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 Cj^urcj^ in t^e Colonies. 
 
 No. XXI. 
 
 JOURNAL 
 
 or THX 
 
 BISHOP 0>F NEWFOUNDLAND'S VOYAGE 
 
 or 
 
 Visitation unh Wistobtx^^ 
 
 ON THE 
 
 SOUTH AND WEST COASTS 
 or 
 
 NEWFOUNDLAND AND ON THE LABRADOB, 
 IN THE CHURCH SHIP " HAWK/' 
 
 IN THE YEAR 1848. 
 
 Ov Toi &vev eeov '^wraro Se^iot Spvtt 
 ^^P^^^' Obyib. O. 530. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRIKTBO POa 
 THE SOCIETY POR THE PROPAGATION OP THE GOSPEL J 
 
 AND SOLD Br TBI 
 
 SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE; 
 
 67, GBKAT QUBBN STBBIT, IINOOLN's INN FIELDS, 
 AND 4, ROYAL EXCHANGE ; 
 
 ,_„„«», iij.iUiiAiti,o ; AND ALL BUUKSELLSRS. 
 
 March. 
 
 1849. 
 
 .s?V .. 
 
 ■'^'^■'^^■•f^^*-i^-s-'*''^v'c^;-i.,.t^^ 
 
 Xf .' 
 
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 'bt3Q>9^^.^5^\{ 
 
 Vb-^ej 
 
 LONDON: 
 n. CLAT, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL. 
 
 IK 
 
 (V-. 
 
 'v^ 
 
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 Si 
 
 ix 
 
 ♦^ 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 V6 
 
 The Newfoundland Church ship is a schooner, of 
 about 56 tons, whic'^ was presented to the Bishop 
 of that Diocese by the Rev. Robert Eden, Rector of 
 Leigh, Essex, for the particular purpose of visiting 
 the scattered settlements of the colony ; all of which, 
 without exception, lie on the coast, and, in most 
 cases, can be approached only by sea. 
 
 In the summer of 1848 the Bishop undertook the 
 arduous task of visiting in his little ship the southern 
 and western shores of Newfoundland, with an inten- 
 tion of extending his voyage to and along (as far as 
 the short summer of that ice-bound country would 
 allow) the coast of Labrador. With reference to 
 the latter country, the Bishop's visitation might be 
 regarded as a voyage of ecclesiastical or religious 
 discovery, as no Clergyman of the Church of Eng- 
 land had ever travelled along the coast. Its connex- 
 ion with the Diocese of Newfoundland is presumed 
 from its connexion with the ^ovpmrp^rj* '^^ ♦i^"- 
 Colony J the whole American shore, from Blanc 
 Sablon on the south (lat. 51° 30' N., and lon^ 57° W ^ 
 
~v 
 
 li I 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 to Baffin's Bay, or without limit, to the north, 
 being comprehended in or under the general juris- 
 diction and territorial arrangement of Newfoundland 
 and its dependencies. The connexion of the I Labra- 
 dor in civil and political matters with Newfoundland 
 has probably arisen partly from their contiguity in 
 the southern parts, (the distan^^e across the Straits 
 of Belle Isle being not more than 12 miles,) and 
 partly from a very profitable fishery having been 
 established and carried on by the merchants and 
 planters of Newfoundland, during the summer, along 
 the whole of the Labrador coast as far as Cape 
 Harrison, about forty miles to the north of Sandwich 
 Bay. The generally successful returns of this fish- 
 ery have led fishermen to remain and settle, with 
 the further object of " sealing and furring ;" i. e. of 
 killing the seals, which in winter are brought in 
 large numbers on the coast with the ice, and then 
 of trapping or shooting the martens and foxes for 
 their furs. For the prosecution of the trafiic in 
 seals and furs, as it can be pursued only in win- 
 ter, several merchants keep up establishments in 
 the larger settlements, and "crews" in other places, 
 who, by uniting the fishery in summer with the 
 pursuit of seals and foxes in the winter, bring great 
 -gains to their employers. The few independent 
 planters, however, most commonly part with their 
 seals, furs, and fish to the traders from the United 
 States and Nova Scotia, who come upon the coast 
 ^arly in the summer, and barter their goods in 
 exchange for this produce of the land and sea. On 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 fl 
 
 the southern parts of the coaut, at Blanc Sablon and 
 Forteau, are large fishing establishments, owned and 
 conducted by merchants in Jersey, who send their 
 vessels and crews in the month of June, which 
 remain till October, wholly employed in catching and 
 curing the cod. In Sandwich Bay there is a large 
 salmon fishery, conducted by highly respectable 
 merchants in London, who by the end of July have 
 shipped olF all their catch of salmon, cured and pre- 
 served, for the market in England and the southern 
 states of Europe. Further to the north are four 
 establishments (the nearest about 300 and the far- 
 thest 600 miles from Sandwich Bay) superintended 
 by the Moravians, who trade chiefly in furs. With 
 the Moravians the traders and fishermen of New- 
 foundland have little or no intercourse, as the short- 
 ness of the summer season, with other circumstances, 
 will hardly allow of their reaching beyond Cape 
 Harrison. In the parts intermediate between For- 
 teau on the south, and Sandwich Bay to the north, 
 are numerous settlements, generally of two or three 
 families, but in one instance (Battle Harbour) of 
 nearly 200 persons, many of whom came originally 
 from Newfoundland; while, during the summer, 
 there are vessels in every cove and harbour busily 
 employed in the fishery, and from 8,000 to 10,000 
 men visit the coast every year. 
 
 It will readily be believed, from this short account 
 of the produce and trade of the onuntw thai th^ 
 coast of Labrador, however little known and re- 
 garded by Europeans generally, is, to the inhabit- 
 
■«|plM^ 
 
 
 b DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 ants of, and persons connected with, Newfoundland, 
 of considerable interest and importance. 
 
 Within the limits mentioned, from Blanc Sablon 
 to Cape Harrison, are (including the shores of New- 
 foundland on the south side of the Straits of Belle 
 Isle,) fully 1,200 settled inhabitants, while, during 
 the summer months, as many tl ousands are con- 
 stantly employed on the coast. To ascertain the 
 state and character of these settled inhabitants, 
 whether English or native, and of the tribes of 
 Indians in the immediate neighbourhood, and to 
 provide if possible for their religious instruction or 
 superintendence, was the object of the Bishop's visi- 
 tation and voyage of discovery. In explanation of 
 the apparent long neglect of these our neighbours 
 and brethren, together with the natives, by the 
 Church in Newfoundland, it would be sufficient to 
 plead the nature and extent of that newly-formed 
 Diocese, which comprehends, with the whole of 
 Newfoundland, (an island larger than Ireland,) the 
 Bermudas also, at a distance of 1,000 miles, over a 
 stormy sea ! But in addition to this circumstance, 
 which itself can hardly be understood in all its 
 trials and difficulties, except by those who are accus- 
 tomed to coasting voyages in fogs and foul weather 
 of every kind and degree, in addition to the wide 
 extent and wild nature of the Diocese, a doubt has 
 existed (which can hardly yet be considered as pro- 
 perly resolved and cleared up), whether this Labrador 
 coast should look to Newfoundland or Quebec for 
 spiritual superintendence. While Newfoundland 
 
INTRODUCTION. ¥ 
 
 and the Bermudas, together with the Province of 
 New Brunswick, were all comprehended in the Dio- 
 cese of Nova Scotia, (as, unhappily, till within a 
 few years was the case,) it could hardly be expected 
 that Labrador would be visited or provided for by 
 the Bishop of that Diocese, though the care of it, 
 with that of his many other Missions and Churches' 
 came daily upon his thoughts. This coast is also 
 more connected, at least in its southern parts, both 
 by proximity and intercourse, with Canada than with 
 Newfoundland. The government of Canada ends at 
 Blanc Sablon ; and it appears that in the year 1840 
 a Clergyman (the Rev. Edward Cusack) did, under 
 the authority of the Bishop of Montreal, extend a 
 Missionary journey to the southern fishing stations 
 on the Straits of Belle Isle. The more populous 
 and important settlements, however, to the north of 
 Belle Isle, and most frequented by the fishermen 
 from Newfoundland, were not visited. And on the 
 division of the Diocese of Nova Scotia, and the 
 appointment of a Bishop expressly for Newfound- 
 land and its dependencies, it appeared more easy, as 
 well as more regular, that the whole coast of Labra- 
 dor, included in the government of Newfoundland, 
 should be visited and superintended by the Bishop 
 of that Diocese. One other cause of delay or of 
 diflSculty may be just alluded to, though it probably 
 will be surmised,— the great additional expense at- 
 tending so large an additional range of visitation 
 and superintendence, to meet which no provision is, 
 or, it is feared, is likely to be, made. 
 
8 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 There would probaWy be greater difficulty in 
 obtaining the smallest assistance from Government 
 towards an ecclesiastical visitation and voyage of 
 religious discovery, than in wholly fitting out a ship 
 for any scientific purpose, or in surveying and 
 mapping all the harbours on the shore. While 
 funds for the benefit of trade and navigation, or for 
 the promotion of science, are found and forthcoming 
 in abundance, (for which we rejoice,) it must with 
 many persons be a matter both of sorrow and 
 \ surprise, that when the religious or moral benefit 
 of a people is in contemplation, the Government is 
 obliged to reply, there are no funds applicable to 
 such a purpose. To promote such objects, (and 
 surely there are none of greater importance to the 
 people, and all who deal with them in commercial 
 or friendly intercourse,) the Church is forced to 
 rely upon the aid of societies, or private charity. 
 In what manner the noble Society for the Propa- 
 gation of the Gospel has for more than a century 
 extended, and still extends, its bountiful aid to the 
 Church in Newfoundland, is known probably to 
 most persons who take an interest in the eccle- 
 siastical concerns and religious welfare of our wide- 
 spread colonial empire. And though no funds 
 have been specially appropriated for the religious 
 instruction of the native Indians, or the settlers, on 
 the Labrador, (simply, it is believed, because no 
 report of their state has before been rendered, and 
 no application for assistance formally made,) there 
 can be little doubt that the Society will be ready 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 9 
 
 and desirous, not merely to insert this country into 
 the Colonial Church Atlas, (where hitherto it has 
 found no place,) but to admit the Clergymen who 
 may be located there (if any are found to answer 
 the Bishop's call) to the list of Missionaries, and to 
 assist in their support, as far as may be necessary 
 and possible j in other words, as far as Christian 
 charity will supply the means. It would be sad 
 and shameful indeed, if the prospect of connecting a 
 whole race with our Church must be abandoned 
 —and to what earthly help or instrument, except 
 this Society, can the Bishop of Newfoundland look 
 for the necessary aid and encouragement ' — if this 
 great purpose must be abandoned for want of a due 
 supply of funds. But it was hinted, and not with- 
 out sufficient warrant and authority, that private 
 charity may, to a certain extent, directly aid this 
 missionary enterprise. Few persons probably have 
 better grounds for such a comfortable hope than 
 the Bishop of Newfoundland, in the very fact that 
 he was enabled, through the bounty of an individual, 
 to make this protracted voyage of visitation and 
 discovery in a vessel purchased and placed at his 
 command for that holy purpose. And here another 
 reason is suggested (though none besides those 
 just mentioned can be necessary), to explain why no 
 Bishop has before visited the various creeks and 
 harbours on these distant and desolate shores ; viz. 
 because no Bishop before has possessed a suitable 
 vessel devoted to such duty and service, and fuZ 
 nished accordingly, entirely at his command. To 
 
10 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOLNDLAND. 
 
 the charity and piety of the Rev. Robert Eden, hot 
 only does the Bishop of Newfoundland owe the 
 privilege of making this voyage in comfort and 
 dignity, and in the time and manner which appeared 
 most safe and suitable ; but the Church may owe 
 the extension of her borders, and the bringing in of 
 a people, who, for their very poverty and obscurity, 
 are the most natural and proper objects of Christian 
 sympathy and solicitude. The manner and extent 
 to which this noble gift was made available for these 
 good and holy purposes, will appear from a perusal 
 of the following extracts from the Bishop's journal, 
 or ecclesiastical log-book. 
 
JOURNAL. 
 
 The Church ship was put into commission this 
 year on the 20th of June, and on the evening 
 of St. John Baptist's day was despatched to 
 Brigus, in Conception Bay, to bring away the 
 Kev. J. Cunningham and his family, whom it was 
 my intention to place at Burgeo, to superintend the 
 extensive mission lately made vacant by the re- 
 moval of the Rev. M. Blackmore. They arrived 
 at St. John's, with their furniture, &c. on board 
 on the 1st of July. 
 
 July 6.— I was attended by the Clergy to the 
 place of embarkation ; and on the wharf I found 
 several friends waiting to take leave, and to wish 
 me good luck in the name of the Lord ; whose 
 greetings and good wishes were much appreciated, 
 being, as I have reason to believe, for His sake 
 and m His name, whose I am and whom I serve' 
 Several of my friends accompanied me on board, 
 who departed on the ship getting under way, not 
 without a blessing. As the wind was blowing in 
 1 was giad to avail myself of the assistance of the 
 Unicorn mail-steamer, which was about to leave at 
 the same time ; and the Church ship was accord- 
 
 
12 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 ] 
 
 ingly taken in tow, with another and larger vessel, 
 a brig, about two o'clock in the afternoon. On 
 passing the Battery, I saw several ladies, who had 
 assembled to wave their hands and handkerchiefs, 
 and so bid adieu. My clergy and friends also had 
 climbed on the rocks, and saluted us with hands 
 and, I was quite willing to believe, with hearts of 
 kindness and courtesy. On reaching the Narrows 
 the swell was very heavy, and in consequence the 
 hawser of the brig snapped in two, and, having no 
 sails set, she fell astern, and was fain to run before 
 the wind and sea back into the harbour. In less 
 than five minutes our hawser went in the same 
 manner ; but the captain was prepared, and the 
 schooner Ilawk soon spread her wings, and escaped 
 all danger and difficulty by a single tack, and we 
 were spared the delay and mortification of re- 
 turning. I do not look for signs and omens, (elg 
 oi(i)v6c aptffToZi &c.*) but the success of the Church 
 ship, contrasted with the disappointment of the 
 trading vessel, was no small encouragement and 
 cause of thankfulness. Had we been obliged to 
 return, we might not have left the harbour for 
 several days, and should have lost a fair wind and 
 fine time. After passing Cape Race, the wind was 
 quite fair, and we went merrily before it j— that is, the 
 Church ship did ; as for the passengers, there was 
 but little merriment shown or felt. All my com- 
 panioRs, except one, were soon sea-sick, and they 
 who were spared that trial were perhaps as sick, 
 
 * HoM. II. M. 243. 
 
USES OF THE CHURCH SHIP. 
 
 18 
 
 perhaps sicker, at heart. My companions and 
 co-mates on this occasion are the Rev. J. Cunning- 
 ham, with his wife and their baby, (to whom 
 I have given up my cabin,) destined, as before 
 remarked, for the Mission of Burgeo ; the Rev. 
 Mr. Addington, going to serve as deacon and curate 
 in Fortune Bay ; th^ Rev. Messrs. Hoyles and 
 Harvey, who will attend me through my voyage, 
 partly as my Chaplains, and partly for the benefit 
 of their health ; and Mr. Brown, one of the students 
 of the Theological Institution, also an invalid ; in 
 all, with myself, eight souls. Mr. Cunningham's 
 furniture and supplies were stowed in both cabins 
 and on the deck. My friends in England, could they 
 peep within, would see that the schooner Hawh is 
 not regarded or used as (by some persons unjustly 
 called) the Bishop's yacht, but serves the purpose, 
 and deserves, as she glories in, the name, of the 
 Newfoundland Church ship. While the primary 
 object of visitation is kept in view and fully at- 
 tained, the benefit of the Church and Clergy, as 
 much as possible, through her instrumentality, is on 
 this occasion, as in many former instances, gladly 
 promoted. 
 
 Friday, July 7.— We made great progress during 
 last night. The morning was fine, but my com- 
 panions were still suffering from the motion of the 
 vessel, and could not rise. I said the Litany in the 
 
 csponses irom 
 
 liXC 
 
 their berths. By four o'clock in the afternoon we 
 were within sight of St. Peter's, having run a 
 
 I; 
 
14 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 / 
 
 distance of 180 miles in little more than twentj- 
 four hours. In the evening my friends, with one 
 exception, all appeared on deck, and were thankful 
 for the smooth sea and sunny sky. We chanted the 
 Canticles in our evening service. 
 
 Saturday, July 8.— The wind had died away in 
 the night, and during this whole day we were 
 nearly becalmed. I had full leisure to survey the 
 shores of Fortune Bay, in the neighbourhood of 
 Fortune and Grand Bank (the two chief settle- 
 ments in the Bay), and to lament that the Wesleyan 
 ' Methodists, through default of the ministrations of 
 the Church, have wholly occupied them j or rather, 
 to lament that there has been, and still is, such 
 default of the ministrations of the Church ; for, in 
 truth, I cannot either lament or complain that the 
 Methodists, under such circumstances, have come 
 forward to supply our lack of service. Surely 
 I have sufficient warrant to say, if in any way 
 Chiist be preached among them, " I therein do 
 rejoice, yea, and will rejoice." And yet this feeling 
 need not and must not prevent the wish and 
 prayer, that the Church may fulfil her allotted duty, 
 and occupy her rightful place. Just before dark 
 we were seen and recognised from Jersey Harbour, 
 and a boat with five hands was kindly sent by the 
 agent to our assistance. Our own boat with four 
 hands was also put out, and by these means we 
 reached our anchorage in Harbour Briton by one 
 o*clock, the boats towing for nearly four hours. 
 We had reason to be thankful we had reached so 
 
SUNDAY AT HARBOUR BRITON. I5 
 
 far, and to a harbour with a church, before the first 
 Sunday. If God will, we shall enjoy a Sabbath, 
 which could hardly be the case at sea with a 
 crowded ship. 
 
 Sunday, July 9. —At half-past seven o'clock 
 I was on deck, refreshing my admiring recoUection 
 of this picturesque harbour, so completely land, 
 locked that a stranger could hardly guess thq 
 passage to sea, and surrounded by hills of a bold 
 and fantastic outline, which could, I think, be pro- 
 duced by nothing but fire and fusion. Then the 
 fishermen's huts and flakes here and there, with 
 occasional attempts at the cultivation of the soil 
 showing but more strongly the domination of 
 barrenness and desolation ; and before me the 
 merchant's establishment, looking as complete, com- 
 fortable, and consequential as wealth could make it; 
 while the poor church, with her stunted, unfinished 
 tower, seemed to mourn for herself and the place 
 and to say, « Is it nothing to you, all ye that pass 
 by ? Am I to be left unfinished and uncared for 
 amid the provision and profusion of all good things' 
 for the increase of wealth and worldly enjoyment ' 
 But lo ! a new feature appears : suddenly is seen' 
 pacing to and fro on the wharf, with downcast look, 
 a cassocked figure, and by his side one of equally 
 contemplative manner and mien, both drpoMvv<TOL * 
 Mrmonising ill with the surrounding scenery 
 
 whether J^»c^rpr1 ♦/> *v.« i^cj.. _ i.. . •, , — 
 
 xx V. ' "" '"^ ^ ^'^ uncuiiivated iiilis, or 
 
 the fish flakes, or the great stores. I soon recog- 
 
 * Outofpla'^?. 
 
'I 1 
 
 ■f 
 
 16 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOl^DLAND. 
 
 nised the " Mountain " priest— the faithful priest — 
 who quitted the pleasures and refinements of a happy 
 home to minister to these poor fishermen and watch 
 for their souls, and his chosen Silas, (Mr. Colley,) 
 no less devoted to his Master's service, though in a 
 humbler office and sphere, and making, it may be, 
 as great a sacrifice according to his circumstances 
 and condition in life. I was presently saluted and 
 welcomed by both on the deck of the Church ship, 
 in which they had come together from England in 
 the spring of last year (1847). 
 
 The service in the church commenced at eleven 
 o'clock. I preached^ and administered the Holy 
 Sacrament to my friends, and all the communicants 
 (alas ! only three) in the place, all females. Some 
 men who would have communicated were absent. 
 The afternoon service at three o'clock, when the Rev. 
 Mr. Harvey preached. In the evening all our party, 
 one excepted, drank tea at the Agent's house ; 
 and we concluded with hymns and chants, with a 
 view partly of instructing some young men belong- 
 ing to the establishment, who are desirous of forming 
 a choir. Mrs. Cunningham Ind her baby remained 
 on shore ; the rest returned to our cubicula in the 
 Church ship, thankful for a most peaceful, pleasant 
 Sabbath, the joy of which was only dashed by the 
 apparent indifference of the planters and people 
 generally to the Church and her means of grace. 
 And yet what could be expected more, when now 
 for five years no Clergyman has been among them ; 
 and the last, who was also the first resident, re- 
 
JERSEY HARBOUR. 27 
 
 mained but a fe^ month, only ? It was satisfactory 
 to find that the fittings of the church which 
 
 c::;,er '- ''■ '-''-' -- -^ -w :i 
 
 with Mr. Mountain. Service in the church at 
 
 which St r *° ="^^^'' ""^ '"»«™«o"» 
 
 rwent7 ' """'''"'^ ''^'■"'^ *■'« consecration. 
 
 cont^', I ''"^ '""<=•' '" ">« Clergyman's 
 
 control. A respectable female is the mistresf wh„ 
 
 arZLThtcSelt"^^'"!!--^^-" 
 
 wie4 as isiix:fsiir L'thr 
 
 or for the majority. The rest of the duy Z sZt 
 r Af S'r; .^'*"«''- boardLchS 
 
 anLrat^::::^htr"rurt;r--'--. 
 
 to f^^S -^"'^ ? '-7^^ "^'^ •J--" and intended 
 aC Let ^MrTu'nt? "^"^ 7*'""'"^ 
 
 pursuit, purpose, or prosn^c* but f?^'- « i, - - 
 and yet he appears contenVed and happT n7"t ' 
 non.eanscoldasafish,orhardasSrHet 
 
 B 
 
 
18 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 the Agent of Messrs. Nicolle, of Jersey. We re- 
 turned, and dined on board. Prayers in the church 
 at half-past six o'clock, with a much-increased con- 
 gregation. After service I took a long walk with 
 Mr. Mountain, and discussed all matters on which 
 he required or desired advice. His zeal and devo- 
 tion are very edifying and encouraging ; and all that 
 seems needed to qualify him for the Missionary 
 work, and make him abundantly useful and success- 
 ful, if God will, is experience, and, till that be 
 attained, patience. 
 
 Wednesday, July 12.— This morning no wind at 
 
 all, and consequently no possibility of making a 
 
 departure, which was a trial of patience. About 
 
 twelve o'clock a breeze sprang up, of which we 
 
 thought it well to avail ourselves for escaping from 
 
 the harbour, though afterwards it would not be 
 
 favourable: but in twelve hours we did not make 
 
 so many miles. The day was fine, and all on board 
 
 were comfortable. I had left Mr. Aldington at 
 
 Harbour Briton. Mr. Mountain took his place in 
 
 the Church ship, that he might have an opportunity 
 
 of visiting the distant settlements of his Vicarage, 
 
 some ninety miles along the coast. 
 
 Thursday, July 13.— If there was any difference 
 in our position since yesterday, we seemed to have 
 gone back rather than to have advanced. There 
 was no wind. The day very fine, but the delay was 
 vexatious. 
 
 Friday, July 14. — The first unpleasant day since 
 our departure from St. John's; thick fog, with a 
 
DENSE FOO. 
 
 19 
 
 head-wind. All were more or less uncomfortable 
 I read the Litany in the morning. 
 
 Saturdat/, July IS.-N0 wind after midnight 
 and none this morning, but a dense fog j nothing 
 else could be seen. You could not say, 
 
 " Quoeunque aspicias nihil est nisi pontus et aer," • 
 for there was neither sea nor sky to be seen-nothing 
 but fog, fog. At ave o'clock in the afternoon the fog 
 hfte^ and we found ourselves near some islands, but 
 whether Bamea or Burgeo (the place of our destina- 
 lon) was doubtful. We stood towards them to ascer- 
 tam, but violent rain came on, which again hid the 
 shore , and as the wind was shifting, and inclined to 
 Wow strong with a heavy tide, it was necessary to 
 stand off, and thus our hope of reaching a harbour to- 
 night was again defeated. In this difficulty I remem- 
 bered with some sorrow and self-reproach, that I had 
 been slow to promise a passage to a poor fisherman, 
 who asked me to convey him from Harbour Briton 
 to Burgeo, and whose knowledge of the coast might 
 perhaps have resolved our doubts about the land 
 ahead, and have enabled us to run for a harbour. 
 In the mean time, before my departure, he shipped 
 on board a merchant vessel as a sailor. I felt that 
 I had deserved this disappointment, and more, and 
 my reflections were not made more comfortable by 
 knowing that others, for my fault, must suffer with me. 
 Smda!,, J^ly 16.- We lay-to all last night, with 
 
 • " Look where you will, there 's nought but sea and sky.- 
 
 OviD. Triat. ii. 2?. 
 
in 
 
 20 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 ■ '( 
 
 a heavy swell and baffling winds, a strong current, 
 and thick fog. Under such circumstances it was 
 not possible to know our whereabouts this morning. 
 We caught a glimpse of the land early, but only 
 for a moment, and we saw nothing more of it till 
 about one o'clock, when we discovered an island on 
 our lee-bow. However, the fog soon hid the land 
 from us, and after three o'clock we did not again 
 see it. We celebrated full Service at eleven and 
 half-past three o'clock ; and, bating the uncertainty 
 of our position, and the certainty that we were 
 not at Burgeo, (where we so much desired to be,) 
 the day passed quickly and pleasantly. 
 ; Monday, July 1 7.— Between six and seven o'clock 
 the Captain took me on deck, having made land 
 which he did not know. I recognised Little Ire- 
 land at the mouth of La Poele Bay, full thirty miles 
 to the westward of, and therefore so far beyond, our 
 destination. The Captain would hardly be per- 
 suaded he was so far beyond Burgeo ; but he stood 
 in, and fired two guns, and soon after, to our great .. 
 satisfaction, we heard a conch, which showed that 
 our signal had been noticed, and that some boat was 
 in search of us. We then fired a fowling-piece, and 
 in this manner at length came through the fog 
 within hail of a boat and five hands. It was sent 
 from the merchant's establishment on hearing our 
 guns. In no other way could we have entered or 
 found the harbour through the fog. On entering 
 the harbour we wpirp. salntprl h-ir fi^o a. 
 vessels and ti 
 
 .-.f 4k.-. 
 
 house, and my eyes were yet more 
 
LITTLE IRELAND. 
 
 21 
 
 gratified by the sight of a new and neat church 
 and a smaU parsonage near it ; and I heard with no 
 small satisfaction that the Eev. T. Appleby, the 
 Missionary, though not expecting me, was at home. 
 Ihus all things seemed to have been ordered wisely 
 and mercifully. Mr. Mountain had an opportunity 
 of visiting this settlement in his Deanery, which if 
 we had made Burgeo, as we desired, last week,'he 
 probably could not have reached. Mr. and Mrs 
 Cunningham also had the pleasure, which they did 
 not anticipate, of greeting and being greeted by 
 their friends with whom they had resided in St 
 John s. Mr. Appleby was soon on board j and as 
 the morning was exceedingly wet, we had Service in 
 the Church ship instead of going on shore. I was 
 greeted and welcomed with the same kindness as 
 three years ago by Mr. and Mrs. Benouf, and in the 
 evemng we aU drank tea at their house. I was very 
 thankful that Mr. and Mrs. Appleby appeared well 
 and cheerful, and not to suffer in bodily health or in 
 spirits from the trials of a Missionary life. The 
 change from London, where they had constantly 
 resided, to an out-harbour in Newfoundland, must be 
 great indeed, and it is difficult to understand how 
 the mind or body can suddenly adapt itself to such 
 an entire revolution. I imagine that, next to the 
 pleasing thoughts of duty done," the family (domw> 
 et placens uxor) must supply the required excite- 
 
 ^ '" ""^ ^nuuguia ana affections from 
 
 growing cold and stagnant. A wife and family 
 should be a little world-all the world-^r all that 
 
 i,i 
 
DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 is good and necessary in the world, to procure con- 
 tentment, and keep up interest and activity. 
 
 Tmsday, July 18.~After prayers in the church, 
 which is not yet finished, or ready for consecration, 
 we sailed again for Burgeo. We reached the rocks 
 at eight o'clock in the evening. There was a 
 smart shower of rain, attended by a splendid rain- 
 bow, under which, as a grand triumphal arch, or 
 rather as the arch of God's promise and covenanted 
 mercy, we appeared to be entering Burgeo. It wis 
 again necessary to fire for a pilot, as it n p, getting 
 dusk, and the entrance is very narrow. We were at 
 last safely anchored in the desired harbour by nine 
 o'clock. Nobody went on shore from the Church 
 ship this evening ; but many boats came off to us 
 with the old "ancient" inquiry— 
 
 lit ; TtoQw fh kvZpuv ', irori roi trdhis ;* 
 
 Wednesday, July 19. -Mr. Cunningham was 
 formally inducted into possession of the church of 
 Lower Burgeo by the Rural Dean (Mr. Mountain) 
 at half-past ten o'clock, and at eleven o'clock we had 
 Divine Service in his church. Mr. Cunningham 
 said the prayers, Mr. Mountain read the lessons, 
 and I preached. The attendance was good, con- 
 sidering the short notice ir^d the busy time. At 
 half-past six we had eveninp- . , , e, and I l attend- 
 ance was larger than in the morning. Mr. Mountain 
 preached. A fine day ; much enjoyed after the rain, 
 and fogs, and disappointment of last week. 
 
 TT nai an inou? Hay, from whence, from whom you came." 
 
 HoMEE, Od. K. 325. 
 
UPPER BUKGEO. 
 
 23 
 
 July 20.— We started a little before ten o'clock, 
 in two four-oared boats, for Upper Burgeo. Mr! 
 Cunningham was inducted into this church, as 
 yesterday at Lower Burgeo, and we held Divine 
 Service accordingly. After the service I was met at 
 the door of the church by most of the men of the 
 settlement, who desired to know what stipend 
 I should expect for the minister, and expressed 
 themselves ready to do their duty. They appear 
 sincere ; and as they are not so dependent on the 
 merchants as their neighbours at Lower Burgeo, 
 they have better means. I visited old William 
 Anderson and his wife, whose manners and appear- 
 ance had pleased me so much at my former visit, 
 three years ago. I recognised his venerable white 
 head on my first landing, and he waited to make 
 his obeisance. His wife, the mother in and of 
 Israel in this settlement, greeted me with much 
 native kindness and politeness. She was in great 
 affliction, through the loss of a daughter, who had 
 died soon after confinement, and left three small 
 children. She very feeUngly lamented the want of 
 a Clergyman to read prayers at her daughter's 
 funeral Mr. Appleby was the nearest at that time 
 (thirty miles off) ; and the risk of delay in sending 
 and returning so far by sea prevented the attempt. 
 For three months their church had not been 
 served, and they all seemed truly delighted at the 
 prospect of again having Divine Service, and the 
 Visits of a Clergyman. Here is a good specimen of 
 a Newfoundland planter and planter's family ; easy 
 
24. 
 
 MOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 n ■ 
 
 n manner and speech, serioa^ and gentle , and yet 
 their hfe « or has been, of the hardest and most 
 
 winter ret.nng to the woods. But by industry 
 and pnidence they are placed, through God's bless^ 
 ing, in independent circumstances, and are re 
 spected and honoured by a large circle of relations 
 «d neighbours After this conference we returned 
 to the Church ship by two o'clock. Payers in the 
 
 t» r T i^ ^^-^y ''•''•«"« ^i-xJ^ Mr. Moun- 
 tain has been detained here three days, not, however 
 unpleasantly to himself, or unprofitably. m;! 
 Cunningham's furniture and belongings were re 
 moved from the Church ship ,o his ifttle wood'n 
 p^sonage and I saw all arranged oomfor'bt! 
 Iinspected the school, and examined and oatechi.e^ 
 the chil^en carefully, and was on the whole well 
 pleased though of course some defects were detected, 
 which were pointed out, and remedies suggested 
 
 i;7^:f \^f «-»- ^^-"-tancefof the' 
 place. The children are intelligent and gentle, and 
 the master is kind and willing, and it is a pity that 
 more is not made of these raw materials'-'z)^ 
 /aa:U Prayers at church morning and evening. 
 
 Saturday Jul;, 22. -After morning prayers 
 1 inspected the church and parsonage-ho'se' m" 
 Brown drew a plan of the former. It has been 
 enlarged and improved since my last visit, bv the 
 uuu.™n or an aisle on the north side, running the 
 whole length of the church. This mode of enllrge! 
 
PABSONAOE-HOUSE. 25 
 
 ment was adopted at my request, instead of a gallery 
 •t the west end, which had been contemplated and 
 all but commenced. Sixty additional sittings have 
 been provided, and a vestry, and the church 
 strengthened by the alteration. Further alterations 
 were suggested as improvements, if times improve. 
 The parsonage-house is in pretty good repair, but 
 sadly wants paint, both inside and outside. The 
 rest of the day I employed in writing on board, 
 and m transferring my clothes, &c. to my own 
 cabin, now made vacant. A large party of swarthy 
 Indm^s (fourteen or fifteen) arrived to-day in a 
 boat from St. Peter's. A man and boy wafted to 
 speak to me as I returned in the evening .rom the 
 parsonage. They speak English imperfectly; and 
 I did not hold much conversation with them, as 
 
 M^r '""°"°'" ^'^^'"■'' ^^'^ "^' ^ '""'^«' 
 
 Sunday, July 23.-Mountain still detained by 
 
 adverse winds. A boat came from Upper Burgeo 
 
 Z:ZT: ^'«'=C'""<' --e a^d celebrte 
 the Lord s Supper. The fog was so thick, that they 
 did not venture to come that short distance (not 
 four mi es) along the shore without a compU 
 Mr. Hoyles returned with them 
 
 cattchiid?r\";r "'''"""^ ' "*"* »" ^j^-^- ^-^ 
 
 catechized the children at the Sunday-school. Ser- 
 vice commenced at half-past ten o'clock. The 
 emargeu church nearly full, Mr. Cunninghar- said 
 the prayers, Mr. Mountain read the lessons, 1,Z 
 brated and preached. Thirty-three communicant! 
 
26 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 f I 
 
 aili 
 
 !| 
 
 besides the Clergj. The whole congregation 
 orderly and attentive, which circumstance I must 
 attribute in some degree to the good arrangement 
 of the church, and the absence of the projected 
 gallery. I took a hasty half dinner, and started 
 soon after two o'clock in a boat, with Mr. Cun- 
 ningham and Brown, for Upper Burgeo. The same 
 crew came for us as for Mr. Hoyles in the morning. 
 We arrived about a quarter past three o'clock. 
 I was pleased at finding a very nice looking set of 
 children forming a Sunday-school. They meet 
 every Sunday in the church, and are instructed by 
 one of the planters, named Stickland. Cunning- 
 ham said the prayers, Mr. Hoyles read the lessons, 
 and I preached. A child who had been baptized 
 by a planter was brought to be admitted into the 
 Church. After service I called on my old friend 
 the patriarch, William Anderson, and found a 
 house full of children and grandchildren assembled. 
 My own boat came for me in the evening. We 
 drank tea on board ; and while we were trying to 
 praise God « in hymnis et canticis,'' all being calm 
 and still, there came a sudden squall, which 
 whistled through the rigging with a noise like 
 rushing water. The noise was so loud, sudden 
 and strange, that we ran on deck to discover the 
 cause. It was a violent north-easter, which con- 
 tinued to blow all the night, and eflPectually cleared 
 the sky. I looked out, according to promise, some 
 booRsior the children of the Sunday-school, and a 
 Bible for Mr. Stickland, and a few other presents 
 
ST. George's bat. 
 
 27 
 
 of a similar sort to those who I thought wonld 
 appreciate them , and so was concluded a very 
 happy, and, I trust, not an unproBtable Sabbath 
 
 Monday, July 24.-Mr. Mountain was sum- 
 moned soon after five o'clock, and started to return 
 to Harbour Briton along the coast, full seventy 
 ffli es, in a boat, intending, or hoping, to call at most 
 of the intermediate stations. Before seven o'clock 
 I sent for Mr. Cunningham, to give him my last 
 injunctions and my blessing; and about half-past 
 seven we loosed off, and in little more than an 
 hour the Church ship had passed all the dangerous 
 sunken rocks of that locaUly. We then hoisted our 
 square sa.1, and with a fair wind, and plenty of it 
 went forward rapidly and pleasantly. By ten 
 o clock we were off Cape Bay. 
 
 Tuesday July 25._St. James's Day. After our 
 rapid and pleasant progress came a night of tossing, 
 followed by a day of trouble and disappointment! 
 It blew very heavily in the night, and we were 
 dose-reefed and made but little way, and had no 
 rest. By eight o'clock in the morning, however, we 
 were well up Bay St. George, and I began to hope 
 we might reach Sandy Point and the church soon 
 enough for Divine Service, for the vessel rolled so 
 much, and some of our party were so sick, that 
 I had httle hope of holding service on board. But 
 the jind lulled, and there was no possibility of 
 reac„=ng tne church before noon, though now (at 
 eleven o'clock) in sight, and I therefore celebrated 
 the service for the saint's day, but none of the crew 
 
 ' 'it 
 
28 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 could attend. As we drew near, and saw no flag 
 hoisted at the church to salute us, I began to fear 
 that Mr. Meek, the Clergyman, was not at home 
 Presently, however, the flag did go up, but no boat 
 came to greet or meet us ; and not until we had 
 been at anchor nearly half an hour did a small boat 
 with two hands come off; and then the fact was 
 made manifest and declared to us, that Mr. and 
 Mrs. Meek had been gone to St. John's nearly a 
 month. Here is a specimen of the delays and dis- 
 appointments of a visitation by sea along such a 
 coast and country as ours. After my voyage of 500 
 miles, through fog and foam, my object is wholly 
 defeated, and the trouble and expense, as far as the 
 proposed results in this locality are concerned, en- 
 tirely thrown away. I not only miss the sight of 
 Mr. Meek, (whom I have not seen for three years,) 
 and the conference with him, which I so much 
 desired, on the state of his Mission and School, but 
 I cannot give Confirmation or the Holy Sacrament, 
 neither of which sacred offices has been administered 
 smce my last visit three years ago. And, no doubt, 
 his disappointment will equal mine. I find he did 
 not leave home without some misgivings, but as he 
 had not received the notice I sent him last autumn 
 of my mtended visit and its purpose, he was unwil- 
 Img to miss an opportunity which offered, and which 
 offers very rarely, of a direct conveyance to St. 
 John's, and thence back to St. Georse's Bav. Fa 
 had not left his Mission for four years; and the 
 vessel which was bringing his supplies last fall being 
 
 4 
 
ST. George's bat. 29 
 
 unfortunately wrecked, the condition of himself 
 and family, in respect of food and raiment, had 
 been much straitened.* Such is Newfoundland— 
 and such a Bishop's Visitation. Prayers in the 
 church at half-past six o'clock, when I delivered an 
 address. 
 
 Wednesday, July 26.~Prayers in the church at 
 nine o'clock. I again addressed the congregation. 
 I was referred to after the service respecting two 
 men, whom the inhabitants had put in irons, and 
 kept m close confinement, for having cruelly beaten 
 and nearly killed a neighbour. As this settlement 
 13 not recognised by the government (being on that 
 part of the coast where the French have a concur- 
 rent right of fishing, and of drying their fish), there 
 IS no magistrate, or constable, or officer of any 
 degree. The inhabitants, therefore, are obliged to 
 take the law into their own hands, and in the 
 absence of their Prophet were in some difficulty as 
 to their proceedings. The culprits are to be kept 
 in durance till the arrival of a ship of war, which 
 annually visits the place, the Captain of which has 
 authority to hear such causes and grant redress, or 
 punish, as may be necessary. 
 
 ne inhabitants of this settlement, and generaUy 
 
 of St. Georges Bay, are of a different origin and 
 
 » It appeared that m, letter, giving notice of my intention 
 
 r.f r.*™;i'!^f '?T '«« »— . "-• -n L in this 
 
 He'ihld "Z '"% "T "™ ^ ™n>m»nication was suspended. 
 
 L St j1„"/ '. '''""'" "^^ '''*^' "' eommn^cation 
 iroin at. Johns for nine months. 
 
1 fl) 
 
 111 
 
 30 
 
 llllili 
 
 II III 
 
 H 
 
 ) I ' 
 ! 
 
 i 
 
 MM tr 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 Character from those of the settlers and fishermen in 
 other parts of Newfoundland. They are chiefly 
 from Canada and the United States, and their trade 
 is almost exclusively in herrings, which they convey 
 to Canada and Nova Scotia. They do not appear so 
 hardy and laborious as their neighbours (if neigh- 
 bours they can be called, 100 miles distant,) in 
 other parts of Newfoundland, which may be owing 
 to the very easy manner in which their chief sub- 
 sistence, the herring, is procured. There are very 
 few gardens or enclosures, which is a natural con- 
 sequence of the unsettled and uncertain tenure of 
 the land, and the want of protection. The soil is 
 good, and exceedingly well adapted to cultivation 
 and produces good pasture ; and the climate is more 
 genial than on the eastern shore. There are more 
 houses than at my last visit, but apparently not 
 many more animals, nor much improvement or ex- 
 tension of cultivation. The glebe which we marked 
 out has not been enclosed or broken up, though 
 I believe, if the Clergyman had leisure and know- 
 ledge to cultivate it, the returns would be very pro- 
 fitable. The Church, Parsonage, and School-house 
 le close together on the glebe, and though the two 
 latter are very humble, the church is, as it should 
 be, the chief ornament of the settlement. Besides 
 the members of the Church, in number about 200 
 there is a settlement of French Acadians, who are 
 professed Roman Catholics, but they have been left 
 J J -v^i^- rT:.„xxoui me ixnuiHiraiions ot religion 
 and are in a deplorable state of poverty and igno' 
 
lermen in 
 e chiefly 
 leir trade 
 ij convey 
 ippear so 
 if neigh- 
 tant,) in 
 36 owing 
 fiief sub- 
 are very 
 iral con- 
 enure of 
 e soil is 
 tivation, 
 is more 
 re more 
 itly not 
 t or ex- 
 marked 
 though 
 know- 
 ry pro- 
 •1-house 
 he two 
 should 
 besides 
 It 200, 
 ho are 
 en left 
 iigion, 
 igno- 
 
 STATIONS FOB CLERGY. 3] 
 
 ranee. After Evening Service I took leave of the 
 congregation and people. 
 
 bat httle progress. In the afternooi. the wind en- 
 fardy d,ed away, and we were becalmed off the low 
 and which divides this Bay from Port au P rl 
 
 mhabuants, nearly all members of the Church ; 
 500 of these are situated at or near Sandy Point 
 and 00 at the Barrysways. about twenty-one miles 
 
 tl:»i ™" " """^ '■'""•^ ^<""«*'"«« t'^o houses 
 together somefmes a lonely family. It fa too pain- 
 ful y certain that a Deacon, acting as Schoolmaster 
 which IS Mr. Meek-s position at Sandy Point, canno 
 visit or minister to these scattered sheep, or even to 
 h.s own more compact flock, as the Church would 
 desire, and as their spiritual needs and necessities 
 imperatively demand. A Priest should reside at 
 Sandy Point, who should have the whole Bay under 
 h.s charge, with, perhaps, also the Bay of Islands 
 and Bonne Bay, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. 
 These would make up a flock, or flocks, exceeding 
 m number 1,000 souls. There should of course be 
 a Schoohnaater, under the Clergyman, at Sandy 
 Point and the Bay of Islands. Another Clergyman 
 
 Snv '" fT'' T"" ^"P^ ^''^' -l'" -■gl'' visit 
 Codroy and the other settlements near the Cape, 
 (which, I fear, havn r,M =«.>„ . r.i._. *^ ' 
 
 4i,«~ <• .1 " '^'urgyman among 
 
 them for three years,) would make the chain com- 
 
32 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 plete, and embrace all this coast with the « cords of 
 love and bands of a man." 
 Friday, July 28.-Ti;e wind rose in the early 
 
 Can.tr "'^ ' ^f '"'''' """^ " sale. We passed 
 Cape St George about midnight, and had dire tosa- 
 ings We were again surrounded by fog this morn- 
 ing, but ,t cleared off at noon, and the day became 
 hne and we made great progress with a fair wind. 
 Saturday July 29.-Early this morning we saw 
 the Labrador or North American eoast. At one 
 clock we made out vessels and houses ; and about 
 four clock we entered a large harbour or roadsted. 
 wh ch turned out to be Porteau Bay, the very plac^ 
 which I wished to visit first on this shore. This 
 was the more pleasing, as no person on board had 
 ever been m that part of the country. A boat came 
 to meet us, and we were delighted to see on board a 
 fr-end from St. John's, who has a fishing establish- 
 ment here, at which he resides during the summer, 
 re urmng to St. John's in the month of October 
 There are three more fishing establishments in 
 this bay, connected with houses in Jersey. My 
 Chapkms went on shore, to inquire for some place 
 in which we might celebrate Divine Service to 
 morrow. A store, the largest in the place, was 
 put at our disposal for that purpose by Mr. Le 
 Sealleur, the Agent of the Messrs. Botelier Un- 
 fortunately, we were too late to send notice of an 
 intended service to any neighbouring harbours. 
 Sunday, July 30.-Messrs. Hoyles «n^ w< 
 
 I 0't**r«-*'* 
 
KWVISIONAt, CHAPEL. 33 
 
 went early on shore to arrange the store for Divine 
 service. The cabin of the Church ship is 2 
 large enough and it would be otherwise U cC- 
 venient Pains were taken on this and every like 
 occasion to niake the arrangements as decl[ „a 
 church-hke as the circumstances would allow A 
 table, placed at one end of the room, was covered 
 
 .exhibited the beautiful chali<.p o„^ . 
 
 to the Church ship, b,' Si^/TeZ::^. 
 
 space was kept free on each side and inZt oJ.'he 
 table, spread with a sail or flags. The Agenfs 
 desk covered with a cloth, and a flag with f ml 
 
 ana lectern. (There is a handsome oak lectern 
 
 and placed near the door; on this t^^hZZ T ' 
 font hnei'r. A > "" lois table stood my 
 
 lont basin. A very handsome quarto Prayer-book 
 and Bible, presented to the M in IW were 
 
 with difficulty procured, to stand on either side of 
 the holy table. Flour barrels and lumL v^ere 
 placed about the room as seats and kneelinl sZ 
 for the congregation. We robed in the A^^s 
 offic^ near to the store, and walked thence t' prl! 
 cession. I was surprised and pleased to find the 
 
 store nearly full. t.roh»w„ L. , , " *"* 
 
 _ /. ■ ' '^ ""■' ""^ "uuured and thirt«- 
 
 n^en four women, and three or four girls. ' 
 
 Mr. Hoyles took his place at the prayernlesk, 
 
 
 
34 
 
 DI0CB8E OF BEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 Lhl mV^""- """'^ ""'"■*«' ''<»« "■« holy 
 
 tab e. Mr. Brown waa near us. to lead the singing. 
 Notice was g,ven after the Nicene Creed, that any 
 persons desirous and prepared to receive the Lord's 
 Supper might signify their wish; but, alas! no person 
 was prepared : notice was also given that the Sacra- 
 ment of Baptism would be administered during the 
 service m the afternoon. I then preached. We 
 returned to the Church ship after service, and our 
 friend, who had first met us as we entered the bay, 
 with his partner, dined on board. At the afternoon 
 service the attendance was not quite so We 
 Many who had attended in the morning were 
 French Canadians and Roman Catholics, who did 
 not understand English. There were several now 
 present who had not been able to arrive in the 
 morning particularly a large and respectable family 
 from LAnse a Mort, who had great difficulty i„ 
 getting across the bay against a strong head-wind. 
 
 int^l TrT T* ^~"^''* *° ^ ""P'-'^^-J or received 
 into the Church. Godfathe.^ and godmothers were 
 
 with some difficulty procured for all. Notice was 
 given that marriages would be celebrated to-morrow 
 morning. I made an extemporaneous address. 
 After service I walked round the bay, and called at 
 the rooms of the diiferent captains, or agents, from 
 Jersey, and at the house of one Mr. Cribb. a settler 
 I learnt from him that the only clergyman known 
 to have visited this bay was Mr. Cusack, (sent 
 J. presume, bv fhp ■Ri'ai.^r. ^i" TIT— . ,v . ' 
 
 , — ^.^^^^ „, Tuuiureai,; about eiffht 
 
 years ago. He baptized some of Cribb's children, 
 
the holj 
 e singing. 
 
 that any 
 he Lord's 
 no person 
 he Sacra- 
 uring the 
 ed. We 
 
 and our 
 
 the bay, 
 ifternoon 
 io large, 
 ig were 
 who did 
 Jral now 
 
 in the 
 e family 
 sulty in 
 d-wind. 
 eceived 
 rs were 
 ice was 
 norrow 
 ddress. 
 tiled at 
 3, from 
 settler, 
 known 
 
 (sent, 
 i; eight 
 ildren, 
 
 THE SISTTLERS—THE CREWS. 35 
 
 and left a certificate to that effect, but performed no 
 other service Mr r^iuu -^ F^riormea no 
 
 Christ rlT\ TT ' '* appeared, came from 
 
 Chn t Church, m Hampshire, and settled her^ 
 a ut twenty years ago. He married, or took as 
 wi e the daughter of the only settler at that time 
 in the place. They have never had an opportuZ 
 of being married otherwise than by testifvinJT- 
 consent and covenant before wit^e^t'^ hVc^ 
 
 used a Prayer-book at our service in the store. He 
 has endeavoured to teach his children ; and h s two 
 daughters (the eldest fourteen years old) re^^^^^^^^^ 
 to me the Creed pretty correctlyUnd a youn^r to^ 
 the Lord's Prayer- hnf ^h^- "^'"ungerboy 
 
 imperfect Hfha; ^r S ""'7 ^"^ ^'^^ 
 TI.O :, children, all born here 
 
 BTt f- u^ «^''''"««<i his Bible and Prayer- 
 Book, which he had brought from England. ^ 
 
 The agents, or captains of the crews, are aU 
 Jerseyxnen. and have frequented this b y eve^ 
 summer for twenty.five years and upwards TW 
 
 return in October, generally sending awav fm™ 
 Jh establishment one vessel loaded, fn IZ'JZ 
 
 trom Jer ey, and average fifty men. One woman 
 accompanies each crew as cook. It may eXbe 
 supposed that, in the absence of all reUri us Su' 
 tion and supervision, tl,. iif„ .i- .. . ° . >nstruc- 
 
 less and ungodly. There" Zl Z ^'^^'" " *""'■ 
 5 "V Anere is no pubhc service on tliA 
 
 Sunday, nor other .acred observance of the dly! 
 
 nl 
 
 In 
 
 M 
 
 n 
 
36 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 
 which it may be feared is often spent in worse than 
 idleness. They do not commonly fish on that day ; 
 but there is an express proviso in the articles they 
 sign, that they shall work on Sundays if required. 
 They turn the fish on the flakes, if necessary, and 
 go in quest of bait ; but the common occupation of 
 the Sabbath is the washing of clothes. The only 
 book I saw of a religious character or purpose in 
 the Agent's house, was a Report on the state of the 
 Missions of the Wesleyan Methodists, in French, 
 and printed at Paris. The Jerseymen generally 
 converse in the French language, and several of 
 them hardly understand English. Such is the 
 condition of these fishermen for four months of the 
 year ; and the want of religious instruction at the 
 time when domestic ties and social restraints are 
 also removed, must, in the common course of things, 
 issue in great ungodliness. The Sunday evening 
 is too commonly spent (by those who may not be 
 engaged in catching bait) in dancing and singing, 
 or other such amusements. The few resident fami- 
 lies will of course be influenced by the examples 
 and invitations of the strangers. The prospect is 
 very disheartening, and I returned to my Church 
 ship in much grief. 
 
 Monday i July 31. — Messrs. Hoyles and Harvey 
 went on shore to marry and baptize. The parties 
 to be married had been, in each case, united before 
 witnesses, and living together as man and wife. 
 After that service, we all went in a boat to 
 L'Anse k Mort, to visit a very respectable person. 
 
WANT OP CHURCH ORDINANCES. 
 
 S7 
 
 who has been living on the Labrador and opposite 
 coast for nearly thirty years, and during that long 
 time has not, he says, seen a Clergyman. He came 
 from Dorchester, and acted for some time as agent 
 to Mr. Bird, who had establishments on both 
 shores. On those establishments being broken up, 
 he purchased a cottage and some land at this spot* 
 and by fishing and killing seals, has acquired con- 
 siderable means. He took a wife from Newfound- 
 land in the usual way of public attestation, and has 
 nine children. The eldest daughter is married, or 
 united, in the same manner as her parents. The 
 old gentleman has built a large house, and keeps 
 several cows, and has all the comforts which the 
 Labrador can furnish, and many more. He is evi- 
 dently much attached to the spot ; but, in a laudable 
 anxiety to obtain instruction and religious training 
 for his children, he has reluctantly determined to 
 remove to Halifax, leaving his son-in-law to carry 
 on his business. He requested that all his children 
 might be baptized, and his daughter married, which 
 I agreed should be done to-morrow. No attempt is 
 made at cultivating the soil, beyond a garden of 
 green herbs, as lettuce, turnips, and radishes. 
 Potatoes will not ripen, and the turnips are com- 
 monly cut as greens. 
 
 After much interesting conversation with the 
 family, we walked on to L'Anse a Loup, about 
 tnree miles further by land. There is no road, but 
 the land is level, and covered with moss and grass 
 and an abundance of wild flowers. Here is a large 
 
 U 
 
38 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 fiahing establishment, probably the largest on the 
 Labrador coast, belonging to a gentleman at Tor- 
 quay. One hundred and thirty men are employed 
 during the summer. These are chiefly from St. 
 John's; but the crews of the vessels and the 
 oflicers of the establishment are from England. At 
 this establishment, and those before mentioned in 
 Forteau Bay, from six to eight men remain in the 
 winter to protect the property, &c. During the 
 winter they make excursions into the interior, to 
 bring down wood for the different uses of the 
 establishment, and to trap the martens and foxes. 
 The wood is brought dr n on large slides, or cata- 
 marans, called " com^tiques," drawn by dogs. The 
 number of dogs kept for that purpose is very large. 
 One person told me he /osahirty-three, and another 
 twenty-six, by disease last winter, and yet the num- 
 ber in their establishments seemed sufficiently large. 
 The condition of the people in this bay is precisely 
 similar, as to religious ordinances and instruction, 
 to that of their neighbours at Forteau ; that is, they 
 have none. Besides the residents at the merchant's 
 house, there is one family, the head of which is an 
 Englishman, settled in this bay. There are no 
 Indians living on this part of the coast, except two 
 poor women, one a servant, and the other called a 
 wife, at Forteau. They had come from the north ; 
 and the married woman can read and write the 
 — j_...,„„^ ^isij,„^i„„^, j^^^ wiutt; oui ine jLord's 
 Prayer for me, and pretty correctly, as I found by 
 comparing it with the printed book. The Agent 
 
I 
 
 WANT OP CHURCH ORDINANCES. 39 
 
 at L'Anse k Loup assured me that the Sunday is 
 strictly observed as regards cessation from work • 
 but I could not find that there is any reading of 
 the Bible, or any meeting for prayer or praise, or 
 any recognition of God and his Church. We 
 returned by the way we came, and our good friend 
 at UAnse a Mort had prepared tea for us ; but 
 I did not tarry, as the evening was drawing in and 
 the wind ahead. We did not reach the Church 
 ship till after sunset. It was a day which afforded 
 muchfoodfor meditation and supplication. Earnestly 
 did I pray that I may be enabled to make some 
 provision for the spiritual wants of these multitudes, 
 ^vmg, it must be feared, without God, at least 
 during all their sojourn in this place. 
 
 Tuesday August I.-This morning, accordin- to 
 promise Messrs. Harvey and Hoyles paid a second 
 visit to LAnse k Mort, to receive the children into 
 the Church, and marry the young couple. The 
 old gentleman gave a handsome donation to the 
 Newfoundland CJiurch Society, besides making the 
 usual offering for the marriage of his daughter. I did 
 not attend, but took an opportunity during the day 
 of agam calling on the agents of the Jersey houses, 
 and had some serious conversation with them. One 
 of them spoke of his manner of life with regret, on 
 account of his separation from the ordinances of 
 rehgion and the means of grace, and the comm-n 
 neglect and frequent desecration of the Sabbath 
 He expressed his intention of seeking some employ- 
 ment in which he might enjoy those religious 
 
 ! .% 
 
 
40 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND^ 
 
 advantages now denied him. All the agents were 
 civil and obliging. AH have been busy to-day in 
 hauling herrings, which have come into the bay in 
 such numbers, that the water seems alive. Any 
 quantity might be taken ; but the establishments 
 are too much occupied with the "fish" {i.e. the cod- 
 fish) at present, to wish to take more than about 
 twenty barrels. Later in the season they will be less 
 busy with the "fish," and the herrings will be finer. 
 The quantity taken at one haul is sometimes pro- 
 digious-a hundred barrels at a time. Such is 
 nature's market. The quantity hauled to-day by 
 the three houses, and disposed of between the 
 Whiles of the cod-fishery, was probably worth 50/. 
 or 601. They are much finer, and consequently 
 command a higher price, than the herrings on the 
 Newfoundland coast. 
 
 Wednesday, August 2.~The wind blew so strong 
 last night, with heavy rain, that our captain, who 
 was on shore, could not return to the ship. I had 
 intended to proceed this morning, but, partly on 
 account of the high sea, and partly because there 
 was yet work to be done here, I was persuaded to 
 delay my departure. I went on shore with my 
 Chaplains after breakfast ; and while I remained 
 at the house of Mr. Ellis, the merchant of New- * 
 foundland, they visited an Englishman, who was 
 married, or united, to a poor Indian woman, an 
 Esquimaux, and who, we understood, had childrpn 
 to De Daptized. We had heard that the woman 
 was a Roman Catholic j but she distinctly assured 
 
WANT OF CLERGYMEN. 
 
 41 
 
 its were 
 ►-day in 
 » bay in 
 . Any 
 jhments 
 the cod- 
 fi about 
 be less 
 •e finer. 
 es pro- 
 luch is 
 day by 
 en the 
 th 50/. 
 [uently 
 on the 
 
 strong 
 1, who 
 
 I had 
 tly on 
 
 there 
 led to 
 h my 
 lained 
 New- • 
 ) was 
 n, an 
 Idren 
 
 Oman 
 sured 
 
 us that was not the case, and that no Esquimaux are 
 Roman Catholics. She had the New Testament 
 and some other books in her own language, which 
 she could read. She wrote also fairly, better than 
 most women who had been educated at a National 
 School would write in English after some con- 
 siderable disuse. She had been married before to 
 one of her own tribe, who had died. A child by 
 that marriage is living with her. Her present hus- 
 band, if so he may be called, had, he said, been 
 deserted by his wife in England. Under these cir- 
 cumstances I could not consent to his being married 
 to this woman. But was the poor woman to be 
 turned away who knew nothing of these circum- 
 stances, and who spoke English so imperfectly that 
 we could not make her understand them, and who 
 had, no friends to help or advise her? And if the 
 man's story be true, he is virtually, by the law of 
 God, divorced from his first wife for her adultery. 
 This is one of the distressing and perplexing cases 
 of too frequent occurrence, it may be feared, in 
 these lonely places. 
 
 We were taken across the bay by two English- 
 men, who arrived last night in their whale-boat 
 from Bradore. They have been living in this 
 country eight years without having once seen a 
 Clergyman. They were very anxious we should 
 visit their neighbourhood, and assured us of a 
 hearty welcome from their master. They expressed 
 also an earnest wish to purchase Bibles and Prayer- 
 books, which they afterwards did of the largest 
 
42 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 Size, and most willingly paid the price. Some of 
 the residents in Forteau did the same, and seemed 
 dehghted to get them so cheap. All these parties 
 earnestly prayed that a Clergyman might be sent 
 to reside among them, and promised to give, accord- 
 ing to their means, to his support ; and they con- 
 fidently asserted that, with the assistance of their 
 neighbours on the opposite coast of Newfoundland 
 a sufficient maintenance might be provided. The 
 harvest surely is ripe, if not plenteous ; and what 
 remains, but to pray the Lord of the harvest to 
 send forth a labourer into his harvest. We looked 
 out a convenient site for a church, if it should 
 please God that one may hereafter be erected here 
 to his glory through Jesus Christ. We selected a 
 spot near the centre of the bay, easily accessible, 
 and where a church might be seen by all vessels 
 passing through the straits. Deusfaxit. 
 
 Thursday, August 3.-Left Forteau Bay with a 
 fair wind at ten o'clock. The progress was very 
 rapid till about five o'clock, when the wind came 
 ahead. We were then nearly off Belle Isle. We 
 wished to get into Henley Harbour, but before 
 night the wind altogether failed us. The night 
 however, was clear and fine, with a beautiful new 
 moon. There were many icebergs about us, the 
 first we have seen since leaving St. John's ,• and 
 snow still remains in patches on the coast. The 
 phosphoric light wa.^ remarkably brilliant and beau= 
 tiful I the vessel appv^ared to pass through a stream 
 of fiery balls, the size of a nutmeg, leaving a track 
 
BATTLE HARBOUR. 
 
 48 
 
 Some of 
 seemed 
 ' parties 
 be sent 
 accord - 
 ley con- 
 of their 
 mdland, 
 I The 
 id what 
 'vest to 
 looked 
 should 
 3d here 
 ected a 
 essible, 
 vessels 
 
 with a 
 s very 
 i came 
 . We 
 before 
 night, 
 il new 
 IS, the 
 ; and 
 The 
 
 tream 
 track 
 
 of light. We have been afloat a month to-day, 
 without hurt or accident. God be praised! 
 
 Fridai/, August 4.— We did not make six miles 
 in the night. A slight breeze sprung up about 
 eight o'clock this morning. Passed Cape Charles 
 at eleven, and at one o'clock were safely anchored 
 in Battle Harbour, where, to our surprise, we found 
 quite a fleet of fishing vessels of all sorts and sizes 
 from various parts of Newfoundland. The harbour 
 is a long and very narrow tickle, between Carabou 
 and Great Battle Island,* a quarter of a mile in 
 length, and about 200 yards wide. The shores are 
 quite barren. The stratification is remarkable. 
 Nearly all the strata are horizontal, but bent in 
 curves, and of various character and colour ; some 
 quite white, others red, &c. In this harbour the 
 Messrs. Slade, of Poole, have an establishment. 
 Messrs. Harvey and Hoyles caUed upon the Agent, 
 to inform him of my presence and purpose, at which 
 he expressed much satisfaction. No Clergyman of 
 the Church is ever remembered to have visited this 
 harbour, which has a permanent population of nearly 
 200 souls, and during the summer from 800 to 
 1000 strangers. The Agent (Mr. Rush Bendle) 
 kindly promised to give us any information we 
 might require, and e i ery assistance in his power. 
 
 At this time there are ninety-two vessels in the 
 harbour, with crews averaging seven or eight men. 
 — ^,„, Tvoouio wiiiig wuiiieu ana girls, wno are 
 
 * The place is named Battle Island in commemoration of 
 a battle fought there betwee:i two tribes of Indians. 
 
44 
 
 DIOCESE OP NETTPOUNDLAND. 
 
 employed in washing and drying the fish. Others 
 take away the fish in a green state, and dry them at 
 W. For the last three years the fishery has been 
 very successful, and the daily catch is now very 
 iai^e. It .s computed some days at 2,000 quintals ; 
 the average value of each quintal when cured will 
 
 Lfif t 7 ' *"" *^' ''''^^"'^ "'"'^^ considerable 
 profit by the seals, which they kill close to their 
 
 iarbour, with comparatively little trouble or ex- 
 pense. The seals are caught in nets, and dragged 
 to land over the ice by dogs, which are kept here, 
 
 'SlaSTKr 'r ^'■''* ""'"'''"• ^'•^ '"^'' «' Messrs. 
 Slade s establishment, about ten in number, killed last 
 
 winter upwards of 1,100 seals, which, being all full- 
 grown, andof a large size, average U each in value. 
 This IS probably the oldest, as well as the largest, 
 settlement on the Labrador coast. The heads of 
 the families are partly from Newfoundland and 
 partly from England, and, tiU within a few years 
 were nearly all members of the Church. Some 
 men, however, have lately married Roman Catholic 
 women from Newfoundland, and on occasion of the 
 priest visiting the harbour seven or eight years a»o 
 were persuaded to profess the Roman Catholic 
 religion, and their children were baptized by the 
 pnest The children are numerous, and their 
 parents are very desirous of obtaining a school, and 
 would willingly support one. There is no nnhl.V 
 service of religion , the Agent reads part of the 
 funeral service at the burial of the dead. There 
 
IMMENSE ICEBERG. 
 
 u 
 
 Others 
 them at 
 has been 
 3w very 
 uintals ; 
 red will 
 mployed 
 iderable 
 to their 
 or ex- 
 ^ragged 
 )t here, 
 IMessrs. 
 lied last 
 ill full- 
 value, 
 argest, 
 sads of 
 id and 
 years, 
 Some 
 itholic 
 of the 
 s ago, 
 tholic 
 y the 
 their 
 1, and 
 'ubiic 
 f the 
 ['here 
 
 are two grave-yards, one in Carabou. and the other 
 on Battle Island, which Mr. Bendle requested me to 
 consecrate. None of the children born here have 
 been baptized otherwise than by lay hands, except 
 the few baptized by the Roman Catholic Clerffyman 
 seven years ago. The marriage service is gene- 
 raUy read by some captain of a vessel. A methodist 
 preacher was here two or three years ago, and he 
 was requested to baptize, but (as is said) he refused 
 without a large fee, which the parents generally 
 were unwilling or unable to pay. The men em- 
 ployed at Messrs. Slade's establishment are now 
 generally from Newfoundland. They used to bring 
 their servants from Dorsetshire, but the frequent 
 desertions made it necessary to obtain them else- 
 where. 
 
 In the evening I walked on the Batt . Island 
 chlfs to admire a prodigious iceberg. It resembled 
 a large and beautiful cathedral, or collegiate build- 
 ing, with towers, spires, pinnacles. &c.. all of gUt- 
 tenng white. I had much conversation with Mr 
 Bendle. who appears a sensible modest young man* 
 and anxious to promote the interests of the place 
 and people, though not likely to remain long amon»- 
 them. He promised to furnish his best store for 
 our Sunday services, and to give the people no- 
 lice, occ* 
 
 Saturday/, August 5.-Messrs. Hoyles and Har- 
 . „„„r, xuiiiisutsu Dj Mr. J5endle, to 
 
 Charles Harbour, about four miles, to inquire re- 
 specting the persons residing at and frequenting that 
 
46 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 Station. They found four resident families, and fifty 
 or more vessels from Newfoundland, with the usual 
 complement of men. They informed the people of 
 our arrival at Battle Harbour, and our intention of 
 holding service, &c. I was writing most of the day ; 
 and in the evening walked alone on Carabou Island* 
 which resembles in most of its features the more 
 barren parts of the coast of Newfoundland, parti- 
 cularly in having many large ponds on the highest 
 land. The moss is perhaps shorter, and the peat 
 drier, and the flowers fewer. There is, however, 
 abundance of the calmia. No trees of any kind near 
 the settlements, but a few miles up the Bay St. 
 ' Louis, plenty of good timber. The houses or cabins 
 are of course much like those in Newfoundland, 
 boards and battens being used on the roof instead of 
 shingles. They seem ill prepared to resist the seve- 
 rity of the winter. Two respectable old planters 
 came on board the Church ship to visit me. One of 
 them bought a Bible and Prayer-book, and asked if 
 I could prescribe for his eyes, which were very weak 
 and sore. I was fc-tunately provided with eye- 
 water, of which I gave him a bottle. Another per- 
 son, a stranger, brought his son on board for advice 
 and medicine, and was supplied. It appears that 
 many persons in the harbour are sick; and there 
 can be little doubt that the quantity of offal-fish on 
 the crowded harbour is, or may be, the cause. 
 
 Swnday, August 6.— Before the Morning Prayers, 
 Mr. Harvey married a couple, resident at Cape 
 Charles, who had before been united by a Eoman 
 
and fifty 
 ;he usual 
 people of 
 jntion of 
 the day ; 
 J Island, 
 he more 
 d, parti- 
 highest 
 :he peat 
 owever, 
 nd near 
 Bay St. 
 r cabins 
 ndland, 
 Jtead of 
 le seve- 
 >lanters 
 One of 
 sked if 
 y weak 
 h eye- 
 er per- 
 advice 
 rs that 
 I there 
 Qsh on 
 
 •ayers, 
 
 Cape 
 
 boman 
 
 DIVINE SERVICE IN A STORE. 47 
 
 Catholic man-servant, who read the marriage ser- 
 v.e out of our Prayer-hookl At half.p:^t te„ 
 
 M B^^^^^^^^^^^ ^ '-^^ P-^^ed hy 
 
 r»r^ „• *''* "PP*"" ■■~"n of a store 
 
 very nicely arranged for Divine service, and my 
 
 fnends had furnished it nearly as at Forteau. Z 
 forms for the congregation were boards placed on 
 tea-chests. The room was crowded; and it w» 
 pleasing to see a much larger admixture of bonnets 
 than at Forteau, though here the men must have 
 been to the women in number as eight or nine to 
 one. After the N.cene Creed, notice was given that 
 t was my intention to consecrate one burial-ground 
 m the morning immediately after Divine Service 
 
 w"ou Id r", i" *^ '''**™°°" ' -^ '■''" Baptil 
 would be celebrated in the afternoon during the 
 
 service Persons prepared to receive the Sacrament 
 of the Lord s Supper were invited to come forward. 
 None, however presented themselves. I preached 
 from notes on the Epistle, endeavouring to suit my 
 discourse to the circumstances of the people, with 
 earnest prayers that some seed might fall on good 
 ground. ° 
 
 After this service Mr. Bendle presented a petition 
 for the consecration of the burial-ground, duly 
 s.gned, which was read aloud by my Chaplain, and 
 we then went in procession to the ground. The 
 grave-yard is in a small valley, entirely surrounded 
 " °='-' - •"■"' ^^>;'=pt a winaing path of entrance 
 and departure. It is a very picturesque spot, and 
 the fishermen and others on the hanging crags. 
 
48 
 
 looking 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 I in admiration, gave much effect to the 
 scene. Afternoon service at three o'clock; the 
 room more crowded than in the morning. After 
 the Second Lesson, a vast number of children of 
 various ages were brought forward to be baptized 
 and received into the Church. I addressed the 
 people, and particularly the God-parents, once and 
 again, on the duty they had to perform. Thirty-four 
 were received into the Church. The service was 
 not concluded tiU six o'clock, and it was then so 
 foggy and damp that we thought it expedient to put 
 off the consecration of the other grave-yard till to- 
 morrow. The Clergy were occupied nearly an hour 
 in taking down the names of the persons received 
 into the Church, with a view to their registration. 
 Mr. Hoyles went afterwards to baptize a child 
 privately. 
 
 Monday, August 7.— At eight o'clock we went 
 on shore to breakfast with the Agent. He spoke 
 much of his wish to provide a school for the benefit 
 of the people; and alluded in terms of great admi- 
 ration to the reports he had heard of the excellent 
 schools conducted by the Moravians at Nain and 
 Hopedale, and other stations far to the north. He 
 remarked, with much earnestness and simplicity, 
 that if persons could live and teach there, he could 
 not understand why they might not at Battle Har- 
 hour, which is not so cold and comfortless, and 
 much more accessible. He has lived here thirteen 
 ^.«*^, x,«Txng uccu uuiy once m England during 
 that time. He is unmarried, and has no relations or 
 
t to the 
 ckj the 
 After 
 dren of 
 baptized 
 3ed the 
 nee and 
 rty-four 
 ice was 
 then 60 
 b to put 
 till to- 
 m hour 
 Bceived 
 tration. 
 I child 
 
 5 went 
 I spoke 
 benefit 
 admi- 
 3ellent 
 n and 
 . He 
 licity, 
 could 
 Har- 
 t and 
 irteen 
 uring 
 >nsor 
 
 INDIAN TRIBES. 
 
 49 
 
 connexions m this country. He is well in health 
 at all seasons, but, if there be any difference, 
 s ronger and more active in winter than at ««; 
 other time. ^ 
 
 He^^v^^'f "^ '" ''■""^ travelling-dress and gear. 
 He drives from s.x to twelve dogs, with a leader, 
 
 ther. The dogs never require to be fed more than 
 once a-day .n their longest journeys. They travel 
 over the snow at the rate of ten miles an hour. 
 Each dog has a yoke. The handle of the whip is a 
 short stout stick and the lash or thong of sixteen 
 feet or more It ,s not of course carried in the 
 nand, but used occasionally. 
 
 Mr. Bendle also informed us of the character, &c., 
 of the Indians who dwell ia or resort to his neigh- 
 bourhood There are three distinct tribes4he 
 Micmacs, Mountaineers, and Esquimaux. The first 
 two are generaUy Roman Catholics, but the Esqui- 
 maux owe their instruction and conversion to the 
 Moravian Missionaries. These Missionaries (on the 
 Labrador coa.t) have four stations and establish- 
 me s, tU nearest about 400 miles to the north of 
 Battle Harbour, and the most distant nearly 400 
 xniles farther, or 800 from this place. There are 
 three families of the Moravians at each of their 
 stations, who live together in a stone house, and 
 have large trading concerns in fish, &c. with the 
 jCiSquimaux. 
 
 n«tv t'^'^t'"' '■"" "'^"' ^««* 1°"S' ^"^ «hown 
 us, which Mr. Bendle said was worth 30... and the 
 
 D 
 
50 
 
 i .'. 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 carcase nearly as much more. It is the kind called 
 . the Square Fipper, the same as the Greenland seal. 
 They kill m this establishment twelve or fifteen of 
 this sort every season. The Hood is still larger, the 
 skm twelve feet in length. In walking over the 
 snow to any distance it is necessary to use snow- 
 shoes, or rackets, which are very like tennis rackets 
 with a lighter and shorter handle, and larger 
 Aeaci. 
 
 At ten o'clock we had Morning Prayer in the 
 store, when twelve more children were received into 
 the Church. I again addressed the people on the 
 ^ Baptismal service. It rained very heavily all the 
 morning, with a strong wind, so that it was impos- 
 sible to go across the harbour to consecrate the 
 second grave-yard. The petition was, • however, 
 presented and read after the service, and I signified 
 my intention of consecrating in the evening, should 
 the weather clear up. It is the coldest and most 
 uncomfortable day since we left St. John's. There 
 IS an iceberg stranded at each end of the harbour, 
 or tickle. At five o'clock we went in a boat and 
 I consecrated the grave-yard at Matthew's Cove. I 
 put on my robes in the house of a respectable 
 planter, whose wife, sixty years of age, was born in 
 Battle Harbour, and has never left it. The little 
 grave-yard was then duly consecrated in the pre- 
 sence of a large number of the inhabitants. It is 
 already ornamented with a conspicuous £?rave- 
 stone, brought from Poole, of true English villaj^e 
 fashion. 
 
\d called 
 md seal, 
 iflkeen of 
 •ger, the 
 ver the 
 3 snow- 
 rackets, 
 larger 
 
 in the 
 ed into 
 on the 
 all the 
 impos- 
 ite the 
 'wever, 
 gnified 
 should 
 1 most 
 There 
 irbour, 
 at and 
 ve. I 
 ictable 
 orn in 
 ! little 
 3 pre- 
 
 Itis 
 [raye- 
 illage 
 
 ST. FRANCIS' IIAUBOUR. 5 J 
 
 Tuesday, August 8.-The little wind which blew 
 th,8 morning was still ahead. We, therefore, break- 
 fijstea early, and at half-past eight o'clock celebrated 
 Dmne service in the store, and received eleven 
 children into the Church, and so took leave with 
 prayers and blensings. But what has been done, or 
 rather, what has not been done, by God's mercy in 
 Jesus Christ, in this short visit, for this deserted 
 place . Soon, it may be feared, will the good seed 
 be devoured up, or the corn be withered or choked, 
 unless there can be found some faithful hand to 
 fray the birds, or pluck up the weeds and thorns. 
 We were under way by half-past eleven o'clock, 
 and at three o'clock were again safely anchored in 
 bt. Francis Harbour, our next place of call. All 
 along the coast we passed numerous boats belonging 
 to vessels in the harbours, chiefly from Newfound- 
 iand. There are, however, but two small settle- 
 ments between Battle Harbour and St. Francis. 
 We were met by a boat on entering the harbour 
 and kindly welcomed by Mr. Saunders, the agent of 
 Messrs. Hunt & Co., to whom this establishment 
 belongs. After dinner, while Messrs. Hoyles and 
 Harvey went on shore to call on Mr. and Mrs. Saun. 
 ders, and to make our purpose more fully known, 
 I, with the Captain and Mr. Brown, rowed round 
 an iceberg, which has found its way into the very 
 centre of the harbour, and there grounded. The 
 _... „^. „j^„,, ,,^ „yj ^jj,^ ^^^^^ difficulty kept 
 his standing, on account of its glassy surface It 
 was a dangerous experiment. The colour in the 
 
S2 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 'i: 
 
 jii 
 
 cavities appears beautifully blue/the other surfaces, 
 of course, perfectly white. We knocked off several 
 large pieces, and took them away in our boat. The 
 water which runs from the ice is very clean and 
 sweet. I accepted an invitation to drink tea with 
 Mr. and Mrs. Saunders, and received from them 
 much useful information. Mr. Saunders has been 
 hvmg here one-and-twenty years— was married in 
 England last winter, and brought out his lady in 
 June. I believe she is the first lady who ever 
 visited this coast, and, as far as I know, is the only 
 female who has come from England to dwell on the 
 Labrador. Among many schemes suggested for 
 providing means of maintaining Clergy and School- 
 masters, it was thought, or rather desired, that the 
 Customs might be applied to that purpose. The 
 government of Newfoundland had attempted some 
 years ago to collect them for revenue, but the mer- 
 chants resisted the attempt, and with success, on the 
 ground that it was unreasonable and unjust to tax 
 them for a government which extended to them no 
 protection, and no benefit of any kind. Mr. Saun- 
 ders further proposed that there should be a lar-e 
 establishment at Battle Harbour, with a Clergyman 
 and Schoolmaster, and a school, to board as well as 
 educate all the children on the shore, from Henley 
 Island on the south to Seal Islands on the north 
 The two plans might perhaps work together; but 
 
 as the first is impracticable. T mfinn fh^ ««n«^*: r 
 
 revenue by a tax for ecclesiastical purposes, I fear 
 the second is but a fair vision. Except the men 
 
surfaces, 
 F several 
 It. The 
 ean and 
 tea with 
 m them 
 as been 
 irried in 
 
 lady in 
 10 ever 
 he only 
 I on the 
 ted for 
 School- 
 ;hat the 
 . The 
 d some 
 le mer- 
 
 on the 
 
 to tax 
 lem no 
 
 Saun- 
 
 a large 
 
 gyman 
 
 tvell as 
 
 lenley 
 
 north. 
 
 %• but 
 I.: _^ 
 
 I fear 
 3 men 
 
 GIGANTIC ICEBERG. 53 
 
 and women, there are no living creatures in this 
 settlement but dogs and goats. Mr. Saunders had 
 been accustomed to keep a few sheep and poultry ; 
 but during His absence last winter all were killed by 
 the dogs, who became wild, and it is feared can 
 never again be reduced to order and peaceableness. 
 There is a garden at the establishment, of greens 
 turnips, radishes, and voiia tout. Mrs. Saunders has 
 brought a piano, as great a novelty as herself on the 
 Labrador, and she kindly played for us some Church 
 music. She has in her possession the first volume 
 of that useful publication, « The Parish Choir." 
 
 Wednesday, August 9.~While I was walking on 
 deck this morning, a little before eight o'clock, the 
 iceberg which we had circumnavigated yesterday, 
 fell asunder. If it had so fallen when we were 
 under it, it would probably have swamped our boat. 
 The ice-islands on the coast this year are unusually 
 large and numerous. There are four near this bar- 
 hour, which Mr. Saunders informs me are but parts 
 and fragments of an immense one-the largest he 
 ever saw~which, when it first appeared, was be- 
 tween two and three miles in length. Of the frag- 
 ments I saw, one had a completely plain surface, 
 with pillars or columns of ice standing upon it, of 
 various shapes and sizes. It reminded me of Salis- 
 bury Plain and Stonehenge. We had full service 
 this morning in a store, prepared for the purpose bv 
 Mr. Saunders. The seats on this occasion were 
 salmon-boxes, i,e. oblong boxes, about fourteen 
 inches deep and wide, and six feet long, in which 
 
64 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 m !; 
 
 the preserved salmon is packed for exportation. 
 The usual invitation was given to communicants, 
 and, happily, this time responded to. Mr. and Mrs. 
 Saunders partook with us, and six or seven of the 
 strangers from Newfoundland, some of whom were 
 known to Mr. Harvey, and expressed themselves 
 very thankful for tlie opportunity. Evening service 
 at half-past three. Five children were received 
 mto the Church, two of Indian parents, (Moun- 
 taineers,) and three of an Indian mother and 
 English father. These parties were married by 
 Mr. Hoyles, having been united three years a^o by 
 a fisherman. I addressed them, and laboured\ard 
 to make all concerned understand the nature and 
 use of the different parts and ceremonies of our 
 office of Holy Baptism. In the evening Mr. Saun- 
 ders took us a long and late walk over the rugged 
 rocks, to show us the bearings of the coast and°the 
 mistakes in our chart. It was interesting to notice 
 the pleasure he took in explaining these particulars, 
 and the earnest desire he manifested to have a new 
 survey of the coast, and chiefly that St. Francis' 
 Harbour and its approaches might be correctly 
 laid down, and shown to the best advantage. He 
 kept us out long after sunset, till nearly nine 
 o'clock, and seemed never likely to weary of his 
 story. « Is every Clergyman's anxiety to exhibit his 
 Church," thought I, " and zeal for its improvement, 
 and displeasure with thosfi whn horr^ ^^a>^„j •. _ ' 
 suffered ,t to fall into decay, founded on higher 
 principles, or for a holier purpose ?" It was rather 
 
A NEW GRAVE- YARD. 
 
 55 
 
 ortation. 
 micants, 
 nd Mrs. 
 1 of the 
 m were 
 m selves 
 service 
 eceived 
 ;Moun- 
 er and 
 •ied by 
 ago by 
 d hard 
 re and 
 of our 
 
 Saun- 
 'ugged 
 id the 
 notice 
 Julars, 
 a new 
 'ancis* 
 rectljr 
 He 
 
 nine 
 )f his 
 )it his 
 ment, 
 it or 
 igher 
 ither 
 
 a humbling reflection. We again drank tea with 
 Mr. and Mrs. Saunders. 
 
 Thursday, August 10.— We held servicerin the 
 store at nine o'clock, hoping to proceed immediately 
 after it ; but the heavy swell made it impossible for 
 the Church ship to get out of harbour. I took 
 a walk with Mr. and Mrs. Saunders to see their 
 winter house, as their present residence is only 
 suited for the summer months. I admired the 
 resignation and cheerfulness with which she ap. 
 peared to contemplate the prospect of a winter of 
 six or seven months in a room ten feet by twelve 
 where are two large reels fastened to ihe beams, at 
 which her husband and his clerk are to mend their 
 nets. Her husband also wiU be absent for some 
 weeks at the sealing time, and she, tenderly brought 
 up and cared for, well educated, and with a mind of 
 much natural refinement, must thus pass the first 
 winter on the Labrador. Surely, there are ladies 
 who might take a lesson and encouragement from 
 such an example. 
 
 We visited also the grave-yard, which is prin- 
 cipally occupied by Roman Catholics. One funeral 
 in three years is about the average. Mr. Saunders 
 J-ipressed a desire to have a grave-yard consecrated 
 for the Church of England residents ; and on my 
 consenting, he set about immediately to enclose a 
 suitable piece of ground. Several Indians arrived 
 to-day, seeking baptism for themselves and their 
 children. I therefore consented to remain till to- 
 morrow for these services, to commence at eight 
 
66 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWPOUNDLAlfD. 
 
 o'clock A schooner arrived here to-dar from 
 England, bringing papers with a full account of" 
 
 Z"' 'r"'"f " '" ^»™ - *"« »o„th of jl 
 the murder of the Archbishop, &c. 1 could n^ 
 but contrast with wonder and thankfulness ou^ 
 
 tSt?; T ' """"*" ^r-P^oy'^'^nU, beyond 
 the limits of cnhzation, as it is supposed, with the 
 murders and madness in the heart and entre Z 
 some caU Paris) „f civilized Europe. And Ihat 
 are the snows and solitude of Labrador compa^d 
 with streets streaming with blood, and houses fuU 
 of deceit and violence, as a cage is full of birds ? 
 Fnda^, August ll.-There were three women 
 
 and L .f.T'"''"^ ■»»*«'•■ brought to be baptized 
 and admitted into the Church. Two of the women 
 could not speak English, but the meaning of the 
 aervice had been fully explained. It seemfd right 
 however, that their God-parents should answer for 
 
 w^se Jit andofducretmn to anmer for them- 
 sekes' as the Rubric requires ; and as Mr and M^s 
 Saunders were kind enough to be sponsors, I feU 
 sure that some effectual fervent pra/ers would be 
 offered up for their growth in grace, and that they 
 my lead the rest of their lives according to this 
 beginning. I must confess, however, that through 
 ^heir want of preparation and knowledge, the service 
 
 1::1T:1?T'^ ^ ?^"'"\ -• ^-^-e is an 
 
 pf" ""'. r' """"""« ^^ method about the 
 
 Esquimaux, which, however natural, considering 
 
»y from 
 mt of a 
 3f July, 
 uld not 
 ess our 
 beyond 
 i^ith the 
 itre (as 
 d what 
 tnpared 
 ses full 
 ds? 
 »^omen, 
 [Indian, 
 iptized 
 vomen 
 of the 
 right, 
 er for 
 other- 
 ihem" 
 I Mrs. 
 I felt 
 [Id be 
 
 they 
 
 this 
 ough 
 rvice 
 s an 
 \ the 
 jring 
 
 THE ESQUIMAUX. 57 
 
 their manner of life and the absence of all moral 
 and soml discipUne, is very painful and perplexing. 
 Ihe children are never corrected, and seldom seem 
 pleased or interested. They care not to have their 
 heads stroked. Brought into the presence of a 
 stranger, they generally begin to cry. They always 
 look fat, but It .s not, so to speak, wholesome fat. 
 The men are diminutive in stature, with hooked 
 noses, dark eyes, sallow complexion, lank hair, and 
 arge hps. After this service we proceeded from 
 the store to the grave-yard, which was consecrated 
 in due order, and the day being very fine, the ser- 
 vice was more than usually impressive. 
 
 I now became very anxious to get forward ; and 
 seeing no hope of getting out the Church ship with 
 this wind, I determined to proceed in a boat, if 
 I could procure one with a crew, to Venison Islands. 
 Mr. Saunders kindly furnished both, and I therefore 
 left, for the first time, the good Church ship, and. 
 attended only by Mr. Hoyles, took my departure! 
 The boat was a large one, employed to carry fish 
 from harbour to harbour, with a smaU cuddy fore 
 and aft. I slipped into the after cuddy, and made 
 myself contented, if not comfortable ; though the 
 nbs of the boat, on which I laid down, and which 
 were not boarded over, being harder than mine, 
 made their impression accordingly. The wind was 
 quite fa,r outside, and we had nearly reached our 
 
 ^twenty-iour miles from St. Francis' 
 Harbour,) when it came ahead, and our skipper 
 said It would be impossible to enter the tickle, and 
 
58 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 wanted to run for auother harbour. He was per- 
 8uaded, however, to beat up to the entrance of the 
 tackle, when, by God's mercy, the wind again 
 favoured us, and we slipped in without danger or 
 d-fficul y. The tickle is so very narrow and 
 straight that ,t would be impossible to beat in with 
 the wind ahead. We were the more thankful, as 
 the sun had gone down. There is a small esta- 
 bhshment here, belonging to the Messrs. Slade, and 
 I brought letters of introduction to the Agent from 
 both Mr. Bendle and Mr. Saunders. Mr. Howe, t^ 
 Agent, welcomed us very kindly to his humble 
 dwelling, and gave up his room and crib to me 
 iHe 18 a pei-son of simple habits and mild manners," 
 well smted to the country, i„ which he has lived 
 from ks youth. He is now forty-seven years of 
 age, and unmarried. He has a clerk and man 
 servant, but no female in the house. The bed is on 
 a wooden crib, but without any sheets ; but the 
 blankets appeared clean, and I turned in without 
 any misgivings, and with much thankfulness 
 
 Saturday, Angmt 12.-Both last night and this 
 morning Mr. Hoyles said family prayers, and Mr 
 Howe and his clerk and servant attended. After 
 obtaining information about the settlements in the 
 neighbourhood, Mr. Hoyles started in a boat, with 
 four hands, to visit tl.em, and convey intelligence 
 of our arrival at Venison Island, and of my inten- 
 tion to hold a service to-morrow, and he was out on 
 this service the whole day. The Venison Islands 
 le name implies, used to abound in deer, but 
 
 as 
 
tvas per- 
 le of the 
 d again 
 mger or 
 ow and 
 
 in with 
 kful, as 
 ill esta- 
 ide, and 
 nt from 
 we, the 
 humble 
 
 to me. 
 anners, 
 8 lived 
 sars of 
 d man 
 d is on 
 ut the 
 '•ithout 
 
 d this 
 d Mr. 
 After 
 n the 
 with 
 gence 
 nten- 
 ut on 
 ands, 
 ', but 
 
 TENISON ISLAND. 59 
 
 they are now become scarce. The partridges also, 
 (the p arm,gan,) and rabbits, diminish in quantity 
 The latter, I was told, are not exactly Uke those at 
 home, but "their legs are more longer, and they 
 we more bu.lt for the country, having f„r on their 
 legs and they turns in winter." The great delicacy 
 of the country, the curlew, (birds of passage,) are 
 expected about this time, and have been see^ bul 
 none have yet been killed. I visited the two 
 resident families ; one Green, who is the son of I 
 attorney at Eingwood. He married (or took to 
 w.fe) a woman of this place, named Bourne, whose 
 fether was an Englishman, but mother an Indian. 
 He expressed his wish to be duly married, and re- 
 gretted that his two children were both so ill, that 
 he had httle hope of bringing them to the store 
 o-morrow. The head of the other family is also 
 an Englishman, named Stevens, who married, as he 
 said, a " sort of half Indian." I found, to my sur- 
 pnse. that this man had been married, and two of 
 Ins children baptized, in the year 1831, by Arch- 
 deacon Wix, or, as poor old Stevens said, " by the 
 head-man of St. John's." He could not remember 
 the head-man's name ; but the Archdeacon had 
 kindly left behind a Prayer-book and Testament, 
 jn which he had written the names of the children 
 baptized, with his own name and title. No person 
 here can remember how the Archdeacon came or 
 ...., _^ ^ „^,^ ,y^„^ J. ^ ^^^^^ ^^ remembrance 
 ot him in anj other settlement on the coast. It 
 would, I think, be a gratification to that inde- 
 
60 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 fatigable pioneer of the Churcli, to know that 
 I read a chapter to the poor man and his family 
 from the Testament presented seventeen years ago. 
 The book is carefully preserved, and is not likely to 
 be worn out by use, as none of the family can read. 
 He has many children. There is a Mountaineer 
 woman living with them as servai ^. Two English- 
 men are also with them this summer fishing, as 
 sharemen ; in the winter they go a-furring. I 
 spoke to them all on the duty and privilege of 
 praying to God ; but I fear, to little purpose, in 
 consequence of their deplorable ignorance. The 
 old man says, his children learn the Lord's Prayer 
 in the winter, but forget it in the summer. I spoke 
 also of baptism, and desired the children might be 
 brought to-morrow. Mr. Hoyles visited five or 
 six diiferent islands and harbours in which were 
 scattered settlers. 
 
 Sunday y August 13. — A tine morning, but with 
 a strong wind from the southward, which prevented 
 many persons coming to our service from the 
 islands which Mr. Hoyles visited yesterday. It 
 was held as usual in a store. In my discourse 
 I endeavoured to make them understand how they 
 were bound to strengthen the things that remained 
 on their minds and consciences, speaking of their 
 Creed or Belief, their duty to God and their neigh- 
 bour, and particularly to God, and insisting upon 
 the necessity of prayer, &c. In the afternoon a 
 number of children, (half Indians,) some of Moun- 
 taineer, and some of Esquimaux mothers, were 
 
VENISON ISLAND. 
 
 61 
 
 
 received into the Church. I addressed the people, 
 8.3 in other places, on Holy Baptism. I find it 
 better on these occasions to speak without book. In 
 the evening I took a walk with my Chaplain on the 
 cold barren cliffs, which resist the assaults of the 
 great Atlantic. We soon parted, however, I think 
 by mutual consent, for more pleasant and profitable 
 meditation, and, may not I say? for better company. 
 The rocks are the finest I have seen since I left St. 
 John's ; and I greatly admired and enjoyed the dash 
 and din of the proud waves tumbling and foaming 
 against the mighty unmoved barrier. The spray was 
 thrown up to a great height, and I distinctly ob- 
 served the prismatic colours as fully developed as 
 in a rainbow. I thought also with some interest, 
 that the opposite coast, as I looked across the sea to 
 the north-east, was Greenland : " Greenland's icy 
 mountains" could not be much more than 500 miles 
 off, within three days' sail with a fair wine'. Some 
 evidence of their proximity was afforded by the 
 large icebergs, many of which, I suppose, must 
 have loosed off from that frozen coast. We drank 
 tea (as we had taken our other meals) with Mr. 
 Howe, and had much conversation with him. I 
 was greatly pleased with his simplicity and appa- 
 rent sincerity. His library consists of (besides his 
 Bible and Prayer-Book) Bishop Wilson's Instruction 
 for the Indians, Grossman's Catechism, and Fox's 
 Book of Martyrs. The last seemed to be his chief 
 study ; and he asked me with some earnestness 
 whether it was all true. He informed me that he 
 
62 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 !l I 
 
 had been used for many years to take three times 
 a-day the usual allowance of spirits, but that for 
 six years he has entirely discontinued them, and 
 taken notb-ng stronger than spruce-beer, (the 
 common drink of the country,) and that he finds 
 himself equally able to bear cold and fatigue, and 
 better in health. I have met with other persons 
 on this coast equally abstemious, who feel no incon- 
 venience in consequence, but the reverse. It is evi- 
 dent, therefore, there is no necessity, however great 
 may be the temptation, to use ardent spirits or any 
 strong drink, even in the coldest season and climate. 
 A pernicious drink is very commonly used, called 
 CaUibogos, a mixture of spruce-beer and rum ; 
 which surely, and not slowly, undermines the 
 health and strength, even though not used in excess. 
 The Indians generally are fond of spirits, and par- 
 ticularly the Mountaineers, who, when they come 
 down to the coast, are in consequence turbulent and 
 troublesome. The Esquimaux are more moderate 
 and peac^^able. I read to Mr. Howe and his house- 
 hold in the evening, before family prayer ; and so 
 ended our Sunday at Venison Island, which, if not 
 the most pleasant I have spent in my visitation, 
 I hope and trust was not without a blessing to us 
 and our simple congregation. The Church ship 
 has not appeared. 
 
 Monday, Atigust 14.— I was cheered this morn- 
 _.i^ av ,1,.^ -. ^..Lvrv.^. uy uic iuteiiigence tiiat the 
 Church ship was safe in the harbour. She escaped 
 with difficulty from St. Francis' Harbour yesterday 
 
THE SEAL ISLANDS. 
 
 63 
 
 evening, after Mr. Harvey had held morning and 
 evening service in the store. After distributing 
 some books and medicine, we went on board, 
 hoping to proceed at noon ; but it came on to rain 
 very heavily, and the wind suddenly shifted to the 
 north-east, with a heavy squall, and our departure 
 was effectually stopped. 
 
 Tuesday y August 15.— The wind came round 
 again to the westward this morning, but was very 
 light. We got under way at ten o*clock, and did 
 not reach the Seal Islands till five. Mr. Howe 
 kindly furnished a pilot. Here, as in every other 
 harbour, are several vessels from Newfoundland. 
 Messrs. Hunt also keep a small " crew" here ; that 
 is, a few men dwelling together to prosecute the 
 fishery in the summer and kill seals in the win- 
 ter. Five Englishmen remained together here last 
 winter, who killed 500 seals. In the first three 
 months of the year they are in the woods, to cut 
 timber and fire-wood. Besides this crew, the only 
 residents are Indians (Esquimaux) and half Indians, 
 who live together, crowded into two huts, with an 
 Englishman who has taken one of the half Indian 
 women as his wife. Guided by the skipper of 
 Mr. Hunt's crew, we visited these Indians. Nearly 
 all (twenty out of twenty-three) crowded together 
 in one small hut, with our two guides, Messrs. 
 Harvey and Hoyles, and myself A strange group, 
 or crowd, we were. Indians will compress into the 
 smallest possible compass ; but still we were brought 
 into painfully close proximity. Most of them could 
 
64 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 Speak English, and some of them spoke and an- 
 swered as correctly and intelligently as any poor 
 persons I have ever conversed with. It would 
 have been difficult, if not impossible, to detect, 
 either in their appearance or speech, any trace 
 of Esquimaux. The men confessed that they had 
 only taken the women to live with them as wives, 
 without any form of marriage ; but they well knew, 
 they said, the propriety and necessity of the reli- 
 gious service and sanction, and were anxious to 
 avail themselves of this opportunity. They knew 
 no prayers, and had no creed ; but had been bap- 
 tized, they said, and procured their children to 
 be baptized, " in the name of the Father, and of the 
 Son, and of the Holy Ghost." This service had, 
 of course, been performed by some lay hand, as no 
 Clergyman had ever been among them or in the 
 neighbourhood. The Englishman who had taken 
 one of these women as his wife, professed to be able 
 to read, but he had taught them nothing, or nothing 
 good, either by precept or practice. It was very 
 affecting to see such a number of fine intelligent 
 human beings, young and old, absolutely without any 
 form of godliness or instruction in religion. Some 
 belief they profess of God and a future state, but of 
 the most vague and imperfect kind. They seem to 
 have cast aside or forgotten their old superstitions, 
 and to have received nothing in their place. It is 
 outpiicixig vuai> wicjf iiru su uivii anu numane. iiiey 
 expressed a desire to be properly baptized and 
 married ; and I appointed them to attend at the 
 
PERSONS VISITED. 
 
 65 
 
 ** room" to-morrow, at nine o'clock, for that pur* 
 pose. The full moon had risen before we left, but 
 neither party seemed anxious to shorten the con- 
 ference. 
 
 Wednesday, August 16. — Messrs. Harvey and 
 Hoyles met the Indians at the " room" at niiu, 
 o'clock, according to appointment. They first of aU 
 baptized an Indian woman, a widow, and then 
 married her to the man, a half Indian, with whom 
 she now lives as wife. Another couple under 
 similar circumstances were married. 
 
 I had intended to proceed after these services, 
 but the wind was contrary. I called on one of the 
 small traders from Newfoundland, who brought 
 goods in his vessel, which he intends to load with 
 fish, and is now selling them at about 300 per cent, 
 profit. 
 
 In the evening we rowed four miles to visit an 
 Englishman, with whom lives a step-daughter, a 
 young woman, and the mother of two children, by, 
 as there is too much reason to fear, her step-father. 
 The man, I presume, suspected that the evil report 
 liad reached us, for he was earnest in denying the 
 fact, before he was charged with the crime, or any 
 allusion to it had been made. The poor girl seemed 
 of a violent temper, and could hardly be brought in 
 to speak with us. I gave him warnings suited to 
 his case, which he received with careless acqui- 
 escence, but civilly ; and I exhorted him to send 
 the girl home to her mother's friends at Brigus, 
 and directed her, when she arrived, to call on the 
 
 E 
 
66 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 Ivise and assist 
 
 Clergyman, promising that he woulc 
 her. In returning I took an oar, as I have done on 
 former occasions, hoping that it is as lawful an 
 exercise for a sailor-Bishop on the Labrador, as a 
 ride in the parks for my brethren in England. 
 
 Thursday, August 17.— The wind ahead till noon, 
 when it came round. Soon after one o'clock we 
 loosed off; but being close to the shore, before the 
 wind could move us we drifted against it. Happily 
 there was but little wind, and by carrying out a kedf^e 
 anchor, and pushing with oars, the Church ship was 
 soon released from her disagreeable predicament, 
 and at two o'clock was fairly off, with a fine breeze 
 from S. E. 
 
 Friday, August 18.— The wind was again ahead 
 this morning, and it was a dead beat all day. We 
 however reached Dumpling Island, in Sandwich 
 Bay, the place of our destination, before seven 
 o'clock, which was a great comfort. We had an 
 Indian pilot on board. Here Messrs. Hunt & Co. 
 have an establishment for the salmon fishery, which 
 is very extensive and profitable. Messrs. Harvey 
 and Hoyles went on shore to see the Agent, (Mr. 
 Goodridge,) whom they found, and found civil and 
 obliging. We passed this day several establishments, 
 and saw in several harbours numerous vessels. The 
 boats belonging to them were fishing near the 
 shore. 
 
 Saturday, August 19.==Mr. Goodridge came on 
 board, and gave me the information I required 
 respecting this bay and the shore to the northward. 
 
EXTENT OF THE DIOCESE. 
 
 e: 
 
 About thirty miles farther to the north, as he 
 informs me, is another bay, larger than this, and 
 containing many more inhabitants. It is called 
 Esquimaux Bay. Sixty miles within that bay the 
 Hudson's Bay Company have a furring establish- 
 ment. There are many Esquimaux constantly re- 
 siding there. Mr. G. was anxious that, after stay, 
 ing a few days with him, we should proceed to 
 Esquimaux Bay. I would gladly have attended to 
 his suggestion if the season had not been so far 
 advanced, or I had not so much work to do on the 
 coast of Newfoundland. Thirty miles north of 
 Esquimaux Bay is Cape Harrison, or, by its Indian 
 name. Cape Webuck, which appears to be the limit 
 of the fishery carried on by the vessels from New- 
 foundland, and so must for the present be considered 
 the limits of my Diocese. Ilr. Goodridge, how- 
 ever, assures me that the government of Newfound- 
 land and its dependencies extends along the whole 
 coast of the Labrador to Baffin's Bay, or to the 
 North Pole. From thence to the Bermudas is a 
 pretty considerable Diocese. 
 
 In this Sandwich Bay, the settled inhabitants 
 (chiefly Esquimaux) are supported by the salmon fish- 
 ery, by furring, and by killing seals. The cod fishery, 
 though the "fish" is abundant, is not now followed. 
 The salmon fishery is over by the middle of June, 
 and aftor it the people have little to do till the end 
 of summer. Some catch " fish " {i. e. cod-fish) for their 
 own use. The Esquimaux are here more intelligent 
 and more hardy than those we found at St. Francis' 
 
 ^i' 
 
11 
 
 68 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 Harbour. They are well clothed and cleanly. These 
 circumstances are due to a longer acquaintance, and 
 more familiar intercourse, with Europeans in this 
 Bay. Several women from Newfoundland have 
 settled here, and men both from Newfoundland and 
 England. Considerable pains also have been taken 
 by the Agent to instruct and civilize the natives. 
 Among other means, he has read the Church ser- 
 vice every Sunday. A few years ago the Esqui- 
 maux women, generally, wore a cloak, or cope, of 
 seal-skin, with the hair outwards, the tail hanging 
 down behind, and the fippers on their arms ; but 
 now all rejoice in European dresses, shawls and 
 gowns of many colours. The only remains of 
 Indian dress is the seal-skin boot, which even the 
 smallest children wear ; it is of great use in the 
 snow, being quite impervious to wet. In the race 
 of mixed blood, or Anglo-Esquimaux, the Indian 
 characteristics very much disappear, and the chil- 
 dren are both lively and comely. The houses in 
 the neighbourhood of Dumpling Island are the sum^ 
 mer residences only, very mean and fragile. All 
 remove into the woods in the winter. Mr. Goodridge 
 took Mr. Harvey and Mr. Hoyles to the cottages in 
 the neighbourhood. The inhabitants were dressed 
 in their best to receive them, and expressed much 
 joy at our arrival. There are no living creatures 
 kept of any kind except dogs ; partly, I suppose, 
 because of the frequent removals of the people, and 
 partly on account of these dogs, which are so nume- 
 rous and fierce, that they will allow nothing else to 
 
CHURCH SERVICES PERFORMED. 
 
 69 
 
 live. They are of the wolf breed, of large size, and 
 not at all like the Newfoundland dog, but used and 
 useful for the same purposes. There are no gar- 
 dens, except for radishes, turnips, and a few greens. 
 There is abundance of good grass, and more verdure 
 of all kinds than in any place we have seen since we 
 left Forteau, and trees in the immediate vicinity of 
 the water. The soil, however, on the hills is chiefly 
 spongy moss. Berries of all kinds are found—the 
 Bake-apple is particularly abundant and fine. 
 
 Sunday f August 20. — A store was provided and 
 furnished for Divine service ; the planks in this 
 case being supported on coils of rope. There were 
 upwards of a hundred persons in the room : all, I 
 suppose, at present in the harbour, with part of the 
 crew of a vessel, which put in yesterday on her way 
 to Newfoundland, loaded with fish. One person 
 only asked permission to receive the Holy Sacra- 
 ment, and he the Master of the vessel from Newfound- 
 land. He seemed very thankful for the opportunity. 
 How often might a Clergyman, resident in these 
 parts, minister to the wants of Churchmen senarated 
 ibr months together from their spiritual food, and 
 from all the means of grace ! The Afternoon ser- 
 vice commenced soon after three o'clock, and was 
 not concluded till seven o'clock, in consequence of 
 the numbers to be christened and added to the 
 Church. I admitted six adults myself, who were 
 able to answer for themselves ; three were Esqui- 
 maux. All made the proper answers correctly and 
 seriously, and not the least so the poor Indians. 
 
 I'i 
 
'0 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 The day was beautifully fine, and Almighty God 
 seemed to look down graciously on the first admi- 
 nistration of his life-giving ordinances in Sandwich 
 Bay. May He be pleased, for his dear Son's sake, 
 to support and nourish the life so given, that they 
 may be fruitful in good works according to their 
 means and opportunities ! I surely may rejoice with 
 trembling, that I have been permitted to come 
 here as the Minister of his holy Word and Sacra- 
 ments, where I might almost say, "his Name had 
 not been heard." 
 
 Monday, August 21.— I received much informa- 
 tion about the Moravians on this coast from a person 
 Vv'ho trades with them, or at their settlements. Their 
 stations are four ; the principal one at Nain, about 
 300 miles north of this bay. About this station the 
 Esquimaux encamp, to trade with the Missionaries in 
 furs, and to receive instruction. There are four 
 Moravians connected with each establishment—a 
 Manager, Storekeeper, &c. each of whom is a 
 preacher. One of them also is a doctor. They 
 I have public worship every day, but the Missionaries 
 officiate in their common clothes. It is said they 
 keep the poor Esquimaux in strict subjection, and 
 will not allow them to trade with any other persons ; 
 and my informant, who was evidently jealous, said 
 they (the Missionaries) must coin money, for they 
 only give 206". or 30^. for a silver fox, for which he 
 would give 11. it seems, the Missionaries never 
 leave their establishments, and the Esquimaux only 
 get instruction while they remain in the neighbour- 
 
ESQUIMAUX PRAYERS AND HYMNS. 
 
 71 
 
 
 hood. Altogether, though I received the information 
 " cum grano," I can see plainly that a Missionary 
 trading establishment is open to serious objections, 
 more and greater than a working establishment; 
 where, I mean, the Missionaries might fish, or other- 
 wise labour, working with their own hands, that 
 they might have to give to him that needeth. The 
 latter plan is, I believe, pursued by the Roman 
 Catholics at the Red River. 
 
 Messrs. Harvey and Hoyles went on shore early, 
 to marry such parties as might require and desire 
 that service at their hands. Morning Prayers in 
 the store at ten o'clock, when several more were 
 baptized and received into the Church. After our 
 service was concluded, some Esquimaux, at my 
 request, read from a printed book portions of the 
 service which they use at the Moravian stations. It 
 appeared to be a Litany, commencing with the 
 Lord's Prayer, of course in the Esquimaux Ian-; 
 guage. A woman, I presume the best scholar, led, 
 and was in most parts followed by others, who 
 seemed to know their parts, or responses, very per- 
 fectly. Some portions she read alone. There were 
 frequent Antiphons, or short hymns, which all sang 
 in unison, in a clear and pleasing tone. The voice 
 and ear seemed good. Their language has been 
 reduced to writing by the European Missionaries 5 
 and their Service-books and the Holy Gospels are 
 now printed in the English character. I did not 
 hear of any Grammar or Dictionary. Tbis is the 
 title of their Book of Prayers, which I borrowed : — 
 
72 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND* 
 
 " Tuksiarutsit 
 Kujalitikset Nertordlemtiksello, 
 attorekset 
 Illagektunnut 
 Labradoremetunnut 
 Eudismme 
 ernst gottflob monsit nenilauktangit. 
 1830." 
 
 Their language abounds in long words, but seems 
 easily acquired for the purposes of conversation. 
 
 In the afternoon I walked on one of the islands, 
 and talked with some children, whom I questioned 
 as to their knowledge of the Lord's Prayer, and was 
 pleased to find they could repeat it accurately. I 
 rambled about over the lofty hills, and luxuriated in 
 bake-apples, &c. The clear sky over head, and the 
 soft elastic moss under foot, made the ramble very 
 pleasant to the outward man. Numerous curlew 
 were brought in as presents to-day. I wrote a 
 report of my proceedings this day to his Grace the 
 ArchbishoD of Canterbury, to the Rev. Robert 
 Eden, and many other kind friends. 
 
 Tuesday, August 22.— Messrs. Harvey and Hoyles 
 again went on shore at eight o'clock, to marry the 
 couples who were not prepared yesterday. Nine 
 couples were married, and one couple rejected, 
 because the man, as it appeared, had lived with 
 another woman, whom he had deserted, or turned 
 off. The man came on board the Church .ship to 
 ^ ^- _.i- — 11,,, rt,.,^ r^ivu^iif, ijio luaitiu vvue or woman 
 with him. He said his first marriage was only a 
 ilrunken fiolic; but he had lived upwards of two 
 
 
ESQUIMAUX MODE OF BURIAL. 
 
 73 
 
 
 years with the woman as his wife, and had a child. 
 He is an Englishman from Devon&hire—no credit, 
 I fear, to his country or Church. At the conclusion 
 of Morning service I told them plainly the wicked- 
 ness of separating after living together as man and 
 wife, and threatened the censures of the Churcli. 
 
 We then proceeded in three boats across the bay, 
 four miles and a half, to consecrate a grave-yard. 
 I went in my own boat, with a crew of Anglo- 
 Esquimaux and Esquimaux. The other two (whde- 
 boats) conveyed numbers of women and others to 
 witness and assist at the service. I robed behind 
 a spruce-tree, and desired no better vestry on such 
 a lovely day. The poor Esquimaux seemed much 
 interested, and circumambulated the ground in good 
 order, and knelt with becoming reverence in the 
 prayers, and at the blessing. I could not help 
 wishing that some of my friends on the other side 
 the wide Atlantic could have known how we were 
 employed, and have pictured the scene to their ima- 
 gination. 
 
 We returned, in boats, as we came. Mr. Good- 
 ridge dined with us on board. From him we learned 
 that the Esquimaux, in their primitive state, did 
 not bury their dead under ground, but placed the 
 corpse in the cleft of a rock, with all things sup- 
 posed necessary for a journey, and then covered 
 it with stones. Three years ago, a medical practi- 
 tioner came from England, and stole away two 
 bodies of Esquimaux so buried. The act excited 
 great indignation, and if the people could have 
 
ill 
 
 ii 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 
 im 
 
 
 (4 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 caught him, he would hardly have escaped with his 
 life. Many presents of curlew and berries came off 
 this evening. 
 
 In this bay and the next are full 400 residents, 
 •who have never before seen a Clergyman of our 
 Church, though now nearly all call themselves 
 Christians, and wish to be considered members of 
 the English Church. How sad that this should be 
 the first visit of a Clergyman to or among them ; 
 how muck sadder if it should be the last I Mr. 
 Goodridge assured me that the people are able, as 
 they are most desirous, to maintain a Clergyman ; 
 and that churches and a parsonage-house would 
 soon be built. And he implored me to send a Mis- 
 sionary. But if I cry for one, will any answer? 
 — will any say, " Here am I ; send me ?" 
 
 Wednesday, August 23.— We began a retrograde 
 movement to-day at seven o'clock, and by seven 
 o'clock in the evening were off Cape Bluff, having 
 run little short of 100 miles in twelve hours. We 
 were obliged to heave-to till morning light, in order 
 to land our pilot at St. Francis* Island ; and the 
 great number of floating fragments of ice make sail- 
 ing in the dark very dangerous. The large ice- 
 bergs are now broken up into small fragments, 
 which, in a heavy sea, are not easily discerned till 
 you are close upon them. 
 
 Thursday, St. Bartholomew.— -ThQ process of 
 lying-to in a rough sea is exceedingly disagree- 
 able. I could not sleep at all. We were off St. 
 Francis' Harbour before six o'clock, and landed 
 
CONTRARY TIDES. 
 
 75 
 
 vith his 
 ;ame off 
 
 sidents, 
 
 of our 
 
 mselves 
 
 ibers of 
 
 ould be 
 
 them ; 
 
 / Mr. 
 
 able, as 
 
 ^ymari ; 
 
 would 
 
 a Mis- 
 
 nswer ? 
 
 rograde 
 ' seven 
 having 
 J. We 
 1 order 
 nd the 
 ie sail- 
 ?e ice- 
 ^ments, 
 ned till 
 
 ess of 
 >agree- 
 off St. 
 landed 
 
 Paulo, an Indian pilot, who had rendered us good 
 service at Sandwich Bay. We endeavoured to re- 
 quite it, as in other ways, so by teaching him and his 
 son, who accompanied him, the Lord's Prayer. None 
 of his family seem to have learned any prayers.* 
 At twelve o'clock we were off Red Bay. A large 
 iceberg had just fallen asunder here, and its debris 
 Stretched full a quarter of a mile in continuance 
 from its base. We saw the coast of Newfoundland 
 about two o'clock. In the evening it became quite 
 calm. 
 
 ^ Friday, August 25.— We made no progress last 
 night. After eight o'clock this morning the tide 
 came to our help, and we made as far as Little 
 Modesto by twelve o'clock. Soon after, finding the 
 tide against us, and seeing some houses, we came to 
 anchor. 
 
 At Modesto Island we found a respectable English- 
 man from Weymouth, married to a woman from 
 Newfoundland. He was very glad of the oppor- 
 tunity of having two children baptized. We weighed 
 anchor again at five o'clock, and, helped by the tide 
 rather than the wind, reached Forteau Bay, our 
 first place of call, about nine o'clock. But the 
 treacherous tide, before we could reach the anchor- 
 age, swept us completely out of the bay, and nearly 
 set us upon the Isle aux Bois, to the westward of 
 Forteau Point. At midnight the tide turned, and 
 again carried us completely across the bay, at the 
 rate of four knots, and soon after one o'clock we 
 were close to the shallop, or shoal point, off L'Anse 
 
76 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 k Mort, and of course in considei'able danger. At 
 half-past two we were still farther to the eastward, 
 but not quite so near the shore. There was not a 
 breath of available wind. The night providentially 
 WAS clF,ar and fine, the stars bright, and the Aurora 
 Borealis ever and anon let down a splendid curtain 
 of light. Not a sound was heard but the puffing of 
 a sea-pig, who occasionally put up his back along- 
 side, and the fi^ijv 'ng of our lazy sails, with the creak- 
 ing of the rudder-chains and rigging, as the good 
 Church ship rolled and tumbled about upon the 
 rude relentless swell. I remained up, and occa- 
 sionally on deck, till past three o'clock, when, by 
 God's mercy, a breeze sprang up from the north- 
 ward, and the Hawk spread her wings joyfully to 
 it, and the captain went below, and the mate was 
 merry, and I— I hope I did in part what I ought to 
 have done, and what I ought to do all my life 
 through— acknowledged humbly and thankfully the 
 undeserved mercies vouchsafed to me and mine. At 
 four o'clock i retired to rest. 
 
 Saturday, August 26.— At five o'clock the cap- 
 tain came down to inform me that we were again 
 in Forteau Bay. I requested Mr. Hoyles to go 
 immediately in a boat to inquire for our good friend 
 Mr. Ellis, hoping to start at once, without coming 
 to anchor, for the opposite coast of Newfoundland. 
 However, it was reported that the tide would be 
 against us. that th^rA was fntr r»iifo,vi« ^^ ^r'^^ o-- 
 We therefore came to anchor. Being, however, 
 very anxious to reach the opposite shores to-night, 
 
cap- 
 
 ANCHOR POINT. 7^ 
 
 that we might hold service to-morrow at Anchor 
 Point, I persuaded Mr. Ellis to accompany us, and 
 we started with the rising tide at three o'clock, and 
 about six o'clock ran into the bay of St. Barbe, and 
 found a beautiful resting-place, nearly land-locked, 
 and fringed on every side with trees, which, though 
 but spruce and fir, looked quite parky after the bleak 
 barren rocks of Labrador. 
 
 Sundaij, August 21, —Kt ten o'clock we started 
 in a whale-boat for Anchor Point, where arrange- 
 ments had been made for holding Divine service. 
 After one tack in a very heavy swell, and shipping 
 two or three seas, we went to leeward, and were 
 obliged to land a mile from our destination. We 
 found Mrs. Genge, the mother of the settlement, 
 anxiously expecting us. Unfortunately, her husband 
 and son had gone to the Labrador a ^qw days before, 
 as they had determined the Bishop could not or would 
 not come so late in the season ; and, what was still 
 more unfortunate, several of the neighbours could not 
 join us, on account of the heavy weather and head- 
 wind. Two families on the opposite side of the 
 bay, full in sight, were thus cut off from the first 
 opportunity or possibility of attending the service, 
 and being brought into the communion of the 
 Church. 
 
 An unfinished store was fitted up for Mornino- 
 service, and three or four families, with servants'^ 
 &c. attended. In the afternoon, some children were 
 admitted into the Church. 
 
 Mrs. Genge was most earnest in trying to per- 
 
78 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 suade me and all my party to remain in her house 
 all night, as we could not cross the bay, on account 
 of the heavy sea, and it was a long and rough walk 
 round to the point near which the Church ship was 
 anchored. But only one of our party felt disposed 
 to remain ; to myself, and, I suppose, to others of 
 my party, the long walk was a relief and pleasure. 
 It was a pleasure also to see again cattle wandering 
 "at their own sweet will" in rich and luxuriant grass. 
 Wild fruits are abundant ; gooseberries, strawberries, 
 currants, bake-apples, and dewberries. The goose- 
 berries are small and rough, and the currj^nts not 
 sweet ; but the other berries, particularly the dew- 
 berries, are very pleasant to the taste. We saw 
 numerous black ducks and wild geese ; and we 
 heard that deer are easily found and killed in the 
 neighbourhood. Altogether, the good things both 
 of earth and sea appear to abound in this locality, 
 and to make it a fruitful and profitable settlement ; 
 and so we were informed by some Englishmen, who 
 have lately come here from Sherborne, in Dorset- 
 shire. The bay is skirted with drift timber from 
 wrecks, and with the bones of great whales. 
 
 Monday, August 28.— We started in the same 
 boat as yesterday for Anchor Point, for Morning 
 service, and to consecrate a grave-yard. It was 
 still blowing heavily, but with our captain as skipper, 
 we quickly reached our destination, though not with- 
 out shipping som.e seas. After the Secoxid Lesson, 
 several children were received into the Church, 
 though still many were prevented by the strong 
 
MRS. GENGE. 
 
 79 
 
 wind and wild sea. Immediately after the Morning 
 service, I consecrated the grave-yard. We then 
 took leave of the hospitable, warm-hearted Mrs. 
 Genge, who was earnest in her expressions of joy 
 and thankfulness. Of all the days in the thirty- 
 one years she had lived at Anchor Point, this was 
 the happiest She had never seen any minister of 
 religion in the place, except, on one occasion, a 
 French priest ; and her desire and prayer had been, 
 that she might live to welcome a Clergyman of the 
 Church to her house. She was very unwilling to 
 let us depart ; but I was anxious, if possible, to 
 walk round the bay, to visit the families on the other 
 sidp. It was too rough to use the boat. We made 
 the attempt, but found the distance too great, as 
 there was no road or path. We could not have 
 reached the Church ship before dark. It blew a 
 gale from the S. W., and we were thankful to be in 
 so snug and quiet a harbour. 
 
 Tuesday/, Ay gust 29.— It blew fearfully last night ; 
 and if we had been in any harbour on the opposite 
 side of the Straits, we should have been very un- 
 comfortable, if nothing worse. As it was, we lay 
 very snug and safe. 
 
 After breakfast I walked with Mr. Hoyles to call 
 at the houses opposite Anchor Point. The heads 
 of the families were at Blanc Sablon, on the op- 
 posite^side. One of Jhe men, as his wife reported, 
 came from " handy Bath, or Somersetshire." She 
 is herself a native of Labrador, and never saw 
 a church or, till now, a Clergyman. Though 
 
 laJButiia I 
 
80 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 
 she cannot read, she has contrived to teach her 
 children the Lord's Prayer and Creed ; and she was 
 very eager that they should be heard and instructed 
 by me, saying to them, " There now, you be ashamed 
 to go and be taught by that gentleman ; and I'd 
 go down on my knees to him to learn the Com- 
 mandments." We gave them what advice and 
 instruction we could in our short stay, but, of 
 course, could not forward much the great object of 
 her desire, a knowledge of the Ten Commandments. 
 It was some comfort in such circumstances to call to 
 mind that declaration of the great Apostle: " When 
 the Gentiles, which have not the law, do by nature 
 the things contained in the law, these having not 
 the law, are a law unto themselves, which shew the 
 work of the law written in their hearts," &c. Rom. 
 ii. 14, 15. Some of the houses here are built of 
 timber which has been collected from wrecks. The 
 vegetation is very luxuriant. We passed through 
 two natural meadows, or small prairies, which 
 would afford excellent pasture. Game is very 
 abundant. A good locality for emigrants. 
 
 Wednesday^ August 30. — The wind being some- 
 what abated, and more favourable, we got under 
 way at half-past nine o'clock. It however blew so 
 fresh, that a boat, sent with presents of bread, 
 butter, sugar, eggs, fowls, and milk, had great dif- 
 ficulty in reaching us. Soon after we got out of 
 the bay, the tide began novving to the eastward, 
 and, though the wind was tolerably fair, we were 
 carried back ; and after beating three hours against 
 
 
 ^tpK/ 
 
BOISTEROUS SEA. 
 
 81 
 
 ich her 
 she was 
 structed 
 shamed 
 and I'd 
 B Com- 
 ce and 
 but, of 
 bject of 
 iments. 
 
 • call to 
 
 * When 
 nature 
 
 ng not 
 iew the 
 Rom. 
 luilt of 
 I. The 
 hrough 
 which 
 s very 
 
 some- 
 under 
 >lew so 
 bread, 
 at dif- 
 out of 
 tward, 
 ; were 
 Lgainst 
 
 the tide, we were actually some miles to the east- 
 ward of our starting-point. In the afternoon the 
 wind was less favourable, and, beating against the 
 tide, made a tremendous sea. The Church ship 
 rolled and tossed to a distressing degree. 
 
 Thursday, August 3 1 .—The tossing was dreadful 
 during the whole night, and fully substantiated the 
 bad reports we had heard of the navigation of these 
 straits. It is notoriously rough and dangerous. 
 About three o'clock the wind became fair, and we 
 made rapid progress, but with no less rolling than 
 before. At night-fall we were off Bonne Bay. We 
 could just discern the Bay of Islands, (our next 
 appointed place of call,) but with no hope of getting 
 in. After reflecting on the matter- all day, and con- 
 sulting with my friends, and earnestly asking guidance 
 and help of Him ** in Whom are all our ways," I 
 reluctantly abandoned my cherished wish and in- 
 tention of visiting the Bay of Islands. I had looked 
 forward to my visit to this unhappy long-neglected 
 sfttlenaeiib as a matter of the greatest interest and 
 importance. 
 
 Twenty families are reported to be living there 
 in a state worse than heathenism. No Clergyman 
 has been among them for seventeen long years. It 
 was originally, I believe, intended that Mr. Meek 
 should be stationed there ; but the people of St. 
 George's Bay, whom he visited en route, were not 
 
 These circum- 
 
 stances will in some degree explain my anxiety to 
 visit these poor neglected people, to impart unto 
 
82 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 If., ! 
 
 them (should it please God to allow it) some spi- 
 ritual gift. But the season had now advanced so 
 far, and so many parties and places on the southern 
 coast were still expecting my presence, and requiring 
 some service at my hands, that I dared not run any 
 risk of delay. The wind was now fair for taking 
 us out of the gulf, and there was every probability 
 of our reaching La Poele, (where I had to conse- 
 crate a church and to confirm,) before next Sunday. 
 I- was told, moreover, that if we went into this Bay, 
 and the west winds came on, as seemed likely, we 
 might be detained a very long time. I am already 
 a week later than I gave the people to expect at the 
 ^different settlements along the southern coast ; and 
 the Clergy and their congregations will give me up 
 in despair. I determined therefore to proceed ; but 
 it was a sore trial and disappointment. I pray 
 God to allow and prosper the determination for His 
 dear Son's sake. Amen. 
 
 It will be prudent, while the state of the Labrador 
 and of the adjacent coasts of Newfoundland is fresh 
 in my mind, and near to my heart, to set down 
 what seems necessary to be done to secure and per- 
 petuate the blessings of which some taste has, 
 through my visit, been granted to the long-neg- 
 lected inhabitants. For this purpose three resident 
 Missionaries are required ; the first, having his head- 
 quarters and his church at Forteau, would visit all 
 the Labrador coast, from Blanc Sablon on the south 
 to Ked Bay on the north, with the opposite coast of 
 Newfoundland, a line of country little short of 100 
 
STATIONS OF MISSIONARIES. 
 
 83 
 
 )me spi- 
 anced so 
 southern 
 equiring 
 
 run any 
 r taking 
 3bability 
 conse- 
 Sunday, 
 his Bay, 
 kely, we 
 
 already 
 st at the 
 St ; and 
 e me up 
 ed ; but 
 
 I pray 
 
 for His 
 
 labrador 
 is fresh 
 it down 
 nd per- 
 ite has, 
 tig-neg- 
 resident 
 is head- 
 visit all 
 e south 
 3oast of 
 of 100 
 
 miles, and with nearly 400 settled inhabitants. In 
 the summer, more than 1,000 persons employed 
 in the fishery from England, Jersey, Canada, and 
 Newfoundland, are resident for three or four months. 
 It would be highly desirable that the Clergyman at 
 Forteau should be able to converse in the French 
 language, for the sake of the Canadians and Jersey- 
 men. A Clergyman on this station would be able 
 to visit his whole charge twice a-year, while, having 
 his residence chiefly at Forteau in summer, he might 
 be in constant communication with the large fishing 
 crews in that bay, in L'Anse k Loup, and Blanc 
 Sablon ; and could at any time, on an emergency, 
 cross over the straits to Anchor Point and other 
 settlements on the Newfoundland coast. One of his 
 chief objects would be to establish a school at or 
 near Anchor Point, and at Red Bay, and to build 
 small chapels near the consecrated grave-yards. 
 
 A second Missionary would have his church and 
 chief residence at Battle Harbour; and as this settle- 
 ment is the most populous and important on the 
 Labrador coast, and lies nearly in the middle be- 
 tween Forteau and Sandwich Bay, the Clergyman 
 placed there should have a general supervision of 
 coast as Rural Dean, while his own Mission would 
 extend from Red Bay to Seal Island, fully 100 miles. 
 The settled population is nearly 400 souls, while as 
 many thousands are fishing on that part of the coast 
 in the sfiasnn. A o/»l-,nr»l ia ^-^^^4.1^ j_j __-i 
 
 greatly desired, at Battle Harbour, which, it has 
 been suggested, might board as well as educate the 
 
S4 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 poor children from all parts of the Mission. It 
 would be very desirable that the schoolmaster should 
 be at least in Deacon's orders, not only on account of 
 the importance of his own peculiar charge, but that 
 the service of the Church might not be suspended 
 during the absence of the Missionary. 
 
 The third Missionary should have his church and 
 residence in Sandwich Bay, probably at Dumpling 
 Island, (which might thereby acquire a better or 
 holier name,) and his flock, or flocks, would be 
 principally in Esquimaux and Sandwich Bays, and 
 along the shore from Seal Island to Cape Harrison. 
 Schools might, in process of time, be established in 
 both the bays, with the same beneficial results which 
 have followed the labours of the Moravian Mis- 
 sionaries on this coast, (of which I witnessed many 
 striking instances,) and in Greenland. A knowledge 
 of medicine might greatly increase a Clergyman's 
 influence and usefulness, and in a way quite in 
 keeping with his sacred calling and with the highest 
 pattern of the ministerial office. The healing art 
 has been practised with success and much benefit 
 by the Moravian ministers. To support these 
 Clergymen, with the schools, a sum of not less than 
 800/. a-year would be requisite, with, of course, 
 dwellings, and fuel provided by the people. Of this 
 sum, the inhabitants are both willing and able to pay 
 a full share ; and, if assisted by the merchants and 
 the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, I 
 might hope to provide the residue, and secure this 
 interesting race of people to the Church, and the 
 
 
HEAD WINDS. 
 
 85 
 
 Jion. It 
 ir should 
 icount of 
 but that 
 ispended 
 
 irch and 
 umpling 
 etter or 
 ould be 
 ays, and 
 [arrison. 
 ished in 
 s which 
 m Mis- 
 d many 
 3wledge 
 Lyman's 
 uite in 
 highest 
 ing art 
 benefit 
 i these 
 iss than 
 course, 
 Of this 
 to pay 
 Its and 
 )spel, I 
 re this 
 nd the 
 
 Church, with all her blessed means of grace, to the 
 people. Hasten it, O Lord, I beseech thee, in thy 
 own good way and time, for Jesus Christ*s sake I 
 Amen. 
 
 Friday y Sept. 1.— The wind was fair in the 
 night, but light, and so continued during the day. 
 We made but little progress, and I had an oppor- 
 tunity of surveying the coast, and observed many 
 cottages here and there which I would gladly have 
 visited had it been possible. It is very distressing 
 to look on these people, half dead, nay, it may be 
 feared, dead in trespasses and sins, and to pass by, 
 as it were, on the other side. God knows it is not 
 from want of compassion that I do so, or of desire, 
 if it were permitted, to bind up their wounds, and 
 pour in the oil and wine of the good Samaritan and 
 true physician of souls. .. 
 
 Saturday, Sept 2.— -The wind w 3 again very 
 light all night, and hj morning ahead. At noon 
 we had only weatliered Cape Ray, and it seemed 
 very doubtful whether we should reach La Poele 
 before night ; to accomplish which I had abau- 
 doned my earnest wish and resolved purpose to vi^it 
 the Bay of Islands. It was a sore trial. 
 
 Sunday, Sept 3.— Alas ! during the whole night 
 the wind was ahead, and we did not {advance 
 five miles. I would gladly have gone into any bar- 
 boo- short of La Poele ; but the captain thought we 
 luight beat up by two oVlock. We had service on 
 board at eleven o'clock, but the pitching of the 
 vessel mvJe it very uncomfortable. By noon we 
 
86^ DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 were within sight of La Poele Bay; but this only 
 made my disappointment the greater, when there 
 was no longer any hope of getting in soon enough 
 lor either of the services I had hoped to be permitted 
 to celebrate this day. The wind increased, and, 
 contending with a strong tide, made a dreadful sea. 
 Several times the bowsprit went quite under water, 
 and then rose again as if it were pointing at the 
 skies. At sunset we were close to Garia, about six 
 or seven miles only from La Poele ; but it was then 
 necessary to stand off, as the weather was thick and 
 the wind blowing nearly on the shore. It was a 
 day of bitter trial and disappointment, whether I 
 thought of what I had left, or of what I had vainly 
 tried to reach. The good Church ship seemed to 
 labour to get forward all day, and made some gallant 
 reaches, but it could not be. God's will be done 
 
 Monday, Sept. 4.*— It was an awful night: 
 ram and lightning, with violent storms of wind and 
 a tremendous sea. We stood off till one o'clock, 
 and then tacking, came upon the land, by God's good 
 providence, ai day-break, just at the entrance of the 
 bay. We got in without difficulty, and at six 
 o'clock the Church ship was again safely moored at 
 Mr. Renouf's buoy. It is strange that on each 
 occasion we arrived on a Monday morning, after . 
 Sunday spent, most contrary to our hopes and ex- 
 pectations, at sea. If it were right, or of any use, I 
 
 * .^ ressel was wrecked tuia night a i&w miles to the east- 
 ward and another, as we heard, dismasted in the Straits 
 about the same time. 
 
 
LA POELE. 
 
 87 
 
 this only 
 len there 
 1 enough 
 )ermitted 
 sed, and, 
 dful sea. 
 Br water, 
 g at the 
 ibout six 
 was then 
 hick and 
 ^t was a 
 iether I 
 d vainly 
 emed to 
 i gallant 
 done. 
 
 night : 
 ind and 
 o'clock, 
 l*s good 
 3 of the 
 
 at six 
 ored at 
 1 each 
 after ^ 
 nd ex- 
 ' use, I 
 
 he east- 
 Straits 
 
 
 might lament and reproach myself for having hasted 
 from the Bay of Islands in vain and to no purpose. 
 It appears now that if I had entered, as I at first 
 intended and resolved, I should have spent a quiet 
 Sunday, receiving and giving comfort and instrue- 
 tion, have escaped the tossings and trials of last 
 night, have been enabled to visit several intermediate 
 places, and been at this time as far advanced in my 
 journey, or at least in my work ; for I shall probably 
 remain here several days before the people can be 
 collected for the consecration of the church, and the 
 Confirmation.* We had prayers in the church at 
 eleven o'clock; and I was much pleased to find it ready 
 for Consecration, and complete except the seats. A 
 very ample and convenient churchyard was also railed 
 round with a decent fence. At five o'clock we had 
 evening prayer, when I preached on the subject of 
 Confirmation. It rained in torrents the greater 
 part of the day ; but there was a pretty full attend- 
 ance at the Evening service. We arranged to have 
 the Consecration of the church and churchyard, and 
 the Confirmation to-morrow, if the weather should, 
 by God's mercy, be favourable. 
 
 Tuesday, Sept. 5.— -The day promising fair, the 
 church was consecrated in the usual form by the 
 name of St. Thomas the Apostle. I celebrated 
 Holy Communion, and about twenty persons com- 
 municated, which was as large a number as could be 
 
 * I learnt, to-day, that the Roman Catholic Bishop (Dr. 
 Mulloch), with a Priest, is visiting thoae parts of the coast 
 which I have passed by in my ill-advised haste. 
 
88 
 
 ■ «!( 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 expected on the first occasion. Evening Prayer at 
 three o clock, and at this service about forty persons 
 were confirmed. After the service I consecrated the 
 churchyard. The church was full morning and 
 evening, though none could attend from the distant 
 out-harbonrs, for want of notice. The appearance and 
 behaviour of the people were pleasing and satisfac- 
 tory. One has a prejudice in favour of English- 
 lookmg faces and dresses; and certainly, the change 
 from the Labrador costume and countenance was 
 very striking and agreeable. 
 
 1 was particularly struck by a whole family 
 father, mother, and seven children, presented for 
 Confirmation, five of whom received the Holy 
 Sacrament in the morning. Most of them were in 
 tears J the father wept audibly-his heart was full 
 He had seen the fulfilment of his long-cherished 
 hope. Upon inquiry, I found that he was the per- 
 son who, three years ago, had requested permission 
 to speak with me; and then, with many tears, 
 represented his earnest desire, with that of his whole 
 lamily, to have the benefit of a Clergyman's minis- 
 trations within their reach. They walk several 
 miles every Sunday to the service, by a very rough 
 road, or rather no road, through the woods ; and 
 are most reguUr in their attendance. The general 
 conduct of the whole family is exemplary. It is 
 difficult for persons never placed in similar circum- 
 stances rightly to conceive the chanae of their cnn- 
 ouiou and feelings, by the consecration of a church 
 and the settlement of a Clergyman among them' 
 
 
•BLESSINGS OF A CHURCH. 
 
 89 
 
 ^rayer at 
 '■ persons 
 •ated the 
 ing and 
 i distant 
 mce and 
 Batisfac- 
 Snglish- 
 change 
 ice was 
 
 family, 
 ted for 
 J Holj 
 i^ere in 
 as full. 
 Si'ished 
 le per- 
 Qission 
 
 tears, 
 
 whole 
 
 minis- 
 
 everal 
 
 rough 
 
 ; and 
 
 meral 
 
 It is 
 
 'cum- 
 
 con- 
 urch, 
 iiem. 
 
 services 
 
 Think of the h( 
 
 of grace by « the laying on of hands," and' by 
 the holy Communion ; and then of the opportu- 
 nities continually to be vouchsafed to them, if God 
 will, of going with their brethren and companions 
 to the house of the Lord, and of expecting the pre- 
 sence and blessing of that gracious Friend and 
 Saviour who has promised, « Where two or three 
 are gathered together in my name, there will I be 
 in the midst of them !» and all these mercies and 
 means of grace where, three years ago, an occasional 
 visit by a Methodist minister was (to the Church's 
 shame) the only remembrance of God and religion. 
 Could our friends, and the friends of the Church at 
 home, know the joy and reward of thus breaking up 
 the fallow ground, of sowing in righteousness, °and 
 reaping in mercy, (for how quickly is some return 
 granted to encourage the faithful labourer!) they 
 would be more stirred up to forward, if not to 
 engage in, our blessed work ; to send us help, if not 
 themselves to " come over and help us." 
 
 Wednesday, Sept 6.— I had intended to depart 
 to be ready for the services at Harbour Briton next 
 Sunday, hoping to visit Hermitage Bay on the way, 
 but lo ! a head wind. I took in some land for a 
 glebe, and I have always plenty of occupation in 
 writing when in Harbour. Service in the church 
 at eleven and five o'clock. 
 
 J. riiiisaai/, aepi. ( . — Another unpropitious day, 
 to exercise our patience. 
 
 Friday, Sept 8.— The wind stiU a-head this 
 
 
90 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 morning, and as there seemed no prospect of a 
 change. I allowed some of my party to go into the 
 woods to look for a deer, with the intention of stay- 
 ing out all night. No sooner were they gone, than 
 the wmd became fair. Another lesson of patience 
 Saturday, Sept. 9.~The wind continued fair 
 but the day was very wet. I received to-day my 
 first letters since leaving St. John's, upwards of two 
 months. I can understand now some of the misery 
 of being six and nine months, which is the case in 
 bt. George's Bay, without any news of friend or 
 foe. Mr. Brown did not return with his party from 
 the woods till late this evening, whicli made me very 
 uneasy. In consequence of the high wind, they had 
 not be^n able to launch their boat till the evening 
 
 Sunday, Sept. 10. -A beautiful morning I 
 should have enjoyed it, had I been sure that I was 
 m my right place, and had neither ha^^-d with my 
 feet to come here, nor lingered after I ought to have 
 departed, thus 
 
 " medio de fonte leporum 
 Surgit amari aliquid." 
 
 The Morning service was at the usual hour, and 
 I thought it right again to celebrate the Lord's 
 bupper ; knowing that another opportunity may not 
 occur for a very long season, as Mr. Appleby is only 
 m Deacon's orders, and no Priest within a hundred 
 miles. 
 
 In the afternoon, seven persons were confirmed, 
 who iiad not been able to attend on Tuesday. It 
 would have been a Sabbath indeed, but for the 
 
HERMITAGE BAT. 
 
 91 
 
 retrospect and prospect, but "sufficient unto the 
 day is the evil thereof;" and this day seemed to 
 bring no evil with it, but "joy and gladness, thanks- 
 giving and a voice of melody." Why should I not 
 be content and thankful ? 
 
 Monday, Sept.U.—Themovmng fine, but thewind 
 ahead. One of the daughters of the parties spoken 
 of, who seemed to value so much the services of our 
 holy Church, was married this morning to a respect- 
 able man, who had been confirmed at the same 
 time. Both had received the Holy Communion 
 yesterday. After the marriage, the whole party 
 attended at Morning Prayers in the church at half- 
 past ten o'clock. I had the satisfai rion of present- 
 ing the newly-married couple with a Bible. After 
 prayers, the wind began to veer, and all parties 
 predicted a favourable time. 
 
 The wind came round as predicted, and about 
 three o'clock in the afternoon we again committed 
 ourselves to His merciful care and keeping, who 
 guides and protects his people by sea as well as on 
 land ; humbly praying that he would vouchsafe to 
 guide and protect us, and bless us for our work's sake. 
 A salute was fired from the shore, and from a vessel 
 lying in the harbour, as we got away. Soon after we 
 were out, the wind died quite away, and we remained 
 a great deal too near the shore for my comfort. 
 
 Tuesday, Sept. 12.--The wind came again to the 
 westward at two o'clock this morning, and we were 
 80 happy as to reach our harbour, (Great Jervis,) 
 in Hermitage Bay, just at sun-down. We came to 
 
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 (716) 872-4503 
 

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92 
 
 li 
 
 WOCESE OP NEWFOCKDIAND. 
 
 anchor in a narrow bight, called Pnsh-through so 
 named because a boat can push through from 
 Great Jervis Harbour into Hermitage Bay. Her^^ 
 expected to meet Mr. Mountain, who purposed com- 
 mencmg here to accompany „e to aUthe settlements 
 to be visited in his Mission. He had, however 
 departed about three hours before our arrival! 
 Wg been summoned to marry a couple at the 
 head of Hermitage Bay, some twelve miles off. He 
 purposes, however, to return to-morrow. Here I 
 
 J^^day Sept. ]3._Started early in a fish- 
 ing skiff for Grole, on the opposite side of the 
 Bay, about eight or nine miles. We were three 
 hours in crossing, partly sailing, partly rowing. 
 Had Morning service in the school-room, which is 
 clean and in good order. In the afternoon I con- 
 firmed twelve females, and ten males, several of 
 them aged people. It was the first time a Confirma- 
 ^on had ever been celebrated here, or in this Bay. 
 r ,t r^'f 'f™ *" "PPreciate and profit by Mr. 
 Coley's aithful and pious endeavours'and pr^aye 
 for heir improvement. AU the congregation were 
 mcely di-e^ed, and well behaved, and their a^pe " 
 ance bespoke better circumstances, and, I trust" not 
 worse manners and morals, than when I visited 
 them before. The frame of a Teacher's house is 
 put up, but when and how it will f,« e-ui-A -.. 
 question which " * 
 
 difficult, I fej 
 
 the poor people will find 
 to resolve. 
 
 it 
 
 verjr 
 
HERMITAGE BAY. 
 
 93 
 
 We started at five o'clock to return, and the wind 
 being ahead, were obliged to row all the way. Two 
 oars out of four were broken, and we were soon 
 benighted ; but happily there was n fine raoon, and 
 we " pushed throu-h" about eight o'clock, and had 
 the satisfaction of finding Mr. Mountain waiting to 
 receive us. 
 
 Thursday, Sept. 14.— Divine service was cele- 
 brated in a poor half-finished school-room, which 
 has one small window. Half the roof is only covered 
 with birch-rinds, and one end of the room is patched 
 up with shingles, rinds, and lumber. The furni- 
 ture was partly boards nailed up for the occasion, 
 and fragments of benches and chairs. The end 
 under the window was made decent with my furni- 
 ture. The lectern was forwarded to me at this 
 place from St. John's. 
 
 The attention and reverent behaviour of the 
 people seemed to be in inverse ratio to the prepa- 
 rations, and in most pleasing contrast. Mr. Moun- 
 tain said the prayers ; Mr. Harvey assisted at the 
 holy table. I confirmed immediately after the 
 prayers. After the prayer for the Church Militant, 
 the non-communicants departed, and I administered 
 the Holy Sacrament to four persons, besides my 
 own friends. Afternoon service at three o'clock. 
 The country in this neighbourhood is quite as rugged 
 and barren as the Labrador. One cow is kept°in 
 t«e settlement, and a few potatoes are grown. All 
 besides is moss and mountain, gloomy and desolate 
 even in the bright sunshine ; but here are stout 
 
 
94 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 hands, and honest cheerful hearts ; men who for 
 labour and endurance might vie with heroes of any 
 time or clime ; and, what is far better and happier 
 lor them and the world, 
 
 " Ready to give thanks and live 
 On the least that Heaven may give." 
 
 In the evening Mr. Mountain brought the old 
 schoolmaster (named LiUy) and some of his family 
 on board, to receive some instruction in psalmody 
 
 Friday, Sept. IS.-The good Church ship was 
 warped out of Push-through this morning to pro- 
 ceed to Harbour Briton. 1 left her. intending to 
 reach; the same destination by way of Hermitage 
 Cove, walking across the narrow neck of land which 
 separates Hermitage Bay from Connaigre Bay We 
 crossed the bay in a whale-boat with six hands 
 puUing against a head-wind and heavy sea. Reached 
 the Cove about two o'clock, and had Afternoon 
 service in the school-room. Through the want of 
 notice, and absence of many of the men from the 
 settlement, the attendance was very small. After 
 service we took the usual Newfoundland refresh- 
 ment, tea and biscuits, i„ the house of a person 
 who, though eighty-five years of age, can row him- 
 self over the bay cross-handed,-rather laborious 
 work at any age. Thence we walked to Connaigre 
 Bay, and there launching a boat, with the assistance 
 ot two stout lads, rowed across the bay. The boat 
 
 had no rudder, anrl nno nf „..» r . , 
 
 ' " "' ""» »""» oars oroKe, and 
 
 we had great difficulty in stemming a very heavy 
 
THE CHURCH SHIP. 
 
 95 
 
 sea, shipping a great deal of water. After crossinc' 
 the bay, we had a walk of some miles before U8° 
 and part of the way no road. When we left the 
 road, it had become dusky, and we got into some 
 brushwood up to the shoulders, and there floundered 
 about, searching in vain for the path, and ever and 
 anon dropping into holes, which fortunately were 
 quite dry, or, as the inhabitants would say, "terrible 
 dry." We kept near together by shouting, and after 
 repeated tumbles in the brushwood, sometimes on 
 my back, sometimes on my face, I came upon a 
 path ; and about half-past eight o'clock we reached 
 Harbour Briton, safe and sound in body, though 
 somewhat damaged in clothes. Great was my dis- 
 appointmeia at not finding the Church ship;~and 
 now the wind is right a-head, and blowing heavily. 
 There was no prospect of her arriving to-night ; and 
 after devouring a large supply of correspondence 
 from England and St. John's, I retired to bed, but 
 not to sleep— I was so very anxious about my 
 schooner. 
 
 Saturday, Sept. IG.-After a short and sleepless 
 night, fuU of trouble and fear about the Church 
 ship, for it blew a gale from the south-east aU night 
 I rose at half-past five o'clock. There was sufficient 
 light to show me that the schooner had not arrived, 
 and there was no other harbour into which she 
 could have gone. She must, therefore, be in the 
 
 greatest difficulty, if not danwr nn^ t ^« .lu t t 
 
 was much supported by thinking on the concluding 
 portion of the 77th Psalm, which I had read yester- 
 
 11 
 
m 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 day. I began to dress myself, and on turning round 
 in a few minutes to view the harbour, how asto- 
 nished, delighted, and thankful I was, to behold the 
 good Church ship safely anchored just opposite my 
 window! It seemed magic, or a miracle, and a 
 complete verification or illustration of those words in 
 the Psalm alluded to : « Thy way is in the sea, and 
 thy paths in the great waters, and thy footsteps are 
 not known." Psalm Ixxvii. 19. The ship had been, 
 as I supposed, in considerable danger during the 
 mght, being obliged to carry on in consequence of 
 being so near the shore, and she had been much 
 strained, but, by God's merciful protection, had 
 escaped more serious damage. She anchored soon 
 after six o'clock. About nine o'clock the wind 
 shifted, and it blew a gale all day from the north- 
 west. Service twice in the church. In the evening 
 I addressed the candidates for Confirmation. 
 
 Sunday, Sept. 17.-~Divine service commenced 
 with the consecration of the church at half-past ten 
 o clock. The Holy Communion was administered, 
 but five persons only (besides the Clergy) commu- 
 nicated. The only new feature in the consecration 
 service was, the presentation and dedication of a 
 quarto Bible and Prayer-book, given by the Society 
 lor Promoting Christian Knowledge, and of vessels 
 for the Holy Communion. These were brought to 
 me by the Rev. J. Mountain immediately after the 
 presentation of the deed of conveyance, and by me 
 were humbly presented and placed on the holy table. 
 I introduced into the service the prayer (slightly 
 
ng round 
 low asto- 
 ehold the 
 >08ite my 
 e, and a 
 words in 
 sea, and 
 steps are 
 ad been, 
 ring the 
 uence of 
 n much 
 on, had 
 •ed soon 
 le wind 
 i north- 
 evening 
 
 menced 
 past ten 
 istered, 
 ;ommu- 
 deration 
 n of a 
 Society 
 vessels 
 ight to 
 ter the 
 by me 
 (Stable, 
 lightly 
 
 HARBOUR BRITON. 
 
 tfr 
 
 altered to refer to the books as well as the sacred 
 vessels), which Bishop Patrick used (a.d. 1704) in 
 consecrating communion plate. 
 
 In the afternoon the Confirmation ; only twelve 
 persons confirmed : the smaU number was owing 
 partly to the gale which still continued in sufficient 
 violence to prevent the presence of all who had been 
 expected from out-harbours. After the Eveninc. 
 bervice the churchyard was consecrated with the 
 usual solemnities. The evening happily was very 
 
 Monday, Sept, I8.-The morning of yesterday 
 having proved so unfavourable, I determined to 
 remain to give an opportunity to the persons in the 
 out-harbours to come for Confirmation. Messrs. 
 Aldington and CoUey went across the bay in a boat 
 soon after six o'clock, to inform the people on that 
 side. Several arrived before Morning service, but 
 1 thought it better to defer the Confirmation tiU the 
 afternoon. Twelve or thirteen were confirmed, 
 feeveral candidates were still kept away by the 
 heavy weather. 
 
 Tuesday, Sept 19.~.The anniversary of the great 
 hurricane in 1846, and of God's goodness to me in 
 saying my life, that, as I trust, I may live to serve 
 Him. It blew this morning a gale from the north- 
 west, and we could not leave. It moderated in the 
 evening. 
 
 Vrednesday, Sept 20.~After prayers in the 
 church at nine o'clock, we took leave of Harbour 
 Briton, carrying with us the Rural Dean to assist, 
 
 a 
 
98 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND, 
 
 as I hope, at rjlleoram. We did not arrive till 
 dark, and had some doubfc whether we should get 
 in 5 but a boat and crew came to direct and assist 
 us. The mortifying intelligence met us, that nearly 
 aU the men of the settlement had sailed this day for 
 Harbour Briton, the place we had just left, this 
 being the great settling day of the yearly accounts 
 at the merchants* establishment. A fter some deUbe- 
 ration, I determined at all events to remain over 
 Sunday, hoping that the people might return by 
 that time. Many of the candidates for Confirmation 
 are absent. 
 
 SuMatth^w'srdxiy, 1848.— Full service in the 
 morning at the church. Directly after the service 
 we started to walk to St. Jacques, m route for 
 English Harbour, where I was expected to conse- 
 crate a grave-yard. The road for the greater part 
 of the way is only laid out, not made : the stumps 
 of the trees are still standing, and it is very wet and 
 ^^%ZY. I was several times in over my shoes. At 
 St. Jacques we found a fishing-punt waiting for us. 
 The wind was ahead, with a very heavy sea, which 
 made rowing exceedingly troublesome. Mr. Moun- 
 tain laboured bravely at the stroke oar, but at length 
 became sick. Mr. Hoyles proposed we should re- 
 turn, as, in addition to the heavy cross sea, it was 
 now raining heavily; but Mr. MarshaU was very 
 anxious the people should not be disappointed of 
 their hope to see me. With great difficulty, and 
 not witnout some danger, we accomplished our pur- 
 pose, and got in about hajf-past two o'clock j and 
 
irrive till 
 aould get 
 tnd assist 
 lat nearly 
 is day for 
 left, this 
 accounts 
 le delibe- 
 ain over 
 Jturn by 
 Srmation 
 
 s in the 
 5 service 
 oute for 
 conse- 
 ter part 
 
 stumps 
 wet and 
 es. At 
 ■ for us. 
 9 which 
 
 Moun- 
 t length 
 uld re- 
 , it was 
 IS very 
 tited of 
 ty, and 
 jr pur- 
 ls; and 
 
 BELLBORAM. 
 
 99 
 
 then found that, as at Belleoram, the men were away 
 Irom home. I could not therefore consecrate the 
 I ground, and moreover it was raining in torrents I 
 proceeded with Messrs. Mountain and Marshall, aU 
 dnppmg wet, to the School-room, where, after the 
 weather had moderated a little, came two men with 
 a few women and children. There were some can- 
 didates for Confirmation among them, who were 
 anxious to be confirmed then and there. I toM 
 them they must come to Belleoram next Sunday if 
 possible, and if not^ I would endeavour to pay them 
 another visit. After the service, which was very 
 trymg from our wet state, we started at five o'clock 
 to return, leaving Mr. Mountain to find his way 
 back to Harbour Briton, from harbour to harbour, 
 on foot or in boat as it might chance. We had an 
 awful sea the first half the way, and did not reach 
 our hai'bour till after seven o'clock, very wet and 
 wretched, but most thankful at having got back to the 
 thurch ship without any more serious misfortune. 
 
 Friday, Sept 22.-A dripping fog diversified 
 with occasional showers of rain all day. After 
 prayers in the church, I examined the school. Mr 
 Marshall, the present Deacon Schoolmaster, follows 
 very closely the plans of his excellent and gifted 
 predecessor, the Rev. Mr. Polden ; and the most im- 
 portant results of his system stiU are seen, in the 
 great propriety and modesty of dress and behaviour, 
 anu a Willingness to be told and taught. I do not 
 remember to have seen more interesting children. 
 Saturday, Sept. 23.^Another day- of incessant 
 
100 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEVTFOtTNDLAND. 
 
 Hi 
 
 ■Hi 
 
 rain. After morning prayer I administered the 
 Holy Eucharist to a respectable old planter, who is 
 blind, and too infirm to leave the house. He seemed 
 much refreshed and comforted by the spiritual ban- 
 quet, for so he regarded and received it. I devised 
 a plan for the enlargement of the church, which is 
 much needed and desired. The people are very 
 anxious for it, and as willing to promote and perform 
 It, as formerly to build the church (which they 
 accomplished without external aid) ; but, unfortu- 
 nately, through a tax on herrings in bulk, their 
 means are much reduced and straitened. The 
 difference of their circumstances is very visible. 
 Two or three boats came back from Harbour Briton,* 
 but the majority are still detained by the thick 
 weather. 
 
 Sunday, Sept 24.~It rained all last night, but 
 happily this morning the sky cleared with a wes- 
 terly wind. I went to the Sunday-school soon after 
 ten o'clock, and catechised the boys. I preached 
 and administered the Lord's Supper to twenty-one 
 communicants, besides the Clergy. Several of the 
 communicants had not yet returned. About twelve 
 o'clock, nearly all the boats came in, (having left 
 Harbour Briton early with a fair wind,) and happily, 
 aU the candidates for Confirmation. Thirty-two were 
 confirmed in the Afternoon service. After the ser- 
 vice, I met the heads of the settlement in the school- 
 room, and spoke to them of their late minister, and 
 of the manner in which 1 proposed to enlarge the 
 church. They are a very pleasing set of men— 
 
ENGLISH HARBOUR. 
 
 101 
 
 frank, intelligent, and kind, and, as they say, very 
 " agreeable ;" that is, they agree very well among 
 themselves. I thank God for another opportunity 
 of serving them. 
 
 Monday, Sept, 25.— The anchor wa& weighed at 
 SIX o'clock, but the wind cnme ahead, and there was 
 no remedy; we must remain, and no relief but 
 in patience. 
 
 Tuesday, Sept. 26.-.It blew heavily from the 
 S.W. and we could not leave. I was fully occu- 
 pied in writing letters, but the delay was a great 
 trial. 
 
 Wednesday, Sept, 27.— Got under way soon after 
 five o'clock, and landed at English Harbour at nine 
 o'clock. The schooner stood on and off. I then 
 consecrated the neat little grave-yard, and held a 
 Confirmation, after prayers, in the school-room, to 
 the great delight of the worthy old schoolmaster, 
 who is as much interested in his school-room and 
 grave-yard as any Clergyman in his church and its 
 sacred precincts. The principal planter of the settle- 
 ment, a very respectable man, is a convert from 
 Romanism. He was present at the service.- We 
 returned on board at half-past eleven o'clock, and 
 took leave of Mr. Marshall, loth to separate. The 
 wind was light ; at sunset we were close off Grand 
 Bank. 
 
 Thursday, Sept. 28.— A breeze from E.S.E. 
 carried us out of the bay about three o'clock this 
 morning. At eight o'clock the wind was very 
 strong, and increased all day, and before evening 
 
ill 
 
 102 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 blew a fearful gale. Only one of my companions 
 left his berth, and my servant did not appear the 
 whole day. It was the heaviest gale on the coast 
 8ince the hurricane of Sept. 19, 1846. We could 
 get nothing during the day, but, towards evening, a 
 biscuit and cup of tea. We were too near Miquelon 
 to be comfortable, but when we had cleared the 
 island, the captain let the vessel drift, and we were 
 carried back some fifteen or twenty miles. 
 
 About nine o'clock at night, when the gale was at 
 the highest, the wind having just shifted to N.W 
 a vessel drifted close by us, and occasioned no smaU 
 trepidation. Of course, we did not see her until 
 she was near upon us. A light was shown, and our 
 staysail hoisted to go ahead, but the brigantine being 
 seen to do the same, ours was lowered, and the 
 brigantine went ahead, and was, happilv, soon out 
 of sight. The Church ship was sadly battered by 
 the waves, but soon after ten o'clock the wind came 
 m gusts, and began to moderate. 
 
 Michaelmas'day, Friday.— Ahoxxt three o'clock 
 this morning we made sail, the wind bein^r fair 
 though with a terribly rough and cross sea° We 
 held full service on board at eleven o'clock. At 
 three o'clock we entered the harbour of Burin. The 
 Rev. J. C. A. Gathercole was soon on board, and 
 cheered me with a comfortable account of his own 
 state and prospects. Some of the principal inhabi- 
 tants called also. 
 
 Saturday, Sept. 30.-A dripping fog came on 
 this morning, and continued all day. I am informed 
 
BuniN. 
 
 103 
 
 npaniotis 
 ►pear the 
 he coast 
 Ve could 
 ^ening, a 
 (liquelon 
 ired the 
 we were 
 
 le was at 
 oN.W., 
 no small 
 er until 
 and our 
 le being 
 and the 
 oon out 
 ?red by 
 id came 
 
 o'clock 
 g fair, 
 I. We 
 k. At 
 I. The 
 d, and 
 is own 
 inhabi- 
 
 me on 
 ^oimed 
 
 that the poor men have been prevented fishing for 
 several weeks by the very heavy weather. There 
 are fish in abundance a few miles off, but the boats 
 cannot live in the sea. In the hurricane of 1846, 
 nearly forty men of this settlement perished by the 
 upsetting of their boats. There was great distress 
 last winter ; many families were entirely supported 
 on the Indian meal supplied by the Government. 
 Through the liberality of my friends at the time of 
 the great fire, I had funds at my disposal, which I 
 could apply towards the relief of the most distressed 
 here, and in other parts of this bay, as well as at St. 
 John's. It is said that several persons would emi- 
 grate to the southern parts of the island, if they 
 had the means of removing their families, and of 
 supporting them for two or three weeks. 
 
 I went on shore to make calls, and to examine 
 the school-room, with a view to its completion and 
 fitting up as a church. At present it is a mere 
 frame, which has been standing in that state several 
 years, ever since Bishop Spencer placed it there, 
 intending it should be completed as a school-room, 
 and a Teacher's house. But, alas! the Teacher 
 came not, or, at least, remained not. Two Clergy- 
 men in succession were setit here by Bishop Spencer, 
 but remained only a few months, and with that ex- 
 ception, no Clergyman has resided here for thirty 
 years ; and yet, of a population of fifteen hundred 
 
 Deraons. onft-thirrl rpfnmofl +lioTv»ool»Trtn o#. 4.U^ 1 4. 
 
 i -- — 7 .. « ..v'v.t. t/wt/iiicvx T CO at, blic; JlU3b 
 
 census as members of the Church. The remaining 
 two-thirds are about equally divided between the 
 
J 04 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUSDLAND. 
 
 Methodists and Roman Catholics; and of great 
 numHrs of these the parents were Church people, 
 i-oor Mr. Gathercole has a very difficult and dis- 
 heartening work, and great credit is due to him for 
 the manly Christian courage with which he contends 
 single-handed against the « many adversaries." Be- 
 S1..SS his flock at Burin, he has many scattered 
 sheep at various settlements along the coast down to 
 Xammeline, at which last-named place are several 
 hundred who would be members of the Church, but 
 they have all, alas ! been left in the same destitute 
 state. A visit to these settlements occupies some 
 weeks; and then there is no person to watch or 
 tend the flock in Burin. A Methodist minister and 
 two Roman Catholic priests have long resided there. 
 Smdai,, Ort.l._ Divine service in the Court- 
 house at eleven o'clock. Room quite fulL I preached 
 and administered the Holy Sacrament to twelve 
 communicants besides the Clergy. In the after 
 noon the room was crowded, and several persons 
 could not gain admittance. The congregation was 
 satisfactory in behaviour as well as in number • 
 much advanced since my visit three years ago. The 
 keeper of the Court-house, who, on that occasion, 
 so earnestly appealed to me on the neglected and 
 forsaken state of the Church at Burin, accosted me 
 to-day with very different feelings and expressions. 
 He now assured me of his thankfulness and satis- 
 
 laction, and of thp. nomforf ir. /v-u .•_ ,, 
 
 - '-'=• ^'^ iciL iu aiienaiiior the 
 
 services of the Church, and in having a Clergyman 
 to console and direct him. After waiting forty-two 
 
REV, J. C. A. GATHERCOLE. 
 
 105 
 
 of great 
 h people, 
 and dis- 
 > him for 
 contends 
 3s." Be- 
 scattered 
 down to 
 i several 
 irch, but 
 iestitute 
 es some 
 'atch or 
 ster and 
 d there. 
 
 Court- 
 reached 
 twelve 
 
 after- 
 persons 
 on v/as 
 imber ; 
 ). The 
 casion, 
 ■d and 
 ed me 
 ssions. 
 satis- 
 ig the 
 ryman 
 y-two 
 
 years he had almost despaired ; now, he only hoped 
 and prayed that the benefit and blessing might be 
 continued to himself and his neighbours. Alas ! if 
 he should be again doomed to disappointment, if 
 the prophecy, 
 
 " Ostendent terris hunc tantum fata, nee ultr^ 
 Esse sinent," * 
 
 should apply to J. C. A. Gathercole (the man of 
 many names but of single purpose),!— if he should 
 be removed by sickness or any other casualty, who 
 then could be expected,— with Methodism on one 
 side and Romanism on the other, and both in full 
 vigour,--who could be expected to be stedfast in 
 the faith, and true to a Church which only sends 
 forth occasional gleams of imperfect and uncertain 
 light, and then leaves all in thicker darkness and 
 sadder gloom ? And what, in fact, has been yet 
 
 * Virgil. Mn. VI. 870. 
 
 t These remarks were written on the spot, or before I left 
 Placentia Bay. Alas ! that my fears and forebodings were 
 too sadly verified ! In the beginning of December Mr. Gather- 
 cole was taken seriously ill at Lammeline, the settlement in 
 his Mission most remote from Burin ; and by the last accounts 
 I received, was reported as keeping his bed in a very preca- 
 rious state, with but small prospect of resuming his faithful 
 labours. Such is the difficulty of communication in New- 
 foundland, that I could obtain no intelligence from or of him 
 for nearly three weeks before I left St. John's. I was able, 
 however, by God's good providence, to send a brother to his 
 assistance, and to carry on the good works he had begun; 
 and among them the alteration of the school-room into a 
 church. (St. John's, Dec. 21.) 
 
106 
 
 WOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 done ? A Deacon sent to minister to nearly 2 000 
 souls scattered along a line of coast of aboui 80 
 or 100 miles in length , with no other Clergyman 
 tn bm fifty miles, and no Priest of our Church 
 within a hundred ; without a church, a residence, 
 or any school in his district on recognised Churcl 
 principles ? Does he not with, and for his people, 
 cry plainly enough, without speaking the words. 
 Come over and help us ?» And this, indeed, is 
 1..S cry, and the chief desire of his heart, to find 
 some true yoke-fellow, who, while he must be wan- 
 dering up and down on the coast, might minister to 
 lus larger flock in Burin, and guard them from those 
 who, on either side, lie in wait to deceive. His own 
 ease and comfort, in having a companion and fellow- 
 helper, are of a secondary importance in his view • 
 but no person can doubt that the benefit would in' 
 this respect also be very great to himself and his 
 people. 
 
 ,i J!",""- 7"'. ? <=«"«"»«««»• Mr. Gathercole 
 "ghtly judged that, as he had been so little time 
 with his people, and for many years before they 
 had been quite removed from all knowledge of the 
 Ordinances and Sacraments of the Church, it would 
 be a very delicate and difficult duty to recommend 
 candidates and present them. 
 
 While Mr. Gathercole and I were walking and 
 talking together after the Service, we were joined 
 by a respectable planter, who had b.«" »».~i.:— 
 for us, wishing, as he said, to tell me his"troubi'e° 
 He professed himself a sincere son of the Church 
 
HAfiBOUR BUFFET. 
 
 107 
 
 'ly 2,000 
 ibout 80 
 ergyman 
 
 Church 
 Jsidence, 
 
 Church 
 » people, 
 
 words, 
 ideed, is 
 
 to find 
 i)e wan- 
 lister to 
 m those 
 lis own 
 fellow* 
 » view ; 
 ould in 
 md his 
 
 fiercole 
 e time 
 2 they 
 of the 
 would 
 imend 
 
 S and 
 joined 
 chin;? 
 3uble. 
 lurch. 
 
 and most thankful to attend the services, as he had 
 done twice to-day; but his trouble was, that of thir- 
 teen children and grandchildren, not one would 
 accompany him. All had been baptized by the 
 Roman Catholic Priest, and embraced the Romish 
 faith. He acknowledged that it was with his con- 
 sent and approval that they had been so baptized ; 
 "/or what," he asked " could I do, when there was 
 no other Clergyman in Biirin, and no prospect of 
 seeing one?" Some of them had accompanied him 
 to the door of the Court-house, and had waited for 
 him ; — but his grief was thn* they could not enter 
 and worship with him. He saw no remedy : — but 
 he earnestly hoped and prayed that Mr. Gathercole 
 might continue among them, and a church be built ; 
 and that he might have the consolations of religion in 
 the faith in which he had been baptized and brought 
 up. He came as a young man from Nottingham. 
 
 Monday^ Oct. 2.— Though very desirous of fur- 
 ther discourse with Mr. Gathercole and the people 
 of Burin, particularly as to the alterations of the 
 school-room to serve for a church, I was yet afraid 
 to lose a fair wind. We got away about seven o'clock, 
 and by three o'clock were close to Buffet Harbour, 
 having run nearly sixty miles in eight hours. We 
 were, however, upwards of two hours beating in, 
 and great was my disappointment to find that the 
 Rev. W. K. White was in another part of his exten- 
 sive Mission, at Oderin, some forty miles off, which 
 we had passed to-day. 
 
 Tuesday, Oct, 3.— The wind was against Mr. 
 
108 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 
 White, and it wa, impossible for him to return I 
 
 v~r ' '■" """'"' ="' ''''' ^"^ ^-"o -y -"- 
 
 TF.^«..rf„y O.,. 4.-M... White's boat arrived 
 th s mornmg, having been out all night. He left 
 O^fenn at three o'clock yesterday afternoon d 
 Janng only one man on board, he was obIig;d to 
 
 oook.t blew hard, and his boat is but a "Icewardly " 
 one. After Prayers in the church, I spent the 
 ™orn,ng «r. White, hearing his'triaU and S 
 
 and wlf 'f "^ ""' '''- - %f-' - ^- district, 
 and which for extent, might well be a diocese 
 
 The prevalence of Methodism appears to have 1: 
 .erated an unhealthy, u„ki„d {J.l,, ^u.uZZ 
 ^rmally man.festing itself in petty acts of hindrance 
 and opposuaon. That the people should feel in 
 debte to the Methodist teachers and preache" and 
 unwiUmg to desert them, we cannot wonder or;om- 
 
 on^LJ ? r "■'""'""'''■ '°' ^"'^ """y y«»" they 
 onty have taken any account of the spiritual state 
 
 and necessities of the Protestant population ,b 
 
 iow good soever the men and the.r motives, here 
 
 appears to result from their system a want of sb 
 
 centy and of sing.e-mindedness.'which makel ft'd fflj 
 
 that the Church may redeem some of her past and 
 long neglect, by setting forth and maintain 'a 
 more hnalfliT, j i,.i_ _ "b "■ 
 
 je bear patiently with the faults and offences 
 wh.ch have grown „p i„ and through our denial 
 
BORDEALX. 
 
 109 
 
 of better instructions ! In the evening service I 
 preached on the subject of Confirmation. The day 
 was fine, and as the wind had abated, the cold was 
 not so severe, and I was allowed to defer the setting 
 up the stove in the great cabin, which was loudly 
 called for yesterday, 
 
 Thursday, Oct 5.— At seven o'clock we sailed 
 for Woody Island at the head of Placentia Bay. The 
 wind was so light, that we made but about eight 
 miles in five hours. At one o'clock we landed at 
 a little settlement called Bourdeaux, to apprise the 
 inhabitants of my intention of holding a Confirma- 
 tion to-morrow at Woody Island. This was for- 
 merly a French settlement, and the land had been 
 cleared by the French. The present occupier is an 
 Englishman from Sturminster, who has brought a 
 considerable quantity of land under cultivation, and 
 grows wheat, barley, and oats. The wheat has 
 ripened well this year, and has been reaped. His 
 turnips and other vegetables are remarkably fine. 
 He keeps also many head of cattle, and supplies seve- 
 ral places in the bay with meat We received a 
 large supply of carrots, parsnips, turnips, and cab- 
 bages, with a bottle of milk. The farm is exceed- 
 ingly picturesque, as well as fruitful. Just before 
 the house is a salt-water lake, which rises and falls 
 with the tide, though its connexion with the sea is 
 not ' ^^Ible. We reached Woody Island just at 
 sunset, and were full two hours more creeping into 
 the harbour. 
 Friday, Oct. 6.— The anniversary of my landing 
 
110 DIOCESE OF NEWPOCNDLAND. 
 
 at Torquay in 1846, after my perilous journey across 
 
 he Atlant.c m the good Cturch ship. If I had time 
 
 to indulge m contrasts, something considerable might 
 
 position and circumstances ; but I have no time to 
 write what I may, or rather must, think and feel. 
 
 The church here is a mere shell , no seats, door 
 not hung, ceiling not finished. I therefore did 
 not consent to consecrate. By the help of some 
 boards and flour barrels, with a table and chair 
 the room .was decently furnished for service I 
 preached and administered the Holy Commu- 
 nion. There was the usual exhibition of sob- 
 bing and crying, which is practised generally by 
 
 T mT . " '"'"" •"*" "'«'«' *'"' *«««hing of 
 the Methodists. It seems part of their system to 
 
 vol/ru "■ '"""^^ ""' exhibit them"; Some 
 young children were very noisy and troublesome. 
 The mothers were with them, but it seems «> pait 
 of their system to correct or restrain them. Some 
 fifteen or sixteen persons, chiefly men, communi- 
 cated; in the afternoon I confirmed. Some lads 
 1 rejected as too young, and otherwise ill-prepared 
 Many men whose names were on the list, refused to 
 come forward, on the old dissenting pretext of not 
 bemg able to keep their promise, and therefore 
 thinking It better not to make one. There is great 
 desire and great need of a school in this place A 
 
 respectable Teneli"'- wk.^ „ u _. , ., .' 
 
 o ", , ~"~ — ' """^""'"'eaa ine service on 
 Sundays here and at Sound Island, in default of a 
 Clergyman, might be. with God's blessing, of ineal- 
 
HARBOUB BUFFBT. 
 
 m 
 
 ey across 
 had time 
 Je might 
 ' present 
 
 time to 
 I feel. 
 Its, door 
 'ore did 
 >f some 
 d chair, 
 nee. I 
 ^ommu- 
 3f sob- 
 ally by 
 tiing of 
 item to 
 
 Some 
 lesome. 
 aopart 
 
 Some 
 imum'- 
 e lads 
 spared, 
 ised to 
 of not 
 refore 
 great 
 3. A 
 ice on 
 ; of a 
 incal- 
 
 culable benefit to the people, old and young, in their 
 temporal and spiritual concerns. The land seems 
 veiy good for pasture and garden produce, but it id 
 t!oo, far, they say, from the fishing-grounds, and the: 
 people generally are very poor; We were unable 
 to leave this evening, in consequence of heavy rain>, 
 with a strong south-east wind. 
 
 Saturday, Oct, 7.-— The wind was fair, and we 
 reached Harbour Buffet soon after nine o'clock, 
 having performed the run, (eighteen miles,) which 
 occupied the whole of Thursday, in about two hours 
 and a quarter. Prayers in the church at eleven 
 o'clock, and again at five o'clock, when I addressed 
 the candidates for Confirmation. 
 
 Three lads came before me to-day, who had 
 written home to their friends in England, to com- 
 plain of the treatment they had received from their 
 master. They were from Crowle, in Worcester- 
 shire; and the Clergyman of a neighbouring parish 
 had written to me at the request of the parents of 
 the lads, to beg me to inquire into their case. They 
 came before me at their master's desire, and were 
 invited to speak freely; but they advanced nothing 
 to sustain the charge. I have no doubt they live 
 and work hard, but so did every member of the 
 family last winter; I therefore could only admonish 
 the lads, and comfort them in loco parentis. 
 
 Sunday, Oct. 8.— Went to the Sunday-school at 
 ten o'clock, which was well attended, and apparently 
 well regulated. My three lads from Crowle were 
 present, and I heard them read, and repeat the 
 
112 
 
 WOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 Collect Some of the natives are very well in- 
 structed. I preached, and celebrated the Lord's 
 hupper. Twenty-three communicants. In the 
 afternoon I again visited the Sunday-school, and 
 catechised the children, and heard some very youns 
 ones repeat their prayers. 
 
 In the afternoon service, three children were 
 baptized. I confirmed in the usual way. The 
 number was small. In the evening I wrote a mani- 
 festo, to be read to the people after my departure, on 
 the general state of their parish in spiritualibus. 
 
 Monday, Oct. 9.-Sailed with a fine wind for 
 Placentm, which we reached by half-past ten o'clock. 
 Lnhappy Placentia! The restoration of the church 
 by the Queen Dowager's great bounty, which I 
 hoped would be an occasion of union, peace, and 
 joy to the few Church members who remain in 
 this settlement, seems to have given birth to nothin.. 
 but stnfe. The work in the church has been shame"- 
 tuliy done ; much of it must be renewed. 
 
 About sixteen persons assembled to Divine ser- 
 vice! I preached. It was exceedingly cold. Some 
 snow had fallen in the morning, and the wind swept 
 round the poor desolate church, but was not so 
 unkind and did not bite anything so nigh, as the 
 mg.at,tude of the naughty men of the place. I 
 spoke to them separately and privately after the 
 service, and exhorted them to strive and pray 
 
 against their bad temnHrs. T ^«^e,e.,n . , 
 
 the Church, and took a note of what has been done, 
 what yet it remains to do. 
 
 
 and 
 
ISLE OF VALE», 
 
 113 
 
 
 Three lads were reported as candidates for Con- 
 firmation, but the only one whom I judged old 
 enough, was absent at Little Placentia, and could 
 not be brought in time. Afternoon service at four 
 o clock, when I again preached. 
 
 Tue,d^y, Oct. 10.->The wind being fair for the 
 Isle of Valen, we started for that place at an early 
 hour. I looked upon poor Placentia as we went 
 out of the harbour with feelings of grief and shame, 
 such as I hardly remember to have experienced 
 before. We reached the Isle of Valen by eleven 
 o clock, and held service in the church. Avery 
 small congregation. Most of the men and lads are 
 absent, getting wood for the winter. At the After- 
 noon service, I confirmed three persons, out of a 
 list of upwards of thirty. 
 
 Wedne^dxxy, Oct, ll.-It was a very tempestuous 
 night, raining and blowing furiously; and the 
 creakmg of the cable and hawser by which we were 
 moored, was sufficient to disturb a mind and body 
 ill at ease. At ten o'clock this morning we went 
 on shore, and I preached and administered the Holy 
 Communion to eight persons, all females. The poor 
 men, who seemed simple-minded and sincere, pro- 
 fessed themselves desirous to receive, but unable to 
 overcome their fear of receiving unworthily. In 
 the evening a fair wind sprung up, and, in our 
 
 anxiety to get forward, we wfiiVhp/l o,jni.«« 
 
 trary to our usual practice, after sunset. We got 
 out of the little harbour about nine o'clock, with a 
 bright r -»n, en route for Oderin. 
 
 if 
 
114 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 Thursday f Oct, 12. — ^We came to anchor in 
 Oderin harbour this morning at daybreak. Soon 
 after six o'clock, the Rev. U. K. White went on shore 
 to provide for a service. The upper loft of a store 
 was kindly furnished for the occasion by the resi- 
 dent merchant, a Roman Catholic, who, with true 
 indifferency, furnishes it both to the Methodists and 
 to ourselves — first come, first served. Only two 
 Sundays ago, Mr. White and the Methodist preacher 
 by accident met here ; but the preacher had arrived 
 first and obtained the loan of the store, and whether 
 for the st6re, or for John Wesley, or for the preacher, 
 nearly all the people gave attendance there, and 
 Mr. White could scarcely muster the two or three 
 for a congregation. There was, therefore, some 
 considerable doubt whether it would be possible, or 
 whether proper, if possible, to assemble the people 
 for Divine service. I thought it right to make the 
 attempt. On landing, I was very kindly and re- 
 spectfully greeted by the Roman Catholic merchant. 
 I went directly to the store and found it filled, and 
 nowhere had I met a better behaved congregation. 
 I addressed them with such instructions and admo- 
 nitions as were suited to their case and conduct. 
 At three o'clock we had a second service, and the 
 same persons as in the morning, or not fewer, were 
 in attendance. I concluded, therefore, that my 
 remarks on Methodism had not greatly offended 
 them. As the wind was fair, we got under way 
 immediately after service, and were saluted on going 
 out by repeated discharges of muskets and sealing 
 
FERUYLAND. 
 
 115 
 
 guns. The merchant most kindly presented us with 
 two large loaves, four bottles of milk, a sheep, and 
 vegetables. On the whole, I had as much reason 
 to be pleased and satisfied with my reception at 
 Oderin, and to hope for good results from it, 
 as at any place in the bay. Mr. White here 
 took his leave, as our next stage (if God will) 
 should carry us far out of his Mission. The cir- 
 cuit which we have now completed with him, (and 
 there are many other stations in his Mission, at 
 which I could not call,) is not of less extent than 
 100 miles. 
 
 Friday, Oct. 13. — At two o'clock we were off 
 Cape Race, where we saw several pieces of a recent 
 wreck j some thrown up on the shore, some still 
 floating on the water. Why was it not the good 
 Church ship? why,— but because God has been 
 gracious and merciful, far beyond our deserts. The 
 day was fine, though cold, and the sailing pleasant. 
 I had occasion and opportunity to reflect with won- 
 der and gratitude on the many mercies of this pro- 
 tracted voyage of fourteen weeks yesterday. We 
 had intended to go into Renews, but as we did not 
 reach it till sunset, and our captain did not know it, 
 we stood on for Ferryland. This was a disappoint- 
 ment to me, as I had wished to spend the Sunday at 
 Renews. It was between eight and nine o'clock 
 when we reached Ferrvland. T spnt n W^o* for « 
 pilot, who, with God's good hand upon us, helped us 
 in, and brought us safely to anchor about eleven 
 o'clock. It was a great mercy, for very soon after, 
 
116 
 
 DIOCESE OF NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 the wind began to breeze up from the north-east, 
 which would have driven us back. 
 ^ Saturday, Oct. 14.~It blew furiously this morn- 
 ing from the north-east, so that, though within a 
 cable's length of the shore, we could hold no com- 
 munication whatever with the inhabitants. I have 
 seen nothing like it this season. Jf we had not 
 entered and anchored last niglit, we .V:,,uld be now 
 to the westward of Cape Race, without any hope of 
 making a harbour by Sunday.* I knew not how to 
 be thankful enough. At five o'clock we were able 
 to land, and went immediately to the church and 
 gave thanks for our safe arrival. We spent the 
 evening with the Rev. H. H. Hamilton, and made 
 arrangements and preparations for the services of 
 to-morrow, 
 
 Sunday, Oct. 15.— The morning was fine, though 
 the wind was still high and very cold. The Httle 
 church was well attended. All the Protestants in 
 the place, except two or three sick persona, were 
 present at the service. Eight or nine communicated. 
 In the afternoon I ga- Confirmation to the candi- 
 dates from this and the nuo] >ouring settlements of 
 Aquafort. An influential inhabitant of the latter 
 place has lately conformed to the Roman Catholic 
 
 * A fine sailing vessel which bore us company all yesterday, 
 and stood in for St. John's in the evening, and neaxiy 
 reached it (within about twenty miles), was driven back in 
 ims gaie and did not recover the lost ground till the follow- 
 ing Tuesday (four days). There were numerous wrecks on the 
 f oast m this gale. 
 
KENEWS. 
 
 orth-east, 
 
 lis morn- 
 within a 
 no Com- 
 I have 
 hud not 
 I be now 
 ' hope of 
 t how to 
 ere able 
 rch and 
 »ent the 
 td made 
 vices of 
 
 though 
 le little 
 tants in 
 a, were 
 nicated. 
 
 candi- 
 lents of 
 5 latter 
 ^atholic 
 
 sterdav, 
 nearly 
 back in 
 i follow- 
 B on the 
 
 117 
 
 faith, and has used his utmost endeavours to induce 
 his large family to follow his example. But though 
 some have fallen away, I have reason to hope and 
 believe, that on the whole, his desertion has had the 
 effect of making his relations and neighbours more 
 concerned to prove and improve their churc^hman- 
 ship. How have I sighed and prayed this day for 
 the restoration of unity, that we all might be one, 
 even as Thou, Father, art in Christ, and Christ in 
 Thee ! 
 
 Mondat/, Oct. 16.-We sailed this morning for 
 Renews at an early hour, but the wind being very 
 light, we were not off the bay till ten o'clock, and it 
 took us an hour to beat in. The entrance is very 
 critical, with some shoals and sunken rocks. We 
 had therefore brought a pilot from Ferryland. 
 Several of the Protestant inhabitants came off to' 
 meet and greet us. I told them my first care was 
 to worship with them, and that I was ready to 
 accompany them to their place of prayer. This is 
 but a poor room in a poor house, but nicely furnished 
 for the occasion. I preached and administered the 
 Holy Communion in the morning, and confirmed in 
 the afternoon. A little church (twenty-five by 
 sixteen feet) is in progress, and I met the inhabit- 
 ants who are interested in the work, to consult with 
 them how it might be completed. There are only 
 five Protestant families in the place. One member of 
 our Church is married to a Roman Catholic wife, but 
 he brings his children up in his own faith, and one 
 of them was this day confirmed by me ; and yet it 
 
118 
 
 DIOCESE OP NEWFOUNDLAND. 
 
 is suspected that they have been secretly baptized 
 by the Koman Catholic priest, and thar. when their 
 father dies they will conform to the Romish faith. 
 Such are the practices of those who compass sea and 
 land to make one proselyte. I spent the evening 
 with some of the merchants, who were favourable 
 specimens of Devonshire folk, from Paignton in 
 Torbay. One of them had made thirty-seven voyages 
 across the Atlantic, and never met with an accident. 
 I mentioned, with no little satisfaction, that we had 
 performed our long coasting voyage, in and out of 
 so many strange harbours, through fog and among 
 icebergs ; and, during the last month, in such tem- 
 pestuous weather as is rarely experienced even on 
 this shore, almost without scratching the ship's side. 
 All admitted we had been highly favoured, especially 
 considering the stormy season. 
 
 Tuesday, Oct. 17.— Whether to rebuke us for 
 undue complacency and self-gratulation at the suc- 
 cess of our voyage, or to teach us at the end of every 
 work not less than at the beginning to look to God 
 for help and protection, we this morning, the very 
 last, as we hoped, of our journey, met with our first 
 disaster. The wind was blowing very fresh, as we 
 got under way, and the anchor came home sooner 
 than was expected, and we did not fore-reach soon 
 enough to escape drifting down upon a vessel, which, 
 since our arrival yesterday, had anchored just astern. 
 Her bowsprit came right an end against our main- 
 mast, and her head stove in some of our bulwarks. 
 Fortunately we had a large crew on board, having 
 
EETURN TO ST. JOHN*S. 
 
 119 
 
 baptized 
 len their 
 ih faith. 
 
 sea and 
 evening 
 ^curable 
 nton in 
 voyages 
 ccident. 
 
 we had 
 I out of 
 
 among 
 ch tem- 
 jven on 
 3's side, 
 pecially 
 
 us for 
 he suc- 
 f every 
 to God 
 le very 
 ur first 
 
 as we 
 sooner 
 h soon 
 which, 
 astern. 
 
 main- 
 warks, 
 laving 
 
 given a passage to St. John's to four men from that 
 very ship. A boat also came from shore and brought 
 us a kedge anchor, by which we were drawn clear 
 without further damage. In little more than an 
 hour and a half we were off Ferryland, after passing 
 which the wind suddenly failed, and came in most 
 uncertain and suspicious flaws. It was not till half- 
 past six o'clock that a breeze sprang up. At nine 
 o'clock we were beating into the Narrows, and by 
 half-past nine were safely anchored in St. John's 
 Harbour ; preserved, I trust, in mercy to remember 
 the mercy, and to show our gratitude by devoting 
 our lives and persons to his service and praise,^who 
 has been and is our Preserver, our Father and our 
 God. To Him be glory through Jesus Christ for 
 ever. Amen. 
 
 I remained on board, having no house or home on 
 shore, and well content with my Church ship. 
 
 Wednesday, St. Luke's day. — I did not go on 
 shore till the time of Divine service (eleven o'clock), 
 when, to praise God for his goodness and declare the 
 wonders that he has done for me and mine, I went 
 up to the house of prayer, and there with my com- 
 panions publicly returned humble and hearty thanks 
 for our preservation, and our return in safety and 
 peace. We received also the Holy Communion, 
 which was celebrated at my desire. Thus did we 
 endftavnnr to nrm'sp C^nA in ♦^^ /»opni-i.£»nr.of;^xv. ^f* uCr. 
 
 saints, and exalt Him in the seat of the elders ; but 
 when I reflect on the great and manifold mercies 
 vouchsafed to us, methinks I ought to stop people 
 
120 DI0CE3B OF NEWFOUNPLAIJD. 
 
 in the streets, and cry with pious David, « O come 
 hither and hearken, all ye that fear God, and I will 
 tell you what He hath done for my soul !" I returned 
 to my cabin in the evening, and continued to occupy 
 It all alone, and to sleep every night on board till 
 the festival of St. Simon and Jude, October 28th. 
 The good Church ship was then laid up for the 
 winter. 
 
come 
 i I will 
 Jturned 
 occupy 
 ard till 
 r 28th. 
 for the 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
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124 
 
 APPENDIX, 
 
 THE LORD'S PRAYER IN THE ESQUIMAUX 
 LANGUAGE. 
 
 !»,!?!'"«''-, °"^- - '^""''™' ''"'""Sme ! Akkit nakori- 
 n^V '^"l"^?""" '"'"'"••«; Perkojettit malliktaulit, 
 nuname sorlo k.l angme. Urlome piksaptingnik tunni! 
 
 igut Ajormyut issumagijungnerkit, sorlo uvagut 
 nvaptingnut ujortat issumagajungnerpavut ; ^ 
 
 Oktorlungnartomut pitinatu ; piulittiguUe ajortunnit. 
 .r.;! • ^'i'Sannek, pitsartunerlo, unanaunerlo pigi- 
 gangne issokangitomut. '^^ 
 
 K. Amen, 
 
 account of the services of the Newfoundland Church 
 ship since placed at my disposal. 
 
 In the year 1844 she came from England, in the 
 »onth of September, bringing a ClergyLn 'a:d hi 
 Wife, and two gentlemen, who have since been or- 
 darned, and are both now employed in the Colony 
 Ihis voyage was only of sixteen days. 
 
 far as Twillingate, and then the southern and western 
 coasts, as far as St. George's Bay-in all about 2te^ 
 hundred miles I was afloat nearly three month anS 
 visited many phices to the westward, where no Bishop 
 of our Church had ever caUed before. • ^ 
 
 1846.-I returned in the Church ship from Rprm,,^. 
 
 W tf "':,«"'^,^'^<'*» - the month of May ;ith;w 
 lying to and reached St. John's in nine days_a very 
 favourable passage. I then visited all the settlement! 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 125 
 
 nakori- 
 iktaulit, 
 k tunni- 
 
 uvagut 
 
 rtuiinit. 
 lo pigi- 
 
 nd the 
 I short 
 Ilhurch 
 
 in the 
 id his 
 n or- 
 olony. 
 
 1st, as 
 Jstern 
 xteen 
 », and 
 ishop 
 
 •"> 
 
 ;hout 
 very 
 lents 
 
 to the northward of St. John's, as far as Exploits Burnt 
 Island ; and in the month of September sailed for Eng- 
 land on an important mission, and was graciously pre- 
 served in that fearful hurricane of September 19, which 
 was the cause of so many wrecks and of such loss of 
 property and life on the whole Atlantic. The Church 
 ship was in commission nearly six months this year, 
 and sailed in the direct course about 5,000 miles. Itook 
 home with me to England a sick Clergyman and one of 
 my pupils, and two other persons wanting a passage. 
 After the hurricane we were only sixteen days in cross- 
 ing to England, and we landed at Torquay on the 6th 
 of October. The Church ship was laid up for the 
 winter at Teignmouth, needing repairs as well as rest. 
 In the hurricane she had lost her mainsail, gaff, top- 
 mast, and staysail; her bulwarks and toprail >ere 
 started in several places, and one gangway-door was 
 washed away. 
 
 1847.— The Church ship returned to St. John's with 
 a precious cargo in the month of May. The Rev. 
 C. Rouse, the Rev. J. G. Mountain, Mr. White, (to be 
 ordained.) and Messrs. Colley and Crosse, (to be em- 
 ployed as Catechists.) Mrs. White also, and two Misses 
 Blackman, (the daughters of a Clergyman,) with the 
 Captain's wife, were passengers. They arrived on 
 Whit-Tuesday, the very day of commencing the foun- 
 dations of the new cathedral church. As I did not 
 intend to leave St. John's, the Church ship was lent 
 to Government for the summer, to convey provisions 
 &c. to various out-harbours suffering from the failure 
 of last year's fishery and crops. She was in commission 
 
 till NnvpmKpr 
 
 1848.— The services of the good Church ship in this 
 year are detailed at greater length in the extracts from 
 my Journal, chiefly an account of the Labrador. In 
 
126 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Other respects the Visitations of 1845 and 1846 were of 
 equal interest and importance. The importance, indeed, 
 of those Visitations was abundantly proved and mani- 
 fested by the results which I saw with jo/ in my last 
 voyage. I cannot be sufficiently thankful that I was 
 enabled to occupy the ground at Burin, Harbour Briton, 
 and La Poele, at a most critical juncture. How much 
 do I and the Church owe to the sacred ship ! 
 
 A Map of the Coast of Labrador will be found in No. 19 of the " Church 
 IB the Colonies,"— A Visit to Labrador. 
 
! were of 
 , indeed, 
 id mani- 
 my last 
 t I was 
 • Briton, 
 w much 
 
 " Church