
, and another Indian.
:e had previously pur-
ed to the north-west
;m except the guide,
. toward the Missouri,
difficulty up the west
ad led over the steep
almost impenetrable;
Is, and some gave out
liigh mountain, which
le creek they had been
rery thing was frozen,
d fallen the night be-
yeatward, which they

descended to its junction with .1 river from tht* east. Hero they found
a large encampment of Indians, who received them with great conlial-
ity. They smoked with them, remained a few days, exchanged presents,
and trafficked for horses. These Indians were called Ootlashoots, and
represented themselves as one band of the Tushepaws, a numerous peo-
ple residing on the head waters of tho Missouri and Columbiii Rivers.
They seemed kindly and friendly, and willingly shared the berries and
fruits which formed their only stock of provisions. Their only wealth
was their horses, which were very fine and so numerous that this party
had with them at least five hundred. To this river they gave the name
of Clarke, as they had that of Lewis to tho one they had lately left,
each from the first white man who had visited its waters. Resimiing
their journey, they came on the 9th to a large stream flowing in from
the west, where they halted a day to make observations and collect pro-
visions, as they were here to leave the river, and the mountain region
through which they had to pass was without game. Next day one of
the hunters returned with throe Indians whom he had met up the creek,
one of whom they persuaded to go with them. They ascended the course
of the creek, and after a rugged and difficult passage over the mountain,
came on the 14th to the Kooskooskee River. Their whole stock of ani-
mal food being exhausted, they killed a colt, on which they made a hearty
supper, and from this incident they gave the name of Colt-killed Creek
to a stream near by. They then left tho river and took the mountains
on the right, where the timber was fallen and the ascent so steep that
they had to wind in every direction. The horses frequently slipped,
and one, which was loaded with a desk and small trunk, rolled over and
over for forty yards till his fall was stopped by a tree. The desk was
broken, but the poor animal escaped without much injury. Provision
was also very scarce; they found only a few pheasants, and on the
17th they killed another colt. This want of provisions, the extreme
fatigue to which they were subjected, and the dreary prospect before
them, began to dispirit the men ; Captain Clarke therefore set out with six
hunters on the 1 8th, intending to go on ahead and find something for the
support of the party. The region they passed through was rugged and
barren until the 20th, when they descended the last of the Rocky Mount-
ains and reached the level country. They had proceeded a few miles on
the plain when they saw three boys, who ran and hid in the' grass. Cap-
tain Clarke, leaving his horse and gun with the men, soon relieved tho
apprehensions of the boys, and sent them forward to the village with pres-
ents of small pieces of ribbon. Presently a man came out very cau-
tiously to meet the party, and conducted them to a large tent in the vil-
lage, where all the inhabitants gathered round to view, with a mixture
of fear and pleasure, these wonderful strangers. ITiis spacious tent was
the residence of the great chief, who had gone, with all the warriors, to
attack some of their enemies to the south-west, leaving but a few men to
guard the women and children. Tliey entertained their guests with a

I ^

•.M^

JM*i

160

TRAVELS OP LEWIS AND CLARKE.

suniptiiouH («>Ji8t ; tho latter returned the kiiulneNH hy a few small pres-
ents, ami then went on with one of the cliicrs to si neoonil village, two
miles distant. Here tho party was treated with great kindness, and passed

the night.

The inhabitants of these villages called themselves Chopimnish, or
Piere«d-noso. The chief drew a chart of tho river, and explained that
a greater chief than himself, who governed this village, and was called
Twisted Hair, was now fishing at tho distance of half, a day's ride down
the river. Tho hunters not being ablo to kill any thing, Captain Clarke
bought as much dried salmon, roots, and berries as he conld obtain with
tho few articles ho chanced to have in his pockets, and having sent
them back to Captain Lewis, he went on toward the camp of tho Twist-
ed Hair. He arrived at midnight, and giving him a medal they smoked
together till ono o'clock. Tho chief seemed cheerful and sincere, and
on the next day he accompanied Captain Clarke back to tho village
where they arrived at sunset ; they then walked up to the second vil-
lage where tho main party with Captain Lewis had just arrived. Next
morning, tho 23d, the chiefs and warriors were all assembled, and Lewis
and Clarke explained to them whence they came, the objects of their
visit, and their pacific intentions toward all the Lidians. This was con-
veyed by signs, but seemed to give perfect satisfaction. They then
gave medals and additional presents to the chiefs, and delivered a flag
and handkerchief for tho grand chief on his return. They purchased a
quantity of fish, berries, and roots, and in the afternoon went on to tho
second village, where they continued their purchases.

On the 24th, they sent back Colter in search of horses lost in the
mountains, and having collected the rest, set out for the river by the
route already passed by Captain Clarke. They now felt the conse-
quences of eating heartily after their lato privations: many of them
were taken very ill ; Captain Lewis could scarcely sit on his horse, while
others had to be put on horseback, and some, from extreme weakness
and pain, were forced to lie down by the road-side for some time.- At
sunset they reached the island where they had first met the Twisted
Hair, and where some hunters had been left on the 22d. The latter
had been unsuccessful, and two of them were sick. The party en-
camped on an island a little below, and administered to the sick.

VOYAGE DOWN LEWIS AND COLUMBIA RIVERS.

Having resolved to go down to some spot suitable for building
canoes, they set out early on the 26th, and encamped five miles below,
opposite the forks of the river. But the men were so weak that several
were taken siok m coming down, the weather being oppressively hot.
Next day they prepared to make five canoes; but few of the men, how-
ever, were able to work, and some of them were taken ill. The hunt-

KMMM

MU'tn.

ARKB.

<H l»y a few Rmall pres-

!i Hooontl vilhif^o, two

it kindness, uiul poosvcl

iselves Chopunnish, or
cr, and explained that
yriilagc, and was called
lalf. a day'H ride down
thing, Captain Clarke
s ho could obtain with
sets, and having sent
ho camp of the Twist-
i a medal they smoked
eerful and sincere, and
[0 back to the village
up to the second vil-
id just arrived. Next
I assembled, and Lewis
le, the objects of their
ndians. This was con-
tisfaction. They then
1, and delivered a flag
m. They purchased a
temoon went on to tho

iSCS.

3h of horses lost in the
it for the river by the
y now felt the conse-
ations: many of them
r sit on his horse, while
•om extreme weakness
ide for some time.- At
I first met the Twisted
m the 22d. The latter
sick. The party en-
jrcd to the dck.

MBIA RIVERS.

suitable for building
nped five miles below,
re so weak that several
jeing oppressively hot.
It few of the men, how-
taken ill. The hunt-

LEWI8 RIVKR — INDIAN BATHS.

161

crs, too, returned without any game, and seriously indisposed, so that
nearly the whole party was ill. Colter returned with one of the horses
and brought half a deer, which was very nourlshuig to the invalids. At
length those first attacked began to recover, and all who were able to
work were busied at the canoes. Meanwhile it became nuccssary to dis-
pose of tho horses. They were therefore collected to tho number of
thirty-eight, and being branded and marked, were delivered to three
Indians, tho brothers and son of a chief who was going with them down
tho river, who, having each received a knife and some small articles,
agreed to take good care of the horses till the return of the expedition.
The saddles wore buried near the river, and with thom a canister of
powder and a bag of balls.

On Monday, the 7th of October, the canoes were lanchcd and
loaded, the oars fixed, and every preparation made for setting out, but
when all was ready, the two chiefs who had promised to accompany
them were not to be found, and at the same time they missed a pi[)e-
tomahawk. They therefore proceeded ■vinthout them. IJelow the forks
tho river was called the Kooskooskee ; it was a clear, rajjid stream, with
a number of shoals and diflicult places. Tliey passed, in tho course of
the day, ten rapids, in descending which one of the canoes struck a rock
and sprung a leak. Next day, as they were passuig tho last of fifteen
rapids, which they had been fortunate enough to escape, ono of the
canoes struck, and immediately filled and sunk. Tho men, several of
whom could not swim, clung to the boat till a canoe could bo unloaded,
when with the assistance of an Indian boat they werb all brought, to
shore. All the goods were so wet that they had to halt for the night,
and spread them out to dry. The old Shoshoneo guide with his son
deserted them on the 0th, and was seen running up the river, without
having given notice of his design, or even received his pay. Without
serious accident they passed many rapids below and reached the junction
of the Kooskooskee with the Lewis, on the evening of the 1 0th. They
stopped for breakfast next morning at a large encampment of Indians a
few miles below, where they traded for a stock of provisions. While
the traffic was going on, they observed a vapor bath, different from
those they had previously seen. *' It was a hollow square six or eight
feet deep, formed m the river bank, and completely covered, except an
opening about two feet wide at the top. The bathers descend by this
hole, taking with them a number of jugs of water ; and, after being
seated around the room, throw the water on the stones until the steam
becomes of a temperature sufficiently high fo • their purposes. The
baths of the Indians of the Kocky Mountains are of different sizes, the
most common being made of mud and sticks like an oven, but the mode
of raising the steam is exactly the same. Among both these nations it
is very uncommon for a man to bathe alone ; he is generally accom-
panied by one, or sometimes by several of his acquaintances ; indeed it
is so essentially a social amusement that to decline going in to bathe

162

TRAVELS OP LEWIS AND CLARKE.

when invited by a friend is one of the highest indignities that can bo
offerc'd him."

In Lewis River they likewise encountered frequent rapids, which
sometimes injured their boats, and endangered their safety. In descend-
ing one of these a boat was driven crosswise against a rock in the middle
of the current. The crow attempted to get her oif, but the waves
dashed over her and she soon filled. They got out on the rock and
held her above water, with great exertion, until another canoe was un-
loaded and sent to her relief, but they could not prevent a great deal of
baggage from floating do^vn the stream. As soon as she was lightened
she was hurried down the channel, leaving the crew on the rock. They
were brought off by the rest of the party, and the canoe itself and
nearly all that had been washed overboard, was recovered.

On the 16th they reached the Columbia, and halted above the point
of junction to confer with the Indians, who had collected in great num-
bers to receive them. A chief who had passed them on horseback a few
days before, and who appeared to bo a man of influence, harangued the
Indians on the occasion. After smoking with the latter, they formed
a camp and had the fires prepared, " when a chief came from the Indian
camp, about a mile and a quarter up the Columb'a River, at the head
of nearly two hundred men. They formed a regular procession, keeping
time to the noise, rather than music, of their drums, which they accom-
panied with their voices. As they advanced they formed a semicircle
around us, and continued singing for some time. We then smoked with
them all, and communicated, as well as wo could by sij^ns, our friendly
intentions toward all nations, and our joy at finding ourselves surrounded
by our children." Medals and presents were then distributed, as usual,
to the chiefs. " After they had dispersed, we proceeded to purchase
provisions, and were enabled to collect seven dogs, to which some of the
Indians added small presents of fish, and one of them gave us twenty
pounds of fat dried horse-flesh." Next day they were occupied in mak-
ing the necessary observations and measuring the rivers. Duriqg this
time, the principal chief came down with several of his warriors, and
smoked with the party. They were also visited by several men and
women who offered dogs and fish for sale, but as the fish was out of
season, they contented themselves with purchasing all the dogs they
could obtain.

These Indians called themselves Sokulks. In their language, as well
as in dress and general appearance, they resembled the Chopunnish of
the Kooskooskee and Lewis Rivers. " The most striking difference be-
tween them is among the females, the Sokulk women being more inclined
to corpulency than any we have yet seen. Their stature is low, their
faces broad, and their heads flattened in such a manner that the fore-
head is in a straight line from the nose to the crown of the head.
Their eyes are of a dirty sable ; their hair is coarse and black, and
braided M'ithout ornament of any kind. Instead of wearing, aa do the

pi-

Cl(

thj

or|

1 H

, I

KE.

CLARKE SURPRISES THE INDIANS.

163

ignities that can by

iient rapids, which
safety. In descend-

rock in the middle
off, but the waves '
It on the rock and
)ther canoe was un-
ent a great deal of

she was lightened '
on the rock. They
le canoe itself and
)vered.

ted above the point
cctcd in great num-
1 on horseback a few
ence, harangued the
I latter, they formed
irao from the Indian
I River, at the head
r procession, keeping
), which they accom-
formed a semicircle
fG then smoked with
)y siprns, our friendly
ourselves surrounded
distributed, as usual,
•oceeded to purchase
to which some of the
hem gave us twenty
rero occupied in mak-
rivers. Duriijg this
I of his warriors, and
I by several men and
,3 tlic fish was out of
mg all the dogs they

;hcir language, as well
d the Chopunnish of
striking difference be-
an being more inclined
• stature is low, their
manner that the fore-
3 crown of the head,
coarse and black, and
of wearing, as do the

Chopunnish, long leathern shirts, highly decorated with beads .and shells,
the Sokulk females have no other covering than a piece of leather
drawn around the hips."

In the course of the day Captain Clarke ascended the Columbia a few
miles in a small canoe. Opposite some rapids, five miles above, he found
a fishing-place, consisting of three mat-houses. Here were great quanti-
ties of salmon drying upon scaffolds ; and, indeed, from the mouth of the
river upward he saw immense numbers of dead salmon strewed along
the shore or floating on the surface of the river, whose waters were so
clear that the salmon could be seen swimming in it at the depth of
fifteen or twenty feet. The Indians, who had collected on the banks to
view him, now joined him in eighteen canoes and accompanied him up
the river.

On the 18th a numerous council was held with Indians who came in ;
then, having completed the purposes of their stay, they purchased forty
dogs for provisions and proceeded down the river. Coming to some
dangerous rapids on the 19th, several of the party landed to lighten the
boats. While walking ahead. Captain Clarke ascended a cUff about
two hundred feet above the water, from which he saw that the country
on both sides of the river, immediately below the cliffs, was low, and
spread itself in a level plain to a great distance on all sides. To the
west, at the distance of about one hundred and fifty miles, was a very
high mountain covered with snow, which, from its direction and appear-
ance, he supposed to be the Mount St. Helen's laid down by Vancouver
as visible from the mouth of the Columbia. Tliere was also another
mountain of a conical form, whose top was covered with snow, in a south-
west, direction. As Captain Clarke came to the lower end of the rapid
before any others, except one of the small canoes, he sat down on a rock
to wait for them, and seeing a crane fly across the river, shot it, and it
fell near him. Several Indians had been before this passing on the op-
posite side toward the rapids, and some few who passed nearly in front
of him, being either alarmed at his appearance or the report of the gun,
fled to their houses. Captain Clarke was afraid that these people had
not yet heard that the white men were coming, and therefore, in order
to allay their uneasiness before the whole party should arrive, he got
into the small canoe with three men, and rowed over toward the houses.
While crossing, he shot a duck, which fell into the water. As he ap-
proached, no person was to be seen except th:ee men on the plains, and
they too fled as he came near the shore. He landed before five houses
close to each other, but no one appeared, and the doors, which were of
mat, were closed. He went toward one of them with a pipe in his
hand, and pushing aside the mat, entered the lodge, where he found
thirty-two persons, chiefly men and women, with a few children, all in
the greatest consternation ; some hanging dowTi their heads, others
crying and wringing their hands. He went up to them all and shook
hands with them in the most friendly manner ; but their apprehensions,

164

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

which liad for a moment subsided, revived on his taking out a bum-
ing-gloHH, as there M-as no roof to the house, and lighting his pipe. He
then oflered it to several of the men, and distributed among the women
and children a few small trinkets which he carried about with him, and
gradually restored some tranquillity among them. He then left this
house, and directing each of the men to go into a house, went himself
into a second. Here he found the inhabitants more terrified than those
he had first seen, but he succeeded in pacifying them, and then visited
the other houses, where the men had been equally successful.

After leaving the houses he went out to sit on a rock, and beckoned
to some of the men to como and smoke with him ; but none of them
ventured to join him till the canoes arrived with the two chiefi, who im-
mediately explained to them the pacific intentions of the strangers. Soon
afterward the interpreter's wife landed, and her presence dissipated all
doubts, since in that country no woman ever accompanies a war-party ;
they therefore all came out and seemed perfectly reconciled. They told
the two chiefs that they knew the strangers were not men, for they had
seen them fall from the clouds. In fact, unperceived by them. Captain
Clarke had shot the white crane, which they had seen fall just before he
appeared to their eyes. The duck which he had killed also fell close by
him, and as there were a few clouds flying over at the moment, they
connected the fall of the birds with his sudden appearance, and believed
that he had himself dropped from the clouds ; the noise of the rifle, which
they had never heard before, being considered merely as a sound to an-
nounce so extraordinary an event. This belief was strengthened when
on entering the room he brought down fire from the heavens by means
of his burning-glass. They were soon satisfactorily convinced that the
strangers were only mortals, and after one of the chiefs had explained
their history and objects, they all smoked together in great harmony.

On the 22d they came to the Great Falls of the Columbia, at the
head of which they unloaded all the canoes and took the baggage over
by land to the foot of the rapids. In this transportation they were
greatly assisted by the Indians living on the banks of the river, who car-
ried some of the heavy articles on their horses. For their services, how-
ever, they repaid themselves so adroitlr that the travelers had to secure
the camp against their pilfering. Next day they brought down their
canoes by the plan adopted by the Indians. Crossing the river, they
hauled them over a point of land on the south side, so as to avoid a per-
pendicular fall of twenty feet. At the distance of a quarter of a mile
they reached the water and embarked. Having thus descended for a
mile, they reached a pitch of the river, which, divided by two large rocks,
descends with great rapidity down a fall of eight feet. As the boats
could not be navigated down this steep descent, they were obliged to
land and let them down as slowly as possible by strong ropes of elk-skin.
They all passed in safety except one, which being loosed by the breaking
of the ropes, was swept down, but was recovered by the Indians below.

:e. I

king out a burn-
ig his pipe. He
mong the women
out with him, and
le then left this
use, went himself
irrified than those
and then visited
icessful.

3ck, and beckoned

but none of them

wo chiefe, who im-

e strangers. Soon

ence dissipated all

)anie8 a war-party ;

mciled. They told

; men, for they had

i by them, Capt^n

i fall just before he

ed also fell close by

the moment, they

,rance, and believed

se of the rifle, which

sly as a sound to an-

strengthened when

10 heavens by means

' convinced that the

!hiefs had explained

in great harmony.

ihe Columbia, at the

ok the baggage over

iportation they were

)f the river, who car-

r their services, how-

ivelers had to secure

• brought down their

jsing the river, they

so as to avoid a per-

' a quarter of a mile

thus descended for a

i by two large rocks,

; feet. As the boats

they were obliged to

ong ropes of elk-skin.

losed by the breaking

ay the Indians below.

THE FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA.

165

They were visited that day by a great number of Indians, both from
above and below the falls, and toward evening they were informed by
one of the chiefs who accompanied them, that he had overheard that the
Indians below intended to attack the party as it passed down the river.
Being always ready for any attempt of that sort, they only re-examined
their arms and increased the ammimition to one hundred rounds. The
chiefs, however, were not so much at ease, and when at night they saw
the Indians depart earlier than usual, they were very much alarmed.
Next morning the Indians approached with apparent caution, and be-
haved with more than usual reserve. The two chiefs, by whom these
circumstances were not unobserved, now expressed their wish to return
home, saying that they could no longer be of any service, and that they
could not understand the language of the people below the Falls ; that
the two tribes had been at war with each other, and the Indians would
certainly kill them. " We endeavored to quiet their fears, and requested
them to stay two nights longer. In which time we would see the Indians
below and make a peace between the two nations. They replied that
they were anxious to return and see their horses ; we insisted on their
remaining with us, not only in hopes of bringing about an accommoda-
tion between them and their enemies, but because they might be able to
detect any hostile designs against us, and also assist us in passing the
next falls, which are not far off, and represented as very difficult. They
at length consented to stay two nights longer."

Three miles below, the river widens into a large basin, at the extremity
of which a high black rock, rising perpendicularly from the right shore,
seemed to nm wholly across the river. So totally did it appear to stop
the passage, that as they approached they could not see where the river
escaped, except that the current was drawn with more than usual veloc-
ity to the left of the rock, where there was a great roaring. Climbing
the rock, they saw that the whole river swept through a channel of
forty-five yards wide, in which the water was thrown into whirls, and
swelled and boiled in every part with the wildest agitation. But as it
was impossible to carry the boats over this high rock, and as the chief
danger was not from rocks, but from great waves and whirlpools, they
resolved to try the passage in the boats. With great care they passed
safely through, much to the astonishment of the Indians who had col-
lected on the top of the rock to see them. This narrow passage contin-
ued for half a mile, when the river again enlarged to the width of two
hundred yards. Presently they came to other rapids, which looked so
unpromising that they unloaded the most valuable articles and sent them
down by land, with all the men who could not swim. They descended
in safety, and encamped in the evening, two miles below, near an Indian
village at the second falls. The inhabitants received them with great
kindness, visits were exchanged, and an apparent reconciliation was ef^
fected between them and the two ohie& who accompanied the expedi<
tion.

166

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

.It

The Indians represented t)ie narrows as most dangerous ; but as the
portage of the large canoes was impracticable, they sent some of the
party forward next morning with the best stores, fixed others on the
rocks to assist with ropes the canoes that might meet with any difficulty,
and began the descent, in the presence of great numbers of Indians,
who had collected to witness the exploit. The channel for three miles
was M'orn through a hard, rough black rock from fifty to a hundred
yards wide, in which the water swells and boils in a tremendous manner.
At half a mile they got through the worst without serious accident, then
reloading the canoes they passed down the remainder of the channel
very well, except that one of the boats was nearly lost by striking against
a rock. The Indians designate these falls by the word Timm, which
they pronounce so as to make it represent the sound of a distant catar-
act. Below the channel they landed to smoke with a chief whom they
saw, Avho had been absent when they passed his village ab ">ve. He was
a bold-looking man, of pleasing appearance, about fifty yea»'s of age, and
dressed in a war-jacket, a cap, loggings, and moccasins. They presented
him with a medal and other small articles, and he gave them some meat,
of which he had but little ; for on his route he had had a battle with a
■war party of the Towahnahiooks. Here they met with their old chiefs,
who had walked on to the village below, to smoke a pipe of friendship
on the renewal of peace. These chiefs had each brought a horse, intend-
ing to go home, and now the travelers smoked a parting pipe with their
two faithful friends, who had accompanied them from the head of the
river.

They encamped that evening, the 25th, on a high rock, where they
remained two days to make observations, to dry their wet cargoes, and
to hold conferences with the Indians. Six men were sent out to collect
rosin to pitch the canoes, which, by being frequently hauled over rocks,
had become leaky. Many Indians came ; some, from hunting excursions,
brought presents of deer's flesh and small v/hite cakes made of roots.
Lewis and Clarke bestowed the usual medals and presents, and being
anxious to insure a friendly reception on their return, treated them with
great kindness. These attentions were not lost on the Indians, who
appeared well pleased with them. At night a fire was made in the mid-
dle of the camp, and as the Indians sat round it, the men danced to the
music of the violin, which so delighted them that several resolved to
remain all night ; the rest crossed the river. Having dried their goods
they set out on the 28th, and on the day following stopped at the resi-
dence of the principal chief of the Chilluckittequaw nation, who inhab-
ited this region. He proved to be the same with whom the two chiefs
had made peace at the village above. After the exchange of presents
the chief showed them some curiosities, and then directed his wife to
hand him his medicine-bag, from which he brought out fourteen fore-
fingers, which he said had once belonged to the same number of his
enemies, whom he had killed in fighting with the nations to the south-

-erous ; but as the

sent some of the

ced others on the

with any difficulty,

imbere of Indians,

lel for three miles

fifty to a hundred

■emendouB manner.

rious accident, then

ler of the channel

by striking against

word Timm, which

il of a distant catar-

a chief whom they

ge ab -"ve. He was

ty yeai-s of age, and

19. They presented

ve them some meat,

I had a battle with a

nrith their old chiefs,

a pipe of friendship

ught a horse, intend-

rting pipe with their

om the head of the

gh rock, where they
leir wet cargoes, and
re sent out to collect
ly hauled over rocks,
m hunting excursions,
cakes made of roots,
d presents, and being
rn, treated them with
on the Indians, who
was made in the mid-
he men danced to the
it several resolved to
ing dried their goods
jg stopped at the resi-
aw nation, who inhab-
whom the two chiefs
exchange of presents
1 directed his wife to
rht out fourteen fore-
s same number of his.
nations to the south-

FIRST VIEW OF THE PACIFIC.

167

east. This bag was about two feet in length, contauiing roots, pounded
dirt, etc., which the Indians only know how to appreciate. It is sus-
pended in the middle of the lodge, and it is supposed to be a species of
sacrilege to be touched by any but the owner. It is an object of relig-
ious fear, and it is, from its sanctity, the safest place to deposit their
medals and more valuable articles.

By the last of October they reached the Lower Falls of the Columbia,
where they held a conference with the Indians who came in from a
neighboring village, and then made preparations for a portage on the
1st of November. They then carried their small canoe and all the
baggage across the slippery rocks to the foot of the shoot, after which
the four large canoes were brought down by slipping them along poles,
placed from one rock to another, and in some places by partially using
streams that escaped alongside the river. Three of them, however, were
so injured that the men were obliged to stop at the end of the shoot to
repair them. A mile and a half below, they passed another bad rapid,
and so difficult was the navigation of this day, that when they encamped
for the night they had made but seven miles from the head of the shoot.
In the morning they found it necessary to unload once more, and send
the baggage, with those who could not swim, around a dangerous rapid.
This was the last descent of the Columbia ; below it they came to tide-
water, and the river began to grow wide.

In passing along they frequently met Indians ascending the river in
canoes ; some of these canoes bore the figure of a bear in the bow, and
that of a man in the stern, both made of painted wood and nearly as
large as life. They also held continual intercourse with the natives on
the shore, who were usually kind and friendly, but occasionally mani-
fested a disposition to pilfer. They encountered much rainy weather in
the lower stages of their journey^ so that their clothing was continually
wet, and the baggage much injured. On the 7th, they stopped to pur-
chase some food and beaver skins at a village situated at the foot of the
high hills on the right, behind two small islands. " Opposite to these
islands the hills on the left retire, and the river widens into a kind of
bay crowded with islands. We had not gone far from this village when
the fog cleared off, and we enjoyed the delightful prospect of the ocean:
that ocean, the object of all our labors, the reward of all our anxieties.
This cheering view exhilarated the spirits of all the party, who were
still more delighted on hearing the distant roar of the breakers." They
went on with great cheerfulness, but the shore was so bold and rocky on
the right that they could find no spot fit for an encampment, and after
having gone thirty-four miles during the day, they spread their mats on
the ground and passed the night in the rain. It rained in the morning ;
having changed their wet clothing of the day before, they set forward
at a late hour, but when they had reached a point eight miles in ad-
vance, the waves ran so higli, and dashed the canoes about so much that
several of the men became sea-sick, and they were compelled to land.

,.„-,> ■>.i^'!^t>ii!aty;-j^'<ai;:.--*.^sr-P--^-:.-..t^-^ g

168

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

The situation was extremely uncomfortable, the high hills jutted in so
closely that there was not room to lie level, nor to secure their baggage
free from the tide, but the waves were increasing at every moment so
much that they could not move from the spot in safety. They therefore
fixed themselves on the beach left by the ebb-tide, and having raised the
baggage on poles, spent a disagreeable night. It rained the whole of
the next day ; the tide set in, accompanied by a high wind from the
south, which shifted and blew almost a gale from the sea. The im-
mense waves now broke over the place where they were encamped, and
the large trees, some of them five or six feet thick, which had lodged at
the point, were drifted over their camp, and the utmost vigilance of
every man could scarcely save the canoes from being crushed to pieces.
They remained in the water, and drenched with rain durmg the rest of
the day ; their only food being some dried fib'j, and some rain-water,
which they caught. Yet, though wet and cold, and some of them sick
from using the salt-water, the men were still cheerftil and full of anxiety
to see more of the ocean.

On tho 10th they were enabled to proceed, but at the distance of
ten miles the wind arose, and tho heavy sea forced them to seek a place
of safety. They made another attempt when the tide fell, but were
obliged to put to shore a mile below. They encamped on some drift-
logs, M ith the hills rising steep above their heads to the height of five
hundred feet. Every thing was thoroughly wet with the rain, which
did not cease during the night, in the course of which the tide reached
tho logs, and set them afloat. Next day the wind was still high, and
drove the Avavcs against the shore with great fury ; the rain, too, fell in
torrents, and not only drenched them to the skin, but loosened the stones
on the hill-sides, which then came rolling down upon them. In this
comfortless situation they remained all day, with nothing but dried fish
to satisfy their hunger ; tho canoes in one place at the mercy of the
waves ; the baggage in another ; and all the men scattered on floating
logs, or sheltering themselves in the crevices of the rocks, and hill-sides.
At three o'clock on the morning of the 12th, a tremendous gale of wind
arose accompanied with lightning, thunder, and hail. In a few hours it
abated, but a violent rain soon began, and lasted all day. Their situa-
tion now became much more dangerous, for the waves were driven with
fury against the rocks and trees which till now had aflbrded them a
refuge ; they therefore took advantage of the low tide and moved half
a mile to the mouth of a small brook which had been hidden by the
bushes and drift-wood. Here they were safer, if not more comfortable.
On the 1 4th, three men were sent to try if they could double the point
and find some safer harbor. One of them returned next day with in-
formation that at no great distance there was a beautiful sand-beach,
and a good harbor. Captain Lewis then set out to examine more mi-
nutely the lower part of the bay. On the 15th the weather was fair, and
enabled them to dry their bedding and examine their baggage. The

EE.

THE MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA.

169

hills jutted in so

re their baggage

every moment so

They therefore

having raised the

led the whole of

Igh wind from the

the sea. The im-

ere encamped, and

ich had lodged at

tmost vigilance of

crushed to pieces.

during the rest of

d some rain-water,

some of them sick

land full of anxiety

t at the distance of
hem to seek a place

tide fell, but were
nped on some drift-
) the height of five
nth the rain, which
ich the tide reached

was still high, and

the rain, too, fell in
t loosened the stones
upon them. In this
othing but dried fish
It the mercy of the
scattered on floating

rocks, and hill-sides,
lendous gale of wind
1. In a few hours it
all day. Their situa-
ves were driven with
had afforded them a
tide and moved half
been hidden by the
ot more comfortable,
aid double the point
ed next day with in-
beautiful sand-beach,
to examine more mi-
weather was fair, and
their baggage. The

rain, which had continued for the last ten days without an inter^'al of
more than two hours, had completely wet all their merchandise, and
spoiled some of their fish, destroyed the robes, and rotted nearly one
half of their few remaining articles of clothing, particularly the leather
dresses. About three o'clock the wind fell, and they instantly loaded
the canoes, and left the miserable spot to which they had been confined
the last six days.

At the sand-beach below, they met Shannon, who had been sent back
by Captain Lewis to meet them. The day Shannon had set out in his
canoe, he and his comrade went on till they met a party of twelve In-
dians, who, having never heard of the expedition, did not know where
they came from ; they, however, behaved with so much civility, and
seemed so anxious that the men should go with them toward the sea,
that their suspicions were excited, and they declined going on. The
Indians, however, would not leave them, and the men being confirmed
in their suspicions, and fearful that if they went into the woods to sleep,
they would be cut to pieces in the night, thought it best to remain
in the midst of the Indians; they therefore made a fire, and after
talking with them to a late hour, lay down with their rifles under their
heads. On awaking in the morning they found the Indians had stolen
and hidden their guns. Having demanded them in vain. Shannon seized
a club and was about assaulting one of the Indians whom he suspected
of being the thief, when another Indian began to load a fowling-piece
with the intention of shooting him. He therefore stopped, and explained
by signs that if they did not give up the guns, a large party would
come down the river before the sun rose to such a height, and put
every one of them to death. Fortunately Captdn Lewis and his party
appeared at this time and the terrified Indians immediately brought
the guns.

"WINTBE ON THE PACIFIC COAST.

" Saturday.^ November 16. — ^The morning was clear and beautiful.
We therefore put out all our baggage to dry, and sent several of the
party to hunt. Our camp is in Ml view of the ocean, on the bay laid
down by Vancouver, which was distinguished by the name of Haley's
Bay, from a trader who visits the Indians here, and is a great fiivorite
among them.'» Captain Lewis returned on the 1 7th, after having coasted
down Haley's Bay to Cape Disappointment, and some distance to the
north along the sea-coast. He was followed by several Chinnooks,
among whom were the principal chief and his family. "They made us
a present of a boiled root, very much like the common liquorice in taste
and size, called cuhohamo; in return, we gave double the value of their
present, and now learned the danger of accepting any thing from them,
smce no return, even if ten times the value of their gift, can satisfy

^se^s^saggas^y.^:'.-' r--i affl-j«v^<in:;K.:

170

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

them." Captain Clarke afterward traveled by land around the coast,
and climbed Cape Disappointment. This is a circular knob, rising, with
a steep ascent, one hundred and fifty feet above the water, and connected
to the main land by a neck of low ground, two or three hundred yards
wide.

lie retunied to the camp on the 20t.h, and found a number of Chin-
nooks, with whom they held a council. Next day they were visited by
various bands of the neighborhood, and a chief from the Grand Rapids,
with whom they exchanged articles of trade. After these Indians were
gone they Avere surprised at a visit of a different kind : " An old woman,
the wife of a Chinnook chief, came with six young women, her daught-
ers and nieces, and having deliberately encamped near us, proceeded to
cultivate an intimacy between our men and her fair wards."

Having examined the coast, it became necessary to decide on the spot
for tlieir Avintor quarters. As they would have to rely chiefly on their
arms for subsistence, they Avere guided in their choice by the abundance
of game Avhich any particular place might offer. The Indians said the
country on the opposite side of the bay was better supplied Avith elk,
an animal larger and more easily killed than the deer, the latter being
most numerous at some distance up the river. The climate hero was
milder than above the first range of mountains ; the Indians went thinly
clad, and said they had but little snow. The weather had indeed been
very warm since their arrival, sometimes disagreeably bo ; and dressed,
as they Avere, altogether in leather, the cold would be very unpleasant,
if not injurious. The neighborhood of the sea was further recommended
by the facility of supplying themselves with salt, and the hope of meet-
ing some of the trading vessels, which might be expected in about three
months, and from which they might secure a fresh supply of trinkets
for their route homeward. These considerations induced them to visit
the opposite side of the bay ; and if there was an appearance of much
game, to establish themselves there during the winter. Accordingly, on
the 25th they left their place of encampment, but the wind being too
high they kept along near the shore toward their former camp, and on
the following day crossed over to the south side of the Columbia. After
going a few miles along the shore they entered a channel which separates
the main land from a large, low island, and stopped at a village of the
Cathlamah tribe. Here they procured some elk meat, and after dining
on fresh fish and roots, which they bought at an enormous price, they
coasted along the river toward the south. On the 27th they encamped
on a pebbly beach, connecting with the main land a remarkable peninsular
knob, Avhich they called Point William. For a week past the weather had
been almost incessantly wet, and it had rained hard the whole of this
day ; " it continued all night, and in the morning began more violently,
attended Avith a high wind from the south-west. It was now impossible
to proceed on so rough a sea. We therefore sent several men to hunt,
and the rest of us remained during the day in a situation the most cheer-

■ ■ I i»»ila»aiii-

:e.

l"OHnd the coast,

pnob, rising, with

pr, and connected

hundred yards

number of Chin-
were visited by
e Grand Rapids,
lese Indians were
I" An old woman,
imen, her daught-
us, proceeded to
irds."

lecide on the spot
ly chiefly on their
•y the abundance
Indians said the
luppliedwith elk,
\ the latter being
climate hero was
idians went thinly
[r had indeed been
so; and dressed,
[e very unpleasant,
"her recommended
the hope of meet-
ted in about three
supply of trinkets
uced them to visit
pearance of much
Accordingly, on
) wind being too
mer camp, and on
Columbia. After
el which separates
It a village of the
and after dining
mous price, they
h they encamped
trkable peninsular
t the weather had
he whole of this
n more violently,
8 now impossible
ral men to hunt,
the most cheer-

THBT ENCAUP FOR THE WINTER.

171

less and uncomfortable. On this little neck of land we were exposed,
with a miserable covering which did not deserve the name of shelter, to
the violence of the winds ; all our bedding and stores, as well as our
bodies, were completely wet, our clothes rotting with constant exposure,
and no food except the dried fish brought from the Falls, to which M'O
were again reduced. The hunters all returned hungry and drenched
with rain, having seen neither deer nor elk, and the swan and brant too
shy to be approached. At noon the wind shifted to the north-west and
blew with such tremendous fury that many trees were blown do^vn
near us."

The disagreeable diet of pounded fish and salt water occasioned so
much sickness among the men that it became absolutely necessary to
vary it. Captain Lewis took a canoe on the 20th, and went down the
bay M'ith five men, to hunt elk, and other parties went out by land. On
the 3d of December an elk was brought into camp, the first they had
killed west of the Rocky Mountains, and after their meager tare it formed
a most nourishing food. In the afternoon of the 6th they were rejoiced
at the return of Captain Lewis, for whose safety they had begun to bo
very uneasy. He came in a canoe Avith three of his men, the other two
being left to guard six elk and five deer which they had killed. Ho had
examined the coast, .and found a river a, short distance below, on which
they might encamp during the winter, with a sufliciency of elk for their
subsistence M'ithin reach. This information was very satisfactory, and
they decided on going thither as soon as they could move from the point.
This they were enabled to do on the 7th, although the tide was against
them and the waves still very high. On reaching the south side of
Meriwether's Bay, which they named from Captain Le^vis, they ascended
the river Netul for three miles, to the first point of highland on its
western bank, and formed their camp in a thick grove of lofty pines,
about two hundred yards from the water, and thirty feet above the level
of the high tides. Tiiis seemed the most eligible spot for their winter
establishment. In order, therefore, to find a place for making salt, and
to examine the country further, Captain Clarke set out with five men,
taking a south-western course through thick pine forests and much
swampy land, toward the sea. For shelter the first night they stretched
the skin of an elk they had killed, but rose in the morning perfectly wet
with the rain. Proceeding westward, they had much difiiculty in mak-
ing their way over streams and swamps, and at length met with three
Indians, who invited them to their village on the sea-coast. They went
thither, and Captain Clarke was received with much attention. As soon
as he entered, clean mats were spread, and fish, berries, and roots set
before him on small, neat platters of rushes. After he had eaten, the
men of the other houses came and smoked with him. They all appeared
much neater in their persons and diet than Indians generally are, and
frequently washed their hands and faces, a ceremony by no means fre-
quent elsewhere.

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

As the captain was walking on the shore next day, one of the Indians
asked him to shoot a duck about thirty steps distant. He did so, and
having accidentally shot off its head, the bird was brought to the village
by the Indians, all of whom came round in astonishment. They exam-
ined the duck, the musket, and the very small bullet, and then exclaimed :
" Clouch musket^ toake, commatax mutkeP* (" A good musket, do not
understand this kind of musket"). They now placed before him their
best roots, fish, and syrup, after which he made a few purchases and re-
turned to the camp through a heavy rain. The whole party had been
occupied during his absence in cutting down trees to make huts, and in
hunting.

On the 11th of December Captain Clarke says: "The rain continued
last night and the whole of this day. We were, however, all employed
in putting up our winter cabins, which we are anxious to finish, as sev-
eral of the men are beginning to suffer from the excessive dampness;
four of them have violent colds, one has a dysentery, another has tumors
on his legs, and two have been injured by dislocation and strdning their
limbs." The work went on notwithstanding the rain, and by the 14th
they had finished the walls of the huts and completed a house for pro-
visions. The constant rains had spoiled their last supply of elk, but the
sick were recovering, although scarcely a man had been dry for a great
many days. The hunters were so fortimate ad to kill eighteen elk, and
on the 15th Captain Clarke set out with sixteen men, who were dis-
patched for the game in small parties, each man returning with the quar-
ter of an animal. In bringing the third and last load, nearly half the
men missed their way and did not return till after night, and five did not
find their way till next morning. The rain had poured down upon them
all night, as it had upon their comrades in the camp, but in addition to
this they had been without fire, and drenched and cold as they were,
they presented a most distressing sight when they came in. At length
the building was completed, and they moved into their huts on the 24th.
Meanwhile, however, their stock of meat was completely spoiled by 'the
incessant rains, and pounded fish became again their chief dependence.

" Wednesdaj/, 25. "We were awaked at daylight by a discharge of
fire-arms, which was followed by a song from the men, as a compliment
to us on the return of Christmas, which we have always been accustomed
to observe as a day of rejoicing. After breakfast we divided our re-
maining stock of tobacco, which amounted to twelve carrots, into two
parts, one of which we distributed among such of the party as made use
of it, making a present of a handkerchief to the others. The remainder
of the day was passed in good spirits, though there was nothing in our
situation to excite much gayety. The rain confined us to the house,
and our only luxuries in honor of the season, were some poor elk, so
much spoiled that we ate it through mere necessity, a few roots, and
some spoiled pounded fish."

December 30. " We enjoyed the fiiirest and most pleasant weather

EBIWKB

jono of tho Indians
He did so, and
[ght to the village
unt. They exam-
Id then exclaimed :
musket, do not
before him their
Ipurchascs and re-
party had been
lake huts, and in

>e rain continued
ver, all employed
I to finish, as sev-
essive dampness;
lother has tumors
nd straining their
and by the 14th
1 a house for pro-
»ly of elk, but the
en dry for a great
eighteen elk, and
en, who were dis-
ing with the quar-
id, nearly half the
It, and five did not
i down upon them
Kit in addition to
)ld as they were,
le in. At length
• huts on the 24th.
ly spoiled by 'the
lief dependence.
by a discharge of
, as a compliment
been accustomed
divided our re-
carrots, into two
arty as made use
The remainder
I nothing in our
IS to the house,
me poor elk, so
a few roots, and

)leasant weather

THE SALT CAMP.

178

since our arrival ; tho sun having shono at intervals, and there boiiig
only three showers in the course of tho day. By sunset wo had com-
plctcd tho fortification, and now announced to the Indians that every
day, at that hour, tho gates would be closed, and they must leave the
fort, and not enter it till sunrise. Tho Wahkiacums, who had remain<Hl
with us, and who are very forward in their deportment, complied Acry
reluctantly with this order ; but being excluded from our houses, fonncd
a camp near us."

" Wednesday, January 1, 1806. — ^We were awaked at an early hojir
by a discharge of a volley of small arms, to salute the New Year. This
is the only mode of doing honor to the day which our situation permits,
for though wo have reason to be gayer than we were at Christmas, our only
dainties arc tho boiled elk and Wappatoo roots, enlivened by draughts
of pure water." One day a neighboring chief^ with a party of Clatsops,
brought for sale, besides roots and berries, three dogs and some flesh
blubber. " Having been so long accustomed to live on tho flesh of
dogs, the greater part of us have acquired a fondness for it, and our
original aversion for it is overcome, by reflecting that while we sub-
sisted on that food we were fatter, stronger, and in general enjoyed bet.
tcr health than at any period since leaving tho buffalo country eastward
of the mountains." The blubber had been obtained from the Killa-
mucks, a neighboring nation on tho sea-coast to the south, near one of
whose villages a whale had recently been stranded.

Two of tho men who had been dispatched to make salt, returned on
the 15th. They had carefully examined the coast, but it was not until
the fifth day after their departure that they discovered a convenient sit-
uation for its manufacture. At length they formed an establishment
about fifteen miles south-west of the fort, near some scattered houses of
the Clatsop and lOllamuck nations, where they had erected a comforta-
ble camp and had killed a stock of provisions. The Indians had treated
them very kindly, and made them a present of the blubber of the Avhale,
some of which the men brought home. The appearance of the whale
seemed to be a matter of importance to all the neighboring Indians, and
in the hope of procuring some of it, a parcel of merchandise was pre-
pared, and a party of men held in readiness to set out from the fort in
the morning. As soon as this resolution was known, Chaboneau and his
wife requested that they might be permitted to accompany the party.
The poor woman stated very earnestly that she had traveled a great way
with them to see the great water, yet she had never been down to the
coast, and now that this monstrous fish was also to be seen, it seemed
hard that she should not be permitted to see either the ocean or the whale.
So reasonable a request could not be denied ; they were therefore suf-
fered to accompany Captain Clarke.

Having reached the salt-makers' camp, " we persuaded a young In-
dian, by a present of a file and a promise of some other articles, to guide
us to the spot where the whale lay. He led us for two and a half miles

174

TRAVELS OP LEWIS AND CLARKE.

over tilts round Hlippcry stoncH nt the foot of n high hill projoptiiig into
the NCI, and thon Huddcnly stopping, explained by Higtm that wo must
crosH the inountuin. This promised to be a most laborious undertaking,
for the side is nearly perpendicular and the top lost in clouds. lie, how-
over, followed an Indian path which wound along as much as possible,
but still the ascent was so steep that at one place wo drew ourselves for
altout a hundred feet by means of bushes and roots. At length, after
two hours' labor, we reached the top of the mountain, where we looked
down with astonishment on the prodigious height of ten or twelve hun-
dred feet which we had ascended. "Wo proceeded by a bad road till
night, when we encamped on a small run : we wore all much fatigued,
but the weather was pleasant, and for the first time since our arrival
here an entire day has passed without rain. On the 8th we set out early
and proceeded to the top of the mountain, the highest point of which is
an open spot facing the ocean. It is situated about thirty miles south-
cast of Cape Disappointment, and projects nearly two and a half miles into
tlie sea. Here one of the most delightfid views in nature presents itself.
Immediately in front is the ocean, which breaks with fury on the coast,
from the rocks of Capo Disappointment, as far as the eye can discern, to
the north-west, and against the high lands and irregular piles of rock
whicli diversify the shore to the south-east. To this boisterous sccno
the Cohimbia, M-ith its tributary waters, widening into bays as it ap-
jjro.iches the ocean, and studded on both sides with the Chimook and
Cbtsop villages, forms a charming contrast ; while immediately beneath
our feet are stretched the rich prairies, enlivened by three beautiful
streams, which conduct the eyo to small lakes at the foot of the hills.
We stopped to enjoy the romantic viev/ from this place, which we dis-
tinguished by the name of Clarke's Point of View, and then followed our
guide dovm the mountain."

The whale had been placed between two Killamuck villages, and
nothing more remained than the skeleton, which they found to be one
hundred and five feet in length. The natives were all busied in boiling
the blubber and preserving the oil. These they parted with reluctantly,
and at such high prices that <!Japtain Clarke's whole stock of merchandise
was exhausted in the purchase of three hundred pounds of blubber and
a few gallons of oil. With these he set out to return, and encamped on
the other side of the creek, which he called Ecola, or Whale Creek.
Here they were joined by the men of the village, who gave all the infor-
mation they possessed relative to their country. While smoking with
the Indians, Captain Clarke was surprised about ten o'clock by a loud
shrill outcry from the opposite village ; on hearing which all the Indians
started up to cross the creek, and the guide informed him that some one
had been killed. On examination, one of the men was found to be ab-
sent, and a guard dispatched, who met him crossing the creek in great
haste. An Indian belonging to another band, who happened to be with
the Killamucks that evening, had treated him with much kindness, and

tlKE.

hill projecting into
ign» that wo must
orious undertaking,
1 clouds. lie, how-
i much ns possible,
) drew ourselves for
. At length, after
n, where we looked
■ ton or twelve hun-
hy a bad road till
all much fatigued,
le since our arrival
Bth wo set out early
st point of which is
thirty miles south-
and a half miles into
iturc presents itself,
h fury on the coast,
J eye can discern, to
egular piles of rock
his boisterous scene
into bays as it ap-
th the Chimook and
mmediately beneath
I by three beautiful
he foot of the hills,
place, which we dis-
id then followed our

amuck villages, and
;hey found to be one

all busied in boiling
ted with reluctantly,
stock of merchandise
ands of blubber and
rn, and encamped on
a, or Whale Creek,
ho gave all the infor-
While smoking with
en o'clock by a loud
ivhich all the Indians
d him that some one
I was found to be ab-
g the creek in great
happened to be with

much kindness, and

S^^^"

^y^^^

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

— II '-"^ 1 '■*

►

A-^

»'

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHIVI/iCMH
Collection de
microfiches.

jfe^-

Canadian institute for Historical MIcroreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

PREPARATIONS FOR RETURN.

175

walked arm in arm with him to a tent where he found a Chinnook squaw
who was an old acquaintance. From the conversation and manner of
the stranger, this woman discovered that his object was to murder the
white man for the sake of the few articles on his person ; and when he
rose and pressed the man to go to another tent, where they would find
something better to eat, she held M'Neal by the blanket. Not knowing
her object, he freed himself from her, and was going on with his pre-
tended friend, when she ran out and gave the shriek which brought the
men of the village over. The stranger escaped before M'Neal knew
what had occasioned the alarm.

" The month of February and the greater part of March was passed
in the same manner. Every day, parties as large as we could spare
them from our other occupations, were sent out to hunt, i;nd we v/crc
thus enabled to command some days' provision in advance. It consisted
chiefly of deer and elk ; the first is very lean, and the flesh by no means
as good as that of the elk, which is our chief dependence." In March
the elk became scarce and lean, and they made use of fish whenever
they could catch them, or purchase them from the Indians ; but as they
were too poor to indulge very largely in these luxuries, their diet was
by no means pleasant, and to the sick, especially, was unwholesome.
During the greater part of this month, five or six of the men were sick,
the general complaint being a bad cold and fever, something like an
influenza.

THE RETURN JOURNEY.

" Many reasons had determined us to remain at Fort Clatsop till the
1st of April. Besides the want of fuel on the Columbian plains, and the
impracticability of passing the mountains before the beginning of June,
we were anxious to see some of the foreign traders, from whom, by means
of our ample letters of credit, we might have recruited our exhausted
stores of merchandise. About the middle of March, however, wo be-
came seriously alarmed for the want of food ; the elk, our chief depend-
ence, had at length deserted their usual haunts in our neighborliood,
and retreated to the mountmns. We were too poor to purchase other
food from the Indians, so that we were sometimes reduced, notwith-
standing all the exertions of our hunters, to a single day's provisions in
advance. The men, too, whom the constant rains and confinement had
rendered unhealthy, might, we hoped, be benefited by leaving the coast
and resuming the exercise of traveling. We therefore determined to
leave Fort Clatsop, ascend the river slowly, consume the month of March
in the woody country where we hope to find subsistence, and in this
way reach the plains about the Ist of April, before which time it will be
impossible to attempt crossing them : for this purpose we began our pre-
parations. During the winter we had been very industrious in dressing
skins, so that we had now a suflicient quantity of clothing, besides be-

If*

>*?

k^'

176

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

twoen three and four hundred pair of moccasins. But the whole stock
of -oods on which we are to depend, either for the purchase of horses
or of food, during the long tour of nearly four thousand miles, is so much
diminished that it might aU he tied in two handkerchiefs We have in
fact, nothing but six blue robes, one of scarlet, a coat and hat of United
States artiUery uniform, five robes made of our large flag, and a few old
clothes trimmed with ribbon. Our chief dependence, therefore, must be
on our guns, which, fortunately for us, are aU in good order, as we had
taken the precaution of bringing a number of extra locks, and one of
ova- men proved to be an exceUent artist in that way. The powder had
been secured in leaden canisters, and though on many occasions they
had been under water, it remained perfectly dry, and we now found our- ,
selves in possession of one hundred and forty pounds of powder, and ^
twice that quantity of lead, a stock quite sufficient for the route home- :

ward. , , , , .

"After much trafficking, we at last succeeded in purchasmg a canoe
for a uniform coat and half a carrot of tobacco, and took a canoe from
the Clatsops as a reprisal for some elk they had stolen from us m the
winter. We were now ready to leave Fort Clatsop, but the ram prevented
us for several days from calking the canoes, and we were forced to wait
for calm weather before we could attempt to pass Point William. In the
mean time we were visited by many of our neighbors, for the purpose
of fikintr leave of us. The Clatsop Comowool has been the most kind
and hospitable of all the Indians in this quarter ; we therefore gave him
a certificate of the kindness and attention which we have received from
him and added a more substantial proof of our gratitude, the gift of all
our houses and ftimiture. To the Chinnook chief, Delashelwit, we gave
a certificate of the same kind. We also circulated among the natives
several papers, one of which we also posted up in the fort, to the follow-
ing effect : ■.. « • -i
» ' The object of this last is, that through the medium of some civil-
ized person, who may see the same, it maybe made known to the world,
that the party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto an-
nexed, and who were sent out by the government of the United States
to explore the interior of the continent of North America, did penetrate
the same by the way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers, to the dis-
charge of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they arrived on the
14th day of November, 1806, and departed the 23d day of March, 1806,
on their return to the United States, by the same route by which they

had come out.' , , , j *

" Sunday, March 23d, 1806, the canoea were loaded, and at one
o'clock in the afternoon we took a final leave of Fort Clatsop. The wind
was still high, but the alternative of remaining without provisions was
so unpleasant that we hoped to be able to double Point William." Hav-
ing passed the point in safety, they proceeded up the river without any
hinderance until the 1st of April, when they learned from some Indians

,EE.

it the whole stock
)urcha8e of horses
d miles, is so much
liefe. "We have, in
and hat of United
flag, and a few old
therefore, must be
>d order, as we had
a locks, and one of
The powder had
lany occasions they
we now found our-
ids of powder, and
or the route home-
purchasing a canoe
took a canoe from
>ien from us in the
It the rain prevented
were forced to wait
int William. In the
)ors, for the purpose
been the most kind
: therefore gave him
! have received from
titude, the gift of all
Delashelwit, we gave
d among the natives
le fort, to the follow-

edium of some civil-
known to the world,
les are hereunto an-
rf the United States
nerica, did penetrate
a Rivers, to the dis-
they arrived on the
[day of March, 1806,
route by which they

loaded, and at one
t Clatsop. The wind
thout provisions was
oint William." Hav-
;he river without any
3d from some Indians

CAPTAIN CLARKK'S SORCERY.

177

descending the river that there was a great scarcity of provisions in the
neighborhood of the Great Rapids. They accordingly decided to re-
main at their present encampment, near the mouth of the Quicksand
River, until they had collected meat enough to last them to the Choppun-
nish nation, with whom they had left their horses. Parties were accord-
ingly se.it out to hunt, and in a week they had collected and dried a
sufficient quantity of meat for their purpose.

Meanwhile they heard of a large river which empties into the south
side of the Columbia a few miles below, and Captain Clarke set out on
the 2d, with one of his informants as giude, to search for it. Proceed-
ing down the south side of the river a few hours, he landed at a house
which was recognized as the only remains of a village of twenty-four
straw-huts which they had seen the preceding fall. Along the shore
were great numbers of small canoes for gathering wappatoo, loft by the
Shahalas, who visit the place annually, and the inhabitants of the house
belonged to a tribe of the same nation. On entering one of the apart-
ments, Captain Clarke offered several articles in exchange for wappatoo,
but they appeared sullen and ill-humored, and refused to give him any.
He therefore sat down by the fire, oi)posite to the men, and taking a
port-fire match from his pocket, threw a small piece of it into the flame ;
at the same time he took his pocket compass, and by means of a magnet
which happened to be in his inkhom, made the needle turn round very
briskly. The match now took fiie and burned violently, on which the
Indians, terrified at this strange exhibition, immediately brought a
quantity of wappatoo and laid it at his feet, begging him to put out
the bad fire ; while an old woman continued to speak with great vehe-
mence, as if praying and imploring protection. Having received the
roots, Captain Clarke put up the compass, and as the match went out
of itself, tranquillity was restored, though the women and children still
took refuge in their beds, and behind the men. He now paid for what
he had used, and after I'jhting his pipe, and smoking with them, he
continued down the river. He found the mouth of a large river, called
Multnomah by the Indians, which a cluster of islands had concealed
from them in their p&^aage down and up the Columbia. From its
entrance Mount St. Helen's bore north, Mount Hood due east, and Cap-
tain Clarke now discovered to the south-east a mountain which ho had
not before seen, and to which he gave the name of Mount Jelfei-son.
Like St. Helen's, its figure was a regular cone, and it appeared to be of
equal height with that mountain. He entered the Multnomah which he
ascended several miles, and found to be a fine navigable river, held
some intercourse with the natives on its banks, and returned to the
camp on the evening of the 3d.

On the 9th they continued their journey and reached the first rapids.
During the whole day they passed along under high, steep, and rocky
sides of the mountains, which at length closed in on each side of the
river, forming stupendous precipices, covered with fir and white cedar.

f*^

••V"

— • ^

178 TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

"^%Vr clay the preparations were made for a portage, which wa. be-
1 the nth by nearly the whole party, who dragged four of the
gun on the nth, 77^"^., ^ith „reat difficulty and labor. A
canoes to .^^^^ ^^^f ,^ ^tlaS a^^^^^

StS^sre:e-;:^c:^^^^^^^^^^ ^-s

*\ v^nta nnfl in several instances seemed very ill disposea. omv ,
them before they had time 10 uraw afterward it M'as found

any baggage, or msu ted the n^«"' ™' Wahclellahs who seemed

'""i porioque «a, lost in .1,0 rapids, and to replace ■». Capt^^ U^^

Vi J. fV,r. I'lth two small canoes, in exchange for two robes ana

C\7k;rns Th y lo purchased, ;ith deer-skins, three dogs an

a .-..T!::" "iM, ,v.s oonsidcrcd a, *ci,arV..gevof vast .»«aU.-

RKE.

uitiful cascades, one
ndicular rock three
streams precipitate
porating in a mist,
y reach the bottom

rtagc, which was be-
dragged four of the
iculty and labor. A
ith Captain Le\vis to
clellahs to be great
numbers saved them
they were taking up
11 disposed. Shields,
and being separated
I out of the road and
10 weapon but a long
both, hoping to kill
s, but as soon as they
fterward it was found
i's dog to their village
dispatched in pursuit
;est resistance or hesi-
Insight of the thieves,
id made off. The In-
old that whoever stole
istantly shot. During
ihclellahs who seemed
of the Indians, which,
men belonging to the

(lace it. Captain Lewis
mgo for two robes and
r-skins, three dogs, an
18 it was found to be a
Ik, and much superior
joined the other boats,
ined their journey next
►f seven paces over the
ts, reloaded, and at the
>t of the long narrows.
!ure horses, and having
se over the portage on
above the rapids.
Lo-day at having caught
binger of vast quantities

A DISAGREEABLE TRIBE.

179

in four or five days. In order to hasten their arrival, the Indians, accord-
ing to custom, dressed the fish and cut it into small pieces, one of which
w.''.s given to each child in the village. In the good humor excited by
this occurrence they parted, though reluctantly, with four other horses,
for ^vhich Ave gave them two kettles, reserving only a single small one
for a mess of eight men. Unluckily, however, wo lost one of the horses
by the negligence of the person to whose charge he was committed."

On the morning* of the 21st the canoes were dispatched to the Enoc-
shur village at the Grand Falls, whither Captain Clarke had preceded
them in order to barter for horses. The rest of the party were detained
in searching for a horse that had broken loose in the night. In the
mean time the Indians, who were always oa the alert, stole a tomahawk,
which was not recovered, though several of them were searched. An-
other fellow was detected in carrying off a piece of iron, and kicked out
of camp. Captain Lewis then, addressing the Indiana, declared that he
was not afraid to fight them, for, if he chose, he might instantly put
them to death and burn their village ; that he did not wish to treat them
ill if they did not steal ; and that although if he knew who had the
tomahawk he would take away the horses of the thieves, yet he woidd
rather lose the property altogether than take the horse of an innocent
man. The chiefs were present at this harangue, hung their heads, and
made no reply. At ten o'clock the men returned with the horse, and
they left these disagreeable people. They found Captain Clarke at the
Eneeshnr village, and being here joined by the canoes and baggage
across the portage, they proceeded a short distance above the town,
where they dined on some dogs, and then set fonvard. They encamped
near a village at the Rock Rapids on the 23d, and having assembled the
warriors and smoked with them, they entertained them with the violin
and a dance by the men. The Indians returned the compliment in a
dance that was new to the travelers, and then retired, promising to bar-
ter horses in the morning. Three horses were then purchased, and three
more hired of a Chopunnish Indian who was to accompany the expedi-
tion with his family. They also promised to take the canoes in exchange
for horses, but finding the white men had resolved to go by land, they
refused to give any thing, in hopes they would be forced to leave them.
Disgusted at this conduct, the men began to split them in pieces, on
which the Indians gave several strands of beads for each canoe. Hav-
ing now a suflicient number of horses, they proceeded wholly by land.

As they advanced up the river, they found the inhabitants more kind
and hospitable. After a long march on the 27th, they had encamped
and were cooking some jerked meat, when they were joined by a party
of Wollawollahs, among whom was a chief named Yellept, who had
visited them in October. He was mi.ch pleased at seeing them again,
and invited them to remain at his village three or four days, when he
would supply them with food and furnish horses for the journey. After
their late experience this kind offer was truly acceptable, and tliey went

180

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

with liim to his village six miles above, and twelve miles below the mouth
of Lewis's Kiver. Yellept then harangued his people on the virtues of
hospitality, and set them an example by bringing an annful of wood
and a platter of roasted mullets. They immediately began by furnishmg
an abundance of the only fuel they use, the stems of plants. The trav-
elers then purchased four dogs, on which they supped heartUy, having
been on short allowance for two days past.

The Indians informed them of a route opposite their village to the
mouth of the Kooskooskee, much shorter than that by Lewis's River, and
passing over a level, watered country, abounding in deer and antelope.
As there were no houses on this road, they thought it prudent to lay m
a stock of provisions, and accordingly, next morning, purchased ten dogs.
Meanwhile Yellept presented a fine white horse to Captain Clarke, ex-
pressing a wish to have a kettle ; but on being told that they had dis-
posed of the last one they could spare, he said he would be content with
any present they should make in return. Captain Clarke therefore gave
his sword, for M'hich the chief had before expressed a desire, adding
one hundred balls, some powder, and other articles, with which he ap-
peared perfectly satisfied. Fortunately there was here a Shoshonee
prisoner, from the south of the Multnomah, who spoke the same language
as the Shoshonee woman Sacajawea, and by their means Lewis and
Clarke were able to explain themselves intelligibly to the Indians. The
latter were inspired with confidence, and soon brought several sick per-
sons requiring assistance. They splintered the arm of one, and admm-
istered remedies for various diseases ; but their most valuable medicme
was eye-water, which was greatly needed : the complaint of the eyes,
occasioned by living on the water, and increased by the fine sand of the
plsuns, being now universal.

On the 29th, they crossed the river in the canoes of Yellept. In the
course of the day they gave smaU medals to two inferior chiefs, each of
whom made them a present of a fine horse. They were in a poor con-
dition to make an adequate acknowledgment for this kindness, but gave
several articles, among which was a pistol, and several rounds of ammu-
nition. They felt indeed that they had been treated by these people
with an imusual degree of kmdness. They finally took leave of this
honest, worthy tribe, and, accompanied by a guide and the Chopun-
nish famUy, set off across an open sandy plain, on the 30th. They had
now twenty-three horses, many of them young and excellent animals,
but the greater part afflicted with sore backs. The Indians m general
are cruel masters; they ride very hard, and as the saddles are badly
constructed it is almost impossible to avoid wounding the back, yet they
continue to ride when the poor creatures are scarified m a dreadful

manner. , -rr i i

They reached Lewis's River a few mUes above the Kooskooskee, on
the 4th of May, and next day continued their journey up the latter
river. As they proceeded they frequently met old acquamtances of last

liii

IKE.

Ds below the mouth
; on the virtues of
in annful of wood
)egan by furnishing
plants. The trav-
ed heartily, having

their village to the
r Lewis's River, and
deer and antelope,
it prudent to lay in I
purchased ten dogs.
Captain Clarke, ex-
. that they bad dis-
mid be content with
larke therefore gave
led a desire, addbg
, with which ho ap-
3 here a Shoshonee
ce the same language
r means Lewis and
to the Indians. The
ght several sick per-
L of one, and admin-
st valuable medicine
mplaint of the eyes,
\f the fine sand of the

MEETING WITH TWISTED HAIB.

181

jsofYellept. In the
ferior chiefs, each of
were in a poor con-
is kindness, but gave
eral rounds of aramu-
ted by these people
ly took leave of this
de and the Chopun-
tbe 30th. They had
id excellent animals,
e Indians in general
le saddles are badly
Bg the back, yet they
sarified in a dreadful

the Kooskooskee, on
ourney up the latter
acquwntances of last

year, and always found that their kindness had not been bestowed on
the natives in vain. On the 6th, an Indian gave Captain Clarke a very
elegant gray mare, for which all ho requested was a phial of eye-water.
In the autumn, at the mouth of the Chopunnish River, a man Avith pain
in his knee was brought to them for relief. He was, to appearance,
recovered from his disorder, though he had not walked for some time.
But that they might not be disappointed, Captain Clarke, with much
ceremony, washed and rubbed his sore limb, and gave him some vol-
atile liniment to continue the operation, which caused, or rather did not
prevent, his recovery. The man grateflilly circulated their praises, and
their &mo as phyricians was increased by the efficiency of some eye-
water which they gave them at the same time. This new resource of
obtaining subsistence was not unwelcome, now, when their stock of
merchandise was very much reduced. So great was the fame of their
medical skill, that when they encamped that evening at Colter's Creek,
they soon had nearly fifty patients. A chief brought his wife with an
abscess in her back, which Captain Clarke opened and dressed, and then
distributed medicines to others. Next day the woman declared she had
slept better than at any time since her illness. She was therefore dressed
a second time, and her husband, according to promise, brought them
a horse which they immediately killed. Their practice now increased
so long as they remained. When they had gone a few miles further
an Indian brought them two canisters of powder, which his dog had
found. They recognized them as the same they had buried last fall,
and as he had kept them sately, and had honesty enough to return
them, they rewarded him as weU as they could.

In crossing the plain they saw that the Rocky Mountains were still
covered with snow, which the Indians informed tbem was so deep that
they would not be able to pass before the 1st of June, and some
placed the time later. As they were very desirous of reaching the
plains of the Missouri, if for no other reason than that of once more
enjoying a good meal, this intelligence was most unwelcome, and
gave no relish to the remainder of the horse killed at Colter's Creek,
which formed their supper, and part of which had already been their
dinner.

On the 8th, they met with the Twisted Hair, the chief to whom
they had confided their horses, and part of their saddles, but as he
received them with great coldness they formed very unfavorable con-
jectures. They soon found that a violent quarrel had arisen between
him and Neeshnepahkeeook, the Cutnose, who now addressed each other
in a loud, angry manner. They interposed, and all went forward to
a place of encampment ; the two chiefs forming separate camps, at a
distance from each other. Anxious to reconcile the chiefs, and recover
their property, they desired a Shoshonee, who had been with the party
some days, to interpret while they attempted a mediation ; but he per-
emptorily refused to speak a word, for fear of meddling in a private

'!•'

40,

182

TEAVBLS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

quarrel where he had no right to interfere. The TwiHtcd Ilair was ,
afterward invited to come and smoke with them, lie accepted the
invitation, and informed them that he had, accordmg to promise, col-
lected the horses, and taken charge of them ; but that Nceshnepah- ,
keeook, and Tunnachemootoolt (the Cutnose, and Brokenarm), .^ho had ;
been on a war party against the Shoshonees, returned, and bccommg ,
iealous because the horses were confided to his care, wore constantly
quarreling with him. At length, unwilling to live in perpetual dispute
with the two chiefs, he had given up the care of the horses, which had
consequently become much scattered. He added that m the spring the ,
earth had fallen away and exposed the saddles, some of which had ,
probably been lost, but that he had buried them m another deposit
Next day he brought m about half the saddles, and some powoer and
lead which was buried at the same place; and soon afterward tie In-
dians brought m about twenty-one of the horses, the greater part ot
which were in exceUent order, though some had not yet recovered fiom
hard usage. The Cutnose and Twisted Hair seemed now perfectly le- ,
concUed, and both slept in the house of the former. The party set for- j
ward next morning, and in the afternoon arrived at the house of Broken- !
arm. where they were received with due form under a flag which they ,
had given him. In the evening the people brought them a large supply
of roots, for which they thanked them, but remarked that they were not
accustomed t. live on roots alone, and therefore proposed to exchange
a good horse, which was lean, for one that was fatter, which they might
kin The chief said that his people had an abundance of young horses,
and that if their guests were disposed to use that food, they might have
as many as they wanted. Accordmgly they soon gave them two fat
young horses, without asking any thing in return. , ,,

During their stay they were visited by several Indians, and on the
11th, find^g some of the principal chiefe of the Chopunnish nation pres-
ent, they took the opportunity to explain the intentions of the govern-
ment They drew a map of the relative situation of the country on a
mat with a piece of coal, .nen detaUed the nature and power of the
American nation, its desire to preserve harmony between all its red
brethren, and its intention of establiahmg tradmg houses for theu-^rehef
and support. " It was not without difficulty, nor till neariy half the day
was spent, that we were able to convey all this mformation to the Cho-
punnish, much of which might have been lost or distorted m the c"-emt.
ous route through a variety of languages: for m the first Pl^^^'^^ «P«^^
in English to one of our men, who translated it into French to Chabo-
neau ; he interpreted it to his wife in the Minnetaree language, and she
then put it uito Shoshonee, and the young Shoshonee prisoner explamed
it to ihe Chopunnish in their own dialect. At last we succeeded m com-
municating the impression they wished, and then adjourned the comics ,
after which we amused them by showing the wonders of the compass
the spy-glass, the magnet, the watch, and air-gmi, each of which attracted

ARKE.

Twisted Hair was

ilc accepted the

rdiiig to promise, col-

ut tliat Necshnepah-

Brokcnarm), vho had

urncd, and becoming

care, wore constantly

in perpetual disputn

the horses, which had

that in the spring tho

, some of which had

m in another deposit.

and some powder and

3on afterward the In-

ics, the greater pait of

not yet recovered fiom

emed now perfectly le-

ler. The party set foi •

at the house of Brokcn-

ider a flag which they

^ht them a large supply

:ked that they were not

i proposed to exchange

atter, which they might

idance of young horses,

,t food, they might have

)on gave them two fat

ral Indians, and on th»
Chopunnish nation pres-
ntentions of the govern-
on of the country on a
iture and power of the
)ny between all its red
ig houses for their relief
r till nearly half the day
information to the Cho-
' distorted in the circuit-
the first place, we spoke
t into French to Chabo-
3taree language, and she
lonee prisoner explained
ist we succeeded in com-
n adjourned the councV. ;
londers of the compass,
, each of which attracted

FRIENDLY COUNCILS.

188

its share of attention. They said that after wc had left tho Minnetarccs
last autumn three young Chopunnish had gone ov»'r to that nation, who
had mentioned our visit, and tho extraordinary articles we had with us,
but they had placed no confidence in it till now."

Next day the chiefs and warriors held a council to decide on llu-i •
answer, and the result was that they resolved to follow the advice of the
white men.

The principal chief, Tunnachemootoolt, then took a quantity of flour
of roots, and thickened the soup which his people were cooking, and
making known the determination of the chiefs, uivited all who agreed
to the proceedings of tho council to come and cat, while those who dis-
sented Avould abstain from the feast. Meanwhile tho women, probably
uneasy at the prospect of this new connection with strangers, tore their
hair and wrung their hands with tho greatest appearance of distress.
But the concluding appeal of the orator eflectualiy stopped tho mouth
of every malcontent i tho pioceedings were ratified, and tho mush de-
voured with the most zealous unanimity. The chiefs and warriors then
came in a body to Lewis and Clarke, and at their instance two young
men presented each of them with a fine horse. The latter then gave
flags and presents to the chiefs and the two young men, after which the
chiei's invited them to their tent to receive their answer, but stated also
that many of their people were then waiting in great pain for medical
assistance. Captain Clarke, who was the favorite physician, therefore
went to visit the sick, while Captain Lewis attended the council.

The meeting was opened by an aged chief, who delivered a long
speech in approbation of the advice they had received, expressing their
desire to be at peace with all their neighbors. They had fought with tho
Shoshonees, because the latter had slain their messengers of peace ; but
now, having avenged the insult, they would receive them as friends.
They would send some of their young men with the expedition if they
would eflfect a peace with the Indians on the Missouri, and then the whole
nation would go over next summer. They had not yet decided to send
a chief with the white men to their country, but would let them know
before they left. The whites might depend on their attachment and
their best services, for though poor, their hearts were good. Captain
Lewis replied at some length. They appeared highly gratified, and after
smoking the pipe, made him a present of another fat horse for food. He
in turn gave Brokenarm a phial of eye-water for all who would apply to
him, and promised to fill it again ; at which liberality the chief was
much pleased. To Twisted Hair, who had collected six more horses, he
gave a gun, a hundred balls, and two pounds of powder, promising the
same quantity when they received the remainder of their horses. In
the course of the day three more were brought in, and a fresh exchange
of small presents put the Indians in excellent humor. Having settled all
their aflairs, the Indians separated into two parties, and began to play the
game of hiding a bone for stakes of beads and other ornaments.

■)i

184

TRAVELS OP LEWIS AND CLARKE.

On tho 14th, Lewis and Clarke transported nil their bagRaRO and
swam their horaes across the river, and formed their ciunp a short <li8-
tanco below, on a spot recommended by tho Indians. As they were to
pass some time in this neighborhood, wbilo waiting for tho snow on the
mountains to melt, they sent out a number of hunters in different direc-
tions ; tho rest, who were well, were employed in completing the camp.
They secured the baggage with a shelter of grass, and made a kind of
tent of part of an old sail, while tho men formed very comfortable huts
of willow-poles and grass. In a few days it rained, and the flimsy cover-
ing of Lewis and Clarke so leaked that they were in water most of the
time, and, what was more unlucky, their chronometer became wet and
rusted. Tlie men built a canoe, for which the Indians promised a horso
when they should set out. The hunters brought nothing but a sandhill
crane, and, as they usually met with ill success, the last morsel of meat
was eaten. As there was now little hope of procuring a stock of dried
meat, they made a division of all tho merchandise, so as to enable tho
men to purchase a store of roots and bread for the mountains. On par-
celing out the stores, the stock of each man was found to consist of only
one awl, and one knitting-pin, half an ounce of vermilion, two needles,
a few skeins of thread, and about a yard of ribbon — but slender means
of bartering for a subsistence, but the men had been now so much accus-
tomed to privations, that neither tho want of meat nor the scanty funds
of the party, excited the least anxiety among them.

" Besides administering medical relief to the Indians," says the nar-
rative, " we arc obliged to devote much of our time to the care of our
own invalids. The child of Sacajawea is very unwell ; and with ono of
the men we have ventured an experiment of a very robust nature. He
has been for some time sick, but has now recovered his flesh, eats heart-
ily, and digests well, but has so great a weakness in the loins that he
can not walk, nor even sit upright without extreme pain. After we had
in vain exhausted tho resources of our art, one of the hunters mentioned
that ho had known persons in similar situations restored by violent
sweats, and at the request of the patient we permitted the remedy to be
applied. For this purpose a hole, ab-ut four feet deep and three in
diameter, was dug in the earth, and heated well by a large Are in the
bottom of it. The fire was then taken out, and an arch foimed over the
whole by means of willow-poles, and covered with several blankets, so
as to make a perfect awning. The patient, being stripped naked, was
seated under this on a bench, with a piece of board for his feet, and with
a jug of water we sprinkled the bottom and sides of the hole, so as to
keep up as hot a steam as he could bear. After remuning twenty min-
utes in this situation he was taken out, immediately plunged twice in
cold water, and brought back to the hole, where he resumed the vapor
bath. During all this time he drank copiously of a strong infusion of
horse-mint, which was used as a substitute for the seneca-root, which our
informant said he had seen employed on these occasions, but of which

LKE.

(heir bngRaRC and

cuinp a Hhort difi-

As they were to

for the snow on the

8 in different direc-

mplcting the camp.

Ind made n kind of

ry comfortable huts

nd the fliniHy cover-

water most of the

er became wet and

ns promised a horse

othing but a sandhill

! last morsel of meat

ing a stock of dried

so as to enable the

mountains. On par-

md to consist of only

rmilion, two needles,

— but slender means

n now so much accus-

nor the scanty funds

idians," says the nar-
le to the care of our
^ell ; and with one of
■y robust nature. He
id his flesh, eats heart-
9 in the loins that ho

pain. After we had
;he hunters mentioned
3 restored by violent
tted the remedy to be
jet deep and three in
by a large Are in the

1 arch formed over the
;h several blankets, so
g stripped naked, was
I for his feet, and with
i of the hole, so as to
emaining twenty min-
tely plunged twice in
he resumed the vapor
: a strong infusion of
seneca-root, which our
icasions, but of which

TRK VAPOR CUUE.

186

there is nono in this country. At the end of three quarters of an hour
he wiia again withdrawn from the hole, carefully wrapped, and Huffercd
to cool {j;radually. The next morning he walked about, and was nearly
free from pain.

"An Indian was brought in to-day who had lost the use of his limbs,
and for whose recovery the natives seemed very anxious, as he is a chief
of considerable rank among them. His situation is beyond the reach of
our skill." On the 25th, they attempted to sweat him, but found he was
too weak, and had to desist. The Indians who accompanied him were
so anxious for his safety that they still remained, and on the 27th had
the operation of sweating again attempted. Tlio hole was therefore
enlarged, and the father of the chief went in with him and held him in a
proper position. *' Wo could not produce as complete a perspiration as
we desired, and after ho was taken out ho complained of suffering con-
siderable pain, which we relieved with a few drops of laudanum, and
then he rested well. Next morning ho was able to use his arms, felt
better than ho had for many months, and sat up during the greater part
of the day. * ♦ ♦ 29th. TJie Indian chief is still rapidly recovering,
and for the first time during the last twelve months, had strength enough
to wash his face. "We had intended to repeat his sweating to-day, but
as the weather was cloudy, with occasional rain, we declined it. This
operation, though violent, seems highly eflicacious ; for our own man,
on whom the experiment was first made, is recovering his strength very
fast, and the restoration of the chief is wonderful." Ho continued to
improve, and on the following day, after a violent sweating, was able to
move one of his legs, and thighs, and some of his toes ; the fingers and
arms berng almost entirely restored to their former strength.

On the Ist of Juno their stock of merchandise was completely ex-
hausted, and as yet they had no adequate supplies for the mountains.
Being anxious to provide against the cold and hunger which they had
to encounter on the passage, they created a new fund by cutting off the
buttons from their clothes, preparing eye-water, and adding some small
articles that had been in use. With this cargo two men set out on the
2d to trade, and brought home three bushels of roots and some bread,
which, in their situation, was as important as the return of an East In-
dia ship. Another party returned from Lewis's River with roots and
salmon, but the distance was so great that most of the fish was nearly
spoiled. They continued hunting in the neighborhood, and by their own
exertions and trading with the Indians, succeeded in procuring as much
bread and roots, besides other food, as would enable them to subsist dur-
ing the passage of the mountains.

On the 10th, they collected their horses and set out for the Quamash
Flats, where they intended to hunt for a few days before proceeding to
the mountains. In this they were not very successful ; therefore, on the
morning of the 16th, they collected their straggling hovaes and proceeded.
On the 11th they found themselves enveloped in snow, from twelve to

i.'f

186

TRAVELS OP LEWIS AND CLARKE.

fifteen feet deep, eveu on the south side of the mountain. The air was
keen and cold, no vestige of vegetation was to be seen, and their hands
and fuot were benumbeil. The snow bore their horses, and rendered the
traveling far easier than it was during their outward journey. But it
weald require five days to pass over, the danger of missing the vay was
great, and durhig this time there would be no chanee of finding cither
grass or underwood for the horses. They therefore decided to venture
no further. The baggage and provisions, together with instruments
and papers, were deposited on scaffolds and carefully covered. They
then rot out at one o'clock, and retracing their steps, encamped on Hun-
gry Creek, at a spot where they found some scanty grass. In the hope
of procuring a guide they went back to the Flats on the 21st, and in the
evening found themselves at their old encampment, where the hunters
had killed a deer for supper. Next day all the hunters were out, and
brought in eight deer and three bear.

Having obtained guides, they set out at an early hour on the 24th,
• on a second attempt to cross the mountains. Pursuing their former
route, they arrived at Hungry Creek on the evening of the 25th, and
next morning began once more to ascend the ridge of mountains. On
reaching the top, they found their deposit perfectly untouched. The
snow had melted nearly four feet since the seventeenth. They arranged
their baggage, took a hasty meal, and hastened on, as they had a long
ride before reaching a spot \/here there was grass for the horses. They
continued their route along the mountain-ridge, where sometimes they
were so completely inclosed by mountains that, hlthough they had once
passed them, they would have despaired of finding their way out through
the snow, but for the Indians. The marks on the trees, which had been
their chief dependence, were fewer and more indistinct than they had
supposed; but their guides traversed this trackless region with a kind of
instinctive sagacity ; they never hesitated, were never embarrassed ; yet
so undeviating was their step, that wherever the snow had disappeared,
for even a few paces, they found the summer road. On the 29th, the
ridge they had been following for several days terminated, and, leaving
the snows, they descended to the main branch of the Kooskooskee.

" July 1. — We had now made one hundred and fifty-six miles from the
Quamash Flats to the mouth of Traveler's Rest Creek. This being the
pouit where we proposed to separate, it was resolved to remain a day or
two in order to refresh ourselves and the horses. We now formed the
following plan of operations : Captain Lewis, with nine men, is to pursue
the most direct route to the falls of the Missouri, where three of his party
are to prepare carriages for transporting the baggage and canoes across
the portage. With the remaining six he will ascend Maria's ■*•" ' er to
explore the country, and ascertahi whether any branch of it reaches as
for north as the latitude of fifty degrees, after which he will descend that
river to its mouth. The rest of the men will accompany Captain Clarke
to the head of Jefferson River, which Sergeant Ordway and a party of

RKE.

)untaui. The air was
seen, and their hands
rses, and rendered the
ard journey. But it
missing the vay was
nee of finding cither
re decided to venture
ler with instruments
fully covered. They
)s, encamped on Hun-
,y grass. In the hope
on the 21st, and in the
nt, where the hunters
hunters were out, and

arly hour on the 24th,
Pursuing their former
ning of the 25th, and
ge of mountains. On
ctly untouched. The
eenth. They aiTanged
)n, as they had a long
for the horses. They
where sometimes they
though they had once
; their way out through
! trees, which had been
distinct than they had
IS region with a kind of
lever embarrassed ; yet
snow had disappeared,
ad. On the 29th, the
M-minated, and, leaving
the Kooskooskee.
I fifty-six miles from the
>eek. This being the
ved to remain a day or
We now formed the
I nine men, is to pursue
vhere three of his party
gage and canoes across
iccnd Maria's ^' ' er to
)ranch of it reaches as
ch he will descend that
)mpany Captain Clarke
Ordway and a party of

THE PARTY SEPARATES.

187

nine men will descend with the canoes and other articles deposited there.
Captain Clarke's party, which will then be reduced to ten, will proceed
to the Yellowstone, at its nearest approach to the three forks of the Mis-
souri. There he will build canoes, and go down that river with seven of
his party, and wait at its mouth till the rest of the party join him. Ser-
geant Pry or, with two others, will then take the horses by land to the
Mandans. From that nation he is to go to the British posts on the A^
siniboin, with a letter i'> Mr. Henry, to procure his endeavors to prevail
on some of the Sioux chiefs to accompany him to the city of Washing-
ton."

" July 3. — All our preparations being completed, we saddled our
horses, and the two parties who had been so long companions, now sepa-
rated, with an anxious hope of soon meeting, after each had accomplished
the purpose of its destination."

Captain Lewis proceeded down Clarke's River to the mouth of the
Cokalaliishkit, or, " River of the Road to Bufialoes," by which they as-
cended to the dividing ridge, and reached the Missouri at Whitebear Is-
land, above the falls, on the 11th of July. They crossed over, and on
the 13th formed a camp at their old station, near the head of the White-
bear Island. On opening the deposit, they found the bearskins entirely
destroyed by the water which, during a flood, had penetrated to them.
All the specimens of plants were lost ; the chart of the Missouri, how-
ever, still remained unhurt, and several articles contained in trunks and
boxes had sufiered but little injury. They proceeded to make prepara-
tions for transporting the articles, and on the 15th sent M'Neal to exam-
ine the deposit at the lower end of the portage. He returned at night,
however, without having reached the place. Near Willow Run he ap-
proached a thicket in which was a white bear, which he did not discover
until he was within ten feet of him. His horse started, and wheeling
suddenly around, threw him almost immediately imder the bear. He
started up instantly, and as the bear was rising up to attack him, struck
it on the head with the butt of his musket. The blow was so violent
that it broke the musket and knocked the bear to the ground, and before
he recovered, M'Neal sprang up a willow-tree, where he remained closely
guarded by the bear until late in the afternoon. The beast then went
off, and M'Neal, being released, came down, and having found his horse,
which had strayed two miles away, returned to camp.

Leaving Sergeant Gass with two men and four horses to assist in car-
rying the effects over the portage. Captain Lewis, with Drewyer and the
two Fields, proceeded, with six horses, toward the sources of Maria's
River. After a week's travel they halted at a place ten miles from the
foot of the Rocky Mountains, whence they could trace the river to its
egress from the mountains, and as this was to the south of west, they
concluded they had reached its most northern point. They therefore
remained here to make observations. The weather was cloudy, and after
waiting a few days in viun, they mounted their horses on the 20tb, and

188

TRAVELS OP LEWIS AND CLARKE.

Bet out on thoir return. They had proceeded several miles, and Drew-
yer had gone forward on the other side of the river, when Captain Lewis,
who, with his party, had ascended the hills by the river's side, saw, at
the distance of a mile, about thirty horses, half of which Avere saddled ;
on an eminence above them several Indians were looking down toward
the river, probably at Drewyer. He feared some evil design, but 'e-
solved to make the best of the situation, and advanced in a friendly
manner. Their attention was so engaged upon Drewyer that tuey did
not at first sec the approaching party ; when they did they were alarmed,
and ran about in confusion. Afterward they collected as if to await them.
An Indian mounted and rode at full speed toward them, but after halt-
ing for some time he hastened back to his companions. The whole party
then descended the hill and rode toward them. When they came near,
all the Indians but one stopped. Captain Lewis ordered the two men
to halt, while he advanced and shook hands with the Indian, and then
with his companions. They now all came up, and the Indians proposed
to smoke. Captain Lewis found, by signs, that they were Minnetarees
of the north, and that there were three chiefs in the party. Though he
did not believe them, yet he thought best to please them, and he gave
to one a flag, to another a medal, and to a third a handkerchief. They
seemed well satisfied, and now recovered from their alarm, while Lewis's
party were equally satisfied that the Indians, only eight in number, were
joined by no more of their companions. Being joined by Drewyer,
they proceeded to the river, and all encamped together in an IndiaiJ
tent of buffalo skins, where, by means of Drewyer, the evening was
spent in conversation with the Indians.

In the morning the latter watched their opportunity and made off
with the rifles of the party. As soon as Fields, who was on guard, per-
ceived them, he called his brother, and pursued the one who had taken
both their rifles. In their scuflle he stabbed the Indian, and he fell.
Drewyer, being awake, wrested his gun from the fellow who seized it,
and Captain Lewis, awakened by the noise, reached to seize his gun, but
finding it gone, drew a pistol and followed the Indian who was runnmg
off with it. He ordered him to lay it down, which was done just as the
others were about to shoot him. Captain Lewis forbid them, but find-
ing that the Indians were now driving off the horses, he sent three of
them in pursuit, with orders to fire on the thieves, while he pursued
the fellow who had stolen his gun, and another Indian, who were driving
away the horses on the other side. He pressed them so closely that they
left twelve of their own horses, but still made off vrith one of Lewis's.
As they entered a niche in the bluffs, Captain Lewis called out, as he
did several times before, that unless they gave up the horse he would
shoot them. As he raised his gun one jumped behind a rock, and Cap-
tain Lewis shot the other. He fell, but rising a little, fired, and then
crawled behind a rock. Lewis, who was bare-headed, felt the wind of
his ball ; not having his shot-pouch, he now thought it most prudent to ;

A RACK FOR LIFE.

189

niles, and Drew-

n Captain Lewis,

r's side, saw, at

1 were saddled ;

ig down toward

design, but '•e-

ed in a friendly

er that iuej did

y were alarmed,

if to await them.

but after halt-

The whole party

they came near,

ed the two men

[ndian, and then

[ndians proposed

ere Minnetarees

rty. Though he

em, and he gave

Ikerchief. They

•m, while Lewis's

in number, were

ed by Drewyer,

tier in an Indiaii

the evening was

ity and made off
as on guard, per-
le who had taken
lian, and he fell.
)W who seized it,
seize his gun, but
who was running
I done just as the
I them, but find-
lie sent three of
phile he pursued
vho were driving

closely that they
> one of Lewis's.
;allcd out, as he

horse he would
a rock, and Cap-
), fired, and then
felt the wind of
most prudent to

retire. The other men pursued the Indians until two of them swam the
river, and two climbed the hills, and then returned with four horses. In
the contest they lost one horae, but gained four of the Indiiins', besides
which they found in the camp four shields, two bows with quivers, and
one of their guns, which they took with them, as well as the flag they
had given to the Indians, but left the medal around the neck of the dead
man to inform the tribe who they were.

As there was no time to lose, they ascended the river-hill and set off
across the level plains toward the south-east, over which they pushed
their horses with all possible speed. Fortunately the Indian horses were
good, and the road smooth, so that when they halted at three o'clock
they had made, by estimate, sixty-three miles. They rested an hour and
a hal^ and then rode seventeen miles further, when, as night came on,
they killed a buffalo, and again stopped for two hours. Tlie moon gave
light enough to show the route, and they continued along through im-
mense herds of buffalo for twenty miles, when, almost exhausted, they
halted at two in the morning. At day-light they awoke, sore and
scarcely able to stand, but as their omi lives, as well as those of their
companions, depended on their passing forward, they mounted their
horses and set off. At the distance of twelve miles they came near the
Missouri, when they heard a noise like the report of a gun. They
quickened their pace for eight miles further, when they heard distinctly
the noise of several rifles from the river. They hurried to the bank and
saw with joy their friends coming down the stream. Turning loose their
horses, they embarked with their baggage, and all proceeded down to
the spot where they had deposited some goods. Most of the articles
were injured, but they took what was worth preserving, and immediately
proceeded to the Point, where the deposits were found in good order.
Here they were fortunately joined by Gass and Willard from the Falls,
and proceeding down the river together, they encamped fifteen miles be-
low. Sergeant Ordway's party, which had left the mouth of Madison
River on the 13th, had descended in safety to the Whitebear Islands,
where they arrived on the 19th, and after collecting the baggage, left the
Falls on the 27th in a perioque and five canoes, while Sergeant Gass and
Willard set out at the same time by land with the horses, and thus for-
tunately the three parties met at the same time.

On the 29th the united party proceeded with the aid of a strong cur-
rent, and reached the mouth of the Yellowstone on the Tth of August,
where they found a note from Captain Clarke, stating that he would
wait for them a few miles below. Not meeting with him next day, they
landed, and began to calk and repair their canoes, and also to repair
some sWns for clothing ; for smce leaving the Rocky Mountains, they
had not had leisure to make clothes, and the greater part of the men
were almost naked. On the 11th they went forward rapidly, hoping to
reach the Burned Hills by noon, in order to ascertain the latitude, but ar-
riving too late, Captain Lewis went with Cruzatte in pursuit of a herd

190

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

of elk which thoy saw. Each of them shot an elk, then reloaded and
took different routes in pursuit of the game, when just as Captain Lewis
was taking aim at an elk, a ball struck him, passing through the left
thigh and grazing the right. Being dressed in brown leather, he thought
Cruzatto had shot him in mistake for an elk. He called several times,
but seeing nothing and receiving no answer, he concluded the shot must
be froit\ an Indian, and therefore made toward the boat, calling out to
Cruzatte to retreat, as there were Indians in the willows. He then or-
dered the men to arms, saying that he was wounded by the Indians, and
bade them follow him to relieve Cruzatte. They went forward until his
wound became so painful that he could go no further. He then ordered
the men to proceed, and if overpowered by numbers, to retreat toward
the boats, keeping up a fire ; then limping back to the boat, he prepared
himself with his rifle, a pistol, and the air-gun, to sell his life dearly in
case the men should be overcome. In this state of anxiety he remained
about twenty minutes, when the pariy returned with Cruzatte, and re-
ported t! <at no Indians were to be seen in the neighborhood. Cruzatto
was nowK'ich alarmed, and declared ho had shot at an elk after Captain
Lewis had left him, but disclaimed every idea of having intentionally
wounded his officer. There was no doubt that he was the one who gave
the woimd, but as it seemed wholly accidental, and he had always con-
ducted himself with propriety, no further notice was taken of it. The
wound was dressed, and though it bled profusely, yet as the ball had
touched neither bone nor artery, they hoped it would not prove fatal.
They then went on till evening, when, as Captain Lewis had a high
fever, and could not be removed without great difficulty, he remained
on board during the night. Next morning they proceeded with all pos-
sible expedition, and soon afterward called at a camp of two Illinois trad-
ers, who said they had seen Captain Clarke the day before. While
they halted, thoy were overtaken by two hunters who had been missing
since the 3d, and whose absence excited much uneasiness. After mak-
ing some presents to the traders they went forward, and at one o'clock
joined their friends and companions under Captain Clarke.

On taking leave of Captain Lewis and the Indians on the 3d of July,
the other division, consisting of Captain Clarke, with fifteen men and
fifty horses, set out in a southern direction through the valley of Clarke's
Iliver. During the next day, they halted at an early hour to do honor
to the birth-day of their country's independence. " The festival was not
very splendid, for it consisted of a mush made of roots and a saddle of
venison, nor had we any thing to tempt us to prolong it." On the 6th
they left the last year's trail and crossed over the dividing ridge to the
waters of Wisdom River, and on the 8th arrived at the forks of the Jef-
ferson, where they had deposited their merchandise in August. " Most
of the men were in the habit of chewing tobacco, and such was their ea-
gerness to procure it, after so long a privation, that they scarcely took
the saddles from their horses before they ran to the cave, and were de-

!n reloaded and
IS Captain Lewis
through the left
ithcr, he thought
ed several times,
ed the shot must
at, calling out to
'8. He then or-
the Indians, and
forward until his
He then ordered

retreat toward
joat, he prepared
his life dearly in
iety he remained
:;3ruzatte, and re-
'hood. Cruzatte
elk afler Captain
ing intentionally
he one who gave
had always con-
akcn of it. The

as the ball had

[ not prove fatal.

ewis had a high

ilty, he remained

ded with all pos-

two Illinois trad-

before. While

ad been missing

ss. Afler mak-

at one o'clock

ce.

1 the 3d of July,
ifteen men and
alley of Clarke's

)ur to do honor
festival was not
s and a saddle of
it." On the 6th
ing ridge to the
forks of the Jef-
August. " Most
icb was their ea-
ey scarcely took
ve, and were de-

DESCENT OP THE YELLOWSTONE.

191

lighted at being able to resume this fascinating indulgence. This was
one of the severest privations we have encountered. Some of the men,
whose tomahawks were so constructed as to answer the purpose of pipes,
broke the handles of these instruments, and after cutting them into small
fragments, chewed them ; the wood having, by frequent smoking, be-
come strongly impregnated with the taste of that plant." They found
every thing safe, though some of the goods were a little damp.

The canoes were raised, and the preparations for the journey all made
by the 10th, when Captain Clarke divided his men into two bands, the
one to descend the river with the baggage, and the other to proceed
with him on horseback to the Yellowstone. After breakfast they set o. "
and at the distance of fifteen miles the two parties stopped to dine, when
Captain Clarke, finding that the river became wider and deeper, and
that the canoes could advance more rapidly than the horses, determined
to go himself by water, leaving Sergeant Pryor with six men to bring
on the horses. They reached the entrance of Madison River at noon on
the 13th, where Sergeant Pryor had arrived with the horses an hour be-
fore. The horses were then driven across Madison and Gallatin Rivers,
and the whole party halted to dine and unload the canoes below the
mouth of the latter. Here the two parties separated ; Sergeant Ordway
with nine men set out in six canoes to descend the river, while Captain
Clarke with the remaining ten, and the wife and child of Chaboneau,
were to proceed by land with fifty horses to Yellowstone River.

They set out at five in the afternoon from the Forks of the Missouri,
in a direction nearly eastward. On the 15th, they pursued a buffalo
road over a low gap in the mountain, to the heads of the eastern fork
of Gallatin River, where they reached the dividing ridge of the Avaters
of the Missouri and the Yellowstone ; and on descending the ridge,
they struck one of the streams of the latter river. Nine miles from the
top of the ridge they reached the Yellowstone itself, about a mile and
a half from where it issues from the Rocky Mountains. They pursued
their journey down the banks of the river until the 20th, when Captain
Clarke determined to make two canoes, which, being lashed together,
might convey the party down the river, while a few men should lead
the horses to the Mandan nation. The horses were turned out to rest
for a few days, but in the morning twenty-four of them were missing,
and although the search for them was continued for several days, they
were not seen afterward. One day a piece of robe and a moccasin were
found not far from the camp, and it became evident that the Indians had
stolen the horses.

At length the canoes were finished and lashed together, and every
thing being prepared, the parties set out on the 24th. Sergeant Pryor
was directed, with Shannon and Windsor, to take the horses to the
Mandans, and if Mr. Henry was on the Assiniboin River, to go thither
and deliver him a letter, the object of which was to prevail on the most
distinguished chiefs of the Sioux to accompany him to Washington.

,:y

192

TRAVELS OP LEWIS AND OLARKl

Captain Clarke embarked on the little flotUla, and proceeded very

steadily down the river. , , , . . ^ ,

At 2 o'clock on the 3d of August, they reached the junction of the
Yellowstone with the 'Missouri, and formed a camp on the point where
they had encamped on the 26th of April, 1805. The canoes were
now unloaded, and the baggago exposed to dry, as many of the artHes
were wet, and some of them spoiled. Next day they found their camp
absolutely uninhabitable m consequence of the multitude of mosquitoes ;
the men could not work in preparing skins for clothing, nor hunt in the
timbered low grounds ; in short, there was no mode of escape except
by going on the sandbars in the river, whero, if the wmd blew, the
insects did not venture ; but when there was no wind, and particularly
at night, they could hardly be endured. Captain Clarke therefore
determined to seek better quarters, and leaving a note on a pole at
the confluence of the two rivers, proceeded down the Missouri.

On the 8th, they were joined by Sergeant Pryor, with Shannon,
Hall, and Wilson, but without the horses. These had been stolen from
them by the Indians on the second night after they had left Captain
Clarke. In the morning they had pursued the tracks five miles, when
they divided into two parties. They followed the larger party five miles
further, tiU they lost aU hope of overtaking the Indians, and returned
to camp; and packing the baggage on their backs pursued a north-
east course toward the Yellowstone. Having reached the nyer, they
descended it in two skin canoes, which they made for the occasion.

In proceeding further down the river. Captain Clarke had stopped
with Dickson and Hancock, two Illmois traders, on the 11th. The party
contmued slowly to descend, when, on the 12th, one of the skm canoes
was by accident pierced with a small hole, and while they stopped to
mend it, they were overjoyed at seeing Captain Lewis's boats heave m
sight about noon. But they were alarmed on seeing the boats reach
the shore without Captain Lewis, who, they learned, had been wounded
the day before, and was then lymg in the perioque. After attending
to his wound they remained here a while, and were overtaken by their
two men, accompanied by Dickson and Hancock, who wished to go
with them as far as the Mandans. The whole party being now happUy
re-united, they all embarked together.

On the 14th, they approached the grand vUlage of the Mmnetarees,
where the natives collected to view them aa they passed. They fired a
blunderbuss several times by way of salute, and soon afterward landed
near the village of the Mahahas, or Shoe Indians, and were received
by a crowd of people who came to welcome their return.

"In the evening we were applied to by one of our men, Colter, who
was desirous of joining the two trappers who had accompanied us, and
who now proposed an expedition up the river, in which they were to
find traps, and give him a share of the profits. The offer was a very
advantageous one, and as he had always performed his duty, and his

proceeded very

e junction of the '
the point where j
rhe canoes were !
iny of the articles '
found their camp }
le of mosquitoes; '
J, nor hunt in the
of escape except ,
s wind blew, the j
, and particularly |
Clarke therefore |
lOte on a pole at
Missouri. !

)r, with Shannon, j
I been stolen from '
T had left Captain
s five miles, when
er party five miles
ans, and returned
pursued a north-
ed the river, they
the occasion,
larke had stopped
; 11th. The party
[)f the skin canoes
le they stopped to
is'8 boats heave in
g the boats reach
lad been wounded
After attending
overtaken by their
v'ho wished to go
being now happily

f the Minnetarees,
sed. They fired a

afterward landed
md were received
im.

r men. Colter, who
companied us, and
hich they were to
e offer was a very

his duty, and his

RETURN TO CIVILIZATION.

193

services niiglit be dispensed with, we agreed that he might go, provided
none of the rest would ask, or expect a similar indulgetice. To this they
cheerfully answered that they wished Colter every success, and would
not apply for liberty to separate before wo reached St. Louis. We
thereibrc supplied him, as did his comrades also, with powder and lead,
and a variety of articles which might be useful to him, and he loft us
tlic next day. The example of this man shows how easily men may be
weaned from the habits of a civilized life to the ruder but scarcely
less fascinating manners of the woods."

On the 16th the principal chiefs of the Minetarees cam** down to bid
them farewell, as none of them could be prevailed on to go with tho
party. This induced Chaboneau, the interpreter, with his wife and
child, to leave, as he could be no longer useful, and having no acquahit-
ancc in the United States nor means of making a livelihood there, he
preferred remaining among the Indians. This man had been very serv-
iceable to the expedition, and his wife particularly useful among the
Shoshonees. She had borne with admirable patience the fatigue of the
long journey, encumbered with an infant who was yet only nineteen
months old. They therefore paid him his wages and dropped down to
the village of the chief Bigwhite, who was to accompany them with his
wife and son. All the chiefs accompanied them on.shore, to take leave
of him. They found him surrounded by his friends, who sat in a circle
smoking, while the Avomen were crying. He immediately sent his wife
and son, with their baggage, on board, then, after distributing among
his friends some powder and ball, and smoking with the white men,
went with them to the river side. The whole village crowded about
them, and many of the people wept aloud at the departure of their
chief.

On the 3d of September they were delighted by hearing the first
news from their country, from a trader who had lately passed through
St. Louis, and with whom they encamped for the night. Near the Little
Sioux River, on the 6th, they met a trading boat of St. Louis, with
several men on their way to trade with the Yanktons at the river
Jacques. They obtained of them a gallon of whiskey, and gave each
of the party a dram, which was the first spirituous liquor any of them
had tasted since the 4th of July, 1805. On the 17th they passed tho
island of the Little Osage village. Thirty miles below they met a Cap-
tain M'Clellan, lately of the United States Army, with whom they en-
camped. He informed them that the general opinion in the United
States was that they were lost ; the last accounts which had been heard
from them being from the Mandan Aallages.

At length, as the hunters were not very successful, their stock of
provisions became very low, though it was partially supplied by an
abundance of papaws ; several of the party were also attacked with a
soreness of the eyes, which was extremely painful, particularly when ex-
posed to the light. Three of the men were so much affected by it as to

''%.

194

TRAVELS OF LEWIS AND CLARKE.

be unable to row ; they therefore turned two of the boats adnft on the
19th, and distributed the men among the other canoes
^'Lnrcla.j, September 20th. Near the mouth oi he Gasconado,
where we arrived at noon, we met five Frenchmen on the.r way to the
Sreat Osage village. As we moved along rapidly we saw on the banks
Bome cows feeding, and the whole party almost myoluntan ly ra.sed a
hout of joy at seehig this Image of civilization and .h,mestic hto. Soon
IfterW reached the little French village of La Charette, winch we
Ited with a discharge of four guns and three '--^y cheers^ Ih^^^^
were all c mally surprised and pleased at our arrival, ft r they had long
Tin e abandoiil all hope of ever seeing us return. Next morning we
Zceedecl, and as several settlements had been made during our ab-
sen et" were refreshed with the sight of men and catt e ^ong he
bank At length, after coming forty-eight miles, we sa uted, with heart-
feirsatisfoctionfthe village of St. Charles, and on landing were trc-a ed
wltirtSgreat^st hospitality and kindness by all the mhabitants of the

^^'^"V«.«c7ay, 23d. Descended to the Mississippi, and round to St.
Louis wher/ve arrived at twelve o'clock, and hanng fired a salute,
went on shore and received the heartiest and most hospitable welcome
from the whole village."

joats adrift on the

jf the Gasoonadp,
1 their way to the
! saw on tlie banks
ohintarily raised a
)mcstic lit'o. Soon
harettc, wiiich we
irty cheers. Thoy
for they had long
Next morning wc
do during our ab-
d cattle along the
saluted, with heart-
ding were treated
inhabitants of the

and round to St.
•ing fired a salute,
hospitable welcome

€

tJ/'ii'iuf

ntJ^

;J)^'

MAP

or
RAVELS

Iff
LB JXAST

Jtiirhhanln Kcnid:

Pjtltl'Xira*

BURCKIIARDT'S TRAVELS

IN SYRIA, AFRICA, AND ARABIA

TRAVELS IN SYRIA.

Joim Lewis BpRCKnxRDT, tho most promment amonj* oriental
travelers, tho discoverer of tlio city of Petra, and the first Christian trav-
eler who visited Mecca and Medina, was a Swiss, descended from an
eminent family of Basle. He was bom at Lausanne, on the Lake of
Geneva, in the year 1784. He was the eighth child of John Rodolph
Burckhardt, a gentleman of wealth and intelligence, whose prospects in
life were early blighted by his adherence to the Austrian faction, during
the troubles in Switzerland, consequent upon tho French Revolution.
He was at one time tried for his life, and was obliged to fly from Basle
in order to save his family from total ruin. The future traveler natu-
rally grew up with a detestation of the French rule, and it was his boy-
ish desire to serve in the armies of some nation at war with France. It
was his fortune, however, to be destined for a far more useful and heroic
career.

Burokhardt's studies were, from various causes, conducted in tho
manner best calculated to create and nourish restless and adventurous
habits. Having received the first rudiments of his education in his
father's house, he was removed to a school at Neufohatel, where he re-
mained two years. At the age of sixteen he was entered as a student
at the university of Leipzig ; from whence, after four years' residence,
he proceeded to Gottingen, where he continued another year. He then
returned to his parents. The natural firmness and consistency of his
character, of which his countenance was strikingly expressive, still taught
him to keep alive his hatred to the French ; but no continental nation
had preserved itself wholly free from the influence of this people ; and
therefore, rejecting an offer which was made him by one of the petty
courts of Germany, desirous of numbering him among its diplomatic
body, he turned his thoughts toward England, his fether having formerly
served m a Swiss corps, in English pay. Accordingly, having provided

QIK ■ I

198

LIFK AND TRAVELS OF BUUCKUARDT.

himself with h'ttcrs of introduction to soviTal ' persons of distinction,
uinon^ wliii-li was ono from Professor Hlumonbauh to Sir Joseph ISunks,
Loset out for London, where he arrived in tlie montii of July, 1800.

This step was the pivot upon which the whole circle of his short life
was destined to tuni. Ilis introduction to Sir Joseph Banks, who had
lonjj hccn anactivomemberof the African Association, almost necessarily-
brought him into contact with several other individuals connected with
that celebrated society ; an<l conversations with these persons, whoso
cnthnsiasm was unbounded, naturally begot in Burckhardt a corrcsiwnd-
ing warmth, and transformed him, from a Quixotic crusader against the
French, into an ardent, ambitious traveler.

Upon Burckliardt's desire to travel for the African Association being
oomnmnicated to Sir Joseph Banks and Dr. Hamilton, then acting sec-
retary to that body, strong representations of the dangers to bo en-
countered in the execution of the plan were made to the youthful aspi-
rant ; " but," says ono of his biographers, " such representations, which
are a delusive kind of pcace-oft'ering placed for form's sake on the altar
of conscience, are seldom sincerely designed to effect their apparent pur-
pose ; and the actors in the farce, for the most part, experience extreme
chagrin should they find their eloquence ^ rove Buccedsful."

His offer, which was laid before the association at the general meet-
ing of May, 1808, was willingly accepted ; and he immediately com-
menced all those preparations which were necessary to the proper
accomplishment of his undertaking. He employed himself diligently in
the study of the Arabic language both in London and Cambridge, as
Avell as in acquiring a knowledge of several branches of science, such as
chemistry, astronomy, mineralogy, medicine, and surgery : he likewise
allowed liis beard to grow, assumed the oriental dress, " and in the in-
tervals of his studies exercised himself by long journeys on foot, bare-
headed, in the heat of the sun, sleeping upon the ground, and living upon
vegetables and water."

On the 25th of January, 1809, he received bis instructions, by which
ho was directed to proceed in the first instance to Syria, where, it waa
supposed, he might complete his knowledge of the Arabic, and acquire
oriental habits and manners at a distance from the scene of his researches,
and where he was not Ukcly to meet with any individuals who might
afterward recognize him at an inconvenient moment. After spending
two years in Syria, he was instructed to proceed to Cairo, to accompany
the Arab caravan to Mourzuk, in Fezzan, by the same route traversed
by the unfortunate Homemann, and to make that place the point of his
departure for the interior of Africa.

Burckhardt sailed from Cowes on the 2d of March, ''M09, in a merchant-
ship, proceeded to the Mediterranean, and arrived at Malta in the middle
of April. During his stay at this place he completed his equipment in
the oriental manner and assumed the character of an Indian Moham-
medan merchant, bearing dispatches from the East India Company to

«1_

.RDT.

ins of distinction,
Sir JuHC'ph Itanlu,

of July, 1800.

lu of \m short lift*
li BankH, who )ia<i

nlmoat necessarily
als connected with
DHo persons, whost)
lardt a eorrcspond-
'usader against the

n Association being
tlicn actuig sec-
dangerH to bo cn-
thc youthful aspi-
)re3entations, which
s sake on the altar
their apparent pur-
experience extreme
^sful."

t the general meet-
e immediately com-
jary to the proper
himself diligently in
and Cambridge, as
s of science, such as
lurgery : he likewise
ess, " and in the in-
imeys on foot, bare-
)und, and living upon

istructions, by which
Syria, where, it was
Arabic, and acquire
sene of his researches,
iividuals who might
jnt. After spending
I Cairo, to accompany
ame route traversed
place the point of his

1, ''(i09, inaraerchant-
,t Malta in the middle
ed his equipment in
if an Indian Moham-
it India Company to

VOYAQK TO SYIUA.

190

Mr. Barker, liritish co.. ,iil, and the Company'^ agent at Aleppo. Mean-
while lui carefully avoided all intercourse with such i)L'i-80im from Uar-
bary as happened to be in the island ; and when ho met parties of them
in the street, as ho often did, the salaam aleikoom (peace be with you !)
given and returned, was all that passed between them. There was at
this time a Swiss regiment in the English service at Malta, to many of
the (ifHi'ors of which Burckhardt was personally known. To be recog-
nized by these gentlemen would at once have proved fatal to his assumed
character ; ho therefore appeared in public cautiously, and but seldom ;
but had at length the satisfaction of finding that his disguise was so com-
plete as to enable him to pass unknown and imnoticed.

lie entered into arrangements with a Greek respecting his passage
from Malta to Cyprus ; but on the very morning of his expected depart-
ure he received information that the owner of the ship had directed the
captain to proceed to Tripoli. His baggage was in consequence trans-
ferred to another ship, said to bo bound to the same island ; " but the
very moment I was embarking," says Burckhardt, " tho new captain told
mo that he was not quite stiro whether ho should touch at Cyprus, his
ship being properly bound for Acre. I had now tho option to wait at
Malta, j)erhaps another month or two, for an opportunity for Cyprus or
the coast of Syria, or to run tho chance of disembarking at a place where
there was no person whatever to Avhom I could apply for advice or pro-
tection. Luckily an Arab of Acre, then at Malta, happened to bo known
to Mr. Barker, jr. ; in half an hour's time a letter from a merchant at
Acre, with another in case of need for tho pasha, were procured, and I
embarked and sailed tho same morning in the hope of finding, when ar-
rived at Acre, a passage for Tripoli (Syria), or for Latakia. However,
we were no sooner out of sight of tho island than it was made known to
me that the real destination of the ship was tho coast of Caramania, that
the captain had orders to touch first at the port of Satalia, then at that
of Tarsus ; and that if grain could not be purchased at an advantageous
price at either of these places, in that case only ho was to proceed to
Acre. My remonstrances with the captain would have been Vain ; noth-
ing was left to mo but to cultivate his good graces and those of my
fellow-travelers, as the progress of my journey must depend greatly
upon their good offices. The passengers consisted, to my astonishment,
of a rich Ti'ipoline merchant, who o\vned part of the ship, two other
Tripolines, and two negro slaves. I introduced myself among them as
an Indian Mohammedan merchant, who had been from early years in
England, and was now on his way home ; and I had the good fortune to
make my story credible enough to the passengers, as well as to the ship's
company. During the course of our voyage numerous questions were
put to me relative to India, its inhabitants and its language, which I
answered as well as I could. Whenever I was asked for a specimen of
the Hindoo language, I answered in the worst dialect of the Swiss Ger-
man, almost unintelligible even to a German, and which, in its guttural

200

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF BURCKHARDT.

Bounds, may fairly rival tlic harshest utterance of Arabic. Every even-
ing we assembled u[x>n deck to enjoy the cooling sea-breeze and o smoke
our pipes. While one of the sailors was amusing his compai-ions with
story-telling, I was called upon to relate to my companions the wonders
of the furthest cast — of the Great Mogul and the riches of his court —
of the Avidows in Hindostan burning themselves — of the Chinese, their
wall, and great porcelain tower," etc.

They sailed along the southern coast of Candia, saw Rhodes at a great
distance, and arrived in a few c;iys at Satalia, in Caramania. Here the
plague, it was found, was raging in the town ; but this circumstance did
not prevent the Tripoline merchant from landing and disposing of his
merchandise, nor the captain from receiving him again on board. Wlien
their business with this town was completed, they again set sail, and af-
ter coasting for three days along the shore of Caramania, arrived in the
roads of Mersin, from whence Burckhardt and several of his companions
proceeded by land on an excursion to Tarsus. Finding here a ship bound
for the coast of Syria, the traveler left the Maltese vessel in order to pro-
ceed by this new conveyance : " In taking leave of the Tripoline," says
he, " I took off my sash, a sort of red cambric shawl, of Glasgow manu-
facture, which he had always much admired, thinking it to be Indian
stuff, and presented it to liim as a keepsake or reward for his good serv-
ices. He immediately unloosened hia turban, and twisted the shawl in
its stead around his head : making me many professions of friendship,
and assuring me of his hospitality, if e\ er the chance of mercantile pur-
suits should again engage me to visit the Mediterranean, and perhaps
Tripoli, in Barbary."

Burckhardt reached the coast of Syria at that point where the Aasi,
the ancient Orontes, falls into the sea ; and immediately prepared to de-
part for Aleppo with a caravan. Having been intrusted with several
chests for the British consul at Aleppo, his baggage appeared considera-
ble, and ho was consequently sent for by the aga, who expected a hand-
some present for permitting it to pass. When questioned by this officer
respecting the contents of the chests, he replied that he was entirely ig-
norant of the matter, but suspected that among other things there was a
sort of Frank drink, called beer^ with various kinds of eatables. The aga
now sent an officer to examine them. A bottle of beer having been bro-
ken in loading, " the man tasted it by putting his finger into the liquor,
and found it abominably bitter ; such was his report to the aga. As a
sample of the eatables, he produced a potato which he had taken out of
one of the barrels, and that noble root excited general laugliter in the
room. * It is well worth while,' they said, ' to send such stuff to such a
distance.' The aga tasted of the raw potato, and spitting it out again,
swore at the Frank's stomach which could bear such food." The mean
opinion to which these specimens gave rise, inclined tlie aga to be con-
tent with the trifling sum of ten piasters, which he probably thought
more than the value of a whole ship's cargo of potatoes and beer.

iARDT.

rabic. Every even-
jreeze and o smoke
lia compai-ions with
tnnions tlie wonders
ches of liis court —
' the Chinese, their

w Rhodes at a great
raniania. Here the
his circumstance did
and disposing of his
in on board. Wlien
[igain set sail, and af-
nania, arrived in the
•al of his companions
ng here a ship bound
essel in order to pro-
the Tripoline," says
1, of Glasgow manu-
iking it to be Indian
rd for his good serv-
twisted the shawl in
"essions of friendship,
:e of mercantile pur-
rranean, and perhaps

point where the Aasi,
ately prepared to de-
itrusted with several
e appeared considera-
ivho expected a hand-
stioned by this officer
at he was entirely ig-
icr things there was a
of eatables. The aga
jeer having been bro-
inger into the liquor,
ort to the aga. As a
1 he had taken out of
neral laughter in the
I such stuff to such a
spitting it out again,
ch food." Tlie mean
ed the aga to be con-
he probably thought
itoea and beer.

RESIDENCE AT ALEPPO.

201

Upon the arrival of the caravan at Antioch, Burckhardt, desirous of
studying the manners of all ranks of men, took up his quarters in the khan
of the muleteers, where, from a suspicion that he was a Frank in dis-
guise, he was subjected to numerous indignities. The aga's dragoman,
some wretched Frenchman, or Piedmontese, being sent by his master to
discover the truth, and failing to effect his purpose by any other means,
determined, as a last resource, on pulling him by the beard, and at the
same time asked him familiarly why he had suffered such a thing to grow ?
To this Burckhardt replied by striking him on the face, which turned
the laugh against the poor dragoman, and was an argument so peculiarly
Mohammcdam, that it seems to have convinced the bystanders of the
truth of his assertions.

After a delay of four days he continued his journey with the cara-
van, with the motley members of which he was compelled to maintain
an unceasing struggle in defense of his assumed character ; a circum-
stance which proves one of two things, either that the Sonnees of the
west have by intercourse with Europeans been rendered more acute
in discovering impostors, than the Sheeahs of Afghanistan and northern
Persia, or that Burckhardt was hitherto somewhat unskillful in his movcr
ments. On his arrival at Aleppo, he determined, in pursuance of th^
ad/ice of Mr. Barker, to put off his Mohammedan disguise, though ho
still retained the Turkish dress ; and with the aid of an able master,
recommenced the study of the Arabic, both literal and vulgar. He
was attacked, however, shortly after his arrival, by a strong inflam-
matory fever, which lasted a fortnight ; it was occasioned, as he con-
jectured, by the want of sleep, of which blessing he had been deprived
by the prodigious colonies of fleas which had established themselves in
his garments during his stay at the khan of Antioch. When this sea-
soning was over, his health appeared to be improved, and he found the
climate finer, and more salubrious than he had expected.

During his stay in this city, which was a very protracted one, Burck-
hardt labored assiduously in fitting himself for the honorable perform-
ance of the task he had undertaken. His Arabic studies were uninter-
rupted. Besides seizing eagerly on every opportunity of improving
himself by conversation with the natives, he labored at an attempt to
transform " Robinson Crusoe" into an Arabian tale. He moreover suc-
ceeded in making the acquaintance of several shekhs, and other literary
men, who hontred him occasionally with a visit ; a favor, he says, which
he owed prmcipally to Mr. Wilkins's " Arabic and Persian Dictionary."
The ordinary lexicons of the country being very defective, the learned
Turks were often obliged to have recourse to Wilkins, whose learning
and exactness sometimes compelled them to exclaim, " How wonder-
ful that a Frank should know more of our language than our first
ulemr«3 !"

In the month of July, 1810, Burckhardt departed from Aleppo under
the protection of an Arab shekh, of the Aneyzeh tribe, who undertook

-^.■y.».^..tor ■ ->-':„...1 ■ -,l ■"'•• II II fc ■'

202

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF BURCKnARDT.

to escort ^lira to Palmyra, and thence through the Ilauran to Damascus.
On the way they were attacked, Avhile the shekh was absent at a water-
ing-place, by hostile Arabs, by whom our traveler was robbed of his
watch and compass ; after Avhich ho pushed on into the desert to rejoin
the chief. Contrary to the well-known faith of the Arabs, this man
transferred to another the protection of his guest, thereby exposing him
to be robbed a second time, at Palmyra, where the bandit in authority,
finding that ho had no money, contented himsdf with seizing upon his
saddle. Returning from these ruins, he found at Ycbrud a letter from
the shekh, forbidding him to proceed toward the Hauran, because, as
the writer asserted, the invasion of the Wahabccs had rendered that
portion of the country unsafe, even to himself and his Arabs. In con-
sequence of this fraudulent conduct of the shekh, for the excuse was a
fiction, he found himself necessitated to take the road to Damascus;
disappointed in part, but upon the whole well satisfied with having bo-
held those magnificent ruins in the desert which have charmed so many
strangers, and Avith having at the same time enjoyed so many occasions
of observing the Bedouins under their own tents, where he was every-
where received with hospitality and kindness.

After proceeding southward to the territory of the Druses, and
Mount Ilermon, he returned to Damascus; whence, after a short stay,
he made an excursion into the Hauran, the patrimony of Abraham,
which four years before had been in part visited by Dr. Seetzcn, pre-
vious to his tour round the Dead Sea. " During a fatiguing journey
of twenty-six days," says Burckhardt, " I explored this country as far
as five days' journey to the south and south-east of Damascus ; I went
over the whole of the Jebel Hauran, or mountain of the Druses, who
have in these parts a settlement of about twenty villages ; I passed
Bozra, a place mentioned in the books of Moses, and not to be con-
founded with Boostra ; I then entered the desert to the south-east of it,
and returned afterward to Damascus through the rocky district on the
foot of the Jebel Hauran, caUed El Leja. At every step I found ves-
tiges of ancient cities; saw the remams of many temples, public edifices,
and Greek churches; met at Shohbe with a well-preserved amphi-
theatre, at other places with numbers of still standing columns, and
had opportunities of copying many Greek inscriptions, which may serve
to throw some light upon the history of this almost forgotten corner.
The inscriptions are, for the greater part, of the lower empire, but some
of the most elegant ruins have their inscriptions dated from the reigns
of Trajan, and M. Aurelius. The Hauran, with its adjacent districts, ia
the spring and summer rendezvous of most of the Arab tribes, who in-
habit in Avinter-time the great Syrian desert, called by them El Ham-
mad. They approach the cultivated lands in search of grass, water,
and corn, of which last they buy up in the Hauran their yeariy pro-
vision."

Having to a certain extent satisfied his curiosity respectmg this ob-

RDT.

iran to Damascus,
absent at a water-
as robbed of his
le desert to rejoin
Arabs, this man
eby exposing liim
indit in authority,
h seizing upon his
brud a letter from
auran, because, as
ad rendered that
Arabs. In con-
tho excuse was a

)ad to Damascus;

id with having be-
charmed so many

so many occasions

lere he was every-

the Druses, and
, after a short stay,
nony of Abraham,
y Dr. Seetzen, pre-

fatiguing journey
this country as far
Damascus; I went
of the Druses, who

villages; I passed
,nd not to bo con-
bhe south-east of it,
)cky district on the
y step I found ves-
>les, public edifices,
l-preserved amphi-
iding columns, and
s, which may serve
it forgotten comer,
r empire, but some
ted from the reigns
idjacent districts, is
Lrab tribes, who in-
bythem El Ham-
!h of grass, water,
a their yearly pro-
respecting this ob-

EXCURSION INTO THE SYRIAN DESERT.

203

scure region, he returned by way of Horns and Ilamah toward Aleppo,
where ho arrived on the New-year's day of 1811. He now meditated
an excursion into the desert toward the Euphrates, but was for some
time prevented from putting his design in execution by the troubled
state of the country, two powerful Arab tribes, the one inimical, the
other friendly to tho Aleppines, having been for many months at war
with each other. Burckhardt at length succeeded, however, in placing
himself under the protection of the Shekh of Sukhne, and set out to-
wai 1 the desert ; but his own account of this journey was lost, and all
thai can now be knov/n of it is to be gathered from a letter from Mr.
Barker, the former celebrated British consul at Aleppo. " One hundred
and twenty, or one hundred and fifty miles below the ruins of Membi-
geh, in the Zor," says this gentleman, " there is a tract on tho banks of
the Euphrates possessed by a tribe of very savage Arabs. Not far from
them is the village of Sukhne, at the distance of five days from Aleppo,
and of twelve hours from Palmyra, in the road which Zenobia in her
flight took to gain the Euphrates. The people of Sukhne are sedentary
Arabs, of a breed half Fellah and half Bedouin. They bring to Aleppo
alkali and ostrich feathers. It was upon one of these visits of the Shekh
of Sukhne to Aleppo, that Burckhardt, after some negotiation, resolved
to accept the protection of the shekh, who undertook, upon their arrival
at his village, to place him under tho protection of s. Bedouin of suffi-
cient influence to procure him a safe passage through the tribes of the
country which he wished to explore. Burckhardt had reason to be
satisfied both with the Shekh of Sukhne, and with the Arab whom he
procured as an escort, except that, in the end, the protection of the lat-
ler proved insufficient. The consequence was that poor Burckhardt was
stripped to the skin, and he returned to Sukhne, his body blistered with
the rays ot the sun, and without having accomplished any of the objects
of his journey. It was in this excursion to the desert that Burck-
hardt had so hard u struggle with an Arab lady, who took a fancy to
the only garment which the delicacy or compassion of the men had
left him."

After his return from this unfortunate journey, Burckhardt was de-
layed for a considerable time at Aleppo by incessant rains ; but at length,
on the 14th of February, he bade this city a final adieu, and hastened
once more to Damascus. He was desii'ous, before quitting Syria, of
performing another journey in the Hauran. This he completed, and
having transmitted to England an account of his discoveries in this ex-
traordinary region, he departed on the I8tli of June for the Dead Sea.
Having reached Nazareth, " I met here," says he, " a couple of petty
merchants from Szalt, a castle in the mountains of Balka, which I had
not been able to see during my late tour, and which lies on the road I
had pointed out to myself for passing into the Egyptian deserts. I
joined their caravan ; after eight hours' march, we descended into the
valley of the Jordan, called El Ghor, near Bysan ; crossed the river, and

204

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP BURCKHARDT.

continued along its verdant banks for about ten hours, until we reached
the river Zerka, near the place where it empties itself into the Jordan.
Turning then to our left, we ascended the eastern chain, formerly part of
the district of Balka, and arrived at iSzalt, two long days' journey from
Nazareth. The inhabitants of Szalt s^'e entirely independent of the
Turkish government ; they cultivate the ground for a considerable dis-
tance round their habitations, and part of them live the whole year in
tents, to watch their harvests and to pasture their cattle. Matty ruined
places and mountains in the district of Balka preserve the names of the
Old Testament, and elucidate the topography of the province that fell
to the share of the tribes of Gad and Reuben. Szalt is at present the
only inhabited place in the Balka, but numerous Arab tribes pasture
there their camels and sheep. I visited from thence the ruins of Am&n,
or Pliiladelphia, five hours and <^ half distant from Szalt. They are sit-
uated in a valley on both sides oi a rivulet, which empties itself into
the Zerka. A large amphitheater is the most remarkable of these ruins,
which are much decayed, and in every respect inferior to those of Jerash.
At four or five hours south-east of Amin are the ruins of Om Erresas
and El Kotif, which I could not see, but which, according to report, are
more considerable than those of Philadelphia. The want of communi-
cation between Szalt and the southern countries delayed my departure
for upward of a week. I found at last a guide, and we reached Kerek
in two days and a halfj after having passed the deep beds of the torrents
El Wale and El Mojeb, which I suppose to be the Nahaliel and Amon.
The Mojeb divides the district of Balka from that of Kerek, as it for-
merly divided the Moabites from the Amorites. To the south of the
wild torrent Mojeb I found the considerable ruins of Rabbah Moab ;
and, three hours' distance from them, the town of Kerek, situated at
about twelve hours' distance to the east of the southern extremity of
the Dead Sea. * * *

" The treachery of the Shekh of Kerek, to whom I had been par-
ticularly recommended by a grandee of Damascus, obliged me to stay
at Kerek above twenty days. After having annoyed me in different
ways, he permitted me to accompany him southward, or, he had himself
business in the mountains of Djebal, a district which is divided from that
of Kerek by the deep bed of the torrent El Ahhsa, or El Kahary, eight
hours' distance from Kerek. We remained for ten days in the villages
to the north and south of El Ansa, which are inhabited by Arabs, who
have become cultivators, and who sell the produce of their fields to the
Bedouins. The shekh, having finished his business, left me at Beszeyra,
a village about sixteen hours' south of Kerek, to shift for myself, after
having maliciously recommended me to the care of a Bedouin, with
whose character he must have been acquainted, and who nearly stripped
me of the remainder of my money. I encountered here many difficul-
ties, was obliged to walk from one encampment to another, until I found
at last a Bedouin who engaged to carry me to Egypt. In his company

IRDT.

until we reached

into the Jordan.

, formerly part of

lys' journey from

ependcnt of the

considerable dis-

e whole year in

lie. Maity ruined

the names of the

Tovince that fell

is at present the

,b tribes pasture

e ruins of Am&n,

It. They are sit-

impties itself into

kblc of these ruins,

tothoseof Jerash.

IS of Om Erresas

ling to report, are

^ant of communi-

jred my departure

re reached Kerck

edsof the torrents

^aliel and Amon.

' Kerek, as it for-

the south of the

}f Rabbah Moab ;

E^erek, situated at

liem extremity of

I I had been par-
)liged me to stay
id :Tie in different
ar, he had himself
divided from that
• El Kahary, eight
ays in the villages
ed by Arabs, who
their fields to the
ft me at Beszeyra,
t for myself, after
' a Bedouin, with
bo nearly stripped
ere many diffioul-
ther, until I found
lu his company

APPROACH TO PETRA.

205

I continued southward, in the mountains of Shera, which are divided
to the north from Djebal l;y the broad valley called Ghoseyr, at about
five hours' distance from Beszeyra. The chief place in Djebal is Tafyle,
and in Shera the castle of iShobak."

DISCOVERT OF PBTRA.

•' The valley of Ghor is continued to the south of the Dead Sea ; nt
about sixteen hours' distance from the extremity of the Dead Sea its
name is changed into that of Araba, and it runs in almost a straight line,
declining somewhat to the west, as far as Akaba, at the extremity of the
eastern branch of the Red Sea. The existence of this valley appears to
have been unknown to ancient as well as modem geographers, although
it is a very remarkable feature in the geography of Syria and Arabia
Petrsea, and is still more interestmg for its productions. In this valley
the manna is still found ; it drops from the sprigs of several trees, but
principally from the Gharrab. It is collected by the Arabs, who make
cakes of it, and who eat it with butter ; they call it Assal Beyrook, or
the honey of Beyrook. Indigo, gum-arabic, and the silk-trce, called
Asheyr, whose fruit incloses a white silky substance, of which the Arabs
twist their matches, grow in this valley."

In this valley, about two long days' journey north-east of Akaba, is
a small rivulet, near the banks of which Burckhardt discovered the ruins
of a city, which he rightly conjectured to be those of Petra, the capital
of Arabia Petraea. No other European traveler had ever visited the
spot, though few places in Western Asia are more curious or deserving
of examination. The difficulties and dangers of reaching Petra, a city
which had been lost to the world fi)r fifteen hundred years, are thus
described by the traveler : " I was particularly desirous of visiting Wady
Moussa, of the antiquities of which I had heard the country people
speak in terms of great admiration, and from thence I had hoped to
cross the desert in a straight line to Cairo ; but my guide was aftaid of
the hazards of a journey through the desert, and insisted upon my tak-
ing the road to Akaba, the ancient Ezion-geber, at the extremity of the
eastern branch of the Red Sea, where, he said, we might join some
caravans, and continue our route toward Egypt. I wished, on the con-
trary, to avoid Akaba, as I knew that the Pasha of Egypt kept there
a numerous garrison to watch the movements of the Wahabees and of
his rival the Pasha of Damascus. A person, therefore, like myself, com-
ing from the latter place, without any papers to show who I was, or why
I had taken that circuitous route, would certainly have roused the sus-
picions of the officer commanding at Akaba, and the consequences might
have been dangerous to me among the savage soldiery of that garrison.
The road from Shobak to Akaba lies to the east of Wady Moussa, and
to have quitted it out of mere curiosity to see the Wady would have

<e>

206

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP BURCKIIARDT.

looked suspicious in the eyes of the Arabs : I therefore pretended to have
made a vow to slaughter a goat in honor of Haroun (Aaron), whose tomb
I knew was situated at the extremity of the valley, and by this strata-
gem I thought that I shoidd have the means of seeing the valley on my
way to the tomb. To this my guide had nothing to oppose ; the dread
of drawing down upon himself, by resistance, the wrath of Haroun,
completely silenced him.

" I hired a guide at Eldjy, to conduct me to Haroun's tomb, and paid
him with a pair of old horse-shoes. He carried the goat, and gave mo
a skin of water to carry, as he knew there was no water in the Avady
below. In following the rivulet of Eldjy westward, the valley soon nar-
rows again, and it is here that the antiquities of Wady Moussa (Petra)
begin. Of these I regret that I am not able to give a very complete
account ; but I knew well the character of the people around me. I
was Avithout protection in the midst of a desert, where no traveler had
ever before been seen, and a close examination of these Avorks of the
infidels, as they are called, would have excited suspicions that I was a
magician in search of treasures. I should at least have been detained
and prevented from prosecuting my journey to Egypt, and in all proba-
bility should have been stripped of the little money which I possessed,
and, what was infinitely moro valuable to me, of my journal. Future
travelers may visit the spot under the protection of an armed force ; the
inhabitants will become more accustomed to the researches of strangers,
and the aTitiquities of Wady Moussa will then be found to rank among
the most curious remain? of ancient art."

Burckhardt gives as careful a description as his memory afforded
of the 'venders of the valley — the hundreds of sepulchral chambers,
adorned with Grecian sculpture, excavated in the red sand-stone rocks
Hanking the valley — of the mausolea, some in the Egyptian style,
with obelisks, some in the ihasto architecture of the Greeks — and
especially of the Khasneh, or "Treasury of Pharaoh," an excavated
edifice of wonderful beauty ; but his account has been superseded by
the more complete and elaborate descriptions of Laborde and other late
travelers, and need not be quoted entire. " Near the west end of Wady
Moussa," he continues, " are the remains of a stately edifice, of which
pait of the wall is still standing; the inhabitants call it Kasr Bint
Faraoun^ or the palace of Pharaoh's daughter. In my way I had en-
tered several sepulchres, to the surprise of my guide, but when he saw
me turn out of the foot-path toward the Easr, he exclaimed: 'I see now
clearly that you are an infidel, who have some particular business among
the ruins of the city of your fore&thers ; but depend upon it that we
shall not suffer you to take out a single para of all the treasures hidden
therein, for they are in our territory, and belong to us.' I replied that
it was mere curiosity which prompted me to look at 1'"^ aucient works,
and that I had no other view in coming there than to sacrifice to
Haroun ; but he was not easily persuaded, and I did not think it prudent

ARDT.

pretended to have
aron), whose tomb
and by this Btrata-
g the valley on my
oppose ; the dread
wrath of Haroun,

un's tomb, and paid

goat, and gave me

water in the wady

Iho valley soon nar-

idy Moussa (Petra)

vc a very complete

tple around me. I

!re no traveler had

these works of the

ciona that I was a

lave been detained

pt, and in all proba-

r which I possessed,

ly journal. Future

m armed force ; the

iarches of strangers,

und to rank among

lis memory afforded
jpulchral chambers,
red sand-stone rocks
ihe Egyptian style,
>f the Greeks — and
•aoh," an excavated
been superseded by
borde and other late
B west end of Wady
Ely edifice, of which

call it ITasr Bint
1 my way I had en-
!e, but when he saw
claimed : ' I see now
alar business among
nd upon it that we
he treasures hidden
us.' I replied that

ibf' aucient works,
ban to sacrifice to
tot think it prudent

THE SACRIFICE TO AARON.

207

to irritate him by too close an inspection of the palace, as it might have
led him to declare, on our return, his belief that I had found treasures,
which might have led to a search of my person, and to the detection of
my journal, which would most certainly have been taken from mc, as a
book of magic. It was of no avail to tell them to follow me, and see
whether I searched for money. Their reply was, * Of course you will not
dare to take it out before us, but we know that if you are a skillful magi-
cian you will order it to follow you through the air to whatever place
you please.'

*' The sun had already set when wo arrived on the plain. It was too
late to reach the tomb, and I was excessively fatigued ; I therefore hast-
ened to kill the goat in sight of the tomb, at a spot where I found a
number of heaps of stones, placed there in token of as many sacriticcs in
honor of that saint. While I was in the act of slaying the animal, ray
guide exclaimed aloud: ' O Haroun, look upon us ! it is for you we slaugh-
ter this victim. O Haroim, be content with our good intentions, for it
is but a lean goat. O Haroun, smooth our paths ; and praise bo to the
Lord of all creatures 1' This he repeated several times, after which he
covered the blood that had fallen to the ground with a heap of stones ;
we then dressed the best part of the flesh for our supper, as expeditiously
as possible, for the guide was afraid of the fire being seen, and of its
attractuig thither some robbers."

In proceeding further toward Akaba, Burckhardt encountered a small
party of Arabs who were conducting a few camels for sale to Cairo, and
uniting himself to this little caravan, performed the remainder of the
journey in their company. "We crossed the valley of Araba," says he,
" ascended on the other side of it the barren mountains of Beyane, and
entered the desert called El Tih, which is the most barren and horrid
tract of country I have ever seen ; black flints cover the chalky or sandy
ground, which in most places is without any vegetation. The tree
which produces the gmn-arabic grows in some spots ; and the tamarisk
is met with here and there ; but the scarcity of water forbids much
extent of vegetation, and the hungry camels are obliged to go in the
evening for whole hours out of the road in order to find some Avithered
shrubs upon which to feed. During ten days' forced marches we
passed only four springs or wells, of which one only, at about eight hours
east of Suez, was of sweet water. The others were brackish and sid-
phureous. We passed at a short distance to the north of Suez, and
arrived at Cairo by the pilgrim road."

TRAVELS IN NUBIA AND ETHIOPIA.

On his arrival at Cairo, Burckhardt's first employment was to draw
up a detailed account of his journey through Arabia Petrroa : he then
turned his attention to the means of fulfilling the great design of his mis-

208

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF DUKOKHARDT.

Bion ; but no opportunity of penetrating into the interior of Africa occur-
ring, he undertook, in order to fill up tlie interval thus created, a journey
into Nubia. During his residence at Cairo, and on his jouniey up the
Nile to Assouan, he beheld the principal ruins of Egypt. Uis prepara-
tions for the Nubian excursion were soon made. He purchased two
dromedaries, one for himself and the other for his guide, for about twen-
ty-two pounds ; provided himself with letters of recommendation, and a
finnan from tlio pasha ; and leanng his servant and baggage at Assouan,
set out with his guide on the 14th of February, 1813, can-ying along
with him nothing but his gun, a saber, a pistol, a provision-bag, and a
woolen mantle, which served by day for a carpet, and for a covering
during the night.

Their road lay along the eastern bank of the Nile; they passed
PhiliD, and then pushed on with rapidity toward Derr, the capital of
Lower Nubia. The Mameluke chiefs, y/hh their desperate followers,
were at this period roaming about Nubia, indulging their imaginations
in vain projects for the recovery of Egypt. Every person coming from
the north was of course an object of curiosity, if not of suspicion, to
these baffled soldiers, as it was possible he might be the bearer of tidings
of events upon the results of which their fate depended. Such was the
state of things when Burckhardt entered Nubia.

Burckhardt arrived at Derr on the 1st of March, and, to his surprise,
found two Mameluke beys at the palace of the governor. He had reck-
oned upon their utter disappearance, and had intended, under these cir-
cumstances, to represent himself as the secret agent of the Pasha of
Egypt ; but learning, upon inquiry, that the pasha and his enemies were
regarded with nearly equal dread by the Nubian princes, he changed his
resolution, and professed to be guided in his notions by no other motive
than pleasure. Ignorant persons find it hard to conceive that men
can expose themselves to difficulties and dangers from an enthusiasm
for knowledge, or can find pleasure in encountering hardships and fa-
tigue; however, a concurrence of fortunate circumstances extorted from
the governor a permission to proceed, and accordingly, having provided
himself with provisions for the road, Burckhardt departed for Sukkot.

His guide on the present occasion was an old Arab of the Ababdeh
tribe. The branch of the Ababdeh to which this man, whose name was
Mohammed, belonged, feed their flocks on the uninhabited eastern banks
of the river, and on its numerous islands, as far south as Dongola.
Though poor, they refuse to bestow their daughters, who are famed for
their beauty, in marriage on the rich Nubians, and have thus preserved
the purity of their race. They are, moreover, an honest and hospitable
race, and during his journeys in Nubia, Burckhardt was constantly re-
ceived and treated with kindness by these simple people.*

In pursuing his course up the Nile, he passed a day at Ibreem, a town

* During my travels in Africa I had considerable intercourse with the Ababdehs, and
fully concur in Burckhardt'a opinion of their honesty and kindness. — B. T.

HARDT.

MAKING GRAVES.

209

irior of Africa occur-
us created, ajomney

his jounioy up the
igypt. His prcjiara-

He purchased two
uidc, for about twen-
;ommendation, and a

)aggage at Assouan,
1813, can-ying along
provision-bag, and a

and for a covering

le Nile; they passed
Derr, the capital of
• desperate followers,
ng their imaginations
Y person coining from
f not of suspicion, to
5 the bearer of tidings
ended. Such was the

h, and, to his surprise,
vemor. He had reck-
sndcd, under these cir-
igent of the Pasha of
i and his enemies were
princes, he changed his
ms by no other motive
to conceive that men
■8 from an enthusiasm
ing hardships and fa-
QStances extorted from
ingly, having provided
leparted for Sukkot.
Arab of the Ababdeh
man, whose name was
nhabited eastern banks
far south as Dongola.
ers, who are famed for
i have thus preserved
1 honest and hospitable
ardt was constantly re-
people.*
I day at Ibreem, a town

Tse with the Ababdehs, and
dness.— B. T.

inhabited by Turks, where, though quarrels and bloodshed were frequent,
property was more secure than in any other town he had visited in the
eastern world ; the com was left all night in the field, and the cattle on
the banks of the river, unwatched, and even the greater part of the
household furniture remained all night under the palm-trees around their
dwellings. Indeed, theft here was quite unknown. Proceeding a short dis-
tance to the south of this town, he dismounted from his dromedary, and
directing his guide to continue his route to the next village, struck off
into a narrow footpath along the lofty, precipitous shores of the river.
Pursuing this mountain-track, he arrived at an ancient temple hewn out
of the rock, in as perfect a state of preservation as when first finished.
Sepulchral chambers and mystic sculptures, the usual accompaniments
of Egyptian temples, were found here.

The reception which the traveler and his guide met with nt the
Nubian villages was generally hospitable ; as soon as they alighted, a
mat was spread for them upon the ground, just before the door of the
house, which none but intimate fiicnds are permitted to enter ; dhourra
bread, milk, and sometimes dates were placed before the strangers, and
their host, if earnestly pressed, sat down with them. Straw, when plen-
tiful, was likewise given to their camels ; and when the host desired to
be particularly hospitable, a breakfast of hot milk and bread was ser>'ed
up bef<^re their departure in the morning.

At length, on the 6th of March, they arrived on a sandy plain,
sprinkled with rocky points, which thrust up their heads through the
sand that concealed their bases. Here they encamped in the evening
near one of the islands which are formed by the river. The noise of the
cataract was heard in the night, at about half an hour's distance. The
place is very romantic : when the inundation subsides, many small lakes
are left among the rocks ; and the banks of these, overgrown with large
tamarisks, have a picturesque appearance amid the black and green
rocks ; the lakes and pools thus formed cover a space of upward of two
miles in breadth.

The Arabs who serve as guides through these wild districts, "have
devised," says Burckhardt, " a singular mode of extorting small presents
from the traveler : they alight at certain spots, and beg a present ; if it
is refused, they collect a heap of sand, and mould it into the form of
a diminutive tomb, and then placing a stone at each of its extremities,
they apprize the traveler that his tomb b made ; meaning that hencefor-
ward there will be no security for him in this rocky wilderness. Most
persons pay a trifling contribution rather than have their graves made
before their eyes ; there were, however, several tombs of this description
dispersed over the plain. Being satisfied with my guide, I gave him one
piaster, with which ho was content." At the next rocky pass, however,
the guide repeated the process, whereupon Burckhardt dismounted, and
making another tomb, told him it was intended for bis own sepulr nrj ;
for that, as they were brethren, it was but just they should be buried to-

210

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP BURCKFIARDT.

gcthor. At this, the guide began to laugh ; they then mutually de-
stroyed each other's labors, and in riding along, the latter exclaimed, from
the Koran, " No mortal knows the spot upon earth where his grave shall
be digged."

On his arrival in the territory of Sukkot, he presented to the gover-
nor the letter of which he was the bearer ; and received from this old
savugo a scrap of paper, containing an introduction to his sor, who was
the chief of the southern part of the district. Here the guide, who had
been granted him at Derr, reached the extremity of his commission, and
oimouncod his intention of returning from thence ; four piasters, how-
ever, overcame his determination, and ho agreed to proceed to Mahnss :
" If Hassan Kashi^" said he, " upbraids me, I shall tell him that you rode
on, notwithstanding my exhortations, and that I did not think it honora-
ble to leave you alone." An admirable custom prevails in this and every
other part of Nubia: water-jars are placed under a low roof at short dis-
tances by the roadside, where the traveler may always quench his thirst ;
and every village pays a small monthly sum to some person to fill those
jars morning and evening. The same thing is practiced upon a much
larger scale in Upper Egypt and in Asia Muior.

Upon Burckhardt's reaching the Mahass territory, he suddenly found
himself in the midst of the worst description of savages. The governor,
a ferocious black, received him in a hut, furiously intoxicated, and sur-
rounded by numerous followers in the same condition. In the midst of
their drunken mirth they called ibr their muskets, and amused them-
selves with firing in the hut. Burckhardt every moment expected that
a random ball would put an end to his travels ; but the palm wine at
length extended the whole of this atrocious rabble upon the ground,
and next morning, when sleep had somewhat restored the tone of the
governor's senses, he found time to question the traveler respecting the
motives of his visit. The story which he related to them was not be-
lieved. " You are an agent of Mohammed," said they ; " but at Mahass
we spit at Mohammed All's beard, and cut off the heads of those who
are enemies to the Mamelukes."* These suspicions, although they pro-
duced no immediate injury to his jiersonal safety, entirely put a stop to
his progress further south ; for he was now within two days and a half
of the limits of Dongola, where the Mamelukes were lords paramount,
and to enter their territories with the character of an agent of Moham-
med Ali, would be to court certain death. He therefore turned his face
toward the north, and traveled with all possible celerity along the east-
ern bank of the Nile, until he arrived at Kolbe, where he swam across the

* Thirty-nine years later, in the spring of 1852, 1 passed alone through the countries
of Dongola, Mahass and Sukkot, with the most perfect security. The King of Mahass
even embraced me affectionately at parting. This contrast shows how readily the suspi-
cion and mistrust which the first travelers generally have to encounter, on entering a new
country, gives place to oon&deuce and kindneas. — ^B. T.

ARDT.

then mutually de-
ter excluimcd, from
here his grave eball

ented to the pover-
vod from this old
,o his son, who was
the guide, who had
lis commission, and

four piasters, how-
proceed to Mahass :

him that you rode
not think it honora-
xils in this and every
ow roof at short dis-
rs quench his tliirst ;
! person to fill those
icticcd upon a much

y, he suddenly found
ges. The governor,
ntoxicated, and sur-
on. In the midst of
I, and amused them-
)ment expected that
jut the palm wine at
lie upon the ground,
ored the tone of the
aveler respecting the

to them was not be-
hey ; " but at Mahass
I heads of those who
8, although they pro-
entirely put a stop to

two days and a half
ere lords paramount,

an agent of Moham-
srefore turned his face
elerity along the east-
re he swam across the

lone through the countries
ity. The King of Mahaas
ow» how readily the suspi-
koounter, oa entering a new

RETURN TO EGYPT.

211

river, holding by his camel's tail with one hand, and urging on tho beast
with the other.

Hurckhardt now descended the Nile to Abou-Simbel, the vast rocky
temple of which ho supposed to bo of extremely ancient date. lie hero
found four colossal statues of enormous magnitude, which had been
hewn out of tho rock, on tho face of an elevated clift*, with their backs
adhering to tho precipice. Tho fine sand of tho desert had been blown
up into mounds against tho rock, and covered two of these statues al-
most entirely ; the rest rose somewhat above the surface. The faces of
these colo.ssal statues arc turned toward the north. " The head, which
is above tho surface," says he, " has a most expressive youthful counte-
nance, approaching nearer to tho Grecian model of beauty than that of
any ancient Egyptian figure I have seen ; indeed, were it not for a thin,
oblong beard, it might well pass for a head of Pallas."

From Abou-Stmbel he continued his journey to Derr, where he parted
with bis guide, who, on taking his leave, begged as a present tho
mcllayo, or cloak, which the traveler usually wore. To this request
Burckbardt replied, " May God smooth your path !" — a phrase usually
addressed to beggars when they are civilly told to bo gone. " No,"
said the Arab, who had often employed this phrase when he desired to
elude tho questions of the travekr, " for onco I will beg you to smooth
it." " So," says Burckhardt, " I j»ave him the mellaye, and a small pres-
ent in money ; and am confident vhat Abou Saad will never forget me."

On his return to Assouan, Burcktiurdt's first care was to repair, by re-
pose, tho inroads which fatigue had made upon his constitution. He
then repdred to Esno, where he established his head-quarters. It being
his policy to excite but little attention, ho very seldom went into com-
pany, dressed meanly, and reduced his expenditure to tho lowest possible
sura. The cheapness of provisions was incredible. His whole expendi-
ture for himself, his servant, his dromedary, and his ass, not exceeding
thirty-five cents per day, while his horse cost him no more than thirty
cents per month.

Here ho remained until tho 2d of March, 1814, when he joined him-
self, as a petty trader, to another caravan, which was proceeding from
Doraou to Berber. The caravan, consisting of about fifty merchants,
with their slaves and beasts, moved under the protection of about thirty
Ababdeh Arabs, who, though no heroes or philosophers, were not re-
markably deficient either in courage or humanity. Burckhardt, on this
occasion, possessed no command over his own movements. He traveled,
halted, ate, slept, in obedience to tho fantasy of the caravan-leaders, who
were ignorant, however, that the humble trader, whom they regarded
at most vrith compassion, was at that moment forming reflections and
bringing observations to maturity, which were destined to affect tho
opinion enteitained by the civilized world of their character and pursuits.
Meanwhile the merchants, who were chiefly engaged in the debasing
traffic of slaves, and, a may be supposed, cherished no respect for any

ii
t

212

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF DCBCKHARDT.

tiling hut riches, and tho power which riches cominandH, looked upon
their humble cuinpiiniun with undisgiiiiicd contempt. They constantly
treated him with contumely, though he protessed a belief in the same
law and the Hamo prophets ; plundered his water-flkins, or obstructed Km
filling them at tho wells, thus ex[K)Hing him to the danger of perishing
of thirst ; circulated in tho towns where they stopped the report that lie
was a spy ; and, in short, put in practice every art which their malice
could conceive in order to disgust him with tho trade, and thus free
themselves from a new competitor.

At tho end of a week's journoy tho caravan arrived at the celebrated
wells of El Ilnimar, in tho vicinity of wliich they found tho tomb of a
Mameluke chief, who died on this spot. "His companions, having
inclosed the naked corpse within low walls of loose stones, had covered
it over with a large block. Tho dryness of the air had preserved tho
cor[)so in the most perfect state. Looking at it through tho interstices
of the stones which enveloped it, it appeared to me a more perfect
mummy than any I had seen in Egypt. Tho mouth was wide open, and
our guide related that tho man had died for want of water, although so
near tho wells." Next day they passed Wady OUaky, a fine valley ex-
tending east and west from tlie Nile to the Red Sea. Here were numer-
ous trees and excellent pasture, advantages which caused it to be re-
garded with peculiar veneration by the Bedouins ; and every man, as he
traversed it on his asa or camel, took a handful of dhourra and threw it
on the ground as a kind of pious offering to the good genius of the
Wady. On the follo\ving day, in crossmg Wady El Towashy, or the
Valley of the Eunuch, Burckhardt saw the tomb of that Mahomet Tow-
ash whose body was found on the sands by Bruce three days after ho
bad been murdered by his guides.

Burckhardt gives the following account of the impositions and hard-
ships which he was obliged to endure in the course of this journey : " I
was often driven from the coolest and most comfortable berth into the
burning sun, and generally passed the midday hours in great distress ;
for beside the exposure to heat, I had to cook my dinner, a service which
I could never prevail upon any of my companions, even the poorest serv-
ants, to perform for me, though I offered to let them share my homely
fare. In the evening the same labor occurred again, when fatigued by
tlie day's journey, during Avhich I always walked for four or five hours,
in order to spare my ass, and when I was in the utmost need of repose.
Hunger, however, always prevailed over fatigue, and I was obliged to
fetch and cut wood, to light a fire, to cook, to feed the ass, and finally
to make coffee, a cup of which, presented to my Daraou companions,
who were extremely eager to obtain it, was the only means I possessed
of keeping them in tolerable good-humor. A good night's rest, however,
always repaired my strength, and I was never in better health and
spirits than during this journey, although its fatigues were certainly very
great, and much beyond my expectation. The common dish of all the

lARDT.

BOARCITY OP WATKR.

218

inandH, looked upon
They constantly
a belief in the saiiiu
ns, or obstructed Iii.H
danger of perishing
cd the report that he
which their malice
trade, and thus free

cd at the celebrated
found the tomb of a
companions, having
e stones, had covered
ir had preserved the
trough the interstices
) me a more perfect
th was wide open, and
of water, although so
laky, a fine valley ex-
Here were numer-
h caused it to bo rc-
and every man, as ho
dhourra and threw it
le good genius of the
y El Towashy, or the
of that Mahomet Tow-
:o three days after ho

3 impositions and hard-
se of this journey : " I
brtable berth into the
3urs in great distress;

dinner, a service which
s, even the poorest serv-
hem share my homely
^ain, when fatigued by

for four or five hours,

utmost need of repose.
), and I was obliged to
jed the ass, and finally
ay Daraou companions,

only means I possessed
id night's rest, however,
ir in better health and
rues were certainly very
common dish of all the

travelers at noon was fetyre, which is flour mixed up with water into a
liquid paste, and then baked u\yon the sadj, or iron pliitn ; butter is then
poured over it, or honey, or Hometimes a sauce is miulo of butter and
dried bamye. In the evening some lentils are boiled, or sotno bread is
baked with salt, either u|)on the sadj or in ashes, and a sauce of bamye,
or onion, poured over lentils, or upon the bread, after it has been erum-
bled into small pieces. Early in the morning every one cats a piece of
dry biscuit, with some raw onions or dates."

On the 14th of March, on arriving at the Wady el Nabeh, they fotuid
the celebrated wells of that valley insufficient to 8upi)ly the caravan until
they should reach the rocks of Shigre, and as no water was anj »vhcro
to be found in the intervening space, they were reduced to the greatest
perplexity. " Upon such occasions as these," says Burckhardt, " every
:nan gives his opinion r and mine was, that we should kill our thirty-five
asses, whi(;h required a daily supply of at least fifteen water-skins, that
we should load the camels to the utmost of their strength with water,
and strike out a straight way through the desert toward Berber, with-
out touching at Shigre ; in this manner wo might perform the journey in
five forced marches." This plan the Arabs refused to follow. They
repaired their water-skins and their sandals, refreshed themselves with
bathing in the cool wells, and then set out. But " it was not without
great apprehension," says our traveler, " that I departed from this place.
Our camels and asses carried water for three or four days only, and I
saw no possibility of escaping from the dreadful effects of a want of
water. In order to keep my ass in good spirits, I took off the two small
water-skins with which I had hitherto loaded him, and paid one of the
Ababdchs tour dollars to carry four small water-skins as far as Berber ;
for I thought that if the ass could carry me, I might bear thirst for two
days at least, but that if he should break down, I should certainly not
be able to^walk one whole day without water in this hot season of the
year."

Notwithstanding all theso difficulties and sufferings, Burckhardt con-
sidered the Nubian desert, at least as far south as Shigre, far less ter-
rible than that of Syria or Tyh. Trees and water arc much more fre-
quent, and though it is intersected in various directions by mountains
of naked rock, the more desolate and awful appearance which it acquires
from this circumst mce is, in a great measure, compensated for by its
consequent grande ir and variety. " Here," says he, " during the whole
day's march, we were surrounded on all sides by lakes of the mirage,
called by the Arabs Serab. Its color was of the purest azure, and so
clear that the shadows of the mountains that bordered the horizon were
reflected on it with the greatest precision, and the delusion of its being
a sheet of water was thus rendered still more perfect." This appearance,
however, only served to heighten the terrors which the scarcity of real
water excited. Every man now began to attach the greatest importance
to the small stock he possessed. Burckhardt, who possessed but two

iXLS^S£L'saBa^sa!::i:^^ss!S:sr^£33lssz^::z::-

- '^"-fir ^j' ., ^

214

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP BDRCKHARDT.

draughts, drank the half of it at once, reserving the remainder for the
next day ; but, observing the general scarcity, shared the dejection of
his companions. At length, their condition having become nearly des-
perate, they adopted the course recommended by the Ababdeh chief,
and dispatched ten or twelve of their companions, mounted on as many
camels, to the nearest part of the Nile, which was not more than five or
six hours distant ; but as its banks were inhabited by fierce cribes, noth-
ing but the fear of instant death could have forced them to this step.
They timed their march in such a manner, that they Avould reach the
banks of the river by night ; when they were directed to select some
uninhabited spot, and having there loaded their camels, to return with
all spcf d. " We passed the evening,'' says Burckhardt, " in the greatest
anxiety, for if the camels should not return, we had little hopes of escape
either from thirst or from the sword of our enemies, who, if they had
once got sight of our camels, would have followed their footsteps
through the desert, and would certainly have discovered us." Many
of my companions came in the course of the evening to beg some water
of me, but I had well hidden my treasure, and answered them by show-
ing my empty skins. We remained the greater part of the night in
silent and sullen expectation of the result of our desperate mission. At
length, about three o'clock in the morning, we heard the distant halloo-
ings of our companions ; and soon after refreshed ourselves with copious
draughts of the delicious water of the Nile."

This was ii;o last of their sufierings on this route; on the 23d of
March, they entered on a plain with a slight slope toward the river,
which was felt at more than two hours' distance by the greater moisture
of the air. The Arabs exclaimed, " God be praised, we again smell the
Nile !" and about ten o'clock at night, the caravan entered the town of
Ankheyreh, or El Mekheyref, the capital of the country of Berber.
Burckhardt's residence at this place was nothing but one "continued
series of annoyances. The principal delight of the whole population,
among whom drunkenness and debauchery were scarcely accounted
vices, seemed to consist in deluding and plundering travelers, who on
all the envenomed soil of Africa could scarcely be exposed to more irri-
tating insults or extortion than on this spot.

The caravan, now reduced to about two thirds of its original number,
several of the merchants having returned to Egypt, while others re-
mained at Berber to dispose of their goods, again put itself in motion on
the 7th of April. Burckhardt, who had hitherto attached himself to the
merchant portion of the party, several of whom, previous to their leaving
Egypt, had received benefits at his hands, was here driven by abuse and
contumely to take refuge among the Ababdehs, who not only willingly
received him as their companion, but exercised their influence, on more
than one occasion, to protect him from violence. Pursuing a southerly
direction for three days, they arrived at the town of Damer, which,
under the government of a number of religious men, had attained a very

i^iU-

ARDT.

ADVENTURE AT DAMER.

215

! remainder for the
•ed the dejection of
become nearly des-
the Ababdch chief,
mounted on as many
not more than five or
y fierce tribes, noth-
them to this Ktep.
ley would reach the
ccted to select some
amcis, to return with
irdt, " in the greatest
little hopes of escape
lies, who, if they had
owed their footsteps
scovered us." Many
ng to beg some water
wered them by show-
part of the night in
esperate mission. At
ard the distant halloo-
ourselves with copious

route ; on the 23d of
lope toward the river,
ly the greater moisture
led, we again smell the
II entered the town of
le country of Berber.
ng but one 'continued

the whole population,
ire scarcely accotmted
ring travelers, who on
! exposed to more irri-

of its original number,
Jgypt, while others re-
I put itself in motion on
attached himself to the
revious to their leaAring
re driven by abuse and
who not only willingly
beir influence, on more
Pursuing a southerly
own of Damer, which,
en, had attained a very

high pitch of prosperity. Their sanctity, indeed, was considerably aided
by their skill in magic, which, as Burckhardt was credibly informed,
was so great that, on one occasion, the Faky el Kebir, or Great Fakeer,
caused a lamb to bleat in the stomach of the thief Avho had stolen, nnd
afterward eaten it. As Burckhardt needed a few measures of dhourra
for his ass, and found it impracticable to purchase less than a dollar's
worth, which would have been more than ho could carry, ho was im-
der the necessity of imitating his companions, and went from house to
bouse with some strings of beads in his hands, offering them for sale
at about four handfuls of dhourra for each bead. " I gained at this
rate," says he, "about sixty per cent, above the prime cost, and had at
the same time an opportunity of entering many private houses. I re-
peated these walks every day during our stay. One afternoon, while
crying my beads for sale, I was accosted by a faky, who asked me if I
could read. On my answering in the affirmative, ho desired me to fol-
low him to a place where, he said, I might expect to get a good dinner.
He then led me to a house where I found a great number of people,
collected to celebrate the memory of some relative lately deceased.
Several fakies were reading the Koran in a low tone of voice. A great
faky afterward came in, Avhose arrival was the signal for reciting the
Koran in loud songs, in the manner customary in the East, in which I
joined them. This was continued for about half an hour, until dinner
was brought in, which was very plentiful, as a cow had been killed upon
the occasion. After a hearty meal, we recommenced our reading. One
of the shekhs produced a basketful of white pebbles, over which several
prayers were read. These pebbles were destined to bo strewed over
the tomb of the deceased in the manner which I had often observed
upon tombs freshly made. Upon my inquiries respecting this custom,
which I confessed to have never before seen practiced in any Moham-
medan country, the faky answered that it was a mere meritorious action :
that there was no absolute necessity for it : but that it was thought that
the soul of the deceased, when hereafter visiting the tomb, might bo
glad to find these pebbles, in order to use them as beads in addressing
Its prayers to the Creator. When the reading was over, the women be-
gan to sing and howl. I then left; the room, and on taking my depart-
ure my kind host put some bones of roasted meat in my hand to serve
for my supper."

In proceeding from this place to Shendy the caravan was accom-
panied by several fakies, whose presence was found to be a sufficient
protection against the Nubian Bedouins. They reached Shendy on the
17th of April, and this being, next to Scnnaar and Kobbe, the largest
town in eastern Soudan, they remained here a whole month, during
which time Burckhardt enjoyed an ample opportunity of collecting mate-
rials for an account of this and the neighboring countries. Crocodiles are
numerous in this part of the Nile. They are much dreaded by the in-
habitants, who, when repairing to its banks for water or to wash their

216

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF BURCKUAEDT.

linen, arc in constant fear of these creatures. Burckhardt ate of the
crocodile's flesh, which he found of a dirty white color, not unlike young
veal, with a slight fishy smell.

At Shendy Bur khardt abandoned all idea of proceeding further
south ; and, in order to procure himself some little civility from his former
companions, circulated the report that he intended to return directly to
Egypt, where, by describing to the pasha their conduct toward him
during the journey, he might do them considerable injury. This strata-
gem succeeded. Their civility and aifectcd friendship now surpassed
their former insolence. In the mean while, understanding that a caravan
was about to set out for Souakin on the Red Sea, our traveler prevailed
on the Ababdeh chief to introduce and recommend him aa his own friend
to its leader. Here he disposed of his merchandise, and purchased a
slave-boy to attend upon him on the ro.nd ; and having laid in the neces-
sary quantity of provisions, joined the Souakin caravan, and departed
from Shendy on the 17th of May. "After all my accounts were settled,"
says he, " I had four dollars left ; but the smallness of the sum occasioned
me no uneasiness, for I calculated on selling my camel on the coast for
as much as would defray the expenses of my voyage to Jidda, and I had
a letter of credit on that place for a considerable sum, which I had pro-
cured at Cairo."

The road now traversed by the caravan crossed the Atbara, the As-
taboras of the ancients, on the banks of which they found numerous
groves of trees and the most luxuriant vegetation. At the sight of
this the imagination even of the slave-dealers was touched Avith enthu-
siasm ; and in alluding to the dreary track over which they had traveled,
one of tliem exclaimed, " After death comes paradise !" " There was a
greater variety of natural vegetation here than I had seen anywhere on
the banks of the Nile, in Egypt. 1 observed diflerent species of the
mimosa, doom-trees of the largest size, whose luxuriant clusters of fruit
excited the wishes of the slaves, the nebek-trec, with its fruit ripe ; the
allobe, of the size of the ncbek, besides a great number of others un-
known to me ; to these may be added an abundance of wild herbage,
growing on a rich, fat soil similar to that of Egypt. The trees were in-
habited by great numbers of the feathered tribe, whose song travelers
in Egypt very rarely hear. I saw no birds vnth rich plumage, but ob-
served small ones of several different kinds. Some sweet notes struck
my ears, which I had never before heard, and the amorous cooings of
the turtle-dove were unceasing. We hastened to the river and eagerly
descended its low banks to allay our thirst. Several camels, at the sight
of the water, broke the halters by which they were led, and in rushing
or stumbling down the banks threw off their loads, and occasioned great
clamor and disorder."

In the vicinity of Goz Rajeb, on the Atbara, Burckhardt saw on the
summit of a hill the ruins of a huge fabric of ancient times, but was de-
terred from visiting it by the assertion of his companions that it was the

UARDT.

rckhardt ate of the
or, not unlike young

proceeding further

vility from his former

to return directly to

onduct toward him

injury. This strata-

islilp now ourpassed

nding that a caravan

ur traveler prevailed

lim as his own friend

ise, and purchased a

ing laid in the neces-

iravan, and departed

;counts were settled,"

of the sum occasioned

amcl on the coast for

e to Jidda, and I had

um, which I had pro-

1 the Atbara, the As-
,hey found numerous
m. At the sight of
touched with enthu-
lich they had traveled.
Use !" " There was a
lad seen anywhere on
ffercnt species of the
iriant clusters of fruit
rith its fruit ripe ; the
number of others un-
uice of wild herbage,
t. The trees were in-
Avhose song travelers
ich plumage, but ob-
e sweet notes struck
I amorous cooings of
the river and eagerly
al camels, at the sight
re led, and in rushing
I and occasioned great

urckhardt saw on the
3nt times, but was de-
lanions that it was the

JOURNEY THROUOn TAKKA.

217

haunt of banditti. On the 5th of June, while the caravan halted at an
encampment of the Hadendoa Bedouins, Burckhardt beheld tlio eflccts
of a desert storm : " Toward evening we were visited by another hur-
ricane, the most tremendous I ever remember to have witnessed. A
dark blue cloud first appeared, extending to about 25° above the hori-
zon ; as it approached nearer and increased in height, it assumed an
ash-gray color, with a tinge of yellow, striking every person in tlie carsi-
van who had not been accustomed to such phenomena with amazement
at its magnificent and terrific appearance ; as the cloud approached still
nearer the yellow tinge became more general, while the horizon presented
the brightest azure. At last it burst upon us in its rapid course, and in-
volved us in darkness and confusion ; nothing could be distinguished at
the distance of five or six feet ; our eyes were filled with dust ; our tem-
porary sheds were blown down at the first gust, and many of tlic more
firmly fixed tents of the Hadendoa followed ; the largest withstood for
a time the efiects of the blast, but were at last obliged to yield, and the
whole camp was leveled with the ground. In the mean time the terri-
fied camels arose, broke the cords by which thej were fastened, and en-
deavored to escape from the destruction which appeared to threaten
them ; thus adding not a little to our embarrassment. After blowing
about half an hour with incessant violence, the wind suddenly abated,
and when the atmosphere became clear, the tremendous cloud was seen
continuing its havoc to the north-west "

Next day they reached Takka, a district famous for its fertility, where
hares, gazelles, wolves, giraflfes, and lions, as large, it was said, as cows,
were foimd in the woods. Hence, after a stay of several days, they de-
parted for Souakin, and after a not unpleasant journey through a wild,
picturesque country, approached the termination of their toils. On the
moniing of the last day they started before sunrise. "The eastern
hills," says Burckhardt, '• terminate in this latitude ; and the sun was
just rising beyond them when we descried its reflection at an immense
distance in the sea, affording a pleasing sight to every individual in the
caravan, but most of all to me." The whole of the route, from Shendy
to Souakin, had never before been traversed by a European. At length,
on the 26th of June, they reached Souakin, and pitched their little sheda
at about twenty minutes' walk from the town. Next day they were
visited by the emir, who, understanding that our traveler's camel was
an excellent animal, determined on takmg it as a part of the caravan
dues; upon which Burckhardt insisted upon referring their difference
to the Turkish custom-house officer. His wishes were quickly complied
with, but the aga, instead of interfering to protect the stranger, imme-
diately conceived the idea of uniting with the emir in seizing ui)on the
whole of his property; and, therefore, pretending to regard liim as a
Mameluke spy, began at once to overwhelm him with abuse. To all
this Burckhardt returned no reply, but requested the aga to inform him
whether the emir was entitled to his camel. " Not only thy camel," re-

218

LIFE AND TRAVELS OP BUnOKHARDT.

it"

plied the Turk, " but thy whole baggage must be taken and searched.
We shall render a good account of them to the pasha, depend upon it.
You shall not impose upon us, you rascal ; and you may be thankful if
we do not cut off your head !" The traveler protested that he was noth-
ing but an unfortunate merchant, and endeavored, by a submissive de-
iwrtment, to pacify his anger ; but " he began cursing and swer-ring in
Turkish," says Burckhardt, "and then calling an old cripple, to whom he
had given the title of waly, or police officer, he ordered him to tie my
hands, to put me in prison, and to bring my slave and baggage into his
presence, I now thought it high time to produce my firmans, which I
drew from a secret pocket in my thaboot ; one of them was written in
Turkish, upon a piece of paper two feet and a half in length, and one
foot in breadth, and was sealed with the great seal of Mohammed Ali ;
the other, a smaller one, was written in Arabic, and bore the seal of
Ibraliim Pasha, his son, in which Ibrahim termed me ' Our man, Ibrahim,
the Syrian.' When Yemak saw the firmans unfolded, he became com-
pletely stupefied, and the persons present looked at me with amazement.
The aga could read the Arabic only, but he kissed them both, put them
to his forehead, and then protested to me, in the most submissive terms,
that it was the good of the public service alone that had led him to treat
me as he had done, and for which he begged me a thousand pardons.
Nothing more was said about the emir's right to my camel, and he de-
clared that I should pay no duty for my slave, though he was entitled

to it."

Burckhardt now disposed of his camel, and took his passage to Jidda
in one of the country vessels.' After tossing about the Red Sea for
nearly a fortnight, visiting Mekouar, and several pomts of the African
coast, he arrived at Jidda on the 18th of July, 1814. His first care now
was to present his letter of credit, which, being of an old date, he was
refused payment, though the merchant offered him a lodging at his
house. This he accepted, but removed two days afterward to a public
khan, where ho was attacked by a fever, in which he lay delirious for
several days. His recovery from this violent disorder, which he attributed
to his indulging in the fine fruits of the Jidda market, seems to Lave
been chiefly owing to the kindness of a Greek captain, who, having been
his fellow-passenger from Souakin, attended him during one of his lucid
intervals, and, at his own request, procured a barber, who bled him
copiously.

JOURNET TO MECCA AND MEDINA.

At Jidda Burckhardt was reduced to the hard necessity of parting
with his slave, for whom he obtained forty-eight dollars, of which thirty-
two were profit. With this money he dressed himself in the guise of a
reduced Egyptian gentleman, and determined to remain in the Hedjaz
untU the time of the pUgrimage in the following November. However,

s£!si^is&tm.

HARDT.

taken and searched,
wha, depend upon it.
H may be thankful if
ted that he was noth-
hy a submissive de-
jing and swer-ring in
I cripple, to whom he
rdered him to tie my
md baggage into his
ray firmans, which I
them was written in
f in length, and one
I of Mohammed Ali ;
md bore the seal of
B ' Our man, Ibrahim,
ded, he became com-
me with amazement,
them both, put them
lost Bubmissive terms,
I, had led him to treat
a thousand pardons,
my camel, and he de-
ough ho was entitled

k his passage to Jidda
out the Red Sea for
points of the African
4. His first care now
f an old date, he was
iiim a lodging at his
afterward to a public
I he lay delirious for
er, which he attributed
aarket, seems to Lave
tain, who, having been
luring one of his lucid
»arber, who bled him

EDINA.

i necessity of parting
oUars, of which thirty-
nself in the guise of a
remain in the Hedjaz
November. However,

VISIT TO MOHAMMED ALI.

219

as his funds were far too low to enable him to live independently until
that period, he began to turn his thoughts toward manual labor ; but
first determined upon trying the effect of a direct application to Moham-
med Ali, then at Tayf. He accordingly wrote to his highnesses Arme-
nian physician, who was likewise at Tayf with his master, requesting him
to learn from the pasha whether ho would accept a bill upon Burck-
hardt's correspondent at Cairo, and order his treasurer at Jidda to pay
the amount of it. Before the result of this application could be known,
he received an invitation to the house of Toossoon Pasha's physician, v.ho,
on being acquainted >vith the state of his finances, kindly offered him the
sum of three thousixnd piasters (about $160) for a bill upon Cairo pay-
able at sight. Mohammed Ali, to whom his condition was accidentally
made known, immediately dispatched a messenger with two dromeda-
ries, an order lor five hundred piasters, and a request that he would repair
immediately with the messenger to Tayf. With this invitation, which
was, in fact, equivalent to a command, he thought it necessary to com-
ply, and .accordingly set off" on the same afternoon (24th Atigust) for the
interior of the Hedjaz.

They were accompanied during the first portion of the way by about
twenty camel-drivers of the tribe of Harb, who were carrying money to
Mecca for the pasha's treasury. The road at first lay over a barren
sandy plain, ascending slightly as it receded from the sea ; it then en-
tered the narrow gorges of a mountainous country, where they overtook
a caravan of pilgrims, who were accompanying a quantity of goods and
provisions destined for the army. The pasha, who, no doubt, suspected
the sincerity of Burckhardt's creed, had given orders to the guide to con-
duct him by a by-road to Tayf, which lay to the north of Mecca : " Just
before we left Hadda," says Burckhardt, " my guide, who knew nothing
further respecting me than that I had business with the pasha at Tay^
that I performed all the outward observances of a Moslem pilgrim, and
that I had been liberal to him before our departure, asked me the reason
of his having been ordered to take lue by the northern road. I replied
that it was probably thought shorter than the other. ' That is a mistake,'
he replied ; ' the Mecca road is quite as short, and much safer ; and if you
have no objection we will proceed by it.' This was just what I wished,
though I had taken care not to betray any anxiety on the subject ; and
we accordingly followed the great road, in company with the other trav-
elers."

On this occasion, however, Burckhardt saw but little of the sacred
city, as the guide, who had no curiosity to gratify, hurried through the
streets without allowing him time for observation. Continuing their
journey, therefore, toward the east, they arrived, on the 27th of August,
at Ras el Kora, where they passed the night. "This," says the traveler,
" is the most beautiful spot in the Hedjaz, and more picturesque and de-
lightful than any spot I had seen since my departure from Lebanon, in
Syria. The top of Jebel Kora is flat, but large masses of granite lie scat-

HMM

timmmi0t0i

220

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF BUROKHARDT.

tered over it, the surface of which, like that of the granite rocks near the
second cataract of the Nile, is blackened by the sun. Several small rivu-
lets descend from this peak, and irrigate the plain, which is covered with
verdant iields and large shady trees, on the side of the granite rocks.
To those who have only known the dreary and scorching sands *i the
lower country of the Hcdjaz, this Rccne is as surprising as the keen air
which blows here is refreshing. Many of the fruit-trees of Europe are
found here ; figs, apricots, peaches, apples, the Egyptian sycamore, al-
monds, pomegranates ; but particularly vines, the produce of which is of
the best quality. After having passed through this delightful district
for about half an hour, just as the sun was rising, when every leaf and
blade of grass was covered with a balmy dew, and every tree and shrub
diffused a fragrance as delicious to the smell as was the landscape to the
eye, I halted near the largest of the rivulets, which, although not more
than two paces across, nourishes upon its banks a green alpine tur^
such as the mighty Nile, with all its luxuriance, can never produce in
Egpyt."

Upon reaching Tay^ he caused his arrival to be made known to the
pasha, who, upon learning his desire to visit the Holy Cities, expressed a
wish to see him late in the evening at his public residence, and observed
to the Kadi of Mecca, who happened to be present, " It is not the beard
alone which proves a man to be a true Moslem ; but you are a better
judge in such matters than I am." Our traveler, on learning these par-
ticulars, affected to be much hurt by the pasha's suspicions, and let the
physician, who was the bearer of the message, know that he should not
go to the pasha's public audience unless he was received as a Turk.
When the physician delivered this message, Mohammed Ali smiled, and
said that he was welcome, whether Turk or not. On this occasion he
•was closely catech'zed by two experienced teachers of the Moslem faith,
who declared to the pasha that he was not only a true Mussulman, but
one of great learning and piety. The audience passed off well. But
Burckhardt clearly discovered that he was regarded as a spy of the En-
glish government ; that his conduct was narrowly watched ; and that, in
being made the guest of the physician, he was a kind of prisoner, whose
words and actions were reported to the pasha. This was by no means
an agreeable position. He therefore determined to be delivered from it ;
and, in order to effect his purpose, adopted the most prudent plan that
could have been imagined : he rendered himself so troublesome and ex-
pensive to his host, that the latter, in order to be freed from him, repre-
sented him in the most favorable light to Mohammed Ali, and contrived
to obtain him permission to spend the last days of the Ramadan at Mecca.

Accordingly, on the 7th of September, Burckhardt departed in com-
pany with the Kadi for the Holy City. On passing Wady Mohram, he
assumed the ihram, the dress worn by all pilgrims during the Hadji, and
consisting of two pieces of linen, woolen, or cotton cloth, one of which is
wrapped round the loins, while the other is thrown over the neck and

ARDT.

jiite rocks near the

Several small rivu-

ich is covered with

the granite rocks.

ching sands rf the

ing as the keen air

ees of Europe are

)tian sycamore, al-

(duce of which is of

delightful district

fhen every leaf and

ery tree and shrub

the landscape to the

, although not more

green alpine turf,

n never produce in

made known to the
Y Cities, expressed a
dence, and observed
" It is not the beard
jut you are a better
n learning these par-
spicions, and let the
nr that he should not
received as a Turk,
imed Ali smiled, and
On thin occasion he
of the Moslem faith,
true Mussulman, but
>assed off well. But
d as a spy of the En-
ivatched ; and that, in
nd of prisoner, whose
his was by no means
be delivered from it ;
)st prudent plan that
I troublesome and ex-
reed from him, repre-
ed Ali, and contrived
le Ramadan at Mecca,
irdt departed in comr
g Wady Mohram, he
during the Hadji, and
cloth, one of which is
a over the neck and

RESIDENCE AT MECCA.

221

shoiddcrs, so as to leave part of the right arm bare. In this dress he
arrived at Mecca, on the 0th of September ; and, as the law enjoins, pro-
ceeded immediately to visit the temple, before he had attended to any
worldly concern whatever. The ceremonies practiced on this occasion
are long and tedious. Having completed these performances, he hired
a ready-furnished lodging in the house of a metowwaf, or guide to the
holy places ; who, while the poor Hadji was occupied with his devotions,
employed his spare moments industriously in stealing whatever he could
from his traveling-sack.

Being desirous of completing his traveling equipments before tlio
commencement of the Iladj (pilgrimage), Burckhardt proceeded to Jidda,
where such things are more easily procured than at Mecca, and again
returned about the middle of October, with a slave-boy whom he pur-
chased. He hired apartments in an unfrequented part of the city,
where he enjoyed the advantage of several large trees growing before
his windows, "the verdure of which," says he, "among the barren and
sunburnt rocks of Mecca, was to me more exhilarating than the finest
landscape could have been under different circumstances." The princi-
pal curiosity of Mecca is the beit vUah, or House of God, a species of
quadrangle, in the center of which stands the Kaaba, " an oblong mass-
ive structure, eighteen paces in length, fourteen in breadth, and from
thirty-five to forty feet in height. It is constructed of the gray Mecca
stone, in large blocks of different sizes, joined together in a very rough
manner, and with bad cement." " At the north-east corner of the
Kaaba, near the door, is the famous ' Black Stone ;' it forms a part of
the sharp angle of the building at four or five feet above the ground.
It is an irregular oval of about seven inches in diameter, with an undu-
lating surface, composed of about a dozen smaller stones of different
sizes and shapes, well joined together with a small quantity of cement,
and perfectly smoothed. It looks as if the whole had been broken into
many pieces by a violent blow, and then united again. It is very diffi-
cult to determine accurately the quality of this stone, which has been
worn to its present surface by the millions of touches and kisses it has
received. It appeared to me like a lava, containing several small extra-
neous particles, of a whitish and of a yellowish substance. Its color is
now a deep reddish brown, approaching to black. It is surrounded on
all sides by a border, composed of a substance which I took to be a
close cement of pitch and gravel, of a similar, but not quite the same,
brownish color. This border serves to support its detached pieces. It
is two or three inches in breadth, and rises a little above the surface
of the stone. Both the border and the stone itself are encircled by a
silver band, broader below than above, and on the two sides, with a
considerable swelling below, as if a part of the stone were hidden under
it. The lower part of the border is studded with silver nails."

On the 2l8t of November, 1814, the approach of the Syrian caravan
was announced by a messenger, whose horse dropped down dead the

222

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF BURCKHARDT.

moment lie (liHmountcd. Several other persons followed in about two
Lours utler ; and during the night the main body, with the Pasha of
Damascus at its head, come up, and encamped in the plain of Shekh
Maluuoud. Xext morning the Egyptian caravan likewise arrived ; and
at the same time Mohammed Ali, who desired to be present at the Hadj,
appeared unexpectedly at Mecca, dressed in an ihram composed of two
magnificent shawls of Cashmere. All the hadjis residing in the city now
assumed the ihram, with the usual ceremonies, at their own lodgings,
preparatory to their setting out for Mount Arafat, and at noon heard a
short sermon in the mosque.

The city was now full of- movement and activity; all the pilgrims
were preparing to set out for Arafat, some running hither and thither in
search of lodgings, others \'isiting the markets or the Kaaba. Many
Meccans, engaged in petty traffic, were hastening to establit^h them-
selves on the mountain, for the accommodation of the pilgrims. Camel-
drivers led their beasts through the streets, offering tiicm to the pilgrims
for hire. On the 24th of November the Syrian caravan, >vith the Mah-
mal, or sacred camel, in front, passed in procession through the city.
The majority of the pilgrims rode in a species of palanquin, placed upon
their camels ; but the Pasha of Damascus, and other grandees, were
mounted in splendid litters, which were borne by two camels. The
heads of these picturesque animals were decorated with feathers, tassels,
and bells. Crowds of people of all classes lined the streets, and greeted
the pilgrims as they passed with loud acclamations and praise. The
martial music of the pasha, twelve finely-caparisoned horses led in front
of liis palanquin, and the rich litters in which his women rode, particu-
larly attracted attention. The Egyptian caravan followed soon after,
and, consisting entirely of military pilgrims in the splendid Turkish cos-
tume, was no less admired than its predecessor. Both continued, with-
out stopping, their march to Arafat, and were almost immediately fol-
lowed by the other pilgrims in the city, and by far the greater proportion
of the population of Mecca and Jidda, among whom Burckhardt likewise
proceeded to the sacred hill.

He reached the camp about three hours after sunset. The pilgrims
were still wandering about the plain, and among the tents, in search of
their companions, or of their resting-place, and many did rot arrive until
midnight. Numberless fires glimmered upon the dark plain to the ex-
tent of several miles; and high and brilliant clusters of lamps marked
the different places of encampment of Mohammed Ali, Soleyman Pasha,
and the Emir el Hadj of the Egyptian caravan. Few slept : " the de-
votees set up praying, and their loud chants were particularly distin-
guished on the side of the Syrian encampment. The merry Meccans
formed themselves into parties, singing jovial songs, accompanied by
clapping of hands ; and the coffee-houses scattered over the plain were
crowded all night with customers. The night was dark and cold. I
had formed a resting-place for myself by means of a large carpet tied

HARDT.

CEREMONIES AT MOUNT ARAFAT.

223

lowed in about two
y, with the Pasha of

the plain of Shekh
kcwise arrived ; and

present at the Iladj,
im composed of two
liding in the city now
their own lodgings,
ind at noon heard a

ity; all the pilgrims
hither and thither in

the Kaaba. Many
I to establish them-
lie pilgrims. Camel-
tiiem to the pilgrims
avan, vriih the Mah-
n through the city,
lanquin, placed upon
ther grandees, were
y two camels. The
rith feathers, tassels,
streets, and greeted
18 and praise. The

horses led in front
romen rode, particu-
followed soon after,
)lendid Turkish cos-
)th continued, with-
[)St immediately fol-
e greater proportion
Burckhardt likewise

iset. The pilgrims
J tents, in search of

did rot arrive until
rk plain to the ex-
rs of lamps marked
li, Soleyman Pasha,
Bw slept : " the de-

particularly distin-
Tie merry Meccans
fs, accompanied by
»ver the plain were

dark and cold. I
a large carpet tied

to the back of a Meccan's tent ; and having walked about for the greater
part of the night, I had just disposed myself to sleep, when two guns,
tired by the Syrian and Egyptian H.idj, announced the approaching
dawn of the day of pilgrimage, and summoned the faithful to prejtare
for their morning prayers."

The scene which, on the unfolding of the dawn, presented itself to
the eye of the traveler, was one of the most extraordinary upon earth.
" Every pilgrim issued from his tent to walk over the plains, and take a
view of the busy crowds assembled there. Long streets of tents, fitted
up as bazaars, furnished all kinds of provisions. The Syrian and Egyp-
tian cavalry were exercised by their chiefti early in the moniing, while
thousands of camels were seen feeding upon the dry shrubs of the plain
all round the camp." Burckhardt now ascended the summit of Arafat,
whence he could enjoy a distant view of the whole, the mountain being
an isolated moss of granite, reaching to the height of two hundred feet
above the level of the plain. From this point he counted about three
thousand tents, but the far greater number were, like himself, without
tents. Twenty or twenty-five thousand camels were dispersed, in sei>-
arate groups, over the plain ; and the number of pilgrims of both sexes,
and of all classes, could not amount to less than seventy thousand.
" The Syrian Hadj was encamped on the south and south-west side of
the mountain ; the Egyptian on the south-east. Around the house of
the Sherif, Yahya himself was encamped with hia Bedouin troops, and
in its neighborhood were all the Hcdjaz people. Mohammed AH, and
Soleyman, Pasha of Damascus, as well as several of their officers, had
very handgome tents ; but the most magnificent of all was that of the
wife of Mohammed Ali, the mother of Toossoon Pasha and Ibrahim
Pasha, who had lately arrived at Cairo for the Iladj, with a truly royal
equipage, five hundred camels being necessary to transport her baggage
from Jidda to Mecca. Her tent was in fact an encampment, consisting
of a dozen tents of different sizes, inhabited by her women ; the whole
inclosed by a wall of linen cloth, eight hundred paces in circuit, the
single entrance to which was guarded by eunuchs in splendid dresses.
Around this inclosure were pitched the tents of the men who formed her
numerous suite. The beautiful embroidery on the exterior of this linen
palace, with the various colors displayed in every part of it, constituted
an object which reminded me of some descriptions in the Arabian Tales
of the Thousand and One Nights."

Among the prodigious crowd were persons from every comer of the
Mohammedan world. Burckhardt counted forty different languages,
and did not doubt that there were many more. About three o'clock in
the afternoon, the pilgrims, quitting their tents, which were immediately
struck, and mounting their camels, pressed forward toward Mount Ara-
fet, and covered its sides from top to bottom. The preacher now took
his stand upon the platform on the mountain, and began to address the
multitude. The hearing of the sermon, which lasts till sunset, constitutes

224

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF BUUCKHARDT.

the holy ceremony of the Hadj, and M'ithout being present at it, and at
least appearing to hear, no pilgrim is entitled to the name of hadjt. " The
two i)ashas, with their whole cavalry drawn up in two squadrons behind
them, took their post in tho rear of tho deep line of camels of the hadjls,
to which those of the people of the Iledjaz were also joined : and here
they waited in solemn and respectful silence the conclusion of the sermon.
Further removed from the preacher was the Shcrif Yahya, with his small
body of soldiers, distinguished by several green standards carried before
him. Tho two Mahmals, or holy camels, which carry on their backs the
high'structuro that serves as the banner of their respective caravans,
made way with difficulty through the ranks of camels that encircled the
southeni and eastern sides of the hill, opposite to tho preacher, and took
their station, surrounded by their guards, directly under the platform in
front of him. The preacher, or khatyb, who is usually the Kadi of Mecca,
was mounted upon a finely-caparisoned camel, which had been led up the
steps ; it being traditionally said that Mohammed was always seated
when he addressed his followers, a practice in which he was imitated by
all the caliphs who came to tho Hadj, and who from hence addressed
their subjects in person. Tho Turkish gentleman of Constantinople,
however, unused to camel-riding, could not keep his seat so well
as the hardy Bedouin prophet ; and the camel becoming unruly, he was
soon obliged to alight from it. Ho read his sermon from a book in
Arabic, which he held in his hands. At intervals of every four or five
minutes he paused, and stretched forth his arms to implore blessuigs from
above ; while the assembled multitudes around and before him waved
the skirts of their ihrams over their heads, and rent the air with shouts
of LebeyJe^ Allah, hvma Lebeyk ! — " Here we are at thy bidding, O God !"
During the wavings of the ihrams, the sides of the mountain, thickly
crowded as it was by the people in their white garments, had the appear-
ance of a cataract of water ; while the green umbrellas, with which seve-
ral thousand hajjts, sitting on their camels below, were provided, bore
some resemblance to a verdant plain."

Burckhardt was present at all the remaining ceremonies of the Hadj,
and after observing whatever was worthy of examination both at Mecca
and Jidda, ho joined n small caravan of pilgrims who were going to visit
the tomb of the prophet, and set out for Medina on the 15th of January,
1815. During this journey he imprudently advanced before the caravan,
and was attacked by five Bedouins, from whom he was quickly delivered,
however, by the approach of his companions. They reached Medina on
the 28th of January. The ceremonies practiced in this city were much
less tedious than those at Mecca, and did not occupy hira more than a
quarter of an hour. Here, shortly aAer his arrival, he was attacked by
an intermittent fever, accompanied by extraordinary despondency. His
condition, indeed, was well calculated to insjjire gloomy thoughts ; for
he had no society, and but one book, which was, however, as he observes,

,:.,.„.;.lv.-.

— — • ^ > -^S^ -•**i«(»—

HARDT.

present at it, and at
namcof hadjt. "The
vo Hquadrons behind
camels of the hadjts,
Iso joined : and here
ilusion of the sernioii.
fahya, with his small
idards carried before
ry on their backs the
respective caravans,
els that encircled the
10 preacher, and took
inder the platform in
ly the Kadi of Mecca,
1 had been led up the
i was always seated
h he was imitated by
om hence addressed
n of Constantinople,
ep his seat so well
jming unruly, he was
rmon from a book in

of every four or five
mplore blessings from
id before him waved
at the air with shouts
thy bidding,© God!"
the mountain, thickly
lents, had the appear-
jllas, with which seve-

were provided, bore

remonies of the Hadj,
ination both at Mecca
lio were going to visit
I the 15th of January,
ed before the caravan,
n'as quickly delivered,
3y reached Medina on
n this city were much
!upy him more than a
1, he was attacked by
ry despondency. His
2;loomy thoughts ; for
wevcr, as he observes,

VISIT TO ItBDINA.

226

worth a whole shelf full of others. ThU was a pocket edition of Milton,
which he had borrowed from an English ship at Jidda.

Medina, it is well known, is chiefly indebted to the tomb of Moham-
med for its celebrity. This mausoleum, which stands on the south-east-
ern corner of the principal mosque, is protected from the too near ap-
proach of visitors by an iron railing, painted green, about two thirds the
height of the pillars of the colonnade which runs round the iiiterior of
the mosque. " The railing is of good workmanship, in imitation of fili-
gree, and is interwoven with open-worked inscriptions of yellow bronze,
supposed by the vulgar to be of gold, and of so close a texture, that no
view can bo obtained of the interior except by several small windows
about six inches square, which are placed in the four sides of the raUing,
abotit five feet above the ground." On the south side, where are the two
principal windows, before which the devout stand Avhen praying, the raU-
ing is plated with silver, and the common inscription— " There is no God
but God, the Evident Truth"— is wrought in silver letters round the
windows. The tomb itself, as weU as that of Abu Bekr and Omar, which
stand close to it, is concealed from the public gaze by a curtain of rich
silk brocade of various colors, interwoven with sUver flowers and ara-
besques, with inscriptions in characters of gold running across the midst
of it, Uke that of the covering of the Kaaba. Behind this curtain, which,
according to the historian of the city, was formerly changed every six
years, and is now renewed by the Porte whenever the old one is decayed,
or when a new eultan ascends the throne, none I it the chief eunuchs,
the attendants of the mosque, are permitted to enter. This holy sane
tuary once served, as the temple of Delphi did among the Greeks, as the
public treasury of the nation. Here the money, jewels, and other pre-
cious articles of the people of the Hedjaz were kept in chests, or sus-
pended on silken ropes. Among these was a copy of the Koran in Kufic
characters; a brilliant star set in diamonds and pearls, which was sus-
pended directly over the prophet's tomb; with all sorts of vessels set
with jewels, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, and other ornaments, sent as
presents from all parts of the empire. Most of these articles were car-
ried away by the Wahabees when they sacked and plundered the sacred

On the 2l8t of AprU, 1816, Burckhardt quitted Medma with a smaU
caravan bound for Yembo, on the sea-coast His mind was stiU exceed-
ingly depressed by the weak state of his body; and his gayety and am-
mal spirits, which had supported him through so many arduous scenes,
appear to have deserted him at last. Upon his arrival at Yembo, de-
jected and melancholy, to add to his despondency, he found the plague
ra<ring in the city. The air, night and day, was filled with the piero-
ing cries of those who had been bereaved of the objects of their affe^
tion ; yet, as no vessel was ready to sail for Egypt, he was constramed
to remain during eighteen days in the midst of the dying and the dead,
continuaUy exposed to infection through the heedlessness and the impru-

226

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF BURCKHAttDT.

dcnoe of liis slave. At length, how(!Vcr, ho procured a passage in an
open bout bound tor Cosseir, many of the passengers in wliieh wore sick
of a disease which appeared to be the plague, though only ;wo of them
died. After remaining twenty days on board, he was, at his own re-
quest, put on shore in the harbor of Sherin, at the entrance of the CJulf
of Akaba, where ho agreed with some Bedouins to transport him and his
slave to Tor and Suez. Learning on the way, however, that the plague
was at Suez, he remtuned at a village in the vicinity of the former place,
where the enjoyment of tranquillity and a bracing mountain air soon re-
stored his strength, and enabled him, though still enfeebled, to pursue
his journey to Cairo, where he arrived on the 24th of June, afler an ab-
sence of nearly two years and a half. As his health was not yet com-
pletely recovered, ho undertook a journey into Lower Egypt during the
following winter, which, as ho seems to have believed, restored his con-
stitution to its former tone.

His time was now entirely occupied in writing the journal of his
Nubian and Arabian travels, and in the necessary care of his health,
which, notwithstanding his sanguine expectation to the contrary, was
still in a somewhat equivocal state. In the spring of 1816, the plague
again broke out at Cairo, and Burckhardt, to avoid the infection, under-
took a journey to Mount Sinai, intending to remun among the Bedouins
until the pestilence should bo over. During this excursion ho traced
the course of the eastern branch of the Red Sea to within sight of
Akaba, which he was prevented by circumstances from visiting. On
his return to Cairo, he united with Mr. Salt in furnishing Belzoni with
money for transporting the head of Memnon from Goorneh to Alex-
andria. The scheme, it would seem, originated with Burckhardt and
Salt, to whom, therefore, the British Museum is chiefly indebted for the
possession of that remarkable specimen of ancient art.

On the 4th of October, 1817, Burckhardt, who had so long waited
in v^n for an opportunity of penetrating with a Moggrebin caravan to
Timbuctoo, by way of Fezzan, was attacked with violent dysentery.
The best medical advice which an eminent English physician (Doctor
Richardson), then at Cairo, could afford was found unavailing. The
disease prevailed, and on the 15th of the same month the able, adven-
turous, and lamented traveler breathed his last at the early age of thirty-
three years. As he had lived while in the East as a Mussulman, the
Turks, he foresaw, would claim his body, " and perhaps," said he to Mr.
Salt, who was present at his death-bed, " you had better let them." —
" The fmieral, as he desired," says this gentleman, " was Mohammedan,
conducted with all proper regard to the respectable rank which he had
held in the eyes of the natives." This was honorable to his Cairo
friends ; and to those who are interested in the history of his manly
career it is gratifying to discover how highly he was valued. His re-
mjuns, unmariced by any memorial, lie somewhere in the Moslem bury-
ing-ground on the eastern side of Cairo, where another traveler of equal

HARDT.

urcd n |)aflHagc in un
m ill wiiich wore sick
ig!i only t,\vo of them
! wait, at his own re-
entrance of the CJulf
transport him and hia
rcvcr, that the plague
y of the former place,
mountain air soon ru-
[ enfeebled, to pursue
I of June, afler an ab-
ilth was not yet conv-
ver Egypt during the
ved, restored his con-

ig the journal of his
ry care of his health,
to the contrary, was
; of 1816, the plague
1 the infection, under-
a among the Bedouins
I excursion he traced
ea to within sight of
}S from visiting. On
mishing Belzoni with
am Goornch to Alex-
with Burckhardt and
liicfly indebted for the
art.

had so long waited
IVIoggrebin caravan to
th violent dysentery,
[lish physician (Doctor
und unavailing. The
lonth the able, adven-
the early age of thirty-
t as a Mussulman, the
srhaps," said he to Mr.
i better let them." —
, "was Mohammedan,
ble rank which he had
onorable to his Cairo

1 history of his manly
e was valued. His re-
3 in the Moslem bury-
other traveler of equal

nia ORAVR.

227

courage, onthuMJasm, and energy — Jolm Lodyanl — was buricil tnoio
than twenty years before liim. Since Hurckhardt'H death, otlu'i s have
wiilkod in his steps an<l many of the pliioes which lie visited with so
much difficulty and peril, are now accessible to all triivekrs, but no one
h'M surpassed him in prudence and intrepiility, no one has lived a lile of
such romantic interest, or productive of more rich results.

■■■^ '.mi'^&i

BELZ ON rS

EXPLORATIONS IN EGYPT

THTfl enterprising traveler and explorer, descended from a respectable
T, an flaTwriom at Padua, wWtier his relations had many years
Roman family, ^as/^*™ *' ^Psi^ned bv his parents for some monastic

T"h^;raT:try^ a"^^^^^^^^ -^-^ ^"^^'^ ''

order,hewa8at avej^ ea y g ^^^^^^^ ^nd spent the greater

'^TnySrvoi Here the sciences would appear to have obtained a
part of his youtb. ne ^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^,

'"f f CtaXr^ She o-d mu'ch of the reputation which he
ticularly Jy^'*";^'''.^^^^^ The invasion of Italy, and the capture

t Rime bX Fr n b^^ *^« P-«^^"^ ^"* insignificant plan of

?rw!hL had traced out for himself. Instead of a monk he be-
r^Leler Demrting from Rome in the year 1800, he for some
came a *™^«^«5- ;^,^7v^„ Continent, deriving bis subsistence, as he him-

:rorr?rfr:^^^^^^^

short time, no less f^'^'^^^JjtmXSXere he not long afterward

In the year 1803 ho armed m Eng»*«*^^«Yv performing in public

carried. In that ^^^^^ ^^ ^^J^tie^mf eSiE^^ still, with a

feats of prodigious strengh^ and by ^^^^^ ^^^^^.^„^ ^„^,.,tencc

xnanly independence Pff "^^ th« ga^J^"g ^^^^ ^ of his fam-

by these means to the idea of draming the sien ^^^^^^ ^^

Uy, or of resortmg to those ^^V^^l ^fordgners in England.
gSn which too frequently empoy the tden^ of f««^^ J^ ^^^

Lving remained nine y^^JL^^^ .^^t^i^^^^^ ^^
desire of visiting ^^o «o«*^ ^ f^'^'S^^a Malta It seems to have
him, traveled through Portugal, Sp^, and MaUa. 1 ^^^^ ^^ ^^^
been during this part of h« travels that ho learnca ^^^^^

sidered unexceptionable -f ^f ' f^^",: ^ht^^^^^^^^^^ machine would
be turned to good account m Egypt, w^.re an j

280

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF BBLZONI.

be of the greatest utility in irrigating the fields, which need water only
to make them produce at any season of the year. , - ,, ^

He accordingly took his passage on board of a ship bound for Egypt,
and arrived in the harbor of Alexandria on the 8th of June, 1815 The
plague, he learned, was then prevailing in the city, but gradually de-
creLng in malignity. St. John's day, the 24th of June, was likewise
at hand, on which it usually ceases entirely, through the interference,
as the vulgar believe, of the saint, but in reaUty fi-om the intense heat
of the sun, which has by that time exhaled the miasmata which are the
immediate cause of the plague. Belzoni, who was accompanied by his
wife and a young Irish lad, named Curtain, landed, notwithstanding the
disease ; and having remained secluded in the caravanserai, untU after
the 24th, set off for Cairo. On reaching that city, where he meant to
make an offer of his services to the pasha, to whose principal interpreter
he brought letters of recommendation, he obtained lodgings m an old
house of vast size and ruinous condition. Though antiquities, as he ob-
serves, were not at that time his object, he could not refrain from visit-
ine the Pyramids. He accordingly accompanied an English gentleman
to the spot, where they passed the night, and long before dawn had
ascended the summit of the highest pile, to behold the sun nse over the

land of Egypt. , « , ^ a^

"The scene here,'' says he, "is majestic and grand, fkr beyond de-
scription : a mist over the plains of Egypt formed a vail, which ascended
and vanished gradually as the sun rose, and unvaUed to the view that
beautiful land, once the site of Memphis. The distant view of the
smaller pyramids on the south marked the extension of that vast capital,
while the solemn endless spectacle of the desert on the west msmred us
with reverence for the all-powerful Creator. The fertile lands on the
north, with the serpentine course of the Nile, descending toward the sea ;
the rich appearance of Cairo and its minarets, at the foot of the Mokat-
tam mountain, on the east ; the beautiful pl^ which extends froni the
Pyramids to that city ; the NUe, which flows magnificently through the
center of the Sacred Valley; and the thick groves of palm-trees under
our eyes, altogether formed a scene of which a very imperfect idea can
be given by the most elaborate description."

A few days afler his return to Cairo he was to have been presented
to the pasha, but on the way to the citadel was attacked and wounded
by a Turkish soldier in such a maimer that he was compeUed to defer
his presentation for thirty days. Mohammed Ali had not at that time
property established his power ; for, when informed of the injury which
had been inflicted on his guest, he only observed that such accidents
were not to be prevented in cities filled with troops. This point was
very soon made still clearer. In a few days the soldiers burst out mto
open rebelUon, pillaged the inhabitants, committed every descnption ot
atrocity, and pursued his highness himself into his castle, where they
for some time held him besieged. When this storm had blown over,

■

► NI.

eh need water only

bound for Egypt,

June, 1815. The
I, but gradually de-
June, was likewise

the interference,
m the intense heat
Imata which are the
iccompanied by his
lOtwithstanding the
anserai, until after
where he meant to
)rincipal interpreter

lodgings in an old
ntiquities, as he ob-
t refrain from visit-
English gentleman
', before dawn had
he Bun rise over the

and, &r beyond dc-
vail, which ascended
ed to the view that
distant view of the
1 of that vast capital,
the west inspired us
fertile lands on the
ding toward the sea ;
} foot of the Mokat-
sh extends fi-om the
ificently through the
of palm-trees under
' imperfect idea can

lave been presented
Acked and wounded
8 compelled to defer
ad not at that time

of the injury which
that such accidents
ps. This point was
iiers burst out into
svery description of

castle, where they
m had blown over,

REUOYAL OF THE HEAD OF MB1£N0N.

231

Belzoni, whose hydraulic project was highly approved of by the pasha,
commenced the construction of his machine in the gardens of the latter,
at Shoobra, three miles from Cairo. As Mohammed Ali was not bigot-
edly attached to oriental fashions, he freely permitted Belzoni to be
witness of his amusements, which he was sometimes even called upon
to multiply. During his stay at Shoobra, business frequently required
his presence at Cairo, where, on one occasion, he narrowly escaped
being shot by a Turkish soldier. The ruffian having struck him in the
street, he returned the blow ; upon which the Turk drew his pistol,
fired at him, singed his hair, and killed one of his own comrades who
happened to be standing behind the traveler. The man was next day
apprehended by the pasha, and never more heard of. When the hy-
draulic machine was completed, its power was made trial of in the pres-
ence of Mohammed Ali, who, perceiving that as an innovation it was
regarded with extraordinary dislike by the Turkish and Arabic cultiva-
tors, abandoned the project altogether, without even remunerating the
traveler for the loss of time and money which he had incurred.

Notwithstanding these circumstances, Belzoni found, upon calcula-
tion, that his finances would still enable him to ascend the Nile as
far as Assouan ; and was about to proceed up the country when Burck-
hardt and Mr. Salt, who had previously discussed the point together,
determined upon the removal of the colossal head of young Mcmnon to
England, for the purpose of being presented to the British Museum ;
and requested Belzoni, as one of the fittest persons that could be fotmd,
to undertake the task. The expenses Burckhardt and Mr. Salt were to
defray between them. A report was, it seems, circulated even during
the lifetime of Belzoni, and previous to the publication of his travels,
that in this affiur he was merely the paid agent of Mr. Salt (for, as a
professed Mohammedan, Burckhardt did not choose to appear). This,
however, was clearly not the case. In a letter addressed to the African
Association, dated Cairo, February 20th, 1817, Burckhardt says, "You
will be pleased to hear that the colossal head from Thebes has at last,
ufler many difficulties, safely arrived at Alexandria. Mr. Belzoni, who
offered himself to undertake this commission, has executed it with great
spirit, intelligence, and perseverance. The head is waiting now at
Alexandria for a proper conveyance to Malta. Mr. Salt and mvsolf
have borne the expenses jointly ; and the trouble of the undertaking
has devolved upon Mr. Belzoni, whose name I wish to be mentioned, if
ever ours shall, on this occasion, because ho was actuated by public
spirit fully as much as ourselves."

Few things are more interesting in themselves, or less captivating in
description, than a search after antiquities. Belzoni, after visiting Her-
montis and Dendera, arrived at Thebes, which, from the time of Strabo
to the present moment, has excited the wonder and admiration of every
traveler who has beheld it. " It is absolutely impossible," says Belzoni,
" to imagine the scene displayed, without seeing it. The most sublime

232

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF BBLZONI.

ideas that can be formed from the most magnificent specimens of our
present architecture would give a very incorrect picture of these ruins ;
for such is the dilSerence, not only in magnitude, but in form, propor-
tion, and construction, that even the pencU can convey but a faint idea
of the whole. It appeared to me like entering a city of giants, who,
after a long conflict, were all destroyed, leaving the ruins of their va-
rious temples as the only proof of their existence."

After a brief examination of these mighty ruins, he crossed to the
western bank of the Nile, where, amid the vast remains of the Mcm-
Doniuin, was the colossal head which he was to remove. He found it,
he says, near the remains of its body and chair, with its face upward,
and apparently smiling on him at the thought of being taken to En-
gland. The implements which he had brought from Cairo were suffi-
ciently simple : fourteen poles, eight of which were employed in making
a sort of car to lay the bust on, four ropes of palm-leaves, and four rol-
lers, without tackle of any sort. Their boat lying too far to be used
as a lodging every night, they established themselves in the Memnon-
ium, where, as the traveler remarks, they were handsomely lodged in a
small hut formed of stones. Mrs. Belzoni seems, in fact, to have been
as enterprising and romantic as her husband, and made no difficulty
about the rudeness of their accommodation. It is not necessary to give
a detailed account of his laborious exertions, or those of the Arabs in
conveying the head to the Nile. It will be sufficient to state, that after
incredible toil and perseverance, it was at length brought to the edge
of the stream on the 12th of August, 1816.

This object being effected, he made an excursion to the sepulchral ex-
cavations in the mountain of Goomeh, celebrated for the quantity of
mummies which they contain. Into this A'ast labyrinth he entered with
two Arabs and his interpreter. They were in search of a sarcophagus
which was said to have been discovered by Drovetti, the French Con-
sul at Alexandria ; but, in roaming about amid the dreary passages, lost
their way, which, without extraordinary good fortune, might have been
the first step to losing their lives. In laboring to find a passage out,
they came to a small aperture, through which the interpreter and one of
the Arabs passed easily, but Belzoni, who was a very large man, found
it too small. " One of the Arabs, however, succeeded, as did my inter-
preter ; and it was then agreed," says he, " that I and the other Arab
should wait till their return. They proceeded evidently to a great dis-
tance, for the Ught disappeared, and only a murmuring sound from their
voices could be distinguished as they went on. After a few moments I
heard a loud noise, and the interpreter distinctly crying, ' O mon Dieu !
O mon Dieu ! je suis perdu !' after which n profound silence ensued. I
asked my Arab whether he had ever been in that place. He replied,
* Never.' I could not conceive what could have happened, and thought
the best plan was to return to procure help from the other Arabs. Ac-
cordingly, I told my man to show mo the way out again ; but, staring

MWlMHi

•MM**

NI.

specimens of oar
uro of these ruins ;
t in form, propor-
ruy but a faint idea
sity of giants, who,

ruins of their vo-

he crossed to the
nains of the Mcra-
ove. He found it,
h its face upward,
)ping taken to En-
m Cairo were suffi-
imployed in making
eaves, and four rol-
too far to be used
>3 in the Memnon-
Isomely lodged in a
n fact, to have been

made no difficulty
ot necessary to give
)se of the Arabs in
it to state, that after
brought to the edge

to the sepulchral ex-
for the quantity of
[nth he entered with
ch of a sarcophagus
tti, the French Con-
dreary passages, lost
inc, might have been
find a passage out,
iterpreter and one of
jry large man, found
ded, as did my inter-
and the other Arab
clently to a great dis-
ing soimd from their
Her a few momenta I
•ying, ' O mon Dieu !
id silence ensued. I
t place. He replied,
ippened, and thought
ie other Arabs. Ao-
; again ; but, staring

JOURNEY INTO NUBIA.

283

at me like an idiot, ho said he did not know the road. I called re-
peatedly to the interpreter, but received no answer. I watched a long
time, but no one returned, and my situation was no very pleasant
one."

At length, however, by dint of laborious perseverance, they issued
into the upper air ; and as the sarcophagus, which they had discovered,
could not at that moment be removed, Belzoni conceived the design of
making a small excursion into Nubia. Accordingly, he proceeded up
the river to Assouan, where, after much altercation, he procured a fresh
boat to carry him to the second cataract. He admired, in passing, the
beautiful island of PhilsB, rich in the ruins of antiquity. On the next day
several natives, armed with spears and shields of crocodile skins, came in
boats to attack them on the river ; but observing them, Mrs. Belzoni and
all, to be armed with pistols, very prudently retired. At Derr, the capi-
tal of Lower Nubia, he purchased, with a small looking-glass, permission
to continue his voyage. Previous to this, many of the people of the
country had never enjoyed the gratification of contemplating the reflec-
tion of their own countenances. On arriving at Abou-Simbel, he saw,
wit ' . amazement, the great rock-temple noticed by Burckhardt. He im-
mediately conceived the design of clearing away the sand which ob-
structed the entrance into the temple, and made the proposal to the vil-
lagers, promising, in order to excite them to the task, a present in
money ; but soon found that he had at length arrived in a region where
money had ceased to be omnipotent. The people stared at his piasters
as they would have stared at a letter in an unknown language, and in-
quired who would give them any thing for such small bits of metal as
those? However, he by degrees succeeded in convincing them that
money possessed over civilized men, and all who came within their in-
fluence, a mysterious power which they could not resist. This seemed
at first to produce a good effect ; but the love of money once excited,
they knew not where to stop ; and their avarice, which he had reckoned
his best ally, soon exhausted his means, so that before he had half-com-
pleted his undertaking he was compelled to desist, and continue his voy-
age up the Nile to the second cataract.

Having gratified his curiosity Avith a glance at these celebrated spots,
Belzoni returned to Asso^ian, and from thence proceeded to Thebes,
where he immediately put in train the measures necessary for conveying
down the river the Memnon's head, and various other antiquities. The
obstacles which were thrown in his way by the obstinacy of the natives,
and the intrigues of Drovetti, and other collectors of antiquities, were
numerous, and highly disgraceful to their originators. Nevertheless, on
the 1 7th of November, 1 816, he succeeded in placing the head on board of
a boat, in which he set sail on the 21st for Cairo, where ho arrived on
the 15th of December, after a voyage of twenty-four days.

From Cairo, Belzoni proceeded with the bust down the Nile to Ro-
setta and Alexandria ; fi-om whence, after having placed his charge in

u
1

■Wa^pii

MiiMMIifl

234 LIFE AND TRAVELS OF BELZONI.

the pasha's warehouacR, he quickly returned, for the purpose of proceed-
tl on a second voyage up the Nile. It was on this occasion that he had
Z eood Zuno to become known to Mr. Briggs, wxth whom he re-
turnfd to Cairo. Captain Caviglia had at this period commenced his re-
lelrche in the interior of the first pyramid of Ghizeh, but was about to
SonUnue them for lack of means, when Mr. Briggs mimificontly en.

ga'Tto furnish funds for the P-P«-' '" T^^«^ ';r T'JJZi should
Mr Salt It was proposed by this latter gentleman that Belzoni should
To nctptain Caviglia b his researches ; but the traveler, with comm«nda-
ble amW L, prefLed some undertaking in which a^l the credit should
rlund to himself; and, having lefUiis wife at the house o^ a fr.nd at
Cairo, he once more ascended the Nile, accompanied by Mr. Beechey,
to whom he had been introduced at Alexandria.

At Eraramoun, Belzoni obtained intelligence that two agen s of B..
DroTetti were hurrying on toward Thebes, in the hope of forestalling him
SthepurlaseofaLquitiesjupon^^^^^
i Mr Beechey to come up slowly with the boat, hurnedoff by night. On

re^Mng the ruins, after an incredibly fatiguing Jouniey of five days he
' tod that, although the agents were not arrived, Mr. Salt's neglect m
not pa^ng the way with a handsome present, had so completely irntated
Z bey that he had appropriated to M. Drovetti the very ground upon
which Belzoni had commenced his excavations during his first journey.
J:!;o the detl of these quarrels, which continued to rage durmg Bel-
zoni's residence in Egypt, it is not necessary to ent^er

The most interestmg transaction, perhaps, m which Belzoni ^^ as any-
where crgaged, was hifvisit to the Necropolis of Thebes, in the mount-
Tin of ofomeh. This is a tract of about two miles m length, at the
foot of the Libyan ridge. Every part of those rocks is scooped out into
a sepulcher, which, however close it may be to other sepulchral cham-
Lrsrhasrarelyan^interiorcommunicationwiththem. I* - i-p^^^^^^^^
as Belzoni observes, to convey by description an adequate idea of these
^»Ue reous abodes and their inhabitants. No other fPU^chers - the
worid resemble them. There are no excavations or mmes that can be
rmpa red with those astonishing places, which when once Been, foreve
'fter haunt the imagination, like a glimpse of the regions beyond the
Ave Few traveler see more of these catacombs than the exteno
chamb^^rs, from which the dead have been removed. In the mtemr
ep,th ™ the air is suffocating, and frequently causes &-tmg Jhe
dust of decayed mummies, which is so fine that it quickly penetrates in
v^t quanUties to the lungs, and causes a difficulty of respiration ; the
Ittng effluvia of decompo^d bodies ; the dark, dismal, lonesome 7ec
of thf Place —every thing tends to discourage the intruder. Belzoni
I wa^^nolho;^er,tobeleterred. In describing the difficulties which
he here encomitered, he observes. " In some places there is not mc^e
than the vacancy of a foot left, which you must contrive to Pa«« ^^rough
! in a creeping pasture, Uke a snail, on pointed and keen stones that cut

__j

MNP

NI.

iirpoBC of proceed- \
;ca8ion that he had
with whom he re- |
commenced his re-
, but was about to
rg mmiificontly en-
c was seconded by
lat Belzoni should
r, with commenda-
1 the credit should
louse of a friend at
id by Mr. Beechey,

t two agents of Y.
e of forestalling hini
o asses, and, leaving
doff by night. On
Qcy of five days, he
[r. Salt's neglect, in
completely irritated
e very gi'ound upon
ig his first journey,
to rage during Bel-
r.

ich Belzoni was any-
hcbes, in the mount-
les in length, at the
:s is scooped out into
er sepulchral cham-
im. It is impossible,
equate idea of these
her sepulchers in the
>r mines that can be
sn once seen, forever
regions beyond the
bs than the exterior
^ed. In the interior
sauses fainting. The
juickly penetrates in
y of respiration ; the
imal, lonesome aspect
10 intruder. Belzoni
the difficulties which
88 there is not more
itrive to pass through
keen stones that cut

RESBARCHES IN THE TOMBS.

285

like glass. After getting through these passages, some of them two or
three hundred yards long, you generally find a more commodious place,
perhaps high enough to sit. But what a place of rest 1 surroimded by
bodies, by heaps of mummies, in all directions, which, previous to my
being accustomed to the sight, impressed mo with horror. The black-
ness of the wall ; the faint light given by the candles or torches for want
of air ; the different objects that were around me seeming to converse
with each other ; and the Arabs with the candles or torches in their
hands, naked and covered with dust, themselves resembling living mum-
mies — absolutely formed a scene that can not be described. In such a
situation I found myself several times, and often returned exhausted
and fainting, till at last I became inured to it, and indifferent to what I
suffered except from the dust, which never failed to choke my throat
and nose ; and though fortunately I am destitute of the sense of smell-
ing, I could taste that the mummies wero rather unpleasant to swallow.
After the exertion of entering into such a place, through a passage of
fifty, a hundred, three hundred, or perhaps six hundred yards, nearly
overcome, I sought a resting-place, found one, and contrived to sit ; but
when my weight bore on the body of an Egyptian, it crushed it like a
bandbox. I naturally had recourse to ray hands to sustain my weight,
but they found no better support ; so tliat I sank altogether among the
broken mummies, with a crash of bones, rags, and wooden cases, which
raised such a dust as kept me motionless for a quarter of an hour, wait-
ing till it subsided again. I could not move from the place, however,
without increasing it, and every step I took crushed a mummy in some
part or other. Once I was conducted from such a place to another re-
sembling it, through a passage of about twenty feet in length, and no
wider than that the body could be forced through. It was choked with
mummies, and I could not pass without putting my face in contact with
that of some decayed Egyptian ; but as the passage inclined downward,
my own weight helped me on. However, I could not help being cov-
ered with bones, legs, arms and heads, rolling from above. Thus I pro-
ceeded from one cave to another, all full of mummies, piled up in various
ways, some standing, some lying, and some on their heads. The pur-
pose of my researches was to rob the Egyptians of their papyri, of which
I found a few hidden in their breasts, under their arms, and in the space
above the knees, or on the legs, and covered by the numerous folds of
cloth that envelop the mummy,"

Belzoni continued indefatigably making new researches both at
Goomeh and Eamak, but was at length put to flight by the machina-
tions of the French, who had succeeded in gaining over to their party
the bey of the province. He then resolved once more to ascend the
Nile to Abou-Simbel, and was fortunate enough to meet with two En-
glish travelers, Captuns Irby and Mangles, who were desirous of per-
forming the same voyage. They hired a boat between them at Philse,
and setting out together in high spirits, visited the second cataract, and

286

LIFB AND TRAVELS OP BELZONI.

then rcturaod to Abou-Simbel. Hero the wrong-headcdness and quar-
relsome disposition of the Nubians considerably obstructed their labors
in clearing away the entrance to the temple. But at length, having dis-
missed the native laborers, and undertaken the task themselves, they
succeeded, and enjoyed the satisfaction of beholding one of the most
perfect and beautiful rook-temples in the world.*

* " About two hours after midnight, I was awakened fVom a deep sleep bj the shock
of the boat striking the shore. I opened my eyes and saw, as I lay, without moving my
tieod, a huge wall of rock before me, against which six enormous statues leaned as they
looked {torn deep niches cut in its fh>nt Their solemn faces were touched by the moon,
wliich shone full on the cliff, and only their feet were wrapped in shadow. The lines of
deep-cut hieroglyphics over the portaj of this rocky temple were also filled with shadow
and painted legibly on the gray, moonlit rock. Below them yawned the door — a square
of complete darkness. A little to the loft, over a long drill of sand that sloped ttom the
summit of the cliff nearly to the water's edge, peered the miterod head of a statue of still
more colossal proportions. I gazed on this broad, dim, and wonderful picture for a mo-
ment, so awed by its majesty that I did not ask myself where or what it was. This is
some grand Egyptian dream, was my first thought, and 1 closed my eyes for a few sec-
onds, to see whether it would vanish. But it stood fast and silent as ever, and I knew it
to be Abou-SimbeL My servants all slept, and the rais and boys noiselessly moored the
boat to the shore, and then lay down and slept also. Still I lay, and the great statues
looked solemly down upon me, and the moon painted their kingly nomens and banners
with yet darker distinctness on the gray rock. The river made no sound below, the long
grass stirred not a blade at the foot of the crags, and the slopes of sand were white and
dumb as snow. I lay in too deep a repose for thought, and was not then conscious how
grateful was such a silence in Nature, while the moon held up that picture before me. It
might have been two minutes or twenty, before the current slowly swung the stern of
the boat around, and the picture as slowly shifted from my view, leaving instead the
Southern Cross in its shrine of stars.

" The front of the great temple is not parallel to that of the other, nor does it face the
river, which here flows in a north-east course. The line of the cliff is broken between the
two, so that the figures of the great Remeses, seated on each side of the door, look to the
east, the direction of the line of the fkce being nearly north. Through the gap in front,
the sands have poured down from the Desert behind, almost wholly filling up the space
between the two cliflk; and though since the temple was first opened, by Belzoni, in
1817, it has been cleared nearly to the base more than once, the rapid accumulation of
sand has again almost closed the entrance. The southern colossus is only buried about
halfway to the knee, but of the two northern ones there is little else to be seen except
the heads. Obscured as is the effect of this grand front, it is still without parallel in the
world. I had not thought it possible that in statues of such enormous magnitude there
could be such singular beauty of expression. The face of Remeses, the same in each, is
iindnubtedly a portrait, as it resembles the faces of the statues in the interior, and those
of the King in other places. Besides, there is an individuality in some of the features
which is too marked to represent any general type of the Egyptian head. The fiillness
of the drooping eyelid, which yet does not cover the large, oblong Egyptian eye ; the
nose, at first slightly inclining to the aquiline, but curving to the round, broad nostrils;
the gecerous breadth of the calm lips, and the placid, serene expression of the face, are
worthy of the conqueror of Africa and the builder of Kamak and Medeenet Abou.

"The great doorway of the temple is so choked up with sand that I was obliged to
creep in on my knees. The sun by this time had risen exactly to the only point where it
can illumine the interior, and the rays, taking a more yellow hue from the rock and sand
CD which they foil, shone down the long drift between the double row of colossal statue^

lifM

•MM-

■^

)NI.

adedness and quar-
ructed their labors
t length, having dis-
sk themselves, they
ig one of the most

deep sleep by the shock
lay, without moving my
us statues leaned as they
)re touched by the moon,
in shadow. The lines of
also filled with shadow
wued the door — a square
and that sloped flrom the
)d head of a statue of still
mderful picture for a mo-
or what it wa& This is
led my eyes for a few sec-
ant as ever, and I knew it
}ys noiselessly moored the
ay, and the great statues
ingly nomens and banners
I no sound below, the long
!S of sand were white and
Eis not then conscious how
that picture before me. It
slowly swung the stem of
view, leaving instead the

) other, nor does it face the
cliff is broken between the
ide of the door, look to the
Through the gap in front,
wholly filling up the space
irst opened, by Belzoni, in
the rapid accumulation of
tlossus is only buried about
ittle else to be seen except
still without parallel in the
enormous magnitude there
meses, the same in each, is
3 in the interior, and those
ity in some of the features
rptian head. The flillneas
oblong Egyptian eye; the
> the round, broad nostrils;
I expression of the face, are
nd Uedeenet Abou.
sand that I was obliged to
y to the only point where it
lue from the rock and sand
ible row of colossal statuei^

THE TEMPLE OF ABC T-SIUBAL.

287

Having completed this laborious operation, Belzoni returned to his
old station at Thebes, where he continued his researches in the valley
of the Tombs of the Kings. Here, among other remarkable antiquities,
he discovered one relic of the ancient world, which certainly appears to
rank among the most beautiful that have ever been exhumed. " It is,"
says he, " a sarcophagus of the finest oriental alabaster, nine feet five
inches long, and three feet seven inches wide. Its thickness is only two
inches, and it is transparent when a light is placed inside it. It is mi-
nutely sculptured within and without with several hundred figures
which do not exceed two inches in height, and represent, as I suppose,
the whole of the funeral procession and ceremonies relating to the de-
ceased, united with several emblems, etc. I can not give an adequate

and lighted up the entrance to the second hall of the temple. I sat down in the sand,
awed and half fKghtened by the singular appearance of the place. The sunshine, falling
obliquely on the sands, struck a dim reflection against the sculptured roof, and even
lighted up the furthest recesses of the grand hall sufficiently to show its imposing dimen-
sions. Eight square pillars — four on either side r ' the central aisle — seem to uphold the
roof, and on their inner sides, facing each other, .re eight statutes of the king. The fea-
tures of all are preserved, and have something if the grace and serenity, though not the
majesty of the great statues outsida They look into each other's eyes, with an eternal
question on their fixed countenances, but none can give answer. There was something
so stem and strange in these eight faces, that I felt a shudder of fear creep over me. Tho
strong arms are all crossed on their breasts, and the hand hold various sacred and regal
symbols, conspicuous among which is something resembling a flail, which one sees often
in Egyptian sculpture. I thought of a marvelous story I once read, in which a genie,
armed with a brazen flail, stands at the entrance of an enchanted castle, crushing with the
stroke of his terrible weapon all who come to seek the treasure within. For a moment
the childish faith in the supernatural was as strong as ever, and I looked at the gloomy
entrance beyond, wishing to enter, but fbaring the stony flails of the terrible Remesi on
either hand. Tho faces were once partially colored, and the black eyeball, still remaining
on the blank eye of stone, gives them an expression of stupor, of death-in-life, which ac-
counted to me for the nervous shock I experienced on entering.

" There is nothing in Egypt which can be likened to the great temple of Abou-SimbeL
Kamak is grander, but its grandeur is human. This belongs rather to the superhuman
fknciea of the East — the halls of the Afritcs— or to tho realm of the dethroned Titans, of
early Greek mythology. This impression is not diminished, on passing the second hall
and corridor, and entering the adytum, or sacred chamber of the temple. There the gran-
ite altar yet stands in the center, before the undestroyed figures of the gods, who, seated
side by side, calmly await the oflerings of their worshipers. The peculiar individuality
of each deity is strikingly shown in these large statues, and their attitude is much less
constrained than in the sitting statues in tho tombs of Thebes. These look as if they eouU
rise, if they would. The walls are covered with sculptures of them and of the contemplar
deities, in the grand, bold style of the age of Remeses. Some visitors had lefl a supply
of dry palm branches near the entrance, and of these I made torches, which blazed and
crackled fiercely, flaring with a rich red light on the sculptured and painted walls. Thoro
was sufBcient to enable me to examine all the smaller chambers, of which there are eight
or nine, cut laterally into the rock, without any attempt at symmetry of form, or regularity
of arrangement Several of them have seats mnning around three sides, exactly like tho
divans in modem Egyptian houses. They were probably designed for the apartments of
priests or servants connected with the temple."— Bay aed Tatlob's "Journey to Central
J/rica." ,- I T ,

IWS^OM

288

LIFE AND TRAVELS OF BELZOKI.

idea of thU beautiful and invaluable ])icce of anti({uity, and can only say,
that nothing liaa been brought into Europe from Egypt tiiat can bo com-
pared to it. The cover was not there ; it had been taken out and
broken into several pieces."

Of the tomb in which this extraordinary monument was fcund a
model was many years afterward exhibited in London, and so exceed-
ingly well executed was the representation, that had it not been for the
crowds of visitors, one might easily have imagined one's self in the sc]>-
ulchcr^ of the Egyptian kings. The original tomb at Thebes, which
was first opened by Belzoni, bears his name to this day. It had been
entered and plundered, probably during the Roman occupation, but
again closed in so careful a manner, that it had remained undiscovered
for nearly two thousand years. Bclzoni wanted but one thing to ren-
der him one of the greatest antiquarian collectors in the world : this one
thing was money. From tlio lack of this, many of his most arduous
and well-planned enterprises camo to nothing.

From Thebes, with which ho was now as familiar as he was with
London, he some time after this proceeded to Cairo. He had by this
time acquired quite a passion for excavations, tomb-opening, and all those
other pursuits by which travelers aim at diving into the mysteries of
Egyptian manners and arts ; and reflecting upon the success of Captain
Caviglia in descending into the well of the Great Pyramid, the project
of attempting the opening of the second occurred to him. There is not
space to describe the difficulties which ho encountered and overcame in
the execution of this design. His labors were incessant ; his expenses
considerable ; but, at length, after success had frequently appeared hope-
less, the entrance to the interior chambers was found. " After thirty
days' exertion," says he, '^ I had the pleasure of finding myself in the
way to the central chamber of one of the two great pyramids of Egypt,
which have long been the admiration of beholders !"

This object having been happily effected, Belzoni again set out for
Thebes. There he was made acquainted with the history of a pretended
discovery, which became a motive for a journey to the coast of the Red
Sea. The history of this expedition is given in a very few words by a
writer in the Quarterly Review. "A French mineralogist, of the name
of Cailliaud, had accompanied some Arab soldiers sent by the pasha of
Egypt in search of emeralds among the mountains between the Nile and
the Red Sea. On their return, Calliaud gave out that in this expedition
he had discovered the ancient city of the Ptolemies, the celebrated Ber-
nice, the great emporium of Europe and the Indies, of which he gave a
magnificent description. Mr. Belzoni, doubtful of the accuracy of the
story, set out from Edfoo, with one of the former party, to visit the
supposed Bemice ; where, instead of the ruins of eight hundred houses
and three temples, as stated by M. Calliaud, he could find no more than
eighty seven scattered houses, or rather cells ; the greater number of
which did not exceed ten feet square, built with unhewn stones, and

3NI.

JOURNEY TO THE OASIS.

289

y, iiiid can only say,
pt tliat can bo com-
ccn taken out and

unent was fcund a
Ion, and so excccd-

it not been for the
ne'8 self in the sej)-
b at Thebes, which

day. It had been

lan occupation, but

ained undiscovered

t one thing to rcn-

the world : this one

of his most arduous

liliar as he was with
ro. He had by this
>pening, and all those
ito the mysteries of
le success of Captain
Pyramid, the project
lo him. There is not
red and overcame in
cessant ; hia expenses
lently appeared hope-
jund. "After thirty
Ending myself in the
it pyramids of Egypt,
!"

3ni again set out for
listory of a pretended
> the coast of the Red
i very few words by a
eralogist, of the name
) sent by the pasha of
between the Nile and
:hat in this expedition
!S, the celebrated Ber-
;s, of which he gave a
r the accuracy of the
ler party, to visit the
eight hundred houses
uld find no more than
le greater number of
1 unhewn stones, and

without cement ; and the only appearance of a temple was a niche in a
rock, without inscription or sculpture of any kind ; there was no land
for cultivation, nor any water within twenty-four miles ; no communica-
tion with the sea but by a rough road over the mountains, of twenty-
four miles; and the shore was so covered with projecting rocks for
twenty or thirty miles on each side, that there was no security even for
the smallest boats, much less for ships trading to India. These, there-
fore, he was quite ccrt.ain, could not be the remains of Bemicc.

As, however, the site of this celebrated city had been fully described
by the ancient writers, Mr. Belzoni determined to prosecute his research-
es ; and at the end of twenty days he discovered, close to the shore, the
extensive ruins of an ancient city near the Cape Lepto Extrema, the Ras
el Anf (Cape Nose) of the present day ; the projection of which forms
an ample bay (now named Foul Bay), having at the bottom an excel-
lent harbor for vessels of small burden. These ruins, which are beyond
dispute those of the celebrated emporium founded by Ptolemy Phila-
delphus, were four days' journey from the rude cells of the quarrymcn
or miners, which Mr. Cailliaud is stated to have so strangely mistaken
for the magnificent vestiges of the ancient Bernice. Several wells of
bitter water were found among the ruins ; and between them and the
mountains was an extensive plain fit for cultivation. The remains of
more than three thousand houses were counted, about the center of
which were those of a temple with sculptured figures and hieroglyph-
ics."

Having made this discovery, he again returned to the valley of the
Nile, where he was for some time occupied in the removal of various
antiquities. He then descended to the sea-coast, and on the 20th of
April, 1810, set out from Rosetta, on an excursion to the district of
Fayoum, and the Oasis of Jupiter Ammon. After roammg about the
shores of Lake Mceris for some time, for he had no leisure for making
researches, be visited the ruins of Arcondc, consisting of a few granite
columns, and fragments, and mounds of burned bricks. He then pre-
pared to cross the desert to the Oasis, which was an affair of some diffi-
culty. Nevertheless, he at length succeeded in completing his prepara-
tions, and commenced his journey, accompanied by a Bedouin guide,
and three or four other persons. Even here, in the desert, ruins of
Egyptian edifices, beautifully sculptured with hieroglyphics, were found.
The scene at first lay among low rocks, sandy hills, and barren valleys,
which were gradually exchanged for a plain of sand, as level as the sea,
and thickly strewed with brown and black pebbles. They continued
during five days their journey over this dreary waste, at the end of
which time they perceived the rocks of the Oasis, and beheld two crows
coming, as it were, to meet them. In the afternoon they entered the
valley, which is surrounded by high rocks, and forms in the midst a
spacious plain, about twelve or fourteen miles long, and about six in
breadth. " There is only a very small portion of the valley cultivated

mmum

■^r

240

LIFB AND TRAVELS OF BELZONI.

on the op[)osito side to that which wo reached, and it can only bo di»-
tinguifilicd by the woods of |)ahn-trocs which cover it. The rest of the
valley is wholly covered with tracts of sand, "but it is evident it has once
been cultivated everywhere. Many tracts of land are of a clayey sub-
stance, which could be brought into use even now. There arc several
small hills scattered about, some with a natural spring at the top, and
covered with rushes and small plants. We advanced toward a forost
of date-trees, and before evening we reached within a mile of a village
named Zaboo, all of us exceedingly thirsty : here we observed some
cultivation, several beds of rice and home sunt-trees, etc. Before the
camels arrived, they scented the water at a distance ; and as they had
not drank since they left Rejan, they set off at full gallop, and did not
stop till they reached a rivulet, which was quite sweet, although the soil
was almost impregnated with salt. I observed hero a groat many wild
birds, particularly wild ducks, in greater abundance than any other."

The first man who perceived them after their entrance into the val-
ley evinced a disposition to shoot Belzoni ; but, upon the explanation of
the Bedouin guide, consented to conduct them to the village. " We
advanced," says the traveler, " and entered a lane ; and as we penetrated
further, we entered a most beautiful place, full of dates, intermixed with
other trees, some In blossom and others in fruit ; there were apricots,
figs, almonds, plums, and some grapes. The apricots were in greater
abundance than the rest, and the figs were very fine. The soil was
covered with verdure of grass and rice, and the whole formed a most
pleasing recess, particularly after the barren scenes of the desert."

His reception at this village was equivocal: there being several
shekhs, each of whom made pretensions to authority. Some were dis-
posed to treat him kindly, while others, more morose, kept at a dis-
tance ; but a few cups of coffee, judiciously distributed, and followed by a
sheep boiled in rice, reconciled the whole ; although they next morning,
when they were again hungry, relapsed into their former rude manners.
Like all other ignorant people, they supposed that he must necessarily
be in search of treasure, and for some time refused to conduct him to
the ruins of which he was in search; but upon being assured that
whatever treasures might be discovered should fall to their share, while
•ill he stipulated for were a few stones, they consented to accompany
him. The ruins, which he supposed to be those of the temple of
Jupiter Ammon, now ser^'ed, he found, as a basement for nearly a
whole village, in the vicinity of which he discovered, as he thought, the
famous " Fountain of the Sun," which is warm at midnight and cold at
noon.* This is a well of sixty feet deep by eight square, which, over-

* Id both these suppositions, Belzoni was mistaken. The Oasis which he visited nraj
not that of Jupiter Ammou, now known under the name of Siwah, but was in realitv
the Oasis Parva, or Little Oasis, called by the Arabs the Wah EUBahryeh (Northern
Oasis). The Temple of Jupiter Ammon, and the Fountain of the Sun, are to be found
in the Oasis Siwah, which ia seven or eight days journey oortti-westof the latter.

aiaitm

ONI.

it can only bo dig-
it. The rest of tho
3 evident it has onco
arc of a clayey sub-
There arc several
ring at the top, and
iced toward a forest
n a mile of a village
I we observed some
ees, etc. Before tho
ice ; and as they had
I gallop, and did not
eet, although tho soil
re a great many wild
e than any other."
entrance into the val-
on the explanation of
to tho village. "We
; and as w« penetrated
iates, intermixed with
; there were apricots,
icots were in greater
•y fine. The soil was
whole formed a most ,
OS of the desert." '•

; there being several
ority. Some were dis-
morose, kept at a dis-
uted, and followed by a
igh they next morning,
r former rude manners,
at ho must necessarily
sod to conduct him to
»on being assured that
Pall to their share, while
)n8ented to accompany
hose of the temple of
basement for nearly a
ered, as he thought, the
at nudnight and cold at
Tht square, which, over-

de Oasis which ho visited waa
a of Siwah, but was in reality
s Wdh ElrBahryeh (Northern
1 of the Sun, are to be found
orth-west of the latter.

HIS DEATH,

241

flowing in a considerable rivulet, sorvcs to irrigate some cultivated
lands. All around it is a grove of palm an.l other treos. Tho toinper-
ature of the water, however, continues at all times the same ; all its aj)-
parent changes being accounted for by the greater or less digreo of heat

in the atmosphere.

From this excursion Iklnoni returned to Egypt, from whence he em-
barked for Europe about the middle of September, 1810. AOer an
absence of twenty years ho visited his family in Italy, whence he de-
parted for England, where he completed and published his travels. A
few years afterward this enterprising and ablo traveler fell in an attempt
to penetrate into tho interior of Africa.

«■

^/■^K

■Hm^ ''

•■'■f"-^*'^-^^^-tr^*'-'

-..-—■ „.«. | _^ ,fym7."r^'^nit,.r.^'«^

C A ILLI A U D'S .

JOURNEY TO THE LIBYAN OASES,
ETHIOPIA, AND SENNAAR,

Frederic Cailliaud, the first modem traveler who made a com-
plete exploration of the rums of Ethiopia, was a native of Nantes. His
taste for archseology and for the natural sciences led him to travel, and
on ^^siting Egypt he found so nmch to interest and fascinate him, that
he remained four years. Early in 1816 he ascended the Nile as far as
Wady Haifa, at the second cataract, following in the steps of Burck-
hardt, and preceding Belzoni by a few months. He also visited the
Great Oasis m the Libyan Desert, west of Thebes, and crossed from
the Nile to the Red Sea, where he discovered ruins which he sup-
posed to be those of Berenice— a mistake afterward corrected by

Belzoni. .

Returaing to France in February, 1819, after an absence of mne
years, Cailliaud immediately applied to the French government, to bo
again dispatched to Egypt for the purpose of makmg more extensive
explorations. His application was warmly seconded by the French
Institute, and in two months he received the appointment, and his
instructions from the Minister of the Interior. After pasmng a month
with his parents at Nantes, he set out for Mareeilles, accompanied by
M. Lotorzec, a cadet of the French navy, who desired to accompany
him. Embarking on the 10th of September, he landed at Alexandria
on the 1st of October, after a very stormy passage. His plan was,
first to penetrate to the Oasis of Siwah, or Jupiter Ammon, in the Lib-
yan Desert, a spot which few travelers had ever reached, and which
none had ever thoroughly explored. The failure of a recent attempt
did not discourage him : he proceeded to Cairo, and after visiting some
new mummv pits which had been opened at Sakkara, made his prepara-
tions and se't out on the 1st of November, accompanied by Letorzec,
and lamail, a French Mameluke. ,

Ascending the Nile to Bcnisouef Cailliaud proceeded to the district

^10>■

IMWwaMMWMtMHI

■MMi^

246 OAILLIAUD-S JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

of the Fyoom, lying a day'8 journey to the west, and was bo fortunate
as to find the governor, who L\ just returned from a successfd foray
a nonrsome rfbeUious desert tribes. The latter sent for an Arab chief
n3 Koroom, and an inhabitant of Siwah, named YousseJ who hap-
namta jvorou , requested them to conduct Cailhaud tu

E Oa^L Ther-/e S^^^ obje'ctions to the plan, but finally yielded
o'condUion that the travelers would neither wnte »or d;-^ d^^
themselves as Egyptiane, and assume the character of natives ot ^Jiro
irgtX ofThe Fyoom gave CaiUiaud a letter to the dnefe of
S vah rXch he declared that the traveler was sent by Mohammed
M a^i shou'd be treated with the same respect which they owed to
^'p"ha '?he camels were brought, and after halting two days at he

this dust thev placed in a taJcia, or small Arab cap, which they neia m
Ihe hafd I Ctold that this was done to preserve us from accidents ;

tioDofour.l,BenM,».d«ao«l..ethetm«ofo.urret«n.'

At s Milage called El Gharal^ on the border, of the tort, they
,,erViotoId by a caravan of inhabitants of the Fyoom, ».th one ta-
dred Ek Wd for Siwah. Some of the native mercbanta r^d
?o rS^ugh the fear of being compromi.ed by the presence of M-
iLdPs Zty The travelcKwere obUged to relinquiA the idea of taking

;:r::?cSnL?ea.and .n«^ot ^;«^:;^>xt':x:--:^.

S r «rZ.:«r- at I"lSr lU^oroom d«cended
S-rhoSand plunged mto the center a «o„t p^ of y,^, **
,. moved aronnd hi t,e cUy opemng a pa»^e ^r^the water, *^

hy twi.tmg 1 "• ^ y^ shoulders to retam torn there,
nrm-pits. f""*'' "*? "J'^ h„ia ,i, jieU, was thrown out of the

not come."

OPIA.

APPROACH TO SIWAH.

247

kd was so fortunate
a successful foray
for an Arab chief

Yousse^ who hap-

mduct Ciulliaud to

but finally yielded,
nor draw, clothe
of natives of Cairo.
;er to the chiefe of
lent by Mohammed
vhich they owed to
ing two days at the
»rch into the desert.
} Cailliaud, " accom-
Benedictions, for the
lust from the places
idleft their imprint;

which they held in
e us from accidents ;
be steps of each man
they would make a

in the manner of an
,y to notice the dura-
stum."

i of the desert, they
[room, with one hun-
ve merchants refused
the presence of Csdl-
ish the idea of taking

observation, even by
> exceedingly circum-
» remark which might
8 they arrived at a
liich, in a little valley,
ng is a funnel-shaped
[h Koroom descended
piece of wood, which

for the water, which
his legs in the orifice,
his body down to the
s to retain him there,
iras thrown out of the
bundant. The Arabs
sion, which appears to
g so, the water would

The caravan continued its march over plains of sand, alternating
with hard tracts covered with agates, and occasionally the remains of
petrified forests, among which Cailliaud found the trunk of a sycamore
eleven feet in circumference and fifteen feet in length. As they ap-
proached Siwah the earth became covered with a crystalization of salt,
forming vast incrusted plains. Finally, on the fifteenth day, they saw
in the distance a valley fertile in palms and acacias, in the midst of which
was a village tributary to Siwah, and distant from it about twenty
leagues. The village, called EI-Garah, was built on the summit of a
steep rock, and appeared to consist partly of the remiuns of ancient
edifices. A curious superstition prevails in this place. A former shekh
predicted that the inhabitants of the village — men, women, and children
— would never exceed forty. The people declared that the number had
sometimes a liMle exceeded that limit, but that the balance was always
speedily restored by the death of the surplus population. When a child
13 bom, they expect a death among the olde^ inhabitants, to make room
for it. Ciulliaud was not allowed to enter the village on the first day,
and on climbing the rock the next moming, the people cried " Chris-
tian !" — whence he knew that some of the Arabs of the caravan had be-
trayed his true character. Youssef of Siwah finally declared that the
traveler would instantly write to Mohammed All, who was his friend, if
they did not admit him, whereupon they allowed him to enter, and
presented him with some fine dates.

" On the night of December 8," says Cailliaud, " Shekh Koroom and
Youssef came into my tent, and said to me with a very mysterious air,
that now was the moment to make use of my sorcery in order to mod-
erate the anger of the people of Siwah. • I have had several occasions,'
said Koroom, ' of knowing how experienced are the Christians in this
art. Signor Belzoni, whom I conducted to the Little Oasis, finding
himself annoyed by the inhabitants and by a caravan of Siwah which op-
posed his researches, suddenly began to write mysterious notes ; and
immediately those who designed to injure him, humiliated themselves
before him and kissed his hands, which proved his great power !' I was
at first tempted to convince him of his error, but I reflected that in or-
der to encourage him to serve me, I ought, on the contrary, to assure
him that I was as skillful as Belzoni, and he might depend on the success
of my magical arts." On the evening of the 9th, they discovered in the
west the palm-groves of Siwah, and encamped near an old well. Koroom
and Youssef set out by night to announce their approach to the shekhs,
and Ciulliaud was so excited with anxiety and expectation, that he found
it impossible to sleep.

" After marching three hours, the next morning, we reached the first
grove of date-palms, and the Arabs fired a volley to signalize our ap-
proach. Youssef came to me, crying out with joy that we had obtained
permission to enter the oasis. We proceeded onward by paths shaded
by numerous palm-groves ; olive, pomegranate, peach, apricot, and fig-

248 CAILLIAUD'8 JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

, , , J « Tliofrr^shnessoftho verdure 19 preserved
trees enriched the landscape ^he freshness oit^ i^^ ^^^

by tanks and abundant springs; ^^^^^^ °^^^J,„f having been able
to penetrate into this district, sepa ^^^^.^^ ^^ ^^

leagues of sand, ^^^^/^^^ l^^, ^^h^iL*!^^^^^ of Jnpiter Am-

almost «nkno^^;n, and perhaps to rtie^^^^^^^^ P^^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^

mon. Youssefpresentedmetothieccliieis, ^^^^

,„anner of the country. T^ey made us encamp in ^^^^^ ^^^

windows ot the nouses weiv. excitement

The people came in c^^^^^^^^^^^

proaching us, under penalty ^^ »; J^^^J^^^^jtl^ S

^of dates. Amudimores^v^efi^^^^^^^^^

TuS'o^tr or ^^^ *^-^^^« T >' t^ d ^ '^^ ^'^ '"" '^'

iired suddenly, and we remained -tj-ly iso^U^d. ^^ ^^^

Soon aftenvard Cailliaud Avas called ^^^ «; S'^^^^ He repUed ''

Hhekhs and people, and asked ^JJ^^^'^^^ \lZl^ "he firman, I

that he was sent by Mohammed Ah. T^i«) tjien aem ^^ j

. bich he had not been able to P--^^' ^«. ^^^^^^^^ ploso of visiting i

bia ; but he had an f fi'-"^'^'i.&'^'?V«resled The only shekh who ;

Souakin, on the Red Sea which he P'-^^f^' ;?,\^^ ^i^iculed the !

could read, understood "Souakm" to mean W^^^^^ ^^^^ ,

building, apparently of the Lower EmP«-e, a«o^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^,^,^ ,

and a beautiful little Roman temple, of the Done order m g^^^^ ^^ ,

of preservation. Near t^« ^f ^'^'^^/^^^ P^^^^L^^^^ a former

^^tS now solicited the <^ }<> f^:^^ ^^^^JZ t
Om Beydah, the most important o^/V^^^J^XT^leaties and
those of the temple of Jupiter Ammon He W ^^^^^ ^^^^^

presents, but they reftised, givmg as a '"^^^o" ^^^^^^^^
would cause the great fountain to dry up. They^ta^edtha .

after the visit of Browne and Ho™«"^"" *^^.^,"^,3 ^kd attributed
became dry. The inhabitants 7-/™ f^^t S g-ed upon it.
the circumstance to the fac «^ *^f .^^"" X^Beryk, ciaud
The next day, on ascendmg the mountam ot Urai adou d y ,

OPIA.

■rdure is preserved

directions. These

'having been able

orld by a hundred

me nearer to a spot

)le of Jupiter Am-

uted me after the

a court under the

)osed for sale. The

curious to see us.

was an excitement

shekhs were obliged

excepted, from ap-

id and sixty baskets

those who addressed

e an opportunity of

le, for the latter re-

jrand council of the
came. He replied
lemanded the firman,
la was absent in Nu-
iie purpose of visiting
The only shekh who
ih," and ridiculed the
correctly. The final
d be permitted to see
lie was furnished with
of the Dead, a small
3 of the ancient inhab-
md the remwns of a
her hill of catacombs,
order, in a good state
were the remains of
8, indicating a former
heled er-Iioom, or the

n to visit the ruins of
ho conjectured to be
d both entreaties and
hat his presence there
itated that immediately
1 Beydah, the fountain
terror, and attributed
having gazed upon it.
vAbou-Beryk, Cailliaud

THE OASIS AND ITS INHABITANTS.

249

overlooked all the province of Siwali, and, by the aid of a good tele-
scope, saw the ruins of Om Beydah rising above the tufted palms.
They appeared to him of gigantic size, and the desire to visit them be-
came stronger than ever. " The sun Avas on the horizon ; my guides had
descended. I followed them, but at a distance, feeling myself unable to
converse Avith them. I pondered in my mind what stratagem I could
de\-ise in order to visit the temple. I let them all pass on — guides,
Arabs, interpreter — and remained in the rear. Reflecting that I was but
a quarter of a league from the spot, I determined to make an attempt
to reach it. Enveloping myself in my bornous, I approached the palm-
grove, but seeing that I was watched by the spies, I felt the impossibility
of accomplishing my object, and returned."

During his short stay at the oasis, Cailliaud collected some informa-
tion regarding the place and people. The principal trade is in dates,
which are produced in great numbers, and of excellent quality. The
government consists of twelve shekhs, six of whom are elected for life,
and the remaining six from year to year. Their deliberations are public,
and the people all take part in them. Theft and other minor offenses
are punished by a fine of dates ; those who are not able to pay, are con-
ducted out of the town, placed upon the ground face do^vnward, and
bastinadoed on the naked loins. If a murderer is taken, he is given into
the hands of the relatives of his victim, to whom he belongs. Accord-
ing to their caprice they may kill him, torture him, or set him free. The
amount received in fines is appropriated to keeping the mosques in re-
pair, to supporting the saints, or holy men, and to assisting strangers
Avho have been piUaged in the desert. As soon as the boys have at-
tained the age of puberty, they are obliged to leave the town and live in
a separate village outside of the walls. Each widower is also obliged to
leave his house and join the young bachelors ; if he marries again, he is
allowed to return home. They are permitted to enter the town during
the day, to see their relatives and friends, but they must retire before
sunset. In spite of their mistrust, obtinacy and superstition, the inhab-
itants of Siwah are very hospitable. The poor, or strangers, may go to
the market of dates and eat to satiety ; each one leaves his goods ex-
posed in public with the perfect assurance that no one will touch them.

At last, by means of presents judiciously distributed by the mame-
luke Ismail, Shekh Ali was induced to second Cailliaud's application to
visit Om Beydah. But the other shekhs and the people still refused,
until, on the evening of the 21st, the traveler offered to bo conducted to
the temple with his eyes bandaged, seeing neither the country nor the
great fountain. On the same day news had been received of the ap-
proach of a large caravan coming from Bcngazi, in Barca — a circum-
stance which would oblige Shekh Korooro to leave with his camels, as
there was not pasturage for all in the oasis. In the evening, Shekh Ali
came with the permission to visit Om Beydah, but counseled the trav-
eler to act with prudence, and to depart with Koroom immediately af-

MiMMir

250

CAILLIAUD'S JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

tcrward. These were also his intentions, and the next morning, at day-
light, accompanied by M. Lctorzcc, Ismail, and four of the sbckhs of Si-
wah, mounted on asses, he set out. Threading the woods of date-palms,
watered by Uttle brooks, for half an hour, they emerged from the bhado
at the foot of the temple. " The ruin, although not extensive, appeared
to me imposuig from its grand masses, constructed in the Egyptian style.
The remembrance of the voyage of Alexander caused me to approach it
with a sort of religious respect. My attention was directed to the walls
of the temple ; I looked for some vestiges of the presence of the Mace-
donian hero ; but I found no inscription, no word in his language. All
was mute ; his name even was unknown to the inhabitants, and buried
in profound obUvion."

llie temple consisted of a mass of ruins about three hundred and
sixty feet in length by three hundred in breadth. The walls were not
more than eighteen feet high, and the roof, a portion of which remained,
was composed of blocks twenty-six feet long. After having measured
and inspected these ruins, Ciulliaud began to make a sketch of them.
The people of Siwah, who accompanied him, approached in order to dis-
cover what he was doing ; but as they saw he drew nothing but stones,
omitting the fountains and date-trees, they allowed him to proceed.
During this operation, Ismail amused them by playing with a fragment
of India-rubber ; they could not comprehend how so small a body could
prolong itself to such an extent, nor how it could efface the writing on
paper. The guides now urged the traveler to depart, and on reaching
the town, he learned that the caravan from Barca had arrived. Shekh
Koroom was very anxious to set out, and the order was accordingly
given to load the camels. They left in the afteitioon for the Little Oasis,
several days' journey to the south, whither the shekh had promised to
conduct them ; but this intention was kept secret from the rest of the
caravan. During the next day's march, they were surprised by the ap-
pearance of another caravan, coming toward them. The camels were
arranged in order of battle, powder distributed, guns loaded, and every
preparation made to repel an attack, but the strangers fortunately
proved to be friends. Shekh Koroom, with two Arabs, and Cailliaud
and his party here left the caravan, in spite of the remonstrances of the
other Arabs, and set out for the Little Oasis. Their route led them
through tracks of salt desert, alternating with mountains of naked rock
and sand. On the 27th, they came upon a salt lake, the existence of
which had been hitherto unknown. The Arabs called it Elbahreyn (the
Two Lakes) ; it was nearly two leagues in length from east to west, by
half a league in breadth, bordered on the north by a long, rocky mount-
ain, and on the south by a great bank of sand, behind which was a grove
of date and doum-palms.

"On the Ist of January, 1820, we started at half-past nine, following
the valley toward the East. The grass, the asclepias, the tamarisks,
and some little marshes which wo passed, announced to us the proximity

fgggamaitittlitm

wim

[OPIA.

RESIDENCE IN THE LITTLE OASIS.

251

[t morning, at day-
>t' the Hbckbs of Si-
roods of date-palms,
[ged from tlic hhado
Icxtensivc, appeared
the Egyptian style.
|d me to approach it
lirected to the walls
lesence of the Mace-
his language. All
ibitants, and buried

three hundred and

The walls were not

n of which remained,

ter having measured

e a sketch of them.

iched in order to dis-

r nothing but stones,

ircd him to proceed.

ying with a fragment

io small a body could

efface the writing on

part, and on reaching

had arrived. Shekh

rder was accordingly

}n for the Little Oasis,

tckh had promised to

from the reat of the

e surprised by the ap-

m. The camels were

uns loaded, and every

strangers fortunately

Arabs, and Cailliaud

remonstrances of the

rheir route led them

untains of naked rock

lake, the existence of

led it Elrbahreyn (the

from east to west, by

r a long, rocky mount-

ind which was a grove

df-past nine, following
ilepias, the tamarisks,
3d to us the proximity

of the oasis. In a short time we perceived the date-groves. With what
pleasure we discovered this rich verdure, in the midst of the sands of the
desert, after having undergone so many fatigues, so much care and pri-
vation! The vegetation appeared to me still more beautiful when I
thought of the signs of winter then prevailing in Europe. At noon, Ave
arrived at El-Kasr, the largest village of the oasis. On approaching it,
we met the shekh, who came to offer us the use of his house, whither we
repaired." The travelers were very hospitably entertained. Having
expressed a wish to visit the antiquities of the place, they were next d.iy
conducted to the ruins of a triumphal arch, of Roman time, small, but of
graceful design. Near the village of Mendysh were numerous catacombs,
and the remains of an old Coptic village, but Cailliaud failed to discover
any thing of special interest. There was also a warm spring, probably
the same mistaken by Belzoni for the Fountain of the Sun, as the latter
supposed this oasis, which he visited, to be that of Jupiter Ammon.

On the 10th, a small caravan arrived from Minyeh, on the Nile, and
Cailliaud took the opportunity to send back with it one of his servants
in charge of all his minecessary baggage, and the minerals, shells, and
curiosities which he had collected. His contract with Koroom being at
an end, he asked the shekh of the oasis to procure him camels for his
further journey, and in the mean time employed himself in making a
topographical plan of the oasis. In this he was soon embarrassed by the
inhabitants, some of whom declared that he was putting their country
upon paper, in order to show it to the pasha, and thereby increase their
tribute ; while others imagined it to be a work of magic, which would
cause their springs to dry up. In spite of the firman of Mohammed
Ali, which the shekh read aloud, publicly, the opposition was so great
that the travelers were obliged to make their observations secretly, but
as they were detained several weeks, waiting for camels, th^y finally suc-
ceeded in making a very correct map.

On the 2d of February, however, a compldnt was made before the
cadi, and the principal inhabitants of the village assembled around Cail-
liaud's house. The travelers were formally arraigned, and the most
profound silence ensued, when an Arab stepped into the circle to de-
nounce them. *' I have seen him," said he, pointing to Cailliaud, " stop
at a fountain and plunge therein an instrument of glass and of silver.
After Laving withdrawn it, he immediately began to write." These
magical proceedings, he said, were made to alarm the inhabitants.
There was then a general demand to behold the .instrument of sorcery.
The thermometer was produced, and Cailliaud endeavored, but in vain,
to explain its properties. When he made the column of mercury rise
or fall, by applying or withdrawing the ball of his thumb, they looked
on with terror, calUng the Prophet to their aid. He then showed them
a telescope and repeating watch, and exploded some fulminating silver ;
all of which all the more firmly convinced them of his magical powers.
They appomted a man to watch him day and night, but the spy found

262

CAILLIAUD'S JOURNEY TO ETUIOPIA.

the sorcerer's tnble ho much better than his ovm, that he soon became
a firm friend. Meanwhile the inhabitants busied themselves in pro-
curing camels, in order that the dangerous visitor might be enabled to
leave as soon as possible.

The departure took place on the 10th of February. The inhabitants
assembled in a crowd to witness it, and Cailliaud judged it prudent to
distribute a few partwg gifts among them. The cadi gave him a letter
of recommendation to the shckiis of the Oasis of Farafreh, which no
European had ever visited, and where, consequently, difficulties were to
be anticipated. Passing a range of sand-stone mountains, and plains of
gravel dotted with isolated peaks, the caravan reached a village called
El-Hayz, a dependency of the Little Oasis, after ten hours' march. Near
this place are the remains of an ancient Christian church, on the wall
of which the travelers noticed a mutilated fresco of St. George and the
dragon. After five days' journey over barren deserts, passing many an-
cient oases which the sands have now completely inundated, they ap-
proached Farafreh. "An accident, which might have proved fattJ,
broke the monotony of our journey. Our camels had been bitten and
frightened by a vicious he-camel of the caravan, and my interpreter and
myself were thrown upon the bare rock. This fall was terrible ; it was
impossible for me to rise ; ray interpreter fell ujion liis head, and I suf-
fered intense pains in the loins. But we were near Farafreh. The de-
bire of arriving there gave us strength, and at the end of an hour our
Arabs assisted us to remount our dromedaries.

" Toward evening we discovered the palms of Farafreh, and arrived
there after a march of ten hours. On seeing us, the Arabs flew to
arms, and assembled at the gate of their village ; most of them mounted
on the towers of the Kasr, and all had muskets. These preparations
made us fear, that they would not receive us. Seeing us advance, they
sent two men to parley with us. The greeting of these men was un-
friendly ; they offered us water and every thing else which we wanted,
on condition that we would not approach the callage, adding that they
had orders to make us continue our route. Our reputation in the Little
Oasis had preceded us, and it was known that we were Christians ; but
1 was not in a condition to go further, and my interpreter was scarcely
able to speak. I told them I had a firman from the Pasha, which they
should sec next morning, at the same time ordering the camels to be
unloaded, and the tents pitched near the village. They still insisted that
we should leave, but I threw myself on my carpet, and listened to no
one. When they had been informed of our accident they took pity on
us, and allowed us to pass the night tranquilly."

The next day the shekhs of the place came to visit Cailliaud. They
paid no attention to the firman of Mohammed Ali, nor to the letter of
the shekh of the Little Oasis ; but a dish of crows cooked with rice,
which was offered to them, secured their good graces — nothing more
was said of forcing the travelers to leave, although they were denied en-

■MMH

lOPIA.

It he BOon became

themselves in pro-

Ight be enabled to

The inhubitauts
iged it prudent to
i gave him a letter
JFaraireh, which no
difficulties were to
itains, and plains of
'hed a village caUed
lours' march. Near
church, on the wall
St. George and the
ts, passing many an-
inundated, they ap-
t have proved fatal,
»ad been bitten and
my interpreter and
was terrible ; it was
his head, and I suf-
Farafreh. The de-
end of an hour our

Farafreh, and arrived
18, the Arabs flew to
nost of them mounted
, These preparations
jing us advance, they
of these men was un-
slse which we wanted,
ige, adding that they
eputation in the Little
! were Christians ; but
terpreter was scarcely
the Pasha, which they
ring the camels to be
They still insisted that
et, and listened to no
lent they took pity on

visit Cailliaud. They
A\, nor to the letter of
ows cooked with rice,

graces — nothing more
;h they were denied en-

THB OASES OF FARAFREH AND DAKHEL.

253

trance into the village. Cailliaud, during the two following days, suc-
ceeded in making a plan of the oasis, and in taking a sketch of the vil-
lage by means of a camera obscura. While he M-as thus employed the
natives thronged around, curious to know what he was doing. lie di-
rected M. Lctorzcc to take a telescope and point it to the sun ; the
interpreter made the people sit on the ground and observe profound
silence. After the magical operation was linished the chiefs were allowed
to look through the telescope, and they cried out in astonishment at
seeing the sun (through the colored lens) as a ball of purple fire. The
people were then allowed to look, and in their gratification, they gave
the travelers permission to enter their village. Contrary to Cailliaud's
expectation, there were no ruins of importance. The principal building
was the Kasr, or Castle, which was about three hundred feet in circuit,
and thirty-five feet in height, built of stone and burned bricks. The
Oasis of Farafreh is said to have been the first which was conquered
by the Moslems from the Chrbtians who formerly inhabited these des-
erts.

After a stay of four days, Cailliaud set out for the Oasis of Dakhel,
which he reached after a journey of three days. On approaching the
largest village, called also the Kasr, the principal inhabitants came out
to receive him. After he had encamped in a gorden of dates and
olive-trees, outside of the wall, the shekhs came, bringing a present of
dates and dried apricots. When he informed them that he desired to
see the antiquities of the oasis, they willingly offered to show them to
him. These antiquities, however, are of little importance, consisting of
some catacombs, several brick edifices of Roman construction, and a
small Egyptian temple which appears to belong to the era of the Ptole-
mies. Near the town there is a natural warm spring, which the inhabit-
ants have conducted into baths cut in the rock, where they bathe every
morning.

Some Arabs, coming from Siout, brought the news that the pasha
was preparing an expedition against Dongola, and this news excited in
Cailliaud the desire to profit by the occasion, to visit Ethiopia and
Meroe. Besides this, his funds were getting low and his party were
exhausted by the fatigues of desert travel. Instead, therefore, of re-
maining to make a careful survey of the oasis, he determined to make a
hasty visit to the Great Oasis of El-Khargeh (sometimes called the
Oasis of Thebes), and then return to the Nile. After a stay of only two
days at Kasr-Dakhel, he set out, journeying through the oasis for the
first day or two ; the path then led over an elevated desert plateau,
crossed by detached mountain chains. " On the morning of the 1st of
March, we reached a mountain of sandstone, whence we had the satis-
faction of discovering, in the south-east, the palms of El-Khargeh, two
and a half leagues distant. It would have been more agreeable to us
to have seen the palms of the Nile ; my Arabs, above all, would have
desired it, as two of them were suffering severely with fever, but we

— ^r-

, ii .m;i IT i I •■ i nnr i Tr ii nr' i r ■—>»•»*'

iffirT*'"*"^'*"'-" I- —

254

CAILLIAUD'8 JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

wore ftll (lolightod to reach El-Khargeh, where wo should have two days
rest. We soon descended into the valley, and encamped near a fine
fountain, tinder some superb acacias. It was a lively pleasure to me to
behold again the ruins which had excited my surprise and admiration in
April, 1818. The shekh of El-Khargeh, who was soon apprised of the
arrival of Europeans, ran to meet me. What was his surpritte when ho
recognized me, after an absence of two years I He no longer considered
me as a fool, and was more than ever convinced that I had discovered
treasures among the ruins, which I had now come to carry away."

Cailliaud only remained two days, to examine the great temple,
which is one hundred and ninety-five feet in length, and then took the
direct road to Siout, in Upper Egypt. The journey was very rough and
fatiguing; they expected to reach the Nile by the end of the fourth day,
but the camels were too much fatigued. The next morning " the camels
were very lively; they seemed already to smell the air of the Nile-val-
ley. At the end of an hour, we reached the crest of a mountain, and all
at once discovered at our feet the shores of the Nile, which we had
quitted four months before. Then, suffering our glances to wander
alternately over the desert we had traversed, and the smiling perspective
before us, we admired at our leisure this interesting contrast. On one
side, the river presented to us, as far as our vision extended, its banks
covered with verdure, with flowers, and with harvests ; the palms of the
Nile, the numerous barks upon the water, and the animals which grazed
upon the shores, animated the lovely landscape : on the other hand, the
desert still saddened us with the appearance of its vast sea of arid and
burning sands."

"On reaching the cultivated lands, we encountered a Bedouin
woman, carrying a jar of water upon her head, and begged her to stop.
She contemplated our caravan, exhausted with fatigue; our camels,
haggard and marching painfully ; our own pale faces, our Arabs covered
with dust, depressed and shaking with fever — ^these objects at once told
her how much we needed water, and she hastened to offer us all that
her jar contained, with some dates. The young woman asked if it had
been a long time since we had left the Nile. * Four months,' replied
the Arabs. ' Four months !♦ she excleumed, fixing upon us her beautifUl
dark eyes, with a touching expression of tenderness and pity. Then,
by a spontaneous movement, she extended her arms toward us, adding
in a plaintive voice, * O my friends, O my unfortunate brothers 1' I
presented this charitable creature with a silver coin, and we left her with
our benedictions."

Disappointed in finding letters from Europe at Siout, Cailliaud re-
solved to proceed immediately to Cairo, where he arrived on the 18th.
He was not able to see Mohammed Ali, for the plague had broken out
in the citadel, and the pasha had shut himself up in his palace at Shoo-
bra. The French Consul, Drovetti, however, presented him to Ismml
Pasha, who was about setting out for Upper Egypt, to take command

ssm

mmmmiismmtm

ITHIOPIA.

should have two days
encamped near a fine

lively pleasure to me to
rprise and admiration in
ras soon apprised of the
as his surpriite when ho
le no longer considered
that I had discovered
le to carry away."
nine the great temple,
ngth, and then took the
ney was very rough and
e end of the fourth day,
xt morning " the camels

1 the air of the Nile-val-
st of a mountain, and all
he Nile, which we had
our glances to wander
[ the smiling perspective
Bting contrast. On one
sion extended, its banks
irvests ; the palms of the
he animals which grazed
: on the other hand, the
its vast sea of arid and

encountered a Bedouin
and begged her to stop.
;h fatigue ; our camels,
faces, our Arabs covered
lese objects at once told
med to offer us all that
^ woman asked if it had
• Four months,' replied
ng upon us her beautifUl
emess and pity. Then,
arms toward us, adding
ifortunate brothers 1' I
!oin, and we left her with

pe at Siout, Cailliaud re-
} he arrived on the 18th.
plague had broken out
up in his palace at Shoo-
presented him to Ismml
Sgypt, to take command

THE EXPEDITION OP ISMAIL PASHA.

256

of tlio expedition against Dongola. This prince assured the traveler
of his protection, and offered to assist him in the execution o/ his
plans. As it was difficult to hire a vessel for the ascent of the Nile,
Cailliaud purchased a boat about twenty-five feet long, with a cabin
large enough for three persons, and sailed for Upper Egypt on the
22d of April, accompanied by M. Letorzec, an interpreter, and two
Arab servants. On reaching Siont, ho learned that the expedition to
DongoJa had been retarded, and therefore proceeded to Tlu-bes, where
he arrived on the 14th of May, designing to occupy himself with
archieological studies during the delay. Ho had a temi)orary dwelling
made from the stones of a ruined temple, at the foot of the mountain
of Goomeh; the roof was composed of the lids of mummy-coffms.
Here he occupied himself in copying the representations in the adjoin-
ing tombs ; but the continued delay of the expedition led him to be-
lie\e that he would have time to return to Cairo, and make an excur-
sion to the ruins of Cyrene on the Libyan coast, before the departure of
Ismail Pasha for Dongola.

In consequence of this, he departed from Thebes on the 6th of June,
and an-ived at Cairo after a voyage of twenty days. Here he visited
Ismail Pasha, who renewed to him the promise of his assistance and pro-
tection, but added that ho intended to set out with the expedition in
fifteen days. Cailliaud's voyage was therefore useless, and after visiting
the petrified forests near Cairo, he started on his return to Upper Egypt
on the 27 th of July. After a tedious voyage of twenty-two days he
again reached Thebes, but continued his journey without halt— except
to purchase four dromedaries at Daraou — to Assouan, where Ismail
Pasha was then encamped, on the left bank of the Nile. " The shores
were crowded with barks, and covered with troops, tents, camels, cav-
alry, baggage, ammunition, and artillery; every thing announced the
war which was soon to be carried on in Nubia. These preparations had
an important aspect : the cries of the animals, the acclamations of the
l>eople, the songs of the Albanians, the music of the cymbals and flutes,
and the roll of the drums — all contributed to excite the imagination.
The camp presented a picture of mirth ; each one gave himself up to
joy ; the soldiers saw pillage in perspective ; the pasha flattered himself
with the idea of capturing forty thousand negroes ; the Europeans were
amUtious of reaching Meroe, and in that ambition, exposed themselves
to the dangers and chances of an unjust war."

Soon after his arrival, Cailliaud paid a visit to Ismail Pasha, and
found him still favorably disposed. He offered the traveler a tent, and
the usual daily ration, which the latter declined. Soon afterward, how-
ever, he learned that the Greek physicians in the pasha's service ■« re
intriguing to prevent hira from gomg ; reports were spread that he had
a secret commission from the French government to search for gold
mines. On visiting the pasha a second time, two days afterward, Cailliaud
saw that these intrigues were likely to prove successful. He was coldly

256

CAILLIAUD'3 JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

received, and tho pasha stated that, Hinco reflecting upon the fltihjoct, ho
believed tliat it would bo UHeleHS for liini to accompany tho expedition,
M'hich was wholly warlike, and would pivo him no opportunity of
examining the antiquities of tho country. Tho traveler presented to
him three firmans, which ho had received from Mohammed Ali, but as
the name of Dongola was not mentioned in them, tho pasha made this a
pretext for persisting in his refusal, stating that a now firman would bo
necessary.

Cailliaud had already gone to considerable expense in preparing for
the journey, and rather than give up his hopes at this point, ho deter-
n)ined to return at onco to Cairo. Tho coimtry was inundated by tho
rise of tho Nile ; his progress Avas tedious and delayed by accidents, and
ho did not reach Cairo until tho 20th of September. Mohammed Ali
had gone to Alexandria, whither tho traveler followed him. He lost no
time in being presented to tho pasha, who demanded news of his son Is-
mail and tho army. Cailliaud gave him the desired information, then
spoke of Sennaar and tho gold-mines which were said to exist in tho
mountains beyond that country, promising to examine them and report
to him whether they could be profitably worked. This proposition was
well received, and the pasha promised new firmans for Sennaar and tho
gold-mines, which wero made out and delivered tAVO days afterward.
The return voyage was immediately commenced ; four days more wero
spent at Cairo, in procuring additional supplies, and the party, after en-
countering a violent hurricane in passing Djebel Silsileh, did not reach
Daraou until the 19th of November. Hero ho obtained a guide for Don-
gola, and learned, from messengers descendmg the Nile, that Ismail
Pasha had gained a victory over the Shygheeas, in Southern Nubia. Tho
messengers carried with them the heads of six shekhs, and tho ears of
several himdred warriors, which the pasha was sending to Mohammed
Ali.

Cailliaud's caravan, consisting of eight persons — includbg himself,
31. Letorzec, and the capttun of his bark, a Maltese — left Assouan on the
25th of November. They ascended the western bank of the Nile, de-
voting very little time to tho examination of the Egyptian temples in
Nubia, in their haste to overtake the army, and reached Wadi Hal&
(the second cataract) on the 8th of December. After being detained in
this neighborhood for some days by vexatious disputes in relation to
guides and camels, which it is not necessary to describe, they resumed
their journey through the Batn el-Hadjar, Sukkot, and Mahass, taking
nearly the same route followed by Burckhardt in his return from the lat-
ter country. The track sometimes followed the course of the river,
sometimes swerved to the right, into the desert, to avoid its windings.
On the 3d of January, 1821, they reached the temple of Soleb, the most
beautiful of the Egyptian monuments in Nubia, above the second cata-
ract, and renmned several days to examine it. Cailliaud considered it
of similar style to the Memnonium at Thebes ; he givea its length at three

^niopiA.

g upon tho fltilyoct, ho
mpiiny tho oxiicilition,
m no opportunity of

traveler prexented to
^lohammcd All, but as

tho pasha made this a
, now firman would bo

|)cnso in preparing for
it this point, ho deter-
' was inundated by tho
ayed by accidents, and
ibcr. Mohammed All
Dwed him. He lost no
led news of his son Is-
iired information, then

said to exist in tho
mine them and report

This proposition was
13 for Sennoar and tho
i tAVO days afterward.
; four days more were
ad the party, after cn-
Silsilch, did not reach
itained a guide for Don-
the Nile, that Ismail

1 Southern Nubia. Tho
hekhs, and the ears of
sending to Mohammed

>ns — ^including himself,
ie — left Assouan on the

bank of the Nile, de-
e Egyptian temples in
1 reached Wadi Halfii
^fter being detained in
disputes in relation to
describe, they resumed
ot, and Mahass, taking
his return from the lat-
le course of the river,

to avoid its windings,
ople of Soleb, the most
hbove the second cata-

Cailliaud considered it
jivca its length at three

¥,
i

ENJ

I'^^^^C

^^ki^GSOt^*

MEETING WITH ENGLISH TRAVELERS.

267

hnndrccl and fifty feet, and counted the remains of more tlian ninety col-
umnB, some of which, thirty-two feet high, are still standing on their
pedestals.*

On the 11th of January, the caravan reached the frontier of Dongola.
*' Our route was bordered by a grove of tufted acacias, which hid from
our view the opposite bank of the river. At a quarter of a league to the
west, we saw other acacias, with cultivated fields and the habitations of
the Arabs. There, only, I felt that I had quitted Egypt. In Lower
Nubia, as in Egypt, the monotonous aspect of the palms, the burning
rocks, the sands which threaten to engulf the valley of the Nile, occasion
a profound feeling of melancholy ; but the region I had reached pre-
sented a very different aspect — the palms were there replaced by thick
woods of acacias and of nebbuks. This verdure recalled Franco to my
mind ; I felt the liveliest emotion in traversing this smiling country. In
the afternoon we encamped at the village of Hafyr, where we remained
a day, and met with Messrs. Waddington and Hanbury, who came from
the province of Shygheea, the limit of their journey, and were returning
to Cairo. I flattered myself that this unexpected meeting would pro-
cure me the advantage of learning what the antiquities were which, the
Arabs had told me, existed in Shygheea ; but Mr. Waddington, whom I
questioned on the subject, was by no means indiscreet. He suffered me
to remain in the most profound ignorance, and my surprise was there-
fore extreme, when, on arriving at Berkel, I first beheld the grand monu-
ments there.''

A few days after this, the caravan began to suffer from a scarcity of
provisions. Sheep were to be had, and the travelers shot doves and
partridges, but the array of Ismail Pasha had swept away all the grain,
80 that they had neither bread for themselves, nor food for their camels.
Opposite the island of Argo, Cailliaud learned that there was a depot of
army supplies, but on visiting it, found that nothing was to be had except
some dourra (a coarse grain resembling broom-corn), and dried beans,
and to obtain even these he must first procure an order from King Tom-
boul, who lived on an a^'oining island. Katiz Effcndi, the commissary,
nevertheless received the traveler kindly, invited him to dinner, and ot
fered to allow his caravan to accompany a small military party of his
own, which was to leave for Ismael Pasha's camp in a few days. This
offer was accepted ; a visit to King Toraboul procured two bags of
dourra and beans ; and Cailliaud then set to work to examine the anti-
quities of the island.

'" We Avere obliged," he says, " to traverse plains covered with thick
woods, where it was often necessary to descend from our horses in order

* The Temple of Soleb, situated in the midst of ft landscape which presents the most
enchanting forms, stands in a little bay of verdure, inclosed on three sides by the rocks
of the Deaert Whether the traveler approaches it from north or south, it appears unex-
pectedly, and the surprise of thu first view tends to lieighten the impression of its sym-
metry and majesty. — B. T. ,1 - I

258

CAILLIAUD'S JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

to penetrate the little paths, bordered with acacia and arbutus. The
charms of these delicious paths made us disregard the obstacles we en-
countered Vegetation, on this island, breathes of freshness and life:
the trees which have been dried up by age, or choked by the violent
embraces of the parasitic vuies, stiU present the appearance of vigor and
youth under the tissue of verdure, with which these gigantic plants em-
brace them, forming arbors which no art can imitate. We at length ar-
rived at the spot, where lie the two colossal statues of Memnon. A bare
space, covered with fragments of sandstone, and two hundred and fifty
by one hundred and seventy feet, indicates the extent of the temple, the
materials of which have entirely disappeared. Not a smgle stone of any
size, which might have formed part of it, can now be recognized. At
the eastern extremity are the statues, overthrown upon the earth. They
are of irray granite, and about twenty-two feet high. The execution is
not of a very good style ; the bodies are too flat, and the nose too de-
pressed; one does not see the correct and beautiful workmanship of the
head of the young Memnon, shipped to England by Belzoni-whence I
infer that the latter is a more recent work than the colossi of Argos.

After several days' detention on the island, CaUliaud joined a caravan
of a hundred and fifty camels, and accompanied it to Old Dongola, which
he reached in five days.' Here he had his own camels and baggage trans-
ported to the eastern bank of the Nile, which was considered more safe,
and then devoted two days to an inspection of the town. He found httle
to interest him except an ancient Coptic convent, bmlt of burned bncks
On the terrace over the upper story were still to be seen the remains of
the belfry, while pilars of granite, with the lotus capital, supported the
interior. The Mussulmen, although knowing the building to have been
erected by the Christians, had nevertheless converted it mto a mosque.
Dongola, formerly a flourishing city, had been ruined by the mcursions
of the Shygheeas, and in traversing the streets, CaiUiaud only met with
two half-naked women, shivering with cold ; for the witid was blowing
strongly from the north, and the place was enveloped in clouds of sand.
Leaving Dongola on the 3d of February, the caravan continued to
ascend the Nile, finding traces of the war in wounded men and devas-
tated vUlages. In three days they reached the frontier of the Shygheea
country, at the village of Karafiit. While resting there three quarters
of an hour under a large acacia, they were accosted by several Shygheeas,
who spoke Arabic. One of them had lost his ears at the battle of
Korti, and related to CailUaud an exciting story of his Bufferings and
escape Beyond this were many abandoned villages and deserted telds.
In two more days they arrived at Merawe, "and it was not without sur-
prise," says CailUaud, " that I found here a place of this name. I in-
quired carefully whether there were any antiquities m the neighborhood,
and was informed that at Mount Berkel, a shqrt distance off, there was
a 'city of the infidels.' There were the monuments whose existence Mr.
Waddington wished to conceal from me. The next morning we set out

aiopiA.

, and arbutus. The
the obstacles we en-
r freshness and life:
loked by the violent
earance of vigor and
e gigantic plants em-
,e. We at length ar-
ofMemnon. A bare
,vo hundred and fifty
)nt of the temple, the
, a single stone of any
y be recognized. At
ipon the earth. They
yh. The execution is
and the nose too de-
1 workmanship of the
ay Belzoni — whence I
3 colossi of Argos."
liaud joined a caravan
o Old Dongola, which
els and baggage trans-
considered more safe,
;own. He found little
built of burned bricks.
)e seen the remains of
capital, supported the
building to have been
erted it into a mosque,
lined by the incursions
)ailliaud only met with
the witid was blowing
)ped in clouds of sand.
i caravan continued to
)unded men and devas-
ontier of the Shygheea
ig there three quarters
i by several Shygheeas,
ears at the battle of
y of his sufferings and
ges and deserted fields,
it was not without sur-
36 of this name. I in-
es in the neighborhood,
; distance off, there was
its whose existence Mr.
ext morning we set out

A NIGHT VISIT.

259

to visit them, across the cultivated fields. Passing the grand pyramidal
mansions of the Shekhs of Shygheea, after a short march, wo reached a
little village called Shibat. What was my joy, when I discovered pyra-
mids to the north, and soon a great extent of ruins at the foot of Mount
Berkel ! Impatient to arrive, I urged on my dromedary. I then ad-
vanced on foot into the midst of those immense ruins ; here, the remains
of a beautiful temple were exposed to my gaze ; there, piled together
confusedly, the debris of pillars, temples, and pyramids. Where shall
I direct my steps ? To which shall I give the preference ? I desired
to see every thing at once. To the east, on the other bank, I saw the
summits of several other pyramids. I ran rapidly around the ancient
inclosure of eight temples, and the pyramids ; but the day passed away,
and I could take but a superficial view of the crowd of objects which
surrounded me, before the night constrained us to retire. A Shygheean
family gave us lodgings for the night, in a little village near the river.
T!ie women only were at home; their husbands, in order to escape
from the Turks, to whom they had not yet submitted, were concealed
somewhere in the desert."

In the night, while Cailliaud was dreaming of the antiquities he had
seen, he was aroused by the trampling of horses, and the voices of men.
"I arose, and as our chamber had no door, in an instant I was in the
court, where I saw five Shygheeans on horseback. It was the pro-
prietor of the house, accompanied by four friends, who had quitted
their retreat, to visit their wives under cover of the night. One of
these men accosted me in an angry voice, demanding why the pasha did
not choose some other mode of punishment than impalement. I was
astounded at this question, the purport of which I could not conceive ;
but his friends called the man and ho entered with them. The rest of
my party were already awakened by the noise. The Shygheeans began
to drink mareesa, a liquor which sometimes bewilders the head. A
slave finally gave me the key to the sanguinary remark which had been
addressed to me. The bodies of five of the inhabitants of the place
were at that moment exposed near our lodging, upon the stakes of their
impalement ; they were malefactors, who had been executed in this
manner on account of their murders and robberies. This execution,
horrible as it was, no doubt contributed to our own safety. We kept
guard the rest of the night, but before morning the five Shygheeans
hastened to regain the desert."

The next day CailUaud set out on a visit to Ismail Pasha, whose camp
he reached after a march of five hours. The prince was iU, but he was
very kindly received by Abdin Bey, to whom he delivered his new fir-
mans, and who, after perusing them, made profuse offers of his services.
The army was to set out for Berber and Shendy in three days, and the
traveler immediately sent for his companion, M. Letorzec, and the rest
of his baggage, in order to be in readmess. Meanwhile, he took occa-
sion to visit the pyramids of Noori, which he had first seen at a distance,

260

CAILLIAUD'S JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA

from the foot of Mount Bcrkel. Tlicsc pyraniids arc fifteen in number j
ofmoJenUe size, the base of the largest mea.unng one hundred and
sixty feet, but curious from the resemblance of some of them to the ter-

raced pvramids of Sakkara. , . /. . j • j-

On the 18th, IsmaU Pasha having recovered from his feigned indis-
position, CaUUaud was admitted to see him He was received with all
[he political cunning of the Turkish race but it was decided that he
should be allowed to accompany the expedition, although, previous to
this interview, it was known that the prince was strongly opposed to it,
under the prelenso that the firmans of his father were not addressed o
him lie had even, as Cailliaud after^-ard learned, sent a dispatch to
the governor at Wady Haifa, to prevent the traveler from going beyond
that point, but the messenger, fortunately, did not arnve m time. The
army at that time consisted of four thousand men, of whom one thou-
sand eight hundred were cavalry, besides two thousand servants and
three thousand camels. There were also twenty-four pieces ot artillery.
The pasha had a body-guard of twenty Mamelukes. The diplomatic
functions were exercised by three ulemas who made great eftor s to
subjugate the people by moral suasion, and avoid the effusion of bloody
They often succeeded in this humane intent, and were rewarded with
robes of honor, and a sum equal to about one thousand two hundred

"he'clmp wa. broken up on the 21st of February, and the army
commenced L march to Berber. One third of the foops were left
^vith the boats, which were obliged to wait for the rise of the NUe to
pass the cataracts; the remainder, headed by the pasha, took a south-
List course across the desert, to avoid the great cui-ve of the Nde. At
nine o'clock a gun gave the signal for loadmg the cameK and the ma^ch
began two hours afterward, with the roll of drums. The ro«te w^
difficult, on account of the rocky ranges which it ^f f ''^^XCniZ
In order to avoid the mid-day heats, the army traveled mostly by night
fi es were lighted along the route, as landmarks, and the troops amused
themselves by kindling the dry foliage of the doum-palms. On the fifth
ni'hta violent wind arose, which drove the flames amorjg the baggage-
clmels and several of Abdin Bey's tents were burned. The ammunition
w^ for'lely in the rear, and escaped. The night-^urney was so
fatiguing, as it was almost impossible to obtain sleep duiing the day
thaf clliaud could with difficulty keep his seat on his camel. In the
moling the rocky valley they had been follow ng, ^f-- m^^^^^^^^^^
row; the presence 6f palms and acacias was hailed with d«hgK J^^^^^^
announced the proximity of the Nile. Finally, after a -f «^f J^^^^^^^^
hours, worn out with fatigue, they reached the mer. l:^^^^'^^
savs the traveler, "I rendered homage to him, m q»7«^"»g 7 *^ ^lu
In the twinkling of an eye, the banks were covered with Bolto , ^U
desired to drink the water of the river, or to plunge into it. The army
ar.d to have regained a new existence. The Nile, m fact, gives

appea

IIOPIA

irc fifteen in number,
nsr one hundred and
no of them to the ter-

■om his feign jd indis-
was received with all
was decided that he
although, previous to
trongly opposed to it,
yere not addressed to
ed, sent a dispatch to
ler from going beyond
t arrive in time. The
sn, of whom one thou-
housand servants, and
bur pieces of artillery,
ukes. The diplomatic
made great efforts to
I the effusion of blood!
d were rewarded with
thousand two hundred

'ebruary, and the army
f the troops were left
the rise of the Nile, to
he pasha, took a south-
cui-ve of the Nile. At
e camels, and the march
Irums. The route was

was necessary to cross,
aveled mostly by night ;

and the troops amused
um-palms. On the fifth
les among the baggage-
urned. The ammunition
e night-journey was so
n sleep duiing the day,
!it on his camel. In the
ving, became more nar-
dled with delight, for it
ifter a march of fourteen
river. " Like the rest,"

in quenching my thirst,
jvered with soldiers ; all
unge into it. The army

The Nile, in fact, gives

VISIT OF KING LKOTARD.

261

life to every thing which breathes or vi;getatus in these countries, iuu\
the Egyptian Avho is afar from its creative waters gccms to have lost tlic;
essential part of his vitality."

The day after the pasha's arrival, a courier brought news that the
Shygheeans had rallied and imited themselves with the forces of Shtndy.
Berber was but two days' journey distant, but the cannon had not yet
arrived, and a further halt was oidereu, until it should come up. Tluoe
days afterward, another courier brought a contradiction of the first nas-
Hugc, which, it was subsequently ascertained, Avas only a ruse of ilio
pasha, in order to cncourago his troops witli the prospect of a batth,'..
The march was resumed at midnight on the 4th of March. " Many of
the camels, overcome with fatigue, dropped by the way, and the order
was given to slaughter them for provisions. One of my own, lying upon
the ground, was unable to rise ; it Mas loaded with dhourra, and I sliould
have willingly lost the load if I could have preserved the animal. Tlio
final stimulant, which consists in applying a burning torch to the flanks,
Avas then adnunistcred ; the poor brute rose and ran, but only to full
again, further on."

In approaching El-Mekheyref, the chief city of Berber, the pasha, in
order to make a strong impression on the inhabitants, disposed his army
in order of battle. The brilliant array of the troops, their rich dresses,
and the splendor of the pasha's staff", filled the people with astonishment
and admiration ; and the chiefs of the country came at once with off'ers
of submission. In order to proceed further, it was necessary first to pro-
cure a great number of baggage camels, and expeditions were sent among
the Arabs of the surrounding deserts for this purpose. Soon after his
arrival, Cailliaud paid a visit to the King of Berber, Nasr ed-Deen, whom
he found lying upon his bed, suffering from some wounds which he had
received in his Avars with the Shygheeans. A low stool, exactly similar
to those which are represented in the tombs of Thebes, was oflfered to
the traveler, who was also furnished Avith coffee, a pipe, and some other
refreshments. Five shekhs, tall, athletic men, of noble figure, were
seated around the king.

" On the 12th of March, a son of Mck Nemr (King Leopard), the
King of Shendy, brought to Ismail Pasha tho news of the submission of
that country. The latter desired a visit from the Mek himself, who
reached the camp on the 22d. He was in a sort of palanquin, carried by
two camels. His costume, of an elegant simplicity, consisted of tAvo robes
of great fineness ; the under one was Avhite, and the other of a rich In-
dian stuff; a sort of mantle hung from his shoulders, and upon his head
was a pointed cajy, with long, falling ends. His guard was composed of
fifty men armed Avith lances, shields, and sabers, some of Avhich were
adorned Avith silver ; behind him marched two men armed Avith lances,
and two others caiTying long Avands, tipped Avitli balls of silver. After
having several times prostrated himself, Avith a sad and humiliated air,
the unhappy king, on being invited thereto, seated himself upon a carpet

262 CAILLIAUD'S JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

in front of Ismail I'asha. Ho took the hand of the latter kissed it above
and below, and placed it upon his head in token of sub.mss^n. The
Iha gave him t J understand that his visit was tardy, and the king hum-
bWreplicd that he was his servant. Neither pipe nor coffee was pre-
^Jted to him. At the end of ten minutes of silence, ho took las leave
d the inquietude of his soul painted on his countenance. The next day
tL pasmshowedhun more attention, sending him a horso nchly capar-
led, a dress, a green tent, and some dishes from h.s own table.;'

Re nforcements having arrived from Egypt, the army was obliged to
delayTmarch from the%ant of provisions. CaiUiaud was very nnpa-
Sent^ but made the most of his time in endeavoring to i«certain from the
hi^abitants whether there were any ancient ruins m the pruvuice On
the 1 9th of April, being in the pasha's tent, the conversation turned upon
il nines The pasl^. cxhibi!ed a large diamond which his lather had
fent him, and asked Cailliaud in what country such stones were found
Se S r answered that all the diamond mines heretofore discovered
i ere situated about the 18th parallel of latitude. Ho ook occasion to
Tay a so, that in order to discover the tvnie diamond soil it would be ad-
vtSbTe to make excursions out of the regular track of the army and
added that the antiquarian explorations which he desired to make in
Shendy might bo turned to good account, in this manner After the
Xct had been fully explained, the pasha stated that ^^^^^'^^J^
son would soon commence, the army would not ha t at Shendy but^o
Cailliaud's great delight, gave him permission to set out m advance, with
a sSescfrt. He Lifted, however, that the travelers should pass for
TuX and assume Turkish names, giving to Cailliaud the naine of Murad
ESiandtoM.LetorzecthatofAbdallahEl.Fakeer. Whenthetwo
conveldm French, the natives supposed the language to be Turlash
Zd'in fact, there is some resemblance in the sound of the two an-
Ses), while their Turkish dresses, their bare legs their long beards,
§^eir si Lven heads, and their tanned complexions made the disguise com-
;S and caused them to be taken everywhere for good Mussulmen

Havnc. received firmans from the pasha, they set out two days after-
ward and after passing the mouth of the Atbara (the ancient Asta.
boras), Te most northern tributary of the Nile, continued their jom-ney
foi two days and then crossed to the eastern bank of the Nile at the
'diagc of K^^^^ Here, Cailliaud had already passed the latitude
a lined by the French geographer, D'Anville, to the ancient city of
Mero" and was micertain what course to take. After sweeping ho
hor zo; ^ va^. for some trace of ruins, he proceeded southward enter-
L. he t^rSy of Mek Nemr, of Shendy. Their appearance called to-
ge°thei a crowd'of people ; the envoys sent by the P-^a to bhendy had
followed the western bank of the Nile, and they were the first Tu ks
wh ml natives had ever seen. .^W J-lged it prudent to ^^^^^^^
thov were only a little in advance of the pasha's army Aftei the mhab
tnts had reti^-ed, Cailliaud took his gmde apai-t, and began to question

OPIA.

tor, kuscd it above
BubiniHsion. The
and the king hum-
lor coffee was pre-
]io took his leave,
ice. The next day
lorso richly capar-
8 own table."
my was obliged to
lud was very impa-
ascertain from the
tlie province. On
rsation turned upon
rhich his father had
stones were found,
sretoforc discovered
lo took occasion to
soil, it would bo ad-
:k of the army, and
desired to make in
manner. After the
hat as the rainy sea-
b at Shcndy, but, to
out in advance, with
elers should pasb for
d the name of Murad
ceer. "When the two
iffuace to be Turkish
und of the two lan-
[8, their long beards,
ade the disguise corn-
good Mussuhnen.
it out two days after-
•a (the ancient Asta-
utinucd their jouniey
k of the Nile, at the
y passed the latitude
o the ancient city of
After sweeping the
led southward, enter-
appearance called to-
pasha to Shendy had
were the first Turks
it prudent to say that
uy. After the inhab-
iud began to question

DISCOVKRY OF MEROK.

263

him concerning what ho had hoard in Horbor, that one day's journey
north of Shendy there were a great many ttiraftrrU, or heaps of hewn
stones. The latter, supposing that the traveler was sont by the jijisha
to discover hidden treasures, first asked him whether, if ho fjund a great
quantity of gold, he would give him a little, that he might got married.
To this Cailliaud consented, and ho then verified the statement, adding
that the tarabeela were only four or five leagues distant ; that there were
a hundred of them, and that it was possible to climb to their summits.

Cailliaud feared that these tarabeela were simply heaps of granite
boulders, such as are scon at Assouan. His cxcitenu^nt was so great that
he could not sleep ; rousing his party at one o'clock in the morning,
much to tlieir astonishment, he set out. Mek Nemr had passed along
tlie day before, on his return to Shendy ; his convoy had plundered the
inhabitants of the villages through which they passed, and the people
were awake and lamenting over their loss. Tlio travelers feared a re-_
prisal under cover of the night, and did not consider themselves safe, un-
til the dawn appeared, when they entered an open desert plain three
miles in length. " The guide then announced to me that we should soon
sec the tarabeela. Imagine the joy which I felt on beholding a crowd
of pyramids, the summits of which were splendidly gilded by the rays of
the sun, then just above the horizon ! Never did he illumine a spectacle
more delightful to me I I urged on my dromedary ; I would have anni-
hilated the space of a league or two which still separated me from the
ruins of the ancient capital of Ethiopia. At last, I arrived ; my first aim
was to mount an eminence that I might embnice at one glance the whole
extent of the ruins. I remained motionless with pleasure and admiration
at the sight of this imposing spectacle. I then ascended the most ele-
vated of the monuments. There, wishing to pay a tribute of homage to
the illustrious geographer whose genius had directed my steps, I carved
upon the stone the name of D'Aiiville. Again casting my eyes around
me, I discovered in the west a second group of pyramids, and, a short
distance from the river, a vast space covered with ruins and rubbish, an-
nouncing the situation of the ancient city. When the rest of my party
arrived, I descended to examine the little sanctuaries attached to the
tombs ; silence and solitude prevailed everywhere. I saw, to my great
regret, the impossibility of establishing my residence in one of these fu-
nereal chambers, and therefore sought an abode in the little village of
Assour, near the river. In repairing thither, I passed among the other
pyramids and the ruins which I had seen, and distinguished there the
remains of several temples, with an avenue adorned with colossal rams."

Cailliaud found that the letters of the pasha were not respected by
the chiefs of the village. He therefore adopted the more prudent plan
of inviting them to dinner, and distributing some beads and other trink-
ets among the people. This course soon established him in their good
graces, and he was allowed to continue his explorations undisturbed,
during the fourteen days which intervened before the arrival of the

264

OAILLIAUD'S JOUUNKY TO ETHIOPIA.

imHlia aiul his army. The group of pyramuls wliicli lie had first soen be-
longed to the necropolis of tho ancient city. They stand upon a low
ridge at the foot of the mountain of Mogran. They are all huilt of fine
red sandstone, in regular courses of masonry, the spaces of which are not
filled, or cased, as in tho Egyptian pyrannds, except at the corners, which
rre covered with a narrow hem, or molding. The stones arc about
i.ighteen inches high, and tho recession of each course vanes from two
to four inches, so that tho height of the structure is always much greater
than the breadth of tho base. A peculiarity of these pyramids is, that
tho sides arc not straight but curved line:, of different degrees of convex-
ity and tho breadth of the courses of stone is adjusted with the utmost
nicety, to produce this fcrm. The l.vrgest of these pyramids has a base
of fifty-eight, with an elevation of eighty-five feet. There are twenty-ono
in all, besides tho substructures of sixteen others. To the east are twenty
others, more or less ruined, and on the plain nearer the Nile, the romams
of a group of forty-six, some of which are very small, having bases of
from fifteen to twenty feet. The sites of one hundred and ninety-six
pyramids, in all, have been discovered. Of this city, nothing remams
except mounds of pottery and broken bricks, the foundations of stono
walls, fragments of columns and statues, and occasionally tho outlmes of
temples and other public edifices, covering an extent of nearly two miles.
From the more recent researches of Lepsius, the age of these rums is
fixed at from two thousand to twenty-two hundred years.

During his stay, Cailliaud was not without considerable anxiety for
tho safety of his party. Wishing to forward news of his discoveries to
Europe, he determined to send one of his Arabs to Egypt, with letters,
and engaged one of the men of Assour to accompany him as far as the
army On the return of the latter he learned that his messenger had
been waylaid and robbed by the country people, who ^lad destroyed all
the letters. The shekh of a neighboring village, Avho had become his
friend, informed him that the soldiers of Mek Nemr intended to seize
him, and offered him an asylum in his own house. But tho very next
day, fortunately, tho first of the pasha's boats appeared on the Nde, an-
nouncing the immediate approach of the Egyptian army, which amved
two days afterward, on the 8th of May. Cailliaud was now safe, and
having completed his drawings and measurements, he loUowed the
troops, and arrived next day at Shendy. On crossing the Nile to visit
the pasha, who was encamped upon the western bank, he was informed
by the latter that the army would continue its march to Sennaar— a cir-
cumstance which obliged him to postpone an excursion to the valleys
of Mesowurat and Naga, south-east of Shendy, where, he was informed,
there were manv ruined temples. , , .

On the 15tli"of May, the king of Shyghcea came to render his m\y
mission to the pasha. He expressed a desire to enter a military life, and
was accordingly attached to the army, at the head of four hundred men
of his tribe. The same dav the camp was broken up, and the army

mmtmiim'it

iiioriA.

Iio lind first Hocn bo-

loy stand ujwn a low

y nro all built of fino

)uceM of which ure not

»t the corners, which

lio stones arc about

ursc varies from two

always much greater

CSC ])yrunu(ls is, that

nt degrees of convex*

sted with the utmost

pyramids has a base

There are twenty-ono

To the east are twenty

■ the Nile, the remains

small, having bases of

ndred and ninett/-aix

city, nothing remains

foundations of stone

ionally the outlines of

nt of nearly two miles.

age of these ruins is

1 years.

nsiderable anxiety for
8 of his discoveries to
to Egypt, with letters,
ipany him as far as the
lat his messenger had
who 'lad destroyed all
who had become his
enir intended to seize
'.. But the very next
)eared on the Nile, an-
in army, Avhich arrived
lud was now safe, and
onts, he followed the
issing the Nile to visit
)ank, he was infonned
irch to Senna^r — a cir-
Dursion to the valleys
here, he was informed,

lame to render his sub-
iter a military life, and
i of four hundred men
icn up, and the army

CROSSING THE WHITE NILE.

265

commenced its march for Ilalfay and Scnnaur. As the disposition of
the inhabitants of those countries was not known, distributions of am-
mutiition were made, mid every one required to be on the alert. The
journey was very painful and fatiguing ; there wore not cnoijgh bag-
gage-camels to carry a sufficient supply of grain, and as the country was
thinly inhabited, both men and beasts suffered severely from hunger.
Many camels perished; the soldiers were reduced to eating the nuts of
the doum-palm, and ])illage became the oidcr of the day. After ten
days the army arrived opposite Ilalfay, the king of which had announced
his submission two days beforehand. Cailliaud crossed the Nile in a
canoe and visited the town, which he found almost deserted. He had
great difficulty in procuring provisions, as the inhabitants had concealed
their supplies. Finding it impossible to return the same night, he was
obliged to ask the kuig's hospitality, which was cheerfully extended
to him.

It Avas Ismail Pasha's intention to irake a halt at Ilalfay, but on ar-
rivmg there he learned that Sennaar was in a state of revolution, the
legitimate king, who had been held captive for a long time by two
usurpers, having succeeded in establishing a party, while a third usurper,
who had arisen, was hostile to both. These intestine troubles seemed
to the pasha to furnish a favorable opportunity for the accomplishment
of his own plans, and he hastened to profit by it. Continuing the
march, the army reached the confluence of the Blue and White Niles
on the 27th, and encamped on the banks of the latter, at a place called
Omdurman, near a wood of largo acacias. Here commenced the king-
doms of Sennaar on the eastern bank, and of Kordofan, on the western.
Many of the slaves, who were natives of the latter country, and of Dar-
Fur, which lies beyond it, took occasion to escape from the fatigues and
brutal treatment to which they had been subjected : among them was
one which Cailliaud had purchased in Berber for the moderate price of
seventy-five francs.

The passage of the river commenced on the following day. There
were only five small boats to be had, which were employed to transport
the artillery, baggage, and ammunition. The prospect of approaching
battle, pillage, and booty, and the confidence of victory with which their
previous successes had inspired them, excited the soldiers to the highest
pitch. "During three days, the surface of the river was covered with
camels, horses, Turks, and Arabs, who cast themselves into it, some sup-
porting themselves by empty jars, or pieces of wood, others clinging to
the tai'j of horses, or the humps of camels. In this manner passed the
army, consisting, Avith the slaves, of five thousand five hundred men, and
three thousand camels and horses. It would be difiicult to describe the
tumult, the confusion, the cries of men and beasts, and the sound of the
blows with which the poor beasts were forced into the flood : one would
have said that it was a retreating host, pursued Math the sword, rather
than troops rushing confidently to victory. Unhappily, this excessive

■MNU

266

CAILLIAUD'3 JOUUNEY TO ETHIOPIA

7x'!il oopasioniMl the loss of tliirty men, nnd ono hundred and fifty cornels
and horses."

Tlic point of land hctwccn the two rivers, forming tho northern ex-
tremity of tho peninsula of Senniiiir, was eiilied Ran (Cape) el-Klutrtoum,
Haifa league to the eastward, on tho bank of the IJlue Nile, were tho
first habitations of SenniiAr.* At the pight of the army tho inhabitants
took to flight. Tho embassadors whom the pasha had sent to demand
the submission of those who held the reins of government, returned
with tho information that a largo army had eollected near the capital,
with several pieces of cannon ; and tho kings had replied that they woiild
wait to see the pasha's army before they decided what they would do.
The order was given to continue tho march, but as Cailliaud bad heard
at Ilalfliy that there were ruins at a place called Sobah, on the Blue
Nile, ho applied to the pasha for a boat to ascend the river, while M.
Letorzec followed the army with tho camels and baggage.

Cailliaud set sail on the Ist of June, and arrived next day at a town
called El-Eylfun, near Sobah. At his appearance, a crowd of people
collected, astonished at his Osmanli costume, which they had never be-
fore seen. In the habit of touching all that they saw, they passed their
hands over his garments ; the shawl and shoes attracted them, especially
the latter, with tho red color of which they w^ere delighted. After
having thus examined him they conducted him to the shekh, where a
second inspection took place. The p'^oVh, far from suspecting that he
Avas a Christian, received him in the mosque. He asked many questions
concerning the Egyptian army, but as Cailliaud was very desirous of
visiting the ruins, he gave him a Spanish dollar, and received a horse
and guide. The shekh informed him that ho had done well to travel in
a boat, for the general opinion in the country was that the pasha's army
would be cut to pieces at Senna&r, where there wore four large cannon,
and eight or ten thousand warriors. Sobah was reached after a ride of
an hour and a half, and the traveler saw distinctly that an ancient city
had once stood there ; but, to his great mortification, nothing was to bo
found except heaps of earth and gravel — not a single stone of any size,
nor the slightest trace of a wall. The only object, which gave any evi-
dence of tho ancient character of the place, was a mutilated ram-headed
sphinx, about five feet in length.

During the following week the wind was adverse, and the voyage
was very slow and tiresome, but the desire of ascertaining the points of
junction of tho Kahad and the Dender, Abyssinian tributaries of the
Blue Nile, induced Cailliaud to continue his journey by water. He had
learned, from a courier, that the pasha's army was marching forward
without resistance, and soon afterward heard that tho king of Senna&r

♦ Now the city of Khartoum, a pluco of from thirty to forty thousand ii^h:;bllant8,
which has been built up entirely under tho Egyptian domination. It has become tho
great trading mart of eastern Soudan, and its riBO has therefore been tho ruin of both
Bhondy and Sennadr.— B. T.

[lOPIA

Ircd and fifty caniels

ing the northern ex-
(Capc) elrKhartoum.
llluo Nile, were the
army the inhabitants
had sent to demand
;ovemment, retunied
!tod near the capital,
plied that they would
what they would do.
Cailliaud had heard
. Sobah, on the Blue
id the river, while M.
iggage.

d next day at a town
e, a crowd of people
[i they had never be-
aw, they passed their
acted them, especially
ere delighted. After
,0 the shekh, where a
m suspecting that he
asked many questions
was very desirous of
and received a horse
done well to travel in
that the pasha's army
'ere four large cannon,
•cached after a ride of
;ly that an ancient city
ion, nothing was to bo
ingle stone of any size,
,, which gave any evi-
mutilated ram-headed

I'crse, and the voyage
?rtaining the points of
nian tributaries of the
icy by water. He had
was marching forward
at the king of Senna4r

forty thousand ii^hablUnts,
ination. It has become the
ofore been the ruin of both

I V."*' ■

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

" 1^ 12.2

it 1^ IIIIIM

1.8

11.25 ill 1.4 ■ 1.6

«r'

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/iCIVlH
Collection de
microfiches.

jRi—

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductlons / Instltut Canadian de microreproductlons historlques

:^.__J.^IZI.:i^I^™."tf°**'''"^

.lyM^.

SCENERY ON THE BLUE NILE.

267

had submitted quietly ; that ho had come in great state to visit tlic
pasha, accompanied by hia ministers, the principal inhabitants of the
capital, and an escort of two hundred men ; that he and the pasha had
exchanged gifts, and the latter had taken possession of the capital.
After passing the mouth of the Rahad, Cailliaud, on the 12th, reached
the village of Kourdkoyleh, where the scenery began to assume a very
different aspect. "At the dawn of day," says he, "I endeavored to
enter the forest of Kourdkeyleh to surprise some wild animals. I saw
there many monkeys, the fresh tracks of the elephants, guinea fowls,
and birds of brilliant plumage, which uttered harsh cries. Since the
Pharaohs, perhaps, no bark had spread its sail on the river which I
navigated, and it was not without a keen satisfaction that I saw mine
advancing before all others, fighting with the wmds m quarters where
the gaze of a European had never before penetrated. I felt an invol-
untary emotion in contemplating those trees, conquerors of Time, which
age had not bent ; those thick woods, whose eternal foliage never
spread for the traveler a protecting shade against the burning sun;
those inaccessible thickets where the shepherd never led his flocks.
Savage nature alone breathed amid this constantly renewed vegetation ;
the acacias, the nebbuks, the dead trees themselves, were enlaced in the
inextricable convolutions of the parasitic \ines, thus forming a compact
mass of verdure, through which a few almost impracticable paths allowed
the Hght to enter. The shock of our oars and the sound of the water
against our bark alarmed the inhabitants of the flood ; the crocodiles
forsook the solitary shores, and the frightened hippopotami, swimming
in herds around us, seemed by their bellowngs to reproach us for
havmg iivaded their domain. The river was bordered with the bam-
boo, the ebony, and other new and precious woods; we saw trees,
plants, insects, and shells of unknown kinds, and rejoiced in the dis-
tuictive, yet hitherto unknown physiognomy of this Anrgin soil."

The traveler passed the mouth of the River Dender, and continued
slowly to advance until the 21st, when, havmg arrived within three
leagues of Sennaar, ho finished the journey by land. The army had
already been encamped there eight days. M. Letorzec and the rest of
the party were comfortably established. Cailliaud immediately called
upon the pasha, whom he found greatly elated with his rapid successes.
He at once began to speak of Fazogl and its rich mines of gold, believ-
ing that it was in his power to add still richer and more fertile regions
to those which he had already brought under the Egyptian rule. Mean-
while, it was necessary first to arrange the internal affairs of Sennaar.
King Bady, the legitimate monarch, was reinstated, and named shekh
of the kingdom ; one of the two usurpers had fled into Abyssinia, after
having treacherously murdered the other. Cailliaud employed his tune
in seeking for ancient remains, and having heard that there was a great
figure in stone at Djebel-Mouyl, seven leagues from Sonnadr, persuaded
the pasha to furnish him with an escort for a journey thither. He

268

CAILLIAUD'S JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

found, however, that this statue was nothing more than a heap of rough
granite boulders, which bore a faint resemblance to a human figure.

" On the 22d of July," says Cailliaud, " I paid a visit to the former
king, Bady. I found him seated on a stool, in one of the courts of his
residence, where he enjoyed the fresh air, with his ministers and some
persons of his suite at his side. He ordered a straw mat to be brought,
on which I placed myself. lie was dressed in a broad shirt of ivhito
linen ; his legs were bare, his feet covered Avith long sandals, and the
royal cap upon his head. A servant brought him a pipe oi the com-
monest kind used in the country. Bady is a man of about forty yeara
old, of middling height, robust, of an agreeable figr.re, with crisp hair
and a coppery complexion, which is that of the race of Foungi, to which
he belongs. He asked mo what difference I found between my country
and his, believing me to be from Constantinople, and I drew a picture
which threw his own capital quite into the shade. ' At present,' Bwd
he, ' Sennaar is no longer to be recognized ; it is very different from
what it was in the times of my ancestors.' Then, with a visible emotion,
he bade me see all aromid him the ruins of the palace of his father,
which still overlooks the whole city. 'Tlieso ruins,' said he, 'are the
remains of the power of my ancestors, the limits of whose kingdom
once reached to the confines of Dongola.' Having nothing worthy of
his rank to offer him, I gave him one of my boxes of oxygenated
matches. When he saw one of them ignite m the sulphuric acid, he
called upon the name cf the Prophet, and exhibited the greatest sur-
prise." , .

In the beginning of August, the pasha, m a conversation with LaU-
liaud, praised the climate of Sennaar, and declared that the contrary
accounts given bv Bruce were totally false. Only one month of the
rainy season had passed ; the rain had not been frequent nor the heat
excessive, and there was no sickness among the troops. " The rains
cease at the end of September. The soil, profoundly saturated, retains
hero and there pools of stagnant water, which, fermentmg by the sud-
den action of the heat, exhale putrid miasma. These, jomed to the not
less pernicious vapors of the earth, vitiate the air, and engender i. host
of maladies ; the fevers, above all, prevail until January. At the ap-
proach of this disastrous season, the inhabitants of the banks of the
river hasten to desert the villages with their beasts, and to fly from the
pestiferous atmosphere." Twenty days after this conversation with the
pasha, malignant fevers, dysenteries, and affections of the liver, threat-
ening an epidemic, prevailed among the troops. M. Letorzec, the in-
terpreter, and two of CailUaud's Arab servants, became very ill, and six
of the Greek and Italian physicians of the army died. " By the 25th
of September, there were six hundred deaths and two thousand sick, m
an array of three thousand men, and the number increased every day.
During the whole campaign, the army had never before been in so
pitiable a condition. The pasha, m despair, drew up an account of hia

OPIA.

lun aheap of rough
human figure,
visit to the former
of the courts of hia
luiuisters and some
mat to be brought,
oad shirt of ivhito
ig sandals, and the
A pipe oi the com-
f about forty years
".re, with crisp hair
of Foungi, to which
Btween my country
id I drew a picture

' At present,' sjud
very different from
th a visible emotion,
lalace of his father,
),' said he, ' are the
of whose kingdom

nothing worthy of
xes of oxygenated
) sulphuric acid, he
;ed the greatest sur-

iversation with Cail-
i that the contrary
' one month of the
queut nor the heat
roops. " The rains
ly saturated, retains
nenting by the sud-
je, joined to the not
nd engender ^ host
iimary. At the ap-
of the banks of the

and to fly from the
onversation with the

of the liver, threat-
M. Letorzec, the in-
arae very ill, and six
lied. " By the 25th
ivo thousand sick, in
increased every day.
r before been in so
p an account of his

.mesi&&Si^:a^

-■"^ '■-■'- 1— »»f

Sk^:

MORTALITY AT SENNAAR.

269

fiituation, and sent it to his father. The soldiers were obliged to eat
dourra of a very inferior quality, which was very unwholesome for them ;
destitute of clothes, almost half-naked, they slept on the damp earth ;
there were neither physicians nor medicine of the proper kind. Horses
and camels died in all parts of the city and its environs, and the police
were not sufficiently careful to remove the carcases, which soon infected
the air. All these causes contributed to augment the number and in-
tensity of the diseases."

Ibrahim Pasha arrived at Scnnadr on the night of the 22d of Oc-
tober, to the surprise of his brother, who did not expect him so soon.
Fearing the contagion with which the city was infected, he only remained
there two hours, and encamped about a league to the southward. The
arrival of this prince, who was a general favorite, rallied the spirits of
the troops. He hastened to supply the sick with rice, flour, and other
articles from his own stores, paid the troops thoir arrears, and furnished
them with clothes. His physician conceived the happy idea of trans-
porting the sick several leagues into the interior, and the change of air,
with the more careful treatment which they experienced, soon produced
a rapid diminution of their number. " For my part," says CaiUiaud, " I
have experienced many tribulations. The state of M. Letorzec and my
interpreter gave me the greatest anxiety, and my Arabs were devoured
with fever. For two months, I had been obliged to take care of all the
persons who were attached to me, attend to all our wants, prepare our
food, wash my own clothes, look after my sick camels, and "eek in all
directions for the necessaries of life. "When I could obtain a Uttle wheat,
paying for it at the rate of a franc per pound, I mixed it with three
parts of dourra, and made cakes which served us instead of bread.
None of the natives would serve us at any price, and it was impossible
to find other domestics. All the officers of the army were in the same
case. My interpreter gave me the greatest trouble ; he became insane,
and I was often obliged to bind him fast upon his bed. This state
was followed by complete exhaustion, and the unfortunate man at last
died."

CaiUiaud visited Ibrahim Pasha soon after his arrival. He was very
kindly received by the prince, who, after the traveler had expressed to
him his desire to explore the White Nile, and to penetrate to Bomou
and Timbuctoo, sent for his maps — a fine collection of which he carried
with him — and explained the plan of his campaign. Ismail Pasha, with
half of the troops, was to follow the course of the Blue Nile as far as
FazogI : Ibrahim advancing toward the south-west, would reach the
White Nile somewhere in the territories of the Dinkas. The former,
taming westward, was to visit the pretended gold mines of Gamamyl,
and then proceed in the same direction, where the abundant rains fur-
nish a number of wells and natural cisterns. Ibrahim would approach
his brother until the junction of the two armies should take place, and
they would return northward on a route parallel to the two rivers. Af-

CAILLIAUD'S JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

270

tcr this was accomplishca, Ibrahim's magnificent plan was to explore the
Wh e Nile with well-armed barks and canoes, to its vefy sources If
the river hould communicato with the Niger, the fleet would enter the
rtc" tram; otherwise it would return, and after bemg remforced
would march upon Kordofan, Dar-Fur and Bornou, and return to Egypt
b V w W TripoU. Such was the ambitious plan of the avenger of M .cca,
anVth'e conqueror of the Wahabees; but it was not destmed to be car.

""V^eVo'^ptt of explormg the mite NUe induced CaUliaud to apply
tolmaifpasha to accompany hisbrother Ibrahim, but the pashaobjected

to t on account of his desire that the traveler should examme the gold
to It «» ~" J ^^^ to i„auce him to remain, he offered hmi

rr ortrar^d A- ■«> W- >.« .«.,. —<• *« -^^^^^^^at

added that he also intended to make a campmgn on the White NUe, at
a later day Relying on these promises, CaiUiaud decided to followhim.
On the 5th of December, Ibrahim Pasha set out for the country of the
Dto "?th an army of fifteen hmidred men. The expedition of Ismail
watt?'coi ist of fiftJen hundred ; as many more, the half of whom were
n were left at Sonnaar. CaiUiaud was greatly embarrassed by the want
of slnants. Some of the inhabitants of the country had promised to go
with hCbut on the day of his departure, they were not to be fovmd
In ad2n to this, the man who had charge of his camels, ran off with
Lr oflhem, but the loss was made good by Ismail Pasha, who presented

'""l^e palhtlet^^^^^^^^ on the 6th, and commenced his march up the
western bank of the Blue NUe. The country became more rough and
Tvaras they approached the mountains of Fazogl, the vegetation was
m^rfdeLtYnd'the journey more diflicult and fatiguing On the after-
Ton of th; 11th, "while we were traversing a district covered with
Trees partly dead, and thickets of vines and brush-wood half dry a con-
flagraSn broke ;ut, spreading terror through the ^^-^^f ^.-^^^^J^^^^^^^
of which a strong north-west wmd drove the flames. Nothing was heard
burconfused crifs; the disorder was at its height; the dispute was, who
luld save himself most speedily ; the frightened c^^^^ - ^lY^
carding the voices of their masters, broke into a gallop, cast off their
fLslnd often blindly ran to seek their own destruction. It was not
^^hout trembling that I «*w myself obUged to pass this gulf^f A^^
which soon extended over a distance of half a league. Our first idea
w trhenaL

Tat it was entirely the fimlt of some stragglers of tl-J^^^^X
li<rhtin2 their pipes, . aused themselves with ignitmg the trees. Ihe
S fenrwer'e r;peated from day to day, and the P-^a did not d„e
to punish the culprits, on account of the ^-'^--^^ rj%^l'^^ ^^^
There had been no distribution of grain smce leavmg Sennaar, and m
^r to l^eep themselves_ W .arvin^^^^^

lagc.

to keen themselves irora »i,aiv«"B, "»*' " ., -,

» Suhe villages which we saw," says CaiUiaud, " were mercilessly

PIA,

as to explore the
vefy sources. If

would enter the
being reinforced,
d return to Egypt
avenger of Mocca,
estinod to be car-

Cailliaud to apply
the pasha objected

examine the gold
in, he offered him
the Blue Nile, and
the White Nile, at
idcd to follow him.
the country of the
xpedition of Ismail
half of whom were
rassed by the want
lad promised to go
re not to be found,
amels, ran off with
isha, who presented

id his march up the
ne more rough and

the vegetation was
iiing. On the after-
strict • covered with
ood half dry, a con-
my, across the track

Nothing was heard
;he dispute was, who
;amels no longer re-
;allop, cast off their
uction. It was not
ss this gulf of fire,
rue. Our first idea
I fire, but we learned
r the army, who, in
ng the trees." The
3 pasha did not dare
spirit of the troops,
ing Sennaar, and in
•8 were driven to pil-
i, " were mercilessly

THEY ENTEB THE NEGRO COUNTRY.

271

plundered by the troops, and I was obliged to follow their cxanijjle in
order to obtain a little dourra, some fowls, the fruit of the baobub, and
the fresh pods of the tamarind — the only things loll behind by the uihab-
itants, who fled at our approach."

On the 17th, after passing throug|^a region abounding in wild ele-
phants and giraffes, they reached a village called El-Kerubeen, a dfpi'iid-
ency of Sennaar, situated at the commencement of the mountains. The
village is bnilt in a group of granite hills, from six to eight hundred fi-ct
high. Ibrahim Pasha was at this time encamped four or five mili's fur-
ther to the west. Cailliaud, who went to visit him, found him laboring
under an attack of dysentery, and verj- much dejected. He said to his
brother Ismail, who was present, that if he did not find himself better in
a few days, ho would return to Egyjit. " Thus Avas dissipated, as I could
plainly see, the splendid plan of u a oyage up the White Nile, and into
the interior of Africa ! In the evening I returned to my tent with I*rinco
Ismail, who obliged me to dine with hun every day. I Avas the only
stranger who had accompanied him in his last campaign ; I only could
write and make knou'n his exploits in Europe ; and I could see that he
was as ambitious of glory, as are the Turks ordinarily." On the same
day, envoys arrived from the King of Fazogl, to announce that he was
ready to give in his submission. There then only remained the Pagan
negroes to be conquered, whom the pasha designed to capture and cany
off for slaves.

As the army approached Fazogl the country became more densely
wooded, and it was a matter of great difliculty to pass through the
forests of thorny mimosas. After two days they reached a group of
mountains called Agady, on the summit of one of which was a negro
village. Many of the inhabitants had fled during the night ; the re-
mainder were called upon to pay tribute, which they refused, saying the
pasha might do what he pleased with them. The troops Avere eager for
an attack, and the order Avas at once given. Three hundred men
mounted to the village, which became the scene of fire, slaughter, and
pillage. One hundred and seventy negroes, mostly women, Avere taken
prisoners, and conducted to the rear of the pasha's tents, with yokes
of wood around their necks.

On the 22d, after a difficult march of eight hours through the woods,
the expedition reached the mountains of Kilgou, where there was an-
other large negro village. " Ismail ordered the advance-guard to march
rapidly upon the place, surprise the inhabitants, and prevent their flight.
This order was promptly executed ; the rocks were scaled, and a large
body of negroes surrounded, who, nevertheless, defended themselves
Awith unexpected obstinacy. The troops had spread their lines in climb-
ing the hill, in order to surround as large a number as possible. But
soon the difficulties of the ground broke up the order of march ; they
could not keep their footing on the masses of slippery granite which
barred their path. Finally, taking off their slippers, which they stuck

■■i.if.ija~ii lltT*"^

\0m~ ■'^iwiT" -■■'

272 CAILLIAUD'S JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

into their belts, they rcachcHl the first hi.ts, wl.orc they found several
womo , ho refused to follow them, and were killed. The men, on the
umu^it of tho mountams, rolled down masses of stone and ogs ot wood
u,on their enemies. They dashed hither m>d thither with surpnsmg
agility. The Turks compared them to >nrds, for the.r feet hardly seemed
to%olhtho surface of the rocks. Many of them -rlcd their lances
fro,n behind trees or masses of granite, and pierced the first tro«^^^^^^^
ascended the hill. Meanwhile the pasha, tired of the prolonged re-
sistunce, mounted the hUl with seven of his Mamelukes ^^f^^^^^^
banians but soon had reason to repent his unprudencc: the negroes
Bi2e k sallied out of their retreat, and hurled their lances killing one
of the Mamelukes. After firing a volley into them, the pasha re urned
to the camp. By this time the negroes had cast away all their lances
and sought safety in flight. One fourth of them escaped, and the rest
were taken. In this aifair the pasha had twelve men billed and lorty
wounded ; of the negroes one hundred and eighty were killed, and five
Wred^d seventy-five taken prisoners. The latter had crisp ha.r
thick lips, and prominent cheek-bones; a few of them had flat noses.
S n'n 'wore o'nly a piece of goat-skin tied ai^und the louis -d the
women a piece of cotton which reached to the ^^^'<^ ^'^^J^^^^
There were none among them who understood Ai^bic. The pasha al-
lowed me to take two who appeared intelligent and good-tempered, and
an Arab of Pazogl, who knew a Uttle of their language, served me as

""* Afte^arest of three days, the armyresumed its march. On the 26th
it entered a narrow, rocky vaUey, on either «i*i« ^^.^^'^J^^
deserted villages. The pasha determmed to put himself at the head
of the expedition, and asked Cailliaud to accompany h'™- J^i;;«;^
excused himself on account of his fatigued dromedary but the offer of a
horse obliged him to accept, and having armed himself to the teeth, he
followed the commander. "We entered a little valley mclosed between
two chains of high hiUs and overlooked by a mountam, which we pr^
posed to scale, in the hope of surprising the negroes on the oppoate
Bide. It was Necessary to break a passage through the «^7««« «f
the nebbuks, the thorny branches of which tore our clothes mto shreds.
Sr^asha had recommended me, for my own safety to keep elo^ to
him, but this benevolent consideration nearly proved fatal to me Alter
two hours' march, we had made two thirds of the niountam which was
the aim of our expedition. We advanced up a rough and uneven patl^
with the brink of a precipice on the right, while the peaked ««^^* «f
the mountain arose on the left. A part of the troops were m advan^ ,
the pasha followed them, having behind him one of "^e^; ^^^^^^
ried his narghileh ; I came immediately after so near that the he^o^
my horse touched his, and the Mamelukes after me, for the path w^ bo
narrow that we were obliged to march m single file A^^ ^ «°^*
rock, three feet in diameter, fell between Ismail and myself, burhng

i.-^-^l^^'' * - ■

aisn^i-rtar#^;

OPIA.

hoy found several

The men, on the

and logs of wood

er with surprising

feet hardly seemed

lurlcd their lances

he first troofo who

the prolonged re-

kes and some Al-

once : the negroes

lances, killing one

le pasha returned

ay all their lances,

aped, and the rest

;n killed and forty

ere killed, and five

ter had crisp hair,

lem had flat noses.

the loins, and the

iddle of the thigh.

bic. The pasha al-

good-tempered, and

uage, served me as

march. On the 26th
f which were many
limself at the head
ly him. The latter
•y, but the offer of a
self to the teeth, he
ley inclosed between
itain, which we pro-
oes on the opposite
h the mimosas and

clothes into shreds.
ty, to keep close to
I fatal to me. After
nountdn which was
;h and uneven path,
! peaked summit of
ps were in advance ;
his slaves, who car-
ir that the head of

for the path was so
file. All at once a
and myself, hurling

A NIGHT ATTACK.

278

down the precipice the slave who separated us. Without doubt the
blow was intended for the pasha, who was distinguished by his rich
costume ; but one step more, and I should have received it ! Ismail
turned immediately, and I could perceive his fright in the pallor of his
countenance ; I confess, however, that he could justly have made the
same remark concerning me. We dismounted, in order to avoid more
readily the 'rocks and pieces of wood which the negroes continued to
hurl down upon us. We descended the mountain much faster than we
went up, and, having reached a level spot, the pasha played a piece of
cannon against the summit ; but the balls, passing beyond, abnost reached
the troops commanded by his physician, who returned in great fear,
without having achieved any more valorous exploits than ourselves."

During the next day's march, they saw several enormous baobab'
trees, one of which measured sixty-two feet in circumference. The
country became more open, but a new range of mountains appeared in
the south. Although he knew that his army was surrounded by a body
of five or six thousand negroes, the pasha neglected to place any 8en<
tinels around his camp that night. Favored by this carelessness, the
negroes cautiously descended from the mountains : the thickness of the
foliage, the darkness of the night, and the color of their skins, even,
contnbuted to conceal their march. They were but a pistol-shot dis-
tant, when, o^tdng no doubt to a custom of theirs on attacking, they
began to utter loud cries, hurling their lances at the same time. The
alarm and confusion was general ; no one knew from which side the
attack came. The soldiers, hurrying out of their tents, supposed that
the negroes were already masters of the camp. A few discharges of
musketry sufficed to drive off the foes, and the tumult finally ceased.
During the confusion several cannon were fired, but so much at random,
that one of the balls passed over Cailliaud's tent, and another struck the
earth about fifteen paces off

Seeing that little was to be accomplished against the negroes, in a
country where every mountain or forest was an almost impregnable fort-
ress, the pasha determined to return to Ealgou, and take the direct
route to FazogL The way was very laborious and difficult ; there was
no water, except some pools which were corrupt and stagnant ; deep,
rocky ravines crossed the path, and the army was beginning to suffer
greatly from thirst, when a little water was obtained by digging in the
dry bed of the torrent. " Having passed these dry water-courses," says
Cidlliaud, " we made our painful way through a dense thicket of gigantic
bushes, acacias and nebbuks ; our faces, our hands and feet, were scarred
with severe and inevitable scratches, and oiur clothes were hanging in
shreds. At last, toward evening, we found ourselves all at once on the
banks of the Nile. The sight of the water restored quiet to the troops,
who were becoming discontented and mutinous."

On the 1st of January, 1822, they set out for the great mountain of
Fazogl, which they saw in the south-east. The country was covered

OAILLIAUD'8 JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

with thick woods; hero ami there grew tamarinds and doum-palms of
much grander proportions than those of Egypt "Th.s day was for us
^day of miHforlune. At first I abandoned one of my camels, which died
L the route; toward evening two oti.ers fell -\« --•-' j\'^^^^^^^
necessary to unload and reload, which consumed much time besdes
ol>H.Mn/me to throw away a part of our dourra. Meanwhile the mght
came, and wo were enveloped in gloom. Wo ceased to hear the foot-
steps of some stragglers who hurried on to reach Fa.ogl ; the whole
army was in advan^, and we sought vainly, in the obscurity, to find a
trTce of its path. M. Letorzec and myself were grealy fatigued and
deressed. I went to take a drink of water, but, alas! the water-skm
h been burst by the fall of the camel ^'".7" ^IrkeTbv
pass the night in the woods, exposed to the danger of being attacked by
wi d bea tf or by the negroes, in case we should light a fire to frighten
rwaytrLmer' Such^as ;ur perplexity, .vhen our Arab said to me
that ho perceived a light in the distance; we looked bu discovered
nothing but finally it increased and we saw it also. This sight revived
our courag^^^^ Wo hastened toward it, but cautiously not knowing
whether we^ero approaching friends or foes. I sent the Arab in ad-
vance to miko a stealthy inspection, and in a short time we were
rceably startled by his cries of joy. At the same time ^o^^l ^o^^'^
?ost like ourselves, approached, begging us for water A smgle bott^
of wine which T had always preserved in case of misfortune could not
ho better employed • we drank the half of it, and then resigned ourselves
to paltheTght^ h our companions in misfortune. ITiis was the time
vhrn M. L torzec was seized with a fever, which lasted several months
Earlv the next morning we set out to rejoin the army, which we found
TtL hours' distance' on the banks of the Nile, near the vUhge of
Vara a dependency of Fazogl, where we remained several days.'

On approaching the village of Fazogl, the pasha was received by Ha^
san, king 'of the iLvince, ^ho went in advance, accompanied by his
Sisters mounted on fine Aby .inian horses, and surrounded by a
lad of a hundred men, armed with lances. They met Ismail at five
wues' distance ; the king and his ministers dismounted -h- fey per-
ceW d him, advanced on foot and prostrated themselves before him.
hTs anp" entedhimwith two splendid horses ; the guards, approach-
inrranJcd themselves in a Ime, knelt and reversed the pomts of their
laLs in token of submission. In recognition of his receptmn Ismail
prSdLtroopsfrompassingthroughthevill^^^^^
miffht not be devastated ; for it was not always m his power to Preserve
Zd order On the 5th, the expedition advanced to a village caUed
Tourmoga Having learned that King Hassan was there CaUliaud p^d
hra vlt " I entered into an ordinary hut, where I found the lang
SnVcro s-legged upon a mat. He wa. a handsome man, young and
of an areeabfe figure. His costume was similar to that of the kuigs
ff T.rlZt^ilr.r.^^-^ with surprise that his sandab tenmnated m

iillfciil l""^'""!"

iH'rid-iJ^iiWIii

■^^£l^««^iMM

^feM

»*i,T r<

I A.

doum-palms of

9 day was for u»
nols, which difid
vino, and it was

time, besides
nwhile the night

10 hear t!ic foot-
;ogl ; the whole
scurity, to find a
tly fatigued and

tliu water-skin
ow that wo must
icing attacked by
a firo to frighten
Arab said to mo
d but discovered
'his sight revived
ily, not knowing
; the Arab in ad-
t time wo were
several soldiers,

A single bottle
fortune, could not
resigned ourselves
This was the time
jd several months.
yr, which Ave found
!ar the village of
/^eral days."
8 received by Has-
companicd by his
surrounded by a
met Ismail at five
ted when they per-
ielves before him.
guards, approach-
the points of their
s reception, Ismail
, in order that they
power to preserve
to a village called
lere, Cailliaud pjud
3 1 found the king
le man, young, and
that of the kings
idals terminated in

THE FIOIIT OP AOARO.

275

curved points, exactly similar to those roprcscntod in the Tombs of tho
Kings, at Thebes. On his knees he hold his siibcr, in which scorned to
consist all his magnificence. The scabbard and hilt wore of silver ;
Bovoral heavy silver rings adorned his fingers, and around his nock ho
wore little leather cases containing verses from tho Koran."

The ammint of tribute to be paid by FazogI, was at last fixed at one
thousand ounces of gold and two thousand male slaves, and the piisha
set out on the 12th for tho gold mines of Kasan, lying two or three
days' journey to tho south-west. To Cailliaud, whoso camels wore
nearly exhausted, ho gave a horse, and to M. Letorzec a mule, which
enabled them to travel with more case and rapidity. On approaching
the mountain of Agaro, tho road Avas crossed by a precipitous gulley
thirty-five feet deep, in passing which many of tho camels wero hurled
to the bottom with their riders, and perished. Tho next forenoon tho
army reached the foot of tho mountain, and encamped. Tho negroes,
full of audacity, on account of thoir number and the strength of their
position, had sent word to Ismail, before he left FazogI, that if he camo
into their mountains, they would break his legs. But, at tho sight of
the army, they began to change their tune ; they sent word to him that
they would submit and pay tribute to him. Ismail entered into nego-
tiations with them, in order to gain time until his troops had surrounded
the mountain. When tho negroes perceived this design, they took to
flight. The signal was then given for attack, and after a short struggle
the soldiers reached the top of the mountain, where they at once set firo
to the village. The inhabitants numbered about three thousand, of
whom only about a hundred, mostly women, wero taken, at the cost of
fifteen lives.

The pasha then determined to make another assault on tho eastern
part of the mountain, with eight hundred men and a piece of cannon.
" This time," says Cailliaud, " I was tempted to accompany him. Tho
troops dispersed themselves over the mountain in the hope of blockading
the village, and arrived there without trouble or resistance : it was de-
serted. In an instant the torch was applied, and five hundred huts wero
reduced to ashes. Old persons of both sexes, whom age or infirmity
prevented from flying, wero buried under their blazing roofs ; others
were conducted to the pasha, who, not knowing what to do with them,
allowed them freely to behold the horrible lesson which a more civilized
people than they came to teach them." On the 1 6th the army crossed
a river called the Toumat, continuing its course in a south-western direc-
tion, and reached the mountains of Khasinkaro, where a deputation of
negroes came to meet the pasha. They said that if he would continue
his journey without doing them any harm, they would be able to pay
him tribute on his return. He placed little faith in their promises, but
as he was impatient to reach the gold mines, agreed to what they
asked.

Following the coarse of the Toumat, which furnished an ample sup-

•

276

CAILLIAUD'S JOURNEY TO KTIIIOPIA.

ply of water, the expedition Bkirtcd the mountain of Kosan on tho 18th.
Tlio inhabitants of a largo village on itH summit protniscd the pasha livo
hundred male Hlavcs, aa their tribute. Soon afterward they entered the
territory of (aamamyl, and discovered in tho west a long chain of mount-
ains called Obeh. The road here woa contumally crossed by small
affluents of the Toumat, which had worn for themselves deep beds in
the soil, making the traveling more difflcult than any which the army
hod yet encountered. " The passage of these ravines," says Cailliaud,
" was fatal to the camels ; the route was strewn with abandoned anunals
and baggage. Tho pasha himself liad but a single good horse remain-
ing. We were constrained to leave behind us a camel, part of its load,
and tho mule of M. Lotorzco, who then mounted the dromedary which
carried my papers and drawings ; but the poor animal, exhausted with
fatigue, lay down. In vain did we employ every means to raise it, avo
could not succeed. That part of the forest in which we were was full
of small dead trees and dry brush-wood, which was imprudently set on
fire by tho soldiers at a short distance from us. Soon the flames were
ready to envelop uq ; I resolved to lose the dromedary, but I wished
to savo its load, which contained all my papers. We had nothing at
hand to cut the cords and straps which bound it, and in our anxiety
made useless efforts to untie them. All was over : tho froit of so much
trouble and peril was about to become the prey of tho flames. They
cried out to us to save ourselves, but I could not resign myself to sacri-
fice my treasures. Already the heat scorched us, we felt the approach
of the fire ; we must leave — ^I uttered a cry of despdr. Meanwhile our
camel, feeling the flames, rose, darted forward a little distance, and fell
again. We ran to it, tore away the precious load, and placed it on my
horse, which I drew by the bridle, while M. Letorzeo urged it in tho
rear. But the wind drove the flames toward us ; they advanced nearer
and nearer ; we were almost overcome with terror, when, oh, joy ! the
trees became scattering, and we issued from tho wood."

Having escaped this danger, the travelers found that they had lost
their way, and were in almost equal peril, until they encountered some
straggling soldiers. On reaching the camp Cailliaud found that his bag-
gage had not arrived, and was indebted to the charity of some soldiers
for a cake of dourra, aflier eating which he slept upon his laddle-cloth,
in the open sur. The place where they were encamped was called Ab-
koulgui, situated, according to Cailliaud's observations, in latitude 10°
38' north. " The village consists of a few scattered habitations, on an
elevated slope, whence the view extends over several other hills more
or less wooded, and covered with isolated habitations. In the south
one sees the distant mountain of Mafis, and in the west the long ridge
of Obeh. Abkoulgui appears to be the central point of the province of
Gamamyl, which is two days' journey in extent. It is watered by the
Toumat and a great quantity of its tributary torrents ; the soil is a clay»
fall of sand and pebbles, and showing everywhere traces of oxyd of iron.

lA.

an on tho 18th.
1 the pasha live
ley entered tho
chain of mount-
ossed by small
>8 deep beds in
vhich tho army

says Cailliaud,
indoned animals
horse remain-
part of its load,
romedary which

exhausted with

ns to raise it, avo

we were was full

iprudently set on

the flames were

iry, but I wished

e had nothing at

id in our anxiety

fi-oit of so much

ho flames. They

a myself to sacri-

felt the approach

Meanwhile our

distance, and fell

I placed it on my

I urged it in tho

J advanced nearer

hen, oh, joy ! the

i»

that they had lost
encountered some
bund that his bag-
y of some soldiers
\ his laddle-cloth,
ed was called Ab-
is, in latitude 10°
habitations, on an
[ other hills more
OS. In the south
rest the long ridge
of the province of
is watered by the
; the soil is a clay»
sea of oxyd of iron.

EXPERIMKNT8 IN GOLD WASIIINO.

277

Tliifl province is reputed to bo tho richest in anriforoun substances,
where the negroes havo been most successful in collecting gold dust."

Tho pasha, impatient to test tho valuo of the gold washings, sent
Cnilliaud tho next day to examine tlioin. Tho negroes lind sunk pits
eighteen or twenty feet deep, in tho bed and banks of the river, and
washed oirt in wooden bowls the earth which they took from those
places. Tho traveler succeeded in getting a few very small grains of
fine gold, after washing for some time, but tho result was very unsatis-
factory to tho pasha, who next day sent him to another gold-washing,
with several miners and an escort of thirty men. Hero he opened new
pits, and carefully washed tho earth, but the gold was found in quanti-
ties so small OS scarcely to repay tho labor. Finally, in the hope that
tho natives know of richer deposits, Ismail sent out an expedition to take
some prisoners. Among those captured w as a chief, who informed him
that during tho rainy season, tho floods sometimes washed down pieces
of gold as largo as beans, but that at the present time, it was only found
in dust and small grains. Ho indicated several of the most favorable
places in the country, and oifered to conduct the pasha to them. Two
or three excursions were made in diflcrent directions, under a strong
armed escort, and tho washing carried on vigorously for several days,
but with no hotter success. The pasha at last became disgusted, and
gave up tho search entirely.

Meanwhile, his situation was becoming insecure. Tho Gallas, who
have overrun all tho south-western part of Abyssinia, and who are also
enemies of the wild negro tribes, were only five or six hours distant from
him ; the negroes were collecting for a new assault, and he received
word that a convoy of powder and other munitions had been taken by
the natives near Fazogl, and an escort of twenty-five men killed. How-
ever, being re-enforced by a company of four hundred men who arrived
from Sonna&r, he continued to send out parties against tho neighboring
villages for the purpose of increasing his harvest of slaves. All this
region has the general name of Bertat ; the inhabitants are of pure negro
blood, and wholly savage in their character and habits. Their only
religion consists in the worship of large trees, especially the baobab, un-
der which they sometimes sacrifice sheep or goats. Their clothing is
scarcely sufficient for description ; their bodies are long, and nimble
rather than athletic, and they are not wanting in courage, as the Egyp-
tian troops had already learned.

" Seventeen days," says Cailliaud, " had elapsed since our arrival at
Gamamyl. I had undergone many fatigues, and yet my health had
improved. Every day I mounted my horse to go on the hunt of auri-
ferous sands. We multiplied our trials, weighed the earth, calculated
the proportion of the quantity of gold, but never attained any result
which could give us the least hope. Those mountains of gold upon
which the pasha counted so strongly, vanished like smoke : the thirty
thousand negroes, which he intended to capture diminished to a few

wmm

278

OAILLIAUD'S JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA,

hundreds. It became necessary to try our luck elsewhere, and ho gave
the order for our departure. From the want of camels I was obliged to
leave behind a fine collection of minerals which I had gathered together.
M. Letorzec, weighed down by fever, remained in bed during our stay ;
his strength visibly diminished, day after day. When he learned that
wc were about to set out for the purpose of penetrating still further
southward, his chagrin increased his illness, and lie was haunted by the
idea that he M-ould never see his native country again. We set out
on the 5th of February. Most of the soldiers could not restrain their
surprise at seeing that we were still marching to the south. The Shy-
gheeans had made a mannikin resembling a man and dressed in the
fashion of their tribe ; it is an established custom with them to inter a
similar mannikin at the extreme limit which their hostile expeditions
reach, in an enemy's country. Some of them walked in order to allow
this ridiculous figure to ride on a camel; at which the Turks were
greatly amused."

The army encamped near the village of Singuo, which was inhabited
by Mussulmen. Moussa, their chief, had sent word that he was disposed
to pay a tribute, in consequence of which, the pasha prevented his troops
from approaching the village, fearing they might commit deprediJtions.
Cailliaud visited the place next morning, and found it to consist of five
or six hundred houses, scattered along a ridge three or four miles in
length. It was almost deserted, and the traveler did not judge it pru-
dent to remain long. The village was sacked by the troops the same
day. On the afternoon of the 7th, while the greater part of the Turkish
soldiers Averc asleep, according to their custom, a body of about a thou-
sand negroes descended from the lulls to the westward. They were
finally perceived, and the pasha and his artillery-men aroused ; but before
the guns could be brought to bear on them, they had advanced near
enough to kill some straggling soldiers. The fear of the cannon caused
them to retreat precipitately to the mountains. Five hundred men were
sent after them, but not being able to reach them, burned their houses.
The negroes renewed their attacks next day, and succeeded in carrying
off eight of the pasha's finest horses. One of the savage chiefs who had
been taken prisoner, was offered his liberty if he would obtain the ani-
mals and restore them ; this he swore by the Koran to do, and M'as ac-
cordingly liberated, but neither chief nor horses were ever seen again.

The situation of the Egyptian army Avas now very critical. There
was a general league among all the negro tribes, to repel the invaders.
The ammunition was almost exhausted ; provisions were rapidly dimin-
ishing, and the latest news from Sennaar stated that the people, p' 'suaded
that the pasha and his troops would perish among the mountains, were
already beginning to foment a rebellion against the Egyptian rule. The
pasha at last made up his mind to submit to circumstances, and order a
retreat. "The next day, February 11th," says Cailliaud, "was fixed
upon for our departure. Before quitting Singue, I wished to overlook

PIA.

lerc, and ho gave
1 1 was obliged to
athcred togctlier.

during our stay ;
I he leaincd that
iting still further
IS haunti-d by the
lin. Wc set out

not restrain their
south. The Shy-
id dressed in the
th them to inter a
lostile expeditions
[ in order to allow
li the Turks were

lich was inhabited
at he was disposed
reventcd his troops
nmit depredations,
it to consist of five
ee or four miles in
d not judge it pru-
le troops the same
part of the Turkish
3y of about a thou-
,ward. They Avero
iroused ; but before
had advanced near
■ the cannon caused
3 hundred men were
urncd their houses,
icceeded in carrying
vage chiefs who had
)uld obtain the ani-
ti to do, and Avas ac-
e ever seen again,
rery critical. There

repel the invaders,
were rapidly dimin-

he people, p' -suaded
the mountains, were
Egyptian rule. The
[Stances, and order a
!ailliaud, "Avas fixed

1 wished to overlook

RETREAT TO SENNAAR.

279

at least, as far as my vision might reach, the regions Avhich an inexorable
lato prevented us from traversing. I climbed a hill, and there, armed
Avith a telescope, I sought to discover the regions Avhere my imagination
had placed the source of the White Nile. Vain effort ! I only convinced
myself anew how limited is the space Avhich the human eye can embrace.
Ceasing to.gazo at a horizon Avhich exhibited only vapory and confused
outlities, I carved deeply on the rock the name of France, and transported
myself, in chought, to that beloved land. The army sloAvly debouched
from the labyrinth of hills Avhich surrounds Singue, cutting for itself a
path to the Avest of thut Avhich it had followed in coming. We Avere
still surrounded Avith enemies, and observed an order of march more
regular than usual. This retrograde movement inspired all the men Avith
new energy ; even the animals seemed to understand that Ave Avero re-
turning, and marched more firmly and rapidly. Joy Avas painted on the
faces of all ; the Bedouins and the Albanians manifested theirs by songs;
the remembrance of past hardships Avivs banished from memory, and all
hopes were turned toward Egypt."

After a toilsome march of four days, the army reached Adassy, on
the Nile, The troops rushed to the bank, and precipitated themselves
into the river, each anxious to bo the first to drink of its waters. M.
Letorzoc was in such a Aveak state, that CaiUiaud applied to the pasha for
a boat, in order to descend the river to Sennaar, and the latter was so
obliging as to give up his own barque, as he intended returning by land
with the army, lie sent Avith the travelers a courier to his father, who
was intrusted Anth two quintals of the auriferous sands of Gamamyl, and
a report on the gold region, containing the results of the experiments
made under Cailliaud's direction. The barque left for Sennaar on the
18th. " For a long time we had not enjoyed so much ease and tranquil-
lity. We experienced an inexpressible feeling of pleasure in sleeping,
Avithout being suddenly called up by the drum-beat ; in having to suffer
no more from hunger, thirst, Avatchfulness, alarms ; in being relieved from
tending, feeding, loading and unloading camels; and, instead of running
the risk of being buried in torrents, torn by the thorns of mimosas and
nebbuks, or sAvept by the flames of burning forests, in lying peacefully
upon a thick carpet in the shade, all day long. All, this new Ufe was too
luxurious — it was the height of felicity !"

In passing the cataract of El-Kerr, the boat struck a rock and damaged
the bow, occasioning a dangerous leak. It Avas on the point of sinking ;
all Avas terror and confusion ; Cailliaud seized his packages of notes and
drawings, and leaped upon a rock, and for awhile a complete shipAvreck
threatened them. Finally, however, the leak was found and stopped, the
boat temporarily calked, and the travelers continued their voyage to
Sennaar, Avhere they arrived without further mishap, on the 20th. Cail-
liaud immediately went to his old residence, where he Avas received Avith
great joy by his former hosts. In delivering to Divan Effendi, the com-
mander of the garrison, the letters of Ismail Pasha, he learned that the

280 CAILLIAUD'S JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

latter had ordered that he should be furnished with camels, and with the
fundi necessary for the expenses of his journey to Egypt As he ex-
ttl^TZL some money in Dongola, he took but Aye thousand
Sters ($250). As there were symptoms of insurrections m the prov-
Fres Tf Halfay and Shendy, he determined to make no stay m Senna^r
but to push forward and examine the reported ruins of Me«)wur.t and
NaV^ before the country should become insecure. He had desired to
fxXe Kordofun, but the state of M. Letorzec's health was such that
he codd not have supported the journey. This circumstance, which
seemed so unfortunate at the time, was in reality the salvation of the
Sers Had they remained longer they would probably have become
Involved in the same fete which overtook IsmaU Pasha and a great part

'''caSdleftSenna^ron the 1st of March, and reached Halfay on
the 9th M. Letorzec was so ill that he was obliged to travel m a li^
ter,Sened on the back of a camel. After resting a ^ay they resumed
the route to Shendy, following the eastern bank of the Nile. On the
14th 'tys^^^^^^^^^^ "after having traveled for an hour oyer a plain
Ihinly covered with smaU acacias, I reached some rums which had at-
tSd my attention at a distance ; I recognized the site ot an anc ent
cUy by ^he enormous mounds of burned brick, several of which still in-
Sled the outlines of buUdings. The place is known by the name of
Sa. The most remarkable ruins are those of a typhomum, c- temple
to fhe Evil Principle, which is about eighty-seven feet m length." On
themhThey passed a great many vUlages^announcing their ^proach
to Shendy, where they arrived at noon. They immediately visited the
TurkUh governor, who procured them a house, as they intended remam-
^ng some dlys. M. Linant, who had returned from Sennaar with Ibrahmi

^"l^XrsSt^Tout on his return to Egypt, CaiUiand desired Jo visit
the ruins of Naga near Djebel Ardan, and those of Mesowurat. His
compadon although convalescent, was T.ot able to support the fat^e.
U wCre'rl.^ ^eed that he should leave for Egypt ™ a few days
and ioumey by short stages untU overtaken by Cailliaud. The latter
1 outTn the 22d, accompanied by two guides and two servants.
AfterTour^eying aU day down a long vaUey extending to the south he
^ald the extfemity of the mountains, where the ru- w-e s^djo
exist " It was already nighV he writes, " and my gmdes did not con-
rider it prudlt to go further, for fear of meeting with the Shukorees,
who werlin open revolt. We unloaded our camels cautiously, and lay
lown under the acacias which surrounded us. Wrapped m a qudt, wrth
ly head on a bundle of papers, I slept soundly, my Arabs watching by
TuLs through the night I awoke at dawn, and finding every thmg
qTe , aSed through the trees toward the ruins, which I discov^ed
r^ at hand. The fi™t object which I saw was a temple covered with
Eg;iit^"cVre«. with its pylon, and a portico of Greco-Roman ar-

l ■ : ' —

OPIA.

mela, and with the
gypt. As he ex-
}ut five thousand
tions in the prov-
o stay in Senna&r,
jf Mesowurat and
le had desired to
alth was such that
rcumstance, which
salvation of the
l)ably have become
a and a great part

reached Halfay on

to travel in a lit-

1 day they resumed

le Nile. " On the

hour over a plain

uins which had at-

site of an ancient

•al of which still in-

wn by the name of

phonium, c temple

•et in length." On

cing their approach

lediately visited the

icy intended remain-

enna4r with Ibrahim

aud desired to visit
of Mesowurat. His
support the £itigue.
Egypt in a few days,
ailliaud. The latter
) and two servants,
ing to the south, he
i ruins were said to
' guides did not con-
with the Shukorees,
8 cautiously, and lay
ipped in a quilt, with
Arabs watching by
finding overy thing
which I discovered
;emple covered with
of Qreco-Roman ar-

RUINS AT NAGA AND MESOWURAT.

281

chiteoturc, with Egyptian ornaments. Still further wore the mins of
another grand temple, with finely sculptured decorations, and preceded
by an avenue of sphinxes ; the substructions of several other edifices,
and those of a public tank. I recognized here the ruins of an ancient
city, the importance of which was attested by the nature of the remains
wUch still existed, and by the extent of territory which they occupied.
♦ ♦ ♦ My guides arrived, and in order that we might not be seen
by the rebel Arabs, wo establiahcil our residence in the western temple.
I then began, assisted by my two servants, to make a more careful ex-
amination of the monuments."

Cailliaud found the largest temple to be two hundred and seventy
feet in length, including the pylon and avenue of sphinxes. "The
sculptures of the interior are almost entirely destroyed. This state of
degradation is owing, I suppose, to the insignificant height of the walls
and the action of the tropical rains. The figures are without the indi-
cation of a beard, so common in the sculptures of the Egyptian temples.
The peculiar character of their costume, and the embonpoint of their
figures, give evidence of a people quite distinct fVom the ancient Egyp-
tians, but who, nevertheless, appear to have had the same symbolic
writing and the same religious ideas." For three days and a half the
traveler remained among these ruins, sketching by day and writing by
night ; but his supply of water was getting low, and the desire of exam-
ining El-MesQWurat before returning to Shendy, obliged him to leave.

The ruins of Mesowurat are about six hours' travel north-east of
Naga. " I was struck with astonishment," writes Cailliaud, " on ap-
proaching the immense ruins which were exhibited to my gaze. I wan-
dered from court to court, from temple to temple, from one chamber to
another, traversing the corridors and galleries which connect the differ-
ent structures. In this rapid survey I counted eight temples or sanctu-
aries, forty-one chambers, twenty-four courts, and three galleries, all
surrounded with walls, and occupying a space two thousand five hundred
feet in circumference. On returning to my guides, I discovered that we
had only water enough for twenty-four hours. My intention was to
remain here five or six days. I proposed to the men to go to the Nile
and replenish the stock, but was obliged to pay them extravagantly
before they would consent. I mounted on the most elevated waU of
the central edifice, where my eye overlooked all the ruins. There, care-
fully studying the distribution of the different edifices around me, I
became convinced that they formerly belonged to a college. Were these
silent solitudes, I asked myseltj ever animated by the boisterous sports
of youth ? Have these ruins ever resounded with the voices of the pro-
fessors ? Yes, these rude figures of birds and animals traced on the
walls, are the work of childbh hands ; these names, engraved in Ethio-
pian characters, are those of students ; and these others, in Greek, are
without doubt those of strangers, whom the celebrity of the institution
has attracted.

IMMI

282

CAILLIAUD'S JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

" However extensive are those ruins of Mesowurat, nothing had led
me to conjecture that the place could ever have been the site of a city.
I found neither tombs nor any great number of ordinary habitations.
A matter worthy of notice is the small size of the stones employed in
the construction of the temples. Taking into consideration this want of
strength and solidity in the materials, in a cUmate where the rairi falls
for three months in the year, one is led to believe that the ruins which
remain have not, like those of Thebes, resisted the injuries of time dur-
ing a long course of ages. They evidently do not possess a very great
antiquity. The tradition of the country is that the name of El-Mesow-
urat was that of the ancient fakeers who inhabited these vast edifices.
This tradition confirms the opinion that the place was devoted to edu-
cation."

Cailliaud returned to Shcndy on the 2d of April, where he found
that M. Letorzcc had set out for Egypt ten days beforehand. He im-
mc iiately followed, by way of the Pyramids of Meroe and Darner, and
reavhcd El-Mekheyref, in Berber, after a journey of five days. Find-
ing that his companion was still six days in advance, and hurrying
toward Egypt, he halted but a day to procure some provisions from the
governor (the province having been completely stripped by the army),
and then continued his course through the country of Robatat, to Dje-
bel Berkel. Passing Abou-Hammed, at the northern extremity of the
great bend of the Nile, and the long island of Mokrat, he at last over-
took M. Letorzec on the 18th, at a place called El-Kab. The latter was
very much exhausted by the fever, which obliged them to travel with
less rapidity, and they were therefore eight days more in reaching
Mount Berkel.

Cailliaud remained at this place more than two weeks, in order to
make a complete survey of the ruins. " Every morning, at sunrise," he
says, " I repaired to the ruins, and I did not leave them until night. In
the middle of the day, I occupied myself in drawing the interior sculpt-
ures of the typhonium, and the sanctuaries of the pyramids, where I
sought a shelter against the excessive heat, which was often 105° in the
shade. Mount Berkel, isolated on the desert plain, is a mass of sand-
stone about three quarters of a mile in circumference. Its southern side
is a naked precipice two hundred feet high, at the base of which are
the temples, all facing the river. Among the sculptures are two car-
touches, which, according to ChampoUion, contain the name of Tirhaka^
the first king of the Ethiopian dynasty who invaded Egypt, in the eighth
century before the Christian era. The style of the figures and orna-
ments is the pure style of the monuments of Egypt and Lower Nubia.
That part of the temple which is excavated in the mountain, is in a good
state of preservation. East of the typhonium there are many remains
of walls and fragments of columns, extending for some distance. Among
these I discovered two lions of rose-colored granite, of Egyptian style
and beautiful form. ♦ * * Every thing goes to prove that the vast

OPIA.

t, nothing had led
the site of a city,
linary habitations,
onea employed in
ration this want of
lero the rain falls
it the ruins which
juries of time dur-
osscss a very great
ime of El-Mesow-
these vast edifices.
I devoted to edu-

1, where he found
forehand. He im-
>6 and Damer, and
' five days. Find-
ice, and hurrying
•rovisions from the
iped by the army),
r Robatat, to Dje-
1 extremity of the
'at, he at last over-
b. The latter was
em to travel with
more in reaching

vecks, in order to
ing, at sunrise," he
!m until night. In
the interior sculpt-
pyramids, where I
is often 105° in the
is a mass of sand-
Its southern side
! base of which are
Jtures are two car-
e name of Tirhaka,
!gypt, in the eighth
e figures and oma-
ind Lower Nubia,
untain, is in a good
! are many remains
e distance. Among
i, of Egyptian style
rove that the vast

CROSSING THE NUBIAN DESERT.

288

ruins of Mount Bcrkcl are those of the city of Napata, the ancient
capital of Ethiopia, of which the pyramids of Noori were the necro-
polis.

" On the 1 2th of May, my designs and observations being finished,
I made preparations for my departure. Knowing that I should find
no more antiquities on either bank of the Nile, I resolved to cross the
desert in a north-western course, hoping that on the line of communica-
tion between Napata and the island of Argo there might bo something
worthy of notice. Wo laid in a large supply of water, and on the
evening of the 13th struck into the desert. There w - no path across
the arid plains ; the night came, and our guide regulated his march by
the stars. About one o'clock in the morning, not being able to conquer
our drowsiness, we halted and took two hours' rest. At nine o'clock,
the thermometer stood at 108°. We pitched our tent and tried to sleep,
but in vain ; the intense heat obliged us to drink a little water and
bathe our faces every half hour. At one o'clock the temperature inside
of the tent was 117°. The desert was an immense plain of naked sand
and sandstone rock ; some fragments of petrified palms, scattered here
and there, seemed to attest that nature was for ever dead in these fright-
iul solitudes, and tlie rays of a burning sun, reflected from the incan-
descent sands, pierced our eyes with their terrible power."

The next night they stopped to take two hours' sleep, but were so
fatigued that they slept four and a half, which obliged them to travel
until eleven o'clock, at which time the thermometer stood at 118" in the
shade. The Khamseen, or desert-wind, began to blow ; the atmosphere
was charged Avith clouds of sand, and the sun gave but a dim and lurid
light. This place was called by the Arabs the Salamdt (Welcome).
They left in the afternoon and made a march of seventeen hours, during
Avliich they found it almost impossible to keep their seats on the camels,
from drowsiness and fatigue. Owing to tlie great evaporation and the
thirst of the party, the water had diminished so rapidly, that Cailliaud
put the Arabs on allowance, "but this precaution was hardly neces-
sary," says he, " for we were near the Nile. Presently we perceived,
in the distance, a zone of verdure along the horizon, and at seven in
the evening we had completed this inconsiderate journey, for there was
no monument of any kind to repay us for our toil and danger. Wo
found ourselves in the province of Dongola, opposite the island of Argo,
and had thus, at least, shortened our journey six days."

After passing Tombos, where ho found a gninite colossus of Egyptian
workmanship, Cailliaud conceived the idea of visiting the Oasis of Seli-
meh, which lies in the Libyan Desert, throe days' journey west of the
Nile, on the caravan route from Egypt to Dar-Fur. He set out on the
25th of May, accompanied by M. Letorzec and two Arabs. They had
a painful journey of thirty hours over the burning desert, and at last
came in sight of Soliraeh. " Before descending into the valley," says
the traveler, " I gazed eagerly over the beautiful verdure of the palms,

284 OAILLIAUD'8 JOURNEY TO ETHIOPIA.

.Wch contrasted «> ^tHkingl^ with th^ andi^
them; but I sought in vam ^J'* "^ ^ t ecst^Y With ^vL bit-
fore which, the Arabs said I should stand >» J««^^^ ,^.

,en.ess I eursed -7 ^^ ^^^^Tr^r^l^rZ disappointLnt
SS e^n^dtoXat the oasis to rest^^^^^^^^^^
forced marches, reached the Nile ag^ on thj ^let ofMay

He paid another visit to the temple of Soleb, examme k

cant ruL at An^rah -d ^jj- cont«.ue^ -rendCtht Nile,^»
where ho arrived on the 13th ot J«Be vy ^^ ^^^.^^^

week afterward, he met * ^"^f .^^^ ^^^^is ;S to Dongola. "His
was Captain Gordon, «^ ^nghsh tra^ler^ his^^^^^ S^ ^ ^^^^^^

project, like mine, was to ^^^^^^f ^^l^fenter^^^^^ alone ; but
mariner, firmly resolved to "°f 'J^^' P'^^ ^^^^ imprudently, too
he perished Uke so many others. He ^egf, ramer P ^ ^

soon to adopt the hard life and -f ^^^^^^f^^^^^^^^^^ the water
of drawers and a shirt J^f ,^«.t'S^eZ^^^^^^^ W ^i

and swam f 7.'^«'", f .^" ^^X^, accustom himself to support the
nourishing food, m order that he ""S^J ^^'^ widerco. Such devotion
privations and fatigues which ^% "Pf.^^f^^^^^^ m, and died be-

and resolution were not rewarded with success. He leU lu,

fore reaching Senna&r" j^ Letorzec with the baggage

On reaching Asbou^. Cajhaud ^^ ^^ ^^ ^^ j.^^ney with

and collections m a boat to Ihebes, f^^J ^^^ ^ ^^^^], ty

his camels, in order to visit he '7« ?f f ^*^^ ^f^^, a On the 6th
the way. He did not tarry long ^J.^^^J^f^e splendid remains

of July," he writes, "I^-^-f^^^^^dtd^^^^^ again beheld
of Mcdeenet-Abou With ^»^at pleasure ^ ^^^^y, ^^^^j.

those propylons^ those immense porticoes ^-^ «^«" J^^^^ ^loomeh,
five centuries have respected l^J^^^^J^^^^^ ^^ Egypt. Nothing
where I fomid M. Letorzec, quite «f;^f ^^^^^ *^^^^^^ to see us

in my house had ^^^-^^f^^l ^"^ich so mly others had lost
E^r^'T^rs^t^oin^r^^^^^ -obstacle

not previously visited, and was about f ""^ «f J™^^ ruined tem-
, Greit Oasis,for the V-rVO^,ofe..r^^^g^<^^^^^^^^^ ^^ „j ^,^

pie there, when some Arab ^"''g^^^'^T^ya TiS Jgiv e up the under-
carried off all his ready money, ^^^ obhged h'^,*" g^^^ P ^^^
taking. Leaving Thebes, finally wirtih-^^^^^ ^^.^^^ ^^^
Nile rapidly and reached Cairo on thB 2^^; J'^^* ^^^^^ fo^ Mar-

Alexandria on the 30th of October, m a ^"^f ?^ ?"g ^wly escaped
seiUes. The passage was very stormy, and .the brig narrowly es peu

>PIA.

:,ho sands sroond
autiful temple, be-
. With what bit-
tn, from long ex-
lis disappointment
then, returning by
'May.

nined the insignifi-
te to Wadi Haifa,
lending the Nile, a
on board of -which
to Dongola. " His
Ho was a robust
terprise alone ; but
sr imprudently, too
s ; like them, a pair
aged into the water
jrupulously from all
tnselfto support the
•go. Such devotion
I fell ill, and died be-

ic with the baggage
lis own journey with
Edfoo, and Esnch by
places : " On the 6th
■ the splendid remiuns
ration I agsun beheld
nnades, which thirty-
I reached Goomeh,
r of Egypt. Nothing '
sd delighted to see us
many others had lost
ttch port ; no obstacle

September, employing
Memnon's tomb. He
er ruins which he had
on another trip to the
refuUy the ruined tem-
jd his house at night,
I to give up the under-
lion, he descended the
le travelers sailed from
3 brig bound for Mar-
brig narrowly escaped

RETURN TO PRANCE.

286

shipwreck off the Sardinian coast, but on the 1 1th of December anchored
in the harbor of Marseilles. The very next vessel which arrived from
Egypt brought the news of the terrible fivto of Ismail Pasha, his staff,
and fifly of his troops, in Shendy. Mek Nemr, who had sworn venge-
ance against him, persuaded him to attend a festival held in a largo
building some distance from the Egyptian camp, and having surrounded
the place in the night with combustible materials, set fire to it and
burned to death all who were within.

Cailliaud's account of his journey, in four octavo volumes, with an ac-
companying folio containing maps, plans, and engravings, was published
in Paris in 1826. It is from this edition that the present abridgement
has been prepared.

-1

,¥■■■
1^.

-7^1

f^^^^oirrr-rcT^TTTT^T^^

-Maik-

.TAwrrv^ jl^«^

FRAN KLIN'S

OVERLAND JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA.

In the year 1819, the British Government determined to send an ex-
pedition by land from Hudson's Bay to explore the northern coast of
America from the month of the Coppermine River eastward. Captain,
afterward Sir John Franklin, was appointed to the command, with Dr.
John Richardson, and Messrs. George Back and Robert Hood, midship-
men, as associates. Captain Franklin also took with him John Hepburn,
an English seaman ; the rest of the party were to consist of Canadian
hunters and voyageurs. They embarked at Gravesend on the 23d of
May, 1819, on board the Hudson's Bay Company's ship Prince of Wales^
and after touching at Stromness, in the Orkney Islands, where they pro-
cured four skillful boatmen, reached York Factory, in Hudson's Bay, on
the 30th of August, after a very stormy and perilous voyage.

According to the advice of the officers at the Factory, Franklin de-
termined to take the route by Cumberland House, and through the
chain of trading-posts to Great Slave Lake. Having procured a boat,
with a steersman who acted also as guide, the party commenced their
march into the interior on the 9th of September. They made the jour-
ney up Hayes and Hill Rivers very slowly, owing to the strength of the
current, and were finally obliged to leave part of their supplies behind, in
the charge of some of the Company's traders, who promised to forward
them the next spring. On passing the White Fall, Franklin slipped into
the river- and was on the point of being carried over, when he happened
to seize a wiUow branch strong enough to sustain him. They arrived at
Norway House, on Lake Winnipeg, on the 6th of October, after which
they traveled with more rapidity, and reached Cumberland House, on
the Saskatchawan, on the 23d of the same month.

By this time the ice was forming in the rivers, and it was impossible
to proceed further by boats. The whole party remained at Cumberland
House until the middle of January, accustoming themselves to the life
they were thenceforth to lead, and inaking preparations for the journey

"jM ^ANEl'^^^tHHEV TO TU« POLAR SKA.

..Uiou. Th.y have -»"«. '^'™:„J'tri aT« » 8""'' '■"•■« "'

their expense. One ot m su •'.^,,^ ;,,,n,„jiiately bocan to trumpet

during Franklin's residence there. "« ~ his ha.uk

forth his powers, boastu.g, among ^^^"f J^f 'X„ ph^eed hi a conjur-

„,1 feet were tied as securely as P°« '^'«J.J,,^ ;,;?;" ^e aid of two or

i„..ho«se, he wouhl speedily <l'«">g^g; '~ 2, „, ^^s instantly

U."ee familiar spirits -^^^^^ ^rt ^ ^^^^^^ without an aim, |

taken at his word, and, that his cxc mo. j, ^^^^^^^ ^ ^^,^

a capot or great-coat was l«f -« '^ lal form, that is, by sticking I

juving-house having ^'^^^^''^ti^Jthe ton^^^^^^^ hoop at the height
i.r willows in the grcnim^a^^^^^^^^^^ ^ ,,,,r^

of six or eight feet, he ^^a« ^Jiu't f^-^- ' and placed in its nar-

fathoms of rope around h.8 body and cxtremm^^^^^^ A moose-skin
row apartment, not exceedmg wo fi^^^^^^^^ „^

. being then thrown over the *.'-a'«<''/^^'"^ . monotonous tone. ,

1 forti:;vith began to chant a kmd of hymn " ^^^^ .j ^he

The rest of the Indians, who ^^-"'^d^^^^^^^^^^ Z.o of aN^hite man, ;
powers of a devil when put m ^^omif^^^^ with anxiety. In this
Ranged t^-clves aro-^^^^^^^^ atte.ion, which

manner an hour and a halt «'»?''' shaki.ic of the conjurmg-

had begun to flag, was -"^^^^^ f ^/J^ftht^ that at least one
house. It was instantly whispered « ««"^ \^« ' ^ ^o be only the

devil had crept under the moo«e^km B«^^ P^°;,^^^ ,,,,, He had
» God-like man " (as ^c called himselt)ten.W^^^^^ ^^^^^

entered the lists ^^"PFd^oJ^^^^^^^^^^^ ,,,,ever, with con-

low that evcmng. Hw ""^""P*', T./^^^r when he reluctantly gave

! siderablc resoUition for half an -". ^^^^^^^^^ ,he noose when it

1 in. He had found no difficiUty "J f'W"S ^^ i„,tance, the knot

> was formed by his countrymen ; but, /" ^^« P™''" .j^, ^fter this un-

\ was tied by ^o-nior .W"^r;a"k\m^in^^^^^^^^^^^^ ,he earliest

; successful exhibition his c'^«d>%«'^"^^,^"'J""f7'

; opportunity of sneaking away from «ie Fort ^^^ ^^ h^^j

Franklin divided his coinpany, leaving Dr. Ku^^a ^^^^

nt Cumberland House untU the BP™g' *"d t^kin^jxt ^^.^,^^^^

: BackaiidHep^™. H-eto^^^^^^^^

with two dog-sleds by the Compwiy « S ' jjouso after a walk

he had taken into his servic . He ^te Englishmen suffetsd greatly
of fourteen days, during which t*^;^"/^ h^^.^ T^e weather was

' from the "— oTrteat a^! fI^^^^^^ the tin pots before

intensely cold : Our tea, si^y".' nf smrits and water became quite

lR SKA.

i('.ssin<j the liabits
rt. Tlii'se people
, and very super-
who take advan-
e a good livi'g at
imberlaiid IIouso
began to truiupet
lUhougli his hands
phiced in a conjur-
he aid of two or
lie was instantly
be without an aim,
lis success. A con-
that is, by sticking
hoop at the height
ly winding several
id placed in its nar-
tcr. A moose-skin
rom our view. Ho
•y monotonous tone,
aubt respecting the
lose of a- white man,
ith anxiety. In this
our attention, which
iig of the c<Mijuruig-
ule, that at least one
•ovcd to bo only the
with cold. He had
rmometer stood very
, however, with con-
n he reluctantly gave
gh the noose when it
nt instance, the knot
sailor. After this un-
id he took the earliest

lardson and Mr. Hood
ig with him only Mr.
nuary, 1820, furnished
some Canadians whom
on House after a walk
imen suffetsd greatly
?s. The weather was
in the tin pots before
[id water became quite
rest, we felt no incon-

PREPARATIONS AT FORT CHIPEWYAN.

291

venience." Tlio day before reaching Carlton House, they consumed
their last provisions. Here they took a few days' rest, in order to re-
cover from their fatigue, and procure supplies for the further journey.

They started again on tlie 8tli of February, and, with tlie exception
of a short regt at Fort La Crosse, continued their journey to Fort Chipe-
wyan, on Athabasca Lake, where they arrived on the 26th of March.
"Thus," says Franklin, "terminated a winter journey of eight hundred
and fifty-seven miles, in the progress of which there was a great amount
of agreeable and disagreeable circumstances : could the amount of each
bo balanced, I suspect the latter would much preponderate. Among
these, the initiation into walking on snow-shoes must be considered as
prominent. The next evil is the being constantly exposed to witness
the wanton and unnecessary cruelty of the men to their dogs, especially
those of the Canadians, who beat them unmercifully. There arc other
inconveniences, which, though keenly felt during the day's journey, are
speedily forgotten, when, stretched out in the encampment before a
largo fire, yon enjoy the social mirth of your companions, who usually
pass the evening in recounting their former feats in traveling."

As Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood were to wait at Cumberland House
until the opening of river navigation in the spring, Franklin was obliged
to wait at Chipewyan House for their arrival, which did not take place
until the 1 3th of July. He made use of the intervening time in sending
messages to the chief of the Coppermine Indians, who professed his will-
ingness to assist him in his explorations, in engaging boatmen and in-
terpreters, and building xanoes, and in preparing dispatches for England.
Richardson and Hood brought along two canoes, but the pemraioan
with which they had been supplied by the agents of the Hudson's Bay
Company proved to be so moldy, that they threw it away, and they had
but provisions for one day on arriving at Fort Chipewyan. Franklin
obtained all the supplies that could be spared from the fort, but could
obtain neither ammunition nor spirits, and but little tobacco. Ho says :
" "We then made a final arrangement respecting the voyageurs who were
to accompany the party ; and fortunately there was no difliculty in doing
this, as Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood had taken the very judicious
precaution of bringing up ten men from Cumberland, who were engaged
to proceed forward if their services were required. These men were
most desirous of being continued, and we felt sincere pleasure in being
able to keep men who were so zealous in the cause, and wlio had given
proofe of their activity on their recent passage to this place, by discharg-
ing those men who were less willing to undertake the journey. When
the numbers were completed which we had bcL-n recommended by the
traders to take as a protection against the Esquimaux, we had sixteen
Canadian voyageurs, and our worthy and only English attendant, John
Hepburn, besides the two interpreters whom wc were to receive at the
Great Slave Lake ; we were also accompanied by a Chipewyan woman.
An equipment of goods was given to each of the men ; and when this

292

FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA.

distribution hnd been made, the remainder were made up into bales,
preparatory to our departure on the following day, the 18th of July."

Their stock of provisions was only sufficient for one day's consump-
tion, exclusive of two barrels of flour, three cases of preserved moats,
with some chocolate, arrow-root, and portable soup, which they had
brought from England and intended to reserve for their exploring tour
along the coast next summer. The scarcity of food did not in the least
depress the Canadians, who paddled otf, singing, into the Slave Iltver.
This is a magnificent stream, three quarters of a mile wide, but inter-
rupted by occasional rapids. Their voyage down it was without incident,
and in six days they reached the trading post on Moose Deer Island, in
Great Slave Lake. Here Franklin engaged St. Gennain, an interpreter
for the Copper Indians, and obtained five hundred and fifty pounds of
dried meat. He then crossed the lake to Fort Providence, on the
northern side, where he found Mr. Wentzcl, one of the Company's
clerks, who intended to accompany the expedition to the Coppermine
River, together with Adam, an interpreter, and one of the Indian
guides. The chief of the tribe, who was encamped in the neighborhood,
was at once sent for, and a grand council was held on bis arrival, which
terminated in his agreeing to accompany Franklin. His name was
Akaitcho, or Big-foot. After the council was over, presents wore dis-
tributed to him and his braves, and the ceremonies terminated with an
Indian dance.

The party left Fort Providence on the 2d of August. " Our stores,'*
says Franklin, " consisted of two barrels of gunpowder, one hundred
and forty pounds of balls and small shot, four fowling-pieces, a few old
trading-guns, eight pistols, twenty-four Indian daggers, some packages
of knives, chisels, axes, naUs, and fastenings for a boat, a few yards of
cloth, some blankets, needles, looking-glasses, and beads, together with
nine fishing-nets, having meshes of different sizes." There were twenty-
eight persons in all, including the wives of three of the voyageurs, who
went along for the purpose of making shoes and clothes for the men in
their winter quarters. Fort Providence is the last trading establishment,
and the country beyond it had never before been visited by any Euro-
pean. They ascended Yellow-knife River, which flows into Great Slave
Loke from the north east, a distance of one hundred and fifty-six miles,
passing through a chain of lakes, between which there were many rapids,
requiring portage of the canoes. They then crossed a barren water-shed
for thirty miles, carrying their canoes from lake to lake, until, on the
20th, they reached a river mnning to the north-west, on the banks of
which the chief| Akaitcho, proposed they should establish their winter
quarters. ** We found that the situation they had chosen possessed all
the advantages we could desire. The trees were numerous, and of afar
greater size than we had supposed them to be on a distant view, some
of the pines being thirty or forty feet high, and two feet in diameter at
the root. We determined on placing the house on the summit of the

S.R SBA.

(Ic up into bales,
B 18th of July."
e day's consump-
preservcd moats,
, which they had
leir exploring tour
iid not in the least
the Slave Iliver.
Ic wide, but inter-
i without incident,
)8e Deer Island, in
aain,an interpreter
jid fifty pounds of
I'rovidence, on the
of the Company's
to the Coppermine
one of the Indian
I the neighborhood,
m his arrival, which
in. His name was
r, presents wore dis-
terminated with an

just. " Our stores,'*
(owder, one hundred
ling-pieces, a few old
ijgcrs, some packages

boat, a few yards of
beads, together with
There were twenty-
f the voyageurs, who
iothes for the men in
trading establishment,

visited by any Euro-
flows into Great Slave
•cd and fifty-six miles,
icre were many rapids,
}d a barren water-shed

to lake, until, on the
west, on the banks of

establish their winter
d chosen possessed all
numerous, and of a fer
1 a distant view, some
wo feet in diameter at
on the summit of the

WINTER qUARTKRS.

296

bank, which commands a lieaui,iful prospect of the surrounding country.
In the afternoon we read divine servioo, ami olTcrvd our thankitgiving to
tlio Almighty for his goodness in having brought us thus tiir on our
journey."

AkaitcliQ, however, broke hia promise of accompanying Franklin to
the Coppermine Uiver, alleging that the season was now too far ad-
vanced, and his tribe were obliged to procure deer-skins for the winter.
No persuasion could induce him to change his decision ; so, after mature
deliberation, Franklin gave up the idea of reaching the sea until the
next summer. lie thought it prudent, however, to send a party to ex-
plore the upper waters of the Coppermine, and ascertain its rapids, etc.,
and dispatched Back and Hood, with St. Germain, the interpreter, and
eight Canadians, ' n this duty. Soon after they left, he left Mr. Went-
zel to superintend the building of the fort, and started with Dr. Rich-
ardson on a pedestrian journey to the Coppermine. Both parties were
only absent about ten days, and on their return found that the winter*
house, which they named Fort Enterprise, was already rooied in.

rOKT ENTXRPRISB.

" On the 6th of October," says Franklin, " the house being com-
pleted, we struck our tents, and moved into it. It was merely a log
building, fifty feet long and twenty-four wide, divided into a hall, three
bed-rooms, and a kitchen. The walls and roof were plastered with clay,
the floors laid with planks rudely b4i:ared with the hatchet, and the
windows closed with parchment of deer-skin." They now went to work
to secure a good supply of provisions for the winter, and, with the as-
Bistance of the Indians, had stored away, by the middle of October, one

mmm

'Mi

294

FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA.

hundred and eighty deer, together with one thousand per .ids of suet,
and some dried meat. On the 18th, Messrs. Back and Wentzel set out
for Fort Providence, with two Canadians and two Indians, to attend to
the transporting of the stores which Frankhn expected to receive from
Cumberland House. In the following month one of the Canadipns re-
turned, stating that the supplies had not arrived; that Mr. Weeks,
the company's agent at Fort IVovidence, was endeavoring to prejudice
the Indians against them, and that Mr. Back would probably be obliged
to continue his journey to Fort Chipewyan to obtain supplies. All these
disappointments were very embarrassing to Franklin, and they no doubt
had an effect on the fortunes of the expedition.

The weather during December was the coldest they experienced.
" The thermometer sank on one occasion to 57° below zero, and never
rose beyond 6° above it ; the mean for the month was — 29°.'7. During
these intense colds, however, the atmosphere was generally calm, and
the wood-cutters and others went about their ordinary occupations with-
out using any extraordinary precautions, yet without feeling any bad
effects. They had their reindeer-shirts on, leathern mittens lined with
blankets, and furred caps ; but none of them used any defense for the
face, or needed any. The intense colds were, nevertheless, detrimental
to us in another way. The trees froze to their very centers and became
as hard as stones, and more difficult to cut. Some of the axes were
broken daily, and by the end of the month we had only one left that
was fit for felling trees. A thermometer, hung in our bed-room at the
distance of sixteen feet from the fire, but exposed to its direct radiation,
stood even in the day-time occasionally at 15° below zero, and was ob-
served more than once, previous to the kindling of the fire in the morn-
ing, to be as low as 40° below zero.

" A considerable portion of our time was occupied in writing up
our journals Some newspapers and magazines, that we had received
from England with our letters, were read again and again, and com-
mented upon at our meals ; and we often exercised ourselves with con-
jecturing the changes that might take place in the world before we
could hear from it again. We occasionally paid the woodmen a visit,
or took a walk for a mile or two on the river. In the evenmgs we joined
the men in the hall, and took a part in their games, which generally
continued till a late hour ; in short, we never found the time to hang
heavy on our hands ; and the peculiar occupations of each of the officers
afforded them more employment than might at first be supposed. Our
diet consisted almost entirely of reindeer meat, varied twice a week by
fish, at.d occasionally by a little flour, but we had no vegetables of any
descr ption. On Sunday mornings we drank a cup of chocolate, but our
greatest luxury wiw tea (without sugar), of which we regularly partook
twice a day. With reindeer's fat, and strips of cotton shirts, we formed
candles ; and Hepburn acquired considerable skill in the manufacture of
soap, from the wood-ashes, fat, and salt."

,AR SEA.

id por ads of 8uet,
id Wentzel set out
dians, to attend to
ed to receive from
' the Canadipns re-
that Mr. Weeks,
voring to prejudice
)robably be obliged
supplies. All these
, and they no doubt

t they experienced,
low zero, and never
13 — 29°.7. During
generally calm, and
ry occupations Avith-
out feeling any bad
. mittens lined with
any defense for the
rtheless, detrimental
centers and became
B of the axes were
id only one left that
our bed-room at the
3 its direct radiation,
»w zero, and was ob-
the fire in the mom-

upied in writing up
hat we had received
and again, and com-
d ourselves with con-
Lhe world before we
he woodmen a visit,
le evenings we joined
imes, which generally
und the time to hang
of each of the officers
3t be supposed. Our
ried twice a week by
no vegetables of any
> of chocolate, but our
we regularly partook
tton shirts, we formed
in the manufacture of

DESCENDING THE COPPERMINE.

295

Thus the winter passed away, and on the 17th of Marcli, 1821, Lieu-
tenant Back returned, after an absence of five months, during which
time ho had traveled eleven hundred and four miles on snow-shoes, with
no other covering at night than a blanket and deer-skin, with the ther-
mometer frequently at 40°, and once 57°, below zero. Their provisions
now gave out, and the months of April and May were spent principally
in replenishing their supplies, in negotiations with the Indians, who,
from the refusal of Mr. Weeks to pay Franklin^s orders, had become
unruly and discontented, and in procuring goods and ammunition for
the summer voyage. The season was later than usual, and the expedi-
tion was not ready to leave before the beginning of June. Dr. Richard-
son was sent forward in advance, with part of the stores, to Point Lake
on the Coppermine River, and on the 14th of the same month Franklin
set out with the remainder of the party. He took the precaution of
sending, previously, all his journals, dispatches, and other writings, to
England, by way of Fort Providence and the other trading posts.

The first part of the journey was very fatiguing, as the ice on the
smaller lakes was rotten, and the men broke through frequently. They
traveled thus, without any serious accident, for seven days, when they
reached Dr. Richardson's encampment on Point Lake. Here the ice
was still six or seven feet thick, with no appearance of melting, and they
were therefore obliged to drag the canoes and stores over its surface.
The canoes were mounted on sledges, and drawn along by the combined
efibrts of dogs and men. Four days were required to cross Point Lake,
as they did not make more than ten miles a day, and when this lake was
passed, a short rapid conducted them to another, frozen in like manner.
They were not able to launch the canoes on the Coppermine until the 2d
of July, after which their voyage was less fatiguing, but much more
dangerous, from the rapida in the stream and the masses of drift-ice.
Their supplies of meat, however, which were quite exhausted, were now
replenished from the herd of musk-oxen which they met with. On the
9th they passed safely through the Narrowe of the Coppermine, a place
where the river, for three quarters of a mile, is confined between prec-
ipices two hundred feet high, and shoots along in an arrowy mass of
foam.

As they approached the mouth of the river, they kept a good look-
out tor the Esquimaux, whom they expected to find in that neighbor-
hood. In order to secure a fi-iendly reception from them, one of the
Indian interpreters, named Augustus, was sent forward to communicate
with them. He found some of them near the falls of the Coppermine,
and as they seemad considerably alarmed at the news, the boats of the
expedition halted a little short of that point on the 14th. "After supper
Dr. Richardson ascended a lofty hill about three miles from the en-
campment, and obtained the first view of the sea ; it appeared to be
covered with ice. A large promontory, which I named Cape Hearne,
bore north-east, and its lofty mountains proved to be the blue land we

Hfif^

wmaummd

29fi

FRANKLIN'S JOURNBT TO TUK POLAR SEA.

had seen in the forenoon, and which had led us to believe the sea was
still far distant."

They succeeded in establishing some intercourse with the Esqui^
maux, but found them rather shy and suspicious. They were at last
able, however, to get upon a friendly footing with an old mar. named
Terregannoeuck, who had a fresh, ruddy face, a prominent nose, and a
snow-white beard, two inches long. Upon showmg him his face in a
mirror for the first time, he exclaimed, " I shall never kill deer any
more," and immediately put the mirror down. Here Akaitcho and his
party left, to return to the grounds of their tribe. The expedition
reached the sea on the 19th of July, when Mr. Wentzel left with four
Canadians, to return to Fort Providence. The remainder of the party,
including officers, now amounted to twenty men. Mr. Wentzel took
Franklin's last dispatches to be forwarded to England, and was instruct-
ed to take charge of all the journals and collections left at Fort Enter-
prise, as well as to deposit there a quantity of supplies for Franklin's
party, in case they should return by the same route. When his party
had been supplied with ammunition, the remaining stock consisted of one
thousand balls, with rather more than the requisite quantity of powder.

From this point their discoveries commenced. They embarked on
the Polar Sea on the 21st, and turned their canoes eastward, hoping in
these frail barks, to solve the problem of a north-west passage. Pad-
dling along the coast, on the inside of a crowded range of islands, they
encamped on shore after a run of thirty-seven miles, in which they ex-
perienced little interruption, and saw only a small iceberg in the dis-
tance, though that beautiftil luminous effulgence emitted from the con-
gregated ices, and distinguished by the name of the ice-blink, was dis-
tinctly visible to the northward. The coast was found of moderate
height, easy of access, and covered with vegetation ; but the islands
were rocky and barren, presenting high cliffs of a columnar structure.
In continuing their voyage, the dangers which beset a navigator in these
dreadful polar solitudes thickened gloomily around them. Tlie coast
became broken and sterile, and at length rose into a high and rugged
promontory, against which some large masses of ice had drifted, threat-
ening destruction to their slender canoes. In attempting to round this
cape the wind rose, an awful gloom involved the sky, and the thunder
burst over their heads, compelling them to encamp till the storm sub-
sided. They then, at the immuient risk of having the canoes crushed
by the floating ice, doubled the dreary promontory, which they denomi-
nated Cape Barrow, and entered Detention Harbor, where they landed.
Around ihem the land consisted of mountains of granite, rising abruptly
from the water's edge, destitute of vegetation, and attaining an elevation
of fourteen or fifteen hundred feet ; seals and small deer were the only
animals seen, and the former were so shy that all attempts to approach
within shot were unsuccessfiil. With the deer the hunters were more
fortunate, but these were not numerous ; and while the ice closed grad-

i ini«WWT liKilll i niW Il iililliB I I WH

)LAR SEA.
iHsUeve the sea was

irse with the Eaqui'
They were at last
,h an old mar. named
rominent nose, and a
ing him his face in a

never kill deer any
ere Akaitcho and his
ibe. The expedition
'entzel left with four
mainder of the party,
. Mr. Wentzel took
md, and was instruct-
ns left at Fort Enter-
ipplies for Franklin's
ute. When his party

stock con^sted of one
quantity of powder.
. They embarked on
es eastward, hoping in
h-west passage. Pad-
, range of islands, they
liles, in which they ex-
lall iceberg in the dis-
i emitted from the con-

the ice-blink, was dis-
as found of moderate
ation ; but the islands
' a columnar structure,
set a navigator in these
•und them. Tlie coast
uito a high and rugged
ice had drifted, threat-
tempting to round this
e sky, and the thunder
samp till the storm sub-
ing the canoes crushed
►ry, which they denomi-
bor, where they landed,
granite, rising abruptly
d attaining an elevation
mall deer were the only
lU attempts to approach
the hunters were more
aile the ice closed gradr

EXPLORATION OF THE ARCTIC COAST.

297

ually around them, and their little stock of provisions, consisting of
pemmioan and cured beef, every day diminished, it was impossible not
to regard their situation with uneasiness. Rounding Cape Kater, they
entered Arctic iSound, and send a party to explore a river upon the
banks of ^hich they expected to find an Esquimaux encampment. All,
however, was silent, desolate, and deserted ; even these hardy natives,
bred amid the polar ices, had removed from so barren a spot, and the
hunters returned with two small deer and a brown bear, the latter ani-
mal so lean and sickly looking, that the men declined eating it ; but the
officers boiled its paws, and found them excellent.

Proceeding along the eastern shore of Arctic Sound, to which they
gave the name of Bankes' Peninsula, the expedition made its painful way
along a coast indjented by bays, and in many places studded with islands,
till, on the 10th of August, they reached the open sea ; iuid sailing, as
they imagmed, between the continent and a large island, found to their
deep disappointment that, instead of an open channel, they wer^ in the
center of a vast bay. The state of the expedition now called for the
most serious consideration upon the part of their conmiander. So much
time had already been spent in exploring the sounds and inlets, that all
hope of reaching Repulse Bay was vain ; both canoes had sustained ma-
terial injury ; the fuel was expended ; their provbions were snfficient
only for three days ; the appearances of the setting in of the arctic
winter were too unequivocal to be mistaken ; the deer, which bad hith-
erto supplied them with fresh meat, would, it was well known, soon
disappear ; the geese and other aquatic birds were already seen winging
their way to the southward ; wliile the men, who had ap to this mo-
ment displayed the utmost courage, began to look disheartened, and to
entertain serious apprehensions for their safety. Under these circum-
stances, Franklin, with the concurrence of his officers, determined not
to endaiiger the lives of his people by a further advance ; and after
spending four days in a minute survey of the bay, it was resolved to
return by Hood's River to Foi-t Enterprise. Franklin's researches, as
far as prosecuted at this time, favored the opinion of those who con-
tended for the practicability of a north-west passage. It appeared
probable that the coast ran east and west in the latitude assigned to
Mackenzie's River, and little doubt could, in his opinion, be entertained
regarding the existence of a continued sea in that direction. The por-
tion over which they passed was navigable for vessels of any size ; and
the ice met with after quitting Detention Harbor would not have arrested
a strong boat, while the chain of islands afforded shelter from all heavy
seas, and there were good harbors at convenient distances. Having,
with much severe privation, completed their course, from Point Turn-
again, in Melville Bay, to the entrance of Hood's River, they ascended as
high as the first rapid, and encamped, terminating here their voyage on
the Arctic Sea, during which they had gone over six hundred and fifty
geographical miles.

-^a^

298

FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA.

On the prospect of commencing their land journey, the Canadians
could not conceal their satisfaction ; and the evening previous to their
departure was passed in talking over their post adventures, and con-
gratulatmg each other in having at length turned their backs upon the
sea, little anticipating that the most painful and hazardous portion of the
expedition was yet to come. Before setting off, an assortment of iron
materials, beads, looking-glasses, and other articles, was put up in a

i«i -ite--- ,~ " rlQ^ii-i V •

WILBERFOBOB FALLS.

conspicuous situation for the Esquimaux, and the English union was
planted on the loftiest sand-hill, where it might be seen by any ships
passing in the offing. Here also was deposited in a tin box a letter con-
taining an outline of the proceedings of the expedition, the latitude and
longitude of the principal places, and the course intended to be pursued
toward Slave Lake. They now proceeded up the river in their canoes,
and though upon a short allowance of provisions, the produce of their
nets and fowling-pieces furnished for a few days enough to ward off ab-
solute want ; but they were often on the very brmk of it. Their pro-

.R SEA.

y, tho Canadiaii&
)rcviou9 to their
entureg, and coii-
• backs upon the
0U8 portion of the
jsortmcnt of iron
«va8 put up in a

English union waa
seen by any ships
tin box a letter con-
)n, the latitude and
nded to be pursued
»rer in their canoes,
le produce of their
ugh to ward off ab-
le of it. Tlieir pro-

THB COMMENCEMENT OF SUFFERING.

299

grcBS was mnc)i interrupted by shoals and rapids, and one evening they
encamped at the lower end of a narrow chasm, the walls of which were
upward of two hundred feet high, and in some places only a few yards
apart. Into this the river precipitates itstUf, forming two magnificent
cascades, to which they gave the name of Wilberforce Falls, and the
combined height of which they estimated at two hundred and seventy-
five feet.

On taking a survey of its further course from a neighboring hill, the
river was discovered to be so rapid and shallow, that all progress in the
large canoes seemed impossible. Two smaller boats were therefore con-
structed ; and on the 1st of September they set off, with the intention of
proceeding in as direct a line as possible to the part of Point Lake opposite
their spring encampment — a distance which appeared comparatively
trifling, being only one hundred and forty-nine miles. Their luggage
consisted of ammunition, nets, hatchets, ice-chisels, astronomical instru-
ments, clothing-blankets, three kettles, and the two canoes, each so light
as to be carried easily by a single man. But disaster attacked them in
their very first stage. A storm of snow came on, accompanied by a high
wind, against which it was difficult to carry the canoes, which were dam-
aged by the falls of those who bore them. The ground was covered with
small stones, and much pain was endured by the carriers, whose soft
moose-skin shoes were soon cut through. The cold was intense ; and on
encamping they looked in vain lor wood ; a fire of moss was all they
could procure, which served them to cook their supper, but gave so little
heat that they were glad to creep under their blankets.

Having ascended next morning one of the highest hills, they ascer-
tained that the river took a westerly course, and Franklin, thinking that
to follow it further would lead to a more tedious journey than their ex-
hausted strength could endure, determined to quit its banks and make
directly for Point Lake. Emerging, therefore, from the valley, they
crossed a barren country, varied only by marshy levels and small lakes.
The weather was fine, but imfortunately no berry-bearing plants were
found, the surface being covered in the more humid spots with a few
grasses, and in other places with some gray melancholy lichens. On en-
camping, the last piece of pemmican, or pounded flesh, was distributed,
with a little arrow-root, for supper. The evening was warm ; but dark
clouds overspread the sky, and they experienced those sudden alterna-
tions of climate which occur in the polar latitudes at this season. At
midnight it rained in torrents ; but toward morning a snow-storm arose,
accompanied by a violent gale. During the whole day the storm con-
tinued, and not having the comfort of a fire the men remained in bed,
but the tents were frozen ; around them the snow had drifted to the
depth of three feet, and even within lay several inches thick on their
blankets. Though the storm had not abated, any longer delay w><4 im-
possible, for they knew every hour would increase the intensity of an
arctic winter ; and though faint from fasting, and with their clothes stiff-

800

FRANKLIN'S JOUBNBT TO THB POLAR SEA.

ened by frost, it was absolutely necessary to push forward. They lo^
fered much in packing the frozen tents and bedclothes, and could hardly
keep their hands out of their fur mittens. On attempting to move,
Franklin was seized with a &inting fit, occasioned by hunger and ex-
haustion, and on recovering refused to cat a morsel of portable isoup,
which was immediately prepared for him, ns it had to be drawn from
the only remaining meal of the party. The people, however, kindly
crowded round, and overcame his reluctance. The effect of eating was
his rapid recovery ; and the expedition moved on.

Disaster now crowded on disaster. The wind rose so high that those
who carried the canoes were frequently blown down, and one of the
boats was so much shattered as to be rendered unserviceable. The
ground was covered with snow ; and though the swamps were frozen,
yet the ice was often not sufficiently strong ; so that they plunged in
knce-dcep. A fire, however, was made of the bark and timbers of the
broken canoe ; and, after having &sted three days, their la^l meal of
portable soup and arrow-root was cooked. Each man's allowance at this
melancholy dinner was exceedingly scanty ; but it allayed the pangs of
hunger, and encouraged them to press forward at a quicker rate. They
had now reached a more hilly country, strewed with large stones, and
covered with gray lichen, well known to the Canadians by its name,
tripe de roche. In cases of extremity, it is boiled and eaten ; but its
taste is nauseous, its quality purgative, and it sometimes produces an in-
tolerable griping biid loathing. The party not being aware of this,
gathered a considerable quantity. A few partridges also had been shot ;
and at night some willows M'ere dug up from under the snow, with which
the/ lighted a fire and cooked their supper.

Next day they came to Cracroft's River, flowing to the westward over
a channel of large stones, which rendered it impossible to cross in the
oanoe. No alternative was left but to attempt a precarious passage over
some rocks at a rapid ; and in effectuig this, some of the men, losing
their balance, slipped into the water. They were instantly rescued by their
companions ; but so intense was the frost, that their drenched clothes
became caked with ice, and they suffered much during the remainder of
the day's march. The hunters had &llen in with some partridges, which
they shot, and they found enough of roots to make a fire ; so that their
supper, though scanty, was comparatively comfortable. Next morning
they pushed forward with ardor, and passed the River Congecathawha-
ohaga of Mr. Heame. The country which lay before them was hilly,
and covered with snow to a great depth. The sides of the lulls were
traversed by sharp angular rooks, where the drifted snow, filling up the
interstices, presented a smooth but fallacious surface, which often gave
way and precipitated them into the chasms with i\u iv heavy loads. In
this painfhl and arduous manner they struggled forward several days,
feeding on the tripe de rocfte^ which was so frozen to the rooks that
their hands were benumbed before a meal could be collected, and so

iR SEA.

pward. TheyBot
and could hardly

smpting to move,

y hunger and ex-
of portable soup,

x» be drawn from
however, kindly

ffect of eating was

so high that those
m, and one of the
nserviceable. The
ramps were frozen,
at they plunged in
and timbers of the

their laQt meal of
I's allowance at this
Hayed the pangs of
juicker rate. They
h large stones, and
kdians by its name,

and eaten ; but its
imes produces an in-
leing aware of this,
I also had been shot ;
the snow, with which

to the westward over
isible to cross in the
ecarious passage over
3 of the men, losing
antly rescued by their
leir drenched clothes
ing the remainder of
)me partridges, which
B a fire ; so that their
able. Next morning
liver Congecathawhar
efore them was hilly,
des of the hills we»e
>d snow, filling np the
tace, which often gave
i,\v, ir heavy loads. In
forward several days,
sen to the rocks that
L be collected, and so

PROTIDENTIAL RELIBF.

801

destitute of nutritive juices, that it allayed hanger only for a very short
time.

At length reaching the summit of a hill, they, to their great delight,
beheld a herd of musk-oxen feeding in the valley below ; an instant bait
was made, the best hunters were called out, and while they proceeded
with extreme caution in a circuitous route, their companions watched
their proceedings with intense anxiety. When near enough to open
their fire, the report reverberated through the hills, and one of the
largest cows was seen to &11. ^* This success," says Franklin, in that
simple account of his journey which any change of language would only
weaken, **■ infused spirit into our starving party. The contents of its
stomach were devoured upon the spot ; and the raw intestines, which
were next attacked, were pronounced by the most delicate of the party
to be excellent. A few willows, whose tops were seen peeping through
the snow in the bottom of the valley, were quickly grubbed, the tents
pitched, and supper cooked and devoured with avidity. It was the
sixth day since we had had a good meal. I do not think that we wit-
nessed, through the course of our journey, a more striking proof of the
wise dispensation of the Almighty, and of the weakness of our own
judgment, than on this day. We bad considered the dense fog which
prevailed throughout the morning as almost the greatest inconvenience
which could have befallen us, since it rendered the air extremely cold,
and prevented us from distinguishing any distant object toward which
our course could be directed. Yet this very darkness enabled the party
to get to the top of the hill, which bounded the valley wherein the
musk-oxen were grazing, without being perceived. Had the herd dis-
covered us and taken alarm, our hunters, in their present state of de-
bility, would, in all probability, have Mled in approaching them."

On the following day a strong southerly wind blowing with a snow-
drift, they took a day's rest, and as only enough remab(id of the musk-
ox to serve for two days, they contented themselves with a single meal.
Next morning, though the gale had not diminished, they pushed for-
ward, and notwithstanding their rest and recent supply of animal food,
the whole party felt greater weakness than they had hitherto expe-
rienced. The weather was hazy, but after an hour's march the sky
cleared, and they found themselves on the borders of a lake, of which
they could not discern the termination in either direction. In these cir-
cumstances they traveled along its banks to the westward, in search of
a crossing-place. Credit, one of the Canadians, left the party in hopes
of fiiUing in with deer, but did Bbt return ; imd on encamping in the
evening, hungry and fiitigued, they had to divide for supper a single
partridge and some tripe de roche. This weed from the first had been
unpalatable, but now became insupportably nauseous, and began in many
to produce severe pains and bowel-complaints, especially in Mr. Hood,
lliis solitary partridge was the last morsel of animaj food that remtuned;
and they turned with deep anxiety to the hope of catching some fish in

•7^

302 PRANKLIN'8 JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA.

the lake, but discovered that the persons intrusted with them had im-
provideiitly thrown away three of the nets and burned the floats on leav-
ing Hood's Kiver. Things now began to look very gloomy ; and as the
men were daily getting weaker, it was judged expedient to lighten their
burdens of every thing except ammunition, clothing, and the instruments
necessary to guide them on their way. The dipping-needle, the azimuth
compass, the magnet, a large thermometer, and the l^w books they car-
ried, were therefore deposited at this encampment, after they had torn
out from these last the tables necessary for working the latitude and
longitude. Rewards also were promised by Franklin to such of the
party as should kill any animals, and in the morning they prepared to go
forward.

At this moment a fine trait of ditiinterestedness occurred : As the
officers assembled round a small fire, enduring an intense degree of
hunger which they had no means of satisfying, Perrault, one of the
Canadians, presented each of them with a piece of meat out of a little
store which he had saved from his allowance. " It was received," says
Franklin, " with great thankfulness, and such an instance of self-denial
and kindness filled our eyes with tears." IVessing forward to a river
issuing from the lake, they met their comrade. Credit, and received the
joyful intelligence that he had killed two deer. One of these was im-
mediately cut up and prepared for breakfast ; and having sent some of
the party for the other, the rest proceeded down the river, which was
about three hundred yards broad, in search of a place to cross. Having
chosen a spot where the cunent Avas smooth, immediately above a rapid,
Franklin and two Canadian boatmen, St. Germain and Belanger, pushed
from the shore. The breeze was fresh, and the current stronger than
they imagined, so that they approached the very edge of the rapid ; and
Belanger employing his paddle to steady the canoe, lost his balance, and
overset the bark in the middle of it. Tlie party clung to its side, and
reaching a rock where the stream was but waist-deep, kept their footing
till the canoe was emptied of water, after which Belanger held it steady,
while St. Germain replaced Franklin in it, and dexterously leaped in
himself. Such was their situation, Uiat if the man who stood on the
rock had raised his foot, they would have been lost. His friends there-
fore were compelled to leave him, and after a second disaster, in which
the canoe struck, and was as expeditiously righted as before, they
reached the opposite bank.

Meanwhile Belanger suffered extremely, immersed to his middle, and
enduring intense cold. He called pitcously for relief, and St. Germain
re-embarking, attempted to reach him, but was hurried down the rapid,
and on coming ashore was so benumbed as to be incapable of further
exertion, A second effort, but equally unsuccessful, was made by Adam :
they then tried to carry out a line formed of the slings of the men's
loads, but it broke, and was carried dowr the stream. At last, when
he was almost exhausted, the canoe reached him with a small cord of

,AR SEA.

(vith them had im-
, the floats on leav-
looiny ; and as the
Biit to lighten their
indtheinstruiaents
needle, the azimuth
Lw books they car-
after they had torn
g the latitude and j
;lia to such of the
they prepared to go

occurred: As the {
intense degree of j
'errault, one of the j
meat out of a little j
was received," says ]
stance of self-denial |
; forward to a river j
lit, and received the
)ne of these was im-
having sent some of
the river, which was
ce to cross. Having
iiately above a rapid,
ind Belanger, pushed
urrent stronger than
Igeofthe rapid; and
, lost his balance, and
clung to its side, and
ep, kept their footing
langer held it steady,
lexterously leaped in
m who stood on the
(t. His friends there-
jnd disaster, in which
ited as before, they

sed to his middle, and
elicf, and St. Germain
irried down the rapid,
; incapable of further
1, was made by Adam :
e slings of the men's
tream. At last, when
with a small cord of

A PBRILOUS SITUATION.

803

one of the remaining nets, and he was dragged to shore quite insensible.
On being stripped, rolled in blankets, and put to bed between two men,
he recovered. During these operations Franklin was left alone upon the
bank, and it seemed a matter of the utmost doubt whether ho should be
ever rejoined by his companions. " It is impossible," says lie, " to de-
scribe my sensations as I witnessed the various unsuccessful attenipts to
relieve Belanger. The distance prevented my seeing distinctly what
was going on, and I continued pacing up and down the rock on which
I stood, regardless of the coldness of my drenched and stiffened gar-
ments. The canoe, in every attempt to reach him, was hurried down
the rapid, and was lost to view among the rocky islets, with a fury
which seemed to threaten instant destruction ; once, indeed, I fancied
that I saw it overwhelmed in the waves : such an event would have
been fatal to the whole party. Separated as I was from my companions,
without gun, ammunition, hatchet, or the means of making a fire, and
in wet clothes, my doom would have been speedily sealed. My com-
panions too, driven to the necessity of coasting the lake, must have sunk
under the fatigue of rounding its innumerable arms and bays, which, as
we learned afterward from the Indians, are extensive. By the good-
ness of Providence, however, we were spared at that time, and some of
us have been permitted to offer up our thanksgiving in a civilized land
for the signal deliverance we then and afterward experienced."

On setting out next morning, Perrault brought in a fine male deer,
which raised the spirits of the party, as it secured them in provisions for
two days ; and they trusted to support themselves for a third on the
skin which they carried with them. Having ascended the Willingham
Mountauis, they entered upon a rugged country, intersected by deep
ravines, the passage of which was so difficult, that they could only make
ten miles with great fatigue. The deer was now picked to the last mor-
sel, and they ate pieces of the singed hide with a little tripe de roche.
At other times this meal might have sufficed ; but, exhausted by slen-
der food and continued toil, their appetites had become ravenous.
Hitherto events had been so mercifully ordered, that in their utmost
need some little supply of the tripe de roc/ie had never failed them; but
it was the will of God that their confidence should be yet more strongly
tried ; for they now entered upon a level country covered with snow,
where even this miserable lichen was no longer to be found ; and a bed
of Iceland moss, which was boiled for supper, proved so bitter that none
of the party, though enduring the extremities of hunger, could taste
more than a few spoonfuls. Another distress now attacked them : the
intensity of the cold increased, while they became less fit to endure it.
Their blankets did not suffice to keep them warm, and the slightest
breeze pierced through their debilitated frames. "The reader," says
Franklin, " will probably be desirous to know how we p *psed our time
in such a comfortless situation. The first operation after encamping was
to thaw our frozen shoes, if a sufficient fire could be made ; dry ones

804

FRANKLIN'S JOURNBT TO THE POLAR SEA.

i
I

<>•■ ■'<

■'t,.

were then put on. Each person then wrote his notes of the daily occur-
rences, and evening prayers were read. As soon as supper was pre-
pared it was eaten, generally in the dark, and we went to bed, and kept
np a cheerful conversation until our blankets were thawed by the heat
of our bodies, and we had gathered sufficient wannth to enable us to
fall asleep. On many nights we had not even the luxury of going to
bed b dry clothes ; for, when the fire was insufficient to dry our shoes,
we dared not venture to pull them off, lest they should freeze so hard
as to be unfit to put on in the morning, and therefore inconvenient
to carry."

Hunger, fatigue, and disappointment, began now to have a calami-
tous eficct upon the tempers of the men. One, who carried the canoe,
after several severe falls, threw down his burden, and obstinately refused
to resume it. It was accordingly given to another, who proved stronger,
and pushed forward at so rapid a rate that Mr. Hood, whose weakness
was now extreme, could not keep up with them ; and as Franklin at-'
tempted to pursue and stop them, the whole pnrty were separated. Dr.
Richardson, who had remained behind to gather tripe de roche, joined
him, and on advancing they found the men encamped among some wil-
lows, where they had found some pieces of skin and a few bones of
deer which had been devoured by the wolves. On these they had
made a meal, having burned and pounded the bones, boiled the skin,
and added their old shoes to the mQss. With this no fault could be
found ; but on questioning the person to whom the canoe had been en-
trusted, it was discovered that he had left the boat behind, it having, as
he said, been broken by a fall, and rendered entirely useless.

To the infatuated Obstinacy of the men in refusing to retrace their
steps and fetch it, even in its shattered state, is to be ascribed much of
the distress of their subsequent journey. Every argument and entreaty
seemed entirely thrown away ; and they had apparently lost all hope of
being preserved. When the hunters, who had been out fbr some time,
did not make their appearance, they became fiirious at the idea of having
been deserted, and throwing down their bimdles, declared they would
follow them at all hazards, and leave the weakest to keep up as they
best could. The remonstrances of the officers at length opened their
minds to the madness of such a scheme ; and on encamping in the even-
ing, they found some pines seven or eight feet high, which furnished a
comfortable fire, when they made their supper on tripe de roche. Next
morning a herd of deer came in sight, and they killed five — a supply
which, considering the extremity of hunger and despair to which they
were reduced, was especially providential.

The Canadians now earnestly petitioned for a day's rest. They
pleaded their recent Bufferings, and that ttie enjoyment of two substan-
tial meals, aft«r eight days* &mine, would enable them to press forward
more vigorously. The flesh, the skins, and even the stomachs of the
deer, were accordingly equally divided among the party, and some of

**-vi««»i»Si.

:>&^>t£smmmmi'.

^v<ir..=:sa:#iJte-->

AR SEA.

of tho daily ocour-
B supper was pre-
t to bed, and kept
mwed by the heat
ith to enable ub to
iixiiry of going to
t to dry our shoes,
)nld freeze so hard
•efore inconvenient

to have a calami-
I carried the canoe,

obstinately refused
lio proved stronger,
3d, whose weakness
ind as Franklin at-
vere separated. Dr.
ipe de roche, joined
■d among some wil-
,nd a few bones of
On these they had
les, boiled the skin,
8 no fault could be
! canoe had been en-
behind, it having, as
ly useless.

ring to retrace their
be ascribed much of
gument and entreaty
pently lost all hope of
en out ibr some time,

at the idea of having
declared they would
St to keep up as they
t length opened their
icamping in the even-
yh, which furnished a
^ripe de roche. Next

killed five— a supply
iespsur tp which they

a day's rest. They
pient of two Bubstan-
them to press forward
1 the stomachs of the
le party, and some of

PERPLEXITY OP T II K PARTY.

305

them suffered severely from too free an indulgence in the tise of this
food after so long an abstinence. Next morning tho party rosumod their
journey, and after a walk of three miles, came to the Coppermine Uivor.
Its current was strong ; but with a canoe th«'re would have been no
difficulty in -crossing ; and tho recklesa folly of the men, in abandoning
their only means of transport, was now brought strongly to their mind.
No ford could be discovered, and tho plan was suggested of framing a
vessel of willows, covered with tho canvas of the tent ; but the most
experienced boatmen declared that willows were too small to bear tho
weight, and no pines could be found. Nothing remained but to resume
their march along the borders of the lake ; and looking out eagerly, but
in vain, for some fordablo place, they encamped at the east end. Anx-
ious to adopt every possible means for preserving tho party, Franklin
sent Mr. Back forward with the interpreters to hunt. He was directed
to halt at the first pines, and construct a raft ; and if his hunters had
killed animals sufficient to provision them, he was to cross immediately,
and send the Indians with supplies of meat to the party behind.

At this time it was discovered that two of tho men had stolen part
of the officers' provision, though it had been doled out with the strictest
impartiality, and they saw their leaders suffering more acutely than
themselves. To punish this was impossible, except by the threat that
they should forfeit their wages, which produced little effect. Despond-
ency had deeply seized upon the party, and in the morning strict orders
could not prevent them from straggling in search of the remains of
animals ; in consequence of which much timo was lost in halting, and
ammunition in firing guns to collect them. Tho snow, however, had
disappeared, and pressing forward with more alacrity, they came to an
arm of the lake running north-east. Tho idea of making tho long cir-
cuit round it was distressing ; and having halted to consult what was
to be done, some one discovered in a cliff the carcass of a deer which
had fallen into a chasm. It was quite putrid, but even in that state ap-
peared delicious, and a fire being kindled, a large portion was rapidly
devoured; while the men, cheered by this unexpected breakfast, re-
gained their confidence, and requested leave to return to the rapid,
insisting on the practicability of making a sufficiently strong raft of wil-
lows, though they had formerly pronounced it impossible. Their advice
was followed ; and having sent off Augustus, one of the interpreters,
to inform Mr. Back of this change of plan, they commenced their retro-
grade movement, and encamped at night in a deep valley among some
large willows, where they supped on the remains of the putrid deer.

Next day they regamed the rapids, commenced cutting willows for
the raft, and a reward of three hundred livres was promised by Franklin
to the person who should convey a line across the river strong enough
to manage the raft and transport the party. The willows when cut were
bound into fagot^:. and the work completed; but the greenness of the
wood rendered it heavy, and incapable of supporting more than one

806

FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY TO

POLAR SEA.

'••"s

man at a (iiiie. Still they hoped to bo ahle to croHfl ; Ixit all dcpondod
on gettui|{ u line earned to the opposite bank, through a current one
hundred and thirty yards wide, strong, deep, and uitenseiy cold. Be-
langer nnd Benoit, the two strongest men of the party, repeatedly at-
tempted to take the raft over, but for want of oars were driven back.
The tent-staves were then tied together, and formed a strong pole ; but
it Mas not lung enough to reach the bottom even at a short distance
from the shore. Dr. Richardson next produced a paddle ho had brought
from the coast, but which was found not powerAil enough to impel the
rati against a strong breeze. The failure of every attempt occasioned a
deep despondency, which threatened to have the most fatal eifects,
when Dr. Richardson, with a disinterested courage that made him for-
get his own weakness, threw off his upper garments, and attempted to
swim with a rope to the opponte bank. Plunging in with a lino round
his middle, he at first made some way, but the extreme cold was too
much for him, and in a few moments hia arms became powerless ; still,
being an expert swimmer, he not only kept himself afloat, but made way
by turning on his back and using his legs, so that he had nearly reached
the other side, when, to the inexpressible anguish of those who watched
his progress, his limbs became benumbed, and be sank. All hands now
hauled on the line, and drew him ashore almost lifeless ; but, placed be-
fore a fire of wUows and stripped of his wet clothes, ho gradually revived
enough to give directions as to the mode of treating him. His thin and
emaciated limbs, which were now exposed to view, produced an in-
voluntary exclamation of compassion and surprise : — " Ah, que nous
sommes maigrea !" said the French Canadians ; but it is probable that
few of them w^onld have presented so gaunt and attenuated an appear-
ance as the brave and excellent man who had thus nearly fallen a sacri-
fice to his humanity, for it was discovered about this time that the
hunters were in the practice of withholding the gatne which they shot,
and devouring it in secret.

Soon after this the party were joined by Mr. Back, who had traced
the lake about fifteen miles further up without discovering any place
whera it was possible to get across ; and toward evening Credit, who
had been out hunting, returned without any game of his own killing,
but brought the antlers and backbone of a deer shot during the sum-
mer. These relics had been already picked clean by tho wolves and
birds of prey, but the marrow remained in the spine ; and though com-
pletely putrid, and so acrid as to excoriate the lips, it was not tho less
acceptable. The bones were rendered friable by burning, and the whole
eagerly devoured. St. Germain, one of tho voyageurs, now suggested
that a canoe might be made of the pmntcd canvas used to wrap up
the bedding, and offered to construct it upon a fVamework of willows.
For this purpose he and Adam removed to a clump of willows, while
another party proceeded to the spot where they had encamped on the
26th, to collect pitch among the small pines to pay over the scams. A

AR SKA.

l)iit all (Icpondod
igh a current one
itenuely cold. Be-
wty, repeatedly at-
were driven back,
a itrong pole ; but
at a diort distance
Idle ho had brought
inoQgh to impel the
tempt occasioned a
most fatal effects,
that made him for-
9, and attempted to
in with a lino round
xtreme cold was too
amo powerless ; still,
afloat, but made way
e had nearly reached
)f those who watched
ank. All hands now
bless ; but, placed be-
, he gradually revived
ig him. His thin and
[ew, produced an in-
iBo:— "Ah, quo nouB
lut it is probable that
ittenuated an appear-
i nearly follen a sacri-
iit this time that the
ratoe which they shot,

Back, who had traced
discovering any place
I evening Credit, who
me of his own killing,
r shot during the Bum-
!an by the wolves and
nnc ; and though com-
ips, it was not tho less
homing, and the whole
pgeure, now suggested
anvas used to wrap up
framework of willows,
slump of willows, while
r had encamped on the
pay over the scams. A

OROSSINO TUB OOPPERMINB.

807

snow-Storm ut thin moment came on, and tlie sufTcrings of the men
hotirly inrrensing, a deep gloom settled upon their spirits. Mr. Hood
was by this time reduced to a jterfoct shadow ; Mr. BiR'k required tho
support of a stick ; Dr. lUchardMon wa« lame ; and Franklin so feeble,
that, nftor il struggle of three hours, he found himself utterly unable to
roach tho spot where 8t. (iemi;tiii wiis al work, a distance of only throe
quarters of a mile, .ind returned completely uxiiausted. The Canadian
voyagours had now ikllcn into a state of despondency which l)ordercd
on despair, and, indiiforcnt to their fate, refused to make the slightest
exertion. Tlie officers wore tmablo to undergo the labor of gathering
tho tripe de roche, and Samandr6, the cook, sullenly declined continuing
his labors. At this misomblo crisis the conduct of John Hepburn, the
English sailor, was especially admirable, presenting a striking contrast
to the f;!uomy selfishness of tho Canadians. His firm reliance on the
watchf\il goodness of Goil, and a cfaoerful resignation to His will, never
for a moment forsook him ; and, animated by this bloHsed principle, his
strength appeared to be preserved as a moans of preserving the party.
He collected the tripe de roche for the officers' mess, cooked and served
it out, and showed tho most indefatigable seal in his efforts to alleviate
their sufferings.

A gleam of hope at length arose, when St. Germain completed the
canoe. It was impossible not to feel that their last chance of escape
seemed to hang upon this little bark ; would it prove suffioiont for its
purpose ? or, constructed of such wretched materials, would it not at
once sink to the bottom ? Amid this conflict of contending emotions
it was launched on tho river, and every heart bounded with exultation
when it floated, and 8t. Gennain transported himself to the opposite
side. It was drawn back, and, one by (Hie, the whole party were ferried
over, though, from the leaky state of the little bark, their garments and
bedding were completely drenched. Franklin immediately dispatched
Mr. Back and three men to push on to Fort Enterprise in aearch of
the Indians, while he himself followed with the rest.

Nothing oould exceed tho joy of the Canadian voyagenrs at this
nnlooked-for deliverance. Their spirits rose from the deepert; despond-
ency into tumultuous exaltation. They shook tho ofScera by the hand,
cricMl oi't that their worst difficulties were at an end, and expressed a
confidei t hope of being able to reach Fort Ekiterprise in the course of
a few days — a boistoroos and sudden confidence, to which the silent
gratitude and quiet resolutaoa of the psoas Hepburn presented a strik-
ing contrast.

Their tents and bed-olothcs were so madi froeen, and the men, who
had kmdled a small fire, were so weary, that it was eight in the morn-
ing before the bundles wore pocked, and the party set forward. They
traveled in sin^e files, each at a small distance from his neighbor. Mr.
Hood, who wae now nearly exhausted, was obliged to walk at a gentle
pace in the rear, Dr. Richardson kindly keeping beside him ; while

808 FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA.

Franklin led the foremost men, that he might make them halt occasion-
ally till the stragglers came up. Credit, hitherto one of their most active
hunters, became lamentably weak from the effects of tripe de roche on
bis constitution, and Vaillant, from the same cause, was getting daily
more emaciated. They only advanced six miles during the day, and at
night satisfied the cravings of hunger by a small quantity of tripe de
roche mixed up with some scraps of roasted leather. During the night
the wind increased to a strong gale, which continuing next day, filled
the atmosphere with a thick snow-drift. HaAring boiled and eaten the
remains of their old shoes, and every shred of leather which could be
picked up, they set forward at nine over bleak hills separated by equally
barren valleys.

In this manner they journeyed till noon, not without much straggling
and frequent halts, at which time Samandro came up with the melancholy
news that Credit and VaiUant had dropped down, and were utterly un-
able to proceed. Dr. Richardson went back, and discovering Vaillant
about a mile and a half in the rear, assured him that a fire was kindled
a little way on, and that he would recover if he could but reach it ; the
poor fellow struggled up on his feet, and feebly tried to advance, but
fell down every step in the deep snow. Leaving him. Dr. Richardson
retraced his steps about a mile further in a fruitless search for Credit.
In returning ho passed Vaillant, who had fallen down, utterly unable to
renew his efforts to rejoin the party. Belanger went back to carry his
burden and ajsist him to the fire ; but the cold had produced such a
numbness that he could not speak or make the slightest exertion. The
stoutest of the party were now implored to make a last effort to trans-
port him to the fire, but declared themselves utterly unable for the task.
They eagerly requested leave to throw down their loads, and proceed
with the utmost speed to Fort Enterprise — a scheme projected in the
despair of the moment, and which must have brought destruction upon
the whole.

Matters had now reached a dreadful crisis ; it was necessary to come
to an immediate decision regarding their ultimate measures, and a plan
proposed by Mr. Hood and Dr. Richardson was adopted. These gen-
tlemen consented to remain with a single attendant at the first spot
where there were sufficient firewood and tripe de roche for ten days'
consumption, while Franklin and the rest were to proceed with all ex^
pedition to Fort Enterprise, and to send immediate assistance. This
scheme prombed to relieve them of a considerable portion of their bur-
dens — for one of the tents and various other articles were to be left ; and
it gave poor Credit and Vaillant a fturer opportunity, should they re-
vive, of regaining their companions. On the resolution being communi-
cated to the men, they were cheered with the prospect of an alleviation
of their misery, and pressed forward in search of a convenient spot for
the proposed separation. Near nightfall they encamped under the lee
of a hill among some willows, which furnished a small fire, but not snf-

AR SEA.

hem halt occasion-
)f their most active
tripe de roche on
was getting daily
ag the day, and at
uantity of tripe de
During the night
ng next day, filled
iled and eaten the
er which could be
3parated by equally

)ut much straggling
yith the melancholy
id were utterly un^
iiscovering Vaillant

a fire was kindled
Id but reach it ; the
led to advance, but
lim. Dr. Richardson

search for Credit,
n, utterly unable to
t back to carry his
id produced such a
itest exertion. The

last effort to trans-
■ unable for the task.

loads, and proceed
me projected in the
ht destruction upon

as necessary to come
neasures, and a plan
dopted. These gen-
mt at the first spot
I roche for ten days'

proceed with all ex"
late assistance. This

portion of their bur-
i were to be left ; and
inity, should they re-
ition being communi-
ipect of an alleviation
a convenient spot for
lamped under the lee
smidl fire, but not su^

RICHARDSON LEFT BEHIND.

809

ficiently strong to thaw their frozen clothes ; and no (ripe de roche hav-
ing been found during the day, they lay down hungry, cold, .and full of
the gloomiest apprehensions, while sleep fled from their eyelids, and the
images of their dying companions rose before their imagination in colors
which made them shudder for a fate that might so soon become their
own. Next ihorning the weather providentially was mild, and setting
out at nine they arrived toward noon at a thicket of willows, in the
neighborhood of some rocks bearing a pretty full supply of tripe de roche.
Here Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood determined to remain. The tent
was pitched, a barrel of anununition and other articles were deposited,
and Hepburn, who volunteered the service, was appointed to continue
with them. The rest of the party now had only to carry a single tent,
the ammunition, and the oflicers' journals, in addition to their own
clothes and a single blanket for Captain Franklin, When all was ready,
the whole party united in thanksgiving and prayers to Almighty God
for their mutual preservation, and separated with the melancholy reflec-
tion that it might in all probability bo the last time they should ever
again meet in this world.

On leaving their friends. Captain Franklin and his party descended
into a more level country ; but the snow lay so deep, and they were so
little able to wade through it, that they encamped, after a painful march
of only four miles and a half, in which Belanger, and Michel, an Iroquois,
were left far behind, yet still struggling forward. In the evening they
came in dreadfiilly exhausted, and Belanger, till now one of the strongest
of the party, could not refrain from tears as he declared he was totally
unable to proceed, and implored permission to return to Dr. Richardson
and Mr. Hood. Michel made the same request, and it was agreed that
they should do so. The cold of the night was excessive, and the men
were so weak that they could not raise the tent ; from its weight it was
impossible to transport it firom place to place, and it was cut up, the can-
vas serving them for a covering ; but though they lay close together,
the intense frost deprived them of sleep. Having no tripe de roche, they
had supped upon an infusion of the Labrador tea-plant, with a few mor-
sels of burned leather. Michel and Belanger, being apparently more ex-
hausted in the morning than over night, were left, while the rest moved
forward. After a very short progress, Perrault was attacked with a fit
of dizziness ; but on halting a little, again proposed to proceed. In ten
minutes, however, he sunk down, and weeping aloud, declared his total
inability to go on. He was accordingly advised to rejoin Michel and
Belanger — ^a proposal in which he acquiesced. These examples of the
total failure of the strongest in the party had a very unfavorable effect
on the spirits of the rest, and the exertion of wading through the snow
and crossing a lake on the ice, where they were frequently blown down,
was so severe, that Fontano, after having repeatedly fallen, piteously
complained that he was utterly unable to go further. Being not two
miles from the others, it was thought best that he also should attempt

■^

810

FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY TO THE POLAR

SEA.

to rejoin tbem ; and a8 he was much beloved, the parting ^vas vey d^

re2g. The; watched him for Bome time, *"d were comforted by

seetagiat, though his progress was very slow, he kept las feet better

'^*The wLe party was now reduced to five persons, Captain Franklin,
Adam, Peltier, Benoit, and Samandr6, the interpreter Augustus havmg
pres"d forward by hi^iself during the tete frequent halts. They made
fha day only four^mUes and a half, and encamped for the mght under a
rock, suppmg again on an infusion of the Labrador tea-plant and some
Treds of bailed leather. The evemng was comparatively mdd the
breeze hght, and havmg the comfort of a fire, they enjoyed Bome sleep
This was of infinite advantage ; it gave them new spints, wh>ch were
further invigorated by a breakfast of tripe de rocAc,this bemg the four^
day since they had a regular meal. On reachmg Marten Lake they
found it frozen over-a circumstance which they knew would enable
them to walk upon the ice straight to Fort Enterprise.

It may be easUy imagined what were the sensations ot the party in
approaSg the sp'ot whISi they trusted would be the ^-^^^f.^^l

toUs and privations. From the a"-'»g«™«"*t TT^ ^ w 1 IS
judged certain that they would here find rehef, and be able to ^^
Lsince to their unfortunate companions It was » «P0^^ f ^^S
had enjoyed, at a former period of the expedition, the greatest comfort,
but it vi i^ssible, though they scarcely permitted themselves to con-
template so^^readf^l an idea, that circumstances -g^^^*- o--;^^^
defeat their present expectations. On approa^hmg the house the r mmds
were strongly agitated between hope and fear, and contrary o the^
Lai custom; th^y advanced in silence. At length they je^ched i^^d
their worst apprehensions were reaUzed. It was completely desolate.
No prvisions^ad been deposited-no trace f^^^f^''^^ Jl
covered-no letter lay there from Mr. Wentzel to inform them where
the Indians might be found. On entering, a mute despair seized the
party. They gazed on the cold hearth, comforUess waHs, and broken

Lies, through which the wind and snow P<^"«f *«^ *f ^^^^^^"'"^^
a full sense of the horrors of their situation, burst into tears. On r^
covering a little, and looking round with more attention, a note waj
rSm Mr. Back, stating'that havmg two days before ^h^ reached
the house, he had proceeded in search of the Indians ; but described Ins
party as so debilitated that it was doubtful whether theyj.°»l^^^;/^^«
to reach Fort Providence. The sufferbgs endured by ^^ ^^f ' Jjf
his little party, one of whom was frozen to death, were equally dreadful
with those wliich fell to the share of his commander.

The poor sufferers thus grievously disappointed, now exammed the
deserted habitation for the means of subsistence, ^nd found several dee^
skins thrown away during their former residence at the fort. The hea^
of ashes were carefully raked, and a considerable collection of bones dis-
covered, which were hoarded up for the purpose of bemg pomided and

LAB SEA.

arting was very di»-
wero comforted by
lept Ilia feet better

is, Captain F.-anklin,

ter Augustus having

halts. They made

or the night under a

T tea-plant and some

paratively mild, the

enjoyed some sleep.

r spirits, which were

this being the fourth

r Marten Lake they

knew would enable

rise.

tions of the party in
the end of all their
eviously made, it was
and be able to send
ras a spot where they
the greatest comfort ;
ed themselves to con-
ight have occurred to
r the house their minds
and contrary to their
h they reached it, and
! completely desolate.
' Indians could be dis-
to inform them where
ite despair seized the
less walls, and broken
ted, and awakening to
rst into tears. On re-
attention, a note was
ays before this reached
ians ; but described his
ler they would be able
•ed by this officer and
, were equally dreadful
ler.

ited, now examined the
and found several deer-
at the fort. The heaps
collection of bones dis-
of being pounded and

8UPFERINGS AT FORT ENTERPRISE.

311

manufactured into soup. Tlie parchment originally employed instead
of glass had been torn from the windows, and the place was exposed to
all the inclemency of an arctic whiter ; but they succeeded in iiiling the
sashes with loose boards, and as the temperature of the outer air was
now from 15" to 20° below zero, this precaution was csjiccially neces-
sary. To procure water, they melted the frozen lumps of snow, and the
flooring of the neighboring apartment was broken up for fuel.

Having completed these arrangements, they assembled round the
fire, and were busy singeing the hair ofi' a deer-skin, when they wore
cheered by the entrance of the interpreter, who had made his way to
the fort by a different route, through a country ho had never traversed
before. Though by far the strongest of the party, he was now so en-
feebled by famine that he could not follow two deer which he had seen
on Ins way. Next morning there was a heavy gale from the south-east,
and the snow drifted so thick that no one ventured abroad. On the
evening of the succeeding day, a figure covered with ice, benumbed with
cold, and almost speechless, staggered into the house. It was one of the
Canadians, who had been dispatched with a note by Mr. Back, and hav-
ing fallen into a rapid narrowly escaped being drowned. To change his
dress, wrap him in warm blankets, and pour some soup down his throat,
was their first care ; and after a little he revived enough to answer the
anxious questions with which he was assailed. From his replies but
little comfort was derived. Mr. Back had seen no trace of the Indians,
and the messenger's recollection appeared confused with regard to the
part of the country where he had left his officer, who, as he stated, in-
tended to proceed to the spot where the Indian chie^ Akaitcho, had en-
camped last summer — a distance of about thirty miles. Thither he pro-
posed to follow when be was a little recruited ; and, though dissuaded
from the attempt, persisted that as the track was beaten he would bo
able to make it out, and to convey intelligence of the situation of Cap-
tain Franklin's party. Accordingly, the fifth day after his arrival, he
departed from the fort with a small supply of singed hide.

Not long after, Adam, one of the five men who now remained with
Captain Franklin, became so ill that he was utterly incapable of moving,
and it was discovered that be had been for some time afflicted with
oedematous swellings in various parts of his body, which he bad hitherto
generously concealed, from a wish not to impede the movements of his
companions. As it was impossible for this poor man to travel, it was
necessary to abandon the original intention of proceeding with the whole
party to Fort Providence, and Peltier and Samandre, who were in almost
as weak a state, having expressed a wbh to remain with Adam, Captain
Franklin, along with Augustus and Benoit, determined to press on to
Fort Providence, and to send relief to their companions by the first
party of Indians they should meet.

Having accordingly given directions regarding the journals and
charts which were left in their custody, and the best mode of forward-

312 FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA.

iiig succor to Mr. Hood and Dr. Richardson, Franklin set forward with
his two attendants ; but so feeble had they become, that the distance
accomplished in six hours was only four miles. They encamped on the
borders of Round Rock Lake, and, unable to find any tripe de roche,
made their supper upon fried deer-skin. The night proved intensely
cold, and although they crept as close to each other as possible, they
shivered in every limb, and the wind pierced through their famished
frannes. Next morning was mild, and they set out early, but hud scarce
])roceeded a few yards, when Franklin fell between two rocks, and
broke his snow-shoes, an accident which incapacitated him from keeping
up with Bcnoit and Augustus. In a very short time his attempt to press
forward completely exhausted him ; and as the only hope of preserving
the lives of the party appeared to rest on their speedily reachmg Fort
Providence, he determined, rather than retard them, to retrace his steps
to the house, while they pi-oceeded for assistance. Calling a moment's
halt, he addressed one note to Mr. Back, requesting an immediate sup-
ply of meat from Reindeer Lake, and another to the commandant at
Fort Providence, with urgent entreaties for assistance. This done, Au-
gustus and Benoit resumed their journey, and Franklin returned to the
house.

On arriving, he found Adam, Saraandre, and Peltier still alive ; but
the two first, whose minds seemed quite enfeebled, could not be prevailed
on to leave their bed, and their nervous weakness was so great, that
they scarcely ceased shedding tears all day. It was even with difficulty
that they were prevailed on to take any nourishment ; and the labor of
cutting and carrying fuel, gathering the tripe de roche, and cooking, fell
entirely upon Franklin and Peltier. The frost was now so severe, that
it was evident this lichen would soon be bound up in ice, and as their
strength daily declined, every exertion became irksome. When once
seated, it required a painful effort to rise up, and not unfrequently they
had to lift each other from their chairs. Tliis miserable condition could
not last long. Peltier soon became almost incapable of holding the
hatchet ; the bone-soup had become so acrid as to corrode the inside
of their mouths ; the tripe de rochet covered with ice, defied all efforts to
detach it from the rock ; and though the reindeer sported on the banks
of the river, no one had strength to go after them, or to hold a gun so
steadily as to secure an aim.

Still the hopes and cheerfulness of Franklin did not desert him.
From his knowledge of the places most frequented at that season by
the Indians, he was sanguine as to the likelihood of their being found ;
and their speedy arrival formed a constant subject of conversation. At
length, on the evening of the 29th, when talking of his long-looked-for
relief, and sitting round the fire, Peltier suddenly leaped up and uttered
a joyful exclamation, imagining he heard the bustle of the Indians in
the adjoining room. It was not the Indians, however, but Dr. Richard-
son and Hepburn, who came in, each carrying his bimdle. The meeting

R SEA.

et forward with
that the distance
ncampcd on tho
y tripe de roche,
proved intensely
as possible, they
1 their famished
y, but hiid scarce
two rocks, and
im from keeping
1 attempt to press
)pe of preserving
ly reaching Fort
» retrace his steps
lling a moment's
1 immediate sup-
; commandant at
This done, Au-
i returned to the

jr still alive ; but
d not be prevsuled
ras so great, that
i^en with difficulty
and the labor of
, and cooking, fell
)w 80 severe, that
ice, and as their
me. When once
unfrequently they
e condition could
le of holdmg the
iorrode the inside
lefied all efforts to
rted on the banks
to hold a gun so

1 not desert him.
at that season by
leir being found ;
conversation. At
lis long-looked-for
ed up and uttered
of the Indians in
, but Dr. Richard-
die. The meetmg

THE EXAMPLE OF HEPBURN.

318

was one of mingled joy and sorrow. Poor Hood's absence was instantly
perceived, and their saddest anticipations were confirmed by Dr. Rich-
ardson declaring that this young officer and Michel were do.id, and that
neither Perrault nor Fontano had reached the tent, or boon hoard of.
Such news could not fail to create despondency. All were (shocked at
the emaciated countenances and hollow voices of Dr. Richardson and
his companion, while Captain Franklin and his fellow-sufferers, having
become gradually accustomed to the dreadful effects of famine ujioii each
other, were not aware that, to the eyes of their friends v.ho liad just
arrived, the alteration upon themselves was equally melancholy. " The
doctor," says Franklin, " particularly remarked the sepulchral tone of
our voices, which he requested us to make more cheerful if possible,
not aware that his own partook of the same key."

The arrival of these friends, however, was soon .ittended with a fav-
orable chajige. Though greatly reduced, they were still in a better con-
dition than their unfortunate companions, and it was not long till Hep-
bum shot a partridge. Dr. Richardson speedily tore off the feathers,
and having held it for a few minutes at the tire, divided it mto six
pieces. Franklin and his companions ravenously devoured their por-
tions, " being the first morsel of flesh that any of them liad tasted for
thirty-one days ;" and Dr. Richardson cheered them Mith the prospect
that Hepburn might possibly bring in a deer ui his next expedition.
The counsels and example of this pious and intelligent man produced
t)ie best effects on the spirits of the party. He had brought with him
his Testament and Prayer-book, and by reading portions of Scripture
appropriate to their situation, and encouraging them to join in prayer
and thanksgiving, he led them to the only source whence, under the
awful circumstances in which they were placed, they could derive hope
or consolation. He taught them the necessity of exertion, whatever
pain it might at first cost ; roused them to pay some attention to the
cleanliness of their apartment, and insisted particularly, that during the
day they should roll up their blankets, which they had been in the prac-
tice of leaving beside the fire where they slept. Their several tasks were
now allotted to each : Hepburn and Richardson went out in search of
deer ; while Franklin, being unable to walk far, remained nearer the
house, and digged under the snow for skins, which, during their former
happy winter residence at this station, when they killed and ate abund-
ance of game, were thrown away as useless, but now in their almost pu-
trid state formed their principal suppoit. The cutting of firewood was
intrusted to Peltier and Samandre ; but both were so weak and dispirited,
that it was generally performed by Hepburn on his return from huntuig ;
as for Adam, his legs were still so severely swollen that he kept his bed,
though an operation performed by Dr. Richardson gave him some ease.
In the midst of these necessary cares, all seemed for a while to dread
approaching the subject of Hood and Michel's death ; but at length one
evening, on the return of the doctor from hunting, and afler having

■€

prr

814 FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA.

dispatched their usual supper of singed skin and bone-soup, they re-
quested him to relate the particdars; and a more afflicting, or, in some
Respects, a more terrific story, as it appears m his pubUshed narrative,
could not well be conceived. .

He stated that after being left by Captain Franklin, they remamed
beside the fire as long as i!t lasted. Having no tripe de roche they sup-
ped on an infusion of the country tea-plant, which was grateM from its
warmth, but afforded no nourishment, and retired to rest, f ext day
proved stonny, and the snow being so deep that a fire could not be
kindled with the green willows, they lay in bed reading some religious
books with which the party had been furnished before leavmg England
by the affectionate and pious caro of a lady. "Tl.ey proved^' says
Richardson, " of incalculable benefit to us. We read portions of them
to each other as we lay in bed, in addition to the morning and evenmg
service, and found that thoy inspired us on each perusal with so strong a
sense of the omnipresence of a beneficent God, that our situation in these
wUds appeared no longer destitute; and we conversed not only with
calmness, but with cheerfulness, detaiUng with unrestrained confadenco
the past events of our lives, and dwelling with hope upon our future

'"'''The weather clearing up. Dr. Richardson went out in search of tripe
de roche, leaving Mr. Hood in bed, and Hepburn cuttmg willows for a
fire- but the rocks were covered with ice and snow, and he was un-
successful. On his return he fomid Michel, the Iroquois, who dehvered
the note from Franklin. All were surprised to see him alone ; but he
stated that Belanger had separated from him, and, as .»^« «"PP«««"Vlo8t
his way, ho himself having wandered far from the straight road. They
had afterward good reason to suspect the truth of this story, but be-
lieved it at that moment, and were rejoiced to see him produce a hare
and a partridge-a:. unlooked-for supply, which they received with
humble thankfulness to the Giver of all good. ^Frankhn's note adv»ed
them to advance to a little wood of pmes which would afford better
fuel ; and to this they removed under the gmdance of Michel, who led

them strjught to the spot. , . , ., * „

As he had declared hunself so little acquainted with the country as
to lose his way, it seemed strange that he should at once conduct them
to the thicket. This roused their attention, and made them feel rather
uneasy as to his honesty ; and various circumstances occurred to mcrease
their suspicions. He requested the loan of a hatchet when any other
hunter would have taken only his knife. He remained abroad aU day
without any definite employment. He brought them some raw mea^
saying it was part of the carcase of a wolf, but which they had afterward
reason to beUeve was a portion of the bodies of Belanger and Perrault,
whom they suspected him to have murdered. He shunned the society
of Dr Richardson and Mr. Hood, refusing to sleep in the tent, and pre.
ferring to lie alone at the fire. On gomg out with the purpose ot re-

^^ . iiilitWWi . iii n iiii

R SEA.
e-80up, they re-

ing,

or, in some

ished narrative,

, they remained
roche, they sap-
rrateM from its
rest. Next day
re could not be
r Bomo religious
leaving England
jy proved," says
)ortion8 of them
ling and evening
with so strong a
situation in these
;d not only with
iiined confidence
upon our future

in search of fnpe
ing willows for a
r, and he was un-
)iB, who delivered
im alone ; but he
he supposed, lost
ught road. They
this story, but be-
n T>roduce a hare
By received with
tlin's note advised
ould afford better
f Michel, who led

'ith the country as
>nce conduct them
o them feel rather
scurred to uicrease
!t, when any other
ed abroad all day
\ some raw meat,
hey had afterward
iger and Perrault,
imined the society
the tent, and pre-
the purpose of re-

MURDEB OF MR. HOOD.

816

maining a whole day, he often returned abruptly, and when questioned
gave vague answers. In a few days ho began to regret that he had left
Captain Franklin's party, refused to take any share in the labor of cut-
ting wood, talked in a surly and insolent manner, and could scarcely be
prevailed upon to go out and hunt at all. These symptoms of gloomy
dissatisfaction increased ; ho resisted all entreaties, and when Mr. Hood,
who was now reduced by fiunuie to the last extremity, remonstrated
with him, he flew uito a violent passion, and exclaimed, " It is of no use
hunting ; there are no animals ; you had better kill and eat me." Ho
afterward, however, consented to go out, but returned upon some frivol-
ous pretense; and on the succeeding day that dreadful catastrophe
took place, which will be best given in the words of Dr. Richardson's
journal :

*■'■ In the morning," eaya he, *' being Simday, October 20th, we agun
urged Michel to go a-htmting, that he might, if possible, leave us some
provision, to-morrow being the day appointed for his quitting us ; but he
showed great unwillingness to go out, and lingered about the fire under
the pretense of cleaning his gun. After we had read the morning service,
I went about noon to gather some tripe de roche^ leaving Mr. Hood sit-
ting before the tent at the fireside arguing with Michel. Hepburn was
employed cutting down a tree at a small distance from the tent, being
desirous of accumulating a quantity of firewood. A short time after I
went out, I heard the report of a gun, and about ten minutes afterward
Hepburn called to me in a voice of great alarm to come directly. When
I arrived, I found poor Hood lying lifeless at the fireside, a ball having
apparently entered his forehea^. I was at first horror-struck with the
idea that in a fit of despondency he had hurried himself into the pres-
ence of his Almighty Judge by an act of bis own hand ; but the con-
duct of Michel soon gave rise to other thoughts, and excited suspicions
which were confirmed, when, upon examining the body, I found that
the shot had entered the back part of the head and had passed out at
the forehead, while the muzzle of the gun had been applied so close uh
to set fire to the nightcap behind. The gun, which was of the longest
kind supplied to the Indians, could not have been placed in the position
to inflict such a wound except by a second person. Upon inquiring of
Michel how it happened, ho replied that Mr. Hood had sent him into
the tent for the short gun, and that during his absence the long gun
had gone off, he did not know whether by accident or not. He held
the short gun in his hand at the time he was speaking. Hepburn after-
ward asserted, that previous to the report of the gun, Mr. Hood and
Michel were speaking to each other in an elevated, angry tone ; — he
added, that Mr. Hood being seated at the fireside, was hid from him by
intervening willows ; but that on hearing the report he looked up, and
saw Michel rising up from before the tent-door, or just behind where
Mr. Hood was seated, and then going into the tent. Thinking that the
gun had been discharged for the purpose of cleaning it, he did not go

816

FRANKLIN'S JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA.

to the firo at first ; and when Michel called to hiia that Mr. Hood waa
dead, a considerable time had elapsed. ♦ ♦ * Bickersteth's Scripture
Help was lying open beside the body, as if it had fallen from hia hand,
and it is probable he was reading it at the instant of his death."

Such was the melancholy fate of Mr. Hood, a young officer of the
highest promise, who, by his conduct, had endeared himself to every
member of the expedition, and whoso sufferings, as they were more in-
tense, from the peculiarity of his constitution, were borne with a placid
and unpretending fortitude, which it was impossible to contemplate
without emotion. Both Dr. Richardson and Hepburn were convinced
he had met his death from the hands* of Michel ; but to have accused
him at that moment would have been the extremity of rashness. They
were so reduced by famine that he could easily have overpowered both.
His appearance showed that he possessed secret supplies of food ; he was
of great bodily strength, and was armed to the teeth, carrying, besides
his gun, a brace of pistols, an Indian bayonet, and a knife. To have
hinted a suspicion, therefore, might have been instantly fatal, and they
affected to consider the death of their companion entirely accidental.
As his weakness had been the chief cause of delaying their journey, they
now set out for the fort, having first paid the last rites to the dead in
the only way which their situation would permit. The ground was so
hard, and their strength so exhausted, that to dig a grave was impos-
sible ; so they carried the body into the willow grove behind the tent,
and retummg to the fire, read the funeral scr\'ice in addition to their
evening devotions.

In the morning, having singed the hair off a portion of Mr. Hood's
buffalo robe, they boiled and ate it for breakfast. Meanwhile, the con-
duct of Michel was so extraordinary, that had they not been already
convinced of his guilt, no doubt of it could have remained. Though
not a breath of their suspicions reached his ears, he repeatedly protested
that he was incapable of committing such an act ; he kept constantly on
his guard, appeared fearful of leaving Dr. Richardson and Hepburn
alone even for the shortest time, and when Hepburn spoke he listened
anxiously, though very imperfectly acquainted with the English lan-
guage, fixed his eyes keenly upon him, and asked fiercely if he accused
him of the murder. He evinced great unwillingness to set out for the
fort, and wished Dr. Richardson to proceed to the Coppermine River,
where he said the woods would supply plenty of deer. On finding this
advice disregarded, his conduct became more and more alarming ; he
muttered to himself, fell into sullen fits of abstraction, and used those
convulsive and abrupt gestures often involuntarily exhibited by a person
whose mind is full of some dreadful purpose. Suddenly awakening from
thb reverie, he again expressed his unwillingness to return to the fort,
and renewed his solicitations to Dr. Richardson to repair to the southern
woods, where they would find ample subsistence. On being requested
to pursue his own plan alone, and leave them to continue their journey,

Mir*iByrfif - *—-

SEA.

Ir. IIoo'l was
th'8 Scripturo
from hia hand,
eath."

officer of the
nself to every

were more in-
a with a placid

contemplate
Fere convinced

have accused
ishncss. They
rpowered both,
•ffood; he was
rrying, besides
jiife. To have
fatal, and they
rely accidental,
r journey, they

to the dead in
ground was so
ive was impos-
)ehind the tent,
ddition to their

of Mr. Hood's
iwhile, the con-
it been already
vined. Though
ktedly protested
)t constantly on

1 and Hepburn
)oke he listened
he English lan-
ly if he accused
9 set out for the
ppermine River,

On finding this
re alarming ; he
, and used those
Lted by a person
aAvakening from
urn to the fort,
' *,o the southern
being requested
le their journey,

RICHARDSON SHOOTS MICHEL.

817

he broke into an ungovernable fury, accused Hepburn of having told
stories against him, and assumed such airs of superiority as showed that
he knew they were both in his power, at the same time giving vent to
expressions of hatred against the white people, calling them deadly
enemies, an4 affirming they had killed and eaten his uncle and two of
his relations.

None of these menaces -were lost upon Richardson and He[»l>um ;
both felt they were not safe in this man's company ; and those dreadful
surmises rose into certainty when he threw out hints that he wojild free
himself from all restraint on the morrow. Being now convinced that, as
he had cruelly murdered Hood, he was resolved also to sacrifice them,
they ascribed his not having already done so to the circumstance of his
not knowing the way to the fort, and requiring their guidance. They
came to this conclusion without any communication with each other ;
for their fierce companion would not leave them a moment, wjitching
them with a malignant look, and frequently muttering threats against
Hepburn. Toward evening, as they approached the spot where it would
be necessary to stop for the night, Michel halted to gather tripe de rochet
and to their surprise bade them walk on, and he would soon overtake
them. Hepburn and Dr. Richardson, now left alone together for the
first time since Mr. Hood's death, rapidly opened their minds to each
other. In addition to the facts already mentioned, others came to light,
which left not the slightest doubt as to Michel's guilt ; and so connnced
was Hepburn of there being no safety for them but in his death, that,
though a man of extreme benevolence and deep religious principle, ho
offered to bo the instrument of it himself. " Had my own life," says
Dr. Richardson, " alone been threatened, I would not have purchased it
by such a measure ; but I considered myself as intrusted also with the
protection of Hepburn's, a man who by his humane attentions and de-
votedness had so endeared himself to me, that I felt more anxiety for his
safety than for my own." Animated by such feelings, and convinced
that Michel's death was necessary to self-preservation, he determined
that it ought to be by his own and not by Hepburn's hand, and on hia
coming up shot him through the head with a pistol. It appeared that
he had gathered no tripe de roche, and had halted to put his gun in
or^er, no doubt with the intention of attacking them when in the act of
encamping.

Dr. Richardson and Hepburn now pursued their way to the fort ;
but fatigue, and want of food and fuel, had nearly proved fatal to them.
They remarked, however, that repeatedly when death seemed inevita-
ble, an unexpected supply of provisions again restored them ; and the
confidence that, when no human help was nigh, they were supported by
a mercifiil God, inspired them with renewed hope. At last they had the
delight of beholding from an eminence the smoke issuing from the chim-
ney of the fort, and immediately after, embracing those friends for whoso

mm*'

818 FRANKLIN'S JOURNET TO THE POLAR SEA.

fatu they had entertained so many melancholy forebodings. So ended
this interesting narrative.

The whole party were now once more united, but under circum-
stances of the most distressing privation ; all emaciated to such a degree
as to look like living skeletons ; their hands shook from weakness, so
that to take an aim was impossible ; and the reindeer, partridges, and
other game, flew or bounded past in joyousness and security, while the
unhappy beings who beheld them were gaunt with hunger. The winter
was closing in with all its horrors ; it became daily more diflicult to pro-
cure fuel, the labor of cutting and carrying the logs being so grievous
that only Dr. Richardson and Hepburn could undertake it ; and to scrape
the ground for bones, and to cook this miserable meal, was all Captain
Franklin could accomplish. On the Ist of November the doctor ob-
tained some tripe de roche ; and as Peltier and Samandro were in the
last stage of exhaustion, it was hoped a little of the soup might revive
them. All was in vain; they tasted a few spoonfuls, but soon com-
plained of a soreness in their throats, and both died in the course of the
night, apparently without pain. To inter the bodies, or even carry them
to the river, was a task for which the imitcd strength of the survivors
was inadequate ; all they could do was to remove them into an opposite
part of the house ; and the living and the dead remuned in awful con-
tiguity under the same roof.

The party was now reduced to four — ^Franklin, Richardson, Hepburn,
and Adam. The last had become dreadfuUy low rince the death of his
companions, and could not bear to be left done for a moment. Their
stock of bones was exhausted, and in a short time it was evident that the
severity of the frost must render the gathering of the tripe de roche im-
possible. Under these circumstances, with death by famine approaching
every hour, this little band of pious and brave men were supported by
an unwavering reliance on the mercy of God. •* We read prayers," says
Captain Franklin, "and a portion of the New Testament in the morning
and evening, as had been our practice since Dr. Richardson's arrival ;
and I may remark, that the performance of these duties always afforded
us the greatest consolation, serving to reanimate our hope in the meroy
of the Omnipotent, who alone could save and deUver us." Hitherto Dr.
Richardson and Hepburn had been the healtliicst of (he party, but they
had ovcrnTOught themselves, and both sank rapidly. Owing to their
loss of flesh, the hardness of the floor, from which they were only pro-
tected by a single blanket, rendered the whole surface of their bodies
sore ; yet the labor of turning from one side to the other was too much
for them. As their strength sank, their mental faculties partook of the
weakness of their frame ; and, to employ the candid and simple expres-
sions of the excellent leader, ** an unreasonable pettiahness with each
other began to manifest itself, each believing the other weaker in intel-
Icct than himself, and more in need of advice and assistance." During
this gloomy period, after the first acute pains of hunrjcr, which lasted

El SEA.

iiigfl. So ended

t under circura-
;o such a degree
am weakness, so

partridges, and
3urity, while the
er. The winter
) difficult to pro-
eing so grievous
it; and to scrape
, was all Captwn

the doctor ob-
idro were in the
rap might revive
, but soon com-
the course of the

even carry them

of the survivors
I into an opposite
ned in awfiU con-

ardson, Hepburn,
the death of his
moment. Their
s evident that the
tripe de roche im-
nune approaching
ere supported by
sad prayers," says
nt in the morning
iiardson's arrival;
)S always afforded
liope in the mercy
18." Hitherto Dr.
ie party, but they
Owing to their
ley were only pro-
se of their bodies
;her was too much
jes partook of the
and simple expres-
biahness with each
ler weaker in intel-
sistance." During
n^'cr, Avhich lasted

THE SURVIVORS ARE SAVED.

819

but three or four days, had subsided, they generally enjoyed the re-
freshment of sleep, accompanied by dreams which for the most part par-
took of a pleasant cliaracter, and very often related to the pleasures of
feasting.

On November Tth, Adam had passed a restless night, being dis-
quieted by gloomy apprehensions of approaching death, which they tried
in vnin to di8|)el. He was so low in the morning as scarcely to bo ablo
to speak, and Captain Franklin remained by his bedside to cheer him as
much as possible, while the doctor and Hepburn went out to cut wood.
They had hardly begun their labor when they were amaxed at hearing
the report of a musket, and could scarcely believe that there was any
one near till they heard a shout, and espied three Indians close to tbo
house. Adam and Franklin heard the latter noise, and were fearful
that some part of the house had fallen upon one of their companions — a
disaster which had been thought not unlikely. Tlie alarm was only
momentary; for Dr. Richardson came in to communicate the joyful
intelligence that relief had arrived. Ho and Captain Franklin imme-
diately addressed their thanksgivings to the Throne of Mercy for this
deliverance ; but poor Adam was in so low a state that he could scarcely
comprehend the information. When the Indians entered, he attempted
to rise, but immediately sank down again. But for this seasonable
interposition of Providence, his existence must have terminated in a few
hours, and that of the rest probably in not many days.

The Indians who had been dispatched by Mr. Back, had traveled
with great expedition, and brought a small supply of provisions. They
imprudently presented too much food at first ; and though aware of the
effects which might arise from a surfeit, and warned by Dr. Richardson
to eat very sparingly, the sight of the venison was irresistible ; and it
was devoured by them all, not excluding the doctor himself, with an
avidity that soon produced the most acute pjms, Avhich during the night
deprived them of rest. Adam, whose weakness rendered him unable to
feed himself was not subjected to the some inconvenience, and taking
moderate meals, revived hourly. All now was thankfulness and cheerful
activity. Boudel-kell, the youngest Indian, after an hour's rest, returned
to the encampment of Akaitcho, the Dog-rib chief, carying a note from
Captain Franklin, and a request for another supply of provisions. The
two others, named in their familiar manner Crooked Foot and the Rat,
remained to nurse the white men. Under their care the apartment
lately so desolate, and something between a sepulchcr and a lazar-house,
awnmed a gladdened look, which had the best effect. The dead bodies
were removed, the room cleaned of its filth and fragments of pounded
bones, and large cheerful fires produced a sensation of comfort to which
they had long been strangers. Tlie poor sufferers had often cast a wish-
ful eye on a pile of dried wood near the river, but were utterly unable
to carry it up the bank. When pointed out to the Indians, they fetched
it homo with a rapidity which astonished their feeble friends. " They

■auMMfpi

! •

820

PRANKLIN'8 JOURNET TO THE POLAR SEA.

set about every thing," says Franklin, " witli an activity which amazed
us. Indeed, contrasted with our emaciated figures and extreme de-
hility, their frames appeared to us gigantic, and their strength super-
natural."

Under the care of the Indians, and the blessing of wholesome and
regular meals, the strength of the party was so ftr restored, that, al-
though still feeble, on the 10th, after having imited in prayer and
thanksgiving to God for their deliverance, they left Fort Enterprise —
a spot where, as they had formerly enjojed much comfort if not hap[)i-
ness, they had latterly experienced a degree of misery scarcely to bo
paralleled. Tlie Indians treated them with imremitting kindness, gave
them their own snow-shoos, and walked at their side to bo ready to lift
them up when they fell. In this manner they jnished forward to the
abode of Akaitcho, the Indian chief, who welcomed them with the ut-
most hospitality. Soon after they received letters from their friends at
Fort Providence, and the messenger also brought two trains of dogs, a
package of spirits and tobacco for the Indians, and a supply of shirts and
clothes for Captain Franklin and his companions. Tlic gratification of
changing their linen, which had been iminterruptedly worn ever since
their departure from the sea-coast, is described as conveying an intensity
of comfort to which no words can do justice. From this spot their pro-
gress to Fort Providence and thence to Montreal was prosperous and
easy ; and thus terminated their long, fatiguing, and disastrous travels
in North America, having journeyed by water and by land, including
their navigation of the Polar Sea, five thousand five hundred and fifty
miles.

Notwithstanding the appalling eufierings which he had endured,
Franklin had not been at liome a year, before, hearing of the determi-
nation of the government to make another effort at discovering a north-
ern passage, he volunteered his 8er\'iccs. Dr. Richardson, also, ofiTered
to accompany him, and undertake the survey of the coast between the
Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, while Franklin made the attempt to
reach Icy Cape. These offers were accepted, and the expedition was
fitted out with a liberality and forethought which secured them against
such terrible disasters as had befallen the former. They sailed from
Liverpool in February, 1825, and proceeded to the Arctic regions by
way of New York, Niagara, Lake Superior, and Lake Winnipeg. They
did not reach the banks of Mackenzie's River before the middle of Au-
gust, where, as it was too late to conunence the work of exploration,
they established their winter quarters, which they called Fort Franklin.
Lieutenant Back superintended the erection of these buildingp, while
Franklin descended the Mackenzie to the Polar Sea, and Richardson
set off on an exploring tour to the head waters of Dease's River. Both
parties returned to the fort in September, and there passed the winter
in comparative comfort.

They set out on the 15th of Jime, 1826, and descended the Macken-

WBai

-«i&i

.«^

A SEA.

f which amazed
id extromo de-
Btrcugth Buper-

wholesomo and
jstored, that, al-
in prayer aiid
jrt Enterprise —
)rt if not happi-
ly scarcely to be
I kindness, gave
bo ready to lift
forward to the
[lem with the ut-
1 their friends at
trains of dogs, a
iply of shirts and
gratification of
worn ever since
ying an intensity
is spot their pro-
,8 prosperous and
disastrous travels
y land, including
undred and fifty

be had endured,
of the determi-
jcovering a north-
Ison, also, offered
3ast between the
de the attempt to
le expedition was
ired them against
They sailed from
\rctio regions by
Winnipeg. They
he middle of Au-
rk of exploration,
ed Fort Franklin,
e buildingp, while
I, and Richardson
ise's River. Both
passed the winter

oded the Macken-

FRANKLIN'S SECOND JOURNEY.

821

zio Rivor nearly to its mouth, when the two purtiis Hcparatcd, Franklin
making westward along the coast for Icy Cupi-, whilo Dr. Richardson
steered eastward, for the mouth of the Coppermine. Tlie former con-
tinued to advance along the coast until he had passed tin. boundary lino
between Jtritish America and the Russian possessions, when lie encoun-
tered much drift ice. The weather was foggy and cohl ; his frail boats
Avere leaky and unsafe, and signs of winter began to appear, so that ho
prudently commenced his retiu'n on the 18th of August. At this time
Captain iJeechcy, who had been sent out by way of Behring's Straits,
to effect a conununicatiou with lilni, was only a hundred and forty-six
miles to the westward, but a largo body of ico intervened. Dr. Rich-
ardson wtis more successful, lie followed the coast for a distance of
five hundred and filly miles, reached the mouth of the Coppermine
River without accident, and returned to Fort Franklin by tho Ist of
September. Franklin arrived soon afterward, and tho united expedition
returned to England. They reached Liverpool in September, 1827,
having been absent two years and eight months. Tho most interesting
portion of this journey was their intercourse with tho various tribes of
Esquimaux, on the shores of the Polar Sea ; but the limits of this article
will not permit us to copy the spirited narratives of tho two command-
ers. They were frequently on tho verge of hostilities, but fortunately
extricated themselves without tho shedding of blood. There was no
serious accident duiing the whole course of the expedition, and if Frank-
lin did not push his explorations as far westward as ho hoped, he had
certainly cause to be grateful to the Providence which preserved him
and bis party from tho porila and sufferings of his first journey.

MEYENDORFF'S

JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

The commercial relations which have for a long time existed between
Russia and the Kingdom of Bokhara — the most powerful state of what
is called Independent Tartary — have been greatly extended during the
present century. Envoys from the Khan of Bokhara had occasionally
visited St. Petersburg, and when, in the year 1820, one of them ex-
pressed a desire, on the part of his master, to see a Russian embassy in
Bokhara, the Emperor Alexander determined not to neglect so favorable
an opportunity of developing more fully the commerce which was spring-
ing up between the two countries, as well as of obtaining information
concerning a region which had rarely been visited by Europeans. He
therefore appointed M. de Negri, actmg Counselor of State, as Envoy
to the Khan of Bokhara, accompanied by Baron Mcyendorff, who was
charged with the task of collecting geographical and statistical informa-
tion concerning Tartary, Dr. Pander, naturalist, and three interpreters
of Orenbourg. After the return of the mission. Baron Meyendorff wrote
in French an account of the journey, which was published in Paris in the
year 1827. The following abridgment is given in the author's own
language, omitting merely those portions which are of little general in-
terest :

We received orders to make our preparations in the month of
June, 1820, and by the following August were in Orenbourg, a city fif-
teen hundred miles distant from St. Petersburg. As we were to tra-
verse immense steppes, frequented only by wandering hordes, the govern-
ment furnished us with an escort consicting of two hundred Cossacks
and two hundred infantry, to which were added twenty-five Bashkir
troopers. We took with us two pieces of artillery ; three hundred and
fifty-eight camels carried the baggage ; altogether we had four hundred
horses. It required six weeks at Orenbourg to make preparations for
the journey and to supply our troop with every thing necessary for the
passage of the desert. It was decided that the provisions should be
transported on camels, and that but twenty-five chariots would be taken

mS«

824

MEYENDORPP'S JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

along, for the men who might fall sick or he wounded on the route.
Each chariot was drawn by three horses, and driven by a Bashkir. As
wc would have to cross some rivers in the steppe of the Kirghizes, wo
were furnished with two boats.

A two-month's march hi the desert would require for each soldier
one hundred and five pounds of biscuit, and for each horse four quiritals
of oats, besides the oatmeal for the troops ; a double supply of ammu-
nition for our two pieces of artillery ; fifteen kibitkas or felt tents ; two
hundred casks for carrying water in the deserts ; and finally, several
kegs of brandy. Three hundred and twenty camels were loaded with
the provisions of the escort, and thirty-eight with the baggage and pro-
visions of the persons attached to the embassy. The export of Russian
money being prohibited, it was necessary to procure ducats ; but the
merchants of Orenbourg had not a sufficient quantity of them ; search
was then made in TroKtsk, a city four hundred miles distant ; but this
attempt failing, a courier was finally dispatched to Moscow, who ob-
tained the required sum at the exchange in that city, after an additional
journey of a thousand miles.

Many unforeseen delays thus combined to prevent our departure
until the fine season was past, and now the frosts appeared, the bad
weather began, and rain, snow, and hail succeeded each other. We had
several conferences with the Kirghizes, for the purpose of fixing the route
we were to take, and learning the difficulties we might expect to en-
counter. Five of these people were selected as our guides. Fmally, on
the 10th of October, the whole escort, collected on the great square of
Orenbourg, was reviewed by the Governor-General, who caused mass to
be said, and gave the travelers a parting benediction. The solemnity
of the religious ceremonies was heightened by a presentiment of the
dangers to which the expedition might be exposed. It was possible that
the Kirghizes, always eager for pillage, always dissatbfied at seeing the
Russians explore their deserts, might attack us by night, or at least de-
stroy all vegetation upon our route across the steppe. But the Khivans,
who occupy a part of the territory south of the Aral Sea, were more to
be feared than the Kirghizes themselves, for, not less adroit, and more
united, they sometimes made excursions to the number of four or five
thousand. Although such a mass of cavalry could inspire but little fear
in our infantry, yet the escort would find it impossible to defend a con-
voy of seven hundred camels, including those of the Bokharian mer-
chants which were placed under our protection. These people, in their
sudden and unforeseen attacks upon caravans, eadeavor, by cries and
shouting, to terrify the camels, which, once dispersed, easily fiiU into their
power. Besides the danger of the route, we might run some risk in
Bokharia itself, a country inhabited by a barbarous and warlike people.
Before our arrival at Orenbourg, some Bokharian merchants had said
confidentially to their friends : " Perhaps none of the Christian travelers
will return home. Should even the Khan of Khiva let them pass, our

ARA.

id on the route.
f a Bashkir. As
he Kirghizes, wo

for each soldier
)rse four quiritala
supply of ammu-
r felt tents ; two
d finally, several
ivere loaded with
jaggage and pro-
xport of Russian
ducats ; but tho
of them ; search
distant ; but this
Moscow, who ob-
fter an additional

it our departure
ppeared, the bad

other. We had
)f fixing the route
;ht expect to en-
ides. Finally, on
B great square of
10 caused mass to
1. The solemnity
isentiment of the

was possible that
Bed at seeing the
ht, or at least de-
But the Ehivans,
Jea, were more to

adroit, and more
ler of four or five
pire but little fear
e to defend a con-
e Bokharian mer-
ge people, in their
ivor, by cries and
isily fell into their
run some risk in
jd warlike people,
jrchants bad said
Christian travelers
et them pass, our

KlllCilllZ WITH HOTTIjK and liUWl..

IN THB CAMP OP HAROUN UHAZI. Page aUS.

VISIT TO A EIROIIIZ CAMP.

825

klian will not commit the fault of allowing them to return. Why do you
wish the Christians to become acquainted with our country ?"

From Orcnbourg to the mountains of Mughodjar the appearance of
the country is mostly uniform. The surface is undulating and broken
by chains of, hills, whose slopes often extend from ten to fifloon miles.
The absence of wood and the slight elevation of the hills, exi)ose to view
a widely-extended horizon, where the eye seeks in vain for some object
on which to rest. Aridity, uniformity, and silence characterize a stoppe.
Toward the end of May the rays of a burning sun have scorched the
vegetation of these regions, and thenceforth the ground becomes of a
dirty yellow color.

On arriving at the banks of the Ilek we saw, for the first time, a large
village or aoul, formed of Kirghiz tents. Flocks of sheep, numbering
from five to six thousand, first attracted our attention. In approaching
this village we saw tents of white or brown felt, of every size ; there
were about fifty of them, placed irregularly in groups of three, four, and
even six. We soon learned that this was the camp of the sultan, Ilaroun
Ghazi, one of the principal Kirghiz chie&. He was awaiting our arrival
in order to accompany us to the Sir, and, by this act of kindness, to give
evidence of his attachment to the Russian government, whoso assistance
in fact he greatly needed, on account of his quarrels Avith the Khan of
Khiva. The day following our arrival the sultan came on horseback to
visit M. de Negri. He was surrounded by a hundred Kirghizes, and
wore a turban, which is not customary in this desert, but is regarded as
a sign of piety on the part of a Mohammedan, who wishes to bo dis-
tinguished from the mass of the Kirghizes. All these nomadic people
wished to penetrate into the tent of the Charge d'Afftures ; in fact they
crowded in while there was any room to be had, and immediately squat-
ted upon the ground.

The interior of the tent, filled with these ill-looking figures, presented
a strange scene. The sultan alone had a feir complexion, with large and
beautiful black eyes; bis bearing was mild but serious. We readily
perceived that he was a man of very good sense. His visit lasted an
hour and a half. On the morrow I went to see him ; meeting with an
assembly of about fifty Kirghizes on my way, I approached them and
soon learned that they had assembled to execute the sentence pro-
nounced by the sultan against one of their fellow-countrymen who had
stolen a horse. He was condemned to death according to the laws of
the Koran, but some of the older Kirghizes prayed the prince to pardon
him, in order that Providence might favor the expedition he was about
to undertake, and that his clemency might be a happy augury for their
reunion Avith the Russians. The sultan yielded to this appeal, and the
penalty was mitigated. The thief, half-naked, with a piece of black felt
around his neck and hanging upon his shoulders, was forced, by two
men on horseback armed with Avhips, to run to the next tent, Avhcre his
figure was blackened with soot, after which he Avas again driven through

826

MEYENDOBFF'S JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

tlie crowd of Kirghizes. They then fsistened to the tail of a horse a
rope which the thief was compelled to hold in his teeth, and he ran thus
behind the horse while two men made it trot ; others followed, striking
the thief heavy blows with whips. The greater part of the Kirghizct*
who assisted iu this punishment laughed aloud, while others swoie.
Finally, after a race of several minutes, they desisted ; ho went to thank
the sultan, who had not witnessed the castigation, and promised him
never to commit theft again. Meanwhile the horse of the thief suffered
the fate which had been destined for his master. His throat was cut,
and he was instantly dismembered and divided, not without loud shouts
and uproar, and the cracking of whips.

After witnessing this scene I went to the sultan, who obliged me to
wait a few minutes while he had his tent decorated. At length I en-
tered and found him seated near the middle of a large round tent ; his
friends were sitting in a semicircle on one side, while on the other were
places prepared for us. The sides of the apartment were adorned with
tapestry ; suspended to a cord were articles of clothing, some tiger-skins,
exposed for sale, a rich diadem of gold set with turkoises and rubies,
and the head-dress of a Kirghiz female. There were likewise dried
meats, large skin bags of mare's milk, and wooden vessels. Objects of
luxury were thus mingled with those of necessity, giving evidence of a
love of display, combined with savage tastes and customs.

After leaving the waters of the Ilek Ave crossed the summit of the
Bassagha range and then forded the Kubleili-temir, after having broken
the ice with hatchets. I was walking along the bank, sometimes on the
ice and sometimes on land, looking for petrifactions or curious conglom-
erates, when suddenly I perceived in the air a large animal which had
leaped from the top of the hill, and seemed about to precipitate itself
upon me. I retreated and it fell at my feet upon the ice, which it broke,
at the same time shattering its bones. It was a sai'ga, a species of ante-
lope, the first that I had ever seen. It had been chased by some Cos-
sacks of the convoy, who had pursued it over the plain to the brink of
the precipice. In escaping them it had run upon its own destruction,
through the effect of that blind terror which characterizes the saigas,
and which often delivers them up to the hunters. I have been assured
by people worthy of credit that in the mountains of Guberluisk and
Ural, toward the month of June, the season of the great migrations of
the saiga, they have seen flocks of eight or nine thousand of these ante-
lopes. Their flesh is delicious, and their skin is made into garments. It
is generally very difficult to approach them, except during the great
heats of summer ; this animal then seeks the shade, and frequently a
score of saigas stand behind each other with the head down, while the
foremost of the flock conceals its own in a hole, or behind a rock. In
this position they can easily be surprised ; the hunter kills the foremost,
the second usually takes its place and presents itself to his blows, un-
til he kills several in succession.

liMii

IMHil

-«a.« -..,,.« M,m^«.u-,-wix-.iMmf^-^a.\m-^:..^ii,XMMK.r,.^wii-rMfi.am,'

RA.

I of a horse a

nd he ran thus

owed, striking

the Kirghizes

others 8wo\e.

went to thank

promised him

e thief suffered

throat was cut,

out loud shouts

obliged me to
At length I en-
round tent ; his
I the other were
fe adorned with
ome tiger-skins,
ises and rubies,
I likewise dried
els. Objects of
g evidence of a
18.

,e summit of the
ir having broken
ometimes on the
jurious conglom-
nimal which had
:)recipitate itself
}, which it broke,
1 species of ante-
ed by some Cos-
i to the brink of
own destruction,
erizes the saigas,
ive been assured
i" Guberlinsk and
;at migrations of
ind of these ante-
nto garments. It
during the great
and frequently a
1 down, while the
ihind a rock. In
alls the foremost,
to his blows, un-

NIOIIT SEARJH FOR WATER.

827

From the Tcmir wo bore toward the heights of Mussevil which re-
semble those of Bassagha, and we could see the Mugodjar Mountains,
distant about forty miles. These mountains, which rise up majestically,
and present a bold outluie on the horizon, produce a very picturesque
effect. Nevertheless, we had a great desire to see them behind us, that
we might be no longer exposed to the groat cold and the storms : for,
from what the Kirghizes say, the southern slope of these mountains of-
fers a much less rigorous climate. Thus &r, however, the weather had
been quite favorable. On leaving them, we first passed through a level
country, afterward through deserts covered with moving sand, and over
mountains naked and destitute of vegetation. If the reader will imagine
several salt lakes and some level plains, the soil of which, formed of a soft
blue clay, yields under the feet of the traveler, and which shows the ordi-
nary indications of the diminution and retreat of the waters of the sea, he
Avill have a sufficiently correct idea of the nature of the surface of this
country.

On the 2d of November our chief guide, Emantchi-Bey, who had
not for ten years traversed the coimtry through which wo were passing,
advised us that after we had gone fifteen miles litre should stop at Kaun-
jur, as he was confident that we would find water only in the Khoja-kul,
a lake situated more than twelve miles further. We were unwilling to
believe him, for the Kirghizes, who were interested in obstructing our
march, had already frequently deceived us. We then continued our
journey ; the day was declining and nothing as yet indicated the prox-
imity of the lake; the night surprised us, and as it was now the season
when the nights are darkest, it was very difficult to find the way through
the steppe, which presented no traces of a road. We could no longer
distinguish the summits of the mountains, nor the hills, nor the tombs
by means of which the natives direct their journey, and without which
it would be very easy to go astray. Some prudent Kirghizes advised
us to halt, to spare ourselves useless fatigue, and to sleep instead of
searching for something to drink. But as we had announced that we
would go to the lake, we determined to persevere. Several Kirghizes
gave themselves all imaginary trouble in order not to lose the direction.
Always on horseback, they dispersed themselves before us and sought
to discover some little path, a certain index of the vicinity of water.
A well, a hole filled with water, or a lake, are points of meeting for
the wanderers of these deserts, and thus the paths are naturally formed.
After having traveled several hours of an obscure night, we began to
be tormented with the fear of losing our true route, when suddenly a
Kirghiz struck a light a mile in advance of the column and produced
by the sparks a magical effect — an expedient employed by the Kirghizes
when, during the nigl^t, they are about to unharness their horses, and
one of them, having found the true road, wishes to assemble his comrades
there. We followed our new guide for two or three miles, and finally ar-
rived, at eight o'clock in the evening, upon the banks of the Khoja-kul.

1^
It

828

MEYENDORPF'8 JODRNBY TO BOKHARA.

On leaving Elioja-kul we directed our course toward Cul-kuduk — the
slave's well — situated on the edge of the desert of Uorzouk. This des-
ert is composed of moving sand, which is fonned by the wind into steep
liillocks, and is continually changing. Wo found it the more difficult to
convey our chariots over these deep sands because the horses had been
much enfeebled by poor feed. Arrived at Cul-kuduk we burned ten of
our carriages, which kindled very easily and made so little cmoke in
comparison with the brambles wliich we had habitually used, that we
loaded our camels with the wheels and planks, in order to prolong, for a
few Jays, at least, the pleasure of enjoying a good fire.

We reached the hill of Sari-bulak on the 9th of November, and from
the summit I perceived, fifty miles distant, the heights of Kuk-temak,
whose base is washed by the waters of the Aral. I spoke to our Kir-
ghizes of the traces of water upon the Sari-bulak, and they assured me
that their fathers had seen the Aral Sea extend to the foot of this hill,
now forty miles distant. So large a number of Kirghizes have affirmed
the same thing that I consider it as certain, which proves how consider-
able and rapid is the diminution of tho Aral Sea.

Before arriving at the Sea of Aral we entered the desert of Karo-
kum, or Black Sand. All these sandy deserts present nearly the same
aspect. The Kara-kum is abundantly supplied with fresh water, which
may bo found nearly always at the depth of one or two fathoms. When
we came to Camechlu-bash, a bay adjoining the Sir, I set out with a
company of friends and a few Cossacks to visit the mouth of the Sir.
The river expands as it approaches the Aral, and the whole delta thus
formed is covered with reeds : the water is not more than four feet deep,
while the river itself is navigable above, as for as Kokand, and is several
fathoms deep throughout all this extent. In tho neighborhood of the Sir
are several canals from five to six feet deep, made at an epoch anterior
to the dominion of the Kirghizes, whom I believe incapable of so labor-
ious an undertaking. Here we saw very brge fields in which the Kir-
ghizes cultivate wheat and barley; they have also some fields of melons.
They preserve their crops in little holes in the ground. The provision
for the few horses and animals which they possess consists of the leaves
of young reeds, the growth of which is accelerated by burning the
plants the preceding year.

The embassy arrived on the 19th of November, nfler forty-one days'
travel, at the bonks of the Sir-deria, opposite the heights of Kara-tcpeh.
The sands of the Kara-kum, which reach almost to the Sir, and extend
a hundred miles along its course, were now again visible. Near Sir-
deria, tlie ordinary retreat of the poor, misery has multiplied the num-
ber of robbers, and in traversing these regions we observed on the sum-
mit of the hills some natives who seemed watching an occasion to seize
upon a straggler or horse. The countries watered by the Sir form tho
paradise of the steppe of the Kirghizes, who are proud of possessing so
large a river in their territory. The object of their most ardent desire

ARA.

Cul-kuduk — the
zouk. This des-
j wind into steep
more difficnlt to
horses had been
ve burned ten of
) little emoke in
lly used, that we
to prolong, for a

ircmber, and from
,8 of Kuk-temak,
poke to our Kir-
thoy assured me
s foot of this hill,
izcB have affirmed
res how considcr-

e desert of Kara-
it nearly the same
fresh water, which
o fathoms. When
r, I set out with a
mouth of the Sir.
whole delta thus
han four feet deep,
and, and is several
iborhoodoftheSir
b an epoch anterior
sapable of so labor-
in which the Kir-
ne fields of melons,
nd. The provision
nsists of the leaves
id by burning the

,ftcr forty-one days»
3cht8 of Kara-tepeh.
he Sir, and extend

visible. Near Sir-
multiplied the num-
>served on the sum-
m occasion to seize
»y the Sir form the
lud of possessing so

most ardent desire

\nM§

^vS>» ■

.' ,**

\lffl"

SONGS OF THE KIRGHIZES.

829

ia to winter with their herds upon its borders, where the cold is less
severe than on the banks of the lick, the Or, the Irghiz, or upon the
mountains of the Mughojar and Durgatch, or among the sands of the
Kara-kum. Along the Sir the frosts are never so severe as to destroy
the animals. Or incommode the people in their huts of felt ; but for six
years past the rich Kirghizes have been deprived of the pleasure of
passing the winter upon these fortunate shores, for their enemies, the
Khivans, come thither to plunder them whenever they find an oppor-
tunity.

The Kirghizes delight to winter among the reeds which arc thick
enough to form a shelter against the storms. These wandering people
appear to have a tendency to melancholy, and the murmur of the rapid
waves of the Sir charms their frequent leisure hours. Nothing, indeed,
contributes more to reverie than the sound of the waters of a river which
flows, like time, with a monotonous rapidity. The Kirghizes often pass
half the night seated upon a stone looking at the moon, and improvising
sad words, set to airs as sad. They also have historical songs which re-
count the high deeds of their heroes; but this sort of poem is sung only
by professional minstrels. I very much regret not having heard any. I
often said to the Khirgizes that I listened to their songs with pleasure ;
their impromptus were merely compliments, and were scarcely worth re-
taining, yet there remain a few fragments of songs in my memory. A
Kirghiz bey, a rich and intelligent man, the head of a numerous family,
sang to me these improvised words : " You who wish that I should sing
to you a song, I will tell you that a bey, poor, but good, is better than
a despised khan." These words perfectly expressed his thought, for he
was the declared enemy of the Khan of the Kirghizes. The same bey,
passing by us one day while we breakfasted, hummed these words : " See
these Russians who breakfast in eating the flesh of swine, and drinking
brandy. Ah I what men !"

A young Kirghiz one day chanted the following song, composed by
a young girl: "Seest thou this snow? Ah, well! my body is more
white. Seest thou flowing upon this snow the blood of this slaughtered
sheep? Ah, well ! my cheeks are more red. Pass this mountain, thou
wilt there behold the trunk of a burned tree. Ah, well I my tresses are
more dark. With the sultan there are scribes who write much. Ah,
well ! my eyebrows are darker than their ink," Another Kirghiz sang
to me : " Behold this village of tents which belongs to a rich man ; he
has but one daughter, who remains at home by day ; at night she walks
forth, and has only the moon for her companion."

This is a sample of the ideas of the Kirghizes, the children of the des-
ert, who, except as regards religion, have remained independent of all
the influences of foreign civilization. After having seen them, we have a
correct picture of a wandering people, cherishing their liberty, and de-
spising all which tends to impose upon them any restraint. Unsubdued,
warlike, ferocious, the Kirghiz, alone, and on horseback, courses through

!•<

880

MEYENDORPP'S JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

the desert, and traverses hundreds of miles with astonishing rapidity, in
order to visit a relative, or a friend belonging to a strange tribe. On
the M'ay he stops at every village ; he there tells the news, and, always
sure of being well received, even when not known, he partakes the food
of his host. This consists usually of cheese, curdled goat's milk, ni'it,
and, when it is to be had, koumiss^ a drink extracted from the milk of
mares, much esteemed in the desert. He never forgets the aspect of the
country through which he has passed, and returns home after some days'
absence, rich in new information, to repose among his wives and children.
His wives are his only servants ; they cook his food, make his clothes,
and saddle his horse, while ho with perfect coolness limits his labors to
the quiet cr :e of his flocks. I have seen the brother of a sultan, very
much esteemed among the Kirghizes, tending his sheep, on horseback,
dressed in a coat of red cloth, and traveling thus for a fortnight without
thinking his dignity lowered thereby.

The Kirghizes are governed by elders, heads of families, beys, beha-
dirs, sultans, and khans. The title of bey is properly hereditary, but if
the possessor can not sustain it by his character and merits, he soon loses
it ; while he who is able to make himself esteemed obtains it, either from
the custom which insensibly arises, of calling him sultan, or because an
assembly meets expressly for the purpose of conferring upon him this
honorable title. The Kirghizes are very irascible ; the slightest cause,
often merely a disappointed hope, is sufficient to spur them on to the
most cruel revenge. A few ^ears ago these people, having been several
times disturbed by the Khivans, solicited the aid of the Bokharians,
whose caravans had also been plundered by these robbers. The Kirghizes
believed that the government of Bokhara could not refuse their as-
rastance ; disappointed in their hope, they became furious, and resolved
to pillage the Bokharian caravans on the first opportunity. One of their
chiefs cut off the tail of his horse, carried it to Bokhara, to the chief
vizier, and said to him : "As this tail has been separated from this horse,
so do I separate myself from you ; henceforth I will be your implacable
enemy." He left immediately with two or three friends, and carried off
eight camels and two men. Such were the first hostilities of a war which
he alone had declared against all Bokharia. The ferocity and violence
of this man may give an idea of the untamed character of these people.
I will conclude this digression upon the Kirghizes, by remarking that
they never give themselves this name ; they designate themselves by
that of Kasaky which signifies ' man on horseback,' according to some,
and ' warrior,' according to others. They say that the Bashkirs call them
Kirghizes, but they do not know whence the name is derived, and they
give it only to the wandering tribes of tb 3 great horde. The latter are
in great fear of the Chinese, whose severe, or rather cruel policy, is never-
theless justified by necessity. A caravan having been pillaged not far
from the frontiers of Tsungari, the Chinese, guarded by the Manchoo
outposts, made reprisals, and thousands of Kirghizes, guilty or not, paid

liing rapidity, in j
inge tribe. On 1
)W8, and, always \
artakes the food j
iat'8 milk, m* at, ]
om the milk of
the aspect of the
after some days'
ves and children,
lake his clothes,
lits his labors to
of a sultan, very
jp, on horseback,
fortnight without

nilies, beys, beha-
hereditary, but if
}rits,he soon loses
uns it, either from
tan, or because an
ig upon him this
he sUghtest cause,
ur them on to the |
aving been several j
>f the Bokharians, j
Ts. The Kirghizes
ot refuse their as-
rious, and resolved
nity. One of their
khara, to the chief
ted from this horse,
be your implacable
nds, and carried oflF
litiesofawarwhich
jrocity and violence
ter of these people.
, by remarking that
Tjate themselves by
' according to some,
le Bashkirs call them
is derived, and they
rde. The latter are
iruel policy, is never-
een pillaged not far
led by the Manchoo
8, guilty or not, pwd

A WILD BOAR HUNT.

881

with their lives for this aggression. A few examples of this sort put an
end to the incursions of the Kirghizes who live near the frontiers of the
Chinese Empire.

At the tjme of our journey the river was frozen, and we crossed it
with the greatest care ; the ice was so brittle that it cracked upon the
passage of our two cannon. A camel broke through by its weight, and
was drawn out only with much difficulty. The Kirghizes burned some
reeds, and spreading the ashes upon the ice, finally prevented the camels
from slipping. After much exertion we crossed the Sir, celebrated in
antiquity imder the name of Jaxartes. On our return, the crossing was
more difficult and slow. Two boats which we took with us were made
into a raft, upon which the artillery and our company passed from one
shore to the other, while the horses and camels crossed by swimming.
It was a curious spectacle to see a dozen of the latter animals attached
one behind another, and conducted by Kirghizes. The conductors,
naked, and remarkable for their athl tic forms, sometimes clung closely
to the camels, and sometimes swimming beside, urged them on by shout-
ing. Three of these animals being drowned, were cast upon the banks.
The natives turned them toward Mecca, and having cut their throats,
reciting meanwhile the accustomed prayer, devoured them immediately.

In the plain bordering on the Jan-deria there are numerous groves
in which various kinds of animals, such as wolves, wild cats, and even
tigers, have their retreat. In hunting the tiger a score of men, armed
with match-locks, surround the thicket in which he is concealed ; they
then set fire to It on the windward side, when the heat and flames drive
the animal from his retreat and expose him to the balls of the hunters.
We employed this method in hunting the wild boar near the shores of
the Kouvan, and succeeded in killing a number of them. This hunt
presented a singular spectacle. From the midst of a plain covered with
burning reeds arose whirlwinds of smoke. Across the flames a hundred
Cossacks were seen, galloping with us to the right and left ; our horses
carried us sometimes in advance, sometimes in the rear, and often very
near the furious animals which were bounding through the marsh, dis-
appearing at one moment, and dashing suddenly into sight the next.
On all sides were heard the shots of pistols and guns : here lay wounded
horses, there the furious Cossacks strove to pierce the wild boars with
their spears. An officer of the Ural Cossacks, stung by hearing another
say that he was afraid, dismounted and seated himself upon an enorm-
ous wounded boar, which he seized by the ears as it ran ; then, to finish
the exploit, he shot it through the head with a pistol. If one can imag-
ine all these various objects he will have a good idea of our wild boar
liimts in the desert. In this plain we perceived some traces of ancient
canals, which prove that this country was once more populous than it is
at the present day.

Leaving the Jan-deria on the 3d of December, we proceeded by the
highway toward Bokhara ; I say highway, for it was a road of about

882

METENDORFP'S JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

three fathoms in width and much worn by frequent travel. It is the
route of the caravans from Bokhara to Orsk and Orcnbourg, and of the
Kirghizes irom the western part of the steppe, who take animals to the
bazaars of the former place. This route leads across the desert of
Kizil-kum (Red Sand), which is remarkable for its sterility ; nor water
nor springs are anywhere to be seen. It is said that formerly there were
throe wells near the road which avc followed, and that they were filled
up, in order that they might no longer bo used by the robbers who
usually kept themselves concealed among the neighboring hills. Those
brigands have been effectively expelled from the Kizil-kum, but now
they hide in the gorges of the Bukhan Mountains, and when they have
suflicient force make a descent upon the travelers and pillage them, or
even kill them in case of resistance. In approaching this region we
therefore kept strict guard and sent patrols into the defiles of the
Bukhan. Happily the dangerous passage was made without accident,
but ten days afterward a caravan of Bokharians and Kirghizes was pil-
laged by the Khivans, who fell upon them at the wells of Bukhan, and
pursued the fugitives into the Kizil-kum, where, having encountered a
troop of Kirghizes, they gave battle to them. On our return we found
on the route more than a hundred dead bodies which were the food of
dogs and a multitude of birds of prey. Fragments of china and porce-
lain ware, broken boxes and vases of bronze, scattered about on the
sand, showed where the fugitives had been overtaken and defeated.

After leaving the borders of the Jan-deria we entered a vast unin-
habited region which continued until within thirty miles of Bokhara,
and which extends from the banks of the Sir-deria, opposite Turkestan
and Tashkend, to the borders of the Amou-deria ; this space, compre-
hending from eight to nine degrees cf latitude, separates Bokharia from
the steppe of the Kirghizes, and the Khanate of Kokand from that of
Khiva. On the north of Bokharia we find habitable lands, but the fear
of the Khivans, a bold and cruel race, prevents all settlers from estab-
lishing themselves there, whDe at the same time Bokharia itself offers
better pastures. Every year several Khirgiz families, chiefly of tli?
poorer classes, leave their native soil in order to settle in the deserts of
Bokharia, where the undisturbed quiet and the milder climate promise
them a happier fate.

Beyond the Jan-deria we traveled, as I have said, upon a much fre-
quented route ; almost every day we met Kirghiz caravans which were
returning from Bokhara, and which, after having sold their sheep, car-
ried back from that city barley, oatmeal, tobacco, cotton and linen
clothing. We took great pleasure in talking with these Bazartchi — men
returning from market — in asking the news from Bokhara, and when
they had left the capital ; we felt happy in the prospect of soon termin-
ating a journey so long and toilsome, which was beginning to weary us
very much. Our horses, which found but a very miserable living in the
Kizil-kum, grew thinner every day ; the Bashkir horses were emaciated ;

iKSbfcWi«^!i^^>?:^

'■■■•sfsmnfiiavsm

'^^ip^t:

^■^"'■■'-ri7'-~-vTiiiiTi iitt-ys^-m

lRA.

•avcl. It is the
urg, and of the
; animals to the

tho desert of
lity ; nor water
lerly there were
they were filled
[le robbers who
[ig hills. These
il-kum, but now
when they have
pillage them, or

this region we
8 defiles of the
nthout accident,
[irghizes was pil-

of Bukhan, and
g encountered a
return we found
irere the food of
china and porce-
ed about on the
nd defeated.
;cred a vast unin-
lilea of Bokhara,
posite Turkestan
lis space, compre-
es Bokharia from
Land from that of
ands, but the fear
sttlers from estab-
haria itself oflfers
es, chiefly of tli?

in the deserts of
r climate promise

, upon a much fre-
'avans which were
d their sheep, car-
cotton and linen
le Bazartchi — men
lokhara, and when
!Ct of soon termin-
ming to weary ua
rable living in the
s were emaciated ;

ENTRANCE INTO BOKHARIA.

888

they were no longer able to draw the six chariots which remained of
the twenty-five with which wo set out from Orenbourg. It became
necessary to replace them with Cossack horses which had hitherto car-
ried the packrsaddles. All our people were extremely weak, especially
the infantry ; in a word, we were all in the greatest need of reaching
the end of our journey. We took ice and water from the Jan-deria in
leather sacks and casks ; yet it was very difficult to carry with us water
enough to supply so many men and horses for four days and a half.

After having passed the Kizil-kum, we traversed, for thirty miles, a
plain covered with worm-wood, bounded on the right by the mountains
of Bukhan. The Bokharians who accompanied us, fearing a surprise on
the part of tho Khivans, persuaded us to avoid the wells of Bukhan,
which were very dangerous. At Kapkantash are several sulphur
springs, fetid and very salt. Our horses scarcely tasted the water ; but
on our return in March, ahorse drank five buckets of this tainted water.
As the weather was by this time very warm, every body was thirsty, and
we had much difficulty in restraining our soldiers a few minutes before
permitting them to drink this wretched water, which was, however, very
cool. Fifteen miles fi-om Kapkantash we entered the sands of Batkak-
kum, which extended for twenty miles ; after leaving these we again
entered a mountainous country, called Susiz-kara, or black without
water, and at length arrived at Kara-aghatch. Before reaching this
place, four Bokharian custom-house officers came to meet the embassy,
and after saluting us with the usual formula of Khosh amedid (be wel-
come !), informed us that the khan, their sovereign, had sent provisions
for us, to Aghatma, twenty-eight miles from Kara-aghatch. M. de Ne-
gri politely expressed to them our gratitude, and we proceeded with
them to the former place.

As we drew near Aghatma a Bokharian youz-bashi, or centurion,
followed by a score of horsemen, came to announce to the Charge d'Aft
faires that the khan had sent him to receive the embassy and supply it
with what provisions were needed ; then several horsemen approached
M. de Negri, took his hand in the oriental manner, and all repeated
" Khosh amedid;'^ after which the little party set off in a gallop. The
greater part of the horses were very beautiful, large, light, and full of
fire, and they vanished like lightning. At Aghatma we found fresh
white bread, delicious grapes, water-melons, and pomegranates. One
may judge of the pleasure which each of us experienced in eating this
bread and fruit, by remembering that for seventy days we had lived on
biscuit alone, which became harder every day. Our horses had now
nourishing hay and jugara, a sort of white grain of the size and shape
of lentils, which is given to beasts instead of bariey.

About twelve miles from Odun-kuduk, we passed for a short distance
through a range of sandy hills, among which we saw the remains of
earthen walls and buildings. After havmg crossed these mounds, we
entered, to our great surprise, a country entirely different ; we might

884

MBTBNDORFF'S JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

have supposed ourselves a thousand leagues distant from the monoton-
ous regions which we had been traversing for the last seventy days.
The desert ends at these sandy hillocks, beyond which we were surround-
ed by fields and water-courses and avenues of trees. On all sides were
houses, villages, gardens, vineyards, mosques, and minarets ; in a word,
one might believe himself transported into an enchanted land. We found
ourselves in a country scarcely kno\vn to Europeans ; every thing excited
our curiosity. Let one imagine the interest with which we contem-
plated the thousands of Orientals, clothed in blue garments and white
turbans, running to meet us, some on foot, others riding on horses or
aeses, but all pressing around us and saluting us in their manner. Many
testified their joy by addressing friendly words to us in Russian ; their
dgns of astonishment, their cries, and finally the tumultuous movement
which animated all the crowd, gave to our entrance into Bokharia the
aspect of a popular festival, the joy of which we should have shared, if
the presence of the police, whose voices resounded above all this noise,
and who with large clubs struck right and left indiscriminately to make
way for us, had not reminded us that our own arrival had caused all
this confusion, and that the eagerness to see so many Russians carried
the people beyond the fear of the blows.

We were touched with sadness to see in the midst of this Asiatic
populace a few Russian soldiers reduced to the condition of slaves. The
greater number were aged and infirm, and at the sight of their fellow-
countrymen thev could not restrain their tears ; they stammered a few
words in their maternal language ; they attempted to precipitate them-
selves into our midst, so lively an emotion did the pleasure of seemg our
soldiers agmn create in them. These touching scenes, which rent the
soul, can not be described.

At Khatun-kuduk we had learned that o;-t of the principal officers
of the Bokharian government was awaiting us :■' the next village. We
had passed through a short stretch of cultivated country, when a penja-
hashi (captiun of five hundred men) came to meet us with two hundred
cavalry. He conducted us through the crowd, and our infantry marched,
beating the drums, toward the tent of the cusMeghi. At the dlotance
of fifty yards from the tent we dismounted in order to advance between
two files of foot-soldiers seated upon the ground, who rose when the
Charge d'Affaires passed. Many tents of different colors were to be
a great many horses richly caparisoned were attached by the

seen;

head and hind feet to pickets. Numerous slaves and officers surrounded
the tents ; in a word, every thing around us added to the solemnity of

The eush-beghi, named Hakim-bey, was seated in his tent with four
Bokharian noblemen; when M. de Negri had taken the place reserved
for him, this officer, addressing the persons attached to the embassy,
said • " Be seated. You are strangers ; 1 am much pleased to see you."
M de Negri having spoken afterward of the ceremonial to be observed

ABA.

im the monoton-
8t seventy days,
e were surround-
)n all sides were
rets ; in a word,
land. "We found
ery thing excited
lich we contem-
ments and white
ing on horses or

manner. Many
in Russian ; their
Ituous movement
nto Bokharia the
a have shared, if
ovc all this noise,
minately to make
■al had caused all

Russians carried

[st of this Asiatic
jn of slaves. The
lit of their fellow-
stammered a few
i precipitate them-
Lsure of seeing our
!8, which rent the

e principal officers
next village. We
try, when a penja-
with two hundred
infantry marched,
At the diDtariCb
) advance between
rho rose when the
colors were to be
_ attached by the
jfficers surrounded
the solemnity of

his tent with four
the place reserved
to the embassy,
leased to see you."
nial to be observed

RECEPTION IN BOKHARA.

885

when he should be presented to the khan, did not entirely agree on this
point with the cush-beghi. The audience had commenced under favora-
ble auspices, but before it was terminated the Bokharian character dis-
closed itself. The cusMeghi had the indiscretion to ask M. de Negri
to make the* khan a present of the two cannon which we had with us.
When he saw that he should not be able to obtain them, he made no
scruple of demanding for the khan the carriage of M. de Negri, All
this time he was not ignorant that we had many camels loaded with
presents for the Court of Bokhara. This officer was about fifty years of
age ; his long brown beard was beginning to whiten. He was tall, his
countenance was agreeable and full of goodness ; he expressed himself
in Persian with great faciUty. He wore a turban formed of a white
cashmere shawl, and a robe of sable ornamented with striped cashmere.

We passed the night of the 17th of December near Wafkend, a small
city, after having passed through a populous and well-cultivated country.
On the 18th we traveled through an equally fine district in order to
reach Bazartchi, a large village situated a mile and a half irom Bokhara.
Since our interview with the cush-beghi we had traveled thirty miles ;
during these two days we were incessantly surrounded by a considerable
crowd ; the police scattered them with the strokes of their clubs ; the
curious suffered themselves to be beaten, fled, and returned. Our sol-
diers advanced in the greatest order ; they were in complete uniform ;
the sound of the drum, which was heard from time to time, occasioned
cries of surprise from the multitude. We advanced thus in the midst
of the tumult and the public demonstrations of joy excited by our
arrival.

After thirty-six hours of discussion on the ceremonial to be observed,
we finally came to an agreement ; the khan consented that M. de N6gri
should sit in his presence. At noon, on the 20th of December, we made
our solemn entry into Bokhara, preceded by a detachment of Cossacks,
and by tL ' presents, which consisted of furs, porcelain, crystals, watches,
and fire-arms. Other Cossacks and a party of infantry closed the pro-
cession. An Ouzbek nobleman, a very important personage, who spoke
Persian perfectly, conducted the embassy to the palace. Advancing
slowly with this procession, we passed under a largo gate, and after hav-
ing marched through a narrow, winding street, bordered by miserable
clay houses with flat roofe, we finally arrived at a large square surround-
ed by mosques and colleges or medresseSy where we saw the gates of the
palace.

After having alighted, we ascended into a vaulted corridor, built of
bricks. On each side was a file of soldiers to the number of nearly four
hundred, armed with muskets of different dimensions. Thence we en-
tered a small court, and afterward a passage, where there were a dozen
unmounted cannon, and then a square court surrounded by walls, along
which were seated three or four hundred Bokharians, wearing white tur-
bans and vestments of gold brocade ; then, turning to the right, we

836

MEYENDOaFF'S JOURNEY TO BOKHARA,

passed into an antechamber, and finally into the hall of reception, where
the khan was seated upon cushions covered with a carpet of red cloth
lichly embroidered with gold. On the floor was a Persian carpet of in-
ferior quality ; the walls were plastered, and the ceiling was covered
with painted boards. This hall was in the form of a parallelogram. The
khan sat near the wall opposite the entrance ; on his left were his two
suns, of whom the elder was probably fifteen years old, and on his right
the cuah-beghi. On each side of the door were five noblemen. Two
chamberlains supported M. de Negri, who advanced within ten paces of
the khan, addressed him in Persian, gave his credentials to the cuuh-
beyhi, and took his scat. The persona attached to the embassy remained
standing against the wall on each side of the door. The cfush-beghi at
once presented the emperor's letter to the khan, who read it aloud ; he
then begged M do Negri to allow a iaw soldiers to enter the antecham-
ber, where they were ordered to lay down their arms. The khan, hav-
ing seen them, began to laugh like a child. lie was about forty-fivo
yciu's of age, not very intellectual in appearance ; ho had a beautiful
beard, black eyes, an olive complexion, and appeared to bo exhausted by
the pleasures of the harem. He wore a vestment of black velvet, orna-
mented with precious stones, and a turban of muslin, surmounted by a
heron's plume. A master of ceremonies held a kind of halberd, termi-
nated above by a silver hatchet. The presents were carried to another
chamber, in the presence of the khan. The audience lasted about twenty
minutes ; when it was ended, we rejoined our escort, which soon after-
ward returned to Bazartchi, where it bivouacked for the rest of the win-
ter. M. de Negri and the persons attached to the embassy were lodged
at Bokhara, in a large house belonging to tho cuah-beghi.

From what information I could gather, the Bokharians give to Chi-
nese Turkestan the name of Alti-Shohar, or the country of the six cities.
These are Cashghar, Yarkend, Ehoten, Aksou, and the two cities of
Ilch. Cashghar is a large city, guarded by a Chinese garrison, and ia
very difficult of access. It is situated on the Cashghar, a branch of the
Ki^-soa (red water), which flows between Cashghar and Yarkend. In
going from Cashghar to Cashmere, one passes Yarkend, where the Tartar
language is still spoken ; then by the cities of Great and Little Thibet.
The country being mountainous, the caravans proceed only by short
stages, and as it is. impossible to employ camels, the journey is made al-
together on horseback. Yarkend is distant four days' journey from
Cashghar, and Great Thibet is thirty-five or forty days. Cashmere is
twenty-two days from the latter city, and midway one passes Little
Thibet. The river which bathes the walls of the latter, flows to the north
of Cashmere, or rather, empties into the Cashmere River.

It is probable that the cities named Thibet are the same that were
known by the name of Ladak and Draouse, or Dervazeh, yet it is remark-
able that no Bokharian is acqufunted with these names, while different mcr-
obauts with whom I have spoken, called them Great and Little Thibet. Tho

lRA.

sccption, where
ct of red cloth
in carpet of in-
ig was covered
llelogram. Tho
[I were his two
uid on his right
obleraen. Two
hin ten paces of
als to the cuehr
abassy remwned
ho eush-heghi at
jad it aloud ; he
r the antecham-
The khan, hav-
about forty-fivo
had a beautiful
be exhausted by
lack velvet, oma-
Burmounted by a
»f halberd, termi-
arried to another
ted about twenty
which soon after^
le rest of the win-
)a88y were lodged

nans give to CM-
Y of the six cities,
ho two cities of
e garrison, and is
r, a branch of the
nd Yarkend. In
where the Tartar
ad Little Thibet,
sed only by short
umey is made al-
ys' journey from
lys. Cashmere is
one passes Little
flows to the north

■er.

le same that were
1, yet it is remark-
hile different mcr-
ittle Thibet. Tho

EOUTB TUROUOII CENTRAL ASIA.

887

Russian merchants who have gone from Semipalatinsk to Cashmere, give
them tho same name. Between Cashghar and Cashmere, there are no
other cities than those I have mentioned ; near them there are a few vil-
lages Bcatterod upon the declivities of the mountains. Great and Little
Thibet are surrounded with gardens ; I am told that the houses arc of
wood, as in Russia, and have very steep roofi. The inhabitants arc be-
lievers in the Lama, and worship idols.*

* Tlio manuscript of this work had beon completed a \ong tirao, when I found, at St
Petersburg, in June, 1823, tho account of a Journey to India, by Raphael Danibo)^, a
Qeorgian gentleman, dedicated to his Majesty the Emperor Alexander, translated from
Georgian into Russian, and printed in 1816. This work contains nothing of interest until
tho author's arrival in Cashmere ; but the account of his Jour-ey from that city to Semi-
palatinsk, in Siberia, passing through Cashghar, surprised mo the more agreeably that tho
information it contains very nearly agrees with that which I had obtained. Tho follow-
ing is an extract of tliis account :

" From Cashmere I proceeded to Thibet, where I arrived after having traveled about
a hundred and fifty miles in a march of twenty days. The city is built on hills, and sur-
rounded with stony mountains, upon which nothing grows but a little oats. The inhabi-
tanta mix the oatmeal with milk, and cook it with the addition of butter. So poor are
thoy that this food forms theironly nourishment. I observed a custom here which is very
discreditablo and contrary to good sense : if there are several brothers in a house, a single
woman will bo the wife of them all ; if a boy is bom, he takes the name of tho eldest. A
large quantity of tea is consumed in this place ; the wool for the shawls is brought from
Lassa. All the merchandise is transported on the back of sheep, which are loaded with
as mucli a.s thoy can carry ; from this placo to Cashmere the transportation is made with
horses. These people bring from Lassa a largo quantity of goat's wool, which is forwarded
to Cashmere. It required three months to go from Thibet to Lassa.

" I stopped forty days to make an excursion fVom Thibet to Yarkend. The Jourcey
was very tedious; the sterility of the soil, the great depth of the precipices, the excessive
height of the mountains, among which glaciers were seon, occasioned a sense of sadness
which was augmented by the continual solitude of these uninhabited places. At length
we perceived Yarkend ; this city, surrounded by thick woods, presents a very pleasant
aspect

" The Chinese garrison consists of more than two thousand men, whoso chief is termed
Amban ; beside these there are three thousand Chinese in Yarkend, engaged in com-
merce. The climate of this city is salubrious, but tho water is bad. There are no fine
edillces to be seen ; the inhabitants e^joy a degree of competency. Although I have said
that the climate is healthy, I must except the autumn ; in no place have I ever found it
worse. During the whole season the sky was covered with clouds. The great humidity
of the atmosphere often produces a kind of red insect called harhites, whose sting is almost
always fatal. A singular dust, from some unknown source, falls like rain, and renders
this season very disagreeable. Where this dust falls, instead of rain, tho people expect a
good harvest, while they look for a bad one if they have only ordinary rain. This dust is
so thick that the sun can not penetrate it ; it sometimes continues thus for seven or eight
days, and is so fine that it enters the smallest crevices.

" Beside Yarkend, the Chinese are masters of Khoten, Cashghar, Aksou, Duroban,
and Ileh. They are very numerous in Ileh, or Kulja; there are supposed to bemorothan
ten thousand of them. They are very proud and very indolent, and spend their time in
smoking tobacco. No inhabitant is permitted to leave the city without a passport; it is
difficult to escape this regulation, for the surveillance of the authorities is very active.
This is one of tho means which the Chinese have adopted to prevent disorders of all kinds.

"Thirteen days after leaving Yarkend, I amved at Aksou. This city, which is not

888

MEYENDORFF'S JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

In the mountainous country cast of Bokharia an«l north of Ilissar arc
the (Jhaltchas, a poor and independent people. They arc Sunnite Mo-
hanuuedans; some Russian travelers have called them Oriental Persians;
tlieir complexion is very tawny, and even more brown than that of the
IJokharian Arabs. They live in miserable cabins, built in the low lands
between the mountains ; are all cultivators of the soil, and have some
cattle and a very few horses. Going further cast wc enter a country
which becomes more and more mountainous and is very little known.
There is said to bo a people hero called Katir or infidel, who arc repre-
sented as very ferocious. The formidable Kafirs inhabit the city of
Kalel-khum, also called Derwazeh, situated upon a river of the same

name.

(iold is found in the waters of the Derwazeh ; these riches excite the
cupidity of the 13okharians, Avho, from time to time, risk their lives to
procure a few particles of the precious metal. This is the manner of ob-
taining it : in Bokhara it is customary to carry water in skins, which
preserve the form of the animals from which they were taken ; the best
are the skins of sheep and wild-goats. The mouth of this vessel corre-
sponds to the neck of the animal. The Bokharians attach these skins to
a cord and throw them into the Derwazeh ; the furious river soon fills
the skin with mud, sand, and gold, the last of which it is aacrward easy
to extract from the mixture ; but as it is never without foreign matter,
its value is to that of pure gold as eighteen to twenty-one. May not
this process throw light upon a passage of Herodotus, in which the his-
torian describes the means employed by the Indians in extracting gold

fi'om sand ?

Bokharia lies between forty-one and thirty-seven degrees north lati-
tude, and sixty-one and sixty-six degrees thirty minutes east of Paris,
comprising a surface of about ten thousand square leagues. The eastern
part is mountainous ; all the western part is a plain extending as far as
the eye can see, upon which small isolated hills rise to the height of ten
or fiaeen feet ; these hillocks are of a clayey nature like the rest of the
desert ; above this clay the sands are moved by the winds, and formed
into ridges. The oases of Bokharia present a most pleasing and cheerful
aspect. There is no country better cultivated than these plains ; they
are covered with houses, gardens, and fields divided in small squares
called tanab, the sides of which are raised a foot with turf, in order to
retain the water which is conveyed thither for the purposes of irrigation.

large, contains many well-built hoiises ; it is situated in a valley, and is divided into two
parts, one inhabited by Chiueae, the other by Mohammedans, who carry on an active
trade with each other.

"Three days after leaving Aksou, I arrived at Turfan, an unsightly little town. As
the inhabitants are very poor, nothing interesting is to be found here. Fifteen miles
thence are the frontiers of the country of the Kirghizes.

" Leaving Turfan, I passed through many wandering tribes of Calmucks, Kirghizes,
Kaisaks, and finally reached Soraipalatinsk, after a journey of three months."

UA.

,h of Ilissar aro
re Sunnitu Mo-
iental PcrHians ;
han that of tho
n tho low lands
and have seme
■nter a country
ry little known.
, M'ho arc rcprc-
bit tho city of
er of the same

■ichcs excite tho
ik their lives to
e manner of ob-

in skins, which
taken ; the best
his vessel corre-
i\\ these skins to
i river soon fills
i afterward easy
; foreign matter,
jr-one. May not
in which the his-

cxtracting gold

jjirees north lati-
es east of Paris,
es. The eastern
tending as far as
he height of ten
tho rest of the
inds, and formed
sing and cheerful
lese plains ; they
in small squares
turf, in order to
)ses of irrigation.

i is divided into two
carry oa an active

itly little town. As
hero. Fifteen miles

Kalmucks, Kirghizes,
months."

CLIMATK OF BOKIIARIA.

S39

Thousands of water-courses intersect the plain, and like the roads, which
are very narrow, they are usually bordered with trees. Tho waters of
thesio canals not being all upon tho same level, they are connected to-
gether by small cascades, which soothe the car with an agreeable mur-
mur. Tho great quantity of trees planted on every side Ibrm screens
which prevent tho view from extending to a distance.

The multiplicity of dwellings indicates a numerous population ; per-
haps it is too great to admit of a general competency. These dwellin.rs
usually form villages, which aro half concealed by tho fruit-trees of iUv
gardens. I saw villages entirely surrounded by walls ; they were a kin.l
of fortresses; others are oi)en, tho gardens only being inclosed; and
these walls, often indented and flanked Avith small turrets, add to the
picturesque appearance of tho country ; they also indicate that the ]wo.
plo are afraid of being pillaged ; and the frequent incursions of tho wan-
dering tribes, lead us to suppose that the existence of these fortifications
is a result of a sad necessity.

A Bokharian village usually contains a hundred houses, built of eartli,
and separated from each other by streets which aro no narrower than
those of the cities. In tho center of tho village is frequently a well, or
a small reservoir, in which tho water is replenished by means of a ditch.
Each village is situated near a canal, by which means the gardens can
be watered.

The climate of the mountain-regions of Bokharia is of course diftor-
cnt from that of the western part of the country, Avhich is mild and
even : I shall hero speak only in reference to tho plains. The seasons
there are very regular ; by the middle of February tho fruit-trees begin
to bloom ; tho forest-trees put forth in tho early days of March. Then
tho beautiful season begins, and the heavy rains cease, afler having lasted
nearly three weeks. Soon the heat becomes oppressive ; it is tho more
perceptible as tho atmosphere is rarely refreshed by storms. The fine
season continues until October, Avhen tho rains usually prevail for two or
three weeks. In November and December, slight frosts, and sometimes
a little snow, announce the approach of winter ; on tho 20th of Decem-
ber we found melons still in tho fields, which showed that tho frosts
could not have been heavy. The month of January is more rigorous ;
tho usual degree of cold is about twenty-seven degrees Fahrenheit ; it is
sometimes as low as fourteen degrees, and water freezes from three to
four inches thick. Snow has been known to remain a fortnight on the
ground without thawing.

The winter which wo passed at Bokhara was very mild ; durmg four
or five days only, the cold was so severe as to freeze the water two
inches, and then the people hastened to break the ice and pile it in large
heaps, which Mere covered with earth for preservation. The rains com-
mence between the "Zth and 15th of February, and continue until the
close of the month. Every thing becomes green and flourishes in a few
days. Nothing proves the warm climate of Bokhara better than the

mmm

840

MBYENDORFP'8 JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

■II

beat of tho iun ; in tho month of January wo dined in tho open air,
wlicn tho temperature in tho nhadu woa filly-five dcgrues, and ninety in
the Bun.

Violent winds prevail in winter and Hummer ; thoy ralso to a great
height a fino dust, which hides every thing from view, and imparts a
gray tint to the atmosphere. These clouds of dust, which spread over a
whole district, may bo seen moro than fifteen miles distant. The cli-
mate of Bokhara is generally healthy ; tho winter and tho rainy seasons
refresh and purify tho atmosphere, which is not vitiated by any noxious
exhalations. Tho rheumatism which prevails is produced by tlie damp-
ness of tho Iiouses, and tho frequent sore eyes may bo caused by those
violent winds and the dust they raise. Blindness must bo common in
this country, for the father of the reigning khau erected in Bokhara tho
fatfutbad, a hospital, or rather monastery, of the blind, where about
fifty of these unfortunates aro lodged by twos and threes in small cells
arranged around a mosque.

All the cities in Bokharia aro built near tho rivers, and consequently
surrounded by cultivated fields ; tho drought is frequently so great in
summer that tho inhabitants con procure water only by digging holes ;
the plain of Bokhara is so low that water is found everywhere at the
depth of from five to eight feet. This stagnant water produces worms
which tho people drink without perceiving it ; from this results a malady
n.imed riahta by the Bokharians. The whole body becomes covered
with pustules which occasion very painful sores. From these pustules
come worms of tho class annelidea. The Bokharians know no remedy
for this evil. A Russian prisoner, a slave in Bokhara, in speaking to
me of the scarcity of water which was experienced there, said in a tone
of vexation, " It is a country that God created in his anger."

Ourghenje is a small fortress which I saw on our return to Russia.
I could not obtain permission to enter the city ; they closed .the gates
upon us, probably by command of the superior powers. It has the
name of fortress because it is surrounded by an earthen wall about
twenty feet high. Wo passed near OurghenjS on the 26th of March;
the wind was high, but not violent. But scarcely had we quitted the
clayey soil when we found ourselves among sandy hillocks and the wind
became more furious; the sand rose in whirlwinds and penetrated
everywhere. I wore spectacles made expressly to keep off the dust,
which I dreaded, but they protected my eyes but imperfectly. The
sand produced a kind of cloud which so vailed tho light of day that
we could see but a short distance, and our Kirghiz guides no longer
knew the route. Happily a Bokharian trooper of the garrison of Our-
ghenje followed us to find out whether any Russian slave were mingled
with our escort ; we compelled him, by holding a pistol at his throat,
to act as our guide ; although ho rendered us this service much against
his will, he prevented us from going astray. Nothing can be more
disagreeable than this sand ; although coarse, it penetrates the eyes, the

KRk.

THE CITY OF BOKnAHA.

841

n tho opon ur,
B, and ninety in

uiHe to a great
, and imparts a
ill spread over a
stant. The cli-
tic rtuny seasons
by any noxious
cd by the damp-
caused by those
t bo common in
1 in Bokhara tho
id, where about
ees in small cells

nd consequently
jntly 80 great in
Y digging holes ;
erywhere at the
produces worms
results a malady i
becomes covered
jm these pustules
know no remedy
a, in speaking to
jre, said in a tone
inger."

return to Russia,
closed the gates
vers. It has the
rthen wall about
3 25th of March ;
ad we quitted the
acks and the wind
3 and penetrated
keep off the dust,
imperfectly. The
light of day that
s guides no longer
3 garrison of Our-
lave were mingled
stol at his throat,
rvice much against
ling can be more
irates the eyes, the

mouth, and tho cars ; all our eyes wcro intlamed, and I can easily con-
ceive how tho army of Nndir-Hhali, when crosHing tlio deserts west of
tho Amou duriug a storm, lost a number of men from the eflects of
ophthalmia. It ia thus that tho deserts near Bokharia are a natural do-
fonso. The sand, driven by tho winds, tills u[) tho ditches, drifts aguinst
tho walls, and soon rises to their level, lills the streets, and covers the
houses, like tho atilica of Vesuvius which buried Ilerculaneuni and
Pompeii.

llaving spoken of several cities of Bokharia, I will describe tho cn|>-
ital of that country. Tho oases of tho surrounding region being cov-
ered with avenues of troos and numerous gardens, tho view can not
extend very far, henco Bokhara can be seen only within about two miles
distance, in coming from Wafkcnd. The view is striking to a European.
Domes, mosques, high gables, colleges, minarets, palaces rising in tho
midst of the city, tho surrounding walls with their battlements, a lake
near the walls, bordered by houses with flat roofs, or by neat country-
houses within embrasured walls — finally, tho fields, tho gardens, the
trees, and tho activity which reigns everywhere in tho vicinity of a
capital, all contribute to produce a very agreeable effect ; but tho illusion
ceases os soon as we enter tho city, for with tho exception of the baths,
the mosques, and the temples, wo see only dingy earthen houses, thrown
beside each other without order, forming narrow,, crooked streets, which
are filthy and difficult to traverse. These houses, which front on courts,
present to tho streets only smooth walls, without windows, or any thing
to relieve the eye of tho passenger. Every thing we meet in this popu-
lous city seems to hint of mistrust ; the countenances of tho people are
scarcely ever animated by an expression of gayety ; there are no noisy
festivals, no songs, and no music ; nothing indicates that they sometimes
amuse themselves there, nothing shows that the city is inhabited by a
people enjoying an agreeable existence. Therefore the curiosity and tho
interest which wo felt on first seeing edifices of oriental architecture, was
soon followed by an impression of sadness and melancholy.

The houses are built of clay, mixed with cut straw. In order to
give more consistence to this mixture, wooden posts are placed in tho
walls, and especially at the corners. Tho ceilings are iisually of hard
wood ; they are covered with earth, and form the roofe, which are flat.
In tho handsomer houses tho ceilings of tho principal apartments arc
covered with boards, painted with different colors. The floor is of glazed
earth among tho common people, and brick among tho rich. Tho ft'ont
and the A^nndows open upon the court, and a single door leads to the
street. The windows aro sometimes openings, dosed simply with
wooden shutters ; sometimes they aro arched openings which are never
closed, and aro covered only with a trellis of plaster. Tho latter kind
of windows yield only an indifferent light ; and in order to see distinctly
it is necessary to open the shutters. But in winter the cold is often
fifteen degrees above zero, so that the apartments without stoves, from

BH U W WIiW aKK'ir.J.-.Va

342

MKYENDORPP'S JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

which the external air is not excluded, arc cold and damp. It is not
surprising then that rheumatisms prevail in this city, especially among
t^o poor. In order to protect themselves from the cold, the Bokharians
make use of braziers, above which they placi, like the Turks, a small
wooden table, covered with a wadded carpet ; upon this they seat them-
selves and envelop themselves with it up to the chin. The heat of the
burning charcoal eifectively preserves the body from cold, but one can
not write without having the hands frozen.

The city is about ten miles in circumference, and is said to contain
almost eight thousand houses, and very nearly seventy thousand inhab-
itants. Three fourths of these are Tadjiks, the most part artizans. The
remainder of the population is composed of Ouzbeks, Jews, Tartars,
Afghans, Calmucks, Hindoos, merchants from neighboring cities, pil-
grims, Persian and Russian slaves, and a small number of negroes. The
Jews occupy eight hundred houses ; they say they came from Samar-
cand about seven hundred years ago, after having left Bagdad. Of all
the cities of Central Asia, Bokhara contains the greatest number of this
race. They are permitted to inhabit only three streets in the city;
among them there are two rich capitalists, the others are mostly in easy
circumstances, and are generally manufacturers, dyers, and silk-mer-
chants. They are prohibited from riding on horseback in the city, and
from wearing silken garments ; their caps must have a border '^f black
sheepskin, which may be only two inches in width. They are not per-
mitted to build a new synagogue, and have the right only to repair the
old one.

These people are remarkable in their personal appearaiiCP, for a hand-
some beard, a countenance somewhat lengthened, a very fair complex-
ion, and eyes which are large, lively, and full of expression. Having
learned that the government feared the arrival of the embassy with its
numerous escort, they regarded us as ':.iessengers from heaven, who
came perhaps to alleviate their sufTerings. They were fearful of com-
promising themselves in the eyes of the Bokharians ; when they met us
they saluted us in a friendly and propitiatory manner, but nevertheless
with a sentiment of fear. The rabbi of Bokhara who was a native of
Algiers and knew a little Spanish, told me that on his arrival in Bokharia
he had found his brethren sunk in the most profound ignorance ; only
a very small number knew how to read. They possessed but two copies
of the Holy Scriptures, and their manuscript contained only the first
three books of the Pentateuch. This Algerine Jew, an intelligent old
man, who almost wept for joy at again seeing Europeans, has neglected
no means of disseminating instruction among the people of his religion.
He has ibunded a school and procured books from Russia, Bagdad, and
Constantinople; at present all the Jews of Bokhara know how to read
and write ; they study the Talmud.

The most remarkable edifice of the city is the palace of the khan ;
the Bokharians call it Arck. It is said to have been built more than ten

HARA.

damp. It is not
, especially among
,d, the Bokhariana
he Turks, a small
lis they seat them-

The heat of the
cold, but one can

is said to contain
y thousand inhab-
jart artizans. The
ks, Jews, Tartars,
iboring cities, pil-
r of negroes. The
came from Samar-
l Bagdad. Of all
est number of this
greets in the city;
are mostly in easy
ers, and silk-mer-
sk in the city, and
a border '^f black
They are not per-
t only to repair the

caraiico, for a hand-
I, very fair complex-
xpression. Having
le embassy with its
from heaven, who
'ere fearful of com-
; when they met us
er, but nevertheless
rho was a native of
I arrival in Bokharia
nd ignorance ; only
ssed but two copies
ained only the first
f, an intelligent old
)eans, has neglected
>ople of his religion,
lussia, Bagdad, and
k know how to read

palace of the khan ;
built more than ten

THE STREETS OP BOKHARA.

343

centuries ago, by Arslan-Khan; it is situated upon an cmmencc, and is
surrounded by a wall about six feet high, which has but a single gate.
The entrance is of brick, and has on each side a tower about ninety feet
in height, formerly ornamented with green glazed tiles, some remains
of which are still to be seen. From this gate leads a large corridor, the
vaults of which have the appearance of being very ancient. Following
this corridor, we arrive at the summit of a hill upon which are situated
some clay houses which are inhabited by the khan and his court. With-
in this inclosure are a mosque, the dwellings of the khan and his chil-
dren, the harem, surrounded by a garden and concealed by trees- a
house in which the msMeghi transacts his business and receives au-
diences, another one in which he dwells— this being a high mark of favor
—and finally the apartments for the people and the slaves, the stables, etc
borne storks have built their nests upon the summit of the towers

In Bokhara we see streets half a mile long, covered, and bordered on
each side with shops ; one row containing women's slippers only, another
supplied with drugs and aromatics which perfume the air, a third with
jewels, usually of little value, for example, turkoises of Persia, Tartar
rubies from the lake of Badakhshan and from Arabia ; diadems of gold
ornamented with inferior turkoises, for the Kirghiz women. Larce
vaults are filled with nothing but dried fruits and tobacco ; others with
pistachios preserved in manna, with prunes, rose-colored or green
grapes, pomegranates, and melons suspended along the walls on cords'
among these magazines are eating-houses in which are prepared rice
cooked with butter or mutton-fat, and often colored yellow with safl!ion
and another dish consisting of hashed meat. '

During my stay at Bokhara, six robbers, Persian slaves by birth, and
two ladjiks, were hung upon the gallows; some heads of Khivans, of
Ouzbeks, from Kokand, and the environs of Balkh, and others, were set
ap on posts, or exposed upon the ground near the gibbet. The popu-
lace accustomed to this spectacle, continued their traffic upon the square
without casting a look of compassion upon these terrible pictures ; it was
not thus with our soldiers, who looked upon these scenes for the first
tune m their lives.

Every thing in Bokhara shows that the city was formerly more flour-
ishing than It IS now ;— the coUeges and mosques are partly fallen, or are
badly preserved. I saw large crevices in the arches of a temple entirely
new; these accidents are attributed to earthquakes, but I think they
may be charged to the ignorance of the architects. Nine or ten miles
from Bokhara, in the direction of Wafkend, there has been a very ancient
bridge, built of bricks, in a single arch across the Zer-afshiln ; it is fallen,
and has not been reconstructed ; the stone steps which lead to the wells
are impaired, and no one thinks of repairing them. They no longer know
how to make the blue tiles which adorn the public edifices; they con-
struct no new buildings which indicate either taste or riches. A portion
of the most beautiful street of Bokhara is encumbered with stones which

!■

^ii^

844 MEYENDORPP'S JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

formerly composed the pavement. Even the private houses, of which
only the ancient ones have basements of stone, prove that this capital is
not so rich nor so well governed as it was in former times.

It is very difficult to estimate the population of a countiy inhabited
by so many different nations, of wliich a part is nomadic, and where an
enumeration has never been made. In order to present something satis-
factory in this respect, we consulted in Bokharia all who could give us
any certain information on the subject. The cultivated portion of the
khanate may be estimated at twelve hundred square leagues, or three
hundred thousand square miles. If we suppose each of these square
miles inhabited by five thousand souls, as in the richest countries of Italy,
we have as a result, in Bokharia, one million five hundred thousand m-
habitants, living by agriculture, or semi-nomadic, and living in the cities,
and by adding nearly a million of the wandering tribes, we find that the
population of Bokharia is more than two millions of souls.

This population may be subdivided as follows :

Ouzbeks 1,600,000

Tadjiks 650,000

Turcomans 200,000

Arabs, • 60.000

Persians, 40,000

Calmucks 20,000

Kirprh'.ze3 and Kara-kalpaks, 0,000

Jews. 4.000

Afghans, 4.000 "

Lesghizes, 2,000

Bohemians 2,000

Tot4 2,478,000

The Khanates of Asia carry on with the Kirghizes and the Turcomans
a trade in slaves, which is chiefly supplied by the robberies of these wan-
dering tribes, and by the wars with the Persians. The taking of Merye
added twenty-five thousand to the number of Persian slaves in Bokharia,
which is estimated at forty thousand. Five or six hundred Russians are
held in slavery ; they have been sold by Kirghizes, by Turcomans, who
seize fishermen wrecked upon the eastern shore of the Caspian Sea, or by

Khivans.

Among the slaves of Bokharia there are likewise Chetrars, Siapooshes,
Hczarehs, and even Georgians. The number scarcely diminishes, for
they have Persian wives given to them, and their existence and well-
being is connected with the interest of their masters. The price of an
able-bodied man ranges from forty to fifty tellas (|130 to $160). If he
is an artisan, for instance a joiner, a furrier, or a shoemaker, he brings as
much as one hundred tellas ($320). The women usually sell higher than
the men, at least if they are young and beautiful ; they are then worth
from one hundred to one hundred and fifty tellas ($320 to $480). The
condition of the slaves in Bokharia is horrible. The Russians nearly all

ARA.

louses, of which

lat this capital is

es.

suntiy inhabited

ic, and where an

something sfitis-
ho could give us
d portion of the
leagues, or three

of these square
ountries of Italy,
red thousand in-
king in the cities,

we find that the
Is.

1,600,000

650,000

200,000

60,000

40,000

20,000

6,000

4,000

2,000

. 2,478,000

ad the Turcomans
ries of these wan-
i taking of Merve
aves in Bokharia,
dred Russians are
^ Turcomans, who
Caspian Sea, or by

etrars, Siapooshes,
ly diminishes, for
xistence and well-
The price of an
) to $160). If he
laker, he brings as
ly sell higher than
ey are then worth
20 to $480). The
Russians nearly all

RUSSIAN SLAVES.

345

complain of being badly fed and most cruelly beaten. I saw one whoso
master had cropped his ears, pierced his hands with a nail, cut the skin
upon his back, and poured boiling oil upon his arms, in order to make
him confess by what route his comrade had escaped. The cus/t-beohi
finding one of his Russian slaves intoxicated, had him taken next day to
tlio Kogistan to be hung. On reaching the gallows, the unhappy man
was solicited to abjure his religion and become a Mohammedan, in order
to obtain pardon, but he preferred to die a martyr to his faith. The
greater part of the Russian slaves in the vicinity of Bokhara were locked
up, and worked with irons upon their feet during the last weeks of our stay
in the city. A single Russian slave succeeded in rejoining us seventy
miles from Bokhara, after having wandered eighteen days in the desert ;
during this time he had subsisted on water and meal only. He expressed,'
in a most simple and touching manner, the alarms he had experienced on
seeing us (for he feared lest we might be Kirghizes, Khivans, or Ouz-
beks), and the extreme joy he felt when he recognized our Cossacks. I
can not describe the unbounded happiness of a dozen Russian slaves whom
we purchased in Bokharia, and during the journey. They shed tears of
joy. The Bokharian government would have been so cruel as to pre-
vent these Russians, who had been purchased. ^ om returning to their
country. It even forbade its subjects from bulling any Russians to us,
under the pretext that they Avould thereby duninish the number of prose-
lytes which it might make.

In their salutations the Bokharians bend forward a little, place the
right hand upon the heart, and pronounce the word khosh. This civility
is often exaggerated in a most ridiculous manner, especially by the
slaves ; they make the accompanying gesture by turning the head sev-
eral times, inclining it toward the left shoulder, raising the elbows,
holdmg the two hands upon the heart, smiling in a silly manner, and
pronouncing the word khosh with emphasis, as if they would split their
sides with laughing.

In the streets the women wear a long mantle, the sleeves of which
are connected behind, and a black vail which completely conceals the
face. They see badly through this vail, but the greater part of them
would slyly lift up one comer when they met one of us ; the Tadjik
women also took pleasure in allowing us to see their beautiful eyes. It
became fashionable among the ladies of Bokhara to go and look at the
Franks ; the extremity of the roof of our house was a place of meeting
for them, and the limit which decorum imposed upon their curiosity.
There, less observed by the Bokharians, a few pretty women presented
themselves to our gaze, and we frequently admired eyes full of fire, su-
perb teeth, and a most beautiful complexion. The Bokharian severity
soon put an end to this too Avorldly procedure ; the police took measures
for preventing the women from ascending our roof, and we lost the
pleasure of a scene which enlivened our repasts.

Wo remained in this city from the 20th of December, 1820, until the

1^^

346

MEYENDORFF'S JOURNEY TO BOKHARA.

10th of March, 1821 : the weather having hecomo very fine we then re-
paired to Bazartchi. The bivouac in the gardens of that place appeared
to U8 far preferable to the sojourn in the gloomy houses ot Bokhara

On the 22d of March we set out from Bazartchi; on the 25th we
left Bokhara, well pleased to have aeen the country, but still better satis-
fied to get away from it.

iRA.

iiio we then re-
place ai)pcared
)t' Bokhiua.
n the 25th we
till better satis-

)

J. 1

II Ij i«u

PAR'

TIMICOVSKT-'S

CATTCOCmLlXB'S

— .-._ — Jlmlt:

^ ;C_HpM ttr ltf;_ V^OO. Ac rog ka.pm^ N_K w YCK .J

^i.

Jm.

mv-

•^'

'^'

>>»»»»

•v^

ix"';/

TIMKOVSKTS

JOURNEY FROM SIBERIA TO PEKIN,

For more thwi a century Russia has maintained at Pekin a convent
and a school for the instruction of interpreters in the Chinese and Man-
choo languages. Every ten years the persons composing these two es-
tablishments are renewed, and new monks and pupils are sent from St
Petersburg to the capital of China. This little caravan is conducted by
a Russian officer, commissioned to take charge of it, to install it upon
Its arrival in Pekm, and then to lead back to their country the monks
whose term has expired and the pupils who have completed their studies.
It was on a mission of this kind that Timkovski, Attache of the College
of Foreign Affairs, set out in 1820 from Kiakhta, a fort situated on the
frontiers between the Russian possessions and those of China. He tra-
versed. Mongolia, passed the Great Wall, and arrived on the 1st of De-
cember at Pekin, where he remained until the 16th of May in the fol-
lowing year.

All the European embassies which have gone to Pekm have made
but a very short stay in the capital of the Chinese empire, and have been
contmually subjected to a most annoying surveillance, prompted by the
distrust which the Chinese exhibit toward strangers. M. Timkovski
vmted Pekin under much more &vorable auspices; like all Russians he
enjoyed fuU liberty, being allowed to pass through the various quarters
of that immense city and to visit aU its monuments and curiosities.
Hence he was enabled to make more accurate observations than the trav-
elers who had previously visited China; besides which, he had at his
disposal several mterpreters who were perfectly acquamted with the
language of the country; consequently his remarks are worthy of greater
confidence than those of the travelers who, bemg unacquainted with
either Chmese or Manchoo, could not enter into conversation with the
mhabitants of the empire.

On the 14th of June, 1728, a treaty of peace was concluded between
t/ount Vladislavitch, embassador extraordmary of Russia, and the rain-
wters of Chma. The fifth article is as follows: "The Russians shall

850

TIMKOVSKI'S JOURNEY TO FEKIN.

l.enceforth occupy in Pekin the kuan, or court, winch they at present m-
habit. In accordance with the wiwhes .,f the llussmn embassador a
church shall be erected, with the assistance of the Chinese government.
The priest who resides at Pekui, and the three others who are expected,
according to the articles of agreement, shall be lodged m the kua,^ or
court, above-mentioned. These three priests shall be connected with
the same church, and receive the same provisions as the present priest
The Russians will be permitted to worship God accordmg to the ritej of
their religion. There shall likewise be received into this house four
young students, and two of a more advanced age, conversant with the
llussian and Latin languages, whom the embassador is de«roi« ojleav-
mg in Pekin in order to learn the languages of the country. T^^Vff
be supported at the expense of the emperor and shall be a hberty to
return to their country as soon as they shall have completed their

studies." . . • .• e

In accordance with this treaty, the Russian mission, consisting ot

six ecclesiastical members and four laymen was f f ^«J«^;" ^^^"'•
The lay members were young men engaged m the study of the Manchoo
and Chinese languages, and in acquiring correct infoi-mation respecting
the country. The usual sojourn of the mission at Pekm is ^^f «^t «°
years, but the correspondence between the R«f 'f ™?J«*«7V pS
affairs in the name of the controlling senate, and the tribunal of Pekm,
is subject to so many delays, that the stay of the mission ^r^^YJ^'
tinues for a longer period. In conformity with the fifth article of the
eatv a new mifsion set out from St. Petersburg in 1819 to rep ace that
which had been in Pekin smce the 10th of January, 1808. It arrived
It MouskL February, 1820, and on the 15th of July at Ti.itsko;savsk
a fortress better known under the name of Kiakhta, where it made prep-
arations to pass the frontiers withm a month. . . * „
M. Timkovski was ordered to accompany the new mission fiom
Kiakhta to Pekm, and to bring back the one which had been there
since 1808. His retinue was composed of an inspector of ^Wge, an
interpreter of Mongolese and Manchoo, and a detachment of thirty Cos-
aS The latter were to escort the baggage From the time the m^
sion passed the Russian frontiers, it was under the protection of the

Chinese government. , .■.■,■ ^ *«

The lesion prepared to leave Russia as early as possible m order to
avoid the difficulties inseparable from a journey in the latter end of
autumn across the eold and arid steppes of Mcngoha, and especiaUy m
the desert of Gobi. The Chinese conductors did »«* ^^"7 ""*J *^^
27th of August at Maimatcbin, which is the Chmese port of Kiakhta,
situated immediately on the frontier, three miles from Troxtsko-sav^^
M. Timkovski repaired thither and hastened the preparations for the
iournev The staff of the Chinese conductors consisted of an inspector
ind J'boshko, or sergeant-major. The former, named Tschmg w^« *
bUkheahi, or secretary of the seventh class, and was sixty years of age ,

DEPARTURE FROM KIAKUTA.

851

at present in-
jinbassador a
government,
are expected,
1 the kuan, or
)nnected with
present priest,
to the ritea of
lis house four
rsant with the
isirous of loav-
y. They shall
oe at liberty to
umpleted their

1, consisting of
shed in Pekin.
of the Manchoo
ition respecting
1 is fixed at ten
lister of foreign
bunal of Pekin,
sion usually con-
,h article of the
9 to replace that
808. It arrived
t Troitskojsavsk,
;rc it made prep-

iw mission from
lad been there
of baggage, an
jnt of thirty Cos-
the time the mis-
)rotection of the

jsible, in order to
le latter end of

and especially in
>t arrive until the
port of Kiakhta,
a Troitsko-savsk.
parations for the
ed of an inspector
d Tsching, was a

:ty years of age ;

he wore upon his cup, but only out of the capital, a white button of
opa(]uc stone, which gave liim the rank of mandarin of the sixlii cluhs.
lie was accunipuniud by Chackdor, a Mongolusu interpreter aged twenty
years, and two nerbsy or servants, father and son. Gurgentai, the boshko,
was forty-seven years of age ; out of tlio capital ho wore on his cap a
gilded button indicating the seventh class, and was attended by a serv-
ant. There was yet one important affair to bo attended to before set-
ting out. It was necessary to bestow a few presents upon the conduct-
ors to induce them, as the season was so fur advanced, to provide tlu;
mission without delay with yoiirtes, or kibitkas (felt-tents), and other
objects indispensable to so long a journey.

On the 30th of August the festival of the Emperor Alexander was
celebrated by a 7^ Deum chanted in the church of lUakhta. It was
followed by a dinner given by the counselor of chancery, commissioner
of the frontier, at which were present the Tsargoochee of Maimatchin,
the boshko, the principal Chinese merchants, and the conductors of the
mission. They drank to the health of the emperor and of the Bogdo-
khan (emperor of China), and to an eternal friendship between the two
empires. These toasts were drunk to the sound of volleys of artillery
and the ringing of bells ; the soldiers of the garrison, in full parade,
made the air resound with songs of rejoicing. The joy and freedom
which reigned in this little festival of the Russians made a lively im-
pression on the minds of their guests.

The preliminary arrangements being finally all completed, the mis-
sion set forward on the 31st of August. The baggage went in advance
to the first station, about five miles from Kiakhta. The mission was ac-
companied by the dignitaries and principal citizens of Troitska-savsk to
Kiakhta, where they all repaired to church, after which they were enter-
tained at a dinner by the merchants of the place. After dinner they
went to thank God once more upon the soil of their country ; then, ac-
companied by the clergy of Kiakhta, preceded by crucifixes, and at-
tended by the ringing of bells, they arrived at the frontier. Notwith-
standing the rain a large concourse of curious Russians and Chinese was
assembled. After stopping awhile at the house of the Tsargoochee, they
entered the Chinese em;iire at six o'clock in the evening, accompanied
by the custom-house director, and the counselor of chancery. Arriving
at some tents which the Chinese had erected at the distance of two
miles, the Tsargoochee offered them tea ; they then took leave of their
fellow-countrymen and proceeded on their journey through a heavy rain.
A detachment of twenty Mongolese troopers formed their advance-
guard. Toward seven o'clock they halted, after having gone about
three miles. They found four yourtes prepared for them ; one was for
the clergy, another for the students, the third for M. Timkovski and
suite, and the fourth for the Cossacks. The baggage had already ar-
rived ; the horses and oxen fed ; as to the camels, they were prepared
for the journey by depriving them of food and drink for twelve days.

852

TIMKOVSKI'S JOURNEY TO PEKIN.

The horses which had been cinijloyed in transporting the baggago were
deprived of food nil night, in order to strengthen them, aceordhig to the
custom of the Mongoleso and the inhabitants of Siberia.

They made preparations for departing at an early liour next morning,
but n long time passed before the camels were caught and loaded, as
they were very wild ; one of the horses started to run toward the front-
ier so swiftly that the Cossacks and Mongols could not recapture it. At
length they succeeded in getting under way ; the baggage went in ad-
vance, then the camels and the vehicles, an arrangement which was ob-
served throughout the journey. The members of the mission then pro-
ceeded in equipages, and the horses followed slowly, in order to husband
their strength. The oxen wore left under the safeguard of a Mongolese,
with five soldiers under him; at night three Cossacks watched alter-
nately. In order to have an eye over all, M. Timkovski made the whole
journey on horseback, having under his orders an inspector of baggage,
the interpreter, and a Cossack. The summer having been rainy, the
plain was covered with water and extremely muddy ; after having trav-
eled two miles they reached a more elevated place, whence they beheld
Kiakhta ; the church, the houses of their friends and other places which
were known to them, were the last objects which recalled their country,
suggesting the hope of one day returning to it.

The koudoni of their next station, situated upon the right bank of the
Ibitsykh, came to meet them, and saluted them in the manner of the
borscmen of the steppes ; ho dismounted from his horse, bent the left
knee before Timkovski, rested his right arm upon his side, and support-
ing it with the left hand, cried, "-4moMr /" (peace). He then remounted
and conducted them by a ford to the tents, where the mission arrived at
four o'clock in the evening. During the night, the thermometer indi-
cated twenty-five degrees Fahrenheit. In the valleys, surrounded by
high mountains, the air is always cold ; beyond Kiakhta, which is quite
elevated, there is a considerable ascent to the desert of Gobi ; this they
perceived in the continually increasing cold of the atmosphere. M.
Struve, who was in the southern part of the country of the Khalkhas, on
the 20th of December, 1805, states that at twelve miles from Kiakhta,
the great elevation of that part of Mongolia obliged him to take a large
quantity of hot tea ; and yet his health did not suffer in consequence.

They found their linen tents quite useless, the texture not being com-
pact enough; and they could not kindle a fire in them. Having no
yourtes, which are so serviceable to those who traverse the steppes, and
deprived of the time and means of obtaining water and argaJ, or fuel,
which is used in the desert, they were sometimes obliged, by the habitual
indolence of their Chinese conductors, to have recourse to the inhabit-
ants for aid, especially in obtaining good pastures for their animals. M.
Timkovski testified their gratefulness to the people for these favors Viy
small presents. In the morning their departure was again delayed by
the difficulty in harnessing the horses of the steppes, which were not ao-

3 baggage were
iccording to the

r next morning,
, and loaded, as
oward the front-
ccapturo it. At
jage went in ad-
it which was ob-
nission then pro-
)rder to husband
I of a Mongolese,
» watched alter-
i made the whole
ictor of baggage,
; been rainy, the
ifter having trav-
icnce they beheld
ther places which
led their country,

right bank of the
he manner of the
orse, bent the left
side, and support-
e then remounted
mission arrived at
thermometer indi-
es, surrounded by
tita, which is quite
»f Gobi; this they

atmosphere. M.
iftheKhalkhas, on
dies from Kiakhta,
lira to take a large
in consequence,
ure not being com-
them. Having no
se the steppes, and

and argal, or Cuel,
;ed, by the habitual
urse to the inhabit-

their animals. M.
for these favo^^ ^y
IS again delayed by
which were not ao-

!ir'i"«l

if ft

,.^..

'»

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

|Z8

u 114

2.2

I.I

iy4

|1.25|

M 1 14

►

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

iniHMMnni

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHIVI/ICIVIH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historicai IVIicroreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

""««ll

THE PRAYER OF THE MONGOLS.

853

customed to drawing carriages. The Mongolese admired the dexterity
and courage of the Cossacks, who managed three wild horses at a time.

At a short distance a mountain rose on one hand, and on the left ex-
tended a deep valley in which they saw some scattered yourtes and a
few solitary birch-trees. They descended thither by a narrow path
along the steep rocks of the Isagan-oola, or White Mountain, whose base
AVBs carpeted with luxuriant herbage. The rocks were covered with
woods, chiefly of birch, whose yellow-tinted leaves announced the ap-
proach of autumn. The heat of the day frequently obliged the camels
to stop, and greatly retarded their journey. From the summit of the
mountains lying midway between the Ibitsykh and the Iro, they j)er-
ceived a plain of a few miles circuit, surrounded by mountains, and
sprinkled over with fields of millet and other gr.iiii. On approaching
this plain a lama of a very advanced age, who was going on horseback
to visit his fields, accompanied them for a long time. He held in one
hand a string of beads, which he raised toward the sky. This priest of
Buddha was continually repeating these words : Om. ma ni bat me khom;
he accompanied them with deep sighs, and pronounced them in the tone
adopted for the prayers, which greatly resembles the sound of a double-
bass, or the humming of bees. Every follower of Buddha is obliged to
recite this prayer as often as he can, while devoting himself to pious
meditations. In order that it may not be forgotten, it is written upon
linen, paper, wood, and stone, in the temples, in the tents, and by the
wayside. The Mongolese lamas pretend that these words : Om ma ni
bat me khom, to which they ascribe a mysterious and supernatural
power, exempt the faithful from suffering in a future life, increase their
good qualities, and bring them nearer divine perfection.

The inhabitant of these steppes, convinced of the existence of a su-
preme, incomprehensible, and all-powerful Being, whose power extends
over all nature, believes that his beneficent spirit manifests itself most
willingly in objects which appear in colossal forms. For this reason
a huge rock, a lofty moimtain, a large tufted tree, or a great river,
is an object of reverence to a Mongolese. Before this he raises,
with reverence, according to the direction of a lama, an abo, or altar
of stone, sand, earth, or wood, before which ho prostrates himself
to adore the divinity. In time of war he desires aid to vanquish
his enemy and to defend his country ; he addresses it when sickness
afflicts his family or his cattle, and in all misfortunes. A Mongolese who
meets with an abo, descends from his horse, places himself on its south-
em side, turning his fece toward the north, and, prostrating himself
many times upon the earth, deposits something upon the altar. They
often saw locks of hair upon the abocs, these being the votive offerings
of wandering horsemen in behalf of their cattle, their inseparable com-
panions.

Leaving the plain by a narrow passage between the hills, they de-
scended to the meadows of the Iro, and reached the banks of that river

•W

854

TIMKOVSKI'S JOURNEY TO PBKIN.

in the cvenmg. A great number of the inhabitants, and the people attached
to the service of the priests, were assembled there to a,d the mission m
cros in. The continual rains of summer had swollen the waters oi the
river, and increased the rapidity of the current The most important ef-
fects were transported on komygas, or large beams of hollowed pines,
somewhat resembUng canoes, which were lashed together m pairs fo
paTsin.^ the water. The camels forded the stream higher up With a^l
S exertions, the transportation was not completed by ten o'clock
Te people forded the stream next day, and one of the Cossacks caught
. Wrom which he suffered a long time. In the evening, the tsang-
Inn of the place called upon M. Timkovski, and entreated lum to excr-
ciol authority in forbiddmg the students to continue the amusemen
of Vig, in which they were engaged. He hastened to comply with
the wishes of the Mongolese, who regard the fishes as sacred in accord-
ance with their belief in metempsychosis, a dogma of their religion.

The night was mild, and the mission set forth early on the mornmg
of the 3d. As soon as they had left their camp, some Mongolese women
who had charge of the domestic affairs, came to fold up the tents; in a
very short tim^c they finished this work, loaded the camels, and reUred.
Throughout the iouniey the yourtes for the guides were prepared in ad-
vance but tho^^^^^^^^ the^ mission were borrowed from the inhabitants of
he neighborhood, and mostly from the poorer classes. After traveling
fifteen^ they reached an elevation, upon whicH stood a - oss^l rock ;
to re^i.^h , rose the summit of Narcen Koundoo covered with lofty
IZ- we tward, near the mouth of the Selby, which emp les mto the
OcS^n Znt Mingadara reached the clouds. Near this «u>untain
Uiere are said to be a great number of temples, in the largest of which
ntryLrlusandlLasassembleonthedaysofsolemnfestiva^^ De-

scendCbyanarrowand difficult path, theyreached a co^^^^^^
thence Foceeding by a short ascent, they came to tl^e ban^-^ ^^^^^^^^
Shara where they halted in a spot surrounded by mountains Here they
fc„:aV:;::x*.lL yonr.c, a.f prepared ; «^o» for the Abot and T^m-
kovski were hung with nankeen, with a colored border , tbe Boor was
^° ril with a feU carpet. For these attention, they we .ndeb^d to
Idam T«>p, a venerable Mongole*! who accomp.med them. By h.8 or
der,, K.n,obrick» of tea were prepared for the Cos««!k8. .

me Mongotae, and the greater part »*»''«"?"""« "^^IS

'^^;«r:°'°Tre'clTJwhreCn''r^^^^^^

are dried up dirty, or «,^iled, as well a, the .terns, and haying mixed
wW> AemTglntiLs substance, they inclose the ma.. ■" """'.""f ""'J'

[N.

le people attached
iid the mission in
ihe waters of the
iiost important ef-
f hollowed pines,
ither in pairs, fo.
ber up. With all
d by ten o'clock.
9 Cossacks caught
vening, the tsang-
lated him to excr-
ue the amusement
ed to comply with

sacred, in accord-
their relierion.
ly on the morning
Mongolese women

up the tents ; in a
amels, and retired,
ere prepared in ad-

the inhabitants of
s. After traveling
lod a colossal rock ;

covered with lofty
3h empties mto the
rear this mountain
he largest of which
lemn festivals. De-
ft contracted gorge ;
le banks of the river
untains. Here they
the abbot and Tim-
)rder ; the floor was
ey were indebted to
id them. By his or-

icks.

dering tribes of Mid-
lace of both victuals
a considerable trade
aside the leaves that
3, and having mixed
lass in oblong molds,
ates, the inhabitants
ucks, take a lump of
powder into a bronze
jon the fire for some

MORAL CODE OF THE BUDDHISTS.

865

time, adding to it a little salt and milk ; they sometimes mix with it some
flour fried in oil.

On encamping, the second evening afterward, a crowd of Mongolese
immediately surrounded their equipages, the ironed wheels especially at-
tracting their attention. The Mongolese carriage is usujilly constructed
with two wheels, which turn with the axle. The wheel is formed of two
small square blocks of wood, placed across each other, and having the
angles rounded ofi". Next day, they crossed the Tumcrkay, Avhose sum-
mit was crowned by a colossal abo of stones, and then passed by a rapid
descent through the gorges of that mountain, and contmued their route
through narrow defiles where lofty mountains towered up on one hand,
while on the other enormous rocks hung over their heads. Emerging
from these, they i)assed over a dangerous declivity, and entered a plain
which led to the Khara (black) River, on whose banks they encamped.
It rained all night ; the weather was continually cloudy. For the first
time they were obliged to make use of their four yourtes and their tents,
in order to shelter the baggage from the rain. After dinner they fished
in the Khara. This exercise, unknown to the Mongolese, attracted a
crowd of spectators. They were richly rewarded for their pains, but
their venerable Mongolese friend, Idam Tsap, a zealous believer in metemp-
sychosis, soon came with his nephew, and entreated them to throw the
fish back into the water ; which they thought it best to do.

It may be well to observe here in explanation of this circumstance
that the moral code of Buddha reckons ten mortal sins, or black actions^
divided thus :

Sim of the body : — Assassination, theft, fornication.

Sins of speech: — Lying, calumny, obscene words, and threatening
expressions.

Sim of the soul: — Vengeance, envy, the abandonment of the true
doctrine.

The ten supreme virtues, or white actiom, consist in every thing
which is opposed to these sins. Homicide alone is not the greatest
sin, but, according to the ideas concerning the transmigration of souls, it
is a sin to kill the smallest animal. No lama, no pious Mongolese, will
take the life of an insect: still it is permitted to eat the flesh of animals
slaughtered by another. This is probably because many of the steppes,
not being adapted to tillage, offer only flesh for nourishment.

Toward evening several Mongolese, attracted by the singing of the
Cossacks, gathered near to listen to them, and even the guides heard
them with pleasure. It was evident that the melody was to their taste.
Meanwhile the boshko was resting in the tent of the abbot an<l attempt-
ing to learn by heart some Russian words, such as : liaran (ram), ovtsa
(ewe), kon (horse), votka (brandy), rittmka (glass of wine), etc. As to
verbliud (camel), and others like it, he could not pronounce them be-
cause of the accumulated consonants. For the rest, the Manchoos and

TIMIOVSKia ..OUBNKY TO PKKIN

366

,h» Mongotao have «., «r...tor MUy .1.." the Chinos in pn>-

"Tto^'viS.rofV"-''" ,Oth,.Ueycn«»„Fa ■" *«, «»'<■'
In tne evenuij, ui "v^, Snnth-west from their tents

Mount Noin, on *^« ^^^^j/^^^^^^ va«t rampart, ab-

rose a moun am which presented t^^^^^^ Khorimtu, or the place of
Tuptly termmated by a «tccp wcK, ^« ^ g^^^ f^^^ ^ lake

arrival. Westward -^^JX J ^^^^^ summit of Mount Our-
of the same name, and southward was seen ^^^^^^^^^

ss;°:.r *t,tr .natsi of *» o^'^ "■° »'* ** "^°
J:, tj^i .h.iu^h . "H^""^-^- TrsnTot

tog w.a de*=6naing by totomc «"* 4»"8^"\^^;^ „ ,h„ „„„„,»to

„f pine., f'f «7^»„'" ^^ S t^ -a. aeVon-tea with piece, of
venerated by the Mongoiese. x ,., ^, ^yotegg suspend

of ,h. latter animals, their black ~'°^»°* *"*y *»^: «^t„ 'S «s

:-r?-5:rroSS^^'r;he

r^'^Seth^nrUT^^^^onho.^*"!^^

their arrival at Pekm. , ^. .,^tut6 or highest Buddhist priest,

Among other adorers of the khutukhtu, o^ J»g"« returning

they met^he lama o^ I^^^J^^^e't^^^^^ «^" '

from the Ourga, where he had been to Pay^^a horse and drew from
As soon as he came near he leaped ^Tj^^'^Z.Xox containing
his bosom a khadak, in which was ^^;^f-^.^^^Zl2^od th,ml
«nall Chinese cakes which he presented to them ^d^^^^^^ ^^

■■ ■i r i— T i M ill ■ * ■ *

IN.
Chinese in pro-

>d at the foot of
from their tents
, vast rampart, ab-
, or the place of
Bore, from a lake
lit of Mount Our-
caravan, attracted
tention of walking
ilakhclii Boon came
from going, as the
to them by a Cos-
e to light that the
ited to every body,
?ho with their trsun

urghemyl, and con-
, frequently ascend-
8. In the afternoon
tu, or the mountain
I its summit, greatly
•ated with pieces of
he devotees suspend
on in the midst of a
partly covered with
buffaloes were scat-
singular appearance
lair, greatly terrified
with Mongolese re-
eghen-khutukhtd, or
me to see them; he
1 horseback, and was
ivski and the Cossack
jss in the sciences, on

hest Buddhist priest,
o. He was returning
J to the deified child.
lOTse and drew from
paper-box contsuning
n and wished th^m a
idtiikhtu for life. In
to him a knife. He
lighly applauded their
in passing the Ourga.

MONGOLKSE SONGS.

357

The khad&k is a yellow or pearl-colored band of silk, oniamented with
small figures of the same color. The Mongolese and Thibetans suspend
these khadaks before their idols to decorate their oft'criiigs, and attach
their prayers to them. The young people present thcin to the more
aged, as a proof of esteem and devotion, and they are exchanged by per-
sons of the same age in token of friendship. They place a large arrow,
enveloped in a khad&k, on the places where the remains of their rel-
.itives and friends repose. The khadak umst bo blessed by a lamii;
it is only after this ceremony that it acquires supernatural virtues.

In the evening of the 13th, the north-west wind, the harbinger of a
rainy season, began to blow with force. Several of the Mongolese sen-
tinels sang their national songs. M. Timkovski called two of them to
him and gave them some brandy, to induce them to continue singing.
The airs of their songs resemble each other ; they arc generally plaintive
and harmonious. The horse, the friend and companion of the inhabit-
ant of the steppe, always takes a prominent place in these songs. Tim-
kovski gives the following translations of some songs which he heard.
" In this vast plain was born the dun-colored charger, swift as the arrow,
the ornament of the herd, the glory of the whole tribe. Called to the
chase by the ruler, Idam flies to the forest of Kharatchin, overthrows
the goats and the stags, and fells the fierce wild boars and the terrible
panthers. Every one admires the boldness of the rider and the fleetness
of his steed."

" Behold the young Tsyren, armed for the service of the khan ; he
flics to the Russian frontier to guard Mendzin ; he addresses his prayers
to the household divinities ; he takes leave of his father and mother :
with sadness his wife saddles his black horse. With a sad and dreamy
air the cavalier speeds away toward the north. The wind of the desert
scarcely moves the plumes of his arrows, and his elastic bow resounds
upon his saddle. Tsyren rides through gloomy and unknown forests ;
in the distance he beholds blue mountains which are strange to him ; the
friendly words of the Cossacks, his valiant companions, cheer his sad-
dened soul ; but his thoughts ever return to the paternal mountains."

" With unquiet soul, with a spirit bowed under an unknown weight,
the young Mongol sees in his dreams the shades of warriors, his ances-
tors, pass before his eyes."

"Where is our Genghis-khan, menacing and fearless? His high
deeds resound in melancholy songs amid the rocks of Onon and upon
the green banks of Kherulun. ♦ * * Who advances upon the
pleasant road beside the Shara, singing in a low voice some cherished
words ? Whose is this bay-brown courser that runs so swiftly ? What
seek the eyes of this brave youth, passing before the white tents ? his
heart knows well who is she that dwells there. Soon will he cease to
traverse these mountains ; soon Avill his fiery courser win for him a
bride. * * * This bay steed, this steed like a whirlwind, he is pre-
pared for the course. * * * The abo is covered with spectators.

I ,

358 TIMKOVSKl'S JOUUNEY TO PEKIN.

He i.eiuhs- with hi. light feet he grazes the pointed flints. Tl.e signal
W r^^^^ Clouds of dust cover the racer; and

;;fw charger, always victorious, arrives first, leaving h. rwals m the

'"on the. 14th of September, at the break of day, the nun M «
^ntlv the summits of the mountains were concealed m a thick mist.
iT L^in« oTr the heights of Mount Nareen they met a number oi
Lmas and Mongolese of inferior rank, returning from theOurga; .among
Sr ::' a vSthy old omcer, the commander of a body ot wand^mg

camels surrounded »>y «»^^*^ ° .^ ^,^, ,^i„ f,ii incessantly, accom-

"^TrSi:Sr"f'S:i^!rt^^^ the travele. were ..s.
V.V a cro vd?f beigars, who afe with avidity the bread and meat which
thev Ivo them These miserable creatures came from the most remote

inscriptions in the Thibetan language upon them. These vn ere unmteUi

ARRIVAL AT TRK OURGA.

850

ints. Tlic signal
;r the nicer ; and
\r his rivals iii tho

rjuii fell ab'.ind'
iu a thick mist,
act a number of
he Oiirga ; among
ody of wandering
;arricd by several
ited in a chariot,
icessantly, accora-
gth a damp snow
fell. Finally they
hey halted at two
the Ourga, to an-

ad received official
lo had died on the
as alarming to M.
t the continuation
the mission of this

others, a Chinese
mgarian Calmucks,
)eror Khang-hi, was
antains in order to

his grief from his
itil he had received
ntinuc his route to
balls were removed
rics ; even the serv-
ged to clothe them-
is was in token of

travelers were beset
ead and meat which
om the most remote
igth the caravan set
nd the road became
Guntoo, the highest
of the mountain was
jmally ; it was only
rawn up. The sum-
the pilgrims who go
one and wood, with
riiese were unintelli-

gible to the Russians, and even to tho Moiigolcsc lamas; jirobably tlicy
contained tho mystorious prayer bolbro alludoti to. On the niouiituin
thoy met a young man of rank, wlm had boon at tlu^ Ourjjja, adorinjjf
tho lama, lie was surrounded by Mongoloso foliowi'rs, iirmod with
bows .ind arrows ; while his family and kindrod an<l a numorous rotiniio
accompanied him, all mounted on beautiful black horses. This troop
W.1S distinguished by its lu.\ury and wealth ; the wonu-n wore ospocially
remarkable for their fine fonns, painted complexions, and tor the splen-
dor of their attire. Their robes were of fine blue satin, their oiips of
sable, their silken girdles interlaced with silver and adorned with coriio-
lians. Even their 8.tddles were ornamented with those stones. These
beautiful amazons approached the strangers without timidity, atid sooniod
willing to honor them with their attention. Tho descent from tho mount-
ain was stoop and difficult. Thoy followed tho course of tho Solby, a
small but rapid stream, which led through a narrow defile betwoon two
lorty mountains. Withui five miles of the Ourga they passed some small
temples, and further on a very largo one, of Thibetan architecture, in
the midst of an amphitheater of mountains. Upon the highest rocks
around they read several characters of colossal size, carved in tiin Thibet-
an language upon the white rock. Tlie Mongolcse conductors said thoy
contained the celebrated prayer : Om ma ni fxif, tne khom.

It was simsct when they arrived at tho Ourga and entered tho Rus-
sian court, situated eastward of tho residence of theGheghen-khutukhtii,
or Grand Lama. The Ourga consisted of yourtes. The Mongolese sen-
tinels who guarded the doors, armed with bows and arrows, restrained
the people who gathered in crowds to seen tho Russian travelers. On
the morning of tho 16th, the Tsargouchee Hoai came from the Mai-ma-
chin, or mart of tho Ourga, to present the compliments of the vang and
the antban to the abbot and M. Timkovski, on their h.ippy arrival. lie
was introduced by the Mongolese conductors, and accompanied by two
Manchoo bitkhechis, members of the yamoun or tribunal of the Ourga,
and another public functionary. Hoai and the two former were clothed
in deep blue robes, above which they wore the white robe of mourning,
and a short cloak of lambskin, with large sleeves. These personages
were followed by a numerous train of domestics, Thoy conversed with
the Russians in Mongolese by the aid of the interpreter, and after in-
quiring if their journey had been pleasant, they asked if thoy intended to
make a long stay at tho Ourga. Timkovski replied that, considering the
lateness of the season, and the liability of encountering delays, they would
remain but four or five days at furthest. Tho dignitaries kindly replied
by inviting them to take the time needed for rest. Thoy likewise an-
nounced that the vang and the ambun would be ready to receive the
mission on the morrow, to which Timkovski replied that they would be
glad to avail themselves of this permission, and stated further that he was
authorized by the governor of Irkoutsk to tender his rospoots in coimoc-
tion with some presents, to the authorities of the Ourga, The interview

860

TIMKOVSKI'S JOUBNKY TO PEKIN.

WW continncd with many civilities, and after their departure other vwitors
were presented, when at length Khart8aj,'!U, a kinsman of the vang, entered
to announce that ho had been cominissioned to aid them m paasmg the time
pleasantly, which might otherwise seem tedious among Btrangers. He
informed them, atuong other things, that when inteUigence of the om-
peror's death was received, the vang had at first intended to suspend
their i.>nrney,and oven send them hack to Kiakhta ; but, considermg
the fatigues they had already undergone, and the expense their govom-
ment had incurred, ho had concluded, on his own responsibility, to alow
them to proceed. They learned, however, from Idam, that the vang had
sent a courier to Pekin, to know what he should do, and that they wou d
be obH.red to remain at the Ourga until the decision of the court should
arrive." Such were the real motives of the repeated invitations they re-
ceived to be at their case in Ourga.

Kartsa"ai left them an instant, then returned with Idam and Uemit
(the latterone of the uispectors appointed for the mission durmgits
stay), and inquired what were the i)resent3 which they had brought.
Timkcvski replied that he did not know, and expressed the desire of
prescntiu- these gifts himself to the vang and the araban. The Mongo-
lese approved of his intention. They afterward questioned him with in-
terest concernmg the countries bordering on Russia; they wished to
know if the terrible war with the French was te^mmated ; if l-ngland
was very far from Russia. ,, , • t .

On the 17th, the mission visited the vang and the amban, the liighest
dicrnitaries of the Ourga. Twelve Cossacks mounted on Mongolese horses,
and advancing two by two, opened the procession; M. Tirakovski fol-
lowed on horseback, with the inspector of baggage and the mterpreter
on either side; next came the carriages of the clergy, accompanied by
the students and otlier priests ; a centurion, followed by two Cossacks,
closed the march. The pubUc fimctionariea of the Ourga walked before
the procession, and at the sides the conductors and other employees with
their suite The difference in features and costume between the Mongo-
lese and the Russians, and even the dissimilarity of their horses, gave to
this train a singular appearance, which was not without interest : on one
hand the white plumes of the Cossacks waving m the air, their glazed
belts, and the blades of their sabers glittering in the sun ; on the o her,
the bright colored satin robes of the Mongolese, and the ribbons of their
caps flowing in the wind. They alighted at the dweUing of the vang, a
modest wooden structure in the Chinese style, and entered the court
The entrancewasprotectedbytwentyoftbe prince's body guard, clothed

in white robes ; they were without belts, and held then- swords m their

^^ Hoai came to meet them, and placing himself on the left (the place
of honor in China), conducted the abbot; Timkovski followed, accom-
panied by the bitkheshi ; Tsing, and the rest of the company came after
them. After traversing a court, they passed into a kind of corridor,

uro other visitors
the vang, entt-red
I pOMHiug the timo
; struiigorH. lie
;encc of tlie jm-
ndvd to suspend
but, considering
ise their govoru-
nsibility, to allow
liiut the voiig had
1 that they would
the court should
[vitatioDB they re-

Idam and Demit
iiission during its
ley had brought,
ssed the desire of
lan. The Mongo-
oned him with in-
they wished to
ated ; if England

imban, the highest
Mongolese horses,
M. Timkovski fol-
[id the interpreter
y, accompanied by
I by two Cossacks,
irga walked before
ler employees with
itween the Mongo-
eir horses, gave to
it interest : on one
le air, their glazed
sun ; on the other,
he ribbons of their
ling of the vaug, a
entered the court,
ody guard, clothed
leii' Bwords in their

the left (the place

1 followed, ficcom-

ompany came after

kind of corridor,

VISIT TO THE VANG AND THE AMBAN.

861

very narrow, which was the hall of reception. One side of the apart-
ment W!M taken up with a large window, trimmed with white paper, in
the middle of which was a large glass plate. Near the window the vang
and the amban were sitting cross-legged upon a common sofa. They
wore short clonks, white, and trimmed above with lambskin. Upon a
small table near the window were some English clocks, which were not
wound up. After the ceremonies of introduction, M. Timkovski, through
the interpreter, addressed the governors of Southern Mongolia, then the
boxes contauung the presents were brought in, and, according to custom,
placed before the vang and the amban ; the former thus expressed his
thanks : "Tho custom of exchangmggitls between neighbors and friends
ia very ancient among us ; therefore, when you return to your comitry,
we will also give you some presents for the governor of Irkoutsk." lie
then caused them to be seated before him, and calling the other jtersons
of the mission to ai)proach him, he addressed them successively as fol-
lows : " These are the khara-lamas (black priests, tho monks) ; these are
the students. lie advised the latter to be diligent to overcome all ob-
stacles and fulfill tho wishes of their government ; to conduct themselves
as people well-born, respectable, and worthy to do honor to their coun-
try." Each one was then served with a cup of tea with sugar. After-
ward, the vang complimented tho abbot, adding that he still remembered
having seen him among the young students on the way to Pekin. When
he had thus severally greeted and addressed the travelers, M. Timkovski
and the abbot proffered him and tho amban some presents of llussian
manufactUi'S, which he politely accepted, and appeared much pleased
with them.

An hour after their return the vang sent to the abbot and Timkovski
seventeen trays of sweetmeats, three ilagons of Chinese wine, called
chaoussifiy made of rice, six pounds of black tea, and to each two pieces
of silk stuff. The other members of the mission received each one piece
of the same stuff. Each present bore his address. The Cossacks re-
ceived two boxes of tea in cakes, containing thirty-six cakes in each.
The vang was a Mongolese piince, descended from Genghis-khan, and
was a near relative of the late Emperor Kia-khing, by his wife. He was
amiable and intelligent, polished in his manners, and appeared to be a
lover of tho arts and sciences, and literature. Having lived a long time
at the court of Pekin, he had often held intercourse with Europeans,
and had acquired a decided predilection for every thing European.
The amban was a subordinate officer, sent out from Pekin to assist the
vang during a term of three years.

On the 18th the mission visited the Mai-ma-chin, or mercantile quar-
ter, and the Tsargoochee ; the clergy riding in carriages, the rest on
horseback. On their arrival the crowd pressed around them in spite of
the cries of two civil officers, who, in conformity with the custom in
China, drove back the intruders with heavy blows of the whip. They
dined with tho Tsargoochee, who received them with great civility, and

862

TIMKOVSKTS JOUHNEY TO PKKIN.

oiitcrtaincl ihciii kiiuUy. In the course of conversation they remarked
tliiit tliey wislied to preparo for their dei.arture in four (hiys, upon wluch
ho ct>uns(lea them anew to rest awhile, aa.linjr tliat the weather was
cold an.l rainy, and tluit by the rules of Chinese astrology he hud se-
leited a propitious day for their departure, concerning which he would
speak to the governors of the Ourga. They thanked him for this proof
of his good intentions toward them.

On their return they saw a number of tents, newly erected; these
belonged to some Mong«)leH«', Avho were going to worship the new khu-
tiikhtii, or lama, and more were expected to arrive. An idea ot tho
festival celebrated by the Mongolese on the manifestation of the new
(Jheglu-n-khiitiikhtu, may bo obtained from tho following details, given
by Pallas, of the one which took place in 1729, in the ancient Ourga
situated on the Iben, a tributary of the Orkhon :

On the 22d of June, at the second hour of tho day, that is, at sun-
rise, the chief temple of the Ourga was decorated for the festival. Op-
i)osite the entrance was placed tho idol bourkhan ayucha ; to the left a
thnme, adorned with precious stones and rich stuffs, had been erected,
and wooden seats had been arranged in tho temple for the lamas. The
sister of the deceased khutukhtii, three Mongolese khans, an amban who
wore a peacock feather in his cap, and was sent from Pekin by tho Em-
peror Ymig-tsing, the father of the new khiitukhth, tho three khans of
the Khalkhas, and several other Mongolese of distuiction, were present
at the festival. Tlio number of lamas amounted to nearly twenty-six
thousand, and of the people, men, women and children, to more than
one hundred thousand. When the most important personages had en-
tered tho temple, two hundred hmces with gilded points and adorned
with bronze figures of wild boasts, were placed in two rows before the
door. At the same time a line of two hundred Mongolese was formed,
bearing drums and large copper trumpets. When all was ready, six
lamas were seen to come out from the temple, bearing upon a chair the
Bister of the deceased khiitiikhtu ; she waa Mowed by the khans, the
vangs, and all the dignitaries, very richly clothed. The cortege moved
in silence to the tent of the new khiitiikhtu, who was living with his
father, Darkhan-chin Chan-vang, at the distance of a mile from the tem-
ple An hour afterward the regenerated khiitiikhtii appeared, conducted
by the prhicipal Mongolese nobles and the oldest lamas, who held him
by the hands and under the arms. They seated him on a horse magnif-
icently harnessed : tho bridle was held on one side by a khubilgan, or
priest of high rank, and on the other by the ta-lama or semor lama.
When tho klmtiikhtu came out of the tent, the lamas began to smg
hymns in his honor, accompanied by the sound of instruments. Then
the nobles and tho people bowed down very low, and raised their hands
toward heaven. Tho train of the khiitiikhtii advanced slowly toward the
temple; the sister of the deceased kliutukhtu, whom the newly chosen
also called his sister, foUowcd him in a sedan chair. Then came the

IN.

on they rciimikcd
(lays, upon which
the weiithtT was

Irolo^jy he had sc-
which \ni would

him for this proof

i-ly croftcd ; these
rHhij) the new khii-
An idea of tho
tation of the new
rting details, given
tho ancient Ourga

ay, that is, at sun-
" the festival. Op-
icha ; to the left a
had been erected,
»r the lamas. The
ans, an amban who
. Pekin by the Em-
the three khans of
ction, were present

nearly twenty-six
ircn, to more than

personages had en-
joints and adorned
;wo rows before the
igolese was formed,
all was ready, six
ng upon a chair the
d by the khans, the
rhe cortege moved
vas living with his
mile from the tem-
ippeared, conducted
amas, who held him

1 on a horse magnif-
by a khubilgan, or

lama or senior lama,
mas began to sing
instruments. Then
d raised their hands
id slowly toward the
n the newly chosen
lir. Then came the

INSTALLATION OF A UGNQOLESE LAMA.

S63

most aged lama, Xomecii-khan, the C'hitu'Hc amban, all the lamas, the
vang, and the other Congolese of distinction. The peu])l(« Ibllowed on
both sides.

Tho iiiclosure before the temple contained six tents, ornamented on
the top with gilded points from which Iiung rich Htutfs of ditUrent colors.
The cortege stopped at tho entrance ; the lamas litled the khutiikhtii
from his horse with tokens of the most profound reverence, and took
him into the inclosure by the southern gate. After having remained
there half an hour, the most aged lamas led him by the hand into the
tem))le, where his sister and all the dignitaries likewise entered. The
deputy of the dalay-lama, Nomeen-khan, assisted by the persons of his
suite, seated him on the throne, after which the amban annoimced to the
people the emperor's order that tho khiitiikhtii should receive the honors
due to his rank. Then tho whole assemblage j)rostrated themselves
three times upon the ground ; after which they placed on a table before
him several khonkhos, or small silver bells, which the lamas make use of
during the religious ceremonies. Care had been taken to keep back the
bell which the khiitukhtu had used before his regeneration, in order to
see whether he would perceive that it was not among them. The khu-
tiikhlu, after having cast his eyes over the bells, said to the lama who
was next to him : " Why have you not brought mo my own bell ?"
These words being heard, tho khans, tho vangs, the lamas, and all tho
people, cried out: "He is the true head of our religion; Tie is our kliii-
tukhtu !"

On the 23d of June, one hour after - midnight, the amban and the
other nobles returned to the temple, around which tho people were al-
ready assembled. At the third hour (sunrise), the khiitukhtii was con-
ducted thither by the most aged lamas and seated upon his throne. The
amban offered him tho presents of the emperor, which consisted of a
plate of gold, weighing about twenty-eight pounds, in tho middle of
which eight precious stones were set. On the plate wore placed some
khadaks, worth two thousand rubles, and eighty-one pieces of gold and
silver cloth. A note written upon each indicated that the manufacture
had cost six hundred rubles. Finally, the amban presented eighty-one
trays loaded wth sweetmeats, and various other things. While offering
these things he showed the most profound tokens of reverence to the
khutiikhtu, and accompanied them with felicitations in the name of his
sovereign. He concluded by soliciting tho benediction of the khutukhtu,
in the name of the emperor, and addressed him with these words :
" Great pontiff, thou who art incorruptible as gold, and whose splendor
equals the sparkHng of diamonds, protect the empire as t'lou didst in
the tune of my father, and shed thy grace and thy protection over my
reign,"

The khutukhtu accepted the presents of the emperor and gave him
his benediction by placing his hands upon the head of the amban ; after-
ward he gave his blessing to the lamas and the people ; each one, pene-

864

TIMKOVSKI'S JOURNEY TO PEKIN.

trated l)y the consoling idea of receiving it from the deity himself, ad-
vanoed one after the other, and manifested a reverence, fervor, and awe,
which were most exemplary.

In the afternoon four large tents and an infinite number of small ones
were erected a few hundred yards from the temple, inclosing a krge
space for the exercise of wrestling. The large tents were occupied by
the khans and other nobles ; the combatants numbered two hundred and
sixty-eight on each side, and the struggle continued until evening; the
names of the victors were proclaimed, and the vanquished were obliged
to leave the inclosure. In the end there remained but thirty-five vie
tors. The wrestling recommenced on the 27th. The weather was ex-
tremely warm and the combatants were exhausted with fatigue. Then
the khans prayed the lamas to cause it to rain. In half an hour the sky
became overcast, and a few drops of rain fell. The faithful attributed
this to the power of the lamas, although the heat was but little abated
thereby. The wrestling was continued every day until the 3d of July,
when the khans and the other nobles, accompanied by the people, re-
paired with the thirty-five victors to the district of Ourakhoo, on the
banks of the Orkhon, thirty-five miles distant.

On the 5th of July there was a horse-race on the banks of the Or-
khon, which passed over a distance of twelve miles. There were eleven
hundred and ten horses on the course at one time^ of which one hundred
were declared the best. They received distinguished names, and their
masters obtained presents and some privileges. Next day there was at
the same place a race of sixteen hundred and twenty-seven horses, six
years old. The goal was but ten miles distant. The owners of the
hundred which first arrived in like manner received presents. On the
Tth a third race took place between nine hundred and ninety-five horses,
four years old. They had to pass over a space of eight miles. The
owners of the first hundred were likewise rewarded. These three thou-
sand seven hundred and thirty-two horses all belonged to Mongolese of
the tribe of Khalklias. On the same day, after the race, the thirty-five
victors of the wrestling-match divided into two parties and contended
with each other. The seven best among these were conducted back to

the Ourga.

During these contests three hundred archers shot with arrows at a
target one hundred and fifty feet distant. Each one shot four times in
succession ; twenty-five who hit the mark every time, or even three
times only, were declared excellent archers. The victors had a contest
among themselves next morning. On the 8th they erected, near the
dwelling of the khutukhtii, a richly-d- -orated tent, into which he was
conducted by the hand. They then brought in several idols and placed
before hirn, and burned perfumes in silver censers. He was seated on
his throne and the others took their seats around, when tea was served.
After the khutukhtu had tasted it, it was poured out in silver cups to
the rest ; all who had no cups received it in the hollow of the hand.

[N.

Jeity himself, ad-
fervor, and awe,

iber of small ones
inclosing a 'arge
krerc occupied by
two hundred and
ntil evening; the
hed were obliged
it thirty-five vic-
j weather was ex-
th fatigue. Then
f an hour the sky
faithful attributed
but little abated
I the 3d of July,
by the people, re-
Ourakhoo, on the

banks of the Or-
rhere were eleven
trhich one hundred
[ names, and their
, day there was at
y-seven horses, six
'he owners of the
presents. On the
ninety-five horses,
eight miles. The

These three thou-
i to Mongolese of
ace, the thirty-five
ties and contended
conducted back to

t with arrows at a
shot four times in
me, or even three
ctors had a contest
T erected, near the
into which he was
al idols and placed
He was seated on
len tea was served,
t in silver cups to
ollow of the hand.

THE LAMA XOT TO BE SEEN.

866

Each one drank it with intense satisfaction, as holy water, actually re-
ceived from the hands of the khutukhtu. Afterward the seven wrestlers
recommenced their combat, which lasted from ten in the morning until
midnight. A Mongolese, named Bahay Ikaidzjxn (the great solid ele-
phant), of the troop of the vang Tsetden, was the final victor. The
wrestling ended, the khutukhtu was conducted back to his habitation
with the same ceremonies by which he had been taken to the tent ; then
every one retired to his home.

On the 11th of July, at four o'clock in the morning, the khans ami
the other nobles assembled in the dwelling of the khutukhtu and delib-
erated until eveinng upon the names to be given to the victors in archery
and wrestling, names destined to make them known to the nation and
to preserve their glory for posterity. The name of Lion was unani-
mously given to the first wrestler, who already bore that oi great solid
elephant ; the others in like manner received, in order, the names of
courageous animals or birds. The first Avrestler received a gun, a coat
of mail, fifteen oxen and cows, fifteen horses, a hundred sheep, a camel,
a thousand bricks of tea, some pieces of satin, and several skins of foxes
and otters. The others had gifts proportioned to their strength and
agility. Similar prizes were distributed among the archers; the last
Avrestler and the last archer each received two cows and two sheep.
The festival terminated on the 12th of July.

M. Timkovski applied to be presented to the khutukhtu, but was i.i-
forraed through his messengers by the vang that the pontiff was too
much fatigued by the long journey he had just completed, during which
he had given his benediction to more than a hundred thousand of the
faithful. At the same time Timkovski requested that the mission be
furnished with four yourtes, and with wood and water, at each place of
encampment between the Ourga and Khalgan ; but the request was not
granted. When Idam came in afterward he explained that the vang
had neither the power nor the right to order that the mission bo fur-
nished with yourtes, first, because they traveled by a route upon which
there were no fixed stations ; secondly, because his authority as gov-
ernor-general of Khalkha did not extend beyond the territory bordering
on the Russian frontier. Idam assured them, however, that they should
not be in want of yourtes on the route. As to the interview with the
Ghegen-khutukhtu, he swd it was not forbidden to strangers, but they
were aware he was only a child without experience, who knew only his
native tongue; how then would they render their homage to him?
Besides, this divine child, Ukc all the people, was in mourning for the
emperor. Next year, on their return, they might see him ; he was now
occupied in receiving the faithful, and the offerings which they brought.
On the 20th, the travelers of the mission went to see the city, mounted
on Mongolese horses, and accompanied by their friends of the place. They

866

TIMKOVSKI'S JOURNEY TO PEKIN.

first, visited the temple and the habitation of the khiitukhu. The inclosure
Avas so high that it prevented them from seeing the structure of the
buildings. The temples were built in a north and south direction, and
the roofs were painted green ; one of them was surrounded by gilded
palissades. At some distance from the temples was a large wooden edi-
fice, the school in which the lamas learn to read Thibetan, and to play
upon the instruments employed in their religious music. These temples
;ui<l other public edifices arc on a large square. The inhabitants of the
city live in yourtes, some of which are shaded by willow-treea. The
streets arc so narrow that two men on horseback can scarcely pass each
other. On the 24th, the conductors came to them from the yamoun, or
tribunal, with the information that the vang, on consideration that they
had entered the Celestial Empire in virtue of an inviolable treaty, made
under the reigning dynasty, had resolved to let them continue their jour-
ney, and that in case he should receive from Pekin any ordv rn concerning
them, he would make them known to them on their route. This intelli-
gence was received with great joy ; M. Timkovski immediately gave
ordei-s that all preparations should be made for setting out on the
morrow.

From Kiakhta to the Ourga they seemed to be still in the provinces
bordering on the Russian frontier, from the great similarity in the scene-
ry and productions, but as soon as tht yhad passfled the Tola, they found
themselves on a different soil. They here drank a glass of fresh water, the
last that was to moisten their lips in the vast space to be tr.aversed before
reaching the Great Wall of China. They were now in the arid and gloomy
deserts of Mongolia. They left the Tola by a valley ascending between
high mountains, from which they emerged on an elevated position com-
manding the view of an immense plain, covered Avith stones. To the
left, rose the naked rocks which border on the Tola. The Mongolese
believe that one of the caverns of these mountains contains immense
treasures of gold and silver, which the robbers concealed there in former
times ; but that frightful precipices and noxious vapors effectually cut off
all approach. As they advanced, the moimtains became lower and less
diflicult; they no longer saw deep precipices or lofty heights; every
thing indicated the vicinity of the plain of Gobi, the most extensive of
Middle Asia.

In the evening of October 1st, Idam visited them at their tent, and
in the covirso of conversation related some events of the life of Khung-
ming, a famous Chinese general. The kingdom of Chu being invaded by
the enemy, Khung-ming erected a statue of stone, which held a sword
in one hand, and in the other a book with poisoned leaves. The hostUe
general, on arriving at the statue, went to it and began to read the book,
which he found interesting. As he frequently touched his fingers to his
mouth, to moisten them with saliva in order to turn the leaves more
easily, he soon felt the effects of the poison. When he wished to go
away he could not, his coat of mail being attracted by the pedestal, which

SIN.

lu. The inclosurc

c structure of the

uth direction, and

rounded by gilded

large wooden edi-

ibetan, and to play

c. These temples

inhabitants of the

willow-treea. The

scarcely pass each

om the yamoun, or

deration that they

olablo treaty, made

continue their jour-

Y ordi rs concerning

route. This intelli-

immediately gave

ietting out on the

till in the provinces
lilarity in the scone-
he Tola, they found
ss of fresh water, the
be traversed before
the arid and gloomy
• ascending between
ivated position com-
ith stones. To the
a. The Mongolese
) contains immense
aled there in former
)rs effectually cut oflP
;ame lower and less
ofty heights; every
B most extensive of

m at their tent, and
r the life of Khung-
lu being invaded by
which held a sword
leaves. The hostile
an to read the book,
ed his fingers to his
irn the leaves more
en ho wished to go
f the pedestal, which

ANCIENT MONGOLIAN RUINS.

367

was of loadstone. Enraged at his embarrassing situation, lie laid hold of
the sword which the statue held in the other hand, and struck it. This
act was still more disastrous to him ; the blow struck out sparks, which
set fire to some combustible matter in the statue, and the explosion killed
him. His affrighted army was forced to retreat.

On one occasion, Khung-ming was in front of the enemy, from whom
a river separated him. His camp being up the stream, he sent down in
the night, in boats, some straw mannikins of natural size, each of ^^'lli(■h
held a kindled match in his hand. The boats were borne by the curnnt
to the camp of the enemy, who, seeing thom filled with armed soldiers,
made such haste to attack them with arrows, that they soon emi)ti('(l
their quivers. Khung-ming, who had foreseen this, passed the river uiid
gained a complete victory over the troops which no longer expected an
attack.

October 3d, at three o'clock, they reached the station of Boro khujir,
situated among narrow defiles near Mount Darchan. The weather being
fine, M. Timkovski determined to visit this mountain, which is associated,
by the Mongolese, with the memory of Genghis Khan. He set out at
six o'clock, accompanied by monk Israel and a Cossack officer. On leav-
ing the station, they followed with much difficulty some ravines formed
by the rains, and then passed over immense beds of granite blocks to the
summit. This mountain extends from north to south, and its lofty back
is composed of steep rocks of red fjranite, among which grow the altagan
(robinia pygmaa) and other shrubs. Upon its southern height, to the
foot of which they had ascended, stood an abo of stones, built by the
Mongolese, who repair thither every summer to celebrate the memory
of" Genghis Khan. From this point the view was very extensive ; to
the eastward were eight salt lakes, and beyond them rose the blue
mountains of Kherrulun ; on the west, was an immense extent of coun-
try, covered with pointed elevations.

On the afternoon of the 1 0th, M. Timkovski visited some ruins of
ancient Mongolian architecture, near the station of Tsulghetoo, where
they had encamped for the night. Having gone two miles across a
plain opening to the east they reached a mountain whose declivity, for
the space of a mile and a half, was covered with the ruins of stone
edifices. Idam informed them that three hundred years ago or more, a
Mongolese Taidzi, or descendant of princes, named Sainkhung (beautiful
swan), inhabited these places. These remains had been his temples.
Several altars and other edifices of colossal dimensions, indicated the
wealth and magnificence of that prince. These crumbling structures
■were covered with moss and weeds ; the foundations were granite, the
walls of sun-dried bricks, cemented with cl:iy mixed with gravel, instead
of lime. The changes of heat and moisture had worn away the clay
while the gravel remained. One building, of a circular form, was or-
namented with a stone cornice, composed of three rows. In a large
temple, and in other edifices were vaulted niches, probably destined for

868

TIMKOVSKTS JOURNEY TO PBKIN.

tho reception of oflFerings. lu the court, which was paved with stone,
hey Lw broken tUc« ol" a green color, and a stony^t. These rums
once inhabited by some descendant of Genghis Khan, now served
as -i retreat for herds of cattle ; the subjugated Mongolese rare y visit
these places, which remind them of their ancient splendor and .nde-

pendence.^ 15th of October they encamped at Soume, that is to say, the
Temple on the Mountain of Serpents. To the left of the station was a
temple upon the declivity of the Abourga (Serpent). It is said that
these reptiles were formerly found there, but they saw none. They
"ted the temple which, according to the rules of Thibetan architect-
ure fronted the south. The nephew of Idam, who was our guide, sent
for the warden, who conducted them by the principal entrance into the
•Libule, wher'e they saw four wooden idols of colossal s.e. Two were
covered with armor, like warriors; the first was red, and held m his
hands a twisted serpent ; the second was white, haymg in - "gh^ h«nd
a parasol, which in China distinguishes rank, and m tho left » ™f "«« '
the third had a blue face, and held in his hand a sword; the foiirth
which wa-s yellow, played upon the lute. These were Tcngrees or Ma-
haransa khans, who live two thousand and five hundred years. They
a^e seven hundred and eighty feet in height; they watch over the
Winess of men upon the earth, and dwell in four different regions of
Mount Soume, which is the center of the universe and the abode of
tutelary divinities. This mountain has seven gilded summits and ex-
tends seventy thousand miles toward each of the four quarters of the

""""'on the 19th they reached Erglu, the last station of the country of
Khalkha Toward evening Idam came to give notice of his departure
for the Ourga. They experienced a deep regret at partmg w-ith a man
who by his zeal in their behalf had acquired a claim upon their grati-
tude Before their departure on the 2l8t, the bitkheshi begged M. Tim-
kovski to prevent his people from shooting the crows, as they had done
on their arrival at Erghi, pretending that the storm of the preceding
day had been caused by this slaughter. In order to satisfy this old
man they promised to kill no more, although these l>"d8 ^ej^^ ^jy an-
noying to the camels, for when they saw from a distance the blood that
came from the wounds caused to these animals by the rubbmg of their
burdens, they straightway descended upon their backs The wind «tiU
continued to blow'so hard that they could not -m- on hor^^^^^^^
On approaching Mount Argali they saw on the heights a troj o* g»-
.elles.''The ascent was through deep ravines, amid bo d ™o«.tain;cei.
ery, but when they had attained the heights they saw the «t W «P;«f^
out before them as fiir as the eye could reach. The places which were
more than twenty miles distant presented a blue W^^"^^'/?^ 'j;!:
the plain bore some resemblance to an agitated sea. They had betore
them the ascent to the highest plateau of middle Asia, which properly

:iN.

paved with stone,
vat. These ruins,
[han, now served
ijTolcse rarely visit
plendor and Inde-

, that is to say, the
' the station was a
t). It is said that

saw none. They
Thibetan architect-
ivas our guide, sent
I entrance into the
sal size. Two were
ed, and held in his
ig in his right hand

the left a incuse ;
, sword ; the fourth
e Tengrees or Ma-
ndrcd years. They
ey watch over the
different regions of

and the abode of
id summits and ex-
four quarters of the

n of the country of
tice of his departure
parting with a man
iim upon their grati-
sshi begged M. Tim-
rs, as they had done
rm of the preceding
r to satisfy this old
3 birds were very an-
itance the blood that
the rubbing of their
acks. The wind still
•emain on horseback,
leightsatroopofga-
[ bold mounttdn scen-
aw the steppe spread
he places which were
! appearance, so that
sa. They had before
Asia, which properly

iHmSsi'lt,

^-■:?-.-ff*-J^^::s^'^

THE DESERT OP GOBI.

869

bears the name of Gobi. The rainy summer of this year had caused a
little herbage to grow upon this steppe, usually naked and sterile ; but
in a time of drouth, it is truly the country of affliction ; the cattle die of
hunger and thirst.

On the 2'7th M. Tirakovski visited Mount Bathkai, near the stution
of that name. From its summit, as from that of Darkhan, woihs seen
on all sides vast plains upon which numerous herds Avere pasturing ; in
some places they saw black yourtes, like islands on an inuuL'iiso liikc.
In looking over these deserts it is difficult to believe that the iiihiibitaiit
of the Gobi enjoys a tolerable e.-stence; he is deprived of wood, and
has not the things most necessary to the aimplest wants of life. At tho
beginning of summer he prays heaven to grant him rain, which rarely
waters the steppes. During that season the drouth destroys his cattle,
his only resource. The same misfortune threatens him in winter ; enow
and frost cover the earth and deprive his animals of the only herbage
which can furnish them tho means of subsistence. The Mongolese in-
formed them that five years before, the whole steppe of Gobi was af-
flicted with a mortality among the cattle so great that many pro-
prietors saved but twenty-five horses out of five hundred, and four
oxen out of two hundred. The inhabitants had not yet recovered this
unusual loss.

This unpleasant passage continued for seven stations, or one hundred
miles ; until reaching the dwellings of the Tsakhar Mongolese, they saw
on all sides nothing but a sea of sand and pebbles. Such is the steppe
of Gobi; like the African desert of Sahara. The road passed over on
the 1st of November was tho most fatiguing of the whole journey. The
country was mountainous ; the surface, formed of mingled sand and clay,
was almost impassable on account of the rain ; the mountains were cov-
ered with snow ; the horses and camels were so fatigued by the violence
of the wind, by the cold, the long stages, the bad food and briny water,
during the eleven days' passage across the territory of the Sunites, that
six of the camels sunk beneath their loads, and six draught-horses were
entirely worn out. The cold still increased ; the mercury sank to zero
on the morning of the 3d, and on the 4th it was two degrees below.
They crossed a sandy mountain this day, over which the roed was un-
even and toilsome. They frequently saw yourtes by the way, and a
great many cattle ; they also met largo caravans, loaded with tea, on
their way to Kiakhta.

One day they were much surprised to find lying in the road, in a
leather sack, the body of an infant one year old. Upon the sack was a
small piece of sheepskin, a little millet, and a small loaf of bread. This
was an ordinary mode of burying the dead among the Mongolese. The
priests of Buddha, to subjugate the minds of their followers, have repre-
sented death under a frightful image. The dying devotee sends for a
lama, to secure the welfare of his body and the salvation of his soul ; the
priest, after making inquiries respecting the day and the hour of the pa-

870

TIMKOVSKI'S JOURNEY TO PEKIN,

tient'8 birth, the accompanying circumstances, and all the events of his
life, pronounces, according to the sacred books and the laws of astrology,
whether the body shall be burned or cast into the water ; whether it
shall be exposed in a kind of cage, or covered with stones, etc. There
are some exceptions : for instance, they do not bury a man who has
been hung ; whoever dies in consequence of tumors, can not be burned ;
they do not cast into the water those who have been drowned in an in-
undation, or struck by lightning, or devoured by the flames ; they do
not bury upon a mountain any one who has died of a contagious dis-
ease ; in a word, one can not without a reason, throw wood into the fire,
fire and earth into water, carry wood upon a mountain or into a forest.
Such are the laws of the Buddhists. The most usual manner of disposing
of the dead is to transport them into a steppe, and there leave them,
abandoned to wild beasts and birds of prey. But even in this case the
lama decides which quarter of the world the head must be turned
toward ; a weather-vane is planted in the ground, and the direction given
to it by the wind determines that in which the deceased shall be placed.
For the rest, every thing depends wholly upon the lama, who prescribes
in like manner how the corpse must be buried, whether it shall be
clothed or left naked, placed in the open air or in an old tent, and deter-
mines which of his effects or what objects should be added as offermgs.

In the night of November 13th two of their horses perished with

cold and fatigue. On the summits of the chain of Khinkhan-dabagan

mountains, in the south, they could distinguish towers; these were on

the frontier between China and Mongolia, which they now perceived for

the first time, and with extreme satisfaction. At ten o'clock they

reached a small, half-ruined fortification, called Tsagan-balgassoo, or

white-walled city, where they rejoiced in having happily passed over the

steppes, with their snows and sands and impetuous, icy winds. Here

they made inspection of their horses, camels, and oxen, a part of which

were to be left until March, in the foUowing year. On the mornmg of

the 16th they entered a deep valley among the Khuikhan mountains,

and passed a fort on a smaU elevation. The animals went on with great

difficulty; the cold became so intense that it was impossible to keep

warm, even by walking. StUl they had fifteen miles to go before reach-

in.r a station. Their embarrassment increased when a few miles further

they were obliged to cross over mountains where their animals slipped

and fell at every step on the ice, or plunged into deep snows. At this

place they passed a post of Mongolese sentinels, in several yourtes.

They began to see indications of the vicinity of a commercial city; they

continually met caravans, chariots, and riders mounted on camels and

horses. Soon afterward they reached the chain of mountains which

separates Mongolia from China. On tl> .r summits extends a stone

rampart, with square brick towers at equal distances from each other.

From this point China appears in colossal forms. Southward, east-
ward, and westwai-d, nothing was seen but snow-covered mountains,

1 Hifii*! «*<£*{ ***

IN.

I the events of his
laws of astrology,
water ; whether it
tones, etc. There
f a man who haa
an not be burned ;
drowned in an in-
e flames ; they do
a contagious dis-
wood into the fire,
lin or into a forest,
lanncr of disposing
I there leave them,
ren in this case the
i must be turned
the direction given
ed shall be placed,
na, who prescribes
hether it shall be
)ld tent, and deter-
idded as offerings.
)rses perished with
Khiukhan-dabagan
ers ; these were on
• now perceived for
ten o'clock they
sagan-balgassoo, or
>ily passed over the
1, icy winds. Here
en, a part of which
On the morning of
iuikh.an mountains,
went on with great
impossible to keep
to go before reach-
a few miles further
licir animals slipped
3ep snows. At this
in several yourtes.
nmercial city ; they
ted on camels and
if mountdns which
ts extends a stone
from etich other.
. Southward, east-
L'overed mountains,

ARRIVAL AT KHALGAK.

871

whose pointed summits reached the clouds. The descent for three miles
to the Chinese village of Nor-tian, is by a narrow road which was very
dangerous at that season ; beyond that village the traveler sees high
mountains whose threatening summits give a wild character to the dis-
trict. Such is the aspect of the country at the place where they de-
scended from the high steppes of Mongolia to the lower heights of
China. They halted at the first Chinese village ; it was with pleasure
they entered a house, having seen nothing since leaving the Ourga, a
journey of more than seven hundred miles, that reminded them of the
customs of sedentary life.

It is about fifteen miles from the first Chinese village to Chang-kia-
kheou, or Khalgan. The road is at first narrow and intersected with
hills, which are rather steep. The boldness and indefatigable activity
of the Chinese laborers attracted the attention of the travelers; the sum-
mits of the highest mountains were covered with cultivated fields, and
the naked and inaccessible rocks seemed to have been rendered fertile.
There were villages and temples on the declivities of the mountains,
and several cabins were built against the rocks like birds' nests.

They first saw Khalgan when they arrived at the Great Wall, which
is built of bricks between two steep rocks, and is now half-ruined.

At Khalgan, as at the Maimatchin of Kiakhta and the Ourga, it was
the custom to fire a cannon at six in/the morning and nine in the even-
ing ; at the former report every inhabitant is allowed to leave his home,
and even, if necessary, to go and see the city authorities, but at the
latter this right ceases, except in extraordinary cases. A river divides
the city into two parts, the upper and lower town ; the former is on the
Mongolian frontier, and has its gates in the great •wall, which extends
across the mountains. Khalgan is not large, and has no remarkable
edifices, but is very populous. The inhabitants appeared to have a great
curiosity to see the strangers : all day they besieged the doors of their
house, and the neighboring roofs were covered with spectators.

On the route from Khalgan to Pekin they gained a good idea of the
people of China and their industrious habits. At every step they met
people transporting cut straw on mules and asses. Sentinels are placed
at regular intervals in a kind of watch-houses which rise like towers,
near five small conical columns upon which the distances are marked.
Tlie exterior of the watch-towers is embellished with paintings, repre-
senting horses, guns, bows and quivers of arrows. These watch-towers
serve likewise as telegraphs : if the northern frontier of China is threat-
ened the news is immediately transmitted to Pekin, and the army is at
once marched against the enemy. The route led southward, along the
banks of the Yang-ho, a shallow river with a very rapid current which,
except at the rapids, was now bound in with ice. A portion of the way
passes through rugged rocks, which often rise abruptly from the river,
whose waters leap tumultuously down the precipice below, while other
rocks from the opposite side threaten to crush the traveler. Beyond the

872

TIMKOVSKI'S JOURNEY TO PEKIN.

river rises the Whang-yang-chang, a granite mountain whose pomted
peaks are lost among the clouds. The wild and majestic aspect ot this ,
region is most impressive to the traveler who has just left the dry and .

desolate steppes. !

After passing the town of Yu-lin-fu on the 28th, the ground was .ov- ,

ered with stones and no cultivated fields were seen. They arrived .
at the foot of high mountains, where they saw a number oi ruined

tombs On the summit of the mountains, which rose nearly to the i

clouds, the great wall appeared. This grand monument, unique m its ^

kbd, produces an imposing effect, when we consider that it has existed ;

for several centuries, and that it extends to a great distance over mac- ,

cessible mountains. ^ -nr n u; i, *i,„„ '■

Two nules from Chah-tao they came to the Great WaU, which they
insoected After passing an arched entrance in the principal tower, they
entered a large court, from which they ascended by steps to the top of |
the Wall. Notwithstanding the centuries which have passed since this |
structure has been in existence, it is built with such skiU and care, tha ,
instead of falling in ruins, it is like a stone rampart raised by the hand
oftature to prolct the northern provinces of China frorn the invasions
of the Mongds, who have not yet wholly lost their warlike character ,
The Great WaU is composed of two parallel walls with embattled tops,
and the interval is filled with earth and gravel. The foundations con- !
Stoflarge rough stones; the restofthewallisof bricks It is twenty- |
x feet Wgh and fourteen wide. The towers, in which there are sev^al |
brass guns, are about one hundred paces apart. The great tower is M-
Tngt^decay ; the entrance is much damaged, as weU as the adjoimng
wall There is no longer any thought of repairmg it. To give a just
Tdea of this immense structure, it may not be amiss to refer to a calcu^
tion of Mr. Barrow, who visited China with Lord Macartney m 1793 and
1794 He reckons the number of houses m England and Scotland to be
eighteen hundred thousand. Estimating the mason-work of each at two
thousand cubic feet, he supposes that they do not contain as m«ch jn^*;-
rial as the Great WaU of China, which he says woiUd be sufficient to
construct a waU that would reach twice around the earth.

They descended from the mountains on the 30th, and entered the
weU-cultivated plains of Pe-chee-le, over which they proceeded toward
The capital. After passing the suburban city of Chi^ho. the opulence in-
dicaling the approach to a large city, began to appear. For sevend
S before reLing the market-town, Tsing-ho they passed ple^t
country-houses, and the cemeteries of persons of distmction m Pekm.
STse we characterized by elegant simplicity rather than grand luxury ;
evei^^rhere they saw the white trunks of cypresses, thick groves of aged
ST a^d of junipers, which attain the height of the taUest pine .
^^LX the' way, fifty Mongolese camels, which were carrymg b«^
ter I the Imperial Court ; the foremost camek were ornamented with
gmaU strips of yeUow cloth fiiatened to sticks, bke flags.

Mftiii'iyiiUM, nn

whose pointed
ic aspect of this
loft the dry and

ground was cov-

They arrived j

imber of ruined '

le nearly to the j

at, unique in its i

lat it has existed j
[Stance over inac-

WnM, which they j
icipal tower, they ;
eps to the top of |
passed since this !
ill and care, that
lised by the hand '
rom the invasions |
rarlike character. \
I embattled tops, 1
foundations con- '
iks. It is twenty- I

I there are several
Treat tower is fall-

II as the adjoining
;. To give a just
refer to a calcula-
artnoyin 1793 and
md Scotland to be
ork of each at two
lain as much mate-
uld be sufficient to
irth.

h, and entered the
proceeded toward
10, the opulence in-
pear. For several
»ey passed pleasant
stinction in Pekin.
than grand luxury ;
bick groves of aged
f the tallest pines,
were carrying but-
•e ornamented with

gS. .,-...,:..-..--

ENTRANOB INTO PEKIN.

878

At nine o'clock next day, they set out from T»ing-ho for Pckin. For
nearly four miles they followed an avenue of ancient willows, passing vil-
lages and cemeteries on the right hand and left. Thoy soon reached the
suburbs of Pokin. Two students of the old mission came to meet them,
with four Chinese calashes for the new members, and a saddled horse for
M. Timkovski. In the suburbs the noise, the tumult, and the crowd, an-
nounced the vicinity of the most populous city of the globe. They soon
came out on a large plain, and the walls of Pckin in their full extent lay
spread out before them. " Finally, the immense distance between St.
Petersburg and the capital of China was passed over. At once forget-
ting all our fatigues," observes Timkovski, " we, inhabitants of the shores
of the gulf of Finland, fancied ourselves transported in an instant, by
some supernatural power, to this city which had so long been the object
of the dreams of our imagination, and the aim of our desires. With a
sentiment of joy each one of us cast his eyes upon the embrasur'^d walls,
whose origin is enveloped in the thick shadows of antiquity."

Northward of the plain, they saw the red walls of a temple of Fohi,
and at a short distance observed the funeral of a rich Chinese. Two
miles from the entrance to this plain they passed the Russian cemetery,
where the members of their mission, who die in Pekin, are interred. A
little further on, the mission entered with ceremony by the gate Ngang-
ting-mcng into the capital of China. A crowd of gazers surrounded
them. They followed the broad street leading from the gate for a mile
and a half, then proceeded by a cross-street to the street Ta-fo-szu, which
they traversed in a southern direction two miles to a triumphal arch of
wood ; thence to the right, along the street Chang-ngang, they passed the
temple of Manchoo worship on the left, and the tribunal of foreign affairs
on the right. They then crossed the canal, or small river, Yu-ho, on a
marble bridge called Pe-khiao, passed the Imperial Palace on the right,
went southward along the canal for nearly a mile, then crossed the bridge
Chung Yu-ho-khias, turned up the street Tung-kiang-me-kiang, and, at
noon, finally entered the Russian court, where they were received by
several members of the old mission.

After their arrival, M. Tlmkovski's health was impaired, partly from
the dampness of the house of the embassy, and the exhalations of the
coal bunied in the apartments ; the abbot therefore gave him a room in
the convent, which he occupied during the cold weather. The chambers
of the convent were heated from beneath the floor ; the occupants lived
very warm, but the continual heat injured the feet.

All the dwellings of Pekin, from the cabin of the artisan to the palace
of the rich man, are of one story, and built of bricks ; the court is sur-
rounded by a high stone wall, so that from the street one can see noth-
ing but the roofs. The shops, however, have large paper windows, which
occupy nearly the whole front. In most of the houses, in all the shops,
and even in the palace of the emperor, remarkable sentences from the
philosophers or the celebrated poets are written upon the tapestry of the

874

TIMKOVSKI'S JOURNEY TO PEKIN.

wiiiilowH, as well an upon paper of variolic colors. Among the rich tlio
partitions anil doors aro of precious wood, :w cainplior, cypress, etc.,
and adorned witli sculptures. Uesidc the agre(!al)le impression which
they make upon the sight, they diffuse a pleasant o(h)r through the apart-
ments. All the roofe are of tiles, green, red, or yellow, which ar-j ar-
ranged, like every thing in this country, by fixed rules. Tlius the imperial
edifices and the temples can alone be covered with yellow tiles ; green is for
the [talnces of personages of high rank ; gray tiles are used for other houses.
The Munchoo language is not difficult to learn. Like other Asiatic
languages it has its alphabet and grammar ; the former resembles the
Mongolese ; the proniniciation is much more sonorous. The Manchooa,
atUr the conquest of China in 1644, were obliged to complete their
language, hitherto poor, as that of a nomadic people, and to perfect it
accorduig to the rules of Chinese literature. After two hundred years
of sojourn among a numerous and partially civilized people, the Man-
choos have become accustomed to their manners and customs, and their
language ; so that, at present, all classes of them speak Chinese. Even
hi Pekin there are but few people who understand the Manchoo lan-
guage ; it is employed only m the affairs of state.

On the 3d of January, 1821, the travelers visited the shops of the
merchants, situated mostly in the suburb called Vai-le-ching. At the
commencement of the street Leoo-le-chang, which is very short and
very filthy, there are several book-stores, which sell Chinese and Man-
choo books, all bound and well arranged ; but on examining them we
soon find that many of them aro very defective. The Chinese book-
sellers have a habit of asking five tunes as much as the books are worth ;
they endeavor to sell copies in which leaves are missing, or books which
are composed of the leaves of three or four different works. One must
be wide awake if he would not be cheated by the rascality of the Chinese
booksellers ; and in fact this distrust is equally necessary in the purchase
of other goods. The best books, and principally the historical books, are
issued from the imperial press, where the booksellers of Pekin and other
cities buy them at a price fixed by government. This press also pub-
lishes every other day a gazette containing the extraordinary events
which happen in the empire, the ordinances, and especially the list of
promotions, the favors granted by the emperor, such as yellow robes
and peacock feathers (equivalent to the orders of knighthood, etc., in
Europe), the punishment of delinquent mandarins, etc.

Further on, in the same street, are jeweler's shops, where pictures and
objects carved out of jasper, ivory, and precious woods, for the decora-
tion of apartments, are sold. The work is well finished. They have
also glassware, glazed porcelain, etc., all of the best quality. In like
manner one meets with a quantity of articles from the imperial palace,
which the eunuchs have the dexterity to carry off, and sell at a mean
price to the merchants ; they Ukewise saw English goods, which came
by way of Canton.

IN.

niong the rich tho
lior, cypress, etc.,
iiiipro8i<ioa which
Lhrougli the upart-
luw, which ar'j ar-
Thii8 the imperial
V tiles ; green is for
d for other houses.
Like other Asiatic
ner resembU'S tho
. The Manclioos,
to complete their
!, and to perfect it
wo hundred ycara
[ people, the Man-
customs, and their
ik Chinese. Even
the Manchoo lan>

the shops of the
,-le-ching. At the
is very short and
Chinese and Man-
xamining them we
rhe Chinese book-
i books are worth ;
ig, or books which
works. One must
ility of the Chinese
»ry iu the purchase
istorical books, are
of Pekin and other
bis press also pub-
traordinary events
ipecially the list of
;h as yellow robes
mighthood, etc., in

where pictures and
jds, for the dccora-
lished. They have
t quality. In like
he imperial palace,
and sell at a mean
goods, which came

TUB IMPERIAL ARMY OF CHINA.

875

Near each of the city gates donkeys are kej)! saddled for public serv-
ice. The Chinese mount tliese niiiiiials in order to go from one gate to
another; light burdtais are also transporteil upon them. In winter they
also pass upon tho canal, which is covered with ice. Several ptTHonn
take places on a kind of sleigh, made of boards, and drawn by a man.
It is said that even in summer one can pass from Pekin to the southern
provinces in small chariots drawn by men. Tho vaults near tht; city
walls are inhabited by the poor. It is impossible to form an idea of tin?
miserable and disgusting aspect of these unfortunate beings : almost
naked, or covered with matted rags, they drag themselves about among
the sliops of tho commercial quarter to beg alms ; after having received
a faw chokhi they return to conceal themselves in their caves.

The Chinese army is composed of four divisions corresponding to tho
nations which the empire contains. Tho division composed of Manclioos,
numbering nearly sixty-eight thousand men, occupies tho first rank.
The second division embraces the Mongoloso, who entered China with
the Manchoos at tho epoch of the conquest ; it numbers twenty-one
thousand. Tho third division is composed of the Chinese who joined tho
Jllanchoos toward the close of tho last Chinese dynasty, and numbers
twenty-seven thousand. To this division belongs tho artillery of tho
company, consisting of four hundred cannon. These three bodies, num-
bering over one hundred thousand men, form the Manchoo army, projv
erly speaking, the principal part of which is cavalry. Tho fourth division
is composed of other Chinese, recruited annually ; it occupies tho garri-
sons of the interior, and comprises about five hundred thousand men.
There are besides nearly twenty-five thousand men of irregular troops,
or militia ; making a total of six hundred and twenty-five thousand men,
of whom nearly one hundred and seventy-five thousand are cavalry.
The Chinese soldiers are all married. Their sons are, at their birth, en-
rolled on tho army list ; when they are of age they fill the vacant places
in the companies.

One day a soldier of the corps of Ojen-chokha, of Pekin, called on
the chief of the new mission. He was about forty years of age, the son
of a poor soldier, and brought up at the convent of French Jesuits in the
city. The latter, who destined him to the station of a Roman Catholic
preacher, in the interior provinces of China, wished to send him to
Europe to complete his studies, as had been done with his uncle, who
had become a distinguished priest among his fellow-countrymen. But
during the last persecution of the Jesuits ho renounced his calling as
priest, believing it his duty to return to his regiment. Besides Chinese,
he spoke and wrote Latin and French well, and was otherwise well edu-
cated. It was singular to hear a Chinese, clothed and armed in tho
stylo of the country, speaking French with fluency. The students of the
new mission employed him as private tutor in Chinese, because he spoke
Latin well. M. Timkovski presents to his readers a long letter in Latin,
written by this soldier to the abbot, in which he transcribes some Chi-

876

TIMKOVSKI'S JOURNKY TO PBKIN.

„c«c rules of hygiene, containing .lirtntionH for proHcrving and prolong-

'"'''on' the lUh of January they vinited tho ten,plos of \Vhang.s/.u.
Tlu.v fuHt pavso.l the tomplo of the Earth, h. a large n.elosure m. -
r. ..led l,y high wall., where the o„.peror repairs at the Kunune o -
"" o Jo tlu«.k« to the Supreme Being, and to pray lor a good har-
t Tlu.n they came to the grand central temple, near winch were a
number of convent^ or residences of tho priestn, and nmny smaller
nS . I" the vichity of the temples stands an obelisk of wh. o mar-
ir' vl ich, from the sc.dptures on its sides, drawn from the Instory of
ud ha or Fold, appears to have been raised in honor of that prophet,
clctrincs 'ari 'followed in Thibet, China, Mongolia, and by the
i rhtes and the Calmucks. It is an octagonal tower, nnu^y-four feet
i^ The top is slender, and is su^„^ounted by a largo c^p of massive
3 which resembles the hat of tho dalui-lama. On the four sules arc
tllptu ed marble columns. Tho obelisk is a beautiful work and cost a
a g um ''f n.oney. Near it is a snmll chateau -hero the emperor
rests when ho goes to bear his olTeru.gs to the temple of the Earth.

In tJicnght preceding January 22d, the dull sound of kettle-drums
in the empfcB announced tho new year of the Chinese, which begms
witl thHewmoon. In the temple in tho Russian court torches ot
r^o ilrou" wW were kh.dlod, and a lama recited prayers, b-tmg the
"vhiron a copper vessel. Toward midnight the prmcos of the blood
LTthe mostltinguished personages --j'^f^ -/^^^^^^rwhe^^
sunrise thev followed the emperor to tho temple of his ancestors, w nere
Te performed his devotions according to the prescrn>ed ntual, then re
tLed to the palace to receive the felicitations of the grandees of the
emile, and 1 members of tho tribunals of Pekin On the occasion
oHlie new year the tribunals throughout China are closed for a month,
and the great seal of the empire is locked up during the fme

Tho festival of the new year continues till tho ™»ddle of the first
month During this time a bell of extraordinary size is exhibited ; rt is m
Holn^of th!. ^<.cIu^ngs, or priests of Fohi, two -"- -f^'^; ^^^^^^
Curious to see all that is permitted to a stranger m ^^^Z^;^"^;^ /^^^^^^^^^^^
M Timkovski, with several of his countrymen, repaired to the convent
on the 5th of February. A great number of men and women assomble
In^ during the fesffval. The inquisitive crowd pressed around the
sXors on all sides; happily the soldiers <>f ^ .J^.^^^Tvllltthe
whiDS opened the way. Passing a two^tory bmldmg containing the
; aJr^LTof the mo'nks, they fame to the belfry, '^J^^^Xl^^;,
bell so renowned in China. It is of copper and quite Slackened by tm^^^^
its height is thirteen feet, its form conical It •«/«^«"^^/'^^,^^"^^7,
characlers and weighs about a hundred thousand P"""^^-. J'' c accent
toTtt by a rude, dark stairway. Near the top is a small orifice through
wWch the d" ot'ees throw copper coins; he who B-ceeds m passing
Uiem through this hole, finds a happy presage in the circumstance. The

iig and prolong-

of \VlmnK-H/.»i.
I! indosiiro Hur-
,ho miinincr hoI-

Ibr a p)Ocl liur-

ar which were a
nmiiy smaller
sk of whito raar-
II the history of

of that prophet,
rolia, and l)y the
ninety-four feet
TO cap of massive
he four sides arc
work and cost a
lero the emperor
B of the Earth,
il of kettle-drums
;se, which begins
court torches of
lyers, beating the
inces of the blood

the palace. At
s ancestors, where
led ritual, then re-
e grandees of the
On the occasion
losed for a month,
he time.

niddle of the first
J exhibited ; it is in
les south of Pekin.
lis distant country,
red to the convent
id women assemble
messed aroimd the
ilicc, by the aid of
ing containing the
in which hangs the
blackened by time ;
irered with Chinese
ounds. The ascent
nail orifice through
lucceeds in passing
circumstance. The

VISIT TO TIIR PORTU'JUESK MISSION.

877

pieces fiill on the floor beneath the bell, and duritig the festival amount
to a considerable sum.

They returned by the imperial court of elephants, which a hundred
pieces of coj)pcr, applied to the sentinels, enabled them to sec. Tlie
court is very large, and contains a temple, a weli, four large buildings
for the elephants, and several houses itdiabited by the employees of
the cstablisliinent. The elephants arc employed in transporting the ves-
sels with which the emperor performs the sacrifices. Tht.'se vessels ;iio
placed on very large litters, made for the purpose.. Four elephants are
also taken duily to the court. Ono of them, in obedience to the voice
of his leader, strikes with his trunk upon the floor as many times as he
is ordered, another makes a rumbling like the muflled sounds of a drum
and utters piercing cries. The greater part of these animals are aged
and infirm ; many are so gentle that they walk peaceably about the
court. The elephants of Pekin are usually brought, at a great e.xj)en8e,
from the liirman empire.

On the I'ith of February, the abbots Hyacinth and Peter, accom-
panied by M. Timkovski and a party of Cossacks, proceeded on horse-
back to visit the Portuguese missionaries, of the convent of the south.
Father Uibeira, the superior of the convent, entertained them kindly,
and showerl them the chapel and other apartments. They had just en-
tered the hall of reception when an ofticer of the Manchoo police rushed
in vvith a terrible outcry; without waiting for an invitation from the
superior he sat down, and addressing the bishop reproached him bitterly
for having received visits, although ho well knew the access to the con-
vent was forbidden to strangers. The bishop having replied that this
did not concern him, the officer, who was much excited, blamed the su-
perior for having exposed him to the danger of losing his place, for
the populace, in their curiosity to see the Russians, had assembled before
the coii\ent ; the crowd had become so great that it was impossible to
pass along the street, and disagreeable consequences might result if one
of the attorneys-general should be uiformcd cf it. Ribeira, mortified
at being treated thus in the presence of his guests, after having invited
them, in a manner, to show the inhabitants of Pekin how the Portu-
guese are esteemed by tho other Europeans, attempted to calm the
oflicer, but without success. The Manchoo seized a P'-'^.- --^iscan monk
and led him off" to the police to answer for the disorler v i>,(!h th" visit
of the Russians had caused. Seeing the audacious effrontery of the
Manchoo, and the low credit of the Catholics in China, the visitors rose
and asked leave to retire and return at a more favorable moment;
but the bishop begged them to remain, saying that the Manchoo was
drunk, and that such vexations on tho part of the Chinese happened fre-
quently.

The 2l8t of March was the first day of the third moon, in the Chi-
nese calendar ; the weather was very bad. Spring, in Pokin, is usually
accompanied by impetuous winds. The winter which had just closed,

■UMk.

<■%</

373 ' TIMKOTSKI'S J>URNET TO PEKIN.

0„ tho 23J, a great coxcomo "/jf'f " "J" The pri«t. carried

Tsi rs jLf a::"a r;a ;:sLf wfore l. reeu-,„g
a.°r:;:r'r^eY:rr--^

fixed it, at the latest, on the fr^^y^^^f^^/i^^^^^^^^^^ of baggage and the
of May). The petition was taken by th^^^^^^^ j, ^,,

interpreter, -<:-J'^"^^^. ^^^.^^^ T^^ tribunal, who promised a
graciously received by the n^^™"^" /^ ^^ ^.j the permission was
prompt and favorable decision, ^ft^r «ome ^ y p^ations for
iccorded, and the mission Proceeded at o"«« *° ^nd on the 14th of
their departure. These were ^* ^^"f ^^Slrrangements for setting

Chinese Empire.

ThedimateofPeUin,asdes^^^Timl«^ !

that of America in the same Mitvide. ^^^^^ ^^.,^^^^ ,

strangers. Epidemic dise^^---^ !

are unknown ; every year the ^^ters are .^^ _ ^^^ ^j^^

die of December until M-'-^VrnTe hermometer ranges from ten to

cold is never very severe^ ^^^^^/oL suffers less than at St. Peters- !

five degrees above zero, ^^^l^'X^'-X season of squally winds ;

burg with the same '^^^^^^^iJ^^eiy in the months of June and !
the heats of summer are oPP'^^rT*;' ^ .Z„aant rains, which moisten
July ; these l^eats are accom^^^^^^^^ ''^^:^TL wat^s, in sweeping
t;rtr CllSs:i.r. W« - connrnt ^^r^

serene, and the weather calm ^^j^^ King-ching, of

Pekin is divided by a high wall ^"^^ ^^^^f ^^^^^^^^ The entire cir-
Inipevial City, and V^-lo-ching, or ^uthem subu ^ ^^^ ^^^^ ^^
, cnmference is about fifteen miles. ^«J^' ^^^^^ „e about five and

are forty feet l^ig\ -f '^^^^J^^,^^'^:^^^^^^ feet, and they are

a half feet. The tlnckness of th^ ^aU^^s J^ There are sixteen

1 ^^^estreetsa.long,.*a^-^,tl^n^^

LIN.

Id for the climate.
L in the temple to
:he priests carried
ore them, reciting

tribunal of foreign

Pekin. They had

fourth moon (15th

of baggage and the

Cossacks. It was

al, who promised a

the permission was

ke preparations for

and on the 14th of

igements for setting

in the capital of the

ikovski, is similar to
I salubrious, even for
ages of the pestilence
ith ice, from the mid-
rter period ; but the
er ranges from ten to
83 than at St. Peters-
ason of squally winds;
3 months of June and
, rains, which moisten
le waters, in sweeping
iommit great ravages,
ially in the months of
air is mUd, the sky

I, called King-ching, or
mrbs. The entire cir-
lich are built of bricks,
lich are about five and
r-one feet, and they are
m. There are sixteen
seven to the Chinese

Y are not paved, but the
e hundred and twenty-
dai, or Great Street of

TEMPLE ON A MOUNTAIN.

879

Tranquillity, is full one hundred and eighty feet in width. It is the
most beautiful street of Pekin ; it runs from east to west, and is bor-
dered on the north, in part, by the walls of the imperial palace, m the
south by several palaces and tribunals. The houses of the city are very
low, often containing only the ground floor ; they are of bricks and cov-
ered with gray tiles. The tribunals and the palaces of the princes are
elevated on a base, and have beautiful entrances; the palaces are
covered with green-glazed tiles. The most beautiful edifices of Pekin
. are the temples ; they are largo and magnificent, ornamented Avith col-
umns and covered with superb roofs of white marble. The streets are
bordered with shops finely decorated ; the splendor and variety of mer-
chandise exposed to the public eye present, in many quarters of the city,
a very agreeable sight. It is almost impossible for a stranger to know
any thing positive in regard to the population of the capital of China, or
that of the empire itself, for the government does not keep correct lists
of births and deaths, as is done in Europe ; but from vari jus means of
information which he obtamed, and from his own observations, M.
Timkovski estimates the population of Pekin at two millions.

On the 15th of May, 1821, the travelers left Pekin on their return
home. The thermometer indicated eighty-four degrees, Fahrenheit, and
next day the heat was very great. As they proceeded they perceived
mountains in the distance, especially the heights of Kiang-ching, occu-
pied by a brigade of artillery fi-om Pekin ; they like\vise saw the white
walls of the castle of Ming-yuan, and the pyramid near the fountain at
which water is drawn for the emperor.

On their journey to Pekin they had seen an ancient temple situated
on a mountain near the fortress of Kee-ming, to which the access was
very difficult ; but as it was near the road, and the weather was now
pleasant, they determined to visit it. They accordingly set out from
the fort under the guidance of a peasant, but lost their way, and were
soon stopped by precipices and rocks. M, Timkovski with several of his
companions took a road to the east, and after great difficulties finally
reached the temple. The rest of the party, who took a southern route,
returned without seeing any thing. The steepness of the mountain, the
projecting rocks, the numerous precipices, and the violence of the wind,
made them almost despair of attaining their object. Overcome with
fatigue they took each other by the hand and were thus continuing their
ascent, when the barldng of a dog apprised them of their approach to
habitations. After another difficult passage, by a route which led to
other temples further up, they finally reached the one they were seek-
ing. This temple, like all others, is built of bricks, and composed of sev-
eral chapels separated from each other and filled with idols ; near it was
a garden. A gigantic rock seemed ready to fall down upon the temple
and crush it. They met with no one but the guardian, who spoke a
little Mongolese. A steep, winding path, cut in the rock, led to the top
of the mountain. It is difficult to conceive the motives which led to the

_.„J

880

TIMKOVSKI'S JOURNEY TO PEKIN.

i^ii

erection of such a monument upon this nan-ow ledge of the mountam,
rrrounded by precipices and exposed to tempests. The transporUtion
Ine of the materi^s fiom the foot of the mountam, two miles distant,
would cost a vast amount of labor and enormous expense.

lie travelers met with poor lodgings at Khalgan; their neighbor
were playing cards and making a great deal of noise. Here they like-
w^e r'ecJived the disagreeable intelligence that for want of or^e- Jrom
the tribunal of Pekin for the continuation of their journey thc) would
be obliged to remain three or four days. On the 24th of May baymg
received their pei-mission, they set out upon the route by Nor-tian.
They crold over mountains where there was still a quantity of snow
whLh had fallen in abmidance a few days before. It was still cold on
t^Lghis; the wheat and rye had only just ^P-^^J^"^™ *^« ^X^'
while at Pekin the wheat was already in bloom. When they left Noi^
Tian next morning a thick fog obstructed the view ; it ^1-red -ay
toward noon, and the steppe lay spread out before them. The freshnesa
of the atmosphere and the song of the larks revived m them the hope
of soon beholding their native country again.

On the 4th of June they emerged from the high mountams and en-
tered a sandy plain which forms the commencement of the steppe of
Gobi At day'break next morning the wind blew rom the north and
the cold was perceptible, the thermonaeter ^"^icatrng forty-three d^
grees. At the station of Khujir, which they reached on the 9th, the
fandy steppe terminated; it has an extent of eighty mdcs. Beyond this
for fifty m^los the surface is gravelly and sterile. On the steppe the cold
was ^times keen and cutting, and at others the ^^f /- ^--^ '
they sometimes passed over stony heights, sometimes through small va^-
eys inclosing the bed of a dried-up stream. After ^omeaaj.ofih^
idnd of travelling they came, on the 19th, ^o Mou"t Oolan^k^^^^^^^^^
separates the country of the Sunites from that of the Khalkas. Just be-
Sne^hing the station of Gashoon that evening they were met by
their old friend, the Tussulakhchi Idam.

At 'ength they approached a chain of mountains which seemed to
bar up the way before them. At the extremity of a defile they found
on ho 21st,^the station of Oude, situated iii ^/'--y^'^l^^lZ
rounded by mountains. Oude, in Mo.golese, sigmfies gate ; ij^^
of the defile by which one enters the mountains. North of this dehle
Lieseitof G^obi is said properly to begin: -;<>PP« f^^^f tTtS
of wood, and of vegetation, which extends two hundred miles, to the
habTtatio'ns of the wandering Tsakhars. After pursuing the. rout^^^^^^
nearly a month through this desolate region, where the J^''^^^ ^^ f/"
interrupted by granite hills and stony valleys, they finally, on the 14th
T^ZtJ.^<>^ the summit of Mount KhaiiK^oK T^- J- -
remarkable as the last one in Mongolia, g«>°g/f ^^^^r.^'/jf *^,^ ^ty
in returning, that is covered with woods. A few miles further they
reached MSmit Scoudji, one of the highest of the cham, which they

■H

KIN.

I of the mountain,
The transportation
, two miles distant,
snse.

m ; their neighbors
3, Here they like-
ant of orders from
journey thc} would
tth of May, having
route by Nor-tian.
a quantity of snow.
It was still cold on
cd from the ground,
iThcn they left Nor-
w; it cleared away
iiem. The freshness
ed in them the hope

;h mountains and en-
nt of the steppe of
from the north, and
iting forty-three de-
hed on the 9th, the
r miles. Beyond this
n the Btcppe the cold
heat was oppressive ;
les through small val-
uer some days of this
Oolan-khadah, which
le Khalkas. Just be-
ig they were met by

ins which seemed to
>f a defile they found,
a stony valley, sur-
nifies gate ; the name
North of this defile
;eppe devoid of water,
[lundred miles, to the
rsuing their route for
•e the surface is often
ey finally, on the 14th
ola. Tliis mountain is
iithward, and the first
ew miles further they
the chain, which they

RETURN TO SIBERIA.

881

asccnc!ed with much difficulty by n steep and rocky road ; thence by a
dangerous descent they came to the station of Seoudji.

It was with extreme satisfaction that they beheld the rapid current
•f the T61a, upon whose banks they arrived next day ; it formed the
boundary of the desert steppes which they had been so long traversing.
At five in the evening they arrived at the Ourga. Here they rested a
while from the fatigues of the journey, and were meanwhile received
in a friendly manner by the vang.

On the 19th of July, they continued their journey. As an especial
honor they were escorted to the first station by a dzanghin and ten
Mongolesc, armed with bowa and arrows. The mountains and valleys
near the banks of the Burgultai were carpeted with flowers and beauti-
ful verdure ; a sight which they had not beheld south of the Ourga.
They crossed the Mantagai Mountains, whose rocky sides arc covered
with pines, birch, aspen, and a variety of shrubs, and came to the Bain-
oola River on the 25th, Mount Ouloii, which they passed on the 27th,
is very picturesque. Its sides are covered with pines, birch and as})en
trees, wild roses, etc. The Shara-gol bathes its foot ; the neighboring
plain abounds in luxuriant vegetation, sprinkled with elms. Beyond,
they saw a temple with its red roof, above which rose a chain of mount-
ains, crowned with forests of pine. In all Mongolia they saw no district
so well adapted to agriculture.

On the 31st they reached Ghilan-nor, the last station before Kiakh-
ta. At the extremity of a forest they came in sight of the town. This
view made them forget all their toils. The weather was becoming very
warm ; the mountains around were covered with wheat ready for har-
vest. Arrived at the station, two interpreters of the custom-house of
Kiakhta, in behalf of the director, brought them bread and salt, in con-
gratulation of their happy arrival.

At eight o'clock on the morning of August 1st, they were visited by
M. Goliakhovski, the director of the custom-house, and other employees,
the ataman tf the Buriate light-guard, and two ttadsd of Selenghinsk, in
company with whom, at ten o'clock, they finally entered Kiakhta, and
found themselves again on Kussiaa soil.

CAPTAIN COCHRANE'S

PEDESTRIAN JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA.

In the month of January, 1820, Cj^tain John Dundas Cochrane,
of the British navy, addressed a letter to the secretary of the Lords
Commissioners of the Admiralty, offering to undertake a journey into
the interior of Africa, which should have for its object the ascertaining
of the course and termination of the Niger. Captain Cochrane had
already traversed France, Spain, and Portugal, on foot, and had been
for years accustomed to undergo great fatigues and privations, among
which ho enumerates two trips from Quebec to Lake Ontario in com-
pany with six hundred seamen, whose wry faces and swollen feet told
hira that ho was more of a pedestrian traveler than they. He was
therefore confident of success in his undertaking, in which he intended
to go alone, requiring only to be furnished with the countenance of some
constituent part of the government.

The answer from the Admiralty was unfavorable, but the captain,
who thought his plan more than ordinarily feasible to one " who had
been roasted in some of the worst corners of the West Indies, during
a period of nearly ten years' service, without so much as a headache,"
was not wholly disheartened. "Finding, howevrer," says he, "that a
young commander like myself was not likely to be employed afloat,
much less ashore, I determined to undertake a journey, varying only
the object and the scene, similar to that of the unfortunate Ledyard,
viz., to travel round the globe, as nearly as can be done by land, crossing
from Northern Asia to America, at Behring's Straits ; I also determined
to perform the journey on foot, for the best of all possible reasons, that
my finances allowed of no other. Having procured two years' leave of
absence I prepared to traverse the continents of Europe, Asia, and
America."

Having filled his knapsack with such articles as seemed requisite to
enable him to wander among the wilds of three quarters of the globe,
he left London in the packet-boat for Dieppe, and on the 14th of Feb-
ruary set forward through France and Germany, toward St. Peters-

884

COCIIRANE'S JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA.

burg, where he arrived on the 30th of April (0. S.) Ills route lay
Ihrou^^h Paris, Frankfort, Leipsic, Berlin, Dantzic, Konigsbcrg, and other
important cities, in which ho halted to repose from the great fatigues of
the journey, and to examine the objects of interest that were to be
seen. Ilis clothes were m tatters, and liis shoes worn out by this trip of
sixteen hundred miles, during an inclement season, yet on his arrival at
the Russian capital he cheerfully continued the arrangements for pur-
suing his journey into the remotest wilds of that empire.

Through the influence of Sir Daniel Bailey, the British Consul Gene-
ral, who was an able advocate of his plans, Captain Cochrane gained the
favor of Count Nesselrode, the Foreign Minister, and of Count Kochou-
bey, to whom his affair was intrusted. He not only obtained the cus-
tomary passport and a letter to the Governor General of Siberia, but also
two oHicial documents signed by the minister, calling upon the author-
ities of all the to\vns and provinces lying on his route from St. Petersburg
to Kamtchatka, to aid him on his journey, and afford him lawful de-
fense and protection in case of need. The emperor likewise offered him
pecuniary assistance in the outset, which ho declined.

On tlie 24th of May (O. S.), he set out from St. Petersburg. He
carried a letter of introduction to Prince Theodore Galitzin, who occu-
pied the Imperial Palace at Tzarsko Selo, but on his arrival at midnight,
he found the palace wrapped in flames. After mingling awhile with the
crowd in extinguishing the conflagration, he retired to the gardens, and
spent a few hours of the first night of his journey lying in the open air
upon the grass. Having breakfasted with Prince Theodore, he pro-
ceeded toward Tosna, where he arrived at seven in the evening. He
thus contiimes the narrative of liis adventures next day: " I passed the
night in the cottage of a farmer, resigning myself to the attacks and an-
noyance of such vermin as generally haunt impoverished dwellings, and
was therefore proportionably pleased in the morning to pursue my jour-
ney. My route was toward Liubane, at about the ninth mile-stone from
which I sat down, to smoke a segar or pipe, as fancy might indicate ; I
wa« suddenly seized from behind by two ruffians, whose visages were as
much concealed as the oddness of their dress would permit. One of
them, who held an iron bar in his hand, dragged me by the collar toward
the forest, while the other, with a bayoneted musket, pushed me on in
such a manner us to make me move with more than ordinary celerity : a
boy, auxiliary to these vagabonds, was stationed on the road-side to keep
a look-out.

" We had got some sixty or eighty paces into the thickest part of the
forest, when I was desired to undress, and having stripped off" my trow-
sers and jacket, then my sb'>*t, and, finally, my shoes and stockings, they
proceeded to tic me to :. n-er,. From this ceremony, and from the man-
ner of it, I fully concluded that they intended to try the effect of a mus-
ket upon me, by firing at me as they would at a mark. I was, however,
reserved for fresh scenes ; the villains, with much mng froidt seated

..^.i-

' I IHW]

IBERIA.

.) His route lay
igsberg, and other
great fatigues of
that were to bo
out by this trip of
on his arrival at
ngements for pur-
re.

itish Consul Gene-
ochrane gained the
of Count Kochou-
/ obtained the cus-
of Siberia, but also
g upon the author-
from St. Petersburg
3rd him lawful de-
ikewise offered him

5t. Petersburg. He
Galitzin, who occu-
arrival at midnight,
;ling awhile with the
to the gardens, and
lying in the open Mr
5 Theodore, he pro-
in the evening. He
day: "I passed the
) the attacks and an-
rished dwellings, and
g to pursue my jour-
ninth mile-stone from
cy might indicate ; !
?ho8e visages were as
luld permit. One of
3 by the collar toward
jket, pushed me on in
a ordinary celerity : a
I the road-side to keep

le thickest part of the
stripped off my trow-
es and stockings, they
ly, and from the man-
ry the effect of a mus-
ark. I was, however,
sh sang froid, seated

PLUNDERED BT ROBBERS.

885

themselves at my feet, and rifled my knapsack and pockets, even cutting
out the linings of the clothes in search of bank-bills or some other valu-
able articles. They then compelled me to take at least a pound of black
bread, and a glass of rum, poured from a small flask which bad been sus-
pended from my neck. Having appropriated my trowsers, shirts, stock-
ings, and English shooting shoes, as also my spectacles, watch, compass,
thermometer, and small pocket-sextant, with 160 roubles (about £1),
they at length released me from the tree, and, at the point of a sttletio,
made me swear that I would not inform against them — such, at least, I
conjectured to be their meaning, though of their language I understood
not a word.

" Having received my promise, I was again treated to bread and rum,
and once more fastened to the tree, in which condition they finally aban-
doned me. Not long after, a boy who was passing heard my cries, and
set me at liberty. I did not doubt he was sent by my late companions
upon so considerate an errand, and felt so far grateful ; though it might
require something more than common charity to forgive their depriving
me of my shirt and trowsers, and leaving me almost as naked as I came
into the world.

" To pursue my route, or return to Tzarsko Selo, would, indeed, be
alike indecent and ridiculous, but being so, and there being no remedy,
I made therefore 'forward' the order of the day ; having first, with the
remnant of my apparel, rigged myself d V JOcossGisc, I resumed my route.
I had still left me a blue jacket, a flannel waistcoat, and a spare one, which
I tied round my waist in such a manner that it i cached down to the
knees : my empty knapsack was restored to its old place, and I trotted
on with even a merry heart."

Within a few miles he passed between files of soldiers, employed in
making a new road, under the orders of General Woronoff. The gen-
eral received him with kindness, administered food and refreshments,
and then offered him clothing, but the captain declined and soon after-
ward proceeded on his journey. He rode in the general's carriage,
which was directed to take him to the first station, but finding carriage-
riding cold he preferred walking, barefooted as he was, and in this man-
ner he approached Novgorod next day, passing by the way through
many large villages and a fertile and jKjpulons country. " Crossing the
bridge," he continues, " I entered the city at two o'clock, and imme-
diately waited on the governor. He would have provided me Wi h
clothing on the instant ; I was, however, hungry, and requested food.
The governor smiled, but assented, and I then accepted a shirt and
trowsers." Meanwhile he obtained good quarters at the house of a
merchant to whom he h.ad a letter of introduction, and who kindly
fiimished him with a complete refit. As ho was pursuing his journey,
» few days afterward, he received two nibles as charity from the master
of a post-house, from whom he ha<l also received refreshment gratis.
" Knowing a£ I did," says he, " that assistance was at hand, I declined

flfi

"::■••■

386

COCURANE'S JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA.

the money, allliough my then distrcascd state might have warranteil my
open ai'i't'ptanee of it. I cuiitiniieil my route, lui J upon luy arrival at
the next station I found the money in my cap.

" I entered Moscow at eight o'cloek on the morning of June 5th,
the last stage being distressingly fatiguing. JSIucli rain fell and I wiis
not a little happy to reach the hospitable abode of Mr. Uowan in time
for breakfast. The last thirty-two hours I warrant as bearing witness
to one of my greatest pedestrian trips — the distance is one hundred and
sixty-eight versts, or about ninety-six miles ; I have, however, done the
same in Portugal."

After leaving Moscow he sometimes traveled by night to avoid the
heat of the sun. His way of life seems to have excited an interest among
the peasants, who frequently divided their meals and shared their dwell-
ings with him, with the most cordial good will. When he showed them
liis passports they thought such a favor had never before been granted.
At one time we find him washing his linen by the wayside, and then
lying down under a bridge to enjoy a sound sleep, while his clothing
was dried in the sun ; at another sleeping contentedly in the open air,
or under such shelter as he chanced to find, after having spent the day
without food. Once he lialted at midnight near a pretty village on the
banks of a lake, where he was greatly charmed with the singing of some
boys and girls, accompanied by a simple two-stringed instrument;
" but," he continues, " the beauty of the night prompted me to con-
tiime my route, and I left the happy villagers for Pogost, twenty-four
miles, where I arrived half famished and quite fatigued, not having
tasted food during twenty-four Imurs, and a march of forty miles.
Being too jaded to proceed further I thought myself fortunate in being
able to pass the night in a cask ; nor did I think this mode of passing
the night a novel one ; often, very often, have I, in the fastnesses of
Spain and Portugal, passed the night in a similar style. Here I usurp
the place of crockery, there I usurped that of wine ; here in the land of
liberality, there in that of nonentity."

At Lower Novgorod he was entertained by Baron Rode, to whom
he carried a recommendatory letter. "He received me kindly," says
Captain Cochrane, " placing me for board in liis o^vn house ; while for
lodging I preferred the open air of his garden ; there, with my knap-
sack for a pillow I passed the night more pleasantly than I should have
done on a bed of down, which the baron most sincerely pressed me to
accept. His excellency the governor received me with customary at-
tention ; but I w.'is not so fortunate as to meet his amiable lady, an
Englishwoman. The truth was, her servant would not admit me,
judging, no doubt, from the length of my beard and the shabbiness of
my dress, that I must be a Jew, or something worse. Thus denied, I
embarked, in a freak of fancy, on board a lighter bound to Kazan, the
better to enjoy tho beautiful scenery of the Volga." The captam en-

:beria.

nvc wiirranteil my
,jon luy arrivul at

tihig of June 5th,
rain fell and I was
Ir. liowan in tiniu
18 bearing witness
J one hundred and
lowever, done the

night to avoid the
I an interest among
shared their dwell-
in ho showed them
fore been granted,
wayside, and then
, while his clothing
dly in the open air,
iving spent the day
•etty village on the
the singing of some
ringed instrument;
jmpted me to con-
Pogost, twenty-four
itigued, not having
roll of forty miles.
If fortunate in being
lis mode of passing
n the fastnesses of
style. Here I usurp
; here in the land of

iron Rode, to whom
ed me kindly," says
,wn house ; while for
here, with my knap-
Y than I should have
iccrely pressed me to
e with customary at-
his amiable lady, an
•ould not admit me,
and the shabbiness of
orse. Thus denied, I
■ bound to Kazan, the
ga." The captain en-

RUS8IAN HOSPITALITY.

887

tered as one of the crew, working his jcissage, and arrived at Kazan on
the 22d of June, after a passaj^o of twelve days.

On the 25th he set forward in a vehicle funiishod by the governor,
which conveyed him to Perm in four days. lie was so thoroughly fa-
tigued by the jolting, and was, moreover, so little pleased with the se-
verity of the jiostillion toward the peasantry, that ho was glad to resume
his journey on foot. In a few days he reached the Ural Mountains, and
crossing the boundaries between Europe and Asia, arrived at Jekatha-
rinenburg.

" On reaching the Asiatic side of the Ural chain," he observes, " I
could not help remarking th.it the inhabitants of all the villages were
much more civil, more hospitable, and more cleanly dressed ; and in no
one instance would they accejjt of money for the food I had occasion to
procure. I never entered a cottage but shtshce (a cabbage soup), with
meat, milk, and bread were immediately placed before me unasked ;
nor could any entreaty of mine induce them to receive a higher reward
than a pipe of tobacco, or a glass of vodka (whisky). In short, to pre-
vent uselessly troubling the inhabitants, I was obliged to consign my
nearly exhausted purse to the care of my knapsack, renotmcing the hack-
neyed and unsocial custom of paying for food. Among other proofs of
their civility, or rather of the interest which Russians take in foreigners,
as well as the means they have of making themselves understood, one
very strong one occurred to nic in a small village. I had learned so
much of the language as to know that kchorosho is the Russian word
for ice//, but not that kchudo was the translation for had. My host
being a good sort of a blunt fellow, Avas discoursing upon the impro-
priety of traveling as I did. As I could not comprehend him, I was
impatient to go, but he persisted in detaining me till he had made me
understand the meaning of kchudo. My extreme stupidity oflTered a
powerful barrier to his design ; but a smart slap on one cheek and a kiss
on the other, followed by the Avords kchudo, and kchorosho, soon
cured my dullness, and I laughed heartily in spite of this mode of in-
struction."

After reaching Tobolsk, he resolved to make an excursion, by way
of Omsk, to the Chinese frontier. The Governor General accordingly
supplied him with a Cossack, as well as a special order for horses, if he
should deem them necessary, and for every assistance he might require.
At the Tartar villages beyond Tobolsk, he was hospitably received, but
after he had advanced into the steppe he met with an unpleasant inci-
dent, which he thus relates : " At Toukalinsk, I had the misfortune to
lose what was to me my all— ray passport, papers, and every protection
in Siberia. In vain I addressed the commissary ; in vain I offered a
guinea for their recovery ; in vain T jiointed out the rogue who had
taken them in the tin case from tip seat while I was at dinner. I begged,
intrcated, insisted, threatened, abused ; all was to no purpose ; and I
was finally constrained to go without them. By this terrible disaster I

388

COCIIRANE'S JOUKNKY THROUGH SIBKRIA.

■.-'
^

wtw cntiroly dcprivod of all testimony of iiiyfldf, my conncotionN, or the
object of my jouriiuy, and lay at the mercy of any one who might choose
to provide mc with largo but cheap lodgings.

" On my arrival at Omsk, I of coudo presented myRelf to the inprnv-
nick, or head commissary, and made known my loss in as good language
as I could. I failed in making him understand me, but he humanely
gave me good lodgings until he could procure the presence of one of the
military officers, to act as an interpreter. This was done the nc\t day.
In the mean time, I addressed a letter to the Governor (Jencral and gover-
nor of Tobolsk, requesting an attested copy of the documents I had lost,
and which I had taken the precaution to have made there. The ]H)Iicc-
master invited me to dine with him, though he confessed ho could not
xmderstand either my object or character. lie was, however, soon satis-
fied by the arrival of an express with my passports, etc., all complete.
Thus was I, from a state of suspicion and surveillance, again restored to
society. I should bo very ungrateful, were I not to do justice hero to
the conduct of the commissary, who kindly went eighty miles, upon my ac-
count, to enforce the return of the pa{)cr8, which, being in a tin case, in-
duced the party to suspect money was there. All that I had, was, how-
ever, in my knapsack, and that did not amount to £5.

" Omsk is situated on the eastern bank of the Irtysch, at the junction
of the Om. The surrounding country is a vast, level plain, the soil of
which is fertile, though not extensively cultivated. Opposite, is the ter-
ritory of the wandering Kirghiz ; presenting no appearance of cultiva-
t ion or dwellings. A considerable trade is carried on with them, as also
with the Calmucks to the south, which consists in the barter of cattle,
etc., for tobacco and spirits. Several children of each of these tribes are
to bo seen in Omsk, who arc slaves, having been sold by their parents
for a pound of tobacco or a glass of spirits.

" The Calmucloi, who, like the Kirghiz, mako no scruple to dispose
of their children upon any momentary distress or want of spirits, are yet
a different race, both with respect to features and origin. They are,
however, their equals in idleness, and filth, and follow the same vajpibond
way of life. The Calmucks are, notwithstanding, the direct descendants
of the Mongolese, who emigrated hither after the destruction of their em-
pire. Very few are subject to Russda, a great part of them living in Chi-
nese Mongolia, while the rest of them, under the protection of Russia,
roam about the countries situate between the Don and 'V olga and the Ural
mountains. Their features will forever mark them, in whatever part of
the world ; the flat tace, small and elongated eyes, broad nose, high cheek
bones, thick lips, and brownish yellow complexion, are sure signs of their
Mongolian descent. They arc obliging, but inquisitive and diahonest ;
yet, with a little Russian education and discipline, they make good serr-
unts. I ate and drank with them, as also with the Kirghiz, upon roasted
meat, without bread, or any thing else, save a glass of spirits and a pipe
of tobacco." •, '

IKRIA.

inc(!tionH, or the
ho might choose

elf to the i«prnv-
18 good language
ut ho humanely
nee of one of the
ic the ncA.t day.
oncral and gover-
nicnts I had lust,
ere. The i»oUcc-
iod ho could not
ivover. Boon Hatis-
Btc, all complete,
again restored to

justice hero to
miles, upon my ac-
i( in a tin case, in-
, I had, was, how-

[h, at the junction
plMn, the soil of
pposite, ia the ter-
arance of cultiva-
With them, as also
B barter of cattle,
of these tribes are

1 by their parents

scruple to dispose
t of spirits, are yet
origin. They are,
the same vagabond
direct descendants
ruction of their em-
them living in Chi-
)tection of Russia,
'V olga and the Ural
u whatever part of
ad nose, high check
B sure signs of their
ivc and dishonest;
oy make good scrv-
irghiz, upon roasted
>f spirits and a pipe

TRIP TO THK CHIXK.SE FRONTIER.

380

Leaving Omsk, Captain Cochrane, att(>ndcd by a military Cossark,
proct'odcd southward by the line of fortresses on the right bank of the
Irtysch, and in a few days reached Kemipalatinsk, a fortress with nearly
one thousand soldiers. " I (juitted Hvmipalatinsk late in the evening,"
he writes, "and directed my steiw for Ubinsk, along the banks of a little
stream which gives name to the fortress, and which unites with the
Irtysch. I had entered a kibitka whii>h was piissing the same way, an<l
at some distance obser\'cd the postilion turn off suddenly to the right.
My mind misgave me, because in no instance before had I deviated from
the high-roa<l. I recollected, also, that the Cossack and fiostilion wen!
both half drunk, and had been m earnest and secret conversation ; I
therefore determined to quit by a nhort movement. It was ten at night,
and wo were in a low thick brushwood, when, taking my knapsack, I
suddenly quitted the vehicle, informing them, as well as I could by signs,
and an obstinate persistence not to go their way, that if they were bouiwl
as thoy had pretended they would follow me. I continued alone, and
regained the main road ; the vehicle also tacked and came after mo, but
I refused to re-enter it, and marched on to the next station, keeping
them at a respectful distance all the way. On my arrival I discharged
the Cossack, without, however, reporting his conduct to the German
commandant, as I perhaps ought to have done."

At Bukbtarminsk he procured a guide and went on toward the
boundary. Having arrived at Macaria, he thus proceeds : "The night
was so beautiful, the moon just ascending above the hills, that, in spite
of a good supper which was ready and inviting my attack, I resumed
my journey on horseback, in company with the landlord, to Malaya-
Narymka, the last Russian spot on the frontier. An officer and a few
men placed here, are all that are left trf mark the boundaries of two
such mighty empires as Russia and China. I fi}rded the little stream
which forms the actual limit, and seating myself on a stone on the left;
bank, was soon lost in a reverie. It was about midnight ; the moon,
apparently full, was near her meridian, and seemed to encourage a pen-
sive inclination. What can surpass that scene I know not. Some of
the loftiest granite mountains spreading in various directions, inclosing
some of the most luxuriant valleys in the world ; yet all deserted ! — all
this fair and fertile tract abandoned to wild beasts, merely to constitute
a neutral territory I To the first Chinese settlement it is eighty miles ; I
would fiiin have visited it, but durst not without previous notice, and for
this ceremony could ill spare the time."

Returning, he embarked on the Irtysch and descended the river by
stages to Udinsk, whence he proceeded, with a Cossack, to Bnmaoul.
On his arrival he found groat preparations for receiving the Governor
General Speranski, whom he was anxious to meet. His excellency ar-
rived on the second day, and Captain Cochrane met him at the public
dinners given in his honor, where he himself became a conspicuous ob-
ject. His hair and beard were long, he wore a long swaddling gray

890

C0CURANK8 JOUKNKY THIlOUail 8IBE1UA.

nankeen coat, iiiul a silken wish around liis waist: "Indec.l," remarks
li.e captain, " so yreat a buek had I become of late tliat 1 iiardly knew
ni\ rtclf." Having laid \m plans before the Governor (Iciurai, the eaptam
continues: "Ho told me that there wad an expedition on the river
Kolyma, fitted out purposely to solve the cpiestion regarding the north-
east cape of Asia; and his excellency khidly offere.l mo his pernnssion
ti) proceed witli it. Too glad to accept a favor of the kin<l, I instantly
closed with the offer, and determined not to wait a moment in Irkutsk
and Yakutsk beyoml the necessary time, but to proceed immediately to
the Frozen Scis either to share tho fortune, good or bad, of the expe-
dition or, in case of any impediment from jealousy, to withdraw and
follow some other plan. The Governor General supplied me with various
orders and reconunendations for whatever places I should visit."

With this valuable recommendation ho hastened forward, attended
by a Cossack. At Tomsk, the governor presented him with fifty rubles,
a watch, a pair of spectacles, and a few articles of wearhig apparel, mak-
ing part of the effects of which he had been robbed near St. Petersburg.
Beyond Tomsk, the route lay through a dreary, woodless waste, where
tho villages were numerous, but miserable in tho extreme, exceptmg
those inhabited by Tartars ; and afterward, as tho country became more
hilly the roads grew worse, until on approaching Krasnojarsk they wero
HO nearly impassable that he preferred walking. In tho government of
Irkutsk the road improved, and tho country appeared more fertile.

On arriving at Irkutsk, he was received m a to^^^ering manner by the
commandant of the navy, and was induced to take up his abode with him.
" Having made myself as decent as my Umited wardrobe would aUow,"
he continues, " I called on tho vice-governor, who made great promises,
and exceeded them in perforhianco. Upon quitting his exceUency, I
made some visits, and delivered my letters of recommendation, made
inquiries as to my future movements, and then returned to an elegant
dmner with ray host, who had invited a party of twenty persons to

meet me. . . ^ i is. i a i •

" Next morning, in company with Captain Koutigm, I left tho Admi-
ralty House, which is two miles from the city, to view whatever is notable
in Irkutsk. Fifteen thousand inhabitants, including three thousand of
the military, are said to compose the population. Irkutsk indeed scarcely
deserves the name of city, except for its pubUc buildings, which are good ;
yet, though I confess it is upon the whole a fine town, I could not but
feci disappointment from its total want of original plan, as well as its
present want of regularity, which must retard its advancement for a long
time to come. Tobolsk is certainly its superior in every thing except its
situation, and the singularly fine appearance of a few buUdings, pubhc

and private.

" My stay in Irkutsk was but a week, when, being funushed with a
fresh Cossack, and with every assistance I desired to enable mo to reach
the river Lena, I set out, a little melancholy at parluig with such kind

3 E 1(1 A.

ri(li'('(l," ronmrks
It I hunlly know
uTuI, the citptuiu
on on tho river
irdini? tho north-
10 his periiiisHion
kind, I instantly
Dnient in Irkutsk
I immediately to
bad, of tho expo-
,o withdraw and
1 me with various
jld visit."
)rward, attended
with fifty rubles,
iug apparel, mak-
it St. Petersburg,
less waste, where
treme, excepting
itry l)ocanio more
nojarsk they were
lO government of
more fertile,
ng manner by the
is abode with him.
)bo would allow,"
le great promises,
: his excellency, I
imendation, made
led to an elegant
wenty persons to

n, I left the Admi-
rhatever is notable
three thousand of
sk indeed scarcely
3, which are good ;
n, I could not but
plan, as well as its
ncement for a long
sry thing except its
iv buildings, public

I fnniished with a
enable mo to reach
ig with such kind

VOYAGE DOWN TUK LKNA.

891

friends. At seven miic.-i I had a last view of flu* city. Tho country \u-
came very elevated, and the road lay over hill and tlalc as far as the lirtli
Btiitioii. With the exception of some little corn, the land is one uninter-
rupted jijisture. Tho inhabitants, Russians, are pntfy numerous, and
their villages, though small, 0(!cur at frequent intervals. The post-houses
are good and convenient halting-places.

"I soon reached Vercholensk, a largo and populous town, distant one
himdred and fifty miles from Irkutsk. The road is by dangerous j)re(i-
pices, and at this place tho communication by land ceases, a circumstance
at which I was not a little rejoiced, longing to bo again upon my own
element. I soon procured a canoo and a couple of hands, who, with the
Cossack and myself, paddled down tho stream. Proceeding day and
night in my open canoe, I generally made one hundred to one hundred
and twenty miles each day, and wherever I went, fared well from the
hospitality of the Russian colonists, as well as from that of my friends at
Irkutsk, who had provided me, according to tho Russian proverb, with
plenty of bread and salt. This simple sounding provision also included
some Hno partridges, a hare, a largo piece of roast beef, and a quantity
of meat pies ; not omitting wine and rum. A traveler in Russia, whether
native or foreigner, on taking leave of his friends previous to his depart-
ure, uniformly finds at his lodgings all tho provisions requisite for his
journey, with another lodging pointed out at some friend's upon his
next route, for as long as he pleases. Indeed I have no doubt, as the se-
quel will justify the assertion, that a man may travel through the Rus-
sian Empire, as long as liis conduct is becoming, without wanting any
thing — not even horses and money ; excepting only the civilized parts
between the capitals.

" Pursuing ray voyage, I reached Vittim, which is half way to Ya-
kutsk, upon the eighth day. Hero I was first overtaken by the ice floating
down the river, yet not so as to incommode me, and I had enjoyed the
luxury of fine autumnal, though cold, weather. Sometimes the boat
was so much entangled in the ice, that the poor fellows were compelled
to strip and track her, up to their waists in water, while the atmosphere
was twenty-five degrees of Fahrenheit ; I could perceive that they suf-
fered a good deal in consequence, for upon their return to the boat, they
could not tell which part of their body to restore first to proper anima-
tion. Their great resort, I invariably found, was to take a mouthful of
smoke from their pipe — not, however, of tobacco ; the greater part at
least being birch-Avood dust, or fine shavings, mixed with a very scanty
portion of tobacco, the latter article being extremely dear : if to this
luxury can bo added, however small, a drop of brandy, they will cheer-
fully, and even thankfully, undergo the repetition of the suffering. At
one of these villages, I resumed my knapsack, and in three days reached
Olekminsk, the last thirty miles on horseback.

" From Olekminsk to Yakutsk is about four hundred miles, which,
except the two last stages, I completed in the canoe. It was on the 1st of

892

COCIIRANK'S JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA.

( )ctobor that I left, and thu 6th M'hen I arrived. The weather proved
\ eiy cold, and snow fell heavily ; the atmosphere dark, and having every
appearance of winter : yet, iipou the whole, the season is considered
backward, as on the 1st of October the Lena is generally frozen over, and
in three weeks more admits of travelers with sledges ; but at this time I
was enabled to reach within fifty or sixty miles by water, although '.» ith
some risk and difficulty.

" Yakutsk, although a considerable place of trade, and a great pass
lor the American Company, is ill built, and more scattered oven than
Irkutsk, in the most exposed of all bleak situations, on the left bank of
the Lena, which is in summer four miles, and winter two miles and a
half, wide, appearing, as it really is, one of the finest streams in the
world, running a course of more than three thousand miles from its
source, near Irkutsk, to the Frozen Sea, which it enters by several
mouths. There are seven thousand inhabitants in the city, of whom the
greater part are Russians, and the rest Yakuti. Half a dozen chnrches,
the remains of an old fortress, a monastery, and some tolerable build-
ings, give It some decency of appearance, yet I could not help thinking
it one of the most dreary-looking places I had seen, though I was in the
«'njoyment of every comfort, and therefore the less disposed to complain.

" I remained in Yakutsk three weeks, making the needful preparar
tions for my journey during so severe a season of the year. In par-
ticular I looked to the nature of my dress, for the accounts of the cold
which I should have to encounter were such, that I considered myself
exposed to death, without even the satisfaction of expecting to be buried,
from the eternal frost that prevails here. Could, however, this feeling
be gratified, the satisfaction would be materially increased by the knowl-
edge that the body itself would enter the next world in the same state
that it left this ; for everywhere to the north of Yakutsk, the earth, two
feet and a half below the surface, is perpetually frozen ; consequently a
carcase buried in it at that depth must remain perpetually the same.

" The way I passed my time at Mr. Minitsky's Avas sufficiently reg-
ular ; I rose early, and always went early to bed ; occupied, while day-
light lasted, with bringing up my journaJ ; then at a game at billiards ;
afterward at dinner, always on the most excellent fare, with wine, rum,
and other delicacies. In the evening, with a party of the natives, male
and female, at the house of the chief; the ladies to all appearance dumb,
not daring to utter a word, and solely employed in cracking their nuts,
a very small s]X}cies of the cedar-nut, which abounds in such quantities
as to be made an article of trade to Okotsk and Kamtchatka. I am not
exaggerating, when I say that half a dozen of females will sit down and
consume each many hundreds of these nuts, and quit the house without
having spoken a word — unless a stolen one, in fear it should be heard.
While the ladies are thus cracking their nuts, staring, and listening, and
speechless, the gentlemen are employed in drinkini^ rum or rye-brandy
[umch, as their tastes may dictate. Nor is even good rum a scarce

ERIA,

iveiither proved
id liaving every
n ia considered
frozen over, and
ut at this time I
•, although '.tith

md a great pass
sercd oven than
the left bank of
^\vo miles and a
streams in the
I miles from its
[Iters by several
ity, of whom the
dozen churches,
> tolerable build-
lot help thinking
lugh I was in the
3sed to complain,
needful prepara-
i year. In par-
junts of the cold
onsidered myself
ing to be buried,
rever, this feeling
led by the knowl-
n the same state
ik, the earth, two
1 ; consequently a
lUy the same.
IS sufficiently reg-
upied, while day-
ame at billiards;
, with wine, rum,
the natives, male
appearance dumb,
acking their nuts,
in Buch quantities
jhatka. I am not
will sit down and
he house without
should be heard,
and listening, and
um or rye-brandy
)od rum a scarce

WINTER TRAVEL IN SIBERIA.

393

article hero, coming as it does by way of Karatchatka. I was one feast-
day on a visit to a respectable old gentleman, one of the coun(;il ; there
were no chairs, but a long table was spread, with fish pies, a piece of
roast beef, boiled deers' tongues, and some wild berries in a turt. The
first thing presented is a glass of brandy, which I refused, knowing the
chief to have sent some good wine ; this I was offered, and accepted,
when I was told by my friend the chief, that it was not the custom to
accc^pt any thing of that kind the first time, but to await the third.
Relying upon the chiefs better knowledge of the Siberian world, I re-
fused the next glass of wine, which was offered me twice, and need not
say I ultimately lost it, probably from the practice of economizing good
wine in a place where it can seldom be purchased.

" My dresses completed, and the river having, according to custom,
been passed and declared closed, I packed up my knapsack and other
baggage, as I w.i8 provided also with a couple of bag* of black biscuit
through the kindnoss of my host, M'ith a piece of roast beef, a few dried
fish, half a dozen pounds of tea, and twenty pounds of sugar-candy, be-
sides fifty pounds of tobacco, and a keg of vodkey (corn-brandy), a most
indispensable article on such a journey, whether for my own or others'
consumption, I had besides a pipe, flint, steel, and ax, and, what was
of most importance, a Cossack companion, who indeed proved inval-
uable to me. My destination was Nishney Kolymsk, distant about one
thousand eight hundred miles, which were to be traveled over in the
coldest season of the year, and in what is esteemed the coldest part of
the north-east of Asia."

He left Yakutsk on the last day of October, the thermometer being
at twenty-nine degrees below zero, and aft«r a wearisome journey of
two days, alternately walking and riding, alike to escape the fatigue and
the cold, he arrived at the banks of the Aldan, where he thus proceeds
with his narrative : " On the 6th of November I crossed the Aldan, and
breakfasted at a solitary yourte (at ten miles), completing in the evening
thirty miles, where we halted in a cabin about ten feet square. Had
it, however, been much worse or smaller, I must have felt thankfiil, for
I had been severely pinched by the effects of the cold and the wind in
my face. A good firj, a cup of tea, and a sound slumber, with pleasant
dreams, perfectly refreshed me by the ensuing morning. The country
had of late been level, but at twenty miles I became enveloped in a lofty
chain of mountains, Avhich I had been for some time gradually ascend-
ing, and which are called the Toukoulan chain, from the word Touku,
which, in the Yakut language, signifies " noisy ;" as indeed the river of
that name does roar down its precipitous banks. We halted for the
night at the foot of a mountainou.^, peak, sheltered from the cold north
wind ; and as this was the first night which I was to pass in the open
air, I shall describe the manner of it, in order that it may be known how
far (contrary to my calculations) our situation was susceptible even of
comfort.

894

COCIIRANE'S JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA.

" Tl»c first tiling on my arrival was to unload the horses, loosen their
saddles or pads, take the bridle out of their mouths, and tie them to a
tree in such a manner that they could not eat. The Yakuti then with
their axes proceeded to fell timber, while I and the Cossack, with our
lopatkas, or wooden spades, cleared away the snow, which was generally
a couple of feet deep. We then spread branches of the pine-tree, to
fortify us from the damp or cold earth beneath us : a good fire was now
soon made, and each bringing a leathern bag from the baggage, fur-
nished himself with a seat. We then put the kettle on the fire, and
soon forgot the sufferings of the day. At times the weather was so cold
that we were almost obliged to creep into the fire ; and as I was much
worse off than the rest of the party for warm clothing, I had recourse to
every stratagem I could devise to keep my blood in circulation. It was
barely possible to keep one side of the body from freezing, while the
other might be said to be roasting. Upon the whole, I passed the night
tolerably well, although I was obliged to get up five or six times to take
a walk or run for the benefit of my feet. While thus employed, I dis-
covered that the Yakuti had drawn the fire from our side to theirs, a
trick which I determined to counteract the following night. I should
here observe, that it is the custom of the Yakuti to get to leeward of the
fire, and then, undressing themselves, put the whole of their clothes as
a shelter for the outer sides of their bodies, while the inner side receives
a thorough roasting from exposure to the fire ; this plan also gives them
the benefit of the warmth of their own bodies. The thermometer during
the day had ranged from fifteen to twenty-five degrees below zero, ac-
cording to the elevation of the sun.

"The following day, at thirty miles, we again halted in the snow,
when I made a horse-shoe fire, which I found had the effect I desired,
of keeping every part of me alike warm, and I actually slept well with-
out any other covering than my clothes thrown over me, whereas before
I had only the consolation of knowing that if I was in a freezuig state
with one half of my body, the other was meanwhile roasting to make
amends. On the third night I reached the foot of the mountainous pass
which may be said to lead to Northern Siberia. My route had hitherto
lain generally on the banks of the Toukoulan, which runs along a pic-
tiiresque valley on the western range of the mountains, and is well wood-
ed with fir, larch, and alder. Upon reaching thus far, I looked up at
what I had yet to perform, and, I confess, felt astonished, not at the
height, but how it could be practicable to get up a slippery and almost
trackless road. However we commenced, and mainly by preferring the
deep snow, as I uniformly did, at last gained the summit, but not with-
out great fatigue ; a horse could not carry a person up under a consider-
ble time, and it took me two hours at least. We sat down, my Cossack
and I, to gain breath and wait for the Yakuti with the baggage, in the
mean time smoking a pipe ; but it was too cold to remain ; we thorcforo
prepared to descend. As to keeping my feet, however, that was impos-

SIBERIA.

horses, loosen their

and tie them to a
e Yakuti then with
I Cossack, with our
rhich was generally
of the pine-tree, to
I good iire was now
I the baggage, fur-
ttle on the fire, and
weather was so cold

and as I was much
g, I had recourse to
circulation. It was

freezing, while the
e, I passed the night

or six times to take
has employed, I dis-
3ur side ta theirs, a
ing night. I should
ret to leeward of the
B of their clothes as
16 inner side receives

plan also gives them
I thermometer during
Ejreea below zero, ac-

haltcd in the enow,
the effect I desired,
ually slept well with-
ir me, whereas before
as in a freezing state
lie roasting to make
;he mountainous pass
y route had hitherto
lich runs along a pic-
ins, and is well wood-
i far, I looked up at
stonished, not at the

slippery and almost
nly by preferring the
lummit, but not with-

up under a consider-
at down, my Cossack

the baggage, in the

remain ; we therefore
ever, that was impos-

TAKUT VORACITY.

395

sible ; I therefore laid down, and slid to the bottom of the most danger-
ous part, a feat for which I had nearly paid dear, by coming in contact
with a horse which had taken the same expeditious mode of descending.
The path was so narrow, that one error would have pitched me forever
into the abyss of snow beneath ; and, although not deep, would have
prevented a return, unless I had fortunately liiUen with my teet down-
ward ; the half-frozen surface of the snow serving in some manner to
bring the person up : falling on one side I found very dangerous, unless
somebody was near to render assistance. I soon reached what I may
term a charity yourte, being erected by the community in general for
the accommodation and preservation of travelers. It consists of a twelve
feet square room, with a small ante-room which serves as an entry, and
may be properly termed a log-house, having no window, unless a large
opening in the roof may be so termed."

In this manner they arrived at Baralass in six days by a route leading
through magnificent scenery, but a dreary and desolate region, " where,"
observes Captain Cochrane, " there is not an individual dwelling in the
whole extent from Aldan to Baralass, a distance equal to half the length
of England." They reached Tabalak on the sixth day from Baralass, a
distance of two hundred and thirty miles. " The third day," he writes,
"was the coldest I liad experienced, the thermometer ranging trom
thirty to thirty-five degrees below zero, attended M'ith some snow. We
passed several habitations of the Yakuti, who invariably offered us a
lodging and provision for the day ; and always appropriated to me the
best berth, which is in that corner of the room imder the image, ai^d
opposite to the fire.

" At Tabalak I had a pretty good specimen of the appetite of ^ child,
whose age (as I understood from the steersman, who spoke some English
and less French) did not exceed five years. I had observed the child
crawling on the floor, and scraping up with its thumb the tallow-grease
which fell from a lighted candle, and I inquired in surprise -whether it
proceeded from hunger or liking of the fiit. I was told from neither,
biit simply from the habit in both Yakuti and Tongousi, of eating when-
ever there is food, and never permitting any thing that can be eaten to
be lost. I gave the child a candle made of the most impure tallow, a
second, and a third — and all were devoured with avidity. The steers-
man then gave him several pounds of sour, frozen butter ; this also he
immediately consumed ; lastly, a largo piece of yellow soap ; — all went
the same road ; but as I was now convinced that the child would con-
tinue to gorge as long as it could receive any thing, I begged my com-
panion to desist as I had done.

" For an instance in confirmation of this, no doubt, extraordinary
statement, I shall refer to tie voyages of the Russian admiral, Saritcheff.
' No sooner,' ho says, ' had they stopj)ed to rest or spend the night,
than they had their kettle on the fire, which they never lefl until they
pursued their journey, spending the intervals for rest in catuig, and, in

896 COCHRANE'S JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA.

consequence of no sleep, were drowsy all the next day' J^e admiral
To says 'That such extraordinary voracity was never attended with
n^l-t, althouffh they made a practice of devounng, at one meal,
X wtld h^^^^^^^^ other plson. The laborers.' the adn^iral

^vt Tad an allowance of four poods, or one hundred and forty-four
EnSish^unds of fat, and seventy-two pounds of rye-flour yet ma for^
S he^ complaini of having nothmg to eat. Not cred.tn.g the fact,
Z YakuuTaid that one of them was accustomed to consume at home,
'^het-e of a day, or twenty-four hours, the »>-<^-?-'^- ^J ,^7^
o., tv,eLv pounds of fat, -nd a proportionate qnnnU^^MJ^u^
for his drink. The appearance of the man not just.fymg the assertion
the aL ral had a mind to try his gormandizing powers, and for that
itpoth: had a thick porrid/c of rice boiled down ..th thr^e ^.md
of butter weighing together twenty-eight pounds, and although the

^^utton hLl «W^^ y«* ^t ^: f 'Tom tiet't S

easrerness, and consumed the whole without stirrmg Irom the spot , and
oS that his stomach betrayed more than an ordinary fulhiess, he
Zwed no sign of inconvenience or injury, but would have been ready
to renew his gluttony the followmg day.' " . , ,u „,*

AftcT n ne days of this toUsome kind of traveling, they at length got
cleat of thTdcsert of snow, and descended from the hills ; t -n p.wng
: ong a well-wooded valley to the Indigirka, they entered he town of
Zashiversk. " Of all the places I have ever seen, bearmg the name ot
dfy or town," observes Captain Cochrane, "this is the most dreary ^d
deLL m^ blood froze wHhin me as I beheld and approached tno
pZ AlUhat I have seen in passing rocky or snowy sierras or parses
rSoainn traversing the wastes of Canada, or in crossing the Co dil-
"rlTAndes^in South America, the Pyrenees, or the Alps, can -^^e
compared with the desolation of the scene around me ! The first con
Sble hllting-place from Yakutsk, the half wy house, is nmeh^^^^^^^^^

or one thousand mUes removed from a «»->^? .f ^«; ^ „^"t mo^t S
pame to a commissariat, and contains seven habitations of the most »
abte kUid inhabited severally by two clergymen, each separate, a noti-
^cS^iisLed officer, and a icond in command; a poftm-ter a -
chant, and an old widow. I have, durmg my service '" the nay, and
durinVa period when seamen were scarce, seen a merchant ship wi h
^xteen g^n" and only fifteen men, but I never before saw a town with

'^''l oIThelfd'oTD;^ I quitted the to.n of Zashiversk, not un-

grateful for the hospitality of its poor h-hitant^'/'^^X^^PKuri
with plenty of fish, here eaten in a raw state, and which to this hour 1
^me£ L the g eatest delicacyl have ever tasted. Spiteof our prej-
XT theTe is nothing to be compared to the meltmg of raw fish
L the mouth ; oysters, clotted cream, or the finest jelly m the world i
.Wnrto it • nor is it only a small quantity that may be eaten of thw
""^^ZJ^ty. I mU have\nished a whole fish which, m its

SIBERIA.

day.' The a<lmir»l
iCver attended with
ouring, at one meal,
iborerB,' the admiral
idred and forty-four
■e-flour, yet in a fort-
ot crediting the fact,
to consume at home,
d-quarter of a large
itity of melted butter
itifying tlie assertion,
powers, and for that
m with three poimds
Is, and although the
)wn to it with great
r from the spot ; and,

ordinary fulhiess, he
ould have been ready

ig, they at length got
he hills ; then passing
entered the town of
hearuig the name of
i the most dreary and

and approached tho
iiowy sierras or passes
I crossing the Cordil-
r tho Alps, can not be
1 me ! The first con-
house, is nine hundred
ce. Such a spot gives
ions of tho most roiser-
, each separate, a noti-
; a postmaster, a mer-
rvice in tho navy, and

a merchant ship with
)efore saw a town with

i of Zashiversk, not un-
, who had supplied me
d which to this hour I
ited. Spite of our prej-
le melting of raw fish
!st jelly in the world is
at may be eaten of this
whole fjsh which, in its

HR BECOMES A PRIEST.

897

firozen state, might have weighed two or three pounds, and, with black
biscuit and a glass of rye-brandy, have defied cither nature or art to pro-
pare a better meal. It is cut up or shaved mto slices with a sharp knife,
from head to tail, and thence derives the name of Stroganina. My first
day's journey made me better acquainted with the power and use of
dogs ; water or ice, fish, firewood, travelers and their goods, and every
thing, being here drawn by these animals. I continued over a flat coun-
try, and lakes communicating with one another by small streams, suffer-
ing much at times from the cold, especially in the knees, which, although
not sensibly cold, had a feeling of deadness and painful fatigue which I
could not account for, till a peddler explained to me, by signs and words,
that, if I did not alter my plan, I should certainly lose both my legs
above the knees. They appeared indeed a little inflamed, owing, as he
said, to the inadequate protection of the knee-joints, which, on horse-
back, are more than ordinarily exposed, all the defense they had being a
single leather, in sometimes sixty-eight degrees below zero, Fahrenheit.
I considered that I was still bound to tho northward, and that the ex-
treme of winter had not yet come upon me, and therefore thought it
better to accept a pair of sonturee (knee-preservera, made of the skins of
reindeer's legs), which ho very kindly offered. The service they did mo
is astonishing ; from that moment I had less pain and more heat, and be-
came fully satisfied that tho extremities are alone to be taken care of."

At length the traveler's eyes became painful from the effects of the
snow on the eye-lashes, but he still pushed on over a miserable road, tho
fatigues of which need not be repeated, and on the eighth day reached
Sordak, three hundred and twenty miles from Zashiversk. In the few
wretched abodes which they passed on the route, they sometimes found
the occupants in a state of starvation. " Having well refreshed ourselves
with the flesh of a wolf and a horse, which had the day before fought
each other to death," continues tho captwn, "we departed on the 14th
toward the Kolyma. The first night we pot np at a yonrte, forty miles,
encompassed by squalling children, growling and howling dogs, and a
scolding and tyrannical hostess. Having procured wood for the night,
on the morrow we depaited, but not before I had got into a scrape, for
hanging my cap and gloves upon the pins which bear the images of wor-
*ip. The infuriated woman complained to the Cossack of the insult.
The Cossack told her I was an English pope, or priest, Mid that I was
privileged ; the length of my locks, as well as beard, was proof positive,
and thenceforward I was called the English priest.

" On the 19th of December, I reached Sredne Kolymsk. The priest
having, with the commissary and principal people of the place, paid me
a visit, tho former entered my habitation crossing himself, as is custom-
ary ; then advancing to me, who stood offering him my hand in the En-
glish style, I was honored with his blessing, which I acknowledged by an
exchange of the compliment. The old gentleman retreated in astonish*
ment, and, demanding who and what I was, my Cossack answered that

898

COCHRANE'S JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA.

I was an English priest ; upon which tho reverend gentleman observed
he was in error, as one priest could not give benediction to another. He
then shook hands, and expressed his friendship for me. Another instance
of the effects of my beard, and of more value to me, though less to the
priests of Siberia, arose from the circumstance of the Yakuti coPiing to
me frequently with the right hand open, and supported by the left, which
I interpreted into an asking of alms, and accordingly gave them some-
thing to eat. This, howe\'er, they evidently declined, and still continued
their supplicating pobture. My Cossack afterward gave me to understand
that I was mistaken, for that they were begging a blessing. I therefore
determined to satisfy the next Yakut who appeared during one of my
rambles along the river ; and when a Avell-dressed Yakut knez, or prince,
demanded my blessing in passing, I gave it to him in the Russian style,
as well as to his family. When I left them the prince began to unload
a sauma, or leathern bag, and following me, kissed my hand, and insisted
upon my accepting a couple of sables ; nor could all my entreaties induce
him to take them back, that being considered the greatest insult ; nor,
indeed will any return be received for a religious offering on the spot ;
afterward, a little tobacco, a knife, or flint and steel, is considered an ac-
ceptable present.

On Christmas day he set forward, and after a journey of five days
over a flat country, with the temperature at from forty-five to fifty de-
grees below zero, he arrived at the station called Malone. On the last
day he traveled sixty miles, " although," he observes, " I was obliged
from the cold to dismount at least twenty or thirty times to take a run
for mere self-preser^'ation. At Malone the track fiar horses is in general
finished, though they do sometimes go as far as Nishney Kolymsk, and
even to the Frozen Sea, in search of sea-horse and mammoth's tusks. I
was now provided with thirteen dogs and a driver, and a vehicle covered
over with a sort of frame and oil-cloth, to keep out tho cold, as it was
thought too great for me to withstand. A bear-skin and warm blanket
and pillow were also placed in it, in such a manner that I might lie
down, be warm, and sleep at my pleasure. I got in, and it was closed
after me ; not a breath of air could enter ; so that, notwithstanding the
intense cold prevailing on the outside, I was obliged to make my escape
from the suffocation within, by taking out my knife and cutting a way
through to gain fresh air.

" We reached fifty-five miles with the same dogs, and put up for the
night at a Yukagir hut. Resumed next morning, with increased cold,
though calm weather, and reached Nishney Kolymsk at noen, amid a
frost of sixty-two and a half degrees below zero, according to many
spirit thermometers of Baron Wrangel's, on the last day of December,
1820, after a most tedious, laborious, and to me perilous, journey of
sixty-one days, twenty of which were passed in the snow, without even
the comfort of a blanket ; nor had I even a second coat, or parka, nor
even a second pair of boots, and less clothing than even the guides and

ilBERlA.

entleman observed
on to another. He
Anotlier instance
, though less to the
e Yakuticor.ingto

d by the left, which
'ly gave them sorae-
l, and still continued
,ve me to understand
lessing. I therefore
d during one of ray
akutknez, or prince,
in the Russian style,
nee began to unload
ny hand, and insisted
my entreaties induce
greatest insult; nor,
offering on the spot ;
il, is considered an ac-

joumey of five days
forty-five to fifty de-
Malonc. On the last
srves, " I was obliged
y times to take a run
for horses is in general
S^ishney Kolymsk, and
I mammoth's tusks. I
, and a vehicle covered

out the cold, as it was
kin and warm blanket
,nner that I might lie
)t in, and it was closed
t, notwithstanding the
red to make my escape
life and cutting a way

ogs, and put up for the
ig, with increased cold,
olymsk at noon, aimd a
ero, according to many
I last day of December,
le perilous, journey of
the snow, without even
ond coat, or parka, nor
urn even the gmdos and

BARON WRANQEL'S EXPEDITION.

899

attendants of the poorest class. I met, at Nishney Kolymsk, the Baron
Wrangel, and liis companion, Mr. Matiushkin, a midshipman. It was
the last day of the old year, and in the present enjoyment of a moderate
meal, a hearty welcome, and excellent friends, I soon forgot the past,
und felt little concern for the future. Quarters were appropriated me
In the baron's own house ; and with him, on the shores of the Frozen
Sea, I enjoyed health and every comfort I could desire.

" On the morning after my arrival at Nishney Kolymsk, and wliilo
at breakfast I received, as a new year's gift, a couple of large fish in a
frozen state, weighing each five or six poods, or about two Imndred
pounds weight. I inquired for what they were intended, and learned,
that I could not be supposed to have brought fish with me for subsist-
ence ; and that, as the season had already passed for laying in a stock,
the inhabitants of course knew that I must be in want. During the
forenoon I also received a parka, or leather frock, to be worn during
my stay in the Kolyma. It was a handsome one, mounted with sables
and martins. To these were added trowsers, cap, boots, and leather
hose ; in short, every article of dress that could be desired, and sufficient
to have served nie at least a twelvemonth. Besides these articles, I was
also provided with a bear's skin for a bed, and a leather covering for a
blanket, lined with hare's skins.

" Baron Wrangel's expedition I found in a state of much forward-
ness, great exertions having been used in collecting dogs and drivers,
and provisions, as well as in making new nartes, or sledges. I learned
that it would depart from the Kolyma in the month of March, in two
divisions — one having for its object the solution of the question regard-
ing the latitude and longitude of the north-east cape of Asia ; and the
other, a journey due north from the mouth of the Kolyma, in search of
a real or supposed continent, or rather the continuation of Asia to where
it was imagined by some to join the continent of America. I did not
hesitate to volunteer my sor^'ices ; but in ( onsequence of my being a
foreigner, I found my services could not be accepted without special
permission from the government. I therefore made up my nund to set
out for the fair of the Tchuktchi, and to try my fortune in getting a
passage through their country, and so to cross over Behring's Straits
for America.

" Nishney Kolymsk may be termed a large town in this part of the
world, containing, as it does, near fifty dwellings and about four hundred
people (or eighty families), which is three times the number of any
place betwixt it and Yakutsk. No cultivation can of course be expected
in a climate wherein scarcely a blade of grass is to be seen ; the horses,
which do sometimes tarry in its vicinity for a few days, feeding upon
the tops, stumps, and bark of the bushes, or upon the moss. The inhab-
itants manage, notwithstanding, with great labor to feed a couple of
cows ; though to do this they are obliged to bring the hay eighty miles."

The town and district of Kolyma are subject to the ravages of many

400

COCHRANK'S JOURNEY TIIROUOII SIBERIA.

iliHensoii, such as leprosy, apoplexy, nccrvy, and others, which tho captain
(fnumeratcs, and then procecdg as follows: "The complaints called
lUahk mi corpty and imeravhiiini, mn^t also be specified ; the former is a
most extraordinary one, and considts in an idea that the body of tho par
tient is possessed with ono or more devils, attended with incessant hic-
coughs. The parties afflicted with it are generally most delicate and
interesting in their appearance ; and it is seldom indeed that any indi*
vidual is cured. In females it prevails to such an extent as ntterly to
prevent pregnancy. I have seen them hiccough to so great an extent,
as to induce me to strike them on the nppcr part of the spine, in the
hope of relieving them from tho pain by a surprise of the moment.
They persist in believing that a devil is in the body of the person afflict*
ed, and that, until he be removed, tho person will never regain health.
The complaint, whatever it may be, the natives consider as an inherit-
ance from their fathers. Imerachism, to which not only the people of
the Kolyma, but those also of more sonthern countries are subject, is
equally unaccountable. Instead of exciting serious fits, like the last-
mentioned disorder, it carries with it an air of merriment, as it by no
means affects the health of the person, though it subjects him to tho
most violent paroxysms of rage, fear, and mortification. Whatever is
said or done in the presence of on imeracb, will bo repeated by him at
the moment, however indecorous, improper, or violent the act may be.
I have seen the dog-master of Baron Wrangel's expedition commit acta
sufficient to frighten the person in company with him. While in an ad-
joining room conversing on points of duty, a slight knock at the bulk-
head was sufficient to set him a pummelling the person with him merely
from a principle of selMefcnsc. Of this same dog-master, by the way,
a highly amusing anecdote is related, and which was confirmed to me,
not only by himself personally, but also by Mr. Gedcnstrom, of Irkutsk,
who commanded the expedition. The theater was the Frozen Ocean,
and the imeroch's dogs and narte were the headmost. One forenoon
they encountered a large white bear; the dogs immediately started
toward the animal, and the driver, being the dog-master of whom I un
speaking, stead&stly kept his place, prudently remaining by those who
only could assist him. In the eagerness of the dogs, sharpened probably
by hunger, they became entangled with ono another, and were almotft
rendered useless. The driver seeing the state to which he was reduced,
resolved to attack the bear with his ostol (a stoat ironed stick with smaH
bells, which serves to atop the narte), and accordingly presented himself
to the enraged bear, who immediately raised himself upon the hind lega^
and began to cry and roar most bitterly ; the imerach followed his ex-
ample. The bear then began to dance, and the driver did the same, tifl
at length the other nartes coming up, the bear received a blow upon the
nose and was secured. Two old ladies in Kamtchatka, one, the mother
of a Mr. Tallman, an American, who had married a Russian girl, the
other, the wife of a Russiim, who were both afflicted with the disease,

MtMli.

ERIA.

\\k\\ the cftpt^n
unplaints called
the former i» a
body of tho pa-
ith incessant hic-
ost delicate and
;d that any indi-
gent as nttcrly to
great an extent,
the spine, in the
of the moment,
the person afflict-
vcr regain health,
ider as an inherit-
™ly the people of
rics are subject, is
fits, like the last-
riment, as it by no
jbjects him to tho
ion. Whatever is
repeated by him »l
nt the act may be.
idition commit acts
1. While in an ad-
knock at the bulk-
on tvith him merely
master, by the way,
« confirmed to me,
enstrom, of Irkutsk,
1 the Frozen Ocean,
,o9t. One forenoon
immediately started
aster of whom I am
lining by those who
, sharpened probably
cr, and were almost
rich he was reduced,
oned stick with small
y presented himseVf
upon the hind legs,
raoh followed his ex-
iver did the same, tin
4ved a blow upon the
atka,one,thentoth«r

1 a Russian girl, the
ted with the disease,

VI.SIT TO THE TCHUKTCni.

401

were sitting at tea opposite to one another, when Mr. Tallman, in a gen-
tle inunner, put his hands behind their backs, propelling the old ladies
toward each other, upon which they instantly exchanged tea-cups and
saucers, while the really offending party stood enjoying the mischief."

Captain Cochrane remained at Lower Kolymsk during the months
of January and February. The weather was exceedingly cold. Mean-
while the preparations for tho expedition were completed, and Baron
Wrangel and his party set out on tho 27th of February. On the 4th of
March, the Captain lefl the Kolyma on a visit to the Tchuktchi. lie
traveled in company with Mr. Matiushkin, tho midshipman, and some
merchants, whose nartes were loaded with tobacco and iron utensils for
the fair of the Tchuktchi, to bo held at the fortress of Ostrovnaya. Tlic
weather was lino, being but twenty-five degrees below zero. On the 8th
they reached the fortress, situated on tho Aniuy, one hundred and fifty
miles from the Kolyma.

" Having settled ourselves in a small Yukagir yourte," continues tho
captain, " Mr. Matiushkin and I received a visit from one of the Tchukt-
chi, a most empty countenanced and wild looking savage. He entered
the room where we were, tumbled himself down upon a stool, smoked
his pipe, and then quitted the room, without once looking at, or taking
the least notice, either of us or any thing about us. The commissary
having made his appearance, it was determined to commence the fair,
by first installing two of the chiefs with medals and swords, baptizing
them, and receiving a nominal tribute. Tlie morning was ushered in by
the arrival of these persons in state, dressed in their gayest apparel, and
seated in a beautiful narte drawn by two rein-deer, the whole forming a
ca/alcade of twenty-five or thirty pairs. Having reached a large store-
house, to Avhich the altar and images were carried, the priest pro-
ceeded to baptize the two men, their wives, and three children ; but in-
stead of being merely sprinkled with water, they, men and women, were
obliged one and all to strip, and to be three times plunged into a large
iron caldron of ice-water, with the thermometer on the spot at forty-
seven degrees below zero, with no part of their dress on except their
trowsers ; and were afterward directed to bathe their feet in the same
cold water. I could not help pitying the women and children, the
former of whom, having long hair, became, as it were, enveloped in
icicles. A small cross suspended round the neck, with many difficult
and almost useless injunctions how to pronounce their newly-acquired
names, completed the ceremony. A quantity of tobacco was then given
as a present to each of the new converts, by way of inducing otheis to
follow the example.

"I next day visited their camp, distant abont two miles and a half.
It consisted of three large and three small tents. The former contained
the bulk of tho Tchukskoi people, and the latter were appropriated to
the chiefs and more considerable people. The large tents were disgust-
ingly dirty and offensive, exhibiting every species of grossness and in-

i-tiH^

COC II RANK'S

JOURNKY THROUOII SIBKRIA.

Rut tho sma'lcr were, on tl.o r<,ntrary, very neat, cloun, ftjid
delicacy. But the 8maicr%>i '. i,,.^^^,.^ below zuio. h\-

warm, althouglMvithout a ^"^^; ^^X^ h^^ --^Y -ij^'»'^ l'-"» '""«'
deed thoy wcro to "-/l'"7^J^;\'' ;,;i\., ol^.n/thr^^^ or four ,.co-

dvvcllin.'s, I lound the chief and Ins wito perfectly "a^'^*|' '^J ;

and '™P"t«'\'V,nrv Their furniture consists of a large kettle,

live, I returned to the fortress, driven by one ot the clnets
nar^e, drawn by a couple of rein-deer .n a V^J^'^^^^^^^nn
,ar reins, made of leather thongs, -"'l^J.^Taer is exercised oc^a-
ivory nob to it, of the tooth of a «^f ^^^j^ j^^^j ^ ^mblc of inflicting

and in every other way appear »''«'"'^ .«» '''^^t ,„ '2 narte, when
""* '^rS °"X;=™f * T» Srl: pee„har,y large,

They have no diseases, and live to a great age , J^^ J J j^ j^ad

fair being past seventy, as calculated by the number of voyages they naa
made ere thov accompanied Captain Billings.'

The foi It length finished. Captain Cochrane prepared to depart
fnr Nishnlv Ko ymsk. " My return to the Kolyma," he wn es, oc-

amammmitme^

neat, clean, and I
below zero. In- ,
eijrlit feet lou!?, |
livec or li)iir peo- ,
i-tlcer skins im'l .
are inatk« also of
on the iusule and j
them for a ligl'*' j
ino of these small

Led, as was also a
did tli(-y seem to ,
but ordered the
b for ns, whu-h she
,t. Ilavins lolhnl j
vted with the rein- ,
)f our complement.

rant of air and tho
time.

! for quitting him,
iscd my design of
,s of a large kettle,
n ax, with flint and
state in which they
^o chiefs in a neat
le. They use regu-
iging cane with an
."r is exercised oc^a- j
capable of inflicting j
,o the Tehuktchi for |
,09, whether dogs or i
A. Nay, to so great j
[age nation it is con- |
they prefer to walk, \
\xQ labor of the ani-
, in the nartes when
not peculiarly large,
)us size, gives them
lear skins, but ordm-
r are wild and rude,
o of the chiets at the
|r of voyages they had

prepared to depart
TOia," he writes, " oc-
Lofthe carriage, and

Ittle or none of their

JOUUNEY TO 0K0T8K.

408

common food offering for sale on the banks of tho Aniuy. I was most
happy to meet with the Haron VV range), who had returned from his ex-
jiedition around Skelatskoi Noss,"

Captain Coelirane now prepared for tho journey to Okotsk. lie
Iiad attempted to pcrsua<le tlie Tchuktehi to convey him througli their
country, but failing in this, he resolved to proceed by tho direct route,
wliieh was most difficult and dangerous, rather than retrace his stops a
long distance, and follow a monotonous road by the more circuitous
one. Tho commissary, Cossacks, and Yakuti, wjio were ordered to at-
tend liim, all ronionst rated ; tho latter were so fearful of a journey of
llie kind that they even attempted to bribe him by presents to take an-
fiflier, but the captain was resolute. "To me," he remarks, "tho hard-
est (lay's work was followed by the Iiappicst evening and the soundest
sleep as I lay down on my snow pillow."

Wo left Lower Kolymsk on the 27th of March in a narto drawn by
ihirfeen dogs, who took him eighty miles a day, and on tho fifth day ho
arrived at Sredno, or Middle Kolymsk. Here he remained two days
awaiting a fresh Cossack, who was to attend him to Okotsk. "I felt
most happy," he observes, "in preparing onco more to tread a new
road, and throw aside the difficulties which were forever thundered in
my ears." Finally they set out ; on the second day they were thrown
into a snow pit, and tho horses becoming disengaged from their bur-
thens, scrambled up the pit, leaving the travelers and baggage to shift
for themselves. After ten miles' walk they reached a yourte, whose
owner sent tor the baggage, the Yakuti having gone for the horses.

At Verchne (Upper) Kolymsk he loft the Kolyma, and at length
reaching the Zyzanka, pursued his route through tho defiles of a mount-
ainous region. Tho party subsisted on partridges and hares found in
traps by tho wayside. " Wo at length entered upon the Hokusolbetio
and Bochiera, two .'vers, which, entering tho Zyzanka at a narrow de-
file, form a sort of frozen torrent, over which the horses had great diffi-
culty to pass, aa piles of ice lay in every cross direction. The Cossack
and guide now began also to suffer, while I was gaining ground from
habit and superior strength of constitution. The guide was almost
blind, while the Cossack was afilicted with a severe diarrhoea arising
from want of food, for our game had failed us, and he was too much
a Greek to eat horse-meat. It was, however, his ovm fault, for he al-
ways ate voraciously whenever an occasion offered.

"The snow was deep but soft, the noon-day heat melting the surfiice,
and the night's frost again freezing it, just sufliciently to bear a man
with snow-shoes; so that, in addition to our other difficulties, the horses
began to fail. Vfe nevertheless continued our route, gaining the Zy-
zanka, and laterally erossiiig the moimtains which confine it. We then
entered the most dismnl, dreary, and inhospitable valley I have ever
Been ; not a blade of grass, nor moss, not a shrub, tree, nor even a
morsel of drift wood, to be seen, but one tremendous slate mountain

IMMW

'^ COCnKAKK-sTTOU^NKV THBOUOU SIDKHIV.
..ney. Wo encamped on the V.^^ 1;^.^ :?".! 'ui:^" "^

Humed, and I longed to ^T^^^^^^U -d «o weak that it
grew wor«e, having been ^^'-^^'^ ^f/j^'^'^he guide wan almost blind,
l^ nece««ary to lanh hjm to the hor^e J^^ ^^^ j

being unable even to ^""K ^"'«„ ''''"' ,„ ,.f ostler, wood-cutter, guido,
Jlu8 compelled to perform the ^';";^^X. tho^^^^^^^^^
doctor, cook, and traveler ; regreUmg on y the n ^^ _ J^^^^^ ^ ^^^^ ^ ^^^^

uie 80 to act, for otherwise I took bo uu

""t remained at a miserable yourte ^ve ^iayM^-U^^^ \^kt :1: '
in .Ling the Co-k;^^^^^^^^^^^ -n. Ho i

feet high, and stout in f ^^'^^'^ „„^^^^ word of the Iluss.un lun-
was, however, a mere >';»^;-;! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ immovably lazy. On the
guage, a great glutton, stup.d o^^^^^^^^^ stupendous path, wlueh
fifth day after startmg "g"^'" J^ f^'^^^t' but also the other mount-
overlooks not only the '^"^^""^"^^'^"^Z^iw.ry that the horses got
ains ; it is almost a bare rock ^" J ^^^^^^^J^^e^ inoment as much as
very severe falls in the ascent, f^'J^S^^^'' ^^^^^ despaired of gaining
it had taken ten minutes labor to achieve. 1 aim p ^^^^^^^^

le summit, but we at ^-^J^ ^^.^^^^^^^^^

«Ud down the opposite P^'P'^; "4^^'^;reonsidered it, as it really was :
covered with frozen snow, ^or mysui ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^

an ice mountain, and desinng the guide to tol , p ^^^ ^^^^.

any accident. I was "^ ^^f^J/./re/eatures, sent to my assist- I
dencc, which ever watches the wants oi a .^^^^^^^ ^^^„.

ance the sick Cos«ick, -^^J^^^2\tJ^^^^^^^^^^ «« -'"'^ ^" '''"
gage, had followed our track with a conp.« .,,g „„t

!l^ lo tell us that we had «»f «^^"/,' ^ ^^^^^ „ot feel so thankful as

to the Kolyma. . ^ . „ ,, „„,.v rituation, without any fire. My

« We passed the night in a dreary situa^n, ^^^^^.^^^^ ^^^^

tea and bread were both consumed ,notlungi ^^^^ ^ ^^^^

horseflesh, which I found very g-^ : J^*^^^^^^^^^^^ eould, or would eat,
birds, but as I knew that f «^. "^'^'^^^Vrd' we considered how to a.-
of course I gave them up to him^ ,^'f,Sippery, and there appeared
cend the mountain; ^^e snow was solid and supply, ^^^ ^.^^^^

no other mode than the one which ^^ f J^^f-^; -ntefvals, to obtain
and chopping the surtace -rth a ha ch t ^^-^^ ^^^^^, ^,,„aed, and

, ^ . ' I 11111 III i m«

fiirinR upon our ■

M>or Cossack now
J go weak U»at it
vaa almost blintl,
, pasturo. 1 waH
rood-cutter, puxlc,
litythatcoinpolU-a
it, that I sK-i't tl'«

BO what 1 could do
with a Yak»t,Hix
ivo ever Been. lU'
of the Ilussian \m\-
mblylazy- On the
endouiJ path, which
o the other mount-
that the horsoH got
moment as much as
t despaired of gainmg

the horses actually
thigh, the rock being
ed it, as it really was,
passed down without
dilemma; but Provi-

•es, sent to my assist-
idbeinf .ithout bag- \

jes. lie came in tunc I
li . duty pointing out
ot feel BO thankful a,s
, illness was pretended,

-vong, or he might not
1 from me to proceed

without any fire. My
i,i short remained but
,ck had brought a ftw
,e could, or would cat,
considered how to as-
ery, and there appeared
-creeping np the side,
uent intervals, to obtain
B Cossack ascended, and
hauled up the baggage
„g ourselves between it
more management ; lor,

A PERILOUS SITUATION.

405

arcustomed ns tho horses arc to the most lahnrions and dangerous jour-
neys, and with all their sagacity and taineiicss, I found (hey (Huiid not
ascend nhovo half tlic mountain, tho flitiguo was too great ; in short,
ihcy were compelled to give it up, and recoil ono<' more to the ])aao in
a state of perfect agony. Thus paswd the day ! Our situation now
seenu'd desperate ; tho horses had received no food for two days, with
more than ordinary hard work, during whidi we hud enjoyed no fire ;
yet still "neboice avoco leh(»" (fear not — perhaps) were the rallying
words, and these alone served us for supper. Our monster of a guide
was quite insensible to our situation, nn<l sat grumbling that ho had not
more than twenty pounds of meat a day, with such hard work.

" This night was passed oven inoro miserably than tho last, as we had
not even the benefit of our bedding or clothing, both of which had been
hurled down tho opposite valley, without respect to whom they belonged.
"Wo rose the third morning, prepared for hard Avork ; and our first at-
tempt was to haul tho horses up the precipice, W^o in part succeeded,
as tho strongest were actually received, and cast adrift on the opposite
side to feed. Tliis occupied us all day, and the third night was passed
with tho cheering hopes of resuming our journey the following day ;
but these were frustrated, as it was not until late in the evening that
we succeeded in passing all tho horses we designed to keep ; one we
wore obliged to kill and carry with us as food. Our bully-headed Yakut,
too, became wonderfully alert on this occasion, knowing he should re-
ceive aii extra allowance of meat, were it for no other reason than to
lighten the other brutes. I, however, determined to make some reserve,
and accordingly taking a quantity of tho slaughtered animal, sufficient
to serve the Yakut on his return, I buried it in the snow, which I thought
would continue unraelted for ten or twelve days, and marked the place
with a cross. This precaution I considered was more than ordinarily
necessary with my gigantic companion, who had infinitely less concern
toward tho prevention of future starvation than to the support of pres-
ent gluttony.

" The only mode of passing the last three horses was by making a
regular staircase np tho hill, by means of axes, and strewing it with
earth ; myself and the Cossack, who were on the hill, holding a rope
attached to the horse's head, while the guide behind, whose task it was
to flog the beast, had no sinecure, as from his immoderate size he was
almost himself incapable of moving. The result of the last five days was
that we had lost five days' traveling, five days of the best season, and
five days which were worth fifty of those which followed : the fault was
not mine ! Tho weather was still very cold, and I felt some relief in
getting close to a cheerful fire. Next day I directed my course by a
compass, for the guide knew nothing about west-south-west, intending,
if possible, to gain the river Indigirka."

By continual exertions, walking, wading across streams, and some-
times swimming the rapid currents of rivers, he at length reached the

406

COCHRANK'S JOURNKY THROUGH SIBERIA.

Omekon district, where lie a^aiu ciitcroil an inhabited region. " We
were now," he observes, " renewed with fresh courage, and my Cossaclc
particularly inspirited with a regale of beef which had been given him at
the first yourte. For niyself I preferred to partake of the old horse-
meat I had still left ; havhig a mind to shame the Cossack and show him
that he ought to eat any thing when necessity dictated. I liud passed
twelve days without any other food than the liorse-meat we had brought,
generally eaten in a raw st.-ite, and a small part of the animal we had
killed ; yet I was never in better lu-alth. I remained three days at the
Omekon, and was again obliged to leave my Cossack, from ill health and
fatigue. Having procure<l in his stead a young lad, born in the valley
of Omekon, with him, and four of the native pruices in my train, I de-
parted along the banks oi the river."

Following this stream to its confluence with the Indigirka, lie then
crossed the mountains to the country watered by the Tourrourak, and
halted at the last yourte in the government of Yakutsk, Here he ap-
plied to a prince of the wandering Tongousi, for reindeer and further
assistance on his journey. After some delay the prince finally consented
to take him, and on the third day they set out with fifty head of rein-
deer. They made good progress for a few days, but at length the rein-
deer began to lag and droop, the weather became bad, and the prince
having lost several of his animals, threatened to leave the captain or
carry him back. To this the latter was not disposed to submit. They
had reached an elevated pass in the mountains, leading to the vicinity
of Indgiga, but were unable to cross it, owing to the state of the snow.
On the sixth day they renewed the attempt, but were obliged to give it
up, three laden reindeer being dead and the rest too weak to convey
the carcases or the baggage. They remained three days to recruit the
reindeer, and then resolved to return to the Omekon and attempt the
long passage with horses. The prince now complained that he had not
force sufficient to carry the baggage, and Captain Cochrane Avas obliged
to destroy the greater part of it. When the Tongousian saw what he
was about, he remonstrated, asking why he did not give the things to
him. As it was evident, however, that the prince had been duping him,
and, as he thought, compelling him to forsake his baggage, the captain
reluctantly persisted in burning his clothing and bedding, in spite of the
violent demonstrations of the latter, who brought forward the image of
the virgin and his patron saint, and spit, swore, stamped, and crossed
himself like a madman. At length he told the captain it had been pre-
viously arranged that the latter should return to the Omekon, to which
place he actually returned on the eighteenth day, recrossmg the Tour-
rourak and Boulabot rivers with much difficulty.

Procuring fresh horses the captain again left the Omekon. The snow
was now softened by heavy rains, but was still so deep as to impede
their progress and to deprive the horses of their accustomed nourish-
ment. "The Yakuti," says the captam, "put on long faces at the ob-

JRIA.

region. " Wc
ad my Cossack
n given him at
the old liorse-
i and show him
, I hud passed
^e had brought,
animal we had
iree days at the
m ill health and
»rn in the valley
I my train, I de-

digirka, he then
Tourrourak, and
jk. Here he ap-
ileer and further ^
finally consented j
ifty head of rein- i
t length the rein-
d, and the prince
e the captain or
;o submit. They
ig to the vicinity
tatc of the snow,
obliged to give it
a weak to convey
ays to recruit the
and attempt the
d that he had not
irane was obliged
isian saw what he
five the things to
been duping him,
gage, the captain
ng, in spite of the
irard the image of
nped, and crossed
n it had been pre-
Omekon, to which
crossing the Tour-

nekon. The snow
eep as to impede
".customed nourish-
ing faces at the ob-

SWIMMING TUB OKOTA.

407

structions we met with, never having witnessed such deep and difficult
roads, for in ordinary times good pasturage is to be had in this part of
the valley. The horses having to contend with such difficulties, our
journey was continued on foot. My snow-shoes I gave up to one of the
guides, in consideration of his being very heavy, while, for myself, with
a quick motion, my weight Avas not sufficient to permit my sinking in
the snow ; — in case I had, the guide with snow-shoes was near to render
me assistance. Wo were now frequently compelled to wander about on
the borders of precipices, directing our route by the shade or appearance
of the snow ; habit having accustomed me, as well as the people of the
country, to a pretty accurate calculation whether or not the snow would
bear me. I have even seen the horses refuse to proceed, their sagacity
in that case being equal to man's ; nor will the leading dog of a narte,
if ho is good, run the vehicle into a track where there is deep snow or
water.

" At length, by great labor, we reached the fording-place at the
Okota. It was, however, impossible to attempt it, the guides observing
that the horses might pass the river, but not loaded. We therefore
halted, and next morning found a place where there was a canoe on the
opposite bank. Thereupon unloading the horses, we turned them into
the river, and they all reached the opposite bank in safety. The question
then was how to get the canoe over ; I was the only person who could
swim, but the water was still so cold that I felt no preference to that
mode. Necessity at last compelled me, and having procured a short
stout jjiece of drift wood, which was very buoyant, I crossed at a narrow
part of the stream, with a leather thong fast to my waist. The rapidity
of the stream carried me down above a hundred yards, but the Vakuti,
kc(!ping, by a sort of run, in a parallel line, were ready to haul me back,
if necessary. I, however, reached in safety ; and, instantly throwing off
my clothes, took violent exercise. The breadth of the swimming part
might only have been fifteen or twenty yards, and across the strength
of the stream possibly not more than four or five yards ; yet I barely ac-
complished it. The feat was thankfully acknowledged by the astonished
Yakuti Avhon I returned with an excellent canoe."

The Okota was so much swollen by the rains, that the Captain left a
Yakut with the horses, and decided to take to the water. "To starve
on one side of the river, be drowned in it, or die upon the other side,
appeared alike to :ne," he says, " and I accordingly embarked our little
baggage upon the raft, composed of ten logs of trees about fifteen feet
long, crossed by five others, and again crossed by two more, to form a
seat for the person taking charge of the baggage, which was lashed to
the raft.

" It was with difficulty we moved our vessel into the main channel,
from the number of eddies ; but having once reached it, we descended
in a most astonishing manner, sometimes actually making the head giddy
as we passed the branches of trees, rocks, or islands. No accident hap-

408 COCHRANE'9 JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA.

pen•.n.^ and the river widening, I began to congratulate my compamonB
on t rprobability of breakfasting the next day in Okotsk ; but as yet I
Tad no?got upon the proper side of the stream, the islands and shoals
Jletually tuning Joft The Cossack and Yakut contmued ma state
ofTarm not entirely without cause, for upon roundmg a pomt of land
we observed a large tree jutting into the river, with a tremendous and
Tnid surf running over i't, the branches of the tree preventmg the raft
from p^ing oJ the body of it, which wa. so deep m tl- -t- as o
preclude a hope of escaping with life-it was at le^t imposs ble to a oh
beinff wrecked The Cossack and Yakut crossed themselves, while I
w^OuTetly awaiting the result in the bow. We struck, and such was
r for e of the rebound, that I was in hopes we should have been thro.-n
outsrthe shaft in the subsequent approach ^ ^^l^^^^^^^l^^^^^^
minted for the forepart of the raft was actually BUcked under the tree
^d the afterpart rose'so high out of tl- water, that it ccnjpetelyt^^^^^^^^
over bringing the baggage under water; the v/hole then with the
St rd'Ssack, procfeded down the stream, and fortunately brough
up upon an island about one hundred yards below. In the -a" -» '^«
mv rituation was dangerous ; being in the bow, I could not hold on the
S ^my companion! had been able to do, for fear of bei-g J-^^^^^
between the raft and the tree. I therefore quitted ™y ^^I'l' ;«j' ;;^*'^ '^.
finite difficulty, clung to the outer branches on t^« ^^Pf «f^f J^^'/^^^^
my body was sucked under, and no part of me was «"^ ^f^'l^/J^^^^J^^
4 head and arms. I could not long remam m such as ate and mak
■Jr, therefore, one vigorous effort, on the success of which it was clear
m;'life depended, I gained the top of the tree I --/^J^^-J ^f^^^^.
upper parka, when the branch gave way, and I dropped down, I'^i" drown
"„T o the inland. It was a fortunate circumstance that the raft uj^et
L Otherwise it could not have brought up at the island ; which it did in
Isequence of the baggage lashed to the raft ^fS -^-P^ '^^'^^^^
Our situation, notwithstanding, upon the island, "^^'^ ^l^^^JT^
pleasant. On either side of us was a rapid channel, and I was as for aj
ever from accomplishing the object I had in view; which was that of
setting upon the right bank of the river; for then I might expect to
ret h fome habitation, there being none upon the left bank nearer than
s X hund" d miles, halfway to Idgiga. My first care was to change my
wet clothes, and ;arm myself by exercise; tho next was o unlash and
land the baggage, and to save as much of the raft as possible, our de iv-
eranco deptfdfng upon it. By hard work we ^<^^orn,A.^^^^^^^^^
Bun had set ; after which it soon began to be very cold. The «??««'•»"««
of the nigM was unfavorable, as it foreboded ram; it wouldjhere[^^^^^
have been highly indiscreet to remain longer than necessary ; as me river
might, in one night, so increase as to cover the island

To launch a raft into the channel I could not ^ttemp , as by that
time it would be dark, and we should certainly meet with the same ac-
cent Id probably v^orsc results. I therefore walked toward the end

BERIA.

J my companions
tsk ; but as yet I
lands and shoals
itinucd in a state
T a point of lond,
, tremendous and
•eventing the raft
,n the water as to
ipossible to avoid
emsclvea, while I
ick, and such was '
have been thrown j
}, however, disap- j
ed under the tree,
completely turned
le then, with the
)rtunately brought
In the mean while
d not hold on the
" being jammed in
hold, and, with in-
lid side of the tree;
It of the water but
a state ; and mak-
which it was clear
IS throwing oflf my
ldown,halfdrown-
hat the raft upset,
id ; which it did in
o deep in the water,
was by no means
and I was as far as
which was that of
I might expect to
\ bank nearer than
e was to change my
t was to unlash and
i possible, our deliv-
implished it ere the
id. The appearance
it would therefore
cessary ; as the river

attempt, as by that
5t with the same ac-
Iked toward the end

FURTHER PERILS.— OKOTSK.

409

of the island, till I camo opj^site to a large tree wliii;h had fallen from
the continent nearly half way across the narrowest part of the channel,
which might be about fifty or sixty feet. To swim through the central
part of it was impossible ; but it appeared to me piobablc, with the help
of nautical ingenuity, to save not only ourselves, but also the baggage;
and this I accomplished in a true sailor-like fashion."

Ho constructed a floating bridge from the timbers of the raft, by
first fastening some of the pieces to the shore, and securing the outer
iikIs against the current by means of lines fastened up the stream, then
lashing other pieces to the ends of these and securing them in the same
manner, until the third course rested against the tree. Over this rude
structure ho passed in safety, followed by the Cossack, but the Yakut
Avould not venture. The captain then returned, and making a raft of
the bridge, ferried over the Yakut, baggage, and lastly himself, assisted
by the Cossack with a line from the opposite shore. On the last passage
the raft upset, and the captain was pulled ashore with his clothes sur-
rounding him in a casing of ice.

A fire was now kindled, but the height of the grass and the dryness
of tiie wood was such that the whole forest was soon enveloped in flame,
and they were obliged to work hard to prevent it from being fatal to
them. Tlio great tire induced the other guide to swim the horses
across to their relief. All were now reunited, and after spending the
night in drying their clothes, they resumed the journey next morning.
This was the third day without food, and on the sixth, with little else
than berries to keep their spirits up, they arrived at the habitation of a
Yakut prince, upon an island in the Okota. " My host," says the cap-
tain, " was neither civil nor hospitable ; but by a sort of force I got some
horse-meat from him, and which I considered, at that time, a great del-
icacy, added to some bread Avhich I procured from the sailors and
carpenters employed in felling timber for the dock-yard of Okotsk.

"Fresh horses were given to me at this station, and I proceeded on
to Okotsk. The route lay through some fine park-like scenery, and then
over a thick sandy forest of tall pine-trees; the weather was most un-
favorable, as it rained hard. At length I reached the eastern sea-coast,
that is, the North Pacific Ocean, and was compelled to halt at a miser-
able hut, affording scarcely a shelter from the elements. The following
morning, to assist the Yakuti, who begged of me to leave their horses
in the pasture, I paddled along the stream to the old town of Okotsk;
and calling on the police-master, was by him, in the government boat,
carried over, with all the formality and respect due to my rank, to the
abode of the chief of Okotsk, Vladimir Ushinsky."

It was on the 19th of June, 1821, that Captain Cochrane arrived at
Okotsk. His object in undertaking this long and painful journey, had
been first to ascertain the situation of Skelatskoi Noss, then to trace the
American continent as far as possible to the north-east. But the first
problem being solved by Baron Wrangel's expedition, and a fleet hav-

mni-'^tri

410

COCHRANE'S JOURNEY THROUGH SIBERIA.

ing already gone to America, he accordingly gave up his design and
resolved to retrace his steps to Europe, after spending a winter in Kamt-
chatka. He embarked on the 24th of August, and in two weeks ar-
rived in the harbor of Petropaulovsk. While in Kamtchatka he married
a native, and after a stay of eleven months, during which he made the
circuit of the peninsula, he embarked with his wife for Okotsk, on the
Othof July, 1822, on his homeward journey.

After a toilsome return journey he reached Irkutsk in the beginning
of Decombor, and remained there until the 7th of January, when he set
out on an excursion along the Chinese frontier. He was absent a month
on this journey, and on the 11th of February took his departure frona
Irkutsk His homeward route was over the same ground which he had
traversed on his outward journey, and was marked by few adventures.
"Descending the western branch of the Ural Mountains," he says, I
soon found myself again in Europe : the land of malt, the fire-side home,
again had charms for the traveler. The sensations I experienced upon
quittin.' the most favored quarter of the globe, were nothing when com-
pared to the present. Then I thought I was going only to the abode of
misery, vice, and cruelty, while now I knew I had come from that of
humanity, hospitality, and kindness. I looked back to the hills, w' ich
are as it were, the barrier between virtue and vice, but felt, in spite of
it, a desire to return and end my days. And so strong is still that de-
sire that I should not hesitate to bid adieu to poUtics, war, and other
refined pursuits, to enjoy in Central Siberia those comforts which may
be had without fear of foreign or domestic disturbance.

"At length I arrived safely in St. Petersburg, from which I had
been absent exactly three years and three weeks, and to which I had
returned iu infinitely better health than when I left it."

ERIA.

his design and
ivintei* in Kamt-

two weeks ar-
atka he married
ich ho made the

Okotsk, on the

a the beginning
ry, when he set
absent a month
departure from
id which he had
few adventures.
ins," he says, " I
e fire-side home,
xperienced upon
ihing when com-
r to the abode of
me from that of
I the hills, w^'ich
t felt, in spite of
g is still that de-
j, war, and other
iforts which may

om which I had
to which I had

GOLOWNIN'S

CAPTIVITY IN JAPAN.

Captaix "Wassh,! Golownin, while commanding the Russian sloop-
oflwar Diana, lyuig in the harbor of Petropaulovsk, in Kamtchatka, re-
ceived an order from the Russian Minister of Marine, directing him to
make a minute survey of the Southern Kurile Islands and the coast of
Tartary, from latitude 63° 38' north, to Okotsk. lie accordingly sailed
on the 4th of May, 1811, and after a voyage of ten days reached Na-
deshda Straits, between two of the Kurile Islands, where his surveys
were to commence. He had determined, on approaching the northern
shore of the Japanese island of Jesso, to hold no intercourse with the
Japanese, fearful that any such attempt might excite suspicion and dis-
trust. The Chamberlain ResanofT, who was sent to Japan by the
Emperor Alexander in the year 1803, had been obliged to return unsuc-
cessful, and out of a silly revenge for this repulse. Lieutenant Chwostoff,
who commanded the vessel m which ResanofT was taken from Nagasaki
to Okotsk, attacked and destroyed several villages in the Japanese Ku-
lile Islands. This Avanton outrage had provoked the hostility of the
Japanese government, and Captain Golowuin therefore felt the necessity
of caution in approaching the coast.

On the 17th of June his vessel reached the Kurile island of Eetoo-
roop, where he accidentally fell in with some Japanese, to the chief of
whom he explained that his intentions were entirely pacific, as he was
merely looking for a safe harbor where he might procure a supply of
wood and water. To this assurance, the oflicer replied : " The Japanese
can not be entirely tranquil and free from apprehension on the appear-
ance of a Russian ship, for some years ago Russian vessels twice attacked
Japanese villages, and carried off or burnt every thing they found, with-
out sparing the houses, temples, or provisions. Rice, which is brought
from Japan to these islands, forms the principal food of the ihhabitante :
but the first attack having taken place late m autumn, when no vessels
could be sent to sea to bring back a fresh supply for winter, and the
second having followed early in spring, before the usual rice ships could

■mti i i ii

412

GOLOWNIN'S CAPTIVITY IN JAPAN.

arrive, these circumstances, joined to the destruction of their houses,
caused great distress to the Japanese, many of whom fell sacrifices to
hunger and cold." With such awkward interpret»?r8 as the Kunles, it
was not an easy matter for Captain Golownin to vindicate himself
against so serious a charge, but he finally succeeded, as he supposed, in
convincing the Japanese that Chwostoff's proceedings were entirely un-
authorized by the Russian government.

" While I was conversing with the chief on the shore," says Golow-
nin "an old man advanced toward me with demonstrations of thogreat-
est'respect. He was a Toion, or chief of the hairy Kuriles of this part
of the island, of whom there were here about fifty mdividuals of both
sexes- and they seemed to be so oppressed by the Japanese, that they
dared not move in their presence. They all sat crowded together, re-
garding their rulers with looks of terror; and whenever they had oc-
casion to speak to them, they threw thcmhalves upon their knees, with
their open hands pressed closely upon their sides, their heads hanging
downward, and their whole bodies bowed to the ground. Our Kunles
observed the same ceremony when they addressed us. After the latter
had been invited to come on board our vessel, they informed us that the
Japanese persisted in believing that plunder was the only motive which
had induced us to visit their shores; and that the conduct of the crews
of the Company's ships had excited their suspicions. Whenever they
spoke of the violent proceedings of Chwostoff, they usually said : The
Russians attacked us without cause, killed many of our countrymen,
took several prisoners, plundered us, and burned all we possessed ; they
not only carried off our goods, but likewise all our rice and sagi, and
abandoned us to all the misery of hunger.'" , ., . , ,

Previous to leaving the island, a Kurilo named Alcxci, who spoke
gome Russian, came on board, and was retained, at his own request, as
an interpreter. Golownin then sailed to the island of Ooroop, which he
surveyed, and afterward, at Alcxei's recommendation, proceeded to
Kunashir, the twentieth island of the Kurile chain. On the mornmg of
the 5th of July he sailed mto the harbor of Kunashir, where there is a
fortified village, with a Japanese garrison. As they advanced guns
were fired from the port ; from which circumstance he concluded that
the Japanese on the island of Eetooroop had not yet made knowTi to
those of Kunashir his friendly intentions. As ho stood in nearer, how-
ever, the firing ceased. The fortifications were masked with screens of
striped cloth, so that he could perceive neither walls nor palissades. After
coming to anchor at the distance of a mile and a quarter, Golowimi got
into a boat with some men, and rowed toward the shore. They had
approached within a hundred yards, when the firing agam began, and
came near proving filial. They immediately put about and rowed qmckly

back to the vessel. . , .. ^ ri i^-.

" A thought now suddenly came across my mind," observes Golow-
nin. " I imagined that by means of signs I might make myself under-

of their hoases,
fell Bftcrifices to
as the Kuriles, it
indicate himself
I he supposed, in
were entirely un-

jre," says Golow-
ions of the great-
iriles of this part
dividuals of both
panese, that they
rded together, re-
iver they had oc-
their knees, with
Ar beads hanging
nd. Our Kuriles
After the latter
ormed us that the
)nly motive which
iduct of the crews
Whenever they
isually said: 'The
our countrymen,
re possessed ; they
rice and sagi, and

(Vlexci, who spoke
is own request, as
' Ooroop, which he
ion, proceeded to
[)n the morning of
, where there is a
jy advanced, guns
ho concluded that
;t made known to
od in nearer, bow-
ed with screens of
or palissades. After
pter, Golownin got
I shore. They bad
J again began, and
i and rowed quickly

," observes Golow-
lake myself under-

NBOOTIATION WITH CASKS.

413

Stood by the Japanese, For this purpose, on the 0th of July, I caused
a cask to be sawed in two, and set both parts afloat in the water in front
of the town. In the inside of one half of the cask were placed a glass
containing fresh water, a piece of wood, and a handful of rice, to denote
that we were in want of these articles ; the other half contained a few
piastres, a piece of yellow cloth, and some crystal beads and pearls,
meaning thereby to intimate that wo would give them cither money or
other articles in exchange for provisions. Upon this half of the cask wo
fixed a drawing of the harbor, the fortress, and the sloop ; Avhich was
very skillfully executed by the Midshipman Moor. In this drawing tlio
sloop's guns were very distinctly marked, but fixed in the ports with
their tompions in ; but the guns in the garrison were represented as
firing, and the balls flying over the sloop. By this means I wished, if
possible, to make the Japanese sensible of their perfidy. No sooner hud
we set the cask afloat and rowed away, than the Japanese immediately
seized it, and carried it into their fortress. On the following day we
approached within gun-shot of the castle, for the purpose of receiving an
answer ; having, however, previously made every preparation for an en-
gagement ; but the Japanese did not seem to notice us. No one aj)peared
near the works, which were still hung round with cloth."

Captain Golownin called a council of his officers, at which the de-
cision was, that they should not heed the attack of the Japanese, nor
take any further measures for communication with them. As, however,
both water and provisions were needed, a boat M-as sent to the mouth
of a creek for a supply of the former, while Lieutenant Rikord crossed
the bay in another boat, to a fishing village which they had observed.
The place was deserted, but Rikord carried off some wood, rice, and
dried fish, and left behind him various European articles, which Alexei
declared to be far more valuable than what he carried away. In the
afternoon curiosity induced Golownin to go ashore to try to discover
the plans of the Japanese, and he was highly pleased to observe that all
the articles which Lieutenant Rikord had left were removed. " On the
8th of July," he continues, " we observed a cask floating before the
town. I immediately weighed anchor in order to take it up. We found
that it contained a little box wrapped up in several pieces of oil-cIoth.
The box contained three papers ; one of which was a Japanese loiter,
which we could not read, and the other two were drawings. Both
these sketches represented the harbor, the castle, our sloop, the cask
with a boat rowing toward it, and the rising sun, but with this difference,
that in one the guns of the castle were firing, while in the other the
muzzles of the cannon were turned backward. We were a long time
occupied in considering these hieroglyphics, and each explained them
after his own way ; but this will not be thought wonderful, as the same
thing frequently happens among better scholars. We all, however,
agreed that the Japanese declined holding intercourse with us."

The next day a boat containing several Japanese officers and a Kurile

414

OOLOWNIN'S CAPTIVITY IN JAPAN.

interpreter, rowed toward the vessel. Tlio conforenoe began on their
side, Willi an apology for having fired upon the KiisHiaiis when tliey first
attempted to land. To justify this proceeding, they declared that their
distrust had been excited in consequence of an outrage committed upon
them some years before, by the crews of two Kussiun vessels, who had
at first landed under pretense of the same motives. They, Iiowever,
perceived the difference between Golownin's conduct and that of tKoir
fonner visitors ; every suspicion had now vanished, and they declared
their readiness to do all they could to servo liim. On the 10th the
requisite amount of water was on board, and Golownin was ready to sail,
when he received an invitation to come on shore. He thought it his
duty to comply, in order to acquaint the Japanese that the outrage of
Cliwostoff was entirely disowned by the Russian Government. lie
therefore landed, accompanied only by Alexei, the interpreter, and was
met by an officer with whom he conversed for some time. This person
promised to furnish the vessel with more provisions, but wished Golow-
nin first to consult with the governor. In the evening a largo number
of fresh fish were sent on board, and the invitation to visit the governor
renewed.

Golownin gives the following account of what happened on this visit :
"Next morning, July the 11th, at eight o'clock, I landed with the
above-named officers, the Kurilo Alexei, and four seamen. So fully was
I persuaded that wo stood on a friendly footing with the Japanese, that
I had not ordered the men to arm themselves. Tlio officers, three in
number, including myself, had each a sword, in addition to M'hich Mr.
Chk'bnikoff brought with him a pocket-pistol, to use as a signal, in case
of fog. On entering the castle gate, I was astonished at the number of
men I saw assembled there. Of soldiers alone, I observed from three to
four hundred, armed with muskets, bows and arrows, and spears, sitting
in a circle, in an open space to the right of the gate ; on the left a
countless multitude of Kuriles surrounded a tent of striped cotton cloth,
erected about thirty paces from the gate. This small, insignificant place,
seemed incapable of containing so many men, and I concluded that they
nuist have beer, collected from all the neighboring garrisons since we
appeared in the harbor.

" While the conference was going on, Mr. Moor had observed that
naked sabers had been distributed among the soldiers who were sitting
in the open space. He immediately mentioned this to me ; but I sup-
posed that a saber or two might have been accidentally out of the
sheaths ; and I asked him whether he had not made a mistake, as the
Japanese always carry swords, and could at present have no reason for
drawing them. This remark appeared to satisfy him ; but circumstances
soon occurred which roused all our suspicion, and convinced us that some
mischief was intended against us. The lieutenant-governor having with-
drawn for a short time, as if to make some arrangement, returned, and
whispered to the governor, who immediately rose up to go away. We

began on their
s when they first
Glared that their

committed upon
vessels, who had

They, however,
md that of their
nd they declared
On the 10th the
was ready to sail,
[e thought it his
it the outrage of
tovcmmont. He
erprcter, and was
irao. This person
ut wished Golow-
»■ a largo number |
visit the governor |

cncd on this visit :
[ landed with the
aon. So fully was
the Japanese, that
a officers, three in
ition to which Mr.
iS a signal, in case
[ at the number of
srved from three to

and spears, sitting
ate ; on the left a
triped cotton cloth,
, insignificant place,
oncludcd that they

garrisons since we

had observed that
rs who were sitting
to me ; but I sup-
lentally out of the
e a mistake, as the
have no reason for
I ; but circumstances
ivinced us that some
jvemor having Avith-
ment, returned, and
pto go away. We

OOLOWNIN MADE PRI80NKB.

416

got up also to take our leave ; and I repeated my question respecting
the price of provisions, and also asked whether he intended to sup|)ly us
with any ? On iieariiig this ho sat down, invited us to do the same,
and, though it was early in the day, ordered dinner to be served up.

"We accepted his invitation, and waited with impatience to see what
woiild next occur, as it now appeared we were caught in a snare from
which it would be difficult to escape. But the kind behavior of the
Japanese, and their assurances that we had nothing to fear, again tran-
quillized us, and banished any suspicion of their treachery. Tliey en-
tertained us with rice, iish in a green sauce, and other savory dishes, the
ingredients composing which wo did not know. They also gave us
sagi. After we had dined, the governor was again about to M'ithdraw.
I now declared that we could wait no longer, but must return imme-
diately on board.

" The governor, who had luthorto conversed in a mild and gentle
tone, now altered his manner. lie sjwke loudly, and with warmth ;
frequently mentioned Resanoto (llesanoff), and Nicola-Sandrejotsch
(Nicolai Alexandroivitsch, meaning Chwostoff, the Captain of the (Com-
pany's ship), and struck liis hand several times on his saber. In this
manner he made a long speech, of which the terrified Alexei interpreted
to us only the following sentence : — ' The governor says that if he lets a
single one of us out of the castle his own bowels will be ripped up.' This
wns brief and decisive I We instantly made all the haste we could to
escape. The Japanese did not venture to close upon us, but set up a
loud cry, and threw oars and liir'jce pieces of wood at us, to knock tis
down. On our reaching the gate they fired several times on us, but
without eflfect, though one of the balls whistled past the head of Mr.
Chlebnikoff. We now found that they had succeeded in detaining Mr.
Moor, the seaman Makaroff, and our Kurilo Alexei, in the castle. We
ran, however, to our landing-place ; but on arriving there, perceived
with dismay that the tide had ebbed above five fathoms, and left the
strand quite dry. As the Japanese saw that it was impossible for us to
get the boat afloat, and had previously assured themselves that it con-
tained no arms, they gained confidence, advanced upon us with drawn
sabers, which they held in both hands, muskets and spears, and sur-
rounded us. I cast a look upon the boat, and said to myself: 'It must
be so — our last refuge is lost — our fate is inevitable !' I surrendered.
The Japanese seized me by the arms, and conducted me to the castle,
into which my companions were also conveyed.

" We were conducted into the same tent in which we had hold the
conference, but neither of the commanders with whom we liad com-
municated were now there. The first thing done was to tie our hands
behind our backs, and conduct us into an extensive but low building,
which resembled a barrack, and which was situated opposite to the tent
in the direction of the shore. Here we were all, except Makaroff— whom
we had not seen since our separation — placed on our knees, and bound

416

OOLOWNIN'S CAPTIVITY IN JAPAN.

in the crudest niannor, with cords nl>out tlic thiciviicss of a finger: and
08 tliotigli tliis were not enough, another binding with Hniuller cords fol-
lowed, which was still more painful. The Japanese are exceedingly ex-
pert at thiii work ; and it would appear that they conform to some pre-
cise regulation in binding their prisoners, for wo were all tied exactly in
thu same manner. There were tho same number of knots and noo: es,
and all ut ccptal distances, on the cords with which each of us was bound.
There were loops round our breasts and necks; our elbowi almost
touched each other, and our liunds were firmly bound together : from
these fastenings proceeded a long cord, the end of which was held by a
Japanese, and wliich on tho slightest attempt to escape required only to
be drawn to make the elbows come in cimtoct, with the greatest ])ain,
and to tighten the noose about the neck to such a degree as almost to
jH'oduce strangulation. Besides all this, they tied our legs in two places,
above tho knees and above the ankles : they then passed ropes from our
necks over tho cross-beams of the building, and drew them bo tight that
we found it impossible to move. Their next oiwration was searcliing
our pockets, out of which they took every thing, and then proceeded
very tranquilly to smoke tobacco."

After a delay of an hour, the Japanese removed tho cords from tho
ankles of their captives, and led them into the country. On ascending
a hill they beheld the Diana under sail. This sight plunged them into
despair, and they gave up all hope of ever seeing their native country
again. After walking some distance, they heard a cannonade. They
could easily distinguish the firing of the sloop from that of the castle ;
but the strong garrison of the Japanese, and the thick earthen wall
which formed their fortification, afforded the Russians no reason to ex-
pect any fortunate result from the contest.

To resume Golownin's narrative : " I was so tightly bound, particularly
about the neck, that, before we had traveled six or seven versts, I could
scarcely breathe. My companions told me that my face was swollen and
discolored. I was almost blind, and could not speak without the great-
est difficulty. We made signs to the Japanese, and requested them,
through the interpretation of Alexei, to loosen the cord a little, but the
cannonade so frightened them, that they paid no attention to our re-
monstrances ; they only urged us to move fSister, and kept constantly
looking behind them. Life now appeared a heavy burden to me, and
I resolvei^, in case wo should pass a river, to make a sudden spring into
the water, and thus terminate a painful existence. I soon saw, however,
that it would not be easy to execute this purpose, as the Japanese al-
ways held us fast by the arms when we had occasion to cross even a
little brook. I fell at length senseless on the groimd ; when I recov-
ered, I found some persons sprinkling me with water, and the blood
flowing from my mouth and nose. My companions. Moor and ' Chlubni-
koff, were in deep distress, and imploring some persons to loosen the
oords with which I was bound. They at last, with the greatest difii-

■HM

iiMil

jf ft finger: nnil
miuller conls fol-
I exceedingly cx-
rni to some prc-
,11 tied exactly in
lots and nooieu,
of U8 was bound.
ir elbowfi almost
I together: from
L!h was held by a
required only to
Lhe greatest i)ain,
gree as almost td
['gs in two places,
id ropes from our
hem so tight that
ion was searching
i then proceeded

he cords from the
•y. On ascending
plunged them into
eir native country
cannonade. They
that of the castle ;
hick earthen wall
US no reason to ex-
bound, particularly
vcn versts, I could
tse was swollen and
without the great-
d requested them,
»rd a little, but the
attention to our re-
nd kept constantly

burden to me, and
sudden spring into
soon saw, however,
, as the Japanese al-
iion to cross even a
nid; when I recov-
iter, and the blood

Moor and ' Chlebni-
raons to loosen the
th the greatest diffi-

m a tMi jr i ir i mr ■ nmmm miim>»>itmlmmmtmmim

IMl

'Ci;,

JvM

■T Yi

TREATMENT OP THE CAPTIVES.

417

culty, prevailed on them to comply. I then found myself much eased
I and was soon able to make an effort to proceed ^" i-asea,

, "After a journey of about ten versts, we arrived at a small villa-e

situated on the traits which divide the island of Kunashier from M^tl'
ma. We were conducted into a house, where boiled rice was oZed
us, but we felt no desire to partake of food of any kind. On our de
^ chnmg to cat, we were taken into another apartment, in which we wore
laid down close to the walls, so as not to touch each other. The ropes

wall for that purpose. Our boots were puUed off, and our legs tied as
before m two places: having secured us in this way, our guards sat
down m the middle of the room round a chafing-dish, L drafk tea a fd
smoked. Any man might have slept tranquilly beside lions, bound as
fa t as we were Jbut it would seem that our guards did not think the-^
selves secure. The cords with which we werl tied were inspected eve^
quarter of an hour. * ^i^u every

„n/ ^* ^^A f^L''^''' of twilight, our guards began to bestir themselves,
and seemed to be preparing for a journey. About midnight, a broad
plank was brought m, to the four comers of which ropes wefe attached

of whTw ^'T r"'^ "' '\^ *^P' '""^ «^"°^ ^'•^^^ * P«I«' the ends
nLdJf T f °^ "'"'' shoulders; and thus the whole was sus-

pended. I was placed upon this plank, and immediately borne away
We now concluded that we were to be separated forever, and tharwci
could entertam no hope of seeing each other again. Our fareweU w^
like the partmg of friends at the hour of death

"The saUors wept aloud as they bade me adieu, and my heart was
wrung on leaving them. I was conveyed to the sea-side, and placed ta
a large boat, with a mat beneath me. In a few moments, Mr. Moor was
likewise brought to the shore in the same way as I had been, and w^
placed m the boat beside me. This was indeed an unexpected halT
ness. I was so overjoyed, that for a few moments I experienced a dim-
mution of my tonnent. Moor was soon foHowed by Mr. Chlebnikoff,
and the sailors Simanoff and WassUjeff ; the rest were placed in another
Doat. A soldier under arms was stationed between each of us We
were then covered over with mats, and the boats were rowed from the

At break of day, on the 12th of July, the captives were landed near
8 little village, on the coast of the island of Matsmai or Jesso. Here
they were removed mto other boats, which were drawn with ropes alonir
the shore ma south-easterly direction. In this way they were dragged
the whole of that day and the following night. There was no haltSg,
except at certain fixed places, where the men, who were employed hi
the dragging, and who came from the neighboring villages, wore re-
lieved. At one of the villages, a venerable, gray-haired man, begged
permu ^on of the guards to furnish the Russians with breakfiist. 'Siis
was granted, and the old man stood near them during the repast, to see
. 27

T-

418

GOLOWNIN'S CAPTIVITY

that they wanted nothing, the expression of his --^^^^^^^

• /i>;« ,.hv Thev were kept bo severely bound that then vnsts
:^;:"?v ed w'ih i SuTsores, and one of the seamen was seized w.th
ZJZXleoi^S-t the nose. At night they lay n> the boats, stUl
bound ad were frequently wet to the skin by showers of ran..

Ifter fivl days of this pauiful travel, tLoy were put on shore, taeir
foet^nUed and the cords about their knees loosened so t -t tlu,- co^^^^
.valk Their iourney thenceforth was entirely by land. The J apanese
o^tda or commander of the district," says Golownu,, "look a con-
sMe tTme to determine on the order of our procession ; however he
a^tWh deposed of us in the follo^^nng manner: two Japanese from
ttc nethSng village proceeded first, walking side by side and carry-
W tav s of r!d wood,^'ery handsomely carved : their busmess was to
Sfecrour course. The'se were relieved, on entering the "-t ^l.^^^^^^^
bv two new guides, carrying staves of the same description The gmdes
t'ee folded by three Lfiers. Kext came my turn -th -oM^^^^^^^^
one side and on the other an attendant, who, with a twig, kept the
g"„:ts and flies from fixing upon me. ^^^f ^ ^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^
hold totrether the ends of the ropes with which I was bound. We yvero
foUowedty" party of Kuriles, carrying my litter -and after them came
Another pa^desLd to relieve the others when faljguc^ Next --
Mr. Moor, guarded in the same manner as I was ; »f ^J^^'^J^;*^^^^^^^
likoif- then the saUors, one following another; and last of all Alexei.
The whole retinue w..8 closed by three soldiers, and a number of Japan-
TeVudKurle servants, carrying provisions, and the baggage of our es-
cort The party must have amounted to between one hundred and fifty
and two hu^dfed men. Each individual had awooden tablet suspended
fromhS girdle, on which was an inscription, stating with which of us he
wao stationed and what were the duties of his office.

'XinrihTwholc jouniey, the Japanese uniformly observed the
«ame regSons. At daybreak we prepared for our departure, break-
S ri ten set out. 'our conductors frequently stopped in villages
to rest, or to drink tea and smoke tobacco. At noon we dmed Hav-
„g rested for one hour after dinner, we again proceeded, and an hour or
two before sunset wo halted for the night, usually m -^ "^gf j;^;/^
with a small garrison. These night-quarters, when we first entered, were
; n rThung round with striped cotton cloth. We were always con-
ducted to a neat house, and placed altogether in one apartment, where
our guards never failed to fLen us to iron hooks which were fixed into

*^''^When we arrived at the station where we were to pass the night
we were always conducted to the front of the house belonging to the
person possessing the highest authority in the place; wo were there
seated on bench^es cover! d with mats, and he came out to mspect us.
We were then taken to the house allotted for our lodging ; on en «nng
Sch our boots and stockmgs were taken off, and our feet bathed with

«JpBSSN^^^*^S^iSfrt.^ vts^iiii'itaJ^-^S^iS®^

Mtit^jfijii^SRMW^'

tenanco plainly
hat their wrists
ivas seized with
1 the boats, still
af rahi.

i on shore, their
that they could
" The Japanese
in, "tookacon-
an ; however, ho

Japanese from
■ side, and carry-
r business was to
:he next district,
ion. The guides
with a soldier on
a twig, kept the
a conductor, who
•ound. We were

1 after them camo
;ucd. Next came
er him Mr. Chleb-
last of all Alexei.
number of Japan-
laggagc of our es-
hundred and fifty
1 tablet suspended
ith which of us he

rmly observed the
departure, break-
stopped in villages
n we dined. Hav-
ed, and an hour or
a village furnished
3 first entered, were
e were always con-
) apartment, where
lich were fixed into

e to pass the night,
e belonging to the
CO ; we were there
e out to inspect us.
dging; on entering
•ur feet bathed with

JAPANESE KINDNESS AND CURIOSITY.

419

warm water, in which there was a solution of salt. Wo were regularly
provided with meals three times a-day ; viz., breakfast in the morning
before we set out on our journey, dinner about noon, and supper in the
evening, in our night-quarters. There was, however, little variety in our
diet ; it consisted usually of boiled rice instead of bread, two pieces of
pickled radish for seasoning, broth made of radishes or various wild roots
and herbs, a kind of maccaroni, and a piece of broiled or boiled fish.

" In every village, on our arrival and departure, we were surrounded
with crowds of both sexes, young and old, who were drawn together by
curiosity to see us ; and yet on these occasions wo never experienced the
slightest insult or oifense. All, particularly the women, contemplated
us with an air of pity and compassion. If wo asked for drink to quench
our thirst, they were emulous to supply us. Many solicited permission
of our guards to entertain us, and on their request being granted, brought
us sagi, comfits, fruits, or other delicacies. On one occasion, the chief
of a village treated ns with some very good tea with sugar. Tliey often
inquired respecting an European nation called Orando, and a country to
which they gave the name of Kabo. "We assured them that we knew
of no such people or countries in Europe ; upon which they expressed
surprise, and testified distrust at our answer. Sometime after we learned
that the Japanese called the Dutch, Orando, and the Cape of Good
Hope, Kabo."

During all this time they remained bound, until their flesh became so
chafed that the Japanese guards finally called in a physician who applied
plasters to the wounds. They refused to allow them liberty, from fear
that they would commit suicide. They even held the pipes which the
prisoners smoked, lest they should attempt to injure themselves with the
stems ; but afterward, having fitted enormous mouth-pieces to them, as
a precautionary measure, allowed the Russians to take them in their own
hands. Captain Golownin and the officers were constantly applied to by
the natives to write some lines for them as curious souvenirs. The Ja-
panese considered a specimen of Russian writing as great a curiosity as
an inscription in Japanese would be looked upon in Europe, and they
showed a fan upon which v> ere inscribed four lines of a popular Russian
song, signed by a person named Babikoff, who, it appeared, had visited
Japan along with Laxman. Though these lines must have been written
twenty years before, yet the fan was as clean and fresh as if perfectly
new. The owner kept it wrapped up in a sheet of paper, and set so
much value upon it, that he would scarcely suffer it to be opened.

After a journey of nearly four weeks, the prisoners at last, on the 7th
of August, saw from an eminence the city and harbor of Hakodadi*

• The port of Hakodadi, in the BtraitB of Sanfjar, at the southern extromity of the
island of Jesao, is one of tho ports opened to the vessels of the United States by the treaty
concluded at Yoko-hama by Commodore Perry in 1864. The harbor is safe and coramo-
dioua, and has already become a favorite place of resort for American whalers, for the
purpose of refitting and procuring supplies. Captain Rolownin spoils tlie name *' Chako-
dade," wliich is probably the Russian mode of representing the same sounds. ■ \' '

420

OOLOWNIN'S CAPTIVITY

IN JAPAN.

iVZu —

spread out Leforo tl... The next ^, ji^S-t"^;^:;
tL for their formal -^--^^^^^^^^^ As the proce.

and armed themse vcs with ««^t« f ^^^^ „f «on9 came out to Bee
sion approached th^g'^^^^Xt X-BTyBGolownin, " where the
them. "We at length ^r.^^'^^^^^ tWourLards had great difficulty
concourse of people wa., bo »»"™«"«^*^;'J^^^^^^^^ ?he distance of half a
iu clearing a passage for us. Havmg procee ^^ ^^^ j.ft,

verst along a narrow ^^-^^^^.^ Her^^^^^^ rising ground, we first
which led us into the open fi^^^^;- . "f ^J ^f^ ^^ prison. Thesight filled
beheld the building that was destmed to ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^

us with horror We «^«--?,^f,^^;^^^^^^^^ Ahigh wooden

enabled us to form '^ "^^^f ^'^Xana well provided with chevaux^-
inclosure or fence of great «/ ^"S'^^^"^"^^^^ wooden fence was sur-

^ze, concealed the body of *^«X.tTower which on this occasion was
Lnded by an earthen waUBo^ew^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^^^.^

hung with Btnped cloth. ^^^^^ ^^^^^^hc path leading to our prison,
which severdofficersweresea^^dA^ougtbe^ they stood at the dis-

soldiers were stationed m ^"^^ "^^^^ ^ were armed in various ways:
tance of two fethoms fr^™^-?^,;^:^^^^^ with spears, etc.

some with muskets, Bome with ^^y^^"^ '^"^^^^J ^^laing. On arriving
A party of officers were s ationed m ^^^^ ;\ ;*^^^^^^ ^ I, ^f our escort
at L gate. w« were received by an <>^^^l^^J^^^^,,^ j^^o a sort of
hadpreviouslybe^nhandea^^^^^^^

\ h:»%t-rs£cror^^^^^^^

i *'*g®'- . „ «,. lobbv in the bnUding, where my boots

«I was led into a passage o^^)«^JJy ^" y"^^ bound removed. I was

were drawn off. and the ^-^P V^^^J^"'^ Xh w^^ divided from the
1 then directed to enter a small «P^^™ "* J^^^^ ^, i„ quest of Mr.

i passage by wooden p^issades^ Jeat w^ m7^™*y to find that I could
1 Moo^ and Schkajeff ; but how gr at was^mj ^.^^y ^^

j neither see nor hear tnem. x ^ . , .. j ^^^y tije door of

closed the door of my ^f rt'nen* ^nd q«;^^f ^ j^„^^ The thought
which they likewise closed after t^«™- J/^^ ^robtbly forever, com-
of being separated from my -mp-K,- a^^^^ P-b X ^^^^^ ^^^^
plctely overpowered me, and, m a paroxy»ut r

upon the ground. ♦„* „ «f inaftnribilitv. At length, raifi-

«I remained for some tune m a f ^« ^'^•""^tkoned me lo ap-
ing my eyes, I observed at tbe -n^^ LZxtlig his hand through
proachhim. I ''«'"P^*«^, ^''^ ^.'f/,^J i^tle sweet cakes; at the same

[9 made prepara-
on new clothes,

As the proces-
came out to see
nin, " where the
i great difficulty
listanco of half a
reet on our left,
ground, we first

The sight filled
; that sufficiently

A high wooden
. with chevaux-de-
en fence was sur-
this occasion was
near the gate, in
ding to our prison,
f stood at the dis-
l in various ways :
rs with spears, etc.
ling. On arriving
a list of our escort
cted into a sort of
r-stirring domicile
■k building, resem-
[■ strong thick spars
a exactly Uke bird-

ig, where my boots
id removed. I was
B divided from the
L me in quest of Mr.
to find that I could
,ut saying a word,
lobby, the door of
ilone. The thonght
bably forever, com-
pair, I threw myself

lity. At length, rais-
beckoned me to ap-
ing his hand through
cakes; at the same
;ly, as a punishment
noment I loathed the
the cakes, lest refusal

A JAPANESE PRISON,

421

might give ofTpnse to my kind visitor. His conntonance now brightened
up, and ho lofl the window, with a promise to bring me more at a future
tune. I thanked him as well as I was able, and was greatly astonished
that this man (who from his dress apparently belonged to the very
lowest class) should be so far actuated by benevolence, as to hazartl
his own safety for the sake of convoying comfort to an unfortunate
stranger.

"My guards now brought me some food; but I felt not the least in-
clination to partake of it, and sent it all away. In this stato I reinainod
until evening. I sometimes threw myself on the floor, or upon a bench
and occasionally walked about the apartment, meditating on the means
of cflTectmg my escape. I attentively inspected the construction of my
cage. It was six feet in length and breadth, and about eight feet in
height. It Was divided from the lobby by wooden palissades of tolerable
thickness, and the door was fastened by a lock. On one side, new the
door, was a small recess fitted up as a water-closet. There were two
windows, both secured extemaUy by strong wooden gratings, and in the
inside furnished with paper screens, which I could open and shut at
pleasure. One window faced the waU of a building about two feet dis-
tant from that in which I was confined, and the other looked to the
southern side of the fence which surrounded our prison. From this
window I had a view of the neighboring hills and fields, part of the
straits of Sangar, and the opposite coast. In the interior of the chamber
stood a wooden bench, which, however, Avas so small, that I could not
stretch myself upon it ; and throe or four mats lay in one corner on the
floor. The place contained no other furniture."

After being confined for a day or two, Golownin was allowed to
select one of the sailors for a companion. He chose Malcarofl", who, on
being conducted to him, stated that the other prisoners were confined
in small cages, perfectly dark, and with such low entrances that they
were obliged to crawl m on their hands and knees. Two dpys after-
ward, they were all taken before the governor of the city, by whom
they were closely questioned, but received no intimation as to their
future fate. They were then conducted back again to their cages, where
they remamcd eighteen days before they were again summoned. Their
condition was a little improved, inasmuch as they were allowed to speak
to each other, ajpartition between the cages having been removed,
Golownin observes : " The chief trouble we experienced from both officers
and soldiers, who did duty as guards, arose from their requests to write
on their fims and pieces of paper ; but as they always solicited the favor
with great courtesy, and invariably returned thanks with very humble
reverences, we never refused. Some, however, imposed so far on our
complaisance as to bring us ten or twenty fans at a time. These tedious
labors fell chiefly on Messrs. Moor and Chlebnikoff", as their hand-writ-
ing was very fine. The former wrote more than seventy sheets of paper
for one of the soldiers ; and from their unceasing applications we at

422

ooLO'v. ::

IN'S CAPTIVITY IN JAPAN.

leiifith concluded that they must have sold these nianuscnpts as articles
wortliv of beiiiK preserved in the cabinets of the curious. This task was
the more laborious, as the officers were always desired to give a transla-
tion of what was written. When we translated any thing ior them, they
carried it to Mr. Chlebnikoff, to compare his translation with ours; and
if he wrote any thing, they brought it for the same reason to us."

On the 25th of August the deputy-governor, Otachi-Koeki, came to

visit them, foUowed by a numerous retinue. Mats were spread m front

ofthe cages, and Golownin was thmiderstruck at seeing his own chest

of clothing, the portmanteaus of Moor and Chlebnikoft and the bmidles

ofthe sailors, deposited thereupon. His first thought was that the

sloop had been wrecked, but the Japanese soon mformed him that the

articles had been sent ashore at Kunashir. ♦' This day," he says, was

doubly memorable to me: first, on accomit ofthe great surprise and

alarm which the appearance of our baggage occasioned ; and secondly,

because the want of paper and ink, or any thing by which I could make

notes, induced me to fall on the following singular method of keeping a

journal. When any thing happened that was agreeable to lis, I tied a

knot on a white thread, which I drew out of the fnll of my shirt : when

any unpleasant event occurred, I made a memorandum of it by tyuig a

knot on a thread of black silk, taken out of my neck-handkerchief. With

regard to other circumstances which, though remarkable, had occasioned

us neither joy nor sorrow, I recorded them «"/ ^^'^^^^ ^^ SJ^^" ^f 4

which I abstracted from the Iming of my uniform coat. Often did 1

count over these knots, and recaU to my mind the events they ser^-ed

** Four'^days afterward they were again conducted before the gover-
nor, and were surprised by the reception of a letter from Lieutenant
Rikord, who informed them that he intended sailing to Okotsk, and r^
turning the next summer with a stronger force. The Japanese desured
Golownin to translate this letter, which he did in a cautious manner,
softening the threatening exprc--... as which it contained After they
were taken back to their cages, they noticed that the officers and sol-
diers were more kind and friendly. They were allowed to have some
articles of clothing from their tvuuks, and were furnished with a tub ol
warm water, that they might wash themselves. Golownm thus describes
the latter proceeding: "The tub was extremely large, and the water
was heated by means of a copper pipe, communicatmg with a kmd ol
stove I washed first, and the rest were obliged to make use ot the
same water. This was not a Uttle annoying. We looked upon such
treatment as below what was duo even to common crmnnals. We were,
however, soon set at ease on this particular ; for, to our great astonish-
ment, after we had all finished washing, some of the imperial soldiers,
by whom we were guarded, very contentedly followed our example, and
washed themselves in the same water. These soldiers, as I have betore
observed, are held in the utmost respect iu Japan. It is, theretore,

■%-. ..

;cript9 a8 articles
(. This task was
to give a transla-
ig for them, they
1 with ours; and
son to us."
i-Koeki, came to
re spread in front
ng hia own chest
; and the bundles
5ht was that the
mod him that the
y" ho says, " was
reat surprise and
ed ; and secondly,
hich I could make
thod of keeping a
ible to us, I tied a
of my shirt: when
m of it by tymg a
landkerchief. With
ble, had occasioned
iread of green silk,
coat. Oilen did I
events they 8er\'ed

, before the gover-
,er from Lieutenant
; to Okotsk, and re-
[e Japanese desired
a cautious manner,
tained. After they
the officers and sol-
)wed to have some
lished with a tub of
)wnin thus describes
arge, and the water
iting with a kind of
to make use of the
e looked upon such
sriminals. We were,
. our great astonish-
ic imperial soldiers,
od our example, and
tors, as I have before
■m. It is, therefore,

REMOVAL TO MAT8MAI.

428

evident, that the Japanese entertain no disgust or horror of Christians ;
and do not, like other Asiatics, regard them as unclean.

" On tlio 6tli of September, we were conducted to the governor of
Ilakodadi, for the last time. We sat a long time in the court-yard,
drinking tea and smoking tobacco. The interpreter, Kumaddschero,
went continually backward and forward, asking us Russian words, which
he wrote down. We were at length conducted into the hall. Here one
of the officers, a gray-haired man, apparently about seventy years of ago,
who in Laxman's time had been employed in compiling a Russian dic-
tionary, unrolled a large sheet of paper, filled with Japanese characters,
which he began to read in a style very much resembling singing. Wo
were totally unable to comprehend the first ten or twenty words ; but
we at length discovered that he fancied he was reading Russian, and
from some of the words we conjectured that the paper contained an ac-
count of our affiiir, translated into Russian. Wo could not refrain from
laughing, and told the Japanese that we understood only a few words
here and there : upon which they all joined in the laugh, not excepting
the translator, who laid the paper aside. The governor then took leave
of us, and we left the castle."

Toward the end of September they ascertained from the soldiers
that they were to be taken to the city of Matsmai, at the western ex-
tremity of the Straits of Sangar. About the same time Simanoff, one
of the sailors, obtained possession of a large knife, which Golownin ad-
vised him to preserve very carefully, in order to funiish them with a
means of escape, if an opportunity should present itself. The journey
to Matsmai occupied four days, and on the afternoon of the 30th of
September, *' wo halted," says the narrative, " in a village about three
versts distant from the city, Avhere we were met by a party of soldiers
and a vast crowd of people. We remained there about half an hour,
during which time our conductors put on their best clothes, and we
then entered the city with the same formalities as had been observed at
Hakodadi: the number of spectators was, however, considerably
greater, owing to the vast population of the city. Having proceeded
through the town, to the distance of about four or five versts along the
shore, we entered a largo open space, crowded with men, who stood
behind ropes, which had been fixed for the accommodation of the pro-
cession. Thence we ascended a tolerably high hill, passed along the
rampart which encompassed the castle, and entered a court-yard, sur-
3-ounded by a high wooden fence, entirely new. Here we met a detach-
ment of soldiers in their military uniforms. From this court-yard a little
door led through another fence, higher than the preceding one. We
now entered a dark edifice like a barn. Mr. Moor, Mr. Chlebnikoffj
and myself, were shut up together in a cage ; the sailors and Alexei were
confined in another.

" The wliole structure must have occasioned the Japanese govern-
ment no inconsiderable cost. Wo could rot believe that so much labor

424

OOLOWNIN'S CAPTIVITY IN JAPAN.

and expense would have been incurred l»ad it been intended to flct us
Boon at liberty. The strength and the plan of this prison appeared to
denote that it was to be our dwelling-place during tho remainder of our
existence. This idea distressed us not a little. We sat long in j.rofound
silence, gazing at each other, and giving ourselves up for lost. A serv-
ant at length brought in our supper, which consisted of boiled rue, a
piece of fish, and a few beans with syrup."

Two days aaerward they were taken before the bunyo, or governor,
who interrogated them for some time concerning their names, rank,
liimilies, and relations. After they had retired, he announced his in-
tention of presenting theiu with dresses, which were afterward made by
a Japanese taUor. Their food was also better than it had been in Ila-
kodadi. Accordmg to the Japanese custom, stewed rice and pickled
radishes served them instead of bread and seasoning. They were be-
sides frequently furnished with good fresh and salt fish, boiled or fried;
soups, in which there were various wUd herbs or maccaroni ; and some-
times there WiW prepared for them a kind of Russian soup or sauce,
made with white fish and muscle broth. The fish were fried m od of
poppies, and were seasoned with grated radish and soy.

For upward of a month after their arrival they were taken before the
bunyo every day, regularly, and questioned for many hours in succession.
Captain Golownin's account of this propensity of the Japanese is very
curious. "The number of questions which the bunyo asked," ho says,
" was incalculable. If he put one interrogatory concerning any circum-
stances connected with our case, he asked fifty which were unimportant,
and many which were ludicrous. Tliis so puzzled and tormented us,
that wo sometimes made very irritable replies. On one occasion, we
stated plainly, that we had rather they would put an end to our exist-
ence at once than torture us in the way they did. When we were ca^
turcd, I had about mo ten or twelve keys belonging to my desk and
drawers and to boxes containing tho astronomical instruments used on
board the ship. I'ho bunyo Avished to be informed of the contents of
every drawer and every box. When I pointed to my shirt, and told
him that my drawers contained such things as those, he asked me how
many I had. I repUed that I did not know ; and that it was my serv-
ant's business to keep that reckoning. Upon this he immediately in-
quired how many servants I had, and what were their names and ages.
I lof t all patience, and asked why I was teased with such questions, and
what use there could be in answering them since my property was not
with me. The governor then, with great mildness, observed that he
hoped we were not oflfended by his curiosity ; that he did not intend to
force any answers from us, but merely questioned us like a friend.

" To enable the reader to form some notion of the questions which
the Japanese put to us, and the trouble it cost us to explain the various
mutteva which excited their curiosity, I may hercsubjoin a few of their
interrogatories, scarcely, however, tho hundredth part of the frivolous

irr till I u

cntled to set »i9
son appeared to '
emaimlcr of our
ong in i)rofound
,r lost. A Herv-
jf boiled rije, a

yo, or governor,
cir names, rank,
inounced his m-
Lerward made by
had been in Ila-
rico and pickled
They were be-
I, boiled or fried ;
laroni; andsorae-
an floup or sauce,
ro fried in oil of

u taken before the ,

ours in succession. .

Japanese is very j

asked," he says, i
3ming any circum- ]
[were unhnportant, j
tnd tormented ns, :

1 one occ4imon, we
t end to our cxist-
7hcn we were cap-

g to my desk and I
Btruments used on
of the contents of
tny shirt, and told
, he asked me how
lat it was my serv-
le immediately in-
r names and ages,
such questions, and
r property was not
, observed that he
e did not intend to
like a friend,
he questions which
explain the various
lyoin a few of their
Lrt of the frivolous

THE UARTYRDOU OP QUKSTIONS.

425

inquiries which tlicy were accustomed to make in the course of one day.
It must, moreover, be considered that wo had to make ourselves tmder-
gtood to them by means of tljc halt-wild Kurile, wiio knew scarcely any
thing of the subjects on which M'o conversed, and who was acipiainted
with no words in the Kurilo language to express many of the terms
which wo made use of. The Japanese interrogated us without any kind
of regularity, and often jumped from one subject to another. The fol-
lowing is a specimen of one of our examinations :

** What kind of dress does the Emperor of Russia wear — what does
ho wear on his head — what kind of birds arc found in the neighborhood
of St. Petersburg — how many times do the Russians go to church in
one day — what would bo the price ui Russia of the clothes wo were then
wearing — how many pijces of cannon are planted round the im|ierial
palace — what wool is made uso of in Europe for manufacturing cloth —
what quadrupeds, birds, and fish are eaten in Russia — in what manner
do the Russians cat — what sort of dresses do the ladies wear — what kind
of horse does the Emperor usually ride — who accompanies him when he
goes abroad — are the Russians partial to the Dutch — how many foreign-
ers are there in Russia — what are the chief articles of tra<Ie in St.
Petersburg — what are the dimensions in length, breadth, and height,
of the imperial palace — how many windows does it contain — how many
festivals do the Russians observe in the course of the year — do the Rus-
sians wear silk clothes — at what time of life do the Russian women begin
and ceaae to bear children ? Tlioy besides inquired the names of the
Emperor, and of all the branches of the imperial family; the names of
the governors-general of Siberia and Irkutzk, and of the commandants
of Okotsk, Kamtchatka, etc.

" But they vexed us most of all by their inquiries respecting bar-
racks. I have already observed that in Hakodadi they insisted on know-
ing how many men were under our command, according to our rank,
when we were ashore. This question was again repeated, together with
a request to know whore the sailors lived in St. Petersburg. In bar-
racks, wo replied. They then requested Mr. Moor to sketch, from the
best of his recollection, a plan of St. Petersburg, and to point out in
what part of the town the sailors' barracks were. This demand was no
sooner complied with, than they made inquiries respecting the length,
breadth and height of the barracks ; the number of their gates, windows,
.-ad doors; into how many stories they were divided ; in what part of
the building the sailors lived ; how they employed their time ; how many
men were employed to guard the barracks, etc.

" But this was not all : they questioned us about the military bar-
racks ; asked how many buildings of that kind there wore in St. Peters-
burg, in what part of the town they were situated, and what number of
men they contained. We thought it best to plead ignorance of most of
these matters ; but this did not exempt us from the continuance of these
interrogatories. We were asked in what part of the city our dwellings

420 OOLOWNIN'S CAPTIVITY IN JAPAN.

were sit.mteil how far they wore from the palace, and rcciuested to point
;rtl" "^ n the Hkotch which Mr. Moor had drawn. At length they
w hed ti know how large our houses were, and how tnany B'^rvants we
kept I frequently thought that the Japanese took a pleasure thus to
tc^Lnt us ; Vor to reply to aU the questions which tho.r -sat^t> e c^^^^^^
osity induced them to put to us, was a posiUve martyrdom Wo s.mo-
Umes absolutely refused to answer them, and told them they might if
t rpCed, put us to death. Tlie bunyo would then endeavor to soothe
by expressions of regard, and by making inquiries respectmg matters
relative to our imprisonment, but ho would soon resume las trifling. Wo
avoided by every possible maneuver giving any opportunity fornm^ocs.
sary quesUons; wo returned short replies, and sometimes only half an
answer. But every word brought with it a tram of interrogatories.'

After the prisoners had been driven to desperation by this contmued
questioning, and refused to gratify any longer the curiosity of the Japn-
L, the latter asked them to write out an account of what had happened
to ihcm since they left Russia. In doing this they took occasion ^^/J
late minutely the occurences at the island of Kunash.r. A great deal of
time was consumed in translating this document into JaP'^?««' «"\*^«
work was not accomplished until the middle of November, with he help
of the interpreters, Alexei and Kumaddschero They then sent it to the
bunyo, accompanied by a petition, in which they requested that the Ja-
panese government would set them at liberty, and send them back to
Russia. Alexei was honest enough to confirm the truth of every thing
which they stated, contrary to the declaration of some othjr Kuril^
whom the Japanese had seized, and his testimony was not without its

""* A* few days afterward, they were summoned before the bunyo, who
addressed them in a speech of considerable length, which was thus trans-
lated to Golownm: "The Japanese at first supposed wo intended to
plunder and burn their villages. For this reason they had enticed us
Lo their garrison, and had detained us by force, with the viow of ascer-
tainingwhat had induced the Russians to commence hostilities as the
Japanese had uniformly entertained Mendly dispositions toward them.
The bunyo, however, gave credit to our explanationof the affair, and re-
garded us as innocent : he had accordingly given orders for removing
the ropes with which we were bomid, and would do all that lay m his
power to better our condition. If it depended on him to grant us our
freedom, and send us back to Russia, he would do so without hesitation ;
but we must be informed that the bunyo of Matsmai was not the chief
individual of the state, but that Japan was ruled by an emperor and a
superior government, whose commands he was bound to obey m aU cases
of importance, and without whose consent he could not grant us our free-
dom. On his part, however, he would use all his influence with the gov-
ernment in our favor, and to facUitato our return to Russia. With this
view he had sent one of the principal officers of Matsraai to leddo, the

jucstecl to point
At length they
vny servants wo
»lea8ure thus to
• insutiablo curi-
ora. Wo H Jino-
n. they might, if
(loavor to soothe
specting matters
, his trifling. Wo
inity for unneces-
imes only half an
errogatories."
by this eontinued
sity of the Japm-
liat had happened
ok occasion to re-
A great deal of
Japanese, and tho
iber, with the help
then sent it to tho
cstcd that the Ja-
lend them back to
uth of every thing
pine other Kuriles
ms not without its

)ro the bunyo, who
lich was thus trans-
od wo intended to
,hey had enticed us
h the view of ascer-
;e hostilities, as tho
tions toward them,
ofthc affair, and re-
■ders for removing
a all that lay in his
lim to grant us our
without hesitation ;
ai was not the chief
y an emperor and a
_to obey in all cases
ot grant us our free-
luence with the gov-
, Russia. With this
tsmai to Yeddo, tho

HOPES OF LIBRUATION,

427

capital, to endeavor to bring our afl'uir to the wlHhed-fur ish(u<. Tii tho
mean while he entreated ua not to give way to despair, but to ofUir up
prayers to Heaven,* and patiently to await the decision of the emperor
of Japan. When Alexei liad finished Iuh explanation, and the Japanese
perceived that wo understood him, our ropes were inintediatcly talvin
off, and they all sincerely congratulated us. Two of the Japanese, pres-
ent at this scene, were so moved that they shed tears.

" On returning to our prison, we found, to our astonishment, every
thing changed ; and we could scarcely comprehend how so complete an
alteration could have been effected in so short a time. Tlio s))nrH or
railings in front of our cages were removed ; the spaces which before
served us for passages were thrown into the cages ; the floor was laid
with planks in tho direction of its length, and covered with new mats,
so that our prison was converted into a roomy hall, in which we could
walk about and converse at our case. Near the flrcplace, wooden com-
partments were formed, and in them a teacup for each of us was placed ;
on tho hearth stood copper kettles with water for tea, and a pipe, with
a little pouch of tobacco, was laid ready for each. Instead of lamps with
flsh-oil, wo were alloAvcd candles. Wo wondered not a little at this un-
expected and rapid metamorphosis.

" Wo had scarcely recovered from our astonishment, when several
civil functionaries, accompanied by their ciiildren, came to visit us.
Thoy offered us their congratulations, seated themselves by the fire, and
smoked and chatted with us. In a word, we seemed no longer prison-
ers, but guests. Supper was not handed to us as usual, in cups or basuis,
but was served up, according to tho Japanese custom, on trays. Tho
vessels used were entirely new, and a finer sort was allotted to the ofliccrs
than to the sailors. The aliments were better than before, and the sagi
was no longer dealt out to us in certain portions, in cups, but was placed
before us, that we might fill it out as we pleased. This kind treatment
revived the hope of again seeing our country, and we passed a tranquil
night, for the first time since our imprisonment. The two following
days were spent in a manner equally gratifying, and we considered our
speedy return to Russia as certain. But this pleasant state of things was
not of long duration. New occurrences induced us to doubt the sin-
cerity of the Japanese. We soon had to revert to our old meals, and
nothing remained except tho new utensils."

Matters remained in this condition during the whole winter. The
captives wore sometimes treated kindly, and consoled with tho hope of
a speedy release, while at other times the aspect of the Japanese was
unfriendly and threatening. They finally became weary of this fluctuat-

♦ Whenever ho said any thing to conaole us, he recommended us to rely on God, a
circumstance with wliich wo were particularly pleased. It was satisfactory to reflect^
that the people into whoso power fate had consif^cd ua, entertained a just idea of tho
Supreme Being, and placed faith in tho Almighty Ruler of nations, before whom all must
sooner or later render an account of their actions. — Golownin.

100

mmm

'mmm _ _ ii |,!l l ' I J^' BgffgC^T^g^

428 OOLOWNIN'S CAPTIVITY IN JAPAN.

i„g, uiuMTtniu Htat.sand .lotcrrnino.l to n.uko tho att.n.i.t to o^capo
Tl.cv wore partly I0.I to this conclusion, by the conviction that the .In-
panose inten.kHl to retain thorn as teachers, in onU-r to prat, y the^
l,ou..lless curiosity. A new intcn,rctor, nan.ed Teskc, was H;^'t '. hc.„
from the capital, to learn the Uussian la«Rua«o ; ho wa« f..lIo^^o<l by an
astronomer, who wished them to teach Imn how to make observat.onB
for tho latitude and longitude. All wore at firrt agreed uiK)n tho necos-
sity of escaphig, but in the beginning of March Mr. Moor, the mulslnp-
man, nuddenly declared that ho would have notlnng to .lo with the plot.
From that moment a complete chai.go took place in his manner and be-
havior He began t.» imitate tho customs of tho Japanese ; ho wa« .)b-
8ec,ui.niH toward them to such a degree that their laughter was excited
mid began to watch his fellow-captives, evi.lently with tho J^^'^g" of
giving biformation against them. Golownin soon bccanio convinced that
it would bo unsafe to trust him; ho therefore pretended to have given
up the idea of escaping, while, with the concurrence of all tho others,
the preparations for it wore secretly going on.

On the 1st of April thoy were all taken out of the cages and con-
ducted to a house which had been expressly prepared for them Our
residence," says Golownin, "was in various respects changed for the
bettor We could at least enjoy the sight of tho sky, tho stars, and
many other objects; and wo could, when wo chose, walk out mto the
yard and enjoy tho fresh air. Wo had beforo been debarred fronri aU
these enjoyments. Our food was likewiso considerably better But,
nevertheless, we were inconsolable whenever we thought ot tho last
words of tho bunyo. Ho desired us to regard tho Japanese as our
brethren and countrymen, and mentioned not a word about Russia, as
he had been beforo accustomed to do. Wo could construe tins in no
other way than that wo must make up our minds to remam m Japan,
and banish every thought of Russia. But we had firmly resolved that
such should not bo our fate ; and had even bound ourselves by an oath,
that whatever might be the consequence, wo would attempt either to
liberate ourselves by force from tho power of the Japanese, or to escape
secretly during the night. We had all, with the exception of Mr.
Moor, formed a determination to perish rather than remam forever m

' ''^""in one of our walks in the outskirts of tho city we found a piece of
steel which one of tho sailors picked up, under pretense of drawing up
his boot and slipped it into his pocket; we likewise found meansto
provide ourselves with some flints, unperceived by our attendants. The
fragments of an old shirt, which we threw upon the fire as if by accident,
served us for tuidcr ; we besides daily increased our store of provisions,
by secreting a portion of our allowances. We did not neglect defensive
precautions. Having had the good fortune to find among the grass m
our vard a largo chisel, which had probably been left by tho carpenters
who' repaired our house, we carefully hid it, and resolved, on the first

AN.

ttftlipt to OHCftpO.

iction that the .lu-
•r to gratify their
', wftH Hfnt to tht'in
wiw f(»nowt«(l Ity at»
make observations
LiPil ui)on tho nuccft-
Moor, tho miilshii*-
to <lo M-ith the plot,
his manner and bo-
ipanesc -, l>o was ob-
mgliter was excited,
with tho design of
icanio convinced that
ended to liavc given
CO of all tho others,

f the cages and con-
ed for them. " Our
•cts changed for tho
le sky, tho stars, and
^e, walk ont into the
L'en debarred from all
ilerably better. But,
thought of tho last
tho Japanese as our
word about llussia, as
d construe this in no
.s to remain in Japan,
[d firmly resolved that
ourselves by an oath,
uld attempt cither to
Ijapanese, or to escape
[the exception of Mr.
than remain forever in

Ity we found a piece of
Iretense of drawing up
[cwise found means to
[y our attendants. The

le fire as if by accident,
^)tir store of provisions,
[d not neglect defensive

id among the grass in
left by tho carpenters
resolved, on the first

B.SCAPK OP THK CAPTIVK8.

429

favorable opportunity, to fasten it to n long pole, so that it niight serve
as a pike. To a Nimiiar purpose we destined a spaile, wlii<rh hud also
been left by accident hi our yard, and whieli we appro]>riated. 'Hm
proverb, th.it necessity is tho mother of invention, wiis in our ciise fully
verified, for Mr. ChlebnikofT actually managed to make a (Munpass. \Vo
roiiuested our attendants to let us have two large needles for mending
our clothes, and afterward protended that we ha<l lost th<'m. The
J.^ltanese sometimes fasten together the beams of their houses witli <'o|i-
per ; this had been done in our house, altliough tlui copper was very
rusty. Mr. Chlebnikoff cleaned a piece of this copper, hi the middle of
which ho bored a hole, so that a needlo might be placed upon it. IJy
frequently rubbing this needle on a stone which ho selected for the pur-
pose, ho succeeded in magnetising it, an<l finally gave it such a degreo
of polarity, that it pointed with tolerable accuracy to tho north. Tho
case was composed of a few sheets of paper pasted together with rice."

Their plan was to escape by night, travel northward along th. hhore,
and take possession, at some of the fishing villages, of a boat largo
enough to convey them across to Tartary. On the )iSd of April, 1812,
they were conducted to tho outskirts of tho city for a walk, and made
use of tho opportunity to ol>servo tho foot-paths I««dit\g to the hills. On
their return to their house the same evening, they tlirew themselves
upon their beds, as if much fatigued. " During tho twilight," saj' ? tho
narrative, *' tho sailors entered tho kitchon, and carried off two knives,
without being perceived. Alwut half an hour before midnight, Simanoff
and Schkajcff stole into the yard, and concealed themselves under tho
steps. When twelvo o'clock struck, and the Sangar soldiers had gone
their rounds, they began to make a hole under the fence, through which
wo all (Mr. Moor and Alcxoi excepted) crept one after another. I stum-
bled in going out, slipped down, and struck my knee against a stako
which was sunk in the ground close to tho gap. Tho blow was ex-
tremely violent, but the pain soon diminished. We found ourselves on
a very narrow path between tho fenco and the hollow, and with great
difficulty wo suooeeded in gaining tho high road. With hasty steps wo
then passed between tho trees, crossed the mound and the cemetery,
and, in about half an hour, reached the foot of the first hill which wo had
to ascend.

" Proceeding in our har.ardous enterprise, we began, at the distance
of about five versts from tho shore, to climb tho hills, and we endeav-
ored, wherever it \vta possible, to direct our course northward. Tho
stars served to guide us. While wo were ascending the first hUl I felt
a violent pain in my knee, which in a short time swelled prodigiously.
When we proceeded along level ground, I could, with the assistance of
a stick, walk without much difficulty ; but I experienced severe pain
either in ascending or descending, as I was then obliged to tread heavily
with the leg which had been hurt. Being thus unable to make an equal
nsc of both feet, I was quickly overcome with &tiguo. My companions

480

GOLOWNIN'3 CAPTIVITY IN JAPAN.

were, therefore, under the necessity of stopping every half hoar, to
enable me to recover myself and case my knee by resting. Our object
was to reach, before daybreak, some hills, across which a thick forest
extended, so as to conceal ourselves from the observation of the enemy;
for we had now reason to regard the Japanese in that character. Dur-
ing our walks in the vicinity of the town, this forest appeared io us to
be at no very considerable distance, but we soon found how greatly we
had mistaken its situation. We could trace no footpath leading to it,
and we therefore advanced to it in as straight a direction as we could.
Owing to the darkness of the night, we could see no further than a few
paces around us, and we sometimes unexpectedly found ourselves at the
foot of a steep precipice, which it was impossible to climb. We had
then to search for a more practicable road ; which, when found, we con-
tinued to ascend until new obstacles presented themselves."

After having traveled for three hours in this manner, they reached
the top of the ridge, and discovered a beaten road, leading directly to-
ward the forest, where they might walk without fear of being tracked.
They had almost reached the forest, where they would have been toler-
ably secure, when the sailor Wassiljeff, happening to look behind him,
exclaimed : " They are pursuing us on horseback with lanterns !" and
immediately descended into a deep hollow on one side of the road. The
others followed his example, but by the time they had reached the bot-
tom of the hollow, which was surrounded with precipices, the sun had
risen. Perceiving at last a small aperture in the rock, which had been
hollowed out by the action of a waterfall, they crept into it, and although
the place was not large enough to allow them to sit down, they remained
there until sunset. As soon as the stars appeared they climbed the hill
again, and proceeded northward. Captain Golownin suffered so much
pain, from the leg which had been injured, that ho found it almost im-
possible to advance, and requested the others to leave him. This they
refused to do, and the sailors took turns in dragging him along.

During tho whole of the night they advjmced northward over rugged
hills, suffering greatly from tho cold, and at daybreak halted among
some bushes, for the purpose of cooking a little rice which they had
brought with them. The day was cold and stormy, and as tho mount-
ains appeared to be entirely deserted, they determined to proceed. The
sailors were still obliged to drag Golownin, whose sufferings were so
great that he preferred lying down on the snow, and sliding down the
Bteep sides of tho hills. On this day he had a fearful adventure, which
he thus describes ; " Having ascended to a considerable height, we sud-
denly found ourselves at the foot of a steep rock, which we could not
climb without tho greatest difficulty and danger. I had nearly reached
the top of the rock, when I found myself under the necessity of loosening
my hold of the girdle of Makaroff, who otherwise, overburdened as he
wa.s, would not have been able to have gained the summit. I therefore
placed the toes of my sound foot firmly against a stone, and throwing

.»: ri^ftWr-tit<Hiifr'rtii-/ii^.i

ery half hour, to
iting. Our object
ich a thick forest
tionofthe enemy;
,t character. Dur-
iippeared co ua to
id how greatly wo
tpath leading to it,
ection as we could,
ftirther than a few
ind ourselves at the
to cUmb. We had
irhen found, we con-
ceives."

anner, they reached
, lending directly te-
ar of being tracked,
uld have been tolcr-
to look behind him,
with lanterns '."and
ide of the road. The
had reached the bot-
recipices, the sun had
ock, which had been
t into it, and although
i down, they remained
they climbed the hill
nin suflfcred so much
found it almost im-
ieavehim. This they

ig him along,
orthward over rugged

jrbreak halted among

) rice which they had

ly, and as the mount-

lined to proceed. The

►se sufferings were so

, and sUding down the

arful adventure, which

lerable height, we sud-

k, which we could not

I had neariy reached
c necessity of loosening
e, overburdened as ho
e summit. I therefore

a Btouc, and throwing

A FEARFUL ADVENTURE.

481

my right arm roimd a young tree, which was so much bent down that
it inclined almost horizontally, I resolved to wait until Makaroff should
reach the top, and be able to release me from my perilous situation.
But, powerful and vigorous as Makaroff was, his great exertions had so
overcome him, that he no sooner reached the summit, than he fell to the
ground almost in a lifeless state. At this moment, the stone against
which I rested my foot detached itself, and rolled to the bottom of a
deep hollow which the rock overhung. I was thus left hanging by one
hand, without the possibility of obtaining any other support, owing to
the excessive smoothness of the rock.

" The rest of the sailors were at no great distance, but fatigue ren-
dered them unable to afford me any assistance. Makaroff still lay
stretched upon the ground, and Mr. Chlebnikoff was laboring to climb
the rock at another point. Having remained in this dreadful situation
for several minutes, my hand began to smart severely, and I was on the
point of ending my sufferings by precipitating myself into the gulf, more
than a hundred fathoms beneath me, when Makaroff, suddenly recover-
ing, beheld my situation, and hastened to my assistance. Resting his
foot upon a stone which projected fi-om the rock under my breast, he
with one hand grasped a branch qf the tree. With my hand which was
free I then seized his girdle, and, by a great effort on his part, I was
drawn to the top of the rock. We were no sooner both safe, than Ma-
karoff again fell down in a state of uisensibility. Had either the stone
or the branch of the tree given way, we must both have been precipi-
tated to the bottom, and have perished."

" Meanwhile, Mr. Chlebnikoff had climbed to the middle of the rock,
when such obstacles presented themselves that ho could neither move
backward nor forward. The sailors immediately tied together the sashes
they wore as girdles, and, having lowered one end until he was enabled
to take hold of it, drew him from his perilous situation."

Tliey passed the night on the summit of one of the highest mount-
wns of Matsmai, but Avere not able to sleep much on account of the in-
tense cold. Next morning they cooked some garlic and sorrel for
breakfast, and then descended towai-d the sea-shore, by the bed of a
torrent — a path so difficult, that a single false step would have dashed
them to pieces. Toward evening they found some deserted huts, in
which they passed the night with tolerable comfort. On the 27 th they
emerged from the hills, and were cautiously making their way northward
at some distance from the shore, when they suddenly saw a party of
soldiers on horseback. They had barely time to conceal themselves
among some bushes, and the men passed on without discovering them.
After dark they descended to the shore, which they followed all night,
passing through a number of fishing villages, without being seen by any
one. They found several boats, but all were too small for their purpose.

Tlie two following days were spent in the same manner, the fugitives
proceeding along the sea-shore at night, and hiding themselves among

mmmmm

432

GOLOWNIN'S CAPTIVITY

IK JAPAN.

ceived no answer We then ue h | .^^^ ^^^^j^^^^

rarrelen.^ihSournni^^^ admit, and then drew Inm

lar as trie '«'"«^ informed us, that, notwithstandmg the depth to

up agam. Wassiljett ™«/™«^ ' ^ ^he extent of the hole ;

"""" We ri'Lnca for two hour, ta iv 8t»to of tho most pataM uncer-
rfjTShlm'tmS-.u^'^en scnethtag -topped him. a„a

::ittuCUa^ea*o.po.^^^^^^^

unexpected appearance. Atter resimj, /" „,tnfhUhodv Even

the shore, they obseryca a """* Schkaieff hoping to find some pro-
^™„ea.o ta,^ *;Xtwt^ufhta Ja,a„a gr»peath»
visions m the tent, enterea, "'^ ^ .^ ^ j ^w and

'«7r^.^:'r,T^ra«/of morning drove them once more
and »^««PJ"S.7*^^- XL^prisedthemonthcside of abarrenmornit-
among the hiHs J>^f ^^J ^^^^^^^^^^^ few scanty bushes. They beheld
ain, covered «"!>' ^^^^;"^;f ^le, along the shore, as fer as the eye
footpaths on -ry « d^^^^^^^^^ J,.,u as they could but soon

could sec. iney conceaiuu «,,nns5tP hill who was lookmg at

aifiji'*'F,r.-iif> Tuvwatnwrti.

;ly from hunger,
oat. They were
)nc, and yet were
nee between the
rso twice a day.
iges in the dark,
icy called, liiit re-
r " says Golownin,
[own into the hole
him gradually aa
id then drew him
ling the depth to
stent of the hole ;
iswer. We there-
md then to lower
sr Mr. Chlobnikoff

lost painful uncer-
at length heard a
our great joy and
id first rolled down
; stopped him, and
)ed a second time,
me fathoms. For-
lie pit, but he was,
led in climbing ujp
surprised us by his
ne, he again walked
of his body. Even
the frightful gulfe

irough a village on
tent near it. They
p to find some pro-
nd, and grasped the
ried out loudly, and
id a stone v; all. On
tting up in the boat,
)ve them once more
le of a barren mount-
lUshes. They beheld
re, as for aa the eye
they could, but soon
who was looking at
ey could not see. In
Qolownin and Maka-

RECAPTURE AND IMPRISONMENT.

483

roff escaped at first, they were all ultimately recaptured, bound, and
taken back to Matsmai under a strong guard.

They were immediately taken before the bunyo and examined. Mr.
Moor, who was present, took the part of the Japanese, and gave Golow-
nin and Ilia companions much trouble, by contradicting many of their
statements. After this examination, they were sent to the city prison,
in which the Japanese criminals were confined. Here, after being strip-
ped and searched, Golownin and Chlebnikoff were put into separate
cages, and the four sailors in a third, which was larger and better sup-
plied with light and air. Golownin had taken upon himself the whole
responsibility of the fliglit, informing the Japanese that the sailors were
bound to obey him, and were therefore not to blame. Nearly every
day they were carried before the bunyo and subjected to weary and
perplexing interrogatories. Toward the last of June a new bunyo ar-
rived from Ycdo, and matters apparently became more favorable, for on
the 9th of July they were removed fi*om the city prison to the house
which they had occupied previous to their flight.

They were now also treated with more kindness than formerly.
" Our guards," says Golownin, " treated us with much civility, giving us
sometimes sagi, fruit, etc., and these acts of kindness were no longer
performed by stealth. An old man, seventy years of age, brought some
fans and lackered spoons for Mr. Chlebnikofi' and me, and an ink-stand,
ink, and pencil, for Schkajeff, who, though sufiering from severe illness,
was exceedingly anxious to practice reading and writing. This man,
though arrived at the age of thirty-two in total ignorance, had, while on
board the sloop, by extreme application, learned to read, and likewise to
write a little. To pass away the time, Mr. Chlebnikoff and I took upon
ourselves the task of instructing the sailors. Schkajeff, who suffered
seven'ly from indisposition, feared lest the others might advance more
rapidly than he, and, whenever he experienced the least mitigation of
his illness, never failed to employ himself either in reading or writing.
He applied to both with unremitted assiduity, while his companions re-
garded the task of learning to read as too difficult, and abandoned it
before they had acquired the alphabet. Mr. Chlebnikoff gave him in-
structions every evening, so that in time he could read and write tolera-
bly well.

" Nothing remarkable occurred until September ; but I can not omit
mentioning a circumstance wLioh is characteristic of the customs of the
Japanese. One day, a dinner was sent to us of far better quality than
that to which we had been accustomed, and it was served in elegant
dishes. Every person who visited us congratulated us on receiving this
compliment, which we concluded came from the bunyo ; but we after-
ward learned that the dinner had been sent by a rich man, who was
suffering luider a dangerous fit of illness ; and that in such cases it was
customary for the Japanese to send presents of that sort to the poor and
unfortimate,"

434 GOLOWNIN'8 CAPTIVITY IN JAPAN.

On the Cth of September they Avcre conducted to the castle, oiid to
their surprise and joy, received a letter from Lieutenant ll.kord, statmg
ha he was at the island of Kunashir with the Diana; that he knew not
whether they were dead or Uving, but would not leave until he had re-
eved news of them. This letter wa.s accompanied with an application
to Ihc Jalieso government for their release. These papers were trans-
Id aSrwarded to Yedo ; but in a fortnight afterward t- Japanese
interpreterB announced to Golownin that Rikord had saUed back to
Sberil, taking with him five of the crew of a Japanese vesse which he
h d encounteld. About the middle of October another lett^^^^^^^^^^
livercd to Golownin. It was from Lieutenant Rudakoff, and stated that
on ir a^-riving at Kunashir they were informed that the prisoners had
Ln 1 to defth. They then determined to commence hostihties, -d
.ccm-dingly captured a Japanese junk, from the crew of which they
ierned that their friends were stiU alive. They had, nevertheless, taken
Z master of the junk and four sailors with them, and would return
early the next year, to procure Golownin's liberation.

"A ray of hope «o^ ^«g-" *« ^^^^^ "P°" "^'" T ^.TT'"' 7t
seemed to rescue us from utter despair. Thus perplexed between he

expectation of liberty and distrust of the Japanese. - - -f J^^^^^^^
new year, 1813." During the winter and sprmg, they lived ma state
TJZ trouble and perplexity, on account of the smgular conduct of
Mr Moor, who sometimes appeared to repent of lus past basene«s^^and
to desire to regain their confidence, while at other times, he did all m
his twer to prejudice the Japanese against them. His behavior was so
extroTdinar/^^^^^ Golownin Vas forced to believe that his mind was
aS re^^d subsequent occurrences confirmed him in his opmion
"On the 10th of May?" says the narrative, "the note which we had re-
qi?e:t d iZission fo dispatch to the different fortified harbors,^oui
form our friends that wo were living and well, was returned from the
capTtal. The government had approved of its contents, and consequently
Tt a single letter could bo altered. Having made five copies, and
affixed 2 signatures to each, they were dispatched on the s^e day to
Teir several destinations. This note waa to the following effect :
w

" ^ We are all, both officers a«d seamen, and t^^^^^^^^^l^x^^^^^^^

^"'i^MayTorisia. FK0.OKMO0B..

"Mr. Chlebnikoff was unable to sign the notes on account of severe

'""'on the 20th of Jmie they received information of the arrival of the
D/^^Kunashir, and on the following day ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
orders to ask Golownin which of the sailors he wished 1 end on board
To avoid showing any preference to one more than a...ther, he deter
Sned iia chance should decide the matter, and the lot aappened to

PAN.

I the castle, and to
mt Uikord, stating
; that lie knew not
,vc until he had re-
with an application
I papers werp trans-
•ward the Japanese
liad sailed hack to
eso vessel which he
other letter was de-
;off, and stated that
it the prisoners had
ence hostilities, and
jrew of -which they
, nevertheless, taken
1, and would return

ays Golownin, " and
plexed between the
we entered upon the
they lived in a state
I singular conduct of
is past baseness, and
r times, he did all in

His behavior was so
e that his mind was

him in his opinion,
jte which we had re-
rtified harbors, to in-
8 returned from the
nts, and consequently
lade five copies, and
d on the same day to
Qowing effect :

e Kurile Alexei, alive,

''A88ILY GOLOWNIN.
KODOB MOOE.'

on account of severe

1 of the arrival of the
I inte-ireters received
ihcd t jend on board.
»an ai.^ther, he deter-
l the lot. i,appened to

A SAILOR'S RETURN.

486

fidl to Simanoff. Ho also requested that the governor would permit
Alexei to accompany him. To this the latter consented, and they re-
ceived orders to prepare for their departure. They left Matsmai on the
24th, accompanied by Kamaddschero, the interpreter, and Sampey, the
deputy governor,*

Nothing further happened until the 10th of July, when a letter was
received from Captain Kikord, stating that he should sail immediately
for Okhotzk, and return in September, bringing the declaration required
by the Japanese government, that Chwostoff 's attack was an act of pri-
vate aggression merely. A few days afterward, Simanoff and Alexei
were brought back to Matsmai, the Diana having sailed. From this
time forward the prisoners were kindly treated. The Japanese govern-
ment appeared to have decided to liberate them, and they were relieved
from the torturing suspense which they had suffered for nearly two years.
On the 30th of August they left Matsmai, for Hakodadi ; previous to
their departure, the officers came, with their children, to bid them fare-
well, and offered them farewell cards. The people, who had assembled
in great multitudes in the streets, all pressed forward to bid them adieu.
On the 2d of September, they entered Hakodadi, and were quartered in
an imperial building, near the garrison.

On the 16th, they were rejoiced with the news that a foreign vessel

* In Captain Rikord's account of his negotiations with the Japanese for the release
of Golownin and his companions, he gives the following description of Simanoff 's arrival.
Tatchatay-Eacbi, the Japanese junk owner, whom Rikord had carried off the previous
summer, informed him on the 26th of June, that an imperial vessel was about to arrive
iVom Matsmai, with the deputy of the bunyo. The next evening the vessel came into
port, and Kachi went on shore to meet the deputy, promising to return in the morning.
Rikord then continues: " Faithflil to his appointment, we saw him in the morning com-
ing down to tiie shore, in company with another man. Kachi was instantly recognized
by the white handkerchief which he always waved at the end of his saber ; and with re-
spect to the other, we did not remain long in uncertainty, for as they advanced, our
worthy little friend occasionally vanished fh>m our view, in consequence of falling behind
his more bulky companion. We all exclaimed, 'That is one of our Russiana'

"It is impossible for me to describe the moving scene which followed, when our
sulors beheld their comrade returned from captivity. A part of the crew were filling
water-casks at the rivulet. When the prisoner saw Russians on the other side of the
stream, and probably recognized among them some of his old messmates, he made but
one step to its banks, leaving Kachi at least nine paces behind him. Surprise and joy
made our sailors forget that they were prohibited from crossing the rivulet. They waded
through it, and embraced the welcome visitor in the most affectionate manner. The
officer who had the command of the party on shore informed me, that at first he did not
know the stranger, he was so altered by the sufferings he had undergone. At last, all
the men cried out with one voice, ' Simanoff I' for that was his name. He then threw off
his hat, knelt down, and could not utter a word ; but the tears rolled fast down his
cheeks. This affecting spectacle was renewed when he came on board the ship. I
saluted him first, and asked whether our friends in Matsmai were well. 'Ood be praised,'
he replied, ' they are in life, though not all quite well. Mr. Chlobnikoff, in particular, is
dangerously ill' I repressed my desire to ask fbrther questions, knowing the impatience
with which the men were waiting for a talk witli him."

MKkKNM 4Bi «l

486

GOLOWNIN'S CAPTIVITY IN JAPAN.

had been seen off the coast. This was the Diana, but she did not enter
the harbor of Hakodadi until the 28th. Captain liikord immediately
sent on shore the declaration of the commandant of Okhotzk, which was
satisfactory to the authorities ; for, after some fui ther negotiations and
ceremonies, the prisoners were finally summoned before the bunyo on
the 0th of October, to receive the official notice of their liberation. The
bunyo presented them with the following congratulatory address : " You
have now lived three years in a Japanese frontier town, and in a foreign
climate, but you are now about to return to your native country. This
affords me great pleasure. You, Captain Golownin, as the chief of your
companions, must have endured extreme anxiety of mind, and I sincerely
rejoice that you have attained your happy deliverance. You have, in
some measure, become acquainted with the laws of our country, which
prohibit us from maintaining any commerce with the people of foreign
nations, and require that we should banish all foreign vessels from our
coasts. Explain this to your countrymen on your return home. It has
been our wish, while you remained in Japan, to treat you with all possi-
ble kindness ; but, before you became acquainted with our customs, our
behavior may have appeared to you the very opposite of what we in-
tended. Each nation has its peculiar customs, but good conduct will
everywhere be esteemed as such. On your return to Russia, inform
your countrymen of this likewse. I wish you all a safe voyage."

" On the following day, the 7th of October, we put on our best
dresses. The servants and guards packed up our other clothes in boxes,
without omitting the least trifle, and placed them in the portico of the
house. At mid-day Ave were conducted to the shore. Our clothes, the
presents we had received, and the provbions for our voyage, were car-
ried behind us by a number of attendants. On reaching the harbor, wo
entered a building near the custom-house, where Mr, Moor, Mr. Chleb-
nikoff and I, were shown into one apartment, and the sailors into another.
We had been only a few moments in this place, when Captain Rikord
came ashore, accompanied by Mr. Saweljeff, the interpreter, and some
other individuals. Rikord and his two companions were conducted to
the same apartment in which, a few days before, my interview with him
had taken place, and which Mr. Chlebnikoff, Mr. Moor and I, were now
requested to enter.

"Every thing being in readiness for our departure, we were con-
ducted to the bunyo's barge, in which we embarked, accompanied by
Tachatay-Kachi ; our clothes, provisions, and the presents, being placed
in separate boats. On our way from the custom-house to the boats, all
the Japanese, not only those with whom we were acquainted, but the
strangers who were looking on, bade us adieu, and wished us a safe voyage.

" The officers and seamen on board the Diana, received us with a
degree of joy, or rather enthusiasm, which can only be felt by brothers
or dear friends afler a long absence, and a series of similar adventures.
With regard to ourselves, I can only say, that after an imprisonment of
two years, two months, and twenty-six days, on finding ourselves again

mmmmm

ta-faMI^.^1..M>-Bilf.|, ..■„4.'.M.-^-r.^^>^ ■».... .^...^j j ^ ^ .^ ^^,^^ --'Mf-'-1% -tflfrV-rtl^.ll

PAN.

ut she did not enter
likord immediately
Okliotzk, which waa
.er negotiations and
lefore the bunyo on
leir liberation. The
tory address : "You
>wn, and in a foreign
ative country. This
, as the chief of your
mind, and I sincerely
ranee. You have, in
f our country, which
the people of foreign
ign vessels from our
return home. It has
sat you with all possi-
(vith our customs, our
»08ite of what we in-
ut good conduct will
irn to Russia, inform
a safe voyage."

we put on our best
other clothes in boxes,
a in the portico of the
ore. Our clothes, the
our voyage, were car-
jaching the harbor, we
Mr, Moor, Mr. Chleb-
the sailors into another,
when Captain Rikord

interpreter, and some
)ns were conducted to
my interview with him
Moor and I, were now

sparture, wo were con-
arked, accompanied by
I presents, being placed
a-house to the boats, all
jre acquainted, but the
wished us a safe voyage.
%na, received us with a
only be felt by brothers
!3 of similar adventures,
fter an imprisonment of
I finding ourselves again

RETURN TO RUSSIA.

487

on an imperial Russian ship, surrounded by our countrymen, with whom
wo had for five or six years served in remote and dangerous voyages,
we felt what men in such circumstances arc capable of feeling, but which
can not be described."*

The Diana sailed from Hakodadi on the 10th of October, and
reached Kamtschatka on the 2d of November. Twenty days afterward
Mr. Moor, who had been plunged in melancholy since his liberation,
committed suicide. Captain Golownin lost no time in jirooceding to
St. Petersburg, where he arrived on the 14th of July, 1814, aftor an
absence of seven years. He and Rikord were made Captains of the
second rank, and received pensions of 1500 rubles annually; Mr. Clileb-
nikoff received a pension equal to his yearly pay, while the sailors who
had been prisoners in Japan, received permission to retire from the
service, and were allowed annual pensions, amounting to their full yearly
pay. The Kurile, Alexei, as a reward for his good conduct, was pre-
sented with a lianger, and received, instead of a pension, twenty pounds
of powder, and forty pounds of shot.

* Captain Rikord, in his narrative, gives the following account of this scene : " At
twelve o'cloclt I went on board the barge, accompanied only by Savoljofif and Kissoleft",
and we rowed, under white flags, to the well-known building, wliere the Japonese were
in waiting to receive us. Our prisoners immediately appeared at the door. They all
■wore yellow dresses, with seamen's trowsers, and waistcoats of various colors. On any
other occasion we should have been highly diverted by the singularity of their appear-
ance, but now it did not even excite a smile. Friend gazed at friend with emotion and
joy, and our thoughts were expressed more by looks than by words. Tears of gratitude
to Providence glistened in the eyes of our liberated countrymen. The Japanese retired
and left us for some time alone, in order that we might give vent to our feelings. My
countrymen were then formally dehvered over to me. The papers of the Japanese gov-
ernment, which I was to lay before the authorities on my arrival in Russia, were pre-
sented to me, and refreshments were then handed to us in the usual manner.

" Having once more expressed our sincere thanks, we rowed from the shore at two
o'clock, accompanied by a countless number of boats, crowded with Japanese of both
sexes. Notwithstanding a violent adverse wind, none of the numerous boats by which
we were surrounded put back. The Diana was decorated with flags, and all her yards
were manned by the crew, who saluted us with three cheers. The enthusiasm of the
seamen, on once more beholding their bc'.cved commander and his companions in mis-
fortune, after a separation of two years and three months, was boundless. Many melted
into tears. This scene, so highly honorable to tho whole crew, can never be effaced
from my recollection. Golownin and his companions, who were moved to their inmost
souls, knelt down before the sacred image of the ship (the miracle-working Saint Nicolas),
and returned thanks to heaven.

" Golownin presented to me his sword ; the same which, during his captivity, tho
emperor of Japan had expressed a wish to see, and I now preserve it as the most val-
uable reward of my enterprise. To the officers he gave his telescopes, pistols, and astro-
nomical instruments. He gave to the senior non-commissioned officer one hundred
rubles; to the juniors seventy-flve ; to each seaman twenty-five ; and to the sailors who
had been his companions in captivity five hundred rubles each. But to Makaroff, who,
as the reader knows, was of particular use to him, he besides granted a pension, amount-
ing to a seaman's annual pay, from his estate in the government of Kasan. To the
Kurile, Alexei, he gave a set of carpenters' tools, a rifle, powder, shot, tobacco, and two
hundred and fifty rubles in money."

•1*

DE LASCARIS'S

SECRET MISSION AMONG THE BEDOUINS.

M. DE Lascaris was a Picdmontesc, of one of those Greek families
which settled in Italy after the conquest of Constantinople : he was a
knight of Malta when Napoleon conquered the island. He was then a
very young man : he followed the Corsican to Egypt, attached himself
to his fortunes, and was fascinated by his genius. Foreseeing Napo-
leon's future eminence, he endeavored to impress upon his mind that Asia
was a far grander field for his ambition than Europe. It appears that
some conversations were held on the subject : Napoleon did not entirely
embrace the idea of a magnificent oriental empire which was the be-
wildering dream of Do Lascaris ; but, on the eve of his departure for
Europe, he appointed the latter his secret agent, gave him instructions
and supplied him with ample means.

De Lascaris settled himself at Aleppo, to acquire a thorough knowl-
edge of Arabic, and form acquaintances with the Arab chiefs of the
Syrian Desert who came to that city. After some years' preparation,
he commenced his perilous enterprise ; he passed, at great risk, and un-
der different disguises, through all the tribes of Mesopotamia and the
Euphrates, and returned to Aleppo, rich in the knowledge he had ac-
quired, and in the political relations he had prepared for Napoleon.
But while accomplishing his mission, fortune overthrew his hero, and he
learned his downfall on the very day when he was about to carry to
France the fruits of his danger and devotion. This disappointment was
fatal to him ; he went into Egypt, and died at Cairo, alone, unknown,
and abandoned. His journals and notes arc supposed to have fallen into
the hands of Mr. Salt, then English Consul at Cairo, and were never
afterward heard of.

While M. de Lamartine was traveling in Syria, he learned, accident-
ally, that an Arab named Fatallah Sayeghir, who was the companion of
De Lascaris on all his journeys, and who had kept a journal of all his
experiences and adventures, was then living at Latakia. Lamartine im-
mediately sent a messenger to Fatallah, offering him two thousand pias-

■Miiiiiiil

440

DB LASCARIS'S SECRET MISSION.

■If

tors for the journal. Tim offor was accepted in the course of time, the
vohirno translate.1 into Italian by Lamartinc's interpreter, and finally
into French by the poet himself. Although exaggerated and romantic
in p-irts it is valuable for its illustrations of the life and habits of the
Avundering Bedouin tribes of the Syrian Desert, and its descriptions ot
Home localities (especially in the district of Nedjid), which no European
traveler has yet reached. Many of the adventures related have a strc.ng
tin-e of improbability about them, and the reader must bearinmmd
tlurt the narrator is an Arab, and not likely to be free from the habit ot
exaggeration peculiar to his race. Lamartine, however, seems to enter-
tain^no doubt of the truth of his story. ,

Fatallah Sayeghir first met with M. Lascaris de Ventimiglia in
Aleppo, in 1809, when he was engaged to give him lessons in Arabic.
When M Lascaris had learned to read and write tolerably well, he gave
Fatallah some money and told him to buy goods, such as were saleable
at Iloms, at llama, and the neighborhood, saying that they would trade
in the countries least frequented by merchants. Fatallah had become
attached to M. Lascaris, and accordingly made the purchases, for which
31 Lascaris paid eleven thousand piasters. From his dress and manners
the people of Aleppo thought M. Lascaris mad. He wore his beard long
and ill-combed, a very dirty white turban, a shabby robe, with a vest, a
leather belt, and red shoes without stockings ; when spoken to he pre-
tended not to understand what was said. But Fatallah had confidence
in his integrity and good sense, and, in compliance with his request,
promised to obey him in every thing.

They left Aleppo on the 18th of February, 1810, with a caravan
bound for llama. While at the latter place, M. Lascaris was viewing
the half-ruined castle, and had begun to take a sketch of it, when some
va-abonds ran out upon him from a broken arch and threatened to de-
nounce him for wishing to carry off treasures and introduce the giaours
into the castle. He defended himself and escaped with difficulty, but
soon afterward ho and his companion were arrested and thrown into a
dun<reon. Fatallah sent for a Christian writer named Sdim, by whose
interference they were enabled to purchase their liberty. They remamed
three weeks with Selim and his friends, and on the 25th of March pro-
ceeded with a caravan to Horns. During a stay of thirty days at this
place, M. Lascaris obtained much information respectmg the Bedouins,
from a locksmith who passed much of his time with them, arranging
their arms. They then pursued their route to Saddad, where they im-
packed their goods, to sustain their character of merchants. The shekh
and people of the village endeavored to dissuade them trom visiting the
Bedouins, whom they represented as most cruel and rapacious ; but the
travelers, nothing daunted, continued their journey to Conetain stiU
hoping to meet with a detachment of Bedomns, who pass this region m
their annual migrations. Meanwhile, the locknmith Naufal, who accom-
panied them from Horns, advised them to change their names, as their

•oursc of time, tho
j)reter, and finally
atcd and romfintio
13 and habits of tho
its descriptions of
vhich no Emoijoan
latcd have a stroni?
must bear in mind
( from tho habit of
rer, seems to enter-

de Vcntimiglia in
lessons in Arabic,
irably well, he gave
ch as were saleable
It they would trade
itallah had become
(urchases, for which
s dress and manners
wore his beard long
robe, with a vest, a
spoken to he pre-
Uah had confidence
3c with his request,

110, with a caravan
ascaris was viewing
eh of it, when some
cl threatened to de-
itroducc the giaours

with difficulty, but

and thrown into a
led Selim, by whose
•ty. They remained

2'5th of March pro-
' thirty days at this
cting the Bedoums,
dth them, arranging
dad, where they un-
rchants. The shekh
em from visiting the
i rapacious ; but the
ey to Corietain, still
lO pass this region in

Naufal, who accom-
their names, as their

ARAB HONOR.

441

own would create suspicion in tho HodouinH and Turks. Accordingly,
]M, Lascaris took tho name of Shekh Ihrnliini el ('.ibrc'ssi (tho Cyprian),
and pave to Fatallah that of Abilalinh el Katib. Tho Shekh Selini, of
Corietain, likewise endeavored to discotirage thorn from penetrating into
tlio desert, and repeated a thousand alnnniiig stories about the Ik'douins,
but when M. Lascaris consulted Fatallah, tho latter encouraged him to
proceed, saying that if ho acted honorably there was nothing to fear.

" In a sliort time," says Fatallah, " mo learned that the lledouins
M-ero approaching Palmyra : somo were seen even in the environs of
Corietain. Presently Ibcro came one, named Selame tl Hassan. AVo
were at Selim's when he entered. Coffee was brought, and while wo
were taking it, many of tho inhabitants came to tho shekh, and said :
' Eight years ago, at such a place, Hassan killed our relative; and we
are come to demand justice.' 1 [.issan denied the fact, and asked if they
had Antnesses. ' No,' they rci)lie(l ; ' but you More seen passing alone
on the road, and a little after wo found our relative lying dead. Wo
know that there existed a cause of hatred between you ; it is therefore
clear that you are his assassin.' Hassan still denied the charge ; and tl o
shekh, who from fear was obliged to exercise caution with the IJedouins,
and besides had no positive proof in the case, took a piece of wood and
said, ' By Him who created this stem, swear that you have not killed
their relation.' Hassan took the wood, looked at it some minutes, and
bent down his head ; then raising it toward his accusers, ' I will not have,'
said he, ' two crimes on my heart — the one of being tho murderer of
this man, the other of swearing falsely before God. It is I who have
killed your kinsman : what do you demand for the price of his blood ?'
The shekh, from policy, would not act according to the full rigor of
the law : and the persons present being interested in the negotiation,
it was decided that Hassan should pay three hundred piasters to the re-
lations of the dead. When it came to tho payment of the money, ho
said he had it not about him, but that he would bring it in a few days ;
and as some difficulty was made of letting him go Avithout security, ' I
have no pledge,' said he, ' to give ; but Ho will answer for me whoso
name I would not profane by a false oath.' Ho departed ; and four days
afterward returned vnih fifteen sheep, each worth above twenty piasters."

M. Lascaris being pleased with tho character of Hassan, made his
acquaintance ; they became intimate friends, and when the travelers pro-
posed to sot out for Palmyra, he engaged to conduct them thither in
safety. On their way M. Lascaris dislocated his ankle while mounting
his camel, but he would not be detained, and they continued their route.
Soon afterward they met a troop of armed Bedouins, who immediately
gave battle. Hassan weLt forward to meet them, and sustained the
attack for half an hour, but he Avas at length woimded by a lance and
fell from his horse. The Bedouins then began to plunder the party,
when Hassan, who lay bleeding upon the ground, thus addressed them :
" What are you about, my friends ? — will you then violate the laws of

442

DE LASCAUIS'S 8KCRET MISSION.

..I

Arabs, the usages of the Bedouins? They whom you arc plundering
are my brcthron-they have my word; I am re8iK)n8iblo lor all that
may befall them, and you are robbing thcm!-is this according to
honor?" The Bedouins charged him with conducting Chns lans to
Palmyra, without asking the permission of the shekh, Mehanna el Jadel,
the chief of the country. He replied that the merchants were m haste,
and Mehaima was far away; that ho had pledged h.s word, and the
Btranccrs had confided in the laws and usages of his country. At his
word! the Bedouins desisted, and only took from the Jravders what they
chose to give. They then pursued their journey with d.fheulty, M. Las-
caris suffering from his foot and Hassan from his wound, and arrived at
Palmyra on the following day.

Hero they hired a house and exposed their goods for sale, until M.
Lascaris had recovered, wlicn they went to visit the temples and mag-
nificent ruins of the place. " One day," says Fata^lah ^o saw many
people engaged in surrounding with wood a beautiful gramto column.
We were told it was to burn it, or rather to cause it to Ml in order to
obtain the lead which was in the joinings. Shekh Ibrahim, full of indig-
nation, addressing me, exclaimed, "What would the foundeis of Pal-
myrasay if they beheld these barbarians thus destrcymg their work ?
Since chance has brought me hither, I wUl oppose this act oj Vandahsm "
And having learned what might be the worth of the lead, he gave the
flay piasters they asked, and the column became our property. It waa
of the most beautiful red granite, spotted with blue and black, sixty-two
feet in length, and ten in circumference."

At length the approach of the Bedouins was announced, and one day
a party of eleven horsemen arrived, among whom was the Era.r Nasser,
the eldest son of Mahenna, chief of the tribe of El Hassnnee. M. Las-
caris was overjoyed, and on being presented to the enur, received ^^ur-
anccs of protection from all harm. He then mvited N^ser to eat with
him, as the Bedoums regard it an inviolable pledge of fidehty to break
bread with any one. The dinner appeared excellent, and after coffee
when they began to speak of different things, M. Lascans related to
Nasser the adventure with six horsemen of his tnbe. The em™hed
to punish them and restore the money, but the travelers mtreated hun
not to do so. They would have set out with him next day, but he m-
duced them to await the arrival of his father, who was eight days' jour-
ney distant. He promised to send them an escort and camels to carry

* "EiMS,^d?ys afterward three men came with the camels, and a letter
from Mehanna el Fadel, bearing his welcome and the promise of his pro-
tection Their preparations were soon made, and early next mornu^g
they loft Palmyra. They met a great many Bedouins, who questioned
their conductors, and passed on. After a march of ten houra, the plam
appeared covered with tents, and they reached the camp of Mehann^
They entered the tent of the emu-, who received them with proofi of

)N.

m aro plundering
nniblo fur all that
this accordmg to
ting Christians to
Mt'hanna el Fadel,
vnts were in haste,
lis word, and tho
1 country. At his
ravelers what they
I dilKculty, M. Las-
ind, and arrived at

s for sale, until M.

temples and mag-
»h, " wo saw many
ful granite column.
, to fall, in order to
rahim, fullofindig-
10 foundeis of Pal-
roying their work ?

act of Vandalism."
10 lead, he gave the
r property. It was
ind black, sixty-two

(unccd, and one day
as the Emir Nasser,
Hassnnee. M. Las-
cmir, received assur-
l Nasser to eat with

of fidelity to break
nt, and after coffee,
, Lascaris related to
2. The emir wished
ivelers intreated him

next day, but he in-
vas eight days' jour-

and camels to carry

) camels, and a letter
le promise of his pro-
early next momir<g
uins, who questioned
F ten hours, the plain
B camp of Mehanna.
them with proofi of

■-».

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)

1.0 Jfl^ I

I.I

125

- BA ■

2.2

:!f 1^ iilllio

1.25 1 ,.4 ,,,.6

►

l^-

PhotDgraphic

Sciences
Corporation

•v'

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

'«■-

^ >» '^q\

».

'^..^

^^'*
^

<«»

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.

Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques

■'■<'"il^£

MARCH OF A BEDOUIN TRIBE.

443

the highest consideration. Next day he had a camel killed to regale
them, a mark of high respect, as the Bedouins measure the importance
of the stranger by the animal they kill to welcome him.

After enjoying their hospitality for three days, the travelers opened
their bales, and sold many articles, upon most of which they lost more
or less. Fatallah did not understand this mode of dealing, but M. Las-
caris remmded him of their conditions, and he continued to sell accord-
ing to the wishes of his patron.

One day they saw fifty well-armed horsemen arrive, and hold a long
consultation with Nasser and his cousin, Shekh Zamel. Fatallah carried
a present to the wife of Nasser and learned that her husband had many
enemies among the Bedouins, who hated him for humbling the national
pride, and exalting the power of the Turks, with whom he sought al-
liance. The object of the meeting was to concert a plan of attack ; the
next day they would assail the tribe El Daffir, take their flocks, and do
them all the mischief possible. This intelligence was perplexing to M.
Lascaris, who, while endeavoring to attach himself to a tribe hostile to
the Osmanlis, found himself with a chief allied to them. Next morning,
a party of three hundred marched out ; three days afterward, they made
their triumphal entry, preceded by one hundred and eighty camels, taken
from the enemy. Some time afterward, Nasser received from Soliman,
the pasha of Acre and Damascus, a message, engaging him to come and
receive the command of the desert, with the title of Prince of the Be-
douins. Overjoyed, he departed for Damascus with ten horsemen.

Mehanna having ordered the departure of the tribe, the next morn-
ing by sur.rise not a smgle tent was standing ; all was folded up and
loaded, and the departure began in the greatest order. Twenty chosen
horsemen formed the advance guard ; then came the camels with their
loads, and the flocks ; then the armed men, mounted ; after these the
women, those of the chiefs in rich hmodahs ; the camels loaded with
baggage and provisions were behind. The line was closed by the Emir
Mehanna, mounted on a dromedary, and surrounded by his slaves, the
rest of the soldiers, and the servants, on foot. It was truly wonderful
to witness the order and celerity with which the departure of eight or
nine thousand persons was effected. M. Lascaris and Fatallah were on
horseback, sometimes ahead, and sometimes by the side of Mehanna.
When they halted, the Bedouins sprang to the ground, fixed their lances,
and fastened their horses to them; the women ran on all sides, and
pitched their tents near their husbands' horses ; and thus, as if by en-
chantment, they found themselves in the midst of a large city.

On the fourth day, they were attacked by the tribe of Daflir, who
sought to revenge themselves on Nasser, and succeeded in carrying off
some of the flocks. The Bedouins murmured, attributing their mishap
to the caprice and vanity of Nasser. Mehanna sent a courier to his son,
who immediately returned with an oflicer of the pasha, and a letter
threatemng vengeance on aU who should exhibit a robeUious spirit.

444

DB LASCARIS'S SECRET MISSION.

Nasser made such display of his new dignity that he still further offended
the Bedouins. A young chief of a neighboring tribe, who had listened
with impatience to his vauntuigs, rose hastily, and told him that the Be-
douins detested him, and threatened to depart from Bagdad and join
Ebn Chahllan, the Drayhy, or Destroyer of the Turks. On the foUow-
inf' day, he actually set out with his tribe for the country of Geziri, and
a combination against Nasser was talked of in all quarters. Mehanna
remonstrated with his son, but the latter still endeavored to tranquilize
him. The Bedouins meanwhile took sides with one or the other, the
greater part, however, with the father. Mehanna was highly esteemed
among the Bedouins ; his influence arose from his noble and generous
heart, and from being the cliief of a very ancient and numerous family.

In October, they were in the neighborhood of Aleppo, and Fatallah
rejoiced to find himself so near home, but his contract Avas such that he
could not communicate with his friends. M. Lascaris wished to spend
the \s'inter at Damascus, and with great difficulty they succeeded m
reaching Corietain, where they were cordially received by their friends.
They reported an advantageous speculation, while in reality, between
presents and horses, they had nothing left but some goods they had de-
posited at this place. After a long delay, they finally departed on their
journey, as winter was setting in. M. Lascaris rode a miserable horse,
and Fatallah a donkey, and they proceeded with four men of the village
as guides. In a defile between two mountains they were attacked by
twenty Bedouin horsemen, who stripped them of nearly all their cloth-
ing, leaving them their sorry beasts, Avhich were hardly able to walk.
"Night came on," says Fatallah, " and the cold was excessive, and de-
prived us of the use of speech. Our eyes were red, our skin blue ; at
the end of some time I fell to the ground, fainting and frozen. Shekh
Ibrahim, in despair, made gesticulations to the guides, but was unable
to speak. One of them, a Syrian Christian, took pity upon me and the
grief of Shekh Ibraliim ; he threw down his horse, which was also half
dead with cold and fotigue, killed it, opened the belly, and placed me,
Anthout consciousness in the skin, with only my head out. At the end of
half an hour, I regained my senses, quite astonished at finding myself
alive again, and in so strange a position. Warmth restored my speech ;
and I earnestly thanked Shekh Ibrahim and the good Arab. I took cour-
a;re and found strength to proceed. A little after, our guides cried out,
'Tlere's the village!' and we entered the first house. It belonged to a
farrier, named Hanna el Bitar. He showed a lively sympathy in our
situation, set about covering us both with camel-dung, and gave us a
little wine— a few drops at a time ; having thus restored our strength
.and warmth, he withdrew us from our dunghill, put us to bed, and made
us take some good soup. After a sleep, which was indispensable, we
borrowed two hundred piasters to pay our guides and carry us to Damas-
cus, which we reached the 23d of December, 1810."

One day, in the bazaar, a Bedouin, with whom they had broken bread

further offended
who had listened
him that the Be-
Bagdad and join
, On the foUow-
try of Geziri, and
arters. Mchanna
ired to tranquilize
or the other, the
s highly esteemed
ble and generous
lumerous family,
ppo, and Fatallah
was such that he
i wished to spend
they succeeded in
i by their friends.
I reality, between
;oodti they had de-
• departed on their
a miserable horse,
men of the village
were attacked by
arly all their cloth-
•dly able to walk,

excessive, and de-

our skin blue; at
nd frozen. Shekh
es, but was unable
y xipon me and the
vhich was also half

y, and placed me,
lut. At the end of

at finding myself
istored my speech ;
\rab. I took cour-
ir guides cried out.
It belonged to a
y sympathy in our
mg, and gave us a
tored our strength
.8 to bed, and made
indispensable, we

carry «s to Damas-

y had broken bread

THE DUAYHY, OR DE3TR0TKR.

445

in Nuarat el Nahaman, came to them, and after renewing their friend-
ship, he invited them to visit the tribe of Waled Ali, to which he be-
longed, whose chieftain, Douhi, was known to them. Th.^y consented,
and at the time agreed upon, he arrived with camels and guides, with
which llioy set out on the 15th of March, 1811. The tribe Avas at Misa-
rib, three days from Damascus, and after passing the nights in the open
air, they were amid the tenta of Waled Ali by sunset on the third
day. The tents, surrounded by horses, camels, goats, and sheep, formed
a i)leasing scene. The Emir Douhi received them with marked distinc-
tion, and made them sup with him. He commanded five thousand tents,
and three tribes, which were joined to his.

M. Lascaris was anxious to visit the drayhj', and had instructed
Fatallah to gain every information respecting his character, mode of life,
and the access to him, directing him at the same time to study the man-
ners and customs of the Bedouins, to adopt their dress and imitate their
usages, so as to pass absolutely for one of them, as he should depend on
him to make the journey thither. For this purpose he prolonged their
stay, and visited the three tributary shekhs of the Emir Douhi, direct-
ing Fatallah to take exact notes of all he saw and learned. Of these
peoi)le Fatallah observes :

" The numerous tribes are often obliged to divide themselves into
detachments of from two hundred to five hundred tents, and to occupy
a large space, in order to procure water and pasturage for the!" flocks.
We went successively through their encampments, until we could find
means to transport ourselves to the drayhy, who was at war with the
tribes of the territory of Damascus. We were universally well received.
In one tribe it waa a poor widow who showed us hospitality. In order
to regale us, she killed her last sheep and borrowed bread. She in-
formed us that her husband and her three sons had been killed in the
war against the Wahabees, a formidable tribe in the neighborhood of
Mecca. Expressing our astonishment that she should rob herself on
our account, ' He that enters the house of the living,' said she, ' and does
not eat, it is as though he were visiting the dead.' "

At length the drayuy arrived in Mesopotamia, and they engaged a
Bedouin of a neutral tribe to take them to him, but when they went to
Corietain for their goods, they heard of a victory gmned by a son of the
drayhy over Nasser, which gave renewed violence to the war. The
tribe of Salkeh, to which their guide belonged, had been attacked by
the drayhy, and no one dared to cross the desert. M. Lascaris ;vas in
despair ; in his exasperation he even found fault with Fatallah. The
latter then requested an understandmg in their relations, declsiring it
madness to attempt this journey for the purpose of trading, but adding
that if M. Lascaris had other motives adequate to the exposure of life,
he must let him know them, and he would find liim ready to sacrifice
himself in his service. M. Lascaris then told him that tUa commeroe

.f1

■ffit*r''-Sf-' l—f-^

446

DE LASOABIS'S SECRET MISSION.

was merely a pretext to conceal a mission with which he was charged
from Paris. These were his instructions :

"1. To set out from Paris to Aleppo.

" 2, To find a zealous Arab, and to attach him to me as interpreter.

" 3. To acquire a knowledge of the language.

" 4. To go to Palmyra.

" 5. To penetrate among the Bedouins.

" 6. To become acquabted with all the chiefs, and to gam their
friendship.

" 7. To unite them together in the same cause.

" 8. To induce them to break off all alliance with the Osmanlis.

" 9. To get acquainted with the whole desert, the halting-places, and
where water and pasturage are to be found, as far even as the frontiers
of India.

" 10. To return to Europe, safe and sound, aflcr having accomplished
my mission."

Fatallah resolved to go on foot to the drayhy. He went to Wardi,
the man who had saved him from perishing on the way to Damascus.
This man first tried to dissuade Fatallah from the rash undertaking, but
afterward engaged to go with him as a guide.

" It was essential," says Fatallah, " that I should be covered with
rags, in order not to excite suspicion or cupidity if we were discovered
on the road. This was my costume for the journey : a coarse cotton
shirt pieced ; a dirty torn gombaz ; an old caffie, with a bit of linen,
once white, for a turban ; a sheep-skin cloak with half the wool off, and
shoes mended to the weight of four pounds : besides these, a leather
belt, from which hung a knife worth two paras, a steel, a little tobacco
in an old bag, and a pipe. I blackened my eyes and dirtied my face,
and then presented myself to Shekh Ibrahim to take my leave. On see-
ing me, he shed tears. ' May God,' said he, ' give you strength enough
to accomplish your generous design ! I shall owe every thing to your
perseverance. May the Almighty be with you and preserve you from
all danger ! may he blind the wicked, and bring you back that I may
reward you !' I could hardly refrain from tears in my turn. At last,
however, the conversation becoming more cheerful, Shekh Ibrahim said,
smilingly, that if I were to go to Paris in this costume, I should get
much money by showing myself. We supped ; and at sunset we de-
parted. I walked without ftitigue till midnight ; but then my feet began
to swell. My shoes hurt me, and I took them off; the thorns of the
plants the camels browse on pricked me, and the small stones wounded
me. I tried to pu ? i my shoes ; and in continual suffering I walked on
till morning. A little grotto gave us shelter for the day. I wrapped
my feet in a piece of my cloak that I tore off, and slept without having
strength to take any nourishment."

At sunrise, on the seventh day, they reached the Euphrates ; some
hospitable Bedouins took them into their tents, where for the first time

■t. .T*' ."'"'■ imtam:

«/«'i*«>c.'* ;'xH'^ ,-./<w.u

ON.

ich he was charged

me as interpreter,
and to goin their

the Osmanlis.

I halting-places, and

en as the frontiers

aving accomplished

Ic went to Wardi,
3 way to Damascus.
9h undertaking, but

Id be covered with
we were discovered
jy: a coarse cotton
vith a bit of linen,
ilf the wool off, and
des these, a leather
eel, a little tobacco
id dirtied my face,
my leave. On see-
ou strength enough
very thing to your
preserve you from
u back that I may
my turn. At last,
Shekh Ibrahim said,
Btume, I should get
at sunset we de-
then my feet began
the thorns of the
lall stones wounded
ufferinglwalkedon
le day. I wrapped
ept without having

e Euphrates; some
•e for the first time

MARCH OF TIIK DRAYHT.

447

they made a hearty meal. They learned that the drayhy was throe
days distant, and that it was his intention to annihilate Mohanna and
Nasser, and return to his desert near Bassora and Bagdad. Fatallah
therefore took a guide and set forward. lie represented himself as a
merchant of Aleppo, having a correspondent at Bagdad who owed him
twenty-five thousand piasters, and that ui consequence of the war he
was obliged to risk the journey himself, and put himself under the pro-
tection of the drayhy. The emir received him politely and welcomed
him, but, according to custom, could not speak of business until after
three days devoted to hospitality and repose. The emir happened to
be in want of a secretary, and Fatallah, who offered to assist him for
the moment, so gained his confidenoo by his information respecting the
tribes he had vijitod, that the emir desired him to stay. Fatallah
seemed to yield, and soon persuaded the emir to cross the Euphrates in
order to gain over the tribes by his presence, and strike terror to his
enemies. As this was his first march into Mesopotamia, the advice and
information of Fatallah was a great resource to him.

" The departure," says Fatallah, " was superb to witness. The
horsemen before, on horses of high pedigree ; women on howdahs mag-
nificently draped, and on dromedaries, auiToundcd by negro slaves.
Men, loaded with provisions, were running throughout the caravan,
calling out : ' Who is hungry ?' and distributing bread, dates, etc.
Every three hours a halt was made, to take coffee ; and at night the
tents were raised as if by enchantment. Wo followed the banks of the
Euphrates, whose clear waters gleamed like silver : I myself was mounted
on a mare of pure blood ; and the Avhole journey appeared like a tri-
umphal march, presenting a strong contrast with my former passage over
the same country, in my rags and with my tortured feet."

They soon encamped on the Damascus territory, and kept advancing
westward. The emir received a threatening letter from Mehanna, and
replied in terms of defiance. By Fatallah's advice he sent word to the
neighboring shekhs that he had come to free them from the yoke of the
Osmanlis. Seven out of ten declared for him and came and encamped
around him. Hearing that Mehanna had sent to the Turks for assist-
ance, the drayhy immediately marched out his forces to attack him,
and gained a brilliant victory. In a few days Mehanna returned with
the Turks, but in their encounters the advantage was on the side of the
drayhy, and Nasser fell in an engagement between his troops and those
commanded by Zaher, the son of the drayhy.

As they were now very near Corietain, Fatallah proposed to go for
Shekh Ibrahim, whom he had often spoken of as his master and superior
in wisdom, when the emir had praised him for his sage counsels. The
drayhy accepted the offer with eagerness, and gave Fatallah a strong
escort, Fatallah was overjoyed at again seeing M. Lascaria, and spent
the night in relating all that had passed. Next day they returned to

448

DB LASOARIS'S SECRET MISSION.

the camp, where Shekh Ibrahim was received with the highest distmction
by the emir.

Soon afterward an attack of the Wahabecs cost the drayhy some
horsemen and much cattle. Next day M. Lascaris told Fatallali that
the drayhy was just the man he wanted, but that it was indisper.->able he
should become the chief of all the Bedouins from Aleppo to the frontier
of India, and further that he looked to Fatallah to arrange the matter,
by friendship, by threats, or by artifice. Fatallah set about the task
imposed upon him by first endeavoring to inspire the Bedouins with a
high idea of Shekh Ibrahim ; to this end some chemical experiments
were employed, .and prophecies were conveyed by Fatallah to the
drayhy, concerning his future greatness. The people began to regard
Shekh Ibrahim as a superior being, and the drayhy made him and Fa-
tallah cat with his wife and daughters-in-law, in the interior of their tent,
instead of eating with strangers in the rabha, or outer apartment.

Meanwhile a peddler who was supplanted by the strangers, began to
calumniate them before the Bedouins, beginning with the women, whom
he persuaded that they were magicians, who wished to transport their
daughters to a far country, and throw a spell around the women that
they might have no more children ; that thus the race of Bedouins would
become extinct and the Frank conquerors take possession of the coun-
try. They soon felt the effects of this ; the girls fled at their approach,
the women called them opprobrious names, the elderly ones threatened
them. At length these intrigues of Absi the trader were discovered,
and the drayhy would have put him to death, but by the intercessions
of Shekh Ibrahim and Abdallah he was only banished from the tribe.
He now spread Avider his aspersions, and even went to Damascus with
the intelligence that two Frank spies had gained the confidence of the
drayhy. From his aspersions Solyman Pasha sent an officer to the
drayhy with a threatening letter ordering him to give up the two in-
fidels to his officer, that they might be taken in chains to Damascus, and
publicly executed. The drayhy was highly incensed, but Fatallah took
him aside and begged permission to settle the affair. He knew that
M. Lascaris had married a Georgian in Egypt, who proved to be a cousin
of Solyman Pasha, and that subsequently at Acre his wife had made
known her relationship to the pasha, and was loaded by him with kind-
ness and presents, as well as her husband. M. Lascaris therefore wrote
to Solyman Pasha, and the officer returned in two days with a most
friendly answer, and another to the drayhy, recommending his well-
beloved friend, the great Shekh Ibrahim.

The drayhy had been surnamed the exterminator of the Turks, from
a grand victory, gained with great slaughter over the Osmanlis com-
manded by the pasha of Bagdad. From this and many other achieve-
ments which M. Lascaris heard of him, he devoted himself more and
more to the project of makmg him master of all the other tribes. The
Wahabees were formidable adversaries, who soon afterward fell upon

ION.

highest distinction

>st the tlrayhy some
i told Fatallah that
was indispcp.iable he
leppo to the frontier
» arrange the matter,
set about the task
the Bedouins with a
ihemical experiments
by Fatallah to the
ople began to regard
f made him and Far
Ulterior of their tent,
iter apartment,
le strangers, began to
ith the women, whom
ed to transport their
)und the women that
ice of Bedouins would
ossession of the coun-
fled at their approach,
Iderly ones threatened
•ader were discovered,
k by the intercessions
aished from the tribe.
3nt to Damascus with
the confidence of the
lent an officer to the
to give up the two in-
tuns to Damascus, and
sed, but Fatallah took
aflfair. He knew that
proved to be a cousin
re his wife had made
ed by him with kind-
scaris therefore wrote
two days with a most
commending his well-

itor of the Turks, from
er the Osmanlis com-
_ many other achieve-
ted himself more and
the other tribes. The
n afterward fell upon

RELIGION OP THE BEDOUINS.

449

tlic tribo Willed Ali, and spread over tlio desert to subdue the Ik'douins.
Many tribes, alarmed, were about to siibniit, when M. Lascaris per-
Hiiaded tlu> drayhy to take the field and declare himself the protector of
the oppressed.

" Tlie Wahabccs wore commanded by a doughty negro, a half-savage,
whose name W!i9 Abu-Nocta. When he prepares for battle, ho takes off
his turban and boots, draws up his sleeves to his shoulders, and leaves
his body almost naked, which is of prodigious size and muscular strength.
His head and chin, never being shaved, are overshatlowed by a bushy
head of hair and black beard, which cover his entire face, his eyes gleam-
ing beneath the shade. His whole body, too, is hairy, and affords a
sight as strange as it is frightful. The drayhy came up to him three
days from Palmyra, at a spot called Heroualma. The battle was most
obstinate on both sides, but ended in tho flight of Abu-Nocta, who re-
moved to the country of Nedjid, leaving two hundred slain on the field
of battle. The drayhy searched out among the spoils all that had been
taken from the tribe Waled Ali, and restored it. This act of generosity
Ktill further attached to him the affection of tho other tribes, Avho were
coming daily to put themselves under his protection. Tho report of
this victory gained over the terrible Abu-Nocta was disseminated every-
where. Solyman Pasha sent tho conqueror a pelisse of honor, and a
magnificent saber, with his congratulations. Soon after this exploit we
encamped on tho frontiers of Horan.

" One day, a Turkish moUah arrived at tho drayhy's ; he wore tho
large green turban that distinguishes the descendants of Mohammed, a
white flowing robe, his eyes blackened, and an enormous beard ; ho
wore also several rows of chaplets, and an inkstand in tho form of a
dagger at his belt. He rode on an ass, and carried in his hand an arrow.
He Avas come to instill his fanaticism into the Bedouins, and excite in
them a great zeal for the religion of the Prophet, in order to attach
them to the cause of the Turks. Tho Bedouins are of great simplicity
of character, and remarkable for their frankness. They do not under-
stand differences of religion, and do not willingly allow them to bo
spoken of. They are deists ; they invoke the protection of God in all
the events of life, and refer to Him their success or their failures with
humble resignation ; but they have no ceremonies or obligatory ritual,
and make no distinction between the sects of Omar and of Ali, which
divide the East. ITiey never inquired what was our religion. We told
them that we were Christians ; their answer was, ' All men are equal in
the sight of God, and are His creatures ; we have no right to inquire
what is the creed of other men.' "

Fatallah, after visiting Aleppo to procure goods and supplies, re-
joined the tribe on the banks of the Euphrates. The chiefs of Bagdad
and Bassora came daily to congratulate the drayhy on his victory, and
to make acquaintance with Shekh Ibrahim, whose renown had reached
them. They felt indebted to him for having counseled the war against

450

DE LASCARIS'S 8KCUKT MISSION.

tlio Walifibops, whoso rapacity had become intolerable; whose king,
Ebn Sihond, took the tenth of their flocks and tlieir money, and exacted
ablutions and prayers five times a-day, on pain of death. A treaty was
concluded in which the chiefs bonnd themselves to wage a war of ex-
termination against the Wahabees, to obey the great dray'.y, Ebn
Chahllan, and to listen to no calumnies against Shekh Ibrahim and Ab-
dallah. Couriers were sent to other tribes, and the chiefs mostly signed
the treaty willingly; while many who at first objected were prevailed
upon by Fatallah, who became an efficient diplomatist of the drayhy. ^

After some days spent in festivities they passed an arm of the Eu-
phrates and encamped near the tribo of El Cherarah, celebrated for its
couracre, and also for its ignorance and obstuiacy. A friendship existed
bctwe°en its chief, Abed, and the minister of king Ebn Sihoud, and he
accordingly refused to join the alliance. Sahcn was sent out with five
hundred men to attack him, and ho returned in three days with one
hundred and forty camels and other booty ; a few men were killed, but
a great number wounded on both sides.

Abed collected his allies and the war daily became more serious.
The encampment of the drayhy being now at some distance from the river,
the women wore obliged to bring water on camels, and on the third day
eight hundred of the camels were carried ofl' by the enemy. To avenge
this outra<'o the drayhy advanced rapidly on the tribe of Cherarah, and
after marching a day and a half, pitched ton thousand tents near the
camp of Abed. A bloody battle seemed inevitable, but Fatallah re-
solved to prevent it if possible. Knowing that the Bedouins hold
women in great respect, and consult them on all their plans, he visited
Arquia the wife of Shekh Abed, who was a very superior woman, and
by dint of compliments and presents led her on to the subject of the
war, and incidentally explained to her the advantages of an alliance with
the drayhy. Meanwhile her husband returned to the camp and sent
orders to Arquia ignominiously to dismiss the spy, as the rites of hospi-
tality would prevent him from taking vengeance. She haughtily refused,
and in the end prevaUed on Abed to listen to the proposals of Fatallah.
A few days afterward he set his seal to the treaty and exchanged the

camels taken in the war. . i . • . ^

Having come near Bagdad, M. Lascaris secretly repaired thither to
the French consul, to negotiate for a largo sum of money. After cross-
incr the Tigris, they learned that a sanguinary war was raging between
the Bedouins, who took part for or against the aUiance. They pushed
on, and on reaching the frontiers of Persia met a messenger from the
chief Dehass, who demanded the assistance of the drayhy agamst ene-
mies' numbering fifteen thousand tents. They were six days distant
from this tribe, but by marching day and night, without halting to eat,
they accomplished the distance in three days. The greatest fatigue :ell on
the women, who were obliged to make the bread, and milk the camels, with-
out delaying the caravan. Fatallah thus describes this ambulatory kitchen :

erablo; whoso king,
money, mid exac-tod
loath. A treaty was
;o wage a Avar of ex-
great drayl.y, Ebn
•kh Ibrahim and Ab-
( chiefs mostly Higned
ected were prevailed
tist of the drayhy.
id an arm of the Ku-
ah, celebrated for its
A friendship existed
Ebn Sihoud, and he
iras Bent out with five
three days with one
• men were killed, but

became more serious,
listance from the river,
, and on the third day
le enemy. To avenge
tribe of Cherarah, and
Dusand tents near the
able, but Fatallah re-
it the Bedouins hold

their plans, he visited
r superior woman, and

to the subject of the
iges of an alliance with

to the camp and sent
jr, as the rites of hospi-

She haughtily refused,
> proposals of Fatallah.
ity and exchanged the

jtly repaired thither to
f money. After cross-
'ar was raging between
alliance. They pushed
a messenger from the
ho drayhy agjunst ene-
were six days distant
without halting to eat,
e greatest fatigue "ell on
nd milk the camels, with-
;bis ambulatory kitchen:

INCURSION INTO PERSIA.

451

" At certain regulated distances women were placed, who were cm-
ployed without relaxation. The first, mounted on a camel laden with
wheat, had a hand-mill before her. The com once groimd, she passed
the meal to her neighbor, whose business it was to knead it with water,
carried in budgets suspended on the sides of lier camel. The dough wa«
then handed to a third woman, who baked it in the form of cakes on a
chafing-dish, with charcoal and straw. These cakes she distributed to
the division of warriors, whose food she was charged to provide, and
who came every minute to demand their portion.

" Other women walked beside the camels to milk them into cafiahn,
— wcoden pails, containing four litres : these were passed from hand to
hand to slake the thirst of the troops. The camels ate as they marched,
from bags hung round their necks ; and when their riders wished to
sleep, they lay at their length on the camels, their feet secured in the
Backs to protect thcin from falling. The slow and measured step of the
camels invites to sleep, and I have never slept better than on this
march."

Next day a letter was sent to the five hostile chiefs, but their reply
being warlike, Fatallah was dispatched with presents. With but a
single guide ho had nearly reached the tent of Mohdi when the ad-
vanced guard rushed upon them, stripped them of every thing, and left
them upon the burning sand in chains. Soon afterward the perfidious
Absi approached Fatallah, spit in his face, and insulted liim with threat-
ening words, then withdrew to txcite the Bedouins, who came, men,
women, and children, to overwhelm him with outrages. Toward the
evening of the second day a young man came up and drove away the
children, and afterward brought some food. In the night he loosed liis
fetters, and Fatallah returned to his friends. The battle raged with fur}-
two days, after which the two armies lay facing each other inactive. On
the third day of truce the chief Saker came with a single attendant to
the camp of the drayhy, to ransom his son, who was among the j)rison-
crs. His presence led to explanations, the calumnies of Absi were re-
moved, and he ended by signing the treaty. M. Lascaris told him their
intention was to open a passage from the coasts of Syria to the frontiers
of India, to an army of a hundred thousand men, under a powerfiil con-
queror, who would relieve the Bedouins from the yoke of the Turks, re-
store to them the sovereignty of the country, and open to them the treas-
ures of India. He also explained that the religious fanaticism of the
king of the Wahabees would counteract their plans, as his love of do-
minion, which had already made him master of Yemen, Mecca, and Me-
dina, would extend his pretensions to Syria. Saker entered fully into
these views, and promised to use all his influence with the other tribes.
It was agreed that he should be chief of the Bedouins of the country
they were now in, as the drayhy was of those of Syria and Mesopota-
mia. Next day he sent word that the chiefs Mohdi and Duakhry no
longer opposed their projects.

■

462

DE LASOARIS'S SECRKT MISSION.

M. Lascaris deferred the project of pushing on to the frontiem of In-
dia, until the following year, when the Sakcr would have liad time to
j)repare the tribes to second him. After a few days the army returned
to Mesopotamia. As they continued their journey they learned that th«
tribe of El Calfa was encamped at Zualma, and Fatallah, with an escort
of six men on dromedaries, was sent to negotiate with Jasscm, its shekh.
Tlioy arrived at the spot in three days, but found no traces of the camp.
They now wandered three entire days without finding cither water or
food, and Fatallah's strength was failing, when his companions descried
a well, and with a cry, darted forward. Fatallah fell to the ground in
despair, and his companions had to return to assist him. " At length,"
he writes, " we arrived at the well, and one of them leaning over the
parapet, drew his saber, declaring he would cut off the head of the first
man who dared approach. ' Be governed by my experience,' said he,
•or you will all perish.' The authoritative tone he assumed had itg
effect upon us, and we all obeyed in silence. He called us one by one,
beginning with me, and made us first lean over the margin of the well
to inhale some of its moisture. Then drawing a small quantity of water,
ho wetted our lips with his fingers ; by degrees he allowed us to drink
a few drops, then a small cup full ; and having pursued this rational
treatment for three hours, he siud, ' You may now drmk without risk ;
but if you had not listened to me, you would have been all dead men ;
for drinking without precaution, after long privation, is certain destruc-
tion.' We passed the night on this spot, drinking continually, as much
for nourishment as to slake our thirst, which, notwithstanding this indulg-
ence, seemed insatiable."

After some time they discovered the tribe they were in quest of, and
being kindly received by Jassem, Fatallah accomplished his mission
satisfactorily, and returned to the drayhy. Fatallah, having learned
that Mehaniia el Fadel had formed a coalition against the drayhy, per-
suaded M. Lascaris to consult the Pasha Solyman, at Damascus. They re-
paired thither and obtained a firman requiring the governors of Horns and
Hama to respect and obey the Drayhy Ebn Chahllan, supreme chief of
the Desert of Damascus. Meanwhile Mehanna advanced nearer, certain
of the co-operation of the Osmanlis ; but the drayhy sent the pasha's fir-
man to Horns and Hama, and the two governors placed their troops at
his disposal, declaring Mehanna a traitor for calling on the Wahabees,
the most inexorable enemies of the Turks. Mehanna made preparations
for the struggle, and sent his son Fares to Homs for assistance which
had previously been promised by the governor, but the latter threw
Fares in prison, and Mehanna, dismayed, found himself precipitated from
the supreme command, and obliged, not only to submit to the drayhy,
but even to solicit his protection against the Turks. The drayhy at first
refused to accept the submission of Mehanna, until M. Lascaris inter-
posed in his behalf. Fatallah thus relates their reconciliation :

"The drayhy yielding at last, the principal men of the tribe marched

«*.

[ON.

» the frontiera of In-
I have had time to

the army returned
[)cy learned that th«
allah, with an escort
th Jasscm, its shckh.
) traces of the camp,
ling cither water or
companions descried
fell to the ground in
him. " At length,"
lem leaning over the
the head of the first

experience,' said he,
he assumed had its
called us one by one,
ke margin of the well
lall quantity of water,

allowed us to drink
pursued this rational
V drmk without risk ;
'e been all dead men ;
on, is certain destruo-

continually, as much
hstanding this indulg-

were in quest of, and
mplished his mission
allah, having learned
linst the drayhy, per-
t Damascus. They re-
ovemors of Homs and
Ian, supreme chief of
iranced nearer, certain
y sent the pasha's fir-
placed their troops at
ng on the Wahabees,
ina made preparations
for assistance which
but the latter threw
self precipitated fi-om
ubmit to the drayhy,
. The drayhy at first
itil M. Lascaris inter-
ionciliation :
of the tribe marched

UILITARY CAMELS.

458

forward to meet Mchanna, on attention duo to hi.<i years and rank. As
soon aa ho alighted, the drayhy assigned him tho neat of honor in the
corner of tho tent, and ordered cofl'eo to be brouglit. Mchanna here-
upon rose : ' I will drink none of thy cofleo,' said ho, ' till wo shall bo
completely reconciled, and havo buried tho seven stones,' At these
words tho drayhy also rose ; they drew and mutually presented their
sabers to bo kissed ; after which they embraced, and tho cxamplo wns
followed by their attendants. Mehanna with his lance made aa oponin<;
in tho ground, in tho center of the tent, about a foot in depth ; and
choosing seven small stones, ho sai>l to tho drayhy, ' In tho name o^ the
God of peace, for your guaranty and mine, we thus for ever bury our
discord.' As the stones were cast into the hole, tho two shokhs threw
earth over them, and trod it down with their feet ; tho women signaliz-
ing tho ceremony with deafening shouts of joy : at its termination tho
chiefs resumed their seats, and coffee was served. From that moment
it was no longer allowable to revert to the post, or to mention war. I
was assured that a reconciliation, to be according to rule, ought always
to be solemnized in this form."

Their united forces amounted to seven thousand and six hundred
tents, and tho drayhy now became chief of all the Bedouins of Syria.
Saker went to Homs to solicit the deliverance of Fares, whom ho brought
back attired in robes of honor, to take part in the general rejoicing.

Some days afterward the drayhy marched against the Wahabees,
who were besieging Palmyra, and encountered them at £1 Duah, with-
out coming to a pitched battle. " Here," says Fatallah, " I had leisure
to appreciate the advantage of the mardoufft in these wars of the des-
ert, in which it is always necessary to carry about the commissariat of
the army, and often for a considerable time. These camels, mounted
each by two soldiers, are like moving fortresses, provisioned with every
thing necessary for the nourbhment and defense of their riders. A
budget of water, a sack of flour, and another of dried dates, ajar of
sheep's butter, and the munitions of war, are formed into a sort of
square tower on the animal's back. The men, conveniently placed on
each side on seats composed of cordage, thus carry with them every
thing of which their temperate habits have need. When they are
hungry, they knead a little of the meal with butter, and eat it in that
state without baking ; a few dates and a small quantity of water com-
pleting their moderate repast : nor do they quit their post to sleep, but
throw themselves across the camel in the manner I have already de-
scribed." The next day's engagement was more serious, and on the third
the enemy fled, leaving the drayhy in possession of the field. Having
no longer any enemies to fear in the Syrian Desert, M. Lascaris went to
Homs to buy merchandize and write to Europe. They at length set out
to return, and at night their guides persuaded them not to halt till they
had completed the journey. In crossing a mountain at midnight. Fa-
tallah's horse lost its footing, and he was hurled down a tremendous

451

DE LASCIRIS'S SKCBET MISSION.

precipice. He was picked up inBcnsiblc, but lite was not quite extinct,
and though his recovery was despaired of for two or three mouths, ho
was finally restored to tolerable health.

The drayhy was obliged to pursue his migrations eastward, and M.
Lascaris remained with Fatallah. Ten months passed away, anr\ another
spring had come, when a courier announced to them the approach of
the Bedouins. In a few days they rejoined the drayhy, who was over-
joyed at the recovery of Fatallah. It was now reported that the Waha-
bees, who intended the conquest of Syria, were approaching with a
formidable army, which spread terror and devastation every where on
Its passage. The drayhy requested auxiliary troops of the Pasha of
Damascus, and " while waiting for the expected reinforcements," says
Fatallah, " he caused a solemn declaration of war to be made, according
to the custom of the Bedouins on very particular occasions, in the fol-
lowing form: A white female camel was selected, and blackened all
over with soot and oil ; reins made of black hair were then put over
her, and she was mounted by a young maiden dressed in black, with
her face and hands also blackened. Ten men led her from tribe to
tribe, and on reaching each she proclaimed aloud three times — ' Succor !
succor ! succor ! Which of you will make this camel white ? she is a
relic from the tent of the drayhy menacing ruin. Fly, fly, noble and
generous defenders I The Wahabees are coming 1 they will carry away
your allies and your brothers : all you who hear me, address your prayers
to the prophets Mohammed and Ah, the first and the last 1'

" Saying which, she distributed among the tribe handfhls of black
b".ir, and letters from the drayhy, indicating the place of rendezvous on
the banks of the Orontes."

The camp of the drayhy was soon augmented by the coalition of
thirty tribes, and the Pasha of Damascus sent his nephew Ibrahim Pasha
with ten thousand men to Hama, there to wait for other troops from
Acre and Aleppo. When they had met, the drayhy and Ibrahim Pasha,
assisted by Fatallah, arranged their plan of defense. In two days the
enemy appeared and established their camp, composed of fifty tribes
and seventy-five thousand tents, at one hour's distance from the allies.

" Ibrahim Pasha," continues Fatallah, " was in consternation, and
sent in great haste in search of the drayhy, who, having succeeded in
reanimating his courage a little, returned to the camp, to order the
necessary entrenchments. For this purpose all the camels were assem-
bled, bound together by their knees, and placed in double files in front
of the tents ; and, to complete the rampart, a trench was dug behind
them. The enemy on his part did the same, and the drayhy ordered
the Hatfe to be prepared. This singular ceremony consists in selecting
the most beautifhl among the Bedouin girls, to be placed lu a houdah,
richly ornamented, borne by a tall white camel. The choice of the
maiden who is destined to occupy this honorable but perilous post is very
important, for the success of the battle depends almost entirely upon

ilON.

vas not quite extinct,
» or three mouths, ho

ns eastward, and M.
ied away, anr*. another
lem the approach of
■ayhy, vho was over-
>ortcdthat theWaha-
1 approaching with a
ition every where on
3op8 of the Pasha of

reinforcements," says
to be made, according

occasions, in the fol-
ed, and blackened all
ir were then put over
aressed in black, with
led her from tribe to
three times — ' Succor!
camel white ? she is a
n. Fly, fly, noble and

1 they will carry away
le, address your prayers
. the last 1'

xibe handfuls of black
place of rendezvous on

ed by the coalition of
I nephew Ibrahim Pasha
for other troops from
yhy and Ibrahim Pasha,
inse. In two days the
composed of fifty tribes
stance from the allies.
s in consternation, and
lo, having succeeded in
the camp, to order the
the camels were assem-
in double files in front
trench was dug behind
md the drayhy ordered
my consists in selecting
be placed m a houdah,
lel. The choice of the
but perilous post is very
ds almost entirely upon

DEFEAT OF THE WAIIABEES.

466

lier. Placed opposite to the enemy, and surrounded by the bravest war-
riors, it is her duty to excite them to the combat : the principal action
always takes place around her, and prodigies of valor defend her. All
would be lost should the hatio fall into the enemy's hands ; and, to avoid
so irreparable a misfortune, half the army must always be stationed about
lier. Warriors succeed each other on this point, where the battle is
always hottest, and each comes to gather enthusiasm from her looks.
A girlnan-"d Arkia, uniting in an eminent degree courage, eloquence,
and beauty, wis chosen for our hatfe. The enemy also prepared his,
and the battle soon afterward commenced."

After several days of severe fighting, during which the drayhy's forces
suffered heavy loss, a last, desperate effort was made, resulting in the
total defeat of the Wahabees. The drayhy made a triumphal entrance
into Hama, escorted by the chiefs of the allied tribes, and was received
in a splendid manner by the governor and the agas.

Every day tribes arrived from the Nedjid country, deserting the
Wahabees to join the drayhy; some attracted by his extraordinary
reputation, others driven by dissensions with King Ebn Sihoud. M.
Lascaris now saw his hopes realized beyond his most sanguine anticipa-
tions ; but so long as any thing remained to be done he allowed him-
self no rest ; they therefore crossed the Tigris and entered Persia.
Here the fame of the drayhy had preceded him, and the tribes of the
country came to fraternize with him, but as M. Lascaris required the
co-operation of the great prince, chief of all the Persian tribes, the
Emir Sahid el Bokhrani, whose command extends to the frontiers of
India, they prolonged their journey to meet him. They dispatched
couriers to notify the emir of their approach, and he came to meet them
at the head of a formidable army. They were at first intimidated, but
he received them cordially, entered readily into their views, and fully
understood the importance of the commercial intercourse they were
desirous of establishing with India. He promised them the co-operation
of all the tribes of Persia under his dominion, and entered into a dis-
tinct treaty with them.

They returned by forced marches, and on arriving in Syria, re-
ceived a courier from the king of the Wahabees, who brought a little
piece of paper about three fingers in breadth, and twice as long. On
this was a long and imperious letter, concluding with a command to
come and see him without fear. On the reception of this letter, a coun-
cil of war was held, and after having deliberately weighed the perils of
the journey against the advantages of the alliance, the drayhy deter-
mined to comply with the authoritative invitation. He accordingly set
out with a small retinue, accompanied by Fatallah.

In a few days, they overtook a tribe of Wahabees, from whom they
Avere careful to conceal their pipes, for Ebn Sihoud prohibited smoking,
and punished any infraction of his laws with death. They soon reached
the Nedjid, a country intersected with mountains and valleys, studded

456

DB LASCARIS'S SECRET MISSION

with nomad camps, and abounding in towns and villages, the former of
which appear to bo very ancient, and attest a former population much
richer and more numerous than that by which they are now occupied.
The villages are peopled with Bedouin husbandmen ; and the soil pro-
duces corn, table vegetables, and dates, in abundance.

"At len..th," continues Fatallah, "after fourteen days' journey, at
the pace of our dromedaries, which may be reckoned at triple the dis-
tance traversed by a caravan in the same space of time we arnved m
the capital of the Wahabees. The city is surrounded and concealed by
a wood of palms, called the palm-trees of Darkisch, which serves it as a
rampart, and is so thickly planted as scarcely to admit the passage of a
horseman between the (rLks of the trees. Having made our way
through these, we came to a second barrier, composed f !>"!« j'^^J^
of dafe-stones, resembling a bank of small pebbles, and behind it the
town-wall, along which wo rode to the entrance-gate, and, passing
through it, soon reached the king's palace, a large edifice of two stories,
built of white hewn stones. . , -, j * \.„„.y.

"Ebn SUioud, on being informed of our anival, ordered us to be ush-
ered into an elegant and weU-furnished apartment, where a plentiful re-
past was set before us. This beginning seemed to augur well, and we
congratulated ourselves upon not having yielded to the suspicions which
had been sug<-ested to us. The same night, havmg suitably attired our-
sdves wo were presented to the king; whom we found to be about tor-
ty-five years of age, with a harsh countenance, a bronzed complexion,
and a venr black beard. Ho was dressed in a robe festened round the
bins by Zwhite sash, a striped turban of red and white on his head, and
a black embroidered mantle thrown over his left shoulder, holding in his
right hand the scepter of the king of Mahlab, the ensign of his au hority.
Sf was seated, suLunded by the grandees of his court, at theextremity

of a largo audience-chamber, richly furnished with mats, carpets and
cusWons The draperies, as well as the king's habU.ments were of cot-
Z or the wool of Yemen-silk being prohibited in his dommions, to-
^"her with every thing that would recall the luxury or customs of the

'^"^Ebn Sihoud greeted them coldly, and when, after a long saence, the
drayhy opted fhe conference, he fiercely replied in a series of charges
Sst X, and growing more and more exasperated as he spoke, con-
Sdbrorderin^g them to leave his presence, and await his pleasure.

t '

SION.

illages, the former of
ler population much
ey are now occupied,
en ; and the soil pro-
ice.

3cn days' journey, at
ncd at triple the dis-
jf time, we arrived in
ded and concealed by
1, which serves it as a
Jmit the passage of a
aving made our way
posed of little hillocks
ea, and behind it the
,cc-gate, and, passing
J edifice of two stories,

,1, ordered us to be ush-
t, where a plentiful rc-
l to augur well, and we
to the suspicions which
ing suitably attired our-
3 found to be about for-
a bronzed complexion,
)be fastened round the
I white on his head, and
shoulder, holding in his
! ensign of his authority.
s court, at the extremity
nth mats, carpets, and
labiliments, were of cot-
ted in his dominions, to-
uxury or customs of the

, after a long silence, the
ed in a series of charges
aerated as he spoke, con-
, and await his pleasure,
ed, but recollecting him-
ts they remained in their
le third day, the drayhy
the sight of twenty-five
he door. Again he sent
Uohim. ThoWahabee
id without respondmg to
ed. The drayhy replied

THE KINO OP THE WAHABEES.

457

with dignity, saying that on the strcngtii of hia promises, he had come
with only ten men while commanding thousands of warriors : he might
crush them like ashes, but from the frontier of India to the frontier of
NedjiJ, in Persia, in Bussora, in Mesopotamia, Heraad, the two Syrias,
Galilee, and Uoran, every man who wore the kaftan would take ven-
geance for his death. He appealed to his honor, to restore him to liis
country, and openly contend with him, and continued his remarks with
assurances that his death would not diminish his tribe, nor extinguish
the race of Cholan. The king gradually calmed himself after this ha-
rangue, and said : " Gro in peace ; nothing but good will happen to you."

Next day, Ebn Sihoud sent for them, and received them very gra-
ciously, and presently asked the drayhy about the persons who accom-
panied him. Fatallah trembled, for he knew the prejudices of the Wa-
habee. When the drayhy named him, the king, turning toward him,
said : " You are, then, Abdallah, the Christian ?" On his answering in
the affirmative, the king continued : *' I see that your actions are much
greater than your stature." After some further remarks, he demanded
the object of the alliance they had been laboring so many years to ac-
complish. Fatallah stated the desire of uniting all the Bedouins of Syria
under the command of the drayhy to resist the power of the Turks ; that
they had fought against the armies of Ebn Sihoud at Hama, simply be-
cause they were an obstacle to their projects. They were laboring for
the drayhy ; his power once established in Syria, Mesopotamia, and to
the confines of Persia, they were willing to enter into alliance with the
king, and become invulnerable in the possession of entire liberty. For
this purpose they had now come, and had proved the sincerity of their
intentions. The king's countenance cleared up as Fatallah spoke, and
when he had ceased, he expressed his satisfaction. Then turning to his
slaves, he ordered three cups of coffee, which, among the Bedouins, is a
mark of the highest consideration. The rest of the visit passed off well,
and they retired well satisfied.

" So delighted was I with the recovery of my liberty," says Fatallah,
*' that I spent all the next day in walking about and visiting every part
of Darkisch and its environs. The town, built of white stone, contains
seven thousand inhabitants, almost all kinsmen, ministers, or genentls of
Ebn Sihoud. No artizans are found there. The only trades exercised
in tho town are those of armorers and farriers, and few persons are en-
gaged even in them. Nothing is to be purchased, not even food, for
which every one depends on his own means — that is to say, upon an
estate or garden, producing com, vegetables, and fruits, and affording
nourishment to a few fowls. Their numerous herds browse in the plain ;
and every Wednesday the inhabitants of Yemen and Mecca assemble to
exchange their merchandise for cattle ; a species of fair, which forms the
sole commerce of the country. The women appear unvailed, but throw
their black mantles over their faces — a very disgraceful custom : they
are generally ugly and excessively dark-complexioned. The gardens,

458 DE LASCARIS'S SECRET MISSION.

situated in a charming valley near the town, on the opposilc side to that
by which we had entered, produce the finest fruits in the world —
bananas, oranges, pomegranates, figs, apples, melons, etc., intermixed
with barley and maize — and are carefully watered.

" The next morning, the king again summoned us to him, received
us very graciously, and questioned me closely respecting the various
European sovereigns, especially Napoleon, for whom he testified great
admiration. Nothing delighted him so much as the recital of the em-
peror's conquests ; and happily my frequent intercourse with M. Laacaris
had furnished me with many details to entertain liim with. At the
account of every battle, he would exclaim — ' Surely this man is an emis-
sary of God : I am persuaded he must be in intimate communion with
his Creator, since he is thus singularly favored.' His affability toward mo
having gradually but rapidly increased, he suddenly changed the subject
of conversation, and said at last, ' Abdallah, I desire to hear the truth
iVom you : what is the basis of Christianity?' Aware of the Wahabee's
^ rejudices, I trembled at this question ; but mentally praying for Divine
inspiration, 'The basis of all religion, O son of Sihoud!' I said, 'is belief
in God. The Christians deem, as you do, that there is one only God,
the Creator of the universe ; who punishes the wicked, pardons the peni-
tent, and recompenses the good; that He alone is great, merciful,
and almighty.' 'Very well,' said he; 'but how do you pray?' I re-
peated the Paternoster; he made his secretary write at my dictation,
read and re-read it, and placed it inside his vest ; then, pursuing his in-
terrogatory, asked me to which side we turned to pray. 'We pray on
all sides,' answered I, 'for God is everywhere.' 'That opinion I entirely
approve,' said he ; ' but you must have precepts as well as prayers.' I
repeated the ten commandments given by God to His prophet Moses,
which he appeared to know, and continued his inquiries. ' And Jesus
Christ — in what light do you consider him?' ' As the Incarnate Word
of God.' ' But he was crucified ?' ' As the Divine Word, he could not
die ; but as man, he suffered for the sins of the wicked.' ' That is mar-
velous. And the sacred book which God inspired through Jesus Christ,
is it revered among you? do you exactly conform to this doctrine?'
' We preserve it with the greatest reverence, and m all things obey its
injunctions.' ' The Turks,' said he, 'have made a god of their prophet,
and pray over his tomb like idolaters. Cursed be those who ascribe to
the Creator an equal ! may the saber exterminate them !' The king ap-
peared delighted with our conversation, and said to me — ' I see that we
may always learn something. I have hitherto believed the Christians to
be the most superstitious of men; but I am now convinced that they ap-
proach much nearer to the true religion than the Turks.' "

For several days they met in secret conclave with Ebn Sihoud, and
an alliance was concluded between him and the drayhy to their mutual
satisfaction, the king declaring that their two bodies should be hence-
forth directed by one soul. He then invited them, for the first time, to

mim

wmmm-

ION.

opposilo side to that
lits in the world —
ns, etc., intermi.\ed

[ us to him, received

ipecting the various

n he testified great

he recital of the em-

irso with M. Laacaris

liim with. At the

this man is an emis-

ate communion with

affability toward me

changed the subject

•e to hear the truth

TO of the Wahabee's

y praying for Divine

lid!' I said, 'is belief

3re is one only God,

ed, pardons the peni-

3 is great, merciful,

you pray?' I re-
rite at my dictation,
hen, pursuing his in-
pray. ' We pray on
hat opinion I entirely

1 well as prayers.' I
His prophet Moses,

quiries. ' And Jesus
the Incarnate Word
! Word, he could not
ked.' 'That is mar-
through Jesus Christ,
m to this doctrine?'
in all things obey its
;od of their prophet,
those who ascribe to
hem !' The king ap-
o me — ' I see that we
ived the Christians to
nvinced that they ap-
urks.' "

ivith Ebn Sihoud, and
•ayhy to their mutual
dies should be hence-
, for the first time, to

DEATH 0I-' DK LASCAUIS.

469

oat with him, and tasted each dish before it ^^as oftbrea to them. "As
he had never seen any one eat otherwise than with their fingers," says
Fatallah, "I carved a spoon and fork out of a piece of wood, spread my
handkerchiet for a napkin, and ate my dinner after the European fashion
which highly diverted him. 'Thanks be to (4od!' said he, 'every
nation believes its customs the best possible, and each is therefore coil-
tent with its condition.' "

When they returned to their tribe .and had recovered from tlu i
fatigues, M. Lascaris told Fatallah that .ill was accomplishe.! an.i
they must now return to give an account of their mi. 5on. They lel't
their friends, in the hope of soon seeing them, at the head of the ex-
pedition to which they had opened the way. They reached Constanti-
nople m April, after ninety days' traveling, frequently across tracts of
snow Constantinople w.as ravaged by the plague, and during tlire.
months spent in quarantine they heard of the burning of Moscow. M
Lascaris was in despair, and .it length determined to return to Syria
there to await the issue of events. They embarked, but a violent stornl
drove them to Chios, where they again encoimtercd the pla"-ue Having
lost their property in the tempest, and being cut ofl" from e°xternal conl^
munication by the contagion, they were neariy without clothinrr, and
exposed to the greatest privations. Communications being at fengtii
restored, M. Lascaris went to a conference with Generals Lallemandaud
Savary, at Smyrna, .ind .illowod Fatallah m(>aiiw hile to visit his mother
whom he had not seen for six years, '

While staying at Latakia with his motlior, niul daily expcctin<r the
.irrival of a ship which might convoy hint to K-ypt, whither ]\[" Las-
caris hail ordered liini to repair, Fatall.ah saw a French brig of war
enter the port, and hastened to inquire for letters. But the letters
only brought the afflicting intelligence of the decease of his bene&ctor
at Cair

MlllpiiipillpMIHI

mmm

DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON'S

EXPEDITION TO CENTRAL AFRICA.

Aptku the unsuccessful attempt of Messrs. Ritchie and Lyon to no-
netiate to the interior of Africa, h. 1819, the British government dcter-
mmcd to fit out an exi)edition on a more Uberal scale, for the purnoso
of establishing friendly and commercial relations with some of'tlie al
most unknown countries of Soudan. Dr. Oudney first volunteered his
services, and, whUe his plan was under consideration, met with Lieu-
tenant Clapperton, of the royal navy, in Edinburg, in the year 1820
He communicated his design to the latter, who immediately expressed
us desire to be associated with him, and the offer was accepted by Lord
liathurst, then Secretary of State. While the preparations for the ex-
pedition were going forward. Major Denham volunteered to undertake
a journey across the Desert to Timbuctoo, but was afterward, at his own
request, associated with Oudney and Clapperton, and received the com
mand of the expedition.

On arriving at Malta, Denham engaged the services of William IliU-
man, a shipwright in the dock-yard at La Valetta, the latter havinc. vol-
unteered his services on condition of receiving i;i20 a year Oudnev
and Clapperton had already proceeded to Tripoli, where Denham a;.
nved on the 18th of November, 1821. The three travelers immediatelv
called upon the p^ha, who received them kindly, and promised to fo^
ward the party safely into the interior. They were detained, however,
for three or four months, before their preparations were completed, and
a favorable opportunity occurred for proceeding to Mourzuk, the capital
of Fezzan. " On the 5th of March, 1822," says Major Denham, "I left
thThnr t'.^ ^'"•^'"*^'^' t^ J«'" '»>■ t«o companions, who iiad advanced
on to m! ''"'' ''"'"''' '"''''"'' *^*'""^«' "^"^ ^^^P^^''- They had gone

colois, nchly scattered m beautiful disorder-but it was the last of the
kind we were fortunate enough to meet with between this place and

464

TRAVELS OP DENIIAM AND CLAPPERTON.

Artor fourteen days' travel they reaelied Sockna, a town about half-
way between Tripoli and Mourzuk. They were met by the governor
and principal inhabitants, accompanied by some hundreds of the coun-
try people, who crowded around their horses, kissing their hands, and
welcoming them with every appearance of sincerity and satisfiiction.
This reception M'as very encouraging to them, as they had determined,
on setting out, to wear the Frank dress, and to pass for Englishmen and
Christians, on all occasions. While walking in the streets of Sockna,
wo boys accosted them, saying that a beautiful woman wished to see
<hem. "We put ourselves under their guidance," writes Denham, "and
entering a better sort of dwelling-house, Avere quickly surrounded by at
least half a dozen ladies, most of them aged ; but who asked us a thou-
sand questions, and, when satisfied we were not dangerous, called
several yoimger ones, who appeared to be but waiting for permission to
appear. Our dresses and ourselves were then minutely examined. The
yellow buttons on our waistcoats, and our watches, created the greatest
astonishment ; and a pair of loose white trowsers that I wore, into the
pockets of which I accidentally put my hands, raised their curiosity to
a wonderful degree : my hands were pulled out, and those of three or
four of the ladi"s thrust in, in their stead ; these were replaced by others,
all demanding their use so loudly and violently, that I had considerable
difficulty in extricating myself, and was glad to make my escape."

The remaining half of the journey to Mourzuk was more difficult
and dangerous than the first. They were sometimes two or three days
without finding a supply of water, which was generally muddy, bitter,
and brackish ; in addition to which they encountered a severe sand-
storm. The spot was pointed out to them, strewed with bones and
dried carcases, where, the year before, fifty sheep, two camels, and two
men perished from thirst and fatigue, when within eight hours' march
of a well which the travelers were then anxiously looking for. On the
7th of April they arrived at a village in the midst of a vast multitude of
palm-trees, just one day's journey short of Mourzuk. They had ne-
glected sending word to advise the Sultan of their approach, and their
reception, consequently, was less brilliant than at Sockna. As they drew
near the walls of the city, the next afternoon, they halted to await the
rotiun of a messenger whom they had dispatched to give notice of their
arrival. After half an hour's delay, the governor of the town came out,
and in the sultan's name requested that they would accompany him to
the house which had been prepared for them, adding, to their great
surprise, that the English consul was there already. " The fact was,"
JMajor Denham adds, "that a very ill-looking Jew servant of mine,
mounted on a white mule, with a pair of small canteens under him, had
preceded the camels and entered the town by himself. He was received
with great respect by all the inhabitants — conducted through the streets
to the house which was destined to receive us ; and from the circum-
stance of the canteens being all covered with brass shining nails, a very

mmm

l«MI

.PPERTON.

:na, a town about half-
met by the governor
lundrciis of the coun-
issing their hands, and
crity and satisfaction,
they had determined,
iss for Englishmen and
the streets of Sockna,
Avoman wished to see
' writes Denham, " and
ckly surrounded by at
, who asked us a tliou-
not dangerous, called
liting for permission to
nutely examined. The
es, created the greatest
rs that I wore, into the
lised their curiosity to
and those of three or
vere replaced by others,
;hat I had considerable
make my escape."
zuk was more difficult
imes two or three days
generally muddy, bitter,
untered a severe sand-
rewed with bones and
ip, two camels, and two
thin eight hours' march
ly looking for. On the
st of a vast multitude of
ourzuk. They had ne-
leir approach, and their
, Sockna. As they drew
hey halted to awjut the
id to give notice of their
)r of the town came out,
rould accompany him to
I, adding, to their great
;ady. "The fact was,"
Jew servant of mine,
canteens under liim, had
imsclf. He was received
icted through the streets
; and from the circum-
trass shining ntuls, a very

i. «: ■■

J-J'i

-7^5

J//^

Ihm' I

I'^r^i

"^^

mrnvf

DELAY AT MOURZDK.

4G5

liigh idcn of his consequence was formotl. He very senHiMy received nil
tlieir nttentions in silence, and drunk tlu> cool water and milk which was
Iinnded to him : und wo always liad the laugli agaiimt them atterward,
for having shown so much civility to an Israelite — a race they heartily
despise. ' Wo thought the English,' Haid they, ' were better looking
than tlie Jews— death to their race ! — but then God made us all, though
not all handsome like Mussulmen, so who could tell ?' "

Their interview with the sultan of Fezzan was any thing but en-
couraging, lie told them tlmt there was no intention, as they liad been
led to expect, of any expedition to proceed to the southward for some
time to come ; tl.at an army could only move in the spring of the year ;
that the arrangements for moving a body of men through a country
where every necessary must be carried on camels, both for men and
horses, were so numerous, that before the following spring it was scarcely
possible to complete them, as two camels were required for every man
and liorse, and one for every two men on foot. lie read to them the
letter of the Pasha of Tripoli, in which it was stated that they were
commended to his protection, and were to be pennitted to reside in
Mourzuk, or any other part of Fezzan, until ho (the sultan) had paid a
visit to Tripoli. The travelers returned to their house with very dis-
heaitened feelings. The heat was intense, the thermometer standing at
97° in the shade.

In a few days after this their hopes were revived by a visit from a
rich native merchant, named Boo-Khaloom, who was on the eve of start-
ing for Tripoli, with handsome presents for the pasha. His secret er-
rand was to obtain the removal of Mustapha, the sultan, who, he well
knew, was employing his emissaries in Tripoli to have his head taken
off after his arrival there. Boo-Khaloom desired to accompany the
travelers to Bomou ; his own caravan, with the merchants who would
join him, would be sufficient protection for them. Soon after this con-
versation, he left for Tripoli, and was followed, in a few days, by the
sultan, who not only stripped Mourzuk of its stores of supplies, but took
with hin> all the camels that were to be had. Thus the expedition was
deprived of the means of proceeding further, and it was immediately
decided that Major Denham should return to Tripoli, in order to pro-
cure the necessary animals and supplies there.

Leaving Mourzuk on the 20th of May, accompanied only by his ne-
gro servant Barca, and two Arabs, he set out, making the journey in
twenty days. Denhaia at once applied for an audience with the pasha,
to whom he represented, in the strongest terms, their disappointment at
the delay, and requested that he should fix a specified time for their de-
parture for Bomou. " A voyage to Marseilles, on my way to England,
was the consequence of our altercation with the pasha ; and the prompti-
tude with which it was decided upon and carried into effect, by means
of a small French vessel, which, at the time, most fortunately lay in the
harbor, was not without its good effects. The pasha sent three dispatches

li'l

■4*):

iSI

466

TRAVELS OP DBNHAM AND CLAPPERTON.

after mc, by three tlifferent vessels, to Leghorn, Malta, and the port I
had sailed to, which I received in quarantine, informing ne that Boo-
Khaloom was appointed with an escort to convey us forthwith to Bor-
nou. This was every thing I wished for ; and immediately re-embarking,
a seven days' passage brought me once more to the shores of Barbary."
Accompanied by Boo-Khaloom, the traveler started for Mourzuk, by
way of Sockna, where he arrived on the 2d of October. B oo-Khaloom's
weakness was a love of pomp and show, and he entered the town in great
state, mounted on a whit*, horse which the Pasha of Tripoli had given
him. Two or three days afterward he became seriously ill, and insisted
on Major Denham prescribing for him, saying : " I am quite sure you
can cure me, if it is the will of God that I shall live ; if not, nobody
can." The prescriptions were finally successful, although his life was
despaired of for two days.

They entered Mourzuk on the 30th of October. Boo-Khaloom, who
was a truly charitable and benevolent man, was so popular in the place,
that on his returning to it not only safe, but standing high in the pasha's
favor, half of the inhabitants came out to meet him, shouting and singing,
to express their joy. Major Denham was disappointed that none of his
friends came out to meet him, but soon learned that they had all been
very ill with fever and ague, from which Clapperton had not yet recov-
ered. During his absence, they had made a journey to Ghraat, the chief
to\*'n of the Tuarick tribe, situated in the desert, twenty days' journey
Avest of Mourzuk. They were now happily imited, and at once set about
preparing for their further travels. The party consisted of thirteen per-
sons — ^Denham, Clapperton, and Oudney ; Hillman, the carpenter ; a
native of St. Vincent, who, on account of his voyages around the globe,
Avas nicknamed Columbus ; a Gibraltar Jew, who acted as storekeeper ;
three free negro servants, and four camel-drivers. They were also ac-
companied by several merchants from Mesurata, Tripoli, Sockna, and
Mourzuk, who gladly eiabraced the protection of their escort to proceed
to the interior with their merchandize. The procuring of camels and
supplies for the long journey across the desert, occupied some time, and
the caravan did not leave Mourzuk, finally, until the 29th of November.

In three days they arrived at Gatrone, whither Oudney, Clapperton,
and Hillman had already proceeded, hoping to improve their health by
the change of air. Denham found them still sick, however, especially
the last. Mho had been twice given over by the doctor. They moved on
slowly to the town of Tegerry, the last place in Fezzan, and there halted
three or four days to rest the sick, as beyond this they should travel for
fifteen days over a desert, where it would be necessary to march from
sunrise until dark. There is a well near the gate of the fortress of Te-
gerry, the water of which, the travelers were gravely informed, always
rose when a caravan was coming near the town. The inhabitants stated
that they always prepared what they had to sell, on seeing this Avater
increase in bulk, for it never deceived them. " In proof of this asser-

PPERTON.

alta, and the port I
rming ne that Boo-
18 fov.hwith to bor-
iiately re-embarking,
shores of Barbary."
ted for Mourzuk, by
ber. Boo-Khaloom'8
Bred the town in great
of Tripoli had given
iously ill, and insisted
I am quite sure you
I live ; if not, nobody
although his life was

•. Boo-Khaloom, who
) popular in the place,
ing high in the pasha's
., shouting and singing,
ointed that none of his
that they had all been
ton had not yet recov-
ley to Ghraat, the chief
b, twenty days' journey
d, and at once set about
ansisted of thirteen per-
man, the carpenter; a
pges around the globe,
acted as storekeeper ;
•fl. They were also ac-
ta, Tripoli, Sookna, and
f their escort to proceed
rocuring of camels and
ccupied some time, and
the 29th of November,
ler Oudney, Clapperton,
improve their health by
sick, however, especially
doctor. They moved on
Fezzan, and there halted
is they should travel for
lecessary to march from
;e of the fortress of Te-
;ravely informed, always
The inhabitants stated
ell, on seeing this water
" In proof of this asser-

MAROH ACROSS THE DESERT.

467

tion," says Major Dcnham, " they pointed out to me how much higlier
the water had been previous to our arrival than it was at tiie moment wo
were standing on the brink. This I could have cxplsuncd by the num-
ber of camels tliiit had drunk at it, but I saw it was better iu)licy to be-
lieve what every body allowed to be true. Even Boo-Klialoom exclaim-
ed : ' Allah ! God is great, powerful, and wise ! How wonderful !
Oh !' "

On the 13th of December the caravan left Tegerry, and entered on
a desert plain, where the sick were constantly disheartuned by the sight
of the skulls and skeletons of men who had perished on the sands. On
the 22d Denham writes : " During the last two days, we liave passed on
an average from sixty to eighty or ninety skeletons each day ; but the
ni'.mbers that lay about the wells at El-Hammar were countless. Those
of two women, whose perfect and regular teeth bespoke them young,
were particularly shocking ; their arras still remained clasped around
each other as they had expired, although the flesh had long since per-
ished by being exposed to the burning rays of the sun, and the black-
ened bones only left. The nails of the fingers, and some of the sinews of
the hand, also remained, and part of the tongue of one of them still ap-
peared through the teeth." Two days after this, one of Denham's she-
camels foaled, and he looked forward to enjoying the milk, which, the
Arabs assured him, she would have in abundance ; but all at once the
animal suddenly fell and died. " The evil-eye — the evil-eye !" the Arabs
exclaimed, and some of them added : " She was sure to die. I knew
it." — " Well, if she had been mine, I would rather have lost a child, or
three slaves !" — " God be pi-aised ! God is great, powerful, and wise :
those looks of the people are always fatal."

On the 1st of January, 1823, they reached a little oasis called Wady
Ikbar, and were cheered by the sight of doum-palms laden with fruit,
and grass in abundance. Three days more brought them to the village
of Anay, the first Tibboo town, which is built upon the summit of a sand-
stone rock, a hundred feet high. The inhabitants ascend by means of
ladders, which they d raw up after them, whenever they are attacked by
their enemies, the Tuaricks. The Sultan of the Tibboos was visituig
another village in the neighborhood, and sent word to Boo-Khaloom
that he would join the caravan and keep company with him as far as
Bilma, the capital of his country. He made his appearance the next
day. " He had neither much majesty nor cleanliness of appearance : he
came to Boo-Khaloom's tent, accompanied by six or seven Tibboos, some
of them really hideous. They take a quantity of snuff, both in their
mouths and noses ; their teeth were of a deep yellow ; the nose resem-
bles nothing so much as a round lump of flesh stuck on the face, and
the nostrils are so large that their fingers go up as far as they will reach,
in order to insure the snuff an admission into the head."

After entering the Tibboo country, the villages were numerous ; the
sterile, burning desert was exchanged for a broken country, intersected

468

TRAVELS

OF DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.

■

. , ■, 1 i...v.tvallr>vq the beds of which were covered with grass

:;^t:^°"o:; o;^KSg'it *gcMhe u,haM.^.« »!».,. ..«^

Mid tiios. y''°''/ . " i „,,o„ within about My paces of tho

*■"'' SS: t''n;:r Bo'KS c'L., U ^ea o„

r" t?l?ho d^minea to «nd out a maraading party to plunder

the road that he ^«'^'"«V ,„^^ji„„ which was Banctioned by tlic

ilTafch wL Icept, through fear that the owner, would endeavor to

attended by some J ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^ ^

r:X: r^^dS^r w^ng theu^eVea a^t wUh ;

xng eatures whde t^^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^ ^^j^„g„,,, A ,,

contrasted with the glo^WacK^ ^^ ^^^.^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^.^^^

iCtlrtht fdiSf^^^^^^^^^ in the nose and large amber necU-

KhaloonTtent and on turning over the prints of the naUves, h^ swo^-e
and exclaimed, and insisted upon it, that he knew every face Ih^ was
L,.h a one's slave— that was his own ; he was right ; he knew t.
WdreGod foHhe talents he gave theEngUsh! f ^ were ^Aa^'''
oWer exceedingly clever.' Of a landscape, however, I fomid that he
clcNei, exceeoin ly i- .^ understand the in-

had not t^;« i«-';;i«^^;X^^l^^^^^ the deseit, which is really so

:rreiierbyca;L"^

Wn and when I twice reversed it for him, he exclaimed 'Why
? ' ut Tthe same" A camel or a human figure was all I could
2 hi: uttunTand at these he was all agitation and deUght
^f wonderful!' The eyes first took his «"«f -' ^^^^^j^^^

under similar circumstances." , ^

Beyond Bilma the desert commenced again, and their route, lor

nil

'PERTON. I

e covered with grass ;
l)itants alwaya camo j
It fifty paces of the 1
Bort of drum, which i
two days to rest at a j
camels had fallen on i
ling party to plunder ,
was sanctioned by the ,
to the proper route,
il nights afterward a
jrs would endeavor to ,

e reached Bilma, the .
ir sultan, who, having

a mile from the town
ible the number of the
ws and arrows, and all
, shaking them in the

all moved on toward
themselves about with
inal. They were of a
saving extremely pleaa-
ar teeth was beautifully
Lnd the triangular flaps
f their faces, streaming
3 and large amber neck- ;

in Lyon's book in Boo- ;
)fthe natives, he swore,
r every face: 'This was
an right; he knew it.
iglish ! they were ahatr,
wever, I found that ho

him understand the in-
Icscit, which is really so
would look at it upside

he exclaimed: 'Why!
an figure was all I could
1 agitation and delight,
attention, then the other
,ed,' Allah 1 Allah!' and
:e is the powder?' This
mt a man, excited at first

d an European have felt

ain, and their route, for

FIRST SIGHT OF LAKE TCHAD.

469

several days, w.xs over broad plains of billowy sand, witliniit any sijjn of
vegetation. They sometimes found wells of bitter water in the hollows,
but fi-cquently saw none for two or three days together. Many camels
fell and died on this march ; the heat was very oppressive ; but as the
sick were much better than they had been, the travelers were all in good
spirits.

liy this time they had passed the latitude which is the northern limit
of the tropical rains, and "on the 27th,"' says Major Denham, " we ap-
peared to be gradually approaching something resembling vegetation :
we had rising sands and clumps of fine grass the whole way, and the
country was not unlike some of our heaths in England. Toward even-
ing the trees increased greatly in number, and where wo halted the
animals found abundance of food. The tuUoh-trcc^, the kossorn (a very
beautiful parasitic plant), and the herbage, were most refreshing to our
parched feelings, although in reality they were of the most dingy green
and stunted appearance."

RECEPTION IN BORNOU.

On the 31st there were still more marked signs of their approach to
Bomou. "We reached a well where some really sweet milk was
brought to us in immensely large basket bottles, some holding two gal-
lons or more. No traveler in Africa should imagine that this he could
not bear, or that could not be endured. It is Avonderful how a man's
taste conforms itself to his necessities. Six months ago, camels' milk
would have acted upon us as an emetic ; now we thought it a most
refreshing and grateful cordial. The face of the co\mtry improved in
appearance every mile. We passed along to-day what seemed to us a
most joyous valley, smiling in flowery grasses, tulloh-trees, and kossom.
About mid-day, we halted in a luxurious shade, the ground covered Avith
creeping vines of the colocynth in full blossom, which, with the red
flowers of the kossom which drooped over our heads, made our resting-
place a little Arcadia." Boo-Klialoom now judged it expedient to send
a messenger in advance with lettere to Shekh El-Kanemy, the chief of
Bomou, giving news of the approach of the expedition.

On the 4th of February, they reached the town of Lari, the inhabit-
ants of which fled in all directions, ui the greatest terror, on perceiving
the caravan. " Beyond the town, however," says Major Denham, " was
an object fiill of interest to us, and the sight of which conveyed to my
mind a sensation so gratifying and inspiring, that it would be difficult in
language to convey an idea of its force or pleasure. The great Lake
Tchad, glowing with the golden rays of the sun in its strength, appeared
to be within a mile of the spot on which we stood. My heait bounded
within me at this prospect, for 1 believed this lake to be the key to the
great object of our searcli, and I could not refrain from silently im-
ploring Heaven's continued protection, which had enabled us to pro-

':\.

470

TRAVELS OF DENRAM AND CLAPPERTON.

ceod so far in hoaltU ami strength, even lo tlie acconiplishment of onr
task. By sun-rise next morning I was on the borders of the lake, an leil
for tlie destruction of the multitude of birds, who, all unconscious of my
purpose, seemed to welcome our arrival. Flocks of geese and vild
ducks, c/f a most beautiful plumage, were quietly feeding at half pistol-
Khot of where I stood. As I moved toward them they only changed
their jilaces a little to tlie right or left, and appeared to have no idea of
the hostility of my intentions. Pelicans, cranes, four and five feet in
height, gray, variegixted and white, were scarcely so many yards fro'n
my side, and a bird, between a snijte and a woodpecker, resembling
both and larger than either; immense spoonbills of a snowy whiteness,
widgeon, ti-al, yellow-legged plover, and a hundred species of unknown
water-fowl were sporting before me ; and it was long before I could
disturb the tranquillity of the dwellers on these waters by firing a gun.

^.o*.*-'

LAKE TCHAD.

" In the evening I visited the town of Lari. It stands on an emi-
nence, and may probably contain two thousand inhabitants. The buts
are b\ult of the rush which grows by the sides of the lake, have conical
tops, and look like well-thatched stacks of corn in England. They have
neat inclosures around them, made with fences of the same reed, and
passages leading to them like labyrinths. In the indosuro is a goat or
two, poultry, and sometimes a cow. The womeiV Mere almost all si>in-
ning cotton, which grows well, though not abundantly, near the town
and lake. The interior of the huts is neat. They are comjjletely circu-

'PERTON.

oiuplishmunt of onv
rs of the lake, an icd
11 unconsciotis of my

of geese and vikl
ueding at half i)is*;ol-
\ they only changed
1 to have no idea of
)dr and five feet in
io many yards fro in
dpecker, resembling
f a snowy whiteness,

species of unknown
long before I could
ters by firhig a gun.

'X stands on an emi-
habitants. The buts
;he lake, have conical
England. They have
f the same reed, and
nrlosuro is a goat or
were almost all spin-
lantly, near the town
are completely circu-

APPROACH TO KOUKA.

471

lar, Avith no admission for air or light, excei)t at the door, which has a
mat by way ol safeguard. I entered one of the best appearance,
although the owner gave me no smiles of encouragement, and followed
close at ray heels, with his sjiear and dagger in his hand. In one cor-
ner stood the bed, a sofa of ruslies lashed together, and supported by
six poles, fixed strongly in the ground. This was covered \\ ith the skins
of the tiger-oat and wild bull ; around the sides were hung the wooden
bowls used for water and milk : his tall shield rested against the wall.
The hut had a division of mat-work, one half being alloted to the female
part of the family."

Two days after this they arrived at the town of Woodie, where, on
account of Boo-Khaloom and his Arabs, it was necessary to wait until
the shekh of Bornou should send his permission to proceed. The town
is about one mile west of the lake, and four days' march from Kotika,
the capital of Bornou. The people have fish and game in abimdanoe,
and are very indolent, the men lying idly in their huts from morning till
night. After waituig four days, two of the shekh's oflicers arrived with
the necessary permission, and a present of some of the goroo nuts of
Soudan, which have an agreeably bitter taste, and are much esteemed
by the people of Tripoli. After eating these nuts, water has a grateful
flavor, be it ever so bad. The Arabs call them the coflfee of the black
country. Proceeding southward for two days more, through a fertile,
thickly-inhabited country, they came to a river called the Yeou — a
stream fifty yards wide, with a hard, sandy bottom, and flowing eastward
at the rate of three and a half miles an hour. The goods and passengers
of the caravan were ferried across in canoes, to which the bridles of the
horses and camels were attached, and the animals made to swim.

On the 16th of February the expedition halted within one hour's
march of Kouka, in order to make the entry in state next day. Major
Denham's account of what then took place is too characteristic and in-
teresting to be omitted. " This was to us a momentous day," he writes,
" and it seemed to be equally so to our conductors. Notwithstanding
all the difliculties that had presented themselves at- the various stages of
our journey, we were at last within a few short miles of our destination,
were about to become acquainted with a people who had never seen,
or scarcely heard of, a European, and to tread on ground the knowledge
and true situation of which had hitherto been wholly unknown. Our
accounts of the state of this country had been so contradictory, that no
opinion could be formed as to the real condition or the numbers of its
ujhabitants. The degree of credit which might bo attached to the dif-
ferent reports was nearly balanced in the scales of probability ; and we
advanced toward the town of Kouka in a most interesting state of un-
certainty whether we should find its chief at the head of thousands, or
be received by him under a tree, surrounded by a few naked slaves.

" These doubts, however, were quickly removed. I had ridden on
a short distance in front of Boo-Khaloom, with his train of Arabs, all

472

TRAVELS OP DBNHAM AND CLAPPERTON.

mounted and dressed out in their best ai)parel, and, fiom the thickness
of the trees, soon lost sight of them, fancying that the road could not
be mistaken. I rode stUl onward, and on approaching a spot less thickly
l)lanted, was not a little surprised to see in front of me a body of several
thousand cavalry drawn up in line, and extending right and leR as for as
I could see ; and, checking my horse, I awaited the arrival of my party,
under the shade of a wide-spreading acacia. The Bornou troops re-
mained quite steady, without noise or confusion ; and a few horsemen,
who were moving about in front giving directions, were the only persons
out of the ranks. On the Arabs appearing in sight, a shout or yell was
given by the shekh's people, which rent the air. A blast was blown from
their rude instruments of music equally loud, and they moved on to
meet Boo-Khaloom and his Arabs. There was an appearance of tact
and management m their movements which astonished me. Tliree sep-
arate small bodies, from the center and each flank, kept charging rapidly
toward us, to within a few feet of our horses' heads, without checking
the speed of their own, until the moment of their halt, while the whole
body moved onward. These parties were mounted on small but very
perfect horses, which stopped, and wheeled from their utmost speed with
great precision and expertncss, shaking their spears over their heads,
and exclaiming: '■Blessing! blessing! sons of your country! sons of
your country ." and returning quickly to the front of the body, in order
to r jpeat tu? charge. While all this w.as going on, they closed in their
riyht and left ilanks, and surrounded the little body of Arab warriors so
completely, as to ^ive the compliment of welcoming them, very much
ihe appearance of contempt for their weakness. I am quite sure this
was premeditated. Wo were all so closely pressed as to be nearly
smothered, and in some danger from the crowding of the horses and
the clashing of the spear;. Moving on Avas impossible, and we therefore
came to a full stop. Our chief was much enraged, but it was all to no
purpose ; he was only answered by shrieks of ' Welcome !' and spears
most unpleasantly rattled over our heads, expressive of the same feeling.
This annoyance was not, however, of long duration. Barca Gana, the
shekh's first general, a negro of a noble aspect, clothed in a figured silk
tobe and mounted on a beautiful Mandara horse, made his appearance ;
and after a little delay the rear was cleared of those who had pressed
in upon us, and we moved on.

"The shekh's negroes, as they were called, meaning the black chiefs
and favorites, all raised to that rank by some deed of bravery, were
habited in coats of mail composed of iron cham, which covered them
from the throat to the knees, dividing behind, and coming on each side
of the horse : some of them had helmets, or rather skull-caps, of the
same metal, with chin-pieces, all sufliciently stron'* to ward off the shock
of a spear. Their horses' heads were also gj*^ ii'led by plates of iron,
brass, and silver, just leaving sufficient room for the eyes of the animal.
"At length, on arriving at the gate of the town, ourselves, Boo-

?PERTON.

, from the thickness
the road could not ,
ng a spot less thickly ,
me a body of several j
ight and left as far as .
! arrival of my party, j
10 Bornou troops re- |
and a few horsemen, j
were the only persons j
t, a shout or yell was i
L blast was blown from
id they moved on to ]
m appearance of tact j
shed me. Tliree sep- |
kept charging rapidly ;
ads, without checking |

halt, while the whole |
tod on small but very ,
leir utmost speed with i
3ar8 over their heads,
our country! sons of
tofthebody, in order
n, they closed in their
dy of Arab warriors so
»ming them very much

I am quite sure this ,

•essed as to be nearly ,
ling of the horses and

isible, and we therefore
± but it was all to no
Welcome!' and spears
live of the same feeling,
ition. Barca Gana, the

;lothed in a figured silk

, made his appearance ;

;hose who had pressed

■leaning the black chiefs
J deed of bravery, were
In, which covered them
Ind coming on each side
[ather skull-caps, of the
)" to ward off the shock
ii'led by plates of iron,
I the eyes of the animal,
town, ourselves, Boo-

CEREMONIES OP RECEPTION.

473

Khaloom and about a dozen of his followers, were altme allowed to enter
the gates ; and we proceeded along a wide street completely Uncd with
8j)carmen on foot, with cavalry in front of them, to the door of the shekh's
residence. Here the horsemen were formed up three deep, and we
caino to a atand : some of the chief attendants came out and after a great
many ' Jiurca ! bm'ca''s .'' retired, when others performed the same

H.<JR»,-G«.*-'<-
BODY-OOARD OP THE SHEKH OP BOENOU.

ceremony. "We were now again left sitting on our horses in the sun;
Boo-Khaloom began to lose all patience, and swore by the pasha's head
that he would return to the tents if he was not immediately admitted.
He got, however, no satisfaction but a motion of the hand from one of
the chiefs, meaning ' wait patiently ;' and I whispered to him the ne-
cessity of obeying, as we were hemmed in on all sides, and to retire
without permission would have been as difficult as to advance. Barca

iff;'.} Ill

474 TRAVELS OP DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.

Gana now aupearea, and n.ul. u si.uM. that lioo-Khaloom should dis.
m^t wo IL about to follow his oxami-le, when an mtinmt.on hat
Boo KhaLotu was alone t<, bo adnutted agah. fixed us to our saddle .
ArothXfhour at leant passed without any news from the n.tenor of
ZhM^^r, when the gates oi^ened and the tour Enghshmen o,« y wero
euUed fo : Ld we advanced to the entrance. Here we were stopped
f:f un^Jrcnoniously by the black guards in wait n j andwen. a^ .we<^
one by one only, to ascend a staircase; at the top «f ™y^«™
" Vn> bnlht to a stand by crossed spoars, and the open flat hand of a
;^" 1 id tpon our breasts. Boo-Khaloon. came from the -"-cham-
ber and asked. ' If we were prepared to salute the shekh as we did the
,,a ha- Wo replied, ' Certahdy ;' which was merely an mchnation of
h iK-ad, and laying the right hand on the heart He advxsed our lay-
„.. our lands also on our heads, but we replied that the tlung wa. m.
po'slk-we had but one manner of salutation for any body, except our

""'VZi^'v^lej now took place, but in a mmute or two he rcturnocl
and we were u^ered into the presence of this Shekh of fepears. We
Jound him in a small dark room, sitting on a carpet, plainly dressed m a
blu robe of Soudan and a shawl turban. Two negroes were on each
side of him, armed with pistols, and on his carpet l»y ^ ^-- ^^ '^^^^^
uistruments. His personal appearance was prepossessmg, appaiently not
rorctlLty^ or fort^iix, with an expressive countenance and a
Eevolent snie. We delivered our letter from the pasha, ^^ after he
had read it he inquired, 'What was our object m commg? We
answered, ' To see the country merely, and to give ^"^r^""*;/^*;^
habitants, produce, and appearance, as our sultan was dcsirou of know-
in' every wt of he globe.' His reply was that we were welcome and
Whatever he could shL us would give him pleasure; that he had or-
dered huts to be buUt for us in the town, and that we might then go,
ac ompanied by one of his people, to see them, men we had recov-
ered from the fatigue of our long journey, he would be happy to see us
acain. With this we took our leave." , . , . ,, „♦

The huts were little rom.d mud buildings, h.closcd within a WfJl, not
far from the shekh's residence. Here the travelers, greatly fatigued with
their entree, retired; but the huts were immediately crowded with curi-
ous visitors and the' heat was insufferable. The -^-\%^\^'^ l^^,
received a summons to attend the shekh, and carried Avith them then
presents, consisting of a double-barreled gun, a pair of pistols, two
pieces of superfine broadcloth, red and blue, a set of china, and two bun-
dies of spices. The ceremonies of entering the presence were even more
ridiculous and annoying than on the preceding day. They passed be-
tween double lines of attendants, who caught them by the legs when
they advanced too rapidly, jerked off their slippers, and seated them on
a raised bench of earth. The shekh received the presents wi^i evident
satisfaction and again questioned them as to the object of their visit.

■ERTON.

haloom should dis-
1 an intimation that

U9 to our saddles,
from the interior of
iglishinen oi''y were
re we were stopped
f, and were allowed,
p of which we were
open flat hand of a
■oni the inner cham-

shekh as we did the
ely an inclination of

lie advised our lay-
at the thing was im-
iny body, except our

,0 or two he returned,
lekh of Si)ear8. We
t, plainly dressed in a
negroes were on each
t lay a brace of these
scssing, apparently not
ive countenance and a
the pasha, and after he
ct in coming?' We
re an account of its in-
was desirous of know-
we were welcome, and
isure ; that he had or-
,hat wo might then go.

When we had recov- 1
,uld be happy to see us

losed within a wall, not
■s, greatly fatigued with
tely crowded with curi-
■ next day at noon they
sarried -svith them their
a pair of pistols, two
t of china, and two bun-
resence were even more
; day. They passed be-
them by the legs wlicn
3r8, and seated them on
e presents with evident
le object of their visit.

VISIT TO TUB 8ULTAN OP BORNOU.

476

lie was very much pleased with the assurance that the King of England
had heard of liornou and of himself; and, immediately turning to his
cuuiisi'lor, said, "This is in consequence of our defeating the lleg-
harmis ;" upon which, the chief who had most distinguished himself in
tlie battles, Bagah Furby (the gatherer of horses), demandeil, " Did he
ever hear of me?" The immediate reply of "Certainly," did wonders
for the travelers : there was a general exclamation, and the cry of " Ah,
then, your king must bo a great man !" was repeated on every side.

After returning to their residence the travelers received presents of
bullocks, camel-loads of wheat and rice, leathern skins of butter, jars of
honey, bowls filled with a paste made of barley-flour, and great quanti-
ties of fresh fish. Tlierc was a market in front of one of the principal
gates of the town, wliitih was attended by upward of fifteen thousand
people. The principal live stock sold here was slaves, sheep, and bul-
locks : wheat, rice, and sugar-cane were abundant, together with tamar-
inds, ground nuts, onions, butter, sour milk, and honey. There was also
much leather, ocher, indigo, and the skins of serpents and crocodiles.
Among other articles offered to Denham was a young lion, who walked
about unconcernedly, confined only by a small rope around his neck.

On the 2d of March, lioo-Khaloom went to a town called Bimie, for
the purpose of paying his respects to the Sultan of Bomou, who resides
there, and the travelers decided to accompany him They passed
through Angornou, a town of about thirty thousand inhabitants, sixteen
miles from Kouka. Two miles beyond it was Bimie, a walled town,
containing about ten thousand inhabitants. Here they were met by the
sultan's chamberlain, who ordered a large tent to be pitched for them,
and informed theni that the sultan would receive them at sunrise the
next morning. In the evening, a most plentiful, if not delicate, repast
was brotight them, consisting of seventy dishes, each of which would
have dined half a dozen persons of moderate appetites. The sultan him-
self sent ten, his wives thirty, and his mother thirty ; the meat consisted
of mutton and poultry, and was baked, boiled, and stowed.

" Soon after daylight," says Major Denham, " we were summoned to
attend the Sultan of Bomou. He received us in an open space in front
of the royal residence ; wo were kept at a considerable distance, while
his people approached to within about one hundred yards, passing first
on horseback ; and after dismounting and prostrating themselves before
him, they took their places on the ground in front, but with their backs
to the royal person, which is the custom of the country. He was seated
in a sort of cage of cane or wood, near the door of his garden, on a seat
which at the distance appeared to be covered with silk or satin, and
through the railing looked upon the assembly before him, who formed a
sort of semicircle extending from his seat to nearly where we were wait-
ing. Nothuig could be more absurd and grotesque than the figures who
formed this court. Large bellies and large heads are indispensable for
those who serve the court of Bomou ; and those who unfortunately

476 TRAVKL8 OF DRNHAM AND CLAPPBRTON.

possess not tlio former by nature, or on whom lustiness will not bo forced
by eramniing, make up the deficiency of protuberance by a wadding,
which, as they sit on the horse, gives the belly the cunous appearance of
hanging over the pummel of the saddle. When the courtiers, to he
number of about three hundred, had taken their seats in front of the
sultan, wo were aUowed to approach to within pistol-shot of the spot
where he was sittuig, and desired to sit down ourselves, whca the ughest
black that can be imagined, his chief eunuch, the only person who ap-
proached the sultan's seat, asked for the presents. Boo-Khaloom's were
produced, inclosed in a largo shawl, and were earned unopened to the
presence. Our gUmpse was but a faint one of the sultan, through the
lattice-work of his paviUon, sufficient, however, to Bee that his turban
was larger than any of his subjects', and that his face, from the nose
downward, was completely covered. Immediately after the ceremony
we took our departure for Angemou." .„ m. * i -

On returning to Kouka, Dr. Oudney became very ill. The travelers
were greatly annoyed by the number of persons who crowded their huts
from mornbg tiU night. Every little thing, from the compass to the
pen and ink, from the watch to the tin drinking-cups, excited their
curiosity; and as they now became bolder, they seized liold of every
thing which they had formerly only eyed at a distance. It was not,
however, their curiosity alone which was cxcited-thc possession was
coveted, either for themselves or the shekh, of every article. A copy of
Captain Lyon's book, the fame of which had preceded the expedition, in
consequence of Dr. Oudney having shown it to some merchants at
Mourzuk, was demanded twenty times a day. It produced very differ-
ent eflfects, but in all astonishment and suspicion. The shekh sent one
of his slaves to borrow it, that he might sec it by stealth, not wishing
his people to know that he had made the request. He also asked that
some rockets might be sent up, in order to surprise and overawe some
of the Shouaas, his former enemies, who were then in Kouka. Ihe
signal was given by his chamberiain lighting a wisp of straw on the roof
of the palace The first rocket went up perpendicularly, with fine effect ;
the second, depressed a Uttlc, flew over the town at the height of a hun-
dred yards, and bursting in its course, occasioned a universal scream,
which lasted for some seconds. , i. j

On the 10th of March, Major Denham writes: "This day I had a
little respite, my visiting-list being much reduced in consequence of its
being maiket-day; there was, as usual, an abundance of all necessaries,
though but few luxuries; and, as the people got more accustomed to
my appearance, they became more femUiar. One young lady, whose
numerous bracelets of elephant's teeth, heavy silver rings on each side
of her face, coral in her nose, and amber necklace, proclaimed her a per-
son of wealth, nunbly jumped off her bullock and tore a comer from my
pocket-handkerchief, as she said, for a souvenir. I could do no less than
request her to accept the remainder of so useful an appendage, and 1

-t;*^i***f

PBRTON.

jHS will not bo forced
anco by a wadding,
urious appearance of
the courtiers, to the
leats in front of the
itol-shot of the spot
ve9,whc a the ugliest
only person who ap-
Boo-Khaloom'B were
ied unopened to the
I sultan, through the
Bce that his turban
s face, from the nose
' after the ceremony

jry ill. The travelort
(lo crowded their huts
1 tho compass to the
ig-cups, excited their
seized hold of every
listance. It was not,

\ the possession was

,ry article. A copy of j
>dcd the expedition, in j
,o some merchants at j
, produced very differ-
Tlie shekh sent one
jy stealth, not wishing
t. lie also asked that
iso and overawe some
then in Kouka. The
sp of straw on the roof
ularly, with fine eflTect ;
at the height of a hun-
ed a universal scream,

ss: "This day I had a
1 in consequence of its
ancc of all necessaries,
t more accustomed to
(ne young lady, whose
Iver rings on each side
^, procljumed her a per-
tore a comer from my
I could do no less than
il an appendage, and I

EXCURSION TO LAKK TOIIAD.

477

was happy lo sec that this piece of gall mil ry was not IohI, even upon
savages. Tliey all clapped their hands and cried, 'Marca! barcal'and
the lady herseilj whoso hands and face were really running down with
grease, so regardless was she of expense, generously poured into the
sleeve of my shirt nearly a quart of ground nuts."

The next day Major Denhani received a summons from tho shekh, to
whom a report had been made of a musical box, which played or stopped
merely by a motion of the finger. " The messenger dec^Iared he was
dying to see it, and I must make haste. The wild exclamations of won-
der and screams of pleasure which this piece of mechanism drew from
the generality of my visitors were curiously contrasted in the person of
the intelligent shekh ; he at first was greatly astonished, and asked sev-
eral questions, exclaiming, ' Wonderful I wonderful !' but the sweclnesa
of tho Swiss ra/iz des vachea which it i)layed at last overcame every
other feeling ; he covered his face with his hand, listened in silence, and
on one man near hhn breaking tho charm by a loud exclamation, ho
struck him a blow which made all his followers tremble. He instantly
asked if one twice as largo would not be better. I said : ' Yos, but it
would be twice as dear.' 'By Allah!' said he, * if one thousand dollars
would purchase it, it would be cheap.' Who will deny that nature has
given us all a tasto for luxuries ?"

The instrument was presented to the shekh, who was so delighted
that he gave Major Denham i^crmission to visit Lake Tchad, and sent
seven of his servants to attend him. After a ride of fifteen miles, they
reached tho shore - ihe lake, tho waters of which stretched away to
the horizon. In the grass marshes, thotisands of cattle belonging to tho
shekh were peacefully grazing. Tho traveler encamped near the water,
in spite of the remonstrances of his attendants, but was soon driven away
by the swarms of mosquitoes which assailed him. In the evening, he saw
a herd of forty wild elephants. Tho next day, while he was shooting
water-fowl, news of three very large elephants was brought to him, and
he immediately resolved to attack them. " One was an immense fellow,
I should suppose sixteen feet high ; the other two were females, and
moved away rather quickly, while the male kept in the rear, as if to
guard their retreat. We wheeled swiftly around him ; and Maraymy
casting a spear at him, which struck him just under the tail, and seemed
to give him about as much pain as when we prick our finger with a pin,
the huge beast threw up his proboscis in the air with a loud roar, and
from it cast such a volume of sand, that, unprepared as I was for such an
event, nearly blinded me. Tlio elephant rarely, if ever, attacks, and it
is only when irritated that he is dangerous ; but he will sometimes rush
upon a man and horse, after choking them with dust, and destroy them
in an instant."

After an absence of three days. Major Denham returned to Kouka,
where he received unwelcome news. " The horse which had carried me
from Tripoli to Mourzuk, and back again, and on which I had ridden the

478

TllAVELS OF DENHAM AND OLAPPERTON.

whch- joiinicy from Tripoli to Boniou, bml du^d, a very fow hours (xftor
my ilcpiirturf for tlio Iftite. There arc situations in a mim's hto m which
losses of this nature are felt most keenly ; aiul this was one of thorn. It
was not j,'rief, hut it was something very nearly approaehins to it ; and
thotiL'li I felt ashamed of the degree of derangement which I suffered
from it, yet it was several days before I could get over the loss. Let it
be however remembered, that the iwior animal had been my support and
coinfi.rt— may 1 not say companion ?— through inany a dreary day and
night ; ha.l endured both hunger and thirst in my service with the ut-
most patience ; was so docile, though an Arab, that ho would stand still
for hours in the desert, while 1 slept In'tween his legs, his body aflording
me the only shelter that could be obtained from the powerful influence
of a noonday sun ; ho was yet the aeetest of the fleet, and ever foremost
in the race."

DRNHAM'S MILITARY EXCURSION TO MANDARA.

The party had now been more than a month in Kouka, without hav-
ing made any apparent advance in the object of their mission. The de-
termination of the shekh seemed to be, not to permit them to go beyond
the borders of Bornou. They were not disheartened by the suspicion
and distrust with which they were met, but endeavored, by patience and
the utmost prudence in their conduct, to win by degrees the contidenco
of the shekh and people. Their situation at this time was rendered more
embarrassing by difficulties which had arisen between Boo-Khaloom and
the other Arab chieftains. The shekh was planning an expedition against
the Fellatas living beyond Mandara, a country to the south of Bornou,
for the purpose of capturing slaves, and promised to Send Boo-Khaloom
and his men, with Barca Gana, who was to command the party. Major
Denham determined to go likewise, as the country to be visited was
entirely unknown ; but the shekh, at first, seemed determined to thwart
his wishes. On the 8th of April, the expedition, under Barca Gana,
proceeded to Angomou, whence it was to move southward on the 14th.
Denham now lost no time in consulting one of the shekh's counselors,
who professed to bo his friend, promising to give him $50 if ho would
jjrocure a permit for him to go. He also had another interview with the
shekh, to whom he jestingly said that if he did not wish him to go, he
must imt him in irons. These promises and importunities were not with-
out effect ; the same night, Maraymy, one of the sultan's black slaves,
who had accompanied Major Denham to Lake Tchad, came to him after
midnight, and urged him to leave at once for Angomou. On the way
thither, Maraymy stated, confidentially, that the shekh had desired him
not to leave him, but that, if Denham persisted in joining the expedition,
he was to conduct him to the camp as quickly as possible, and give him
into the charge of Barca Gana.

'PKUTON.

very fi-w hours after
i\ iniUi'H li»o in which
was ono of thorn. It
|i|irottfhinR to it ; nnd
ni'iit which I Buffered
over thi' I08B. Li't it
bi'on my support ftnd
my ft dnciry day and
ly Hervice with tho ut-
it ho would stand still
|.gs, his body affording
lu) powerful influonco
eet, and ever foremost

TO MANDAUA.

n Koiika, without hav-
hoir mission. The de-
mit them to go beyond
rtened by the suspicion
avored, by patience and
degrees the contideiico
ime was rendered more
veen Boo-Khaloom and
g an expedition against
o the south of Bornou,
i to flend Boo-Khaloom
land the party. Major
mtry to be visited was
d determined to thwart
on, under Barca Gana,
southward on the 14th.
the shekh's counselors,

him 150 if he would
jther interview with the
not wish him to go, he
jrtunities were not with-
le sultan's black slaves,
'chad, came to him after
Vngomou. On the way
siiekh had desired him
n joining? the expedition,

possible, and give him

vf*A^'Mk%^

Sa2Ii£SBt^lll.

AFRICAN ORDKR OP MARCH.

479

This hint was (|uit«i sufficiont for Major Detdiam. Tlu-y roa<'hed An-
gomou before Hunrisc, nnd, finding that the cxpt'tlition had marrhcd on
to a town about thirty-five miles to the south, whore it would halt a day,
dotennined to resume their journey at onoo, and overtake it. On the
evening of the next day, the 17th, they reached a town called Mcrty,
near which they discovered the tents of the Uornouese camp. Miiraymy
at once conducted Major Denham to Barca Gana, who, lie says, " re-
ceived me with a great deal of civility in his tent, although ho kept nio
several minutes waiting outside, until he ha<l summoned h'm /ij/fii, or
charm-writer — an indispensable |)crson — and one or two of his chiefs, to
attend him. ♦ If it was the will of God,' lio said, ' I should come to no
harm, and lie would do all in his power for my convenience.' A spot
w.-is api)ointed for my tent near his own ; and I took my leave in order
to visit the Arabs. The cheers they all gave me, and the hearty shako
of the hand of Boo-Khaloom, made mo regret that I was not to bo
among them, in spite of all their bad qualities Boo-Khaloom repeat-
edly exclaimed : ' I knew you would come ; I said you would by some
means or other join us.' "

Tlie next morning tho tents were struck before sunrise, .ind M.ijor
Denham rode off by the side of Barca Gano, in full march for Mandara.
They advanced thirty-four miles that day, and reached a walled town
called Deegoa, with a population of thirty thousand. The following is
the description of tho order of march : " Chiefs in this part of Africa are
accompanied by as many personal followers as they think proper to
maintain, both as horse and footmen : some of them form the band, if I
may so call it. Barca Gona had five mounted, who kept close behind
him, three of whom carried a sort of drum, which hangs around their
necks, and beat time while they sang extempore songs; one carried a
small pipe made of a reed, and the other blew, ou a buffalo's horn, loud
and deep-toned blasts, as wo moved through the wood ; but by far the
most entertaining and useful were the running footmen, who preceded
the kashella, and acted as pioneers ; they were twelve in number, and
carried long forked poles, with which they, with great dexterity, kept
back the branches as they moved on at a quick paoe, constantly keeping
open a path, which without them would really have been scarcely pass-
able. Besides, they were constantly crying out something about the
road, or the expedition, as they went on. For example : ' Take care of
the holes ! — Avoid the branches ! — ^Here is the road ! — ^Take care of tho
tulloh ; its leaves are like spears — ^worse than spears !' ' Keep off the
branches I' 'For whom?' 'Barca Gana!' — 'Who in battle is like
roUing of thunder?' 'Barca Gana!' — 'Now for Mandara!— now for
the Kerdies! — now for the battle of spears! Who is our leader?'
' Barca Gana !' — ' Here is the wady, but no water ! God be praised ! —
In battle, who spreads terror around him like a buffalo in his rage ?'
' Barca Gana !' "

After several days of severe travel, the heat being sometimes 113°

480

TRAVELS OF DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.

in the sliade, tlic army approached tlic capital of the country of Man-
dara, and received a message from the sultan, who stated that he would
meet it next day on his way to Mora, his residence. The first town of
Mandara was Delow, a place of ten thousand inhabitants. " About a
mile from his to^vn," says Major Denham, " we saw before us the Sultan
of Mandara, sarrounded by about five hundred horsemen, posted on a
rising ground ready to receive us, when Barca Gana instantly com-
manded a halt. The sultan's guard was composed of thirty of his sons,
all mounted on very superior horses, clothed in striped silk tobes, and
the skins of the tiger-cat and leopard forming their shabracks, which
liung fully over tlieir horses' haunches. After these had returned to
their station in front of the sultan, we approached at full speed in our
turn, halting with the guard between us and the royal presence. The
parley then commenced, and the object of Boo-Khaloom's visit having
been explained, we retired again to the place we had left ; while the sul-
tan returned to the town, preceded by several men blowing long pipes
not imlike clarionets, ornamented with shells, and two iimnense trum-
pets from twelve to fourteen feet long."

ARRIVAL AT MORA, IN MANDARA.

" Toward evening," Denham continues, " Barca Gana sent to desire l
; me to mount, for the purpose of visiting the sultan. We entered the
. town, Boo-Khaloom and myself riding on Iiis right and left. At the |

EBTON.

'i country of Man-
.tcd that lie would
The first town of
itants. "About a
;foro us the Sultan
icracn, posted on a
ana instantly com-
' thirty of his sons,
)ed silk tobes, and
ir shabracks, which
30 had returned to
at full speed in our
»yal presence. The
aloom's visit having
1 left ; while the sul-
blowing long pipes
two iiouxcnse trum-

ca Gana sent to desire
itan. We entered the
ght and left. At the

THE SULTAN OP MANDARA.

481

further end of a largo square was the sultan's palace. Aa is usual on
approaching or visiting a great man, we galloped up at full speed, almost
entering the gates. This is a perilous sort of salutation, but nothing
must stop you : and it is seldom made, except at the expf^nsc of one or
more lives. On this occasion, a man and horse which stood in our way,
were ridden over in an instant, the horse's leg broken, and the man
killed on the spot. Tho trumpets soimded as we dismounted at the
palace gate ; our papouches,or outward slippers, were quickly pulled off;
and wo proceeded through a wide entrance, into a large court, where,
under a dark blue tent of Soudan, sat the sultan, on a mud bench, cov-
ered, however, with a handsome carpet and silk pillows. He was sur-
rounded by about two hundred peraons, all handsomely dressed in tobes
of silk and colored cotton, with his five eunuchs, the principal men of
the country sitting in front, but all with their backs turned toward him.
The manner of saluting is curious. Barca Gana, as the shekh's repre-
sentative, approached to a space in front of the eunuchs, his eyes fixed
on the ground : he then sat down, his eyes still fixed on the earth, with
his back to the sultan, and, clapping his hands together, exclaimed :
*Migouborou dagah!'' (May you live forever!) ^ Allah kiaro I'' (God
send you a happy old ago !) 'Xa, lai f barca ! barca /♦ (How is it with
you ? blessing ! blessing !) These words were repeated nearly by the
sultan, and then sung out by all tho court.

" The sultan, whose name Avas Mohammed Bukr, was an intelligent
little man of about fifty, -with a beard dyed of a most beautiful sky-blue.
He had been eyeing me for some time, as I sat between Boo-Khaloom
and Barca Gana, and first asking Boo-Khaloom his name, inquired who
I was ? Tlie answer that I was a native of a very distant and powerful
nation, friends of the pasha of Tripoli and the shekh, who came to see
the country, did not appear much to surprise him ; and he looked graci-
ous as he said : ' But what does he want to see ?' A fatal question fol-
lowed, however, and the answer appeared to petrify the whole assembly.
— ' Are they Moslem ?' '^La! la!'* (No ! no !) Every eye, which had
before been turned toward me, was now hastily withdrawn, and, looking
round, I really felt myself m a critical situation. ' Has the great pasha
infidel friends?' asked the sultan. The explanation which followed was
of little use : they knew no distinctions : Chriutians they had merely
heard of as the worst people in the world, and probably, imtil they saw
me, scarcely believed them to be human. We shortly after returned to
our camp, and I never afterward was invited to enter the Sultan of Man-
dara's presence."

It had been Boo-Khaloom's expectation that he would besentagjunst
some of the Kerdies, or tribes of negroes who inhabit the mountains, in
order to capture slaves : but he soon discovered that the intention of the
Shekh of Bomou, aided by the Sultan of Mandara, was to send him
against the warlike Felatahs, and give his Arabs a taste of their arrows
and spears. The people of a country called Musgow, lying to the south-

482 TRAVELS OF DKNl.AM ASD CLAPPEBTON.

::iti!:;:x -«-x- - -^!- r^r.^ lxs

thoy throw themselves «"f « gJ^'T^^ ^^ir heads, vhich were covered

assured were the teeth of the ™"f ^^ , ,1^^^^^ j^eks of their

and pieces of bone were f « P;";^;;";,^^,!^^^^^^ n^arked in

hair, nnd, with '^ l^lClZflh^^^^^^ -ore stained), they

diflerent places (which color also inui u ^^at very

„»„y haa a -' -^^^^^ ^ U tat^S^S -^^n ^hr^ng. who we/e
mucli mcrcased «"« ■"«"°»' J ° I ta po.Wv» a8«ertion of Boo-Khaloom
the moat savage of their race, »a«t no po. beginng permission

that they were Christians! S«"^»f «h«".J»"»'^'.""S8 /jf^ i„^„
to regal? .hen,«>lvo, on the -"-»»/ "Jn^'^^terllo argnmcnl
t.e night in oarcampgajem^,^^^^^^^^ f°'««' f' *'"

against lum. I can ^^^'^'^^'y.' 7;\ ^ ' • nothing: I certainly never
concerted I felt when ho replied : Tl»atJ "o^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^, ,^^^

licard of Christians eating dead horse-flosh, but 1 know tnai; y
flesh of swine, and God knows J^f /^^^^^^^ ^ ^.,,,,„, i,„,Heane

monntainj ««eh, '»' f '"^ "C W Se I tL ^L of Ho,^

Sred ho,^, with severa. -ar^ ^^ ™* "^f^C ,wf a'5
his six favorite eunuchs, and thirty ot his sons, au uiicijr
blunted on really superb horses. Barca Gana's P-P^;^- Vad a
red scarfs, or bomouses, over the r «t««\J'^'=^P\«' ^?l,*f T.^^ ^%^^
vorv fine effect I took my position at his right hand, and at a spoL
cZd DuS- we entered a very thick wood, in two eolmnas, at the

JRTON.

;e(l against them,
\o hundred slaves,
: " I saw them on
on their entrance,
)n their heads, and
rhich were covered
Ate over theii eyes,
fox-like pnimal, and
ngs of what I was
tin in battle : teeth
,tted lucks of their
;i('S were marked in
were stained), they
trance. What very
■se beings, who were
tion of Boo-Khaloom
, begging permission
iiich had died during
answerable argument
ment forget how dis-
ig: I certainly never
now that they eat the

ch a violent hurricane
rocks from the mount-
he order was given to
,rca Gana nnd the Sul-
airey, in the Mandara
surrounded by rugged
rht be compared to the
red the pass of Horza,
e overhimg on either
five hundred feet high.

10 for an attack on the
cs distant. The chiefs
d the hammers of the

11 night.

eon the morning of the

itself. The Sultan of
a very beautiful cream-
it him, and followed by
), all finely dressed and
8 people all wore their
ts, and the whole had a
rht hand, and at a spot
'in two columns, at the

BATTLE WITH THE FELATAHS.

483

end of which it was said wo were to find the enemy. * * ♦ On
emerging from the Avood, tlie large Felatah town of DirkuUa was per-
ceivable, and the Arabs were formed in front, headed by Boo-Khaloom ;
they were flanked on cacli side by a large body of cavalry, and as tliey
moved on, sliouting the Arab war-cry, which is very inspiring, I thought
I could perceive a smile pass between Barca Gana and his chiefs, at Boo-
Khaloom's expense. Dirkulla was quickly burned, and another smaller
town near it ; and the few inhabitants wlio were found in them, who
were chiefly infants and aged persons unable to escape, were put to
death without mercy, or thrown into the flames."

They now came to a third town, called Musfeia, built in a very strong
position between two low hills, with a swamp in front, beyond which
were several deep ravines, impassable for more than two or three horse-
men at a time. Tlie town Avas also surrounded with a strong fence of
pointed palissades, fastened together with thongs of raw hide. The
Arabs, unsupported by either the Bomou or Mandara troops, moved on
gallantly, and, in spite of showers of poisoned arrows, drove away the
Felatahs, who retreated up the hills, where they rolled down huge
masses of rock on their pursuers. Barca Gana, with about one hundred
spearmen, now moved up to the assistance of Boo-Khaloom ; but the
Sultan of Mandara, and the remainder of the army, kept out of the
reach of the arrows, on the other side of the ravines. "The Felatahs,
finally, seeing their backwardness, now made an attack in turn ; the
arrows fell so thick that there was no standing against them, and tlie
Arabs gave way. The Felatah horse now came on, and had not the
little band around Barca Gana and Boo-Khaloom, with a few of his
mounted Anabs, given them a very spirited check, not one of us wotild,
probably, have lived to see the following day. As it was, Barca Gana
had three horses hit under him, two of which died almost immediately,
the arrows being poisoned ; and poor Boo-Khaloom's horse and himself
received their death-wounds. My horse was badly wounded in the
neck, just above the shoulder, and in the near hind leg : an arrow had
struck me in the face as it passed, merely drawing the blood, and I had
two sticking in my bomous. No sooner did the Mandara and Bomou
troops sec the defeat of the Ar,ibs, than they, one and all, took to flight,
in the most dastardly manner, without having been once exposed to
the arrows of the enemv, and in the utmost confusion. The Sultan of
Mandara led the way.

" I now, for the first time, as I saw Barca Gana on a fresh horse, la-
mented my own folly in so exposing myself, badly prepared as I was for
accidents. If either of ray horse's wounds were from poisoned arrows,
I felt that nothing could save me ; however, there was not much time
for reflection. We instantly became a flying mass, and plunged, in the
greatest disorder, into that wood we had but a few hours before moved
through with order, and very different feelings. I had got a little to
the westward of Barca Gana, in the confusion which took place ou our

TRAVELS OP DENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.

passing the ravine, where upward of one huntlred of the Bomouese wore
speared by the Felatahs, and waa following at a round gallop the steps
of one of the Mundara eunuchs, who, I observed, kept a good look-out,
his head being constantly turned over his left shoulder, with a face ex-
pre»sivc of the greatest dismay, when the cries behind, of the Felatah
horse pursuing, made us both quicken our paces. The spur, iiowever,
had the effect of incapacitating my beast altogether, as the arrow, I
found afterward, had reached the shoulder-bone, and in passing over
sonic rough ground ho stumbled and fell. Almost before I was upon my
legs, the Felatahs were upon me. 1 had, however, kept hold of the
bridle, and seizing a pistol from the holsters, I presented it at two of
tliose ferocious savages, who were pressing me with their spears. Tliey
instantly went off"; but another, who came on mo more boldly, just as
I was endeavoring to mount, received the contents somewhere in his left
shoulder, and again I was enabled to place my foot in the stirrup.
Remounted, I again pushed my retreat. I had not, however, proceeded
many hundred yards, when my horse again came down with such vio-
lence us to throw me against a tree at a considerable distance, and,
alarmed at the horses behind him, he quickly got up and escaped, leav-
ing me on foot and unarmed.

" The eunuch and his four followers were hero butchered, after a very
slight resistance, and stripped within a few yards of me. Their cries
were dreadful ; and even now the feelings of that moment are fresh in
my memory — my hopes of life were too fwnt to deserve the name. I was
almost instantly surrounded, and, incapable of making the least resistance
as I was unarmed, was as speedily stripped, and while attempting, first
to save my shirt and then my trowsers, I was thrown on the ground.
My pursuers made several thrusts at me with their spears, which badly
wounded my hands in two places, and slightly my body, just under the
ribs, on the right side ; indeed, I saw nothing before me but the same
cruel death I had seen unmercifully inflicted on the few who had fallen
into the power of those who now had possession of me ; and they were
alone prevented from murdering me, in the first instance, I am per-
suaded, by the fear of injuring the value of my clothes, which appeared
to them a rich booty — ^but it was otherwise ordained.

" My shirt was now absolutely torn off my back, and I waa left per-
fectly naked. Wlien my plunderers began to quarrel for the spoil, the
idea of escape came like lightnhig across my mind, and without a
moments hesitation or reflection I crept under the belly of the horse
nearest me, and started as &st as my legs could carry me for the thickest
part of the wood ; two of the Felatahs followed, and I ran on to the
eastward, knowing that our stragglers would be in that direction, but
still ahnost as much afraid of friends as foes. My pursuers gained on
me, for the prickly underwood not only obstructed my passage, but tore
my flesh miserably ; and the delight with which I saw a mountain-stream
gliding along at the bottom of a deep ravine can not be imagined. My

PPERTON.

)f the BomoucBe -wore
ound gaUop tho steps
lept a good look-out,
mlder, with a feoe ex-
ehind, of tho Fclatah
The spur, ivowever,
ether, as the arrow, I
, and in passing over
t before I was upon my
iver, kept bold of tlic
iresentcd it at two of
itb their spears. Tliey
;0 more boldly, just as
;9 Bomewhero in his left
ay foot in tho stirrup,
lot, however, proceeded

le down with such vio-
laiderablo distance, and,
.t up and escaped, loav-

butchered, after a very
rds of me. Their ones
lat moment are fresh m
ieserve the name. I was
alung the least resistance
d while attempting, first
thrown on the ground.
,heir spears, which badly
my body, just under tho
before me but the same

1 the few who had 6Uen
n of me; and they were

6rst instance, I am per-
Y clothes, which appeared
•dained.

• back, and I was loft per-
j quarrel for tho spoil, the
tny mind, and without a
er the belly of the horse
d carry me for the thickest

>wed, and I ran on to ttie
I be in that direction, but
9, My pursuers gained on
Hcted my passage, but tore
■h I saw a mountain-stream
can not bo imagined. My

NARROW ESCAPE FROM DEATH,

485

Strength had almost left mo, and I seized the young branches issuing
from tho stump of a large tree which overhung the ravine, for tho pur-
pose of Ictthig myself down into the water, as tho sides were {jrecipit-
ous, when, under my hand, as the branches yielded to the weight of ray
body, a large Hjfa — tho worst kind of serpent this country produces —
rose from its coil, as if in the very act of striking. I was horror-struck,
and deprived for a moment of all recollection — the branch slipped from
my hand, and I tumbled headlong into the water beneath. This shock,
however, revived me, and with three strokes of my arms I reached the
opposite bank, which, with tlifficulty, I crawled up ; and then, for the
first time, felt myself safe from ray pursuers.

" I now saw horsemen through the trees, still further to the east, and
determined on reaching them, if possible, whether friends or enemies ;
and the feelings of gratitude and joy with which I recognized Barca
Gana and Boo-Khaloom, Avith about six Arabs, although they also were
closely pressed by a party of the Felatahs, was beyond description.
The guns and pistols of tho Arab shckhs kept the Felatahs in chock,
and assisted in some measure the retreat of the footmen. I hailed them
with all my might ; but the noise and confusion which prevailed, from
the cries of those who were falling under the Felatah spears, the cheers
of the Arabs rallying, and their enemies pursuing, would have drowned
all attempts to make myself hoard, had not Maraymy, the shokh's
negro, seen and known me at a distance. To this man I was indebted
for my second escape : riding up to nie, he assisted mo to mount bo-
hind him, while tho arrows whistled over our heads, and we then gal-
loped off to the rear as fast as his wounded horse could carry us. After
we had gone a mile or two, and the ])ursuit had somewhat cooled, in
oonsoquenco of all the baggage having been abandoned to the enemy,
Boo-Khaloom rode up to mo, and desired one of the Arabs to cover me
with a boumous. This was a most welcome relief, for the burning sun
had already begun to blister my neck and back, and gave me the great-
eat pain. Shortly after, the effect of the poisoned wound in his foot
caused our excellent friend to breathe his last : Maraymy exclaimed,
' Look ! look ! Boo-Khaloom is dead !' T turned my head, almost as
great an exertion as I was capable of, and saw him drop from tho horse
into thp arms of his favorite Arab — ^he never spoke after. They said ho
had only swooned ; there was no Avater, however, to revive him, and
about an hour after, when we came to Makkeray, he was past the reach
of restoratives.

" On coming to tho stream, tho horses, with blood gushing from
their nostrils, rushed into the shallow water, and, letting myself down
fi"om behind Maraymy, I knelt down among them, and seemed to im-
bibe new life by the copious draughts of the muddy beverage which
I swallowed. Of what followed I have no recollection ; Maraymy told
me afterward that I staggered across tho stream, which was not above
my hips, and fell down at the foot of a tree on the other side. About

486 TRAVELS OF UENHAM AND CLAPPERTON.

a owirtrr of an l.our's l.ult took place here for the benefit of Htragglcrs,
am to te poor Boo-Khalooni's body on a horse's back, at the end o
itr^taVny awoke ,ne from my deep sleep, and I found ^y^^U^
wonderfully «.ereased ; not so, however, our horse, for ho had beco .
tiff and eould scarcely move. As I learned afterward, a conversaUm
had taken place about mo while I slept, which rendered my obhga,t ous
to Maraymy still greater; he had reported to Barca «-* *^" «^f .^J
his horse, and the hnpossibUity of carrymg me on, when the chief, i ri-
tatcd by his losses and defeat, replied : 'Then leave huu behmd. By
the head of the prophet ! believers enough have breathed their last to-
day AVhat is there extraordinary in a Christian's death ?' My old an-
tagonist, Malem Chadilly, replied : ' No, God has P'-^^^^f '^'J ; ^f'Z^
not forsake him.' Maraymy returned to the tree, and said hn heart
told him what to do.' He awoke me, assisted me to "^'^t, and we
moved on as before, but with tottering steps and less speed. The cttcct
produced on the horses that were wounded by poisoned arrows was ex-
traordinary ; immediately after drinking they dropped and mstantly
died, the blood gushing from their noses, mouths, and cars

"In this way we conthiued our retreat, and it was after midnight
when wc halted in the sultan of Mandara's territory. Uidmg more than
forty-five miles, in such an unprovided state, on the bare back ot a lean
horse, the powerful consequences may be imaginea I was "^^ deplora-
ble state the whole night ; and notwithstanding the -ntation ot the flesh-
wounds was augmented by the woollen covering the Arab had thrown
TeTme, it waT evening tho next day before I could get a shut when
one man who had two, both of which he had worn eight or ten days at
least, gave me one, on a promise of gettmg a new one at Kouka. 1
slpt under a tree nearly the whole night and day, except at mtervals
when my friend Maraymy supplied me with a drink made from parched
corn, bruis'jd, r^nd steeped in water.

"Mai Meegamy, the dethroned sultan of a country to the south-west
of Angornou, and now subject to the shekh, took me by the hand as I
crawled out of my nest for a few minutes, and with many exc amations
of J^rrow,and a comtenance fuU of commiseration, led me to his leather
tent! and sitting down quickly, disrobed hunself of his trowsers insis mg
I luld put them on. ReaUy, no act of charity could exceed tlus ! I
was exce^edingly affected at so unexpected a friend, for I had scare ly
seen, or spoken three words to him ; but not so much so a^ himself when
1 refused to accept of them. He slied tears in abundance ; and thmKiug,
which was the fact, that I conceived he had offered the only ones he had,
immediately caUed a slave, whom he stripped of those necessary appen-
dages to a man's dress, according to our ideas and pi.tting them cHi
himself, insisted again on my taking those he had first offered me. I ac
cepted this offer, and thanked him with a full heart ; and Meegamy was
S great fdend from that moment mitil I quitted the ^^^^^-^-^^2
" We returned with great expedition, considenug the wretched state

PERTON.

)L"iK'at of stiagglcrsj
b:ick, at the eud of
I found my stiengtli
for ho hud bocoiuo
ward, a convorsatiou
Icred my obligatioua
;a Gana tho Htato of
when tho chief, iiri-
ive liiiu behmd. By
rcathcd their last to-
death?' Myoldan-
)reserved him ; let us
2, and said'hia heart
lie to mount, and wo
esa speed. The effect
isoned arrows was ex-
iropped and instantly
and ears,

it was after nudnight
ry. Hiding more than
,he bare back of a lean
a. I was in a deplora-
,e irritation of the flesh-
the Arab had thrown
iould get a shirt, when
•n eight or ten days at
new one at Kouka. I
ay, except at intervals
ink made from parched

Duntry to the south-west
ok me by the hand as I
vith many exclamations
m, led me to his leather
of his trowsers, insistuig
r could exceed tliis '. I
•lend, for I had scarcely
luch so as hunself; when
,uudancc ; and thinking,
ed the only ones he had,
• those necessary appen-
9, and putting them on
d first offered me. I ac-
eart; and Mcegamy was
a the shekh's dominions,
ering the wretched state

THE IIUINS OF OLD BIRNIK.

487

wp wcro ill. On the sixtli day after our dt'i)arturt' from Mora, wc arrived
in Kouka, a distance of one hundred and eiglity miles ; the wounded
Arabs remained behind, being unable to keep up with the oliief, and did
not arrive until four days after us. I suffered mucli, botli iu mind and
body, l)>it complained not ; indeed all complaint would have been ill-
timed, where few were enduring less than myself. My black servant
liad lost mule, canteens, and every thing, principally from keeping too
near me in the action ; and, by his obeying implicitly tho strict orders I
lia<l given him not to fire on the Felatahs, he had narrowly escape<l with
his life. Bruised and lame, he could render me no assistance, and usually
came in some hours after we had halted." On reaching Angornou, the
shekh sent Major Dcnham some linen and a dress of the coruitry, uj
which he made his entry into Kouka.

THE RAIUY SEASON IN BORNOU.

Soon after the return of tho unfortunate exjiedition to Mandara, the
shekh of Bornou determined to send a force to subdue the i)eople of
Munga, a country lying to the westward. For this purpose, he assem-
bled eight or nine thousand spearmen, and five thousand Shouaas, and
set out on the 18th of May. Major Denham and Dr. Oiidney obtained
permission to accompany him, for the purpose of visiting the ruins of tho
towns of Gambarou and Old Birnie ; Capt.ain Clapperton remained at
Kouka. The travelers accompanied the shekh the first day, and then,
leaving tho army, took a course more to tho northward, to the river
Ycou, or Gambarou, near which are the ruins of Old Birnie. On the
2Cth of May, they passed a lako three miles long, called Muggaby, or
the lake of the Sultan of Bornou. " We proceeded by the high road to
Soudan," says Major Dcnham, " and after about two miles came to the
spot on which once stood the capital of Bornou ; the ruins of the city
ccrtauily tended to convince us moi'e strongly of the power of its former
sultans, than any of the tales avc had heard of their magnificence.
We had seen upward of thirty lai-ge towns which the Felatahs had com-
pletely razed to tho ground at the time they destroyed the capital, and wc
were now arrived at the ruins of the capital itself Old Birnie covered a
space of five or six square miles, and is said to have had a population of
tM-o hundred thousand souls. The remains of the walls were in many-
places still standing, in large masses of hard red brick-work, and were
from three to four feet in thickness, and sixteen to eighteen feet in
height. From the top of one of these we obtained a sight of the river
Gambarou, nmning nearly east, notwithstanding its windings, and only
a few miles distant.

" Close to the bank, and just at the hollow of a slight curve in tho
river's course, fourteen years ago stood the town of Gambarou, the chosen
place of residence of the late and former Sultans of Bornou ; and tho

488

TRAVELS OF DBNHAM AND OLAPPBRTON.

ruins now standing give a proof of the buildings liaving been, for this
country, of a princely kind ; the walls of a mosque, Avhich were moro
than twenty yards square, are still visible, and those of the sultan's house,
with gates opening to the river, still remam ; a private mosque appears
also to have been attached to the sultan's residence. The buildings were
all of brick, and must have had a superior appearance to any town wo
had seen in Africa. The situation was beautiful, and although labyrinths
of thickets and brambles now overspread the banks of the river, while
wild plants and useless grass were in the meadows, yet I was assured
that the whole neighborhood of Gambarou was once in a superior state
of cultivation, and that, in the old sultan's time, boats were constantly
moving to and from Kabshary, and other towns to the west. Kouka
was at that time not in being, and Angornou but a small parcel of huts."
The travelers were here alarmed by reports that the people of Munga
were in the neighborhood, and hastened to rejoin the shekh's army. On
their way they came upon a herd of fourteen wild elephants, which the
negroes made to dance and frisk like so many goats, by beating a brass
basin violently with a stick. They were two days in reaching the Bor-
nou cam]), and on the Avay both Dr. Oudney and the servant Columbus
came near losing their lives by falling into pits set for wild beasts, with
sharj) stakes at the bottom. On rejoining the sultan, they found him
within the territory of Munga, having already gained several advantages
over his enemies. On the 5th of June, many hundreds of the Munga
people came to the camp, bowing to the ground, and throwing sand upon
their heads, in token ot submission. At night, preparations were made
for marching upon the capital, but the people sent word that if the shekh
remained where ho was, they would come to him and surrender them-
selves.

On the following day, several towns sent their chiefs, but Malam Fa-
naamy, the chief of the rebels, refused to come, because he feared to lose
his head, offering at the same tune two thousand slaves, one thousand
bullocks, and three hundred horses, for the shekh, as the price of peace.
The same evening, the shekh requested Major Denham to send up some
rockets, which was successfully done. The night was very dark, and the
appearance of the rockets created great wonder and consternation.
Some of the Munga messengers fell on their feces and began to pray most
fearfully, when the rockets burst in their descent. Next morning, Ma-
lem Fanaamy came, mounted on a white horse, at the head of a thousand
followers, to make his submission. The shekh received his humble ac-
knowledgments of subjection, and when the rebel expected to hear the
order for his throat to be cut, he was clothed with eight handsome tobes,
and his head made as big as six with turbans from Egypt.

A circumstance occurred during this expedition which created a
great sensation among the chiefs, and which offered a striking illustra-
tion of the absolute authority of the Shekh of Bornou. Says Major
Denham : " Barca Gana, the shekh's general and his favorite, a governor

PPERTON.

having been, for this
xc, which wore more
5 of the sultan's house,
ivate mosque appears
. The buildings were
ranee to any town wo
d although labyrinths
ks of the river, while
iws, yet I was assured
ice in a superior state
3oat8 were constantly
I to the west. Kouka
I small parcel of huts."
t the people of Munga
the shckh's army. On
I elephants, which the
[Its, by beating a brass
} in reaching the Bor-
the servant Colimibus
t for wild beasts, with
ultan, they found him
lied several advantages
indreds of the Munga
nd throwing sand upon
reparations were made
, word that if the shekh
and surrender them-

chiefs, but Malam Fa-
icauBO ho feared to lose
i slaves, one thousand
I, as the price of peace,
inham to send up some
was very dark, and the
er and consternation,
and began to pray most
,. Next morning, Ma-
the head of a thousand
•eccived his humble ac-
1 expected to hear the
I eight handsome tobes,
a Egypt.

ition which created a
cred a striking illustra-
Bornou. Says Major
his favorite, a governor

BARCA OANA'S HUMILIATION.

489

' of six large districts, the man whom ho deliglited to honor, who had
more than fitly female and a hundred male siavort, was tauglit a lesson
of humility that made me feel for him. In giving presents to the chiefk,
the shekh had inadvertently sent him a horse which he had previously
promised to some one else, and on Barca Gana being requested to givo
it up, he took such great offense that he sent back all the horses which
the shekh had itroviously given him, saying that ho would in future walk
or ride his own. On this the shekh immediately sent for him, had him
stripped in his presence, and the leather girdle put round his loins ; and,
after reproaching him with his ingratitude, ordered that ho should be
forthwith sold to the Tibboo merchants, for ho was still a slave. The
favorite thus humbled and disgraced, fell on his knees and acknowledged
the justness of his punishment. He begged for no forgiveness for him-
self, but intreatcd that liis wives and children might bo provided for, out
of the riches of his master's bounty. But on the following day, when
preparations were made for carrying this sentence into eft'ect, the black
Mamelukes and Shouaa chiefs about tho shckh's person fell at his feet,
and, notwithstanding the haugtiness of Barca Gana's carriage to them
since his advancement, to a man intreated pardon for his offenses. Tlio
culprit appearing at this moment, to take leave, the shekh threw him-
self back on his cushion, wept like a child, and suffered Barca Gan:i, who
had crept close to him, to embrace his kncos, and calling them all his
sons, pardoned his repentant slave. In tho evening, there was great
and general rejoicing. The timbrels beat : the Kanemboos yelled and
struck their shields ; every thing bespoke joy, and Barca Gana, in new
tobes and a rich bornous, rode around the camp, followed by all tho
chiefs of the array."

After an absence of a month, the shekh returned to Konka, and the
troops were disbanded. The travelers established themselves in the
house which had been appropriated to them, to pass the rainy season,
which had commenced. Major Denham commenced the study of the
Arabic and Bomon languages. Dr. Oudney and I^Iillman were both ill
with the fever, and the whole party was affected by the heat of the days
and the dampness of the evenings. Major Denham gives the following
description of tho rainy season : "We had frequent and violent showers
of rain, with thunder and most vivid lightning : the waters covered the
face of the country in extensive lakes, and our excursions in search of
game were now confined to the immediate neighborhood of our resi-
dence. The sugar-cane had increased in height greatly; and at this
season of the year there are other reasons beside tho fall of rain which
induce people to remain in their habitations — when the great lake over-
flows the immense district which, in tho dry season, affords cover and
food to the numerous animals with which Bornou abounds, they are
driven from the wilds, and take reflige in the standing corn, and some-
times in the immediate neighborhood of the towns. Elephants had al-
ready been seen at Dowergoo, scarcely six miles from Kouka ; and a

490

TRAVELS OF DENHAM AND CLAPPKUTON.

fcinalo >iliivo, whilo slif WJia returning homo iVoni wci'diiij,' tlio corn to
Kowii, uoi niore than ten miloH distant, had been HiizeJ and cariii'd oft'
by a lioness."

Tlie party now began to bo embarrassed for want of funds. A mer-
chant of Mourzuk, named Iladji Ali, to whose brother they hr.d intrust-
ed some money, declined to pay it, and they woro almost destitute.
This eircuuistanco oamo to the ears of the shekh and of some relatives
of Iladji Ali, who at last came to Major Denham, stating that he would
lot theui have as much as they wanted, in pieces of cotton cloth, for
which he nmst first send to Mourzuk ; but he had no money. This was
very imsatisfactory, but they tliought it best to make no objection.
Captain Clapperton was now seized with fever and delirium : Ilillman,
though he still had occasional attacks of delirium, recruited a little, but
Dr. Oudney grew visibly weaker every day. Tho season appeared to
be an unhealthy one for the natives also, and a great number of them

died.

Toward the end of September, Clapperton, whoso life had boon de-
spaired of, began slowly to recover. The carpenter, Hillman, employed
himself in making a gun-carriage for a four-pounder, which the Sultan
of Fezzan had presented to tho shekh, and, notwithstanding the diffi-
culties he had to encounter, in tho scarcity of iron, and tho clumsiness
of the negro blacksmith, he succeeded very well. The providing of balls
was a great difficulty ; but after trying a number of musket-bafis m a
small Imen rag, which would not answer, Major Denham succeeded in
getting from the negro blacksmith, by means of a paper model, a small
tin canister, the size of tho bore of the piece, and holding sixteen mus-
ket-balls. The shekh's delight at this acquisition to his implements of
war was extreme, and he became impatient to sec tho guns exercised.
The distance to which they threw tho balls, and the loudness of the re-
port, created the greatest astonishment, but the shekh would not suffer
a second canister to be shot. " No, no I" said he, " they are too valua-
ble ; they must not bo thrown away. Curses on their race, how these
will make the Begharmis jump!" Major Denham had cut out a harness
hi paper as a pattern, which had been tolerably imitated in leather : this
was attached to each gun, with a man mounted on the mule that drew
it, and altogether the guns had a far better appearance and effect than
was anticipated.

About the middle of October cool winds began to blow, which in the
course of two or three weeks produced a great change in the climate.
The sick became cheered and invigorated, and tho travelers now began
to plan new journeys to tho eastward and westward of Bornou. The
shekh intended to send off" two expeditions, one to Begharmi, a country
lying south-east of Lake Tchad, and the other to Kancin, lying to tho
north-east, on the borders of the desert. Major Denham determined to
accompany the former. Captain Clapperton and Dr. Oudney succeeded
in obtaining the permission of the shekh to accompany a caravan which

APPKUTON.

Ill wcetliiij; tlio corn to
J seized luid carrii'd oft'

wnnt of funds. A riier-
iDtlior tliey lir.d iiitrust-

woro almost destitute.
1 and of some relatives
11, stating that he would
cos of cotton cloth, for
id no money. This was

to make no objection,
and delirium: Ilillman,
m, recruited a little, but
rho season appeared to

great number of them

whoso life had been de-
nter, Hillman, employed
(Under, which the Sultan
otwithstanding the diffi-
iron, and the clumsiness
, The providing of balls
aber of musket-balls in a
jr Denham succeeded in
)f a. paper model, a small
and holding sixteen mus-
ion to his implements of

sec the guns exercised.
I the loudness of the re-
le shekh would not suffer
he, " they are too valua-
on their race, how these
am had cut out a harness
imitated in leather : this
id on the mule that drew
ipearance and effect than

;an to blow, which in the
at change in the climate,
the travelers now began
istward of Bornou. The
3 to Begharmi, a country
r to Kancm, lying to the
ir Denham determined to
id Dr. Oudney succeeded
jompany a caravan which

ARUIVAr, OF Mil. TOOLK.

491

was about starting for Kano, in the Sultan of lluus.sa'8 dominioHH. Dr
Ou.lney was extremely debiiitate.l, but as no otiior caravan was ex-
pected to start for months, in consetpience of the non-arrival (.f the cara-
\:m from Mourzuk.he determined to go, thougli aware that his strength
was scarcely e.jual to the jouniey. They loll Kouka on the 14th of De-
cember.

On the 2l8t Major Denham was delighted with the intelligence that
a small caravan liad arrived at Woodio from Mourzuk, and that there
was an EngUshman accompanying it. " The following day," he writes,
" was a day of great anxiety ; and on the 23d, very soon alter daylight'
I was overjoyed at seeing, instead of Mr. Tyrwhit, whoso bodily inlirmi'
ties made mo always consider his joinuig me doubtful, a robust, healthy-
looking young man, with a double-barreled gun slung at his back.
^VTien ho presented himself at the door of my hut, his very countenance
was an irresistible letter of recommendation, and I opened the packages
which were to account for his appearance, with considerable eagerness.
Mr. Tyrwhit, I found, had been prevented by sickness from profiting by
the consul's reconmicndation ; and that on application being made to tho
Governor of Malta, as a substitute, Mr. Toole, an ensign ui the 80th
regiment, had volunteered to join mo, and lell Malta at twenty hours'
notice. He had made tho long, dangerous and difficult journey from
Tripoli to Bornou, in the short space of three months and fourteen days,
having left the former place on the Cth of September : and overcombg
all obstacles by perseverance and resolution, both at Mourzuk and in the
Tibboo country, had arrived here with only the loss of five camels. His
arrival gave a most favorable turn to my situation at Kouka. I had now
money, health, and a desirable companion."

EXCURSIONS TO LOGGUN, AND AxiOUND LAKE TCHAD.

On tho 12th of January, 1824, news camo to Kouka, that tho shekh's
troops who had been stationed on the western bank of the Shary, a largo
river which flows into Lake Tchad from the south, had gained a victory
over the troops of the Sultan of Begharmi, which latter had retreated
from the river. It was therefore i)ossiblo to visit the country of Log-
gun, on tho Shary, with entire safety, and the shekh not only gave
Major Denham permission to proceed thither, but appointed one of his
negroes, named BeUal, to accompany him. "While I was waiting to
take leave of tho shekh," says Denham, " a note was brought to me
from Dr. Oudney, by a Bornouese from Katagum : it had no date, and
Avas indeed his last effort. The acknowledgment of being weak and
helpless assured mo that ho was really so : for during the whole of hia
long sufferings a complaint had scarcely ever escaped his lii)a. On tho
shekh's saying to him, when he first expressed his wish to accompany
the caravan, ' Surely your health is not such as to risk a journey ?' he

492

TRAVKLS OP DRNHAM AND CLAPPKRTON.

merely replied : ' Why, if I stay horc 1 sliull dio, nnd probably nooncr,
as traveling alwayn improves my heultli.' "

Acfompaiii(nl by Mr. Toolo and the negro Dellal, Major Donham
left Kouka on the 23d of Jananry, and on the 'iSth reached the town of
Showy, on the banks of tho river Shary. The magnitudo of tlio stream
drew from them an exclamation of surprise : it appeared to be full half
a mile in width, running northward at the rate of two or three miles an
hour. On tho 2d of February thoy embarked, intending to descend the
river to Lake Tchad. They were accompanied by the Kadi, or Gov-
ernor of Showy, with eight canoes, carrying ten and eleven men each.
" The river, fuU as it is of water at this season, had a highly interesting
appearance : one noblo reach succeeded another, alternately varying
their courses by handsomo sweeps, some of them three and four miles
in length ; tho banks wore thickly bcattercd with trees rich in foliage,
and all overhung with creeping plants, bearing various colored and
aromatic blossoms, among which tho purple convolvulus flourished in
great beauty." On reaching tho lake, a heavy swell from the north-east
prevented them from advancing further ; with the aid of a good tole-
scojio no land could bo discerned in that direction. Tho natives who ac-
companied them were in great fear of the Biddoomas, a fierce people,
who inhabit some islands in tho lake, and tho party therefore re-
turned up tho river to Showy, which they reached after an absence of
six days.

The travelers now continued their journey by land, and after four
days of toilsome travel, over deep marshes and through dense, thoniy
forests, reached Kussery, on the Shary. Mr. Toole became ill, and
Major Denham therefore decided to rest a day or two, to recruit him.
'• Kussery, however," says Denham, " was the last place ono should have
chosen for rest and tranquillity: during several hours in the day, tho
inhabitants themselves dare not move out, on account of the flics and
bees. Tho formation of the houses, which arc hterally one cell within
another, five or six in number, excited my surprise ; which was not a
little increased when I found that they were built expressly as a retreat
from the attacks of these insects. Still I was incredulous, until one of
our people, who had carelessly gone out, returned with his eyes and head
in such a state that ho was extremely ill for three days. Kussery is a
strong walled town, governed by an independent sultan, named Zar-
mawka, who has twice been in rebellion against the shekh. Belial was
obliged to take oflf his red cap and turban, and enter tho presence with
his head and feet bare — a ceremony which had previously been dispensed
with on our journey. The sultan merely peeped at us through a lattice-
work of bamboo, but inquired particularly why I turned my face to-
ward him as I sat. I, of course, replied, that turning my back would bo
a gross affront in my country, at which he laughed heartily."

The travelers immediately set out for Loggun, which was thirty
miles distant, but were detained on the frontier of the country until tho

peuton.

ntl probably sooner,

>llal, Major Doiiham
readied the town of
nitu'lf? of tho stream
(eared to be full half
wo or three inileH an
luling to descend the
f the Kadi, or Gov-
ind eleven men each.

a highly interesting
, alternately varying
three and four miles
I trees rich in foliage,

various colored and
irolvubia flourished in
•11 from the north-oast
e aid of ft good tole-

Tho natives who ac-
omas, a fierce people,
party therefore re-
ed after an absence of

r land, and after four
through dense, thorny
'oolo became ill, and
r two, to recruit him.
place one should have
hours in the day, the
jount of the flies and
iterally one cell within
isc; which was not a
t expressly as a retreat
credulous, until one ol
with his eyes and head
ce days. Kussery is a
int sultan, named Zar-
the shekh. Belial was
mter the presence with
Dviouslybccn dispensed
at us through a latticc-
1 turned my face to-
ling my back would bo
!d heartily."
^un, which was thirty
if the country until the

RBORPTIOJT AT LOOOUN.

498

sultan had been consulted. Tliey entered the town by the western gate,
which leads to the principal street — a wide avenue, with larg«» dwellings
on each side, built with great luiiformity, each having a court-yard iu
front, Nurroimded by walls, and a handsome taitrauce, with u strong
door husped with iron. A number of the inhabitants were seated at
their doors for the purpose of seeing the strangers enter. Tlie next
morning Major Dcnham was sent for to appear before the sultan. Ten
immense negroes, of high birth, gray-bearded, bare-headed, and carrying
large clubs, preceded him through the streets. lie was conducted to a
large sijuaro court, where Ron»o hundred persons were assembled, ail
seated upon the ground : in the middle was a vacant space where the
Major was desired to seat himself. The sultan was concealed behind a
lattice-work of cane, which being removed at a given signal, something
alive Mas discovered on a carpet, with the head enveloped in shawls,
and nothing but the eyes visible. The whole court prostrated them-
selves and ]>ourcd sand on their heads, while a harsh salute was blown
from loud horns. After receiving his present the sultan whisjtered a
welcome ; for it is considered so very ill-bred in a Logguu gentle-
man to speak out, that the sound of their voices can with ditliculty
bo heard.

" TiOggun," says Major Denham, " the capital of which country, Ker-
nuk Loggun, is on the banks of the Shary, and in 11° 7' north latitude,
is a very populous country. Kemuk has fifteen thousand inhabitants
at least. They speak a language nearly Begharmi. The Shouaas aro
all around them, and to them they are indebted for the plentiful supply
of bullocks, milk, and fat with which the market abounds. Tliey have,
also, a metal currency in Loggun, the first I had seen in Negroland. It
consists of thin plates of iron, something in the shape of tiie tip with
which they shoe race-horses. These are made into parcels of ten and
twelve, according to the weight, and thirty of these parcels aro equal in
value to ten rottola, or a dollar."

On the 19th, Mr. Toole seemed better, and Major Denham left him
for the purpose of proceeding up the Shary for a day or two. lie had
proceeded but a few miles, however, when ;. i express from the sultan
overtook him, announcing that the Begharmis were again marching on
Loggun, and that he should return at once. On visiting the sultan, he
endeavored to ])ersuade him to allow bim to remain. " More than half
my people are Begharmi," said the sultan. " I have no protection to
give — go while you can I" Mr. Toole was fastened upon a horse, as he
was unable to sit up ; and, with no provisions but a sack of parched
com which the sultan gave them, at four o'clock the same day they
quitted the town, when the three gates were shut upon them by an
immense crowd of people. For three days they continued their flight,
with scarcely any rest, until they reached Angala, in the Shekh of
Bomou's dominions, where they considered themselves comparatively

494

TRAVELS OP DENIIAM AND CLAPPERTON.

safe. Mr, Toolo \v:is filt ornately senseless and delirious durincf this
journey.

" At An"-ala," says ;^^ajor Denhani, " we took up our old quarters ;
and Mr. Toole on being told •where he was, exclaimed : ' Thank God !

lANGER OF THE SULTAK OF BEGDARMT.

then I shall not die !' And so much better was he for the two follow-
ing days, that I had great hopes of his recovery ; about four o'clock,
however, on the morning of the 26th of February, these hopes were at
an end. A cold shivering had seized him, and his extremities were like
ice. I gave him both tea and rice-water ; and there was but little alter-
ation in him until just before noon, when, without a struggle or a groan.

PPERTON.
delirious during this

up our old quarters ;
limed : ' Thank God !

ABin.

he for the two follow-
ery; about four o'clock,
iry, these hopes were at
his extremities were like
there was but little altcr-
ut a struggle or a groan,

DEATHS OP TOOLE AND OUDNET.

495

he expired, completely worn out and exhausted. The same afternoon,
just as the sun was sinking below the horizon, I followed his remains to
their last resting-place, a deep grave whieh six of the Sultan of Angala's
slaves had prepared, under my direction, to the north-west of the town,
overhung by a clump of mimosas in full blossom. The prime minister
attended the procession with his stall* of office, and a silent prayer,
breathed over all that remained of my departed friend, was the best
funeral service circumstances allowed mo to perform. After raising over
the grave a pile of thorns and branches of the prickly tulloh, severnl feet
high, as a protection against the herds of hyenas who nighty infest the
burying-places in this country, I returned to the town."

An immediate return to Kouka was now rendered necessary, and
Major Denham arrived there on the 2d of March. The flitigue, anxiety
of mind, and loss of rest which ho had endured, brought on an attack
of fever which confined him to his mat for ten days. A few days after
his arrival a courier returned from Kano, bringing intelligence of the
death of Dr. Oudney, at a place called Murmur, on the 12th of January.
On the 28th of March the Shekh of Bomou, who had gone with what
troops he could raise to repel the Begharmis, met them, five thousand
strong, near Angala, and, with the assistance of his four-pounders, routed
them with great slaughter. Of two hundred Bcgharmi chiefs, only
one escaped alive ; seven sons of the sultan and seventeen hundred
rien were amoiig the slain. The plunder amounted to four hundred
and eighty horses, two hundred women, and the baggage of the
princes. The rejoicings in Kouka over this victory, lasted for several
days.

Major Denham took advantage of the shekh's good-humor to apply
for his protection on a journey to the eastward, hoping to penetrate
through to SennAar. The shekh, however, declared that the project
was impossible ; bat toward the end of April, Denham ascertained that
a secret expedition was preparing to march against a tribe of Arabs easC
of Lake Tchad, who were allies of the Sultan of Begharmi. lie received
permission to take part in this foray, and left; Kouka on the 4th of May ;
but as the Ramadan, or Moslem fast, was just commencing, the expe-
dition was put off for a mom'. On the 19th, news came that Mr. Tyr-
whit had arrived at the river Yeou, and Major Denham went out the
next day to meet him. This gentleman had been sent out by the British
government to strengthen the party. He was the bearer of presents
to the shekh, in acknowledgment of the kind reception the expedition
had met with, and was also accompanied by the shekh's children, who
had been detained at Mourzuk by the intrigues of the late Sultan of
Fezzan.

" On the 22d of May," says Major Denham, " we delivered the pres-
ents from his majesty in full form, consisting of two swords of very
beautiful Avorkmanship, two pair of pistols, a dagger, and two gold
watches. The delight, nay ecstasy, with which these well-selected spcci-

496

TRAVELS OF DBNHAM AND CLAPPBRTON.

mens of our manufactories were received by EI Kanemy, was apparent
in every feature of his intelligent countenance, and in the quick glances
of his sparkling and penetratbg eye. The dagger and the watch with
the second movement, were the articles which struck him most forcibly ;
and when I mentioned that, agreeably to his request, a parcel of rock-
ets had a'so been forwarded, he Csxcliumcd : ' What ! beside all these
riches ! there arc no friends like these ! they are all truth ; and I see,
by the Book, that if the Prophet had lived only a short time longer,
they would all have been Moslem !' "

On the 16th of Juno Major Denham set out for the eastern side of
Lake Tchad, accompanied by Mr. Tyrwhit. The military expedi-
tion was commenced by Barca Gana, who was directed to take all
possible care of the travelers. They crossed the Shary at Showy,
and advanced between forty and fifty miles further to the eastward,
along the shore of Lake Tchad, till, on approaching Mendoo, a large
town in the rebel country, Barca Gana ordered them to halt until
the town should be taken, and they were obliged to comply. Their
situation was very unpleasant, as they were exposed to attack, and
from their vicinity to the lake, suffered greatly from the flies and
mosquitoes. Here they remained several days in the greatest sus-
pense, their provisions daily becoming more scanty. Finally, on the
evening of July 5th, Barca Gana returned with about half his troops ;
he had found the enemy so strongly entrenched at Maou, the capita^
that he did not dare to attack them. Four days afterward he set out to
capture the rebel sultan Amai<ook. who had taken refuge on one of the
islands in the lake, but was repulsed with severe loss, receiving himself
a spear-wound in the back. Major Denham dressed the wound with an
application of burnt fat and sulphur, and succeeded in heaUng the gen-
eral, who advised him urgently to return to Kouka. "The excundon,**
he said, " which you wish to make, is now impracticable. We mast
wait for the shekh's appearance before we can do any thing, and I think,
as the rains have now begun to fall, you will find that the f^ekh will not
come, and that we shall all return."

As wc had not more than four days' provisions left. Major Denham,
after another consultation with Barca Gana, determined to follow his
advice and return. He had now been ten days among this tribe of
Shouaas, i/ho were a superior class to any he had met with ; they were
rich in cattle and in camels, and seemed to live in plenty and patriarchal
simplicity. They were a handsome race, the women especially, who
brought the travelers bowls of fresh milk, night and morning, in ex-
change for bits of amber. Says Major Denham: "There is something
so curious, and singularly interesting and expressive in the Shouaa man-
ners and language, that I am at a loss how to describe it. A ^rl sits
down by your tent with a bowl of milk, a dark-blue cotton wrapper tied
around her waist, and a mantilla of the same thrown over her head, with
which she hides her face, yet leaves her bust naked. She says * A happy

APPBRTON.

Kancmy, was apparent
nd in the quick glances
;cr and the watch with
ruck him most forcibly ;
quest, a parcel of rock-
What! beside all these
ro all truth ; and I see,
ily a short time longer,

for the eastern side of
The military expedi-
ras directed to take all
I the Shary at Showy,
iirther to the eastward,
laching Mendoo, a large
jred them to halt until
iiged to comply. Their

exposed to attack, and
jatly from the flies and
ys in the greatest bus-

scanty. Finally, on the
h about half his troops ;
ed at Maou, the capital,
rs afterward he set out to
ken refuge on one of the
ire loss, receiving himself
ressed the wound with an
seeded in healing the gen-
[ouka. "The excursion,"
impracticable. We must
lo any thing, and I think,
[id that the c^ekh will not

sions left, Major Denham,
determined to follow his
lays among this tribe of
bad met with ; they were
3 in plenty and patriarchal
le women especially, who
light and morning, in e»-
ira: "There is something
essive in the Shouaa man-
,o describe it. A girl sits
k-blue cotton wrapper tied
brown over her head, with
laked. She says 'A happy

mmi

mtmmm

RETURN OP CAPTAIN OLAPPERTON.

497

day to you I Your friend has broiiglit you milk ; you gave her some-
thing so handsome yesterday, she has not forgotten it. Oh ! how her
eyes ache to see all you have got in that wooden house ;' pointing to a
trunk. • We have no fears now ; we know you are good ; and our eyes,
which before could not look at you, now search after you always. They
bade us beware of you at first, for you were bad, very bad ; but we
know better now. How it pains us that you are so white !' "

On the 18th of July, after having experienced heavy rains and hurri-
canes on the way, the travelers again reached their residence in the cap-
ital of Bomou. " On our arrival at Kouka," says the narrative, " I found
that Captain Clapperton, with a small caravan, had returned from Sou-
dan. It was nearly eight months since we had separated, and although
it was mid-day, I went immediately to the hut where he was lodged ;
but so satisfied was I that the sun-burnt, sickly person, who lay extended
on the floor, rolled in a dark-bluo shirt, was not my companion, that I
was about to leave the place, when he convinced me of my error by
calling me by my name. The alteration in him was certainly most
striking. Our meeting was a melancholy one ; he had buried his com-
panion, and I had also closed the eyes of my younger and more robust
colleague, Mr, Toole. Notwithstanding the state of weakness in which
I found Captain Clapperton, he yet spoke of returning to Soudan after
the rains."

CLAPPERTON'S JOUI^NET TO SACKATOO.

Captain Clapperton and Dr. Oudney, it will be remembered, had left
Kouka on the 14th of December, 1823, for Soudan, intending to explore
the unknown region lying between Bomou and the Niger. They took
with them Jacob, the Gibraltar Jew, two servants, and three natives of
Fezzan. The caravan consisted of twenty-seven merchants, two of whom
were shereefs, or descendants of the prophet. They took the road to
tlie ruins of Old Birnie, which Denham and Oudney had already visited,
and then proceeded westward along the banks of the Yeou, which was
much swollen from the summer rains. After a journey of twelve days,
they entered the territory of Bedeguna, which formerly belonged to the
Sultan of Bomou ; the inhabitants spoke the Bomou language. They
are regarded as a race of outlaws, and are subject to be carried off as
slaves both by the natives of Bomou and Houssa.

On the 2d of January, the travelers approached the city of Katagum,
and Avcre met by a servant of the governor, with a small basket of goora
nuts. He was followed by a party of horsemen who came up at full
gallop, brandishing their spears. The leader remained behind with the
band of music. The horsemen, after saluting the travelers, wheeled
around and rode on before them, the drummers beating their drums,
and two bards singing the praises of their master, one of them taking

498

TRAVELS OP DBNHAM AND OLAPPERTON.

the Bong and the other responding with the chorus* The governor re-
ceived them in a very friendly manner. Tliey remained at this place
eight days, partly on account of Dr. Oudney's illness, and partly to wait
for one of the Bomoueso who was to accompany them to Sackatoo, and
who had gone oft* to a town called Iladeeja. Dr. Oudney was very
feeble and troubled with a distressing cough, to relievo which Oiic of the
natives cupped him on the side.

'riiey left on the 10th of January, but were obliged to stop the next
day at noon, on account of the increasmg weakness of Dr. Oudney. Ho
had been wasting away in a slow consumption, ever since leavuig the
hills of Obarree, ui Fezzan, where he was seized with mflammation of the
chest, in consequence of sitting down in a current of cold air after being
heated. On the 12th, Captain Clapperton writes : " Dr. Oudney drank
a cup of coffee at day-break, and, by hU desire, I ordered the camels to
bo loaded. I then assisted him to dress, and, with the support of his
servant, he came out of the tent; but, before he could be lifted on the
camel, I observed the ghastliness of death in his countenance, and had
him unmediately replaced in the tent. I sat down by his side, and with
unspeakable grief, witnessed his last breath, which was without a strug-
gle or a groan. I now sent to the governor of tho town to request his
permission to bury the deceased, which ho readily granted ; and I had a
grave made near an old mimosa-tree, a little beyond tho southern gate
of the town. The body being first washed, after the custom of the cotm •
try, was dressed by my directions in clothes made of turban shawk,
which wo were carrying with us as presents. Tho corpse was bomo to
the grave by our servants, and I read over it the funeral service of tho
church of England, before it was consigned to tho earth. I afterward
caused the grave to bo inclosed with a wall of clay, to keep off bcjists of
prey, and had two sheep killed and distributed among the poor."

Clapperton now continued his journey alone, and two days afterward
entered the kingdom of Houssa. The country was highly cultivated,

• Captain Clapperton gives the following translation of tho song:
" Give flesh to the hyenas at day-break :

Oh, the broad spears 1
The spear of the sultan is the broadest —

Oh, the broad spears 1
I behold thee now, I desire to see none other ;

Oh, the broad spears I
My horse is as tall as a high wall :

Oh, the broad spears I
The elephant of the forest brings me what I want:

Oh, the broad spears 1
Be brave I be bravo 1 my friends and kinsmen:

Oh, the broad spears I
God is great I I wax fierce as a beast of prey :

Oh, the broad spears I
God is great ! To-day those I wished for are come ;

Oh, the broad spears I"

MMM

PRRTON. I

" The governor rc-

lained at this place |

a, and partly to wait j

lem to Sackatoo, and ,

ir. Oudncy was very |

icvo which oac of the ■

iged to stop the next j
I of Dr. Oudncy. Hu ,
k'cr since leaving the {
;h inflammation of the i
jf cold air after Wing |

" Dr. Oudney drank ;
ordered the camels to
th the Bupport of hia
could be lifted on the
countenance, and had
1 by his side, and with
li was without a strug-
10 town to request his
r granted ; and I had a
ond the southern gate
;he custom of the co)m •
lade of turban shawls,
10 corpse was borne to
! funeral service of the
he earth. I afterward
y, tokeepoffbciistsof
nong the poor."
ind two days afterward

was highly cultivated,

ho song:

I other ;

bat I want:

inamen:

if prey:

for are oome;

UESIDENJK AT KANO.

499

a.id diversified by hill and dale. There were many largo walled towns,
quite deserted, the inhabitants having bpcii curriod off and sold by their
conquerors, the Felatahs. On the 20tli of January, he approached the
large city of Kano, and prei)ared hims('lf for the reception by arraying
himself in his naval uniform. "At 11 o'clock,'" says he, " we entered
Kano, the great cniporiiun of the kingdom of Iloussa ; but I had no
sooner passed the gates than I felt grievously disappointed ; for from the
flourishing description of it given by the Arabs, I expected to see a city
of surprising grandeur. I found, on the contrary, the houses nearly a
quarter of a mile from the Avails, and in many paits scattered into de-
tached groups, between large stagnant jiools of water. I might have
BiKired all the pains I had taken with my toilet ; for not an individual
turned his head around to gaze at me, but all, intent on their own busi-
ness, allowed mo to passs by without notice or remark."

lie innnediatcly called upon a jierson named Hat Salah, to whom he
had a letter of recommendation from the shekh of Bornou. This person,
having heard of his coming the day before, had hired a house for him,
but, says Clapperton, " the houso provided for me was situated at the
end of a marsh, the pestilential exhalations of M'hich, and of the pools of
standing water, were increased by the sewers of the houses all opening
in the street. I was fatigued and siek, and lay down on a mat which
the owner of the house spread for me. I was iinuicdiately visited by all
the Arab merchants who had been my fellow-travelers from Kouka, and
Avere not jirevented by sickness from coming to see me. They were
more like ghosts thaii men, as almost all strangers A\ere at this tune suf-
fering from intermittent fever."

Two days afterward, Clapperton visited the governor, Avho was
then encamped about five miles e.ast of the city. He took Avith him a
number of presents, among Avhich was a broken thermometer, which, he
was given to understand, would bo A'cry acceptable. A thermometer was
descriptively named by the natives *' a AA'atch of heat," and was everyAvhere
regarded by them as a great curiosity. The governor, who Avas the
father of fifty sons — a circumstance, Avhich procured him much respect
and honor — received him with great kindness, and promised to send a
messenger to the sultan, at Sackatoo, requesting permission for him to
proceed. This permission, hoAvever, did not arrive for a month, during
which time the traveler remained domiciled at Kano.

" The city," says he, " may contain from thirty thousand to forty tliou-
sand resident inhabitants, of Avhom more than one half are slaves. It is ren-
dered very imhealthy by a large morass, which almost divides it into two
parts, besides many pools of stagnant water, made by digging clay for
building houses. On the north side of the city are two remarkable
mounts, each about two hundred feet in height, and a trifling distance;
apart. The city is of an irregular oval sha{>e, about fifteen miles in cir-
cumference, and surrounded by a clay wall thirty feet high, with a dry
ditch along the inside, and another on the outside. There are fifteen

600

TRAVKLS OP DENHAM AND CLAPPEUTOK.

i^;

L'atiii of wo..a, covered with Bhect-iron, which arc rt.j,n,larly opcnoa an.l
Hhut' at Hunrise ami Hunset. The houscH are built of chiy ami arc mostly
of a square form, in the Moorish fashion, with a central hall ot au.l.encc
ana store-rooms on the grouml-floor, and a second story oontammg the
Bleeping apartments. I bought in the market, for three Span-sh dollars
an English green cotton umbrella, an article I Uttle expected to mott
with, yet by no means uncommon ; my Moorish servants, m their hgu- ^
rative language, were wont to give it the name of ' the cloud. i

Captain Clappcrton had heard a great deal about the boxers of
IIou8sa,and was anxious to witness their perf..rmanees. He sent one
of his servants to offer 2,000 cowries for an exhibition botoro his house
As the death of one of the combatants was almost certain, he prohibi e.l
all fighting in earnest. " A ring was 80.m formed, by the master of the
ceremonies throwing dust on tho spectators to make them stand bac^k
The drummers entered the ring, and began to drum lustily. One of the
boxers foUowcd, quite naked, except a skin around the middle. lie
placed himself in an attitude, as if to oppose an antagonist, and wrought
L muscles into action, seemingly to find out that every mnew was m
full force for the approaching combat; then, coming from time to time
to the side of the ring, and presenting his riglit arm to the bystanders,
he said : ' I am a hyena; I am a lion ; I am able to kil all that oppose
me.' Tho spectators, to whom ho presented himself, laid their hands
upon his shoulders repeating: 'The blessing of God be upon thee t^^^ou
art a hyena ; thou art a Hon.' Ho then abandoned the ring to another,
^vho showed off in the same manner. The right haml and arm of he
pugilists were now bound with narrow country coth beginning with a
fold around tho middle finger, when the hand being first chnched with
tiie thumb between tho fore and mid fingers, the cloth wa« passed m
many turns around the fist, the wrist, and the ^re-arm. After about
twenty had separately gone through the attitudes of defiance, and aj.
peals to tlie bystanders, they were next brought forward by pairs. If thej
happened to be friends, they laid their lea breasts together twice, and ex-
chid : ' We are lions ; we are friends.' If the two did not recognize
each other as friends, the set-to immediately commenced. On taking
their stations, the two pugilists first stood at some distance, parrying
with the left hand open, and, whenever an opportunity offered, strik-
,„.r with the right. They generally aimed at tho pit of tho stomach, and
lUKler the ribs. When they break loose, they never fail to give a swing-
ing blow with the heel under tho ribs, or sometimes under the left ear.
It b these blows which are so often fatal." , . . ^ , . ^,

The permission of the Sultan of Iloussa, for which Captam Clapper-
ton had been waiting, arrived on the 22d day of February, and on the
foUowing day he left Kano for Sackatoo. After tniveling eighteen days,
without particular incident, ho reached the town of Quarry where ho
was met by an escort of an hundred and fifty horsemen, sent forward by
the Sultan of Iloussa. On the third day afterAvard he approached Sacka-

PPERTON. 1

ri'gdlarly opontil ftinl
)( cluy, aiul arc uioaily
Mitral hall of aiuVu-nce
1 Btory oontiiiniiig tho
• three Spair«h dollars,
ttlo cxpecteil to meet
servants, in their figu-
f ' the cloud.' "
i about tho boxers of
•manees. Ho sent one
lition before his hoiise.
it certaii\, he prohibited
d, by the master of the
(iiako them stand bact.
rum lustily. One of the
roimd tho middle. lie
antagonist, andwrouglit
that every sinew was in
ming from time to time
;t arm to the bystanders,
Ic to kill all that oppose
limself, laid their hands
God be upon thee ! thou
pned tho ring to another,
rht hand and arm of the
} cloth, beginning with a
[being first clinched with
t, the cloth was passed in
|c fore-arm. After about
udes of defiance, and a\y-
forward by piurs. If they
its together twice, and ex-
he two did not recognize
commenced. On taking
t some distance, parrying
Ipportimity offered, strik-
■ho pit of tho stomach, and
never fail to give a swing-
letimes under tho left ear.

,or which Captain Clapper-
\y of February, and on the

pr traveling eighteen days,
Jtown of Quarra, where ho
lhor8emen,Bent forward by

vard he approached Sacka-

INTEnVIEW WITH SULTAN BKLLO.

501

too, followed by his escort and A numerous retinue, with n loud flotirish
of horns and trumpets. To impress tho natives still further with liis
official importance, ho arrayed himself in his lieutenant's coat, trimmed
with gold lace, white trowsers, silk stockings, and, to complete his finery,
red Turkish slippers and a turban. The valleys between tlio hills b('-
c.'une wider as tliey apitro.iched Haekatoo, which they first beheld from
tho top of an eminence. At noon they entered the capital, whcns a
great number of people was asaetnbled to look at tho traveler, who
entered the city amid tho hearty welcomes of young and old. lie was
conducted to the house of tlio vizier, Avhere apartments had been j)re-
pared for him.

The next day ho called upon Sultan Rello, who received him very
cordially. lie was a noble-looking man, forty-four years of age, five feet
ten inches high, portly in person, with a short, curling black beard, a
small mouth, a fine forehead, a Grecian nose, and large black eyes.
He asked many questions about Europe, and the religious distinctions
of the Franks. lie was acquainted with the names of the ancient sects,
and asked whether the English Avere Nestorians or Socinians. Cap-
tain Clapperton also read him some passages out of a book, in order
that lie might hear the sound of tho English language, which ho thought
beautiful. On being presented with a compass, spy-glass, and other
articles, he said : " Every thing is wonderful ; but you are the greatest
curiosity of all." Ho perused tho letter of the Shekh of Bomou, and
assured Clajiperton that ho was at liberty to visit every part of his
dominions, including Yaouri and Nyffe, which the latter was anxious to
reach, in tho hope of learning something further concernmg tho fate
of Park.

From an interview a faw days after this, however, Clapperton saw
that the sultan was becoming suspicious. Ho observed that there were
two roads leading to Nyffe — one direct, but beset by enemies, the
other safer, but circuitous ; that by cither route ho would bo detained,
during tho rains, in a country then in open rebellion. " I assured hira,'»
says Clapperton, " that I had already taken the matter into considerap
tion, and that I was neither afraid of tho dangers of tho road nor of the
rains. ' Think of it with prudence,' he replied, and we parted. From
the tone and manner with which this was spoken, I felt a foreboding
that my intended visit to Yaotiri and Nyffe was at an end. I could not
help suspecting the intrigues of the Arabs to bo the cause ; as they well
knew, if the native Africans were once acquainted with English com-
merce by tho way of the sea, their own lucrative inland trade would
from that moment cease." Clapperton's surmises were correct, and
after several further consultations on the subject he was obliged to
give up the plan of proceeding beyond Sackatoo. After a residence
of six weeks in the Felatah capital, during which he had a severe attack
of fever, he began to prepare for his return journey to Bomou.

He gives the following description of tho city : " It lies in latitude

502 TRAVELS Ol-' DKNUAM \N'U C I, A 1> I' K UTO.V.

13" 4' north, im.l U.njritu.lo ti" iJ' v^M, nUnM lour .lus jminu-y from tho
Oi.urni or Niijor. Thu im.nc, ii. their lui.-.m-.', Mgrnlus a hult.nK-
Ic/tho city WU.S built, as near as 1 euuM lean., about tho year
1805. It occupies a Ion- ria^c which h1o,,os ucnl y towar.l he north,
and a,.i.carc<l to n,c tho ino.t populoUH tow.. I had vw.ttMl m tho
iutcrior of Africa, for u,.liko other tow.s i.. 1 luusna wh.rc tho ho.mcs
a,-o thh.ly scattered, it is h.i.l out in .v^.Ua.-, wd -bu.lt «trect.s Il.o
wall id between twenty and thirty feet h.gh, and has twelve gate. ,
which are regularly closed at H.n.set. There is a spacious market-
place in tho center of the city, an.l another la.-ge scjuare in front ol
!he sultan's residence. The dwellh.gs of the i.rinc.pal people arc sur-
rounded by high walls, which h.close nume.-ous flat-roofl-d houses bu.lt
i„ the Moorish style. Tho i..habitants are principaUy lelatahs, possess-

ing numerous slaves." i- nf , , „^

Captain Clapperton set out on his return, on tho 4tli of May, pro-
ceciling to Kano by way of the largo town of Kashna. On tho 8th ot
July ho reached Kouka, duru.g Major Dcnham's absence on a visit to
the eastern shore of Lake Tchad. Ilillman, the carpenter, was bus. y
employed «i tinishing a covered cart, to be used as a conveyance for ho
shekh's wives. Tho workmanship, considering tho materials, n fleeted
the greatest credit on his ingenuity ; the wheels were hooped with iron,
and the cart was extremely strong, though neither hght nor handsome.
Captain Clapporton unmediately waited on tho shekh, who i.uiuircd aller
his health, and expressed much regret at Dr. Oudney'a death.

RETURN TO EUROPE,

The travelerfl had now accomplished the principal objects of their
mission and explored as much of Central Africa as was practicable with-
out remaining another season, which, in their state of health, wjm not
advisable. They therefore deternuned to return to Tripoli with tho
annnal caravan of slaves, which passed through Bornou on its way from
Soudan. This caravan arrived at Kouka on tho 1 3th of August. On
Monday, the 16th," says Miyor Denham, "wo took our final leave ot
Kouka, and not without many feelings of regret, so accustomed had wo
become, particukrly myself, to the people. In the morning I had taken
leave of the shekh in his garden, when ho had given me a letter to the
king and a list of requests: he was all kindness, and said he had only
one wish, which was that I might find all ray friends well, and once
more return to them. He gave me his hand at parting, which excited
an involuntary exclamation of astonishment from the six eunuchs and
the vizier, who were the only persons present."

The travelers preceded the caravan a few days, in order to attempt
to reach the unvisited eastern side of Lake Tchad, through tho country
of Kanem. On the 23d they crossed the river Yeou, and Denham ob-

I'PKRTOK.

l;v_vs journey from ll'.o

biifiiitii's a ' liultinK-

i-iini, alx'iit tlio )f:ir

lly towiinl tho north,

I hud vwitctl in tho
issii, whi-ro the houses
oil-built Htrc'ots. Tho
m\ hiw twclvo gates,

is u Hpaeious niarket-
igo siiunrw in front of
n<;ip«l people arc sur-
lliit-roofed houses built
pally Fflatahs, possess-

,u tho 4th of ^lay, pvo-
ishna. On the 8th of
x'a absence on a visit tt»
»e carpenter, was busily
iw a conveyance for tlui
tho materials, rcttccted
wei-e hooped with iron,
l»er light nor handsome.
ihckh,"vlio iiKiuircd after
idney'a death.

rincipal objects of their
as was practicable with-

state of health, was not

urn to Tripoli with tho
Bornou on its way from

13th of August. "On
took our final leave of

!t, so accustomed had wo
the morning I had taken
;iven me a letter to tho
18, and said he had only
ly friends well, and once
at parting, which excited
rom the six eunuchs and

days, in order to attempt
lad, through the country
r Yeou, and Denham ob-

■WKLCOMK AT MOUnZtTK.

008

Rcrvos: "My feelings on seeing this river f<)r a second timo wore very
(litterent from what thoy had been when I first looked on its waters.
We liad then an es«-ort of two hundred men, and ye» could not feel our-
selves in jiertect safety one hundred yards from oiu- tents. Now I had
only one attendant — the |M>opIe about mc were all natives, and I wan-
dered about the banks of tho river witli |>erfeet freedom, !ind slept with
my tent-tloor open, in as great a security as I could liav(^ doiio in any
part of England, had I been obliged so to travel. Other feelings .also
obtruded themselves; I was about to return home, to see onc(( mom
dear friends and n dear country, after an absence of nearly three years,
on a duty full of perils and difllculties j two out of four of my companions
had fallen victims to climate and disease, while those who remained were
suft'oring, in no small degree, from sickncas and debility."

At Woodio Major Denham met with Uarca Gana, who, after an al>-
senco of five months, had completed tho circuit of tho lake. Tho latter
gave him a guard of eighteen men, with which ho advanced about fifty
miles eastward along tho shore of tho lake, when the journey became so
dangerous, that tho guard refused to go further, and Denham was com-
pelled to return. Ho therefore pitched his tent at Woodio, to await tho
arrival of tho carav.an from Konka, which did not finally depart for the
desert nntil tho 14th of Sei)tcmhor. " Wo had tho satisfaction," says
Major Denham, " to find throughout our journey, that, young as wo
were at desert traveling, yet wo got on as well, if not better, than our
companions ; and though children of tho soil, they always looked to ns,
instead of us to them, both for safety and protection, as well as the
direction of tho route."

Tho caravan arrived at Bilma on tho 11th of October, and proceeding
by easy journeys toward Fezzan, reached Gatrono on tho 14th of No-
vember. This place, before so miserable in their eyes, now seemed a
little paradise. Seven days afterward they entered Mourzuk, and took
up their residence in their old habitation. Prayer w.as offered up in the
mosque for their safe return home. " All welcomed our return ; we had
bowls of bazeen and kooacosoo night and morning, and visitors from day-
light until long after sunset. * * * On the 12th of December wo
Avero all resvdy for our departure, and on the 13th took our leave. The
cold of Mourzuk had pinched us terribly, and notwithstanding we used
an additional blanket both day and night, one of us had cold and swelled
neck, another ague, and a third pains in the limbs — all, I believe, prin-
cipally from tho chilliness of the air : yet the thermometer, at simrise,
was not lower than forty-two and forty-three degrees.

" On the 25th of January, 1825, we reached a well within ten miles
of Tripoli ; and previous to arriving there were met by two cawasses of
the pasha, with one of the consul's servants. We found the consul's
tents, but he had been obliged to return on business to the city ; and
the satisfaction with which we devoured some anchovy toasts, and
washed them down with huge draughts of Marsala wme, in tumblers —

'■a-*

504 TRAVELS OF DBNHAM AND CLAPPERTON.

luxuries we had bo long indeed been strangers to-was quite indescriba.
ble We slept soundly after our feast, and on the 26th, were met by the
consul and his eldest son, whose satisfaction at our safe return seemed
equal to our own. We entered TripoU the same day, where ahousehad
been provided for us. Our long absence from civilized society appeared
to have an effect on our manner of speaking, which, though we were un-
conscious of it, occasioned the remarks of our friends: even "^ common
conversation our tone was so loud as almost to alarm those we addressed,
and it was some weeks before we could moderate our voices so as to
bring them in harmony with the confined space in which we were now

exercising them."

Denham and Clapperton had a stormy passage to Leghorn, where
they were obUged to perform a quarantine of twenty-five days. From
Leghorn HiUman was sent home by sea with the Uving animals, collec-
tions, and baggage of the expedition. The two travelers crossed the
Alps, and reached London on the Ist of June, after an absence from
England of three years and a half.

"lPPERTON.

—was quite indescribsp
26th, were met by the
or safe return seemed
Jay, where a house had
ilized society appeared
h, though we were un-
ends : even in common
rm those we addressed,
,te our voices so as to
in which we were now

age to Leghorn, where
renty-five days. From
! living animals, coUec-
) travelers crossed the
after an absence from

CLAPPEETON^S

SECOND JOURNEY TO SACKATOO.

During Captam Clapperton's first visit to Sackatoo, in the year
1824, he was given to understand that the establishment of a friend'y
intercourse >nth England would be most agreeable to Sultan Belb that
he latter wished particularly for certain articles of EngUsh manufecture
to be sent out to the sea-coast, where there was a largf port bdongW
to him, called Funda. He also desired that an Enjish phySJaS
consul should be sent to another port, caUed Rakka,VonJ ng to se^d
an agent to the latter place, to transact all matters of business^etween
the two governments. "ci-wccu

urst^^tht'rT^il^''"'''^ ""'^ Clapperton to England, Lord Bath-
nrllw \ * Secretary), considering this a favorable opportunity

of estabhshmg an mtercourse with the interior of Africa, and probab v
of checking the trade in slaves, adopted Clapperton's suggestions, and
dispatched hmi on a second mission to Sackatoo, by wa/ff the BigM

that the latter should send down his messengers to Whydah on the
coast, to meet Captain Clapperton and his companions. On the' arrival
of the latter at Benm, however, they could neither gain any intelligence
of BeUo's messengers, nor did the people know any thmg of such places
as Funda and Rakka. It has since been ascertained fha both these
towns are upon the Niger, at least two hundred miles from the sea.

Captain Clapperton was aUowed to take with him, as companion a
surgeon by the name of Dickson, who had been seasoned by a rSnce
m the West Indies. In an enterprise of so hazardous a /ature, t w^

a more thorough survey of the different countries of Soudan. For this
wir' 1 ??"" P^^'-f '.of the navy, and Dr. Morrison, a naval surgeon,
were selected; one being a good draughtsman, and the other weU

srrv!n/??°f Tl^'T^' ^*P*^ Clapperton also took with him his
servant, Richard Lander, and tb- mulatto Columbus, who had been in
the service of Major Denham. The party saUed from England on th^

506 CLAPPERTON'S SECOND JOURNEY TO 8ACKAT00.

2nii of August, and arrived in the Bight of Benin on the 26th of No-
vembur, 1825. Dr. Dickson, being desirous of proceeding alone to
Sackatoo, Avas landed at Whydah, and accompanied by Columbus, pro-
ceeded to Dahomey, where he was well received. He was sent forward
to a place called Shar, seventeen days' journey further, beyond which
nothing more was ever afterward heard of him.

Captain Clapperton M-as persuaded by a trader named Iloutson, to
make Badagry his starting-point ; ho agreed to accompany him as far
as Eyeo, or Katunga, the capital of the kingdom of Yoriba. UTiey
landed on the 27th of November, and after having made arrangements
to have their baggage sent after them, started on their jourtiey into the
interior on the 7th of December. As they were under the protection
of the King of Badagry, they met with no difficulties in the early part
of their ' oute. At the different towns they were always received by the
caboceers, or chief men, to whom they made small presents, and who
supplied them with lodgings and provisions. In two or three days they
entered the territories of the king of Yoriba, after which they ex-
perienced some trouble in procuring men and beasts to transport their
baggage. Their road led through dense forests, the dampness of which,
added'to the fact of their traveling partly by night, brought on attacks
of fever and ague, with which the whole party suffered.

On the 13th thcv reached the town of Laboo. The country now
became more agreeable, rising into hill and dale, with fine prospects.
They approached the town by the moonlight through an avenue of
majestic trees, with fetish-houses placed here and there, and solitary
lights burning in each. Two days afterward they reached the largo
town of Jannah, where the caboceer, who at first received them in rather
a reserved and ceremonious manner, finally assured them that they
might proceed safely as far as Eyeo, the capital, but he did not believe
that the king would allow them to go beyond it. "I can not," says
Clapperton, " omit bearing testimony to the singular and perhaps unpre-
cedented fact that we have already traveled sixty miles in eight days,
with a numerous and heavy baggage, and about ten different relays of
carriers, without losing so much as the value of a shilling, public or

private." .

Meanwhile the sick continued to grow worse, with the exception ot
Richard Lander, who, after being bled on the temple and bUstered on
the head, improved. On the 23d, Dr. Morrison was so weak that he
determined to return, and Mr. Houtson was sent back to take charge
of him. On the following day, at a town caUed Egga, a seaman named
George Dawson, died, and was buried the same evening. Three days
afterward, Captain Pearce died, and was buried near the town of En-
gwa, the whole of the population attending the funeral. The grave
was staked around by the natives, and a shed built over it: Richard
Lander carved an inscription on a board, and placed it at the head.
Clapperton now determined to wmt for Mr. Houtson, who returned on

SACKATOO.

on the 20th of No-
ocecding alono to
by Columbus, pro-
[e vraa sent forward
ther, beyond which

named Iloutrfon, to
3ompany him as far

I of Yoriba. They
made arrangements
eir journey into the
ader the protection
:ies in the early part
vays received by the

II presents, and who

or three days they
fter which they ex-
sts to transport their
3 dampness of which,
t, brought on attacks
bred.

0. The country now

1, with fine prospects,
rough an avenue of

1 there, and solitary
ey reached the largo
ceived them in rather
ircd them that they
»ut he did not believe
b. "I can not," says
ar and perhaps unpre-
miles in eight days,
ten different relays of
• a shilling, public or

jpith the exception of
mple and blistered on
was so weak that he
back to take charge
igga, a seaman named
evening. Three days
near the town of En-
I funeral. The grave
)uilt over it: Richard
)laced it at the head,
son, who returned on

.MMMM«n»«

ARRIVAL AT KATUNOA.

507

the 31st, with the news that Dr. Morrison had died at Jannah, on the
same day as Captain Pearcc. Tims in the short space of three weeks,
three persons, or one half the party, had perished ; yet the survivors
manfully pushed on, although Clapperton waa so ill that ho was obliged
to be carried in a hammock.

The country became more hilly and picturesque as they advanced.
On the i;uh of January, 1826, they entered a narrow defile, leading
through a range of granite mountains. " The road through this mount-
ain pass," says Clapperton, " was grand and imposing, sometimes rising
almost perpendicularly, and then descending into deep dells. In every
cleft of the hills, wherever there appeared the least soil, were cottages,
surrounded by small plantations of millet, yams, or plantains, giving a
beautiful variety to the rude scenery. The road continued rising, hill
above hill, for at least two miles, until our arrival at the large and populous
town of Chaki, situated on the top of the verj- highest hill. On every
hand, on the hills, on the rocks, and crowding on the road, the inhabit-
ants were assembled in thousands ; t e women welcoming us with hold-
ing up their hands and chanting choral songs, and the men with the
usual salutations and every demonstration of joy."

Here they were kindly received by a caboceer with two thousand
■wives, and continued their journey next day. The country beyond this
was populous and well cultivated ; and they were everywhere hospita-
bly treated. On the 2 2d they reached the large town of Tshow, where
a messenger from the King of Yoriba was in waiting, to conduct them
to Katunga. The caboceer visited them, and after having shaken hands
with them, rubbed his face and body, in order that he might impait the
blessing of a white man's touch to all parts of his frame. The next day,
at noon, from the top of a high ridge, they saw the city of Katunga, or
Eyeo. " Before us lay a finely-cultivated valley, extending as far as the
eye could reach to the westward ; the city lying, as it were, below us,
surrounded and studded with green shady trees, forming a belt around
the base of a rocky mountain, composed of granite, of about three miles
in length, forming as beautiful a view as I ever saw."

On entering the city, a messenger met the travelers, stating that the
king wanted to see them. Clapperton gives the following description
of their reception : " A band of music accompanied us and the escort,
with an immense multitude of men, women, and children. As there
was much open and cultivated ground, the dust they caused almost suf-
focated us, though tho escort tried all gentle means to keep them off.
At last, after riding full five miles, we came to the place where the king
was sitting under the verandah of his house, marked by two red and
blue cloth umbrellas, supported by largo poles held by slaves, with tho
staft* resting upon the ground. After we got as far as the umbrellas in
front, the space was all clear before tho king, and for about twenty yards
on each side. Wo walked up to the verandah with our hats on, until
we came into the siiade, when wo took off our hats, made a bow, and

608 OLAPPERTON'S SECOND JOURNEY TO SACZATOO.

shook Lands : he lifting up our hands three times, repeating, ^Ako^ ctkof*
(how do you do ?) the women behind him standing up and cheering us,
calling out, ' Oh, oh, oh !' (hurrah !) and the men on the outside joining.
It was impossible to count the number of his ladies, they were so densely
packed and so very numerous. If I might judge by their smiles, they
seemed as glad to see us as their master. The king was dressed in a
large white shirt, with a blue one under ; around his neck some three
strings of large blue cut-glass beads, and on his head the imitation of a
European crown of blue cotton covered over pasteboard, made appar-
ently by some European, and sent up to him from the coast."

The city of Eyeo (Eatunga, in the language of Houssa), is situated
in latitude eight degrees fifty-nine minutes north, longitude six degrees
twelve minutes east. It is built on the sloping side and around the base
of a small range of granite hills, which, as it were, form the citadel of
the town : they are composed of stupendous blocks of gray granite of
the softest kind, some of which are seen hanging from the summits, in
the most frightful manner, as if the least touch would send them do\i'n
into the valley beneath. A belt of thick wood runs around the walls,
which are built of clay, about twenty feet high, and surrounded by a
dry ditch. There are ten gates in the walls, which are fifteen miles
in circumference, of an oval shape, about four miles in diameter one way
and six miles the other, the south end leaning against the rocky hills,
and forming an inaccessible barrier in that quarter. The king's houses
and those of his women occupy about a square mile, and are on the south
side of the hills, having two large parks, one in front and another facing
the north.

Clapperton was detained at Katunga durmg the whole month of
February, the king refusing to allow him to proceed, under one pretext
or another. He kept him well supplied with provisions, but as the
traveler was obliged to make frequent presents to him, his sons, and the
caboceers or head men of the city, these gifts were well paid for. Cap-
tain Clapperton applied for permission to visit Rakka, on the Niger, and
to pass onward to the kingdom of Nyfife, lying cast of Yoriba, which
was refused, on the ground that the road was not safe. Finally, after
fixing a day for Clapperton''s departure five or six times, and as often
postponing it, he sent word to him, on the 6th of March, that a messen-
ger was about to start for the city of Kiama, and would accompany and
give him in charge to the Sultan Yarro, who would forward him to the
kingdom of Yaouri. Clapperton, therefore, immediately arranged his
baggage and started, leaving Mr. Houtson, who intended returning to
Badagry.*

On the way to Eiama Lander became so ill that he could not travel

without being held on the horse. Thay reached that city on the 13th,

and rode immediately to the house of Sultan Yarro, whom they found

sitting at the door of his house. He was a stout, good-looking man, past

* Mr. Houtson reached Badagiy in safetj, but died soon afterward.

SAOKATOO. I

ip and cheering us, i
;he outside joining, j
ley were so densely j
J their smiles, they 1
ig was dressed in a |
[lis neck some three i
a the imitation of a |
jboard, made appar- j
le coast." I

HouBsa), is situated
wgitudc six degrees |
and around the base
., form the citadel of
■A of gray granite of
from the summits, in
)uld send them down
ins around the walls,
and surrounded by a
dich are fifteen miles
J in diameter one way
tainst the rocky hUls,
,r. The king's houses
, and are on the south
mt and another facing

the whole month of j
;ed, under one pretext i
provisions, hut as the

him, his sons, and the ,
ro weU paid for. Cap- !

cka, on the Niger, and
past of Yoriba, which
lot safe. Finally, after
[six times, and as often

March, that amessen-

would accompany and

luld forward him to the

lediately arranged his
uitended returning to

[hat he could not travel
1 that city on the 13th,
Parro, whom they found
] good-looking man, past

Id sooQ afterward.

JOURNEY TO BOUSSA.

509

the middle age, dressed in a white tobe or large shirt, with a red Moor-
ish cap on his head. He received Clapperton kindly, and gave him a
very comfortable house. After the heat of the day was over Yarro came
to visit him, mounted on a beautiful red roan, attended by a number of
armed men on horseback and on foot, and six young female slaves, car-
rying spears. He promised to send the travelers to Wawa, whence they
would bo forwarded to Boussa on the Niger. The town of Kinraa, ac-
cording to Clapperton's estimate, contains thirty thousand inhabitants,
who are looked upon as the greatest thieves and robbers in Africa. The
traveler, however, was fortunate ; he escaped being plundered, and after
a stay of five days, was allowed to proceed, in company with a caravan
bound for Kano, in Houssa.

His road now led through a thickly wooded country, broken by pic-
turesque rocky ranges. In passing through one of the villages, a Borgoo
hunter came in from the chase. " He had a leopard's skin over his
shoulder, a light spear in his hand, and his bow and arrows slung at his
back. He was followed by three cveam-colorod dogs, a breed as if be-
tween the grayhound and the cur ; they were adorned with round col-
lars of different colored leather. The hunter and his dogs marched
through the village as independently as I ever saw a man, without tak-

AraiOAN rOREST.

ing the least notice of us, or even looking at us." The road continued
through tropical woods of the most luxuriant foliage. They were shaded
fi-om the heat of the sun, which was intense at noonday, and were
cheered by their approach to the Niger, the proximity of which was
announced by its numerous tributaries.

510 clappp:rton's second journey to sackatoo.

On tho 21st, Clappcrton reached the large town of Wawa, where ho
was intliffcrently received by the governor, Avho wrapped up liis hand in
his sleeve, for fear the touch of a white man would kill him. Soon after
his arrival lie was visited by an Arab M'idow named Zuma, who desired
to have a white husband. She was said to be tho richest person in the
town, having tho best house and a thousand slaves. " She showed a
great regard for my servant Richard, who is younger and better looking
than I am," says Captain Clapperton ; " but she had passed her twentieth
year, was fat, and a perfect Turkish beauty, just like a walking water-
butt. All her arts were unavailing on Richard ; she could not induce
hitn to visit her at her house, though ho had my permission." In spite
of these rebutfs, the widow furnished the traveler with abundance of
cooked provisions every day. She offered Clapperton's servant Pascoo
a ^vife if he could persuade his master to marry her. Clapperton visited
her one day, and received an estimate of all her wealth ; she exhibited
to him her gold bracelets, her coral beads, silver rings and other trinkets,
and her apartments, splendidly adorned with pewter dishes and brass
pans. She then proposed to send for a priest and have the marriage
ceremony performed — whereupon the captain speedily retreated.

After spending nine days at Wawa, a messenger of the Sultan of
Boussa arrived, to conduct the travelers through his dominions. The
governor of Wawa promised to send all the baggage to the town of
Koolfu, beyond the Niger, on the direct road to Kano, and Clapperton
therefore, leaving Lander to take charge of it, rode on to Boussa. The
same afternoon he reached a branch of the Niger, called the Menai. It
was not more than twenty yards across, but twelve feet deep. After
being ferried over, an hour's ride brought him to the town of Boussa.
lie was much surprised, after entering the gate, to see only clusters of
huts here and there, and no regular town, as he had been led to expect.
He proceeded at once to visit the sultan, whom he found sitting 1,1. ir
the verandah of one of his huts, with his principal wife beside him. The
sultan received him very kindly, and said that the Sultan of Yaouri had
kept seven boats waiting several days, to take him up the river. Clap-
perton informed him that on account of the war between Yaouri and
Boussa, he intended taking the route of Koolfu and Nyiio, on his way
to Bornou. The sultan was a handsome man of about twenty-five years
of age, five feet ten inches in height, with a lofty forehead, Roman nose,
good teeth, and a short chin covered with a beard two inches long.

Clapperton's presents the next day procured him a still more favora-
ble reception, and he was informed that he would be allowed to coji-
tinue his journey on the morrow. " I next inquired of him," says the
traveler, " after some white men who were lost in the river near Boussa
twenty years ago. He seemed rather uneasy at this question, and I
observed that he stammered in his speech. He assured me that he had
nothing belonging to them ; that he was a little boy when the event
happened. I said, I wanted nothing but the books and papers, and to

"~l

SACKATOO.

of Wawa, where ho
ippcd up his hanil in
iill hira. Soon after
. Zuma, who desired
•ichest person in the
'cs. " She showed a
■r and better looking
passed her twentieth
like a walking water- i
ihc could not induce
jrmission." In spite I

with abundance of |
ton's servant Pascoo j
, Clapperton visited
realth ; she exhibited
gs and other trinkets,
tor dishes and brass
d have the marriage
liily retreated,
ger of the Sultan of

his dominions. The
rgage to the town of
Kano, and Clapperton
ie on to Boussa. The

called the Menai. It
}lve feet deep. After
> the town of ]5oussa.
to see only clusters of
ad been led to expect,
le found sitting .I'l r
wife beside hira. The
) Sultan of Yaouri had
m up the river. Clap-
r betwetsii Yaotiri and
md Nyffe, on his way
ibout twenty-five years
forehead, Roman nose,
1 two inches long,
dim a still more favora-
ild be allowed to con-
uired of him," says the
i the river near Boussa
it this question, and I
assured me that he had
e boy when the event
oks and papers, and to

THE PLACE OP PARK'S DEATH. ^jj

learn from him a correct account of the manner of their d,.ath ; and that
with Ins pernussion, I would go and visit the spot where they were lost'
He saul no, I must not go; it was a verj- bad place. Ilavincr heard
that part ot the boat still remained, I asked him if it was «o 'ire re
plied that such a report was untrue; that she did remain on the rock,
or some time after, but had gone to pieces and floated down the river
?,"5 ^S^; Z;^"' 'f^^ ^'""l^l give me the books and papers, it would bo
the greatest favor he could possibly confer upon me. Ho again assun-d
Zn^t "°*'""S/f™7^^1 7th him ; every thing of that kind had gone

i?o In 1 1 i' ''"'"f '"'" ' ^'"* *^'^* •^'•'"y ^^«'-« "«^v in existence

he would procure them and give them to me. I then asked him if l,e

w-ould aUow mo to inquire of the old peoj.lo in the toM-n the particulars
ot the affair, as some of them must have seen it. He appeared very un-
easy, gave mo no answer, and I did not press him further "

Clapperton was afterward informed by the sultan that the late imam
or priest, wlio was a Fehitah, had had possession of all of Park's books
■and papers, but that he had fled from Boussa some time ],ef;>re Tho
inhabitants appeared uneasy and embarrassed whenever he asked for in-
formation but they pointed out the place where tlio boat struck and
he imfortunate travelers perished. "Even this," Clapperton remarks
was done with caution, and as if by stealth ; though, in every thing un!
connected with that afiair, they were most ready to give me what in-
formation I asked, and never in my Ufe have I been treated with more
hospitahty and kindness. The place pointed out to me is in the eastern
eha,.nel, the nver being divided into three branches at this place, not
one of which is more than a good pistol-shot across. A low, flat island
ot about a quarter of a mile in breadth, lies between the town of Boussa
ana the fiUal spot. The bank is not particularly high at present, bTng I
only about ten feet above the level of this branch, which here break! '•
over a gray slate-rock, extending quite across to the eastern shore " '

Clapperton left Houssa on the 2d of April, and proceeded down the i
nver t . > days' journey to Comie, or the king's ferry, where the caravans ,
to and from Houssa cross the Niger. His baggage, much to his sur- '
prise, had not amved from Wawa, and he found, on inquiry, that it had I
been detamed by the orders of the persevering widow Zuma. He im '
mediately returned to Wawa, and Lander arrived there at the same
moment from Boussa, whither he had gone to seek his master and ac-
quaint him with the detention of his property. The sultan had treated
Lander with great kindness, and sent two armed men back with him to
desire the governor of Wawa to allow the baggage to leave—" a con-
vmcing proof," says Clapperton, "that the minds of men here must bt>
much changed for the better since the days of Park and Martyn." But
they were not yet done with the widow. The governor would not give
up the baggage until she arrived, as she was then absent. She made
her entry m state the next day, astride of a fine horse, with a drummer
before her, and a train of bowmen and spearmen behind. She wore red

[it amM

512 CLAPPBRTON-S SECOND JOURNKT TO SACKATOO.

silk trowsors and red morocco boots, with a white turban upon her
hll and over her Bhoulders a mantlo of silk and gold "Had shebeen
Bomewhat younger and less corpulent," says her v^tim "there m.ght
have been grea? temptations to head her party, for she has certainly
bein a ver? handsome woman." She was immediately B«-™«-d be-
fore the governor, who gave her a lecture on disobedience and vani y^
and finalfy ended by giv^g up Clapperton's baggage, and allowmg hmi

"Xtrg'th'e Niger, Clapperton proceeded toward Kano
through the comitry of Nyffe, and on the 12th arrived at a town called
Sbf on the river Mayarrow, where ho was obliged to remain several
I:^ ' While here, a messenger came to him from the Sf- o^f^";
Sncr a present of a camel. Ho stated that the sultan had m his
uoTsfsfon two large printed books which had belonged to the wluto
rrX were J in'ihe boat at Boussa, and had been offered a hun^
dred and seventy-five pieces of gold for them. Clapperton was obliged
to make a journey of ?wo or three days, to the camp of the kmg of
Nyffe in order to obtain permission to proceed farther He reached
Koolfu the capital of the country, on the 2d of May. This is a place
fftwel'vc or fifteen thousand inhabitants, situated on the river Mayarrow.
?t s strounded by a clay wall about twenty foot high, with four gates.
He here h"rd theW of Park's death related in the same manner a,
at Boussa, and there seems no reason to doubt its correctness The only
uncertain point is, whether the travelers were shot ^7 tl^« "f "«%,^^
were d owned in attempting to escape. Soon after their death the
loimtry was visited by i pestilence, which the superstition of the na-
11^8 attiibuted to that occurrence, and they aU seemed dismclined to
converge o„re ^ject. Clapperton remarks : " I was often puzzled to
think after the kiidness I had received at Boussa, what could have
caused Ich a change in the minds of these people, in the course of
wenty years%ni of their different treatment of two European trave ers.
I wL even disposed at times to flatter myself that there was some lung
LTe that belonged to nobody else, to make them treat me and my

dcodIc with so much kindness." , , v

^ After having been detained six weeks at Koolfu, partly by his own
and Lander's sifkness, and partly by the diMtyofpr^cunng an escort
to Kano, Clapperton set out for the latter place on the 19th of June
His progress was slow and toilsome, the rainy season havmg set in He
reached the city of Zaria on the loth of July. This is a place of more
than fifty thousand inhabitants, situated on a plain near a long chain
of hills. Its apFarance is made very picturesque by the long avenues
of trees, resembling poplars, which border the roads leading to it This
wa« within the territory of Houssa, and Clapperton now congratulated
himself that all his difficulties were over. The country around Zaiia
reminded him of England in April, and grew more pleasant as he ap-
proached Kano. " The land, everywhere the eye turned, looked beau-

t .1.1. i.i.iifc I Mm

8ACKAT00.

to turban upon her
Id. "Had she been
ctim, " there might
or she has certainly
ately summoned be-
bedionce and vanity,
re, and allowing him

eded toward Kano
ivcd at a town called
ed to remain several
the Sultan of Yaouri,
tho sultan had in his
elonged to the wliite
been offered a hun-
lapperton was obliged
camp of the king of
further. Ho reached
Muy. This is a place
[)n the river Mayarrow.
high, with four gates.
n tho same manner as
correctness. The only
shot by the natives, or
after their death tho
superstition of the na-
scemed disinclined to
' I was often puzzled to
jussa, what could have
cople, in the course of
two European travelers,
at there was sometliing
lem treat mo and my

,olfu, partly by his own
y of procuring an escort
on tho 19th of June,
jason having set in. Ho
This is a place of more
plain near a long chain
lue by the long avenues
oadsleadingtoit. This
jrton now congratulated
le country around Zavia
more pleasant as he ap-
eye turned, looked beau-

t '

*'■

^i^^m-i.^'i

F 'Mot''.', *■»' M

■-'irz^m

,v^

,\t*l

*.v

t'^crr^i^

!0^

■i-i

m:s

iVf

ph y'^

ARRIVAL AT UKLLO'S CAMP.

513

tiful ; tho grain Vfoa jii»t Iiigh unoti^li to wuvo with the wind ; littJM
towns and villnj»c8 were nunierou.4 ; ti.i; tnu's full of foliage, few being
lotl except such as wero fit for use, oh tho butter-trco and tho tanmr
ind ; herds of tine uattlo wero seen grazing on tho fallow-ground ; and
horses an<l nmres wero tethored in thu Hinall Hpuces letl between tho
cultivated fields."

On tho evening of July 20th, they entered Kano, and went to tho
house of his former agent, Hat Salah. Tho latter was in low Hi>irits on
aecount of the war betwvcn Iloussa and Bomou, which had shut thcni
out, for Home time, from all communication with Fczzan or Tripoli.
Clapiterton only remained four days in Kano, and then left for tho camp
of Sultan liello, with tho ])rcscnts lie had brought, leaving Lander bo-
hind him, to take charge of those intended for the Shekh of IJornou.
It was now the Iieight of tho rainy season ; severe storms occurred
nearly every day ; the rivers wero swollen ; tho marshes almost impass-
able, and he made but slow progress. On tlio way to tho camp ho met
the vizier, whom he had already known in Sackatoo, and Avho received
him in a very friendly manner. Soon after this ono of his horses waa
lost, and with it one of his journals, so that there is a hiatus of moro
than two months in his narrative — an omission wLich docs not appear
to have been replaced afterward.

Wo are, therefore, ignorant of tho causes which delayed him on his
way to Bollo's camp, which ho did not reach until tho 15th of October.
" Tho sultan's reception of me," he says, " was most kind and gratifying.
He asked after the health of the King of England, and if wo wero still
at peace, and how I had found all my friends. Ho was surprised when
I said I had not seen them, and that I had remained only four months
in England. Ho said he had not received cither of my letters, the one
from Bornou, or that wliich had been sent by way of Ghadames from
Tripoli. He asked me if I had not experienced a great many difficulties
in getting through Yoriba ; said ho had heard of me when I was at
Katunga, and had sent a messenger to that place to assist me in get-
ting tlirough, as well as another to Koolfu — but neither of whom, as I
told him, had I seen."

Clapperton accompanied the sultan in an attack upon the town of
Coonie, in which the Felatah troops were repulsed, and then directed
his course toward Sackatoo, where he arrived on the 20th of October,
He was immediately visited by the Arabs of the place, who first paid
him a great many compliments, and then begged for presents. He re-
mained in Sackatoo for several months, during which time he made sev-
eral excursions into the country around, mostly at the command of the
sultan, who frequently had communications to make to him. He was
very desirous of proceeding to Bornou, but as the two countries were at
war, Bello refused his permission. He promised, however, to send him
to Europe, through the country of the Tuaricks, to Fezzan.

On the 22d of December, he was surprised by the arrival of Richard

614 CLAPPBRTON'S SECOND JOUBNEY TO SACKATOO.

Lander from Kano, with tho remainder of the baggage, including the
presents for the Shekh of Bornou. Lander had been brought to Sacka-
too by tho order of the sultan, who used the fact of the war with Bornou
as a pretext to seixe upon the presents intended for the shekh. Lander
had suifered a great deal of fatigue and anxiety on account of the knavery
of the ser/ant Pascoe, who had three times deserted, after breaking open
some of Captain Clapperton's trunks, and stealing the contents. On the
first and second of these occasions, Lauder had himself followed him for
several days, and overtaken him. Clapperton was now informed by the
sultan that if ho wished to go home, he must go by way of Fezzan or
Timbuctoo, but should not bo allowed to visit Bornou. Ho also de-
manded the letter to the shekh of the latter country, which Clapperton
refused to give up. This treachery on the part of the Sultan Bello ap-
pears to have depressed Clapperton profoundly, and when the former
again sent to him, demanding his stores of powder and ammunition, un-
der the pretext that they were intended for the Shekh of Bornou, his
customaiy prudence entirely deserted him. He reproached tho vizier
and his brother with the baseness and falsehood of this proceeding ; harsh
epithets were used on both sides, and a breach was made between the
traveler and the rulers of Houssa, which was never afterward healed.

Toward the close of February, 1827, news came to Sackatoo of the
defeat of the Shekh of Bornou, and his retreat to Kouka, with the loss
of all his baggage, camels, and two hundred and nme horses. During
the winter, Captain Clapperton's journal records little except some excur-
sions around Sackatoo, and the difficulty he had in procuring the skins
and skeletons of some wild hogs. He docs not appear to have made any
preparations for his return to Europe. His journal terminates abruptly
on the 11th of March, after which we must have recourse to the narra-
tive of Richard Lander, for the particulars of his last illness and drath.

Lander relates that hia master was taken ill on the 12th of March,
with dysentery. As it was the fast of Ramadan, none of the servants
would render the least assistance, and he was obliged to wash, cook,
watch at night, and fan the invalid. The weather was insufferably hot,
the thermometer being 107° in the shade. Lander carried him in his arms
every day to a shady place on the outside of the hut, as ho was too weak
even to raise himself on his couch. The former &ncied that he had been
poisoned by some of the Arabs or Tuaricks, in drinking camel's milk ;
but Clapperton replied, " No, my dear boy, no such thing has been done,
I assure you. Do you remember that when on a shooting excursion in
the early part of February, after walking the whole of the day, exposed
to '"he scorching rays of the sun, I was fatigued, and lay down under the
bi anches of a tree for some time ? The earth was soft and wet, and from
that hour to the present, I have not been free from cold ; this has brought
on my present disorder, from which, I believe, I shall never recover."

" For twenty days," says Lander, " my poor master remained in a
low and distressed state. He told me he felt no pain ; but this was

,^^>.^,..»^,,■>.»rf■.la^►;iy^^w,-l^F^^;g^^!a.ala^..v/. ^'■»--^'^»::.taiSR?^

TO SACKATOO.

aggagc, including the
een brought to Sacka-
»f the war with Bornou
)r the Bhekh. Lander
account of the knavery
sd, after breaking open
; the contents. On the
irasclf followed him for
i8 now informed by the
o by way of Fezzan or
Bornou. He also de-
intry, which Clapperton
of the Sultan Bello ap-
y, and when the former
ler and ammunition, un-
ie Shekh of Bornou, his
e reproached the viader
)f this proceeding ; harsh
was made between the
ver afterward healed.
came to Sackatoo of the
b to Kouka, with the loss
ad nine horses. During
J little except some excur-
id in procuring the skins
appear to have made any
imal termmates abruptly
,ve recourse to the narra-
is last illness and df ath.
ill on the 12th of March,
ian, none of the servants
3 obUged to wash, cook,
ther was insufferably hot,
der carried him in his arms
le hut, as he was too weak

r fancied that he had been
in drinking camel's milk ;
, such thing has been done,
on a shooting excursion in
whole of the day, exposed
d, and lay down under the
was soft and wet, and from
rom cold ; this has brought
3, 1 shall never recover."
oor master remained m a
felt no pain; but this was

HIS LAST ILLNESS.

515

spoken only to comfort mc, for lio s.aw I wast dispirited. His sufferings
must have been acute. During thi' tinio he was gradually, but percept-
ibly, declining ; his body, from being r()bust and vigorous, became
weak and emaciated, and indeed was little better than a skeleton. I
wOvS the only person, with one exception, he saw in his sickness. Ab-
derachman, an Arab from Fezzan, came to him one day, and wished to
pray with him, after the manner of his countrymen, but was desired to
leave the apartment instantly. I read to him daily some portions of the
New Testament, and the ninety-fifth Psalm, which lie was never weary
of listening to, and on Sundays added the church service, to which he
invariably paid the profoundest attention. The constant agitation of
mind and exertions of body I had myself undergone for so long a time,
never having in a single instance slept out of my clothes, weakened me
exceedingly, and a fever came on not long before my master's death,
which hung upon me for fifteen days, and ultimately brought me to the
very verge of the grave.

" On the Ist of April, ho became considerably worse, and though
evidently in want of repose, his sleep became more and more disturbed.
On the 9th, Maddie, a native of Bornou, whom master had retained in
liis service, brought him about twelve ounces of green bark from the
butter-tree, and said it would do him much good. Notwithstanding all
my remonstrances, master immediately ordered a decoction of it to be
l)repared, observing, ' No man will injure mc.' Accordingly Maddie
himself boiled two basins-full, the whole of which he drank in less than
an hour. Next morning he was much altered for the worse, and regret-
ted his not having followed my advice. About twelve o'clock of the
same day, he said, ' Richard, I shall shortly be no more ; I feel myself
dying.' Almost choked with griefj I replied, ' God forbid, ray dear
master : you will live many years yet.' ' Don't be so much affected, my
dear boy, I entreat you,' said he :' it is the will of the Almighty ; it can
not be helped. Take care of my journal and papers after my death ;
and when you arrive in London, go immediately to my agents, send for
my uncle, who will accompany you to the Colonial Office, and let him
see you deposit them safely into the hands of the secretary. After I am
buried, apply to Bello, and borrow money to purchase camels and pro-
visions for your journey over the desert, and go in the train of the Arab
merchants to Fezzan. * * * Remark what towns or villages you
pass through ; pay attention to whatever the chiefs may say to you, and
put it on paper. The little money I have, and all ray clothes, I leave
you : sell the latter, and put what you may receive for them into your
pocket ; and if, on your joiirney, you should be obliged to expend it,
government will repay you on your return.' I said, as well as my agita-
tion would permit me, ' If it be the will of God to take you, you may
rely on my faithful performing, as far as I am able, all that you have
desired ; but I trust the Almighty will spare you, and you will yet live
to see your country.' ' I thought I should at one time, Richard,' con-

616 CLAPPBRTON'S SECOND JOURNEY TO SACKATOO.

tinned he, 'but aU is now over; I shall not bo long for this worhl ; but
God^ w^ be done.' He then took my hand betwixt his, and loobng
me fulUn the face, while a tear stood glistening m his eye, said, m a
W but deeply affecting tone, 'My dear Richard, if you had not been
whh me I should havfdied long ago; I can only thank yon with my
k est breath, for your kindness and attachment to me, and if I could
have lived return with you, you should have been placed beyond the
reach of Vant ; but God will reward you.' This conver^tion occupied
nearly wo ho'urs, in the course of which my master famted severa
Zes and was distressed beyond measure. The same evenmg he fell
nToa l^nZ, from which he awoke in much perturbat on, and said he
had hearTw h much distinctness the tolUng of an English funera bell :
I entreated him to be composed, and observed that sick people fre-
quently Ley they hear and see things which can possibly have no ex-

istence. He made no reply. ., ,

" Ibout six O'clock on the morning of the 11th, on askmg how ho
did my master answered he was much better, and requested me to
Ta^rhim. On the morning of the 13th, however being awake, I was
mulh al^ed by a peculiar rattling noise, proceeding from my ma.ter'8
Toat and his breathing was loud and difficult ; at the same mstant he
caled out 'Richard!' iS a low and hurried tone. I was immediately
at Ws Zl and was astonished at seeing him sitting upright in his bed,
and star^^^^^^^ around. I held him in my arms and placing h^
head genUy on mjleft shoulder, gazed a moment on his pale and altered
fer«res: some indistinct expressions quivered on his lips ; ho strove but
i^effectuallv to give them utterance, and expired without a struggle or
Z^TwienhnnA my poor master so very ill, I called out with aU
mv Bt^enrth ' O God, my master is dying !' which brought Pascoe and
Sd y m°to 'ohe apai-tikent. Shortly after the breath had left his body,
ideslfed Pascoe to fetch some water, with which I washed the corpse.
I then got Pascoe and Mudey to assist mo m taking it outside of the
hutlaid^it on a clean mat, and wrapped it in a sheet and blanket
Leaving it in this state two hours, I put a large clean rnat over he
whole and sent a messenger to Sultan Bello, to acquamt him of the
^oinJt nt and ask hi! permission to bury the body after the man-
Tr of my own country, and also to know in what particular f^ace hi
remains were to be interred. Tho messenger soon f t«™«djvith the
la's consent to the former part of my request ; and about 12 o'clock
at noon of the same day a person came into my ^"t';^'':^™/--^,^^
four slaves, sent by Bello to dig the grave. I was desired to follow
them with the coise. Accordingly I saddled f^y «Tt\""^PT^
the body on its back, and throwing a union-jack over it, I bade thena
proceed. Traveling at a slow pace, we halted at Jungavie a smaU
village, buUt on a rising ground, about five miles to the south-east of
sStoo. The body wL then taken from the camel's back, and placed
in a shed, whUe the slaves were digging the grave ; which bemg qmckiy

^j^jjy::.--: . ^ ii^iti^iji^v^'ij.zJiiii^.ilf^^^^^^-' ■

TO SACKATOO.

g for this world ; but
wixt his, and looking
in his eye, said, in a
, if you had not been
ly thank yon, with my
to me, and if I could
Ben placed beyond the
conversation occupied
master fainted several
! same evening he fell
i-turbation, and said he
n English funeral bell :
I that sick people fre-
a possibly have no ex-

[1th, on asking how he
, and requested mo to
rer, being awake, I was
eding from my master's
; at the same instant he
(ne. I was immediately
tting upright in his bed,
f arms, and placing his
it on his pale and altered
1 his lips ; he strove, but
ed without a struggle or
ill, I called out with all
lich brought Pascoe and
breath had left his body,
eh I washed the corpse,
taking it outside of the
in a sheet and blanket,
rge clean mat over the
, to acquaint him of the
r the body after the man-
vhat particular place his

Boon returned with the
8t ; and about 12 o'clock
my hut, accompanied by

I was desired to follow
d my camel, and putting
jack over it, I bade them
ed at Jungavie, a small
miles to the south-east of
I camel's back, and placed
ave ; which being quickly

HIS BURIAL.

617

done, it was conveyed close to it. I then opened a prayer-book, and,
amid showers of tears, read the funeral service over the remains of my
valued master. Not a single person listened to this peculiarly distress-
ing ceremony, the slaves being at some distance, quarreling and making
a most indecent noise the whole of the time it lasted. This being done,
the union-jack was taken off, and the body was slowly lowered into the
earth, and I Avept bitterly as I gazed for the last time upon all that
remained of my generous r id intrepid master. The pit was speedily
filled, and I returned to the village about thirty yards to the east of
the grave, and giving the most respectable inhabitants, both male and
female, a few trifling presents, entreated them to let no one disturb its
sacred contents. I also gave them two thousand cowries to build a
house, four feet high, over the spot, which they promised to do. I then
returned, disconsolate and oppressed, to my solitary habitation, and
leaning my head on my hand, could not help being deeply affected Avith
my lonesome and dangerous situation ; a hundred and fifteen days'
journey from the sea-coast, surrounded by a selfish and cruel race of
strangers, my only friend and protector moldering in his grave, and
myself suffering dreadfully from fever. I felt, indeed, as if I stood
alone in the world, and earnestly wished I had been laid by the side of
my dear master : all the trying evils I had endured never affected me
half so much as the bitter reflections of that distressing period."*

* Captain Hugh Clapperton was born in Dumfriesshire, Scotland, in the year 1788, and
consequently was thirty-nine years old at the time of his death, lie received rery little
education, except in trigonometry and navigation, and was apprenticed on board a mer-
chant vessel, at the age of thirteen. Having bnen impressed by the frigate Renommee,
at Gibraltar, in 1806, he was, through the influence of an uncle, who was captain of the
marines, appointed midshipman. Ho afterward made a voyage to India in the frigate
Chrinde, and in 1814 was sent to Bermuda and Halifax, and then to Upper Canada. He
was distinguished aa an excellent swordsman, a good vocalist, an admirable story-teller,
a frank, whole-souled companion, and a faithful friend. " In the winter of 1815," says
his biographer, " he was placed in command of a blockhouse on Lake Ontario. He had
only one small gun for its defense ; ho was attacked by an American schooner ; the
blockhouse was soon demolished by the superiority of the enemy's fire, and ho found that
himself and the party must cither become prisoners of war, or form tho resolution of
crossing Lake Ontario on the ice, a journey of forty miles, to York (Toronto), the nearest
British depot. Notwithstanding the difficulty and danger attending a journey of such
length over the ice in tho depth of winter, the alfernativo was soon adopted and the
party set out to cross the lake, but had not gone more than ten or twelve miles, before a
boy, one of the party, was unable to proceed from the cold. The sailors all declared that
they were unable to carry him, as they were so benumbed with the cold, and had scorcely
strength suffirient to support themselves. Clapperton's generous nature could not bear
the idea of a fellow-creature being left to perish under such appalling circumstances, for
a dreodful snow-storm had commenced. He therefore took the boy upon his back, hold-
ing him with his left hand, and supporting himself from slipping with a staff in his right
In this manner be continued to go forward for eight or nine miles, when he perceived that
the boy relaxed his hold, and on examining the cause, found that he was in a dying state
fh)m the cold, and soon after expired. Tho suflferings of the whole party were great be-
fore they reached York ; the stockings and shoos completely worn off their feet, and

SAOKATOO.

518

CLAPPEBTON'S SBOOND JOURNEY TO

RETURN JOURNEY OF RICHARD LANDER.

After the death of Ins -ter, U^h d L^^^^^^^^^^^^
days. The Arabs in the city -f ^^^- J^^^^ P,,^ ,h,, he was
dole with and comfort '^fl7^\^Z^^^,,,,,ov.U.y. he frequently
obliged to keep a tub of ^^tei at bis s , ^^ ^^^^^.

plunged his hands and arms. ^J^^ ^^^^^fth of April, and the next
!ry, his health sudden y >-P-;f ^.^^^^^^^^^^^ Jrehed the boxes,

day he was able to sit up The ^ -^ J^™ ^„^ ,^,,, . but to his
^vhich he had been ^"/«''7\^'7 ' **" ' J" enough to take him back to
rprise, found that ^^^ ^^^^X^ZL^L person the watches of
the sea-coast. 'Die I'^tter con ^^^anded the arms and am-

Clapperton and Pearc J^^f ^^^^''\,^^^ charged him two hun-
munition, promismg to pay tor tnem „„venty-five dollars) and

Jred and forty-five thousand cowries (about seventy
received an order on Hat Salah ^^ «^«;"J- ^^^ B^n Gumso, who

By making some presents to an «ld Arab name ^^^^^,^,^

had considerable influence -- ^^uk^vn B|^^^^^^^^^

in obtaining permission to ^«Pf ^^^h; count^ of the Tuaricks to

that he should go from Kano throng the counti y ^^ ^^^^^^

Fezzan, while Lander had made up his "^"^^^^^^^^^^^ ^ intention

over the road he had already ^^'^^f^f • .^^^^^^^^^^ was persuaded

to keep Pascoe, for the piirpose of f «amng las f ^^ ^^ Zander,

to let him go as far as Kano, as interpreter * >"/ ^^^ J^ ,„a rc-
" that the sultan had nothing more to say, 1 bowea p
tired. I never saw him agai"" <.„.r,^^oo on the 4th of May, but

breakingupof the lake fleet and w« put up^nha^P^y^^^ ^^ ^^.^^^^_ ^^

atives in Scotland until ^^^O, when Uappemng to^^^^^ ^,

made application to join the '»"«'°° *^„ ^^f;„;fSe foregoing narrative,
remainder of his history is contamed ''»-*^^^ .^"^^^^^^ he had great breadth of

Captain Clapperton was about five feet ^^^^^^^ '~ '''Jrt tonately strong ; he was a
chest and expansion of sljouldors, and was l^l^^^Z^Z^^nAnJ sni human-
handsome, athletic, powerful man. y^'.^^f. ""^ J^^^^^^^^ reliance on the native

violence.

. -<>tfnW»«:-.>^ f-w-

r TO SACKATOO.

■D LANDER.

er was very ill for many
, and pretended to con-
a so warm that he was
nto which he frequently
ven up all hope of recov-
h of April, and the next
and searched the boxes,
aid and silver ; but to his
)ugh to take him back to
8 person the watches of
aanded the arms and am-
er charged him two hun-
seventy-five dollars) and

) named Ben Gumso, who
Lander finally succeeded
latoo. The sultan insisted
ountry of the Tuaricks to
o return by way of Boussa,
, also declared his intention
ds guns, but was persuaded
« Finding," says Lander,
[ bowed profoundly and re-

.too on the 4th of May, but
shing of thirst. Sitting un-
e hundreds of Felatahs and
,p of water, but they merely

ihraent, having ha-i nothing during
ction of Clappertoii'a left hand, m
•ts of the frost, tho first joint of hui

hen he returned to England, on the
,ay Ho then resided with hia rel-
meet Dr. Oudney at Edinburg, ho
I, and hia offer was accepted. The
foregoing narrative.
5he8 high; he had great breadth of
e proportionately strong ; he waa a
ssion of genial kindness and human-
iced 80 much reliance on the native
,ot be overcome by disease, and untU
death (the news of which had pre-
ler way, except through accident or

LANDER'S JOURNEY SOUTHWARD.

619

exclaimed : " He is a kaffir (infidel) ; let him die." Finally, a young
man, in spite of the remonstrances of the other natives, gave him a cala-
bash ftill, which revived himself and his horse, and enabled them to go
on. Reaching Eano on the 25th, he called upon Hat Salah, who instead
of the sultan's cowries, gave him a female slave, with some red caps and
beads. After four days' stay, he left for Funda, taking with him Pas-
coe, who was no less desirous than himself to escape from the territory
of Houssa. His course was to the southward and eastward of that which
Clapperton had pursued in going from Badagry to Kano, and had never
before been traveled by a European.

On the 18th of June he arrived at tho town of Dunrora (Darroro of
Barth), in the kingdom of Yacoba. " Our route, some parts of this
day," says he, " lay over steep and craggy precipices, of a most awful
height. On the summit of one of these places the path was barely wide
enough for a single beast to pass. The horse that carried the portman-
teaus, in which were the journal, papers, watches, etc., struck himself
against a piece of rock and was precipitated a distance of eighty yards,
the ropes which were bound around the portmanteaus arresting his fur-
ther progress. This accident occasioned us two hours' delay, but the
horse was not materially hurt. We had been traveling about half an
hour after leaving this spot, when we came to a place from which there
was an extensive and beautiful prospect of tho surrounding country, and
eight days' journey might be plainly r-oen before us. About half a day's
journey to the east stood a lofty hill, at the foot of which lay the large
city of Yacoba. Mohammed affirmed that there is a river called Shar,
or Shary, about half a mile from that place, which derives its source fi'om
Lake Tchad ; and that canoes can go from the lake to tho Niger at any
season of the year*

As he was about leaving Dunrora the next day, on his way south-
ward, messengers suddenly arrived from the King of Zegzeg (a small
country through which he had already passed), commanding him to re-
turn. In spite of all remonstrance, he was obliged to comply. " Thus,"
he remarks, with a natve and touching sincerity, " after seventeen days'
perilous traveling from Kano, with a fair prospect of reaching Funda in
twelve or thirteen more, from whence four days' sail would bring me to
tho salt water — a new country opening before me, and filled with the
most lively anticipations of solving the geographical problem which had
for so long a time puzzled Europeans, of ascertaining whether the Niger
actually joins the sea in that direction — was I obliged to abandon my
fondest and long-cherished hopes, and return to Zegzeg ; from thence to
be transported the Lord knows whither. I felt depressed and unhappy

* At Dunrora, Lander was but two or three days' journey from the Chadda, or Biuu6,
and narrowly escaped the geographical discovery made by Dr. Barth in 1861. The
Chadda, however, rises in the mountains of Adaraowa, and has no connection with the
Shary, which flows into Lake Tchad itom the south-east. The two rivers approach each
other at one point, and are often confounded by the natives. — ^B. T.

520 OLAPPBRTON'S SECOND JOUENET TO 8ACKAT00.
at this sudden turn in my affairs, and cared not much whether I lived or

died "

The rainy season had now commenced and he was detained so long
bv the rising of the rivers tha he did not reach Zegzeg until the 22d
of July. He had reason to beli !ve that the king had sent for tim merely
to gratify his curiosity, as he h.d never seen a white man He was de-
tained but two days, and recei ed a present of a bullock and a female
slave at parting. He now jud ged it prudent to take the direct route to
Boussa, as there was less risk of being arrested on the way. He reached
the Niger in safety, and on the 24th of August arrived at Wawa, just
one month after leaving Zegzeg. The natives had been very kind to
him on the road, and he experienced no serious difficulty anywhere.
In the villages people frequently applied to him to write charms, and as
his means were greatly reduced, he gave them fragments of old English
ballads, which they took with a devout belie"" in their efficacy.

The old Governor of Wawa received him with great kindness and
cordiality, and kept him until the 4th of September, detaining some
merchants who were bound for Kiama, in order that they might accom-
pany him. The road was at this time infested with robbers, but Lander
reached there safely on the 9th, and remained five days. The generous
old king supplied him with provisions in abundance. On the 25th he
reached Katunga, the capital of Yoriba. The king would not allow him
to wait on him, lest he should wet his feet, but came himself to visit
Lander, accompanied by five hundred of his wives. Lander remamed
at Katunga until the 2l8t of October, when he left for Badagry, the
king giving him a present of 4000 cowries (a little more than a dollar)
at parting. He arrived at Badagry without accident, on the 2l8t of
November, having been one month on the road.

While at this place he had a disagreeable adventure, which he thus
relates : " Three of the Portuguese slave-merchants residing at Badagry,
went to the king one day, and told him and his principal men that I was
a spy sent by the English government, and if sufiered to leave, would
soon return with an army and conquer their country. This the credu-
lous people believed, and I was treated with coldness and distrust by
the king and his subjects, who seldom came to see me. All the chief
men at length assembled at the fetish hut, and having come to a resolu-
tion that I was to drink a fetish, sent for me to appear before them. On
entering, one of the men, presenting me with a bowl in which was about
a quart of a liquid resembling water, commanded me to drink it, saying :
♦ If you come to do bad, it will kill you ; but if not, it can not hurt you.'
There being no resource, I immediately and without hesitation swallowed
the contents of the bowl, and walked hastily out of the hut, through
the armed men, to my own lodgings, took powerful medicine and plenty
of warm water, which instantly ejected the whole from my stomach, and
I felt no ill effects from the fetish. When the king and chief men found,
after five days, that the fetish had not hurt me, they became extremely

[ ■ J H T i - rtfamf - -^

ntPpWHrMM

-' -' ■»'-^~T - i i M-a>i i t " r

TO 8ACKAT00.
luch whether I lived or

16 was detained so long
h Zegzeg until the 2 2d
dad sent for tim merely
hite man. He was de-
a bullock and a female
take the direct route to
n the way. He reached
arrived at Wawa, just
had been very kind to
iU8 difficulty anywhere,
to write charms, and as
ragments of old English
their efficacy,
vith great kindness and
tember, detaining some
that they might accom-
dth robbers, but Lander
ive days. The generous
lance. On the 25th he
ing would not allow him
lit came himself to visit
ives. Lander remained
de left for Badagry, the
little more than a dollar)
iccident, on the 2l8t of

dventure, which he thus
ants residing at Badagry,
I principal men that I was
suffered to leave, would
)untry. This the credu-
coldness and distrust by
) see me. All the chief
having come to a resolu-
appear before them. On
I bowl in which was about
ed me to drink it, saying :
rnot, it can not hurt you.'
hout hesitation swallowed
' out of the hut, through
erful medicine and plenty
ole from my stomach, and
king and chief men found,
B, they became extremely

LANDER'S RETURN.

621

kind, and sent me presents of provisions, etc., daily, and frequently said
I was protected by God, and that it was out of the power of man to do
rae an injury.

" Captain Morris, of the brig -Wana, of London, hearing of my being
at Badagry, kindly came from Whydah to fetch me, and on the 20th
of January, 1828, 1 went on board, and arrived at Cape Coast on the
.'Jlst. Here I gave my faithful slaves their freedom, wiio testified tlieir
Ronow on my departure by heaping sand on their heads, and other
marks of grief peculiar to the African race.

" Sailed from Cape Coast in the Esk, sloop-of-war, February 3d and
arrxved m England on the 30th of April following."

!
1

■ U lh MW liii w'"»-i i M iii

WlBB.*^Mt,»;>iUr', M

EXPLORATIONS OF THE NIGER.

DISOOVBRIBS OF KICUARD AND JOHN LANDER.

I Aftkr returning to En-
gland, Richard Lander made
a proposition to the English
government to undertake an
exploration of the course of
the Niger, from Boussa to the
sea, and on the 31st of De-
cember, 1 829, received a letter
accepting his offer, with in-
structions as to the course he
should pursue. He was fur-
nished with all the articles
necessary for the journey, and
a sum not exceeding five hun-
dred dollars, the government
agreeing to pay one hundred
pounds to his wife for the first
year after his absence. His
brother John, who also volun-
teered for the service, was
permitted to accompany him,
but the government refused to
allow him any compensation.
The brothers embarked at
Portsmouth on the 9th of
r. ^ , , , January, 1830, and reached

Cape Coast on the 22d of February. Here they engaged old Pascoe
and his wife, and two Bornou men who were famUiar with the English,
and could speak the language of Houssa. They were detained some
time, waiting for a vessel, and did not reach Badagry nntU the 21st of
March. The kmg received them rather coldly, and so far from bemg

524

EXPLORATIONS OP THE NIGER.

crateful for the handsome prcHonts they had brought hun continua ly do

mandcd more. A portion of the inhabitants appeared o be hoH U c to

Zr und^rtiS^ing, and tried to persuade the king to demand of a.n

from Roi"«- Endless diffieulties were thrown in the.r way ; half o t h^n
Buriy of goods and money for the interior was bogged or extored In
thcm^ every effort at conciliation was met with msolence am oomplamt
'^::Z^.r. persisted in their demands for ^o.ts - ^^rse. w. I
the utmost patience and perseverance. Fmally, on the 31st, attu ic i
dlyrof infuSe vexation, tl.ey succeeded, and about ten o'clock at n.gat
oninmcnced their voyage up the Badagry Kiver,
Tt le Cth of April they arrived at Jannah where they were c-

Lander savs- " Several strangers accompany us from town to to«n in

preparing food, etc., for our W'"'^ ^ . . ^ ^^^ ^,,^ ^, three

"""Thou- ionrncy through .ho kingdom of Yoriba, by nc»rly th» .amo

^ i u \Z7ln the 13th of May approached the city of Ivatunga, to

ttr/;v T f tL^^^^^^^^^ leZ been forwarded. Richard gives

he tSow^^^^^ account of their arrival: " Hundreds of people, and pe -

hansTlwere to s^j thousands the number would not be oven-ated

pleasmg effect. Aft^^^^^^^ are numerous trees, and underneath

nWiWnPMkM

■^fc^a^afc^"^-! ^b>i>a

lER.

t him, continually do-
rcil to be hostile to
to demand of them
der to prevent them
cir way ; half of their
^ged or extorted from
wlenco and complaint ;
oats and horses, witl)
on the 3l9t, after te i
ut ten o'elock at niyat

J, where they were re-
ho treated them with
d to remain eight days,
arrived from Hadagry.
on the 14th. Richard
from town to town, in
turnpike-gates, by stat-
mdanta. Women have
)f our men from Capo
rttagc; in return for this
> useful in making fires,
afterward John Lander
critical for two or three
ered sufficiently to pro-

riba, by nearly the same
years previous, was ex-
many curious anecdotes
y encountered no serious

the city of Katunga, to
jrwarded. Richard gives
Ireds of people, and per-
would not be oven-ated,
I as they wound through
and white clothing, con-
's, produced an eminently
rs Ave came in sight of the
0U9 trees, and underneath
various groups of people
oined them, partook of a
.veling fare, and then re-
vhich the natives were as-
ealous of the performance,
le respective instruments,

African, who was hooted

ILLNESS— THE WIDOW ZUMA.

525

and laughed at by his companions for his presumption, and gave up tlio
trial in despair. Thus escorted we traveled onward ; and atler a
hasty ride of six hours from Ectchu beheld from a little eminence those
black, naked hills of granite at whose base lies the metropolis of Yoriha.
About an hour afterward wc entered the gates of that extensive city.
As is the custom, we staid under a tree just inside the walls, till tiie
king and his eunuchs were informed of our arrival, which having been
done, after a wearisome delay, wo rode to the residence of Ebo, the
chief eunuch, who, next to the king, is the most influential miia in the
place."

The king received them kindly, but by the advice of the eunuch,
they said nothing to him of the real object of their journey, pretending
that they wore on their way to Yaouri, for the purpose of procuring
Park's papers. Contrary to their expectations, he did not detain them
more than a week, at the end of which time they continued their jour-
ney toward Kiama. As they approached the Borghoo country, the
country became more populous and cultivated, and the people, many of
whom were Felatahs, treated them hospitably. They reached Kiama on
the 28th of May, and went directly to the house of the king, who had
sent an armed escort to meet them, and appeared well-pleased to see
them. During their stay at this place, there were several public festi-
vals, attended with music, dancing, and horse-races. The king would
not permit them to visit Wawa, but required that they should go direct
to Boussa.

John Lander was taken ill unmediately after leaving Kiama, and
continued to grow worse from day to day. During the intervals of his
delirium, he gave directions with regard to his family, supposing that he
could not live. Richard watched him with great distress and anxiety ;
but on the night of June 10th, his disorder took a favorable turn, and
he gradually recovered. While Richard was occupied in nursing him,
an old woman applied to him for medicine that would produce her an
entire new set of teeth ; or, said she, " if I can only be supplied with
two large and strong ones, I shall be satisfied with them." The woman
was becoming rather impertinent, when Lander recommended her to
procure tw^o iron ones from a blacksmith, which so much displeased her
that she went away in a pet.

They reached Boussa on the iTth, and were heartily welcomed by
the king and his wife, who stated that they had both been weeping all
the morning, on account of the death of Clapperton, though their faces
showed no evidence of it. The next day Lander writes : " The noted
widow Zuma visited us to-day without the slightest pretensions to finery
of any kind, either in her dress or ornaments, for she was clad in very
humble apparel of country cloth. She related to us, with great good-
humor, her quarrels with her prince, the ruler of Wawa, and her con-
sequent flight fi'om that city to escape his resentment. It appears, that
in order to eflect this, she was actually obliged to climb over the city

626

EXPLORATIONS OP THE NIGER.

wall in the night, and travel on foot to Houssa, which is a very long
journey, and to a woman of her size must have been an arduous task.
Sill' alleged that she had done nothing whatever to merit the displean-
ure of the Wawa chief, notwitliHtanding which ho had robbed her ol
all her household furniture and a number of her Hlavea.

"Wo imagined," continues Lander, "that it would have been bad
polioy to have stated the true reason of our visiting this country, know-
ing the jealousy of most of the people with regard to the Niger; and
therefore, in answer to the king's inquiries, were obUged to deceive hina
with the assertion that oui object was to go to Bornou by way ot
Yaouri, requesting at the same time a safe conveyance through his ter-
ritories. This answer satisfied the kh.g, and he promised lus every a«.
sistanco in his power. Our visitors remained with us a considerable
time, and m the course of conversation, one of them observed that they
had in their possession a tobe which belonged to a white man who came
from the north many years ago, and from whom it had been purchased
by the king's father. We expressed great curiosity to see thia tobe,
and it was sent us as a present a short time after their departure. Con-
trary to our expectations, wo fomid it to be made of nch crimson
damask, and very heavy from the immense quantity of gold embroidery
with which it was covered. As the time when the late king is said to
have purchased this tobe corresponds very nearly to the supposed period
of Mr. Park's death, and as we never heard of any other white man liav-
ing come from the north so far south as Boussa, we are "' J»ed t«j;«;
Ueve it to be part of the spoU obtained from the canoe of that lU-lated

*"*'The'*next day a man brought them a book which had been picked
up in the river after Park's death. It proved to bo an old volume of
navigation, of no value, but between the leaves were some oose papers,
one of which was an invitation to dinner, addressed to Park. In a day
or two afterward messengers arrived to conduct them to the Sultan of
Yaonri, from whom they hoped to obtain more satisfactory relics of
Park's expedition. They embarked in a canoe, and proceeded up the
Niger ; the river, which is split into three channels and obstructed with
rapids, near Boussa, gradually widened to the extent of two miles, and
continued so, as far as the eye could reach. In most places it was ex-
tremely shallow, but in others deep enough to float a fngate. Ihe
banks were literally covered with hamlets and villages ; fine trees, bend-
ing under the weight of their dark and impenetrable fohage, everywhere
relieved the eye from the glare of the sun', rays an.^ contrasted with
the Uvely verdure of the Uttle hiUs and plains, produced the most pleas-

After a voyage of four days, they landed at a village on the eastern
bank, eight miles from the city of Yaouri, which Ues mland, on the top
of a steep hUl. The path up the hUl was so narrow that two men could
hardly pass, and terminated in an arched way through the waU of the

liUmllimm

IQER.

,, which is ft very long
been an arduouH task,
r to merit the displeos-
10 had robbed her of
laves.

would have been bad
itig this cojintry, know-
ard to the Niger ; and
obliged to deceive him
to IJomou by way of
eyanco through his ter-
3 promised us every aa-
with us ft considerable
hem observed that they
a white man who came
it had been purchased
•iosity to see this tobe,
• their departure. Con-
made of rich crimson
iity of gold embroidery
the late king is said to
f to the supposed period
ny other white man liav-
(i, we are inclined to be-
le canoe of that ill-fated

which had been picked
[ to bo an old volume of
were some loose papers,
jssed to Park. In a day
Bt them to the Sultan of
>re satisfactory relics of
3, and proceeded up the
nels and obstructed with
extent of two miles, and
n most places it was ex-
float a frigate. " The
villages ; fine trees, bend-
rable foliage, everywhere
■ays, and, contrasted with
produced the most pleas-
it a village on the eastern
ich lies inland, on the top
irrow that two men could
■ through the wall of the

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

^ttW^i * " .

CIHM/ICMH

Microfiche

Series.

CIHM/ICIVIH
Collection de
microfiches.

^mtf^

Canadian Institute for Historical MIcroreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductlons historiques

- ^. 'j H ftia wjwtawafWJtg.^ .*^

DETENTION AT TAOUEI.

527

city, closed by a gate covered with plates of iron. Three days after
their arrival, the travelers were conducted to the saltan. Sayd Richard
Lander, " He is a big-headed, corpulent, and jolly-looking man, well
stricken in years ; and though there is something harsh and forbidding
in his countenance, yet he was generally smiling during the conference.
The conversation commenced in the usual complimentary way ; and then
our object in visiting Yaouri was briefly and indirectly hinted at. When
we asked him whether he did not send a letter to the late Captain Clap-
perton, while that oflicer was at Koolfu, in which he had affirmed that
he had certain books and papers in his possession which belonged to Mr.
Park, he appeared very much confused. After thinking and hesitating
a good while, he answered with au affected laugh, ' How do you think
that I could have the books of iv person that was lost at Boussa ?' and
this was all he said on the subject."

After remaining at Yaouri seven days, vunly endeavoring to procure
further information concerning Park, the patience of the travelers was
exhausted, and they sent Pascoe with a message to the sultan, that they
earnestly wished to receive a final and decisive answer with regard to
the restoration of Mr. Park's papers, which they declared to have been
the sole object of their visiting him, and that it was their desire to quit
Yaouri immediately. " This bold and to us unusual language seemed
to have surprised and startled the sultan," says Richard Lander, " and
he instantly dispatched the old Arab to inform us, ' that he declared to
God, in the most solemn manner, that he had never had in his possession,
nor seen, any books or papers of the white travelers that perished at
Boussa.* The Arab likewise assured us that we were at liberty to pro-
ceed on our journey whenever we should think proper." They were
thus obliged to give up all hopes of recovering Park's journals, but suc-
ceeded in obtaining one of his muskets from a native of Yaouri. There
can be no doubt that Park reached Boussa, and met his death in the
manner stated.

The sultan afterward requested the travelers to remain a few days
longer, until he could write to the King of England an explanation of
his conduct toward Mungo Park, and an account of the death of the lat-
ter. Meanwhile, there were indications of a war between Nyfie and
Yaouri, which would make their journey to Funda, on the Niger, haz-
ardous by land. They therefore sent a messenger to the King of Boussa,
stating that they would be obliged to return to the salt water to obtain
more money and presents before proceeding to Bomou — (they had pre-
viously stated that they were on their way to Bomou, on account of the
great jealousy of the natives concerning any exploration of the Niger) —
and would be glad if he would furnish them with a canoe to Funda, as
the King of Badagry had treated them so ill that they were afraid to
return thither. On the 18th of July, the messenger returned, and to
their great joy stated that the King of Boussa would furnish them with
a canoe to Funda, provided the road by land was not safe, but advised

fr!

528

EXPLORATIONS OF THE NIGER.

them to obtain also the permiasion of the Kingof Wawa, and other petty
sovereigns whose territories extended to the river. They were now
ready to leave, but the sultan detained them from day to day, on the
most frivolous and contradictory pretexts, until final'yj on the 26th, a
messenger arrived from the King of Boussa, to request their immediate
release. On the Ist of August, they received permission to depart, and
immediately left, after a residence of five weeks in Yaouri, whicn Rich-
ard L.-inder describes as the largest city in Central Africa, its walls being
more than twenty miles in circuit.

Soon after their return to Boussa, the king declared that he should
go down and ask the Dark Water (as the Niger is termed by the na-
tives), whether it would be favorable to their undertaking. They waited
in some anxiety for the result, and were not a little relieved when he
came to them next morning with a cheerful countenance, and stated
that the answer was good, the river having promised to conduct them
in safety down its current. They then set out for Wawa, to procure the
j)ermission of the king of that country, whose territory borders on the
Niger below Boussa. He received them with the greatest kindness, at
once acceded to their request, and sent a messenger to Comie, or the
king's ferry, to engage a canoe for them. Richard Lander was taken
very ill, and obliged to return to Boussa, where he had left his medicine-
chest. Here he soon recovered, and was joined by his brother John, on
the 2 Ist of August. The canoe offered them by the King of Wawa
proved to be too small, and they were greatly delayed by the difficulty
of procuring a suitable one. In addition to this, the king had sent a mes-
senger to Rabba (Rakka of Clapperton), and the intermediate towns on
the river, requesting permission for the travelers to pass down in safety,
and desired them to wait until he had received an answer.

They were thus obliged to remain at Boussa until the 19th of Sep-
tember, when "to our imspeakable joy," says Lander, "the long-
expected and wished-for messenger arrived in this city from Rabba,
accompanied by two messengers from the king of Nyffe, one of whom,
a modest-looking, respectable young man, is his own son. These men
are to be our guides as far as Rabba, after we have passed which city,
all the Nyffe territory to the southward is under the surveillance of
Edercsa and his partisans. *Tho magia,' says the Boussa embassador,
' was delighted with the intelligence that white men were to honor his
dominions with their presence ;' he showed me the presents sent to him
by Captain Clapperton three years ago, and said a great deal in his favor
and commendation. ' And as a proo^' continued the man, ' of his
friendly disposition toward you, and his interest in your welfiire, he has
not only sent his son as your companion and guide, but he has likewise
dispatched a messenger to every town on the banks of the Niger either
considerable or unimportant, even as far as Funda.»

" The king of Boussa was overwhelmed with delight at this intelli-
gence; he capered around his hut with transport, when he saw our

BR.

awa, and other petty
T. They were now
1 day to day, on the
aal'yt on the 26th, a
[lest their immediate
ission to depart, and
Yaouri, whicii Rich-
irica, its walls being

blared that he should
is termed by the na-
rking. They waited
e relieved when he
itenance, and stated
sed to conduct them
rawa, to procure the
itory borders on the
greatest kindness, at
rer to Comie, or the
i Lander was taken
iiad left his medicine-
his brother John, on
the King of Wawa
iyed by the difficulty
king had sent a mes-
itermediate towns on

pass down in safety,
inswer.

atil the 19th of Sep-
Lander, "the long-
lis city from Rabba,
Nyffe, one of whom,
im son. These men
ve passed which city,
r the aurveittance of

Boussa embassador,
en were to honor his

presents sent to him
rreat deal in his favor
d the man, ' of his
your wel&re, he has

but he has likewise
s of the Niger either

ilight at this intelli*
b, when he saw our

affp:cting departure from boussa.

529

guides and heard their message ; and after a burst of joy, he began to
cry like a chil«J, his he.irt was so full. ' Now,' said he, when he had
become more composed, ' whatever may happen to the white men, my
neighbors can not but acknowledge that I have taken every care of
them, treated them as became a king, and done my best to promote
their happiness and interests. They will not be able,' continued the
monarch with exultation, ' they dare not have the effrontery to cast at
me a reproach like that which they bestowed upon my ancestor.' "

Thu next morning they quitted Boussa, and embarked in their c.-mocs,
full of joy at their success thus far, and hopeful, notwithntanding the
certain perils that awaited them. Lander thus describes their farewell
to Boussa, where, in spite of delays, they had been treated with steady
kindness and good faith. " When we quitted the hut, we found our
yard filled with neighbors, friends, and acquaintances, who all fell down
on their knees to bid us good-by. They blessed us earnestly with up-
lifted hands, and those among them that were of the Mohamtnedan
religion feiwently implored for us the favor and protection of Allah and
thei" prophet. The eyes of many of them were streaming with tears,
and all were more or less affected. As we passed by these poor crea-
tures, we spoke to them all, and thanked them again and again for their
good wishes. Our hearts must have been of marble if wc could have
beheld such a scene without some slight emotion. On our way toward
the river, also, the path was lined with people, some of whom saluted us
on one knee, and some on both, and wc received their benedictions as
we walked along."

The current was very swift and the navigation dangerous until they
had passed the frontier of Boussa at the king's ferry, where the Niger
becomes broader and deeper. They halted at the island of Patashic,
until they could procure a larger canoe, which they had j)urchascd of
the king of Wawa, but were again subjected to vexatious delays. Rich-
ard Lander was obliged to proceed once more to Wawa, and part with
more presents from his rapidly diminishing store, before the matter could
be arranged. Meanwhile they were treated with the greatest kindness
and hospitality by the natives, and supplied with more provisions than
they were ab'e to consume. The king of Wawa had promised to send
the canoe to a large town called Lever, a short distance below Patashie :
they started again on the 30th, but were astounded on arriving at Lever,
to find that the place was not in the territory of Wawa, and the king
did not possess a single canoe there. Tliey were therefore obliged to
detain a large canoe whicii they had borrowed at the island of Patashie,
the Wawa messengers promising that the king would j ay for it. Soon
afterward the chief of Patashie sent for it, but the governor of Lever
rcfiised to give it up, and detained the travelers from day to day, until
their patience M-as at an end. Although they were wholly in the power
of the natives, they went to the chief priest, who was at the bottom of
these intrigues, and in the presence of him and the governor, declared

PXPLORATIONS OF THE KIOEU.
&30 , , . „ ^,,.1 ,vouM shoot down

ofsigUtoftbci)lace.

niio.l RaicVie, and started next ;
S ~.»«1™W° "'""'y- XT, *" mbdUAcd «W. mighty trc«

returned in the «>venuig, with a rne^'^ag ^ ^^ ^ ^^^ ^^^^.^^^ ,f ^i.e Dark
,,,,, they were until !">> ^^^ ;^^"^; ^.erning in a canoe yropeUed b>
Water." This monarch eanie the nex _____———

iwiiti

^,, ^^>^,^.mm0m^r^V'^mm?^¥W''»^ ^^F'^^-'^^«%^

i\ shoot down
Tlii« vroclufod
j)olitc and sub-
bark, and push
Tried them out

io, and started next I
own," suy8 Lander, |
nearly equal width, j
the eastern branch, :
the banks was very \^
but verdant, woody, \
a very few minutes, \
banks presented the 1
,a with mighty trees ,
.xuriant foliage, some
[e birds were singing
ts of creeping plants,
trees, and drooping
rottoes, pleasing and
for the Naiads of the

a, and stopped at aB
,ger to the king, ^e
wt they should remain
,c"Kingof theT)a«
n a canoe propelled by

DANGKR FROM HIPPOPOTAMI.

531

twenty young men, who sang in time to the motion of the paddles. The
kin"' sat under an awning hung with scarlet cloth, and M'as attended by
six of his wives and two handsome pages. lie Avas a stately man, well-
stricken in years ; his skin was coal-black and his features coarse, but
commanding. He received the travelers cordially, presented them with
honey and goora-nuts, and offered to accompany them to the island of
Zagoshi, opposite Kabba, where they were to remain.

Here they were detained eight days by the deceit and rapacity
of the King of Rabba and the Kuig of the Dark Water. The former
at first expressed himself delighted with the presents they sent him, but
in a short time changed his tone, and said they were not fit for a child.
The travelers had a rich crimson robe, which had been found among
Park's goods, and was presented to them by the King of Boussa. This
they were compelled to part with ; but the king was so much pleased
that he promised to procure them a large canoe, and refused to listen to
the proposals which were made to him to plunder them. They had the
greatest difl[iculty, nevertheless, in getting a canoe sufliciently large and
strong, while the natives positively refused to sell their paddles, and
the Landers were therefore compelled to permit their men to steal as
many as they Avanted, by night. At length, after much suspense and
anxiety, and no little peril, considering the nature of the people with
whom they had to deal, they pushed off on the 16th, and resumed their
voyage down the stream.

Aft;er paddling all day, during which they made about thirty miles,
they attempted to go ashore for the night, but found the banks so
marshy that it was impossible to land. The men became very much
fatigued, and they finally permitted the canoe to float with the current.
" But here," says Richard Lander, " a fresh evil arose, which we were
unprepared to meet. An incredible number of hippopotami arose very
near us, and came plasliing, snorting, and plunging all round the canoe,
and placed us in imminent danger. Thinking to frighten them off, we
fired a shot or two at them, but the noise only called up from the water,
and out of the fens, about as many more of their unwieldy companions,
and we were more closely beset than before. Our people, who had
never in all their lives been exposed in a canoe to such huge and formi-
dable beasts, trembled with fear and apprehension, and absolutely wept
aloud ; and their terror was not a little increased by the dreadful peals
of thunder which rattled over their heads, and by the awful darkness
which prevailed, broken at intervals by flashes of lightning, whose
powerfiil glare was truly awful. Our i)eople tell us that these formida-
ble animals frequently upset canoes in the river, when every one in them
is sure to ])erish. These came so close to us, that we could reach them
with the butt end of a gun."

During the night a violent storm came on, and for several hours the
canoe was in great danger of being swamped by the agitation of the
waves. At last they succocdod in attaching it to a tree in the current,

6S2

EXPLORATIONS OF THE NIGER.

and lay there until dawn, when they started again. During that day
and the next they went slowly, on account of the rains, but were not
molested by the natives whom they met. On the forenoon of the 10th,
they were inf(Mined that the large town of Egga, where they had been
advised to stop, was near at hand. " We journeyed onward for half an
hour," says the narrative, " when we perceived a large, handsome town
behind a dcej) morass. Several little inlets led through it to the town,
distant about three miles from the bank of the river, which, as we drew
near, we learned was the place of which we were in quest. It was the
long-sought Egga, and Ave instantly proceeded up a creek to the landing-
place. The town is upward of two miles in length, and we were struck
with the innuense number of large, bulky canoes which lay otf it, and
which were filled with trading commodities, and all kinds of merchandise
which arc common to the country. They also had huts in them, like
the canoes wo had seen before. All of them had blood smeared on
their sterns, and feathers stuck in it as a charm or preservative against
robbers and the evil-disposed."

They were well received at Egga, but were much annoyed by the
curiosity of the natives, who, never having before seen white men,
crowded into the house until they were nearly suiTocated. They re-
mained at this place two days : the chief did not attempt to prevent
them from leaving, but their men were so terrified by the reports of the
fierce tribes further down the river, that they refused to proceed, and
demanded their pay. This the travelers would not give : the chief was
appealed to by the boatmen, but declared himself neutral in the matter,
and the difficulty ended in the men coming back the following morning,
and taking their place in the canoe. Soon after leaving Egga, there
were indications of an approach to the sea. A gull flew over their
heads ; and the native canoes greatly rosembled those on the Calabar
Kiver. " For many miles," says Lander, " we could see nothing but
largo, open, well-built villages on both banks of the river, but more
especially on the eastern, and tracts of land covered with verdure, or
prepared for cultivation, between them. Here nature seems to have
scattered her favors with an unsparing hand. Yet we touched at none
ot" these goodly places, but continued our journey till the sun began to
decline, and the men to be fatigued, when we stopped at a small hamlet
on an island, intending to sleep there."

Here, however, they were not received in a friendly manner, and the
natives advised them to go on to a city called Kacunda, where the Houssa
language was spoken. They arrived at this place in the evening, and
were welcomed by a Mohammedan priest, who entertained them for the
night. Tlie next morning the king's brother came, and received them
with no less kindness and cordiality. He made them presents, which
they were too poor to return adequately, but he was more than satisfied
by the gift of some little trifles which he saw about the room. Becom-
ing more friendly and confidential, he gave them a terrible account of

MiSti^^.

)uring that day
19, but, were not
)on of the 19th,
) they had been j
ward for half an
handsome town |
li it to the town, j
lich, a8 we drew
lest. It was the
k to the landing-
l we were struck
b lay otf it, and
Is of merchandise
Its in them, like
)lood smeared on
iservative against

I annoyed by the
seen white men,
seated. They re-
ttempt to prevent
the reports of the
id to proceed, and
ive : the chief was
itral in the matter,
following morning,
saving Egga, there
ill flew over their
86 on the Calabar
d see nothing but
lie river, but more
■d with verdure, or
ure seems to have
we touched at none
ill the sun began to
jd at a small hamlet

dly manner, and the
la,' where the Houasa
in the evening, and
rtained them for the
j and received them
;iem presents, which
a more than satisfied
t the room. Becora-
a terrible account of

PERILOUS VOYAGE BY NIOIIT.

583

the natives further down the river, and advised them to return by the
way they caino. As lie found them rost)lved to depart, ho thou said, " If
you will not bo persuaded by inc to turn buck, and save yoiu- lives, at
least you must not leave this by daylight, but stop until the sun goes
down, and you may then go on your jouniey— you will then puss tho
most dangerous town in the middle of the night, and i)erhaps save your-
selves." The travelers placed faith in tho reprosoiitatioiis of this man,
and therefore judged it prudent to postpone their departure until tho fol-
lowing afternoon. While at Kacunda, they learned that Fuuda was not
on the Niger, but on the Chadda, the moutli of which river, it was stated,
was but a day's journey distant. They were promised a guide, but ho
disappeared just before the appointed time ; tho chief used every argu-
ment except force to prevent their departure, but they were resolute,
and put oil" from Kacunda on the i!4th.

"At three o'clock in the afternoon," says Lander, " wo offered up a
prayer to the Almighty Disposer of all human events for ])rotection on
our future voyage, that He would doign to extend to us Tlis all-saving
power among the lawless barbarians it was our lot to bo obliged to pass.
Having done this, we next ordered Pascoe and our people to eoinmence
loading the canoe. I shall never forget them, poor fellows ; they Avoro
all in tears, and trembled with fear. One of them, named Antonio, a na-
tive of Bonny, and son to the late chief of that river, was as much af-
fected as the rest, but on a different account. For himself, he said that
he did not care ; his own life was of no consequence. All ho feared was,
that my brother and I should bo murdered ; he loved xis dcariy : he had
been with us ever since we had left the sea, and it would be as bad as
dying himself to see us killed.

"We were now fairly off, and prepared ourselves for tho Avorst.
* Now,' said I, 'my boys,' as our canoe glided down with tho stream, 'lot
us all stick together. I hope that we have none among us who will flinch,
come what may.' Antonio and Sam said they Avere determined to stick
to us to tho last. The former I have before alluded to ; tho latter is a
native of Sierra Leone, and I believe them both to be firm follows when
required. Old Pascoe and Jowdie, two of my former people, I knew
could be depended on ; but the new ones, although they boasted much
Avhen they found that there Avas no avoiding it, I had not much depend-
ence on, as I had not had an opportunity of trying them. We directed
the four muskets and two pistols to be loaded with ball and slugs, deter-
mined that our opponents, Avhoever they might be, should moot with a
warm reception ; and having made every preparation for our defense
which Ave thought Avoidd be availing, and encouraging our little btmd to
behave themselves gallantly, Ave gave three hearty cheers, and com-

' mended ourselves to Providence.

' " Our little vessel moA'cd on in grand style under tho vigorous and

animated exertions of our men. Shortly after leaving Kacunda, tho
river took a turn due south, between tolerably high hills ; tho strength

KXl'LORATIONS OF TIIK NIGER. ]

. 1 I ,>t fi... uiinc A tbw miles further on,
„.Hhe current ^""^^^^^:Z, .^w, ,V.,™ »«* i».™a :

„u.on and htais now alio luc .h stream, and for

water. . ,. , f „ villace, to which we ,

werc! very close, ami Iiciru ptuiin. ',' ^..T nv.'i- to the opposite side i

,„„.,„.,u,e of^^'^zTL^:^^^ ^'' "-,",'«'■'

to get away, lor fear ot a liu kin^ u.i fc, , ^^^^^ ^j^^^

was following us, but it was only a /^'l^ ° ; '^ ^^'P'„^„ i,,^ g,„e down, ,

and trees -" '"^^ d7rrtt 'coid^^^^^^^ \

it l>---/f^^- tiled a^^^^^^ o"seciuence was, that we were sud- |

^:;;ss;Xt;^tlth.oane.iy a^^ ^

;;:a\:^sr :i^r zsi:i:; :^r :^^, - it co. two hour. ,

hard labor to get out into the main « agam ,

u At live O'clock in the lu^nu^, - fo-^ ^^j;, ,,, J^d^^t ap- (

a very considerable riv-er, *^"*^'"^^^1' "-^f 'f ^^^^h and on the bank we ,
peared to be three or four miles ;y»«l« ^ ^^ts mouth a ^^^^

Lw a large to.., one part ot - "^l^^f ^^^^^^^^^^ r" ev, and running

Quorra. We at lirst supposed t to be an aim o 'cdadi up it

ftom us ; and therefore directed our coiirse to ^t^ ^^ ^ t increased
a short distance, but tinding the current ^S'^'"^* ";;"^:;^' l^ ,,,,, eom- '
as we got within its entrance -^;-j::Pi;^:5tack il the Niger,
pellcd to give up the attemirt, ^"^^^"'^.,^^7,^,'^A^^^^ inouh-ies concern-
Lnsequently we V-^^^^onM^ ^^t^^n.^^^^^^^^^^ ^,., ,, ^.^ho
ing it the first convenient opportunity, but w e conu

Chadda. ^ , , .„ i.n,1 white rock, in the foi-m

u At 10 A. M. we passed a huge ^'-\ -^?<^^ ^^^ ^ J It was about
of aperfect dome, arising fi^m the ^^^f^ltaZ^i ^y^^t.^n^■^<-^
twenty feet high, and covered with an ^^^^^^^^^ three or lour
consequenceofwhich wenameditthebudKock It ;^ .^

:mles distant trom Bocqua, on the same side of he - « • 1 ^^ ^^^^

on the western side, and were very "eaily lo^t m a wj^i ll ^^ ^^^^,^^
.vith the utmost difficulty we P--- ed th^ c «u,e ho ^^^^ ^ ^^

away, and dashed -^^^:J;TTm^^o^..v and I took a
lirst, and, finding we could ^f^^'lZ^Jl,, [,, strength, and sue
paddle, and animatuig oui- men, wc cxciita a

miles I'urther on,
•oiii which issued
•I'liiij,', or as tho
iilso otl»er towns

ivoiJetl them all.

lay was over, tho

ry thing was still

le stream, and for

iird nothing but a

tho noiso of our

leaped out of tho

illnge, to which wo
nd lauglung, in tho
to the opposite side
fancied that a light
or some such thing,
on had gone down,
1 the way as plainly
;, that we were sud-
pite of all our exer-
iillow channel which
id it cost two hours'

ilves nearly opposite
tho eastward ; it ap-
and on the bank we
iv, and the other the
lat rivev, and running
We proceeded up it
and that it increased
; tired, we were com-
b back into the Niger,
ing inquiries concern-
ncluded this to be the

Into rock, in the form
river. It was about
ritity of white birds, in
t is about three or four
I river. We passed it
I a whirlpool. It Avas
from bi'iug carried
y, I saw the danger at
,• brother and I took a
nir strength, and sue-

A CONFLICT AVolDKD.

olio

cpcdod in preventing hor from turning around. Had our canoe bcconu'
unmanagtahlc, we shoiiM inevitably have pcri-ihcd. Shortly atlcr, seeing
a cDnvcnieiit |ilaci' for Iiiniiing, the men ln'ing languid aiid wi'ary w itli
hunger and ('.vertion, we halted on the right bank of the river, which we
iniagined was most convenient for our jiurpose.

Totally iniconscious of danger, we were rcclir'ing on our mats —
for we too, like our people, were wearieil with toil, and overcome with
drowsiness — when in about twenty minutes after our men had retiirneil,
one of them shouted, witii a loud voice, ' War is coming ! < ), war is com-
ing I' and ran toward us with a scream of terror, telling ns that the na-
tives were liastening to attack us. We started uj) at this unusual evila-
niation, and, looking about us, we beheld a large party of men, almost
naked, running in a very irregular manner, and with uncouth gi'siures,
toward our little encampment. They were all variously ;irmed with
muskets, bows and arrows, knives, cutlasses, barbs, long spears, and
other instruments of dcstruetion ; and, as we gazeil upon tliis Itand of
wild men, with their ferocious looks and liostile appearance, which was
not a little heightened on observing the weajions in their hands, we felt
a very uneasy khid of a sensation, and wished oursi'lves safe out of their
liands.

" Or.c of the natives, wlio proved to be the chief, we perceiveil a little
in advance of his companions; and, throwing down our jiistols, which we
had snatched up in the first moment of surprise, my brother and I
walked very composedly and unarmed toward him. As we aiii)roached
him, we made all the signs .ind motions we could with our iirms, to deter
him and his people froi.i firing on us. His quiver was dangling at his
side, his bow was bent, and an arrow, wliich was pointed at our breasts,
already trembled on the string, wlien we were within a few yards of his
person. This was a liighly critical moment — the next might be our List.
lint the hand of Providence averted tho blow ; for just as the chief was
about to j)ull tho fatal cord, a man that was nearest liini rushed ibrward
and stayed his arm. At that instant we stood before him, and imme-
diately held forth our liands ; all of them trembled like aspen leaves ; the
chief looked uj* full in o)ir ftces, kneeling on the ground — light seemed
to flash from his dark, rolling eyes — his body was convulsed all over, as
though he were enduring the utmost torture, and with a timorous, yet
undefinablo expi'ession of countenance, in which all tho p.issions of our
nature were strangely blended, he drooped his head, eagerly grasjwd
our proffered hands, and Ijurst into tears. This Avas a sign of friendship
— harmony followed, and war and bloodshed Avere thought of no more.

" At first no one could understand us ; but an old man made liis
appearance shortly after, who understood the Iloussa language. Ilim
the chief employed as an interpreter, and every one listened Avith anxiety
to the Ibllowing explanation which lie g,ave us : ' A f^jw minutes after
you first landed, one of my people came to me, and said that a number
of strange people had arrived at the market-]>]ace. I sent him back again

m!!?^-

Y-:'

•w

I!
i

530

KXrLORATIONS OK TIIK NIOKB.

fn ,r.>t .IS lu-ir to vou as 1.0 ci.tiM, to lu-!ir wluit you intcn.lcMl .loitiR. Ho

Z "ft :". 'o l" nus una saUl that you »,u.k.. in a lan«ua,o wluch

: .'^1,;. uu.U..stana. N..t doubting that it was ><-• '" -^-; «

t ick inv vil!..-o at nij^ht, and oarry ..fV my l.ooj.lo, I dos.r d theui to

.' r.l. ,iv..r and tlicre was no further necessity for travelmg at ,

„f I ,e nver m,e ■^^/»1«^;=, ,;;,,, Jf ,„irty miles after passing

A^ '"'otaen'e, uX " ,.ot a .o.'n, or a village, or even a single h«^
Atta,' obsents i^anuti, distance our canoe passed

WMmmi

shores crow>le.l with people to look at ti cm

■

IcikIcmI (Iding. llo

n laii<;iia<,'o which

Jjciur intt'iilioii to

jl JesircJ tliem to

Ir to kill you, and

siiifj that you wt-ro

)f tlie rivLT. Hut

|ur white laces, we

•8, nor move hand

our hands toward

you were

(.'fill.

Such was the eilect
he knew not wliat
lit is your forgive-

10 most dancreroua

iity for traveling at

m to the sea. IIo

the eastern bank,

d probably attempt

ig, and about noon

I, and took care to

shore. Both banks

woods, which were

miles after passing

ar even a single liut,

Be our canoe passed

nt and solitary ; no

lid the plashing of

wivs not heard, nor

'med to bo entirely

ibering in its own

•bazacca, whore thoy
li one of their men
accompany him the
as governor, further
i"om Bonny, Calabar,
liief preceding thorn,
that they found the
lie afternoon, as they
ative in an English
a dozen canoes fol-
respects to the king
^hief, who had a mild
y manner, gave them

KIND RKCKPTION AT DAMUOOOO.

}37

a hut for tlic night, and when they were annoyed by the crowd of cu-
rious natives who pressed around them, told them they might kill as
many as they pleased.

ABOKKO.

The namo of the town was Damuggoo, Tlio next morning the chief,
whoso namo was Abokko, paid them a visit, bringing presents of jtalin-
wine, eggs, bananas, and yams. "lie desired us," says Richard Lauder,
" to ask for any thing wo might want, telling us that wc should have
every thing we wished that the town could afford. He told us that
neither he nor his father had seen a white man, although they had much
wished it, and that our presence made him (juite happy. He then gave
us a pressing invitation to come to see him, which we readily accepted.
lie seemed to bo one of the worthiest fellows whom wo liave yet met."
Tlie man in a soldier's jacket, proved to be a messenger from the King
of Bonny, and proposed to accompany them dowr\ the river to the terri-
tories of hia master. At the same time Abokko, who ordered a grand
public festival next day in lionor of their arrival, and presented them with
abullock, offered them a good canoe, with .a crew of his own people,
provided they would wait until the latter returned from the market at
Bocqua. He assured them that they would be able to continue their
voyage to the sea in this manner, with perfect safety.

The Landers judged it prudent to accede to his proposition, and
during the remainder of their stay were very well treated. The only
annoyance they suffered was from the curiosity of the natives, and the
procrastination of the chief, to whom time was no object, and who, with
all his kindness, delayed their departure considerably. Finally, on the
evening of November 4th, after .a stay of eight days at Damuggoo, they
set off in one of Abokko's canoes, in addition to their own, acconijianied
by the messenger of the King of Bonny. Tlicir departure was attended

538

EXPLORATIONS OF THE NIGER.

by reiiowcd iestivitios. "Tlie paliii-wiiie circulated freely in the bowls,"
says liichard J.aiuler, "and the natives of the village, who witnessed all
oiir proceedint^s with no little anxiety, seemed to be greatly delighted
at seeing their'ehief and the priests so fiimiliar Avith white men. Mean-
vhile several elei)hants' tusks, and a number of slaves and goats, .vero
put into the canoe as presents to the chief of Bonny. A fatted goat was
given us as a parting gift, and a small decanter of rum was thrust m my
brother's bosom as a cordial during the night."

They passed rapidly down the river during the night, and m the
morning reached a large market-place called Kirree. Richard Lander
was iu^tho Damuggoo canoe, considerably in advance of his own, in
which was his brother; and soon after passmg Kirree, was astonished
at the sight of fifty large canoes coming up the river, in some of winch
the English flag Avas flying from a bamboo staff. Each canoe had a four-
poundei- in the'bow, and contained forty or fifty men, all of whom Avere
armed A\-ith muskets. Delighted with the sight of the flags, he ap-
proached them unhesitatingly. The foremost canoe instantly ran up to
his own, .and in the tAvinkling of an eye every thhig was taken out of it,
himself and his men violently disarmed, plundered of their clothing, and
taken prisoners. The boats Avere on their way to the market of Kirree,
whither he was conducted., with but feint hopes of recovering any of
his property, or even of preserving his life. By this time the other
canoe, in -vhieh was John Lander, was observed and pursued. The
boatmen attempted to escape, but Avere soon run down with such vio-
lence that the canoe was capsized, and sunk. John Lander was thrown
into the water, and sustained himself by SAviraraing until, having ap-
proached one of the hostile canoes, he Avas hauled on board by a native.
Meanwhile the greatest tumult and confusion prevaUed. In the struggle
to get possession of the plunder, several of the native canoes were upset
and their crews thrown into the water. The Landers were conducted
to a small island opposite Kirree ; the Damuggoo people and the King
of Bonny's messenger made their appearance and protested violently
against the outrage, as they were on friendly terms with the people of
J^joo, who had perpetrated it ; and a grand palaver, or council, Avas

held.

iVftor a time a search was commenced in the canoes, for the goods,
some of which were found, although the greater part of them were at
the bottom of the river. " We were now invited to land," says Richard
Lander, " and told to ^ook at our goods, in order to see if they were all
there. To my great satisfaction I immediately recognized the box con-
taining our books, and one of my brother's jo-irnals. The medicine-
chest was by its side, but both were filled Avitb : .iter. A large carpet-
bac, containing all our wearing apparel, was lyuig cut open and deprived
of "Its contents, with the exception of a shirt, a pair of trousers, and a
waistcoat. ]Many vahiable articles Avhich it had contained were gone.
ThoAvhole of my journal, with the exception of a note-book Avith re-

y in llio bowls,"
ho witnessed all
;reatly tlelighted
ite nioii. Muan-
aiul goats, .vere
. fatted goat was
ivas thrust in my

ight, and in the
llichard Lander
3 of his <nvn, in
>, was astonished
in some of which
canoe had a four-
ill of whom were
ihe flags, he ap-
stantly ran up to
is taken out of it,
leir clothing, and
narket of Kirree,
ecovering any of
! time the other
d pursued. The
m with such vio-
nder was thrown
until, having ap-
•oard by a native.
[. In the struggle
janocs were upset
s were conducted
>plc and the King
rotestcd violently
ith the peoi)le of
', or council, was

cs, for the goods,
of them were at
nd," says Richard
!e if they were all
lized the box con-
i. The medicine-
. A largo carpet-
apen and deprived
of trousers, and a
tained were gone,
lote-book with re-

TIIE TRAVELERS TAKEN PRISONERS.

C39

marks from Rabba to this place, was lost. Four guns, one of which had
been the property of the late Mr. Park, four cutlasses, and two pistols,
were gone. Nine ekphants' tusks, the finest I had seen in the country,
which had been given me by the Khigs of Wawa ami Boussa, a (luan-
tity of ostrich-feathers, some handsome leojiard-skins, a great variety of
seeds, all our buttons, cowries, and needles, which wore necessary for us
to purchase provisions with— all were missing, and said to have been
r,..nk in the river. The two boxes and the bag were all that could be

fouji.d.

"At about three in the afternoon we were ordered to return to the
small island from whence we had come, and the setting of the sun being
the signal for the council to dissolve, we were again sent for to the
market. The people had been engaged in deliberation and discussion
during the whole of the day, and with throbbing hcaits wo received
their resolution in nearly the following words :—' That the king of the
country being absent, they had taken upon themselves to consider the
occurrence which had taken place in the morning, and to give judgment
accordingly. Those of our things which had been saved from the water
should be restored to us, and the person that had first commenced the
attack on my brotht-, should lose his head, as a just retribution for his
offense, havuig acted without his chief's permission ; that with regard to
us, we must consider ourselves as prisontjrs, and consent to be conducted
on the following morning to Obie, King of the Eboe country, before
whom we should undergo an cxammation, and whose will and pleasure
concerning our persons would then be explained.' We received the in-
telligence with feelings of rapture, and with bursting hearts we oifered
up thanks to our Divine Creator for his signal preservation of us
throughout this disastrous day."

On the morning of the 6th they left Kirree for the Eboe country,
accompanied by two large war canoes. On the morning of the 8th,
after a voyage of two days, the Niger expanded into a lake, out of
which it flowed in three separate channels. Their conductors took the
central stream, and about noon they reached the Eboe town, tlie resi-
dence of King Obie. On landing they Averc hailed m broken English
by a large negro who called himself King Gun, and said that he was
one of the chicts of the Brass country. He added, to their great joy,
that an English vessel, called the Thomas, of Liverpool, was lying in the
First Brass River, two or three days' journey below. The travelers
were conducted to a hut, and soon afterward taken before King Obie,
whom they found to be a sprightly-looking young negro, dressed in a
scarlet jacket and trowsers, wath strings of coral and bells around his
wrists and ankles. The story of the attack and capture was told by the
Bonny messenger in a speech of two hours in length, after wliich some
yams, stewed in rancid palm-oil, were given to the travelers. At the
end of two days, during which they were greatly annoye.l by the curios-
ity of the natives, who allowed them no rest, either by day or night,

III ir-riii-l r-"-- »"'-"^'"'^*'

540

EXPLORATIONS OP TUB NIGER.

they received the decision of King Obic. It was to the eftcct that, as
circuniHtiinces had thrown them into his hands, he intended to keep them
until the master of some English vessel would bo willing to ransom
them for the price of twenty slaves. They could not proceed to Bonny,
because the branch of the Niger leading to that country was dried up,
and the only chaimel navigable from Eboe to the sea, was that through
the dominions of the King of Brass.

Shortly afterward they noticed that earnest conferences were held
between King Obie and King Boy, the son of the old King of Brass,
and their suspense was soon relieved by the latter, who stated that he
hud arranged to pay King Obic their ransom, provided they would give
him an order on Captain Lake, of the brig Thomas, for their value m
EiK^ish "oods, with a cask of rum and some additional articles, lie
a<-r° ed to convey them on board the vessel, as soon as the captain had
paid him the amount of the order. They were overjoyed at Mns pros-
pect of release and immediately wrote a request to Captain Lake, not
doubting but that he would immediately ransom them. "Fcarnig,"
savs Richard Lander, "that something might yet occur to detam us,
and ultimately change the king's resolution altogether, we were most
ca.-er to get out of the reach of him and his people as quickly as pos-
sible Therefore we lost not a moment, but hastened to our lodgings,
.ind having sent our people on board Boy's canoe, we hurried after them
immedi-itely, and embarked iit three in the afternoon, November 11th.
And thus terminated four of the most wretched days of our exist-

They sailed down the main branch of the Niger for three days and
one ni<^ht. The shores were thickly inhabited, and the villages sur-
rounded with plantations of yams, bananas, and other kinds of fruit
and vegetables. As they approached the sea, however, the shores be-
came low and swampy, and lined with a dense growth of mangrove.
The Landers were greatly cramped and incommoded in King Boy's
canoe, and were but scantily supplied with food. On the third day they
remarked with joy the appearance of tide-water, and at noon, on the
fourth, reached Brass Town, only sixty miles from the mouth of the
Ni<-or, which, they were infomed, was here called the River Nun On
landing, they were surprised to see a white man, who proved to be the
captain of a Spanish slaver lying in the Brass River. The next day it
was decided by King Boy, and his father, King Forday, that the fomer
should go with Richard Lander to the English vessel, leaving his brother
John as a security for the amount of ransom to be paid. The travelers
now looked upon their journey as completed, and considered that all
their trials and difficulties were at an end.

The canoe with Lander and King Boy reached the Nun, or First
Brass River, early on the morning of November 1 8th. " About a quar-
ter of an hour after wo had entered the River Nun," says Lander, " we
descried, at a distance before us, two vessels lying at anchor. The emo-

10 cftcct that, as
'd to keep them

llinir to ransom i

•ceed to Bonny, j

T Avaa dried up, I

IS that through j

nces were held |
King of Brass, i

stated that he \
they would give j
•r their \alue in !
al articles. He }
the captain had j
yed at ^his pros-
iptain Lake, not j
im. " Fearing,"
jur to detain us,

•, we were moat
IS quickly as pos-
to our lodgings,
iirricd after thera
November 11th.
lys of our exist-

)r three days and
the villages sur-
er kinds of fruit
r, the shores be-
v\h. of mangrove.

1 in King Boy's
he third day they

at noon, on the
he mouth of the
River Nnn. On
proved to be the

The next day it
y, that the fonner
}aving his brother
d. The travelers
)nsidcrcd that all

he Nun, or First

" About a quar-

!ays Lander, " we

inchor. The emo-

MEETINO WITH THE ENGLISU CAPTAIN.

541

tions of delight which the sight of them occasioned are quite beyond my
powers of description. The nearest to m was a schooner, a Spanish
slave-vessel, whose captain we had seen at Brass town. Our canoe wax
quickly by her side, and I went on board. The captain received me very
kindly, and invited me to take some spirits and water with him.

" We now directed our course to the English brig, which w.as lying
about three hundred yards lower down the river. Having reached her
with feelings of delight mingled with doubt, I went on board. Here I
found every thing in as sad a condition as I had in the schooner ; four
of the crew had just died of fever; four more, which c(iini)leted the
whole, were lying sick in their hammocks, and the captain ajipeared to
be in the very last stage of illness. He had recovered from a severe at-
tack of fever, and had suifered a relapse in consequence of having ex-
posed himself too soon, which had nearly been fatal to him. I now-
stated to him who I was, explained my situation to him as fully as I
could, and had my instructions read to him by one of his own people,
that he might see I was not imposing on him. I then requested that
he would redeem ns by paying what had been demanded by King Boy,
and assured him that whatever he might give to him on our account
would certainly be repaid him by the British government. To my utter
surprise and consternation, he flatly refused to give a single thing, and,
ill and weak as he was, made use of the most offensive and shameful
oaths I ever heard."

Lander, disappointed and mortified beyond expression, then requested
King Boy to take him to Bonny, where there were probably other En-
glish vessels ; but the latter declared that if one captain would not pay,
another would also refuse. Finally, on Lander's representing to the
captain that some of his men would be useful to assist in working the
vessel, the latter requested King Boy to go back and bring John Lander
and the boatmen, declaring that nothing would bo paid mitil they were
on board. The captain then added that if they were not brought within
three days, ho would sail without them. The intervening time Avas
passed by Lander in great anxiety and distress, and on the evening of
the third day the brutal captain declared that he would put to sea the
next morning. Fortunately there was such a swell on the bar that ho
was afraid to cross, as he had refused to pay the native pilot who had
brought him in, and the place was very dangerous for large vessels.
That evening Richard Lander saw some canoes coming down the ri\'cr,
and early in the morning King Boy brought his brother on board, with
their servants and boatmen.

Captain Lake received John Lander civilly, but immediately expressed
his determination to dismiss King Boy without giving him a single ar-
ticle, and then make the best of his way out of the river. Tlie travelers
had three silver bracelets and some trinkets left among their scanty bag-
gage, which they gave to Boy, who treated them with the greatest in-
dignation and contempt. Richard Lander thus describes the scene

542

EXPLORATIONS OP THE NIGER.

>vhicli foUowca : " Boy now ventured to approaoli Captain Lake on tho

o.nrter-clock, an.l, witli an anxious, potitionin.o; countonanco, a-sked lor

(ho -oods xvhid. had been promised hini. Prepared for the desperate.

iranie he was ahout to plav, it was the object of Lake to -am as much

time as riossible, that he mi-ht -ft his vessel under way before he came

to an one., rupture. Therefore he pretended to be busy in wnt.nc:, and

desired P.ov to wait a moment. Hecoming iinpatient witli delay, Boy

repeated hi's demand a second and a third time, ' Give mo my bars.'-

' I NO wii I " '^'lid Lake, in a voice of thunder, which one could hardly

have expected from so e.naciatcd a frame as his. ' I no will I tell you ;

I won't -ivc vo.i a flint.' Terrified by the demeanor of Lake, and the

threats and oaths he made use of, poor King Boy suddenly retreated,

and seeing men going aloft to loosen the sails, apprehensive of bemg

carried olf t.. sea, he quickly disappeared from the deck of the brig,

and was soon observed making his way on shore in his canoe, with the

rest of his people ; this was the last we saw of him." _

It was ibur days before the brig succeeded in getting over the bar,
and after all the perils through which they had passed, the intrepid trav-
elers narrowly escaped a watery grave. The vessel twice dritted to the
edce of the breakers, and at one time there seemed no hope ot her ei^
cane Fu.allv, at noon on the 27th, they reached the open sea and
sailed for Fen.ando Po, where they arrived on the 1st of December.
The Landers were verv kindly received by Governor Becroft who sup-
rliod ail their wants, knd treated them with the greatest hospitality.
After remaining on the island until the 20th of January, 1831, waiting
iu vain for a chance of getting to England, they took passage to Rio
Janeiro i.i the ship Caernarvon. A fever broke out on board soon after
they sailed ; several of the crew died, and for many days the Landers
and three black men were the only persons strong enough to manage
the ship and attend to the sick. They did not reach llio Janeiro until
the 16th of March.

The admiral of the British squadron on the coast of Brazil imme-
diately gave them a passage to England on board of a transport ship,
which sailed for Portsmouth on the 20th. " On the 9th of June " says
Richard Lander, " we arrived at Portsmouth, and gladly landed, with
hearts full of gratitude for all our deliverances."

" Thus " remarks Captain Allen, "the solution of tho problem which
has excited the interest of so many ages, has been accomplished by the
most modest of means, while many costly and more imposing ""dertak-
ings have failed. A solitary pedestrian discovered the long-hidden
Ni<'er in its course through hitherto almost unheard-of countries ; and
two unpretending young men, committing themselves m a frail bark to
its mysterious bosom, were borne by it through unknown regions, a di^
tance of more than six hundred mUes, to its termination m the vast and
imiltitudinous ocean."

STEAMEUS ON THE NIGER.

543

itain Lake on the
enanco, asked for
for the desperate

to cain as much
ly before he came
sy ill writing, and
; with delay, Boy
e rac my bars.' —

one could hardly
no will, I tell you ;

of Lake, and the
nddenly retreated,
rehensive of being

deck of the brig,
lis canoe, with the

ting over the bar,
I, the intrepid trav-
wice drifted to the
no hope of her es-
thc open sea and
"1st of December.
Beoroft, who sup-
;rcatest hospitality,
uary, 1831, Malting
ok passage to Rio
on board soon after
' days the Landers
enough to manage
I liio Janeiro until

jst of Brazil imme-

af a transport ship,

9th of June," says

gladly landed, with

f the problem which
iccoraplished by the
imposing undertak-
ed the long-hidden
d-of countries ; and
es in a frail bark to
;nown regions, a dis-
,tion in the vast and

LAIRD

AND OLDFIELD'S VOYAGES ON THE NIGER.

On the return of the Landers, from their remarkable and successful
discovery of the outlet of the Niger, they gave such a flourishing ac-
count of the (piantity of ivory to be found on its banks, that some eiit.-r-
prising merchants of Liverpool— actuated by the spirit of legitimate
trade,%vliich had assumed in that city the excitement of the forim-r
traffic in human beings— fitted out an expedition for the purj.oso of a>!-
certaining and opening out the resources of the country.

This mercantile expedition was composet' of one small brig, to be
stationed at the mouth of the river, to receive the expected cargo of
ivory, and two steamers; the smaller of which— the first iron vessel that
had crossed the Atlantic— was built by Mr. Macgregor Laird, whose
family were large subscribers to the expedition, and who liimselt bore a
considerable share in the conduct of it, though the nominal command
was held by Richard Lauder, to Avhom it had been ofiVsred, previous to
the formation of the company, and on whom devolved the duty of select-
ing the articles of trade. The large steamer was named the Qnorm
(Niger), and contained a crew of twenty-six men, all told ; the other
was called the Alburkah (Blessing), and carried fourteen men.

The expedition sailed from Milford Haven on the 29th of July, 18^,2,
and after touching at Capo Coast Castle, where Lander re-engaged Taa-
coe, Jowdie, and others of his former men, reached the river Nun, on
the' 16th of October. Here Captain Harries of the Quorra and one of
the engineers died of fever, which had already made its appearance on
board. There was a Liverpool trader lying in the Brass River, the
captain of which had purchased from King Boy, Richard Lander's jour-
nal of his voyage down the Niger, which had been lost during the attack
on himself and his brother at Kirree. After an interview with King
Boy and King Forday, they furnished a pilot named Louis, and recom-
mended them to take a certain channel, which they stated was the best
for the steamers. The pilot, however, privately informed Mr. Laird
that the chiefs wished to run the vessels aground, and that the deepest
channel was a very narrow creek, which he pointed out. Lander, hav-
ing ascended this creek in a small boat for the purpose of sounding,
found sufficient water, and on the 28th the steamers set out, the Albur-
kah taking the lead. After passing thirteen other anns of the Niger,
they safely reached the main stream in the evening, having made forty-
five miles.

On the evening o'.' November 1st, as they were slowly ascending the
river, Lander sent a note to Mr. Laird, stating that he had received in-
formation that the llboes intended attacking the steamers. While the
guns were being got in readiness on board the Qiiorra, " wc heard the
report of several sho s," says Mr. Laird, "and on going on deck ob-
served the whole bush on our left, which was the right bank of the river

JJ44 KXPLORATIONS OF TlIK NIGKR.

. . v.r.l, from u>», in n l.lazc of innskotry, Avl.ich tlic Al-
ana .Lout seventy y^rds i om am ^^^^^ ^^.^^ ^^^ ^^.^^^ ^^.^^^ ^^

lud-ah yy^^rctnvnuvr. J^ > • •';^^; ^^.^ .,,„ ^o go between Imu and the
clroi. .Iowa the nver ; b t on my ottc m g ^^.

fire ho Hent Loni«, the Kboc P 1"5' »" ;''^. f ;^ • J^i„ i^i^l-sbot abreast of

^^^••- -^^'^ r' '"Xd ^r dVt'o o<^^^^^^^^ -^ .elf-ross.,-ion of j
the town. I was much a"^";'";';'^ ,, jj j . ^^ j ^^Id him, if he ran
thi. pilot, llo could Bpc-ak t«l^\*^^« Ji' .;,,;"i How his brains out.

The fellow laugh , ^^^^^'^^ ^,^^, ,,,, ^,,„ia play at that game,
end of two pis o^, ^ g-t^^ »- ^^^^^.^^ ^^ .^^ ,,,„d ,nd eani^ter, and

saw one) had two swivels. ^^^ ««3 ^ twenty-four-pound swivel ;
«i. O'clock with four ^o^-V^-^ll^^^,'^: the -d-waUsorthe huts
but finding that we ™'^f."°,,XrMrLL«ler hailed us, and we agreed
although we had silenced tho hrmg, f J^' ^"^^^ Accordingly tho

to land and burn the town as - cxamplc^^^^^^^^^^ rest.^^ .^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ ,^,
gig under my command l^d tho way , P ^^^^^^ ^.^g,„.

fowed, and also tho launch -^^^^^^^'u' a fire of musketry over our

cers, and Dr. Bnggs ^'^^'^.^f ^^''^^^ut L loss of a man, and they af-
heads." This was accomphshed, ^^ ithout the oss ^^^^^^^

terward learned that three naives had been M^^^^ ^^ ^^^

The chiefs of the villages ^^^JJ^^JJt'd Tt tLr vlcto^
gratulate them, and appeared h^^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^, ^, ,, ,k

On the morning of ^''^ ";^;;'"^^^ ^^^c preparations for vimtmg
which leads to the town of E»oe, and m f i interview:

King Obic. Mr. Laird gives the fo"«^"^gjr™^ j^ ^i, coeked-hat
Mir. Lander in ^8-^^^""^^^^; d^^^^^^^^^^ uniform, and

that almost reached the g--°«Y;A; van Id attracted so much of the
Lieutenant Allen in his owii, led ^J^^ V*"^^^^^^^ regretted that we

^ natives' attention that Dr. «"Sf ^^^^,7^ a ™'t«re fr^ England,
had not visited Monmoutli-strcet ^^t"-^ J^"^ J^ „,„ ^1,0 had accom-

' Preceded by old Pascoe, J^^^'^^^'.^^Jj^'Ja who were now returning
panied Mr. Lander on his ^onaorjou^n^l^ and wl^ .„ ^^i^,„,

n triumph to the scene of their ^""^^ «^^^^^^ ^[^^^^ ^,^,^,^ accom-
jackets and military caps blowing trur^^^^^^^ J ,^^^ i„

Janied by King Boy and «^°f /^J^ !m the narrow creek more like
Ihcir discordant noises, ^;o advanced ^^P t^« J" ^^ ^^,,, three

n^erry-andrews th-/-f ^ P^:to;t "t d^s I ever experienced, we
quarters of a mile, m one o^ th« ^^^^^^^ Y ^^^^^^^^^ „f

.T.'-'^-^'i

y, wliich tho At-
he was goiiJg to
on him uiul tho
ediiitcly got un-
il-shot abreast of
self-poss'.ission of
d liun, if he ran
>\v his brains out.
wod me the butt-
atthat game. I
and canister, and

I the bush recora-
iea (for we hardly
ire on the town at
bur-pound swivel;
-walls or the huts,
U8, and we agreed
Accordingly tho
er in the cutter fol-
i two mates, cngin-
muskctry over our
a man, and they af-
id several wounded,
day, came to con-
air victory,
nouth of the creek
arations for visiting
it of the interview :
■r in his cocked-hat
lonel's uniform, and
Bted so much of the
Bt regretted that we
ture from England,
ttcn who had accom-
were now returning
dressed in soldiers*
?ating drums, accom-
i emulating them in
row creek more like
row of about three
jver experienced, we
t assemblage of peo-
morc than half a mile
i people armed vnih
and knives fastened

MORTALITY ON BOARD.

545

on tho ends of poles. After waiting about ten minutes, a side-door
opened, and in rushed Obie, a tall man with a pleasing countenance,
dressed in scarlet cloth. Poor Jordan was the first ho saw, and rushing
upon him at onco he gave him a most fraternal hug; then shaking
hands with Lander and myself ho took his seat on tho throne, placing
us on each side of him."

King Ohio afterward visited Lander on board of tho AUmrkah,
There he was received with a salute. During the visit of tho steamers
the members of the expedition were treated with great kindness by tho
king and the natives, but they a^'complished very little in tho way of
trade. Tho principal article to be had was palm-oil, and no ivory was
to be seen. On tho evening of the 9th they resumed their voyage, and
proceeded slowly up tho river, being obliged to stop frequently for tho
purpose of cutting wood. A violent fever broke out on board of tho
Quorra^ and by the 13th, there were only two men on board capable of
doing duty. Captain Hill of the AUmrkah took command of the vessel,
but was soon attacked and obliged to return. The mortality was so
great that by the 24th the Quorra had lost thirteen men, and tho Al-
burkah two. Mr. Laird says : " Mr. Lander's behavior during our sick-
ness did him infinite credit. Ho was indefatigable in his attention to
the sick, and bled and blistered the men as if he had been a regular
licentiate. The application of a blister over the head seemed to givo
the greatest relief, and in my own case and that of Dr. Briggs was, un-
der Providence, the means of saving us. After this is done, I do not
think that medical skill can go further — the question becomes a pitched
battle between the fever and the constitution of the person attacked
with it ; and medicine, after the first necessary emetics and purgatives,
does more harm than good."

On the 27th they reached the large town of Attah, near the placo
where the Niger passes the range of the Kong Mountains, and the fever
began to abate. At Damuggoo, they had obtained sixteen elephants*
teeth from the brother of Abokko, who had been so kind to the brothers
Lander, and they procured a few more from the King of Attah, bat
only after making him large presents. They were ready to start on the
5th of December, but on going ashore to take leave of the king, were
unable to see him, and decided to proceed up the river next morning.
" During the day," says the narrative, " some ceremonies were performed
ahead of the vessels in the river to prevent our passing upward, his
majesty of Attah being very desirous that we should not proceed further
up the river. These ceremonies were performed by men in canoes, fim-
tastically dressed. They stood up and made a variety of expressive
gestures, and concluded their proceedings by throwing into the river
what appeared to me to be alligator's flesh. As the vessels gathered
way, and passed the place where the fetish or ceremony was made, the
natives, who were crowded on the hill on which the town stands, testi-
fied their astonishment by a general yell." On the 21st, the vessels

546

EXPLORATIONS OF THE NIGER.

„f "ik, oUta Niger, from EWe '" ''" J-^'"" ^ * '^ J^^^^^^^^^^
,, /^ I :.>« vi.Mo \vj> oinerccd from a oomparaiiveiy wmuuih «

for«l«, .1.0 samaica of wl,.ch tetrom-J A« ^ • 7 Tho bant, were but

.be ™ngh,a.io„, into a wide ""^ 'PI^^^^ Td Je„.i-^^

.binly wooded, and u,,™„y,a«^^^^^^^ ._, ,,^ ,^^^„„,„,

tbose on .bo western bank '"" ,7. ^^^f^J'ffty „r five hundred

neither appeared .0 '-^^^^ "L^tuleof thjse bill,, and fron;

I bt.pea; ': :.*^ ro'ck **w! found being pnnoipai.y granite and

! *LSrwe pronouneod .ben, of P«.lvo Jor".a«cu. ^^

i ..rising 'l-^'*: 'SXSwthr.be bank. of'.be

Bfty mile., wo reaehed "i" 1'°"= °f°" J, ^^,,^ ,i,ou«n.d fee.. As

river rise » an olovaUon "f ^"f ^^"^Xrinoipally of grani.e, and
fara8woeonldasoorta.n,*ey»reeomp 1 ^ ;„ „„„ ^ „Meh the

!:;::erpr,:»erS"'firnPed >.;^w.d. buttboehanne,

of.bo'river does no. ocoupy -™ 'XTdded -i* twn and villages.

" Ho.h banks of .be nver are *■«? f ™r" „a , „„<! between

I 1 eould eonnt seven from the plaeo yk^'^J^'^J'^;" ,,„ ^^ ^ forty,

of the banks. It may be rather below h^^^^^^^
■ " Tlie ceneral character of the people is mucn supen

\ i„hab^::tf ^f the s.vampy coantry ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
are shrewd, intelligent, and qmck I'^^^^^^'^'^'^.'Z.r^j of life and
positions, and more peaceable m their habits, ine 7

LAIRD'S VISIT TO FUNDA.

547

irliere the Quarra \
a sand-bank, and 1
smselvcs to wait

y and inhabitants ,
with the Chadda: ,
winding and nar- I
»\vn with immense
the extent baffled j
lie banks were but j
nsively cultivated, j

in its serpentine
I inhabitants on its
e foimd the better
nstcad of the com-
Uy presented that
and that has been
igh elevated fifteen
inued flat until we
From thence the
evation of from two
nge of hills on each |
and bold character ;
rhest elevation, but |
ifty or five hundred
these hills, and from !
ncipally granite and 1

ion. j

ttends from forty to j
on the banks of the j
> thousand feet. As j
pally of granite, and |
m through which the
iride, but the channel
red.

ith town and villages,
rroxmd ; and between
lot be less than forty,
e principal towns are
tants at one thousand
ly give the population

superior to that of the
and the coast. They
on, milder in their dis-
he security of life and

property is evidently greater among thom ; though it is still sufficiontly
precarious to prevent the inhabitants from living in isolated situations,
nor will any of them venture upon the river after sunset in small canoes.
Agriculture is extensively followed, and Indian corn and other grain are
raised with little labor and less skill on the part of the cultivators."

It was determined to build a hut on the hill nt the junction, and open
a market for the purpose of trading with the natives. The arrangements
were completed on the 29th of January, 183.3, but the result was not
what had been expected. Very little ivory was brought in ; the indigo
was so badly prepared as to be valueless, and the otlier articUs offered
would scarcely pay the cost of transport.ition. To .add to their misfor-
tunes, fever broke out again ; Mr. Laird was several times on the verge
of the grave ; Dr. Briggs died on the 28th of February, and i\Ir. Lander,
who had been prevented from reaching IJabba and lloussa, in the Albur-
kah, on account of the shallowness of the water, returned ill, with the
loss of some of his men. News having reached the expedition th.at the
King of Funda (the town which Lander had .attempted to reach, on his
return from Sackatoo to Badagry) desired some of the white men to
visit him, Mr. Laird determined to proceed thither, and Lander promised
to follow him, as soon as he should be strong enough.

Toward the end of March, Mr. Laird set out, and after a voyage of
seven days up the Chadda, in the QHorra''s boat, reached the io\m of
Yimmaha, thirty miles from Funda. As he was too ill to travel on
horseback, he sent his goods and men by hand, and continued his way
up the river to a village about nine miles from the capital, whither he
was carried in a hammock. The next morning he visited the king, who
was a sinister-looking person, dressed in robes of silk and velvet. The
hut to which Mr. Laird was conducted, was so dirty and small that he
set out to hunt a better one. One of his men, Sarsfield, soon came run-
ning to him with the news that the king had seized upon all his goods,
and had prohibited any person from furnishing him with a residence.
He finally, however, furnished them with a rather better hut. " After
being in my new quarters a few days," says Mr. Laird, " I began to sus-
pect that my Funda trip would turn out an unprofitiible speculation, as
two or three natives had been severely flogged for attempting to sell me
some ivory; and the king, who visited me every day, evidently had none
— or if he had, thought it better to keep it and my goods also. I had,
in short, been completely decoyed, and had only myself to blame, as I
had put myself entirely in the king's power."

He finally prevailed upon the king to allow him to send Sarsfield to the
Qnorra, apparently to procure more goods, but in reality to bring rock-
ets and ammunition. After an absence of fourteen days, the latter re-
turned with the news that Captain Hill, of the Albiirkah, was so ill that
Mr. Lander had set off in a canoe for the sea-coast with him. " If I was
glad to see Sarsfield," observes Mr. Laird, " he was overjoyed to find me
still alive, and though much fatigued with his journey, having walked

648

EXPLORATIONS OF TUB NIGER.

from Yimmaha, a distanco of tliirty miles, we sat up until nearly day-
break, and laid a plan fur frightening thu king and his people, all the
credit of which is due to him both for its invention and success. He had
brought the rockets with liiin, and had let off one at Yimmalia, and ile-
seribed tlic terror and alarm of the inhabitants produced by it as excess-
ive. They looked upon him as a deity, and supplied him in consequence
with provisions and carriers to Funda. Ho proposed to try the effect
of them here, Icttmg off three or four at a time, and burning blue-lights
aller them.

" The next morning wo had a visit from the king, who wished to see
what Sarsiicld had brought. I gave him to understand that my people
would not send any thing until I went to them myself, and that in the
evening I intended to make a grand fetish to my god, to know whether
I should go, or stay at Funda. The king said that was good, and that
ho would attend with all his priests and summon the inhabitants to wit-
ness it. The fetish was to be made under a largo tamarind-tree, at the
upper end of the street in which the court was wherein we resided.
Wo made as much of this affair as wo could, and pretended to go
through sundry preparations, in order to impress on the minds of these
people an idea of its importance.

" In the evening I was carried out about seven o'clock, and seated
in the street opposite the tree, the king and his chief men close by, sur-
rounding Sarsfield and the Krooracn, who were holding the rockets and
blue lights that we had brought out for the occasion. As a conunence-
mcnt of the proceeding, I took a piece of paper and with great solemnity
fastened it to one of the rocket? and gave it to Sarsfield ; we agreed
that the signal for firing the rockots and blue lights, should be the dis-
charge of my pistol. An immense crowd of natives Avas assembled to
witness the ceremony of the white man's fetish ; the wide street was
filled, and the roofi of the houses and the tops of the walls were crowded
with spectators, all full of wonder and speculation aa to what they
wore to see.

"Every thing being ready, I fired my pistol, and up flew four
beautiful tv/o pound rockets, the discharge of which was immediately
followed by the blaze of six blue lights, throwing a ghastly glare over
the whole scene. The effect was perfectly electric ; the natives had no
idea of what was coming, and fled in all directions. The king, fiUed
with terror, threw himself on the ground before me, and placing one of
my feet on his head, entreated me to preserve him from harm, and to
inform him what was the decision of the Fates. It was now my turn to
make use of the power which I was supposed to possess, and I replied
that I should tell him presently, but that I must now return to my house
with all my men. The farce had been successful so &r, and the artifice
was only to be carried out to a successful issue.

" After keeping the king in suspense about an hour, I sent word to
him that I was ready to receive him, and that he himself was to come

THE WHITE MAN'S FETISH.

649

til nearly day-
people, all the
eco88. He had
nmaha, and ilo-
by it as cxcess-
in conBcqucnco

try the effect
ning blue-lights

lO wished to see
that my people
uid that in the
) know whether
good, and that
labitants to wit-
,rind-trec, at the
rein we resided,
retended to go

1 minds of these

ilock, and seated
len close by, sur-
the rockets and
As a commencc-
j great solemnity
field ; we agreed
bould be the dia-
was assembled to
I wide street was
dls were crowded
i& to what they

ad up flew four
was immediately
'hastly glare over
le natives had no
The king, filled
ad placing one of
om harm, and to
iS now my turn to
388, and I replied
etum to my house
ir, and the artifice

r, I sent word to
iself was to come

and see the result of the fotish. Ho came iiinnodiiitely, and as soon as
he was seated, I told him that I had sent for him to see wlu'thcr I was
to go or stay, and that my god would punish them i" ?. .naiiuer of wliich
they had no idea, if thoy presumed to break his commandments. I
then took from my pocket a little compass, and explained to him, that
if the needle in it pointed toward nic, as soon ns it was jjlaccd on tlic
ground, that I was to go from Funda, and that if toward liiin that I
was to stay, to all of which ho attended witli mueh reverence. I of
course took care to know my position, and placing the compaHs on the
ground, the needle very properly turned toward mo, Tliis was sufficient,
the thing was done, and the king was convinced that he should allow me
to depart freely. I wished liim to handle it, but ho shrunk ft-om it with
terror, imagining that it was a living creature, and was glad to get out
of my presence, after having promised to give mo horses, or whatever
I might want in the morning. "Wo had the greatest difficulty to pre-
serve our gravity throughout this farce, and when left to ourselves wo
enjoyed a hearty laugh at the success of our plan, and the credulity of
the king."

Mr. Laird lost no time in returning to the Qiiorra, which lio reached
in the beginning of June, having been detained seven weeks at Funda.
He dispatched the purser, Mr. Hector, to the latter place, for the pur-
pose of bringing away the goods ho had been obliged to leave behind
him, but without success. Findnig it impossible to trade with the
natives to any advantage, his crew being disabled by sickness, and him-
self in a dropsical state which threatened to become fatal, ho determined
to return to the coast. "On the 10th of July," he says, "the water
havmg risen by measurement fourteen feet, wo got under weigh, taking
the AUmrkah in tow, and proceeded rapidly down the river, passing the
beautiful gorge through the Kong Mountains, and arriving at Bocqua,
where we anchored to purchase rice and other provisions. About two
o'clock }'-. the afternoon, to my great surprise, a boat under canvas hove
in sight. I sent a boat to her with Hector, who returned with Mr.
Lander and Mr. Oldfield, our surgeon, bruiging a parcel of letters for
me. Mr. Lander was looking much worse than when I last saw him,
and had evidently suffered much in the boats from exposure to the
weather. He had been thirty-two days on hia passage from the Nun,
in the brig's long boat. Mr. Lander having determined to endeavor to
reach Boussa in X\xq ATburkah, ^xe^ his departure for the 27th; and
though very anxious myself to visit a place hallowed by the melancholy
fate of Mungo Park, I did not consider myself justified in returning,
and adhered to my determination to lay the vessel up at Fernando Po
and return to England."

T8n«ri« Tfaiuwii

650

EXl'LUliATlUN.S OF Tllk; MUKU.

NAUIIATIVK OK Hit. OLDIMKLD.

Mr. Laird carried out lii.s purposo, anil rcuciied Livorjiool in safety,
witli rt'Mtori'd hoaltii, in January, I8;t4. Wc now follow this fortunes of
tho ruinuiniiig vessel, tlie Alburkali, wliich once more j)rocecded up tho
Niger, having on board Kiehard Lauder, Lieutenant Allen, and Dr. Old-
field.

On tho 2d of A\igust they entered tho Chadda, intending to ascend
it to tho eastward as far as Lake Tchad, if practicable ; but after pro-
ceeding a distance of one hinidred and four miles, and reaching a country
calletl Domah, tho king of which was at war with tho Shekh of Bomou,
they ran out of provisions, and were obliged to return. Tho jjcople
would neither trade nor sell them any thing, but deserted tho villages
iuid retreated into the woods at their approach. On tho 20thof j^ugust
they again entered the Niger, which they designed ascending to Houssa,
or as far as it would bo possible for tho steamer to go. On reaching
Kacunda, tliey saw the old schoolmaster who hail been so friendly to tho
brothers Lander on their first voyage, and was greatly surprised to see
one of them again. The river was rising rapidly, and they experienced
no difficulty in ascending. Dr. Oldtiold says : " A number of natives
lined the bank of the river, who, as tho vessel approached thom, fell upon
their knees. Our interpreter hailed thom, and was answered that they
came to see the people of God. A largo canoe was now seen approach-
ing from a distance, containing nearly forty persons, several of whom
wore Mallams. When near the vessel, the Mallams and natives in front
fell down on their knees, exclaiming, ' Allah um do lo la fee ! Allah um
de lo la fee !' (God is great, and God preserve you !) They continued
repeating extracts from tho Koran as they drew nearer ; and when tho
Mallams in tho front had knelt, those behind thom fell down in the same
manner. It was an extraordinary sight, and produced a strange but
very pleasing effect."

At Egga, where they arrived on the Tth of September, they saw
Felatahs for the first time. They made no halt here, however, but kept
on their way to Rabba, which they reached, without accident, on the
10th. " As we rapidly approached the town," says Dr. Oldfield, " it ap-
peared to bo situated on the slope of a rising ground ; and the houses
being built one above tho other, impart to it tho appearance of an am-
phitheater. "With the aid of a glass we could discern an amazing crowd
of natives assembled on the banks; bvit, what was more in accordance
with our wishes, we could distinguish Iiorses, cows, bullocks, sheep, and
goats. As we drew nearer, wo found the city to be of immense extent,
with villages all round the suburbs. The king was apprised of our in-
tention to fire a salute, and the walls of liabba, for the first time, re-
echoed with the sound of British cannon, and lier people witnessed a
novel sight in the arrival of a British steam-vessel constructed of iron.

Tjiool ill safety,

w till! i'ortuiK'H of

»roccciIt'(l up the

lion, and Dr. Old-

tonding to asceud
; but aftor pro-
aching a country
Shekh of 13omou,
urn. The })(.'oplo
Bited the villages
he 20th of August
ending to IJoussa,
go. On reaching
n so friendly to the
ly surprised to hoc
they experienced
number of natives
hod them, fell upon
inswered that they
ow seen approach-
i, several of whom
ind natives in front
) la fee ! Allah um
) They continued
rer ; and when the
II down in the same
iced a strange but

sptember, they saw
, however, but kept
It accident, on the
)r. Oldfield, " it ap-
d ; and the houses
pearance of an am-
1 an amazing crowd
aore in accordance
jullocks, sheep, and
of immense extent,
apprised of our in-
ir the first time, re-
people witnessed a
ionstructed of iron.

I
; I

FAILURE OF TIIK KXPKDITION.

651

After our salute, our people broke nut into three hearty chcors, which
porha|)s surprised still more the thousands of human beings that were
assemblofl before the walls of Habba."

It was determined to establish a trade nt this place, and then to run
the Albitt'ktih as far toward IJoussa as possible, atlor which Lander and
Oldtiold would proceed in the long-boat. Hoth of these plans, however,
wore thwarted ; the goods did not meet with a ready sale, and the en-
gineer discovered a flaw in the cylinder, which disabled the boat from
advancing against a strong current. They remained hero until the iJd
of October, when, finding that little was to be done in tho way of trade,
and that the river was begnining to fall, they decided to return to the
sea-coast. While visiting their old friend Abokko, at Damuggoo, on the
voyage down. Lander gave him a very handsome necklace, which had
been intended for tho King of Houssa, and he repaid it by the gift of a
large inland opposite the town, to which tho name of English Island wa'^
given. Mr. Brown, one of tho company's clerks, Avas placed upon it,
to trade with the natives during the absence of tho steamer, Abokko
having promised to build a Iiouse tor him. Tho vessel then resumed her
voyage, and reached the sea on tho Slst.

" No sooner had wo reached Fernando Po," says Dr. Oldfield, " than
I became too unwell to attend to any thing that was going forward re-
specting the destination of tho vessel. Lieutenant Allen, having com-
pleted his survey of tho river, determined on returning to England by
tho first opportunity ; and it was now arranged that I should go again
»i[) tho river with the vessel, while Mr. Lander, after visiting Capo Coast
and Accrah for cowries, was to follow me, and expected to rejoin me up
the river in about six weeks."

On the 27th of November they were again in tho River Nun. Lan-
der left the same day in tho Quorra for Capo Coast, while tho Albiirkah,
under the command of Dr. Oldfield, sailed for tho Niger. Shortly after
passing Ebot, the engine gave way, and all efforts to repair it seemed to
be ineffectual. While these attempts were going on. Dr. Oldfield took
a boat and ascended the river to Iddah, where ho arrived on the 23d
of December, and found Mr. Brown, tho clerk, who had been left behind.
Finally, on the 1st of January, 1834, the engine was again put in motion,
but in tho mean time the engineers and several of the crew had died.
Dr. Oldfield was, therefore, obliged to intrust the management ot ,.c\ .
engine entirely to tho black firemen. They proceeded very slow y, and
did not reach Iddah until the 14th.

From this time forward, tho journal of Dr. Oldfield is little else than
a record of his dealings with the Kings of Iddah, Abokko, and other na-
tive chiefs, in his endeavors to establish a trade. The former, whoso
name was Attah, was the same man who had poisoned Pascoe, and en-
deavored to get Lander into his power with the same object. Abokko
alone was faithful, and inclined to take their part, but there was no
end to the intrigue and deceit which they encountered. The trading

■•'* ^1, ««, ifi fc mnurtln^'-'l/t, WQt 'V-

i i

562

EXPLORATIONS OF THE NIGER.

operations were tolerably successful, and t jey received a larger quantity
of ivory than they had before taken. In the early part of February
they heard a rumor that Richard Lander, in ascending the river to re-
join them, with a supply of cowries, had been attacked and plundered
in the £boe country ; and this was confirmed on the 20th of March by
a letter from Lander himself, who stated that he had been attacked on
the 20th of January, ntar a village called Hyaramah, about eighty-five
miles from the mouth of the river. Three men were killed, and the
boat taken, with every thing it coritained. Lander and the other men
barely escaping in a light canoe, in which they pulled down the stream
all night. Lander was severely wounded by a ball in the thigh, and
had returned to Fernando Po.

' '- tANDER'S ORATK.

In March, Dr. Oldfield received notice from Abokko that an attack
on the Steamer was designed by the natives, and consequently kept a
strict watch at night, to guard against surprise. He remained in this
region until the 1st of June, constantly exposed to the danger of hostil-
ities, which were only avoided, in two or three instances, by his coolness
and determination. Finally, his men being all more or less disabled by
the fevers, which had already carried off several of them, he decided to
return to the sea. In passmg down the river, he reached, on the 2lBt,
the spot where Lander had been attacked. He says : " About three
o'clock, on passing a town situate on the left bank, about two hundred
natives rushed from behind the trees and fired at us, taking deliberate
aim. I stood by the nine-pounder and fired a rocket over the town ;
but this did not appear to alarm them, for they kept up an irregular fire,

BR.

td a larger quantity
ly part of February
ing the river to re-
cked and plundered
e 29th of March by
il been attacked on
lb, about eighty-five
(vere killed, and the
and the other men
led down the stream
11 in the thigh, and

)okko that an attack
consequently kept a
He remained in this
the danger of hostil-
ances, by his coolneea
re or less disabled by
' them, he decided to
reached, on the 2lBt,
says: "About three
k, about two hundred
; us, taking deliberate
cket over the town;

)t up an irregular fire.

GOVERNMENT EXPEDITION TO THE NIGER.

553

runnin- along the bank with the vessel untU we rounded the point and

lotTut of sight of the town. The musket-balls flew about the tempo-

St house aiTd the ship's quarter-deck in all directions for several min-

.tel and although they struck the chimney and roof of the house, w(

utes; and although they i

""' ZrlLkah reached Fernando Po on the 0th of July. Richard
Lander had died in consequence of the wounds he l^'^^roceivcd and
was buried in a sequestered spot near the town, at the base of a lofty
rtton^rct where! monument has since been placed to his memory
aTtha of he many other daring men who have fallen in the attempt
to open the savage'regions of Africa to intercourse with the civilized

""^ D;. Oldfield took passage for England on the lltb of August. "On
the 18 h of November." he says, "I reached London, but m a very m-
firm state of health, having suff-ered much in my constitution from
exposure to dimete and all kinds of privation and the onljj^nvo^ean
left alive of the crew of the Jlburkah who left Fernando Po m No-
vember "

ALLEN AND THOMPSON'S EXPEDITION TO THE NIGER.

After the failure of Mr. Laird's commercial expedition to the Niger,
no furthe attempt was made for several years. In \^l^^^o.^^^^^^
society was formed, mider the presidency of Prince Albert, "for the
i Ex nctiorof the Slave-trade and the Civilization of Africa." A depu-
' fat rtom this society waited on Lord John Russell, recommendmg
that a government expedition should be sent to the coast of Africa, and
the rtvfr Niger, with commissioners empowered to form treaties of com-
rnerce and f!r the suppression of the external slave-trade. After some

Seration the government acceded, -"^ o',^«" ^^'^ ^^2^^
three iron steamers for the service. Two of these the Alb^t and W
berforee, were 140 feet in length, and of 457 tons burden ; the third, the
5oM<«a», was of250 tons only, and 113 feet m length.

The vessels were built during the summer of 1840 ; m November of
that year, most of the officers appointed to the expedition had jomed
their respective ships, and the greater part of the crews tad ente^d.
Captain Trotter was appointed commander of the ^»er«, Captain Wil-
liam Men, of the TTtWer/orce, and Captain Bird Allen of the Soudan.
These three commanders, with Mr. William Cook, were appointed com-
missioners, empowered to make treaties. In addition, several scientific
men were sent out, under the auspices of the African Cmlization Society
As auxiUary to the purpose of the society, but not officially connected
with it, nor with the expedition, an Agricultural Society was formed,
with the intention of establishing a model ferm in sudi a locality aa
might be selected by the commissioners. The Admiralty granted s

654

EXPLORATIONS OP THE NIGER.

passage to Mr. Carr, a colored West Indian, who was engaged to ant as
superintendent of the farm. All the preparations having been com»
pleted, the expedition sailed from England on the 22d of April, 1841.

After touching at the Canaries, Sierra Leone, Liberia, and v.'ape
Coast Castle, the three vessels reached the river Nun on the 9th of
August. The surf was very heavy on the bar, and owing to the vessels

MOUTH OF THE NIOBB.

being rather deeply laden, with their coal, supplies, and the articles for
the model farm, which they had taken on board at Cape Coast, they did
not venture to attempt the entrance, until the 15th, when the sea was
smooth. Says Captain Al?en : " It was a moment of deep and breathless
expectation, both as being a passage of considerable difficulty and as
being the first absolute step in that path, so full of novelty and exciting
interest, but which all knew must be frauglit with danger ; yet their
zeal did not suffer such anticipations to darken their prospect, and the
accomplishment of the entrance of the river Niger was announced by
three cheers from the whole crew."

On the 20th, they started on their voyage up the river, passing into
the main stream by the same narrow channel which Lander and Laird
had chosen, and, after exploring a new arm of the river to the westward,
anchored off Eboe, the residence of King Obie, on the evening of the
26th. The next day, after sending one of his sons to ascertain the inten-
tions of his visitors. King Obie made his appearance, in his state canoe,
with a numerous retinue, and a deafening company of native drummers
and singera. On reaching the deck of the IVllberforce, the king recog-
nized Captain Allen (who, as Lieutenant Allen, had accompanied Lander
and Oldfiold m the Alburkah) as an old friend. " He brought with him,"
says the Captain, " two favorite wives and a daughter ; one of the for-

TREATY WITH KINO OBIE.

555

engaged to act as
laving been com-
of April, 1841,
ibena, and v^'ape
in on the 9th of
ring to the vessels

and the articles for
lape Coast, they did
, when the sea was
deep and breathless
lie difficulty and as
lovelty and exciting
I danger; yet their
ir prospect, and the
was announced by

e river, passing into
h Lander and Laird
^er to the westward,
I the evening of the
I ascertain the inten-
e, in his state canoe,
of native drummers
(M-ce, the king recog-
jccompanied Lander
! brought with him,"
iter ; one of the for-

mer probably was not more than thirteen, and was younger than the
daughter. They were simply attired with a scanty waist-cloth ; but two
drosses of flaming red silk, and another of cotton print, mipplied to the
expedition by their compassionate sisters of our own blest land, were pre-
sented to them, and very soon put on, but did not appear to add at all
to their comtbrt, as they stood trembling between fear and joy."

UKa OBIS AKD mS WIVES.

After a consultation between the commissioners and King Obic, the
latter expressed his willingness to make such a treaty as they proposed
to him — to give up the slave-trade in his dominions, and prevent his
neighbors, as far as possible, from carrying it on — to give English trad-
ers the freedom of the river, allow them to purchase houses and lands,
and both to enjoy their own religion and to convert his own subjects to
it, without disturbance. On the 28th, the treaty having been carefully
explained, was signed by the commissioners on the part of the queen,
properly witnessed ; and by Obie, witnessed by his eldest son and two
brothers. Captain Trotter then requested the chaplain, the Rev. Theo-
dore Miiller, to ask the blessing of God on this successful conmienccment
of their labors. "The nature of the ceremony having been explained to
Obie," says Captain Allen, " with an intimation that he might remain or
retire, he signified his Avish to join us, and imitated our example in kneel-
mg to the Christian's God — to him an unknown and inappreciable being.

" In that solemn moment, when the stillness was unbroken, save by
the reverential voice of the clergyman, and all were devoutly engaged,
Obie became violently agitated. On the conclusion of the ceremony he
started up, and uttering a sudden fearful exclamation, called aloud for
his ju-ju man to bring his protecting ' Arrisi,' or idol, being evidently
under the impression that we had performed some incantation to his
prejudice, the adverse tendencies of which, it would be necessary to

;

566

EXPLORATIONS OF THB NIOJiR.

counteract by a sacrifice on his part. He stood trembling with fear and
agitation ; the perspiration streamed down his face and neck, showing
how great was the agony of mind he endured. The priest had heard
the cry of his sovereign, and rushing into the cabin with the idol — a
piece of blackened wood, enveloped in cloth — which the king placed be-
tween his feet, was about to offer the customary libation of palm-wine,
I'tc, when Captain Trotter, also much disconcerted at the idea of a
heathen coroniony being performed in our presence, and in opposition to
the rites of our holy religion, interrupted him, and called for Captain

TBI MODRL FARU.

Bird Allen, who had just lett the cabin. It was an interval of breathless
anxiety, the king became every moment more alarmed, and desirous to
continue his sacrifice, until it was explained to him that we had asked
the Great God, who was Father of us all, to bestow His blessing alike
on the black people ard on us. This immediately pacified him, he de-
sisted from the operations, and his good humor as quickly returned."

On the 1st of September, the vessels reached Damuggoo, the resi-
dence of old Abokko, who had proved so true a friend to the Landers
and Mr. Liurd. They were grieved to find that the old man had been
dead for several years. His family, however, was still in great power,
one of his sons, Okien, having succeeded him in the government of the
town and territory. They then proceednd to Iddah, where the commis-
sioners had several interviews with the treacherous old king, AtLah. He
professed his entire willingness to discontinue tho slave-trade, prevent it
from being carried on, to discontinue human sacrifices, receive and treat
hospitably English traders, and finally, to give up such a tract of land
for the purposes of the model farm, as the commissioners might select.
After making all these promises, he was particularly anxious to see the

-^i

"1,

Ibling with fear and

and neck, showing

10 priest had heard

In with the idol — a

the king placed be-

ption of palm-wine,

?d at the idea of a

land in opposition to

called for Captain

RAVAGES OF TUE FEVER.

557

i^i.

.»•»•'

interval of breathless
ncd, and desirous to
tn that we had asked
)W His blessing alike
r pacified him, he de-
quickly returned."
Damuggoo, the resi-
friend to the Landers
be old man had been
3 still in great power,
le government of the
h, where the commis-
old king, Atlah. He
lave-trade, prevent it
jes, receive and treat
such a tract of land
isionors might select,
ly anxious to see the

pre8en.,3 intended for him. All the arrangements having been concluded,
the expedition loft on the 8th for the conflucneo of iho Niger and the
Chadda, near wliich pomt tho oommissioncrs pru])osed to locate the
model farm.

By this time tho fever had made its appearance on board the vessels,
and soon occasioned fearful havoc. Tho men died every day, and they
had every reason to expect a recurrence of tho melancholy scenes on
board tho Quorra and Alburkah. On tho 12th, they reached the junc-
tion, and tho botanist and geologist, having examined the country, re-
commended a spot on tho western bank of tho Niger, opposite the mouth
of the Chadda, and near a lofty hill called Moimt Stirling, by Lander.
ITie preliminaries were agreed upon between tho commissioners and tho
agents of Attah, and the land was purchased for tho sum of 700,000
cowries (about $220). Tho tract extended about sixteen miles along
tho bank of the river, and four miles in depth.

"On the 18th of September," says Capttun Allen, "tho nimiber of
sick had increased to sixty, and death had already done fearful execution
among us. The scenes at itight were most agonizing. Nothing but
muttering delirium, or suppressed groans wore heard on every side on
board the vessels, affording a sad contrast to tho placid character of tho
river and its surrounding scenery." It was at first proposed to send tho
invaUds to the summit of tho hills, in order to enjoy a purer air ; but
the surgeon declared that they could not safely bo removed, and Cap-
tain Trottor then decided to put them on board tho Soudan, and havo
them carried down to the sca-ooast. On Sunday, the 19th, this was
done: "Prayers we.^o read to tho crews of both vessels. It was an
affecting scone. Tho whole of one side of tho little vessel was covered
with tho invalids, and the cabms wore full of officers j there was, indeed,
no room for more."

A conference of tho comnumders was now hold, as to the proper
course to be pursued. On the one hand it was proposed that they
should ascend tho Niger as far as Rabba, to make a treaty with tho Fo-
latahs, and other native tribes ; whilo Captain William Allen, who had
some experience of tho river and its climato, strongly urged an im-
mediate return to the sea, in order to restore the health of the crews.
After a long discussion it wai decided that the Albert should attempt to
reach Rabba, while the WUberforct should descend tho river, and pro-
ceed to carry out the intentions of tho government in the Bights of
Benin and Biafra. Captain Trotter having prepared his dispatches for
England, the vessels separated on tho 20th of September.

Tho Wilber/orce reached Fernando Po on tho 1st of October, and
found the Soudan at anchor there. Several persons had died on both
vessels, and as there was no diminution of the sick-list, but the contrary.
Captain Allen resolved to leave Fernando Po as soon as possible — its
reputation for unhealthinoss being second only to tho fatal Niger — and
to proceed to Ascension, as the best means under Providence of enabling

558

EXPLORATIONS OP THE NIGER.

the crew of the Wilberforce to recovci' their health. A snifill trading
steamer, called the Mhiope, under charge of Mr. liccroft, was engaged
to proceed at once uptlie Niger in order to assist the AlhcTl, if, as was
fjared, her officers and crew should be disabled by fever. She mailed on
the Tth, and two days afterward the Wilberforce left on her sanitary
cruise. She visited Prince's Island, St. Thomas, Annobon, and Ascen-
sion ; the sick gradually recovered, with two or three exceptions, the
vessel was overhauled and thoro>ighly cleansed, and Captain Allen was
about to sail for the coast of Africa in the beginning of January, 1842,
Avhen the melancholy intelligence reached Ascension that the Albert
had returned to Fernando Po, with all her crew dangerously ill with
fever.

"They had been immediately landed at the liospital, where Com-
mander Bird Allen, with several officers and men had fallen a sacrifice
to tlieir zeal in braving to the utmost the climate of the fatal river.
In fact, the vessel and her crew were only saved from great risk of
destruction by the timely meeting of Mr, Becroft, in the Ethiope, Mho
brought them safely to Fernando Po. She had been conducted as far
as the point where her deliverer was met, by the almost superhuman
exertions of Doctors Mc William and Stanger ; but it was not possible
that their unaided strength could have lasted much longer. Captain
Trotter was reported to be in such danger, that the medical men had
thought it necessary he should immediately return to England, as the
tnly means of saving his life, and that officer deeming it also of im-
portance that one of the commissioners should lay before her majesty's
government a statement of the condition of the vessels and survivors of
the expedition, had taken his passage in a sinall schooner which M-as
about to sail for England."

Dr. Mc William's journal of what occurred on board the Albert after
the departure of the Wilberforce and Soudan from the mouth of the
Chadda, adds another melancholy chapter to the history of Niger ex-
ploration. It will be remembered that Captain Trotter had determined
to ascend as far as Rabba, but the number of the sick increased as he
advanced, and by the time he reached Egga, on the 28th of September,
the engineer was unable to perform his duty. The King of Egga re-
ceived the officers in a friendly manner, but refused to make a treaty,
through fear of the Felatahs. On the 3d of October, Dr. McWilliam
writes : " This day our hopes of penetrating further into the interior
received a finishing blow. Our arduous, enterprising, and kind chief, who
was complaining yesterday, has now unmistakable symptoms of fever.
Commander Bird Allen lies in a very critical state, and upward of
twenty others of our companions are completely prostrated. In short,
of the whites at all fit for drv, there remain only one seaman, the
sergeant, and one private of marines, John Huxley, sick attendant, John
Duncan, master-at-arms, Mr. Willie, mate, Dr. Stanger, and myself
The time, therefore, seems now to have arrived when there is no reason-

i
i

tER.

th. A small trading
iecroft, was engaged j
the Alf^':Ti, if, as was
fever. She {sailed on
left on her sanitary ]
Lnnobon, and Ascen-
threc exceptions, the
id Captain Allen was
ng of January, 1 842,
sion that the Albert

dangerously ill with

hospital, Avhere Corn-
had fallen a sacrifice 1
,te of the fatal river. |
1 from great risk of
, in the Ethiope, who
een conducted as far
B almost superhuman
lut it was not possible
inch longer. Captain
the medical men had
•n to England, as the
seming it also of im-
r before her majesty's
jssels and surv-ivors of
I schooner which was

board the Albert after

from the mouth of the

e history of Niger ex-

'rotter had determined

ie sick increased as he

he 28th of September,

The King of Egga re-

iised to make a treaty,

ctober, Dr. McWilliam

rther into the interior

ng, and kind chief, who

le symptoms of fever,

state, and upward of

prostrated. In short,

only one seaman, the

y, sick attendant, John

Stanger, and myself.

rhen thei-e is no reason-

THE MODEL FARM ABANDONED.

569

able prospect of cur reaching Kabba this season ; and no alternative left
us but to return to the sea with all possible speed » . ^, „. ^^

On the voyage down several deaths occurred. Two of the ofl.cers
lumped overboard, whUo in the deUriimx of fever and one of them was
109^ The entire command and management of the vessel devolved on
Doctors McWilUam and Stanger, the former of whom tmdertook the j
navigation, while the latter acted as engineer: and m addition to these j
labofs, they took charge of the sick. At the model farm they found
that the persons they had left had cleared and planted twelve acres o
g oun^Ll built several huts, but Mr. Carr, the super utondont, with
fhe schoolmaster and gardener, wc.e so ill, that the P'^vs-- -^^^^^^^^^^
brought on board, and gave the farm mto the charge ot ^V^^^
an American negro, who had accompanied the expedition from L borM
On the 13th, btlo; Eboe, they fortunately met the ^ .«;,., without
the assistance of which vessel they would have been imable to cross the
bar at the mouth of the Nun, and on the 17th, reached Fernando I o

After the departure of Captain Trotter for England, the command of
the expedition devolved upon Captain Allen. In u ««»;»'tation with
Mr. Cook, the remaining ccmmissioner, it was decided *<> P/'^^^^ J
the Nicer a-ain, to the relief of the settlers of the model 1: an but
Capfain Men deferred this trip until June, when the Niger should be
swollen by the tropical rains. In the mean time he proceeded to ca ry
out the object of the expedition in the Bights of Bemn and Bia r. , which
occupied him until the beginning of June, Avhcn he returned to Fer-
nando Po. He was preparing to set out for the Niger once more, when,
on the 24th of June, dispatches arrived from England to put a stop to
the expedition, and forward the ofiicers and men composing it to En-
gland, with thO exception of the few who would be reqmred to proceed
'' to the reliefofthc persons left at the model farm.

; The Wilberforce was detailed for this service, under the command

^ of Lieutenant Webb, and having been fitted out m all haste entered
i the mouth of the Niger on the 2d of July. She P--«^-«^ J^f '^oJ
rapidly, passed Idda on the 10th, and had nearly reached t'le mouth of
' the ChJda, when she struck on a sunken rock. She was bin m com
'; partments, which alone prevented her from being a total !««« ^'^^ he
j damage was so serious, that on reaching the model f=^""' ^^-^^ ^^^^
wasobli-edtorunher aground to have the hull repaired, ^l^s^^as
accomplished in a day or two, and the vessel got afloat ^S^j -;1' -
fever had already made its appear.ance, haste was made to reship the
' goods and stores at the model farm and return down the river It w£«
found that Moore, who had been left in charge of the undertaking, had
not sufficient control over his subordinates ; the latter were idle and
vicious; and though the crops promised well and the natives were
friendly, it was thought best to abandon the place altogether

Lieutenant Webb returned to Fernando Po on the 29th of July, and
soon afterward saUed in the Wilberforce for England, where he arrived

4 -

560

BXPLORATIONS OP THE NIGER.

on the 17th of November. Captain Allen and the remainder of the ex-
pcdition had already arrived in September. Thus disastrously tcrmmated
an ininosiiig attempt to oiHjn the Niger to Englbh commerce-not from
any want of energy or coinage on the part of those who engaged m it,
but from the ravages of a climate into which few Europeans can venturo
and live. Of the total of one hundred and forty-five Europeans who took
part in this expedition, forty-four died, and only fourteen escaped with-
out an attack of fever.

asR.

I remainder of the ex-
iisastrously terminated
I commerce — not from
90 who engaged in it,
Europeans can venturo
ire Europeans who took
rourteen escaped with-