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SIR DONALD A. SMITH, K.^M.^/\\£^i \ TORONTOK C^/ O \ VVILLIAM BRI MoNTKEAL : C. W. COATES. \ Halifax :V F. lWESj>fs F^ s ^^ X M. %'S Entkkkd according to Act of the I'urliainent of Canada, in the year one thousand eight hundred and ninuty-Hcven, by WiLiLiam Bkiuom, at the Department of Agriculture. PR r: FACE. In cHiiiiiioii with uthors wln» h.'ive )>vvu inttTi'stt'd in, ami nmiu'ctiMl with, tho <k>vi'lo|mifnt «»f thu territt tries foniR'rly uink-r the udiiiiiiistratioii of the Ilu<isitn liay ('oin|>aiiy, I licanl witli much ])k'asui'e of the intention of my friend, the Uev. K. (J. IMacHeth, M.A., to place <»n record an accomit of the ;^enesis and (k^vehtpment of the Selkirk Settlement in the Ivi'd Kiver Valley. The lonj^er such a work is postponed the more difHcult. must, it \tc to carry out, an<l it would he a thousand pities if a descrip- tion of the pioneer attempts at colonization in the j^reat North-West were not ^iven t(» the world. This is neither the time nor the place to enter up<»n a discussion of tlie motives which influenced liord Selkirk in his enterprise. Ho may have keen somewhat in advance of the times iji which he lived, but he had the couraue of his convictions. id his efforts deserve the fullest recognition from those ho l)elieve in the great future in store for Western ai w Canada. Looking back to the period when the movement was initiated, it is not surprising, in view of the then com- parative inaccessil)ility of the country, ov of the inexper- ience of the settlers of the climatic and other c(»nditions then obtaining, and <»f other circumstances, that for IV rREFACE. I ni.'Hiy yeurs the |ir(>;^ress of tlio SuttlfjiuMit vvjis rL'tarded. Tlii'i'i! can l>e no duuht, howevur, that its giJidual «lu- vi-lopnuMit had an ini|M)i-tant lutaring, hotli directly and indirectly, on the i!vents uliich led to the surrender of the Charter of the Hudson Ray ('onij»any, and t«» the ac(|uisition of Uupert's Land liy Canada, throu^^h the Imperial (iovernnient. It has heen the custom to dcserilM! the Hudson Hay Company as an opponent of individual settlement and of colonization. To enter into a controversy on this j)oint is not my purpose, hut it may he proper to state that the condition of attairs at the time in <piestion in the country hetween Lake Su|>erior and the Rocky Mountains, d<»es not apjK'ar to have heen sutHciently appreciated. Owing t<i the difHculties of access an<l eixress, colonization in what is now ]*»ianitol>a and the North-West Territttries could not have taken place successfully t<» any extent. Of necessity, also, the importation of the connnodities re(|uired in connection with its agricidtural development would have heen exceptionally expensive, while, on the other hand, the c(»st of transportation <tf its possihle expttrts nnist have heen so great as to render competition with countries more favorably situated at the moment, ditticult, if not impossible. The justice of these conten- tions will beat once realized, when it is remembered that the Ked River Valley was situated in the centre of the continent, one thousand miles away in any direction from settled districts. Events, however, were shaping them- selves all the time, in no uncertain way, and when the proper moment arrived, the great North-West was thrown open to settlement, railway connnunication became assured, and the country has since progressed, in view of all the circumstances, in a remarkable manner. Person- rREl-ACE. ;■/;■ nlly, it is my opinion, that tlu' Jii'iiuisitioii and (li'Vt'l(»ji- im-nt of tliu Hudson l'»ay Ti'iritory was ini|)ossil)li' juior to the coiifi'dcration of tlu- Dominion. No loss a liody than nnitt'd Canada I'ould have ac(|niiL'd ami administi'icd N«> lar;,'!' a doniain, or havi- undtTtakrii tlu' const rnrtii>n of railways, without which its dcvi'lojnm'nt could only have been slow and uncertain. It was not till IHJS, cit^ht years after till' transfer, that Winnipeg' first receivi-d rail- way connnunication through tin- I'nited States. Thi'ee or four more years elapsed hefore the completion of the line to Lake Su|»erior, and it was only late in 1885 — sixteen yeai's after the Hudson Bay ('om|»any relin- quished their Charter that the Canadian Pacific Itailway was com|)leted from ocean to ocean, and Manitoba and the North-West Territories were placed in direct and rej^idar railway connnunication with the ditlerent parts of the Dominion. There is no (piestion, also, that the jtolicy of the Hudson Hay Conijtany in reijard to the Indians, and the inttsrcourse which the al»ori<.;ines had Iteen accustomed to with its »»tlicers, made the transfer infinitely easier than would have otherwise been possil)h'. In fact, it may he said that the Hutlson Hay Company, v/hile con.servint^ its own interests, as long as was desira- ble, yet prepared the way for the Dominion, and for the colonization and settlement which is now takinjj; place. The record of the real life of the Selkirk settlers will be especially interesting to the inhabitants of the various I'rovinces of the Dominion, to the early setth'rs in Mani- tol)a and the North- West, an<l t<i those millii»ns who are destined t(t follow them in the future, and establish for themselves hap])y and comfortable homes on the grand western j»rairies. Many of the original Selkirk settlers and their descendants have betui pi'isonally and intimately I t VI PREFACE. known tonic, includinjjf one (»f the most respeoted of tlie pioneers, the father of Mr. MaoHetli ; and I hav»^ always res|)eeted an<l admired their sterlinj^ (pialitiesof head and heart. I know h(»w they have worked and how they have lived, and, in my judgment, Manitoba owes more to their etl'orts and to their example than is generally admittt-d, or ean well he coneeived hy the present generation of Cana- clians. One illustration of their simple character and honesty occurs to me at the moment (»f writing. Nothing further was re(piired of them, in connect! »n with the transfer of land, than a personal apjtearance before the Registrar, an«l an oral intimation (»f the transaction to he ert'ecteil, N«> deeds or documents were cttmpleted in such cases, ami no conveyance of the kind was ever (pies- tioned. L(trd Selkirk is repre.sente<l to have said that in the lied fiiver Valley alt»ne there is rot»m f()r many mil- lions of people. More modern authorities claim that the prairies are destined to provide homes for as many mil- lions as now inhabit the rnited States. The extension oi the railways in the diti'erent paits of the country is opening up yearly more extended tiehls for settlement, is pr(»viding the facilities for placing families all over the country, and for marketing the pr<»<luce they will be enabled to raise. All these results may be traced to the Selkirk Settlement, and to the Hudson Hay Company, and they will tend to give additional interest to the entertaining and instructive volume Mr. MacBeth has written, for which I venture to predict a wide circulation. DoN.vLh A. Smith. Victoria Ciiamhkrs, London, E.no. CONTKN rS. CIIAITKR T. I 'A '•'=7 I iNTIHntlTToKY • • CIIAlTMIi II. riKNKSlS (»K TIIK Si;i,KIHK CoLoNY . CHAlTKIl III. Skttmn*; inhkk Difkk ri/riKs CIIAITKR IV. Skttm:i» and at NVu kk . CI I APT Kl I V. HoKSK-UAlSIN); AM» llAY-MAKIN«i . I'AOK ir» 22 31 . 40 CTIAITKK VI. Social Lifk . 50 Vlll CONTF.M\S. CIIAITKR VII. SoMK Pk<'I'mak Local Ccstoms . CHAPTER VIII. (-^IVIL AND CoMMKUCIAL LiKK. CIIAPTKR IX. KlHMATK>NAL Fa<'IIJTIKS Paok 57 Tm 7(5 ^^ CIIAITKR X. RKLKilors LiFK «7 CHAPTKR XI. Rklkmouh Life — Continued . (JHAPTKR XII. Missionary Oi'tposts . u: KMi ERRATA Page 83, line 10 — after '• Alexander Ross," read "James A. Murray." Page 100, line IG— after "long distances," read "on horse- back." I'AOK 57 Vut TiiK si<:lkirk si:TTLr:RS 7« IN RHAL lAllL h: J>7 <n; CHAPTKR r. IXTIlODlU'TOIiY. Histories oi* Munitoha and the Nortli-Wcst exist in plenty, and tlic nundter is Ix'in*; con- stantly addled to as the <:jro\vin«^ importance of tho countiy attracts the attention of the world. The work of recordin<^ the leadin*^ Instorical facts C(jnc(!rnin<^ tlie West has ])een so a})ly ant I so exhaustively done by such men as Hohh, Guim, Hart^rave, Bryce, He;^^^ and others, that the present writer would not, under ordinary circumstances, attempt to add anythin^ij in the same line to what has been already written. But it has for years seemed to him, as the son 10 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS *»• of a Selkirk settler, liorn and broii^^ht up amid tlie primitive life and the simple surrouiidiii<^s of this " Western Acadia," that very little, if anything, has been made public of the altogether unique and peculiar life and customs character- istic of those who for nearly half a century, apart from the rest of the world, fought and coiKjuered the difficulties of settlement in a wilderness wild. More than once has he re- solved to essay this unwritten chapter in the history of his birthplace, and more than once have friends, old and new, urge<l the task upon him ; but the fear of failing to do adecjuate justice to the work has up to this date laid an arresting hand upon his pen. He feels that this lost chapter should have been written years ago by some one to whom the life to be depicted was less than a memory and more of an actual experience than it has been to him. But alas! no one undertook the work, and as the time goes by, the fear that it may never be touched at all becomes more real and painful. Hence, though his actual experience in the life related was not many years in duration V)efore that IN REM. LIFE. 11 nni(|ue life lH'<^an to undorgo a change witli tlio advent of new conditions, yet those few years, together witli tales told })y prominent actors in tlie drama, lead the writer to hope that he may furnish some facts and sketch some characters of note and interest. He feels the more encour- aged to take up the task, because amongst those who urged him t(j undertake it was one who, up to the time of his death, took the deepest interest in the countrv in whose earlier and later history he himself was so outstanding and foi'ceful a figure. The reference is to the late Sir John Schultz, who took such an active part in the tumultuous troubles attending our entry into Confederation, and who, when escaping from Louis Riel and hard hunted by enemies, found asyhnii in my father's house at Kildonan. On New Year's eve of 1<S98, Sir John forwarded to the writer an excellent enoravinfj: of old Fort (Jarry, inscribed by his own hand (trembling with sickness) as follows : " F^oi" my esteemed friend of many years. Rev. R. G. MacHeth, of Augustine Church, from Lieutenant-Governor Schult/, Government House, Winnipeg, in grate- :^ 12 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS fill memory oi' my bravo old friend, the Hon. Robert MacBeth, and as a souvenir of stirrinf^ events in other days," Accompanying this was a letter in which the followin*^ sentences occur in reference to a lecture or paper on the subject of the early days : " I am entirely at one with the wish that you may undertake this work — no one more capable — and I only hope that I may be granted life and leave to preside at a meeting when you give the first-fruits of this most interesting subject. The people, the cir- cumstances of their comini»; and their surround- ings were altogether uni(|ue and should be recorded. There is too much of a desire nowa- days to ignore the past and the services in it that men like the Selkirk settlers rendered : s(^ by all means carry out your half- formed design." Besides this, some time aijfo the Rev. W. I). Ballantyne, Editor of the dinadd Pvrshyter'mn, requested an article for the semi- jubilee number of his paper, and having received one (somewhat hurriedly written) wrote suggesting a series in the same tine. After making the suggestion Mr. l>allantyne says, "It is very impoi'tant, you /\ REAL I.II'E. 13 it will a^ree with iiic, th.it tliosu c'lrly days, and the men who llvrd in them, should not he t'or- ^^otten; and you ou;^'ht as I'ar as possihlc, in jus- tice to the hrave men who toiled and l)ore so nnich and so nohly kept the I'aith, to help rescue their nam«'S iVom ohlivion." With this view then before liim, and with th(^ hope ol" writin<^ some chapters on the inner lit'(; of the old settlers and a few character sketches that may be of interest, the writer essays the a(;*reeable but perhaps too and»itious task which the necessities of the case, tlu^ n^juests of fi'iends, and his own desire to be of service in preserving some record of a vanished life seem to lay before his hand. . After writing this chapter and outlining the others, it occurred to me that it would immeas- urably increase the interest and value of the volume if a Preface could be secured from Sir Donald A. Smith, High Commissioner for Canada, who has been so long and honorably connected with the history of this country, and who, moreover, was a personal friend of my father, from whom I have had nuich of fr 14 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS tlie letter and the spirit of the book. I accord- inj^ly wrote to the worthy kni^lit (who, it is needless to say, has not seen this paragraph), and take this opportunity of acknowledging the gracious and courtly kindness of his consent to write " a few words of preface." From one of Sir Donald's letters the following extract is made : *' Your father . . . was one of my most esteemed friends, and it is indeed well that his life-work and that of other Kildonan men, who so materially aided in the opening up of the great North -West, should be given to the public, and it is certainly appropriate this should be done by one so fully conversant with the whole subject as yourself." IN REAL UI'E. 15 fing CHAPTER 11. HENESIS OF THE SELKIRK COLONY. ;€ % With the laain historical facts leading; to the ])lantinir of a colony from the north of Scotland in the midst of the American continent, it is rea- sonable to assume that the most of our readers are fairly familiar, and it is not the j)urpose of these papers to ^o at lenf^th or in detail into such matters. But the drift of events may be noted in order that the .actual situation of the colonists may be understood l)efore we pass into the study of personal life and immediate sur- soundings in their new home, " The Governor and Company of Adventurers trading into Hud- son's Bay," or, as they were better known, the Hudson's Bay Company, had from about the year 1()70 practically controlled the whole of America west of the great lakes. We are in the habit 1() THE SELKIRK SETTLERS now of commiHeniting the Frencli king who, adopting the sneer of Voltaire, spoke of the cession of Canada to England as the surrender of " a few hundred arpents of snow," l)ut there have been a great many people besides Louis XV. who looked upon the territory which to-day furnishes the finest wheat in the world, exports the cattle from a thousand plains, and holds the richest mines yet discovered, as a region att'ord- ing a sphere of operations only to the hunter and the trapper. But the Earl of Selkirk, who at the opening of this century practically controlled the Hudson's Bay Company, though he doubtless saw in this great region the field for an immensely profitable fur trade, seems to have had a more prescient understanding of its future possibilities. Moreover, all we have heard of the man from those who knew him leads us to believe that he was actuated by higher than self- ish motives for himself or his company, when, at great personal cost, he brought to the banks of the Red River the company of his fellow-country- men known to history as the " Selkirk settlers." It is true that at the time there was keen and AV /:eal life. 17 t K' :'% *S"'^ soinotinios Moody rivalry between the Hudson's Hay and the North-Wost companies for the trade of the retrion, and that the Earl's move in brin^in<^ out the first <^roup of colonists as abase of supply in food and as laborers for his company mi^ht have been looked on as hif^hly prudent and strate^^ie ; but in re<(ard to the main body of the settlers, evidence is not lackin<^^ to show that the Earl, whose name was held in sacred memory by them, and who spent and was spent in ettbrts to establish them in a new land, was <,n-eatly impelled to this by seein<^ these unhappy people turned out of their homes in Scotland that their holdings mi^ht be turned into sheep tracts. The ((Uestion, " Is not a man better than a sheep ? " is supposed to admit of but one answer amongst the generality of mankind, but the landlord of that day and place had a different view, and hence the man had to give way and make room for the more profitable sheep. Back there first of all began the sufferings and pri- vations of these people. Doubtless their life had been strenuous and struggling enough under a system of landlordism which w^e have never (T 18 7"//A' SELKIRK SETTLERS known on tliese free prairies ; but up to tliat point it was the best they knew, and wlien the fiat went forth that tlvey imist vacate tluur homes and holdin^jjs, many a lieart- rending scene can be imagined. I liave often heard my fatlier speak of the cruel evictions lie witnessed as a boy, when whole families w^ere turned out on the strath with their poor " {^ear " to witness tlie l)urnin^of their dearly beloved, if lnnnble,c;ibin. To such a persecuted people Lord Selkirk came as a rescuing angel, an<l though, as we have said, he may have had some regard to the advantage of his company, and thougli some promises he made to the settlers he did not fulfil, owing to many entanglements in the conflicts for the fur trade, yet on the whole his treatment of the colonists and his efforts on their behalf were such tliat, when he returned with ruined health an<l shattered fortune to die in Scotland, in 1820, his loss was deeply mourned by the settlers, whose descendants have delighted in giving his name to points and places all over the West. The work of bringing the colonists to the Red River by way of Hudson's Bay was not L\ REAL I. UK. 19 1(3 tho siin|»l(' task it would !»(> in tins day of " ocoan trrevliounds," and even when tlicy were landed on the shores of the hay it seemed as if tlu'ii' trouhh's were deei)enin<^ darklv. Of the hand of colonists that left Scotland in 1813, wt' are told in Beirir's Historv, "that dnrint' the voya<jjc fevei" hrokc out ainon<^st the passen<^ers, and when they arrived at their destination the party of Scotch eniij^^rants were in a dreadful condition an<l utterly untit to undertake the overland journey to Red River. Many of thein died hefore and after landin<^, and the reniaindei' were so worn out with sickness that they wei'o ohli^ed to remain at the hay for the whole of the followin^^ winter. From all accounts it would appear that tlu'se poor peoj)le wci'e not properly cared for by the a<;cnts of Lord Selkirk, and that the food and shelter provided were totally inade(|uatc for their comfort or protec- tion during the severities of the weather. After spending a most miserable winter at Church Hill and York Factory, the survivors started in the summer of 1814 for Red River, arrivin"- there early in the autun)n. A few days after 20 rUE SELKIRK SETTLERS I their arrival they were put in possession of lanrl, but tliere were neither iini)leiiients to till the soil nor a sutHciency of food to ]»e had. Added to this, the settlement was on the eve of a series of disturbances which shortly afterwards resulted in the destruction of the colony by the servants of th(^ Noith-West Company." The protectorate exercised over the settlers l)y the Hudson's Bay Company naturally excited the enmity of their rivals, the \orth-West (\)m- I)any, a^^ainst the unfortunate colonists. The following extract from a letter written by ]\Ir. Alexander McDonnell, who was one of the leading spirits in the latter company a^ the time, will show the position of affairs, Mr. McDonnell, writing to his brother-in-law, McCiillivray, says : " Nothing but the complete downfall of the colony by fair means or foul will satisfy some — a most desirable object if it can be etiected. So here is at tliem with all my lieart and energy." That the leading spirits of the North- West Company did go " at them with all their heart and energy" the immediate sei^uel proves, for IN REAL f./FF. 21 anfl, tlic Mod of u {ir<ls till' Tlio tlio the om- Tho by • the . the ill tlir iK'Xt year they broke the colony up and Hcutterecl the settlers to the four winds. Some of the persecuted peo])h' entered the service of the; Hudson's liay Company, some went out for tlie winter to .lack lliver on Lake Winnipej^, while a considerahle numher of families were de})orted hy the North-West (Company to east- ern Canada, where their descendants are found to-day at many points. Almost coincident with this break in<^ u}) of the colony on the lle<l River, another party of emigrants (amongst whom was my father, then a lad of sixteen) left Scotland for this place, setting sail early in June, 1.S15, in pitiful (but to them, perhaps, l)lissful) ignoi'- ance of what had hapjiened their predecessors and of what awaite(l themselves on their arri\'al. !'' 22 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS CHAPTER III. s/rrrLixa rxntJii in Frier LTiEfi. As we cloHod our hist chapter wo huw a \nAy of colonists leaviiii^ tlu> north ol' Scotland in tlio carl}' suiinncr of 1815 to join tlie colony on the i'ai" \iiiy\ liiver. However strenuous and <lifH- cult their life may have been, and however much the struo-^le to ^"ain a livelihood was accentuated l»y the oppressive landlordism of the time, it i*e<|uires no vivid ima<;ination to see how sadly they took leave of their heloved stratli. No people in the world are more stron<jjly attached to their native land tlian the Scotch, and as their vessel, outward bound, carried these emi- grants beyond sio-jit of tlie heath-clad liills, many a oroup such as the painter of " Locliaber no more " furnishes us, mi^-ht be seen on its deck with wistful eyes <^azin<jj back toward the coast- j;^ 1 /A' REM. 1. 1 IE. 23 t line <>r «l«'ar oM Seotlaiul. IWit as the days wore oil in that loM<r vova<jr their cxpcctatioii would tui'ii also to thr rit w land to which they were iioiiiii'. Sonn> of their kindred liad j^one hefort* tlu-ni as if to j)i'ej)are the way, and those coining now looked I'ljrward to tindin;;" their I'riends in IVee antl liappy homes in the <'olony on a new cnntiiient. With these IViends thev nii«ji»t well hojM- to tind a elieei fnl resting-place, renewing old memories, untd they, too, C(»uhl liave homes of theii' own in the I'rei; land of tlie West. lint alas ! how cruelly disappointing to them would the scene of I'uined homes and desolate hearthstones he, and liow dejidly a blow would he given to all their hopes when they would find their friends scattered whither not even the few I'emaining could tell ! It is inipossible to let the nn'nd dwell ui)on scenes like these, and then on the ultimate ti-iumph of these people, without thinking of the splendi<l valor of the Scottish hlood and of the supreme faith in God which carried them through to the end. As they landed on the bleak shores of Hudson's Hay, and after a weary Journey stood amidst 24 TffE SELKIRK SETTLERS the snow and ice of November on tlie spot where they had expected to find tlie homes of their friends, but wliere they foun<l only a scene of desolation, the very north wind with freezing breath might seem to howl across the bleak plains the old (question of infidelity, " Where is now thy God ? " But these people had been from their childhood indoctrinated in a great creed whose central truth was the sovereignty of God, and in many a solitar}^ place the wilder- ness heard from their hearts the old psalm of the fathers : i . '' Why art thou then cast down, my soul, What should discourage theo ( And why with vexing tlioughts art tliou Dis(|uieted in nie i Still trust in God : for Him to praise Good cause I yet shall have ; He of my countenance is the health, My God who doth me save." Lest it might be supposed that the s^-mpathies of the present writer would lead him to picture too highly the struggles of the colonists, let us hear what Begg, a recent writer, in his "History IN REAL LIFE. I.i % I "4 i)i tlie North- West," says at this point : "In- stead of tindino- a thriving- settlement tlie}' found only ruins ; but, worse than all, there was no food to feed them, and they had to con- tinue their journey, in company with those who had returned from Jack River, in cold and snow to Pend)ina, 70 miles farther. Here they set to work to erect rude huts to shelter themselves, but in a month or so they had to leave these temporary houses and journey to the plains in the hope of securing food, there being a scarcity of provisions at Pembina, and no means of pro- curing any near that place. These unfortunate people had to journey a distance of 150 miles, and as they were ill-provided with suitable clothes to protect their persons from the cold they suftere<l dreadfully. Meeting with a party of hunters they remained with them during the rest of the winter, perfoi'ming such work as they were capable of doing, in I'eturn for which they were fed and sheltered till spring, when they returned to Pembina, and from thence descended the Red Riser to Fort Douglas. Thev then began to cultivate the soil, and ttrr*- 26 77//i SELKIRK SETTLERS i ('Voi'ythin<^ scuined propitious to tlii'ir becoininn- coini'ortably settled in tlieir new home, wlien, on tlie lOtli of June, ISUi, an event liap])ene(l whicli (jnce more brouolit descjlation to tlie colony," That event was a collision ])etween armed forces of the Hudson's Bay and North- West conjpanies at Seven Oaks, in Kildonan. The actual collision was partly the result of an accident, but it ended in the killinu* of Governor Scmple, of the former company, and the killing- or woundino- of twenty -one out of twenty-seven men who accompanied him. This gave the North-West Company for a time the upper hand, and the colonists had to abandon their homes (juce more, and go out to Jack River, where they suffered great hardships during the winter. Next spring, however, the tables were turned, and the Hudson's Bay Company got control, Lord Selkirk, on his way back from Montreal with his hired De Meuron soMiers, capturing Fort William and afterwards Fort Douglas from his rivals. Things had become so bad between these companies that the Impe- rial Government interfered by connnissioners, IN REAL LIFE. 27 and the .settltTH oiiee more returned to tlieir holdinii-s. Law-suits innuinerabli' ensued l)e- tween the two companies until after the deatli A Lord Selkii-k (wh(j liad always steadfastly opposed union), when a coalition was formed, tlie Hudson's Bay Company ultimately absorb- ini»: the others and continuiuLT unto this dav. Durinii" all this fi<»;htin<'' between the rival com- panies the colonists endure<l constant hardships, and experienced one set-back after another. The historian bef(jre (juoted tells us that " in the winter of 1817 they were forced to ^o again to Pembina owino- to scarcity of food, but on their return to tlie settlement in the sprino- manaijfed to sow a considerable area ot land with wheat, etc. The sununer was favorable, and the helds soon assumed a promisinf,^ appear- ance, but on the ISth of Julv, 1S18, tlie sky suddenly bee;ime dai'kened by clou<ls of o-rass- hoppers, and as the;5([ descended on the eai'th in dense swarms tliey destroyed every green thing before them. The settlers manage 1 to save a little grain, but not a vegetable was left in the gardens." It seemed as if evervthinn' was ooinii' i\\ 28 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS i i ap^ainst them, and onco more tlioy went for refuge to l^cinbina during the winter. In the .spring of 1819 tliey returned and sowed again, ])ut the young grasslioppers in swarms hegan to appear, and devoured everytliing on the fields and plains. Again they were forced to go to Pembina, and so continued the struggle, subsist- ing on the products of the chase, until three years afterwards, when they gained sufficient from their fields to keep th<ini from fear of starvation. This was in 1822, or alxjut ten years after the first of them had arri\ed in the country. Things went fairly well to the year 1826, when a winter of great severity and unusual depth of snow led to great distress in the country. The plain hunters, who depended nearly altogether on the buffalo for food supply, were the chief sufferers, for the storms dro'.e the buffalo beyond reach and killed the horses of the hunters. Tlie settlers did all they could to relieve their brethren on the plains, but in the spring they themselves suffered the severest loss in their history. The sudden thaw of the iireat snow and ice .iccunmlation caused the IN REAL LIFE. 20 Rod River to overflow its bjinks and become a rairintr torrent of wide extent. The settlers barely escap(Ml with their lives and some ol' tlieir stock, but their liouses and stables were swept awjiy in total wreckage into Lake Winni- ])e^. Yet, when th(^ Hood went down, these undaunted men eanie ])ack and bft^^an all over aiTfiiii '• «ind thouii'li we have liatl floods and Ljrass- hoppers, and civil disturbances, since that time the colony was never .'i<^ain uprooted. When wt' read over tliis luirried liistorv ol" disastrous years, we feel that the most sympathetic and vivid imati^ination cannot conceive the sufl'erin<:^s these settlers endured, and we know that those who passed tlirou^di the experiences found no lan<i;ua^e adecpiate to the task of describin<:j it. 1 n mv fath lers ciosniiT years ne was oiten visi h )ftei ited by toui'ists from the Old Country, seekin<;' infor- mation as to the early days, an<l I recall the attempts he made to depict the scenes, concern - inf^ which he could say, with the hero (jf Vir<^n*l, " Qaoimm magna i)afH fiilJ' I can see him yet, a strongly-lmilt, massive figure, in the old wooden chair, on the aiMu of whieli he brouirht |!fi»7r 30 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS I flown liis liand now and a^ain to r^ive Celtic emphasis to liis wonls. I can hear the story- flow on till he felt the inadec^uacy of lant^uage as recollections rushed upon him, and then he would stop short, saying, "It's no use talking, gentlemen, I can't tell you half of it ; but I will say one thing, and that is that no people in the worM hut the Scotch could have done it," and the last party of Englishmen that came to the old farm-house, seeing his earnestness, applauded him with unseltish enthusiasm. Whether my father was unduly partial to his ow^n race or not ma^i^ be a matter of opinion, but there can be no two opinions as to the difficulties these colonists triumphantly battled with, and if you seek their monument, look around you on the religious and educational as well as the material greatnerjs of the North -West. J < REAL LI IK. 81 CHAPTER IV. SETT LEI) AXD AT WO UK. im The <j^i'oat Hood of 182G passed over, and the colonists at once returned to tlieir farms on tlie Red River, and settled down to the ret^ular routine of work. The real purpose of these papers can now be fairly entered upon, for it was only after this flood that the settlers were able to cease from the runnini^ fiiiht for life and take up in some steatly way the business of colonizin<^ and the purpose of livin<^. To write on the lif(^ they were to lead till the advent of new conditions changed it, to write on this life as seen from the inner side, is to make an eflbrt at reproducing on paper scenes \o\\\f since van- ished, and no more to be reproduced in actuality on the globe. There is no spot left upon our continent, at least, where, for well-nigh half a J frpr 32 THE SELKIRK SETTLORS century, a colony could remain practically un- touched by the rest of the world, unvexed by its artificial troubles, aiid unspoiled by its mad racing after material greatness. Speaking to his class one day as to the way in which men find that some one has ])receded them every- where, a keenly humorous professor, for illus- tration, said that, " thanks to the enterprise of the modern advertiser, the legends of the patent medicine man now haunted us in the deepest solitudes of nature;" and that is but one way of saying that in our time we cannot, if we would, isolate ourselves from a telephoning, telegraph- ing, railway and steamshij) travelling humanity. It was far otherwise in the (hiys of the Selkirk Colony, for I have often heard my father (who left Scotland, as we have said, in the opening of June, 1815) say that they never heard of the battle of Waterloo until late in the following autumn. Think of the solitariness such a state- ment implied, f-n* while the cannonade of " that loud Sabbath " might have almost made itself felt through vibrant air across the globe, a con- siderable number of British subjects remained IN REAL LIFE. 33 for months uncertain as to liow the loii^ strui^- (rle on the battle-ground of Europe had even- tuated, and unaware of the fact that Napoleon, the trouhler of the world's peace, was inunured (^n a lonely rock safely guarded by the restless sea. From that date onward for nearly fifty long years that little band of Highlanders remained shut out from tlie rest of the world, till through freer communication with " the States " to the south, and " Canada " to the east, the tide of a larger life rolled up against us, and prepared the way for our entry, " not with- out tumult," into Confederation. It shall be our effort in the few chapters tliat follow^ to give those interested an idea of what these hermit settlers were doing in the meantime. They chose to settle along the banks of the Red River on narrow farms (the general width being ten chains frontage on the river), running back at right angles from it on the prairie. These farms extended back two miles, as a free- hold, with an additional two miles as a " hay privilege." Ultimately, these "outer two miles" were given in fee simple to the owner of the J 34 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS frontajifo, except in caHcs where others hy actual occui)atioii had secured possession of them in part, in wliicli case the frontage owner n()t an e(|uivalent elsewhere. Tliese ten-cliain lots, owned })y the head of the family, were fre- quently subdivided amon<; the sons, so that when Ontario people, accustomed to scjuare farms, began to come amongst us, they were greatly amused at our " farming on lanes," and pointed out the disadvantage of having to go to work on the cultivated plots (" parks," we called them) at the outlying ends of these ri ver strips. But there was " nuich method in the madness " of Ion; narrow farms, or, to be plainer, there were many good reasons to justify that plan of settlement. To begin with, the settlers built along the river banks for convenience in obtain- ing water, which, at that date, before there were any cities along its banks, was more drinkable than it is now. Outside the swamps and sloughs the river was practically the oidy re- liable source of steady water supply. Wells were little known, suction pumps were unheard of, and I remember that a " chain-and-wheel " AV REAL LIFE. 35 |mni|>, wliicli my fatlnT imported from "tlu? Statrs," wtis one of the stivun wondcrH even in my time. Tlicn, a<^ain, settlement hy the river had food as well as water supply in view, foe, unvexed by the present-day hindrances to fisli- culture in rivers, lar^a; numhersof fish, from the " ^^old-eye " to the stur^aum, ottered a provision by no means to be despised. As to the narrow- ness of the farms, it can readily be seen that the colonists settled close together for nuitual de- fence in troublous times, and for the advanta<,^es of social life, as well as for church and school facilities: and if the sons, settlin<; on subdivi- sions, seemed lacking in ambition, it must be remembered that to go outside the settlement in the early days was to exile oneself absolutely beyond the pale of these advantages. From the beginning of settlement, farming was the principal occupation of the colonists. Buffalo-hunting, fishing, etc., were incidents in the life of somewhat rare occurrence thereafter. Some of the younger men did follow the buffalo, but for the most part the delicacies of buffalo meat, moose nose, beaver tail, etc., were obtained .Sf) THE SELKIRK SETTLERS by tradiii^jj with the liall'-ltrccils ami riuliaiis. who had no taste for a^nicultnrc l)tit had an un(|U('iK'liahh' lovi; Tor tlif phiins and rivers. 'I'he I'acihtieH lor rarniin^, as may ))(3 suppoHcd, wen; not ol* tht^ Ixist. The iniph'Mients (spade and h(M! for ])hintin<^ and sowing) were ahnost as ])riinitive as tliose which nii^lit have been used by the " ^rand old <,'anh'ner," but vvith tlu'se I>y dint of «;reat toil tlie settlers soon manajj^ed to make; a liveliliood. The reapint,^ was done with thi; sickle and the cradle. Then the at]je of machinery came in, and the lioe ^ave place to the old woocU'n plough, whose oaken mould-board was pointed with such an iron attachment as Tubal Cain miLrht liave made "in the days wl •th Tl le br ous lien eartn was younj. sickh; and cradle gave way to th(; first cum reaper, which had to be jnit in and out of ^jear by lifting the machine witli a fence rail and moving the big wheel into or out of contact with tlu; smaller cogged one. i^ehind the plat- form of this reaper a stand was placed for the able-bodied man who "' forked ofi'" the m-aiu in sheaves as it fell, and to do this with ? //V REAL LIFE. 37 iT;4;iiIarity iiiid iiratin'ss in licavy ci'np.s tostt'd <'vrii (he ln'jiwMicst Ili<^dihm(l('r ol' tliciii all. Tlic sjiiiu' cuinl)i"()U.s macliiiic was used for a tiiiK' ill lin\'-('uttinir, and it IS sax I III (1 ic cas*' ol' tli<' first one iinportnl, lest tlic evident desi;^n of tlie maker should l>e interl'enMl with, and lest any dislocation ol' the pai-ts nii^^dit \m\ attended with serious results, the ])latrorin was retained and the hay " I'oiked ofl"' in the same manner as wheat. However, the euttin;^^ of the wheat was only tin; he^^innin;;' of a series ol' ditficidt processes throu<^h which finally liread was n^ached. The thn'shinif was carried on at first with flails, with the use of Lfreat "fans" and winnowin<»' riddles to sepai'ate the wheat fnjm the chaff', a process which enal)les us tu understand the scriptural fie-ures of the fan and the threshin<(- floor. Shortly after this era of flails the twodiorse tread-mill was introduced, hy means of which threshin^^ 1 )ecame a comnar atively easy and luieventful process, the only occasional excitement beine- caused when one of the horses, f^njwine- wearied with tlie monotony, wcjuld vary proceediiiJ^^s by 38 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS breaking his halter-line and turning a somer- sault on the fannin<^ mill, or wh^jn the band would fly off the drive-wheel, and the horses would be forced to run until the ever-useful and ever-ready fence rail introduced below the treads brought matters to a standstill. To get the wheat into flour was the next difficulty. First of all the " quern " was used, two flat stones (the upper and the nether) — the upper having a handle which turned it upon the wheat and brought the grain into some sem- blance of flour, not over white, but in the best degree a health-producing and dj'-spepsia- obliteratino; substance. We do not know how far oriental customs prevailed, but it was in view of such a scene as might be witnessed at these " q".erns " that our Lord spoke of identity of occupation and diversity of character in the words, " Two women shall be grinding at the mill ; the one shall be taken and the other left." In time the Hudson's Bay Company sent out an expert, and built a windmill at Point Doug- lass, in working at which Hugh Poison, one of the settlers, took such careful observation of the IN REAL LIFE. SO process tliat ho ufterwcards built one for Iiimself and several others at different points in the settlement. These mills did fair work, but when a long calm prevailed there was always danger of a flour famine, unless by borrowing from one another the supply could be eked out until the wind arose. Next in order came water-mills, of which we remember Inkster's, Matheson's and Tait's. Hydraulic engineering was not in a very advanced stage ; there was generally trouble with the dam, and except during freshets that were strong enough to drive the wheel, the mill-ponds fell into the somewhat ignominious use of vessels in which to wash the sheep before shearing. But the era of steam was at hand, and if the early settlers grew strong on brown bread with a marked tendency to blackness, their descen- dants were to have the doubtful advantages of the maximum of whiteness with the mini- nmm of nourishment from wheat whose life is crushed out by modern methods and the exactions of the " five o'clock tea." \\h t !■ 40 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS CHAPTER V. UORSE-BAIHINQ AND HAY MAKING. Western politicians are proverbially fruitful of phrases, but one of them outdid all the rest when he introduced in tlie Speech from the Throne here a year ago the phrase " diversified agriculture." In the language of the common people, the phrase was intended to mean " mixed farming " and was used to describe farming in which not only the tilling of the soil but the raising of stock finds a place. Viewed in that light the farming of the old settlers was "diver- sified agriculture," and in that, as in many other respects, the principle on which they worked is a valuable one to people who desire to make a good living on western prairies. In the days before the incoming of machinery the colonists raised horses principally to supply the IN REAL IJFE. 41 buffalo liuntei's, and also to serve their own amusement and love of simple sport. Splendid horses they were, as I remember them, imported from Eno'land an«l acclimatized in process of further breeding, swifi of foot, stron*; of mus- cle, deep-chested and niettlesome. The prices realized for buffalo runners in the early days were not so large as might be expected, and I often heard that, when my father sold a famous running horse for the sum of £14, it was said of him by some that " he sold his con- science " when he asked such an extravagant amount. It was customary when the plain hunters came in and encamped on the prairies around Fort Garry, for the settlers to take up such horses as t ley had to sell. These were tested with the racers of the camp, and if the results were satisfactory a sale readily fol- lowed. A brother of mine once took up a hijrse of a strain noted for ffeetness to the camp of an old hunter named Acapot, and though horse and rider were without special training he easily outran the horse put up by the hunters. A sale for £30 immediately followed, my brother i 42 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS KCcarce realizing liow good a horse he had. After the sale, however, tlie old hunter told my Ijrother that his horse had outrun the most famous run- ner in the camp, and though shortly afterwards Acapot retired to live near Prince Albert, no amount of money ever tempted him to part with the horse he had purchased on such easy (though to us extravagant) lorms. The " Queen's Birthday " was the great holi- day of the year (no people were more loyal), and as soon as we could ride each of us had a horse (often without a saddle) to go up to the fort and witness the contests of speed between the best horses of the settlers and the plain hunters. The present day gambling of the race- course was practically unknown, and for the most part the races were honestly run with utilitarian ends in view for the speediest animal. Besides horses the settlers had cattle and sheep on the farm. Oxen were largely used in the operations of the farm down to a recent date, and for pur- poses of hay and wood hauling were " hitched " sincfle in the Red River cart or sled, both of which in their primitive state were made entirely IN REAL LIFE. 4:^ of wood. Sheep were useful in the extreme as attordin^^ clothiu[^ in " hodden g'*f'y. " The pro- cesses from sheep-shearincf to the liome-nuide suit were slow and primitive in the light of modern machinery, but the article was <40od, as we know from personal experience. The other day the writer got word of what remained of his grandfather's sword in the old house of one of the settlers who died some years ago. This settler (Angus Poison Xyy name) was a famous worker in wood, and amongst other things was the chief maker of spinning wheels in the colony. The broken fragment of the sword-hilt that remains tells an elocjuent and pathetic story. Doubtless the old soldier (who w^as one of the survivors of the Black Hole of Calcutta, and who died at Kildonan, aged 107) prized greatly the sword he had carried on the hot plains of India, but to help his fellow-colon- ists he gave it to the maker of spinning wheels that the brass basket-hilt might be broken and used in their construction. The old weaver's loom, too, was a familiar iigure, and the sight of the weaver throwing the Hying shuttle with its i I I ^! ■ r 44 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS croHsint^ threads has always enhir^ed bel'oru me, as the years liave <^rown, into the vision of Him wlio sits at tlie " roaring loom of time " and weaves with warp and woof tlie wel) of liuman life. Since then I have always understood more clearly and entered more fully into the words of the; oreat hynni : " With mercy Jind with jiulgineiit My wt'l) of tiiiiu He wove, Aiiik uye tlie dews of sorrow Wore histred with his love, I'll bless tlie hand that <j;uided, I'll bless the heart that planned, When throi^ed where glory dwelleth In Inimanuers land." After the weaving or the cloth came the "full- inf^," done in primitive but vigorous style by the kicking of it by barefooted boys, who found it one of the amusements of the winter evenings ; though it is a tribute to the hardiness of High- land blood to say that after this heated exercise the moccasin was put on and the way home in the snow and bitter night was taken scathless. Speaking of winter-night occupation for the AY REAL LIFE. 45 l)oys, I may say tliat anotl.er one was "knock- ing Imrley," as we called it, preparatory to its use in soup-making. A large block liewn from the tree was hollowed out in a somewhat circu- lar form. This was partly filled with barley, which we took turns in pounding with a long- headed wooden mallet, while some one more daring than the rest kept turning the grain with a stick or long-handled spoon, to the innni- nent and constant risk of his fingers. When the grain was thus well hulled, it wa'5 winnowed and ready for soup, compared with which some of the spiced transparencies which now })ass l)y the name would be tame and insipid. In the summer time the farm stock of which we have spoken ran wild on the prairies, horses especially being out of sight for months at a time ; and we recall as a great constitution- builder days spent in the saddle in search of the wandering bands. In the long winter, of course, they must be housed and fed, hence " making hay while the sun shone " in sunnner was a great reality to us all. Hay-cutting began on the 20tli (afterwards 25th) July, and the scene 4f) THE SELKIRK SETTLERS of op(3ratioi.:s was tho wild prairit*. The outer two iiiilcH of each river fronta^^e ))el(jnge(l, for liay purposes, to the fronta^^e owner up to a certain date, hut for the most part cuttini,^ was done on prairie tliat was free as air to every- body. The best hay meadows were located in ^ood time before the above date, and on the nii^ht before people were camped all around tliem. Each one knew pretty well just the spot he was goin^ to strike next morninf^, and if more than one had their eyes on the same spot, it became the property of the one who reached there first and made a " circle " by cutting around the field lie wished to claim. There was sometimes (in dry years when hay was scarce) ^reat rivalry, and we have seen camps all ready to start on the stroke of midnight, and actually starting to mark out circles in a thunderstorm. We have seen a circle entered by another than the one who made it, but it was in the case of someone who had tried to circle the whole prairie for himself, and in such case the unwrit- ten law of the camp said that it served him right. There was rarely any trouble t'- speak JX REAL I. HE 47 of, and wo look ])aek to tlic camp on the ])rairio witli its many tents like a wliite villa^^^c as a most (k'lii^litt'ul and licalth-iiivinir cxpcricnco. Practical ioke.s were connnon en(ju<'h, it is true. We have known some of the boys to stampede a band of horses throui^h the camp, to the alarm and even the possible dan<;er of peaceful sleep- ers in the tents. In the matter of selectinir a piece of hay -ground we have known a man who located a choice spot the night before, come into camp and turn his cart With the shafts pointing in the direction to which he was to go next morning, but some wag, suspecting the reason, got up under cover of the (hirkness and turned the cart so as to point exactly in the opposite way. In that case, though the joke was enjoyed by the camp, the party on whom it was played was not allowed to suffer. IMutual helpfulness v/as constant, and when prairie fires swept the plain and consumed the stacks of a settler, all the rest helped him out. I remember well when this happened once in the case of an uncle of mine, how the neighbors all joined together and put a hundred cart-loads into his 48 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS larmyaivl next day. Tlio ridos home on Satur- day evening aft<'r tin; week's absence were aiuv^nt^st the most exeitin*^ and pleasinj^ expe- rienc<'s of hay-making time. Sometimes twenty or thirty liorsemen were tof|;ether, mostly on youn;^ horses, and races liere and there were much in fashion. As we liave observed, saddles were not ])lentiful, but tliey were improvised for the occasion. B^'Iat bundk's of hay, witli cord- line Htirru})s, were considered ^ood, thout^h we have known a case in which a feint to apply a match necessitated the speedy removal of such a saddle — a task, however, not ditHcult, as no ^irth was used. In the winter the stock, well housed, were fed from the hay-stacks, out of which the hay was pulled with a wooden hook. When the hand " hay-knife " was introduced from the States, it was an exceedingly popular instrument, and tlie few that could be had made the round of t)ie neigliborhood,till it could not well be known to whom they belonged. It was alluding to this perhaps that my uncle (from whom we had borrowed his) one day coming over the snow- IN REAL I.U'IL 41) drifts into our luiy-yanl, said facotiouHly to my V)rother, " Hoy Sandy, would you mind lcttinf( me liavo the; loan of my hay-knifp?" Hut Sandy was not to bf (Uitdonc, an<l completely floored my uncle l»y coolly replying, " All ri^ht, uncle, but be sure to brinj^ it back as soon as you are done with it." 50 THE SELKIRK SETILEKS CHAI'TKR VI. SOCIAL LIFE. The wintcrH on tlw lied River are uiulcniaMy lon;^, tli()U<jfh UH land cultivation has extended (so Home state as the reason) they are less severe tlian formerly, l^ut when people can point to the maj^niticenee oi' the root and cereal crops as resultant in somi; measure from the depth to which the ;L(roiind freezes in the winter time, they are not <lispoHed to (juarrel with the course of nature. In the early days th(i problem of liow to while away the lon<^ winter, when little work beyond the feeding of stock had to bo done, was nuich in evidence, but <;enerally found solution. The m^arness of the houses to one another was conducive to nuich freedom in the interchange of social visits, and stands out in marked contrast to the isolation of people on IN REAL 1. 1 IE, 51 )0 scjiian' t'ju'nis in tlir tliiiily itopulatrd ilisti'icts. " Tho latch-Htrin;; w'jiH alwayH on tlio ()Utsi<l«>," and as for locks thcv wen* in-acticallv as niucli • I • unknown as in Acadia, " liomr of the Iiappy," ol' wlioso poo])l(' it is said : " Neither locks had thoy to their doors, nor burs to their windows ; But their dwellings were open as dny and the hearts of the owners." Hospitality was unbounded, and as no casto or color lines wore drawn, not only was the wlnt<' friend made welcome, but tli" belated Indian, still far from liis wigwam, was sure of a ^-ood supper and the warm corner by the chinu'ey as a couch for his innocent sleep. Such thin|.|s as calling cards were unheard of, and exciipt in tin; eveninjjj time even knockin*^ at the door was dispensed with by near nei<^hbors. The older people delighted principally in lon<^' talks to- gether, ofttimes doubtless of the dano-ers they had passed. Let^^ends of their ancestors far and near, with the strufj^gles of their Fatherland for civil and religious freedom, were recounted proudly and thankfully, and as I, the youngest II 52 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS child of the family, was ^jjeuerally in the " old folks " t^roiip when these tales were told, there was " poured into my veins a Scottish prejudice which shall never cease to boil alonj[^ there till the flood-^ates of life shut in eternal rest." I suppose Eutychus found Paul's sermon too lono; because he took no interest in the sul)ject, but it was a fa.rew(jll sermcjii, and the last words between people of kindred heart never seem to ])e enou<j^h. Hence it was that these old people never seemed in a huriy to })art, and that the way in which they lingered in saying good-night sometimes amused the younger folks who could not enter into their feelings. It is but little more than ten years gone by since my father bowed his grey head to meet the coming of the Lord, and on the day of his funeral one of the few survivors of that early band stovod with me beside thec'c.ffin an<l looked upon that worn face marked Jiniidf t its ma>sive strength with the deep lines of suffering and toil. And as he stood there, that aged man (Donald Murray by name), with tears streaming down his owm deeply furrowed cheeks, said, indicating the l)ody of [ IN REAL LIFE, 53 my fatlier, " It's seventy years since Robert and I have been friends to<^ether." Threescore years and ten ! \v'hat a retrospect ! and across wliat a ru«4'^ed plain of hard experience I I knew then in the li^lit of that stateinent how tliose lono- talks and slow leave-takings were to wear in my memory henceforth a halo of sacredness, as I would see those two, who had clung together during the long years and fought their trials with the splendid va)'-; of their race and a ncjble faith in God, standinjj; where the ways parted down near the sunset of life. Amidst such .scenes as these the old sur- vivors of the colony waited for the end undis- turbed by the newer conditions ])eginning to oljtain around them. The younger people had in the winter time their social gatherings juid their litei'ary and other meetings. The c[uestion of dancing is nuich discussed in the abstract, and we are not going to enter upon a discussion here, but the dancing of those days in a simple and pure state of society was practically as much an outlet for the physical exuberance as were the games of I ; iS if^ 54 TJ/i: SELKIRK SETTLERS ball, etc., in the summer, and no more harmful morally so far as we know. Round djinces had not come in, and the reels, strathspeys, etc., were a test of pliysical endurance as well as of skill, A special dance known as the " Red River jig " we have never seen any one but a native of the countiy do to perfection. The music was always the violin played to the vigorous accompaniment of the foot, and we have known men carry with them an extra pair of moccasins, so that when one pair was worn out on the rough floor they miglit not be at <a loss. New Year's Day calling was much in vogue, and without any impartiality every house in the settlement was visited. It was a great day for the Indians, who in bands, flriiig oft' their shot-guns occasionally, went from house to house, and were feasted to a dangerous degree. The New Year's dinner was a feature \\\ every house, and the skilled makers of plum-pudding disphiyed their talent with- out stint. In the evening many social parties were held as a close to a busy day. The "oft-told tale" was doubtless repeated in effective ways, for "marrying and < ving in ,«;»w<^ /N REAL LIFE, 55 marriage " became tlie order of many a day. All efibrtH at "surprise weddings" were rendered futile by the necessity of publishing the banns in church, and the parties had all the celebrity that this public disclosure of their plans could give them. Invitations were given verbally from house to house, generally by the bride's father. Marriages were as a rule celebrated in the church, and all the guests drove there often to the accompaniment of shot-gun salutes of honor by the way. This drive to and fro was "par excellence the time for displaying fast horses, whose decking in gay ribb(jns called " wedding- favors," took up more attention than the adorn- ment of the person. The speediest horses were secured for such occasions. We have known men go long distances to secure some noted horse, and consternation reigned when it leaked out that some one had secured so and so's '• Charlie " or " Tom " for the wedding. On the way home speeding could be indulged in to any extent, with one well-defined limitation, namely, that no one was to pass the bridal party on pain of social ostracism. On the Sabbath succeedino- ,<»w<^ J 1 K ! 1 |i li 1 56 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS tlie wedding the " kirking " took place, the bridal party and " best young people " in all their wedding bravery of millinery driving together with their gaily decked hoi'.ses to cliurch and there occupying a special pew. When the groom brought his bride to his ances- tral mansion, a " home wedding " was given with practically the same amount of social function as had attended the ceremony of the marriage. As a general thing the dowry was not large when the people were poor, but in addition to the out- fitting such as the custom required a few choice cows were driven over to the bridegroom's farm as a nucleus for future wealth in flocks and herds. IiV REAL LIFE 67 CHAPTER VII. SOME PECULIAR LOCAL CUSTOMS. There are some phases of experience that can be looked at under the headinj^ of the social life, though they might possibly be considered with ecjual appropriateness in connection with the religious services oi the time, and such may be the case with the matters touched upon in this chapter. The wide-reaching import of the sacrament of Baptism we sometimes think is not sufficiently understood in some (juarters in our time, and this may be due somewhat to the lack of solemnity noticeable in its celebration. In the early dnys the settlers on tlie Red River, in their social life and their service of worship, made nuich of it. Parents, except in cases of sickness, always presented their children for baptism in the church at the reguhir forenoon 58 THE SELKIRK SETTLEKS II I service. Of course, tliere was a certain aiuount ul' preparation ])erorehan(l tliat partook some- wliat oi* the frivolities oi* this worhl. The " christeiiini'- robe" Ttlie Wijrd survived from a former ecclesiastic connection) was a matter of much C(jncern,and any specially (^ood oni;, hand- embroidered, etc., was passed around from one family to another in the succeedin<^- (renerations. It was well understood that tlie sacrament meant much more than the <;ivinj^ of a name to the child ; nevertheless the nanie was not by any means without great importance. The practice of naming the child "after " some one was nnich in vogue, and led sometimes to dilennnas and difficulties. For instance, when two or more near relatives on either side were to be con- sidered, the parents were in serious straits lest they should give offence to the one or the other, 'i'he difficulty had to be faced, and the danger braved, or else the child had to be encumbered with a string of names such as only foreign princes can boast, and we have even known an irate friend or relative mollified by the promise, that on a similar occasion in the future he or IN REAL IJFE. 50 she should not bo overlooked. Anotlier of tlie ditficnlties resulting' from the now (fortunately) almost obsolete custom of "njimini;" was not only the duplic{itin<^ but the (|undruplicutin<;' of names in the one neij^hborhood. 'I'he people <;()t over that part of tlie trouble by introducing- the use of " nick-names," derived either from personal '^ .acteristics or by pretixino- or atlix- ing some ancestral family name. This was well enough for the people themselves who knew locally " Black Sandy " and " Red Sandy," but since people at a distance did not know these line shades of distinction, the primitive post- office or the mail-carrier confronted " confusion worse confounded" when a letter came addressed to a name owned by half a dozen ditt'erent people in the parish. The difficulty was o-ener- ally solved by some one of the name openin<;* it, and if it was not for him he passed it on till the right party was reached. A " cliristening feast " often followed the " bapteezment of the bairn " (on a week-day of course), and to this the numerous relatives and friends were asked. If we pass over now to the sadder side of life. 60 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS % !'■ we sliall find tlierc also many customs peculiar to those early times. Death then, as now, chiimed its victinis (once or twice in trreat num- bers, when in the dry years or the locust days epidemics swept the colony), and many prac- tices strange to later years gathered around tlie dying and the dead. To begin with, there was, without doubt, amongst the people of that time, a certain dread of the supernatural, which gave rise to what was well-nigh, in some case.^, super- stition. Certain signs and portents as to the approach of death were not without direst sig- nificance to many ; and the same state of mind and feeling likely led to the custom of holding- wakes being persevered in down to a recent date. There may have been extravagances in these directions, but does not a vivid sense of the supernatural imply, where the Bible is held, a corresponding depth in religious life ? And is not the effort to eliminate the supernatural, so noticeable in our day, and to substitute for it the blind working of impersonal force, accountable for nmch of the irreverence and even the scepti- cism prevalent amongst us i Only let men feel, IN REAL LIFE. 61 like the Pliilippian jailer, that the Power whose hand is shakin;^^ the foundations is the innnanent (}od, and the (|uestion, " What nnist we do to he saved ? " will come up from hearts that, awak- ened to a sense of sin, will not rest till they find the Cross, and will follow tlie li^dit and leading of Christ into valorous deeds for dlod and for humanity. If there was a suspicion of super- stition in the religion of those early people, it was l)en;otten of a profound reverence for the Almijjjhty and a deep sense of the mysteries of infinite things. Like the Puritan and the Covenanter, thc^y were always listeninj^ for the voice of God, and feared it with a noble dread that made them fearless of anything finite and earth-born. When the last rites over the dead were to be observed, invitations to the funeral were given personally from house to house by some near relative of the person deceased, and often people felt much hurt if they did not receive a direct invitation, without which they did not always feel themselves at liberty to attend. On the day of the funeral refreshments were served in 62 THE Shll.KIRK SETTLERS il the shape ol' hn'ad, cake, cheese, and often liquoi s. It was tlie eustoni of the time, and even tlio'iirh in m''i«'nd tliere was not niucli consumed, the absence of refreshments in the case of people of nu^jins would have been severely connnented on, not only as a breach of hospitality, but even as a maik of injliflerence to the event and to the memory of tin? departed. Wt; have known of ])eopl(^ <2jivin<j^ din^ctions as to the conduct of their own funerals in other ways, but not in reijrard to refreshments, except in one case. An old man, a retired Hudson's bay Company otHcer, on his death-bed sent for my father to entrust to him the management of his funeral in this re(jfard, and fearing lest the reputation for lavish liospitality for which he had been noted would sutler through the parsimony of relatives, gave explicit instructions as to the (juantity of each article of food and drink to be procured from the Hudson's Bay store at the cost of the estate, and even urged my father to exactness in seeinii: these orders carried out, with suggestions of post-mortem visitation in case of default. /.\- REAL I. HE, oa Is The funeral s( rvicM* at the lioiise was gener- ally of considerable len<^th. Several psalms were sun^^ in lon^^ and mournful cadence, very impressivi! in its way : passa<^'es of Scripture for the comfoi't of thr hereaved and the admonition of all wei'e i-ead and exj)ounded, besides a sermon or address. One thini^ especi- ally noticeable in these services was the absenct^ f)f undeserved eulo^ry, and while, in ren;ard to any who had been careless of reli<,dous thin;4S, no limitations were ever ])Ut, expressly or by im]ilication, on the pardonini^ <^i'ace of (Jod, no countenance was given to the idea of salvation for the persistently impenitent. The religion this im|)lies may have been of a stern type, but it was the religion of people who felt tliat God could not beli(3 His attributes, and must be just as well as loving. Hearses were unknown in those days, and any proposal to put the coffin into any conveyance to be taken to the chui'chyard would have l)een looked upon as a mark of disrejiect to the memory of the departed. Hence the coffin, shrouded, w^as invariably borne (ju a bier by K M G4 /7//f SELk'/NK SK'rr/.Iih'S \ *■ four UM'U, who wi'Vii vvVmvvA hy otiier four every few iniiiute.s. Tlio order of proceH.sion WJiH jiH follows: 'I'lu' iiiini.stcn', aeeoiupHnied hy one of tln^ eMers, led the way : then the hearers with the coffin, followed hy the chief mourners, after whom came all who attended, marching in twos. Four were always walkin<^^ heside the liearers, and at the word " Relief," spoken at intervals hy the elder in front, they took the places of the hearers, who dropped out and fell into the rear. Exc(!pt in cases wliere the dis- tance to the njraveyjird was j^reat, none liad to carry more than once or twice. In order to show how much tliese early settlers were op- posed to liaving the dead home to burial in any other way than that described, it is remembered that on the death of Donald Ross, a Hudson's Bay factor, they refused to allow the question of distance to interfere with their paying this tribute of respect to his memory, and so carried his body over eighteen miles, from Little Britain to St. John's. At the slow pace they would travel, this took a whole long day, and at noon they halted where a cart with provisions met IN REAL LIFE. 65 them. Here tlioy liad dinner, and Jifjain took up the line of nuircli. There may be a niediuni in .such thinfij^s, hut as a Holeiun and respectrul tribute to the memory of the dead, such a funeral stands out strongly marked by com- parison with the confused hurry of people who seem to have no time even to bury the dead with decency. 5 66 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS CHAPTER VIII. CIVIL AN!) COMMEIiCIAL LIFE. PI To write a cliapter on the civil and commercial life of the old settlers would be easy if it could be made purely anecdotal : but if we are to make it more historical, the task is not so simple. For it must be remembered that the science and art of statecraft had made but little progress on the banks of the Red River, and that laws and the administration (jf them were primitive enough in those early days. So far as civil government was concerned, as soori as they had secured dominance over all rivals, the Hudson's Bay Company was the local representati\e and embodiment of British law in the colony. The local governor of that company, assisted by a council of representative men from the English and French speaking residents (the full title of IN REAL LIFE. 67 lie M ill lot' the conr;l;ive beiiifjj "The Council of Assiniboia "), enacted such laws as the circumstances de- manded, and cases left unprovided for in these local enactments were covered by the common law as embodied in British jurisprudence. The criminal law, of course, was that of Englan<l. and in all respects as soon as sufhcient ma- chinery was available, the practice and proce- dure would be that of the courts in the old land. Most of the real property laws were of local enactment to suit the peculiar circumstances. A (]jreat deal of the le^-islation reads stran<^ely enough now, as it was specially a])plicable to the surroundinf^s of the time. Foi' instance, wlieri horses by the hundred were feedinf^ on the prairie, it was ([uite a common thin^ for any one to catch, (me and ride him or drive him till he found his own, or till he reached his destination, if not too far away. At first, on the principle of mutual helpfulness, this prac- tice was little resented bv the owner unless the horse was abused ; but when the practice became too (general, and as some not of the colonist class began to have altogether too 68 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS i>* '£ loose an idea about meitm and tuum in the liorso lin«\ strin^^cnt laws were enacted. For a time it was a settled decision of the courts that the owner of a horse, finding him in the hands of another, could not only have such a one proceeded a^^ainst, but could seize and hold the saddle or harness, etc., tliat was upon the horse at the time. The administration of law, when once a real system of administration was established, rested with a judge or recorder, assisted fre(|uently by associated magistrates, and sometimes these magistrates (appointed from amongst the settlers) held court them- selves. Serious otlences were not frecpient, and those that did come before the magistrates were disposed of in a summary way. In the quarrels that sometimes broke out I have seen my father, who was one of the magistrates, holding court in the house, and when he con- cluded that the parties were about e(jually to blame, he compelled them to advance from the sides of the room to the centre and shake hands in the presence of the court, as a declaration of their intention to live peaceably I ! I IN REAL LIFE. 69 h from that tiini3 I'orwanl. 1 suppose tluit any })reach of tlie peace afterwards would have been look(Ml on as contempt of court and i)unished accordingly : hence the people who had a high veneration for authority generally kept the compact. In cases wdiere threats ha<l been made one against the other, the general practice was to cause the offender " to bind himself over to keep the peace," on the severest pains and penalties if he broke it. I remendjer the case of a merchant in whose employ, while on a freighting trip to St. Cloud, a young half-breed died of fever. The father of the lad held that the merchant was responsible for the death, and after partaking freely of stimulant visited the merchant's store with a hay-fork, <letermined to put the slayer of his son to death. The merchant felt decidedly uncomfortable at being- hunted around the country by a half-drunken man with a weapon of that kind, and escaping through the back door tied to my father's house and invoked the protection of law against the man-slayer. Not long afterwards the half-breed arrived on horseback with his hay-fork. He was € 70 T/7E SELKIRK SETTLERS ^ivon a l)C(i in the kitchen, while the merchant passed a perhaps somewhat anxious night in another part of the liouse ; but in the moi'ning, wlien the half-breed was sober, court was held, and after beini; shown liow soundless his view was, he was bound over to keep the peace under severe penalties, and that settled it. Nowadays, ()]• then, if enforced strictly, the criminal law would not deal so gently with a man who was disposed to prowl after innocent parties with nuirderous intent and a fork ; but a wholesome dread of the court, if any breach of the law were committed, made the plan etiective. Cases did sometimes occur in which the officers of the law found themselves comparatively helpless against crowds, but these were of rare occurrence and were mostly t result of some cond)ination for popular right as, for instance, where it was demanded tl o trade be free to all, instead of being monopoli/ed by companies. When we turn to the connuercial life of the settlei's an e([ually primitivt; state of things meets us. For many years, of course, the Hudson's Bay Company controlled the trade IN REAL LIFE. 71 af the legion, they alone liaving the right to ti'affic in furs, skins, etc., and they also supply- inff the settlers with such articles as they needed, in i-eturn for such ])roduc(^ as they could I'aise. So far as their treatment of the settlers in this retjard is concerned — and we may say in all other ways — nothiii<j;; could have been fairer or more liberal. Instead of takin<»; a g'reat quantity of pro<luce from one, and none from another, the company appoi'tioned out what they needed amonost the settlers, and thus oave all a fitrhtinii' chance for life. The prices paid for produce were good, as high as eight shillings a bushel being sometimes paid for wheat. In regard to the fur and other trade all efforts to preserve a monopoly proved unavail- ing, and after several liard-fought legal cases, and after several popular demonstrations against monopoly, the principle of trade free to all was generally admitted and acted upon. Im})orta- tions of goods were made chiefly from Kngland hence ay V colony, and from the United States by means of cart trains. Goods from Kiiiiland were landed %^ 70 77/E SELk'I/^k' smri.ERS 1 at York Factory, and were brouglit tlionce by row-boats, manned by from eiglit to fourteen men, who sat on benches and pulled with great long oars, moi'e like beams than modern sculls. No (me who knew anything about the extreme toil of that weary life can fail in seeing the marvellous beauty of Whittier's " Red River Voyageui'," and feeling how true it is to real life. We can see the bent form, the bronzed face and calloused hand of the boatman as we read the lines : m " Drearily blows the north- wind From the laud of ice and snow ; The eyes that look are weary, And heavy the hands that row. " We can see the tired face light up as he hears the sound of the bell from the cathedral opposite the fort to which he is coming : *' The voyageur smiles as he listens To the sound that grows apace, Well he knows the vesper ringing Of the bells of St. Boniface. hV REAL LIFE. 7.S " The b«'lla of the Human mission, That call from their turrets twain To the boatman on the river, To the hunter on the plain. " And we can all, amidst the tu;r and strain of life, join in the noble alle^roiy at the close: " Even so in our UKtrtal journey The hitter north winds blow, And thus upon life's Red River Our hearts as oarsmen row, " And when the Angel of Shadow Rests his feet on wave and shore, And our eyes grow dim with watching, And our hearts faint at the oar, " Happy is he who heareth The signal of his release, In the bells of the Holy City, The chimes of eternal peace." Not all the voyacreurs could have understood the lofty strain of the poet, though they all knew the toil of the life and the joy of arriving home. Burly and able-bodied fellows were these oarsmen of the half-blood, capable of enduring 74 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS I I almost .any jiiiiount of labor and fatigue. Light- hearted and phiyful as kittens were they also, and at niglit, despite the hihors of tlie (hiy, they often inchiliiCi' in \}v :r vild danecs l>v the weird eanip-fires al<ri«.; I he sliorc to tlie ninsie of tlie evei'-ruady viv i, I-* 'fore they started for York, and aftei* tliey eanie l»aek, these boatinim liad special festivities. My father liad a consi(h'rahle innidirr of I»oats on the Hne, and amongst tlie scenes of childhood pho- tographed on my mind I can see the huge camp- iires on the river ])ank, and 1 can hear the wild shouts of these semi-savagC! men as they cele- brated their outaoini^ or their incoming-- The other outlet for the development of com- mercial enterprise amongst these early settlers was trade with the United States to the south. Either to bi'iniji: mjods for themselves or for the Hudson's Bay Company, or other merchants, the settlers went every sunnner with trains of oxen and carts to St. Paul or St. Cloud, Minnesota, and at so nuich a hundred-weiiiht freiti'htecl the merchandise thence to Fort Garry. It was a long and toilsome trip, and at times when the IN REAL LIFE. 75 warlike Sioux, retl-lian<le(l from MinnoHota massacres, were hanging on their trail, it was a (lant£erous one as well. At such times onlv the fact of their being well armed and strong in numbers, prevented the (^\tincti()n of the frciglit- ers at tlie hands of tlu^ Indians. Conniieree of the kind describee] called for more physic'd endurance and skill in crijssing sw.-imps an<i rivers than for the keen, aggressive »Mlueati«ni now re(piir<Ml, and hence many who had 1 U little learning in lettei's came to considerable wealth and prominence as iVeighters. Many of the half-bK)od were amongst the latter, and out of their prominence as freighters, together with their dearth of education, some amusing incidents took place. On one occasion a innnber of these freighters were staying (as the wealthier of them did) ai" a first-class liotel in St. Paul, and of course availed themselves of all the advantan'cs of the read inj*- room, (^te. One of them, quite a well-to do man, but unable to read, was not to be outdone in the presence of strangers, and following the example of others picked up a newspaper, but unfortunately g(jt '■%'' THE SELKIRK SETTLERS it npsidr; (l(j\vii. Witli tliL' p<'ip(n* in this position luH eye caught tlie advertisjMiient of sonic steain- sliip company, and ol' (course got tlio cut of the \'t)ssel inverted. Here was sometliing ha thought he was (juite safe in discussing, for lie made sure he could understand a picture, and so he held it up and boldly announced to those around him that the column contained the account of " a dreadful shipwreck." Th(; rest may be imag- ined. Another, who kept a kind of refitting emporium on the way, was accustomed, in the absence of ability to read or write, to keep his accounts in a book by rough pictures, drawing a horse, or harness, or cu,ic-axle, etc., as required by the transaction, and also some distinctive feature of the man to whom he sold them. On one occasion he was closing accounts with a settler after the season's work, and gave a cheese amonest the thing's he had furnished to the settler. The settler denied having received a cheese, but the " merchant " produced his book showing the drawing. The settler still denied, but looking up some memoranda he had kept, told the " merchant " that he had not received IN REAL LIFE. 77 a cheese, hut had purchased a ^riudstcuio with which lie was not charj^ed. Tlic "merchant" at once remembered the ti'ansaction, and coollv remarked tliat he liad intended the drawin<^ for a grindstone, but " had forgotten to put tlie liole in it." The delightfully accommodating proce- dure thai could change a cheese intoa grindstone by the addition of a pencil-mark is worthy of a destructive BiV)lical critic who can make a Hebrew letter mean anything his hypothesis demands by changing its vowel point. And thus in a primitive manner of civil and commercial life did the early settlers live, near the spot where the " bull's-eye " city of Canada now stands, with all the equipment of civic organization, and with such a tnide as V)elongs to a place midway along the greatest railway on the round globe. 78 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS CHAPTER IX. El) UCA TIOXA L FA CIL I TIES. li • From the (lays of John Knox and his parisli school, Scottisli i)ooi)k' liavu been noted for their interest in education and their intense desii j to secure for themselves and their children the priceless boon of mental training. The colony on the Red River would naturally be unable for some years, amid the strugj:^le for existence, to ^ive nuich scope to this phase of their national character, but from an early date they availed themselves of the school established by the Anfiflican Church at St. John's. It was not until 1849 that the Scottish settlers had means sufficient to organize a school district of their own. The first teacher w^as John Inkster, brother of the present sheriff at Winnipeg, and the school was begun in the dwelling-house of IX KEAL I.IfE. 79 t-o of John F'lctt, OIK? of \\\(\ Hi'ttk-rs. Tlu' .school, of course, whh supportjMl hy vohmtary contrihu- tions, vjiryin<^ accoi'<liii<^ to the incuns of the people. The amount pai<l for the teacher's salary averaocMJ ahout Ji^loO a year, an<l the caretaki!»<^ of the school was done hy the pupils, who took turns at s\vee])in«;- and li;jfhtin^' the tires. Text-hooks wer<' not innnerous. After the tdenientary readin<^ hooks were mastered, reading and spellin*^ exercises from tlu? l)ihle were ])rescribed, to<;(!ther with the systematic study of the Shorter C^itechism. In the wi'itin^^ exercise copy lines were set hy the teacher in home-made copy-ljooks, and a can; was bestowed upon this part of the work which makes the M'ritin<^ of men of the "old school" look liki; " copperplate " beside much of oiu' present day scriV)blin<^^ In arithmetic the one text-book was in the hands of the teacher, who "set" the (|Uestions for t^e pupils on slates (thick as a board and without frames) or on the ])rimiti\(' wooden blackboanl, wliere the writin^^ was done with ungainly lumps of chalk. I'lie children sat on long wooden benches without backs, and 80 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS •«, (I 1! ' I.; I i. the classes always stood for recitation of the lesson. The practice of " goin^ up " was fol- lowed, and as it was a great honor to be "head " and much disgrace to be " tail," solid work was done. Spelling was especially a field of conflict, and in the rivalry for first place the class must have revolved before tho teaclier with the be- wildering changeal)leness of a kaleidoscope. In the matter of arithmetic, as we have said, the teacher "set" the problem, or read it out to be taken down, and the first pupil done had to show the slate with the completed work. Then fol- lowed the clattering of pencils like the sound of runaway horses on a pavement, and we have seen the face of the teacher in imminent danger of disfigurement from the rush of frameless slates to catch his eve. The matter of selectinfj a teacher was sometimes done at a public meet- ing, but generally by trustees chogen at such meeting from amongst the settlers. Certificated teachers were, of course, unheard of, and besides oral examinations attended by the whole district, the matter of the success or failure of a teacher was decided by the inspection and report of the /.V REAL LIFE, SI |ict, her trustees aforesaid. As tliese trustees wei'e for the most part " plain, ))lniit Tiieii," whose own advantaixes liad been liniiti'd and whose "dialect" was more or less att'eeted l»y (Jae-lic, Salteanx, Cree and Frencli inlluences, tlie lot of the teacher was not always a happy one. Wlicn Inkst(n' was teachinij;; in '4!), the trustees came in to ins})ect, an<l one of them o-avc to the leadinf:^^ class in the school the word "pekilar " to spell. It had never been heard of up to that time, and so proved a " poser " for the whole class from head to foot, whereupon the trustee ^rew some- what indignant and threatened to dismiss the teacher whose leadint^ class could not spell "pekilar." The teacher, however, asked to see the word, and saved his official head by pointin^r out that it was pronounced "peculiar," which latter word was trivnnphantly spelled by the class, who thus vindicated the scholarly attain- ments of their teacher. Shortly after the school was bet^ain in '49, a log building was erected on the Frog Plain (pro- perty granted by Lord Selkirk for church and school purposes), which continued to do duty till 6 S2 TI{E SIH.KIRK Sl-:ri I.IiRS some fiftA'cii years iif'tcrwanls, wlicii a new stono buil(lin<j; was erected under ilie super\ isioii oi' tlie Ivev. .I.-niies Nishet. 'Plie old Iolt l)uildiii'r 1 can I'enieinlter with \\\(\ sliadowv vairiniiess of a boy who was taken to clnirch IVoni infancy ])ast its door-way. I can see in a dim way its walls of loiiiT l<>i:>^ plastered in the chiid\S and white- wasluMl, and overh(\'id the thatche(] and mortar- crowned roof. 1 ha\'e a dim i-ecollection of l)ein«>' within tlie precincts, and of seciiii:- the lon^ benches down the sides of the room, with the I'anious "cu|)l>oard" in whicli the mea^'re scliool snp])lies \\ere kept, as wcJl as the won- derl'id Ll'lobe for tlie i»voi'rai)hv class. I have also an idea that 1 recall (perha}is 1 only heard of it) a meetiniX of the settlers calle(l to <liscuss the advisability <>f building' a lU'W school, and low one o f tl lem, a powei V •ful nwm, Lrave ocular demonstration of the unsoundness of the old one bv drivinu" his a\e to the liandle in one of its best remaininix lo<i-s. Not lonu' after came the 0})enin2^ of the new scliool, a relio-ious exercise, duriiijj: which the children marche<l in tw'os from the old buildino- to the new, siiio-ino-as they went IN REAL l.II'K. S.S iiss in<l liar its the nse, elit soiMc ])S}ilm of <I('^a'(M's. 'I'lic new Ixiildin;^- was <livi(h'<l into two rooms, and it was in tlu> " l)ack room " that Manitoba ( \)1 lent' took shaj)«-in |S7I under l)i'. IJryee. U]) oo this era of the colI(M«;t' th(^ lionor I'oll ol' teachers — sti'oni;' men who ItattkMl witli dithculties and iVom whose ])U))ils (3ame many w1h> ha\e nwuh; their impi'css on tiie Idstoiy ol" the country — is as follows: .h^lni Ink- ster, Ak*xan(k'r Mathc^son, A(kim Maclietli, liector Maclieth, Akixaink'i' lloss, .lames llarju-r, Akwander l*oison and 1), 15. W'himster, some of vvdiom remain to tlie ])resent time, hut the most of wliom liave falk'u asleep. Verily " they rest from their la})ors and their works do follow tliem." Durin^ail these years many of the])Upils of tliese men went to eastern institutions of hi^dier learnin<j^ and took hi;j;'h rank, while the general result of their labors was such that the intelligence and culture of the isolateil colony was a constant surprise to xisitors fi-om the (Uitside world. From the time (jf the Kev. Mr. Black's coming in ISoI (with which we shall deal in another chapter), he gathered out from the school the most cai)ahle an<l ami)itious of the 84 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS hoys, *^ivinj^ tlicni iiistrnctioii in classics, inatlic- inatics and tlu^oloi^y, and tlnis laid tin; i'ounda- tions of Manitolta College, wliicli is simply the outgrowth of that pai'ish school and the ctioi-ts ol" Dr. lilack. On in the sixties the nundter of vounii' men who seemed anxious to !•() on to a hiiiher eilucation than the conni'on schools could give them, hecame so large that tlic mattej- of a collegH' pressed itselF more and more upon the settlers. In ISdl) Mr. I). K Whimstei', a gentle- man of wide experience as a teacher in Ontario, was sent I'oi', and his arrival, marking a new era in the history of the parish school, iinally led to the estaV)lishment of the Manitoha Collei'-e at Kildonan, thougli it was moved to Winnipeg wlien that })lace began to assume the lead in the West as its ])rincipal town. Besides the school, there existed amongst the settlers fi'om an early date literary societies fc^r the discussion of all manner of subjects and for social enjoyment. These societies were ])rimi- tive enough and not without their humorous side. The oVI (|uestion of the comparative use- ful] )0s-' of the liorse and the ox was the one on /A' REAl I.II'E. V 85 which tlio yoiiii^t'i- iiu'iiihers ^^'cnerally cut tlieir (lc});itin<»' tcctli. \V<' J'ciiicnilx'i", too, how one ot* them ill a discussion as to tht; comparativt^ (Icsti'uctivcncss of tire ami water, ciitliusiasti- cally assert('(l the injui'ious superiority of the latter, aii<l cHiK'he(l his ar^-uuieiit hy iiistanciutjf liow tlie flood on the lle<l River had carried their barn down to Lake Winnipeg; and that the tire had never touched it! Recitations in prose and ]X)etry were much in voouc, and special ineetiniis were held sometimes in the scIkjcjIs and sometimes in private houses for their reii- • lition. The old " staii'l-hys " were well to the i'ore, and as hooks were scarce some had to content themselves with one selection, which thev iifave aoain and atjaiH. The staiiinesH and the mannerisms oi' the imitative elocutionist were all wantin<^, hut a ruoL»t'd and forceful (;lo(|Uence was oflni developed in these mini.'i ture lycoums. Not loiii;- ago there a])peai*«d before the Presbytery of Winnipeg- six members (jf the Kildonan cont'ret'ation in the matter of a call to their minister. All these had been trained in those primitive schools and homely 86 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS ])latf()rins, with whatever julditional they could h.^ani ])y further observation and experience. As tliey pi'esented tlieir views in a simple, manly and straightforward way thei'e was dis- tinctly noticeable a rich Havorino- of scriptural pln-ases, a splendid conception of the oneness of the Church, composed tliouj^li it be of many C(moTe<:,alions, a tine ideal of duty, a loyalty to the minister, which caused you to feel that they were sure that he wcjuld obey the liit^h dictates of his own conscit'uce as to his course — and all this witli a natural elocjuence most p; asini^ to hear. Veterans in the court said afterwards that they had never lieard such power and ability evidenced in men of th^nr class — truly a noble tribute to their native industry, to their indomitable perseverance, as well as to those who had been their teachers in the Church and scliool of the earl}' days. J 1 /X REAL LIFE. ST CHAin^ER X. UELUnoUti LIFE. When we write a separate chaptt'i- on tlie religious life of the early settlers, we would not imply that these old people severed the KU—ed from the secular, for never has there been in our land a more conspicuous conseci-ation of the whole sweep of life W\xv\ in their case. One of the strongest points in their theology was their clear conception of the innnanence and sov- ereignty of God : lience they never considered tliemselves beyond His presence or outside His control. When we write a chapter on their religious life, we simply desire to indicate the manner and custom of tlieir religious services as well as to sketch in some degree the story of how they kept the faith during the long years of their isolation. Tt is (piite clear that their 88 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS traiiiino- in Scotland liad been of sucli a kind as to lead them to feel that the exercises of religion must form an inte<^i'al part of life in tlie new land, for they made spc.'cial stipulations befo! they sailed for a minister of their own Churcli, and they arraufred that an elder who accomi)anie(l them should have authority to ba})tize and to marry. From that time on till the day on which John Black, their first minister, was in their midst, nearly forty years after- wards, they never ceased to importune the authorities, civil and ecclesiastical, on the sub- ject of their <jwn Presbyterian creed, and in their alle<^iance to that faith they never once failed or faltered. \Ve are not to infer from the men- tion of this long period without a ministei* of theii" own, that they wei'e without settled services dui'ing all that time. It goes witiiout saying that with such a people the sacred tire of worship would ])e kept bui'ningon family altai's, and that their cottage prayer-meetings would be held : but in addition, the Anglican Church (partly through the enterprise of their Mis- sionary Society, and ])artly because fa\'ored by /.V REAL LI IE. 80 cortain ul' tlio Hudson's Hay autlioritii's) had a minister n])()n tlic t^ronnd as early as l>S20, and of tlic services of this Church the IScotch settlei^s availed themselves. J^ut wlule doint:' «<> these settlers never absolutely oave their adherence to that Church, nor accepted the situation as a t'ultilment oi' tlie promise nunle tlu'm as tu church privi!eo-es. All honcn*, however, oujL;'ht to be ^iven to the Church ol' Kn<^land tor the manner in which thev acc(mimodateil their form ol' service to meet the known opinions of the colonists on such matters. In their reii'ular * worship they omitted largely the use of the Litur<4y and Prayer-book, and the [)salms were sunj>' in the meu'e and tune to wh'*^'* the settlers had been aecustome<l. It has been sai<l bv some that the Anglican Church expected by this course ultin»ately t(j win these people (jver to theii' Church, an<l thus become the sole Protes- tant organization in the counti'V, but we cou Id have no sympathy with tliat view, for sevei'al reasons. To be<4in with, it would l)e clear to any one accpiainted with the nationality and character of the colonists that any such course, 00 Tin: SELKIRK SETTLERS inst(;ii(l ol' wiiiniiiu; tlieiu over, would utU'rly ostran^N' (lirir Hy?n[)allii(3.s. Moreover, the early pastors ol' llie Clmreh of l^iu'lainl, iiieetiui;' the older ])eople in daily converse, \s'onld feel they wei'e innH()va))le as rock in the matter of tlieir cree(l, and that ere the yoimj^ei- ^^cneration ^rew lip there would certainly he a minister of theii" own faith amongst them. IJesides all this, the uniformly kind and j^rateful manner in which the old settU^rs always spoke of the An^'lican cler<^y leads r«s to feel that those early pastoi's were <;'odly men who sought unselfishly to u-uide an<l comfort a she])herdless Hock in the way of the Cross of Clirist. The settlers were not a})t to fori^et tlieir own criH'd, because they were diligent students of its staiuhird theolorrv. The ]il)raries in the old houses, circiilatinn," libraries truly, were not lar<;e but wei<i^lity. liesides the Jiible, the Catecliism and Confession of Faith, there were a few leadinu' ])Ooks of the stron»jjest Puritan iiavor, and these were pored over and afterwards discussed witli the ease that many people seem now abli^ to brino- to ])ear only on current <j;'ossip. People who thus drank from \\ \ /.V REAL T.IFE. 91 tliu fountain -li«'!i(l ^aiiUMl a strcnn^tli which cimbltMl tliem to eoiKiucr tlio difhcultirs oi' their vviNhTHcHs lil'c and hold st«!adl'astly tiic tenets of their own C/hurch with its sini})Ie form of worship. Many an incident niii^lit be recoith'il to show the depth and reality of their relinioiis life, and we relate one in the face of ])resent day views of Sabltath observance. A small party of t'leni who had le'ft their families with scantv supply of fo(jd, and had ;;'()ne out (ju a winte-r butt'alo hunt, were camping (ai(! Saturday ni(^ht alon<;' the Pendjina Mountains. They liad their poor meal of what they l>rought with them, and ;;ave all they could to their faithful ti*ain do<;s. Then before retirin<( to rest under tlie lee of their toboiroans, with the doi^s crouched around them in the snow, they held a prayer-meetin<;' to ask Him for food who fed Israel with manna. When thev awoke three ])utfaloes were in the valley below, but it was not until after another ])rayer-meeting for ouidance as to their course on the Sabbath day that, in view of tlie necessity and the evident providence, one of their number (an elder in the Church) was appointed by the o «, % vs^< IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V // ^/ ^.*^. ^ «^ A Z ^ ^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 l&Ki 12.5 ■^ 1^ 12.2 lb u. gzo ^A '/. /A ♦V^ '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation '4^'i?r^ 33 WEST MAIN STREIT WEBSTER, N.Y. USrO (716) 873-4S03 .^ <\ f^ )l< 02 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS ^■» i^,^ rest to procure for tlio pJirty a present food supply. He approacluMl the Imttaloes vvitliout difficult}', shot one, and though the others remained for a time, as they sometimes will in such a case, he did not shoot a<;ain, holdin<;' that lu' was only justified in taking what was actually necessary- on the Lord's Day. Some people would describe such conduct as extreme, hut that God approves of action true to con-, science as the needle to the pole, is evidenced hy the signal way in which He was with them through all their trials, even unto a peaceful and prosperous old age. We have said that the settlers never ceased to importune the authorities, civil and ecclesias- tical, for a minister of their own faith; and any on(.» who studies the history of the time will see that they sent petition after petition to the Church at home (some of them never received), showered them upon the Ihulson's Bay Com- pany, and incessantly bombarded every promi- nent oHicer of that corporation who visited the settlement with reminders of the promise made them. At last the Church in Scotland referred ' \ I IN REAL LI/'E. O.S ased sias- any seo the tM), (jni- tJini- tlie lade rreil th(; matter to tlic Kev. Dr. Bums, ])astor of Knox Cliiirc'li in Toronto: and Mr. Ballondon, then the local <;overnor of the Hudson's Hav Company, ur^^ed the matter in the same (|uarter about the same time, with the result that Dr. Burns secured the appointme'iit of John Black, a graduate of Knox Colle<(e, then working as a missionarv in Lower Canada. After .some hesi- tation as to his dutv in the matter, Mr. P)lack finally accepted tlie apiujintment, and after a long and arduous j(Mirney, via St. I'aul, Minne- sota, reached Red River in the autunni of 18') I, and on his arrival three hundred of the Scotch settlers severed their nominal connection witli the Church of England and rallied around the young missionary. Physically, mentally an«l spiritually, Mr. (afterwards Dr.) Black was the man for the place. No other than a man of great ph^'sical enchu'ance could have stood the strain of frontier work as lie did for thirty years, and judging from what he was, as I remember him, his compact and strenuous frame gave every indication of his physical strength. Many years after his coming, and when his 04 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS dark locks were plentifully whitened with the snows that never melt, we used to supply him at times with hay for winter use (he always kept a few horses and cows), and when we (I wjis little more than a child helping my brother, or professin<^ to do so) went to deliver the hay, Dr. Black invariably came out from his stud}' and took a hand in unloadinf^ the carts to the stack. My brother always <^ave him the strong- est fork, for he would snap the handle of an ordinary one ; an<l it was my delight to see how the minister would bend the fork-handle, and when he had " landed " an exceptionally heavy load, to hear him say that it was a " noble fork," and that the handle was "good stuff." From the beginning of his ministry he was a man of exceptional mental vigor and of intense spiritual power. With all this he had a vivid imagination and the free use of language, so that his preaching was full of the fire and eloquence so characteristic of the followers of Knox. Like Knox, too, he would sometimes well-nigh " ding the pulpit into blads," for his strong hand could well emphasize upon the /A' REM. LIFi:. 95 boards of the hi^li dcHk the vi<(orous hin^nia^e of liis discourse. His voice was clear, strong and full of resonant force, while his accent, once understood, added a rich flavor to every word. As to the subject-matter of his preach inu^, my whole recollection of it is that above all thing's else the doctrine of the IJlood was made promi- nent, and that his constant aim was to turn sinners from the error of their way, and build up (lu'istians in the most holy faith. There was no ^lossin<( over of sin, no en<leavor to blacken into harndess end)ers the thunder-bolts of God's wrath against inicpiity, and no other hope of salvation held out but that by way of the vicarious C^ross of Christ. Boy as I was, and too little disposed to appreciate their power, I remember especially his connnunion services, and to-day I can see his swaying figure and hear the echoing (piestion, " Who can \y,\y that debt .'*" as in one of them he elaborated the idea of humanity's debt under the law, and the coming of the rescuing Christ to provide for us a ransom. No one could grow up under that ministry without a creed, unless he threw away 06 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS his opportunity and trampled underfoot privi- le<fes of an exceeding greatness ; and however little I may have evidenced benefit received from it at the time, he stood before me as a man whose righteousness I honored, whose memory I revere, and whose influence upon his own and these succeeding days beside the western sun no man with a merely ethical gospel could ever have exerted. 1 *■ iHi i IN REAL LIFE. 97 CHAPTER XL R ELK no US LIFE—ContinuciI. From what we have ah-eady said as to the life and ministry of John Black, those who know the type of character such a ministry is calcu- lated to produce in the people, will be able to imagine this chapter and much more than it can contain, even should they not read it at all. But for many who may not have studied in the religious sphere the history of cause and eftect, let it be written for the honor of the pastor and the people and for the glory of God. When the missionary came, as we have said, the colonists rallied around him loyally, and once the flood of the following year had gone down and possibilities of permanence became clearer, they set about the work of building the stone church that still stands on the edge of the prairie, 08 Tin-: SEI.KIKK SETI l.F.KS i I unlujrt and iinpn'^nahlc a^aiiiHt the warrinjx <>f \\\\> cKmimmiIn. In tin* huiMin;^ ol' that cliurch one* t)!' the most notict^al)!*' tlnnj^.s was tlic absence ol' all adventitious sclicincs lor ])n)vi(lin;;- nu'ans, for the ]HM)|>1(», thou<:;h ])oor in nionc}', luul a niintl to woi'k an«i opcniMl tlu» church free of <lcl)t. Huil(lin«x in those days was no easy or in(»x]icnsivc (ask. The stones had to bo brought across the prairie sonu; fifteen nnles, and v/ere hauled on single sleds with oxen, almost one stone at a time, while all the lumber for floors, roof, pews, etc., ha^l to be sawn by hand ir .e old-fashioned " saw-])it," in which one man above and another below pursued throuj^h th(* livelonir<lav their tedious and laborious task. Yet in due time the church was finished, with walls between two and three feet thick of stone " rou<j^h-casted " on the outside : lon^ pews were made, with a few s<juare ones near the pulpit, the pulpit and precentors desk were set on hi^h, a ixallerv was constructed, and the whole work was of such a thorough if ruti^trod kind that it stands unimpaired to tliis day, except where some alterations have been made. A bell was set /X REM. LIFE • ' t ' ill tlic liij»i» Ht<'(»|)l«', ami tlnTc lor )ill tlu's** ycjirs it liMN ruii^ out its Sal)l)Htli Hunmion.s across tin- ])lnin,aini lias tollc*! Wwrrtiu'wvii ovcrtlu' yoini^' an«l oM wlio lie ))in'i<'(i arouiul tlic cliurcli in the "city ol" tlir «l(%'i(l." Knowiii^^ Hoincthiu^^ ol* tlic r>i^^^o<l strcii^^th and ahiiity of many whose <lust lies there, ami who, had their enviroiniient l)ee!i <IiHerent, mi^ht have made tln'ir influence! felt beyond theii-own circle, I nevc^r stand within the precincts of that (Jod's acre without thitik- in^ on those lines in (iray's " Ele<^y ": " Soino vilbij^e H;in)[)deu wlio witli diiuntless brt-iist The little tyrant of his fields withstood, Some mute inglorious Milton here nmy rest, Some Cromwell jjjuiltlessof his country's V>l(»(>d." To the piMjple whose Ixxlies were l)urie(l the-re from the homes around, reli<(ion was a real and a vital tiling. Thonju^hly schooled in the stand- ards of their Church, the Bible above all was their Hook, and, undisturbed by any critical theories, they believed it as the Word of (iod from the sublime *' In the be^dnnin^ " clear through to the last triumphal acclaim of the 100 THE SELKIRK SEni.l.RS I "A Apocalypso. Ilcnco the liook cntcnMl into tlu», vory HI)ro of their Itcin;;;. Jiinl i^^ave (hem ai» uiil)«'ii(lin<x Htren;jth in lit'(; ami infinite eonil'oi't (hjwn in tlie <leath-slia(h' at the close. In tlu* matter of theii* (.hinvh an<l their nnnister, tliou<^h diH'erences of opinion woulil somtitimes arise, loyalty and <hity had lu'en their ruling ideas, from church attenihince ri;;ht on to .such material sup])ort as tlicy were al)h' to «j^ive. Tlie church services and the ])rayer-m(H'tini,^s were religiously attendeil, and in all kinds of weather and at all seasons the minister was sure of a <;oodly num- ber whenever the time of service came. To the cotta*jje prayer-meetin<jjs, held in the farm-iiouses on the winter nijjjhts by the li<jjht of tallow dips, we have seen men come lon<j^ distances in weather severe enough to make that mode of travel very unpleasant. In their midst John Black stood for all that was true and good, and though the younger people may have felt sometimes that his religion was of a stern type, they knew that lie was sternest of all with himself, and hence he was regarded by all the people of the district with a love and reverence almost unbounded. I* 1 IN AV'.'.// i./rr.. 101 Ah an ('XJiiii]>I(' of his ri^^id hcmsv <»!' duty, wr rccjill once a litrrarv m(j('tiii<r in wliifh sonic (lialo^Xnc was hcintj rcndriuMl, and in tlio course ol' wliieli sonic apostroplic to tlic^ods occurred ; l)u( when it was to l»c rc])catcd Dr. Black said, "Please omit those profane <>\|>ressions " — an incident somewhat disconcerting* to the reciters, but chai'acteristic of a man who felt that homage should be paid to one only the living and true Ciod. As an illustration of the way in which he was reverenced by all, it is worth while to relate another incident, told by one who was present at the time. A social tea-meetino- was in progress in one portion of the settlement, called Little Britain, when a burly half-breed, a man of inunense physical stren<^th and, withal, a noted bully, entered in a mischievous state of intoxi- cation, and be|^an by word and act to make things very unsafe for those with wiiom he came in contact. He was one of those men who become excited almost to madness by litpior, and so all attempts to quiet him oidy made matters worse, and things were becoming serious when some one thought of Dr. Black being next door. He 1 \ i I I 1 1 02 77//1 SE/.K'/Rk' SF/n/J'lh'S wiiH at once Hi'iit lor, and comin^ij up to tlu' Imlly ))iit his hand upon liis .sliouldiT and called liini l>y name. Tlu; man turned fiercely around, hut when he saw the venenihle face of the min- ister ol' Kildonan he sank down with the most pi'ol'use promises that he would he (piiet, and he lve|)t his word. Verily it nuist have remindetl those present ol' the fierce demoniac calmed out of" his violence at the touch and word ol' tin' CMirist. In their reli<jjious life the Kildonan people were not demonstrative, hut the opposite. Reti- cence is chaiacteristic ol' the Scottish nature in any case, and the " hodily exercise " and religious athletics of some present day " evan<;-elistic " methods they «lid not profess to understand. We remember the first " revival " service lield in the old church. Services were heing held in the nei^hhorino- town of \Vinnipe<^, and when request was made by those in char<^e to come to Kil- donan, Dr. Bhick, though not, perhaps, nnich ac(]uainted with the methods to be followed, consented, so as not to stand in the way of pos- sible good to the youn<^ people. The regular IN REAL IJl E. ion Hurvice In tli«^ church was always conduct' X with the utmost deconnn. At the opcninj^ hour the niinistiT, in j^own and hands, ca'nt^ sU>wly up to tlui pulpit, hut I can sm^ tlio liorror and uniazo- nu'ut of tlu! pt'oph' as the " ('van;;(.'Iist " canre up the aisle pulling' off a fur coat and talkinjr vohihly al)out the weatlier, etc., as he went. At one of tlie ineetin;^s some man from Wiiuiipe^, after a few words, called uj)on all who w<"ru Christians to stand up. No one arose, and when a second and a third appeal were in vain, the man turned to the old minister and said some- thing implying that it was strange he had no Christians there after all those years. An old elder present could stand a good deal, but he could not stand anything like a slur on Dr. Black, and so he arose and addressed the speaker in words to this effect : " There are Christians here, but we do not show our religion in that way. We have not been brought up to it, and what is more we do not want it. If you have a u:ood word of truth for us we will be tjlad to hear it, but if you have nothing better to say than asking us to stand uj) you had better sit 104 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS I im down." It is scarcely necessary to say that the method was not followed at subsequent meetings. The elder refewed to in this incident is, in many respects, a type of the character produced under Dr. Black's ministry. He stood by his minister ecjually in all the circle of his work. He faith- fully seconded the minister's efforts in pastoral visitation, and to this day is one of the first to be found at any sick-bed of which he lieai-s. Somewhat brusque in manner and somewhat unpolished in address, people need to know him to appreciate him, but where he is best known he is most loved. At prayer-meetings we have known him differ from a later minister, a young man whose staunch friend he was, on the inter- pretation of a parable (and we are bound to say the elder was right on the point in our view), but no minister who appreciated true worth would resent the opinion of a loving and devoted helper to whom the Bible was the best beloved and the best known of all books. I remember once, in a neighbor's house, assisting a son to place the body of his father in a coffin which this elder had made and brought to the house. bthe ings. lany tider ister lith- oral tto lars. hat ^lim •wn ave mg ier- jay w), •th ed ed >er to ch ie. IN REAL LIFE. 10:> I recall the apparently iiidifiereiit manner in which the eMer acted and spoke as he was direct- ing us, but the members of that family knew well what a bleeding heart he was Jiiding under his brus(iueness, and how, ere he left their humble dwelling, he would lead them in prayer so that the heavens would seem to open above them in their sorrow. 106 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS i I \ I CHAPTER XII. MISSIONARY OUTPOSTS. The Indian Mission at Prince Albert, on the Saskatchewan (where tliere are now several thriving churches) was an overflow from the religious and educational life of Kildonan. In 1861 the Rev. James Nisbet came from Oak- ville, Ontario, to help Dr. Black in the growing work of the West, and after five years in and about the colony, where he is still affection- ately remembered, went 500 miles north-west- ward and founded a mission, to which he gave the name of the Prince Consort. With that mission the old home of the writer was closely connected, for to it there went at that time two sisters and a brother : Mary, the wife of Mr. Nisbet, the missionary; Christina, the wife of John McKay, then the interpreter : and Adam, ■ n:-? IN REAL LIFE. 107 who was to teach the school, together with other relatives and connections. When the whites had settled around Prince Albert, John McKay went farther afield as an Indian missionary, and a few personal recollections of James Nisbot and John McKay may fittingly close the present volume. My earliest recollection of Mr. Nisbet is on the day of my mother's funeral, whicli took place on my fifth birthday, but some scenes of which are indelibly photographed on my memory. I can see yet the old house crowded, and then the long procession that carried out with it the dust of her whose death made a blank in my life, whose greatness I realized, not then, but more and more as the years have flown. My father, who was heart-broken, was not able to go to the churchyard, but as the funeral procession passed out he went down a little way on tlie field to have a last look at the coflfin borne away on the shrouded bier. I can see him returning bent and in tears. With him was Mr. Nisbet, and as they walked Mr. Nisbet took the Scotch plaid he himself wore n ' Ml m if i; 1 1 '' 1 ^1^' fil :|| 1! • 1. 108 T//E SELk'/Rk' SETTLERS (tor it was early winter) and placed it around the stooi)in<r .shoulders ot* my father. Even then it impressed itself on my mind as a thoughtful, kind act, but as I grew in years and knew Mr. Nisbet more intimately, I feel that it was a pre-eminently spontaneous deed, and thoroughly characteristic of one who to the end of his days was a " son of consolation." I next remember him at the carpenter's ])ench, engaged in making the desks for the present Kildonan school, one day on which I was sent for him from his home, failing an elder messenger. I can see him, hatless and coatless, with the beads of perspiration on his brow, doing his own work and directing the other workmen how to follow the ]ilans he had prepared. Next I can remem- ber vaguely (for all these intermittent photo- graphs are not equally distinct) the preparation for the outgoing to the Indian mission, and on the day of the departure I recall seeing my sister, Mrs. Nisbet, in the old home, giving a glass of milk to their eldest born, little more than an infant, with whom they were setting out on a wagon and cyrt journey they knew IN REAL LIFE. 100 bting new not whitlier. There, in tliat Indian mission, Mr. NisV)et toiled, erectinjjj Imildings with his own liands, teaehinfij and preacliin»ij as he liad o])por- tunity, strugf^Hnfr amidst the lit^htsand shadows of a difficult life, till he and his wife returned to my father's house utterly broken down by the strain of their labors, and died there only a few days apart. During the years at Prince Albert they made several trips home, and one winter was spent in Oakville, where his sisters lived, and where he left two of his children at school ; but the journeys across the great plains were more wearing almost than the work at the mission. It would appear from the experience of Mr. Nisbet that the best people in the world are liable to be misunderstood — the servant is not greater than his Lord — for even when his life was being slowly worn away by his missionary toil, certain people, in the press and elsewhere, made attacks on his method of work at the mission. I remember well how heavily this lay upon him, and with what warmth of conscious innocence he publicly and privately defended his course and the action of those associated no THE SELKIRK SETTLERS \M III with him. Next I recall, his coininj^ back to liiy father's house for the last time, both lie and his wife worn out and run down as those who had worked beyon<l their strenf^th and time. They had both been ill before they left Prince Albert, and the long trip of oOO miles across the prairie in the jolting canvas- covered wagons was a trying one even to people who were strong. When they arrived, Mr. Nisbet, though weaker than any one knew, was riding slowly in front on horseback, while his wife \v'as in the wagon just behind. He rode up to the door and dismounted, and I remember well how he tried to engage my father's attention, and stood between him and the wagon when my brother went and carried from it the frail body of my sister, who was scarcely able to put her arms about his neck as he lifted her from that poor l>ed and carried her into the old home to die. For her the end was not long delayed, and after she had lost consciousness I remember how calmly, to outward appearance, her husband waited for the end, counting her feeble pulse- beats with his watch in hand, while all the IX REAL LIFE. Ill while the sword of a <:frt'at sorrow was slowly piereinn^ throu<^]i his heart. When all was over the hiisbaiul rose, and as he and my father stood together I renieiid)er how Mr. Nisbet said, " I liope you all feel that I acted for the best wlien I l)rought Mary back home," and the answer of my father, whose heart had yearned to see her ere he died, n<HMl not be recorded. J^onf^ years before he, too, had stood beside a Mary (that was my mother's name), and had watched the passing of her spirit into the unseen, where his gaze was fixed with a growing home-sickness as the shadows were lengthening around him and the ties (^f earth were being broken one l>y one. Not many days after that Mr. Nisbet gave way before the brief illness that carried his frail life out also. His room was in one end of the big farm-house, and when he fell ill at night no one knew of it till the daybreak, for all had thought that he but needed rest to restore him to full strenirth. In the morning, as he came out to the dining- room, I recall how he told of sufferinii- durini:: the night, and how he, who always looked for 112 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS op])ortunitieH to onforcc tlic teachin*^ of tlie Word, said, "I can understand now what the I'salniist meant when he said, ' My soul waitetli Tor the Lord more than they that watcli for the morninf]^, yea, more than they that watcli for the morninjr.' " A few days later he died of a diphtheritic trouble, which his weakened system could not resist, and in the newly-covered j^rave of his wife his dust was laid to rest. Over them the General Assembly of 1887 erected a granite colunm, such as their relatives, poor in worldly iT'^ods, had never hoped to see, but in the inHneasural)le inHuence they exerted on manv^ whose lives have been consecrated to the service of God, in the noble record of their self- denying lal)ors, and in the enduring work at Prince Albtu't, we see their grandest and divinest monument. Beside Mr. Nisbet, as we look liack along the line of our church histor}'^ in the West, we see the figure of the late Rev. John McKay, at one time the interpreter and general provider at Prince Albert, and latterly the missionary on the Mistawasis Reserve, near Fort C^arleton. IN REAL LIFE, 113 From my earliest childhood I rememher his physical appearance and the characteristics which made him so successful in the Indian work. A powerfully-built man, with great breadth of shoulder and immense depth of chest, muscular and athletic, dark-skinned and raven-haired, with a(juiline nose and piercing black eyes — his whole physical make-up com- mended him to the Indians, who adore physical strength and prowess. Moreover, he was of the half-blood — his father Scotch, his mother a pure Cree — and united in himself the courage and energy of the white with the skill and endurance of the Indian. This made him one of the class whose presence in this country has been invaluable as, standing midway between the white and the red man, they constituted a medium of communication and a guarantee of ^ood faith that led to peaceful solutions of the questions that arose between them. In the case of John McKay himself, every one who is famil- iar with the history of this country knows how he assisted the late Governor Morris in arranging the Indian treaties in the West, and in securing 8 & ( 114 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS i»i < It a peace and j^ood-will tliat would have been impoHsiblc without his help and the help of men of his class. Down to the time of death he retained an unrivalled influence over the Indians, as witnessed by the fact that in 1885, thouj^h the rebellion broke out at Duck Lake, not far from the Reserve, the old chief Mista- wasis not only resisted the incitement of Kiel's runners and remained loyal, but with a picked band of men escorted the missionary's family to Prince Albert, and there offered his services to the Government. When John McKay first went to PrincPi Albert his main duty was to supply the mission with the products of the chase, and since he had been used to the prairie from his childhood, he found this a congenial task. He was an experienced buffalo hunter and a dead shot, though I often heard him express his abhorrence of the way in which the buffalo were slaughtered for the love of gain by hunters, who simply took the tongue and hide of the slain animal. All these qualities, with his in- timate acquaintance with the language and customs of the Indians, gave him unbounded IN REAL LIFE. 11.") control over them in ways which provt'd of f^reat .service in all lines of his work. The possession of courage is always a sure passport to the respect of the Indians, and that John McKay had that courage they were tauj^ht in a j^reat many ways. In the earlier days of Prince Albert, roving bands of strange Indiana used fre<[uently to come to the mission an<l make heavy and peremptory demands for food on the meagre supply, with threats of extermina- tion if they were not satisfied. One springy when preparations were on hand for the sowing season, and the oxen were tie<l in the hay-yard, a large crowd of Indians from a distance came and demanded an ox for a feast. One young animal was given them, but after a while they came Vjack, and indicating .\ certain ox, the choicest and biggest of all, and hence the most prized for the spring work, they re(iuested that he be given them. The demand was re- fused — for to give way there meant, to any one who knows the Indian, a giving way all around — and explanation made that this ox could not be spared. But the Indians " uncoated " their ti(i THE SEI KIKK SET 1 1. 1. KS \V\ ! i ;^MiiiH, Htninj; tiM'ir Imiwh, mihI \vi(li vinlnit ilriiiniisti'Mtioiis (sue)) mm (Im'v calciilah' will IVi^jhlru people). n.'U'I (liey were ^nin;^ lo take the ()\ in aiiv case. McKay reasoned witli (liei n as lon<^ as he eoiild. hut in vain, and when rnrllu'i' parh'V was useless, he steppi'd witliin his door and retinned rifle in hand. Indi('atin;jf a certain post hetween the Indians and the coveted o\. h(> s])ol\e to lluMu as follows: 1 I lave V(»ur lilood ni n»v venis and 3'ou are my hrothers; hut I have also th(» hlood t)!' the whit<', and therel'on* I am more jaiuh it than you are. We nnist have IVxm! here Tor our families, and cannot irive awav all our animals, or wc cainiot si>w our fields. We have always <lone, and will always dt) our hest for you: hut now, 1 have drawn a line at that post ; you know my ritle never misses, and 1 tell you that tlie first man wlu) crosses that line will drop." None of them made the attempt, and from tliat time onward McKay had more influence over them than ever bef ore Si)u>e vears afterwanls, when Prince Albert lu'came larirely a white settlement, he moved AV A'/;.// ///A'. 117 out. f(> llir MistMAVJisiM Krstrvc (Tor liis lirarl, \\i\H in ilir liitliaii woi'In ), whm (M'tlniiird liy prnniMMinii <»f llir AHMi'iiiMy »i iniiiistiT nl' Mir < lOHprl, mill ininiMti'i'nl llirir till liiH ilcatli witli ;^n'M.t success, lie WHS a iialurnl-lMini nrnlnr, ami lia<l all tlir draiiiatic (<I(m|U«'|i<t oI' Mir Iinliari witli tlir lire ami inlmsnu'ss of Mh' (Vlt, Tlic oM cliicl' MistawaHiH was liis sworn I'rinul, and Mic work (lone on the rcscrvi' has on it the Htain|> of endurin;; reality. An incident I heard him relate on his last visit to Kildonan has always seemed to me a striking instanct; of the way in which the psalmody and hymnolo;;y of the Church attests its on«'nesH. Aft«^r th(5 18.sr) rehellion a mnnher of th(^ loyal chiefs, amongst them Mistawasis and his old friend Star HIanket, were taken to the Kast, and were i^reatly impressed with the; evidences of power and ])ro^ress they saw in the haunts of tlu5 white man. On his return, Mistawasis met John McKay at Qu'Appelle, and tliey spent th(i iii^ht to«^ether. Mainly, their talk was on re- ligious WM)rk, and Mistawasis told tluMiiisHionary how they had attended some gi'eat meetinjr and ^^^ 118 I W' \u ? 77//i SELk'/KK SETTLERS afterwards wore iiivitud to a roception in the home ol' one of tlie Christian workers. The chief said there were many ladies and ^Gentle- men present wlio san<r and played on " sin^in^ macliines " (pianos), and that finally they asked him and Star Blanket to sinj^. " I th()u<;lit," said M istawasis, "I should have sunk into the ground for itashfulness, but I said to Star Blanket that we must sin^jj after all their kind- ness to us. 1 told liim we would siuij the church song the missionary taught us, and so we began, but what do you think { I had scarcely begun wlien one of the ladies ran to the singing macliine and began to play, and all the people joined in the same song, but I was leading the whole band. Now what ])uzzles me is how these people there knew the same church song we sing away out on the prairie." The expla- nation the missionary gave, and which greatly delighted the chief, was that Gcxl's children are everywhere a singing people, because their hearts are glad, and that the Si>ng was the 100th psalm which they had leavned in Cree to the I; ;«! the rho tlu- »t," the tjir id- •ch uii )le lie se vo i- 'y :*e h e /A^ /i'i5-//Z /M'/r. 119 oM tune, and which the people in the East had learned in English to the sann^ John McKay died a few yeans since as the r^ult of exposure to the ^reat hardships of his ;^- -n the plains, l>ut Urn inHuence for ^.,o<l lives on anu,n,.st the dusky trihes of the oaskatcliewan.