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Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too lerge to be entirely included In one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, aa many frames m required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Los cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., pouvent Atre fiimis A des teux do rMuetlon diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reprodult en un soul clichA, 11 est fllmA A partir da Tangle supArieur gauche, do geuche A droite, et do haut en bes, en prenent ki nombre d'imagea nAcesselre. Los diagrammes suKrents illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 I a H t> a I \- B 91 K f ( '') \ y '•# i; I ".l<- a a « H s e a a >2 •»■: A THE JOURNAL OF THB BISHOP OF MONTREAL, DURING A VISIT TO THB CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY'S NORTH-WEST AMERICA MISSION. TO WBICH IS FBBnXXD, BT THB SBCBBTABIB8, AN INTRODUCTION, GIVING AM ACCOUNT OF THE FORMATION OF THE MISSION, AND ITS PROGRESS TO AUGUST 1848. Shttzxia lElittion* \iiU%i* FLEET STREET, and HANOVER STREET; LONDON : MDCCCXLIX. A M Seelejft Printer. **, ADVERTISEMENT TO THE FIRST EDITION. The Bishop of Montreal having kindly proposed to the Committee of the Church Missionary Society to visit their Mission at the Red River, in Prince Rupert's Land, they most thank^lly accepted the proposal ; and made every arrangement in their power to facilitate his Lordship's arduous hut Christian undertaking. The following Letters, written to the Secretary of the Society, relate the circumstances of the visit. The Bishop has entrusted the Society with the puhUcation of them, and has requested that whatever profits may arise there- from may be reserved till a fund shall a^b^i ^ ADVEBTISSMENT. f be opened for the endowment of a Bishopric for Prince Rupert's Land. The Committee of the Church Mis- sionary Society most cordially concur in his Lordship's earnest appeal for the speedy accomplishment of a measure, which, under the Divine blessing, would have a great and beneficial influence upon the operations of the Society in that remote, but interesting, sphere of its labours. Church Missionary House^ May 1845.' ^ * CONTEXTS. INTRODUCTION. PAOl Am Historical Notice of the Formation and Pro- gress OP THE Mission of the Church Missio* NARY Society in Prince Rupert's Land : Geographical Position and Inhabitants of Prince Rupert^sLand ii Earliest Labours of the Society, throueh the Rev. J. West 1 a f V CBI* ••• ,,• III Formation of the North- West America Mission ... viii Building of a Church x Entrance of the Rev. D. T. Jones on Jie Mission, and Departure of Mr. West zii Completion of a Second Church — Trials and Pro- gress of the Mission ziv Erection of a Third Church xviii Formation of the Indian Settlement xz Commencement of Agricultural and Building Operations xxiii Change in the Locality of the Settlement — Esta- blisnment of a School and Week-day Lecture, xxvi First Baptisms at the Settlement — Hopeful Deatn of an Adult Indian xxx Establishment of a LordVday E/ening Service zxxii Further Evidence of Vital lUligion xxxiii Erection of a Flour-miil xxxiv Rebuilding of the Upper Church— Establishment of wCuOOlS ••• ••• ■•• ••• •*• ••• ••• •••• ••• AAA V Trials of the Mission — Death of Mrs. Jones zxxvi Illustrations of the Effect of the Gospel zxxviii Progress of the Indian Settlement xli Return of Mr. Jones to England— Appeal for more Missionaries, and Arrival out oi the Rev. J. Smithurst xliii CONTENTS. 1 ! ' Present Condition of the Indian Settlement Arrival of the Rev. A. Cowley, and Mr. J. Roberts — Return of Mr. Roberts Arrangements for the Upper, Middle, and Lower Churches— Building of a New Church at the Rapids — Arrival of the Rev. R. James Formation of the Cumberland Station — Appointment to it of the Rev. J. Hunter, and his Arrival ... Progress of the Cumberland Station Death of Mrs. Hunter Formation and Progressof a branch Station at Lac- la-Rongo Openin{i;s at Islei iir-tiT ■ n'n^iif'^rhil'iMiTtrtii XIU At the end of this time, Mr. West sailed for England, and Mr. Jones, with two Indian boys brought by Mr. West from Fort Churchill, pro- ceeded on his journey to the Red River, where he immediately entered on the sphere of labour occupied by his predecessor. The account of his proceedings which Mr. Jones was enabled to send home in the summer of 1824 was most encouraging. He met with much countenance and support from the Authorities of the Hudson's Bay Com- pany. The Church had not only been crowded all the winter, but had become much too small to contain the Congregation, so that it became necessary to commence the erection of an addi- tional Church. There were twelve Indian boys and two girls in the Establishment. The number of Sunday-scholars had increased to 169. And the eagerness of some of the Half-breed youths to obtain instruction, as well as the progress of the Indian children, and the susceptibility of religious feeling manifested by them, were exceed- ingly encouraging. In reference to the Congregation, Mr. Jones wrote — It is truly gratifying to my soul, on the Lord's-day morning, to look out of my window, and see the peo- i \ i; 1 V ! !■ I r 1 XIV pie coming in groyps, as far as the eye can reach , and my pleasure is doubly heightened, when I pr^r* ceive them, as they pass, to be principally Half-breed Natives and Indians. I am ready to cry, from the impulse of congenial feeling with the Psalmist, " I was glad when they said unto me, Let us go into the House of the Lord. . . whither the tribes go up, the tribes of the Lord, unto the testimony of Israel, to give thanks unto the name of the Lord." Completion of a Second Church — Trials and Progress of the Mission, On the thirtieth of January in the following year, 1825, the New Church was completed and opened for Divine Service. It was built on a plain called Image Plain, about six miles lower down the Settlement than the Upper Church. The Settlers subscribed liberally, according to their means, toward its erection. The Con- gregations at both Churches were large and at- tentive. Mr. Jones at this time remarked — The work of the Lord is growing daily. ' an» I i.- ''y a day without some new encouragement io proceed. In the autumn of this year Mr. Jones was joined by the Rev. W. Cockran, to whose cha- '1. racter and labours a moKt favourabl' and ju-t tes- timony is borne by the Bishop. One event, which occurred at the close of this year, must not be omitted in this sketc' — the adr.usrion of the first Native Indian tc> the i -^ 's '"J'lpper. She was the wife of a European Settler, and had for a long time been most ic^ular in her attendance on the means of grace. Her knowledge of divine things had increased rapidly, and her conduct corresponded with her professed determination to forsake all and follow Christ. Her daughter followed her example, and became an ornament to religion and a bless- ing to her neighbourhood. Mr. Jones could not help shedding tears of joy at this additional proof of divine approbation afforded to his labours. The year 1826 was a most eventful and trying period to the Settlement and the Mission. The severity of the winter had been unprecedented. The buffalo in the hunting-grounds had pre- viously failed. The Settlers were compelled to support their cattle upon wheat and barley, there- by rendering it doubtful whether any would re- main for seed. On account of the lateness of the seasoKi it was feared that no wheat-crops could be expected at all, and if any thing occurred XVI 1 : ; I 1 1 to prevent the prosperity of barley and potatoes, a famine seemed inevitable. This distress was increased by the destructive inundation to which the Bishop refers, and which might well be regard- p'' by the inhabitants as an era not to be forgot- tcu. It prevailed from the beginning of May till the middle of June. Nearly every house in the Settlement was swept away, and the country laid under water as far as the eye could reach. The Missionaries, in common with the rest of the inhabitants, were obliged, for about a month, to leave their dwellings, and reside under tents pitched on a high spot of ground. A particularly interesting account of this distressing visitation is contained in the Missionary Register for 1826, pp. 633 — 637. In the midst of judgment, how- ever, God remembered mercy. The Churches, School-houses, and dweUings of the Missionaries, were but Uttle injured ; the fears entertained res- pecting the barley and potato-crops proved groundless ; and the happy influence which their distresses produced upon the minds of the people illustrated the declaration of Scripture, ** When the judgments of the Lord are in the earth, the inhabitants of the world will learn righteous- ness. >» During the next four years, the progress of xvu the Mission was satisfactory and encouraging ; but it was not marked by any occurrence of striking interest. Mr. Jones visited England for the benefit of his health, and returned to his labours accompanied by Mrs. Jones. The attend- ance at the two Churches continued to be good. The number of Communicants was greatly in- creased. In 1824, there were only six ; in 1828, there were 134, of whom seven or eight were Indians. A school was opened for the reception of the daughters of gentlemen in the Hudson's Bay Company's service. There were altogether four daily Schools, beside Sunday-schools. The number of Indian children maintained and edu- cated by the Society was about twenty ; which number might have been almost indefinitely in- creased, had the means of procuring subsistence for them been less precarious. One pleasing fact in illustration of this should be noticed. Two Indian boys, who had been brought by Governor Simpson in 1825 from beyond the Rocky Mountains, went home on a visit to their parents, after they had been under instruction for about four years. They soon returned, bringing with them five other boys, four of whom were the sons of four different Chiefs, the heads of large Tribes in that part of the country and c xvm t . . . V each speaking a different dialect from the others. While this circumstance clearly manifested the confidence placed by the Natives there in the good faith of the White people, as well as their desire for instruction, it could not fail to suggest the pleasing anticipation that when these youths should return to their own friends, after having been instructed in Christianity, they might be made an extensive blessing. And this anticipation was not groundless. For when a Missionary visit- ed those remote districts many years afterward, he found a band of Indians prepared to welcome his message, having learned to appreciate the blessings of the Gospel from one of these youths. Erection of a Third Church. On the return of Mr. Jones from England, another important step was taken in order to extend the benefits of pastoral superintendence on the banks of the Red River. A considerable population, consisting almost entirely of Half- breeds, had settled in the neighbourhood of a place called Grand Rapids, about fourteen miles from the Upper Church, and eight miles below what was then the Lower Church. This dis- "■.■ra3JTWfeK-J:.i5.vT^*w»«v;e/wH»<» XIX tance obviously precluded them from availing themselves of the ministrations provided in those Churches, and at the request of an individual who opened his house for the purpose, one or other of the Missionaries went down once a fort- night to hold a Cottage Lecture, which was usually attended by about thirty of the inhabi- tants. This service was so much valued by the people, and appeared to be productive of so many beneficial results, that it was arranged that Mr. Cockran should take up his iresidence at Grand Rapids. He was now able to hold a regular Ser- vice, first in his own house, and afterward in a Schoolroom. The number of attendants soon became so great that the need of a Church began to be urgently felt. The manner in which this object was accom- pUshed was very interesting. The people were all poor ; but they " ofiered willingly" what they could, both in money and materials, as well as in labour. They first began by collecting stones for the foundation. Then he who possessed an axe went into the woods to hew timber, which was hauled down to the intended site by him who possessed an ox, and thus by united efibrts, and without any extraneous assistance, they succeeded in erecting a House of God, the best c 2 XX i \ building of the kind that had yet been raised in Rupert's Land. On occasion of the opening of this Church, May 1, 1832, Mr. Cockran wrote — It was a day of thankfulness, as well as a spiritual feast to us who were present : our cup truly overflo"'ed with the remembrance of His goodness to us all the time we had been engaged in the work. Not one who had been employed in it was detained by sick- ness from the dedication : none had paid the debt of sin : all were permitted, by the kindness of God, to see the object of our prayers and industry devoted to His service. About this time, Mr. Cockran introduced the spinning of flax into a School of Industry which he had previously established. Such an occupation was perfectly new to the children, who had never witnessed anything of the kind before. Formation of the Indian Settlement. Some account must now be given of what the Bishop justly characterizes as a " gi2at and most happy, but, in the first instance, most arduous experiment" of endeavouring ** to establish the Natives in settled habitations, and in a compact civilized community, as tiUers of the soil." XXI Hitherto the labours of the Missionaries had been chiefly directed to the European Settlers, and their descendants of mixed blood. Some- thing had been effected by occasional intercourse with individual Natives ; but, with the exception of the Indian School, no systematic effort had been made in their behalf. It was the settled conviction of the Missionaries that nothing of a decided and permanent character could be effected for the religious instruction of the Indians, so long as they were compelled to wander about in search of a precarious subsistence, and thus were prevented from avaihng themselves, for a sufficient length of time, of the means of grace, and oppor- tunities of instruction. To those, however, who were acquainted with the Indian character, the very idea of inducmg them to give up their erratic habits, and heathen customs and prejudices, ap- peared altogether visionary. But, formidable as the difficulties were, Mr. Cockran resolved to encounter them ; and to allow no discouragements, which faith and patience could overcome, to deter him from prosecuting the undertaking. Accordingly, having obtained the permission of Governor Simpson to try the experiment of locating the Indians near Netley Creek, in the neighbourhood of the spot where Pigwys and his >miimifjf»fmft H H ft i HBi»! ' ' I ) '-'I It XXVI \ Change in the Locality of the Settlement— Establish- ment of a School and Week'day Lecture. The little progress thus made, however, was sufficient to encourage Mr. Cockran to proceed with his benevolent plans. As has been already stated, the place in which these plans were hither- to carried on, originally chosen from its immediate vicinity to the Saulteaux encampment, had many disadvantages. Several families of other Tribes, chiefly Muscaigoes, or Swampy Crees,* had also manifested a disposition to settle, and it was un- desirable, at present, that they should be brought too near the Saulteaux. Accordingly, in the fol- * For some time many familiea af this Tribe had been drifting to the Red- River Settlement, on account of their having relatives among the Half-breeds who resided there. Among these were some very old men, one of whom told Mr. Jones that he had left his own country, not with a view of bettering his outward condition, but because he had heard that One from above had come to this world to save the souls of men, and he wished to learn something about Him. In 1832, at the Upper Church, Mr. Jones preached on Lord's-day evenings, through an interpreter, to a Congregation of from seventy to eighty of these peo- ple, whose regular attendance, and desire to learn, gave him much encouragement. xxvu lowing year, 1833, another very eligible location, three miles higher up the River, and about twelve miles from Grand Rapids, was selected, on which to form a more permanent Settlement. To these Indians, as well as to the Saulteaux, Mr. Cockran sent a plough and a pair of oxen, some other agricultural implements, and a supply of seed-corn and potatoes. All wrought well ; the old Chief Pigwys, especially, setting a good example to his people by his diligence and perse- verance. In the autumn, nine small houses were built at the new Settlement. Each house was twenty- four feet by sixteen, with a cellar for potatoes. Mr. Cockran remarked — I do not pretend to say that any of these cottages were either neat or elegant. The seams of the log- walls were plastered with mud ; the chimneys were of the same material ; the roofs were thatched with reeds and covered with earth ; the boards of the floors, and doors, and beds, were planed with the saw ; and the windows were formed of parchment made of the skins of fishes. Each Indian who built a house was supplied with clothing, tools, and a more experienced man to assist and direct him. During this period, Mr. Cockran spent several days together at the ff* ■^m' . ri^ii '( II, I I III w xxvui Settlement, and frequently laboured with his own hands. A Schoolroom, forty feet by twenty, with a residence for the Master at one end, and a loft above to serve as a granary, was also completed. Lest the children should be dispersed by the necessity of searching for food during the winter, it was arranged that they should be provided with one good meal each day. With this view, twenty acres of land at the Rapids were sown with wheat, and a fishing party was sent to Lake Winnipeg to endeavour to obtain a stock of fish for winter consumption. It was also found abso- lutely necessary to supply the children with some articles of clothing. When all these arrangements were made, the School was opened on the 25th of November, with thirty-two children. Mr. Joseph Cook, whose father was an Englishman, and whose mother was a Cree-Indian, was appointed Schoolmaster. On account of the utter absence of parental con- trol among the Indians, it was found exceedingly difficult, at first, to maintain anything like order and discipline ; but, by degrees, a marked im- provement was observable in this respect. Shortly afterward, a week-day Lecture was established by Mr. Cockran, in the Schoolroom, with his own XXIX for the benefit of the adults. The attendance at first was small ; but it soon increased, and the Lecture became an object of much interest. The following spring brought with it the usual agricultural opsrations, and it was encou- raging to see the progress which had been made. On the 7th of May 1834, Mr. Cockran ob- served — The Indians continue to enlarge their farms. The Bay in which we have commenced is all covered with persons actively employed — some digging up roots, others gathering them ; some sowing wheat, and others planting potatoes. How soon the industrious hand of man can change the gloomy desert into a garden ! The only habitation which this Bay could boast of last spring was a solitary tent of Indians pitched here for the sake of taking fish. Now we can stand upon the opposite shore, and see the smoke of nine chimneys towering to the sky, upward of thirty children beguiling away the cheerful hours of the morning in innocent mirth before they assemble to con their lessons. We can hear the sound of the axe and the saw, the cock crowing, the hogs grunting, and the ploughman driving his oxen. The Saulteaux Indians continue i to manifest considerable opposition on the subject of having their children educated. Mr. Cockran, however, at last succeeded in obtaining from them a reluc- MK^ '' ll XXX taint promise of nine children. A new School- room was accordingly built, toward the close of this year, near the Saulteaux encampment, for their especial use ; but when it was finished, the children originally promised had departed with their parents to their wintering grounds. The School, however, was shortly afterward opened with five boys. First Baptisms at the Settlement — Hopeful Death of an Adult Indian. Mr. Cockran was this year permitted to see fruit far more important than civilization, result- ing from his labours. The self-denying rides along the bad roads from Grand Rapids to the Indian Settlement, in all kinds of weather, in order to attend the weekly Meeting which he had established, were more than compensated by see- ing some of the adults beginning to manifest an anxiety respecting their everlasting welfare. On the 11th of September he baptized ten adults, six children attending the School, and four infants. Several of the adults had applied for the ordinance ten months previously, and they had all given sufficient evidence of their sincerity to justify their reception within the pale of the XXXI eful Death of visible Church. There was now a small company of those who were " within " to be guided and edified, and reminded of their Christian obligations to " shine as lights in the world, amidst a crooked and perverse generation." In little more than two months afterward, another Indian, who had for eighteen months been an orderly and improving character, and a regular attendant at the weekly meetings, became danger- ously ill. He had for some time felt strongly inchned openly to avow his faith in Christ ; but the furious opposition of his wife and mother had hitherto prevailed to hinder him from publicly renouncing the customs of his forefathers. In the prospect of eternity, however, he fully resolved to encounter every opposition, and to profess the faith of Christ crucified ; and while the drum of the conjurer, employed by his relatives, was sounding, he sent for Mr. Cockran, who, amidst a volley of abuse from the mother and wife, which made the dying man tremble, baptized him, and two of his children who belonged to the School. He died within three days afterward; and was thus the first, in this part of the wilderness, who died in the profession of the true faith. It is a pleasing fact, that, not many weeks afterward, his widow entirely renounced her opposition, and became a Christian. xxxu Establishment of a Lord's-day Evening Service. In the beginning of 1835, by an arrangement with Mr. Jones respecting the duties of the Middle Church, Mr. Cockran was enabled to commence a service in the Indian Schoolroom on Lord's-day evenings. By this means a better opportunity was afforded for calling the attention of the infant Christian community to the duties and privileges of the Lord's-day. The Congre- gation continued to increase, and an extract from Mr. Cockran' s Journal will show the encourage- ment which he derived, both here and at the Rapids, from this source — : I I > May 31, 1835 — I preached, in the morning, at the Rapids, to a large and attentive audience, i; When I say large, I mean for this part of the world ; for, as we never see a concourse of people except at Church, we are liable to more excitement on this head than those who frequently cast their eyes over immense multitudes. In England, I have often expressed with astonishment, What! so many in the market, and so few in Church! Here it is the reverse. On week- days, you may travel for miles, and not see a human face ; but on the Lord's-day, when you draw near the Church at the hour of prayer, the track is covered with old and young and middle-aged, pressing for- ward to the House of God to pay the weekly tribute XXXlll of praise to the Author of their heing. When you enter Church, and glance at full 300 individuals waiting to join in singing the praises of God, you say with astonishment, " This is the Lord's doing ; it is marvellous in our eyes." In the afternoon, I visited the Indian Settlement, and preached there. The School-room was perfectly full, and the weather ex- cessively hot. Their heads were well anointed with sturgeon oil, which rendered the effluvia of the place almost intolerable. I should be exceedingly happy if I could teach them to be more cleanly in their persons and in their houses ; but, however severe I may be upon them respecting their houses, their farms, and dirty habits, at their own homes, still, when at Church, I take them as they are, and welcome them. Further Evidence of Vital Religion. That something more than an external appear- ance of devotion was to be found among some of the poor Indians who thus waited upon the Lord in His House, is evident from an interesting account, contained in the Church Missionary Record for December 1835, of the death of an Esquimaux lad, named Colon Leslie, and of the expressive and original terms in which an older Indian described the difficulties which he met with in his religious course, plainly showing that he D *>!<»>■ XXXIV was no stranger to spiritual religion as a matter of experience. 1 1 1 ':■ Erection of a Flour-mill. In temporal things, also, another advance was made this year. Mr. Cockran mentioned the pleasure which it gave him to see " an Indian ploughing his ground, with his own plough and ox ; and his daughter driving it." The quantity of com raised in the Indian Settlement was now so considerable, that the want of a mill to grind it began to be very greatly felt ; and after encoun- tering many difficulties, the indefatigable perse- verance of Mr. Cockran succeeded in accomplish- ing this object. A new impulse seemed now to be given to the Indian character. Mr. Cockran, describing a visit which he made to the Indian Settlement on one occasion, remarked — It seems quite in a bustle to-day. Some were carrying the wheat to the mill upon their backs ; others were hauling it, with oxen, upon sledges. The mill was gliding steadily round, driven by a north- wind. I found 12 persons waiting for their flour. The grist-mill is the most conspicuous mark of civilization that we have planted in this rude waste, and its bene- ficial effect is strikingly felt by the savage. He seems I as a matter XXXV all at once stimulated to develope a new character. On the blowing of the wind he is out with his wheat to winnow ; gets it into his bag, runs to the mill, and stands in eager expectation of his turn. When once it is in the hopper, and the stones at work, he handles it as it falls into the box, to see if it be well ground. I thought it scarcely possible so tc rouse the Indian's drowsy powers. Rebuilding of the Upper Church — Establishment of Schools. While this remarkable transition from barbar- ism to civilization was taking place in the Indian Settlement, Mr. Jones was successfully prosecut- ing his ministerial labours among the more mixed population of the upper part of the Colony. The Congregations at the Upper and Middle Churches consisted of about 800 or 900, including children, and the number of Communicants amounted to about 130. The first Church, though reflecting great credit on the zeal and exertions of Mr. West, and of all who were concerned in its erec- tion, being built of logs, was fast going to decay, and it was found necessary to erect a more sub- stantial edifice of stone. This object was accom- plished by a liberal subscription on the part of the Settlers, aided by a munificent grant from the D 2 'f^^ i*mm ZXXVl / ! Hudson' s-Bf.y Company, and a smaller grant from the Church Missionary Society. The building was opened for Divine Service on the 26th of November 1834. It is capable of accommodating comfortably 700 people, and 1000 might find room without being over-crowded. Five Day-schools, containing about 400 chil- dren, had been established ; beside two Semina- ries for children of persons engaged in the ser- vice of the Hudson*s-Bay Company, which were under the care and superintendence of Mr. and Mrs. Jones, assisted by a Tutor and Governess from England. At the different Sunday-schools, also, nearly 300 received religious instruction. Moreover, the orderly demeanour, moral conduct, and religious habits, of all classes, were, for the most part, satisfactory and cheering. Trials of the Mission — Death of Mrs, Jones. The year 1836 was a season of heavy trial to the whole Mission. A severe frost, which oc- curred in the middle of August, completely de- stroyed the wheat crops and all garden seeds. The buffalo hunters returned x'rom the plains with empty carriages. The Company's ship, after hav- ing landed her passengers at York Fort, was xxxvu driven out of Hudson's Bay by a severe storm, and compelled to return to ICngland without hav- ing been able to land her cargo or to receive any despatches ; and thus the Mission was obliged to remain another year without communications from home, and supplies of various kinds which were urgently needed. But a loss, still more deeply felt, occurred by the sudden removal of Mrs. Jones in the midst of her usefulness ; leaving Mr. Jones a bereaved widower, and five children mo- therless. In the midst of these complicated difficulties jand sorrows, however, there were some impor- tant and soothing alleviations. The barley har- vest was good, and the potatoes not altogether unproductive. The quantity of cattle which the people possessed, and the large stock of old grain which was in the hands of several, enabled them to pass the winter without much inconvenience. The sympathy and sensibility called forth by the death of Mrs. Jones, was exceedingly touching. When Mr. Cockran, immediately on receiving the melancholy intelligence, set out to visit his afflict- ed brother, every one he met was equally discon- solate — " a shake by the hand, a few faltering words, a deep sigh, and a flood of tears, were all that passed." Her loss was regarded by the •fr wm I ■ \ y XXXVIU whole Protestant population as the heaviest of that trying season. Their language was, " Our crops have been smitten by the frost ; our supplies are cut off by the non-arrival of the ships : seed-time and harvest will come again : a new summer may bring another ship ; but Mrs. Jones will never re- turn ! " Among the Roman Catholic population, also, there was a feeling of sympathy, and even the untutored savage showed, by his silent grief, that he had lost a friend. ' i . 1 ,1 I Illustrations of the Effect of the Gospel. r Many interesting instances might be adduced to illustrate the power of religion in influencing the minds, and improving the characters, of vari- ous classes of the population ; but two accounts must now suffice. The first is a narrative, related by Mr. Jones, of the death of an Indian boy who had been educated at the Indian School, and bap- tized by the name of Jack Spense. Mr. Jones observed in hi? Journal, under the date June 26, 1836— 1 found him dying of consumption, and in a state of the most awful poverty and destitution, in a small birch-rind covered hut, with nothing but a few fern- leaves under him, and an old blanket over himi li . ' XXXIX which was in a condition not *• e described. After recovering from my surprise, I said, " My poor boy, I am very sorry to find you in this state : had you let me know, you should not have been lying here." He replied, " It is very little I want now, and these poor people get it me ; but I should like something softer to lie upon, as my bones are very sore." I then asked him concerning the state of his mind; when he replied, that he was very happy ; that Jesus Christ, the Lord of Glory, had died to save him, and that he had the most perfect confidence in Him. Observing a small Bible under the corner of his blanket, I said, " Jack, you have a friend there : I am glad to see that : I hope you find something good there." Weak as he was, he raised himself on his elbow, heir*, it in his attenuated hand, while a smile played on his countenance, and slowly spoke, in precisely the fol- lowing words — " This, Sir, is my dear friend. You gave it me, when we all went down to live at Mr. Cockran's. For a long time I read it much, and often thought of what it told. Last year, I went to see my sister at Lake Winnipeg" — about 200 miles off— " where I remained about two months. When I was half-way back through the Lake, I remembered that I had left my Bible behind me. I directly turned round, and was nine da>sby myself, tossing to and fro, before I could reach the house ; but I found my friend, and determined that I would not part with it again ; and ever since it has been near my breast, and I thought I should have buried it with me ; but I have thought since, I had better give it to you xl [•c ;i I U when I am gone, and it may do some one else good." lie was often interrupted by a sepulchral cough, and sank down exhausted. I read and prayed, the hut hardly affording me room to be upright even when kneeling. The evening sun was pouring its rays through the holes in the bark-covered hut: and I could not but mentally exclaim, on coming away, What a scene for the pen of a Legh Richmond ! The other instance of the influence of divine grace, although it occurred four years later, may be here introduced. It will be seen in the fol- lowing eloquent and pathetic advice given by an Indian father to his son, who was setting out on a long and hazardous journey. Mr. Cockran wrote, in his Journal — July 26, 1840 — I returned home, in company with a Native whose son had gone on a long journey, near to the Rocky Mountains. I was delighted to find that he had sent his son off with the most pressing injunction that he would pray to God at least twice every day, and read the Bible as often as he might have an opportunity. He said, '' My son, as long as you have been in my house you have seen me pray : let this put you in mind that there is a Being, whom we cannot see, who gives us all things. You go to Church : there you hear that this Great Being, whom wicked men hate, and are afraid of, is Love. When you go through the plains, you will not see me praying ; you will not hear that God is Love. There h: xli you will meet with men whose hearts are cruel ; who will stand up against you ; who have no pity : they would drive an arrow through your heart ; they would take your scalp from your head, and drink your blood. My son, when night comes on, before you close your eyes, ask Him who draws the darkness round you to look and pity you, and spread His hand over you; for you are alone, far from home, and have no other friend but Him. When morning comes, and your eyes first see the light, thank the Best of all Beings for His protection ; and ask Him to go with you on your journey, to turn men who have bad hearts on one side, that they may not meet you. Should you be in danger, never forget that **the blood of Jesus Christ His oon cleanseth us from all sin." Trust in it : God has accepted of it as the sacrifice for your soul ; and through this, you and I may meet in heaven." The father said to me : " My heart was light and happy when I saw my son take his Bible and some Tracts ; and when he squeezed my hand, with the tears in his eyes, and said, ' I will remember Him who is over us all, till I meet you again.' " Progress of the Indian Settlement. The number of Indians who embraced Chris- tianity at the Indian Settlement was constantly increasing. On the 24th of December 1836, five Native women were baptized, one of whom had come a distance of 90 n Ues to seek admission in- i^' i ' /: xlii to the Church ; and this at a season when the thermometer was 25° below zero. About this time there were 47 Christian families, comprising about 260 individuals. The School-room having become much too small to accommodate the Con- gregation, Mr. Cockran found it necessary to build a Church. In the prosecution of this object he was liberally supported by the more affluent in- habitants of the upper part of the Colony, and the Congregation at the Rapids were especially forward in rendering their aid. Altogether, about 95/. 15s. was contributed, in labour, produce, or cash. In this Church many faults, which had been committed from inexperience in building the other Churches, were avoided. Its size is about 54 feet by 24, and it will accommodate about 300 persons. The day on which it was opened, Janu- ary 4, 1837, was exceedingly cold and tempestu- ous ; but the Church was quite full, all the Offi- cers of the Hudson' s-Bay Company, as well as several of the Settlers, being present.* • A description of the locality of the Indian Settle- ment, and of the interesting appearance of the Church, is contained in the 39th Report, pp. 123, 124. Vide Frontispiece. r xliii Return of Mr. Jones to England — Appeal for more Missionaries , and Arrival out of the Rev. J. Smithurst. In 1 838, Mr. Jones was compelled by domestic circumstances, as well as by the state of his health, to visit England. He intended to return to his labours ; but it pleased God to order otherwise. He gradually became weaker, and in October 1844 he was taken away from this world of sin and suffering. When Mr. Jones left the Red River, he was the bearer of several letters and messages to the Committee, urging, with affectionate earnestness, the importance of sending out additional Missio- naries to them. After service at the Indian Church, on the 9th of August, the old Chief Pigwys came to Mr. Jones, and said, " I send by you a letter to tihe Missionary men in England : tell them not to forget me : I want the Word of Life to be always spoken in my land." Another Indian, who appeared to take the lead among the Muscaigoes, sent a similar message : addinjLj;, with much vehemence of gesture, " Tell them to make haste : time is short, and Death is snatching away our friends and relations very fast : tell them to make haste." Ilj xliv i In allusion to the efforts made by the Church of Rome, the Indians, in their general letter, made the following affecting appeal — Mr. Jones is now going to leave us. Mr. Cockran is talking of leaving us. Must we turn to our idols and gods again? or must we turn to the French Praying-masters for protection and assistance, where a good few of our children and relatives are gone to? We see not less than three French Praying- masters have arrived in the River, and not one for us. What is this, our friends ? The Word of God says, that one soul is worth more than all the world. Surely, then, our friends, 300 souls are worthy of one Praying-mas- ter." This appeal, taken in connexion with the solitary condition of Mr. Cockran, who had to divide his labours among the Congregations of four Churches, was irresistible ; and accordingly, the Rev. J. Smithurst was appointed to this Mission. He arrived at the Red River in September 1839, and with a pvaiseworthy eagerness to be among the people committed to his charge, took up his resi- dence at the Indian Settlement even before the house which was being prepared for his reception was completed. xlv Present Condition of the Indian Settlement. The advantage of having a resident Minister, as might be expected, has been very great. Each succeeding year has exhibited a marked improve- ment, both in the temporal and spiritual * con- dition of the Christian Indians : their numbers are constantly increasing by the addition of new famiUes, desirous of civiUzation, and inquiring after Christianity ; and the testimony of several com- petent witnesses, acquainted with the Indian character, and experienced in the country, has been of the same satisfactory tenour as that which the Bishop has borne in his valuable letters. In the winter of 1844 — 5 a new farmhouse was finished, and the Mission Establishment, thus completed, serves as a model to the Indians. A year later a new windmill was erected, the one built by Mr. Cockran having become unservicea- • One interesting fact, mentioned by Mr. Smithurst in 1840, must not be omitted— When the Christian Indians are out on a hunting excur- sion, they usually spend the Lord's-day together, and abstain entirely from the chase. One of them is in the habit of read- ing the C\ urch-service ; and after singing, they all talk over what they can remember of the Word of God taught them either in Church or in School. ««MI 1 I xlvi ble. The erection of this mill induced the Indians to make considerable efforts toward enlarging their farms. During the last year or two it has pleased God greatly to try the faith and patience both of the Missionary and his people. In August and Sep- tember 1846 dysentery prevailed to an alarming extent, and proved fatal in a great many cases. Nearly twenty of the Sunday- scholars died. The crops of the same year were almost a total failure. Whole families were obliged to leave the Settle- ment for weeks together, to catch fish in Lake Winnipeg. Great efforts were made by them, however, to be at the Settlement on the Lord's- day, and to keep their children at School. Mr. Smithurst writes — I have often seen the poor children, on leaving School, go to the river, and sit there angling till sun- set in order to catch a few small fish called gold- eyes, which have scarcely an ounce of which is eat- able upon them. In the year 1847 — 48 the Indians continued to suffer greatly from scarcity, and so many were obliged to leave the Settlement, for a time, as considerably to interfere with the regular atten- dance both at Church and School. The prospects i xlvii of the harvest, however, were in August last pro- mising, so that we trust the Settlement will re- sume its usual aspect. Mr. Smithurst states, in his Report for the year ending August 1, 1848, that the Enghsh Morning Service is attended, when all the Indians are at home, by about 350 ; and the Indian After- noon Service by from 80 to 130. There is also a Service on Wednesday Evening in the School- room, which under favourable circumstances is well attended. The number of Communicants is 86. In February Mr, Cook, the Schoolmaster, died, hi . 3 being occupied by his son. The number ot Scholars on the books is 68, 35 boys and 33 girls. The Sunday-school consists of 36 Adults in addition to the Day-scholars. On the whole, Mr. Smithurst says, "there are many marks of improvement, in a religious, moral, and civil point of view. If there be much to discou- rage, and to try both faith and patience, there is much over which we ought to rejoice.' >» Arrival of the Rev. A. Cowley and Mr. J. Roberts — Return of Mr. Roberts. In 1841, the band of Missionary labourers was strengthened by the addition to their number of xlviii the Rev. A. Cowley, and Mr. J. Roberts. Mr. Roberts returned to this country after two years* ^ ^our as a Catechist. Mr. Cowley was at first engaged in assisting Mr. Cockran in the Upper Settlement, and afterward in superintending the formation of a new Station at Manitoba Lake, of which an account is given below. U i 'i Arrangements for the Upper, Middle, and Lower Churches — Building of c New Church at the Rapids — Arrival of the Rev. R. James. By the ordination of Mr. M*Allum, during the Bishop's visit, it was hoped that the duties of the Upper Church were provided for. Very shortly, however, his health failed, and the Church "was necessarily closed for three weeks. He was sub- sequently able to take the duty occasionally ; and on the other Sundays, Mr. Cockran officiated at both the Upper and Middle Churches, and Mr. Smithurst at the Indian Settlement and the Lower Church. Under this arrangement these two Mis- sionaries had each to ride twenty-six miles during the day ; but it was the only course open to them, except closing the Upper Church. The insufficient accommodation afforded in the xlix Lower Church is noticed in the Bishop's Letters, and had heen strongly felt also bv the Missionaries. The love of the people for the ordinances of God's house had not abated since their erection of the first Church,* as will be seen by the following account taken from Mr. Cockran's Journal — Dec. 31, 1844^1 held a Meeting for the purpose of ascertaining what means we could raise for building a stone Church. Almost all the males attended. I addressed them on the zeal and liberality of the Chil- dren of Israel, when it was proposed to build the Tabernacle. If Moses found a willing people, the present assembly were equally so. Silyer and gold they had none ; but stones, lime, shingles, boards, timber, and labour, were cheerfully contributed, and to such an amount as perfectly astonished me. Never, since the day of Pentecost, was self so completely conquered. The shingle-makers proposed to give 10,000 shirf.-les each, and the lime-burners 400 bush- els of lime each. The mason proposed to dress the stones for one corner, and lay them, gratis. Boards and timber were promised in the same liberal man- ner. One black curly-head, descended from the line of Ham by his father's side, stood up in his leather coat, and said, " I shall give lOZ." The eyes of all were turned toward him, and a smile played upon every countenance. I said, " I believe our brethren think you are too poor to raist such a sum." He said, raising his arm, " Here is my body : it is at your ser- * Vide pp. xviii. — xx. £ ' f< 1 vice. It is true, I can neither square a stone nor lay one ; but there will be the fioor and the roof: turn me to them, and then you will see, if God give me life a'^d ialth, that the value of the sum shall be raised." In .^tc.ials and labour above 700/. were promised. The foundation of a stone Church was at once commenced, and the corner-stone was laid by Mr. Smithurst on the 4th of July 1845. Its dimen- sions are 81^ feet by 40 within the walls, and there 'rill be a gallery at the west end. The tower is 20 feet square, and its base admits of a commodious porch. At the beginning of August last, the roof was finished, and all the stone-work ; the spire and the interior remaining incomplete. It was to be opened in a few months. For some years the health of Mr. Cockran had been seriously failing, and he was at length com- pelled to retire from the post which he had so long and so usefully held. He preached his farewell sermon at the Lower (or Grand Rapids) Church on the 14th of June 1846, on which occa- sion ]Mr. Cowley, being on a visit to the Settle- ment, thus writes — Never do I expect to forget the last look which some of the people gave their pastor as they retired from the Church, in which, from its very first rearing, li they had heard, with so nmch pleasure and profit, the voice of him whom now, proceeding to their homes at a distance, they looked upon to see no more for ever. Their hearts were too full for words : the only utterance their feelings could ohtain was in a flood of tears, as each walked up, silently embraced his hand, and turned away. On che next day Mr. Cockran and his family left the Settlement for Canada. To provide for the vacancy thus occasioned, the Rev. R. James was sent out in summer of 1846. He and Mrs. James arrived at the Settle- ment in the beginning of October, and shortl took up their residence at the Grand Rapids. Oi the new Church Mr. James wrote on his arrival — It is a noble building — by far the best in Prince Rupert's Land. Many poor men here, in their godly enthusiasm, have given lonations of 10/., and, to pay it, have forestaked two years' wages. And in a Report to August 1 847 he states — I have never yet seen, in the present Church, a vacant seat on the Lord's-day. Be the weather what it may, rain or snow, storm or sunshine, frozen mer- cury or fever heat, the Church is more than full. Many have to walk five or six miles each way, and that often, in winter, through two or three feet of £ 2 snow. Several families, living between the Rapids and Middle Churches, attend both, and in doing so perform r, journey of sixteen milen. His last Report, to August 1848, exhibits a steady progress in the various branches of his charge. • Contrary to expectation, Mr. Cockran*8 health was so much improved by a year's residence in Canada, that he considered it to be his duty to return to the scene of his former labours. He arrived at the Settlement on the 31st of July 1847, and undertook the duties of the Upper Church, &c., as Chaplain to the Hud8on*s-Bay Company. Although Mr. Cockran has been thus engaged in ministering to the Settlers rather than in direct Missionary work, the Mission will derive great benefit from his presence and counsel, his thorough acqunintance with the Indian character, and the weight of his influence throughout the Settlement. Formation of the Cumberland Station — Appoint- ment to it of the Rev. J. Hunter, and his Arrival. In 1839, the Committee had the satisfaction to find that the Hudson's-Bay Company were liii disposed to countenance and promote the forma- tion of a Missionary Station at Cumberland House, one of their Posts, about 500 miles from the Bed River. The financial circumstances of the Society prevented the Committee from avail- ing themselves of this opening to the extent which they desired. In order, however, that some beginning might be made, Mr. Henry Budd, who had been for some time in connexion with the Society as a Schoolmaster, was sent to that neighbourhood in June 1840. When he had been labouring for about a year, he was enabled to send home an encouraging account of the success which had attended his exertions. After the lapse of another year, the Rev. J. Smithurst was anxious to visit the infant Station, with a view to strengthen Mr. Budd's hands, and to baptize such as might be prepared for that ordi- nance. This desire was increased by his receiving a communication, through Mr. Budd, from the Indians of that district, earnestly requesting him to visit them. As the journey occupied twenty- six days, Mr. Smithurst^s joy may be well imagined when the guide made the pleasing announcement, ''Mr. Budd's place is just behiL.' that point of wood." A few minutes brought him I * ' within sight of the infant Mission Establishment, which he thus described — The School-house in the centre, Mr. Budd's house on the South side, and the children's house on the North, appeared respectable buildings; and struck me as reflecting very great credit upon Mr. Budd's industry. A gentle slo])e from the houses toward the river appeared to have been cleared, but not fenced ; and in the rear, a neat square field was fenced in, and under cultivation. Our boat was soon observed, and the School-child- ren flocked down to the beach to welcome our arrival. Their appearance was highly satisfactory, consider- ing the short time which had intervened since they were taken from their native woods. Notwithstanding the unfavourable circumstances under which we ar- rived, amid a deluge of rain, the first impression upon my mind was so pleasing, that I quite forgot the tediousness of twenty-six days' travelling through a solitary wilderness. The School was found to contain thirty-one Indian children, all neat and clean. On examina- tion, it appeared that they had made very good progress in learning. There were but few adult Indians at the Station when Mr. Smithurst arri- ved, b3r?.u2e they were necessarily engaged in procuring subsistence, at b fishing-place about a day's journey oflT ; but he was informed that they would not fail to reach the Station on Saturday, according to their regular custom. Accordingly, on that day he wrote — In the afternoon, a whole fleet of canoes made their appearance, and formed a most pleasing scene. The party, consisting of from sixty to seventy persons, pitched their tents alongside the Mission Establish- ment, in order to attend the services of the Lord's- day. This was indeed one of the most cheering sights I ever witnessed ; and called forth feelings of the deepest gratitude to God, that He should have in- clined the hearts of so many to seek after the way of salvation. Up to a late hour on Saturday evening, as well as on the following morning, Mr. Smithurst was engaged in a close examination of the Candidates for Baptism individually. He reported, that *' the result of the examinations was highly satisfactory." June 26, 1842, is a day much to be remember- ed in the annals of this Mission. In the after- noon, Mr. Smithurst had the privilege of ad- mitting into the Church of Christ, by Baptism, eighty-five Indians; of whom thirty-eight were adults, and the remaining forty- seven their children. In the summer of 1843, Mr. Budd reported hi that the eighty-five baptized Indians continued Btedfaflt in the faith, and manifested an increasing desire after divine things ; and that there were fifty-eight Candidates for Baptism awaiting the arrival of a Clergyman. The urgent need of ^ an ordained Missionary for this interesting Station was met by the appointment of the Rev. J. Hunter, who with Mrs. Hunter arrived at York Fort in August 1844, and at their Station on the 26th of September. Mr. Hunter writes — On landing from the boat, a great number of In- dians, who had for some time been waiting my arri' val, came to bid us welcome ; and we could imme- diately perceive, from their manner and address, that we were not surrounded by Heathen, but by Christian Brethren. Mr. Hunter immediately addressed himself to the examination of the Candidates for Baptism, and did not discover any to whom he could not conscientiously administer that sacrament. On the first Lord*s-day after his arrival he baptized 31 adults and 35 children. He states— I had previously arranged that they should come up for Baptism by households, and a most interesting and delightful scene it was to see the father and mo- ther, with their children, approach the font to receive this sacred ordinance. All was breathless attention. Ivii many a tear wan thed, and both old and young ap- peared to be affected by the solemn Service. Thus at this Station there were now 150 Chris- tian Converts, who, four years previously, had been all Heathen, and had never heard the " glad tidings" of the Gospel. When it is considered that Mr. Budd was one of the first Indian boys consigned to Mr. West's care in ] 820, it will be seen that this account furnishes a most striking illustration of the value of Native Agency. Progress of the Cumberland Station. Mr. Hunter entered upon his work with vigour, amid manifest tokens of the blessing of the Lord. The whole number baptized by him in the first year of his residence amounted to 59 adults and 68 children ; in the next year 62 persons, in the next, 32 adults and 53 children, and in the year ending August 1 848, 22 adults and 43 children were added to the number. The tot^'i =iumber baptized in connexion with the Station, by Mr. Smithurst and Mr. Hunter, has amounted to 424. The Chief of the place was baptized on Easter Sunday 1847. In his last Report Mr. Hunter states that many proofs existed to justify the conclusion I), I') Iviii that the work of grace commenced among the Indians was of a permanent character. *' In spiritual matters," he says, " we have had abmi- dant cause to rejoice, and ample encouragement to prosecute with greater earnestness than ever our ' work of faith and labour of love' both among our own people and the surrounding heathen.*' The Indians are very devout and attentive during the Services, and very anxious that their children should be baptized. The sacrament of the Lord's Supper was first administered in October 1844, the number of Indian Communicants being 12. On Easter Sun- day 1848 the following entry occurs in Mr. Hun- ter's Journal — At the Services to-day the Schoolroom was com- pletely filled with Christian Indians, about 150 being present. During the past week the Indians have been coming in from all quarters to attend the Services of this season, and to be present at the Communion. After the Morning Service, it was my privilege to administer the Lord's Supper to 51 Communicants, being the largest number that have ever attended at this Station. I have every reason to believe that the majority of these Communicants are sincere and de- vout Christians, living consistently with the blessed Gospel of Christ, and endeavouring to adorn their profession by a pious walk and conversation. ■ ' I lix Several Indians, who have died since Mr. Hunter's residence at the Station, have given good evidence that they died " in the Lord.* *i There are a Day and Sunday-school at the Sta- tion, conducted by Mr. Budd under Mr. Hunter's superintendence. In the Day-school the number of children on the books is 85, of whom 25 read in the Old or New Testaments. In the Sunday- school there are 12 adults and 2 children in addition to the Day-scholars. The attendance at both Schools is very good during the summer, when the parents are about the Mission EstabUsh- ment ; but dming the winter, from the want of provisions and other causes, it is more irregular. During 1845 — 6 a commodious dwelling-house was erected, and the farm greatly enlarged. In the spring of 1848 ten bushels and a half of wheat, and six bushels of barley, were sown, and about 16 bushels of potatoes planted. At the begin- ning of August Mr. Hunter reports that the crops were ** looking remarkably well, and promising an abundant harvest." For some time the want of a Church had been greatly felt, and on the 11 tL of September 1847 Mr. Hunter writes in his Journal — '« I called a meeting of the Indians, and invited them to subscribe toward the erection of a Church. They responded to my invitation, not in money, it is true, but in work. The Chief gave a horse, and the sub> scriptions amounted altogether to 28/. Before the close of the summer the frame of the Church had been put up, and during the win- ter the beams, &c., were prepared, and hauled to the banks of the river about 30 miles above the Station. At the beginning of August last, by the assistance of the Indians, the wood had been rafted down, and was lying close to the frame of the Church. Mr. Hunter hoped to complete the " logging " of the building before the winter set in. We must not omit to record what has been done by the Indians themselves toward leading a settled and civilized life. Their efforts in this respect are peculiarly interesting, as it is well known how deeply rooted is their love for a wan- dering and, as they deem it, an independent life. What their condition in such circumstances really is, may be seen forcibly described at p. 31 of the Bishop's Journal. In his Report for the year ending August 1846 Mr. Hunter wrote — Ixi Several of the Christian Indians have commenced new farms, and those who had farms have enlarged them ; so that an entire island, of tolerable size, is under cultivation with potatoes. About ten have commenced preparing wood for houses ; and one house, which will make the fifth Indian house, is now being erected. Several of the Indians have also wheat, barley, turnips, peas, &c., growing on their farms. And again, a year later — The frames of four houses have been put up by the Indians, and are now being logged. Several Indians are away, cutting wuod for bouses, which they intend to raft down the river. On their farms are growing excellent crops of wheat, barley, potatoes, and tur- nips ; and some of them have horses, cattle, and pigs. They are now dressed in European clothes, and are abandoning their native indolence, and adopting more active and industrious habits. Many of them are excellent sawyers and squarers, and are able very materially to assist the carpenter in the erection of our new buildings. As in spiritual, so in temporal things, a great change is taking place among these Indians : this strikes me the more forcibly when I visit Heathen Indians, who have not had the like privileges. ; 1846 We cannot refrain from giving one instance of the " great change " referred to above. Mr. Hunter records, in his Journal — ^\ Ixii Jan, 5, 1847—1 went, vrith Mrs. Hunter, to visit Charles Cook, the Rocky-Lake Chief, at his farm, about six miles from hence. The old man is now re- siding in a house which he has recently erected, in which we foun'J a caeerful fire blazing, and his fa- mily seated around the hearth. They appeared to be both surprised and delighted with our visit, and the old man seated us near the fii'e. He has put up the house very well, and has a nice cellar in which he keeps his potatoes secure from the frost. Adjoining is another house, in which he keeps a pig that I gave him, and I have promised to supply him with a calf shortly : his sons lately purchased a horse for him. He has a large family, and was one of the first here Wiio embraced Christianity. Before leaving we sang a hymn together, and engaged in prayer to our com- mon Father. Suspended on the trees outside the house were the skins of foxes — one a silver fox — and martens, the produce of the winter's hunt. Death of Mrs. Hunter. In the midst of the prosperity thus attendant on the Mission, it pleased God to call Mrs. Hun- ter to Himself. The intense cold appears to have been too much for her constitution, and induced, or at least developed, consumption. She died on the 20th of November 1 847 . Her husband writes — She was much beloved by the Indians for her Ixiii to visit I farm, low re- lied, in his fa- id to be ind the up the tiich he [joining I I gave h a calf or him. •St here ve sang ur com- ide the >x — and endant . Hun- o have iduced, died on rites — for her affability and kindness. She embraced every oppor- tunity of speaking to them for their temporal and spiritual good, and they all appear to feel that they have lost a kind friend : they all gathered around her grave, and wept for her as for their sister. Formation and Progress of a branch Station at LaC'la-Ronge* On several occasions Mr. Hunter had observed that a desire for instruction prevailed among the Rapid-River Indians. One of the earliest notices of this fact occurs in his Journal of May 1845, when an Indian and his family presented them- selves for Christian instruction, having travelled about 400 miles to obtain it. This man left his home in the autumn, and continued journeying in his canoe until the rivers were locked by the win- ter. He hunted until the spring, when he resumed his voyage, the desire for instruction remaining urgent within him. A month later, whfle on a visit to Cumberland Fort, Mr. Hunter met with two other Indians from the Rapid-River, who were then on their way to Cumberland Station for further instruction than they had been able to gain from the visits of Christian Indians to them. On this occasion Mr. Hunter relates the way in which the Rapid-River Ixiv II la' 1 Indians had become anxious to know more of Christianity — Some two or three years ago, one of these Indiaun, Great Chief, visited the Pas [Mr. Hunter'; StatiouJ for instruction ; and, after remaining there son c time, procured some initiatory hooks and tracts iVom Henry Budd, and left for the purpose of returning home, with the laudable intention of endeavouring to com- municate a little of that instruction which l;o had found so profitable to himself. From that period up to ^he prek ^'nt; tiiue he ha?? steadily kept this object in view, cccasionsliy visiting the Pas for the purpose of obtain- ing furthc'^ instruction, and returning to his country- men io dispense it ; and so desirous were the Indians to listen to the message of salvation, although im- parted by 80 inadequate an instrument, that they have kept him up four nights in succession, listening to the truths of the Gospel from his lips. Party after party would enter his tent, and, after retiring for a short time for refreshment and repose, would return again to obtain further information. Their cry is, " Send us a Teacher : we are poor and ignorant ; have pity, then, on our poverty and our ignorance, and teach us the blessings of salvation." ^ (»■ Impressed with the great importance of the opening, Mr. Hunter prevailed on James Beardy, one of his best-instructed Indians, at once to pro- ceed to a place near the Rapid River, called Lac- la-Ronge, about 200 miles from the Cumberland ^y after for a return cry 18, have and Ixv Station. In a Letter dated September 2, 1845, Beardy wrote to Mr. Hunter — I feel a pleasure in endeavouring to follow your instructions who sent me into this neighbourhood. The Indians here are so desirous of instruction in the Christian Religion that they will not allow me to go back : therefore I have determined to pass the winter among them. They told me that it was the first time they had heard the good words of salvation. Be so good as to write mo a few lines by the first opportunity, and tell me the way I must go on with the Natives ; and I shall always try my best to per- form your orders. In May 1846, Heche Hookemow, or the Great Chief, referred to above, visited the Cumberland Station — ^principally for baptism, to which ordi- nance he and his family were admitted on the 7th of June. On the 16th of June, Beardy returned to the Cumberland Station from Lac-la-Ronge, bringing with him a family of Indians for instruction and baptism. On the next day Mr. Hunter writes — Conversing with Beardy and the Rapid-River In- dians who arrived yesterday. The account which Beardy gives is most encouraging. There are twenty families waiting the arrival of a Christian Teacher. He has engaged in prayer with them daily, and on p Ixvi !. ^ ^.v v\ 23 WIST MAIN STtffT WIB^TIR.N.Y. USM (71«)«72'4S03 '^ Map ol" part of the HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY^TERRITORI Sliowhuj the Stations of' tJie CUVHCU MlSSlOmiRY SOCIETY ivid the Route of the , . BISHOP OF MONTREAL fixiui(^W'l)«' totho Rtnl River Sellieiu«?ui 50 I'M) »00 1 1 I I I I I I SobU- of Fji;|!hHh Milvg : Ttu- Bislwps- Rmttc uf no/trunvl REV. j 'Ihc Socie^i' Stations ui\' nuirkvd "f \ uyictibJiOritJflLb' l.oi.JaTi I ther^ witnessed. To this task I now ad- dress myself, proposing chiefly to execute it in the form of a condensed abstract from my Journal ; but, even now, I am by no means sure of being able to complete it be- fore the closing of the mail on the 24th of the present month. Departure from Qmbec for Montreal. Havinff, by the great goodness of God, been enabled again to undertake this long- cherished project, the hope of accomplishing which appeared, in 1842, to be extinguished by the extraordinary illness which it pleased Him at that time to lay upon me — and having once more put all matters in tra* for it by communications, which had t^ . most encouraging result, with the heads of the Church at home, the Society, the Hud- son's Bay Company, and the Missionaries upon the spot — I left Quebec, by Steamer, for Montreal, on the 13th of May last, and on the morning of the 16th embarked in my canoe at La Ghinej nine miles above the latter city, where the Company have an important Depdt Equipments and Crew. My equipment, and the means of my conveyance, having been provided, with the utmost alacrity, at the charge of the Society, in their desire to procure the Episcopal ministrations for the remote Mission of the Ked River, it may be satisfactory, upon this as well as upon other and obvious grounds, to state that the arrangements were all •made for me in the most excellent manner, and with the most careful attention^ by direction of Sir George Simpson, the Gover- nor of the Company's Territory, who was at La Chine at the time. A new birch-bark canoe was provided, of the largest class, such as is called a canot de maitre, having fourteen paddles, and being of the length of thirty-six feet. The crew were picked men, and most of them were, more or less, experienced voyageurs. One had accom- panied Captain Franklin to the Arctic re- Q 2 I'' I f ; i H gions in 1825. Eight of them were French Canadians : six were Iroquois Indians, from the village of Caughnawaugha, opposite to La Chine, where a Mission was eatt blished for this Tribe during the French possession of the country. All, of either race, were Roman Catholics — a great drawback from the comfort of a voyage of many weeks through the wilderness, in which several Sundays were to be passed, with only my own sert^ant to benefit — beside our mutual benefit — by any ministrations afforded by my Chaplain and myself Our guide, a functionary who, in a manner, conducts the whole enterprise, was an Iroquois, and a man of the very first reputation in his line : the steersmen — of whom there are two, on account of the practice of exchanging the large canoe for two smaller ones, and di- viding the crew, at the upper end of Lake Superior — were Canadians. The other eleven men are called middlemen. One of them however, who acted as our own cook, and had charge of our provisions and all the apparatus connected with our culinary department, had certain perquisites and privileges above the rest. The Tadians all spoke French sufficiently for the common purposes of the day. We were thus seven- teen persons in the canoe. Our baggage, bedding, and provisions, with the equip- ments of the canoe and the tent, were estimated, I think, at the weight of a ton and a half. Mode of Travelling, We travelled for some few days up the Ottawa, with Settlements or detached habi- tations within our reach ; and, in fact, we were far up this river before we bid adieu to the region where Steamers have pene- trated, and inns have been established at intervals connected with their trips ; but we fell at once, to avoid all delay and to make sure of keeping our people together, into the habits and rules of the voyagear, and our only recourse to the houses was to procure milk, for which payment was always re- fused, for our tea. M M I I I * I The whole system of travelling on this route is framed with reference to the neces- sity of accomplishing an enormous distance, presenting many obstructions and tedious delays, within a given time. The season is short ; for the navigation is not open before the end of April, and much inconvenience and detention are apt to be encountered if Lake Superior be not crossed, on the downward route, before the end of August — the high winds of September rendering it often impossible, for many days together, for a canoe to proceed at all upon that pro- digious expanse of water, and the size of the craft precluding any arrangement for carrying a considerable stock of provisions. In fact, I was strongly advised to lay my plans in such a manner as, humanly speak- ing, to ensure my return to La Chine before the end of August. Duties in my own Diocese made it impossible for me to set out before the middle of May. With every exertion, I was not likely to accomplish the voyage, or journey — I hardly know which to call it — in a less space of time than one of between five and six weeks, each way ; and being anxious to afford all the time in my power to the Mission, and, if it should have been found necessary, to visit the Catechist's Station at Cumberland, I had evidently no time to lose. The rules in travelling, observed with more or less strictness according to circumstances, but without any material deviation, are to rise about three o'clock ; hastily throwing on your clothes, to jump into the canoe, and push your way on till about eight, when /ou go ashore, and an hour is allowed for breakfast. It was our practice, while breakfast was in preparation, to make our toilet, going a little apart behind a tree, and hanging a traveller's looking-glass upon one of the branches ; and it was in these operations, although often abridged by the omission of the process of shaving, that the mosquitoes and smaller flies of two different kinds, were most annoying. Ano- ther stop is made about two o'clock for dinner ; but this is usually cold, and only half an hour is allowed for it. We then iil 8 * li'- r i 1 i . ' keep going commonly till a little after sun- set — sometimes a little earlier where the places suitable for camping are rare, as in Lake Superior, and we happen to reach one of them before the day has wholly declined — often considerably later when the nights are fine, and the way without difficulty. Upon two or three occasions, when we found that we could sail, and it was a great point to take advantage of our wind, we ran the Whole night. I may here observe, that we are not in the least cramped in the canoe ; but can lounge in any posture that we like, or lie at length, if needful, covered over with our blankets, and, in case of rain, a tarpaulin for a quilt, which may be drawn over head and all. As soon as we go ashore at night, the tent is mounted for the passengers — myself and the Rev. P. «^ Maning, who accom- panied me as Chaplain. My servant also slept within the tent. The three beds, con- sisting of blankets and a stout green rug, with cloth pillows, of which articles I had rather more than my share, but without «M*«™f|^— WI WWI !■■» sheets or mattrasses, are spread upon pieces of tarpaulin, and, with the chests, &c., be- tween, precisely fill the whole interior of the tent. Two huge fires are lighted, com- posed of drift-wood, or fallen trees ; or, in some places, of trees felled upon the spot One of these is close to the tent — and thank- ful we were, on many a cold or wet evening, to get over it — ^that for the canoe-men is at some little distance — and then the kettles are set boiling, and the cooking operations begin. In wet weather the men sleep under the canoe, which is always drawn ashore and inverted at night : they lie two and two toge- ther, and the smallest men occupy the places under the bow and the stern. In general they sleep beneath the canopy of heaven. Each man has one blanket. The canoe is examined by experienced hands, while some day>light remains, to ascertain whether any rents have been made in the bark by scrap- ing against rocks in passing through rapids, or otherwise ; and the gum which is over the seams is spread, as required, by the ap- plication of burning brands. If there has li /. 10 been reason to apprehend more serious in« jury, some fuller opportunity of day-light is taken, and recourse is had to the keg of resinous gum which is always carried in the canoe, and, perhaps, to spare pieces of bark, of which a supply is also taken. The distance from La Chine to the Red River is commonly estimated at 1800 miles; but it is not accurately known. Sir George Simpson, one of the most remarkable travellers in the world, accom- plishes the distance in visiting the Red River— and thence proceeding, by a circuit^ ous route, to Hudson's Bay, and so back, by a different line of route still, till it falls into the Ottawa — in a wonderfully short time. He calls his men at half-past one o'clock, and sets out each day about two A.M. ■# DifficuUies and Varieties of the Jovmey, At times you make a great distance in a day, descending a swift river with an 11 exemption, for some unusual space, from the frequent interruption of Portages ; ♦ or sailing, it may be, along an open lake. Upon other occasions, you are contending against a powerful and turbulent stream, and mastering the current opposed to you sometimes by poling, sometimes by the tow- ing-line drawn by the men — who are now in the water, now scrambling along its edge through tangled woods — sometimes by the mere force of the paddle. Or you are brought to a stand by a cataract, or an im- passable rapid, and then comes the whole process of unloading the canoe and dividing out every article which it contains to be carried upon the backs of the men, others being employed in carrying the canoe itself upon their shoulders ; and all this, here over broken rocks, and there, perhaps, through deep and miry swamps. Often you have scarcely re-loaded, and seated yourself again in the canoe, before another similar obstruction presents itself, and the * Carrying-places. t 'iV 1>A !.»! w : ] 12 i whole double labour of unloading and re- loading is to be gone through over again. In parte of the Winnipeg River, these PorUiges occur in very rapid succession ; and some of them are only of a few yards in length separated from each other by a distance not very much greater. The longest Port- age upon the whole route is called five miles. Again, on the great lakes, but par- ticularly on Lake Superior, you are liable, even in' the best season, to the necessity of lying by, for a day here or a day there, or a couple or more days together, when the winds and waves become too high for the canoe. This detention the voyageurs describe by the term digrader. We were considered fortunate in not being obliged to pass any one whole day upon the shores of this Lake. It took us eight days to as- cend it, and a week to come down. Line of Route. The line of the whole route is as follows. After ascendingthe Ottawa for about a week, 13 you pursue a course almost at right angles to the direction of that ascent. Entering the river Mattawan at its confluence with the Ottawa, passing again from this through La Petite Rivihrey and some small lakes, traversing the high lands from whence the waters flow in opposite directions, you reach Lake Nipissin, and, having crossed it, de- scend the whole length of French River into Lake Huron. You then coast up the northern shore of this Lake for 190 miles, which brings you to the 8avt Sainte Marie, at the lower extremity of Lake Superior. Thence you coast, in like manner, up the northern shore of the last-mentioned Lake, till you reach Fort William, a Station of the Company, at the mouth of the River Ka- menistiquoia. Here the large canoe is ex- changed for two smaller ones, more adapted to the travelling which is to follow ; * but much less so for the passage of the great lakes, and you »gain ascend the waters. * They are called canois du nord. The whole voyage is sometimes performed in them. •' m \\ ■i 14 passing into the interior up the river just named ; and so, by an immense chain of lakes and rivers, varying infinitely in size — the smallest lakes being little more than spacious ponds, and the smallest rivers scarcely entitled to be called any thing but brooks — you reach Lake Winnipeg, which is 300 miles long ; and, passing a short way up the shore, enter and ascend the Red River. In the course of this latter part of the route, commencing at Fort William, you again reach a height from which the waters fall either way, and here is the boundary between Canada and the Hudson's Bay Territory. The Rainy Lake, and the Lake of the Woods, are the most considerable of those of which you travel the length, after leaving Lake Superior. The River Winni- peg, which flows out of the Lake of the Woods into the Lake of its own name, is a magnificent stream, abounding in foaming rapids and thundering falls, many of which are of extraordinary beauty ; but any de- scription of which, in detail, would be wholly inconsistent with the limits which I 15 prescribe to myself here, intending only to convey a general idea of the whole journey, and having already been carried to a length beyond my own anticipations. There are still, however, some few leading features, and prominent points of the journey, which it may not be uninteresting to notice, with- out exhibiting them in any particular order or connexion. Particular Features or Occurrences of the Journey. In passing through long tracts of country, where there is so little to remind you of living human beings, it is rather striking to meet with the mementos of the dead. It is the custom of the voyageurs, in case of death among their number, by drowning or any other casualty, to plant a low wooden cross on the spot where the body lies. We saw several of these crosses, sometimes two or three together, on the Portages by the side of rapids, in the higher parts of the .magnificent Ottawa ; and in the Portage I^^^i^ • ntmrn m \i-m^ ^^^'''^FmmmmKr* 16 i i which is called Rocher du Gapijaine there is one, said to commemorate the death of a man whose neck was broken in carrying the canoe, and bearing this inscription, rudely cut upon the arms of the cross : Aujour- d'hui pour moi : denmin toi. Upon a low bare rocky point in Lake Nipissin, there are fourteen crosses, serving, as we were told, to record the loss of the whole crew of a canoe, with which another was in company at the time. We found a few single crosses, at wide intervals, beyond Lake Superior. These were the memorials of men who, though such is the chosen emblem of their system, had darkened views of the doctrines of the cross ; but we found, also, the obscure and solitary graves, concealed among the bushes, in some spots where we landed, within the Hudson's Bay Territory, of those to whom Christ was totally unknown. These graves were roofed over with birch-bark. The Indians are said to deposit, with the dead, his gun, and other articles which he is supposed to find useful in the other world. In the immediate neighbourhood of the 17 Rainy Lake Fort, where there is a resort of Indians, and where we saw them encamped, there is an oblong box, resting upon a small platform, and supported by four posts, per- haps ten feet high, which contains the bones of a Chief, held in especial honour ; and these bones, it appears, had been removed all the way from Fort William to a spot more frequented by the connexions of the deceased. We experienced more cold, both in de- gree and in duration, than I had expected. In crossing small bays, as we coasted up Lake Superior, on the 3rd and again on the 5th of June, we broke our way through a thin coat of ice, which had been formed over the whole surface of these bays during the night. It is a very singular noise which is produced by the paddles in this opera- tion, and not unlike distant thunder : so, at least, it seemed to me when it woke me as I happened to be dozing in the canoe. It is only in an extraordinary concurrence of circumstances that the whole of this vast fresh-water sea can freeze over. I H < ! II ( It f M ; 18 was assured that this happened in the win- ter of 1843, after a calm of four days, and during intensely cold weather. No other instance of this is said to be remem- bered. On the 10th of June, when we camped upon the edge of the River Kame- nistiquoia, the ice formed during the night upon the paddles was a quarter of an inch thick. On the 11th, still upon the same river, there was a crust of ice found up- on the water left close to our fire in a tin pot. At Fort William, situated, as I have said, at the mouth of this river, there is a fishery carried on, which employs a good many Indians, of different sexes and ages ; the fish being cured for the Montreal mar- ket, besides affording the principal food of the dependents upon the Fort. The species is white-fish, of a very excellent quality, and the numbers taken are something pro- digious. Five thousand of these fish were taken in om morning before breakfast during the past summer. At the distance of about a day's journey up the river, from the Fort, 19 are the Kakab^ka Falls — poured down an awful chasm in the rocks — after Niagara, incomparably the grandest and most strik- ing cataract that I ever saw. Fort William is approached througli Thunder Bay. It is a singular and beau- tiful scene : shut in, on one side, by an irregular range of heights, of which the lower part, consisting of densely wooded slopes, is crested by very lofty and precipi- tous columnar rocks, entirely bare. On the other side of the bay are some remarka- ble eminences and islets — one of the emi- nences having very much the appearance of a huge bastion, or military rounded work. The rude and rocky solitudes, through which we passed, exhibited, at intervals, many scenes of romantic beauty ; and the features of the landscape assume, in some few instances, a softened character, as in the Rainy Lake River, and the lower part of the Kamenistiquoia, where green sloping banks are crowned with a full foliage of well-grown deciduous trees, and fringed by luxuriant shrubs and bushes. Most of the H 2 f I! M IM ( I ' 20 ^ lakes abound in small rocky islets, covered partially or wholly with wood. Parts of the Ottawa — I do not speak of those which are within the verge of established civili- zation, and which comprehend some re- markable objects of attraction — are very beautiful ; and nothing can exceed the ro- mantic rapids known by the name of the Culbute and the Calumet, in that river, at the latter of which the Government is engaged in constructing a slide for timber, which has already produccjd a nascent vil- lage. But the hand of the Creator has also gemmed the wilderness with minor decorations ; and the eye is often refreshed by the sight of flowers, or trees, and shrubs, in blossom. I forbear to particularize them ; yet I cannot refrain from mention- ing that in parts of the downward route, in July and August, our way was en- livened by the greatest profusion of wild roses, and highly-scented white water-lilies of extraordinary beauty. The only wild quadruped that we saw, on the whole jour- ney, except some insignificant kinds, was 21 a wolf. "We disturbed, upon the waters, innumerable wild ducks of different kinds, and we saw many loons, and some other aquatic birds, and a few of the heron tribe. We also saw a good many eagles. Lake Winnipeg is frequented by the wild swan and the pelican ; but we did not meet with either, and were, indeed, a little too late in the season at that spot for the wild swan, of which four different kinds are found within the Hudson's Bay Territory, and of which the down is one of the articles ex- ported by the Company. I brought home with me a pair of antlers, of portentous size, of the wapiti deer, which were made a pre- sent to me at the Red River. In the late Mr. Simpson's Journal, this animal is called the red deer, by which name it is known among the English-speaking inhabitants : the French call it biche. We saw one domesticated buffalo, grazing with the other cattle in the pastures of the Red River Settlement. . ;i '■ i ( f t^\'f\ 22 Inhahitants, or Stragglers^ met with along the Route. I come now to speak of the rational in- liabitants, who are sprinkled along these wilds. After passing the habitations of a meagre and widely-severed population which begin to break the dense continuity of forest in the higher parts of the Ottawa, we bid q,dieu to settlements, and during our last day upon that river, in mounting it, we saw no human habitation except the little post of the Company at the mouth of the Mattawan, where we slept. The traces of lumberers, who may be called the pioneers of settlement, are found to linger further up : and we breakfasted, one rainy morn- ing, before reaching the Mattawan, in one of their empty shanties, a rude temporary edifice of trunks felled upon the spot and left in their rough natural state — at least equal, however, to many habitations of new settlers, which often take the same name. The word, no doubt, is a corruption ofchan- tieVj and strictly, therefore, should describe the place of the lumber-men's operations rather than the building constructed for their shelter. They are a wild, reckless, adventurous race, and the life which they lead tends too often to demoralize the youth of the country who engage in it. We fell in with but few of them ; but, in one in- stance, our canoe-men raced with a crew of lumberers, and the lumberers — who were the defeated party — afterward camped close by us. I got into conversation with a fine active young fellow, who appea-ed to have been reared in religious habits in Ireland ; but who acknowledged to me his total neglect, and that of all the Protestant por- tion of his companions, of private devotion or means of edification — ^pleading, when I urged upon him the reproach of falling behind the Romanists, whose advantages were so vastly inferior, that they were in- deed punctilious in their prayers, but in their lives and language not less profane and careless than those who omitted them. And so the unhappy formality of one set of men is made to furnish a dispensation from 'I s 24 religious duty by others who have better means of light. We were now fairly in the wilderness, and, speedily turning our backs upon the last vestige even of lumbering enterprise, had this wilderness before us for a journey of perhaps five weeks more to the Red River, without a trace of civilized man except the solitary posts of the Company, and the more considerable interruption in the neighbourhood of the Saut Sainte Marie; where, on both sides, there is some settle- ment, and, on the American side, a small military post directly opposite to that of the Company The Company's posts, which are estab- lished at very unequal intervals, are gene- rally called Forts ; and some of them are surrounded by a high and strong stockade. siTe stopped, both in going and returning, at ten of these posts, the first of whicb is upon the Ottawa, not above 250 rcAlei: from Montreal ; and in six instances, tak- ing the two journeys together^ we enjoyed their shelter for the night. Upon these occapioiu., we always collected the few per- 20 sons who could bo got togeilior lor prayers and some religious instruction, and our services appeared always to be thankfuM^ recei^ ed We had the opportunity, in thre^^ inpi..;n'9M of regularly officiating to a little l>an'? of hearers, at the Forts, on Sundays — upon one of these occasions, I signified to our crew, through the cook, that we should be glad to see them if they would attend ; but none of them did so, except the cook himself. In two othey cases, the wife of the gentleman in charge expressing an earnest desire for Confirmation, I ad- ministered that rite, in its full solemnity, to the solitary Candidate. I mention this particularly, because I previously examined these two ladies, who were Half-breeds, myself; and their seriousness, humility, and acquaintance, at the same time, with essential scriptural truths, as well as, more generally, with their Bibles, afforded a very satisfactory testimony in favour of the Red River School, established under the auspices of the Church Missionary Society, in which they had been educated. A very few sub- I < 26 lA i il (I , i .1 ! t I. ( )\: ordinates, who are often Roman Catholics, and a larger number of dependents, who are Heathen Indians, augmented, at certain seasons, by some transient inhabitants of the sam^ class, make up, with the gentle- man in charge and his family, if he has one, the list of persons at most of the Forts. The principal posts are in charge of Chief Factors : the next grade is that of Chief Trader : some inferior posts are committed to th'e hands of clerks. The particular spot is selected on account of some local advantages, and there is usually a kitchen- garden, of very limited produce, some pas- turage, and a dairy, attached to the es- tablishment. At Fort William the dairy is really a very complete affair. I carried a letter from Sir George Simpson to be pre- sented at every post where I should stop ; but the kindness and attention which we everywhere experienced at the hands of the Company's servants were marked by an em- pressement which showed them to proceed from spontaneous feeling, and gave the bet- ter zest to those comforts and refreshments 27 demanded by the wants of the body, which were tendered in a manner, and under cir- cumstances, stamping them with a resem blance to the exercise of primitive hospi- tality towards the way-worn stranger. It may be supposed that common things are often by no means common in places like these. At one of the posts, where we brought away some milk, there was no such thing as an empty bottle to be had, and the vessel which we borrowed for the purpose was left at the next Fort with a strict charge that it should be returned by the first op- portunity. At these posts we also procured, when necessary, supplies to be charged in the account ; for the provision which we could carry tapered down very rapidly in the hands, or rather in the mouths, of seven- teen men It was not always that we could get food of a very choice kind : in one in- stance, at a very remote post, our reple- nishment of provisions consisted of small whe.*ten cakes, made of very discoloured flour, a pair of fowls, which were a present. . I U I 28 and a supply of maple sugar, for ourselves ; with pemmican, or pounded bufPalo-meat, for the men. But we had always enough to eat, without danger, also, of running short in point of quantity ; and we had with us, in the canoe, the accounts of some journeys made by adventurers in the fur- trade, in other parts of these regions, or by men exploring them in the cause of science, whose hardships, privations, and dangers, would have made us blush to complain of anything which we encountered ; even if we had not had another Book in our com- pany, which tells us of the Patriarch's pil- low of stone, and the Apostle's night and day in the deep, and which teaches us, as the disciples of One who had not where to lay His head, having " food and raiment to be therewith content." The longest space of time which we passed without seeing a single human being, was five days and a half This was after we left the mountain Portage at the Kaka- beka Falls, where there was a small en- campment of Indians, and passed up the iHi. 'irtu 29 Kamenistiquoia into the chain of streams and lakes beyond, before reaching the Rainy Lake. We fell in with straggling Indians, generally at wide intervals, all the length of the route ; sometimes in their little canoes, sometimes sojourning in a solitary tent of bark, or in little parties which occupied two or three such habita- tions. They almost always came alongside of us to barter fresh or dried fish, generally sturgeon, of a very large size, for tobacco, pemmican, or fragments of biscuit. They were all Sauteux,* so called from the Saut Sainte Maries one of the great stations of this extensively-ramified Tribe ; but by their own Indian name, Ogibwas, till lately called and written, corruptly, Chippawas by the English, who have given the perma- * The English pronounce and write it Sauteaux, and, if I recollect rightly, it is so spelt in the late Mr. Simpson's Journal ; but the Eoman Catholic Bishop at the Red River, who gave me the ety- mology of the word, pointed out that it should be written Sauteux. V hi I ' V'^ 80 - , nent name of Chippawa to a village near the Falls of Niagara. They could, with few exceptions, speak neither French, English, nor Iroquois, and all their communication with us was by signs. If addressed in any of the languages here mentioned, they have a very expressive way of putting the finger to the ear as if to intimate deafness, to which, in its effect, their ignorance of the lang^iage is equivalent. In other p ces, we came to considerable encampments, of perhaps 200 savages, and we counted, at one of them, thirty canoes ; but this was an exceedingly rare occurrence on the jour- ney. We encamped nearer to a large body of them than we intended, or desired, in the Rainy Lake River, where we saw their fires, and heard their drum, or tom-tom, which appeared to be going for a great part of the night. In this quarter they are noted for thieving with a surprising adroitness, and baggage the most closely watched has some- times not wholly escaped their pillage. We did not, however, lose a single article. 81 These different bodies had shifted their en- campments when we returnea.* Nothing can be more pitiable, in my esti- mation, than the condition of these poor Heathens : nothing more calculated to ex- cite an interest in favour of all rightly -con- ducted efforts for their conversion. They are sometimes regarded with a sort of admi- ration, as the unsophisticated children of nature ; and, still more, as exhibiting the very impersonation of a high-toned inde- pendence, and an unshackled manliness of spirit. Children of nature they are : and what kind of moral nurse is mother nature, * The Indians, when they move, leave the skeleton of their tents ; but carry with them the bark, which is in great rolls, stitched at the ends by a fibrous thread to a slender stick. Most of their tents are conical ; the smoke, issuing from an aperture at the point of junction of the poles, directly over the fire which is in the centre of the tent. When the tent smokes, they apply a piece of bark as a remedy, which is stuck up on one side of the aperture above, and placed on this side or on that, according to the direction of the wind. Ml i S I\ ' ' '^ ^ . ^ i 82 a Christian has no need to ask. They are physically a fine race of men^ and they are perfectly susceptible of moral, and intellec- tual, and spiritual culture ; but their actual condition presents a most degrading picture of humanity. Some of them came up to us in dirty blankets, or dirtier dresses of worn and tattered hare-skins : others were totally naked, except the waist-cloth, their heads, with scarcely an exception, protected only by an enormous mass of long black hair. Others, in the encampments, who appeared to be persons of some distinction, and whose attire was in better order, were tricked out more like Bedlamites than rational beings ; a silly and undiscriminat- ing passion for ornament prompting them to turn to this account whatever frippery they can become possessed of ; so that the thimbles, for example, which they procure from the Company are seen dangling at the end of loiig thin braids of hair which hang from the men's foreheads : some have fea- thers stuck into their hair, and these, per- haps, bent into an imitation of horns ; with 33 others appended to resemble the ears of an animal. Many have their faces painted, all the lower part of the visage being made perfectly black, and the eyes encircled with bright Vermillion ; but it would be impos- sible to describe the varieties of their cos- tume, or their fantastic decorations : and there they sit, or rather squat, smoking and basking in the sun the live-long day, sunk in an indolence from which nothing seems to rouse them but the excitement of war, or of the chase. Every species of labour and drudgery, in the mean time, is thrown entirely upon the women, and if an Indian travels on foot with his family, all the load which is to be carried is consigned to the back of his wife or wives ; for he does not always content himself with one. We were particularly struck with the appearance of one savage, who, squatting, with his whole figure in a heap, upon the point of a pro- jecting rock which overhung the river, per- fectly naked and perfectly motionless, star- ing down upon us out of the hair which buried his head and covered his shoulders. ■w>Mpnpr"ipiM i' H I , i: i /. 84 , ^ looked like some hideous idol of the East. The passion for tobacco among these people appears to be excessive and universal : they receive a little fragment of it with unre- pressed delight, and will promise sometimes a good wind to the traveller in compensation for the favour. Their passion also for liquor is well known ; but it is a great blessing that the Company have adopted measures to withhold from them this devastating curse. That some of them are practised thieves, I have already had occasion to notice : whether this characteristic attaches exten- sively to the race, I cannot say ; but they appear veiy generally to be inveterate gam- blers, and will strip themselves of every article they possess, in the unsuccessful in- dulgence of this passion. Their abject condition struck me very forcibly in seeing their women and girls, exceedingly good- looking lasses of seventeen or eighteen, putting themselves in the way of our canoe- men to earn from them a few handfuls of pemmican or other fragments of coarse food, by helping to carry the loads across 35 the Portages, and screaming at the top of their voices in contending for more than was given to them, as if noise could make their strange language more intelligible. One poor woman, with three young child- ren, kept company with us in her canoe for the greater part of a day, and assisted in this way at every Portage. Thus they, the ancient lords of the soil, and invested still, in many imaginations, with a species of wild dignity and grandeur, are glad to gather up the crumbs which fall from the superfluity of our roughest class of hirelings, and to make themselves, as it were, beasts of burthen for their benefit. The men and boys, also, will make this exertion for the same inducement. The vices to which these Indians are addicted, prevail, as is but too sadly notori- ous, among professed Christians ; but where is there a cure for them at all, but in the Christian system efficiently applied ? and what is more conspicuous than that where- ever it is so applied, they disappear ? Euro- peans, in some points of view, have done I 2 ■ m > m -— ' I f I 'H Hi unspeakable mischief to the Indians, and they owe them a long-accumulated repara- tion ; but as matters are now conducted, their condition is meliorated by their con- nexion with the Whites, and their partial assimilation to European habits ; and this is one step of approach toward their enjoy* ment of fuller blessings and more exalted privileges. Those who are attached to the Fort^ are far more comfortable in their ap- pearance than the others. That they are a fine race of people phy- sically, I have already said ; and I have certainly seen among them some striplings, from fifteen to eighteen years old — suffi- ciently neat in their persons, with a manly bearing and an elastic tread, their limbs well-turned, their hands and nails well- formed, their dark beaming eyes harmoniz- ing with a profusion of glossy black hair and a sunned complexion — who did seem, altogether, to carry the stamp, if I may so express it, of a natural nobility. I have been assured that there is no such thing known, as a dwarfish or deformed Indian. They are certainly fine animals. 37 What they are capable of becoming, as the rational creatures of God, and subjects for His grace, I shall have occasion to show hereafter, and I shall then speak, also, if so permitted, of certain superstitions which prevail among them in their Heathen state. The Society may not be sorry, although they will hear nothing new, to receive a sketch, be it but an imperfect one, of the condition, efficiency, and prospects of the Mission, from other hands than those of the Missionaries themselves. But I am obliged to reserve for another Letter the account of my actual visit at the Red River, and I shall now conclude this by a descrip- tion of our efibiis made to gain that place at the close of our ascending journey. Efforts to reach the Red River, We camped at nightfall, on the 21st of June, upon a level rock beside the Winni- peg River, whose whole volume of water here rushes down in an impetuous and roar- ing fall — called le petit rocher du bonnet. (/ 'I l-f 1 I i 38 , At three o'clock the next morning, a cry was raised that the Governor was coming in view ; and, accordingly, by the time that we were ready to receive him. Sir Qeorgo Simpson, attended by his Secretary, stepped from his canoe upon the rock, being on his way down from the Red Kiver. We re- mained together a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, to arrange some matters connected with an Ordination to be there held, and upon that rock an official letter relating to the subject was written at his dictation and signed by himself. We then parted, to proceed in opposite directions. The spot, I believe, is about 100 miles from the Lower Fort, at the Red River. We passed down the Winnipeg River, stop- ping to breakfast, and take in some few sup- plies, at Fort Alexander; and, entering Lake Winnipeg, began to coast round in order to gain the mouth of the Red River. It was Saturday. If it could only be possible to reach the first Church of the Settlement during the night, it might, besides prevent- ing. as it were, the dead loss of anothei: 39 Sabbath, save us a whole week ; for I know that less than threo Sundays would not suf- fico for my duties among the Churches, and I judged that, by diligently improving the time of my sojourn, I might properly accom- plish them without remaining for a fourth. This I represented to the guide, and the other men, and they cheerfully undertook to carry me on, calculating that we should reach our destination about midnight, or one in the morning. We went ashore for supper on a flat islet in the Lake, of sand and shingle, and there witnessed a sunset of unequalled glory : the gorgeous splendour of the descending orb through a blaze of gold among empurpled clouds, contrasted with a remarkable depth and massiveness of gloom which covered the whole face of the adjacent heavens where a thunder-storm was collecting itself, while a long stream of golden light vas playing upon the waves up to the very spot where we stood. We got our tea, and re-embarked without rain ; but then the storm began, and the lightning was vivid and brilliant. The moon showed ii f I f li.l u> i 40 - , herself afterwards by fitful glances between ♦ the clouds ; but before long she sunk, and was lost to us. The rain now came down without interruption, and the night grew exceedingly dark. The whole shore is level, and even in day-light the mouth of the river is not always easily found, so that persons have been known to enter Pike or . Jack River — Riviere attco hrochets — ^by mis- take, intending to go to the Red River Set- tlement. Our guide, however, knew what he was about, and cautiously groped his way along the reedy shore, in one place jumping into the water and walking about to ascertain — as a help to his judgment of the locality, and its accordance with his own memory — the nature of the bottom with his feet. This mode of proceeding, however, was necessarily very slow; and the day broke upon us disclosing a bed, on either side, of green reeds or rushes extend- ing for miles together, out of which arose countless multitudes of wild ducks and some other water-fowl, with no object in the distance which looked like a Church. 41 *The men in the mean time, in both canoes, wet and weary as they were, preserved an unfailing patience, good-humour, and cheer- fulness ; and such, in fact, was their deport- ment from first to last. They had now been paddling, with the exception of our stay for breakfast at Fort Alexander, which was rather unusually prolonged, and half an hour's sailing on Lake Winnipeg, added to the stop made for supper — dinner we did not take on account of a late breakfast — they had been paddling, with these excep- tions, since a little after three on Saturday morning, and it was nine on the Sunday morning when we reached the Church and Mission-house of the Indian Settlement, distinctively so called. What we saw there, and what contrast it exhibited with things which we had seen on the way, I must tell you, if it please God, another time. We made our distance in thirty-eight days from La Chine. I am. Rev. Sir, Your faithful humble Servant, Gr. J. Montreal . I 1' i>l! li ^ ■ 1 I; 1 i j 1 1 j ■ f j; ; [■ r 11 . 1 ■ ■ 1 f 1; j » ■ i J.. LETTER II. PROCEEDINGS AT THE RED RIVER SETTLEMENT. Arrival at the Red River— Indian Church and Settlement. t » Quebec, Dec. 2, 1844. Reverend Sir, My Letter to you of the 20th of last month concluded with a statement Of my arrival at the Indian Settlement, forming the lower extremity of the Red River Colony, on Sunday morning the 23rd of June. It was about 9 o'clock, and within half an hour of the time for the commencement of Di- vine Service. The sight which greeted me was such as never can be forgotten by myself or my companions ; and the recol- lection will always be coupled with feelings of devout thankfulness to God, and warm 43 appreciation of the blessings dispensed by the Church Missionary Society. After tra- velling for upward of a month through an inhospitable -wilderness, and casually encoun- tering, at intervals, such specimens of the Heathen savage as I have described, we came at once, and without any intermediate gradation in the aspect of things, upon the Establishment formed upon the low margin of the river, for the same race of people in their Christian state ; and there, on the morning of the Lord's own blessed day, we saw them gathering already around their pastor, who was before his door ; their chil- dren collecting in the same manner, with their books in their hands, all decently clothed from head to foot : a repose and steadiness in their deportment, at least the seeming indications of a high and control- ling influence upon their characters and hearts. Around were their humble dwell- ings, with the commencement of farms, and cattle grazing in the meadows ; the neat modest Parsonage, or Mission-house, with its garden attached to it ; and the simple 44 but decent Church, with the School-house as its appendage, forming the leading ob- jects in the picture, and carrying, upon the face of them, the promise of blessing. We were amply rewarded for all the toils and exposure of the night. I have said that the scene could never be forgotten either by my companions or myself. My Chaplain natur rally felt as I did upon the occasion ; but it may not perhaps be wholly beneath notice that my servant, an Englishman, to whom everything in this journey was new, told me afterwards, that he could hardly com- mand his tears. Nor was it an unpleasing or worthless testimony that was rendered by one of our old voyageurs to the actual merits of the Mission, when, addressing this man, he said, "There are your Christian Indians " — ^the speaker being a French Ca- nadian Roman Catholic — " it would be very well if all the Whites were as good as they are.'' We were greeted by good Mr. Smith- urdt at the water's edge, and after having refreshed ourselves and robed under his roof, we proceeded to the Church. There 45 were perhaps 250 Indians present, compos- ing the whole Congregation. Nothing can be more reverential and solemn than the demeanour and bearing of these people in public worship. Their costume has a hy- brid kind of character, partly European, partly Indian, the former predominating among the men. The women, for the most part, still wear the blanket, or else a piece of dark cloth, thrown over the head, with the hair parted smoothly in front, and leg- gings from the knee downward. They all wear moccasins ; which indeed are worn by the Missionaries, and almost all the Euro- pean population of the Colony. The Morn- ing Service is performed in English ; but the Lessons are rendered into the Indian tongue by the interpreter, a Half-breed Schoolmaster, * who stands beneath the Clergyman. The same man rendered my sermon, sentence by sentence. The Even- * Mr. Joseph Cook, since dead. Vide p. 15 of the " Church Missionary Record " for January 1849. Hi I \i'mi }. iirf 46 X iiig Service is performed in the Indian lan- guage, Tvhich Mr. Smithurst has so far mas- tered as to use it where he is familiar with what he has to say ; but the Lessons are read and rendered as in the morning. It was followed by a sermon, which I again delivered, the interpreter doing his part as before. About two-thirds of the congrega- tion are said to understand a plain and simple address in English ; and, as far as this Settlement is concerned, the time, I conceive, is fast coming when no other will be required. But far and wide, let it be hoped, will there be occasion for carrying divine instruction, within the Territory, to ** men of other tongues."' Mr. Smithurst, as the Society is perhaps aware, has made great progress in the pre- paration of a Grammar of the Cree language, being that which is spoken by the great body of the Indian converts under the Society's care. It appears to b^- exceedingly complicated, abounding in moods and tenses, and exhibiting a great variety of inflections. The Quarterly Review, however, in No. ^■<'i 47 cxLViii., Article "Forster on Arabia," speaks thus — " The multiplied inflections (as they are improperly considered) of the Americans and Esquimaux, are plainly the contrivances of rude nations ; who, instead of using the simple and beautiful method of the Oriental nations, modified the relations of verbs and nouns, by the addition, in each instance, of whole words, which at length came to be statedly added in each change of mood or tense or case, but always unabbreviated ; which is one reason why their words pre- sent such an uncouth and polysyllabic ap- pearance to the eye : their supposed termi- nations being, in fact, no more part of the words which they modify, than the auxiliary particles are in English." I do not profess myself qualified to pronounce with what correctness these re- marks may be found applicable to the Cree language. The singing is conducted chiefly by the children of the School. I visited the Sunday- school, held in the School-house, and found I t It (!' 48 , a large attendance. The number of chil- dren on the list is 153 : it will possibly ap- pear fanciful ; but I could not help thinking of the precise correspondence of the number which these fishers of men -had here gathered in, with that of the miraculous draft of fishes, when the net was cast by the com- mand of Christ — John xxi. 11. After the. Evening Service, Mr. Smithurst made the most advanced children read to me in the Bible, and examined them not only in the Catechism, but in the Thirty-nine Articles. I do confess that I was much disposed to question the profitableness, to subjects of such a class, of this last-mentioned portion ol the instruction bestowed upon them ; and, taking an example, I asked Mr. Smith- urst what those Indian youths and girls would understand by the Twenty-first Ar- ticle : what conceptions they would attach to General Councils, and their just subordi- nation to Sovereign Princes. I proposed the question, however, wither in the form of inquiry than of objection ; and Mr. Smithurst satisfied me at once upon this 49 point by explaining that the Indians are quite familiar with Councils and solemn deliberations on their own affairs in the Tribes — that they are easily led to transfer this idea to the affairs of the Church — and that, having also a pre-possession in favour of the authority of Chiefs, and a strong feel- ing of dutiful respect for their " Great Mo- ther" the Queen, who, they are made to understand, protects the Church and con- forms to its system, they have no difficulty in connecting the notion of a reference to her pleasure — or that of a Sovereign gene- rally — with the deliberative proceedings of the Church of God. From all that I could gather, the Crees appear to be distinguished as a thinking and intelligent Tribe. There is a sprinkling of Sauteux in Mr. Sraith- urst's Congregation. The Church was shut up, after all was over, by an old Indian acting as a sort of Sexton, who had formerly been a noted Sor- cerer or Medicine in his Tribe. * * This old man died in peace on the 31st of July 60 ^ The day, altogether, was one of extraor- dinary inteiost ; and if the scenes which it presented could have been witnessed by those who are called upon to support the Society at home, and, still more, if they could have had the opportunity of contrasting them with the exhibitions of poor, dirty, and degraded Heathens, half, or wholly naked, or perhaps decked out with the most fantastic absurdity, who were to be seen on the way, a powerful accession of force would have been gained for the appeal to their charity. Arrival, at the Indian Settlement, of the Missionaries from the higher Stations, On Monday morning, the 24th, the Rev. Messrs. Cockran and Cowley, to whom information of my arrival had been con- veyed, came down, from their Stations up 1845. An account of his last illness and death is given in p. 280 of the " Church Missionary Eecord" for December 1846. 51 the river, to meet me ; and, in conference with them and Mr. Smithurst, I laid down the whole plan of my operations, and settled the distribution of my time and labour among the different Churches during my stay. This day, which was the Festival of St. John the Baptist, was spent still in the Indian Settlement, and the offices of the Church, which call to mind the preach- ing in the wilderness, were certainly not inappropriate with reference to our situation. We had a dcrvice in the evening, which was fully attended by the Indians, and my Chaplain, the Rev. P. J. Maning, preached to them through the interpreter. The Con- firmation was reserved for my return to the Settlement, on my homeward way. We walked, in the course of this day, over the Mission Farm, which constitutes, in fact, a branch of the Society's Establish- ment for the improvement of the Indians, since it is the model for their own agricul- tural operations ; and for this reason, as again in the case of Mr. Cockran at the Rapids, has been an object upon which the K 2 52 Missionary has bestowed some closeness of personal attention. In all respects it is truly gratifying to observe how the con- dition and the habits of the Indian are bettered by the exertions made, under the auspices of the Society, in his behalf. Departure to visit the other Churches. On the 25th, we put ourselves in motion to visit the Missionaries up the river, and, having crossed it, rode up with Mr. Smith- urst to Mr. Cockran's charge at the Rapids, calling, on our way, at the Lower Fort. I was mounted upon a horse of the Indian breed, an animal, however, of very peacea- ble and quiet — not to say dull — inclinations. My companions had English or American steeds. It had been settled that I should pass two more Sundays in the Colony,* and a couple of days or so beyond. I had thus * I use this term — which is known to be fully authorized — in preference to Settlement, just here, in speaking of the Establishments formed at the 58 about a fortnight now before mc, and it was necessary, under all the circumstances oi the case, to turn this time to the best pos- sible account, and to do all that God might enable me to do to give effect to this first Episcopal visit. I shall not trouble the Society with the detail of our proceedings, day by day, as noted in my Journal ; but the summary of them is as follows — and what makes them worth recording is, that haying placed myself at the disposal of the Clergy, who made a great number of appointments for me, I found all their arrangements most fully responded to by the people, of every class, and a marked and lively interest manifested throughout, in all the ministratio«is which were afforded. Confirmations. 1. With reference to the Confirmation n, Bed River, because I have occasion to use the word Settlement in describing the Establishment formed specially for the Indians. 54 ^ after some services at the different Churcheis, between which we kept passing backwards and forwards, with sermons introductory in part to the administration of the rite, the Candidates themselves met me by classes at the Lower or Rapids' Church — which is sadly too small for the Congregation — and in whole bodies at the other Churches, to receive some familiar instruction and exhor- tation in preparation for the assumption of their vows. This I based chiefly upon the Catechism, and upon the main heads of the sponsorial engagements. It was not that I meant to take the task of preparation out of the hands of the Clergy, nor that I con- ceived any preparation sufficient which could be gone through in so short a space of time : it was merely a help and a wind- ing up befove the actual assumption of the vows, and reception of blessing from the Church; and it originated in my having said long before, by letter, that as so many uncertainties must attach to the execution of my purpose, and that thence a special and direct preparation made by the Clergy 55 might be liable to be followed by a disap- pointment, in that case very undesirable, I would, if it should be their wish, render any assistance in my power, after my arri- val, in fitting the Candidates to present themselves. Nothing new was required in the way of examination : they are so con- stantly under the training, and so followed by the anxious and watchful eye, of the shepherds set over them, that the amount of their religious proficiency, as well as the tenor of their ordinary deportment, was perfectly well known beforehand. In fact the Clergy know them as a father knows his children, and they know whom to ad- mit and whom to debar, while other cases hung in the balance and were decided after being made the subjects of consideration, perhaps of some necessary allowance, with some particular charge, and the exaction of some particular promises. I had here an opportunity of seeing the great influence of the Clergy, and the willing acquiescence of the people; proceeding, not from any artfully-acquired authority, or determined jT Mil 56 establishment of an imperious ascendancy ; but, as I verily believe, from the faithful devotedness of the men employed in the Mission ; from the concern which they have manifested for the souls of those committed to them ; from the power of those holy truths which they have pressed upon the acceptance of sinful man ; and from the general benefits, also, which, in the most conspicuous manner, have flowed from the formation of the Mission in the Colony. These engagements were followed, of course, by the Confirmations themselves, upon each of which occasions full service was performed. At the Lower Church, there were two Confirmations held on the Sunday, on account of its contracted di- mensions. In the morning, 192 women and girls were confirmed : in the evening, 150 men and youths. This last was again the precise number of persons confirmed at the Middle Church, when both sexes were admitted together. And it was very remarkable, that this was also the exact number confirmed on the day following at 57 the IJpper Church. Two hundred, and something over, were confirmed at the In- dian Church on my return to it. I find that the total of the Confirmations is noted to have been 846 persons in the Red-River Colony. It would have been about a thousand ; but for the unavoidable absence of some of the subjects for the rite, either in the buffalo-hunting in the Prairies, or with the boats sent to Hudson's Bay. The grtx ': • dy of the population at the Rapids consists of Half-breeds, a term comprehending every shade of mixed blood among the Natives : at the Middle and Upper Churches there is a greater infusion of Europeans : in all the Congregations there is a proportion of pure Indians, and that at the Indian Church — as before stated — is, with some exceptions, a pure Indian body. The Half-breeds are called by the French mStifSj or familiarly hois-hrHles. The origin of this latter term I do not well know ; but I have heard it traced to a fan- cied resemblance of this darker race, as compared with their European fathers, to 58 the burnt standing trunks which are very commo' ly seen upon the skirts of their native forests, where the ravages of fire have taken effect. In clearing new land for settlement, it is well known that one of the processes is performed by burning ; but in the wildest depths jf continuous forest, along the line of uninhabited country through which we passed, nothing is more common than to see considerable tracts through which the fire has run, and in which the landscape is thence grievously disfigured. The fires left by the Indians, or by the voyageurs where they have camped for the night, or stopped to dress their meals, may easily, in dry and windy weather, communicate with the neighbour- ing trees, and spread extensively along the woods. Our own fires, in one or two in- stances, ran up some kind of resinous fir, and quickly produced a fierce and brilliant blaze. Even the droppings of a lighted pipe may, in some places, come in contact with the materials of fi,n incipient confla- gration in the forest. Part pf the Portage 59 called the Savanne was on fire when we passed through it. In one way or other, therefore, hois-hrdU is a very familiar object in the eyes of those who are conversant with the wilds of North Ame- ric 1 But this is a complete digression. In was truly a very interesting spectacle to behold the Churches filled, on all the different occasions connected with the Con- firmations, as well as at the public services on other days, by a people brought under the yoke of the Gospel, many of whom had been originally heathens, and the great body of whom had Indian blood in their veins ; and the effect was indescribably heightened by the deep attention with which they listened, and the devout reve- rence with which they knelt to receive the imposition of hands — ^the comfortable Iiope shedding its ray over the solemnity, that they did in sincerity dedicate themselves to Christ. I was much struck at one of the preparatory meetings in Mr. Cockran's immediate charge — where, as I have said, the Candidates came by divisions — ^by the 60 V perfectly correct and serioiis deportment of about seventy young girls, some of them still wer Ichool-children, who were brought together without mothers, or matrons, or elders of any kind, to put them under re- straint ; and I could not help thinking that it would have been difficult to collect the same number of such subjects in an Euro- pean commi.nity, who would have preserved, as these girls did, an inviolate reverence even in the vacant intervals before and after service, and during the calling over of the names from a list which Mr. Cockran held in his hand. At the close of the instruc- tion given to each of the different classes, he desired that all would stand up who were willing to undertake the vows. There was only one instance of any demur : this was in the case of a woman who had had qnarrels with her husband, and with whom Mr. Cockran did not feel satisfied. He had taken means to explain to her what was expected from her in certain points of con- jugal duty, and she did not, when it came to the point, seem prepared to act up to this 61 expectation. But the poor creature was the only one present of a distinct Tribe, for whose language there was a difficulty, at the moment, in finding an interpreter ; and I ^.0 believe that she was misunderstood. There is a remarkable modesty and re- serve in the whole deportment of the Indian women — partly, no doubt, attributable to the absolute subjection of the sex, in the aboriginal state of the Tribes. Ii 'nost of the young people, of both sexes, but in a more marked degree among the females, I found a great diffidence and shyness, unac- companied, however, by a particle of that suUenness of mood sometimes observable in persons whom it is difficult to draw out. I must not be under? iiood to mean, that, in all these pleasing pictures, the old Adam does not any where lurk in disguise, or to express an unqualified hope that, among those who voluntarily re-enrolled themselves as soldiers of the cross, there will not be instances of mortifying inconsistency, per- haps of unhappy defection : the Indians have strong passions, and are liable to be 62 , thrown into circumstances unfavourable to the maintenance of holiness ; but, allow- ing for the necessary intermixture of tares with the wheat, I believe that the Con- gregations of the Church at the Red River may be called exemplary, and that the Church has taken root in the place with the fairest auguries of a continuance and increase of blessed fruits of a practical kind. li Ordinations. 2. With reference to the Ordinations, it was no small satisfaction to be enabled, upon the spot, to add one to the number of la- bourers in this remote corner of the vine- yard ; and subseouently, during my stay, to admit to the grade of Priesthood, both him and another whom it so happened that I had myself ordained Deacon, in Canada, rather more than three years before. These gentlemen were, of course, duly examined, and their testimonials were presented to me, made out in due form. Mr. Mc Allum, who was to be appointed Assistant Chaplain 63 to the Company, with the understanding that he should succeed to the appointment of Chaplain, had also a full recommendation from Governor Sir George Simpson. His 8i Quia was read on St. Peter's day, the only opportunity which was afforded for it, upon occasion of divine service held in the Middle Church, in the presence of an ex- ceedingly good Congregation. It was in that Church that he was ordained Deacon, on Sunday the 30th of June, and that both the gentlemen were ordained Priests on the Sunday following, being my last at the Red River. I trust that both will be foi:nd " workmen that need not be ashamed, right- ly dividing the word of truth," and doing, in all respects, " the work of evangelists." It is a great point gained, that the services at the Red-River Churches should be so provided for as to admit of sparing a Cler- gyman from thence for another Station in the Territory. I long to hear of the Rev. J. Hunter's arrival, and of a favourable issue to th 3 litigation respecting Mr. Leith's bequest. Little as are these additions, i I 64 I i ii compared with the demands of the enor- mous country which lies open to evangeli- zation, it is a comfort to think of any fresh movement made — the augury, let it he devoutly hoped, of far more extended ope- rations. The Church was crowded to excess at both Ordinations : in fact, upon the second occasion, not only was the aisle and the vestibule crammed, after the occupation of every sitting in the pews ; but there were people standing on the outside at the open windows. I was assisted in the ceremony by Mr. Cockran, Mr. Smithurst, and my own Chaplain. My servant, with a gown and staff, acted as verger. Number of Services^ and Attendance of the People. We spent, altogether, seventeen days at the Red-River Colony, exclusive of the day of our departure ; and, during this so- journ, I had the satisfaction, in ministering among the Congregations, to preach to them. 65 after full and regular service in the Churches, thirteen times, besides five occasions upon which I more familiarly addressed the Can- didates for Confirmation, in the preparatory meetings which I have mentioned. My Chaplain, who assisted more or less in all the services, also preached upon three occa- sions, and I believe with very favourable effect. We thus met the people, in different bodies, though repeating our ministrations often among the same, twenty-one times in all, and they never failed to shew a for- wardness of mind to attend us. The largest Congregation at any of the public services probably amounted to full 600 persons : the smallest did not fall short of 200. The large share which I took myself in preach- ing was dictated by a desire, felt on all hands, that the people should be brought in contact as much as possible with the Episcopal functions ; which, with very few exceptions, were wholly new to them all. I 66 Reasons for not proceeding to Cumberland. Having accomplished the visit to the Red River, and finding myself fairly in the Territory, I should have proceeded, at whatever hazard of certain inconveniences, ot different kinds, which would have fol- lowed from my detention, to visit the Sta- tion of Mr. Budd, the Catechist at Cumber- land, had I found that there would be any object gained by my doing so. But the Missionaries wholly dissuaded me from the enterprise, upon the ground that the In- dians would be away, at that particular season, from the spot. I saw a long letter from Mr. Budd to Mr. Smithurst, who, as the Society are aware, periodically visits the Station. It was creditable, and inte- resting as a specimen of the performance of a pure Indian educated in the Society's Schools in the Territory. I think it is in some measure to be regretted, although it may seem but a trifle, that European sur- names have been given to the baptized In- dians. The retention of their original 67 y the rly in 3d, at ences, ve fol- e Sta- imber- )e any ut the om the he In- •ticular ; letter irho, as r visits d inte- ance of ociety's it is in )ugh it tn sur- ied In- iriginal names, with the Christian name as a prefix in each case, would have served as a con- stant mark and memento of their having been gathered, with their posterity as a consequence, into the bosom of the Church of God from a state of heathenism ; and wherever an individual is made prominent as a Clergyman, a Catechist, or a School- master, or a helper, in any way, of the cause, an increased interest would be com- municated to the report of his proceedings at home — as in the case of some Oriental converts — if he were noticed under his In- dian appellation. Rough Sketch of the Colony or Settlement of the Red River. The Colony or Settlement of the Red River — respecting the origin, formation, and early history of which it is quite super- fluous that I should say anything here be- yond a passing remark, that it affords a wonderfully striking example of good brought by the hand of God out of evil — L 2 6*8 extends upwards of fifty miles, taking its commencing point, at the Indian Church, and pursuing it to either of its terminations above the junction of the Assiniboin, or Stone River, with the stream which gives name to the Colony. From what circum- stance the stream itself derives the name is one of those points respecting which Gram- matici certant — if the investigators in this case may be so described — et adhuc sub judice lis est. It has been stated to some of the Missionaries, that the Red Lake, with which it is connected, lying within the limits of the United States, is so called from having been dyed, in a memorable battle among the Indians, with human blood, and that the name has naturally communicated itself to the River. But I have been assured, by some well-informed persons, that it is derived from a reddish earth in the higher parts of the River, which gives a tinge to the waters. There are small and obscure rivers in Canada bearing also the name of La Riviere Rouge. In that part of it which flows through the 69 Colony, the River is of a dull appearance, by no means remarkable for clearness, and partaking of the colour of common clay. The Roman-Catholic Settlement, which is perfectly distinct from the Protestant, com- mences just at the point where the two rivers meet, and runs up each of them for a considerable distance. The country is all level, forming, in fact, the commencement of the Prairies ; but it was, in part at least, well wooded upon the banks of the river when the Settlement was formed.* In passing down by water from the Forts to the Indian Settlement, you find it still over-hung in places by well-grown and handsome trees, principally elms, springing from rich green banks, fringed by a full and rounded foliage of shrubs, and these garnished by the intermixture, in vast pro- * A very fine grove of oaks is remembered upon a now naked point, at the mouth of the Assiniboin, the site of what is called the Old Fort, near the modem stnictiires which have supplied its place. ."Sugar-maples were also known in the neighbourhood. i;, 70 fusion, of wild roses in bloom, when we saw them. There is an equal profusion of large yellow specimens of the Lady's Slipper — Gypripedium flavescens — scattered over the even surface of the plain above and below the Lower Fort, and in the same neighbour- hood there are other wild flowers, which make a considerable show. This part of the plain is checquered by a small growth of trees and bushes : higher up, as you ap- proach the Upper Church, you have to your right a boundless and open expanse of level green. The country having this character, an overflow of the waters must of course, if it once take place, extend itself far and wide without check, and there was a memo- rable inundation about eighteen years ago, in which it could not certainly be said that the people drove their cattle altos visere monies; but they had recourse, both for themselves and their cattle, to whatever trifling eminence was within their reach : and, from the manner in which they still refer to this visitation, they would be sup- posed to be a race of still-surviving ante- 71 diluvians, since they speak familiarly of things which happened a year before tJie flood, or just at the time of the flood, and so forth. The open level country extends, in one direction, all the way to St. Peter's on the Missouri, and you may drive a wag- gon without impediment for hundreds of miles till you reach that place, where you fall at once into a line of American steam- ers, and have every facility of travelling onwards to any part of the United States or to Canada. This is the route by which Mr. Thomas Simpson, the unfortunate but gifted discoverer of the Arctic passage, was proceeding homeward when he met with his death — an occurrence shrouded in mys- tery and uncertainty. The Roman-Catholic Bishop of the Red River, also, has gone to Europe by that route. It is necessary, however, that the traveller should be one of a sufficiently strong and well-armed party, the vast open wilds which are to be passed being frequented by Tribes of a fierce character. 72 p. The Fowr Churches. Along the strip of Settlement which occupies, with inter aptions, the opposite sides of the river, the four English Churches are situated. The Indian Charch is about thirteen miles below the Loiw er Church at the Rapids ; this again is about six from the Middle Church ; and the Middle Church about seven from the Upper. The Indian Church is a wooden building, painted white, fifty feet or upwards in length, with a cupola over the entrance. It has square-topped windows, which, so far, give it an uneccle- siastical appearance. The Lower Church is also of wood, and of the length of fifty feet. I have already had occasion to men- tion the great insufficiency of this build- ing,* and among other evils thence aris- ing, the School-children are excluded from * This is the Church attended by much the lar- gest of any of the Congregations. It will be ob^ served that out of 846 persons confirmed at the four Churches, 342 were confirmed in this. 73 lar- e ob- the Church. They have their Sunday exer- cises in the School-house ; but this is not like the habit of " worshipping the Lord in the great congregation," and " paying their vows in the sight of them that fear Him." *ne Middle Church, which is not quite completed, and which has been built by the unaided exertions of the Congregation, is an edifice of stone, sixty feet long. The Upper Church, which is also of stone, is ten feet longer, and will accommodate 600 persons. About 400, upon one occasion, met me there. It contains some respect- able mural monuments : among others, one which was put up in memory of Mrs. Jones, wife of the gentleman who long laboured as a Missionary of the Society, and is affec- tionately remembered upon the spot. None of the Churches have any sort of architec- tural pretensions ; but the two stone Churches are creditable-looking buildings. Nothing, however, can be more unseemly, more inconvenient, or more at variance with the usages of the Church of England, than the interior arrangements of the Upper 74 and Lovor Churches, in which there is no communion-table, and no place reservcvi f«.r it; and in which, when the Conrmuni? a is administered, the elements are carried fr >m pew to pew. It wat4 very av kward lo ma- nage the Confirmations, and would have been far more so to attempt to hold aix Ordina- tion, in either of these Churches. This has been imi) i))stance of an undue, and I be- lieve a Vf;ry mis-calculating, concession to some prejudices but very partially existing; and its chief effect, as I apprehend, has been to augment and to perpetuate the diffi- culties against which it was intended to provide. A change now would be much more marked than the simple introduction of the English mode of fitting up Churches, when the whole establishment of provision for public worship was something entirely new in the place. Nevertheless, I should not at all despair, from what I saw, of over- coming, by degrees, and with judicious management, the difficulties, upon this and similar subjects, which do, in some quarters, exist ; and it is certain, that the mass of 75 the people are pre-disposed cordially to acquiesce in the recommendations of the Clergy, and the rules of the Church. In the mean time, the fullest credit must be given to the motives of those excellent per- sons who were origiiially concerned in the erection of the Churches here described, and who themselves anticipated certain ob- jections, or perhaps yielded some points to others with whom they were associated. The Middle Church has a communion-place, with rails in front of it, although it is placed awkwardly in one of the corners. The In- dian Church has the holy table in the cen- tre facing the aisle, with the pulpit at one side, and the desk at the other to corres- pond to it. The Missionaries. The labours which Mr. Cockran went through in planting, cherishing, and watch- ing over the Settlement for which this Church was built, have frequently been mentioned to me among the proofs of his I. 78 I '8 la'' 11/ unwearied devotedness and zeal. The roads at that time between the Lower Fort and the Indian Settlement were desperately bad, and often and often did he pass through them, up and down, in the hottest weather of summer, and in the height of the season for flies and musquitos, which abound in the newly-opened woods, making forced marches to fulfil the duties lying upon him in his more immediate charge, thirteen miles oiF, and at the same time to establish the Natives, as a gre^t and most happy, but in the first instance most arduous, ex- periment, in settled habitations, and in a compact civilized community, as tillers of the soil. They had every thing to learn in every way, and they learned every thirg from him. They were moulded by his in- defatigable hand, and his task was one in which nothing but prayer and faith could carry him through. His conspicuous dis- interestedness and his ready beneficence, of which many examples have been men- tioned to me by respectable Factors of the Company and other persons, were greatly thir^g 77 instrumental in advancing his success. He is one, in the fullest sense, willing to spend and to be spent. And I grieve to say that he is, in a measure, spent ; for his exertions have visibly impaired his constitution. It must, however, be a great satisfaction to his mind to see how this labour has been prospered, and to > itness how admirably the work which he put in train has been followed up by the Missionary now in charge upon the spot. Of the aspect of that charge, as now resting in the hands of Mr. Smithurst, I have before had occa- sion to speak. The Indians of all ages at- tend him every evening in the School-house for religious instruction. The Missionaries have of course them- selves informed the Society of the division of labour established in the Churches above, between Mr. Cockran and Mr. Mc Allum. The Schools. The Schools form another important fea- ture in the operations of the Society. My 1-4' 78 ) 1/ hands were too full, and my time too in- cessantly taken up, to admit of my bestow- ing upon them any very close examination. I inspected, in a general way, the School at the Indian Settlement, where I have al- ready mentioned the number of Sunday scholars ; but I could not do even this when I was at the Lower and Middle Churches. I had some conveisation, however, with the teachers, and I am fully under the impres- sion that they do justice to their charge. At the Lower Ohurch, on a Sunday after- noon, I delivcired an address, at the in- stance of Mr. (yockran, to about a hundred children of the Sunday-school, adapted to the level of their capacities. The Boarding School, one of a superior order, close to the Upper Church, having a separate department for each sex — which was originally established under the aus- pices of the Society, and is now conducted by Mr. Mc Allum, on his own account, with the help of an allowance from the Company — is really a nice establishment, and the premises attached to it have more neatness and finish than is common in young and remote settlements. The youths have a separate garden for their own amuse- ment I have had many detached opportunities of seeing good fruits produced by these dif- ferent Schools. Mr. Mc. Allum's School has fallen off in numbers ; but not more, probably, than may be accounted for by the excess of demand for education, in the early stage of its establishment, among that class of persons for whom it was designed ; many of the gentlemen of the Company, within the Territory, having been prompted to avail themselves of the opportunity for getting their Half-breed children instructed who had passed the usual age of attending School. Hospitalities experienced. During my stay at the Red River, my time, of course, was spent much with the Clergy, and I was largely indebted to their BO hospitable and brotherly attentions ; per- haps I should rather say filial, if I should describe accurately the affectionate respect and consideration which they manifested toward the Bishop who cauie to see them. I passed four or five days, in two different visits, under the roof of Mr. Smithurst. I was received in the same way by Mr. and Mrs. Cockran ; but Mr. Maning was more with them than I was, for, after leaving the Indian Settlement, it was arranged that I should myself take advantage of the hos- pitality of the gentlemen at the Forts, to make my head-quarters there, although I was also most kindly entertained and lodged for a couple of nights by Mr. and Mrs. Bird — both English persons, who have a very neat little establishment, and a nice farm, near the Middle Church — besides being a guest once or twice at the table of the Rev. A. Cowley, and that of the Rev. J. Mc AUum. With these exceptions, my time was divided between the Lower and Upper Forts. The statement of these particulars may 81 appear trivially minute. But all, even the lesser and ordinary demonstrations of kindly feeling which I met with, are valued in my recollection, and I wish to give them a place in the record of my doings at the Red River, that, so far as it may be known, they may be noticed too. may Society of the Red River. I had, at the Forts, the command of horses for my daily movements, and every accommodation afforded to me within, and every facility abroad, which I could require ; all done with the most cheerful kindness in the world. At the Lower Fort, I was the guest of Mr. and Mrs. Finlayson, who were in temporary occupation, being en route for La Chine, "where Mr. Finlayson had been appointed to the charge of the depSt He had just retired from the appointment of Governor of Assiniboia, for so the Chief Factor is styled in an instrument with the Company^s Seal attached to it — who has charge within the Red River Colony in the M V I I;' 82 Territory. He was succeeded by Mr. Christie, who had just taken possession at the ^^pper Fort, where the residence of the Governor is made. Mrs. Finlayson, a lady from England, is sister to Lady Simpson, and cousin to Sir George. Mr. and Mrs. Christie have a daughter, who had just re- turned from England, where she had passed some years in completing her education. Mr. Thom, the Recorder of the Territory, an exceedingly able man, possessing a varied range of information, and deeply engaged, latterly, in biblical studies, has apartments, with his lady and children, within the Lower Fort. There are scattered about the Settle- ment several respectable retired Factors or Traders of the Company, of whom Mr. Bird is one ; some married to European, more to Native wives. At this date, I imagine that in the majority of instances the original connexion has been that of a marriage regu- larly solemnized. One of the many bless- ings introduced by the Church Missionary Society into this region, is the correction of those irregularities which, with all their 83 Mr. 3n at f the k lady ipson, Mrs. Lst re- )assed at ion. ritory, sraried ?aged, ments, Lower ^ettle- ors or Bird ore to le that riginal regu- bless- lonary ion of their long train of mischiefs to the community, flowed from the absence of means for the celebration of matrimony. I was made ac- quainted with an old gentleman of the name of Bunn, now verging upon that period when the strength of man is " but labour and sorrow/' who was the first in the Terri- tory to set the example of marrying the In- dian woman who had lived with him as his wife. It is but justice to say that I believe many of the gentlemen, who had formed these connexions, considered themselves as solemnly bound to the women, and only waited for an opportunity to be married. They also recognized and reared the children its their own legitimate representatives. What I have here stated may give an idea of the society at the Red River. Al- though the style of the establishments at the Forts is exceedingly plain, and the extreme difficulty of transport, as well as tlie iso- lated character and remote situation of the place itself, cause a variety of articles to be dispensed with to which some of the in- mates — Mrs. Finlayson, for example — have M 2 84 been elsewhere accustomed ; yet there is far from a deficiency there to be witnessed, either of comforts or of habits of refinement. Dinners were given at both Forts, in com- pliment to myself, to which the Clergy, the Recorder, and the Physician, who has an allowance from the Company, were invited. nr The FoHs. The Forts at the Red River are better entitled to the appellation than the posts which we had seen on the route. The Lower Fort comprehends a square space, I believe, of nearly four acres within the walls ; which are built of a white-looking stone found at a particular spot in the banks of the river, and are pierced all round for small arms. At each of the four corners is a small round bastion, pierced for cannon, and surmounted by a pointed and conical roof Within the enclosure are the dwell- ing-house, the stores, workshops, and othar buildings, detached from each other. The 85 ipace, the iking anks Id for Irners non, [iiical Iwell- ithor The Upper Fort is upon the same plan ; but the area within the walls is yery much smaller. The Forts are about twenty miles apart, the road between them being a dead level the whole way. The Lower Fort is about eight miles above the Indian Church, on the opposite side of the river. The Upper stands at the confluence of the Red River and the Assiniboin, nearly facing the principal Roman Catholic Church, and the residence of the Bishop attached to it : he came to see me at the Fort, and I, of course, returned the courtesy of his visit. The warlike guise of these establishments serves rather as a demonstration of power than an actual military defence, and si>!< a their erection, which is much posterior to the junction of the North-West with the Hudson's-Bay Company, and the cons^ quent cessation of such hostilities as had before been witnessed in these wilds, I am not aware that a shot has ever been fired from their walls. There is an old block-house near the Upper Fort ; and the buildings close by, which are called the Old Fort, are 83 inhabited by a respectable family. The Forts which have been now constructed would afford the means, however, of gather- ing in the surrounding population in the event of any disturbance, or any irruption from abroad. ^ I The Peltries. I visited the stores, and snw some spe cimens of the peltries. These consist of four different kinds of bear ; about half- a-dozen kinds of fox, of which the silver is the most precious, but of which I was sur- prised to learn that some different kinds * are found in the same litter ; beaver ; mar- tin ; otter; wolf; carcajou (the wolverine or glutton, which is much in request as a * i. e. — As the kinds are denominated by colour. The red, the cross, the silver, and the black, appear to be varieties of colour only, and, as is here said, are found in the same litter. There are, besides these, the blue fox, a smaller blue, found in the Prairies, and a white. . ... , ., , 87 pendent cariole-robe in Canada) ; fisher ; lynx, or loup cervier ; musk-rat, of which only the larger specimens are taken ; besides the seal from the Pacific, which is there killed with clubs upon the rocks ; and the buffalo, of which eight or ten thousand skins, better known by the name of robes, are annually exported from Hudson's Bay. This is not a profitable branch of the trade, although the demand in the North Ameri- can Colonies, for which the robes are re- shipped in England, must be immense ; since every man within those limits, who owns a horse, has at least one buifalo-robe for his sleigh or cariole. Indians have been known in possession of white buffalo skins ; but these are like the black swan of old, and, in the particular instance men- tioned to me, the owner refused to part with it for any price, saying that he had given a first-rate horse for it, and that it was a great medicine (charm). An inferior kind of ermine, which I suppose to be the stoat * was formerly one of the exports ; * The stoat and the ermine, I believe, are the 88 , but this has been discarded as unprofitable, the last consignments not having produced more than two-pence per dozen. I believe I stated, in my last letter, that four kinds of wild swan are found within the Terri- tory ; but I spoke from memory, and my notes mention only three, the largest of which has a black, while the others have red bills. The skins are exported on ac- count of the down. The skin of the musk- bull, taken near the Polar Sea, is not an article of trade ; although, if the account given by Bewick be correct, it is valuable for more than one purpose. Some oth/ir Statistical Particulars. The whole population of the Red-River Settlement, according to a Census with same animal; the name of ermir> being given to it when, in snowy climates, it becomes, like the hare and the ptarmigan, white during the winter months ; but it appears to be a coarser variety which is found in the Territory. • 89 fitable, oduced believe kinds Terri- nd my [^est of 8 have on ac- musk- lot an ccount iluable •s. -River with iven to ke the winter variety which I was obligingly furnished, is 5143 : of which number 2798 are Roman Catho- lics, and 2345 are Protestants. No Pro- testant worship, except that of the Church of England, has ever been established among the people. The heads of families are 870 ; of whom 571 are Indians or B!ali-breeds, Natives of the Territory ; 152 Canadians ; 61 Orkneyinen ; 49 Scotchmen ; 22 Englishmen ; 5 Irishmen ; and 2 Swiss. Wales, Italy, Norway, Denmark, Germany, Poland, and the United States of America, have each contributed one to the list. There is also one Esquimaux Indian. There are 730 dwelling-houses ; 1219 barns or stables ; 18 windmills ; and 1 watermill. From the level character of the country, it may be conceived that there is not much facility for the operations of the latter kind of con- struction. There are 821 horses ; 749 mares ; 107 bulls ; 2207 cows ; 1580 calves; 1976 pigs ; and 3569 sheep. These par- ticulars were taken in March 1843. The soil, which is alluvial, is beyond example rich and productive, and withal so easily 90 worked, that although it does not quite come up to the description of the happy islands — reddit vhi Cererem tellus inarata quotannis — there is an instance, as I was assured, of a farm in wiich the owner, with comparatively slight labour ir; the preparatory processes, had taken a wheat- crop out of the same land ^or eighteen successive years — never changing the crop, never manuring the land, bnd never suf- fering it to lie fallow — and that the crop was abundant to the last. And with re- spect to pasture and hay, they are to be had, ad libitum, as nature gives them in the open plains. The Company dispose of their land upon liberal terms, with a front- age along the river, and I think the uni- form depth of a mile, with an understand- ing that, till further arrangements take place, another mile is at the disposal of the owner for any benefits which he can derive from it. I speak from memory. It is only a small portion of the farms, nex^: the river, that is ever seen enclosed. The people revel in abundance ; but it is all 91 for home consumption : they have no outlet, no market for their produce. The liberality of the Company is also evinced in their permitting private traders to import goods in the Company's ships, although they, the Company, have stores of their own within the Forts, in which articles of the same description are for sale. All these articles are brought across from Hudson's Bay, a distance of several hundred miles, in boats ; and these boats are drawn across the differ- ent Portages upon rollers, or, in some places, carried upon waggons. Hence, those articles which are of a heavy des- cription are charged at a price seemingly out of all proportion to that of many others, ^hich may be obtained at a moderate rate. A common grinding-stone is sold for twenty shillings sterling. The Company, who by their Charter have the privilege of issuing money, transact all their pecu- niary concerns in British sterling, which differs considerably, as is well known, from the currency received in the North American Colonies of the Crown. Their 92 ! issue of paper is in three denominatijus, the highest of which is one pound , and the three are distinguished from each other, for the convenience of the Natives, by the different colours of the ink — red, blue, and black. The boat has been now sub- stituted for the canoe upon all the lines of route on which the operations of the Company are regularly conducted, except on that which leads into Canada. The country in this direction is not of such a nature as to admit of introducing the roller cr the waggon upon the Portages. At the IUhI River, and on Lake Superior, thera nxixy be seen, in the service of the Company, small decked sailing-vessels which ply between the posts. The num- ber of bark and wooden canoes, kept for one purpose or other by the inhabitants of the Red River, \f 410. In the palmy days of the North-West Company, when the peltries, now sent home by Hudson's Bay, were taken down to be shipped at Montreal, the brigades of canoes amounted sometimes to forty in the season. The 98 nations, d , and li other, ves, by d, blue, >w sub- le lines of the except . The )f such ing the ^ortages. iperior, of the •vessels 3 num- ept for bitants palmy when idson's )ed at )unted The naTYic of brigade is still given to the two or throe loaded canoes which start yearly from La Chine for the Red River; but the voyageura occupation is almost c^one. The Buffalo Hunt Notwithstanding the want of market for their produce, it is the opinion of the Missionaries, confirmed by that of several intelligent gentlemen of the Company with whom I have conversed, that it would be far more for the advantage of the Red- River population to labour uninterruptedly upon their farms, than to pursue, as a large proportion of them do, during the sumiaer, the chace of the buffalo, with all its exciting scenes and ever-shifting alternations, which not only calls them away from their homes and their ordinary labours ; but tends to give them a disrelish for habits of steady industry. The time is remembered, when the buffalo was seen at the Red River itself ; but the herds have further and fur- ther receded, and the hunting parties are V^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 ^Ittl2£ 1.1 l.-^isa v^ •,w? Hiotographic Sciences Corporalion 4^ r<\- \ <^ <^ ^\ WnS 23 WKT MAIN STRKT WIBSTM.N.Y. 14S80 (716) 172-4503 'if fi 1 *■• ; / [1; I .■ 94 pow known to be drawn sometimes 200 miles 'from home. The Red River pours forth, as the expeditions have been described to me, about 800 hunters, with a long train of women and children in as many carts : these carts are so arranged, when they stop, as to encircle and fence in the party : if their stop is prolonged, they pitch their tents. The appearance is that of a little army, with its camp-followers ; and those who are engaged in the warfare, who are all, or alntost all, Half-breeds, are among the most fearless, active, and alert of mankind — admirably skilled as marksmen and in horsemanship, and wonderfully adroit and prompt, as well as self-possessed, in their manoeuvres, without which they would, in the mSlee, be perpetually liable to shoot one another. The powder-horn and the fire-bag, in which the shot is carried loose, are slung upon belts crossing each other upon the breast : a ball is put into the mouth, in preparation for loading, and the powder is measured in the hollow of the palm : no wadding is made use of; and 200 miles 3 forth, as 3d to me, train of 17 carts: they stop, party : if leir tents. ;tle army bose who Lre all, or the most mkind — and in roit and in their ould, in to shoot and the ed loose, h other nto the md the of the f ; and I 95 in this way they load and re-load, fire and fire again, at full speed on horseback. The object of all this preparation, and all these adventures, is not to obtain the furs, or robes — for the hair is short at this sea- son, and all the robes are brought in by Indians, who hunt the wood-bufialo in the winter : the Prairie hunters dress the hides for their own use ; and, among other pur- poses, they convert them into the covers ing of their tents ; but the prizes which prompt the e.ipedition are the meat and the tallow. Each cart brings back, upon an average, about ten carcases, reduced to the different preparations of the flesh and fat here described. The women who accompany them prepare the dried meat, which is cut in long slices from the ribs, And make the pemican ; which is meat cut from the more fleshy parts, and pounded with a mixture of tallow. By these two processes they have meat in different forms, which is preserved without being salted; but they also make large quantities of tal- low separately, which is done up in bags of '^^-jmmm 96 \H f closing have to h I have ; for there d, I have produced seen and " — things me," and or feeble 3 done by terests of iast stand )y having J Servant, lEAL. LETTER III. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE INDIAN POPULATION OF THE FUR COUNTRY, THEIR MORAL AND GENERAL CONDITION, AND THEIR SUPERSTITIONS ; WITH AN APPEAL TO THE RELIGIOUS SYMPATHIES OF GREAT BRITAIN ON THEIR BEHALF. Parting at the Indian Settlement — Indian Work and Drawings. Qu^ec, Dec. 16, 1844. Rev. AND Dear Sir, My labours being brought to a close at the Red River, I prepared, on the 10th of July, to embwk with my party in the canoes, and took a final leave of my friends. The kind addresses which I separately received from my brethren of the Clergy, from the Protestant inhabitants generally, and from the Congregation of the Indian Church, . ft' ■t , I f i 102 respecting which last it is pleasing to know that it was a spontaneous act, unsug- gested and unaided, was communicated to the Society in my Letter to you of the 27th of August, announcing my return to Quebec. The three Clergymen from above had come down to Mr. Smithurst's to bid me and my Chaplain farewell ; and we parted with many mutual expressions of regard, and fervent invocations of blessing. The fore-part of the day was occupied in packing up the presents with which we had been loaded by our different friends, consisting of specimens of Indian workman- ship, or other characteristic mementos of the Territory, which were put into a large box made for the purpose, and formed no trifling addition to the amount of baggage which was to be carried across the Portages, Several Indian women were busy, up to the last moment, in finishing some trifling token of remembrance which they were anxious to put into our hands. Th^y work beautifully in bead-work, or embroidery with silk, or with the dyed hair of the 103 moose, and with dyed porcupine quills. Fire-bags, leggings, belts for the fire-bag and powder-horn, all made of cloth, moc- casins of moose-skin, mittens and gloves of the same, or other soft leather, with baskets and boxes of bark, are the most common articles upon which they employ their orna- mental skill ; and their sprigs, and other decorative devices, are executed not only with great accuracy, but often with a taste- ful efiect. The fire-bags, which are some- times of leather and trimmed with fur, are usually very richly and minutely wrought, and finished at the edge with a showy fringe. The beauty, nicety, and correctness of the fancy-work executed by the women, contrasts strangely with the extreme rude- ness of performance which I have seen when a delineation of natural or artificial objects is attempted in colours. I have in my possession a whole bufialo-robe, the inner side of which is daubed all over with representations of human figures, some of them on horse-back, fire-locks and other implements interspersed, with marks or de- 104 ' vices arbitrarily representing bodies of men in battle array, or other combinations of objects, the whole precisely resembling *^« first attempts at drawing made by a youn^ and untaught child ; a specimen of which is introduced in one of Wilkie's celebrated pictures. The gentleman — one of the Chief Factors — who made me a present of this robe, appeared to think that it was designed to exhibit a complete history of the exploits of the wearer, for these robes are thrown over the shoulders as a cloak. This speci- men was procured from one of the Black- feet Indians. Along the middle, from one end to the other, is a narrow strip of stained quill-work, with circles, at intervals, of the same material. A representation of the same sort of thing may be seen in Catlin's book. These uncouth delineations are, I apprehend, the work of the men ; but not so the quill-work. I do not know whether the Indians who are rather more in contact with the Whites, and nearer to the borders of civilization, imbibe thence a better use of the hand and eye in their copies from 105 BS of men lations of bling *^fl ' a younft : which is elebrated the Chief t of this designed e exploits 3 thrown [lis speci- le Black- Tom one f stained Is, of the of the Catlin's is are, I but not whether 1 contact borders itter use es from nature ; but along the shores of Lake Superior, and in some other parts of the route, we had observed drawings upon the face of the rocks, usually in places only accessible to very expert climbers, and this done perhaps in a spirit of pride and chal- lenge, of various domestic animals, long- necked aquatic birds, schooners, and canoes, the canoes sometimes full of men, which, at the distance from which we saw them, ap- peared to exhibit a tolerably correct outline. They are made by scraping away the incrus- tations formed upon the surface of the rock, and leaving the lighter colour underneath ; and in some places are very conspicuous objects to the eye, Departure. The last act of devotion in which we united with the Indians had been on the evening of the day before [our departure], in the School-house, after the Confirmation held in the morning in the Church. They attend Mr. Smithurst every week-day even- i'l .H 106 ing in this way, to receive religious instruc- tion of a familiar kind, in conjunction with which some prayers from the Liturgy are offered, and Psalms are sung. He never opens his Church except for full and regu- lar service. These people, with whose aged Chief and his wife I had had a special in- terview by their own desire, now gathered around us, in front of the little Parsonage, by the river-side, men, women, and chil- di^en, to bid us adieu at the moment of our embarkation. One woman, with the pecu- liar modesty of manner which I have before described, presented me, just as I was step- ping into the canoe, with a simple bark bas- ket of her own workmanship Another was present who had recently become a Convert, and had been baptized, on the evening be- fore her Confirmation, by Mr. Maning. Mr. Smithurst accompanied us down to the mouth of the river, his own boat attending to take him back. I had great cause of thankfulness in being enabled to bring away Mr. Maning without delay ; for he had met with an accident s instruc- tion with turgy are He never and regu- hose aged ipecial in- ' gathered Wsonage, and chil- jnt of our the pecu- ive before was step- bark bas- other was I Convert, ening be- ling. Mr. n to the attending is in being g without accident 107 the day before, which seemed to threaten either a most inconvenient detention, or the necessity of my leaving him to come down when the season should open again in the Spring. In stepping backward, he fell down a trap-door opening into the cellar, in the floor of one of Mr. Smithurst's rooms. The jar of this fall was very severe, and shook his whole nervous system in a manner of which the symptoms were very distressing. We had to send about twenty miles for the Medical Gentleman in the service of the Company, who at once pro- nounced that Mr. Maning would be able to travel the next day, and used measures which, by the blessing of God, were found to verify his augury. Climate of the Red River, Having spoken of the opening of the season, I will here mention that, at the Red River itself, the climate, from all that I could gather, appears not materially to differ from that of Quebec. The " sleighing" ^ h 108 appears to be of much the same duration. The cold is probably a little more severe ; for it occurs more frequently, according to the information given to me, that the mer- cury freezes in the thermometer. This has occurred at Quebec, I think about three times within the memory of living man. I do not think that at either place the power of frost has ever been known to descend much below that point, if at all.* * In a subsequent Letter, Jan. 16, 1845, the Bishop writes — In speaking of the climate at the Red River, com- paratively with that of Quebec, I have probably underrated the degree of cold experienced in winter, at the former place. Mr. Maning received infor- mation that the temperature had been known to stand there at 52* below zero by the spirit thermo- meter : and that it descended as low as 40" more often than I supposed. I have still some doubt of the former of these two statements. On this subject the Rev. J. Smithurst writes, in his Journal- January 9, 1848 — It has been intensely cold to- day. Having no spirit thermometer, I could not as' certain the exact degree of cold, but I should suppose 109 In the regions further North, some of the Fur-traders have told me, in accordance that at sunrise this mornin^ it must have been about 50" below zero. On former occasions, when I have made observations with spirit thermometers, I have invariably found that as soon as the degree of cold reached 46° below zero, the atmosphere lost that clearness which we usually have here, and appeared as if mixed with a thin blue smoke, which went on increasing in density as the cold increased. On no former occasion, with the exception of two mornings in February 1843, when a spirit thermometer which I then had stood at 52* below zero, have 1 seen the at- mosphere assume the same dense smoky appearance which it had this morning before sunrise. It was from myself that Mr. Mcning received information of the thermometer having been known to go down an low as 52** below zero, and which statement the Bishop of Montreal appears to doubt. As this morning was in appearance so like the mornings in 1843 to which I have referred above, I resolved to make the best experiment that I could for testing the degree of cold. I therefore filled a table- spoon half full of mercury, and put it about two yards outside the front door a little before sunrise. In about ten minutes it was perfectly solid, and I turned it out of the spoon, and hammered it out till it was like a piece of sheet lead. I put it again into the spoon and took it into the house, and stood by the stove with it no with the accounts of Arctic explorers, that the spirit thermometer has indicated an approach to 60** below zero, by Fahrenheit. The winds which sweep over the open and level prairie at the Red River, are described as intensely cold and cutting in severe weather. During our stay, with the inter- ruption of some hard showers, we had a delightful time : the season, however, was said to be unusually cool. On the way back it occurred, I think, only a couple of times, and that only during the height of the day, that we felt glad to raise the um- in my hand four minutes before there was any ap- pearance of its liquefying. There was a thermometer hanging on the opposite side of the room from the stove, and it stood, at the time I was making the ex- periment, at 75* above zero. As I held the frozen mercury within a foot of the stove, the temperature there must have been at least 80^ and yet I had to hold it for four minutes before a single liquid particle started from the frozen mass. I put it out again, and at 10 o'clock it was still frozen. I may therefore, I think, safely infer that the cold must have been at least 10° below the point at which mercury freezes ; so that I have very little hesitation in saying that the cold of this morning was 50" below zero. Ui V that ;ed an enheit. in and icribed severe inter- had a ir, was le way uple of ight of le um- any ap- nometer rom the the ex- le frozen perature had to particle ain, and refore, I been at freezes ; that the 111 brella to shade ourselves from the sun glar- ing on the water. I gave, in my first Letter, an account of what was most remarkable on the route, both up and down ; but I may add here one or two circumstances which occurred upon our return, and which I did not then notice. Some incidents of the Route, before omitted. We overtook, at the Rainy Lake Fort, where we passed a night, a gentleman who has been established for a great number of years far on the other side of the Rocky Mountains, and is now one of the principal Factors of the Company. He was proceeding from that remote quarter to Canada, and had under his charge a couple of youths, the sons of another Factor, whom he was to place at School. There were also passengers with him, an elderly couple, decent sort of people, and he had, in th7S part of the route, two canoes like our own. But he had other companions, 112 also, of a different cast ; and the footing upon which they were with the rest, afforded a striking evidence of the strange state of society in some parts of the Ameri- can wilderness, and might serve as a check to the romance of feeling which is fasci- nated by the adventures and varieties of a half-Indian life, and attaches the idea of comparative insipidity to the settled habits of order and civilization. Two most atrocious criminals, who had, in a state of exasperation, murdered one of the Factors, in a very savage and barbarous manner, were placed in charge of this gentleman, professedly to be brought down to Canada for trial. The crime had been committed at one of the posts established in a portion of territory belonging to Russia, and held under lease from the Government of that country, by the Company. The nearest Russian authorities, it appears, refused to have any thing to do with the case, and as it would have been of mischievous conse- quence to leave the perpetrators of this act of blood at large in the country where 1 1 1 1 ii 113 boting i rest, itrange ALineri- i check J fasci- jties of le idea settled 70 most state of Factors, nanner, tleman, Canada mitted portion A held of that nearest fused to and as conse- lof this where it occurred, matters were so managed as to send them off as prisoners to Canada. They were, however, when we saw the'tn, perfectly at liberty ; nor was there any thing, either in their deportment or in the state of relations appearing to subsist between themselves *and their companions, which could indicate the character in which they were travelling. The party left the Fort in the morning, as usual, with song ; and the two murderers, with all the nonchcdomce in the world, occupied their seats and handled their paddles, without any dis- tinction, as part of vhe crew, and joined in the cheerful chorus with which they started, nearly in company with ourselves^ One of them was a French Canadian ; the other, an Iroquois Indian. There is an act of the British Parliament which con- fers criminal jurisdiction over the Hudson's- Bay Territory upon the Canadian Courts of Justice ; but this crime having been committed in Russian Territory, it must probably have been sufficiently understood, perhaps by all parties, that these Courts 114 could not be competent to try it. The men, in any case, could easily escape into the Udited Staces upon reaching the Saut Sainte Marie. I met one of them, however, after my return, walking quietly and composedly through the village street of La Chine. Acts of violence committed upon the persons of the Factors or Traders of the Company must, I apprehend, be of ex- ceedingly rare occurrence. As far as I had opportunities of knowing, the general system pursued at the Forts, with reference to the treatment of the people employed, is such as to gain their attachment. And the In- dian hangers-on, in seasons of want, draw largely upon the charity of these establish- ments. Kindness, united with firmness and decision, appears to be the secret of govern- ing mankind throughout the world, ill as it is understood in too large a portion of it. But where the spirit of Christian love, and a conscientious adherence to principle, prevail, there the qualities before mentioned appear under a sanctified as- pect ; and it is then that they effectually 115 to the Sainte ', after »0Bedly le. on the of the of ex- s I had , system ► to the is such the In- t, draw ablish- less and rovern- brld, ill portion iristian fence to s before fied as- ectually promote the happiness and well-being of a community. " Blessed are they who sow beside all waters" the seeds of such heavenly improvement in this world of sin and strife ! In descending the Ottawa, our guide, with more than half the crew, were, upon one occasion, in most imminent peril of their lives, and had a truly merciful deliver- ance. It was at one of the spots where slides are in process of construction by the Government, under a considerable grant of money from the Provincial Parliament, for the passage of timber. We had left the canoe, and, with part of the crew, had betaken ourselves for the night to a log- building put up by some Irish people em- ployed about the slide, and situated at some distance. The canoe was to come round to lis in the morning, having first a bad Rapid to shoot. The guide was perfectly at home in all the Rapids ; but the slide, which had been constructed since we passed up, had forced the waters into new courses, and he was consequently at a fault. They 2 116 , were whirled in the arms of danger to seeming death : they were rapidly filling with water : the men were alarmed, and one cried this thing, and another that, their presence of mind beginning to forsake them all, except the guide. ^^ Nagez" said ho, in a tone of stern command ; " nagez : ne parlez pas." They obeyed : made a last desperate effort with their paddles, and g^ned a sort of little recess where the waters were comparatively quiet. As soon as they got safe on shore, they all fell upon their knees and performed their devotions — an example to better instructed persons, and professors of a more enlightened system of faith. We were detained several hours for the repair of the canoe, and for drying the articles of baggage which had been left in it. In the course of the downward voyage, we lost two half days in mending our frail vessel. iir Return to La Chine. We reached La Chine toward the close of a fine day, on the 14th of August, and came in with song. The sound of the voices is cheerful, and gives life to the strokes of the paddle, urging the canoe with a rushing sound through the wator, on which the old Norman airs of the voyageurs float, like the chimes of Church bells. But far other song* had I cause at the close of this journey to raise in my heart, even a song * The songs are not profane or licentious — ^that* of course, would not have been suffered, even if there had been, which I had no reason whatever to suppose, any habit or disposition of the kind in the singers; but they are light and nonsensical, and sometimes partake of a convivial character. The words, from the manner of singing them, are very imperfectly caught ; and, in fact, many of the men themselves seem to catch them from the leader as mere sounds without a meaning, slurring the words together, without attaching to them any definite ideas. The refrain^ as in our familiar and childish songs, is often pure nonsense. •d 118 ^ of thanksgiving unto my God, after having been permitted to visit those remote esta- blishments of the Church — to comfort the hearts of those faithful Missionaries — to dispense ministrations urgently needed, for which no provision exists within reach — and, may I dare to hope it, to give an im- pulse to endeavours which will result in something effectual for the permanent sup- ply of these spiritual wants. To this subject I shall speedily return. I parted at La Chine with Mr. Maning, who, by the way, was once an aspirant to the service of the Ouurch Missionary Society, and was known to the gentlenen presiding over their Institution at Islington ; but, with several other young men, I believe, about the same time, found the door not opening to him as he expected, and ultimately came out to Canada, where he entered ^jv^. service of the Society for ihe Propagation r*^ 'le Gospel, in which he has been a very active and labourious itinerant Missionary, often " enduring hardship as a good soldier of Jov'i'US Christ" He went with me as a 119 having te esta- brt the ies — to led, for •each — an im- sult in nt sup- subject laning, rant to Jociety, esiding it, with about pening Y came service '^ le active , often iier of i as a volunteer, his own daties having been pro- vided for in his absence. ftidia/n Population^ and Extent of Field for Missionary Exertion. I come now to consider the Territo y, and the whole tracts of country traversed by the Company in their operations, ann with in view, n ocular irours to rom the h when le parti- by the it infor- familiar 143 with Indian life, or Indians who have be- come Christians. There are some of the Clergy who are distinctly persuaded of a direct diabolical agency, preternaturally manifested, in the performances of the conjurors : and cer- tainly there are some startling appearances connected with them ; particularly in what takes place when the conjuror gets into his lodge, and in some parts of the ex- perience of conjurors who have since be- come Christians. Nor can it be doubted for one moment that these, and all similar delusions, are fostered and promoted by the " father of lies." In my own judgment, however, so far as that may be worth stat- ing, the marvellous appearances which stagger the mind may be resolvable into mere sleight of hand, of which the effects, in their common exhibitions for money in Europe, are often perfectly wonderful and unaccountable till explained ; and the im- pressions existing in the minds of the quondam conjurors may be traced, as I have hinted before, to a strongly-excited 144 imagination acted upon by several conspir- ing causes, and creating its visions, to itself with all the force of reality, as minds over- wrought by ghost stories will make spectral appearances out of natural objects. I have always been slow to believe in the super- natural displays of infernal agency, apart from the contemporary displays of miracu- lous power from above. When one is per- mitted, I am disposed to think that the other is to be looked for. That, in very many instances, the per- formances of the sorcerers are mere jug- gling cheats, is matter beyond dispute ; and a remarkable example of this nature was related to me by a gentleman to whom I have already owned myself indebted for much information. He was present when one of these fellows pretended to conjure back, and to produce to view, bullets which he had told some of the Indians to throw, with all their might, into the river. He was either naked, or stripped for the pur- pose, and his very hair was searched in order to ascertain that he had no bullets 145 ispir- itself over- ectral [ have super- apart liracu- is per- lat the he per- re jug- ;e ; and xe "waa whom ►ted for Lt when conjure ,s which throw, er. He ihe pur- shed in bullets concealed in it. The Factor observed, how- ever^that, in executing his various move- ments and gesticulations to operate the charm, he passed his hands over his fac«^, and was convinced that, by a piece of well- concealed dexterity, he took the bullets from his mouth ; and the Factor privately desired one of the other Indians, when the exhibition was about to be repeated, to make a little notch in his bullet by >.' :h it could be recognised. The bullet ^^oduced by the conjuror was, of course, without the mark, and the cheat was de- tected. Concluding Appeal to Britain for the Us- tahlishment of a Bishop of our Church in the Territory. The second and third questions which I have proposed above, relating to the duty which we owe to the Indians, and the power which we have to perform it, may now be considered together. It would surely be a happy consumma- 146 .. , tion to see these juggling fiends no more / elieved ; to see these perverted minds disabused, which are capable of better and nobler things , to see these deceptions, ;ie- lusions, and abominations, swept away ; to see these sottish and mischievous practices, with all their accompaniments of moral debasement, and of social and domestic degradation, displaced by the observances of Christianity and the habits of Christian men — the prayers, the praises, the teaching, the Sacraments, of the Church of the living God ; the light of His blessed Word ; the lessons of His heavenly love ; the purifying efficacy of His holy truth ; the practical fruits of Hh being made known in Christ to fallen, bewildered, and ruined man. The Bible warns us of the tendency, in nature, to superstitious mummeries and dark forbidden arts, and of their utter offensive- ness in the sight of God — the pre- disposition, on the one side, to entertain the whole brood, who are described in our transla- tion under the names of wizards, witches, magicians, necromancers, soothsayers, sor- 147 more ainds ir and 8, ;ie- ,y: to ctices, moral ►mestic rvances irlstian saching, e living rd ; the lurifying Tactical Christ d man. ency, in nddark ffensive- position, e whole transla- witches, ers, sor- cerers,, diviners, astioiogers, seekers oi en- chantments, dealers with familiar spirits, and practisers of curious arts ; and the ready avidity of all these, on the other side, to profit by that corrupt credulousness, to which, in fact, they owe their existence. The Bible says, " How beautiful upon the mountains are the feet of him that bringeth good tidings, that publisheth peace and salvation." Well may we apply, in both instances, the language of that blessed Book to the regions here under our review -^a review pregnant with instructive les- sons of duty toward the poor Indiar, whose country we have occupied, and replete with unanswerable proof, although exhibited as yet upon a confined scale, of his capacity to benefit by what we can do for him. / have got life, is what he may be taught to say in a better sense than when he utters it, under the tuition of a conjuror, in biting fat out of a bladder : he may learn to say it with a happy reference to Him, who came that we ** might have life, and might have it more abundantly ; " and of Q 2 148 V whom it is emphatically declared, that ' '^ Him was life^ and the life was the / ^^ftl of men." / have got the life of my enemy y is what the Indian may be taught to repudiate as a sentiment befitting a human heart — he can learn to " love his enemies," and instead of asking the life of his ene- mies, to ask an understanding heart to discern between good and evil. Here is a country open to evangelization — a country, to borrow the language of the Missionaries, who have been sent to labour in it, larger than Russia — and how trifling is the begin- ning which has been made in the work ; yet how encouraging the effect of that beginning as an incitement to enlarge, by God's blessing, the borders of the Churches. Is ,, then, not to be evangelized ? And if it is to be, who is to evaiigelize it ? To what country is it an appendage ? To what power does it belong? To what Church does it address the call, " Come over, and help us ? " The country is an appendage to Britain, to Christian Britain, to the first Empire upon earth ; with a Christian Go- 149 that J the )f my 5ht to uman mies, 3 ene- art to e is a mntry, onariea. , larger ^ begin- work ; )f that irge, by lurches. And if It? To To what Church l^er, and pendage the first tian Go- vernment ; with a great Church Establish- ment ; with institutions, laws, and customs connecting all her proceedings with the name of religion ; with immense, inexhaust- ible resources ; with unequalled means and facilities of influence ; with responsi- bilities before the God who rules over kingdoms, exactly proportioned to all the distinctions which are here enumerated. Shall it be said, that it ■" not in the power of such a country either to supply her own people in her own Colonies with spiritual succour, or — which is to our present pur- pose — to meet the demands actually pre- senting themselves in her Dependencies, for blessing the savage with the Gospel ? What is the meanir g of her prayer, offijred all over the world when her people pray, " that God would be pleased to make His ways known to all sorts and conditions of men, His saving health unto all nations " — if, in a country such as I am here speaking of, she can make no more effort, than, at this period of her occupation, to provide some- thing less than half-a-dozen Clergymen, J 50 and these without any Bishop to preside over them ? Great efforts have been made by the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel for the Colonists — great efforts by the Church Missionary Society for Heathen lands ; but what, after all, are the labours of both Societies together, considered as the act of Great Britain ? It is called much, if a religious Society of the National Church in that country, having vast and various objects to accomplish in many regions for the highest interests of man, can raise •f'l 00,000 a year. Things are then said to prosper and flourish ; but are there not single individuals in England who have the double and the treble of this income ? And what would be found the aggregate, if calculated, of all the incomes amounting to or exceeding d£*5000 a year ? Let it then be hoped that the Church Missionary Society will not be left without the means of energetically and extensively en- larging its operations in this most interest- ing and promising field ; and that all other parties concerned will efficiently take their 151 share in the same object. I am as much convinced that it is the duty of the English Government to plant and perpetuate the Church according to her full organization, and to provide standing institutions for training a local body of Clergy, in the distant dominions of the Empire, as that it is the duty of a father to see to the religious interests of his family ; and whatever may be the issue of the Oregon boundary ques- tion, there is a large accountability of this kind in the region for which I am pleading. There is not one Clergyman of the Church of England on the further side of the Rocky Motmtains. The Hudson's-Bay Company did at one time maintain a Chaplain at Fort Vancouver — they have ceased to do so. Within their own proper Territories they have owe, namely at the Red River : in Hudson's Bay itself there is none. If I may judge from the kindness shown person- ally to myself, the facilities given t'^ my operations, and the respect paid to my office, by all the gentlemen representing the Campany's interests, with whom I had to 152 ^ do, that body must be presumed well-affected to the cause ; and that its several proceed- ings are conducted on a liberal scale, I have had some occasion to notice. I hope that I may without impropriety suggest that the Company — an English Company, whose seat is in London — should be solicited to take some part, and to assume some share, of the burthen in establishing a Bishopric within its own Territories. At least, that they would countenance the undertaking, and go hand-in-hand with the parties en- gaged in it. They are Lords Paramount there : * they can make any laws, not repugnant to the Laws of England ; issue * I have seen a printed copy ot the Charter, and, if my memory serves me, the Territory is held of the Crown by the tenure that the Sovereign, in case of visiting iV, may demand an elk and two black beavers. In the strict sense of the word, the Sovereign is the Lord Paramount — " since none seemeth simply to be Jiord Paramount, but only the King." Minshew*8 Guide into the Tongues, 1627, ^■' <■ s». 153 fected oceed- lale, I ; hope Bt that whose ted to share, jhopric b, that taking, ies en- imount vs, not issue Charter, ^ IS held )vereign, and two ord, the ce none )ut only 'ongues, their own money ; appoint their own public Functionaries fur the administration of the Territory ; and raise, if they see necessary, a Military Force. What they have done for the Recorder of the Red River would, in my judgment, with certain aids given to him in travelling, suffice of itself for the mainten- ance of a Bishop, whose Diocese should com- prise the country East of the Rocky Moun- tains. This is now the thing to begin with : a great deal more will follow of itself. The Church Missionary Society, and the Institu- tion formed expressly for the establishment of Bishoprics in the Colonies, would help forward this object in different ways. Spe- cial benefactors may be raised up, when an interest is once excited by the appeal, perhaps within the number persons who are or have been connected with the Com- pany's interests. Already a gentleman — the late Mr. Leith — who was a resident Factor in the Territory, has bequeathed the sum of 0^10,000, as yet, I believe, in litigation, toward the propagation of the Gospel in the scene of his former pursuits and occupa- 154 tions ; with the interest arising from which sum, it is intended, if I am correctly in- formed, to establish a Mission and a School in Cumberland. It is the rule of the Company's posts that the Factor or Trader in charge, when there is no Clergyman, should read the Church Service on Sun- days to the persons who can be gathered to hear it. They have forwarded the erection and establishment of Churches at the Red River. Nothing, perhaps, has been want- ing to engage them in more effectually promoting the advancement of religion under the same auspices, but the impulse only recently given either to public autho- rities, or to the community at large, in the work of extending the Church. Their own temporal interests would be favourably affected by whatever they do in this way : the whole social condition of the Territory would be improved, and the way would be prepared for changes which must ultimately come. There are large tracts of country in which the diminution of the furs is already very sensibly, and by the poor 155 Indians severely, felt. The day will arrive when the example of the Red-River Settle- ment must be followed in other portions of the Territory ; and, if I belonged to the Company, I should say that the sooner it comes, the better. Those vast regions, com- prehending here and there tracts fiisrourable for cultivation, cannot be doomed to be for ever tenanted only by wild beasts, an! savages as wild : their resources of another kind must be turned to account ; and in t^ '^ mean time, there is little fear that aiy effects resulting directly or indirectly from the exertions of the Church will prema- turely accelerate the desertion of the hunts- man's craft : that will be a long and gradual process, accomplished by little and little, rather behind than in advance of the cir- cumstances which demand it. Ai- aU events, the religious melioration of a country will always bring a good return to its Lords : and nothing will ever be Joat by consulting the honour, and furthering the cause on earth, of Him who has all in His omnipo- tent hands. 156 I may seem here to have made some ob- servations which partake of presumption, as proceeding from a person of such limited experience in the Territory as myself. But the subject has taken a deep hold upon my convictions, as well as upon my heart. I feel, with an indescribable force, the neces- sity of establishing a Bishop in those Terri- tories. Perhaps I need not disclaim such an idea as that all the virtue of the Gospel is centred in the Episcopate, because I hap- pen to hold that thorny office myself ; but it is the Episcopal Church of England which is specially, distinctly, and loudly called to occupy that open field — it is the Episcopal Church of England which took the lead, and gave the impulse to other parties, in whatever has been yet done, of any note, for planting and extending any of the forms of Christianity in that land — it is the Epis- copal Church of England, its interests being represented upon the spot by the Church Missionary Society, which has been con- spicuously successful, by the fruits of its Schools and Missions, in diffusing blessings 157 among the people ; and an Episcopal Church without a Bishop is an anomaly upon the face of it — a contradiction in terms : it is like a monarchy without a King. A Bishop is necessary even for the existing establish- ment of Clergy, and the existing Congrega- tions ; who, in their extreme remoteness and utter severance from all the rest of the world, afford a sort of revived exhibition of the ancient sect of the acephalif against their own wills. A Clergy without super- intendence — a people who love the Church,* * The facts which I have detailed in may second Letter afford abundant evidence of this; and it might be confirmed from the more remote Stations, which I have not seen. In the Protest- ant division of the Eed-Eiver Settlement itself, the continued accession of Europeans being the merest trifle in the world, and the few original European Settlers being destined, in the course of nature, soon to disappear from the scene, it may be said that the whole population will shortly be composed of persons trained exclusively in the Churcli of England — a happy spectacle of religious unity. Never, never may it be broken in upon ! 158 without the means of Confirmation — Churches unconsecrated — the uniform and pervading influence of resident authority in matters Ecclesiastical unknown — Ordina- tion upon the spot impossible, though sub- jects for it should be found, and the need for their services should be urgent — the nearest Bishop probably two thousand miles off, and the intervening country a " waste howling wilderness,'' and he under a disa- bility, without special commission from home, to act for the Territory in this behalf — none to advise the Clergy in their per- plexities, to strengthen their hands in sea- sons of difficulty, to relieve them of painful exercises of discretion in matters of local necessity or expediency, to comfort and en- courage them in trouble — none to conduct measures of improvement with authority and weight on the part of the Church, in concert with the Society at home, or with the Functionaries of the Company upon the spot — no common point of reference to which Clergy and people can look with confidence alike — no apex where the loose 159 pieces, as it were, of the Church converge and are bound together in one. What a difference would the appointment of this one individual, the local establishment of this single office, produce in the whole aspect and prosperity of the Church ! What can be more mortifying to our Clergy, more dis- couraging to our people, than to see, in the adjoining Roman-Catholic Settlement, the Church of Rome giving full efficiency to her Ecclesiastical arrangements by the es- tablishment of a Bishop of French origin, and to know that a second has been estab- lished in Columbia,* while the Church of the Sovereign and of the Empire remains yet among them in a defective and mutilated form — and that, although she has sufficiently proved her perfect adaptation to the peculiar task required in the Territory, and there is reason to believe that even now there are • * His residence, I believe, is within the limits of the United States ; but his jurisdiction is considered to cross the Line. 160 more Indian hearts prepared to receive the Gospel from, her hands. The Obirch, in the early days of Chris- tianity, -was planted in new regions by seat- ing, at a central point, the Bishop with his Cathedral and his College of Presbyters, who ranged the country here and there under his direction.* And this, or the nearest approach tvo this of which the times are susceptible, is what is wanted now. It is wanted in Prince Rupert's land. The * It would be very desirable, I think, to train some of the Natives for the Ministry ; and to require it of some of the English Missionaries to learn In- dian languages. But, upon the whole, although the mixture would be good, it is found that the Euro- pean Clergyman has the most influence, and that the prophet who is in his own country is less honoured. And Mr. Gockran is a strong advocate for bringing the Indians as speedily as possible to the use of the English language, and stimulating them to the acquisition by some bars left in their way till they make it. He thinks this is the surest way to anglify them in their sentiments also. 161 J the Ihris- seat- hhis jrters, there r the times If. It The to train require amln- •ugh the Euro- tid that is less dvocate sible to uulating in tbeir is the ats also. effect of my own flying visit, and imperfect ministrations, sufficiently demonstrates the existence of the want. Most cheerfully, most gladly, would I repeat the journey, under the same arrangement, every four or five years, if that would serve the purpose, so long as I may be spared in health and strength, and provided I could afibrd to steal the time from the yearly increasing duties of my own charge. But the fact is, that the fruits of such a visit as mine, in- stead of sufficing for the exigencies which exist, serve rather to set in strong relief ilie real character of those exigencies as de- manding, imperiously, an established pro- vision for the exercise of the Episcopal functions upon the spot. And indeed, by the time at which another visit might be paid by myself, the Missions may be found so far to have extended themselves, that it would be impossible to accomplish the jour- ney, and to return, within the season open for travelling. But shall it be supposed that things are to be left for such a shift ? Is it actually come to this, that the Church m I i .'-^.'^ 162 of Rome can establish two Bishopiici hi ground wliich ought specially to lo taken up by the Church of England, and t]idt ihe Church of England cannot establish one? I am not prtiposing any interference here with what the Church of Rome has pO;?i- tively in her hands, nor any control < f hf3r zeal by measures of intolerance : there is ahuu dance of work for the Church of Eng- . Ifcuj d to do without anything like this, and they are surely better blessings that she would dispense. We cannot think with complacency, if we love the truth of God, of the extension of Romanism instead of Scriptural religion ; but it is of the plain duties and the plain wants of the Church of England that I am speaking, indepen- dently of all other considerations, and as they exist in themselves. And cannot means be found to enable her for the dis- charge of these duties, and to supply these wants within her bosom ; or, if means are provided, cannot men be found to use them ? Forbid the thought ! I feel confident that, if that were my business, I could find the 163 HI man, and a fitting man, myself. The branch of our Episcopal Church which subsists in foreign America has consecrated a Bishop for China, where we had carried war — a necessary war, it may be granted, and one ordained, in tl}e providence of God, to break down the barriers of ages, and open the way for the introduction of blessings ; but war was what we carried there— and if America can now carry, to the extreme point of the globe, the Church in her completeness of form, can it be believed, can it be endured, that England should leave her own Depen- dencies unsupplied ? I am well aware that whatever other effect may be produced by these poor Appeals of mine — which, such as they are, I have made some sacrifices and some forced efforts, in the midst of the pressure of other duties, to prepare— they will, if known at all abroad, stimulate other parties to pre-occupy as much as may be possible of the ground. It is not in a spirit of rivalry, or from notions of competition with them, that I desire to see our own Church doing her part. But let her do her R 2 164 own duty, and commit the issue to God above. I cannot, for one, withhold the ex- pression of my feelings in the cause. While I have been "musing"' of these things, " my heart was hot within me : the fire kindled, and I have spoken with my tongue." And I may speak, if so permitted, yet again, though in a different way. It is for others to carry the work into effect — to de- jliberate, to plan, and to execute. But a move should be made at once — an earnest, a determinea move, with the eye of faith turned up to God, the heart lifted in the fervency of prayer, and the hand put to the work without looking back. I am, Reverend Sir, Your very faithful Servant, G. J. Montreal. iv "^ 165 ADDRESS TO THE BISHOP FROM THE CHRISTIAN INDIANS AT THE INDiAN SETTLEMENT. » To our Chief Praying Father from Mont- real — We, the Cree and Ogibwa Indians, Members of the Church of Erigland, wish to say a few words to ou. Chief Praying Father. We thank you, Father, for having come this long way to visit us. Our Praying Father* told us that you intended to come two years since ; but that you were taken very sick, and could not. Our hearts are very glad that you have come at last, and we thank God for sending you. We shall, with the assistance of the Holy Spirit, try to do what you tell us. We thanlc the Eng- lish people in English country, across the great water, for sending us a Praying Father, and for paying a Teacher to teach our children. You see. Father, that nearly all our young people can read the Word of God. We now live very com- fortably, and we owe all this to the good people in English country. If they had not pitied us, we should have been still Heathens. We pray ♦ Mr. Smithurst. S I 16(i every day for our great Mother, The Ijady Chief, Victoria, and for her relatione,* and also for our Chief Praying Fathers, f and for our Praying Fathers. X We hope God will take you safely back to your own home ; and we pray Him to bless you for the sake of Jesus Christ our Lord. Signed, on behalf of the Indians, by me, Henry Prince, Acting for my Father Pigwys, ' Chief of the Red- River Indians. • The Royal Family. f The 13i8hops. X The Priests and Deacons. THE END. Seeley, Printer. Just Published. Svo. Price Gs. cloth. THE JUBILEE VOLUME OF THI FOR AFRICA AND THE EAST. THE VOLUME CONTAINS— Introduction, giving an account of the steps taken by the Committee preparatory to the celebration of the Jubilee, &c. Instructions of the Committee, delivered Oct. 31, 1848, to Missionaries proceeding to various parts of the heathen world. With an Address to the Missionaries by the Rev. William Jowett, MA. Sermons by the Lord Archbishop of Canterbury, the Ven. Archdeacon Dealtry, the Rev. Jhomas Dale, and the Rev. Edward Bickersteth. Jubilee Statement of the Committee, rrad (in part) at the Jubilee Meeting at Exeter Hall, conti-inga re- view of each Mission of the Society, &c &c. With Tables. Speeches, &c., at the Jubilee Meeting at Exeter Hall on Thursday, Nov. 2, 1848. Celebration of the Jubilee by various Associations of the Society, at home and abroad, and in the Missions.