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 32X 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
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 i 
 
VOYAGES 
 
 Made in the Years 1788 and 1789, 
 
 FROM 
 
 CHINA TO THE N.W. COAST of AMERICA. 
 
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 Uf'^tu^ 
 
 VOYAGE 
 
 Made in the- Years 1788 and 1789, 
 
 FROM 
 
 CHINA TO THE N.W. COAST OF AMERICA: 
 
 WITH 
 
 AN INTRODUCTORY NARRATIVE 
 
 o r 
 
 A VOYAGE 
 
 Performed in 1786, from Bengal, in the Ship Nootk*. 
 
 TO WHICH ARC AMNCXtUf 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABLE EXISTENCB 
 
 Of 
 
 A NORTH fVE ST PASSAGE. 
 
 AMD SOME ACCOUNT OF 
 THB TRADE BETWEEN THE NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA 
 AND china; AMD THB LATTER COUNTRY AND 
 < GJIEAT BRITAIN. 
 
 Bv JOHN MEARES, Esq^ 
 
 V o L I. 
 
 LONDON.- 
 
 PRINTED AT THE XogogtaptliC PtOH 
 AMD SOLD BY 
 
 J. Walter, Na 169, Piccadillt, oppohtb Old Bomb Street. 
 
 179I. 
 
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 To THK 
 
 RIGHr HON. LORD HAIVKESBURT, 
 
 PRESIDENT OF THE BOARD OF TRADE, (i<. 
 
 WHOSI COMMERCIAL ERUDITION AMD OFPtCtAI. STATION, 
 
 RENDER HIM THE BEST JUDGE, 
 
 AN'D THimrolK, 
 
 THE MOST HOKOl'RABLE PATROK* 
 
 or ALL WORKS WdlCH TEND TO PROMOTE THR INTERESTS, 
 
 AND ENLARGE THE^ BOUNDARIES OF BRITISH COMMERCE; 
 
 THIS WORK IS DEDICATED, 
 
 U-ITH THE GREATEST RESPECT, 
 
 BY HIS LORDSHIP'S MOST OBLIGED, 
 
 AND FAITHFUL HUMBLE SERVANT, 
 
 JOHN MEARES. 
 
( 
 
 k 
 
 .s»«^**»» 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 nn HE wifties of friends, — the poli- 
 '■' tical circumftances of the mo- 
 ment, — and, as I have been made to 
 believe, the public expe£tation, have 
 induced me to add the following 
 Voyages to thofe which have already 
 been publiihed, to improve the na- 
 vigation and extend the commerce of 
 the Britiih Empire. — I do not pretend 
 to be the rival, — but rather coniider 
 myfelf an humble foUpwer of thofe 
 eminent navigators whofe reputation 
 is become a part of the national fame; 
 
 b z and 
 
^ 
 
 ri 
 
 
 PREFACE, 
 
 and though I may be permitted, as 
 it were, to envy their fuperior talents 
 an4 'advantages, I mod fincerely add 
 my feeble teftimony to that merit, 
 which has ranked them among thq 
 illullrious names of my country. 
 
 Indeed I feel it a duty I owe my-» 
 felf, as well as to moderate the fan- 
 guine expe»Etation which may have 
 , arifen refpeding the hiftory of thofe 
 Voyages in which I have been en- 
 gaged, and may be faid to have con- 
 <lu6ted, to obferve, that they were 
 Voyages of Commerce, and not of 
 Discovery ; and that whatever no- 
 velty they may poflefs, or original 
 information they may beftow, arofe 
 out of, and form, as it were, an in- 
 cidental part of a commercial Under- 
 taking. 
 
 • The 
 
 r-^'-. 5 
 
 « / 
 
f R E P A C E. . « 
 
 • The veffels committed to my com- 
 mand, were fitted out in the ports 
 of the Eaft, by the commercial zeal 
 of Brltifli fubjefts in that part of the 
 globe. — It was my office, under their 
 fpirited and confidential encourage- 
 ment, to explore new regions of Trade; 
 the intereft therefore of thofe patri-p 
 otic merchants and gentlemen who 
 had entruited a very confiderable 
 property to my care and controul, 
 and the honour of gaining a fmall 
 portion of that reputation which is 
 due to thofe who promote the exten- 
 • fion of the Britifh commerce, were 
 the fole incentives to my zeal, and 
 alone fupported me undey the difK- 
 culties, and amidft the dangers I en- 
 countered in difcharging my duty. 
 When I was ftruggling with the 
 ^lorms of the Pacific Ocean, — when 
 I wfts locked up in ice, arid fufFering 
 
 the 
 
 / 
 
 -■• ■■►■^^i ■ -fcHiWi^iTapd^^i, 
 
le PREFACEi 
 
 the accumulated wretchednefs of that 
 fituation on the (hores of America,— -^ 
 or when I was engaged in advancing 
 the principal objeA of the Voyage,—* 
 and avaiUng myfelf of any accidental 
 opportunity which occurred, of ex-* 
 jploring thofe dubious coafts, I littld 
 thought it would be my future lot to 
 give the. hiftory of this part of my 
 maritime life to the world. — If I had 
 looked forward to the poffibility of 
 fuch an event, I fhould have enlarged 
 my obfervations, and been more mi* 
 nutely attentive to a variety of ob- 
 jects which were but curforily remark-* 
 ed ; and qualified myfelf, during 
 every part of my Voyages, to have 
 given them all the inteteft they were 
 capable of receiving, and all the in- 
 formation they were capable ,of pro - 
 ducing. But without endeavouring 
 to deprecate criticifm by an affefted 
 
 humility, 
 
 --• ^■■ ^aa^ 
 
 ■i n iHi I 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 ad 
 
 humility, or defying it by an unbe-^ 
 coming confidence, I ihali venture to 
 exprefs my hopes,- — that this Work 
 will be found to contain information 
 ufeful to commerce, and inflruftions 
 which future navigators may not dif- 
 dain to confider ; that the following 
 pages will afford fome entertainment 
 to men who are curious in examin- 
 ing the various modes of human life ; 
 and that there are many pafTages in 
 them which will heighten the feelings 
 of thofe who " fit and think on what 
 a failor fuffers." 
 
 / 
 
 The Memoir on the China Trade, 
 &c. mull fpeak for itfelf :— The Ob- 
 fervations I have ventured to make 
 on the pofGbility of a North Weft 
 PafTage, mufl alfo be fubmitted to the 
 Candid confideration of inveftigatincj 
 minds.— It is, however, proper to add, 
 
 that 
 
k 
 
 !>' 4 
 
 .-%» 
 
 ■^* 
 
 sa 
 
 P R £ F" A C B. 
 
 that in fupporting my opinion on 
 that fubjed:, I have had occafional re-> 
 courfe to the corroborating arguments 
 of Mr. Dalrymple, in his admirable 
 pamphlet on the Fur Trade, &c. 
 
 That every poffible attention has 
 been employed to render this Work, 
 in fome degree, worthy of the public 
 favour, will, I truft, appear to every 
 candid reader of it. — For its inaccu- 
 racies, though, I truft, they will not 
 be found to be very numerous, I muft 
 reft for excufe on the very great hade 
 in which it was neceflarily prepared 
 to meet the public impatience ;— 
 and I am difpofed to flatter myfelf 
 that the indulgence I afk will not be 
 denied me. 
 
 JOHN MEARES, 
 
 Nev» i6t 1790. 
 
 I 
 
AH 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE 
 
 or TRX 
 
 iS^OOr^^,— CAPT MEARES, 
 
 V KO M 
 
 Calcutta f to the North jVefi Coafl of America y 
 In THE Years 1786, AND 1787. 
 
 \ 
 
 IT might, perhaps, prove uniriterefting 
 to the reader were I to enter upon the 
 hiftory of this commercial expedition, — or 
 to dwell on the patriotic fpirit of many dif- 
 tinguilhed perfbns at Bengal which fupport- 
 ed it, as well as thofe honourable marks of 
 zealous friendihip and liberal confidence, 
 which accompanied its coniignment to my 
 care : — It might alfo be equally unimportant 
 to others to be informed of the oppofition it 
 received, — the arts employed to fruftrate it, 
 and the various, as well as pamful diffi- 
 
 A culties 
 
H 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 y 
 
 
 
 cultles I had to furmount in the arrange- 
 ment of it :— I (hall, therefore, proceed at 
 once to relate the principal occurrences of 
 the voyage which it occafioned. 
 
 On the 20th of January 1786, two ve(^ 
 fels were purchafed for the purpofe of this 
 expedition, which were named the Nootka^ 
 of 200 tons, and the Sea Otter, of 100 
 tons. The former was commanded by my- 
 felf, the latter by William Tipping, a lieu- 
 tenant in the Royal Navy. 
 
 By the 20th of February, they were ready 
 for fea, when two oflers were made to the 
 committee, who were appointed to arrange 
 the neceflary preparations for the voyage, on 
 the part of the general body of proprietors : 
 the one was to freight the Sea Otter to 
 Malacca with opium, which would be a 
 gain of about three thoufand rupees ; — ^The 
 committee, therefore, did not hefitate an 
 inftant in accepting it ; and the Sea Otter 
 was immediately difpatched on her voyage ; 
 From Malacca, Captain Tipping was to pro- 
 ceed to the North Weft Coaft of America, 
 and the neceflary arrangements were made 
 for our meeting there. 
 
 The 
 
 ■ •rft;v 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. Jii 
 
 *f he Other offer was to convey Mr. Burke, 
 Pay-mafter General of the King's Forces in 
 India, with his fuite, to Madras, for which 
 he propofed to pay the fum of three thou- 
 fand rupees. — This advantage was not to 
 be refufed, and accordingly I had the honour 
 of conveying him thither. 
 
 On the 2d of March, we got under fail 
 and proceeded as far as the governor's gar- 
 den, where, in the evening, we received 
 Mr. Burke and his fuite on board. 
 
 On the 1 2th of March we loft fight of 
 land, and proceeded on our voyage to Ma- 
 dras, where we arrived on the 27th, with 
 out the intervention of any occurrence wor- 
 thy of relation. — Our pafl'age was efteemed 
 extremely quick at that particular feafon of 
 the year. — After landing our paffengers and 
 procuring additional fupplies of ftores and 
 provifions, by the kind afliftance of Jof. 
 Dupree Porcher, Efq. we prepared to put to 
 lea, which we accordingly did on the 7th 
 of April, the very day that his Excellency 
 Sir Archibald Campbell arrived to take upon 
 him the government of Madras. At this 
 place we received every mark of kindnefs, 
 attention and encouragement. Nor among 
 
 Az the 
 
r 
 
 If 
 
 vi 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGif. 
 
 the many to whom we are ftill grateful for' 
 favour and for friendfhip, can we heiitate 
 to mention the names of Mr. Burke, Mr« 
 Porcher, and Mr. Boyd, as well as to ac- 
 knowledge the peculiar obligations we re- 
 ceived from his Excellency Governor Da- 
 vidfon. 
 
 It may not be improper to mention that, 
 at the time of our leaving Bengal, all kinds 
 of ftores were fo extremely fcarce, that 
 the Ihip was but barely equipped for one 
 year ; and as for provifions, we had not on 
 board fufficient for twelve months, and 
 nothing was more apparent than the im- 
 poffibility of completing a voyage of this 
 nature in fuch a flate. We had, indeed, 
 looked to Madras in fome meafure, for the 
 affiftance we received, which was to com- 
 pleat our equipment for eighteen months. 
 With refpc£t to the number of our crew we 
 were ftrongly manned, but they were chiefly 
 of a defcription that neceflity rendered ac- 
 ceptable. The whole amounted to forty Eu- 
 ropeans, including the purfer, furgeon, five 
 officers, and boatfwain, and ten lafcars 
 wliom we took in at Madras. But all our 
 exertions were fruitlefs in obtaining a car- 
 penter. 
 
 ' ■- — •-'1 
 
 'm^.mssb' 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 9 
 
 peiiter, and the want of fuch an artiznn 
 was moft feverely felt in every part of the 
 voyage. 
 
 It was the 23d of May before we arrived 
 at Malacca : — our paflage was unufually 
 tedious, and afforded time for the fcurvy to 
 make its appearance. In this early part of 
 our voyage we loft the boatfwain, who 
 was one of the beft men in the fhip, and, 
 in our fituation and circumftanccs, proved 
 an irreparable misfortune. On our arrival at 
 Malacca we were informed that Captain 
 Tipping had failed for America, having 
 compleated his bufinefs there. Here we 
 wooded, watered and took in the neceflary 
 refrelhments, not only to fupply the pro- 
 viiions already exhaufted, but to enable us 
 to give every poUible afiiftance to Captain 
 Tipping, when we (hould meet him on the 
 Coaft of America. On the 29th we put to 
 fea, after fainting the Dutch Fort with nine 
 guns, which compliment was returned with 
 an equal mark of refped. 
 
 In a very few days we efFefted our en- 
 trance uito the China Seas, and purfued our 
 courfe with a ftrong South Weft Monfoon, 
 till the 2zd of June, when the B^ihee 
 
 v^3 Iflands 
 
 11 
 
 KW»jffc*>«ni^|»»«mM3B»^tfa<** 
 
 »- i w»»wii wy '- " '' " T' 
 
 J ifc II I it tt . -i ^-^Tl S* 
 
 1\ .-^-v.-'W,. 
 
VI 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 Iflands were fcen bearing Eaft South Eaft 
 half EafV, didant nine leagues. But it was 
 the 26th before we could come to an an- 
 chor at Grafton Ifle, which we then did 
 in a fmall and pleafant bay, in fix fathoms 
 of water, and about a quarter of a mile from 
 the fhore. 
 
 This bay is furrounded by high land, 
 which is cultivated to the fummits, and 
 the plantations, &c. being divided into in- 
 clofures neatly fenced in, afford a very 
 pleafing view. A large village was fltuated 
 on a gentle eminence near the water ; fine 
 groves of trees were fancifully difperfed 
 on the fides of the mountains, while a rapid 
 rivulet glided through the valley ; the whole 
 forming a fcene of uncommon beauty.— 
 About four years before, the Spaniards had 
 taken pofTeflion of thefe Ifles, in the expect 
 tation of finding the bowels of them enrich- 
 ed with the precious metals. The governor 
 and his garrifon, &c. treated us with great 
 civility, nor did they, in the leafl, interfere 
 with our little trading communications with 
 the natives, — who appear to be a moft in- 
 ofFenfive race of people. We remained here 
 four days, during which time we obtained 
 
 5, 
 
 i 
 
 ■ ■ 
 
 ■■'*m-^>m*^^ 
 
 ■»a ;.w i M « 8 --' 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 vii 
 
 great plenty of hogs, goats, ducks, fowls, 
 yams, and fweet potatoes, in return for 
 unwrought iron. 
 
 On the ift of July wc took our leave of 
 the Ba(hee Iflands, and fteered to the North 
 £a{l, a courfe along the Japan Iflcs, but 
 without feeing any land. The charts lay 
 down ifles which we muft have gone over, 
 according to the (Ituation in which they 
 are placed. After paffing the latitude of 25** 
 North, we had one continual fog, which 
 was oftentimes fo thick, that it was impof- 
 fible to fee the length of the veflel. On the 
 I ft of Auguft, having laid to the preceding 
 night, we judged that we were near land, 
 and in the morning, at day-light, we got 
 fight of it, through the Fog Banks, when 
 we found it to confift of the Ifles of Amluc 
 and Atcha. We flood in for the former, 
 and anchored there for two days, during 
 which time we were vifited both by the 
 Ruflians and the natives. In our pafl'age to 
 Ounalafchka we were driven among five 
 iflands where dangers furrounded us on all 
 fides, and without being able to fee our way, 
 but we providentially efcaped them. It had, 
 indeed, been one continued fog ever fince 
 
 ^4 wc 
 
 
 ::^;»^,; 
 **»" 
 
viii 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 we eroded the latitude of ^^**, and from 
 that time we had not been able to make 
 more than two obfervations. We very 
 fortunately had a time piece on board, 
 which proved of the greateft utility. 
 
 The five ifles among which we had been 
 fb much embarraiTed, aredefcribedinCoxe's 
 Ruflian Difcoveries by the names of Pat 
 Sopka : — that writer alfo mentions the de- 
 flrudlion which many of the Ruflian Na- 
 vigators have found between thefe ifles and 
 Kamfchatka. They are uninhabited, and 
 feem to be nothing more than huge maifes 
 of entire rock. Two of them bear a ftrong 
 refemblance to each other, and poiTefs rather 
 a corref): form of a fugar loaf. 
 
 On the 5 th of Auguft, in the afternoon , 
 we found ourfelves furrounded by a great 
 number of canoes ; which, from the drefs 
 and manners of the people in them, we 
 were certain mud belong to fome of the 
 ifles, though we imagined ourfelves to be 
 too far to the Southward for them to come 
 off. This little fleet was engaged in the 
 bufinefs of whale fifliing, and after flop- 
 ping a fliort time to examine the vefTel, 
 which they did with every appearance of 
 
 extreme 
 
 V!'""rvW"'- 
 
 ""^^mm^ 
 
 -.r" 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. |# 
 
 extreme admiration, they left us and pad- 
 dled otf to the Northward. We now fteercd 
 a little more to the Southward, as we fup- 
 pofcd that the current had fet us to the 
 NorthwaM of our reckoning. The fog con- 
 tinued to be fo very thick, that it was im- 
 poifible to fee any object at twenty yards 
 diflance from the (hip ; — but from the num- 
 ber of canoes wc had paflcd, there was 
 every rcafon to fuppofe we were in the 
 .neighbourhood of land, which muft, in 
 gll probability, have been the ifland of 
 Amouchta. 
 
 The following night we were alarmed by 
 hearing the furge of the fea upon the 
 (hore ; — we inftantly tacked, and when we 
 had flood on about two hours, we were 
 re-alarmed with the fame noife. We tacked 
 again and as foon as it was day-light, we 
 caught a glimpfe of the land, over the 
 maft-head, which appeared to be covered 
 with fnow. But the fog again became im- 
 pervious to our fight, as it were, to cncreafe 
 the horrid fufpenfe of our fituation. During 
 four days of gloom in our minds, as well 
 as in the air, we were continually endea- 
 vouring, but in vain, to obtain a paffage, 
 
 for 
 
 • !l 
 
 r 
 
 ^**- ..•">..— 
 
Ih 
 
 B 
 
 k INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 for every way appeared to be blocked up 
 againft us. The hoarfe dafliingof the furge 
 drove us from one fide, in order to be re- 
 impelled by the fame alarming warnings 
 on the other. We had, indeed, every reafon 
 to believe that we had pafled by fome narrow 
 inlet into a gulph furrounded with fatal 
 fhores, and from which there was no return 
 but by the channel through which we enter- 
 ed. Though we were frequently within an 
 hundred yards of the rocks, foundings were 
 impracticable, and the fteepnefs of the (hore 
 rendered our anchors of no ufe. 
 
 On the fth in the morning, the fog 
 cleared away, and gave us a moft awful 
 profpeft of dangers which our happy experi- 
 ence was fcarco fufficient to convince us that 
 it was poffible to have efcaped. We now 
 faw ourfelves furrounded with land of a 
 tremendous height, which was covered two- 
 thirds down its fides with fnow ; while the 
 coaft was inaccefiible from the lofty, per- 
 pendicular rocks which formed a regular 
 wall, except where the violent beating of 
 the fea had made thofe excavations which, 
 with the rife and fall of a prodigious fwell, 
 occafioned the warning noife that proved 
 
 OUIJ; 
 
 
 fc— 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. x\ 
 
 our prcfervation. We now faw two open 
 channels, one to the Southward, througli 
 which we had been driven, and another to 
 the North Weft. Indeed if we fteered at 
 all to that point, we ftiould at once have 
 got clear of our alarming fituation : but 
 we had been all along apprehenlive of get- 
 ting to the Northward of thefe ifles, being 
 aware of the difficulty of getting again to 
 the Southward, the currents being well 
 known to take a Northerly diredion in the 
 fummer ; and then we might have been de- 
 tained an uncertain length of time, till a 
 ftrong Northerly wind arofe to drive us 
 back — the South Wefterly winds being the 
 moft generally prevalent in thele feas at this 
 period of the year. Finding it, however, 
 impoflible to go to the Southward, by the 
 channel through which we came, on ac- 
 count of the ftrength of the current, we 
 bore up, and went to the Northward, and 
 having got as far to the Eaftward as Ouna- 
 lafhka, we were fo fortunate as to meet 
 with a ftrong North wind, which enabled 
 us to get through between Unamah and 
 Onala(hka. In thefe ftraits the current 
 pould not run lefs than feven knots at 
 
 hour 
 
 [■♦ 
 
 T''^,'/» • 
 
xii 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 ■ 
 
 1 
 
 hour, which caufed a moft tremendous 
 fea. 
 
 When we got round to the South fido 
 of the ifland, a Ruffian came off to us and 
 piloted our fhip uito an harbour adjacent to 
 that in which Captain Cook refitted. 
 
 The Ruffians on thefe Ifles, came from 
 Ochotik and Kamfchatka in galleots of 
 about 50 tons burthen, having from fixty 
 to eighty men each. They heave their 
 veffels up in fome convenient place, during 
 their ftation here, which is for eight years ; 
 at the end of which time they are relieved 
 by another party. They hunt the fea-otters 
 and other animals whom nature has cloathed 
 in furs. The natives of the different diftridls 
 are alfb employed in the fame occupations, 
 and are obliged to give the fruits of their 
 toil, as a tribute to the Emprefs of Ruffia, 
 to whom this trade exclufively belongs. — 
 In return, they receive fmall quantities of 
 fnuff, of which they are immoderately fond ; 
 and, obtaining that favourite article, they 
 are content with their wretched condition, 
 from whence, as far as refpeds any exertion 
 of their own, they will never emerge.—^ 
 As to iron, or any other European commo- 
 
 i dity, 
 
 L^mtm it *^f;«%>— •■ ■ 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 Sill 
 
 dity, it is as fcarce with them» as with their 
 continental neighbours. 
 
 The houfes of the Ruffians ire conftru£t- 
 cd upon the fame principles as thofe of the 
 natives, but on a plan of larger extent. — 
 They confift of cavities dug in the earth, 
 and a ftranger might be in danger of falling 
 into them, without having the leaft fufpi- 
 cion that he was within the verge of any 
 habitation ; as the only entrance into thefe 
 fubterraneous places of refidence, is through 
 a round hole at the top of them, and by a 
 poft with fteps cut in it, as the means of de- 
 fcent. Indeed, fuch an accident happened, 
 on the firft evening of our landing, to the 
 firft officer andfurgeonof the Nootka. — On 
 their return from a Ruffian village, they 
 fuddenly difappeared through one of thefe 
 holes, and intruded themfelves, in a very 
 unexpefted manner, to an houfehold of the 
 natives. The fright on the occafion was 
 mutual; — the one hurrying out of the place 
 as faft as their fears could carry them, 
 leaving the fallen gentlemen, in expedatlon 
 that the invaded people, with whole mild 
 and amiable manners they were not then 
 acquainted, would inftantly give the alarm, 
 
 and 
 
 ♦ i V 
 
f 
 
 * ! 
 
 >i» 
 
 tiJTRODUCtORY VOYAGE. 
 
 and call their friends to revenge the inna» 
 cent invafion by murder and maflacre.— » 
 They found, however, on their return above 
 ground, that the natives had fled in extreme 
 confufion and affright to the Ruffian village* 
 The next morning, the accident was ex- 
 plained ; and a fmall prefent of tobacco 
 made the poor people ample recompence for 
 the alarm of the preceding evening. 
 
 The fides of thefe dwellings are divided 
 into copartments for the purpofe of fleeping, 
 the (kins of animals ferving them for their 
 beds ; and in the centre is the place for 
 dreffing and eating their vi(Stuals. In the 
 very cold weather, they ufe lamps inftead 
 of wood : — as there are no trees on the 
 iflands, wood muft be a very fcarce article^ 
 having no other fupply, but the accidental 
 drifts of it from the continent. Their diet 
 confifts entirely of fifli with the oil of the 
 fame for fauce. This manner of living is 
 common both to the Ruffians and the 
 natives, except that the former boil their 
 food, and the latter eat it in a raw ftate. 
 We have frequently feen them eat, or ra- 
 ther devour, the head of a cod or a halibut, 
 immediately after it was caught, with all 
 
 the 
 
 'tm'-i 
 
 jgS^- Sf^iT" 
 
 ...t«-; 
 
iNtftOiSUCtORY VOYAGE. 
 
 Hi 
 
 the figns of voracious fatisfa£lion. The 
 only vegetable thefe iflands produce is wild 
 celery, which the natives eat as it is pulled 
 out of the ground. 
 
 Though the Ruffians have been fo long 
 fettled on thele iflands, they have produced 
 no kind of cultivation whatever. They 
 have not any of the domeflic fowlQpr ani- 
 mals, except dogs; — nor had we an oppor- 
 tunity to examine whether this want of 
 comforts and conveniencies, which are of 
 fuch eafy attainment, arofe from local bat- 
 renncfs, or their own indolence. Their 
 fole dependance for food, is on the producfe 
 of the lea and the rivers, which, however, 
 afford them great abundance of excellent 
 fifli ; and, if a proper judgment may be 
 formed from the ftrong and healthy ap- 
 pearance of the natives, or the colonics, 
 they do not want a more wholefome or 
 flrengthening fuftenance. 
 
 The natives of thefe ifles, which arc 
 known by the appellation of the Fox Iflands, 
 are a ftiort and flout race of people, with 
 full round countenances, that bear no traces 
 of a favage difpofition. — ^They do not cut, 
 fcarrify, or in any manner disfigure their 
 
 ' faces, 
 
 ■ ■ t n" 
 
 ■•■■T-^ 
 
SVI 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 faces, like the natives of the continent; 
 and are, to all appearance, of an harmlefs 
 and inofFenfive chara<Sler. Jealoufy, at leaft, 
 is not among their ordinary paflions, as 
 they difcover no fymptoms of difpleafure 
 at any attentions which ftrangers may be 
 difpofed to pay to the female part of their 
 community. 
 
 The only animals on thefe iflands are foxes, 
 fome of which are black, and whofe fkins are 
 very valuable. While we lay here, we en- 
 deavoured to engage the Ruffians to trade 
 with us ; but they fet too high a value on 
 their furs to difpofe of them to us, at leaft 
 for any thing we had to give in return ; more 
 particularly as they expected to be relieved 
 the following year. The harbour we en- 
 tered is fituated about ten or twelve miles 
 from that where Captain Cook refitted, and 
 lies in the latitude of 54** 2' North ; longi- 
 tude, 193° 25' Eaft of Greenwich. 
 
 On the 20th day of Auguft, we failed from 
 Ounalaflika, in order to run down the conti- 
 nent, till we Ihould pafs the Shumagin 
 Iflands, as Captain Cook defcribes Kodiak 
 one of the Southern. Indeed, we wiflied 
 to be clear of the Rufiian fettlements, as 
 
 wc 
 
 i |i i»igi )i. <i » » i < | ' iri , ' . - ' IB iy.. '' i"-"" ■ — Wt—Aii ift H I .i i mnj i 
 
ll^tRObUCTORY VOYAOfi. 
 
 tvU 
 
 we knew nothing was to be got in the vici- 
 nity of them, before we went on the coaft. 
 
 On the 27th of Auguft, we arrived in 
 fight of the Schumagins ; and at about four 
 leagues from the (hore, a great number of 
 canoes came off to us, 'which we obferved 
 to be of the fame conftru<Slion as thofe of 
 the Fox Ifles; and that the drefs and man- " 
 ners of the people in them were the fame 
 as the natives of thofe iflands. 
 
 It appears that the Ruffians, wherever 
 they are fettled, from fome political rea- 
 fon, as we fuppofe, prohibit the natives from 
 keeping canoes of a fize to carry more than 
 one perfon. Thefe canoes are generally 
 about twelve feet in length, Iharp at each 
 end, and about twenty inches broad, taper- 
 ing to a point : their depth in the centre, • 
 where the man fits, is about twenty inches. 
 The canoes of this make extend from the 
 ftraits of the two continents along the coaft 
 as far as Cape Edgecumbe. Some of them 
 are made to carry three perfons ; but, in 
 general, not more than one or two. The * 
 frame is compofed of very thin ftrips of the 
 pine wood, fattened together with whale 
 finews, 'and is then covered with the ikin of 
 
 B the 
 
 ■ii^ii ■» ■ I *p 
 
 »>>m- mmfiir-^ 
 
XVlll 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 It. 1 
 
 the feal or fea-cow, which is previoufly rob- 
 bed of its hair. The bottom ui the ikin- 
 frock, which the natives wear, ties over the 
 hole of the canoe, where the man fits, and 
 prevents the fmalleft drop of water from 
 getting in. Thefe veffels are paddled at a 
 prodigious rate, and go out in any weather. 
 It was now the 28th of Auguft, and no 
 advantage hadyetarifen from the voyage; 
 but as we fuppofed ourfelves to be at the 
 termination of the Ruflian fettlements, and 
 had a large track of coaft to run down, we 
 expelled to have made an advantageous trade 
 before the winter fet in, which was now 
 haftily approaching. With this defign, we 
 purpofed to make one port to the Weftward 
 of Cook's River,— and, in coafting along, we 
 faw a large opening, which appeared to be 
 formed by an ifland : we accordingly fteered 
 in for it,— and, when we were in with it, 
 it appeared of very great extent, taking a 
 North Eafterly courfe. As we now thought 
 ourfelves clear of the Ruffians, we were in 
 continual expedation of being vifited by the 
 natives, and commencing the advantageous 
 part of < ur voyage ; though we are at a lofs 
 how to reconcile it, that fo large a ftrait 
 
 fliould 
 
J J 
 
 introetoctory voyage. 
 
 sis 
 
 fhould not have been obferved by Captam 
 Cook. Having continued our courfe up k^ 
 about twenty leagues, a canoe came off to 
 us from the inland fide, with three gcopje in 
 it, one of whom came on board, who pisoved 
 to be a Ruffian feaman. — He was a vej*y 
 iHtelligcnt man, and informed us that this 
 was the ifland of Kodiak, that the crews/ci5' 
 three galliots were on duty there, and thatr\ 
 there was another ifland of the fame name 
 along the coaft. 
 
 This intelligence was by no means pleaf- 
 ing, as it daflied at once all our hopes of okt^ 
 taining any trade, at any intermediate plao?, 
 between Cook's River aiid tbeSchumagin 
 Ifles. We therefore continued our paflage 
 through the ftraits, which were named Pet- 
 rie's Strait, in honour of Wm. Petrie, Efq. 
 and found it brought us out near that point 
 forming. Cook's River, and diftinguiflied by 
 the lifiir.eVflCapljDcft^lfe on Captain Cook's 
 charCi #^©hd!^ fkuitl !ire upwards of ten 
 leagues In Icjngth and about fifteen in breadth, 
 and cCfC off. a'v'ery large trad of continent 
 frcJTH the former charts. We anchored under 
 Cape Douglas, and foon after feveral canoes 
 came off to us of the River Indians. They 
 
 Bz fold 
 
 rr- 
 
 •f-3 
 
 >*• 
 
 ■.:^- 
 
 
 
itf 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 I \ 
 
 ^fO 
 
 1 I 
 
 fold us two or three otter (kins, for which 
 they received fbme pieces of unwrought 
 iron, about a pounds perhaps, for each (kin. 
 They appeared to be greatly rejoiced to fee 
 us, and offered us'every thing they had in 
 their boats as prefents. Thefe people by 
 refufing tobacco plainly proved that they 
 had no connection with the Ruffians, and 
 by frequently pronouncing the word Eng- 
 lifh, Englifh, it appeared alfo that the Noot- 
 ka was not the firft veflel of our country 
 which had been feen by them.— Indeed it 
 afterwards appeared that th: King George 
 and Queen Charlotte from London had bee;i 
 there before us. The canoes very {hortly left 
 us to go up the river in (earch of more ikins, 
 and the following day we faw two large 
 boats coming down the river, with about 
 eigfiteen men in each. They proved to be 
 Ruffians who had been up Cook's River on a 
 trading voyage ; ana each boat had a hrafs 
 field-piece with fmalf arms for each man. 
 They had left their fummer refidence which 
 is the lower iiland in Cook's River, and were 
 proceeding to their winter quarters on the 
 ifland of Kodiak. 
 
 It 
 
 LL^- 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE x^ 
 
 It was now the 20th of September, and the 
 weather extremely boifterous, fo that wc 
 determined to quit the river, where wc had 
 been detained by feveral heavy gales of wind, 
 and proceed to Prince William's Sound, and, 
 if praflicable, to winter there. On our ar- 
 rival at Snug Corner Cove, in Prince Willi- 
 am's Sound, as named by Captain Cook, the 
 weather was very violent, and during the 
 three days we lay there not a native appeared; 
 which circumftance led us to conclude, that 
 the natives had retired from the coaft, or 
 were gone to the Southward for the winter. 
 In our excurlioiis on (hore, we faw fome 
 wood which had been fre(h cut, and by an 
 edge tool; we alfo found a piece of bamboo, 
 which fully fatisfied us that fome veflelmuft 
 have very lately preceded us ; and as our ap- 
 pointed rendezvous, with our confort the 
 Sea Otter, was at this place, we very natu- 
 rally concluded that fhe had been here, and 
 was failed for China. 
 
 This was a fituation pregnant with diffi- 
 culties : — the coaft was to all appearance 
 without inhabitants, fo that if we remained 
 here during the winter, there was no prof- 
 ped of our being able to procure trade or re 
 
 B3 frefli. 
 
) 
 
 
 < \% 
 
 -I 
 
 tiU INTJIODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 frefhments. On the other hand, the bad 
 weather had fet in, with continual gales of 
 wind, accompanied with fleet and fnow ; 
 and if we quitted our prefent fituation, it 
 wafi very doubtful whether wc fliould be 
 able to make another, and therefore be ob- 
 liged to run for the Sandwich Ifles, which 
 would, in all probability, have put an end 
 to the voyage, as our feamen were be- 
 coming extremely difl'atisfied. In this fitu- 
 ation it was determined to prefer an inhof- 
 pitable winter in Prince William's Sound, 
 to all the comforts of the Sandwich Iflands, 
 from whence, it was with good rcafon 
 imagined, that it would have betn a matter 
 of great difficulty, if not wholly nnprac- 
 ticable, to perfuade the feamen to return 
 to the Coaft of America. Under thefe 
 difficulties we laboured ; but as the object 
 of the voyage and the intereft of the pro- 
 prietors were deeply concerned in fupporting 
 the hardfhips which threatened us, and 
 the mortifications we Ihould experience, we 
 refolved to bear the one and to fubmit to 
 the other. A very little refledion on the 
 limited power of a mercantile officer, ^nd the 
 want of a due fubordiiiation in a mercantile 
 
 U 
 
 •*»••*** ■ • - ' ^^trnmih t, i bJj ^ ^ , : -^ 'k^ ■ ■ , : 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xiit 
 
 (Tiip, will enable any one to believe that 
 ill remaining here, we were not at Icaft 
 tleficicnt in zeal for the intercfts of thofe 
 vho promoted and fupportcd this commer- 
 cial expedition. 
 
 On the 4th day, fcveral canoes, came ofF 
 to us, and the natives behaved in a very 
 friendly and aflable manner. They men- 
 tioned fcveral Englifh names, which ap- 
 peared to be thofe of the crew of the Sea 
 Otter.— -They alfo made us underftand that 
 a vefl'el, with two mafts, had failed from 
 thence but a few days before, and that they 
 had plenty ofikins, which they explained 
 to us, by pointing to the number of the 
 hairs of their heads. They alfo informed 
 us, after their manner, tliat if we would 
 ftay, they would kill plenty of otters for 
 us during the winter. 
 
 Being now fatisfied that the Sound was 
 inhabited, nothing but a good harbour was 
 wanting to determine us to ftay here during 
 the fevere feafon ; and the next day the 
 boats found a very commodious one, about 
 fifteen miles Eaft North Eaft, from where 
 we lay. Accordingly, on the 7th of Octo- 
 ber, the velTel was removed to the place ap- 
 
 B 4 pointed ; 
 
kxiy 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 mi 
 
 pointed ; ihe was then unrigged, and the 
 people began to work on fhorc to ere<!l a 
 log-houfe for the armourers to work in ; 
 which, from the pi'efent ftate of the veflel, 
 might alfo be uleful in containing lumber. 
 
 The natives now favoured us with their 
 daily vifits, and never failed to exert their 
 very extraordinary talents in the art of 
 thievery. They would employ fuch a flight 
 of hand in getting iron materials of any 
 kind, as is hardly to be conceived. It has 
 often been obferved, when the head of a 
 nail either in the fhip or boats flood a little 
 without the wood, that they would apply 
 their teeth in order to pull it out. Indeed, 
 if the different lofles we fuftained, and the 
 manner of them were to be related, many 
 a reader would have reafon to fufpeft that 
 this page exalted the purloining talents of 
 thefe people, at the expence of truth. 
 
 It was now the middle of Odober, and we 
 had coUefted a few (kins. The natives alfq 
 affembled in greater numbers, and became 
 fo very troublefome as to perplex us very 
 much, in regard to the manner in which we 
 fhould condu<5l ourfelves towards them. — 
 Policy and humanity both inflrufted us to 
 , avoid| 
 
 P 
 
*^f 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 avoid, if poffible, any violent corre£llves, 
 but it very often happened, that our people 
 who were employed on fhore in wooding 
 and erecting the houfe, were obliged to 
 come off to the fliip, as the natives would 
 come down from the woods behind them, 
 and endeavour to take away whatever tools 
 they had in ule. — As the veflel lay fo near 
 the place where the people were at work, 
 that we could talk to them, we did not allow 
 them fire-arms, unlefs they were accom- 
 panied with a careful officer, left an impro- 
 per ufe (hould be made of then ; and we 
 had hitherto found, that the firing a mufquet 
 from the (hip would at all times drive the 
 natives away. 
 
 On the 25th of Oftober, a large party of 
 Indians were perceived coming into the 
 creek, and as there appeared to be a greater 
 number than we had feen aflembled before, 
 we called to our people to come on board, and 
 they not coming iii>mediately, the Indians 
 got up a-breaft of the veflel, and immedi- 
 ately landed where they were at work : — 
 at the fame moment another party joined 
 them from the woods. — As the natives in 
 the canoes went on (hore in fpite of all our 
 
 iignals 
 
 jiiH. ■#^;r:iS»#^'«^J»W-^-*- 
 
zzn 
 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 fignals to prohibit them, two of our guns 
 were ordered to be pointed at them, which 
 had the defired efFed ; as they were at this 
 time endeavouring to take away the axes 
 from our people on (here. But on per- 
 ceiving the preparations we were making, 
 they cried out in their ufual manner, laule^ 
 lauli, or friend, friend, and extended wide 
 their arms as a token of amity. 
 
 Having got all our people on board, it was 
 thought to be a proper opportunity to dif- 
 perfe the natives, who were now affembled 
 in fuch conflderable numbers, by (hewing 
 them the power of our cannon, and accord- 
 ingly a twelve pound cannonade was fired 
 with grape fhot, which difplayed its efFedls 
 upon the water to their extreme aftonilh- 
 ment, and indeed threw them into fuch a 
 
 panic, 
 
 that one half of them overfet their 
 
 canoes from fright.— A three pound field 
 piece was then difcharged from the (hore, 
 with a round (hot, which grazing along 
 the furface of the water to a conflderable 
 diftance, convinced them that it was in our 
 power to throw the fhot to whatever point, 
 and in whatever dirciStion we thought pro- 
 per. While they were deliberating, as it 
 
 were. 
 
 ,( 
 
 »*«--i»a!jt5(j,,., .,<. ,^- 
 
 ■■' ■'•-••••>"-<.„ 
 
 ■^-v^tK^mtmmt^- 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 xxvu 
 
 were, in a ftate of no common apprehen- 
 fion, we made them underftand that it was 
 not our intention to do them any injury 
 while they conduded themfelves to us in 
 an honelT: and friendly manner, and that it 
 was our wifh to engage in trade with them, 
 by purchafnig their Ikins with fuch articles 
 as we had got for that propofe. Thefe ar- 
 ticles were then offered to their attention, 
 when, after repeated (houts of joy, fuch as 
 were dreffed in furs, inftantly ftripped them- 
 felves, and in return for a moderate quan- 
 tity of large fpike nails, we received fixty 
 fine fea-otter ikins. To conciliate their 
 friend (hip, the principal men among them 
 were prefented with beads of various co- 
 lours, and they promifed to bring us Ikins as 
 faft as they could procure them. 
 
 This attempt was certainly pre- meditated, 
 as thefe people never make war upon each 
 other in thofe large boats, which they em- 
 ploy folely .to carry away their old men, 
 women and children, on the approach of 
 an enemy ; and they are called by them the 
 women s' boats. They now made ufe of 
 them for the purpofe of landing a great 
 number at once, that they might be cer* 
 
 t^ia 
 
 I M 
 
 K 
 
 \ , 
 
 miiA^*m« r'^ !l mi 
 
 
 ,^ 
 
SXTIU 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOVAGE. 
 
 )./ 
 
 tain of cutting off the retreat of our work- 
 men. But though this fcheme proved abor- 
 tive, w^e had no reafon to fuppofe that they 
 would, or perhaps could refift an opportu- 
 nity of ftealing any article, of which iron 
 compofed a part, fo powerful was the 
 temptation that afl'umed the form of that 
 favourite metal. 
 
 Such, however, was the prefent appear- 
 ance of our affairs, that we defifted from 
 carrying on our operations on ftiore. We 
 therefore began to cover the veflel with fpars, 
 and clofe it in all round the fides, which 
 we got done above one half from aft, for- 
 ward ; but the falls of fnow became fo 
 frequent, and deep on the fliore, that we 
 were prevented from compleating it, which 
 was a very great inconvenience ; as the part 
 that was covered always afforded a place to 
 walk in, as well as prevented a great deal 
 of cold from ftriking through the deck. It 
 alfo formed a very fufficient fortification had 
 that been neceffary ; — as we; were boarded 
 and netted all round, ten feel above the gun 
 whale fo that we (hould have been able to 
 have defended ourfelves againft any attack 
 that could have been made upon us ; tho' 
 I the 
 
 'i-j% ^jnOfifAjMi:**' 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. xxis 
 
 the ice, which was forming all round us,, 
 gave the natives no inconfulerable advantage: 
 but,, whatever might be the inclinations of 
 our favage neighbours, the^operations of our 
 great guns had frightened them into the 
 moft amicable demeanour towards us. 
 
 On the 31ft day of October the thermo- 
 meter fell to 32, and the mornings and 
 evenings were very fliarp. Till this period, 
 we had caught a great plenty of falmon, 
 but we now found theiy were leaving the 
 fmall rivers. At two hauls of the feine in 
 a pond, between the neighbouring hills, 
 we caught as many as we could fait for the 
 wunter ufe ; and, for our daily confumption, 
 two men were difpatched every ;norning, 
 and in two hours they would bring down 
 as many as they could carry. The method 
 of taking them may appear rather ridicu- 
 lous, but it is managed by following the 
 drain of water from the pond, to where it 
 emptied itfelf into the fea, and knocking, 
 the fifli on the head with clubs, as they 
 were going up or coming down ; and as the 
 channel was not above a foot in depth, this 
 bufinefs proved good fport to the failors, as 
 well as a fourcc of luxurious provifion for the 
 
 table* 
 
 
MX 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 i 
 
 ; . 
 
 ^ 
 
 I- 
 
 ■K i 
 
 table. The days of plenty were however draw- 
 ing nigh to a conclufion. The ducks and 
 geefe which had alfo afforded us a conftant 
 fupply, were now forming into flocks and 
 paffing away to the Southward. — ^The na- 
 tives had alfo brought us occafionally fome 
 of the mountain fheep which were the only 
 laud animals we faw amongft them, and 
 we had depended for fopie affiftance at leaft 
 froni them on the article of prcvifion during 
 the winter; — inftead of which, by the 5th 
 of November, not one of the feathered tribe 
 was to be feen, nor was it poffible to go 
 into the woods, the ground being, at this 
 time, covered with at leaft five feet of loofe 
 dry fnow. — The fifti had alfo left the creeks 
 and coves, and ice began to form every 
 where around us. — The ftupendous moun- 
 tains which met our eye on every fide, 
 were now white with fnow to the very edge 
 of the water, while the natives had no other 
 means of fupport but the whale fifh and 
 blubber which they had prepared for their 
 winter provifions. — But fince the 2d of No- 
 vember, the ice, from the veffel to thelhore, 
 had been capable of bearing, and our people 
 had commenced the amufement of ikaiting 
 
 and 
 
 A 
 
 Wk^ 
 
 "•-«<: f!ja>i»»<w""**' 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 xzn 
 
 and other diverfions on it, which not only 
 afforded them confiderable recreation, but 
 contributed greatly to the prefervation of 
 their health, till the fnow became as deep 
 on the ice as it was on the (hore. 
 
 During the months of November and 
 December we all enjoyed an excellent ftate 
 of health. — ^The natives alfo continued their 
 friendly behaviour to us, except in their in- 
 corrigible difpofition to flealing, which 
 they never failed to indulge when any op- 
 portunity offered, and which the moft at- 
 tentive vigilance on our part could not 
 always prevent. The thermometer, during 
 the month of November, was from 26** to 
 28°, and in December it fell to 20", where 
 it continued the greateft part of the month. 
 
 We had now at noon but a very faint 
 and Iglimmering light, the meridian fun 
 not being higher than 6°, and that obfcured 
 from us by hills 22* high to the South- 
 ward of us. While we were thus locked 
 as it were, from the chearful light of 
 
 m 
 
 day, and the vivifying warmth of folar 
 raySj^no other comforts prefented them- 
 felves to compenfate, in any degree, for the 
 Icene of defolation which encircled us.— 
 
 While 
 
«kU INTRODUCTORY VOYAGfi. 
 
 ; 
 
 1 
 'i. 
 
 While tremendous mountains forbade al-> 
 moft a fight of the fky, and caft their nodlur- 
 nal (hadows over us in the midft of day,ihe 
 land was impenetrable from the depth of 
 fnow, fo that we were excluded from all 
 hopes of any recreation, fupport, or comfort, 
 during the winter, but what could be found 
 in the fliip and in ourfelves. — This, how- 
 ever, was only the beginning of our troubles. 
 The new year fet in with added cold, and 
 was fucceeded by fome very heavy fails of 
 fnow, which lafted till the middle of the 
 month. Our decks were now incapable of 
 refifting the intenfe freezing of the night, 
 and the lower parts of them were covered 
 an inch thick with an hoary froft, that had 
 all the appearance of fnow, notwith (landing 
 three fires were kept conftantly burning 
 twenty hours out of the twenty- four ; fo 
 that when they were firft lighted the decks 
 were all afloat. For fome time we kept 
 in the fires night and day, but the fmoke 
 which proceeded from a temporary ftove, 
 made out of one of the forges, was fo very 
 troublefome, that the people, who were now 
 falling ill, were fully convinced that this 
 continual fmoke was the caufe of their 
 
 iicknefs* 
 
 '•muttar*'- • )u iiMO'ilii i""''*«w«(M|<'#^ 
 
 ni>h<wwM*Hii<i»»>*— a y ' ■ , ' ' " ' I " J i j" 
 
 '^^^'mmam*'^ 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. s»iU 
 
 iickiiefs. After the heavy fall of fnow we 
 had twelve down with the fcurvy, and to- 
 wards the end of the rftonth four died, 
 and the number encreafed to twenty-three 
 who were confined to their beds, amongil 
 whom was the furgeon, who was extremely 
 ill. The firft officer, on finding himfelf 
 flightly afFe£ted in the breaft, a fymptom 
 which generally foreboded a fatal deter- 
 mination in a very few days, got rid of it 
 by continually chewing the young pine 
 branches, and fwallowing the juice ; but, 
 from the anpleafant tafte of this medicine, 
 few of the fick could be prevailed upon to 
 perfifl in takhig it. 
 
 At the latter end of February the diforder 
 had encreafed, and no lefs than thirty of 
 our people were fo ill, that none of them 
 had fufficient flrength to get out of their 
 hammocks : — four of them died in thecourfe 
 of the month.— Indeed, at this time, our 
 neceiTaries werefo far exhaufted, that if the 
 more violent fymptoms of the diforddr had 
 abated, there was a want of proper food &c. 
 to complete the cure. Thefe melancholy 
 circumftances were rendered more affliding 
 by the hopelefs minds of the crew; for 
 
 Vol. I. C fuch 
 
 
xnxtr 
 
 ! 
 
 if 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 fuch was the general difcouragcment ^mong 
 them, that they confidered the flighteft 
 fymptom of the diforder to be a certain pre- 
 lude to death. 
 
 ' During the months of January and Fe- 
 bruary, the thermometer continued for the 
 greater part at 1 5°, though it fometimes fell 
 to 14.°. Notwithftanding this extreme cold» 
 we were vifited as ufual by the natives, who 
 had no other c loathing but their frocks, 
 made of the fkins of fea-otters and feals, 
 though chiefly of the latter, with the fur on 
 the outfide. — But whatever prote<Sl:ion thefe 
 drefi'es gave to their bodies, their legs re- 
 mained uncovered, and without any apparent 
 inconvenience. They appeared to be as much 
 diftreifed for provifions as ourfelves, and as 
 we had feveral calks of the whale blubbar 
 which had been colledted for oil, they ufed, 
 whenever they came on board, under a pre- 
 tence that the weather was too boifterous for 
 them to engage in whale hunting, to entreat 
 a regale of this luxurious article ; which 
 was always granted to their great comfort 
 and fatisfadlioiK — In their opinion it was 
 owing to our not taking the fame delicious 
 and wholefome nourifbment, that fuch a 
 
 terribb 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 XXXV 
 
 terrible and alarming ficknefs prevailed 
 among (I us. 
 
 We were at firft very much furprifed at 
 their being informed of the death of our 
 people, and the places where we had buried 
 them. — They particularly pointed to the 
 edge of the (hore between the cracks of the 
 ice, where with confiderable labour we had 
 contrived to dig a fhallow grave for our 
 boatfwain, who, from his piping, had at- 
 tradled their particular notice and refpe<5t.— 
 We indeed at fi^ft imagined that they con- 
 trived to watch tn«fe melancholy ceremo- 
 nies in order to dig ilo the bodies for a ban- 
 quety as we had no ^oubt but that they 
 were acanibal tribe* W« however foon after 
 difcovered that they obtained their intelli- 
 gence from the conftant watch they kept, 
 to prevent any other bands of natives from 
 coming to trade with us, without giving 
 them a ihare of their profits, whatever they 
 might be. 
 
 As they paid us daily vifits, we at firft 
 imagined that their place of habitation was 
 at no very great diftance, though we had 
 never been able to difcover it ; but we now 
 learnt that they were a vagrant people, with- 
 
 C 2 out 
 
 •f 
 
 •3^, 
 
 ■#^ 
 
xxitI 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 out any fixed place of abode, fleeping where 
 they could, and when they had the iucli- 
 nation ; and that they made no di(lin£tion 
 between the night and the day, wandering 
 about as much during the one as the other. 
 They never made any fires in the night for 
 fear of being furprifed by thofe tribes with 
 whom they fecmed to be in a continual (late 
 of hoilility, and who mufl have come acrofs 
 the ice to attack them ; for as they had no 
 knowledge of the ufe of fnow ihoes, the 
 woods were wholly impaflable. 
 
 The month of March brought no alle- 
 viation of our diflreiTes : — It was as cold as 
 the months which preceded it. In the early 
 part of it there fell a great deal of fnow, 
 which encreafed the number of the fick, and 
 the violence of the difordcr in thofe who 
 were already afflicted by it. — In the courfc 
 of this month we had the melancholy office 
 of performing the laft imperfect obfequies to 
 the remains of the furgeon and the pilot. 
 Thefe were heavy misfortunes, and the lofs 
 of the former, at a moment when medical 
 knowledge was fo neceffary, muft be con- 
 iidered by all who read this page, as a con- 
 
 fummate affliction. 
 
 The 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. »«»» 
 
 The firft officer finding a return of his 
 complaint, applied to the fame means of re- 
 lief which had before been fo fuccefsful, — 
 exercife and the juice of the pine tree. — He 
 made a deco£lion of the latter which was ^ 
 extremely naufeous, and very difficult, tho* 
 very much diluted, to keep on the ftomach : 
 it operated reptatedly as an emetic, before it 
 became a progreffive remedy : — and perhaps 
 this very effect, by cleanfing the ftomach, 
 aided the future falutary operations of this 
 antifcorbutic medicine. The fecond officer 
 and one or two of the Teamen perlifting in 
 the fame regimen, found fimilar benefit, and 
 were recovered from a very reduced ft ate ; 
 but it is one of the unfortunate fymptoms of 
 this melancholy diforder to be averfe to 
 motion, and to find pain, bordering on nn« 
 guifh, in attempting to ufe that exercife 
 which is the predominant remedy. 
 
 Having loft our furgeon, we were now 
 deprived of all medical aid.— Every advan- 
 tage the fick could receive from the moft 
 tender and vigilant attention, they received 
 from myfelf, the firft officer and a feaman, 
 who were yet in a ftate to do them that fer- 
 vice. But ftill we continued to fee airl la- 
 
 C ^ ment 
 
 .^ 
 
kzxviii 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 ment a gradyal diminution of our crew 
 from this terrlule diforder. Too often did 
 I find my felf called to aflift in performing* 
 the dreadful. office, of dragging the dead bo- 
 dies acrofs the ice, to a (hallow fepulchre 
 which our own hands had hewn out for 
 them on the (hore. The fledge on which 
 we fetched the wood was their hearfe, and 
 the chafms in the ice their grave :-^But 
 thefe imperfeft rites were attended with 
 that fincerity of grief which does not always 
 
 follow the gorgeous array of funeral pride to 
 fepulchral domes. Indeed, the only happi- 
 
 nefs ; or, to exprefs myfelf with more ac» 
 curacy, the only alleviation of our wretched- 
 nefs, was when we could abfent ourfelves 
 from the veflel, and get away from hearing 
 the groans of our affli£led people, in order 
 to find relief in a fblitary review of our 
 forlorn fituation. All our cordial provifions ' 
 had long been exhaufted ; — we had nothing 
 to ftrengthen and fupport the fick but bif- 
 cuit, rice, and a fmall quantity of flour, 
 but no kind of fugar or wine to give with 
 them. Of fait beef and pork there was no 
 deficiency ; but, even if it had been a proper 
 food, the averfion of the people to (he very 
 
 fight 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 XXXIX 
 
 our crew 
 
 fight of it, would have prevented its falutary 
 effects. Fifh or fowl was* not an offering 
 of the winter here. A crow or a fea-guU 
 were rare delicacies, and an eagle, one or 
 two of which we killed, when they feemed 
 to be hovering about, as if they would feed 
 upon us, inftead of furnifliing us with food, 
 was a feaft indeed. — Our two goats, a male 
 and female of the fame age, and who had 
 been our companions throughout the voy- 
 age, were at length relu<Stantly killed, and 
 ferved the fick, with broth, &c. made of 
 their flefli, for fourteen days. 
 
 Though we were at the latter end of 
 March, there was, as yet, no change in the 
 weather ; — the cold ftill continued its inhof- 
 pitable feverity : — we now, however, began 
 to derive fome ^ hopes from feeing the fun, 
 which had been fo loiig ob feu red from us, 
 juft peep -at noon over the fummits of the 
 mountains. The thermometer had, during 
 this month, been for the moft part at 15" 
 and 16°, though it had fometimes rifen to 1 7". 
 
 The early part of the month of April was 
 very frofty, with violent winds. Towards 
 tluB middle of it, we had fome very heavy 
 Southerly gales, which produce the fum- 
 
 C 4 mer 
 
%\ IT^TRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 mer in thefe high latitudes, as the Northerly 
 ones prevail throughout the winter. The 
 change of wind produced, as may be fup- 
 pofed, a feniible alteration in the air ; but it 
 brought heavy (bowers of fnow, and did not 
 become ftationary ; fo that with the return 
 of the North wind, it became as cold as ever. 
 In (hort, during the latter part of this month 
 there was a continual combat of thefe oppo- 
 iing"winds, which, were the more difagree- 
 abl6^ as it occaiioned thick and hazy wea^ 
 ther. While the South wind prevailed, the 
 lick people grew worfe, and in the courfe of 
 this month, four Europeans and three Laf- 
 cars died. The fecond officer and the leaman 
 who entered upon the pine juice regimen, 
 were now fo far recovered as to get upon 
 deck to receive the fhort but welcome vifit 
 of the fun. This circumftance induced many 
 of the fick men to apply to the decodion, 
 and fome of them were perfuaded to continue 
 it ; but, in general, it was negleded, with a 
 determination to die at their eafe, (accords 
 ingto their manner of expreffion) rather than 
 be tormented by fuch a naufeous aad tor- 
 turing remedy. 
 
 Towards 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 icll 
 
 Towards the end of the month, in the 
 mid-day fun, the thermometer raifed to 32% 
 but at jiight it fell below the freezing point 
 to 27". During the laft three days in this 
 month, the natives brought us fome her- 
 ring and fea-fowl. The fifh, I myfelf dif- 
 triliUtcd to the fick, and no words can ex- 
 prefs the eager joy which animated their 
 haggard countenances on receiving fuch a 
 comfortable and refrefliing meal: — and every 
 jencouragement was, of courfe, given to the 
 natives to procure a conftant fupply of this 
 ftrengthening food. * 
 
 Thefe people now began to conible us 
 with an affu ranee that the cold would foon 
 be gone. They had, indeed, always made 
 us underftand, that the fummer would com- 
 mence about the middle of May, by count- 
 ing the number of moons. The fun now 
 began to make a large circle over the hills, 
 and at mid-day it was exceedingly reviving. 
 The fupplies of fifti were alfo frequent, and 
 we began to feel hopes, that the remaining 
 part of us would get out of this defolate 
 abode, and return again to our country. 
 Thefe circumftances gave fuch a turn to the 
 fpirjts of the people, that m;any of them 
 • ' cou- 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 . \ 
 
 i 
 
 \\ 
 
 ^ j 
 
 '»,.it. 
 

 %\h introductory voyage. 
 
 confented to be brought upon deck to feel 
 the rays of the fun, who faulted when they 
 approaclied th? air. It is very Angular that 
 niany of them who preferved aftonilhing 
 fpirits, and would fay or do any thing, who 
 appeared in fhort, as if they were free from 
 all diforder, while they were in bed, would 
 from the moft trifling motion, or only 
 touching the fide of their hammocks, be 
 thrown into fuch agonizing pains, and fuc- 
 ceffive faintiugs, that every moment might. 
 be fuppofed to be their laft. In this ftate 
 they would remain for near half an hour,: 
 before they recovered. 
 
 By the 6th of May, there was an afto- 
 nifhing change in every thing around us ;; 
 the feamen who had not been very much re- 
 duced, recovered miraculoufly, from drink- 
 ing the deco^ion. We had now as much 
 fifli as we could eat, with a great variety 
 of fea-fowl, with which the natives daily 
 provided us. — We had alfo feeh feveral 
 Bights of gccie and ducks pafs over us, 
 but none had as yet come within our reach. 
 
 On the 1 7th, a company of the natives, 
 with the King of the Sound, named She- 
 noway, came on board with great form, to 
 
 con- 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 xliii 
 
 congtatulate us on the return of fummef. 
 They alfo informed us that they had feen 
 two veflels at fea, an article of intelligence 
 which we fcarce knew how to believe, 
 though it was confirmevl by the fimilar and 
 iubfequent information of others oi the na- 
 tives ; but, on the 19th, this doubtful ac* 
 count was verified by the arrival of two 
 canoes conducting a 'boat, in which was 
 Captain Dixon of the Queen Charlotte from 
 London, which, with her confort the King 
 George, Captain Portlock, he had left at; 
 Montagu Ifle, to come in queft of us, on the 
 information of the Indians. 
 
 If all the circumftances are confidered,-^ 
 this muil be mentioned as amoflextraordina« 
 ry meeting; and when the horrid (ituatioii 
 of the Nootka and her crew is called into rcf- 
 fleCtion, their ficknefs and their forrow, — 
 their defolate fituation fo long continued, — . 
 and the chilling apprehenfiohs that, from 
 the ft ate of the crew and the ftate of the 
 fliip, even when the weather relaxed, and 
 the feafon became favourable, they might 
 not poffefs the means of quitting it ; — when 
 ^11 thefe items of misfortune are brought to 
 oiie aggregate of evil, if: is not a matter of 
 3 furprife 
 
xlvt 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 ■ 
 
 ,' 
 
 furprife that Captain Dixon fhould be wel- 
 comed as a guardian angel with tears of joy. 
 Nor (hall I deny that we received confidera- 
 ble affiftance and fervice from Capain Port- 
 lock, whofe embaffador he was. — And here I 
 fhould have concluded this part of my fub- 
 je£t ; but as the latter gentlemanin the ac- 
 count of his voyage, has thought proper to 
 rcprefent himfelfas poflefling the virtues of 
 a Samaritan, and that he exercifed them all 
 upon me, I have thought proper to ftate 
 the hiftory of his conduct with all the 
 neceflary vouchers, that the public may be 
 in pofTeflion of the truth, and be enabled to 
 judge of the extent of the obligations I owe 
 to the juftice, the liberality, and the huma- 
 nity of Captain Portlock*, 
 
 By 
 
 r 
 
 * In May, 1787, Captain A. Portlock arrived in the Kiiij; 
 George in an harbour in Prince William's Sound ; as did the 
 Queen Charlotte, Captain Dixon, who was difpatchcd with the 
 boats on a tracing trip, and arrived in S(iug Corner Cove, with 
 the long-boat of the King George and two wiiale boats. They 
 were informed by the natives, that a veflel was at anchor near 
 them, which th 7 underftood to be the Nootka, Captain M^ares, 
 On this intelligence,Captain Dixon was conduced by the nAtives, 
 Vid arrived on board the Nootka late in the evening. 
 
 When our mutual furprife was in feme meafure abated. Captain 
 Dixon was informed by me of my condition, and the misfortunes 
 which we had encountered. To which he replied, that it only lay 
 in Captain Portlock's power to lend us the affiflance he faw we fo 
 inuch wanted, and thfit he propofed to depart very early in the 
 ]|iQrmn£| to the fliipj witi(;h w^re diUant n^ar ao kagues : lie ulfo 
 • • " 9dded 
 
 % • 
 
 v*iiV*^» 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 atf. 
 
 By the 12th of May, the meridian fun 
 became very powerful, and the Southerly 
 winds being fet in, the air was foft and plea- 
 fant. The thermometer during the day and 
 in the (hade flood at 40*, though at night 
 it fell to the freezing poin*:, and fpread a 
 thin ice over what had thawed in the day. 
 The main bod^ of ice, however, by which 
 we were furrounded, began to loofen from 
 the fhore, where it was broken by the tide, 
 which rifes and falls eighteen feet, while 
 the drain of the thaw in the country drove 
 the pieces of ice out to fea. The veflel now 
 fwung to her anchors, the ice having thawed 
 from around her : — Our fick were recovering 
 very faft, though two of them baffled the re- 
 turn of the fun, and, in Ipite of our utmoft 
 
 atten- 
 
 added he was certain that Captain Portlock would put to fea imme- 
 diately on his hearing this intelligence of us. 
 
 I made Captain Dixon fenfible of our fituation, and that I had 
 no boat capable of proceeding down to the (hips ; I therefore 
 requefted to know if he would give me a paflage, in order that I 
 might lay before Captain Po tlock the hiftory of our diftrefles; but 
 Captain Dixon very honeflly informed me, that though he would 
 mod afluredly accommodate me with a paflage, yet he did not thinle 
 that Captain Portlock would fend yp a boat in return. I then 
 confldered, that, if 1 went down, and the fhips (hould neverthelefs 
 fail, leaving me to get back as 1 could, I fliould be in a Hate of the 
 moll accumulated misfortune; ---and, though my going down 
 would have been fome tie on Captain Portlock to fend me back to 
 my (hip in one of his boats, yet the didance between us being ib 
 great, it would take up fome days of his time, which might be to 
 
 the' 
 
\i< 
 
 in 
 
 %Ui INTRODUCTORY VOYAiGE. 
 
 attentions, added to the nuinber of tbofe 
 whom fate had ordained to take their laft 
 deep on this horrid fliore.— The face of the 
 country, however, was ftill covered with 
 fnow, land no vegetable produftion was yet 
 attainable but the pine tops ; that the fternefs 
 of winter had deigned to fpare U9, and which 
 proved an efficacious remedy to tbofe who 
 perlifled in the ufe of them* 
 
 On 
 
 the detriment of Iiis voyage j I therefore, on this conflderation^ 
 waved going, and inftantly wrote to Captain Portlock by Captain- 
 Dixon. (No. I.) 
 
 A few hours after the departure of Captain Dixon, it occurred 
 to me, that if we could poilibly launch the long-boat, and proceed 
 to the (hip> it might be the means of fecuring fome ailiftance pre- 
 vious to their departure. 
 
 The hull of the boat, indeed, was deplorable,— for when v/ti 
 launched her it wa^ with difSculty that we could keep her afloat; 
 neverthelefs, I embarked in her (accompanied by the firft officer 
 and five men) the fame eveninj;;. I took with me twocafks of rum, 
 and feveral bags of rice, to exchange for fome gin, and a little 
 fugar and cheefe ; all which, Captain Dixon informed me, they 
 had in abundance. 
 
 Fortunately we had fine weather ; and arrived at the fliip about 
 three o'clock the following evening, juft befcre the commence- 
 ment of a gale of wind. When we got along-fide the King 
 George, the boat was half full of water ; and the carpenter could 
 not avoid expreffing his aftoni(hment, that we had ventured (uoti 
 a diftance in her. 
 
 Captain Portlock received us with great politenefs ; and we. 
 found that Captain Dixon had arrived but a few hours before us. 
 As foon as we had refrefliedourfelves, I explained to CaptainPoft- 
 lock the nature of my errand,— which he heard, and faid he would 
 confult Captain Dixon on the fubjefl. I then proceeded, to give 
 him, without referve, fuch information relative to the various ex- 
 peditions on the coaft, their views, the probable time of their arri- 
 vals, &c. &c. which muft have been invaluable to him, from hit 
 Irtte/ ignorance of any other (hips. I gave him this information from 
 
 pure 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 slvH 
 
 On the 1 7th of May, a general dtflblu-* 
 tion took place throughout the Cove, and 
 when we once again found ourfelves in 
 clear water, the hopes of leaving this iccne 
 of fo much diftrcfs and horror, cneered our 
 languid minds with inexpreilible comfort. 
 
 The number of natives which we faw, 
 did not exceed five or fix hundred. — They 
 are a ftrong, raw-boned race of people, and 
 
 in 
 
 « 
 
 pure commiferation for the hitherto unforttmate events of his voyage, 
 and to guide him in his future proceedings: — Inihort, I coiiunu~ 
 nicated every thing in my power. 
 
 In a little time Captain Portlock^ in the prefencc of Captain 
 Dixon, informed me, that it was entirely out of his power to aflifl me 
 with men :— this they did, I fancy, to enhance the value of the fa- 
 vour ; for on my prefling that part of my requedwith great earnefl- 
 nefs, and urging that common humanity obliged them, and what 
 they would expect were they in my fituation, they confented to give 
 me two men, one from each vefiTel ; but required a frerti reprefent- 
 ation by letter, which I wrote them, (No. II.) Two Teamen were 
 then called in, and, I fuppofe out of delicacy, the Captains left the 
 cabin. Thefe men informed nie, that they would go with me on 
 the terms of Four Pounds per month, and one Otter-(kin each. It 
 appeared to be needlefsto argue with tliem,— I was at tJieir mercj', 
 and therefore clofed the agreement, except the demand of the ot- 
 ter-flcin, without much helitation, though they had but Thirty Sliil- 
 lings per month on board the European (hips. I indeed thought, 
 that Captain Portlock might have interfered, in fome degree, to 
 regulate this matter niorc to my advantage. The agreement was 
 immediately made in writing, duly (igned and fealed, between my- 
 felf and thefe feamen ; and Captain Portlock tuas a fubfcribing Witnefs'. 
 
 In return for- the two ca(ks of rum, of 50 gallons each, and 1 2 
 bags of rice of about ^oolb. I received 6 gallons of brandy, 1 1 
 of gin, two calks of flour, of 20 gallons each, 10 gallons of melaf- 
 fes, and fix loaves of Englith fugar. 
 
 The fame evening, at my requeft, Captain Portlock ordered his 
 carpenter to caulk my long-boat's bottom, fo that Ihe Was ren- 
 dered fit for my return. 
 
 During 
 
alViU 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGB. 
 
 in (ize rather exceeding, the. common ftattire 
 of Europeans. They have no town, vil- 
 lage, or fixed place of abode, but are con- 
 tinually wandering up and down the Soundy 
 as fancy leads or neceflity impels them, 
 confidering the whole of that territory as 
 fubjedt to them, and fufFering no other tribe 
 to enter whom they have ftrength fufficient 
 to keep out, without paying them a tribute 
 
 for 
 
 During thofc afts of mutual civility. I really thought myfelf 
 much indebted to Captain Portluck; and in retin-noifeied him lUch 
 articles as I could fpare ; f'uch as rum, rice, and a new cable of 1 3. 
 inches (Europe;) but he declined receiving any of thefe, not being 
 in want of them. In the evening of this day 1 bid him adieu; 
 and arrived iafe oa board the Ntxttka with the two Teamen. 
 
 A few days afterwards, I was furprifed to fee Captain Portlock's 
 two boats enter the Cove : they brought me the foUvwing letter 
 from that gentleman. , 
 
 Gate Hichinbroke, on board the King George, 
 
 May i^lbf 1787. 
 
 B A R SIR, 
 
 I HOPE by the time yoti receive this you will 
 be clear of the ice, the remains of your crew on the recovering 
 hand, and your vclTel in a Hate of quitting the Sound, which I 
 think cannot be done too foon, as on quitting the coad, by a fhort 
 run you may be amongd the Sandwich Iflands, where every re- 
 frefltment may be had for putting your (hip's company in a proper 
 fiate for proceeding towards China; where, at a proper feafb(i, 
 hope to fee you in good health. 
 
 1 think it was on the fecond day after you left us tlvit we failed 
 from Port Rofe, Montague Ifland; and, after rounding the Eaft 
 endofthefaid ifland, ftrctched over for this place, where I lay 
 much expofed ; but, at all events, mean to remain until the re- 
 turn of my long-boat from Cook's Rivei-, and the coaft tending 
 that way; to which place I di (patched her the day after you le^ 
 us, andcxpe^ her in about one month. 
 
 Captain 
 
 / 
 
INTRODUCTOkY VOYAOtt. tilt 
 
 for that privilege. When, however, thcjT 
 are intruded upon by a more powerful nation, 
 which fometimes happens, they retreat to 
 certain rocks which are iiiacceflible but by 
 a ladder that is drawn up after them, and 
 even their canoes, which are of a very light 
 conflru6tion, are hauled up with them. 
 
 They have a King whofe name was Shee- 
 noway ; he was a very old man and almofl: 
 
 D blind.— 
 
 Captain Dixon took his leave of nie ofT the Cape, bound to the 
 Southward towards King George's Sound, with direflions to 
 touch at every port he could make along the coafl, and try what 
 may be done on his way there : and as the weather fince his de- 
 parture hath been favourable, I hope he will make a good hand 
 of it. 
 
 I remember before you left us to have heard you fay, that you 
 had an abundance of trade of every kind remaining : and now, 
 my good friend, ) think, in your prefent fituation, that trade can- 
 not, at lead that it ought not, to be your object. I mu(^ beg 
 that you would fpare me a part of it. The articles I wifh you to 
 fpare are beads of difterent kinds, particularly the fmall green and 
 yellow fort, and of them as much as p^flible; iron unwrought* 
 and your fpare anvil ; you may' remember that I mentioned my 
 want of pepper and a compafs. 
 
 I hope to fee you as you pafs through the Sound : and remain, 
 withefteem, 
 
 Your's fincerely, 
 
 NATH"-' PORTLOCK* 
 Capt. John Mearbs, Smvw Nooika, 
 Sutherland Cwe^ Prince William's Sound, 
 
 I'wrote him by return of the boats, (No; III.) I hefitated not 
 a moment in complying with the purport of his letter} and as I 
 could not get at the articles of trade, they being flowed in the hold 
 I Tent what I had at hand, viz. the compals, fome pepper, a fetv 
 tags of rice, 400 or joolb. each, and feveral othtr articles- which 
 
 I thought 
 
 
 •"f»''5^? 
 
 %mgim3mmi^. 
 
 s^mmi^^ 
 
Vi 
 
 It INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 blUuS^-^'When he firft vifited us in the pre- 
 ceding autumn, he brought with him three 
 wonficn, whom he called his wives, and 
 were accordingly treated with a fuitable at- 
 tention, being prefented with fuch articles 
 as appeared to be mod agreeable to them ; 
 but they would not fuffer the moft diftant 
 fatXVtliarity from any of us. Thefe and three 
 or four others were the only women we faw 
 
 amongft 
 
 I thought he wanted, though he did not pay by any means an ade* 
 quate attention to my wants by his boats- 
 
 The Nootka in fourteen or fifteen days was ready for fea : we 
 therefore failed out of the Cove, where we had been fo long im- 
 prifoned, and anchored the next evening in Fort Ktches, where 
 the King George was alfo at anchor. I again met Captain Port- 
 lock with every civility. 
 
 A. few days aft«r my arrival, as we wereconverfing in a friendly 
 manner on board his own fhip, I was much furprifed at his putting 
 into my hand the fuliowing letter. 
 
 Kino George, Port Etches, 
 June 9»A, 1787. 
 
 CAPTAIN MKARES, 
 
 AT thet time 1 fpared you Thomas Dixoit 
 anji George Willis, to afliil in navigating the Nootka to China, I 
 had thoughts of quitting this Sound, and proceeding to other part* 
 of the coafts ; therefore your flay in the Sound, and carrying on » 
 trade with the natives, could not, in any material degree, affe^l ' 
 me. I therefore propol'ed to you no conditions refpeiting trade* 
 irt confidcrationofthat afliftancc, which, if I had done, I am pretty 
 certain you would very readily Ikivc complied with. Since that 
 period, I have had good reafon for adopting another plan, a' part 
 of which is to remain in the Sound, and purchafe every (kin,- of 
 evei^ kind,' that came in my way ; and as your remaining in,4he 
 Sound and ^trading muft, of courfe, Hop a confiderable part of the 
 trade that I might get, I ,find ^myfelf in dutyifoound, on account of 
 my ttTQployei;^ intereflis, to propofe the following concUtions,— 
 ivhicb, ifjtu ivutU mf/h t» ketp the ajjifiance I have ahtadj lent, 
 
 yoa 
 
 If 
 
 iii» W i '« « ' 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. t 
 
 nmongfl them. — We wiihed very much to 
 get one of their boys to live with us, in or- 
 der to obtain feme knowledge of their lan- 
 guage and man tiers ; this propodtion, how- 
 ever, they conftantly refufed ; but on con- 
 dition that wc (hould leave one of our people 
 with them. Indeed the King himfelf always 
 hefitated to come on board, unlets one orojf 
 feamen remained in the canoe du? mof.his vi>h\ 
 
 D2 
 
 ^^ome 
 
 you will finH it nreefaty to comply tvhb. Th*" Cri<'iii<;,n$ rir; th<fe» 
 ThatjWM bind yourftljfin (T Bond of five /i>«t.')r<.' pjutidf, <•'■ t'^af no 
 trade be carritd on for fkins of any kind uy ycin/i if, or any i>f 
 your crew, during your ftay in the Soj'jU this .'':uJbPt ';n'J tiiat 
 you let me have twenty bars of iror, sud loinc hoaf's." (^n thcie, 
 and only thefe (?onditionSj >'»« keep nvdr.! nj^fiarice I h-xv iiUmii} 
 lenty and receive nvbai other ajjiftancc I have in my p^ ':/j/r te qi'-orJ 
 you: at the fame time I mu(l atTureyou, that wa;; i i:t your Htua- 
 tion, I (hould not hefitatc a moment in com)i)v:n{r wirh thf tc>r:ns 
 propofed. You have made a good pui:.lia((:, — \ have it,\nv. Xf> 
 make. You have more trade than you can poiTbiy ^ifpuic of,— *^i 
 have mine to make. 
 
 NAIH'" i'ORTLOCK. 
 
 A requifition fo illiberal called forth all my aP.or.UIurr.ncj and 
 it was with difficulty I rould fupprefs the indignation I natir^lVy 
 felt, at the Ihamefill advantage he propofed to take of my helpiv*r/ 
 fituation. However, lor what could I do f Impelled by cruel ne- 
 ceflity, I agreed to thefe hard conditions, witiv i provifc, tliat 
 lie gave me his honour to let me have another nun from hiiTiy nnd 
 the probability of a boy ; and as he informed me that he hud a 
 quantity of porter on board for the Jaj an m; rlety :'nd ot)"ier arti- 
 cles, fuch as fugar, chocolate, &c. that i^e voiiid l<;t: rm nave as 
 much of thofe articles as I, wanted, at th:.- Ctuiton price, as he did 
 not njean to go to Japan :-~all thi» le aCTured mc tl).it he would 
 ^tnply.with :— 'in return, I plcdg'ju my honour not to trade, or 
 permit roy people ;-->the bei c's ;*au iron were accordingly fent him. 
 ^fere I finilhed iny ■''iiti he fixed the next day to fend the man,, 
 perhaps the Kyi ;«n4 ^vUinly the porter, which to ui would have 
 
 bcea 
 
 < \\ 
 
II 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 ir ' 
 
 \ 
 
 Iff 
 
 § 
 
 } \ 
 
 [h 
 
 Sometime in Oftober, iyZf>, his Majefty 
 . brought us a young woman and offered 
 her for fale ; and (he was accordingly bought 
 for ai^ axe and a fmall quantity of glafs 
 beads. . We at firft thought that Ihe was 
 one of his own women, but (he foon madp 
 us underftand that (he was a captive, and had 
 been taken with a party of her tribe, who 
 had been killed and eaten, which was the 
 
 general 
 
 been an invaluable acquifition, on account of our fcoiibutic habits 
 of body, and having nothing but failed beef to exift on down to the 
 iflands, the very idea of which we naufeated. 
 
 The next day his carpenter came on boards who began to caulk 
 the deck, and examine the pumps. Captain Portlock cnii>loyed 
 alfo fome of his people to brew beer and cut wood for us. 
 
 Captiun Portlock had done all this with fo many profedions that 
 it was aM for the good of hisowners, and appeared fo friendly to 
 me^ that I really was deceived by him. 
 
 His carpenter when caulking part of our deck had ufed about 
 fifty pounds of oakum of his own, we having none of that article* 
 f>r men to pick it ; — to replace this, I fent on board feveral lengths 
 of an old cable, about ii fathoms, when one of Captain Portlock's 
 people came on board witlVa melFage that he wanted 20 fathoms of 
 cable more, to replace the oakum : furprifed at this declaration, I 
 fent my firft officer on board, to explain to Captain Portlock that t 
 . really had no more junk or old cable in the fliip, and that if he per- 
 illed in his demand, I muft ruin a cable to comply with it, and that 
 I thonght what he had already received was a full equivalent. Seoa 
 after I received from Captain FortTockthe^ following letter. 
 
 OEAIL SIR, 
 
 I SHOULD be glad if you would fend me the other 
 eight bars of fquare iron to make up the number we had agreed 
 on; if you have not fquare iron at hand, I muft make flat iron 
 do; but I believe you have fufficient of either fort, eafily tob* 
 got at. ifnt of the twelve bars that I have received, my anAoUi%t 
 has ufed in lengthening your pump-fpears, and fitting the boxea ; 
 tti«refore I may fay the number received, inftead of twentyr ift 
 
 ntumtm 
 
 L'SWfc' 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 tt! 
 
 general lot of all prifoners taken- in war. — 
 She alone had been preferved to wait upon 
 the Royal ladies, who w^re now tired, or 
 perhaps jealous of her fervices. She remained 
 with us near four months, and appeared to 
 be very contented with her condition. She 
 had informed us that (he belonged to a tribe 
 who lived to the Southward, and it was 
 our intention to have coafted it along the 
 
 D 3 enfuing 
 
 only eleven. In confequence of what pafled yefterday between us 
 refpefling the junk, I fent my boatfwain on board, and expefted 
 he would have received about fifteen fathoms ; he was offered five 
 or fix, which quantity he did not bring on board, as I had told him 
 what I thought he would receive. You muft confider the wafle 
 there is in picking oakum ; befides the employment of my people, 
 w-hofe labour fliould, had it not been on your account, turned to 
 the advantage of my own fhip, in a trading expedition up the Sound ; 
 but, as it is, all hands mufl turn too for fume days, and pick oakum, 
 ready for my carpenter to begin caulking the (hip immediately on 
 fiaifhing with you ; therefore the lofs of time I have fuftained is of 
 more confequence to my owners than I ftiould fuppofe even fifty 
 fathoms of junk would be to your's. — Difpatch this boat as quick 
 
 as you can, and the third mart is getting himfelf ready for you 
 
 liiope you are well this morning, &c. 
 
 I am, dear Sir, 
 
 Your's fincere'iy, 
 
 N. PORT LOCK. 
 
 I tiien fent the cable, which contained twenty times the quanti^ 
 Ihad received from him. 
 
 , Captain Portlock alfo defired me to lend him fix (lands of arms, , 
 feme brafs muiketoons, and the anvil, Until we m? t in Cb>n«» 
 >yhich I immediately fent on board. 
 
 However, day after day he deferred fending the man, boy, or 
 pprtei;', or, indeed, fulfilling the remainder of his agreemei>t ;— , 
 and tluis matters reded till we were ready for fea :>-I then requeued 
 l^r> HoUings to go on board, and end^^vour to make Capt^ifi Port* 
 
 «-• ■ ' " lock' 
 
IW 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 enfuing fummer, in queft of furs, and re- 
 flored her to hfer own people, had not the 
 diftrefles which have been already related, 
 prevented us from purfuing any defign of 
 that nature. With what truth we know 
 not, but (he always reprefented the natives 
 of the Sound, as the moft favage of any 
 inhabitants of the Coaft, and continually 
 repeated, that it was the fear of our great 
 
 guns 
 
 lock comply with his agreement, and fave J»is honour; wheii, to 
 iiiy utter aftonifliment, Mr. Holiings returned with the following 
 anfwer :— "That he would fpare me 20 dozen of porter, and 19 ; 
 •♦ gallons of gin, for a new European 13 inch cable; (which 
 ** coft in Belngal near tool.) that he could not fpare the man, but 
 «« would give mean-old 9 inch hawfcr> of 80 fathoms." I natural- 
 ly rejefled this offer with indignation, the articles being by no 
 means of equal value, and as he refufed to fulfil his part of the 
 agreement between us. I told him, however, in the prefence of Mr, 
 HoUihgs, that if he was in diftrefs for a cable, I would fpare him 
 one, at the rate that the owners bought it, but on no other terms, as 
 I had no orders to eat or drink away the property of the iliip. 
 
 I then obferved to him, that if he had no regard to his honour* 
 yet it would appear but common humanity to fpare us fuch arti. 
 des as would tend to keep this deftniftive diforder under, until we 
 fhould arrive at the Sandwich I flandsl^ I reprefented, that it was 
 againft his own and owners intereil to keep an article of this kind 
 for the China market, wheti he had had an offer of the highefl price 
 ever given at Canton for articles of the like nature. 
 
 On no other terms could I procure the porter, and other little 
 aftid^s, .biit, as I have mentioned before, for the new cable, which 
 Irejedled; and in confequence of my reflifal to comply with his' 
 exorbttaht and diflionourUbie demands, Captain Portlock refufed 
 thfe two rten and the boy> withdrew his carpenter, and in other 
 private points was guilty of the moft iirtproper condu6l. When ' 
 he recalled his carpenter, thus fellow declared to Captain Portlock* 
 that our ffiip was not in a ftate of fafety ; her feams beiilg'O'peA 
 every where, and the pumps not finifhed. For what he had done^ 
 (nn».J cvalkm^ twofeorts foreandaft|Capfiain Portlock permitted 
 
INTROEUCTORY VOYAGE. W 
 
 guns alone, which prevented them from ' 
 killing and devouring ns. 
 
 During the intenfe froft in January and 
 February, we were vifiied by fome internie- 
 diate tribes, who lived in the neighbouir- 
 hood of her people, by whono fhe fent in- 
 vitations to them to come to us ; to which 
 we added prefents of beads, as an encourage- 
 ment to receive a vifit from them ; and 
 
 X) 4 within 
 
 bitn to charge fixty dollars, which I refufed, and agreed w«»h 
 him for forty dollars, or ten pounds, which was paid him by Mr» ' 
 Cox at Canton.' Captain Portlock received the money. 
 0« the i8th of June, I received another letter as follow*-: 
 
 King George, Port Etches, near Gapm ■ 
 
 HiNCHINBROKE, PriNCE WiLLIAM's SOVN*i' ' 
 
 June iS, 1787. 
 
 CAPTAIN MEARES, 
 
 I H A V E had very recent, good reafon to 
 think that, after you have quitted this Sound, you mean to put 
 into fome ports on the coad of America, to carry on a tradiag 
 fcheme ; now. Sir, you will recoUefl, that, in your reprefjcnti^tioa 
 to me of your diftreSed fituation, the navigating your vellel from 
 this to the Sandwich Idands, and from thence to China, in fafety, 
 was what you gave me to underhand as your only wifli. 
 
 If this is really your intention, as a man of honour you cannot 
 re'fufe giving me a fecflrity tliat you will leave the coaft immedi- 
 ately on your quitting this Sound, and purfuing that route.— In 
 cdniequence of your letter I have granted you two of the beA mea 
 from the king George, but you may be well aflured it was not 
 to enable you to trade along the coafl. ^ 
 
 Mr. Creflelman has the paper with him, which you cannot refufc 
 to'flgn, provided you mean to proceed as you declared you inteode4 
 *B"d«. ■ 
 
 I aitii Sir, 
 
 Your obedient, humble Servatil* 
 
 NATH'» FORTtOGK. 
 
 V. 
 
 — •r■*r^JH 
 
 ^3 
 
 • -vtrAaiii>,*.*-a 
 
f.J« 
 
 if INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 within a few days of the time, when (he 
 mentioned her expe£lation of their arrival, 
 fome of them came in three (ingle canoes, 
 and brought a fmall quantity of (kins. She 
 cameftly requefled permi(fion to depart with 
 them, but as we expelled to derive fome 
 advantage from her information in the fum» 
 mer, her de(ire was not granted. While, 
 however, our people were gone down to 
 
 breakfaft. 
 
 You will pleafe to be fpecdy in your determination, that I 
 way, in cafe you do not chufe to comply, in giving me the fecurity 
 I- have aHced, return you the articles I have received, and take 
 my people on board again. 
 
 I need not comment on this tranfatSlion. I was obliged to fub- 
 tnit; and I accordingly figned the Bond, of which I here give 
 an exact copy:— 
 
 CO Pr OF THE BOND, 
 
 Ship King George, Port Etches, 
 June 18/A, 1787. 
 
 Bl IT KNOWN UNTO ALL Men, That the under-written 
 
 '' mutual Agreement and Obligation was this day entered into 
 
 ' and agreed upon between N. Portlock, commander of the 
 
 ' King George, from England, on the one part, and John 
 
 Meares, commander of the fnow Nootka, from Bengal, on 
 
 the other part, under the pains and forfeitures as under- 
 
 mentioned : — 
 
 Wherieas the above-mentioned John Meares, in wintering on 
 
 the New Coaft of America, unfortunately loft thie greateft 
 
 ' part of his /hip's company, and was reduced to the greateft 
 
 .diftrefs, not being able to navigate his veflel to China. In 
 
 cbnfequence of the diflrefled fituation, as reprefented by the 
 
 ~ iaid John Meares to the faid N. Portlock, commanding the 
 
 King George, the faid N. Portlock promifed and agreed to' 
 
 aflift the faid John Meares, by lending him two able feamen 
 
 to enable him to prdfccute his voyage to China, on Con* 
 
 . PiTIQif That (he f»id John Meares Iballi on his leaving 
 
 Piinca 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE 
 
 l«ll 
 
 breakfaft, flie contrived to get to the ca- 
 noes, and we fa v her no more. At the 
 time the girl left us, the fcurvy was not 
 arrived to the cruel height which it after- 
 wards attained. — Neverthelefs (he made us 
 fenfible that the fame diforder prevailed in 
 her nation, and that whenever the fymptoms 
 appeared, they removed to the Southward, 
 where the climate was more genial, and 
 
 where 
 
 Prince William's Sound, where he now is, immediately 
 })roceed to Canton, and not on any account whatfoever <exce|^ • 
 drove by neceflity or accident) meet with, or continue to 
 trade or barter with the natives of any part of the faid coafl, 
 &c. for otter-(kins, or any other furs,the produce of the faid 
 coafls, on pain of forfeiting the fum of i ooo/. of good and 
 lawful money of Great Britain^ to the faid N. Portlock, his 
 heirs, executors, and afligns, for the ufe of the Proprietors 
 of the faid (hip King George. 
 In witnefs whereof we have hereunto fubfcribed our hands tlic 
 day and year above-mentioned. t „ 
 
 As I had good reafon to apprehend further demands from tlie 
 illiberal and fordid fpirit of Captain Portlock, I prepared immedi- 
 ately to put to fea ; but, before I could effe£l my. purpofe, the fame 
 officer who had brought me the bond came on board once mate, 
 with a peremptory demand that the two men, whom I had received 
 on my firft interview with Captain Portlock, (hould be returned 
 to the King George. On being informed that Captain Portlock 
 determined to keep the bond, as well as the articles with which I 
 may be faid to have very dearly purchafed thefe men, I refufed to 
 let thethgo;-^— when I was informed, that force would be em- 
 ployed to compel my fubmiflion to the demand he brought. My 
 anfwer to this menace was, That- as I had fulfilled every engage- 
 ment on my part, \ mould inHft on my right to the men ; and that 
 If Captain Portlock, whom I defcribed in the moft decided and 
 unequiv6cal terms, fhould make any attempt on the (hip, I was 
 determined to repel force by force — On this the officer departed ; 
 and in about half an hour returned| with ameflage from his Captaun 
 
 that 
 
 .i 
 
 >^ 
 
Iriil 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 ZMI-- 
 
 1 
 
 where plenty of fifli was to be obtained,' 
 which never failed to prove the means of 
 their recovery. ' 
 
 The natives of the Sound, of either fcx, 
 keep their hair rather (hort; — but of the 
 fame length before as behind : indeed their 
 faces are generally fo covered with it, that 
 they are obliged to be continually feparating 
 it, in oirder to fee before them. — The men 
 
 have 
 
 thait I might keep the men ; but without accompanying it with any 
 apology for his conduft.. 
 
 When the veffel was under fail, Captain Portlock thought pro* 
 per to fend me a Sandwich Ifland cap and cloak as a prefent; 
 which I returned. 
 
 Such was the conduft of Captain Portlock. To obferve 
 
 upon it would unnecefTarily lengthen an article, alrfady too long. 
 £very one is capable of determining upon the tendernefs or the 
 
 cruelty of this man's demeanour to me. W hether it demands 
 
 detefbttion or praife, is left to the judgment of thofe who read the 
 pages which contain this faithful and unexaggerateij^ccountof it. 
 
 f%e Letters 0/ Captain Portlock /• me are copied from the original t 
 in nuf poJfeJTton ; and^ having inferted them, it may ke exfeSei 
 that Ifiomd publijb thofe tuhicb I ivrote to him i—-tbey are there* 
 fore added, 
 
 (N0.I.) 
 
 io Capt. N. Portlock, 
 
 Commanding the KiKG Geo&ce. 
 » I R, ' 
 
 I MAKE no doubt, but that you will be furprifed or 
 Ae perufal of a letter from a brother officer in this diftant part "bf , 
 the globe ; and as Captain Dixon has been fo good as to offer a 
 conveyance of this to you, I could hot omit the favourable moment 
 Ihat providentially oflfers itfelf. 
 
 Some few days ago, the natives informed me of the arrival of 
 two (hips in this Sound, vrhich, this evening, we found to be fa€t» 
 t>y titp arriv;al of Captvo I>i;C9n on bojtrd t^ Noutka. 
 '.cj' I had 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 li* 
 
 have univerlally a flit iri their under lip, be- 
 tween the projc(Sling part of the liji and the 
 chin,'^yhich U cut parallel vi^ith their moudis 
 and has the appearance of another mouth. 
 The boys have two, three, or four holesr 
 where the flit is in the men, which is per- 
 haps the diftindlive mark of manhood. The 
 women have the fame apertures as the boys, 
 with pieces of fliell fixed in them refem- 
 
 bling teeth. 
 
 Both 
 
 I Iiad wrote a note a fe^' days ago, whirh I intruftcd to one of 
 the natives, to deliver on board one of the fliips, which he promifed 
 to do for a certain reward. 
 
 Before I proceed further. Sir, it will be neceflfai^ to give you 
 fome account of ourfelves: Captain Dixon will give you a proper 
 account of the fize of the (hip, and fo forth. 
 
 I failed from Bengal, in company with the Sea Otter, of to* 
 tons, my confort, commanded alfo by a lieutenant of the navy, 
 whof« name is Tipping, in the month of March 1786; the Go> 
 vernment of Bengal being chiefly conce;rned in the expedition.—- 
 The Sea Otter returned to China in September, with the cargo of 
 furs procured on thecoaft : I determined to winter; and accord, 
 ingly diofe the harbour where Captain Dixon found us. 
 
 My complement of men and officers were, four mates, gunner, 
 purfer, furgeon, boatfwain, carpenter, forty men and boys, with 
 a crew ftrong, able, and healthy. I thought nyfelf fafe and feaire; 
 but the calamities which we have fufTered during ^ long, fevere 
 winter, deflitute of all frefh proviHons, will, I am fure,, fill you 
 with tender concern. To fuch a height did it arrive, tliat it wa» 
 often the cafe, that myfelf and officers had alone to bury the dead, 
 whip we eifeeled with infinite difficulty, from tte rigid and im- 
 penetrable frods. 
 
 We arrived here the 25th of September, and were completely 
 froze in by the ift of Novemhcr. About Chriftinal the fcuVvy 
 made its appearance amongd us, and raged with fuch fury, thit it 
 (wept off the thir^ and 4th officers, furgeon, boatfwain, carpenter, 
 cooper, and the greaieft part of the cre\*. Ih (hdrt; nooiie'oA 
 p6^ #ab exempt froM it, either rdtiik dHd«'i »nidit is but thntf 
 
 1 
 
 ! , 
 
y 
 
 
 > 
 
 » INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 - Both fexes have the fcptum of the nofe 
 perforated, in which they generally wear a 
 large quill, or a piece of the bark of a tree. 
 Their beards which, however, are common 
 but in perfons advanced in years, are on the 
 upper lip, and about the extremity of the 
 chin, which in the winter is generally frofted 
 with icicles.— The younger part of them, 
 
 as 
 
 weeks ago, that what few were left have been able to creep about. 
 Svch has been our diflrefled fituation i-^at prefentwe have, inde- 
 pendent of the officers, but five men before the maft capable of 
 doing duty, and fourfick, which compofe the whole of our remain- 
 ing numbers. 
 
 I have given you. Sir, but a fliort recital of our misfortunes ; and 
 (hall hope, if it is in your power, that you will atFord us fome relief. 
 
 I fhould myfelf have accompanied Captain Dixon, had I a boat 
 afloat that could fwim ; the only one I have is along boat, which 
 we are now endeavouring to repair, and (he is on fliore. 
 
 As I have particularly mentioned to Captain Dixon wherein 
 you may be able to aflift me ; in addition I can only fiiy, that any 
 favour will indeed be gratefully received. 
 
 I (hall beg leave to mention, that could you poflibly fpare the 
 men, I (hould agree to any terms in their favour, and futhfully 
 return them on the (hip's ari'ival at Canton. 
 
 ' I beg your acceptance of a few bags of rice, being indeed the 
 eiily thing I have to prefcnt you with. 
 
 I am, Sir, 
 Your moft obedient humble Servant, 
 
 tiiht/Mayt 17S7. 
 
 J. M£ARES. 
 
 ( N«. II. ) 
 
 Oh BOARD THE King Gborge,' Port Etches, *%y 
 
 Prince William's SouKD,JWav 16/A, 1787. 
 
 To Captains PoRTLOCK tfn</DixoK. 
 
 Gbmtlkmbn, 
 
 IN my letter of the nth of this month, I re* ; 
 prelented to you the very diftreHed andl deplondile ftate of my (hip» 1 
 .mjuch you are perfecUy fcjiTihle is really th? C«#» and have m9ft ; 
 ... * kin% 
 
 .>*?%^.t»«i 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGft 
 
 M 
 
 as we imagine, pull it out as it appears.— 
 They have high cheek bones, and round flat 
 faces, with fmall black eyes and jetty hair. 
 Their afpe^l: is wild and favage, and their 
 ears are full of holes, from which hang 
 pendants of bone or {hell. They ufe a red 
 kind of paint, with which they befmear 
 their necks and faces ; but after the death of 
 
 friends 
 
 kindly offered me fuch affiftance as is in your power, refpefting 
 men to aflift me in navigating the fliip to China. 
 
 I mufl again beg leave to reprefent to you, that fnch is my 
 fituation, that, without the afliftance of men, it will be nearly an 
 impoflible thing for me even to quit this Sound, much lefs to na- 
 vigate the fliip to China ; fuch is the debility of my crew. 
 
 If therefore, Gentlemen, you will take this into confideration, 
 and permit me to have a feamen or two from each of your fhips^ 
 it may be the means of faving the lives of the wretched remains of 
 my crew, by enabling me to conduct, with fuch affidance, Uie 
 Nootka to Canton, where on your arrival, (hould Providence fo 
 order it as to fend us there alfo, I willfiuthfuUy deliver them back 
 to their refpe^ive fhips; and do engage, on the part of the Pro- 
 prietors, to ftand to any damage that may enfue to you for giving 
 us fuch timely and neceflkry aindance. 
 
 I do alfo engage, fhould not your (hips arrive at CantoOi to fend 
 thofe men to Kngland, (hould they defire to g*. 
 
 I ami Gentlemen, 
 
 Your mofl obedient, 
 
 J. ME ARES, 
 
 Coimnondtr of the Snow NmIu^ 
 
 (NMII.) 
 
 To Capt. Portlock, 
 CMi«Mi/i<//»jr/i&f King Georcei PQRT Etches. 
 
 »IAR SIR, 
 
 I WA S this morning favoured, and agreeably 
 furprized by the m'viiX of your boats, and the receipt of your 
 fiiciully ktter, 
 
 /> 
 
 M»ii riiiiirriiiiatjiii 
 
[K. 
 
 ut 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAOB. 
 
 friends or relations, it is changed into black. 
 Their hair is almod covered with thb down 
 of birds. Their cloathing confifts of a fmgle 
 frock, n^ade of the fca-otter ikin, which 
 hangs down to their knees and leaves their 
 legs bare. The drefs they ufe in their ca- 
 noes, is made of the guts of the whale, 
 which covers their beads, and the lower 
 part being tied round the hole in which 
 . . they 
 
 Tlie ice is completflly diilolved, and the wratlicr has been cx« 
 tiemely tine, which h«>!i ciMbicd us to put t'orwardour preparations 
 liar friii tobrin^ which to a final conclulion, you nvx) juOly luppoi'e 
 our iitinoit cftbrts have been made. 
 
 I arrived iafe at my Hiip the morning after I left you ; and, as I 
 ]tad brought t|)e ilrrngthof my crew witii mo, (oin my ablence 
 jftOihiiVl cv>uld be done to put her in forwardnefs. 
 
 Our chief employment (inre has been to entirely clear our main 
 and after holds, and completely How them for ica, with the view 
 Af lewring the coall ; and in cunfcqucnce of which all the beads 
 «nd tinwrought iron luvc been (lowed in the ground tier. 
 
 But, my dear Sir, fo tit rare wc from bcin^ ready, that our utmoft 
 cflbrts have been able only to accouipliih tins ; and 1 do fuppul'e 
 it will he ten days at leaft before w e Ihall be ready to put to lea ; 
 for we iiave now the fpte-hold to. clear of many calks, more ballalt 
 to take in, and wc have already received between twenty and 
 thirty tons ; our ca(ks are to repair without liaving a cooper, and 
 we have to complete our water, cut a lars^e quantity of wood, and 
 repair-thefails^ which are much eaten by rats; and finally to 
 jfQpaplete the rigging fpr Ica; .to perform this, we have, I think, 
 your two men, and eight capable of doing duty; nor am I myfelf, 
 or any of my officers idle, being employed in endeavouring to 
 repair a mifierable (hattercd cutter, anc^ in performing various 
 other necelFar)- avocations. This beiitg a true Rate of our Htuation, 
 you will from thence judgewhether itwill not require even a little 
 exertion to be ready in ten days. 
 
 We have a.little patch of ground ivhirhiiclearof fnow ; tothit 
 Ipot Vie lend oiur invalids, v(hoareexnploycdintlx>ilingd^o4t^,aD4 
 otfy for prclcut ulc and fea-flore i they recover but.llg|rly» thp^g^ 
 
 1 pcr» 
 
 M ^ . a> ^ 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 Isiii 
 
 they fit, prevents the water from getting 
 into the canoe, and at the fame time keeps 
 them warm and dry. This indeed may bo 
 confidered as their principal drefs, as they 
 pafs the hr greater part of their time in 
 the canoes. 
 
 There are to be found here all the differ- 
 CDt kinds of firs which grow on the other 
 
 fide 
 
 I perceive that the returning fprinp hath Ween the chief inflniment. . 
 1 obfcrve what you fay relative to the arrangements which you 
 have made for the purpofc of trade ; in it I with you every fuccefs, 
 and I beg leave to exprefs my hopes that I (hall meet you at the 
 clofe of the feafon at Canton. 
 
 You -may be affured that it g«ve me fingular pleafure when I 
 perufed that part of your letter wherein you requed-that I will 
 fupply you with the articles of trade you mentiun, which I will 
 moii aliurcdly comply with the moment I join you, which I mean 
 purpofely to do, to fupply every want you may have, and that is 
 in my power to grant. 
 
 The beads and iron, as I have mentioned, being flowed in the 
 f;round tier, cannot be got at until I arrive with you, when you 
 will lend me the necelTary alFidance to come at them ; I have fcarcely 
 fufficient at hand to ferve the purpofes of keeping the fltip fupplied 
 with the neccflary rcfrclhments which the natives bring at times 
 to us. 
 
 The other articles I have put in the boats, they being at hand. 
 
 As I hope fliortly to fee you, I will only beg leave to add| that 
 1 am, with cAeem, 
 
 Your'i, very fincerely, 
 'HooTKA, Sutherland-Cove, Prince 
 William's Sound, May 22,1787. J. MEARES. 
 
 (NMV.) 
 
 CAPTAIN FOKTLOCK, 
 
 I HAVEjuO: received your letter with 
 the bond or paper, from your mate. 
 
 I return you the paper, which is figned, but beg leave to temind 
 
 you that I think you have ufed me extremely ill throughout the 
 
 whole of this bufinefs, in retracing from your word, relative to 
 
 thethne.mcflAvhiohl wMtohavehadi one of mybeft men it 
 
 .^'^ ^'^ ^ hiMWIlilni 
 
 ■■ MK * . . T -—.- 
 
w 
 
 t » 
 
 •/ 
 
 I ' 
 
 Kv 
 
 IMTRODUCTORY VOVAOE. 
 
 fide of America. — There is alfb ftiake root 
 and ginfeng, fome of which the natives 
 bave always with them as a medicine, 
 though we never could procure any quan- 
 tity of it. 
 
 The woods are thick, and fpread over 
 about two-thirds of the afcent of the 
 
 mountains, which terminate in huge mafTcs 
 
 of 
 
 nnable to do his duty ; nor do T fuppofe he will be able during 
 the voyage: this, you muft befenJible, renders it more nrcefTary 
 for you to a6l with ttut humanity becoming a Britifh Aibjefl. 
 
 1 am, Sir, Your obedient Servant, 
 
 June ts, t^i^. j. mkares. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 To Henry Cox, Efq. Canitn. 
 
 AT fight, pleafe to pay Mr. Robert Hornc, car- 
 |ientcr of the King George, the funi of forty dollars, for work 
 done on board the Nootka ; which place to the account of, Sir, 
 
 Your mod obedient, humble Servant, 
 
 J. MEARES. 
 Snow Nootka, Port Etches, Prince ITilliam's 
 Sound, June 1 8 tli, 1787. 
 
 ( N°. V. ) 
 
 M»* CreflTelraan has delivered to me fome articles of the 
 Sandwich Iflands, as a prefent from you: As I am going there in 
 pcrfon, I truft to be able to procure fuch matters as I may want 
 of that nature; neverthelefs I am much obliged to you, but beg 
 leave to decline accepting any tnark of your attention. 
 
 ^«fl^i8, 1787. lam. Sir, 
 
 Your obedient Servant, 
 7i Captain PpRTi.ocK. J. MEARES, 
 
 Before I conclude this note I flialt remark on the declaration of 
 Captain Dixon, in the account of his voyage, *' that the diforder 
 which fo feverely afflit^ed my crew, arofe from their uncontrolled 
 application to fpirituous liquors." In the firft place, the alTertion i» 
 not founded in fa^ ; and, fecondly. Captain Dixon's crew and 
 liimfelf being viftted by a fimiUr qffliflion, I have an equal right 
 40 ictyliate the fome accui»tion upon him« 
 
 ti-' 
 
 
 -y*a '^ffr*'^^'^11 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. Ixf 
 
 of naked rock. The black pine, which 
 grows in great plenty, is capable of making 
 excellent fpars. We faw alio a few black 
 currant bufhes when we entered the Sound 
 in September, but no other kind of fruit or 
 any fpccics of vegetable. At that time, in- 
 deed, the. higli grounds were covered with 
 fnow, and tlie lowlands were an entire 
 fwamp from the ftreams of melted fnow 
 which flowed from above. 
 
 The only animals we faw were bears, 
 foxes, martens, mountain-ihecp, and the 
 ermine. — Of the latter we only killed two 
 pair, which were of a different fpecies. 
 
 Of geefe there were a great quantity 
 in the feafon, with various other fowls 
 of the aquatic fpecies ; but except the crow 
 and the eagle, we faw no birds that were 
 natives of the woods. 
 
 The article which the natives efteem 
 moft is iron, and they would prefer fuch 
 pieces as approached, in any degree, to 
 the form of a fpear. — Green glafs beads are 
 alfo much fought after, and at times thofe 
 which were red and blue. — They were very 
 fond of our woollen jackets, or any of the 
 old cloaths belonging to the Teamen. 
 
 They live entirely upon filh, but of all 
 others, they prefer the whale; and. as the 
 
 E oil * 
 
M 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAOEv 
 
 ; ' 
 
 '■m 
 
 r^H 
 
 u i 
 
 )\ 
 
 oil is wkh them the moft delicate part of 
 the fiih, they naturally efteem thofe moft 
 which poflefs an oily quality. — ^Thcy fel- 
 dom drefs their fi(h, hut when they do, 
 the fire is kindled by friftion with (bme of 
 the drieft pine wood ; and they have a kind 
 of baskets made of a fubftande which holds 
 water, into which a quantity of heated 
 ftones is put to make it boil ; but it is not 
 often that their food undergoes this unne- 
 ceflary and troublefome operation. In the 
 coWeft period of the winter we never faw 
 them employ their kitchen, which might, 
 perhaps, arife from local circumftances, that 
 encreafed the difficulty attending their cu- 
 linary exertions. 
 
 They are certainly a very favage race of 
 people, and poffefs an uncommon degree 
 of infenfibility to corporal pain. — Of this. 
 we had a very fingular proof on the follow- 
 ing occafion : — In the courfe of the winter, 
 among other rabbifli, feveral broken glaft 
 bottles had been thrown out of the (hip, and 
 one of the natives, who was fearching among 
 them to fee what he could find, cut his foot 
 in ? very fevere manner : on feeing it bleed, 
 we pointed out what had caufed the wound, 
 and applied a drefling to it, which wc made 
 him underftand was • the remedy we our- 
 
 I ' felves 
 
 %'<^l' 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. Ixvii 
 
 fclves employed on fimilar occafions: but 
 he and his companions inftantly turned the 
 whole into ridicule ; and, atthe fame time, 
 taking fome of the glafs, they fcarified theix 
 legs and arms in a moft extraordinary man- 
 ner, informing us that nothing of that kind 
 could ever hurt them. "' 
 
 Such is the character and manners of the 
 people in whofe territory we pafled fuch a 
 deplorable feafon ; it was therefore with in- 
 finite joy we took our leave of the Cove on 
 the 2iftof June, and the following even ihg 
 we got out to fea. Our crew now coniifted 
 only of twenty- four people, including myfelf 
 and officers, with the two failors we got from 
 the King George ; having, alas ! buried 
 twenty-three men in this inhofpitable Sound.' 
 Thofe which remained, however, were all in 
 great fpirits, though fome of them had ndit 
 yet fufficiently recovered to go aloft. As 
 foon as we got clear of the land, the wind 
 -hung much to the Southward, and brought 
 a thick fog along with it. As this weathct 
 was very unfavourable to people in our Hate, 
 it was thought advifable to keep near the 
 coaft. 
 
 We had now been at fea ten days, 'anil 
 liad got no further to the Southward than 
 57*. Our people alfo, from being wet on 
 
 El ^«ck|k 
 
 ■,*,■ 
 

 Ixviii INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 deck, began to complain of pains in their 
 legs, which fwelled fo much, that feveral of 
 them were obliged to keep their beds. — It 
 was determined, therefore, to ftand in for 
 land, which was not above forty leagues 
 diftant. We accordingly made a very high 
 peak of a Angular form, as the inhabitants 
 in its neighbourhood were of Angular man- 
 ners and appearance. 
 
 When we got pretty well in with the 
 ihore, a confiderable number of canoes came 
 ofF to us, which were of a very different 
 conflru£tion from thole in the Sound. Tliey 
 were made from a folld tree, and many of 
 them appeared to be from fifty to feventy 
 feet ip leni;th, but very narrow, being no 
 broader than the tree itfelf. — But of all the 
 beings we ever faw in human (hape, the 
 women were the moft ftrauge and hideous. 
 *rhey have all a cut in their under-lip, (imi- 
 lar to the men of Prince William's Sound, 
 but much larger, it being a full inch fur- 
 ,ther in the cheek on either fide. — In this 
 aperture iheyhavea piece of wood of at leaft 
 feveii inches in circumference, of an oval 
 ihape, of about half an inch thick, which 
 has a groove round the edges, that keeps 
 it Ready in the orifice. This unaccountable 
 cputrivance difteuds the lips from the te^th, 
 . r and 
 
 ■ -W i r ii i i - i M i ) <)! |y>w 
 
Isix 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 and gives the countenance the moft difguft- 
 "ing appearance which we believe the hu- 
 man face to be capable of receiving. — Thefe 
 people appeared not unacquainted with the 
 natives of the Sound, when we defcribed 
 them as having double mouths: indeed 
 their languages feemed to have affinity to 
 each other, but thefe people appeared to form 
 a much more numerous tribe.— They had 
 never been feen before by any navigator, 
 and had not a favourable wind fprung up 
 in the n'ght, we intended to have pafled a 
 few days among them. — The latitude of 
 this part of the coalt Is in 56° 38' North, 
 and the longitude 223" o' 25" Eaft of Green- 
 wich. 
 
 A Northerly wind now fprung up, and 
 brought clear weather along with it, which 
 continued till we made the ifland of Owhy- 
 hee. Our paffage from the continent was 
 fortunately very (hort ; but if we had not 
 been blefled with a continuance of fine and 
 favourable weather, the ftate of the (hip 
 was fuch, as to make it a matter of doubt 
 whether we (hould have reached the Sand- 
 wich Iflands. Still, however,, the horrid 
 diforder beneath which the crew had fo long 
 laboured, continued to accompany us, and one 
 man died before we gained the falubrious 
 
 clime, 
 
 >^ 
 
 i 
 
M ^i'i 
 
 -If) 
 
 lu 
 
 / 
 
 1 1 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGB. 
 
 <:limey whofc zephyrs may be faid to have 
 borne health on their wings ; for in ten days 
 niter we arrived at the iflands, every com- 
 plaint had difappeared from among us. 
 
 We remained here a month, during which 
 time the iflanders appeared to have no otb.er 
 pleafure but what arofe from (hewing kind- 
 ncfs and exercifinghofpitality to us. — They 
 received us with joy — and they faw us de- 
 part with tears. Among the numbers who 
 preffed forward, with inexpreffible eagernefs, 
 to accompany us to Bntannee, — Tianna, a 
 'ichief of Atooi, and the brother of the fo- 
 , vereign of that ifland, was alone received to 
 embark with u^, amid the envy of all his 
 countrymen. Of this amiable man I (hall 
 add nothing in this place, as he will be ra- 
 ther a confpicuous, and I am difpofed to 
 believe, ah interefting character in the fuc- 
 ceeding pages of this volume. 
 
 On the 2d of September, we left the Sand- 
 wich Iflands, leaving behind us, as we have 
 every reafon to beljeve, the moft favourable 
 impreflions of our condudt and charaAer 
 -with the iilhabitants of them, -^ and grateful, 
 on our part, for the generous. friend(hip and 
 anitious ferviccs w« received from them.— 
 After a very favourablfc voyage, carrying 
 ithe trade winds through the whole of it, we 
 
 arrived 
 
 • *t*t 
 
 , » , , 
 
INTRODUCTORY VOYAGE. 
 
 hsi 
 
 arrived in theTypa, an harbour near Macao» ' 
 on the 20th of 0<9:ober »78;7. 
 
 We had, however, fcarcely come to an an- 
 chor, when the weather began to wear th© 
 appearance of an approaching ilorm, which 
 oui' (battered veflfel was by no means in a 
 ftate to encounter. We were alfo very much 
 alarmed on feehig two French frigates, as 
 they appeared,riding at anchor, about a mile 
 from us. The minds of people fo long ha« 
 rafled with hardihips, and fecluded from all 
 political intelligence, were not in a ftate to 
 form favourable conjectures, particularly as 
 it was fuch an uncooimon circumftance ta 
 fee French (hips of war in thefe feas. When 
 therefore, we faw feveral boats filled with 
 troops putting off from them, we concluded 
 the worft. Having no confidence in the pro- 
 tedlion of a neutral port, we began to look 
 towards a ftate of captivity as the concluding 
 fcene of our misfortunes. Thefe boats, 
 however, paflfed by us, as we afterwards 
 learned, to board a Spanifh merchantman, in' 
 fearch of runaway failors. The French 
 (hips proved to be the Calypfo frigate of 36 
 guns, and a ftore (hip, commanded by the 
 Count de Kergarieu.— But, as if we were 
 deftined to be perfecuted by difafters to the 
 laft, we had no fooner loft our apprehen(ioii 
 
 of 
 
bxii 
 
 INTRODUCTORY VOYAGt. 
 
 / 
 
 \ 
 
 of human enemies, than we wereaffailed hy 
 elementary foes ; for fuch was the violent . 
 gale which now came on, that the Calypfo ' 
 frigate could with difficulty preferve her 
 flation with five anchors. The fituation of 
 the Nootka, therefore, who had only one 
 left, maybe better conceived than defcribed. 
 After adding a few more hair-breadth efcapes 
 to thofe from which (he had already been 
 providentially delivered, we were obliged to 
 run her alhore, as the only means of pre- 
 fervation. This was, however, happily ef- 
 fected by theadive affiftance of the Count 
 de Kergarieu, his officers and Teamen, of 
 whofe generous, and, I may add, indefati- 
 gable fervices, I am happy to make this page 
 a grateful, though imperfe(5t record. 
 It is with the moft painful fenfatipns, that 
 while I exprefs the moft grateful aftonifli- 
 ment at the prefervation of myfelf, and the 
 remainder of my crew from the imminent 
 dangers and difafters which we encountered, 
 I am to lament the fate of our coufort, the 
 Otter Sloop, Captain Tipping. — No tidings 
 have been received of her after {he left Prince 
 William's Sound. We muft conclude there- 
 fore that (he and her people have periflied 
 beneath the waves. 
 
 THE 
 
 % 
 
 It * 
 
VOYAGES 
 
 TO T H £ 
 
 NORTH WEST gOASr OF AMERICA^ 
 
 s 
 
 In the Years 1788, and 1789, Csfr. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Preparations for the Voyage, — Tiantta, a 
 Prince of the IJland Arooi, and other , 
 
 Natives of the Sandwich Isles embark,-^ 
 Charadler of Tianna. — Complement of the • 
 
 Crew of both Ships, — ^antity of Cattle, Sec, 
 embarked for the Sandwich Isles. — De^- . 
 parture of the Felice and Iphigenia 
 from China, 
 
 IN the month of January I788, in con- 1788* 
 junction with feveral Britifh merchants ^^^^^^^* 
 relident in India, I purchafed and fitted out 
 two veffels, named the Felice and the Iphi- 
 genia : the former was of 230 tons burthen, 
 and the latter of aoo* They were calcu- 
 
 A lated. 
 
VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 " I 
 
 1788. lated, in every refpeft, for their dcftined 
 January, voyage, being good failers, copper-bot- 
 tomed, and built with fufficient ftrength 
 to refift the tempeftuous weather fo much 
 to be apprehended in the Northern Pacific 
 Ocean, during the winter feafon. 
 
 It was originally intended that they fliould 
 have failed from China the beginning of 
 the feafon, but the difficulty of procuring 
 a fufficient quantity of ftores neceflary for 
 the voyage, delayed the (hips till the 20th 
 "of this month, when they were completely 
 equipped and ready for fea. 
 
 One of the (hips was deftined to remain 
 out a much longer time than the other. 
 It was intended, that at the clofe of the 
 autumn of this year, (he (hould quit the 
 coaft of America, and fleer to the Sand- 
 wich Iflands, for the purpofe of wintering 
 there ; (he was then ttp return to America, 
 in order -fp meet he^' con fort from China, 
 with a fupply of neceflTary ftores and re- 
 fre(hments, fufficient for the eftabli(hing 
 fa(ftories, and extending the plan of com- 
 merce in which we had engaged. 
 
 The crewG of thefe (hips confifted of 
 Europeans and China-men, with a larger 
 
 pro- 
 
 ■!f "^ 
 
 
NORTH WlLST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 proportion of the former. The Chinefe 1^88* 
 were, on this occafion, (hipped as an ex- J^nuart 
 periment : they have been generally efteem- 
 cdan hardy, and induftrious, as well as in* 
 gen ions race of people; they live on fifli and 
 rice, and, requiring but low wages, it was 
 a matter alfo of tieconomical confideratioii 
 to employ them ; and during the whole of 
 the voyage there was every reafon to be 
 fatisfied with their fervices.— If hereafter 
 trading pofts (hould be eftablifhed on the 
 American coaft, a colony of thefe men 
 would be a very impoiwant acquifition. 
 
 The command of the Iphigenia was given 
 to Mr. Douglas, an officer of confiderable 
 merit, who was well acquainted with the \\ 
 coaft of America, and, on that account, 
 was the moft proper perfon to be entrufted 
 with the charge of conducting this com- 
 mercial expedition. The crew contained 
 artificers of various denominations, among 
 whom were Chinefe fmiths and carpen- 
 ters, as well as European artizans ; form- 
 ing, in the whole, a complement of forty 
 men. 
 
 The crew of the Felice was compofed of 
 the fame ufeful and neceflary clafics of peo- 
 
 A 2 . pie, ' • 
 
 
 ! H 
 
VOVAOES TO THB 
 
 ^ \* '• '>> ' ^ 
 
 
 j 
 
 'm^ 
 
 \ 
 i 
 
 1788. pie, and amounted to fifty men : — this (hip 
 January, ^^s Commanded by myfelf. 
 
 A much greater number of Chinefe foli- 
 cited to enter hito this fervice than could 
 be received ; and fo far did the fpirit of 
 cnterprize influence them, that thofe we 
 were under the neceffity of refufing, gave 
 ■ the moft unequivocal marks of mortifi- 
 cation and difappointment. — From the many 
 who offered themfelves, fifty were felefted, 
 ^ as fully fufficient for the purpofes of the 
 voyage: they were, as has been already 
 obferved, chiefly handicraft-men, of vari- 
 ous kinds, with a fmall proportion of failors 
 who had been ufed to the junks which na- 
 ; vigate every part of the Chinefe feas. 
 
 In a voyage of fo long continuance, and 
 fuch various climates, very ferious and natu- 
 ral apprehenfions were entertained of the 
 inconveniencies and dangers arifing from 
 the fcurvy, that cruel fcourge of maritime 
 life. Every precaution therefore that hu- 
 manity or experience could fuggeft, was 
 taken to prevent its approach, to leflen its 
 violence, and efFed its cure : large quan- 
 tities of molafles, with fufficient propor- 
 tions of tea, fugar, and every other article 
 
 that 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. j 
 
 that might contribute to thefe falutary 1^38. 
 ends, were carefully provided. Each veflel January. 
 carried near five months water, allowing 
 one gallon per day for each pcrfon on 
 board, a plentiful fupply of which being 
 one of the moft efFedlual preventives of 
 this diforder. Warm cloathing of every 
 kind was provided for the crews, as well 
 Chinefe as Europeans : — In fliort, every 
 thing was procured that China produced, 
 to render both veflels as complete as pofli- 
 ble, and to enfure, as far as human means 
 could be exerted, fuccefs to the voyage, and 
 comfort to every denomination of people 
 who were employed in it. 
 
 Among other objects of this voyage there 
 was one, at leaft, of the moft difinterefted 
 nature, and the pureft fatisfadion ; and 
 that was to take back, to their refpe6live 
 homes, thofe people who had been brought 
 from America and the Sandwich Iflands. 
 A certain number of cattle and other ufe- 
 ful animals were purchafed and taken on 
 board, for the purpofe of being put on 
 Ihore at thofe places where they might add 
 to the comfort of the inhabitants, or pro- 
 mife to fupply the future navigator, of 
 
 A3 , our 
 
 r 
 
 1^1 
 
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 5 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. our own, or any other country, with the 
 j/NUARY. iicceflhry refrefhments. 
 
 In fuIfilJhig this pleafing duty to thefe 
 children of nature, whom a curious fpirit 
 and an unfufpeding charadter had led to 
 Aich a diftance from their native country, 
 a very marked attention was paid to Tianna, 
 a prince of the ifland of Atooi, a chief 
 of illuftrious birth and high rank, who, 
 in the year 1787, was carried by me to 
 China, and who now afforded us the plea- 
 fure of reftoring him to his country and 
 Iiis kindred, witli a mind enlarged by the 
 new fccnes and pictures of life which he 
 had beheld, and in the poffeflion of various 
 articles of ufeful application, or compara- 
 tive mngnificence, which would render him 
 the richeft inhabitant of his native iflands. 
 
 Mr. Cox, a commercial gentleman refi- 
 dent in China, was among thofe whom Ti- 
 anna regarded with that warm efteem which 
 repeated kindnefs never fails to excite in a 
 grateful mind : and it would not be doing 
 juftice to this amiable Indian, if he were 
 not reprefented as poffefling many of thofe 
 ^ jentimcnts which do honour to the moft 
 cultivated undei (lauding. Mr, Cox not only 
 
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 ''•**Kr«Ks--.*«v. 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 manifeflcd a general intereft in the honour 1 788. 
 and happinefs of Tianna's future life, by J*=*"*»^' 
 the generous confignment of a confidcrable 
 quantity of live cattle and other animals to 
 the ifland of Atooi, but, with the moft 
 attentive humanity, defired even to indulge 
 his unrefleding fancy, by appropriating a 
 fum of money to be expended as his own 
 untutored choice or wayward preference 
 fhould direft. This kind arrangement was, 
 however, neceffarily fet afide; and the im- 
 perfe£t judgment of the chief fupplied by 
 the better fuggeftions of his European 
 friends ; who directed the expenditure of 
 the allotted fum, to procure him thofe com- 
 forts and advantages which might laft du- 
 ring his life, and tend to the improvement 
 of his nation, inftead of gratifying the 
 momentary whim for thofe objeds which 
 he himfelf might, at a future period, per- 
 haps, learn to defpife. 
 
 The time that could be fpared from the 
 equipment of the Ihips, was in a great 
 meafure, dedicated to this amiable chief, 
 who was with difficulty made to conceive 
 the information that he was fo foon to em- 
 bark for his own iflands ; from whence, 
 
 . A4 «4 • 
 
VOYAGB8 TO THE 
 
 
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 1788. ^^^ ^^^ wonders of the new world to which 
 Jamvary, he had been introduced, were not fufficient 
 to feparate his affe^ions. The love of his 
 country, a principle which feems to be in* 
 herent in the human mind, in every ftate, 
 and under every clime, operated forcibly 
 upon him. Thofd domeflic affections which 
 are the fupport of all fociety, as well as 
 the univerfal fource of happinefs ; and 
 that parental fentibility which, in a greater 
 or lefs degree, influences all animated na** 
 ture, from the higher order of man to the 
 inferior claffes of the animal world, did 
 not lofe their energies in the breaft of 
 Tianna. His reflection had often fickened 
 at the thought of his family and his coun- 
 try ; and the gaze of his aftonifhment fre- 
 quently yielded to the intrufive gloom of 
 painful thought ;~Twhile the fame hour has 
 often feen him fmile with delight at the 
 novelties which he beheld around him, and 
 weep, with bitter lamentations, the far 
 dc arer objects he had left behind, when he 
 reflected that he might behold them no 
 more. 
 
 When, therefore, he was affured of his 
 approaching return to AtQoi,— *the idea that 
 
 4 . 
 
 ^^;t- 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 4 
 
 he (hould again embrace the wife whom 1 788. 
 he loved, and the child on whom he doted, Januart. 
 with all the added confequence which 
 would accompany him, from the knowledge 
 he had acquired, the wealth he poffefled, 
 and the benefits he (hould communicate to 
 the place of his nativity, produced thofe 
 tranfports which fenfible mmds may con- 
 ceive, but which language is unable to de« 
 fcribe. 
 
 To give a minute defcription of his cofi- 
 dud, behaviour, and fentiments, on his 
 arrival at Canton, might be confidered as 
 an unavailing digreffion, unworthy of r- at 
 curiofity which it is the office of thefe vo- 
 lumes to gratify. — It may not, however, be 
 improper to obfervc, that he difcovered a 
 mind pofleflbd of thofe capacities which 
 education might have nurtured into inteN 
 leftual fuperiority, and endued with thofe 
 {enfibilities which forbid enlightened reafon 
 from applying the name of favage to any 
 human being, of any colour or country, 
 who poffefl'es them. 
 
 When he firft beheld the (hips at Wam- 
 poa, his aftonifliment pofleffed an adivity 
 which baffles defcription, and he emphati- 
 cally 
 
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 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
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 1 788. cally called them the iflands of Britannee ; 
 Janvart. but^hen he had furveyed their internal ar- 
 rangement, with all the various apparatus 
 they contained, the immediate imprefllons 
 they occafioned on his mind were thofe 
 of deje£lion ; he hung his head in filence, 
 and fhed an involuntary tear, as it appeared, 
 over what he conceived to be his own in- 
 ferior nature. — But the fame fpirit which 
 urged him to quit his native country, in 
 order to return with knowledge that might 
 inftrudl, and arts that might improve it, 
 foon aroufed him into an a£tive and rational 
 curiofity. Indeed he very (hortly manifefted 
 no common degree of intelledlual exertion, 
 by difcriminatuig, as occadon offered, be- 
 tween the people of the feveral European 
 nation s» whom he daily faw, and thofe of 
 England, whom he always called the men 
 oi Britannee. — The natives of China he con- 
 (idered with a degree of difguft which bor- 
 dered on extreme averfion ;- their bald 
 heads, diftended noftrib, and unmeaning 
 features, had raifed in his mind the ftrongeft 
 fenfations of contempt : — Indeed it might be 
 owing to the addition which the natural 
 dignity of his perfon may be fuppofed to 
 
 re- 
 
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NORTH WEST COAST OF AM6RICA. 
 
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 receive from fuch a prevailing fentiment, 1788. 
 whenever he found liimfelf amongft them, Jakuart. 
 that the Chinefe appeared to regard him 
 with awe, and that, wherever he turned, 
 the timid crowd never failed to open to 
 him a ready paflage. 
 
 Tianna was about thirty- two years of 
 age ; he was near fix feet five inches in 
 flature, and the mufcular form of his limbs 
 was of an Herculean appearance. His car- 
 riage was replete with dignity, and having 
 lived in the habits of receiving the refpedb 
 due to fuperior rank in his own country, he 
 pofllffed an air of diftin£tion, which we will 
 not fuppofe could fuflfer any diminution 
 from his obfervation of European manners. 
 He wore the drefs of Jiiurope with the ha- 
 bitual eafe of its inhabitants, and had not 
 only learned the ufc and arrangement of 
 its various articles, but applied his know- 
 ledge to the uniform and moft minute 
 pradice of perfonal clean linefs and deco- 
 rum. The natural habits of his mind, 
 however, occalionally recurred, and the 
 childifh fancy of his native ftate would 
 fometimes intrude upon and interrupt the 
 progrefs of his improvement. He could 
 
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 VOYAGESTOTHE 
 
 788. not be taught to underftand the value of 
 NUARY. our current coin, and when he wanted any 
 thing that was to be purchafed by it, he 
 would innocently alk for iron ; which being 
 the moft valuable metal in his eyes, was 
 naturally confidered by him as the medium 
 of barter among other nations. 
 
 To return Tianna to his native ifland, 
 operated very powerfully in forming the 
 arrangements of the voyage before us : — 
 his original defign and inclination was to 
 proceed to England ; and Captain Churchill, 
 of the Walpole Eaft Indiaman, offered, in 
 the kindefl manner, to take him under his 
 protc6lion, nor could he have found a bet- 
 ter protestor ; but to confign him to ano- 
 ther's care, and to fend him to a country 
 from whence there might be no future op- 
 portunity of returning to his own, was a 
 bufinefs that his friends could not recon- 
 cile to their feelings. The permitting him 
 to leave Atooi, was confidered as an unre- 
 fle£bing ad; and it was now determined 
 that Tianna ftiould return thither, if not, 
 in reality, happier than before, at leaft pof- 
 feflbd of treafures beyond any poilible ex- 
 pe<Station of his unexperienced mind. But 
 
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KORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
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 of all the various articles which formed 1788. 
 his prefent wealth, his fancy was the moft Januart. 
 delighted with a portrait of himfelf, painted 
 by Spoilum, the celebrated artift of China, 
 and perhaps the only one in his line, 
 throughout that extenfive empire. The 
 painter had, indeed, moft faithfully repre- 
 fented the lineaments of his countenance, 
 but found the graceful figure of the chief 
 beyond the powers of his genius. The 
 furprife that Tianna exprefled, as the work 
 proceeded, was various and extreme, and 
 feemed to follow with continual change 
 every added ftroke of the pencil. When 
 this painting was prefented to him, he re- 
 ceived it with a degree of folemnity that 
 ftruck all who beheld it ; and then, in a 
 ftate of agitation in which he had never 
 been feen by us, he mentioned the cataf- 
 trophe which deprived the world o£ Cap- 
 tain Cook. He now, for the f rft time, 
 informed us that a fierce war ii id been 
 waged throughout the iflands, on account 
 of a painting, which he called a portrait of 
 that great man, and which had been left 
 with oneof their moft potent chiefs. This 
 pidure, he added, was held facred amongft 
 J - tliem. 
 
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 1^ VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. ^Hcm, and the refpc<5l they paid to it was 
 January. conHdcred by them as the only retribution 
 they could make for their unfortunate de^* 
 flrudlion of its original. f 
 
 It may not, perhaps, be thought impro* 
 per, if a Ihort digrelTion is made in this 
 place, in order to ftate, that during our for- 
 mer ftay* among thefe iflanders, we had 
 every opportunity of cftimating their feel- 
 ings with refpe6t to the lamented fate of 
 Captain Cook, and we have every reafoti 
 to believe that thefe diflant inhabitants 
 of the watery wafte, accompanied with 
 fincere forrow, the regret of Europe.-— 
 The numbers of them which furrounded 
 the (hip, with a view to obtain permiffion 
 to go to Britannee^ to the friends of their 
 beloved Cook, are incredible. They wept 
 and folicited with an ardour that con- 
 quered every previous averfion. Prefents 
 were poured in upon us from the chiefs, 
 who were prevented by the multitude from 
 approaching the veflel, and the clamorous 
 cry of Bn'tannee^ Britannee, was for along 
 time vociferated from every part, and with«» 
 
 ♦ Some account of this voyage is given in the In- 
 trodu£tiou4 
 
 . ^ out 
 
 ••«-> 
 
 •f ;».i— 
 
KQRTW west coast of AMERICA. fi 
 
 outceafing: nor can their (ilent grief be iy88. 
 defcribed, when it was niade known among JAt*"**^* 
 them, that Tianna, a prince of Atooi, was 
 the only one feie^ed to the envied honour 
 of failing with us. 
 
 Previous to our departure, Taheo, the 
 king of that ifland, paid us a vifit, accom- 
 panied by all his chiefs. As they believed 
 that the commanders of every European 
 fhip who had touched at their iflands ilnce 
 the death of Captain Cook, were the fons 
 of that illuflrious navigator, they, in the 
 moft afFedting manner, deplored that event ; 
 and while each of them was follcitous to 
 affert his own innocence, they united In 
 reprefenting the paflions that had urged 
 them to commit the fatal deed — which 
 would be a fubjecfl of their eternal contri- 
 tion — as a punifhment inflided on them by 
 their gods. After thefe, and many fimilar 
 declarations, they renewed their offers of 
 friendship to Britannee, and departed ; nor 
 have we the lead doubt but that future 
 navigators, who may chance to flop at 
 thefe iflands, will find there a fecure and 
 welcome afylum. 
 
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 16 
 
 VOYAGRS TO THE 
 
 1788. The other natives of the Sandwich Ifles 
 January, j^j^j America, who were received on board, 
 had been brought to China, by different 
 (hips, rather as object of curiofity, than 
 from che better motive of inftru£tion to 
 them, or advantage to commerce : —they 
 confided of a woman of the ifland of Owy- 
 hee, named Winee, who was in a bad and 
 declining ftate of health ; a flout man and 
 boy from the iOand of Mowee, and a native 
 of King George*s Sound ; the barbarous 
 nature of whofe inhabitants rendered it an 
 ufelefs experiment to accompany him with 
 any of thofe advantages provided for the 
 others. 
 
 On board of each fhip were embarked 
 fix cows and three bulls, four bull and cow 
 calves, a number of goats, turkies, and 
 rabbits, with feveral pair of pigeons, and 
 other flock in great abundance. Unfortu« 
 nately it was not in our power, at this time, 
 to procure (heep; but feveral lime and 
 orange-trees were purchafed and deflined 
 for Atooi, as Taheo, the fovereign of that 
 • ifland, poflelTed all the power necefTary to 
 prote£l fuch valuable property. Had we 
 been fo fortunate as to have landed all the 
 
 cargo 
 
 ;::r::^--- - 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
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 cargo prepared for the Sandwich Iflands, i^gg, 
 they would have become the moft eligible Janua»t. 
 places for refrefhment in the whole extent 
 of the Northern Pacific Ocean. If, how- 
 ever, the American commerce (hould be 
 
 9 
 
 purfued, very confiderable advantages will 
 be found to rcfult even from that part of 
 our defign which was compleated. 
 
 On the evening of the lad of January, Friday »»; 
 both fhips weighed from the Typa to pro- 
 ceed to fea; but it falling calm fhortly 
 after, and the tide of flood fetting againft 
 us, the fignal was made for anchoring^ 
 which was accordingly performed in the 
 roads, in fix fathoms, over a muddy bot- 
 tom. The Iphigenia being in a ftronget 
 part of the tide, was driven farther up the 
 roads, and anchored about two miles aftern • 
 of us. We here found riding, the Argyle- 
 ftiire, a large country fhip, of between 
 fix and feven hundred tons, bound to Ben- 
 gal : — ihe was afterwards unfortunately loft 
 in her palTage from Bengal to China, and 
 every foul on board fuppofed to have pe- 
 rifhedk 
 
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 CHAP. 
 
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 i-ssusir** — 
 
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i3 
 1788. 
 
 January. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 The Ipiiigenia /prints her Foremaft. — P*{/*- 
 fige to the Philippines. — Sail along the Coajl 
 of Luconia.—Pafs Goat IJland, the Ijlei of 
 Luban, JJland of Mindoro and the Cala* 
 mines, — Scurvy breaks out on Board the 
 Iphigenia. — Pafs the IJland of Panay. — 
 Mutinous Condudi of the Crew on board 
 the Felice, &c. 
 
 I'i 
 
 iMi 
 
 Friday jj. 
 
 fs 
 
 ABOUT nine o'clock in the evening, 
 an air of wind fprung up from the 
 South Eaft, which, though diredlly againft 
 us, determined us to put to. fea ; and the 
 iignal was made to the Iphigenia to weigh. 
 By ten o'clock both (hips were under fail, 
 the wind light and variable from the fouth- 
 ward. — We continued landing to the Grand 
 Ladrone until midnight, when it became 
 extremely foggy, which occafioned us to 
 ihorten fail for the Iphigenia, which was 
 confiderably aftern. The foundings were 
 regular, from f< -ir to fix fathoms, over a 
 nniddy bottom. — We now loft fight of the 
 5 Argylc- 
 
 *», 
 
 .^'» 
 
V 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 i9 
 
 Argylefliire, who alfo weighed and pro- 1788. 
 ceeded to the South Weft. January. 
 
 The morning of the 23d was extremely Saturday J3. 
 foggy ; and in the night we had loft fight 
 of the Iphigenia. — The wind now veered 
 to the Eaft North Eaft, and began to 
 frcflien up ; on which a fignal was made 
 with two guns to the Iphigenia, to get 
 the larboard tacks on board, and ftand to 
 the South Eaft. — At noon the fog cleared 
 away, when the Iphigenia was perceived 
 about a league to leeward of us. — During 
 the night we kept firing guns, and beating 
 the gongs* J in order that (he might judge 
 of our lituation. By obfervation, our lati- 
 tude was 20° 54' North, and longitude 
 114° 24' Eaft; the South Weftern part of 
 the Prata ftioal bore in the direftion of South, ' 
 73° Eaft, diftant 40 leagues ; Cape Bolinou, 
 South, 50° Eaft, diftant 419 miles. 
 
 As it was our intention to make the 
 coaft of Luconia well to windward, we 
 
 ,1 
 
 * A China gong refembles, in fome degree, the form 
 ofalieve; and is made of a mixture of metals. The 
 China janks ufc them as bells; and, when they are 
 ftruck with a wooden mallet, produce a deep, fonorous 
 noife. 
 
 B 2 refolved 
 
 t ki 
 
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§ 
 
 h- 
 
 I 
 
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 f . 
 
 29 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. refblved to keep as much as poflible to the 
 January. Eaftward, being apprehenfive of experien- 
 cing fouthcrly currents at this feafon of 
 the year. — We preferred making the coaft 
 of Luconia to that of Mindoro, or the Ca- 
 lamines, the coaft of the latter being fur- 
 rounded with numerous fhoals, rocks, and 
 fragments of iflets, which render the navi- 
 gation extremely dangerous, and require 
 the greateft precaution in failing through 
 fuch an extenfive Archipelago. — The charts 
 of thefe feas, by Mr. Dalrymple, moft 
 certainly poflefs a great degree of accuracy, 
 but are, as we fuppofe, necelTarily formed 
 on fuch a confined fcale, and marked with 
 fuch extreme delicacy, as to leiien their 
 intended utility for the common purpofes 
 of navigation.^ — By adhering to this track we 
 hoped to experience lefs boifterous weather, 
 from being fheltered, in fome meafure, by 
 the coaft of Luconia, and at the fame time 
 to fteer clear of many dangerous fhoals, 
 which lie at fome diftance from its coaft, 
 and are, indeed, fcattered throughout thefe 
 feas. 
 Monday 25 The courfc was continued to the South 
 Eaft, till the 25th ; the weather gloomy 
 
 and 
 
 Ph 
 
NORTH W2ST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 21 
 
 and unpleafant; the wind blowing fteadily 1788. 
 from the Eaft North Eaft, and North Eaft January. 
 by Eaft, with a very heavy fea. The lati- 
 tude, at noon, was iS'' North; the lon- 
 gitude 117° I ' Eaft. The South Maroona 
 fhoal bearing North 61** Eaft, diftance 49 
 leagues ; Cape Bolinou 62° Eaft, diftant 67 
 leagues. 
 
 The Iphigenia proved but an heavy 
 failer, when compared with the Felice, To 
 that we were continually obliged to flior- 
 ten fail on her account ; an inconvenience 
 which we determined to get rid of, by fepa- 
 rating company from her, and making the 
 beft of our way, as foon as we had got 
 clear of the Sooloo Sea. 
 
 In the evening we fpoke with the Iphi- . 
 genia, when Captain Douglas informed us 
 that the ftiip had fprung a leak in the late 
 bad weather, above the copper, which obli- 
 ged him to keep one pump going, but that 
 he hoped to ftop it the firft favourable mo- 
 ment. — ^This accident occafioned no incon- 
 fiderable degree of uneafinefs, — Circum- 
 ftances of this kind have a very unpleafant 
 tendency to diftiearten feamen, who, with 
 all their hardy courage, arc very fubject 
 
if 
 
 Ml > 
 
 22 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 
 1788. to be influenced by fuperflitious omens of 
 January. tJ^g j^oft trifling and ridiculous nature; 
 and which, if they (hould happen in the 
 beginning of a voyage, will frequently ope- 
 rate upon their minds and conduct through 
 the moft lengthened courfe of it. 
 
 Our China crew were all extremely afi^e£led 
 by fea-ficknefs, which was a very difcoura- 
 gingcircumftancc ; and the ex ce Hive rolling 
 and tumbling of the fliip, caufed the cattle 
 to droop ; indeed, from the appaient im- 
 poffibility of preferving them all, during 
 fuch a long voyage, — from the want of pro- 
 per food, and as there were a greater quan- 
 tity on board than were ncccflkry to flock 
 the iflands to which they were dcflhied,— ^ 
 it was thought proper to kill them all but 
 two cows and a bull, and one bull and one 
 cow calf, who might, we hoped, become 
 enured to the voyage, and be prt ferved to 
 their deftination. Accordingly two ot them 
 were killed, and frefli meat ferved to ;he 
 . crew, with barley, which made them com- 
 fortable mefles. ' 
 During the evening it blew very flrong 
 indeed, with an heavy fea. — Wc continued 
 . " ^vinding to the South Eaft, in the hope of 
 
 being 
 
 J 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 23 
 
 being able to weather the North Maroona ,^88. 
 flioal ; the pofition of which, according to Januait. 
 Mr. Dalrymple, is extremely doubtful ;— 
 we therefore kept the beft look-out in our 
 power. 
 
 At five o'clock we were alarmed, by per- 
 ceiving that the Iphigenia fpread abroad 
 the fignal of diftrefs, which denoted, at 
 the fame time, that (he was not in want of 
 immediate afliftance: we however inftantly 
 bore up and fpoke to her ; when Captain 
 Douglas informed us that his fore-maft was 
 fo dangeroufly fprung, that feme method 
 muft be immediately taken to fecure it ; 
 but the fea ran fo high, and it blew at 
 the fame time fo ftrong, that we were pre- 
 vented from affording any afli fiance what- 
 ever; we (hortened fail, however, immedi- 
 ately ; and before night the Iphigenia had 
 her fore-top-maft and top-gallant- maft on 
 deck, and her foremaft entirely il ripped. 
 
 It was now abfolutely neceflary for us to 
 keep under what poflible fail we could ; and 
 as the Iphigenia was able to keep abroad her 
 main-topfail, main-fail, and mizen, to give 
 thefe fails their proper tffcO: during the 
 night, we kept two points from the wind, 
 
 B 4 under 
 
 i i I 
 
 
 m 
 
24 
 
 VOYAGE! TO THE 
 
 ll 
 
 Ik 
 
 V 
 
 1788. under an eafy fail, giving up all hopes of 
 January, weathering the North Maroona, and being 
 doubtful even of keeping our wind fuiHci^ 
 ent to weather the South Maroona, which 
 is defcribed as extremely dangerous, and 
 whofe fituation is as uncertain as that of the 
 Northern Ihoalof the fame name. — It blew 
 very hard during the night, with a heavy 
 fea ; the Iphigenia appearing to labour cx- 
 peedingly. 
 
 This was, indeed, a very unfortunate 
 event ; the weather we had to encounter 
 was very much to be dreaded, and the 
 crippled ftate of the Iphigenia*s maft greatly 
 - increafed our apprehcnfions ; as, in cafe it 
 ihould meet with any further injury, there 
 was no friendly port nearer to us than 
 Batavia, where we fliould be able to re- 
 place it. Our fituation, driven as we were 
 about thofe feas, and furrounded by danger- 
 V ' ous ihoals, was truly dlArefling and alarm- 
 ing. — It was impoflible for us to make the 
 land, a$ we might be thrown into a fituation 
 ivhich would encreafe the danger of the 
 Iphigenia ; and as to leaving her in fo dif- 
 trefFed a condition, fuch a defign did not 
 pccur to us for a moment \ b^fides, we were 
 
 m 
 
 4 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA* 
 
 *5 
 
 not without apprchenfions of being driven ,^88. 
 too far to the Southward, which would rcn- January, 
 der it impoffible for us to get hold of the 
 coaft of Luconia, Mindoro or the Calamines, 
 and under fuch circumftances, inftead of 
 making the paffage of the Sooloo Sea, we 
 ihould have been obliged to take our courfe 
 through the Straits of Sunda, and reach 
 the Northern Pacific Ocean by the Straits 
 of Macaffar, of which, after all, we were 
 rather doubtful ; or, by doubling the South 
 Eaftern extremity of New Holland, if we 
 ihould give up the paffage of the Endea- 
 vour's Straits — It is very eafy to conceive 
 the uneafinefs we fufFered from the bare pro-^ 
 fpe£t of fuch a circuitous navigation. 
 
 The weather did not moderate until the 
 twenty-fixth at noon: the latitude was ' 
 then 17° 5' North, and the longitude 118" 
 Eaft. The South Weftern end of the North 
 Maroona bore in the diredlion of South Eaft, 
 diftant thirty leagues. We kept ftandiug 
 towards it during the night under fuch {a\\ 
 as the Iphigenia could fpread, and we very 
 much wiftied to have lent a boat on board 
 her: but, on a fudden, the weather became 
 ^s tempeftuous as ever, fo that we could 
 
 neither 
 
 I 
 
f 
 
 ' , 
 
 2$ VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. neither fend carpenters or plank to her aiUfl- 
 
 Janvaky. ance.— a ftage had been erefted round her 
 mad head, but a great hollow fea increafed 
 our alarms for her fituation. 
 
 This day, another of the cattle was kil- 
 led for the crew ; indeed, the exceflive tum- 
 bling and rolling of the (hips made us defpair 
 of faving any of them ; two of the fined 
 goats having already been cruflied by a fud- 
 dcn roll of _the fhip. — -During the night it 
 blew extremely hard, with a great hollow 
 fea. — We kept fleering to the South Eaft, 
 frequently bringing too for the Iphigenia, 
 
 ,r fhe being under fuch fmall fail. 
 
 This unfavourable weather continued 
 till the 27th, at noon. The latitude was 
 16'' 20' North, and longitude 119'* 12' Eaft. 
 The obfervation, however, was but of little 
 dependence, from the variety of currents 
 which we experienced. The wind had 
 veered to the Northward, and we hauled 
 
 ■ -_ up Eaft South Eaft, proportioning our fail 
 
 to that of the Iphigenia. It was, indeed, 
 apprehended, that an Eafterly current had 
 fet us to the Weftward, as our latitude was 
 16° 20' North, without feeing any thing of 
 ; , the Ihoal. As we could not fuppofe it pof- 
 ^ / - (ible 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 27 
 
 fible that we fhould be to the Eaftward of 178S. 
 the Marooiia, we were under the necefliiy Januart. 
 of hauling to the Eaft, as much as the run- 
 ning of a very high fea would permit. 
 
 In the evening we fpoke with Captain 
 Douglas, who informed us that the head of 
 his foremaft was entirely rotten, and that 
 it was with great difficulty the carpenters^ 
 could proceed in their attempts to fccure it 
 from the high, roUing fea. — Before night, 
 however, we had the latisfa<5lion of feeing 
 the Iphigenia's fore-top over head, and her 
 lower rigging fet up; fo that our fears of 
 being driven to the fouthward of Mindoro, 
 in fome meafurc fubfided. : . ■ 
 
 It was, however, determined, that, from 
 the great extent of feas we had to crofs, the 
 rilk would be too great for the Iphigenia, in 
 her prelent ftate, to attempt fuch a paflage 
 without having her maft well fecured; or, 
 if condemned, to be replaced by another. — 
 It was therefore refolved to call a furvey of 
 the carpenters on it, the firft favourable 
 moment ; and it was abfolutely ncceilliry to 
 fix immediately on fome place where the 
 repairs that (hould be found requifite could 
 he accompiilhed. The Spanifli fettlement of 
 
 R 
 
 Sam- 
 
 i'l 
 
28 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 I". 
 
 I 
 
 '; 
 
 t 
 
 1788. Samboingan, on the Southern extrennity of 
 January. Magittdanao, was conHdered as the beft place 
 for OUT purpofe ; and though we had fcarcely 
 ever heard of it, and the hofpitality of the 
 Spaniards was always to be doubted, our 
 neceflity obliged us to fuch a determination, 
 rather than proceed to Batavia, or encounter 
 the coaft of New Holland. 
 
 This evening, we paiTed great quantities 
 of rock-weed and drift-wood, which made 
 us apprehenfive of falling in with the fhoals. 
 Thurfday is. In the morning, the ifland of Luconia 
 was difcerned from the maft-head, bearing 
 from Eaft North Eaft, to Eaft South Eaft, 
 djAant 1 2 or 14 leagues, and bore an high 
 and mountainous appearance. As we clofed 
 in with the land, the weather became mo- 
 derate and fine, and the fea entirely fub- 
 fided. The Iphigenia had got up her fore 
 top-maft. At noon the obferved latitude 
 was 16° 16' North; fo that, during the 
 laft twenty-four hours, we had experienced 
 a ftrong Northerly current. 
 
 Nothing can more ftrongly prove the dan- 
 ger of navigating the China feas, than 
 the variety of contrary currents which we 
 experienced in fo Oiort a time; — During 
 
 the 
 
 i'^ 
 
 ^^*iHii 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. -g 
 
 the greater part of the North Eaft Mon- 1788. 
 foon, it has been generally obferved, that Januart. 
 a Northerly current fets along the coad: 
 of Luconia, as far as Cape Bolinou : there 
 the great body of water rulhing through 
 the ftraits which form the paffage between 
 Formofa, this Ifland, and the Babuyanes, 
 checks this current, and turns it into the 
 China Sea, where it receives a Southerly 
 dire^ion, at the diftance of 1 5 or 20 leagues 
 from the coafl of Luconia. 
 
 The currents, at all periods of the North 
 Eaft Monfoon, run ftrongly to the South- 
 ward in thofe feas, excepting near Luconia ; 
 but the ftreams of them acquire greater 
 force at the diftance of 30 or 40 leagues 
 from the (hores of this ifland, than they do 
 off the coaft of China : this circumftance 
 may be occafioned by the jundion .of the 
 waters palling through the ftraits of Luco- 
 nia, and thofe between China and Formofa. 
 Ships bound for China, which are late in • 
 the feafon, might avail themfelves of thefe 
 currents to reach Cape Bolinou, when an 
 eafy and pretty fecure paflage is open to 
 Canton. Indeed, bordering on the coaft of 
 Luconia may be attended with great advan- 
 3 ' tages; 
 
'1 
 
 I 
 
 •O VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. tngcs ; for, independent of this Northerly 
 January, current, fine Weather is generally experi- 
 enced. At times, variahlc winds ;— in the 
 very height of the Nortli Eaft Monfoon, it 
 has fomctimes been known to blow a fmart 
 gale from the South Weft. 
 
 As our apprehenfions Imd continued to 
 incrcafe of being drifted to the fouthward, 
 the fatisf;\<Slion we felt at thus getting in 
 with the land may be eafily conceived. — 
 Towards the evening of this day it fell 
 .calm; but, about nine o'clock, a frcfli 
 breeze fprung up from the South Weft, 
 which made us ftand on our tacks, for the 
 night, on and off ftiore ; where we faw 
 feveral fires, which remained burning du- 
 ring the greater part of the night. Our 
 diftance was between fix and {even leagues. 
 jFridayag. In the morning, the land bore from 
 ^ North North Eaft, to South South Eaft, 
 
 our diftance being about fix leagues : — it 
 appeared very mountainous, and was co- 
 vered with wood, except in fome detached 
 places, on the declivity of the mountains. 
 Vaft columns of fmokc afccnded from the 
 interior heights, which denoted pojjulation. 
 The latitude at njon was 15'' 5s' North. 
 
 ... During 
 
 H 
 
 Fiji , 
 
 .Jv'-sSjiJsij^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 3» 
 
 During the evening and the night, wccon- 1788. 
 tinued ftandine to the land, but could find Januaet. 
 no foundings with an hundred and fifty 
 fathoms of line. 
 
 The land extended from North by Eaft, Saturday jo 
 to North Eaft by £aft, diftant about fix 
 leagues; at which diftance we kept (leering 
 along the (hore to the Southward and Eaft- 
 ward ; the latitude was 15° 19' North, by 
 obfervation. The weather was extremely 
 moderate, and pleafant under the land, 
 the fta remarkably fmooth, and a continu- 
 ation of high, mountainous country, covered 
 with wood, prefented itfelf to our view. 
 
 At night, it blew a frefli breeze from the 
 Weftward ; and we ftood to the South by 
 Eaft, to make Goat Ifland, keeping a good ; 
 look out for fome fhoals that are faid to lie 
 to the Northward of the ifland. 
 
 In the morning, about eight o'clock, Sunday 31 
 Goat Ifland was feen, bearing North Eaft 
 by North, about the diftance of fix leagues ; 
 the coaft of Luconia bearing, at this time, 
 from North by Weft to South Eaft, at the . 
 diftance of 14 leagues. From an obferva- 
 tion made at noon, the latitude was 13° 45' 
 North. .;, 
 
 Goat 
 
 'J^ 
 
 \ 
 
 f 
 
 " '^^^pBHSSiH?^'^ 
 
 
 
Voyages to the 
 
 ' ii • 
 
 iif 
 
 m. i 
 
 il 
 
 I - 
 
 >> 
 i^ 
 
 I 
 
 
 1 788. Goat Ifland Appeared of a moderate height^ 
 jANUARv. and to be well wooded, but without any 
 iign of inhabitants. The Luban Iflands 
 ' were perfect mountains covered with woods : 
 — The Spanifh charts, indeed, reprefent the 
 Lubans as connected by fhoals with Goat 
 Ifland ; but we could not perceive any bro- 
 ken water, or procure foundings with one 
 hundred and fifty fathoms of line. 
 
 We took the opportunity of the favour- 
 able weather we now enjoyed to put the 
 fliips in a ftate of defence. The guns 
 were accordingly mounted, a fufEcient quan- 
 tity of powder and ammunition was filled, 
 and every other necefTary preparation made, 
 as thofe Teas are infefled with numerous 
 bands of pirates. Two very fine (hips had 
 lately been taken by them. One of them 
 was the May, of 300 tons, and mounting 
 twenty guns, and had been on a trading 
 voyage from Bengal to the coafl of Borneo. 
 General intelligence was received from tli€ 
 Malays of her being deflroyed, but not a 
 iingle perfon efcaped to relate the particu- 
 lars. Several other fhips have very nar- 
 rowly efcaped deflrudion : indeed, fcarce 
 a year pafles away, but feme cataflrophe 
 . ' -■ . of 
 
 'N.;.. .1. 
 
 t^?%^ 
 
 ■ "■■-■'^/j^i j 
 
MORTH WESt 60AST* 6P AMERICA. 
 
 33 
 
 of this kind happens. The proas from 1788. 
 Magindanao and Sooloo iflue forth in fuch Jahuary. 
 fwarms, that it becomes dangerous for a 
 weak (hip to fail thofe feas. Thefc proas 
 are manned wifh an hundred, and fome* 
 times an hundred and fifty men, well armed, 
 and generally mounting pieces of cannon 
 of fix or twelve pounders. As foon as a 
 ihip is captured by them, a carnage en- 
 fues, — and the unhappy few who furvive it 
 are carried into irredeemable flavery. Thefe 
 people cruife in fleets of thirty or forty of 
 thefe proas; nay, fometlmes an hundred 
 of them have been perceived in company ; 
 and though we did not very much appre- 
 hend that they would venture to attack two 
 fliips, it would have been an unpardonable 
 negligence if we had not prepared ourfelves 
 for whatever might happen. We availed 
 ourfelves alfo of the prefent favourable op- 
 portunity to furvey the mafts of the Iphi- 
 genia, and deliver her fuch ftores and other 
 articles as we knew that flie wanted, to put 
 her in a refpedlable ftate of defence. We 
 therefore fent on board her two additional 
 pieces of cannon, with a requifite proportion 
 of powder, ball, and other ammunition; 
 Vol. I. C and 
 
 t 
 
 1?^ 
 
 r 
 
 X 
 
tv, 
 
 li 
 
 1 1 
 
 'i I 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 Iif 
 
 34 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 n 
 
 1788. and in return received a quantity of coals 
 January, foj- the forges, and feveral other neceffary 
 articles. 
 
 Additional reafons continually arofe why 
 the fhips Ihould feparate on the firft oppor- 
 tunity after we had Cleared thcfe dangerous 
 feas. But, if even there had been no other, 
 the Felice, by keeping company with the 
 Iphigenia, who was at beft inferior in point 
 of failing, would have been very much im- 
 peded in her voyage; and it was become 
 neceflary to make every poffible exertion to 
 lave our feafon on the coaft of America. 
 .In the evening, the carpenters returned 
 from the Iphigtnia, and reported the maft 
 to be, in every refpe£l, unequal to the 
 voyage ; they even doubted whether it 
 would carry her to Samboingan. The 
 head was quite rotten and fupported by the 
 cheeks : good fifties, however, were put 
 on, and fecurely woolded. 
 
 At funfet the ifland of Mindoro was feen 
 bearing South Eaft by Eaft, diftant ten 
 leagues. The wind blew very ftrong from 
 the Eaft, and it came down in violent puffs 
 from the high mountains of Luban : du- 
 ring the night a prefs of fail was carried to 
 
 reach 
 
 (I'M ■' 
 
 
35 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 reach tinder the (hore of Mindoro. The 1788. 
 wind blew mvariably from the Eaft, fo January. 
 that we became apprehenfive of being en- 
 tangled with the iflands called the Cala- 
 mines, which are not onlj in great number, 
 but extremely dangerous. The top-fails 
 were reefed, and as much fail as we could 
 well keep abroad was carried, which brought 
 us happily under Mindoro about midnight. 
 It foon after became fqually, and as it would 
 have been very hazardous in a dark night, 
 and on an unknown coaft, to run, the fig- 
 nal was made to the Iphigenia to heave to 
 with her head off fhore ; we immediately 
 did the fame ; but Ihe had ft retched a- head 
 out of fight, though (he anfwered our fig- 
 nal. — During the night it blew very hard, 
 and we were continually founding, but 
 could find no ground with an hundred 
 fathoms of line. The inhabitants not only 
 kept numerous and conftant fires along the 
 (hores, but had even lighted them on the '' 
 
 very fummits of the mountains. -> - 
 
 At day break we occupied much the fame F'B'^uarv 
 fituation as when we hove to in the night. 
 The Iphigenia was near four leagues a-iiead, 
 but we made fail and joined her by noon. 
 
 C 2 Our 
 
 
2^ ' VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. Our latitude wa« 12'' 59' North: The 
 FEBRUARY, iflaiid of Mlndoro bore South Eaft by Eaft, 
 — diftant fix leagues. 
 
 The ifland of Mindoro at funfet, bore 
 from North by Eaft half Eaft, to South 
 Eaft by Eaft, half Eaft ; our diftance from 
 the ihore about fix leagues. In the night it 
 was, as ufual, very tempeftuous, and we 
 experienced a very ftroiig current againft 
 us, which caufed fuch a confufed fea, that 
 we were apprehenfive for our mafts and 
 yards. Early in the evening we had fhort- 
 ened fail, and kept a good look out for the 
 . fhoals that lie between Mindoro and the 
 Calamines, jln order to clear them, we 
 hauled clofe under the ftiore of the former 
 ifland; the channel between Mindoro and 
 ;^ - thofe ftioals being reprefented as three leagues 
 wide. The fires appeared to be more nu- 
 merous on the declivity of the mountains, 
 and were kept burning all night. 
 saturdaj 2. At nine o'clock in the mornings we per- 
 ceived the Calamine Iflands, bearing South 
 . Weft to South Eaft, diftant fixtecn or feven- 
 • . ■ teen leagues. The weather had alfo taken 
 a favourable turn ; it was become moderate 
 and pleafant, and we congratulated ourfelves 
 
 liiO 
 
 
 very 
 
 
NORTH WE8T COAST OF AMERICA. 07 
 
 very much on entering this channel ; as the 1788. 
 flrong Eafterly winds might have blown February. 
 us to the Southward and Weftward of the 
 Calamines, which would have obliged us 
 to have bore up along the coaft of Palawan, 
 and made our entrance again into the Sooloo 
 Sea very precarious at this feafon of the 
 year. We now found the advantage of 
 keeping the (hores of the Philippines on 
 board, whenever the winds permitted us ; 
 but in accompli(hing this we experienced 
 fome difficulty from the conftant North 
 Eaft and Eaft winds, which obliged us to 
 carry a conftant prefs of fail. 
 
 Captain Douglas embraced this opportu- 
 nity to inform us that the fcurvy had made 
 its appearance on board his Ihip- The 
 carpenter, two of the quarter-mafters, and 
 fome of the leamen were already ill, — 
 others difcovered lymptoms which were 
 truly alarming, — their legs fwelling, and 
 their gums becoming putrid. They were, 
 therefore, immediately put on a diet, — 
 fpruce beer was ordered to be conftantly 
 brewed, and ferved in the room of fpirits, 
 feveral bafkets of oranges were fent on • 
 board, whofe efficacious qualities in this 
 *• : Cs di{^ 
 
-3 VOYAGESTOTHE 
 
 1788. diftemper are well known, and every other 
 February, antifcorbutic was immediately brought into 
 application, in order to check this early ap- 
 pearance of a difbrder, whole continuance 
 would be attended with fuch fatal confe- 
 quences. 
 
 We very fenfibly perceived the cncreaiing 
 heat of the weather. On leaving China, 
 we had it piercing cold ; and now, on a 
 , fudden, we felt the oppofite extreme.— 
 
 Sijch a change, with the heavy dews which 
 fell morning and evening, was a very un- 
 healthy circumftance ; neverthelefs we were 
 rather aftonilhed, that men who had fb 
 lately quitted the fhore, where they had a 
 plentiful allowance of frefli provifions and 
 vegetables, and who had not tafted fait meat 
 for many months, (hould be attacked with 
 fuch violent fcorbutic fymptoms, and at 
 fuch an early period of our voyage. Be- 
 lides, we were extremely careful in the 
 diibibution of their food ; the fait provi- 
 fions were always well ftceped ; rice and 
 peas were boiled alternately every day ; 
 tea and fugar were given the crews for 
 breakfaft ; they had a plentiful allowance 
 of water, and every poflible attention was 
 
 ■ ' ■) ■ .^ paid 
 
 k 
 
 ,r ' 
 
 / 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. #^ 
 
 paid to prefcrve cleanlinefs among them : 1 788. 
 they were never permitted to fleep on deck, February. 
 left they (hould be afFedVed by the unwhole^ 
 fbme dews ; and no fpirits were fufi^red to 
 be iflued in their raw ftate,— a circumftance 
 of the laft importance to all feamen. Indeed 
 thefe precautions (hould be redoubled with 
 refpeft to men who have made frequent 
 voyages to India, as their blood becomes, 
 on that account, more liable to the attacks 
 of this moft formidable diforder. ' 
 
 We kept fteering, during the night, 
 under the fhores of Mindoro ; the topfails 
 were clofe reefed, and, the weather being 
 very fqually, we frequently founded, but 
 could find no bottom with an hundred fa- 
 thoms of line, though within four leagues 
 of the land. 
 
 This morning we loft fight of Mindoro, Sunday 3 
 and at noon the Ifland of Panay was feen 
 bearing from North Eaft by Eaft, to South 
 Eaft, diftant nine leagues ; the weather 
 moderated with the wind from the' North 
 Eaft. The latitude at noon was 12° 53' 
 North. 
 
 The Ifland of Mindoro is of confiderable 
 extent ; in fome parts it appeared to be 
 
 C 4 only 
 
 »v 
 
r*'' 
 
 40 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. only of a moderate height, in others very 
 February, mountainous, and almofl every where cover- 
 ed with wood. From the numerous columns 
 of fmoke which we obferved afcending both 
 from the vallies and the mountains, during 
 the day, and the fires that continued to illu** 
 minate the night, there is the greateft rea- 
 fon to fuppofe that it poflefles a confiderable 
 degree of population. Some parts which 
 we were able to obferre diftin(5tly, appeared 
 to be truly delightful ; they confift^d of 
 extenfive lawns, clothed in the fineft ver- 
 dure, watered with filver rivulets,, and adorn* 
 edwith groves of trees, fo difpofed, either 
 by art or nature, as to form fcenes of rural 
 beauty which would adorn the oioft refined 
 (late of European cultivation. j 
 
 On the following day we ranged up with 
 the Ifland of Panay : the latitude at noon 
 was 10° 36' North ; our diflance from the 
 land four miles ; and, which is very extra- 
 ordinary, without being able to find found- 
 ings with eighty fathoms of line. Nume- 
 rous villages appeared on the declivity of 
 the hills, and the whole country formed a 
 mofl luxuriant profped. The habitations 
 fej^med to be extremely weU built, and 
 
 ^londay 4 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. rj 
 
 arranged with great regularity. The hills i^83. 
 were verdant, and their gentle flopes were Februart. 
 varied with ftreams of water running down 
 to the plains, where they flowed round, 
 or meandered through well-cultivated plan- 
 tations : — the whole forming pidures of 
 nature equal to thofe which we had feen on 
 the preceding day ; and received every ad- 
 vantage from the very fine weather we now 
 enjoyed. ^ 
 
 Our eyes wandered over the pi(flurefque 
 and fruitful fcene now before us, with the 
 moft fenfible pleafure. We were, at times, 
 within three miles of the ihore, which, near 
 the water- fide, formed a fine fandy beach, 
 lined with cocoa-nut trees, beneath whofe 
 fliade we beheld the natives, in great num- 
 bers, enjoying a cool retreat from the in- 
 tenfe heat of the fun, and bufied in the 
 various occupations of the day. We very 
 much regretted that we had not time tocafl 
 anchor here, in order to have enjoyed fome 
 communication with them. It may not 
 he alfo unworthy of remark, that we did 
 not difcover a fingle canoe or fifhing-boat on 
 jhat part of the coafl along which we paiTed. 
 ih-^ : ■ . • ^ . ■'.. .- .At 
 
 V 
 

 li 
 
 A^ 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1 , 
 
 17S8. At this time a mutiny was difcovered 
 Fkbruary. on board the Felice ; which, however, was 
 fortunately quelled by gentle means, even 
 before it had communicated itfelf to the 
 whole crew. But, in order to flamp fome 
 degree of difgrace upon the butinefs, all 
 the circumftances of it were inferred in the 
 log-book of the (hip. 
 ' And here it may not be improper to offer 
 
 an opinion, that, if in long voyages, all 
 the particulars of the good and bad behavi- 
 our of the crew were defcribed in the log- 
 book as they arofe, fuch a reg^ilation would 
 be attended with the happiefV confequences. 
 Shame will always be found to operate, 
 more or lefs, on every man, whatever his 
 rank or employment of life may be, who 
 is not abfolutely abandoned ; and to fuch, 
 the fevereft puni(hrr*e:it will have no effect 
 beyond the fmarting of the moment. — 
 Indeed I am firmly of opinion, that many 
 a failor, with all the hardy training of a fea 
 life, and all the infenfibility attributed to 
 a feaman*s character, would be deterred 
 from an improper condudl, by the appre- 
 henfion of having it regiflered in the records 
 of the (hip> when the temporary pain of 
 
 corporal 
 
 N 
 
 .1! 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 45 
 
 corporal punifhtnent would be confidcrcd i ?88. 
 with contempt. februart- 
 
 Indeed I cannot but lament the inefficacy 
 of the marine laws to reftrain the unlawful 
 behaviour of failors on board merchant fliips. 
 It is a real dlfgrace to the firft maritime 
 and commercial nation in the world, to 
 have been fo long without an eftablifhed 
 fyftem of regulations to preferve the obe- 
 dience of feamen in the trade fervice, as well 
 as that in the navy. How many (hips have 
 been loft, from the licentious, ungovern- 
 able condudb of their crews ! and how 
 many voyages rendered unprofitable from 
 the fame caufe. Neverthelefs, it does not 
 appear that any efforts have been made to 
 prevent fuch a manifeft inconvenience to 
 the commerce of our country. Other 
 nations have included merchant (hips in 
 the general laws ena£ted for maritime fub- 
 ordination ; and it is of real confequence to 
 this country to follow fuch a falutary ex- 
 ample, and to form a code of regulations 
 that may operate to keep in a due ftatc 
 ofdifclpline a clafs of men who are fo 
 neceflary to the commerce, the ftrength, 
 and the glory of the Britilh empire. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 Hi 
 M til 
 
 \ < 
 
 ».'Jl WP Wi a iWrl i 
 
H/ 
 
 J- 
 
 44 . 
 1788. 
 
 FSBRUAHY. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 PI 
 
 ('■ 
 
 Monday 4 
 
 Sichnefs of the Sandwich IJlanders, — Death of 
 JVinee ; her CharaSler^ Csfr. — DeJlruSiion of 
 Cattle, — IJlanJs ofBafilan and Magindanao, 
 '^'The Ships anchor off the latter. — I'hc Car' 
 penters and Party fent on Shore to cut a 
 Mafl^ &c. — Lofs of a China Man, — Spani^ 
 ards fcnt on board to compliment the Ships, 
 ^-Both Ships moor off Fort Caldera, — 
 Behaviour of the Spaniflj Governor^ &c, 
 
 OUR friends of Owyhee had fufFered 
 extremely during the paflage acrofs 
 the China feas. Tianna, in his conftant at- 
 tendance upon Winee, had caught a fever, 
 which, with the humane anxiety he felt 
 on her account, confined him for fome time 
 to his bed. The man from Nootka Sound, 
 however, polTefling a very robuft conftitu- 
 tion, bore the inconveniencies of the voy- 
 age with little complaint ; but the poor, 
 unfortunate woman juftlfied our fears con- 
 cerning her, that fhe would never again tee 
 her friends or native land. She every day 
 
 5 declined 
 
 t "f- 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 45 
 
 declined in (Irength, and nothing remained 1^88. 
 for us, but to cafe the pains of her ap- FuRUARr. 
 proaching diflblution, which no human 
 power could prevent. Nor did we fail, I 
 bei eve, in any attention that humanity 
 could fuggeft, or that it was in our power to 
 beflow. She had been for fome time a 
 living fpedtre, and on the morning of tho 
 fifth of February fhe expired. At noon her 
 body was committed to the deep ; nor was 
 it thought an unbecoming a6t to grace her 
 remains with the formalities of that religion 
 which opens wide its arms to the whole 
 human race, of every colour, and under 
 every clime, to the favage as well as to the 
 faint and the fage. Tianna was fo much 
 affected by the circumftance of her death, 
 that we were for fome time under very 
 painful apprehenfions led his health might 
 fuffer from the feelings of his humanity 
 on this occafion ; as he poffeffed, in a very 
 great degree, that delicacy of conftitution 
 which difcriminates the chiefs from the 
 vulgar people, and is peculiar to the great 
 men of his country. 
 
 Thus died Winee, a native of Owyhee, 
 ojie of the Sandwich Iflands, who poflefled 
 
 \ 
 
 
 I 
 
 11 
 
 
 virtues 
 
'Hi;, 
 
 
 
 ^5 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. virtues that are feldom to be found in the 
 February, clafs of her countrywomen to which ihe 
 belonged ; and a portion of underftanding 
 that was not to be expelled in a rude and 
 uncultivated mind. It may not, perhaps, 
 be uninterefting to mention the caufe of 
 this poor girl's departure from her friends 
 and country, which it was her fate never 
 to behold again. 
 
 Captain Barclay, who commanded the 
 Imperial Eagle, was one of thofe adven- 
 turers to the coaft of America who made 
 a very fuccefsful voyage. Mrs. Barclay 
 accompanied her hulband, and Ihared with 
 him in the toils, the hardships, and viciffi- 
 tudes incident to fuch long, as well as peri- 
 lous voyages; but by no means calculated 
 , for the frame, the temper, or the education 
 
 of the fofter fex. This lady was fo pleafed 
 with the amiable manners of poor Winee, 
 that (he felt a defireto take her to Europe; 
 and for that purpofe took her, with the 
 conient of her friends, under her own par- 
 . ticular 'rare and protecSlion. On Mrs. Bar- 
 clay's departure from China for Europe, 
 Winee was left, as we have already men- 
 tioned, in a deep decline, to embark for 
 
 3 ^er 
 
 ''""--■ -^W'*"^ 
 
S4 
 
 1 '''I 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 47 
 
 her country, with the reft of the natives 1788. 
 of the Sandwich Iflands. Februart. 
 
 On the morning of her death, fhe pre- 
 fented Tianna, as a token of her gratitude 
 for his kind attentions to her, with a plate 
 looking-glafs, and a bafon and bottle of 
 the fineft China: to thefe gifts (he alfo 
 added a gown, an hoop, a petticoat, and 
 a cap for his wife ; the reft of her pro- 
 perty, confifting of a great variety of arti- 
 cles, Ihe bequeathed to her family ; and 
 they were depofited with Tianna, to be 
 delivered to her father and mother. ^ 
 
 Nor let faftidious pride caft a fmileof 
 contempt on the trifles that compofed her 
 little treafure. They were wealth to her, 
 and would have given her a very flattering 
 importance, had ftie lived to have taken 
 them to her native ifland. But when we 
 confider the fufFerings of her mind, on the 
 reflection that flie fliould never behold her 
 country again ; — when we fee, as it were, 
 the difappointment of an inofFenfive pride 
 preying on her fpirits ; — when to thefe 
 caufes of dcje<^ion are added the pains of 
 incurable difeafe, inereafed by the tofling 
 of the billows, and the violence of tern- 
 ' • ' ' peftuous 
 
 • 1 
 
 - --••*«ii****»»ta»M-«3Kp- 
 
 ''ii^'^^.^'i r ff j f g. 
 
^8 ' •'• VOYAGES to THE ' ■ "''* 
 
 1788. pcftuous feas, — humanity muft feel fof 
 February, thofe mifcries which haunt every corner of 
 the earth, — and yield a compaifionate tear 
 to the unfortunate Winee ! 
 , The bad weather had, at this time, greatly 
 . reduced our flock of cattle, — there now re- 
 mained of our original number, but one 
 bull, one cow, and one cow-calf; — all the 
 goats, except two, had periflied. 
 Tucfdays At fuufet, on the fifth, we had almoft 
 loft fight of Pan ay ; Point de Nafib, the 
 fouthern extremity, then borfi Eaft North 
 « Eaft, diftant feven leagues. The weather 
 was extremely hazy, with the wind from 
 the North Eaft ; and we kept fteering 
 during the night to the fouthward and 
 eaftward, under an eafy fail, for the fouthern 
 extremity of the ifland of Magindanao, 
 which we defcried on the morning of the 
 Wedncfdaye 6th of February, at day-break, bearing 
 Eaft, (even or eight leagues diftant : it 
 appeared high, and very mountainous, — 
 At noon, the latitude was y'^ 22' North, 
 and our diftance from the land three leagues. 
 The mountains jutted abruptly into the 
 ^ fca ; and from their fummits to' the water's 
 
 edge, were covered with wood. We were 
 
 con- 
 
 , ^ym,^-t^-, .,♦-«•■» J|^-'-^v\j»»--i-- 
 
 .-'SJ 
 
KORTH WfiSf COASf OF AMERICA. 
 
 49 
 
 continually founding, but could find no hot- i ^88. 
 torn with an hundred fathoms of line. Februart. 
 
 It now became a matter for our choice, 
 either to fleer diredly to Sooloo, or to the 
 SpaniHi fettlement of Samboingan ; the 
 latter, however, was preferred, it being 
 thought by no means prudent to run fo 
 far to leeward as the former. Befides, as it 
 was, the continual North Eaft winds made 
 us apprehenfive that we fhould find it 
 rather a difficult matter to weather Jelolo, 
 or even New Guinea ; it was, therefore, 
 determined to keep the ihore of Magindanao ^ 
 clofe on board, and truft to chance to fupply 
 our wants : we continued running down 
 the ifland tin funfet, the fliores being bold, 
 and no danger to be apprehended, as we 7 
 could procure no ground. The Weftern ex* 
 tremity bore South South Eaft five leagues ; 
 and as we thought it rather hazardous to 
 run during the night, the fignalwas there*' 
 fore made to heave to till morning ; when Thurfdayj 
 we refumed our courfe, at about the dis- 
 tance of a mile from the fhore. In the 
 night we had experienced a Northerly cur- 
 rent. 
 Vol. I. D At 
 
 -^ \ 
 
 r<! 
 
^^u 
 
 so 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. At noon, the ifland of Bafilan was feen, 
 Fi-BivuARY. bearing South South Weft nine leagues. 
 Our latitude was 7® 8' North. It had a very 
 fingular appearance, from a great number of 
 hills of a conical form ; one of which ter- 
 minated its Eaftern extremity, and refembled, 
 in fhape, the cap of a Chinefe Mandarin. 
 It was a very confpicuous object, being the 
 higheft of this curious groupe of hills. This 
 ifland lies near Eaft and Weft ; and feveral 
 other iflands, but of much lefs extent, ap- 
 pear off its Weftern point. 
 
 About three in the afternoon, we opened 
 the channel that feparates Bafilan from Ma- 
 gindanao. At half paft three, the Southern 
 extremity of Maglndanao was doubled; and 
 we entered this channel, which appeared 
 to be of confiderable breadth, with feveral 
 fmall iflands in the midft of it. Our found- 
 ings were from twenty-five to thirty fa- 
 thoms, over a rocky bottom. The South 
 ^ end pf Magindanao we eftimate to lie in the 
 
 latitude of 6"^ 56' North ; the fliore was 
 everywhere covered ^th wood, down to 
 the Tea. ,; 
 
 At half paft four we were moft agreeably 
 furprifed at feeing a fmall ftone fort feated 
 
 i on 
 
 
 "tT'JSJ? «»»-»■• i» '■'' 
 
 f.r "'*[Lii m i:AM M-^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 5' 
 
 on the Magindanao (here, contiguous to a 1*38, 
 ftream of running water, and about two miles febru 
 from the South point. At the fame time a 
 large village was feen more to the Eaft- 
 ward. The enfign was immediately hoifted, 
 which very foon occafioned the Spanifli co- 
 lours to be difplayed from the fort, and we 
 were now no longer in doubt that the place 
 was Samboingan. It was a fquare building, 
 with centry boxes at each angle, covered 
 with thatch, and the ramparts feemed to 
 be crouded with Malayans ; but • on the 
 whole it had the appearance of a very in- 
 different fortification. 
 
 The tide of ebb now came ftrongly againft 
 us, and the fignal was made for anchoring, 
 which was accordingly done in eleven fa- 
 thoms, over a muddy bottom, at the diftance 
 of about two miles from the fort, and within ' 
 a quarter of a mile from the fliore, which ' 
 appeared to be covered with an impenetrable 
 wood. 
 
 The boats were immediately hoifted out, 
 and the carpenters fent to examine the na- 
 ture of the woods. We now obfervcd with 
 our glaffes the Spanifh colours flying on 
 another fortification adjoining to the village, 
 
 D 2 and . 
 
 ARY. 
 
 mi 
 
w 
 
 ;:»■. 'i 
 
 52 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. and before which two gallles werf? riding at 
 FiJBRUARy. anchor. About five o'clock, a fmall boat 
 came along-fide us, with a white flag flying 
 in her bow ; — ftie was rowed by four Ma- 
 layans, and had on board three Spanifh Pa- 
 dres or Priefts. At firfl they appeared to be 
 extremely apprehenfive that our arrival fore- 
 boded Ibme kind of hoftility ; but being 
 affured that our intentions were peaceable 
 and friendly, they accepted our invitation 
 to come on board, and having taken fome 
 refrefhment, they returned to the village ; 
 after having cautioned us not to permit any 
 of our people to draggle into the woods, 
 which were infefted with Malayans, who 
 would be upon the watch to make every 
 kind of depredation upon us. In confe- 
 quence of this very kind and important in- 
 formation, orders were immediately dif- 
 patched to the Iphigenia, who had anchored 
 about a mile from us, to withdraw her people 
 from the fhore. 
 
 The carpenter returned about fix o'clock, 
 
 and made a report that every kind of timber 
 
 we wanted, might be procured. 
 
 Friday 8 In the morniiig an officer, with a flrong 
 
 party, was difpatched with the carpenters 
 
 to 
 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 S3 
 
 to cut down feme fpars for top-fail yards, 1788. 
 and fleering fail-booms for the Felice ; and F'^-'^^ary. 
 orders were iflued to the Iphigenia to fend 
 a fimilar party to cut a fore-maft ; in the 
 mean time, the pinnace was employed in 
 founding and furveying the channel, which 
 was found to contain great over-falls, from 
 five to ten, and thirty fathoms at a caft, 
 with a very rocky ground. 
 
 About noon, the carpenters returned on 
 board, having procured a top-fail yard and 
 the booms. They had alfo felled a fore- 
 maft for the Iphigenia. The officer informed 
 us of the lofsof a China-man, who was fup- 
 pofed to have ftrayed into the wooiisj and 
 to have been feized by the Malayans. A 
 numerous band of thefe favages, well armed V 
 after their fafhion, hovered about the ylace 
 where the carpenters were at work, and as 
 we could not procure any intelligence of 
 this poor unfortunate man, there is but too • 
 much reafon to believe that he fell into the 
 hands of the natives. 
 
 At one o'clock a large boat arrived from 
 the governor, who refided at the village, to 
 compliment us on our arrival, and to invite 
 
 D3 US 
 
 u^ 
 
 s 
 
 j._._ •.'.«,;< .--•,.tf>! 
 
 <■ *»»r-Jt,- r^-*»' •. *"»^ ■/>>t\-^^,_^ _ .,3* <— — ■ - •' ■- i, ; ^ i^ 
 
g^ VOYAGESTOTHE 
 
 1788. US to an entertainment which his hofpitallty 
 FeaauARv.had prepared. The officer who was employed 
 to bring this polite Invitation, confirmed the 
 account of the priefts refpe£ling the perfi- 
 dious charader of the natives of the ifland ; 
 and recommended, in the flrongeft terms, 
 that we (hould ufe every poffible precaution 
 when we fent any parties on (hore. He 
 alfo informed us that we might procure any 
 necelTary timber with more eafe and fafety 
 in the neighbourhood of the village, which 
 poflcfled another advantage that might be 
 of great ufe to us, — the being walhed by a 
 rivulet of very fine water. He alfp added, 
 on the part of the governor, that he (hould 
 be happy to give us every afliftance in his 
 power. 
 
 It was, therefore, immediately refolved 
 that the (hips fhould moor nearer to the 
 village ; accordingly at two o'clock the tide 
 making in our favour, both ihips weighed 
 and anchored abreafl: of a large ftone fort, 
 called Fort Caldera, whofe baftions were 
 within an hundred yards of the fea. 
 
 The fort was faluted with nine guns, 
 ^hich compliment was immediately re- 
 turned. 
 
NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 SS 
 
 turned. The body of the village bore North 1-88. 
 by Eaft half Eaft, diftant about a quarter iebrlauv. 
 of a mile ; the extremities of Magindanao 
 Eaft North Eaft, to North North Weft; 
 and the Ifland of Eafilan from South Eaft 
 by Eaft, to South Weft by Weft, diftaut 
 about twelve leagues. 
 
 } .' 
 
 ' ''I 
 ^1 
 
 D4 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 ^*«-- -*-»■« •^•*'*»i*^- iH-'^^tf^ fS4.«^-^-^Tt» 
 
 "v:*'^ 
 
■ V- 
 
 t^.i 
 
 56 
 
 1788. 
 
 Februart, 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 'I 
 
 s 
 
 Saturday 9^ 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Our Reception at Samboingan. — Friendly Beha^ 
 viour of the Governor ^ &c, — He vijits the 
 I Ships, ^c, — The Felice prepares to put to 
 ■ Sea.'^Lofes an Anchor and departs Jor AmC" 
 rica, — Some Account of Magindanao, &c, — 
 j^ronomicai Ohfervations, Anchorage y^c.-^ 
 The Vilhge of Samboingan, — Spanijb Force 
 and Power, — Defcription of a BaH given by 
 the Governor, and the Manners of the People. 
 — l^autical Ohfervaiions on the Pajfage be-' 
 tween the China Seas and the Northern Pa* 
 ; cific Ocean. — Danger rf navigating the China 
 Seas. — Account of the feveral Pajfages be* 
 tween the two Oceans, with Directions, &c. 
 ' — Pajfage between Formofa and the Philips 
 pines. — Bajhee IJles : — Defcription of them. 
 
 THE Governor of Sambolngan, who was 
 a captain in a regiment of infantry at 
 Manilla, received us with the greateft po- 
 litenefs, affured us of every afliftance in his 
 power, and fupplied us, without hefitation, 
 with whatever rtfrefliments the ifland af- 
 forded, — 
 
 •m«&m 
 
 »*%t^-:]:--i4 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA. 
 
 57 
 
 forded. — He was attended by three priefts, jy^S, 
 two of whom were young men, but the third Fibruary. 
 was rather of an advanced age, and had re- 
 fided on that ifland during an uninterrupted 
 courfe of thirty years. 
 
 We were conduced into the fort, which 
 appeared to be in a very ruinous ftate, and 
 were regaled, after the Spani(h falhion, with 
 fweetmeats and cordials ; — a very handfome 
 repaft then fucceeded, to which the major 
 of the country militia, and other officers, 
 were invited. Some of thefe gentlemen were 
 natives of Manilla, and others of Maginda- 
 nao, whofe complexions were fo dark as to 
 approach very nearly to the blacknefs of the 
 African. The priefts enjoyed, as well as 
 enlivened, the hofpitalities of the day, and . 
 did not appear to be of opinion that they - 
 were thrown into that corner of the globe 
 to pafs their time in penitence and prayer. 
 
 The rivulet that flowed through the vil- 
 lage, after wafhing the walls of the fort, 
 emptied itfelf into the fea, at no great dif- 
 tance from our mooring, which afforded us 
 a very convenient opportunity of vatering: 
 we accordingly embraced the occafion to 
 
 replace . 
 
 I \l 
 
 ) ft 
 
 ()■ 
 
 ■\ " * *' 
 
 ^. i 
 
 ' )' 
 
 i^^-j^ 
 
 i>>.* 
 
 =^^^ — ^fc' 
 
 
VOYAGES TO TIIR 
 
 ri 
 
 1788. replace what we had expended of fuch an 
 FiBRWARY. important article. 
 Sunday 10 Oil the 1 0th, the governor was fo very 
 obliging as to permit the two gallies, com- 
 pletely armed, to accompany the boats of 
 both the fhips, that were employed to con- 
 * voy the carpenters on fliore, to cut another 
 
 fore-maft for the Iphigenia in the woods, the 
 firft having been found defective, about a 
 league from the fort. About noon they got 
 under fail, and proceeded with the boats, 
 ^ ' which were alfo well manned and armed. 
 
 We had been aflured that large parties of 
 Malays were always on the watch, either to 
 commit depredations on the people, or to 
 carry off any unguarded flraggler into fla- 
 very, from whence they feldom or ever 
 • efcaped. We were therefore determined to 
 ' be in fuch a ftate of preparation as to fee u re 
 
 the object of our little expedition from being 
 materially interrupted by them. About nine 
 the parties returned with a very fine flick, 
 without having feen the face of an enemy. — 
 In the mean time the other operations were 
 •proceeding, and every preparation making 
 for the continuance of our voyage. At this 
 place, however, ;t was rcfolved that we 
 
 , • , ihouM 
 
 •./ 
 
 ^«-?f-vi;V^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 5? 
 
 (hould feparate. The Iphigcnia could not lygg, 
 have been ready for fea at lead for fomc Fki&uailt. 
 days ; and even that period had become an 
 objedl of Ibme importance, from the prefcnt 
 advanced ftate of the year. The Felice was 
 provided with every thing the could want, 
 and -we therefore prepared to leave Sam- 
 boingan without any farther delay. 
 
 Tianna, and Comekala, the man from 
 King George's Sound, were, (Ince the death 
 of Winee, the only perfons of their refpec- 
 tive countries on board the Felice ; the reft 
 of them were on board the Iphigenia, to 
 which we now configned the amiable chief 
 of Atooi, as her courfe comprehended his 
 native iflands. — Comekala remained with 
 us, as the deftination of our voyage was to 
 his own country. 
 
 Tianna had been fo fenfibly affeftcd by 
 the death of Winee, as to produce a con 11- 
 derable alteration in the ftate of his health : 
 —his fever continued, and baffled all our at- 
 tentions to relieve him. The fame fate that 
 had feparated for ever his unfortunate coun- 
 trywoman from her friends and native land, 
 preffed home upon his reflcdion. — He may 
 be fuppofed to have fc't, and fometimes, 
 ' , perhaps. 
 
 I 
 
 111 
 
 I 
 
 't.r- 
 

 f 
 
 i'' I: 
 
 ) 
 
 ! 
 
 { (A 
 
 \ \') 
 
 \ 
 
 (^O 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788, perhaps, expedited that he might hear no 
 February, more the teii J'^r names of father or of huf- 
 band ; — that he might (hare with Winee a 
 premature grave in the bofom of the ocean, 
 — He was therefore conHgned to the care of 
 Captain Douglas, with the hopes that the 
 V remaining on fhore till his departure, with 
 the novelty of the fcenes around him, might 
 abate hisdiforder, and recruit his fpirits with 
 afufficient degree of ftrength to bear out the 
 remainder of the voyage. 
 
 On the evening of this day, we received 
 on board four fine buffaloes, with grafs and 
 plantain trees for them and our other cattle : 
 — to thefe were alfo added a quantity of rice, 
 ^ ^ vegetables, and fruit, with feveral very fine 
 hogs ; and it was our defign to put to fea 
 without delay : but the wind fpringing up 
 from the South Eaft, and the weather ap- 
 pearing very gloomy and unfettled, our de- 
 parture was deferred to the following day. 
 
 As we had now an opportunity to make 
 the governor fome acknowledgment for his 
 very friendly attentions, an officer was dif- 
 patched with a melTage of thanks for his 
 kindnefs to us, accompanied with an invi- 
 tation to partake of a repaft the next day on 
 
 ... board 
 
 -r-M 
 

 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA* 
 
 6i 
 
 board the (hips, which he very readily ac- 1 788. 
 ceptcd. In return for which compliment, februart. 
 he requefted our prefence at a ball that even- 
 ing ; fome account of which will be given 
 when I come to mention the (late, &c. of 
 the ifland, and its inhabitants. 
 
 At the time appointed, the governor made Monday i» 
 us the promifed vifit, attended by the three 
 padres, and the major of militia ; and we 
 exerted ourfelves to the utmoft in our enter- 
 tainment, to manifeft a proper fenfibility to 
 the friendfhip he had (hewn us. The priefts 
 enjoyed themfelves on board the (hips as they 
 had done on (hore; and joined in one com- 
 mon fentiment, that nothing tends fo much 
 as wine and good cheer to annihilate the 
 force of religious diftin£lions. — The gover- 
 nor and his fuite left us with the moft cor- T 
 dial expre(fions of fatisfa£lion at our recep- 
 tion of them. 
 
 At four o'clock, the tide making in our 
 favour, with a fre(h breeze from the north- 
 ward, we hove (hort ; but had the misfor^ 
 tune to find that our anchor had hooked a 
 rock ; nor could our (itmoft endeavours dif^ 
 entangle it from its hold, and heaving rather - 
 a ftrain, the cable gave way, and we irre- 
 
 ' •' parably 
 
 
 m 
 
 I i 
 
 m 
 1)'' 
 
 ,1 
 

 
 M} 1 
 
 
 W' 1 
 
 
 If 
 
 
 1,1 
 
 
 1^ VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. parably loft it. The (hip was immediately 
 FsBRUARY. got under fail, and pafling dofe to the Iphi- 
 genia, fhe gave us three cheers, which , we 
 immediately returned. She had her old 
 fore-maftout, and her carpenters were bufi- 
 ly employed in preparing the new one on 
 * ihore. 
 
 The very fhort time we remained at Sam- 
 boingan did not give us a fufficient opportu- 
 nity to acquire any other knowledge of this 
 fettlemcnt than fucK as we received from 
 the general information of others. But as 
 this place is fo much out of the way of 
 '■ fhipping and commerce, I ftiall not hefitate 
 
 . ' to repeat ^he account I received from the 
 communications of the old padre, whofe au- 
 thority may, after all, be confidered as of 
 fome reliance, from his very long and con- 
 .' tinual refidence on this ifland. 
 
 Magindanao is an ifland of confiderable 
 extent, being about 120 miles in breadth, and 
 160 in length, and is blefled with a fertile, 
 luxuriant foil, — The interior parts contain 
 feveral chains of lofty mountains, between 
 which are extenlive plains, where vaft herds 
 of cattle roam at large in the moft delicious 
 paftures. Several deep vallies alfo interfedt, 
 -.= ..■• ^ ■' • as 
 
 -y^3rf:f',r' 
 
 jSisiS^S!^" 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA., ^a 
 
 as it were, certain parts of the country, 1^88. 
 through which, during the rainy feafons, FEBauA&T. 
 vdft torrents pour from the mountains, and 
 force, their impetuous way to the fea. The 
 rains and vapours which lodge in the plains, 
 difFufe themfelves into meandering rivulets, 
 and colle<Sbing a variety of^iiaall ftreams in 
 their courfe, approach the fea in the form of 
 confiderable rivers. 
 
 About the middle of the ifland there are 
 feveral lakes of no fmall extent, of which, 
 however, we received no other particulars 
 than that their borders are inhabited by tribes 
 of favage natives, who live in a great mea- 
 fure by plundering thofe who dwell nearer 
 to the fea. The people confider themfelves 
 as free and independent of the Sovereign of 
 Magindanao, are of a fierce, implacable na- '^ 
 ture, and wage continual war with the Ma- 
 hometans, who compofe the principal inha- 
 bitants of the ifland. They are called Hil- 
 loonas, and profefs no kind of religion, but 
 live in a ftate of profound ignorance and 
 barbarifm. . i. . ,.a/;-. 
 
 The fovereign of Magindanao is a power- 
 ful prince, and has feveral inferior chiefs 
 who acknowledge him as their head. Ne- 
 
 vertbelefs 
 
 .It 
 
 \ 0' 
 

 f¥: ii >' 
 
 H f 
 
 V! 
 
 64 VOYAGES TO THfe . 
 
 K788. verthelefs there are others of them who re- 
 fmrvakt. fufe fubmiflion to him, andiil-e confequently 
 in a coiithiual ftate of wdr ; fo that peace, 
 at leaft, does not appear to be one of the 
 bleflings of this ifland. The Spaniards, m- 
 deed, aflert their right to the entire dominion 
 of Magindanao, but it is mere alTertion ; for 
 though they have thefe forts, &c. on the 
 ifland, it is by no means in a flate of fub- 
 jeftion to their nation. 
 
 The city of Magindanao is (ituated on the 
 South Eaft fide of the ifland, has a river 
 capable of admitting fmall veflels, and car- 
 ries on a confiderable trade with Manilla, 
 Sooloo, Borneo, and the Moluccas. Their 
 exports are rice, tobacco, bees- wax and 
 fpices ; in return for which they receive 
 coarfe cloths of Coromandel, China-ware 
 and opium. 
 
 This city ufed formerly to be vifited by 
 European veflels of fmall burthen ; but it 
 was a confiderable time fince any of them 
 had been there. The governor informed us, 
 that the Iphigenia and the Felice were the 
 only European fliips that had been feen in 
 thefe feas during a courfe of feveral years. 
 
 The 
 
 
Km 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^^ 
 
 The Mahometati religion is profeffed 1788. 
 throughout the ifland, except by the Hil- February. 
 loonas, who, as we have already obferved, 
 are governed by no religious principles,— 
 pra£life no form of worfhip, — and live in a 
 Hate of favage freedom. 
 
 Thefe people are called by the Spaniards, 
 Negros del Monte, or Negroes of the Moun- 
 tain, on account of their refemblance to the 
 race of Africa, both in their perfons and 
 manners. They are fuppofed to be the ori- 
 ginal lords of Magindanao, and, indeed, of 
 all the Philippines ; the Ifla de Negros, or 
 Ifle of Negroes, is, in particular, entirely 
 peopled by them, where they are at conftant 
 enmity with the Spaniards. The Mahome- 
 tan natives of the ifland are a robuft people, t 
 of a deep copper colour, and are efteemed 
 intelligent merchants. 
 
 If the Hilloonas are believed to have been 
 the original inhabitants of Magindanao, it 
 is very reafonable to fuppole that they fled 
 to the mountains to preferve their liberty, 
 when they were invaded by the Mahome- 
 tan hefts, which fpread like locufts, during 
 the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, over 
 the Eaftern Archipelago. Their favage ig- 
 
 VoL. I. . Jl * noraikce 
 
 H 
 
 \\\ 
 

 66 
 
 •VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. norance and barbarous difpofitions feem to 
 FsBRUARY. have become fo habitual, as to leave them 
 without the leaft defire, or, perhaps, without 
 even the leaft idea of any fuperior degree of 
 jntelledual nature. The miffionaries whom 
 the Zi.al for infidel converfion, fo well known 
 in the Roman Catholic Church, employed 
 to preach Chriftianity to thefe inhuman 
 people, were inftantly feized and murdered 
 . ' by them. ' ^ 
 
 The ifland is well wooded ; many parts 
 of it towards the fea-coaft, are covered with 
 -J impenetrable forefts : in others, the woods 
 
 are fcattered with a pleafing irregularity, 
 contributing not only to the beauty of the 
 country, but to its comfort and convenience, 
 by (hading the hills and vallies from the 
 fcorching heat of the fun. The fpecies of 
 trees that are moft abundant, are the teake, 
 ' V the poone, and the larch ; but its moft va- 
 luable and precious growth, ;s the cinnamon 
 tree, which is to b^ found in every part of 
 the ivand, and is of a quality by no means 
 inferior to that of Ceylon. We received 
 famples frefli from the tree, that poffefled a 
 delicacy of tafte and fragrance equal to any 
 that is brought from thence. Our good 
 •.'/ /t ,..:,. ' , friend 
 
itORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^j 
 
 friend the padre was fo kind as to procure 1788. 
 us forty young plants of the true cinnamon f«bruaiiy. 
 tree, which were intended for the Sandwich 
 Iflands. 
 
 The air of Magindanao is efteemed falu* 
 brious, particularly in the vicinity of the fea. 
 The heat there is not, in any degree, fo in-^ 
 tenfe as might ' j expefted, in a country 
 which is fituated on the very verge of the 
 torrid zone. I do not recoiled to have feen 
 the thermometer at more than eighty-eight 
 degrees, and it was very often fo low as 
 feventy-two. The prevalence of the Eafter- 
 ly winds on that part of the coaft which 
 is walhed by the Pacific Ocean, renders the 
 air cool and pleafant, the trade- wind blowing 
 inceffantly on its (hores. It a£ts, indeed, 
 with fo much power as to fweep the whole 
 breadth of the ifland; and though in its 
 paflage it lofes much of its ftrength, it 
 retains a fufficient degree of force to afford 
 refreftiing breezes to the inhabitants of the 
 Weftern (hore. The interior parts are much 
 colder, from a very cloudy atmofphere, 
 which frequently hangs over the fummits of 
 the mountains in thick and humid vapours. 
 
 E2 The 
 
 
 'p 
 
 
63 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 I 1 
 
 1788. The foil, which is very exuberant, is 
 Febhuart. fuited to the cultivation of the whole ve- 
 getable tribes. Rice is produced in the great- 
 eft abundance ; a pecul, or 1331b. maybe 
 purchafed for a Spanifti dollar. 
 
 The yam and fweet potatoe are cultivated 
 in the higheft perfection. Here are alfo to 
 ■ be found the cocoa nut, pumble-nofe, man- 
 goes, the jack, the plantain, oranges, limes, 
 , and, in ftiort, every fruit that is produced 
 in climates of the fame parallel. — Indeed, 
 nature has been extremely bountiful to the 
 inhabitants, in producing for them the great 
 variety of tropical productions, without any 
 demand upon their toil and labour, 
 r ' Here are alfo gold mines, which are fup- 
 pofed to be of confiderable value ; — and it 
 may be naturally Imagined that a knowledge 
 or fufpicion of this circumftance firft induced 
 the Spaniards to fettle on this ifland :— but 
 as the natives are ignorant of the art of 
 forming mines, they remain unexplored by 
 them ; and, as we were informed, little, if 
 any gold has been obtained, but what has 
 been waftied down by the autumnal torrents 
 from the mountains which the Hilloonas 
 inhabit, and who are in poflelHon of thofe 
 V'-' '. -^ ,. '■ , ' $ ' ■ parts 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^g 
 
 parts which are believed to contain the pre- 1788. 
 cious ore. — But thefe mountaineers are too February. 
 numerous and refolute to reHgii a fituation 
 they have maintained (o long, without a 
 fevere and blooiiy ftruggle, and the Spanifti 
 power is, at prefent, far too feeble to make 
 any attempt to diflodge them. 
 
 Every part of the ifland abounds with 
 buffaloes, cows, hogs, goats, &c. — It affords 
 alfo great variety of fowls, and a fpecics 
 of duck, whofe' head is of a fine fcarlet co- 
 lour. Here are alfo a fmall breed of horfes, 
 remarkable for their fpirit. The natives, 
 however,principalIy employ buffaloes in the 
 various branches of hufbaadry and agri- 
 culture. 
 
 I'he people of Magindanao univerfally 
 chew the betel and areka, but make a more 1 
 moderate ufe of opium than any other in- 
 habitants of the Eaftern feas. 
 
 The proas of the Malayans are numerous < 
 and powerful ; they carry from fifty to two 
 hundred men ; and the confequence of their 
 defultory expeditions is bloodflied, carnage, 
 and captivity to the people of the defence- 
 lefs towns and villages wJiom they furprize, 
 
 E3 or 
 
 m 
 
 Hr A«fc#—r, 
 
 
 •T"''^r"' 
 
»,Q VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. or the unfortunate crews of veflels which 
 February, tjjgy jj^^y chance to Capture. 
 
 The village or town of Samboingan is 
 iituated on the banks of a fmall rivulet, 
 , which empties itfelf immediately into the 
 fea; and is agreeably (haded by groves of 
 cocoa-trees. The number of its inhabitants 
 are about one thoufand, among which are in- 
 cluded the officers, foldiers, and their re- 
 fpeftive families. In its environs there are 
 • feveral fmall look-out houfes, ere£ted on 
 pofts of twelve feet high, in all of which a 
 . '- conftant guard is kept ; fo that it appears as 
 
 if the Spaniards were in a continual ftate of 
 enmity with the natives. 
 
 The houfes are built of thofe fimple ma- 
 terials which are of very general ufe in the 
 ; • i Eaftern feas. They are ere^led on pofts, 
 and built of bamboo, covered with mats : — 
 the lower apartments ferve for their hogs, 
 cattle and poultry, and the upper ones are 
 occupied by the family. Nor did it a little 
 excite our aftonifhment, that the Spaniards, 
 -.-'■ inftead of creating an emulation and im- 
 ' ' provement among the natives, from their 
 
 own fuperior knowledge of the arts and con- 
 veniencies of life, fhould infenlibly (ink into 
 / the 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. -, 
 
 the manners and cuftoms of the very people i^gs. 
 whofeignorancethcy afFe<5l todefplfc. But, itBRVAnr 
 though their houfes have but little to boafl", 
 their piety has produced a decent church, 
 which is built of ftone. The fort is a very 
 poor place of defence ; and is, as far as wc 
 could judge, in an abfolute ftate of decay ; 
 for the governor's cautious fpirit took care 
 to keep us from any particular examination 
 of it. — Towards the land, its whole defence 
 confifted of a fimple barrier, with two or 
 three pieces of cannon. — To a very mo- 
 derate force, indeed, this place would be- 
 come an eafy capture. Indeed, the Felice 
 and Iphigenia might, without any afli fiance, 
 have rendered the Spanifii power very pre- 
 carious in this fettlement. — The military 
 force confifted of from one hundred and 
 fifty to two hundred foldiers, natives of Ma- 
 nilla, in which place alfo, the governor . .. 
 himfelf was born. They appeared to be in 
 a ftate of difcipline by no means unworthy 
 of the fortrefs which they garrifoned. 
 
 Samboingan is the Botany Bay of the 
 Philippines, and crimes of a certain nature 
 are puniflied there by banifhment to this 
 place. — We did not fee any of the del in - 
 
 E 4 quent?, 
 
 f 
 
 I 
 
 
 ihi^l 
 
 L.^ 
 

 j2 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 I yi9* quents, but we had reafon to {u(pt€t that 
 Feiruary. there were fevcral in fome kind of dole con- 
 finement. 
 
 Inconfiderable, however, as this fettlemcnt 
 may appear, the governor is fuppofed to 
 clear thirty thoufand dollars in the three 
 years of his refidence there. This advantage 
 he derives from furnifhing the foldiers with 
 cloathing and provifion, — from gold du ft, 
 cinnamon, fpices, and other contraband 
 goods. 
 
 The conduct of the inhabitants was go- 
 verned by the moft plcafing decorum, for 
 which they are folcly indebted to the civi- 
 lizing fpirit of the old padre; as his two 
 fellow-labourers in the fplrltual vineyard, 
 were rather calculated to deprave, than im- 
 prove the poor people committed to their 
 charge* — Indeed, the former was of that 
 . . amiable, conciliating difpofition, which is fo 
 
 well adapted to the cultivation of favage 
 manners. — We were equally furprized at 
 ' hearing a very tolerable band of mufic, which 
 was compofed of natives of the country. — 
 It confifted of four violins, two baffoons, 
 with feveral flutes and mandolins. This 
 •unexpected orcheftra were acquainted with 
 
 Ibme 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. yj 
 
 fome of the felciSt pieces of Handel ; they 1 788. 
 knew many of our I-nglifti country dances, FfBRUAtr. 
 and fcvcnil of our p'.pular and favourite 
 tun-s; but in performing the Fandango, 
 th y iiad attanied a degree of excellence that 
 the nice ft ea.s of Spain would have heard 
 with pleafurc. The Malayans poflefs, in 
 common with other favage nations, a fen- 
 fibility to the charms of mufic, an»i are 
 even capable of attaining CO no inconfid'^'ab^c 
 degree of perfedion in that d'jii(jlutul fci^ 
 cnce. 
 
 The good old prieft had aUb t.iurl'<: the 
 greater part of the town to dance j ib thi,t 
 the inhabitants of this iiilaa!: ard >.»afre- 
 quented fpot, poflefled two ami 'cmcnts 
 which are the beft calculated to enlivca the 
 dull, or footh the melancholy hours of iif^* 
 On the evening previous to cur dcpartunij, 
 the governor, as we have already meiilioned, 
 gave us another proof of his polite and hoA 
 pitable difpofition, by preparing a ball ex* 
 prefsly for our amufement. 
 
 About eight o'clock in the evening, the 
 company met at the governor's houie The 
 ladies, who were efcortfid by a number of 
 young men of Samboir^an, were dreifed after 
 
 the '■ 
 
 -v-, ,« » 
 
 hi 
 
!,■? ! '' 
 
 -- . VOYAGESTOTHE 
 
 1788. *^® manner of the ifland, which borders on> 
 February, as we may fuppofe it to be borrowed, from 
 the fafliions of Manilla. It confifted of a 
 veil which fell gracefully to the ancles, and 
 was fo arranged as to heighten real charms, 
 * and to make one fancy beauty even where 
 
 nature had denied it. The arms alone were 
 bare; but the folds were fo contrived as 
 half to difcover the bofom, while the en- 
 tire figure, in all the fimplicity of nature, 
 could not be defcribed as being concealed 
 from the exploring eye. — ^Their ancles and 
 wrifts were adorned with bracelets of gold, 
 which gave, as may be fuppofed, fomewhat 
 of a richnefs to an appearance that was al- 
 ready elegant. Many of them were extremely 
 handfbme; nor did certain arch looks, which 
 appeared to be habitual, though they were 
 heightened by the dance, render them lefs 
 agreeable. The Fandango was performed 
 in its utmoft perfe<5lion ; — the minuet was 
 not difgraced by their motions, — and En- 
 glifli country dances, fcveral of which were 
 performed in compliment to us, have been 
 often exhibited with far lefs grace and agi- 
 lity in many of our beft affemblies, than 
 in this diilant and remote corner of the 
 ' ■ , '' ' . Philip- 
 
 #! 
 
 m^ 
 
NORTH AVEST COAST OF AMERICA. y^ 
 
 Philippine Iflands. — This amufement lafted 1788. 
 till twelve o'clock, when all the company Februart. 
 retired, with every appearance of the moft ., 
 perfeft fatisfadlion. 
 
 For fuch means of innocent amufement, 
 the people are indebted to the venerable 
 padre, who himfelf joined in the dance. In- 
 deed it would have been not only to the 
 honour of Spain, but of the religion it pro- 
 fefles, if fuch men had been employed » 
 who, like this amiable prieft, could make 
 their miflions a fource of comfort and happi- 
 nefs, inftead of accompanying them with 
 that feverity of difcipline, and cruelty of 
 compulfion, which renders converfion infin- 
 cere or mifunderftood, and is in fuch dire£t 
 oppofition to the mild and benevolent fpiric 
 of Chriftianity. 
 
 The governor, however, with all his ci- 
 vility, would not permit us to land any in- 
 ftruments, in order to make agronomical 
 obfervations ; we were therefore obliged, 
 under confiderable difadvantages, to take 
 them on board the (hips. 
 
 The latitude of the anchoring ground 
 was, by the medium of feveral good meri- 
 dian obfervations, 6° 58' North, and the 
 
 ^ loiigi- 
 
 
 n 
 
 
.i ^\: 
 
 
 fi 
 
 «5 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. longitude, by twenty obferved diftances of 
 
 ft9KVA%y. the fun and moon, taken by good fextants, 
 
 122% 28' Eaft of Greenwich. At this time 
 
 the flag-ftaff on the fort bore North half 
 
 Eaft, diiiant half a mile. 
 
 The anchorage before the fort is foul and 
 rocky : a-breaftof the town it is much bet- 
 ter; a fandy bottom and well Iheltered, 
 1 except from the South Weft quarter, and 
 
 even then the wind has not fufficient range 
 to produce a fea, or to be attended with 
 any circumftance of danger. 
 It will not, I truft, be contliered as foreign 
 to the defign of this work, if I interrupt the 
 progrefs of my voyage, for a few pages, to 
 offer fuch obfcrvations and notices as 1 had 
 occafion to make on the paflage between the 
 ^ Northern Pacific Ocean and the China feas ; 
 
 fome knowledge of which courfe, whether 
 it be purfued to the Northward or South- 
 ward of the Philippines, muft be of confi- 
 derable ufe to Oriental commerce, and be 
 . particularly eifential to ihips that take the 
 Eaftern paflage to China, which is occa- 
 fionally preferred, particularly during a war, 
 ' by thofe who are bound to the port of Can- 
 
 ton, in the North Eaft Monfoon. 
 ' , » L Nautical 
 
 ■( |**f- yiM »^»» w^ T. nis^ ^^«*-*.*v,i^-ito^^ J, 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. yy 
 
 Nautical obfervatlons are, at all times, i^gS. 
 of thegreateft importance, and we offer fuch Februart. 
 as we have made, to the judicious reflection 
 of thofe who may be particularly interefted 
 in them. It muft, indted, be confidered, that 
 although in the track of the Felice and the 
 Iphigenia acrofs the China feas, along the 
 Philippines into the Pacific, no dangers were 
 vifible to us ; yet others, purfuing this route, 
 may be lefs fortunate, as this very track is 
 generally defcribed as abounding with many. 
 We indeed found a clear navigation, nor 
 have we any reafon to doubt, but that, with 
 a proper degree of precaution, fhips might 
 find a fafe and eafy entrance into the China 
 feas by Magindanao and the channel of 
 Bafilan, ' ' 
 
 The Eaftern feas are certainly fet thick 
 with perils, which, of courfe, render their 
 navigation exceedingly precarious ; nor are 
 the difficulties of it leflened by the circum- 
 ftance that thofe perils are, in a great degree, 
 unknown. Ships, indeed, which purfue the 
 common track acrofs the China feas, with 
 the South Weft Monfoon, have not much 
 to fear, if they do but make the different 
 iflands to procure frelh departures.— Lunar 
 
 obferva- 
 
 i. 
 
 r#w 
 
pi ' l'^ 
 
 1 
 
 ! 
 
 i' 
 
 
 < /, 
 
 I ; 
 
 «3 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. obfervations cannot at all times be taken, a 
 February, circiunftance which (hould animate vigilance 
 and quicken precaution ; of which, too much 
 cannot be exercifed in this arduous navi- 
 gation. 
 
 It would, by no means, be prudent for 
 Ihips to work up the China feas againft 
 the North Eaft Monfoon ; and it would, of 
 courfe, be equally hazardous to work down 
 them during the bio /ing of the South Weft. 
 The currents are in fuch number, and withal 
 fo various, that a fhip is imperceptibly hur- 
 ried into the midft of danger, in which 
 the utmoft Ikill and adlivity will be feldom 
 able, even in copper-bottomed veflels, to 
 efcape deftru£lion. 
 
 It is true, that there have been examples 
 of ftiips who have accompliflied their voy- 
 age againft the reigning winds ; but they 
 Ihould rather be reprefented as extraordi- 
 nary inftances of good fortune, from having 
 efcaped a variety of dangers, any one of 
 which might have proved fatal, than be 
 cited to encourage others to purfue a fimilar 
 navigation : for, beiides the rilks of a voy- 
 age, even if it ftiould be performed under 
 thefe circumftances, the chances are vtrj 
 •.. . v' much 
 
 w 
 
 f I 
 
 %! 
 
NpRTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. mg 
 
 much againft the poflibility of doing it, 1788. 
 when the monfoons blow ftrong either one Fkbruarv. 
 way or the other. 
 
 As (hips, even in the periodical winds, 
 are expofed to dangers, it is effentially ne- 
 ceffary that they ihould, at all times, be 
 provided with a couple of chronometers ; 
 by the aid of which inftruments the pbfi- 
 tions of (hips may be afcertained ; for as 
 they are liable to flop, ihould fuch an ac- 
 cident happen to one of them, the portion 
 of time elapfed, may be determined by the 
 other, particularly if they are obferved 
 every four hours, — a circumftance which 
 fhould be an obje£t of the moft careful at- 
 tention. Their regularity alfo fhould be 
 examined and proved at every place where 
 the (hip ftops a fufficient time to make the 
 neceffary trial. 
 
 There are many recent inftances of very 
 fatal accidents which have happened to 
 velTels, during the regular monfoons, from 
 the want of thefe very ufeful inftruments. 
 _..., The (liip Hornby, bound from Canton 
 to Bombay, in the month of December, > 
 1788, in a gale of wind, fell in with the .} 
 
 ifland Pula Sapata, in the China feas, and 
 
 was 
 
 '..^i 
 

 '■ i s 
 V 
 
 i: 
 
 I ' 
 
 i \ 
 
 ! 
 
 \ ' 
 'I \ 
 
 So 
 
 VdYAGfES TO fHB 
 
 1788. was witkiii a moment of being daihed to 
 FsnuA^RY. pieces. She wa$ (o clofe to the land, that 
 nothing could have faved her but the violent 
 rebound of the furge from the fide of a rock ; 
 when, by being extremely alert in fetting 
 fail, (he moft fortunately got round it. 
 
 A Dutch (hip in the fame year, was loft 
 
 on the Prata fhoal ; her crew was faved 
 
 . Ml the long-boat, and got fafe to Canton. 
 
 ^ In the year 1789, and fome time in the 
 
 month of June, the (hip Lizard, bound 
 
 from Bombay to Canton, was wrecked on 
 
 the Lincoln (hoal. The captain and feven 
 
 men were all which were faved of her crew. 
 
 ' ' After undergoing the greateft hard(hips and 
 
 diftrefs in a fmall boat, they arrived at 
 
 Canton. 
 
 The x4.rgyle(hire, a large country (hip, 
 bound from Bengal to China, was luppofed 
 to have been loft fome where in the China 
 leas. 
 
 The number of Spanifh and Portuguefe 
 
 ihips which have been loft in thefe feas al(b 
 
 are by no means inconfiderable; fo that too 
 
 much vigilance and precaution cannot be 
 
 , ' employed in fuch an hazardous navigation. 
 
 ' '•:■' ,. -;. ,, ^ The 
 
 di 
 
 « I 
 
 V) 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERIQA. 
 
 di 
 
 The fhip Cornwallis, of eight hundred iy88. 
 tons burthen, commanded by Captam Wil- i-EBRUAKt. 
 liam Counfill, failed down the Chir»a feas 
 on her voyage to Bengal, in the month of 
 May 1789, when it was to be fuppofed 
 that the South Weft Monfoon was fet in, 
 and encountered fuch a variety of fhoals, 
 rocks and iflands, that her efcape was con- 
 iidered as miraculous. And had (he not 
 been uncommonly well appointed, and na- 
 vigated with fuperior Ikill and ability, in 
 all probability fhe would never have reached 
 Bengal. < • ' 
 
 As the following Extra£l of a Lettet 
 from on board this (hip may be of conll- 
 derable ufe to future navigators of thefe 
 parts, no apology can be confidered as ne- _, . 
 ceffary for the infertion of it : ^ 
 
 *« Malacca, July ^^ 1789. 
 
 "WE arrived here on the 27th of 
 
 June, after a paffage of forty- five days, 
 
 *' from China, which we confider as ex- 
 
 ** tremely tedious for fo prime a failer as 
 
 ** the Cornwallis. In our paffage down. 
 
 Vol. I. F. *' we 
 
 <c 
 
 i 
 
 m 
 
 S - ■. 
 
 m 
 
 I •■ 
 
 
 \ ■ 
 
 
 
 
 f .- 
 
 
 ) I 
 
 
 J 
 
 -^J 
 
■,': 
 
 II 
 
 ; 
 s 
 
 i 
 
 ii- 
 (1 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 I ;■ 
 
 'jf 
 
 * 
 
 IH 
 
 S2 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. ** we had an aftonifhing fet to the Eaft* 
 FtBKUARY. t« ward : we could not make either the 
 ** Macclesfield or Pula Sapata. The firft 
 " land that appeared to view was on the 
 «* «8th of May, bearing South Weft half 
 *' South, diftant four leagues, with a reef of 
 ** dangerous rocks and breakers, which we 
 '* fuppofed to be the Andrades, being nearly 
 ** in the latitude of them. — At half paft 
 ** tvvd, P. M. a (hoal was feen from the 
 " deck, bearing South Weft half Weft, 
 diftant two miles ; and at four, ftanding 
 to the South Eaft, we were obliged to 
 tack for another (hoal, bearing South 
 Eaft by Eaft, diftant two miles. On 
 ** the South Eaft end of this Ihoal, is a 
 ** low fandy ifland, on which we faw the 
 appearance of a wreck: the weather was 
 very fqually ; during the night we deem- 
 ed it prudent to ftand under an eafy fail 
 to the Northward, fearing this chain of 
 ftioals might extend more to the South : 
 the next morning atda}'-break, we wore 
 " and ftood to the (hoals, and at ten, A. M. 
 " made them. We were then obliged to 
 *' haul to the Eaftward and Eaft North 
 " Eaft, till three P. M. and thus, by de- 
 • V '■ ** grees 
 
 i( 
 
 (( 
 
 <( 
 
 <( 
 
 «( 
 
 ce 
 
 ic 
 
 « 
 
 it 
 
 (< 
 
 II 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 (( 
 
 cc 
 
 grces, to clear the difFerent (hoals which iy88. 
 prefented themfelves to our view ; eleven February, 
 •* of them forming a deep circle or curve, 
 •• and are backed to the Weftward by very 
 ** cxtenfive branches. They appear to ex- 
 *• tend from each extreme, Eaft North Eaft, 
 " to Weft South Weft, and about twenty- 
 ** five miles in extent : and what adds to 
 " the danger in making them is, that they 
 " are even with the furface of the water, 
 •* which if fmooth and unruffled, they can- 
 ** not be feen, there not being a rock about 
 <* them but the firft. 
 
 *• After clearing this reef, we fteered to 
 ** the Southward ; and the next day found 
 •* ourfelves in a clear fea. 
 
 " On the 30th at noon, breakers were 
 " feen bearing North Weft by North, dif- 
 tant eight or nine miles. This reef ap- 
 peared to trend the fame as the laft, and 
 has dangerous rocks along the edge : its 
 extent is about three leagues: when the 
 " reef was feen, we were in the latitude of 
 8° 47' North, by a good obfervation ; and 
 by ieveral fights of the fun and moon, 
 the longitude was 114° 14', 45'' Eaft, 
 *' which made us feventy-two miles to the 
 
 F 2 , . " Eaft - 
 
 «( 
 
 (( 
 
 it 
 
 « 
 
 it 
 
 f< 
 
 it 
 
 1 
 
 i. 
 
 i 
 
 > i"- 
 
 %. 
 
 ^ 
 
84 
 1788. 
 
 February. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 Eafl of our accounts. After clearing thefe 
 (hoals» we flood to the South Wefl; 
 when, on the morning of the 4th of 
 June, at five A. M. a low fandy ifland 
 was difcovered with a rock on it : this we 
 faw very plain from the quarter-deck ; 
 and before we could alter the fhip*s courfe, 
 we were within three quarters of a mile 
 of a moft dangerous reef of rocks, which 
 juft prefented themfelves above the water. 
 We had a fine breeze during the night, 
 and were going five or fix knots an hour, 
 but fortunately it died away about four 
 in the morning ; fo that half an hour 
 more of dark, or the continuance of this 
 breeze, would have been our inevitable 
 deftru(£lion. This reef trends North North 
 Weft, and South South Eaft, and is five 
 miles long. Its latitude is 7° 52' North, 
 and its longitude nearly 112° 32' Eaft. 
 From our providential efcape, we called 
 the ifland Providence Ifland, and the reef, 
 Sebaftian's Reef. 
 
 *' The many dangers we have been ex- 
 pofed to, has made it exceedingly fa- 
 tiguing : — At laft we made the Natumas 
 
 " and 
 
 
 • "i- 
 
 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. g^ 
 
 •' and Anambas, which arc both egregioufly i-gg, 
 ** miftakcn, both in latitude and longitude." February 
 
 It appears therefore to be ad vi fable for 
 (hips bound to China from Europe, if they 
 do not reach the Straits of Sunda in the 
 month of September, to determine on the 
 Eaftern paflage, in order to avoid the diffi- 
 culties we have juft defcribed ; for, though 
 the Eaft-hidia (hips Walpole, Belvedere and 
 Walfingham, arrived in China in the month 
 of November, 1787, it is a rilk that can 
 never be juftified but by the moft urgent 
 neceffity. 
 
 The Walfingham came up along the coaft 
 of Borneo, and was even favoured with a gale 
 of wind at South Weft, on the coaft of the 
 Philippines, but neverthelefs efcapcd fuch "j^, 
 dangers as no prudent man would wi(h to 
 re-encountcr. — The Walpole reached the 
 coaft of Luconia, and made a good paflage, 
 though Captain Churchill found it equally 
 dangerous; while the Belvedere, Captain 
 Greer, puftied at once through the China 
 feas, though the monfoon was fuppofed to 
 have fet ftrongly in. 
 
 Thefe are inftances of good fortune, which 
 are rather to be confidcrcd as happy efcapes 
 
 1 L ' 1 
 
 V. 
 
 H 
 
 F 
 
 from 
 
86 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 
 H 
 
 :■ «• 
 
 1^88. from danger, than examples to imitate:-— 
 FrBRUARY. for it would furely be much more prudent 
 to determine on an Eaftern paflkge, particu- 
 larly if Java- head is not reached by the tenth 
 of 0£tober. 
 
 The flraits of Balli or Alias may, in this 
 cafe, be fafely pafled, as Mr. Dalrymple's 
 charts are very accurate; from thence the 
 courfe is continued to the MacafTar Straits, 
 employing every necefl'ary precaution on ac- 
 count of the iflands and fhoals that lie 
 between thofe ft raits. 
 
 The ftraits of Macaflar are not without 
 dangers, though they arc but few, and well 
 afcertained ; the Experiment and Captain 
 Cook pafled through them, and made very 
 good obfervations on their paflTage*. The 
 Experiment, indeed, got on (hore, and re- 
 ceived fome little damage. In the North 
 Weft Monfoon there is generally a current 
 fetting through to the Southward ; the wa- 
 ters from the Pacific Ocean and Sooloo Ar- 
 chipelago being confined here, form, in ge- 
 neral, this Southerly drift. In the paflage of 
 
 * Thefe fhips were bound on a trading voyage, from 
 Bombay to the North Weft coaft of America, in 1786. 
 
 the 
 
NORTH WEST C.OAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 8/ 
 
 the flraits the winds are variable; but when 1788. 
 it is cleared, they will be found to the Eaft i kbruarv. 
 and Ead South Eafl ; and there is then little 
 or no reafon to doubt the being able to reach 
 up under the fhore of Magindanao, which 
 is preferable to the ifland of Sooloo : here, 
 at times, the winds are Wefterly, particu- 
 larly in November and Decembjr ; the 
 making Sooloo, therefore, would be attended 
 with difadvantagcs, as the currents and 
 winds might render it difficult to get up to 
 Magindanao, independent of a number of 
 dangerous (hoals and coral reefs, that arc 
 fcattered between Sooloo and Bafilan : where- 
 as, between the head of the MacafTar Straits 
 and the South Eaftern extremity of Magin- 
 danao, there is no wtry imminent danger. — 
 We failed through this channel, between Je- 
 lolo and the ifland of Morintay, and re-en- 
 tered the Pacific Ocean to the Southward of 
 this ifland. 
 
 The currents here fet South Wefl, and 
 with the wind to the Eaftward ; it is ncver- 
 thelefs very pra6licable to reach tlic ifland of - 
 
 Bafilan, and, of courfe, Samboiiigan, where < 
 
 every neceflar\' refrefliment is to be prccured. 
 
 We then fl:ccrcd our courfe to 
 
 F4 
 
 >anguii 
 
 il 
 
 thoft 
 
 \ 
 
 -i ■* - i^ 
 
 l\ r,-^..-.,^. 
 
^rr 
 
 88 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 ? 1 ' 
 
 ^- 
 
 1788. thofe fmall Iflaiids which lie between it and 
 Februartt. the Southern extremity of Magindanao. Thefe 
 iflands are tolerably high, and well wooded, 
 and furrounded with no danger but what ig 
 apparent, and therefore may be avoided. 
 Sanguir is well inhabited, and affords re- 
 frefhments of various kinds. It is alfo faid 
 to abound in fpices, with which it carries 
 on a trade with Magindanao. We found 
 Eaftt^rly winds to prevail here with very 
 little deviation. 
 
 Between the iflands of Bafilan and San- 
 guir, there are feveral fmall iflets, which are 
 not laid down in the charts ; but we did 
 not perceive any circumftancc of danger 
 about them. 
 
 The paflage by Samboingan is certainly 
 much more eligible than that to the Ealt- 
 ward of Magindanao. Indeed to get to the 
 Eaftward is a matter of great difficulty. — It 
 coft us a great deal of time, trouble and 
 vexation, to reach only the 147th degree of 
 longitude : befides the track is ftrewed, as it 
 were, with perils ; fmall, low fandy iflands, 
 and numbers of reefs of coral rocks are every 
 >yhere vifible, which, during a dark night, 
 ^ould prove almoft a certain deflru<5lion ; 
 
 mf^^m^^rf- 
 
 ■•'■' >:. 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. gp 
 
 and, to encreafe the hazard, no foundings 1^88. 
 are to be procured, to give any warning of February. 
 the approaching danger. But, even if we 
 fuppofe thefe rocks and ihoals to be cleared* 
 it would not be prudent to tack before New 
 Guinea is weathered ; and, laftly, the courfe 
 tcihe Northward is to be confidered as lying 
 through thofe dangerous iilands, the Caro- 
 lines, whofe pofition has been confidered as 
 very uncertain, till it was afcertained by the 
 Iphigenia, as well as the contiguous flioals ; 
 and, in particular, the Shoal Abregoes, whofe 
 exiftence was univerfally doubted, but is 
 now found to be placed in the track of (hips 
 entering the China feas from the Pacific 
 Ocean, between Formofa and Luconia. 
 
 If the pafiTage to the Wcfl:ward of Magin- 
 danao be preferred, there is no danger to be 
 apprehended, at leafl: that we faw, from en- 
 tering the channel of Bafilan : in the latter, 
 confiderable overfalls will be found, but no- 
 thing elfe, up to the place of anchorage 
 off Fort Caldera. This paffhge is alfo by 
 much the (horteft ; and, \ii our opinion, 
 in every refpe<3: equal to that of the Pacific 
 Ocean, exclufive of the very important con- 
 fideratlon of refrefliing the crews of (hips. 
 
 Ou 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 /;. 
 
 n 
 
 — '— -'^' 
 
% 
 
 I 
 
 90 
 
 VaYAGES TO THE 
 
 f-iii; 
 
 1788. On leaving Samboingan, the navigator 
 February, fliould hug the fliore of Magindanao clofe on 
 board, as much as poflible, as the wind will 
 be generally found to blow ofF the ihore, 
 which is fteep clofe to, and no danger to 
 be apprehended from it. The direftions of 
 anchorage are already exprefled in the ac- 
 count which has been given of the fet- 
 tlement of Samboingan . - 
 
 From Magindanao, it will be proper to 
 fteer a diredt courfe for the South part of 
 the Ifland of Panay; — if the wind is not 
 very favourable, it will be neceffary to bor- 
 der the coaft of the Ifland del Negros ; nor 
 is there any danger to be apprehended from 
 fleering clofe to Panay, as it has a very bold 
 coaft, till the Weft point of the Ifland of 
 Mindoro is reached : from whence the courfe 
 lies to the coaft of Luconia, where confi- 
 derable advantage will be received from the 
 currents which run to the Northward, during 
 the period of the North Eaft Monfoon, off 
 Cape Bolinou, from twenty to twenty-five 
 miles 'n twenty-four hours, and oftentimes 
 as high as Cape Buxadore. 
 
 The greateft precaution ftiould be obferved 
 about the period when the monfoons change, 
 
 3 ' — a time 
 
 /I :: 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA* 
 
 —a time to be dreaded above all others in 1788. 
 the China feas ; — if, therefore, fhips (hould Februart. 
 have reached Sambolngan any time in the 
 month of Oftober, it would be extremely 
 proper for them to remain there till the 
 North Eaft Monfoon is fet ftrongly in. After 
 October, the paffage to and from Manilla 
 to China is always certain. Even the word: 
 of the Spanifh (hips, and they are the moft 
 miferably equipped of any vefl'els in the 
 world, work up the coaft of Luconia to the 
 height of the ifland, aflifted by the Norther- 
 ly current ; they then ftretch over to the 
 coaft of China, and are certain of efFedling 
 their paffage. 
 
 On the whole it is evident, that this route 
 is the fafeft, as well as the moft expeditious ; 
 and, at all events, fuperior^to that of the 
 Weft coaft of Borneo. 
 
 If the Pacific Ocean ftiould be preferred 
 to f ffe6l the paffage by ftretchiiig to the 
 Eaftward, and then tacking to weather Lu- 
 conia, it would be right to ftand to the 
 Eaft till the coaft of New Guinea is wea- 
 thered, and the 1 50th degree of longitude 
 is reached ; when it is probable, that the 
 dangerous groupe of iflands, called the Ca- 
 rolines, 
 
 
 i^''L 
 
 
 M 
 
u 
 
 
 ■f '. 
 
 im- 
 
 92 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 I 
 
 1788. rolines, will be weathered; amongft which 
 February, are included the Pelew, and other low 
 iflands, which are furrounded by reefs of 
 rocks to a great diftance, and are without any 
 foundings to give notice of danger in dark 
 and ftormy nights. 
 
 Between Magindanao and New Guinea, 
 there are fo many clufters of thefe low 
 iflands, as to require, and almoft to baffle 
 the utmoft vigilance and precaution. 
 
 When to the Northward of thefe dangers, 
 the Bafhee Jflands may be made, feen by Dam- 
 pier, or the Ifland of Botol Tobago Xima, feen 
 by Lord Anfon ; but it would be the beft way 
 to make the latter, exercifing every poflible 
 degree of attention to avoid the Abregoes 
 {hoal, which is extremely dangerous. When 
 Botol Tobago Xima Is vifible, one may fleer 
 without the leaft appreheniion, even in the 
 darkeft night. South Weft 14 leagues, when 
 the rocks of Ville Rete will be rounded at 
 a moderate diftance, and the China feas may 
 be entered by hauling up to the Northward 
 and Weft ward. There is a fmall rocky 
 iflet, bearing nearly Eaft of Botol Tobago 
 Xima, fome miles diftant ; — and great atten- 
 tion ftiould be paid that the former may not 
 
 be 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 03 
 
 be miftaken for the latter; The rocks of 1788. 
 Ville Rete are extremely dangerous ; they FfiBRUA*^- 
 form in a clufter, and are furrounded by 
 breakers ; the largeft of them is about the 
 height of a fmall (hip's hull out of the wa- 
 ter : they bear off rhe South end of Formofa> 
 South Wefterly, five leagues. We thought 
 that, from the maft-head, we could diftin- 
 guifti a channel between them and For- 
 mofa. 
 
 The laft time we made Botol Tobago 
 Xima it was almoft dark, — the weather 
 ftormy and hazy ; and, very (hortly after, 
 it blew a tremendous gale of wind at Eaft. 
 We fleered South Weft 15 leagues, and 
 hauled up Weft and Weft North Weft, and 
 entered the China feas at midnight, without 
 feeing any thing of Formofa. The longi- 
 tude of thefe places is laid down by us from 
 good obfervations of the fun and moon. In 
 this run, the general account muft be laid in 
 having a ftrong current fetting to the Weft- 
 ward, from the moment a ftiip puts her 
 head to the Northward. ! 
 
 The land generally made on the coaft ' 
 
 of China is about the Pedro Blanco, or 
 White Rock : from thence, within the 
 
 Lema 
 
 ■I ' 
 
f['i'i 
 
 ll 
 
 [J 
 
 \\ 
 
 fi 
 
 i: ) k 
 
 mi i\ 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 04 VOYAGESTOTHE 
 
 1788. Lcma Iflands, is a fafe paHage to Canton, 
 rsBRUARY. anjj ^q danger of any kind to be appre- 
 hended. By this courfe the Prata ihoal, 
 \ whofe dangers are fo well known, is 
 avoided. 
 
 If a (hip enters the China feas by making 
 the Bafhee Iflands, her paflhge to Canton 
 may be endangered, from the ftrong South- 
 erly currents at that feafon. This palfage, 
 therefore, is not fo fecure as the former, 
 particularly as the Spaniards have feized 
 thefe iflands, and eftabliflied a force on them, 
 though at prefent of no great ftrength or 
 power. 
 
 The Bafliee Iflands, however, are bold 
 and fafe; — we were here in 1786, and pro- 
 cured refrefliments. It may not be generally 
 known that the Spaniards have taken pof- 
 feflion of them. But fo it is ; and a governor 
 refides on Grafton Ifle, with about an hun- 
 dred foldiers, feveral officers, a few priefl:s, 
 and five or fix pieces of cannon, which are 
 mounted before his houfe ; but without for- 
 tification or defences of any kind. 
 
 Our flay at thefe iflands was fo fliort, as 
 not to afford us an opportunity of attaining 
 any thing but a very gencrri information 
 
 . ; con- 
 
 V--. 
 
 *^ 
 
 .,* . 
 
 l;-^*1 
 
 f^JJ^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. p^ 
 
 concerning them; but, as very few fhips 1788. 
 
 have ever been known to vifit the Baihee Fbbrvary. 
 
 iflands, it may not only fatisfy curiofity, 
 
 but be of ufe to the Oriental navigation, to 
 
 offer fuch intelligence as we poflefs from 
 
 our own obfervation, or the information of 
 
 others. 
 
 Thefe iflands, which are fituated between 
 Formofa and Luconia, are five in number, 
 — befides four fmall rocky iflets, which, 
 however, are covered with verdure. Dam- 
 pier gave the following names to the five 
 larger of them : Grafton Ifland, which is 
 the mofl confiderable, — Monmouth Ifland, 
 which is the next in fize, — Goat Ifland, 
 Orange Ifland, and Bafliee Ifland, which are 
 much fmaller than the two former. They 
 are inhabited by a race of fl:rong, athletic 
 men, who have been hitherto happy in a 
 foil that produced every thing neceflary for 
 their fupport and comfort : — But we cannot 
 fuppofe that the happinefs thefe people pof- 
 fefled will find any addition from the yoke 
 of Spain. 1 
 
 Orange Ifland lies North and South, and 
 is almofl: inacceliible on every fide : it is 
 entirely flat at the top : at the difi:ance of 
 
 four 
 
 ■'in 
 
 \ 
 
 I'- 
 
 ll 
 
M 
 
 £ 
 
 ;. 
 
 it 
 
 fSv 
 
 I 
 
 o5 VOYAGESTOTHE 
 
 1788. four leagues, on approaching it from the 
 
 Fb«rua»v. China feas, the peak on Grafton Ifle is very 
 
 difcernable over this high flat. We Ihould 
 
 fuppofcj that the ifland is fifty feet above the 
 
 level of the fea. 
 
 On the North of this ifland are four rocky 
 ifles, called Anfon*s Rocks ; two of them are 
 within three miles of the North end of the 
 ifland. — We entered this paflage and dif- 
 covered no danger : a large fhip might even 
 brufli her fides againfl: Orange Ifland. The 
 other two fl:and four or five miles from the 
 former, and from that paflage which Lord 
 Anfon made in the Centurion. 
 
 Grafton Ifland is fituated to the Eaft of 
 Orange Ifland ; fl:ands nearly North and 
 South, is of confiderable extent, being about 
 thirteen leagues in circumference, and has a 
 good anchorage on the Wefl:ern fide. About 
 two miles to the Southward of the town 
 where the governor refides, is a fmall fandy 
 bay, where we anchored in nine fithoms, 
 about half a mile from the ftiore ; the found- 
 ings gradually decreafing from forty fathom 
 to nine fathoms ; but the bank does not 
 run off more than two miles. The latitude 
 of the fliips pofition was 20" 36' North, and 
 
 li-,;,/^ 
 
 •— '.i^--ji^«, ^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 longitude, by obfervatlon of fun and moon, 
 122° Eaft of Greenwich. 
 
 The appearance of this ifland is extreme- 
 ly beautiful and luxuriant ; and the fup- 
 plies we received very well anfwered to the 
 charming fcene of their produdtion. The 
 natives brought us abundance of the fineft 
 yams in the world, with fugar cane, taro 
 root, plantain and other vegetables : we alfb 
 received hogs and goats in great plenty, but 
 very little poultry. Iron was the favourite 
 commodity of thele people, though beads, 
 at times, feemed to poflefs an equat, if not 
 fuperior value. — Indr J, fince the Spmiards 
 have poUeffcd themfelves of thefe iflands, 
 money as well as iron are in ufe among 
 them. In the time of Dampier, beads were 
 the only medium of their commerce. We 
 left the governor a breed of Bengal fheep, 
 which, when put on fhore, roamed in a 
 clover pafture, and on a foil of exuberant 
 fertility. There can be no doubt but that 
 thofe animals will thrive in their new abode, 
 and that future navigators flopping at thefe 
 iflands, will meet with a plentiful fupply. 
 
 The water on the ifland is very fine, In 
 great abundance, and clofe to the beach ; a 
 
 Vol. I. G fmall 
 
 n 
 1788. 
 
 February, 
 
 '\ 
 
 i 
 

 I-?", 'J 
 
 98 
 
 I 
 
 FiBRU 
 
 * 
 ART. 
 
 ' »J 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 fmall refervoir being formed tbcrc, which 
 is fupplied by a rivulet that flows from the 
 mountains. 
 
 A Spanifh force arrived at thefe iflands 
 fome time in the year 1783, to take poflef- 
 fion of tliem ; with what view, it is by no 
 means difficult to conjecture, when it is 
 known that they were fuppofed to contain 
 mines of gold. We certainly faw a confi- 
 derable quantity of gold duft in the poflef- 
 fion of the natives, and feveral fmall pieces, 
 which, in all probability, had been walhed 
 down by the torrents from the mountains, 
 and found in the beds of the rivulets with 
 which thefe iflands abound. — Thefe, fome 
 of which we purchafed, were manufactured 
 into thick wire, and worn as ornaments in 
 their ears, or about the necks of the chil- 
 dren, • r- 
 
 They are well inhabited by a race of in- 
 ofFenfive people; whofe chief delight confifts 
 in drinking a liquor called bafhee, which 
 is diflilled from rice and the fugar cane. In 
 the evening, men, women and children 
 meet in crowds on the fliores, with torches 
 in their hands, and drink bafliee till they are 
 intoxicated, when they engage in dancing, 
 
 ,...;'. ^ and 
 
 sr 
 
 '%f-. 
 
 jjSfm^' 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. «^ 
 
 and difplay every mark of fatisfa^tioii and 1788. 
 contentment. It is, however, very much to February. 
 be feared that thefe iflanders mud have al- 
 ready found a mortifying interruption to 
 their feftive pleafures, from the tyranny 
 and bigotry of Spanifli dominion. 
 
 The weather in the South Weft Monfoon 
 is extremely tcmpeduous ; and when gales 
 of wind blow here, they are of the moft 
 ftormy and violent nature. 
 
 The currents and tides run rapid and 
 ftrong, particularly along the Southernmoft 
 of thefe iflands, all of which are low; it is 
 neceflary, therefore, that (hips (hould give 
 them a good birth in their paiTage between 
 thefe iflands and Formofa. • ^ 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 Gz 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 ly 
 
 . I 
 
^ 
 
 ^i^. 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 ^ 
 
 4^ 'M< 
 
 1.0 ^tam 
 
 1.1 f.'"'^ 
 
 1I& 
 
 — A" 
 
 
 ^j^ 
 
 FholQgraptiic 
 
 Sdmces 
 
 Corporation 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 \ 
 
 23 WaST MAM STIHT 
 
 «VnSTM.N.V. 14SM 
 
 (7U)B7a-4S03 
 
 
 '^:**!v "" 
 
 v\ 
 

 
 
 ^ 
 
 <i 
 
 'i 
 
too 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 
 17S8. 
 
 VlBRVARY. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 
 I/. 
 
 \\ 1 ' 
 
 
 I H 
 
 fcf 
 
 Tiicfday u 
 
 Departure of the Yelice from Samboingan .—■> 
 
 Pafs the Felice* s IJles, — Mention of the Orders 
 
 ' andlnJiruSiions given by the Merchants Pro' 
 
 - prietors for performing the Voyage, — Extra" 
 
 ordinary Change in the Temper of the Buffa^ 
 
 loes received on board, — Pafs the JJland of 
 
 Magindanao, — Rapidity of the Currents. — 
 
 ^ Efcape the JJland of Providence, — Pafs the 
 
 ' Talour IJlands, — IJland of Sanguir. — See the 
 
 • North Cape. — ImpojffibiUty of JVeathering it. 
 
 — Invariablenefs of the Trade Winds in the 
 
 Pacific Ocean.^Sear up to Leeward of the 
 
 North Cape. — Pafs the IJland Riou.— -The 
 
 Channel between Morintay and the Ifland of 
 
 Jelolo. — Fragrance of the Air. — Pafs the 
 
 Southern Extremity of Morintay. — Reach the 
 
 Sea. — The Latitude of Morintay afcertained. 
 
 ON the 1 2th of February, at day break, 
 we had loft fight of Samboingan, and 
 Durfued our courfe along the coaft of Magin- 
 danao : the latitude at noon was 6° 34' 
 North, and the extreme part of the ifland 
 
 ia 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 lOI 
 
 in fight, bore Weft North Weft, diftant j^gg^ 
 twelve leagues. The ifland of Bafilan bore Fkbruaky. 
 from South Weft by South, to Weft North 
 Weft four leagues : in this pofition the hill 
 we have already mentioned, as refembling 
 a Majidarin's cap, was very confpicuous. 
 
 We obferved two fmall iflands fttuated 
 between Magindanao and Bafilan, bearing 
 North by Eaft, diftant four miles : they 
 were not of any great extent, but entirely 
 covered with wood. As they bore no place 
 on the charts, they were named Felice's 
 Ifles. 
 
 A confiderable current had fet us during 
 the night to the North Eaft ; the wind blew 
 frefli from the Northward and Southward, 
 and at funfet we could but juft difcern the 
 ifland of Magindanao. 
 
 Previous to our departure from Samboin- 
 gan and feparation from the Iphigenia, the 
 orders and inftrudtions marked Number II. 
 in the Appendix, were delivered to Captain 
 Douglas, for the guidance of his future con- 
 dud. Thofe marked Number I. were de- 
 livered by the merchants proprietors before 
 our departure from China. Thefe inftruc- 
 tions contain at large the motives to, and 
 
 G3 real 
 
 ^ 
 
 ' i' 
 
 % 
 
 V 
 
102 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1 
 
 il 
 
 I 
 
 
 1 788. ^®^1 objefts of, the voyage ; and it will not 
 February, furely be erring from the truth, if it is 
 aiferted, that they do not contain a fingle 
 expreffion inconfiflent with that humanity, 
 or derogatory of thofe principles which it is 
 ' the honour of British merchants to adopt, in 
 conducting their commerce in the different 
 quarters of the globe. Thefe orders and in- 
 ftrudions may be faid, without any fear of 
 contradi^ion, to breathe, in every part of 
 them, that fpirit of benevolence and juftice, 
 and to contain thofe honeft incitements to 
 induftry, which, in whatever part of the ha- 
 bitable earth they are exerted or employed, 
 muft ultimately tend to the honour of hu> 
 manity, and the advantage of our country. 
 Wednefdayi3 On the 13th, we continued our courfe, 
 with light and variable winds ; the weather 
 fultry and cloudy. By iix in the evening, 
 we had loft fight of the South Weftern ex- 
 tremity of Magindanao ; off which we had 
 perceived an ifland of a remarkable appear- 
 ance, that v/cre the form of a mountain, 
 whofe fides ihelved almoft perpendicularly 
 to the fea. 
 
 During the night we had heavy rain ; — our 
 
 courfe was to the Southward and Eaftward ; 
 
 y ' ' ^:-^V- '■■ •-•' V •. :■ ■ . ;-■ to 
 
KORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ,^32 
 
 to clofe in with the South Bail end of Ma- 1788, 
 gindanao, which, on the following morning, fk^ruarv. 
 we had confiderably neared ; when we found "^ '^ '* 
 it to be high and mountainous, and entirely- 
 covered with wood from the fea to its fum- 
 mit. We frequently founded, but procured 
 no ground with one hundred fathoms of line. 
 The latitude at noon was 6° 2' North, at 
 four P. M. the extreme point of Magin<» 
 danao in view, bearing Eaft half North, 
 diftant eight leagues ; we hauled to the Eaft 
 South Eaft to double the Southern extre- 
 mity. 
 
 An extraordinary change now took place J'nday ij 
 in the fpirit and temper of the buffaloes 
 which we had received on board at Samboin- 
 gan. They were fo extremely wild and fierce, 
 that it was with great difficulty and fome 
 danger we were able to embark them ; and 
 fo dexterous are they in the management of 
 their horns, that even the natives did not 
 venture to approach them in their new fitua- 
 tion. But the natural ferocity of their na- 
 ture feemed at once to abandon them, and 
 they were already become fo tame as to eat 
 out of the hand, and were aftually much 
 Ipfs vicious than our other cattle* 
 
 G4 On 
 
 ; 
 
I04 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 '4 
 
 !| 
 
 
 IM 
 
 
 1788. Oil this' morning, we found that a con- 
 febkuary. fiJerable current had fet us to the South- 
 
 • wardofMagindanao. It bore from us North, 
 diftant about 1 1 leagues : the Southern ex- 
 tremity formed an high promontory, which 
 wore the appearance of an ifland. 
 
 We now congratulated ourfelves on en- 
 tering the Northern Pacific Ocean with fo 
 
 * Jittic trouble ; but this fati station was very 
 much dimiiiiflicd from the unfavourable 
 ftate of the wind, which we found to blow 
 from Eaft North Eail. The latitude at noon 
 was 4° 58' North, and the hnigitude 1 26" 36' 
 Eaft of Greenwich. At this time we per- 
 ceived two fmall iflnnds, bearing South 
 South Eaft, diftant five leagues ; and the pro- 
 montory of Magindanao was yet in fight, 
 bearing North, diftant 13 leagues. 
 
 The current now (ct us fo ftrongly to the 
 Southward, that we could !iot weather the 
 two little ifles feen in the South South Eaft ; 
 and perceiving n ckar channel between them 
 of a mile and an half, we determined to 
 pufli through it. Thefe iflands are lofty, 
 and covered with wood. From the North 
 and South points of the Northernmoft ifland, 
 there runs a fpit of land for half a mile ; and 
 
 fome 
 
 .5^- 
 
 • .-if 
 
 V, 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 »o5 
 
 feme detached rocks from the Northernmoft i ^gg^ 
 point, at about a mile diftancc : on thefe Fkbruahy. 
 rocks we oblervcd a few fcattered trees, 
 which render them very remarkable. When 
 in mid-channel between the iilands, we 
 founded, and had fixty fathoms, with white 
 and red Ihells. We had fcarcepaffed through, 
 when the Southernmoft ifland opened into 
 two dlftind ones, with the appearance Df a. 
 channel between them. At the fame time, 
 wc faw another ifland, bearing Eaft South 
 Eaft, diftant four leagues, which was alfb 
 covered with wood; and from the naft- 
 head we difcerned a dangerous (hoal and 
 reef of rocks, which extend near three miles 
 from its South end, and are very remarkable 
 from their whitenefs. Another ifland ap- 
 peared on the lee-beam bearing South South . ' 
 Eaft, diftant eight leagues ; and, ir this 
 pofition, the promontory of Magindana* bore 
 Eaft North Eaft, diftant 1 8 or 20 leagues. 
 
 Our fituation differed, at this time, from 
 every chart in our poffeffion ; it became 
 neceflary, therefore, to proceed wiih the 
 utmoft precaution through this archi)elago. 
 The North Cape on the Ifland of Morintay, 
 by our account, bore Eaft North Eaft 134 
 
 5 miles ; 
 
,q5 voyages to the 
 
 1788. miles; and the Cape of Good Hope, or 
 FiBRUARY. Northern extremity of New Guinea, South 
 Eaft, 470 miles. The wind kept (leadily to 
 the Eaft North Eaft ; and as we pafled thofe 
 ifltnds, we found ourfelves drifted almoft 
 " bo4ily to leeward by a rapid Southerly cur- 
 ren:. Such a continuation of unfavourable 
 circumftances left us no very flattering prof- 
 pef: of being able to weather the North Cape ; 
 befJes, we were not without apprehenfions 
 thai we (hould be obliged to bear away, and 
 run through fuch a dangerous clufter of 
 iflands as the Moluccas ; a navigation which 
 is conddered as the moft dangerous in the In- 
 dian Teas. We were not, however, without 
 fome expectations, that the near vicinity of 
 the Sun to the l^ine would produce fome 
 abate-nent of the influence of the North Eaft 
 Mon{)on. But, after all, taking both the 
 favourable and unfavourable circumftances 
 in a p'oper point of view, with the dark and 
 tediou; nights, the courfe before us could 
 not be coniidered but as replete with diffi- 
 culties and perils, both of which, muft be 
 greatly augmented, if tempeftuous weather 
 ftiould mfortunately overtake us. 
 
 Thf 
 

 f ■- 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. jq- 
 
 The current, like a vaft, but fteady, rapid 1^88. 
 ilream, fwept us bodily to leeward : — it ran, Fibruary. 
 at lead, three miles an hour ; and we had 
 every reafon to believe, that it ran much 
 ftronger at it approached the Straits of Ma- 
 caiTar. Indeed, it fwept us away fo much, 
 that we were not able to reach the ifland 
 feen in the South Eaft by Eaft quarter, by 
 five leagues. 
 
 During the night of the 15th, we had 
 a great deal of wind, but the Tea was uncom- 
 monly fmooth ; a certain fign that we were 
 in the vicinity of fome great body of land. 
 We kept fteering to the South Eaft by 
 Eaft, with a fteady gale to the Northward 
 and Eaftward. The courfes were hauled up 
 in the brails, in order to fee more diftinftly, 
 and to be in a ftate of preparation to haul 
 upon either tack, to avoid any immediate 
 or preffing danger. Thefe precautions proved 
 to be extremely neceflary ; for about mid- 
 night we difcovered, by the light f the 
 moon, that we were clofe to an ifland, co- 
 vered with a white fand, and almoft on a 
 level with the water. We very fortunately 
 perceived this dangerous objed, near half a 
 mile from us ; and had fuificient time to put 
 
 I the 
 
 ■r 
 
 iu 
 
 rill I Hill 
 
io8 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 '->f 
 
 
 1788. the helm a-weather, and bear up to leeward. 
 
 Fm&uary. We then founded, but found no ground 
 ivith an hundred fathoms of line. We con- 
 tinued, however, to give it a good birth until 
 two in the morning, when we loft fight of 
 it, and then rcfumed our courfe to the Eaft 
 South Eaft, with a frefh gale from the 
 North Eaft. 
 
 Thefe low, fandy iflands, which are fcat- 
 * ■ . tered every where near the Line, render the 
 navigation of thofe parts of a very perilous 
 nature. No foundings can be obtained to 
 warn the navigator of the approaching dan- 
 ger : fo that in a dark night no vigilance or 
 precaution is fufficient to fccure him from 
 the imminent hazard of dcftruflion. 
 
 Stfnrdayi( ^t funrife, land appeared, extending 
 from North Weft to Weft, at the diftance 
 of 16 leagues. The fmall, low, fandy iflet 
 feen in the night, we judge to lie in the 
 latitude of 4° i' North, and in the longi- 
 tude of 127° 10' Eaft, to which we gave the 
 name of Providence Ifland. At noon, the 
 latitude was 3° 32' North. During the 
 laft twenty- four hours, we experienced a 
 current that fet the ftiip ^^ miles to the 
 Southward. The longitude was 127" 58' 
 
 Eaft. 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. |o^ 
 
 Eaft. Land was now feen in almoft every 1788. 
 direction, extending from Eaft North Eaft FE»auA»r, 
 to Weft North Weft ; and, to the North- 
 ward and Eaftward, appeared broken and 
 detached, as if compofed of a groiipe of 
 iflands. The Weftward land was diftant 
 from us about 15 leagues. 
 
 At fun-fet, the body of the windward 
 ides bore North North Eaft, at the diftancc 
 of 14 leagues. Our pofition was now ex- 
 tremely doubtful; nor could we reconcile 
 it to any of the charts on board. We were, 
 indeed, inclined to fuppofe, that the land 
 to the North North Eaft confifted of thofe 
 iflands named the Valour, and the land to 
 the Weftward the Ifland of Sanguir. If our 
 conjedVures were right, the currents muft:* 
 have a<Sted on us with great force in fetting ^ 
 us to the Southward ; and it now became 
 a matter of painful uncertainty if we fhould 
 be able to weather the North Cape ; which 
 was an objefk of the utmoft importance. 
 
 We had, indeed, flattered ourfelves, that,' 
 on our approach to the Line, we (hould have 
 experienced variable winds ; but hitherto 
 the wind ftood, as it were, immovably to 
 the Eaft ; nor did it feem inclined to give 
 
 us 
 
 l^ 
 
 1 1 
 
no 
 
 VOYAGES TO TH2 
 
 lt#»- 
 
 11 
 
 1 1 
 
 ■■mk 
 
 1788. «8 a point of advantage. Our prcfcnt fitu* 
 FiBRVAftv. ation, therefore, as well as our future pro- 
 fpedt, was clouded with uncertainty ; and 
 the chance was but too probable that we 
 ihould be driven to leeward of Jelolo, and 
 confequently be forced to encounter a navi- 
 gation of the mod difficult nature. 
 
 We were fully convinced, that, if the 
 North Cape could not be weathered, a paf* 
 fage muf); be attempted through the Mo- 
 luccas, to the Southward of Jelolo, where 
 there was good reafon to expert that we 
 fhould meet, if not the North Weft Mon- 
 fbon, at leaft with fuch variable winds as 
 would allow us to re-enter the Northern 
 Pacific Ocean by Pitt's Straits ; but even 
 then, it was by no means certain whether 
 we (hould be able to weather the coaft of 
 New Guinea ; nor could we refleft, with- 
 out extreme mortification, on being obliged 
 to run down its Weftern coaft, ahd, by En- 
 deavour's Straits, to reach the Southern 
 Ocean ; as fuch a courfe, during which the 
 long and dark nights would continually ob- 
 ftrud and delay our progrefs, muft, in the 
 end, totally defeat the purpofe of our voy- 
 age. — On the other hand, if we ftood to 
 
 the 
 
 ^m 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA 
 
 III 
 
 the North, in order te heat round Nwr i^gg, 
 Guinea, againd a (Irong monfoon, thre FcmvARr, 
 was every reafon to believe that we (hoid 
 fail in our purpofe : indeed, we found t 
 neceifary to give it up, from the evidec 
 impoflibility of cffc£ling it, without a gre: 
 wafte of that time of which we had i 
 little to fpare. Thefe difficulties were c 
 a nature not eafily to be overcome; and th 
 event proves how narrowly wc efcaped froi 
 encountering the very obftacles which or 
 apprehenfions had placed before us. 
 
 During the night of the i6ih, we co» 
 tinued (leering to the Eafl South Eaft uncr 
 a prefs of fail. The moon (hone cltr 
 and bright, fo that any danger round te 
 horizon would have been readily difcernd* 
 
 On the morning of the 17th, land las Sunday 17 
 feen a-head, bearing in the direction of 
 £a(l, at the diftance of 1 2 leagues ; an<to 
 leeward, land was alfo feen bearing Soth 
 South Weft. The latitude at noon 'as 
 2** 40' North. The North Cape now bre 
 from us Baft, Northerly, at the diftace 
 of 1 4 leagues. The wind blew fteadily f>m 
 the North Eaft and Eaft North Eaft, vth 
 a ftrong Southerly current. f 
 
 \ 
 
 )n 
 
 "f«t5-t»T-^_-.-;i iijliui !^ 
 
IIS 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 if R 
 
 ;! 
 
 (lis 
 
 1788. Ve continued clofing in with the North 
 
 ^M^d^^^s ^^' *" expectation of receiving the ad- 
 
 v^tage of a land wind ; when, at fix in the 
 
 etning, being within two miles of the 
 
 itnd of Morintay, we were obliged to tack 
 
 : ad ftsnd to fea for the fifft time. — We 
 
 Cdld not find any foundings with an hun« 
 
 dsd fathoms of line.— But although we 
 
 vre fo unfortunate as to fall to leeward 
 
 d the North Cape, we were determined 
 
 itc to relax in our endeavours, till we were 
 
 CQvinced of the impradicability of wea- 
 
 thring it; and it was with this view we 
 
 taccd and ftood to fea. 
 
 y ten o'clock in the morning, we were 
 agai clofe in with the ifland of Morin- 
 tay having tacked at midnight for the 
 \ ■ fho5 ; "but neither at fea, or clofe in with 
 
 the land, were we fo fortunate as to ex- 
 perince any alteration of the wind in our 
 favur. We had alfo the mortification to 
 obPve, that the Southerly currents- had 
 fet s during the night, bodily to leeward 
 of he pofition we had occupied on the 
 precding evening. At noon the latitude 
 was2° 35' North, and we had entirely loft 
 figh of the North Cape, which now bore 
 ' , Eaft 
 
I ■' 
 
 :«'•> 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA* 
 
 '»3 
 
 Eaft by North, diftant 17 leagues, immedi- 1788. 
 ately in the wind's eye. itBRUARV. 
 
 The impradlicabiiity of efFcfling our objeft 
 was now become fo apparent, as to embar- 
 rafs ourfituation with a choice of difficul- 
 ties. We difcovered, however, a narrow 
 channel between a fmall ifland, bearing 
 South South Eafl, at the diflance of four 
 leagues, and the ifland of Morintay. Je* 
 lolo was alfo very difcernible ; the Nor- 
 thernmoft point of which bore South Weft, 
 diftant only 13 leagues. Between this point 
 and the ifland we have juft mentioned, 
 there appeared an ext^nflve channel; we 
 had, therefore, no other alternative, but to 
 make our paflage through it, and round the 
 Southern extremity of Morintay, without 
 riflcing any more of our time, which was 
 now fb precious, in fruitlefs endeavours to 
 weather the North Cape againft winds, cur- 
 rents, and fea. ' 
 
 We were perfe£lly aware, that, having 
 once entered upon this courfe, there would 
 be no poflibility of returning; as well as 
 that it might entangle us in the ftioals of 
 Jelolo and the deep gulph of Chiauw, wh.ch 
 is alfo filled with ftioals and fliallows, and 
 
 Vol. I. K into 
 
 M 
 
\ 
 
 114 
 
 Voyages to the 
 
 
 1788. into which the monfoon perpetually blows, 
 February, backed by conftant currents. Such a com- 
 bination of circumftances were more than 
 fufficient to convince us, that in profecu- 
 . ting our prefent defign we muft be governed 
 by an unremitting perfeverance. Accord- 
 ingly, at noon, we bore up for the channel 
 between the iflands Riou and Jelolo; and 
 by four P. M. it was open, and appeared of 
 fufficient breadth to navigate ; but in the 
 middle feveral fmall, low, and faifdy iflands 
 were fituated, which might, in fome mea- 
 fure, interrupt, if not endanger the naviga- 
 tion of the channel ; we, therefore, pur- 
 fued our courfe along the coaft of Riou, at 
 the diftance of twq^ miles : — the land was 
 every where covered with w^ood to the wa- 
 ter's edge ; but, as far as we could difcover, 
 without the veftige of an habitation. We 
 could not obtain foundings with forty fa- 
 thoms of line. 
 
 i\t half paft four, the high mountains of 
 Jelolo appeared to rear their fummits above 
 the horizon, which immediately fettled the 
 critical nature of our fituation. We had 
 now advanced fo far, that any attempt to 
 return would have been the extreme of 
 ".1:. ' : . . folly;— 
 
 ^.V 
 
KORTH WES T COAST OF AMERICA. '^ nr 
 
 folly ; — the channel was alreaciy paffed, but 1788. 
 the Ifland of Morintay extended a great February. 
 deal farther to the Southward than any of 
 the charts had laid it down :— Riou was 
 alfo paffed ; and now a deep, capacious 
 channel was formed by Jelolo and Morintay, 
 of near 12 or 13 leagues in extent. The 
 great gulph of Chiauw was now under our 
 lee ; — arange of low, fandy iflands, conne£led 
 with ftioals, were fituated about five leagues 
 off Morintay, in the channel along which 
 we fteered. The moon (hone very bright, 
 or we (hould not have ventured to proceed 
 during the night. The wind blew ftrong 
 from the North Eaft; and men were con- 
 ftantly kept in both chains, to attend to the 
 foundings, as well as on the yards, to look 
 out for broken water, or any other circum- 
 ftance of danger. As we paffed thofe iflands, 
 the (hoals appeared very plain, at the dif- 
 tance of about four miles, and we could fee 
 a dreadful furf roUins: over them. Our 
 foundings were now from fix, feven, to 
 eight fathoms, very regular, and over an 
 hard, fandy bottom. On getting more out 
 into the channel, we had fourteen, twenty, 
 and fometimes even thirty fathoms, with 
 ' H 2 the 
 
ii6 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. tl^c fame kind of ground. Thefe iflands ex- 
 Fkbruary. tend near five leagues. North and Sbuth,-^ 
 are about five leagues from Morintay, and 
 eight from Jelolo. We think it Would be 
 increafing the incidental hazards of this 
 channel to pafs between the iflands and 
 Morintay, as we fotihd a ftrong and rapid 
 current fetting us almoft due South. 
 
 It was greatly to our mortification that 
 We pa{!ed this channel during the night, as 
 we were thereby prevented from fending 
 boats on (hore to examine the nature of the 
 foil, and to look for turtle, as low, fandy 
 iflands are places where they are generally 
 found. In our pafl'age we perceived the air 
 to be ftrongly perfumed with fpicy odours ; 
 fome of us even imagijied they could dif- 
 tinguifli the peculiar fragrance of the nut- 
 meg plant. 
 
 As we cleared this chain of iflands and 
 Ihoals, we kept as clofe to the wind as pofli- 
 ble, to near, once more, the South end of 
 Morintay, which we happily effected by 
 Tuefdayi9 break of day on the 19th, being only three 
 leagues from it. We kept fleering thus till 
 noon, when the latitude was i** 47', the ex- 
 tremes of the ifland of Riou bearing from 
 s • ' South 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 "7 
 
 South Weft by Weft, to South Weft, one ,«g8, 
 half South, diftant nine leagues; and the lEkKtARv. 
 extremes of Jelolo hearuig from South South 
 Weft, to South Eaft, diftant eleven leagues : 
 in this poHtion the channel we had failed 
 through was entirely clofed. 
 
 Our courfe was continued to the Eaft^^'c<i"'^f'^a>*° 
 South Eaft, with the wind from the North 
 Eaft, but light, till the 20th ; when at noon, 
 we had, to our great joy, a confiderable 
 offing towards the fea; the latitude was 
 1° 56' North, the ifland of Morintay bear- 
 ing from South by Weft, half Weft, to Weft 
 by North, half North, diftant fixteen leagues; 
 and the iflaud of Jelolo bearing from South 
 by Weft to South Weft, diftant fourteen 
 Jeagues. Thus we moft happily reached 
 the fea, without any material lofs of time, 
 and through a channel which, in any other 
 fituation, we fliould not have ventured to 
 pafs ; though we faw nothing to prevent a 
 fliip paffing it with eafe and fafety, by fol- 
 lowing the example of our precaution, iind 
 attending to the particular circumftances 
 which have been ju ft related; — The bear- 
 ings are marked with all pofiible care and 
 fidelity, for the benefit of any navigator, 
 
 H 3 who 
 
 t ifi 
 I 
 
 WkA* 
 
 
 -Ml> 
 
ii8 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE' 
 
 t 
 
 1788. who, from preference or neceffity, may 
 Fbbruarv. think proper to follow our courfe. 
 
 From Magindanao we had hitherto ex- 
 perienced a continuance of ftrong currents, 
 fetting to the South and South Weft; the 
 wind invariably at North Eaft ; and, in the 
 whole track from that ifland to Morintay, 
 we have noticed moft of the dangers which 
 lie between them. ^ 
 
 We confider the Southern extremity of 
 the ifland of Morintay to be in the latitude 
 of I** 40' North, and the longitude 1 28° Eaft 
 of Greenwich : — The land which was feen 
 on the 1 6th, muft have been, as we then 
 conjedured, the Talour Ifles, and the Ifland 
 of Sanguir. . . ^ . - 
 
 f\'^ 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 t^^m 
 
 tmmmm^'mi 
 
 4M«I» 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ng 
 
 ■ • -i: ' ■ V - /: -' '■.: ^-' ■ 1788. 
 
 Februart. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Ship's Courfe purfued to the Eaflward. — Cur^ 
 rents fit her to the IJland of IVagtew. — 
 Symptoms of the Scurvy atnotig the Crew. — 
 Wind veers ^ for the firfl I'ime, to the North 
 Wefl^'^Pafs Wagiew and the dangerous 7a- 
 tee IJles. — Freewill IJles feen.^'Nattves come 
 on Board. — I'heirjoy at feeing Iron, — Some 
 Account of thofi IJles, — I'heir Latitude and 
 Longitude, &c» — T^he Jlrong Currents in their 
 Vicinity, 
 
 _ * » • ■ 
 
 NO material occurrence happened till the rrkiay 2a 
 22d ; the courfe was kept to the Eaft 
 South Eaft ; the wind blew fteadily from 
 the North Eaft, and we daily experienced a 
 Southerly current. At this time the Northern 
 extremity of New Guinea bore from us in 
 the dire<Slion of Eaft South Eaft, diftant 
 120 leagues, when we faw land, bearing 
 Eaft South Eaft, to Weft by North, at the 
 diftance of about nine leagues from the body 
 of it. The land to the VVeftward we con- 
 cluded to be the Ifland of Wagiew, which 
 
 H 4 forms 
 
 . ( 3 
 
 f 
 
 
 r 
 
 
 m 
 
 '■I >■;■ 
 
 <i fai »i ' i " - 
 

 I20 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1 7S8. forms the Nor thernmoft part of Pitt's Straits ; 
 Fkbruarv. |3ut of the land to the Eaft we could form 
 no conjc£lure, as none appeared to be marked 
 on the charts in that diredtion. The lati- 
 tude at noon was only 22' North of the Line, 
 and the longitude was 131** 10' Eaft of 
 Greenwich. At this time the Ifland of 
 Wagicw extended from South Eaft by Eaft, 
 to Weft, and our diftance from the body of 
 it might be about (ix leagues. 
 
 In this fituation we were drifting bodily 
 to leeward on Wagiew, and found it to be 
 almoft impoflible to double the extremity 
 of this ifland, much lefs New Guinea, 
 without fome favourable alteration of the 
 winds, which had hitherto never varied from 
 the North Eaft ; beiides, the ftrong Souther- 
 ly currents had now fet the fliip thus far, 
 fo that we were altogether in a fituation fur- 
 rounded with circumftances of uncertainty 
 and embarraflment. We fcarce knew how 
 to expert a change that would be propitious ; 
 and, neverthelefs, a patient expectation of 
 it feemed to be almoft the only refource, 
 fuch as it was, that remained to us. The 
 weather was extremely fultry, but the winds 
 ' were light, which was the only favourable 
 . cir^ 
 
 «*•" 
 
 ■ ^»* i l^ ii 1 til I !■» 
 
 . >i 'mm' I" 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 Ill 
 
 circumftance of which we could boaO. A | -gg^ 
 pcrfevenng fplrit, however, fomctimes fur- februart. 
 mounts dangers that appear to be infur- 
 mountable, and we determined to conthiuc 
 the exertion of it. 
 
 This day, at noon, we had made no pro- Saturday ij 
 grefs whatever. The latitude was o° 20' 
 North of the Line; and the longitude was 
 131** 30' Eaft. We were now diftant only 
 five leagues from Wagiew, which extended 
 from Eaft South Eaft, to Weft South Weft. 
 The land bore a very different appearance 
 from that which wc had hitherto feen : — 
 it was extremely high, compofed of broken 
 and detached hills, and prefented, as far as 
 we could difcover, a very barren afpeft.— 
 It ran due Eaft and Weft, and all the hills 
 (helved abruptly into the fea. We could 
 procure no foundings with one hundred and 
 fifty fathoms of line. A fmall ifland was 
 alfo perceived in the North Eaft. quarter. 
 
 Thus were we approaching every moment 
 nearer to the land, without any profpedt of 
 fuch a change as would reward our perfe- 
 verance. — We had now been purfuing, for a 
 long month, an intricate and fatiguing na- 
 vigation, without having made any confi- 
 
 derablc 
 
 3 
 
 11 li 
 
 
 S; 
 
 
 v'' 
 
 I /\' 
 
 mtm 
 
 ^^ 
 
II 
 
 ff . t 
 
 \ I 
 
 !;• 
 
 123 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 ) ' 1 
 
 1 788. derable progrefs. The fultry heats alfo began 
 February, to affed ftveral of our people ; and the ex- 
 pe<Slatlon of the tedious paflhge to America, 
 with which we were threatened, rendered 
 the crewnot only difl'atisfied, but defpondent. 
 Symptoms of the fcurvy had begun to ap- 
 pear, in fpite of our ftriil adherence to thofc 
 admirable rules of regimen fo happily con- 
 ceived, and fuccefsfully pradlifed by Captain 
 Cook. We had now redoubled our atten- 
 tions to keep off the internal enemy that 
 threatened us, with an anxious expectation 
 of fuccefs, but we know not how far that 
 would have been gratified, if an alteration 
 had not taken place with us, which enlivened 
 the drooping fpirits of the crew, and ani- 
 mated them to new endeavours. At four 
 in the evening of this day,' when we were 
 within three leagues of the ifland, the wind 
 fprung up on a fudden from the North Wefl, 
 which was the firft favourable change we 
 had experienced fince our departure from 
 Samboingan. 
 
 We took an immediate advantage of this 
 fortunate circumflancc in our favour; the 
 courfc was altered to the North Eafl, and 
 
 all 
 
 
 ■»lii '■■♦iMIii 
 
 nt'nif nil n 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 123 
 
 1788. 
 February. 
 
 all fail fet ; fo that, at fun-fet, we had got 
 a confiderable diftance from Wagicw. 
 
 More land was now (een a-head, which 
 was very low, and, from its detached, broken 
 appearance, wc judged to be a groiipe of 
 iflands. During the night we kept (landing 
 to the North Eaft, immediately for the land, 
 and the wind continued to the Weft North 
 Weft, which enabled us to keep our courfe 
 till day-break on the 24th, when we found Sunday 1+ 
 ourfelvcs within three leagues of the land 
 feen on the preceding evening. It confifted 
 of feveral iflands, as we had conjectured, 
 which were very low, entirely covered with 
 wood, and furrounded by flioals and reefs of 
 rocks, and appeared to be of confiderable 
 extent. They bore from North Weft, to 
 North Eaft by Eaft, and were diftant from 
 each other about five miles. 
 
 As no fuch iflands were placed on the 
 charts, we thought proper to name them the 
 'I'atee Ifles, from the word, which was con- 
 tinually vociferated by the few natives who 
 came within hearing of the fliip. They are 
 fituated in 0° 20' of North latitude, and in 
 the longitude of 132° 2' Eaft of Greenwich. 
 They are very dangerous to approach, efpe- 
 
 cially 
 
 i 
 
 !l 
 
 v.,; 
 
V 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 \ i 
 
 1 
 
 \ 1 
 
 f 
 
 U4 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 ) 
 
 • / 
 
 
 fSS. ci^lly ^11 ^1)*^ "iglit, and the (hip that fliould 
 FitiiitAftT. be tempted to pafs through them, would 
 inevitably be lod. 
 
 VVc faw feveral canoes paddling between 
 the reefs; and two of them, containing each 
 five of the natives, approached very near 
 to the fhip, vociferating the word Tateef 
 Tatee, with great violence ; but no tempta- 
 tion on our part could prevail on them to 
 come along- fide, though we held up many 
 of thofe articles which we thought the moA 
 likely to entice them to a nearer communi- 
 cation with us. — They regarded the (hip 
 • • with much apparent wonder ; and, from 
 their Various antic geftures, we h:.d great 
 reafon to fuppofe that they had never be- 
 fore fcen fuch an objeft. They appeared to 
 be of the fame race as the Papua people, 
 woolly- headed, perfedly black, and with 
 tiie features of the African negroes ; but in 
 their forms (lout ami athletic. They held 
 long (pears in their hands, pointed with bone, 
 which they, from time to time, brandiihcd 
 at us. 
 
 Their canoes were of a peculiar, and very 
 curious conftrudion; — they were very nar- 
 row and long, and, to keep them on a ba- 
 ' / «_,^ lance, 
 
 mn^mM-aiiti 
 
 y:i^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERIC.V 
 
 ««5 
 
 lance, a large mit-riggc r run out on one fide, i -88. 
 wi'h net-work between, nnade with ftrong »*«»KUABr. 
 cord, manufa«^uf *d from the rind of the 
 cocoa-nut. Ot\ thisi, which formed a kind 
 of a (lage, were placed theif arms, imple- 
 ments for fi(hing, &c. We wifhcd very much 
 to fend boats on fhore, but as the (hip could 
 not approach near enough to the land for the 
 purpofe of protecting them, on account of 
 the (hoals, we thought it highly imprudent 
 to expofe our men to any hazards 
 
 Towards noon, to our great joy, the wind 
 frefliened up from the North Weft, when 
 we bid adieu to the Tatee Ifles, and purfued 
 our courfe to the Northward and the Eaft- 
 ward, every league of which was become 
 of the utmoft confequence. At funfet, the 
 extremes of the Tatee Ifles bore from us 
 Eaft by South, to South Eaft by Eaft, dif- 
 tant fiAre leagues : the tops of the trees juft 
 appearing above the water. At this time 
 the extremities of Wagiew bore from South 
 Weft by South, to South Weft by Weft, 
 diftant lo leagues. 
 
 We now purfued our courfe till the 27th, 
 with a favourable, but, in general, a light 
 wind. It thundered and lightened with 
 
 great 
 
 f: 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
i>' 
 
 I 
 
 {r 7 
 
 126 
 
 VOYAGES 4TO THE 
 
 i! 
 
 i: 
 
 \i 
 
 I'/ 
 
 I 
 
 
 ;; 
 
 1788. great violence, and the weather was ex- 
 Fkbuuarv. tremely clofc and fultry. The thermometer 
 was, at this time, at 88°, and very often at 
 92°. At noon the latitude was 56 minutes 
 North, and the longitude 136° ^^^ Eaft of 
 Greenwich. — Land, or rather trees, were 
 defcricd from the maft-head, bearing from 
 Eaft by South, to South Eaft by Eaft:— 
 when we were tolerably near them, the cur- 
 rents ran very ftrong to the South South 
 Weft : as we were not able to weather the 
 Northern moft, we bore up to the leeward of 
 it, and there now appeared to be four fmall 
 ifles, the largeft of which was not more 
 than five leagues in circumference. We 
 ranged within three miles of the fliore, 
 when we obferved a large village fituated 
 on the fliore of the ifland, in the luidft of a 
 grove of cocoa-nut trees ; every other part 
 appeared to be an entire foreft, without 
 one interval of cultivation. 
 
 We were very foon vifited by a great 
 number of canoes, containing, altogether, 
 at leaft five hundred natives, all men. Each 
 of thefe canoes held fix or feven people, and 
 were of the fame conftru£tion as thofe of 
 the Sandwich Ifland s. The natives alio 
 
 bor« 
 
 
">, 
 
 ies, were 
 
 KORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 bore the appearance, and to our great afto- 
 ni(hment, fpoke the language of the hiha- 
 bitants of thofe ifles ; and the refult of our 
 obfervation is a conje£ture, amountnig al- 
 moft to a firm belief, that they are of the 
 fame race. They came along -fide the (hip 
 without ceremony and without arms, and 
 fupplied us with, a confiderable quantity of 
 frefli gathered cocoa-nuts and coir line, 
 which was repaid by bits of iron hoop, of 
 about an inch in length. 
 
 When the piece of iron was held up to 
 their attention, they were all feized with 
 a kind of filent, but expreffive joy, that can- 
 not be defcribed : but the man who procu- 
 red it, immediately began to caper and 
 dance round the deck, and laying down on 
 his back, tumbled and rolled about in fuch 
 an extraordinary manner, that we really 
 imagined he was fuddenly afFe(5led by forae 
 very Angular diforder, till he rofe up and 
 kiffed the bit of iron with thofe emotions of 
 extravagant joy, which manifeflcd the ex- 
 treme delight he felt at being in the poffef- 
 fion of what he efteemed fo great a treafure. 
 Ills comrades, from an anxious curiofity to 
 fee it, cro .vded round him ; but in a mo- 
 ment 
 
 127 
 1788. 
 
 FtlJRUARr. 
 
 n 
 
 1" 
 
I- 
 
 m 
 
 If 
 
 
 W 
 
 ' m 
 
 y 
 
 
 ■■ : t' 
 
 .1 
 
 :, 1 
 
 •v: 
 
 128 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. ment he had plunged himfelf into the fea, 
 February, and then turning his head towards us, and 
 again ki/Ting the bit of iron, h^ fwam haftily 
 to the Ihore. Several iron hoops were now 
 ordered to be cut up, and each of our vifi- 
 tors was gratified with a bit of the preci- 
 ous metal, who all left us with reiterated 
 expreflions of the tnoft grateful acknowledge- 
 ment. 
 
 Thefe iflanders are of a frank, amiable 
 and confidential difpofition ; and they found 
 in return, that kind of reception from us, 
 which they will not quickly forget. We 
 obferved, however, in their canoes large 
 mats, which, on enquiry, they informed us 
 were ufed by them as coats of mail, and 
 were capable of refifting the attack of a 
 Ipear ; indeed, fo clofe and ftrong is their 
 texture, that at a very fmall diftance, they 
 could fcarcely be penetrated by a ball from 
 a piftol. It appeared, therefore, and the 
 reflexion is not of a pleating nature, that 
 thefe amiable people knew the arts, and, of 
 courfe, muft frequently feel the horrors of 
 war ; and that the god of battle beholds 
 his vidims in the remoteft corners of the 
 globe. 
 
 This 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 129 
 
 This groupe of iflands was originally dif- 1788. 
 covered by Captain Carteret, in his voyage February. 
 round the world. He was pleafed to give 
 them the name of the Freewill Ifles, from 
 the frank and unreferved condu(5l of the 
 inhabitants. It may not, perhaps, be gene- 
 rally remembered, that one of them accom- 
 panied him in the Swallow: — He was called 
 Tom Freewill, and died in his paflage to 
 the Celebes. 
 
 The interval that had elapfed from the 
 period of Captain Carteret's vifit to thefe 
 iflands, to the time of our appearance be- 
 fore them, occupied fo confiderable a fpacc, 
 that this young man's departure with him, 
 might very naturally be fuppofed to have 
 been forgotten by his countrymen. But, 
 on the contrary, feveral of the natives point- 
 ed to the fhip, and then to fea, and by other 
 fignificant geftures gave us to underftand, 
 that one of them had been carried away. 
 As we were well acquainted with the cir- 
 cumftancc from Captain Carteret's journal, 
 we, in return, informed them that their 
 fugitive countryman was no more : when 
 they all entered into an immediate confer- 
 ence, and then renewed their communi- 
 
 di. 
 
 U 
 
 n 
 
 ^ 1 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 I 
 
 cations, 
 
 J 
 

 '1 ■ 
 
 i.v >• 
 
 tv 
 
 % J 
 
 I2Q VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. cations, with art air of perfect indifference. 
 
 February. At leaft there did not appear to be any one 
 
 among them who, as a friend or relation, 
 
 exprefl'ed the leaft concern for poor Tom 
 
 Freewill's fate ! 
 
 We now refumed our courfe to the North 
 Eaft, with a gentle gale from the Weft 
 North Weft. On palling to the North- 
 ward of the iflands, we obferved that they 
 were conne(Sled by very dangerous reefs of 
 rocks, which extended three or four miles 
 in every direftion. At funfet, the body of 
 the iflands bore North North Weft, at the 
 diftance of four leagues. ■ i ., 
 
 ThurfJay 28 The Weather on the 28th became fqually ; 
 the wind veering continually from North 
 to North Eaft, fo that we feldom made good 
 our courfe better than Eaft, or Eaft by South. 
 At noon the latitude was 0° 55', the winds 
 light, with heavy fqualls of rain, and much 
 thunder and lightning. 
 
 Friday 39 On the 29th in the morning, as we were 
 ftanding to the North, with a light air from 
 the South Eaft, land was difcovered from 
 the maft-head; as v/e ran (;ed up with it, we 
 found it to be the Freewill Ifles. This was 
 a circumftance which we could not eafily 
 
 recon- 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 kjl 
 
 reconcile; and as the iflands in this ocean 1788. 
 bear a ftrong refemblance to each other, we, F"Ruary. 
 at firft, thought that we muft be miftaken ; 
 but the point was foon fettled by the arrival 
 of many of our late friends, who came 
 paddling through the reefs to bring us a pre- 
 fent of cocoa-nuts, for which, they were 
 with fome difficulty perfuaded to take any 
 thing in return. One man, in particular, 
 held up a bit of iron which he had received 
 from us but two days before, as a token that 
 he remembered his benefadlors. 
 
 At noon the latitude was 1° 7' North ; 
 and, by a medium of the feveral diflances 
 of the fun and moon, the longitude was 
 I37*» 10' Eaft. The body of Freewill IHes 
 now bore South Eaft half Eaft, at the dif- 
 tance of four leagues; which leaves them in 
 the latitude of 0° 56' North of the Line, and 
 in the longitude of 137** Eaft of Greenwich, 
 
 The currents muft on the 28th have fwept 
 us bodily to leeward ; but, as we imagined, 
 not with fo much force as to occafion our 
 falling in again with thefe iflands; — on the 
 contrary, we found that, on ftanding to 
 the North, for the laft twenty-four hours, 
 though we were fteering Eaft, our courfe 
 
 I 2 was 
 
 I 
 
■w 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 i3i 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 S:i 
 
 1788. was not much better than South, a little 
 March. Eafterly. 
 
 atiuday 1 We did not lofe fight of thefe iflands till 
 the firfl- of March ; when, at noon, our la- 
 titude was 1° 40' North ; the wind, as ufual, 
 veering from North Eaft, to Eaft North 
 Eaft. The weather was gloomy, unfettled, 
 and very fultry. At times, we had heavy 
 fqualls of rain, which proved very unwhole- 
 fome for the crew, from conftaiit damps, 
 a clofc atmofphere, and wet cloaths. To 
 thefe unpleafant circumftances maybe added, 
 our flow progrefs to the North, which fo 
 affe<5ted their fpirits, and of courfe relaxed 
 their affcivity, that all the attention and care 
 of the officers were requifite, to check the 
 • progrefs of fuch an alarming evil. 
 
 C H A P. 
 
 ,,wfl*8r, ^-.vTT 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 ^33 
 
 1788. 
 
 March. 
 
 l^xtremeHeat of the JVeather — Very tempejluous, 
 — Spring the Foremaji, — Lofs of fome of the 
 
 ■■ Cattle. — Lofe all the Goats. — DcJirtiBion of 
 many of the Plants intended for the Sandwich 
 IJles. — Reafons for pointing the Ship's Courfe 
 to the North JVeJl, lic^^Modc of vidfuaUing 
 the Crew. Occupations on Board. — Intention 
 of Building a Fcjfel of ffiy Tons in King 
 George'' s Sound. — Carpenters complete her 
 Moulds and Model. — Ch'mefe Carpenters ig- 
 norant of Ship-building. — Great Burthen of 
 the Chinefc Junhs. — Party felccied to^remain 
 in King George^ s Sound. — Experience the 
 'Tail of a Tufoon.-'Clnwge of the Monfoons. 
 ''^Terrible Effects of Tujfoons in the Chinefe 
 Seas and horthcrn Pacific Ocean, 
 
 V r 
 
 
 m 
 
 ) 
 
 /^Nthe 2d of Mauch, tlie longitude of Sunday 2 
 ^■^ the flilp, by a mcdiutii of foveral dlf- 
 ftances of tlie fun and moon, was 136° 37' 
 Eail of Greenwich, and the latitude 2° 52' 
 North. At this time, the variation of the 
 compafs was 2^3o''Eaft, and the quickfilver 
 
 1 3 in 
 
 ■I 
 
 • > 
 
i' ' 
 
 j3^ VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. in the thermometer was at 86, and often at 
 March, po, lo that ue lutFcred very much from the 
 extremity of the heat. 
 
 The currents very feldom allowed us to 
 make our courfe better than by South Eaft ; 
 and hitherto there appeared no probability 
 of being able to weather New Guinea. We 
 had, indeed, conquered the North Cape ; 
 but there remained New Ireland, New Ha- 
 nover, and many different groupes and cluf- 
 ters of iflands, to the Noi thward of the Line, 
 and many degrees to the Eaftward of our 
 iituation. If we had purfund our courfe, 
 we muft have determined either to proceed 
 through Dampier's Straits, or thofe difco- 
 vered by Captain Carteret, which divide 
 New Britain from New Hanover ; but if 
 both thefe paflages were rejefted, there was 
 no alternative left but to ftand to the North- 
 ward and Weflward ; and to endeavour to 
 obtain as much of the former as would per- 
 mit us to tack and weather all. On a due 
 confideration ofourcircumftancesand fitua- 
 tion, the laft was preferred ; the (hip there- 
 fore was tacked, and flood to the North Weft, 
 with the wind at North Eaft,— a point the 
 jnoft diftrefling to us of the whole compafs. 
 • " . The 
 
 m-hAf^l*- 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i^c 
 
 The ftock of frelh provifions we received 1788. 
 at Samboingan was fufficient to laft us till March. 
 this time ; a circumftance which was at- 
 tended with the two- fold advantage of faving 
 the fait provifions, and conducing to the 
 health of the crew. A plentiful allowance 
 of water was continued, as the beft pre- 
 fervative againft the fcurvy ; and, if a di- 
 minution of this article fliould be requifite 
 in any part of the paflhge, we naturally de- 
 termined it fhould take place in the colder 
 latitudes, as, atprefent, an extreme andclofe 
 heat required every liquid aid to preferve 
 health, by fuftaining perfpiration. 
 
 On the 3d, the weather became extremely Monday 3 
 tempeftuous. We had continual fqualls from 
 the North Eaft, accompanied by deluges of 
 rain, which very frequently obliged us to 
 ihorten fail. Our courfe. was feldom better 
 than North Weft, though we fometimes 
 were enabled to make a tack or two to the 
 Eaft South Eaft and Eaft, when the fquall 
 was favourable. In this fituation, at noon, 
 we found the foremaft dangeroufly fprung 
 below the hounds ; every exertion therefore 
 was required to fecure it, as a very heavy fea 
 occafioned the fhip to pitch exceedingly. 
 
 1 4 The 
 
 -■■■^■■• Wl ^M 
 
1 
 
 H>>^ 
 
 
 J25 ' VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. The top-maft and top-gallant-mafl: were 
 
 March, accordingly got down on deck, and the fails 
 
 unbent ; ftages were alio prepared round the 
 
 head of the mart, and the carpenters were 
 
 immediately employed in preparing fiflies. 
 
 This misfortune was accompanied with 
 fcveral others of a very mortifying nature. 
 The late bad weather and rolling of the fhip, 
 had deftroyed fome of the cattle and many 
 of the plants, in particular a fine orange- 
 tree, in full bloom; and half of the cinna- 
 . mon-trees which we had received at Sam- 
 boingan. There, however, yet remained 
 alive one bull and a cow, and one cow calf; 
 but the goats were all killed in one day by 
 a I'udden roll of the (hip. Of the plants we 
 ftill pofleflbd a lime and an orange- tree, in 
 full vigour, with fix cinnamon, and feveral 
 fmaller plants of various kinds. 
 Tuefday4 Qii the 4th, at iioon, the latitude, by 
 double altitudes, was 3° o' North ; and the 
 longitude, deduced from the lafl obferva- 
 tion pf the fun and moon, 137° 59' Eaft 
 ,y of Greenwich. The wind blew from the 
 
 North Eaft, and we purfued our courfe to the 
 Eaft South Eaft. The weather was dark, 
 
 blowing 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^ | ^» 
 
 and tcmpcftuous^with heavy fqualls of wind 17^8. 
 and rain, which railed a confuted fca. "* March. 
 
 It was not till die s;ih that the mafl: was VvcdneiUay^ 
 fccured, the fifhing of which was a hufinels 
 of no common ditficulty ; and, after all, we 
 were not without the moft anxious apprc- 
 henfions that it would not fland againft the 
 blowing and ftormy weather we expelled to 
 meet to the Northward of the tropical la- 
 titudes. ' 
 
 Till the 1 2th wc continued to embrace any WedncfJayia 
 favourable moments of the wind. Whenever 
 it veered to the Eaft North Eaft, we tacked 
 and ftood to the Northward and Wcftward ; 
 and if it veered to the North, our courfe 
 was bent to the Eafrward. It feldom, how- 
 ever, permitted our ftanding long on either 
 tack ; for it generally blew very ftrong, with 
 heavy fqualls of rain. Our latitude, at 
 noon, was therefore but 3° 15' North, and 
 the longitude 144° 25' Eafl ; and on the 
 17th, we had advanced no further than 3° 25' ^°^'^^y '7 
 North, and 146° 30' Eaft. Such was our 
 tedious progrefs, whicli, togetiicr with a 
 continuance of the moft unpleafant and un- 
 wholefome weather, tended, more or Icfs, 
 to difpirit every one on board. But this was 
 
 ' i 
 
 • rA 
 
 • /; 
 
 ■'^t 
 
Ij8 VOYAGES TO THE • ' 
 
 1 788. '^ot all ; the continual damps, proceeding 
 March, from the frequent rains, and the people being, 
 from the fame circumflance, fo often, as 
 well as (o long in wet cloathing, together 
 with moid decks, awakened our apprehen- 
 iions to encrcafing fymptoms of the fcurvy. 
 In this fituation, we doubted very much 
 whether we (hould be able to weather the 
 iflands of New Ireland or New Hanover, 
 which bore off us not only Eaft South Eaft, 
 but many degrees to the Eaftward. We had 
 worked into our prefent pofition immediately 
 in the wind's eye. 
 
 Some of the difficulties which would pro- 
 bably attend the purfuing of our firft track, 
 have already been mentioned ; nor were we 
 to hope for a change from the fun's near 
 approach to the equinoctial. Tedious calms, 
 attended with heavy rains, were naturally 
 to be expe<5ted with a vertical fun. A fmall 
 portion of our voyage was yet performed, and 
 an immenfe track yet lay before us, to reach 
 to the 1 60th degree of longitude, when we 
 muft neceffarily crofs the Line. 
 
 According to the manner in which we had 
 
 proceeded, we fliould not, in all probability, 
 
 gain that objedt before the 10th of April ;— 
 
 ^ % on 
 
 ^»!»n -^ , ; 
 
N01!^TH WEST COAST OP AMSRICA. 
 
 139 
 
 on the other hand, if we (leered to the North 1 788. 
 Weft, we had grounds tor expedting a change Maich. 
 of w'ifld in ovir favour, if not the monfoon, 
 by the i ft of April : — it was, therefore, again 
 refolv'xl to weather the Philippines, and 
 point our courfc fteadily to the North Weft. 
 With plenty of water, each man was al- 
 lowed half a pint of fpirits in the courfc of 
 the day, two-thirds of which were mixed 
 with water, and the remainder, at this time, 
 ferved in its raw ftate, which often proved a 
 falutary and cheering cordial in the rainy- 
 weather. The provifions were ordered in the 
 beft manner we could conceive to preferve 
 health, or, at leaft, to check the progrefs 
 of difeafe. — In the morning and evening tea 
 and fugar were ferved out to the crtw ; — 
 they had abundance of rice, peas, and bar- 
 ley, which, with flour and fruit, were ferved 
 with every poftible variety they would admit. 
 The pork and beef were always well fteeped, 
 and the conftant ufe of vinegar was called 
 in aid to contribute its ftiare towards cor- 
 recting the bad efFe(Sts of faked provifions. 
 
 We kept ftanding on to the North Weft, Sunday 34 
 and nothing material happened between the 
 laft and the prefent date. The weather was 
 
 now, 
 
 
 |.i 
 
 y 
 
VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 
 140 
 
 1*788. iiow, indeed, become extremely pleafant, 
 . March, and the heavy fqualls of whid and rain which 
 had fo continually diftrefled us, were, for 
 the prefent, entirely diflipated. At noon, the 
 latitude was 21° 2' North, and the longi- 
 tude 139'^ 48' Eaft ; the variation of the 
 compafs 4^ 24' Eaft. During this run we 
 every day faw large flocks of birds, Ibme of 
 which we perceived to be of that fpecies 
 which never fly far from land. 
 
 We embraced the opportunity wjiich was 
 afforded us by the prefent favourable wea- 
 ther, to overhaul our fails, and prepare for 
 the tempeftuous weather we had every rea- 
 fon to expe<5l in our progrefs tq the North, 
 efpecially near Japan. Two compleat new 
 fuits of fails were prepared, new roped, lined 
 and middle ftitched ; all the old fails were, 
 at the fame time, put in a tolerable ftate. 
 
 The coopers, armourers, and other artifans 
 were always properly employed, either in 
 the immediate iervlce of the Ihip, or ac- 
 cording to their (kill, in preparing articles of 
 trade for the American market. — The Chi- 
 nefe armourers were very ingenious, and 
 worked with fuch a degree of facility that 
 we preferred them to thofe of Europe. The 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 141 
 
 inftruments they employ in their work are 1^88. 
 extremely fimple and they very (hortly ac- March. 
 complifli any defign that is placed before 
 them. 
 
 The carpenters were alfo at work in pre- 
 paring the moulds and model for a floop of 
 fifty tons that was defigned to be built im- 
 mediately on our arrival in King George's 
 Sound, as fuch a veffel would be of the 
 utmoft utility, not only in colle61:ing furs, 
 but in exploring the coaft. 
 
 Our head carpenter was a young man 
 of much ingenuity and profeflional Ikill, who 
 had ferved his time in London ; but the 
 Chinefe artificers in this branch had not the 
 leaft idea of our mode of naval archited:ure. 
 The veflels of their nation which navigate - 
 the China and adjacent feas, are of a con- 
 flrudtion peculiar to them. In veflels of a 
 thoufand tons burthen not a particle of iron 
 is ufed ; their very anchors are formed of 
 wood, and their enormous fails made of 
 matting. Yet thefe floating bodies of timber 
 are able to encounter any tempeftuous wea- 
 ther, hold a remarkable good wind, fail 
 well, and are worked with fuch facility and 
 care as to call forth the aftonifliment of 
 
 Eu- 
 
 ■I %.h 
 
 Smf0W: 
 
 ^f!.,*»»,T. 
 
142 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 
 W 
 
 1788. European fuilors. It was, therefore, a mat- 
 
 March. ter of Ibme difficulty to turn the profeflional 
 
 Ikill of our Chincfe carpenters to a mode of 
 
 . application fo entirely different from their 
 
 own habitual experience and pradlice. 
 
 A party was fele£led from the crew who 
 were to be left on fliore with the artificers, 
 to be employed in building the veffel. This 
 arrangement was made at fuch an early pe- 
 riod, in order that the people might be fully 
 prepared, immediately on our arrival in the 
 Sound, to begin their intended operations. 
 It is true that we had no one article in 
 readinefs for the purpofe; our timber was 
 ftanding in the forerts of America, the iron 
 work was, as yet, in rough bars on board, 
 and the cordage which was to be formed into 
 ropes, was yet a cable. Neverthelefs, en- 
 couraged by that fpirit of ardent hope which 
 animates man to oppofc the difficulties of 
 life, and invigorates life itfelf, we looked 
 forward with a kind of Cvirtain expectation 
 » that our purpofe would be effected, and that 
 ihfi veffel in contemplation would be actually 
 launched fomc time in the month of Oc- 
 tober. , 
 ■■"--. -••. ' ' : On 
 
I.) 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ,4- 
 
 On the I ft of April at noon, the lati- 1788. 
 tude was 22* 26' North, and the longitude April. 
 139° 38' Eaft. The weather feemed to have "* *^ 
 acquired a fettled gloom, the clouds were 
 uncommonly black and heavy, and, through- 
 out the day, there was much thunder and 
 lightning. Numerous flocks of birds pafled 
 us from the windward, making loud noifes 
 in their paflage, as if apprehenfive of bad 
 weather. We alfo pafled fome rock- weed, 
 which was a fign of being at no very great 
 diftance from land. 
 
 On the 2d, the thunder and lightning Wednefdayi 
 cncreafed, without being accompanied with 
 any confiderable degree of wind. The fea, 
 neverthelefs, was in an unufual commotion, 
 and the fliip pitched fo heavy, that the 
 head-rails were carried away, and (bme other 
 injuries fuflrai'ied. — ^Towards noon it became 
 fqually, and we experienced feveral puffs of 
 wind from every point of the compafs, which, 
 with the encreafing darknefs, left us no 
 doubt of the approach of a very violent ftorm. 
 — ^The top-gallant yards and mafts were 
 got down on deck,— the main-fail furled, — 
 the top-fails clofe reefed, and the mizen ba- 
 lanced. All the fails were handed, except 
 
 5 the 
 
 
 t. 
 
 I- n 
 
 ■ >. i » ■ 
 
 "< » id» 
 
 Mmmv'^ ' " ■ 
 
m 
 
 
 J 4 A "^ VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. ^^iic main top-fall, which it was judged pru- 
 Ai'uiL. dent to keep abroad : in this iituation we 
 waited the coming of the tempeft ; nor did 
 it difappolnt our expedations. At two P. M. 
 the wind (hifted to the South, and began to 
 blow ftrong in fqualls: the fliip's head was 
 kept to the North Eaft ; it thundered and 
 lightned with great violence, and at half paft 
 three an heavy fquall came from the South 
 Eafl", inftantly followed by another from the 
 South Weft, both of which blew, for a fhort 
 time, with alternate and incredible fury; 
 the latter, however, prevailed, and continued 
 blowing f\"om the South Weft for near an 
 hour. Indeed, the meeting of thefe two 
 fqualls to leeward of us, was tremendous, 
 and the fea was carried to fucli an height as 
 to keep the horizon in a continual foam. 
 Happily fur us, we experienced only the 
 ■ tail of this tuiibon or wliirlwind; but, as it 
 was, we expected every moment to have the 
 mafts ftiattered to pieces ; the main top-fail 
 having been fwept away, and frittered to 
 threads. ■ ■ 
 
 The fea foon rofe to fuch an alarming 
 heinht, that it became neceftary to let the 
 fore-fail and feud before the ilorm, in order 
 
 to 
 
 i-C-ii^. 
 
NORTH WESt COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 «4j 
 
 ed pru- 
 tion we 
 nor did 
 oP.M. 
 egan to 
 ead was 
 red and 
 lalf paft 
 s South 
 "rem the 
 r a fhort 
 e fury; 
 )ntuiued 
 near an 
 lefe two 
 lendous, 
 eight as 
 d foam, 
 nly the 
 Lit, as it 
 ave the 
 top-fail 
 leied to 
 
 [arming 
 
 ifet the 
 
 n order 
 
 to 
 
 to preferve the (hip, which plowed her way 1788. 
 with furprifing fwiftnefs. It now blew from Apml. 
 the :^^outh Eail with a prodigious fea, before 
 which we kept (leering. Thus we were 
 fcudding along, when, to the leeward of us, 
 we perceived the water to rife many feet 
 above the level of the fea in circles, which 
 formed a beautiful but awful (ight ; fo that 
 we were obliged to perform the very un- 
 pleafant, and, indeed, rather.dangerous opera- 
 tion, of heaving to in fuch a high fea, to 
 avoid running into the dreadful vortex before 
 us, which continued, as it were, to fweep 
 the horizon till five o'clock ; when this 
 alarming whirlwind fub(ided, and fettled in 
 an heavy gale from the South Weft, be- 
 fore which we fcudded to the North Eaft. 
 
 To thofe who have read Kempfer's Hif- 
 tory of Japan, the violence of this tuflbon 
 will not be con(idered as a circumftance 
 that borders on phaenomenon, — fuch horrid 
 gufts of wind being at certain periods, accord- 
 ing to that writer, the common difturbers of 
 thofe feas : though we had feveral old and 
 experienced feamen in the (hip, who had 
 never before feen anything of this terrible 
 nature. We, however, confoled ourfelves 
 
 Vol. I. K with 
 
 
.^6 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 ^^ 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 r 
 
 1788. with the belief that it was the critical mo- 
 April. ment when the Monfbons changed ; more 
 particularly as the ftorm from the South 
 Weft blew in fuch a fteady current. 
 
 Had this ftorm happened when it was dark, 
 it might have proved fatal ; as it was, we 
 were not a little furprifed that fome of the 
 mafts or yards were not carried away : 
 however, we were not fufficiently recovered 
 from our alarms, to venture upon fetting 
 much fail during the fucceeding night. 
 
 The period when the Monfoons change 
 in the China feas, and the Northern Pacific 
 Ocean, is a time that (hould be dreaded by 
 every fliip that navigates them. — Thefe 
 changes are generally in the months of April 
 and Odober, though they fometimes happen 
 not only much earlier, but alfo much later 
 in the feafbn. That which is confidered 
 as moft dangerous, is the variation from the 
 North Eaft to the South Weft, when ftorms 
 very generally trouble thofe feas. They 
 are remarkably violent on the coaft of Ja- 
 pan ; but when they a rife into a tufFoon, 
 no power or ftrength can withftand them. 
 Thf ruin they fometimes occafion is almoft 
 incredible ; — nor is it lefs diiiicult to con- 
 ceive 
 
 ■''^^mmmmxmm^ 
 
deal mo- 
 ed; more 
 he South 
 
 It. 
 
 was dark, 
 t was, we 
 ne of the 
 ed away : 
 ' recovered 
 ,011 fetting 
 night. 
 >ns change 
 lern Pacific 
 dreaded by 
 1. — Thefe 
 ths of April 
 mes happen 
 much later 
 
 confidered 
 )n from the 
 
 hen ftorms 
 leas. They 
 
 oaft of Ja- 
 a tufFoon, 
 
 and them. 
 
 11 is almoft 
 
 lult to con- 
 ceive 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 ceive with what fury they blow from every 
 point of the compafs. 
 
 The Chinefe dread, beyond all meafure, 
 thefe violent hurricanes, which fometimes 
 fweep large villages and their inhabitants 
 to deftrudlion : at other times whole harvefts 
 arediflipated by their deftru£live breathy and 
 famine follows. — From a fimilar caufe, in 
 the year 1787, accompanied with exceffive 
 drought, a moll dreadful dearth prevailed 
 throughout the Southern provinces of Chi- 
 na, by which an incredible number of people 
 perilhed. It was no uncommon thing at 
 Canton to fee the famiflied wretch breathing 
 his laft ; while mothers thought it a duty 
 to deftroy their infant children, and the 
 ' young to give the ftroke of fate to the aged, 
 to fave them from the agonies of fuch a 
 dilatory death. 
 
 147 
 
 K2 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 1788. 
 
 April. 
 
 I 
 
 . «^^..^ •-»•'■ 
 
 .-.».« IH:iyr-*'»~.fti i: 
 
148 
 
 1788. v; 
 
 April. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 - 1 
 
 l./r « 
 
 •1 
 
 Tliurfday 3 
 
 Landfeefiy but prevented from approaching it. 
 '^Difcovery of Iflands, which we named 
 
 ' Grampus TJles. — Feel the Weather extremely 
 
 ■ cold^ with the probable Reafon of it, — 2V«/«- 
 her of Birds feen. — Pafs by great ^antities 
 of Rock-weed. — Difcover aflupendous Rocky 
 
 '" which we named 'Lot'' s Wife, — T*he Rafter of 
 an Houfe^ and a Piece of Canoe feen floating 
 on the Water. — Tempefluous Weather. — 
 
 . Weather becomes flormy as the American Coajl 
 
 is approached.'^Crofs the Tracks of the Re- 
 
 folution and Difcovery.-^— Error of the Ship's 
 
 Reckoning, &c. — A Sea Parrot fen for the 
 
 ■ firfi Time. — "Extraordinary Brightnefs in the 
 
 ' Atmofphere, . and to what Caufe attributed. — 
 The Coaji of America feen. — Princefs Royal 
 fails out of King George's Sound. — Difirefs of 
 the Felice, ^c. — Anchor in Friendly CovCy 
 in King George's Sound. 
 
 ON the 3d of April, the weather became 
 moderate, and the ftorm fubfided ; but 
 about noon, the wind (hifted to North Weft, 
 and blew with extreme violence, accompa- 
 
 I nied 
 
 -t?i^-«T::.: 
 
 -^V, 
 
 ''-■'^mtrmmm'i.r'imi^.' 
 
r 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 149 
 1788. 
 
 April 
 
 nied by a ftrong nnd mountainous Tea. Our 
 courfc was to the Eaft by Nortli, under clofe 
 reefed top-falls and fore-fail. The latitude 
 was 24° 56' North, and the longitude i43°39' 
 Eaft of Greenwich. 
 
 Towards night it again moderated, when 
 we made fail ; — the wind now Ihifted to the 
 Eaft South Eaft, and we ftood to the North 
 Eaft till the 4th ; when the wind fixed itfelf FiUW 4 
 in the North Eaft quarter, and we according- 
 ly ftood to the North Weft, with fine and 
 moderate weather. ' ,' < 
 
 In this fituation, land was feen bearing 
 Eaft North Eaft, diftant eight leagues, im- 
 mediately in the wind's eye, which pre- 
 vented us from approaching it. Our latitude 
 at noon was 24° 44' North, and longitude, 
 deduced from our laft lunar obfervations, 
 145" 41' Eaft of Greenwich. We regretted 
 very much that we were not able to approach 
 this land, as we knew of none in this part 
 of the Northern Pacific Ocean. As we were 
 fteering to the North Weft, we fbon entirely 
 loftfightofit. ^ 
 
 On the 5th, the wind ftiifted to the South Saturday s 
 Eaft, which enabled us to fteer to the North 
 Eo^t, when at two o'clock in the afternoon 
 
 K 3 we 
 
 \ 
 
 «j^«;ii59«.*<«*«**""*'*» *>'♦*••■'**— ***^—^*V'*'''*' --^^ 4 .w.'v»5:i» J.'J»4. 
 
I5« 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 It s 
 
 
 , \ 
 
 1788. we thought land was vifible to the Eaft 
 AmiL. South Eaft ; but the weather was fb extreme- 
 ly hazy, that it could not be afcertalned 
 whether it was land or a fog-bank. At 
 . three, however, land was feen in the North 
 Eaft right a-head, but the weather continued 
 to be fo thick and foggy, that the dire6lion 
 in which it extended could not be difcerned. 
 • At half paft four, we were abreaft of it, at 
 the diftance of five or fix miles, when it 
 appeared to be an ifland, but of no great 
 . extent. It now rained very hard, and the 
 atmofphere remained fo hazy, that our ob- 
 ; ferv^tions of the land were rather imperfe£l. 
 
 It however appeared to be one of thofc bar- 
 ren ifles fo frequently found in thcfe feas. — 
 Its length might be fifteen or fix teen miles 
 - from North to South ; the fhore feemed to 
 be inacceffible to boats, from a great furf 
 beating againft the rocks, which terminated 
 abruptly in the fca. The interior parts of 
 tlie country appeared to be high, and a few 
 folitary trees vve'*e very fparingly fcattered 
 on their declivities. We failed along the 
 : Ihores of this ifland till fix o'clock, when 
 another ifland opened to our view, which 
 was feparated from the former by a channel 
 
 '' ' ■ ■■■ • ..- ■ •\H . 
 
 r ••••*^>=.a«- 1 
 
 ;m^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 »5» 
 1788. 
 
 April. 
 
 of three or four lengues. It now Mew very 
 ftrong, with rain, and fo thick a fog, that 
 we could fee no diflance a-head. 
 
 Though the gale was favourable, yet, 
 from the appearance of the weather, it was 
 thought prudent to fliorten lail, and remain 
 under fuch as would enable us to haul to 
 the wind on either tack. The utmoft vi- 
 gilance and attention was employed to guard 
 as much as pofhble againd any danger, and 
 we failed, as ufual, all night with the courfes 
 hauled up in the brails. Thefe ifles, of 
 which we could not difcern the number, 
 were named Grampus Ifles, from feeing a 
 large grampus fpouting up water clofe to the 
 (hore, which is a very uncommon fight in 
 thofe ieas. 
 
 The night of the 5th was very ten^peftu- 
 ous, with conftant rain ; but to confole us 
 for thefe inconveniencies, we had a fair gale, 
 with which we made great way to the 
 North Eaft. 
 
 On the 6th, the wind fliifted to the North Sunday c 
 Weft, which brought us clear weather, and 
 blew a fteady gale. At noon the latitude was 
 27*30' North, and the longitude 148"* 37' 
 
 K4 Eaft. 
 
 % 
 
 Ik 
 
 4*\ 
 

 [^ 
 
 J -J . VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. Eaft. At this time the variation of the com-^ 
 APMt. pafs was 3° 20' Eaft. 
 
 Our progrefs to the North now became 
 very rapid, and we experienced a very fud- 
 ' den tranfition from heat to cold. Having 
 juft left a climate where the heats had been 
 intenfe and opprefiivc, it was very natural 
 the active operations of cold (hould be very 
 fenfibly felt by the whole crew. This cir- 
 cumftance, however, enabled us to reduce 
 the allowance of water from a gallon to five 
 pints per man, without any inconvenience 
 whatever arifing from fuch an alteration. 
 Tucfday8 The favourable gale at North Weft con- 
 tinued till the eighth at noon. The latitude 
 then was 28'' 58' North, and the longitude 
 154" 19' Eaft. — Our principal obje(St was to 
 get to the North as faft as poffible, in order 
 to benefit by the ftrong Wefterly winds, as 
 w?ll as to run down our longitude in an 
 high latitude. This North Weft gale con- 
 tinued to us the {harp piercing cold which 
 has been already mentioned. 
 ■Wcdiiefday9 The next day we pafled by a confiderable 
 quantity of rock-weed, vvhich we imagined 
 to be but lately broken off, and for feveral 
 , days we had feen great numbers of birds. 
 
 • We 
 
 li <. 
 
 t4N 
 
 - l f» Wl ll< 
 
i 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA. 
 
 \Vc were now confiderably to the North- 
 ward of the feveral fmall i (lands fcattered 
 cither within or about the tropic, in the 
 Northern Pacific Ocean. We could not, 
 therefore, form any probable conjecture from 
 whence this weed came, and whither the 
 birds retired at night, as they regularly left 
 us about funfet, and took their flight to the 
 Eaft. 
 
 About nine o'clock in the morning, a fail 
 was defcried from the mad-head, and, in 
 about half an hour a large (i»ip was feen from 
 the deck. She appeared to be under an ex- 
 traordinary croud of fail, and exhibited a 
 very fingular figure, for not one of us, even 
 with the afliftance of glafTes, could make out 
 which way ftie was (landing. The fight of 
 a (hip in thofe feas was fuch an unufual cir- 
 cumftance, that for fome time conjcfture 
 was at a lofs concerning it. At length, how- 
 ever, it was determined to be a galleon, bound 
 to China from New Spain, and by fome 
 cafualty driven thug far to the Northward ; 
 though the track of thofe (hips to Manilla, 
 is generally between the parallels of 13" and 
 f4® North latitude. In confequence of this 
 opinion^ feveral letters were written to in» 
 
 form 
 
 «53 
 
 1788. 
 
 '•■ 
 
 i 
 
 
 -Tl^"* 
 
if' ! 
 
 j-4 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. form our friends in China of our fafety, and 
 April, the progrefs we buv! made in the voyage. 
 This extraordinary delufion, for it was no 
 more, continued till we were within two 
 leagues of the obje£l ; when, on viewing it 
 with aglafs, it was difcoveredto be an huge 
 rock (landing alone amid the waters. — ^The 
 firft among us who became fenfible of the 
 deception remained filent, and diverted them- 
 felves with the ftrange conjectures and hu- 
 morous obfervations of the failors, one of 
 whom was fo certain of its being a fliip, 
 that he was convinced he faw her colours. 
 Its appearance did, indeed, very ftrongly re- 
 femble a firft-rate man of war, under a croud 
 of fail; and fuch was its fhape, that, at a 
 certain diftance, it held forth to the eye the 
 form of every particular fail belonging to a 
 {hip. As we ranged up with this rock, 
 our furprife was proportionably augmented, 
 and the failors were more than difpofed to 
 believe that fome fupernatural power had 
 fuddenly transformed it into itsprefent fhape. 
 It obtained the name of Lot^s IVife, and is 
 one of the moft wonderful objefts, taken in 
 ^11 its circumftafices, which 1 ever beheld. 
 
 \- 
 
 
 Eiii«*«sGs^-;^ ;-.,,;;>&:'-.:::...- — 
 
 Amm**- 
 
 -■ ^-j^m*t 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 ^SS 
 
 By noon we were a-breafl of it; when it 1788. 
 bore Eaft North Eaft four miles. The lati- Ar»ii.. 
 tude was 29° 50' North, and the longitude 
 142° 23' Eaft of Greenwich. The waves 
 broke againft its rugged front with a fury 
 proportioned to the immenfe diftance they 
 had to roll before they were interrupted by 
 it. It rofe almoft perpendicular to the height, 
 according to the tables, of near three hundred 
 and fifty feet. A fmall black rock appeared 
 juft above the water, at about forty or fifty 
 yards from its Weftern edge. There was •: 
 a cavern on its South Eaftern fide, into 
 which the waters rolled with an awful and , 
 tremendous noife. In regarding this ftupen- 
 dous rock, which ftood alone iij an immenfe 
 ocean, we could not but confider it as an 
 object which had been able to refift one of 
 thofe great convulfions of nature that change 
 the very form of thofe parts of the globe 
 which they are permitted to defolate. ■ 
 
 This day, at noon, our latitude was ^^^ 18' Saturday la 
 North, and the longitude 161° Eaft, with a . 
 fteady gale from the Southward. We pafTed 
 by a great quantity of rock -weed, and faw 
 feveral large flocks of birds. In the evening, 
 a piece of timber, which appeared to be the - 
 
 \ rafter 
 
 ft 
 
 I,?- 
 
 A 
 
 . ^^,^-y^ -r* 
 
 '''^-i^^^ 
 
I i 
 
 1^5 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. rafter of an houfe, and a piece of a canoe, 
 April, were feen floating upon the water, and fbon 
 after a fpar, that appeared to have been 
 newly cut. Thcfe were certain indications 
 of land, and occafioned, if poflible, an added 
 exertion of vigilance, as this part o^ the 
 Pacific Ocean is entirely unknown. 
 
 In the evening of this day the weather 
 became gloomy and overcaft, with every 
 ufual appearance of an approaching ftorm. 
 It blew ftrong throughout the night, and 
 Sunday 13 on the following day, at noon, the gale was 
 confiderably encreafed. The topgallant yards 
 and mafts were accordingly got down on 
 deck, and every other precaution taken to 
 provide againft the bad weather that threat- 
 ened us. Our apprehenfions were fhortly 
 realized; for about four o'clock, it blew 
 with fuch violence from the South, that we 
 were obliged to clofe reef the topfails, and 
 hand the mainfail. The wind was accom- 
 panied with fmall rain and thick weather. 
 We pafied by large quantities of weed ; and 
 the furface of the fea was covered with a 
 reddifli fpawn, that extended feveral miles. 
 It fbon after blew a perfedl ftorm ; the top- 
 fails w^re therefore imp;iediately handed, 
 
 and 
 
 U' " 
 
 h 
 
 mmm-*-'^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA^ ,^- 
 
 and we fcudded before it under a forefail, 1 788. 
 followed by a very heavy fea. — In this (itu- April. 
 ation, we were overtaken by a moft vio- 
 lent guft of wind, which made us appre- 
 henfive of fome material damage.— But very 
 fortunately the topfails had been handed in 
 time, andj the forefail being now reefed, we 
 continued to purfue our courfe. In this 
 heavy guft the wind fliifted to the Weft, and 
 raifed a very confufed fea, which broke on 
 our decks, and endangered the boats ; but, 
 in fhifting its point, the wind did not abate 
 its violence, nor did at all fubfide till the 
 14th, when the latitude was 36° 20' North, Monday 14 
 
 ud the longitude 167° Eaft, 
 
 It was determined to run down our lon- 
 gitude, as much as poffible, in the parallel 
 of 40° North ; and, as it was an unknown 
 track, we were not without the hope of 
 meeting with land, previous to our gaining 
 fight of the Continent of America, evident 
 figns of which had been obferved by Captain 
 Cook, as well as by us, in this latitude. 
 
 —Indeed, from the various circumftances 
 which have already been related, it is highly 
 probable that there is land in this part of the 
 Northern Pacific Ocean. 
 
 The 
 
 i: 
 
 \i 
 
 
 ft 
 
PTffl! 
 
 • i 
 
 i 
 
 l^g Voyages to the 
 
 1788. '^^6 tempefluous weather continued till 
 April, the 17th, when the wind veered to Eaft 
 ^'' South Eaft, and blew with augmented vio- 
 lence. It moderated, however, at noon, 
 when the latitude was 38^ 51' North, and 
 the longitude 175** 10' Eaft. — Though ad- 
 vanced fb far North, we this day pafted a 
 large turtle fleeping on the water, which, 
 being awakened by the noife of the ihip, 
 immediately funk. Large flocks of birds 
 ftill continued to frequent us, and the rock- 
 weed became a common objed. — We now 
 experienced a great degree of cold, and the 
 morning and evening air, in particular, was 
 • ' » uncommonly fharp. The variation of the 
 compafs was 9** 2b' Eaft. 
 Wednrfdayaj Storm fucceeded ftorm till the 23d, when 
 the weather broke, and the wind moderated. 
 Thefe violent gales from the Northward and 
 Weft ward, not only brought with them a 
 biting cold, but alfo fleet and fnow, which 
 made coniiderable depredations on our ftock. 
 — We felt, however, the fatisfadtion of 
 having fair winds, principally from the South 
 Weft, from which quarter it blew very 
 hard ; but when it (hifted to the North Weft, 
 it encreafed beyond the power of defcrip- 
 
 tion. 
 
 woi-i* - ' 
 
 ■Ma 
 
 >->)»T> > n »M <l*i' 
 
 ■■••WtTs 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 tion, with a great and mountainous fea. 
 We had fortunately embraced a favourable 
 opportunity of bending a new fuit of fails, 
 as the old ones muft have been (battered to 
 pieces by the violence of thefe florms. The 
 air was (harp, like that of bleak froft in 
 England, which more fenfibly afFedted us, 
 from our long continuance in tropical cli- 
 mates. Indeed we were not without occa- 
 fional (bowers of fnow and hail. Flocks of 
 birds, and large quantities of rock-weed, 
 continued to encourage an anxious expecta- 
 tion of feeing land. 
 
 On the 23CI, at noon, we paflTed the trunk 
 of a large tree. Our latitude was 41'' 35' 
 North, and the longitude was 189° 25' Eaft 
 of Greenwich. We now began to draw nigh 
 to the American (bore, which was a very de- 
 lirable circuniftance,as, among other prefling 
 reafons, the (hip was become extremely 
 light, from the great expenditure of provi- 
 lions and water. We had, indeed, been of 
 late extremely fortunate in our winds, but 
 much moi:e fo in the health of the crew, 
 who felt no other inconvenience but what 
 arofe from fo quick a tranfition from heat 
 to cold. 
 
 During 
 
 159 
 
 
 1788, 
 
 ArtiL. 
 
 
 
 
 H' ^ 
 
 \ ^ 
 
.'• !■ 
 
 I .'I 
 ■1} 
 
 . 
 
 ' t 
 
 
 
 
 i. 
 (1 
 
 U'' 
 
 
 
 h 
 
 i^-^. 
 
 II 
 
 t 
 
 r 
 
 ■ 
 
 f: 
 
 1 
 
 i I (• 
 
 ^ 
 
 J V 
 
 
 I 
 
 |..l 
 
 1^ 
 
 l€o 
 
 > 
 
 VOYAGES TO THfi 
 
 1788. 
 
 During the night it blew ftrong from the 
 Weft North Weft, with cold rain. On the 
 morning of the 24th the wind backed round 
 to the Southward and Eaftward, a certain 
 prelude of blowing weather ; and at noon it 
 blew fb hard as to oblige us to hand every 
 fail; and, till three in the afternoon, we 
 fufFered as fierce a ftorm as we ever remem- 
 bered to have feen, with a greater fea than 
 we had hitherto experienced. There was 
 alfo continual rain, and the cold did not 
 abate its feverity. The rigging fufFered 
 confiderably, and the fhip ftrained very much 
 in her rolling ; nor were we without our, 
 apprehenfions for the crippled foremaft. But, 
 amid this fevere and tempeftuous weather, 
 we enjoyed the confolatory refledlion that 
 we were every moment approaching nearer 
 to the deftined port. 
 Friday aj On the 25th the weather moderated, and 
 the wind veered to the Weft North Weft. 
 The latitude, at noon, was 43° North, and 
 the longitude by account, 1^6*^ 28'Eaft. It 
 blew a ftrong gale from the Weft South 
 Weft, with clear weather ; and we made 
 good our courfe to the Eaft North Eaft, 
 running feldom lefs than fifty leagues a 
 
 day, 
 
 • i to^mu.mm'MifHilf t, *j»W. 
 
 r^^'> | l ^ l |,HH Ilip P ll H I ^ |l '.i 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 l6l 
 
 day. From the 23(1 we had experienced a 1788. 
 continual fucceflion of gales. We were oc- April. 
 cafionally favoured with an hour or two of 
 clear weather, which was always fucceeded 
 by a return of Horm ; fo that we were never 
 able to fet more than a clofe- reefed topfail. 
 — Our run was no lefs than 230 leagues in ' 
 
 this (hort period, Inf^eed the weather not 
 only continued to be cold and comfortlefs, 
 but was, at timed, fo very cloudy, that we 
 found no opportunity of taking any lunar 
 obfervations, in order to afcertain, with any 
 degree of accuracy, the run of the (hip. 
 
 The fame weather continued, and we pur- 
 fued our courfe without any novelty of fitua- 
 tion or circumftance, till the 30th, whenWednefdayjo 
 a fecond fpar pafled by, which from its ap- 
 pearance, and a notch that had been recently 
 cut in one end of it, could not have been 
 long in the water. — The birds had forfaken 
 us in the beginning of the late tempeftuous 
 weather, and we no longer faw the floating 
 rock-weed, which had, for fome time paft, 
 been a daily obje6l. ' ^ 
 
 We had now twice croffed the tracks of Thurfdayi 
 the Refolution and the Difcovery in thefe 
 feas : that on their return from the Coaft 
 
 Vol. I. L , of 
 
 'I: 
 
 J 
 
 1%^ 
 
i6i 
 
 I* i 
 
 1788. 
 
 Mav. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 of Japan to China, and their later track 
 from Oonalafhka to the Sandwich Iflands. 
 Captain Cook had formed fome flight con- 
 jedlure of there being land between thefe 
 tracks and the coaft of America, and our 
 prefent courfe running dire£lly through that 
 part of the fea, it is moft probable that we 
 Ihould have difcovered it, if there had been 
 any fo contiguous to the American ftiore. 
 
 On our entrance into the month of May, 
 the weather became not only moderate but 
 pleafant :— the wind blew from the South, 
 and we purfued our courfe to the Eaftward. 
 The latitude, at noon, was 46° 5' North, 
 and the longitude, by a medium of feveral 
 diftances of the fun and moon, only 212° 5' 
 Eaft of Greenwich ; whereas, by account, 
 we were in 221° 41' Eafl. — This material 
 difference muil have arifen from the variety 
 of contrary currents we experienced in the 
 low latitudes, as well as thofe which may 
 be fuppofed to have fet us to the Weftward, 
 on our tacking to the Nortli. We had every 
 reafon, therefore, to conjecture that we muft 
 have approached the vicinity of Japan ; and 
 that we accomplifhed our paflage to the 
 North between the iflands of La drone and 
 ^ .4 the 
 
 \ 
 
 ^f 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. i^j 
 
 the New Carolines. The variation of the j^gS. 
 compafs we now found to be 21° 18' Eafl:. may. 
 
 The wind continued to be favourable, Sunday 4 
 though it occafionally blew in ftrong fqualls. 
 The latitude, at noon, was 48° 10' North; 
 and the longitude, deduced from the laft 
 obfervations, 223° 22' Eaft. In the begin- 
 ning it became foggy, and blew from the 
 South South Weft in heavy fqualls, which 
 obliged us to heave to, for the firft time, 
 under the reefed forefail. However, as it 
 moderated in the morning, we bore up, and 
 purfued our courfe to the Eaftward. 
 
 We experienced a ftrong gale till the 7th, Wednefday 7 
 when, at noon, the latitude was 49° 28' 
 North, and the longitude, by a medium of 
 feveral diftances of the fun and moon, 228° 26' \. 
 Eaft. 
 
 On this day, at noon, the latitude was Thmfdayg 
 49® 28' North. In the evening we faw a fea- 
 parrot, and pafled a piece of drift-wood. We 
 had frequent fqualls of hail and fnow, but 
 the weather was more moderate than we had 
 known it for fome time. 
 
 On the loth, the latitude was 49° 3: 
 and the longitude, by the medium of feveral 
 fights, 230° 52' Eaft, and only 3° froni King 
 
 L 2 ' George's 
 
 
 Saturday lo 
 
 if^MMaii'""" ■ i<i«i 
 
1^4 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. George's Sound. We kept running, during 
 Mav. the night, under a prefs of fail, diredlly in 
 for the American coaft. The whole at- 
 mofphere was in a (late of illumination, 
 which we attributed to the reflection of vaft 
 mountains of fnow on the continent: nor 
 were we miftaken ; for, on the morning of 
 sunJayii the iith of May, the. long- wifhed for land 
 of America appeared, bearing Eaft by South, 
 at the diftance of 13 leagues. It confifted 
 of a ridge of mountains, whofe fummits 
 were hid in the clouds. This land might be 
 feen thirty leagues in clear weather. As we 
 clofed in with it in the evening, the vapours 
 cleared away from the tops of the moun- 
 tains. At noon the latitude was, by double 
 altitudes, 49° 35' North, and King George's 
 Sound bore nearly Eaft of us. We kept 
 ' • (landing in for the land, and when within 
 four leagues of it, the wind veered to the 
 South Eaft by Eaft, which obliged us to tack 
 and ftand to fea, the wind blowing almoft 
 immediately out of the Sound, which we 
 now plainly dilcerned. 
 
 A veflel was now feen linder the weather 
 
 land of the Sound, bearing down to us; but 
 
 as we were under a prefs of fail, and night 
 
 ; . ' coming 
 
 l*^-*^'-- ^*ij5( 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 165 
 
 coming on, we could not fpeak to her, 1788, 
 without much inconvenience ; but we never- Mav. 
 thelefs knew her to be the Princefs Royal, 
 of London, on a trading voyage for the furs 
 of America. 
 
 The night of the 1 1 th was a dreadful one ; 
 fuch heavy gufts and fqualls of wind fuc- 
 ceeded each other, that we were prevented 
 from carrying any fail. Thefe fqualls brought 
 hail and fnow along wiih them ; and, to- 
 wards midnight, it blew a perfect ftorm. 
 When the morning broke, we had loft fight 
 of land, and the (hip had ftrained fo much, 
 that we had fix feet water in the hold, with 
 two pumps difabled ; nor did this gale mo- 
 derate till the 1 2th at noon, when the (hip 
 was wore, and we ftood in for the land, bail- \ 
 ing the water from the hold, which was 
 rather encreafing on us. The latitude was 
 49° 26' North. We therefore kept ftanding 
 in for the land till {even o'clock in the 
 evening, when that comfortable obje6l: was 
 again very clearly difcerned : but we had 
 another mortification to fufFer, for we found 
 that the late ftorm had blown us to leeward 
 of the Sound. We were therefore under the 
 provoking neceflity of tacking once more, 
 
 ^3 ' a»d 
 
I 'Bill >?: 
 
 f 
 
 l66 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. and landing out to fea, with the wind at 
 
 ^*^- North NorthWeft ; the Sound bearing North 
 
 Eaft, at the diftancc of feven leagues. 
 
 The night of the 1 2th was fo tempeftuous, 
 that we were obliged to lay to under the 
 reefed forefail, all the crew being employed 
 in bailing the water out of the hold; as it 
 • was not in our power to refit the pumps for 
 
 immediate fervice. 
 Tuefdayi3 Qn the morning of the 13th the wind 
 veered to the South by Eaft, blowing as hard 
 as ever, with heavy rain, when the (hip was 
 wore, and her head pointed in for the land. 
 About eight it moderated, when fail was 
 immediately made, and, by ten o'clock, we 
 happily anchored in Friendly Cove, in King 
 George's Sound, a-breaft: of the village of 
 Nootka, in four fathoms water, and within 
 an hundred yards of the fliore, after a paflage 
 of three months and twenty-three days from 
 China.— — The reader who has accompanied 
 us through our long, difficult, and haraffed 
 voyage, will eafily conceive the grateful joy 
 we experienced on our arrival in fafety at 
 the harbour which we had fought with fuch 
 continued toil, and through fuch various 
 
 dangers. 
 
 pw -4 
 
 It 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 It cannot be thought improper, ns I triirt: 
 it will not prove altogether ufelefs, to oflcr 
 fuch obfervations as occurred to me o\\ the 
 pafliige from China to the North Weft Coaft 
 of America. 
 
 It would not be prudent for (hips bound 
 to America, to purfue our route, if they are 
 not ready for fea by the middle of Novem - 
 her, or the loth of December at f.\rthefl. 
 The long and heavy delay we met will:, after 
 leaving Samboingan, is the beft proo( (fchc 
 difficulties we found in getting to inc Eall- 
 ward at this period of our voyage , when the 
 currents alfo run more rapid, ?.ud ?;hc ie:ifor\ 
 is more tempcftuous, as we h:./.? rcafon to 
 believe, than in the months of Novcii.ber 
 and December. - - 
 
 It had been our intention, at one t'fpe, to 
 perform this voyage by failing round New 
 Holland, and ftretching fufficiently re du- 
 Eaft, to fetch the Sandwich Iflands previous 
 to our making the coall: of America; or we 
 had the choice of pufhing through Endea- 
 vour Straits, and performing the (raat p:int ; 
 but this latter courle was rejected on account 
 jof the dangerous archipel?,gf'>< of iOands Icat- 
 tered to the Eaftward cf tiiofc (traits; and 
 
 1* 4 the 
 
 167 
 
 1788, 
 
 May. 
 
 
 -ll^iW-^ 
 
 r 
 
 !^*'S3i««*sa*. 
 
i68 
 
 1788. 
 
 May. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 the former was abandoned from the circuity 
 of its navigation, which would demand a 
 much longer time than we could fpare : it 
 was accordingly conjedured, flint ifapaf- 
 fage was attempted through the Sooloo Ar- 
 chipelago, then ilretching to the Eaftward, 
 to weather New Guinea, New Ireland, and 
 New Hanover, — and again tacking to the 
 Northward, to obtain the Wcfterly winds, 
 that we fhould have a quick and eafy paffage 
 opened to America. 
 
 The event proved that we had judged right- 
 ly in adopting the laft; — but, in my opinion, 
 a ftill eafier and much better pafl'age is now 
 opened to America; and it is fubmitted whe- 
 ther, in future, it would not be preferable 
 for ihipj bound there, to efFe£t their way 
 by the paffage between Luconia and For- 
 mofa. Tills opinion is not the fanciful re- 
 fult of vague conjefture, but has, as I con- 
 ceive, fomewhat of an experimental founda- 
 tion on the following circumftances : — 
 
 On our arrival with the Felice in China, 
 in the autumn of 1788, the agent of the 
 merchants in England, and the agent of 
 the merchants in India, formed an union 
 of interefts, and affociated themfelves under 
 
 a joint 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 [69 
 
 a joint flock, to carry on the fur trade of 1788. 
 America. They accordingly equipped a (hip May. 
 called the Argonaut, under the diredlion of 
 Mr. Colnet, a lieutenant in his Majefty's 
 navy, and who had commanded in the years 
 1787 and 1788, the (hip Prince of Wales of 
 London, belonging to the merchants trading 
 to America. This (hip had performed her 
 voyage to the coaft, and returned to China 
 with a valuable cargo of furs in 1788, and 
 from thence to England, laden with teas on 
 account of the Eaft India Company. Mr. 
 Colnet quitted the Prince of Wales in 
 China, to command the Argonaut, and take 
 charge of the afTociated merchants pro- 
 perty on the coaft of America. Of his nau- 
 tical abilities I (hall only obferve, that they t 
 are fuch as to receive no addition to their 
 reputation from any teftimony of mine : 
 he accordingly prepared the Argonaut for 
 fea, and the Princefs Royal of London, a 
 veflTel belonging to the fame commercial fo- 
 ciety. 
 
 The(e .(hips were not ready for fea till 
 the 1 7th- of April, 1789; when, on com- 
 paring the tracks of the Felice and the Iphi- 
 genia, and the time they met theMonfoon 
 
 or 
 
 , ■ 
 
 -•••»* 
 
170 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 U' 
 
 ■;<! . 
 
 I f ' 
 
 1788. or Wefterly winds in the Northern Pacific 
 M4V. Ocean, it was thought that the pafTage to 
 America might be efFeded between Lu- 
 conia and Formofa, with greater eafe and 
 expedition than by purfuing the track by 
 Magindanao. 
 
 The Princefs Royal therefore failed in 
 February, and did not reach the coaft of 
 America in lefs than lixteen weeks : but 
 the tardinefs of her voyage arofe from her 
 being a very heavy failer, and not copper- 
 bottomed. — Whereas the Argonaut, who 
 was both (heathed with copper and a prime 
 failer, left China the 26th of April, 1789, 
 and arrived in King George's Sound the 3d 
 of July following ; which was a paflage that 
 exceeded our moft fanguine expectations. 
 
 The future navigator from China to Ame- 
 rica, is here prefented with four different 
 tracks of that voyage. But if it Ihould be 
 my lot to be again engaged in it, I (hould 
 leave China early in the month of March, 
 and endeavour to make a paflage between 
 • Luconia and Formofa, in order to gain the 
 Pacific Ocean, where, at that feafon, variable 
 winds might be expe<Sted to the Northward 
 of 20°; and when the violence of the North 
 
 Eafl 
 
 k:i<>-.iiJ* ;'J«V>— ^'^ - 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 ^71 
 
 i\ 
 
 Eaft Monfoon would alfo be much abated in 1788^ 
 the China feas. Indeed, in the month of May. 
 April, there would be almoft a certainty of 
 meeting the South Weft Mcnfoon or Wef- 
 terly winds in the latitud? of 25° or 30' 
 North, which prevail there, and blew us 
 home to the American fhore. 
 
 On leaving Canton, great care ihould be 
 taken to work fome diftance up the coaft of 
 China, between the Lema Ifles, and as high 
 as Pedro Blanco, or the White Rock, before 
 the China fea is crofled for Formofa : but no .' '. 
 paflage, I think, fhould be attempted be- 
 tween the rocks of Ville Rete and the South 
 end of Formofa, except during the day, in 
 clear weather, and with the appearance of 
 a free channel. ^ 
 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 .^ifr>-''r^»»-'r- 
 
17* 
 1788. 
 
 May. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 
 (■3 
 
 r^i- 
 
 r 
 
 75^^ commoJious Situation of Friendly Cove^ in 
 
 King Georgt*s Sound. - Great lumbers of 
 
 the Natives ajfemble to view the Sbtp,— l'he 
 
 Joy of Comehela on his Arrival^ &c — Han- 
 
 , napa, a Chief comes on board. — Comehla 
 
 , prepares to go on Shor,.-~His Drefs, tic. — 
 
 ; Employments of the Crew. — ^he jirrival of 
 
 Maquillaj Chief of King George's Sound, 
 
 with Callicum, a Perfon the next in Rank to 
 
 him. — j^ DefcrJption of their Drejfes, and 
 
 the Ceremonies they pradiifed on feeing the 
 
 Ship* — Leave obtained to build an Houfe 
 
 and FeJfeL — Callicum attaches hinfelfto the 
 
 Ship and is appointed Protestor of the Party 
 
 on Shore, by Maquilla.'^An H^jufe built. — 
 
 Keel of a Fejfel laid. — Some Account cf the 
 
 Murder cf Callicum by the Spaniards, in the 
 
 following Year. 
 
 TH E (hip bad been moored but a very 
 (bort time, when it began to blow a 
 tempeftuous gale of wind, with very heavy 
 rain ; the commodious fituation, therefore, 
 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 of Friendly Cove, made us truly fenfible 
 of our good fortune, in being thus fecurely 
 placed in a prbtedling haven, where neither 
 Aorm or tempeft could alarm our fears or 
 trouble our rcpofe. 
 
 Our earlieft attention was invited to a 
 multitude of the natives, affembled on the 
 banks in front of the village, in order to 
 take a view of the (hip. Comekela, who 
 feveral days had been in a ftate of the moft 
 anxious impatience, now enjoyed the inex- 
 preffible delight of once more beholding his 
 native land, to which he returned with the 
 'confcious pride of knowledge acquired by 
 his voyage, and in the poffeffion of thofe ar- 
 ticles of utility or decoration, which would 
 create the wonder, and encreafe the refpeft 
 of his nation. His joy, however, received 
 no inconiiderable interruption from the ab- 
 fence of his brother Maquilla, the chief 
 of King George*s Sound, and his relation 
 Callicum, who flood next in rank to the 
 fovereign. Thefe chiefs were, at this time, 
 on a vifit of ceremony to Wicananifli, a 
 powerful prince of a tribe to the Southward. 
 Of this circumftance we were informed by 
 Hannapa, who in the abfence of the two 
 
 , fuperior 
 
 173 
 
 1788. 
 
 May. 
 
 I \ 
 
 •lUlH ■ iMff" -^ 
 
 ^jj^MWW.*!^^ 
 
«74 
 
 V OY AGES TO THE 
 
 f,' 
 
 H'- 
 
 W/ 
 
 1788. fuperior chiefs was left in power at Nootka, 
 May, and who was come on board to pay us a 
 vifit. 
 
 At this time Comekela was dreffed in a 
 fcarlet regimental coat, decorated with brafs 
 buttons, — a military hat fet off with a flaunt- 
 ing cockade, decent linens, and other ap- 
 pendages of European drefs, which was far 
 * , more than fufficient to excite the extreme 
 , admiration of his countrymen. Nor was 
 Hannapa infenlible to the appearance of 
 * ■ Comekela; for he regarded him not only 
 with the moll prying attention, but alfo 
 with ftriking expreflions of that envy which 
 is a very prevalent paflion among the na- 
 tives of this part of America. 
 
 In a (hort time the (hip was furrounded 
 with a great number of canoes, which were 
 filled with men, women and children ; they 
 ' brought alfo confiderable fupplies of fifh, 
 
 and we did not hefitate a moment to pur* 
 chafe an article fo very acceptable to people 
 juft arrived from a long and toilfome voyage* 
 In the evening the weather cleared up, and 
 Comekela prepared to go on fhore. The 
 news of his intention was foon communi- 
 cated to the village, which immediately 
 
 poured 
 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 ^75 
 
 poured forth all its inhabitants to welcome 1788. 
 him to his native home. May. 
 
 Comekela had now arrayed himfelf in all 
 his glory. His fcarlet coat was decorated 
 with fuch quantities of brafs buttons and 
 copper additions of one kind or other, as 
 could not fail of procuring him the moft 
 profound refpe<3: from his countrymen, and 
 render him an obje£l of the firft delire among 
 the Nootka damfels. At leaft half a fheet 
 of copper formed his breaft-plate ; from his 
 ears copper ornaments were fufpended, and 
 he contrived to hang from his hair, which 
 was drefled en queue, fo many handles of cop- 
 per faucepans, that his head was kept back 
 by the weight of them, in fuch a ftifFand 
 upright pofition, as very much to heighten 
 the (ingularity of his appearance. For va- 
 rious articles of his prefent pride Comekela 
 had been in a ftate of continual hoftility 
 with the cook, from whom he had con- 
 trived to purloin them ; but their laft and 
 principal ftruggle was for an enormous fpit, 
 which the American had feized as a fpear, to 
 fwell the circumftance of that magnificence 
 with which he was on the moment of 
 dazzling the eyes of his countrymen ; — and 
 
 fituated 
 
 ' 
 
 . J 
 
176 
 
 n 
 
 1788. 
 
 May. 
 
 Pi 
 
 M 
 
 Wi 
 
 ^}^ 
 
 e^'^l 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 fituated as we were, this important article of 
 culinary fervice could not be denied him. In 
 fuch a (late of accoutrement, and feeling as 
 much delight as ever fed the pride of the 
 mofl fplendid thrones of Europe or the Bad, 
 we fet out with him for the (hore, when a 
 general fhout and cry from the village af- 
 fured him of the univerfal joy which was 
 felt on his return. 
 
 The whole body of inhabitants moved 
 towards the beach, and with a mod: unplea- 
 fant howl, welcomed him on (hore. At the 
 head of them appeared his aunt, an old 
 woman of about eighty years of age, and, 
 from her appearance, might have been fup- 
 pofed to have lived in a continual flate of 
 filth and dirtinefs from her birth to the mo- 
 ment in which we beheld fuch a difgufling 
 obje£t. She embraced her nephew with 
 great afFeftion, and fhed the fcalding rheum 
 of her eyes on the cheek of Comekela. 
 
 After the firft ceremonies of welcome were 
 over, and the firft gaze of admiration fatis- 
 fied, the whole company proceeded to the 
 king's houfe, into which perfons of rank 
 were alone permitted to enter, and where a 
 magnificent feaft of whale blubber and oil 
 
 5 was 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 was prepared : the whole company fat down 
 with an appetite well fuited to the luxuries 
 of the banquet: even the little children 
 drank the oil with all the appearance of 
 extreme gratification ; but Comekela*s taftc 
 feemed to have been in fome degree vitiated 
 by the Indian and European cookery, and 
 he did not enjoy his native delicacies with 
 the fame voracious gluttony as if his ftomach 
 had never known the variety of other food 
 than that of Nootka. The evening was paf- 
 fed in great rejoicing ; their fongs and 
 dancing continued during the greateft part 
 of the night. We returned on board early 
 in the evening; but we heard for a long 
 time after the found of their ftftivity. 
 
 Nootka is lituated on a rifing bank, which 
 fronts the fea, and is backed and Ikirted 
 with woods*. In Fricndlv Cove the houfes 
 are large, and in the common fafhion of the 
 country. Each of thefe manfions accom- 
 modates feveral families, and is divided into 
 partitions, in the manner of an Englifh 
 
 *7? 
 
 i 
 
 1788. 
 
 Mav. 
 
 •V 
 
 , I 
 
 * A particular account of the village or town of 
 Nootka, is referved for that part of this volume which 
 will treat at large of the commerce, geography, &c. of 
 the North Weft Coaft of An Ciica. 
 
 Vol.1. : M /' flable, 
 
 «!'^^wi»r^ 
 
[(I 
 
 t'i 
 
 v 
 
 J -3 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. ftabic, in which all kinds of dirt, mixed 
 May. witli blubber, oil and fifh, are difcovered by 
 more fenfes than, one, to form a mafs of 
 undcfirable filthinefs. 
 Wednefdayi4 On thc 14th, the Weather was fuffici- 
 ently fair to admit of our difpatching a 
 party on jfhore to ere£l a tent for the wooders 
 • and watercrs, as well as one for the fail- 
 
 makers. For thispurpofe a fpot WAS chofen 
 at a fmall diftance from the village, and 
 contiguous to a rivulet. The reft of the 
 crew were employed in unreefing the run- 
 ning rigging, unbending the fails, and the 
 other neceflary duties of the {hip. 
 Friday 16 Qi^ ^]^q 1 6th, a number of war canoes en- " 
 tered the cove, with Maquilla and Callicum ; 
 they moved with great parade round the 
 fhip, finging at the fame time a fong of a 
 pleafing though fonorous melody :— there 
 Were twelve of thefe canoes, each of which 
 contained about eighteen men, the greater 
 part of whom were cloathed in drefles of 
 the moft beautiful Ikins of the lea otter, 
 wliich covered them from their necks to their 
 . ancles. Thdr iiair was powdered with the 
 white down of birds, and their faces be- 
 daubed with red and black ochre, in the 
 : ' form 
 
 , I 
 
rt, mixed 
 overed by 
 a mafs of 
 
 as fuffici- 
 (atching a 
 be wooders 
 r the fail- 
 ivas chofen 
 ilhge, and 
 reft of the 
 ig the run- 
 Is, and the 
 
 r canoes en- 
 . CaUicum ; 
 round the 
 fong of a 
 dy -.—there 
 h of which 
 he greater 
 drefles of 
 fea otter, 
 cks to their 
 id with the 
 faces be- 
 ^re, in the 
 form 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 form of a (hark's jaw, and a kind of fpiral 
 line, which rendered their appearance ex- 
 tremely favage. In moft of thcfe bouts there 
 were eight rowers on a ilde, and a fiiiglc 
 man fat in the bow. The chief occupied a 
 place in the middle, and was alfo diflln- 
 guifhed by an high cap, pointed at t!ie crown, 
 and ornamented at top with a fmall tuft of 
 feathers. " ' ' 
 
 We liftened to their fong with an equal 
 degree of furprife and pleafure. It was, in- 
 deed, impolTible for any ear fiifceptible of 
 delight from mufical founds, or any mind 
 that was not infcnfible to the power of 
 melody, to remain unmoved by this fol jmn, 
 unexpe^led concert. The chorus was in uni- 
 fon, and ftridly corrctfl as to time and tone ; 
 nor did a diflbnant note efcape them. — 
 Sometimes they would make a fudden tran- 
 {ition from the high to the low tones, with 
 fuch melancholy turns in their variations, 
 that we could not reconcile to ourfclves the 
 manner in which they acquired or contrived 
 this more than untaught melody of nature. 
 — There was alfo fomething for the eye as 
 well as the ear ; and the action which ac- 
 companied their voices, added very much to 
 
 M 2 the 
 
 ^79 
 
 1788. 
 
 May. 
 
 I 
 
 \y 
 
 ■ -^^?i 
 
i8o 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 
 I- 1 1? , ' 
 
 Ml 
 
 1788. the imprefTion which the chaunthig m:ide 
 May. upon us all. Every one beat time with un- 
 deviating regularity, againft the gunwale of 
 the boat, with their paddles ; and at the end 
 of every verfe or (lanza, tlicy pointed with 
 extended arms to the North and the South, 
 gradually finking their voices in fuch a fo- 
 lemn manner, as to produce an cfFedt not 
 often attained by the orcheftras in our quar- 
 ts r of the globe. 
 
 They paddled round our (hip twice in 
 this manner, uniformly rifing up when they 
 came to the ftern, and calling out the word 
 loacujl}^ wacujh, or friends. They then 
 brought their canoes along-fide, when Ma- 
 quilla and Callicum came on board. The 
 former appeared to be about thirty years, of 
 a middle fize, but extremely well made, and 
 poflclling a countenance that was formed to 
 intereft all who liiw him. The latter feemed 
 to be ten years older, of an athletic make, 
 and a fine open arrangement of features, that 
 united regard and confidence. The inferior 
 people were proper and very perfonable men. 
 A feal-lkin filled with oil was immediately 
 handed on board, of which the chiefs took 
 a fmall quantity, and then ordered it to be 
 
 I returned 
 
 0* ' U£s ?*'**'***^^''^**^yfii 
 
 ■ ■f tWii* " *'' "** ' "y « 'SWn tl>aHan 
 
 " * -- r^-^-'-ii i i"" T 
 
 ■,..Ki .a • 
 
*t 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA* 
 
 81 
 
 1 1 
 
 returned to the people in the canoes, who 1788. 
 foon emptied the vcflel of this luxurious ^^^^' 
 liquor. - , 
 
 A prefent, confiding of copper, iron, and 
 other gratifying a»-ticles, was made to Ma- 
 quilla and Callicum, who, on receiving it, 
 took off their fea-otter garments, threw 
 them, in the mofl: graceful manner, at 
 our feet, and remained in the unattired garb 
 of nature on the deck. — They were each 
 of them in return prefented with a blanket, 
 when, with every mark of the higheft latis- 
 fa<5lion, they defcended into their canoes, 
 which were paddled haftily to the fhore. 
 
 The manner in which thefe people give 
 and receive prefents is, we believe, pecu- 
 liar to themfclvcs. However coftly the gift ': 
 may be in their own eyes, tht^y wifli to take 
 away all idea of conferring any obligation 
 on the receiver of it. We have feen two 
 chiefs meet on a vlfit of ceremony provided 
 with prefents of the richeft furs, which they 
 flung before each other with an air that , 
 marked the moft generous friendfliip, and 
 rivalled that amiable interchange of kiudnefs 
 which diftinguifhes the more poliflied na- 
 tions of the world. 
 
 ( M ^ - . From 
 
m 
 
 183 
 
 1788. 
 
 May. 
 Saturday 35 
 
 '(■: 
 
 ■ ,.. • VOYAGES TOTHE 
 
 From the time of our arrival at Nootka 
 to the 25th, we had much bad weather; but 
 that circumftaiice, however unpleafant/did 
 not prevent us from engaging in the different 
 operations we had in view. Maquilla had 
 not only mofl readily confented to grant us 
 a jpot of ground in his territory, whereon 
 an houfe might be built for the accommo- 
 dation of the people we intended to leave 
 there, but had promifed usalfo his affiftance 
 in forwarding our works, and his protcdion 
 of the party who were deftined to remain 
 at Nootka during our abfence. In return 
 for this kindnefs, and to enfure a conti- 
 nuance of it, the chief was prefented with a 
 pair of piflols, which he had regarded with 
 an eye of folicitation ever fiiice our arrival. 
 Callicum, who fecmed to have formed a 
 moft affcdionatc attachment to us, was alfo 
 gratified, as well as the ladies of his family, 
 with fu'.tablc prefents: it indeed became our 
 more immediate attention to confirm his re- 
 gard, as he had been appointed by Maquilla 
 tu be our particular gu.ndian and protuflor, 
 and had the moft peremptory injunctions to 
 prevent the natives from making any de- 
 predations on us. 
 
 But 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 183 
 
 1788, 
 
 Ma V, 
 
 But however difpofed we might be to 
 rely on the friendlhip of thefe chi jts, we 
 thought it prudent, during the negotiation 
 between us, to inform them of cur power, 
 by explaining the force we pofl'eflld, and 
 the mode of applying it, in cafe they (hould 
 at any time change their prefent difpofitions 
 towards us. We wifljed to operate on their 
 fears as well as their gratitude, in order to 
 fecure, with greater certainty, the objufl of 
 our voyage. 
 
 Great advances were made in buildingWednefdaj»8 
 the houfe, which on the iSth wasco*nplctely 
 finilhed. In the very expeditious accomplifli- 
 ment of this importaiU work, the natives 
 afforded us all the afliflance in their power, 
 not only by bringing the timber from the [ 
 woods, but by readily engaging in any and 
 every fervice that was required of them. 
 When the bell rung for our people to leave 
 off work in the evening, the ivitivc labourers 
 were always aifembled to receive their daily 
 jpay, which was diftribnted in certain pro- 
 portions of beads or iron. Such a proceeding 
 on our part, won fo much upon their regard 
 and confidence, that we could not find em- 
 
 M 4 . ployment 
 
 
 f 1 
 
 ^ ■-^' .W'WH^w* 
 
1 84 
 
 .^? 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 ^tl 
 
 uf 
 
 M.A 
 
 1788. p^oyment for the numbers that continually 
 May, fbiicited to engage in our fcrvice. . ., ,,4 
 The houfe was fufficiently fpacious to 
 conti^iti all the party intended to be left in 
 the Sound. — On the ground-lloor there w?is 
 ample room for the coopers, fail-makers, and 
 other artisans to work in bad weather : a 
 large room was alfo fet apart for the ftores 
 and provifions, and the armourer's fhop was 
 attached to one end of the building and coni- 
 inunicated with it. The upper-ftoiy wag 
 divided luro an eating-room and chambers 
 for the party. Oii the whole, our houfe, 
 though it was not built to latlsfy a lover of 
 architeclural beauty, was admirably well cal-: 
 culated for the purpofe to which it was 
 deftined, and appeared to be a ilruifVure of 
 uncommon magnificence to the natives of 
 King George's Sound, 
 
 A Urong breaft-work was thrown up 
 round the houfe, enclofing a confiderable 
 area of ground, which, with one piece of 
 cannon, placed in fuch a mannpr as to coiji- 
 mand the cove and village of Nootka, for- 
 med a fortification fuflicient to fecure the 
 party from any Intrufion. Without this 
 Jjreafl-work, was laid the keel of a veflel of 
 
 40 
 
 
y 
 
 *-i 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA.^ yZ% 
 
 4.0 or 50 tons, which was now to be built 1788. 
 agreeable to our former determinations. J^^e. 
 
 By the 5th of June, our operations were Thurfday^ 
 confiderably advanced ; the (hips had been 
 caulked, the rigging repaired, and the fails 
 were overhauled ; — ftone ballaft had been 
 received on board, as we found the danger of 
 fand ballaft, on account of its choaking the 
 pumps, and the (hip was wooded, watered, 
 and got ready forfea. All this various and 
 necelfary bufinefs was done, though the wea- 
 ther had been very indifferent from the time 
 of our arrival, having had almoft continual 
 heavy rains, with foutherly winds. Thefe 
 rains had entirely wa(heQ t!ie fnow from 
 off the ground, and except on the fummlts 
 of the mountains and the higher hills, fmall 
 patches of it only were now to be feen ; but 
 vegf tation was ftill very backward, and 
 changed but by a very gentle gradation the 
 dreary appearance of the country on our 
 arrival. 
 
 The party deftined to remain on (hore 
 were bufily employed in their various occu- 
 pations : fome were engaged in bringing 
 the timber from the woods at a great dif- 
 fance, and through a thick foreft of very 
 
 difficult 
 
 V 
 
 V 
 
 ■ \ 
 
 ' ! 
 
 1 
 
tU 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 
 1788. difficult paflage ; others in fawingand fha- 
 juNE. ping it for the feveral purpofes to which it 
 was to be applied, while the armourers were 
 bufy in making bolts, nails, &c. ready for 
 ufe, or forging iron hito the necefliiry arti- 
 cles of trade ; fo that, by proceeding on ft 
 lyftem of order and regularity, we had, in 
 a very little time, formed our new dock- 
 yard, in which the carpenters had already 
 laid the keel, and railed, bolted and fixed 
 the flern and ftern- port ; fo that expedtation 
 had but a little while to look forward, till 
 it would be gratified in feeing this veflll fit 
 for the fervice to which it was deftined. 
 If hlflories of navlj^ation were Written 
 
 o 
 
 merely to amufc the leifure hours of the 
 rich, or to fitlsfy the eager enquiries of 
 the philofopiier, much of the minute parts 
 of fuch a' work as th's would be necefiarily 
 omitted, as unentcrtaining to the one, or 
 beneath the notice of the other ; but nar- 
 ratives of voyages are applicable to other 
 purpofcs; and, if they fliould not prove in- 
 ftru^live to future navigators — If they (hould 
 not tend to aid and facilitate the progrefs of 
 commercial enterprlze, the difficulties and 
 dangers of fuch voyages mufl have been 
 
 en- 
 
• NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 encountered in vain, and the time employed 
 in writing an account of them be added to 
 the wafte of life. . 
 
 The good harmony and friendly inter- 
 courfe which fubfifted bstwcen us and the 
 natives, will, we truft, be confidered as a 
 proof that our condu^fl was regulated by 
 the principles of humane policy ; while the 
 generous and hofpitable demeanour of our 
 faithful allies will convey a favourable idea 
 of iheir character, when treated with that 
 kindnefs which unenlightened nature de- 
 mands, and is the true object of commer- 
 cial policy to employ. 
 
 The various offices of perfonal attach- 
 ment which we received from many indivi- 
 duals of thefe people, were fufficient to 
 convince us that gratitude is a virtue well 
 known on this diftant (here, — and that a 
 noble fenfibility to offices of kindnefs was 
 to be found among the woods of Nootka. 
 Callicum poflblTed a delicacy of mind and 
 conduct which would have tlone honour to 
 the moft improved ftate of our civilization ; 
 a thouiand inftances of regard and affedlion 
 towards us miglit be related of this amiable 
 man, who is now no more; and the only 
 ' . ^ return 
 
 187 
 
 1788. 
 
 June. 
 
 \' \ 
 
 f ■ 
 
 f: 
 
 ii 
 
 . ♦ 
 
 ,■) 'J 
 
 .^i 
 
»! 
 
 ) 
 
 i 
 
 i83 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. return that we can make for his friendfliip 
 JuNi. is to record it, with every exprdlion of hor- 
 ror and deteftation of that inhuman and 
 wanton fpirit of murder, which deprived his 
 country of its brighteft ornament, the fu- 
 ture navigator of a prote6ling friend,— and 
 drove an unoffending and ufeful people from 
 their native home, to find a new habitation 
 in the diflant defart*. . 
 
 
 (v 
 
 • This amiable chief was fliot through the body 
 in the monih of June, 1789, by an officer on board one 
 of the (hips of Don Jofcph Stephen Martinez. The 
 following particulars we received from the mafter of the 
 North Weft America, a young gentleman of the moft: 
 correct veracity, who was huiiielf a mournful witnefs 
 of the inhuman aft : — 
 
 Callicum, his wife and child, came in a fmall canoe, 
 with a prefent of fi(h, along-fide the PrinccfTa, the com- 
 modore's fhip ; and, the filh being taken from him 
 in a rough and unwelcome manner, before he could 
 prefent it to the commander, the chief was fo incenfed 
 at this behaviour, that he immediately left the Ibip, ex- 
 claiming as he departed, pe/hae, fe/hac f the meaning of 
 which is, bad, bad 1 — This conduft was confidered as 
 fo ofFcnfive, that he was immediately Ihot from the 
 quaiter-deck, by a ball, through the heart. The body 
 on receiving the ball, fprung over the lide of the canoe 
 and immediately funk. The wife was taken with her 
 child, in a ftate of ftupefa£tion to the Ihov^: by fome of 
 her friends, who were witneflcs of this inhuman ca- 
 
 taftrophe. 
 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 taftrophc. Shortly after, however, the father of Cal- 
 licum ventured on board the Spanilh Ihip, to beg per- 
 luifuoii to creep for the body beneath the water, when 
 this fad requeft of parental forrow was refufed, till the 
 poor afHidcd favage had coilcfted a fufficient number 
 oflkins among his neighbours to purchafc, of chrif- 
 tians, the privilege of giving fepulture to a fon whom 
 they had murdered. The body was foon found, and 
 followed to its place of interment by the lamenting 
 widow, attended by all the inhabitants of the Sound, 
 who expreffed the keeneft forrows for a chief whom 
 they loved, and to whofe virtues it becomes our duty to 
 give the grateful teftimony of merited affection. 
 
 189 
 
 1788. 
 June. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 ^»N. 
 
1788. 
 
 June. 
 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 CHAP. X, 
 
 i 
 
 =1 
 
 ii- t(ij 
 
 i^i 
 
 
 I 
 
 Methods employed by the Natives to advance 
 the Price of Sea Otters Skins. — Their Supe- 
 riority in arranging their Bargains between 
 us. — Condudl oj Comekela, — Made a Chief 
 through our Influence. ^-His Marriage. — The. 
 Magnificence of the Entertaimnent on the Oc- 
 cafion. — Maquilla and his Chief affedt our 
 Drefs and Manners. — Valuable Prcfent of 
 Maquilla. — AGrindJlone folen. — j^n human 
 Hand offered for Sale. — Narrow Efcape oj 
 the Natives on the Occafion. — Mc Line holy Lofs 
 of Part of the Crew of the Imperial Eagle ^ in 
 1787. — St fpicion that Maquilla is a Canni- 
 bal. — Extraordinary Pillow of Callicum. — 
 The Inhabitants of Friendly Cove remove to 
 a fmall Difiancc. — The Reafons and Facility 
 of their Removal. — A young Otter brought 
 for Sale, 
 
 T N the Interval between our arrival and the 
 fifth of June, a very briik trade had been 
 carried on for furs, and we had procured 
 tipwards of one hundred and forty fea otter 
 jfkuis. On our firft arrival we had ftipulated 
 
 a cer- 
 
 
■■\ 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 a certain price for every difterent kind of 
 fur, according to its value ; but in the whole 
 bufiaefs of this trafHc they availed themfelves 
 of every advantage ; and it was our inte- 
 reft, from the views of future benefit, to 
 fubmit to any deviation they attempted to 
 make from their original agreement. 
 
 After fome little time they changed the 
 whole order of their traffic with us ; and 
 inftead of common barter, according to the 
 diftln£t value of the articles exchanged, the 
 whole of our mercantile dealings was. car- 
 ried on by making reciprocal pre fen ts ; the 
 ceremony of which was accompanied with 
 the utmoft difplay of T^Sit pride and hofpi- 
 tality.— The particulars of thefe cuftoms are 
 related at large in that part of the work 
 which is more particularly affigned to com- 
 mercial information. 
 
 Whenever Maquilla or Callicum tliought 
 proper to make us a prefent, one of their 
 perfonal attendants was fent to requeft the 
 company of the I'/ghee, or Captain, on fliore, 
 who always accepted the invitation, charged 
 with fuch articles as were intended to be 
 prefented in return. On our arrival at the 
 habitation of the chiefs, where a great num- 
 ber 
 
 1788. 
 
 June. 
 
 } 
 
 ;, ',1 
 
192 
 
 1 
 
 
 f;/.i 
 
 * 
 
 1788. 
 
 June. 
 
 VOYAGES TO T HE 
 
 ber of fpedlators attended to fee the cere- 
 mony, the fea otter (kins were produced 
 with great ihoutings and geftures of exul- 
 tation, and then laid at our feet. The filence 
 of expectation then fucceeded among them, 
 and their mod eager attention was employed 
 on the returns we (hould make ; nor can it 
 be fuppofed, that, confidering our credit as 
 Britilh merchants, we were deficient in af- 
 fording the expelled fatisfa(flion: — hefides, 
 it had been artfully enough hinted by our 
 Nootka friends, that as foon as their prefent 
 ftock of (kins was exhaufted, they (hould 
 go upon an expedition to procure more ; and 
 this was one clrcum(tance, among others, 
 which naturally tended to quicken the fpirit 
 of commerce between us. 
 
 Since the firft difcovery of this Sound by 
 Captain Cook, feveral (hips had arrived there 
 for the purpofe of trading with the natives, 
 who had acquired a greater degree of civili- 
 zation from fuch a communication than we 
 expedled to have found amongft them; — but 
 it was a matter of fome furprize to us, that 
 they appeared, at leaft to our obfervaiion, 
 totally deftitute of European articles : for, 
 of all the iron, copper, beads, &c. which 
 
 they 
 
1 1 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 193 
 
 they muft have received in return for their 1788. 
 furs, not a particle of them was now to be June. 
 {een ; — nor is it eafy to conje<Slure in what 
 manner they had contrived, in fo fhort a 
 time, to diiiipate their treafures. 
 
 The fiLklenefs that they at times difcovered 
 in their traffic, was occaiionally very trouble- 
 fome. At one time copper was their fa- 
 vourite obje(5l ; at another, iron was the only 
 commodity in eftimation among them ; beads 
 would alfo have their turn of preference. 
 But this helitation in their choice was gene- 
 rally determined by a medley of them all. 
 
 Comekela was, at firft, very adivc hi for- 
 warding our commercial arrangement ; but 
 he had become very deficient in his native 
 tongue, and he now fpoke fuch a jargon of 
 the Chinefe, Englifh, and Nootkan lan- 
 guages, as to be by no means a ready in- 
 terpreter between us and the natives ; — be- 
 fides, in returning to the manners of his 
 country, he began to prefer the interefts of 
 his countrymen, and, amidft the renewed 
 luxuries of whale flelh, blubber and oil, to 
 forget the very great kindnefles we had be- 
 ftowed upon him. — But as he had, through 
 our influence, been raifed into a fituation of 
 
 Vol. I. N truft 
 
 1 
 

 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-S) 
 
 /> 
 
 
 1.0 ^^ lii 
 
 pL L"" "sa 
 
 Kim 
 
 ■ 
 
 1.6 
 
 RioiDgFaphic 
 .Sciences 
 Carporalion 
 
 23 WBT MAIN STRUT 
 
 WiBSTiR,N.Y. MSM 
 
 (716) •72-4503 
 
 m 
 
 's>- 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^^- 
 
 -^.\ ^< 
 

i 
 
 
 194 
 
 1788. 
 June. 
 
 
 VOYAGES TO Tttfi 
 
 truH: and honour, it was not our intereft to 
 unfold our fufpicions of his duplicity and 
 ingratitude towards us. Maquilla had com- 
 mitted to iiim the care of his moft valuable 
 treafures, among which was a brafs mortar, 
 left by Captain Cook, which was held in 
 the higheft degree of cflimation by the Noot- 
 ka Chief. This piece of culinary furniture 
 Was elevated from a flate of fervile ufe, to 
 become a fymbol of royal magnificence. It 
 was kept extremely bright, and, in vifits, 
 or meetings of ceremony, it was borne be- 
 fore Maqulllii, to aid the fplendor of the re- 
 gal charadcr. — It was therefore an objedt 
 rather to recall his former difpofitions to- 
 wards us, by the continuance of our friend- 
 Ihip, than tojuftify his deviation from that 
 regard which it was his duty to manifefl: in 
 our favour. We tlierefore exerted our in- 
 fluence with his brother Maquilla, to elevate 
 him at once to the character of chief, by 
 marrying hhn to a woman of rank in his 
 own dlfl:ri(5t. This f.ivour was immediately 
 granted to our folicltatlon, and we were in- 
 vited to the nuptials, which were folemnized 
 with all poliible mn(:jnlflcence. — Half a 
 whale, a large quantity of other fifh, with 
 
 an 
 
 •»»'■'■■-■* •^■.■»M»W. 
 
■^ 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 ^9S 
 
 an adequate proportion of oil, formd the i*-83. 
 fumptuous part of this entertain iiient, which Jlnb. 
 was ferved with a furprizing degree of regu- 
 larity to nar three hundred people, who 
 conduifted themfelves with great order, and 
 expreffed extreme fatisfa£lion at the fplendor 
 and hofpitality of their chief. 
 
 On the 6th, a meiTenger came on board Friday « 
 from Maquilla, with the information that he 
 was preparing to make us a very fuperb prc- 
 fent, and to defire our attendance on fliore, 
 in order to receive it. — We immediately 
 waited on the chief, and found him d re fled 
 in an European fuit of cloaths, with a ruffled 
 fhirt, and his hair queued and powdered : — 
 thefe decorations of his perfon were part of 
 thofe prefents which Coniekela had received 
 from us, and were, with all their weight of 
 copper ornaments, confidered as a proud dl- 
 ftindion of Nootka royalty. The king was 
 furrounded with feveral chiefs, who were 
 all adorned with fome particular article of 
 Englifli drefs, which appeared to allbrd an 
 uncommon gratification to their vanity ; and, 
 on this occafion, they had clean fed their faces 
 from all the oil and ochre with which they 
 were uliially bedaubed. — Indeed, the mcta- 
 
 N 2 . morphofis 
 
1^6 
 
 VOVAGES TO THE 
 
 
 1788. morphofis was of fuch a nature, as, on our 
 June, firft entering the houfc, to puzzle us a little 
 in the recognition of our friends. This cir- 
 cumftance afforded them coniiderable enter- 
 tainment, which was followed by their rifing 
 up and imitating our mode of falutation. The 
 mannerof taking off their hats, the curious 
 gefturcs they fell into, in fcraping and bow- 
 ing to each other, with a few Englilh words 
 which they had acquired, and now repeated 
 aloud, without conne<Stion or underftanding, 
 compofed a fccne with which they were 
 delighted, and we could not be difpleafed. 
 When thefe efood-hunioured ceremonies were 
 over, the chief ordered feveral very fine fea 
 otter (kins to be produced before us, and af- 
 terwards f.nt on board the (hip ; to which 
 he added a very fine deer, that had been juft 
 killed in the woods by one of his people. 
 We were not backward in making a fuitablc 
 prefent to Maquilla ; and, on our return to 
 the Ihip, wc found that the otter-lkins iiad 
 preceded us. 
 
 The arrival of Comekela had infpired 
 thele people witli a decided preference for 
 the articles of European drefs ; — an hat, 
 a flioe, or a (locking, would generally turn 
 
 the 
 
 ^ '■ '■ ^-»m 
 
as, on our 
 
 1788. 
 
 Ju.sr. 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 tlie balance of commercial negotiation in our 
 favour : — nor did we negle£l any motives 
 in our power to encourage a fancy which 
 might promote the ufc of woollens amiongft 
 them. 
 
 On the 7th, a complaint was made by the Saturday: 
 cooper that hisgrindftone had been ftolen by 
 the natives. — This was the firfl ad: of de- 
 predation that we had fufFered ; — indeed the 
 different (hips that had vifited the Sound 
 before us are fa.ld to have endured a fimilar 
 lofs. We had obferved that the attention of 
 the people had been principally dire(5ted to 
 this ftone, being convinced that it contamed 
 fome peculiar charm, by which it commu- 
 nicated, with fuch little trouble, fo (harp an 
 edge to our iron ; an operation which they 
 found a matter of no common difficulty. 
 
 The lofs of this article was of fome im- 
 portance ; and every means was exerted to 
 recover if, but in vain ; — even our applica- 
 tion to Maquilla was not, attended with the 
 ufual fuccefs. — It was, however, thought 
 more prudent to connive at the theft, than 
 engage in a difpute with the people; — we 
 therefore contented ourfelves with iflTuing 
 ftrict orders that none of the natives, except 
 
 N 3 the 
 
 197 
 
 \ 
 
VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. the chiefs, fliould, in future, be admitted 
 Jt'NE. within the breaft-work that lurrounded the 
 houfc. 
 Sunday 8 Qi^ fhc 8th, a ftrangc canoe with feveral 
 
 people in it entered the cove, and coming 
 alongfide rlie (hip, fold us a fmall number of 
 fca otter (kins : — they alfo offered for fale an 
 human h.md, dried and (hrivelled up, the 
 fingers of which were compleat, and the 
 nails long; but our horror may be better 
 conceivtd than exprefl'cd, when we faw a 
 feal hanging from the car of one of the men 
 in the canoe, which was known to have be- 
 longed todje unfoitunate Mr. ^:illar,of the 
 Imperial Eagle, whole melancholy hiftory 
 was pcrfe(flly well known to every one on 
 board*. The failors fcarcely hefitated a 
 
 moment 
 
 
 * The Impprial Kar,le was a fhip employed tocolleft 
 furs on the Coad of America, in the year 1787. In 
 thecourfe of tliis bufiiufs, the Captain difpatclied his 
 long-boat from Kir.g George's Sound, on a trading 
 expedition ar> far as 47" North; Ihc then anchored 
 a-br-^aftof a rivtr, the ihallows at whofe entrance pre- 
 vciitrd tlie long-boat from getting into it. A fmall 
 boa», howev«r. which was attached to the other, was 
 ftnt L'[;tl)e liver with Mr, Millar, an officer of the im- 
 perial Ea^lc, auoiiier youn); gentleman, and four fea- 
 
 men.— 
 
 '^^'' i»matmm \ 
 
 -^.;.-,-.^«RW<K' 
 
I I 
 
 be admitted 
 rounded the 
 
 with feveral 
 and coming 
 11 number of 
 d for fale an 
 lied up, the 
 eat, and the 
 \y be better 
 n we faw a 
 le of the men 
 
 I to have be- 
 ^iillar, of the 
 choly hiftory 
 every one on 
 
 hefitated a 
 moment 
 
 ploycJ to colleft 
 year 1787. In 
 
 II difpatched his 
 , on a trading 
 
 then anchored 
 fe entrance pre- 
 ito it. A fmall 
 the other, was 
 fficer of the Im- 
 ), and four fea- 
 jncn.— 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 moment in exprefTing their opinion that it 
 mufl have been the hind of Mr. Miliar, and 
 that the people before tlicm were the mur- 
 derers of that officer. This fufplcion would 
 have caukd the certain death of our vllitors, 
 if it had not been fuggcflcd that the leal in 
 queftion might have been transferred, by a 
 fucceflion of barters, to the preient pofil-f- 
 for. — The being in pofl'dlion of tlie hand 
 was, however, coiifidcrt-d as fo prepondera- 
 ting a circuniftance, that it was no ealy 
 matter to keep tht: lallors in due bounds; 
 and who, after all, could not be rcArair.cd 
 from driving thefe people away from the 
 fhip, with every mark of in hilt and dctcf- 
 tation. Tluy proved, iiovvevcr, to be inno* 
 cent of the crime of which tluy l;ad b:en 
 fufpectcd; as wc were aHured, the n.xt 
 day, by Maquilla himfelf, on his own kno\v- 
 ledge, that they had received tlie articles 
 wdiich hadoccalioned fo much diliiun: to us, 
 in the way of trade, from the natives of 
 Queenhythe, which was tlie very place 
 
 men. — They continued rovv'in_^ till they came to a vil- 
 lage, where they were fuppoied to !:;ivo l-;ccn feizcd ,\m\ 
 murtiorcil by the natives, as their cio.iths were aitcrwavds 
 fuund llaincd with blood. 
 
 N 4 wlicre 
 
 199 
 
 1788. 
 
 JUNS. 
 
200 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 
 1788. where Mr. Millar and his aflTociates had been 
 June, murdered. — But the chief did not attempt to 
 deny that the hand had belonged to one of 
 our unhappy countrymen ; and, from his 
 manifed confiifion in convcrfing on this 
 fubjc£l, and various other concurring cir- 
 cumftances, which will be related hereaf- 
 ter, wc were very much difpofed to believe 
 that Maquilla himfelf was a cannibal. — 
 There is, indeed, too much reafon to appre- 
 hend that the horrible traffic for human flcfli 
 extends, more or lefs, along this part of 
 the continent of America. Even our friend 
 Callicum repofed his head, at night, upon 
 a large bag, filled with human Ikulls, which 
 he fhewed as the trophies of his fuperior 
 courage ; and it is more than probable, that 
 the bodies of the vi£tims to which they 
 belonged, had furnifhed a banquet of vi«flory 
 for him and the warriors who fhared his 
 favage glory. 
 
 On the fame day Wicananifh, a powerful 
 chief to the Southward, at whofe court 
 Maquilla was vifiting when we arrived in 
 the Sound, came to return the vifit, with 
 two war canoes, and the greater part of his 
 numerous fuite fuperbly drefled in furs of 
 
 the 
 
 ''-*-* %iaWBW i!»>r 
 
 ' •*flj|Miiw*'' - 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 20 1 
 
 the higheft eftimation. Thefe people were 1788. 
 of a more thriving appearance than our J"««« 
 frienils at Nootka, which arofe, probably, 
 from their being fituated on a part of the 
 coaH: where whales were in greater plenty ; 
 — for this article, on which much of the 
 fuftenance, and all their luxury depended, 
 was beginning to be fcarce in Nootka Sound. 
 Wicanaiiilh paid us a formal vifit on board 
 the Felice, and invited us to his place of re- 
 (Idcncc, with a promife of great abundance 
 of furs; — but we could not, at prefent, 
 tempt him, or any of his attendants, by any 
 articles in our pofleflion, to part with the 
 beautiful drefl'es which they wore. 
 
 On the io>h, we obferved a general com- Tuefday i* 
 motion throughout the village, and, in a 
 fhort time, as if by enchantment, the greater 
 part of the houfes difappeared. — When we 
 went on fliore, Maquilla informed us that 
 his people were preparing to remove to a bay 
 which was at the diftance of abou; ts^o miles 
 from the Sound, on account of tne great 
 quantities of fifli which refortcd thither, not 
 only to procure a prefent ftock of whale 
 and other fi(h, but to take the earlleft op- 
 portunity 
 
S02 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. portunity to prepare for their winter's fub- 
 juNE. fifteiicc. 
 
 The manner In which the houfes of 
 Nootkaare conftrinflcd, renders the embark- 
 ations as well as debarkations a work of lit- 
 tle time and ready execution, io that a large 
 and populous village is entirely removed to 
 a different ftatlon with as mucli eafe as any 
 other water carriage. But a more particular 
 account of thcle and fimilar circumftances 
 relating to the manners and cudoms of 
 thefe North Weftcrn Americans, will, as we 
 have before had occafion to obCervc, be given 
 in another part of this volume. 
 
 Several young Tea otters were brought cui 
 board /or {i\le, which found no purchafers. 
 One of them was brought alive ; the dams 
 and all their whelps had been killed by Ma« 
 quilla, except this, which, however, had 
 met with fome very rougli treatment, as 
 one of its eyes had been evidently forced out 
 of its focket. It was very fmall, made a 
 noife exactly like a young child, and was the 
 moft animated creature we had ever feen 
 among the brute race. — After keeping it a 
 day or two, we threw it, into the fja, in 
 order to let it cfcape ; but, to our great fur- 
 * , . prize. 
 
 '•^i^ 
 
 tfi ,^ »-.-i , a 
 
/ 
 
 NORTf WE^T COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 203 
 
 prize, wc found that it could neither dive 1788, 
 or fwim, but cotitinucd flouncing about in Jun*- 
 the wat.r till wc retook ir on board, when 
 it loon at'rcr died from tin. bruifcs it had re- 
 ceived, — Tills circiimftance is, however, 
 eafily accounted for, as the dam of the fea 
 otter is well known to carry its young ones 
 on its back till a certain period, when they 
 have acquired both (Irength and habit tq 
 take care of tiiemlelvTS. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
204 
 
 1788. 
 
 JUMI. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 •ml 
 
 Ht 
 
 w 
 
 Wedncfdayii 
 
 Ship prepares to put to Sea, ^^T he Pinnace flokn 
 by the hiatives, — ImpoJJibility rjf recovering 
 her, — Some Uneafinejjes on beard the Ship. — 
 Officers and Party intended to be left onjhrre^ 
 iauded. — Provifians made for equipping the 
 new ycffel. — 7'he Sajeiy of the Party con- 
 f lilted. — Prngrefs of the new FeJlfeL — Health 
 of the Crew. — Supplies c/ Fi/b. — J formal 
 Vifit to Maquilla^ and Renewal rfthc 'treaty^ 
 ^c, — He is mads: acquainted with the probable 
 ^ime of the I p m c? kn i A *s Arrival. — Requefls 
 a Letter for the Captain.— Our /Ifloyiipment 
 at his Knoiijledge, and by what Means it was 
 obtained, — Story of Air , Mace ay . — Callicum 
 arrives from hunting the Sea Otter. '^Ar- 
 ticles which had beh.ngcd to Sir fofeph Banks 
 in his PoJfeHion. — T'he Ship puts to Sea. — 
 Plan of future Prccerdings, £fc. ^c, 
 
 ON the I ith of June, the weather being 
 fine and moderate, the fhip was un- 
 moored and towed by the boats out of 
 Friendly Cove, in order to put to Tea : it 
 had been our intention to have departed on 
 
 the 
 
 r^i>if^«mismm*i^- ^ 
 
 ■A*8pst»»^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 205 
 
 the 9th, hut we fuffercd an accident which i^SS. 
 very much diftrcflcd us : this was no lefs Jwnk. 
 than the lofs of the Pinnace, a very large 
 fine boat, and the only one of the kind we 
 had. We were difpolcd to btllcve, at firft, 
 that (he broke adrift from the* fhip in the 
 night, in a guft of wind, without being per- 
 ceived by the watch ; — but In the morning" 
 fhe was not to be feen, and both boats and 
 canoes were difpatched In fearch of her, 
 but to no purpol'c of fucccfs. Large re- 
 wards were then offered to the natives If 
 they would reftore her, as, from a variety of 
 citcumft.inces, we had no doubt but that fhe 
 was In their pofl'eflion. Maquilla and Cal- 
 Ileum both afllrted their liniocence in the 
 ftrongeft terms ; but it afterwards appeared, 
 as we fufpe<5lcd, that the boat had been fto- 
 len and broken up for the fake of the iron 
 and nails, which were afterwards difperfcd 
 throughout the Sound. 
 
 This theft threatened, at firft, n rupture 
 between us and the chief; and while there 
 were any hopes of producing tlie reftoratlon 
 of the Pinnace, we affumed rather an ap- 
 pearance of refentment ; but when we were 
 convinced that the recovery of the boat was 
 
 Im- 
 
 
'pi 
 
 206 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 ',/ 
 
 '',\ 
 
 I, 
 
 , ]'■■ 
 
 l\ 
 
 1788. impra£Vicable, we let the matter pafs over 
 June, without any further buflle or dlOurbance. 
 Had we, indeed, proceeded to take any fteps 
 towards a retaliation, it would probably have 
 occafioned a breach between us and the chief 
 of Nootka, which might have been difad- 
 vantageous to our commercial objedls in 
 general, and been attended with evident dan- 
 ger to the party we (hould leave behind us. 
 We therefore contented ourfelves with warn- 
 ing Maquilla againfl: any depredations of a 
 fimilar nature, and fufpending the quarter- 
 mafters from their ftations, as it was from 
 their negled that this very diftreffing incon- 
 venience proceeded. 
 
 There ftill continued to lurk amongft 
 the crew thofe fymptoms of mutiny which 
 had, at times, difcovered itfelf in the early 
 part of the voyage ; though we had flattered 
 ourfelves that it was entirely eradicated pre- 
 vious to our arrival at Samboingan. The 
 boatfwain had lately failed in that refpedl to 
 the officers which the duties of his ftation 
 indifpenfably obliged him to obferve. But 
 a proper degree of fpirit and exertion checked 
 fuch menacing condu£V, and he was degra- 
 ded from his (ituation to the inferior duty 
 
 3 before 
 
 W !:! 
 
 '"'••'*'***W.-H9fflr.v. 
 
1 1 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 before the maft. Another boatfwain was ap- 
 pointed in his ftead, and the whole of this 
 proceeding was entered in the log-book. 
 
 On the day previous to our departure we 
 landed the officers and party who were to 
 remain on (hore with the carpenters, in order 
 to compleat the veflll. Proper inftrudions 
 were left with the commanding officer, 
 fliould the Felice fail in her propofcd re- 
 turn, or any fatality happen cither to her 
 or the Iphlgenia, who was expe<fted in the 
 Sound by the latter end of the autumn.— 
 In cafe fuch an accumulated misfortune 
 fliould befi\l the expedition, we left every 
 necefl'ary ftore to equip the new vefl'el for 
 fea, with fufficient provifions to carry her 
 to the Sandwich Iflands, where fhe would 
 be able to obtain fufficient refreffiment to 
 enable her to proceed to China. It was but 
 a necefiary duty to guard, as well as we 
 were able, againft every poffible calamity ; 
 the fliip*s company did not appear to feel 
 any imprefiions of an unfavourable omen, 
 and we left our friends on flic re with the 
 moft chearhig hopes of finding them at our 
 return, in a fituation of great adva? tage and 
 comfort. 
 
 Butj 
 
 207 
 1788. 
 
 June. 
 
 
i 
 
 :'! 
 
 [i 
 
 208 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. But, independent of the veiTel, we hoped 
 June, to reap very confiderable benefits from tlic 
 party on (hore ; at lead we had every reafon 
 to expe(5t that they would col left all the 
 furs taken by the inhabitants of King 
 George's Sound during the fummer months, 
 which we knew mufl be confiderable. We 
 were, at all events, very certaifi that they 
 would remain free from difturbance And mo. 
 legation ; for befides a piece of cannon 
 mounted on the works, the little fort was 
 well fupplied with arms and ammunition ; 
 and the garrifou, including the artificers, 
 was fully fufficient to defend it againfl: any 
 power that could be brought agahift it. 
 
 The vefld was in great forwardnefs, fc- 
 veral of her floor-timbers were laid, and the 
 armourers had prepared a large quantity of 
 nails and bolts. There was eftabliflicd, be- 
 fides, a very convenient rope-walk, and we 
 had already begun to manufacture that ef- 
 fential article. So that, if ail the circum- 
 ftances of erecting a comfortable and com- 
 modious houfe, ballafting and equip j-*!!!?^, the 
 Felice for fea, and the laborious bufnicls of 
 procuring timber and preparing materials for 
 the conftruction of the new veilels, with 
 . . ^ fome 
 
 1 i 
 
II 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA. 
 
 fbme few neceflary attentions to our com- 
 mercial arrangements, be confidefed, the 
 accufation of idlenefs or negligence, would 
 be the laft that the moft unreflecting injuftice 
 could lay to our charge. 
 
 On our firft arrival in the Sound th6 
 country appeared moid, dreary, and uncom- 
 fortable ; but we obferved very little fnow 
 then on the ground, and that little was 
 quickly waflicd away by the heavy rains 
 which fucceeded our arrival : — we found 
 the air remarkably mild, and the frefli 
 greens and onions, which were in thegreat- 
 eft abundance, foon reftored the invalids 
 we had on board to a ftate of perfe(Si: health. 
 
 Our fupplics of fifli were conftant and 
 regular, and the natives never failed to bring 
 to daily fale as much of this article as they 
 could fpare from the demands of home con- 
 fumption. 
 
 On the eve of our departure, a formal vifit 
 was paid Maquilla, in order to acquaint him 
 that on the next day we propofed to leave 
 the Sound. We made him underftand that 
 it would be three or four months before 
 our (hip would return, and about what time 
 we fuppofed the veflel on the ftocks would 
 Vol. I. O b« 
 
 209 
 
 1788. 
 
 JUNI. 
 
 t 
 
(I 
 
 ■• 1 
 
 ii 
 
 I I 
 
 ...1 
 
 tl9 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. be launched. They called the latterAf^x- 
 JuNi. tnallee^ or (hip, and the former TigJbee Ma* 
 
 njatlee^ or great (hip. The chief was alfo 
 
 requefted to fhew every mark of attention 
 and friendfhip to the party we (hould leave 
 on fhore ; and as a bribe to fecure his at- 
 tachment, he was promifed that when we 
 finally left the coaft, he fhoiild enter into 
 full pofl'cflion of thehoufe and all the goods 
 and chattels thereunto belonging. As a 
 proof of our immediate regard, he was pre- 
 fented with a fuit of cloaths covered with 
 metal buttons, in his eyes of extraordinary 
 eftimation ; feveral prefents were made to 
 the, ladies of his family ; and as wc were 
 ■ taking our leave, an old lady, the aunt of 
 Comekela, whom we have already defcribed 
 as a mafs of age and filthinefs, requefted, 
 in a very earneft manner, to be indulged 
 with a pair of buckles, which, immediately 
 on her receiving them, were hung in her 
 ears, with the fame pride that European 
 beauty feels in decorating its charms with 
 the gems of India. 
 
 Maquilla, who was glowing with delight 
 at the attentions we had paid him, readily 
 granted every requ eft we thought proper to 
 
 make, 
 
 M 
 
 ^»t*SI*ft»SiS*»-- 
 
I I 
 
 n 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA; 
 
 211 
 
 harms with 
 
 make, and confirmed, with the ftrongeft 1788. 
 aflu ranees of good taith, the treaty of friend- •I^*'*- 
 fhip which had been already entered into 
 between us. He was now alfo informed that 
 another (hip was expe<51:ed in the Sound, 
 which might probably arrive in our abfcnce, 
 and that the Captain of this fhip was our 
 particular friend. On receiving this intel* 
 ligence, he very much aflonifhed us by de- 
 manding, without the leaft hefitation, that 
 we would leave a letter with him for our * 
 friend, the chief. We had not the leaft idea 
 that thefe people had the moft imperfect 
 notion of our poflefTnig the faculty of com- 
 municating our thoughts to each other on 
 paper ; and curioiity was inflantly awake, 
 to know by what means th^y could po/Iibly 
 have acquired fuch an article of information. 
 It was, however, foon iugr^cfled to us, that 
 thefe people obtained their knowledge from 
 a Mr. Maccay, who had remained, wc be- 
 lieve, upwards of fourteen months among 
 them, during which time he had kept a jour- 
 nal, which we have feen, and the circum- 
 ftance of which cannot be pafl'ed over without 
 fome account of the bufinefs which occa- 
 
 O z fioncd 
 
 1 
 
112 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 If 
 
 I if 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 1788. doncd his being left to nothing better than 
 
 jwNi. favage life. 
 
 The fliips Captain Cook and Experiment 
 had been equipped under the direftion of 
 Mr. Scot, — whofe mercantile experience and 
 fpirit are acknowledged in Europe as well 
 as in India, — from Bombay to America, for 
 the purpofe of colle(5ling furs: — they ar- 
 rived on the coaft in the year 1786, and 
 left Mr. Maccay, the furgeon's mate on 
 board one of them, with his own entire con- 
 fent and approbation, under the protedion 
 of Maquilla. Mr. Strange, who had the 
 fuperintendence of thefe (hips, entertained 
 an opinion that very great commercial effects 
 might proceed from leaving Mr. Maccay 
 with the natives of King George's Sound, 
 to learn their language, cuftoms and man- 
 ners. He was, therefore, accordingly left 
 in the year 1786, and continued with them 
 till 1787, when he embarked for China on 
 board the Imperial Eagle. 
 
 Though this gentleman had been furnifh^ 
 ed with cloaths and provifions for his ftay at 
 Nootka, he was reduced to the level of a 
 favage, and we hardly could conceive how 
 it was poflible for an European conftitution 
 
 to 
 
. / ' 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 to fupportitfelfwith foodaverfe to its habits 
 and its nature, — to live in every fpecies of 
 filth, and fatisfy even hunger with train oil 
 and blubber. But this was not all, — during 
 Mr. Maccay's ftay, from the length and 
 feverlty of the winter, a fiimine reigned at 
 Nootka Sound : the (lock of dried fifli was 
 expended, and no frefh fupply of any kind 
 was to be caught; fo that the natives were 
 obliged to fubmit to a ftatcd allowance, and 
 the chiefs brought every day to our coun- 
 trymen, the dated meal of feven dried her- 
 rings heads. The perufal of this gentle- 
 man's journal would Ihock any mind tinc- 
 tured with humanity. The favages, how- 
 ever, gave him a wife, and once or twice 
 took him with them to feafts and diftant 
 parts; and we can vouch, whatever their 
 condu£l: may have been, that both the chiefs 
 at Nootka and Wicananifh enquired con- 
 cerning his welfare as if they felt the affec- 
 tion for him which they expreffed. 
 
 Maquilla was therefore indulged with a 
 letter agreeable to his requeft ; and we were 
 not long in making the difcovery, that a 
 dread of the Iphigenia*s arrival would prove 
 a ftronger protection to our party, than all 
 
 O 3 the 
 
 21J 
 
 1788. 
 
 VNE. 
 
 s 
 
ai4 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 r ,s 
 
 il' 
 
 .r % !f 
 
 
 i 
 
 i* 
 
 : I 
 
 P' '< 
 
 ,v 
 
 J 788. the kindnefs we had beftowed on, and all 
 June, jjjg promifes which we had received from 
 him. 
 
 CalJicum, who had been gone for fome 
 time to hunt otters, was now returned, and 
 it gave us no little Ihtisfadtion that the chief 
 on whom we had the moft reliance, and 
 who was the profelied prote<5lor and patron 
 of our party, was come back to Nootka, 
 previous to our departure from it. The 
 ufual tokens of friendlhip pafled between 
 us ; but, in return for the prelent we now 
 made him, he furprifed us with three pieces 
 ' of a brafly metal formed like cricket bats, 
 
 on which the remains of the name and arms 
 of Sir Jofeph Banks, and the date of the year 
 1775, were very evident. On one of them 
 the engraving was not fo much injured as to 
 prevent the whole of it from being very 
 intelligible ; on the others, part of thefe 
 diftin*5l marks was worn out. But thele 
 tokens of regard were returned to the ami- 
 able chief, to continue the remembrance of 
 
 L 
 
 the original donor of them, to whofe enter- 
 prifing and phllofophic fpirit we may be 
 faid to be in a great meaiure indebted for 
 the difcovery of a coaft, which, in fpite of 
 
 every 
 
 ^ 
 J 
 
on, and all 
 t'ceived from 
 
 •'^m^gtwf 
 
 ne for fome 
 eturned, and 
 hat the chief 
 reliance, and 
 r and patron 
 
 to Nootka, 
 )m it. The 
 red between 
 Cent we now 
 
 three pieces 
 cricket bats, 
 me and arms 
 :e of the year 
 
 one of them 
 injured as to 
 
 being very 
 art of thefe 
 But thefe 
 1 to the ami- 
 smbrance of 
 ivhofe enter- 
 we may be 
 ndebted for 
 , in fpite of 
 every 
 
 :ii 
 
S- 
 
 M^ 
 
 I'- 
 
 ^//amM, a .A'/?//Y off /a >( V , 
 
 -^' 
 
 Fuh/iX6JjA/t^fl6.2^^o.f>yJW,t/ferM'j6.^.ficcntJi/fy. 
 
Ill 
 
 i'-. .^»'* 
 
 t 
 
 :m 
 
 ^:^ 
 
tW/tY,,r, W////V' t>f'(V////<r.i^ 
 (hif of tbf. SaM/Ay/ii^^^yirftt/i>\ 
 
 \K 
 
 
■\ 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA. 
 
 every impediment, will, I truft, prove a 
 fourcc of beneficial commerce to our coun- 
 
 On pnttiiig fo fca, it was determined to 
 trace the buutlicm pnrt of the coaft from 
 King George's Souiul, as the Ipliigcnla was 
 to trace the Northern pnrt of it, from Couk's 
 River to the fame place ; by which ar- 
 rangement the w hole of the American con- 
 tinent from 60'' to 45° North would be ex- 
 plored, with various intermediate places 
 which were not examined by Captain Cook. 
 We accordingly let fail, after having given 
 repeated inftrudions to the party we left 
 behind, to hold themfelves continually on 
 their guard againft the natives,— and to be 
 extremely attentive to preferve the moft 
 perfe6l harmony with the inhabitants of 
 Nootka Sound, 
 
 i»5 
 
 1788. 
 
 JV-NK. 
 
 ■f 
 
 1 
 
 - . > 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 O4 
 
 l( 
 
 Ml 
 
 I '- »i 
 
2l6 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 Juki. 
 
 CHAP. XIT. 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 
 i 
 
 111 
 
 
 1 
 
 I'l 
 
 
 iW 
 
 9 , f^ 
 
 'jk 
 
 m 
 
 m\}l 
 
 $. 
 
 1 
 
 Ij 
 
 
 m 
 
 H^K iii,3,i 
 
 M 
 
 ^he Chief sHanna and Detootchevijtt the Ship on 
 her Way to the Rejidence cfWicananipj^ &c. 
 — JVicananiJh arrives on board, and pilots the 
 Ship into his Roadjled. — Numbers of the In- 
 habitants come off to the Ship.-— The Face of 
 the Country and the Village of IVicananijlo 
 defcribed.-^Vifit paid to the Chief — Defer ip - 
 tionof his Houf\ — Their Ingenuity a Subje£i 
 of Aflonifhment. — Immenfe Family of Wican- 
 anifh, — His Wives ; their Beauty, &c. — 
 £ri/k Trade carried on with the Natives. — 
 Murder of a Stranger by the People of the 
 Village, — The Ship obliged by bad Weather tq 
 enter the inner Port, named Port Cox, 
 
 Wednefdayii/^N the 1 1 til of June in the evening, we 
 ^^ were purfuing our courfe to the South 
 Eaft, at the diftance of three miles from 
 the fhore, when, at funfet, Breaker's Point, 
 which forms the Eaftern (hore of the entrance 
 of King George's Sound, bore in the dire(Slion 
 pf North Weft half Weft, and a point ap- 
 peared 
 
Uv 
 
 ■it . ^ 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 peared ftretching to the Southward of Break- 
 er's Point, which obtained the name of 
 Half-way Point, on account of its being 
 about midway between King George's Sound 
 and the refidence of Wicananifli. This 
 point bore Eaft, and our diftance from the 
 ihore might be about three leagues. By a 
 medium of feveral amplitudes and azimuths, 
 the variation of the compafs was 21° 5' 
 Eafterly. 
 
 We continued our courfe till eleven 
 o'clock, with the long-boat in tow, when it 
 was thought prudent to heave to for the 
 night. ,At day-break on the 12th, we made 
 fail, with the wind variable. At noon the 
 obferved latitude was 49° 22' North, though 
 we yet obferved Breaker's Point bearing 
 North Weft by North ; and at the fame 
 time faw an high mountain over the entrance 
 of Wicananifti, bearing Eaft North Eaft, at 
 the diftance of feven leagues. 
 
 As we purfued our courfe, under an cafjr 
 fail, in order to examine the coaft between 
 our prefent pofition and King George's 
 Sound, the wind veered to the South Eaft 
 by Eaft, and the weather became overcaft ; 
 ^s this wind was diredtly againft us, the 
 
 fliip 
 
 217 
 
 \ 
 
 1788. 
 
 ,1 
 * 
 
 
 Juke. 
 
 y^ 
 
 
 • 
 
 -M 
 
 • 
 
 il' 
 
 \ 
 
 
 \ 
 
 \M 
 
 I 
 
 - .fei^fcrf-"- *- -• - -•■ w— - 
 
2l8 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 mm 
 
 ■i . . 
 
 |8 
 
 r 
 
 ' 1- 
 
 1 
 
 ffB, 
 
 1 
 
 [■1 
 
 1 
 
 |B^' 
 
 § 
 
 1 788. fliip was tacked, and we ftood out to fea, 
 June, being apprehenfive of bad weather, which 
 we generally found to attend the South Eaft 
 •winds. Our fears were foon and very fully 
 confirmed, for the weather became fqually 
 and violent. The top-fails were clofe reefed; 
 and we continued (landing to fea to procure 
 an offing, the moft important objedl of at- 
 tention on this coaft. In the night it blew 
 very hard from the South Eaft, with an 
 heavy fea, thick weather, and conftant as 
 well as violent rain. At midnight the (hip 
 was wore, and we flood in for the land. 
 
 At day-break on the 13th, the weather, 
 though it cleared away at times, had a very 
 tempeftuous appearance ; our diftance from 
 the land might be fix leagues, and the re- 
 markable hill above Wicananifli appeared 
 very plain in the form of a fugar-loaf ; it 
 bore North Eaft by Eaft feven leagues. As 
 we ftood in for the ftiore, feveral canoes came 
 off to us from a clufter of iflands nearly 
 abreaft of us, in moft of which there were 
 upwards of twenty men, of a pleafing ap- 
 pearance and brawny form, chiefly cloathed 
 in otter (kins of great beauty. They pad- 
 dled along with great velocity, and after 
 
 fomc 
 
 ' I 
 
r.' 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 219 
 
 i \ 
 
 fome time, two of the boats came along-fide, 1 788, 
 and the people in them did not hefitate to Junk. 
 come on board. Amongft them there were 
 two chiefs, named Hanna and Detootche, 
 who refided at a village abreaft of the (hip. 
 They were the handfomeft men we had feen : 
 — Hanna was about forty, and carried in his 
 looks all the exterior marks of pleafantry and 
 good humour ; Detootche was a young man, 
 who to the btauty of form, added the graces 
 of manner; and, as far as our penetration 
 could difcover, the better qualities of the 
 mind. They appeared to be perfectly at eafe 
 m our fociety, fhook every perfon on board 
 by the hand, and gave us very friendly in- 
 vitations to receive the hofpitality of their 
 territory. They were extremely prefTing 
 that the ftiip fhould go in among the iflands. 
 But as we had predetermined to feek out 
 the rcfidence of Wicananifli, which we were 
 inftrudled was not flir from King George's 
 Sound, we kept (landing with that view 
 towards the iflands, which, as we approach- 
 ed, appeared to be low and woody, but 
 we could perceive no praflicable channel 
 between them. Hanna and Detootche, to 
 
 whom 
 
 J 
 I 
 
 1 1 
 
 \ 
 
 )i 
 
 ^ 
 
220 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 'i 
 
 W 
 
 L<i 
 
 i 
 
 } 
 
 1788'. whom we had made fome trifling prefents, 
 June, now took their leave and paddled on (here. 
 About noon the weather broke up, and 
 the wind veered to the Northward of Eaft, 
 with wiiich we ftood along the (hore to enter 
 between this range of iflands and the main ; 
 when we perceived another fmall fleet of 
 canoes approaching us, in the foremoft of 
 which we faw Wicananifli, who, in a fhort 
 time came on board, and undertook to pilot 
 us himfelf into his harbour, the entrance of 
 which, as he pointed it out to us, was at the 
 diftance of about five miles. 
 
 Boats were now fent a-head to found, and 
 we followed, under an eafy fail ; when, 
 after rounding the extremity of the South- 
 ernmoft ifland, we entered the roadfted, 
 pa{ling between feveral reefs of rocks. Our 
 foundings were very regular ; and, about 
 one o'clock, we anchored between the main 
 and the iflands, being pretty well ftieltered 
 from the fea. Wicananilh proved an ex- 
 '' cellent pilot, and wa? not only indefatigable 
 in his own exertions, but equally attentive 
 to the condu£l of his canoes, in their at- 
 tendance upon us. 
 
 ' This 
 
 
 ■s .ff^Ki^: 
 
 ^^•fSilWBf'^-^lliP^^ 
 
/.' 
 
 . ^: 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 22l 
 
 This roadfted bore the wildeft appearance 1^88. 
 that can be conceived, and was defended Jims, 
 from the fea by feveral fmall iflets and reefs, 
 which nearly connected them. The port we 
 obferved was (ituated about two miles from 
 the anchoring ground we occupied, the en- 
 trance of which did not appear to be more 
 than two cables length in breadth. 
 
 Abreaft of the (hip, on one of the iflands, 
 we perceived a village almoft thrice as large 
 as that of Xootka ; from every part of which 
 we now faw the people launching their ca- 
 noes, and coming off in flioals to the fliip, 
 laden with fi(h, wild onions, and berries, 
 which they difpofed of to the failors for 
 fmall bits of irpn, and other articles of fimi- 
 
 lar attraiStion. Wicananifh w^as enter* 
 
 talned during the greater part of the 3ay on 
 board, with levcral of his friends, and at 
 night returned to the (hore, followed by a 
 long train of natives, who had waited to at- 
 tend him. 
 
 The very fine weather on the 14th, gave Saturday 14 
 us an opportunity to obferve the face of the 
 country, which appeared on all fides to be 
 an impenetrable foreft, without any intervals 
 of a clear country. The village of Wicananifh 
 
 I flands 
 
 i 
 
 v.i 
 
 L. 
 
 ..i yi 
 
 M 
 
 
 li 
 
Wm'l 
 
 i22 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 I, 
 
 ii 
 
 If 
 
 u 
 
 •11 
 
 J 
 
 1788. ftands on a rifing bank near the fea, and 
 juKB. is backed by the woods. In conleqiience of 
 a meffage from the chief to invite us to a 
 fenft at his houfe, we landed about noon, 
 when we were met by a large crowd of 
 women and children, and condu(5led by the 
 brother of Wicananifli to the place of enter- 
 tainment. 
 
 On entering the honfc, we were abfolute- 
 ly aftoniflied at the vaft area it cnclofcd. — 
 It contained a large fquare, boarded up clofe 
 on all fides to the height of twenty feet, 
 with planks of an uncommon breadth and 
 length. Three enormous trees, rudely car- 
 ved and painted, formed the rafters, which 
 were fupported at the ends and in the mid- 
 dle by gigantic images, carved out of huge 
 blocks of timber. The fame kind of broad 
 planks covered the whole to keep out the 
 rain ; but they were fo placed as to be re- 
 moved at pleafure, either to receive the air 
 and light, or let out the fmoke. In the mid- 
 dle of this fpacious room were feveral fires, 
 and befide them large wooden vefl'els filled 
 with fifh foup. Large flices of whale's 
 fleih lay in a flate of preparation to be put in 
 iimilar machines filled with water, into 
 
 • ■ which 
 
 \:\ 
 
II 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 which the women, with a kind of tongs, 
 conveyed hot ftones from very fierce fires, 
 in order to make it boil : — heaps of fifh 
 were ftrewed about, and in this central part 
 of the place, which might very properly be 
 called the kitchen, flood large feal-fkins 
 filled with oil, from whence the guefts were 
 ferved with that delicious beverage. 
 
 The trees that fupported the roof were 
 of a fize which would render the maft of a 
 firft-rateman of war diminutive, on a com- 
 parifon with them ; indeed our curiofity av«i 
 well as our aftonifliment was on its utmoft 
 ftretch, when we confidered the ftrength 
 that muft be neceflary to raife thefe enor- 
 mous beams to their prefent elevation ; and 
 how fuch ftrength could be found by a peo- 
 ple wholly unacquainted with mechanic 
 powers. The door by which we entered this 
 extraordinary fabric, was the mouth of one 
 of thefe huge images, which, large as it may 
 be fuppofed, was not difproportioned to the 
 other features of this monftrous vifage. — 
 We afcended by a few fteps on the out fide, 
 and after paffing this extraordinary kind 
 of portal, defcended down the chin into 
 the houfe, where we found new matter for 
 
 afto- 
 
 223 
 
 1788. 
 
 Juke. 
 
 ^ 
 
 . .11 
 
I.' 
 
 224 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1 
 
 y 
 
 1788. aftonifhment in the number of mer, women, 
 JuHK- and children, who compofed the family of 
 the chief; which confifted of at leaft eight 
 hundred perfons. Thefe were divided into 
 groupes, according to their refpe<5tive offices, 
 which had their diftindt places afligned them. 
 The whole of the building was furrounded 
 by a bench, about two feet from the ground, 
 on which the various inhabitants fat, eat 
 and flept. The chief appeared at the upper 
 end of the room, furrounded by natives of 
 rank, on a fmali raifed platform, round 
 which were placed feveral large chefts, over 
 which hung bladders of oil, large dices 
 of whale's flefh, and proportionable gobbets 
 of blubber". Feftoons of human fculls, ar- 
 ranged with fome attention to uniformity, 
 were difpofed in almofl: every part where 
 they could be placed, and were confidered 
 as a very fplendid decoration of the royal 
 apartment. 
 
 When we appeared, the guefts had made 
 a confiderable advance in their banquet. — 
 Before each perfon was placed a large (lice 
 of boiled whale, which, with fmall wooden 
 diflies, filled with oil and fifli foup, and a 
 large mufcle-ftiell, by way of fpoon, com- 
 .. ^ pofed 
 
 n 
 
 r 1 1 
 
i'\ 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 pofcd the economy of the table. The fer- 
 vants were bufily employed hi prepanng 
 to replenlfh the fevcral didies as they were 
 emptied, and the women in pickuig and open- 
 ing the bark of a tree which ferved the pur- 
 pofc of towels. If the luxury of this en- 
 tertainment is to be determined by the vo- 
 racioufnefs with which it was eaten, and 
 the quantity that was fwallowcd, we muft 
 confider it as the mofl luxurious feafl we 
 had ever beheld. Even the children, and 
 fome of them were not more than three 
 years old, pofleflcd the fame rapacious ap- 
 petite for oil and blubber as their fathers. 
 The women, however, are forbidden from 
 eating at thefe ceremonials. 
 
 Wicananiih, with an air of hofpitality 
 which would have graced a n:iore cultivated 
 fociety, met us halt way from the entrance, 
 and condu^fted us to a feat near his own, on 
 which we placed ourfelves, and indulged 
 our curiofity during the remainder of the 
 banquet, in viewing the perfpeclive of this 
 lingular habitation. 
 
 The feaft being ended, we were defired 
 
 to (hew the prefents which were intended 
 
 for the chief: — a great variety of articles. 
 
 Vol. I. P brought 
 
 225 
 
 1788. 
 
 JUNI. 
 
 I 
 
 ^ 
 
 i^^^ 
 
ai^ 
 
 VOYAGIS TO THt 
 
 i 1, 
 
 ^J 
 
 ^ 
 
 1788. brought for that purpofe, were accordingly 
 juNi. difplayed, among which were feveral blan- 
 kets and two copper tea-kettles. The eyes of 
 the whole aflembly were rivetted on thef« 
 tinufual obje^s, and a guardian was imme* 
 diately afligned to the two tea-kettles, who, 
 on account of their extraordinary value and 
 beauty, was ordered to place them with great 
 care in the royal coiTcrs, which confifted of 
 large chefts rudely carved, and fancifully 
 adorned with human teeth. 
 
 About fifty men now advanced in the 
 middle of the area, each of ll.em holding up 
 before us a fea otter Ikin of near fix feet in 
 length, and the moft jetty blacknefs. As 
 they remained in this pofture, the chief 
 made a fpeech, and giving his hand in token 
 of friendfliip, informed us that thcfe Ikins 
 were the return he propofed to make for our 
 prefent, and accordingly ordered them to be 
 immediately fent to the fhip. 
 
 Our royal hoft appeared to be entirely 
 fatisfied with our homage; and we, who 
 were equally pleafcd with his magnificence, 
 were about to take our leave, when the ladieS 
 of his family advanced towards us, from ^ 
 diflant part of the building, whither they 
 
 had 
 
( / 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMEP'CA. 
 
 227 
 
 had retired during the entertainment. Two 178S, 
 of them had paflcd the middle age, but the i^'"*- 
 other two were young, and the beauty of 
 their countenances was To powerful as to 
 predominate over the oil and red ochre which, 
 in a great meafure, covered them. One of 
 the latter, in particular, dlfplayed fo fweet 
 an air of diffidence and modefty, that no 
 difguft of colour, or deformity of drefs, could 
 preclude her from awakening an intereft even 
 in minds cultured to refinement. We had 
 not, very fortunately, difpofed of all the 
 treafure we had brought on (horo, and a few 
 beads and ear-rings that yet remained, ferved 
 to give our vifit a concluding grace, by pre- 
 fenting them to thefe ladies of the court. 
 
 We continued till the 17th, carrying on 
 a very brifk trade with the natives. The ' 
 chief generally paid us a vifit every day, and 
 we lived on the mofl friendly terms with 
 him and the whole village. The natives 
 brought us abundance of fifh of various 
 kinds. The falmon and falmon-trout was of 
 the beft flavour, and we generally received 
 cod, halibut, rock-fi(h, and herrings frefh 
 from the lea; while the women and children 
 fold us cray-fUh, berries, wild onions, fal- 
 
 P2 lads. 
 
228 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 t 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 1788. l^<Js, and other cfculcnt plants : — an occa- 
 June, fional piece of vcnifon alfo heightened the 
 luxury of our table. 
 Tu«fdayi7 On the 17th, Wicananifh requcfted our 
 attendance on fliore to engage in a barter for 
 furs. On our landing, we were condu£lcd, 
 as before, to his houfc, where wc found the 
 number of his family to be rather encreafed 
 • than diminlfhed. No form or ceremony, 
 however, was now employed ; the whole 
 family fecmed to enjoy a foclable intcr- 
 courfe with each other ; the women were 
 permitted to eat with the men, and greatly 
 to our fatlsfajHiion, the whole company ap- 
 peared with the familiarity of ijnbefmcared 
 faces, fo th'it we had an opportunity of 
 examining: the comelinefs of one fex, and 
 the beauty of the other. This circumftancc 
 led us to infer, that thefe people employ 
 paint only on days of feflivity and cere- 
 mony. 
 
 The fea otter llvins and other furs were 
 now produced to the number of thirty, and 
 ■of the moll: beautiful kind ; which, after a 
 confiderablc deal of negotiation, we at length 
 purchaled ; for we found, to our coft, that 
 thcfc people, like thole of Nootka, poflefTed 
 
 all 
 
1 i 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMKRICA. 
 
 229 
 
 :s: — an occa- 
 clghteiicd the 
 
 rcquefted our 
 
 in a barter for 
 
 re condu6lcd, 
 
 wc found the 
 
 her encreafcd 
 
 or ceremony, 
 
 the whole 
 
 jclable intLT- 
 
 women were 
 
 , and great 1/ 
 
 company ap- 
 
 ijnbeimcared 
 
 3port unity of 
 
 one fcx, and 
 
 circumftance 
 
 lople employ 
 
 ty and cere- 
 
 icr furs were 
 f thirty, and 
 hich, after a 
 , we at length 
 >ur coft, that 
 tka, poflefTed 
 all 
 
 all the cunning neccfl'ary to the gains of 1788, 
 mercantile life. The lame rage for pre- Jw.fi. 
 fcnts prevailed here, as in the Sound ; and 
 even the ladies would interf(jre in making a 
 bar ^ain, and retard the conclulion of it, till 
 they had been gratified with an added of- 
 fering. 
 
 Juft as we were going to embark, there was 
 a fiuldcn and univcrfal confufion throughout 
 the village; aconfiderable number of canoes 
 were inftantly filled with armed men, and 
 being launched in a moment, were paddled 
 to the (hip. At firft we were apprchenfive 
 that fome broil had taken place between the 
 natives and the crew ; but we were foon 
 fatisfied that a matter of political jcaloufy, 
 refpetfting fome of their neighbours, was 
 the caufe of this fudden commotion. Some 
 ft rangers having ventured to vifit the (hip 
 without the knowledge of VVicananini, the 
 chief had ordered his people to fcill upon the 
 intruders, one of whom they had now feized 
 and brought on (hore. We are forry to add, 
 that this unfortunate man was immediately 
 hurried into the woods, where we have every 
 reafon to apprehend that he was quickly 
 murdered. We made the moft earneft inter- 
 
 P 3 ceflioa 
 
 ■jfcfeitt^a-wi*.'"™*" 
 
 '"ym*" 
 
250 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 ( 
 
 iifPfii ' J 
 ill 
 
 1788. ceflion in his behalf, and even proceeded to 
 June, threats on the occafion ; but while we were 
 employed in the office of mercy, they, we 
 fear, were enjoying the barbarity of re- 
 venge. This event ftrengthened our opinion, 
 that however mild and friendly the behaviour 
 of thefe people might be to us, perhaps 
 '' inidcr the influence of fear, they were fierce 
 
 and cruel to each other. Indeed it had been 
 very generally obfcrved by us all, that at 
 times, their countenances told a very plain 
 tale of a favage mind. 
 Friday 20 The Weather was very bad till the 20th, 
 it blowing an hard gale of wind from the 
 South Eaft, with continual rain. At times, 
 alfo, an heavy fwell rolled in upon us, which 
 rendered our fituation very unpleafant. It 
 , was therefore determined that we fhould 
 
 embrace the firft favourable moment to get 
 into the inner port, which had been already 
 , furveycd, and was found to be not only con- 
 venient, but entirely defended from thq 
 winds. 
 
 In the evening it moderated, when the (hip 
 
 was got under fail, which was no fooner ob- 
 
 ferved by Wicananifli than he came on board, 
 
 . and fafcly piloted us into the harbour, which 
 
 • we 
 
 ■<fc ■.1>'*J*»%ii^'.ri.ii- • ., , 
 
if 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 33 s 
 
 we named Port Cox, in honour of our friend 1783, 
 John Henry Cox, Efq. — But not chufing to Jy«»» 
 truft entirely to the Ikill of the chief on the 
 occaiion, the boats were fent a-head to found, 
 particularly on the bar; on which wc had 
 three and an half and four fathoms, and fbon 
 after deepened our water to thirteen, four- 
 teen and fifteen fathoms. It then decreafcd 
 to eight, in which depth we dropped our 
 anchor in a fafe and fccure harbour. 
 
 
 I 
 
 I ' 
 
 
 P4 
 
 CHAP. 
 
t^z 
 
 1788. 
 
 June. 
 
 r 
 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 CHAP. xiir. 
 
 7ke People cflVicananifi lefs civilized than thofe 
 at Nootka, — Gcrtai'/i n:c'?Jjhry Precautions give 
 offence to, and ccccf.on n Coclnefs between us 
 and the Chief. — Good Undcrfmnding reftored, 
 and the Irea'y of FricndJJjip renewed. — Re^ 
 
 ■ ciprocal Pj-efcnts pafs on the Occafion, — 77j<f 
 Vfe of Fire-arms known to thefc People, — • 
 7he Village removes to a fnaU Diftance. — 
 Treaty between Wicana?iill, Hanna and De^ 
 tootche. — Prcfcnts on the Qccajvm. — Good Con" 
 fequenccs rcfuJting to us from the I'realy. — 
 Prefcnls m^idc to and received from Wicana- 
 nifo, — Prcfent arrives from King George^ s 
 Sound, &C.—- Pre fare for Sea. — T/:e Felice 
 proceeds on her Voyage, — Defer ipl ion of Port 
 CoXf &c, ^c, 
 
 ON the firft view, the fubjc<5ls of this 
 chief appeared to be far lefs civilized 
 than our friends at Nootka ; we therefore 
 proportionably cncrcafed our precautions.— 
 Their numbers were very coufiderable, and 
 the boldnefs they difcovered in all their 
 g tranfac- 
 
 1 1 • 1 
 
NORTH WESl,' COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 233 
 
 tranfa^llons with us, gave us reafon to be* iy88, 
 lieve, that any relaxation of our viglhnce juxi, 
 might tempt them to a condu£l which 
 would produce difiigreeabie confequences to 
 us all. Befides, both in fagacity, as well as 
 activity, they were very fuperior to the in- 
 habitants of King George's Sound.— Wi- 
 cananilh himfelf, though rather inclined 
 to be corpulent, was athletic and adive ;— 
 his brothers poflcffed the fame advantages; 
 and all the young men were robuft, in a 
 continual ftate of exercife, and enured to 
 confl-ant labour. We obferved, that the mod 
 tempcftuous weather never previ:;nted them 
 from gv'iing to fca, to ftrike the whale or kill 
 the otter : — fi Thing was an occupation which 
 was followed only by the inferior clafles of 
 the people. — The dominions of this chief 
 were ve*-/ extenfive, and the numerous tribes 
 who acknowledged his dominion, rendered 
 him a very powerful fovereign. We, thet«« 
 fore, had fufficient reafon to remain in a ftate 
 of preparation againft the poflibility of that 
 mifchief which it was in his power to do us, 
 and w^hich opportunity might tempt him to 
 employ. 
 
 . .. Thit 
 
 1, 
 
m 
 h 
 
 »34 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. 
 
 |VNI. 
 
 ♦ ' 1 
 
 
 ' 1*1 1' 
 
 This vigilance on our part, which was 
 confidered by the chief as diftruft in his 
 friend(hip, gave him great offence, and oc- 
 cafioned a (hort coolnefs between us. — On 
 Saturday si the 2ift Wicananilh obferved that whenever 
 he paid us a vifit, the great cabin was de- 
 corated with arms, and that feveral blun- 
 derbuffes, &c. were placed on the deck ; 
 and not only left the (hip in great anger, 
 but refufed to trade with us himfelf, and 
 forbade his people from bringing us any fup- 
 plies of fi(h or vegetables. — It was not, how- 
 ever, by any means, our intereft that things 
 ihould remain in this unpleafant, as well 
 as inconvenient fituation ; it was therefore 
 thought prudent to pay him a vifit of peace 
 Stodayaz on the following day ; when, by the conci- 
 liating prefent of a fword, with a brafs 
 handle, and a large copper di(h, the treaty 
 of friendfliip was renewed ; and this reftora- 
 tion of good- humour was confirmed by a 
 prefent of five beautiful otter ikins, a fat 
 doe, and a fupply of fifh for the crew. The 
 gcnerofity, as well as friendly conduct of 
 the chief, on this occafion, feemed to demand 
 , an cxtr.iordinary exertion of acknowledgment 
 on ours ; and we made hun happy beyond 
 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 *3S 
 
 cxpreffion, by adding to his regalia a plftol 1788. 
 and two charges of powder ; a prefent which J""** 
 he had long folicited. Indeed, the ufe of 
 fire-arms was known to this tribe previous 
 to our arrival among them. — When the Re- 
 folution and the DlTcovery firfl entered King 
 George*s Sound, Wlcananifli happened to be 
 there, on a vifit to Maquilla, and then ac- 
 quired this unfufpefted branch of know- 
 ledge. 
 
 On the 28th, we obferved that the whole 
 village removed from their clofe vicinity to 
 the fea, into the inner port, with the fame 
 eafy transfer which we had obferved on a 
 funilar occafion at Nootka, and took up 
 their new pofition about a mile from the 
 (hip, on a point of land, juft within the 
 entrance of the harbour. 
 
 We were now formally made acquainted 
 by Wicanani(h, that a treaty was negotiating 
 between the chiefs Hanna and Detootche 
 and himfelf, in which we were to be in- 
 cluded ; the fubftance of which was, — that 
 all the furs then in their poflellion (hould be 
 fold to Wicananilh ; — that they Ihould live 
 ill peace and friendlhip with us ; — that all 
 the otter ikins procured after the completion 
 
 of 
 
 I 1 
 
 
/; 
 
 «36 
 
 T0YAGE5 TO THK 
 
 I 
 
 t| 
 
 Ih 
 
 1788. of the treaty, by either of the contracting 
 JwwB. chiefs, or their pebple, ftioiild be dlfpofed 
 of by thcmfelves, and that they were all to 
 have common accefs to the fhip, where a fair 
 and equitable market was to be opened for 
 them without diftin£Hon. 
 
 From the jcaloufy which we already knew 
 to fubliH: between thefe chiefs, we were per- 
 fedlly fatisfied, as we fmce had convincing 
 proofs, that, on our entering the territories 
 of Wicananifti, neither Hanna or Detootche 
 would be permitted to trade with, or even 
 pay us a viiit without having obtained a pre- 
 vious permiliion for that purpofe. We had 
 not therefore urged or encouraged an inter- 
 courfe, which, though it would have been 
 very advantageous to us, might, and moft 
 probably would have brought on a war be- 
 tween the refpev'^live fovereigns. This treaty, 
 therefore, gave us that extenfion of com- 
 merce which we fo much wift^ed, in the re- 
 gular courfe of friendly negotiation, and we 
 were not backward in forwarding the com- 
 pletion of it. 
 
 This treaty, which was managed with all 
 the addrefs of refined policy, could not be 
 arranged according to the propofed condi- 
 tions. 
 
 
 ..•^»-*' 
 
 '• .iK^imm^ 
 
 .•*~»M^ 
 
I I 
 
 on trailing 
 e difpofed 
 vere all to 
 here a fair 
 opened for 
 
 ;ady knew 
 were per- 
 onvincing 
 territories 
 [)etootche 
 I, or even 
 led a pre- 
 We liad 
 an inter- 
 na ve been 
 and moft 
 L war be- 
 lls treaty, 
 of com- 
 n the re- 
 I, and we 
 the com- 
 
 with all 
 I not be 
 d condi- 
 tions, 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 tions, without an intrufion on the treafiires 
 of Wicananilh, to which he knew not how 
 to fubmlt ; and this was no Icfs than a de- 
 mand of the copper tea-kettles he fo highly- 
 valued : but ac the ceiFion of them was made 
 the governing article of the negotiation, they 
 were at length, tliou^'-^h reluctantly, configned. 
 to Hanna and DLtootchc, who immediately 
 gave up ail the otter Iklns in their pofleflion. 
 But the chief did not long remain w^ithout 
 being fully fatisfied by us for the lofs of his 
 favourite veflels, by our prefenting him with 
 fuch articles as would make liim ample re- 
 paration, and which he, probably, had in 
 view when he made fuch a fiicrifice. We 
 therefore, amor;^ other things, feletSled fix 
 brafs hiked fwords, a pair of piftols, and a 
 mulket, with feveral charges of powder; 
 and we would even have replaced the trea- 
 fures 'with which his coffers had been fo 
 
 Si 
 
 lately enriched, but not a fmgle kettle was 
 to be found in the Ihip. This prefent was 
 fent on fhore, and, including the returns to 
 it, we had now procured an hundred and 
 fifty fine otter (kins. 
 
 At this time a canoe very unexpectedly 
 arrived from King George's Sound, with a 
 ' prefent 
 
 *3f 
 
 1788. 
 
 u 
 
 ■»' .-iSf^' 
 
I\ 
 
 ," 
 
 m 
 
 r^; 
 
 228 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. prcfent of fi(h from Maquilla, who hac! 
 JoMt. been made acquainted with all our motions, 
 from the time we left his territories. By 
 the fame opportunity we had the pleafurc 
 of hearing that our party were well, and 
 continued to make fpeedy advances towards 
 the conipletion of the veflbl : as one of the 
 people, who was rather more intelligent 
 than the reft, by meafuring a certain num- 
 ber of fpans, contrived to inform us of the 
 actual ftateof the little mamatlee^ as he called 
 her;— by which we underftood that her 
 floor-ti<i»bers were laid. 
 
 The objed of our touching at this port 
 being now fulfilled, by having procured all 
 the furs in the pofleffion of Wicananifti, with 
 fome confiderable fupplies of the fame kind 
 from Hanna and Detootche, we now pre- 
 pared to put to fea, to explore the coaft to the 
 Saturday 38 Southward of this port. On the 28th, the 
 Ihip was warped out of the inner harbour 
 over the bar, and, in the evening, the road- 
 fled was cleared ; when we purfued our 
 courle along (hore, with a light wefterly 
 breeze and fine weather. 
 
 The harbour of Wicananifh afFords very 
 fecure ftielter, with good anchorage, both. 
 
 ill 
 
) t 
 
 ( t 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 ill the roads and the inner port. An ar- 
 •chipelago of iflands feems to extend from 
 King George's Sound to this place, and ftill 
 further to the Southward. The channels 
 between thefe iflands are innumerable ; but 
 the nectflary occupations of the fliip would 
 not allow us time to fend out boats for the 
 purpofe of examining them : — as far, how- 
 ever, as our obfei'vation extended, we are 
 difpofed to believe that there is no channel 
 for (hips but that which we entered, and 
 which is an exceeding good one. 
 
 Thele iflands are covered thick with wood, 
 with but very few clear fpots, at leaft that 
 we could difcern. The foil is rich, pro- 
 ducing wild berries, and other fruit in great 
 abundance. The timber is of uncommon fize, 
 as well as beauty, and applicable to any pur- 
 pofe ; — we faw frequent groves, almoft every 
 tree of which was fit for mafts of any di- 
 menfions. Among a great variety of other 
 trees weobferved the red oak, the larch, the 
 cedar, and black and white fpruce fir. 
 
 In all our commercial tranfii6tions with 
 thefe people, we were, more or lefs, the 
 dupes of their cunning : and with fuch pe- 
 culiar artifice did they fometimes condud: 
 
 thena- 
 
 239 
 1788. 
 
 Juki. 
 
 ^jaftiei'**, ■ 
 
 ■ K •-«-)«**••■ 
 
 / 
 
I\ 
 
 . 
 
 
 t t 
 
 
 
 .l^j^.' *l 
 
 a4o 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. thcmfclves, that all the precaution we could 
 June, employ, was not fufficicnt to prevent ouf 
 being over- reached by them. The women, 
 in particular, would play us a thoufand 
 tricks, and treat the dil'covery of their fineffe 
 with an arch kind of phafiintry that baffjed 
 reproach. — They w^re very fuperior in per- 
 fonal charms to the ladies of Nootka, and 
 pofl'tfll'd a degree of modefly which is not 
 often to be found among the favage nations. 
 — No entreaty or temptation in our power 
 could prevail on them to venture on board 
 the (hip. But their beauty was deflroycd 
 by tlie filthy application of oil and ochre 
 and a general hiattcution to that cleanllnefa 
 which Europeans confider as efl'ential to fe- 
 male charms. Wc had an opportunity of 
 feeing an inftancc of their delicacy, which, 
 from its (ingularlty, may not be thought un- 
 worthy of a relation. Among other vi- 
 
 iitors of the fhip, \ye were one day very 
 much furprifed by the appearance of a canoe 
 paddled along by women, and containing 
 about twenty of that fex, without a fingle 
 perfon of the other. As we had never feeii 
 a canoe fo freighted before, it very much 
 engaged our attention ; aiid, while ws were 
 
 coil- 
 
I I 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 contemplating this company of ladies, a 
 young man leaped fuddenly among them 
 from another canoe ; at which they were fo 
 alarmed, that, though they were clad in 
 their bcft array, they all threw thcmfelves, 
 in an inflant, into the Tea, and fwam in a 
 body to the fliore. 
 
 The people of Wicananifli are alfo very 
 fuperior in point of induftry and adivity to 
 thofc of King George's Sound. At break of 
 day, without regard to tiie weather, the 
 village was always empty ; the raen were 
 employed in killing the whale, hunting the 
 fea otter, or catching fifli, and the women 
 were in the woods, gathering berries, or 
 traverling the fands and rocks in fearch of 
 Cray and (hell- fi(h. 
 
 During our flay here, many ftrangers ar- 
 rived from the Southern part of the coaft, 
 on purpofe to vifit us '. but they were not 
 only forbidden to trade, but to have any 
 communication with us : to which regula- 
 tion we thought it prudent to fubmit. Thefc 
 vifits were very beneficial to Wicananifh, 
 and raifed his importance with us, as we 
 found that all thefe people, coming from 
 various and diflant diftridts, were fubjedt 
 
 Vol. I. Q^ to 
 
 241 
 
 1788. 
 
 Jhne. 
 
 ■vs«i»r ■■•»»: 
 
 I J imi^mi .■il**'ft.>l ■ 
 

 n 
 
 :'r 
 
 HI 
 
 VOYAGSS.TO THB 
 
 1788. to his power. Befides the two villages al- 
 juNB. ready mentioned, he had f'everal other places 
 of refidence, to which he occafionally rc- 
 forted, according to the feafon of the year, 
 the calls of necelfity, or the invitations of 
 pleafure. In one of thefe places we reckoned 
 twenty-fix houfes, each of which was capable 
 of containing an hundred inhabitiints. In 
 fhort, fuch was the power and extenfive ter,- 
 ritory of Wicananifh, that it was very much 
 our interefl to conciliate his regard and cul- 
 tivate his friendfhip. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
. f / 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 24^ 
 
 I78S. 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Purfue our Courfe to the Southward along the 
 Coajl, — Numerous Villages Jeated on the 
 Shore. "^T^he Inhabitants come off to theSh'ip^ 
 and their Difappointment at our not coming 
 to an Anchor. — Dijhver the Straits of John 
 de Fuca. — I'heir Extent and Situaiion.'-^'Ta' 
 tootche comes on hoard* — Long-boat difpatched 
 to find an Jl^choragc^ and its Return. — Bad 
 Behaviourof the Natives. — Purfue our Cour J e 
 along the Coaft.-^Short Account of the Straits 
 cfjohn de Fuca, — IJland ofTatootche pajfed, 
 Pafs numerous Villages. — Dangerous Coajl, 
 — Violence of the South Raft Storms. — Cape 
 Flattery, — Village of Clqffet. — Ship enters the i 
 Bay of ^4ccnhithe. — Savage Appearance of 
 the Place,-^ See the Village of ^eenuitett.-^ 
 DeJiruSiion IJle, — Danger of the Ship, &c, 
 
 Wl^ "ow left Wicananifli, and during 
 ^ ^ the night of the 28th we fleered 
 Eaft South Eaft, within three leagues of the 
 land; and. on the morning of the 29th, we Sunday a^ 
 found ourfelves a-bre:;ft of a large Sound, 
 
 0^2 from 
 
 'm-jk 
 
144 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. from whence w^ faw a number of canoes 
 
 Juke, coming out to meet MZ. 
 
 The canoes very foon paddled up to us, 
 and fome of the people came on board. They 
 ' informed us that there were fcveral vil- 
 lages in the Sound, but all under the jurlf- 
 didion of Wicananlfli.— As we had reafon 
 to believe that the chief had drawn all the 
 furs from this place, we determined to avail 
 ourfclves of the prefent favourable feafon, 
 to proceed to the Southward, and to call at 
 this place o!i our return. The natives em- 
 ( ployed their utmoft perfuafions to keep uif 
 fometime on their coaft, but on obferving 
 that the fliip was fleering its courfe beyond 
 their villages, they took their leave of us 
 with very evident marks of chagrin and dif- 
 appointment. 
 
 We purfued our courfe to the Eaft South 
 Eaft along the fliore, at the diflance of three 
 miles, having crolfed the mouth of the 
 Sound, which we obferved to be of no great 
 depth. At noon the latitude was 48° 39' 
 North, at which time we had a complete 
 view of an inlet, whofe entrance appeared 
 very extenfive, bearing Eaft South Eaft, 
 dlftant about fix leagues. We endeavoured 
 
 to. 
 
 ,:;3S^; 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 245 
 
 to keep In with the {here as much as poflible, 1788. 
 m order to have a perfedt view of the land. ^""*' 
 This was an objeft of particular anxiety, as 
 the part of the coaft along which we were 
 now failing, had not been feen by Captain 
 Cook ; and we knew of no other navigator 
 faid to have been this way, except Maurelle; 
 and his chart, which we now had on board, 
 convinced us that he had eitlier never {qqw 
 this part of the coaft, or that he had pur- 
 pofeJy mifreprefented it. 
 
 As we continued our courfe along the 
 land, we perceived frequent villages on the 
 Ihore, from whence we were viiiLed by ca- 
 noes filled with people, who in their per- * 
 
 fons and manners very much refembled thofe 
 of Port Cox. The different villages were in- 
 dividually anxious to keep the commerce of '{'■ 
 the (hip to themfelves, and that we fhould 
 come to an anchor off their refpeaive habi- 
 tations; but as the entire coaft was open to 
 the fea, even If we had been inclined to in- 
 dulge their requt ft, it would not have been 
 in our power. We, however, purchafed {q- 
 veral fea otter (kins of them, and proceeded 
 on our courfe. v '^^ 
 
 Qj 
 
 By 
 
 
 -L'^'^mm'- 
 
 TtS^i^^iiii^'-*-—. ^-j 
 
 -•— **wmiiiMmiiiiii|iii ' 
 
246 
 
 1788. 
 
 JUNl. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE , 
 
 By three o'clock in the afternoon, we 
 arrived at the entrance of the great inlet 
 already mentioned, which appeared to be 
 twelve or fourteen leagues broad. From the 
 maft-head it was obfe^ved to ftretch to the 
 Eafl by North, and a clear and unbounded 
 horizon was (ecu m this diredion as far as 
 the eye could reach. We frequently found- 
 ed, but could procure no ground with one 
 hundred fathoms of line. About five o'clock 
 we hove to off a fmall idand, fituated about 
 two miles from the Southern land, that 
 formed the entrance of this ftrait, near which 
 we faw a very remarkable rock, that wore 
 the form of an obelilk, and flood at fome 
 diftance from the ifland. 
 
 In a very {hort time we were furrounded 
 by canoes filled with people of a much 
 more favage appearance than any we had hi- 
 therto feefl. They were principally cloathed 
 in fea otter Ikins, and had their faces'grimly 
 bedaubed with»oil and black and red ochre. 
 Their canoes were large, and held from 
 twenty to thirty men, who were armed with 
 bows, and arrows barbed with bone, that 
 was ragged at the points, and with large 
 fpegrs pointed with mufcle-fliell, 
 
 ' We 
 
 :k 
 
 -*- > 
 
M 
 
 IJ 
 
 ernoon, we 
 
 i 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 We now made fail to dole in with this 
 ifland, when we again hove to ahout two 
 miles from the (hore. The ifland itfelf ap- 
 pear'=;d to be a barren rock, almoft inac- 
 ceflible, and of no great extent ; but the 
 furface of it, as far as we could fee, was 
 covered with inhabitants, who were gazing 
 at the Ihip. We could by no means recon- 
 cile the wild and uncultivated appearance of 
 the place, with fuch a flourifhing ftate of 
 population. 
 
 The chief of this fpot, whofe name is 
 Tatootche, did us the favour of a villt, and 
 fo furly and forbidding a character we had 
 not yet feen. His face had no variety of 
 colour on it, like the reft of the people, but 
 was entirely black, and covered with a glit- 
 tering fand, which added to the favage fierce- 
 nefs of his appearance. He informed us that 
 the power of Wicananifh ended here, and 
 that we were now within the limits of his 
 government, which extended a confiderable 
 way to the Southward. — On receiving this 
 information, we made him a fmall prefent, 
 but he did not make us the leaft return, nor 
 could he be perfuaded to let his people trade 
 with us. We had, indeed, already received 
 
 Q^ fomc 
 
 347 
 1788. 
 
 JUMB. 
 
 
 ***?^'-;j:'!itt-iM*»( •. 
 
 :^«i. gj | | i g^ "^^ 
 
24^ 
 
 
 1788. 
 
 June. 
 
 •.A- VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 fome account of this chief from Wicananiili, 
 who advifed us to be on our guard againft 
 hi I J and liis people, as a fubtle and bar- 
 barous nation. 
 
 It was our defign, if poflihle, to caft an- 
 chor here, and, with this view, the long- 
 boat was manned and armed, and lent under 
 the direction of a proper officer, to iound 
 between the ifland and the main, in order to 
 find an anchoring- ground. The flrongefl in- 
 jun<5lions were given to avoid, ifpofTible, 
 any difpute with the natives, and a fmall 
 portion of trading articles was put in the 
 boat, in cafe the natives (hould be inclined 
 to. barter. 
 
 After the departure of the long-boat for 
 the fliore, which was followed by all the 
 canoes, we kept tacking occafionally near 
 the ifland, which we had now an opportu- 
 nity of examining with fome degree of mi- 
 nutencfs ; and, in whatever diie^lion we 
 beheld it, it appeared .to-be a barren rock, 
 furroundtd with reefs, on \y hich the fea broke 
 with great fury. We, -however, had fome 
 hope that, between it and the main, a place 
 of fhelter and fecurity might be found, as 
 the fituatiou would have been very con ve» 
 
 '% 
 
 \M \H> 
 
 
 rffy-.'* 
 
)l 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 24y 
 
 nient, not only for the purpofe of exploring 1788. 
 the ftrait, b u alfo for the extenfion of our Ju.^s. 
 particular commerce. 
 
 About feven i?i the evening, the long- 
 boat returned witliout bavingfound anyplace 
 fit for anchorage, and It viag procured but 
 very frw furs. The ijland, as the officer 
 informal us, was not of a deceitful appear- 
 ance ; it was a folid rock, covered with a little 
 verdure, and furroundcd by breakers in every 
 direction. A great crowd of canoes came 
 off to the boat, filled with armed people, 
 who behaved in a very diforderly manner; 
 feveral of whom jumped into the boat, and 
 took fomc trifluiii; articles away by force, 
 and then triumphed in their thrfr. Our 
 people were highly enraged at this conduct, 
 and fully difpofed to retaliate; — but the 
 prudence of the officer kept them quiet, who, 
 being fearful of fome unpleafant event, had 
 no fooner made the neceflary examination, 
 than he returned on board. 
 
 We were perfeftly convinced that Wica- 
 nanifh had drawn from this chief a con- 
 fiderable quantity of his furs, as we obferved 
 many of our articles about tbem, which 
 they could not have obtained but from Port 
 
 Cox 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 :^- 
 
 I 
 
 yl 
 
 ■t-'^ltmrm' 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 — "■-—- . ,.,. 
 
 ■MMI 
 
 
 '**^''^'**aM 
 
i5<> 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 ' I 
 
 !'■) 
 
 >f 
 
 4. 
 
 1788. ^^^ ^^ K^"S George's Sound. One of the 
 jcifH. natives in particular was in pofTeflion of a 
 complete fet of coat buttons, which was very 
 familiar to the memory of us all. 
 
 Being thus viifappointed in obtaining an 
 harbour here, we continued our courle to 
 the Southward, and examined the coaft with 
 great attention, in expectation of fioding a 
 place of fecurity, from whence our boats 
 would be enabled not only to examine this 
 ftrait, but other confiderable portions of the 
 ' coaft. With this view we made fail about 
 
 eight in the evening, and ftood along the 
 fhore, with pleafant and moderate weather. 
 ^ The ftrongeft curiofity impelled us to en- 
 ter this ilrait, which we (hall call by the 
 name of its original difcoverer, John De 
 Fuca. * 
 
 Some accounts of the ftraits of John de 
 Fuca are handed down to us from the very 
 rcfpe(Slable authority of Hakluyt and Pur- 
 chas : the former of whom records the opi- 
 nion w'nch the minifters of Qiieen I'liza- 
 beth entertained of its importance. We 
 had now ocular demonftration of its exift- 
 ence, — and we are perCuaded, that if Cap- 
 tain Cook had feen this ftrait, he would 
 
 have 
 
 it' 
 
 \ : 
 
 ■^ / 
 
 "^■■ "Yr :; :"M^""'p'> ^„^T.iSijf .(,'.'» t^ija« v < J li( g- '«' ^*m- ■ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^Ct 
 
 have thought it worthy of farther exami- 1788. 
 nation. — ^Thc circumftances which put it J""*- 
 out of our power to gratify the ardent defire 
 we poffefled of executing fuch a defign, will 
 be faithfully related, as we purfue the nar- 
 rative of the voyage.— A more particular 
 detail of this remarkable inlet may already 
 have been favoured by the reader's attention, 
 in the introdu<5lo memoir which treats of • 
 the yet probable exiflencc of a North Weft 
 paffage. 
 
 In the morning of the 30th of June, we^oo'^^yj* 
 had made no great progrefs from the land, 
 as it was calm during the greater part of 
 the night. — The ifland of Tatootche bore 
 nearly South Eaft, diftant only three leagues. 
 About ten o'clock a great number of canoes 
 came from the ifland, in which there could 
 not be lefs than four hundred men, among 
 whom we obferved the chief himfelf. They 
 amufed themfelves in paddling round the 
 (hip, every part of which, but particularly 
 the head, they feemed to behold with ex- 
 treme admiration : indeed, it is more than 
 probable that the greateft part of them had 
 never feen fuch a veflei before. We had 
 been already fo much difpleafed by the con- 
 
 dua 
 
 
 I 
 
 '■«-***!!il*! 
 
( 
 
 i 
 
 
 t*'4 
 
 V 
 
 I; 
 
 
 Mf 
 
 « K 
 
 
 ^5* 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. du6t of the chief, that we did not think 
 juNi. proper to invite him on board. The party, 
 however, gave us a fong, which did not 
 differ much from that we heard in King 
 George's Sound. But offended as we might 
 be with the people, we could not but be 
 charmed by their mufic. Situated as we 
 were^ on a wild and unfrequented coaft, in 
 a diftant corner of the globe, far removed 
 from all thofe friends, connections, and 
 circumftances which form the charm and 
 rr ' ' comfort of life, and taking our courfe, as 
 it were, through a folitary ocean ; in fuch a 
 fituation the fmiple melody of nature, pro- 
 ceeding in perfect unlfon and exa6l mcafur^ 
 from four hundred voices, found its way to 
 our hearts, and at the (lune moment awa- 
 kened and bccahncd the painful thought. 
 
 About noon, a gentle breeze fprung up, 
 when we continued our courfe to the South- 
 ward along the fliore, at about the diftance 
 of three miles, and the natives of Tatootcfie 
 returned to their ifland. As we fteered 
 onwards, canoes continually came off from 
 the villages, which we obferved from time 
 to time, on the high banks clofe to the 
 ' fea. The people in the different boats invi- 
 ■ ■.■'.:-' ' .^ ted 
 
 P : ; 
 
 , .^..^._3«j,iH«jja*D»*aor«. w,Mi*aB..«jfspr'.»-« si- . — 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMKRICA. 
 
 ted US in the mod earneft manner, to (leer 
 in for their refpedlive villages ; hut no means 
 we employed, and we took fome pains to 
 cfFe<5l it, could prevail on any of them to 
 venture on board the (hip. 
 
 The appearance of the land was wild in 
 the extreme, — immenfe forefls covered the 
 whole of it within our fight, down to the 
 very beach, which was lofty and cragged, 
 and againft which the fea dalhed with fear- 
 ful rage. Tiie fliore was lined with rocks 
 and rocky iflets, nor could we perceive any 
 bay or inlet that feemed to proniife the leaft 
 fecurity to the fmalleft vcflel : and unlefs 
 there were fome narrow coves, which were 
 imperceptible to us, we knew not how the 
 natives could find a flicker, even for their 
 canoes; yet the villages we faw were neither 
 inconfiderable in extent or in number. As 
 we fteered along, the force of Southerly 
 ftorms was evident to every eye ; large and 
 extenfive woods being laid flat by their pow- 
 er, the branches forming one long line to 
 the North Weft, intermingled with roots 
 of innumerable trees, which had been torn 
 from their beds, and helped to mark the 
 furious courfe of thefe tempefts ; whofe 
 
 violence 
 
 . 253 
 1788. 
 
 J UN' 4. 
 
 I) 
 
 fS 
 
 \ ■ 
 
 i ■ 
 
 ./ 
 
 
 iiiTiirH 
 
^( 
 
 i 
 
 11* 
 
 
 \ 
 
 ''.'/ 
 
 
 mi\ 
 
 /IT' 
 
 «54 
 
 1788. 
 
 JVNI. 
 
 'voyages to the 
 
 violence may be conceived, when we reflect 
 on the great extent of ocean over which 
 they blow, without a fingle objedl to impede 
 their progrefs or break their violence. 
 
 About feven in the evening, we had a dif- 
 tant fight of Cape Flattery, fo named, as it 
 was firft feen, by Captain Cook. It bore 
 South Eaft half Eaft, at the diftance of fix 
 leagues. This head- land is laid down in 
 the latitude of 48" 5' North, and longitude 
 235® 3' Eaft of Greenwich. — In our accounts 
 there was a very Httle difference, but we 
 are moft willing to place the error on our 
 fide. VVe had alfo a near view of the vil* 
 lage of Claflet, which is fituated on an 
 high and fteep rock clofe to the fea. — 
 Though this place appeared to be of con- 
 fiderable extent, one canoe only came off to 
 us, containing thirty men clad in fkins of 
 the fea otter. 
 
 The coaft from Cape Flattery feemed now 
 to trend entirely to the Southward ; nor 
 could we perceive any opening or inlet what- 
 ever, that promifed to afford us a place of 
 (helter. As it was ouf defiorn to make a 
 particular examination of this coaft, the 
 fliip was hove to at funfet, for the night. 
 
 5 This 
 
 'v 
 
 \ 
 
 . t 
 
 ■■«A*V 
 
II 
 
 I t 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 This part of the coaft was lined with rocks, 
 and feveral breakers ran off ClaiTet, at about 
 the diflance of half a mile. 
 
 At day-break, we refumed our courfe. 
 Cape Flattery bearing North North Weft, 
 having been drifted in the night to the South- 
 ward. The weather bore a very unfettled 
 appearance, and it blew ftrong from the Weft 
 South Weft, which was nearly on the (hore. 
 At feven, the bay of Queenhithe opened to 
 our view, which we entered with all thofe 
 unpleafing fenfations which may be fuppofed 
 to arife from the reflection, that we were 
 approaching the place where, and the people 
 by whom, the crew of the boat belonging 
 to the Imperial Eagle were maflacred. 
 
 As we fteered along the fliore, we ob- 
 ferved the fmall river and ifland of Queen- 
 hithe : but it became, on a fudden, fo thick 
 and gloomy, that the land, which was at 
 about four miles diftance from us, was 
 fcarcely difcernible. We faw neither canoes 
 or inhabitants, and an awful filence reigned 
 around us-. But though the village of Qiieen- 
 hithe was obfcured from our view, we could 
 very plainly difcern the town of Queenui- 
 tett, which is diftant from it about feven 
 
 or 
 
 255 
 
 I788, 
 
 July. 
 
 'luelday & 
 
 • • ^i9M* 
 
 
a. 
 
 V 
 
 \ ■/! 
 
 156 
 
 1788. 
 
 JULV. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 or eight miles. It Is (Ituatcd on an high 
 perpendicular rock, and is joined by a nar- 
 row and impregnahle caufcway, twenty feet 
 in height, to the main land, which is aii 
 entire tbrcft. With our glafles we obferved 
 a multitude of houfes fcattered over the face 
 of the rock. As we advanced, Deftruftion 
 Ifland was fecn at the diftance of about a 
 mile, fituatcd in the middle of tlie bay, and 
 diftant from the main land about two miles: 
 it is low and flat, and without a fingle tree ; 
 it however prefented us the rare and plea* 
 fant fight of a confiderable fpacc covered 
 with verdure ; and appeared to be furrounded 
 by breakers, on which an heavy fea rolled, 
 occafioned by the South Weft wind. In 
 this pofition we had ten fathoms over a 
 muddy bottom, 
 
 About eleven o'clock the wind veered to 
 the South Weft, wliich brought thick wea- 
 ther and rain, and we found ourftlvcs com- 
 pletely embayed, — a fituation we fliould very 
 gladly have avoided. An heavy fwell al- 
 ready rolled into the bay, which promifed to 
 prevent us very effectually from coming to 
 anchor, particularly if it blew from the 
 South Weft quarter, being diredlly on the 
 
 land. 
 
 V 
 
 i ( 
 
 ■**- 
 
 "j-f-"- "■^1 . -■ — *"» r 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 257 
 
 i veered to 
 
 land, which to the Southward was in fuch i-^gg, 
 a diredlion, that a South Eaft courfe would july. 
 not weather any part of it; nor, on the other 
 tack, could we hope to weather the Wefter- 
 \y land, on account of the great Weikrly 
 
 Avrll. 
 
 In this fituatlon we flood, as the better 
 tack, to the South South Eaft, until noon ; 
 when, being within half a mile of the flkO'-e, 
 we were obliged to tack, and ftavd to th*? 
 Weft North Weft : our iourAiags were fif' 
 teen and eight fathoms clofc to the land, 
 which was covered with wood re the wj.ier's 
 edge. We remarked, how-vcr, that the 
 beach was not very fteep, nnd here a:.id theic 
 we oblerved fome bare and faudy pafohes. 
 
 We now kept under a prefs of fail, Jis ic 
 blew very ftrong ; nor dared we even to taka 
 in a reef of the top-fail ; befidefi, the weather 
 was fo thick, that we could not fee a mile 
 a-head of the (hip. We, howevejr, imagined 
 that we fliould be able to weather Deftruc- 
 tion Ifland, and continued under this croud 
 of fail to avoid the danger before us ; when, 
 at one o'clock, it cleared up for a moroent, 
 and we faw the ifland a poirt under our lee- 
 VoL. I. 8L bow, 
 
 ^k. 
 
 -J?^iW3»- 
 
2^8 
 
 'S 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 hi 
 
 1783. bow, at: the dlflance of a mile and an half, 
 juLv. an heavy fea drifting us fail m with the 
 Ihore. 
 
 I'liere was now nothing to be done, but 
 . to call anchor, which we prepared to do 
 in the wildcft place we ever beheld, — and 
 where we were morally certain our anchors 
 , could not hold, though the bottom was mud, 
 
 from the ftrong tumbhng in of an heavy fea. 
 In this fituation, — the diftrefs of which 
 was not a little enhanced by the reflexion 
 that we were on a fliore whofe barbarity 
 our countrymen had already experienced, — 
 ten minutes muft have decided our fate : 
 vvlien providentially the wind, on a fudden, 
 veered to the South South Eaft, which 
 enabled us to tack and fleer off the (hore 
 with a flowing fheet, and happy in the pro- 
 {ped: of procuring an offing before night ; — 
 for I believe there was not a perfon on 
 boaj'd the fhip who had not refledled on 
 the melancholy pofHbihty of his becoming 
 a vi(ftim to the cannibals of Queenhithe. 
 
 ^^m\ 
 
 ^\ 
 
 CHAP. 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Our Progre/s along the CoaJ}. — Di [cover ShoaU 
 water Bay, which is inaccejfible to ShipSi 
 ' — Natives come off. — T^heir honej} Deali^ig, 
 — Some y^ccount of them, — JVe ptirfue our 
 Courfe, — Deception Bay, — Difference he^ 
 tween the SpanifJ: Charts rf MaurcHi and the 
 real Situation of the Coaft. — Bctiulifid Ap* 
 pearance of the Country. — Paf ^lichfand 
 Bay and Cape Lo'.k-out. — Seeuhree remark* 
 able Rocks,— Clof our Progr if to the SjUth- 
 ward, — Future Plan of proceeding, - Know- 
 ledge gained of the Coaf. — Pkirls left unex' 
 ploredby Captain Cook now "ci filed. — Reafons 
 for returning to the Northzva*d. — Purfue 
 our Comfe to the North.— Strait rf jo'ri de 
 Fuca fen again. — Anchor in Port Effing' 
 ham. — A Defcription of it, ^c, — Marine 
 Animals feen^^c, 
 
 nr^ H E wretched fate of the people he- 
 longuig to the Imperial Eagle, evident- 
 ly predominated in the minds of our crew ; 
 and being on the very coaft where fuch an 
 ad of barbarity was committed, the infedi- 
 
 R 3 ous 
 
 * 259 
 17S8. 
 
 JOLY. 
 
 nm^fKiamemm- 
 
26o 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 
 ?0 , '■ 
 
 >m»': 
 
 M 
 
 J/ 
 
 1788. ous apprehenfion of a fimilar deftru£lion, 
 July, fpread generally amongfl: them. It was the 
 common fubjedl of their difcourfe, and had 
 fuch an influence on their fpirits, as to en- 
 danger the lofs of the (hip, in a manner 
 which will be related hereafter. 
 
 We continued {landing to fea all the 
 evening of the firfl: of July, when, at mid- 
 night, being of opinion that we had fuffi- 
 cient offing, we wore and flood in again for 
 the land. At one o'clock in the morning, 
 the wind veered to the Weft South Weft, 
 which encouraged us to hope for a fufficient 
 degree of favourable weather to continue 
 our examination of the coaft. 
 Wednefdisyi Qn the moming of the 2d, at feven 
 o'clock, we again faw the land bearing Eaft, 
 at the diftance of feven leagues, which we 
 judged to be a little to the Southward and 
 Eaft ward of Queen hithe. This land was 
 very remarkable from its having the appear- 
 ance of a faddle, and that part of it obtained 
 the name of Saddle Hill. We computed it 
 . to be in the latitude of 46° 30' North, and 
 longitude of 235° 20' Eaft of Greenwich. 
 , We ftood to clofe in with it, when it appear- 
 ed to be the Southern moft point we had feen 
 
 the 
 
1 1 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA'. 
 
 261 
 
 the preceding day f'-om Deftru6lion Ifland. 1788. 
 The wind veered again to the South South Jwly. 
 Eaft, and at once damped our hopes of fa- 
 vourable weather. Heavy rain with a thick 
 fog fucceeded, which obli£ed us to tack and 
 fland again to fea. 
 
 The bad weather continued all this day, 
 with an heavy fea from the Weftward, that 
 endangered the long boat, which we had 
 towed aftern ever lince our departure from 
 King George's Sound. It was, therefore, 
 impoffible for us to encounter the land with- 
 out running into extreme danger. Belides, 
 the moon was now near its change, a period 
 which, according to our obfervations, never 
 failed iij thefe feas to bring bad weather 
 along with it. We therefore carried a prefs 
 of fail, to obtain a good diftance from the 
 land ; which was, at this time, an obje<St 
 of no common confequence. 
 
 On the 3d at noon, we had a glimpfe of Thiufday 3 
 the fun, and the latitude was 47° 46' North, 
 The wind fhifted to the South Weft, on 
 which we tacked and ftood to the South 
 South Eaft, immediately in for the land. 
 We now were at about the diftance of twenty 
 leagues from Cape Flattery. 
 
 R 3 During 
 
 »^ 
 
 '11 ■["•^iitiW'-'r' — ' 
 
 !T-^tifSsTKT:^ 
 
 rm ,0kM m itm n%> i-"*^-* 
 
■ 26z 
 
 1788. 
 
 July. 
 
 Friday 4 
 
 Sanirda- 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 During the night the weather was mode- 
 rate and clear, and on the 4th the wind 
 lliifted to the South Eaft ; when we agam 
 tacked and flood to the Eaft North Eaft, 
 in order to near the land. We ftood thus 
 till fix o'clock in the evening, when the 
 land was {een bearing from North to North 
 Eaft. In the Northern quarter it was of a 
 great height, and covered with fnow. This 
 mountain, from its /ery confpicuous fitu- 
 ation, and in^menfe height, obtained the 
 name of Mount Olympus. We computed 
 it to be in the latitude of 47° 10' North, and 
 longitude 235° Eaft of Greenwich, Jn the 
 Korth Eaft It ftretched itfelf cut to a print, 
 Vi'fiich we judged to be in the latitude of 
 47° 20' North. We kept ftanding hi for 
 the land, during the night, with a light 
 brerze from the South Eaft ; and at fun- rife 
 on the 5th, it borv.- from North l>y Weft, to 
 Eaft by North, ourdiftance off' fhore being 
 
 I : lej'iues : fo that hi the nigRt we had been 
 afi. c'tcd by a confid' rable current, which 
 had Lt us from 'Xiie land. . : . -. 
 
 . ,At noon thv jaritude^was 47® i' North, 
 and the lofty mountains feen on the prt- 
 cediiig (}u\y, Lore Eafl North Eaft, diftant 
 
 " .: ,. • r : feven 
 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 263 
 
 feven leagues. — Our diftance might he four 1*^88. 
 leagues from the fliore, which appeared to July. 
 run in the direftlon of Eaft South Eafl, 
 and Weft North Weft, and there appeared 
 to he a large found or openhig in this di- 
 redlion. 
 
 By two o'clock, we were within two miles 
 of the (hore, along which we failed, which 
 appeared to be a perfe6t foreft, without the 
 veftigeof an habitation. The land was low 
 and flat, and our foundings were from fif- 
 teen to twenty fathoms over an hard land. 
 As we were fteerhig for the low point which 
 formed one part of the entrance into the 
 bay or found, we flioaled our water gradually 
 to fix fathoms, when breakers were fcen to 
 extend in a diredion quite acrofs it, fo that 
 it appeared to be inaccefllble to fnips. We 
 immediately hauled off the fliore until we ' ' 
 deepened our water to {Ixteen fathoms. Tliis ' 
 point obtained the name of Low Point, and 
 the bay that of Shoal-water Bay ; and an 
 head-Lmd that was high and bluiF, v/hich 
 formed the other entrance, was alio named 
 Cape Shoal water. The head-land wc judg- 
 ed to be in the latitude of 46" 4y' North, • 
 
 .R 4 and 
 
 ru i p iwi I i i i.«w..-,.i— . 
 
264 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 m 
 
 .it 
 
 1788. and the longitude 235° 11' Eaft of Green- 
 
 juLY. wich. 
 
 The diftance from Low Point to Cape 
 Shoal-water was too great to admit of an 
 obfervation in our prefent fituation. The 
 fhoals ftill appeared to run from Ihore to 
 fliore ; but when we were about midway, 
 we again bore up near them, in order to 
 difcover if there might not be a channel 
 near the cape : we accordingly fleered in for 
 the mouth of the bay, when we flioaled our 
 water to eight fathoms. At this time the 
 breakers were not more than three miles 
 from us, and appeared to extend to Cape 
 Shoal- water, when it was thought prudent 
 again to haul off. From the maft-head it 
 was obferved that this bay extended a con- 
 Uderable way inland, fp reading into fever al 
 arms or branches to the Northward and 
 Eaft ward. The back of it was bounded by 
 high and mountainous land, which was at 
 a great di ft an ce from us. A narrow entrance 
 appeared to the North Weft, but it was too 
 remote for us to difcover, even withglaflbs, 
 whether it was a river or low land. 
 
 We had concluded that this wild and de- 
 folate fhore was without inhabitants, but 
 
 this 
 
 
 -,*^.,*1- 
 
fl: of Green- 
 
 int to Cape 
 admit of an 
 ation. The 
 Dm Ihore to 
 )ut midway, 
 in order to 
 i a channel 
 fleered in for 
 ; fhoaJed our 
 his time the 
 three miles 
 nd to Cape 
 gilt prudent 
 nnft-head it 
 tided a con- 
 into feveral 
 thward and 
 bounded by 
 lich was at 
 ow entrance 
 t it was too 
 ^ith glafles, 
 nd. 
 
 i^ild and de- 
 bitants, but 
 this 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 this opinion proved to be erroneous ; for a 
 canoe now came off to us from the point, 
 with a man and boy. On their approach to 
 the fliip, they held up two fea otter (kins; 
 we therefore hove to, when they came along- 
 fide and took hold of a rope, but could not 
 be perfuaded to come on board. We then 
 faftened feveral trifling articles to a cord, 
 and threw them over the fide of the (hip, 
 when they were inftantly and eagerly feized 
 by the boy, and delivered by him to the 
 man ; who did not hefitate a moment to tie 
 the two otter Ikins to the cord, and waved 
 his hand as a fign for us to take them on 
 board, — which was accordingly done, and 
 an additional prefent immediately conveyed 
 to him in the (iime manner as the former. 
 
 Thefe ftrangers appeared to be highly de- 
 lighted with their unexpected treafurc, and 
 feemed, at firft, to be wholly abforbed in 
 their attention to the articles which com- 
 pofed it ; but their curio(ity was in a (hort 
 time entirely transferred to the (hip, and 
 their eyes ran over every part of it with 
 a moft rapid traniition, while their actions 
 exprelTed fuch extreme admiration and afto- 
 ni(hment, as gaVe us every reafon to con- 
 clude 
 
 z6$ 
 
 1788, 
 
 July. 
 
 ■i 
 
 K 
 
 '\ 
 
 
 
 w 
 
 
 
 '. J' 
 
s66 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 I' 'F! 1 
 
 17S8. clnde that this was the firft time they had 
 July, ever been gratified with the fight of fuch an 
 object. 
 
 We endeavoured to make oiirfelves intel- 
 ligible, by addrefling them in the language 
 ' ' of King George's Sound, which we had 
 found to prevail from thence to the diftrifl 
 of Tatootclie ; but they did not comprehend 
 a word we uttered, and replied to us in a 
 language which bore not the leaft refem- 
 blance or affinity, as far as we could form a 
 judgment, to any tongue that we had heard 
 on the coaft of America. r?i.r 
 
 On a particular infpeflion, we obferved 
 that the tafhion of their canoes differed from 
 thofc of their more Northern neighbours. 
 In their perfons and cloaths, indeed, they 
 refembled the people of Nootka ; but we 
 ' obferved no ornaments about them which 
 could lead us to fnppofe that they had ever 
 before communicated wifih^Europeans : ne- 
 verthelefs, their firft holding up the otter 
 Ikins, and the manner in which they con- 
 duced themfelves afterwards, plainly proves 
 that they had an idea of trade : indeed, it is 
 more than probable that fome of the natives 
 pf Tatootche's diflrid may have occafionally 
 , > ■. roamed 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 
 
 26*^ 
 
 roamed thus tar, and communicated the 1788. 
 intelligence of fTrangers arriving in (hips to Jw^t. 
 trade for furs. But there is every reafon to 
 believe that thcfe people are of a different 
 and diftindl nation from thofe of King 
 George's Sound, Port Cox, and Tatootche ; 
 nor is it improbable but that this very fpot 
 might be the extreme boundary of their dif- 
 tri6t on the North. In this perfualion we 
 became doubly anxious to find fome place 
 of (helter, — fome harbour or port where the 
 (hip could remain in fafety, while the boats 
 j might be employed in exploring this part of 
 the coaft. 
 
 During the time we had been lying to for 
 thefe natives, the fhip had drifted bodily 
 down to the (hoals, which obliged us to 
 make fail, — when the canoe paddled into , * 
 the bay. It was our wi{h to have fent the 
 long-boat to found near the flioals, in order 
 to difcover if there was any ciiannel ; but 
 the -weather was fo cloudy, and, altogether, 
 had fo unfettled an appearance, that we were 
 difcouraged from executing fuch a dellgn. — • 
 Nothing, therefore, was left for us but to 
 coaft it along the fliore, and endeavour to 
 ...,.., find' ■ - 
 
 V 
 
 
 i'l 
 
 If 
 
 
 "«%-'- 
 
268 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 M ar 
 
 \i 
 
 J 
 
 1788, find feme place where the (hip might be 
 
 July, brought to a fecure anchorage. 
 
 We therefore conthiucd our courfe ; and, 
 by feven o'clock, we were at no great cHftance 
 from Cape Shoal-water, when we again had 
 a clear and diftin6l view of the bay and 
 flioals. — Our depth of water was fixteeu 
 fathoms, over a fandy bottom, and the land 
 extended to the Eaft South Eaft, from the 
 Cape, from which we were diftant three 
 , leagues. The land to the Southward made 
 like iflands, but that circumf^ance was at- 
 tributed to the fog, which now came thick 
 upon us. As night came on the fliip was 
 hauled off (hore and hove to, to await the 
 return of day- light. 
 
 The morning of the 6th was Very' un- 
 favourable to the buiinefs of making dif- 
 coveries ; -the wind veered to the North, 
 and blew very ftrong,. with a great fea ; — 
 Cape Shoal- water bore Eaft by North fix 
 leagues ; and the land was every where co- 
 vered with a thick mift ; we therefore did 
 not bear up till nine o'clock, when the 
 mift cleared from off the land.— As we ap- 
 proached it our foundings were very regu- 
 lar, from forty to fixteen fathoms, over a 
 . , I fandy 
 
 Sunday 6 
 
 ■'^•'•'ii 
 
 
* I 
 
 ) ^ 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 259 
 
 IS, over a 
 
 fandy bottom. — At half paft ten, being with- 1 788, 
 in three leagues of Cape Shoal-water, we Jw^t. 
 had a pcrfed view of it ; and, with the 
 glaffes, we traced the line of coaft to the 
 Southward, which prefented no opening 
 that promifed aiiy thing like an harbour.— 
 An high, bluff promontory bore off us South 
 Eaft, at the diftance of only four leagues, 
 for which we fteercd to double, with the 
 hope that between it and Cape Shoal-water, 
 we (hould find feme fort of harbour.— 
 We now difcovercd didant land beyond this 
 promontory, and we pleafed ourfelves with 
 the expe<ftation of its being Cape Saint Roc 
 of the Spaniards, near which they are faid to 
 have found a good port. . 
 
 By half paft eleven we doubled this cape, 
 at the diftance of three miles, having a j 
 clear and perfed view of the Ihore in every 
 part, on which we did not difcern a living 
 creature, or the leaft trace of habitable life. 
 A prodigious Eafterly fwell rolled on the 
 (hore, and the foundings gradually decreafed 
 from forty to fixteen fathoms, over a hard, 
 fandy bottom. After we had grounded the 
 promontory, a large bay, as we had ima- 
 gined, opened to our view, that bore a very 
 
 pro- 
 
 
 i {■ 
 
 \ ,. i\ 
 
 I: '/I 
 
 ^•msfMimmiK 
 
^7© 
 
 VOYAGES TO THfi 
 
 
 \9\ 
 
 ll 
 
 •^ 
 
 1783. promJUng nppearance, and into which we 
 jw4r. ftccred witlj every encouraging expetSlation. 
 The lilgh land that formed the boundaries 
 of the bny, was at a great diftance, and a 
 flat level country occupied the intervening 
 fpacc : the bay itfelf took rather a wcfterly 
 dirc«5llon. As we fteercd in, the water 
 Ihoaled to nine, eight, and feven fathoms, 
 wlien breakers were fcen from the deck, 
 right a-head ; and, from the maft-head, they 
 were obferved to extend acrofs the bay.— 
 We therefore hauled out, and directed our 
 courfe to the oppofite fhore, to fee if there 
 was any chaimel, or if we could difcover any 
 port. 
 
 'I'he name of Cape Difappointment was 
 given to the promontory, and the bay ob- 
 tained the title of Deception Bay. By an 
 indltfcrcnt meridian obfervation, it lies in 
 the latitude of 46^ 10' North, and in the 
 computed longitude of 235" 34' Eaft. We 
 can now with fafqty alTert, that no fuch 
 river as that of Saint Roc exifts, as laid 
 down in the Spanifli charts : to thofe of 
 Alaurelle we made continual reference, but 
 without deriving any information or alfift- 
 aace from them. 
 
 3 ^^^ 
 
 ■| 
 
 ''**■** ;^»r-~ " '''*''—''»«^** «*j«a.'ffl'»MWf«i n ■"*'"■* 
 
I I 
 
 ^•ORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 271 
 
 We now reached the oppofite fulc of the 1788, 
 bay, where difappouitment conthiued to ac- Jui-r. 
 company us ; and being almofl certain that 
 there we fliould obtain no place of /heltcr for 
 the rtiip, we bore up for a diltnnt head-hmd, 
 keeping our courfe within two miles of the 
 fhore. . • 
 
 Tiie face of the country, however, alTu- 
 med a very different appearance from that 
 of the Northern coaft. Many beautiful 
 fpots, covered with the finefl verdure, fo- 
 licitcd our attention ; and the land rofe in 
 a very gradual afcent to the difkant moun- 
 tains, Ikirted by a white, (lindy bench down 
 to the lea. As we failed along, fpacious 
 lawns and hanging-woods everywhere met 
 the delighted eye, — but not an human bchig 
 appeared to inhabit the fertile country of 
 New Albion. 
 
 As we thus purfued our courfe along the 
 ihore, obferving every part of it with the 
 mod minute attention, a large opening ap- 
 peared a-head, which once more animated 
 our hopes, and formed a new fource of dlf- 
 appointment. In the offing it blew very 
 ftrong, and a great wefterly fwell tumbled . 
 in on the land. By feven o'clock we were 
 
 a-breaft 
 
 
 'A 
 
 ■ n 
 
 'iRBttWpi-'XP*' 
 
%17 
 
 1788. 
 July. 
 
 VOYAGESTOTHE 
 
 a-brcaftof this opening, the mouth of which, 
 to our great mortification, was entirely 
 clofed by a low, fandy beach, nearly level 
 with the fea, which appeared to flow over 
 it, and form an extenfive back-water : — 
 beyond it an open champaign country ex- 
 tended to a confiderable diitance, where it 
 was confined by a boundary of lofty moun- 
 tains. 
 
 The bay was named by us Qiiickfand 
 Bay, and an adjoining headland Cape Gren- 
 ville ; — the diftant Southerly head-land, 
 we called Cape Look-out. This cape is 
 very high and bluff, and terminaces ab- 
 ruptly in the fea. At about the diflance 
 of two miles from it there rofe three large 
 rocks, which were very remarkable, from 
 the great refemblance they bore to each 
 other. — ^The middle one has an archway, 
 perforated, as it were, in its centre, through 
 which we very plainly difcovered the dif- 
 tant fea. — They more particularly attra<Sted 
 our notice, as we had not obferved between 
 King George's Sound and this place, any 
 rocks fo confpicuoufly fituated from the 
 land : —their diftance from each other might 
 
 be 
 
1 1. 
 
 17 
 
 uth of which, 
 was entirely 
 
 nearly level 
 
 to flow over 
 ack-water : — 
 
 country ex- 
 ice, where it 
 
 lofty moun- 
 
 is Quickfand 
 d Cape Gren- 
 y head-land, 
 This cape is 
 jrminrites ab- 
 
 the diftance 
 fe three large 
 rkable, from 
 3ore to each 
 an archway, 
 itre, through 
 red the dif- 
 irly attradled 
 
 ved between 
 s place, any 
 
 1 from the 
 
 other might 
 be 
 
 ^ North west coast of America. 
 
 be about a quarter of a mile, and we gave 
 them the name of tiie Three Brothers. 
 
 By eight in the evening we were within 
 three leagues of Cape Look-out, which we 
 judge to lie in the latitude of 45° 30' North, 
 and in the longitude of 235° 50' Eaft of 
 Greenwich. We were now convinced that 
 there was no opening betv.'een the Cape 
 and Quickfand Bay. 
 
 As we had met with nothing but dif- 
 couragement, we here gave up all further 
 purfuit, and clofed our progrcfs to the South- 
 ward : — we therefore hauled our wine', iu 
 order to proceed again to the Northward. 
 
 It was our intention to take our courfc to 
 the great bay or found Vv'hich \vc had paflcd 
 the day after our departure from Port Cox, 
 and from whence a large company of the 
 natives came off to us. This bay liad, in- 
 deed, been already vifitcd by the (hip Im- 
 perial Eagle, where we had found a fecure 
 anchorage : from thence wc propoCd to 
 fend the lonc'.-boar, in order to explore the 
 ft raits, and to afccrtain whether the inhabi- 
 tants were a people diftin^l from thofe of 
 Nootka Sound. 
 Vol. I. S We 
 
 273 
 
 1788. 
 
 July. 
 
2/4 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 i*-88, ^^e had now obtained no inconfiderable 
 July, knowledge of the coaft of America, from 
 King George's Sound to Cape Look-out : 
 that is, from the latitude of 45° 37' North, 
 to the latitude of 49° '2>i North. — We had 
 not only traced every part of a coaft which 
 unfavourable weather had prevented Captain 
 Cook from approaching, but had alfo afcer- 
 tained the real exiftence of the Strait of 
 John de Fuca, which now renewed its claim 
 to our attention. We moft anxioufly wifhed 
 to have continued our inquilitive courfe to 
 the Southward, as far, at leaft, as latitude 
 42°, where it is faid Captain Caxon found a 
 good harbour ; but the feafon was already fo 
 much advanced, that had we gone fo far to 
 the Southward, we (hould not have been 
 able to return to Kuig Cileorge's Sound be- 
 fore the equinodllal gales fet in ; — a feafon 
 to be dreadc^d on this coaft, more efpecially 
 when we knew of no harbour where we 
 could take refure an;:unft the violence of it : 
 Befides, v/e v/ere iniUienced by a very natural 
 anxiety concernhig the party we had left at 
 Nootka : — tl^-y might have been in want of 
 our afiiftance, and various circumftances 
 might iiave arifcn, v/hich would render our 
 
 return 
 
i I 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 return of importance to them, at leaft be- 
 fore the month of September : — Bcfides, if 
 we had purfued our courfe to the South- 
 ward, we fhould have been altogether pre- 
 vented from examining the ftrait ; as the 
 bad weather which we had every reafon to 
 believe we (hould experience on our return, 
 might, and in ail probability would, prolong 
 the courfe of it to the middle of Auguft. — 
 As it was, we feldom enjoyed a fucceflion 
 of three days without either fog or rain. 
 
 The equinodlial gales blow with great 
 fury on the coafl: of America, and generally 
 fet in from the loth to the 15th of Sep- 
 tember, We were therefore apprehenfive 
 that they might drive us off the coaft, and 
 force us, perhaps, to fteer to the Sandwich 
 Iflands, and, of courfe, to leave the party 
 at Nootka in a Htuation of difficulty and 
 danger. 
 
 Such were the reafons which determined 
 us to return to the North, and to keep King 
 George's Sound open, at all events, let tlie 
 Windsor weather be what they might. This 
 meafure was alfo eflentially ncceflhry, as it 
 was already agreed that on the 20th of S:."p- 
 tember one of the fliips (hould leave the 
 
 S 2 Anic- 
 
 27i 
 178S. 
 
 July. 
 
 \h 
 
 S 
 
 •« 
 
?i 
 
 I 
 
 m 
 
 
 j,«5 VOYAGESTOTHE 
 
 1 788. American coaft on her return to China ; but 
 July, before this part of our expedition could be 
 put in execution, the new veffel was to be 
 launched and equipped for fea, and near 
 three thoufand fathoms of cordage manu- 
 taiStured, — a bufinefs which would employ 
 a more numerous crew than our fhip con- 
 tained. 
 
 Monday 7 At fun-rife of the 7th, Cape Look-out was 
 fecn, bearing EaO. by South, at the diftance 
 of twelve leagues. Our latitude at noon was 
 45° 12' North, and the variation of the com- 
 pafs only 16" lo'Eaft. 
 Thurfday 10 It was the 1 0th of July before wc again 
 » made the land, when at noon we difcerned 
 the high land forming the Eaftern (hore in 
 the Straits of de Fuca ; and, at fun-fet, we 
 faw the Eafteriimoil: head-land of the large 
 found near Port Cox, which obtained from 
 us the name of Cape Beale : this head-land 
 bore North by Eafi:, dirtant ten leagues* — 
 The variation of the ccrnpafs was here iS** 30' 
 Eaft. 
 
 friday II On the iith^ in the morning, we w^ere 
 off the mouth of this found, which appeared 
 extenfive, but of no great depth. Several 
 iflands were placed nearly in the middle of 
 
 it. 
 
( < 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 277 
 
 it, which were rather high, and well wooded, 1788. 
 The long-boat was lent to find the anchor- July. 
 ing-ground, and, about eleven o'clock, (he 
 returned to pilot us into a fine fpacious 
 port, formed by a number of iflands, where 
 we anchored in eicht fathoms water, over 
 a muddy bottom, and fecurely fheltered from 
 wind and fea. A large number of natives 
 immediately came off in their canoes, and 
 brought abundance of fifh ; among v/hich 
 were falmon, trout, cray, and other (hell- 
 fifh, with plenty of wild berries and onions. 
 Thefe peopli^i belonged to a large village, 
 fltuated on the fummit of a very high hill. 
 This port we named Port Effingham, in ho- 
 nour of the noble Lord of that title. 
 
 On the 1 2th, the fails and running rigging Saturday la 
 were unbent, a party of waterers were fent 
 on fhore, and the reft of the crew were 
 employed about the ueceflary duty of the 
 fliip. 
 
 This found had been vifited by Captain 
 Barclay, of the Imperial Eagle, in the year 
 1787, who named it Barclay Sound. Tlie 
 found itfelf is very extenfive, and contains 
 feveral fcattered iflands, entirely covered 
 with wood. On the main land there are 
 
 S 
 
 ■^ 
 J 
 
 large 
 
 ^^■,Jil^~^ 
 
 „..— fe%^-»rf «*•<?«j»f*^.■■-C.'^';^i*' 
 
) 
 
 ^: 
 
 ^^ 
 
 278 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. large and populous villages, well watered 
 
 July, by rivulcts, where great numbers of falmou 
 
 are taken, which, when properly prepared, 
 
 conftitute a principal part of their winter's 
 
 food. < 
 
 . The port is fufficiently capacious to con- 
 tain an hundred fail of (hips, — and fo fortu- 
 nately (heltered as to fscure them from any 
 florm. — The anchorage is alfo good, being 
 a foft mud, and the watering place perfectly 
 convenient. 
 
 In our paflkge from Ci'pe Look-out to 
 Port Effingham, we faw numbers of fea ot- 
 ters playing in the water with their young 
 ones ; but at the fhip's approach they quick- 
 ly difappeared. Once or twice we pafled 
 within a few yards of fome of them, as they 
 were fleeping on their backs in the fea. — 
 At firft we took them for pieces of drift- 
 wood, till, on being awakened be the noife 
 .of the fliip, they iiidantly dived away. We 
 alfo faw many whales of the fpermaceti 
 kind, and feals without number, befides other 
 huge marine animals. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 ■ -g^rS!$>-^' 
 
 ''-U>i^j,_.^^ .#*- ■• 
 
 ^.-^......-..-. 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 279 
 
 178S. 
 
 JULV. 
 
 i 
 
 Take pojelfion of the Straits of de Fuca in the 
 "Name of the King of Great Britain. — Vifiled 
 by the Natives.— Pkafant Situation cf the 
 Ship. — Long-boat equipped and fent on an Ex- 
 pedition, — I'he ObjeSt of it. — Strangers re fort 
 to the Ship. — Anxiety on Account of the Long- 
 boat , which at length arrives. — Reafn of her 
 quick Return. — Conflict wiih the Natives of 
 the Straits of de Fuca, and the Confeiiuences 
 of it. — Valour of th'fe People. — T!he dan- 
 gerous Situation of the Boat and Crew, — . 
 Diftance advanced up the Straits of de Fuca. 
 ^^Pojtiion cf them. — Human Heads offered 
 to fale. — Damp throivn on the Spirits of the 
 Crew. — Prepare for Sea. — Leave Port Lf-- 
 fngham. — An Account of the Port and Sound, 
 — Progrefs of the new Fe/fel, tic. — Succejs. 
 in collecting Furs. — Attention of Maquilla^ 
 
 'T may not be improper to mention that 
 we took pofleflion of the ftralts of John 
 do Fuca, m the name of the King of Bri- 
 tain, with the forms that had been adopted 
 ^v '^receding navigators on fimilar occafions. 
 
 S 4 On 
 
 1 
 
Hi '\^ i^ 
 
 ¥m Ik f 
 
 mm 
 
 k1^ 
 
 1 9 
 
 
 280 
 
 1788. 
 
 JULV. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 On the 13th of July, a confiderable num« 
 ber of natives vifited the fhip in this fla- 
 tion, from whom we purchafed fur=i of va- 
 rious kinds. — liut it was obfcrvcd by us, 
 that they were not accompanied by their 
 chiefs, or indeed any perfon of authority 
 amongft them. They alfo brought us great 
 plenty of fuJmon, which, in dehcacy of fla- 
 vour, far exceeded that of Nootka Sound, 
 with large quantities of fliell-fifh, and the 
 rcfrefliing as well as falutary provifion of 
 wild onions, and fruits of their woods; 
 with which nature had kindly furniflied 
 every part of the coaft where we had any 
 communication with the natives of it. 
 
 It was now the height of fummer, the 
 weather was warm and pleafant ; and we 
 very fenfibly enjoyed the benign influence of 
 the delightful feafon. Not a fingle patch 
 of fnow was vifiblc on thefummits of the 
 lofty mountains which fiirroundedthe found. 
 We could not, therefore, but derive a moft 
 rcfrefhing fatisfidion from our temporary 
 r^'pofe in this caliTi and charming fituation. 
 
 We embraced the prefent favourable op- 
 portunity to difpatch tlie long boat, not only 
 to explore the flraits of de Fuca, but to pro- 
 
 <:ure. 
 
 4 
 
1 1 
 
 ; / 
 
 limmer, tlie 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 cure, if poflible, fome knowledge of the peo- 
 ple of Shoal water- Bay. She was, therefore, 
 properly equipped for the occafion, was man- 
 ned with thirteen of our people, and fur- 
 ni(hed with provifions for a month. The 
 command of her was given to Mr. Robert 
 Duffin, our firfl officer, to whom written 
 inftru6llons were delivered, by which he 
 was to govern himfelf in the conduct of this 
 little expedition. — On the 13th, the boat 
 departed on its voyage of difcovery. 
 
 The crew employed on this occafion, 
 added to the party we had fpared for the fer- 
 vice of King George's Sound, had fo di- 
 minished our (hip*'- company, that it be- 
 came abfolutely neceflary for us toputour- 
 felves in the beft poffible ftate of prepara- 
 tion, in cafe our prefent neighbours, who are 
 a numerous, bold, and powerful people, 
 fliould be tempted by a knowledge of our 
 weaknefs to make an attack. All 'the guns 
 were therefore mounted ; the arms got ready 
 for fervice, and orders ifl'ued that none of 
 the natives (hould, on any pretence whatever, 
 be fufFered to come on board the (hip. 
 
 Immediately after the departure of the 
 long-boat, a coafiderable number of canoes 
 
 3 from 
 
 .2i 
 
 ;.( 
 
 >i 
 
 1788. 
 July. 
 
 11 
 
 *^ :' 
 
 • 
 
 .,f, .... 
 
 • i 
 
282 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 \l' 
 
 4; 
 
 1788. from the Northward, came along- fide us, 
 July, fg^y^ if jjj^y^ Qf ^yhich contained lefs than 
 tliirty men, and many of them more, befides 
 ivomen and children. Among our vifitors 
 we recolle(5led the faces of feveral whom 
 we had already feen at Port Cox, of which 
 place they were inhabitants. The others 
 were natives of the Weflern (hore which 
 flretches down to the ftraits, and which 
 forms a part of the extenfive territories of 
 Wicananifli. That prince, it feemed, had 
 lately given a fplendid feaft to a large num- 
 ber of his principal fubjedls ; and from the 
 great quantity of thofe articles he had re- 
 ceived from us, which we now perceived 
 among them, there was every reafon to fup- 
 pole that he had added to the fplendour of 
 his banquet, by dividing his treafures among 
 thofe who had the honour of being invited 
 to it. 
 Satirdayao Nothing material occurred till the 20th: 
 the weather continued to be extremely fine, 
 and our communication with the natives was 
 on terms of reciprocal good underftanding. 
 They daily reforted to us with furs, fifli and 
 vegetables, and fometimes an occafionalpre- 
 fent of very fine venifon added its luxury to 
 
 the 
 
 
 
I ' 
 
 I I 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF ATMEPxICA. 
 
 283 
 
 f LY, 
 
 the common pljtity of our tabic. But In 1788. 
 our prefcnt (late of ina^flivlty, the fituation J"' 
 of the lon^';-boat was continually prcffing 
 home upon our minds with the hopes of fuc- 
 cefs, or the fears of calamity. The (^ivagc 
 nature of the people who inhabited the parts 
 which our friends were gone to explore, ope- 
 rated to alarm the one ; at the fame time 
 that our confidence in their (kill, courage, 
 and good conducl, animated the other. — 
 While, however, our imaginations were fol- 
 lowing them in their voyage, with the mofl: 
 affectionate folicltude, they were on the 
 verge of deftrudion, and threatened with 
 iharing the abhorrent fate of their country- 
 men who were devoured by the cannibals of 
 Qiieenhithc. 
 
 On the evening of the 20th, we faw the 
 fails of the long-boat in the offing ; but the 
 fuddcn iinpulfe of our unreflecSting joy on 
 the occafion, was immediately checked by 
 the apprehcnlions that naturally arofe in 
 our minds from her early return. The in- 
 terval of her arrival at the ftiip was a period 
 of very painful fufpenfe to every one on 
 board : at length, to our inexpreflible fatis- 
 |ii»fl:ion, we obfcrved, on her coming along- 
 
 fide, 
 
 '-i^^ 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 .o ,/* 
 
 y.<k 
 
 4^ <'*> 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.1 
 
 ■tt Uii 12.2 
 Sf l£& 12.0 
 
 
 6" 
 
 
 Fhotographic 
 
 Sdences 
 
 CorporaJion 
 
 v> 
 
 
 
 23 WIST MAM SIRHT 
 
 wnsm,N.v. MSM 
 
 (7l6)»n-4M3 
 
 '4^ 
 

f ( 
 
 %H 
 
 1788. 
 
 July. 
 
 V'^> 
 
 ' ( 
 
 k 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 fide, that not an individual was miiHng — 
 Our immediate attention, however, was cal- 
 led to the affiftanceof Ibme wounded men, 
 who had fuffered feverely in a very violent 
 confli<5t the boat had fuflained with the na- 
 tives of the ftraits, and which was the caufe 
 of her fudden return. 
 
 The whole attention of the (hip was now 
 transferred to our wounded people ; but 
 though feveral of them were much hurt, 
 we were confoled with findhig that no mor- 
 tal injury had been received by any. The 
 officer was wounded by a barbed arrow in 
 the head, which would have killed him on 
 the fpot, if a thick hat had not deadened 
 the force of the weapon. One of the fea- 
 men was pierced in the breaft, and another 
 in the calf of the leg, into which the arrow 
 had entered fo far as to render a very large 
 incifion abfolutely neceflary, in order to 
 difcharge it. A fourth received a wound 
 very near the heart, but the weapon which 
 gave it, very fortunately fell (hort of the 
 vital parts. The reft of the people were 
 bruifed in a terrible manner by the ftones 
 and clubs of the enemy ; even the boat it- 
 felf was pierced in a thoufand places by ar- 
 rows. 
 
 V4j 
 
 »■ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 ^ss 
 
 rows, many of which remained in the awning , -53^ 
 that covered the hack part of it ; and which, Jwlt. 
 by receiving the arrows, and breaking the 
 fall of large ftones thrown from flings, in 
 a g^at meafure faved our party from inevi- 
 table deftrudtion. 
 
 In this engagement the natives behaved 
 with a fpirit and refolution that reiifted the 
 ufual terror of fire-arms among a fiivage 
 people ; for the conteft was clofe, and for 
 fome time our men fought for their lives. — - 
 One of them had been fingled out by an in- 
 dividual favage for his vidim, and a fierce 
 engagement took place between them. — ^The 
 native was armed with a ftone bludgeon, 
 and the failor with a cutlafs. They both 
 nianifefted, for fome time, equal courage and 
 dexterity ; but if an intervening oar had 
 not broke a blow, armed with all the force 
 of his enemy, our brave countryman muft 
 have funk beneath it. It however failed 
 of its object, and gave him an opportunity, 
 by a fevere flroke of the cutlafs, to deprive 
 the native of an arm, who, notvvithftand- 
 ing fuch a lofs, and feveral other wounds, 
 contrived to fwim from the boat, indebted 
 for his life to the noble mercy of his con- 
 
 «j[uerorj 
 
 '•; 
 
286 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 I 
 
 1788. qucror, who dirdalncd to kill him In the 
 
 juLv. water. 
 ' The feaman who was wounded in the leg, 
 
 continued, duiing the adion, with the arrow 
 in his flefh : and without attempting to 
 rid hlmfelf of the torturing weapon, became, 
 by his courageous and a(flive exertions, a 
 very principal inftrument in preferving the 
 boat. , , 
 
 Though we had never had any intercourfe 
 or communication with the inhabitants of 
 the ftraits, we had indulged ourfelves with 
 ' the hope that our friendly conduct towards 
 their neighbours, might, by fome means, 
 have reached the diftrid of their habitation, 
 and given them favourable impreflions of 
 us : but their conduct marked the moft fa- 
 vage and bloody hoftility ; and the fury of 
 their onfet compelled a fimilar fpirit of re- 
 iiftance : but to do juftice to the humanity 
 of our people, — notwithftanding the actual 
 fufferings of many of them, and the cruel 
 fate which they well knew would have been 
 the certain allotment of them all, had they 
 loft the day, — they never failed, in recoun- 
 ting the circumftances of it, to exprefs an 
 unfeigned concern for the unhappy people 
 
 who 
 
 t 
 
 ■I 
 
 f \ 
 
 
him in the 
 
 1 in tlie leg, 
 :h the arrow 
 ;mpting to 
 on, became, 
 exertions, a 
 cferving the 
 
 ' intercourfe 
 labitants of 
 felves with 
 ucl towards 
 )me means, 
 ■ habitation, 
 preflions of 
 :he moft fa- 
 the fury of 
 fpirit of re- 
 le humanity 
 ; the adual 
 id the cruel 
 id have been 
 ,11, had they 
 in recoun- 
 ) exprefs an 
 ippy people 
 who 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 287 
 
 who had fo raflily courted their own deftruc- 1 788. 
 tion. • July. 
 
 The attack was begun by the favages,— 
 who boarded the boat, with the defign of 
 taking her, in two canoes, containing be- 
 tween forty and fifty men, who were moft 
 probably fome of their choiceft warriors. 
 Several other canoes alio remained at afmall 
 diftance, to allift in the attempt; and the 
 fliore was every where lined with people, 
 who difchargcd at ourveflel continual fhow- 
 ers of ftones and arrows. A cliief in one of 
 the canoes, who encouraged the advnnc': of 
 the others, was moft fortunately fliot in 
 the head with a fingle ball, while in the 
 very a£l of throwing a fpear of a moft 
 enormous length at the cockfwain This 
 circumftance caufed the canoes to draw back, l 
 and deprived the natives who were already 
 engaged, of that fupport vvhich muft have 
 
 enfured them the viftory. Indeed, as it 
 
 was, when we confider that the boat's com- 
 pany confifted only of thirteen men, who 
 were attacked with the moft courageous 
 fury by fuperior numbers, and galled as 
 thefe were, at the fame moment, by the 
 numerous weapons conftantly difcharged 
 
 from 
 
 v 
 
■y^ (i 
 
 ii88 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 ft . 
 
 li 
 
 1788. from the (bore, their efcape is to be num- 
 
 JvtT. bered among thofe favourable events of life, 
 
 which Dever fail to excite, in well ordered 
 
 minds, a mingled fenfation of gratitude and 
 
 aftonifhment. 
 
 The boat had advanced a confiderable way 
 up the Straits of de Fuca, and had entered 
 a bay or harbour; when, as our people 
 were preparing to land, for the purpofe of 
 examining it, they were attacked by the na- 
 tives, as has been juft related ; and, of 
 courfe, efFedually obftrufted in the purfuit . 
 of their original defign. From this ftation, 
 however, they obferved, that the ftraits to 
 the Eaft North Eafl: appeared to be of great 
 . extent, and to encreafe rather than diminifh. 
 As they returned down the ft raits, they 
 were met by a fmall canoe paddled by two 
 men, who were the fubjeds of Wicananifli, 
 and from whom they purchafed fome fifti. 
 But words cannot exprefs the furprife and 
 abhorrence of our people, when thefe fa- 
 vages held up two human heads, but juft 
 cut off, and ftill ftreaming with blood, by 
 way of offering them to fale. They held 
 thefe deteftable obje6ls by the hair with 
 ' an air of triumph and exultation : and, when 
 
 • the 
 
 ^■| 
 
 I' 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 289 
 
 the crew of the boat difcovered (igns of i^SS. 
 difguil and dctedation at fuch an horrid Jvtv* 
 fpedacle, the favages, in a tone, and with * 
 
 looks of extreme fatisfadtion, informed them, 
 that they were the heads of two people be- 
 longing to Tatootche, whom they had mur- 
 dered, as that chief had lately declared war 
 againft Wicananifh. This circumflance 
 threw a damp upon the fpirits of the Crew, 
 which continued, more or lefs, through the 
 whole of the voyage. 
 
 Though the boat had not fucceeded in 
 the principal objeft of our expedition, yet 
 it did not return without being able to com- 
 municate fome knowledge of the {^raits of 
 de Fuca. She had failed near thirty leagues 
 up the {Irait, and at that diflance from the 
 fea it was about fifteen leagues broad, with 
 a clear horizon flretching to the £aft for 
 1 5 , leagues more. — Such an extraordinary 
 circumflance filled us with flrange conjec- 
 tures as to the extremity of this ftrait, which 
 we concluded, at all events, could not be at 
 any great diftance from Hudfon's Bay:— 
 An opinion which is confidered at large in 
 the Introdudtion to thefe volumes. 
 
 Vol. I. T We 
 
^gQ VOYAGESTOTHE 
 
 1783. ^^ were now obliged to give up all hope 
 July, of obtaining any further fatisfadlion con- 
 cerning the extent of the ftraits, or of the 
 particulars of Shoalwater Bay, at leaft for 
 this feafon. We therefore prepared to return 
 with all poflible expedition to join our party 
 m King Geori'e's Sound. 
 Monday II On the 2 1 ft, we put to fea with the tide 
 of ebb, and by noon we were entirely clear 
 of the Sound. Our latitude was 48° 41' 
 North, and Port Effingham bore North 
 Weft by North, at the diftance of five nniles. 
 
 During our ftay in this port, we were 
 vifited by a great variety of people, who 
 refided at differejit places between Port Cox 
 and the ifland of Tatootche. But none of 
 thofe who inhabit the country up the ftrait 
 ventured to approach us : perhaps the fear 
 of Tatootche, whofe Ifland is fituated it the 
 very entrance, and is faid to contain near 
 five thoufand people, might prevent them 
 from coming to the (hip. 
 
 In this ftation we procured a confidcrable 
 
 quantity of very fine fea-otter (kins, with 
 
 abundance of fi(h, confifting of falmon, 
 
 ' halibut, herrings, fardonies, cod, trout, and 
 
 rock-fifli. We were alfo furni(hed with a 
 
 COH' 
 
( I 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 291 
 
 continual fupply of vegetables and fruits 1^88. 
 of the woods ; particularly a kind of wild Ji-lt. 
 currant, which grows on trees of a tolerable 
 (ize. 
 
 The found is, by no means, fo extenfive 
 as that of Nootka. It affords, however, 
 feveral places of (heltcr, but none of them 
 are fo commodious as Port Effingham, which 
 is entirely fecure from all winds. The coaft 
 every where abounds with timber for fliip- 
 building, and which would form the fineft 
 mafts and fpars in the world. 
 
 During the whole of the 22d the wind Tucfjay xa 
 blew from the Weft North Weft, with 
 which we ftood to fea to the South Weft, 
 till noon of the 23d, when the latitude wasvvcduefdayij 
 
 48° 36' North. At this time we had made 
 
 fo confiderable an offing that we loft fight of 
 land ; when, at three in the afternoon, the 
 wind veering to the South Weft, we tacked 
 and ftood to the Weft North Weft, \i make 
 the land. 
 
 In the morning of the 24th, the wind Tiuirfdaya* 
 ftiifted to the Southward, which brouglit 
 thick, hazy weather, and of courfe pre- 
 vented us from clofing with the fliore.— 
 Towards noon, however, it cleared away, 
 
 T 2 and 
 
292 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. and the latitude was 49" 40' North : but we 
 JoLv. fcarccly had taken the meridian, when the 
 fog returned, and on fouiidin)^, we had no 
 more than twenty fathoms of water ; on 
 which we tacked immediately and Aood to 
 Tea. At four o*clock it again cleared up, 
 when Breaker's Point was feen bearing Eaft 
 by South, difVant four leagues, and our dif- 
 tance from the land was only three leagues ; 
 fo that when we tacked, we muft have been 
 clofe on board it. 
 Friday »s The thick, mifty weather did not entirely 
 clear away till the morning of the 25th, 
 when the entrance of King George's Sound 
 was feen bearing Eaft North Eaft, at the 
 diftance of fix leagues ; but it again came 
 on fo very foggy, that it would have been 
 imprudence in the extreme to have run for 
 the land. 
 Satuniay s6 About eight o'clock in the morning of 
 the t6th, we happily anchored fafe in 
 Friendly Cove ; when we enjoyed the very 
 great fatisfa<nion of finding our friends iu 
 perfedl health and fecurity, as well as the 
 vcflcl in a forward ftate of advancement ; 
 Ihe was completely in frame, part gf her 
 
 (ides 
 
 'Hr->i-' 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 fides were planked, her decks laid, and 
 moft of her iron work finllhcd. 
 
 During our ahfence a coiiridenible quan- 
 tity of furs had been collected, not only 
 from the natives, but from various com- 
 panies of ftrangers, whom the fame of the 
 veflel had induced to vifit Noolka, in order 
 to fatisfy their curiofity with the fight of 
 fuch an objei^. 
 
 Maquilla had fcrupuloufly adhered to every 
 part of his engagement, and the faithful 
 Callicum had attended to the welfare and 
 fafety of our people, with the vigilance of 
 honour, and the affedion of friendship: 
 the inhabitants of the village in his ju- 
 rifdi£tion, not only brought daily and plen- 
 tiful fupplies of fi(h and other provifions to 
 the houfe, but gave the party every adift- 
 ance in their power, by his immediate orders. 
 Nor is it poilible for us to relate his zealous 
 regard and unQiaken attachment to us, 
 without lamenting the unmerited fate he 
 received, from the unfeeling and execrable 
 conduct of men who were natives of the 
 moft enlightened quarter of the globe, and 
 boaft the profeflion of a religion of peace 
 and mercy. 
 
 T 3 CHAP. 
 
 293 
 1788. 
 
 July. 
 
 ^■» i M ii 'V 'mi mmimmmit 
 
294 
 1788. 
 
 JULV. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THl 
 
 C H A P. XVIT. 
 
 Anxiety of the Party on Shore on Account of 
 the Ship. — Reports fprca J by the Nat:ves,'^' 
 KnowU'Jge obtained by the Pijrty of our En" 
 gagentjtit in the Straits of De Fuca, and 
 its Corfc'iuence. — Improvement viadc in the 
 Houfe^ ^c. during the A/ft nre of the Felice. 
 — The AJioni/lmcnt (f the Natives at the 
 Building of the f'^rffi'/, with their peculiar 
 
 . Attention to the Employ m- nt of the Stnit- s. — 
 Our Obfcrva'inn 'f the Sabbath an Objc^ of 
 particular Curi-fity to the Natives .r- Some 
 Knovc ledge of their Religion derivtd from 
 thence, — Defign of pro-ceding again to Port 
 Cox. — Rcafom ajjigned for not flopping there 
 on our Return from Port Effingham. — Our 
 Intentions frujlrated. — Mutiny on Board. 
 — T)&^ Perfons concerned in it turned on Shore, 
 '—T*he Reafons for fuch a Meafure, t£c. 
 
 IF, during our progrefs to the Southward, 
 we felt at times a very poignant anxiety 
 for the fafety and welfare of thofe whom 
 we had left on ftiore, it cannot be fuppofed, 
 'for a moment, that they were not afFe(fled 
 
 - ^ by 
 
 « 4.U- 
 
 1 ^. 
 
 ^•i.. 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 «95 
 
 by (imilar fenfations for their fricmls on 1788. 
 board the Felice; who were f^onc to en« J*'*'-^' 
 counter the clangers of thofe fcas where it 
 was douhtcd that cv-r (hip h;ul ploughed 
 the water, and tocxj)lorc thole (o.ills which 
 they did not rupp.)ll; r[i\ Eiiropcm foot luid 
 ever trod. — Their folicirudc was equal to 
 our own ; ajid their intervals of labour were 
 conftantly employed in countinj;; the hours 
 of our ahfence, — offering up prayers for our 
 fafety, — and joining in wifhes for our re- 
 turn. — But this was not all — the natural 
 concern they muft feel on our account, was 
 heightened into the mod painful alarm, 
 from a report hroiight them hy foiDc of t!i3 
 fubje<fts of Wicanani(h, wliich contained au 
 account of our having hccn attacked hv the 
 people of Tatootchc, who had cut to pieces 
 a part of the crew of the Felice; and tiiat 
 the principal officers wcreaniong thofe who 
 had fallen in the conted. -Such a relation, 
 which could not be fuppofed, by the mod 
 incredulous of our people, to h;i a mere 
 invention, threw them into a ftate of con- 
 fulion that checked the growing ardour 
 of their exertions, and cail a gloom over 
 them which the utmoft efforts of their re- 
 
 T 4 . Iblutiou 
 
 i<ir'. I 
 
 ISifS^'^' 
 
 ■■'V-' 
 
%^6 
 
 1788. 
 
 July. 
 
 VOYAOESTOTHE ^ : »i 
 
 folution,and the fpirlt neceflkry to encounter 
 a repeated acceflion of difficulties, was not 
 able entirely to diflipate. — This report, how- 
 ever, proved to be an entire fabrication of 
 theie who brought it, as it was previous to 
 the a£fcion of our long-boat with the natives 
 of the Straits, which might have, in fome 
 degree, juftified an exaggerated account of 
 that unfortunate event. From what motives 
 this falfhood was fabricated, we never could 
 difcover, or, indeed, form any thing like 
 a fatisfaftory conje<5lure. A full and faithful 
 account, however, of our proceedings in 
 Port Effingham, and a particular defcription 
 of our wounded feamen, was brought to 
 Nootka Sound, by a native of that port, 
 who had arrived to difpofe of a cargo of 
 fiirs to Maquilla. 
 
 Among other unpleafant confequences of' 
 this report, it put an end, for fome time, to 
 all communication between the natives of 
 King George's Sound and the houfe; and 
 occaiioned our people, who were under the 
 afflicting apprehenfions that they fhould 
 never fee us more, to redouble their precau- 
 tions till the arrival of the Iphigenia. — Their 
 joy, therefore, may be more eafily conceived 
 
 than 
 
 ^L 
 
 •ym iii.miiiii. 1 .n>^'^imi-*s^&ssr2 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 29J 
 
 than defcribed, when they faw the Felice 1788. 
 enter the Sound, and beheld every perfon )««•▼• 
 on board in health and fpirits, who had 
 departed with her. 
 
 The (ituation and circumdances in which 
 we found our little colony at our return, 
 very evidently proved their diligence, as 
 well as attention to the orders left with them 
 for their condu£l: during our abfence. The 
 houfe had been rendered perfectly fecure 
 from any attack of the natives, though they 
 (hould have employed their whole force 
 againd it. A palifado of ftrong ftnkes, with 
 a well-formed fence of thick buflies, had 
 rendered our ground, in a great meafure^ 
 impregnable. Various other improvements 
 of lefs coufequence, had been made, as new 
 ideas of convenience and utility fuggefted 
 themfelves, which, altogether, gave the 
 place an appearance of a little dock-yard, 
 and not only engroffed the attention, but 
 excited the aflonifhment of the Nootkan 
 people. 
 
 Our abfence from the Sound had been 
 only one month and twenty-five days ; and 
 in this time, as we have already particu- 
 Urized, a very expeditious advance had 
 
 been 
 
 ' 
 
 ■ v 
 
 .^ 1 
 
 v. 
 
 
 i . 1 -I 
 
 ■ 
 
 •;- \ 
 
 
 iSjifftl^'Tli" 
 
 •tmi 
 
 ...4^„ 
 
 •Y- 
 
i^S 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1 788. been made in the veflel. — She was, as maj 
 Jwiv. be very naturally fuppofed, an objedl of great 
 curiofity among the natives, who could 
 never be perfuaded that fuch a body of 
 timber would find a power equal to the re- 
 moval of it from the ftocks on which it was 
 building. — But their moft inquiiitive atten- 
 tion employed itlelf on the workfhop of the 
 fmlths, and the operation of the forges. — 
 Their fimple minds, in a ftate fo diftant 
 from the knowledge of enlightened nature 
 and the cultivated world, beheld, with all 
 the extravagance of infantine delight, the 
 mechanic (kill of our artificers. — Nor was 
 their intereft lefs engaged than their curio- 
 fity, in attending to thofe powers which 
 fabricated the variety of articles that added 
 fo much to the pride, the plealure, and the 
 convenience of their lives. — Indeed they 
 were continually making application to have 
 iron forged into forms of ufe or ornament ; 
 and fo very fickle were they in the obj«^£ls 
 of their fancy, that it became a matter of 
 confiderable trouble to fatisfv their varvinof 
 inclinations. — It was therefore determined 
 to turn this changeful dilpolition to our 
 . own advantage, by enhancing the value of 
 f.v^ . indulging 
 
 ••---riv"' 
 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 *9$ 
 
 indulging It; in confequence of which re- 1738, 
 gulation,the daily fiipply of provifions was jutv. 
 confidenibly augmented, and fi(h and fruit 
 were brought in tncreafirig aburjdance. 
 
 The 27th, being Su iday, the crew had Sunday 17 
 leave to amufe thw-mfelves with a ramble on 
 (bore. The weather was extremely plea- 
 fant,— the air was genial,— and every one 
 wore in his looks the lati^!"..6lion he fe.t, 
 on enjoying a ccllation from labour, and the 
 inilulgence of cafe and f curity. — Indeed it 
 was our conftanr cuftom to pay all pofnulc 
 refpcdl to the fabbath, and to fulfill its de- 
 fign, whenever it was in our power, by 
 making it a d ly of icft. 
 
 The nativ s could not, at firft, compre- 
 hend why all our occupuioub ftuoJ ftill on , 
 this day : — but the diff.rent clo\thing of the 
 men, and particularly, the clean faces of the 
 fmlthj and armourers, awakened their cu- 
 riofity fo far as to produce an enquiry of us 
 concerning this incomprehenfjblt^ ngulation. 
 — The manner of their receiving our expla- 
 nation, gave us (bme uifight into their reli- 
 gion, which will be the fulJjecl o( a future 
 
 page. -,:. vr / -.- - :, ,; ,:..- , -, * ^' 
 
 : , ^-■' On 
 
 4 ' 
 
 W' 
 
 1 r -' 
 
 I. 
 
 1 > 
 
 I 
 
 1] 
 
 ■■J 
 
 J : 
 
 if 
 
 * ^ " — t^i^^»^ >•»..-.. 
 
 :t >"» ■,•!«,• ■ 
 
 ' ^H,S*»Milk'«»4| 
 
 ,^i t >.ivJ 
 
pr^'' 
 
 300 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. 
 July. 
 
 On the 28th, we refumed our work, and 
 a large party was fent into the woods to fell 
 ° ^ * timber, for the purpofe of planking the vef- 
 fel, which was a very laborious buiinefs, as 
 there were large logs to be conveyed up- 
 wards of a mile, through a thidk foreft, to 
 our little dock-yard. — The remainder of the 
 crew were employed, either in making cor- 
 dage, aflifting the carpenters, or preparing 
 the (hip for fea. 
 
 It was now determined to put our defign 
 in execution of proceeding in a few days to 
 Port Cox, to pay another commercial vifit to 
 Wicananifli. It was, indeed, our original 
 intention to have taken that place in our 
 way back from Port Effingham ; but the 
 ' accident of the long-boat, in the Straits of 
 de Fuca, and our impatience to return to our 
 friends in the Sound, predominated over every 
 other confideration. But as we were now 
 perfectly fatisfied as to the fituation and pro- 
 grefs of the party at Nootka, it was agreed 
 to proceed again to fea, as we expected to 
 reap very confiderable advantages from the 
 numerous hunters of Wicananifli, who, we 
 had every reafbn to fuppofe, would, by this 
 jkime, have accumulated a very large quan- 
 
<Mi7TH» - 
 
 work, and 
 oods to fell 
 ng the vef- 
 buiinefs, as 
 iveyed up- 
 k foreft, to 
 nder of the 
 naklng cor- 
 r preparing 
 
 our defign 
 few days to 
 rcial vifit to 
 )ur original 
 lace in our 
 n; but the 
 Straits of 
 sturn to our 
 1 over every 
 were now 
 on and pro- 
 was agreed 
 expedked to 
 ;s from the 
 1, who, we 
 Lild, by this 
 large quan- 
 tity 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 301 
 
 "#v* 
 
 tity of furs. Nor did -we hefitate to believe, j-^gS. 
 that our reception from that chief would be julv. 
 more gracious, as it was now in our power 
 to replenifti his cofFers with fuch an inefti- 
 mable article as a copper tea-kettle. But this 
 defign was unfortunately fruft rated by a very 
 dangerous mutiny again breaking out, which 
 was pregnant with confequences of the moll 
 alarming nature. 
 
 This mutiny was headed by the difgraced 
 boatfwain, and the beft men in the (hip.— • 
 They made a defperate attempt to feize the 
 arms and put the firft officer to death, who 
 was left to take care of the (hip; as every 
 other perfbn in command was on (hore, in 
 the engagement of his duty, or for the pur- 
 pofe of recreation. The time which was ' 
 
 chofen for this enterprize was well ima- 
 gined, as it was in the evening, on their re- 
 turn from the woods, and when, as we firft 
 obferved, there was but one officer on board. 
 
 Ever (ince the firft fymptoms of mutiny 
 appeared off the Philippines, the arms had 
 been removed from the quarter-deck to the 
 cabin ; and this precaution faved the (hip : 
 for the officer having fortunately gained the 
 pabiu before the mutineers, he placed him- 
 
 f Mf 
 
 X 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 t 
 
 4 
 
 In 
 
 •» 
 
302 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. felf at the door with a loaded blunderbufs, 
 JuLv. and kept them from advancmg, while he 
 called abud for afTiftance. It was a fortu- 
 nate circumftance that moft of the officers 
 were fitting on the quarter-deck of the new 
 veflel, which was not more than an hundred 
 yards from the (hip. We therefore inftantly 
 heard the alarm through the cabin-window, 
 and did not delay an inftant in getting oix 
 board. , 
 
 The firft ftep we took was to arm our- 
 felves : — when, being thus prepared, we 
 turned the crew on deck, as we were deter- 
 mined to face the bufinefs on the inftant. 
 We well knew that there were many good 
 men in the (hip ; and we refolved, if pof- 
 iiblc, to feparate them from the reft, before 
 they were prevailed on, by any means, to 
 join in the plot. The crew being now all 
 on deck, it inftantly appeared who were 
 the ringleaders in the bufinefs, though we 
 had fome reafon to apprehend that the mu- 
 tiny was a matter of general agreement. We 
 then informed them that it was our deter- 
 mination to proceed to extremities ; and 
 warned fuch as were difpofed to be obe- 
 dient, to feparate themfelves from the reft : 
 : . ; I . ^ — when, 
 
 *-' 
 
 ^^ 
 
■ ■MWOftW - 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 3^i 
 
 —■when, on prefeiiting our arms, moft of 178^* 
 the crew came over to us, leaving eight tur- July. 
 bulent fellows, headed by the difcarded 
 boatfwain, who remained deaf to all our per- 
 fuafions to return to their duty.— As we 
 were now very fuperior in numbers, we 
 hoped to fettle the matter without (bedding 
 a drop of blood on the occafion. We there- 
 fore left them the alternative, either to go 
 into irons, or be turned on fliore among the 
 favages. They preferred the Litter, — and 
 were immediately landed, with every thing 
 that individually belonged to them. 
 
 They were no fooner gone than good order 
 and difcipline were reftored. luftrudions, 
 however, were fent to the party on fliore, 
 not to permit the mutinous people to find a 
 Ihelter at the houfe, or to be admitted to 
 any communication with them. A ftri£l 
 watch was alfo kept on board, as we were 
 not, by any means, without our doubts con- 
 cerning the dlfpofitions of the red of the 
 crew. 
 
 We were not informed of the whole ex- Tucfday 
 tent of the plot till the following day, 
 when one of the Tailors came and gave a vo- 
 luntary account of it. Almoft all the crew 
 
 had 
 
 1 1 
 
 ' t , . 
 
 s I 
 
 ) ..' 
 
 Il 
 
 U 
 
 I ■ 
 
 1) 
 
3<^4 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 /(■ 
 
 'I 
 
 ¥ 
 
 J 788. had (igned a paper, by which they bound 
 jwtr. themfelves to join in getting pofleflion of 
 the (hip, when they were immediately to 
 quit the coafl of America, and (leer their 
 courfe to the Sandwich Iflands ; from whence 
 they propofed to make the bcft of their way 
 to fome port where they might difpofe of 
 their valuable cargo. — As they had taken 
 care to deflroy the writing, we could not 
 difcover what their intentions were with 
 refpe£t to the officers, — but the beft treat- 
 ment they could have expefted, would have 
 been to be left at Nootka. Every individual 
 of the crew, remaining on boird, was eager 
 to exculpate himfelf; and they all joined in 
 declaring, that the menaces of the rlnglead- 
 ' ers alone wrung from them a temporary 
 confent to join in the mutiny; and the 
 fear of being inftantly murdered, was the 
 only caufe of preventing them from giving 
 notice of the plot to the officers of the ihip. 
 Had we been acquainted with thefe cir- 
 cumftances on the preceding evening, in all 
 probability it would not have pafTed without 
 bloodftied ; but our ignorance of them for- 
 tunately preferved us from fuch a cataftro- 
 phe. The ringleaders were now, at leaft 
 
 removed 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 ' t 
 
 505 
 
 removed from any opportunity of doing 1-8C- 
 xnifchief, by being clear of the (hip; for, J"*-^* 
 befides the attention they would have re- 
 quired, had they been kept in irons, — we 
 could not, even in fuch a fituation, have 
 prevented their communication with the 
 other feamen ; which might have been em- 
 ployed in creating difcontents, if not in en- 
 deavouring to form new phiis for effecting ' 
 their atrocious purpofes. We determined 
 therefore that they fliould remain on (hore, 
 at leaft till the arrival of the Iphigenia. 
 
 1' 
 
 - A 
 
 ^\. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 U 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 
 il 
 
 •I t 
 
^o6 
 
 1788* 
 
 JWLV. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 C H A P. XVIII. 
 
 r I 
 
 Condudi of the Party on Shore rrfpeSiing the 
 Mutiriy. — Promife made to the Crew to go to 
 the Sandwich IJlands. — Occupation of the 
 Ship's Company, — ^he Mutineers go to live 
 with Maquilla and Callicum.^They are 
 flripped of their CloathSy and made to work,-^ 
 Princefs Royal fcen in the Offing, — Prepare 
 for Sea, — ^uit King George* s Sound a fecond 
 Time. — Prefents made to Maquilla and Cal" 
 licum. — Thofe Chiefs prepare for War,'-^ 
 Arms lent to them, — Strength of Maquilla" s 
 Forces, — He departs on his Expedition to 
 the Northward* — Inflr unions given to the 
 Party on Shore, 
 
 'T^H I S difturbance on board the fhip oc- 
 cafioncd, at firft, no little uneafinefs as 
 to the hifluence it might have on the re- 
 maining part of our voyage; but we were 
 iiot only confoled, but encouraged in favour- 
 able expectations, by the conduct of the 
 party on (hore, who not only declared their 
 deteftation and abhorrence of the mutinous 
 
 deligns. 
 
 n 
 
"fpeSiing the 
 yew to go to 
 Uion of the 
 ers go to live 
 .^They are 
 le to work. — 
 ng.'^Prepare 
 7und a fecond 
 ulla and Cal- 
 for ffar. — 
 
 of Maqutllas 
 Expedition to 
 
 given to the 
 
 the (hip oc- 
 uneafinefs as 
 on the re- 
 but we were 
 Ted in favour- 
 idud of the 
 declared their 
 he mutinous 
 defigns. 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 defigns, in the moft forcible terms, but 
 took every method which their underftand- 
 ings could fuggeft, to fatisfy us of their 
 obedient difpofition and fenfe of duty. — 
 They renewed their affurances of fidelity to 
 us in the moft folemn manner, and we did 
 not withhold the confidence wc believed 
 them to defer ve. 
 
 This mutiny furprifed us the more, as no 
 relaxation of duty had taken place fince our 
 departure from China. The crew had been 
 kept ftri6lly to the various occupations 
 which our circumflances required, but with- 
 out that rigour which begets difcontent ; 
 and they mofl certainly did not enjoy the 
 leifure which idlenefs fo often appropriates 
 mifchief. As to the folly of their defign, 
 that is not a matter which will juftify a mo- 
 ment's wonder. It is very fortunate for 
 mankind that wickednefs fo often wants 
 judgment: in this cafe, the defign of run- 
 ning away with the fhip arofe from little 
 more than the impatience of their paflions 
 to get to the Sandwich Iflands, which we 
 had declared to be a part of our voyage, and 
 where they longed to folace themfelves in 
 the enjoyments afforded by thofe voluptuous 
 - • U 2 abodes. — < 
 
 307 
 
 1788. 
 
 July. 
 
 'I 
 
 f ' 
 
 ^< 
 
 tMil"1<in-|ilWH»i i-- 
 
3o8 
 1788. 
 
 JULI. 
 
 %'■ 
 
 VO Y AGES TO THE 
 
 abodes. — As to any fubfequent arrange- 
 ments, they had probably left them, with 
 all the improvidence of a lailor^s character, 
 to the chance of future determination. 
 
 Indeed, — nor was it unnatural, — the 
 obedient as well as difordcrly part of the 
 crew, looked with fome degree of impati- 
 ence to a period when they (hould change 
 the defart Ihores of Nootka, and the nau- 
 feating cuftoms of its inhabitants, for the 
 genial climate, the luxurious abundance, 
 and the gratifying pleafures of the Sand- 
 wich Iflands. Nor was our departure from 
 St. George's Sound lefs anxioufly defired by 
 many of the crew, from the refle(5lion that 
 cannibals inhabited its (hores, — and that the 
 fate which had befallen their countrymen at 
 Qweenhithc, might, from fome untoward 
 caufe or other, happen to them. Indeed, 
 as we have before obferved, the idea of 
 being eaten by the Americans, abfolutely 
 haunted the imaginations and preyed upon 
 the fpirits of many of our people. — We 
 therefore thought proper to renew our pro- 
 mifcs of going to the Sandwich Iflands, and 
 the eyes of every one fparklcd at the thought. 
 
 ' The 
 
NORTH WEIT COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 arrangc- 
 cm, with 
 charadler, 
 nation, 
 ral, — the 
 irt of the 
 of impati- 
 ild change 
 d the nau- 
 s, for the 
 ibundance, 
 the Sand- 
 rture from 
 
 defired by 
 e(5lion that 
 ndthat the 
 itrymen at 
 
 untoward 
 
 Indeed, 
 
 le idea of 
 
 abfolutely 
 
 eyed upon 
 ople. — We 
 w our pro- 
 flands, and 
 le thought. 
 ^ The 
 
 309 
 
 The diminution of our (hip*s compnny, 1-S8. 
 from the pr^fs of employment on Ihore, J"''^* 
 and reparation of the muiinou? feamen, pre- 
 vented us from leaving King George*s Soinul, 
 to make another voyage to Port Cox, as 
 we had intended. The fails were therefore 
 unbent, the running-rigging unrccfcd, and 
 we prepared to give tlie carpenters every 
 afliftance in our power towards fiiiifhing the 
 veflei on the (locks. For this purpofe, ad- 
 ditional faw-pits were dug, and men f(.Mit to 
 be employed in them ; new iupplles of tim- 
 ber were alfo brought from the woods, and 
 an additional party was fpared from the fhip 
 to aflift in making cordnge, and the other 
 occupations of our little dock-yard. At tho 
 fame time, the neceflary ftorcs were landed 
 for the ufe of the houfe ; ai^d as the fmiths 
 had exhaufted thcmfelves of iron, their work- 
 fhop was replenifhed with a confiderahle 
 quantity of that cflential article. 
 
 Though at our departure from China we 
 poffefTed plenty of ftores of every kind, their 
 confumption had been to great in the va- 
 rious fervices which demanded them, that 
 we were, at letigth, under the nccefiity of 
 reforting to the produce of the country, and 
 
 U3 the 
 
 I 
 
 
»',( 
 
 310 
 
 VOYAGES TO THK 
 
 r I 
 
 t: 
 
 
 1788. the exertions of our own ingenuity, to fup- 
 juLY. ply their decreafing or exhaufted ftate. All 
 our fea-coal being expended, we made char- 
 coal with great facility, which the fmiths 
 preferred to the other. The turpentine, 
 which we got from trees in great abundance, 
 was found to be of great fervice in paying 
 the planks, to keep them from rending ; 
 and, when mixed with oil, of which we 
 could procure any quantity, it proved a 
 very ufeful fuccedaneum for tar — The red 
 ochre which the natives employed to paint 
 their faces, we purchafed from them: — In 
 fhort, there were very few, if any articles, 
 to be procured at Nootka, which we did not 
 contrive to turn to very good account, and 
 which we purpofely purchafed, to preferve 
 the communication of good offices between 
 us and the people, and to keep alive their 
 activity to ferve us. 
 
 Neceffity, that mother of invention, taught 
 us, in this remote corner of the globe, to 
 look for aid to thofe Iburces on which 
 we did not deign to caft an eye, while we 
 pofluffed a flore of fuch materials as flow 
 from the fupeiior knowledge of cultivated 
 . fociety : while perfeverance, that all-fub- 
 
 duing 
 

 y, to fup- 
 ftate. All 
 lade char- 
 he fmiths 
 jrpentine, 
 buudance, 
 in paying 
 
 rending ; 
 which we 
 
 proved a 
 —The red 
 1 to paint 
 hem : — In 
 y articles, 
 ive did not 
 pount, and 
 :o preferve 
 s between 
 alive their 
 
 on, taught 
 ; globe, to 
 on which 
 
 while we 
 Is as flow 
 
 cultivated 
 it all-fub- 
 duing 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 duing principle of human a£tion, produced 
 for us on the unfrequented fhores of Ame- 
 rica, fomewhat of the conveniencies, and a 
 fuccefsful imitation of thofe arts which may 
 be conlidered as the natural growth of Eu- 
 rope. 
 
 The mutinous feamen immediately built 
 themfelves a large hut, in which they re- 
 (ided, beneath whofe leafy roof they had full 
 leifure to contemplate on their paft villainy; 
 and, as their different chara^Slers might ope- 
 rate, to curfe the ill-fortune that befel, or 
 lament the wicked fpirit that mifled them. 
 They, indeed, fufFered feverely for their 
 difobedient conduct, and feemed to caO: a 
 wifliful eye to the floating habitation from 
 which they were banifhed ; for all commu- 
 nication was now (hut up between them and 
 the houfe, as well as the (hip ; — but we 
 well knew that a very little portion of in- 
 would be fufficient to 
 
 :ry 
 
 ipply 
 
 with fi(h ; and to enable them to gain a 
 fupport from the fea, we purchafed a canoe, 
 and fent it to them, as the laft fiivour or at- 
 tention they were to exped from us. 
 
 On the day after the mutiny had ap- 
 peared, Maquilla and Gallic um came on 
 
 311 
 1788. 
 
 July. 
 
 u 
 
 board, 
 
 
VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. board, to prove their friendfliip, by ofFermg 
 July, fuch fervicps as the peculiar exigency of our 
 iituation might require. Till this circum- 
 ftance led us to explain the real condition of 
 our feamen, the chiefs had confidered them 
 ID the liji^ht of flaves ; and had already com- 
 plimented us, with fome mixture of fur- 
 prife, on the extraordinary mildnefs of our 
 conduct towards the crime of rebellion in a 
 people of their fuppofed condition. Nay, 
 Maquilla, from an apparent horror of the 
 offence, and a forward zeal for our fecurity, 
 had taken fome of the officers afide, and 
 ferioufly afked permiflion to collect fome of 
 his people, and put the mutineers to inftant 
 death. The requeft, as may be fuppofed, 
 was not only refufed, but treated with the 
 ftrongeft marks of difpleafure; and fo well 
 difpofeJ was Maquilla to put his project in 
 execution, that we were obliged to accom- 
 pany our refufal with repeated figns of ab- 
 horrence, in order to prevent it. Callicum, 
 however, adled in t!ie buiinefs with more 
 prudence and undt rftanding: — He wifhed 
 to affiil in puniflilng the offenders by a mode 
 that he knew could not be difigreeable, to us 
 and would beiufTiciently mortifying to them- 
 
 ; , - Whenjj 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 When, therefore, he underftood that thefe 
 unhappy people were baniflied from the (hip, 
 he requefted our permiflion to receive them 
 into his houfe ; and as we were well afTured 
 that the beft hofpitality even of a Nootkan 
 chief, would be a very fevere punifhment to 
 a Britifh failor, — we readily confented to his 
 propofition, on his affuring us, at the fame 
 time, that his new guefts fhould be fecure 
 from any perfonal injury whatever. 
 
 This bufinefs being arranged, we left the 
 difcarded people to their new guardians, and 
 turned our thoughts to matters of more im- 
 mediate importance. On the following day, 
 to our great furprife, and as we are ready to 
 acknowledge, to our no little fatisfadlion, we 
 faw our fturdy and refolute mutineers em* 
 ployed in fetching water, and other menial 
 fervices, in the execution of which, flaves 
 alone are employed at Nootka. Nor were 
 they fuffered to quit the houfe of Callicum 
 on any occafion whatever, without being 
 attended by natives of the loweft condition, 
 to whofe care and command they were en- 
 trufted. This compulfory labour muft have 
 been a very mortifying circumftance to 
 them ; as, rather than employ the canoe we 
 
 ha4 
 
 3'3 
 1788. 
 
 JULV. 
 
 I- 
 
 i 
 
 i*i; 
 
 1 
 
 "■St*^.— ^ajU,s. ^ .^,. 
 
 ^ '''pRiimiw . ■ 
 
! 
 
 ■I 
 
 ' .k 
 
 «,■ )l 
 
 q,j VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. had given them to get fifli for themfelves, 
 July, they had been fo lazy as to part with fome 
 of their cloathing to purchafe that article 
 from the natives. The chiefs, however, 
 foon took care to fecure their cloaths to 
 themfelves ; and, without being guilty of 
 injuftice to our friends, we are obliged to 
 attribute their feveral propofals concerning 
 the offenders, though we did not at firft fuf- 
 pe6t their motives, to the defire of getting 
 pofTeffion of the feveral garments that co- 
 vered them. That object was eafily ob- 
 tained ; and when thefe unhappy men had 
 given up their all, they were forced to go 
 to fea, to affift in procuring fifli, — not for 
 , themfelves, but for the families of their 
 new matters. - « '. . 
 
 w"dndaly 6 ^'® Continued our various operations with 
 the mofl indefatigable induftry and attention, 
 and nothing material happened till the 6th 
 of Auguft; when, about noon, a fail was 
 feen in the offing, which we knew to be the 
 Princefs Royal. She appeared, at firft, as 
 if ftanding in for the Sound, but the weather 
 becoming foon after thick and hazy, we loft 
 fight of her. On the arrival of this veflel 
 on the coaft, we determined immediately to 
 • . prepare 
 
 r t 
 
 ♦•^■J•^t^. 
 
 t*'*'^-**''" 
 
V 
 
 i 
 
 lemfelves, 
 ivith fome 
 hat article 
 
 however, 
 cloaths to 
 
 guilty of 
 obliged to 
 :oncerning 
 It firft fuf- 
 of getting 
 5 that co- 
 eafily ob- 
 ' men had 
 reed to go 
 , — not for 
 s of their 
 
 itions with 
 
 I attention, 
 
 II the 6th 
 a fail was 
 V to be the 
 at firft, as 
 he weather 
 zy, we loft 
 
 this V£ffel 
 ediately to 
 prepare 
 
 NORTir WEST COAST OF AMERICA. air 
 
 prepare for fea, as the prefence of this (hip 1788. 
 would be an additional fecurity to our par- Aucuit. 
 ty ; and, notwithftanding the diminiflied 
 ftate of our crew, we were now refolved to * 
 
 venture to Port Cox, to poflefs ourfelves of 
 the furs which, we had every reafon to 
 believe, muft have been colle6led for us by 
 Wicananifli : a plan which would have been 
 already executed, if we had not been impeded 
 by the mutinous condu(fl of our crew. 
 
 On the 7th, the Princefs Royal again Timrfdayy 
 appeared in the offing, and was again ob- 
 fcured from our view, by the return of 
 thick, mifty weather. 
 
 On the 8th, we were ready for fea, — and Friday s 
 
 as we faw nothing of the Princefs Royal, v* 
 
 we became very apprehenfive that fhe might 
 
 reach the ftiores of Wicananifh before us, 
 
 and be able to tempt that chief, by various 
 
 articles of novelty on board her, to intrude 
 
 upon the treaty he had made with us. We, 
 
 therefore, did not delay a moment to fail 
 
 from the Sound, with a gentle breeze of 
 
 wind from the Weftward, and proceeded 
 
 to Port Cox. 
 
 Previous to our departure, we confirmed 
 our friendftiip with Maquilla and Callicum, 
 
 with 
 
 O 
 
 "-H 
 
 I 
 
 
 )\ 
 
 I 
 
 ..«Cj/'*^"W' 
 
 _.«wi»»^ 
 
 sS^BSflKjajr?* 
 
3i6 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 : ' 1 ^ 
 
 ^\ Uf 
 
 ^1- 
 
 
 r » 
 
 r 
 
 i 
 
 
 1788. with the ufual interchange of prefents.— 
 August. Thefe chiefs had been for fome time prepa- 
 ring for an hoftile expedition againft an 
 enemy at a confiderable diftance to the North- 
 ward, and were now on the point offetting 
 forward. Some of the nations in the vi- 
 cinity of the Northern Archipelago, had. 
 It feems, invaded a village about twenty 
 leagues to the Northward of King George's 
 Sound, under the jurifdi(Slion, and which 
 had been left to the particular government 
 of his grandmother. 
 
 At this place the enemy had done confi- 
 derable mifchief, — murdering fome of the 
 people, and carrying others into captivity. 
 On the arrival of a meflenger at Nootka 
 with the news of thefe hoftilities, the inha- 
 bitants became inftantly inflamed with a 
 moft aftive impatience for revenge ; and no- 
 thing was thought of amongft them, but 
 the means of gratifying it. 
 
 We embraced this opprotunity of bind- 
 ing the chiefs, if poffible, unalterably to us, 
 by furnifliing them with fome fire-arms 
 and ammunition, which would give them 
 a very decided advantage over tiieir ene- 
 jnies. Indeed we felt it to oQ our intereft 
 
 : ': ' ^' ' }'■ that 
 
 
 *^'^^^^s mli^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 3n 
 
 that they (hould not be difturbed and in- 1788, 
 terrupted by diftant wars; and that, if ne- auoust, 
 ceflity (hould compel them to battle, that 
 they (hould return vidorious. This unex- 
 pected acquifition of force animated them " 
 with new vigour ; for they had already con- 
 felTed that they were going to attack an 
 enemy who was more powerful, numerous 
 and favage than themfelves. 
 
 We attempted to inftill into their minds 
 the humanity of war, — and they had aduully 
 promifed to puni(h the enemies they (hould 
 take in battle with captivity, and not, as 
 had been their general practice, with death. 
 But it could not be fuppofed that the doc- 
 trines of our humane policy would be re- 
 membered by a favage nation burning with 
 revenge, in the moment of battle ; and we 
 are forry to add, that this expedition ended 
 in a moft (hocking icene of blood and maf- 
 facre. - ■ . -. 
 
 The power that Maquilla carried with him 
 on this occafion, was of a formidable na- 
 ture. His war canoes contained each thirty 
 young, athletic men, and there were twenty • 
 of thefe ve(rels, which had been drawn from 
 the different villages under the fubjeftion ^ 
 
 t 
 
 11 
 
 i\ 
 
 \ 
 
 " 
 
 \ 
 
 I 
 
 
2l8 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1 788. of Maquilla. — Comekela had the command 
 August, oftwoboats: — They moved off from the 
 fhore in folemn order, linging their fong of 
 war. The chiefs were cloathed in fea-otter 
 (kins ; and the whole army had their faces 
 and bodies painted with red ochre, and 
 fprinkled with a (hining fand, which, parti- 
 cularly when the fun (hone on them, pro- 
 duced a fierce and terrible appearance- 
 While the women encouraged the warriors, 
 in the patriotic language of the Spartan 
 dames, — to return victorious, or to return 
 no more. 
 
 The battles, or rather the attacks of thefe 
 favage tribes, are, we believe, inconceivably 
 furious, and attended with the moftlfhocking 
 actions of barbarous ferocity. They do not 
 carry on hoftilities by regular confli(Sls ; but 
 their revenge is gratified, their fanguinary 
 appetites quenched, or their laurels obtained 
 by the operations of fudden enterprize and 
 adlive ftratagcm. 
 
 The irflruiStions we left with our party 
 on (hore were fuch as the circumflances of 
 the cafe required. They were requcfled to 
 maintain, and if poflible to augment their 
 former vigilance ; particularly if any ftran- 
 
 gers 
 
 '^J^Ov. 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 319 
 
 gers fhould arrive in the Sound. And if 1788. 
 it fliould happen that our friends were van- August. 
 quiflied, and purfucd to Nootka, that they 
 fhould take a decided and a6llve part in their 
 fupport. They were alfo defired not to let 
 their humanity operate to the renewal of 
 any communication with the baniflied fea- 
 men, — but to leave them to the lamented 
 hardfliips of their condition, and the pain- 
 ful ftruggles of their repentance. 
 
 '' I 
 
 
 ^\ 
 
 CHAP. 
 
ii 
 
 ■ \ 
 
 ) 
 
 n 
 
 i')fj 
 
 ^ 
 
 !h 
 
 i 
 
 ti 
 
 I J 
 
 (< 
 
 230 
 1788. 
 
 August. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 Set fail for Port Cox, — Meet the Princefs Royah 
 — Reciprocal good Offices. — Anchor in Port 
 Cox. — Princefs Royal anchors in Port Han" 
 na. — Wicananifl) removed to Clioquatt, — 
 Long-boat fent there at two different 'Times ^ 
 with PrcfentSf &c. — Defer ipt ion of Clioquatt, 
 — Occupations of the Natives. — Bri/k Trade 
 with them. — The Long-boat fent a third 
 Time to iVicananifh^ on taking leave. — Mejfage 
 from that Chief who afterwards arrives on 
 board. — His Son propofes to embark with 
 uSf which we decUnt\ — Put to Sea, and An* 
 chor again in King George* s Sound, — The Ar* 
 rival of the IvHiQE^iA.'^-Tiannd's affec^ 
 iionate Behaviour, &c. — Arrival of Maquilla 
 and Callicum, and an Account of their Ex* 
 ^edition, &c, 
 
 WJ^ had but juft cleared the mouth of 
 ^ ^ the Sound, when a thick fog arofe, 
 which obliged us to heave to. — In the even- 
 ing, however, it cleared away, when we 
 faw the Princefs Royal within two or three 
 
 ' • miles 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ajJ 
 
 miles of us, to the windward ; and, on per- I788, 
 ceiving us, (he fired a gun to leeward and Auoitit, 
 hoifted her enfign. We returned the fignal, 
 and (he immediately bore up and fpoke to us. 
 r inftantly ordered out the boat, and went 
 on board the Princefs Royal. 1 had no per- 
 fonal knowledge of Captain Duncan, who 
 commanded her ;— but 1 had received full 
 information in China of the objed and ex- 
 tent of her voyage ; and I now felt the moft 
 anxious defire to offer any fervice to him and 
 his little crew which he might want, or it 
 might be in my power to afford. — Far from 
 feeling the moft diftant impulfe of any mi- 
 ferable confideration, arifing from a com- 
 petition of interefts, I profefs myfelf to have 
 been animated by no other defires but thofe 
 which arofe from my duty, as a man and * 
 an Englifliman. The Princefs Royal was 
 not quite fifty tons burthen, and manned by 
 fifteen men ; and when it is known that fhe 
 had doubled Cape Horn, and navigated the 
 great Northern and Southern Pacific Oceans, 
 fome idea may be formed of the diftrefles her 
 people muft have fufFered, as well as of the 
 ability and indefatigable fpirit of the com- 
 mander. Indeed, there is every reafon to , 
 Vol. I. X believe 
 
 iMlirAifetffin'ifi" 
 
 ill .1111- iinii 
 
 If i ' 'I ■ ' ti n mmmtm^it§ti 
 
322 
 
 VOYAGES TO TttE 
 
 Auousr, 
 
 1788. lielievc that this little veflel accompliHied 
 more for the benefit of her owners, than any 
 Ihip that ever failed to the North Weftern 
 Coaft of America. 
 
 Captain Duncan received me, with the 
 whole of his crew, upon deck,— whom I 
 could not but regard, as he condu£ted me to 
 his cabin, with an eye of applaufive aftonilh- 
 ment. The firfl queftion which Captain 
 Duncan afked me was, concerning the fate 
 of the (hip Nootka, about which he exprefled 
 an extreme anxiety. He had heard of the 
 various misfortunes that had befell her, and 
 was expreffing his doubts as to the pofli- 
 bility of her reaching China, — when 1 at 
 once calmed his friendly apprehenfions, by 
 afluring him I myfelf commanded the Noot- 
 ka in that diftrefsful voyage which had ex- 
 cited his compaflion ; and that he beheld mc 
 engaged, at this moment, in an amicable 
 conteft with him for the favours of fortune. 
 His aftonifhment almoft fuperfeded his be- 
 lief on the occafion ; and, knowing what I 
 had fufFered in my former voyage, he could 
 fcarce conceive it to be within the reach of 
 poffibility, that I fliould bs already re-em- 
 
 • barked 
 
 mt*irf'^li¥'^-^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 3^3 
 
 barked in an adventure on the American 1788. 
 
 Coaf^* ^ AusuiT. 
 
 Tlie Prlncefs Royal had been out near 
 twenty mouths from Enghmd, and was in 
 want of many articles, without which it 
 is aftonifhing (he could have continued her 
 voyage. — Though haraffed with fatiguing 
 duty, and in a climate and feafon where the 
 feverity of the weather required the aid of 
 invigorating qordials, their ftock of liquors 
 had long been exhaufted. We were ex- 
 tremely happy in being able to fupply them 
 with a fmall quantity ; when Captain Dun- 
 can, in return, made us an unrcferved offer 
 of any thing his little veflel afforded *. 
 
 Deftined as we were to be employed on ' 
 
 a remote and unfrequented coaft, and liable 
 to all the hardihips and inclemencies of fuch 
 
 * On enquiring of Captain Duncan concerning his 
 <Iiftre(Ied condition, he told me that he had met Captain 
 Dixon, in the Queen Charlotte ; and though that (hip 
 vras on her return to China, and abundantly ftocked 
 with every thing ; and even though flie belonged to 
 the fame owners with the Princefs Royal, the provident 
 Commander thought it much better to carry all his ftotes 
 back to China, than to fpare any of them to the latter 
 veilel, though they would have been fo great an alle* 
 viation to the hardihips of her voyage. 
 
 ' X 2 a fitua- 
 
 /• 
 
^24 ••' VOVAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. actuation, we felt an equal fympathy for 
 AvcusT. our common allotment, and a mutual incli- 
 nation to relieve, as far our power extended, 
 the mutual inconveniencies of it. 
 
 We now feparated ; when the Princefs 
 . Royal purfued her courfe to the South South 
 Eaft, and we continued along fhore.— She 
 had nearly brought her voyage to a conclu- 
 lion, and was proceeding to the Sandwich 
 Iflands, to take in refrelhments, in order 
 to return to China with her valuable cargo 
 of furs. .V • -7 
 
 About nine o'clock in the evening the wind 
 ' veered to the Eaft by South, which was im- 
 mediately againft us, and obliged us to tack 
 and ftand to fea. 
 Sunday »o It was the morning of the loth before we 
 got down a-breaft of Port Cox> when we 
 found the Princefs Royal had a few hours 
 before arrived in a fmall bar harbour, where 
 , - our friend Hanna, the chief, refided. — Cap- 
 
 tain Duncan fent his boat off to us, as we 
 palled, to know if he fliould pilot us into 
 the harbour ; but as our intention was to 
 enter Port Cox, we contented ourfelves with 
 thanking him for his kind attentions His 
 . boat, however, accompanied us till we an- 
 chored 
 
 ) 
 
 A 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. -jC 
 
 chored in the inner port, about five o'clock 1788. 
 in the evening, when (he quitted us to re- Aucwst. 
 turn to her (hip ; pading through the chan« 
 nels between the iflands and the main, the 
 diftance being about fifteen miles. 
 
 The late Eaflerly winds had obliged the 
 Princefs Royal to (helter herfelf here, as 
 well as to procure (bme wood and water, 
 previous to her quitting the American coaft. 
 
 On our arrival in Port Cox, we found 
 that Wicanani(h had already removed to liis 
 winter quarters, which were up the harbour, 
 and at the diftance of between thirty and 
 forty miles from the (hip. 
 
 On the I ith, the long-boat was difpatched Mond^iy i j 
 to the chief, with prefents ; and in the even- 
 ing (he returned, having met him at a fmall ' ■ 
 fummer village, which w?.s fituated about 
 twenty miles from the (hip. He received the 
 part^ with every mark of the moft diftin- 
 gui(hing regard ; and, in return for our pre- 
 fent, fent on board forty otter (kins, of the 
 moft valuable fpecies; and was pleafed to 
 make known his further wi(h, that the boat 
 might be hereafter fent to his winter refi- 
 dence, whither he was then going, 
 
 X3 ... Ou 
 
 
 .j^ *■• y'^**^vi^^'v*' 
 
 , ^ . «^ ^, ^j, 
 
 'ffT' 
 
321 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. 
 
 August. 
 Tucltiay 12 
 
 On the 1 2th, though the weather was 
 but indifFerent, the long-boat was never- 
 thelcfs difpatched to Wicananifti, with a va- 
 riety of articles for trade, and fome flattering 
 prefents, amongft which the copper tea- 
 kettle which had already been mentioned to 
 him, was not forgotten, and whofe arrival 
 was eagerly expected by the whole family 
 of the chief. 
 Thurfday 14 The long-boat did not return till the 14th, 
 when the officer gave us the following ac- 
 count of his little voyage. 
 
 On the morning of the 13th he arrived 
 at Clioquatt, the winter refidence of Wica- 
 nanifh, which confifted, like the other towns, 
 . of fuch houfes as we have already defcribed, 
 but more commodioufly conftruded, poflef- 
 fing a greater fhare of their rude magnifi- 
 cence than any which we had yet feen. — 
 . It was very large and populous; and the 
 dwelling of die chief much more capacious 
 than that which he occupied in the village 
 - near th*e fea, when we firft vifited his ter- 
 
 • ritories. The inhabitants were, at this time, 
 
 * bufily employed in packing up fifh in mats, 
 — fecuriiig the roes of them in bladders,— 
 cutting whales into dices, and melting down 
 
 blubber 
 
 I'' 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 Z'^1 
 
 blubber into oil, which they poured into 1^88. 
 feal-lkins. — All this mighty preparation was Avgust 
 the provident fpirit of catering for the win- 
 ter: — and the incredible quantities of thefe 
 various provifions which our people faw col- 
 le£ted, promifed, at leaft, that famine would 
 not be an evil of the approaching feafon. 
 
 On thefe (hores the winter is the happy 
 portion of the year which is appropriated to 
 luxury and eafe ; nor are they then ever 
 aroufed into aftion, but to take fome of tliofe 
 enormous whales, which, at that feafon, fre- 
 quent their feas, in order to feafl: any of the 
 neighbouring chiefs who may come to vifit 
 them. 
 
 Wicananifli received all our prefents with 
 expreffions of extreme fiitisfaftion ; but the i \ 
 
 kettle was honoured with his peculiar at- 
 tention, and borne away by him with an . 
 air of triumph, to be placed among his 
 treafures; and wdth repeated declarations, . 
 that no confideration whatever (hould again 
 induce him to yield up fuch a valuable de- 
 pofit. Twelve brafs-hilted (words compofed 
 part of our offering, which were favoured \ 
 with the moft grateful admiration; and a 
 great variety of articles had been purpofely 
 
 X 4 ma« 
 
-28 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. manufa(flured to fuit the fancy of the wo-* 
 August, men, who vied with each other m their cor» 
 dial attentions to our people. A more hrifk, 
 trade was then carried on with tiie inhabit 
 tants than we had hitherto experienced ; a 
 confiderable quantity of furs were obt.iiiied, 
 and the boat returned well freighted with 
 the produce of the voyage, and her people 
 perfectly fatisfied with their reception from 
 Wicanani(h. 
 
 Though we had every reafon to be con- 
 tented with our commcrciaJ (uccefs, we de- 
 termined to fend another em bnfly, which, if 
 it did not produce any immediate advantage, 
 might leave thofe imprefiions that would 
 eftablifh a rooted interefl in our favour with 
 the chief and his people. The long-boat was 
 Monday 18 therefore, on the i8th, difpatched to the 
 town, to take our farewell meffage, and, 
 which was of more confequence, our fare- 
 well prefent to Wicananifli. Indeed we pro- 
 pofed, on this occafion, to prove the difin- 
 tereftednefs of our friendfhip, by feledling 
 fuch a variety of articles as would fuit evei^ 
 the mod varying fancy of this fickle people. 
 • — ^To thefe were alfo added feveral coats, 
 profufely trinimed with buttons, and the 
 
 hea4 
 
 K «t- 
 
""P! 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 329 
 
 head of a large copper ftlll. This fumptuous i ygg. 
 prefent was ordered to be made on our part August. 
 with a ftridt prohibition not to receive any 
 thing in return. 
 
 The boat returned on the evening of the 
 19th, having pundlually executed our or- 
 ders ; and having brought a meflage from 
 the chief, that he propofed to vifit the ihip 
 the next day ; and therefore defired us to 
 defer our departure for the purpofe of re- 
 ceiving him. 
 
 On tlie 20th, we were accordingly vifitedWcdncfday»o 
 by Wicananifh, attended by his brother, his 
 two fons, three of his wives, and a great 
 number of people from the town, who at- 
 tended their chief, in order to gain another 
 opportunity of trading with us; and no fmall 
 quantity of furs were, at this time, procured 
 from them. The chief, however, prefented 
 us with feveral fea otter (kins of the moft 
 valuable kind ; and, though there was every 
 realbn to believe that he intended to rival us 
 in gencrofity, by refuliiig to receive any re- 
 turn, he could not bring himlelf to fend back 
 acoupleof mulkets and a quantity of ammu- 
 nition ; which were too tempting to be re- 
 fifled by the delicacy of his fentiments, and 
 
 might 
 
 ■V 
 
 \ 
 
 1 
 
 ' 
 
 ->«*.vfc.*i-i. -•*»♦*. r*"" 
 
^qo VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. ^^g^^* prove too ufeful in defending himfelf 
 August, againft his powerful neighbour, Tatootche, 
 not to be received with the moft grateful 
 fatisfa(5tion. He cnquiied, in the moft affec- 
 tionate manner, how many moons would 
 pafs away before our return ; and folicited 
 us, in the ftrongeft manner, to prefer his 
 port and harbour to every other. 
 
 One of his fons, a young man of about 
 nineteen years of age, exprefll d a very earneft 
 defire to depart with us; but this offer we 
 thought imprudent to decline, from a re- 
 colledlion of the anxiety we had fuffered 
 on a former occafion, by receiving even the 
 amiable Tianna to our care and prott (flion. 
 This youth was the moft pleafing, in his 
 figure and appearance, of any perfon we had 
 fcen on the American coaft. He not only 
 appeared to be very quick and fagacious, but 
 to poffefs an amiable and docile difpofition ; 
 and we do not doubt, had he vifited L hina, 
 ;/ but that he would have returned with far 
 
 :, different qualifications than Comekela, to 
 
 improve and adorn his country. 
 
 Wicananifh and his people left us with 
 every token of fincere regret, and repeated 
 entreaties that we would foon return. — 
 
 Having 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 33^ 
 
 Having bid thefe generous people farewell, r^88. 
 we put to fea in the evening of the 20th ; August. 
 and, without any material occurrence, an- 
 chored fafe on the 24th, in our old fituation 
 in King George's Sound. Our abfence had 
 now occupied Co (hort a fpace of time, that 
 we felt nothing of that anxiety for our party 
 at Nootka which we had experienced on our 
 former feparation. We found them all well, 
 and the veflel confiderably advanced. The 
 carpenters had nearly planked her up, and 
 her fituation was fuch, that we propofed 
 launching her on the 20th of September. 
 
 The exiled crew remained in the fame 
 unpleafant fituation in which we had left 
 them. Grief, pain and remorfe had, we ^ , 
 believe, been their conftant companions, 
 fince they were baniflied from the Ihip; — 
 at leaft their appearance was fuch as to juf- ' 
 tify us in forming fuch an opinion: and 
 when the Felice entered Friendly Cove, we 
 obferved, as they viewed her from the beach, 
 that the fight of her feemed, in fome degree, 
 to enliven their dejedled countenances. 
 
 The time now approached when we had 
 every reafon to expe«3: the Iphigenia, ac- 
 cording to the inllrudtions given her at our 
 
 lepa- 
 
 . ^ ^ ». -*,., * • . 
 
--^ VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788 feparatlon. — We began to feel that anxiety 
 AwcuiT. for her fate, which we, who knew the dan- 
 gers fhe had to encounter, muft naturally 
 feel, when day after day paiTed on, and we 
 faw no appearance of her. Our anxious 
 eyes were continually wandering over the 
 fea that wafhed the American Coafl, in 
 fearch of thofe fails which might mark the 
 approach of our friends ; but for fome time 
 nothing was feen but a vaft expanfe of wa- 
 ter, unenlivened by any object but, now 
 and then, the folitary canoe of a Nootka 
 fiiherman. Thus alternately governed by 
 hope and fear, by the expedlation of foon 
 feeing our companions again, and the ap- 
 , prehenfions of never feeing them more, we 
 paffed thebufy part of our time ; and, when 
 our occupations were over, we ufed, in the 
 evening, to walk on the (hore, at the back 
 of Friendly Cove, and interchange thofe 
 refledtions which had occurred in filence, 
 during the labours and employment of the 
 day. 
 
 In our evening walk on the 26th, while 
 we were communicating our thoughts, and 
 repeating our vaticinations concerning the 
 Iphigenia, to our infinite joy a fail was feen 
 
 in 
 
 ^-. ^i.. — "— * -- . '-h4fv.'j[ 'itlx ""-" 
 
 [.5*»vj-«*';:'s:,'«i"- 
 
^>J».'s:' 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 03^ 
 
 in the offing, which we were willing to I788, 
 conclude could be no other than that which August. 
 we expected ; and, indeed, fo it proved ; for, 
 on the 27th in the morning, (he anchored Wednrfday»i 
 in Friendly Cove. * 
 
 Such a meeting as this, obtained, as it de- 
 ferved, a general celebration ; and orders 
 were accordingly given that all ^work of 
 every kind (hould be fufpended; that it 
 might be a day of reft to the body, as well 
 as of joy to the mind.^In fhort our little ju- 
 bilee, on a diftant and dreary coaft, was paf^ 
 fed with a degree of fatisfa£tion and de- 
 light which the fplendid feftivities of po- 
 lifhed nations have not always known. The 
 relation of dangers that were paft, — the 
 pleafing renewals of private friendfliip, — the 
 fuccefs which had attended our hazardous 
 expeditions, — and the fair profpeft that we 
 (hould return home to enjoy the fruits of 
 them, formed the fubjedls of our eager 
 difcourfe ; while the happy hours were en- 
 livened by convivial mirth and focial plea- 
 fure. 
 
 It was, as may be well conceived, a great 
 
 addition to our happinefs that the crew of 
 
 the Iphigenia were entirely recovered from 
 
 3 the 
 
 i 1 
 
 •/o-t^^&'^tML 
 
 '; ''?flfl?'WI^!^**''^'^'p!^*' 
 
I I 
 
 't 
 
 t { 
 
 I ; 
 
 224 rOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. the diforder which threatened them, at thd 
 August, time of OUT fepaiatioii, and now joined 
 us in full health and vigour. The joy of 
 Tianna at the fight of thofe friends whom 
 he had left with fuch poignant marks of 
 / regret, was of a nature to delight all who 
 
 beheld the warm efFufions of his grateful, 
 mind, but cannot be conveyed to thofe who 
 did not behold it by any language of mine. 
 Nor were we infenfible to the pleafure of 
 feeing him reftored to us, fo entirely reco- 
 vered from a diforder which had filled us ' 
 with apprehcnfion that we (hould never (ee 
 him again. Indeed, from the general change 
 in his looks, and ftill wearing his fur cap • 
 and other warm cloathing, with which he 
 had clad hlmfclf, during the cold feafon, 
 while the Iphigenia was in Prince William's 
 Sound and Cook's River, — we did not im- 
 mediately recognize the chief ; butthevio* 
 , lence of his joy fbon difcovered him to us ; / 
 
 and though it might be more expreffive, it 
 was not more fincere than our own. Indeed, 
 fuch had ever been the conciliating power of 
 his manners, that there was not a feaman 
 in either fliip, that did not love Tianna as 
 himfelf. 
 
 Wc 
 
 i; ' ( 
 
 h.y^ 
 
 I in t mtm 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 335 
 
 We had fuppofed that his fatisfa<f\Ion on 1788. 
 feeing us once again, was compleat ; but we August. 
 found it ftill capable of increafe ; — for when 
 he was informed that we propofed, in a 
 very fhort time, to proceed to the Sandwich 
 Iflands, — his expreffions of delight knew no 
 bounds; — they were wild, fantaftic and ex- 
 ceflive ; and it was fome time before they 
 funk into that ftate of moderation which 
 qualified him to receive any frefli impref- 
 fions of pleafure. The new vefl'el was re- 
 fer ved for that purpofe ; and when it was 
 pointed out, and he was made acquainted 
 with its obje£t, he regarded it with fuch a 
 firm and fixed attention, as if his eyes would 
 have darted from their fockets to the veflel : 
 and till (he was launched, he continued the 
 conftant companion of the carpenters, ex- 
 amining their operations and obferving their 
 progrefs. We encouraged this difpofition; 
 and it is fcarcely to be credited how much 
 of a carpenter's profeffion he learned during 
 the (hort time we remained at King George's 
 Sound. 
 
 On the 27th, whe we were vlfiti ng the 
 village, Maquilla and Callicum returned 
 from their war expedition ; and, on entering 
 
 the 
 
 I I 
 
 : 
 
 l*Mim"<i""'''1ii 
 
 iimT?" *iii»''"'i»i iirifii 
 
 "iii ^ Mi<ihwtii<'» ■- 
 
I 
 
 2^6 • VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. the Sound, their little army gave the flioiit of 
 AuouiT. vidory. They certainly had obtained fome 
 advantages, as they brought home in their 
 canoes feveral balkets, which they would 
 not open in our prefence, and were fufpedled 
 by us, as it afterwards proved, by the con- 
 fefllon of Callicum, to contain the heads of 
 enemies whom they had {lain in battle, to 
 the amount of thirty ; but this victory was 
 not purchafed without fome lofs on the fide 
 of the powers of Nootka. 
 
 The chiefs now returned the arms they 
 had received from us, but the ammunition 
 was entirely expended : — we perceived, in- 
 deed, that the mulkets had been fired feveral 
 times ; and Callicum affured us that they 
 » had taken ample vengeance for the hoftilities 
 exercifed againfl them ; and had, befidcs, ' 
 made a great booty of fea- otter (kins, in 
 which they were all arrayed. 
 
 The Sandwich Ifland Chief did not, as we 
 firft expelled, difcover any furprife at the 
 fight of Maquilla and his army ; but the fre- 
 quent communication of the Iphigenia with 
 ' the natives along the coaft, from Cook's 
 River to King George's Sound, had rendered 
 them and their manners no longer an object 
 
 . »( 
 
 ' t 
 
 . T' 
 
 y-'.<<lHlilt*M**i«tSiii»<y»ili>^^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 3^1 
 
 hout o^ 
 d feme 
 [I their 
 would 
 ifpedted 
 tie con- 
 icads of 
 ttle, to 
 ory was 
 the fide 
 
 ns they 
 [lunition 
 ved, in- 
 J feveral 
 lat they 
 oftilities 
 befides, ' 
 ^uis, iu 
 
 ►t, as we 
 
 ; at the 
 
 the fre- 
 
 ia with 
 
 Cook's 
 
 endered 
 
 n obje£t 
 
 of 
 
 of novelty, as they had never been an obje«5l 1788. 
 of confideration in the eyes of Tianna. In- Auoust. 
 deed, when he, with his fine coloflal figure, 
 flood by Maqiiilla, who was rather of a low 
 ftature, the diflference was fuch, as not only 
 to ftrike every beholder, but even to afl^edt 
 themfelves with the different fenfations of 
 an exulting or a wounded pride, which 
 would prevent any very cordial afFedlion from 
 taking place between them. Tianna and 
 Comckela were old acquaintance, but by no 
 means intimate friends, as the former held 
 the latter in a very low degree of eftimation ; 
 and, accordingly, we did not obferve any 
 very cordial appearance of joy at their pre- 
 fent meeting. As Comekela had been at 
 the Sandwich Iflands, on his firft leaving 
 America, the (hip having flopped there for 
 refrefhments, he was qualified to give Ma- 
 quilla an account not only of Tianna, but 
 the country from whence he came, and he 
 did it probably to the difadvantage of both. 
 At all events, Tianna held the cufloms of ; 
 
 Nootka in deteflation ; and could not bear 
 the idea of their cannibal appetites, withou* 
 cxprefling the mofl violent fenfations of dif- 
 gufl and abhorrence. 
 Vol. I. T In. 
 
a-^g VOYAGES iO THE 
 
 1788. Indeed, there was no comparifon to be 
 August, made between the inhabitants and cuftoms 
 of the Sandwich Iflands and thofe among 
 whom we now refided, or of any part of the 
 continent of America. — The former are their 
 fuperiors in every thing that regards what 
 we ihould call the comforts of life, and 
 their approach to civilization. They attend 
 to a circumftance which particularly diftin- 
 guifhes polished from favage life, and that 
 » is cleanlinefs : — they are not only clean to 
 an extreme in their food, but alfo in their 
 perfons and houfes the fame happy difpo- 
 fition prevails : — while the North Weftern 
 Americans are nafty to a degree that rivals 
 the moft filthy brutes, and, of courfe, pro- 
 hibits any defcription from us. Indeed, the 
 very difgufling nature of their food is not 
 diminiihed by the manner in which it is* 
 eaten, or rather devoured. — Befides, their 
 being cannibals, if no other circumftance of 
 inferiority could be produced, throws them 
 to a vail diftance from the rank which is 
 held in the fcale of human being by the 
 countrymen of Tianna : nor ihould we pafs 
 over in this place the frequent and folemn 
 declarations of this chief, that the liatives of 
 
 the 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 339 
 
 the Sandwich Iflands poiiefs the moft ab- 1788^ 
 horrent fentlments of cannibal nature; and auowix.. 
 though they may immolate human beings 
 on the altars of their deity, they have not 
 the leaft idea of making fuch a facrifice to 
 their own appetites. Indeed, we truft it 
 will not prove a vain hope^ that thefe amiable 
 people may foon be taught to abandon even 
 their religious inhumanity ; and that near 
 half a million of human beings, inhabiting 
 the Sandwich Iflands, may one day be ranked 
 among the civilized fubje^ts of the Britiih 
 empire. 
 
 
 1 1. 
 
 Y» 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 *^ \' 
 
340 
 1788. 
 
 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 h I 
 
 hi 
 
 ^he Crew of the Iphigenia employed on the new 
 FeJfeU — j4rrangetnents made relative to the 
 Ships* — Inhabitants prepare to retire to their 
 IVinter garters, — Difpojitions relative td the 
 exiled Part of the Crew, who are again re- 
 
 ■: ceived on board, on certain Conditions, — Ma- 
 quilla and Callicam pay us a Vifit previous 
 
 fe . to their Departure* — Prefents made to thefe 
 
 r. Chitfs., — T/> Sagacity of the latter, — A Sail 
 feen in the Offing, — Boat fe Jit out to ajjift her, 
 ^-'The Wapington enters the Sound,'^Some 
 Account of her Voyage, ^c, — I'he new Vejfel 
 named and launched, — A Crew appointed to 
 hr, — Orders delivered to the Iphigenia. — 
 T^anna embarks onboard her,-^—Efcape of the 
 degraded Boatfwain ; — Affifled by the Majier 
 of the IVafJjingtan, — ^iit King George's 
 Sound, and proceed to the Sandwich IJlands, 
 
 'T^HE arrival of the Iphigenia infufed not 
 only into our minds new life and fpi- 
 rits, but enabled us to proceed in our dif- 
 ferent operations with redoubled vigour. — 
 We now formed a very ftrong party ; and, 
 
 there- 
 
JL 
 
 "t-m- 
 
 -)€ new 
 to the 
 to their 
 le to the 
 ain re- 
 — Ma-' 
 previous 
 to thefe 
 -A Sail 
 fiftber. 
 -^—Some 
 V Fejel 
 nnted to 
 enta. — 
 >e of the 
 Majier 
 7eorge's 
 /lands, 
 
 fed not 
 id fpi- 
 )ur dif- 
 ^our. — 
 ; and, 
 there- 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 therefore, had no doubt of being able to 
 launch the veflel by the time we propofed. 
 
 The voyage of the Iphigenia had alfo 
 afforded us additional and very promifing 
 expedlations of rendering the North Weft 
 Coaft of America a very important commer- 
 cial ftation. She had very completely coafted 
 the American Ihore, from Cook's River to 
 King George's Sound, and had brought us 
 the moft indubitable proofs of the exiftence 
 of the Great Northern Archipelago: — But 
 this new, important, and very interefting 
 obje£t has already, we truft, fatisfied the at- 
 tention of our readers, in one of the intro- 
 ductory Memoirs prefixed to this volume. 
 
 The artificers of the Iphigenia were im- 
 mediately employed to afiift thofe of the 
 Felice in forwarding the completion ot the 
 veffel. Indeed, they rather felt a jealoufy 
 on feeing: the works we had formed ; which 
 adled as a ftimulative to take an a£tive (hare 
 in the honour of them : fo that the bullnefs 
 of our temporary dock promifed a very 
 fpeedy completion. Nor were the feamen 
 idle : fome were added to the rope-makers, 
 and others ftrengthened the party appointed 
 to cut down fpars for prefent ule ; and, in 
 
 y 3 parti- 
 
 341 
 
 1788. 
 
 August. 
 
 -'•*«»-.>TB<*»»»\ 
 
 **.j)^4 
 
 ' ♦■.■•..- 
 

 ki^ 
 
 2^2 VOYAGES TO THB 
 
 1788. particular, to procure a new fore*maft for 
 August, the Felice, who, as we have related, had 
 fprung her*s very foon after our departure 
 from Samboingaii. 
 
 The feafon for retiring from the American 
 con ft was now approaching; and we had 
 fufficient bulinefs on our hands to fill up the 
 interval. Not only the new veflel was to 
 be launched, manned, and equipped for a 
 voyage of near fifteen hundred leagues, but 
 the two fhips were alfo to be prepared for 
 fea; and when our (ituation, as well as the 
 - nature of our refources are confidered, we 
 
 muft be allowed to have had no fmall diffi- 
 culties to encounter ; and that,*from having 
 conquered them, we have fbme claim, at 
 leafl, to i'he praife that is due to unremitting 
 induflry, and rcfolute perfeverance. 
 
 A new fult of fails was foon completed 
 for the vei!l°:l on the flocks, which, as fhe 
 was to be rigged as a fchooner, was the 
 more readily accomplifhed ; but, independent 
 of her florm-fails, this was all we could do 
 for her in that branch of rigging. 
 
 Being, however, thus far, and thus hap- 
 pily advanced in our feveral preparations for 
 our approaching voyages, it becan^e a matter 
 
 of 
 
 
343 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 of immediate confideration to form the ne- 1788. 
 ceflary arrangements of the two (hips, not August. 
 only for the prefent feafon, but alfo for the 
 cnfuing year. A very valuable cargo of furs 
 had been colle<Sted, which it was our intereft 
 to tranfport to market with all poflible dif- 
 patch ;— it was, therefore, determined that 
 the Felice, as foon as the new veflel was 
 launched, (hould direftly proceed to China; 
 and that the Iphigenia, with the fchooiier, 
 ihould remain to profecute the general ob- 
 jefts of our commerce. 
 
 This arrangement being fettled, every 
 exertion was immediately made to prepare 
 the Felice for fea. For this purpofe the 
 fail-makers began upon her rigging, and the • 
 caulkers applied themfelves to her upper- 
 works, which, as well as her bends, were 
 very leaky. As it was more than probable 
 that we (hould enter tiie China Teas at a very 
 tempeftuous feafon of the year, we were 
 very attentive to the making every neceflary 
 provilion for that, as we did for every other 
 poflible exigency of the voyage. In fliort, 
 we followed up this bufinefs with fuch un- 
 remitting and a£live induftry, that by theg^p^jj^p^^ 
 4th of September the (hip was ready for fea, Thurfday 4 
 
 Y 4 having 
 
 I 
 
 \f 
 
244 VOYAGESTOTHE 
 
 1788. having got her head fore-maft in, and being 
 SEi'TBMBER. Completely ftored with wood and water. 
 
 The natives now began to make prepara- 
 tions for retiring from their prefent fituatlon 
 into the more interior part of the Sound ; 
 and we daily faw fome of their embarkations, 
 which we have defcribed in a former chap*: 
 ter. On the 7th, Maquilla and Callicum 
 paid us a vifit, to notify in form, that, in a 
 few days, they, with all their people, (hould 
 • remove to the winter refidence, which was 
 
 near 30 miles from the (hip, and as many 
 from the fea. 
 
 On receiving this information, we thought 
 it incumbent on us to form fome difpofitions 
 concerning the exiled crew. Their fufFer- 
 iiigs applied themfelves very forcibly to our 
 piry ; and the humility of their folicita- 
 tions, with their imploring promifes of fu- 
 ture fidelity and good behaviour, were not 
 without their efFed. But it required all the 
 reflc6lio> we could beftow on the fubje^t, 
 to form a right judgment how to a.&. in a 
 crifis where individual feeling, and profef- 
 fional duty had much to fettle, before .a 
 final decifion could be made. The leaviiig 
 . theie unhappy people behind, might have 
 
 been 
 
A. 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. g^e 
 
 been con (idered as cruelty to them; and the 1788. 
 receivhig men on board, the return of whofeSEPXEMBEt. 
 darmg and mutinous fpirit would, to fay no 
 worfe, impede, if not wholly interrupt the 
 voyage, — might turn out cruelty to our- 
 felves. 
 
 They had, it is tr\ie, fuffered very feverely 
 for their paft mi..ondLi6l; and when they 
 were fummoned to hear our final determina- 
 tion concerning them, their pale counte- 
 nances and deje(5led looks, accompanied by 
 the moil al)je£l declarations of repentance, 
 difarmed us, at once, of all our refentment ; 
 and they were received into the (hip on con- 
 fenting to forfeit the wages already due to 
 them for nine months fervice,and that their 
 future pay (hould be proportioned to their 
 future good behaviour. To thefe conditions 
 they joyfully fubmitted, and once more 
 joined their comrades, after an interval, in 
 which they had known nothing but morti- 
 fication and diflrefs. The power which was 
 exercifed in depriving thefe men of the wages 
 due to them previous to their villainous at- 
 tempt to feize the (hip, was founded in 
 ftridl jullice : for, without confidering the 
 wickednefs of their defign, and the fatal 
 
 con-j 
 
 \Lr'^ 
 
 1: "'" 
 
 • I 
 
2^5 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. confequences which would have attended 
 sirTBMBER. the completion of it, their having prevented 
 the (hip from putting to fea, for the benefit 
 of their employers, by which interruption a 
 confiderable lofs was fuflained, was alone 
 fufficient to juftify an a(St, which would make 
 them (harers in the lofs that they had oc- 
 cafioned. 
 
 On our arrival at China, however, the 
 whole of the wages which they had for- 
 feited, was beftowed upon them by the com- 
 miferating generofity of the owners. 
 
 We could not, after all, exercife too much 
 precaution in again receiving thefe dangerous 
 people amongft us. We indulged our dif- 
 pofitions to lenity with an apprehenfive 
 fatisfa£lion ; and, in order to leflTen the 
 poflibility of mifclnef, we diftributed them 
 among the two crews, which leflened, at 
 leaft, the power of communication with each 
 other. The boatfwain, whofe condud had 
 been marked with previous difobedience, and 
 who was the ringleader of the mutiny, was 
 excepted from the general amnefty. It was 
 thought to be neceffary, at all events, to 
 make him an example ; more particularly 
 as we now difcovered that he had added theft 
 
 to 
 
 P-TT 
 
 5.SH!ea*9l_ 
 
^ * 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA. 
 
 347 
 
 to his other offences. He was accordingly 1788. 
 put under conHnennent in the houfe on {here, septembk*. 
 
 Thus was this very dlfagreeable bufinefs 
 finally fettled : but had we been lefs fortu- 
 nate in the firft difcovery of the mutiny ;— 
 in fhort, had we been at fuch a diflance 
 from the (hip, as not to have heard the firft 
 alarm on the occafion, the confequences 
 would certainly have been deftrudive of the 
 voyage, aud might have proved fatal to our- 
 felves. 
 
 • Maquilla and Calllcum now came to take 
 their farewell of us, as they were going to 
 depart for the place of their winter refidence, 
 and delivered themfelves on the occafion in 
 the warmeft language, and with the mofl 
 expreflive looks of friendfliip. They knew 
 that we were fhortly to quit their coafl, and 
 exprefli'ed very afft^tionate wiflies for our 
 return. Maquilla entreated us again and 
 again, whenever we propofed to get the little 
 mamatlee or (hip into the water, to fend to 
 him, and he would come down with all his 
 people to give us the neceflfary afliftance. 
 They had, indeed, been conftantly antici- 
 pating the difficulty that would attend us, as 
 they exprelied themfelves, in pufhing the 
 3 vefTel 
 
 I' 
 
 1 
 
 .K 
 
 \ 
 
 ) I 
 
 
 V 
 
 A' 
 
 »:'^' 
 
 .# 
 
 ■Sf| 
 
 vV- 
 
i 
 
 -.g VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. vefTel into the water, whenever (he fhould 
 Sbftember. be compleated. Thefe chiefs had paid a very 
 regular attention to theprogrefs of her con- 
 ftrudion, from the very beginning, to her 
 prefent flate of approaching completion ; 
 but without difcovering any thing like the 
 intelligence which grew up, as it were, and 
 daily unfolded itfelf in the mind of Tianna, 
 Whatever opinion, therefore, we had 
 formed of the capacity ' of thefe chiefs for 
 the fentiments of friendftiip, we thought it 
 prudent, with a view to our future interefts, 
 as prefents had firft obtained it, to fecure 
 the continuance of it, if polfible, by the 
 fame prevailing influence. — We accordingly 
 prefented Maquilla with a mulket, a fmall 
 quantity of ammunition, and a few blan- 
 kets. Nor did Callicum leave us without 
 receiving equal tokens of our regard. 
 
 We made thefe chiefs fcnfible in how 
 many moons we fhould return to them ; and 
 that we (hould then be accompanied by 
 others of our countrymen, and build more 
 houfes, and endeavour to introduce our man- 
 ners and mode of living to the practice of 
 our Nootka friends. — This information 
 feemed to delight them beyond meafure; 
 
 and 
 
 iL- 
 
 ■*'*.«i™., V— . 
 
 
 jasfc ■■ ;■ —'S ; 
 
 tr»*-«-- 
 
 Ut#^M^.~A^Hj 
 
**% 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 349 
 
 and they not only promifed us great plenty 1788. 
 of furs on our return, but Maquilla thought September, 
 proper, on the inflant, to do obedience to us 
 as his lords and fovereigns. He took off his 
 tiara of feathers, and placed it on my head ; 
 he then drefled me in his robe of otter- (kins ; 
 and, thus arrayed, made me (it down on 
 one of his chefts filled with human bones, 
 and then placed himfelf on the ground. His 
 example was followed by all the natives pre- 
 fent, when they fung one of thofe plaintive 
 fongs, which we have already mentioned as 
 producing fuch a folemn and pleafing elTeA 
 upon our minds. — Such were the forms by 
 which he intended to acknowledge, in the 
 prefence of his people, our fuperiority over 
 him. — We now once more took our leave, 
 and returned on board the (hip, clad in regal ^ 1 
 
 attire, and poffefl'ed of fovereign power. — 
 We had, however, fcarcely left the chief, 
 when Callicum came running after us, to 
 particularife his commiflions, and repeat his 
 adieu. — There was fomething about this man 
 fo amiable and afFe£lionate, that I wiihed to 
 remain with him to the laft ; and I cannot 
 help relating every trifling circumflance in 
 this final interview. — He enumerated a long 
 
 lift 
 
 y 
 
 F^^6tt^i«■ 
 
 — <»»»*s>Mr~- 
 
2^Q VOYAGES TO THB 
 
 1788. liA of articles, that he delired us to bring 
 SirTiMBiR. him when we fhould return ; all of which 
 I took down in writing, to his entire fatis^ 
 fa^^ion. Shoes, flockings, an hat, and other 
 articles of our drefs, were mofl particularly 
 requeued by him ; and, when I returned 
 him my afTurance that his wiihes (hould be 
 gratified in the moft ample manner, he im- 
 mediately departed, after having taken me 
 round the neck, and given me a mod affec- 
 tionate embrace. I felt it then, when I hoped 
 to fee him again; — and I feel it now— when 
 I too well know I ihall fee him no more. 
 
 Poor Callicum had now, as at every former 
 period, made known his wants in a particular 
 manner to me ; but I afterwards found that 
 the whole village had, more or lefs, charged 
 the memories of our people, as well officers 
 as feamen, with their various commildions : 
 -—nor did the ladies of Nootka forget to make 
 their claim to our remembrance of them. 
 And here I cannot but mention, with fbme 
 degree of pleafure, though mingled, I muft 
 own, with a preponderating fenfation of 
 pain, that, on our part, all their feveral com- 
 miifions were moft minutely executed. The 
 Argonaut contained them all ; as alfo the 
 
 ieveral 
 
 i. 
 
 :.:t 
 
 t-ri- 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OP AMERICA. 
 
 35« 
 
 fevcral prefents to Maquilla, C.illicum, Wi- 1788. 
 cananiHi, and the other chiefs to the South- sirTSMsiR. 
 ward of King George's Souiul, known by 
 us, as well as thofe to the Northward of it, 
 who had been dilcovered by the Iphigenia. 
 The whole of which treafurc had been fe- 
 ledled and adapted with great care, and the 
 inoft anxious attention to their fancies, as 
 well as their neceflities, when (hn was np- 
 tured by the Spaniards. 
 
 It might be confidered, perhaps, as. teAid- •* 
 
 ing to leffen tl.»e abhorrent idea ;/h''ch every 
 Englifliman (hould feel, anr* of wJilch I, 
 above all others, (hould be ferjllblc, rolptc'c- 
 ing the audacious and crue) conJudl or the 
 Spanish officer, by mentioning th' fal- or- 
 dinate difappointment I felt, when 1 rei^c(?>:;^d 
 that Maquilla and Callicum did nof enjoy 
 their harmlefs pride in thofc diiflcs ivhich 
 had been prepared for them; itL\d thai' the 
 coffers of Wicananifli were not rilled \vit[;^ 
 thofe vefleh which had been exprefsly, r,nd 
 at no little trouble, obtained to enrich thera. 
 I (hall therefore pafs over the c urJons caro^o 
 provided for our Nootka friends, of v/hich 
 we and they were robbed by the Spani(h 
 commander; nor dfilribe the quantity of 
 
 . i , caft- 
 
 ■^ I 
 
 ,'» <-,;>->>it 
 
I ■ 
 
 jrj VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 ,-88. caft-ofF deaths, that we had collefted at 
 SiPTEMBER. China, and loaded with buttons to fuit their 
 fancy ; and of which the Spaniards poffeffed 
 themfelves with fuch avidity, as if they 
 were in want of this wardrobe, which was 
 deftined for the favages of Nootka, tocloath 
 far greater barbarians. 
 
 Comekela, of whom we never entertained 
 a very favourable opinion, and of whofe de- 
 ' ceitful conduct we had ample proof, not* 
 withftanding our kindnefs to him, while he 
 was at China, during his voyage from thence* 
 and after his return to Nootka, confirmed 
 us in our opinion of his ingratitude, by 
 leaving the Sound, without Ihewing us the 
 ' ^ leafl mark of attention or refpedt: — He 
 therefore loft, as he deferved, the prefent 
 which was refer ved for him ; and we fuf- 
 fered him to depart without any token of 
 remembrance from us. 
 Wcdnefdayi7 We Continued our operations, without the 
 intervention of any particular circumftance, 
 till the 1 7th of September, when a fail was 
 feen in the offing, which rather furprized 
 us ; and we were not without ourapprehen- 
 fions that it was the Princefs Royal, who 
 had met with foms accident that obliged her 
 
 to 
 
 n 
 
 If 
 
 u 
 
 i 
 
?aed at 
 ait their 
 )offe(red 
 if they 
 ich was 
 
 cloath 
 
 ertained 
 lofe de- 
 )f, not* 
 ^hile he 
 thence^ 
 
 1 firmed 
 de, by 
 ; us the 
 
 :— He 
 
 prefent 
 
 ve fuf- 
 
 >ken of 
 
 out the 
 iftance, 
 ail was 
 rprized 
 )rehen- 
 l, who 
 jed her 
 to 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 2C3 
 
 to return. The long-boat was immediately 1788. 
 fent to her afliftance, which, inftead of the September. 
 Britifli veflel we expe£ted, conveyed into the 
 Sound a floop, named the Walhington, from 
 Bofton in New England, of about one hun- 
 dred tons burthen. 
 
 Mr. Grey, the mafter, informed us, that 
 he had failed in company with his confort, 
 the Columbia, a Ihip of three hundred tons, 
 in the month of Auguft, 1787, being equip- 
 ped, under the patronage of Congrefs, to 
 examine the Coaft of America, and to open 
 a fur-trade between New England and this 
 part of the American Continent, in order 
 to provide funds for their China (hips, to 
 enable them to return home teas and China 
 goods. Thefe veflels were feparated in an / j ; 
 
 heavy gale of wind, in the latitude of 59° 
 South, and had not feen each other fince the 
 period of their feparation ; — but as King 
 George*s Sound was the place of rendezvous 
 appointed for them, the Columbia, if Ihe 
 was fafe, was every day expe£ted to join her 
 confort at N cot k a. 
 
 Mr. Grey informed us that he had put 
 
 into an harbour on the Coaft of New Albion, 
 
 where he got on fhore, and was in danger of 
 
 V01-. I. Z ' being 
 
 '%-d 
 
 • y<V' 
 
*^4 VOYAGES TO THE . " 
 
 1788 being loft on the bar : he was alfo attacked 
 September, by the natives, had one man killed, and one 
 of his officers wounded, and thought himfelf 
 fortunate in having been able to make his 
 cfcape. This harbour could only admit vef- 
 fels of a very fmall fize, and muft lie fome- 
 where near the Cape to which we had 
 given the name of Cape Look-out. 
 
 The m.ifter of the Wafhington was very 
 much furpriz'ed at feeing a veflel on the 
 ftock-i, as well as on finding any one here 
 before him ; for they had little or no notion 
 of ajiy commercial expeditions whatever to 
 this part of America. He appeared, how- 
 ever, to be very fanguine in the fuperior ad- 
 vantages which his countrymen from New 
 . England might reap from this track of 
 ;. trade ; and was big with many mighty pro- 
 jeds, in which we underftood he was pro- 
 tected by the American Congrefs. With 
 thefe circumftances, however, as we had no 
 immediate concern, we did not even intrude 
 an opinion, but treated Mr. Grey and his 
 lliip's company with politenefs and att:en- 
 tlon. 
 Saturday 20 On the 20th, at noon, an event, to which 
 we had fo long looked with anxious expec- 
 ' i ' tation, 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA; 
 
 355 
 
 tation, and had been the fruit of fo much 1788. 
 care and labour, was ripe for accompliih- September, 
 ment.- The veflel was then waiting to quit 
 the ftocks ; and to give ^ll due honour to 
 fuch an important fcencj we adopted, as far 
 as was in our power, the ceremony of other 
 dock yards.— As foon as the tide was at its 
 proper height, the Englilh enfign was dif- 
 played on (hore at the houfe, and on board 
 the new veflel, which, at the proper mo- 
 ment, was named the North Weft America, 
 as being the firft bottom ever built and 
 launched in this part of the globe* 
 
 It was a moment of much expeftation. 
 — The circumftances of our lituacion made 
 us look to it with more than common hope. 
 — Maquilla, Callicum, and a large body of 
 their people, who had received information 
 of the launch, were come to behold it. The 
 Chine fe carpenters did not very well con- 
 ceive the laft operation of a bufinefs in which 
 they themfelves had been fo much and fb 
 materially concerned. Nor (hall we forget to 
 miention the Chief of the Smdwich Iflands, 
 whofe every power was abforbcd in the bu- 
 finefs that approached, and who had dcter- 
 mined to be on board the veflll when (lie 
 . . y Z 2 glided 
 
 li 
 
 V*-"' * ' . ' " ■~« ii" ■ 
 
^^5 VOYAGES TO THE '^ » 
 
 1788. gWded Into the water. The prefence of the 
 siPTEMBER. Americans ought alfo to be confidered, when 
 we are defcribing the attendant ceremonies 
 of this important crifis ; which, from the 
 labour that produced it, — the fcene that fur- 
 rounded it, — the fpedtators that beheld it, 
 and the commercial advantages, as well as 
 civilizmg ideas, connefted with it, will at- 
 tach fome little confeqoence to its proceed- 
 ing, in the mind of the philofopher, as well 
 as in the view of the politician. 
 
 But our fufpenfe was not of long duration ; 
 — on the firing of a gun, the veffel ftarted 
 fiom the ways like a (hot. —Indeed {he went 
 off with fo much velocity, that fhe had near- 
 ly made her way out of the harbour ; for 
 the fa£t was, that not being very much ac- 
 cuftomed to this bufinefs, we had forgotten 
 to place an anchor and cable on board, to 
 bring her up, which is the ufual pra(SliiEe on 
 thefe occaiions : the boats, however, foon 
 towed her to her intended ftation ; and in a 
 Ihort time the North Weft America was 
 anchored clofe to the Iphigenia and the 
 • Felice. . . . ^ : -■ . - .■■:-; V - 
 
 Tianna, who was on board the veffel at 
 the time of her being launched, not only faw, 
 
 . # but 
 
:e of the 
 ;d, when 
 •emonies 
 rom the 
 that fur- 
 eheld it, 
 J well as 
 will at- 
 proceed- 
 , as well 
 
 uration ; 
 1 ftarted 
 {he went 
 lad near- 
 our ; for 
 nuch ac- 
 orgotteu 
 oard, to 
 adtiise on 
 foon 
 
 and in a 
 rica was 
 
 and the 
 
 vefTel at 
 inly faw, 
 but 
 
 »<♦■ ■■ iii ^ i< 
 
 ■ i 
 
 1' 
 
i: 
 
 ,■.*»*■ 
 
 
 
 s% 
 
 
 EWr'*A /:==i^«»SI^»- 
 
 
 
 
 ^ -.^-. 
 
 cA&iM.dti: 
 
 ^ ,' Heinj^ tie firstVe/sel that tvas ever hutit in 
 
 ^ 
 
 7iiM/XyitJu,/.'tdj/^o. hyJ.Watffr * SonA^\ 
 
ixit*,.- 
 
 ;*i^ 
 
 m. 
 
 ■^ 
 
 m.. 
 
 ■,ift^^ 
 
 •;1fcf^^'" 
 
 
 m. 
 
 ''%^ t 
 
 ^. 
 
 
 'mr'^:^^^ 
 
 giS^^&<: 
 
 ;i? ^> 
 
 fsei that was ever built in that part t^ the Oio^e. 
 
 hi^.'ifij/^o.fyJ.Watt/'ri^Son.Vf'ifi^./'irM^t'/ty. 
 
 / J 
 
 ■r/ 
 
 H.J'oUartt/iutfrf 
 
f 
 
 . , I 
 
 .. 
 
 M 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 ^, -"-J*««c-. 
 
 357 
 
 but 
 
 be faid to have felt the 
 
 operation, i788# 
 as if it had been the work of enchantment ; septembbr* 
 and could only exprefs his aftonifliment by 
 capering about, clapping his hands, and ex- 
 claiming Myty, Myty ; a word the moft ex- 
 preffive in the language of the Sandwich 
 Iflands^to convey wonder, approbation, and 
 delight. The Chinefe carpenters were alfo 
 in an almoft equal degree of aftonifhment, as 
 they had never before been witneffes of fuch 
 a fpe£tacle. Nor were the natives of the 
 Sound, who were prefent at this ceremony, 
 Icfs imprefled by a feries of operations, the 
 fimpleft of which was far above their com- 
 prehenfions. In (hort, — this bufinefs did not 
 fail to raife "s ftlll higher in their good 
 opinion, and to afford them better and more 
 correal notions than they hitherto poffeffed, 
 of the fuperiority of civilized, over favage 
 life. \ 
 
 A commander, officers and crew, were 
 immediately feledled from the Felice and 
 Iphigenia, to navigate the North Weft Ame- 
 rica ; and each of the fliips fent her propor- 
 tion of ftores on fhore, to equip her for fea. 
 
 And here, I truft, it will not be confidered 
 19s an impertinent digreffion, if I exprefs my 
 
 gra- 
 
 *»Sv.. .. 
 
 lA 
 
 ill 
 
 w 
 
 £j "- *% j^ 
 
-*8 VOVAOE8TOTHB 
 
 1788. gratitude to that example of profeflional ri- 
 SirTiMBift. gor and perfcvcraiice, which in my early 
 years were fet before me, on the oppofite fide 
 of this continent, where ability and courage 
 alleviated, in fome meafure, the chagrin of 
 unfuccefsful war. The campaigns in Cana- 
 da owe their only honour to the naval war- 
 fare on the lakes of that country ; and it 
 was my good fortune, when a youth, to be 
 enured in fuch a fchool, to the hardships 
 and difficulties of naval life, and to learn 
 there, that temper and perfeverance muft be 
 added to profeflional knowledge, in order 
 to furmount them. — I am ready to acknow- 
 ledge that, for the little (kill I may poflefs, 
 as a profeflional man, as we.W as the patience 
 1 have exerciled, and the perfeverance which 
 I have exerted, in this or any other voyage, 
 I am indebted to the rigid difcipline which 
 necefTarily arofe from the continual adlion, 
 hazard and confli<St of the fervice in which 
 I was firft engaged.— Some little experience 
 has convinced me that dangers and difficul- 
 ties form the beft fchool of maritime educa- 
 tion ; and he that has been fo employed as 
 to have feen every thing, and fo circum- 
 
 ilanced 
 
 the 
 
 ^^ 
 
NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. 
 
 359 
 
 {lanced as to defpife nothing, cannot fail of 1788. 
 rendering fervice to his country. Septembi*. 
 
 On the 24 th, the Felice being ready forwednefdayu 
 fea, the orders marked N° V. in the Ap- 
 pendix, were given to Captain Douglas, to 
 dire<ft his future proceedings. — The North 
 "Weft America was added to his command, 
 and Tianna once more embarked on board 
 the Iphigetiia, as fhe was dcftined to carry 
 him to the Sandwich Jflands. 
 
 This arrangement was preferred after fome 
 deliberation; for 1 myfelf felt a ftrong in- 
 clination to reftore the amiable chief to his 
 country ; but as I con Id nut remain more 
 than a few days at the Sandwich Iflands, 
 and as the I phi gen ia was deftined to winter 
 there, it was thought a more expedient mea- 
 fure to fend him home in her ; as it would, 
 in a particular manner attach him to her 
 people, and, of courfe, promote their com- 
 fort and fecurity during the time, which 
 would probably occupy feveral months, of 
 their ftay there. Thefe reafons were fuffi- 
 cient for us, on account of the general in- 
 tereft of the expedition, to return Tianna to 
 the Iphigenia ; — but there were alfo other 
 
 reafona 
 
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 Ml 
 
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 rli1l''''r"'lWirtiilWtn 
 
mm 
 
 I- I 
 
 v\ 
 
 960 VOYAOB8 TO THE 
 
 1788. reafons for purfulng this meafure, for his 
 piPTEMflf*. own fake. 
 
 We liad been informed by one of the vef- 
 fels which returned to China from the Sand- 
 wich Iflands, fubfequent to us, that Tianna's 
 brother, Taheo, fove reign of Atooi, was 
 become fo fearful of the power he might ac- 
 quire from us, as to meditate his deflruc- 
 tion ; and that, in all probability, fome 
 fecret attempt would be made on his arrival 
 to cut him off. It was neccfl'ary, therefore, 
 for the prefervation of Tianna, that he (hould 
 be taken back in that vefTel, which, by her 
 long ftay there, might enfure his fafety, till 
 the jealous fit of his tyrant brother was palled 
 away, and a perfect reconciliation had taken 
 place between them. 
 
 We now fent all the ftores we could pof- 
 fibly fpare on board the Iphigenia ; and, in 
 return, received her cargo of furs. We alfo 
 took on board a confiderable quantity of fine 
 fpars, fit for top-mafts, for the Chinefe mar- 
 ket, where they are very much wanted, and 
 of courfe proportionably dear. Indeed, the 
 woods of this part of America are capable 
 th thefe valuable materials 
 
 of fupplying with thefe 
 all the navies of Europe, 
 
 lit 
 
 ^ 
 
 i/ 
 
;T 
 
 U 
 
 NORTH. WEST COAST OF AMERICA. g^] 
 
 In the evening the officers, &c. of the Iphl- 1788. 
 gcnia and the North Weft America came on^ip tembi*. 
 board the Felice to bid us farewell. Tianna 
 was not the laft to Oiew us that mark of 
 his regard ; — and indeed, to do juAice to 
 his amiable difpofition and friendly nature, 
 whenever kindnefs could be (hewn, or ge- 
 nerofity exprefTed, he was among the firft.— 
 Nor could he fay adieu to Noofa, the name 
 \iniverfally given me both in America and 
 the Sandwich Iflands, without a frame al- 
 moft convulfed with agitation, and tears 
 gufhing down his cheeks. — Nor could I, 
 though proceeding to complete my voyage 
 with the falroft hopes of fuccefs, take my 
 leave of that worthy man, and the com* 
 panions of our toilfome enterprife, without 
 emotions that required all my refolution to 
 fupprefs. 
 
 Neither fliould I do juftice to the condu£t 
 of thofe employed in this commercial expe- 
 dition with me, if I did not mention the 
 alacrity which was difplayed by the officers 
 of every denomination, — and, indeed, by all 
 the inferior people,— to acommodate thfem- 
 felves to our peculiar circujnftances. It was 
 neceflary to have feveral changes among the 
 
 Vol. I. A a crews 
 
 > 
 
M 
 
 262 VOYAGES TO THE 
 
 1788. crews of both fliips, in ordef to give a pro* 
 SiPTEMiiR. per complement of officers an J men to the 
 North Weft America, in which the general 
 intereft of the expedition was alone confidered 
 by all ; — and I think it my duty to record 
 on this grateful page, the fenfe I have of, 
 and the advantages their employers received 
 from, their manly and accommodating con^ 
 du£t on the occafion. 
 
 We now hove up the anchor, and, with 
 a ftrong wind blowing from the North Weft, 
 the Felice put to fea. — The crews of the 
 Iphigenia and the North Weft America gave 
 us three cheers at our departure, which awa- 
 kened every echo of Friendly Cove. We 
 returned the fame animating adieu ; — and, 
 before it was dark, had almoft loft light of 
 Nootka Sound. 
 
 It may not be improper juft to mention, 
 that the day after the arrival of the American 
 veflel at Nootka Sound, the difcarded boat- 
 fwain broke from his confinement, and 
 cfcaped, with feveral articles he had ftolen, 
 into the woods, with a view to obtain pro- 
 tection from the Waftiington ; in which, as 
 • we have (ince been informed, he fucceeded. 
 
 For 
 
! ■[ 
 
 NORTH WEST COAST OF AMERICA. ^ 
 
 For the mafter of that veflel, with what 1788. 
 propriety I (hall not pretend to obferve, not Ssf lamin, 
 only fent him provifions to his hiding-place 
 in the woods, but, immediately on the de- 
 parture of our (hips, received him on board 
 his veflfel^ iii which he did duty before tho 
 
 1; 
 
 1 f 
 
 ■' ^ ',. 
 
 PND op VOLUME I, 
 
 I I 
 
 <^,Mlr«^ 4'*J»*''