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WITH INTUOI)(fs F^ s ^^ X M. %'S Entkkkd according to Act of the I'urliainent of Canada, in the year one thousand eight hundred and ninuty-Hcven, by WiLiLiam Bkiuom, at the Department of Agriculture. PR r: FACE. In cHiiiiiioii with uthors wln» h.'ive )>vvu inttTi'stt'd in, ami nmiu'ctiMl with, tho vi'lo|mifnt «»f thu territt tries foniR'rly uink-r the udiiiiiiistratioii of the Iluaiiy, I licanl witli much ])k'asui'e of the intention of my friend, the Uev. K. (J. IMacHeth, M.A., to place <»n record an accomit of the ;^enesis and (k^vehtpment of the Selkirk Settlement in the Ivi'd Kiver Valley. The lonj^er such a work is postponed the more difHcult. must, it \tc to carry out, an;^ress of tlio SuttlfjiuMit vvjis rL'tarded. Tlii'i'i! can l>e no duuht, howevur, that its giJidual «lu- vi-lopnuMit had an ini|M)i-tant lutaring, hotli directly and indirectly, on the i!vents uliich led to the surrender of the Charter of the Hudson Ray ('onij»any, and t«» the ac(|uisition of Uupert's Land liy Canada, throu^^h the Imperial (iovernnient. It has heen the custom to dcserilM! the Hudson Hay Company as an opponent of individual settlement and of colonization. To enter into a controversy on this j)oint is not my purpose, hut it may he proper to state that the condition of attairs at the time in erior and the Rocky Mountains, d<»es not apjK'ar to have heen sutHciently appreciated. Owing ta and the North-West Territttries could not have taken place successfully t<» any extent. Of necessity, also, the importation of the connnodities re(|uired in connection with its agricidtural development would have heen exceptionally expensive, while, on the other hand, the c(»st of transportation lar;,'!' a doniain, or havi- undtTtakrii tlu' const rnrtii>n of railways, without which its dcvi'lojnm'nt could only have been slow and uncertain. It was not till IHJS, cit^ht years after till' transfer, that Winnipeg' first receivi-d rail- way connnunication through tin- I'nited States. Thi'ee or four more years elapsed hefore the completion of the line to Lake Su|»erior, and it was only late in 1885 — sixteen yeai's after the Hudson Bay ('om|»any relin- quished their Charter that the Canadian Pacific Itailway was com|)leted from ocean to ocean, and Manitoba and the North-West Territories were placed in direct and rej^idar railway connnunication with the ditlerent parts of the Dominion. There is no (piestion, also, that the jtolicy of the Hudson Hay Conijtany in reijard to the Indians, and the inttsrcourse which the al»ori<.;ines had Iteen accustomed to with its »»tlicers, made the transfer infinitely easier than would have otherwise been possil)h'. In fact, it may he said that the Hutlson Hay Company, v/hile con.servint^ its own interests, as long as was desira- ble, yet prepared the way for the Dominion, and for the colonization and settlement which is now takinjj; place. The record of the real life of the Selkirk settlers will be especially interesting to the inhabitants of the various I'rovinces of the Dominion, to the early setth'rs in Mani- tol)a and the North- West, an deeds or documents were cttmpleted in such cases, ami no conveyance of the kind was ever (pies- tioned. L(trd Selkirk is repre.senteNAL Fa<'IIJTIKS Paok 57 Tm 7(5 ^^ CIIAITKR X. RKLKilors LiFK «7 CHAPTKR XI. Rklkmouh Life — Continued . (JHAPTKR XII. Missionary Oi'tposts . u: KMi ERRATA Page 83, line 10 — after '• Alexander Ross," read "James A. Murray." Page 100, line IG— after "long distances," read "on horse- back." I'AOK 57 Vut TiiK si<:lkirk si:TTLr:RS 7« IN RHAL lAllL h: J>7 allantyne says, "It is very impoi'tant, you /\ REAL I.II'E. 13 it will a^ree with iiic, th.it tliosu c'lrly days, and the men who llvrd in them, should not he t'or- ^^otten; and you ou;^'ht as I'ar as possihlc, in jus- tice to the hrave men who toiled and l)ore so nnich and so nohly kept the I'aith, to help rescue their nam«'S iVom ohlivion." With this view then before liim, and with th(^ hope ol" writin<^ some chapters on the inner lit'(; of the old settlers and a few character sketches that may be of interest, the writer essays the a(;*reeable but perhaps too and»itious task which the necessities of the case, tlu^ n^juests of fi'iends, and his own desire to be of service in preserving some record of a vanished life seem to lay before his hand. . After writing this chapter and outlining the others, it occurred to me that it would immeas- urably increase the interest and value of the volume if a Preface could be secured from Sir Donald A. Smith, High Commissioner for Canada, who has been so long and honorably connected with the history of this country, and who, moreover, was a personal friend of my father, from whom I have had nuich of fr 14 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS tlie letter and the spirit of the book. I accord- inj^ly wrote to the worthy kni^lit (who, it is needless to say, has not seen this paragraph), and take this opportunity of acknowledging the gracious and courtly kindness of his consent to write " a few words of preface." From one of Sir Donald's letters the following extract is made : *' Your father . . . was one of my most esteemed friends, and it is indeed well that his life-work and that of other Kildonan men, who so materially aided in the opening up of the great North -West, should be given to the public, and it is certainly appropriate this should be done by one so fully conversant with the whole subject as yourself." IN REAL UI'E. 15 fing CHAPTER 11. HENESIS OF THE SELKIRK COLONY. ;€ % With the laain historical facts leading; to the ])lantinir of a colony from the north of Scotland in the midst of the American continent, it is rea- sonable to assume that the most of our readers are fairly familiar, and it is not the j)urpose of these papers to ^o at lenf^th or in detail into such matters. But the drift of events may be noted in order that the .actual situation of the colonists may be understood l)efore we pass into the study of personal life and immediate sur- soundings in their new home, " The Governor and Company of Adventurers trading into Hud- son's Bay," or, as they were better known, the Hudson's Bay Company, had from about the year 1()70 practically controlled the whole of America west of the great lakes. We are in the habit 1() THE SELKIRK SETTLERS now of commiHeniting the Frencli king who, adopting the sneer of Voltaire, spoke of the cession of Canada to England as the surrender of " a few hundred arpents of snow," l)ut there have been a great many people besides Louis XV. who looked upon the territory which to-day furnishes the finest wheat in the world, exports the cattle from a thousand plains, and holds the richest mines yet discovered, as a region att'ord- ing a sphere of operations only to the hunter and the trapper. But the Earl of Selkirk, who at the opening of this century practically controlled the Hudson's Bay Company, though he doubtless saw in this great region the field for an immensely profitable fur trade, seems to have had a more prescient understanding of its future possibilities. Moreover, all we have heard of the man from those who knew him leads us to believe that he was actuated by higher than self- ish motives for himself or his company, when, at great personal cost, he brought to the banks of the Red River the company of his fellow-country- men known to history as the " Selkirk settlers." It is true that at the time there was keen and AV /:eal life. 17 t K' :'% *S"'^ soinotinios Moody rivalry between the Hudson's Hay and the North-Wost companies for the trade of the retrion, and that the Earl's move in brin^in<^ out the first <^roup of colonists as abase of supply in food and as laborers for his company mi^ht have been looked on as hif^hly prudent and strate^^ie ; but in re<(ard to the main body of the settlers, evidence is not lackin<^^ to show that the Earl, whose name was held in sacred memory by them, and who spent and was spent in ettbrts to establish them in a new land, was <,n-eatly impelled to this by seein<^ these unhappy people turned out of their homes in Scotland that their holdings mi^ht be turned into sheep tracts. The ((Uestion, " Is not a man better than a sheep ? " is supposed to admit of but one answer amongst the generality of mankind, but the landlord of that day and place had a different view, and hence the man had to give way and make room for the more profitable sheep. Back there first of all began the sufferings and pri- vations of these people. Doubtless their life had been strenuous and struggling enough under a system of landlordism which w^e have never (T 18 7"//A' SELKIRK SETTLERS known on tliese free prairies ; but up to tliat point it was the best they knew, and wlien the fiat went forth that tlvey imist vacate tluur homes and holdin^jjs, many a lieart- rending scene can be imagined. I liave often heard my fatlier speak of the cruel evictions lie witnessed as a boy, when whole families w^ere turned out on the strath with their poor " {^ear " to witness tlie l)urnin^of their dearly beloved, if lnnnble,c;ibin. To such a persecuted people Lord Selkirk came as a rescuing angel, an in tins day of " ocoan trrevliounds," and even when tlicy were landed on the shores of the hay it seemed as if tlu'ii' trouhh's were deei)enin<^ darklv. Of the hand of colonists that left Scotland in 1813, wt' are told in Beirir's Historv, "that dnrint' the voya north ol' Scotland in tlio carl}' suiinncr of 1815 to join tlie colony on the i'ai" \iiiy\ liiver. However strenuous and r «l«'ar oM Seotlaiul. IWit as the days wore oil in that loM of their kindred liad j^one hefort* tlu-ni as if to j)i'ej)are the way, and those coining now looked I'ljrward to tindin;;" their I'riends in IVee antl liappy homes in the <'olony on a new cnntiiient. With these IViends thev nii«ji»t well hojM- to tind a elieei fnl resting-place, renewing old memories, untd they, too, C(»uhl liave homes of theii' own in the I'rei; land of tlie West. lint alas ! how cruelly disappointing to them would the scene of I'uined homes and desolate hearthstones he, and liow dejidly a blow would he given to all their hopes when they would find their friends scattered whither not even the few I'emaining could tell ! It is inipossible to let the nn'nd dwell ui)on scenes like these, and then on the ultimate ti-iumph of these people, without thinking of the splendi, wliicli my fatlnT imported from "tlu? Statrs," wtis one of the stivun wondcrH even in my time. Tlicn, a<^ain, settlement hy the river had food as well as water supply in view, foe, unvexed by the present-day hindrances to fisli- culture in rivers, lar^a; numhersof fish, from the " ^^old-eye " to the stur^aum, ottered a provision by no means to be despised. As to the narrow- ness of the farms, it can readily be seen that the colonists settled close together for nuitual de- fence in troublous times, and for the advanta<,^es of social life, as well as for church and school facilities: and if the sons, settlin<; on subdivi- sions, seemed lacking in ambition, it must be remembered that to go outside the settlement in the early days was to exile oneself absolutely beyond the pale of these advantages. From the beginning of settlement, farming was the principal occupation of the colonists. Buffalo-hunting, fishing, etc., were incidents in the life of somewhat rare occurrence thereafter. Some of the younger men did follow the buffalo, but for the most part the delicacies of buffalo meat, moose nose, beaver tail, etc., were obtained .Sf) THE SELKIRK SETTLERS by tradiii^jj with the liall'-ltrccils ami riuliaiis. who had no taste for a^nicultnrc l)tit had an un(|U('iK'liahh' lovi; Tor tlif phiins and rivers. 'I'he I'acihtieH lor rarniin^, as may ))(3 suppoHcd, wen; not ol* tht^ Ixist. The iniph'Mients (spade and h(M! for ])hintin<^ and sowing) were ahnost as ])riinitive as tliose which nii^lit have been used by the " ^rand old <,'anh'ner," but vvith tlu'se I>y dint of «;reat toil tlie settlers soon manajj^ed to make; a liveliliood. The reapint,^ was done with thi; sickle and the cradle. Then the at]je of machinery came in, and the lioe ^ave place to the old woocU'n plough, whose oaken mould-board was pointed with such an iron attachment as Tubal Cain miLrht liave made "in the days wl •th Tl le br ous lien eartn was younj. sickh; and cradle gave way to th(; first cum reaper, which had to be jnit in and out of ^jear by lifting the machine witli a fence rail and moving the big wheel into or out of contact with tlu; smaller cogged one. i^ehind the plat- form of this reaper a stand was placed for the able-bodied man who "' forked ofi'" the m-aiu in sheaves as it fell, and to do this with ? //V REAL LIFE. 37 iT;4;iiIarity iiiid iiratin'ss in licavy ci'np.s tostt'd <'vrii (he ln'jiwMicst Ili<^dihm(l('r ol' tliciii all. Tlic sjiiiu' cuinl)i"()U.s macliiiic was used for a tiiiK' ill lin\'-('uttinir, and it IS sax I III (1 ic cas*' ol' tli<' first one iinportnl, lest tlic evident desi;^n of tlie maker should l>e interl'enMl with, and lest any dislocation ol' the pai-ts nii^^dit \m\ attended with serious results, the ])latrorin was retained and the hay " I'oiked ofl"' in the same manner as wheat. However, the euttin;^^ of the wheat was only tin; he^^innin;;' of a series ol' ditficidt processes throu<^h which finally liread was n^ached. The thn'shinif was carried on at first with flails, with the use of Lfreat "fans" and winnowin<»' riddles to sepai'ate the wheat fnjm the chaff', a process which enal)les us tu understand the scriptural fie-ures of the fan and the threshin<(- floor. Shortly after this era of flails the twodiorse tread-mill was introduced, hy means of which threshin^^ 1 )ecame a comnar atively easy and luieventful process, the only occasional excitement beine- caused when one of the horses, f^njwine- wearied with tlie monotony, wcjuld vary proceediiiJ^^s by 38 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS breaking his halter-line and turning a somer- sault on the fannin<^ mill, or wh^jn the band would fly off the drive-wheel, and the horses would be forced to run until the ever-useful and ever-ready fence rail introduced below the treads brought matters to a standstill. To get the wheat into flour was the next difficulty. First of all the " quern " was used, two flat stones (the upper and the nether) — the upper having a handle which turned it upon the wheat and brought the grain into some sem- blance of flour, not over white, but in the best degree a health-producing and dj'-spepsia- obliteratino; substance. We do not know how far oriental customs prevailed, but it was in view of such a scene as might be witnessed at these " q".erns " that our Lord spoke of identity of occupation and diversity of character in the words, " Two women shall be grinding at the mill ; the one shall be taken and the other left." In time the Hudson's Bay Company sent out an expert, and built a windmill at Point Doug- lass, in working at which Hugh Poison, one of the settlers, took such careful observation of the IN REAL LIFE. SO process tliat ho ufterwcards built one for Iiimself and several others at different points in the settlement. These mills did fair work, but when a long calm prevailed there was always danger of a flour famine, unless by borrowing from one another the supply could be eked out until the wind arose. Next in order came water-mills, of which we remember Inkster's, Matheson's and Tait's. Hydraulic engineering was not in a very advanced stage ; there was generally trouble with the dam, and except during freshets that were strong enough to drive the wheel, the mill-ponds fell into the somewhat ignominious use of vessels in which to wash the sheep before shearing. But the era of steam was at hand, and if the early settlers grew strong on brown bread with a marked tendency to blackness, their descen- dants were to have the doubtful advantages of the maximum of whiteness with the mini- nmm of nourishment from wheat whose life is crushed out by modern methods and the exactions of the " five o'clock tea." \\h t !■ 40 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS CHAPTER V. UORSE-BAIHINQ AND HAY MAKING. Western politicians are proverbially fruitful of phrases, but one of them outdid all the rest when he introduced in tlie Speech from the Throne here a year ago the phrase " diversified agriculture." In the language of the common people, the phrase was intended to mean " mixed farming " and was used to describe farming in which not only the tilling of the soil but the raising of stock finds a place. Viewed in that light the farming of the old settlers was "diver- sified agriculture," and in that, as in many other respects, the principle on which they worked is a valuable one to people who desire to make a good living on western prairies. In the days before the incoming of machinery the colonists raised horses principally to supply the IN REAL IJFE. 41 buffalo liuntei's, and also to serve their own amusement and love of simple sport. Splendid horses they were, as I remember them, imported from Eno'land an«l acclimatized in process of further breeding, swifi of foot, stron*; of mus- cle, deep-chested and niettlesome. The prices realized for buffalo runners in the early days were not so large as might be expected, and I often heard that, when my father sold a famous running horse for the sum of £14, it was said of him by some that " he sold his con- science " when he asked such an extravagant amount. It was customary when the plain hunters came in and encamped on the prairies around Fort Garry, for the settlers to take up such horses as t ley had to sell. These were tested with the racers of the camp, and if the results were satisfactory a sale readily fol- lowed. A brother of mine once took up a hijrse of a strain noted for ffeetness to the camp of an old hunter named Acapot, and though horse and rider were without special training he easily outran the horse put up by the hunters. A sale for £30 immediately followed, my brother i 42 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS KCcarce realizing liow good a horse he had. After the sale, however, tlie old hunter told my Ijrother that his horse had outrun the most famous run- ner in the camp, and though shortly afterwards Acapot retired to live near Prince Albert, no amount of money ever tempted him to part with the horse he had purchased on such easy (though to us extravagant) lorms. The " Queen's Birthday " was the great holi- day of the year (no people were more loyal), and as soon as we could ride each of us had a horse (often without a saddle) to go up to the fort and witness the contests of speed between the best horses of the settlers and the plain hunters. The present day gambling of the race- course was practically unknown, and for the most part the races were honestly run with utilitarian ends in view for the speediest animal. Besides horses the settlers had cattle and sheep on the farm. Oxen were largely used in the operations of the farm down to a recent date, and for pur- poses of hay and wood hauling were " hitched " sincfle in the Red River cart or sled, both of which in their primitive state were made entirely IN REAL LIFE. 4:^ of wood. Sheep were useful in the extreme as attordin^^ clothiu[^ in " hodden g'*f'y. " The pro- cesses from sheep-shearincf to the liome-nuide suit were slow and primitive in the light of modern machinery, but the article was <40od, as we know from personal experience. The other day the writer got word of what remained of his grandfather's sword in the old house of one of the settlers who died some years ago. This settler (Angus Poison Xyy name) was a famous worker in wood, and amongst other things was the chief maker of spinning wheels in the colony. The broken fragment of the sword-hilt that remains tells an elocjuent and pathetic story. Doubtless the old soldier (who w^as one of the survivors of the Black Hole of Calcutta, and who died at Kildonan, aged 107) prized greatly the sword he had carried on the hot plains of India, but to help his fellow-colon- ists he gave it to the maker of spinning wheels that the brass basket-hilt might be broken and used in their construction. The old weaver's loom, too, was a familiar iigure, and the sight of the weaver throwing the Hying shuttle with its i I I ^! ■ r 44 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS croHsint^ threads has always enhir^ed bel'oru me, as the years liave <^rown, into the vision of Him wlio sits at tlie " roaring loom of time " and weaves with warp and woof tlie wel) of liuman life. Since then I have always understood more clearly and entered more fully into the words of the; oreat hynni : " With mercy Jind with jiulgineiit My wt'l) of tiiiiu He wove, Aiiik uye tlie dews of sorrow Wore histred with his love, I'll bless tlie hand that ," and as for locks thcv wen* in-acticallv as niucli • I • unknown as in Acadia, " liomr of the Iiappy," ol' wlioso poo])l(' it is said : " Neither locks had thoy to their doors, nor burs to their windows ; But their dwellings were open as dny and the hearts of the owners." Hospitality was unbounded, and as no casto or color lines wore drawn, not only was the wlnt<' friend made welcome, but tli" belated Indian, still far from liis wigwam, was sure of a ^-ood supper and the warm corner by the chinu'ey as a couch for his innocent sleep. Such thin|.|s as calling cards were unheard of, and exciipt in tin; eveninjjj time even knockin*^ at the door was dispensed with by near nei<^hbors. The older people delighted principally in lon<^' talks to- gether, ofttimes doubtless of the dano-ers they had passed. Let^^ends of their ancestors far and near, with the strufj^gles of their Fatherland for civil and religious freedom, were recounted proudly and thankfully, and as I, the youngest II 52 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS child of the family, was ^jjeuerally in the " old folks " t^roiip when these tales were told, there was " poured into my veins a Scottish prejudice which shall never cease to boil alonj[^ there till the flood-^ates of life shut in eternal rest." I suppose Eutychus found Paul's sermon too lono; because he took no interest in the sul)ject, but it was a fa.rew(jll sermcjii, and the last words between people of kindred heart never seem to ])e enousive strength with the deep lines of suffering and toil. And as he stood there, that aged man (Donald Murray by name), with tears streaming down his owm deeply furrowed cheeks, said, indicating the l)ody of [ IN REAL LIFE, 53 my fatlier, " It's seventy years since Robert and I have been friends to<^ether." Threescore years and ten ! \v'hat a retrospect ! and across wliat a ru«4'^ed plain of hard experience I I knew then in the li^lit of that stateinent how tliose lono- talks and slow leave-takings were to wear in my memory henceforth a halo of sacredness, as I would see those two, who had clung together during the long years and fought their trials with the splendid va)'-; of their race and a ncjble faith in God, standinjj; where the ways parted down near the sunset of life. Amidst such .scenes as these the old sur- vivors of the colony waited for the end undis- turbed by the newer conditions ])eginning to oljtain around them. The younger people had in the winter time their social gatherings juid their litei'ary and other meetings. The c[uestion of dancing is nuich discussed in the abstract, and we are not going to enter upon a discussion here, but the dancing of those days in a simple and pure state of society was practically as much an outlet for the physical exuberance as were the games of I ; iS if^ 54 TJ/i: SELKIRK SETTLERS ball, etc., in the summer, and no more harmful morally so far as we know. Round djinces had not come in, and the reels, strathspeys, etc., were a test of pliysical endurance as well as of skill, A special dance known as the " Red River jig " we have never seen any one but a native of the countiy do to perfection. The music was always the violin played to the vigorous accompaniment of the foot, and we have known men carry with them an extra pair of moccasins, so that when one pair was worn out on the rough floor they miglit not be at * '£ loose an idea about meitm and tuum in the liorso lin«\ strin^^cnt laws were enacted. For a time it was a settled decision of the courts that the owner of a horse, finding him in the hands of another, could not only have such a one proceeded a^^ainst, but could seize and hold the saddle or harness, etc., tliat was upon the horse at the time. The administration of law, when once a real system of administration was established, rested with a judge or recorder, assisted fre(|uently by associated magistrates, and sometimes these magistrates (appointed from amongst the settlers) held court them- selves. Serious otlences were not frecpient, and those that did come before the magistrates were disposed of in a summary way. In the quarrels that sometimes broke out I have seen my father, who was one of the magistrates, holding court in the house, and when he con- cluded that the parties were about e(jually to blame, he compelled them to advance from the sides of the room to the centre and shake hands in the presence of the court, as a declaration of their intention to live peaceably I ! I IN REAL LIFE. 69 h from that tiini3 I'orwanl. 1 suppose tluit any })reach of tlie peace afterwards would have been look(Ml on as contempt of court and i)unished accordingly : hence the people who had a high veneration for authority generally kept the compact. In cases wdiere threats hav the weird eanip-fires ali:>^ plastered in the chiid\S and white- wasluMl, and overh(\'id the thatche(] and mortar- crowned roof. 1 ha\'e a dim i-ecollection of l)ein«>' within tlie precincts, and of seciiii:- the lon^ benches down the sides of the room, with the I'anious "cu|)l>oard" in whicli the mea^'re scliool snp])lies \\ere kept, as wcJl as the won- derl'id Ll'lobe for tlie i»voi'rai)hv class. I have also an idea that 1 recall (perha}is 1 only heard of it) a meetiniX of the settlers calle(l to f building' a lU'W school, and low one o f tl lem, a powei V •ful nwm, Lrave ocular demonstration of the unsoundness of the old one bv drivinu" his a\e to the liandle in one of its best remaininix lo " l)ack room " that Manitoba ( \)1 lent' took shaj)«-in |S7I under l)i'. IJryee. U]) oo this era of the colI(M«;t' th(^ lionor I'oll ol' teachers — sti'oni;' men who ItattkMl witli dithculties and iVom whose ])U))ils (3ame many w1h> ha\e nwuh; their impi'css on tiie Idstoiy ol" the country — is as follows: .h^lni Ink- ster, Ak*xan(k'r Mathc^son, A(kim Maclietli, liector Maclieth, Akixaink'i' lloss, .lames llarju-r, Akwander l*oison and 1), 15. W'himster, some of vvdiom remain to tlie ])resent time, hut the most of wliom liave falk'u asleep. Verily " they rest from their la})ors and their works do follow tliem." Durin^ail these years many of the])Upils of tliese men went to eastern institutions of hi^dier learninS20, and of tlic services of this Church the IScotch settlei^s availed themselves. J^ut wlule doint:' «<> these settlers never absolutely oave their adherence to that Church, nor accepted the situation as a t'ultilment oi' tlie promise nunle tlu'm as tu church privi!eo-es. All honcn*, however, oujL;'ht to be ^iven to the Church ol' Kn<^land tor the manner in which thev acc(mimodateil their form ol' service to meet the known opinions of the colonists on such matters. In their reii'ular * worship they omitted largely the use of the Litur<4y and Prayer-book, and the [)salms were sunj>' in the meu'e and tune to wh'*^'* the settlers had been aecustomerought with them, and ;;ave all they could to their faithful ti*ain do<;s. Then before retirin<( to rest under tlie lee of their toboiroans, with the doi^s crouched around them in the snow, they held a prayer-meetin<;' to ask Him for food who fed Israel with manna. When thev awoke three ])utfaloes were in the valley below, but it was not until after another ])rayer-meeting for ouidance as to their course on the Sabbath day that, in view of tlie necessity and the evident providence, one of their number (an elder in the Church) was appointed by the o «, % vs^< IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) V // ^/ ^.*^. ^ «^ A Z ^ ^ 1.0 I.I 1.25 l&Ki 12.5 ■^ 1^ 12.2 lb u. gzo ^A '/. /A ♦V^ '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation '4^'i?r^ 33 WEST MAIN STREIT WEBSTER, N.Y. USrO (716) 873-4S03 .^ <\ f^ )l< 02 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS ^■» i^,^ rest to procure for tlio pJirty a present food supply. He approacluMl the Imttaloes vvitliout difficult}', shot one, and though the others remained for a time, as they sometimes will in such a case, he did not shoot a<;ain, holdin<;' that lu' was only justified in taking what was actually necessary- on the Lord's Day. Some people would describe such conduct as extreme, hut that God approves of action true to con-, science as the needle to the pole, is evidenced hy the signal way in which He was with them through all their trials, even unto a peaceful and prosperous old age. We have said that the settlers never ceased to importune the authorities, civil and ecclesias- tical, for a minister of their own faith; and any on(.» who studies the history of the time will see that they sent petition after petition to the Church at home (some of them never received), showered them upon the Ihulson's Bay Com- pany, and incessantly bombarded every promi- nent oHicer of that corporation who visited the settlement with reminders of the promise made them. At last the Church in Scotland referred ' \ I IN REAL LI/'E. O.S ased sias- any seo the tM), (jni- tJini- tlie lade rreil th(; matter to tlic Kev. Dr. Bums, ])astor of Knox Cliiirc'li in Toronto: and Mr. Ballondon, then the local <;overnor of the Hudson's Hav Company, ur^^ed the matter in the same (|uarter about the same time, with the result that Dr. Burns secured the appointme'iit of John Black, a graduate of Knox Colle<(e, then working as a missionarv in Lower Canada. After .some hesi- tation as to his dutv in the matter, Mr. P)lack finally accepted tlie apiujintment, and after a long and arduous j(Mirney, via St. I'aul, Minne- sota, reached Red River in the autunni of 18') I, and on his arrival three hundred of the Scotch settlers severed their nominal connection witli the Church of England and rallied around the young missionary. Physically, mentally an«l spiritually, Mr. (afterwards Dr.) Black was the man for the place. No other than a man of great ph^'sical enchu'ance could have stood the strain of frontier work as lie did for thirty years, and judging from what he was, as I remember him, his compact and strenuous frame gave every indication of his physical strength. Many years after his coming, and when his 04 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS dark locks were plentifully whitened with the snows that never melt, we used to supply him at times with hay for winter use (he always kept a few horses and cows), and when we (I wjis little more than a child helping my brother, or professin<^ to do so) went to deliver the hay, Dr. Black invariably came out from his stud}' and took a hand in unloadinf^ the carts to the stack. My brother always <^ave him the strong- est fork, for he would snap the handle of an ordinary one ; anf \\\\> cKmimmiIn. In tin* huiMin;^ ol' that cliurch one* t)!' the most notict^al)!*' tlnnj^.s was tlic absence ol' all adventitious sclicincs lor ])n)vi(lin;;- nu'ans, for the ]HM)|>1(», thou<:;h ])oor in nionc}', luul a niintl to woi'k an«i opcniMl tlu» church free of i^^^ol(»(>d." To the piMjple whose Ixxlies were l)urie(l the-re from the homes around, reli<(ion was a real and a vital tiling. Thonju^hly schooled in the stand- ards of their Church, the Bible above all was their Hook, and, undisturbed by any critical theories, they believed it as the Word of (iod from the sublime *' In the be^dnnin^ " clear through to the last triumphal acclaim of the 100 THE SELKIRK SEni.l.RS I "A Apocalypso. Ilcnco the liook cntcnMl into tlu», vory HI)ro of their Itcin;;;. Jiinl i^^ave (hem ai» uiil)«'ii(linI(' of his ri^^id hcmsv <»!' duty, wr rccjill once a litrrarv m(j('tiii\|>ressions " — an incident somewhat disconcerting* to the reciters, but chai'acteristic of a man who felt that homage should be paid to one only the living and true Ciod. As an illustration of the way in which he was reverenced by all, it is worth while to relate another incident, told by one who was present at the time. A social tea-meetino- was in progress in one portion of the settlement, called Little Britain, when a burly half-breed, a man of inunense physical stren<^th and, withal, a noted bully, entered in a mischievous state of intoxi- cation, and be|^an by word and act to make things very unsafe for those with wiiom he came in contact. He was one of those men who become excited almost to madness by litpior, and so all attempts to quiet him oidy made matters worse, and things were becoming serious when some one thought of Dr. Black being next door. He 1 \ i I I 1 1 02 77//1 SE/.K'/Rk' SF/n/J'lh'S wiiH at once Hi'iit lor, and comin^ij up to tlu' Imlly ))iit his hand upon liis .sliouldiT and called liini l>y name. Tlu; man turned fiercely around, hut when he saw the venenihle face of the min- ister ol' Kildonan he sank down with the most pi'ol'use promises that he would he (piiet, and he lve|)t his word. Verily it nuist have remindetl those present ol' the fierce demoniac calmed out of" his violence at the touch and word ol' tin' CMirist. In their reliwly up to tlui pulpit, hut I can sm^ tlio liorror and uniazo- nu'ut of tlu! pt'oph' as the " ('van;;(.'Iist " canre up the aisle pulling' off a fur coat and talkinjr vohihly al)out the weatlier, etc., as he went. At one of tlie ineetin;^s some man from Wiiuiipe^, after a few words, called uj)on all who w<"ru Christians to stand up. No one arose, and when a second and a third appeal were in vain, the man turned to the old minister and said some- thing implying that it was strange he had no Christians there after all those years. An old elder present could stand a good deal, but he could not stand anything like a slur on Dr. Black, and so he arose and addressed the speaker in words to this effect : " There are Christians here, but we do not show our religion in that way. We have not been brought up to it, and what is more we do not want it. If you have a u:ood word of truth for us we will be tjlad to hear it, but if you have nothing better to say than asking us to stand uj) you had better sit 104 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS I im down." It is scarcely necessary to say that the method was not followed at subsequent meetings. The elder refewed to in this incident is, in many respects, a type of the character produced under Dr. Black's ministry. He stood by his minister ecjually in all the circle of his work. He faith- fully seconded the minister's efforts in pastoral visitation, and to this day is one of the first to be found at any sick-bed of which he lieai-s. Somewhat brusque in manner and somewhat unpolished in address, people need to know him to appreciate him, but where he is best known he is most loved. At prayer-meetings we have known him differ from a later minister, a young man whose staunch friend he was, on the inter- pretation of a parable (and we are bound to say the elder was right on the point in our view), but no minister who appreciated true worth would resent the opinion of a loving and devoted helper to whom the Bible was the best beloved and the best known of all books. I remember once, in a neighbor's house, assisting a son to place the body of his father in a coffin which this elder had made and brought to the house. bthe ings. lany tider ister lith- oral tto lars. hat ^lim •wn ave mg ier- jay w), •th ed ed >er to ch ie. IN REAL LIFE. 10:> I recall the apparently iiidifiereiit manner in which the eMer acted and spoke as he was direct- ing us, but the members of that family knew well what a bleeding heart he was Jiiding under his brus(iueness, and how, ere he left their humble dwelling, he would lead them in prayer so that the heavens would seem to open above them in their sorrow. 106 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS i I \ I CHAPTER XII. MISSIONARY OUTPOSTS. The Indian Mission at Prince Albert, on the Saskatchewan (where tliere are now several thriving churches) was an overflow from the religious and educational life of Kildonan. In 1861 the Rev. James Nisbet came from Oak- ville, Ontario, to help Dr. Black in the growing work of the West, and after five years in and about the colony, where he is still affection- ately remembered, went 500 miles north-west- ward and founded a mission, to which he gave the name of the Prince Consort. With that mission the old home of the writer was closely connected, for to it there went at that time two sisters and a brother : Mary, the wife of Mr. Nisbet, the missionary; Christina, the wife of John McKay, then the interpreter : and Adam, ■ n:-? IN REAL LIFE. 107 who was to teach the school, together with other relatives and connections. When the whites had settled around Prince Albert, John McKay went farther afield as an Indian missionary, and a few personal recollections of James Nisbot and John McKay may fittingly close the present volume. My earliest recollection of Mr. Nisbet is on the day of my mother's funeral, whicli took place on my fifth birthday, but some scenes of which are indelibly photographed on my memory. I can see yet the old house crowded, and then the long procession that carried out with it the dust of her whose death made a blank in my life, whose greatness I realized, not then, but more and more as the years have flown. My father, who was heart-broken, was not able to go to the churchyard, but as the funeral procession passed out he went down a little way on tlie field to have a last look at the coflfin borne away on the shrouded bier. I can see him returning bent and in tears. With him was Mr. Nisbet, and as they walked Mr. Nisbet took the Scotch plaid he himself wore n ' Ml m if i; 1 1 '' 1 ^1^' fil :|| 1! • 1. 108 T//E SELk'/Rk' SETTLERS (tor it was early winter) and placed it around the stooi)ined and carried her into the old home to die. For her the end was not long delayed, and after she had lost consciousness I remember how calmly, to outward appearance, her husband waited for the end, counting her feeble pulse- beats with his watch in hand, while all the IX REAL LIFE. Ill while the sword of a <:frt'at sorrow was slowly piereinn^ throu<^]i his heart. When all was over the hiisbaiul rose, and as he and my father stood together I renieiid)er how Mr. Nisbet said, " I liope you all feel that I acted for the best wlien I l)rought Mary back home," and the answer of my father, whose heart had yearned to see her ere he died, ny one. Not many days after that Mr. Nisbet gave way before the brief illness that carried his frail life out also. His room was in one end of the big farm-house, and when he fell ill at night no one knew of it till the daybreak, for all had thought that he but needed rest to restore him to full strenirth. In the morning, as he came out to the dining- room, I recall how he told of sufferinii- durini:: the night, and how he, who always looked for 112 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS op])ortunitieH to onforcc tlic teachin*^ of tlie Word, said, "I can understand now what the I'salniist meant when he said, ' My soul waitetli Tor the Lord more than they that watcli for the morninf]^, yea, more than they that watcli for the morninjr.' " A few days later he died of a diphtheritic trouble, which his weakened system could not resist, and in the newly-covered j^rave of his wife his dust was laid to rest. Over them the General Assembly of 1887 erected a granite colunm, such as their relatives, poor in worldly iT'^ods, had never hoped to see, but in the inHneasural)le inHuence they exerted on manv^ whose lives have been consecrated to the service of God, in the noble record of their self- denying lal)ors, and in the enduring work at Prince Albtu't, we see their grandest and divinest monument. Beside Mr. Nisbet, as we look liack along the line of our church histor}'^ in the West, we see the figure of the late Rev. John McKay, at one time the interpreter and general provider at Prince Albert, and latterly the missionary on the Mistawasis Reserve, near Fort C^arleton. IN REAL LIFE, 113 From my earliest childhood I rememher his physical appearance and the characteristics which made him so successful in the Indian work. A powerfully-built man, with great breadth of shoulder and immense depth of chest, muscular and athletic, dark-skinned and raven-haired, with a(juiline nose and piercing black eyes — his whole physical make-up com- mended him to the Indians, who adore physical strength and prowess. Moreover, he was of the half-blood — his father Scotch, his mother a pure Cree — and united in himself the courage and energy of the white with the skill and endurance of the Indian. This made him one of the class whose presence in this country has been invaluable as, standing midway between the white and the red man, they constituted a medium of communication and a guarantee of ^ood faith that led to peaceful solutions of the questions that arose between them. In the case of John McKay himself, every one who is famil- iar with the history of this country knows how he assisted the late Governor Morris in arranging the Indian treaties in the West, and in securing 8 & ( 114 THE SELKIRK SETTLERS i»i < It a peace and j^ood-will tliat would have been impoHsiblc without his help and the help of men of his class. Down to the time of death he retained an unrivalled influence over the Indians, as witnessed by the fact that in 1885, thouj^h the rebellion broke out at Duck Lake, not far from the Reserve, the old chief Mista- wasis not only resisted the incitement of Kiel's runners and remained loyal, but with a picked band of men escorted the missionary's family to Prince Albert, and there offered his services to the Government. When John McKay first went to PrincPi Albert his main duty was to supply the mission with the products of the chase, and since he had been used to the prairie from his childhood, he found this a congenial task. He was an experienced buffalo hunter and a dead shot, though I often heard him express his abhorrence of the way in which the buffalo were slaughtered for the love of gain by hunters, who simply took the tongue and hide of the slain animal. All these qualities, with his in- timate acquaintance with the language and customs of the Indians, gave him unbounded IN REAL LIFE. 11.") control over them in ways which provt'd of f^reat .service in all lines of his work. The possession of courage is always a sure passport to the respect of the Indians, and that John McKay had that courage they were tauj^ht in a j^reat many ways. In the earlier days of Prince Albert, roving bands of strange Indiana used fre<[uently to come to the mission an s])ol\e to lluMu as follows: 1 I lave V(»ur lilood ni n»v venis and 3'ou are my hrothers; hut I have also th(» hlood t)!' the whit<', and therel'on* I am more jaiuh it than you are. We nnist have IVxm! here Tor our families, and cannot irive awav all our animals, or wc cainiot si>w our fields. We have always e vears afterwanls, when Prince Albert lu'came larirely a white settlement, he moved AV A'/;.// ///A'. 117 out. f(> llir MistMAVJisiM Krstrvc (Tor liis lirarl, \\i\H in ilir liitliaii woi'In ), whm (M'tlniiird liy prnniMMinii <»f llir AHMi'iiiMy »i iniiiistiT nl' Mir < lOHprl, mill ininiMti'i'nl llirir till liiH ilcatli witli ;^n'M.t success, lie WHS a iialurnl-lMini nrnlnr, ami lia of endurin;; reality. An incident I heard him relate on his last visit to Kildonan has always seemed to me a striking instanct; of the way in which the psalmody and hymnolo;;y of the Church attests its on«'nesH. Aft«^r th(5 18.sr) rehellion a mnnher of th(^ loyal chiefs, amongst them Mistawasis and his old friend Star HIanket, were taken to the Kast, and were i^reatly impressed with the; evidences of power and ])ro^ress they saw in the haunts of tlu5 white man. On his return, Mistawasis met John McKay at Qu'Appelle, and tliey spent th(i iii^ht to«^ether. Mainly, their talk was on re- ligious WM)rk, and Mistawasis told tluMiiisHionary how they had attended some gi'eat meetinjr and ^^^ 118 I W' \u ? 77//i SELk'/KK SETTLERS afterwards wore iiivitud to a roception in the home ol' one of tlie Christian workers. The chief said there were many ladies and ^Gentle- men present wlio sanng was the 100th psalm which they had leavned in Cree to the I; ;«! the rho tlu- »t," the tjir id- •ch uii )le lie se vo i- 'y :*e h e /A^ /i'i5-//Z /M'/r. 119 oM tune, and which the people in the East had learned in English to the sann^ John McKay died a few yeans since as the r^ult of exposure to the ^reat hardships of his ;^- -n the plains, l>ut Urn inHuence for ^.,o